^%7 =A.Mr.)Vv m^)^::{^ . Marie Canal, have made the voyage one of uninterrupted comfort and pleasure. 5^~ Rooms secured for the round trip (time 8 davs. distance 2,000 miles), by addressing S. & A. TURNER, Cleveland, 0. S. P. BRADY, and CRAGG & BROTHER. ) Agents, Detroit, Michigan. j ADVERTISEMENTS. riNS IiAHSS in ItXZCHiaAN. THE SAINT MARY'S FALLS S|ijl Canal C0mpaitj OTFBR FOR SAIiB THEIR ENTIRE SELECTION OF 550,000 Acres of Pine and Fanning Land IN MICHIGAN. These comprise some of the choicest and most desirable lands in the West, either for settlement, as an investment^ or for lumbering purposes. Unlike a considerable portion of the Pine Lands of the country, these lands are valuable for farming purposes after the timber is cut off. They were selected with great care, with particular reference to the quality and quantity of the Pine, and their locality on the large streams of the State. These lands are more favorably situated in reference to the Chicago Market, than any other Western timber lands. Some of the finest Pine timber is located within 16 miles of Lake Michigan, with good water communication to the Lake, and with but 150 miles of Lake navigation to Chicago. Particular information given, and description of land fur- nished, on application to GEO. S. FROST, Land Agent Land Office St. Marifs Falls Ship Canal Co., ) Detroit, Michigan. 3 RAILROAD AiND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. STEAMBOAT AND EAILEOAD EOUTE FEOM NEW YOEK TO MONTEEAL, Tia LAKE CHAMPLAIN. Stations, etc. Miles. Usual Time. NEW YORK Albany, {Steamer) 145 10 00 Troy, {Steamer) 151 10 30 Saratoga Springs, {Railroad) 182 Whitehall, {Railroad) 223 14 00 Ticonderoga, ( Steamer) . . 247 Burlington, Vt. " ... 300 20 00 Plattsburgh, N. Y. " 325 Rouse's Point, N. Y. " .... 350 24 00 St. John's, Can. {Railroad) . 374 MONTREAL, {Railroad) ... 395 26 00 Note. — This line of travel affords one of the most delightful excursions during warm weather — ^passing through Lake Cham- plain, a most lovely and picturesque sheet of water, surrounded by romantic and mountainous scenery. EAILEOAD EOUTE FEOM NEW TOEK TO MONTEEAL, via EUTLAND AND BUELINGTON, YT. Stations, etc. MUes. Usual Time. NEW YORK Poughkeepsie 75 2 40 Albany 144 5 00 Troy 150 5 15 North Bennington 182 6 30 Rutland 234 8 30 Middlebury 266 10 30 Buni^iNGTO^. {S.toPlattsb'h) 301 11 00 Rouse's Point 356 14 00 St. John's, C. E 379 15 00 MONTREAL 400 16 00 Usual Fare from New York to Montreal, $9 to $10 50. 2 14 KAILKOAD AND STEAMBC AT ROUTES. RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO NIAGARA FALLS AND TORONTO, C. W., LEAVING NEW YORK AT 6 P.M. BY STEAMER. Stations, etc. Miles. Usual Time. NEW YORK Albany, {Steamer) 145 12 00 Schenectady, (Railroad) ... 162 ] 3 00 Utica, " 240 16 00 Rome, " 254 16 30 Syracuse, " 293 18 00 Rochester, ( St. to Toronto) 374 22 45 Lockport, (Railroad) ... 430 25 00 Suspension Bridge, " ... 448 26 00 Lewiston, " ... 452 TORONTO, (Steamer) 494 30 00 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO OSWEGO, TORONTO, ETC., LEAVING NEW YORK AT 6 A.M. BY HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD. Stations, etc. NEW YORK. Miles. usual Tin H. M. Poughkeepsie, Hudson, (Railroad) . . . " . . . . amer 140 m.) . teamer 150 /n.) 75 2 40 116 4 00 Albany, 144 5 00 Schenectady, Utica, 162 .... 6 00 240 8 30 Rome, 254 .... 9 00 Syracuse, Oswego, 293 10 30 328 13 00 Lewiston, (Stt 408 TORONTO, (S 478 27 00 Note. — Passengers by continuing on by Railroad from Syra- cuse, via Rochester and Lockport, will arrive at Suspension Bridge, 448 miles, in sixteen hours after leaving New York, stop at Niagara Falls if desired, and reach Toronto by Rail- road, via Hamilton, C. W., 81 miles farther; making the total distance from New York to Toronto by Railroad, via Suspen- sion Bridge, 529 miles. RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. 15 EAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTE FROM TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD AND 8AUT STE MARIE, MICH. Toronto to Collingwood {Railroad Route), 94 miles. Steamboat Routje. (Collingwood to Saut Ste Marie, IVIich., passing through Geor- gian Bay and North Channel. ) 170 Ports, etc. Miles. Collingwood Cape Rich 30 Cabot's Head 80 Lonely Island 100 Cape Smyth 125 She-ba-wa-nah-ning . . . . 145 Man-i-tou-wah-ning (25 m.) Little Current, Great Manitoulin Is. Clapperton Island 190 Barrie Island 220 Cockburn Island 255 Drummond's Island, Mich. 270 Bruce Mines, C. W. 290 St. Joseph Island 296 Campement D'Ours Is. . . . 302 The Narrows 305 Sugar Island, Mich 315 Nebish Rapids 316 Lake George 320 Church's Landing 326 Garden River Set 330 Saut Ste Marie 340 Steamboat Fare, $8 50. Including meals. Port3, etc. Miles. Saut Ste Marie Sugar Island 4 Garden River Set 10 Church's Landing 14 Lake George 20 Nebish Rapids 24 St. Joseph Island 25 The Narrows 35 Campement D'Ours Is ... . 38 Bruce Mines 50 Drummond's Island, Mich. 70 Cockburn Island, C. W. . . 85 Barrie Island 120 Clapperton Island 150 Little Current, Great Manitoulin Is. Man-i-tou-wah-ning (25 m.) She-ba-wa-nah-ning . . . . 195 Cape Smyth 215 Lonely Island 240 Cabot's Head 260 Cape Rich 310 Collingwood 340 Usual Time, 36 hours. 170 Note. — Landings in Italic. 16 RAILROAD AND STEAMBOAT ROUTES. STEAMBOAT EOUTE FROM SAUT STE MARIE TO SUPERIOR CITT, WIS., PASSING ALONG THE SOUTH SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR. Ports, etc. Miles. Ports, etc. Miles. Saut Ste Marie Superior City Point Iroquois 15 Point de Tour 70 White Fish Point 40 Bayfield 80 Point au Sable 90 LaPointe 83 Pictured Rocks 110 Ontonagon 158 Grand Island 125 EagleRiver 218 Marquette, (Fare, $6.) . . 170 Eagle Harbor 228 Manitou Island 235 Copper Harbor 244 Cupper Harbor 250 Manitou Island 259 Eagle Harbor 266 Marquette 824 Eagle River 276 Grand Island 369 Ontonagon, (Fare, $9.) . 336 Pictured Pvocks 384 La Poi7ite, (Fare, $11) . . 410 Point au Sable 404 Bayfield 414 White Fish Point 454 Point de Tour 424 Point Iroquois 479 Superior CiTy(FareS13) 494 Saut Ste Marie 494 Usual Time from Saut Ste Marie to Superior City, 54 hours, including landings. ROUTE FROM NEW YORK TO THE FALLS OF ST. AlfTHONT, via LAKE SUPERIOR. Stopping Places. Total Miles. Usual Time. New York to Albany, by {Steamboat) . . 145 12 hours. Albany to Niagara Falls, (Railroad) 303 448 1 day. Niagara Falls to Toronto, {R.R. and St.) 46-494 li " Toronto to Collingwood. (Railroad) 94-588 1^ " Collingwood to Saut Ste Marie, ( .S/eowj6oa^) 340-928 3 " Saut Ste Marie to La Pointe, ( Steamboat) 350-1,278 4^ " La Pointe to Superior City, ( SYta^/iJoaf) . 84-1,362 5' " Superior City to Falls St. Croix, (Portage) 120-1,482 8 " Falls St Croix to Stillwater, (S^eamioaO 30-1,512 Stillwater to St. Paul, ( Stage) 18-1,530 St. Paul to Falls of St. Anthony, (Stage) 8-1,538 9 " From the Falls of St. Anthony to Dubuque 326 miles. " Dubuque to St. Louis, (Steamboat) 474 " Total 800 miles. ATRIP THEOUGH THE LAKES OF NORTH AMERICA RAILEOAD ROUTE ¥Vm TORONTO TO COLLIXG- WOOD, AND TRIP AROUND LAKE SIMrO''. After passing over the delightful and usually smooth waters of Lake On- tario, the Tourist, on ap- proaching Toronto, either from Cape Vincent, Os- wego, Rochester, Buffalo, or the Falls of Niagara, usually experiences sensations which incite him to further travel and enjoyment. From thia place the tourist can proceed direct to IMontreal and Quebec, by railroad or steamer, or to Hamilton and Detroit on the west — while the Collingwood route extends north through a beautiful section of country. 18 TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. On landing at Toronto from American ports, it is usual for the custom-house officers to question passengers in regard to the contents of their baggage, which if it consists of nothing but common wearing apparel, is passed without further delay, and tlie porters take charge of the same, delivering the articles as directed. All persons, however, taking into Canada manufac- tured goods, whether subject to pay duty or otherwise, are ex- pected to enter the same at the custom-house. The hotels are principally situated on Front Street, facing the bay. Church Street, or King Street, the latter being the principal promenade, or Broadway, of Toronto. Yonge Street is another principal thoroughfare, extending from the Espla- nade, or waters edge, for many miles into the interior, affording a delightful drive in pleasant weather. The attractions of this thriving city, in connection with the beautiful bay and harbor, are well worthy the attention of the tourist. For a further de- scription of Toronto, see page 240. The railroads diverging from Toronto are the Ontario, Si7n- coe and Huron Railroad, extending north to Collingwood, 94 miles ; the Grand Trunk Railnay, extending northeast to Montreal and Quebec, and west through Guelph to Port Sarnia, situated at the foot of Lake Huron, and the Hamilton and Toronto Branch of the Great Western Railway of Canada, run- ning from Clifton at the Suspension Bridge, to Hamilton, and thence through to Windsor, on the Detroit River. These rail- roads, in connection with the steamers, render Toronto a great thoroughfare and mart of commerce. It now takes about thirty hours to reach Toronto from New York ; five hours from Buffalo, and only twelve hours from Montreal, since the com- pletion of the Grand Trunk Railway : the favorite steamboat route down the St. Lawrence River consumes about twice as much time. In four hours more the traveler can be landed at ? iiugwood, at the head of Georgian Bay, from whence steam- ers leave almost daily, during the season of navigation, for Mackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, Saut Ste Marie, and other ports uu the Upper Lakes. TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. 19 Passenger trains leave Toronto morning and afternoon for Colling-woocl, etc., starting from the depot near the corner of Front and Bay Streets. The first objects of interest passed are the Parliament House, University Building, Lunatic Asylum, the Barracks, and Old Fort,* the latter being situated near the water's edge, for the protection of the bay and harbor. The Grand Trunk Kailway also runs for two or three miles parallel with the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad. The farming land through which the latter road runs is very pro- ductive, being in part heavily timbered with maple, birch, beech, oak, elm, pine, and, hemlock. For many miles there seems to have been a studied effort to avoid the villages and thriving settlements lying west of Toronto on Yonge Street road. Thornhill Station, 14 miles from Toronto, is located four miles west from the village, which is situated on Yonge Street. Here are extensive flour ing-mills, propelled by water-power de- rived from the river Don, flowing into Toronto Bay. The highest summit of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Kail- road, being 700 feet above Lake Ontario, and 226 feet above the level of Lake Simcoe, is passed about 25 miles north of Toronto. The highest grade ascending is sixty feet to the mile. Aurora, 29 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated on Yonge Street, where the morning trains usually meet on their way to and from Collingwood. New Market, 34 miles from Toronto, is an old and thriving town, surrounded by a fine section of country. Here are sev- eral mills and other manufacturing establishments, situated on a stream which passes through the village, flowing into Lake Simcoe on the north. Fruit of different kinds, of fine quality, as well as grain, is raised in large quantities in this vicinity. Holland Landing, 38 miles north of Toronto by railroad, is * The Old Garrison, as it is now called, is situated on the lake sho'e, commanding the entrance to the harbor. On the capture of Tor6n/'', ^ lormerly called Little York, by the American army in 1S13, the magazine , cf the fort was fired by the British on their retreat, causing the death of General Pike, the American commander, and many other valuable men. Long may it be before the scourge of war again desolates the frontier bor- dering the waters of the lakes or the St. Lawrence Kiver. 20 TORONTO TO COLLINGWOCD, ETC. advantageoiisly situated on Holland River, •which empties into Lake Simcoe. It contains an Episcopal, Presbyterian, and Methodist church ; steam and water power, grist and saw mills, an extensive tannery, a foundry, and about 1,500 inhabit- ants. The railway here again intersects Yonge Street, studded with fine dwellings, orchards, and farms, all the way through from Toronto, 36 miles, bearing evidence of wealth, intelligence, and comfort, not surpassed by any other section of Canada. Bradford, 42 miles from Toronto, is a small village situated near Lake Simcoe. The afternoon train of cars meets at this station on its way to and from Toronto. Large quantities of wheat and other farming products are annually sent from this place to Toronto, and other markets. Bell Evvart, 53 miles from Toronto, is situated on Cook's Bay, lying at the south end of Lake Simcoe. Here are a con- venient steamboat landing, several stores and lumber yards, and a population of some 300 or 400 inhabitants. The stumps and decayed trees by which it is surrounded indicate that it is of recent origin, yet still the town-lots are held at a high price, showing that speculation is not entirely confined to the Yankees, as the Americans are here usually called. During the summer of 1856 the author accepted an invita- tion to visit LaJte Simcoe, and take a trip over its lovely waters, now plowed by one of the most comfortable steamers, named the J. C. Morrison, in honor of the President of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad. This pioneer work of Upper Canada was first advocated and commenced through the untir- ing zeal of an enterprising citizen of Toronto, now entirely dis- connected with its present management. The running of the trains on the above road, and the steamer on the lake, is so arranged that pleasure travelers can leave Toronto in the morning, enjoy a most delightful sail around Lake Simcoe, and return to Toronto in the evening, or proceed onward toward Collingwood, reaching the latter place in ample time for the steamer for the Saut Ste Marie, which usually leaves soon after the arrival of the evening train. LAKE SIMCOE. 21 beautiful steamer J. C. Morrison- daily leaves Bell Ewart, on the arrival of the moi^ning train from Toronto, making a trip around Lake SiMCOE, a most lovely and pure sheet of water, elevated 474 feet above Lake Ontario and 134 feet above Lake Huron. It is about 40 miles long from north to south, and 25 miles wide, embosoming several picturesque islands, the beauties of which are very much height- ened by the effects of light and shade during the summer and autumn months. This romantic lake is elevated above Lake Superior about 100 feet; its surplus waters running through the Severn River into Georgian Bay or Lake Huron. On leaving the landing in Cook's Bay, the steamer usually runs between Bird and Snake Islands, both being owned and inhabited by Indians of the Mohawk tribe, who here lead an idle life, neglecting the noble pursuit of agriculture for the less certain employment of fishing and hunting. Jacksox's Point, twelve miles from Bell Ewart, is the first landing usually made on the upward trip. This is a pictu- resque spot, as yet unimproved, although affording a con- venient steamboat landing. Georgiana Island, eight miles farther, is next passed, lying on the east, near the main shore. This is a large and fertile island, at present unimproved. Beaverton, 29 miles from Bell Ewart and 21 miles distant from Orillia, is a flourishing village, containing about 1.000 in- habitants. Here is a long pier and good steamboat landing. A railroad, to be built, extending from Port Hope, lying on the north shore of Lake Ontario, to Lake Simcoe, will terminate at 22 LAKE SIMCOE Beaverton, which is surrounded by a fine section of agricultural lands, producing wheat and other kinds of grain of good quality. Thora Island is next passed on the west, and Point Mora on the right, running in a N.W. direction toward the foot of the lake, which here increases in beauty. Grape Island, lying near the foot of the lake, is a beautiful small uninhabited island ; and near by on the west lies Chief Island, occupied by Indians. Here the islands and headlands appear to great advantage, being clothed with rich foliage, varied in tint by every passing cloud. Atherly, 18 nailes from Beaverton, is a steamboat landing and small settlement at the foot of Lake Simcoe. Half a mile below Atherly the steamer passes through a narrow channel and draw-bridge into Lake Couchiching, or Severn River, here some three or four miles wide, containing several beautiful small islands, where may usually be seen the Indians in bark canoes gliding from island to island, seeming in the distance to resemble fairies of by-gone days. The islands may be thus described : " All the fairy crowds Of islands, which together lie, As quietly as the spots of sky, Among the evening clouds." Orillia, Simcoe Co., C. W,, is pleasantly situated three miles beyond Atherly by steamboat route. This is a summer resort for invalids and seekers of pleasure. The village con- tains two churches, three hotels, and several boarding-houses for the accommodation of visitors. Population about 800. This place is destined no doubt to become a favorite and fashion- able resort, being easily reached from Toronto or Collingwood. Rama is the name of an Indian village situated across the lake from Orillia, about four miles distant. The Indians may here be seen engaged in fishing, or paddling from place to place, many of them leading a roving and idle life, no doubt being destined soon to fade away as the falling leaf of autumn. The Rapids or Falls commence in the Severn River some seven or eight miles below Orillia, which stream empties into TORONTO TO COLLINGWOOD, ETC. 23 the Georgian Bay near Penetanguishene, after a succession of rapids and falls of 134 feet descent. In the lake and river are to be found good fishing, and game of different kinds, affording ample amusement to the angler and sportsman. On returning from Orillia, the steamer runs in a southerly direction along the west shore of the lake, presenting a succes- sion of picturesque headlands, and most beautiful water scenery. Hawkstone, 15 miles south of Orillia, is a new settlement, where buildings are being erected for the accommodation of summer visitors. On leaving Hawkstone the steamer runs direct for Bell Ewart, passing the mouth of Kempenfeldt Bay, at the head of which lies the town of Barrie. Big Bay Point, eight miles from Hawkstone, is next passed, and the steamer soon enters Cook's Bay, on which is situated Bell Ewart, 33 miles south of Orillia. The steamer usually arrives at 5^ p.m., in time to take the afternoon cars for CoUingwood or Toronto, thus affording the pleasure traveler an opportunity to visit one of the most beautiful lakes of Canada. At Lefroy, one mile from Bell Ewart by branch road, and 52 miles from Toronto, the journey by railroad is resumed. Barrie Station, 63 miles from Toronto and 31 miles from CoUingwood, is situated on Kempenfeldt Bay, directly opposite the town of Barrie, about one mile distant, which is reached by a road running round the head of the bay, affording a fine view of the town and surrounding country. Barrie, the capital of Simcoe Co., is delightfully situated on the northwest shore of Kempenfeldt Bay of Lake Simcoe. Besides the county buildings there is a handsome market-house, an Episcopal, Presbyterian, Methodist, and Roman Catholic church ; also, two or three well-kept hotels. The village con- tains about 1,500 inhabitants, being surrounded by a fine agri- cultural country. A stage road runs from Barrie to Penetan- guishene, 32 miles ; also, to Orillia, at the foot of the lake. After leaving Barrie Station, the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad runs in a northwest direction to CoUingwood, passing 24 TORONTO TO t ">LLINGWOOD, ETC. through a level section of country, abounding in lumber of dif- ferent kinds ; there being several large lumber establishments on the line of the road. CoLLi.vGwooD, 94 miles north from Toronto, is most advanta- geously situated near the head of Nottawassaga Bay, an inden- tation of Georgian Bay. The town, although commenced in 1854, at the time of the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huron Railroad, now contains (1857) about 2,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing. The surprising growth is mainly owing to its being the northern terminus of the railway which connects the Georgian Bay with Lake Ontario at Toronto. Great numbers of travelers and emigrants are at this point transferred to magnificent steamers, bound for Mackinac, Green Bay, Chicago, and the Great West, as well as to the Saut Ste Marie and Lake Superior. Here are a long pier, 800 feet in length ; a breakwater, and light-house ; several large stores and storehouses; four hotels, and two or three churches in the course of erection. The steamers leaving Collingwood for Mackinac and Chicago, running along the west shore of Lake Michigan, are of a large class, affording good accommodations for pleasure travelers. A steamer leaves weekly for Green Bay. sometimes proceeding to the Saut Ste Marie and into Lake Superior. The steamer Canadicm runs every day to Owen's Sound, 50 miles distant; and the steamer Collingwood runs weekly to Bruce Mines and the Saut Ste Marie, affording a delightful steamboat excursion. Immense quantities of fish are taken in the waters of Notta- wassaga Bay, being principally cai'ried to the Toronto market. The whole north shore of the Georgian Bay abounds in white fish, salmon, trout, maskalonge, and other fish of fine quality, affording pi-ofitable employment to the Canadians and Indians. " Some idea of the value and extent of the fishing operations promiscuously pursued in Nottawassaga Bay may be formed from the knowledge that the average daily take exceeds one thousand fish, weighing from forty pounds down to one pound. At this rate, that of the season would not fall short of £40,000. ' At the mouth of the Nottawassaga River the white fish are netted in perfect shoals throughout the spawning season. Most of the larger kinds of trout spawn about the islands, \ipon beds of calcareous rock, over which a shifting drift of sand or gravel passes by the action of the waves, where the water is shallow ; and from being exposed to the sun, the temperature of the lake is warmer at these localities than elsewhere. Thither the fishermen resort, and net the fish, vapid and placid as they are, in fabulous amounts." GEORGIAN BAT CANAL. 25 THE TOKONTO AND GEOEGIAN BAT CANAL. This is a new and noble project, which is now interesting the citizens of Upper Canada, as well as of the United States: Toronto and Oswego being alike interested in (Connection with the far North and West. The proposed canal will be 80 miles long, extending from Nottawassaga Bay through the valley of the Nottawassaga and Humber rivers to Toronto, advantage- ously situated on the north shore of Lake Ontario. The sum- mit is 650 feet above the waters of Lake Ontario, requiring a succession of locks in the ascent and descent to Georgian Bay, the latter descent being only 310 feet — Lake Ontario lying 340 feet below Lake Huron, or Georgian Bay. {^Extract from the Toeonto Globe, of September, 1856.) " The geographical position of the projected canal, as it re- gards the Atlantic sea-board and those cities of the United States, each now striving to grasp the trade and traffic of the great West (and as it regards the great West itself, the northwest and the north), would give to the city of Toronto the power to make all those vast countries, in a measure, tributary to her. Their productions would seek the sea-board through your canal, and their importations would likewise pay their tribute in return." The writer adds : " He Avished only to indulge in a few re- marks, and to call attention, not to the United States alone, but to the British Possessions in America, which ere long would also be pouring its flood of trade and traffic through the pro- posed canal. V^estward, we possess vast and fertile countries, adapted to all the pursuits of agricultural life — countries sus- ceptible of the highest cultivation and improvement. Between Lake Superior and the Lake of the Woods (above the 49th de- gree of N. lat.) we possess a country of this description, in soil and character inferior to no part of Minnesota, and bordering upon this territory lies the valley of the Assiniboine, or the Red River country, as it is sometimes called. As a wheat-gi^owing country it will rival Canada. It does so now in soil and climate. In order to give you some idea of the extent of that country, or, perhaps I should say, portion of Western Canada, I will call your attention to a few facts. All Canada, as now usually designated, not in connection with what is termed Hudson Bay Territories, contains about 350,000 square miles. The valley of the Assiniboine contains about as many square miles, and is intersected in every direction by navigable rivers. Beyond this, again, lies the magnificent valley of the Saskatchawan 26 GEORGIAN BAY CA.^^. It contains about 400,000 square miles, larger again . Canada. " Over the richest prairie lands, loaded carts now pass in any direction for hundreds of miles, to the foot of the Rocky Moun- tains. In its present wild and uncultivated state it affords sustenance to immense herds of wild cattle. What would it do if cultivated by the hand of man ? The future products of these immense countries must seek the sea-board, and all the canals and railroads which can be constructed will scarce suffice to afford facilities for the products of the West, He wished to call their attention also to another source, whence a trade would arise, and contribute to swell the traffic along the canal. Hud- son Bay would give to Canada a sea-coast of 3,000 miles. No maritime power has ever possessed so great a nursery for a mer- cantile navy as this. It abounds with whales, and every kind of fish ; and, strange as it may appear, that great sea lies, as it Avoro, in the center of Canada. From the proposed terminus of the canal it is about 650 miles, 350 miles of which is a naviga- tion capable of bearing ships of any burden ; from Lake Supe- rior to Hudson Bay is 300 miles. If the route between Lake Superior and Hudson Bay was open and improved, they would speedily establish fisheries along the coasts of that bay. The oil and fish now consumed in those states is immense, and they will be furnished them from Hudson Bay cheaper and more speedily than from the source they now receive them. A trade like tins will sooner or later spring up, and create along Hud- son Bay an immense demand for all those manufactures and productions which the United States can supply, and these must find their way through their canal. A large trade at this moment is had along that bay.* 'ITie Hudson Bay Company, who have seven forts there, and one above York Factory, re- ceive annual supplies to the amount of from £70,000 to £90.000, Many of these goods, perhaps, are of that description which Toronto merchants could supply with advantage. To the traffic which must exist all along the shores of Lakes Huron and Su- perior I make no allusion. It is evident to all that it must be tributary to the canal. It may be said that all that I have alluded to as regards the traffic to arise from our country is far in prospective, but there is no reason why we should not ]Jro- gress and advance westward as do the United States." * " The Hudson Bay Company have long endeavored by rewards and arguments to excite an exportation of tallow, hides, wool, etc., to Eng- land ; but the bulky nature of the exports, the long and dangerous navi- gation to Hudson Bay, and the habits of the half-breed race, who form the mass of the people, and generally prefer chasing the buffalo to agriculture or regular industry, have rendered their efforts ineffectual."— E. Mont- OOUE&Y Mabtin. TRIP FROM ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN .AF. Extract from the Canapian Tourist. From Orillia, situated near the foot of Lake Simcoe, the author with his companions, four in number, passed in two birch canoes down the Severn, a distance of about 60 miles, to Georgian Bay, and thence to Collingwood by steamer. The river is navigable only for canoes, and, except by sportsmen, is as yet rarely visited. " In our eyes, its solitary character and the romantic scenery on its banks were its principal attractions. Having reduced our luggage to the smallest possible dimensions, and put our fishing-tackle into good order, it only remained for us to make ourselves comfortable by spreading a quantity of plucked fern and juniper branches at the bottom of our canoes. We re- reclined sumptuously in one, with about as much accommoda- tion as a ship's hammock Avould afford two moderately stout individuals. However, as we were less likely to be upset by being so closely jammed together that we could scarcely move, we became reconciled to our position between Bonaquum (' Thunderbolt'), who knelt at the bows and paddled, and his brother Kabeshquum (' Triumphant'), who steered. The other canoe contained Captain A , whose experience in such expe- ditions, and knowledge of Indian character and language, were most valuable — and liabehAvum (' Snow-Storm'), whose son, as an exemplification of the effect of civilization over the elements, called himself simply John Storm. As the wind was fair, we rigged our blankets upon sticks cut for the purpose; and, with all sail set, we glided rapidly on (through the lovely waters of Lake Couchiching) , sometimes threading our way through nar- roAv channels, past low- wooded islands, vmtil in about two hours we found ourselves upon the green waters of the Severn. " The scenery at the point oi debouchure was very beautiful. ^Masses of rich variegated foliage clothed the banks, and bent over until the river rippled among the leaves. Often dark shadows reached across it, or were checkered by sunbeams glancing through the branches upon the clear and singularly light-colored water. As we proceeded, we exchanged for the calm surface of the lake, and the islands which seemed to rest on its bosom, rock and rapid, until at last the torrent became too tumultuous for our frail canoes. Meantime, we had not been engaged only in enjoying the beauties of nature, Ave had 28 ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. adopted the usual mode of trolling in this part of the world, with copper spoons, which, twisting rapidly through the water, formed a bright and attractive bait ; so that, upon arriving at the first portage, we congratulated ourselves upon the prospect of lunching olf half-a-dozen black bass weighing from two to five pounds each ; while the Indians were engaged in culinary preparations. " We were up before daylight on the following morning, and, after a good fish brealifast, were again on our way. I had scarcely thrown my troUing-line, when it was nearly jerked out of my hand by a most unexpected and violent tug. A bark canoe is not the most convenient place from which to play a large fish ; and, in my inexperienced eagerness, I hauled away pretty steaflily, bringing to the surface with some difSculty a tine maskalonge, weighing at least twenty-five pounds. He came splashing and plunging up to the side of the canoe, and I had lifted him out of water, when the hook gave way, and I lost as fine a fish as I ever had at the end of a line. However, I was consoled soon after by taking some fine pickerel, weigh- ing from five to eight pounds each; and, before luncheon, hooked another maskalonge, when my companion, profiting by experience, was ready Avith his gaff-hook, and jerked him most scientifically into the canoe, much to the delight of the Indians. Though not so large as the first, he was a respectable fish, weighing about eighteen pounds. The scenery in the place was bold and rock}', the banks often lofty and precipitous, and the current alwaj's strong, with an occasional rapid. We lunched at a portage, which we were obliged to make in order to avoid the falls of the Severn, which are here about twenty- five feet in height, and surrounded by fine scenery. There are rapids above and below the falls, so that the difi"erence of level between the upper and lower banks of the portage is not less than fifty feet." We regret that we can not make room for more extracts from these interesting " Notes on Canada and the Northwest States," but we do the next best thing by recommending the articles themselves to the perusal of our readers. The above trip affords a favorable opportunity to visit Pcne- tanguishene and the " Million Islands" of Georgian Bay. Pexetanguishejve, C. W., 50 miles north of Collingwood by steamboat route, situated on a lovely and secure bay, is an old and very important settlement, comprising an Episcopal and Koman Catholic church, two hotels, a custom-house, seve- ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. 29 ral stores and storehouses, and has about 500 inhabitants. In the immediate vicinity is a naval and military depot and bar- racks, established by the British government. The natural beauties of the bay and harbor, combined with the picturesque scenery of the shores, make up a picture of rare beauty. Here may be seen the native Indian, the half-breed, and the Canadian voyageur, with the full-blooded Englishman or Scotchman, forming one community. This place, being near the mouth of the river Severn, and contiguous to the numberless islands of Georgian Bay, is no doubt destined to become a favorite resort for the angler and sportsman, as well as the invalid and seeker of pleasure. Christiaiv Island, lying about 25 miles from Penetangui- shene, and 25 miles N. E. of Cape Rich, is a large and fertile island, which was early settled by the Jesuits. There are sev- eral others passed north of Christian Island, of great beauty, while still farther northwest are encountered innumerable islands and islets, forming labyrinths, and secluded passages and coves as yet almost unknown to the white man, extending westward for upward of one hundred miles. ISLANDS OX NOETH SHOEE, GEORGIAN BAT. Extract from Letters froin the I^orth and Lake Huron. She-ba-wa-nah-otng, Georgian Bat, C. TV., | August \()^\^'b^. \ " Amoxg the regions of the continent interesting to the traveler, and which are not frequently visited, is the north shore of Georgian Bay. Leaving Penetanguishene we crossed to the mouth of the river Mushkoss, a distance of about eighteen miles. From this place we proceeded up the shore in a small l)oat, making daily such journeys as suited, and lingering when- ever we found an interest to repay. " The Mushkoss is one of the lumber points on the bay. It is approached through a strip of numerous islands seven miles in width, and it is the first inhabited place on the shore above the mouth of the Severn. Here, as at the Severn, the only thing to attract a habitation is the lumber, which only receives attention. But one almost wonders, when he sees the country. 30 ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. ■svliere the lumber comes from, for the rock here again appears, and holds a dominion forever beyond the hopes of man to see subdued. The rock is throughout the countr3^ It stands boldly along the shore, and forms the islands, sustains the water, and its bare surface appears everywhere. Yet the country has a vegetation which covers it with verdure. Bushes, wild flowers, and pine spring up everywhere, where a little earth has drifted and found a lodgment. Pine is almost the only timber, and we daily saw it growing in places so barren, that it seemed as if no vegetation could be sustained either in nutrition or uprightness of position. Some dwarfed oaks may be seen, and, perhaps, occasionally some birch. The pine which is sawed into lumber is cut a distance back, along the banks of the river, and is then drifted down. It is inferior in size to that of more southern regions, and, we believe, by no means has so good an average soundness of quality. " The Mushkoss is a stream of moderate size, but sends a large division to the bay, to the westward, which diverges many miles above. The river, in the interior country, expands into lakes or pools, some of which are large and filled with numer- ous islands. This, with a dark-colored water, is characteristic of many of the streams which come down from the north. Even small streams sometimes form a small chain of numerous lakes, extending a great distance back. It is up these streams and around these lakes that many of the Indians find their hunting-grounds for the winter ; sometimes going almost to the divide, beyond which the waters flow into Hudson Bay. They go in the fall, and return in the spring with furs, which fall into the hands of the Hudson Bay Company, or those of the various traders along the coast, and are paid for in goods at a large profit. " Proceeding westward the traveler encounters a maze of innumerable islands, which commences at the eastern extremity of the bay, and continues in an almost unbroken stretch for one hundred miles and upward. There are myriads of them, and we have counted over fifty from a single stand-point. They are mostly small, although some of them are of large size. One may wander industriously amid them for months, and find new scenes to gladden his eyes every day, for the chain has a breadth of many miles. Countless channels run between them, many of which are sufficiently deep and clear for the largest vessels of the lakes. There are numerous small bays, and the chan- nels sometimes have a considerable width ; and, now and then, one runs a distance of ten and twenty miles with scarcely an interruption. It is almost impossible to tell when you approach the mainland. One may think himself upon it when he is miles away, or may pursue some lagoon projecting deep into it, when ORILLIA TO GEORGIAN BAY. 31 he supposes himself treading on an island channel, and at last be obliged to return. " One is earnestly told before he starts, by those who have been on this shore, that if he w jiild take his course through the islands, he must have a guide ; and certainly without, the stranger can not be sure of great expedition. We were for- tunate enough to have Bayfield's chart along, which we found a groat help, although no attempt is, or could successfully be, made to chart in detail the interminable labyrinth of islands. " The better way for one coasting thus is to take a course through the outer edge of the islands, keeping the broad waters in view. A certain guide and a cool, bracing atmosphere are thus obtained, while the splendor of its scenery is almost un- rivaled. Along the islands and next to the bay are numerous anil wide shoals. The rock floor, sometimes level and again broken, can often be seen through the clear water for a long distance. To the west the islands grow less numerous and the water between them wider, until you approach She-ba-wa-nah- ning, when the chain draws to a close. Islands after this are numerous, but may moscly be traced upon the chart. The islands have the same vegetation and the same physical con- formation as the mainland. " The course of the shore seems much nearer north and west, until you arrive at the French River, when it runs nearly west. The rock is continuous the whole distance. It is chiefly gran- ite, but sandstone appears in considerable quantity this side of the French River. The rock attains at times considerable height and boldness, and as you near She-ba-wa-nah-ning. it sometimes rises into grandeur. Here a mountain chain hangs along the coast, standing up against the sky like a large blue cloud. Between this and the water are a few acres of tillable land, yet none is under cultivation save a very little which is mowed. Indeed, farming is a business which is not thought of on the north side Georgian Bay, even by the few white inhabitants scat- tered there. There may be a patch of a few acres now and then along the shore which might be cultivated, but we saw scarcely any. But there are probably some sections where a little may be found, for the Indians find somewhere here the maple for the manufacture of sugar. They told us that it is near the mouth of French River, on the east side, and that they there raise some potatoes and corn. But we believe that the shore can never be even sparingly settled. At some points there may be tillable lands a considerable distance back. Yet there are no indications of it along the shore. A large grant of land, we are informed, has been obtained to construct a rail- road from the Ottawa to some point near the mouth of the French River on the bay 32 COLLINGWOOD 10 THE SAUT STE MARIE. " The timber observed as far as She-ba-wa-nali-ning is almost entirely pine. One is almost sui^rised at the constancy of it. Some spruce, tamarac, birch, and poplar are seen, however, and probably cedar may be found also. The juniper shrub is abundant, and often very productive. There arc exhaustless quantities of whortleberries, and as fine as the world anywhere produces. We hardly landed at a place where they were not plenty. Wild, red cherries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, blackberries, and cranberries are frequently met with in con- siderable quantities. Such is the general character of the north shore, and the islands of Georgian Bay and their pro- ductions, up to She-ba-wa-nah-ning, which is situated nearly mid-way on the northern shore of the waters of Lake Huron." TRIP FROM COLLIXGWOOD TO THE S^UT STE MARIE, THEOUGH GEOEGIAN BAY AND NOETH CHANNEL. This is a new and highly interesting steamboat excursion, brought into notice by the completion of the Ontario, Simcoe and Huion Railroad, extending from Toronto to CoUingwood, at the southern extremity of Georgian Bay. NoTTAWAssAGA Bay, the southem termination of Georgian Bay, is a large expanse of water bounded by Cape Rich on the west and Christian Island on the east, each being distant about 30 miles from Collingwood, At the south end of the bay lies a small group of islands called the Hen and Chickens. On leaving Collingwood for Bruce Mines and the Saut Ste Marie, the steamer usually runs direct across Georgian Bay to Lonely Island, passing Cabot's Head to the right, and the pas- sage leading into the broad waters of Lake Huron, which is the route pursued by the steamers in the voyage to Mackinac, Green Bay, and Chicago. During the summer months the trip from Collingwood to Mackinac and Chicago affords a de- lightful excursion. Owen's Sound, or Sydenham, 50 miles west of Collingwood, although off the direct route to the Saut Ste Marie, is well worthy of a passing notice. Here is a thriving settlement, surrounded by a fertile section of country, and containing about 2,500 inhabitants. A steamer runs daily from Collingwood to this place, which will, no doubt, soon be reached by railroad. Lonely Island, situated about 100 miles west of Colling- wood and 20 miles east of the Great Manitoulin Islands, is a large body of land mostly covered with a dense forest, and un- inhabited, except by a few fishermen, who resort here at cer- tain seasons of the year for the purpose of taking fish of different kinds. The steamer usually passes this island on its north side, steering for Cape Smyth, a bold promontory jutting 34 COLLINUIVUOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. out from tlie Great Manitoiriin, and distant from Lonely Island about 25 miles. Squaw Island and Papoose Island are seen on the north- ea-st, while farther inland are the Fox Islands, being the com- mencement on the west of the innumerable islands which abound along the north shore of Georgian Bay. La Cloche Mountains, rising about 2,000 feet above the sea, are next seen in the distance, toward the north; these, combined with the wild scenery of the islands and headlands, form a grand panoramic view, enjoyed from the deck of the passing steamer. Smyth's Lay is passed on the west, some eight or ten miles distant. At the head of this bay, on the Great Manitoulin Is- land, is situated a village of Indians, and a Jesuit's mission, called We-qua-me-kong. These aborigines are noted for their industry, raising wheat, corn, oats, and potatoes in large quan- tities. This part of the island is very fertile, and the climate is healthy. She-ba-wa-nah-ning, signifying, in the Indian dialect, " Here is a channel" is a most charming spot, 40 miles dis- tant from Lonely Island, hemmed in by mountains on the north, and a high rocky island on the south. It is situated on the north side of a narrow channel, about half a mile in length, which has a great depth of water. Here is a convenient steam- boat landing, a church, a store, and some ten or twelve dwel- lings, inhabited by Canadians and half-breeds. Indians as- semble here often in considerable numbers, to sell their fish and furs, presenting with their canoes and dogs a very gro- tesque appearance. One resident at this landing usually attracts much attention — a n-ible dog, of the color of cream. No sooner does the steamer's bell ring, than this animal rushes to the wharf, sometimes assisting to secure the rope that is thrown ashore; the next move he makes is to board the vessel, as though he was a custom-house office:' ; but on one occasion, in his eager- ness to get into the kitchen, h? fell overboard; nothing daunted, he swam to the shore, and thjn again boarding the vessel, sue- COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT S'l E MARIE. 35 ceeclecl in his desire to fill Lis stomach, sbowing the instinct which prompts many a biped office-seeker. On leaving She-ba-Ava-nah-ning and proceeding westward, a most beautiful bay is passed, studded with islands — and mountains upward of 1,000 feet in height, presenting a rocky and sterile appearance, forming an appropriate background to the view— thence is passed Badgley and Heywood islands, the latter lying oflf Heywood Sound, situated on the north side of the Great Manitoulin. Ma.v-i-tou-wah-:ning, 25 miles northwest of She-ba-wa- nah-ning, is handsomely situated at the head of Heywood Sound, It is an Indian settlement, and also a government agency, being the place annually selected to distribute the Indian annuities. Little Current, 25 miles west of She-ba-wa-nah-ning, is another interesting landing on the north shore of the Great Man- itoulin, opposite La Cloche Island. Here the main channel is narrow, with a current usually running at the rate of five or six knots an hour, being much aifected by the winds. The steamer stops at this landing for an hour or upward, receiving a supply of wood, it being furnished by an intelligent Indian or half- breed, who resides at this place with his family. Indians are often seen here in considerable numbers. They are reported to be indolent and harmless, too often neglecting the cultivation of the soil for the more uncertain pursuits of fishing and hunt- ing, although a considerable large clearing is to be seen indif- ferently cultivated. Clapper ton Island and other islands of less magnitude are passed in the JVorth Channel, which is a large body of water about 120 miles long and 25 miles wide. On the north shore is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, which may be seen from the deck of the passing steamer. CocKBURN Island, 85 miles west of Little Current, lies directly west of the Great Manitoulin, from which it is separated by a narrow channel. Ic is a large island, somewhat elevated, but uninhabited, except by Indians. 36 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. Drummo?«^d Island, 15 miles farther -westward, belongs to the United States, being attached to the State of Michigan This is another large body of land, being low, and as yet mostly uninhabited. The next island approached before landing at Bruce Mines is St, Joseph Island, being a large and fertile body of land, with some few settlers. BitucE Mines Village, C ^Y., is situated on the north shore of Lake Huron, or the " North Channel," as it is here called, distant 290 miles from Collingwood, and 50 from the Saut Ste Marie. Here are a Methodist chapel, a public-house, and a store and storehouse belonging to the Montreal Copper jMining Company, besides extensive buildings used for crushing ore and preparing it for the market ; about 75 dwellings and 600 inhabitants. The copper ore, after being crushed by power- ful machinery propelled by steam, is put into puddling troughs and washed by water, so as to obtain about 20 per cent, pure copper. In this state it is shipped to the United States and England, bringing about .s80 per ton. It then has to go through an extensive smelting process, in order to obtain the pure metal. The mines are situated in the immediate vicinity of the village, there being ten openings or shafts from which the ore is ob- tained in its crude state. IIorse-po"V^r is mostly used to ele- vate the ore ; the whims are above ground, attached to which are ropes and buckets. This mine gives employment to about 300 workmen. The capital stock of the company amounts to $600,000. The WeUi7igton Mine, about one mile distant, is also owned by the Montreal Mining Company, but is leased and worked by an English company. This mine, at the present time, is more productive than the Bruce Mines. The Lake Superior Journal gives the following description of the Bruce Mine, from which is produced a copper ore differ- ing from that which is yielded by other mines of that peninsula. " Ten years ago this mine was opened, and large sums ex- pended for machinery, which proved useless, but it is now un- COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. 37 der new management, and promises to yield profitably. Twelve shafts have been opened, one of which has been carried down some 330 feet. Some 200 or 300 men are employed, all from the European mines. Some of the ores are very beautiful to the eye, resembling fine gold. After being taken out of the shaft, they are taken upon a rail-track to the crushing-house, where they are passed between large iron rollers, and sifted till only a fine powder remains ; from thence to the ' jigger works,' where they are shaken in water till much of the earthy matter is washed away, after which it is piled in the yard ready for shipment, having more the appearance of mud than of copper. It is now mostly shipped to Swansea, in Wales, for smelting. Two years since 1,500 tons were shipped to Baltimore a,nd Buf- falo to be smelted." On resuming the voyage after leaving Bruce Mines, the steamer runs along St. Joseph Island through a beautiful sheet of water, in which are embosomed some few islands near the main shore. Campement D'Ours is an island passed on the left, lying contiguous to St. Joseph Island. Here are encountered several small rocky islands, forming an intricate channel called the " JVarrows." On some of the islands in this group are found copper ore, and beautiful specimens of moss. The forest trees, however, are of a dwarfish growth, owing, no doubt, to the scantiness of soil on these rocky islands. About 10 miles west of the " Narrows," the main channel of the St. Mary's River is reached, forming the boundary between the United States and Canada. A rocky island lies on the Ca- nadian side, which is reserved for government purposes, as it commands the main or ship channel. Sugar Island is now reached, which belongs to the United States, and the steamers run a further distance of 25 miles, when the landing at the Saut Ste Marie is reached, there being settlements on both sides of the river. The British boats usu- ally land on the north side, while the American boats make a landing on the south side of the river, near the mouth of the ship canal. o8 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. TPJP THROUGH GEOEGIAN BAY AJfD THE NOETH CHANNEL OF LAKE HUEON TO MANITOULIN AND SAUT STE MAEIE. {Copied from a Toronto paper.) Dated on board the Steamer Collingwood, j Lake Huron, August 17, 1856. I " A LONG, dark tongue of land stretches out into the lake on our larboard quarter, and the opposite view is backed by a rugged coast, with mountains tall and grim. We are just off Cabofs Head, near where the Georgian Bay attains its greatest width (58 miles). The east coast of the Georgian Bay, as de- scribed by Mr. Murray, consists almost exclusively of a sterile rocky border. There are numerous harbors, many of which are, however, so hemmed in by reefs and sunken islets as to render them almost inaccessible to boats of any considerable draught. As we advance toward the north mainland past Lonely Island, the eastern extremity of the Great Manitoulin comes clearly within view. An abrupt escarpment here forms Cape Smyth, and inside a deep sheltered bend, called Smyth's Bay, is located the Jesuit Missionary village of Wequame- kong. This neat little settlement being situated on a slope sur- rounded by extensive clearances, and covered with regularly- built frame • houses, shows out favorably to the passer-by. Due north lies our first stopping-place. The distance from CoUingwood to the head of the Georgian Bay is about 140 miles, and the point of measurement is a small trading port named She-ba-wa-nah-ning, which was reached early on the forenoon of Thursday. The entrance to it is by a strait so narrow as to be qiiite imperceptible at any considerable distance from bhore, bounded on the east side by the mainland, and on the west by a high island. It forms a secure harbor at all times, and owing to the great depth of water and the steepness of both sides, it is not so difficult to pass, even in stormy weather, as one would suppose. This village, now for some unaccountable reason styled ' Killarney,' with the exception of a store, post-office, and diminutive Roman Catholic church, is a mere collection of fishing huts and Indian camps. It derives its original name, .as indeed do most of these Indian localities— fi-om a natural •characteristic. That name signifies ' Here's a channc!,' and it amounts to a piece of great impertinence on the part of any one to destroy its adaptability by substituting Killarney, or any other, for it. The population numbers somewhere about 40 whites and half-breeds, with an occasional accession to the Indian residents, bringing it to an average between 60 and 70. They employ them.selvos almost entirely in the pursuits of trad- ing, hunting, and fishing, but make no attempt at cultivation. COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. o9 not even so much as a cabbage-garden, although there is some tolerably good land in the vicinity. Now and again they have an odd visit from the Jesuit priests at the Wequamekong, and the Church of England Missionary at Manitouwahning ; on which occasions the parishioners are called together by a tin horn instead of a bell. Just inside She-ba-wa-nah-ning is one of those lovely bayous so common along the rocky and indented northern coast, with countless small islets, very much resem- bling the famous ' Thuiisand Islands' in the river St. Lawrence; and closing it in on three sides are the La Cloche IMountains, which here rise abruptly to a considerable altitude. The steamer does not return by the same channel, but passes around the island, forming its boundary on the lake side. Looking back through the narrow strip of water by which we have entered from the main lake, it seems a fairy-like performance to have threaded so small a gorge with this huge steamboat, and the enchanting wildness of the scenery that bounds us on every side adds delight to such surprise. On rounding the west point of this island, the lake opens out again before us, and our steamer heads toward Manitouwahning, distant about 27 miles. At the head of Heywood Sound, on the north side of the Grand ManitoulLn, is situated the village, where we expect to find a host of " aborigiiies" awaiting the receipt of a cargo of trumpery by means of which the commissariat manages to annually amuse their uncultivated fancies and illustrate the marvelous solicitude entertained for them by their " Great Father," who, in the present instance, is a Mother. There is no wharf, but the water is so deep close in shore, that the steamboat sidles up to a low, gravelly beach, and our gangway is laid from her side to land with perfect ease. As it seems not altogether improbable that the chain of islands constituting an Indian Reserve in this locality must ere long be brought into the market for sale, it may prove serviceable to publish a few descriptive particulars relating to their position and quality. For such purpose, then, I shall here briefly relate them while the ' small-boy' in treasury uniform is superintending the em- barkation of government presents to be distributed among that heterogeneous and expectant multitude before us. " The belt of islansls known as the Manitoulins embraces Fitzwilliam, an unimportant island southeast of the principal cf this group, the Grand Manitoulin, and others, of which Bxrrie and Cockburn islands are the only ones worthy of note. The La Cloche and St. Joseph Island are sometimes erroneously included in the general denomination; but they are distin- guished by being crown jDroperties, Avhile the Manitoulins form a portion of the Indian Reserves. With the exception of Great M.mitoulin, none of these islands are of much 'onsequence in 40 COLLIXGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. point of value. The timber thereupon would indicate soil of a workable description, but their rocky elevation seems to deny the existence of fertile tracts of any appreciable extent. The Grand Manitoulin is eighty-one miles in length, and averages about twenty miles in width, and has an area of at least sixteen hundred square miles. Its geological features present nothing remarkable. The soil, over a limestone structure, with a lower fossiliferous bed of extraordinary depth, is rich ; and there is an abundance of soft and hard lumber covering it throughout. I am unaware whether or not any portions of it have been sur- veyed. Certainly the sooner something practical is done in the way of cultivating it the better. It may be rather an easy ad- ministration of that heirloom of titled boobies and aristocratic sprigs, the Indian Department, to keep these reserved lands locked up in the chimerical pretense of benefiting the Indians. The majority of Indians derive no real advantage from them — will certainly never cultivate them — and, therefore, their con- tinuous reservation operates but as a bar to the settlement of adjacent territories. The villages of Wequamekong and iManitouwahning are the only extensive settlements of pre- tension upon the Manitoulin Islands. The latter being the place where we had just landed at the above digression, is the locale of the government agency, and the appointed residence of Captain Ironsides, the local superintendent. In other words, it is the head-quarters of the Indian Department. As a culti- vated spot it has a very enticing appearance. The site is favor- able, in some respects, for a village, but building frame houses for savages, and neither clearing off the stones at similar cost, nor teaching the natives themselves to do so, and afterward to plant gardens, potatoes, corn and maize fields, is not a model plan of carrying out the objects of such selections. The present condition of this place is the best proof. The white inhabitants residing here number about thirty ; the Indian population fluc- tuates between six or seven hundred and two thousand. These, however, seem never to have appreciated the wooden domiciles erected for them, as upward of sixteen frame houses in the village are forsaken, and the remainder may be said to merely serve as a shelter for the families living in them, as they have no signs of improvement near or far. There is a neat little church in the village, and a resident minister of the Church of England. There also is a ' medicine man.' The residences of these gentlemen and that of Captain Ironsides are very com- fortable dwellings. About £600 worth of goods were landed as presents. They consist principally of blankets, trinket.s, calicoes, pork, flour, and a small quantity of ammunition. It was the custom formerly to give them articles adapted to their habitual pursuits, such as shot, guns, rifles, knives, ammuni- Ci.)LLINGWi)OD TO S\UT Sl'E M Alt IK 41 fcion, kettles, hatchets, etc. ; but the most serviceable of these things have been discontinued, in accordance with the wisdom of authority. It occupies the officers in charge sometimes two or three weeks dispensing these articles. The scraps of tribes now present to receive these gifts belong mostly to the Ottawas, Ohippewas, and Pottawatamies. Some few Munsces and Del- awares used at one time to frequent the station, but now there is no great variety of tribes about any part of the lake. In- deed, at this annual distribution but a very few Indian^; attended, in comparison with the multitudinous attendance oi former years. The ' forest children' are annually fading away, an 1 bei'oi'e many more winters and summers have elapsed it will most probably be as rare a thing to find a handful of them about these lakes, as it was in earher days to discover the foot- steps of the pale-face away up in these northern wilds. " The next day we accompanied Captain Ironsides, and a party of friends, to the Indian village of Weqiiamekong. (This is tlie Jesuit mission mentioned in the preceding part of my letter. It was reached by a portage of about seven miles across th neck of the peninsular promontory which forms the east side oi Heywood Sound. The land through which we passed is said to be much more fertile than that in any other section of the island. The village of Wequamekong is quite romantically situated, and is altogether a very pretty little place. The Indians here are remnants of the Chippewa and Ottawa tribes, and they appear cleaner, more industrious, and civilized than I had seen elsewhere. They have fine fields of Indian corn, patches of beans, potatoes, etc., and quite a respectable show of garden vegetables. We witnessed an interesting sight in the ' numbering of the tribes' by Captain Ironsides. It gave us an opportunity to see some fine-looking old chiefs, several of whom were astonished at the idea of having their likenesses taken. The villagers also turned out in holiday attire. We could have ' scarce believed it possible they were so well to do in worldly goods as their ' fashionable' habiliments denoted. Certainly the Jesuits have carried out their mission at this village in the most praiseworthy manner. What with good spirits, ravenous appe- tites, an agreeable host, and the weather that an Italian might almost envy, our time glid swiftly away until the return of the steamboat on Sunday morning. And contented as we had been, the sight of Captain Butterworth's jovial countenance, and a re- newal of our acquaintance with the ' quite at home' comforts of the Collingwood, were abundantly relished. "After leaving Manitouwahning (on Friday), we have the Great Manitoulin on our left; and up to Little Current, the next stopping-place, 30 miles farther on, the course lies through picTuresque clusters of low islands, scantily wooded, and covered 42 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. in the open parts "with a rank growth of dry -looking wild grass, and diversified by clumps of dwarfish pines and firs. There is here a small settlement of Indians and half-breeds. They furnish wood for the steamer, and likewise supply meat, fish, vegetables, etc. At dark we cast off from Little Current. Thence our passage was among woody islands, and through narrow but deep channels, the main shore of Manitoulin always within sight, and now and then opening out into a wider sheet of water, so that the whole course seems to be alternate narrow straits and small lakes. From Little Current to the Bruce Mines the distance is nearly 120 miles, and between the west end of Manitoulin and the north shore, for some distance, the channel is very broad. We passed this during the night-time. It was a clear moonlight night ; and we could see by the drift- ing clouds that hovered above the Great Manitoulin, how rude Boreas was indulging himself with a jolly blow outside, in th2 lake, while not a gust moved the surface of this inside lake, through which our steamboat smoothly plowed her way. After a short stay at the mines, we proceeded onward to Saut Ste Marie, landing once more, en voyage, at Sugar Island. The village of St. Mary, or Saut Ste Marie, is so well known to most people, I shall not bore the reader with any description of it. Suffice to say, the canal on the American side has helped to build up that part at the expense of its opposite settlement. The in- habitants, however, seem to have nothing else to do besides smoking, drinking gin-slings and mint-juleps, and catching fish. " Dr. Jackson states that the healthiness of the climate in these parts during summer months is unsurpassable, and, above all other places, is calculated to restore the health of invalids suffering from the depressive miasms of the fever-breeding Southwestern States, or the pent-up enervating atmosphere of Eastern cities. " This route along the North Channel, for the safe conveyance of merchandise and all perishable goods, is infinitely preferable to that usually traveled across the lakes, filling up as it does a distance of not less than 4G0 miles of rough lake navigation by a pleasant course sheltered from storms and affording a diversity of scenery calculated to relieve the tedium of so long a voyage." ST. JOSEPH ISLAND, C. W. This important island, lying in St. Mary's River, near its outlet into Lake Huron, is thus described by T. N. Moles- worth, provincial land surveyor, and may answer in part COLLINQWOOD TO SAUT S1E MARIE. 43 for a description of Drummond and Sugar islands, lying con- tiguous and belonging to the United States. "The surface along the southern and southwestern shores of St. Joseph Island is generally flat, low, and swampy, being in many places wet, and very thickly timbered. The northern, northeastern, and eastern shores, in general, rise with a gentle inclination from the shore, being swampy only for a short dis- tance inward; and along the northerly shore of Point-au-Gra- vier there is a precipitous rise of about 30 feet in height. The highest hill, near the center of the island, has an elevation of about 400 feet. " The island is generally well watered, a considerable num- ber of streams rising in the swamps in the interior, and enter- ing the lake. The principal one is that having its source in Lake Hilton, which enters Milford Haven with a rapid current, and having a very good mill-site near its mouth, and a con- stant supply of water, and also entering a safe and capacious harbor, is the best adapted for the use of the island. The other streams are of small size, but appear to have a constant supply of water. " The surface soil is almost generally a red sandy loam, or clay and sand mixed with mold ; but in some places a white sand appears ; in others a brown or red clay ; under this there is a stiff clay, in some places of a reddish color, in others nearly white, which crumbles when exposed to the surface. " Very little rock appears anywhere on St. Joseph Island, and only on the shore ; small particles of quartz rock rising about ten feet above the surface, appear atPaymeday-giundeg. In the channel opposite Campement D'Ours Island a mass of syenitic granite puts out in irregular points, some parts rising about 20 feet above the water. In Lot 10, Concession V., white sandstone appears just at the edge of the water, and at the level of its surface ; and in the Point-au-Gravier Conces- sion, blue limestone appears rising abruptly from the water to the height of 30 feet — in the horizontal strata, of from six inches to a foot in thickness. It is used for making lime and building at the Bruce Mines, and by the inhabitants. " The island is closely wooded ; the timber on the hills and dry surface being maple, beech, birch — often mixed with hem- lock --cedar, spruce, basswood, and elm. In some parts the timber is all maple, and a great deal of it is bird's-eye and curly maple— the latter mostly where the surface is stony. In the swamps the timber is cedar, spruce, balsam, hemlock, pine, and tamarack — generally growing very densely in most of the swamps — the cedar predominating — in some, the tamarack or spruce. 44 COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. " With regard to the capabilities of the island for settlement, about two thirds of its surface will probably be available — the remaining third being swamps of little use except as meadows at a future period. " Its soil is of good quality for agricultural purposes , raising wheat, oats, potatoes, turnips, carrots, peas, beans, Indian corn, and melons equally well with lands in other part^ of the prov- ince. The raining regions will afford a favorable market for the surplus agricultural produce raised upon the island, which lies in the course of, and possesses stopping-places for, the Amer- ican and Canadian steamers pruceeding to the Saut Ste Marie and Lake Superior. " The snow disappearing off the clearings about the middle of April, the farmers commence farming oper.itions a few days later : there are very few frosts after that time to injure any crops. The harvest commences about the middle of August. There is an abundance of fine fish in the waters around the island, and small fisheries are carried on in the following places. Tenby Bay. (White fish are caught extensively after the middle of October.) Campement des Matelots, or St. Joseph. (Black bass, pike, and white-fish very abundant.) Opposite Sugar Island there is a herring fishery ; and in Mud Lake, opposite the Campement des Matelots, on the American shore, there is a considerable pickerel fishery. Besides these there are abundance of pike, ti-out, and maskalonge in all tlie waters round the island, which are very serviceable to the in- habitants. There are a few moose and red deer, and a num- ber of black bears on the island, besides foxes, hares, etc. " The lake freezes over generally before the middle of De- cember, the ice clearing off in the spring about the 1st May ; and the snow lies permanently on the ground from the middle of December to the middle of April ; its average depth is from two to three feet, its greatest about four feet. The lowest range of the thermometer is in February, when it reaches 23° below zero (Fahr.), for perhaps a fortnight, the average cold being from 10*^ above to 10° below zero. In June, July, and August the highest range is sometimes 100° above zero ; aver- age range 70° to 80°." This island has been recently surveyed, and the lands sold under the direction of the Crown Land Department of Canada, thus offering inducements for settlement and cultivation. COLLINGWOOD TO SAUT STE MARIE. 45 Saut Ste Marie, capital of Chippewa Co., Mich., is advan- tageously situated on St, Mary's River, or Strait, 350 miles N.N.W. of Detroit, and 15 miles from the foot of Lake Supe- rior, in N. lat. 46° 31'. The rapids at this place, giving the name to the settlements on both sides of the river, have a descent of 20 feet, within the distance of a mile, and form the natural limit of navigation. The Ship Canal, however, which has recently been constructed on the American side, obviatfv'S this difficulty. Steamers of a large class now pass througj'h the locks into Lake Superior, greatly facilitating trade and commerce. The village on the American side is pleasantly situated near the foot of the rapids, and contains a court-house and jail ; a Baptist, a Methodist, and a Roman Catholic church ; 15 or 20 stores and storehouses, besides a few manufacturing establishments, and about 1 ,000 inhabitants. Many of the in- habitants and Indians in the vicinity are engaged in the fur trade and fisheries, the latter being an important and profit- able occupation. Summer visitors flock to this place and the Lake Superior country for health and pleasure. There are two hotels on the American side, and one on the Canadian side of the river, affording good accommodations. Fort Brady is an old and important United States military post contiguous to this frontier village, where is stationed a regular garrison of troops. It commands the St. Mary's River and the approach to the mouth of the canal. Saut Ste Marie, C. W., is a scattered settlement, where is located a part of the Hudson Bay Company. Here is a steam- boat landing, an hotel, and two or three stores, including the Hudson Bay Company's ; and it has from 200 to 300 inhabit- ants. Indians of the Chippewa tribe reside in the vicinity in considerable numbers, they having the exclusive right to take fish in the waters contiguous to the rapids. They also employ themselves in running the rapids in their frail canoes, when desired by citizens or strangers — this being one of the most exhilarating enjoyments for those fond of aquotic sports. ( See Engraving.) fe 1 ST. Mary's falls siih canal. 47 THE SAINT MART'S FALLS SHIP CANAL. This Canal, ■w^hich connects the navigation of Lake Superior with the Lower Lakes, is a little more than one mile in length, and cost about one million dollars. It was built in the years 1853, '54, '55 by the Saint Mary'« Falls Ship Canal Company, under a contract with commission- ers appointed by the authorities of the State of Michigan to secure the building of the canal. A grant of 750,000 acres of the public land had previously been made by Congress to the State of Michigan to aid in the construction of this important work. This grant of 750,000 acres was given to the parties contract- ing for the building of the canal, provided the work should be completed within two years from the.date of the contract. The work was commenced in the spring of 1853, and completed wiihin the time specified in the contract {two years !). This result was accomplished under many disadvantages, during a very sickly season, and when great dijBficulty was ex- psiienced in obtaining laborers ; but the unremitting vigor of th se who had the charge of the work secured its completion in the most substantial, permanent, and acceptable manner. During a great portion of the time there were from 1,200 to 1 .i;00 men employed upon the work, exclusive of the force at the difterpnt quarries where the stone was cut and prepared for the locks, besides a large force employed in necessary agencies, getting timber, etc. The stones for the locks were cut at Anderden, Canada (near Maiden), and at Marblehead, near Sandusky, in Ohio. These were sent in vessels to the work, some twenty-five different sa'l- ing vessels being employed in this business. On the completion of the canal in .Tune, 1855, the Governor of the State, the State officers, and the Canal Commissioners proceeded to Saut Ste Marie for the purpose of inspecting the work. It was accepted, and thereupon, in accordance with the terms of the contract, the State authorities released to the Canal 48 ST. Mary's falls ship canal. Company and issued patents for the 750,000 acres of land. This ■was all the remuneration the company received for the work. The lands were selected during the building of the canal by agents appointed by the Governor of Michigan. Of the 750,000 acres, 39,000 acres were selected in the iron region of Lake Superior, 147,000 acres in the copper region, and the balance, 564,000 acres, in the Lower Peninsula. The following figures will give some idea of the magnitude of this work : Length of canal 5,584 feet,' -^ 1 mile 304 feet. Width at top 115 feet — at water-line 100 feet — at bottom 64 feet. The depth of the canal is 1 2 feet. A slope waU on the sides of the canal is 4,000 feet in length. There are two locks, each 350 feet in length. Width of locks 70 feet at top — 6L} feet at bottom. The walls are 25 feet high — 10 feet thick at bottom. Lift of upper lock 8 feet — lower do., 10 feet; total lockage 18 feet. Lower wharf 180 feet long, 20 feet wide. Upper wharf 830 feet long, from 16 to 30 feet wide. There are three pairs of folding gates, each 40 feet wide. Upper gate 17 feet high — lower gate 24 feet 6 inches high. There are also upper and lower caisson gates, used for shutting off the water from the canal. The amount of lumber, timber, and iron used in the building of the piers and gates is enormous. There were 103, 437 lbs of wrought iron used in the gates, and 38,000 lbs cast iron. About 8,000 feet of oak timber, etc. The tolls on the canal are collected by the State— are merely nominal — and only intended to defray the necessary expenses of repairs. THE UPPER LAKE COUNTRY. 49 THE UPPER LAKE COUNTET. We copy the following extract from an address published in the Lansing (Mich.) Republican, as containing interesting in- formation regarding the Commerce of the Upper Lakes : C. T. Harvey, Esq., of Lake Superior, agreeably to appoint- ment, made an address in the Hall of the House of Represent- atives on the subject of the '-present state and future prospects of the Commerce of Lake Superior." " As to the past, he observed that in 1839 the first steamer visited the Saut Ste Marie, to the great astonishment of the Indians who lived on St. Mary's River. That in 1844 Capt. Ward first established a regular steamboat line from Detroit to the entrance of Lake Superior via Mackinac. That in 1849 Mr. S. McKnight (a member of the house) did all the trans- portation of merchandise around the Falls of St. Mary's .with one or two horses, and it was not till 1851 that the first steamer floated on the waters of Lake Superior only six years ago. " After some further reminiscences showing at how very re- cent a date business in that quarter had commenced, the speaker proceeded to the present. " He referred to the report of the Superintendent of the Saut Canal, to show that in the season of 1856 just closed there was over 11,000 tons of iron ore shipped through it to Detroit and eastward. An increase of 800 per cent, over 1855, when only 1,400 tons were sent down. That 1,040 tons of bloom iron were sent, an increase of 25 per cent. ; but the most remarkable fact was that ten millions four hundred and fifty-two thousand pounds of copper were sent through the canal in the raw state — over two and a quarter millions of dollars — an increase of some 67 per cent. Mr. H. remarked that this noticeable in- crease did not look like a failure of the mining interests, al- though public excitement respecting them had subsided. " The business eastward through the canal of mineral and fish exported from the lake, amounted to, as estimated by the Superintendent, $2,875,000; while the imports of merchandise and supplies were, in round numbers, $2,500,000 ; making a total of $5,375,000, of which he calculated full $5,000,000 was commerce of the Upper Peninsula. Remarking that a trade of this magnitude, which had sprung up out of nothing within fifteen years, must in the next fifteen years increase in almost the same ratio, till the results would be almost incredible, he hazarded the conjecture, that within 25 years as many vessels of all kinds would pass and re-pass in the St. Mary's River, as now frequent the waters of the St. Clair." 5 TRIP FROM COLmGWOOD TO MACKmAC, GREEN BAY, CHICAGO, ETC. This excursion is an interesting one for the pleasure traveler, as well as the man of business. The steamer on leaving Col- lingwood runs direct for CaboVs Head, 80 miles, skirting the main shore of Canada to Cape Hnrd, about 20 miles farther, passing the Bear's Rump, Flower Pot, Echo and Cove islands. Yeo Island and Fitz William Island (a large island) are seen on the north; several smaller islands are also passed, when the broad waters of Lake Huron are entered, the steamers usually running direct for Mackinac. The Great Manitoulin may be seen in the distance, toward the north, in pleasant weather, and the Outer Duck and Great Duck islands are passed about 80 miles westward of Cape Hurd. The steamer then pursues a westerly course toward Mackinac, about 100 miles farther, sighting Presque Isle on the main jNIichigan shore, and passing Bois Blanc and Round islands. The Straits of Mackinac are now entered, being here about twenty miles across, but soon diminishes in width; opposite old Fort Mackinac it is four or five miles in width. The Straits of Mackinac, with the approaches thereto from Lakes Huron and Michigan, will always command atten- tion from the passing traveler. Through this channel will pass, for ages to come, a great current of commerce, and its shores will be enlivened with civilized life, where at present the Indian now lingers, but, alas ! is fast fading away. It is proposed to construct a railroad running from Detroit or Saginaw to Old Fort Mackinac, which, when completed, will tend to open the whole northern portion of this part of the State of Michigan, one of the most favorably situated States of COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. 51 the whole Union ; having two peninsulas, rich in soil and mine- ral productions, and from which are now exported immense quantities of lumber, copper, and iron ore. In this great commercial route Lake Huron is traversed for about 180 miles, often affording the traveler a taste of sea-sick- ness and its consequent evils. Yet there often are times when Lake Huron is hardly ruffled, and the timid passenger enjoys the voyage with as much zest as the more experienced mariner. Mackinac, the gem of the Upper Lake islands, may vie with any other locality for the salubrity of its climate, for its pic- turesque beauties, and for its vicinity to fine fishing-grounds. Here the invalid, the seeker of pleasure, as well as the sports- man and angler, can find enjoyment to their heart's content during warm weather. For further description see page 110. On leaving Mackinac for Green Bay the steamer generally runs a west course for the mouth of the bay, passing several islands in Lake Michigan before entering the waters of Green Bay, about 150 miles distant. Summer Island lies on the north side and Rock Island lies on the south side of the entrance to Green Bay, forming a charming view from the deck of the steamer. PoTAWATOMEE IsLAND, Chambers' Island, and othor small islands, are next passed on the upward trip toward the head of the bay. Green Bay, about 100 miles long and from 20 to 30 miles wide, is a splendid sheet of water, destined no doubt to be enlivened with commerce and pleasure excursions. Here are to be seen a number of picturesque islands and headlands. Several important streams enter into Green Bay, the largest of which is Neenah or Fox River, at its head, and is the outlet of Winnebago Lake. Menomonee River forms the boundary between the States of Wisconsin and Michigan, and empties into the bay opposite Green Island. The town of Green Bay, the capital of Brown Co., Wis., is finely situated near the mouth of Fox or Neenah River, at its entrance into Green Bay, where is a good and secure harbor. 52 COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. It lies 25 miles due west of Kewaunee, on the west shore of Lake IVIichigan, and 115 miles north from Milwaukee. The town is handsomely situated, and contains many large ware- houses and elegant residences, together with several churches, hotels, and stores of different kinds, and about 3.000 inhab- itants. The improvement of Fox River by dams and locks, in connection with the improvements on the Wisconsin River, afford an uninterrupted steam navigation from Green Bay to Prairie du Chien, on the Mississippi River — thus making Green Bay a great point for the trans-shipment of goods and produce of every variety ; the largest class steamers running to Chicago on the south, Saut Ste Marie on the north, as well as to Colling- wood, to Detroit, and to Buffalo on the east. The lumber trade of Green Bay is immense, this whole section of country abound- ing in timber of different kinds the most useful for building purposes. AsTOR is the name of a suburb of Green Bay, lying at the mouth of Fox River, while on the opposite side of the stream stands Fort Hoivard, surrounded by a village of the same name. Nenomonee City, Oconto Co., Wis., is a new settlement, situated on the west side of Green Bay, near the mouth of Ne- nomonee River. The country to the west and north of this place is as yet a wilderness, inhabited only by a few roving Indians. In regard to the route from Green Bay to Lake Superior, the Advocate says : " A road from Green Bay to the most southerly point of Kee- wenaw would be less than 200 miles in length, and While it would shorten the travel over the present route (by water) at least 100 miles, would open one of the most beautiful and fer- tile sections in the Union— a section which will remain unknown and unoccupied until such a road is opened by the government. The Lake Superior people need it most especially for procuring supplies, driving cattle, etc. " The traveler finds the whole distance, to within a few miles of Lake Superior, abounding in every resource which will make a country wealthy and prosperous. Clear, beautiful lakes are COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. 53 interspersed, and these have plenty of large trout and other fish. Water and -water-powers are everywhere to be found, and the timber is of the best kind — maple groves, beech, oak, pine, etc. Nothing is now wanted but a few roads to open this rich country to the settler, and it will soon teem with vil- lages, schools, mills, farming operations, and every industrial pursuit which the more southern portion of our State now ex- hibits." Fox or JVeenah River rises in Marquette Co., Wis., and passing through Lake Winnebago, forms its outlet. This im- portant stream is rendered navigable for steamers of a small class by means of dams and locks, forming in connection with a short canal to the Wisconsin River a direct water communica- tion from Green Bay to the Mississippi River, a distance of about 200 miles. The rapids in the lower part of Fox River aflEbrd an immense water-power, while the upper section of country through which it flows, produces lumber and grain in great abundance. Appleton, Outaganie Co., Wis., is situated on Fox or Nee- nah River, 30 miles from its entrance into Green Bay, and five miles from Lake Winnebago, where are rapids called the Grand Chute. Here the river descends about 30 feet in one mile and a half, affording an inexhaustible amount of water- power. Here are located two flouring mills, four saw mills, a paper mill, and sash factory. This is the capital of the county, and is no doubt destined to become a large manufacturing and commercial place, from the facilities which it possesses, by means of navigation and hydraulic power. Steamers run south into Lake Winnebago, and north into Green Bay. Neekah, situated at the foot of Lake Winnebago, where commences the river improvement, is a growing place. Here is a fine water-power, which gives motion to several mills. The City of Oshkosh, situated on the west side of Lake Win- nebago, is a flourishing place, and the capital of Winnebago County, Wis. It contains the county buildings, 7 churches, a land-office, several public houses, 40 or 50 stores of different kinds, 2 steam grist-mills, 12 steam saw-mills, 2 iron foundries, 6* 54 COLLINGWOOD TO MACKINAC, ETC. and a number of other manufacturing establishments, and about 7,500 inhabitants. The Fox and VVo//" rivers uniting, form a large and important stream, flowing into the lake at Oshkosh, which, together with plank-roads and a railroad to extend south to Fond du Lac, and another road to Ripon, give great facilities for trade and commerce, in connection with lake and river navigation. The Fox River l7n2)rovement here leaves Lake Winnebago, and ex- tends in a southwest direction toward the junction with the Wisconsin River at Portage City. Fond du Lac, capital of Fond du Lac County, is a flourish- ing city favorably situated at the head of Lake Winnebago, 87 miles N.N.W. from Milwaukee by railroad route, and 42 miles west of Sheboygan, lying on Lake Michigan. Here are located the county buildings, a city hall, several churches and public houses, 60 stores of different kinds, two banking houses, a car factory, an iron foundry, and several other manufacturing establishments, and 7,000 inhabitants. Steamers run daily to Oshkosh, Appleton, Green Bay, and other ports. The Chicago, St. Paul and Fo7id du Lac Railroad, when finished, will form a direct and speedy communication with al- most every part of Wisconsin, Illinois, and Minnesota. Lake Winnebago, which is a most beautiful sheet of water, about 30 miles long and 10 broad, form« a link in the chain of navigable waters, connecting Green Bay and Lake Michigan with the Wisconsin and Mississippi River at Prairie du Chien, Railroads will soon reach the waters of this lake from several points. The Trip from Chicago to Mackinac, etc., connecting at the latter place with the Green Bay route, is fully described in another part of this work LAKE SUPERIOR REGION. 55 MINERAL WEALTH OF THE LAKE SUPERIOR REGION. Native Copper ^— " This useful metal is in every respect the most interesting substance found in connection witli the trap- pean rocks of the Lake Superior region, is widely distributed, and possesses great mineralogical interest. In addition to the enormous masses which occur in the veins of this region, some- times attaining at the Cliff Mine the weight of several hundred tons, a great variety of crystalline forms are occasionally found. The most interesting localities of the crystallized copper are at the Copper Falls, the Cliff, the Phoenix, and the Eagle Harbor mines. Many of these beautiful specimens are highly valued by those interested in the mines, and, of course, difficult to be obtained, except by those residing at the localities where they occur." Native Silver. — " This valuable metal occurs, diffused through the trap, at various localities on Keweenaw Point and Isle Royal. In fact, its distribution is coextensive with that of native copper ; but the principal portion of that which has been obtained thus far was from the old Lake Superior (now Phoe- nix), the Cliff, the Copper Falls, and the Minnesota mines. The silver occurs in connection with the metallic copper, both metals being united together at their edges, and yet each being almost entirely pure and free from alloy with the other. The silver is almost invariably accompanied by a greenish, hydrous silicate of alumina and iron. The largest mass of silver ob- tained, up to this time, weighed more than six pounds. This was found at the Phoenix Mine. Beautiful specimens of native silver, in Prehnite, have also been picked up on the beaches of Washington Harbor, Isle Royal." A Diamond Found. — We had been well aware that this country was very rich in minerals and some kinds of precious stones, but we had not expected to see a Lake Superior dia- mond, yet such is the case. We were shown one yesterday that would measure three fourths of an inch in length, and at least one fourth of an inch in thickness. It is a regular formed 56 LAKE SUPERIOR REGION. octagon, and all who have seen it pronounce it a diamond, but of what exact value is yet uncertain, it being in the rough state. It cuts glass and shows all the brilliancy of a diamond of the first water, which, if it should prove to be, will make its value not less than two thousand dollars. The diamond was found by the wife of Mr. Alfred HaufiFman, while walking on the shore of the Lake. The waves washed it up, and on receding left it exposed to the rays of the sun, when its brightness attracted her attention, and she picked it up. Mr. H. is a poor laboring man, and should it prove as valuable as is supposed, it will be quite a handsome windfall (we might say water-tall) for him. This is a great country. — Lake Superior Journal — 1856. For a description of Lake Superior Iron Region, see page 66. LAKE COMMEECE— IMPORTANT IMPROVEMENTS. Deepening of the St. Clair Flats. — We understand, Bays the Detroit Daily Advertiser (June, 1855), that the con- tract for deepening the channel of the St. Clair Flats has been let to Mr. Barton, of Buffalo. The contract is subject to the approval of the War Department, and should it be approved by the first of next month, it will be prosecuted with vigor. Mr. Barton is also connected with Mr. Osgood in the contract for deepening the channel of the St. Mary River, which has been approved by the War Department. The machinery to be used in the work will be taken up in a few days, and every prepara- tion is being made to commence the work about the 1st of July, and to drive it successfully forward. We hear that both the above-named gentlemen have had much experience in this kind of business, and being men of energy and perseverance, will push the work forward with all possible dispatch. The deepen- ing of both these channels is all-important to the commercial community, and it is earnestly hoped that nothing may occur to hinder or retard its progress and speedy completion. TRIP FROM SAUT STE MARIE TO THE DIFFERENT PORTS OX LAKE SUPERIOR. Since the completion of the St. Mary's Ship Canal in the •spring of 1855, steamers and propellers of a large class trayerse the waters of Lake Superior, affording safe and excellent accom- dations for travelers and emigrants. During the year 1856 three large steamers formed the Lake Superior Line running from Cleveland and Detroit through the canal to Superior City, at the head of Fond du Lac, and two large steamers, besides several propellers, ran from Chicago for the same destination, stopping at IMackinac, forming an almost daily communication with the different Lake Superior ports. The steamer Collingwood also runs direct from Collingwood, C. W., to the Saut Ste Marie, enabling passengers taking the Toronto and Collingwood route to proceed direct into Lake Superior. On leaving the Upper Landing at the Sant Ste Marie, above the rapids, the steamer soon enters Tequamenon Bay, passing Iroquois Point, ISmiles distant on the south shore, while Gros Cap, on the north or Canada side, lies opposite, being about four miles asunder. This headland consists of hills of porphyry esti- mated to rise 6 or 700 feet above the waters of the lake. " Gros Cap is a name given by the voyageurs to almost innumerable projecting headlands ; but in this case appropriate— since it is the conspicuous feature at the entrance of the lake." North of Gros Cap lies Goulais Bay, and Goulais Point, an- other bold headland, is seen in the distance. The whole north shore, as seen from the deck of the steamer, presents a bold and grand appearance. Tequamenon Bay is about 25 miles long and as many broad, terminating at White Fish Point, 40 miles above Saut Ste Marie. Parisien Island is passed, lying near the middle of the above 58 LAKE SUPERK B. bay, being attached to Canada. Opposite this island, to the north, is seen Coulit Point, and besides this, several small islands stud the north shore. Tequamenon River enters the bay from the east, discharging a large quantity of water. Mamainse Point (Little Sturgeon), opposite White Fish Point, is another bold headland, near where is situated the Quebec Copper Mining Co.'s Works, at present abandoned, owing to their being found unproductive. Some 15 or 20 miles north are located the Montreal Company's Copper Mine, which is being successfully worked. While still farther north, skirting Lake Superior, is to be found a vast mineral region, as yet only par- tially explored. The scenery of Lake Superior, and the productions of its shores, which are so little known to even our professional tour- ists, are thus vividly described by an intelligent writer : " Situated between latitudes forty -six and forty-nine — with an altitude of over two hundred yards above the level of the ocean, and a depth reaching far below that level — a coast of surpassing beauty and grandeur, more than twelve hundred miles in extent, and abounding in geological phenomena, varied mineral wealth, agates, cornelian, jasper . opal, and other precious stones— with its rivers, bays, estuaries, islands, presque isles, peninsulas, capes, pictured rocks, transparent lakes, leaping cas- cades, and bold highlands, limned with pure veins of quartz, spar, and amethystine crystals, full to repletion with mineral riches ; reflecting in gorgeous majesty the sun's bright rays and the moon's mellow blush ; o'ertopped with ever-verdant groves of fir, cedar, and the mountain ash ; while the background is filled up with mountain upon mountain, until rising in majesty to the clouds, distance loses their inequality resting against the clear vault of heaven." On passing White Fish Point, where may be seen a number of " sand-dunes," or hills, and a light-house 75 feet in height, the broad waters of Lake Superior are reached. The steamers usually pursue a westerly course toward Grand Island or Mar- quette, passing Point au Sable, 50 miles farther. During clear weather, the steep sandy hills on the south shore, ranging from 400 to 1,000 feet in height, may be seen from the deck of the steamer. LAKE SUPERIOR. 59 The Pictured Rocks, of which almost fabulous accounts are given by travelers, are about 110 miles west of Saut Ste Marie. Here also are to be seen the Cascade Falls and the Arched Rock, both objects of great interest. The Amphitheatre, Miners' Castle, Chapel, Grand Portal, and Sail Rock, are also points of great picturesque beauty, which require to be seen to be justly appreciated. Extract from Foster and Whitney's Report of the Geology of the Lake Superior Land District : PICTUEED KOCKS. " The range of cliffs to which the name of the Pictured Rocks has been given, may be regarded as among the most striking and beautiful features of the scenery of the Northwest, and are well worthy the attention of the artist, the lover of the grand and beautiful, and the observer of geological phenomena. " Although occasionally visited by travelers, a full and ac- curate description of this extraordinary locality has not as yet been communicated to the public* " The Pictured Rocks may be described, in general terms, as a series of sandstone bluffs extending along the shore of Lake Superior for about five miles, and rising, in most places, vertically from the water, without any beach at the base, to a height varying from fifty to nearly two hundred feet. Were they simply a line of cliffs, they might not, so far as relates to height or extent, be worthy of a rank among great natural curiosities, although such an assemblage of rocky strata, washed by the waves of the great lake, would not, under any circumstances, be destitute of grandeur. To the voyager coasting along their base in his frail canoe they would, at all times, be an object of dread; the recoil of the surf, the rock- bound coast, affording for miles no place of refuge ; the low- ering sky, the rising wind ; all these would excite his appre- * Schoolcraft has undertaken to describe this range of cliffs, and illus- trate the scenery. The sketches do not appear to have been made on the spot, or finished by one who was acquainted with the scenery, as they bear no resemblance, so far as we observed, to any of the prominent fea- tures of the Pictured Eocks. " It is a matter of surprise that, so far as we know, none of our artists have visited this region and given to the world representations of scenery 80 striking, and so different from any which can be found elsewhere. We can hardly conceive of any thing more worthy of the artist's pencil ; and if the tide of pleasure-travel should once be turned in this directiim, it seems not unreasonable to suppose that a fashionable hotel may yet be built under the shade of the pine groves near the Chapel, and a trip thither become as common as one to Niagara now is." 60 LAKE SUPERIOR. hension, and induce him to ply a vigorous oar until the dreaded ■wall was passed. But in the Pictured Rocks there are two features which communicate to the scenery a wonderful and almost unique character. These are, first, the curious manner in which the cliffs have been excavated and worn away by the action of the lake, which for centuries has dashed an ocean- like surf against their base ; and, second, the equally curious manner in which large portions of the surface have been colored by bands of brilliant hues. " It is ffom the latter circumstance that the name by which these cliffs are known to the American traveler is derived; while that applied to them by the French voyageurs (' Les Portails'*) is derived from the former, and by far the most striking peculiarity. " The term Pictured Rocks has been in use for a gi'eat length of time, but when it was first applied we have been unable to discover. " The Indian name applied to these cliffs, according to our voyageurs, is Schkuee-archibi-kung or " The end of the rocks," which seems to refer to the fact that, in descending the lake, after having passed them, no more rocks are seen along the shore. Our voyageurs had many legends to relate of the pranks of the Menni-boujou in these caverns, and in answer to our inquiries seemed disposed to fabricate stories without end of the achievements of this Indian deity. " We will describe the most interesting points in the series, proceeding from west to east. On leaving Grand Island harbor,t * Le Portail is a French terra, signifying the principal entrance of a church or a portal, and this name was given to the Pictured Eocks by the Toyageura evidently in allusion to the arched entrances which con- stitute the most characteristic feature. Le Grand Portail is the great archway, or grand portal. t The traveler desirous of visiting this scene should take advantage of one of the steamers or propellers which navigate the lake and land at Grand Island, from which he can proceed to make the tour of the inter- esting points in a small boat. The large vessels on the lake do not ap- proach sutficiently near the cliffs to allow the traveler to gather more than a general idea of their position and outlines. To be able to Appreciate and understand their extraordinary character, it is indispensable to coast along in close proximity to the cliffs and pass beneath the Grand Portal, which is only accessible from the lake, and to laud and enter within the precincts of the Chapel. At Grand Island, boats, men, and provisions may be procured. The traveler sliould lay in a good supply, if it is in- tended to be absent long enough to make a thorough examination of the whole series. In fact, an old voyager will not readily trust himself to the mercy of the winds and waves of the lake without them, as he may not unfrequently, however auspicious the weather when starting, find himself weather-bound for days together. It is possible, however, ui one day, to Btart from Grand Island, see the most interesting points and return. The distance from William's to the Chapel— the farthest point of interest— is about fifteen miles. LAKE SUPERIOR. 61 iiigh cliiFs are seen to the east, -wliich form the commence- ment of the series of rocky promontories, which rise vertically from the water to the height of from one hundred to one hun- dred and twenty-five feet, covered with a dense canopy of foli- age. Occasionally a small cascade may be seen falling from the verge to the base in an unbroken curve, or gliding down the inclined face of the cliff in a sheet of white foam. The rocks at this point begin to assume fantastic shapes ; but it is not until having reached Miners' River that their striking peculiarities are observed. Here the coast makes an abrupt turn to the eastward, and just at the point where the rocks break off and the friendly sand-beach begins, is seen one of the grandest works of nature in her rock-built architecture. We gave it the name of " IMiners' Castle," from its singular resem- blance to the turreted entrance and arched portal of some old castle — for instance, that of Dumbarton. The height of the ad- vancing mass, in which the form of the Gothic gateway may be recognized, is about seventy feet, while that of the main wall forming the background is about one hundred and forty. The appearance of the openings at the base changes rapidly with each change iu the position of the spectator. On taking a posi- tion a little farther to the right of that occupied by the sketcher, the central opening appears more distinctly flanked on either side by two lateral passages, making the resemblance to an artificial work still more striking. " A little farther east, Miners' River enters the lake close under the brow of the cliff, which here sinks down and gives place to a sand-bank nearly a third of a mile in extent. The river is so narrow that it requires no little skill on the part of the voyager to enter its mouth when a heavy sea is rolling in from the north. On the right bank, a sandy drift plain, cov- ered with Norway and Banksian pine, spreads out, affording good camping-gi-ound — the only place of refuge to the voyager until he reaches Chapel River, five miles distant, if we excep* a small sand beach about midway between the two points, where, in case of necessity, a boat may be beached. " Beyond the sand beach at Miners' River the cliffs attain an altitude of one hundred and seventy-three feet, and main- tain a nearly uniform height for a considerable distance. Here one of those cascades of which we have before spoken is seen loaming down the rock. " The cliffs do not form straight lines, but rather arcs of circles, the space between the projecting points having been worn out in symmetrical curves, some of which are of large di- mensions. To one of the grandest and most regularly formed we gave the name of ' The Amphitheatre.' Looking to the west, another projecting point — its base worn into cave-lik^ 6 G2 LAKE SUPJ-. it. forms— and a portion of the concave surface of the intervening; space are seen. " It is in this portion of the series that the phenomena of colors are most beautifully and conspicuously displayed. These can not be illustrated by a mere crayon sketch, but ■^\-ould re- quire, to reproduce the natural effect, an elaborate drawing en a large scale, in which the various combinations of color should be carefully represented. These colors do not by any mx'an> cover the whole surface of the cliff even wliere they are vao^: conspicuously displayed, but are confined to certain portions of die cliffs in the vicinity of the Amphitheatre ; the great mast sf the surface presenting the natural, light-yellow, or raw- wenna color of the rock The colors are also limited in their vertical range, rarely extending more than thirty or forty feet above the water, or a quarter or a third of the vertical height of the cliff. The prevailing tints consist of dcep-broAvn, yellow, and gray— burnt-sienna and French-gray predominating. '■there are also bright blues and greens, though less fre- quent. All of the tints are fresh, brilliant, and distinct, and hax-monize admirably with one another, which, taken in con- nection with the grandeur of the arched and caverned surfdces on which they are laid, and the deep and pure green of the water which heaves and swells at the base, and the rich fol'age which waves above, produce an effect truly wonderful. " They are not scattered indiscriminately over the surface of the rock, but are arranged in vertical and parallel bands, extending to the water's edge. The mode of their production is undoubtedly as follows : Between the bands or strata of thick-bedded sandstone there are thin seams of shaly mate- rials, which are more or less charged with the metallic oxides, iron largely predominating, with here and there a trace of copper. As the surface-water permeates through the porous strata it comes in contact with these shaly bands, and, oozing out from the exposed edges, trickles down the face of the cliff's, and leaves behind a sediment, colored according to the oxide which is contained in the band in which it oi'iginated. It can not, however, be denied that there are some peculiarities Avhich it is difficult to explain by any hypothesis. " On first examining the Pictured Bocks, we were forcibly struck with the brilliancy and beauty of the colors, and wcn- dcred why some of our predecessors, in their descriptions, had hardly adverted to what we regarded as their most character- istic feature. At a subsequent visit we were surprised to find that the effect of the colors was much less striking than before : they seemed faded out, leaving only traces of their former bril- liancy, so that the traveler might regard this as an unimport- ant feature in the scenery. It is difficult to account for this LAKE SUFKRIOR. 63 change, but it may be due to the drynesss or humidity of the season. If the colors are produced by the percolation of the water through the strata, taking up and depositing the colored sediments, as before suggested, it is evident that a long period of drouth would cut oif the supply of moisture, and the colors, being no longer renewed, would fade, and finally disappear. This esplanation seems reasonable, for at the time of our second visit the beds of the streams on the summit of the table-land were dry. " It is a curious fact, that the colors are so firmly attached to the surface that they are very little affected by rains or the dashing of the surf, since they were, in numerous instances, observed extending in all their freshness to the very water's edge. "Proceeding to the eastward of the Amphitheatre, we find the cliifs scooped out into caverns and grotesque openings, of the most striding and beautiful variety of forms. In some places huge blocks of sandstone have become dislodged and accumulated at the base of the cliff, where they are ground up and the fragments borne away by the ceaseless action of the surge. " To a striking group of detached blocks the name of ' Sail Rock' has been given, from its striking resemblance to the jib and mainsail of a sloop when spread — so much so, that when viewed from a distance, with a full glare of light upon it, while the cliit in the rear is left in the shade, the illusion is perfect. The height of the block is aboiU forty feet. " Masses of rock are frequently disloged from the cliff, if we may judge from the freshness of the fracture and the appear- ance of the trees involved in the descent. The rapidity with which this undermining process is carried on, at many points, will be readily appreciated when we consider that the cliffs do not form a single unbroken line of wall ; but, on the contraiy, they present numerous salient angles to the full force of the waves. A projecting corner is undermined until the superincumbent weight becomes too great, the overhanging mass cracks, and aided perhaps by the power of frost, gradually becomes loosened, nnd finally topples with a crash into the lake. " The same general arched and broken line of cliffs borders the corist for a mile to the eastward of Sail Rock, where the most im- posing feature in the series is reached. This is the Grand Portal — Le Grand Port ail of the voi/ageurs. The general disposition of the arched openings which traverse this great quadrilateral mass may, perhaps, be made intelligible without the aid of a ground-plan. The main body of the structure consists of a vast mass of a rectilinear shape, pi ojocting out into the lake about six hundred feet, and presenting a front of three hundred or four 04 LAKE SUPERIOR. hundred feet, and rising to a lieiglit of about two hundred feet. An entrance has been excavated from one side to the other, open- ing out into large vaulted passages vrhich communicate with the great dome, some three hundred feet from the front of the cliff. The Grand Portal, which opens out on the lake, is of magnificent dimensions, being about one hundred feet in height, and on? hundred and sixty-eight feet broad at the water-level. The dis- tance from the verge of the cliff over the arch to the w^lter is one hundred and thiity-three feet, leaving thirty-tliree feet for the thickness of the rock above the arch itself. The extreme height of the cliff is about fifty feet more, making in all one hundred and eighty-three feet. "It is impossible, by any arrangement of words, or by any combination of colors, to convey an adequate idea of this won- derful scene. The vast dimensions of the cavern, the vaulted passages, the varied effects of the light as it streams through the great arch and falls on the different objects, the deep emerald green of the water, the i^nvarying swell of the lake keeping up a succession of musical echoes, the reverberations of one's own voice coming back with startling effect, all these must be seen, and hoard, and felt, to be fully appreciated. " Beyond the Grnnd Portal the cliffs gradually diminish in height, and the general trend of the coast is more to the south- east; hence the rock being less exposed to the force of the waves, bears fewer marks of their destructive action. The entrance to Chapel River is at the most easterly extremity of a sandy beach which extends fur a quarter of a mile, and affords a convenient landing-place, while the drift-terrace, elevated about thirty feet above tlie lake-level, being an open pine plain, affords excellent camping-ground, and is the most central and convenient spot for the traveler to pitch his tent, while he ex- amines the most interesting localities in the series which occur in this vicinity — to wit, the Grand Portal and the Chapel. — (See En^ravintr.) The Chapel — La Chapelle of the voi/agews — if not the grand- est, is among the most grotesque, of Nature's architecture hero displayed. Unlike the excavations before described, which occur at the water's edge, this has been made in the rock at a height of thirty or forty feet above the lake. The interior consists of a vaulted apartment, which has not inaptly received the name it bears. An arched roof of sandstone, from ten to twenty feet in thickness, rests on four gigantic columns of rock, so as to leave a vaulted apartment of irregular shape, about forty feet in diameter, and about the same in height. The columns con- sist of finely sti-atificd rock, and have been worn into cui-ious shapes. At the base of one of them an arched cavify or niche has been cut, to which access is had by a flight of steps formed LAKE SUPERIOR. 65 by the projecting strata. The disposition (f the whole is such as to resemble very much the 2)ulpit of a church ; since there is overhead an arched canopy, and in front an opening out toward the vaulted interior of the chapel, with a flat tabular mass in front, rising to a convenient height for a desk, while on the right is an isolated block, which not inaptly represents an altar ; so that if the whole had been adapted expressly for a place of worship, and fashioned by the hand of man, it could hai-dly have been arranged more appropriately. It is hardly possible to describe the singular and unique effect of this extraordinary structure ; it is truly a temple of nature — " a house not made with hands." " On the west side, and in close proximity, Chapel River enters the lake, precipitating itself over a rocky ledge ten or fifteen feet in height.* " It is surprising to see how little the action of the stream has worn away the rocks which form its bed. There appears to have been hardly any recession of the cascade, and the rocky bed has been excavated only a foot or two since the stream assumed its present direction. " It seems therefore impossible that the river could have had uny influence in excavating the Chapel itself, but its excavation must be referred to a period when the waters of the lake stood at a higher level. " Near the Grand Portal the cliffs are covered, in places, with an efiiorescence of sulphate of lime, in delicate crystallizations ; this substance not only incrusts the walls, but is found deposited on the moss which lines them, forming singular and interesting specimens, which however can not be transported without losing their beauty. " At the same place we found numerous traces of organic life in the form of obscure fucoidal markings, which seem to be the impressions of plants, similar to those described by Prof Hall as occurring in the Potsdam sandstone of New York. These were first noticed at this place by Dr. Locke, in 18^:7." Grand Island, 125 miles distant from the Saut, is about ten miles long and five wide, lying close in to the south shore. This is a wild and romantic island ; the cliffs of sandstone, irregular and broken into by the waves, form picturesque caverns, pillars, and arches of immense dimensions. The main shore, also in * "At this fall, according to immemorial usage among the voyageurs in ascending the lake, the mangeurs de la?-d, who make their first trip, re- ceive baptism; which consists in giving them a severe ducking — a cere- mony somewhat similar to that practiced on green-horns, when crossing the line. 6* 66 LAKE SUPERIOR. sight, presents a magnificent appearance. Here are several other small islands, and a good harbor. It is proposed to con- struct a railroad from this harbor to the head of Big Bay de Noc, the most northern arm of Green Bay, only 30 miles dis- tant, thus forming an almost direct north and south route to Chicago, etc. Makquktte, Mich., 170 miles from the Saut, is one of the most flourishing places on the borders of Lake Superior, being the shipping port of the rich iron mines, which are from four to twelve miles distant from the village. These mines yield from GO to 80 per cent, pure iron, which is exported in large quan- tities to Detroit, to Cleveland, and to Pittsburgh. A railroad extends some twelve or fourteen miles to the mines, affording the mines facilities for transporting the ore to Marquette, where is a good harbor. The village contains two churches, a large hotel, besides several taverns and stores, and about 1,000 in- habitants. A railroad will soon be constructed from this point to Little Bay de Noc, about 30 miles southeast, which, when oompletetl, will greatly facilitate the traffic in iron and copper ores, in which this whole section of country abounds, as well as with other valuable metals, precious stones, etc. LAKE SUPEEIOE lEON EEGION. "The discovery of the iron mountains and mines of Lake Superior was made in 1846, but owing to the cost of trans-ship- ment and transportation across the Portage at the Falls of St. Mary's River, but little was done to develop them until the com- pletion of the Saut Ste Marie ship canal, two years ago, which gave a new and lively impetus to the business ; and it now forms an important feature of the Lake ISuperior trade. " The mines are situated from three to sixteen miles from Marquette, a pleasant and thriving village of 1,000 inhabitants, overlooking Lake Superior, located near the mouth of Carp River, 140 miles above Saut Ste Marie. " The mine nearest to the lake is the Eureka, about two and a half miles from Marquette. The ore here is not so easily or cheaply obtained as at the Sharon or Cleveland mountains, but it is of surpassing richness, and yields an iron of the finest and LAKE SUPERIOR 67 best quality for cutlery, etc. It has not been worked so ex- tensively as the others, but it is being prosecuted with vigor. " The Jackson Iron Mountain, owned by the Sharon Company, is situated 14 miles from jMarquette ; and the Cleveland Mount- ain, owned by Wm. H. Gordon and others, of Cleveland, is two miles beyond. A plank road, laid with flat ii'on rails, is in operation from Marquette to both of these mines, and the ore i» transported in cars drawn by horses and mules. One span of horses or mules will draw a car couta'ning five tons of ore, and make one trip a day. The operative forces at each of them the present season are about equal, and they send to Marquette an aggregate of from 800 to 1,0U0 tons per week. These mount- ains rise gradually to a height of six or seven hundred feet, and are a solid mass of iron ore, yielding fi-om oO to 60 per cent, of the best iron in the world. " Two and a half miles beyond the Cleveland is the New England Iron Mountain, which is said to abound with ore of equal ricliness and quality with the others, but as the railroad is not yet completed to it, nothing has been done to develop it. A mile or two farther on we reach the Burt Iron ^Mountain ; but as they all bear so strong a resemblance to each other in quantity, quality, and richness of ores, a description of one answers for them all. That the iron of this region is inex- liaustible admits of no doubt, and that it is the richest and best in the world has been clearly proved by analysis and practical demonstration. "The associates of the late Heman B. Ely, Esq., are con- structing a substantial railroad from Marquette to the Burt Mountain, and a company has been formed to continue it on to Wisconsin State-line. Six or eight miles of tliis road is com- pleted, laid with heavy T rail, and a locomotive is running upon it. The grading is nearly completed to the Jackson Mountain, 14 miles, and the iron will be laid this fall, or early in the spring. The completion of this road will have a tendency to reduce materially the price of ore at Marquette. It is now held at $5 per ton, delivered on the wharf ; it can then be sold at S3 50, and yield as fair a profit as it now does at ;*5. " The Sharon Iron Company have expended some S300.000 in the construction of a substantial breakwater and wharf, twelve hundred feet long, at Marquette. The harbor is well protected, except against an east wind, which blows directly in ; but an expenditure of fifty thousand dollars, in extending the breakwater already constructed, would make it safe at all times. " In 1848, two years after the discovery of iron, the first bloom forge on Lake Superior wo-s built by the Jackson Iron Company. It is situated about ten miles from Marquette, in 68 LAKE SUPERIOR. the vicinity of the Jackson Mountain. It is a small affair, having only two fires, and as the machinery proved imperfect, but little has been done with it. " The second forge was built by the Marquette Iron Company in 1850, located at the village of Marquette. This had four fires, and was worked by steam. It was in successful operation about eighteen months, when it was destroyed by fire, in 1852 " The third bloomery was built, in 1853, by Mr. M'Conneil It is situated on the Dead River, six miles from Marquette, has two fires, and is worked by water-power. " The fourth and most extensive and successful bloom forge, on Lake Superior is that of the Collins Iron Company, situated on Dead Kiver, three miles from Marquette. This was com- pleted in 1855. It is worked by water-power, has eight fires, and is capable of manufacturing 2,000 tons blooms per annum. " Burt Mountain is situated seventeen miles west from the lake, and forms the present terminus of the I. M. R. R. The surface indications of the iron ore at this point are of the first class, of wliich we procured some fine specimens. It has not yet been opened, yet those who understand such matters think it will pay richly to work it. We did not find all the surface- indications, yet what we did find contained but little jasper, being mostly diamond, granulated, and slate ore. The weiglit of it quite surprised us — we took hold of a piece about eight inches square and three in thickness, thinking to lift it with one hand, but our fingers slipped off as though it had been oiled, and no attempt was made afterward to lift any but small pieces. The bed of ore which we found lay within a few feet of the railroad track, and could be loaded on to cars at a very small expense. It will probably be opened as soon as the cars are running to this point ; from this point we strike off nearly south to Lake AngeUna. " Cleveland Mountain is sixteen miles from the lake, and one mile east of the Burt Mountain. This mine is now actively worked, and sends down daily to the lake from forty to fifty tons of good ore. Mr. D. P. Moore, the foreman of the mining work, informed us they had some two hundred tons of ore ready for transportation, and were constantly gaining upon the teams that take it away. There are now about thirty men employed at this mine constantly, and additions are expected soon. It would be utterly impossible to give an adequate idea of the im- mense amount of ore at this point — it lies piled up in huge masses above the surface, and the depth of it can not be deter- mined, but probably extends farther down than ever will be dug to get it. Indeed, there is now enough upon the surface to last for ages, to say nothing of other localities, to which this is but a commencement. The miners have struck a bed of jasper, LAKK SUPEHlOn. ^9 wliei-e they are now at work, on a level with the roai, which will not be very profitabU working ; yet this is no drawback at all, for it is thought that below it is as good ore as any ob- tained, and even if there was none, there is enough above ground, which can be got out cheaper than that. This the company will probably do now, as when the work of mining shall become thoroughly systematized, the cheaper ore can be worked as profitably as the best can now. Yet this is not neces- sary, as there is an unlimited amount of ore that yields from eighty to ninety per cent, of pure iron. There seems to be no obstacle now in the way of the successful and profitable work- ing of this mine. " Jacksofi Mountain, from the lake, is fourteen miles distant, and east from the Cleveland ^lountain to the place where th^ miners are working, two miles. It will be seen at once, tiuit thousands of tons can be prepared with but little labor, when a good face is cleaned off and ready for blasting. From Mr. Zimmerman, the foreman of the mining operations, we learned that the company have eleven men now at work excavating the ore and preparing it for removal. It may not be amiss to re- mark here, that the ore is broken up into a convenient size for handling and shipping, at all the mines, before it is taken away. They have now at the mines about five hundred tons read^^ for transportation. The quantity carried to the lake as yet, this season, is small, comparatively ; but we understand the com- pany have just received a stock of mules, and will probably commence the transportation of it on a large scale very soon. Where the miners are now excavating, the surface exhibits a thin layer of slaty rock, which, being removed, shows ore of thj best quality, except in a few small veins which contain some jasper. The surface-indications upon the top of the mountain exhibit a rather large proportion of jasper ; yet where the side has been faced down it shows that it is only at the surface ; w^hat it may be on penetrating to the heart of the mountain it is impossible to conjecture. " The Eureka Mine is distant from the lake but tAvo and a half miles, and but a short distance from the railway, witii which it connects by a side track. Some difficulty has boen experienced here in getting out the ore, in consequence of the veins being imbedded in the rock, but the work of excavating iias been persevered in, until it now promises well. The ere improves as it progresses downward, and the veins grow wider. The close proximity of this mine to the lake gives it an ad- vantage over those more distant, as the cost of transportation will be materially lessened. 'I'here are many locations within the district which we passed over, that we did not visit. They are not yet opened, and we did not think it proper to describe 70 LAKK SUPERIOR th where is found copper ore and other valuable minerals, precious stones, etc. Grand Portage, Min., advantageously situated on a secure bay, near the mouth of Pigeon River, is an old station of the Ameo-ican Fur Company. Here i« a Roman Catholic Mission, a block-house, and some 12 or 15 dwellings. Mountains from 800 to 1,000 feet are here seen rising abruptly from the wat-er's edge, presenting a bold and sublime appearance. Pigeon Bay and River forms the northwest boundary between the United States and Canada, or the Hudson Bay LAKE SUPEUIOR. 81 Company's territory. Pigeon River is but, a second-class stream, and by its junction with Arrow River continues the boundary through Rainy Lake and River to the Lake of tlie Woods, where tlie 49th degree of north latitude is reached. The mouth of Pigeon River is about 48 degrees north latitude, and 89 de- grees 30 minutes west from Greenwich. Along the whole west shore of Lake Superior, from St. Louis River to Pigeon River, are alternations of metamorphosed schists and san-dstone, with volcanic grits and other imbedded traps and porphyry, with elevations rising from 800 to 1,200 feet above the lake, often presenting a grand appearance. I IE Island, lying northeast of Grand Portage, is a large island belonging to the British. Hills some 700 feet in height are here to be seen, presenting a wild and romantic appearance, being formed in part of green rock. Thunder Cape is a bold promontory on the north, rising 1,350 feet above the waters of the lake; inside of this point lies Thunder Bay, a large and picturesque sheet of water. Isle Roy ale, Houghton Co., Mich., being about 45 miles in length from N.E. to S.W., and from 8 to 12 miles in width, is a rich and important island, abounding in copper ore and other minerals, and also precious stones. The principal harbor and only settlement is on Siskoivit Bay, being on the east shore of the island, about 50 miles distant from Eagle Harbor, on the main shore of Michigan. The other harbors are — ^Washington Harbor on the south- west, Todd's harbor on the west, and Rock Harbor and Chip- pewa Harbor on the northeast part of the island. In some places on the west are perpendicular cliffe of greenstone, very bold, rising from the water's edge, while on the eastern shore conglomerate rock or coarse sandstone abounds, with occasional stony beach. On this coast are many islets and rocks of sand- stone., rendering navigation somewhat dangerous. Good fish- ing grounds abound all around this island, which will, no doubt, before many years, become a favorite summer resort for the invalid and sportsman, as well as the scientific tourist. 82 LAKE SUPERIOR. SisKowiT Lake is a considerable loody of water lying near the center of the island, -which apparently has no outlet. Other small lakes and picturesque inlets and bays abound in all parts of the island. Hills, rising from 300 to 400 feet above the waters of the lake, exist in many localities throughout the island. Fort William, an Hudson Bay Company's post, situated at the mouth of Kaministequoi River, is a very important locality. Besides the fort and Company's buildings, here is a Roman Catholic ^Mission and some 200 resident inhabitants of a mixed character, mostly in the employ of the gigantic Company, which here holds undisputed sway. Here commences the Portage road to Pembina and the Red River Settlement. The Kaministequoi River is a large and rapid stream, with a fall of about 200 feet perpendicular descent some SO miles above its mouth. Canoes descended from this point in about four hours ; but the ascent is long and tedious. The river is represented as containing many beautiful rapids and islands, also as abounding in tish of various kinds. It empties its pure waters into Thunder Bay. The scenery around Thunder Bay is very grand, the mountains, rising 1,000 feet and upward above the surface of the water, have a very imposing effect. Black Bay and Pi-iver is another important locality, being in part surrounded by high elevations, presenting a romantic and picturosque appearance. Neepigon Bay and River, situated at the north extremity of Lake Superior, is a wild and almost unknown region of country. The bay contains several islands, and the river is represented as being a large and rapid stream rising far toward the north, and from thence flowing through a wilderness of great picturesque beauty. RED RIVER OF THE NORTH. 83 EED KIYEE OF THE NOETH. This interesting section of country being closely connected •with the trade of the Upper Lakes, and attracting much atten- tion at the present time, we subjoin the following extract from " Minnesota and Dacotah," by C. C. Andrews — 1857 : "It is common to say that settlements have not been exten'led beyond Crow Wing, Min. This is only technically true. A few facts in regard to the people who live four or five hundred miles to the north will best illustrate the nature of the climate and its adaptedness to agriculture. '•Theie is a settlement at Pembina, where the dividing line between British America and the United States crosses the Red Riv«r of the North. It didn't extend there from our fron- tier, sure enough. If it extended from anywhere, it must have been from the north, or along the confines of that mystic region called Rainy Lake. Pembina is said to have about 600 inhab- itants. It is situated on the Pembina River. It is an Indian- French word meaning ' Cranberry.'' Men live there who were born there, and it is in fact an old settlement. It was founded by British subjects, who thought they had located on British soil. The greater part of its inhabitants are half-breeds, who earn a comfortable livelihood in fur-hunting and farming. It is 460 miles northwest of St. Paul, and 330 miles distant from Crow Wing. Notwithstanding the distance, there is consider- able communication between the places. West of Pembina, about thirty miles, is a settlement called St. Joseph, situated near a large mythological body of water called Muiiwakin, or Devil's Lake. " Now let me say something about this Red River of the North, for it is beginning to be a great feature in this upper country. It runs north and empties into Lake Winnipeg, wliich connects with Hudson Bay by Nelson River, It is a muddy and sluggisli stream, navigable to the mouth of the Sioux "Wood River for vessels of three feet draught for four months in the year, so that the extent of its navigation within Minnesota alone (between Pembina and the mouth of Sioux Wood River) is 400 miles. Buffaloes still feed on its western banks. Its tributaries are numerous and copious, abounding with the choicest kind of game, and skirted with a various and beauti- ful foliage. It can not be many years before this magnificent valley (together with the Saskatchawan) shall pour its pro- ducts into our markets, and be the theater of a busy and genial life. " Red River Settlement is seventy miles north of Pembina, and lie? on both sides of the river. Its population is estimated 84 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. at 10,000 souls. It owes its origin and growth to the enterprise and success of the Hudson Bay Company. Many of the settlers came from Scotland, but the most were from Canada. They speak English and Canadian French. The English style of society is well kept up, whether we regard the church with it^ bishop, the trader with his wine-cellar, the scholar with his library, the officer with his sinecure, or their paper currency. The great business of the settlement, of course, is the fur traffic. " An immense amount of buffalo skins is taken in summer and autumn, while in the winter smaller but more valuable furs are procured. The Indians also enlist in the hunts ; and it is estimated that upward of $200,000 worth of furs are an- nually taken from our territory and sold to the Hudson Bay Company. It is high time indeed that a military post should be established somewhere on Red River by our government. '• The Hudson Bay Company is now a powerful monopoly. Not so magnificent and potent as the East India Company, it is still a powerful combination, showering opulence on its members, and reflecting a peculiar feature in the strength and grandeur of the British empire — a power, which, to use the eloquent language of Daniel Webster, ' has dotted over the whole surface of the globe with her possessions and military posts, whose morning drum-beat following the sun, and keeping company with the hours, circles the earth daily with one continuous and unbroken strain of martial music' The company is growing richer every year, and its jurisdiction and its lands will soon find an availability never dreamed of by its founders, unless, as may possibly happen, popular sovereignty steps in to grasp the fruits of its long apprenticeship." The charter of the Hudson Bay Company expires, by its own limitation, in 18G0, and the question of annexing this vast domain to Canada, or forming a separate province, is now deeply agitating the Bx-itish public, both in Canada and in the mother country. THE HUDSON BAY COMPANY'S CHAETER. From a Correspondent of the Toronto Globe, dated, July, 1S56. Sir — In the year 1670 Charles the Second created nine in- dividuals a corporate body, and granted them a charter under the style and title of the " Hudson Bay Company:'' " The preamble of Uie charter sets forth, ' that whereas cer- HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 85 tain parties had at their own cost and charges undertaken an expedition for Hudson Bay, for the discovery of a new passage into the South Sea, and for finding some trade for furs, minerals, and other considerable commodities, etc. ; now know ye that we, being desirous to promote all endeavors tending to the public good and encourage the said design, have granted.' " The words of the grant are these following : " ' We do give, grant, and confirm unto the said governor and company, and their successors, the sole trade and commerce of all those seas, straits, bays, rivers, lakes, creeks and sounds, in whatsoever latitude they shall be, that lie within the entrance of the strait commonly called Hudson Strait, together with all the lands and territories upon the countries, coasts and con- fines of the seas, bays, lakes, rivers, creeks and sounds aforesaid, that are not already actually possessed by the subjects of any other Christian prince or state ; with the fishery of all sorts of fish, whales, sturgeon, and all royal fishes in the seas, bays, inlets and rivers within the premises, and the fish therein taken, together with the royalty of the sea upon the coasts within the limits aforesaid, and all mines royal as well discovered as not discovered, of gold, silver, gems and precious stones, to be found or discovered within the territories, limits and places aforesaid ; and that the said land be from henceforth reckoned and reputed as one of our plantations or colonies in America called RuperVs Land. And furthermore we do grant unto the said governor and company, and their successors, that they and their success- ors, and their factors, servants, and agents for them, and on their behalf, and not otherwise, shall forever hereafter have, uge and enjoy, not only the whole, entire and only trade and traffic, and the whole, entire and only liberty, use and privilege, of trading and trafficing to and from the territory, limits, and places aforesaid, but also the whole and entire trade and traffic to and from all havens, bays, creeks, rivers, lakes, and seas, into which they shall find entrance or passage by water or land, out of the territories, limits and places aforesaid, and to and with all nations and people inhabiting or which shall inhabit within the territories, limits and places aforesaid, and to and with all other nations inhabiting any of the coasts adjacent to the said territories, limits and places, which are not already possessed as aforesaid, or whereof the sole liberty or privilege of trade or traffic is not yet granted to any other of our subjects.' ' Who can say what constituted Rupert's Land ; or where it was supposed to be situated ? And who can undertake to ex- plain or give a true construction of the meaning of the absurdly vague and indefinite language in which the grant in question is supposed to be made } ♦' If this grant of land is worth any thing at all, or if it con- 8 bo HUDSON BAY COMPANY. veys any estate whatever to the Hudson Bay Company, it must be confined to those islands lying within the entrance of the strait, and can not be made to convey any other portion. '• The entrance of the strait is from the Atlantic, and the southern boundary of the strait is Labrador ; its coast can not be said to be within the entrance of the strait, nor can Hudson Bay, distant some 800 miles from that entrance, in the common acceptation of the term, be said to be within the entrance of the strait ; much less can the lands and shores of Hudson Bay be said to lie ivithin the entrance of the strait. " If ever the claims of the Hudson Bay Company are brought before a judicial tribunal for investigation, the interpretation which shall be given this charter (if charter it is) will be in the strictest and most limited sense, and not in the enlarged and extended one which that Company have given to it. " At all events, ' within the straif must mean such a prox- imity to the strait as would give the lands spoken of an affinity or relation to Hudson Strait, and not such lands as from their immense distance have no such geographical affinity or relation to that strait. In this case the nearest point to Hudson Bay is 700 miles, nevertheless the Hudson Bay Company set up a claim to 1,500 miles beyond this point — 2,200 miles from within the entrance of Hudson Strait. " The immense extent of country claimed is not warranted by any possible construction of the charter, and is wholly in- consistent with the objects of a trading company, who evidently are not calculated to found kingdoms or establish states and empires. " Although Henry Hudson is supposed to be the discoverer of Hudson Bay. for he sailed into the strait that now bears his name in 1610, and perished there that year, nevertheless France laid claim to all that territory as early as 1 598. In that year letters patent were granted by Henry the 4th of France to Sieur de la Koche, creating him Governor- General of Canada, Hochelaga, Terres Nueve^, Labradol", and the river of the great Bay of Norrembegue. •' On the 29th April, 1627, Louis the 13th granted a charter to a company called ' Le Compagnie de la Nouvelle France,' to which company was also ccranted the exclusive trade and jws- session of the country called La jYouvelle France, for a perfod of fifteen years. Now the boundaries of ' La Nouvelle France,' as described at that time, include the whole of Hudson Strait and Hudson Bay, and in fact all that country extending to the Pacific Ocean which the Hudson Bay Company now claim. "By the treaty of Saint Germain-en-Laye in March, 1632, Charles the 1st of England resigned to Louis the 13th of France the sovereignty of Acadia, La JVouvelle France, and Canada. HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 87 " Some time about 1G63, according to Charlevoix, a party of English advcntui-ers, guided by two French deserters, built a trading establishment on Hudson Bay, and subsequently erected two or three others. This act was regarded by France as one of usurpation, and accordingly in 1686 an expedition was sent trom Canada under the command of Chevalier de Troycs, who destroyed the establishments and drove aAvay the possess- ors, alleging that the country thus occupied by them was in the domiuious of the king of France. During the war that suijse- quently ensued between France and England, these places were taken by the English, and retained until the treaty of ilyswick in 1696. By that treaty they were again restored to France, and they remained in her possession until 1714, when by the treaty of Utrecht the whole of the Hudson Bay countries were ceded to England ; since which period the whole country has continued in her possession. " Thus it is clear that at the time when Charles made the grant to the Hudson Bay Company, it was not his to grant, even if there had been no doubt as to his power. The treaty of llysvrick actually destroyed the charter, by surrendering the country to France ; and when by the treaty of Utrecht it was ceded to England in 171-1, that country came to the crown of England clearly freed from any stipulations as to the reserva- tion of any vested or other right whatever. THE HUDSON BAT COMPANY. To the Editor of tlie Toronto Glolie : Sir — In a city paper, of the 29th ultimo, I have read with much pleasure some observations relative to the Hudson Bay Company, and the charter under which that Company assume an exclusive control over half a continent. " The period has now arrived when Canada should assert her right in relation to a matter of so important a nature, and in which her vital interests are most deeply involved. And it is time that her mercantile community should inquire by what authority it is that a company, consisting of some two hundred shareholders, in the city of London, claim the exclusive right to trade over a country extending from the coast of Labrador on the east to the Pacific Ocean on the west, and bounded on the north only by the Arctic seas ? " When we know that this community of commercial adven- turers draw their wealth and influence and power solely from the traffic carried on within this immense circuit of country, we are induced to ask, how does it happen that the mercantile 88 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. I community of Canada, living, as it were, within the Yery sphere of their action, are dead to all those commercial enterprises which, for nearly a century past, has annually poured into the coffers of this monopoly a copious shower of wealth ? " The reply probably will be, 'It is not that our merchants are unentarprisjng or unpatriotic — but as the Hudson Bay Company possess an exclusive right to trade throughout that country, all others are by law prohibited.' " ^Vhile I admit that this is the general impression, I contend that it is an impression designedly created and artfully main- tained 1^ the Hudson Bay Company, in order that they may more securely profit by the monstrous imposture. " There was a time when a company of Canadian merchants successfully disputed the assumed claims of the Hudson Bay Company. , " That which then was accomplished may now be done again. " The Northwest Company of Montreal pushed their enter- prises to an extent which this chartered one of Charles the Second had never then attempted. And the Northwest Com- pany carried these enterprises into effect at a time when the means of transport were in its very infancy. The bark canoe was the only conveyance by which merchandise was conveyed from Montreal, or by which the rich productions of even in those times the mighty West were bi'ought in return to that city. "If we draw a comparison between the manner in which that trade was carried on, and the mode in which it could now be conducted, while we can not but admire the energy and the enterprise of the merchants of that day, we must admit that those of the present time are enabled to enjoy advantages which the Northwest Company could not have dreamed of. " Where the light canoe of former times could scarcely float, or where these were obliged to discharge their cargoes and em- bark them at the extremity of some portage, ships of one thou- sand tons burden now float, and a ship navigation is now opened from Montreal to half way across the continent ; instead of the canoe timidly hugging the shores of the great lakes, the steamer and propeller are now seen mid-lake pursuing their courses, undeterred by wind or wave. " The course of trade, as conducted in those days, required two years' time to complete an order for goods sent by the trader in the West. The usual time for dispatching such orders was in the autumn, when the canoes were about to return for Mon- treal. Sometimes these orders did not arrive in time to be for- warded by the fall ships to England, in which case they had to lay over for the spi-ing ships, or rather summer. When the goods arrived in the spring at Montreal, they were then em- baiked in canoes, and reached Lake Nippising via the Ottawa HUDSON BAY COMPANY. 80 RiTer ; from Lake Nippising they reached Lake Huron by the French liiver, thence along Lake Huron to the Ste Marie Kiver to Lake Superior; and coasting Lake Superior they reached the KaminivStcquoi, up the Kaministequoi to Lac la Pluie, down Lac la Pluie and the La Pluie Paver to the Lake of the Woods, along the Lake of the AVoods to the Winnipeg, thence to Lake Winnipeg, around Lake AVinnipeg to the Saskatchawan River, by it to Cjreat Slave Lake, thence to the plains of Athabasca, and across the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific Ocean, making the distance thus traveled over 4,000 miles, and having to un- load and reload their canoes at innumarablo portages between Montreal and the place of their destination. In conducting this traffic 500 French voyageurs were employed, and in ad- dition to these were the nuuieroiis hunters and traders engaged in the service of this Company, in all, perhaps, to the number of 2,'..i00 or more. And these men were all inhabitants of Can- ada who were thus early engaged in developing the rich pro- ductions of their country, and Canada at large was benefited by the trade, for the wealth it brought was freely flung back to circulate through those various industrial pursuits of life which a trade like this had called into action. " Had the Northwest Company continued in existence, there is no doubt but the country along the great Lakes Huron and Superior would not now be the ' terra incognita' that it is ; the portals leading to the West, such as the Kaministequoi and Pigeon rivers, would not have been closed, as it were, under lock and key, but the voyageurs making these the thorouglifare of their traiiic would have speedily opened out the country to population and production, other traders or merchants would have followed in their wake, and settlements would have sprung up along the channel down which this vast and important trade was conducted, by Canadian enterprise alone. The waters and the woods that were then enlivened by the stir and bustle of these active and enterprising merchants, and cheered by the lively songs of the happy voyageur, are now silent and desert- ed ; for the whole of the trade of that western country is now directed to the shores of Hudson Bay, there to be stowed in Hudson Bay Company's ships for the city of London. " Some idea may be formed of the magnitude of the trade of the Northwest Company by these facts. In four years from the time of the formation of that Company, the net return of the profits of that year was £50,000, a sum of money which ex- ceeded the original capital invested. In three years aftervrard, the annual net profits had amounted to £150,000; and each ensuing year these profits were annually increasing, until the contests of the two companies led to open warfare, and this resulted in a union of interests. 8* 90 HUDSON BAY COMPANY. " The Hudson Bay Company, however, had in fact been driven from all commercial rivalry, and it was only when ihey found that neither fraud nor force in Canada, nor courtly favor, nor parliamentary influence in England, could succeed in driving the Northwest Company from their pretended teniture, they offered to compromise their disputes, and proposed to share with the Northwest Company of Montreal their imaginary privileges, in order that all other adventurers to that country should be excluded a participation in the spoils. " It was thus that the Hudson Bay Company bribed the rivals whom they could not defeat, and the Northwest Company sub- scribed to the existence of claims or rights which they had heretofore defied and disputed, fortified by the opinions of such men as Lord Brougham, Sir Vickery Gibbs, Sir Arthur Pigot, Mr. Sponkic, Mr. Braidoft, and others. " Had the Hudson Bay Company dared to test the validity of their charter in a court of law, it would have been proclaimed to the world that every British subject had a right to trade and traffic, unfettered and uncontrolled, throughout that coun- try, for that the Royal Charter under which the Hudson Bay Company claimed exclusive privileges there was illegal, was null and void. " By changing the route of transport to and from the West, the shorter and better one, via the Lakes, became unfrequented, and its very existence almost forgotten, and the now limited companies traded without the apprehension of exciting the rivalry of others. " Tlieir trade was kept a secret — no one witnessed the pass- age of imports upward, nor the productions downward from hunting-grounds, claimed by a company irresponsible to any law, or to any country. So secret even now are all the opera- tions of that Company, that the furs taken within ninety miles of Penetanguishene are transported to Lake Superior, thence to Hudson Bay for shipment to London. " The very productions of our own country are sold here in Toronto, after having been purchased at the Hudson Bay House in liOndon by our merchants. " The very employes of the Hudson Bay Company, who are engaged in the Orkney Islands at low wages, are taken to Lake Superior via Hudson Bay, lest these men should learn that they could engage elsewhere at higher wages, which they would do if taken to Lake Superior via the St. Lawrence route. Within these few years past, since the mining interests have awakened attention to Lake Superior, these men frequently leave the em- ployment of the Hudson Bay Company, and such acts are de- nominated by the Company's agents ' desertion,' and they are often arbi larily impi-isoned. I HUDSON BAT COMPANY. 91 *' With this introduction, which is very far from being such as the merits of the subject require, let me now ask your read- ers to take the map of North America, trace the lines of that section of British North America styled Canada, containing about 350,000 square miles, then compare it with that which is denominated the Territories of the Hudson Bay Company, this portion will be found to comprise about four millions of square miles, and to this must be added very large portions of Canada whitth for years past have been subjected to the despotic control and blighting influences of t'lis monstrous monopoly. " Two hundred stockholders in London, without a single bond or tie of any nature to the true interests of Canada, claim to hold four millions of square miles in British America as their hunting-grounds. Of these four millions of square miles, one million four hundred thousand abound in all those mate- rials v.irlch can contribute to agricultural and to natural wealth. Before, however, entering upon the subject of the capabilities and advantages which those sections of our coun- try for agricultural, mechanical, and mercantile pursuits pos- sess, I propose to show what, in fact, is this supposed charter of the Hudson Bay Company Huron." " Iltrnsoiv B.\Y, or Sea, was discovered by Henry Hudson in 10 10. It is about 900 miles in length, by 600 at its greatest breadth, with a surrounding coast of 3,000 miles. It lies be- tween the parallels of 51° and 05° north latitude, and in ex- tent is about six times as large as Lake Superior. The coasts are generally high, rocky, rugged, and sometimes precipitous. The bay is navigable for a few months in summer, but for the greater part of the remainder of the year is filled up with fields of ice. The transitions of the thermometer in summer are from 100° to 40*^ in two days, and the torrents of rain are sur- prising ; the range of the thermometer throughout the year is 140°. The sea is entered by Hudson Strait, on the northeast, which is about 500 miles long, with a varying breadth, and wiih an intricate navigation obstructed by several islands. The principal bays and inlets in this great inland sea are, James' Bay, on the southeast, which is ^40 miles long by 140 wide ; Button s Bay and Port Nelson on the western coast, and Ches- terfield Inlet on the northwest, which, after stretching far into the interior, terminates in a fresh-water lake." — Hudson Bay Ttrritones, by R. M. Martin, Esq. 02 LAKE SUPERIOR. \ Ste loNACE Island is a large and bold extent of land lying on the north shore of Lake Superior, forming, with other islands, the outward barrier to Neepigon Bay. Here may be seen mountains rising from 1,000 to 1,300 feet above the lake. Cop- per and other minerals abound in this region. The Slate Islands, lying east of Ste Ignace, are also largo bodies of land, lying some 10 or 12 miles south of the main shore, -which is bold and procipitous, and supposed to abound with copper ore and other minerals. Pic Island and River lie still farther east. At the mouth of the river is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company. This is a large stream, affording six feet of water over the bar at its mouth. MiCHipicoTEN Island is a large and bold body of land ; in some places the surface rises 800 feet above the waters of the lake. The shores abound with greenstone and amygdaloid, while in the interior is found copper and silver ores. Here was located the Lake Superior Silver Mining Company of Canada. MiCHiPicoTEN Harbor and River is another favorable and important locality. The river is navigable to the falls, 15 miles. It rises near the source of Moose River, which empties into James' Bay. In this vicinity are found iron and copper ore of good quality. At the mouth of the river is situated a post of the Hudson Bay Company, from whence the Portage road extends northAvard about 300 miles to James' Bay, on the south end of Hudson Bay. This road has been traveled in six days from Lake Superior to Moose Fort, situated on James' Bay, although the usual time is from eight to ten days. A chain of forts or trading-houses is passed along this line, situated for the most part on Moose River, emptying into the head of James' Bay, near 52° N. lat. The time, no doubt, will soon arrive, when the Canadian public will claim this route for the purpose of trade and commerce, it forming a most direct communication between the Arctic Ocean, Hudson Bay, Lake Superior, and the lower lakes. I LAKE SUPERIOR. 93 Montreal Island and River is another locality south of Michipicoten, which abounds in minerals of different kinds. Caribou is a small island lying about 30 miles south of Michipicoten, near the middle of the lake. It is usually passed in sight when the steamers return along the north shore on pleasure excursions In order to give an idea of these magnificent excursions, we copy the following advertisement which appeared in a Cleveland paper in August, 1856 : Two Grand Pleasure Excursions aroinid Lake Superior. The new, staunch, upper-cabin and low-pressure steamer Planet, Capt. Joseph Nicholson, will make two pleasure excur- sions to Lake Superior, as follows : First. — Leave Cleveland on Monday, August 18th, and De- troit on Tuesday, August 19th. Second. — Leave Cleveland on Thursday, August 28th, and Detroit on Friday, August 29th ; touching at Mackinac, passing through the Saut Ste Marie Canal, and also pass in view the Pictured Rocks and Grand Island by daylight; visit Marquette (the iron region), Cop- per Harbor, Eagle Harbor, Eagle River, Ontonagon (the copper region). La Pointe (the fairy region) — thence passing over to Pigeon Bay, Prince's Bay, Pie Island, and Isle Royale, on the north shore, and returning by the south shore. A fine view of the Michipicoten and Caribou islands is also obtained. The Planet is new, 1,200 tons burden, low-pressure engine of 1,000 horse-power; has an upper cabin 210 feet long, and splendid accommodations for 300 passengers, but on these trips, that they may be in fact, as well as in name. Pleasure Excur- sions, the number will be limited to 17o. A good band of music will be in attendance to enliven the scene, and no expense will be spared to make these excursions the most agreeable that have been made to Lake Superior. The price of tickets for the excursion round will be Forty Dollars from Cleveland, and Thirty-six Dollars from Detroit. Those wishing to remain over one trip can do so, and return the second trip d the Pla)ict, without extra charge. E. B. Ward, Detroit, 94 LAKE SUPERIOR. NOETHERJ^i SHORE OF LAKE SUPERIOR. Extract from Report on the Geology of tlie Lake Su"perior Country, by Foster and Whitt"? ey : XoRTHERX Shore. — " Beginning at Pigeon Bay, the bound- ary between tlie United States and the British Possessions (north latitude 48°), we find the eastern portion of the penin- sula abounds with bold, rocky cliffs, consisting of trap and red granite. "The Falls of Pigeon Pviver, eighty or ninety feet in height, are occasioned by a trap dyke which cuts through a series of slate rocks highly indurated, and very similar in miner alogical characters to the old graywacke group. Trap dykes and in- tevlaminated masses of traps were observed in the slate near the falls. " The base of nearly all the ridges and cliffs between Pigeon Eiver and Fort William (situated at the mouth of Kaministequoi River, the western boundary of Upper Canada) is made up of these slates, and the overlaying trap. Some of the low islands exhibit only the gray grits and slates. Welcome Islands, in Thunder Bay, display no traps, although, in the distance, they resemble igneous products, the joints being more obvious than the planes of stratification, thus giving a rude semi-columnar aspect to the cliffs. " At Prince's Bay, and also along the chain of islands which lines the coast, including Spar, Victoria, and Pie islands, the slates with the crowning traps are admirably displayed. At the British and North American Company's works the slates are traversed by a heavy vein of calc-spar and amethystine quartz, yielding gray sulphuret and pyritous copper and galena. From the vein where it cuts the overlaying trap on the main shore, considerable silver has been extracted. " At Thunder Cape, the slates form one of the most pictur- esque headlands on the whole coast of Lake Superior. They are made up of variously colored beds, such as compose the up- per group of Mr. Logan, and repose in a nearly horizontal po- sition. These detrital rocks -attain a thickness of nearly a tliousand feet, and arc crowned with a sheet of trappean rocks, three hundred feet in thickness. " At L'Anse a la Bouteille (opposite the Slate Islands, on the north shore of Lake Superior) the slates re-appear, with the granite pi'otruding through them, and occupy the coast for fif- teen miles; numerous dykes of greenstone, bearing east and west, are seen cutting the rocks vertically. The Slate Islands form a part of this group, and derive their name from their geological structure LAKE SUPERIOR. 95 " They are next seen, according to Mr. Logan, for about seven miles on each side of the Old Pic River. Near Otterhead a gneissoidal rock forms the coast, which presents a remarkable regular set of strata, in -which the constituents of syenite are arranged in thin sheets and in a highly crystalline condition. From this point to the Michipicoten River the slates and gran- ite occupy alternate reaches, along the coast, for the distance of fifty miles. ' With the exception of a few square miles of the upper trap of gargantua, these two rocks appear to hold the coast all the way to the vicinity of Pointe aux Mine, at the extremity of which they separate from the shore, maintaining a nearly straight southeasterly line across the Batchewanung Bay, leaving the trap of Mamainse between them and the lake. Thence they reach the northern part of Goulais Bay, and finally attain the promontory of Gros Cap, where they consti- tute a moderately bold range of hills, running eastwardly toward Lake Huron.' "* FISHEEIES OF LAKE SUPEEIOR. Good fishing-grounds occur all along the north shore of Lake Superi-or, afibrding a bountiful supply of white fish, jNIackinac trout, and many other species of the finny tribe. On the south shore there are fisheries at White Fish Point, Grand Island, near the Pictured Rocks, Keweenaw Point, La Pointe, and Apostles' Islands, and at different stations on Isle Royale, where large quantities are taken and exported; but there are no reliable statistics as to the number of men employed or the number of barrels exported. Between the head of Keweenaw Point and the mouth of the Ontonagon River, considerable quantities of fish are taken, for which there is a ready market at the mining stations. In addition to the white fish and Mackinac trout, the siskawit is occasionally taken. Its favorite resort, however, is the deep water in the vicinity of Isle Royale. Lake Superior Trout-I*ishing in Winter. — The Lake Superior Journal says : *•' Angling through the ice to a depth of thirty fathoms of * Canadian Keport, 1S46-T. 96 LAKE SUPERIOR. water is a novel mode of fishing somewhat peculiar to this peculiar region of the world. It is carrying the war into fish- dom with a vengeance, and is denounced, no doubt, in the com- munities on the bottom of these northern lakes as a scaly piece of warfare. The large and splendid salmon- trout of these waters have no peace ; in the summer they are enticed into the deceitful meshes of the gill -net, and in the winter, when they hide themselves in the deep caverns of the lakes, with fifty fathoms of water above their heads, and a defense of ice two or three feet in thickness on the top of that, they are tempted to destruction by the fatal hook. " Large numbers of these trout are caught every winter in this way on Lake Superior ; the Indian, always skilled in the fishing business, knows exactly where to find them and how to kill them. The whites make excursions out on the lake in pleasant weather to enjoy this sport. There is a favorite resort for both fish and fishermen near Gros Cap, at the entrance of Lake Superior, through the rocky gateway between Gros Cap and Point Iroquois, about 18 miles above the Saut, and many a large trout, at this point, is pulled up from its warm bed at the bottom of the lake, in winter, and made to bite the cold ice in this upper world. To see one of these fine fish, four or five feet in length, and weighing half as much as a man, floundering on the snow and ice, weltering and freezing to death in its own blood, oftentimes moves the heart of the fisherman to expres- sions of pity. " The modus operandi in this kind of great trout-fishing is novel in the extreme, and could a stranger to the business over- look at a distance a party engaged in the sport, he would cer- tainly think they were mad, or each one making fuot-races against time. A hole is made through the ice, smooth and round, and the fisherman drops down his large hook, baited with a small herring, pork, or other meat, and when he ascer- tains the right depth, he waits — with fisherman's luck — some time for a bite, which in this case is a pull altogether, for the fislierman throws the line over his shoulder, and walks from the hole at the top of his speed till the fish bounds out on the ice. We have known of as many as fifty of these splendid trout caught in this way by a single fisherman in a single day ; it is thus a great source of pleasure and a valuable resource of food, especially in Lent, and the most scrupulous anti-pork believers might here ' iown pork and up fish' without any offense to con- science." CHICAGO. The City of Chicago is advantageously situated on the west pide of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of Chicago River, in N. lat. 41° 52', and W. long, from Greenwich 87° 35'. It is ele- vated six to eight feet above the lake, which secures it from ordinary floods, and extends westward on both sides of the river, about two miles distant from its entrance into Lake Michigan, the front on the lake being three or four miles from n-orth to south. The harbor has a depth of from twelve to four- teen feet of water, which makes it a commodious and safe haven ; and it has been much improved artificially by the con- struction of piers, which extend on each side of the entrance of the river for some distance into the lake, to prevent the accu- mulation of sand upon the bar. The light-house is on the south side of the harbor, and shows a fixed light on a tower forty feet above the surface of the lake ; there is also a beacon-light on the end of the pier. In a naval and military point of view, this is one of the most important ports on the upper lakes, and should be strongly defended, it being the " Odessa" of these inland seas. The city contains a court-house, the county buildings, Rush Sledical College, a commercial college, a marine hospital, a United States land-ofiice, market houses, sixty churches, eight banks, several fire and marine insurance companies, and a number of large hotels ; gas-works, and water- works. The manufacturing establishments of Chicago are numerous and extensive, consisting of iron-foundries and machine shops, rail- road car manufactory, steam saw, planing, and flouring mills, manufactories of agricultural implements, etc. Numerous steamers and propellers ply between this place and Saut Ste Marie, Lake Superior ports, CoUingwood, Detroit, Buffalo, and the various intermediate ports. Es-timated population in 1856, 100,000. 9 98 CHICAGO. The nii7iois and Michigan Canal, connecting Lake Michign.t with Illinois River, which is 60 feet Tvide at the top, 6 feet deep and 107 miles in length, including five miles of river navigation, terminates here, through -which is brought a large amount of produce from the south and southwest ; and the numerous rail- roads radiating from Chicago add to the vast accumulation which is here shipped for the Atlantic sea-board. Chicago being within a short distance of the most extensive coal-fields to be found in Illinois, and the pineries of Mchigan and Wis- consin, as well as surrounded by the finest grain region on the face of the globe, makes it the natural outlet for the varied and rich produce of an immense section of fertile country. EAILEOADS DIVERGIXG FKOM CHICAGO. Miles. 1. Chicago and Milwaukee 85 2. Chicago, St. Paul and Fond du Lac* 3(10 3. Fox Hiver Valley and Wisconsin Central* 75 4. Galena and Chicago Ujiion, (to Dunleith) 188 Beloit Branch, and Beloit and INIadison. 5. Chicago, Fulton and Iowa Air Line 136 6. Chicago, Burlington and Quincy 210 7. Chicago and Rock Island 182 8. Chicago, Alton and St. Louis 21^0 9. Illixois Central — Chicago Branchf 305 10. Pittsburgh, Fort Wayne and Chicago* 470 11. Cincinnati, Peru and Chicago* 87 12. ^Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana 247 13. Michigan Central (and New Albany and Salem) 282 Total 2,"'97 * Unfinished railroads. t At this time the Illinois Central Eailroad is the means of oonnectinj? Chicago with Cairo and St. Louis on the south, and with Galena and Dunleith on the west, forming a total line of road of 722 miles, as follows ILLINOIS CENTRAL BAILEOAD— AND ITS BEANCHES. Cairo to Lasalle— Main Line 308 miles. Lasalle to Dunleith— Galena Branch 147 " Chicago to Centralia— Chicago Branch 267 " Total 722mUep. CHICAGO. 09 PEOGRESS OF CHICAGO AND THE GEEAT WEST. " Twenty years ago the city of Chicago, Illinois, was an in- significant town at the southei'n end of Lake Michigan ; now, her granaries, her storehouses, her railroad depots, and her private dwellings are scarcely surpassed by those of any city in the Union for their solidity, enormous dimensions, and their unexampled cost, giving evidence of rapid wealth, caused by h-er lake commerce and her railroad concentrations, " The ' Btmocratic Press' of that city has just made up its annual statistical statement of the progress of Chicago, and from it we copy the annexed statistics, which the editor says may be relied on. It is headed ' Fifth annual review of the prospects, condition, trafi&c, etc., of the railroads centering in Chicago, with a general summary of the business of the city for 1850.' GENERAL. SUMMARY. Total number of miles of railway in the State of Illinois now in operation 2,761 Increase in 1856 351 Increase in the State in five years (over 500 miles per year) 2,666 Total earnings of all the railways centering in Chi- cago for the year 1856 $17,843,242 Increase of 1856 over 1855 $4,045,041 Population of Chicago in 1850 29,963 " in 1852 38,783 " in 1854 74,500 " " in 1855 82,750 " January 1, 1857 (estunated) 110,000 T-otal receipts of grain in Chicago for the year 1855, bushels 20,487,953 Total receipts of grain, being the largest primary grain port in the world, for the year 1856 (in- crease in 1856 over 20 per cent.), bushels 24,674,824 Total shipments of grain from the port of Chicago for the year 1856, bushels 21,583,221 Total amount of corn received in 1856, bushels 11,888,398 Total amount of wheat received in 1856, bushels . . 9,392,365 Total number of hogs, alive and dressed, received in Chicago for 1855-56 308,539 Total number of shipments, alive and dressed 170,831 Averaging the weight at only 200 pounds, and the price at $5 per hundred, the value of the hogs received would be $3,585,880 \umber of barrels o* beef packed in 1856 33,038 100 CHICAGO. Receipts of lumber at the port of Chicago for the year 1856, being the largest lumber market in the world, feet 456,673,169 Receipts of lead for the year 1856, pounds 9,527,506 Now laid up in the port of Chicago, steamers and sail vessels 245 Total number of vessels arriving in Chicago for the year 1856 7,828 Total tonnage of vessels arriving in this port for the year 1856 1,545,379 Amount of imposts received at the Chicago custom- house on foreign goods for the past year $102,994 Total amount of capital invested in manufactures during the year 1856, showing an increase of $1,464,400 over 1855 $7,759,400 Total number of hands employed, showing an in- crease over 1855 of 1,838 10 Total value of manufactured articles, showing an increase of $4,483,572 $15,515,063 Total amount invested during the year 1856 in im- provements, stores, dwellings, hotels, etc., show- ing an increase over 1855 of 81,973,370 $5,708,624 Total number of passengers carried west by four principal railways leading out of Chicago 639,666 Total number remaining west above those who re- turned on these four lines 107,653 Total number of passengers moved on all the roads centering in Chicago 3,850,000 " The editor remarks, in conclusion : ' The total movement on the principal railway lines centering at Chicago would be about 3,350.000 passengers. " The above facts and figures will be regarded with special satisfaction by all our citizens, and by the people of the North- west generally. They show a healthy, but rapid and most astonishing progress. It may be doubted whether the whole history of the civilized world can furnish a parallel to the vig- orous growth and rapid development of the country which has Chicago for its commercial metropolis. "When it is remembered that twenty years ago she was not an incorporated city, and less than a quarter of a century since the Indians still had possession of the largest portion of this magnificent country, these facts, stubborn and incontestable though they be, seem more like the dreams of some vagrant imagination than sober matters of reality, which scores of men still among us have themselves seen and realized." PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN. 101 PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN LYING ON THE EAST AND SOUTH SHOKES. Michigan City, Iiid., situated at the extreme south end of Lake Michigan, is distant 45 miles from Chicago by water, and 228 miles from Detroit by railroad route. The JVew Albany and Salem Railroad, 228 miles in length, terminates at this place, connecting with the Michigan Central Railroad. Soy- eral plank roads also terminate here, affording facilities for crossing the extensive prairies lying in the rear. Here fi.re several large storehouses situated at the mouth of Trail Creek, intended for the storage and shipment of wheat and other pro- duce; 15 or 20 stores of different kinds, several hotels, and a branch of the State Bank of Indiana. It was first settled in 1831, with the expectation that it would become a great em- porium of trade ; but owing to the want of a good harbor, and the rapid increase of Chicago, the expectation of its founders have not been realized. It now contains about 3,000 inliab- itants, and is steadily increasing in wealth and numbers. New Buffalo, Mich., lying 50 miles east Chicago by steam- boat route, is situated on the line of the Michigan Central Rail- road, 218 miles west of Detroit. Here has been erected a light- house and pier, the latter affording a good landing for steamers and lake craft. The settlement contains two or three hundred inhabitants, and several stores and storehouses. It is sur- rounded by a light, sandy soil, which abounds all along the east and south shores of Lake Michigan. St. Joseph, Berrien Co., Mich., is advantageously situated on the east shore of Lake Michigan, at the mouth of St. Joseph River, 194* miles west of Detroit. Here is a good harbor, afford- ing about 10 feet of water. The village contains about 1,000 inliabitants, and a number of stores and storehouses. An active trade in lumber, grain, and fruit is carried on at this place, mostly with the Chicago market, it being distant about 70 miles by water. Steamers of a small class run from St, 9* 102 PORTS OF LAKE MICHIGAN. Joseph to Nilcs and Constantine, a distance of 120 miles, to which place the St. Joseph River is navigable. Stages also run to Niles and Dowagiac, connecting with trains on the Michigan Central Railroad. St. Joseph River rises in the southern portion of ]Michigan and Northern Indiana, and is about 250 miles long. Its general course is nearly westward ; is very serpentine, with an equable current, and flowing through a fertile section of country. There are to be found several flourishing villages on its banks. The principal are Constantine, Elkhart, South Bend, Niles, and Berrien. Niles, situated on St. Joseph River, is 26 miles above its mouth by land, and 191 miles from Detroit by railroad route. This is a flourishing village, containing about 3,000 inhab- itants, five churches, three hotels, several large stores and flour- ing mills ; the country around producing large quantities of wheat and other kinds of grain. A small class of steamers run to St. Joseph below and other places above, on the river, afford- ing great facilities to trade in this section of country. The Ports extending from Grand Haven to Saginaw Bay are fully described in another portion of this work, as well as the bays and rivers falling into Lakes Michisran and Hnror. TRIP FROM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. Os starting from the steamboat wharf near the mouth of the Chicago River, the Marine Hospital and depot of the Illinois Central Railroad are passed on the right, while the Lake House and lumber-yards are seen on the left or north side of the stream. The government piers, long wooden structures, afford a good entrance to the harbor; a light-house has been con- structed on the outer end of the north pier, to guide vessels to the port. The basin completed by the Hlinois Central Railroad to facili- tate commerce is a substantial work, extending southward for near half a ^lile. It affords ample accommodation for loading and unloading vessels, and transferring the freight to and from the railroad cars. The number of steamers, propellers, and sailing vessels annually arriving and departing from the harbor of Chicago is very great ; the carrying trade being destined to increase in proportionate ratio with the population and wealth pouring into this favored section of the Union. On reaching the green waters of Lake IMichigan, the city of Chicago i.s seen stretching along the shore for four or five miles, presenting a fine appearance from the deck of the steamer. The entrance to the harbor at the bar is about 200 feet wide. The bar has from ten to twelve feet water, the lake being sub- ject to about two feet rise and fall. The steamers bound for Milwaukee and the northern ports usually run along the west shore of the lake within sight of land, the banks rising from thirty to fifty feet above the water.* * The thermometer stood at 70° Fahrenheit, Sept. 26, 1854, the day being thick and foggy with little or no wind. 104 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. Lake Michigan is about seventy miles average wicith, and 340 miles in extent from Michigan City, Ind., on the south, to the Strait of Mackinac on the north ; it presents a great exj^anse of water, now traversed by steamers and other vessels of a large class running to the Saut Ste Marie and Lake Superior ; to Collingwood, Can. ; to Detroit, Mich..; to Cleveland Ohio ; and to Buffalo, N. Y. From Chicago to Buffalo the distancs is about 1,000 miles by water; while from Chicago to Superior City, at the head of Lake Superior, or Fond du Lac, the dis- tance is alx)ut the same, thus affording two excursions of 1,000 miles each over four of the great lakes or inland seas of America, in steamers of from 1,000 to 2,000 tons burden. During the summer and early autumn months the waters of this lake are comparatively calm, affording safe navigation. But late in the year, and during the winter and early spring months, the navigation of this and the other great lakes is very dan- gerous. Waukegan, Lake Co., 111., 36 miles north of Chicago, is hand- somely situated on elevated ground, gradually rising to 50 or 60 feet above the water. Here are two piers, a light-house, several large storehouses, and a neat and thriving town containing about 6,000 inhabitants, six churches, a bank, several well-kept hotels, thirty stores, and two steam-flouring mills. Kenosha, Wis. , 52 miles from Chicago, is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the lake. Here is a small harbor, a light-house, storehouses, mills, etc. The town has a population of about 5,000 inhabitants, surrounded by a fine back country. Here is a good hotel, a bank, several churches, and a number of stores and manufacturing establishments doing a large amount of business. The Kenosha and Beloit Railroad, when finished, will connect at the latter place with a railroad running to Madi- son, and thence to the jNIississippi River. The City of Racine, Wis., 02 miles from Chicago and 25 miles south of ^Milwaukee, is built on an elevation some forty or fifty feet above the surface of the lake. It is a handsome iind flourishing place. Here is a light-house, piers, storehouses. CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 105 etc. , situated near the water, while the city contains some fine public buildings and private residences. The population is about 9,000, and is rapidly increasing. Eacine is the second city in the State in commerce and population, and possesses a fine harbor. Here are located the county buildings, fourteen churches, several hotels, and numerous stores of different kinds. The Racine and Mississippi Railroad, extending from this place to Beloit, 68 miles, will be continued to the Mississippi River at Savanna. The Chicago and Milwaukee Railroad also runs through the town. The City of Milwaukee, Wis., 86 miles from Chicago, by railroad and steamboat route, is handsomely situated on rising ground on both sides of the Milwaukee River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan. In front of the city is a bay or indentation of the lake, aflfbrding a good harbor, except in strong easterly gales. The harbor is now being improved, and will doubtless be rendered secure at all times of the season. The river affords an extensive water-power, capable of giving motion to ma- chinery of almost any required amount. The city is built upon beautiful slopes, descending toward the river and lake. It has a court-house, city hall, a United States land-oflSce, the Uni- versity Institute, a college for females, three academies, three orphan asylums, thirty churches, several well-kept hotels, ex- tensive ranges of stores, and several large manufacturing estab- lishments. The city is lighted with gas, and well supplied with good water. Its exports of lumber, agricultural produce, etc., are immense, giving profitable employment to a large number of steamers and other lake craft, running to different ports caa the upper lakes, Detroit, Buffalo, etc. The growth of this city has been astonishing ; twenty years since its site was a wilder- ness ; now it contains over 30,000 inhabitants, and of a class in- ferior to no section of the Union for intelligence, sobriety, and industry. The future of Milwaukee it is hard to predict ; here are cen- tering numerous railroads finished and in course of construc- tion, extending sou ^,h to Chicago, west to the Mississippi River, 106 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MAKIE. and north to Lake Superior, which in connection with the De- troit and Milwaukee Railroad, terminating at Grand Haven, 80 miles distant by water, and the lines of steamers running to this port, will altogether give an impetus to this favored city, blessed with a good climate and soil, which the future alone can reveal. During the past year an unusual number of fine buildings have been erected, and the commerce of the port has amounted to $60,000,000. The bay of :\mwauke8 offers the best advant- ages for the construction of a harbor of refuge of any point on Lake Michigan. The city has expended over $100,000 in the oonstruction of a harbor ; this needs extension and completion, which will no doubt be effected. Port Washington, Ozaukee Co., Wis., 25 miles north of Milwaukee, is a flourishing place, and capital of the county. The village contains besides the public buildings, several churches and hotels, twelve stores, three mills, an iron foundry, two breweries and other manufactories. The population is about 2,500. Here is a good steamboat landing, from which large quantities of produce are annually shipped to Chicago and other lake ports. The unfortunate steamer Niagara, while on her passage from CoUingwood to Chicago, was destroyed by fire off Port Wash- ington in September, 1850, whereby sixty lives were lost Sheboygan, Wis., 50 miles north of Milwaukee and 130 miles from Chicago, is a thriving place, containing about 5,000 inhabitants. Here are seven churches, several public houses and stores, together with a light-house and piers ; the harbor being improved by government works. Large quantities of lumber and agricultural products are shipped from this port. The country in the interior is fast settling with agriculturists, the soil and climate being good.* A railroad is about being con- Btructed from this place to Fond du Lac, 42 miles west, lying * September L'7. 1S54, the theraiomcter stood at CO^ Falir., with a light wind from the north. CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 107 at the head of Lake Winnebago ; also, another railroad to extend to Milwaukee on the south and Green Bay on the north- west. ^Ian-itouwoc, "Wis., 70 miles north of Milwaukee and 33 miles east from Green Bay, is an important shipping port. It contains about 2,500 inhabitants ; five churches, several public houses, twelve stores, besides several storehouses ; three steam saw-mills, two ship-yards, light-house, and pier. Large quan- tities of lumber are annually shipped from this port. The har- bor is being improved so as to afford a refuge for vessels duriiig stormy weather. The west bank of Lake Michigan is here elevated about 60 or 80 feet, presenting a rough appearance in many places, with sundry bluffs rising from the water's edge to the level of the country, above which it is clothed with heavy timber of different kinds. " ]\Lanitouwoc is the most northern of the harbors of Lake Michigan improved by the United States government. It de- rives additional importance from the fact that, when completed, it will afford the first point of refuge from storms for shipping bound from any of the other great lakes to this or to the most southern ports of Lake Michigan." Two Rivers, Wis., eight miles north from Manitouwoc, is a new and thriving place at the entrance of the conjoined streams (from which the place takes its name) into Lake Michigan. Two piers are here erected, one on each side of the river ; also a ship-yard and three steam saw-mills. The village contains about 2,000 inhabitants. This section of country, extending back to Green Bay, abounds in good timber, which is prepared and shipped to Chicago and other ports. Fish are taken in large quantities, and sent to different markets. Kewaunee, Wis., 25 miles north of Two Eivers and 102 miles from Milwaukee, is a small shipping town, where are situated several saw-mills and lumber establishments. Green Bay is situated about 25 miles due west from this place. From Manitouwoc and Two Rivers, in a northerly direction, the country is still, for the most part, a wild wilderness, in- 108 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. habited sparsely by Indians of different tribes. The following is an extract from the Manitouwoc Tribune of March, 1857 : EOMAXCE OF THE FOEEST. " Some months since we gave the particulars of a horrible occurrence which happened in our immediate neighborhood, rivaling in interest the thrilling story of the eagle's victim, on the mountain of Switzerland No traces of the child which the bear carried off in such a daring manner have as yet been found ; but the excitement which such an incident awakens is gradually dying away, and is now replaced by that of one of more recent date, scarcely less thrilling in its detail. " Last week a Mr Woodward, living near Sandy Bay, had some difficulty with an Indian. The next day his little girl, three years of age, was standing near the house, when an In- dian sprang out of the thickets, and clasped her in his arms, and bounded away through the underbrush. Pursuit was com- menced immediately, but up to Saturday without success, though information had been received which, it was hoped, would lead to the recovery of the child — an Indian and a squaw having been seen the day after the abduction carrying a child wliich was closely wrapped in a blanket, and was crying bitterly." On leaving Two Rivers, the steamers usually run for the Manitou Islands, Mich., a distance of about 100 mi es. Soon after the last vestige of land sinks below the horizon on the west shore, the vision catches the dim outline of coast on the east or Michigan shore at Point aux Betsie, which is about GO miles south of the Great INIanitou Island. From this point, passing northward by Sleeping Bear Point, a singular shaped headland looms up to the view. It is said to resemble a sleep- ing bear. The east shore of Lake Michigan presents a suc- cession of high Sand-banks for many miles, while inland are numerous small bays and lakes. Little, or South Maistitoit Island, 250 miles from Chicago and 100 miles from Mackinac, lies on the Michigan side of the lake, and is the first island encountered on proceeding north- ward from Chicago. It rises abruptly on the west shore 2 or 300 feet frcm the water's edge, sloping toward the east shore, on which is a light-house and a fine harbor. Here steamers Btoo for wood. The Great or North Manitou is nearly twice CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. l09 as large as the former island, and contains about 14,000 acres of land. Both islands are settled by a few families, whose principal occupation is fishing and cutting wood for the use of steamers and sailing vessels. Fox Islands, 50 miles north from South Manitou, consist of three small islands lying near the middle of Lake Michigan, which is here about 60 miles wide. On the west is the entrance to Green Bay, and on the east is the entrance to Grand Trav- erse Bay, and immediately to the north is the entrance to Lit- tle Traverse Bay. Great and Little Beaver islands, lying about midway between the Manitou Islands and Mackinac, are large and fer- tile bodies of land, and are at present occupied by Mormons, who have here their most eastern settlement. Garden and Hog islands are next passed before reaching the Strait of Mackinac, which, opposite Old Fort Mackinac, is about six miles in width. The site of Old Fort Mackinac is on the south main or Michigan shore, directly opposite Point Ste Ignace, on the north main shore. St. Helena Island lies at the entrance of the strait from the south, distant about fifteen miles from Mackinac. Old Fort Mackinac is an important and interesting loca- tion ; it was formerly fortified and garrisoned for the protection of the strait and this section of country when inhabited almost exclusively by various tribes of Indians. This place can bo easily reached by sail- boat from the island of Mackinac. Pte la Gros Cap, lying to the west of Old Fort Mackinac, is a picturesque headland well worthy of a visit. The Strait of MACKryAC is from five to twenty miles in width, and extends east and west about thirty miles, embosoming several important islands besides INIackinac Island, the largest being Bois Blanc Island, lying near the head of Lake Huron. Between this island and the main north shore the steamer Garden City was wrecked. May 16, 1854 ; her ,upper works were still visible from the deck of the passing steamer in the fall of the same year 10 110 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MAKIE Grosse Ile St. Martin and He St. Martin lie "within the waters of the strait, eight or ten miles north of the island of Mackinac. In the neipjhborhood of these different islands are the favorite fishing-grounds both of the Indian and the " pale face." The town and fortress of Mackinac is most beautifully situ- ated on the east shore of the island, and extends for a distance of about one mile along the water's edge, and has a fine harbor protected by a water battery. This important island and fortress is situated in N. lat. 45° 54', W. Ion. 84° 30' from Greenwich, being seven degrees thirty minutes west from Washington. It is 350 miles north from Chicago, 100 miles south of Saut Ste Marie by the steamboat route, and about 300 miles northwest from Detroit. Fort Mackinac stands on elevated ground, about 200 feet above the water, overlooking the pictur- esque town and harbor below. In the rear, about half a mile distant, stands the ruins of old Fort Holmes, situated on the highest point of land, at an elevation of about 350 feet above the water, affording an extensive view. The town contains two churches, two hotels, ten or twelve stores, 100 dwelling-houses, and about 600 inhabitants. The climate is remarkably healthy and delightful during the summer months, when this favored retreat is usually thronged with visitors from different parts of the Union, while the Indian warriors, their squaws and their children, are seen lingering around this their favorite island and fishing-ground.* The island of Mackinac, lying in the Strait of Mackinac, is about three miles long and two miles wide. It contains many deeply interesting points of attraction in addition to the village and fortress ; the principal natural curiosities are known as the Arch Rock, Sugar Loaf, Lover's Leap, Devil's Kitchen, Robin- son's Folly, and other objects of interest well worthy the atten- tion of the tourist. The Mission House and Grove House are the principal hotels. * Sept. 28, 1854, the thermometer stood at 50° Fahr. Very pleasant weather with light wind, not having seen a wave br^^k for two days. CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. Ill ISLAND OF MACKINAC. The view given represents the Island, approaching from the eastward. " A cliff of limestone, white and weather-beaten, with a narrow alluvial plain skirting its base, is the first thing which commands attention ;" but, on nearing the harbor, the village (2), with its many picturesque dwellings, and the fort- ress (3), perched near the summit of the Island, are gazed at with wonder and delight. The promontory on the left is called the " Lover's Leap ' (1), skirted by a pebbly beach, extending to the village. On the right is seen a bold rocky, precipice, called '• Eobi?iso?i's Folly" (5), while in the same direction is a singular peak of nature called the " Sugar Loaf." Still far- ther onward, the " Arched Rock" and other interesting sights, meet the eye of the explorer, affording pleasure and delight, particularly to the scientific ti-aveler and lover of nature. On the highest ground, elevated about 350 feet above the waters of the Strait, is the signal station (4), situated near the ruins of old Fort Holmes. The settlement of this Islj^nd was commenced in 1764. In 1793 it was sm*rendered to the American government; taken by the British in 1812 ; but restored by the treaty of Ghent, signed in November, 1814. ^i Arched Kccx — Mackinac. CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 113 The wliole island of Mackinac is deeply interesting to the scientific explorer, as well as to the seeker of health and pleas- ure. The following extract, illustrated by an engraving, is copied from " Fostkr and Whitney's Geological Reporf of that region : " As particular examples of denuding action on the island, we would mention the ' Arched Rock' and the ' Sugar Loaf.' The former, situated on the eastern shore, is a feature of great interest. The cliffs here attain a height of nearly one hundred feet, Avhile at the base are strewn numerous fragments which have fallen from above. The Arched Rock has been excavated in a projecting angle of the limestone clifi", and the top of the span is about ninety feet above the lake-level, surmounted by about ten feet of rock. At the base of a projecting angle, which rises up like a buttress, there is a small opening, through which an explorer may pass to the main arch, where, after clambering over the steep slope of debris and the projecting edges of the strata, he reaches the brow of the cliff. " The beds forming the summit of the arch are cut off from direct connection with the main rock by a narrow gorge of no great depth. The portion supporting the arch on the north side, and the curve of the arch itself, are comparatively fragile, and can not, for a long period, resist the action of rains and frosts, which, in this latitude, and on a rock thus constituted, produce great ravages every season. The arch, which on one side now connects this abutment with the main cliff, will soon be destroyed, as well as the abutment itself, and the whole be precipitated into the lake. " It is evident that the denuding action, producing such an opening, with other attendant phenomena, could only have operated while near the level of a large body of water, like the great lake itself; and we find a striking similarity between the denuding action of the water here in time past, and the same action as now manifested in the range of the Pictured Rocks on the shores of Lake Superior. As an interesting point in the scenei-y of this island, the Arched Rock attracts much atten- tion, and in every respect is worthy of examination." ( i^ee Engravins;.) Other picturesque objects of great interest, besides those enumerated above, occur at every turn on roving about this enchanting island, where the pure, bracing air and clear waters afford a pleasurable sensation, difi&cult to be described, unless visitied and enjoyed. 10* 114 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. Round Island is a small body of land lying a short distance southeast of Mackinac, while Bois Blanc Island is a large body of land lying still farther in the distance, at the head of Lake Huron, here about 30 miles wide, which width it aver- ages for about 50 miles, when it widens to 100 miles and up- ward. Point de Tour, 40 miles east from Mackinac, is the site of a light-house and settlement, at the entrance of St. Marj^'s River, which is here about half a mile in width ; this passage is also called the West Channel. At a distance of about two miles above the Point is a new settlement, where has been erected a steamboat pier, a hotel, and several dwellings. Drummond Island, a large and important body of land belonging to the United States, is passed on the right, where is to be seen the ruins of an old fort erected by the British. On the left is the mainland of Northern Michigan. Ascending St. Mary's River next is passed Round or Pipe Island, and other smaller islands on the right, most of them belonging to the United States. On Drummond Island is said to exist a fine and valuable quality of stone, as will be seen by the following extract : " A correspondent of the New Haven Journal denies the ac- curacy of the assertion that the deposit of lithogrnphic stone lately found in Kentucky is the first discovery of that species of stone in the United States. The writer says that he obtained a specimen of the same kind of stone in 1825 at Drummond Island, at the entrance of the strait between Lakes Huron and Superior, where the supply was apparently inexhaustible. The stone was carried to Boston and tested by a lithographer, who said it was equal, if not superior, to the German stone. At that time, however, Drummond Island was far less accessible than Germany, and the discovery was, therefore, of no prac- tical value." St. Joseph Island, 10 miles above Point de Tour, is a large and fertile island belonging to Canada, which is more fully described on page 43. It is about 20 miles long from east to west, and about 15 miles broad, covered in part with a heavy growth of forest trees. Here is seen the ruins of an old .fort CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 115 erected by the British on a point of land commanding the chan- nel of the river. Cakltonville is a small settlement on the Michigan side of the river, 12 miles above the De Tour. Here is a steam saw- mill and a few dwelling-houses. Lime Island is a small body of land belonging to the United States, lying in the main channel of the river, about 12 miles from its mouth. The channel here forms the boundary between the United States and Canada. Mud Lake, as it is called, owing to its waters being easily riled, is an expansion of the river about five miles wide and ten miles long, but not accurately delineated on any of the modern maps, which appear to be very deficient in regard to St. ]\Iary's River and its many islands — presenting at several points most beautiful river scenery In the St. Mary's River there are about 60 islands belonging to the United States, be- sides several attached to Canada. Nebish Island and Sailor's Encampment, situated about half way from the Point to the Saut, are passed on the left while sailing through the main channel. Sugar Island, a large body of fertile land belonging to the United States, is reached about 30 miles above Point de Tour, situated near the head of St. Joseph Island. On the right is passed the British or A'orth Channel, connecting on the east with Georgian Bay. Here are seen two small rocky islands belonging to the British Government, which command both channels of the river. The JVehish Rapids are next passed by the ascending vessel, the stream here running about five knots per hour. The main land of Canada is reached immediately above the rapids, being clothed with a dense growth of forest trees of small size. To the north is a dreary mlderness, extending through to Hudson Bay, as yet almost wholly Unexplored and unknown, except to the Indian or Canadian hunter. Lake George, twenty miles below the Saut is another ex- pansion of the river, being about five miles wide and eight miles 116 CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. long. Here the channel is only from eight to ten feet in depth for about one mile, forming a great impediment to navigation. Church's Landing, on Sugar Island, twelve miles below the Saut, is a steamboat landing ; opposite it is Squirrel Island, belonging to the Canadians. This is a convenient landing, where is situated a store and dwelling. The industrious occupants are noted for the making of raspberry jam, which is sold in large quantities, and shipped to Eastern and Southern markets. Garden River Settlement is an Indian village ten miles be- low the Saut, on the Canadian shore. Here is a missionary church and several dwellings, surrounded by grounds poorly cultivated, fishing and hunting being the main employment of the Chippewa Indians who inhabit this section of country. Both sides of the river abound in wild berries of good flavor, which are gathered in large quantities by the Indians, during the summer months.* Extract from a letter dated Saut Ste Marie, Sept., 1854 : " The scenery of the St. Mary's River seems to grow more attractive every year. There is a delicious freshness in the countless evergreen islands that dot the river in every direction from the Falls to Lake Huron, and I can imagine of no more tempting retreats from the dusty streets of towns, in summer, than these islands; I believe the time will soon come when neat summer cottages will be scattered along the steamboat route on these charming islands. A summer could be delight- fully spent in exploring for new scenery and in fishing and sail- ing in these watei's. " And Mackinac, what an attractive little piece of terra firma is that island — half ancient, half modern ! The view from the fort is one of the finest in the world. Perched on the brink of a precipice some two hundred feet above the bay — one takes in at a glance from its walls the harbor, with its numerous boats and the pretty village ; and the whole rests on one's vision more like a picture than a reality. Every thing on the island is a curiosity ; the roads or streets that wind around the harbor or among the grove-like forests of the island are naturally pebbled and macadamized ; the buildings are of every style, from an Indian lodge to a fine English house. ' The island is covered with charming natural scenery, from the pretty to the grand, and ♦ Sept. 80, 1854, the thermometer stood at 42^ Fahr., at the Saut Ste Marie, in the n:f3rning, a fine day for the season, with little or no wind. CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 117 one may spend weeks constantly finding new objects of interest and new scenes of beauty. It is unnecessary to particularize — every visitor will find them, and enjoy the sight more than any description. " The steamers all call there, on their way to and from Chicago, and hundreds of small sail vessels, in the fishing trade, have here their head-quarters. Drawn upon the pebbled beach or gliding about the little bay are bark canoes and the far-fained " Mackinac boats," without number. These last are the perfec' tion of light sail-boats, and I have often been astonished at see- ing them far out in the lake beating up against winds that were next to gales. Yesterday the harbor was thronged with sail- boats and vessels of every description, among the rest were the only two iron steamers that the United States have upon all the lakes, the " Michigan" and the " Surveyor," formerly called the " Abert," employed in the coast survey. " For a wonder. Lake Huron was calm and at rest for its en- tire length, and the steamer Northerner made a beautiful and quick passage from Mackinac to this place. The weather con- tinues warm and dry, and hundreds are regretting they have so early left the Saut and Mackinac, and we believe you will see crowds of visitors yet. Jay." 118 LAKE HURON. A SUNDAY ON LAKE HUEON. During the autumn of 1856 the steamer Illinois arrived at Saut Ste Marie on Saturday evening, on her return from a trip through Lake Superior, having proceeded to La Pointe, situated on one of the " Twelve Apostles," and thence crossed over to the extreme western shore of the lake, near the mouth of Pigeon River, returning along the north or Canada shore to the Saut, with a pleasure party on board. While the steamer was detained at the wharf, below the mouth of the ship canal, most of the passengers, and many of the citizens of this ancient and romantic village, together with a few Canadians from the opposite shore, amused themselves by music and dancing ; while not a few drank deep from the in- toxicating bowl. This scene of pleasure was kept up until near midnight, when, one by one, the passengers retired to their rest, and the villagers bade adieu to their new-made and old ac- quaintances. The next morning the steamer was coursing her way through the pure and lovely waters of the St. Mary's River, with every appearance of a fine day. After passing Sugar Island, the Nebish Rapids, and the island of St. Joseph, and entering the broad waters of Lake Huron, a most beautiful view was pre- sented to our gaze. In the rear was seen the entrance to the De Tour passage, just passed, and the British island of St. Joseph — on the north lay Drummond Island, attached to the stars and stripes, although bearing a foreign name — while in the far distance southward were seen the romantic island of Mackinac and the main shore of Michigan. At this time, the hour of breakfast having passed, the Rev. Mr. , an Episcopal minister from Ontonagon, Mich., was invited to read the church service and preach a sermon, for the benefit of the passengers on board, among whom were persons of different creeds and nations. Never was a discourse more appropriately selected, or received with more devout attention, LAKE HURON. 119 considering the mixed, and mostly strange, persons assembled in the after-cabin. The lake, when seen, presented a serene and quiet calmness, alone disturbed by the powerful machinery propelling us through the waters at a most rapid rate ; while the sentiments and rich melody of the speaker's voice lent a charm to the scene never to be forgot by many then present. Thus should it al- ways be on a Sabbath, while journeying over these magnificent waters, if the weather will permit — blending serious thoughts with the most grand and lovely objects of nature — that pro- duced by the view of land and water, as seen at times on the great lakes of North America. A bounteous dinner was next served up, affording delight to those blessed with good appetites ; while every passenger, male and female, seemed to enjoy the scenery that during the entire day was visible from the deck of the steamer. Thunder Bay, Saginaw Bay, and Point au Barque were passed in succession — the mainland on the Canada or Michigan shore being, for most of the time, seen in the far distance ; while occasionally the smoke of a passing steamer or a sail vessel caught the eye, silently gliding over the broad waters of Lake Huron. Were it not for the almost criminal carelessness or reckless- ness of many of the owners and masters of steamers navigating these lakes, whereby hundreds of valuable lives have been lost and millions of property destroyed, no more safe, instructive, or grand excursion could be found on the face of the globe. 120 STEAMBOAT ROUTE. STEAMBOAT EOUTE FEOM CHICAGO TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MAEIE. PASSING THROUGH LAKES MICHIGAN AND HURON. Ports, etc. MUes. Ports, etc. MUes. Chicago, El Saut Ste Marie Waukegan 36 Garden River Set 10 Kenosha, Wis 52 Church's Landing, ) Sugar Island, 5 14 Racine 62 Milwaukee 86 Nebish Rapids 25 Port. Washington 111 St. Joseph Is., C. W. ... 26 Sheboygan 136 Point De Tour 50 Manitouwoc 156 Mackinac, Is. and town 95 Two Rivers 173 Old Fort Mackinac Hog and Garden Islands 105 Kewaunee, (25 miles) . . . 120 South Manitou Is. Mich. 250 Great Beaver Is 130 North Manitou Is 260 Fox Islands 145 Fox Islands 300 315 North Manitou Is South Manitou Is 185 Great Beaver Is 195 Hog and Garden Islands 325 Kewaunee, Wis Old Fort Mackinac 340 JTwo Rivers 272 Mackinac* Is. and town 350 Manitouwoc 289 Point De Tour 395 Sheboygan 309 St. Joseph Is., C. W. ... 400 Port Washington 334 Nebish Eapids, } Sugar Island, INIich. 5 420 Milwaukee 359 Racine 383 OhuTch's Landing 431 Kenosha 393 Garden Eiver Set., C. W. 435 Waukegan, HI 409 Saut Ste Marie, Mich. 445 Chicago 445 Usual Fare, $8, including meals. Usual Time, 48 hours. * The steamers runnins: from Detroit and Collingwood to Green Bay and Chicago all stop at this port. STEAMBOAT ROUTE. 121 STEAMBOAT EOUTE FEOM SAUT STE MAEIE TO DETEOII^ PASSING THROUGH LAKES HURON AND ST. CLA.R. Ports, etc. Saut Ste Marie. . . Garden River Set., C Church'' s Landing. . Lake George Nebish Rapids St. Joseph Is., C.W.. Mud Lake Lime Island, Mich. . . Drummond Island . . . Point Be Tour Lake Huron, Mackinac, (40 miles) . Presque Isle Thunder Bay Is Saginaw Bay Point au Barque St. Clair River Fort Gratoit, Port Huron, Mich. Port Sarnia, C. W. St. Clair, Mich Newport Algonac St. Clair Lake Detroit River Detroit W. Miles. 10 14 20 24 25 30 43 48 50 105 135 190 210 277 294 304 310 313 343 350 Ports, etc. Detroit Lake St. Clair .... St. Clair Flats Algonac Newpori; St. Clair Port Sarnia, C. W. Port Huron, Mich. Fort Gratiot, ■) Lake Huron, 5 Point au Barque. . . . Saginaw Bay Thunder Bay Is Presque Isle, Mackinac, (70 miles) Point De Tour, St. Mary's River, Drummond Island . St. Joseph Island, C Lime Island Mud Lake Sugar Island Lake George Churches Landing . . . . , Garden River Set., C.W Saut Ste Marie W, Miles. t 30 40 46 55 75 140 150- 215 245 300 302 310 312 820 325 330 336 340 350 Fare, $7, including meals. 11 Usual Time, 30 hours. TRIP FROM DETROIT TO MACKINAC AXD SAUT STE MARIE, PASSIXG THROUGH LAKE HURON. During the season of navigation, steamers of a large class, vrith good accommodations for passengers, leave Detroit almost daily for Mackinac, for Green Bay, for Chicago, situated on Lake Michigan, or for the Saut Ste Marie ; from thence passing through the ship canal into Lake Superior, forming delightful excursions during the summer and the early autumn months. On leaving Deti'oit the steamers run in a northerly direction, passing Belle, or Hog Island, two miles distant, which is about three miles long and one mile broad, presenting a handsome ap- pearance. The Canadian shore on the right is studded with dwellings and well-cultivated farms. Peche Island is a small body of land attached to Canada, lying at the mouth of Detroit River, opposite which, on the Michigan shore, is Wind Mill Point and light-house. Lake St. Clair commences seven miles above Detroit; it may be said to be 20 miles long and 25 miles wide, measuring its length from the outlet of St. Clair River to the head of De- troit River. Compared with the other lakes it is very shallow, having a depth of only from 8 to 2-4 feet, as indicated by Bay- field's chart. It receives the waters of the Upper Lakes from the St. Clair Strait by several channels forming islands, and discharges them into the Detroit River or Strait. In the upper portion of the lake are several extensive islands, the largest of which is Walpole Island ; it belongs to Canada, and is inhab- ited mostly by Indians. All the islands to the west of Walpole Mand belong to Michigan. The Walpole, or " Old Ship Chan- nel," forms the boundary between the United States and Can- ada. The main channel, now used by the larger class of ves- sels, is called the " North Channel." Here are passed the '• St. Clair Flats," a great impediment to navigation, for the removal DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 123 of wliich Congress will no doubt make ample appropriation sooner or later. The northeastern channel, separating Walpole Island from the main Canada shore, is called " Chenail Ecarte." Besides the waters passing through the Strait of St. Clair, Lake St. Clair receives the river Thames from the Canada side, which Ls navigable to Chatham, some 24 miles ; also the waters of Clin- ton River from the west or American side, the latter being navigable to Mt. Clemens, Michigan. Several other streams flow into the lake from Canada, the principal of which is the River Sydenham. Much of the land bordering on the lake is loAV and marshy, as well as the islands ; and in places there are large plains which are used for grazing cattle. Ashley, or New^ Baltimore, situated on the N.W. side of Lake St. Clair, 30 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourishing place, and has a fine section of country in the rear. It contains three steam saw-mills, several other manufactories, and about 1,000 inhabitants. A steamboat runs from this place to Detroit. Mt. Clemens, Macomb Co., Mich., is situated on Clinton River, six miles above its entrance into Lake St. Clair, and about 30 miles from Detroit by lake and river. A steamer plies daily to and from Detroit during the season of navigation. Mt. Clemens contains the county buildingg, several churches, three hotels, and a number of stores and manufacturing establish- ments, and about 2,500 inhabitants. Detroit is distant by plank-road only 20 miles. Chatham, C. W., 46 miles from Detroit by railroad route, and about 24 miles above the mouth of the river Thames, which enters into Lake St. Clair, is a port of entry and thriving place of business, where have been built a large number of steamers and sail- vessels. Algonac, Mich., situated near the foot of St. Clair River, 40 miles from Detroit, contains a church, two or three saw- mills, and about 600 inhabitants Newport, Mich., seven miles farther north, is noted for steamboat building, there being extensive ship-yards, where aro annually employed a large number of workmen. Here are fom 124 DETROIT TO MACKINAC ATsD SAUT STE MAEilE. steam saw-mills, machine shops, etc. Population about fcOO. Belle River here enters the St. Clair from the west. St. Clair Strait connects Lake Huron with Lake St. Clair, and discharges the surplus waters of Lakes Superior, Michigan, and Huron. It flows in a southerly direction, and enters Lake St. Clair by six channels, the north one of which, on the Mich- igan side, is the only one at present navigated by large vessels in ascending and descending the river. It receives sevei-al tributaries from the west, or Michigan ; the principal of which are Black River, Pine River, and Belle River, and several rivers flow into it from the east, or Canadian side. It has several flourishing villages on its banks. It is 48 miles long, from a half to a mile wide, and has an average depth of from 40 to 50 feet, with a current of three miles an hour, and an entire de- scent of about 1 5 feet. Its waters are clear and transparent, the navigation easy, and the scenery varied and beautiful — forming, for its entire length, the boundary between the United States and Canada. The banks of the upper portion are high ; those of the lower portion are low, and in parts inclined to be marshy. Both banks of the river are generally well settled, and many of the farms are beautifully situated. There are several wharves constructed on the Canada side, for the con- venience of supplying the numerous steamboats passing and re- passing with wood. There is also a settlement of the Chippewa Indians in the township of Sarnia, Canada ; the Indians reside in small log or bark houses of their own erection. St. Clair, Mich., is pleasantly situated on the west side of St. Clair Strait, 56 miles from Detroit and 14 miles from Lake Huron. This is a thriving place, with many fine buildings, and is a great lumber depot. It contains the county buildings for St. Clair Co., several churches and hotels, one flouring mill, and five steam saw-mills, besides other manufacturing establishments, and about 3,000 inhabitants. St. Clair has an active business in the construction of steamers and other lake craft. The site of old Fort St. Clair, now in ruins, is on the border of the village • DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT Sip MARIE. 125 SouTHERLAND, C. W., is a Small village on the Canada shore, opposite St. Clair. It was laid out in 1833 by a Scotch gentle- man of the same name, who here erected an Episcopal church, and made other valuable improvements. Moore, C. "W., is a small village ten miles below Port Sarnia Fromefield, or Talfourd's, C. W., is another small village, handsomely situated four and a half miles below Port Sarnia Here is an Episcopal church, a wind-mill, and a cluster of dwellings. Port Sarnia, C. "W., 68 miles from Detroit, is an important place and port of entry, handsomely situated on the east bank of the river St. Clair, opposite Port Huron on the American shore, and near the foot of Lake Huron. It now contains about 2,500 inhabitants, and is the proposed terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway of Canada, which wiU afford a speedy com- munication with Hamilton, Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, and Quebec. Steamers run from Port Sarnia to Goderich, and different places on the Upper Lakes, and to Detroit, etc. Port Huron, St. Clair Co., Mich., is very advantageously situated on the west bank of the river St. Clair, at the mouth Df Black River, two miles below Lake Huron and 68 miles from Detroit by water. It contains several churches, two or three public houses, fifteen stores, one steam flour ing-mill, four steam saw-mills, and several other manufacturing establishments. Population about 3,000. It is an important depot for lumber, fish, etc. A railroad is to be constructed from Port Huron to Corunna and Grand Rapids, connecting with the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad ; another railroad will extend to Detroit, thus forming a direct route from Lake Huron to Lake Michigan, and to Toledo, Cincinnati, etc. During the season of navigation there is daily intercourse by steamboat with Detroit. Fort Gratoit, two miles above Port Huron, is situated at the foot of Lake Huron, at the commencement of the St. Clair Strait. It was built in 1814, at the close of the war with Great Britain, and consists of a stockade, including a magazine, bar- racks, and other acconunodations for a garrison of one bat- 11* 126 DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. talion. It fully commands the entrance to Lake Huron, from the American shore, and is an interesting landmark to the mariner. Point Edward, on the opposite Canadian shore, is a military reserve, where is usually stationed a small British force. It also commands the entrance tc Lake Huron. In the vicinity is an excellent fishery, where upward of 1,000 barrels of fish are annually taken and exported. During the season of navigation, steamers run daily from Detroit to Port Sarnia, Goderich, Saugeen, and other ports in Canada West. Bayfield, 108 miles from Detroit, is a new and flourisliing place, situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. GoDERiCH, 120 miles north of Detroit, is situated on elevated ground at the mouth of Maitland Paver, where is a good har- bor. This is a very important and growing place, where will terminate the Buffalo and Huron Railroad, 160 miles in length. (See page mo.) Kincardine, thirty miles from Goderich, is another port on the Canadian side of Lake Huron, where the British steamers land and receive passengers on their trips to Saugeen. Satjgeen, C. W., is situated at the mouth of a river of the same name, where is a good harbor for steamers and lake craft. This is the most northern port to which steamers now run on the Canada side of Lake Huron, and will no doubt, ere long, be reached by railroad. Lake Huron, off the mouth of Saginaw Bay, presents a wide expanse of waters, attaining its greatest width after passing Point au Barque ; the steamer usually takes a northerly direc- tion for many miles, when running toward the Strait of Mack- inac. On the east lies the Canada shore and Georgian Bay. FoRRESTviLLE, Mich., 120 miles north of Detroit, situated on the west side of Lake Huron, is a new settlement, where is erected an extensive steam saw-mill. It has some three or four hundred inhabitants, mostly engaged in the lumber trade. A steamer runs from Detroit to this landing, which is distant 47 miles from Port Huron. DETROIT TO MACKINAC AND SAUT STE MARIE. 127 SAGxtvAw Bay is a very large body of water, it being about 30 miles wide and 60 miles long, penetrating far into the lower peninsula of Michigan. There are several islands near the center of the bay and along its eastern shore ; while dif- ferent kinds of fish are taken from its waters in large quanti- ties. Saginaw River, flowing into the head of the bay, is a large and navigable stream, draining a rich section of country. Lower Saginaw, near the mouth of the river, is a flourish- ing settlement, from whence a large amount of lumber is an- nually exported. Sagixaw City, Saginaw Co., Mich., is handsomely situated on the left bank of the river, 23 miles above its mouth. It contains a court-house and jail, several churches, two hotels, 15 stores, two warehouses, and six steam saw-mills. Population about 4,000. There is a fine section of country in the rear of Saginaw, much of which is heavily timbered ; the soil produces grain in abundance, while the streams afford means of easy transportation to market. Steamers run daily from Saginaw City to Detroit, during the season of navigation. East Saginaw, situated on the right bank of the river, about one mile below Saginaw City, is a new and flourishing place, also largely engaged in the lumber trade, where are located several extensive steam saw-mills and other manufac- turing establishments. The other important points passed on a trip from Detroit to Mackinac or the Saut Ste Marie are Thunder Bay Island and light, and Presque Isle, on the Michigan shore; while the Great Manitoulin Island, Great Duck Island, and Cockburn Island are on the Canada side. If the steamer is bound for ]\Iackinac, a westerly course is pursued after passing Presque Isle light until Bois Blanc Island is reached and passed, the steamer then gliding through the Strait of Mackinac, where the water-surface narrows to the width of about 20 miles. BAYS AND RIYERS-SOIL, CLIMATE, ETC., OF THE LOWEE PEKIXSULA OF MICHIGAN. The Lower Peninsula of Michigan is nearly surrounded by the waters of the Great Lakes, and, in this respect, its situa- tion is naturally more favorable for all the purposes of trade and commerce than any other of the Western States. The numerous streams which penetrate every portion of the peninsula, some of which are navigable for steamboats a con- siderable distance from the lake, being natural outlets for the products of the interior, render this whole region desirable for purposes of settlement and cultivation. Even as far north as the Strait of Mackinac, the soil and climate, together with the valuable timber, offer great inducements to settlers ; and if the proposed railroads, under the recent grant of large portions of these lands by Congress, are constructed from and to the differ- ent points indicated, this extensive and heavily timbered region will speedily be reclaimed, and become one of the most sub- stantial and prosperous agricultural portions of the West. It is well that in the system of compensation, which seems to be a great law of the universe, the vast prairies which comprise so large a portion of this great Western domain are provided so well with corresponding regions of timber, affording the necessary supply of lumber for the demand of the increasing population which is so rapidly pouring into these Western States. The State of Michigan — all the waters of which flow into the basin of the St. Lawrence — Northern Wisconsin, and Minnesota are the sources from which the States of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, and Iowa, and a large portion of the prairie country west of the Mississippi, must derive their supply of this important article (lumber). The quantity of pine lumber manufactured in Michigan alone * BAYS, RIVERS, FTC. OF MICHIGAN. 1*29 is estimated for the past year to amount to nearly one thousand millions of feet. The amount sold in Chicago in 1856 was up- ward of 450 millions, at an average price of, say $14 per thousand. This great commodity is to a considerable degree undervalued. The supply in the West is now equal to the demand, but the consumption is so great, and the demand so constantly increas- ing with the development and settlement of the country, that of necessity, within comparatively a very few years, these vast forests will be exhausted. It is estimated that in ten years a very large proportion of the pine timber, accessible to navigable streams, will be consumed. But as the timber is exhausted the soil is prepared for cultivation, and a large portion of the north- ern part of the southern peninsula of Michigan will be settled and cultivated, as it is the most reliable wheat-growing portion of the Union, Natural points for harbors are found at the mouths of nearly all the large streams in the State. Besides the ports and towns already described, there are on Lake Huron, after leaving Sag- inaw Bay going north, several settlements and lumber estab- lishments, fisheries, etc. These are at Sauble River, Black River, and Devil River. At Thunder Bay a very flourishing town is being built up, with a superior water-power on the river. This is the county seat of Alpena County. The next important point on the coast is Cheboygan River. The U. S. Land OflSce for this district is located here, at a small town on the bay called Duncan. This point is nearly opposite the isl- and of Mackinac. Passing around the western extremity of the peninsula, at the Waugoshance Light and Island, the next point is Little Traverse Bay. This is the terminus of the Amboy and Trav- erse Bay Railroad. About fifteen miles southwesterly from Little Traverse we enter Grand Traverse Bay, a large and beautiful arm of the lake, extending about thirty miles inland. This bay is divided into two parts by a point of land from two to four miles ^ide 130 BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. extending from the head of the bay about eighteen miles toward the lake. The country around this bay is exceedingly pictur- esque, and embraces one of the finest agricultural portions of the State The climate is mild, and fruit and grain of all kinds suitable to a nortnern latitude are produced, with less liability to in- jury from frost than in some of the southern portions of the State. Large quantities of these lands have been located, and sev- eral settlements and towns are rapidly growing up. Grand Traverse City is located at the head of the west arm of the bay, and is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Grand Rap- ids, a distance of about 140 miles. Passing out of the bay and around the point dividing the west arm from the lake, we first arrive at the river Aux Bees Sceis. There is here a natural harbor, capable of accommoda- ting the larger class of vessels and steamboats. A small settle- ment has been commenced at this place, but with its natural advantages, and the capital and enterprise of parties who now contemplate making further improvements, it will soon become a very desirable and convenient point for the accommodation of navigators. The islands comprising the Beavers, the Manitous, and Fox isles should here be noticed. The Beavers lie a little south of west from the entrance to the Strait of Mackinac, the Mani- tous a little south of these, and the Fox's still farther down the lake. These are all valuable for fishing purposes, and for wood and lumber. Lying in the route of all the steamboat lines from Chicago to Buffalo and the Upper Lakes, the harbors on these islands are stopping-points for the boats, and a profit- able trade is conducted in furnishing the necessary supplies of wood, etc. The settlement of Mormons on the Big Beaver Island has recently been abandoned, and the people have mostly dispersed. We next arrive SitMa7iistee, a small but important settlement at the mouth of the ]\Ianistee River. The harbor is a natural BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. 131 one, but requires some improvement. A large trade is carried on "with Chicago in lumber. The river passes through a fine pine district, and is one of the largest in the State. The next point of importance is the mouth of the Pere Mar- quette River. Here is the terminus of the proposed railroad from Flint, in Genesee County, connecting with Detroit by the Detroit and Milwaukee Railway, a distance of about 180 miles. The harbor is very superior, and the country in the vicinity is well adapted for settlement. About 16 miles in the interior is situated one of tfee most compact and extensive tracts of pine timber on the western coast. About forty miles south of this, in the county of Oceana, a small village is located at the mouth of White River. The harbor here is also a natural one, and the region is settled to considerable extent by farmers. Lumber is, however, the prin- cipal commodity, and the trade is principally with the Chicago market, TJie next point is Muskegon, at the mouth of the Muskegon River. It is supported principally by the large lumber region of the interior. Numerous steam saw-mills are now in active operation here, giving the place an air of life and activity. The harbor is one of the best on the lake, and is at present accessible for all the vessels trading between jNIuskegon and Chicago. A small steamboat runs up the Muskegon River about forty miles to J\^ewaygo, the capital of Newaygo County. This village is in a beautiful region of farming country, and also in close proximity to the extensive pineries stretching along the valley of the river. One of the largest lumber mills in the State, running 114 saws, is in operation at this place. About seventy millions of feet of lumber are manufactured annually on this river. Grand Haven, Ottawa Co., Mich , is situated on both sides of Grand River, at its entrance into Lake Michigan, here eighty miles wide ; on the opposite side lies Milwaukee, Wis. The dif- ferent settlements comprising Grand Haven contain about 5,000 inhabitants. Here is a court-house and jail, two churches, six 132 BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. hotels and taverns, a number of stores ; eight large steam saw- mills, pail and tub factories, a foundry and machine shop, and other manufacturing establishments. Steamers run from Grand Haven to Chicago, to Milwaukee, and also to other ports on Lake Michigan. Steamers also run from Grand Haven to Grand Rapids, about forty miles up the river, bringing down immense quantities of lumber and produce. Above Grand Rapids, where is a fall of twenty-two feet, steam- ■ ers run to Lyons, about sixty miles distant, where steamboat navigation ceases. ^ The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad, when finished, will extend from Detroit to Grand Haven, 185 miles, running foi most of the distance through a rich section of country. It wili form a through line of travel, by means of steamers across the lake to Milwaukee, and through Wisconsin to the Mississippi River and the Far West. Grand Rapids, situated forty miles above Grand Haven, although in her teens, can truly assume the title of a city. With a busy, enterprising population of more than 8,000, and rapidly increasing, possessing a water-power unequaled by any in the State, affording to manufacturers and others tempting inducements ; surrounded by a new, fertile, and rapidly improv- ing country, it can not fail shortly to become one of the most prominent cities in the Northwest. " Extensive and inexhaustible beds of gypsum, a valuable and almost indispensable soil-fertilizer in any country^ are found ^ near this place. Building stone of good quality, easily attaina- \ ble, as well as other desirable building materials, are abundant, | and much in requisition, of which fact there is sufficient satis- j factory evidence in the noble structures to be seen here, both . of stores and dwellings, many of which e\ince good taste and . correct architectural judgment. I was credibly informed that there were mercantile houses, in this remote city, doing business to the extent of one to two hundred thousand dollars each, year- ly. It is confidently expected that the Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad will be completed and in operation from Detroit to this place during the summer of 1857. This road extends through an exceedingly rich agricultural section; that portion :ying be- tween the eastern bound of Shiawassa County and Grand BAYS, RIVERS, ETC., OF MICHIGAN. 133 Rapids may safely be classed as the very best in the whole State, and I "will venture the assertion that a very few years only will be required to demonstrate the truth of this, in the large amount of its surplus products seeking a market eastward, through the agency of this railroad." The Grand River Pineries. — " Up in the northern part of the Grand River valley, and along and beyond the Muskegon River, an immense amount of pine timber is to be found. The mills upon the Muskegon River are, most of them, of later date than those of Grand River, and some of them are the finest in the world. One of the mills upon Grand River is so complete an automatic machine that it draws up and arranges its own logs, feeds them to any required thickness of boards, gigs back and sets itself, carries off and piles up the lumber, registers the number of boards cut — all by the aid of the most simple and beautiful machinery. " At a low estimate," says the Grand Rapids Enquirer, from which we gather these facts, " the value of this trade foots up between five and seven millions of dollars. There is every pros- pect that these figures will be largely increased in ensuing years, there being thousands of acres of better pine lands than have yet been cut, yet lying untouched, north of these two rivers." The following table shows, to some extent, the amount of lumber business now done on the Grand and Muskegon rivers and their tributaries : Number of saw-mills on Grand and ^Muskegon rivers and their tributaries Ho (These mills run from 1 to 130 saws each.) Amount of lumber cut per year — feet 173,000,000 lath " " " 48,000,000 staves " " " 3,000,000 shingles " '' " 200,000,000 Number of hands constantly employed in mills ... 1,150 Number of hands employed in pineries in winter . . . 3,400 Number of hands employed in rafting and loading vessels 660 Average load of vessels, feet 80,000 Annual number of arrivals of vessels carrying lum- ber from Grand and Muskegon rivers 1,920 12 DETEOIT, cHE City of Detroit, a port of entry, and the great com- mercial mart of the State, is favorably situated in N. lat. 42"^ 20', W. long. 82° 58', on a river or strait of the same name, elevated some 30 or 40 feet above its surface, being seven miles below the outlet of Lake St. Clair and twenty above the mouth of the river, where it enters into Lake Erie. It extends for the distance of upward of a mile upon the southwest bank of the river, where the stream is three fourths of a mile in width. The principal public and private offices and wholesale stores are located on Jefferson and Woodward avenues, which cross each other at right angles, the latter running to the water's edge. There may usually be seen a great number of steamboats, propellers, and sail vessels of a large class, loading or unloading their rich cargoes, destined for Eastern mar- kets or for the Great West, giving an animated appearance to this place, which is aptly called the City of the Straits. It was incorporated in 1815, being now divided into nine wards, and governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Detroit contains the old State-house, from the dome of which a fine view is obtained of the city and vicinity ; the City Hall, Ma- sonic Hall, Firemen's Hall, Mechanics Hall, Odd Fellows Hall, the Young Men's Society Building, two Market Buildings, twenty churches, ten hotels, besides a number of taverns; a United States custom-house and post-office, a theater, a mu- seum, two orphan asylums, four banks, and a savings' fund institute, besides a great number of manufacturing estab- lishments. There are also several extensive ship-yards and machine shops, where are built and repaired vessels of almost every description. The population in 1850 was 21,891 ; in 1856, 48,000. DETROIT. 135 Detroit may be regarded as one of the most favored of all the Western cities of the Union. It was first settled by the French explorers as early as 1701, as a military and fur trad- ing port. It changed its garrison and military government in 1700 for a British military commander and troops, enduring under the latter regime a series of Indian sieges, assaults, and petty but vigilant and harassing warfare, conducted against the English garrison by the celebrated Indian warrior Pontiac. Detroit subsequently passed into the possession of the American revolutionists ; but on the 16th August, 1812, it was surren- dered by Gen. Hull, of the United States army, to Gen. Brock, commander of the British forces. In 1813 it was again sur- rendered to the Americans. The railroads finished and in progress of construction in Michigan afford facilities of an immense importance to Detroit, and the State at large. The following lines diverge from Detroit : 1. The Detroit, Monroe and Toledo Railroad, 62 miles in length, connecting with the Michigan Southern Railroad at Monroe, and with other roads at Toledo. 2. The Michigan Central Railroad, 282 miles in length, extends to Chicago, 111. This important road, running across the State from east to west, connects at Michigan City, Ind., with the New Albany and Salem Railroad — thus forming a di- rect line of travel to Louisville, St. Louis, etc., as well as Chi- cago and the Far West, 3. The Detroit and Milwaukee Railroad runs through a rich section of country to Grand Haven, on Lake Michigan, opposite Milwaukee, Wis., and will soon be completed. 4. The Detroit aiid Port Huron Railroad is also under con- struction, which, when completed, will connect Lake Huron by rail with the valley of the Ohio River. 5. The Great Western Railway of Canada has its terminus at Windsor, opposite Detroit, the two places being connected by three steam ferries — thus affording a speedy line of travel '^ rough Canada, and thence to Eastern cities of the United States. 136 DETROIT RIVER. The Detroit Kiver, or Strait, is a noble stream, through which flow the surplus waters of the Upper Lakes into Lake Erie. It is 27 miles in length, and from half a mile to two miles in width, forming the boundary between the United States and Canada. It has a perceptible current, and is naviga- ble for vessels of the largest class. Large quantities of fish are annually taken in the river, and the sportsman usually finds an abundance of wild ducks, which breed in great numbers in the marshes bordering some of the islands and harbors of the coast. There are altogether seventeen islands in the river. The names of these are, Clay, Celeron, Hickory, Sttgar, Bois Blanc, Ella, Fox, Rock, Grosse Isle, Stoney, lighting, Tur- key, Mammy Judy, Grassy, Mud, Belle or Hog, and lie la Peche. The two latter are situated a few miles above Detroit, near the entrance to Lake St. Clair, where large quantities of white-fish are annually taken. Ile la Peche, attached to Canada, was the home of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac. Parkman, in his " History of the Conspiracy of Pontiac," says : " Pontiac, the Satan of this forest-paradise, was accustomed to spend the early part of the summer upon a small island at the opening of Lake St. Clair." Another author says : " The king and lord of all this country lived in no royal state. His cabin was a small, oven-shaped structure of bark and rushes. Here he dwelt with his squaws and children ; and here, doubtless, he might often have been seen carelessly reclining his naked form on a rush-mat or a bear-skin, like an ordinary Indian warrior." The other fifteen islands, most of them small, are situated below Detroit, within the first twelve miles of the river after entering it from Lake Erie, the largest of which is Grosse, Isle, attached to Michigan, on which are a number of exten- feive and well -cultivated farms. This island has become a very popular retreat for citizens of Detroit during the heat of sum- mer, there being here located good public houses for the ac- commodation of visitors. DETROIT RIVER. 137 Father Hennepin, who was passenger on the " Griffin," the first vessel that crossed Lake Erie, in 1679, in his description of the scenery along the route, says : " The islands are the finest in the world ; the strait is finer than Niagara ; the banks are vast meadows, and the prospect is terminated with some hills covered with vineyards, trees hearing good fruit, groves and forests so well disposed that one would think that Nature alone could not have made, without the help of art, so charming a prospect." COMPAEATIVE PURITY OF DETROIT RIVER WATER. The following Table shows the solid matter in a gallon of water, taken from Lakes and Rivers in different cities : Grs. solid matter. Grs. solid matter. Albany," Hudson River 6.320 C Hemlock L. 1.330 Troy, Mohawk River T.880 Rochester, N. Y. } Lake Ont . . 4.160 Boston, Cochituate Lake 1.850 ( Genesee R.11.210 New York, Oroton River 6.998 Detroit, Detroit River 5.T22 Brooklyn, L. I. Ponds 2.36T Cleveland, Lake Erie 5.000 Philadelphia, Schuylkill R. . . 4.260 Montreal, St. Lawrence R. . . . 5.000 Cincinnati, Ohio River 6.736 Of the Detroit River water. Prof. Douglass, in his report of the analysis, says : " In estimating the value of your city water, as compared with other cities, due allowance must be made for the fact, that the total solid matter is materially increased by the presence of silica, alumina, and iron, elements that can produce little- or no injury ; while the chlorides, much the most injurious compounds, are entirely absent. The presence of s\ich large quantities of sihca and iron is accounted for by the fact, that Lakes Superior and Huron are formed, for the most part, in a basin of ferruginous sandstone and igneous rock." 12* 138 T5-ISHERIES. LAKE AifD EIYER FISHEKIES. " The early French explorers of the Upper Lakes, in 1615, make mention of the white fish and trout as being lu>:nrioiis, and much used for the sustenance of life by the sons of the forest. From the time civilization dawned upon the shores of the lakes, the French settlers supplied themselves with them; and during the war of 1812, they were found of substantial benefit to the soldiers in appeasing their hunger, for the want of other supplies. "Previous to the completion of the Erie Canal, salt was mostly transported by the St. Lawrence, and thence up the lakes, and obtained only at enormous prices. After the canal was completed, in 1827, it became comparatively cheap, and the fisheries were made profitable. In 1830, emigration to Michigan rapidly commenced, and incrensed to such a degree in 183-1, that the new-comers found it difficult to purchase pro- duce, on account of the scarcity, as nearly every thing con- sumed was imported from sister States. This caused a great consumption of fish, and gave birth to the extension of river and lake fisheries. " From this time the business increased, and several grounds were cleared on the St. Clair River, and as the market increased they were extended to the shores of Lake Huron. Several houses in Detroit became extensively engaged in the business, employing vessels exclusively in the trade. The American Fur Company also engaged in it ; and, in 1811, two schooners Avere taken over the falls at the Saut Ste Marie into Lake Superior, for the purpose of fishing on that lake. " There are a great variety of fish in the lakes besides white fish and trout. Lake Superior abounds with the siskowit, a delicious fish, weighing from three to ten pounds. They /.le exceedingly fat, and when tryed will yield 25 per cent, of oil Stui'geon weighing upward of 100 pounds have been taken; trout, 60 pounds ; maskalonge, 40 pounds ; pickerel, 15 pounds ; mullet, 10 pounds; bill-fish, six pounds; also cat-fish, her- rings, eels, etc. In the vicinity of the Saut Ste Jlarid, and al^ the streams emptying into Lake Superior, large quantities oi small speckled, or brook-trout, are taken. '* In 1840 there were 35.000 barrels of fish of various kinds packed, and it is estimated that the quantity now annually taken in American waters can not be less than 100,000 bar- rels, besides what find their way to the Canadian markets Detroit is the most extensive mart, where large quantities are sold for home consumption ; and market is found for them in New York, Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, and other Western States."— See " Sketches of the City of Detroit" pub. in 1855. STEAMBOAT ROUTE. 13f The "Wliite Fish is regarded as the prince of fresh-water fish Henry R. Schoolcraft, in his poem, " The White Fish," says: " All friends to good living by tureen and dish, Concur in exalting this prince of a fish ; So fine in a platter, so tempting a fry, 3o rich on a gridiron, so sweet in a pie ; That even before it the salmon must fail, And that mighty honne-bouche, of the land-beaver's tail. ***** 'Tis a morsel alike for the gourmand or fiister, While, white as a tablet of pure alabaster ! Its beauty or flavor no person can doubt, "When seen in the water or tasted without; And all the dispute that opinion ere makes Of this king of lake fishes, this ' deer of the lakes,''* Regard not its choiceness to ponder or sup. But the best mode of dressing and serving it up. * * * * * Here too, might a fancy to descant inclined, Contemplate the love that pertains to the kind. And bring up the red man, in fanciful strains,' To prove its creation from feminine brains."t STEAMBOAT EOUTE FROM CLEVELAND TO DETROIT. Ports, etc. Miles. Ports, etc. Miles. Cleveland, Ohio Detroit, Mich Point Pelee Is., and Light 60 Windsor, C. W 1 Bar Point, C. W 97 Fighting Island 8 Bois Blanc Is. Light, } Fish Island 9 Detroit River, 5 ' ' Wyandotte, Mich 11 Maiden, C. W 101 Mama Juba Is. and Light 12 Gibraltar, Mich Grosse Isle 13 Grosse Isle, " 102 Gibraltar, Mich Mama Juba Is. and Light 108 Maiden, C. W 19 Wyandotte, Mich 109 Bois Blanc Is. Light, ") Fish Island Light Ill Lake Erie, 5 ' * " Fighting Island 112 Bar Point, C. W 23 Windsor, C. W 119 Point Pelee Island 60 Detroit 120 Cleveland 120 Fare, $3 00. Usual Time, 7 hours. » * A translation of Ad-dik-kee7n-mm(j, the Indian name for this fish. t Vide " Indian Tales and Legends." 140 STEAMBOAT ROUTES. CLEVELAND AND DETROIT STEAMERS DaCLY. May Qu-een, 688 tons Capt. E. Vesie Ocean, 900 '^ " C. C. Blodgett. STEAMERS EUNNING FROM CLEVELAND AND DETROIT TO DIFFERENT PORTS ON THE UPPER LAKES. LAKE SUPERIOR LINE, STOPPING AT MACKINAC AND 5AUT STE MARIE. Steamer Illinois, 926 tons Capt. "Wilson. North Star, 1,106 tons '^ B. G. Sweet. " Planet, 1,154 tons " Nicholson. Propeller Manhattan, 320 tons " John Spalding. ■' Mineral Pvock, 560 '= " John Frascr. * Gen. Taylor, 462 « " 11. Pvider. GREEN BAY LINE, STOPPING AT MACKINAC, RUNS BETWEEN BUFFALO, CLEVELAND, DETROIT, AND GREEN BAY. Steamer Michigan, 642 tons Capt. A. Stewart. Sultana, 650 " " Mead DETROIT TO SAGINAW CITY. Steamer Sam Ward, 433 tons Capt. II. Fish RUNNING FROM DETROIT. Steamer Ploughboy, 300 tons, Capt. D. Rowan, runs to Port Sarnia and Goderich, C W. Steamer Mazeppa, 250 tons, runs to Goderich and Saugeen DETROIT TO PORT HURON AND FORRESTVILLE. Steamer Forrester Capt. J. Robertson. " Forest Queen " S. D. AVoodworth. Steamer Ariel, 165 tons, runs to New Baltimore, Mich. " Albion, 132 tons, runs to Mt. Clemens. STEAMBOAT ROUTES FROM DETROIT TO TOLEDO, SAXDUSKY, ETC. DETROIT AND TOLEDO STEAMBOAT LINE. Arrow, 373 tons Capt. J. W. Keith. Dart, 297 " " S. Dustin. One of the above steamers runs daily to and from Toledo, stopping at Wyandotte, Trenton, Monroe, and other ports on the Michigan shore. Distance from Detroit to Toledo, by steam- boat route, 70 miles. DETROIT TO SANDUSKY. The steamer Bay City, 479 tons, Capt. J. jNI. Lundy, runs from Detroit to Sandusky, Ohio, connecting with raili'oad lines running to Newarkj Columbus, Cincinnati, etc. "Wyandotte, ten miles below Detroit, is a new and flourish- ing manufacturing village, where are located the most extensive iron works in IVIichigan. Trenton, six miles farther, is the next steamboat landing. The City of Monroe, capital of Monroe Co., Mich., is situated on both sides of the river Raisin, three miles above its entrance into Lake Erie, and about 40 miles from Detroit. It is con- nected with the lake by a ship canal, and is the terminus of the Mi.chi^ofi Southei'Ti Railroad, which extends west, in connec- tion with the Northern Indiana Railroad, to Chicago, 111. The town contains about 5,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, a United States land-oflBce, eight churohes, several public- houses, and a number of large stores of different kinds. Here are two extensive piers, forming an outport at the mouth of the river, where the steamers land and receive passengers ; the railroad track running to the landing. A plank-road also runs from the outport to the city, which is an old and interesting locality, being formerly called Frenchtoivn, where a sanguin- ary battle was fought during the war of 1812. The Detroit, Monroe and Toledo Railroad, just completed, passes through 142 TOLL DO. tliis city; it being about 40 miles to Detroit and 22 miles to Toledo by railroad route. This line of travel will be extended south to Cincinnati. Steamers run from Detroit to Toledo, stopping at Monroe daily during the season of navigation. The City of Sandusky, capital of Erie Co., Ohio, is a port of entry and flourishing place of trade. It is advantageously situated on Sandusky Bay, three miles from Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41° 27', W. long. 82° 45'. The bay is about 20 miles long, and five or six miles in vridth, forming a capacious and excel- lent harbor, into which steamers and vessels of all sizes can enter with safety. The average depth of water is from ten to twelve feet. The city is built on a bed of limestone, producing a good building material. It contains about 10,000 inhabitants, a court-house and jail, eight churches, two banks, several well- kept hotels, and a number of large stores and manufacturing establishments of different kinds. This is the terminus of the Mad River and Lake Erie Railroad, running to Dayton, 153 miles, and the Sandusky, Mansfield and Newark Railroad, 116 miles in length. The Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, northern division, also runs through Sandusky, affording altogether great facilities to travelers, in connection with a line of steamers running to Detroit, Cleveland, and Btrffalo The City of Toledo is situated on the Maumee River, four miles from its mouth, and ten miles from the Turtle Island Light, at the outlet of the Maumee Bay into Lake Erie. The harbor is good, and the navigable channel from Toledo to the lake is of sufficient depth for all steamers or sail vessels navi- gating the lakes, with the exception of a short distance through the bay, which requires deepening from one to two feet. Toledo is the eastern terminus of the Wabash and Erie Canal, run- ning through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, and communi- cating with the Ohio River at Evansville, a distance of 471 miles; also of the Miami and Erie Canal, which branches from the above canal 08 miles west of Toledo, and runs southwardly through the Miami Valley in Western Ohio, and communicates with the Ohio River at Cincinnati. TOLEDO. 143 " The railroads diverging from Toledo are the Michigan Sou- thern and JVorthern Indiana Railroad, running through the southern counties of Michigan and the northern counties of Indiana, and making its western terminus at Chicago, Illinois, at a distance of 243 miles ; also, the Air Line Railroad, run- ning due west from Toledo, through J^orthwestern Ohio and the northern counties of Indiana to Goshen, a distance of 110 miles, where it connects with the Northern Indiana Railroad, running to Chicago; also the terminus of the Jackson Branch of the Michigan Southern Road, and the Detroit, Monroe and Toledo Railroad. "It is also the eastern terminus of the Toledo, Wabash ajid Western Railroad, running in a southwesterly direction through the Maumee and Wabash valleys, crossing the eastern line of the State of Illinois, about 125 miles south of Chicago, and continuing in a southwesterly course through Danville, Springfield, Jacksonville, Naples, etc., in Central Illinois, to the Mississippi River, and connecting with the Hannibal and St. Joseph Road, which stretches nearly due west through the State of j\Iissouri to St. Joseph, on the Missouri River. It also, in connection "v^th other roads, affords a through line of travel to St. Louis. The Dayton and Michigan Railroad (to be com- pleted the present year), which connects Toledo with Cincin- nati, is much the shortest railroad line connecting Lake Erie with the Ohio River. Besides the above important roads, the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad terminates here. " Toledo is the nearest point for the immense country trav- ersed by these canals and railroads, where a transfer can be made of freight to the more cheap transportation by the lakes, and thence through the Erie Canal, Welland Canal, or Oswego Canal, to the sea-board. It is not merely the country traversed by these canals and railroads that send their products, and re- ceive their merchandise, through Toledo, but many portions of the States of Kentucky, Tennessee, Missouri, and Iowa find Toledo the cheapest and most expeditious lake-port for the in- terchange and transfer of their products and merchandise." This city is the capital of Lucas County, Ohio, where is situ- . ated a court-house and jail, several fine churches and school edifices, six hotels, and a great number of stores and store- houses, also several extensive manufacturing establishments. The population of Toledo in 1850 was about 4,000, and now it is supposed to contain 12,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly in- creasing in wealth and numbers. The shipping interest is in- creasing, here being transhipped annually an enormous amount 144 MAUMEE RIVER. of grain, and other kinds of agricultural product of the great West ; it being, no doubt, destined, like Chicago, to export direct to European ports, lying as it does on the direct railroad and steamboat route from St. Louis to Montreal. At this time there are in process of erection in Toledo many handsome dwellings, numerous handsome blocks of stores, a post-office and custom-house by the general government, and a first-class hotel ; these two latter buildings, from the plans we have seen, would do credit to any city, and when completed can be classed among the most elegant structures. No city in the State can boast of finer private residences than Toledo ; and the general character of the buildings erected in the past three years is substantial and elegant. Perrysburg, capital of Wood Co., Ohio, is situated on the right bank of the Maumee River, 18 miles above its entrance into Maumee Bay, the southern termination of Lake Erie. It contains a court-house and jail, four churches, 20 stores of dif- ferent kinds, three steam saw-mills, a tannery, and several other manufacturing establishments. Population about 1,500. Here is the head of steamboat navigation on the jMaumee River, affording thus far a sufficient depth of water for steamers of a large class. Maumee City, capital of Lucas Co., Ohio, and a port of entry, is situated on the Maumee River, opposite Perrysburg, at the foot of the rapids and at the head of navigation, nine miles above Toledo. A side cut here connects the Wabash and Erie Canal with the river The Toledo and Illinois Railroad also passes through this place. It contains a court-house, five churches, 30 stores, four flouring-mills, three saw-mills, one oil-mill, and other manufacturing establishments propelled by water-power, the supply being here almost inexhaustible. Maumee River rises in the northeast part of Indiana, and flowing northeast enters Lake Erie, through Maumee Bay. It is about 100 miles long, navigable 18 miles, and furnishing an extensive water-power throughout its course. TRIP FROM BUFFALO TO DETROIT-DIRECT. CoM.MCDious steamers of about two thousand tons turden leave Buffalo direct for Detroit, daily, Sundays excepted, at ten o'clock P.M., or on the arrival of the Eastern express train of cars, leaving Albany the same morning ; also, connects "with cars from Niagara Falls, etc. On leaving the wharf at Buffalo, the steamers usually run direct for Long Point on the Canada, or north shore of Lake Erie, proceeding for most of the distance in British waters, to the mouth of Detroit River. Long Point, 65 miles from Buffalo, is a long strip of land, nearly 20 miles long and from one to three miles in width, covered for the most part with a stunted growth of forest trees. It was formerly a peninsula, running out from the land in an easterly direction, nearly half way across the lake; but the waters having made a wide breach across its western extremity, has converted it into an island. There is an important light- house on the east end to guide the mariner on his passage through Lake Erie, here about 40 miles wide, and where is found the greatest depth of water. To this Point both shores of the lake can be seen in a clear morning from the deck of the steamer, affording a most grand sight when the sun rises on a cloudless day. Then may usually been seen a fleet of vessels wending their way toward Buffalo or the mouth of the Welland Canal, through which channel annually passes a great number of steam propellers and sail vessels on their way to Lake Onta- rio and the St. Lawrence River. Port Colbqrne, C. W., situated about 20 miles west of Buffalo, lies at the mouth of the Welland Canal, while Port Maitland, some 20 miles farther, is situated at the mouth of Grand River, where is a navigable feeder communicating with the canal, thus affording two entrances to the above canal. 13 146 BUFFALO TO DETKOl T. Port Dover, about 70 miles west of Buffalo and 40 miles distant from Hamilton by proposed railroad route, is situated on the north shore of Lake Erie, at the mouth of the river Lynn. Here is a good harbor, and the village is a place of growing importance, containing about 1,000 inhabitants. Port Ryerse and Port Rowax are small villages on the Canada shore, situated on the bay formed by Long Point. Inland there is to be found a rich and fine farming district, consisting of some of the best lands in Canada West. The Sand Hills, immediately west of Long Point, are seen for some distance as the steamer pursues her onward course toward Point aux Pi7is, passing through the widest part of the lake, where both shores are lost sight of for a number of miles. The water usually presents a clear green color in the middle, but near the shore is more or less tinged with muddy water, proceeding from the streams emptying into the lake. Port Burwell, C. W., about 35 miles west of Long Point, is handsomely situated at the mouth of Otter Creek. Here is a light- house and good harbor. A large amount of lumber and other products are annually exported from this place to Eastern markets. Port Stanley, about 25 miles farther west, is handsomely situated at the mouth of Kettle Creek, being in part surrounded by high and picturesque hills in the immediate vicinity. The harbor is well protected, and much frequented by British and American vessels running on Lake Erie. It is nine miles south of St. Thomas and twenty-four from London, the chief town of the county of Middlesex, for which place it may be consid- ered the out-port. A plank-road runs between the two places ; also, the Londoji and Fort Stanley Railroad, connecting with the Great Western Railway of Canada. Steamers run from Port Stanley to Buffalo, Cleveland, and other ports on Lake Erie. Point atjx Pins, or Rond' Eau (usually called by the American navigators Round O), about 100 miles west of Long Point, is a cape which projects from the Canada shore, inclosing BUFFALO TO DRTROIT. 147 a natural basin of about 6,000 acres in extent, -with a depth of from ten to twelve feet, thus forming an excellent and secure harbor, the entrance to which has been improved by the Cana- dian government by running out piers, etc. It is proposed to construct a ship canal from this port to the St. Clair Kiver, a distance of about 35 miles, thus avoiding the St. Clair F/ats. Another Canadian project is to construct a canal from (loderich to Hamilton, C. W., about 120 miles in length. PonvT Pelee, lying about 40 miles east of the mouth of De- troit River, projects a number of miles into Lake Erie, and forms, in connection with the island of Point Pelee and other islands in the vicinity, the most picturesque portion of lake scenery to be met with on this inland sea. PorvT Pelee Island, belonging to Canada, is about seven miles long and two or three miles in width. It is inhabited by a few settlers. The island is said to abound with red cedar, and possesses a fine limestone quarry. A light-house is situ- ated on the east side. The steamers bound for Detroit River usually pass to the north side of Point Pelee Island, and run across Pigeon Bay toward Bar Point, situated at the mouth of Detroit River. Several small islands are passed on the south, called East Sis- ter, Middle Sister, and West Sister; also, in the distance, may be seen the Bass Islands, known as the "North Bass," " Middle Bass/' and " South Bass." On the west side of the latter lies the secure harbor of Put-in-Bay, celebrated as the rendezvous of Com. Perry's fleet, before and after the glorious naval victory which he achieved over the British fleet, Septem- ber 10th, 1813. Detroit River, forming one of the links between the Upper and Lower Lakes, is next approached, near the mouth of which may be seen a light on the Michigan shore called Gibraltar Light, and another light on an island attached to Canada, the steamers usually entering the river through the east or Brit- ish Channel of the river, although vessels often pass through the west or American Channel 148 BUFFALO TO DEIROIT. Amherstburg, C. W., 18 miles below Detroit, is an old and important town. The situation is good ; the banks of the river, both above and below the village, but particularly the latter, where the river emerges into Lake Erie, are very beautiful ; several handsome residences may here be seen, surrounded by highly cultivated grounds. About a mile below the town is a chalybeate spring, which is said to resemble the waters of Cheltenham, in England. British and American vessels fre- quently land at Amherstburg, on their trips to and from the Upper Lakes. Fort Malden, capable of accommodating a regiment of troops, is situated about half a mile above Amherstburg, on the east bank of the river, the channel of which it here com- mands. At Brovtnstown, situated on the opposite side of the river, in Michigan, is the battle-ground where the Americans, under disadvantageous circumstances, and with a slight loss, routed the British forces, which lay in ambush, as the former were on their way to relieve the fort at Frenchtown, which event occur- red August 5, 1812. Sandwich, C. W., is beautifully situated on the river, two miles below Detroit, and nine miles below Lake St. Clair. It stands on a gently sloping bank a short distance from the river, which is here about a mile wide. This is one of the oldest settlements in Canada West. Windsor, C. W., situated in the township of Sandwich, is a village directly opposite Detroit, with which it is connected by three steam ferries. It was laid out in 1834, and is now a place of considerable business, having a population of about 2,000 inhabitants. Here terminates the Great Western Railway of Canada, which extends from Niagara Falls or Suspension Bridge, via Hamilton and London, to opposite Detroit — thus forming an important link in the great line of railroads, now finished, running from the sea-board at different points to the Mississippi River BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, DETROIT, ETC. 149 STEAMERS RUNNING FROM BUFFALO TO DIFFERENT PORTS ON LAKE ERIE, ETC.— 1S57. MICHIGArO" CENTRAL RAILROAD LINE Steamer Plymouth Rock, 2,000 tons Capt. P. J. Ralph. " Mississippi, 1,830 " " S. G. Langley. " Western World, 2,000 " " J. S. Richards. One of the above splendid steamers leaves the foot of Erie Street, Buffalo, every evening (Sundays excepted) at 9 p.m., direct for Detroit, connecting with trains on the Michigan Cen- tral Railroad, running to Chicago, etc. C. E. Noble, Gen. Agent, Buffalo MICHIGAN" SOUTHERN RAILROAD LINE Southern Michigan, 1,470 tons .... Capt. L. B. Goldsmith. Western Metropolis, 1,830 " .... " I. T. Plieatt. City of Buffalo, 2,200 " " AD. Perkins. One of the above new and popular steamers usually le.iv^s t^ie foot of Main Street, Buffalo, daily (Sundays excepted), dii-ect for Toledo, connecting with trains on the Michigan Southern and Northern Indiana railroads, running to Chicago, etc This line also connects with trains of cars running from TuloJo tc Lafayette, Ind., St. Louis, etc. C. Forbes, Gen. Agent, Buffalo. CLEVELAND, COLUMBUS AND CINCINNATI RAILROAD LIXK. Steamer Cre>-'cent City 1,740 tons, Capt. Wm T Pease. QuEENOFTHE West, 1,850 " " D. H. McBride. One of the above steamers usually leaves Buffalo at 8 o clock P.M., direct for Cleveland, 0., connecting with trains on the Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati Railroad. J. C. Harrison, GeJi. Agent, Buffalo. Steamer Clifton, Capt. H. Van Allen, runs from Buffalo to Chippewa, C. W., daily, connecting with the Erie and Ontario Railroad, forming a through line of travel to Niagara Falls, Toronto, etc. Steamer Mohawk runs from Buffalo to Port Stanley, etc., connecting with the London ana Port Stanley Railroad. 13* 150 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. EAILEOAD EOUTE FEOM NIAGAEA FALLS TO HAMILTON AND DETEOIT, via GEEAT WESTEEN EAILWAY OF CANADA. This great International Line, extending from Niagara Eiver to Detroit River, opposite the city of Detroit, a distance of 229 miles, passes through a fine and interesting section of country, equal in many respects to Western New York. It connects with the New York Central and Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad, forming a great through route of travel. Starting from the Suspetision Bridge at Clifton, two miles below the Falls of Niagara, the passenger train soon reaches the verge of the mountain ridge overlooking the plain below, while in the distance may be seen the broad waters of Lake Ontario, usually studded with sail vessels and propellers on their way to or from the mouth of the Welland Canal. " Traced like a map, the landscape lies In cultured beauty stretching wide." Thorold, nine miles, is situated on the line of the Welland Canal, where is abundant water-power propelling five or six flour- ing-mills. A railroad extends to Port Dalhousie, some five or six miles distant, connecting with a steamer running to Toronto. This road will be extended to Port Colbourne, on Lake Erie, about twenty miles distant. St. Catherines, 12 miles from the Suspension Bridge, is a flourishing town, also situated on the line of the Welland Canal, which connects Erie and Ontario. This has become of late a fashionable place of resort during the summer months, caused by the mineral waters of the " Artesian Wells" obtaining great celebrity, owing to their curative properties. Here are two or three well-kept hotels for the accommodation of visitors. For further description of this place, see page 238. Beamsville, twenty-two miles from the Suspension Bridge, is a thriving village, about one mile from the station. Grimsby, five miles farther, is situated on Forty-mile Creek, the scene of some hard fighting during the war of 1812. It is a BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. 151 small Tillage of 350 inhabitants ; there are two churches, a hotel, and several stores ; also, a grist and saw-mills propelled by water-power. Hamtlton, 43 miles from Suspension Bridge, is the principal station on the line of the Great Western Railway, where are located the principal offices and workshops connected with the company. Here is a commodious depot and steamboat landing. Carriages and omnibuses are always in readiness to convey passengers to the hotels in the city, which is more fully de- scribed on page — The Toronto Branch of the Great Western Railway com- mences at Hamilton, and extends a distance of thirty-eight miles to the city of Toronto, running near the shore of Lake Ontario. On leaving Hamilton for Windsor or Detroit, the road passes near the mansion of Sir Allan M'Nab, and over the Des Jardines Canal, entering the head of Burlington Bay.* Here is also a Suspension Bridge in sight, thrown over the stream as it cuts its way through the high bank which encircles the bay or lake. This point presents a beautiful view, both on leaving or arriving at the head-waters of Lake Ontario. DuNDAs, five miles from Hamilton, is situated on rising ground on the side of the mountaia, and is a thriving manu- facturing place, having the advantage of a stream which flows, or rather rushes, with great impetuosity through its center, working on its way numerous mills. The Des Jardines Canal runs from hence to Burlington Bay, enabling the manufacturers to ship their goods at their own doors. Among the manufac- tories are flouring-mills, a paper-mill, a foundry, which is an extensive establishment, where machinery of every kind and steam-engines are made to a large extent ; an axe factory, a woolen factoiy ; two newspapers, and several places of wor- ship. Population 3,500. * On Tliursday, March 12th, 1857, the most fearful accident on record occurred at this bridge, killing about seventy passengers, men, women, and children, being on their way from Toronto to Hamilton. 152 BUFFALO AND NIAGARA FALLS TO DETROIT. Harrisburg, nineteen miles from Hamilton, is the station of the Gait Branch of the Great Western Railway. Paris, with the Upper and Lower Town, contains about 3,500 inhabitants ; so called from its contiguity to beds of gypsum or plaster of Paris. It possesses a considerable amount of water- power, which works numerous mills. There are two foundries, a tannery, machine-shop, distillery, saw-mill, etc. The Buf- falo and Lake Huron Railway intersects the Great Western at this point, running to Goderich, on Lake Huron. Woodstock, 48 miles from Hamilton and 138 from Wind- sor, is a county town, well situated on rolling ground, and contains about 4,500 inhabitants. It may be called a town of magnificent distances ; East and West Woodstock forming a street upward of a mile in length. The vacant spaces, however, are fast being filled up with stately edifices, and it will thus in a short time become one of the handsomest thoroughfares in Canada. In this locality, noted for its handsome country seats — and indeed all the way from Hamilton — the land as seen from the road (the railroad for the most part passes through a new country) is rolling and well cleared of trees and stumps, pre- senting more the appearance of " merrie England" than any other section of the Province. Ingersoll, nine miles farther, formerly an Indian village, now contains about 2,000 inhabitants. A small arm of the Thames runs through it, and furnishes some water-power, by which several mills are worked. Since the opening of the rail- way it has risen in a surprising manner ; and the town, which before then had a very dingy appearance, the houses being of wood and wanting paint, is now gay with white brick, and the streets resound with the hum of an enterprising population. London, 119 miles from Suspension Bridge and 110 from Windsor, if not, like her English namesake, The great resort Of all the earth— checkered with all Complexions of mankind- is nevertheless a very stirring business place, and presents an- other instance of the energy and enterprise of the Canadian. Ten years ago, this then very small village of wooden houses was entirely burned down, and now on its ashes is raised a most flourishing city, containing four banks, several wholesale houses, fifteen churches, many of them handsome structures, and the English Church having a fine peal of bells ; life and fire in- surance offices, breweries and distilleries. It has three new.s- papers and several good hotels. Population nearly 18,000. It is well watered by the river Thames, which, however, is only navigable up to Chatham, sixty miles distant. BUFFALO rO U0DI.RICH. 153 The London and Port Stanley Railroadhere joins the Great Western Railway ; length twenty-four miles, running south to Lake Erie. Chatham, forty-six miles from "Windsor, situated on the river Thames, possesses the great advantage of a navigation, and is therefore a place of considerable business. It contains eight churches ; and being the county town of Kent, it has a court-house, a very handsome building, several grist and saw- mills, woolen factory, two foundries, machine shop, etc. Nu- merous steamers and sail vessels have been built at this place. Steamers ply between Chatham, Detroit, and Amherstburg. Population about 5,000. WiJj-DsoR, 229 miles from Suspension Bridge, opposite Detroit, prettily situated on the banks of the river, is a place of con- siderable business, and is rapidly increasing in wealth and population, owing to the advantage it has of being the western terminus of the Great Western liailway. Of course Windsor must have a " Castle," and the hotel of that name will be found excellent. Population, 2,000. Three steam-ferries ply between Windsor and Detroit, making close connections for the benefit of railroad passengers. For further information in regard to this route — See Canada Raihvai/ and Steam Navigation Guide. BUFFALO TO GODEEICH, C. W., via BUFFALO AND LAKE HUEON EAILWAT. Office, 37 Exchanr/e Street, Buffalo, X. Y. This important line of travel extends from Buffalo, N. Y., crossing Niagara Ptiver by means of a steam ferry at Black Rock to Fort Erie, on the Canada side. It is proposed to con- struct a permanent railroad bridge of about one mile in length, a short distance above the present ferry. From Fort Erie the line of the railway extends westward within a short distance of Lake Erie for forty miles, to Dunnville, situated at the mouth of Grand River, crossing the Welland Canal. From Dunnville the road runs along the valley of the river on the north side to Brantford, thirty-eight miles farther, and from thence extends westward to Paris, where it connects with the Great Western Railway of Canada. The line thence runs to Stratford, C. W., where it connects with the Grand Trunk 154 BUFFALO TO GODERICH. Railway, a total distance from Buffalo of 116 imles. To this point the road is now completed and in running order, and will be finished through to Goderich, situated on Lake Huron, during the year 1857. DuNviLLE is advantageously situated on the Grand Pdver, at a point where it is intersected by the feeder of the AVelland Canal. It is a place of considerable business, and contains several grist, saw, and plaster mills, and a tannery. Popula- tion, about 1,500. The Wetland Canal is one of the many works of the same kind of which Canadians may be proud. This Canal affords a passage for propellers, sloops and schooners of 125 tons burden, around the Falls of Niagara, and connects Lake Erie with Lake Ontario. It is 42 miles long, including feeder, 56 feet wide, and from 8} to 16 feet deep. The whole descent from one lake to the other is 334 feet, which is accomplished by 37 locks. Brantford, 78 miles from Buffalo and 82 miles from God- erich, is beautifully situated on Grand River, and named after Brant, the renowned chief of the Six Nations Indians, who, with his tribe, steadily supported the British Crown during the American War. " In ' Gertrude of Wyoming' he is alluded to in disparaging terms : ' The mammoth comes— the fleud, the monster Brant.' But some years afterward Campbell was obliged to apologize to Brant's son, who happened to visit London ; as it appeared, on satisfactory evidence, his father was not even present at the horrible desolation of Wyoming. This much is due to the mem- ory of Brant, who was a brave warrior and a steadfast ally of the British, and always exerted himself to mitigate the horrors of war." Brantford, until the opening of the Great Western Railway, was a great wheat market, the streets being crowded with hun- dreds of wagons daily; but that road created other markets, and to this extent the town has suffered. It has, however, other sources of prosperity. There is no place in the Province which commands such extensive water-power, and which is made BUFFALO Tu GODERICH. 155 available for the working of numerous mills. The iron foun- dries, machine shops, and potteries are on a large scale, and have caused the place to be regarded as the Birmingham of Canada. It has a goodly number of churches of various denomi- nations, and one of the largest and handsomest hotels in the Province — " The Kirby House." Population about 6,000. Stratford, is a new and thriving town, favorably situated on the line of the Grand Trunk Raihvay of Canada. This section of Canada enjoys a good climate and fertile soil, produc- ing cereal grains in great abundance. The distance from Stratford to Goderich, by railroad route, is 44 miles, which, when completed, will afford a direct and ^eedy route from Buffalo to Lake Huron, a total distance of 160 miles. God K RICH, C. W., is advantageously situated at the mouth of Maitland River, here affording a safe and good harbor for ves- sels of a large size. The village is beautifully situated on ele- vated ground, rising about 1 50 feet above the waters of Lake Huron. The population now amounts to about 4,000, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. Steamers run from this port to Port Sarnia, Detroit, and Saginaw, and other har- bors on the Upper Lakes. The Buffalo and Lake Huron Raihvay Company is pushing with energy the completion of this road, and the improvement of its passenger and freight capacity. We learn that the board of directors, at a late meeting in London, England, appropriated $1,300,000 for the construction of a steam ferry to run be- tween Fort Erie and Black Bock, which shall be able to trans- fer six cars at a time from one side of the river to the other ; for the construction of slips and docks on both sides to accomo- date the steamer ; for the construction of a track from Black Rock into the city of Buffalo, and to improve the harbor at Goderich, the terminus of the road on Lake Huron. TABLE OF DISTAXCRS FROM BUFFALO TO TOLEDO.-LAKE EKIE ROUTE. Ports, etc. Miles. Buffalo, N. Y Silver Creek, " 34 Dunkirk, " 42 Portland, " 52 Erie, Pa 90 Conneaut, Ohio 117 Ashtabula, " 131 Painesville, " 156 Clevela-nd, " 185 KeUey's Island 240 Sandusky " 245 South Bass Island 245 West Sister Island 263 Turtle Island 275 Maumee Bay 278 Toledo, Ohio 285 Porta, etc. Miles. Toledo, Ohio Maumee Bay 7 Turtle Island 10 West Sister Island 22 South Bass Island 40 KeUey's Island 45 Sandusky, Ohio. Cleveland, " Painesville, " Ashtabula, " . Conneaut, " Erie, Pa Portland, N. Y. . , Dunkirk, " . . Silver Creek, " . . Buffalo. " . . 50 100 129 154 168 195 233 243 251 285 Note.— The direct through route as run by the steamers from Buffalo to Toledo is about 250 miles ; the circuit of Lake Erie beinj; about 500 miles. COMPARATIVE INCREASE OF LAKE CITIES. 1840. 1850. 1853. 1856. Buffalo, N. Y 18,213 42,261 60,000* 85,000 Chicago, 111 4,470 28,269 60,000 100,000 Cleveland, 6,071 17,034 40,000t 50.000 Detroit, Mich 9,102 21,019 34,436 48,000 Milwaukee, Wis. .. . 1,700 20,061 25,000 42,000 OswKGo, N. Y 12,205 16,000 Sandusky, 1,434 6,008 8,000 10,000 Toledo, 1,222 3,829 6,412 12,000 * Mack Sock annexed. t Ohio City annexed. TRIP FROI BUFFALO TO CLEVELAXD SA^^DUSKY, TOLEDO, ETC. Steamers of a large class leave Buffalo, dai.y, Sundays ex- cepted, for the different ports on the American or south shore of Lake Erie, connecting with railroad cars at Cleveland, San- dusky, and Toledo. On lea\'ing Buffalo harbor, ■which is formed hy the mouth of Buffalo Creek, where is erected a breakwater by the United States government, a fine view is afforded of the city of Buffalo, the Canada shore, and Lake Erie stretching off in the distance, with here and there a steamer or sail vessel in sight. As the steamer proceeds westward through the middle of the lake, the landscape fades in the distance, until nothing is visible but a broad expanse of green waters. Sturgeon Point, 20 miles from Buffalo, is passed on the south shore, when the lake immediately widens by the land receding on both shores. During the prevalence of storms, when the full blast of the wind sweeps through this lake, its force is now felt in its full power, driving the angry Avaves for- ward with the v^ocity of the race-horse, often causing the waters to rise at the lower end of the lake to a great height so as to overflow its banks, and forcing its surplus waters into the Niagara River, which causes the only perceptible rise and increase of the rush of waters at the Falls. Dunkirk, N. Y., 42 miles from Buffalo, is advantageously situated on the shore of Lake Erie where terminates the JVew York and Erie Railroad, 460 miles in length. Here is a good and secure harbor, affording about twelve feet of water over the bar. A light-house, a beacon light and breakwater, the latter in a dilapidated state, have here been erected by the United States government. As an anchorage and port of refuge this harbor is extremely Valuable, and is much resorted 14 158 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. to for that purpose by steamers and sail vessels during tlie prevalence of storms ; there is twelve feet of water over the bar. The village was incorporated in 1837, and now contains about 4,000 inhabitants, 500 dwelling-houses, five churches, a bank, three hotels, and 20 stores of different kinds, besides several extensive storehouses and manufacturing establish- ments. The Buffalo and State Line Railroad, extending to Erie, Pa., runs through Dunkirk, forming in part the Lake Shore line of railroad, which in connection with the railroad leading direct to the city of New York, affords great advantages to this locality, which is no doubt destined to increase with the grow- ing trade of the lake country. Fredonia, three miles from Dunkirk, with which it is con- nected by a plank-road, is handsomely situated, being elevated about 100 feet above Lake Erie. It contains about 2,300 inhabitants, 300 dwelling-houses, five churches, one bank, an incorporated academy, four taverns, twenty stores, besides some mills and manufacturing establishments situated on Cana- doway Creek, which here affords good water-power. In the village, near the bed of the creek, is an inflammable spring, from which escapes a sufficient quantity of gas to light the village. A gasometer is constructed which forces the gas through tubes to different parts of the village, the consumer paying $4 per year for each burner used. It is also used for lighting the streets of the village. The flame is large, but not 80 strong or brilliant as that obtained from gas in our cities ; t is, however, in high favor with the inhabitants. Barcelona, N. Y., 58 miles from Buffalo, is the westernmost village in the State. It is a port of entry, and is much resorted to l)y steamers and large vessels navigating the lake, affording a tolerable good harbor, where is situated a light-house which is lighted by inflammable gas ; it escapes from the bed of a creek about half a mile distant, and is carried in pipes to the light-house. BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC 159 The City of Erie, Pa., 90 miles from Buffalo and 95 miles from Cleveland, is beautifully situated ou a bluff, affording a prospect of Presque Isle Bay and the lake beyond. Ijb has one of the largest and best harbors on Lake Erie, from •whence sailed Perry's fleet during the war of 1812. The most of the vessels were here built, being finished in seventy days from the time the trees were felled ; and here the gallant victor returned with his prizes after the battle of Lake Erie, which took place September 10th, 1813. The remains of his flag-ship, the Law- 7'tnce, lie in the harbor, from which visitors are allowed to cut pieces as relics. On the high bank, a little distance from the town, are the ruins of the old French fort, Presque Isle. The city contains a court-house, nine churches, a bank, three hotels, a ship-yard, several extensive manufacturing establishments, and about 7,000 inhabitants. In addition to the Lake Shore Railroad, the Sunbury and Erie Railroad will terminate at this place, affording a direct communication with New York and Philadelphia. Presque Isle Bay is a lovely sheet of water, protected by an island projecting into Lake Erie. There is a light-house on the west side of the entrance to the bay, in lat. 42° 8' N. ; it shows a fixed light, elevated 93 feet above the surface of the lake, and visible for a distance of 15 miles. The beacon shows a fixed light, elevated 28 feet, and is visible for nine miles. CoNNEAUT, Ohio, 117 miles from Buffalo and 68 from Cleve- land, situated in the northeast corner of the State, stands on a creek of the same name near its entrance into Lake Erie. It exports large quantities of lumber, grain, pork, beef, butter, cheese, etc., being surrounded by a rich agricultural section of country. The village contains about 3,000 inhabitants. The harbor of Conneaut lies two miles from the village, where is a light-house, a pier, and several warehouses. Ashtabula, Ohio, 14 miles farther west, stands on a stream of the same name, near its entrance into the lake. This is a thriving place, inhabited by an intelligent population estimated at 2,500. The harbor of Ashtabula is two and a half milo= 160 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. from the village, at tlie mouth of the river, where is a light- house. Fairpoht stands on the east side of Grand River, 155 miles from Buffalo. It has a good harbor for lake vessels, and is a port of considerable trade. This harbor is so well defended from winds and easy of access, that vessels run in when they can not easily make other ports. Here is a light-house and a beacon to guide the mariner. Painesville, 0., three miles from Fairport and 30 miles from Cleveland, is a beautiful and flourishing town, being sur- rounded by a fine section of country. It is the county seat for Lake County, and contains a court-house, five churches, a bank, 20 stores, a number of beautiful residences, and about 3,000 inhabitants. The City of Cleveland is situated on an elevated plain at the entrance of Cuyahoga River into Lake Erie, in N. lat. 41° 30', W. Ion. 81° 47'. It is distant 185 miles from Buffalo, and 107 miles from Toledo by railroad route ; 120 miles from Detroit by steamboat route. Its harbor is spacious and safe when once entered, being formed by the mouth of the river. The city is regularly and beautifully laid out, ornamented with numerous shade-trees, from which it takes the name of " Forest City ;" near its center is a large public square. It is the mart of one of the greatest grain-growing States in the Union, and has a ready communication by railroad with Albany, New York, and Philadelphia. The bluff on which it is built is 80 feet above the level of the lake, where stands a light-house, from which an extensive and magnificent view is obtained, overlooking the meandering of the Cuyahoga, the line of railroads, the shipping in the harbor, and the vessels passing on Lake Erie. The city contains a court-house, city hall, custom-house, college buildings, a lyceum, a public reading-room, a literary institution, which sustains a course of lectures during the winter season ; 25 churches of different denominations, six banks, an insurance company, and several large and well-kept hotels, among which may be named the Weddell House, the BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. 161 Angier House, the American Hotel, and the Johnson House. It now boasts of 50,000 inhabitants, and is rapidly increasing in numbers and wealth. The Ohio Canal terminates here, forming a water communication with the Ohio River at different points. The railroads diverging from Cleveland are the Cleveland and Erie, 95 miles; Cleveland and Pittsburgh, 100 miles, with several branches ; Cleveland and Mahoning, 67 miles finished ; Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati, 135 miles; and Cleveland and Toledo, Northern Division, 107 miles. These roads all run into one general depot, situated near the water's edge, afford- ing great facilities to the trans-shipment of freight of different kinds. The trade with the Upper Lakes is one of great and growing importance ; steamers leave daily for Detroit, Macki- nac, Green Bay, Chicago, the Saut Ste Marie, and Lake Superior. For list of steamers sailing from Cleveland and Detroit to the Upper Lakes, see page 140. Black River, 28 miles from Cleveland, is a small village with a good harbor, where is a ship-yard and other manufac- turing establishments. Vermilio]n-, 10 miles farther on the line of the Cleveland and Toledo Railroad, is a place of considerable trade, situated at the mouth of a river of the same name. Huron, Ohio, 60 miles from Cleveland and 10 miles from Sandusky, is situated at the mouth of Huron River, which affords a good harbor. It contains several churches, 15 or 20 stores, several warehouses, and about 2,000 inhabitants The islands lying near the head of Lake Erie, off Sandusky, are Kelley's Island, North Bass, Middle Bass, and South Bass islands, besides several smaller islands, forming altogether a handsome group. Kelley's Island is the largest and most important, but on the north side of South Bass Island lies the secure harbor of Put-in Bay, made celebrated by being the rendezvous of Com. Perry's flotilla before and after the decisive battle of Lake Erie, which resulted in the capture of the entire British fleet. 162 BUFFALO TO CLEVELAND, TOLEDO, ETC. NAYAL BATTLE ON LAKE EEIE. September 10th, 1813, the hostile fleets of England and the United States on Lake Erie met near the hea.d of the lake, and a sanguinary battle ensued. The fleet hearing the " red cross" of England consisted of six vessels, carrying 64 guns, under command of the veteran Com Barclay ; and the fleet bearing the " broad stripes and bright stars" of the United States, con- sisted of nine vessels, carrying 54 guns, under command of the young and inexperienced, but brave, Com. Oliver H. Perry. The result of this important conflict was made known to the •world in the following laconic dispatch, -writteai at 4 p.m. of that day : " Dear General : We have met the enemy, and they are ours. Two ships, two brigs, one schooner, and one sloop. *' With esteem, etc., 0. H. Perry. " Gen. William Jones." Mr. Powell, the artist, who painted the De Soto picture for Congress, has been appointed by the Ohio Legislature to paint a representation of Perry's Victory on Lake Erie — the price not to exceed $5,000. It will be placed in one of the panels of the rotunda of the new State House in Columbus, the capital of the State. OHIO RIVER, 4.ND LAKE ERIE CANALS. 163 EAILKOAD EOUTE ABOUND LAKE EEIE. This important body of water being encompassed by a band of iron, we subjoin the following Table of Distances : Miles. Buffalo to Paris, C. W., via Buffalo and Lake Huron Railroad ,^ 84 Paris to Windsor'or Detroit, via Great Western Railway. 158 Detroit to Toledo, Ohio, via Detroit and Toledo R.R 63 Toledo to Cleveland, via Cleveland and Toledo R.R 107 Cleveland to Erie, Pa., via Cleveland and Erie R.R 95 Erie to Buffalo, via Lake Shore Road 88 Total miles 595 The extreme length of Lake Erie is 250 miles, from the mouth of Niagara Kiver to Maumee Bay ; the circuit of the lake about 560 miles, being about 100 miles less distance than has been stated by some writers on the great lakes. OHIO EIVEE AND LAKE ERIE CANALb The completion of the ISIiami Canal, makes four distinct channels of communication from the Ohio River through the State of Ohio to Lake Erie, namely : 1. The E7-ie Extension Canal, from Beaver, twenty or thirty miles below Pittsburgh, to Erie, 136 miles. 2. The Cross- cut Beaver Canal, which is an extension or branch from Newcastle, Pa., on the Beaver Canal, to Akron, Ohio, where it nnites with the Portsmouth and Cleveland Canal — making a canal route from Beaver to Cleveland of 143 miles. 3. The Ohio Canal, from Cleveland to Portsmouth, through the center of the State, 309 miles. 4. The Miami Exteiision, which is a union of the Miami Canal with the Wabash and Erie Canal, through Dayton, terminating at Toledo, at the mouth of the Maumee River on Lake Erie, 247 miles. The vast and increas- ing business of the Ohio Valley may furnish business for all these canals. They embrace rich portions of Pennsylvania, Ohio, and Indiana ; but are not so located as to be free from competition with one another. At no distant time, they would unquestionably command a sufficient independent business, were it not probable that they may be superseded by railways. The capacity of railways— both for rapid and cheap transporta- tion — as it is developed by circumstances and the progress of science, is destined to affect very materially the value an,d im- portance of canals. 164 DISCOVERY OF A NEW IIAKBOR. 1 OPENING OF NAVIGATION IN LAKE ERIE. The following table, prepared by the Detroit Advertiser, from back files, sIioavs the time -when navagation has opened at this port for the past seventeen years : . . Steamer Star arrived from Cleveland. " Gen. Wayne arrived from Buffalo. , . " Gen. Scott cl'd for Buffalo. " Fairport cl'd for Cleveland. " Red Jacket cl'd for Fort Gratiot, " United States arrived from Buffalo, " .John Owen arrived from Cleveland. " United States " .Prop. ISIanhattan cl'd for Buffalo. . Steamer John Owen cl'd for Cleveland. *? Southerner arrived from Buffalo. " Hollister " " Toledo. " Arrow cl'd for Toledo. ♦' Bay City arrived from Sandusky. " May Queen " " Cleveland. " Arrow cl'd for Toledo. " May Queen cl'd for Cleveland. " Ocean cleared for Cleveland. 1840. .March 8. 1841. .April 18. 1842. . March 3 . 1843. .April 18. 1844. .March 11. 1845. . Jan'y 4 . 1846. .March 14. 1847. . " 30. 1848. . " 22. 1849. . " 21. 1850. . " 25. 1851 . . " 19. 1852. " 22, 1853, '. " ll'. 1854. , " 24, 1855. .April 2. 1856. , " 15. 1857. .March 24. PISCOYEKY OF A NEW HAEBOE IN LAKE HUEON. We learn from a Michigan paper that Capt, W. Gilmore, of the brig Sultan, having come into collision with a vessel off the Middle Island, on the night of October 27th, 1856, was driven by stress of the accident into Bail du Derd, on the north side of Lake Huron, about eighty miles above Goderich. Captain Gilmore, in a letter to the editor of the Port Bruce Pioneer, states that there is plenty of water in the harbor for the largest vessel on the lakes, and a safe anchorage. A pier inside the harbor is alone wanted to render the accommodations perfect. The captain expresses the opinion, that a light-house and a pier would render this bay one of the finest harbors on the lakes. Since this letter was written, we are informed that a small town has been planted in that locality. BUFFALO Buffalo City, Erie Co., N. Y., possessing commanding ad- vantages, is distant from Albany 298 miles by raikoad, and about 350 miles by the line of the Erie Canal; in N. lat. 42° 53', W. long. 78° 55' from Green^ch. It is favorably situated for commerce at the head of Niagara River, the outlet of Lake Erie, and at the foot of the great chain of Western lakes, and is the point where the vast trade of these inland seas is concentrated. The harbor, formed of Buffalo Creek, lies nearly east and west across the southern part of tne city, and is separated from the waters of Lake Erie by a peninsula be- tween the creek and lake. This harbor is a very secure one, and is of such capacity, that although steamboats, ships, and other lake craft, and canal boats, to the number, in all, of from three to four hundred, have sometimes been assembled there for the transaction of the business of the lakes, yet not one half part of the water accommodations has ever yet been occupied by the vast business of the great and growing West. The har- bor of Buffalo is the most capacious, and really the easiest and safest of access on our inland waters. Improvements are an- nually made by dredging, by the construction of new piers, wharves, warehouses, and elevators, which extend its facilities, and render the discharge and trans-shipment of cargoes more rapid and convenient; and in this latter respect is without an equal. Buffalo was first settled by the whites in 1801. In 18o2 it was chartered as a city, being now governed by a mayor, recorder, and board of aldermen. Its population in 1830, according to the United States Census, was 8,668 ; in 1840, 18,213 ; and in 1850, 42,261. Since the latter period the limits of the city have been' enlarged by taking in the town of Black Rock ; it is now divided into thirteen wards, and, according to the State Census of 1855, contained 74,214 inhabitants, being now the third city 166 BUFFALO. in point of size in the State of New York Ihe public "build ings are numerous, and many of them fine specimens of archi- tecture ; while the private buildings, particularly those for busi- ness purposes, are of the most durable construction and modern style. The manufacturing establishments are also numerous, and conducted on a large scale, producing manufactured articles for the American and Canadian markets. The lines of steamers and railroads diverging from Buffalo tend to make it one of the greatest thoroughfares in the Union. Steamers and propellers run to Cleveland, Toledo, Detroit, Mackinac, Saut Ste Marie, Green Bay, Milwaukee, Chicago, etc. The railroads diverging from Buffalo are the New York Cen- tral, extending to Albany 298 miles by direct route ; Buffalo Division of the New York and Erie Railroad ; Lake Shore Rail- road ; Buffalo, Niagara Falls, and Lewiston Railroad ; and the Buffalo and Huron Railroad, the latter running through Can- ada to Goderich on Lake Huron, and connecting with the Great Western Railway, terminating at Windsor, opposite Detroit. The principal hotels are the American, Clarendon, Commer- cial, and Mansion House, on Main Street, and the Weetern Hotel, facing the Terrace. " The climate of Buffalo is, without doubt, of a more even temperature than any other city in the same parallel of lati- tude from the Mississippi to the Atlantic coast. Observations have shown that the thermometer never ranges as low in win- ter, nor as high in summer, as at points in Massachusetts, the eastern and central portions of this State, the northern and southern shores of Lake Erie, in Michigan, Northern Illinois, and Wisconsin. The winters are not as keen, nor the summei'S, cooled by the breezes from the lake, as sultry ; and in a sani- tary point of view, it is probably the healthiest city in the world. " London, usually considered the healthiest of cities, has a ratio of one death in forty inhabitants The ratio of Buffiilo is one in fifty-six. The favorable situation of the city for drainage, and for a supply of pure water ; its broad, well-paved streets, lined with shrubbery and shade-trees ; its comparatively mild winters ; its cool summers ; its pleasant drives and pictur- esque suburbs, and its proximity to the ' Falls,' combine to render it one of the most desirable residences on the continent.'* BUFFALO. 167 In regard to the commerce of the " Fai West," much of which centers in Buffalo, a writer justly remarks : " Few men have duly estimated the value of our 1,500 miles of uninterrupted lake navigation. A coast of upward of 3,000 miles, connecting with numerous canals and railroads, whose aggregate length, when they shall be completed, will greatly exceecl the length of all our inland seas and coasts, must create an amount of commerce far greater than has ever yet been witnessed on the waters of the Mediterranean. The completion of the ship canal at the Saut Ste Marie alone opens an inland sea of vast and growing importance." TRADE AND COMMEECE OP BUFFALO— 1856. IMPORTS BY LAKE. The annual tables of the Lake Trade during the year, with some additional comparative statements showing the course of trade, the increase and decrease in the general average value of most articles, and other matters of interest concerning this trade during the year 1856, are copied from the Buffalo Courier. The value of Imports by Lake for the past six years is as follows : 1851 $31,889,951 1854 $45,030,931 1852 34,943,855 1855 50,346,819 1853 36,881,230 1856 45,684,079 This table exhibits a steady increase in the yearly valuation of the Lake Imports until last year, when there is a decrease as compared with 1855 of $4,662,740. This large decrease has been occasioned, not by a falling off in the receipts of the more valuable articles of import, but by the decline in the average value of nearly every description of produce. The following table will show the different States through whose ports have been shipped the following produce received at this port. Through Cleveland, Sandusky, Toledo, and a few smaller ports, we have received the products of Ohio, Indiana, Southern Illinois, and Kentucky, and through Chicago, the pro- ducts of Illinois, Iowa, Indiana, and Missouri. Ohio ports . Michigan . . Flour. ..641,155 ..203,125 ..122,472 Wheat 826,016 495,289 5,127,947 1,707,798 386,067 Com. 1,717,130 164,497 7,922,461 52,702 Oats. 1,094,015 42,314 648,326 Wisconsin . . Canada ..115,427 .. 60,906 39,146 Total . . . 1,143,085 8,543,117 9,846,790 1,723,801 168 BUFFALO. The following Table ■will show the entrances and clearances of foreign and American vessels, together with their tonnage and crews during the year 1856, and the total for the past 7 years : Arrived. No. Tons. Crews. American vessels from foreign ports 112 17,745 598 Foreign do., do 718 71,039 5,314 Total 830 Cleared. Amer. vessels to foreign ports 181 Foreign do., do 632 Total 813 Coasting trade. Inward 3,292 Outward 3,193 88,784 30,607 62,833 5,912 1,193 5,580 93,440 1,441,663 1,424,702 6,773 49,556 49,210 2,866,365 3,048,589 3,360,233 3,995,284 3,252,978 3,092,247 3,087,533 2,743,700 98,766 111.451 111,515 120,838 128,112 127,491 120,542 125,562 Total 6,485 Grand Total for 1856 8,128 " " 1855 9,231 " " 1854 8,972 " " 1853 8,298 " " 1852 9,441 " " 1851 9,050 " " 1850 8,444 The amount of new tonnage now on the stocks both at this and other Western ports, and destined for the trade of this city and the "West, will, we believe, increase the tonnage entering and departing from this district very materially during the coming season (1857), and that it must exceed any former year. Losses on the Lakes. — If the losses on the great Lakes during the past year are any indication of the amount of com- merce on our inland seas, it must have grown enormously since 1848. In that year the losses amounted to but a little over $400,000; in 1853 they had increased to nearly a million; in 1854 they were a little over two millions ; in 1855 over two and a half millions ; but the present year, 1856, they have reached the fearful sum of over three millions. But, large as this amount is, it does not seem so great when it is viewed in con- nection with the statement that the commerce of the Lakes passing the St. Clair Flats amounted in 1856 to more than three hundred millions of dollars, while the coasting trade not in- cluded in that estimate amounts to at least a hundred millions more. This looks very much like the course of empire taking a westerly direction. BUFFALO. 169 RECAPITULATION OF LOSSES OW THE LAKES — 1856. Losses in May, steam and sail ^!f q'??^ June, July, 118,550 266,130 67,750 August, " " -'-- September," " 342,860 October, " " ^ 882,039 November," " ^'?tH?^ December, " " 1^9,550 Total loss, steam and sail, in 1856 ^?'2S'oIn " in 1855 2,/9/,8o9 Increased loss • • • 241,035 Total loss of life in 1856 f 0/ " in 1855 118 Increase ZoJ Loss on steam huils' ^Ii?'?no Loss on cargoes by steam bio,6w Total loss by steam in 1856 I'So'ina " in 1855 l,692,/00 Decrease in 1856 ^St'^-S Loss on sail hulls -q-nqq Loss on cargoes by sail t\n ,yjJ^ Total loss by sail in 1856 l'?n?'i Jo " in 1855 1,105,139 Increase in 1856 $555,635 Synopsis of the Marine Register of the Board of I^ake TJn- derwrifers of vessels in commission on the lakes m the fall ol 1856. Number. Steamers 107 Propellers 135 Barqxies ^^ Brigs 108 Schooners 850 Total 1.256 D. P. DOBBINS, Sec'y Board of Lake Underwriterc. 15 Tonnage. Cash Value. 62,863 $3,320,400 54,675 2,741,200 21,773 673,800 27,045 701,850 173,380 5,487,100 339,736 $12,944,350 170 BUFFALO. EXPORTS FEOM UP-LAKE PORTS TO BUFFALO. STATEMENT, showing the several amounts of Flour and Grain ear/- ported hy Lake from various ports to Buffalo, during the season oj 1856: Flour, Whc.it, Coin, Oats. Rye, bWs. bush. bush. bush. bu.sh. Ashtabula 2,500 Allensbumh 1,200 Bavfield,C.W 50,115 Black River 1,600 Brantford, C. W 16,231 32,008 Port Burwell, C. W 18,164 Caledonia, C. W 2 726 Cavu^a 7,628 41,127 18 Cleveland 245,512 72,577 117,289 172,087 39,786 Chicago 119,772 5,100,293 7,834,615 587,9S6 Conneaut 1,2f St. Lawrence being rendered navigable for vessels of a large class by means of the Welland and other canals— thus enabling a loaded vessel to ascend or descend 600 feet above the level of the ocean, or tide-water. Of these lakes, Lake Su- perior has by far the largest area, being nearly equal in super- ficial extent to Lakes Huron and Michigan together, and Lake Ontario has the least, having a surface only about one fifth of that of Lake Superior, and being somewhat less in area than Lake Erie, although not much less, if any, in the circuit of itf shores. Lake Ontario is the safest body of water for naviga- tion, and Lake Erie the most dangerous. The ascertained tern perature in the midde of Lake Erie, August, 1845, was temper ature of air 76° Fahrenheit, at noon — water at surface 73° — at bottom 53°. The lakes of greatest interest to the tourist or scientific traveler are Ontario, Huron, together with Georgian Bay and North Channel, and Lake Superior. The many pic- turesque islands and headlands, together with the pure waters of the Upper Lakes, form a' most lovely contrast during the summer and autumn months. The altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of the Upper Lakes does not exceed from 600 to 2,500 feet above the level of the ocean, while the altitude of the land which forms the water-shed of Lake Champlain and the lower tributaries of the St. Lawrence River rises from 4,000 to 5,000 above the level of the sea or tide-water, in the States of Vermont and New York. The divide which separates the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, from those flowing northeast into the St. Lawrence, do not in some places exceed ten or twenty feet above the level of Lakes Michigan and Superior ; in fact, it is said that Lake Michigan, when under the influence of high water and a strong northerly wind, discharges some of its surplus waters into the Illinois River, and thence into the Mississippi and Gulf of Mexico — so low is the divide at its southern terminus. 16 182 MAGNITUDE OF THK LAKES. COAST LINE OF THE GREAT LAKES AN^D SHORES OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER, ETC. AMERICAN SIDE. States, etc. Coast Line. Minnesota,!/. Sw^erior, 150 ms. Wisconsin, Michigan, 120 " 430 " " St. Mary's River 50 " " Huron and Strait 100 " « L.Michigan, 50 " Wisconsin, " ... 200 " Illinois, " ... 60 " Indiana, 40 Michigan, " ... 300 •' Strait of Mackinac 50 " L. Huro?i, " St. Clair River. " St. Clair Lake . , " Detroit River . Michigan, JSj-ie, Ohio, " . . Pennsylvania, " New York, " . " Niagara River. 2G0 " 38 " 30 " 27 *' 30 " 180 " 40 " 70 " 35 " New York, L. Ontario, 180 " St. Lawrence R. 100 Lower Canad?^, "... 666 Total miles . . . 3,206 Boundaries. Pigeon River to mouth St. Louis River. St. Louis River to mouth Mon- treal River. Montreal River to mouth St. Mary's River. Saut Ste Marie to Pt. de Tour. Pt. de Tour to Pt. Seuil Choix. Pt. Seuil Choix to Green Bay. Green Bay to 111. State line Illinois State line to Indiana State line. Indiana State line to Michigan State line. State line to Strait of Mackinac. Fox Point to Lake Huron. Strait of Mackinac to mouth St. Clair River. Fort Gratiot to Lake St. Clair West shore. Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie. Detroit River to Maumee Bay. Maumee Bay to Penn. State line. State line to N. York State line. State line to mouth Niagara River. Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. Mouth Niagara River to St. Lawrence River. Lake Ontario to 45th degre*^ N. lat. St. Regis to Gulf of St. Law rence. Lake Superior 450 ms. St. Mary's River 50 " CC^ST LINE CANADIAN SIDE. Pigeon River to St. Mary's R. Saut Ste Marie to foot St Joseph Island. MAGNITUDE OF THE LAKES. 183 / L. Huron, {JV. Chan.) 145 ms. St. Joseph Islana to Georgian Bay " {Georgian Bay) 230 " Shebawanahning to Colling- wood and Cabot's Head. Lake Huron, (proper) 200 " Cabot's Head to mouth St. Clair River. St. Clair River 38 " Port Sarnia to Lake St. Clair. St. Clair Lake 30 '' East shore Detroit River 27 " Lake St. Clair to Lake Erie. Lake Erie 250" Mouth of Detroit River to Niagara River. Niagara River 35 " Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. Lake Ontario 230 " Mouth Niagara River to Ham- ilton and foot of Lake. St. Lawrence River .. . 766 " Lake Ontario to Gulf of St. Lawrence. Total miles 2,451 Gratid Total, Lake and River Coast, 5,657 miles. TKIBUTAPJES OF THE ST. LAWEE:NCE EIYER. UxLiKE the tributaries of the Mississippi, the streams falling into the Great Lo,kes or the St. Lawrence River are mostly rapid, and navigable only for a short distance from their mouihs The following are the principal rivers that are navigable for any considerable length : AMERICAIV SIDE. Miles, St. Louis River, Min Superior to Fond du Lac. 20 Fox, or Neenah, Wis Green Bay to L. Winnebago 36 St. Joseph, Mich St. Joseph to Niles 23 Grand River, " Grand Haven to Gd. Rapids 4 ' Muskegon, " Muskegon to Newaygo .... 40 Saginaw, " Saginaw Bay to Upper Sag 26 Maumee, Ohio Maumee Bay to Perrysb li. 18 Genesee, N. Y Charlotte to Rochester .... 6 CANADIAN SIDE, Miles, Thames Lake St. Clair to Chatham 24 Ottawa La Chine to Carillon 40 " {By means of locka to Ot- tawa City) 70 Richelieu or Sorel Sorel to Lake Champlain {by meayis of locks) . . 75 Saguenay Tadusac to Chicoutimi .... 70 (thence to Lake St. John, 50 m.) 184 MAGNITUDE OF '1 II fc LVKES. ST. LAWRENCE EIVER AND LAKE NAVIGATION, FROM FOND DU LAC, LAKE SL'PEEIOR, TO ANTICOSTI. lAivs Kiv-!t-< VTC Lfii?th In Greatest Av. D,pt!i tl. Hl'nve Superior 420 160 80 1,000 GOO ^t. Mary's River 50 4 1 Michigan 330 82 58 900 576 Green Bcay 100 25 18 100 576 Strait of Mackinac 30 20 10 40 to 200 Huron 260 , 110 70 900 574 North Channel 160 20 10 200 574 Georgian Bay 140 55 40 500 574 St. Clair River 38 1 St. Clair Lake* 20 25 15 8 to 20 5G8 Detroit River 27 3 1 Lake Erie 250 60 38 204 565 Niagara River 35 3 1 Lake Ontario 180 58 40 600 235 St. Lawrence River 766 60 2 Lake St. Francis 3 142 Lake St. Louis, ^ • • • Mouth Ottawa River, } ... 6 58 Elevation at Montreal 13 Tide-water at Three Rivers. Total miles 2,806 * The St. nair Ffat% which have to be passed by all large steamers and sail vessels runnino; from Lake Erie to tne Upper Lakes, now afford? only eight or ten feet of water, the channel being very narrow and intricate. An appropriation, however, has recently been made by the government of the United States for improving the channel through the St. Clair Flats, which, no doubt, will effectually remove the obstruction to navigation. Note.— Lake Baikal, the most extensive body of fresh water on the Eastern Continent, situated in Southern Siberia, between lat. 51° and 55° north, is about 370 miles in length, 45 miles average width, and about 900 miles in circuit; being somewhat larger than Lake Erie in area. Its depth in some places is very great, being in part surrounded by hir'* mountains. The Yenisei, its outlet, flows north into the Arctic Ocean LIST OF STEAMERS BUILT ON LAKE ERIE, ETC., SINCE THEIR FIRST mTRODUCTION IN 1818. Hiii". 'Rin-. T-.n«. Wht-n' l.ni't. K ■in r';-i 1818. . Walk-in-the-Water. 342. .Black Eock, N. T.— wrecked Nov., 1821. 1822. .Superior (1st) 800. .Buffiilo, N. Y.— changed to a siiip. 1324 . . Chippewa 100 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— broken up. 1825 . . Henry Clay 348 . . Lake Michigan— broken up. " . . Pioneer 230 . . Black Eoek, N. Y.— broken up. " ..Niagara (1st) 180.. Black Eock, N. Y.— burnt in lS-12. 1-2(5.. William Penn 275.. Erie, Penn.— broken up. " ..Enterprise 2.50.. Cleveland, 0.- broken up. 1829. .AVra. Peacock 120. .Barcelona, N. Y.- exploded boiler 163'i. '' . .Newburyport 75. .Erie, Penn.— broken up. 1330. . Sheldon Thompson. 242 . . Huron, Mich.— broken up. " ..Ohio (1st) 187.. Sanduskv, O.— sunk 1837. " ..Adelaide (British).. 230.. Chippewa, C. W.— wrecked 1840. 1881 . . Gratiot 63 . . Charleston— broken up. 1832 .. Pennsylvania 395. .Erie, Penn.— broken up. " . . Gen. Brady 100 . . Detroit, Mich.— broken up. " . . Uncle Sam 280 . . Grosse Isle, Mich.— broken up. " . . Perseverance 50 . . Erie, Penn.— broken up. 1833 . . Washington (1st) ... 600 . . Huron, Mich.— wrecked 1833. " . . New York 325 . . Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up. " . . Michigan (1st) 472 . .Detroit, Mich.— broken up. " ..Daniel Webster.... 358. .Black Eock, N. Y.— burnt 1835. " . .Detroit (1st) 240. .Toledo, 0.— wrecked 1836. • " . .Lady of the Lake. . 60. .Mt. Clemens, Mich.— broken up. " ..Gov.Marcy 161.. Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up. " ..North America 862.. Conneaut, 0.— broken up. " ..Newberry 170.. Palmer, Mich.— broken up. " . . Delaware 170 . . Huron, Mich.— wrecked 1834. 1884 . . Victory 77 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— broken up. " . . Gen. Porter 342 . . Black Eock, N. Y.— name ch. to Toronto. " ..Jefferson 428. .Erie, Penn. — broken up. " . . Com. Perry 352 . . Perrysburg, 0.— boiler exploded 1835. " ..Monroe 341. .Monroe, Mich.— broken up. " . . Mazeppa 130 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— changed to schooner. " . . Sandusky 877 . . Sandusky, 0.— burnt 1843. " . .Minnessetunk (Br.) 250. .Goderich, C. W.— broken up. " . . Jackson 50 . . Mt. Clemens, Mich.— broken up. " .. Jack Downing 80. .Sandusky, O. — changed to schooner. " . . Little Western (Br.) 60 . . Chatham, C. W.— burnt 1842. 1835 . . Eobert Fulton 308 . . Cleveland, O.— wrecked In 1842. " ..Columbus 391.. Huron, Mich.— broken up. " . . Charles Townsend . 812 . . Buffalo, N. Y. — broken up. " ..United States 866. .Huron, Mich.— broken up. " ..Chicago 166.. St. Joseph, Mich.— wrecked in 1842. " . . W. F. P. Tavlor ... 95 . . Silver Creek, N. Y.— wrecked 1-38. " . . Thames (British). . . 160 . . Chatham, C. W.— burnt 1833. 1886.. De Witt Clinton. .. . 493.. Huron, Mich. -broken up. " . .Julia Palmer* 800. .Buffalo, N. Y.— broken up. " . .Don Quixote 80 . .Toledo, O.— wrecked 1836. " . . Crockett 18 . . Brunersburg— wrecked 1844. * Taken over the portage at the Saut Ste Marie in 1846. 16* 186 LIST OF STEAMERS. I5u It. Name. Tons. Wheie built. Eemarks. 1 836 .. Little Erie 149 . . Detroit, Mich.— lost in 1842. " ..Barcelona (British). 102. .Dunnville, C. W. — changed to schooner. " . .United (British) ... 40 .. Detroit, Mich.— blown up. " ..St. Clair 250.. Sandusky, O. " ..Cincinnati 116. .Sandusky, 0.— changed to schooner. 1837. .Illinois (1st) 755. .Detroit, Mich.— broken up. " ..Eochester 472. .Eichmond— changed to sail vessel. " . .Madison 630. .Erie, Penn.— broken up. " . . Cleveland 580 . . Huron, Mich.— burnt in 1854. " . . Wisconsin 700 . . Conneaut, 0. — broken up. " ..Erie 497. .Erie, Penn.— burnt Aug., 1841. " . . Constellation 483 . . Charleston— broken up. " ..Bunker Hill 457. .Charleston— broken up. " . . Constitution 443 . . Conneaut, 0. — broken up. " . .New England 416. .Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up. " ..Milwaukee 400. .Grand Island— wrecked 1S42. " . . Anthony Wayne . . . 390 . . Perrysburg, 0.— blown up 1850. " ..Macomb 100. .Mt. Clemens, Mich. — tow boat. " . .Ehode Island 164. .Sandusky, O.— wrecked. " ..Star 128.. Belvidere, Mich.— broken up. " ..Goderich (British). 200.. " . . Commerce 80 . . Sandusky, O. " . .Mason 83 . . Grand Eapids, Mich. ' 838 . . Great Western 780 . . Huron, Mich, —broken up . " . . Buffalo 613 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— changed to sail vessel. " . . Chesapeake 412 . . Maumee, 0.— sunk 1846. . . Vermilion 385 . . Vermilion, O.— burnt 1842. " ..Lexington 363. .Charleston, 0.— broken up. " ..Fairport 259. .Fairport, 0. — name changed. " ..Eed Jacket 14S. .Grand Island, N. Y. " .. Gen. Vance 75 .. Perry sburg, O. " . . James Allen 258 . . Chicago, 111. " ..Washington (2d)... 380. .Ashtabula, 0.— burnt 1838. " . . G. W. Dale 162 . . Chicago, 111. " ..C.C.Trowbridge.. 52. .Kalamazoo, Mich. " ..Marshall 51. .Perrysburg, 0. " ..Wabash 84 . " . . Owashenonk 45 . . Grand Haven, Mich " ..Patronage 56.. St. Joseph, Mich. 1839 . . Gen. Scott 240 . . Huron, Mich.— sunk 1847. " ..Chautauque 200.. Buffalo, N. Y. " . . Brothers (British) . . 150 . . Chatham, C. W.— broken up. " . . Kent (British) 1 80 . . Ch atham, C. W. " ..Huron 140. .Newport, Mich. — broken up. " . .Harrison (Ist) 63. .Erie, Penn. — broken up. 1840.. Detroit (2d) 850. .Newport, Mich.— sunk in Lake Huron, " . . Missouri 612 . . Vermilion — broken up. " ..Waterloo 100.. Black Eock, N. Y.— broken up. " .. Harrison (2d) 362.. Maumee, O.— broken up. 1841. .Indiana 434. .Toledo, O.— burnt 1848. 1842 . . Benj. Franklin 231 . . Algonac, Mich. — wrecked. " . . John Owen 230 . . Detroit, Mich.— tow boat. 1843. .Nile 600 .. Detroit, Mich.— wrecked 1849. " ..Union 64.. Black Eock, N. Y. " . . Champion 270 . . Newport, Mich.— broken up. 1844. .Emerald (British). . 250. .Chippewa, C. W. " ..Empire 1,136.. Cleveland, O. — running on Lake Erie. " ..Tecumseh 259.. (Old Fairport)— wrecked in 1S50. " . . J. Wolcott 80 . .Maumee, 0.— burnt in 1861. LIST OF STEAMERS. 187 Built. NHtne. Tons. Where ImiU. Remarks. 1844. .Indian Queen 112. .BuflFalo, N. Y.— wrecked in 1846. " . . New Orleans. 610 . . Detroit, Mich.— wrecked 1849. " . . Bt. Louis 618 . . Perrysburg, O.— wrecked in 1852. " ..U. S. St. Michigan. 583 .. Erie, Penn. — in commission. " . . "' Abert 133 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— in commission. 1845. .Nin^ara (2d) 1,084. .Buffalo, N. Y.— burnt Sept., 1856. " . . Boston 775 . . Detroit, Mich.— wrecked 1846. " . . Oregon 781 . . Newport, Mich.— burnt 1849. " . . Troy 547 . . Maumee, O. — laid up. " . . Superior (2d) 567 . . Perrysburg, 0.— wrecked Oct., 1856. " . . Lexington 863 . . Black Eiver. 0. " . . Astor 200 . . Green Bay, Wis.— wrecked. " ..Enterprise 100.. Green Bay, Wis. " . .London (British). . . 456. .Chippewa, C.W.— changed to sail vessel. " . . Helen Strong 253 . . Monroe, Mich. — wrecked in 1846. " ..Eomeo 180. .Detroit, Mich. — tow boat. 1846. .Albany 6B9. .Detroit, Mich.— wrecked in 1854 " . . Hendrick Hudson. . 750 . . Black Eiver, O. — runs on Lake Erie. " . . Louisiana. . 900 . . Buffalo, N. Y. — runs on Upper Lakes. " . . Saratoga 800 . . Cleveland, O.— wrecked in 1854. " . . Canada (British) . . . 800 . . Chippewa, C. W. — changed to barque. 1847 .. Baltic 825 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— changed to propeller. " ..Sultana 800.. Trenton, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes. " . . A. D. Patchin 870 . . Trenton, Mich.- wrecked in 1850. " . . Baltimore 500 . . Monroe, Mich. — wrecked in 1855. " ..Diamond 336. .Buffalo, N. Y.— tow boat. " . . Pacific. 500 . . Newport, Mich.— changed to sail vessel. " . . Ohio (2d) 600 . . Cleveland, O.— tow boat. " . . Samuel Ward 450 . . NeAvport, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron. " ..Southerner 500. .Trenton, Mich.— wrecked in 1S53. 1848 . . Arrow 850 . . Cleveland, 0. — runs on Lake Erie. " . . Alabama 600 . . Detroit, Mich.— sunk in 1854. " . . Eraukliu Moore. . . . 800 . . Newport, Mich. — tow boat. " ..J.D.Morton 400. .Toledo, O.— tow boat. " . .Empire State 1,700. .St. Clair, Mich.— laid up. " . . Queen City 1,000 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes. " . . Globe 1,200 . . Detroit, Mich.— changed to propeller. " . . Columbia 167 . . Fairport, O. " . .Charter 350 .. Detroit, Mich. — changed to propeller. " . .John Hollister 300. .Perrysburg, 0.— burnt on Lake Erie. 1849. .Atlantic 1,100 .. Newport, Mich.— sunk in Lake Erie 1853. " . .May Flower 1,300. .Detroit, Mich.— wrecked in 1S54. " . Keystone State 1,500. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lakes. " . . Telegraph 181 . . Truargo, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. 1850. .Dart 297. .Trenton, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. " . . Do ver (British) .... 81 . . Port Dover, C. W. " ..Ocean 900. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. " ..May Queen 688 runs on Lake Erie. 1851 . .Arctic 867. .Newport.Mich.— runs on Lake Michigan. " ..Bay City 479. .Trenton, Mich.— runs on Lake Erie. " . .Buckeye State 1,274. .Cleveland, 0.— runs on Upper Lakes. " . .Northerner 514. .Cleveland, O.— sunk in 1856. " . Pearl 251 . .Newport, Mich.— runs on Lake St. Clair. " . .Ploughboy (British) 450. .Chatham, C. W.— runs on Lake Huron. " . . Mazeppa (British) . 250 runs on Lake Huron. " ..Queen (British) 64 .Dunnville, C.W.— runs on Lake St. Clair " ..Minnesota 749. .Maumee, 0. " . . Caspian 1,050. .Newport, Mich.— wrecked in 1852. " . .Lady Elgin 1,037. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Upper Lak''^ 188 LIST OF STEAMERS. Built Nime. Tons. Where l.uill. Reniaiks. 1852. . Cleve and 574. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes " ..Golden Gate 771. .Buffalo, N. Y.— wrecked in 1S56. " ..Huron 348. .NeAvport, Mich. " . . Traveller 603 . . Newport, Mich. - runs on Upper Lakes. " . .Michigan (2d) — . .Detroit, Mich. — runs on Upper Lakes. 1853. .Crescent City 1,740. .Buffalo, N. T.- runs on Lake Erie. " . .Queen of the' "West. 1,851. Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. " . . Mississippi 1,829 . .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. " . .St. Lawrence 1,844. .Buffalo, N. Y. — laid up. " . .E. K. Collins 950. .Newport, Mich.— burnt Oct., 1854. " . . Ariel 1 65 . . Sanduskv, 0. — runs on Lake Erie. " . . Garden City —. .Buffalo, N. Y. -wrecked May, 1854. " . . Canadian (British) . 389 . . Chatham, C. W. — runs on Georgian Bay. " . . Collingwood (Br.). . — runs on Georgian Bay " ..T.Whitney 238. . Saginaw, Mich. " . . Northern Indiana . .1,470 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— burnt Aug., 185G. " . .Southern Michigan.1,470. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. " . .Forrester 504. .Newport, Mich.— runs on Lake Huron. 1854. .Plymouth Eock. . . .1,991. .Buffalo, N. Y.-runs on Lake Erie. " . .Western World. . . .2,000. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. " . . North Star 1,106 . . Cleveland, 0. — runs on Upper Lakes. " . .Illinois 926. .Detroit, Mich, runs on Upper Lakes. " . .K. R. Elliott 321. .Newport, Mich.— tow boat. " . . Clifton (British) .... 247 . Chippewa, C. W.— lake aiid river St. Clair. 1855. .Forest Queen 462. .Newport, Mich, -runs on Lake Huron. " ..Planet 1,154.. Newport, Mich.— runs on Upper Lakes " . . Island Queen 173 . . Kelley's Island— runs on Lake Erie. 1856.. Amity (British) .... 217.. Chatham, C. W. " . . Magnet 256 . . Saginaw, Mich. — runs on Lake Huron " . . Western Metropolis 1,8G0 . . Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. " . . Uncle Ben 155 . . Buffalo N. Y.— tow boat. 185T. .City of Buffalo 2,200. .Buffalo, N. Y.— runs on Lake Erie. Note. — Besides the above list, there are a few small steamers of which nothing is known other than their names, among these ai'e the Penetanguishene, Cynthia, Pontiac, Phenomenon, etc. The Steamer Caroline, whose destruction filled so large a portion of public notice, was originally known as the Carolina, and is believed to have been built in New York, at an early date, then sent to Charleston, S. C, where she ran for several years. Before passing into Lake Erie she ran a couple of seasons on the Hudson River, between Albany and Troy, when her guards were shipped so as to admit her through the Erie and Oswego Canals. She was re-built at Ogdensburgh, N, Y., in 1834, and passed through the Welland Canal into Lake Erie. The date of her destruction by the British at Schlosser, near Niagara Falls, was Dec. 29, 1837, when five lives were supposed to be lost. PROPOSED SHIP CANAL. 189 LAKE ERIE AND MICHIGAN SHIP CANAL. From the Buffalo {2f. Y.) Commercial, March, 1S57. " This project is attracting the attention of Western and Eastern papers. No doubt is expressed as to the practi- cability of the construction of the Canal. In fact, it is con- ceded that one can be built across the base of the peninsula without deep cutting, and the probability is that it would not exceed fifty feet at any particular point But while they grant the feasibility of the plan, they occasionally express the opinion that it will be a long time before it will bo built, if ever. Now, why not, pray ? Because, we suppose, it would cost a pretty round figure to build it. Is this an insurmountable objection, if the construction of the work be entirely feasible ? if all the shipping to and from Lake Michigan, present and to come, will pass through it ? if the margin in the original cost and the tinje of a trip, via the straits and Lake Huron, and via the canal, be, as it would be, largely in favor of the latter, thus making it capable of producing a good per centage of tolls ?— the accomplishment of which would yield a remunerative revenue." The Toledo (Ohio) Comm".rcial has the following: " The harbor of Toledo afibrds the only suitable terminus for the proposed Ship Canal on Lake Erie, and there can scarcely be a doubt that it will be adopted by any company which may be organized for constructing the work. But in view of the im- mense importance of the canal to the interests of Toledo, would it not be well for our board of trade to look into the matter, and keep an eye open for any possible speculative movement which may be set on foot to select some other starting point ? There should, indeed, be enterprise enoiigh among our own citizens to take the initiative in this most important pi'oject. Under oar general law, a company might be organized here for the portion of the line lying within the State of Ohio ; and a similar organization could very readily be effected in Indiana, for the extension through that State. A large local interest in the stock would effectually secure to Toledo the advantages to which she is entitled by natural position ; supposing, always, that the canal is to be opened— of which there really ought to be no doiibt. " A route for the canal, eminently practicable, and without deep cutting or heavy lockage, can be found, we are confident, through Ohio and Indiana." 17 190 PROPOSED SHIP CANAL. The following is from the Monroe (Mich.) Commercial : '* For many years past the public attention has, at times, been directed to the importance of a ship cayial from Monroe, on Lake Erie, to the waters of Lake Michigan. The project is perfectly feasible, but railroad enterprises have of late been so numerous, as to divert public attention from the benefits and objects of such a canal. The absolute necessities of commerce, however, are such as to bring the subject forcibly and favor- ably before the community, and the great commercial intere.sts of certain locations are intimately connected with the comple- tion of such a work. For instance, the project now on foot in Canada West, and portions of New York, of which Oswego is the commercial center, for constructing a ship canal, to connect Lakes Ontario and Huron, if carried forward to completion, would be a more fatal blow to the prosperity of Buffalo than any grefit work of improvement that could be made on the American continent. The immense trade between the great agricultural States in the West, and the Atlantic States in the East, now tributary to Buffalo, would seek the new route, and make Oswego, at the expense, and to the destruction of Buffalo, the great commercial metropolis of the lakes. The citizens of Western New York see this, and the necessity of availing them- selves of a rival, and more ready and feasible route for a ship canal, to retain the ascendency they already possess, and se- cure forever, and beyond doubt, the trade, business, and profits of the business of the great West. " A ship canal from Monroe to the navigable waters of Lake Michigan will accomplish this. The canal would be easily made, and would always be abundantly supplied with water from the lake, in the county of Hillsdale, which is now the source of four of the principal rivers of this State. The canal would make a direct line, and of course the shortest one that could be made, between Chicago and Buffalo and the Atlantic cities, and be certain of securing the transportation of the grain and provision trade of the West, and all the heavy freight business that now moves tediously by the protracted route of the lakes. The distance would be shortened more than half, or some five to six hundred miles, and that the expenses now incurred for insurance on produce, vessels, and goods, by the lakes, and the loss of property on Lakes Hm-on and Michigan, would pay the construction of the canal in a very fcAV years. " Wliy, then, should this great and important work be longer delayed .^ A discerning public can see its absolute necessity, and security and permanency of great commercial interests urge its construction, by every consideration of self-preserva- tion and future greatness. " We do say that Monroe and Michigan are also deeply in- LAKE AND OCKAN NAVIGAIION". 191 terested in this great ship canal, and that they can do much tc encourage its construction at an early day. liuif.ilo is moving, and let Monroe and Southern Michigan second the move. The object can not fail to enlist the hearty co-operation of Southern Michigan, and we call upon our citizens to wake up to the great work. It is not only a feasible improvement, but will prove an eminently successful one, and will work a revolution in the commerce of the Northwest that will make Monroe one of the greatest cities of the lakes." DIRECT TEANSPOETATION FROM LAKE SUPERIOR TO LIVERPOOL. From the St. Paul (Miimesota) Advertiser. " A^r article from the European Times recites the arrival at Liverpool, direct from Chicago, of the schr ' Dkan Richmo^'p,' whose departure we announced some three months ago. In this simple announcement is contained the initial fact of a new era in commercial history, and issues of startling and overwhelm- ing significance crowd upon the calmest vicAv of its relations with the future West. It seems to us — we know not if we ap- prehend its bearings correctly — that the results of this experi- ment must be an eventual revolution of the internal traffic of the Western States. It virtually makes our inland lakes the Mediterranean Sea of North America, and Chicago becomes the Alexandria of modern times. It peels off the littoral rind of the New World at a stroke— and splits the ripe apple of the conti- nent to its core. Ocean commerce will follow that entering wedge. Direct transportation will inevitably supersede the ex- pensive and complicated machinery employed in conveying Western grain through its present channels — which, besides in- volving several expensive trans-shipments, is attended with an important diminution of bulk. The Atlantic, tne far Bos- phorus, the Baltic, and the seas of the old hemisphere, will flow in through the rent torn by the keel of the ' Dean Kichmond,' and the majestic commerce of the ocean overleaping the huge complications of human ingenuity — ^passing in triumph p-ist the monuments of Clinton's genius, past canals and railroad.s, rail- roads and canals — through rivers and lakes, 2,000 miles into the interior — will plant its sea-worn flags upon the shores of Lake Michigan, and sit in royal state like another queen of Sheba, on the throne that Western industry shall build for her in the chief city of the interior plain of North America. No- body can doubt that the demonstrated practicability of direct shipment from Chicago to Europe will eventually transfer the 192 LAKR AND OCh;AN NAVIGATTON. business of transportation to this channel. An inevitavle con- sequence of this will be the enlargement of the Weliand Ship Canal,* the ring-bolt in the chain of communication from the ocean to the lakes, to a capacity sufficient for a ship of any re- quired size. The application of steam will overcome the delays of navigation, and the path opened by the ' Dean Richmond' will be thronged with the flags of every nation. But this is not all. Wliat is true of Lake Michigan is true of Lake Superior. What is possible by the Weliand Canal is equally possible with the Saut Ste Marie. The splendid chain of inland navigation does not end with Chicago. It is complete to the extreme west- ern end of Lake Superior. Here, at the uttermost limit of ship-navigation, the town of Superior, some two years old, and containing not more than 1,000 inhabitants, is slowly rising on the shores of the queen lake, from the somber woods that sur- round it, to meet the majestic destiny that is creeping with slow pace up the St. Lawrence and through the lakes toward her, to cast the commerce of the ocean at her feet, and crown her with a diadem of ocean pearls. Nor is this all. The ocean highway, extending from the mouth of the St. Lawrence to the extremity of Lake Superior, will be the basis of the whole sys- tem of Western railroads. A jVorthern Pacific RaUruad, with a tei'minus at Superioi-, is the necessary supplement of the navigable highway we have described. The arguments in its favor are irresistible, unanswerable. It is a logical deduction from the whole law of railroads. The paramount purpose of the Pacific Railroad, we take to be, to facilitate the commercial intercourse between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, in other words, to facilitate transportation. Now transportation is im- pelled by an irresistible impulse in the cheapest route. Ilcnce gravitation itself is scarcely more a law than the tendency of railroads to the nearest water-course in the dii'ection of their destination. They break oif at once by a sort of physical ne- cessity, as transporting agencies, at the nearest navigable water communication. One always ends where the other begins. The commercial apparatus of the country is full of instances per- tinent to this. By this long chain of inland lakes, covering nearly half of the distance between the Atlantic and Pacific coasts, nature seems to point with the force of a divine decree to a supplementary railroad route to the Pacific, to connect at its nearest span the ocean navigation of the opposite sides of the continent, and there can be no doubt that, other things being equal in feasibility of a route west of the Mississippi, the first road to the Pacific will abut on the shore of Lake Superior." * Also the coustruction of a ship canal around the Falls of Niagara, ou the American or New York side of the river. THE COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. Extract from the Report of the Congressional Committee on the subject of the Commerce of the Lakes. The following (from the Cleveland Herald) is the total Ton- nage of the Lakes for 1854: and 1855, including the steam ton- nage for the same years : Districts. Tonnage. Steam Tonnage. 1854. 1855. 1S55. Sackett's Harbor 7,570 6,2li7 1 ,944 Oswego 24,365 42,400 5,199 Genesee 233 128 Niagara 8G8 468 128 Oswegatchie 3,744 4,485 3,042 Buffalo Creek 82,678 76,952 38,262 Cape Vincent 4,866 6,609 1,143 Presque Isle 8,210 9.269 4,720 Cuyahoga 45,483 51,078 15,012 Sandusky 6,084 8,051 806 Miami 5,479 3,763 115 Detroit 52,363 65.058 32.180 Mackinac 4,393 4,431 2,397 Milwaukee 14,117 15,673 288 Chicago 31 ,041 50,972 3,207 Total tonnage 291,231 345,729 108,243 " Increase of lake tonnage (steam and sail) from June oOth, 1854, to June 80th, 1855, a fraction over 18 8-0 per cent. " Ratio of steam to sail tonnage for 1855, a small fraction less than 1-3. TOTAL TOIVNAGE OF THE UiVITED STATES FOR 1854 AND 1855. Registered. Enrolled. Total Tonnage. 1854 2,333,819 2,469,083 4,802,902 1855 2,535,136 2,676,864 5,212,000 " Ratio of increase of lake tonnage over the aggregate total tonnage of the United States, a fraction over 2 3-10 per cent, per annum more than double;, or as 18 8-10 to 8-12 in favor of lake tonnage, ichich thus constitutes 1 1-15 of the entire ton- nage of the il. States. " The clearances of vessels from ports in the U, S. to Canada, and the entries of vessels from Canada to ports in the U. S., 194 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. during the year 1855, show a greater amount of tonnage en- tered and cleared than between the U. States a id any other for- eign country. " Fi'om the U. S. to Canada there were 2,369 clearances of American vessels, and 6,638 of Canadian, making a total of 9,007. The total tonnage was 1,793,519. The clearances from Canada to the U. S. for the same time were 2,464 American vessels and 4,194 Canadian, making a total of 6.648, with a total tonnage of 1,767,730. and a total tonnage back and forth of 3,561,249. "The value of lake tonnage for 1864, $10,185,000; at an average of $43 per ton, this would make the value of the in- creased tonnage for 1855 (\dz., 345,000 tons) reach $14,835,000. " The following table shows the value of the lake commerce for 1855, excluding the districts of Presque Isle and Mackinac, and not including^ the freight and passenger trade : Districts. Tonnage Ent'd & Cleared. Val. of Imp'ts. & Exp'ta. Cuyahoga 1,782,493 $162,185,640 Buffalo Creek 3,330,232 333,023,000 Sandusky 59,966,000 Maumee 1,034,644 94,107,000 Chicago 2,632,000 233,878.000 Detroit 1,538,000 140,000.000 Milwaukee 35.000,000 Oswego 1,607,000 145,235,000 Sackett's Harbor, 1 Cape Vincent, Oswegatchie, y.... 42,226,000 Niagara, Exports and Imports $1,216,620,640 Total value of lake commerce, excluding Presque Isle and Mackinac $608,310,390 " This sum may seem incredible to those unacquainted with the immense carrying trade of these lakes. But the figures will show that the trade between the U. S. and Canada, car- ried on over the lakes, is in value next to that between France and the U. S. The amount of American goods sent to Canada is $9,950,764, and the amount of foreign goods, but passing through American hands, is $8,769,280; while the amount of goods sent from Canada to the States is $12,182,314, making a total trade between the two countries of $30,902,658.* * These figures are very convincing of the fact that the interests of the Canadas with the United'States are oi e and identical- and the commer- cial and social good understanding happily existing between the two COMMERCE OF Th £ LAKES. 195 " The actual value of property exposed to the perils of lake navigation is considerably greater than the total value of the merchandise of every description exported from the U. S. to all foreign countries, added to the total value of merchandise im- ported //o//* a/l foreign countries into the United States. " The dangers to which our lake commerce is exposed are three, viz., shipwreck, collision, and stranding. These arc shown to be in a great measure attributable to the narrow area over which this commerce is carried on, the stormy char- acter of the lakes, the exposed condition of the lake coasts, and the want of natural or artificial harbors of commerce or of refuge for the lake shipping. " Tlie following are the dimensions of the lakes and their connecting rivers : Lakes. Length. Greatest breadth. Av. breadth. Areas. Ontario 180 52 40 5,400 Erie 240 57 38 7,800 Huron 270 105 70 20,400 Michigan . . 340 83 58 20,000 St. Clair... 20 25 25 300 1,050 461 53,900 Str. Detroit. 27 — St. Clair .... 38 — 1,115 total length. " Thus a vessel sailing from Cape Vincent, Lake Ontario, to Chicago, Lake Michigan, by keeping the c^iter lines of the lakes, will sail 1,115 miles; and yet will average not more than 23 miles from shore throughout the whole distance. •' But the coast line of the lakes on the American side is much longer, and excluding Green Bay and the northwest coast of Lake Michigan, is for Lake Ontario 200 miles; Erie, 350 ; Hu- ron, 440; Micliigan, 850 ; or a total of 1,940 miles. " A very large proportion of the extensive commerce above set forth is conducted by sail and steam vessels, at but a few miles' distance from the American coasts of these lakes, and over a surface not exceeding an area of 7,000 square miles ; more than 1 ,400 miles of this coast constitutes to the numerous vessels by which this commerce is carried on, a. Zee shore, to the fear of which vessels navigating those lakes are constantly ex- posed, " No reference has been made to the commerce and navigation countries leaves no room for hope on the part of the OUgardal Mother of i'olonie , that Canada will remain long in servile subordination to a distant monarchy.— Ed. \9i] CoMMFRCF. (F THE LAKES. of Lake Super'or from tlic! want cf satisfactory data. In 1855, hDwever, the expons of iron and copper alone from Lake Supe- rior ports amounted to $2,700,000. "The national importance of the lake commerce and navi- gation is clearly set forth — first with reference to the population of the seven States bordering on these lakes, and consequently interested in their navigation and commerce. Secondly, the position of those States relatively to the great valle}^ of the Mississippi lUver; and the extent and cost of their railroads and lands, designed to open and facilitate commercial inter- course between the Atlantic Ocean, the lakes, and navigable v^aters and tributaries of the Mississippi River. Thirdly, the position of these seven lake States relatively to the British pos- sessions and the valley of the St. Lawrence River. Fourthly, the importance of the commerce and navigation of the lakes as a nursery of seamen from which the navy of the United States may be supplied with the first class of seamen in the time of war, in which the tonnage of the lakes is comparcl with the tonnage engaged in the whale, cod, and mackerel fisheries. "The white population of the United States, according to the census of 1850, was 19,553,038. There are seven States bounded in part with great lakes, with a population as follows : New York 3,048,325 Pennsylvania 2,258,100 Ohio 1,955,050 Michigan 395,071 Indiana 977,154 Illinois 846,034 Wisconsin 804,750 White population of the 7 lake States. . 9,784,550 " " " 24 other States. 9,708.488 Balance in favor of the lake States. . . 16,002 " Showing that the white population of the seven lake States is greater by 10,062* than the total white population of the re- maining twenty-four States ; and the difference has probably been still more increased since 1850. " The total value of foreign imports for 1855 in this region is ^'-'274,403,935. If the seamen engaged in the lake navigation or in the fisheries are proportionate in number to the tonnage engaged in each, then those engaged in the navigation of the lakes must very considerably exceed those engaged in the whale, cod, and mackerel fisheries. * The population of Minnesota (say 100,000) should be added to the above excess of white population. COMMERCE OF THE LAK5.S. 197 *' The amount of losses sustained by vessels and cargoes for want of suitable river and harbor improvements— nuxuber and kind of vessels sustaining losses on the lakes by " shipwreck, stranding, and collision," from 1848 to 1855 inclusive, with the amount of damage sustained : STEAMBOATS Shipwreck. Stranding. Collision. No. Loss. No. Loss. No. Loss. 1848.... .... 3 $25,000 25,000 9 6 $47,000 21,000 3 c; 1840.... .... 1 1.400 1850.... .... 5 98,000 8 13,400 8 28,800 1851 .... ....2 27,000 5 36.700 9 6,000 1852.... .... 3 125,000 5 14,700 16 158,350 1853.... .... 3 126,000 7 61,000 11 31,650 1854.... .... 4 110,000 2 110,000 8 31,2U0 1855.... .... 4 378,000 11 11,350 12 36,600 25 914,000 52 305,150 67 286,000 PROPRLI.ERS. 1848.... .... $ 1 $12,000 1 $400 1849.... .... 1 5,000 1850.... .... 4 2,500 3 2,400 1851 .... .... 2 55,000 6 32.800 10 40,400 1852.... .... 4 85,000 5 6.900 9 73,000 1853.... .... 1 42.000 7 28,000 4 39.000 1854.... .... 5 370,000 8 00,500 1855.... .... 7 351,000 11 9,950 19 557,750 19 903,000 35 99,050 54 607,800 SATL VESSELS. 1848 23 $128,500 65 873,020 3 836,000 1849 10 56,900 30 42,900 10 17,000 1850 20 89,600 64 82,150 11 44.600 1851 34 132,700 86 83,950 22 50,700 1852 30 183,100 62 96,000 35 28,500 1853 27 175,400 62 84,000 15 23,700 1854 52 407,626 16 90,650 1855 40 418,300 109 184,650 52 121,800 Sail 236 1,591,626 479 646,770 164 414,250 Propellers... 19 903,000 35 99,050 54 667,800 Steamboats.. 25 914,500 52 305,150 67 2^6,000 Total . . .380 3,409,126 566 1,051,170 285 1,368,050 17* 198 COMMERCE OF THE LAKES. TOTAL. LOSS IN EIGHT YEARS. Nurabei Damages. By Shipwreck 380 $8.409;]2G By Stranding 5G6 1,051 ,1 70 By Collision 285 1 ,368,050 Total 1,281 5,828,346 " Whole number of disasters to vessels and cargoes, or either of them, during these eight years, 2,117, of which 1,231 con- sist of shipwreck, stranding, and collision, a little over 4-G of the whole, while the damage from these causes during the same period was nearly 5-7 of the whole, and amounted to $5,828.346 ; the total damage from disasters of all kinds being $8,852,649. " The amount of damages to the commerce of the lakes dur- ing 1854, from the difficulty of crossing the St. Clair Flats with loaded vessels, was as follows : VESSELS ENGAGED IN 1854 IN" TRADE TO THE UPPER LAKES. Steamboats 8 Tonnage, 6,880 Propellers 44 " 21,796 Sail Vessels (Barques) 32 " 12,234 Brigs 84 " 24.757 Schooners 198 " 48,323 Total Tons 110,990 SAIL VESSELS. Paid towing and lighterage on Flats $163,686 56 Time detained— days, 5,566 220,640 00 Damages by collision, paid for repairs 62,800 00 $452,146 56 Steam vessels paid for like damages 208,000 00 Total damage on St. Clair Flats (for the season) . . $660,146 56 " We call especial attention to the last item. " The amount of duties collected in the fifteen collection dis- tricts of the Great Lakes from 1837 to 1855 was $5,511,129 90, and the whole amount of appropriations that have been made to these lakes from the beginning of the government till now is $2,884,125, showing that "the United States have received from the lake revenue $2,267,004 98 more than it has given back to it in any shape. This balance will cover the amount expended on the light-houses on the lakes, with repairs, attendance of keepers, and the cost of the ship canal around the St. JNIary'a Falls, and still leave $1,000,000 for the U. States Treasury." POPULATION, COMMERCE, ETC. 199 WESTWARD M0VE5»IENT OF THE CENTER OF POPULATION, COMMERCE, AND OF INDUSTRIAL POWER IN NORTH AMERICA. Extract from Hunt's MerchanVs Magazine. •' In the rapidly developing greatness of North America, it is interesting to look to the future, and speculate on the most probable points of central- ization of its oommercial and social power. _ ^ . ■. " Including with our nation, as formmg an important part of its com- mercial community, the Canadas, and contiguous Provinces, the center of population, white and black, is a little west of Pittsburgh, situated at the head of navigation on the Ohio River. The movement of this center is north of west, about in the direction of Chicago. The center of pro- ductive power can not be ascertained with any degree of precision We know it must be a considerable distance east, and north of the center of population. That center, too, is on its grand march westward. Both in flieir re"-ular progress, will reach Lake Michigan. The center of indus- trial power will touch Lake Erie, and possibly, but not probably, the cen- ter of population now move so far northward as to reach Lake Erie alst>. Their tendency will be to come together ; but a considerable time will be required to bring them into near proximity. Will the movenient of these centers be arrested before they reach Lake Michigan? I think no one expects it to stop eastward of that lake ; few will claim that it will go far beyond it. Is it not, then, as certain as any thing in the future can be, that the central power of the continent will move to, and become perma- nent on the border of the Great Lakes ? Around these pure waters will gather the densest population, and on their borders wiU grow up the best towns and cities. As the centers of population and wealth approach, and pass Cleveland, that city should swell to large size. Toledo will be still nearer the lines of their movement, and should be more favorably affected bvthem, as the aggregate power of the continent wiU, by that time, be ereatlv increased. As these lines move westward toward Chicago, the luauence of their position will be divided between that city and Toledo, distributing benefits according to the degree of proximity. " If we had no foreign commerce, and all other circumstances were equal tlie greatest cities would grow up along the line of the central in- dustrial power, in its western progress, each new city becoming greater than its predecessor, by the amount of power accumulated on the conti- nent for concentration from point to point of its progress. But as there are points from one resting-place to another possessing greatly superior advantao-es for commerce over all others, and near enough the center line of industrial power to appropriate the commerce which it olTers, to these points we must look for our future great cities. To become chief of the^e, there must be united in them the best facilities for transport, by water and by land. It is too plain to need proof, that these positions are occupied by Cleveland, Toledo, and Chicago. * pxt ♦!, a „ " But we have a foreign commerce beyond the continent of North Amer- ica by means of the Atlantic Ocean, bearing the proportion, we will allow, of one to twenty of the domestic commerce within the continent. Thia proportion will seem small to persons who have not directed particular attention to the subject It is, nevertheless, within the truth. The proof of this is difficult, only because we can not get the figures that represent the numberless exchanges of equivalents among each other, in such a community as ours ^ ^ ^ * * * * * " It can scarcely admit of a doubt, that the domestic commerce of North America bears a proportion as large as twenty to one of its foreign com- merce. Has internal, commerce a tendency to concentrate in few points, POPULATION, COMMERCE, ETC. ice foreign commerce Is its tendency to concentration ess fiian that of foreign commerce? No difference in this respect can be perceived. All commerce develops that law of its nature to the extent of its means. For- eign commerce concentrates chiefly at those ports where it meets the greatest internal commerce. The domestic commerce being the great body, draws to it the smaller body of foreign commerce. New York, by lif r canals, her railroads, and her superior position for coastwise naviga- tion, has drawn to herself most of our foreign commerce, because she has become the most convenient point for the concentration of our domestic trade. It is absurd to suppose she can always, or even for half a century, remain the best point for the concentration of domestic trade ; and as the foreign commerce will every year bear a less and less proportion to the domestic commerce, it can hardly be doubted that before the end of one century from this time the great center of commerce of all kinds for North America will be on a hike harhor. Supposing the center of population (now west of Pittsburgh) shall average a yearly movement westward, for the next fifty years, of twenty miles, this would carry it one thousand miles northwestward from Pittsburgh, and some five hundred or more miles beyond the central point of the natural resources of the country. It would pass Cleveland in hve years, and Toledo in eleven years, reaching Chicago, or some point south of it, in less than twenty-five years. The geographical center of industrial power is probably now in northeastern Pennsylvania, having but recently left the city of New Tork, where it partially now for a time remains. This center will move at a somewhat slower rate than the center of population. Supposing its movement to be fifteen miles a year, it will reach Cleveland in twenty years, Toledo in twenty-seven years, and Chicago in forty-five years. ********** "At the present rate of increase, the United States and the Canadas, fifty years from this time, will contain over one hundred and twenty mil- lions of people. If we suppose it to be one hundred and five millions, and that these shall be distributed so that the Pacific States shall have ten mil- lions, and the Atlantic border twenty-five millions, there will be left for the great interior plain seventy millions. These seventy millions will have twenty times as much commercial intercourse with each other as with all the world besides. It is obvious, then, that there must be built up in their midst the great city of the continent ; and not only so, but that they will sustain several cities greater than those which can be sustained on the ocean border." ADVERTISEMENTS. MICIIIGAJf CENTRAL RAILROAD CO. NORTH SHORE LINE STEAMBOATS. DETROIT AND BUFFALO. The new and magnificent Steamers PLYMOUTH EOCK, WESTERN WORLD, and MISSISSIPPI wiU form this line the ensuing season, and commence running immediately upon the opening of navigation, as fol- lows : PLYMOUTH ROCK P. J- KALPH, Commanrler, Will leave Detroit— Mondays and Thursdaj's. " " Buffalo— Tuesdays and Fridays. WESTERN WORLD J. S. EICHARDS, Commander, Will leave Detroit— Wednesdays and Saturdays. " " Buffalo— Mondays and Thursdays. MISSISSIPPI S. G. LANG LEY, Commander, Will leave Detroit — Tuesdays and Fridays. " " Buffalo — Wednesdays and Saturdays. These steamers are all new, of the largest class, being about 2,000 tons each. The commanders and otfloers are gentlemen of great experience and capability. They are fitted up and furnished for the convenience of pas- sengers in a style of comfort and luxury entirely unequaled, and are in all respects considered the safest and most desirable steamers that sail upon the Western waters. For the transportation of Freight, the line will surpass any thing ever before offered to the public, having arrangements with parties between Boston and New York, and all points west of Buffalo to St. Louis, which will enable them to forward goods and merchandise with greater dispatch tlian has ever yet been attained. For the transportation of live stock, these steamers offer facilities to drovers which can not be surpassed or equaled. pW" Shippers of merchandise from the Edi^t should mark packages to the care of C. L. Seymouh, Buffalo; merchandise from the IFt*.^ should be marked to the care of John Hosmek, Freight Agent, Detroit. C. B. SWAIN, Agent, DETROIT, MICH. ADVERTISEMKNTS. MICHIGAN SOUTHERN BUFFALO TO CHICAGO. Tolfdo, MJIwankee, Kaciiie, Rrnosha, ATaiikegao Galena, Rock Island, BurUn^r«ii, Dnbnqae, Madison, Iowa City, St. Louis, St. Paul, aud all Plaecs in the West and Sonth West. The following New Low Tressure STEAilEES form the Line from BUFFALO XO XOLEDO, CONNECTING THERE WITH THE MICHIGAX SifUTHERX AND NORTHERN I>DIA>A RA LROAD. ONLY 242 MILES TO CHICAGO. WESTERN METROPOLIS I. T. Pheatt, Com'r. Leaves Bulfalo Mondays and Thursdays. CITYOFBUEFALO A. D. Peekins, " Leaves Buffalo Tuesdavs aud Fridays. SOUTHERN MICHIGAN ' L. B. Goldsmith, " Leaves Buffalo "Wednesdays and Saturdays. Learing Michigan Southern Railroad Dock, foot of Main Street, Buffalo, every evening (Sundays excepted), at 9 o'clock, or immediately after the arrival of the Express Train from Boston, Albany, and New York, through to Toledo without landing, where passengers take the Lightning Express Train for Chicago, etc. i^?" Passengers, by delivering their Checks to the Agent ou the Cars, can have their Baggage Conveysd to the Boat free of CJiarge, and Checked Through. At Toledo this Line of Steamers connects with the TOLEDO, WABASH, AND WESTERN RAILROAD. Passengers who desire to go all the way by Railroad, can take the LAKE SHORE RAILROAD, at Buffalo, for Toledo, or GREAT WEST- ERN RAILWAY, at Suspension Brid<;e, for Detroit, where direct con- nections are made with the MICHIGAN SOUTHERN AND NORTH- ERN INDIANA RAILROAD. - THROUGH TICKETS can be purchased at aU Railroad and Steamboat Oflices East ; of the Agents of the Company, John F. Poktbr, 193 Broad- way, New York ; B. F. Fifielp, Detroit; Geo. M. Geat, Chicago ; II. B, KiTCUiE, foot of Main Street, Buffalo. SAM BROWN, General Superintendent, Toledo 0. EZRA DOWNER, Traveling Agent. ADVERTISEMENTS. CLEVELAND, DETROIT, AND LAKE SUPERIOR LINE. On the Opening of Navigation three first-class Propellers, carrying Freight and Passengers, will constitute the above line, running regularly from Cleveland and Detroit to Superior City, stopping at all intermediate points on Lake Superior The line will be composed of the IRON CITY Capt. J. E. Turner. MANHATTAN « C. Ripley. (New Boat) " John Spalding. The " Iron City" is a new boat, built last season, and is one of the fastest boats on the Lake. The " Manhattan" has undergone a thorough repair, and is a sound, staunch boat in every pai'ticular. The new boat, now being built expressly for the trade, with all the modem improvements for Freight and Passengers. These boats are fitted up expressly for Freight and Passengers. Every attention will be given to the comfort of Passengers, and the prompt delivery of Freight consigned to their care. J^l* For Freight or Passage, apply to HANNA. GARRETSON & CO., Cleveland. J. G. HUSSEY, Cleveland. G. 0. AVILLIAMS & CO., Detroit. WM. P. SPAULDING, Saut Ste Marie. J. P. PENDELL, Marquette. P. M. EVERETT, WM. P. RALEY, Copper Harbor. S. LEOPOLD & CO.. Eagle Harbor. PITTSBURGH & BOSTON MINING CO., Eagle Riw. CARSON & CLOSE, Ontonagon. E. M. LIVERMORE, J. AUSTRIAN, La Pointe. C. C. CHILD, Bayfield. H. BOBBINS, Superior ADVERTISEMENTS. rxALENA, DUNLEim AND MINNESOTA PACKET COMPANY. ORMN SMITH, President, Galena, 111. J. P. FAPvLEY, Vice President, Dubuque. GEO. C. BLISH, Secretary, Galena. MORNING AND EVENING LINE TO ST. PAUL, AND A DAILY LINE FafiOill GAILEIVA TO ROCK ISI^ArVD. The Boats of this Company will make reijular trips between GALENA, DUBUQUE, DUNLEITH, AND ST. PAUL, connectini? at Dunleith with the trains of the ILLINOIS CENTKAL EAILROAD from the East and South, going np and returning— stopping at all intermediate points, and remainipg sufficiently long for passengers to VISIT THE FALLS OF ST. ANTHONY. The following Boats comprise the line between Galena, Dubuque, Dun- leith, and St. Paul : NOETHERN LIGHT Capt. Preston Lodwick. GREY EAGLE " D. S. Harris. NORTHERN BELLE " J. Y. IIurd. KEY CITY " J. WoRUEX. WAR EAGLE " A. T. Kixgman. GALENA " W. H. LATTunxox. CITY BELLE " Kennedy Lodwick. GOLDEN ERA " Joax Scott. GRANITE STATE " W. H. Gabbert. GOLDEN STATE " S. E. Harlow. ALHAMERA " E. McGuiee. All first-cl.ass Steamers, commanded by the most skillful and gentle- manly officers, and are fitted up with a view to the safety and comfort of Passengers. i;W° Being UNITED STATES ]\IAIL BOATS, their punctuality can be relied upon. THIS COMPANY WILL ALSO RUN THE FANNY HARRIS Capt. E. Andrews. KxVTE CASSELL " Between Galena and Eock Island, making a Daily Line, connecting at Rock Island with the CHICAGO AND ROCK ISLAND RAILROAD, and the ST. LOUIS. KEOKUK, AND ROCK ISLAND LINE OF FIRST- CLASS STEAMERS, and at Fulton City with the trains of the CHICAGO, PULTON, AND IOWA RAILROAD, and at Galena with the boata of the GALENA, DUBUQUE, DUNLEITH, AND ST. PAUL LINE. J. F. HILLS, Freight Agent, Dunleith, 111. 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