T X .13 Book .T& 'i'N • HSnOYUAS SU3MVH soua ouoiAvo i NUTS AND THEIR USES AS EOOl). r.y M. E. JAFFA. Aaslxidnl /V(;^•.s^s■()(• (if Xulritioii, I'ldvirsili/ of ( 'alfoniiii. [Reprint fkcim Ykakhoi;i'aktment of Ai:kici'lti.'rk for lilOt!.] 4880—07 WASHINGTON : (iO»EHrn*E^T PRINTING OFFICE : 1907 CONTENTS. ,0^ V' Iiitro(Uii-ti(jn 295 De.si-rijitioii i)t' nut.-' 296 Th(' riavor of nuts 29S Composition of nuts 298 Digestibility of nuts 301 Plate of nuts in the diet 1 303 Nut butters 304 Nut pastes anil luit jireserves 305 Nut Hours and meals 306 Xnt candies 307 Nut coffees 308 Green mits 308 Nut oils and oil-cake meals 309 Pecuniary ec momy of nuts 309 Handliuir and marketing; nuts 311 Suniuiarv 312 ILLUSTRATIONS. ri.ATK. Tncp. Plate XV. Fij:. 1. —California Indians imundin;; acorn iiu-al fur fodd. Fig. 2. — Califnrnia Indian leaching acorns fur food 306 TEXT EIOIISE. Fk;. 8. I'lrccntau'c ciiMipnsitiDn nl an oily nut ( walnut i and a starcliy mil ( cliesi nut ) 300 SEP ^8 1907 •■'. : U. vt U. M IS AM) THEIR T SES AS FOOD. ' Hy M. E. Jama, As.iistant I'mfiasi'i- of XiilriHo)i. I'liinrxily of (iilifoniiii. IN'I'KODUCTION. Tlic constantly increusini; consumption of nuts tlirouijliout (lie United States augurs well for a better appreciation of their food value. The time when nuts were considered merely as a luxury, or as sometiiing to be eaten out of iiand at odd times, is rapidly ])assini; away. In earlier days the native hickories, l)utternuts, walnuts, chest- nuts, and many other nuts found in the United States were to be liad in country regions for the gathering and wer(> of no commercial inij)or- tance. On the other hand, the English wahuits (to give tiiem their most connnon name), almonds, cocoanuts, elc, l)rought from other countries, were relatively expensive luxuries. Conditions have mate- rially changed and our principal native nuts are now staple market conunodities and bring good j)rices. At the same time, owing (o changes in market conditions, the jirice of the imported nuts has drop])ed so that they are well within the reach of the majority. Some nuts, like the native hazelnut and beechnut, have i)ractically no conmercial value and, though palatable, are almost never offered for sale, doubtless because they are so small and to 22."i,000,()00 |)ounds. The total (piantity of home-grown nuts, including both native anther parts of southern Europe, where there are a luunber of nut-yielding jiines. The small, rather pointed white nuts NfTS AXD THEIll USES AS FOOD. 207 are usually marketod siielled, hut as (hoywnnv are cuA-ertMl willi a more or less hard, wnody shell. The ])istaehe iiu( (now i^'ruwii in ('ahf(irnia) has long l)een used and is ])rized hy eonfectioners for its delicate flavor and attractive green color, yet it is by no means common. The nuts are small, not imlike a liean in size and shape, tliougli more pointed, and l)efore marketing are I'reed from the ptuls in which they grow. The indiAidual nuts are covered with a gray or ]iur]dish skin, and are blanched liefore they are useil. The so-called lichi luit, which is really a dried fruit .surrounded l)y a nut-like .sliell and not unlike a raisin in flavor, is a favorite in China and lias ])econie (|uite common in this country. The ginkgo nut, the fruit of an ornamental tree (|uile widely grown in the United States and .sometimes called the uiaideidiair tree from the shape of the leaves, and which fruits abundantly in some regions, is seldom eaten except by the Chinese, who gather it whenever possible. The small, roundish, oval, thin-shelled luit is siu-rounded l)y a very acrid, l^ad-smelling pulp, the whole fruit being not unlike a gi'cen damson plum in size and a]>i>earance. In Cliina, Korea, and other parts of the Orient this mit is nuich used as a food, and, so far as can he learned, is always cooked in some w.iy. ''' Roasted like a, ])e;inut. il is palatable. The ginkgo nuts are on sale in the Chinese sho])s in San Fi'ancisco and (h)ubtless in otiier cities, and were studied at the Cali- fornia experiment station some years ago, togethiM' with other Chinese toods. 'The water chestnut, or horn chestnut ( 7V(/y«; hisiiiiiosa), an aijuatic ])lant, prinluces a seeil or "nut" which somewhat resembles two curved horns united in one, the kei'ucd of which is largely used as a food by the inhabitants of Asiatic countries. This so-c'alled mit is also on sale in the United States, but chiefly in Chin(>se shops. Anlant (Ehorliaris fiilMrasa) is also known as the water chestnut , but in this case it is the corm or bulb that is eaten. It is not unlike a chestnut in shape, and has a tough, brown skin. This is grown in Asia, l)ut is im])orte(l by the Chinese in this coimtry. A three-cornered pointed nut or seed, the ]»if of tlie Chinese olive {(Aniarhiin sp.), is also on sal(> at Chinese sho]>s in the United States. The kernels are oily but jialatable, and are used in Java for making a nut milk much thoughl of for infant feeding. The chufa, nut grass, or earth almond is a small tuberous root of a .sinlgelike plant and ])erhaps should lie classed with the vegetables rather than with nuts. It is not common, though sometimes eaten. From time to time new luits make their ajiiiearaiice on the market as some nut prizeil locally becomes known to the trade. A nut which seems to be growing in ])opularity, though still uncommon, is the Pai- adise nut of South America, which resembles a Brazil nut in ajipear- ance anil flavor. Still less conmion is the South African cream nut, 298 YEARBOOK OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGKK'ULTURE. thouiili it is sometimes shipped to this country. The clioicest member of tlie Brazil-nut group is the true "butternut" of the Tropics, which is very seldom found outside that i-egion. Its flavor is verj' delicate and delicious, but it does not keej) well; and even if it would bear ship- ment successfully, the available supply is at present very small. The cashew nut of tro])ical regions, wliich many consider one of the most delicious nuts grown, has long been known, but has never become com- mon. It is sold to some extent and brings high prices. Tliis nut is roastetl before it is eaten, as the raw nut contains poisonous properties which are readily ilestroyed by heat. The oval, flat, and rather large seeds of a luimpkin-like fruit, tabe- l)uia (Telfairia pedata), from Zanzibar, which lias been grown in a limited way at the Porto Rico exjteriment station, are roastetl and eaten like a nut. The flavor is oily ami fairly palatable. This sug- gests the use in Russia of the raw sunflower seed, which is ricii in oil and not unlike some of the common nuts in composition. Theseetls arc eaten out of hand at all times and by all classes. THE FLAVOR OF Nl'TS. The flavor of nuts is very largely de]H>ndent iqx^n the oils wliich the}' contain, though in some there are also specific llavorijig bodies. The nut oils readily become rancid, the very tli.sagreeable flavor of spoiled nuts being due to this property. Some nuts, for instance, the chestnut, have a starchy flavor as well as a "nutty" taste. The small native nut is much more highly flavored than the large Italian or the Japanese chestnut. The almond posses.ses the cyanic-acid flavor, which is characteristic of peach pits, plum pits, etc., and this might be expected wheTi it is rememljered that the almond is the dried j)it of an inedible fruit somewhat resembling the peach in appearance and closely relatstl to it botanically. Most almonds are mild navt)i-ed, though in the so-called liitter ajmonds the cyanic-aciil yiekling glucosid is more abundant. In raw peanuts there is a tleciiled flavor resem- bling that of the closely related beans and peas, and to some persons this is not im|)alatal)le. In the roasted peanut, which most of us prefer to the raw, the flavor is largely dependent uj^on the browned oils and stai'ches or other carliohydrates. COMPOSITION OF NUTS. The composition of nuts and nut products has been studied at a nundjer of the agricidtural experiment stations, notably California, Maine, and Iowa, and the table on the following page summarizes the residts of this work, the American data being su])])lemented in a number of cases by the results of European analyses. For purposes of comparis(jn several other common food materials are also included. NUTS AN'D THEIR USES AS FOOD. 299 Aucmiie composition of nats and mil prodii.rlx. Kin.l of food. /'( 34. 6B ;a. 08 Nuts jind nut products; Acorn , $resh 17. 80 Alinonil 47.00 Beechnut ; 311. MO Brazil nut 49.3.5 Buttprnut Sfi. 40 Candle nut Che.stnut, frostl l.i. 70 Chestnut, dry ' 23.40 1 Torn chestnut nr water chest- nut , Chufa (earth ahuond) Cocoanut , Filbert Ginlcgo nut (seeds) Hickory nut tj2. 20 Liclii nut 41. 00 Paradise nut 4.5. 70 Peanut 27.04 Pecan ; .50. 10 Pignolia (shelled) Pistachio Walnut .Vhnond Initter Almond paste Peainit hutter Malted nuts Cocoanut candy Peanut canily Chestnuts, preserved (niarron gla.c6), air dried Walnuts preserved in sirup, air dried Cocoanut milk Cocoanut. desiccated Peanut coffee made from en- tire kernel Chestnut flour Cocoanut flour Hazelnut meal Other foods for comparison: Meat, round steak Cheese, cluxldar Eggs, boiled Wheat flour, high gradi^ White bread Beans, dried Potatoes Apples Raisins 58.80 Edible portion. 20. 00 25.00 10.00 34.7 4.9 li. I) 4.7 4.5 .5.9 43.4 ti. 1 10. (1 2. 2 1.3.0 .5.4 47.3 ,3.7 10. 4 2.3 7.4 .3.4 0. 2 4.2 3-. 4 2. 2 24.2 2.1 2.0 3.9 ,3.0 IS. 2 10.9 92.7 3. .5 Pro- tein. Fat. 4,4 21.4 21.8 17.4 27. 9 21.4 ti. 4 10.7 10.9 3. 5 fi. 6 10.5 5.9 1.5. 4 2.9 22.2 29.8 12.1 3.3.9 22.0 18.2 21.7 13.1 29. 3 23. r 2.4 10.3 1.3 1.3.6 .4 0.3 4.7 .54.4 49.9 05. 01.2 01.7 ti.O 7.8 5.1 27.9 7.8 4.6 14.4 20.6 2. 7 11.7 05. 5 19.8 27.4 27.7 ': 43.; 70.: 48.: .54.; 00. ■ 61.; 20.0 1.5 57. 4 ,50. 1 3.4 2.1 lis. 13.0 30.8 10.7 Carbohy- drates.' ^ugar, \ starch, etc. Prr ,/. 50. 4 1.3.8 4. 9 41 3 70. 1 73 8 50 2 13 7 Crude fiber. Pent. 4.2 1.5 2.9 1.4 10. 5 8.9 ' I 11.4 78.0 10.2 14.' 8.. 2.4 3.7 1.4 17.1 43,9 48. 4.0 31.5 12. 3 I 2. 4 SO. 8 45. 9 I 10. 1 17. S 12. 11.4 1.0 74.8 35. 3 9.2 1.3 .52. 12. 22. 5 1.8 .55. 2 7S.3 2. 2 .1 IK.O 84.0 .4 .5 1.3.0 14.6 2.6 3.3 73.0 Pir el. 1.0 Fuel value per p»3und. CalorU 1.2 2.5 2,895 3.7 2,740 3.3 3,120 3.0 3,370 3.3 3,020 1.4 1,140 2.4 1,S40 2,0 2.0 1.0 2.4 , 2.0 2.1 1.9 2 7 •> o Mil 3.8 3.1 1.7 3. 1.0 .5.0 3.4 li. 9 1.1 4.0 1.1 3. 5 1.0 .3 3.4 1,.540 2,4:!5 2.805 3,100 941) 3,345 1,510 3,3,S(I 2,010 3,300 2,710 3,2,50 3,075 3,340 1,9IK) 2,825 2, UK) 2,0(H> 2.115 1,,530 2,780 155 3,125 2,805 1.7SII 1,4SII 3, 1,H5 9,50 2,145 CSfl 1,0.50 1,215 ),i;o5 3.S5 290 300 YEARBOOK OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. Refuse, mostly sh(>ll, constitutes a considerable pro])ortion of the nuts as purchased, varyino; irreatly with the different kinds. With fresh chestnuts the jjroportion is nearly 16 per cent, ])eanuts 27 per • •cut, almonds 47 per cent, and butternuts 86 per cent. The edilile ])()rtion of nuts, with few exceptions, is very concentrated food, containing' little water and much fat. In general, nuts are also rich in protein. These ranking highest in this nutrient, the pignolia, )i variety of pinenut imported from .Spain, with 33.9 per cent, the pea- luit witli 29. S ]3er cent, and the butternut with 27.9 per cent protein, .surpass most or-'' FAT 6H% — STARCHSUCAR.CTC I3,S°>C^ CRUDE F/BER Z6 %- ^ ASH l-ffo-^ 5 9 Jo WATER ~ 107 % RROTEIN - 7.O04 FAT -TS % STARCH. SUCARETC ^21% CRUDE FIBER ^22% ASH WALNUT. CHESTNUT. Fir;, s.— PTcentag" mniposi tioii of -.m oily imt (walnut) and a stiirdiy nut (chostnul ). Of the nuts here included I lie richest in fat is the pecan, with an average of 70.7 per cent, but 7 other varieties — the Brazil nut, butter- nut, candlenut, filbert, hickory nut, pinenut, and walnut — contain upward of 60 per cent. The almond, cocoanut, and pistachio yield between 50 and 60 per cent of this nutrient. The beechnut, peanut, and pignolia contain about .'iO per cent. In other words, in 13 of the varieties of nuts appearing in tlie foregoing table, half or more of the edible portion is fat or oil. Only a few of the conunonly used nuts yiekl any notable amounts of total carbohydrate matter, t lie dry chestnut, with 73 per cent, rating liighest. Beechnuts, ])inenuts, and peanuts have about 18 per cent. The quantity of starch found is, with some exceptions, c[uite small, ranging from 3 ]5er cent in the l)eechnut to 27 per cent in the chestnut. Figure 8 shows in diagrammatic form the percentage composition of an oily nut, the walnut, and a starchy nut, the chestnut. Nuts are, comparatively speaking, well supplied with mineral mat- ter, this constituent in the majority of nuts exceeding 2 per cent. The ash of the walnut, almond, etc., is rich in phospluiric acid, and NUTS AND THEIR I^SES AS? FOOD. 301 in this rcpjard compares favorably with that cr cent; crude fiber, 49 per cent, with 8S ])er cent of the energy available. The latter coefficients agree very closely with those in the average of nearly 500 experiments \nth difl'erent sorts of mixed tliet, namely: Protein, 92 jjercent; fat, 95 per cent; and carbohydrates, 97 percent. In view of tliese facts regarding compo- sition and digestibilitjr of their diet, it is evident that nuts must be regarded as the main source of protein for the fruitarians. The studies with fruitarians have all indicated that nut protein is fairly well assimi- latetl ; and that this is true with the average healthy person is well illus- trated by an experiment with a university student, who, though en- tirely unaccustomed to such fare, gradually changed from an ordinary mixed diet to one of fruit and nuts, which he followed for a time with- out apparent loss of health or strength. 4S80— 07 2 302 YEARBOOK OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICVLTURE. It is somewhat difficult to arrive at definite conclusions regarding the actual percentage of nut protein digested or assimilated. The experimental data obtained at the California station show a range of 75 to 82 per cent digestible protein when fruit and nuts were eaten together, but the figure for nut protein is doubtless liigher. These coefficients were in all probability influenced by the fruit pro- tein, wliich has been found to be less digestible than the nut protein. The digestibility of protein in 28 experiments with mixed diets, to which were added fruit and nuts, averaged 90 per cent. As fruits, with the exception of the avocado and olive, jieM only a small amount of fat, the fat which is contained in a fruitarian diet must be very largely obtained from the nuts. The average coefficients of digestibility for this nutrient in 30 experiments with men on a diet of fruit and nuts was 86 per cent, and in the 28 experiments just re- ferred to it was 85 per cent. These figures are about 10 per cent lower than the average coefficient for digestibility of fats in the ordi- nary mixed diet. The digestibilitA^ of the carbohydrates in nuts, so far as the available data show, is about ecjual to that of the same ingredients in other foods. So far as can be ascertained no experiments have been made on the ease or rapidity of digestion of nuts. In the absence of such data it is fair to assume that within reasonable limits the finer the state of subdivision of the food material, the easier, the more rapid, and per- haps the more nearlj^ complete will be the digestion or assimilation, presupi^osing, of course, that the nuts are not eaten in addition to a hearty meal. Too much stress can not be laid on the necessity of thorough mastication of nuts. This is emphasized by the residts ob- tained with one of the subjects at the California station, who ate largely of nuts but did not properly masticate his food. The coeffi- cients of digestibility of the food were far lower than for other sub- jects who chewed their fooil thoroughly. The expeiiments with fruit and nut diets in general indicate that nut protein is as easily, even if not quite so completely, digested as protein from bread and milk. The present discussion refers only to the nuts included in the studies at the California station, viz, the almond, Brazil nut, cocoanut, peanut, pecan, pignolia, and walnut. It is believed that these are typical of the ordinary edible nuts, but further digestion experiments are much needed for the purpose of testing some other nuts. As regards the work of other investigators, both ^lemmo" and Merrill '' report experiments with cooked chestnuts. Memmo's sub- ject was a farm lal)orer, 53 years old, working eight hours a day. The experiment lasted four days. During the first two the food con- sisted exclusively of chestnut products. This was modified during a Ann. Inst. Ig. Spcr. Vniv. Roma, n. s., 4 (1894), p. 263. 6 Maine Sta. Bui. 131, p. 14G. NUTS AXD THEIK USES AS FOOD. 303 the last two days by the addition of herrinii; and cheese. In this experiment 75 per cent of the protein, 87 i)er cent of tiie fat, 97 per cent of the total carbohytlrates, and S3 ])er cent of the ash were assim- ilated. The last figure is high ; the others correspontl to those reported for the California experiments with a fruit and nut diet. The subjects of Merrill's experiments were two men aged 23 and 3-1 years, respectivel}-. A mixed diet was used. Each sidiject consum(>d daily 300 grams of cooked chestnut flour, whicli furnislied about 20 per cent of the proteids, 50 per cent lace in the diet is a matter for more careful consideration than is the case with many of our ordinary food materials. It must not be forgotten that a certain bulkine.ss of the diet is conducive tt) its normal assimilation, anil that too concentrated nutriment is often the cause of iligestive disturb- ances. It might be expected, then, that nuts ct)uld be most advan- tageously used in connection with more bulky foods, such as fruits, vegetal)lcs, breads, crackers, etc. Most rationally used, they siiould constitute an integral part of the menu rather than supplement an already abundant meal. Since nuts are .so concentrated, eating a considerable quantity out of hand at odd times will mean an over- supply of fooil if a corresponding reduction is not maile in other foods. The distress sometimes experienced when nuts are eaten is undoubt- edly often tlue to improper mastication or to overindulgence. Tlie investigations made at the California station indicate clearly that considerable ciuantities of nuts properly eaten do not cause distress. There is a popular belief that a little salt with nuts ]>revents the diges- tive disturbance resulting from eating them. To most persons, salt undoubtedly adds to the palatability of the nuts, but no investiga- tions have been found on record which demonstrate any actual improvement in tiie digestibility of nuts due to salt. a Jour. Biol., 2 (ler of sorts on the market. The ])roeess of making nut butters has lieen fre- quently described in journals and cookery books. Either the raw or the roasted peanut may b(> used for making j^canut butter, but the roasted nut is the more satisfactory. The kernels should be freed from chalT and reduced to a paste in the grinding mill. Freshly roasted nuts are necessary, as tlmsc which have stood for a ch^y or so after roasting lo.se in crispness, do not grind well, and tend to chig the mill. Any sort of nut may be used, but experience has shown that it is more tliilicult to mak(> butters from the almond ur Brazil nut tiian from the. peanut. Blanching these nuts rec[uires cDusid- erabl}' more time and labor than is needed to free the peanut from the skin which covers the kernel, and they are also more difllcult to grind. N'ut butters will keep well if sealed in glass or earthernware jars. Tin cans also may be used, Init are not (piite as desirable. As might ])e exjiected, nut Ixitters do not dill'er materially in composi- tion from the nuts from wliich they are ground. (See table, p. 299.) Th(> nut butters just mentioned are entirely different from cocoanut butter and from cocoa butter, which are expressed and purified fats. These "butters" are of consideralde commercial imi)ortance and are used for culinaiy purposes, though ]>erhaps they are more commonly used in other ways. NUT TASTES AXl> NUT PRESEUVES. Pastes which are used by confectioners for candy making and in other ways are made from nuts with the addition of sugar. Some- times water and starch are added, but such admixtures are inferior to the nut and sugar pastes. The most common material of tliis 306 YEARBOOK OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. sort is the aliiioiul paste, which is manufactured in large quantities in the United States and is also imported. It is used for making cakes, candies, etc., the highly ornamented cakes called "marzipan," so popular with the Germans, being one of tire very well-known almond-paste confections. Chestnuts preserved or candied in sirup and then dried, the niar- ron glace of the confectioners, are esteemed a tlelicacy and are eaten alone or are used in confectionery, etc. Thus prepared, they are a common commercial article. Much less common are the English walnut meats in sirup, which are manufactured in Europe and exported to this country in limited ([uantities. In tlie Tropics a thick, sweet preserve is made from cocoanut and sugar which is much liked locally, though those who are not familiar with it con- sider it very sweet and insipid. As the data in the table on page 299 show, these ]>roducts are ricli in carliohy(h-ates, owing to the added sugar. NUT FI.OLKS AND .MEALS. Among nut |)rodiicts may be mentioned nut Ihiurs and meals. Some of these are used in large (|uantities and are made on a com- mercial scale, while otliers, perhaps owing to the trouble and expense incidental to manufacture, iind only a limited use. In general, meals are made from the ordinary edible nuts by blanching, thoroughly drying, and grinding. By using a nut mill sucli meals may be ground at home. .iVnalyses of some products of this character will be found in the talile t)n page 299. Almond meal has been on the market for a long time, being used as i'ooti for diabetics and for making cakes, etc., as well as in a number of technical ways. Special mention should lie made of cliestnut flour, which is on sale in tiie United States and is u.sed for most of the culinary purposes for which the fiesh nut is recommended. In Italy it constitutes a con- siderable part (if the diet, in some regions being extensively used for making a sort of bread or cake. One of the most complete studies of the dietetic use of chestnuts has been reported by Memmo." Accord- ing to the author, the chestnut often serves almost as the exclusive food of the peasants of Tuscany for a considerable part of the year. The whole nuts are eaten in a variety of ways; for instance, boiled in water wTthout hulling, ladled and boiled, or roasted. From the flour various cakes and other foods are made. Acorn meal made into a sort of bread with I lie addition of about 7.5 per cent of flour is a common article of diet in several regions, notably Und)ria and Tus- cany, but tlie bread is l)lack and heavy and not very j)alatable. The early travelers and explorers make mention of the extended use of nuts by the American Indians, and the custom c^f using acorns " Lw. cil.; .see also p. 302. Yearbc-..-'K U S D. p; of Aancul-u..-, 1906 Plate XV. Fig. 1 .—California Indians Pounding Acorn Meal for Food. Fig. 2.- California Indian Leaching Acorns for Food. NUTS AXD THEIR USES AS FOOD. 307 as a staple food is still kept iijx Tiie niPtliods tf iircparinji; acorns followed by the Indians of northern California have been described by P. E. Goddard" in a publication of the University of California, and by V. K. Chesnnt,'' formerly of tlie Department of Af;riculture. Briefly speakino;, the shelled luits are split, dried, and ground with a mortar and pestle. The sifted floiu' is placed in a hollow in the sand on a convenient river bank and leached to free it from the bitter prin- ci])les present. From the leached meal a porrid<;;e or mush is made, wliich to the ordinary palate is nnich imj)roYed by the addition of salt. Plate XV shows the way in which the nuts are pounded into flour, and also shows an Indian woman leaching the meal. These tyjncal Indian foods, when well j)re|)ared, are relished by many persons who have tried them, and it seems not improbal)le that improved methods of removing the tannin and bitter ])iinciples present in most varieties of acorns might result in the utilization of the ai'orn crop, which is fairly large and is generally wasted. According to Chesnut's'' investigations, th<» California l)uckey(> or hor.se-chestnut is also used by the Indians as a food and is leached to fr(>e it from p isonous or objeetional)le matters in much (he same way as the acorn. Many attemjits have l)een made in Europe and else- where to treat the fruit of theconnnon liorse-chestnut in some way so that it might be made wholesome and ]>alatabl(>, for it undoubtedly contains an abundance of nutritive material, ])articiilarly starch: but none of these attempts has been really succes.sful. The use of partly extracted peanuts and other nut meals with wheat and rye flour for bread making shoidd be mentioned. Such breads liave lieen used for patients with diabetes, but have never come into general use, pei'ha])s because they arc not very palatable, since the nuts become rancid so r(>adily. Xl'T CAXDIES. One of the most extensive u.ses of nuts is in the manufactui(> of candy of various sorts, such as sugared almonds, liurnt almonds, mi( chocolates, caramels, pinoche, nut brittle, etc. WHiile there are si)me differences in the process of manufacture followed in these candies, they all in the main consist of nuts and sugar in varying jimportions, with flavoring extracts, and in some instances butter and flour. The table on page 299 shows the composition of common soi'ts oi nut candy. As may be seen, the water content is low and these can- dies are highly concentrated foods. On account of the ailded sugar the carbohydrate content is high. The proportion of nuts used in candies varies. By assuming that the nuts furnish the bulk of the fat aUniv. Cal. Pubs., Aiu.'r. .Vicli. and EthnoL. 1 (1903), Xo. 1, p. 27. 6 1'. S. Di-pt. Agr., Div. I'.i.l., Conlrib. Nat. Herlxariiun, 7 1 19021, p. :«.3. choc. cit.. p. 3G(j. 308 YEARBOOK OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. in tlie candy, it is estimated that nuts constituted about 50 per cent m the specimens analyzed. It is perhaps well to sugp;est that nut can- dies and other candies which sometimes cause digestive distin-bances would be more satisfactory if eaten in a rational way and at tlie proper time. Since they are concentrated foods, they should naturally replace an equivalent amount of some other food material and not be eaten in quantity simply for their palatable flavor in addition to an otherwise adequate daily ration. Xl'T COFFEES. A number of colfee substitutes made from nuts have been devised and placed on the market, peanut coffee and acorn coffee being by far the most common. The nuts are parched and sometimes otherwise treated. Sucii coffee substitutes lack the stimulating properties of true coffee, and tlie infusion does not have the high nutritive value which is sometimes claimed for it. (iKEEN NUTS. A number of kinds of nuts are used before thev are fidly ripe, and are esteemed a delicacy. In California in spring the markets quite commonly ofl'er green almonds — tliat is, the almond picked from the tree while the husk is of a decided green color and easily separated from the soft and immature shell. The kernel, after the skin is peeled off, is eaten with or without salt, and is relished In' many persons. The price of green almonds in California markets commonly varies from about 20 to 35 cents per pound. Green almonds are foiuid to a limited extent in fancy fruit shops in eastern cities and elsewhere, and are perhaps purchased as much for their ornamental apj^earance as for tiieir palat ability. They are much more commonly used in Europe than in the United States. Green English walnuts and green hazelnuts are also eaten to a considerable extent in Europe and are great favorites. The nuts are gathered when the shells are fully matured but not thoroughly "ripe. Sometimes these green nuts are imported into the United States. Many who have growii uji in the country will recall the delicate flavor of the immature butternut and hickory nut and the stained fuigers which they caused. Such green nuts have apparently never been marketed. Whole green walnuts and some other nuts are also used in a quite immature state for ])ickle making. They are picked when still tender enough to be easily pierced by a large pin; then, after being kept in brine for a number of days, they are exposed to the sun until they turn black. Afterwards they are placed in jars and covered with hot vinegar and spices. Sometimes they are treated with dry NUTS AND THEIR USES AS FOOD. 3U9 salt instead of brine liefore picl^ling. It is claimed tiiat nuts thus treated will blacken without l)einsj; exposed to sunliglit. Such pickled nuts are considered by many as a very palatal)le dish for use with meats and ]ioultry. Walnut catsuj) is also made from green walnuts. NIT OILS AND 01L-CAKI-: MKALS. In some parts of Europe almond oil, walnut oil, and beechnut oil are manufactured and prized as salad oils, and in South America Brazil-nut oil is used for table purposes. C'ocoanut oil is an important oil in the Tropics. Peanut oil finds a large technical aj)])licalion and is also used in large quantities as a salad oil and for culinary j^urposes. Oils are also made from the kernel or mil of the ])each and ii])ricot, but these, like uKist nut oils except those mentioned, arc ascstibility of nuts have been discussed in the foregoing i)ages, but little has been said regarding the cost of nutrients and energ_\' which they su])ply as compared with other and more com- mon food materials. The table oti page ;!1() shows the comparative cost of a pound of protein and 1, ()()() calories of energy when furnished by different nuts and nut jiroducts and some other staple foods, and also the amounts of nutrients and energy which 10 cents' worth of the.se foods would sup])ly, rating the foods at certain average |)rices per pound. The common nuts — though, with the exception of the peanut, they are more ex]>ensive sources of prered in this connection that these are the raw materials recjuirmg con- siderable preparation before they are palatable. This is not neces- sary witli fruits antl nuts, except in the case of tlie peanut and chest- nut, which are usuallj' roasted before they are considered palatable })y most persons, though there are those who prefer them raw. When considering nuts, it is readily observed that 10 cents will buy about the same amount of nut protein as of animal ]>rotein, except in the case of cheese and skim milk. If spent for peanuts, it will purchase more than twice the protein and six times the energy that could be bought for tiie same expenditure fi)r ]>orterliouse steak. r other foods for com- parison; Porterhouse steak Whole milk Cheddar cheese Wheat flour Beans, dried Potatoes Amount for 10 cents. Cost of one pound protein. Dollars. 1.76 2.26 1.48 1.16 1..55 .32 2.47 .74 .88 2. f.6 .117 .(iS 2.42 Cost of 1,000 calories energy. Cents. 13.0 12.6 8.3 2.7 7.1 3.6 9.1 8.4 6.1 Ki.O 21.0 7.1 U.8 25 1.31 22. .") 4 1.21 12.0 ir, . .w 7. 5 3 .26 1.8 r, .22 3.1 1. U 6.4 Total weight of food material. Protein. 1 Pounds. Pounds. ' 0..50 0.06 ..TO .04 1.2.5 .07 2. 0(1 OS 1. 11 .00 1.43 .31 .67 .04 .40 .14 .50 .11 .m .04 or. .03 .56 .1.5 .40 .04 .40 .07 2.50 .OS .62 .17 3.33 ..IS 2.00 . 45 5.00 .09 Fat. Carl 10- hy- dra'tes. Pounds. Pounds. 0.14 0.14 .16 .02 .06 .44 .73 .29 .28 .04 .45 .20 .23 .04 .20 .03 .27 .08 .13 .03 .06 .10 .23 .09 .07 .28 Energy .13 .03 2.50 1.19 .74 Calories. 767 789 1,196 3,062 1,404 2,767 1,003 1,182 1,124 633 475 1,412 845 444 815 1,330 5,495 3,210 1,550 It is of more than passing interest to note that 10 cents' worth of peanuts will contain al)out 4 ounces (120 grams) of protein and 2,767 calories of energy, which is more protein and energy than is furnished by many rations regarded as adetjuate for a day. Although peanuts supi:)ly protein and energj' for a smaller sum than bread, they are outranked by dried beans, which, at H cents a pound, will supply NUTS AND THEIR USKS AS FOOD. 311 for 10 cents over 200 grains of {)rotein and 3,200 calories of enereanuts. IIAXDI.INC AND MAHKF.TINCi NTTS. Within tiie last few years the trade in shelled nuts has \(>ry mark- edly increased, and shelled walnuts, hickory nuts, iduionds, English walnuts, pecans, etc., are now verj' commonly found in sho))s. The bidk ports of the im|)erial department of agriculture of tiie West Indies," a similar jirocess has been success- fully used for bleaching )>eanuts. The consumer should bear in mind that tiie bleaching of nuts is entirely unnecessary and in no way increases tlieii- food value. Tiie ])rocess is cai'ried on solely for the purpose of impro\iiig the appearance of tht' nut and tluis com- manding a higher price. It will doubtless be ci>ntinued as long as the public is willing to be guided by appearance ratiier tlian food value. The term "Ideaching," as ajiplietl to nuts, nuist not be con- founded with tile hou.sehold term "blanching," which a])plies to the process of removing tlie skins from nut meats, as almonds, by immers- ing them for a short time in hot water. Vegetables and fruits exposed for sale under ordinary conditions may be readily contaminated with bacteria, dirt, and dust. Nuts sold in their shells are ]>rotected in large measure from sucii contami- nation, yet many careful housewives wash, m- at least wipe, the nuts a Imp. Dept. Agr. West Indies Pamphlet No. 4;i, n. s. f; 312 YEARBOOK OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. which arc to be cracked and served in the shells, as anything which adheres to the shell woukl readilj^ contaminate the nuts after crack- ing, if all were mixed together in a dish. Shelled nuts, if exposed to dust in shops and markets, shouhl be washed before they are used for salads, etc. If exposed to damp conditions, nuts mold and decay, and even under favorable conditions the nut oils and pits become rancid on long-continued storing. In the main, however, the keeping (juali- ties of most nuts are excellent. Nuts should be stored in sucli a way that they may be free from attacks of insect enemies. When such precautions are not taken , ' ' wormy ' ' nuts are by no means uncommon . SUMMARY. Summarizing the foregoing data, it may be said that nuts are a • very concentrated food, even more so than cheese, but when ration- j; ally used they are well assimilated and may form a part of a well- y. balanced diet. Nuts are a very valuable source of protein and fat, % these two nutrients being the characteristic constituents of the more % common nuts, of which the walnut and cocoanut may be t-aken as f: types. In nuts like the chestnut, carbohydrates are a characteristic \- ct)nstituent. For most families it is untloulitedly wiser to use nuts i; as part of the regular diet than as a condiment or supplement to an V. otherwise hearty meal. t \'egetarians and others who use mits in place of meat should not ■;; depend upon them as the main food supply, but should supplement J; them with more bulky foods with a low content of protein and fat. k As a whole, nuts may be classed among the staple foods and not :■ simply as food accessories. At usual prices, nuts are reasonable ;.' sources of protein and energy. Peanuts supply protein and energy ■ very cheaply, even compared with such staple foods as bread and beans. There are a number of nut foods on the market, but it may ; be stated tluit tliere is little to be gained from the standpoint of food . value or economy' in their use, especially b}' healthy persons who ' are willing to masticate their food thoroughly and to use nuts m •, reasonal)le combinations. Unless something has been added, the nutritive materials in such special preparations can not be greater than the nuts from which they are made, though in the mechanical . condition or in some other way the foods may be better fitted for ready assimilation. Furthermore, nut butters and similar foods give a pleasant variety to the diet, and they are relished by many wjio would not care for the unprejiared nuts. Though less subject to contamination than many other footls, nuts should be handled and stored under good conditions, and especially should he protected from dampness and insect enemies. O LIBRARY OF CONGRESS iiiiMi III ;i.i 013 826 843 3