LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ^^^^^'si^^' :« ffli Ca (ilass Book f\iju/^ yi J @ WINDOW GARDENING. DEVOTED SPECIALLY TO THE CULTURE OF FLOWERS ORNAMENTAL PLANTS, In Door^ Use and -pARLOP^ Decoi^tion. 3C, 3-L^ EDITED BY HENRY T. WILLIAMS. FOURTEENTH EDITIONT. NEW YORK: OFFICK OP THK HORTICDLTURIST 1878. '^"'^■' *t!l£f^ A tillered ace or ling to Act 31 Congress, in the year one thonsand eiptht liundred and seventy ob^ Ry IIENUY T. WILLIAMS, in tne olTlcc of tlie Librarian of Congress, at W-sl ngton, 1>. C. Pat. omc« Ub. AprUiei^- PREFACE The taste for Window Gardening and the plant decoration of apartments is becoming universal : scarcely a cottage or villa but has its attempts, whether simple or elaborate, to decorate the windows, the porch, or the balcony with some few flower-pots or climbing vines; it is a sign of healthy sentiment, for the presence of flowers always aids in the development of re- finement and an elevated taste. This volume has been written specially as a help and an encouragement to ladies and all flower- lovers, to assist them with judicious hints and sugges- tions in their efforts to make home more beautiful by the use of plants around their windows or balconies. With the exception of a very few pages, properly credited to English writers (Mr. Robinson and Shirley Hibberd, upon subjects as yet unfamiliar to American readers), the literary matter of this volume is entirely original, being contributed by the Editor, and assisted by several American writers, enthusiastic flower lovers, who have cheerfully written articles on special topics. The aim has been to produce a volume suited to American uses, which would be simple, reliable, adapted to the needs of amateurs and beginners in home plant culture, yet abundant in suggestions of the many ways to render home attractive. Previous editions of this volume have been called for rapidly, and received with marked pleasure, and it is hoped that, in this new edition, where the errors of former editions have been corrected, the reader will still continue to show favor toward a work issued rather for the public good than the per- sonal emolument of the author. Should the interested reader feel pleased with this little testimonial to one of the most beautiful of all departments of flower culture, and the desire of the author to foster the fancy for window ornament, he wilt not regret his effort to add some definite encouragement to the more extensive development of rural taste. The Editor. Pin. l.-Ueciirative Bird Thro and Kiowor ai»mL WINDOW GARDENING. CHAPTER I. Its Pleasures — Increase in Popular Taste — Refining Influences. No home of taste is now considered complete without its Window Garden. Indeed it may be said that Window Gardening is one of the most elegant, satis- factory, yet least expensive of all departments of Rural Taste. As a useful means for developing a taste for plant-life and a love for flowers, I count nothing so effective as this simple style of gardening ; for who has not noticed that where flowers reign, grace of mind and manner soon follow. One of the advantages of Window Gardening is its simplicity, open to every one and impossible to none. Thousands of persons confined to their homes for the greater part of their life have no greater rural estate than that which the Window Garden affords. To watch the unfolding leaves and buddingflowers, the development of branch after branch, is a study of the reality of plant-life, exquisitely interesting to the soul who find* in it its only world of pleasure and sentiment. It is a form of gardening too, oi permanent use and value. The Window Gar- den is independent to a large degree of the varying seasons, for it can be made attractive every month in the year. The advent of Spring, Summer and Autumn, only render the plants of the Window Garden more luxuriant and make the flow- ers more brilliant, but they do not die with the first frost or cold wind in winter When the prospect without is dreary, we can still look to our fern-cases or window-boxes or hanging-baskets and behold in them objects of increased admi- ration, because they are so charming in their contrast with the desolateness with out, and are genial remembrances of greener days gone by. The universal popularity of Window Gardens, whether large or small, simple or elaborate, is the evidence of a growing taste for flowers and ornamental plants in all circles of society. We have only to notice in all our large cities, towns and villages, how frequent window decorations have become, sometimes seeming as if not a single house was without them in many of our most fashionable avenues. Ip European cities the citizens indulge even more extensively and passionately in their plant pleasures than we do; every home is decorated from the wo'kingman's window, and its few flower-pots of balsams, to the fernery and tile jard'dieres of the aristocratic mansion (5 ir/.v/K>ir GAUD EM so In Brussels, says M Victor Paquet, " the balconies are turned into grecnliouses and miniature stoves, gay with the brightest and greenest foliage. And in Paris ciiere are tnany contrivances in use by means of which the rarest and most oeautiful plants are produced. Passifloras cling to columns in the upper lloors; water plants start into blossom in tiny basins curiously contrived in solid brick- work, and limpid water flows down a miniature rockery from whose crevices start up ferns and lycopodiums." The rooms of the Parisian are gay with flowers replaced freshly every day, and in the denser parts of London, black with its smoky atmosphere, may be found some of the choicest of plant-cases. An English writer visiting such a locality once was ushered into a room where the darkness was almost felt, but every window was occupied with a plant-case in which plants were growing in an astonishing manner. Fenis of the greenest and freshest hue, orchids never surpassed, were there in redolent health and vigor. He was told to his great surprise that the oases were hermetically sealed, and that no water had been ad- ministered for months There is a never-faiiing charm, too, in the outside decorations of the house or "Window (jiaiden. The trellis-work of the balcony may be made ornamental with green foliage and its homeliness tastefully hidden The ivy will cover the un- painted wall and make it still more artistic. The verandah can be soon covered with the most luxuriant of profuse blooming creepers. Unsightly objects, bare gardens, and plain fences can all be relieved. In fact no home is devoid of the means of tasteful decoration. And so many and easy are the forms of window embellishments at the present day, that we know of no better device for increas- ing the elegancies and attractions of indoor life. Window Gardens, too, are educators of taste. In our large cities it is noticeable that the fair occupants of the wealthier homes are themselves practically inter- ested in window ornament. It is quite the fashion for their own hands to fill with pretty plants, of their own arrangement, jardinieres of costly liie, or else I)lace them in baskets of rustic yet most artistic make After a little time wher they have grown to ai)propriate height, or the drooping plants have attained sufli- cient length, the full beauty of the Window Garden is apparent. Visitors are entranced with their wondrous beauty and are fi-ee with their exclamations of delight. The passer-by on the sidewalk stops for a moment to look lovingly upon the cozy bower of bloom just inside the glazed window pane. "When pass- ing away, he still keeps it in mind, and long afterwards cherishes the memory of this artistic beauty spot. Flowers and plants, by their beauty and fragrance, are always in harmony with rich and costly furniture, pictures or statuary. A simple flower stand near the window, a hanging basket over head, all shedding their perfume, add day by day brightness to the other genialities of the home; and all through the wintry months, furnish food for pleasant thoughts ; a single plant of the Ivy trained on the wall, or festooned over the window, is k joy to all beholders WINDOW GARDENINO. 7 Flowers, plants too, often supply the place of children in bereaved homes; for their soul-refreshing, heart-inspiring, and eye-brightening influences, are joys to wean the thoughts from pain or sorrow. Some mother perhaps cherishes fondlv in her home a few beautiful Fuchsias placed on a stand upon the window sill She never tires of looking upon their graceful shapes, or the brightly colored jewel blossoms drooping downwards, for they remind her of the delight they once gave her little child before it went to its angel home The value to her of these treasures, with their brilliant colors a>id snowy waxen petals, rose-colored or purple corollas, cannot be measured with the ordmary expression of language Among the most gratifying signs of florai taste, is the evidence of their intro- duction into school rooms. The teacher is perhaps fond of them and knows their influence. Their very delicacy, forbidding rougn handling, serves to impose a wholesome restraint upon the children ; if ever they are tired with their study, a few glances at the windowsill, and its pots of bloom, wreathe their faces with genial smiles, and they go to work again with willing hearts and refreshed tlioughts. The curiosity of children, too, is proverbial, and many a girl learns more of nature from the living specimens before her, than from the dry details of her book of botany Not less important can we consider flowers and plants, as the best and most practical educators of healthy sentiment. They are always suggestive of purity and refinement. Nothing is so conducive to cheerfulness, or creates eflbrts to make home attractive, like their presence in the household. Constant associa- tions with such objects of floral beauty, fits people to rank high as useful mem- bers of society. A floral writer has already expressed these sentiments in a most charming manner . " They are a spring of sunshine, a constant pleasure. We would have flowera in every home, for their sunny light, for their cheerful teachings, for their insen- sibly ennobling influence." As an amusement for the invalid, Window Gardening through the form of plant cases, is very appropriate. We call to mind an instance of one compelled in consequence of a bodily infirmity, to take up a residence in the city. He had enjoyed for a long time in the country the pleasures of the green-house, and endeavored whilst in the city to replace it once more. A small but inexpen- sive three light green-house was erected in the back yard, open, airy. There lie gratified his taste for floricultural subjects by gathering together an interesting collection of valuable ferns and orchids. In an upper room was arranged a capa- cious fern case, and there the invalid would spend many days during the win- ter recumbent upon the sofa dilating upon the pleasures of being able to watch the growth of a vigorous intertwining mass of curious forms of foreign ferns, many of them productions from distant portions of the globe. New Zealand, India, Mexico, Japan In our country homes, how common to see the plant stand before the window with its dozen or so oots of Geraniums, Primroses, Azaleas, &c., while an inva 3 ir/.Y/;Oll' GAliDEMXG. lid sister or mother reclines in the easy chair, watching it for hours with delight, unmindful of the snow driving past the window pane. The refilling influence of the flowers is no where more apparent than in our h xmble cottage homes ; for there it is the young maiden cherishes her few pet flowers, with a deeper affection and truer love than even the skilled gardener. Tnere is something so attractive in their very looks that none can resist their sweet and winning influence. Perhaps it may be because so few are disappointed in them, or expect them to yield a measured commercial profit. So no one's enthusiasm is gauged by dollars and cents. In some of the strangest of conditions, there is often the most delightful dis play of floral bloom ; the prairie log cabin may often contain a flourishing win dow garden, with as choice specimens as that of the rich amateur. Few are so poor but they can find room for a few boxes and pots to grow plants and beguile the long winter hours. They should be in the window of every sit- ting room, in every school-house, that children, as well as parents, may be educa- ted to the appreciation of their beauties, and their taste more readily cultivated and encouraged. The effects of window gardening become more clearly seen each succeeding year. Many who have not the slightest idea of how a plant grows will obtain from the florist a simple basket of Ivy. Once living, it needs httle further atten- tion ; yet the eye of the proprietor often wanders upward to it, and as the tendrils reach out, twining around the basket, upward or downward, his senses are gradually interested, and in time other plants follow, who in turn are studied. These tempt others, mere visitors, to try the same experiment, and so the con- tagious enthusiasm for flowers steadily spreads. In every state the love for flowers and plants is on the increase. The business of our florists is three times larger than five years ago. Our cottagers are devoting more time to the ornamen- tation of door yards with these floral gems, and the window sill of many a cot has its sugar bowl or cracked tea pot, doing duty for a flower pot, while we have often seen the discarded fruit can, in some wayside ranchman's cabin in the inte- rior of the Rocky Mountains, blooming with balsams or portulacca. All classes respond to but one sentiment, " Flowers, Give us Flowers." Beside the delights of window gardening in opening new res Hirces of amu.se- ment, recreation and instruction, which nothing else can give to the home circle, is the added advantage that it is easy; but very little time is required for their culture. Some window gardens are elaborate, expensive, and are suited only for those of scientific taste, but by far the most successful are those in our every lay homes, with the simplest of flowering plants. There are many more easy plans for house gardening than difficult ones. The little physical exercise needed, is a relief to mental pursuits, and a variety to domestic duties, while the daily growth of each plant and flower, which constitutes the chief delight of the young flo- rist, and the beauty and elegance of his little garden, form a crowning gratifica- tion for his well spent hours, and stimulate an honest and desirable pride. In some uf tne poorest quarters of London there may be found at any time hand- WINDOW GAEDEMNG Q somer Balsams than any professional ever raised, while some of the finest new Chrysanthemums ever produced it is said have originated in the window garden of some of these humble citizens. A quaint old English writer calls this form of home pleasure, " Fenestral Gar. dening" (^Hortus Fenesfi'alis) expressive of the decoration of rooms with green drapery from the garden. Many are deterred from the commencement of a window garden, or the care for cases of plants, on account of the supposed trouble. There are really but few requisites to success. If any are ignorant of the plants or their proper arrangement, read these pages and learn how many simple forms may be adopted to make every house garden alive with plant beauty, and yet require only a half hour per day. A hanging basket or two, a window box or row of bulb glasses, a wardian case or fernery, al'l are easy. Once set, they need little care. In the other departments of propagation and culture, a little time, patience, and, best of all, trials of experience, will soon render the knowledge easily acquired. To have some few choice, fragrant, beautiful flowers in mid winter when there is no green thing in sight, save the dense evergreen of the forest, or the garden hedge of spruce, prompts many to an assiduous care, and a hearty devotion to such plant treasures. Yet the recompense is worth the labor. The matchless beauty which nature once bestowed on the gardens without, is now restored and perpetuated within ; and to many a fair finger deftly handling the tender plant, the exquisite embroidery of the leaf, or coloring of tho flower, will form objects for the eye to rest upon with unwearied delight. niXno W (lA RDENINO. Fig J.- Deilgu for Window Uiu^deD CH^I^TEH II. Construction, Location and Designs for Window Gardens. The Window Gardener has choice of a great number of designs for the gratifica- tion of his taste. The Window Box of Evergreens, Ferns, or Ornamental Plants; the Jardiniere, the Hanging Basket, the row of Bulbglasses, the Plant Cabinet, the Fernery, Wardian Case or Conservatory, may all be his : while Flower Stands, Etagere and Mantel Piece Gardens, and other floral elegancies, are of great variety and tasteful constructien. Nothing, however, has so decided an effect as broad leaved plants in the window sill. Our engraving opposite (Fig. 2) is a sketch of a library window, about 3 feet wide, and 6 high, with book shelves on either side, and a closet below for pam- phlets. The window sill is made of extra width, say 14 inches. Here is placed a simple tray of about 3 inches in depth, made to fit the sill exactly : the in- terior is coated entirely with tin and rendered proof against leakage. The tray is filled with fresh mould from the woods, and then the plants are put in. At each end is an English Ivy, and the spaces between are filled with native hardy ferns, which usually are found out doors near our woods, remaining greeu down to the coldest winds and frosts of Autumn. If the front of the box is too plain it may be decorated with a few acorns, and strips of chestnut. About midway up the window is thrown across a miniature rustic bridge, upon which is still another but narrower tray, with lighter and more delicate ferns, such as the maiden's hair. This rustic bridge may be decorated with a lat- tice of the bright red dogwood, mingled with the white shoots of the linden. On the top of the window, as a cornice, some rustic branch from one of our wild forest trees, may be selected, twisted and crooked ; yet affording numerous brack- ets for climbing plants to rest upon. Upon this moss-covered bark the Ivy of the lower box is expected soon to grow up to and crawl over, throwing its ten- drils right and left, and filling it full with green foliage. A little hanging bas- ket from the rustic archway, fills out the uniqueness of the picture, and tho landscape view beyond is in a measure enhanced by the agreeableness of the standpoint from which we view it. In some of the finer parts of London, where Window Gardens are dressed in highest elegance, there is a very popular form of Window Garden, consisting of a glass case, projecting beyond the window sashes, somewhat like a little glass bow-window. (Fig 3, 4.) These are made in every style, with rustic work in front, or of an architectural character to harmonize with the style of the building. 12 II7.V/>Oll' GAIiDEMSa The sills, too, are made broad, and thus afF)rd peculiar conveniences for their safa position. Wealthy citizens who return from the country at close of ihe summer find these p;lass gardens ready filled, and charniini^ly arrayed with ferns, ever- greens and flowering plants, which will last throughout the entire winter. In the spring time these give place to Roses, Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, and a variety of other plants suitable for each season. They are exceedingly simple, and besides afibrdin"- a world of gratification to the inmates of the house they are a great addition to the exterior ornaments of the building. They are not common in thifl Fig. 3. country, and it would be quite an object for some dealer in horticultural elegancies here to make a specialty of them, for as soon as known they will be greatly in de- mand. The construction is as follows • The lower window sash, is omitted entirely, and the glass case inserted in its place, is of sufficient height to reach to the upper sash. The base should be of one stout slab of slate, resting upon the lower win- dow sill, and extending outward from 1 foot to 2 feet, and the same distance in- ward. If the window is large, 2 feet each ssde of the sash will not be too large. An iron frame is then cast of just sufficient length and width to set upon the slab, WINDOW GARDENING. 13 w^hich may be fastened firmly to it. The glass sides are fitted into the frame be- forehand, which is curved at the top, and a tray inside filled with soil holds the plants. In many cases the plant case is double, (i. e.,) the lower window sash is not removed at all, but shuts down upon the slab of slate, and the plant case is divided into two parts, each rising and curving upward to the window. Such cases can be made by any manufacturer of glassware and metal casting, but should be well and tigtitly fitted ; as, also, very thick glass should be used as a protection against the weather. For the purposes of examination and cleaning or handling the plants, a glass slide or door can be provided in the side within the room. These designs will be found most suitable in our changeable climate for mild weather only, as we fear they would not afford sufficient protection against cold. To some the objection might occur that they hide the view of the street from the interior, but this, with others, might be just the desideratum wished for; yet it will bo found in time that it excludes light and air to a considerable degree. Another item must be provided for. Water must necessarily be used for the plants, and there should be a place of escape. The box for holding the soil should be from 4 to 6 inches deep, and the bottom must be covered with broken pieces of charcoal 14 WINDOW GARVENiyO or bricks about the size of walnuts, then a sprinkling of sand and other pieces of brick broken still smaller to about the size of a pea should be inixeil with peat, and with this compost the box may be filled up. Cases of this kind are usually found in London, already prepared with plants, only needing the proper dimen- sions to be soon fitted to any window. The best plants for these cases are ferns, which require but ordinary attention, and the cultivator will also obKcrve not to place them in a southern window; t FlK.8. northern or western one will be much better for they need little or no heat. As these cases cannot be heated, so no plants should be placed in there which require artificial warmth. A very pretty design has been orijiinatcd by a German gardener of a combined window case aquarium and fernery. (Fig. 5.) This occupies the window from tno sill to top of the upper sash The tank within contains slate slabs of con.sider- able height, say one-third of the whole window on the aiitside of the case, tho mner side nearest the room bemg of glass to afTord a view of the interior. This slab is necessary to avoid the effect of the sun's rays which, when passing through WINDOW GARDENING. 15 a globe or aquarium of water, concentrate upon the floor and burn the carpet Specimens of rock work are introduced at the sides or in the rear of the case ; on their top are placed some pots contaming ferns drooping over and covering the vacancies all up. If conveniences are at hand a little fountain may be introduced, and be constantly throwing up its* tiny streams of water. AH this requires great pains of preparation. The window completely shuts out the street view and is iiglited only from the top, yet is a great curiosity and with some will be worth the trouble For planting in such cases as the two just described, the best plants will be the common English Ivy, (Hedera helix,) which thrives in confined places of this description and rapidly throws up its green foliage. The Lygodium scandens and LyaodiumJa'pomcinnA •elovflycliai\)iuir ferns, and r\^c^ copper wires to be trained Fig. 6. to. Trichomanes radicans, Hymenophyllum Tunhridgense, Asplenium Jon- taniiin are moisture lovers and generally used in furnishing tanks for the aqua- rium. A suggestion worth heeding is to be remembered : do not commit the error of procuring too large fish for the aquarium; small varieties such as the gold carp are most suitable, and for ever}' two gallon capacity of the water tank, put in one carp. Of water plants the best is Vallisnena spiralis, which will grow among pebbles if left undisturbed. Conferva may be introduced and allowed to run over the rock or sides of the aquarium. A very pretty home design, hardly called a "Window Garden, yet affording room for some decoration, is that of a bee hive in the window. Such a hive was actually placed in front of one of the library windows of the late J. C. Loudon, the famous landscape gardener. This window was protected by a verandah, and the front of 16 vr/.\Y> o 1 r <: a u d kmxo . the hivo was placed on a line with its pillars, and was consequently protected from per|iendicular rain, hut as the excessive heat of summer is equally injurious as rain, lie had the hive protected from that and from the sudden influence of either heat or cold, hy a casing of bioom and heather interlw nied For exainin ing the bees at work, the back of the hi?e nixt the window had a sliding door of wood covering a square of plate glass, so that when the door was lifted tlie bees could he seen at work. The engraving (Fig. 6) also affords to an)' one an idea of decorating the outside of the window with climbing vines; the Wislaria being f ach the most permanent and rapid growing. This will be found a most inlci- esting feature to children and visitors, ami it will add much to the convenience of position if the window is low and near the ground. One i>f the prohle'ns every window gardener has to solve is, to allow his plmt.s all needful light, air and warmth, and yet protect them on the one hand from either the dry heat of the living room warmed by a furnace or stove, and on the other side from penetrating draughts of cold air This has been solved m many cases already, by the building of plant cabinets, whioh occupy not only the whole recess of the window, but are built out some- WINDOW GARDENING. 17 what into the room, and the entire interior inclosed with glass sides or doors as a partition from the room. In every case that has come to our notice, where plants have been separated alike from the dry injurious air of the living room and the outside atmosphere, there has been the highest success. It is easy to attain a good uniform temperature, and the noxious fumes of the gas from stove, grate or gas burners, are fully protected against. The design introduced here, (Fig. 7,) is a glass case constructed in front of a window and projecting into the room with a door opening into it so that it can be easily entered. It would be well to build the floor of this house of wood, and a little higher than that of the room so that if necessary it can be removed without injury to the house. The lower portions of tlie case to th'3 lieiu;ht of about two feet should be of wainscot. Inside the Fig. 3 Fi?. 9. cabinet this paneling is lined with leaden troughs communicating with each other, and having a slight slope towards another trough lower than all the rest; it should be so contrived, that any water drainingfrom the pots or boxes containing the plants, may run off into the lower trough which should have no flower pots in it. In these troughs should be placed wooden or slate boxes filled with earth in which climbing plants are placed alternately with Orange Trees, Camellias or flowering shrubs, so that they can be seen from the room. It is supposed, also, that the outside window is a bow-window or at any rate projects beyond the sides of the house. It shouhl also have a sliding window at tlie top or bottom in case ventilation is desired, but cold air must not be admitted without imperative neces- sity. This design may be on too large a scale for ordinary purposes, but it serves to illustrate the idea that plants alwa3\s thrive best when placed in rooms entirely by themselves. In such a cabinet a most glorious opportunity is afforded for decorating the sides of the interior with climbing vines, the ivy, convolvulus, or any other with shuwy colored flowers. ]8 WINDOW QARDENINa Fig. 14 is still another design actually in use in one of our central New York homes. Here is a bow window filled with two boxes supported by legs, each box ten inches deep and filled inside either with earth or separate pots, the interspaces being filled in with moss or earth. The aim is to give a chance to plants with fine contrasts of foliage ; Pelargoniums, Petunias, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, Amaranth, Coleus, Begonia, Geraniums, &c. In one end is a Maurandia climbing vine ; in the other is a Mexican Coboea, both twining and drooping over the wires which rise from the centre of the box, and curve towards the sides affording a delicate dra- pery of green. A hanging basket of moss hangs over each box, the one filled with Oxalis and Tradescantia, the other with Ice Plant. In the vase hanging just over the middle is placed a Kenilworth or Coliseum Ivy. On various brackets below are placed di.shes of Ivy, Ferns and Moneywort. A few tall plants may be introduced to advantage, say one large pot full in the centre of each box. In one pot Caladiums, iu the other Calla Lilies WINDOW GARDENING 19 Belgian Window Gardens. These are built outside the win- dow altogether. A slab runs out directly from the window sill sup- j ported by brackets, and upon this is put a miniature green-house, con- ,.,..... structed of glass roof and wooden sides like designs Nos. 8 & 9. These brackets below are generally very ornamental. Two or thiee shelves are placed mside on a row next to the window well supported and covered with pots. Care is taken not to let the case go too high to ob- struct the light from entering the room, and ventilation is secured in Fig. 8, by lifting up slightly the lower portion of the glass roof, ii The plants are watered and arranged from the rooms within, as the win- '™™ dows do not slide up and down, but open inwardly on hinges. Fig. 9 is ventilated by a door at ! the side or in front. An awning may be provided in case of unusual via- 12. heat from the sun, which will aid in keeping the atmosphere cool, and prolong the flowering considerably during the winter time. A thick covering is needed in cool days, or a vessel of hot water may be placed inside, whose vapor will warm the little room greatly. Figs. 10 & 11 represent a good continental style of a bow-window, where olants are out of the way of ordinary passing about in the room. Shelves are arranged around the entire window, and upon them are placed the pots of plants. In this case they should be of highly ornamental foliage, and free growth. A curved settee is placed just inside the row, and in front, just at the entrance of the recess, is a table for books. Fig. 12 is a design for a rustic window box, permanently fastened to the outer side of the window case, decorated with Fuchsias, Ivy, Achyranthus, and droop- ing vines. An awning with brightly colored stripo^' ^ds greatly to the beauty. Among the more wealthy residents of German oities, a plant cabinet is often found like Fig. 13. This is so made that its back is entirely open, and it can be pushed up close to the window, fitting it snugly. It is elaborately decorated, and quite costly. The door opens into the room, and the tops are ornamented with pots of Cacti and Agaves. This is much the handsomest design for a plant cabi- ]vr.\/)0\v nARTiKxiya net ever illusfratcd. The in- terior is lillcd j)riiicij)all_v wiili jilants of stately giowtli, Colcus, Caila liily, Caima, Maianta, Dracaena, Dicfl'eiibacliia, &c. There are oilier designs of still more simple nature, which may he found in succeeding pages of this hook. Window boxes are y far the simplest and most jiopular, hut are adapted mostly to the indoor culture of bnlhs We have noticed frequently the late introduction of tile boxes, I'lUiiig the entire width of the w indow, and placed just insiu in the morning, until one or two o'clock, p. M., is much the most desirable. A southern or soulh- eastern window is the best, next is an eastern exposure, then a western oue, and the noilh worst of all. At a northern one, little but Pansies and Sweet Violets will grow, though Camellias delight in a cool, moist atmosphere, and will often flourish at such a window with but little sunshine. The plants must have all the sunshine you can bestow upon them, but at niglit they should be kept in the dark ; and as all plants in summer are cooler at night than in the day time, those that are grown in windows should also be cooler. This point is perhaps not as well understood as it should be, for there are persons so fearful WINDOW GARDENING. 2L Fig. li.—A. Sitting Room Window. 22 WINDOW OARDENINO. that their plants will become chilled, that they turn all the heat of their fur- naces upon them at night, and the gas-light joined with it, increases the irrita- tion ; so that the plants are kept in an unnatural state when they ought to bo at rest, for plants need sleep and do sleep ; so the efl'ect of unreasonable light and heat is very exhausting. Drop the curtains over the jHants to exclude them from the light of the room, or pin newspapers around them during the evening. Nothing is so handy and useful in protecting them from frost as newspapers. They will frequently preserve a plant wl)en the mercury falls nearly to free ring point. Neither should plants be chilled. Avoid the extreme of rendering them too cool, but maintain a good medium temperature. Rooms whose ther mometer reaches 80 to 85° during the day, and then falls to 30 or 35° at night, will never keep plants in good health. Size of Windows. The larger the better if you want to grow many plants. Bow windows are always liked, and generally considered the best, as they afford exposure to the sun at all hours of the day, if they face the south. The larger the panes, also the better. The best style of window, not bow, is to have a good sill, say not ^ess than six inches wide on each side of the sash ; if eight or ten inches, so much the better ; this affords room for a fine sill or rustic window box, which may be changed at intervals from the inner sill to the outer one jutting beyond the edge of the sash. Boxes for this style of window should be six inches deep. Sometimes double boxes may be desired, one on each side of the window, in which case the outer box should contain low growing evergreens, and the interior one bulbs. It is usual, also, to cover the sills with paper before setting the boxes down. Still this is not necessary where there is no danger from leak- in". If the window is low, and near the ground, climbing vines may be trained upward over the window ; this is more fully described under head of balcony gardening. Our windows differ so much in size that every one must shape their prcpara- tion.s entirely according to their conveniences; but if a sill, either permanent ortemporary, can be constructed on the outside of the window, it will be found of convenient and constant use CE[A.I>TER III. General Management of Window Gardens. In-door plants naturally require more care than those grown in the open air, for nature supplies all the needs of the latter ; but the secrets of successful growth and profuse blooming in the house are enumerated in the following few essential rules of management : 1st. Give them plenty of light during the day, and darkness with a cooler temperature at night. 2d. A good supply of fresh air, when the sun shines brightest and warmest ; in mild days the upper sashes may be lowered a little, and the cool air will blow over the plants instead of directly upon them. 3d. Perfect cleanliness, which is very important, for if the plants are covered with dust, they cannot grow, and will frequently die; their leaves are their tungs ; frequent syringing will keep the leaves moist and clean. 4th. A proper amount of moisture ; a dry atmosphere is fatal. 5th. A good compost or soil, in which their roots can luxuriate and send forth vigorous branches, leaves and flowers. 6th. Get good healthy plants to start out with ; plants that have been bloom- ing all through the summer, or for several months previous will not do well ; new ones are best, or plants that were used the previous winter, and have rested during the summer, will also answer, but in general it is best to get new plants. 7th. Keep only a few plants ; too many in the window will make close crowd- ing; pots should never be set two or three deep on top of each other. 8th. A uniform temperature of 60° to 70° in the day time and 40° to 45° in the night, should be steadily mantained. 9th. Different places should be provided for different plants. A sunny win- dow with a temperature of 45° to 50,° will suit roses, geraniums, &c., best ; Bego- nias, Coleus, Cissus discolor, want a still warmer place of 60° to 70°, and yet but little or no sun light directly upon them. On the other hand, Heliotropes, and Bouvardias want all the sun possible, with a temperature in the daytime of 60° to 75°. Sunlight. Plenty of sunlight is the gardener's first requisite. If the location for this pur- pose is not right, the plants will not be healthy. If the plants are well placed in a good light, then the pots must be turned occasionally so that all sides may receive it equally. It will be well also to put flower stands or racks of pots on 24 )l7.V/^Oir (lAliDKMXG. wheels, so that the vrliolo may bo changed at onco, or wlieL-Iod awa}', if the room needs cleaning. Care must be taken to avoid rapid transition from darkness to the liglit, for sudden and violent changes are as trying to plant life as human life Too ranch warmth will destroy tender leaves nearly as soon as too much cold. Then again, plants should be placed as near the light as possible; in rooms far away from the glass window, the plants will be weak, pale and of spindling growth. If they could receive light directly from overhead, tliey would be bet- ter than from the side. The ordinary variations of day and night have their corresponding effects on plants, since it is said that they inhale under the iiiHu- ences of light, and respire in the dark. The glass of the window should also be rubbed or washed clean. The most gaily colored flowers will be produced at a south window, but a north window has its advantage, in that it may be used for plants already in bloom, and will keep them much longer in perfection. For north windows, Camelias, Cytisnses, Primulas and Alpine Auriculas, will find the cool moisture they need, and will' bloom in great beauty if properly attended to and kept from frost. Bulbs, if placed in the sunlight, will have their brilliancy of color greatly enhanced, yet if not changed occasionally in position, their flower stems will bend over and have an unsightly appearance. Temperature. The greatest success will be found to como from a uniform temperature of 4.5 or 50° at night, and 60 to 75° in the ^ay time ; 80' is too hot except for only some plants of semi-tropical character. Under no circumstances should the tempera- ture go below 35°. If your living rooms, where 3'our plants are placed must bo considerably warmer than this in the former part of the niglit, then set the plants on the floor, shade from the light until the time of retiring, and tlien return them to the window sill or flower stand. Perhaps from no other cause than this, too great heat, during the day and long continued at night, our city grown plants grow so sickl}' and lanky in appearance. Once or twice a week will be suffi- cient for turning pots around. If this little item is not attended to, you cannot grow finely formed plants, and more ihan half their beauty depends upon their shape. If a closet or small room opening out of the sitting room can be devoted to plants and yet be well lighted, they will flourish far better than in the com- mon room, for they can have a cooler atmosphere and less dust. The same object could however be accomplished in a far more tasteful manner by enclosing the window recess with another glass window or partition. The outside glass protects the plants from the cold, the inside ones from undue heat and gas, while between the two there is a happy mean in which plant culture can- not fail to be .successful. If however this is not done, and the window panes are made of double glass there will be little danger of their freezing on a cold night. It would be well to have one pane fitted with a hinge, which can be opened to air the plants. But to avoid this a heavy curtain can be placed at the window, and pulled down at night, to protect from cold air, while newspapers may be pinned around the plants to protect them from the bright light of the evening. The WINDOW GARDENTNQ 25 amateur must also study the characteristics of his plants, for one temperaturo will not answer for all. The Rose needs a cool atmosphere, yet moderatelj'- moist. The Fuschia is fond of both warmth and moisture, but needs occasional shading when the sun is too hot. The Ooleus prefers plenty of heat and moisture, and would be satisfied neyer to have the thermometer go below 70° by night or day. The Geranium seems to accommodate itself to all circumstances, being the most easily grown of all window plants, and apparently needs only plenty of light and air, and average warmth. Plants at flight. Plants need rest. Uniform darkness at night with lower temperaturo, is one of the conditions of treatment, but sometimes there may be a sudden change of leinperature in the outer air, and in conscguence thereof some one or more plants of the window garden may be frozen. Do not throw them away, but cut the branches back as far as frozen, or near to the soil, then water slightly and do not let the plant get quite as warm as before ; if it has any life it will soon show buds and branches. Plants should be treated very much like human beings; a frosted fiuger should be warmed gradually, so should a frozen plant. Some plants if frosted, like Fuschias, will sprout from the roots and make a strong growth ; others will send out strong, healthy flowering branches from the stem near the roots. A very simple plan to restore frosted plants is to transfer them at once to a dark cellar and shower tliem plentifully with water; keep them here two or three weeks and they will gradually recover their health again. Another point is often discussed, whether plants are injurious in rooms at night. We think it unwise to have too many in a room ; a few here and there are of little influence. Strong scented plants are injurious to have in the room at night. The Tuberose, Hyacinth and Jessamine, &c., are too sweet to be allowed to remain in a bedroom at night, and should not be patronized for this purpose by invalids. The sensations of the individual are often a good guide. After sleeping in a. room with plants, the morning finds the sleeper inactive, feeling as if his night's rest had been heavy, the air of the room also does not seem pure, and the perfume peculiar. All the indications are sufficient to show the air is vitiated, and fresh air is needed as much by the individual as the plant. Fresh Air. Ventilation is absolutely necessary; therefore give it. "Whenever the weather is mild open the window. Too little fresh air and too much warmth are formidable obstacles to success in house gardening. Plants that are kept shut up in warm rooms become very sensitive and are far more liable to suffer from a sudden fall in the temperature ; but if they are frequently exposed to the fresh air they an better able to bear these changes ot climate which often occur so unexpectedly. Those who live in close heated rooms can never make their flowers bloom in winter with any vigor. Some think that any atmosphere not inconvenient to men and women is good enough for the plant. It will live just as the human being lives, but it does so in sufTerance rather, for it will not grow and bloom 20 WINDOW GARDENINO. in perfect beauty. A very few handsome flowering vines are much to he prefer- red to spindling plants , pictures of misery, like their owners, overheated and crowded into close unhealthy unventilaled quarters. In our fever to provide sufB- cient warmth in our rooms against the cold, we stop up every crack in our win- dows, every crevice of our doors; then with furnaces, grates or stoves at almost fever heat we get warmth enough to bid defiance to the chilling atmosphere. Rarely are we satisfied with a temperature in the room of less than 75", and this must be constantly maintained from early morning till late at night. A draught of fre.sh air would quicken your blood and put a little more spirit into your coun- tenances; still you aim to avoid it. Yet for the sake of your plants do it at least once a d.iy. Throw open the doors and air the room thoroughly. This can be done at time for meals when it is usually vacant. The windows should not bo opened directly upon the plants. Some other window or door away from the plants may be opened. It should be done also at the middle of the day when the outer air is mildest. Cleanliness. Here close attention is again required. Plants require regular care. They cannot be watered and cared for once a week and the rest of the time left to them- Bclves, but they demand a daily amount of time to be spent upon them. Every morning when house cleaning is in order, the plants must be watered and cleaned. You will see how necessary this is, if you look at the nature of the plants, how they live. Like our skins, the leaves of plants are perforated with hundreds of minute pores through which they breathe, exhaling oxygen and inhaling carbon, and also giving out and inhaling moisture. If these pores are filled up with dust the plant cannot perform these functions and its life either ceases or stands still ; it is not possible for it to grow or bloom. The dust of our livmg rooms is very injurious to the health of every plant. Unless it is removed, you may as well give up all hope of making your window favorites succeed. Frequent washing and watering are absolutely essential. For close handling of leaves, a soft sponge is of great service, for it can be used in the parlor without danger of dripping from the watering-pot. Wash each leaf separately and see that both sides of it are clean. To shower a plant turn it sideways over a tub of water or a sink; sprinkle it thoroughly with the watenng-pot. If the plants are too large to handle in this manner set the pots or tubs into a larger one and either sprinkle or syringe every branch and leaf. You must improvise summer showersif you would induce summer growth. It is not enough to water the earth in the pot. The whole plant requires it. Frequent waterings are the most beneficial culture that you can bestow upon your plants. To be sure they are not easily given and will entail upon you some work. When sweeping and dusting your rooms, throw newspapers or a light cloth over them ; this will prevent the dust from settling upon the leaves, and help materially toward keeping them clean. Whenever a warm ram falls, and the temperature stands at 50° or 55,° set all the plants out of doors, and they will be greatly refreshed and strengthened. It does not follow, however, that the whole plant is watered by being thus placed WINDOW GARDENING. 27 out doors ; the leaves of the plant may be broad and shield the pot and roots ; so do not forget to give these a chance also. If the leaves of plants are very- dirty, warm water with a little soap and the use of the sponge or syringe, will remove all dirt. Exposui-e to the fresh air is not as dangerous as many would sup- pose, provided the temperature is mild. They are, in fact, benefited by such exposure and become far more hardy and able to resist sudden changes of tem- perature, much better than if kept constantly confined to the room. Very few have any idea of how fast the dust accumulates in a room ; it is in fact one of the greatest enemies the housewife has to contend with. A short time only, suflBces to see the leaves of a plant covered with dust ; if it is not re- moved, they soon get brown and wither; and it is really delightful, after giv- ing them a good washing, to see how bright and shining are the leaves and how greatly they have been invigorated. Watering Plants. Wlien shall I icater my plants ? is a vexed question, asked perhaps more frequently than any other by the beginner. This depends entirely upon the nature of the plant, for some need more water than others, and yet a soil thor- oughly wet is totally unfit for plant-growing. The real idea each cultivator should aim for is to supply the plants with water, which may drain rapidly through the pots, yet sufficient be retained to give a good moist soil for the plant to live in. If the water passes away rapidly it will need replacing frequently. It is generally a sign of health when the soil is well drained and the plant uses up the supply of water quickly. Watering should be supplied with a careful hand, for many parlor gardeners have an unrestrainable belief in the hydropathic process. To them there is only one orthodox rule : if the plants will wither up or are troubled with insects and do not grow as healthy and freely as they might, they drench it with a flood of cold water; so it is a fact, that more plants perish in the hands of the inex- perienced, from having too copious a supply than too little. There are others again more cautious in their applications of water, who are, on the other hand, totally heedless of drainage, and let the water stand in the saucers under the pots, or in boxes without drainage, causmg mould and sogginess of soil, rendering the roots weak and unhealthy. The purposes of watering should be better understood. 1st. Water supplies to the roots fertilizing matter, contained in itself, and 2d. It converts the nour- ishment of the soil into a liquid form more readily fit for absorption by the roots. The roots can obtain it only when the soil is dampened. Never give water when the soil is moist to the touch, but wait until it is dry. Few plants thrive if water is around them constantly ; yet Lobelias, Callas, Ivies, etc., are very thirsty and like to drink at their own will. Indeed they will not bloom or grow well unless you allow them so to do. The healthiest plants require water the most frequently; and yet it may appear a contradiction to say that the plants which contain the most waterjf 23 H7.V/>0U' f!Ai;i)F.\l\(! tissues, grow in the dryest places. The Cacti often supjily moisture to the wila cattle of the plains of Mexico ; the animals break through their thorny exteriora with their hoofs, and then eat the moist morsels contained within, which quench their thirst. Water, cold from the well or pump, is not suitable for plants, unless of a tern nerature of GO". Rain water is best, for this is supposed to contain some little iinnionia from the sky. Tlie best rule in all cases is to use water warm to the hands. Some florists vlvise water no colder than the atmosphere. We believe it generally best to use it wanner. In cool mornings it should be lukewarm, say not under o5°. Some cultivators say they have u.sed hot water for sickly plants heated to a tempera- ture from 200° to 250°, and liave believed this to be the cause of their subse- quent luxuriant growth and production of flowers of the greatest beauty ; but trials like this are not to be encouraged, and warm water of 75° to 150°, will do just as well and have far less danger from scalding. Over 150° is neither neces- sary nor safe. A lady is said to have once watered her plants with the tea that re- mained in her pot after the breakfast was finished. Iler plants grew in wonder- ful beauty and luxuriance, and she attributes it to the magic effects of the tea; yet slie has forgotten it was better due to the warmth of the water than any fan- cied virtue. Some plants demand more water than others. Fuchsias, for instance, while in bloom often require water both morning and evening, and nearly all plants desire more when in floWer than at any other time. The supply of water must be regulated acconling to the demand of the plants. Calla Lilies will ab.sorb water two or three times as quickly as any other plant of the Window Garden. If rainwater cannot be easily obtained and hard water is the only source at hand, hdd a little soda to it and let it stand for a while; use a small piece, say a small nugget of the size of a pea, to every gallon; on that pour about a pint of boiling water and then fill it up with cold water. It will be quite warm, and a thorougli drenching overhead and in the pots will vastly improve their color and health. A drop or two of hartshorn will also correct hard water somewhat. In watering, never wet merely the surface, but moisten the whole ball of earth in the pot. If the ball slionld yet be very dry set the whole pot in a pail of warm water till it is soaked through. The morning is the best time of tiie day for watering. A com- mon hand-brusli made of broomcorn dipped into warm water and .shaken over the plants will imitate a summer shower, but its tiny drops may spatter against the window glass. A toy watering-pot, such as is used for children, is very use- ful for Window Gardening. If oil cloth IS laid under the stand it can be used without much ifany injury to the car- pet or furniture. Care should be taken that the pots have good drainage, for then all surplus water will run into the rig. 15. WIA'DOtr GAEpENI^'0. 29 saucer, which may be emptied as fast as filled. In warm mild weather when plants absorb a great deal of moisture it will do no harm to leave a little in the saucer. Among other details to be observed in wateiing, the following items of caution are to be observed : Some plants .«hould never be wetted on the leaves. Take the Begonia Rex, who.se foliage, so large and grand, has an exquisite coloring; if its leaves were to be sponged with cold water, and the plant left out on tlie balcony or open air, it would probably die very soon ; but a Camelia can be treated the same way and not be injured in the slightest. The reasons for it are good. The last plant has a hard shiny leaf, which can resist rough treatment ; but the other has a succulent tender leaf easily affected. The novice then may generally find it true that plants with soft porous and hairy leaves should be very cautiously wet- ted overhead, but plants with hard varnished leaves ma}' be watered frequently. Tepid water should be invariably used even down to the height of summer. If plants get infested with vermin, a sponging with soap and water made into a lather, will clear them. Then follow with clear water to remove the soap. It is also a good rule to observe that the colder the weather the less water must be given ; and when plants are at rest, done growing, they need very little indeed Plants in cases may be watered once a week, for evaporation there is confined, but in open rooms once a day is sufficient. Some plants, who delight in very moist situations, need it twice a day. Never water when the sun is hot. If the soil of the pot gets too hard, loosen it a little with a fork, or plunge it into a tub of water. Take pains to have good drainage, and beyond this little trouble will be experienced. The Pldlosopliy of Watering is worth studying. Plants are constantly throwing off or evaporating moisture from their leaves, and at the same time the roots must be taking up an equal sup- ply. If then on examining the soil in a flower-pot, 3'ou discover that it is moist for an unusually long time, you may be sure that something is wrong, either the roots do not take it up readily, or drainage is imperfect. Healthy plant action needs, -ir as well as moisture.' A soggy soil excludes air, and, as a result, our plants soon sliow drooping leaves and unhealthy branches. Drainage is to plants what digestion is to the human system, keeping everj'thing in perfect action. Water and air enjoy a healthy circulation unimpeded, and plants which are growing freely and vigorously, with strong roots, will take up the moisture of the pots regularly. Mr. Meehan, who has studied plant physiology more thor- oughl}'' than any other American, sums up this subject in the following concise paragraph : " A wet soil is totally unfit for plant growing. A plant standing 24 hours in water is irreparably injured. A Hyacinth, to be suie, will live one season in water; but all the matter of the flower wliich goes to water is prepared the year before, and after flowering, the bulb is exhausted and almost worthless. "A good soil for plant growing, therefore, is not one which will hold water, but one in which water will pass away. 30 WIiVDOW QAIiDENINQ. " The soil itself is composed of minute particles, through which air spaces ahouiid. The vrater must be just enough to keep these particles moist, aud the air iu the spaces is thus kept in tlie condition of moist air. The roots traverse these air spaces, and it is, therefore, moist air which roots want, and not water. " If it were water simply which plants wantud, we should cork up the botioiu of the hole in the flower pot, and prevent the water getting away. Instead of this, we try to hasten the passing of the water through as much as possible, by not only keeping the hole clear, but often by putting broken pieces in tlie bottom to hasten the drainage. A plant will generally be the healthiest, therefore, wliicii wants water the oflenest. If it does not want water, it is in a bad way. And more water will make the matter worse. " IIow often to water them, will be according to how easy the water passes away. If, when you pour water on earth it disappears almost instantly, it would be safe to water such plants every day. " The constant aim of the cultivator should be to keep the soil of such a con- sistence that a moist atmosphere shall always be present in the air spaces exist- ing through it. Moisture of the Atmosphere. The atmosphere of our houses, as we have intimated before, is not only too dry for successful plant culture, but it breeds insects of various kinds whicl» will injure their growth. We have noticed that plants kept in kitchen windows where the air is charged with moist vapors from the boiling of water over the stove or range, and where the outside doors are frequently opened, and fresh air supplied, will often develop into surprising luxuriance and beauty. We can call to mind even now a farm kitchen in the coldest portion of our most northern «tates, where Roses, Carnations and Verbenas, grow finely, and are covered with a sum- mery profusion of buds and flowers. These are usually tlie most difficult plants to bring into bloom in parlor windows, because they are apt to bo so infested with minute red spiders, and the rrcen aphis, scale or mealy bug. It IS the moisture in the air wl.ich tends to restrain and drive away such dis- agreeable intruders. The heated air of the house can be kept moist by placing an evaporating pan upon or in our luiiiaces, and over our stoves we can place a large flre-proof dish that must be laily filled with water. If the surfaces of the .soil in pots is covered with moss, it retards the evapo- ration of water; this practice is generally advisable only for those plants which require much water, such as Calla Lilies, Fuchsias, Camellias, &c. Pots that are imbedded in moss are always kept moist, and if a table is constructed just the height of the window, with a rim fastened around each .side three inches in depth, and the whole lined with zinc, the pots can be set in it, and the moss stuffed in on all sides. When watering is needed, set it back from the window and sprinkle with a fine watering jjot. The Soil. The most easily available material for a compost by the ordinary gardener, will WINnOW GARDENING. 32 be rich loam, sand, and thoroughly decayed cow manure. This should be mixed in the proportion of one half of the loam to one quarter each of the sand and ma- nure. Leaf mould is also another grand material which every plant loves to grow in, and it will pay to secure a good quantity of it. The older and more ducom posed the manure and leaf mould, the better they are, aud every plant grower should keep a well prepared compost heap for his plants. A good compost, when all the material is handy, is composed of one fourth of the above elemeuts of leaf mould, sand, loam and manure. To those who live in cities and can not get this conveniently, it is best either to buy your plants already potted, or go to a good florist and buy a good quantity ofi-ight compost; he can usually supply it at cheaper rate than it can be purchased anywhere else. Keep this heap well filled, and no one must fail to bear in mind that the soil of every one of his pots needs changing and replenishing, or else it becomes ex- hausted, and the plants dwindle and languish for needed food. Garden loam is often used by those in the country and found to answer; but if it should contain any clay, a little sand must be added. The sand itself is ot no fertilizing effect, but is valuable in assisting the aeration of the soil and helping the drainage. Well rotten turf is another handy and valuable mate rial, containing considerable quantity of vegetable mould. If used, put the coarser pieces at the bottom along with some pebbles or broken pieces of crockery, then fill in the finer mould to about half an inch from the surface. The soil must" not be allowed to cake up, but be occasionally stirred up deep, so that air may have access to the roots. Leaf mould is more highly prized by gardeners than anything else that can be procured. Every autumn the leaves are gathered in heaps, wheeled by the barrow load to a good location, and there left exposed to the rain and the action of the weather for sometimes two or three years. Here it decomposes and becomes rotten. Then it is mixed with good turf mould, also left to rot for a year or two, and finally chopped up; then add the sand, decomposed manure and some peat well minced to small pieces. This is considered the very best mate- rial for pots, or borders in green-houses or conservatories. A good pile of it is always maintained. It is rather an advantage than otherwise to have a few lumps in each pot ; they prevent the soil from becoming too solid. A compost for Camellias, Roses, Geraniums, (&c., should be one part river sand, one part leaf mould, two parts turf or garden mould. For Cacti, use two parts coarse sand, three parts leaf and turf mould, one part peat, and a lit- tle broken plaster. For Azaleas, Ericas, and most New Holland plants, take four parts peat, two parts sand, one part garden or turf mould, one part leaf mould. Soil for bulbous roots should be light ; place them in the centre of the pots, about half imbedded in the light earth, then cover them with leaf or fine turf mould. For drainage purposes, put in the bottom of each pot either a layer of pow- dered charcoal, or small broken pieces of brick or old mortar tt the depth of at 32 wixDoiv OAiinKsiya. least ail iiicli ; over this there may bo a sligiit sprinkling of sand ; still it may be oniitU'il if ii h:is [novidiisly been well incorporated in the compost. In general it should never be less than one lil'ili the whole material of tlie compost, and one fourth will bo best in most cases. Forest mould scraped up under the branches of pine or other forest trees, or the .soil taken from under the soda oi'droppings in cow pastures, will be found useful in imparting a vigorous growth to plants. Amateurs sometimes choose earth from the back yards of their city residen- ces ; this is rarely ever suitable, and often its effects can be seen in the half de.id and weak look of the plants, who .'ods mature uidess you desire to raise seeds. 4. All bulbs aVid tubers should be planted before they begin to shoot; if suffered to form leaves and roots in the air, they waste their strength. 5. Never remove the leaves from bulbs after flowering until they are quite dead. As long as the leaves retain life they are employed in preparing nourishment and transmitting it to the roots. 6. Window WINDOW GARDENING 35 plants are more liable to be injured by frost than plants in the ground, because the fibres of the roots cling to the sides of the pots and are more quickly affected by the chilling air. 7. The faster a plant grows, the farther apart are the leaves, the more distant the side branches, and the more bare appears the stem. Richness of foliage can never be attained when leaves become thus scattered. By keeping a lower temperature, especially at night, there will be a slower and more desirable growth, and conducive to compactness of habit in plants. 8. No plants can bear sudden contrasts of temperature without injury, therefore bring nothing directly from a heated room to the cool open air 9. By checking the growth of leaves and branches you throw more strength into the flowers; this is why the terminal shoots of many plants should be pinched off to increase their vigor. 10. Avoid excessive heat. Plants often languish in a hot temperature while their owners cannot imagine why they do not grow, forgetting that the at- mosphere is already too warm for even human beings. Suggestions like these will show that although Window Gardens require some skill and experience in good management, yet there is nothing abstruse or difficult to prevent any one from undertaking the care of one which needs oniy a reasonable degree of thought and attei^tion to make it a constant delight. 3x*tciAL Care of Window Gaudens. In Winter. The beauties of the flower garden are gone, and we are now left to solaca ourselves with any green thing we can coax by artificial help to grow and bloom during the long winter months, till spring returns again. Naturally enough we hate to lose the sight of the flowers, and graceful flutter of the green leaves, so we strive to prolong our joy, as far as possible, under many diflBculties through unsuitable seasons. During the winter seasons the chief requisites of success, are plenty of sun- shine, an atmosphere not too dry or close, a mild uniform temperature, and especial attention to cleanliness, watering and daily care. Plants which receive only a few moments of attention a day and then forgot- ten, soon become a disgrace, and the window garden becomes a nuisance. In the open ground plants will flourish if left to themselves, but when grown in a pot, they are under artificial restraints and conditions, and must become an object of constant attention. This ver3' necessity of the case renders window gardening of so much greater interest than out door gardening. Plants at night should be in the dark, as that is their natural condition so that they may rest, and yet it is equally important that they should be freely ex- posed to the sun as long as light lasts. So, especially in the winter months, when there is comparatively so little sunlight, place them as closely to the windows as they can be well managed, if not, they will become unsightly, drawn and weak. The more light that a plant receives the more freely can it absorb carbon and breathe out o.xygen; so if you wish your plants to be purifiers of the air, be sure that they have plenty of liglit. and keep both blinds and curtains from obstructing it. The necessity for air in tJie winter is no less imperative than the demand for light. In order to cultivate Geraniums successfully, a constant supply of fresh air is very needful. Roses, Verbenas, and indeed all plants demand it. When plants are first brought into the house they should not be stimulated, but allowed a little time to become accustomed to their new quarters ; and they will often wither a little from the want of fresh air, so let the windows be open all day, if it is sunny, and accustom them b}' degrees to the change of temjierature. It is not desirable to allow them to remain out too late in the season, but they should be housed before any danger of frost arises ; a slight chill will frequently WINDOW GARDENING 37 injure them greatly, especially the Coleus, and all sub tropical plants unused to our cold autumn winds. They can be placed on a protected piazza, and covered at night with some mats or sheets, but the true lover of house plants does not feel at ease until all her pets are standing in their winter quarters ; then the cold chilly winds may blow, and Jack Frost's icy fingers pinch with blackening touches all that they can reach; the household flowers arc safe beyond his dreaded touch. Do not crowd your plant stands or windows, give to each plant room to stretch forth its branches and leaves, if you would have it bloom in vigor and beauty; untidy straggling plants are always detestable. Every dead leaf must be removed and every fading flower, and the leaf must not remain in the pots, but be taken away; cleanliness is so important that no damp leaves or decaying flowers should be left. Window plants suffer chiefly in the winter months from indiscriminate waterings, allowing them to go dry for two or three days and then soaking them for a week. Many a lady cannot imagine why her plants do not grow and bloom as luxuriantly as at her opposite neighbor's. But it is the lack of daily atttention that makes the difference. One lady buys her plants because it is the fashion to have them in the windows; the other loves her plants as a part of herself, sees in them an individu- ality ; a glimpse perhaps of something beautiful beyond this world's plain reali- ties, and it is not a care for her to attend to their necessities, but rather a privi lege. In the winter time the familiar question is asked over and over again: " How am I to know when my plants need watering?" Watch them carefully, and they will tell you; wilted leaves, drooping branches, and yellow shades show that they are water-clogged; they must be allowed a respite. Turn up the soil as heretofore directed, with a stout hair pin, and if it is dry give more water ; if not, abstain from it. Success in window gardening depends greatly in never permitting the plants to suffer from any neglect. When you water, give it copiously, and if the next day the plants have enough pass them by ; but there are always some in a window or a stand of plants that desire it, so carry round the watering pot every day, take the time either before or after breakfast, have a special hour, and never forget it. There is more danger of giving too much water during the winter, than in the spring and summer, because the evaporation is much less. In winter there should be no water left in the saucers ; with the exception of aquatics, who require it. A small toy watering pot such as are sold for children's use, is of the greatest assistance; it will sprinkle the surface of tiny pots without wetting either stands 01 window glass. A piece of oilcloth is an excellent protection to carpets, and should always be placed under every window and plant stand. It is best to select a cloudy day for giving your plants a thorough cleaning, 38 WINDOW GARDENING thereby imitating nature, as she seldom washes her vegetation with the sup sliining upon it. A pail of warm water can be brought into the parlor, and cacli plant thoroughly wetted in it, the surface of each leaf well moistened, without making any dis- turbance with the arrangement of the room. Plants perspire like human beings, only the amount is seventeen times as great, according to Mr. Hale's computation In the Hydrangea, tlie minute orifices in the space of an inch, are found to be one hundred thousand. Protection from Frost. During the winter our tender plants are liable to become frost-bitten in.'spiteof every precaution we may take in their behalf. When the mercury out of doors settles to 25° and 30°, some little branches and leaves will droop, and the soil in some pots may become solid in doors. If this happens, all is not lost. Taka the blighted plants tenderly, and dip them into cold water, not icy cold, but drawn from hydrant or cistern; then place them in complete darkness where not a ray of light can penetrate, and in three days at the utmost, you will find them fresh as ever, every leaf upright and green, while if they had been left in the light, every leaf would have fallen. Sev- eral times we have had this experience with our plants and have always revived them If the pots are set back at night from the windows on a piano or table, they will often escape freezing. If a window opens on to a piazza, the plants can be protected by pinning a thick comforter outside of the window, or tucking it into the blinds. Double windows are highly essential in a cold climate to keep off the intense cold, but they should always have an opening, a pane of glass with a hinge, or some means by which the room can be aired daily ; the weekly cleaning is not often enough to open the windows. Do not forget to shade them from too much light and heat in the early part of the evening. The great secret of success in window gardening, consists in overcoming as much as possible the disadvantsigcs under which the plants labor, and rendering their position and treatment as much as possible like those growing in the open air. Spring Culture of MS 'indow Gardens March is the first month that treads upon the flowery border of spring ; it 18 the beginning of the sunny season which shall awake the sleeping bulbs, plants, shrubs, and indeed all vegetation March, April, May and June, are very busy months, for in them we make large additions to our collections of>»iants by propagating new varieties, both by seeds and cuttings. WINDOW GARDENING. 39 Of course with all your fancy for new things, you will not forget to secure some few pots of good old fashioned flowers. They may be dear to many from only childish associations, having proved their value by the many years in which they have been cherished. No true lover despises them The culture in the spring months differs but little from that of the winter ; more air can be given, and often the windows can be let down from the top for the whole day. Remember that if the thermometer stands at 55'' and 65° out of doors, and the sun shines brightly, too much fresh air is impossible; but have the windows closed by three o'clock, for by that time a chilly wind often gprings up in April, which would prove injurious to many tender plants, in a rapidly growing condition. Later in the season there is no danger. Great attention must be paid to general cleanliness; now is the season to promote rapid growth, but if the plants cannot breathe freely, they are in a decidedly consumptive state, and must pine away To prolong the blooming of plants, every fading flower, even if it is but one in a cluster, should be cut away. To keep the flowers of Azaleas from falling, it is an excellent plan to drop a single drop of gum water underneath the flower, where it sinks into the calyx ; now is the time for their most profuse bloom, and they can be made more orna- mental by this process. No flowers should be left with water standing in their saucers, but if the plants are sunk in boxes or moss, there is no need of usmg saucers, which are hard to keep clean. Be sure and attend to the weekly washing , it is quite as essential to your plants as to your household cleanliness A small sized brush such as painters use, will be found of great service as it will wash off" the tiniest leaf and stem. Water must be given plentifully during the spring months, and it is well to supply it till a few drops ooze out from the bottom of the pot ; but don't water while the sun shines full upon the plants. Rain water is always the best for all vegetation. We especially recommend warm water in cold latitudes, as it cannot help but prove more invigorating to the roots. The sun does not shine every day ; often it is withdrawn for a week, but if the soil is warmed with the water, it will not check the growth of the plants as much. This rule does not apply so closely to conservatories ; there the plant can be sprinkl'^d as though they were growing in the open ground, and warm water is not so much of a necessity in a greenhouse, where the whole tempera- ture is adapted to the needs of plant-life. But this is not the case in window gardens, and we think its use the greatest benefit to them. Early in April, or in the later days of March, the plants that were stored in the cellar for safe keeping should be brought to the light ; the decayed leaves and dust must be carefully brushed away and picked off, and the plant repotted, ready to start forth afresh. The more hardy plants, like Roses, Geraniums, Pansies, etc., etc., can be put out of doors on warm days to enjoy an hour or so of fresh air and sunshine, at noontime ; or if a warm rain falls, all the plants can go out and drink in fresh 40 n7.v/;on' GAiinEXixa. life with every drop. But don't let them remain out too long; a ;hill in April is often fatal to Heliotropes, variegated leaved plants, Fuchsias, etc. One must be governed by the climate In March or April, according to your latitude, it is well to look into the subject of repotting the plants that have stood in the window. If the plants have had the requisite care and attention during the winter, they have mailu many new roots and must now have larger pots if you would have them grow to the best advantage. "Water the pots freely so that the ball of earth will slip out easily, and have your fresh potting soil moist to the touch. Never pot a plant with its ball of earth quite dry, for you cannot give it a good watering in that state. All the water vou may supjtly will run down the fresh soil at the sides, and the plant will experience the fate of Tantalus of old, and literally starve to death, although its nourishment is in sight. Ifyouusenew pots, let them be soaked in water over night if possible, and at least three or four hours before using thera. If your pots are old, let them be thoroughly washed, and cleansed from all green mould and soil. It is not needful to provide larger pots when the first roots show themselves; but when they have twined and interlaced their tiny fibres, then they require more room. Often a light rap ujjon the edge of the pot, will be sufficient to turn out the ball of earth ; but if not, a thin bladed knife can be run around close to the pot for an inch or two from the top, and this will bring it out easily. Turn it out with your hand and examine the roots; if they are closely curled about it, the plant requires a pot one size larger. Fill the pot with rich compost and put in the ball and plant directly in the centre, for a plant growing sideways in a pot looks very badly; fill up all around the sides of the pot, packing the soil down firmly with the fingers, cover the ball to the depth of a quarter or half an inch, leaving a vacant si>ace of half an inch more to the edge of the pot for the purpose of catering to advantage. When you turn out the plant, the roots will sometimes appear decayed, and the soil poor, dried, and gritty ; then wash it all away, removing the dried roots, and give fresh, rich soil, pressing it firmly about the roots, but keep the same sized |)ot. Perhaps you will find your plants injured by injudicious watering, the roots rotted, and liie soil sodden. Cut off the roots as much as possible without remov- ing the whole of them, and plant them in much smaller pots with a sandy soil, and they will regain their health. As the weather grows warmer in May, many plants can be placed in balconies or on piazzas, and shielded from chilly winds and cold nights by mats or blan- ker, or they may be removed to cooler rooms where the sunshine will be suffi- ciently warm to keep them healthy. This is far better than roasting them in the hot rooms that many will live in, spite of all remonstrances to the contrary. Sweet Verbenas should be bro-jght from their winter quarters early in March, and they will soon put forth their light green, deliciously perfumed leaves. WlXnOW GARDEXlXa 41 The plants that will flower most profusely in these months are : Azaleas. Heliotropes. Abutilons. Lantanas Acacias. lAbonia florihunda. Anemones. Lobelias. Auriculas. _ Mahernia odorata. Achimenes. Maurandias. Bouvardias. Myrtles. Begonias Oranges. C(dla Aethiopica. Oleanders. Cin er arias . Pelargo niums . Ci/clamens. Primroses. Daphnes. Petunias. Diehjtra. Pansies. Epiphyllum Truncatum, etc. Roses. Tea. Hybrids. Bourbons luchsias. Bengal Roses. Gardenias. Verbenas. Geraniums, in all varieties. Violets. The Mush plant (^Mimulus moschatus') is an universal favorite. For culture in outside window boxes, the best are Violets, early flowering Snow Drops, early flowering Anemones, Forget-ine-Nots and Primroses. Summer Culture of Window Gardens. June, July and August, do not require as much labor as the busy months of spruigtime. To be sure the cultivator needs to give daily attention lest the plants should become dried up from want of water; and must also tie, stake, prune, air, and weed with great care. Water will now be required in greater quantities, and it need not be any warmer than standing in the sun will make it. The evening is the best time to apply it, because the j)lants will drink it up during the night to their great ad- vantage, while if given in the morning, the sun's rays will claim their share, and by quick evaporation much will be lost in the atmosphere. There are some plants that will desire, and must have water twice in the twent}'- four hours. Fuchsias, Callas, Lobelias, etc., should have water both night and morning. After the first of June, the plants will enjoy all the fresh air that can be given both night and day, in nearly all latitudes. Calceolarias and Cinerarias will be benefited by being kept cool, which can be done by placing them on damp moss, or refuse tan bark, and covering the surface of the pot with it. By the middle of June they can be placed in a cool, shady window, and all the stems that have flowered should be cut off, or if planted in a cool border, they will furnish more roots which can be divided in September or October. By the end of May, in many localities, many plants will flourish better out- side the window than inside ; Geraniums, Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, Roses, Helio- 42 WINDOW OARDENINO. tropes, etc., etc., can be placed in boxes and vases on piazzas or balcooies, or a garden can be made on the roof. Large strong boxes can be attached to the outside of the windows, and all the plants set into them. In this way much care is avoided, for the plants can be watered with a syringe or watering pot, and the debris of withurod leaves and stems IS more easily cleared away. The plants can also be kept much freer from insects, and will grow more luxuriantly. Manure waterings can be given weekly. A tablespoonful of guano in a gallon of water, which should stand in the sun two or three days before being applied, is the easiest to procure, but all or any of the manures alluded to before, can be employed. When the tlower buds appear, stimulants are much needed ; and if no othjr can be procured, try this. Put a teaspoonful of a(iua ammonia into a gallon of water, and sprinkle it all over the leaves and surface of the soil. Cut off all faded {lowers; this greatly helps to keep the plants free from mildew, and increases their healthy condition ; every yel- low leaf should be taken off as soon as perceived. If ever a plant becomes thoroughly dry from oversight or neglect, place it in a deep pan of rain water (if possible,) and let it remain for an hour or longer, until it is thoroughly soaked, but do not let the pot be entirely covered with tiie water. Hot water will frequently revive faded cut flowers; cut off a small bit of the ste n, and then immerse the end into very hot water; you can see the petals smooth out from their crumpled folds, the leaves uncurl, and the whole branch and flower resume its beauty. Colored flowers revive the most completely. White flowers turn yellow, and the thickest textured petals come out the best from this hot foot bath For preserving flowers in water, there is nothing so good as finely powdered charcoal. It keeps the water from all obnoxious odors. As a general rule too much air and too much liglit can not bo given ; yet when in full bloom the direct rays of the sun will cause delicate flowers to fade rapidly, while if the}' are .shaded from the noon-tide heat, their beauty will be much prolonged ; but during the night the more fresh air they breathe is the better. If house-plants are plunged in pots into the borders, care must be taken to either close up the outlet at the botom of the pot, or else to put bits of plank or shingles under them, or set them upon small stones. This is needful on account of the tendency of their tiny rootlets to force their way out of the pot, and when the plant is removed, they must necessarily be cut off, thereby causing it to droop or wither, and greatly injuring its growth. It is not advisable to let your plants run to seed. You desire to secure flowers, and to do this you must not let the plant fuKil its mission of leaves, buds, flow- ers and seeds in natural order, but by cutting off all the faded blooms, stimulate it to shoot forth fresh branches and buds, and strive to do its duty. In order to secure seeds that are worth planting, it is needful to pick off al' the later buds, and throw the whole strength of the plant into forming seed tha/ will prove worth the'raising. WINDOW GARDENING 43 Do not omit the practice of washing your pot plants in the summer, thinking that the rain will do it for you. It will help you doubtless, but if the leaves are bushy, many of them will not have their full share, and should still be syringed and washed with all the help of thuuib and finger, sponge, i)rush, or garden syringe Keep the soil well stirred up in these mouths, for if you desire healthy plants the air must have access to the roots, and the surface of the pot must not be allowed to cake. There are many annuals that make fine pot plants both iu summer and winter, but in June, July and August, they will give you most brilliant flowers at a very small cost. Boxes of Portulacca, Asters, Phlox, Stocks, Balsams, Pinks, Schizanthus, Zinnias, etc., are highly ornamental and within the reach of all flower lovers, while each of the above named flowers make handsome single plants in pots. We can hardly give a list of flowers that bloom in these months, for their name is legion, and embraces many of those mentioned heretofore. The Lilies are in their glory, and there can be no finer pot plants raised than the various varieties of Japan Lilies, Tigridias, Amaryllis and Vallotta j^'^^purea Kiipcrba, all of which are mentioned in the chapter upon bulbs. liate in August, cuttings can be struck from all bedding-out plants that are desired to be kept during the winter. At this season they strike root very freely, and will frequently become fine plants by December. Gloxinias and Achimenes are most desirable additions to summer blooming flowers. The Gloxinias are particularly beautiful and brilliant. Their exquisite coloring and freshness is unequaled. Achimenes are, also, a genus of splendid plants, which will be described in Part II. They are unrivaled in beauty of coloring and form. They produce the most beautiful masses of blossoms in vases and baskets, over which they fes- toon their glorious flowers and trailing branches. Autumn Culture of Window Gardens For this season there is little to be added to the directions already given for the culture of house plants in previous months The plants that are intended for winter flowering should all be repotted and prepared for their permanent quarters early in September, so as to become fully established in the pots before the season is cold and gloomy. The roots must be attended to as heretofore directed, and if they cling to the surface of the pot, one of a larger size should be substituted, and fresh earth given. Be sure to procure good soil, and to press it tightly about the roots, and crown of the bulb, or stem of the plant Do not attempt to cultivate too many plants, remembering that o»e strong, handsome shaped healthy plant is worth more than ten or twelve sickly things, that are lanky, scraggy and never blossom Give your plants the morning sunshine. It is far better than the afternoon, *nd if the windows open, both to the east and southwest, so much the better for 44 WIADOW GAliDEMNQ. tho plants at both windows; yet, if no otlicr location can be j)iocured, the after noon sun is far bettor than none at all. Never use glazed pots or crockery and painted ware, unless the common pot» are set into them for ornamenlal purposes. Stimulate once a week witli some one of the various liquid manures alluded to Avoid extremes of cold and heat, and give all the air that is allowable, accord, ing to the temperature out of doors. Of course, each gardener must regulate her plants, according to the latitude in which she lives. If, on the Pacific slope, the dust that is so tenacious during summer and autumn must be the greatest enemy to contend witli, while on the Atlantic coast the cliilly, bleak east winds are the greatest drawbacks to success- ful plant culture. In the west, the cold winds blow from the Rocky Mountains. No set code of rules can be given, and common sense must govern window gardening, as well as in all the branches of domestic economy. A large sponge will do duty for a watering pot, or a hand brush broona dipped into water and shaken over the plants; but sprinkling must be given in some shape, at least, once a day. If the pots are thoroughly washed with hot soap suds, all tendency to green mould will be prevented. Make the water that is given, warmer now than in the summer. Put your finger into the saucer, and see how cold it is, when it drains through the outlet. And if quite cold, give water of a greater warmth. Plants that are in a state of rest, should have but very little water during the autumn. Bulbs must be started for early flowering in September and for Easter, bloom- ing late, in November. Roses should all be repotted with rich soil : full two-thirds of entirely decom- posed cow manure and leaf mould, so decayed as to crumble in the fingers, should be added, to one-third of good sandy loam. As most of the desirable flowering plants will be treated of in their respective chapters, it will only be a repetition to notice them here, or to give a list of them. Insects, and How to Kill Them. The previous anxieties of the gardener are but light compared to the den.llv warfare he is novr forced to wage against the tiny insects wliich not only infest Ins liouse-plants, hut the soil in which they grow and bloom. The red spider is the most minute, yet the most dangerous foe wherewith we have to deal. Hot and close parlors and sitting-rooms, are its delight, and it weaves its tiny webs about the casements waiting until tlie plants are ready to feed it. lie is a treacherous invidious enemy seeming to lie in the window frames quiet and warm, but ready to seize upon our rarest Roses, most valuable Fuchsias and Carnations, as soon as they are placed in their winter quarters. It is the tiniest of red mites ; the merest grain as it lies in repose under the leaves of the plant it has chosen for its dwelling, but when the leaf is closely ex- amined, it rushes wildly about, apparently knowing that it is doomed, and its minutes are numbered. Though these pests are so minute, one can easily discover their presence ; for the upper sides of the leaves grow brown and sire, and the plant loses its healthy appearance. A thorough sprinkling and washing may drive away the intruders, but if the heated and close atmosphere is still continued, plenty more will be generated. Red pepper has been found decidedly obnoxious to it. It should be dusted upon with a pepper castor, holding the plant bottom side upwards, wliile another per- son dusts on the pepper. Of coui'.se you must take care not to let it fall in any quantity upon the soil of the pot, lest it should injure the roots. A decoction of quassia will also act fatally upon insect life, if used in the following proportions : Boil one ounce of quassia wood in three pints of Avater until but a quart re- mains ; when hike warm, either dip in the infested plants, or sponge off each leaf with a sponge or brush. Let them stand fifteen minutes or so, then dip the plants or wash them off with clear water, as the decoction of quassia, if allowed to remain on the leaves, will injure them. Tobacco smoke is also a good preventive to some insects, but this red spider does not seem to heed it. The aphis or green fly, does not affect a liking for tobacco, for it intoxicates it, and causes it to fall from the leaves and branches of all plants. Hold a lighted cigar under the leaves of your Roses, etc., not so near as to curl thera 40 ir/.v/>oir OAh'Dhwiya. Willi llic licit however, and see how they will fall ilown completely stupefied; but, if loft to themselves, tliey will revive, ami slowly return to their leafy homes. Place a jiapor under the leaves when you apply the smoke, and then you can easily destroy them. If a plant is very much infested with these no.vious pests, take the pot in your hand and spread a paper u-ider it, then with a feather or small wing, brush ofT the insects and burn tliem all up. Then dip the plant into warm water, to kill the eggs, and with a weekly washing, smoking or sprinkling, not an insect will be seen. A conservatory plant-stand, or window garden with plants covered with these insects, plainly announces the neglect they have received. The old maxim seems to come here again in play, i. e. " An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." If plants were as carefully washed and tended as many pet animals were, there would be no need of any remedies against insects. Conservatories can be kept free of all insects by being smoked once a week with tobacco. Close all tlie windows carefully that lead into the house, take ■the largest size flower pot-saucer, put a shovel full of blazing coals into it, and pour over them an ounce of tobacco, letting it smoke well ; if it is slightly damp- ened the smoke will be more dense. Let it smoke for half an hour, tlien open the window out of doors, and let the smoke go out. Choose a bright fair day when half an hour's outside air will not injure the plants, and you will keep all of them fresh and vigorous. The mealy bug, is a white mealy looking insect, hut very destructive to plant life. It does not dislike tobacco, but has a hatred to whale oil soap. A quarter of a pound dissolved in five quarts of water, and syringed on to the plants, or ppiinkled with a watering pot, will force it to disappear. Like the aphis, it can be brushed off with a chicken's wing. Bioicn scale will sometimes attack Roses, Daphnes, Oranges and Pittosporums, but it is not nearly as common as the above mentioned insect. Bad ventilation and daik jjlaces aie its cliief cause and linhitnt ; frequent washings and picking off with the haml, are its only means of destruction, as it thrives on tobacco smoke, and makes no objection to the di.sgusting odor of whale oil soap suds. Thiips is a dark brown or whiti.sli yellow fly, very active on the wing, ami greatly injurious to many plants. It will not thrive where tobacco smoke is given tc plants, and is most likely to be found where plants are placed thickly together, in a shaded window. The Verbena mite is a most tiny insect, smaller than the red spider, and quite as di.sastrous in its ravages. It « mnot be seen with the naked eye, but viewed through a microscope, it appears as large as a house fly If it attacks your plants, it appears like a black rust so thickly does it congre- gate together. It delights in FIeli()tro|)es, Petunias, Verbenas, etc., and is closely allied to the insect which infests the Plum, Peach and Cherry trees Neither sulphur, tobacco, or whnle oil soap are obnoxious to it, but it will run WINDOW GARDENING 47 away from the " Grafton Mineral Fertilizer," and a thorough sprinkling of the dry powder on the leaves or stems well moistened, will make the msects dis lodge tlieir hold, not to return. There is another mite whose color vi)t. KimI pepper carefully dusted over the outside of the earth will kill them, and iheii ihu earlli coiitainiMg it can be removed, lest the pepper misht prove too liealin^ l<> ilie rooia. Salt is said to drive them away. We tried it as recommendeil, and killed half a dozen of our Hnest Carnations, so concluded not to trv such rash experiments on choice plants. A^ain, in using the red pepper, of course you must not put on a full spoonful, but only a slight sprinkling over the surface, where the worms lie the thickest. If angle worms are in the soil, they can be removed by turning out the ball of earth and picking them out, and if a tine hair pin or kmtting needle is thrust into the .soil, they will all come to the surface and can easily be ing the foliage fresh and bright. It can be applied once a week without damage to the plant, and can be made by slacking a small piece of fresh lime in hot water, then adding cold, and slirrmg it well. The water will only dissolve just so much lime, and the residue will remain in the |>ail or iirkin used to dissolve it. More water can be turned on to it, and .so continue until it is all taken up. Then bottle the water and cork up for use. Keep the bottles where they w\\\ not freeze. A little of the undissolved iinie can be put into every bottle, and when the water turns out discolored, more can be added to it. A tablespoonful of spirits of camphor, added to a pint and a half of water, will make a good wash to keep off insects. But with proper care and good manage- ment these antidotes need not be employed. Fresh water well applied, fresh air at proper times, and cleanliness at all times, are thj best preventives one can employ against insects. Propagation from Seeds, Cuttings, etc. At present most of our Window Gardens in cities are filled with plants bought from the florist. Of course one half do not know how they are grown, and hence do not well know how to take care of them. Every window gardener, it seems to us, should understand the first principles of plant hfe, and learn for himself how they are propagated. Nearly all plants that are desirable for window gardening can be raised either from seeds, cuttings or by grafting. Bulbotis roots are propagated chiefly from offsets, and the new varieties are produced from the seeds. Other plants are also ii\creased by oflsets or separating the roots, but their number is comparatively few. Warmth, moisture, proper temperature and a soil suitable to promote the sprouting of the germ, and a shady situation until the seeds have swelled, are essential to the vegetation of seeds. For window plants a greater degree of warmth is needful. Unless the air is from 66° to 76°, and some bottom heat is supplied, your success will not satisfy you. Seeds of tender plants require hot house treatment. Moisture must not be with held at any time ; yet, if it is in excess, the seeds are apt to decay before they sprout. A thick piece of flannel wet with hot water, and laid over the soil and pressed lightly down upon it, will ensure the needful moisture, warmth and darkness. Warm water should be given over it, letting it permeate slowly through it. It must be lifted daily to see if the tender seeds are starting ; the flannel must be removed before the leaves appear, and a pane of glass which will exactly cover the seed box or pot placed closely over them. Too deep planting is a fruitful cause of failure with amateur seed raisers. The depth of the soil must be proportioned to the size of the seed. Petunias, Primu- las, etc., require the least sprinkling of sandy loam. A good general rule is to cover the seed only to the thickness of their own diameter, yet this would not hold good with Sweet Peas, for they grow better when planted three inches in depth. With very fine seeds it is best to press them lightly into the surface of the soil with the fingers, then shade from the sun three or four days either with cloth or newspapers, and sprinkle over the coverings, not letting them become dry at aU, yet not killing the germ of the seeds by too much water. Most tyros in plant culture fail by sowing their seeds in soil that is too wet or 5() w/ynow GAUDKyi.xa. too dry. All seeds sown in pots are more diflicult to manage than those raised in a hot bed or in the border on account of the danger of dryinj; uj). The ancient maxim again comes up, " lliat if a thing is worth doing at all, it is worth doing well." So in plant culture it is just as easy to do it right as wrong. The soil should be light and .sandy ; clear sand, sucli as the masons use for making jdastcr, is just the thing witli which to cover the seeds, and to mix with the loam. The soil should not be all of .sand, because it will dry too quickly. Nor must it be of clayey loam, because it will keep too wet, and will not let the air circulate freely enough to make the .seeds vegetate. But a good loam mixed with sand will answer our purpose exactly. Fill the pots with it and leave quarter of an inch of clear, sand at the top, for tlie minute seeds, and half an inch for tho.se of larger size. Abutilons, Pelargo- niums, Coboca, etc. Set the pots in water up to the rims to ler the .soil become thoroughly wetted, then place them to drain for half an hour or more. Plant ^he seeds on the surface, sprinkling over them and pressing lightly upon them t.and proportionate to their needs. The sand must not be allowed to dry at all, and we find that nearly all kinds of seeds will germinate more quickly in it tlian in loam, though a mixture of both may be desirable in some cases when the care is not constant. Shallow cigar boxes are preferable to pots; they will hold much more, can be handled a.s easily, and make the best seed pans that we know of. The soil for planting seeds should be as fine as possible. It is a good plan to bake it in an old pan in the oven, then sift it through a good sized sieve, which can be made out of an old milk pan, by boring holes through the bottom of it. Soil thus prepared is far better than if taken directly from the garden, yet in all cases it is better to buy it of the florists, then you know it is just right. When the second tier of leaves .show themselves, it is time to transplant the seedlings, into the pots or boxes in which you intend them to grow and bloom. There is .some art in watering seedlings as well as plants, as there is great dan- ger of the tiny sprouts becoming water clogged or " damped of!'." It is often better to water little pots by placing them in shallow pans of wa- ter, and letting them suck up moisture for a few minutes. Boxes can be mois- tened by pouring the water against the sides of them, holding the spout close to them, and lettmg only a small stream fall from the nozzle, thusgently wetting the whole surface. The pane of glass that is to be kept over the young plants, can be edged upon one side to give more air, and prevent their growmg spimUing, and wire drawn. Bell glas.ses are much better however, and are largely used in England and in France where they are called cloches. They are conical, rising to a sharp point in the middle, and are of cheap construction. Seedlings rai.scd under them flour- ish finely, and there is little need for watering tiny plants ; for when the edge of the gla.ss is within the rim of the pot, the moisture becomes condensed upon the sides of the glass, and moistens the soil by trickling down upon it. WINDOW GARDENING. 51 Another desirable way is to pack the pot in which the seeds are planted, into another pot of larger size, and fill up the space with moss, refuse hops or tan bark, which can be kept both warm and moist with hot water. A little of it can stand in the saucer which holds the largest pot, and thus a uniform state of moisture can be preserved. Hard shelled seeds, like Canna, Acacias, Cypress Vines, etc., will germinate much quicker if they are soaked in boiling water for an hour or so. Turn it upon them boiling hot, and let it stand until cool, then plant the seeds. Some gardeners prefer to pour boiling water upon the surface of the soil prepared for them, rather than upon the seeds. Either way will succeed, but it is essential to soften the horny substance which envelops the seeds, if you desire them to grow. Verbena seeds require soaking in warm water over night ; turn the water upon them, and let the cup stand in a warm place. Many beautiful plants can be raised from seeds as easily as from cuttings, and be more highly appreciated because they are all your own, developed by yoUr patient care and attention. Begonias, Callas, Oleanders, Cyclamens, Calceolarias, Gloxinias, Primulas, Carnations, Lantanas, Coleus, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Cinerarias, Pelargo- niums, Camellias, Abutilons and Cacti, etc., can all be made to grow into lino plants, but it requires constant care anj patience to cultivate them. Some of them are very long in germinating, others in blooming, and they re- quire much time, for the least neglect will often prove fatal to them. Cuttings. There is little trouble raising plants from cuttings; a few rules are essential, anil a little care and time are requisite, but any one can make them strike root. They can be struck either from woody pieces without leaves, but all ready to send them forth, or from young green shoots. The first mentioned will rarely fail to grow, but they grow .slowly, taking sometimes a long time to start the first leaf, while the nice gi-een shoots will quickly become respectable plants. But it is well to know that if the branches of an old plant are broken down, the hard woody stems will produce in time, fine plants. Take a hard old stem of Geranium, Fuchsias, Myrtle, Heliotrope. Sweet Ver- bena, or any desirable plant, and cut it .so as to leave one or two joints or eye? on a piece, (a joint is the slight thickening of the branch whence the leaves and side branches will come out), set them into a damp sponge or moss, keeping it moistened, for four or five days, a week may not be too long, but keep them in a dark csol place. A slight callous will then be formed, and the cutting will be all ready to put forth fresh roots as soon as it is potted. In carrying cuttings from place to place, it is best to wrap them in a damp sponge, leaving out the upper leaves, and covering the sponge with oil silK ct 52 w/ynow aAiii)i:.\i.\n. enamel c!lje of a pot net over an inch apart, and nearly aj Oeop as tLe seooad eye. cha.i^te:r VII. Propagating Boxes, Heating Cases and Cold Frames. There are always some plants that are very difficult to start without some bottom heat, and all amateur gardeners cannot possess a hot bed. But the heaied case affords to them the greatest facilities for striking cuttings, raising seeds, and bringing well established plants into rapid growth. A home made case may be made in the form of a double cube, say twelve inches wide and high, and eighteen inches long. A concealed tank of zinc filled with hot water, will give out and retain the heat from twelve to twenty-four hours without changing the water. No lamp or extra heat need be used, and the cases are perfectly clean and unobjectionable, while they can be with a littlo mechanical skill, rendered very ornamental and agreeable objects for any parlor or sitting room. It is best that the entire frame work be made of wood, and the sides and top consist each of a pane of glass fitted into the frame ; or in other words, it is a small glass show case with open bottoms. One of the sides may be arranged so as to slide out to give greater ease in arranging the plant within and for cleaning the glass. The top may be movable, fastened by hinges, and lifted up one or two mches occasionally for ventilation. When the plants are in bloom, the entire side or top can be left open all day. The wood work may be either painted or be constructed simply of black wal- nut, oak, and oiled; either will look well. In some of our horticultural stores there are cases already constructed for prop- agating purposes which fill the exact need. Figs. 17 and 18 are manufactured of galvanized iron, one being about three feet Fig. 17. long and two wide, the other one foot by eighteen inches A shallow boiler about 54 »7,V//0ir GAIiDEMSa. the size of the hotlom is fitted in each case, filled with water, and Iicated by the llaine of eillier a lamp or gas jet beneath. The top is of glass and can be lifted at any time fresh air is needed. A llieiinometer completes the ecpiipinent. It is very simple and succe.ssful. The heal can be run up to any desired point and the lady who uses it can soon niiliate herself into the mysteries and practice of rooting, cutting and propagating fine bedding plants. Fig. 19 is a projjagating box made of earthen ware, with grooves in the top for a pane of glass to slide up and down with a cover. The heat thus generate011' flAnDEXIXO. AVIicn warm days occur tlio ^aslics can be uncovered, and the sun allowed to ghnie through tlic glass on to the pinnts, but until February it is better to keep theiii in darkness, and not admit ficsh air oftener than once in two or three weeks. Do it when the air is most genial, and raise the sashes only long enough to inspect the i)lants, and if very dry give a little water. Window Pots, Boxes, Jardinieres, and Plant Stands. Glazed pots are not as good to grow plants in as the real pottery, on account of their want of porosity, which is a great help in watenng, evaporation and aeration; likewise tlieir saucers are sometimes fastened to them, and are liable to fill with earth, clog up the outlets, and are not easily cleaned. The earthen pots are easily cleaned and plants thrive much better in them, than in fancy china or glass ones. Still these last are often desirable for lOom decoration, and many very handsome ones are made, which can be used \)y simply setting the other common pot in- kij;. 21. side, and if there is any vacant space between, it may be filled up with moss. The size of the pot should be in unison with the size of the plant ; tlie most con- venient ones to handle, may measure fioni live to seven or eight inches across top. Yet if any have extensive window gardens, they will need all sizes, from 3, 4, 5, and 6 inches diameter, up to eit;ht inches — some for propagating pui- poses, others for shifting into, from smaller sizes. Saucers of course, of the proper .sizes, should fit each pot. A new pot should be placed in a pail of water to soak, and e.xpel the dry air from the pores, and an old pot should be caiefully washed both inside and out before use. Pieces of charcoal broken up fine should be put into the bottom of each pot to the depth of i.j^r. ■>■>. about two or three inches ; less of course in the smaller sized pots. 58 WIND OW OA RDEXINO. As the pots become filled with roots, the plants must be sliifted into a sizo larger, and when these are filled, again repotted into others. Vv'. ■iX Fig. 24. It is easy to find when to repot the plants, by running a broad bladed table knife around the inner edge of the pot, and turning it bottom side upwards over tlie hand ; the ball of earth readily slips out, and the roots are disclosed to view. If you suspect there are worms in the soil, their presence can be detected, by the fact that tliey soon come to the surface to know the cause of the disturb- ance, and then they can be destroyed. The soil should be freqiientl}' stirred about the surface of the pots, and for this purpose a good sized hair pin or two-tincd foik are good instruments. The for- Fig. W. FIs. 2fl. iner is best as its prongs arc so .small, raking up the earth williout distuibinjj greatly the tiny rootlets. In potting or repotting it isneedful sometimes to cutback the plants, and when it is done, due deference must be paid to their shape, thinning out the branches 60 tliat they will be in good form, for the beauty of the plant is greatly depend- ent upon this. WIiVDOW GARDENING 59 Figs. 21 & 22 are very neat pots . .ade of pottery ware nearly white, glazed on the outside, and intended to hold inside the common pots of earthen ware. Most of the florists have them as they are quite orna- mental and are becoming popular. Their price is from $1.50 to ^2.60. An objection has been raised to the common pots, that they soon become dirty and covered with mould and rust, and need considerable care to keep clean. The only remedy is con- stant scrubbing. And it is impos- sible to have a thoroughly porous well drained pot, without its sides becoming in time old and sour ; at- tempts have been made to paint them with ochre, or red whitewash, but it soon rubs off and is disagreeable. To combine ornament with usew the one must be placed inside the other. There is a style of mountable flower pot, now used somewhat by English fioi-ists, made of separate slabs of wood joined together with flexible hinges. (See Fig. 23.) The advan- tages claimed for it, are that it can be taken to pieces and adjusted, that plants can be easily transplanted without disturbing the soil or injur- ing the roots. With small window gardens it would not be needed ; but in the case of very large conservatory plants, where a diameter of two feet Kig. 2a. is required it might be found useful, as the plant might need examination to per- fect the drainage, or remove the soil and replace with fresh compost. The wires, as shown in the engraving, are moved down or up for tightening or loosening, so that any one can make them. There are several styles of pots, square, and made of prettily ornamented pieces of wood, (Figs. 25 & 26,) so simple that they need no explanation. The same designs have been copied in glazed ware with various colors and are accessible to any one who will visit the horticultural stores, or those places where the most tasteful pottery and household ware is kept for sale. WIND \v a A i: [> r.MNu ■ Fig. 29. FIJI- 3*. WINDOW GARDENINO. 61 An exceedingly ornamental design for a flovrer pot for a drawing room is shown in (Fig. 27,) made of Minton tile, the ground work of which is dark blue and the flowers white. All such decorative pots impart a pleasant tasteful, look to any room. We would be glad to have them multiplied and constantly improved. Fig. 28, is of the same material, but of various shades of white, red and green. Jardinieres. These are fanciful, single or double boxes, of more artistic construction than the common pot, and intended to be used for decoration purposes entirely. Many are constructed and filled with entirely artificial moss, and imitation plants with highly colored leaves, areset therein. Of course little or no interest is felt in them after they have been placed in their position, while if they had been natural living plants, the very care they daily required would have developed far more love and appreciation than the foraier; still we would not omit either, all do well in their proper place. Figs. 28 to 34, are rare ornaments of beauty, especially 20, 30, 32, which are exquisite in their rich coloring and material. They arc constructed of glass mosaics, and intemled to contain pots of choice plants, hidden with moss, and thus prepared to adorn the window of the drawing room or library. The glass mosaic is arranged in designs of richest colors, set into cement of pure white color, and the whole hardened and polished to one glistening surface. Some of the designs are imitations of snow crystals, and of course are the perfection of art. The in- terior of these pots is lined with zinc, and they may at will hold either plants with earth, or be filled with moss and hold cut flowers. The illustrations are taken from originals exhibited at one of the Crystal Palace exhibitions in London. Figs. 31, 33, & 34, are sketches of other designs of rustic stands and boxes, with the Dracaena, which is a favorite with all fond of the plant decorations of 62 WnXDOW GARDENING. rooms. No. 34, is a rustic Tile Jardinet, hexagon shaped and 11 to IG inches in diameter. No. 31, is the samt mounted upon a rustic cedar wood stand. No. 33, is a cliina flower va.se with fence patter'', made entirely round, and from 6 to 14 inches in diamjver. No. 35, is a pretty little idea of a sea shell, fitted to a rustic frame; the interior of the shell is filled with compost or moss, and fiom it grows a feathery fern. No. 3G, is a rustic wood basket, made by any one with a taste for mechani- cal construction and very simpl}'- put together. It is suitable for any house, and adapted to any position out doors or in doors. AVill look best if filled with ferns, but when bulbs are in season, till it with ^^ good selection of Hyacinths, Tulips or CroCuses, ac- coiding to the fancy of the fair gardener. No. 37, is a rustic vase of circular outline, intended especially for indoor decoration They are verv clieaj); both should be lined with zinc, or else the presence of the damp earth will cause them to rot. When bulbs are past their spring bloom- ing, then take Ferns or Dracaena, or any plant provided it is not of too great height, and must have an agreeable shading of color, with appropriate form and contour. ^^ y\'A. 36. Fig. 37. A large number of vari-colored floral pots and jardinieres, made of lava, and now imported from Europe, can be found of various prices from ^1.50 to 85.00, in any of our fancy china ware and porcelain stores. They are of beauti- ful finish, and usually very cheap. Some American manufacturers are now producing designs in terra cotta which are WIA'D W GARDENINO. 63 pleasing. Fig. 40, is used both as a h3'acinth or bulb pot, or as a bouquet holder, the interior being pre- viously filled with sand. The sizes vary from twelve to eighteen inches high, and consist of from tliree to five apertures for placing the bulb. They are usually well drained beneath. Fig. 39, is a rustic pot of about nine inches high, resting upon a dolphin base six inches high. The sides of the pot are ornamented with a grape vine running around, and clusters of leaves and fruit. Fig. 38, is a wall iv}' basket about eight inches high, and proportionate height, intended to hold earth and a plant of Ivy, which will grow and clamber up either the sides of the room, or over the door if the pot is hung near. Two pots of the same design, might be very appropriately hung, one on each side of a win dow out doors, and the Ivy as it grew, be trained grace- fully over the sides and top or the front of the house Pig. 38 Window Boxes. If the window should happen to be in a recess, the sills may be occupied with boxes. Almost anj'thing will do if clean. A wooden trough lined with lead or zinc, may be constructed to hold a considerable quantity of earth, and here climbing plants may grow and root, and be trained in profusion over the entire window. The Coboea is often used for this purpose, and after it has Fig. 10. 64 Wn\'D W QARD EN I NO. grown enough to fill the whole windovr, it may be allowed to hang down in fes- toons, forming a natural and graceful screen in any sunny window. Climbing vines need considerable care and examination, for they are apt to harbor spiders and insects of various descriptions. Likewise, they drop their dead leaves and flowers, necessitating constant cleanliness. Nothing is so clean and satisfactory as the Ivy. Everything in these pots must be regularly watered, and like all other pots, precaution must be had as to drainage ; all troughs or boxes without exception should be lined with zinc ' '^is^^^ Fig. 41 is a design of a window box, constructed by an ordinary carpenter. Two boards of common timber eight inches wide, half an inch thick, and three and a half feet long, form the side of the box ; the ends are twelve inches wide eight inches high, six and a half inches broad. The bottom board is twelve inches wide, one inch thick, three and a half feet long, and projects about an inch bej'^ond the side all around. A tray or lining of zinc was made by the tin- man and fitted in. A piece of oil cloth with a pretty pattern, and some mosaic tile work was obtained at the carpet score, and tacked carefully to the sides. Mould- ings of wood were nailed all round the top, bottom and end, then all the wood work was stained by rubbing it over with burnt umber and water, and after it was dry, a coating of varnish was put on to finish it. For filling such a box there is a great variety to choose from ; at one time you may use Begonias, at another, Geraniums, with variegated foliage, such as the L'elegante. Then at your pleasure you may, in cool weather, change to young evergreens, of which Arbor Vitaes, twelve inches high, make the most cheerful appearance. During the winter time if 3'ou have it in a reasonably warm room, you can place several Dracaenas, the D. terminalis and D. Australis being the best ~~y Fig. 42 is of plain tile or glazed earthenware. ;r- Fig. 43, is of Minton tile more highly decorated, and costing about $15.00. The third or Fig. 44, is still more elegant, and represents it as it would appear filled with Bulbs, Hj'acinths, Crocuses and Tulips. The use of these costly window tile boxes is becoming more general every WINDOW GARDENIXa. 05 year, and tradesmen inform us that the past year alone the demand in this coun- try for these objects of taste has completely trebled. Boxes made of plain wood may be ornamented with acorns, as shown in Fig '15, a design often used for green-liouses or staircase windows. Take a mixture of acorn and powdered shells, cut all the acorns in half, lengthways, cover the box witli glue, then lay the acorns flat side down along the edge and bottom of the sides, one after the other, and in the open space between, affix them in any fantastic plan you like ; then sift the powdered shell thickly all over the box between the acorns, and it will soon dry. If you jchpose, you can vary the Fig. 4:1. acorns with cone seeds, and red berries cut m half. Another style, Fig. 46, is made in a similar way, excepting oniy that pine cones are used in place of acorns, and the edges of the box and its ends, and supports at bottom, are con- structed of rustic cedar wood. This pot is filled witli a fine collection of Bulbs, Hyacinths, Narcissus, Jonquils, Tulips, Crocuses, Snow Drop and Scillas, length about three feet, and width about eight inches. There are other very prett}' rustic molesdf construction. The outside of home made boxes, may also be oniamented with white and gray lichens, wet in water to make them pliable, then glued on, or fastened securely with thread wire, atlachini; the wire to .-mall brad nails on the inside and outer edge of the box. Fig. 44. When dry it will have a pleasing appearance. Sections of bark may also be used to cover the sides, or wood mosaic introduced ; take the split half of small sticks of spruce, maple, oak and birch, arrange them in alternate diamonds, oval and square, varying the colors with an artistic eye, and fastening the cleft sticks with small brads, which will not be perceptible. When finished, cover with a coat of varnish. Gum shellac, dissolved in turpentine, or common furniture polish may be used foi varnishing. Pine cones are favorites in these box decorations, and sometimes 5 66 WrNDOW GARDENING. are used either whole or are pulled to bits and nailed in regular rows along the boards The preparation of these boxes for plants must be good ; place, first a layer of finely powdered charcoal an inch in thickness over the bottom. It acts not only as a preventive against mould, but also as a fertilizer, enriching the soil Then select your compost, which has been previously described, composed of rich loam, sand and forest leaf mould, and decayed barn-j'^ard manure, and fill up to the brim. If you are growing bulbs leave out all manures, and use more leaf mould ; see that the bottom of the box has means of drainage by a hole, into a saucer or dish to receive surplus water. (3 2%^??o^?"?Q^3^^t?%"?^ "fits "^Q^^f^^ °<^1 fo'^t "^^^mi >0 " o o^^o G O'^^O oalw :r.y the legs, for ready removal. A zinc tray of perhaps four inches depth, is fitted inside the wire, which holds all the earth and water, (which all other baskets of this construction should have.) A small aperture for the withdrawal of the water, is fitted with a small stop cock, which should be hidden from sight. The plants kept in here, are to be packed in moss and will, with occasional watering, keep fresh and green upon the surface. Fig. 48. Figs. 50 and 51 are simple stands to be used for the same purpose, or can be adapted to the keeping of cut flowers. The top of No. 51, is covered with a small movable brass wire grating, the meshes being half an inch square, to sup- port the flowers, and keep them in an upright position. Fig. 50 is more convenient for preserving small plants, just in bloom, packed in with moss. This is, also, covered with wire work of brass. Fig. 52 is a plant table, made of any style of wood, the heavier the better. It is of considerable depth, and will hold a large quantity of earth, is also lined 70 WlJVJiOW GARDENING. with zinc or copper, and provided with a waste pipe. Around the top is a has ket work of brass, usually four to six inches in depth. The pots placed inside are supposed to be deep enough to reach only to the lower edge of the brass work, and covered with moss. Cut flowers, Dahlias, Pinks and Carnations, may be placed in here, half of the box having previously been filled with moss, and Fig. 50. the rest with sand, into which their stems are pressed. If the flowers are taste fully arranged according to harmony of colors, they will give a pretty effect, and the flowers will last several days. If it is possible, it will be well to provide all stands used for cut flowers, with glass shades which can be removed during the day time, but at nightfall be placed over them, both to secure fiora too cool temperature, and to protect against dust which comes from the morning's sweepings. Flowers will also keep fresh longer if preserved in moistened sand, than if kept in water alone. Fig. 51. Fig. 53. Fig. 48 is a plant stand for household use and ornament of more than cus- tomary spaciousness. It is constructed either in a full circular form or semi-circle to suit the fancy, and will usuall}'^ tit into the recess of any bow-window. It is builtof a wire frame, ])rincipally with wooden legs and supports. Has the usual zinc tray inside, well filled willi growing plants. Its size is about four and a WINDOW GARDENING 71 Pig. 55. Fig. 56. Fig. 57 72 WINDOW GARDENING. half feet in diameter, and stands two and a half feet from the floor. The illus- tration represents a gi ^ t variety of plants within, fully 50 varieties, from Roses Kig. 60. FiS- til. and Fuchsias, to Ferns, Colcus, Bulbs and Prmiulas It is a happy gathering of floral treasures. WINDOW GARDENING 73 Figs. 60 and 61 are two exquisite flower stands, very suitable for setting in the parlor window, just under the drooping lace curtains. Fig. 61 is constructed of iron, but has a basin above filled with sand, in which may be grown either bulb or cut flowers, placed in moist sand. Fig. GO is a lovely basket of rustic work, principally of the same ma- terial as that fiom wliich our cane cha.irs are conslructed. It is filled with ferns, drooping plants, Smilax, and lias a great variety of other plants too numerous to mention in detail. Such a basket can be easily obtained or constructed at anj' furni- ture store, and filled b}' any florist. Fig. 02 is of Terra Cotta, delicately moulded in the form of a vase rather than a plant stand, and filled with a profusion of charming plants from Tulip to Achyranthus, and Snow Drop to Fuchsia. Every one who wishes to learn the best plants for such purposes will find full desciiptions in Part Two. Figs. 53 to 59 need little explana- tion. Everj^ one has necessity for some plant stands for the pots before jfip 62. the window. All these designs are constructed of iron or made of wire and in countless patterns and devices. The cost is but very moderate, ranging from §5.00 to §25 .00. All are easily movable and li";ht. Pig. 63. 74 WINDOW GARDENING. Fig. 64. WINDOW GARDENINO. /O Uruaiueutal Pailur iStaud. Conservatories and Greenhouses. These are costly and mainly afforded only by the wealthy. As an ornament of architectural value, no villa is complete without them, and even the owner of the city mansion does not seem well satisfied till he has added one of these elegancies to assist the look and feeling of taste. Usually they are quite costly, and both interior and exterior are highly decora- ted, and as objects of effect on the lawn, or among the shrubbeiy, they are worth all their value in their embellishment of rural art. Still, even the person of moderate purse, may have one not very showy, yet very convenient, and well adapted to this purpose, viz: The keeping of plants in larger quantities than the ordinary space of the window, or parlor garden, and also in a better and more successful atmosphere than that of the living room. It would take a volume alone to point out all technical details necessary to any one about to build one. For an extensive design, the advice of a horticul- tural architect is indispensable, but for home purposes, a design such as any car- penter can erect is seen in one of our succeeding plans. Conservatories and green-houses are also somewhat distinct in their uses. The one is mainly devoted to ornamental purposes, and the exhibition of plants in full beauty of growth and bloom, while in the humbler green-house, propagating boxes are the chief furniture used by the gardener, for the produc- tion and forcing of his young plants. Still either term is appropriate, and the term greenhouse includes both. Costly conservatories are built of iron and glass, more moderate ones of wood and glass. In building them, due heed must be given to ventilation. If in small home conservatories, they are not well heated, it would be well to have heavy out side shutters, so as to be rolled down at night, or double window panes of glass* usually a Hue from the furnace which warms the house will, in ir.ost lati tudes, give sufficient warmth, provided the furnace will keep up a uniform degree all night. This, after all, is not regular in large conservatories ; and then the only satisfactory mode of heating is by pipes of hot water from a furnace speci ally constructed for the purpose. / wTj\dot\'- gardening. If there is danger of frost, and it is feared that the heating arrangements are not sufficient, turn all the heat of the furnace into the conservatory. Yet there is on tlie otiier hand considerable trouble from having too much heat or light in the evening, especially if the conservatory is entered immediately from the draw- ing room. Houses that are warmed bj' water pipes, branches of which are allowed to run through the conservator}', not only keep up a more steady heat, but afford con- siderable moisture to the atmosphere, and are of decided advantage. Every Autuum, apply a coat of paint, not only to render it fresh and clear, but to till up all hiding places for insects, and clear them out if perchance they have obtained possession, and in September early, put the pots and plants in their proper places. It is not desirable that tliey should remain out later than that. Fis;. 66. Ki;;. fiT. Fig. 68. Fig. 69. For hanging pots up against the side of the house or wall, the Jloreteen is a con- venient little utensil, constructedof adouble iron hoop, bent in the middle at an angle of 90° and reversible. Cost is very tritling and made by any blacksmith. AVhen filling your house with plants, clean the pots well, and turn out the balls of earth to see that the roots have sufficient room, and are in a healthy state. It is well, also, to scrajjc away the surface soil, and supply fresh compost. Give your plants plenty of room, not crowding too thicklj^ allowing free circu- lation of the air, for then it is easier to keep them perfectly clean and healthy. Heliotropes, V^erbenas, Geraniums, and indeed all herbaceous plants should be placed as near the glass as possible, as they require much sunlight, while varie- gated leaved plants Mignionette, Camellias, Primulas, &c., will not flourish luxuri- antly, if the hot sun shines on them at noon day. Fig. 70 is a design of a small home conservatory attached to the side of a vil- lage residence and entered from the parlor. Its length is about eighteen feet and width twelve to fifteen, affording all necessary room for a good home plant con- servatory. Such a house is heated either by a flue from the furnace, supposed to be placed in the basement of the house, or there may be a stove placed in depi-ession of the floor at one end of the conservator3',an(l with pipes running from a drum length way each side to the other end, and returning to it again, may heat the room sufficiently ; but there would be nothing to prevent a low temperature at night, unless some one could see that the fire was kept steadily burning. The most WINDOW GARDENING. 79 steady heat would come from the flue of the same furnace which heats the house. There are stands running around each side of the conservatory and a large square one in the middle. The cost made b}'' any carpenter, if constructed of wood, will be from $250 to $400, and if he lias taste may be richly decorated and painted for that sum. A gooti conservatory could not well be built for a less price. For a more elegant design still, we commend Fig. No. 65 of a beautiful form of architecture, lofty enough to admit of pa'ms or tall ferns; large enough for abundance of fresh air, not close or stifling, and of a character highly ornamental for any situation. It is constructed of iron, yet nothing prevents it from being made of wood. The glass is in long lengths corresponding to the general style of construction. Ventilators in the top are easily opened or closed by pulleys. Fijj. "0. — A Village House with Small Conservatory. There is a door for entering to the drawing room, also, one opening upon the lawn, with ornamental flower beds laid out along its side; it forms a design of rare and pleasing taste. For out door plant houses separated from the dwelling we show designs of two styles. Fig. 73 is still more arti.stic than the other, elevated upon a parterre embank ment and surrounded with evidences of garden embellishments. This, also, is of 80 W'JjXD 0\V GA RDENING. iron, still it may be constructed of wood ; is about twenty feet wide and from forty to tifty feet long; cost not less than ^5,000. Most of the green houses in this country are now built upon the plan of low curved roofs, which allurd great economy of space and heat, j'ct we believe variety and taste will admit the use of other styles. Such a one as this is a novelty in this country. Fig. 71. — Interior of tUeGoveruiueiit Coiiseiviitory at Washingtou, D. C. Rarely have we seen any thing like it, presenting as it does a decided look oj richness and elegance in the rural grounds of any wealthy villa proprietor. It is 'i.'orth ado[)tion. WnXDOW GARDENING- 81 Fig. 72 is intended purely for ornamental purposes suitable for the grounds of those of humbler means than they who can afford such rich designs as our last. It is a straight roofed span conservatory with cast iron fronts; sides about four feet six inches high with top and bottom ventilation, glazed with twenty-six ounce sheet glass, enamel painted throughout with ornamental finish, crestings, &c. This style of conservatory is set upon a foundation of white stone or granite, which gives a fine contrast with the green and shrubbery. In general the handsomest, lightest, strongest and most serviceable conservato- ries are constructed of iion frames, yet few or none are made in this country and no one offers them as a specialty. We find nearly all the best styles and designs of this character offered only by English horticultural manufacturers. In England, nearly every one has either its Window Garden or its green house, and scarcely any family of intelligence but knows something of culture and prop- agation of indoor plants. Fig. 72. — A Small Greenhouse. Here we love these delicate treasures dearly and our taste is rapidly developing in tliis branch of rural pleasures, yet the green house is still to many a mystery^ and seems an enormous expense. If good and suitable designs could be built for $100 to $500, their number would be quadrupled every year, and their general u.se be considered a desirable fashion. An important consideration in the management of greenhouses is an abundance of light. It is quite essential that tiie conservatory should be placed on the sunny side of the house, and that its windows or door should open into the parlor or dining-room, and, if possible, avoid planting trees too near to cover it with their shade. If the location is southwestern or northerly, much more heat will be required ; and both for economy and enjoyment, only one position is desirable, and that is southerly. 82 WIND OW GA KDEXING - WINDOW GARDENING. 83 Ventilation snould be arranged so that the air will circulate over the tops of plants, and not upon the suiface of the pots. The slope of the roof should be at an angle of 45°, as this has been proved to af- ford the greatest amount of heat from the sun's rays. A low staging upon which the pots are to be placed, should run all around the conservatory, and if it joins the wall, climbing vines may be planted which will clamber over it, or brackets may be put up, which will hold pots of drooping plants. If tastefully constructed, the floor should be made of tiles with pretty patterns, and even various plant boxes may be made of them. The plants would flourish better if they were sunk in beds of sand, mould or moss, instead of separate pots upon a staging. A theimometer is needed in every green-house, in order to regulate the tem- perature, and it should hang where it cannot be affected by the rays of the sun. The temperature should not exceed 66° by day, nor fall below 45° at night. Watering. — Water the plants as soon as the ball of roots begins to dry. This will be visible on the surface, or by knocking against the pot. If a full, deep sound is heard, there is sufficient water; if a clear, hollow sound, water is needed. All plants of a rapid growth, luxuriant leaves, and masses of flow- ers, require more watering than others of a delicate habit. Ferns and tropical plants must have plenty of water; succulent plants require less water. Watering may be done by a sprinkler or syringe, and care must be taken to give water to the soil and roots, as well as to the leaves, which, if watered from overhead, may often shed it and prevent any from reaching the pots. Apply the water either at night, or so early in the morning that the heat of the sun will not injure the plants. Let the water stand or drip awhile before wip- ing up, permitting the moisture to permeate the atmosphere ; after two or three hours the remaining water can be cleared away. Steps or a ladder are necessary also, to use in removing plants from the stag- ing, and also to assist in watering. Standing upon them a person with a water- ing pot can produce a miniature rain, which will tend to keep away all insects, and also wash the leaves effectually. Once a week give in your waterings a stimulant such as has been mentioned in previous chapters. The plants should also be frequently turned around so as to keep them in good .shape, and by frequent changing of position all have a chance at the best places. All the directions minutely given in former chapters as to culture, propagation, potting, repotting, will apply as well to conservatories as to ordinary window gardening. Plants. For the greater convenience and accommodation of private citizens, lovers of plants, or, perhaps, not well instructed gardeners, we give a list of decorative plants for greenhouses and conservatories, which are distinguished by masses of flowers, fine leaves, interesting habits, and easy cultivation. We do not use for 84 WINDOW GARDENING. this list any catalogues of nurserymen, nor do we make a collection from books or advertisements. We have carefully selected only such plants as are recom- mended by long experience in cultivating plants, and thorough botanical knowl- edge. Every plant which this list contains is for sale in this country. Avoid an unfit composition of every possible or heterogeneous plants ; the effect will be very poor. For instance, tropical plants do not mix well with plants taken from colder climates. Plants with expanded branches or like hab- its, are suitable mainly for standards, for vases, stands, etc. Plants of a fine and graceful habit should have a free and light position. Put Camellias, Azaleas, Bododendrons, Magnolia grandiflora, Viburnum tinus, Eu- genia australis, etc., as soon as they leave off blooming in the background, and move in the front row the following : Acacias, Polygala, Metrosideros, Leptos- permum, Franciscea, Melaleuca, Edwardsia microphj/lla, Diosma, and Erica. For groups of plants which have a tropical character, place so that they may show well: Begonia, Ferns, Lycopodia, Amaryllis, Eucharis, Pepero- jtiias, besides all plants with variegated leaves or thick foliage. For the ba.ckground may be mentioned : Ficus elastica, Cooperi australis, Gardenia; Fortuni, Musa, Heliconia, Bambusa, Eugenia lambos, Justicia carnea, cris- tata, Porteana, speciosa, etc. He who prefers succulent plants, and intends to keep his greenhouse filled with them, will not have much difficulty in arranging them, as they can be easily put in little groups, according to size and habit. I. List op Plants for a small Conservatory, Greenhouse, or Flower- Parlor, which is frequently visited by the family or visitors. The temperature ot the house is to be temperate at night ; in the day time thermometer may go up a little higher, as this will be the case when the sun is out. The situation of the greenhouse may be in a southern, eastern, or western direction. a. Plants for Standards, Centre of Groups, Stands, Columns, etc.: Araiccaria excelsa, imbricata, Brasiliensis ; Aralia leptophylla, Sieboldii papyrifera ; Chamcernps excelsa, humilis, tomentosa, and stauracantha. Rhapis flabelliformis ; Sabal minor, Seaforthia elegans, Chamcedorea lunata, Schiedeana, gracilis, desmoncoides : Latania borbonica ; Corypha australis : Draccena draco, Brasiliensis, terminalis,ferrea, Cooperi, stricta, rubra, congesta, australis, indivisa, and Veitchii ; Yucca gloriosa, aloifolia fol. var, flaccida, and quadricolor; Uhdea pinnatifida, Senecio Giesbrechtii, Melianthus major; Sola- rium Warscewitzii; Alocasia cucullata, odorata, (^arborea,") maororrhiza fol. vai Caladium cupreum, (^porphyroneurum,) pictum. b. Plants for Decoration in General : Azalea indica, best new varieties ; Camelias, best imbricate varieties ; Bhodo- dendra, arborea, and hybrida ; Acalyplia tricolor; Andromeda floribunda : Trimalium fragrans ; Leucopogon Cunninghami; Allamanda neriifolia ; Aph elandra aurantiaca, pulclierrima carnea^ superba, Porteana cristata, Leopoldii ; Justicia speciosa ; Buellia varians ; Eranthemum pulchMlum, Coopei'i, tubercu WINDOW GARDENING. g5 latum ; Ardisia crenulata, Brexia Madagascariensis , chrysophylla, serrata ; Brugmansia sanguinea, floribunda; Comaclinium ianthinum; Croton pictum, rariegatum; Cyperus alternifoliusf Panicum pUcatum, fol. var.; Curculigo recurvata; Aspidistra lurida, fol. var. (^Plectogynce) ; Eucharis Candida; Var- lota purpurea; Amaryllis vittata varietas; Ficus elastica, Cooperi and austra- lis; Franciscea latifoUa, eximia, hydrangaforviis; Mnranta sanguinea, ze- brina, vittata; Gardenia citriodora, radicans, Fortuni and florida grandi- flora; Mahernia odorata; Hibiscus rosa Sinensis var., double kinds, Cooperi, splendens; Inga pulcherrima; Edwardsia micrtiphylla; Jasminum Sambac, Duchesse d^ Orleans, gracile; Lasiandra, splendens, macrantha; PsidiumCatt- leyanum; Magnolia fuscata; Olea fragrans, ilicifolia; Myoporum parvifolium, crystallinum; Eriostemon buxifolius, scabrum, neriifolium, intermedium; Medinilla magnifica; Meyenia erecta; Plumbago ccerulea; Calla .^thiopica minor ; Tecoma Capensis ; Solanum capsicum, fol. var. ; Vinca rosea and rosea alba; Abutilon Thompsonii, veyiosiim floribundum, vexillarum, fol. var.; Acacia armata, paradoxa, dealbata, lophanta, pulchella magna, floribunda, mela- noxylon, glaucescens, mollisssima, lineata verticillata, vestita; Agapanthus um- bellatus; Bambusa Fortunei var ; Buuvardia leiantha, splendens, jasminoides; Cassia floribunda; Centaurea candidissima, plumosa, gymnocarpa; Cestrum aurantiacum; lochroma tubulosa, Warcsewitzii ; Linum trigynum; Chorozema ilicifolia, varia; Citrus sinensis, myrtifolius, aurantium, nuhilis (Mandarin^; Clethra arborea; Sparmannia Africana; Clivia nobilis; Cyclamen persicum, Coum,repandum; Cytisus Atleyamus,racemosus; Genista canariensis; Daphne indica rubra; Diosma alba, ambigua, ciliata; Echeveria secunda glauca, metal- lica grandiflora, sanguinea, racemosa, gibbiflora; Cotyledon cristatum, orbicu lare, rhomboideum: Crassula coccinea, v&r. kinds; Rochea falcata; Sempervi- vum arboreum fol. var., tabulceforme, canariense, orbicum; Sedum fabaria, tele- phiiimfol.var. Sieboldii variegata, dasyphyllum; Mesembryanthemum spectabile, coccineum, aureum, deltoideum, echinatum; Kleinia repens, ficoidea; Eugenia australis; Habrothamnus elegans, fascicularis ; Indigofera austi-alis, decora; Laurics Camphor a; Melaleuca alba, hypericifolia, decussata, ericcefolia, foliosa, luddula, squarrosa, thymifolia, ovata, linearifolia, speciosa; Phormium tenax; Pittosporum Tobira; Polygala Dalmaysiana, grandis, speciosa,; Rhododendron Gibsonii, jasminifloi'um. Princess Royale, Veitchtanum; Rhopala corcovadensis, Schizostylis coccinea; Statice arborea, Halfordii, macrophylla; Veronica An- dersoni, imperialis, salicifolia, speciosa floribunda; Libonia floribunda. Centra - denia floribunda, grandifoUa ; Clerodendron infortunatum, fallax, Balfouri, Kaempferi; Coleus, var. kinds ; Heliotropium, var kinds ; Poinsettia pulcher- rima; Nandina domestica; Rogiera cor data; Rondeletia speciosa; Russelia jun- cea; Sanchezia nobilis; Scutellaria mociniana; Solandra grandiflora; Aloe flmbriata, Taberncemontana coronaria fl. pi., Crowea saligna; Diplacus puni- ceus floribundus ; Farfugium grande; Ligularia Kaempferi fol. var. ; Callis- temon semper florens ; Begonia ricinifolia, ricinifolia maculata, heracleifolia, ma- crophylla, Huegelii, Hernan diaefolia, grandis, Dregei, peltata, Peai'cei, manicata. 86 WINDOW GARDENIXG. hydrocotyledes^Warszewitzii, coccinea, sanguinea, incarnata, odoratn, argyr tigma, stigmosa, smaragdina, Bex var. hyhrides, Sedenii, Weltoniensis,Bolivi- ensis. c. Plants for Hanging Baskets, Flower Stands, Lamps and Can- soles, ETC.: Leucophyta Brotvnii, Vinca major fol. var.; Mesembryanthemum cordifolium fol.var.; Crassula spathulatrr; Sedumcarneum variegatum ; Cerastium tomcn- tosu7n, Biebersteinii ; Tropccolum majus fl.pl.; Clematis azurea grandiflora, lanuginosa, Jackmanni ; Ficus stipularis (^repens") ; Gelsemium nitidum ; JEs- chinanthtis zebrinus, grandiflorus ; Tradescantia zebrina, Warscewitzii ; Saxi- fraga sarmentosa, Sieboldii fol. var.; Clorophyton Sfernbergianum ; Lonicera hrachipoda aureo-reticulata ; Solanum jasminoides ; Isolepis elegans ; l^ra- garia indica ; Euonymus radicans ; Ajuga reptans fol. var. ; Glechoma hede- racea fol. var. ; and var. species of Selaginella. d. Plants for Festoons, Columns, and for Decorating Walls, etc. Passiflora actinea, crerulea, racemosa, edulis, insignis, quadrangularis, herme- sina, Loiidoni, trifasciatd, princeps ; Tacsonia splendens, Van Volxemii ; Rhyn- chospermutn jasminoides, obtusifolium variegatiim ; Cobcea scandens fol. var; Akebia quinata ; Stcphnnotis floribunda ; Pilogyne suavis ; Bignonia venusta, speciosa, aiistralis, Latrobea ; Tecoma jasminoides rosea; Mandevillea suaveo- lens ; Pliaseolus Caracalla ; Physianthus albeaa; Thunbergia laurifolia, gran, diflora ; Mikania scandens QSenecio micanoides) ; Tropeeoliim pentaphyllum, tricolorum, speciosum ; Pharbitis Learii, ficifolia, insignis, palmata ; Mauran- dia ; Lophospermum ; lihodochyton volubile. e. Ferns for General Decoration which require a moderate Tem- perature : AcrosUchum aldcorne (Platycerum^ ; Adiantum tenerum, concinnwn, cunea- tum, formosum, pubescens, trapeziformc ; Anemia villosa ; Aspidium molle, violaseens, Kaulfussia ; Aspleniiim flabellifolium, palmatum ; Blechnum aus- trale, Brasiliense ; Cyathea medullaris, australis ; Cyrtomium falcatum ; Da- vallia Canariensis ; pixidata ; Dicksonia australis, antarctica, umbrosa ; Doo- dia caudata ; Doryopteris palmata ; Polypodium aureum ; Gymnogramma chrysopJiylla, Peruviana ; Lastrcea elegans ; Lomaria gibba, latifoUa ; Nephro- lepis exaltata, tuberosa ; Oleandra neriifolia; Pteris, longifolia, serrulata striata. TT. — Plakts for Greenhouses, Conservatories and Flower Saloons, which require during the winter only a low temperature, or have a northern exposure : a. Plants for the general decoration . Hhododendron hybridum, var. kinds ; Azalea Indica, var. kinds ; Azalea amoena ; Kalmia latifolia ; Photiuia serrulata; Aucuba Japonica, new var.; wry now gardening. g7 riex aquifolium, fol. var. ; Mespihis pyracantha ; Eucalyptus, var. kinds ; An- dromeda florihunda ; Kanftnridra canaliculata, speciosa, pulverulenta, etc. ; Erica arhorea, Mediterranean hihernica, strigosa, herbacea, muJtiJlora ; Crypto meria Japonica, elegans, araucaroides ; Cedrus argentea {Africana") ; Cupres^ sus sempervirens, funehris ; (Thuja) Biota filiformis ; Betinospora, var. kinds ; Fagus antarctica, Cnnninghami ; Laurus regalis, nohilis ; Nerium oleander; OleaEuropcea ; Viburnum tin us, macrocephalum,suspensus ; Magnolia grandi- flora ; Bambusa Metal:c, falcata ; Polygala rhamcebuxis ; Bhuscus andro- gynus, racemosus, hypoglosftum, hypophyllum, aculeatus ; Ahelia floribunda ; Arbutus unedo, andrachne ; Podocarpus elongafus, neriifolius, latifolius, elegans; Berberis Dariiinii, dealhata, Fortunei, ilicifolia, macr ophylla, Japonica : Buddlea globosa ; Ceanothus azureus : Melia Azedarach, Pistacia lentiscus ; Vi- tex agnus-castus ; Cerasus lauro cerasus ; Ceratonia siliqua ; Cistus roseus', formosus, ladaniferus, Lusitanicus, grandiflorus ; Leicesteria formosa ; Coro- nilla glauca, fol. var ; Daphne Fortunei, laureola, alpina, collina, cneorum ; Eleengnus rejlexa ; Escallonia floribunda, grandiflora ; Eurya Japonica, fol var.; SMmmia Jap>onica ; OphiopogonJaponicus, spicatum, Jaburan; Euony- mus Japonicus, fol. var.; Juniperus Bermudiana ; Bliamnus alatertius, fol.var. ; Phormium tenax ; Genista iinctoria, fl. pi. ; Helianthemum, var. kinds ; Hype- ricum calycinum ; Jasminum revolutum, lucidtim, Wallichianum ; Ligustrum lucidum, fol. var.., Japonicum, fol. var. ; Mahonia Japonica ; Myrica Califor- ntca ; Osmanthus fimbriatus ; Ulex Europcea ; Ywcca and .4 ^rare, var. kinds ; Pinus lanceolatus ; Pernettya floribunda ; Stuartia pentagyna ; Libocedrus Chi- lensse, nuciferus, Californicus ; 3Iagnolia conspicua. b. The following Plants mat serve for heightening the effect of Flowers in the Winter-time and Spring : Polygonatum stellatum, verticillatum, multiflorum ; Doronicum Caucasicum , Adonis ve^'nalis, Dicentra spectabilis, Corydalis aurea, nobilis ; Lindelophia spectabilis ; Omphalodes verna ; Cyclamen Europceum ; Anthericum Liliago . Dodecatheon Meadia, Jeffreyi; Dianthus, var. kinds; Nardosmia fragranSy (Tussilago) ; Funkia, fol. var.; Gentiana acaulis ,- Primula cortusoides ; Hel- leborus niger ; Hepatica triloba, angulosa ; Iberis sempervirens ; Iris, var. kinds ; Hyacinths ; Narcissus ; Crocus ; Tulips ; Muscari ; Galanthus ; Colchicum ; Leucojum vernum ; Trillium grandiflorum ,- Orobus vernus ; PcBonia tenuifolia ; PulmonariaVirginica, saccharata ; BamondiaPyrenaica ; Erinus alpinus ; Solda- nelJa alpina, minima; Bhexia Virginica ; Sanguinaria Canadensis ; Saxifraga ligulata, Sibirica, crassifolia, cordifolia; Spigelia Marylandica ; Primula acau- lis, fl,. pi. ; Viola, var. kinds ; Lychnis Haageana, Sieboldii. e. Climbing and Hanging Plants fob a house with a low tempkea TURE : Adlumia cirrhosa ; Tropaolum, pentaphyllwn ; Akebia quinata ; Various kinds of Clematis; Ampelopsis Veitchii , Bignonia capreolata ; Hedera (Ivy) var 88 WINDOW GARDENINO kinds ; Lonicera Japonica, grata, semper fllor ens, hrachijpoda aureo-reticulata, Cissus antarctica ; Rubus rosceflorus, fl. pi. ; Rosa sempervivens, Banksia, Thea, Noisette, muUiflora, Fortunei ; Gaultheria procumbens ; Vinca minor, var. kinds ; Phlox verna, repens, setacea, Lysiinachia iiummularia ; Ltnnea ho- realis. d. Ferns which can have a low temperature : Adiantum capillus Veneris, pedatum ; Asplenium fontanum, marinum, ruta- imiraria, viride ; Atliyrium jilix-fcemina, flexuosum., laciniatum, plumosum ; Bleehnum boreale (pccidentale), spicant (^Lomaria') ; Cystopteris bulbifera ; OnO' clea sensibilis ; Lastrcea filix-mas, rigida, dilatata, Goldiana ; Lomaria Magel' lanica, alpina ; Osmunda regalis, cinnamomea ; Polypodium vulgare, alpestre ' Polystichium acideatum, angulare, acrosticJioides ; Scolopendrium officinarum (jculgare) ; StruthioptcrisOermanica ; Cyrtomium falcatum. e. Finally, we add a small list of Orchids, or air-plants, for amateurs, who may cultivate them in a green house or flower saloon of a moderate temperature. The following species are free bloomers, not very tender, and easily cultivated : Dendrobium nobile ; Cattleya Mossioe, labiata, Skinneri, guttata, Perrinii , Laelia majalis, autumnalis, superbiens ; Calanthe veratrifolia, vestita rosea; Cypripedium barbatum, insigne, venustum ; Ejndendrum ciliare, fragrans ; Gongora maculata ; Maxillaria temiifolia, Harrissonice, picta ; Oncidium pu- pilio, roseum, picturatum, ampliatum, flexuosum, luridum ; Odontoglossum grande, pulchelliim, Uro-Skinneri, Insleayi ; Lycaste aromatica, Deppii, Skin- neri ; Stanhopea tigrina, saccata, oculata,gitttidata, insignis ; Schomburgkia crispa ; Acineta Humboldtii, longiscarpa ; Zygopetalum Mackayi, crinitum , Phaius grandifolius (JBletia Tankervillice, Limodoruni) ; Peristeria alata ; Mil- tonia Candida ; Coelogyne cristata, Trichopilia tortiUs; Cymbidium aloifolium, cnsifolium; Bletia hyacinthina. PART II. PLANTS FOR WINDOW GARDENS Kg. 1.— Desigu for Ornamental Hanglaf Basnet. Hanging Baskets. TTansing Baskets form our simplest and also cheapest stylo of window orna- ment. They need very little care, their demands are not very exacting, and the chances of failure are very much less than plants of more sensitive nature, fit only for careful pot culture. The Hanging Basket is supposed to be a modern invention, or, at any rate, not very popularly used until late times ; hence, it strikes us with feelings of curiosity to learn that, in the observance of the Jewish rural festivals hundreds of years ago, plants and cut flowers were taste fully arranged, placed in vases, and suspended from the branches forming tlie roof of the leaf-covered tabernacle. This was made of the branches of the oak, cedar, palm, and willow, so cut as to prevent them from withering for seven days, while the Passover was celebrated. The directions for culture are very simple : Choose as pots or baskets clay bowls of porous ware, which may be set inside either a wire or wooden frame, or a glazed vessel. In non-porous pots or vessels, plants will not grow to per- fection ; there is usually no outlet or drainage for the surplus moisture to escape, and all side ventilation or aeration is cut off. Hence, the soil becomes sodden, and the roots are liable to decay. After you have provided your has kets, then fill the bottom to the depth of an inch or two with small bits of charcoal, for the triple purpose of drainage, purification, and as a fertilizer. Charcoal dust is also desirable to mix with the soil. A coarse sponge might be put in, if the vessel is deep, to drink up the surpUs moisture, and yet keep the soil moist by giving it out again v.'hen dry. You do not need a very rich soil ; good garden soil is well enough ; because, if too rich, your plants will grow too rapidly for grace and beauty, and run too much to stem. Climbing or drooping vines may run as much as they please ; the more freely the better, as it is the very thing desired; but standard plants in baskets must not be stimulated much; they would outgrow their space. Sand is a needed ingredient; at least one third the soil should be composed of '' scouring sand." Mix it well with dark loam and leaf mould. The soil from around pine trees is most excellent for your baskets ; in fact, there is none better. If the baskets become very dry from the excessive heat of the sun, it is best to place them in a dish of water for half an hour. Thus treated, the roots suck up a copious supply, and need not receive any more for two or three days. 92 TMNDOW GAIiDENING Plants do not thrive luxuriantly in baskets, year after j'car, with soil or position unchanged ; hence, it is well to renew them every autumn, for healthier plants will be the result. In the summer time, when the rooms are closed against sun and flies, there is not light enough to keep the plants healthy, and then they should be hung in the shade of the porch or piazza, or under the trees. Hanging Baskets, provided with the charcoal and the sponge in the bottom, need not have a hole for drainage, for these will supply their place. Plants of very watery tissues, usually grown in the neighborhood of ponds or woodland streams, will do best in soil transplanted from such location; but ordi- nary leaf mould will answer for almost everything. It is a good plan to keep a good reserve supply of soil at hand in a heap, ready at any time you may desire to make a new basket, fill a new pot, or change the plants in either. When you are potting the plants into any vessel, press the soil well down around the plants, and never use wet soil ; let it be well dried and friable Watering should be carefully administered, for few know what to give their plants, how to give, or when. An hour's neglect or forgetfulness may blight the entire beauty of your basket ; or, again, an overflooding in a hot, dry room may cause them to mould. Whenever they are watered the whole of the soil in the pot should be weL ^ wetted, and the frequency of watering depends upon the temperature of the air ; the warmer the room the more frequently will they need it. Usually once a day, in the early morning or previous evening, is sufficient, if the thermometer measures 45° to G5°; if over that, and averaging 60° to 80°, twice a day, water- ing moderately, will be sufficient. In winter time do not apply cold water ; either use it of same degree as that of the room, or bring your dish of water in the room and let it stand an hour or two before applying. More damage than a little is done by applying too cool water, giving the tender plant a severe chill. If the surface soil cakes any, break it up frequently, and keep a good watch for insects. Construction The devices for making hanging baskets are nearly endless. Our florists oflfer a great variety of patlei-ns ; our wiie manufacturers offer some pretty designs, and our pottery and tile merchants have equally attractive models of elegance and beauty. Choose anything you like, only we recommend to you not to get them 100 small. We would select nothing less than eleven or twelve inches in diameter, and six inches deep. Let the soil be filled in even with the edge of the rim, and then rise toward the centre like a small mound. If there are but one or two large plants in the basket, cover the surface of the soil with moss, which will retain the moisture in the soil, needing watering only at occasional intervals ; the moss from trees is not as desirable as that usually found growing WINDOW GARDENINa. 93 Wj. 2. — Trailing Morning Glory— Convolvulus Mauritanlcmi. 04 WINDOW GARDENING. on the ground in some low, moist place, near a swamp. Pots of lava, or non porous material, without a hole at tlie bottom for drainage, must be used only for holding other and more porous pots inside, the insterslices being filled with moist moss. Veiy pretty wire baskets are found at some of our stores ; and these, being open, must be tilled with moss first, and then a little soil in the cen- tre, and the plants added afterwards. Large ?;ea shells, (nautilus or conch,) will hold soil enough to support rrailers, and are usually very tasteful window ornaments. One of the prettiest baskets ever seen was made from a singe sea shell, quite large. Holes were bored through the edge to fasten cords to hang it by j the interior of the shell was WIND O U' GAIiDEXING . 95 filled with light, rich soil, and Li/copodiums and Lo- belias were planted in it- The rind of the gourd, and of the scallop squash, make elegant baskets for drooping plants. Cocoanut sliells, whether in their natural state or embellished, with rustic work around, are ac- ceptable. Home-made baskets of wooden bowls, (such as we use in our kitchens,) are very common and desirable. Four or live holes should be bored with a gim blet in the bottom or the sides of the bowl. The best sizes are 12 to 16 inches in diameter, and if there are no rustic arm supports, there must be several holes bored around the ed e, in which to fasten the cords it is supported by — three are enough. To ornament tlic outside of the bowl, choose the gray and wliite lichens of Llie woods, fasten them on with glue, or nail on with small brads. If the stiff mosses from the pine woods are used, they can be wet with water, which renders them pliable, and fastened on with thread copper wire, nailing nails on the inner edge of the bowl and at the bottom, around which to twist the wires. The contrast between the gray and white moss, and the rich emerald or brightly variegated vines, is very beautiful. Such a basket, if planted with nothing more than the Tradescantia zebrina, and the green leaved variety of the same plant, Ttiingled with soft hanging grasses, or the bright green of the Moneyivort, would be very pleasing. City residents, of course, will not desire to make their own baskets, but prefer to get them tilled from the most convenient florist. We intro- tluce several very pretty designs, which deserve to be coi)ied. Fig. 1, is a desisjn for a hanging basket of more than usual elegance, and is a specimen out of many favorite styles prevalent among the well-to-do classes o. Berlin, Germany. The box is made of handsomely carved wood, the inside lined with zinc or clay; the basin is filled with earth, and in it are planted Begonias, Caladiums, Coleus, Geraniums, Ivy, Ornamental Grasses, Calla Lil3% and quite A variety of other flowers The size is about two feet wide by three and a half 96 WIiWOW GARDENING. feet long. Worsted cords and tassels help out the richness of the frames, and the biilliant hues of the foliage of the plants within. Fevr or no hanging baskets we have seen can equal this for artistic taste. Fig. 2, is an illustration of a large, deep basket, filled with a dense growth of the Convolvulus Mauritanicus . This is a highly ornamental plant, of droop- ing, half shrubby character, slender habit, with a profusion of elegant light blue blossoms, upward of an inch in width, forming an admirable plant for suspended vases or baskets. It continues long in bloom, and its porcelain blue blossoms are conspicuously beautiful. Fig. 5.— Group of Poms. Fig. 3, is a picture of the Convolvulus drooping over tlie sitles of a rustic carved hanging basket. The outside framewoik is wood, but contains a clay bowl sitting neatly within. Tlie Convolvulus family afford many very desirable plants for baskets of this description. One lady cultivator goes so far as to say that the common Morning Glory is one of the most .satisfactory plants she ever cultivated. "The vine, by house culture, becomes delicate in form, and is very thrifty. The flowers, a little smaller than the Convolvulus tri-color, appear every morning, and remain until nearly nignt. Seeds planted in early spring, say March, will flourish and bloom in less than six weeks." This family generally FP/ATDOW GARDENING 97 are free bloomers, very showy, and have exceedingly handsome flowers, with rich colors. Fig. 4, is a sketch of a pretty wire basket, filled with Ivy and Ferns ; branches of the partridge vine hang over tiie sides of the basket ; the interior is filled with moss, and over them all peep out clusters of exquisite ferns. Tlie stems of the Ivy and the part- ridge vine are all stuck into bot- tles filled with water, and hid away here and there in the moss. The ferns had all been gathered from the woods, and then pressed out smooth and clean, and ar- ranged giacefully, their stems standing in the water of the bot- tles; the bottles are filled with water every two or three days. The Ivy has also grown from only two or three little slips stuck into the water, and has twined its arms around and above the cords of the basket, clear to the very top. Fig. 5, is a group of Ferns of great variety, gathered into a wire basket of neat and simple design. In the centre of the group is one of the Draccenas, having leaves of a brilliantly Fig. 6.— Flower Basket. shaded dark crimson — a class of plants always very handsome. Springing out of this is the Goniophlebium subauriculatum, with its long primate pendulous fronds ; the Cheilanthes spectabilis, which delights in moist- ure, warmth, and shade; other Fern.s, such as the Maiden's Hair, (Adiantum,) usually of large growth. The Athyrium, and many of the Spleenworts, (Asple- nium,) are introduced here to form one of the finest styles of natural Hanging Baskets we can suggest for imitation by our readers. Fig. 6, introduces a style of basket very suitable for bulbs. It is made of •wire, and the interior is lined with zinc. There is a small vessel beneath to hold drippings frcm the hole for drainage. Zinc vessels are not always perma- 7 OS WL\ DOW GAUD RNIXa neiit ; in time they corrode, and must be renewed. Clay or wood are preferable. The plants herein are several Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocuses, Lily of the Valley, &c. The directions for the starting of these bulbs and their culture has already been explained in the chapter on bulbs. Fig. 7. — Ornamental Hanging Baskets. Fig. 8, is a Conservatory Basket, of lava ware, made unusually deep. The plants herein placed are Dracaenas, Crotons, Indian Ferns, Niphobolus pertu- sus, and N. rupestris ; also the Variegated Panicum. Ivy droops over the sides. WINDOW GARDENING 99 Fig. 9, is an ornamental hanging pot of lava or Majolica ware, covered with droop- ing vines. The most popular favorites for drooping vines arc the Nasturtium, Tro- pgeolum, Convolvulus minor, Honeysuckle, Trailing Mesembryanthemuni. The cen- tre ma)'' also be occupied with low grow- ing plants, like the Verbena, Heliotrope, Petunias, Nemophilas, Lobelias, Mimu- lus, &c. Fig. 10 is a sketch of the Sedwn Sie- boldii, a plant of very easy growth, and does best when kept in the greenliouse or conservatory. The soil most suitable is light, yet rich. Say turfy loam, 1 part; rotten dung, 1 part; sand, 1 part; >!•;.«. brick broken small, 1 part. It should be always under glass exposed to the full daylight, and have abundance of water. It is naturally a trailer, and will droop gracefully over the outsides of the pot, and will bloom most profusely. It should be watered carefully, so that no water will get on the leaves. Give it fresh air frequently. The habit of growth of the Sedum Sieboldii is very peculiar. From one central crown or stool appear a num- ber of slender branches ; at regular intervals come the leaves in groups of three, and these continue to lengthen un- til in the month of August, when flower buds appear at the terminals of each branch. The average growth of good specimens is about one and a half feet long, and the flowers have a spread of nearly six inches. As described by Shir- ley Hibberd : " In every stage of growth the plant is a beau- tiful object, the leaves being Ki^. 9. slightly concave on the upper surface, and covered with a delicate glaucous bloom. The flower-buds appear a long time in advance of the flowers, but when at last these open in September, their lively, rosy, pink hue and symmet- rical disposition are remarkably beautiful, and contrast chastely and cheerfully with the peculiar tint of the leafage. After the blooms have faded the stems 100 WINDOW GARDEXIXG. die down, and are immediately succeeded by a new growth from the root, and thus, if encouraged by good culture, a specimen will become larger and larger every year, and may ultimately be grown to colossal dimensions. It is one of the easiest plants to grow, and its habit is remarkably distinct and elegant." Fig. 11 is a plant of the Variegated Ivy. This is both cheap, clean, needs little attention, grows rapidly, and is the most permanently attractive of all plants for the window. Were there no other plant than this in the window it might still be considered well furnished. Fig. 10.— Sediim Sieboldii. Fig. 12 is a sketch of the Saxifraga Fortunei Iricolor. Fig. 13 is a sketch of a bracket, with a wooden bowl, holding a plant of the Sedum Sieboldii trailing from it. This can be easily attached to the sides of the room, fastened to the centre of the window frame. It is very suitable for the Ivy either to trail from, or it may be placed at the bottom of the window, and the ▼ino trained upward along the window casing. IIome-Made Hanging BasJcets. Nearly every one appreciates best some basket made by their own handd WINDOW GABDENINO. 101 Usually only ordinary taste is re- quisite to contrive some very agree- able designs, and only a few hours' labor are needed. So we will give suggestions of how to make some Home-Made Hanging Baskets of handy and inexpensive materials. For trimming the outside of some wooden bowl the roots of the laurel are very suitable, also those of the briar rose, which grows so plenti- fully near the woodlands and in fence corners. They are very crooked and gnarled, but when thoroughly cleansed from soil they can be nailed upon these bowls in grotesque and picturesque forms. A coat of copal varnish laid over the M^hole will often make the basket possess as handsome an appearance as those for sale by any florist. The boughs and roots of the wild grape vine supply materials for this style of rustic ornamentation. Do not remove the bark unless it is very ragged, and then tear it away carefully, not taking more than is needful. By peeling in this way the stem will be vari-colored. If a darker hue than the natural wood IS preferred, take two ounces of gum asphaltum and dissolve it in half a pint of turpentine or coal oil. Apply the stain with a common paint brush, putting on two coats if it is not dark enough at first. A simple rustic basket may be made of three forked branches of any old tree, the more thickly bestudded with little branchlets, and the more gnarled and mossy, the better. Get those with drooping gray beard moss, if possible. The sticks should be less than an inch in diameter, and six or eight inches in length. Unite the three forks by their heads, winding them with very strong twine or pliable wire, and then, with the same material, fasten the branchlets here and there, to form a sort of lattice-work, and wind the gray moss over all fastenings. Then, in the same way, attach stout cord for handles. Set in this a common clay pot with its saucer, crowding around it plenty of moss, and you have a pretty thing complete. Some persons take the common wire baskets, and make an improvement by surrounding them with strips of pasteboard. This is completely covered by pasting or glueing upon it gray or green lichens, with a few bits of the creep- ing moss, and a little of the coral or red cup moss. If none of this last can be procured, heat red sealing-wax, and with it touch the rough edges of some of the lichens. Wire baskets are in general better, suited for the conservatory than the par 102 Wr^i'DOW GARDENI^'G lor, because they need a good watering two or three times a week, and will drip more or less corsiantly. A very queer Hang- ing Basket was made by a flower-lover after this fashion : A piece of board one foot long and eight inches wide was first selected, then around the edges was nailed a lath projecting about an inch above ; in each of the coiners was driven a nail, and by means of strings tied thereto the basket was hung up. In the bottom were scattered a row of stones of moderate size ; then they were covered with layer of earth; above this was another row of smaller stones, then a layer earth, then sand pebbles, and a final coating of earth over all, forming a mound in the centre. Here were planted very small rooted cuttings of trail- ng plants, such as the Morning Glory, which soon filled the basket to over- flowing. Two plants only will be sufficient. The Cypress vine will be liked for the purpose. Choose five or six plants. The Madeira vine is unexcelled for such a position. Erect plants should not be chosen, although Verbenas, Abronias, and Thunbergias are not objectionable. Where shells are used, they may be ornamented with different shades of moss, mixing the white mosses with the green as you glue them on. The sections of large pine cones will also ornament prettily. Tack them on with brads, boring each scale with a brad-awl, so as not to split them. Alter- nate the scales, and varnish the whole, and you will be quite satisfied with the efiect. It can be suspended with red or green curtain cord, fastened through holes, as before directed, with bows or rosettes at the top and sides. The cones of the dried burs of the Sweet Gum Tree, if strung together on wire or strong twine, as beads are arranged in fancy baskets, make a handsome basket, whose rustic appearance is very pleasing. The simplest and prettiest of all these constructions is that made from small sticks of oak, maple, beach, or other wood, cut in lengths of eight, ten, twelve, WLXDOW GARDENING. 103 or more inches, according to the size you desire. Tliey must be about an inch in diameter, and a hole should be bored with a gimblet an inch from the end of each stick. They are put together in log-house fashion, one stick lopping over the other, and a wire with a loop on the upper end is passed through the holes at each corner, and bent up on the under side. A piece of board an inch thick is then fastened to the sides for a bottom, and the spaces between the stickn should be filled up with moss. Small iron chains suspend such baskets, and rich soil from the woods is the best to grow the plants that will twine round the chains and wrenth them. Ribbons can be used if desired. We have seen more than fifty of tlicse baskets suspended from the roof of an orchid-house, and the effect was exquisitely beautiful. A cocoanut aflbrds a very pretty miniature basket. Leave the husk on, and Fig. 13. saw off about one-quarter of the nut; dig out the meat, and bore holes through three sides of it. The stem end is the part to be sawed off. Tie cords into the holes. There are many articles lying about every house that could do duty for hanging baskets. Worn out fly-covers can be lined with moss or cartridge paper, and when filled with soil and beautiful plants they produce as fine an effect as many a more picturesque affair. We saw one but recently covered with the golden flowers of the Moneywort, mingled with the bright blue of the Lobelia, and the Zebra-striped leaves of the Tradescantia, all growing luxuri- antly, and making a humble cottage window a picture of grace and beauty. Ox muzzles are within the reach of every country girl, and when painted green and lined with moss they form most desirable baskets to suspend from piazzas or trees. They will hang from the trees all winter, and in the spring th ]()4 WINDOW GARDENING. hardy vines, Moneywort and Partridge vine, (^Mitchella repens,') come forth in fresh beauty and gracefulness. Miniature baskets can be made of a goose or turkey's egg, that are exceed- ingly pretty and attractive. Select the largest size, make a hole with a needle at each end, and blow out the yolk and white. Then dip the egg into boiling water, and while it is hot cut it in the middle, a little at a time, for fear it will crack down too far. Use a pair of small, sharp sissors. For a covering and c rds to suspend it, take scarlet, green, or blue split zephyr worsted, and either net or crochet a cover. Use a fine mesh or needle, and make an ornamental scolloped edge around the top. Crochet cords, or twist them, of the zephyr, and hang the tiny baskets with them. Three baskets can be made and sewed together, with a cord attached to the edge of each shell. A different vine can be planted in each egg shell. Use a rich, but rather sandy soil, and the vines will grow luxuriantly. The same device can be suspended from the chandelier to hold cut flowers, or the chains can be omitted and the baskets be used as vases Boys or girls who possess any ingenuity can construct these pretty floral adornments in their leisure hours. Money is not always required for their man- ufacture, nor need those who live in the country apply to the florists for plants to fill them; for the fields and woods contain many twining vines that are very suitable for them. Almost anything will do for a basket — shells, horns, or any- thing that will hold earth, have been used for the purpose. Even turnips and carrots can be hollowed out and made to hold pretty little plants — so no one need be without these simple floial adornments for parlor or dining-room. Plants for Ilmtging Baskets. Our theme is now a more pleasing one, for how infinite, and yet indescribably beautiful, are some of the combinations of plants in baskets which we occasion- ally see. Take, however, from us one general word of advice : Do not crowd in too many plants of upright growth. Usually one erect plant of showy, striking character, should be used — say a Begonia or a bright flowering Geranium; then around this gather your plants, of great variety, but lower and more compact growth, and around the edge plant both your chmbers and your trailers. If your basket is to hang in a northern or eastern window, where the temperature is lower than any other exposure, you will have to choose such plants as the Lycopodiums, Periwinkle, and Moneywort. They will do well here, for they require less sunlight. An Ivy will do well anywhere, so you may consider this your safest plant. As we have mentioned before, it is not best to bring your plants immediately from the outdoors to the warm air of the living room. Do it gradually, by first bringing the basket, after it is filled, into a cool room with plenty of light, but not directly from the sun. Here let the plants get well started, and after two or three weeks you may bring the basket into the parlor or liviu'T room. M'INBOW GARDENING. 105 In making your choice of plants avoid the costliest favorites of the green- house ; i. e., it is better to take something which will thrive with ordinary cul- ture. Greenhouse plants need more care than the window-gardener can usually give. A healthy flowering Geranium is more popular with nine out of ten than a Camellia, and is in proportion as much easier to grow. A great trouble among amateurs is too gi'eat a fancy for seed-grown plants; i. e., they purcliase florists seeds, and aim to grow their own plants by sowing the seed in the basket. It is hardly necessary to say failure is the general rule, except in the case of a few climbing plants, which will grow well anywhere. If the amateur does not know enough about propagation to grow his own plants, it is much better to buy them already started from a good florist. The list of plants may be arranged in several very distinct dasses, as follows : 1. Climbing Vines — The Tropaeolum Lobhianum, flowers plentifully in winter, and its brilliant red flowers are very attractive. The Morning Glory will grow readily in a sunny window, and its flowers are " indeed a glory. A small vase can be used to plant the seeds, and it can be sus- pended with ribbons. The vine of the Sweet Potato is very graceful. Quite a good many who have admired a basket covered with its leaves have felt a little chagrined to find it was nothing after all but a Sweet Potato vine. The tubers can be sec into a glass .small eviough to keep the root three or four inches from the bottom. Fill the glass with water, and place it in a warm room ; give it two or thiee hours of sunshine each day, and in two or three weeks it will begin to grow. All through the winter it will continue to develop its glossy green leaves in profusion. The Discorea Bntataa is the best species for home culture. Among other climbing plants are Senecio scandens, (German Ivy,) a very free grower; Lonicera aurea rcticulatd, with fine yellow variegated foliage. There are no finer plants in geneial to be used than the Coboeas, Maurandias, Lophospermuins, and Tropajolum. Tiie Variegated Leaved Cobaja is a great favorite, either to dangle from a basket or clothe a troliis. For Droopinfi or TraiJivg Vlanis the list is quite extensive. Lysimachia. or Moneywort — old, and hardly yet superseded. Saxifragas, Sednms, Linarits, Lobelia, YeJloto Flotrerivg Gazanias, Tradcscantin, Mimulus moachntus, Niereinbergia, Mimidus tigrinoides. Verbenas, Ice Plant, Mesemhryanthemums, The Partridge Vine, Dew Plant. The Strawberry Vine is a rapid runner, with leaves shaped like the strawberry, but much smaller. Its flowers are white, and its seed-pods are formed of bright, cherry-red berries, which render the plant very ornamental. The Cranberry Vine has been used for basket purposes with great success; its 1Q6 WIND on' GARDKNING. glossy, bright leaves, pure white flovrers, and bright, coral-hued berries making it quite an acquisition to the list of trailing vines. The Coliseum Ivy and Smilax are used perhaps more universally than any thing else. They are grown from seed readily. Tlie Gazania splendens makes a hanging basket exquisite in beauty ; reaching down one to two feet from the basket, and blooming ten times better than it does in the open ground. Among other good trailers are the Ivy-Leaved Geranium, Linaria cymbalaria, or common toadflax, Lysimachia, Nummularia Folca, the common Moneywort, single Petunias of free habit, Tradescantia bicolor, or zebrina, the purple and bronze leaves of which are admirable to mix with the trailing stems of Vinca Elegantissima and the variegated Ivies. Of the Ivies, Hcdera latifoUa maculata is really superb if grown in a poor Boil, in moderate shade, and abundantly supplied with water all the summer. Mesembryanthemums do far better in hanging baskets than in pots, but are truly splendid plants when planted in a rich, sandy soil, with plenty of drain- age, and fully exposed to the blaze of summer sunshine. A hot, sunny conser- vatory is a good place for them. Mihania seandens will clothe a basket in a few weeks with its most elegant foliage of light green hue, and rich glistening surface. It should be moderately shaded, and kept in a cool atmosphere. The Polygonum suaves, somewhat like the Dioscorea, is a free growing trailer of very neat habit, producing hundreds of little flowers, which emit a powerful perfume. The Sediim Sieboldii is unsuitable in the open air. When placed in baskets and grown under glass, or in the conservatory, it will spread rapidly, bearing an abundance of its chocolate-colored flowers, while the glauceous hue of its succu- lent leaves presents a most striking appearance Plants of Upright Growth. Here you have a large list to choose from. Usually only one plant should be chosen if the basket is of moderate size. If the basket is very capacious, and you are bound to have a magnificent collection, you may combine all three classes, climbing or trailing plants, or those of upright standard growth. You may select any of the numerous varieties of the Fuchsia, with their grace- ful, bending drops of bloom. Petunias, single or double. Heliotrope, always agreeable for their fragrance. Carnations, sweetly scented, blooming freely every month. The Neapolitan Violet, or the modest yet lovely little Chinese Primrose. The Cyclamen Pcrsiciim, with its curious flowers and valuable foliage, the popular Geranium. The Bajohne odoratn, which will fill your room with its sweet odor ; or you may arrange around the edges of the vessel some Hyacinths, Crocuses or other bulbs. If you want plants of ornamental foliage, you will naturally turn to some of the numerous varieties of graceful Ferns or Lycopodiums. The Dragon plant Dracaena terminalis, has blood WI^'nOW GARBENiyG. 107 red foliage, and seems to be used more often than any other as a suigle plant. The Begonias and Gesnerias have rich velvet}' leaves. For curiosity you may w^ant a Cactus, or a horseshoe Geranium ; for scent, the Lemon or Rose Gera- nium, or the well known scented Verbena, or the Musk plant. The little Cigar plant (^Cuphea), is not very showy, but is esteemed for its constant blooming qualities. Many use the Coleus and Achyranthes, when young, and possessing rich, deli- cate shades, they contrast well with their crimson or purple against the green of other plants, producing a good effect ; but they soon grow too tall and look out of place. They can, however, be kept pinched back. This combination of color, either by contrast or harmony, is an excellent idea, and will not only give each plant an opportunity to display its peculiar habit of growth, but a novelty of color, likely to be appreciated by everyone. Cissus discolor, leaves silvery white, shaded with purple. Ficus repens. Isolepis jundodes, ornamental grass. Panicum variegatum, variegated grass, leaves green, striped with white and rose color. Poa trivialis argenta, a new dwarf grass, variegated. Tradescantia zebrina and i)irides. Vinca elegantissima, variegata. Selaginella variegata. The Ivy Leaved Geraniums are very desirable, and L'Elegante with its light green leaves margined with white and pink, and its snowy white flowers, would be a gem for any window. This class of Geraniums are all of a low spreading or trailing habit, hanging down and flowering freely. Myoporum parvifoUum, a very neat trailer, bearing small white flowers in autumn, winter, or spring. Monochaetum, is a beautiful winter flowering plant, but will require tying down at first, and then will trail nicely over the basket. Ferns. — These form plants of permanent growth and habit, very suitable for hanging baskets. The soil needed for them to grow in, is equal parts of peat, loam, and sand, with some broken crockery mixed with it. One of the finest ferns for the basket is the Polypodium vulgare, or common Polypody. This may be grown, if desired, in nearly all moss, with the addition of only a very slight portion of soil. The Asplenium fldccidum, is esteemed one of the handsomest, having a beau- tiful drooping habit, and yet producing little young ferns all over the old fronds. Place this in the centre of the basket, and display it so that its branches will show over the sides, with their bright lively green, and they will look extremely beautiful, fully justifying this as one of the best in cultivation. Pteris serrulata, and P. rotundifolia, are easily grown, have a good habit, and pro^e to be very good Ferns for the basket. JOS WIXDOW GAFDENIXG. The true Maiden's Hair Fern, (^Adiantum capillus Veneris'), by spreading at the roots will soon cover the surface of a basket. The Asplenium lanceolatun and A. mariniim, are also spreaders. Ferns will always be beautiful plants for window culture on account of their delicate outline and tasteful droop of their branches. Every amateur, however, will do well to begin with two or three at first, and then study the rest gradu- ally until he becomes familiar with their general characteristics. In watering Ferns, use warm water only, thuy will require it frequently also, for Ferns are natives of moist situations and latitudes ; to most of them the dry air of a warm room is often injurious ; closed cases are best. The following trailing Ferns are suited for hanging baskets : Nothodaena tenera, Davallia jjeyifaphi/lla, Fadyema prolifera, Adiantuin cordatuin. The list of plants for baskets is endless; you are never at lack what to choose. You may begin with one plant, but as you become more acquainted with the nature of each plant, and learn their habits, you will love them so dearly as lo sigh because you have not room for more. How to arrange Plants in the Baslcets. We offer several plans of how to 1111 a number of baskets easily : No. 1. — A fine low standard forasmall hanging basket is the Primula Sinensis (Chinese Primi-ose), bearing white or crimson tlowcrs. Soil — two parts garden mould and one part .sand Water often, but slightly. liaise from seed or divisi(m of the root, in .sandy soil. Take offsets from old roots in May, re-set them in fresh soil and keep the pots in the shade until September. Gloxinias — flowers of ro.se color or crimson — make a fine displaj' in similar pots. They need the same soil as the Primula. Water scantily, cxcejit when in bloom. Propagate by division of the roots, or a single leaf .set in damp sand. Just within the edge of the pot set Lysimachia nummularia (Moneywort), Nepeta ^bconia (Ground Ivy or Gill run over the ground), or Coliseum vines. Those have yellow, blue, white llowers. They will throw out trailers three or four feet long. Twine some of those around the chains or cords that sustain the basket. No. 2. — In the same sort of pots and soil, with the same drooping plant. Cyc- lamen punctatuTn, or C Pcrsicum — flowers white, pink or purplish — are very pretty. Or a root or oflshoot of Mesembryanthemnm crystallinum (Ice-plant), whose stems and leaves, when the sun shines upon them, glitter as if covered with pearls .and diamonds. One of these plants will soon spread over the sur- face and hang prettily around the basket. The flowers are .small — pale crim- son or white. Or two or three Verbena.s — white, scarlet and maroon, or white, pink, and purple — sjjreading and drooping, and creeping and climbing as they choose ; they flourish much better thus than when trained and trimmed. Start new plants from seed, or small branches, every June. Keep them rather dry and shaded, till September, then give them plenty of sunshine and increase the water, but never water them very freely No 3. — Tn baskets of the same size — six inches; but in good garden soil only — set a Nicrembcrgia gracilis, with its slender stems and fine foliage and pretty white or lilac fiovv^ers, together with a Mahernia odorata, of similar habits and foliage, with blossoms of pale yellow, very fragrant ; and a Lobelia coelcs- tina, or L. gracilis, with its tiny leaves and delicate white or blue flowers, that will droop over the basket's rim. Start these plants and treat them like Ver- benas, or Petunias ot tanous shades, giving them the same treatment and allowing them to grow as they choose, like Verbenas. Or three or four bulbs of Oxalis, which, if started in August, after three months of complete rest in a dry state, will fill and cover the whole basket with their foliage and floweis from November till April or May. The varieties bearing white, scarlet and yellow, make a pretty group, or pink and white, and purple. No. 4. — Baskets a foot in diameter, filled with the same soil, may hold a Zonale geranium — Tom Thumb, Fire King, or ^Irs. Pollock ; or Mountain of Snow, with its white-bordered leaves — and an Ivy-leaved geranium to climb up the handles; with a Maurandia, a Solanum, or two or three Vincas to trail around the brim and about the basket. Raise these all from branches rooted in sand under glass in ]May. Water frequently, but sparingly, till in bud, then give the fertilizer mentioned in a previous chapter, and plenty of water. No, 5. — "A happy family," to fill a very large basket of good garden soil, should have one of the geraniums above mentioned for its centre ; a Euphorbia, with silvery foliage; Coleus, maroon or bronze ; a Bouvardia, scarlet flowers; a Sanguinaria, white flowers, and mignonette and alyssum, with moneywort, ground ivy, Irish ivy, Madeira vine, Solanum and Maurandia for climbers and trailers. Raise the standard plants from shps or branches rooted in wet sand, under glass, in May or June. Transfer them to the basket in September, and at the same time set with them cuttings of the vines. Keep the basket in the shade, and water it scantily f >r a month ; then give it the full sunshine and water enough to keep the soil from crumbling. When buds appear on any of the plants, give it the fertilizer once a week for two months. Be sure that the air of the room in which it hangs is moist by the evaporation of water upon the stove or fur- nace, and open the window near by twice a week for a quarter of an hour, shielding the plants from the draught by newspapers pinned into cone shape around the basket. With this management the " happy family " will be your pride and delight. 110 W/ynOW GARDENINQ. Inn frame for ad iTied Oardeo or CouoerTBlor; 8««% CH^P^TEH XI. The Ivy for Decorative Purposes. The Ivy might be called the poor man's vine, for, like the Wilson Strawberry, it will grow for almost every one. It is the easiest of all the vines for indoor .use, both in growmg and for training, and not a little of its merits as a favorite window plant are its permanenc}', for it will live long in one pot without change of soil or position. It accommodates itself to all temperatures save that below freezing, and when in full growth it adds more grace to the window than any plant yet used. The English Ivy (Iledera helix) is what is styled a rooted climber, as from every little joint roots will spring out and take hold of any support. This is one great advantage of value over other climbing vines which must be trained. It is hardly adapted to our severe wintry climate, and will not live out of doors unless covered with straw. This renders its use for windows a necessity^ and who that has ever gazed upon its glossy green leaves, drooping with long garlands of graceful verdure, but has felt it well deserved to be named the most beautiful of all drawing-room plant decorations. A writer speaks of the affec- tion with which it is esteemed in German houses: "It becomes as one of the family. Sometimes the whole side of a parlor is covered with it, and twining around over picture frames, or looped about brackets, drooped over statuettes, the portraits of father, mother, and cherished friend, look forth smiling from the leafy environment. Small articles of vertu gleam here and there, touched with it, framed about mirrors or doors, each heart-shaped dark evergreen leaf, instinct with loveliness, adds to them all increased beauty. Wherever it goes it makes a green, perpetual Summer of indoor life." Another writer, viewing it in a poetic view, says: "A single root has been known to wreathe a bow window with thick garlands, and then strike off into lovely, independent paths along picture cords and above cornices, till the room seemed all a-bud, like Aaron's rod. It will cover a screen of wire, curtain a curtainless window, festoon a pillar, frame a favorite picture, (and what more graceful or delicate frame could be desired .'') arch a door, climb and twist about a window-.sill, and swing in long-looped tendrils from a bracket. There is no end to its beautiful uses. " Tickle it with a little guano, and how it frolics. Nip off the terminal shoots, and lo, two bright, persistent tendrils shoot forth, and curl and twine about your very fingers. Wash its dusty leaves, and no child could look more gratefully in vour face. It harbors no vermin, encourages no bliglit, but steadily and sweetlj 112 IVLXn OW GA RDENIXG. keeps its daily course. It is a decorative artist of high ability; acompaiiioa a friend." Notwithstanding tins poetic imagery, it must be admitted its presence, -with Fig. 14. — Au Ivied StairciVsB. its entwining, luxuriant foliage, gives a refreshing and pleasant Iook to every apartment ; of uncounted worth is it in homes where garden facilities are few or none, and a sprig of green is considered equal to the nobleman's wide, rural e-stale WINDOW GARDENING. \i^ The Tvy requires rich soil in which to grow, and must have strong food. " Of riglit choice food are its meals, I ween." You must therefore select for it the best soil wliich your garden can affoid ; add to it one-half each of well-decayed manuie and leaf mould rubbed together ; rlien set tlie pan of compost in the oven and bake it, if you wish to kill all larvae of worms and white ants. Plant the roots in large, well-drained pots, with an inch or two of bits of char- coal at the bottom, and as the roots increase transfer them to larger-sized pots or buckets. The Ivy will grow in wood vessels as well as pottery, and pails or buckets painted green can be made to do duty for the pots. Should the roots appear to be too thickl}' crowded in too small a pot, run a knife around the edge of the soil and turn over the ball of earth. If this is so. cut off a few of the outer ones, and then repot in rich soil in a little larger vessel. The Ivy seems to be the least sensitive to changes of light of any plant we have; neither does it require much heat, thus being exceedingly well adapted to situations in halls or balconies, or rooms not very well heated. Figure 14 shows how it may be of great service in decorating a hall, the brackets holding the pots being fastened to the side of the wall, and the ivy permitted to climb up both wall and porch. If planted in pots and trained to stakes, they can be readily moved from one window to another, or from one room to another ; it is much the most con- venient method to have the Ivy in some portable form. Like all other plants, however, it must have a uniform temperature, and though it will bear a little chillmg without much injury, yet it should be kept where there is some degree of warmth. It dehghts in considerable moisture, and if neglected or pjimitted to dry up, its luxuriance soon suffers ; hence, a saucer or pan should be kept full of water, ready at any time for its use. . During the spring and summer months the pots of Ivy are often carried to the outer air, and placed on the balcony or under a tree in the lawn or garden. Here they might be neglected ; so we again rejjeat our caution : do not forget the water. When brought mto the house the leaves should be carefully washed with soap- suds and water; all unsightly branches and torn leaves removed. Ivies for the house should be brought in before November, or even before it is time to build the fire. Place first in a cool room, and then bring gradually into the warmer room. When placed where they are to stand, the vines should be gracefully arranged, and secured by small strings to the wood-work, or to the curtain by bits of green worsted braid. The green creeping foliage is a fine contrast to the whiteness of the delicate lace curtain. Vines can be grown by immersing the stems in small vials of water, and fast- ening them to the backs of picture frames they are desired to ornament. With 114 WIA'DOW GARDEMiXa. a number of vials quite a luxuriant growth can be imitated, but care must be had to keep the vials filled with water. At intervals, two or three bits of char- coal may be added to sweeten and purify. A good illustration of how a pic- ture frame may thus be decorated is afforded in figure 15, showing a looking-glass with rustic frame, and the Iv}'^ twining around it. In this case no vials are used, but a very unique and convenient receptacle, shown in figure 16. Usually all our frames hang forward a little at the top from the wall, and leave an open space. This receptacle fits into this open space at the back of the top of the frame, and is very neatly concealed. To make this successful the frame should be of good size. The receptacle is wedge-shaped, and made of zinc by any tinsmith, and of the right length and diame- ter to fit in behind. After filling with earth plant the Ivy, and let its leaves ramble over and down the frame. Such a frame should not be hung near a fireplace, for the heat and dust would hinder the' growth of the plant very materially. If it can Fig. 15. — An Ivied Picture Fniiiie. face a north or east window it is best situated. Water should be given daily at the same time the other plants usually receive this attention — by night or early morning. Note one thing, in filling this pan, to remember to place a few bits of crockeiy at the bottom, to secure efScient drainage. Avoid giving a surfeit of water, A very novel style of ornament is afforded in Fig. 17, designed for a portable screen of Ivy. This is a box made very similar to those for the window, of a length varying from three to six feet, and one to two feet wide, mounted on castors. A number of laths of wood, neatly and smoothly planed, are nailed cross- ways, and fastened upright at the back of the box. Usually the height is about four to four and a half feet. The entire box and lattice- work should be painted green; then when dried fill the box Fig. le.— Receptacle for Ivy. WINDOW QARBENINO. 115 with mould, and set in the Ivy plants, which, when well started, will soon cover the trellis completely. If desired, the front of the box may be ornamented by planting thickly Lily of the Valley or Primulas, or Mignionette, sown in the summer. Other climbing vines may be introduced either with the Ivy, or in place of it, such as the Morning Glory, Woodbine, Clematis. The box is an ornament in any position where placed, either before the window, or across the corner of the room, and the capacity of the box also affords opportunity for growing many choice standard parlor plants, Fuchsias, Geraniums, &c. Mr. Robinson states that such screens are used to a great extent in Parisian saloons and drawing- rooms, and in one instance saw them in quite a row, beautifully used to embel- lish crystal partitions between large apartments. Fig. 17. — Oraamental Screen of Ivy. One day in his rambles he came upon a wine shop in an obscure part of Pans, where the window was decorated with the Ivy; on going in, he found it planted in a rough box against the wall, up which it had crept, and was growing above as carelessly as if in a wood. At another time, at the Court of Versailles, in the porter's lodge, he witnessed the deep interest which the fat porter and his wife took in Cacti, &c., and their nice collection of other things, but more particu- larly at the sumptuous display of Ivy, which hung from over the mantelpiece. It was planted in a deep recess, and tumbled out its abundant tresses almost as if depending from a Kerry rock in its native home. 126 WINDOW GARDENIXG. But its most successful use is in the hanging basket. Here at home it ch'mbs and swings, and droops at will, thriving and twining until the arms of the basket are hidden in the dense verdure. Probably no cheaper style of hanging baskets can be obtained than this, and surely none will last as long. Another charming use to which the Ivy can be put is to twine it around an Easel in the parlor. Take a small rustic jardinet, such as are figured in one of the chajiters of Part I, till with earth, plant in it a good strong root of the Ivy, and then twine its long tendrils around the edges of the Easel, and let it droop from the top over the pictuie placed on the rest beneath. It forms one of the finest of draperies and borders for any art engraving, portrait or painting. Little brackets of it may be filled like Fig. 13, in cliapter 10, and fastened in the centre of the side of any room, and while the Ivy itself may droop, theic may bo placed ferns or pressed autumn leaves above to help the effect with their gay colors. Those cuttings which have rooted in water during the winter will need more plant food than this will supply. So in the spring, either plant them in the open border, or place them in pots, with soil, and they will soon become large plants. Eight to ten large pots of Ivy trained over stakes and trellises, are at times nsed by some to ornament a single room. Hanging baskets are sometimes constructed entirely without soil — holding only moss. A quantity of vials are tilled with water and placed therein so as to be well concealed; slips of Ivy are inserted in some of these vials; Ferns are inter spersed in other bottles, and cut tlowers added to others ; brilliant autumn leaves pressed and varnished are added here and there. All combined make a very choice parlor ornament. The only care needed is to keep the water replenished as long as it will last. In the previous chapter on hanging baskets may be seen a design of a very handsome combination of Ferns and climbing Ivy, in Fig. 4, and in Fig. 11, is a sketch of the Ivy as we see it in its most familiar habits of growth. The bowl is an earthen one, such as now are imported and found on scle at most floral stores. A single cutting has been placed in here, and now it is branching out ward vigorously. The directions for propagating Ivy from slips or cuttings, are very simple. Take a young, tender branchlet, cut about three inches in length, and insert half an inch of its stem in wet sand, or soil, nnder a bell glass or tumbler. Keep the soil well moistened, and yet warm, by placing it in the sunshine for fully a week. Then loosen the sand, withdraw the stem, and if rootlets have started, put immediately in a pot of good garden earth, mixed with one-third its quan- tity of sand Press the soil firmly about this young plant, to the same height as the sand reached before, cover with the beU glass again, and set in the shade for a week, then set the glass aside and bring to the sunshine. It should bo watered frequently, but only just enough to keep it from wilting Early in June, if it has grown too long, trim off the large branches, set it out doors in WINDOW GARDENING. 217 the garden, then in September, again put it in a large pot with newer soil, bring to a cool and shady room at first, then gradually bring it to the heat. There are several varieties of the Ivy, commonly grown by all gardeners. The Hedera helix is the English Ivy, the common outdoor climbing variety, found in all parts of Europe. It is of slow growth, two feet a year out doors being considered good progress. It needs water more freely than any of the other sorts, for drouth is death to it. It may be propagated by first cutting slips, then rooting them in bottles of water, and afterward transferring with sand. The Hedera Canariensis, is the Irish I vj"-, slightly larger than the others; leaves five lobed. Will thrive in a cool, shady, and close room. Too great exposure to the heat of the sun will cause the leaves to turn purple, or ripen too quickly ; yet it will seldom blossom without sunshine. The flower is very ordinary, and it is more to be prized for its elegant light green foliage, which are thrown out from its luxuriant shoots. The German Ivy is not properly of this family, but its botanical name is Senecio Scandens. This grows much moie rapidly than either of the above, has lighter green leaves, and is entirely free from troublesome insects. Its branches trail in long festoons. Whether grown in the hanging basket, or over the win- dow, it will soon wreath it with its leafy canopy. It may be trained as a pyra- mid by inserting stakes in the pots, and then letting the vine curve around toward the top, or it may be trained as an umbrella, or bushes, or on a semi- circle, or any form that the frame is made to take. Its easy propagation — for every slip will take root — quick growth, have made it a favorite wiih every one. Another variety called the Coliseum Ivy, (^Lmaria cymhalaria,) is also popu- lar. It grows in slender purplish stems, having small green leaves with puiple linirgs, and its flowers are like those of the Antirrhinum, but are very minute, being of lilac, white and yellow tints, mingled together. It grows in cracks or crevices of old buildings, and tiie roof of the grand Cathedral at Milan, is thickly overgrown with it in patches. It seeds plentifuU}', sows itself, and is also most easily propagated by cuttings. The soil most suitable for it is light sandy loam, yet it does not endure much moisture or dampness. There are still a dozen or fifteen other varieties to be obtained in this country, each peculiar in itself, yet, the variegated varieties, marginata, argentea, &c., are the most desirable. They exist in many different forms, all variously margined with creamy, silver, or yellow colors — on the leaves. They are used either for climbers on the walls, or in beds, as margins. They do best when fully ex- posed to the sunshine, and in a comparatively poor soil. Under the name of Silver Edge Ivy, the argentea has been used for edging flower beds and for ter- race gardens, having a broad margin of silvery white, — other varieties have three colors, white, green, and rose, or yellow. The list of varieties exceeds fifty in number, some producing gigantic leaves of thick texture, others white or golden berries, some richly variegated, otheri W^ WINDOW GARDEyiNG. with small leaves of deepest purple. They form a study of deepest interest, and many should be better known ; yet strange to say, in tlie majority of the florists Catalogues, a few only are mentioned for popular cultivation, the German the Coliseum, and the variegated Vclegante. CH^FTER XII. Climbixg Vines — Balcony Gardening. What delicate taste and suggestive beauty seem gathered up in the associations of climbing vines. Helps to Home Adornment we have often called them, and the fairy fingers who twine them around their parlor windows, or along the piazza, or on the rus- tic trellis before the cottage door, will tell j'ou how well they appreciate their value in making home so pleasant. Climbing vines afford us an opportunity of clothing not the outside of the window alone, but its inside also, with verdure and decorations of greenery, for our imagination must now include, as part of the domain of house-gardening, the ornature of the outside of the window, piazza, or balcony, as well as the interior. Ideas of refinement, taste and beauty, are invariablj'^ suggested by the presence of climbing vines. Let the corners of our houses, or the edges of our windows, be hid under the delicate foliage or brilliant flowers, and their natural festoons of mingled verdure and bloom will soften the most gloomy surroundings. Our new built houses, with all their architectural finish and imposing design, still lack the last softening polish which comes only from the mellowing and genial touch of the vine. The first thing to be considered in growing vines indoors is the soil. Bulbous plants require light and very loose soil. Short, fibrous roots need a firm, fine soil. Long and spreading roots need a heavier and coarser soil than others. For most plants good garden loam, loosened, when necessary, by mixing with it street sand or gravel, and enriched by the application of a liquid stimulant answers very well. To make this stimulant, mix half a peck of stable manure or street sweepings, with a quart of pulverized charcoal, in a tluee-gallon vessel, and fill up the vessel with soft water. After it has stood a week the vessel will be ready for use. It should be clear. Water your plants with this three days consecutively, once in three weeks, during their ear- liest growth and blooming. It should be perfectly odorless ; if not, then add more charcoal. As the liquid becomes more exhausted add more water. This quantity of fertilizing material will supply stimulant enough for two dozen large plants during six months. If you can obtain leaf mould — the fine, dark soil from the woods — take this for a third ingredient of your soil. It will prove, also, quite as nutritive as this fertilizer. If fertilizing liquids are used, they must be applied directly to the soil; but when water only is used, the whole plant should be showered with it. if possible. 120 WINDOW GARDENING In selecting our list we have regard naturally to those which are most rapid growers. First on the list is Coboea scandens. It is an old favorite, and it is worthy of remark, that but few of the novelties introiluced of late years can equal some of the "old favorites" which we have long been accustomed to grow. The vine is named from Cobo, a Spanish priest, who first cultivated it in Mex- ico, where he found it growing wild, and rambling in full luxuriance and heauiy. A new variety of this vine, (Coboea scandens folius variegata) is much the most suitable for in-door culture. The growth of the vine is very rapid, and it is equally easy of cultivation ; the only essentials to success being warmth, a rich, though light soil, and sufficient water. If allowed to become very dry it will wither away. It requires sun and a warm room for it to grow in perfection ; yet it is not a tender plant ; i. e., it will live anywhere, provided the frost does not touch it, and is one of the few plants which will flourish luxuriantly in parlors ligliLed with gas and kept at almost fever heat. If grown in a hanging basket or pot, it must be larLce, and the roots allowed plenty of room to spread out in. In the sununcr the pots can be removed from the interior room to a balcony or piazza, or pluiiL;od into tlie ground until they are again wanted. Then clip off the growth of brandies and leaves ; place t!ie pot back again in a sunny window, where it will soon start forth afresh, with new leaves and arms to cover the window Its flowers are two inches long, and bell-shaped. At first their coloring is of a greenish hue, but it changes to a rich bluish-purple, and will continue in bloom for a week or more. Its, calyx is large, and the long stamens seemingly grow at one side of it, giving to the flower much grace. It is easily raised from cuttings and seeds. The latter require some special care. If planted in the open ground they will generally decay; hence, pot or hot-bed culture is necessary. Usually the seeds are sown in March or April in ligtit, rich soil, in pots, wanned with a gentle heat. After they have started, the young plants, when two inches high, are potted .separately into small pots, and when they have grown about a foot high are carried to the place where they are to remain Usually there is no dif- ficulty in the greenhouse or conservatory, where they are produced abundantly. Amateurs who cannot propagate them will do well to buy them from the florist already started. It is one of the best of vines for parlor decoration, as it will drape and festoon the window, and stretch forth its tendrils, running up even to the coiling. Ttio tendrils are so clinging in their nature that they will attach themselves to any- thing which comes within their reach — curtain cords, bi'anclies of other plants^ brackets, &c., throwing out new branches everywhere. Smilax. The Smilax (Medeola asparagoides) is now seen in almost every window basket, cultivated extensively for its rich, wavy, glo.s.sy foliage. For table dec WI^-DOW GARDEiXING. |21 orations, wreaths, festoons, &c., it is very popular, and in all festive occasions where green drapery is used tlie Smilax occupies a prominent part — always con- sidered indispensable. It is a bulb, a native of the Cape of Good Hope, and requires a rich but rather sandy soil to grow in perfection, also a liberal use of liquid manure, and when in a growing state must have plenty of water. Its leaves are in reality its branches ; its flowers are of a whitish green, and its ber- ries, or seed-pods, black ; but it is cultivated entirely for its graceful sprays. These are often injured by their deadly enemies, the red spiders. By giving the plants a good shower of water ouce a week they will soon be free from the insects, or if this is not convenient, dust tliem with red pepper. Tiie Smilax does not require a very sunny location, but will thrive in a partly shaded window or on a bracket. It propagates itself by offsets from the parent bulb; yet it can also be raised from seeds. It requires some support to cling to, and will run more rapidly if a wire is fastened around the outside edge of the pot, and to this let there be attached small cords an inch or two apart. Fasten the ends of the oords together at the top of the ceiling, and on these slight sup- ports the vines will closely twine . In the summer give it but little water, and keep it in the shade where it will remain dormant. In September repot in fresh soil, and give occasional stimu- lants. It is one of our most delicate vines for the parlor; a great favorite with every one, for its graceful leaves form a very pleasant effect when trained either around the basket, or pictures or statuary. Tro2:>(Colums . The varieties of this class arc very numerous — all beautiful and handsome objects for either indoor or garden use. They are all ra[)id gi-owers during the winter months, and are usually propagated from seeds, which produce a great variety of colors; one especial advantage being the fact of their flowering the first season so soon after planting. For ornamenting the window, or the green- house, or for covering the trellis, arbor, or balcony, (hey are admirably suited on account of their dense foliage and flue bloom. Tropaoluin Lobbianum, is better suited for window use, than the open ground. Flowers are of very bright orange and scarlet colors, and vine a very vigorous grower ; propagated best from cuttings. The Tropoeolum tricolorum, is a bulbous-rooted climber, and best suited for the green-house or conservatory. It should be planted in September to enable it to obtain a good start before the winter starts in. Plant the tubers, which are not unlike a potato, eye upwards, and about an inch and a half beneath the sur- face of the pot, which should be eight to nine inches in diainetcr, and filled up with a light but rich soil. Give a little water when you plant it, and set the pot in a warm but rather shady spot, not letting the soil become dry ; nnlil ym .see the shoots starting freely give but little water, Ihen give water daily. When the branches api)ear, train them to ;i trellis, or archway, according to your taste .A ]22 VriM)OW GARDEiYIiYO. plant of the tricolorum can be placed on one side of the archway or trellis, with its crimson, orange and black blossoms to contrast with some of the other varie- ties, either Lohbianum or p^regrinum. Tropaeolum pentaxtliylliim, a beautiful kind of Tropaeolum ; like the tri-color, but not robust in habit. This kind will come to a great perfection if planted in a large ppt and placed on a balcony. Tropaeolum trimaculatum, an annual species of more tender growth than Trop-major. It can be raised from seeds, and will give in their treatment dur- ing the summer season, a good series. Many flowers and a graceful growth is the character of this plant. Sandy loam, with a third of decomposed manure well mixed with it, will grow the .slower growing varieties to best advantage ; for those more rapid, we would not admit more than one fourth manure. When the leaves and flowers begin to fade away, and turn j^ellow and sere, give but very little water, and wlien dying down give none at all, but remove the bulbs from the pots, and keep them in sand in a cool place until another September conies around. They propagate themselves by tubers, which can be divided, and also will root easily from cut- tings, which will form roots in vases of water; if the branches are full of buds when placed in the vases, they will bloom finel}', and form a very pretty orna- ment for the parlor or sitting-room. Put bits of charcoal into the glasses, and the water will keep sweet and pure, 3Iaurandia. The Maurandia Barclayana is an exceedingly prett}' climber for indoors. It grows readily from seed or cuttings. If from the latter, they should be started in June, so as to make a strong plant by autumn. rf grown from seed, plant m light, rich soil, in June ; water it freely, and g'lve plenty of sun. It blossoms profusely, hanging out full of elegant white, purple, or pink bell-shaped flowers, which much resemble tliose of the Foxglove. It needs a fertilizer once a week, from the time the buds first appear till blooming is past. It is a vine of the easiest growth and culture, winding about slender strings or supports in the window, and in two or three months' time it will cover a small trellis anywhere with its graceful branches and pretty flowers. Seeds can be obtained of most florists, which will furnish all colors of violet, white, scarlet, rose, and purple. Thunhergia. — This is another ornamental climber, easily raised from seed. It grows in any good garden soil, and will soon cover a window frame. It is really a greenhouse perennial, and is propagated by cuttings for greenhouse use. In the open ground its seed is usuallj' sown about the last of May; grows freely, about six feet high; has manj* side branches, and needs a trellis to cling to; flowers are usually a buff or white color, with a rich maroon colored throat Other varieties have shades of oiange and yellow. tt'IADO \V OA h'DKyiya. The' Passion Flower. 123 The Passion Flower, is one of our old standard varieties, much cultivated and admired, and very desirable for parlor ornament. It thrives best in light, rich soil, and needs much sunlight to.bloom in profusion. It cannot bear great water- r^fvy Klg. \H. — P,isfinorn Cznilra. Wwe Pissioii Klower. ] 24 ■ WINDOW GARDENTNG. ing : only be sure that the leaves will not droop from dryness, and it will flourish. Plant the seed, or start cuttings in moist sand, in the greenhouse. After a plant has got a vigorous growth, it may be brought into the parlor, and remain as long as it is warm. Passijlora ccsrulea, has flowers of a sky blue color and remarkable character ; grows finely, and is quite ornamental. It should be pruned close back to within a bud or two of the main stem every summer or autumn, as it blooms on the shoots fi-om the.se buds during the next season. It can usually be had of the florist, and may be kept as a plant for the Conservatory. If planted out to orna- ment a veranda or trellis, it must be protected during the winter, by covering over, as it will not stand the frost. It climbs twenty feet or more, and is quite handsome. For house culture take pot plants already started; keep in a tem- perature of 60° to 75°. Several other varieties are suitable also : — Passijlora racemosa. Passijlora quadrangularis. " permessina. " princex>s. A fine variegated variety has been produced — tiifasciata ; its dark green, tri- colored leaves having a broad band of deep rose color through the various centres. Its foliage is very handsome, and its flowers being of the usual color, makes it very desirable For training in conservatories, they are among the most effective of all orna- mental climbers, producing a great profusion of blooms. Ipomcea. The Morning Glory. These have proved with many ladies the easiest and simplest of all vines to raise indoors. They are raised chiefly from the seeds, and will usually grow sufficiently well to bloom in four to six weeks after planting. They are very rapid climbers, and much more delicate than the Convolvulus to which they are closely allied. The j)rincipal varieties suitable for indoors are: /. cocdnen, (Star tpomcoa,) with small scarlet flowers. / limbaia, white margin, bluish centre, in the form of a star. The Ivy. This has been mentioned in a chapter by itself. For basket purposes the GeV' man Ivy, or Coliseum Ivy, will naturally be chosen first ; but for climbing pur- j)oses, around the windows or doors of the room, choose the Hedera helix, English Ivy, or the Cannriensis Irish Ivy, which will be sure to grow in any room. Both should be frequently watered. Cissus discolor Is a greenhouse climber, with finelj'^ variegated leaves, which are in great demand in the cities for the margins of baskets of flowers. It will hardly grow well in a window garden, as it needs the highest temperature of a forcing house to dcvelope its beauties; but in a proper location it will be for a short time a great addition to a collection of plants, it will giow during the summer in the win- niTWOW GARDENING 125 doAf if shaded ; but will not in the winter, unless it has a great deal of heat and light. Clerodendron Balfouri Needs a warm temperature. Its flowers are of a bright scarlet, with a calyx of pure white, and the clusters are six inclies in diameter. It blooms for many months during the winter, and is invaluable for bouquets and roses. It requires a rich soil and much sunshine, but it will grow well in a southeastern location. The list of climbing vines is very extensive. For parlor culture it .seems hardly necessary to make any addition to a list in which there are so successful and popular favorites as the Ivy, Cobcea, and Morning Glory. Most of the climbing vines suitable for indoor growth are generally grown in the greenhouse. Often they are started in large pots or boxes, and when trained to a trellis aie transferred to a waiin sitting-room to stand there as objects of ornament; but few undertake to grow greenhouse climbers there for permanent use. List of Climbing Plants most useful for the Parlor, Window, or Balcony Decoration. a. Annual, bi-annual, or such species and varieties with tender and soft vines . Maurandya Sarclayana, Lareyana, and other varieties. Cardiospermum Halicacaha, baloon vine. Tropaeolum mnjus, and viajiis jl. pleno. trimaculatum. Lohhianum, and its hybrie best for the "window," flowering freely in pots, jardinets or vases. It is ths earliest sort, consequently the most desirable for winter decoration. llie Ixias, and sister cape bulbs the Sparaxis, Babianas and Tritonias, are amongst the most graceful, attractive and beautiful of cape flowering bulbs. Though differing considerabl}' in stj'le and habit of growth, they require the same cultural treatment. They succeed best in good turfy peat. Plant about the first of October, three or four in a four-inch pot, which should be placed in a cold frame, protected from severe frosts and heavy rains. They should be brought in about the first of March ; they will at once commence growth and flower early in April. The color of the Ixias are of every conceivable shade, forming some of the most remarkable contrasts. The habit of the plant is most graceful, and when a quan- tity are in bloom, the effect of it is most pleasing. In selecting these bulbs, choose named sorts, for the same reason you would many other bulbs, viz : bulbs in mixture are apt to be bulbs of the more common sorts. J 50 WINDOW GARDKXIXG. Sparaxis, are more dwarf and compact in liabit than the Ixia, while their col- ors are as varied and beautiful. For pot cultuie and window decoration they cannot be too strongly recommended. The Tritonia, in habit and form, is very similar to the Sparaxis. They are plants of rare beauty, colors principally selfs. For good effect about twice as many- bulbs should be put in a pot as of the Ixia. Tlie Babiana, in habit and growth, is n-early the same as the two former, but as unlike in color as is possible for such near relatives. While the others are mostly crimson and white, with their various shades, these are nearly all purple and blue. Together, the}' are most desirable, and are annually becoming more extensively used for window decoration. JRanunculus. This family is almost endless in variety, embracing some of the most common forage plants. While the Persian and Turban varieties produce the most elegant and diversified colored flowers, that for symmetry and compactness are unequaled. When properly grown they are completely covered with flowers nearly as large and quite as desirable as roses. But little attention has been given them as pot plants; our experience with them, as such, has been most pleasing, having had more truly handsome flowers than from almost any other plant, with the same amount of trouble and expense. For winter flowering, if possible, select roots that have been kept out of ground the previous season as they come into flower much earlier than those taken up the previous summer. The roofs keep well in a dry place for two j'ears, so that a succession of bloom can be obtained by planting at proper intervals, the whole season. The Ranunculus, requires a strong, fresh, loamy soil, made very rich by well rotted cow manure ; with such components use equal parts. For early bloom- ing, commence potting the first of August. U.se four-inch pots, into which put three roots of separate colors, selection of which to suit the taste; place the roots firmly in the mould, and cover half an inch; plunge the pot or put in a shaded frame; bring in as wanted, commencing the first of October, give them a light warm situation, and shade from the sun which completely destroys their bright colors. For flowering the whole season, pot from August to April, and forward as wanted. The Persian varieties are the earliest, consequently should be planted first, to be followed by the Turban varieties. These two are the only varieties desirable for pot culture ; but there are hundreds of named sorts, to be selected from seedsmen's catalogues that generally list the most desirable kinds. After blooming they can be dried off gradually, put in a dry place and kept for next 3'^ear's flowering. The low price they are sold at does not make it an object to keep them for flowering the second year, as roots grown in the open border are geneially more satisfactory. W'lMJV II' UA linEiXn\G. \^\ Anemone. Of this plant there are nearly a hundred species, each with its score of varie ties, man}'' of them present some of tlie finest forms of floral beauty. The double varieties are the best suited for the conservatory, and for which they are admira- bly adapted; the foliage is extremely beautiful, the bright green contrasting well with the dazzling brightness of the bright scarlet and purple flowers that grow in profusion. They require the same general treatment as the Ranunculus, only tliat a little sea sand or salt should be mixed with the soil. For a succession of bloom, plant from September until March. Those planted in September will flower in latter part of March or the first of April, while those planted in March will flower by the middle of June. We list the following from many we have bloomed, and should recommend them for pot culture. Feu Surperbe, bright scarlet. Rose Surpassante, rose. Queen of the Netherlands, white and rose, fine. L' Ornament de la Nature, rich dark blue. Lord Nelson, violet. Queen Victoria, bright scarlet, a free bloomer. Hembrandt, carmine. ShaJcspeare, beautiful blue. Von Schiller, dark brilliant blue. The above collection includes the most striking and positive colors, and are such as bloom well. Many others might be added to the list without materially increasing the value of the collection. The Cyclamen. About this flower but one opinion can be entertained, — that it is the most beautiful bulbous rooted plant ever introduced for the parlor or conservatory, and its beauty is fully equaled by its adaptation for the same purpose. We are fully justified in making this assertion, by the greatly increased interest taken in it by florists, amateurs, and the lovers of flowers in general. Ease of culture is an additional feature in their character and much in their favor. The diflS- culty in propagation alone has prevented their becoming a florists flower. The roots or bulbs of the Cyclamen being a solid corm, they will not divide success- fully ; consequently the only means of propagation is from seed, which must be gathered soon as ripe, slowly dried, and planted in a green house in heat ; they must be kept constantly growing until they are in full flower. This part we should advise the amateur to leave to the professional florist and depend upon such for plants for the first season. They should be procured soon as they show flower, place in a sunny exposure aTid not be allowed to get chilled in winter. They are generally ofiered for sale about Jan. 1st. If in a warm room, even temperature, and kept well watered, they will remain in flower until the first of May ; after flowering they should b<; ] 5 2 "XV/? O W *iter in the room should chance 160 WmnOW GARDENING- to go below 35". Their styles are so various and prices fc,o reasonable, that any one can be suited at prices of from $3 to $25. To any one living amid the anxieties of a troublesome parlor garden, which they cannot manage, there are but one or two satisfactory ways left for enjoy- ment. Either get a fern case, or be satisfied with a simple hanging basket. The Wardian Case. The history of the Wardian or fern case, dates back to 1829, when a gentleman by the name of Ward.of l^ondon, first noticed, accidentally, the growth of vegeLa Fig. 40. — A Parlor Fernery tion under a close glass. lie had laid down the chrysalis of an insect with souio mould within a glass bottle, and covered it over. A short time afterward, as he describes it, "a speck or two of vegetation appeared on the surface of the mould and, to his surprise, turned out to be a fern and a grass. His interest was awakened ; he placed the bottle in a favorable situation, and found that the plants continued to grow and maintain a healthy appearance." This was the first idea of the Wardian case. In 1842, Mr. Ward published his discovery relating to the " growth of plants in closely glazed cases," in a vol- ume which contained the result of his experiments in raising plants, and also the way he made his discovery. In 1851, the Wardian case made its first success- ful appearance in public, at the " Worlds Fair," and from that time to this it has become more gradually known and better appreciated. Very few have yet WIXDOW GARDENING. 161 L^^^^ aiiy knowledge of it, but it is one of the few things which in time will be as pop- ular as flowers themselves are, and every window will be decorated with their presence. It has been an invaluable means of introducing to the floral world, and suc- cessfully growing many most delicate plants from the tropics which otherwise would scarcely ever have been seen out of their native haunts. By its use the Botanist has been enabled to transport plants to and from great distances thro'i"'Ii extremes of climate; and yet so unfailing has been the working of it that, cases judiciously planted have been known to maintain their freshness and vigor for nine years, and no air or water was ever supplied in that time. It is quite curious to watch its operation, and to many it is evidently as much of an enigma as a plea- sure. Apparently, moisture is constantly being condensed and deposited on the glass sides of the case. This supplies the plants within, who give it out again, and j^et none escapes ; thus affording the spectacle of a little world by itself. This moisture is very desirable for the growth of ferns, and in no otlier form can they be so successfully and evenly maintained as here ; nor can any other variety of plants furnish so interesting a study. The Lycopodiunis are very suitable and grow very satisfactorily. Tliey drop their pendant roots, and, under the influence of the moisture, spread rapidly along the surface of the earth in the case, and filling up the bare spots, make avelvetycoveringof light feathery green, thus inducing shade and moisture. Kiu. 41.-A Fern Vase. Countless seedlings of ferns and lycopodiums will spring up, of the different varieties, and their unfolding fronds and subsequent development will be exceed- ingly interesting to you. You will be agreeabl}^ astonished and surprised when some fern, supposed by you to be dead, suddenly raises its head above the sur- face and shoots rapidly upward to let you see its vitality is not to be questioned. Asa pleasure, ihen, the Wardi an case deserves a cordial reception ; but it will 11 K)2 WLxn ow nARn Exixn he far more welcome to that class of our plant lovers who have often felt the dis- appointment u\ their pot plants, many of the best of which, notwithstanding the closest care, will show the yellow leaves and drop off, or the buds develop but an imperfect blossom ; the fern case will prove to be their refuge in distress, a never failing source of interest and amusement. Principles of the Fern Case. Let us understand the principles of fern cases and the operation and life of plants within. Tlioseofyou who have observed plants iiiuler bell glasses Dr shades, liave noticed that the moisture often collects so quickly inside as to actu- ally obstruct or {)revent the plant from being seen, and have wondered where this moisture came fiom. The answer to this question is simple : " From the earth, the plants, hy exha- lation, i. e. vegetable perspiration." But you ask again : " Whj/ does it collect so largely f" and we reply: "Simply because we confine it, and prevent its escape and evaporation by making our ca-^e airtight. Tf the case were ventilated, its tem- perature would be moderated to correspond with the atmosphere of the sitting WLyn W GA RD EXIXG ](;3 room. And this is the very thing we do not want. Our case then should be made air tight, for the purpose of not only conKning this moisture, but of keep 5ng a constant and abundant supply of it, for the [ilants must have a congeniJ*! atmosphere of their own and cannot live without the pro|)er moisture. You cannot expect your ferns or plants to grow nicely in this moist atmosphere 164 WlXnOW GARDEXING if you open the case every few days : It has the same effccl as change of climate, or open air exposure to a sick person accustomed only to the air of the house. The confinement of ferns in these close cases has the tendency to make them delicate, and the sudden opening of the case, with the introduction of the hot, ary, dusty air from the rooms, is against all reason. It is sufficient to say, there- fore, tliat wlien once planted and closed, llie fein case needs no Ventilation. Let it live by itself. Drainage. This point comes up for dis- cussion, and the onlj' answer we give is to ask another ques- tion : *' Do plants need drain- age when the water is being CDustantly evaporated and tlirown off in the open space above the plants ?" In other words, the plants are draining themselves constantly. Here is one great advantage of the fern case over the pot plant, the latter requires constant watering, the former none at all, for no water escapes. Then a fern case may be handled with impunitj' by one in whose hands we would not trust a row of pot plants, and so is beyond tlie reach of the care- less or forgetful. JSlanagement. Whether your case is of wood, glass, or metal, you will require a pan in which to hold Fi„. 44.-A Fern Window an.i Aqiinihim. the ])lants. Zinc pans answer every purpose, combining economy and duraoility. Tin should not be jsed as it will soon rust and wear out. No pan should be less than four inches deep, unless the plants are very dwarf specimens, and then an inch less in depth will do, though there might be some risk of crowding the roots too much. Tlicn, again, too great a depth is objec- W^INDOW GARDENING. 1G5 tionable. The best rule to observe is as follows : Ferns, whose fronds are not over eight inches in length, should be planted in a pan four inches in depth. Larger ferns may require a pan five to six inches in depth, but four inches will generally be found sufficient for all purposes. Those who try the shallow and deep pans will soon find how much more freely their plants grow when plenty of space is allowed for their roots. A side open- ing to the glass case is to be preferred in all cases, whether by hinged doors or sliding panes. This avoids reaching in at the top of the fern case, which, besides being extremely awkward, often results in the breaking of the fronds or the leaves. The height of the case is an impor- tant point. Under glass, a plant or fern, will often develop a greater length of froiid, than under any dif- ferent circumstances. Make your cases high, so that all fronds may have room to develop and expand to full size ; and the height should not be less than twice the diameter. In cramped quarters, and cases chosen perhaps too small, filled with too robust plants, their growth is often summarily — [— checked by reaching the top of the L, glass ; there the fronds with no chance to get higher, lie flattened out against the surface of the glass collecting an undue amount of moisture, which soon causes it to mould or damp off. It becomes unsightly, and the beauty of many rare and fine looking speci- mens is endangered. The forms and construction of fern -^ cases will differ with the tastes of each individual. We do not recommend at- tempts at " home made " cases, on the Fig. 45.- Ferns in a window Garden, side of mere economy, for there are now cases already prepared for use, at so cheap prices, and obtainable at proper places, that it is a waste of time to make one yourself. Very desirable cases are now imported, constructed of bases of pottery, with dishes all complete, and the glass shade ready to fit upon the top — only wanting the soil and the plants from the florist. Very good cases are also made of wood bases, and the cost for either will not exceed $3 for circular cases 12 inches in diameter, to §6 or ^10 for 18 inches to 2 ft. in diameter. The larger your case, the better, provided it is not too bulky. It should be In a form easily handled, light in weight ; and if square, or in any other form than 1()G WLXDOW GARDEXIXG. round, should have a small door to reach the plants without lifting the glass top. The soil for fern cases, should be carefully attended to; no common garden earth will answer; get it from the most reliable floiist if possible, — and evon some of these may not know exactly the needs of the plant. J'or ferns, choose leaf mould one part, silver sand one part, dry friable peat two parts. Avoid that peat which comes from wet unhealthy situations. Wherever you see ferns grow- ing near the edge of woods or running streams, you can be safe in taking r^me of the same soil, if 3M)u cannot get a good compost anywhere else. English flo'' sts, who have access to special materials, make up a particular compost of the *b] Fig. 46.— Ileatod Fern Case. lowing materials which is de.scribed as perfect. Mix equal parts of silver sand good loam, powdered chai'coal, refu.se of cocoannt fibre. If you wish, you maj cover the bottom of the pan with a layer of powdered charcoal, or bricks or grave broken to the size of hazel nnt.s, to a depth of one inch, if pan is four inches deep ; or one and one-half inches if 6 inches deep. Do not take the advice of those who recommend filling the pan half full with small charcoal ; such a proportion is unnecessary. When the soil has been placed in the pan press firmly that all the plants may be set solidlj'-. Location for fern cases. They will do well anywhere, and that is just what the WiyVO W G A RDENIXa. 167 Fig. 47. — Kern Caoe. 168 WIA'J)0]V GABDENING amateur wants. They may be shifted from one window to another at pleasure, with little fear of dangerous consequences. If placed in the south window keep them back a little from the heat of the midday sun. A half shady position is much better than a sunny one. A northern out look will suit them admirably if not too cold, — and an eastern or western one is at all times suitable. It would be best to have tables provided especially for the fern case to rest upon. This should be strong and yet easily moved by castors, (use the brass ones, not the rubber or wooden ones.) If the cases are quite small, say within 9 inches diameter, they may be suspended, and some of these hanging ferneries are quite ornamental. The secret of good management is told in a few words, viz., water tvell after planting, then shut up your case, and leave it to itself. A successful fern case grower, writes us that " the most success ful winter I ever had with ferns, was one in which I only watered the case once after planting, and only opened it a few times in the seven months from November 1st to June 1st — and then to remove dead fronds." If you water sufficiently at time of planting, (and you need not water any more than ordinarily for pot plants,) you will have no occasion to water again. The closed case prevents all evapora- tion. Some fronds of course will die or turn brown. These must of course be removed. Insects may invade your little plant home, and Fijr. 48.— Keiii Piii.ar. these must be removed, but there will not be many and they are easily disposed of. Some of our florists recommend ventilation for the case, feeling that the plants will be much the better for the pure air and the sunlight. This may be done only when the temperature of the outer and inner air is about the same, and only for a short time. It should not be done frequently, but may be tried at long intervals of one or two months'. WINDOW GARDENING. 169 Avoid too much moisture. If there should be too much inside the case, open it daily until a little has evaporated into the outer air, and then close agani. It will not need watering or opening again for a month or more. Plants for The Fern Case. In arranging your plants place the strongest growers m the centre, and the smaller at the sides. Besides standard plants in the fernery, there are often introduced little hang- ing plants suspended from the top of the glass frame. Plants for this purpose are simply taken out of their pots, their balls of earth are surrounded with moss, tied with copper wire, a loop running from which is fastened into a hook in the top, and then it becomes a miniature hanging basket. In Eng- land small potsof gutta percha are manufactured for this express pur- pose. You will perhaps be advised by some florists not to choose for j'our fern case any of our native plants, because it is difficult to transplant them from their native soil, just at close of summer when they have done growing, and compel them to continue life continuously there- after, in opposition to their nature, which demands rest during the^ winter season. Nevertheless it is done, and many a pretty fern case is indebted to some plant treasure of this character stolen from Sj^l- va's bowery retreats, to grace the setting room ; they still thrive, de- spite the prognostications of wise Fig. 49.— Parlor Peru stand corered witli Glass. heads as to failure. The Lygodium palmatum, or Climbing Fern, is very suit- able, and can be usually found in shady or moist spots in any of our Eastern States. It has a slender running root and stalk, from which proceed twining flexible stems, with very smooth palmate leaves or frondlets; these running stems or stalks are often three feet long, and the whole plant resembles in growth a delicate little Ivy. Besides its suitableness for the Fern Case, it is especially desirable for Rock Work in a conservatory. The Partridge Vine, (Mitchella,) is also invaluable, for its brilliant scarlet berries enliven the sober green of the ferns or form an excellent contrast with the mosses. Take up large vines of it, with as many berries as you can procure ; 170 WINDOW GARDENING. if they are green when found, they will turn red very shortly; for covering soil and otherwise, naked or exposed, it is excellent. The Trailinr) Arbutus (Epigoea repens) usually forms its buds in October or November, and blooms with full flower by January. These flowers are highly prized for their delicious fragrance, and it may be considered one of the choicest for our selection. The Maidens^ Hair Fern (Asplenium) is the first fa- vorite for the Fern Case, the lo\eliest of our native ferns. It may be found on some ^lieltered hill side, or away in -oiiie deep, moist woods, .j.^^ known by its black, hair like stems, and curiously shaped Cionds. Gather some of the \(jiy smallest specimens, and t them grow ; take them up loots and all. When you gather up the roots take up alho soil enough to fill j-our ^5 zinc traj^ or box. It will ^^ stand transplanting better if ii^^ its proper soil is carried with it. It will not be amiss to Fig. 50. take home an abundance for other purposes, to fill in the pots for Fuchsias. Roses and Carnations, which grow in your windows. Among other plants which you can transplant from the woods, are The Gaultheria jirocumhens, or Wintergreen. . Chimapliilla, or Pipsinima, various species. Fryola, or False Wintergreen, various species. (Sarraccma pwrjowrea, or Side Saddle flower ; their cups must be kept full of water. Cypripedium, or Lady Slipper, or 3faccaron Flower. Speranthes, or Lady 2'resses, various species. Dionaca muscipula, or Venus' Fly Trap. The American Lycopodiums, or Club Mosses, are all very desirable. Many of them are used freely for decorations at Christmas. The best varieties are dent ieulat urn, Wildenovii, mnhrosa, dendroideum, lucidulum. The daintily cut foliage of the Captis trifoliata or Gold Thread, will form a pretty feature, and the Linewood, or Hepatica, with its blue ej'es, will be no less lovely. The AVild Lily of the Valley (Convallaria') will open its tiny white bells long before they open in the meadow or at the brookside. WINDOW GARDENING. 171 If you look for other mosses, larger than llie Lycopod'uim, you can take the Poh/stichum, or Hair Cup moss; TatrapJiis, or four toothed moss; Splachniim, or Umbrella moss. You will need plenty of these green mosses or white lichens or the Seahng Wax moss, to pack about the roots of your plants, and help keep up a cool, wild, woody home-like retreat. The following are the most generally preferred Ferns : Polypodium, various species. StrutJiiopteris , Ostrich Fern. Fig. 51.— Group of Fern Shells. Pteris, or Brocken. Adiantum, or ]\Iaiden Hair. Cheilanthes, or Lip Fern. Woodivardia. Camptosaurum, or Walking Fern, Asplenium, or Spleen wood. Dicksonia. Cystopterii, or Bladder Fern 172 WINDOW GAEDENINO. Woodsia. Polystichum, or Shield Fern. Onoelea, or Sensitive. Daoallia Canariensis, or Hairs Foot Fern. If your fern case is large enough you may add one or two large plants, such as the Dracaena terminalis, or Nobilis; the Dieffenhachia variegata, is very sliowy. The Pandanus or Ananassa may be admitted, and if you have plenty of room, there is no objection to the Crotons with their handsomely variegated foliage, the Cissus discolor, with blood red leaves and half trailing habit, the variegated leaved Begonias, also the Gesnerias, Caladiwn, Colocdsias, Marantas, Cacti, Saxifragas, Sediim. Avoid complication or crowd- ing. If your case is of but mode- rate size, say two feet in diam- eter, use only one or two laige upright plants; but if smaller tlian this stick only to the ferns and mosses. Among other additional plants are : The (^Goodyera puhescens') Rat- tlesnake Plaintain ; leaves varie- gated, dark green, with white vems. The Tooth (^Erytlironium') Dogs' Violet, whose leaves are green mottled with brown. For trailing i)urposes perhaps nothing is better than the Lysim- achin, or Moneywort, and the Coliseum Ivy. Orchids may be Fig. 52.-oii<,imeutai Vein Case ami Stand. added, if there is plenty of room, and nothing will give more satisfaction. Do not expose those ferns with variegated foliage to severe sunlight, as they will suffer injury. Neither should delicate ferns be watered on the leaves. Some whose leaves appear but mere powder or dust, such as the Golden or Silver Fern, will lose their beauty if thus treated, and perhaps may be killed outright. Exotic, or Green House Ferns. Should you have ill success with jour native plants and be undecided what to do we think it best for you to fall back upon something more suitable, and WlJ^nOW GARDENING 173 begin in a more simple manner, by going to the nearest green house, where ferns are grown, and procure some small seedlings. These come up in great quantities in the pots, also on the earth of the pan on which the pots rest, and in fact everywhere that the spores chance to sow themselves. You can in this way frequently get a half dozen varieties of ferns. Among them probably one. or two Adiantums , a Doodia, and several varieties of Pteris. These are the ferns mort likely to produce seedhngs, when the spores are scattered over a moist surface. After these have been transferred to the fern case, their daily growth will afford you a very pleasant and interesting study ; the gradual change and growth of the frond from the first appearance to the full development will amply repay you for your patience in waiting. This is the true way to enjoy plant cases ; begin with the rudiments and learn step by step the nature of the plants. For moderate sized cases we must select ferns of size and habit suitable for them. The best of those found in green houses are : Adiantum capillus Veneris, A assimile, A acristatum, Doodia aspera, D. caudata, Pteris geraniefolia, P. Cretica, albo lineata, P. hetero- phylla, P. serrulata, Bleehnum gracile, Asplen- ium auritum, and A. bulbiferum. Theie are many others, but a simple list like this is suf- flBcient, For tall ferns choose Poli/podium Aureum, P. appendiculatum, Pteris argyrea, Asplenium Brasiliense, Adiantum inacrophyllum, Anemia Phyliti^is. In pia.iting your ferns do not crowd them together, but gi •- room for the full development of the fronds ; their growth is rapid and manj* soon double their original size when first pur- chased. Alternate the different varieties if pos- sible, and do not get two or three plants of the same kind together. A fine delicate fern always Fig. 53.— Parior Fern stand. looks more graceful and pretty beside a variety with a full bioad frond. So a light green or variegated plant will show to better advantage beside one with a dark green frond. In choosing your soil, make say of three parts rich, black peaty mould, one part coarse sand and gravel siftings mixed, and one part broken charcoal, see that the pieces of charcoal are broken to the size of cranberries, and well mixed with the earth ; the whole should only be broken up, not sifted. 174 Wr.VD OW G A K D F.NTXG After you have put the plants in the case, wat( r with a small watering pot with a fine nose. Saturate the earth pretty thoroughly, but not fo make it muddy. There are many other varieties of tlie Lyfjodiums not mentioned above Lygodium, apodum, densiim, caesium, arboreuiii, UpidophyUum, their roots will extend over the earth, coveiing all the bare spots with a fresh green carpet of delicate growth. Sliould we be able to procure a plant of the greenhouse species of climbing {em, Lygodium flexiiosum, or L. japonicum, another beautiful object will be added. Among the climbing ferns, are some of the most graceful ferns in the whole family of Filices. There is one plant, however, not a fern, which does exceed- ingly well in a fern case, and is remarkably interesting. We refer to Incus utij)- uluta. This plant, a vine, is a free grower, and climbs up the sides of our case by its roots, which, aided by the moisture on the glass, spreail and adhere to it llilllill Fig. 54.— Plaut Case. It is a hard wooded plant, roots quickly from cuttings, and grows so freely as to fill a moderate sized case very rapidly. After you have become accustomed to growing ferns in the case, you will per- haps crave a little variety. This can be easily had. Suppose you look a little into the curiosities of growth and reproduction. If you look on the under side of the fern fronds, you will find .something re- sembling a brown powder, adhering to them tliickly in regularly distributed mas.ses of varied shapes, depending upon the species. Examining with the magnifier or microscope, you find them to be seeds or spores. Shake these spores, which appear like the veriest dust, over the surface of the earth in an ordinary fern case, after it has been well smoothened. The earth should be watered very thoroughly previous to scattering the spores WINDOW GARDENING. 175 In about a month or six weeks, looking carefully across the surface of the earth, )-ou see the slightest specks of greeti; again examining with the microscope you find them living organisms of vegetation ; and when at a later date they be- come of good size, it is with no little satisfaction to be able to say, that they were the seedlings sown by your own hand. If in your travels in the woods, you carry an herbarium with you, you can gather the fronds of every variety you meet, which contains fertile spores. Spores from such an herbarium should be planted as soon as convenient to insure germination. Spores have been known to germinate as long as eigiiteen months after being gathered, while under favorable circumstances germination in spores has taken place, when sown eight or ten years after they were col- lected. From your spores you will get a quantity of seedlings, many of them of strange forms, and some to differ from the parent plant. We may find frequently several fronds on the same plant differing very materially. Thus your love and knowledge of plant life in- creases, and you wilU cherish your fern case with more than customary pleasure, for it opens up a new world to you. One thing only remember i. e., keep out of your fern case all the common bed- ding plants, such as Geraniums, Petunias, Verbenas, Roses, Fuschias, &c., for they cannot well stand the confined moist air. Designs for Fern Decorations. A home made plant case can be constructed as fol- lows: Get your carpenter or cabinet maker to con- struct a shallow box, of fine wood, say black walnut, about two feet wide, and three or three and one-half feet long. The bottom board should be about an inch and a half thick, and project about an inch beyond the sides. The sides should be of inch stuff, and the depth six or seven inches. See that the comers are well dovetailed together, and on the inside of the tops cut a groove, into which to set the glass. The size of your glass should be about two feet square for the ends, and two feet by thirty-six inches for the sides and top; but if this is too large and expensive a case, you can construct one of but half these dimensions, viz., twelve inches square for the ends and twelve by eighteen inches for the sides and top. Many like to have their cases made for them with pitched roof, like design No Fig. 56. — Ferns in Arboretto. 176 WIi\n W GA RDMXI.XG. Fig. 57.— Arliorette. 40j and with wooden frames same as for windows. All that it needs is to fit Ine glasses into the frames and seal the sides up tightly with putty. The frame, as it sets into the lower vrooden box, should also be fastened well with putty, to make it tight; and on the outside you may fasten a very pretty little moulding, which will cover the top of the wood, and set snugly up to the glass. You will of course take care to have a little door cut in the back glass, say about six inches by eight or ten, opening or sliding, whenever necessary to introduce water, or remove insects and dead leaves. In Fig. 42, the upper pane maybe made movable Next you will need a tray to go inside the wooden frame work. This should be of nearly the same size as the box, but smaller so as to fit inside. This tray should be constructed of zinc, and may be made with a double bottom of an inch in height, a small hole being cut in the upper one, for the purpose of carrying off any surplus water. The filling and planting have already been described. Place some bioken charcoal, or fine brick or gravel, in the bottom of the upper pan, and then your compost over this. If your wood is well moilided, and sides ornamented, the case will be a very handsome ornament. Cases such as we describe, are now made and sold at prices of from f 20 to $30, by all our large floral warehouses. Should you wish to construct a little rockery in the fernery, select pieces of stone, sharp pointed, or with rough jagged sides. You will often find them in some moist spot in the woods, already half covered with moss; then build them up one above the other ujitil you have made the form of an arch. Start the stones from the very bottom of the tray, mix the soil well with them wherever possible, into all the interstices, and if it is necessary to get cement to make them firm, do so. Then set set your ferns in all the rugged interstices of the stones, wherever you have placed the earth, and they will soon cover it with their leaves, and their roots will reach into all the crevices. Design No. 40, is about the size we have described, constructed in a more than usually ornamental style. It is very suitable for all kinds of ferns, and Lycopodiums, Small Orchids, small species of the Draca ena, Croton pictum, Cr variegatum, Aphelandra Leopoldi, Gymmostachys, Ver shaffeltii, Eranthemum, ifineum, Passiflora trifasciata, Alocassia, Caladium, and Flttonia argentea. Fig. 41 shows one of the simplest of all fern decorations in the form of a neat 5,S.— .Arboiette. WINDOW GARDENING. 177 Fig. 59. Tase ; the bowl is filled with the proper soil, and its surface is covered with moss. In the centre is a nicely shaped plant of ihQ Maiden Hair Fern, whoso appearance gives a delightfully cool and refreshing feeling in the room. A very pretty effect could be produced by inserting little tubes of glass or tin (such as are used for holding cut flowers,) in the soil here and there among the moss then fining with water and inserting at intervals clipped blossoms of some of your winter blooming flowers. Geraniums, Roses, Fuchsias, &c., or perhaps a clipped blossom from your climbing vines. Arranged any way it is in fact a beautiful object for the drawing room or conservatory. In Fig. 39, is shown a most charming fernery, the property of Mrs. Shirley Hibberd, at Stoke Newington, London, England. This conservatory was located where sunsbme was excluded on account of neighboring build- ings and large trees, and a fern house was constructed. Tlockenes were built up on two sides of the house, and in the crevices were planted ferns and lycopodiums. The floor was covered with neat tiles, and with the naturally graceful character of tho plant the conservatory was pe- culiarly ornamented. The rockeries were made almost entirely of big blocks of peat, and on the top near the glass were planted a few Sedums, Sempervivums, and other succulent plants. Mr. Hibberd, in his description of the fernery, in his volume " Rustic Adornments for Homes of Taste," states that for the past twelve years about a hundred and fifty species and varieties have thriven here making summer all the year round in their perennial greenness. The finest selections of ferns, as recommended by him for such a house, are i\iQ Adiantums, Asplenium, Adian- tum nigrum, Athyrium, f.f-, A. f. /. crispa, Gymno- gramma leptophylla, Doodias, Scolopendriums, Wood- wardia radicans, Equisehm, Sylvaticum, and SeJaginellas. Water was given daily during the warm weather; in spring and autumn, twice a week was suiBcient, and in winter once in two or three weeks The plants must, however, never be left to get dry. Miss Mal'ing, an English lady writer on indoor plants, has invented a case (Fig. 42) which contains room for a hot water apparatus in the zinc pan. Her princi- Fig. 6o. pie is to supply a cool or a heated end in the fern case, according to the necessities of the plants. " Hardy or greenhouse plants last long in flower at one end in the cool temperature ; stove plants and forced flowers come on beautifully in the heated part. If all your plants in the case are hardy, then use no heat. If our ferns or flowers, though not wanting heat specially, should damp ofi; we give heat just for a time to change the air entirely. At ten minutes notice the 12 178 WINDOW GARDENING. heat can be raised to any degree up to 90". The cases are of tw^o sizes, the larger ones being about four feet long, by tw^o wide, and two high, while the boxes on which the glassed frames rest are eight inches deep. The boxes are lined with zinc, and fitted with hot water apparatus. No lamp or any heater is required, hot water only being used, which is poured in through a concealed opening from >»"ithout, and when cold is let off by another opening. This water maintains the temperature at a height sufficient for most plants for twenty-four hours without refilling; but when greater heat is required it can be raised to any degree from 65° to 90°, by adding more hot water after the first twelve hours. The upper glass sash is movable, and by a button or hook is lifted at any time ventilation is needed or you wish to examine the plants. This principle of heating the case is principally for the sake of bringing into flower and keeping in good health manj' tender stove plants, as well as other delicate plants which cannot stand either a cool or a diy atmosphere." Fig. 01. The general outline and construction of Miss Maling's plant case is very similar to the " home made case" we have previously des- cribed. Heating will be unnecessary if amateurs will only choose but the ordinary native or greenhouse ferns, and keep the case well closed away from cold air. But it seems to us if the case is to be heated at all, it should be divided into two apartments, one end for plants needing the warm temperature, the other for the cool temperature, or else put no plants in the case unless they are all to be treated alike. Whenever, in the mind of a beginner, there appears to be a doubt as to what to choose, take the Lycopodmm denticulatum, and other varieties of i. caesium, apodum, heloctica, or variabilis will always appear to advantage ; also the Fteris cretica alho lineata, or Cyrtomium fal~ catum, do remarkably well, being very strong growers." These Fern Pillars are also made of Terra Cotta, in England, with openings in appropriate places for .set- ting in the bricks. The columns are also constructed so as to permit a glass screen to shut completely over them and rest upon the base, thus giving the same effect as a Wardian Case. Fig. 49 shows another design on a table, with a glass top also. Fig. 50 shows one of the largest styles of fere bricks, as it rests fitted into a fire screen. Fig. 51 is much more elaborate, and shows what maybe done either in the sidfe of a wall or a conservatory, or to occupy a large fire place. These are mado WINDOW GARDENINO. 179 in the form of square pieces of pottery, which may be nailed flat against the wall. In the lower portion of the front appears a projection of a shell, and with- in it is a small cavity for holding the plants. Being of various sizes, any style of arrangement can be ingeniously formed, and at slight expense. These designs are as yet unknown in the United States, but can be quickly imported to order by any one; or our pottery manufacturers could soon supply any demand by making any pattern and casting therefrom. They are elegant in appearance and effect, and the general testimony is to the effect that the ferns thrive very well in them. Fig. 63.— Feru Stand. Fig. 64.— Fern Stand. Figs. 52 and 53 introduce several pretty Parlor Ferneries, of easy manufacture, the former in the shape of a rectangle, about 2 feet long by one and a quarter foot wide, and two feet in height. The other with six sides, curving to the top, from which suspends a little wire hanging basket. These designs are so»a constructed by any cabinet maker. A pleasant story is told of a gardener near London, England, who, instead of following the invariable fashion of devoting the high stonewalls surrounding his enclosed garden, to wall fruit, determined to cover it with ferns. " The wall was 14 feet in height and 400 feet in length. It was then very old, and having been originally built of a dark red brick, much in use in that day m the district, it had a venerable and picturesque appearance. From the ground line to the summit it was all the summer long dotted over with ferny tufts of herbage, some sparkling with the hue of emerald, others shading off to WINDOW GARDENING. rich shades of brown and orange; and the delicate tracery of those with finely divided fronds, wonderfully set off like vegetable lace against the dark back- ground of the weather-worn brick. Nail holes had been made here and there, where in former times were fastened the branches of peach, apricot, cherry, and plum trees to ripen their crops ; but they had long ago been given up. The idea occurred to him to convert it into a perpendicular fernery. He first of all thrust into some of the large holes in the wall, tufts of common Polypody, making their creeping roots comfortable with turfy peat, and securing them from falling out by means of a copper wire passed across the hole and held to the bricks by small staples. As these were found to flourish and give the wall somewhat the aspect of a ruin, he began to make holes to plant others ; and by degrees the wall was covered with Hearts Tongue, Asplenium adiantum, the AVall rue fern, the Mountain Polypody, the Alpine cystopteris, and t"'«- fis- dozens of others that bear drought patiently, and naturally inhabit rocks and waysides. In the shady chinks next the butteries, he man- aged to coax the Maiden hair to make luxuriant fillets of herbage, and at th« foot of the wall there were tufts of lastrea, osmunda royal, and other ferns which the wall itself refused to nourish The majority of these held their verdure far into the winter , the Hearts Tongue and common Polypodium were usually quite green the whole year round; and during the winter their rich dottings of golden spores sparkled is the most cheerful manner against the dark back ground of sheets of ivy and red brick. Of course the wall itself was crown- ed with /Swop^ra^rons, Wallflowers, and other gay tenants of ruined towers, or pines, that make riot of man's work, and glorify the decay of art with the triumph of nature." Figs. 55, 56, 57, 58, introduce several " Rustic Terra Cotta Arborettes." These are made of Terra Cotta, or pot- terj'^ ware, cast in a rugged form resembling the projecting limbs of an oak tree just clipped, and with cavities opening downward for the reception of earth and holding plants. Some of them have a solid interior, and each basin is by itself. These are undesirable, having no opportunity for drainage ; but where the interior is entirely hollow and can f'g-6G. be entirely filled with earth, no rustic ornament is more suitable for ftins or other plants to live in. They may decorate the hall, parlor, conservatory, or out door lawn. Their size is from one to three feet high. WIA^DOW GAEDENING. 181 The strongest growing ferns may be placed in here, taking care to put a few crocks of broken brick or charcoal in the bottom of each basin for drainage. They may be used also for spring flowering Bulbs, and filled with hyacinths, crocuses, scillas, snowdrops, narcissus ; and then when these are over, the con- tents may be emptied and refilled again with summer flowering plants ; but it is usually best to devote them to such classes of plants as will flower the year round without any change. Figs. 59 to 66 show the different styles of mounting Fern cases with the customary cylin- drical glass shades. In Fig. 43, we see one of the larger styles of Miss Maling's designs, intended to set upon a table. This is most charmingly filled ; and perhaps we cannot do better than let Shirley Hibberd himself, who filled it, tell us what is in it: " It fell to my lot to construct the mimic arch- way (a rockery,) and fill it with pockets for the reception of small ferns. For that purpose I took two square seed pans, and placed them bot- pjg. ex-Fern or Flower Case, tom upwards, on the zinc bottom of the case, as abutments, which, of course when the case was filled with soil, were hidden from view. From the flat foun- dation of clay thus provided, I began to build, using small pieces of coke dipped in a batter of cement, and spending a few hours every day for four days in succession upon the work ere it was completed. In the pockets were inserted specimens of Cystopteris regia, Camptosaurus rhizophyllus, Asplenium flabellifoUum, Scolopendrium, vulgare var ramosum, poli/schides, and vulgare ramo mar ginatum, Adiantum hispidulum, and a few Se- laginellas. The latter soon grew so as to smother the »ehole fabric, forming a rich bell of various tmts of blue and green, with the fern pushing through them. On the right hand side of the arch was planted Nephrolepis exaltata, one of the most suberb of Wardian Case ferns, and remarkably distinct, with its graceful arch- ing polypodium-like fronds. On the left hand Nephrolepis pectinata, which is of the same habit of growth, and a very beautiful and interesting fern ; nevertheless, less beautiful than the other, as it is also less vigorous. A small plant of Platycerium grande was then planted in the shell of a cocoanut, and suspended by copper wire to the crowu of the arch, and this spring its new growth was so vigorous that it had to b« Fig. 68.— Case for preserving flowers tceah. 182 WINDOW GARDENING. removed to the greenhouse, where it is now tlourishing. Two more notable ferns were introduced, namely : Pteris flahellata, var. crispa, a verj' erect and char- acteristic fern of large growth, quite cheap and common, and one of the best for glass cases, of at least two feet in height within. The other was our fine old hardy friend, Cyrtomium falcatum, which is worth a place anywhere among ferns, and fortunately it will grow anywhere, and is always noble. The rest of the plants consisted of various small, yet choice subjects. Pteris SCrt&erwZa, very beautiful in the lace-like divisions, and light green hue of its fronds. It is really a gem, and always grows well in peat, cocoanut, or any soil of a light spongy texture. Doodia lunulata and caudata, are of small gi'owth, and serve well with Loma- ria lanceolata and L.spicant, to fill up green tufts between ferns — of very dis- tinct and striking appearance. In the centre of the case, but on the side oppo- site to the view here given, and hence hidden by the Platycerium — a plant of PMebodiian sjyorodocarpum — made a fine effect. It is one of the most distinct and beautiful and easily managed of all Wardian Case ferns, but must have always a nice peaty mixture. The remaining ferns are Polypodium phego- 2)tei-is and rugulosum, Campyloneurum phyl- litidis, Adiantum formosum, pedatum and tenel- lum. An important point in all fern cases is to have them so constructed as to be easily turned about and moved around, so that the plants may all share equally in the sunlight. If the case is too large, many plants will receive an undue proportion of the sunlight, while others Fig. 69.-Ladie8' Plant Case. wiU be totally deprived. The Germans, who have a greater fondness and taste for Window Gardening than any other nation, have some very tasteful fancies in the way of Ferneries and Rockeries in the windows. Fig. 44 will illustrate one of them projecting outward from the side of the house. The arch frame above is also on the outside. Looking at the rockery within rising up out of the aquarium, we find the following plants which do well in the constant evaporation of the water : Adiantum tenerum, cuneatum, formosum ; Davallia, pixidata ; Gymno- yrainma Peruviana ; Lomaria spicant ; onychicumjaponicum ; Pteris serrulata ; Selaginella calsia ; Selaginella, umbrosa, Africana ssrpens, and Wildenovii, with Acorus graniineus foliiis fol var ; Sihtliorpia Europcca ; Panicum variegntum ; Torrenia Asiatica ; Ficus stipularis ; Tradescantia sehrina ; Hoya bella, and JEschynanthus zebrinus WINDOW GARDENING. 183 We mention tho plants particularly, as perhaps some one may be disposed to copy the designs literally. We know of no form of Window Gardening so ex- quisite as this. A climbing vine may be twined around the outside of the win- dow casement. The water in the aqua- rium must be contained in a vessel with glass sides, so that all portions may be discernible to the eye. Fig. 45 is another of the designs for Window Gardens, similar to those des- cribed in our second chapter. Now it is peculiarly suitable to hardy ferns, and such native plants as the Partridge vine. Mosses, Lyoopodiums, etc. Fig. 46 is known as the Pickard Plant Case ; but we do not discover any special feature different from those constructed by Miss Maling. It contains the same metal box for the soil ; but instead of having the glass sides and top stationary, all are movable, and easily put up or Fig. 70.—Wardian Case, taken down. The glass sides all come in sheets, which fit each into a light frame of their own ; yet any one of these may be removed from the other without dis- turbing tiie rest. The front can be taken out in an instant by lifti.ig, or fixed back again in its place by a couple of hooks and eyes ; in short each side has a frame of its own, and when all are shut up together they are held firmly by hooks and eyes at top and ends. The interior of this case is filled with Cala- diums. Begonias, and other plants of colored foliage, as well as ferns. It is intended specially for a case of soft wooded plants, such as are usually grown in the pots of the greenhouse. A very pretty fern case is that of Fig. 47, also in the possession of Shirley Hibberd. The base is a stone vase, with hollow interior; the fot is a frame of wood ; inside the vase is a zinc pan, wherein the ferns are placed, and the frame of glass fits over the pan ; a couple of doors furnish access to the interior Fig. 7i.-wardian case. |g4 WINDOW GARDEIUN . and open or are closed by a little button fastener. The size is as follows : Height of vase and glass, 5 feet 9 inches ; width of vase, 2 feet ; height of glass frame, 3 feet. In the top of the glass frame Mr. Hibberd suspended four half cocoanut shells, in which he planted some ferns ; holes are cut iu the bottom for drainage ; and copper wire only used for hanging them. The contents are thus described by Mr. Hibberd in his Floral World : " This case contains at the present time two pretty climbing plants ; one is the common Ivy of the British woods, Hedera helix ; the other is Lygodium scandens, an elegant climbing fern. The palm- like fern in the centre is Nephrolepis exaltata — the finest fern in the world for a centre piece; both because of its character and also that it may be cut without spoiling it, if it happens to grow too tall. With it are examples of Pteris cre- tica albo-lineata, an elegant variearated fern ; Niphobolus lingua — a hardy tongue- like fern ; Onychium Japomcum, most delicately divided ; Pteris crenata, Las- trea glabella, Doodia caudata, Asplenium viride, and some bits of Selaginellas, Anemone nemorosa, and a few Mosses. The Ivy gained a footing quite by accident. This, with other of our cases, is frequently exliibited. On one occasion, in preparing some cases for a festive meeting, we introduced into this a number* nf little twigs of common Ivy among the ferns. The case was left undisturbed afterwards, and then on removing the Ivy one of them was found to have rooted. It was allowed to remain and it soon formed a rich shell on one side of the glass, without robbing a single fern of a ray of light. There it remains to this day ; it is now some nine years old as an in- habitant of this case, and is ss vigorous as ever. A few lengths of fine copper wire serve to train the Ivy and the lygodium, which add very much indeed to the beauty of this little garden. This case stands in the window, and has only the warmth of an ordinary room in winter. For a fern case to stand in the sunshine all the time, and with a room of high temperature, choose the following tender ferns : In the centre place a fine plant of the Cheilanthes farinosa ; then add here and there Anemidictyon, phyllitidis, Olfersia cervina, Diplazium radicans, Asplenium fragrans, Lomaria attenu- ata, Pteris calomelanos, Fadyema prolifera, and a few tufts of the Selaginella caesium and S. laevigata." Among fern decorations nothing is so striking, and yet so novel, as the fire brick. For filling a vacant fire place and making the screen appear ornamental, nothing is of better fitness. They are the invention of a physician. Dr. G. Churchill Watson, of Chester, England, and so constructed as to fit into the sides of walls of conservatories, ferneries and greenhouses, affording a convenient method of rendering a blank wall useful as well as ornamental. They are made of porous material, usually pottery, and round or oval shaped, with a concave centre, in which may be placed wet ferns, mosses or Lycopodiums. They arc of different sizes, from 31 inches in diameter to 14 inches, and adapted to the place where they are most needed. The largest can be "used to fit into the niche of an unused fire place, and the smaller ones can be used to fit the niches of a fern col- umn or pillar. A fern pillar is one of the curiosities our parlor gardeners do not WIND W GARDENING. J g 5 often behold; and j^et a glance at illustration No. 48, will show how pleasing such » decoration might be, anTEIl XX. The Oleander ; Bouvardia ; Mahernia Odorata. The Oleander is a native of the Holy Land, and Keble alludes to it as fol lows: "In the flowery land of Palestine it is always found wherever rivers or water courses invite its thirsty roots. The banks of the Jordan are clothed with this beautiful plant, aptly styled "a gem among flowers ; and it blooms at the overflow of that river, its roots being then partly nmersed in water; yet it will endure the extreme heat and baked soil of an E.islern summer when the brooks and rivers are shrunk into the nar- rowest streams." A rich turfy loa^m must be provided for it to grow in, and from the end of September until March or April, it should receive no more water than will pre- vent the soil from being crumbly ; and during the rest of the year it should have a most bountiful supply, and the tub or pot should be immersed in a saucer or a half tub filled with water. It is very easily propagated by cuttings during the spring or summer months. They should be taken from the young shoots and cut off close under the fourth ioiiit, cutting off the three lower leaves, but without injuring the bark of the stem. The most simple way of rooting them is in vials of rainwater, hung in the windows of a warm room. The cuttings should not be deeper in the water than half way up to the second joint. In a short time tiny white roots will make their appearance, and when these are about half an inch long, take it carefully out and pot in light sandy soil ; keep moist and shaded fiom the sun until the bright color of the leaves show that the roots are growing. Water and warmth will produce roots rapidly, but cannot sustain growth. So when cuttings are rooted in water, they should be transplanted as soon as the rootlets are from half an inch to an inch in length. D warf Oleanders that will flower the succeeding spring, when not over a foo high, can be produced as follows : Early in September or October, according to your climate, cut three to four joints from a topmost branch, leaving a joint at the end, strip ofi" the leaves, take a six inch pot filled with turfy loam, and a little moss at the bottom of the pot, press it firmly in, and make holes around the edge of the pot about an inch and a half apart, pour into each hole half an inch of sand, and plant the cut- tings firmly in it. Cover the top of the pot an inch deep with sand, saturate WINDOW GARDENING. 213 the whole with water, and see that each cutting is fixed and immovable with out a strong pull. Upon the close contact of cutting and soil depends half ol your success. Keep in a temperature not over 50° during the winter, and among the cuttings will be found several which have the heads of future bloom in the upper leaves, and the perfect flowers will expand by April or May. Of course the cuttings must not be allowed to become dry. Most plants col- lect during the summer a greater store of nutriment than is required for their support during the winter; so if cuttings of Oleander, Hydrangeas, Cacti, etc., are taken late in the season, they possess quite a store of nutriment, and will grow better, and flower more profusely. The only trouble is that these late cuttings require more care to keep them alive during the winter than if they had been made in the spring, but where there is no difficulty, there is no honor. Bouvardia. These winter blooming plants are invaluable in every conservatory or indoor garden. They are of a shrubby character, of the easiest culture and becom- ing exceedingly popular. They have the merit of being free bloomers, flowering in clusters of varied colors from pink to crimson, scarlet and white, and their flowers are considered excellent for bouquets. As plants for the decoration of the lawn, also, it is doubtful if they have any superior. In outdoor culture they will bloom from August down until cold weather, and if lifted within doors be- fore frost, they will continue blooming down until March. They are popular with every florist on account of their profusion of bloom, and the number and excellence of varieties seems to increase yearly. Still they are little known in any of our country homes or family flower gardens. They are essentially lovers of the hot house during the winter, needing a temperature at night of 55° to flower well. They are propagated chiefly from pieces of the roots, as cuttings do not grow easily; yet it is best for all amateurs at first to procure their plants already started, and then by degrees learn the art of reproduction. The plants require training, and the tops should be nipped off" frequently in the summer to give them a bushy shape. They are also tender, and a slight chill only will prove injurious. Give them a good supply of water when in full flower, less in summer. The usual melhod of culture is to let them grow during the summer in the common garden border ; then in the fall lift them, pack very closely in sand filled boxes, and store in the cellar to keep through the winter. If desired to bloom during the winter, cut back one-half the wood, water sparingly, place in the cellar for six weeks, then bring to the heat and light, give a copious watering, and in a few days you will have a fine bloom. The soil for potting should be loam, leaf mould, peat, and a little sprinkling of silver sand ; pot firmlj'-. If you wish immediate bloom, let the plants stand out doors in the fall, two weeks before you bring them to the conservatory, and 214 WINDOW GARDENING. then you will soon be repaid bj numerous clusters of bright, sweet-scented flowers. Our list of varieties, by constant improvement, has become quite excellent, but originally there were only two principal varieties, B. leiantha and Hogarth Angiistifolie has flowers of a very rich orange scarlet, a dwarf growth and neat foliage. It blooms constantly during the summer. Hogarth, bright scarlet, long tube, and splendid raceme, a very vigorous grower, and fine habit. Elegans, a sport from the Hogarth, light scarlet carmine, with the novelty and merit of flower trusses, of immense size, sometimes measuring 4 to 5 inches in diameter. Comes true from root cuttings. Ldanthe, bright dazzling scarlet ; an old, well known, and desirable variety. Jasminoides, a most valuable acquisition, discovered in a private collection of plants in London, England, origin unknown, but supposed to have been produced from seeds sent from South America. Its merits consist chiefly in its ease of propagation. By cutting, its growth is rapid, yielding an abun- dance of flowers of waxy whiteness, said to resemble the jasmine in appear- ance and fragrance. For bouquets and baskets of cut flowers florists esteem it invaluable. Vreelandii, a sport from Hogarth, pure white, a compact and vigorous grower, profuse bloomer, bearing tresses of largest size, readily propagated fiom root or top cuttings ; considered by many to rank at the head of the white varieties. Jasminoides compaeta, dwarf habit, white flower, yields a very agreeable fra- grance, and quite a profuse bloomer. Both this and the Jasminoides are very valuable for vases and drawing room boquets. 3Iahernia. A delicate little plant, always pleasing with its freedom of bloom. It is more properly called Ilermannia, named in honor of Hermann, a Dutch Botanist, yet among florists its popular name of Mahernia is still retained. Nothing can be more lovely than a pot of it in full bloom, thickly hung with its lemon-colored bell-shaped flowers, which possess the most delicious odor, resembling that of the Lily of the Valley. It is easily raised by cutting started in damp sand, and when they have struck, transplanted to pots filled with a peaty loam. It likes moisture, but not too much of it, and an application of liquid manure should be made once a week or so. The odornta is the variety usually grown, although there are other kinds. Hector and Diana, orange and pink. If too luxuriant, pinch in unsparingly. CH^FTER XXI. The Verbena, Petunia, Pyrethrum. Bedding plants like these are not to be recommended generally for window culture, still window gardeners will have them, and we can only give directions for their culture. Very great improvements have been made m the last few years in the Ver- bena, both in the size of the nidividual flowers and the form of its clusters; also in the great variety of its brilliant colors of crimson, scarlet, lilac, bluish pur- ple, and all their intermediate shades, with e)'^es of white, deep crimson, rose, purple, and yellow, and still others are striped and spotted. They are great lovers of the sun, will not thrive without it, yet will not grow in the hot, dry atmosphere of many sitting rooms, but require a cool room dur- ing the winter months, and a goodly share of fresh air when the frost is not in it. When grown as a house plant they must be placed close to the glass, and the mercury should not be over 50° during the day and less than 45° at night, until March. They do not like moisture in the winter, but should be kept a little dry ; when you do water, give a good supply, and pour away all that falls into the saucer. Shower the foliage weekly, to keep it clear of the green fly which injures it liicaily. The Verbena Mite, which produces the "black rust" upon these plants, is also very destructive to them, but plentiful showeriiigs and washings will keep it way. These plants are particular as to soil, blooming plentifull}' in sandy or clayey loam, if it is enriched with well decayed manure, or liquid stimulants. The young shoots root ver}'- rapidly, and they are to be selected to make plants for window gardens. The reason why many fail to keep them through the win- ter is, that they attempt to keep the old plants, or layeis from them, instead of striking cuttings in September or October from entire new growth. The sulphate of ammonia is an excellent fertilizer for Verbenas, giving the foliage a dark unen, healthy appearance, and it is easily prepared and applied. Dissolve one ounce of the ammonia in four gallons of warm water; it can be <:iven once a week. Keep the soil well stirred up in the pots; this is very essen- tial to the healthy growth of all pot plants, for their roots must have air to nourish well. The cutting.'* slioidd be pinched back to keep the plants stocky and robust. In raising them from seeds, the soil should be very sandy, and kept uniformly 216 WINDOW GARDENING. moist; the seeds should also be soaked before sowing. When the second row of leaves is well developed transplant the seedlings into shallow boxes. As a plant for a vase, either outdoors or indoors, the Verbena has few equals its bright cheerful colors and steady bloom being well calculated to please the fancy of any one. Many Verbenas are grown in the house during the summer season, although more pretty in the open garden border. Yet we suppose every one has their fancy and like to keep something pretty constantly on their window sill. Thej need only plenty of light and air ; not too much watering, and careful pinching A good soil for potting Verbenas is sand 1 part, loam 2 parts, and leaf mould or decayed manure 2 parts. Keep it well drained. If you have a conservatory place them upon a top shelf until ready to bring to the window for show. Damp ness causes mildew, and then comes the green fly, the destruction of which is secured only by fumigation with tobacco. If they grow too straggling, train them, and a convenient trellis or frame work may be made for them by using some of the wire or wooden frames used in floral stores, set sloping outward from the edge of the pots. The list of varieties is indeed formidable, and every florist has not only his fancies, but seedlings of his own year after year, so that new varieties are abundant enough not to attract any remarkable attention. Our bright summer sunshiny days are very suitable for the development of seeds ; hence our American florists are able in many cases to produce handsome varieties surpass ing those of Europe. Special List. Annie, one of the very best, white, striped with crimsor blooms constantly and vigorous grower, truss large. Black Bedder, very dark maroon, rich. Conspicua, ruby scarlet, with white eye. Colossus, crimson, violet eye, very large. Ceres, light blush, crimson eye. Decorator, light cherry scarlet, yellow eye. Diadem, large white, violet bordered. Enoch Arden, blush, crimson and maroon. *Formosa, large pink, white eye. * Gazelle, deep blue, clear white eye. Harlequin, pure white, striped and splashed with rosy carmine Ivanhoe, rich bluish purple, white eye. King of Blacks, deep maroon. Lafayette, scarlet crimson, vrith white centre. Fire Gleam, light scarlet, dwarf habit. Pink Beauty, bright pink, with white eye. , Purple Standard, rich dark purple, white centre. Silver Star, dark maroon, with large white centre. WINDOW GARDENING. 217 * Ultramarine, the best blue raised, very fragrant. White Beauty, purest white. Warrior, crimson maroon, violet eye. * Beacon, fine dark scarlet. Those marked with a star are considered best novelties for this year. Lists change so frequently, and new ones are formed so quickly, that many a variety becomes old and forgotlen in a few seasons. The public in this respect are de- pendent solely upon the annual announcements of the florists. We could wish good varieties might be a little more permanent and less shifting. The Verbena derives its name from the Celtic for Vervain, a common wild flower. It bears its flowers in long spikes, while the Verbena is a cluster flow- ered variety. The Vervain was called holy herb ; it grew plentifully on the Capitoline Hill at Rome, and was much used in religious festivals, and also em- ployed as a symbol in making treaties of peace. The Druids, of Great Britain, held it in high esteem, and used it in foretelling future events, and in casting lots ; but for these purposes the plant must be gathered " when the daystar rose at such a time as neither the sun nor the moon should be above the earth to see it," and also that before they take up the herb they bestow upon the ground where it greweth honey, with the comb, in token of satisfaction and amends for the violence done in depriving her of so holy an herb." The Vervain is said to grow in the vicinity of villages and towns, and never in the wilds, which has gained for it the name of " Simpler's Joy." The Verbena is found growing wild in Kansas, and there is a species called Verbena montane, which grows in our western territories, but its flowers are small compared to those we cultivate. Tlie Petunia. Here we meet some very charming favorites. The common single Petunias will grow in any soil, being usually quite hardy. The large double varieties are very fragrant and frail, and though easily raised for cuttings produce few if any seeds. Start cuttings in April or May, and plant them in damp sand, keeping it moist all the time. When rooted pot in rich garden loam and press the soil carefully around the roots ; keep in the shade until the roots begin to grow, then give it all the sunshine you can. Pinch off" the flower buds during the summer, to allow the plant to become bushy, and do not give too much water to make the sprouts spindle out. There are no handsomer house plants than the improved Double and Single Petunias, and their culture is very simple. Some varieties will iiain easily, and require a frame for support. The Double varieties are blotched and striped like Pelargoniums, or Picotee Pinks, and are exceedingly beautiful and attractive Among the finest are : 218 WINDOW GARDENING. Double. John Lyons, very large size, violet. Vtck's New Fringed, a new strain with fringed or frilled edges, various coloi s, long tube. Queen of White, pure white, too good for bedding out. B. K. Bliss, white blotched with violets. Dame Blanche, pure white. Dexter, crimson and white, marbled. Edward Beck, very large blush pink. Gov. Geary, white blotched with crimson. Mrs. Colt, pure white, striped and spotted with violet. Magnet, habit compact, growth very vigorous, flower white blotched, with purplish crimson. Measures often five inches in diameter. The best of all the doubles. The Single Varieties. Admiration, white, blotched with lilac. Ceres, pure white, purple throat. Enchantress, white carmine edges. Gen. Grant white, marked with fine crimson bars. Louisa, crimson, beautifully striped with white. Macidata, white blotched with lilac. Triumph, white edged with rose, purple centre. The Byrethrum. This is a species of Chamomile which also bears the name of Fever Few, and is of the same order as the Daisy and ChrysanLhemum. Its delicate green foli- at^e and pure white double flowers, make it a very beautiful jilant for house culture, and it is desirable for diessing the haii', and many other puijioses of ornament. It is ver}' hardy, will bear a severe frost without injuiy, and will live out in the coldest climates if protected by sods. It is projiagated by cuttings and divisions of the roots. The cuttings strike with great ease if the jjiece is kept in water a week; the roots will form very quickly. Thoy will grow in any soil, and prefer a shady location, where the^' will bloom in great perfection. Do this in March or April. The I'yrethiuui is also called Mountain Daisy, because it is a native of high places like the Caucasus and the Ural Mountains. An enthusiastic gardener describes the best of the named varieties as extreme- ly beautiful; "many of them are like Pompone Chrysanthemums; others like Anemone Chrysanthemums; others like Marigolds. Their colors range from purest white to the deepest crimson and purple, the shades of criuisou being particularly brilliant." CHA^P^TER XXII. The Mignonette. How to Form a Tree. Cineraria. Wall Flower. Stockgilly. The Mignonette, or Beseda odorata, is very desirable for winter bloom because its perfume is so delicious. Linnfeus compares its odors to those of Ambrosia, and it is sweeter and more penetrating at the rising and setting of the sun than at noonday. Its floral language is, " Your qualities surpass your charms," for its flowers are very insignificant when compared to the brilliant colorings of many others. For blooming in the house, the seeds should be sown in August, in the pots where they will bloom ; and when started, pull up all but three or four good strong roots, keep in a shady place, and pinch off" the top shoots to keep the jilants from straggling; give liquid manure once a week, and by November you will have a pot full of branches ; then let the buds form at their pleasure, and bo- fore December is out, the flowers will be in great profusion. For soil in the pots, use 3 parts loam, 1 part dung, and 1 part leaf mould. When water is applied, do so in the morning, so that the foliage may be dry before night. To have Mignonettes the year round, begin sowing as early as February, then again in April, in September and October. Thin out the plants as fast as they grow up, to but five in the pot ; shade from the sun, in the heat of the day, as otherwise the foliage might have a yellow and unsightly appearance. For training, five smnll stakes may be stuck into the pot at equal distances from each other, and tie the plant thereto. In thinning, keep the largest in one pot and the smallest in others so as to give a succession of bloom. If it is desired to cause any to bloom late, pinch off the tops of a few as soon as they begin to flower ; they will break out again and bloom three weeks or a month later than others of the same sowing. In boxes they are very pretty. It is best to grow them in pots first until just ready to bloom, and then transfer them to the box, where they can branch Jut and flower for a long time. The Mignonette is a native of Egypt and Barbary. In France and England it is much cultivated in boxes made to fit into windows and balconies. To Form a Tree. This is an interesting operation, and one particularly agreeable to window gar- deners, from the careful sui)erintendence it requires, as well as the singularity, 220 n^IADOW GARDENING. beauty and fragrance of the plant, and it shows so conclusively what lesults can be obtained from close pruning and attention. Some persons think that the Tree Mignonette is a distinct variety from the common kind grown in gardens; but it is not so ; upon the process of formation alone does the difference rest. Sow the seeds as directed above. The soil should be rather rich, but friable, not heavy. When the plants come up, thin out the weakest, so as to leave only one strong growing plant directly in the centre of the pot. Push a stiff" piece of wire down by the side of the plant, and when it is two inches high commence tying it loosely with a worsted thread to the wire, and keep it well supported. Every side branch that ap- pears from the main stem must be pinched off; but the leaves must be allowed to remain on the stem as their functions are needed for the health and support of the plant. In four or five months turn out the ball of earth to see if it requires a larger size; but do not give it unless the roots are curled around the edges of the ball. When the plant is a foot or more in height, according to the fancy of the cultivator, the side shoots can be per mitted to grow, but tliey must liave their heads Fig. 74. —Tree MiRiiiouette. pinched off" Occasionally, to force them to form a bushy top of ten or twelve inches in diameter. This • will be accomplished in from nine to twelve months, and then one plant will b* sufficient to perfume a large room. Every year it should be repotted, and it will bear an abundance of fragrant flowers for many seasons. The lieseda odorata, or Sweet Mignonette, is our most popular varietj'^, unless we except The Parsons Neiv White Mignonette, which is white also, but much more vigorous. The flowers are larger, but some do not consider the color any diffei cut or superior. In other respects it is, however, an improvement. The Cineraria. This plant is usually grown in pots or boxes, and it flowers abundantly during the greater part of the winter and early spring. The variety of its colors, the WIND OW GAUD EA'INO . 221 beauty of the leaves of some of the plants, and the spicy fragrance of others, makes it suitable for the smallest collection of plants. It requires a friable loam, and does not need the sun during the warmest part of the day in the summer. There are three methods of increasing this pretty plant : hy seed, which ripen abundantly in this country, and from which the various beautiful hybrid varie- ties recently intioduced have been obtained ; by cuttings, and by divisions of the roots. Seed sown in sandy soil in May, will make fine blossoming plants in January. Cuttings strike readily in damp sand or water. The dwarf varieties are quite an improvement upon the older sorts. The Wall Flower. The Wall Flower is an old fashioned flower, not much cultivated in these days of novelties. Yet many flowers, much less worthy of admiration, are seen, and the double varieties are particularly attractive, on account of their sweetness and peculiar colorings. We read in old literature of " The yellow Wall Flower stained with iron brown," and again " The rude stone fence with fragrant Wall flowers gay, To me more pleasure yield Than all the pomp imperial domes survey." Tradition associates with this plant one of her wildest fantasies : In ancient days a noble castle stood amid woods and wilds near the Trent, and a fair damsel had long been detained a prisoner within its walls, because she had given her young love to the heir of a hostile clan ; and although the youth was of equal birth, and renowned for feats of arms and strength, the deadly hatred of those fierce days forbade all thoughts of their marriage. Many stratagems did the youth devise to obta n possession of his love, but they had all failed. At length a serving woman came to his aid, and it was arranged that with a silken ladder she should descend the fearful height and meet her lover, and the poetry thus describes her fate : "Up then she got upon a wall, Attempted down to slide withal; But the silken twist nntied, So she fell, and bruised, she died. Love in pity to the deed, Aiul her loving Inckless speed, Tum'd her to this plant, we call Now, the Flower of the Walt" Hence, the Wall Flower has become an emblem of fidelity. The ancient Enghsh dames took much pleasure in cultivating this plant, and in wearing its hl(is>oms, so that the title of " Dames' Violet " was applied to it. The blossom is cruciform, having in its natural state only four petals ; but cul- tivation has changed the stamens into petals, as is often the case. It will not bloom until the second year from the seed, but if potted in Septemb r will bloom 222 WINDOW GARDENING. by March or April. Unless the soil is very rich the double flo'Vers will becomo single. Cuttings must be raised in sand)' loam, and then transplanted into rich soil, or they vrill degenerate from the parent plant. With but little care Wall Flowerg will live for many years and blossom profusely. Stocks. These are biennials, and blossom m the early spring of the second year from seeds sown in April. The later varieties are very beautiful, and make most showy and fragrant plants for house culture. The varieties most suitable for winter flowering are the German Brouipton, oj Cocardeau ; the flowers are very bushy ; the latter have a single stem and flowei and formed in the shape of a pyramid. These stocks are in the richest of colors, varying from scarlet, crimson, pink, ■purple, lilac, to white and cream-color. The roots can be lifted from garden borders into pots or boxes, and kept in the cellar until March, when they can be brought forward to the sunlight, and will soon be covered with their brilliant, fragrant flowers. If the seed has been sown in spring in the garden, the plants can grow until autumn, and then be transferred to pots for indoor culture, and flowering during the winter. If sown in July and August, and grown in pots, they will bloom the follow- ing spring and summer. The culture of Stocks for the window garden is destined to make them one of the most popular fancies of the amateur. Their bloom makes a most desirable display. CKL^r^TER XXIII. THE CARNATION. The Monthly Carnations are the species most in request for window gardens, as they bloom several times a year, though scarcely every month, excepting in California. There the soil and climate is peculiarly adapted to their needs, is exactly formed for their culture, and the flowers bloom in the greatest profu- sion, of the largest size, and in the most perfect colorings. Many of the best species are brought from Italy and Germany, and the im- ported seeds come from Erfurt, and some parts of Thuringia, where the cul- ture of the Carnation is a speeialite. There are three kinds of Carnations — Flakes, Bizarres and Picotees. The Flakes have only one color disposed in broad stripes on a pure white or yellow ground, and it extends through each petal from its margin to the base. The Picotees, from the French picoti, was formerly spotted with purple, scar- let or crimson spots on a yellow or white ground, but the florists have changed its character, and it is no longer a spotted Carnation, but one with all the color confined to a border around each petal. The Bizarres have two or more colors running from the margin to the base of the petal, in irregular stripes of purple, scarlet, cherry, pink or lilac, on a white or yellow ground. Each of these classes have passed through transformations, and there seems hardly any limit to the rare shadings, veinings and marblings which the flower has assumed. A good, rich compost is indispensable to the production of fine flowers; there is scarcely any plant to which a congenial soil is of so much im- portance. It does not like a wet soil, but one that is rich in leaf mould and perfectly decomposed cow or horse manure. Many years ago the weavers in various counties of England and Scotland were celebrated for their Carnations, and there were various receipts for composts which were jealously kept from the public. One of these receipts ran thus : " One half one year old horse manure, one-sixth good garden soil, one-sixth leaf mould, and one-sixth coarse sand. Mix together, and let it be exposed to the frosts all winter, turning it as often as possible." Carnations are propagated by seeds, layers and cuttings. The seeds should be sown in April or May, in sandy soil, under glass, and transplanted when two inches high. Layering is best done in July or August. Take a fresh, young shoot, strong and vigorous, which should be four or five joints in length ; strip off all the 224 WINDOW GARDENING. leaves nearest the root, leaving only those on the two or three upper joints. Stir up the soil about an inch, and fill up the pot with light, rich soil^ then take the shoot in the finger and thumb of the left hand, and bend it up- wards, inserting a sharp knife below the third joint from the top; cut upwards through the centre of that joint to about. half or three-quarters an inch above it ; tlien cut off the tongue directly under the joint, taking care not to cut it, as it will not make roots so well; the future roots will spring from this joint; any injury will prevent their formation. The incised shoot must then be gently pressed into the soil, taking great care not to break or crack it at the joint. As theie is considerable danger of breaking the shoots on account of their brittleness, it is well to place the plants in the hot sun, and withhold water; this will cause them to wilt, and become more limber; and as soon as the layer is well fastened into the ground by a thick hairpin, leave the point of the shoot well exposed. The plant must be well watered and set in the shade. Not more than a quarter of an inch of soil should be covered over the joint; and none of the leaves should be covered, because they will decay and commu- nicate it to the shoot, which will " damp off," as the gardeners terra it. If the plants are kept moist and shaded from the noonday sun, they will be rooted in three or four weeks. Then they can be cut off from the parent plant, with about half an inch of the stem which connects them to it, and planted in rich soil. Carnations are more hardy than many greenhouse plants, and require much air, and a cool atmosphere until the flower buds begin to form. The flower-pod or calyx, when nearly its full size, is apt to burst, letting out the petals at one side, which presents a loose, ragged appearance, and spoils the circular symme- try of the flower. This must be prevented by tying the calyx around with a bit of green wool or thread. Some make a ring from a piece of cardboard, and slip it over the bud, so it will keep the petals in regular form when the calyx bursts. Piopagation by cuttings is more difBcult than by layer, as they do not strike well without artificial heat. If soaked in water for twenty-four hours, they will root more quickly. A celebrated Carnation grower states that the chance of obtaining a handsome Carnation from seed is as one to a hundred. ilanure water will often force flowers upon barren plants. LIST OF VARIETIES OF CARNATIONS FOR PARLOR OR GREENHOUSE CULTnuB Bemontant or Monthly Carnations. Astoria, white ground, with yellow, red and scarlet colors. Bozzaris, blush mottled purple, clove scented. Brightness, large bright scarlet, very double, clove fragrance. Canary, yellow ground, slightly tinged rose. Darkness, very dark crimson. Defiance, deep crimson, large and fine. WINDOW GARDENINO. 225 Fortunii, crimson. Flatbush, snowy white, deeply fringed, very strong in habit, and profus«f bloomer. Little Beauty, carmine edge, yellow ground. S'lferino, dark violet purple, fragrant. Unique, pure white, fine form. Peerlesss, pure white, shaded with blush, large size flower, compact, brushy habit, and immense bloomer. Gen. Grant, pure white, blooming in clusters. De Fontana, Orange, shaded purple. J/a Glorie, red and yellow, very showy and attractive. Best Wiyiter Flowering Carnations. President De Graic, pure white, shaded with blush, very large, deeply fringed. La Purite, rosy pink, profuse bloomer, one of the best for winter flowering. Variegated Ln Purite, carmine, striped with black. Vaillante, richest scarlet, deeply fringed, very fragrant, dwarf in habit, and blooms profusely. Edwardsii, pure white, large and perfect flower. Donaldi's Pride, white, tipped with deep rose. 15 CHAPTER XXIV. Alpine Plants. Among the great number of plants, which are acceptable for Window Garden- ing, we rind the Alpine plant is one of the least cultivated for this purpose, On account of the interesting shape of most of these plants and the tiny space requued for them by their pygmy appearance, they ought to take the main part of the so said Lillii>ut Gardening. How is it, that even our nurserymen lack a good deal of the true Alpine plants in their collection of plants, and are in some ways to blame for the want of them amongst our decorated win. dows? The answer is easily fouml. It is the fault of the present fashion. Gardeners suppl}"^ their customers rather with Coleus, Verbenas, Pelargoniums, Heliotropes and other bedding plants, than with the exquisite fine Alpine plants, which, of course, cannot be propagated in so short a time as common bedding plants. The public is mostly sulistied with the latter plants, believing that the culture of Alpine plants is one of great difficulty. Most of all who have seen these beautiful, modest plants, with their vividness of color, displayed in endless variety in perfect loveliness on the fringes of the glaciers, near steep crevices or ghastly slopes, or in elevated plains and pastures, in Switzerland, Tyrol and Savoy, have learned to love and cherish tlie sweet flowers, and would like to grow them in their own home. For- merly, when cultivation of Alpine plants was accomplished only in botanical gArdens, many difficulties arose; but now, after much patience, experience and experiments, made with all kinds of tlie.se plants, the general error, that the true Alpine plants only grow on high mountains in a cool temperature, has thus been dispelled. It is a fact, that many Alpine plants which are found plenti- fully on elevated plains or near glaciers, do often grow and flower in valleys or lowland regions. Such are, for instar.ce : Gentiana havarica and verna, Dryas octopetala, Moehringia muscosa, Silene acaulis, Soldanella alpina, and several various kinds of Saxifraga. Some again, found near slopes or crevices, grow well in pots. Such are : Gtiaphalmmleontopodiu}n,(^Leont\}podium Alpinum'), various kinds of Primulaa, Primula Cortusoides and Acaulis, Aster Alpinus, Eamondia Pyrenaica, all Alpine. Sedum and Sevipcrrivum, Saxifraga umbrosa, Pyramidalis. Others, which are met within sight of or among fields of snow, or in places bej'ond our reach, are very difficult to cultivate, and therefore not fit for window decoration. We mention especially several kinds of Sarifragen; some Androsacen, Draba frigida Silene glacialis, Dinnthus glacinlis, Ran- nunculics glacialis, and others. Of Alpine plants, can be used those for Win- WIND W GA EDENiya. 227 dow Gardening, which bear well a hot summer. Of course, we need shady places for most of them. On the high mountains of the Alps, where in summer the temperature is much lowered at night, the plants like full light to spread forth the brilliancy of their colors. To protect now, by cultivating Alpine |)lants of durability, the same against high temperature during our long and hot summer, we recommend the following arrangement and treatment : Have a flat box made about ei^^ht inches bij^li, .uid v\ idt eiu)Uj,h as to be easily [ilaced into the window casing. Cover the box, which is best made of zinc, at the bottom with sand about an inch in depth, then arrange the pots in it accord- ing to their size. Give to plants of a tall grovvtli tlie centre, and surround them by the smaller ones. Then till up the spaces between each pot with a compost 228 WIND IV GARDENING of coarse saml, small stones or broken bricks, and some charcoal ; water this mixture well and cover it lightly with moss. By such management the plants in pots will have a cool moist stand, which is just required for Alpine plants. The soil for planting Alpine plants has to consist of a compost of leaf mould, rich loams, some peat, sharp sand and a few pieces of broken brinks ; for in- stance, inT Saxifragen, Sediim and Semperviuin. Another compost has on«- half of good rich loams, mixed up with one-half of leaf mould, a little sharp sand and charcoal. He, who has much peat on hand, mix it up with coarse sand and good old manure. Be careful in watering the plants ; do not give too much or too little water, but a sufficient moisture, piotect the plants against the WIiYDOW GARDENING 229 hot midday sun, keep the leaves clean, do not allow any worms to hurt the plants, keep off' the dust from the leaves with a sponge or syringe, and in accept- ing these prescriptions you will enjoy an excellent growth and good health of your Alpine plants. The following list contains only such Alpine plants which are adapted for AVindow Gardening and will stand a hot summer. These plants can be brought through the winter season in an unhealed room or cellar, leaving them in the same boxes and keeping them moderately moist. These fine boxes may stand also in the yard or garden, but must be lightly covered, when frosts begin, with dry leaves or a little mat, made of straw, which is placed six inches above the box. The plants will have, by following this rule, protection and cleanliness, and will pass the winter season well enough to show when brought out again iu March, the first lovely spring blossoms. List Of Alpine Plants for Window Gardening. Only such species, which are easily cultivated and to be had in American nurseries, or raised by seeds as other heibaceous plants : 1. Achillea toinentosa, with yellow flowers in spring, and downy leaves, of a dwarfish growth. 2. Adonis verYMlis, with large yellow flowers in spring, on the stalks, about ten inches high, useful for the centre of a group. 3. Alyssum saxatile compactum, with fine yellow flowers in spring, of a dwarf habit and nice appearance. 4. Anemone nemorosa, with pair rosy flowers. 5. Anemone angelosa (^Hepaticd), with beautiful blue flowers, which appear very early in spring. 6. Anemone hepatica (Hepatica triloba'), with red, blue and white flowers, and varieties with double flowers, and of a dwarf habit. 7. Anemone ranunculoides, the golden yellow wood Anemone, height, five or six inches. 8. Antennaria tomentosa, a very dwarfish silvery leaved plant ; a native of the Rocky Mountains. 9. Arnhis alhida fol. variegata, a native of the mountains of Greece, and of a dwarf habit; flowers are white and blue, leaves beautifully variegated. 10. Armeria vulgaris, a ver}- pretty little plant, with soft hlac or white flow- ers springing from dense cushions of grasslike leaves. 11. Aster alpina, the blue daisy of the Alps, of dwarf habit and large pale blue flowers with a deep yellow eye. 12. Bellis per emits, fl. pi., with white and red flowers. 13. Calandriniaumliellata., a native of Chili, of a dwarf habit, with crimson flowers like the Portulacca. 14. Campamda Garganica^a, fine dwarf Harebell, with kidney shaped downy leaves and bluish purple flowers. 230 WINDOW GARDENING. 15. Campanula pulla (^pusilla), with dark blue or white flowers; plants of a diminutive habit, a very fine little plant. 16. Campanula Eai7iera,si very dwarf species with large dark blue flowers; a native of the Italian Mountains. 17. Cerastium tomentosum, a very fine little creeping plant with silver white leaves and star like white flowers, and of easy propagation and cultivation. 18. DianthusChinensis nana Jl. 2^1 -, the dwsir( China, pink in various colors. 19. Dryas octopetala, a native of European and American mountains, with creeping stems and large creamy white flowers. 20. Erinus alpinus, a very neat and distinct little plant of the Alpine, Tyrolean and Pyrcnaan mountains, with violet purple flowers, in short pubescent racemes ; of a very dwarfish habit. 21. Gentiana acaulis (^Gentiana vernd), species of a dwarf habit and very large beautiful blue flowers. 22. Gypsophila saxifraga, plant of dwarf, mosslike habit, with fine white flowers. 23. Hcliantliemum vulgare, the little sunrose with single and double flowers of white, yellow and red colors ; it is easy to propagate by seed. 24. lioleia japonica, fol. var., a fine plant, with beautiful variegated leaves^ and with spikes of very fine white flowers. 25. Iberis sempervirens, a very fine little plant, with dark green leaves and fine large white flowers. 26. Leontopodium alpinum (^Gnaphalium Leontopoduun), the "Edleweiss," translated "Nobly white," of the Tyrolian or Switzer Alps; a very pretty plant with downy leaves and beautiful white leaflets around the pale yellowish flower. 27. Lotua corniculatus, an interesting plant with yellow flowers, and of a creeping habit. 28. Lychnis Haageana, has large flowers of a splendid scarlet or crimson, and stems from eight to ten inches high. 29. Myosotis alpestris, the Alpine Forget-Me-Not, with beautiful blue flowers; propagated from seed. 30. Myosotis Azorica, a native of the Azorcan Islands, of dwarf habit, with beautiful dark flowers. 31. Myosotis palustris, the common Forget-Me-Not with pale blue flowers. 32. Nirembergia rivularis, a very beautiful little plant with the habit of a Daisy and with large cuplike flowers of a cream}' while tint. 33. (Enothera putnila, a very dwarf species from the Rocky Mountains, with small yellow flowers. 34. ^'Jnothera taraxacifolia, a native of Chili, and profuse flowering ; flowers are very large white with a rosy tint. 35. Ow2;7iaZoies fcrna, the large creeping Forget-Me-Not with beautiful blue flowers. 36. Phlox setacea {Phlox subulata), tht moss pink with beautiful p'nk, oi WINDOW GARDENING. 231 seldom with white flowers; plant of a creeping habit, but of profusion of spring flowers. 37. Phlox reptans (Phlox repens verna), another creeping American species, with very fine flowers of a pink or mauve color. 38. Plumbago Larpentce, a very dwarf, shrubby-like plant, with slender wiry branches, covered with light green leaves, and in September with close trusses of fine blue flowers at the ends of the stems. 39. Primula eortusoides. This species is most fit for Window Gardening in regard of its easy culture; it is a native of Siberia, and bears early in spring fine pink flowers. 40. Primula acaulis fl. pi., of very dwarfish habit, and double flowers of white pale lilac, red, yellow and purple double colors ; shape like small roses. 41. Pysidansthera barbulaia, a very interesting American plant, growing in the pine barrens of New Jersey and Carolina, of a moss-like habit, with beauti. ful white flowers, which are in not opened buds of a fine rosy tint; a very pretty species ; requires sandy peat soil. 42. Pamondia pyrenaica, also a very distinct and interesting form ; very dwarf in habit ; leaves stand in rosettes and close on the ground ; the large flowers on stems of five or six inches in length, are of a purple violet, with orange yellow centre; native of the Pyrenees. 43. Sanguinaria canadensis, the Blood Root, an interesting American plant of dwarf habit, and with white flowers early in spring. 44. Saxifraga aisoon, a native of high European and American mountains with leaves standing like silvery rosettes; a very showy little plant. 45. Saxifraga cotyledon, habit like silvery rosettes, with elegant pyramids of white flowers. 46. Saxifraga hypnoides, the mossy sasifraga forms, mossy tufts of the deep- est green, with small white flowers. 47. Saxifraga umbrosa, a very interesting species, with broad dark green leaves and red spotted white flowers. 48. Saxifraga sarmentosa and Saxifraga Sieboldii fol. variegata, both species very well known, are suitable for Alpine groups. 49. Sedum acre and hexangulare, the common stpnecrop with j-ellow flowers. 50. Sedum dasyphyllum., one of the most interesting Alpine plants of a glaucous color, with creamy white flowers. 51. Sedum Sieboldii fol. var., an elegant well known plant, with light pink flowers in summer and fall. 52. Sedum carneum variegatum ; species with fine variegated leaves. 53. Sempervivum arachnoideum, the cobweb houseleek from the Alps and Pyrenees, with fleshy leaves in tiny rosettes, covered at the top with a white down-like spider web. 54. Sempervivum montanum', the leaves are very regularly arranged in fine Jj^ftt green rosettes. 232 WINDOW GARDENING. 55. Sempervivum Calif or nicum, a larger species; leaves are of a dark green color, with reddish margin and dark points. 56. Silene alpestris, a very fine plant of dwarf habit and pure white flowers. 57. Silenemaritimafl.pl. The leaves of this species are of a glancous color, and the flowers are like small snowballs. 58. Soldanella alpina, a lovely little plant of an interesting appearance, with leathery, shining, roundish leaves and beautiful blue bell-shaped, fringed flowers. 59. Thymmzerpillifolium fol.var., the variegated Thyme. GO. Viola cornusa, the Pyrenean Violets with very large blue and white flow- ers which appear numerously during the summer season. Finally, we observe, that in a collection like the preceding one, many plants could be added, which would match well with the Habitus of Alpine plants but which would anyhow require another treatment ; for instance, n warmer place for the winter season, while others are in a resting state during the summer. Such are: Cyclamen Coum, Fersicum, rej)andum, vernuni,Euroj)aeum, hede- raefulium ; Echeveria secunda, glaucovirenSy gibbiflora; Linaria cymbalaria; Spigelia Marylandica ; Scilla Sybirica, amoena, praecox; Leticojum vernum; various kinds of Crocus and Snoiodrops; Iris pumila; Sibthorpia Europoea; Portulacca flore pileno ; dwarf kinds of Mesembrianthemum, Saponaria ocymoides; Sanvitalia procumbens flore plena; Nycta vine capensis; Sedum caeruleum; Grammanthes Gentianoides, lonopsidium acaule, and various kinds of Nemophila Miscellaneous Plants. Tlie Azalea. This has of late years become a popular window plant, and most justly, too, for with their profuse masses of flowers they make every window or balcony a bower of bloom. The plants should have a light dry soil, of leaf mould and loam. The best for this purpose is a mixture two parts loam, rich vegetable matter ; two parts rotten peat from the swamp, and one part sand, and be sparingly watered — yet the roots must never become dry. They need a temperature of 65° by day, and at night coolness of 40° to 45°, for rest. While dormant they need shade and but little water, but when the flower bids are swelling, they desire more. It is a Slirub that needs little pruning, only enough to keep in good form. The usual months for blooming are April and May, but a succession of bloom can be kept up from February to May, by storing in the cellar the previous winter, in a cool place, dormant plants of the chosen varieties, then bringing them one by one to the window, where they are hastened into bloom. When done blooming, take them away, and fill their places with new ones. Ordinarily, after Azaleas have done blooming, it is best to set the plants in the shade out of doors until September. If desiied to propagate new plants, take cuttings in May, in moist sand under glass ; but since so good plants are pur- chased at so cheap prices at the florists, propagation for window purpose only is not worth the trouble. Most of the varieties brought to the window will bloom for three weeks ; yet some will last six weeks ; by bringing up new plants successively, the blooming sea- son, may be extended several months. The following is a select list of those most suitable for window purposes. Those with a star are the most desirable of the collection : Arnoena, very early. Amarantina^ rosy purple. Belle Gantoire, rose and striped with white. *Charles Quint, rose. Criterion, light salmon, edged with white, upper petals spotted with crimson. Delicata, rose. Exquisita, violet pink, edged with white. 234 WINDOW GARDENINft. Indica alba, white. * Fielden, white ; very early. * Minerva, scarlet ; profuse. Modele de Marque, splendid form ; rose. Grande Dutchesse de Bode. Iveryana, white, striped with rose. Perfection, rose ; good form. ^ Vittata crispifiora. Vittata, variegated. * Punctata, splendid, variegated. * Punctata omnicolor, early bloomer. ^ * Narcissiflora plena, six weeks in bloom. President, scarlet. Tlie Daphne. Of all woody plants that are suitable for parlor culture, the Daphne, especially Daphne odorata, deserves the first mention, for it flourishes under the most adverse circumstances ; patiently putting forth group after group of its dark glossy evergreen leaves, each group through the winter months wearing right royally its cluster of pearly blossoms, whose delicate throats constantly distil a most delicious fragrance. In foliage this shrub greatly resembles the laurel, and hence bears the name of that beautiful maiden who being beloved by Apollo, but not favoring his suit, besought the gods for aid in escaping him, and in answer to her prayers was changed into a laurel-tree. Though the Daphne is capable of enduring heat and dryness, it grows most luxuriantly in a cool, moist atmosphere ; and it should be frequently syringed with tepid water, its leaves kept clean with water by washing them often with a soft sponge. Give it a soil of garden earth mixed loosely with a little vegetable mould or stable refuse and a small quantity of sand. In May prune it closely to make it grow tall and symmetrical; at the same time repot it, and then keep the plant in the shade with slight watering till September; then give it sunshine and water freely. In early October take it to the parlor. Of the prunings make new plants by immersing the stems in a bottle of water and keeping the bottle in the sunlight till it is filled with white fibrous roots ; these roots are very tender, and when they are placed in soil care must be taken not to injure them. The young plant must be kept under a bell-glass or an inverted tumbler for a fortnight, with a scanty sprinkling of tepid water every morning. It should have the sun three hours, at least, each day; but make the air of the room moist and lot it not rise above 58° by day or 45° by night, if you would promote its rapid and healthy growth. It blooms almost constantly from December to the last of March. The Abutilon. A beautiful parlor tree is the Abutilon, with its maple-like foliage, and its bell flowers of gold and crimson. It needs a light sandy loam, for if the soil is too WINDOW GARDENINO 235 rich it will grow too tall to form a handsome shaped tree. Ordinary garden soil loosened with sand will answer. If the air of the room it occupies is too close and hot, it will not bloom, so give it air frequently, shielding it from draughts as you would a geranium, and water it well. It grows easily from cuttings ; prune in spring, and root the best of these prunings in wet sand to get new plants. Abutilon striatum is hardly ever out of flower; its bells are of a golden yellow, veined with brown, and they are very graceful and lovely. Abutilon venosa has larger flowers, with deep red veins, and is very hand- some. A Marmaratum is a charming hybrid, blossoming all the year, and producing white flowers, marbled and veined with rose. A Mesopotanicum is a species which differs in the shape of both flowers and leaves. The calyx being scarlet, with golden yellow petals, the flowers beauti- fully marked; they hang in regular rows down the flexible branches, and are very valuable for cut flowers. A Thompsonii is another distinct variety with variegated leaves, its leaves being mosaiced with yellow. A Santana is a new plant with flower bells of a much larger size, and of dark brownish crimsom, veined with orange color; it is the darkest sort cultivated. A album is pure white, and very much admired. The Orange. Small orange trees are very desirable window plants, on account of their ex- quisitely fragrant flowers, and beautiful evergreen foliage which contrasts finely with other plants. The prettiest for house culture are the dwarf varieties, and tlie dwarf Mandarin or China orange bears excellent fruit. The dwarf Otaheite is a more common kind, but not as suitable ; for neither its flowers nor fruit equal those of the Mandarin. Early in the eighteenth century, orange trees were quite the fashion for house culture, and although the fashion has passed away, there are few plants that still combine so much perfection in foliage, fruit and flower. Oranges are usually raised from seed, and in a year or two, grafted from a fine variety. Seeds sprout readily in any light loam, but the orange blooms the finest in good rich soil, and requires liquid manure once in a fortnight or even oftener. The foliage is handsomer, if the pot stands a little away from the full noonday sun. The Lemon. The Lemon belongs to the same genus as the Orange vim.: the Citrus, to which also belong limes, shaddocks and citrons; all the species are characterized by fragrant flowers, glossy evergreen leaves, and delicious fruits. The golden apples of the Hesperides are supposed to belong to this family. Fine trees are raised from seeds, and when the shoots are two years old they 236 WINDOW GARDENING can be budded from fruitful trees. The blossoms of the Lemon arcsmalloi than those of the Orange, and they are not as purely white, the under side ot the petals being tinged with purple. Oranges are over a year in ripening, and often remain for two years on the tree. Lemons ripen irregularly, and fall off when ripe. Every six or seven years both orange and lemon trees should be pruned closely. Shorten in the shoots several inches, and they will throw out an abundance of fresh green leaves. If they flourish well, they will not need repotting oftener than once in five or six years. Then the mouldy roots, and smallest fibres should be cut back, and the ball of earth well shaken off. Pot in soil of light loam, leaf manure, and two years' old cow manure, equal parts, with a good sprinkling of charcoal dust. Keep in the shade for two or three weeks, and water less frequently than when in flower. It loves the light, but not the hot sun until the fiuit is ripening. The Sweet Verbena. The Sweet Verbena or Aloysa citriodora, is much cultivated for its lemon- scented foliage. Any soil will suit it, but in rich loam it makes a more vigorous growth. It is of a deciduous habit, will lose its leaves, and its admirers grieve when they fall, but like the elm and the maple, it buds out afresh in March or April, and from the old wood, cuttings will strike as easily as currant cuttings. When its leaves have fallen, it can stand in any dark, cool place where the frost will not touch it, and where the roots can be kept rather dry It makes an ornamental standard plant, if trained to a single stem to a height of three feet, and then allowed to branch out in a graceful form. The young shoots will strike root in May or June, if planted under glass, and well shaded for awhile. The flowers are borne in large spikes and are very minute, white, but not much esteemed, as the foliage is the most desired part of the plant. Its generally neat appearance always gains much admiration. Trim old plants and i-epot them in the spring. Root the trimmings in wet sand, under a glass; then give those young plants a soil of garden earth, vegeta- ble mould and gravel in equal proportions. Set the pots in a garden-bed, plunged to their rims, till September; then stir the soil often with an old table-fork, water sparingly, givnig liquid manure once a week ; take them to the parlor in October, let them have the sun six hours every day, keep the atmosphere moist, and liot above 05° by day or 45^ by night, and they will flourish wonder- lully. Eupatoriums and Stevias. By reason of the contrast of their delicate blossoms and graceful foliage, with those of the Geranium, the Eupatorium and Stevias deserves high rank, as popular favorites. The eupatorium gets its name from Eupater, king of Ponfus, who first used the plant in medicine. We have many species growing in their native beauty in the lovely mountain passes and valleys of the North, as well as WINDOW GARDENING. 237 in the sunny meadows farther South ; and the florist has transplanted them and carefully watched and tended their growth till the foliage has attained unwonted smoothness and beaut}', and the hues of the tassel-shaped flowers have become clearer and brighter. Their large clusters of snow-white, or lilac blossoms, have a fine effect among geraniums, and they have always been much sought after as a winter blooming flower. The white varietiesare most cultivated, being used for funeral crosses, and crowns, also for wedding bouquets. They prefer a sand}"-, peaty loam, with a good supply of water. In the spring, after blooming, shake out the old soil and repot in good loam and sand mixed in equal proportions. Make new plants of the cuttings. Start them in damp sand under glass. Water them much and frequently. Set them in the garden till September, then accustom them gradually to the indoor atmosphere. They will bloom from November till February. When in flower they .do not need much sunshine, as it dims the whiteness of the flowers. Eupatorium ageratoides , E. Mexicanum and E. elegans are the varieties most usually cultivated in conservatories and window gardens. They are of a beautiful feathery whiteness, and most desirable for purposes of decoration. In saving the seeds, cut the flowers while in full bloom, as they ripen quickly, and fly away, but they germinate easily. The Stevias, of similar foliage, but a yet more delicate and feathery flower, of a creamy white, cultivate in the same way. Pinch out all buds that appear on these plants duiing the summer. No plants can be so effectively grouped as geraniums with heliotropes, eupatoriums, and stevias, if proper attention is paid to an agreeable contrast of their blossoms, — the purple or lilac being always flanked with white — never with red or crimson or rose, — and the white mingled among scarlets, crimsons, reds, and salmons — the white predominating. The Chinese Primrose. The Primula Chinensis is the gem of the collection of window plants. None surpass it in beauty; and for continuous bloom, certainly none can be found more desirable. It is one of the best of all plants for the decoration of the drawing room or dining table, and always at home in the conservatory or greenhouse. For nine months out of the twelve they may be made to yield flowers, though most profusely from November to May, and with their colors of red, white, crimson, purple, and pink, they form objects of curious ornament. They are objects of easy care, requiring attention only in watering; the soil should not be allowed to get dry, and yet the roots are so tenacious of life, they will cling closely till the last moment around any particle of moisture in the earth. Keep the soil moderately moist, but not over saturated ; if evaporation or drain- age is slow, and the circulation through the pot impeded, the plants will turn sickly and die otf. We do not advise manure water; plain warm water is the best. The best varieties for window gardens are the Double White Primroses and rubra plena, a double red variety, indescribably charming. The single fringed varieties are very fine, but the above are now the most popular. One 238 WINDOW GARDEKIXG. great advantage which the Primrose possesses over most winter flowering plants is that it is rarely ever infested with green fly or other troublesome pests. Primroses are propagated mainly hj cuttings and seeds. Cuttings taken from the side shoots in April will make vigorous plants by autumn. From June to Octo- ber they should be kept from the hot sun, in a shady location, with but little water. The soil should be largely composed of leaf mould. The single varieties are largely grown from seed which should be sown in April or May, under a square of glass; when four or five leaves are developed, plant in small thumb pots, and shade for two or three days. During the summer keep the pots in a shady location, but in the winter the nearer they are to the glass the better and brighter will they flower. If any unusually fine flowers reward your care, they can be increased by cut- tings. The Primro.se is a perennial ; the seed is usually sold in mixed colors, hut they can be recognized nearly as soon as the leaves appear, by the color of the stems. No plant flowers more profusely, and somethnes five hundred florets are gathered from one plant. llie Pansy. The Pansy never blooms so well as when the plant is small and well rooted, for as it increases in size the blossoms become smaller, and, although abundant, inferior. They can be cut back after spring flowering, and all the buds kept off* until December, then they will bloom for the whole winter. If planted in boxes in a conservatory or window, they make a fine show; indeed, there are few plants more desirable for window gardening. They are most easily raised from seed, and it is well to purchase the most ex- pensive varieties, so as to be certain of the finest flowers. Cuttings strike quickly, and aie more sure of fine flowers, as they always re- produce the parent plant. They should be cut about three inches long, and taken from the points of the shoots, and cut oft" directly under the joint. Strip off" the lower leaves, and insert them in saucers of wet sand, pressing it closely around the joint. Keep tumblers over them, and in six weeks they will be well rooted and ready to transplant into small pots filled with the richest compost. Pansies are gross feeders, delighting in the richest soil you can prepare ; in rotten tanbark, leaf manure, and cow manure, equal parts, they will bloom mag- nificently. No plant is better adapted to house culture, as the)'' can bear changes of atmos- pheie, and a good deal of water, while their bright fiices are very attractive in the gloomy wintry days. They can be increased by dividing the roots, and keeping them in the shade for a week or ten days. If the amateur desires to save seed from her plants, she should select the largest, brightest flowers, and cut off all other buds and blossoms. As the seed pod matures it can be tied up in gauze to prevent the seed from scattering, and when fully ripe, can be planted directly in sandj' loam. When the seedlings flower those should be rejected that are not very handsome WINDOW GARDENING. ^39 The best location for Pansies is a northwest window, for they delight in shade, and desire to shun " the gairish eye of day," and hide their lovely blossoms from his scorching rays. TJie Sweet Violet. These require a rich compost to enable them to bloom luxuriantly, and a cool temperature, say 40° to 45° ; all the fading leaves must be cut off. and if the plant is desired to bloom profusely, the runners should also be cut off as soon as they appear. Water must not settle at the roots. The}"^ are propagated by divisions of the roots, or usually by cuttings taken in June, and raised in wet sand under glass. The dark blue English variety, or the double blue Neapolitan, are most gen- erally cultivated as parlor plants. Tlie Czar or Russian Violet has been much admired ; leaves are large and the flowers are borne on very long footstalks, five to si.'c inches in length. The flower is single, but large, and fine ; color of a light blue ; blooms all winter from Sep tember to May, and fills the air with its delicious fragrance. King of the Violets. Flowers very double, like a miniature rosette, very fra grant, color of a deep indigo blue, with occasional stripes of white ; flowers borne in profusion. Double Blue Neapolitan, the best standard sort we have. A bouquet com- posed of a statuesque camellia, embedded in blue violets, with a fringe of cliver or gypsophila, is the pei-fection of floral arrangement, combining beauty, fra- grance and grace. The Daisy. Its botanical name, Bellis, signifies beautiful, pretty. Cultivation has given to it many petals, and also brighter hues. It is frequently used in this country as an edging for beds and borders, but it is a pretty plant for house culture, with its tufts of lovely green leaves crowned with numerous bright pink blossoms. It flourishes best in a rich soil, and is propagated by offsets, or division of the roots. For winter flowering, the pot should be kept in the shade, with little water during the hot weather — only enough to keep it from drying up — till the first of October. Then it will need all the sunshine to make it bloom well, and liquid manure will greatly increase its blossoms. The Daisy will bear transplanting, even when in flower, if the s«il is kept about the roots. Every spring fresh earth should be given, and the roots should be divided. The Belgian^ Daisy is best adapted to house culture. Tlie Calla. (^Eicliardia.) The Calla ^thiopica is a very attractive plant, its large, broad, glossy, green (eaves, and its white, thickly textured, scroll-like blossom making it peculiarly graceful. There is no better plant for the centre of a group of flowers. 240 WINDOW GARDENING. It blooms equally well in greenhouse, conservatory or window garden ; may be allowed to be rather dry in the summer after flowering, but care should be taken not to injure or break off the leaves. When budding it requires much water, and its saucers should be supplied night and morning. It is propagated by suckers and divisions of its roots. It desires a clayey loam with a third of leaf mould. It is very tender, feeling a slight chill. Its flowers are in great request at Easter to adorn the churches, when white lilies are sought as emblems of the risen Redeemer, and the florists grow them in large quantities for this purpose. The best method of growing Callas is in a hollow stand lined with zinc ; eight or ten flowering bulbs can be planted in a stand three or four feet long, and eighteen inches wide. It should be eight inches deep, and the surface of the pots should be covered with moss, and moss filled in between the pots. Its appear- ance is exceedingly ornamental in a bay window, and it is very easily taken care of, the chief essential being plenty of water, and a weekl}"^ sponging of the large leave? ; and the stand should be occasionally turned, as the large leaves turn towards the light. Such a stand of Callas can be set out of doors in a shady place during the summer and brought in before fear of frosts. Soon they will make vigorous growth, and will flower abundantly from December to May. No flower better endurp..s furnace heat and gas, and so it is particularly adapted to window cul- ture. Bielytra Spectabilis. For window flowering and conservatory, this plant is very valuable. Take up the tuberous roots in October, in a six or seven inch pot, and set in a sheltered place for a month or so, giving a little water daily, and keeping it warm. When the shoots appear, brmg to the light, and give it as sunny a situation as i)ossible, but the atmosphere need not be warm. It will do well in a chamber window where the temperature is about GO''. As it grows and produces more flowers, increase the supply of water. It will grow best in light sandy. loam, but enjoys a weekly measure of liquid manure. When done flowering, set in a shady place, but give water in small quantities as long as the leaves are green ; when they fade, give only enough to prevent its dying from thirst, and in the followmg autumn proceed as above, giv- ing a fresh supply of soil to make its blossoms more plentiful. It multiplies from the root, and must be given enough pot room, or its roots divided yearly. Tlie Calceolaria. The Calceolaria, — its name comes from the Latin for shoe — the blossom resem- bles an ancient Roman slipper, — is singularly beautiful with its heavy clusters of golden, crimson, maroon, or rose-colored flowers — sometimes plainly tinted, at others curiously mottled and flecked. It needs a sandy soil — garden earth and common sand in equal proportions ; should be kept rather warm, in an atmos- WINDOW GARDENma. 241 phere of 60° to 65° by day, and 50° at night ; and be sparingly watered. Give liquid manure once a week after tlie flower-buds stail. Pot old plants in May, in the same manner as eupatoriums, and keep them in a warm but shady place, out of doors, till September, with only water enough to prevent them from droop- ing. Before potting cut them in closely, and make new plants of those cuttings by rooting them in moist sand under a glass, in the sunshine ; or plant the see in a sunny and sheltered spot. In August pot them and tie carefully to a light trellis till they are two feet high, then trim off the most slender branches — in fact cut them in pretty close and let them stand alone. This is a delicate plant, but may be strengthened and hardened by this close trimming and a careful management of its supplies of heat and moisture. It needs a good deal of air — does best when wide breathing space is allowed. The Lantana. The Lantana requires similar soil and treatment to the Calceolaria — except that it is of a stouter, a more woody nature, and needs no support. Its compact head of flowers of diflerent and changing hues — white, crimson, scarlet, orange, and yellow, sometimes all in the same spike, is always an object of great in- terest, though its peculiar perfume is not universally agreeable. The Pyrethrum. A very desirable window plant is the Pyrethrum, sometimes called Mountain Daisy ; it is found in great profusion in the mountainous regions of Asia. This will grow in ordinary soil with very little care, and its delicate light green foliage, crowned with dense clusters of snow-white blossoms, contrasts finely with the deeper colorings of Calceolarias and Lantanas. Old plants should be cut to their roots, and both roots and cuttings be set in a garden-bed in May or June, and treated as common out-of-door plants. Pinch out all flower-buds till they are taken to the house. In September pot them with the same soil in which they have been growing. Keep them in the shade, with occasional watering, for a fortnight, then bring them within doors. The Pyrethrum does best in a mod erate temperature with scanty watering. TJie Chrysanthemums. The Chrysanthemum (it gets its name from the Greek words for gold and flower — many species bear yellow flowers), though commomly classed with out- of-door plants, should be made to lend its beauty to every parlor through the months of October, November and December. After flowering, Chrysanthemums must be set in a dark, cool place — a cellar, or any damp dark place where they will not freeze — till May. Then give them the same treatment as Pyrcthrums, with which they are often classed ; but they require free watering. Soapsuds will make them grow stout and strong through the summer. After they are potted give liquid manure twice a week till the buds begm to unfold, then with- hold it entirely 16 242 WINDOW GARDENING. A very desirable feature of the Chrysanthemum as a winter blooming plant, is that the blossoms are finely formed, of brilliant colors, keep well, and are pro- duced in great abundance. The dwarf or Pompone varieties are nov the most used ip consequence of their beauty of form, with diminutive habit of growth Any florists' catalogue will give a good list of varieties. The Ch. laciniatum has a novel and elegant appearance. The flowers are double, nearly three inches in diameter, delicately fringed, and of the purest white. It is especially a plant for winter flowers. By pinching off the flower buds as they show, it can be had in flower from December to March. The Salvia. Another splendid flowering plant, which has been supposed, until recently, to expend all its energies during the autumnal months, and to require the open air for the [jerfection of its beauty, is the Salvia. Salvia angustifolia, with its ele- gant foliage and long spikes of clear blue flowers, is particularly fine ; so is S. patens, bearing blossoms of a still more " heavenly hue ;" yet none arc so attractive, nor so hardy, as S. splendens, with its plumes of dazzling scarlet. Any of the Salvias are easily raised from cuttings ; trim all the foliage from these slips and set them in damp sand to root. Start them in May. When rooted set them in the garden, but keep them shaded from the sun with a paper screen till the new leaves are well developed. Water freely. In September pot those vou wish for the house, and pinch out the buds. If then left to themselves they will store up strength for the winter. But before the frosts come, be sure to take them within doors, and give the fertilizer once a week till in bloom. Cut them to the root in Ma}--, and set the root in the garden. It is best to start new plants every year for the house. Salvias need a light loamy soil, and a tempera- ture of 60° by day, and 45° by night. The Mimulus. The Mimulus — its seeds resemble the face of a monkey, and hence its name, which comes from the Latin — is a very thirsty plant, does best in a mixture of leaf mould and garden earth, with just enough sand to keep the soil from being lieavy, and frequently needs watering twice a day ; but it thrives in the atmo.s- phere of any family room, and with its gorgeous blossoms of gold spotted with maroon and crimson, is a gieat addition to any collection. Propagate it from cuttings rooted in water. The young plants should be kept in the shade all sum- mer out of doors Pinks. V'mks—Dianthus Chinensis, the China Pink, and Dianthus caryophillus, the Carnation — are well known parlor plants. The China Pink, though not fra- grant, is so beautiful and so easy to manage, no collection should be considered complete without it. Plant seed in June in good garden soil ; pinch out all flower buds till September ; then take them, with a ball of earth about their WINDOW GARDENING. 243 roots, to pots of the same soil. Keep them in the shade a fortnight. "Water sparingly till more flower buds appear, then give moisture generously — weak liquid manure twice a week, also It will bear great heat, 65'^ to 70°; but 60° suits it best. In that temperature in an open, any situation, it will put forth its deep crimson, -velvet, very double, flowers in great profusion all winter Achyranthes. The best varieties of Achyranthes are now freely used for window decoration, and have become quite common as standard plants for the centre of hanging Or standing floral baskets. They need only a moderate temperature of 50° to 75," and are easily taken care off. Their rich crimson tints have made the people crazy to use them wherever it is conceivable to do so. Achyranthes Lindeni has foliage of the deepest red, each leaf having a con- spicuous mid-rib of a lighter shade; when the sun shines fully upon it it is of a perfect claret color, habit dwarf, leaves narrow, lanceolae, and considered the most ornamental of the class of fine foliaged plants. A. aureus . reticulatus, is of the same habit of growth as the A. Verschaffeltii, but its leaves are of a rich apple green, marked with a net work of yellow, while the stems are a ruby crimson, affording a fine contrast with the leaves. A. Verschaffeltii, Var Gilsonii. This variety has leaves of a still brighter tint, a full carmine, with the stems of a deep shade of pink, rendering the plant decidedly ornamental, and giving a very rich appearance. This variety is now generally used in place of the old Verschaffeltii Coleu,8 "We do not recommend too free a use of this for the window or room culture. It needs moist and warm temperature, and uniform, with no change for the cooler. This, of course, is in direct opposition to the actual facts they have to meet in rooms which invariably grow colder at night. Another objection is that they grow so large and tall, and become so ungainly, that they are not fit for any length of time for any good position They are too tall for hanging baskets, although would look very appropriate in the centre of a group of plants in a large flower stand. They are much more tender than the Achyranthes, will not bear the touch of frost, and a slight chill is death to them. Wherever they can have a warm position, with plenty of sunlight, (although not directly upon their leaves), and a moderately moist atmosphere, they will do well. The best varie- ties are : Princess Royal, centre, reddish brown, light yellow margin. Queen Victoria, rich bronzy crimson, bright yellow, edged with crimson vein- ing. Setting Sun, crimson centre, with bright yellow edge Albert Victor, centre purplish red, broad yellow margin. 244 WINDOW GARDENING. Alternantheras. These are dwarf plants with narrow lanceolate leaves, which make very effective edging; their leaves are variegated with crimson, pink, green, brown, orange and carmine, in some respects resembling our brilliant autumn leaves; are well suited for hanging baskets. A. latifolia, has broad leaves of olive, green, crimson and orange. A. amabilis, rich tints of orange, rose and green. A. amoena, is crimson, pink, brown and amber red. Begonias, Are purchased principally already started and potted, ready to be placed in the window for decoration. Keep the leaves away from the window pane, or they will turn black. The temperature of room should be 60° to 75° constantly, and warmth must be steady, not changing. Begonia Rex, is the best variety yet grown in this country, and, as a showy plant, for picturesque ornament in the room or conservatory, it is unequalled. Leaves have an immense size, tinged with crimson, with here and there broad, silvery zones, and snowy spots, with 'Jinerald hues on the surface. It is perhaps the most popular plant now sold for bouse or parlor decoration. PART III. PARLOR DECORATIONS Fig. ),— Parlor Flower Staud for Tropical Plants. The Decoraiion of Parlors and Living Rooms with Orna- mental Plants and Flowers. A subject like this is one of intense interest to the American flower loving public. Formerly little was done in the encouragement of it, because we all, like amateurs, and beginners, knew little of the best plants and methods, and waited to learn from those more experienced; but of late, amateurs, in their eager zeal for window and room decorations, have taken in hand their own im- patient fancies, and led the way with experiments and trials of their own, while the lloiists everywhere look with admiration and respect upon the wide spreading taste for window and parlor gardening. The amateurs have out- stripped the professionals in the rapidity of their progress, and tlie prettiest rooms lo-day are embellished by the fingers of a fair plant lover, who a year before did not know one flower from another. To speak with truth, nothing is prettier, more elegant, and in many respects easier, than the decoration of our parlors, reception rooms, halls, etc., with ap- propriate plants and flowers. The very pictures, statues, vases, chandeliers, and other permanent ornaments, allow room for the exhibition of many kinds and varieties of beautiful plants. In such rooms, however elegantly furnished, is the proper place for fine Aquaria, Wo7-dian Cases, Flower Stands, Wire Arbors for climbing plants, flower baskets, or hanging baskets hung up between the curtains Flowers used for decoration will harmonize completely witli any architecture or furniture of the parlor. Indeed, was there ever any flower out of place iu a beautiful room ? A tasteful and carefully arranged composition of plants will captivate for a >ng time the love, attention and admiration of all classes of society. Few American writers have devoted much attention to this subject, and we oannot now recall a single article in our horticultural literature which treats in detail of the use of plants for room decoration; but in English and Continental journals the topic is a common one, doubtless from the more extensive use of costly plants at parties, receptions, and large social gatherings. It is one of tho higher branches of the florist's occupation, and really an art for the display of the most refined taste. William Robinson, the author of " Parks, Promenades and Gardens of Paris," has perhaps described the Continental system of the plant decoration of apart- ments more completely than any other, and refers to it in these words : — 248 WINDOW GARDENING' "The graceful custom of growing plants in living rooms is very much more prevalent on the Continent than with us. It is true that, we often see a display of flowering plants in rooms, though we rarely rise to the use of subjects distin- guished by beauty of form, or select those that are peculiarly adapted for in- doors. But the day is approaching when the value of graceful plants as home ornaments will be very fully appreciated. Apart altogether from their effect as ornaments, what can more agreeably introduce us to the study of natural his- tory .? The influence of the graceful form of a young Palm in the hall, the fascinating verdure of Ferns, and fine leaved plants from many countries, in the drawing room, and floweis from the orchards of the uplands of Mexico, to the tiny bulbs of Europe, in your Lilliputian room-con- servatory, is surely more eloquent in that direction than any book teaching. You cannot deny, as Kings- ley says, that "your daugh- ters find an enjoyment in it, and are more active, more cheerful, more self forgetful over it, than they would have been over novels and gossip, crochet and Berlin wool. At least you will confess that theabomi nation of " fancy work "— that standing cloak for dreamy idleness — has all but vanished from your drawing rooms since the " Lady Ferns " and Venus Hair Ferns appeared.' Ferns, to be sure, have been a great help and a great attraction, but they are not altogether superior as to verdure and elegance ; there are other plants much more readily grown in rooms. " By a combination of all the plants suitable for this purpose, we may not only find very agreeable indoor imployment, but create the highest kind of orna- ment and interest in the house at all seasons. " Merely displaying a few popular or showy subjects is not plant decoration in any high sense ! Rooms are often over-crowded with artificial ornaments, many of them exact representations of natural objects; but in the case of plants we may, without inconvenience, enjoy and preserve the living objects themselves. Fig. 2. — Maiauta fasciala. WINDOW GARDENING. 249 "Those we employ for this purpose, now are mostly of a fleeting character, and such as cannot be preserved in health for any length of time in living rooms. But if in addition to the best of these we select handsome leaved plants of a leathery texture, accustomed to withstand the fierce heats of hot countries, we shall find that the dry and dusty air of the living room is not at all injurious to them, and that It is quite easy to keep them in health for months, and even for years, in the same apartments. "Many plants that in England are considered as Exotics, are sold in Paris in abundance for the deco- ration of apartments The demand for use in private houses gives rise to a large and special branch of trade in many of the nurseries, and I know one Versailles cul- tivator who annually raises and sells 5,000 or 6,000 plants of the bright-leaved Dracaena terminalis alone, and by far the greater part for room docoration. " Although English plants are much better grown than the Paris- ian, yet those of the iatter appear the best ; the difference being caused by exceedingly tasteful and frequently peculiar arrangement, as well as by employing efiective and graceful kinds What the Paris- ians do as regards ar- Fig. 3.— Gymnostachyum VerBchaffelHL rangement may be best gleaned if we describe the decorations for one of the balls of the Hotel de Ville: " Entering the Salle St. Jean, the eye was immediately attracted by a luxuri- ant mass of vegetation at one end, while on the right and immediately round a mirrored recess was a very tasteful and telling display, made as follows : In front of the large and high mirror stretched a bank of moss, common moss underneath, and the surface nicely formed of fresh green Lycopodium denticula 250 WJNDO W GAR I) RXING. turn, the whole being dotted over with the variously tinted Chinese Primulas,— a bank of these plants, in fact, high enough in its back parts to be reflected in the mirror, with the taller plants which surrounded it, gradually falling to the floor, and merging into the groups of larger plants on cither side of the bank, the whole being enclosed by alow, gilt, wooden trellis work mar- gin. " The groups at each side contrasted most beautifully with this. Green predomin- ated, but there was a suf- ficiency of flower, while beauty of foiin was fully develoi)ed In the centre and back pans of these groups were tall speci- mens of the common sugar cane, (Saeharimun ofjiciar um,) which held their long "and boldly arching leaves well over the gi-oup. These were supported by Palms, which threw their graceful lines over the specimen Camellias, which were in their turn graced here and there by the presence of a Dracccna or dwarf Palm ; and so down to the front edge, where Cinerarias, forced bulbs, Primulas and Ferns, finished off the groups, all very closely placed, so that neither the lower part of the stems, nor a particle of any of the pots could be seen " Any interstices that hap- pened to remain between v\ii. 4.-A-ave Americaua. the bascs of the plants were compactly filled with fresh green moss, which was also pressed against the little gilt trellis work, which enclosed the whole, so that from the uppermost point of the cane leaves to the floor, nothing was seen but fresh green foliage and grace- ful forms enshrouding the ordinary flowers of our greenhouses — that are infi- WINDOW GARDENING. 251 nitely more attractive when thus set in the verdure of which nature is so profuse, and which is always so abundant where her charms of vegetation are at their highest. " A scene such as this explains the prevalence of these graceful and noble-leaved plants in Paris gardens, and in Parisian flower shops and windows, for you may frequently see elegant little Draccenas ornamenting windows there, and as they Fig. 5. — Oieti'enbacbia. look as well at Christmas as at midsummer, I need hardly suggest how highly suited they are for purposes of this kind. " The number of Dractenas cultivated in and around Paris is something enor- mous, and among the newer species of these — not alluding to the colored-leaved kinds — are some that combine grace with dignity as no other plants do combine them. They are useful for the centres of noble groups of plants in their larger forms, while the smaller species may be advantageously associated with the Maiden Hair Fern, and the Cinerarias of the conservatory bench. 252 WINDOW GARDENING. " They are of the greatest utility in these decorations, and are largely usod in aA parts. So are most all kinds of fine-leaved plants, from Fhormiutn to Ficus, Young Palms are also cultivated to an enormous extent about Paris j and so is every green and graceful-leaved plant, from the Cycads to the common trailing Ivy, — used to make living screens of. " The wide staircase at the Hotel de Ville, ascending from the entrance hall, had also a charming array of plants so placed that the visitors seemed to pass through a sort of floral grove ; fine-leaved plants arching over, but not rising very high, and having a profusion of flowering things among and beneath them. "As the bank of Primu- las and the groups of tall plants were placed opposite this staircase, and reflected in the great mirror behind^ the effect when descend- ing the staircase was fasci- nating indeed. A still finer effect was produced in a room near the great dancing saloon, and through which the guests passed to the magnificent ball room. Against each pillar in this saloon was placed a palm with high and arching leaves like those of the Sieforthia elegans, and otheis with larger leaves and pendulous leaflets. These meeting, or almost meeting aci-oss, produced a very graceful and imposing effect, while round them were arianged other plants, distinguished either by beauty of leaf or Fig. 6.— Begonia. flower, and the groups at each pillar connected by single rowsof dwarf plants, closely placed however, and well mossed in, as in the case of the more important groups. " The very close placing of the plants is a peculiar pait of the arrangement. You can not notice any dividing marks or gaps. Yet there is no awkward crowding. '' These arrangements were infinitely varied at the great balls, both public and private; rocks, water grottoes, and similar decorations, were occasionally intro- duced, both indoors and in the open air, and in the gardens behind private houses. WINDOW GARDENING. 253 ** The Tuilleries gardens at the time of the great fetes, were largely decorated in this way — each of the numerous lamp-posts having a bed of flowers around it, and the whole scene being turned into a kind of conservatory in a few days. The number of flowers required to do this was something enormous. " The extent to which the floral embellishments of the Hotel de Ville were carried, may be judged from the great number of plants grown at Passy for that purpose, — the New Zealand Flax, which is so very useful for indoor or outdoor decoration, being grown to the extent of upwards of 10,000 plants and Palms, and all plants with fine leaves in great quantity. "One plant, cultivated in great abundance around Paris for winter blooming, is well worthy of increased at- tention, EpipJiyllum trun- catum. " There are several varie- ties, and they certainly form most beautiful objects on dull December days. " The variegated form of the common Roast-beef plant — Iris foetidissima — may be Been occasionally used with good effect. This is a true hardy native which will deserve culture. It forms a very pretty plant for room decoration, requires none but the most ordinary at- tention, and is easily ob- tained. " The Acanthuses, too, and particularly A . lusitani- cus used so effectively out of doors, are also grown abun- dantly in rooms, where they do very well. Everything Fig. 7.— Yucca aioefbUa. proved to do well without the protection of a case is a gain to the very large class, who, from choice or necessity, like to grow plants in rooms." A few years since a valuable communication on this subject of room decora- tion was given by a French gardener, Antonine Chantin, of Rue de Chatillon, Paris, to the Floral World of London. Mentioning the most popular plants used in the window embellishments of the French Capital, as their calture 254 WINDOW GARDENING seems to be better understood in that city than any other, we take the liberty of quoting a few of his statements : Fdlms. *' These play an important part in the embellishment of apartments in Paris. Corypha australis. This plant, although but little known, is destined in a short time to occupy a foremost place in the decoration of apartments, where it makes itself conspicuous by its peculiar beauty, and the number of its leaves; it is, I believe, the most rustic in appearance of all the palms. Cocos coronata and flexuosa are very elegant, and produce a charming effect. Chamcerops humilis and excelsa, are two very fine liardy palms; Latania borbonica is certainly the most recherche plant of the famil}', and is valued as much for the beautiful green of its leaves as for its elegant appearance. Fhoenix dadylifera, leonensis and reclinata are also very much sought after and are highly esteemed. Areca alba, lutescens and rubra are distinct and handsome." Ferns. Besides what we have said of Ferns in a previous chapter, there is need of little to repeat here. Ferns cannot be dispensed with in elaborate decorations for the parlor or conservatory. A Fig. 8.— Aiteiiiautiiera. single plant of the common Lady Fern, " Athyrinm filix foemina," is as useful in producing a graceful ef- fect as anything we know Mr. Chantin in his remaiks of Paiisian decorations, says: " The family of Ferns, although classed among plants with delicate tissues, and having a great dislike to dry, hot atmosphere, nevertheless furnish numerous examples which, with careful management, add vary much to the beauty of apartments. Thus, I have very frequently remarked, several species of Adian- him, which, wherever they can be preserved in good health, produces, without doubt, a most ravishing eifect. Pteris avfjyrea, P. cretica albo lineata, and P. serrulata variegata also pro- duce a very fine eft'ect, with their prettily marked foliage. AlsopliUa australis, and Bdlantium antarcticum are also sometimes employed for decoration purposes in rooms of large dimensions, where their magnificent appearjmce never fails to produce a very imposing efiect." WINDOW GARDENING 9,55 Select list of Ferns for Room or Table Decorations. Adiantum cuneatum, Lomaria ciliata, " formosum, Nephrolepis exaltata, " hispidulum, Pteris cretica albo lineata, Asplenium flaccidum, " serrulata, " marinum, Lastrea cristata, Blechnum Brasiliense, " dilatata, " corcovadense, " filix mas cristata, Athyrium Filix fcemina, Polystichum angulare, " f. f. Fieldii, " cristatum, Scolopendrium vulgare crispense, " proliferum. JjOinaria gibba, Orchids. " Until very recently I had believed that Orchids would never flourish if taken from the greenhouses, but a gardener of my acquaintance has introduced them while in bloom into a drawing-room with perfect success, the plants not having suffered in the least by the change of atmosphere." The following List of Orchids is very suitable for rooms : Barkeria Skinneri, Leptotes bicolor, Aerides Warneri, Lycaste Skinneri, Brassavola Digbiana, " aromatica, Calanthe vestita, Mormodes aromaticum, Chysis Limminghi, Oncidium ampliatura, Cypripedium barbatum, " flexuosum, " venustum, " divaricatum, " insignis, " cupreum, Dendrobium nobile, Pleione maculata, " pulchellum, Sephronites cernua, Epidendrum vitellinum, " violacea. "All kinds of plants bearing flowers have paid their tribute to the ornamen- tation of rooms, from the humble mignionette, upon which the patient seamstress loves to turn her weary eyes, to the magnificent Orchid, that with its brilliant colors and fantastic forms fills with grace and beauty the apartments of the affluent." Miscellaneous Plants. "The following plants are very elegant in appearance, but require considerable care and attention, being somewhat difficult for ordinary window culture. They are more suitable for frames and cases, and are frequently cultivated in that manner : Aralia, several species, especially Aralia Sieboldii. Bambusa japonica variegata, and B. Fortunei variegata. Bromehaceae, most varieties. Carludovica, palmata and plicata. 256 WINDOW GARDENING. Croton pictum, C. pictum variegatum, C. discolor. Curculigo recurvata. Ficus elasticus. This is a very elegant plant for a window ornament, but now a newer and much prettier variety, Ficus Chanvieri, is substituted for it gener- ally. Isolepis gracilis, a pretty rush, is most elegant, requires plenty of water. Musa. Several species are favorites, but principally M. discolor and M. rosea. Musa ensete is particularly suitable for window culture, but it is still so scarce and of such a price as seldom to be met with. Pandanus amaryllif alius, and Philodendron pertusum, have been much sought after, and in most places thrive so well as to give general satisfaction. Several varieties of Dasyli- rium and Beaucarnea are very suitable for rooms, and produce a very beautiful and graceful effect when grown in suspended vases or baskets. Rhopala corcovadensis. This plant exhales a somewhat dis- agreeable odor, but is neverthe- Flg. 9.— Centaurea gymnocarpa. leSS much SOUght after On ac- count of its very elegant and graceful appearance during the development of its young leaves." In addition to Mr. Chantin's list, we give the following, which will live in a room throughout the year, provided the frost is kept out and the plants are kept free from dust. All are handsome : " Lomatia elegantissiina, Aralia leptophylla, " ferruginea, " trifoliate " silaifoha, Rhopala austrahs, " polyantha, Arundo donax variegata. Nerium splendens, Pandanus graminifolius is peculiarly elegant, being well adapted for use in brackets. Cannas, are all very proper subjects for the house. Take them up before frost, WINDOW GARDENING. 251 keep m a dry cellar through the winter, then bring to the light in the Spring and they will start and grow well. Mr, B. S. Williams, an eminent English florist, in some remarks upon the sub ject of ornamental plants, adds by way of caution, "a fact which should nevei be lost sight of, is this : That all plants with soft woolly leaves are ill-adapted foi this purpose, but those with thick coriaceous leaves are always preferable — such as Dracanas, Palms, Crotons, Anthuriuni, Aloes, Agaves and Ficuses, amongst ornamental-leaved plants, and Amaryllids, Begonias, Epiphyllums, Acacias Azaleas, Coronillns, Cyclamens, Salvias, and Statices among flowering plants. " The ornamental-leaved kinds should be taken into an outer room occasionally, and have their leaves carefully sponged with warm water and soap, and stand until dry before removing them again into position. This operation removes all dust and dirt which may have accumulated, gives them a fresh and bright appear- ance, and is of vital importance to their well being." He furnishes the following select list of plants eminently adapted for the decoration of apartments: Ornamental Agave Americana. " variegata. Anthurium leuconeurum. " magnificum. Araha leptophylla. " Sieboldii. " reticulata. Araucaria excelsa. Aucuba japonica (vars). Bambusa arundinacea. Begonias (variegated). Calamus asperrimus. Caryota sobolifera. Cham«dorea Arenbergii. " desmoncioides. *• Ernesti Augusti. " graminifolia. " Hartwegii. " Wendlandii. Chamaerops Fortunei. " humilis. Cocos australis. Coleus (many varieties). Croton angustifolium. " variegatum. •Leaved Plants. Cyperus alternifolius variegatus. Dracaena australis. " Cooperi. " ferrea. " gracilis. " indivisa lineata. " terminalis. Ficus elastica. " religiosa. Kentia sepida. " Bauerii. Latania borbonica Lomatia silaifolia. Morenia corallina. Oreopanax dactylifolium. Pandanus utilis. Phoenix dactylifera. Rhapis flabelliformis. Sieforthea elegans. Solanums (Weatherill's hybrids). Yucca aloifolia variegata. " filamentosa variegata " quadricolor. " Stokesii. 17 258 ii7.v/><)ir ^'.l i:ny.\i\(;. Oniiiniiiitdl Amaryllis (all viuiolies). Ai'uciu aniiiidi. '* Druiinnondii. " Sramlis. '* Iviccanu. Azaloivs (any variotios). Uogoma l)i>;swolK'nsis. '* I'lu'lisioiiios. " li}l>riila lloribumliv. '* inanioata. *• otluratft. " Wi'itunionsis. Cauiollias (many variotios). ("allioarpu purpuroa. (.Mirysnnthommns. (.'oronilla j;lauca. (.\volamoii rorsioiim (var.) Daphiio Imlica alha. " " rubra. Diolytra spootabilis. Kpiphylluin truncatum (variotios) Eiicharis Ainn/.Diiira. Krica, many sofl-woodoil kimls. Epaoiis (all variotios). Krytliriiia Mario Uolangcr. CJonista Evoiosliaiia. " racomosa. Gardenia iiulioans major, llobocliniuut iantbimnni. Laohonalia (many vars.) LoucopoiiDU Kioboi. Linum Uavnm. " trigyniim. Norium Oloandor. Poinsottia iinloborriina. ytatioo |irot"usa. Vallota purpuroa. Ciiou'K OK Plants and thkiu Aukanc^k.mknts. J'>r(iC(C>ias. Tbo most popular anil suitablo plants for gay docoration sooin now to be tlii* Ihaccntaa. Attor iboy bavo boon onoo placed in tbo window box or jardniot, tbo attention tbey require is but, ordinary, and tboy will live in tbe almospbero of any mod «ratel\ boated room tbo year round. Tbe variety most used is D. tenniitali'f, very easily managed, and always orna- mental ; tbe cboico among Horists often preponderates in favor of tbo I), ferrca utricta, which is still more beautifully variegated ; tbo 7). gilfiUa, with its stripe » of white and green, still rai-e, is a great novelty. The colored leaved D. Cooptr\ and tbe green leaved D. dustralvi, D. iiutirisa, D. Veilchii, bavo all an elegant habit, and will ilo well in the temperature of any silting room rangiu;;^ tVom 00' to 7;")\ Other variotios will do well, such as the 7). Cdinificfolia, co)i(jcsur, rubra, stricte and iiinbiaculij'era. but tbe most proforablo of these woub'. bo the ruhia and stricta. I^larantas. Next in turn would be the ^f(l)■au(as, of which tlie bcsl vai'ictics would be Jf pulchella, ethnna, and also a dwarf variety of the lattei. Tho scbrina is much tiio most popular of all this class, and according to tb« experience of French gardeners, is tbe only one suitable for steady cullivatiou in •partmonts, as all the others succumb to the .hot and dry atmosphere insopara- WIND 0\V a ART) KNING 259 bly found in the living room. Another great flifficult.y in the use of the Marantn Ih the too great eagerness to display in the window ; the leaves heing large, reach out and touch the winrlow pane. When cooled with the toucli they become at once of sickly look, turn yellow, and are gieatly disfigurcl. They must be kept away from all cool winter air, and thrive best in a hot, moist location. Do not let the leaves rest or lie U[>on anytliing. The Maranta losea picta 18 one of the most exquisite of thiij cla.s9, and to those who have conserva- tories, where it can temporarily be re- moved to and from the parlor, it will be well worth keeping. llie I'oinsettia jmJr cherima. No plant of the present day has so striking a flower or is better capable for Parlor Ornament than this. It is not a plant for contiiiuou.s room culture, but only for temporary purj>oscs, being quite tender, neefling a tempera- ture of 75°, and even at night not below 60'. For vases, for dinner tables, for floral decorations of some Etagere, or to be placed in front of a handsome looking glass, it will al- ways be of more than ordinary merit. The GymnoHtachyum VerschAffeltii,':^ very suitable for vases, ai.d m our illus- tration. Fig. 3, is used in a hand.some silver stand and glass bowl as a decoration for the table. Caladiums. The variegated Caladiums are very desirable for decoration, for, besides their gracefulness, they will well endure the transition from the green house to a warm Pig, 10.— nra<:a*;iia t«rine. Take for instance for the centre : Curculigo recurvat* ^••0 ir GA RDKiXING. gesta, Dr. fcrrcn, Dr. terminalis, Dr. australis, D. Bra&iliensis, Dr. rubra, Latania borbonica, Crj'ptomeria Japonica, Araucaria imbricata, Yucca liaccida, Aralia papyrifera, longifolia; or a little orange tree, round wliich are grouped by size: Ferns wiih long fronds, as Bleclmum australe, spicatum and B. frasineuni, Pteris arguta, Pteris longifolium, Aspidiuin violasccns, A. molle, Asplenium dccursive, pinnatnm, Cyrtomium falcatuni, Osniunda cinnamomea and regalis, Struthiopteris Gcnnanica ; and for the outline of this group, small plants of Camelia,Azalia, Cardenia radican.s, Myrtus, Aucuba, Magnolia fusca Eugenia australis, Plecto gyne variegata, Rhucus acu leatus, R. racemosus, Che nopodium lanatum, Alys- sum niaritimum, fol. var., and Carex japonica, fol.vsir. Now to decorate a small parlor, which is dailj^ used and has a higher tempera- ture, take : Several Dra- ca3nas, small Palms, Pan- datms utilis, Philodendrum pertusum, Alocasia macror- rhiza, fol.var., A. Jenningii, A. metallica, A. arborea, Croton pictum, and C. va- riegatum, and different species of Maranta, Ama- ryllis Tessani, A. solandrre flora, A. vittata and A. regina, Vallota purpurea, Pitcairnea punicea, Aech- nia3a fulgcns, Tillandsia farinosa, pyramldalis and amoena. A composition of plants with thick and fleshy leaves Fig. 17. Flower Box and tree trellis. and branches is attraciive and interesting. For instance, for the centre of the group : Echeveria gran- ditlora, metallica, or E. sanguinea, or Sempervivum arboreum, fol. var., grafted Epiph3dlum, or OpuntiaBrasiliensis, surrounded by Mammillaria, Echinocactus, Echeveria, secunda glauca. Aloe retusa, Sempervivum Californicum, Aloe mar- garitifera, Sedum Sieboldii, fol. var. It is some years since very successful and lasting efforts have been made to •Niltivate air plants (Orchids) in the room, (they have lately become cheaper.) WiJ^DOW GARDEXISG. 269 Nothing indeed can be more charming as flower stands in rustic style, covered with these interesting plants, mixed with Ferns, Selaginella, New Orleans moss, Jillandsiausneoides, Xidularia, Aechinaea and Pitcairna. Of Orcliids, are re- commended the following : Catlleya, Lajiia, Lycaste, Maxiliaria, Oncidion, Odon- toglossum, Schomburgkia, Acropera, Acineca, Epidendron, Gongora, Lygopeta- lum and Brassia species. For wardian cases the smallest species of Or- chids and especially various kinds of-Ancc- tochylus, with their sil- ver and golden veins in the leaves are very de- sirable; also the very interesting D i o n a e a muscipula which is one of our native orchids as well as Goodycra pu- bescens; place them to- gether with several kinds of ferns. A glass case filled with these plants IS an elegant ornament for the parlor. Other Oichids only cidtivatcd in pots will do well for window dccoiation. Take for this purpose : Bletia hyacinthina, Li- modorum, Tankervillae, (Phajus grandifolius), Cymbidium oloefolium and C. ensifolium, Ca- lanthe vestita and vera- tri folia, and various species of Cypripcdium. It 8 h O W 8 a refined F:o-.vei- box win, arbor aud chiDl.inu: rines, taste to decorate with air plants, ferns and fine climbing ])lants as : Cis.sus discolor, Metrites, Melaleuca, Miconia speciosa, Potlios argyraea, Echites ar2yraea violacea, Passiflora trifa.sciata, kermc.sina, and P. princeps, Dioscorea discolor, Manettiabi- color, Thunbergia chr3'sops, Th. grandiflora and Th. laurifolia. Avoid plant.s with soft and downy leaves and employ more Ferns, Glasses or even Caladias and plants with smooth leaves as they are more lasting for this purpose than the so -called Bedding plants which are more suitable for out of door cultivation 270 \r/j\DOW GARDEN/NO. For amples and hanging lamps, we recommend a plant of great value; it is Cor- deline vicipara, now called Gloro phyton Sternbergianum; known a long time in Gardens. It produces on long hanging stalks a great many young plants with air roots; is therefore useful by this habit for Orchid stands and baskets, [n larger parlors which are only moderately heated, plants from greenhouses and conservatories cm be selected for a required decoration. Thebest selection Fig. 19. Flow r stand for Parlor Window. would be: Azaleas, Camellia?, Citrus Sinensis and grafted Citrus aurantium, Daphne laureola, odaraia, Cneorum ; Olea fragrans; Eugenia australis ; Crypto meria Japonica, Cephalotaxus Fortune!, Rhododendrums, Kalniia, Ilex aqucfolium fol. var., Aucuba Japonica and its varieties, Viburnum Tinus with fine white flowers in winter, Laui-us nobilis, regalia and L. CampUora, Tristania laurina. WTjXDOW gardexino. 271 Eucalyptus globulus, Melianthus major, Melia Azedarach, Sida Japonica, Oestrum aurantiaciun, Melaleuca alba, decussata, ovalifolia and hypericifolia ; and Eryo- boiria japonica. He who is fond of more tropical plants should use in such mode- r»ie temperature : Aralia Sieboldii, Icptophylhi, (juinqiiefolia; Solanum Warsce- ritzii, robustum ; Caladium violaceum, ciipreuni (poiphyroncurum), Caladium Javanicum ; Hedychiu.n Gardnerianum, Banibusa Metake, Chainaerops For- tunei ; Phonnium tcnax, Dianella caerulea, Ruellia varians, Sol andragrandi flora, 272 WINDOW GARDENIXG. Bruginansia arborea fl. pi., Sabal minor (Corypha"), Charaaerops Palmetto (coiypha) of Ferns especially : Balantium antarcticum, Blechnum australe ; Cyrtomium falcatiim, Cyathea australis and Cyathea meduUaris. All these plants are veiy durable and easy in cultivation for a low temperature and do not require much light. They keep during the winter the full foliage and manv of tlicm will bloom at this season. Plants, like Acacia lophanta, drop the leaves often in winter and require much light and a careful ti-eatment. It is, as we have said, most important to put saucers under the pots ; it prevents the draining V\'i. 21. .Ai|ii:iiiiiiii. "il)i nrlM>r. water from (lowing over. The complaints of ladies that plants spoil the furni- ture will, if this caution is employed, be left away. The following illustrations will explain the method how to treat, arrange and plant the diffoi-ent objects suitable for putting plants for decoration: This can be a guide for graceful arrangements to every one who has a passion f'->r these sweyt beings, leaving enough room to develop a refined good taste, and u.iining with it the admiration of all. In some respects plants are like animals. WINDOW GARDENING. 273 looking out for their own particular society. You are not to mix Dra- caenas with Pelargoniums, or Fenis with high Calceolarias, Ageratum, Petu- nias, Matricarias, etc.; these combinations would be against the habit of such plants. But you may combine well Ferns and Grasses with plants, having beauti- ful lucent leaves like Caladias, Liiias, etc. ; eveiy Fern possesses the quality for softening the greatest contrast. Of piants with variegated and silver leaves, chooso only such, which go well with other plants, and arrange like this: Ceniaurea gymnoca-pa, candidissima and C. plumo.sa, Ciuneraria maritima and Artemissia argentea, as a single plant; or in the centre of a group, surrounded by low plants, in rich flowering state, as: Rosa Lawrenciana, Lobelia ramosa and erinoides, Iberis sempervivens, Dianthus Chinensis and imperialis flore pleno, 18 274 WIND W GARDENING. Cuphea ytatycentra, Anemone coronaria, Sanvitalia procumbens fl. pi Primula 3ortusoides, Gazania splendens, Geum coccineum, Ajuga reptans fol. var., Aiabis albida fol. var., Cyclamen Persicum and Coum, Saxifraga sarmento.sa, Cerastium tomentosum, Myosotis Azorica, Ornithogalum aureum, Erinus alpinus Calan- drina umbellata, Viola cornuta, lutea and Viola odorata the Czar, Campanula pulla (pussilla), C. soldanellifolia, Vidali, Garganica, cochlearifolia and Solda- nella alpina. Collector all these plants as the season allows. Fig. 20 is a low flower stand, best placed in front of a high looking glass, or in summer in front of a fireplace. Such tlower .';taTKl requires mosti}' j)lants with ornamental and variegated foliage, to be seen from above. For instance, all tlie varieties of Begonia Rex, hydro- cntyledes, manic at a, Warcsewitzii, Dregei, smaragdina, stigmosa, Pearcei and ricinifolia ; different Caladias, San- chezia nobilis, Maranta zebrina, pardina, vittata, regalis, and Lindeni, sur- rounded by Torenia Asi- atica, Iloya carnosa, Tra- descantia discolor, Gyra- nostachys Pearci, Pepe- romia aigyraea, P i 1 e a m u s c o s a and various kinds of Gesneria and Gloxinia. Fig. 21, an Aquarium covered by a little arbor, to be used for window decoration or flower tables. Plants, as the Fig. 23. Flower Basket with GoW-flsli basin, CUt shoWS US, are : Cype- rns alternifolius, Calla sethiopica minor, [ris fjetidissinia, Acones graminifolius and Tsolepis parlatoris. For climbing plants, which will well cover the arbor, lake : Pilogyne suavis, Tropaeolum tri-colorum or Smilax microphylla (Medeol* aspajagoides."> WINDOW GARDENING. 275 Fig. 22 represents a Glass rotunda or Bell Glass, surrounded by different dwarf plants exposed to dry air, as : Lychnis Haageana, Spigelia Marilandica, Mimu- lus quinquovulneris, Convolvulus Mauritanicus and Calcaeolaria rugosa flori- bunda. The inside plants are like those which are proposed for Wardian cases, requiring the same treatment. Such well filled and well arranged Bell glasses are beautiful ornaments for the table at festivities. Fig. 23 The flower basket, with goldfish basin, is very cheerful to look at when standing in a bay window or on a table. It is charming to see the lively and graceful little animals swimming about between the carefully arranged plants. Plant in this basket the neat: Rosa Bengalensis, Agrippina, Crocus, Snowdrops, Lily of the Valley, Lephyranthus candidus ; Verbena var., kinds : Nesembryanthemura cordifolium, Carex Japonicus, foL var., Sweet Alyssum and blue Lobelias. Fig. 1 is a low flower stand for Tropical plants, covered with a falling veil to protect plants against the dust. Place it in front of a large looking glass, which will heighten the effect. Only large Tropical plants can be used here for decora- tion. Such are : Dracaenas, Bambusa.Hedychium, Alpinia nutans, Curculigo recurvata, Pothos, macrophylla, Anthurium, Philodendron pertusum and Palms as : Chamaedorea lunata, elatior, gracilis ; — Cycas revoluta, Rhapis flabelliformis, and large ferns as: Blechnun australe and Brasiliense, Pteris, argyroneura and tricolor, Pteris arguta and hastata, Polypodium aureum, Nephrolepis exaltata, Cyathea meduUaris and australis; Pteris cretica alba and Cyrtomium falcatum. Fig. 24. This flower stand consists of wire or fine willow work prettily adorned at the bottom with Berlin-wool, or bead work done up by the fingers of a lady. It serves especially for keeping cut flowers M^hich have to be put, to give them more durability, in wet sand. Toy or Passion flowers climb round at the sides, and Pelargonium pedatum, Fragaria Indica, Saxifraga, Vinca major fol. var. Sweet Aly.ssum mixed with Lobehas decorate the upper part of the stand. Fig. 25 is one of the handsomest of parlor decorations ; a sofa shaded by big plants with imposing foliage as on Fig 7. Place for the warm season plants like this : ^lelianthus major, Canna, various kinds, Uhdea pinnalifida, Solanum robustum, laciniatum, Warcsewitzii; Amar- anthus bicolor coccineus ; Iresine and Alternanthera, Coleus, Fuchsia, Ilybiscus, Plumbago, Gardenia florida, and Fortunei; Abutilon Thomsonii and Mesopota- micum, fol. var.. Chrysanthemum Sensation, Osmunda cinnamomea, Struthio- pterisGermanica,Adiantum pedatum, Onoclea sensibilis. Heliotrope, Jasminum gracile, Rosa Bourbon, Souvenir de Malmaison, Rosa Thea, Souvenir d'un, ami, Hydrangea hortensis, Lilium lancifolium and auratum. Fig. 26 is much like Cut 9; but of greater importance is here the choice of single plants, as the whole arrangement shows small flower stands, tastefully grouped round the arbor. Fill the stands in the back ground with the following plants : Dracaena terminalis and D. ferrea, D. Brasiliensis, rubra, congesta, australis, indivisa, Veitchii; also Ficus elastica, australis and Cooperi. For 27fa Kixnow n A 7?n/:\f.xG. l-'iL'. 2i. I'lulor Kli.NM-i- Stiiml. WIXDOW GARDENING. 211 cTimliing plants decoradng the arbor are well fit : Hedera Algeriensis and Roegneriana, Cissus antarcticus, Rhuscus androgyus, Pilogyne suavis, Rubus moUucanus, Adlumia cirrhosa, Clematis azurea grandiflora, lanuginosa, and Fortunei. Iig. 27. The Flower fountain is, when small, determined for ornamental tab!* deco- ration. Tn larger style it may be well suited for hall decoration or ornaments for a tent WINDOW GARDENING. out or uootb. The light and graceful wire-TTork can be covered with : MnuintKlia. Rhoaochvton volubile. Eccremorcarpus punicus, Lophospermum, Tropaeolinn ti icoloi or T. pentaphyllum, Thunborgia, Solanum jasminoides, Bignoniajasminoides, Mede but only to be filled up once in three weeks. There will be no danger of its dripping upon the carpet, nor being chilled unless the tempera- ture falls below freezing. Long pieces of Ivy can be pur- chased at the florists, and they will .soon strike root and grow finely. I n arranging vases that will stand far from close inspection, very huge, bright flowers are the most desirable. Dahlias for the centre piece, surrounded with full blown Kig. 44. siand of oi namentai Or.isses. ruses. Chrysanthemums, etc.; little delicate flowers are thrown away in sucli decorations. For wreathing piclun; frames and looking glasses, nothing is more beautiful than evergreen, box, or myrtle boughs, thickly intermixed with Holly, Snow- berries or Bitter-sweet, and the whole crowned by a bouquet of feathery Ferns with evergreens and Ijerries. For large green wreaths tied on the springs of hoop skirts firmly fastened together, the low growing evergreens of the pine woods are decidedly the best, and branches of spreading boughs of fir or hemlock can surmount each crown. The gray woolly wreatlis of the Clematis, when it has gone to seed, mingle well with the bright berries and the dark hued cvergi-eens. There is no dec«.,r- WINDOW GARDENING. 205 ation which equals that of flowers on festive occasions, ar d those of our readers who live in the country can always avail themselves of the berries and evergreens of the forests and fields. The mountain Ash berries are also extremely effective in trimming vases and rooms. To Revive Faded Flowers Hot water will frequently restore flowers to freshness, even when every petal is drooping. Place the stems into a cup of boiling hot water, leave them in it until each petal has become smoothed out, then cut off the coddled ends and put into milii warm water. Colored flowers revive sooner than those that are of snowy whiteness, as the latter turn yellow. A cool room is best adapted to keeping flowers fresh ; they will wilt quickly in badly ventilated rooms, especially if filled with tobacco smoke. Take away each flower as it fades, else it will decay the others. It is far better to gather your flowers for yourself and friends, than to let them fade upon the plants. Cut Flowers, hoiv to keep them When gathering flowers, use a pair of sharp shears ; a knife is better, es- pecially for woody plants — roses, camellias, spireas, deutzias, fuchsias, and the like. If you wish to sever a spray of blossoms or leaves, hold the stem to Fi^. 45. cross for ThLiIh Utcc.iation. be removed in the left hand, and at the back of the stem set the knife (held in the right hand) and cut in a slanting direction downward. If the spray springs from the head of the stalk, cut it as close as possible to the shoot next below it ; if it be a side branch, cut it cleanly to the main stalk. Then there will be no outflow of the sap, no rough and withering sticks protruding their unsightly presence above sickly foliage and meagre blossoms ; but, on the contraiy, a symmetrical growth of verdure and florescence. Use the same method in removing a solitary flower or bud. One great drawback to our enjoyment of cut flowers is the quickness with which they decay. The moisture furnished cut flowers should be ratn water, always of a mode- rate temperature, about blood warmth. The water should not be changed, but 296 WINDOW GARDENINO cTery morning its evaporation supplied with more of the same temperature ; to which, after a few days, a little aqua ammonia — five drops to half a pint of water — may be added. It is well to place at the bottom of the dish or vase a layer of broken charcoal, about half an inch in depth — pieces about the size of small beans. In placing the flowers, let them have as much room as they need to show themselves naturally. At the expiration of a week, the stems should be examined, all decayed matter rubbed from them with a piece of flannel ; and the tip of each end cleanly cut ; and if any leaves or blossoms begin to look with ered, those also should be cut away. Flit. 4fi. Flower Stand for the Table. Flowers decay much sooner when tied in bunches or bouquets than when arranged loosely. Too little air and too much water are the bane of most species. There ought to be a free current of the former around each spray or separate large flower, while the latter should not come above the calyx of any bloom ; better be an inch or more below it. With most hardy plants, even if very long stemmed, two inches immersion will give water enough if they have plenty of air Branchlets of flowering shrubs and stalks of the lily tribe can be advanta- geously arranged m water held in deep vases in the manner just mentioned ; but WII^DOW GARDENING. 297 for a collection of the various orders, we prefer a perforated cover, (have used even the flat steamer of a dinner-boiler, but wish the " workers in clay " would provide for the necks of vases and flowei'-dishes plates similar to those prepaied for drainers to soap dishes.) This rests upon the top of the vessel, and througii its holes the stems can be passed to the water beneath without fear of too deep immersion, ae Mg. 47. Flower Stand for a Haa either by its leaves, or bud-stems, or stalks of surrounding greenery, each flower is lightly supported above the cover, which is hidden by the foliage hanging gracefully around. When water is to be supplied, the cover is raised withou* disturbing the stems 298 wiajdow gardening. For short stemmed flowers, a mixture of damp sand and powdered charcoal in equal proportions, answers very well ; but care must be taken that the dish does not get too dry ; so also do baskets of creeping moss, in which they may be placed with fine eftcct; slill the moss gets dry so soon that the flowers fare bet- ter if a saucer is hidden below, partly filled with water, which they can reach with the tips of their stems I'i^'. 48. Dish of Klowei-B and Kurus for the Table. The prettiest and best arrangement for keeping cut flowers in beauty is a dish of velvet moss saturated with rain water. When this moss is brought from the wooil.s, if a few fronds of fern, especially those of the delicate Maiden Hair, are Fig. 49. Oinanieutal Silver and Oold Staud for Fruit or Flowera. taken with it, and suflTered to form a part of the foliage of the group, you wiL find them a charming addition. Place the flower stems sparsely among themosa, and here and there a branchlet of green or a leaf. Just inside the edge of the dish pour a very little water twice a week ; and when any of the collection show signs of decay, remove them, and fill their places with fresh specimens; thus the dish may be kept filled with bloom and beauty for mouths WINDOW GARDENING 299 Small bouquets for the hand soon fade if no effort is n.«(.e to give them mois- ture ; but a wrapping of a bit of wet cotton batting or a few wet threads of can- dle wicking, fastened lightly about the ends of the stems, will suffice to keep them in good condition several hours in a close, hot atmosphere. Those who do not like the formahty of a bouquet holder, which this plan necessitates, can take a small vial — such as are used to hold medicine of homoeopathists — partly fill it with water, and place the flower stems therein ; and then cover the vial by tying a ribbon around it, just as they would the bare stems of a nosegay. Flowers used in decorating the hair and the dress can be kept bright and fresh in the s;)me way. If flowers are to be transported any distance after they are cut, they should be placed carefully in a tight box or case. If the box is not per- fectly air tight, furnish it with a layer of damp moss or cotton batting. When going for wild flowers, carry a tightly closing tin box, in which is a piece of wet, coarse sponge, and a basket. The smaller flowers are to be shut in the box The sponge is laid in the bottom of the basket, and the stems of the larger flowers inserted in its pores. By so doing, even the most delicate can be brought home without withering. Handsome wall decorations may be made by cutting long branches of ivy, clematis, woodbine, honeysuckle, or climbing roses, insertmg a few inches of their stem in a bottle of rain water, and hanging the bottle behind a picture or a mirror, over and about which the flowers will Fig. so. Decorative Bud Ca-.- Imtl.e liouec bloom and the foliage flourish for many weeks, to the admiration of all be- holders. The beauty of so many flowers — hot house flowers especially — is tarnished by sprinkling. When they are drooping, it is best to try first a change to a cooler or a more airy department, and a double portion of ammonia added to their water ; this frequently revives them very quickly 300 WINDOW GARDENING- CONCLUSION. And now, regretfully taking leave of the interested readers who have followed us to the en(?, we cannot close without some slight but hearty expression of the genuine love and pure ennobling influence which comes from constant associa- tions with flowers. Though Window Gardening has its diflSculties, still its pleasures are as yet but partially told, and its capabilities only half revealed. How dreary our homes would be without some sweet presence of floral blos- soms ? Where they are, they seem to give a "benediction of peace" iov they beguile many a weary hour, and soothe many a feverish or anxious life. Would that all might be led ere long to study the beauties and acknowledge the sweet influence of the flowers, " Nature's Jewels," vhose life seems to be examples of humility, purity, and patience. Ruskm says : " Flowers seem intended for- the solace of ordmary humanity Children love them ; quiet, tender, contented, ordinary people love them as they grow ; luxurious and disorderly people rejoice in them gathered. They are the cottagers' treasure, and in the crowded town, mark, as with a little broken frag- ■•nent of rainbow, the windows of the worker, in w^ose hearts rests the " cove- nant of peace." To the child and the girl, to the peasant and manufacturing operative, to the grisette and the nun, the lover and the monk, they are precioug always — " Bright gems of Earth In which, perchance we leo Wh»t Kden was — what Paradise may be. INDEX. PART I. OSAPraB L Window Gardening: Its Pleasures— Increase tn Popular Taste — Refining In- Pa^xi. Alienees. S to 10 n. Location and Designs for Window Gai'deus 11 to 22 III. General Mauageiueut of VV'iudow Gardens 23 to 35 IV. Special Care of Window Gardens in Winter, Spring, Summer, Autumn 36 to 44 V. Insects, and how to kill tliem 45 to 48 VI. Propagation from Seeds. Cuttings, tc 49 to 52 VIL Propagating Boxes, Heating Cases and Cold Frames 53 to 56 VIIL Window Pots, Boxes, Jardinieres and Plant Stands 57 to 78 IX. Conservatories and Greenhouses 77 to 90 ' PART II. Plants for "Window Gardens. •haptkr X. Hanging Baskets 91 to 110 XL The Ivy for Decorative purposes Ill to 118 XIL Clhnhing Vines— Balcony Gardening 119 to 137 XIIL Bulbs 138 to 157 XIV, Ferneries, Wardian Cases, and Fern Decorations 158 to 188 XV. The Camellia...-. 189 to 191 XVL The Ruse 192 to 197 XVIL The Fuchsiar-The Myrtle 198 to 2ii3 XVin. Tlie Heliotrope 2U4 to 206 Xrx. The Geranium 207 to 211 XX. The Oleander, Bouvardia. Maliemia Odarata 212 to 214 XXI. Verbenas, Petunias, I\\a'etlirunis 215 to 218 XXIL The Mignionette, Cinerarias, Wall Flowers, Stocks 219 to 222 XXIII. Carnations 223 to 225 XXIV. Alpine Plants 226 to 2:12 XXV Miscellaneous Plants $33 to 244 PART III. Parlor Decorations. Cbaptkk XXVI. TTie Decoration of Parlors and Living Rooms with Ornamental Plants and Flowers 347 to 3(W ACKTsTO WJLiEDa^MENTS Tlie Editor would acknowledge with pleasure proper credit to the following Books or Joumitlt rtiicb have been consiilted for necessary information : The Floral World London, England. Tlie Gardeners' Magazine " The Parks, Gardens and Promenades of Paris By William Robinson. Frauengarfen, lUustriste Gartenbuch By H. Jager, Leipsig. Rustic Adornments for Homes of Taste By Shirley Hibberd. Flowers for the Parlor and Garden Edward S. Rand, jr. Practical Floriculture Henderson. Window Gardening, English Pamphlet Robert T. Fish. Indoor Plants Miss E. A. Maling. Hearth and Home, and American Agriculturist. The Horticulturist. N. E. Farmer. The Fern Garden Shirley Hibberd. Contributors. Acknowledgments of kindly assistance are due to the follewinR persons for contribitioni to the pages of this book : C. L. Allen, 'Daisy Etkbright, Pbof. Robert Dbmckeb, J. L. Little, Ja. N. Y. Central Park Gardens. Annb G. Hale. TILE FLOWEE BOXES Of Various Sizes and Patterns, for THEY ARE FACED WITH ORNAMENTAL TILES, 8«t in Walnut Mouldings, Plain and Rustic. The lining is of zinc, so that they may be filled with earth, or with common pots containing plants. ALSO, IN GLAZED STONEWARE, Ornamental Flower Pots, Hanging and Wall Baskets, Brackets, Rustic Seats, etc. MINTON'S FLOOR TILES FOR ^onscrbtttoiics, ^cstifeulcs, §alls, ^cad^s, etc. GARNKIRK CHIMNEY TOPS, &c., &c., &c. IVEILLEIl & COA.TES, 279 PEARL STRI^]ET. • NEW YORK .i^^- ^ 5) p? OR P^^^ ^ o '<^. % ^ OF VARIOUS SIZES, PATTERNS AND DECORATION, 8, 9, 10. 11, 12, 13, 14 & 15 INCHES IN DIAMETER, WITH (^rnuli dfriistal (ilajjs mimics COMPLETE. The largest assortineiit in the Dnited States, and sold at LOWER PRICE than any other house in this Hue of business. Also, GLASS SHADES for POND LILIES. with Mirrored Stands, to represent water, of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 inches in diameter, and largn sizes when specially ordered. Class Shades for Clocks, Birds, Wax Flowers, etc. SHEET ^VAX, of Bch»(ffe1e's •nperlor manufacture, for making Wax Flowers, Gilt Lraf Moitlds, (TO dUTecent •tyles) MouLDiMG Tools, Flowkr Odttkhs, Dry Colors in Homo— Vials, Brushes, iloss. Stamens, and •tner mateiials and tools used iu Wax Flowsr making. S. J. PARDESSUS & CO., 9 & 11 Park Place, New York. A catalogue with treatise on "Phantom Bouquets," or " Skeleton Leaf" m.-iking, will be sent by aiftil on receipt of a 3 cent P. O. Stamp. The trade and teachers of wax flowers will please euclos* their business card. Hitchings iSc Co., MANUFACTURERS OF Patent Boilers and Heating Apparatus FOB G-reen-Houses, G-raperies, Etc., No. 153 Crosby St., New ^ork-. CORRUGATED FIRE-BOX BOILER, Patented 18G7. Manufacture and keep constantly on hand Patent Corrugated FireBox Boil- ers, Conical Boilers, and Saddle Boilers, Heating Pipes, Expansion Tanks, Stop Valves and Fittings of every kind. Also, Furnace Fronts and Fire Bars for brick flues, Sash Lifters, etc., etc. Refer fo— Peter Hendereon, Bergen, N. J. ; Isaac Bnchanan, Astoria, L. I., N. T. ; Wm. C. Wilson, Astoria, L. I., N. Y. ; Ellwang;er A Barry, Rochester, N. Y. ; Experimental Gardens, Washington, D. 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" 85 Mistress Mary. ' (14 I Love Little Pussy. " 87 To My Darling. Sli SERIES No. 3. Price 50 Cents Each No. 51 Lovp's Emblem. To Mv Dear Cousin. Birthdav Wish. Hai>pv May thy Birthday be". \ Birthdav P.lessing. Dear 'st, I Love but Thee, The Lily Kdmember Me. To mv Dear Sister. To my l>ear Mother. True Love. Aikiiess orders to Compliments of the Season (iod is Good. The Loi