•mm LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. l^ 3^ ^n^.:py§npivi0'^rj Shelf rR4:(o 3 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. .29. PRICE, TEN CENTS. Published Monthly By Subscription $1 20 Per Annum April 1894. Entered at the New York Post OflSce as Second Clas's Matter Copyright, 1894, by P. M. Luptos. The Practical Guide to Floriculture. By EBKX E. REXFOKD. HoM^ to Have a Good Flower Garden Most lovers of flowers will want a garden if donditiona are favorable to their Laving one. Those living in the country will find few diflScul- tiea in the way, but those living in the city will often have "to make a tight of it " to overcome the conditions which prevail there. But " where there is a will there is a way " holds good here as in other undertakings, and the woman who has a genuine love of flowers in her heart will contrive to have at least a few common kinds growing in her back yard, if she lives in the city whore front yards are the property of the wealthy. Let me give a few simple, practical inetruc- tions about making a garden in the country, and the dweller in the city who would like to grow a few flowers for herself can apply them to her gardening operations as completfly as possible. being sure that the nearer she comes to having her city garden prepared like the country gar- den the surer she will be of getting good results. Of course she cannot overcome all unfavorable conditions, but she can attempt to do so, and the more successful ber attempts the better her chances of having good flowers. Tho initial step in making a good garden con- eists in having the ground spaded or plowed at least a foot deep. Do this as early as possible in spring. You need not try to pulverize it at the time of spading or plowiog. It will generally be 80 wet and heavy at that time that this cannot be done with any degree of sucoess. Let it lay and take the benefit of a sun-bath for a few days. Gradually the water will drain out of it, and in a week's time you can go over it and knock the chunks of soil apart with a hoe. After this is done, spread a liberal application of manure over the bed, and take especial pains to work this in well with the native soil. The best manure is that from the cow-yard. It should have lain long enough to become thor- oughly rotten. If black and easily crumbled, it IS in the proper condition. Fresh manure is never advisable. Rather than use such a fertil- izer I would depend on slops and soap-suds from washing day to furnish nutriment for my plants. If in the city, stable manure is not easily obtain- able, and bone-meal or other commercial fertil- izers can be used. Instructions as to quantity and manner of application will accompany each kind, eo that no mistake need be made in their use. Don't be afraid of expending too much work on your flower-beds. You cannot have them too fine or mellow. Much of your success depends on the condition of the soil at the time of sowing seed ; therefore dig it over, and stir it, and {.pul- verize it, until it 18 free from all lumps, and see that whatever fertilizer is used is thoroughly in- corporated with it. If you want a good garden, you will have to work m it a good deal after you have made your beds and sowed your seed. That is merely the beginning of the season's work. Look out for weeds every day. Pull all you find to-day, and to-morrow you'll find more to pull. Eternal vigilance is the price of a good garden. No garden is a good one in which weeds are permitted to grow. There can be no compromise between weeds and flowers. If weeds are allowed to develop, the flowers will bo crowded out early in the season ; therefore it is of the greatest importance that they should never be allowed to get a foothold. Let war be- gin against them as soon as they put in an ap- pearance, and let it be kept up until you have convinced them that they stand no chance of bo- coming established in your garden-beds. Stir the soil about your plants at least twice a week, using a narrow- bladed hoe among tho larger ones, and a weeder among the smaller kinds. Water at evening, if the season is a dry one. This is very important early in the exist- ence of the plant, because then it has short roots which do not penetrate the soil far enough to get tho benefit of moisture several inches be- low the surface. Later on they will be able to dy this, but until they reach that stage of devel- opment they must be carefully watered if there is lack of rain. In long seasons of drouth, and in localities wh^re thp soil is light and dries out rapidly, it will be necessary to supply water frequently and regularly. In giving water, do it at night, never in the morning. If given in the morning, tbe sun gets at It, and causes it to evaporate so rap- idly that tho plant receives but little benefit from the moisture before it is dissipated. It does not have time and the chance to get down to tho roots of the plants where it must get in order to do any good. If applied at night evaporatioa does not take place to any great extent, and the soil drinks it in, and before morning the plants' roots have appropriated it. Many persons cease to hoe their gardens in » dry season, thinking that the more open and po- rous the soil is the more rapidly it wiU dry out. So they let the beds become crusted over. Their inference is wrong. The plants in those beds that are frequently stirred will retain their freshness long after those in the crusted-over beds have became to turn yellow. Why? Be- cause the light, op<'u, porous soil is in just the condition to take in and make use of all the moisture that comes ^long— and there is more THE PEACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. in an ordinary dew-fall than many suppose— wbile the bed that is covered with a crust does not permit any moisiure from such a source to pen- etrate it. Light, open soils absorb moisture as a sponge does. This is wliy the hoe should bo used on the garden-bed in a dry season. You will see the benefit of having the soil in this condition if you apply water. Every drop of it will be takenin just where and as soon as it is applied, but on the crusted-over bed a large amount will run away before the crust is soak^-d through, and no water can get down to the roots ti.l this 18 done. Therefore, stir the soil often and thoroughly ia a dry season. Save the suds from washing day and the slop basin and empty tbem on your flowerbeds. They are too valuable to throw away. Oneof theessnntialsof a good garden is— good seed. You should always aim to get the best that is to be had. Never buy the cheap stuff which is freely offered. It is always sure to prove dear in the end. Most of it is old seed, bought at a low price, and it cannot be depended on. Buy only of those dealers who have a repu- tation for hoDOsty and fair dealing. They han- dle only such seed as they know will prove satis- faciory. 1 would advise sowing seeds of most plants in pots or boxes out of doors, rather than in the bed where you intend them to grow, because you have them under better control when young when sown in this way. If sown in the beds, fine seeds often fail to germinate because they an^ covered too deeply. Weeds are sure to ap- pear as soon as you give them a chance to start, and if you sow flower-seeds in the beds, it is often difficult and sometimes impossible to tell " which le which " at first, and by the time you are able to distinguish weeds from flowers, the former have got the start of the latter. If seed is sown in boxes, this is not likely to happen. In transplanting seedlings from boxes, there is no waste of plants. You use enough to till your b°ds, and no moro, and what you have left can be given to your friends, or to those who cannot afiford to buy seed. If flower lovers would start their plants in boxes of fine, light soil, and caro for them properly, I am sure there would bo less complaint about worthless seed. When I see how many persons sow their seed in the garden-bed, I do not wonder that many kinds tail to grow. They are scattered over a rough surface, raked in in such a manner as to cover some two or three inches deep with soil, and others not at all, and then left to be dried out by hot sunshine, or soaked to death by heavy, cold rains. By starting your seed in boxes all this can be avoided. I would not sow very early in the season in boxes out of doors, because nothing is gained by it. We are not attempting to get early plants by this method, simply to start plants in such a manner that they can get better attention during the early stage of growth than they would be likely to receive if sowed directly in the beds. In short, as I have already remarked, by sowing them in boxes, we have them under better control than when sowed in the bed, and that is quite important. April is quite early enough to start hardy annuals into growth, if you wait until that time your seed- lings can be kept out of doors nearly all the time. Should a cold spell come along, the boxes can bo covered with blankets, or old carpet, or newspapers. Grown without fire heat, and where they have a free circulation of air, th^y will be as strong and healthy in all ways as plants sown in the beds ever are. If you want your plants to flower freely during the greater part of the season, it is very impor- tant that you keep them from ripening seed. If you allow them to form and develop seed, as they will attempt to do, you will get but few flow- ers after the first crop. All their energies will be bent to the one purpose of p»»rfecting seed whereby to perpetuate themselves. But if you thwart them in this attempt by cutting off the seed-veasels as soon as seen, they will straight- way set about making another effort to carry out their desire, ami you will get another crop of flowers. By persistent eftbrt on your part to prevent the formation of seed, you can keep most plants blooming until quite late in the sea- son, THE BFST ANNUAiy. The Best Annuals. I WOULD always advise amateur floriculturists to select old and tested varieties of anauala for the summer flower garden. In doing this, they are sure of gettiug something they can depend on. They run no risks. Others have given these plants repeated trials, and they have not been "found wanting." But if the amateur gets a craze for " novelties," he is quite sure to meet with disappointment. Some of the new plants are good, of course ; some very good indeed, but the majority prove worthless after being given a thorough trial. To prove this, look over your old catalogues, and you will find that by if'ar the greater share of the " novelties" intro- duced with such a verbal flourish of trumpets gpnerally drop out of the list after a year or two, and are heard of no more. Why V Because they had nothing but their novelty to recommend them to the flower-loving public, and as soon as this was found out there was uo further use for them. To become popular and remain so, a flowpr must have real merit. To indulge a de- sire for novelties, one must often put as much money into one or two kinds, as the plants with which a large garden is filled would cost him, because these new plants are always sold at fancy prices. It is always -wise to invest this money in something you know to be good. If the new plants are really meritorious, you will fiad it out later on, and then you can buy thom. But let those who have plenty of monpy to ex- periment with ascertain the facts relative to tfapir merits or demerits. Because the test of many years has proved how meritorious the standard flowers of the catalogues are, I feel safe in advising amateur florists to confine their selections to that list. They can be sure of having good flowers from them if thi'"y give them a reasonable amount of care, and without that care no flower will be satisfactory. Most of them are kinds that re- qiiire but little attention after they have got well started. Given a good, mellow soil to grow in, fret'dom from weeds, and water, if the season should prove to bo a dry one, they will bloom profusely ; and if kept from perfecting seed, most varieties will continue to bloom throughout the greater part of the season. Sweet Peas. Of these moat beautiful flowers you will want a variety. Some of the newer sorts are simply exqoisite, with their charming combinations of dainty and delicate colors. Pink and white, pink and cream, pale yellow and pure white, scarlet and white, blue' and white, mauve and lilac— there seems no end to the list of desirable varieties. The seed should be sown as soon as possible in spring. Sow in trenches at least tour icchi^s d^ep. If sowed late in the season or in shallow soil, they will be jDretry sure to fail. They must get an early start, and their rooTs must reach down below the upper soil, where moisture and a certain degree of cool- ness is to be found at all times. This is one of the best flowers we have to cut from. Be sure to have a row of them. Nattturtiums. These are excellent for bedding, also for cut- ting. Do not give them a ve-y rich soil, as that induces a rank growth of vine, and gives but few flowers. The Nasturtium com»s in exceed- ingly rich colors, orange and scarlet predomi- nating. Some varieties are a pure yellow, marked with maroon, others a soft cream with darker veins. Plant by themselves. Petunias. This flower is of the easiest possible cul- ture. It comr>8 in various shades of violet, pur- ple, red, mauve and pink, and in pure white, and white striped and blotched or veiued with other colors. We have yeiy few flowers that make a braver show of color, or that bloom more profusely or constantly. By cutting back the tops from time to time, new shoots will be sent up that will bear flowers quite as Ireely as the first ones. Some of the latest varieties, with fringed petals, are very fine. B^ all means keep this plant in a bed by itsolf, as it does not combine well with anything else. Calliopsis. This annual is one of the best flowers we have in yellow. It is very bright and rich in color, ranging from a rich golden yellow to a deep orange, and its central markiiigs of dark brown or maroon are exceedingly fine. It is a profuse bloomer and excellent for catting. This is one of our best flowers for fildng the center of a bed from which a dazzling show of color is desired. Unlike most other annuals, this combines well with other flowers of harmonizing colors, pro- vided it is massed in th*^ center and the others are planted about it as a border. Ten Week Stock. This flower is a late bloomer, and, on. that account, very desirable. It is also a very beau- tiful flower and very sweet. It blooms profusely up to the coming of snow, and, if potted care- fully and cut back pretty well at the time of potting, can be made a good winter bloomer. It comes in various shades of red and purpie and pure white. About half the young plants will produce single flowers. These should be pulled up as soon as the character of the flowers IS seen. . This is the Gillyflower of our grand- mothers. It is very fine for cutting. Balsams. Charming summer bloomers of many colors and shades. The double varieties are as large as a Camellia, which they resemble so much lu form that one strain is called Camellia-flowered. In order to get the finest efi"ect8 from them, tne leaves must bp clipped ofi" or the flowers will be hidden. The blossoms are set thickly together all along the main stalks and the branches. Asters. This is our very best fall flower. It comes into bloom late in August and continues until frost. THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. There are several distinct varieties, all of which are very fine. 8ome are tall fjrowers, others dwarf. Their colors are red, blue, pink, purple ami pure white, and many sorts combine these colors in a most charming manner. In form they closely resemble the popular Chrysanthemum, for which sorno of the white varieties are sold in fall. No garden should be without this flower. Because of its late-blooming character, it should be given a place at one side, as it is not orna- mental during the summer. Pblox. This flower is a favorite because it bloms with such wonderful profusion all through the snason if prevented from forming seed, aud be- cause of its rich and varied coloring. The piuk, and rose, and pure white sorts are best. It is of the easiest culture. Fine for bed where a great show of color is wanted. Morning Glories. The best tall flowering climber we have. Ex- cellent for covering verandas, porches and screens. It often reaches to the top of the second story windows if given stout strings to climb by. its colors are blue, purple, pink and white, exceedingly rich and delicate. An old favorite. Poppies. Old, but none the worse for that. Very showy and easily grown. Some of the lately introduced varieties, like the Shirley strain, 're intensely bright in color, and give a grand show if planted in masses. NeJnopbilH. Very dainty, delicate flowers, of soft, light colors. Useful for cutting. Portulacea. The best plant I know of for a very dry, sunny location. It flourishes under conditions that would be death to most plants. Its flowers are of many rich colors, some siugl*^, some double. All pretty, and produced in the greatest profu- sion. It is a low grower, and therefore fine for beds near the path, or under the windows where one can look down upon them. Amarantbus. This flower is not very desirable on account of its individual beauty, but for massing, or plant- ing whore it can show its mass of color striking- ly, it is very effective. The foliage is red and greon, the flowers in long, drooping racemes of dark red. Exceedingly showy for large beds, especially if bordered with Golden Feather Py- rethrum of some of the orange Nasturtiums. Ageratum. A noat little bushy plant, bearing clusters of feathery blue and white flowers, which are very fine for cutting. Very delicate in tint. Fine for boquet work. Antirrhinum. The well-known old Snapdragon. Very bril- liant in color. Scarlet and yellow, orange and scarlet with white throat, crimscn and white, yellow and blotched. Allyssum A good edging plant, bearing small, pure, white flowers m clusters. Very fragrant. Fine for cutting. Effective when grown in masses, whe'-c a broad show of white is desirable. Candytuft. A profuse bloomer, fine for massing or edging. White and carmine. Of the easiest culture. Celosia. A peculiar flower, that never fails to attract attention, ^etter known as Cockscomb, because of the resen-blance of its ruflle spikes of flowers to the comb of Chanticleer. Rich in colors of red and Cximeon and yellow. Very desirabli^, not only because of its rich coloring, but be- cause of its strikiBg form. I^arkspur, The annual Larkspurs are all charming flow- ers. Double and single. Bscbscboltzia. One of the most showy of all plants. Colors, orange, yellow and creamy white. Better known as California Poppy. Great bloomers. Gaillardias. Very free blooming flowers, of red and yellow, red and orange, red and white, and various other combinations of colors. Mirabilis. The old Four-o'clock. Fine for a hedge or screen. White, violet and crimson ; some va- rieties blotched and striped in a most peculiar manner. Very free bloomer. Marigold. One of the good old flowers which ought not to be overlooked. The French varieties, with their rich yellows and velvety browns, are very fine. Fine for massing. Mignonette. Not showy, but so sweet ! Every garden should have plenty of it to cut from, Scabiosa. Very richly colored dark flowers, which are excellent for cutting, as they are borne on long, wiry stems. Good, when dried, for winter flowers. Zinnia. A strong - growing, branching plant, that is most effective when grown in the background, in beds, hedges, or as screens. Colors, scarlet, yellow, orange, red, purple, salmon and pure white. Mostly very double and shaped like the Dahlia. I shall not extend the list of desirable annuals, because it would be impossible to give space to the mention of all, and 1 have already named THE BEST ANNUALS. enough to afford the most enthusiastic amateirr a wide range of selection. All named are good. There are many not in the list that are worthy a place in any garden, and the catalogues will tell all about them. But those named here are kinds best adapted to the amateur, because they are not delicate, and do not need coaxing in order to get them to bloom. In selecting annuals, do not make the mistake —to which, I think, I have alluded elsewhere— of getting more than you can do justice to. Have fewer sorts, and grow these to perfection, rather than undertake to grow a great many kinds, and find that you cannot give them the care they ought to have. Quality rather than quantity should be the motto of the amateur flower grower, if he would attain to the highest success and satisfaction. THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Carpet Bedding. Carpet Bedding— in other words, such an ar- rangement of plants of varioua colors as to work cut patterns and d^-signa similar to or suggestive of those seen in carpets— is very popular, and moat yards or gardens have a specimen or two of this kind of gardening each summer, and on large lawns we find many of them, some large beds often containing several thousand plants. The great city parks contain most elaborate do- signs, many, "if not most of them, being more striking than beautiful. ^ The only " designs" I have ever seen that I 'admired were tbose in which geometrical patterns were worked out. Portraits, animals and the like attract attention, but there is nothing artistic about them ; indeed, they are burle-^qucs on art, and one soon be- comes tired of ibem, while a less pretentious bed in which angles and circles of contrasting colors interlace with each other, affords the eye a bit of brightness that pleases, at least if it does not educate, the taste to a love for and appreciation of something more truly artistic. Flowering plants should never be used in workiog out these designs, for several rea.sons : -F'lVsm/.— Because a flower was made to be ad- mired for its own beauty— that beauty which consists in form and color and habit of growth. If you use it for mere color-effect, as you must when you work it into a carpet, bed, you degrade it, because you do not grow it for individual beauty; rather, for the mass of color, which can be secured by planting it so close together that all individuality is lost sight of in general efifect. Flowers were not made for such purposes, I be- lieve, and the true lover of them will not care to use them in such a manner as to destroy their principal charm. Secondly.— T^o flowering plants with which I have had any experience bloom so profusely throughout tlie season that they can b^ relied on to give good results when used in combina- tion with plants having richly-colored foliage. In order to secure a solid effect of color, some- thing having more "body "than that afforded by most flowering plants must be tised. We of- ten say that a plant is " covered with flowers," but the truth is that it is never really covered in the literal sense of the word. There may be a great many blossoms, biit they are seldom so plentiful as to give the fffect oif a solid mass of color. Instead, they give us blotches of color on a green ground, which is not what we require in order to produce most satisfactory results. Such results ran only be secured by using plants whose foliage furnishes a mass of color among which no other colors are seen, unless it bap- pens to be variegated, in which case the effect IS quite different from that given by flowers scattered over a plant. r/iircHy— There is a lack of complete har- mony between "foliage" plants and flowering plants. The former can be clipped and kept even as to height without, interfering with gen- eral effect, while flowering plants throw up stalks of unequal height and of spreading habit, thus breaking up regularity aiul eliarpnoss ot outline, on which much of the success you aim r at depends. You cannot clip these plants back as you can the others, because in doing that you would cut off the flowers, thus destroying quantities of that color on which you depend for the effoct sought. The onlv way in which you can secure this color-effect from them is by letting them grow, and when this is done, as I have said, the effect is rough and uneven. It is not so with plants having foliage whose color enables you to work out a design. Cut off their tops, or shorten their side branches, and leaves still remain to give sufiicient color, and other leaves will be produced alonj? the branches, thus making it possible to keep up a show of color throughout the entire season, without sac- riflciog rpgularity and symmetry. The only way in which I would'combine flower- ing plants and plants having bright foliage, is bv using the latter as edging or border for a tied. In doing this great care should be taken in the selection of varieties, or inharmonious effects will result. Iroagioe a bed of pink Phlox surrounded with crimson Coleus! Border such a bed with Madame Salleroi Geraniums, with their pale green and pure white foliage, and the combination would be most charming. The plants most used for carjjet bedding are Coleus,' Achyi-anthes, Alternantheras, Feverfew, or Pyrethruin, Centaurea and Geraniums. In" Coleus we get several shades of red, rang- ing from a light tint to one so dark that it is al- most maroon. Verschafelti, an old sort, is still one of the best amoug the red-leaved class. It retains its color well throughout the hottest season, bears fr^^quent and severe clippings well, and furnishes a mass of solid color which forms an excellent background for the relief or display of lighter colors. Yellbwbird, a variety having foliage of a bright yellow, furnishes perhaps the best mass of this color of any variety we nave. It compares very favorably in all ways with Verschafelti, with which it can be most effectively used, the con- trast and harmony between the two being very fine. There are "other varieties having yellow foliage, but the one named is as good as any I have any knowledge of. The varieties of Coleus having foliage varie- gated with red, white and yellow are pretty, but because of the broken effect of the many colors in the same loaf they are not as useful as the plain-leaved sorts in bringing out a pattern. Achyranthesand Alternantheras are mostly in red and yellow, with combinations of pink and white. Some of the crimson sorts are very fine. They do not produce such a solid, clear color- effect as the Coleus does, because of their blended colors, but they are favorites becaiise they form a dense, low mass of f\)liage which has", at a little distance, a vdvety look, and their mixtures of hues and tints gives them a "changeable" effect which is quite pleasing, and imitates to some degree the gi-ound of a Turkish carpet, in which several colors are used together without any attempt to work out a pat- tern bv them. The"Golden Fevorfew, or Pyrethrum— "Gold- CARPET BEBBING. en Feather '" — as catalogued by some dealers, id a charming plant, where maasea of delicate yellow are required, its feathery foliage produc- ing a light and graceful effect. It cannot be clipped closely as the other plants can without destroying considerable beauty, which consists almost as much in the delicacy of its foliage as in its peculiarity of color. The'Centaurea has foliage of a soft gray, and this neutral color makes it very valuable for use as a background to richer and brighter colors. It is of nearly the same habit of growth as the Feverfew described above, and mu.jt not be too closely clipped. The Madame Salleroi Geranium is a favorite, because it rquu-es no clipping, no training of any kind. When left to itself, it forms a rounded mass of foliage, thick to the base of the plant. It seldom grows to be more than a foot in height and about the same acroas, and can bo used to form liies or masses of solid foliage of most symmetrical outline, because of its close, com- pact habit of growth. Its leaves are a pale green, edged and flaked with pure white. It is extremely eflfeclive when used in combination with the darker varieties of Coleus. Blarshal McMahon Geranium is a good bedder, having greenish-yellow leaves with a dark-brown zone. This is suitable for beds in which tall- growing plants are used, as it is a sturdy grower and does not branch much when kept low— that ia, not sufiScii'ntly to form thick, low plants well set with foliage. The Jloun'ain of Snow variety can be used with it quite effectively, as it is of about the same size and habit. Its foliage is green and white. In selecting designs for carpet-bedding on a small lawn, or in a yard of ordinary size, I would advise choosing those in which the " pattern " to be brought out is quite distinct and simple. Those having elaborate or intricate patterns are better left to the professional gardner, who not only understands the habit of the plants used better than the amateur dooa, and consequently knows what care is required by them, but will be more likely to give them the necessary atten- tion, upon which the greater share of success in this line of gardening depends. It requires a great deal of work and daily attention to make an intricate pattern successful ; but a simple design is less exacting, consequently bptter suited to the amateur, who will not be likely to devote a large share of his time to taking care of bis garden. When you have your beds planted, the work is only half done. After the plants become estab- lished and growth begins, you must go over them frequently with the pruning-shears and trim them into symmetrical shape, and they roust be kept so. If allowed to grow undipped and uncarod for, they soon become straggling and awkward in shape, and the sharpness of outline on which the clearness of the pattern depends is lost. Each color and variety must bo kept within proper limits. Plants in one row must never be allowed to send into or over those in another row. The plants must be given to understand that " thus far shalt thou go and no farther." Clipping off all branches showing a tendency to "reach up" must be attended to quite aa regularly as those inclined to " spread out." I wish to emphasize this advice, because most amateurs are prone to neglect this part of the work, and the consequence is that their beda, as a general thing, have a hazy and indis- tinct appearance as to design. If properly cared for, each color will be as clearly defined as con- trasting colors in a carpet pattern, and the sur- face of the bed will bo a thick, close mass of foliage of the same height, rounding down on the edges to the sward in which it is set. As a general thing, beds in which these plants are usod should not be given much manure, as that encourages too rank a growth. A slow, steady development is what is wanted. In a soil of moderate richness, the joints of the plants will not be far apart, therefore there will be many leaves, and those will not be coarse or overgrown. In a rich soil you will have long- jointed plants, few leaves, and theae large, giv- ing a much less satiafactory effect than you get with slower growth, such as soil of only moder- ate richness gives you. Perhaps some reader would be glad to have me suggest some combinations of the plants named tor small beds. I take pleasure in do- ing so : A star is always effective, and it is easily made. One containing but two colors has the merit of great simplicity, and is quite sure to please. Fill the center with crimson Coleus, edging the design with yellow Coleus, or Golden Feverfew. Should you care to use three colors, run a row of the gray Centaurea between the two colors of Coleus, or use this in the center with the two Coleuses to fill out the design. If your star is a large one, a group of Cannas will be very pretty in the center: or, if you want something still more tropical in appearance, have a Ricinus, or Castor Oil Bean, with its great palmate leaves three feet across, forming a most attractive object as a center-pieco. A Maltese cross is very pretty with a center of Achyranthes or Alternantheras, edged with red or yellow Coleus. Or the center can be Mad- ame Salleroi Geraniums, with an edging of red Coleus. Circular beds are very easy to make, and look well in the curve of a path. In small beds, have but two or three rows of plants. If your bed is a large one, have a row of small circles around the outside, overlapping each other. A fine effect can be secured by planting the overlap- ping circles in red and yellow Colenaes, the cir- cles of each color alternating. Fill in between with Achyranthes or Alternanth'^ras, and edge the bed with Centaurea or Pyrethrum. This will make a very pretty bed if well taken care of. If raised in the center the effect will be finer than if flat. If situated at a prominent point on the lawn, a large group of Cannas or Eicinus as a center will add greatly to its effect. Do not adhere to old designs. Originate some, and thus avoid having your garden a duplicate of your neighbor's. But do not make the mis- take of selecting a too elaborate design, or of having too many of them. A small yard cannot stand many beds of this kind. One is quite enough for "the ordinary yard. THE FEAGTIGAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTTntE. Summer Blooming Bulbs, and Plants for Tropical Effects. The very best snmmer-blooming bulb we have is the Gladiolus. Nothing can compare with it favorably in rich and varied coloring. It ranges through all shades of scarlet, crimson, rose, violet, lilac and carmine, to white and pale, delicate yellow, and nearly all varieties have such combinations of all these colors, in blotches, flakings and stripes, that words fail one in attempting to describe them. The only term that suits this flower is - magnificent. It has the delicacy of the Lily, as to texture, and the brilliant tints of all our most vivid flowers in its wide range of colors. No flower is of easier cultivation. The soil should be Ught, rich, and mellow. Plant the bulbs six inches deep. Do this in May, when the ground has become warm, but not before. The finest effects are produced hy planting in groups, or masses. I would advise planting never less than half a dozen bulbs together. Do this, and you got a large enough number of flower-stalks to give a massive effect, which is not th<^ case when bulbs are planted singly. If planted in rows, put tbo bulbs close to- gether, and string wires along tho rows, fmm stakes set at each end, to tie the flow^r-stalka to. If this is not done, they are likely to be blown over or broken dowu by sudden winds. In fall, after frost has killed the tops, dig tho bulbs, and expose to the sunshine for three or four days, covering at night. Then cut the stalks to within six inches of the bulb, and put them away in a cool room un(il the stalk is ready to separate from the root. Then put the roots in dry sawdust, or buckwheat hulls, and store in a room safe from frost, but not warm enough to induce growth. Very fine collections of tho Gladiolus can be bought for small sums of money, of all dealers. In no way can more satisfaction bo gained for money expended on the garden. Tuberose. This bulb would be cultivated extensively by flow'^r- lovers everywhere, if it could be de- pended on. But there is so much failure with it that not many attempt to grow it. It must be started early, given a light, rich, warm soil when put out in the garden, and protected from the slightest frost. Care mnst bo taken to get flow- ering bulbs. At the north a bulb does not flowir a second time. Some unscrupulous dealers will gf'nd out old bulbs, knowing that they will not bloom. Buy your bulbs of reliable dealers only. Dahlias. This plant is not of bulbous nature, but refer- ence to it belongs hero, as it is a summer bloomer, like the Gladiolus. It is not a satisfactory plant at the north, un- less started into growth early in the season, be- cause it is a native of the south, where the sea- son is long and warm, and generally moist. To succeed with it at the north, wo must start ir, early, give it a rich soil, when planted out, and largo quantities of water. If this is done, we can bring it into bloom in July and August, thus getting flowers before the time of frost. If the tubers are not started to growing before being planted out, the plants will generally be full of buds by the time frost comes, and a slight frost will kill them. The double varieties are very showy, but I do not like them as well as the semi-double and single sorts. The range of colors is very wide, and richer colors are found in no flower. Iiilies. Perhaps these flowers ought to have been treated of in another chapter, because they are hardy plants ; but they are summer blootiier.--, and I speak of them here bf-cause they come into bloom along with the Dahlia and the Gladi- olus. They should be planted in fall, when Hya- cinths and Tulips are, and in soil prepared ex- actly as advised for those bulbs. I Every garden should have its bed of Lilies ; I or, if one does not care to have them in beds, they can be planted in groups, among shrub- bery, or in the border. They are beautiful any- where. After becoming well established, they require very little care. Once a year, dig some old and well-rotted manure in about them, tak- ing care to not disturb the roots. Throw some leaves or litter over them in fall. The following are good kinds for the amateur to begin with : Speciosum ruhrum, white, spotted with red. Speciosum album, white, slightly tinged with rose. Auratum, the Gold-Banded Lily. A superb sort, white, spotted with chocolate-crimson, with a bright yellow band down the center of each petal. One of the best. BatemauniiB, apricot yellow. Tigrinuni, the well-known old Tiger Lily— orangf, spotted with black. Candidum -pure white, and exquisitely b<>au- tiful. Flowors large, and trumpet-shaped. Very fin<^, but not entirely hardy at the extreme north. Where it can be depended on, it is one of the most desirable varieties. CaJudium. This plant has enormous leaves, and is very eff"ective when grouped in the center of a large bed. It must be given a rich soil and plenty of water. 3Iusa. Musa ensete, or Banana, is a very striking plant wbou well growQ. Like the Caana and Cala- SUMMER BLOOMING BULBS, ETC. dium, it must be Kiv<^n a deep, strong soil. The leaves are frequently four and five feet long, and give a most striking appearance to any bed in which the plants are grown. This plant com- bines well with the Canna. Catinas. These plants are becoming more popular every year. They were formerly grown for their foliage, which is large and luxuriant, uouse* quontly well adapted for beds where tropical ef- fects are desired. During the past few years, florists have produced varieties having flowers almost as large and fine as a Gladiolus blossom, and the Canna now has a great future before it as a flowering plant. In order to secure the best results, give the roots a very deep, rich soil, and plant close together. Effective when planted in beds by itself, or in combination with other plants having tropical foliage. 10 THE Pli ACTIO AL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Herbaceous Plants, Evert year I am more and more impressed with the value of hardy plants for the amateur florist. They are good for jeare, when properly planted and thoroughly established, and given such care as tliey require, which is slight in comparison •with that demanded by nearly all other classes of plants grown by the amateur florist. The term " proper care " is one in which there are several degrees. In the lower degree it means simply keeping ■weeds from encroachmg on th^ plants, and that is about all the care such plants as those under consideration in this chapter will be likely to re- ceive from many amateurs. And it ia a fact that most varieties will do quite well with this limited attention, and that is something that cannot be said of annuals. The next degree adds to keeping down the weeds, the regular and liberal fertiliz^ition of the soil, which is a matter of prime importance in developing the plants in a manner calculate'l to satisfy the enthusiastic florist who is not con- tent with simply getting flowers. What he wants is fine flowers. Quality is more to him than quantity. In the third degree is included many little items of attention which I need not mention here, but which the careful, conscientious culti- vator will come to fully understand, as his ex- J)erience enlarges, if he studies his plants close- y. There are many things about the success- ful culture of plants of all kinds that can much better be learned by expf>rionce and observa- tion than by the study of books. Little items, which seem "trivial and" unimportant when read about, but which are the opposite. The most successful growers of flowers are those who give attention to the minutioe of the occupation. They have a knowledge that is not " put down in the books "—a knowledge that must be acquired by personal expeiience. But all this may be considered a digression. What I set out to say is this : For the lover of flowers who has not a great deal of time to devote to the cultivation of plants, herbaceous and perennial plants— those more commonly called "border plants— are the kinds to be selected, because of the ease with which they are cared for, and the generous returns they inake for the labor expended on them. It requires less care to ke&p a comparatively large collection of them free from weeds than it takes to clear even a small bed of annuals of weeds. The hoe can be used among them, but it cannot among annuals, during the early etagos of their growth, and work with the hoe will be found far pleasauter and easier than hand-weed- ing is. I would not be understood as advising the neglect of annuals, but as advising the cul- tivation of border plants, in preference, by those whose time is limited. I do advise growing more hardy border plants, and fewer annuals, how- ever. I would have the best of each. Plants of this class, as a general thing, like a deep, rich, mellow soil, in which their roots can sprend out, and reach down easily. As many varieties do not bloum during the early part of the eenson, I would give them a place somewhat in the background. It is a good plan to have a row of them along the fence separating lots. If those owning land I'U both sides of the fence put their plants there,, the fence will be hidden by them, and the eflV'cl is very pleasing. Some kinds can be planted among shrubbery very ef- fectively. But do not i^lant any in beds immedi- ately iij front of the house, or very close to it. Reserve such places for annuals and bedding- plants from which you will be likely to get flow- ers during the greater part of the season. One of our very best perennial plants is the* Phlox. It has long been used tor producing a strong show of color, its great cluster of thiculy mass'id flowers making it especially valuable for this purpose. But lately, vari' ties bavo been producd which are wonderfully beautiful when the individual flower is taken into consid- eration. Some of the new varieties have flowers as large as those of thf best types of the Gera- nium, «ith hundreds of them in a single trues. These trusses are often a foot and a half in length and a foot across. When the great size of the truss is taken into account, the number of them on each plant, and the length of time the plant is in bloom, the good qualities of this plant will be more fully realized by those who have seen it but have not grown it. I consider it the best hardy summer-flowering plant we have for general culture. Its care is of the simplest. It likes a rich soil. It likes to have the grass and weeds kept from clioldng it and robbing it of nutriment. Beyoid this it makes no demands. Year by year "its roots in- crease in strength and the clump grows larger and larger until you have a plant three or four feet across, which seems, at a little distance, to be one solid mass of flowers of all shades of crimson, violet, rose, red, and purple, to pure white. It is so entirely hardv that I have never heard of its being winter- killed under any cir- cumstances. It can be grown from se"d, but the best method of propagating it is by division of the roots. A large percentage of "seedlinga will give flowers quite tialike those of the parent plants, but plants obtained by division of the roots will give precisely the same flowers aa those borne on the old plants. If you want the choicest sorts you can only be sure of getting them in this way. The following kinds are among the best vari- eties of this flower : Lothair, salmon rose, very soft, bright, and beautiful. Washington, white, with rosy-purple center. Cross of Honor, light rose, striped down each l^etal with white. Very fine. Sir E. Landseer, very rich, dark crimson. Miss Robertson, pure white. A tine efifect is secured by planting in clumos. If the bright-colored varieties are given a place HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 11 in the center, with white varieties about the out- side of the group, contrast is secured which heightens the general effect. Next to the Phlox, I would place the Holly- hock. I would give it first place on the list were it as hardy and robust as the Phlox, but it is not, therefore it is not as well adapted to gen- eral cultivation. It generally does well for one season. The second season the plants soem weak, and the third they are worthless. This applies to the new and double varieties, which seem to have gained their beauty at the expense of their vitality. The old, single sorts were very robust, and gave good crops of flowers year after year. The newer varieties are won- derful improvements on the old. Their flowers are as double as Koses, ranging through all shades of red, scarlet, purple, crimson, rose, yellow and maroon, that is so deep and intense in tone aa to seem black, to pure white. Noth- ing is more effective for bold and prominent locations than large groups of the Hollyhock, I consider it a mistake to give this plant a very rich soil. Such a soil may give you larger and finer flowers than a moderately fertile one ; but it is my experience that those grown in a soil highly manured do not contioue in flower for so long a time, and their blossoms do not last as long, as those not so highly stimulated. In other words, that plants not forced to a rapid development have more strength and " staying" qualities than those under high cultivation. I would advise sowing seed each year, so that a supply of strong, young plants can be always on hand. Seed should be sown in June or July. The young plants should be given a covering of leaves in fall. The next spring plant them where they are to bloom. The Aquilegias, of which there are several varieties, are among our best border plants. I E refer the pare, pale yellows, the rich, delicate luos, and the white varieties. By all means have a bed, or several clumps of tliem. There are double and single kinds, both very deeirable. 12 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Coroopsia lanceolata is one of the new plants sure to win its way to popular favor. It is very hardy. It sends up many sleufler stalks, crowned with blos- soms of the richest yellow. It is not a large grower, therefore should be given a place in the front row. For cutting, it is quite as desirable as the annual vari- eties, which it closely resembles in form. It lacks the rich browu markings of the annual kind, and does not bloom as freely, but it continues to blossom until froat comes. The Dicentra. with its beautiful fern- like foliage, and long, gi-acefully arching sprays of drooping pink and white flow- ers, dpserves a place in every collection. This flower is popularly known as " Bleeding Heart," because of its pecu- liar shape. The pink and white herbaceous Spireas are extren)ely beautiful, ani no garden is complete without them. Their panicles of bloom have such an airy, graceful efiect, lilted, as they are, on long, slen- der stalks, well abiive the foliage, that they seem dainty piumos waving in the wind. For back rows m the border they are amonjj our best plants. They truns- plant easily and safely, grow rapidly, reciuire but little atteutiOD, bloom freely, A(tUIIi£OIA. HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 13 and are hardy everywhere. For cutting, for use in tall vases, we have no liner flowers in the entire section of herbaceous plants. Every garden should have its clumps of Peo- nies. Fiue plants of this favorite old flower are magnificent when in full bloom. Clumps are often seen four and five feet across, bearing hundreds of flowers. This is one of the plants that increase in beauty with age. Give them a rather heavy clay soil, and disturb the roots as little as possible. Each fall spread a liberal amount of well-rotted cow-manure about the 14 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTUBE. plantf, and in spring dig it into the soil about them The perennial Larkspur is wonderfully effec- tive when grown in large clumps or masses. It is of vigorous habit, and tall and stately in char- acter. The intense depth of color which char- acterizes the blue vaneties makes it one of our most decorative plants. This is a back - row The " coming " flower in the hardy class is the Iris, in the new Persian and German varieties. Such a wonderful range of colors, rich and deli- cate, one can find nowhere else. The blues and yellows, the purples and maroons, the mauves and silvery grays, ai-e simply exqnisite. Tbey have all the richness and variety of color which renders the Orchid so popular. Their magnifi- plant, where it can be made to do excellent ser- vice as a foil and contrast to pale, sulphur - yellow Hollyhocks. Achilleas are not grown as extensively as they deeerve to be. They have delicate ana beauti- ful foliage, and charming white and pink flowore. for cuHiog, thoy are very valuable, cent colors, and the harmonicas and etriliing combinations of them in the same flower, the froedcmi with which they are produced through a long seat>on, and their ease of cultivation, make them favorites everywhere. They do best in a moist soil, but will grow very well anywhere. The Myosotis, or Forget-my-DOt, is a charm- nEJlBAOEOTTS PLANTS. 16 ing little plant for the front row. It likes a moiet, shady place. Its flowora are star-shaped, of a delicate blue with yellow eye. It blooms during the greater part of the season. Excel- lent for cutting, to use in small bouquets. The Sweet William of to-day is a great im- provement on the Sweet William of twenty-five years ago. The newer sorts are magnificent in intensely rich shades of crimson, scarlet, and maroon, beautifully marked with pure white. A low grower. Digitalis, or Foxglove, is a tall-growing plant, with long spikes of drooping flowers. Suitable for back rows. The Canterbury Bell, or Campanula, blue and white, is a good border plant. The single varie- ties are bent. No garden should be without its Pinks. The Chinese varieties bloom the first year. The old- fashioned " Grass Pinks" are as sweet and rich in color as the greenhouse Carnation, and are favorites for cutting. There are several classes in the Pmk family, all deserving attention by the cultivator of lovely flowers, Platycodon is a newcomf-r, but it has already won friends. It has bell - shaped flowers of blue anfl white, produced throughout the greater part of the season. Helianthus muUiflonis is a great acquisition to our list of hardy plants for the central States and the South. North of Ohio it often fails to survive the winter, if left in the ground. It is a member of the Sunflower family. Its flowers, which are produced in gi-eat profusion during the latter part of the snason, are very double, and of a dark, rich yellow — a color greatly needed to give tone and brightness to the garden where few yellow flowers are seen. This flower is excellent for cutting. 16 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. The old Rocket still hrilds its own, and it ie, indeed, one of our best plants for massing. The two varieties most grown are purple and white. This is most effective when grown in clumps. Tl)e Oriental Poppy is extremely showy. The flowers are of great size, borne on long stalks, and of the most intense scarlet, with a black blotch at the base of each petal. This flower produces a most striking effect when planted in masses, where its vivid color can have a dark background to display itself against. For eflging beds of hardy plants, the Daisy is the best plant we have. It must be borne in mind that the Daisy spoken of (Bellis of many catalogues) is not the Daisy of the meadow. It is a very low-growing plant, bearing flowers of pink and white about the size of a silyer quarter, very double, and altogether charm- ing. 1 have named above only the best and most popular plants of the herbaceous or perennial class. There are many other kinds well deserv- ing a place in any garden, but lack of space makes it impossible to speak of them all. Look over your catalogues, if you desire to acid to your collection. You will find all that are worth grow- ing described there. The proper time to transplant border plants is in spring. If this is done then, tbe plants be- come well established during the season, and go into winter quarters in a strong, hf^althy con- dition. If it is not done until tall, they do not have suflicient time to fully establish themselves before cold weather conies, and thRv are gen- erally injured by the long, severe winter. SHRUBS. 17 Shrubs. Every garden or yard should have at least a few shrubs. There "is a dignity and irLY those who havo grown bulbs in the gar- den know how to appreciate them fully. Com- ing into flower with the going of the snow, and continniDg through the remaindpr of the spring months, as tbey will if one is cai'eful to plant a sufficient variety, they help to extend the yearly season of flowers wonderfully. Were it not for tliem, we would be obliged to wait un'^1 June for flowers, except those of a few early herbaceous kinds, and all of us know what a long and dreary time of waiting it is between the last March enowbtorm and the warmth and beauty of a real June day. But with a bed of bulbs we may have a Hhf'W of bloom ^vhose beauty is quite equal to that of any of the fall months'through the entire month of April, and May becomes almost a sum- mer month, so far as color and brightness in the garden is concerned. Grow one bulb successfully, and after that you will not willingly be withouta bed of them, and in all probability one bed will not satisfy you. That one first bulb will give you a hint of the wealth of beauty and pleasure in store for you if you plant Snowdrop and Crocus, Tulip and Hvacinth, and the charming Narcissus or "bafiv-down-dilly" of the poets, who have loved this flower from time immemorial, and who have sung its praises in such lavish fashion that, were it possible to make a flower conceited, it would be a verv vain, conceited flower indeed. There is something about this flower that wins the heart of the flower-lover at first sight. It is among the bulbs what the Rose is among the class to which that favorite belongs, and not even the queenly Lily outrivals it in its hold upon the heart of the lover of all that is beauti- ful and sweet among flowers. In order to grow bulbs well they must planted in fall, and as early in the season as possible. Bulbs make their annual growth in spring. They ripen during the early part of summer. After that they are prepared for market by the dealer. The sooner they are put into the ground after they come into the market the better for them. September is as early as the bulbs can be ob- tained from the dealers, under the most favora- lole circumstances, and, as a general thing, about all you will be likely to get from them during this'montb is the catalogue, which is sure to be- wilder and fascinate you with its engravings and its charming descriptions of the beauty you can buy for a small amount ol money.. Ord"rs are not filled to any great extent until October. But all necessary work in the bulb-beds should be done in Septeml)er, so that the bulbs can be put into the ground as soon as received. The firi>t thing to consider is location. If possible, select a place eloping to the south, and let it be naturally well-drained. You can- not expect to have fine flowers from any bulb if the drainage of the soil in which it is planted is not good. If water.'" from heavy spring rains and melting snows stand about their roots the bulbs will be sure to become diseased, and that is the end of all chances for good flowers. Bulbs insist on having a soil to grow in in which water is not retained for any length of time in sfring. If you cannot give them such a place, do not try to gi'ow them. Even if you consider the location of your bulb- bed a fairly well-drained one, it will do no harm to treat it as if you were not quite sure about it. It is better to be positive about it than doubtful. Let us suppose that you are beginning work on a bed or bulb. The first thmg to do is to take a spade and turn up the soil to the depth of at least a font. It will do no harm it you go deeper than that, but on no account fail to work the ground to a depth less than a foot if you want good plants. Throw the soil out of the bed, and let it lie where the sun can get at it. It will come out in chunks, but after the sun has shone upon it for a day or two, you will find it ready to crumble beneath the hoe or rake. Before returning the soil to the bed, collect all the old rubbish in the shape of tin cane, broken dishes, boots and shoes, and the like, that can be found about the premises, and dump these into the bottom of the excavation. Let there be at least six inches in depth of it. By doing this you will be killing two birds with one stone — you will be providing material to assist in the "perfect drainage of your bod, and you will be getting rid of refuse that is unsightly. Having provided for drainage, till the bed with soil. Mix with it a liberal quantity of thor- oughly rotted cow-manure, if possible to obtain it. VVork it into the soil as evenly as possible. You need not be afraid of making the soil too fine or too mellow. Indeed, cne of the secrets of success in bulb-culture consists in having a rich, deep, mellow soil for them. Use no fresh manure. Unless you can get that which is at least a year old it is better to go without. If the soil is a somewhat heavy one, lighten it by mixing in sand, old mortar, or coal ashes, if you have nothing better at hand. A light, open, porous soil that never becomes hard in the dryest weather is the beet one you can have for buibs. You will find that your bed is considerably higher than th(^ ground about it when you at- tempt to put back the soil thrown out of it, espe- cially if you have provided liberally for drain- age. This is as it should be. Have the center at least eight inches higher than at the edges, and if it is a font it is just as well, for when the loose soil comes to settle, as it will after a little, there will be none too much elevation. Not only does such a bed display the flowers on it more eflectively than a nat one, but it prevents water from rain or snow from standing on it. The size of your bed will of course bo deter- mined by the quantity of bulbs you intend to plant. If you look over the instructions in your catalogue ciirefully, you will tind rules to guid« you in planting the bulbs described in it, and I need not take space here to give them. It will THE CULTURE OF OUTDOOR BULBS. tell you how far apart to plant tho ■various kinds, and a little calculation will enable you to tell how large a bed you must prepare for the num- ber you order. Never make the mistake of planting any bulb singly if you want a strong eflfect. Always group them. I would advise planting each kind by itself. A much more satisfactory efiect is secured by keeping Tulips, Hyacinths, and other varieties in beds by themselves. While they are all bulbs, they do not all harmonize, either m habit, color, or season of flowering. If you do. not have enough of any one kind to fill a bed, give up the bed system, and jslantthem in little clumps. The Hyacinth, which is a general favorite among bulbs because of the bright color of its blossoms, and its delightful fragrance, comes in advance of tho Tulip, and is preferred by many to that brilliant ana justly popular flower. If I were obliged to choose between the two, my choice would be the Hyacinth. There are single and double sorts. My pref- erence is for the single varieties, because the flowers standout more clearly and gracefully on the stalks, not being as crowded as the double ones are. I am inclined to think, from past ex- perience, that the sin file kinds are more to be depended on for a good crop of flowers than the double varipties. As to color, we have red, white, blue, and yellow, with many intermediate shades, so that all tastes in this direction can be suited. I would never advise planting a mixed collec- tion, if separate coior.s can be afforded. Where all colors are planted together, the effect is very much the same as where different kinds of bulbs are grown in the same bed. There is a lack of harmony, and a weak effect generally. Eods, blues, and yellows growing together pro- duce a brilliant mass of color, but the combina- tion is not pleasing to the critical eye. If you like a contrast of colors in the same bed, and can afford the expense of buying bulbs in collections whose colors are guaranteed by the florist, fine effects can be produced by planting in rows of distinct colors, either red and white, blue and white, or red and yellow. Designs of stars, diamonds, and the like can be worked out quite effectively by using the vari- ous colors in solid masses. If both double and single kinds are grown, I would give each kind a bed by itself. In planting Tulips, care should be taken to not mix the early and late varieties. If you do, you will have a straggling procession of flowers, instead of a massive and satisfactory displuy of each kind, during its proper season, as you may have if you i^lant intelligently. There are s'^v- cral classes of Tulips, and it is well to keep these by themselves. The range of colors in the Tulip family is wonderful in variety and brilliancy. There are scarlets and crimsons so vivid as to dazzle the eye ; brilliant yellows, and delicate, soft pinks, pure whites, deep purples, and glowing vermill- ions, and many varieties in which contrasting colors are blended in stripes, flakes, and blotches. The Parrot section is well named, as it includes all colors j^eculiar to the bird from which it takes its name, but it is not as beautiful as the other kinds, and it is not as reliable as they are. Among the most desirable varieties of single Tulip for the amateur, I would name the follow- ieg: Artus, deep scarlet. Ghrysolora, pure yellow. Joo9t von Vondel, rose, striped with white. A lovely flower. La Reine, white, tinted with rose. Wouverman, purple. Colour Ponceau, crimson and white. Duchess de Parma, crimson and orange. Proserpine, deep rose. Grani due de Russie, violet aad white. The Due von Thol varieties come in scarlet, crimson, yellow, rose, and white. They can be bought cheaply in collections in which the sev- eral colors are kept separate. Where one has a good sized bed to fill, and wants the colors by themselves, this is the best kind to order. If you want specially fine varieties, the list given above can be relied upon as including the best of their class. The doubles come in early and late varieties, and each class should be kept by itself in order to secure evenness of bloom. I name a few cf the most distinct varieties of the early doubles : Couronne d'Or, golden yellow. Duke of York, rose, edged with wh'ite. Marriage de me Fille, crimson striped and flaked wiih pure white. Rex Ruborum, bright scarlet. Salvator Rosa, pink and white. La Caudeur, pure white. If a bed is planted with Rex Ruborum and La Candeur, the result is very satisfactory, as they bloom at the same time, and the size and height of fliwor is the same. Below I name a few of the late doubles. Thfso will come into bloom after most other sorts have passt^d their prime : Orange Kroon, bright orange. PouprePordre Blanc, violet, edged with white. Rose du Printemps, white and rose. Rose Eclante, crimson. Admiral Kingsbergen, yellow, striped with red. There are two other classes of Tulips, a few of which should be included in all collections— Pybloems, with white ground marked with lilac, purple, or black, and Roses, with scarlet, pink, or red markings on a white ground. The Daffodils are mostly in white, cream, and bright yellow. Some show tints of red and .■scarlet. Some are single, some double, all beautiful. They are most effective when planted in clunips hero and thero, in the grass of the lawn, in the border, and among the shrubbery. You cannot have too many of them. They are excellent for cutting. The Crocus is a charming little thing wh.=n planted in masses or groups. It comes in white, purple, and yeUow, and some varieties are beau- tifully variegated. Be sure to have a bud of them. The Snowdrop is a dainty flower that oftea shows its smiling face before the snow is gone. There are three good varieties — the single whitf, the double whit«, and the Giant, a variety having large flowers of pure white with emerald throat. Plant these flowers here, there, any- where, evprywhf^re, and you will be delighted with them. Two good flowers to plant in connection with 26 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Crocus are Chiondoxa, blue, with white center, and Scilla Sibrica, blue. In November, when you think the ground is about to be frozen, cover your bulbs with coarse manure, leaves, or litter of some kind. Let tbis c.vering remain on in spring until you see the tips of some of the plants peering through. Then remove it very carefully, that none of the tender shoots may be injured. If cold nights come on, as they aro likely to all through March, and often well along in April, at the north, throw a blanket over the beds, first plac- ing stakes at the corners and in the center to prevent the covering from falling or resting on the plants with such weight as to break them. The bulbs will ripen in a few weeks after flow- ering. They can be taken up then and reset, if desirable, or they can be allowed to remain in the be-d year after year. If left in the bed, annuals can be grown among them without injuring them in the least, if care is taken to not disturb them with hoe or rake in preparing the soil for the others. FLOWERS FOR OUTTTNa. '11 Flowers for Cutting. Until within the last few years flowers have not been planted to any great extent with a view to cutting from them. They were grown to or- nament tbe garden, and it mattered not at all whether they had long stems, or short stems, or no stem at all, so long as there was plenty of flowers and a good show of color. But this has changed, and to-day almost every woman who grows flowers considers their desir- ability for cutting, in selecting them. Flowers are rapidly growing in favor as a moans of pt- r- sonal adornment, and I am very glad of this, for nothing is more beautiful in connection with woman's apparel than a flower chosen in har- mony with the color and general effect of her dress. A flower is one of Nature's jewels. It is always appropriate where any kind of decoration is ad- missible, and always in the best of taste, pro- vided good taste is exercised in its selection. Not all flowers are suited to all persons. Some can wear those of heavy texture and vivid colors who could not wear delicate sorts. A graceful, willowy form seems in harmony with the colors and outlines of some of the rare Orchids, while on a woman of stout build and considerable adipose tissue such a flower would seem out of place. Suit the flower to the woman who is to wear it, and one can well do without "jewels of gold and precious stones." Id selecting flowers from which to cut for per- sonal decoration, one of the first things to con- sider is length of stf^m. Short-stemmed flowers may be very attractive in themselves, but they cannot be arranged attractively. Yoa cannot form them into a bunch for the throat or corsage without huddling them so closely together that all individuality is destroyed. You get a mass of fine color pr'rhaps, but nothing else, while what you want most is a flower standing out so prominently from the foliage which should always accompany it as a foil and contrast to its beauty that its individuality is distinct. Its form, and every outline, should be apparent to each observer.' One flower, so displayed, is always more effective than many so arranged that "they become a mere mass of color. One reason why Sweet Peas and Chrysanthemums are so popular is, that they have long stems which enable the individual flowers to display themselves to advantage. It is never ceeessary to crowd them, hence it is possible to preserve tbe delicate outline and natural grace of each blossom, no matter how many you use at a time. Individuality is not sacrificed. Have you never thought of flowers as persons ? In a small congregation of people you do not lose sight of the peculiarities of each one ; but in a large crowd you cease to notice the pecu- liarities which characterize the individual. It ia precisely the same with flowers. A few are better lor most purposes than many. This is always true where it is desirable to call att-^n- tion to beauty in its highest aspects, which is another term fir individuality. Always treat a flower as you would a person if you want it to appear to the best aflvantige. Think this over, and you will see the force and justice of the advice. The Eose is a favorite for personal adorn- mpnt, but most persons living in the country, away from greenhouses, are not able to enjoy Roses throughout the season, because the col- lection in tbeir garden does not include sorts, as a general thing, which bloom after July. Some may have a few hybrid perpetnals from which a few flowers can be gathered at intervals, but these cannot be depended on with the treat- ment which they usually receive at the bands of amateur gardeners. But tbere is no reason why Roses should not be enjoyed from June to tbe coming of cold weather by every woman who has, or can have, a garden. The teas. Noi- settes, and Bengal varieties are constant bloom- ers, when given proper treatment, and they ard excelled by none m beauty of form, color, and delicious fragrance. Nearly all are borne on long stems, and nothing can be more beau- tiful than a spray bearing a half-opened flower, a bud just showing the rich color of its folded petals, and a few of its own leaves. From a dozen plants, costinga very small sum of money, it is easy to have flowers for personal adorn- ment every day throughout; the season, and some to give to friends. I know this to be true, because every year I have my bed of ever- blooming Roses, from which h'andfuls are cut daily, and what is true of a large bed is true in degree of a smaller one. It is surprising to see what a number of flowers can bo cut from one plant in a season, if the right kind of treat- ment is given. " I couldn't use half the Roses that grow on my eight plants," said a lady to me last year. " I was envied by all my lady friends who had no Roses to wear after the summer-blooming varieties were gone." One lady said to mo that she thought I must be get- ting extravagant, as Roses cost so much, and I was wearing them every day. " But mine cost mo next to nothing," I told her. '• I did not buy them— I grew them in my own garden." She could hardly believe me until I showed her my little bed of ever- bloomers. She had got into the habit of thinking, as many other women have, that Roses after July are to be had only of the florists, who ask such a price for them that peo- ple in ordinary circumstances cannot aff'ord to buy them. If women knew how easy it is to grow these Roses, every one would nave some of them. That's it— if they only knew ! But they don't. Year after year I have written about their merits as bedders, and I am glad to see that many are growing them who had given them over to wealthy people as something not meant " for poor folks." All that remains to be done to make tbe ever-blooming Rose as popular among the masses tor summer culture in the 28 TEE PBACTIfAL QUTBE TO FLORICULTURE. garden aa the Gnraninm is for the window-gar- den in winter, is to make them understand that it costs eo little that every one can afford it, and that its culturB is extremely simple, when once understood, and any one who really loves a flower can understand it perfectly after a lit- tle study and observation. should be well fed. Give them all they ran ^^at, and let the food given be such as snitH them best. Nothing in the shape of a fertilizer pro- duces better results among Rosea than old, rot- ten cow- manure. It should- be old and rotten enough to be friable. It should crumble easd^. JVlix in plenty of this with a rather stiflf soil in EOSE— MAD. HOSTE. The ever-blooming Roses depend on constant development of new branches for flowers. With- out a steady growth of su-'h branches there will be no flowers, as all blofsoms are borne on new wood. In ordf-r to keep up the production of new wood, it is necessary to cut back the old branches from time to time. As soon as all buds on a branch have developed into flowers, cut that branch back to Pome etronfj branch- bud. A little observation will enable you to tell what bud to expect best results from. So much for pruning. The condition of the soil is (luite aa important. In order to keep up a steady growth, it is necessary that the plants which clay should play a prominent part, and you can bo reasonat'ly sure of growing good Roses if you carry cut the instructions about pruning them. Stir the soil frequently to admit air and moisture, but do not dig de^p enough to disturb the roots. In hot, dry weather mnlch the soil about the plants with clippings from the lawn, or something that will shade the ground and retain moisture. This is very im- portant. Some of the very best varieties for cutting are the following : Cornelia Cook— Color, creamy white. Form of bud, unsurpassed. FLOWERS FOR CUTTING. 29 Coquette de Lyon— Canary yellow. Exquis- itely perfumed. iJ^toile de Lyon —Golden yellow. Large and sweet. Ductless of Edinburgh — Intense crimson. A lovely flower. Douglas- Cherry red, -i^ith velvety texture of petal. Hermosa — Everybody's Eose. Soft, bright pink, full and sweet. Princess do Sagan — Volvety crimson. I have named a dozen varieties, all good, and EOSE— JACQUEMINOT. Luciole— Cherry red with yellow center. Very fragrant. Madame de Watteville— A peculiar and most charming variety. Croam.v yellow shaded with rose, and each petal bordered with bright crim- son. Called the "Tulip Rose." Marie Guillot— Pure white. Perle des Jardins — Perhaps the best yellow, with the exception of Marechal Neil which it so greatly resembles that it is often sold for that variety. Sunset — A favorite everywhere. Amber, shad- ed with copper and crimson. Sweet. including all the leading colors and shades. Any or all of them will give the best of satis- faction if you give them the treatment I have advised. But I have by uo m^ans exhausted the list of desirable kinds. Indeed, for every kind I have named there are twenty other kinds equally as desirable in many respects, but those I have given special mention to are those which will bo likely to give best results under an ama- teur's care, when grown in garden beds. Por use in tall vases, for the corner of the parlor, or the hall, or wherever a mass of vivid color is required to relieve and brighten shad- 30 THE PRACTICAL aUTDE TO FLORICULTURE. owy places, the Gladiolus is one of our best flowers. Its tall spikes have a stately oflect ■which cannot l»^ secured with brancbing plants. If cut when not more than half the flowers on a spike are developpd. the buds go on growing as if nothing had happened, and though a little lighter in color than the old flowers, because of being in a weaker light, they are quite as per- fect in form. There is nothing in the way of foliage that combines very satisfactorily with this flower, and it is better to use it without any. Do not attempt to arrange the spikes after any set form. Just drop them into the vase and let them arrange themselves. I have already spoken of the Hollyhock for eimi'iar uses. A combiuation of pale yellows and dark maroons is very fine. So is one of pure whites and soft pinks. Use no other flower with the Hollyhock if you want the best effect. In autiimn, grand color-effects can be wrought by using Golden Rod and Asters. These two flowers combine well, the pale, delicate colors of the one contrasting beautifully with, and h'^igbtening the richer hues of the other. At a fall wedding, the parlor was decorated with Golden Rod and Virginia Creeper, and the re- s ;lt was extremely pleasing. Long branches of the vine were trained over the doors and about the pictures, and allowed to fall gracefully and naturally, and the rich colors of the foliage gave a strong tone of warmth to the room, and aflorded an excellent background for the bright yellow flowers, which were grouped or massed, instead of being scattered about thinly. These groups were placed at points about the room where such a mass seemed moat appropriate. and they gave such a rich, bright efl'ect that they suggested clustered lights. Simphcity was the" keynote of the decorative scheme, as it should always be in order to secure most artis- tic results. "Nature should be studied in th^se matters, as her taste is unerring, and she makes no mistakes. Another excellent yellow fall flower which is capable of charming'results in the hands of one who has good taste is Helianthus multiil.orus jylena. This variety of the perennial Sunflower is very bright in color, and lights up a room won- dertullv. Its flowers lack that stiffness and forrn- ality which characterize most members of this family, and are never so large as to be objection- able. I have used them in combination with the semi-double and single Dahlias with satis- factory results. Only dark crimson, scarlet, or maroon Dahlias should be used with them. Grand effects can be produced with the single and half-double Dahlias, using two or three con- trasting and harmonious colors together. For a corner wh<'re shadowy effects soem appropri- ate, nothing can be finer than a great mass of velvety maroon varieties, their rich yellow cen- ters furnishing just enough bright color to re- lievo the darker one in the body of the flower. For a lighter place the rose and white sorts are superb. In a room that you want to make seem lighter thaa it really is, use great quantities of the rich, glowing yellow varieties, and it will be as if you had concentrated the sunshine there. If you want a " white and gold" effect, use the pure white kinds in combination with the yellow sorts, and you will bo greatly pleased with tho result. Always cut these "flowers with long stems to secure the noost satisfactory effects from them. They are fine for use in rose-bowls, if you use enough of them. A few do not an- swer, as they fall apart, and have a sprawly look. Have "so many that the flowers support each other, and hold" each other in place. Cut them with stems of uneven length, and let them stand up or bend over the bowl, to suit them- selves. Another fine flower for use in tall vases, on the table, is Coreopsis Lanceolata. This is a hardy herbaceous border plant, bearing rich yellow flowers about as large as a silver dollar, which are held well above the foliage on long and slender stems. In order to make it satis- factory, cut the stems fuU length, and do not at- tempt to arrange the flowers at all. Simply drop them into the vase, which should have a flaring top, and give them a shake, and lo ! your flow- ers have aiTanged themselves. These remarks about arrangement apply pertinently to the Sweet Pea, which is one of oitr best flowers for cutting. If one attempts to arrange this flower, she is almost certain to meet with failure. But we never seem to be able to understand that Nature knows much more about these things than we do. Sometimes, when I see the stiffly arranged flowers that I'esult from otir attempts to improve on Nature, I imagine that she is laughing in her sleeve at our ignorance and conceit ; at other times I think she feels indig- nant at our presumption. Be this as it may, the flowers are always in complete sympathy with h<'r, and in their" loyalty they refuse to look well when we supersede her methods with our own. They only respond to our ideas of what is proper in as far as those ideas are time to Na- ture's rules and suggestions. Force them to take on forms contrary to those which she has taught them to bo consistent with their habits of growth and they become etubbora and unre- sponsive, and look as awkward and uncomfort- able as a small boy in Sunday clothes. I can never rid myself of the impression that flowers think, and know when we are in sympathy with them. Last season I was much amused at the result of a friend's attempt to use the wild Crab Apple in decorating a room for a parly. Every one who has ever seen this charming tree in bloom knows how graceful it is when seen m its native covert. Bui when you cut the branches, and take them into a room, and try to make use of them in the same way you use ordinary plants, like the Golden Rod, the Hollyhock, or Roses, you find that suddenly all the grace seems to have gone out of the flowers. Why? Simply because the branches were never meant to stand up as you force them to when you put them into a vase that will not allow them to reach out as they did on the tree. They were meant for use in low, wide-mouthed vessels, and nothing else, and unless you can use them in that way ycu ought not to' use them at all. My friend was determined to conquer them, and make them conform to her idea of what was beautiful, and she put them into tall vases thai made them look as uncomiortable as a boy standing on his head. They stood up because they had to, but they had their revenge m look- ing so stiffly ungraceful that they made the room positively uncomfortable in appearance, though I presume not half a dozen persons knew what produced the effect they were dimly con- FLOWERS FOR GUTTING. 31 scious of. The next Sunday, at church, there was a wide-moutlied bowl on the pulpit filled with branches of these sa,m'3 ilowers and the result was exquisite, and the reason why it was BO was simply that the branches were allowed t5 assume such forms as were natural to them. Instead of reaching straight up, as they never do on the tree, they spread themselves out close to the pulpit cushion, making a wide, lew mass of pink and whito beauty that was the perfection of simplifity, because of its naturalness, there- fore a perfect success. For use ia large, low bowls, aa well as in deep vases where it is desirable to have something that droops or trails, we have no vine quite as beautiful as our native Chmatis, with its pani- cles of airy, gi-aceful white flowers. Both flow- ers and foliage are charming. This flower is one of the two or three kinds I would use with Roses. I have made charming decorations of it in combination with the Oleander. Branches of two or three feet in length should be cut, and a weight of some kind attached to the lowor end to hold them in place. If this is not done, they are often drawn out of the water by the weight of their droopj.a«4?i;^^s aad flowers, and when you discover, Vliat has happened, they aro with- ered. Notb^n"° -:-•"*""■ branches are cuj jiiKfe^ftJ wiTtt a top six inches I'SSwi'SSe,. Halt a. dozen in a small ^maSSa to givo each fl.ower.«oa.e_foh.8e; a manner as tu gi'>^ ^^ 1 , u„if oa nleasi white, ana oi , Roses without fohage are only half as pleaai Heavy iiowers ^^^^^-^^^^ ^^'^Jt|°lri™ of usingpink .re charming tor nt.e ........ ^^ , ^^t^^^^^^^^' whitet, and whites and nch yellows are very ---- — 7 -jLiauvci x^i>-io. , ^ 1- hght, air /y graceful appearanc are net /^frpctivo with Roses. , . P'^i^^ies are charming for little bouquets in 1°^^- /flat vessels but worthless when use^ m any °"Vcr way for table or room decoration. annuals, as its leaiuoij' "^ hoiah+pns and contrast for all other colors that heightens ana brings out their beauty well. The annual Calliopsia is very Pr?_".vJoi vases y^^xt^c Xons. and slender stems which hold tue Sowei^s we!l in air. and give them a graceful '^Snonetie should be --ff^^^l^^^tri^, tral color helps to bring out the beat y o ^^ic^^ colors, and its delightful fragrance fills the room ToUVi " odors of Araby the blest. ^ Mies are'favorito Lwers for use in taU vases hilt thev should never be combined with any oSer flower' if you want them to give the best quet a"buttonhore"''bouquet^ or for the one, with a charmiug as ^he'Nasturtium is one of our best annuals for tii.,^ T+a vipb orange and scarlet lints, m Sl£iaS,§S\Sa^taSe or the mantel. 32 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Vines. One of the best vines for uso about voranflas and porches, or for training over wire netting, to form scieen&, is the Clematis. There are many fine varieties, of various colors. Perhaps the most j;~npular sort is Jackmanii. a rich violet- purpW/ '.vith very large flowers. ""'"" '" " "*-"«„ This is a strons Duchess of Edinburgh is a double white va- riety. Beauty of Worcester, bluish violet, with double and single flowers oo the same plant. Lawsoniana, rosy purple. Paniculata, small, pure white flowers, in pani- CLEMATI8. P^ir/n,^;•'^ia^\''^viLXrvarS^Thi' '^r ' friJ'^' rr'- ^-^ - "^-^ or striking a. Ja.kmani.: but ex.ui'.Uely beaufiful.''This1.ul F lawmu a, a native white variotv" with Trac" ful, U-athory flowers, I consider the best of all in'faJrcS' l]f'^''' *^?"*7 '« concerned in lall, cut the vmes back to within two or VI]!iES. 33 three feet of the ground, and lay the top down j Celastrus. on the ground, covering with loaves or litter. Honeysuckle. This old shrubby vine is always a favorite, as it deserves to be. Its flowers are beautiful, 8we>'*t, and produced in great profusion during the season.' Its culture is as easy as that ot any shrub. The leading varieties are : Halleana, white, changing to yellow. Scarlet Trumpet, scarlet. Monthly, red and yellow. Wistaria. For locations south of Chicago this is one of the finest vines that can be selected. North of that point it cannot be depended on, though I have seen very fine specimens much farther north. It is a wonderful grower, often reach- ing the cornice of three-story houses. Its flow- ers are pea- shaped, and produced in great, pen- dulous clusters. There are two leading varie- ties, pale blue, and white. Planted together, the two sorts are very effective. Ampelopsis. This is our native Virginia Creeper. It is one of the finest vines we have, clambering all over the walls and roof, and goina where the Ivy goes, in places where the latter is hardy. In autumn the foliage becomes a brilliant crim- son, and the plant seems a mass of flowers of most brilliant color. Probably oar best native vine for general use, Celastrus scavdens, or Bittersweet, is another excellent native vine. It is a very rapid, vigor- ous grower. Its foliage is always bright and pleasing, and never attacked by worms or in- sects. It bears great quantities of fruit, in drooping clusters, each berry of bright crimson being enclosed in an orange capsule, which di- vides in three parts, and discloses the fruit within. These clusters are as ornamental as flowers, and remain on the plant all winter if not taken by the birds. Aristolocbia. A vine of rapid growth, with very largo, heart- shaped leaves, and brownish flowers, shaped something like a pipe, hence its popular name of " Dutchman's Pipe." Akebia Quinata. A very beautiful and luxuriant vine, with mag- nificent foliage, and flowers of chocolate-purple, having a delicious perfume. A rapid grower, and unsurpassed for covering trellises and ve- randas. Bignonia. A most beautiful vine for the central and southern s'^ctions of the United States. Too tender at the north. Foliage very beautiful. Flowers trumpet-shaped, orange-scarlet in color, and produced in large clusters, contrasting charmingly with the foliage. Known in many localities aa Trumpet Creeper. 34 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. The Propagation of Plants. Most plants that are grown in the window or greenhouse are propagated from slips or cut- tings. " Slip " is the term in general uso among amateurs— it moans the same thing as cutting, which is the professional florists' name— and re- fers to branches cut or broken from the old plant, and inserted in soil or water, where tbey form roots of their own and become independent plants. Nearly all kmds in general cultivation root readily under proper conditions. Some aro quite diflScult to make grow from cuttings, and these aro best propagated by layering, which process will be described farther on. I have spoken of proper conditions. Let me explain what I mean by that. I find that most cuttings strike best— that is, for roots— in an open soil through which the air can circulate freely. This soil should bo kept moist at all times, and warm, for moisture and warmth are conducive to a satisfactory develop- ment of young roots. Under these conditions, cuttings of Geranium, Heliotrope and Fuchsia, and nearly all other plants of a similar class, will strike in a week's time, and not oiie in a hundred need be lost, if care is taken to have it in the right condition at the time of taking it from the old plant. Imperfectly developed wood is not good, neither is too old a branch. There is an intermediate stage of development, wben the branch is neither tough or brittle, and that is the condition your cutting should be in. A little experience in rooting cuttings will enable you to tell at a glance when one is too young or too old. Until you have had this experience, perhaps the best way to tell is to take the branch in your hand and give it a sudden, sharp bend. If it about half breaks, but still seems loth to part, it is just about right, and you will be justi- fied in making a cutting of it. Too green, soft wood rots easily before roots form, and too old wood takes so long to form roots that the vitality in the branch is about used up before roots are formed to feed the plant. Cuttings having a tough bark, like Oleander, Ivy and other plants of similar habit, often root most surely in water. For this purpose use a large-mouthed vial. Fill it partly full of pure rain water, and hang it in a sunny window where the sun can strike the water, but have a paper or shade arranged in such a manner as to pro- tect the top of the cutting from the snn. Drop the cuttings loosely into the bottle. As the water evaporates add more, keeping the bottle about half full. In two or three weeks many cuttings will show tiny white roots at the base. Some will not form roots in as many months. When the roots have grown to be an inch or two in length, and there are several of them, the young plant can be lifted carefully out and set in very light, fine soil, taking great care to not break or bruise the roots, which are very deli- cate at this period of growth. I would advise sifting the soil about th(; ])l!iuts rather than put- ting it on with pressure, lirniing it by putting on a Buflicient quantity of wat(.T to settle it. 1 generally use some such shallow vessel as a soup-plate filled with coarse sand in which to strike cuttings. Of course, if one is goiLg to make much of a business of it, a regular cut- ting-bench with bottom heat is the proper thing to have, but amateurs will find the soup-p'ate quite equal to their requirements. The sand should \>Q pure sand, not a mixture of sand and clay, or sand and loam. These make a muddy mass, in which cuttings do not form roots read- ily. If you have no sand that is free from these elements, wash it until you get rid of the clay and loam, by putting it in a sieve and pouring water over it. The finer portions of soil will run through with the water, leaving a sharp, clear sand, which is what you want. Fill your plate nearly lull with it, and shake it down into a com- pact mass. Pour on enough water to moisten it all through, but not enough to make it icet. As evaporation takes place -and it will be rapid, because the sand is so porous if kept in a warm place— add more water, aiming to keep it in a condition of moisture all through at all times. In this sand insert your cutting, pinching the soil firmly about its base. By following the ad- vice given— that is, keeping it warm and moist — you can be reasonably sure of success. But if jou let it get cold at night, or it dries out. you can be pretty sure that your cuttings are spoiled. If your cuttings root, you will soon notice that young leaves are being sent out at the top of the slip. When four or five leaves have devel- oped, It will be safe to transfer the cuttings to pots. Use very small ones at first, but be sure to see that tliey never dry out. Unless you watch them carefully they will be likely to do 80, as the bulk of earth in each to retain mois- ture is very small, consequently easily aflectod by the atmosphere. It is a good plan to set your little pots close together on sand, and fill in about them with more sand. In this way you can keep them moist at the roots very easily, until it is time to put them in larger pots. If you put them in large pots at first, you make a great mistake. They generally die when treated in this way, and the amateur florist is at a loss to understand why. It is because there is more soil in the pot than the young roots can make use of, and th»3 plants are over- fed. Their stomachs are too delicate to digest the great quantity of food forced upon them, and they die of dyspepsia. Give a young plant just out of the 'cutting-plate a pot not larger than two in- ches across. When this is filled with roots, and not before, shift to a pot of larger size. In selecting cuttings, do not make the mistake of having them too large to begin with. One, two or three inches in length is quite enough. Clip ofi" the leaves on the part to be insertO'l in the soil close to the stalk, and leave but one or two at the top. But do i.ot trim off all the leaves, as some do, because there must be a little leaf- age left on to enable the plant to breathe while roots aro forming. THE PROPAGATION OF PLANTS. 35 In this manner most plants can be propagated readily, as I have said, but some out- door plants are propagated more certainly by layer- ing. Tbis method consists in taking a branch that is thrown out near the base of an old one, and bendiog it down so that a portion of it can be inserted in the soil near the old plant, leav- ing it still connected, however. If a slight break is made on the lower side of the branch, at the point where it goes under the soil, or a little cut is given at that point, roots form more readily, as the flow of sap is checked at that point, and a callous form, from wbi^h roots are sent out. It is well to peg the branch down firmly where it is inserted in the soil, so that it will not be shifting about. A stick should be set near it, and the end of it tied so that it re- tains an upright position. It often takes weeks for a branch to root under this plan, but is gen- erally successful. If you have any doubts about roots having formed, do not sever the connec- tion between the young and the old plant in fall, but let them remain until the following spring. This ia the best way in which to root Ivies. The Gloxinia and Rex Begonia can be propa- gated by taking the thick leaves and laying them down on a saucer of moist sand, which should be kept warm. Before putting them in position on the sand, cut across the thick ribs on the back of the leaf in several places. Then place them so that these places will come in contact with the sand, pinning them down, or fastening them by laying small stones on them. 80 that they cannot be shitted. In a short time young plants will start at the points where the cuts were made. Dahlias can be propagated by division of the tubers, after the manner of Potatoes, being sure that each portion has an "eye," or growing point. Also, by rooting cuttings. Better plants are grown in this way than one will be likely to secure by planting a whole bunch of tubers, as many do. By division, you can get a great many plants, while by planting the whole bunch to- gether you get but one. In starting Tuberoses into growth in the house early in the season, as it is advisable to do at the North, where the season is short, it is always best to cut off the old and withered roots at the base of the bulb before planting them. Cut them off pretty close to the solid portion of the bulb. If this is not done, these old roots often decay before new roots are formed, and decay ia communicated to the bulb througli them, and failure results. Dahlias and Tuberoses, being natives of the South, where the seasons are long and warm, requu'e early starting at the North, in order to insure success with them. Unless started into growth in March or April, they seldom come into bloom before time for frost, and a slight freezing ends them. Dahlias can bo potted in large pots or boxes, without separating the tubers. When it is safe to plant them in the open ground, the tubers can be broken apart. In starting Tube- roses, plant the bulbs in pots of light, sandy soil, and keep them quite warm and modei'ately moist until growth sets in. When you plant them out, turn them out of their pots without disturbing their roots. Many persons want to got a " start of the sea- son " with their annuals. They sow the seed in pots and boxes. The plants germinate, grow rapidly for a short time, and then die off. Why? Generally because they have been forced to make an unnatural growth. They are kept too warm and too moist at the roots, but too dry at the top, and they get bnt little frfsh air. In order to grow seedlings well in the house in the spring, great pains must be taken with them. They must not be kept in too warm a place. A temperature of 65 degrees is quite warm enough for them. Do not water them too much. Just keep the soil moist— never wet. Have the air of the room moist, by showering the young plants with a fine spray, or by evap- orating water on a stove or register. And be very sure to admit all the fresh air possible. Do not open the window so that cold air from out of doors can blow directly on them, but open a door or window at a little distance from them, and let the fresh air come in and mix with the warm air in the room before it reaches them. This is very important. You cannot grow plants well in the house from seed unless you follow these instructions. On all sunny, warm days, it is well to set the pots or boxes out on the veran- da, if it is sheltered from the winds, and let them remain there until three or four o'clock. In this way they become somewhat used to out- door conditions before the time comes to plant them out in the open ground, and they will be all the healthier for it. If kept too close and warm, and away from pure, fresh air, the young plants will be so weak and spindling, and so lacking in vitality when the time comes to plant them out, they will suffer greatly from the check caused by change of conditions, and very fre- quently they die because of it. Plants so weak that this change checks them are a long time in recovering from it, and, as a general thing, plants grown from seed sown in the beds at the time of putting out, the house-grown seedlings get the start of them. The way to prevent this is to take such care of the plants started in the house that thf y are strong and healthy, and able to stand the change when it comes. If care is taken to grow them in this condition, at least a month can be gained by starting them in the house. But I would not advise it for the hardier sorts of annuals, because they are better able to take care of themselves tnan the amateur florist is to take care of them, when growing in pots and boxes. A good deal of labor, and a very great deal of attention i-i required by seed- lings in early spring, if you want them to be what they ought to be. THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLOBICULtUiiE. Soil for House-Plants, Potting, Etc. When the writer of this little manual on flori- culture bogran to grow plants in the house, it was generally supposed by the amateur— because it was taught by the writers on floricultural topics —that a special preparation of soil should be made tor each plant. Since then amateurs, as well as professionals, hava found out that most kinds of plants euit=id to culture»in the house or greenhouse succeed very well if grown in the same kind of soil- that is, that the compost that grows one well will answer as well for the other kinds. This simplifies the work vastly. A very good compost, in which nearly all kinds of plants can be grown satisfactorily, is prepared as follows : Odo- third good garden loam. One-third leaf-mold, or, if this is not obtain- able, turfy matter scraped from the bottom of old sods in roadside or pasture. One-sixth old, wt>ll-rotted manure. One-sixth sharp, clean sand. These elements should be mixed well together. The result will be a compost that is mellow, friable and rich. K turfy matter is used instead of leaf-mold, care should be taken to have it full of the fine roots of the grass, as it is this vegetable matter that takes the place of leaves. Sand is a most important itigredient. Without it, most soils become so firm and compact that water is retained, and souring takes place, lead- ing to an unhealthy action of the roots and the consequent death of the plant. With a proper proportion of sand in the soil it will be always friable, provided the item of drainage is given proper attention. I consider sand of more importance to the well-being of a plant than manure is. If I could have but one, I would choose sand every time, as the condition of the soil has quite as much to do with a plant's development as the quality of it. Very fair plants can be grown in a soil of only moderate richness, if it is open and light, but plants can never be grown well in a heavy, BOggy soil, no matter how rich it may be. In getting ready to pot plants, the first thing to do IS to soak the pots, if new. Put them in a tub of water, and let them absorb all the water they will. If this is not done, the porous clay will draw the moisture from the soil and the roots will be severely injured at the very time when they ought not to be interfered with by any such drawback as lack of sufficient moisture. If old pots are used, they should be scrubbed clean with a stiff brush and soapy water. I consider clay pots, unglazed, preferable to anythivg else in which to grow plants. Boxes answer very well, but the constant moisture inside the box soon brings on decay. It is a much more difficult matter to transplant plants grown in boxes than in pots, because the mass of earth in which the roots are will not slip out of a box smoothly, as it will out of a pot, consequently there must be more or leas distru'baoce of the mots of the plant when change is made. Tin cans are frequently used, but their use is always to be discouraged unless boles are punched in the bottom for drainage. Glazed pots are not as good as unglazed ones, because their glazing destroys their porosity, but if drainage is attended to they answer very well in the living-room. In the greenhouse I would never use them. In potting plants, have a quantity of drainage material ready for use along with your potting soil. This can be made of broken pottery, crockery, brick, or small stones— anything that will not'decay. There should be from an inch to three inches of this put into the bottom of each pot, according to its size, before soil is added. Care should be taken to not have this material too fine, as that causes it to pack firmly in the bottom of the pot, and the application of water brings the soil down among it until the crevices are filk-d and drainage is prevented. Use largo pieces in the bottom, filling in with smaller as you work towards the soil. It is a good plan to put a layer of sphagnum moss over the drainage material. This lasts for a long time, and prevents the soil from getting down among the crockery or whatever is used oelow. By the time it decays the roots will have reached and penetrated the cracks and crevices between the bits of matter used, and when that is done thf re is no danger of soil working in. In potting a plant, do not fill the pot with soil at first. Put in a suflScient quantity to cover the material in the bottom, and then set in your plant, and fill in about the roots with soil, work- ing it down among them well. If this is done, the pot will not be so filled when the process of potting is completed, that there is no space at the top for water. At least an inch, or an inch and a half, should be left between the top of the soil and the rim of the pot. In watering, you can pour on enough to thoroughly penetrate the soil by filling this space. If the pot is filled with soil most of the water applied runs over its edge, and the result is that very little moisture gets down among the roots where it is needed, unless there are frequent applications daily. More plants die from lack of moisture at the roots than from any other cause, 1 think. A slight appli- cation makes the surface of the soil look moist, and from this the owner gets an idea that it is moist all through. But an examination would show that the soil a short distance from the top is dry. Enough must be given to thoroughly penetrate all the soil in the pot in order to grow a plant well. An inch and a half space between the soil and rim of the pot will accommodate enough water to moisten the soil in the pot all through, as a general thing. Of course such a space is not necessary on small-sized pots, but small-sized "pots must be given more frequent attention than large -sized ones, because they dry out more rapidly, the quantity of soil in them being so much less that evaporation takes place very fast. SOIL FOR HOnSE-PLANTS, POTTING, ETC. 37 It is not necessary to use such largo pots as many seem to think absolutely necessary to the auccesstul cultivation of ordinary plants. I have found that the majority of plants gi-own in the sitting-room do not need pots moro than seven or eight inches across when fully developed, while the average plant is satisfied with a six- inch pot, if the soil is good. By the term " average plant," I mean Geraniums, Helio- tropes, and plants of that class of the size usually seen in the window-garden. Aa a gen- eral tbing most amateurs renew their plants yearly, consequently they never r^^quire a great amount of root room. Older plants should have larger pots, but most persons who have limited accommodations prefer to keep their plants to small sizes, so that they can have more of them. I think they would find larger plants, and fewer of tbein, more satisfactory. When plants are young and increasing in size rapidly, it is necessary to give them frequent shifts to pots of larger sizes than those in which they have been growing. In order to know when it is necessary to do this, the condition of the roots must be examined. This is easily done by inverting the pot across the left hand with the plant passing through between the fingers. Then give tlie edge of the pot a sharp tap against something solid, and the ball of earth in it will be loosened, and the entire mass will slip out readily without disturbing the roots of the plants in the least. If the roots of the plant have filled the mass of soil, and there is a network of tbem around its edge, it is safe to conclude that a shift is ad- visable. If only an occasional root shows itself, the plant does not require a larger pot just yet. Older plants get along very well with a yearly repotting. It is a good plan to remove the top of the soil in fall, if the plant has grown much during the summer, and put fresh earth in its place, aa considerable nutriment will be re- quired to take the plant through the flowering period in good condition. If some fresh soil is not given, or the plant is not repotted entirely in fall, I would advise the application of some reliable fertilizer at least once a week, after Sep- tember, if the plant ia growing actively. If not, give no fertilizer until such growth begins. Some persons use fertilizers when their plants are standing still, thiaking that something of this kind ia needed to start them into growth. This is wrong. No plant is in proper condition to make use of rich food unless it is in a state of development, and to give such food to a plant that ia taking a rest is to injure it. Bear this in mind always, and be governed accordingly, if you would grow your plants healthily. In repotting plants, if a portion of the roots are broken off or injured in any way, alwava be sure to remove a corresponding amount of top. The best time to repot plants from which winter flowers are desired is spring. This gives them a chance to grow during the season, and, as a general thing, when a plant is growing well it does not blossom much. After a develoc- ment of branches, flowering begins. When huda appear, give the fertilizer vou deci-^e upon, and assist ttie plant in the production of fine flowers. If repotting were done in fall there would be a likelihood of bringing about a growth of top rather than flowers, and because of this danger I advise repotting in spring. 38 the' PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Plant Enemies. If " ot^mal vigilance is the price of liberty," it is DO less so of bealthv plants. In order to have fine apecimena it is very necessary that they be watched carefully, and kept fr»'e from the various insects and other ent-mies that will b« pretty sure to attack them, if not given con- stant attention. One of the most common insect pesta with which the plaot-grower has to deal is the aphis, or green fly. The surest method of getting rid of this pest is that of fumigation. If you have a pmall, close room, put the plants in it, at some distance above the tioor, ana burn tobacco stems and leaves under them, by drop- ping them, after haviug molat^'nei them, on coals, which, for safety's sake, should be kept in an iron pot. The moi^jtened leaves will givf* off a dense smoke, which, if confin-^d long enough about the plants, will be quite sure to kill all the aphides. If you do not have such a room, a large dry- goods box can be fitted up tor fumigating pur- poses, which will answer very well. Tf the smoke 18 generated in a large room, a great deal more is required than will be necessary in a smaller space, and this smoke is vi^ry disagreeable to moat persons, and braves a strong stale pcent on everything with which it comes in contact. It will be necessary to air the room repeatedly in order to get rid of it. It is therefore advisable to have a room or box fitted up especially for fu- migating purposes. The smoke must be dense and strong in ord^r to be effective. I have seen some ladies scatter a small quantity of tobacco on a little bunch of coals in a basin, making about the same amount of smoke that a man gets from the ordinary pipe. This they would blow gingerly among their plants tor a minute or two, and the next day they would pronounce the fumigating plan a failure. Their way of applying it moat certainly was. There must be smoke enough to stupefy the insects at once, and it must bo confined about the plants long enough to kill the stupefied aphides, in order to make the plan effpctual. Unless you can fumigate your plants in this way, th'^re is but little benefit to be derived from the use of tobacco as an inaectide. It is aome- timf'8 ateepod in hot water, and the infusion ayringed over the plants, but this is a most dis agreeable thing to do because the tea stains evcrv thing with which it comes in contact, and it seldom puts the enemy to rout. Strong smoke will stupefy the pest so that it can be shaken from the plant, or, if confined about the plants, will surely kill it, and because of this certainty of results it is vastly preferable to any other method of using tobacco in fighting this enemy. Coarse stems and leaves, such as cigar-mak- ers have left after mannfacturing cisars, are much preferable to tobacco eold at the store, be- cause the latter is often drugged to such an ex- tent that it loses the peculiar quality which is neceseary in fluccesaful fumigation. r The red spider is quite sure to attack plants kept in a very warm room where the air is dry. This pest is one of the moat destructive one s with which I am familiar. It is so small that it can hardly be seen with the naked eye, and quite often its presence is doubted because it cannot be seen. But if you notice the leaves turning yellow and dropping off, and the under- side of tbom seems covered with a thin web, you may be satisfied that the spider is at work. On examination you will find little specks among the webbing, and these specks— which look more like grains of Cayenne pepper than anything else-are the insects which do so much damage to your plants. The < nly remedy for this pest that I know of is water. He wi.l net remain in a moist atmos- phere. In order to get rid of him you must provide yourself with a syringe which will throw a spray with considerable force. Then daily, or oltener, shower your plants all over. See that no part of them escapes wetting. Be par- ticularly careful to get at the underside of every leaf, for there is where be lurks. The thorrufih and often repeated application of water will surely drive him away, but it is often quite diffi- cult to use enough of it in the sitting-room to accomplish this purpose. It is a good plan, therefore, to fill a tuo with wat^r and immerse the plants in it. allowing them to remain some tim". This will drown the insect and effectually rid the plants of the enemy, and after this is done it la possible to keep it from obtaining another foothold on them by the liberal use of water daily, being careful, as I have said, to see that every portion of the plant is reached by the application. The mealy bug is a hard creature to fight, be- cause he gets down in the axil of the leaf, in every crack and crevice of the pot, and under the bark of rough-wcoded plants. But by the use of an emulsion of kerosene ho can bo routed. Prepare this emulsion according to the fjillow- ing formula : 5 parts kerosene, 1 part fir-tree oil, 20 parts water. Put these together in a watering-pot and agi- tate rapidly for a moment by putting the syringe into the mixture and drawing it up and expell- ing it with considerable force. The oils and water will unite readily. Apply the emnleion to every portion of the plant infested with the mealy bug. Scale is killed by this emulsion ; therefore its value in the greenhouse will be readily understood by those who have fought these two enemies unsuccessfully with other preparations. I am told that if 40 parta water are added to the oils, instead of 20, as ad- vised above, a preparation is secured which kills the aphis. For worms in the soil I use a preparation of lime water. Take a piece of fresh lime as large as a tea cup. Put it in a pailful of rain water. It will dissolve, and a white sediment will settle PLANT ENEMIES. 39 to tho bottom, leaving the water above as clear as if nothing had been added to it. Pour this off, and use it on the soil in your pot8, I have frequently advised this, but persons who have tried it have written to say that it amounted to nothing. On inquiry I have always found that their application of the lime-water was made in such homeopathic doses that it is not at all to be wondered at that they tailed to secure successful results. Instead of putting on enough water to thoroughly penetrate all the soil in the pot, they applied it by the spoonful. To accomplish anything, enough must be given to wet the entire mass of earth. No one need fear getting too strong a solution, as the water can take up only a certain amount of lime, therefore thpre is no danger in this direction. In almost all cases worms in the soil can be traced to the use of manure from the barnyard. I much prefer to use some fertilizer which will not brf>ed worms. There are preparations on the market which are equally as good as manure in bringing about the development of plants, and it is perfiictly safe to use if the directions ac- companying the packages are followed, and one has the satisfaction of knowing, when he applies it, that worms will not come from it. The fir-tree oil used in making the kerosene t^mulsion cannot be obtained at tho ordinary drug-store in many places. It may be neces- sary to send to some of the large plant-dealers who handle all kinds of florists' supplies for it. 40 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. The Care of House Plants. It may eeom to the person who has had but little experience in taking care of plants grown in the sitting-room or kitchen window, that it is the easiest thing in the world to take such care of plants that tbey will flourish satisfactorily. But such is not the case. While it is true that any one who loves plants can grow them well, it is also true that in order to do this they must go to work intelligently, and care for them scien- tifically, and to do this it is necessary that their requirements should bo fully understood, and certain general rules followed. Unless this is done, one's plants will prove failures. Therefore, in order to care for them properly, one must first know what needs doing, and the reason for it, and then act accordingly. While certain general rules can bo given, full instructions cannot be laid down which will ap- ply to all cases, because there are always con- ditions of difference which must be duly consid- ered. On this account one must use judgment, and modify the general rules to fit each indi- vidual case. It will be comparatively easy to do this when one has had a little experience with plants. One of the most important items is that of watering. Some persons apply water frequently, and in small quantities. In such cases,, as I have remarked in the preceding chapter, the result is often very disastrous, because there is not enough moiijture to penetrate through the entire mass of soil, and the consequence is that while the surface appears moist, the lower por- tion is dry. I would therefore discourage the " little and often " practice. Another practice is, to water freely and regularly, without any regard to the condition the soil is in. This is quite as bad a habit as the other, for very fre- quently the soil is sufficiently moist, and to add more water is to make it wet, and the frequent application of water thereafter will keep it in that condition. Few plants will grow in mud. The only safe rule to follow is this : Water your plants when the surface of the soil in the pot looks dry— and not till then, except in cases where you know more water suits the plant, as in the case of the Calla, which is really a semi-aquatic. But when you do water your plants, under the above rule, be sure to water inorouahly. That is, apply enough to make all the soil in the pot moist. About the only way to tell when enough has been given is to put on so much that a little will ran out at the bottom of the pot. In most cases this will show that all the soil is affected by the application. If the drainage is good, there will be no danger of overwatonug. Some plants will require watering daily, oapocially if in small pots. Others will not reqiiiro watering oftoner than every other day. Location, the heat of the room, and other influences act in the case, and all must be taken into considera- tion in order to understand the wants of your particular plants, which, very likely, will require a little different treatment from those of your neighbor's, because, as I have said, of the dif- ference in conditions which are pretty sure to exist. Some give warm watpr. Some give cold water. I amfrequpntly asked which is best. I take the water for my plants from a cistern just outside the greenhouse, and apply it alike to all plants, and I have never seen the tenderest injured by it. Well-water may sometimes be colder than cistern-water, but not generally is it so, I do not consider it at all necessary to go to the trouble of warming water for plants unless in exceptional cases, where the water is unusu- ally cold. Then I would advise letting it stand in the room long enough, before applying, to allow the chill to pass off. Some persons seem to have the idea that a saucer is provided with each pot for the purpose of holding water from which the soil in the pot is to soak up enough to meet the requirements of the plant. Such is not the case. This saucer is for the purpose of holding such water as runs out of the soil. Go into a greenhouse and you will find that saucers are not used there. They are useful only in rooms where something is re- quired to prevent surplus water from running on the floor or carpet. It is a good plan to stir the soil in the pota with a stick, or an old- fashioned fork. This pre- vents it from becoming crusted over, and allows air to get to the roots freely. It also puts it in a condition to take in water easily. One of the principal drawbacks to the success- ful cultivation of plants in the ordinary living- room is the high temperature which generally prevails there. You will find most rooms far too warm. The plants are forced into unhealthy growth. A temperatui-e of 7U degrees is quite high enough for most plants, and 65 degrees would undoubtedly be better, but the human occupants have become so accustomed to un- healthy degrees of heat that they would imagine themselves suffering from cold in a temperature below 70, and quite frequently you find it up to 80 or more. But few plants can stand this. Those that do so are never satisfactory. In addition to the high temperature, we have intense dryness of air. The moisture is all burned out of it. Plants must have some moist- ure in the air, in order to do well, as well as at the roota. Much can be done to counteract the influence of this unnatural dryness by keeping water in pans on the register or stove to evapo- rate steadily. In addition to this, the plants should be showered daily. I say showered, not sprinkled, I would recommend for this purpose a brass syringe which throws a fine spray with such force that all parts of the plants can be reached. Do not bo content -with a slight appli- cation of water to the foliage of the plant, but Eut on enough to cover it with moisture as if it ad just had a rain-bath. See that the under- Hide of the leaves are as wet as the upper side. Such a showering not only helps the plant to breathe mere freely, but it prevents the red spider from attacking it. It also keeps the leaves free from duet, thus adding vastly to THE CARE OF HOUSE PLANTS. 41 their appearance, for a plant coated over •with duet is never attractive, and it cannot be hoalthy, becauae plants breathe through pores in the leaves, and a coating of dust clogs these pores to such an exteutthattheair cannot get in in suf- ficient quantity to supply the needs of the plant. But do not shower your plants in summer when the sun shines upon them, because the hf'at is often intense enough to cause the leaves to blister from its effect on the moisture, which often collects and stands in drops. Wherever these drops stand on a leaf in strong sunshine, a black spot is generally left, or a blotch that looks as if hot water had been applied. It is a good plan to drop a shade between the plants and the light for a little time after showering them, if they stand in a sunny window. If show- ered at night this is, of course, unnecessary. Plants should be turned about in the window at least once a week to prevent their becoming drawn over and one-sided. They reach out toward the sunshine, and before one becomes aware of it, unless she watches them very closely, their branches have taken such a turn toward the glass that it is hard work to get them back into symmetrical shape without staking them, and in order to get the greatest amount of pleasure from a plant as few stakes as possible should be used. If care is taken to turn the plants fre- quently, it is an easy matter to keep them shapely. Give all aides the benefit of the light. Sometimes plants persist m sending out branches on one side while the other looks as bare aa if you had gone over it with a pruning- knife. What you must do in this case is to cut back the branches that it puts forth, and keep them from growing until it has started branches on the vacant places. This you can force almost any plant to do by persistent effort. If you want a plant to take on a tree-like form, keep it from sending out aide-branches until it IS two, three, or four feet high, as you may think best. Then cut off the end of it. In a short time it will send out branches. Some of these will be at the top, and eome below the top, but all except those nearest its extremity should be picked off" as soon as they start. Al- low several at and near the top to grow. When they have reached the length of four or five inches nip the end of ihem off. This induces them to branch, and in this way you soon have a compact little head for your tree formed. If you prefer a shrubby form for your plant, cut the main stalk back when it is about six or eight inches tail, and encourage the growth of several stalks instead of one, from the base of the plant. I prefer this plan to any other for such plants as the Chrysanthemum and plants of similar habit. Abutilons make pretty little trees, and take to that form readily. Many plants are inclined to grow in awkward shapes if left to themselves. This is particu- larly true of the Geranium. Left to take care of itself it often sends up one long stalk which will have a tuft of leaves at the top, and nothing more. But a little training will make a most shapely plant of any Geranium, if given at the right time, which is, while the plant is young. By nipping off the top as soon as the stalk begins to grow freely, you can induce it to send out several other stalks nea r the base, and if these are nipped in turn, you eventually get a plant with a dozen or more stalks, and these can be made to branch at any desired height, so that it is a comparatively easy matter to make a com- pact, bushy specimen of the plant which, left to itself, would have made itself as awkward as it IS possible for a plant to be. These busby Ge- raniums will have flowering points all over them —every little branch being such a point — while an untrained plant will generally not have more than four or five, if as many. From this it will be seen that it pays to give a plant proper treat- ment while young, if you want it to take on a graceful form, and put itself in a condition to afford a liberal quantity of flowers. Old plants can be cut back and made to throw out new branches, but they can never be made as shapely and symmetrical as young plants which receive training while they are develop- ing. Most persons crowd their windows to such an extent that some of the plants suffer from lack of sufficient light, while all are injured because of lack of room in which to fully develop them- selves. I would advise having fewer plants at the window, and these few finer sisecimens than those usually seen there. This can be done by allowing more room for each. Half a dozen fine plants will afford a great deal more pleas- ure ttian two or three times that number of or- dinary plants, and half a dozen plants of fair size are quite as many as a window of the aver^ age size will accommodate satisfactorily. 42 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. Bulbs for \A/'inter Blooming. No collection of flowers is considered com- plete nowadays if it do' s not include a varioty of bulbs so treated tbat they will come into bloom in mid-winter, when few other flowers can be depended on to furnish flowers. The amateur florist can succeed with bulbs, in the house, if she will be guided by certain rules which experience has proved to be good ones ; rules that it is imperatively necessary one should follow in order to insure suc.-ess. A gr^at many persons have an idea that about all tliey must "do to get tine flowers from bulbs, in the' house, in winter, is to put them in a pot of earth, give it a place in tbe window, and water it whenever they happen to think of it. These are the persons who " don't have any luck " with bulbs, and who tell all their friends that they aren't worth growing. The fact is, with proper and intelligent care, it is very easy to flower bulbs well, but without such care they are sure to fail. Wh^'n grown as they ought to be, few flowers give better satisfaction, and, as I have said, no collection is complete without some of them. It must be borne in mind that when we bring a bulb into bloom in winter, we are reversing the natural order of thingn, which is, that these bnlbs shall be dormant at that time. It is, therefore, an unnatural orocess, but in order to obtain as great a degree of success as possible, we must follow out the methods of Nature so far as we can understand and imitate them. If we plant a bulb in the garden in September or October, it will make oo visible growth of top that season. But if you were to dig it up any time before the closing in of winter, and exam- ine it closely, you would find that it had begun to make a root-growth. All the fall, after plant- ing, and during the winter, it is making active preparation for work in spring. As soon as the snow melts and the sun shines, it will send up a top, and the vigor of its growth at this season depends largely on the condition in which its roots are. If there is a good development of them, this growth will be strong and healthy. If the roots are not strong, the growth of the top will be proportionately weak. In potting bulba from which we desire winter flowers, it is necessary, as I have said, to imi- tate the processes of Nature, and therefore the bulbs must be put away in the dark, after being potted, to form roots before they are placed in conditions which will induce them to make a growth of top. If put in a light, warm place as soon as potted, roots and top would begin to grow at the same time, and as there would be no strong roots to nourish and support the top, the development of that portion of the plant would be weak, and if any flowers resulted they would be inferior. By potting the bulbs and putting them away in a cool, dark place until roots have formed wo imitate tbe conditions which prevail when we put them in the ground. It is quite important that the dark place in which we store them (Should be cool, for too warm a place induces a premature top-growth. Absence of light and a low temperature encourages the formation of roots, because that is natural. In planting bulbs in fall, we hide thorn away from the sun- shine, and the warmth which characterizus summer has gone by, and the soil in which we put them is cool, if not cold. Under such con- ditions, they form roots. Light and warmth are necessary to the formation and development of a vigorous, healthy top. Therefore, give the bulbs a chance to complete the formation of roots first, tben bring them under conditions which will encourage a development of leaves and flowers. In this way, and in no other, we can grow bulbs well in the house. I am told bv many who have been advised to follow this plan of growing bulbs for winter- flowering tbat it is a "whim." But there is no whim about it. It is, as I have said, simply following Nature's plan. Those who study into the matter will see that it is strictly in accord with that plan. Those who have planted bulbs in the ground in spring, will be sure to tell you that they never get good flowers from th>'m. The reason why tbey do not is, that thi^y plant them under conditions which induce growth of root and top at the same tim'^, precisely as is the case when we pot bulbs and put the pots containing them in the window, at once. There is a weak growth resulting in each instance, but never a healthy one, because we have interfered with the natural method, which is, tbat but one kind of work shall be done at a time. The first work to be done is the putting forth of roots, because they are necessary to the nourishment of leaves and flowers. The next stage is that of top-growth, which should be delayed until the completion of the first. When bulbs are planted in the ground in fall. Nature takes them in hand, and by her management of conditions she makes it easy for them to do such work as is necessary at that time, and no other. When we plant them in the house we must take the plant in hand, and regulate it as nearly as possible as Nature would. From what I have said above, it will be under- stood, by giving the matter a little study and thought, that the method of starting bulbs which is advised is strictly scientific in its nature, if I may be allowed this use of the term. In other words, that it is a strictly natural one, or, at any rate, is one in which the processes of Nature are imitated as closely as possible under the condi- tions which prevail. I have made this some- what elaborate explanation to convince the in- telligent and thoughtful reader that it is not the " whim " that some ignorant persons assert it to be. Grow bulbs after this plan, and then try a few after the plan of those who declare it is entirely unnecessarv to be to " all the trouble " of following the advice; given, and I know which plan you will be lik'ehy roots like thn Agapautbus. At intervals, during the year, ii. sends up a stalk afoot or more in height, bear- ing from six to a dozen blossoms of a soft orange with yellow throat, shaped like a Lily. Of the very easiest culture. An evergreen, therefore to bo kept growing all the time. Vallotta. A member of the Amaryllis family, bloomins; every year in August and September. Its flowers are of a very rich scarlet. Treat like Imantophyllum. Disturb the bulbs as little as possible. Cacti. This class of plants is well-adapted to culture in living rooms, as it likes a warm place, and does not suffi'r from dry air as many other plants do. The Pbyllocacti are among our most magnificent flowering plants. Their flowers are of the richest colors and striking form. The Epiphyllums are very free bloomers, and will grow under most unfavorable conditions. But it pays to give these plants good care. If one is unfamiliar wilh the Cactus family, I would advise her to send to A. Blanc, 314 'North Eleventh St., Philadelphia, Pa., for " Hints on Cacti"— a very valuable little book on the culture of this most interesting class of plants, which will bo sent free. The grotesque forms assumed by CHINESE PRIMROSE. Acbania. A constant-flowering plant, of habit similar to that of the Abutilon. Flowers scarlet. Never attacked by any insect. Not a free bloomer, yet never without a few flowors. One of the most reliable of all plants. Can be kept for years, and rei»ewed from time to time, by cut- ting back sharply. Cestrum. This is a member of the Jessamine family, of exceedingly easy culture. Grows rapidly in a rich loam. C. auranticum has tubular yellow flowers, borne in spikes. C. porquii is the night- blooming variety, having greenish-white flowers which emit a very rich, powerful odor after nightfall. Both varieties become good-sized Bbrube. many varieties gives them a sort of fascination for the student of plants, which soon develops into a genuine Cactus craze. In this class is found the Night-Blooming Cereus, and other celebrated varieties, of which we frequently read or hear mention made. The Chinese Primrose. This is one of the best winter-bloomers we have. It is too well known to require descrip- tion. The single and d 'uble white varieties have long been cultivated by plant-growers, al- most to the exclusion of the pink, red and darker sorts. The florists have lately taken this plant in hand, and some of the nf>w strains are won- derful improvements on old varieties, both in size and color of the flowers. Be sore to have half a dozen plants of this Primrose. Give a 56 THE PRACTICAL GUIDE TO FLORICULTUTiE. light, spongy soil, and pot high— that iw, have the crown of the plaut elevated above the sur- face of the soil well, so that water, when applied, will run away from the crown and toward the sides of the pot. If allowed to run about the crown, and stand there, decay often sets in, aud in a short time the plant is injured. I would advise getting young, strong plants each year in spring. Itnpatiens Sultani. This plant, sometimes called Zanzibar Balsam, is an ever-bloomer. It bears scares of flowers, daily, of a soft carmine, which contrasts well with the rich green foliage. It likes a good Its long fronds are sent up from the roots in great profusion. T:iis does well in the sitting- room, if kept moist at the roots. Otbanna. One of our verv best hanging plants. Flow- ers yellow. Fond of the sunshine. Sauseviera. A plant having long, thick foliage of green, curiously mottled with gray. Of the easiest pos- sible culture. Will grow in shady places where nothifjg else will. Fine for halls and vestibules. Capable of standing heat, dust, and dry air much deal of water and a light, spongy soil. Give a shady place. Avery bright, cheerful, attractive plant. Ferns. Some varieties of Fern oan be grown quite successfully in the house, if care is taken to give them proper soil, and it is kept moist at all times. Leaf-mold and sand suits them better than loam. Ptoris tremuia is a pretty variety. P. argenta is a variety having a strip of silvery whito down the center of the fronds, and is a charming plant. Adiantum cioietUnm is a delicately fronded sort that always attracts attention. There are many other varieties from which selection can be made, but I would not advise choosing tho delicate kinds, as they do not succeed in living-rooms. They must have a moist atmosphere. Nephrolepais cxaltaia is the Sword Fern, and is excellent for baskets. better than any of the Palms. A very desirable plant. Oxalis. Another good baaket-plant, also fond of sun- shine. Flowers pink, freely produced, and very sweet. Foliage uke that of" clover. Grown from tubers. Pltiniha^o. A free-flowering, shrubby plant, having flow- ers shaped like those of the Phlox, in loose clusters. Their color is a most delightful, soft blue— a quite unusual one among house plants. Of easy culture. Cut the branches back well after each period of blooming. New ones will soon be sent out, and those will produce new flowers. P. caiJen.iix is the blue variety. P. alba is whiiie. P. rosea has red flowers. P. capensis is the best sort. SOME OF THE BEST HOUSE PLANTS. 57 Oleander. , , . A favorite small tree or shrub. A great bloomer dm-ing the summer months. Its large clusters of rosy-carmitie flowers are almost as beautiful as Roses. Give this plant a hght, rich, sanrly soil, and plenty of water while grow- ing. and plenty of water. Given these, with consid- erable root-room, fine plants can be grown by any one. Small pots should be used at first. Shift the plants as the pots become filled with roots. From three inch pots, for the young plants, to ten anfl twelve inch pots for large sanrlv soil, ana pieniyui wdbtji wmic piuvr- pia,uuo, ^.^ u-^^ "^^ - ..,-.., v. .„^„ ^^.^ — ---o- Cut back from time to time, to make it plants, the change being made m three or four CHRYSANTHEirOM. bushy and compact. Can be wintered in the cellar, where it should be kept pretty dry. Large specimens are very beautiful when in bloom. The Cbrysantbemnm. No plant is more popular to- day than the Chrysanthemum. And this is not to be won- dered at, because no plant blooms with greater profusion, or is easier to succeed with. The secret of successful culture of the Chrys- anthemum is rich soil— it can hardly be too rich, shifts, is about right. Let the soil be strong, rich, and mellow. Water daily, and in liberal quantities. Make it a point to never let the plants get dry at the roots. If they do, they will be checked, and from this check they will never recover fully. . There are so many fine varieties that it woulcl be useless to attempt to make a choice here. Consult the catalogues, and select such colors, from each class, as suit you best. I think tho Chinese varieties give the best satisfaction. 58 THE PB ACTIO AL GUIDE TO FLORICULTURE. After blooming, the tops can be cut off, and the pots set away in the cellar. Give no water during winter, unless the soil is in danger of getting dust-dry. In spring, bring up the pots, and water well. lu a short time sprouts will be sent up all over the surface of the soil. Cut these apart in such a manner as to retain a piece of root with each, and put them off into small pots. Then proceed as advised above. I shall not extend this list. Those who suc- ceed with the kinds named can add to their collections by selecting from the catalogues. Grow these well, and jou will be able to under- take the cultivation of others requiting more careful treatment. But contiue yourself to this list until you have acquired the experience which justifies you in " branching out." I have not included the Rose, because I find it almost impossible to grow it well under such conditions as generally prevail in ordinary liv- ing-rooms. No pla^it is more difficult to grow well, and unless one can grow a plant well it is better not to attempt its cultivation. If one cares to experiment with Roses, I would adviso Queen's Scarlet, Agripijiua, crimson, and Her- mosa, bright pink, yuccess will come with these varieties, if any. PLANTS FOR DECORATIVE PURPOSES. &3 Plants for Decorative Purposes. So prevalent has the use of Palms, Ficuses an^l other plants of similar character become, at recHptions, parties ol ail kinds, and, in fact, for daily home-life decoration of the ball and parlor, that a demand is growing for a better and more practical knowledge of what plants will succeed under such conditions as usually prevail in the rooms m which they are to be used, also the proper care to give them to keep them in health. Perhaps the most popular plants for decora- tive purposes are the Palms, because of their peculiar and striking foliage ; also because they are plants that stand a good deal of neglect without immediately showing the result of it. One fine specimen of the Palm family will do more to produce a fine effect in the parlor or hall than a dozen ordinary plants. The half- dozen ordinary plants will be passed without notice, Avhile the fine Palm will always attract attention because of its dignity, whicli is bound to assort itself under all conditions. There are many varieties of the Palm in culti- vation among florists, but there are but few sorts adapted to general decorative purposes. Latania Borhonica is one of the " stand-bys." It is not a tall grower, but it is useful for promi- nent places where tall plants would not answer, as before a mirror, or at the base of a piece of statuary. Its leaves are broad. Their edges are split into segments. In color it ia a rich dark green. This variety stands the dry air of the living room better than any other with which I am familiar. It is one of the plants that im- prove with age. Phoenix reclinata is a variety quite unlike the one just described in habit. Its leaves are long and pinnatitied. They are thrown out in all directions from the crown of the plant, and as they remain in gooi condition a long time, an old plant will olten have twenty-five or thirty at a time, and the effect is that of a fountain of fol- iage. Of easy cultivation. Soforthia elegans is of most graceful habit, having long and beautifully arched leaves. Nothing can be finer for the center of a group than a fine specimen of this variety. It is not so easily grown as the two sorts described. It must be given perfect drainage, and be kept entirely free from scale, in order to remain in health. If ovei'-watpred, you soon see the effects of it by the tips of the leaves turning brown. Chaperops excelsa is another good kind for general cultivation. It is 8omethit}glike Latania Borhonica in habit, but has leaves still more deeply split. Areca lutescens is one of the most, beautiful varieties in cultivation. Indeed, if I were to select bat one for general usf>, I think it would be this. Its foliage has a plum°-like form that is extremely graceful, and the habit of the plant is very neat. Cocos Wedeliana is the daintiest of all Palma in general appearance. Its leaves are almost as delicate as those of some varieties of F^rn. A small plant is a charming ornament for the table at a dinner party. It must have the best of drainage, be showered daily, and kppt per- fectly free from all insects if you would succeed with it. Washingtonia rdbusta. This is a variety from southern California. It is of quite rapid growth, and on this account will bettor suit many ama- teur florists who are impatient of results. This kind is very fine for use on porches, verandas, and in the garden m summer. The roots of nearly all varieties of the Palm have an inclination to run down rather than spread out. This being the case, deep pots are much better suited to their needs than shallow ones. While most varieties are fond of water, they do not want so much of it that the soil becomes wet, like mud. Provide drainage if you want your plants to do well. That given, there will be very little danger of over-watering. A good soil for Palms is composed of loam and turfy matter, with some sand mixed in. Give them a partially shadpd location at all times, and be sure to keep them out of the hot blaze of the summer sun if you want them to retain their rich green color. Showering is very important. In applying water to the foliage, do it thoroughly. See that water reaches every part of them. If this is always done, you will have them always clean, therefore ready for use in the parlor at any mo- ment. The red spider will not attack them if they are showered daily and thoroughly, and a stream of water thrown against them forcibly will dislodge the mealy bug, and keep him frohi getting established on them. Scale often at- tacks them. In order to get rid of this pest, you will have to scrub the stalks and leaves with a stiff brush, dipped in soapsuds. An application of the emulsion of kerosene, advised in another chapter, will put this pest to rout. Ficus elastica, better known as Rubber Plant, is admirably adapted for use in rooms where the air is dry, and the thermometer gets away up among the eighties, because of the thick, re- sistant texture of its foliage. Its leaves are gen- erally ten or twelve inches in length, four or five in width, and very thick. They are very per- sistent, if the plant is properly cared for, and a well-developed specimen ought to have foliage all along its branches. If neglected, they fall oflf, and none ever come to take their places. A plant without foliage along its branches is not particularly pleasing, therefore it is well to do what can he done to prevent loss of foliage. It is generally too little water, too dry an air, and too hot a room, or too small a pot that causes the leaves to drop. See that the soil is always moist, and never allow the pot to become crowded with roots. Any good soil seems to suit it. Wash CO THE PRACTICAL GUIBIS TO FLOBICVLTURE. the leavea at loast once a week to koeiJ them clean and prevent insects from getting a foot- hold. Grevillea robusla is quite unlike any other plant used for general decorative purposes. Its foliage is so finely cut that it is often mistaken for some variety of Fern. It grows to be quite a tree, and on tbis account it is very highly prized for use in rooms where a tall specimen is wanted. It is quite a rapid grower. Young specimeus are as valuable as older plants, because they are always graceful and symmetrical in form, and they can be used as dinner-table decora- tions. A rather light, rich soil suits this plant. It is very tractable, and can be trained in any form desirt>d, as it branches freely. Give good drain- age, water freely, and shower daily. Aucuba Japobica. This plant is generally known as the Gold Dust Plant, because of its peculiar variegation. The leaves are quite large, of thick and heavy texture, and a glossy, dark green in color, and seem to be covered with a shower of yellow particles, which are nothing but a variegation of yellow, so finely aad evenly distributed that they simulate a powdoring of gold. This plant is excellent for use among larger ones. Euonymus variegata is a plant having beauti- ful foliage of richest green, edged, blotched, and uniquely marked with bright yoUow. It grows in the form of a tree with but little training, and is always useful. Its bright yellow is a good sub- stitute" for flowers. One such plant, among others having plain green foliage, lights up the collection wonderfully, and enhances the b-auty of all of them by the contrast of color it afl:'ords. This, as well as the Aucuba, likes a somewhat heavy soil of loam. Water well and shift to larger pots as the roots fill the old ones. Shower well to keep down the red spider, and if scale or mealy bug attacks them, apply kerosene emul- sion. Araucaria is a plant seldom seen in home collections. It is sometimes called Moreton Bay Pine. It is an evergreen, having foliage something hke that of our native Hemlock, though hardly as flat, and not as evenly dis- posed on each side the branch. It grows very symmetrically without training. A fine, large specimen is a magnificent ornament to any room. Its gracefully arched branches, thickly set with leaves, its rich, dark color, and its peculiar appearance, make it noticeable wher- ever seen. Keep it out of doors in a shady place during the summer. Aspidistra is an excellent plant for " filling in." By that, I mean that it has the habit of growth which adapts it to use among other and taller plants. Its foliage is about a foot and a half long, Bont up directly from the roots, oa stalks perhaps six inches long. The surface of the soil soon becomes covered. As the foliage spreads out above the pot, a specimen soon produces a massive, "low-down" ef- fect, which makes this plant a most useful addi- ti'in to the list of plants suitable for room deco- ration. The leaves are thick in texture, dark in color, and very lasting. A. hirida variegata is a variety having foliage broadly striped with white. S.^me leaves will be half white, half green; others will have several stripes of white on a green ground. This plant is of the easiest pos- sible cultivation. Give it a soil of loam and leaf- mold or spongy matter from old sods, a shady place, and plenty of water at its roots and over- head, and it asks no more. I know of no plant that requires less care. I have never known it to be attacked by any insect. It is always healthy. It is always in presentable condition. The old English Ivy is not used in the decora- tion of rooms as much as it ought to be. Be- cause of its habit of growth it can bo used with telling effect in situations where other plants are useless. Train some of the long branches about the arch of a doorway, instead of thin- foliaged Asparagus or Smilax generally used there, and notice what a dignity it gives the place. Let it run up the side of the mantel and mass itself over it, with its branches falling carelessly at the other side, and note-the dilier- encc between it and most vines used for room decoration. Smilax and Asparagus answer very well for table decoration, but lor place.s where a more strong and massive eflect is desired, the Ivy is much more suitable. Give it a soil of loam and sand, well drained. If the soil becomes worn out, add some bone- dust to it. A very large pot is not needed. This plant is quite subject to attacks of scale. In case this pest gets established on it, apply kerosene emulsion. But prevent his getting a foothold by frequent showerings and washings of the plant. In applying the emulsion, the best method is to coil the vines in a tub and then pour a large quantity of the emulsion over them. In this way you are sure that every portion of them is reached. The Ivy does bettor in a shady place whore no direct light comes than any other plant I know anything of. Especial care should be taken to keep this plant in a healthy condition. If it suffers from lack of nutriment, from too littlfi water, or from attacks of insects, it di"ops its leaves often, and when the vines are naked a great portion of their length, the beauty of the plaut is sadly marred. When this takes place, I shift the plants to larger pots or tubs, and coil the naked jjortiou of the branches about the plant, just below the surface of the soil. Here they throw out roots and the plant goes on grow- ing as if aothiug had happened. % LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DOOmnE^Bl