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 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. ^ 
 
A MODERN HANDRAIL 
 
Common-Sense Stair 
 Building and Handrailing 
 
 SHOWING THREE OF THE SIMPLEST METHODS KNOWN IN THE 
 
 ART, WITH COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAYING OUT 
 
 AND WORKING HANDRAILS SUITABLE FOR ANY KIND 
 
 OF A STAIR, STRAIGHT, CIRCULAR OR ELLIPTICAL, 
 
 OR FOR STAIRS WITH LANDINGS AND CYLINDERS 
 
 .^tair '25uilDin5 
 
 COVERS UPWARDS OF EIGHTY PAGES, DEVOTED TO NEWEL 
 
 OR PLATFORM STAIRS CHIEFLY, GIVING INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 FOR THEIR BUILDING, PLANNING AND DECORATION 
 
 BY 
 
 FRED T. HODGSON, Architect 
 
 Illustrated with over Two Hundred and Fifty Drawings and 
 Diagrams, and Containing a Glossary of Terms Used in Stair 
 Building and Handrailing; and in addition. Twenty-five Mod- 
 erate Priced House Designs, Showing the Perspective View and 
 Floor Plans. 
 
 ->•>-, D 3 J 
 
 CHICAGO 
 
 FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO. 
 
 PUBLISHERS 
 
LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
 Two Copies Received 
 APR 11 1904 
 , Copyright Entry 
 
 CLASS HV XXC. No. 
 
 COPY B 
 
 ^ ^ ?.!^ 
 
 € „• « O" 
 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The following pages in handrailing are taken from 
 the actual working drawings of practical handrailers. 
 The first division is, in a great measure, the work of 
 George Langstaff, New England, and is considered by 
 expert workmen to be one of the best treatises of the 
 kind, with regard to the stairs dealt with. Of course 
 there are only eleven kinds of stairs, but they are so 
 arranged that any person mastering to the full extent 
 these eleven would find no insurmountable difificulty in 
 dealing with stairs of other kinds. 
 
 It must be remembered that the reader of this book 
 is supposed to have a considerable knowledge regard- 
 ing the various methods of building the stair proper in 
 all its different forms, for without this knowledge it 
 will be impossible to understand the method of laying 
 out and constructing a rail, even for a straight stair 
 having a ramp at the newel post. There is a book 
 entitled "Stair-Building Made Easy," price one dollar, 
 which teaches, in a \'ery simple manner, the proper 
 way to layout the carcass of a stair, and all new begin- 
 ners who have not obtained a fair knowledge on the 
 subject should procure one of these books, which, in 
 conjunction with this work, will fully equip any young 
 man with all the information he will ever likely require 
 regarding the art of stair-building and handrailing. 
 
 5 
 
6 PREFACE 
 
 The greater portion of the first division was pub- 
 lished in "The Builder and Woodworker" many years 
 ago, and afterwards, in a very much amended form, in 
 "The National Builder," and is now in book form for 
 the first time. 
 
 The second division which contains some excellent 
 examples is the work of several contributors, who 
 worked under a like system. The methods of obtaining 
 the wreaths and twists are worth studying, as they 
 show how these can be lined out with the greatest of 
 ease when the subject is understood. This method is 
 nearly complete in itself. 
 
 The third division is perhaps the most complete of 
 the three, as about any kind of a rail can be obtained 
 by the use of this system. While not exactly like the 
 system of the late Robert Riddell, it approaches it so 
 nearly that ordinary workmen would scarcely know the 
 difference, but there is a difference, and Mr. Wilson, 
 who has helped to work this system out, deserves 
 much credit for simplifying, the whole scheme. 
 
 The science of handrailing was never reduced to such 
 simplicity as now, and it is claimed for the three 
 divisions shown in "Common-Sense Handrailing" that 
 the latest and simplest methods are shown therein, and 
 this, too, at about one-fifth the cost of the older and 
 more elaborate methods. In saying this we do not 
 mean to belittle the larger and m some cases the more 
 extended works of Nicholson, Graff, Reynalds, 
 Sherrett, Monckton, Secor, Riddell and others. Each 
 
PREFACE 7 
 
 and every one has much to recommend it, and the 
 expert handrailer will no doubt have copies of these 
 larger works on his shelves. To the first and last of 
 the names given in the foregoing belong the greatest 
 honors in this science, the first for his invention, or 
 rather discovery, of the true geometrical principles 
 involved, and the latter for divesting the science of its 
 crudities and reducing it to more simple conditions. 
 Nearly all improvements in the science are due in 
 large measure to the methods employed by Robert 
 Riddell. 
 
 The prismatic solid when thoroughly understood will 
 show to the student pretty nearly everything required 
 in handrailing, and it is the advice of the writer that 
 this solid should be analyzed by the young man who 
 wishes to become an expert, and the study will neither 
 be tedious nor uninteresting. 
 
 In all cases . a stairway should be commodious, 
 inviting and easy of ascent, and when winders are used 
 they should extend past the spring line of the cylinder, 
 so as to give a fair wreath at narrow end of tread and 
 to bring the rail as near as possible to the same pitch 
 as rail over square steps, and when the hall or space is 
 sufficiently wide should not be less than 3 feet 6 inches 
 in width; 4 feet would be much better, then two 
 persons can pass each other. The height of riser and 
 width of step are governed by the space allowed for the 
 stairs, but as a general rule the step should not be less 
 than 9 inches wide and the riser should not exceed 
 
8 PREFACE 
 
 8 inches in height. Seven inches rise and II inches 
 tread make a very easy and good-looking stairway. If 
 the width of tread is increased the riser must be corre- 
 spondingly reduced. The tread and riser together 
 should not be over i8 inches or less than 17 inches. 
 Of course there are occasions when this rule cannot 
 be employed, and the workman will be called upon to 
 exercise his own judgment, but the closer he keeps to 
 this rule the better will be his stair so far as comfort 
 and convenience are concerned. 
 
 This little book contains over 120 illustrations— all of 
 a practical nature — and it is hoped the text describing 
 them is sufficiently clear, and that the student will have 
 no difficulty in understanding what is meant and in 
 being able, after understanding them, to construct a 
 handrail over any flight of stairs that he may be called 
 upon to erect. This is the ardent wish of the writer. 
 
 Fred T. Hodgson. 
 January, 1903. 
 
TStaircase Newel | 
 
 STAIRCASE NEWEL AND RAIL 
 
Common-Sense Handrailing 
 
 FIRST METHOD 
 
 The building of stairs and properly making and 
 placing over them a graceful handrail and suitable 
 balusters and newel posts is one of the greatest achieve- 
 ments of the joiner's art and skill, yet it is an art that is 
 the least understood of any of the constructive processes, 
 that the carpenter or joiner is called upon to accom- 
 plish. In but very few of the plans made by an 
 architect are the stairs properly laid down or divided 
 off; indeed, most of the stairs as laid out and planned 
 by the architect, are impossible ones owing to the fact 
 that the circumstances that govern the formation of 
 the rail are either not understood, or not noticed by 
 the designor; and the expert handrailer often finds it 
 difficult to conform the stairs and rail to the plan. 
 Generally, however, he gets so close to it that the 
 character of the design is seldom changed. 
 
 The stairs are the great feature of a building, as they 
 are the first object that meets the visitor and claims his 
 attention, and it is essential, therefore, that the stair 
 and its adjuncts should have a neat and graceful 
 appearance, and this can only be accomplished by 
 having the rail properly made and set up. 
 
 It is proposed in this little book to give such 
 instructions in the art of handrailing as will enable 
 
 9 
 
lo COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 the young workman to build a rail so that it will 
 assume a handsome appearance when set in place. 
 There are eleven distinct styles of stairs shown, but 
 the same principle that governs the making of the 
 simplest rail, governs the construction of the most 
 difficult, so, having once mastered the simple prob- 
 lems in this system, progress in the art will become 
 easy, and a little study and practice will enable the 
 workman to construct a rail for the most tortuous stair- 
 way. 
 
 A knowledge of geometry is not required in the 
 study of this system, but it would aid the workman 
 materially if he possessed a knowledge of that science, 
 and where possible he should avail himself of acquir- 
 ing as much knowledge of geometry as possible, not 
 only for the study of handrailing but nearly every 
 branch of the building trade. 
 
 The progressive lessons given herewith will, I am 
 sure, be of great assistance to stair-builders already 
 engaged in the business and to the young aspiring 
 mechanic, anxious to master every branch of his trade 
 and to penetrate all its mysteries. This system will 
 open a hitherto sealed book, especially to the young 
 man whose knowledge of geometry may be rather 
 limited. There will be no labyrinthic network of lines 
 to torment and confuse the student, nothing but what 
 is absolutely necessary to obtain the face moulds and 
 bevels for marking and working the wreaths. The 
 figures from i to 1 1 show flights of stairs of various 
 shapes and forms, and cover all the examples the 
 workman will ever likely be called upon to build. At 
 any rate, if he should have to construct a form of 
 stairs not shown in these examples, the knowledge 
 gained by a study of these presented wilh enable him 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 II 
 
 to wrestle with other forms, no matter what their plans 
 may be. The only form of stair not shown that the 
 student may be called upon to build would very likely 
 be flights having an elliptical plan, but as this form is 
 so seldom used, and then only in public buildings or 
 great mansions, it seldom falls to the lot of the ordi- 
 nary workman to be called upon to design or construct 
 them. However, to provide for such a contingency a 
 method of laying out and constructing a handrail will 
 be illustrated and described at the close . of this 
 treatise. 
 
 Fig. 1. J 
 
 Fig. I exhibits the plan of a straight stair with an 
 ordinary cylinder at the top, provided for a return rail 
 on the landing. It also shows a lengthened step at 
 the starting. 
 
 Fig. 2 • 
 
 ) 
 
 Fig. 2 shows a plan of a stair with a landing and 
 return steps. 
 
12 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 V\<^. 3 shows a 
 [)lan with an acute 
 angular landing 
 and cylinder. 
 
 Fig. 4 shows the same kind of stair as Fig. 3, only- 
 being at an obtuse angle. 
 
 Fig. 5 
 
 Fig. 5 exhibits a stair having a half-turn with two 
 risers on landings. 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 13 
 
 Fig. 6, 
 
 Fig. 6 shows a plan of a quarter-space stair with 
 four winders. 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 Fig. 7 is the plan of a stair similar to Fig. 6, but 
 
 having seven winders. 
 
 Fig. 8 shows the plan of a stair having five "dancing 
 winders." 
 
H 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig. 9 is the plan of a half-space stair having five 
 "dancing winders" and a quarter-space landing. 
 
 Fig. 10 shows the plan of a half-space stair with 
 'dancing winders" all around the cylinder. 
 
FIRST METHOD 15 
 
 Fig. II shows the 
 plan of a geometrical 
 stair having winders 
 all around the cylin- 
 der. 
 
 As it is necessary 
 the student should be 
 acquainted with the 
 methods of develop- 
 ment of the angle of 
 tangents which give 
 shape and joints of 
 
 the face moulds directly from the pitch lines, a couple 
 of examples are herewith illustrated. Fig. 12 shows 
 a straight pitch in which both tangents are of equal 
 length, while Fig. 13 shows the tangents of unequal 
 lengths and different pitches, and I advise the student 
 to thoroughly master these two problems by frequently 
 reproducing them, as these two examples are the very 
 foundation of the system we are about to submit. 
 
 A tangent is a line touching a circle at right angles 
 to the radius as shown at Fig. 14, and is readily con- 
 structed and as easily understood. 
 
 To construct Fig. 12, from center O with the 
 radius OA, describe a quarter circle, APC; draw tan- 
 gents AB and CB, join AC; through the point B draw 
 a straight line parallel to AC; with center B, with 
 radius BA, describe the arcs AD and CE; at the point 
 E erect the perpendicular EF at right angles to DE to 
 any desired height (in laying out a handrail this height 
 will be the same as the height of the number of risers 
 contained in the wreath); let F be the given height 
 (this being one pitch); join FD, extend OB to G; from 
 G draw GH at right angles to FD; make GH equal to 
 
COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig, J 2, 
 
 O 
 
 BI. With the center H and radius DG describe arcs, 
 cutting DF at K and L; draw HL and HK, which are 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 tangents on the pitch, and which, when placed in posi- 
 tion, would stand plumb over ABC. 
 
i8 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 7ari0tnt 
 
 To construct Fig, 13, proceed in the same manner as 
 in Fig. 12, until the height is located. It will be 
 
 noticed that in this exam- 
 ple BG is lifted higher, 
 making the pitch-lines and 
 tangents FG and DG of un- 
 equal lengths. To obtain 
 the angle continue BG to 
 H, making BH equal to 
 EF; from H draw the line 
 HJ to any distance at right 
 angles to DG. With the 
 center G and radius GF 
 describe an arc cutting 
 the line HJ at S; join SG and SD and the angle is com- 
 pleted. 
 
 An easy way to prove the correctness of these prob- 
 lems is to draw them on common thick paper or card- 
 board on a larger scale than shown in these diagrams; 
 then take a knife and cut out theangle DEF, place it per- 
 pendicularly over ABC, bringing D over A and E over 
 C; then cut out the angle HKL, and if drawn correctly 
 it will lie on the pitch-lines and fit the sides exactly. 
 
 To draw the curve line in the most practical way 
 take B as a center, and with radius BP describe an arc 
 touching the curve APC in the angle ABC; from H as 
 a center, with the same radius, describe an arc cutting 
 HG at M; then take a thin flexible strip of wood of 
 an even thickness, bend it until it touches the points 
 KLM; mark around it with a pencil, and the curve is 
 completed, and near enough to absolute accuracy for 
 all practical purposes. The curve so obtained in its 
 perfection should be a portion of an ellipse, which it 
 will be if correctly drawn. 
 
FIRST METHOD 19 
 
 Let us now go back to Fig. i and describe the 
 method for obtaining the face moulds and bevels 
 of turnout and wreath pieces for that style of a 
 stair. 
 
 To build these stairs correctly and with an easy, 
 graceful rail, two or three things must be carefully 
 observed in taking dimensions and laying down the 
 plan. Measure the height from top of first, to top of 
 second floor; set the rod you measure with plumb at 
 the trimmer where the stairs land, and be sure that the 
 lower end is level from where the stairs start. Measure 
 the width of opening from studding to face of trim- 
 mer, also the depth of joist, that the cylinder may 
 curve round and meet the face board level; plumb down 
 from the header at landing, and measure back the 
 amount of run where the stairs start; divide the height 
 into the necessary number of risers, space off the run, 
 making one less than in dividing the height, and also 
 make allowance for the cylinder, landing and swell of 
 the turnout steps. Where it is practicable make the 
 rise seven inches or as near to it as possible, and make 
 the tread, or step, ten inches or as near as can be, as 
 this combination makes a very easy stair for dwell- 
 ings, but of course the height of riser and width of 
 tread will be dependent to a great extent on the sur- 
 rounding conditions. 
 
 In laying out the steps for the turnout observe the 
 same rule that applies to all winding stairs, that is, to 
 make them as near the width of the straight treads as 
 possible on the walking line. Locate the landing riser 
 exactly half a step from the center of rail on landing, 
 as shown at Fig. 15. This will bring the rail the same 
 height on landing as it is in the middle of the step. 
 Any departure from this rule will either change the 
 
20 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 height or will make it necessary to spring the wreath 
 or slab off the shank, a very clumsy experiment. 
 
 Fig. 15 shows the plan of turnout steps, with rail 
 mitering into cap. The dotted curved line shows face 
 of string. The black line shows center of rail with 
 tangent ABC at right angles to dotted radius. 
 
 Fig. 16 shows the 
 tangents in position on 
 the pitch. To construct 
 Fig. 16, take the pitch- 
 board and mark out the 
 steps as shown. Be- 
 ginning at third riser 
 and coming down, draw 
 pitch-line CB from second riser D; mark distance DE, 
 which gives angle B; draw level tangent BA, agree- 
 ing with BA, Fig. 15; continue line of first step with 
 dotted line to F, draw FC; continue the line AB to G. 
 The distance from G to C is the required height, and 
 EB gives the height to which the rail is lifted at the 
 newel. 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 21 
 
 -FigAT. 
 
 To construct Fig. 17, 
 draw tangents ABC, and 
 curve line exactly like 
 Fig. 15. In practice 
 this figure can be drawn 
 on Fig. 15, and to avoid 
 confusion of lines it is 
 transferred. Continue 
 AB to D; draw DC at 
 right angles to DB; set 
 up the height, GC, Fig. 
 16. Connect ED at right 
 angles to ED, draw DF; 
 with D as center, de- 
 scribe an arc from B to 
 G and from A to F, then 
 connect EG; draw dot- 
 ted ordinates AA to 
 mark center of curve and 
 
 chord line. The spring bevel for squaring the wreath 
 at lower end is found at angle E. To obtain the bevel 
 for upper joints take a center anywhere on line ED, 
 describe an arc touching EG and cutting ED at H. 
 Draw line from center of arc at right angles to ED, cut- 
 ting EC at I. Connect HI, and the angle at H is the 
 
 upper spring bevel. 
 The develop- 
 mentof pitch-line 
 for wreath is 
 shown at Fig. 18. 
 First make apian 
 of the cylinder; 
 draw center line 
 of rail with tan- 
 
22 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 gents CAB (the distance from face of string to center 
 of rail varies according to size of baluster), locate the 
 risers, putting last one-half step from angle A, locate 
 the joint of rail at riser C. With A for a center de- 
 scribe the arc ACD, extend AB to D, swing last riser 
 around to E, chord line H, and X to I. Place pitch- 
 board with riser touching AC, and hypothenuse or 
 raking side cutting through E; draw pitch-line and 
 continue AC to meet it at F. AF is the height of rail 
 above the floor; draw FG at right angles to FC; con- 
 tinue radius O through to G, square up from I to pitch- 
 line and from H and D down. 
 
 Fig. 20, 
 
 To construct Fig. 19 (this figure can be drawn on 
 Fig. 18, but is transferred for the same reason as Fig. 
 17), draw a line agreeing exactly with pitch-line DF, 
 with points HEI marked; make FG at right angles to 
 DF, and equal to FG, Fig. 18. Draw the line I equal to 
 X, Fig. 18, bend in a thin strip of wood and draw 
 curve GIH. Set off half the width of rail on each side 
 of this curve line, square the joints from the tangents 
 KFG, and the mould is completed. A little more 
 than the finished size of rail is necessary to square the 
 wreath, but not often more than one-eighth of an inch 
 on each side. The surest way is to draw the spring 
 bevel on a board, place a templet the size of the rail 
 on a bevel line at right angles to it, square from the 
 edge of board across corners, draw parallel lines 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 23 
 
 enclosing the templet, and it will be seen at once how 
 wide the mould should be and what thickness of plank 
 is required. This method is seen in application of 
 bevels at Figs. 21 and 22. 
 
 Fig. 20 shows the bevel portion of wreath; a better 
 appearance is given to the wreath by using plank half 
 an inch thicker than the rail, and casing it up from 
 center joint as shown by the sections on end of mould. 
 
 
 < 
 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 
 \ 
 
 \, 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 
 
 . 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 m 
 
 Figs. 21 and 22 show the application of the spring 
 bevels and templets for squaring the wreaths. 
 
 The bevel for Fig. 21 is found at F, and is simply the 
 pitch of the stairs. The bevels for the turnout wreath 
 are both applied in the same manner, from the inside, 
 or the face cutting through the center, as shown by the 
 sections. 
 
 The following illustrations exhibit a method of 
 obtaining the face moulds for the flight of stairs shown 
 at Fig. 2, which is a flight the most common in use. 
 
 To obtain dimensions make the plan, etc., and fol- 
 low the instructions given for Fig. I. Where the ri- 
 sers are located half a step from center of rail, as 
 explained previously, the same method will apply to 
 this flight, and the bevel will be the pitch of the stairs 
 at the center point, and the section will be square with 
 the face of stuff at the straight end of wreath. 
 
 Suppose Fig. 23 to be the ground plan of cylinder, 
 with risers placed in a position that insures an easy. 
 
24 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 graceful rail, and also adds to the run by curving the 
 landing and starting risers back to the platform. 
 
 To construct Fig. 23, draw the center line of rail 
 and tangents ABCD; from B and C as centers, swing 
 around A and D, cutting B and C extended; swing 
 around the risers E and F in like manner; place pitch- 
 board with riser parallel to AB and touching H, and 
 the raking side, cutting through G. Mark out the 
 treads and risers as shown at XXXX. Draw pitch- 
 lines, as shown, cutting AB and DC extended up; join 
 IK, and the pitch-line is complete. To obtain the 
 angle of tangents at K draw dotted line from center of 
 cylinder cutting IK at L. Draw MN through L 
 parallel with BC. At right angles to upper pitch-line 
 draw dotted line NO. From center K swing around 
 KL to O; connect KO, and the angle is complete. 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 25 
 
 To obtain the spring bevels — from center B 
 describe an arc, touching the pitch-line KI extended, 
 and cutting BI at P; connect PG, and the bevel for 
 center joint is found at P. 
 
 To obtain bevels for joints connecting with straight 
 rail, take M as a center and describe an arc touch- 
 ing lower pitch extended, connect with L, and the 
 bevel is found. 
 
 Fig. 24 
 
 Figs. 24 and 25 show the sections and application 
 of bevels on rails. Fig. 24 is the lower and Fig. 25 
 the upper wreath; the same face would serve for both, 
 as the upper and lower pitches are the same. 
 
 Let us now examine Figs. 3 and 4, and endeavor to 
 form rails to suit them. As before stated, these two 
 examples represent on the ground plans obtuse and 
 acute angles at the return landings; and in the forma- 
 tion of rails to meet the requirements for these stairs, 
 the student will have covered the ground for the for- 
 mation of rails for nearly every kind of rail required 
 for a platform stair. In locating these risers at the 
 landings be sure to place them, if possible, exactly 
 
26 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 half a step each way from angle B, Fig. 26. This wili 
 insure an easy rail 
 
 Fig. 26 shows the development of the angle of tan- 
 gents for the face mould and the bevel for springing 
 the wreath. Draw the angle ABC on center line of 
 rail as shown; draw dotted line from center O to B; 
 draw DE at right angles to OB; from center B swing 
 around A and C to D and E; set up one riser from D 
 to F, and one down from E; mark one step above and 
 below the pitch-board; draw pitch-line XX. 
 
 Connect CA, and continue OB to G; with B as a 
 center, describe an arc touching CA; from G as a 
 center with the same radius, describe an arc; from E 
 draw line touching this arc; from G again swing 
 around GF to H; connect GH, and the angle of tan- 
 gent is complete. The amount of straight wood on 
 wreath is shown from E and H to the joints XX. 
 
 To obtain the bevel it is first necessary to find the 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 27 
 
 point I; from H with FD for radius, swing an arc and 
 intersect with another from E; having CA for radius, 
 connect El and HI; take a center, K, anywhere on the 
 line EH, draw an arc touching GH and cutting EH at 
 L; square down from K, cutting JH at M; connect 
 LM, and the bevel is found for both joints of the 
 wreath, the pitch being one straight line. Fig. 27 
 shows applica- 
 tion of bevel to 
 wreath. 
 
 Figs. 28 and 
 29 are simply a 
 re pet i tion of 
 Figs. 26 and 27 
 excepting that the ground plan forms an obtuse angle. 
 
 Fig, 30 shows the manner of sliding the mould on 
 the wreath to mark it for blocking. We may state here 
 that there have been worked some hundreds of rails 
 during the past thirty years by this method, and we 
 have come to the conclusion that the easiest and 
 
28 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 quickest way to block out a rail is to use just such 
 
 moulds as are 
 shown in the 
 drawing, viz., 
 of a parallel 
 widths and 
 just sufficient- 
 ly large to 
 square the rail 
 properly for 
 moulding. 
 When the 
 wreath is sawed out, the face of stuff carefully planed 
 true, the tangents marked and the joints made perfectly 
 square with the face and with the tangents, then square 
 the tangent across the joints, mark the center and draw 
 the bevel across, as shown in Fig. 27, mark the section 
 of rail at right angles to bevel. The best method of 
 doing this is to use a thin templet with a small hole in 
 the center, through which put a scratch awl, then swing 
 the templet until exactly at right angles with bevel and 
 mark all round it. The section being marked, square 
 in from the joints on all sides to make sure the 
 wreath will bolt on to the straight rail and form 
 a clean line. To mark the curve line slide the 
 mould up, as shown in Fig. 30, mark the inside 
 edge (this line will not be quite as accurate as 
 one made from an elliptical mould on the sliding 
 principle with wide ends, but it is near enough 
 for all practical purposes) by roughing out the inside 
 first and occasionally planing through the wreath. 
 Looking in the direction of a plumb-line, it will be seen 
 at once when to take off the superfluous wood, and 
 with a little care the inside will soon show a clean, true 
 
FIRST METHOD 29 
 
 surface. As soon as this is done gauge the wreath to a 
 width, then bend in a thin strip. Connecting the 
 straight lines squared in from each end, mark around the 
 outside in the same manner, mark off the top, gauge to a 
 thickness, and the wreath is squared. The plumb-line 
 can be marked on the inside of the wreath, and wil 
 give the line of sight by taking the bevel from the 
 angle EHJ, Fig. 26. 
 
 Now we will describe the method for constructing 
 the face moulds of a handrailing for a stair suitable for 
 the plan shown in Fig. 5. In this example two prob- 
 lems are used to obtain the development of tangents, 
 bends and twists of the rail. 
 
 Let Fig. 31 represent the ground plan of cylinder 
 with the risers marked in position, also the elevation 
 and "pitch" inclination of center line. 
 
 It will be noticed that the pitch-line is perfectly 
 straight. This is caused by the risers being placed so 
 as to bring them exactly the width ot a step from each 
 other on the tangent line, as shown in the plan and 
 elevation. Fig. 31. This is a point the student should 
 always bear in mind; locate the risers this way when- 
 ever practicable, and you are sure to have a good-look- 
 ing, easy rail. 
 
 To construct Fig. 31, the plan of cylinder being 
 made with risers and center line of rail drawn, swing 
 out A and D to meet BC extended, also the risers E 
 and F; place the pitch-board at the point where E 
 cuts the line BC, keeping the risers parallel with BA, 
 and the raking side cutting through the point where 
 A swings around to BC. Mark the step and riser and 
 continue the elevation as shown; draw the pitch-line, 
 draw GH, continue DC to L, draw MN at right angles 
 to GH and extend to chord line at S; from N at 
 
30 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILINC 
 
 right angles to pitch-line draw a line indefinitely; with 
 L for center and LH for radius, describe arc cutting 
 
 line drawn from N at O; connect LO, and the triangle 
 CLP gives the tangents for the face mould. 
 
 The pitch-line being straight, the tangents are all of 
 equal lengths, so it will be seen at once that the face 
 mould obtained will be the same for both upper and 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 31 
 
 lower wreaths, and the bevel for both ends is found at 
 R, as shown. 
 
 Fig. 32 is similar to Fig. /f^^ 
 
 12, excepting the develop- 
 ment of tangents, which it 
 will beobserved is obtained 
 somewhat differently. 
 
 Fig. 33 describes how 
 the development can be 
 obtained by the method 
 shown in Fig. 12. While 
 this method is perfectly | 
 correct in all cases where v 
 the tangents are of equal \ 
 lengths, still it is better to 
 use the methods shown in 
 Figs. 32 and 34, as they will be more correct whenever 
 a change occurs in the pitch. Fig. 34 is a facsimile 
 
 Fig. 32i 
 
 of the "development" in Fig. 31, and is drawn in 
 order to make the student more familiar with this im- 
 portant problem. 
 
32 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 In order to produce the face moulds, bevels, etc., for 
 the flight of stairs exhibited in the plan, Fig. 6, we 
 must proceed as follows. Fig. 35 shows the ground 
 
 plan and elevations of treads and risers. The expla- 
 nations given for the solution of previous examples 
 will apply to this one if the figure be properly studied, 
 as the method of proceeding to lay down the rail is 
 exactly the same. 
 
 In the elevation it will be seen that one pitch is 
 employed for the wreath and the connections made 
 with the pitch of the flyers by a ramp above and below. 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 33 
 
 One pattern answers for both ramps, as the pitch 
 over the flyers is the same in both cases. 
 
 Fig. 38 
 
 By carefully studying Fig. 12, the landing wreath, 
 Fig. 36, will be easily understood. Care must be 
 taken to locate the last riser as near half a step from 
 the level tangent as possible. 
 
 Fig. 37 shows tangents, center line of rail and the 
 application of the bevels for the wreath. 
 
 Fig. 38 shows pattern for lower ramp, and is simply 
 reversed for the upper. 
 
 These examples are simple and ought to be readily 
 digested by any workman who has ever had the least 
 experience in stair-building. The young student 
 who has: never helped to build a stair or erect a hand- 
 rail should master these simple problems (on paper) 
 and the first opportunity that offers to see a flight of 
 stairs and handrail set up he should embrace it, and 
 
34 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 the whole mystery of handrailing will disappear at 
 
 once. 
 
 Figs. 39, 40, 41 and 42 represent the method of 
 drawing moulds for flights of stairs similar to Fig. 7. 
 Starting with winders in a quarter circle, Fig. 39 
 shows the ground plan of risers, also tangents around 
 center line of rail, and their development. To con- 
 
 Fig. 39. 
 
 struct Fig. 39 draw radius from center A to joint of 
 rail at newel B. At right angles to AB draw BC. 
 This will give the angle of tangents on ground plan. 
 In wreaths of this shape the tangent BC is always 
 level so as to give a plumb joint at the newel. 
 
 Before proceeding further with Fig. 39 the height 
 must be obtained by drawing Fig. 40; this is done in 
 the manner explained in previous examples, viz., by 
 setting up each riser and obtaining the width of the 
 treads from the tangents BCD, where the risers cut 
 through. To develop the mould, Fig. 39, extend BA 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 35 
 
 to I at right angles to BI, and from joint D draw DK. 
 Make IK equal to Fig. 40. Connect BK at right angles 
 to KB and draw BL and KM. BL should equal BC, as 
 shown by the arc, and KM should equal ID. Connect 
 LM and the angle is formed for the mould. The dotted 
 ordinates give the springing line and a point through 
 which to bend the strips to obtain the curve. The 
 bevel for lower joint is found at IC To obtain the 
 bevel for the upper joint draw a line from K parallel 
 to ML. At any point on line KB describe an arc 
 touching the line drawn from K. Draw a line from 
 center of arc at right angles to KB, and cutting KD at 
 O. Connect ON and the bevel is found at N for the 
 upper joint. 
 
 Fig. 41* 
 
 Fig. 40 shows the application of bevels, the upper 
 bevel cuts shown through from the outside in all cases 
 where the angle BCD, Fig. 39, forms an acute angle; 
 when the angle is obtuse the bevel is applied from 
 the inside, the lower bevel in all cases remains the 
 same in application. 
 
 Fig. 41 shows the ramp. 
 
 There seems to be no difficulty presented in these 
 problems that cannot be readily overcome if the stu- 
 dent but applies himself diligently. We would sug- 
 gest that each one of these figures be drawn and 
 
S6 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 redrawn, until the student has become so tamiliar with 
 each one of them that he can draw them from memory 
 alone. Such practice will not make very serious 
 inroads on his time, and what investments in time are 
 made will, in the not very distant future, return big 
 interest. 
 
 In Fig. 42 we represent a flight of stairs with four 
 winders, quarter landing, and return flyers. 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 37 
 
 This shows the ground plans of cylinder, with risers 
 cutting the tangent around the center line of rail; also 
 the elevation of risers, the pitch-lines, and the 
 development of the tangents. 
 
 It will be noticed that the upper pitch-line is the 
 same as that of the return flyers, running down until it 
 meets the lower pitch at A. The rail is lifted higher 
 than usual at this point, but this is a defect which 
 will not detract from its appearance, and makes a 
 much better wreath than is drawn with a ramp. 
 
 Fig. 43, 
 
 Fig. 43 shows the face mould for the lower wreath, 
 and Fig. 44 for the upper, also sections of rail and 
 applications of the bevels. 
 
 The bevel for upper wreath is found at B, Fig. 42, as 
 shown in the diagram, and is the same for both joints. 
 
38 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 The bevels for lower wreath are found at C for upper 
 joint, and at D, Fig. 42, for the lower joint. 
 
 The plan of this stair for which the rail is intended 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 39 
 
 is shown at Fig. 9, which, upon examination, will be 
 found to be of a type often found in our old colonial 
 buildings. 
 
 We will now deal with a flight of stairs having seven 
 winders forming a half circle, with flyers above and 
 
 below. 
 
 Fig. 45 shows the ground plan and elevation of 
 risers, the pitch-lines and development of tangents for 
 face mould; the upper and lower pitch being the 
 same, only one 
 face mould is 
 required. The 
 mould issimply 
 reversed in ap- 
 plication, as 
 shown in Figs. 
 46 and 47. 
 
 Further ex- 
 planations of 
 these figures 
 
 appear unnecessary, as the lines and applications are 
 similar to those applied in previous examples, so that 
 a reference to previous illustrations and the descrip- 
 tions and explanations attached will give a clear insight 
 into the method of lining out the present examples. 
 
 The next examples show a method of laying down 
 the rail for a flight of circular stairs. Fig. 48 shows 
 the plan with cylinder and risers cutting around the 
 center of rail and tangents. The joints are located at 
 A, B, C and D, making four pieces; the two wreaths 
 from A to C are alike, and only one mould is 
 required. 
 
 The rail is in one pitch from E to A. Fig. 49 
 shows the elevation of steps and risers for first wreath, 
 
 F%. 47 
 
40 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 and Fig. 50 the landing wreath; these are drawn in 
 the manner as shown in previous examples, making 
 
 the width of treads to correspond with the points 
 where the risers cut the tangents in Fig. 48. These 
 elevations also give the exact height as shown; the first 
 wreath in Fig. 49 is lifted for the newel, and the land- 
 ing wreath in Fig. 48 runs half a rise above the floor. 
 The wreaths AB and BC simply rise from risers, 
 
FIRST METHOD 
 
 41 
 
 and are drawn as shown in Fig. 48. Figs. 50, 51 and 52 
 show the face moulds and application of the bevels, in 
 the same manner as explained in previous illustrations. 
 
42 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 We have now completed the treatise as first 
 intended, and hav^e shown how handrails may be laid 
 out and made for eleven different styles of stairs, and 
 from the rules given the student should be able to lay 
 out a rail for almost any kind of rail he may be called 
 upon to construct. The principles involved in this 
 method of handralling are well described in the earlier 
 part of this work, and we would advise the young 
 reader to again and again go over them, and produce 
 the lines on a good-sized drawing board until he 
 becomes familiar with the methods. 
 
 We have already given diagrams of the eleven kinds 
 of stairs, and have now shown how handrails may be 
 built over them, and it is to be hoped these efforts 
 have not been in vain, but have been closely followed 
 with profit to the student. 
 
 Some of the lettering in the cuts does not show up as 
 well as would be liked, but the points referred to in the 
 descriptions given may readily be found, particularly, 
 if the student enlarges the diagrams to full working 
 size — which he should do, when working out the prob- 
 lems. 
 
 END OF FIRST METHOD 
 
SECOND METHOD 
 
 The method of laying out handrails shown in this 
 section differs somewhat from the method shown in 
 the previous section, and has some advantages the 
 former does not possess. As this little book, how- 
 ever, is intended for ins.truction and not to advance 
 the interest of any particular method, the editor and 
 compiler has thought fit to present to the reader several 
 methods — all of them of the simplest sort — in order 
 that he may find something he can utilize in each and 
 all of them. 
 
 Before building a handrail it is quite necessary to 
 have the stairs, and as the "handrailer" is supposed to 
 know how to construct the body of the stairs, we shall 
 content ourselves with making a few remarks concern- 
 ing the height of riser and width of tread. 
 
 After determining the height of the riser from the 
 "story rod," the right proportion of tread must be 
 found. Sometimes steps are arranged so that it is 
 easier for a man to go up "two at a time" than to walk 
 up in the proper manner. The reason is both tread 
 and riser are made small. When a riser is reduced 
 the tread must be increased; and the contrary, when 
 the riser is increased, the tread must be reduced in 
 width. Joiners do not often break this rule, but 
 masons very often do, notably in ^teps leading to and 
 from railway stations. A simple rule may be given 
 for finding a suitable proportion. 
 
 Take any suitable step as a standard step, that is to 
 
 43 
 
44 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 say, if you know of a staircase which is comfortable 
 and easy to walk up, take it as a standard to gauge 
 others by. Suppose you have a riser given, and 
 require the width of a suitable tread, make use of the 
 following proportion: 
 
 As the given riser : standard riser :: standard tread : 
 required tread : 
 
 If the tread is given and the riser required, then: 
 
 As the given tread : standard tread :: standard riser : 
 required riser. 
 
 To work out an example, suppose lo-inch tread 
 and 7-inch riser be taken as a suitable step. Let 6 inches 
 be the given riser; then by substituting the value of 
 treads and risers for the names we have, as 6" : /" :: lO" : 
 the required tread. This gives \^ or iif" for the size 
 of a tread. Nicholson gives as a standard a tread of 12" 
 to a riser of 5J". Working out the example given by 
 this proportion we get 11 instead of iif"; either of 
 these sizes will be an agreeable step. 
 
 A rough and ready rule for the usual sizes of treads 
 and risers is to make 2 risers and i tread equal to 24 
 inches. 
 
 Before going into the working part of stair-building 
 it must be understood that great care ought to be 
 taken in placing the staircase in any building, and, 
 therefore, staircases ought to be described and 
 accounted for justly, when the plans of a building are 
 made, and for the want of this, sometimes unpardon- 
 able errors are made — such as having a little blind 
 staircase in a large house, and on the other hand a 
 large and spacious staircase in a small house. In plac- 
 ing staircases the utmost care ought to be taken, it 
 being a difficulty to find a place convenient for them, 
 that will not at the same time prejudice the rest of the 
 
SECOND METHOD 45 
 
 building. Commonly the stairs are placed in an 
 angle, wing, or middle of the front. In every stair- 
 case openings are required — first, the opening leading 
 thereto; second, the window or windows that may 
 give light to them; third, their landings. First, the 
 opening leading to the staircase should be so placed 
 that most of the building may be seen before coming 
 to the stairs, and in such a manner that it may be easy 
 for any person to find them. Second, the window 
 must be placed in the middle of them, whereby 
 the whole of the stairs may be lighted. Third, 
 that the landing should be large and spacious 
 for the convenient entering of the rooms — in a word, 
 staircases should be spacious, light, and easy to 
 ascend. The height of risers should be from 6 to 7 
 inches, the breadth of tread not less than 9 inches, and 
 the length about 3 feet — the rule laid down for the 
 height and breadth of steps. Workmen are, however, 
 not to be so strictly tied to those rules, as shown 
 above, as not to vary in the least from them. 
 They must endeavor to make all the steps of the same 
 staircase of an equal height and breadth. To do this 
 they must first consider the height of the room, and 
 also the width or compass they have to carry up their 
 stairs. To find the height of each step they ought first 
 to propose the height of each step, and by that pro- 
 posed height divide the whole height of the room, 
 which done, the quotient will show the number of 
 steps. If there is a remainder, then take the quotient 
 for the number of steps, and by the number divide the 
 whole height of the room, and the quotient will be 
 the exact height of each step. 
 
 Example: Suppose the height of the room is 9 feet 
 3 inches, and you propose your riser to be about 6 
 
46 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 inches; bring the height of your room into inches and 
 divide by 6 inches. You have i8 steps and 3 inches 
 over, therefore, take 18 for the number of steps and by 
 it divide 3 inches. The quotient will be 6^gj or 6|, 
 which must be the exact height of each riser. You 
 find the breadth of steps in a like manner. 
 
 Having determined the height and breadth of your 
 steps you then make a pitch-board which is a triangle 
 of unequal sides, one being equal to the breadth of 
 step, the other equal to the height, thus giving the 
 rake of stair. 
 
 Pig^ 2. ^'^S' I (diagram A) is the 
 
 j^— _ > \ I . pitch-board. Fig. 2 is a 
 
 ^ ■ • ^ ' templet about 18 inches 
 
 long, 2^ wide, which is used 
 
 to form a stop or gauge 
 
 f for the pitch-board when 
 
 Fig. '6, 
 
 Diagram A. you are Setting up your 
 
 steps. Fig. 3 shows the templet and pitch-board ap- 
 plied to plank intended for the wall string. 
 
 In the formation of winding stairs much care must 
 be exercised in laying them out. The following dia- 
 grams show a stair with six flyers and six winders, with 
 instructions to lay out and set up the strings. 
 
 It must always be understood that you must lay 
 down a plan of your winders, the full size the pitch- 
 board will give the flyers. Diagram B is plan of 
 winders. Fig. i is the first wall string. Set up the 
 first three steps with your pitch-board, then set up one 
 riser; take the width of first winder on plan and mark 
 it on the string square with the riser; then set up 
 another riser and take the width of your other winder 
 up to the angle, and mark that the same way. This 
 angle winder is called the kite winder. You must then 
 
SECOND METHOD 
 
 47 
 
 allow the string about J of an inch longer for a tongue 
 to go into the cross-string; then cut the string off at 
 right angles with the step and allow about 6 inches 
 from the step upward to form the top easing to carry 
 
 out the winder. You will see that a piece must be 
 glued on the under side of string. I have shown eas- 
 ing at top, and also shown ramp at bottom to receive 
 base, etc. 
 
 Fig. 2 is the cross-string. Always glue up cross- 
 string tor stairs of this description 14 inches wide, and 
 then make a line, AB; from that line square off the 
 end of string. There is no particular rake for the line, 
 it being marked at pleasure. After squaring the end 
 from the line you must set in the thickness of the 
 
48 COMMON-vSENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 risers and treads as shown in Fig i, then set in the 
 other halt of kite winder, then set up a riser square 
 with the winder, set up the other winders and the half 
 winder square with the end; then allow for tongue, 
 etc. There will be enough stuff to form all easements. 
 
 Fig. 3 shows the other wall string having half a 
 winder and a whole winder and three flyers, and risers 
 that carry up to the landing. The string will be set out 
 similar to the first, only the up-risers must not be for- 
 gotten. Groove the winder end of the string to receive 
 tongue of cross-string; also glue a piece of stuff on to 
 carry out the winder and form the easements. When 
 setting out strings the pitch-board is the face of riser 
 and top of tread, so allow for thickness of riser in, and 
 thickness of tread down, and a little more for wedging 
 as shown. C shows the tongues and grooves, F the 
 wedging. The general depth for "housing" or groov- 
 ing is half an inch. In all cases use glue up the joints. 
 
 In Fig. I the string is not shown finished, but this 
 is done in Fig. 3. The strings are prepared first as in 
 Fig. I, and after the steps are glued up, rounded, and 
 the cove worked on them, mortises are made for them 
 in the string as shown at Fig. 3. 
 
 "There is nothing new under the sun," said the wise 
 king of old — not even in handrailing, though much 
 has been written on the subject since the celebrated 
 Peter Nicholson pointed out the true theory of laying 
 out this sort of work; yet, notwithstanding all the 
 knowledge acquired since Peter Nicholson wrote, the 
 art of handrailing has been a sealed book to nine- 
 tenths of otherwise good joiners, and to-day it is often 
 difificult to find a man who is not a professional hand- 
 railer, who is willing to undertake the building of a 
 rail over a circular staircase. This distrust, or per- 
 
SECOND METHOD 49 
 
 haps lack of knowledge, exists even among the best and 
 most competent workmen, and is a great retarding 
 factor which ought not to exist. 
 
 In order to assist those who are desirous of studying 
 this beautiful art I will submit such problems and 
 their solutions as I may think will be of the greatest 
 service, and which I may be able to select from the 
 material at my disposal. 
 
 The proper construction of stairs is an all-important 
 part of house-building to both architects and owners, 
 as their daily and hourly use affords comfort and ease, 
 or tires and distresses, as the case may be, according 
 to the accuracy with which the true principle of stair- 
 building is observed. Strength and solidity are also 
 important factors, especially in stairs subjected to 
 severe usage in the passage of safes, heavy trunks and 
 weighty packages, as in cases like that in France, 
 where, by the falling of a stone staircase a short time 
 ago, the lives of scores of unsuspecting people were 
 destroyed and a large number maimed and crippled 
 for life as a result of a defective construction and the 
 overconfidence of a thousand human beings who 
 risked their lives upon a thing of beauty which col- 
 lapsed from overloading. 
 
 I think there are not more than three flights of stairs 
 of similar construction to that just alluded to in the 
 United States, the most notable and prominent of 
 which is in the State House at Columbus, Ohio. Such 
 stairs are supposed to be self-supporting, the wide 
 ends of the steps being inserted in the walls of the 
 stairway, and the cylinder ends of intermediate parts 
 lapped and cut, locking the respective steps together, 
 so as to provide a continuous strength to the entire 
 construction. 
 
so 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRATLTNG 
 
 The following diagram C shows a very easy way ot 
 getting out stair-rails over cylinders, i-i-i being the 
 face of cylinder, 2 the center of baluster from which 
 the tangents must be derived, and is, in fact, one of 
 the most important points in the ground plan, for the 
 reason that the rail is supported all around the cylin- 
 der on the top and center of the balusters. 
 
 DIAGRAM C. A RAIL AROUND A CYLINDER 
 
 Commence by making the tangent as shown; place 
 half of the rail each side of 2-3 3; draw level tangent 
 right and left indifferently; take the comoass. stand 
 
SECOND METHOD 51 
 
 on left, describe a curve from the spring line at 2, to 
 cut level tangent at 5; do the same on opposite side. 
 
 The tangent being unfolded, set up the highest — say 
 from 4 to 6 on the left; connect 6 and 5, which will 
 give the tangent in the pitch; square out from 6 to 8, 
 and stand compass in 6; open to 7, the center of 
 cylinder; draw curve, cutting at 8; continue line 8 
 to 9, parallel with pitch 6-5; 8-9 then becomes the 
 place of the elliptic curve covering the pitch. The 
 breadth of rail in pitch is next to be found, as shown 
 by the illustration, carried up from 3-8, cutting pitch- 
 line. 
 
 Now to find the pin points to draw the elliptic curve, 
 take the semi of the major axis (or half the length) 
 from 9 to 10, place the compass in 12, and cut the 
 major axis at XX, — XX being pin points for the out- 
 side curves. 
 
 Take the distance 9-1 1 in compass and stand in 13 
 and cut 0-0 on the major axis, which are the points to 
 draw the inside curves by. The bevels are shown and 
 how applied on the face of the moulds. 
 
 The cutting and standing up is explained as follows: 
 Cut on line from 4 to 5 on either side, and from 5 to 
 13; from 13 to points marked V, V, V; from V to 6; 
 from 6 to points marked V',V',V',V',V',V',V'; from V 
 to 5; hinge on lines so marked and stand in place. 
 
 This is a very simple solution of what often con- 
 fronts the young workman when building his first 
 handrail. This, of course, is intended for a straight 
 stair having a small well hole and landing on a level 
 floor. 
 
 Problem. — To obtain a wreath for half-space land- 
 ing: When the distance between the centers of rails 
 is equal to, or more than, the width of a step, and 
 
52 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 the risers placed half a step from the center of rail at 
 the crown of well, the wreaths for this class of stair- 
 cases are of the simplest kind, being beveled at one 
 end only, as the tangent line across the back of the 
 
 Fig. 1, 
 
 Fiff. 6. h ' • " 
 
 fetMflW^ CWf _ 
 
 ^\ 
 
 I- 
 
 *A^ — i 
 
 DIAGRAM D. HALF-SPACE RAILING 
 
 well is a straight level line. Fig. I, diagram D, 
 shows a large well with the risers 2 and 3 placed half a 
 step from B and C; these four steps are shown in 
 section at Fig. 2. Draw the center lines of rails i, 
 
SECOND METHOD 53 
 
 2, 3 and 4, and they will meet at A, which is over A, at 
 Fig. i; or the risers at Fig. i may be in any position, 
 so that 2B added to 3C equals the width of a step; if 
 the distance between the center of rails is equal to a 
 tread the risers 2 and 3 would, of course, be at the 
 spring line. At Fig. 6 is shown a wide well with the 
 risers 2 and 3 half a step from B and C, with the radius 
 of center line of rail equal to half a step as 2F, or 
 more than half a step as GE. The wreaths may be 
 jointed at A, the face moulds for these wreaths would 
 be drawn as at Fig. 3, and the straight length AE or 
 AD at Fig. 6 drawn square from E and F at Fig. 3, 
 and worked to the bevel at Fig. 5 and out of the 
 same thickness of plank. The center of the rail on 
 the landing would be equal to half a riser higher than 
 the center of the rail plumb with the risers. The 
 wreath at the start of stairs from a landing is drawn 
 as at Fig. 3, and then turned the other side up. Fig. 
 3: Mark the plan of wreath and the center line, BC; 
 draw the lines AB and AC square to each other; draw 
 AD with the pitch-board; draw ordinates I, 2, 3 at any 
 distance apart parallel to AC; draw the perpendicular 
 lines, I, 4; draw the lines 4, 5, 6 square to AD; apply 
 the lengths, i, 2, 3, to 4, 5, 6, and draw the face 
 mould through the points 5, 6; make the shank, JG, 
 about 9 inches long parallel to AD. Fig. 4: Draw HI 
 equal in length to outside the plan of rail, HI, at Fig. 
 3; make ID equal to BD, at Fig. 3; make BD and 
 HA each half the thickness of rail square to the pitch; 
 draw AC with the pitch-board, and draw BC parallel 
 to HI; divide AC and CB into the same number of 
 equal parts, and join the points 1,1 and 2, 2, etc., which 
 will give the top curve, and gauge the thickness of rail 
 from the top curve. 
 
54 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 To square the wreaths: First, cut them out square 
 and joint the ends square. Second, center the joints, 
 apply the bevel IFE at Fig. 3 (which is set to the top 
 corner of the pitch-board), through the center of the 
 top joint, and mark the square section of rail, as at 
 Fig. 5. Third, apply the face mould on the top of the 
 wreath and slide it up the shank until E, at Fig. 3, 
 comes to E, at Fig. 5, and mark it; apply the mould 
 on the under side until F, at Fig. 3, comes to F, at 
 Fig. 5, and mark it. Fourth, set a pair of calipers to 
 the width of the rail, and move one arm along the 
 mark made by the face mould on the under side of 
 wreath, and the other arm will mark, very nearly, 
 what to take from the inside as at A, A, A, Fig. 5, and 
 cut it out with a band saw; then gauge the outside 
 from the inside with the calipers. Next work the 
 top, gauge an equal portion of the top and bottom of 
 the shank, as at Fig. 5, and lap Fig. 4, falling mould 
 around the outside; place the shank in the bank, screw 
 up to the right pitch and work the top level across in a 
 direction toward the center of the well around the 
 curve; apply a square to the top with the stock plumb 
 on the inside. Gauge the bottom from the top. The 
 top wreath is worked to the same hand and turned 
 over before doweling or moulding. To joint the 
 straight rails apply the length IG, at Fig. 3, from C 
 and D at the spring line of well, at Fig. 2, to B and E. 
 
 Problem. — To obtain a wreath for a quarter-space 
 landing: For small wells with the riser, A and B, 
 less than half a step from the point C, where the 
 space for the steps is confined for room. 
 
 Fig. I, diagram E, shows the center line of rail and 
 the plan of stairs. 
 
 Fig. 2: Draw the tread, DE, and riser, EA; make 
 
SECOND METHOD 
 
 55 
 
 ACB equal to ACB, at Fig. i; draw the riser, BF, the 
 tread, FG, and the riser, GH; draw DA and CM; draw 
 HF to M; draw MJ so that the part LJ will measure 5 
 inches; mark the joint, K, 2 inches from L; make Jl 
 equal to JK, from I to K draw the dotted lines square 
 to IJ and JK, a.iH from the point where they intersect 
 
 DIAGRAM E. QUARTER-SPACE RAILING 
 
 describe the easing; joint the top rail square at D 
 about 4 inches from F; draw LNO. 
 
 Fig. 3: Mark the quadrant and the center line, BC; 
 draw the square, ABCD; set up BE and BF equal to 
 NM and CF, Fig. 2; draw AE, and draw FG parallel 
 
56 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 to AE; draw AH square to AE from G. With the 
 length, GC, cut the line at H, and draw GH. 
 
 Draw ordinates i, 2, 3 parallel to GC; draw the per- 
 pendicular lines I, 4, and the lines 4, 5, 6 parallel to 
 G H; apply ID from J to K, and draw the tangents 
 HK and KF; make HO and EP equal to LK and FP, 
 Fig. 2; make the joints square to the tangents. 
 
 Apply the lengths, i, 2, 3 to 4, 5, 6, and draw the 
 face mould through the points 5, 6; draw the line 
 4HQ; make HQ equal H5, and from Q5U and R draw 
 the shanks parallel to the tangents; continue GC and 
 BD to meet at Y; from B describe the arcs LN; draw 
 
 DIAGRAM F. FOR ANY SIZE CYLINDER 
 
 NY, and BNY is the bevel for the bottom end; make 
 BM equal BE; draw MY; from B describe the arc, 
 WV; draw VG, and BVG is the bevel for the top end. 
 
SECOND METHOD 57 
 
 Cut the wreath out square to the plank and a little 
 full in the narrow part. Apply the mould and square 
 up the wreath, taking an equal portion off the top and 
 bottom, both inside and outside the wreath at the line 
 ST, Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. I, diagram F, shows a better plan of stairs for 
 a large well than Fig. 4, as there are two balusters on 
 the landing, the same distance to the centers as those 
 on the steps, the wall bracket and nosing are much 
 larger, and the steps are not so confined at the well 
 end. By this method the easing on the straight rail 
 for small wells, where the radius of center line of rail 
 is less than half a step (as in the last diagram), is dis- 
 pensed with. 
 
 Fig. 2: Draw DEF equal to DEA, Fig. i; draw FA, 
 a riser; draw ABC equal to ACB, Fig. i; draw 
 the riser, BG, the tread, GH, and the riser, HI; draw 
 DA and GI. Joint the straight rails square at'K and 
 L about 4 inches from J and G; draw the falling line, 
 KL; draw EN; draw NO parallel to AB; draw KQ 
 square to AK, and equal to half the bevel line, NC, at 
 Fig.^ 4. 
 
 Fig. 3: Mark the quadrant and the center line, BC; 
 draw the square, ABCD; set up BE equal to OM, Fig. 
 2; make AG equal to AC; draw .EG and GC; draw AH 
 square to GE from G. With length, GC, cut the line at 
 H, and draw GH; draw the ordinates i, 2, 3 parallel 
 to GC; draw the perpendicular lines, i, 4; and draw 
 the lines 4, 5, 6 parallel to GH. 
 
 Apply AD from I to J, and draw the tangents, JH 
 and JE; mark A to P, a riser, and PM, a tread; draw 
 MA; draw AO square to MA; draw OH; continue the 
 lines HO and JI to meet at R, and draw RE; make 
 HF and EK equal NK or ML, Fig. 2; draw the joint 
 
58 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 F parallel to HR, and the joint K parallel to RE; 
 apply the lengths I, 2, 3 to 4, 5, 6, and draw the face 
 mould through the points 5, 6; from A describe the 
 arc, LN; draw NC, and ANC is the bevel for both 
 ends. 
 
 Cut the wreath out square to the plank and a little 
 full in the narrow part; cut the joints at first square to 
 the plank and the length, PQ, Fig. 2, longer at both 
 ends than the mould; apply the bevels and the mould, 
 and work the inside and outside of the wreath as 
 described previously. Now cut the bottom joint to 
 the bevel NKQ, Fig. 2, applied to the beveled sides of 
 the wreath, with the bevel stock held parallel to the 
 tangents on the wreath and apply the same. 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 This method is one much used by English and Ger- 
 man handrailers in Europe, and as it is based on the 
 system formulated by the late Robert Riddell, it is 
 also practiced by many handrailers in America. The 
 system has been very much improved and simplified 
 by Mr. John Wilson, and with the exception of a few 
 additions and corrections it is his version of the sys- 
 tem that is herewith reproduced, and I am sure the 
 student will find the matter as set forth in these pages 
 clear and easy to understand, as everything of an 
 abstruse character has been eliminated. 
 
 The upper portion of the fence formed on the out- 
 side of the stairs is the handrail, to assist in ascent and 
 descent of the stairs, and also for protection. It is evi- 
 dent that the rail should follow the line of nosings and 
 at a height of 2' 9" to the top side of the rail from the 
 tread at the nosing, measured perpendicularly in line 
 with the face of the riser. 
 
 In the construction of handrails the chief difficulty 
 is in the wreaths, where the rail is of double curvature. 
 Simple curves in either plan or elevation will cause no 
 difficulty. 
 
 Fig. I shows the plan of a rail for a level landing 
 stairs with the risers landing and starting in the spring- 
 ing, the radius of the center line of rail half the width 
 of tread. 
 
 Having the plan and center line drawn, the wreath 
 being in two pieces and one face mould answering for 
 
 59 
 
COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILINO 
 
 both pieces, to draw the face mould. First draw the 
 joint line CD, Fig. i, then draw the tangent lines, AB 
 
 Joint* 
 
 being the center line produced, and BD at right 
 angles with the joint line. AB being equal to half the 
 
THIRD METHOD 6i 
 
 width of tread, the rail in coming up over this distance 
 would rise the height of half a riser, causing the line 
 BD to be horizontal; where one of the tangent lines is 
 horizontal it is at once used as the directing ordinate. 
 Then produce BD, and parallel with it draw lines from 
 each side of the rail at D; and from the springing at 
 A draw XY at right angles to BC, and place the pitch- 
 board as shown against the riser line. Draw the under 
 side of rail, set off half the depth of rail and draw the 
 center line. Where it cuts the line from BD, will be the 
 center of the section on the landing. Draw the section 
 as shown and through the top corner draw V^T. From 
 where the lines projected from the plan cut this line. 
 Draw lines at right angles. On each of these lines mark 
 off the corresponding distances in plan, measuring 
 from XY. Through the points draw A'B', CD', and 
 A'C, B'D'; CD' is the major axis line, and A'C the 
 minor. The lines on each side of D' giv^e the semi-major 
 axis for the inside and outside curves for the mould, 
 and on the minor the width of mould is the same as in 
 the plan. 
 
 Draw the curves with trammel or string and pins. 
 The shank may be made any convenient length. 
 
 Referring to the section at the line VT it will be 
 seen that if the arrises of the rail were required, the 
 dotted line through the bottom corner would give the 
 least thickness that the rail could be got out of, and 
 the dotted lines at right angles to VT the width at the 
 wide end. It will be seen that if the rail has to be got 
 out of this thickness of stuff to keep the proper height, 
 a slab will have to come off both top and bottom sides 
 of the shank. 
 
 Fig. 2: Having cut the wreath out square to the 
 size of face mould, allowing extra width at the wide 
 
COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILINO 
 
 end if required, the piece is planed true and the 
 mould applied, and the tangent lines drawn on as 
 
 shown by the dotted 
 lines. The joints are 
 made square to these 
 lines. Mark the cen- 
 ter of the piece at 
 each end. With a 
 bevel set to the long 
 edge and riser side 
 of the pitch-board, 
 draw the line through 
 the center square over a line on each face from this line 
 as shown. This gives the new tangent lines and the 
 distance the mould has to slide. The tangent lines on 
 the face mould are held to these lines. Then mark for 
 the stuff to be cut off, apply the mould on the other 
 side and tack it on, working off the superfluous stuff to 
 the lines and edge of the mould. 
 
 The figure represents the wreath worked into 
 cylindrical form and ready for squaring, and the 
 shaded portions show the slabs that have to come off. 
 In practice this wreath is not easy to mould, owing to 
 the rise beyond the springing on the inside. 
 
 Fig. 3 shows a better wreath. Draw the square sec- 
 tion of the rail, and through the top corner draw the 
 top side of rail for the lower portion, and through the 
 bottom corner draw the under side of the top portion. 
 Draw lines to the depth of the rail, and from the inter- 
 section of the two under sides, draw the horizontal 
 line, and mark half the width of tread on it, measur- 
 ing from the intersection. Through the point draw 
 the perpendicular which gives the position of the 
 risers' landing and starting; in this case they are in the 
 
PHIRD METHOD 
 
 springing of the 
 well. Project lines 
 drawn from the 
 springing and the 
 section to com- 
 plete the plan. 
 The face mould is 
 drawn the same as 
 Fig. I. 
 
64 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig. 4 shows the wreath piece cut out and worked 
 mto cylindrical form ready for squaring, the face 
 mould being applied the same as in Fig. 2. The face 
 mould gives the line for squaring the top off, and a 
 better curve is obtained. It will be seen at Fig. 3 that 
 
THIRD METHOD 65 
 
 the shank is not in the center of the stuff. The shaded 
 portion shows the slab to come off one side. 
 
 Fig. 5 shows the face mould for a large well with the 
 risers in the springing. Project lines from the plan and 
 draw the section at the proper height above the land- 
 ing. Draw the line from the under side of the section to 
 meet the under side of rail coming up. Draw the line 
 from the joint to corner of the section. This gives the 
 inclination of the plank, and the parallel line on the 
 top side, the thickness; the bevel at X gives the butt 
 joint, and the bevel at Y for sliding the mould. The 
 face mould is drawn the same as Fig. i. 
 
 Fig. 6: The quadrant BD is the center line of rail. 
 AB, AD are the tangent lines, the other two the 
 springing lines, BC and CD, which are at right angles 
 to the tangent lines, and meeting in the center C, from 
 where the center line of rail is drawn. Then ABCD 
 is the plan of a square prism. Two of its faces are 
 tangent to the center line, the other two are at right 
 angles to the tangent faces, and their intersection is the 
 axis of the cylinder containing the center line of rail. 
 With the side AD as a ground line draw an elevation 
 of that face, AD, EH. Draw the line HI as the eleva- 
 tion of the line AD, and the pitch at which that face 
 of the prism is cut. With A as center, turn AB into the 
 vertical plane; draw B'l, which is the elevation of 
 AB, and the pitch that the face is cut by. To deter- 
 mine the horizontal trace of the cutting plane that 
 contains these two lines, produce HI to meet the 
 ground line, which is one point in HT, and B 
 being in the horizontal plane is another point. Draw 
 HT through these points. Having the horizontal trace 
 HT and the plan D and elevation H of a point that 
 the plane passes through, the inclination and section 
 
66 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 can be readily obtained. At right angles to HT draw 
 X2, Y2 through the center C; by doing this the line 
 that shows the true inclination will also contain the 
 major axis of the elliptical section. Parallel to HT 
 
THIRl) METHOD 
 
 67 
 
 draw lines from ACD, and on the line from D set up 
 the height 3, 3' taken from HD; then draw the line 
 through I, 3', which is the true inclination of the 
 plane. From i, 2', C, 3' draw lines at right angles to 
 I, 3'; then make iB" equal to iB, 2'A' equal to 2A, C 
 minor to C major, 3'D' to 3D. Join A', B", C, D'. This 
 is the section of the prism, and to be correct A'B" 
 must equal B'l, and A'D', HI. To draw the section of 
 the cylinder continue the center line of rail to meet 
 X2, Y2 at 4; draw 4, .4' parallel to 3, 3'; then from C 
 to 4 is the semi-major axis, the semi-minor being 
 drawn. Draw the semi-ellipse which will pass through 
 B" and D'. 
 
 Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the prism to assist the 
 reader to follow what is done at Fig. i, in order to 
 obtain the necessary bevels, that is, the angles the cut- 
 ting plane makes with the vertical faces of the prism. 
 A, B, C, D is the bottom face, and E, F, G, H the top 
 face, and BI, HI the pitches the two faces are cut by. 
 Produce the upper pitch to meet the ground line, AD, 
 
68 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 produced through this point and B. Draw the hoi i- 
 zontal trace. To find the angle between the plane and 
 this face, with A as center draw a circle tangent to the 
 pitch-line; and to cut the perpendicular AE, draw the 
 
 / > 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 69 
 
 Pitch. 
 
 line from the intersection to B, and in the angle is 
 seen the bevel, B and D both being the same distance 
 from A (see D, Fig. 6). Referring again to Fig. 7 it 
 will be seen that there is a second horizontal plane 
 containing the top face of the prism and the pitch BI 
 produced to meet the edge. EE produced is a point in 
 the horizontal trace in that plane, and the dotted line 
 through H is the horizontal trace. Then with E as cen- 
 ter draw the circle tangent BI, and cutting the perpen- 
 dicular AE, draw the line from the intersection to H, 
 and in the angle is seen the bevel between the plane 
 and this face. It will be seen that the bevel is found 
 the same as at Fig. 6. 
 
 Fig. 8 shows the tangent making an obtuse angle. 
 
 Fig. 9 shows 
 the t a n g e n t'''>v X ^^9' ^' 
 
 making an acute 
 angle, the con- 
 struction and 
 lettering being 
 the same as for 
 Fig. 6, with the 
 exception that 
 both bevels are 
 found on one 
 horizontal 
 plane. The bev- 
 els are found on 
 the principle of 
 finding the in- 
 clination of an 
 oblique plane to the vertical plane of projection, given 
 in all books on solid geometry. 
 
 Fig. 10 is a sketch of the block given in plan at 
 
70 
 
 COMiMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig. 9 to show more clear- 
 ly how the bevel for the 
 lower pitch is obtained. 
 
 Fig. II is the plan of a 
 rail for a level landing, 
 the risers landing and 
 starting in the springing 
 of the well. Draw the 
 center line of rail and the 
 joint line CD. Draw the 
 tangent lines AB and EF, 
 which are the center lines 
 of the straight parts pro- 
 duced. The line AE is 
 drawn at right angles to the joint line CD, and with the 
 springing lines BC and CF forming two squares. 
 
 13V 
 
 
 
 ^ — 
 
 ^^.^^ 
 
 
 
 
 Ky 
 
 
 
 ^\. t 
 
 / 
 
 
 / 
 
 ^ 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 t 
 
 b 
 
 
 e 
 
 
 f 
 
 
 
 
 Fig.W. 
 
 
 . 
 
 
THIRD METHOD 71 
 
 To draw the development of these tangent lines, 
 with A as center turn AB around, and with E as 
 center turn EF around, erect perpendiculars from 
 B, A, D, E, F; then place the pitch-board with the 
 risers to the perpendicular springing line at B, and 
 draw the under side of rail from where this cuts the 
 perpendicular. Draw the horizontal line (marked land- 
 ing) w^here it cuts the perpendicular. From F set up the 
 height of a riser. Place the pitch-board, P, as shown 
 and draw the under side of rail for the top portion. 
 Set off half the depth of rail at both top and bottom and 
 draw the center lines. Where they cut the perpendic- 
 ulars from B and F draw the horizontal lines, and 
 through the points where they cut the perpendicu- 
 lars from A and E draw the pitch across the well. 
 Through the point where this pitch cuts the perpen- 
 dicular from D draw the horizontal line. The dis- 
 tance between these horizontal lines gives the height 
 the rail rises in coming up from B to D and from 
 D to F. In this system the heights are taken from 
 spring-line to spring-line, the shank ends are the 
 tangent lines produced, which may be made any 
 length. 
 
 To draw the bevels, with G as a center on the hori- 
 zontal line draw the circle tangent to the center line, 
 and to cut the perpendicular from E and from the 
 intersection, draw the line to H, and in the angles is 
 seen the bevel for the shank end. Then with I as center 
 draw the circle tangent to the pitch across the well 
 and turn it around to cut the perpendicular above I. 
 From the intersection draw the line to F, and in the 
 angle is seen the bevel for the center joint. Set off half 
 the width of rail on the horizontal lines and project 
 them up to the bevels. Measuring along the top edge 
 
12 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 of the bevel gives half the width of face mould at the 
 end the bevel is for. 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 Fig. 12 is the face mould, the square, ABCD, being 
 drawn the same as Fig. ii. Having drawn the center 
 line the next step is to determine the horizontal trace 
 or directing ordinate, for all ordinates must be parallel 
 to this line. 
 
 It will be seen that the center line at Fig. ii is 
 drawn through the perpendicular AA' to meet the 
 horizontal line at T; then A"T is the distance measured 
 on AB produced, at Fig. I2, that gives the point in 
 HT or directing ordinate, and D being in the hori 
 zontal plane is another point in the trace. Then draw 
 HT or ordinate, and draw XY at right angles with it 
 through the center C; then parallel with HT draw lines 
 from ABC. On the line from B set up the height 3-3' 
 taken from Fig. 11, draw the line through 1-3', draw 
 
THIRD METHOD 73 
 
 lines from I, 2', C\ 3' at right angles to 1-3', and on these 
 lines mark off the distances taken from the plan. 
 Measuring from XY, iD', 2'A'C'M'3'B', join D'A', and 
 make the joint D' square with this line. Join A'B', and 
 produce it to any convenient length. Make the joint 
 square with A'B', and set off the width on each side taken 
 from the b( vel for the shank S at Fig. i. Draw lines from 
 D' to C ai d through B'C, which is the springing line. 
 
 To draw the curve for the inside and outside of the 
 rail, contii ue the center line from B to 4 in XY. Then 
 set off hal" the width of the rail on each side of 4, 
 project the se to meet 1-3', as shown by the dotted 
 lines. The e two points give the semi-major axis for 
 both curves measured from C; CM is the minor axis. 
 Set off half t he width of rail on each side of M ; this gives 
 the semi-m.Iiior axis for both curves. Draw the curves 
 with a trammel or string and pins, which to be correct 
 must pass through the points on the line C'B'; and the 
 tangent lines on the face mould, B'A' and A'D', must 
 be the same length as B'A' and A'D' in the develop- 
 ment, Fig. II. 
 
 In practice, as soon as the line 1-3' is drawn with all 
 the points on it, the face mould is drawn on a thin 
 piece of stuff with a gauge line run on at a convenient 
 distance from the edge. This gauge line represents the 
 line 1-3'. All the points on 1-3 are marked on the 
 edge of the board and squared over on the face, and 
 the distances marked from the gauge line and the face 
 mould drawn same as Fig. 2. Then cut it out to the 
 lines and square over on the other side the tangent, 
 spring and minor axis lines. 
 
 Fig. 13 shows the wreath cut out square through the 
 plank, planed true, and the mould applied, the tangent 
 lines TT piicked off and the joints marked. The 
 
74 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 joints are made square to these lines. Square over the 
 lines on the ends, mark the center of the stuff on these 
 
 lines, then with the bevel for each end, draw the lines 
 BB through the center of the stuff. Square over these 
 lines on the face on both sides as seen by the dotted 
 lines on the top side. 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 75 
 
 Fig. 14 shows the face mould in position with the tan- 
 gent lines held to the corresponding line on the wreath. 
 The etched part shows the amount to be taken off. 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 P 
 
 i 
 
 \'^ 
 
 
 D 
 
 / 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 / 
 
 3 
 
 f 
 
 r 
 
 C Yig, 15. 
 
 R8 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 15 is the plan of a rail for a quarter-space land- 
 ing, the risers' landing and starting being placed in the 
 springing of the well. The radius of the center line of 
 rail being equal to half a tread, the pitch-board gives 
 the inclination of both tangents. If a square block be 
 cut with two of its adjacent sides to the same pitch, it 
 will be seen that a line joining the two opposite 
 corners is horizontal. This being known, it is unneces- 
 sary to unfold the tangents. 
 
 Fig. 16. Draw a square, ABCD, same as the square 
 ABCD, at Fig. i ; draw one diagonal, which is the direct 
 ing ordinate; draw the line XY at right angles with 
 
76 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 it; and draw lines D and B parallel to the ordinate. 
 Referring to Fig. 15 it will be seen that the rail in com- 
 
 ^^ff'l6. 
 
 ing up from springing to springing will rise the height 
 of one riser. Again at Fig. 16, on the line from D, 
 set up the height of one riser. Draw the line from 
 I through C; a second line is drawn parallel with the 
 first. This line would represent the gauge line on 
 the stuff for the face mould. Square over the lines on 
 the stuff; from i, C,'3', on these lines, mark off the dis- 
 tances taken from the plan iB', CMA, and 3D, and 
 through the points draw the tangent lines A'B', A'D', 
 and B'C CD' the springing lines. Produce the tan- 
 gent lines any convenient length and make the joint 
 lines square with them. 
 To draw the bevel, place the pitch-board on the side 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 77 
 
 AD of the square with its tread side to the line, and 
 draw the pitch through A, which is the inclination of 
 the tangents. Then with D as center draw the circle 
 tangent to the pitch, and cutting the side CD pro- 
 duced, draw the line from the intersection to A, and in 
 the angles is seen the bevel for both ends. Set off half 
 the width of rail on DA, project it up to the bevel. 
 This gives on the top edge half the width of face 
 mould at each end. Set off this width on each side ot 
 the tangent lines A'B', A'D', and draw parallel lines 
 through the points to the springing lines C'B', CD'. 
 To draw the curves turn the center lines around to 
 meet XY at O; on each side of O set off half the width 
 of rail; project these on to the line 1-3', which gives 
 the semi-major axis for each curve. On each side of 
 
 M on the minor axis line, set off half the width of 
 rail; these give the semi-minor axis for each curve. 
 Draw the curves which must pass through the points 
 on the springing lines on each side of B' and D'. 
 Fig. 17 is the wreath worked into cylindrical form, 
 
yS COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 and the lines shown ready for squaring. To draw the 
 lines on the stuff, a thin piece is made to the size of 
 the rail before being moulded, and a gauge line run 
 through the center both ways. The one through the 
 depth is held to the line drawn across the end or joint 
 with the bevel, and the other kept to the center of the 
 stuff. Mark the top and bottom, which gives the 
 shaded portions to come off. The line through the 
 center is squared over on each side as far as the spring- 
 ing lines at SS, the minor axis line is drawn across the 
 stuff parallel with the springing lines. Mark the center 
 of the stuff on this line, and with O as a center, and 
 the compasses set to half the depth of the rail, draw 
 the two arcs as shown. The outside of the wreath is 
 marked in the same manner. 
 
 In squaring the wreath the slabs at B and T are 
 worked off square with the joints as far as the spring- 
 ing lines, then eased around tangent to the arcs of 
 circles, the two opposite slabs being worked off 
 parallel to the depth of the rail. 
 
 Before being squared the height must be tested. The 
 wreath is put in the vice or bench screw, and the sides 
 and springing lines set perpendicular to a board planed 
 true and laid on the bench top. With one end of a 
 rod on the board, mark the point where the center line 
 cuts the springing line at S, then move the rod around 
 to the other point S, still keeping the end on the 
 board, and mark the point. If the distance between 
 the two points on the rod equals the height at Fig. 2 
 the wreath can be squared, if not, the center lines must 
 be raised or lowered to suit. 
 
 Fig. 18 is the plan and stretchout of the tangents for 
 another quarter-space landing, the center line being 
 struck with a smaller radius than Fig. i. The tan- 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 79 
 
 gents are unfolded and the center line drawn at the 
 top and bottom portions as shown. The center line 
 
 ^^^. 18, 
 
 Re 
 
 A'D' is produced past A', which is the point where the 
 center line of the lower portions must meet it. It will 
 be seen that if the center line of the lower portion had 
 been produced, it would cut the perpendicular below 
 
8o 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 A'. Then the pitch must oe altered to lengthen as few 
 balusters as possible. This must be done from about 
 the center of the last step, as shown by the pitch- 
 board. Draw the line B'A' as shown. Bisect the 
 angle; draw the joint-line to meet the bisecting line, 
 which is the center the ramp is struck from. 
 
 Fig, 19. 
 
 Fig. 19 shows the face mould for Fig. 18, obtained in 
 the same way as those for Fig. i on the last page. 
 
 Fig. 20 shows how the usual 
 thickness allowed for the wreath 
 is obtained. Where there is a 
 different bevel for each end the 
 one with the more acute angle 
 is used. 
 
 Fig. 21 is the plan of center line of rail for a well 
 with six winders, as shown, two of them being in the 
 springing at each side. Draw the tangent lines, the 
 joint line CD, and the springing lines EC, CF forming- 
 two squares as shown. 
 
 Tig, 20 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 ,10. 
 
 Fig. 2], 
 
 18 
 
 Fig. 22 is the stretchout or 
 development of the tangent 
 lines. To draw this let the 
 line LM be the edge of the 
 drawing board; with a bevel 
 set to a convenient angle the 
 end of the winder and riser 
 would give the pitch. Draw 
 the line B'B"; then parallel 
 with B'B" draw A'A" at a 
 distance equal to the side BA 
 of the square at Fig. 21, and 
 the same with D'D", E'E" 
 and FT". Place the pitch- 
 board with its riser side to 
 the line B'B", as shown, and 
 draw the last straight step. 
 From the top of the riser 
 
82 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 draw the line at right angles to B'B" for the first 
 winder. This being the development of the tangents 
 the width of each winder is taken from where they cut 
 the tangent lines at Fig. 21. Then on the first winder 
 from B'B" mark off the distance B to R12*, Fig. 21, and 
 through the point R12', with the pitch-board mark off 
 the height of a riser; and through the point draw the 
 line at right angles to A'X" for the second winder. 
 From A'X" mark off the distance A to R13, Fig. 21, and 
 through the point draw R13' the height of a riser, and 
 drawthe line atright angles to D'D" for the third winder. 
 Refening to Fig. 21 it will be seen that riser 14 passes 
 through the point D, then R14', Fig. 22, is on the line 
 D'D". Mark the height of a riser, and draw the line at 
 right angles for the next winder. The drawing for the 
 top winders up to Ri/' is just a repetition of what has 
 been done for the others. Then from R17' draw the 
 next straight step, and from the top edge of the 
 pitch-board, top and bottom, set off half the depth of 
 the rail and draw the center line as shown. It will be 
 seen that, if the center line at the top had been con- 
 tinued straight to meet E'E", the rail would be too 
 high over winder 16; then the rail must be lowered at 
 F', but not more than half its depth. From the center 
 line at about the center of the step, draw the pitch to 
 E', as shown; draw the pitch A'E' nearly parallel with 
 the winders. In this case it is continued down to meet 
 the center line at the bottom. If this should make the 
 rail too high at winder 13, then the pitch must be 
 lowered at A', and A'B' drawn to another pitch. Where 
 the pitches meet the center lines at top and bottom, 
 bisect the angles and draw the joint lines square with 
 the pitches, and to meet the bisecting lines which give 
 
 *R. 12 means riser 12 on Fig. 21, and R. 12', riser 12' in Fig. 22; and so on 
 with these compound references.— £"rf. 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 «3 
 
 the centers the ramps are struck from. The joints 
 should be kept clear off the springing lines B'B" and 
 F'F". The ramps may be made any length. The 
 center lines must be marked on the templets and the 
 face of the risers lo and 12, as shown, and transferred 
 to the ramps. The lengths of the straight rail can be 
 got from these riser lines, and all can be jointed with 
 accuracy. 
 
 Fig. 23 is the face mould for the lower portion, the 
 drawing being similar in every respect to what has 
 already been described. The height is taken from 
 where the pitch or raking tangent cuts the springing 
 line B'B", Fig. 22, to the line drawn at right angles to 
 D'D" through the joint. The pitches being the same, 
 the bev^el answers for both ends. Where the line from 
 B' cuts A'A" at N, with N as center, draw the circle 
 tangent to the pitch and cutting A'A". From the 
 intersection draw the line to B', and in the angle is 
 
84 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 seen the bevel. The straight portion of the face mould 
 from B' to joint at Fig. 23 is made the same as B' to 
 joint at Fig. 22. 
 
 Fig. 24 is the 
 face mould for the 
 top portion. To 
 find the height 
 where the pitch 
 cuts the springing 
 line F'F", Fig. 22, 
 draw the lineF'F" 
 at right angles to 
 D"; then to the 
 lineatright angles 
 to D'D", through 
 the joint is the 
 height. Where 
 the line through 
 the joint cuts E'F' 
 at O, with O as 
 center, draw a cir- 
 cle tangent to the 
 pitch and cutting 
 the line E'E". From the intersection draw the line to 
 D', and in the angle is seen the bevel for the shank end; 
 where the line F'D" cuts E'E" as center draw a circle 
 tangent to the lower pitch, and cutting the line E'E". 
 From the intersection draw the line to D", and in the 
 angle is seen the bevel for the center joint. Make F 
 joint. Fig. 24, same as F joint. Fig. 22. 
 
 Fig. 25 shows a simple method of finding the 
 bevels, and one which answers in every case. Let 
 LM be the edge of the drawing board. Square over the 
 line CM, and make the line CM equal to the radius of 
 
 Fig. 24 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 85 
 
 the center line of rail Then at Fig. 
 24, with C as a center, draw an arc tan- 
 gent to the line E'D'; then with C, Fig. 
 2C, as a center and the same radius, 
 draw the arc cutting the edge of the 
 board, as shown; draw from the inter- 
 section to C, and in the angle is the 
 bevel for that end of the wreath. 
 Again at Fig. 24, with C as a center, 
 draw an arc tangent to the line E'F', 
 and repeat at Fig. 25 for the bevel for 
 that end of the wreath. These bevels 
 can be tested with those at Fig. 22, and 
 they will be found to be exactly the same 
 
 R7 
 
 Fig. 26 
 
 Fig. 26 is the plan of the wreath, showing the risers 
 and tangents. 
 
 Fig. 27 is the development, being a repetition of 
 what has been done in previous chapters. It will be 
 seen that the center lines of the straight rails (if pro- 
 
86 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 -s- 
 
 ■9; 
 
 '^^<?/ 
 
 'd. 
 
 Fig.27. 
 
 duced) would not meet on the 
 perpendicular A'. Then there 
 are three ways this wreath may 
 be worked out by the tangent 
 system: first, with the wreath 
 in one piece, and to form its 
 own easings. To do this set- 
 tle on the position of the joints 
 JJ (the shorter the shank ends 
 the less thickness will be re- 
 quired for the wreath) ; from JJ 
 draw the pitch across the well. 
 The point where this line cuts 
 the perpendiculars B' and D', 
 gives the height. 
 
 Fig. 28* 
 
 Fig. 28: The pitches of the 
 wreath being equal, the face 
 mould is drawn same as those 
 in previous plates. 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 87 
 
 Fig. 29 is an 
 i s o m e t r i c a 1 
 sketch of the 
 wreath worked 
 into cylindrical 
 form. Cut out 
 the wreath a lit- 
 tle wider than 
 the face mould; 
 square through 
 the plank; plane 
 onefacetrue and 
 apply the face 
 
 mould, marking the joints and transferring the tangent 
 lines to the stuff. Those are represented by the dotted 
 lines. At first the joints are made square to those lines 
 and to the face of the wreath. Square the lines over 
 the ends as far as the center C; then with the bevel, 
 shown at Fig. 27, draw lines across the ends through C. 
 From those lines, draw lines square from the end on 
 each face of the wreath. The tangent lines on the face 
 mould are held to these when marking and working 
 the wreath into cylindrical form. -When the face 
 mould is in its position on the wreath (when worked), 
 draw lines across each side of the wreath from the 
 springing and minor axis lines as shown. Draw the line 
 through C square with the line drawn with the bevel. 
 From this line draw square from the end the center line 
 JS on the side of the wreath. Referring again to Fig. 
 ij it will be seen the center line of the straight rail 
 meets the perpendicular springing line D' at T. Then 
 make a thin piece of stuff to the exact shape of the 
 triangle JST and apply this to the wreath at Fig. 29. 
 With the side JS to JS, and ST to the springing line draw 
 
88 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 the line JT, which is the new center line. The joint is 
 then made square to this line and the side of the 
 wreath. This will be repeated at the other end. Then 
 test the height and square the wreath. The shank 
 ends must be worked off as far as necessary parallel to 
 the new center line JT. Should it be necessary to 
 have the shank ends the exact length shown at Fig. 27 
 the tangent lines on the face mould, B'J and D'J, Fig. 
 28, would be made to TJ instead of SJ, Fig. 27. to 
 allow TJ on the wreath, Fig. 29, to be the same length 
 as TJ, Fig. 27. This would be immaterial in joining up 
 to straight rails, as the springing lines are drawn 
 across the under side of the wreath and the lengths 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 \ i 
 
 L 
 
 V 
 
 ^^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 E 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 X 
 
 t^--^^ 
 
 'i^j. 
 
 A:^ 
 
 K. 
 
 
 / 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 \^y^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 X 
 
 
 \^ 
 
 
 hi 
 
 
 
 La 
 
 nding. 
 
 
 
 Fig. 
 
 30. 
 
 
 
 
 
 w 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 cL 
 
 
 
 
 
 P B. 
 
 V 1 1 III 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 are taken from them. For the extra thickness 
 
 required for this wreath the distance ST, Fig. 27, 
 
 would be quite sufficient over what is usually allowed. 
 
 Fig. 30 is the development for the wreath to be in 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 89 
 
 one piece with the easing on the straight rail at the 
 top. The face mould is not drawn, being similar to 
 those already explained. 
 
 Fig. 31 is the development for the wreath to be in 
 two pieces. Redraw the plan same as Fig. i; draw 
 the joint line CD, and draw BE tangent to the center 
 line and at right angles to CD. Produce the center 
 lines past A and F to meet B and E. With B and E as 
 centers turn the springing lines around, and project 
 them up parallel with CD. Draw the landing line at 
 right angles to CD; place the pitch-board at Ry and 
 draw the pitch and center line. At RS set up one riser 
 
90 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 above the landing; then draw the pitch and center lines. 
 From where the center lines cut the perpendiculars B' 
 and E', draw the pitch in the center of the wreath, and 
 where this cuts the perpendicular D' gives one point in 
 the height, and the joint is drawn through the intersec- 
 tion, and where the center lines cut the perpendiculars, 
 A' and F', gives the other points in the heights, as 
 shown by the horizontal lines. 
 
 Fig. 32 is the face 
 mould. Redraw the cen- 
 ter line with its tangents 
 AB and BD; produce 
 AB to T, making BT 
 same as B'T, Fig. 6. 
 Draw the ordinate TD; 
 draw XY at right angles 
 to TD through the cen- 
 ter C and draw projec- 
 tions from A and B, and 
 on TD produced. Set 
 up the height H, taken 
 from Fig. 6, from where the projector from A cuts XY. 
 Draw the pitch of plank and parallel with this draw the 
 line through C. Where the lines from TD, B and A 
 cut this line draw lines at right angles. Measure on 
 these the distances lA, 2B and 3D, join A'B'D' and 
 make the joint square with B'D'. Draw the springing 
 line through A' to C and on the line from C set off the 
 radii of the inside and outside of the rail for the minor 
 axis. Turn the center line around to meet XY at O, 
 set off half the width of rail on each side, project these 
 down to meet the pitch-line for the major axis, and 
 draw the curves. 
 
 Fig. 33 shows the bevels. Let LM be the edge of a 
 
 ^i^.3S. 
 
THIRD METHOD 91 
 
 board. Square over a line and measure z 
 
 off on this che radius of the center line of 
 rail CA. Then with C, Fig. 32, as center, 
 draw an arc tangent to A'B'. Then from 
 C draw the arc, cutting LM; draw from 
 the intersection to C, and in the angle is cf 
 the bevel for the shank end. Set off pj^^ ^3 
 half the width of radii on AC; project ~~ 
 
 this up to the top edge of the bevel; take the distance 
 along the top edge of the bevel and set it off on each 
 side of the tangent A'B', Fig. 32. Draw the lines 
 parallel with A'B to meet the springing line. The 
 elliptic curves must pass through these points. The 
 shank end can be made any length. For the bevel at 
 the other end the arc must be drawn tangent to B'D', 
 Fig. 32, and repeated as shown. 
 
 In the system of handrailing, known as the section 
 of a cylinder, through three given points, or the face 
 mould plane through three points, the section is deter- 
 mined through an imaginary solid containing on its sur- 
 face the center line of rail, and its base being defined 
 by the plan of the center line. The following examples 
 illustrate this method: 
 
 Fig. 34 is the plan and development of the center 
 line of a rail for a well with two quarter-space land- 
 ings, the risers being placed in the springing at each 
 side of the well. To draw the development of the 
 center line, draw the equilateral triangle on the diam- 
 eter of the center line. Produce the two sides to cut 
 the line drawn tangent to the center line and parallel 
 with the diameter. Between the intersections is the 
 stretchout or development, and the perpendicular 
 lines S, S are springing lines. Place the pitch-board 
 with its riser side to the line S at R/; draw the line 
 
92 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 along the top edge where it cuts the springing line; 
 draw the first landing at right angles to the springing 
 
 line. On the line projected from the center of the 
 well, mark off the height of a riser and draw the second 
 
THIRD METHOD 93 
 
 landing; on the springing line mark off the height of 
 a riser and draw the horizontal line. Place the pitch- 
 board with its tread side to this line, and the point to 
 the springing line. Draw the line along the top edge 
 for the under eide of rail and from the top edge of the 
 pitch-board at top and bottom portions, set off half the 
 depth of rail, and draw the center line to meet the 
 springing lines at S'S'. Join S'S' and draw the easings 
 between the two lines at top and bottom, and where 
 the line S'S' cuts the perpendicular from the center of 
 the well, draw the joint line through the intersection, 
 also the horizontal line to the left. Draw the joint 
 line at the shank of the lower portion at right angles 
 to the center line. From the center of the rail erect the 
 perpendicular i'3' to meet the horizontal line through 
 the center joint. r3' is the height the bottom portion 
 of the wreath risers, and also the height of two of the 
 points the section plane must pass through. The 
 middle resting point may be taken in the center of the 
 development for that portion if the shank is short, 
 as in this case, but when the shank is long the middle 
 resting point must be taken in the curve, about one- 
 third the distance between the springing line and the 
 center joint. In this case the horizontal line through 
 the center joint and 3' is divided in two and the per- 
 pendicular dropped to meet the easing line from the 
 intersection. Draw the horizontal line to meet the per- 
 pendicular at 2, which gives the height of the middle 
 resting point the plane must pass through. 
 
 To draw the section these points must be determined 
 in plan. From i', in the center of the shank joint, draw 
 the horizontal line to the springing line. Take this dis- 
 tance in the compasses and mark the center line in the 
 plan from springing to the joint at i. Take the distance 
 
94 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 from the springing line to the middle point at the eas- 
 ing and mark the distance from the springing to 2 in 
 the plan; then 3 at the center joint in plan gives the 
 third point. 
 
 Fig. 35: Redraw the plan with the points as 
 shown. Join 3 and 2, and produce the line to the left 
 and on this line erect perpendiculars from 3 and 2. 
 Make the one from 3 the height of i'-3' at Fig. 34, 
 and the one from 2 the height of i'-2', Fig. 34. Draw 
 
THIRD METHOD 95 
 
 a line through the points meeting the line joining 2 and 
 3, which is one point in the horizontal trace. The 
 point I at the center of the shank joint is in the hor- 
 izontal plane. Draw HT through these points; draw 
 XY at right angles to HT; draw ordinates from the 
 center and each side of the rail at the springing line. 
 Across the rail through C and from 3, at the center 
 joint on the line from 3, set up the height, i'-3', Fig. 34; 
 above XY draw the lines i, 3', which is the pitch-line. 
 From where the ordinates cut this line, draw lines at 
 right angles and measure off on these lines from the 
 pitch-line, the corresponding points in plan, measured 
 from XY. The curves may be drawn with the trammel. 
 Turn the center line around and draw the line tangent 
 to it parallel with the ordinates. Set off half the 
 width of rail on each side of this line and project these 
 up to 1-3' and to the major axis line, which gives 
 the semi-major axis for both curves, the semi-minor 
 being on the line. Through C, draw the springing 
 line 4'C', and draw the line through 3'C'. The 
 joints are made at right angles to these produced 
 at r and 3', as shown. Draw the shaded section, 
 and the line through the bottom corner shows the 
 thickness for the square rail. In the angle is 
 seen the bevel to slide the mould by. The dotted 
 line from the top point of the bevel cutting the line 
 through the bottom corner of the section gives the 
 whole distance the mould has to slide. Bisect this line 
 at M and draw the line on the face mould through the 
 center of the rail on the minor axis line parallel to 
 the major axis and pitch-line. Apply the face mould to 
 the plank, and cut the piece square through, a little 
 wider than the face mould. Plane one face true and 
 transfer the minor axis line and the line parallel with 
 
96 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 the major axis from the 
 mould to the stuff. Square 
 over the minor axis line on 
 both edges and mark the 
 distance from M to the dot- 
 ted line at Fig. 35, on one 
 side of the minor axis line 
 at the top and on the other 
 at the bottom. 
 
 Fig. 36 shows an isomet- 
 ric projection of the cylin- 
 der with the lines on the 
 surface. 
 
 Fig. 37 shows the face 
 mould in its position when 
 held to the tangent lines. 
 This is known as the square 
 cut. 
 
 Fig. 38 shows the mould marked on the top and bot- 
 tom faces of the plank, the mould being moved along 
 
THIRD METHOD 
 
 97 
 
 the line on the underside to the distance given at Fig. 
 35. The wreath is cut out to those lines. This is 
 
 known as the bevel cut. The top portion of the 
 wreath is the same as the bottom. To make the joint 
 at the shank end, it may be necessary to use the short 
 piece of falling mould as at Fig. 34. 
 
 This last example is after the system invented by 
 Peter Nicholson, and is, in fact, the foundation of all 
 scientific methods of handrailing, though the system 
 has been very much improved by modern handrailers. 
 
 As this little book is intended only for instruction in 
 handrailing, very little has been said regarding the 
 construction of the carcasses of stairs themselves, that 
 subject being left for future consideration, as it was 
 not considered wise to overload this volume with 
 matter not pertinent to the subject in hand, and thus 
 increase its selling price beyond what the workman 
 would care to pay. 
 
 It is hoped that out of the numerous examples given, 
 the searcher for instruction in handrailing will find 
 more than enough to compensate him for the outlay of 
 money and time he will expend on this little volume. 
 
SFCTTONS OF HANDRAILS 
 
INTRODUCTION TO METHOD IV 
 
 NEWELLED OR PLATFORM STAIRS 
 
 With the introduction of the so-called Queen-Anne 
 and Eastlike styles of building some thirty years ago, 
 the newelled or platform stairs came more and more 
 in vogue, and at the present time more than half the 
 stairs that are erected are of this kind; and this fact 
 has, in a great measure, done away with the necessity 
 of a study of the science of handrailing by every work- 
 man who aspires to be a stairbuilder and handrailer. 
 But while that necessity is removed to a large extent, 
 the ambitious young workman should make a success- 
 ful attempt to master the art of circular handrailing, 
 as it will open up beauties to his mind he never could 
 have appreciated otherwise, and will broaden his 
 knowledge, and enable him to deal with knotty ques- 
 tions of joinery with skill and speed. Platform stairs are 
 easy to construct when once the plan is determined, as 
 newels are placed at the angles, thus doing away with 
 sweeps and curves in the rail, or bending of the strings. 
 They are cheaper than stairs having circular strings, 
 and may be made to have a handsome and impressive 
 appearance. The newels and balusters can assume 
 almost any size and style. The stairs may have open 
 strings, or closed ones to suit the style of architecture. 
 Newels may be massive or slight, "built-up" or made 
 of one solid piece, as may be desired; but where the 
 newels are large, I would advise they be "built up," 
 as a solid newel is likely to check and split and get out 
 of shape. 
 
 99 
 
 L.ciC. 
 
TOO COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Stairs of the kind under discussion can be made an 
 attractive feature in a house. Every architect knows 
 this; but no man can build a flight that will be com- 
 fortable, or even safe, in a cramped or narrow hall. 
 Stairs are exacting in their demands, and if these 
 demands are not complied with we shall be reminded 
 of the neglect every time we use them. We may resort 
 to make-shifts (if inclined to do so) in other parts of 
 the house, but we cannot put off the stairs with any- 
 thing and say "it will do," and no coaxing will bring 
 an ill-contrived or badly-arranged flight of stairs into 
 use on any possible terms. A good run is what every 
 flight of stairs rec^uires. If the run is not long enough, 
 then we must increase the height of the risers; and the 
 rise, after it has reached a certain point, becomes 
 trying, then difficult, and at last dangerous. In many 
 houses, in almost all cheap houses, the rise is eight 
 inches. Even the back stairs should not have a more 
 rapid rise, and for the principal stairs this is wholly 
 inadmissablc. The other extreme, a fault not often 
 committed, is to have the rise too low. 
 
 There are great varieties of rise gixen to stairs for 
 various purposes, and rules have been laid down for 
 calculating the proportion of tread to riser. A modern 
 writer has given seven different proportions adapted 
 for buildings of different classes. His most ample 
 tread is I2 in. with a 5^-in. riser; his next, 11)2 in. 
 and 53,4 in.; then follow 11 in. and 6 in., loj^ in. and 
 6 '4 in., 10 in. and 6yi in., 9)^ in. and 6^^ in., con- 
 cluding with 9 in. and 7 in. We may say that a 9-in. 
 tread is about the least that is usually allowed in prac- 
 tice when there is any attempt made to study ordinary 
 comfort, although we haxe met with 8-in. risers and 
 8-in. treads in suburban villas, which, of course, gives 
 
FOURTH METHOD loi 
 
 an angle of ascent of 45 deg. ; while in the seven fore- 
 going proportions this angle varies between 24 deg. 
 and 37 deg. It is often expedient, however, to make 
 it iower than 24 deg. With regard to rules for calcu- 
 lating the proportions of steps, some persons maintain 
 that the tread and riser added togetner should equal 
 i J in. This would give 13 in and 5 in., 12 in. and 
 6 in., 10 in. and 8 in., and 9 in. and 9 in , and in the 
 two latter proportions the rise is too great. Others say 
 that the tread and riser multiplied together should 
 equal iy}4 in., which will give 13 in. and about 5 in., 
 12 in. and 5^ in., 10 in. and 6| in., 9 in. and yjA in., 
 and 8 in. and S}{ in. This rule gives better results 
 than the former. Whether the risers are high or low, 
 they must all be of a uniform height. Any departure 
 from this rule is always attended with mischievous 
 results. If all the risers in a flight are seven inches, 
 with one exception, and that one is either six or eight 
 inches high, every person who passes up or down will 
 trip at that step. No matter how often he goes up or 
 down, he will always trip at that point. 
 
 The practical difficulties in arranging stairs to rise 
 from one level to another with a sufficient tread and a 
 commodious headway are often great, while in con- 
 struction awkward problems are frequently suggested 
 from the necessity of carrying flights of stairs over 
 spaces where they can neither be well fastened into 
 the side walls nor supported from below. Not only do 
 these practical difficulties have to be considered in 
 every class of staircase, from that of a cottage to that 
 of a palace, but in all situations where the stairs form 
 a conspicuous feature and where there is any pretense 
 at ornamental building, its artistic treatment affords 
 ample scope for the skill of the architect or the work- 
 
I02 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 man. Stairs of this kind, to be effective, should be 
 wide between the wall and rail, with one or two flats 
 or landings. The rail must be heavy, the balusters 
 something more than "broom handles," and at the 
 foot let there be a newel, on which the architect may 
 display his taste and skill. It need not be elaborate, 
 but it is a conspicuous object, and it should have 
 something more to recommend it to our notice than 
 the cheap and stereotyped forms, which maybe bought 
 at the turner's by the hundred. As a first and most 
 essential principle, a staircase should present an invi- 
 ting aspect, suggestive of an easy ascent, not of a 
 painful and laborious effort at climbing. Therefore, 
 even if it were, as a rule, possible, which it rarely is, 
 to arrange several flights in a direct line, it would be 
 undesirable to do so; for, however imposing the effect 
 of such an arrangement, it could not but oppress those 
 about to ascend it with an uncomfortable sense of 
 coming fatigue, suggested by the prospect of one long 
 ascent, broken only by landings which would be lost 
 to view from the bottom. 
 
 It is pleasant to mount up stairs properly planned, 
 especially if they are well lighted and ventilated. 
 And if on the first landing the architect can contrive a 
 bay, deeply recessed and provided with seats beneath 
 the wide windows, he will, by so doing, add another 
 charm to the house. Here, those who are advanced in 
 years, and who find it difficult to climb one flight at a 
 time, may rest awhile, or sit and chat. Here the little 
 ones love to pause in their passage up and down, and 
 here flowers growing in a jardiniere in front of the 
 window, may send their fragrance through the house. 
 
 Stairs may be of wood, stone, marble, brick, terra 
 cotta, iron, or iron and concrete. The arrangement 
 
FOURTH METHOD 103 
 
 and construction of staircases forms one of the most 
 important, and often most difificult branches of archi- 
 tecture and building. 
 
 Modern stone steps are either solid or formed with 
 treads and risers. It was the latter mode of construc- 
 tion that probably first suggested the nosing which is 
 found in the buildings of the Italian renaissance, 
 erected during the sixteenth century. It is quite clear 
 that stone stairs of the tread-and-riser construction 
 require firm support at each end, and it is for this 
 reason that they are seldom used except in basements. 
 Most stairs, whether in stone or marble, are usually 
 solid, and depend for support upon being tailed into 
 the wall at one end, and being connected together 
 with bird's-mouth joints, by which means each step is 
 sustained in position by the one immediately below it, 
 so that the thrust of an entire flight is transferred 
 from top to bottom. In wide flights — those exceeding 
 4 ft. in width — it is often expedient to strengthen the 
 connection of the stairs by means of a flat bar of rolled 
 iron fixed to their ends with small bolts let into the 
 stone and run with lead. Sometimes a bar of rolled L 
 iron is placed so that its bottom flange is under the 
 sofiit of the stairs; and sometimes it maybe connected 
 with the balusters when they are affixed to the outside 
 of the stairs, after a French method that has been 
 introduced with the object of gaining more space upon 
 the stairs; but, in any case, it is not difficult to impart 
 an ornamental character to the iron stiffening bar, or 
 to the screw nuts that hold it in position. When, as 
 in some cases, the stairs cannot be tailed in a wall at 
 either end, it is common to pin them in between the 
 flanges of a raking riveted girder or a rolled I joist or 
 channel iron. 
 
I04 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 The variety of materials now used for staircases has 
 given rise to many different methods of construction. 
 Many modern methods of treatment have been derived 
 from stone forms, for the oldest specimens that remain 
 to us from antiquity are of stone. The Greeks and 
 Romans appear to have treated the staircase purely as 
 a utilitarian accessory to a building, and not as in any 
 way to be regarded from an aesthetic standpoint. 
 Among all the builders of antiquity the Assyrians and 
 Persians best understood the imposing effect produced 
 by vast flights of steps, as may be gathered from the 
 remains at Nineveh and Persepolis. But the ancient 
 modes of construction were very simple. For the 
 most part the flights of steps were carried upon solid 
 masses of masonry, or occasionally upon vaults, when 
 the space underneath was to be utilized. The steps 
 were perfectly plain, without nosings, and the modern 
 bird's-mouth joint was conspicuous by its absence. 
 
 Much the same may be said of mediaeval staircases. 
 In earliest forms of spiral turret staircases, a solid 
 newel of masonry was built up in the center, and from 
 this to the walls was thrown the vaulting, which was 
 carried up in a spiral form, and upon which the steps 
 were laid without being bonded either into the newel 
 or the wall. In later examples the steps were tailed 
 into the walls, while their smaller ends, being cut to 
 circular form upon plan, were built one upon the other, 
 so that they actually formed the newel. 
 
 While these few hints regarding the uses of materials 
 other than wood for construction, are presented here- 
 with, it is not the province of this essay to deal in other 
 than wood in the construction of stairs. In another 
 volume, stone, iron, concrete and terra cotta will be 
 talked over in their relations to stair constructions. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 105 
 
 In the following pages I have endeavored to show 
 by illustrations and descriptions a variety of designs 
 for platform stairs, so that almost an}^ taste, or any 
 style of building may be satisfied. I have also added 
 some useful memoranda, which I feel assured will be 
 welcomed by all workmen having stairs to build. 
 
 Most of the illustrations presented are from Ameri- 
 can examples, though I have thought it proper to 
 exhibit a few of the curious or elaborate platform 
 stairs from the Old World, not so much as specimens 
 to follow, but simply to show to what extent of labor 
 and ornamentation the old workmen went to satisfy 
 their taste. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 EXAMPLES OF PLATFORM STAIRS 
 
 It may seem lost effort to tell the workman that one 
 of the first requisites, and the most important one, is 
 that the carriage of a flight of stairs be built strongly 
 and with timbers of such a dimension that any ordinary 
 weight that may possibly be taken over the stairs will 
 not cause the timbers or strings to "sag" or bend under 
 the load. Often pianos are taken upstairs, and these 
 may have a weight of anywhere from 350 to 1, 000 
 pounds, or more, and this stair, with the weight of 
 four or five men added who will be required to assist in 
 getting one of these bulky instruments upstairs, will 
 increase the weight considerably. The framework of 
 a stairway should be made to resist a stress of not less 
 than two tons. Strings for flights having ten or less 
 treads, should never be less than 14 in. wide and i^ 
 in. thick, and these should be re-enforced by rough-cut 
 strings. 10 or 12 in. wide and 2 in. thick. One of 
 these rough strings should be spiked or screwed to the 
 inside of the open string, and another similarly fast- 
 ened to the wall or housed string, and one or two of 
 these strings should be placed at equal distances 
 between the open and wall strings. The rough strings 
 should fit accurately against both tread and riser in 
 order to get the best results. Flights of greater length 
 should have stouter strings and more bearing pieces. 
 If the outside string is supported with a partition run- 
 ning to the floor, or the stairs ha\e a cross partition, 
 
 1 06 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 107 
 
 half way in their length, then the timbers need not be 
 so heavy; but, it is always better to err on the side of 
 strength and rigidity than to have the frame of a stair 
 weak and frail. 
 
 Fig. I. 
 
 PLATFORMS 
 
 When the plan of the stair will permit, it is always 
 better to have a platform. A platform built on posts 
 
io8 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILINC^ 
 
 which reach down to a solid foundation at the lower 
 floor, or below, if necessary, is always the best. Posts 
 may be halv^ed at the top to receive joists or joist- 
 bearers; or timbers may be tenoned into the posts. I 
 prefer halving, however, as then we get the whole 
 strength of the bearing pieces. In all cases, provision 
 must be made for the proper fastening of the newel 
 
 -Ig. 2. 
 
 posts at the corners, and, if circumstances will admit 
 of it, the shank of the newel post should run down 
 below the timbering of the platform as shown at A, 
 Fig. I, and on larger scale abo\'e the newel. In this 
 figure the string is shown, also the lines of balusters. 
 There is a sub-rail in this example, which is placed just 
 
FOURTH METHOD 109 
 
 above the line of nosings. A device of this kind allows 
 a broom or brush to sweep clear through to end of 
 step, to clean off dust without being obstructed by 
 balusters. The platform is shown at N which may be 
 continued to suit conditions. A lower platform which 
 may belong to the same stairs is shown at Fig. 2. 
 Here 1 show the drop of the newel A, reaching down 
 further than the one in Fig. i. The platform N may 
 be extended to any length suitable to the requirements. 
 Newels running down in the angle formed by the angle 
 of the apron of the platform and the outside string, 
 should be well secured to both the timber of the plat- 
 form and the string. This can best be done by insert- 
 ing a handrail bolt in the newel and leaving the end 
 projecting out to pass through the timber, and another 
 one should be placed so that it will pass through the 
 string. Sometimes the newel is placed in position 
 before the string is put up, and the center line of bal- 
 usters is made to coincide with the center line of the 
 newel. This is an excellent method if the stairs are 
 open under the string, for then the "drop" can hang 
 below the apron and string. The newel can be gained 
 out to the proper depth over the joists, and the apron 
 can be fitted in nicely to build against the shank of the 
 newel post. 
 
 AN OPEN NEWEL STAIR 
 
 I show, at Fig. 3, the ground plan of an open newel 
 stair having two landings and closed strings. The 
 dotted lines show the carriage timbers and trimmers, 
 also the lines of risers; while the treads are shown by 
 complete lines. It will be noticed that the strings and 
 trimmers of the first landi.ig are framed into the shank 
 
no 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILTNG 
 
 of the second newel post which runs down to the floor, 
 while the third newel drops below the apron and has a 
 turned and carved drop. This drop hangs below both 
 apron and string, as shown in Fig. 4. The lines of 
 treads and risers are shown both by dotted lines and 
 etched sections. The position of the carriage timbers 
 
 to feet 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 is shown both in landings and run of stairs, the pro- 
 jecting ends of timbers are supposed to be resting on 
 the wall. A scale of the plan and elevation is attached 
 to plan. 
 
 Fig. 4 shows the elevation in full with a story rod 
 shown on the right, with the number of risers spaced 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 III 
 
 otY. Design of newel, spandrel, framing and paneling 
 is shown, also "raking" balusters. 
 
 Only the central carriage timbers are shown, but in 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 a stair of this width there ought to be two other tim- 
 bers, not perhaps so heavy as the central one, yet 
 strong enough to be of service, also to help carry the 
 
1 f 2 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 lath or paneling which may be necessary in comple- 
 ting the soffit. The strings being closed, the butts of 
 the balusters must rest on a sub-rail which caps the 
 upper edge of the outer string. 
 
 The first newel should pass through the lower floor 
 and should be secured by bolts to a joist, as shown in 
 the elevation, so as to insure solidity. The rail is 
 attached to the newels in the usual manner with hand- 
 rail bolts or other suitable device. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 The sketches shown at Figs. 5 and 6 exhibit the end 
 of the bottom step, which is semi-circular or "bull- 
 nosed," also an end view of the lower tread and riser 
 with the shank of the newel passing through. The 
 position of the newel, with regard to the step, is shown 
 by the dotted lines in Fig. 5. 
 
 The block B may be made from one solid piece of 
 stuff or built up in layers and the face covered with a 
 thin veneer, as shown in the illustration; and this finish 
 is then the face of the riser. The nosing on the tread 
 is worked on the end of the stuff, and the cove under 
 the tread is worked on the end of the stuff, and the 
 cove under the tread may be worked from the solid, 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 113 
 
 or it may i3e sprung in place if made of some elastic 
 wood and steamed. 
 
 An examination of Fig. 4 will reveal the fact that 
 blocks XXX are glued or otherwise fastened in the 
 angles formed by the junction of the treads and risers. 
 These blocks may be beveled off as shown, or they may 
 be left simply as square blocks. This device is to give 
 rigidity to the work. These blocks should be put in 
 between the carriage pieces, as the latter should, when 
 possible, fit snug to both tread and riser and go well 
 into the angles. 
 
 Sometimes i n 
 landing stairs the 
 rail finishes in a 
 cap at the top of 
 the newel; in such 
 cases, the cap is 
 turned, having its 
 edge made in the 
 same shape as the 
 edge or moulding 
 of the rail, as 
 shown at Fig. 7. 
 When this is the 
 case, some special 
 manipulation o f 
 the cap is neces- 
 sary to have it fit 
 properly, as shown 
 at Fig. 8. The 
 method of finding 
 the proper shape 
 of the cap is shown 
 at Fig. 9. The Fig. 7. 
 
114 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 upper section shows the rail, which is supposed to be 
 the full size; the lower section shows the cap, which 
 may be of any reasonable diameter. Draw the plan of 
 the cap as shown, then a section of the rail, then draw 
 
 .J 
 
 ^ 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 I i 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 the joint or miter lines as shown, and from the outside 
 points of these lines draw parallel lines with the central 
 line A. Divide into spaces as shown by the dotted 
 lines, then at the junction with the miter lines describe 
 semi-circles as shown, until they cut the line of diam- 
 eter. Square down these lines and from them prick- 
 off the points as figured, and through these prick points 
 describe the curves and squares; then, when mitered 
 
 with the rail, there will be no over 
 wood to remove. 
 
 To cut the miter on the cap, 
 -® ! — ^ first prepare a cutting block simi- 
 lar to that shown at Fig. 10, which 
 ^ may be made from a piece of stuff 
 Fig. 10. 2 or 3 in. thick and planed true 
 
 /=Xy to 
 
 :^l 
 
FOURTH METHOD 115 
 
 on the face. Gauge a center line upon it and insert a 
 dowel that will fit snugly in a corresponding hole in 
 the cap. Next saw two kerfs in the block parallel with 
 the gauge line, as shown at aa^ and at a distance from 
 the latter equal to the square distance of the miter 
 line a from the center of the cap c. Fig. 8. The depth 
 of the saw cuts below the edge of the cap, which is 
 shown by the dotted line in Fig. 10, is made equal to 
 the length of the miter line, as shown in the plan Fig. 8. 
 The width of the rail is marked upon the edge of the 
 cap. The latter is then placed on the dowel and turned 
 around until one of the marks lies against one of the 
 saw kerfs. The saw is then run down to the bottom of 
 the cut, and the cap turned until the other line lies on 
 the other kerf, when the saw^ is again run in to meet 
 the first cut, which finishes the miter complete. The 
 foregoing method is the best and most economical for 
 fitting the rail to the cap, but sometimes it is required 
 that the joint shall be a true miter, which may necessi- 
 tate some different treatment in forming the section of 
 the cap. This is shown in Fig. 7, where full directions 
 are given for laying out the lines for this kind of a cap. 
 
 STAIR STRINGS 
 
 It is hardly necessary for me to say much about 
 forming a pitch board by which stair strings are laid 
 out, but as many of the readers of this book will be 
 beginners in the art of stair-building, it may be well to 
 devote a small space to this subject. 
 
 A pitch board is simply a piece of thin board, or 
 other suitable material, and is in itself triangular. It 
 is so cut as to represent the rise of the step and width 
 of tread proper. The third or long side being the 
 
ii6 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 "run" or "going'' of the stair. A sketch of one is 
 shown in the shaded portion of the string, Fig. 1 1, and 
 its application. The dotted line running through the 
 pitch board shows the line of nosings, and the third 
 edge or "run" of the board. The piece below this line 
 O is a gauge or guide which is necessary to the board, 
 for a quick laying out 
 of treads and risers. It 
 will be seen that the 
 height of the riser is 
 laid off on one edge of 
 
 Fig. II. 
 
 the board, and the 
 width of the tread on 
 the other. Its appli- 
 cation to actual work 
 is apparent without 
 further explanation. 
 
 The string shown in Fig. ii exhibits a wide tread at 
 the bottom, a circumstance that sometimes happens — 
 though a change of pitch should always be avoided 
 where possible — and the string is widened out by hav- 
 ing pieces glued to it, so that it can be "eased-off" 
 with a gentle curve, as shown. There is also an "ease- 
 off" near the lower floor 
 line where the base board 
 may butt against it. This 
 string is, of course, a wall 
 string, and is housed to 
 receive ends of treads and 
 risers. The mannerof hous- 
 ing is shown at Fig. 12, 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 117 
 
 
 where the treads / and the risers r are shown in posi- 
 tion and secured in place by means of wedges, x,y, 
 which should be well covered with good glue before 
 being inserted. Sometimes treads are formed with 
 
 two tenons at each end which 
 
 fit 
 
 relished between tenons and 
 pinned into the shank. This 
 
 string is made 123^ in. wide, which is a \'ery good 
 width for a string of this kind, and the thickness 
 should not be less than 1% in. The upper newel is 
 made 5' 4" long from drop to top of turned cap. 
 These two strings are intended to be capped with a 
 sub-rail on to which the balusters are cut or mortised 
 'n. Generally a groove the width of the square of the 
 baluster is worked on the top of these sub-rails, and 
 the baluster is cut to fit in this groove, then pieces of 
 
ii8 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 stuff made the width of the groove, and a little thicker 
 than the groove is deep, are cut to fit in snugly between 
 the squares of the baluster. This makes a solid job, 
 and the pieces between the balusters may be made of 
 any shape on the top, either beveled, rounded or 
 moulded, in which case much is added to the appear- 
 ance of the stairs. 
 
 Two methods of arranging strings and carriages and 
 adjusting ends against trimmers are shown at Figs. 14 
 and 15. The section shown at Fig. 15 exhibits a 
 method of strengthening the stair with simple uncut 
 strings placed against the angles of the treads and 
 
 ^asinff 
 
 rfi/ui 1 
 
 Bradiet 
 Carriage 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 risers on the underside, and having pieces of rough 
 boards — ends up — nailed to the rough carriage pieces 
 and made to fit snugly against the underside of the 
 tread and the inside of the riser. This method is not 
 a commendable one, though much employed, as the 
 nails may get loosened by the continual jar that a 
 flight of stairs is subject to — a solid carriage piece is 
 much better for the purpose. 
 
 At Fig. 16, I show an example of a cut and mitered 
 string, with a portion of a tread, the end of which is 
 mitered for return nosing, and dovetailed to receive 
 ends of balusters. The other steps show how the 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 119 
 
 string is made and mitered to receive the riser and the 
 tread. In the angle at the bottom tread and risers, an 
 angular block, a, is shown. This tends to give firmness 
 to the structure. The block is glued, bradded, or 
 screwed, in place. A portion of a string, partly fin- 
 ished, is shown at Fig. 17. On this string I show 
 brackets which are about -^^ of an inch thick, and 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 which are planted on the string. The brackets miter 
 with the ends of the risers, and the ends of them 
 which abut the miters should be the same length that 
 the riser is wide, as shown at b. The treads must be 
 left long enough to reach over the edge of the brack- 
 ets; and the nosings "and coves must also be long 
 enough to cover the brackets as shown at <r and /;. The 
 projection of the mitered riser is shown at a. 
 
I20 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 ,^^ 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 121 
 
 An end portion of a cut and mitered string', with a 
 part of string removed, is shown at Fig. i8 in order 
 to give an idea of the method of construction. O and 
 C show the returned nosings, and the manner in which 
 
 the bracket terminates on the nosing; D shows a rough 
 bracket nailed on a rough carriage piece which is a 
 device intended to take the place of a solid cut car- 
 riage string. The balusters are shown as being dove- 
 tailed into ends of treads. 
 
 The illustration show at Fig. 19 is simply a plan of 
 Fig. 18, and shows the position of the string, bracket, 
 riser and tread. The manner of mitering the riser, 
 string and bracket is shown at b, and C shows the miter 
 of the nosing at the angle of the step. 
 
 The return nosings should be fastened to the tread 
 either by dowels or by a feather or slip tongue. The 
 
 manner of doweling the nosing 
 3 is shown at Fig. 20. Slot screw- 
 ing may be employed for this 
 purpose, particularly if the 
 treads are hardwood and the 
 work is to be polished. These 
 Fig. 20. screws are first screwed solid 
 
 into the nosing— that end of the bolt being cut like 
 an ordinary wood screw— and a pocket or pockets are 
 
1 22 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 cut in on the underside of the tread, to receive a nut, 
 which is used to tighten up the joint when the nosing 
 is put in place, just as the butts of handrails are fast- 
 ened together. The nosing shown at Fig. 21 is fastened 
 
 to the end of the tread by aid of 
 a tongue or feather which is glued 
 into a groove made in the end of 
 PJQ. -,j the tread and left to project the 
 
 proper distance. The nosing is 
 also grooved, as shown in Fig. 21, and which corre- 
 sponds with the groove in the tread ; the feather is glued, 
 after which the nosing is driven in place while the glue 
 is warm. Many workmen put in these feathers with 
 the grain of the wood "on end," that is, with the grain 
 in the feather at right angles to the grain in the nosing. 
 This, I think, makes the better job. On cheap stairs 
 the nosing is simply nailed on, the heads of the nails 
 "set" and the nailholes afterward puttied up. 
 
 A very good method, though rather costly, of con- 
 necting tread, riser and cove, is shown at Fig. 22^ 
 
 r 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 Fig. 23 
 
 where the cove is glued into a groove made in the 
 tread. When the work is put together the cove is 
 braded to the riser, which ties the tread down solid to 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 123 
 
 the riser. The completed work is shown at Fig. 23, 
 the lower tread a having the riser tenoned into the 
 tread. At b the tread is screwed from below to the 
 edge of the riser. This makes strong work. The usual 
 
 
 J 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 method of building a step is shown at Fig. 24. Here 
 the riser is tongued into the tread above and runs 
 down below the lower tread, but fits close to its edge 
 to which it is nailed as shown in the upper portion. 
 
 At Fig. 25, I show a quick method of marking the 
 ends of the treads for the dovetails for balusters. The 
 templet marked a is made of some 
 thin stuff, preferably zinc or hardwood. 
 The dovetails are marked out as shov/n, 
 and the intervening spaces are cut out, 
 showing the dovetail portions solid. 
 The templete is then nailed or screwed 
 to a gauge block, e^ when the whole is 
 ready for use. The method of using is 
 shown in the illustration. 
 
 At Fig. 26, I show an exceedingly 
 
 good method of fixing balusters before 
 
 the rail is put on. A thin bar of iron. 
 
 Fig. 26. D, is spaced off and drilled, with the 
 
124 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 small hold over the center of the baluster. Screws or 
 nails are then driven into the baluster as shown, 
 through the holes in the iron. The rail is grooved to 
 suit the thickness of the iron bar and laid on as shown. 
 Holes should be drilled here and there between the 
 balusters, and screws put through them into the 
 wooden rail, which makes the whole work very solid. 
 The iron bar should just be the width of the balusters, 
 and the groove in the wooden rail should be deep 
 enough to admit of the whole thickness of the metal. 
 Often the bottom tread of a stair takes a quarter 
 turn and finishes against the base of the newel post. 
 When this happens, some special work on the riser, 
 tread, and nosing is sure to be required. Fig. 27 shows 
 how the difficulty is dealth with. The riser is left the 
 
 ^'' '. ' '. \ '. .* .2fd$ing. \,\\ \';ty,\^-" Veneer 
 
 Wedges 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 whole length of curve and return, but is cut out where 
 the curve occurs and thinned down to a quarter of an 
 inch. A solid block, as shown, is fastened to the floor 
 in the proper place, being curved to the right shape. 
 The newel is put in position, but is rebated out the 
 depth of the riser, as shown. The thin portion of the 
 riser is then steamed, glue is put on the block, and on 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 125 
 
 the thin portion of the riser that sits against -the block, 
 and when all is ready the short end of the riser is forced 
 in the rebate shown in the newel, and is gently bent 
 around the block as will be seen. If the work is done 
 well, the job will be complete and satisfactory. Some 
 workmen have concave cauls, or pieces of wood, cut 
 
 out to place 
 against the face 
 of the work and 
 wedge the m 
 tight against 
 the cur\^ed 
 riser, by any 
 device that 
 might suggest 
 itself. 
 
 An elevation 
 
 of the finished 
 
 step is shown 
 
 ^^'^' 2^- a t F i g . 28, 
 
 where the rounded tread and riser are seen returned 
 
 against the newel post base 
 
 The plan of 
 a p o r t i o n of 
 stair, as shown 
 at Fig. 29, is 
 given at Fig. 30. 
 Here is seen the 
 ends of the 
 treads as mi- 
 tered, the let- 
 ters WSindicate 
 the wall string, RS the rough string, and OS the out- 
 side string. The miters of the risers are shown at a^, 
 
 Fig. 29. 
 
126 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 which gives the miters as being cut against the string. 
 The square spots shown at B, B, B, B, are the 
 
 EWS 
 
 Fig. 30. 
 
 dovetail mortises for ends of the balusters. Fig. 29 
 simply shows the string receiving the treads and return 
 nosings. 
 
 The illustration shown at Fig. 31 represents a por- 
 tion of a flight of stairs, having cut strings, S, S, on 
 
 each side. The tread is 
 shown at / and the riser 
 at/. These are a cheap 
 kind of stair and are 
 nailed together. This 
 class of stair is gener- 
 ally intended to fit in 
 between walls or parti- 
 tions, the strings being 
 spiked to studding or 
 to board timbers or 
 wood bricks, as the case may be. 
 
 Fig. 31. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 127 
 
 HOW TO DETERMINE THE RISE AND GOING OF A 
 FLIGHT OF STAIRS 
 
 I have taken the following from Ellis' Practical 
 Treatise on Joiner s Work, because it seems to me to be 
 about the best thing written on the subject, at least, 
 the best I have come across. "The amount of going 
 and rise given depends chiefly upon the amount of 
 floor space allotted to them, and upon the height of the 
 story; but subject to these restrictions, there is room 
 for considerable variation. To obtain a stair that shall 
 not be fatiguing or awkward to ascend or descend, the 
 going should bear a certain ratio to the rise. Various 
 methods have been proposed by writers on the subject 
 to obtain the ratio, of which the following are the best 
 known and most practiced: 
 
 "i. It is assumed that the average length of step in 
 walking on the level is 24 in., and that it is twice as 
 difficult or fatiguing to climb upward as it is to walk 
 forward. From these premises it is deduced that one 
 going one step forward, plus two rises or steps upward, 
 should e(|ual 24 in., which put in the form of a rule 
 becomes, 
 
 ''To Find the Rise Whe?i the Going Is Know?i. — Subtract 
 the given going from 24 in., and divide the remainder 
 by 2 for the rise. 
 
 ' ' To Find tlie Going WJien tlie Rise Is K?iozvn. — Multiply 
 the given rise by 2, and subtract the product from 24. 
 The remainder is the proportionate going required. 
 
 "2. The product of the going and rise multiplied 
 together is to equal 66. Example: Going 11 in. 
 X 6 in. = 66, and 7 in. rise x gf in. = 66. Rule by this 
 method: Divide 66 by the given rise or going to ascer- 
 tain the proportionate going or rise. 
 
J 28 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 "3. Assume 12 in. going and 53^ in. rise as a standard 
 ratio. To find any other, for each addition of ^ in. 
 to the rise, subtract i in. from the going. Example: 
 Rise 6 in., going 11 in.; rise 7 in., going 9 in. It will 
 be noted that by this method the sum of 2 rises plus 
 the going equals 23, which affords an easier stair than 
 the first-mentioned method. 
 
 "When the total rise of the stair is known, as shown 
 by the story rod, Fig. 32, and the approximate rise of 
 
 the step is given, 
 the exact rise is 
 obtained by cal- 
 culation, thus: Re- 
 duce the total 
 height to inches, 
 and divide it by 
 the desired rise. 
 If there is no re- 
 mainder, the divi- 
 sor will be exact 
 rise, and the quo- 
 tient will be the 
 number of risers 
 required. If there is a remainder, again divide the 
 sum by the quotient, discarding the fraction, and the 
 result will be the exact rise. For instance, let the 
 height of the story be 10 ft. 6 in., and the proposed 
 riser 6>4 in. 10 ft. 6 in. = 126 in. -^ 6^2 in. = 19 with 
 5 remainder; then 126 in. ^ 19 = 6^ in. full as the rise, 
 and the proper ratio of going to this, as found by the 
 first method, is 6|x2=i3;4^-24=io3/( ; but the exact 
 going is found by dividing the plan into 18 equal parts, 
 as there is always one less tread than the number of 
 risers, in consequence of the landing acting as tread 
 
 Fig. 32. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 129 
 
 for the last riser. No arbitrary rule can be given for 
 the treatxiient of the plan, which must be subject to 
 circumstances. Every attempt should be made, how- 
 ever, to dispense with winders, which should be intro- 
 duced in case of necessity, when they are better placed 
 at the top of a flight than at the bottom." 
 
 All stairs should be so devised that not less than 6 ft. 
 6 in., head-room between tread and trimmer, is given, 
 but, as shown in Fig. 32, it is much better to give this 
 much space from the going line to the trimmer, then 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 there will be no danger of a tall man striking the trimmer 
 with his hat on his head. There will be cases, of course, 
 where to give so much space for head-room will be 
 impossible, but in ordinary stairways any less space than 
 that determined will surely prove unsatisfactory. 
 
 VARIOUS PLANS FOR STAIRS 
 
 A newel or landing stair can be devised that it will 
 serve the purpose for almost any possible contingency; 
 
I30 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 and in order to make this plain I show a number of 
 plans, which I am sure will prove of use to the general 
 workman as well as to the stair-builder, as they offer 
 hints and suggestions for dealing with almost every 
 condition and situation that are likely to present them- 
 selves in preparing plans for stair runs which are 
 intended to be of the platform style. 
 
 In Fig. 33, I showed a plan of a stair having two 
 landings, and a circular-ended step, with dotted lines 
 showing trimmer timbers. At Fig. 34, I show another 
 plan with the order of going reversed, and with the 
 flight between the landings having a less number of 
 
 steps. Fig. 34 only shows 
 
 five risers, while Fig. 33 
 
 shows nine risers. The lat- 
 
 tei example also shows the 
 
 two lower steps rounded off 
 
 to fit against the newel post. 
 
 =^ The flight shown in Fig. 34 
 
 is supposed to be built in 
 
 between studded partitions 
 
 while the stairs shown in Fig. 33 are built in between 
 
 brick walls. 
 
 Fig. 34 shows a plan of stair in the Time St. Depot, 
 Liverpool, England. This is rather a peculiar stair- 
 way, as from the third landing the stair starts off in 
 two directions so as to reach different parts of the 
 building more conveniently. The plan shown at 
 Fig. 35 illustrates an elaborate entrance and stairway 
 to the National Gallery of Arts, London. This is a 
 peculiar stairway inasmuch as there are two flights 
 leading up to a large platform where the upper flights 
 broaden out and carry the visitor to the upper floor 
 either to the right or to the left. This is rather an 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 / 
 
 r-i 
 
 HBH^IB 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 1 1 liiiii;'. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 131 
 
 Fig- 35- 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 ingenious arrange- 
 ment and might be 
 made use of in many 
 instances for public 
 buildings. 
 
 An effective ar- 
 rangement for a hall 
 stair is shown at Fig. 
 36, where a short 
 flight of stairs lead 
 to a raised dais from 
 which a second flight 
 of stair springs, in 
 which there are two 
 landings. The rail 
 over the lower flight 
 runs from two start- 
 ing newels, and fin- 
 
132 
 
 COM]\rON-SENSE IIANDRAILING 
 
 
 
 
 E^ 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 r-.-.-t 
 
 
 i~* -~ 
 
 A ishes against columns having their 
 
 base on the plinth of the dais. The 
 windows in the rear of the hall are 
 filled with art glass, and the whole 
 is artistic and impressive. 
 
 A series of sketches "for plans is 
 shown at Fig. 37. A shows a stair 
 with five landings, the first step 
 B being situated in the center. B ex- 
 
 hibits a similar stair with three land- 
 ings. C shows a stair with three 
 landings and two starting flights 
 leading to a wider flight above. D 
 shows a flight with two landings 
 and having but one starting point. 
 This is a common kind of stair and 
 much in vogue, but lacks architect- 
 ural effect; either of the plans 
 shown at A, B, C, is preferable 
 from an artistic point of view than 
 the plan shown at D. 
 
 Another series of plans is shown 
 at Fig. 38, which show the relation 
 of the stair to other portions of the 
 house. No. I shows an ordinary 
 
 No. 
 ig two land- 
 ings. This is an artistic flight and 
 is always effective. No. 3 is some- 
 thing like No. 2, only reversed, and 
 Fig- 37- '^ lighted by a window on the top 
 
 landing. This also, makes a very 
 effective stair for a middle class dwelling, and always 
 looks well if finished in hardwood. 
 
 
 
 
 =^ 
 
 1 -1 
 
 <r— 
 
 [l iiiji i flight with landing at the top. 
 ■ II "l )i^__^-_ ^ shows a fli'jht havinij two 
 
 — -? 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 133 
 
 Another series of plans is shown at Fig. 39, with 
 parts of the plans of the buildings along with them. 
 No. I shows a stair with two landings and a "step-off," 
 on the second landing at O, leading to rooms over the 
 kitchen which are used for the domestics. No. 2 
 shows a very different arrangement, the stairs being 
 built in an inner hall which leads into a conservatory. 
 The plan shown at No. 3 is very much in vogue at the 
 present time, and is really a very good style of stair. 
 
 A very good "lay-out" for a hall and stairway is 
 shown at Fig. 40. Entrance to dining-room, drawing- 
 
 yUii "^ ■■ fe 
 
 ^^3p- 
 
 ?1m7^_ 
 
 Fig. 38. 
 
 room and library is gained direct from the hall, and the 
 hall is entered from the street by way of vestibule as 
 shown. Access also to kitchen and outer offices, is also 
 obtained from the hall. The stairs are well arranged 
 with wide platform and is well lighted by two windows 
 over the platform; the windows being filled with suita- 
 ble art glass. This particular arrangement of hall, 
 stairs and rooms is worthy of being thought over by 
 those of my readers who may have anything to do with 
 designing floor plans. 
 
 I think I have now given a sufficient number of plans 
 
134 
 
 COMMOX-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 to enable the workman to "la>--otf" a stairway that will 
 "fit" in almost any situation, or at least to suggest to 
 
 K^.tt^.oi 
 
 
 Fig. 39- 
 him how the difficulty may be worked out, so I will now 
 leave this subject, feeling that 1 have done it full justice, 
 
 NEWELS, NEWEL POSTS, BALUSTERS, AND ORNA- 
 MENTAL BALUSTERS 
 
 The different styles of newels and newel posts are 
 without number, and I will not make an\' attempt 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 135 
 
 to describe or 
 illustrate more 
 than will give the 
 workman an idea 
 of those most com- 
 mon in use at the 
 present time, and 
 a few elaborate 
 ones now in exist- 
 ence that were de- 
 signed and set up 
 by old workmen. 
 The sketch 
 showm at Fig. 41 
 
 Fig. 40. 
 
 Fig. 41, 
 
136 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 is a design for a large hall and stairway, and is in 
 Mercer's Hall, London; the stair is supported on col- 
 umns, and shows three landings with balusters and 
 newels. It will be noticed the long flight is last, lead- 
 ing up to the floor. This seems to be a rule with 
 English stairways, as it is argued that there is a longer 
 
 Fig. 42. 
 
 rest at the top, therefore the long rest comes after the 
 long rise. 
 
 Another and still more elaborate staircase is shown 
 at Fig. 42. This is a stately and palatial class of stairs 
 and consists of central flights branching off into lateral 
 flights, surrounded by a gallery separated by columns 
 or arches. This shows the main stairway and hall of 
 the opera house, Paris, France. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 13) 
 
 The two lateral flights lead to a spacious landing, 
 from which a wicie curvilinear-shaped flight of stairs 
 ascends with wing stairs to the gallery. The elegant 
 and graceful lines of this staircase make it almost 
 unique among great modern examples. The architect 
 has introduced the ramping arch below^ the flights, and 
 by curving the balustrades outward has given ease of 
 ascent and grace of outline. Round the gallery rise 
 coupled columns of red polished granite with Ionic 
 capitals carrying entablatures and arches, above which 
 runs a rich truss cornice. Over the cornice on each side 
 are rows of lunettes, surmounted by the fine vaulted 
 quadrangular domical ceiling. Much of the grandeur 
 of this staircase is due to the surrounding gallery, 
 which impresses the visitor on ascending. The mag- 
 nificence of the e scalier d'Jioniieiir is height-ened by the 
 arrangement of the minor stair and the open loggia and 
 vestibule. As a model of planning the Paris Opera 
 House stands pre-eminent. It forms a long rectangle, 
 flanked by projecting annexes, which give much variety 
 to its length. There are three parts or divisions sym- 
 metrically disposed to the major and minor axes: the 
 stage occupying the whole breadth of the building; the 
 theater proper, or auditorium, forming the center of 
 the building, and including the grand staircase; and, 
 lastly, the promenade and open loggia in front. The 
 staircase hall forms a square and complete structure 
 between the foyer or promenade and auditorium, and 
 is surrounded by corridors. The plan of this building- 
 is an instance of the centralizing mind of the French; 
 every organic function is expressed in the structure. 
 In a large public building the staircase performs an 
 essentially distinct and public function, and too much 
 prominence cannot be bestowed upon it. 
 
13S 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 The iu;wels and panel-car\'ed balustrade shown at 
 Fig. 43 exhibits an extremely rich example of six- 
 teenth century work. All this is taken from work still 
 standing" in a house at Greenwich, England. 
 
 I^^ig- 43- 
 
 The interior of the house is very nearly in its original 
 state. There is a very curious internal court. The 
 rooms have several good door-cases and ornamental 
 plaster ceilings. 
 
 Fig. 44 is a plan of the stairs, showing the double 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 139 
 
 approach. The sketch, Fig. 45, shows the half section 
 of handrail. Fig. 46 shows section of the entablature 
 under steps with the carved pendant under newel; and 
 Fig". 47 shows the top of one of the newels at large 
 Stairs finished in this manner are ; 
 
 coming into ^'ogue again, and a num- 
 ber of similar ones have been built in 
 our larger cities where cost was only 
 a secondary consideration. Stairs of 
 this kind, to be effective, should be 
 massi\^e in appearance; the newels 
 should be heavy and the carving done 
 in the solid. The newels in the 
 
 Fig. 44. Fig. 45. 
 
 example shown, are rather light in appearance, but 
 the whole mass is quite impressive. The details, 
 Figs. 45, 46 and 47, are left to a larger scale than the 
 main illustration so that the workman may the easier 
 enlarge and copy them for actual work, if he so desires. 
 
140 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig. 46. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 141 
 
 A flight of stairs with newels, having carved balus- 
 trade, strings and newels, is shown at Fig. 48. This is a 
 
 
 Fig. 48. 
 
 French design, and has a very broad rail elaborately 
 wrought. The carved string is a special feature of this 
 
142 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 example, so also are the square car\'ed vases that sur- 
 mount the newels. It will be noticed that the newels 
 in this example are much larger in section than those 
 
 shown in Fig. 43. 
 This is, I think, a 
 gain in appearance. 
 It will be noticed 
 that the central orna- 
 ment on the finished 
 faces of the newels 
 is partly turned and 
 partly carved, so 
 must necessarily be 
 planted on, as are 
 perhaps the other 
 carvings. 
 
 A curious example 
 of a newel post is 
 shown at Fig. 49, 
 ^ which represents a 
 portion of a stair- 
 way in the Hotel 
 Cluny, Paris, France. 
 The stair has a close 
 heavy rectangular 
 string with carved 
 rosettes sunk flush 
 on both sides. The 
 balusters are square 
 in section and are 
 massive, with all the 
 mouldings worked on the rake of the stairs on two 
 sides, and square across on the upper and lower sides. 
 This style of baluster is quite common in Europe and 
 
 Fig. 49. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 143 
 
 is really quite effective. Another peculiarity of . this 
 
 Fig. 50. 
 
 stair is the upper portion of the newel which runs up 
 to the ceiling, and is carved on its four faces with 
 
144 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 \'ari()us rniblcmatlcal devices. This giN'cs the whole 
 work rather an odd appearance. 
 
 A modern stairway with landinj^s is shown at Fig. 
 50. This ..is in Colonial style and has a very cozy and 
 inviting appearance. This example is taken from a 
 New England house, and is noted for the width of 
 stairway and breadth of tread; the rise being little 
 more than five inches. A peculiarity of this stairway 
 is the twin newels at the main landing. This is a 
 departure from the general practice, and is employed 
 here for [architectural effect. The newels are plain, 
 yet they are quite effective. The balusters are heavy 
 and placed pretty close together. 
 
 Another staircase of recent design and intended for 
 a house in Philadelphia, Pa., is illustrated at Fig. 51. 
 This is in Colonial style and shows a semi-circular 
 finish on end of bottom tread and riser. Sections of the 
 newels are octagon, and the rails are finished against 
 the newels with a "goose-neck" curve and square. 
 The landing turns at right angles. 
 
 The illustration offers a number of excellent sugges- 
 tions for work other than for the stairs. 
 
 The examples shown of stairs in place, I think, are 
 quite enough to give the workman an idea as to their 
 treatment, so I will now offer a few designs for newels 
 and balusters, and a few remarks as to their treatment. 
 
 There is no end to designs for newel posts, yet it is 
 a strange fact that when a workman undertakes to 
 design a newel for any particular stair he may be 
 building, he finds it very dif^cult to decide upon the 
 exact design he has in mind. This is owing to the 
 fact that the workman possesses a certain amount of 
 art instinct, and his mind requires for its satisfaction 
 a newel suited to the fitness of the situation. An 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 145 
 
 Fig. 51. 
 
146 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 elaborate stairvva}^ demands an elaborate newel and 
 baluster, yet both must be in keeping with the surround- 
 ings as well as in keeping with the stairway. A good 
 
 Fig. 52. 
 
 illustration of this is exemplified in Fig. 51, where all 
 the w^ork seems to ha\'e a like character. Another 
 illustration of the true fitness of things is shown in 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 M7 
 
 Fig. 52. In this example there is a quiet Quaker-like 
 
 repose both in stairway and finish, yet the observer 
 
 cannot but be impressed with the wealth and dignity 
 
 of the whole design. The newels are comparatively 
 
 plain, yet they are effective and seem to be in the 
 
 proper place. The whole stairway, paneling, strings, 
 
 newels and balusters 
 
 are in same finish as 
 
 the woodwork in the 
 
 hall. The mantel, 
 
 which is quite plain, is 
 
 chaste and in keeping 
 
 with the general design. _ 
 
 The first step is semi- V-^jhji 
 
 circular at each end ^^— 
 
 being returned against 
 
 the newels. This stair 
 
 and its appointments 
 
 are well fitted for a 
 
 Colonial house of the 
 
 earlier period; in fact, 
 
 it would do for almost 
 
 any period of Colonial 
 
 architecture. 
 
 The sketches shown 
 at Figs. 53 and 54 ex- 
 hibit styles of stairs, 
 newels and balusters in 
 
 Elizabethan style. The balusters in Fig. 53 are 
 square, and those running down the strings are worked 
 on a rake; all the members being cut on the same 
 incline as the "lay" of the string and rail. This is, of 
 course, expensive, but it gives a fine appearance to the 
 stairs. The sketch shown in Fig. 54 is taken from 
 
148 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 French work. It shows three balusters on each tread 
 and carved brackets under end of nosing of treads. 
 The plan of the rail is shown in the sketch at 3. The 
 balusters are turned spiral, as will be seen. An 
 alternate baluster is shown at No. 2. 
 
 I have given the proportion of riser and treads in an 
 earlier paragraph, and it may be well at this point to 
 
 say something re- 
 garding the height 
 a rail should be 
 from the tread. An 
 authority says "that 
 the height from the 
 treads at the nosings 
 to the upper part of 
 the handrail should 
 be 2 ft. 7>^ in.; at 
 the landings the 
 height of half the 
 riser should be 
 added, this varia- 
 tion in the height 
 conducing to ease 
 and safety, a person 
 requiring more pro- 
 tection when he is 
 standing on a landing than when ascending a stairs. 
 Two balusters are generally placed on every tread, 
 one on the same plane as the riser. In the old close 
 string staircases, where massive rectangular or turned 
 balusters are seen, one to each step is common. Of 
 handrails, the moulded is the handsomest; a roll mem- 
 ber with cymas on each side, and a deep rail moulded 
 at the sides with ovolos or astragals, is commonly met 
 
 Fig. 54. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 149 
 
 with in the older examples and is very effective. 
 (See sketch 54, 2, above.)" 
 
 In a recent text book on building construction the 
 student is instructed, before planning a staircase, to 
 know the position of doors and windows surrounding, 
 so that the steps and the first and last riser may be 
 
 1^\^- 55- 
 
 fixed accordingl}\ Advice of this kind is very well 
 when a staircase has to be fitted in a given space; but the 
 architect, in planning and designing the stairs, ought 
 to proceed quite differently. He should first plan his 
 stairs, as being the most important thing, and then 
 arrange the hall thereto. The "going" of the flight 
 or the positions of the first and last risers should not 
 
ISO 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 be made to depend on the doorways and approaches, 
 but these should be adjusted to the risers. Given a 
 space to design a stairs in, it may be a mode of pro- 
 ceeding in some cases; but if any attempt is made to 
 give the staircase a character of its own, its design 
 should be undertaken /><?n/<75^?/ with the hall in which 
 it is to be placed. No architectural arrangement can 
 
 Fig. 56. 
 
 I^e possible under any other conditions. 
 
 Another style of stair is shown at Fig. 55, having 
 turned newels at the bottom and square ones at the 
 landings. This is a purely Colonial stair with the con- 
 ventional shaped newel and baluster All the rails in 
 stairs of this kind are made straight and are fastened 
 into the newels with either tenon or stair bolts or both, 
 and glued. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 151 
 
 The stair shown at Fig. 56 is taken from an English 
 example of the Georgeon period. Both rail and newel 
 are heav\', the latter being surmounted by a carved 
 finial. In this example the risers are low and the 
 treads wide, a characteristic of nearly all English 
 stairs, a custom well worthy of imitation. The heavy 
 newels employed in this stair give the whole design a 
 
 Fig. 57- 
 
 massive and substantial appearance. Of course, where 
 a stair of this kind is intended to be placed, it must 
 have plenty of room, as the run or "going'' will require 
 a good stretch owing to great width of tread, and the 
 hall or reception room must be large to accommodate 
 the stairs and be in keeping with them. 
 
 At Fig. 57, I show a portion of a stair having serpen- 
 tine newel and baluster. This style of work is \ery 
 
152 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 euTTONs-pOOOOOO 
 
 BRACKETS' 
 
 Fig. 58. 
 
 troublesome and is not much in favor, as the results 
 are not in proportion to labor expended. A, A shows 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 153 
 
 the style of rail which generally accompanies this 
 style of ornamentation. 
 
154 
 
 COiMMON-SENSE HANDRAILTNG 
 
 ^; :;vwyyv^^ ;f^ 
 
 ^''^^5^^5W^^;!^ 
 
 0) 
 
 ^^ 1 
 
 Fig. 6o. 
 
 The illustration 
 which is shown at Fig. 
 58 is adapted from Car- 
 pentry a}id Biiildmg, and 
 is a good example of a 
 modern stair. The pan- 
 eling between the bal 
 uster at the top, marked 
 A, is perforated. The 
 treatment of the string 
 is somewhat unusual, 
 and it will be noticed 
 that the nosings on the 
 treads are worked to a 
 flat ogee. The drop 
 newel is quite plain, 
 except the top, which 
 is very nicely wrought. 
 The rail enters the top 
 newel with a goose-neck 
 curve. The rosettes on 
 the string are let in 
 flush. The section of 
 the fluted shaft of newel 
 is circular, as showm 
 b}' the shaded portion. 
 Details of rail and 
 treads are shown on the 
 top of illustration. 
 
 Another style of 
 stairs is shown at Fi:;. 
 59. A part of the pan- 
 eled wainscot is shown, 
 also lower spandril and 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 155 
 
 Fig. 61. 
 
156 COMMON-SENSE PIANDRAILING 
 
 paneling of platform. Fig. 60 shows a portion of the 
 newel and a baluster with section of rail drawn to a 
 larger scale. 
 
 Fig. 63. 
 
 Fig. 61 shows a built-up newel, and a couple of tread 
 ends and a part of baluster; it also shows the rail with 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 157 
 
 ramp entering the newel post. The bottom tread is 
 partly returned against the base of newel. 
 
 The example shown in Fig. 62 may be put down as 
 one seldom required in this country, though I have 
 
 f-l>. 
 
 Fig. 64. 
 
 seen it, or one very similar, employed on a stairway 
 leading to a gallery or speaker's platform. It is 
 almost a solid balustrade. 
 
 Fig. 63 is of a style often employed in and about 
 public buildings in England, Belgium and France. 
 
^58 
 
 COMMON-SENvSE HANDRAILING 
 
 In styles of this kirid there is no regularity; the newels 
 and balusters may be of a different pattern on each 
 flight of stairs; they offer an abundance of opportunity 
 for a display of originality of design on the part of the 
 architect. 
 
 The example shown at Fig. 64 is taken from a stair- 
 way in St. Jacob's Church, Bruges. The newel is a 
 
 carved figure 
 which is said to 
 be one of the 
 finest pieces of 
 carving in Eu- 
 rope. The rail 
 and sub-rail are 
 heavy, and the 
 spaces between 
 them are filled 
 with fine carvings 
 instead of balus- 
 ters. The string 
 is also carved 
 with a running 
 wreath. The 
 whole is made of 
 heavy oak. The 
 work is over two 
 hundred years 
 old and is in excellent preservation at this date. 
 
 A couple of commonplace newels are illustrated at 
 Figs. 65 and 66. The first is simply a turned post with 
 an octagon base and flat facets, or neck, and surbase. 
 The second example belongs to the so-called Queen 
 Anne style. It is neither more nor less than a square 
 post with a few ornaments worked on two sides on a 
 
 Fig. 65. 
 
 Fig. 66. 
 
B'OURTH METHOD 
 
 159 
 
 rake with the line of rail, and has chamfered corners. 
 
 The ornaments are worked 
 
 square across the lower and 
 
 upper faces from the lines of 
 
 the raking ornaments where 
 
 they cut the angles of the 
 
 post. 
 
 The example of newel 
 shown in Fig. 67 is from the 
 Cincinnati school of design, 
 of which Benn Pitman was 
 principal. This newel was 
 carved by a young lady. Miss 
 Louise Nourse, and is worked 
 to over two inches relief pro- 
 jecting one inch over the 
 border. The entire height 
 of a newel is 4 ft. 9 in. It is 
 illustrated here as an exam- 
 ple of what may be done by 
 the ordinary workman if he 
 only apply himself to the 
 task. Newel posts offer 
 splendid opportunities to the 
 carver. 
 
 The newels shown at Figs. 
 68 and 69 are octagon in sec- 
 tion and are rather elaborate 
 in finish. This style of 
 newel is often made use of, 
 but I confess I do not like 
 them; they seem more like 
 
 pedestals than newels, and are certainly vulgar when 
 made up with different colored woods. They are also 
 
i6o COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILTNG 
 
 unnecessarily costly, as they entail considerable labor 
 in the making up; particularly is this true of Fig. 68, 
 
 u T i Sil }j'iSVW^ 
 
 Fig. 68. 
 
 
 Fig. 69. 
 
 as all the mouldings must be mitered around the cap 
 and the base. The result is not worth the labor, as the 
 architectural effect is disappointing. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 i6i 
 
 I will close my remarks on 
 newels and newel posts by offer- 
 ing a few examples of quaint 
 design culled from domestic and 
 foreign sources; the example 
 shown at Fig. 70 is taken from 
 a stairway in Boston. This is a 
 handsome design, but has one 
 fault: the central column looks 
 too much like a screw. It gives 
 one the impression of a jack screw 
 for raising great weights. If this 
 column was fluted, the effect 
 would be much more pleasing. 
 
 The carved newel shown at Fig. 
 71 is drawn from an example at 
 
 Argeles on the Spanish 
 frontier near the Pyrenees. 
 The one shown at Fig. 72 is 
 at Tuz, a small town near 
 Argeles. 
 
 The three examples shown 
 
 1 at Figs. 73, 74 and 75 are 
 
 .^ from the same neighborhood 
 
 as are those shown in Figs. 
 
 ^yV^j-,:^"^J 71 and 72. They are quaint 
 
 A^?^s^,l3(| and odd, and are generally 
 
 Fig. 71. 
 
 placed in small narrow halls 
 dimly lighted, and are apt to 
 
i62 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fig. 72. 
 
 startle a stranger when he first 
 enters. The examples offered are 
 among the best, but there are 
 some that rise above the head, 
 and are topped off with hideous 
 faces or grinning skulls and other 
 uncanny things. 
 
 BALUSTERS OF VARIOUS KINDS 
 
 Before giving any designs for 
 balusters, it may be well to say 
 ■- something about their arrange- 
 ment with regard to their relation 
 of length, rail and tread. Some- 
 times the architect who designs 
 the stair may have very decided 
 ideas as to the manner of arrang- 
 
 Fig. n- 
 
 Fig. 74- 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 163 
 
 ing the balusters, and I give a few examples arranged 
 differently in a stair having rail, string and baluster 
 about the same. Fig. 76 shows one of the ordinary 
 methods where the turnings are all of one length, and 
 thus all the squares 
 run parallel with 
 the handrail. In 
 Fig. 'jj the turn- 
 ings are of two 
 different lengths, 
 the upper squares 
 being all of one 
 length and running 
 parallel with the 
 handrail, the bot- 
 tom squares being 
 all the same length 
 and thus each pair 
 being parallel with 
 their respective 
 treads, the middle 
 member of the 
 turning usually 
 being arranged as 
 shown. A method 
 that is perhaps 
 not much in gen- 
 eral use is shown 
 in Fig. 78, where 
 
 the turnings are all of the same length and the bottom 
 squares equal, but the bottom ledges of the upper 
 squares of each baluster run parallel with their 
 respective treads, producing long and short upper 
 squares alternately, as shown. It will be seen that 
 
 Fig- 75- 
 
164 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 after all the difference in these examples is altogether 
 in the lengths of the turned part of the baluster, 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 165 
 
 The patterns for balusters shown 
 at Fig. 79 may be suggestive. Bal- 
 usters of this kind may be obtained 
 at any well-equipped factory any 
 length or size that may be required. 
 
 A few Colonial balusters and a 
 spiral newel are shown at Fig. 80. 
 This makes a handsome termination 
 for a stairway. 
 
 iVopon^JoiiCAje. 
 
 At 3««on(l floor 
 Fig. 81. 
 
 Fig. 79. 
 
 Fig. 80. 
 
 Samples of spi- 
 ral balusters, with 
 rail, newel, string 
 and drop, are 
 shown at Fig. 81. 
 In this example 
 the balusters are 
 
i66 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 shown r e i n - 
 forced by bent 
 iron scroll 
 work; this has 
 a charming 
 effect in many 
 cases, and I 
 know of one in- 
 stance, in New 
 York City, 
 where the scroll 
 work was of 
 brass, the bal- 
 usters enam- 
 elled cream, the 
 rail solid ma- 
 hogany, and 
 the result was 
 actually beauti- 
 ful. The wood- 
 
 Fig. 83. 
 
 Fig. 82. 
 
 work in the hall was also 
 cream-colored, and the light 
 from the outside passed 
 through amber-colored glass. 
 Another style of baluster, 
 newel and string is exhib- 
 ited at Fig. 82. The newel 
 is formed at the first plat- 
 form, there being three risers 
 up to the platform. The 
 balusters are simple, and the 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 167 
 
 whole illustration is given here more to show the 
 method of raising the newel and balusters than for any 
 other purpose. 
 
 Another style of baluster, string and rail is shown 
 at Fig. 83. The baluster in this case is simply a square 
 with two of its sides bevelled and cut in between the 
 
 Fig. 84. 
 
 Fig. 85. 
 
 Fig. 86. Fig. 87. 
 
 rail and the sub-rail. The little panels running raking 
 with the rails are also cut in, or let into grooves in bal- 
 uster and rail. Other portions of the illustration are 
 self-explanatory. 
 
 These examples of newels and balusters, I think, are 
 sufificient, as trade catalogues from factory and shop, 
 
1 68 
 
 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 contaning hundreds of set designs, may be obtained 
 for the asking. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS 
 
 Under this head I purpose showing a few things not 
 generally included in works of this kind, but which 
 
 Fig. 90. 
 
 Fig. 89. 
 
 Fig. 91. 
 
 will be found very useful to the general workman as 
 well as to the specialist in stair-building. 
 
 The illustrations shown in Figs. 84 to 91, inclusive, 
 exhibit a number of different designs for stop cham- 
 
FOURTH METHOD 
 
 169 
 
 fering. These will be found useful in determining the 
 style of step for chamfering the corners of a newel 
 post, and in many other instances as well. Some of 
 these chamfers and stops are quite elaborate and will 
 require considerable labor to work them out in good 
 form; particularly is this true of Figs. 86 and 89, as 
 one has a concave and the other a convex surface, and 
 Fig. 89 has an ornamental termination. 
 
 Besides these styles of stops there are many others, 
 the simplest of which is just a bevel ending of any 
 pitch and the ogee ending, and 
 several others of which nearly 
 every workman is familiar. 
 
 The illustration shown at Fig. 92 
 gives the method of obtaining a 
 reduced pattern for a bracket as 
 required for the ends of winders 
 Upon the top edge of the bracket (^ 
 used for the flyers describe an 
 equilateral triangle. Divide the 
 contour of the bracket into a 
 number of parts, and draw lines 
 from divisions perpendicular to 
 the top or base of the triangle. 
 
 From these intersections diaw lines to the apex of the 
 triangle. Next mark upon the sides of the triangle, 
 from the apex, the length of the bracket required. 
 Join these points by a line, a a, which is parallel with 
 the base, and upon the points where the line cuts the 
 lines drawn to the apex, erect perpendiculars; make 
 them equal in length to the corresponding lines drawn 
 on the original bracket. 
 
 The eight illustrations shown in Fig. 93 give brackets 
 and sections of handrails of various kinds, and is 
 
 Fig. 92. 
 
170 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
 Fi.i?. 93. 
 
FOURTH METHOD 171 
 
 offered as a supplement to the page of handrail sec- 
 tions shown in part three of this work. In the exam- 
 ples given the centers of the curves forming the hand- 
 rails are given, and the sizes of the rails are marked on 
 the sections in two instances. The numbers 5 to 8, 
 inclusive, show patterns for brackets which may be 
 made to suit almost any style of stairs. Other pat- 
 terns will be found illustrated in previous pages of this 
 work in connection with examples of platform stairs. 
 
 TABLES 
 
 The following tables which are taken from the 
 Builder and Woodivorkcr^ but which 1 believe were first 
 prepared by TJie California Architect, will be found very 
 useful to those "figuring" on the run and rise of stairs. 
 The spacing of the lines of figures into groups aids the 
 eye in following the direction to the final point. 
 
 Directions : — In the column beginning wath the rise of 
 step desired, find the height of story from top of floor 
 to top of floor, then follow this line to the column 
 under risers, which gives the number of risers. In 
 the column under "treads" find the number of risers, 
 less one, and on this line under the column of width of 
 tread will be the length of run. 
 
172 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 
 
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A GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN 
 STAIR-BUILDING AND HAND- 
 RAILING 
 
 A Flight. — A continued series of steps without a break. 
 
 Axis. — In arcJiitechire an imaginary line through the 
 center of a column, etc., or its geometrical repre- 
 sentation; where different members are placed 
 over each other so that the same vertical line on 
 the elevation divides them equally, they are said to 
 be on the same axis, although they may be on 
 different planes; thus triglyphs and modillions 
 are so arranged that one coincides with the axis 
 or line of axis of each column; in like manner the 
 windows or other openings in the several stories 
 of a fa9ade must all be in the same respective axis 
 whether they are all of the same breadth or not. 
 In geometry, 'the straight line in a plane figure 
 about which it revolves to produce or generate a 
 solid. In mechanics, the axis of a balance is the 
 line upon which it moves or turns. In turning, an 
 imaginary line passing longitudinally through the 
 middle of the body to be turned, fr6m one point 
 to the other of the two cones, by which the work 
 is suspended or between the back center and the 
 center of the collar of the puppet which supports 
 the end of the mandril at the chuck. 
 
 175 
 
176 GLOSSARY 
 
 Baluster. — A small column or post turned of different 
 forms and sizes, forming an ornamental enclosure 
 and supporting the handrail; generally two to a step. 
 
 Balustrade. — A series or row of balusters joined by a 
 rail, serving for a rest to the arms, or as a fence or 
 enclosure to balconies, altars, staircases, etc. 
 Balustrades when intended for use or against 
 windows or flights of steps, terraces and the like, 
 should not be more than 3 feet 6 inches, nor less 
 than 3 feet in height. When used for ornament, 
 as on the summit of a building, their height maybe 
 from two-thirds to four-fifths of the entablature 
 whereon they are employed, and this proportion is 
 to be taken exclusive of their zoccolo or plinth, so 
 that from the proper point of sight the wdiole bal- 
 ustrade may be exposed to view. There are vari- 
 ous species of balusters; if single-bellied the best 
 way is to divide the total height of the space 
 allotted for the balustrade into thirteen equal 
 parts, the height of the baluster to be eight, of the 
 base three, and of the cornice two of those parts; 
 or divide the total height into fourteen parts, 
 making the baluster eight, the base four, and the 
 cornice two. If double-bellied the height should 
 be divided into fourteen parts, two of which are to 
 be given to the cornice, three to the base and the 
 remainder to the baluster. 
 
 The distance between two balusters should not 
 be more than half the diameter of the baluster in 
 
GLOSSARY 177 
 
 its thickest part, nor less than one-third of it; but 
 on inclined planes the intervals should not be 
 quite so wide. 
 
 Butt Joint. — An end joint made at right angles to the 
 central tangent of a wreath piece; and also an end 
 joint made at right angles to any straight length 
 of handrail. 
 
 Carriage. — The timber work which supports the steps 
 of a wooden stair. 
 
 Close String. — In dog-leg stairs a staircase without an 
 open newel. 
 
 Cockel Stairs, — A winding staircase. 
 
 Circular Stairs are stairs with steps planned in a circle 
 toward the center of which they all converge and 
 are all winders. 
 
 Curve-out. — A concave curve of the face of a front- 
 string at its starting. 
 
 Curtail Step. — The first step by which a stair is 
 ascended, finishing at the end in a form of a scroll 
 following the plan of the handrail. — NicJiolson. 
 
 Cylinder. — A cylinder is a solid described by geometri- 
 cians as generated by the rotation of a rectangle 
 about one of its sides supposed to be at rest; this 
 quiescent side is called the axis of the cylinder^ 
 therefore the base and top of the cylinder are 
 equal or similar circles. 
 
 K prism is a solid, whose base and top are similar 
 right line figures, with sides formed in planes, and 
 rising perpendicularly from the base to the top. 
 
178 GLOSSARY 
 
 The cylinder, so called hy joiners, is a solid figure 
 compounded of the two last mentioned figures; its 
 base is composed of a semicircle joined to a right- 
 angled parallelogram. This last compound figure 
 is intended whenever the word cylinder occurs in 
 the preceding work unless the word geometrical 
 be prefixed. 
 
 Dog-legged Stairs. — Such as are solid between the upper 
 flights, or those that have no well-hole; and the 
 rail and balusters of both the progressive and 
 retrogressive flight fall in the same vertical plane. 
 The steps are fixed to strings, newels and 
 carriages; and the ends of the steps of the inferior 
 kind terminate only on the side of the string. — 
 Nicholson. 
 
 Elliptic Stairs. — Stairs that are elliptic on the plan, the 
 treads all converging, but not to one center like 
 those of a circular stair. 
 
 Face Mould. — A section produced on any inclined plane 
 vertically over a curved plan of handrail. 
 
 Flight of Stairs. — In a staircase the series of steps 
 from one landing place to another. Thus the 
 same staircase between one floor and another may' 
 consist of more than one flight of steps, the flight 
 being reckoned from one landing to another. 
 
 Front String. — The string on that side of the stair over 
 which the handrail is placed. 
 
 Fillet. — A band i% inches wide by }^ inch thick 
 nailed to the face of a front string below the cove 
 and extending the width of a tread. 
 
GLOSSARY 179 
 
 Flyers. — Steps in a flight that are parallel to each other. 
 
 Geometrical Stair. — A flight of stairs supported onl}^ by 
 the wall at one end of the steps. 
 
 Half-space, or resting place. — The interval between two 
 flights of steps in a staircase. 
 
 Hall. — The first large apartment on entering a house; 
 the public room of a corporative body ; a manor- 
 house. 
 
 Handrail. — A variously formed and sized rail running 
 parallel to the inclination of the stairs for holding 
 the balusters. 
 
 Hollow Newel. — An opening in the middle of the stair- 
 case. The term is used in contradistinction to 
 solid newel, into which the ends of the steps are 
 built. In the hollow newel, or well-hole, the steps 
 are onh' supported at one end by the surrounding 
 wall of the staircase, the ends next the hollow 
 being unsupported. — NicJiolsoii. 
 
 Helix. — The small twist under the head of a Corinthian 
 column. 
 
 Housing. — The space excavated out of a body, for the 
 insertion of some part of the extremity of another 
 in order to fasten the two together; thus the 
 string-board of a stair is most frequently exca- 
 vated, or notched out for the reception of steps. 
 The term is also applied to a niche for containing 
 a statue. — Nicholso?i. 
 
 Joint. — The surface of separation between two bodies 
 brought into contact and held firmly together, 
 
t8o glossary 
 
 either by some cementing medium or by the 
 weight of one body lying upon another. A joint 
 is not merely the contact of two surfaces, though 
 the nearer they approach the more perfect the 
 joint. In masonry the distance of the planes 
 intended to form a joint is comparatively consid- 
 erable because of the coarseness of the particles 
 which enter into the composition of the cement. 
 
 Kerf. — A slit or cut in a piece of timber or in a stone, 
 usually applied to that made by a saw or axe. 
 
 Keys. — In naked flooring, pieces of timber fixed in 
 between the joists by mortise and tenon; when 
 these are fastened with their ends projecting 
 against sides they are termed strutting pieces. 
 
 Keys.^Pieces inserted in boards to prevent warping. 
 
 Knee. — A convex bend in the back of a handrail. 
 
 Knee. — A part of the back of a handrailing of a convex 
 form, the reverse of a ramp, which is a back of a 
 handrail and is concave; also any piece of timber 
 bent to an angular joint. 
 
 Landing. — Horizontal resting-place in a flight. 
 
 Newel. — The central column around which the steps 
 of a circular staircase wind; the principal post at 
 the angles and foot of a staircase. 
 
 Newel. — In architecture the upright post or central 
 column around which the steps of a circular stair- 
 case are made to wind, being that part of the 
 staircase by which they are sustained. 
 The newel is properly a cylinder of stone or 
 
GLOSSARY i8i 
 
 wood, which bears on the ground and is formed by 
 the ends of the steps of the winding stairs. 
 
 There are also newels of wood, which are pieces 
 of wood placed perpendicularly, receiving the 
 tenons of the steps of wooden stairs into their 
 mortises, and wherein are fitted the shafts and 
 rests of the staircase and the flight of each story. 
 In some of the Tudor and Elizabethan residences 
 some very fine examples may be seen of the newel 
 richly ornamented and adding much to the beauty 
 of the staircase. — Nicholson. 
 
 Nosing. — The outer or front edge of the step. 
 
 Pitching Piece. — A horizontal timber with one of its 
 ends wedged into the wall at the top of a flight of 
 stairs to support the upper end of the rough 
 strings. 
 
 Pitch. — Angle of inclination of the stairs. 
 
 Pitch-boaxd. — A piece of thin board in the form of a 
 right-angled triangle, one of the sides of the right 
 angle equal to a rise. 
 
 Ramp. — A concave or convex curve or easement of an 
 angle, as sometimes required at the end of a 
 wreath or an adjoining straight rail. 
 
 Rise. — The vertical rise between the treads. 
 
 Riser. — The board forming the vertical portion of the 
 front of a step. 
 
 Run. — Of a flight of stairs, the horizontal distance 
 from the first to the last riser. 
 
 Scroll. — A carved curvilinear ornament, somewhat 
 
i82 GLOSSARY 
 
 resembling in profile the turnings of a ram's horn. 
 — Hatfield. 
 
 Splay. — A slanting or beveling in the sides of an 
 opening to a wall for a window or door, so that 
 the outside profile of the window is larger than 
 that of the inside; it is done for the purpose of 
 facilitating the admission of light. It is a term 
 applied to whatever has one side making an 
 oblique angle with the other; thus the headi;ig 
 joists of a boarded floor are frequently splayed in 
 their thickness. The word fluing is sometimes 
 applied to an aperture in the same sense as 
 splayed. 
 
 Spring Bevel of a Rail. — The angle made by the top of 
 the plank with a vertical plane touching the ends 
 of the rail piece which terminates the concave 
 side. 
 
 Squaring a Handrail. — The method of cutting a plank 
 to the form of a rail for a staircase so that all the 
 vertical sections may be right angles. 
 
 Spiral. — In geometry, a curve line of the circular kind, 
 which in its progress always recedes more and 
 more from its center. In architecture, a curve that 
 ascends winding about a cone or spire so that all 
 its points continually approach its axis. 
 
 Spandril. — The angle formed by a stairway. 
 
 Stairs (from the Saxon stceger). — In a building, the 
 steps whereby to ascend and descend from, one 
 story to another. 
 
GLOSSARY tSs 
 
 The breadth of the steps of stairs in general use in 
 common dwelling houses is from 9 to 12 inches, or 
 about 10 inches medium. In the best staircases 
 of fine houses or public edifices the breadth ought 
 never to be less than 12 inches nor more than 18 
 inches. It is a general maxim that the greater 
 breadth of a step requires less height than one of 
 less breadth; thus, a step of 12 inches in breadth 
 will require a rise of 7^ inches, which may be 
 taken as a standard by which to regulate those of 
 other dimensions; so that multiplying 12 inches 
 by 55^ we shall have 66; then supposing a step to 
 be 10 inches in breadth the height should be 
 66- 10 = 6| inches, which is nearly, if not exactly, 
 what common practice would allow. The propor- 
 tion of steps being thus regulated the next consid- 
 eration is the number requisite between two floors 
 or stories which will be ascertained by supposing 
 the breadth of the steps given, say 10 inches each, 
 as depending on the space allowed for the stair- 
 case, and this, according to the rule laid down, will 
 require a rise of nearly 7 inches; suppose then the 
 distance from floor to floor to be 13 feet 4 inches, 
 or 160 inches, 160-7 = 224, which would be the 
 number required; but as all the steps must be of 
 equal heights we should rather take 23 risers, pro- 
 vided the staircase room would allow it, and so 
 make the height of each somewhat less than 7 
 inches. 
 
i84 GLOSSARY 
 
 The most certain method of erecting a staircase 
 is to provide a rod of sufficient length to reach 
 from one floor to another, divided into as many 
 equal parts as the intended number of risers, and 
 try every step as it is set to its exact height. The 
 breadth of the staircase may be from 6 to 20 feet 
 according to the use or application of the building 
 or the form or proportions of the plan. 
 
 If the steps be less than 3 feet in length the 
 staircase becomes inconvenient for the passing of 
 furniture, as is frequently the case in small houses. 
 
 Though it is desirable to have such rules as are 
 here laid down for regulating the proportion of 
 the heights, breadths and lengths of steps, archi- 
 tects and workmen cannot be so strictly tied to 
 them but that they may vary them as circum- 
 stances may demand. — Nicholson. 
 Stairs are constructions composed of horizontal planes 
 elevated above each other, forming steps, afford- 
 ing the means of communication between the 
 different stories of a building. 
 
 In the distribution of a house of several stories 
 the stairs occupy an important place. In new 
 constructions their form maybe regular, but in the 
 reparation or remodeling of old buildings the first 
 consideration is generally to make the distribution 
 suitable for the living and sleeping rooms, and 
 then to convert to the use of the stairs the spaces 
 which may remain, giving to them such forms in 
 
GLOSwSARY 1S5 
 
 plan as will render them agreeable to the sight and 
 commodious in the use. 
 
 When houses began to be built in stories the 
 stairs were placed from story to story in straight 
 flights like ladders. They were erected on the 
 exterior of the building, and to shelter them when 
 so placed great projection was given to the roofs. 
 To save the extent of space required by straight 
 flights the stairs were made to turn upon them- 
 selves in a spiral form, and were inclosed in 
 turrets. A newel, either square or round, reach- 
 ing from the ground to the roof, served to sup- 
 port the inner ends of the steps, and the outer 
 ends were let into the walls or supported on 
 notched boards attached to the walls. 
 
 At a later period the stairs came to be inclosed 
 within the building itself, and for a long time pre- 
 served the spiral form which the former situation 
 had necessitated. 
 Defi7iitions. — The apartment in which the stair is placed 
 is called the staircase. 
 
 The horizontal part of a step is called the tread, 
 the vertical part the riser, the breadth or distance 
 from riser to riser \\\^ going, the distance from the 
 first to the last riser in a ^\g\\ti\\Q goi7ig of the flight. 
 
 When the risers are parallel with each other the 
 stairs are, of course, straight. 
 
 When the steps are narrower at one end than 
 the other they are termed winders. 
 
i86 GLOSSARY 
 
 When the "bottom step has a circular end it is 
 CdiWtd 2i romid-ended step ; when the end is formed 
 into a spiral it is called a cur tail step. 
 
 The wide step introduced as a resting place in 
 the ascent is a landing, and the top of a stair is 
 also so called. 
 
 When the landing occupies the whole width of 
 the staircase it is called a Jialf-space, 
 
 When the landing at a resting place is square it 
 is designated a quarter-space . 
 
 So much of a stair as is included between two 
 landings is called a flight, especially if the risers 
 are parallel with each other; the steps in this case 
 areyf/Vr^. 
 
 The outward edge of a step is named the nosi?ig; 
 if it projects beyond the riser so as to receive a 
 hollow moulding glued under it it is a moulded 
 nosi?ig. 
 
 A straight edge laid on the nosings represents 
 the angle of the stairs, and is denominated the line 
 of Closings. 
 
 The raking pieces which support the ends of the 
 steps are called strings. The inner one placed 
 against the wall is the wall string ; the other the 
 outer stri?ig. If the outer string be cut to miter 
 with the end of the riser it is a cut and mitered 
 string; but when the strings are grooved to receive 
 • the ends of the treads and risers they are said to 
 be housed, and the grooves are termed housings. 
 
GLOSSARY 187 
 
 Stairs in which the outer string of the upper 
 flight stands perpendicularly over that of the 
 lower flight are called dog-legged stairs, otherwise 
 newel stairs, from the fact of a piece of stuff called 
 a newel, being used as the axis of the spiral of the 
 stair; the newel is generally ornamented by turn- 
 ing, or in some other way. The outer strings in 
 such stairs are tenoned into the newel, as also are 
 the first and last risers of the flight. — Newla^id. 
 Staircase. — A term applied to the whole set of stairs, 
 with the walls supporting the steps, leading from 
 one story to another. The same staircase frequently 
 conducts to the top of the building, and thus con- 
 sists of as many stories as the building itself. 
 
 When the height of the story is considerable, 
 resting places become necessary, which go under 
 the name of quarter-spaces and half-spaces, accord- 
 ing as the passenger has to pass a right angle, or 
 two right angles; that is, as he has to describe a 
 quadrant or a semicircle. In very high stories 
 that admit of sufficient head-room, and where the 
 space allowed for the staircase is confined, the 
 staircase may have two revolutions in the height 
 of one story, which will lessen the height of the 
 steps; but in grand staircases only one revolution 
 can be admitted, the length and breadth of the 
 space on the plan being always proportioned to 
 the height of the building, so as to admit of fixed 
 proportions. 
 
i8S GLOSSARY 
 
 In contriving a grand edifice particular attention 
 must be paid to the situation of the space occupied 
 by the stairs, so as to give them the most easy 
 command of the rooms. 
 
 With regard to the lighting of a grand staircase, 
 a skylight, or rather lantern, is the most appropri- 
 ate; for the light thus admitted is powerful, and 
 the design admits of greater elegance; indeed, 
 where the staircase does not adjoin the exterior 
 w^alls this is the only method by which light can 
 be admitted. 
 
 In small buildings the position of the staircase 
 is indicated by the general distribution of the 
 plan, but in large edifices this is not so obvious, but 
 must at least be determined by considering natu- 
 rally its connection with other apartments. — • 
 Nicholson. 
 
 Straight Flight of Stairs is one in which the steps are 
 parallel and at right angles to the strings. 
 
 Steps (from the Saxon steep). — The degrees of a stair- 
 case, by which we rise, consisting of two parts, 
 one horizontal called treads, the other vertical 
 called risers. When steps are placed around the 
 circumference of a circle, or an ellipse, or any 
 segments of them, they are called winders, but 
 when the sides are straight they are called fliers. 
 The first, or lower step, with a scroll wrought 
 upon its end, according to the plan of the handrail, 
 is called the curtail step. 
 
GLOSSARY 189 
 
 Stretch-out. — A term applied to a surface that will just 
 cover a body so extended that all its parts are in a 
 plane, or may be made to coincide with a plane. 
 
 Scroll or Curtail Step.~The bottom step with the front 
 end shaped to receive the balusters around the 
 scroll of the handrail. 
 
 String or String-piece. — That part of a flight of stairs 
 which forms its ceiling or soffit. 
 
 String-board. — In wooden stairs the board next the 
 well-hole which receives the ends of the steps; its 
 face follows the direction of the well-hole, what- 
 ever the form; when curved it is frequently formed 
 in thicknesses glued together, though sometimes it 
 is got out of the solid like a handrail. 
 
 String-board. — In wooden stairs, a board placed next 
 to the well-hole, and terminating the ends of the 
 steps. The face of string-boards follows the 
 direction of the well-hole, whether it be prismatic 
 or an inverted cone. String-boards are sometimes 
 glued in several thicknesses with the fibers of the 
 wood running in the direction of the steps; some- 
 times they are wrought out of solid, like a 
 handrail, the grain of the wood being in the same 
 direction; and they are also glued up like 
 columns, viz., having the fibers vertical. Brackets 
 are most frequently placed upon the string-boards 
 and mitered into the risers. — Nicholson. 
 
 Tangent. — In geometry, a right line perpendicularly 
 raised on the extremity of a radius, which touches 
 
iQo GLOSSARY 
 
 a circle so that it would never cut it, although 
 
 indefinitely produced, or in other words, it would 
 
 never come within its circumference. 
 Step. — The horizontal board on which we tread. 
 Soffit. — The under side of an arch or moulding. 
 Tread. — The horizontal distance between the risers — 
 
 one of the equal divisions into which the flight i:: 
 
 divided; the top of the step. 
 Wall String. — The board placed against the wall to 
 
 receive the ends of the step. 
 Well. — The place occupied by the flight of stairs. The 
 
 space left beyond the ends of the steps is called 
 
 the well-hole. 
 Well Staircase. — A winding staircase of ascent or 
 
 descent, to different parts of a building, so called 
 
 from the walls inclosing it resembling a well; 
 
 called frequently a geometrical staircase. 
 Winders. — Stairs, steps not parallel to each other. 
 
 The winders are supported by rough pieces 
 
 called dearers , wedged into the wall and secured to 
 
 the strings. 
 
 When the front string is ornamented with brack- 
 ets it is called a bracketed stair. 
 
 Treads of triangular form used to turn an angle 
 
 or go round a curve. 
 Wreath. — The whole of a heliacally curved handrail. 
 Wreath Piece. — A portion of a wreath less than the 
 
 whole. 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 FIRST METHOD 
 
 Page 
 
 Preface 5 
 
 Advice to Young Workmen 9 
 
 Straight Flight of Stairs 11 
 
 Landing Stairs 1 1 
 
 Acute Landing and Cylinder 12 
 
 Obtuse Landing and Cylinder 12 
 
 Half-space and Two-step Landing 12 
 
 Quarter-space and Four Winders 13 
 
 Quarter-space and Six Winders 13 
 
 Half-space and Dancing Winders 14 
 
 Half-space, Cylinder and Dancing Winders 14 
 
 Circular Stairs 15 
 
 Diagram of Tangents 16 
 
 Curve of Face Mould 17 
 
 Explanatory Diagram 18 
 
 Rule for Turn-out 20 
 
 Steps and Risers 20 
 
 Line of Rail 21 
 
 Face Moulds 23 
 
 Facing Mould Lines 24 
 
 Acute Angle Stairs 26 
 
 Showing Mould and Pitch 27 
 
 Blocking Out 28 
 
 Constructing Cylinder 29 
 
 Stretch-out 30 
 
192 CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 Getting Bevels for Butts 31 
 
 Face Moulds and Stretch-outs 32 
 
 Ramps over Fliers 33 
 
 Moulds for Quarter-space Stairs 34 
 
 Stretch-out over Cylinder 36 
 
 Stretch-out over Winders 38 
 
 Laying Out Rail over Circular Well-hole 40 
 
 Face Moulds, Ramps and Stretch-outs 41 
 
 Final Remarks 42 
 
 SECOND METHOD 
 
 A Remark or Two 43 
 
 Given Treads and Risers 44 
 
 Use of Pitch-board 46 
 
 Stair Strings and Winders 47 
 
 Line Theory of Handrailing 49 
 
 Around a Cylinder 50 
 
 How to Obtain a Wreath 52 
 
 Squaring a Wreath 54 
 
 Twists and Cylinders 56 
 
 Cutting Wreath Square to Plank 57 
 
 Beveling Joints 58 
 
 THIRD METHOD 
 
 Line of Nosings 59 
 
 Rail over Level Landing 59 
 
 Face Moulds, Tangents and Joints 60 
 
 Center Lines for Rails . . . 60 
 
 Major and Minor Axes 61 
 
 Blocking Out for Wreath 62 
 
CONTENTS 193 
 
 Page 
 
 Rail in Position 63 
 
 Rail at Landing 64 
 
 Line of Quadrant 65 
 
 Lay-out of Pitches 66 
 
 Pitch in Cylinder, How Found 70 
 
 Bevels on Cylinder 71 
 
 Face Mould 72 
 
 Blocking Out 74 
 
 Plan of Quarter-space Rail 75 
 
 Wreath Worked Out "j-j 
 
 Tangents Unfolded 79 
 
 Ramp and Pitch 80 
 
 Stretch-out for Winders 81 
 
 Ramp and Templets 83 
 
 Method of Getting Face Moulds 84 
 
 Plan of Wreath, Risers and Tangents 85 
 
 Stretch-outs over Landing 86 
 
 Isometrical Sketch of Wreath 87 
 
 Stretch-out over Obtuse Landing 89 
 
 Wreath over Cylinder 90 
 
 Bevels for Butt Cuts 91 
 
 Falling Lines and Well 92 
 
 Use of Pitch-board 93 
 
 Wreath for Small Cylinder 94 
 
 Three Points in a Cylinder 96 
 
 Sliding the Face Moulds 96 
 
 Mould and Plank 97 
 
 Nine Sections of Handrails 99 
 
 General Glossary and Definitions 100 
 
194 CONTENTS 
 
 FOURTH METHOD 
 
 Page 
 
 A Philadelphia Stairway 145 
 
 A Sensible Stairway 146 
 
 A Continued Stair 149 
 
 A Quaint Stair 150 
 
 A Built-Up Newel 155 
 
 Built-Up Newels 160 
 
 Balusters with Brass Brackets 165 
 
 Cutting Miter Cap 114 
 
 Cutting Strings 115 
 
 Carriages for Strings 121 
 
 Carved Stairway 138 
 
 Carved Newel Top 140 
 
 Colonial Stairway 143 
 
 Carved Newel from Belgium 157 
 
 Columner Newel 161 
 
 Chamfering 167 
 
 Dovetailed Treads 119 
 
 Double Stairs 131 
 
 Details of Carved Stairway 139 
 
 Details of Rail and Finish 152 
 
 Difference in Balusters 164 
 
 Diminishing Brackets 169 
 
 Elevation of Stairs in 
 
 Elevation of Housed String 117 
 
 Ends of Steps 123 
 
 Elevation of Bull-Nose Steps 125 
 
 Elevation of Stairway 135 
 
 Elevation of Grand Entrance 136 
 
 Framing Platform Stairs 108 
 
 F'raming a Bull-Nose Step 112 
 
 P'our Plans of Stairs 132 
 
 Fancy Stair and Newel 156 
 
CONTENTS 195 
 
 Page 
 
 Grand Stairs with Landings 131 
 
 Grand Hall Stairs : 131 
 
 Head Room 128 
 
 Heavy Carv^ed Newels 141 
 
 Introduction to Method IV 99 
 
 Interior View of Stairway ^53 
 
 Newels and Platform Stairs 99 
 
 Newel Cap 1^3 
 
 Newel Miter Cap ii4 
 
 Nosings ^^^ 
 
 Nosing Solid 122 
 
 Newel and Baluster • • • 1 54 
 
 Open Strings I09 
 
 Open Newel Stairs no 
 
 Open String and Nosing 125 
 
 Outside Hall Plan I35 
 
 Odd Newels from France 161 
 
 Ornamental Stop Chamfering 168 
 
 Proportioning Treads and Risers lOO 
 
 Platforms 107 
 
 Plan of Stairs no 
 
 Plan of Tread and Riser 121 
 
 Plan of Showing Carriage Strings 126 
 
 Perspective of Open Stairs 126 
 
 Perspective of Carved Newel 142 
 
 Plain Newels 15^ 
 
 Pitman's Carved Newel I59 
 
 Patterns of Handrails 170 
 
 Rail and Baluster Fastenings 123 
 
 Raking and Straight Balusters I47 
 
 Strength of Stairs 107 
 
 Sketches of Cut Strings 118 
 
 Section of Bull-Nose Step 124 
 
 Section of Rail with Balusters 148 
 
196 CONTENTS 
 
 Page 
 
 Serpentine Newel and Balusters 151 
 
 Sections and Elevations of Stair 152 
 
 Some French Newels 162 
 
 Spanish Newels 163 
 
 Spiral Newel 165 
 
 Stop Chamfering 167 
 
 Styles of Brackets 170 
 
 Sections of Handrails 170 
 
 Two Landing Stairs 129 
 
 Three Landing Stairs 130 
 
 Three Plans of Stairs 133 
 
 Three Hall Plans of Stairs 134 
 
 Two Elevations of Stairs 166 
 
 Tables of Treads and Risers 171 
 
HOUSE PLAN SUPPLEMENT 
 
 PERSPECTIVE VIEWS 
 AND FLOOR PLANS 
 
 OF 
 
 Twentv-five Low and 
 Medium Priced Houses 
 
 Full and Complete Working Plans and Specifications oi' any of 
 these houses will be mailed at the low prices named, on the same 
 day the order is received. 
 
 OTHER PLANS 
 
 W^e illustrate in "Practical Uses of the Steel Square," Vol. 1 5 
 "Practical Uses of the Steel Square," Vol. II5 and "Modern 
 Carpentry," 75 other plans, 25 in each book, none of which are 
 duplicates of those we illustrate herein. 
 
 For further information, address 
 
 The Publishers. 
 
 Send All Orders for Plans to 
 
 Frederick J.Drake ^ Co. 
 
 2U-213 EAST MADISON ST.. CHICAGO 
 
25-HOUSE DESIGNS-25 
 
 ^TTITHOUT extra cost to our readers we have added to 
 ' ^ Common-Sense Handrailing and Stair Building the 
 
 perspective view and floor plans of twenty-five low and 
 medium priced houses, such as are being built by 90 per cent of 
 the home builders of to-day. We have given the sizes of the 
 houses, the cost of the plans and the estimated cost of the build 
 ings based on favorable conditions and exclusive of plumbing 
 and heating. 
 
 The extremely low prices at which we will sell these complete 
 working plans and specifications makes it possible for everyone 
 to have a set to be used, not only as a guide when building, but 
 also as a convenience in getting bids on the various kinds of work. 
 They can be made the basis of contract between the contractor 
 andthe home builder. They will save mistakes which cost money, 
 and they will prevent disputes, which are never settled satisfac- 
 torily to both parties. They will save money for the contractor, 
 because then it will not be necessary for the workmen to lose time 
 waiting for instructions. We are able to furnish these complete 
 plans at these prices because we sell so many and they are now 
 used in every known country of the world where frame houses are 
 built. The regular price of these plans, when ordered in the usual 
 manner, is from $50.00 to $75.00 per set, while our charge is but 
 $5. 00, at the same time furnishing them to you more complete and 
 better bound. 
 
of What Our Plans Consist 
 
 ALL OF OUR PLANS are accurately drawn one-quarter inch 
 scale to the foot. 
 We use only the best quality heavy Gallia Blue Print Paper 
 No. lOOOX, aking every precaution to have all the blue prints of 
 even color and every line and figure perfect and distinct. 
 We furnish for a complete set of plans : 
 
 FRONT ELEVATION ALL FLOOR PLANS 
 
 REAR ELEVATION CELLAR AND FOUNDATION PLANS 
 
 LEFT ELEVATION ALL NECESSARY INTERIOR DETAILS 
 RIGHT ELEVATION 
 
 Specifications consist of fifteen to twenty pages of typewritten 
 matter, giving full instructions for carrying out the work. 
 
 Both the plans and specifications are bound in cloth and 
 heavy water-proof paper in an artistic and substantial manner. 
 
 We guarantee all plans and specifications to be full, com- 
 plete and accurate in every particular. Every plan being 
 designed and drawn by a licensed architect. 
 
 Our equipment is so complete that we can mail to you the 
 same day the order is received, a compleLe set of plans and 
 specifications of any house illustrated herein. 
 
 Our large sales of these plans demonstrates to us the wisdom 
 of making these very low prices. 
 
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 53 
 
Remember 
 
 We can mail out the same day we receive the order 
 any complete set of working plans and specifications 
 we illustrate in this book. 
 
 Remember also 
 
 That, if you are going to build, complete working 
 plans and specifications always 
 
 Save Money 
 
 for both the owner and contractor. 
 
 They prevent mistakes and disputes. 
 They save time and money. 
 
 They tell you what you will get and what you 
 are to do. 
 
 54 
 
Estimated Cost 
 
 It is impossible for any one to estimate the cost of a 
 building and ha\'e the figures hold good in all sections 
 of the countr}'. 
 
 We do not claim to be able to do it. 
 
 The estimated cost of the houses we illustrate is 
 based on the most favorable conditions in all respects 
 and does not include Plumbing and Heating. 
 
 Possibly these houses cannot be built by you at the 
 prices we name because we have used minimum material 
 and labor prices as our basis. 
 
 The home builder should consult the Lumber 
 Dealer, the Hardware Dealer, and the Reliable Con- 
 tractors of his town. Their knowledge of conditions 
 in your particular locality makes them, and them onl\', 
 capable of making you a correct estimate of the cost. 
 
 •ss 
 
Fred T. Hodgson*s New (1905) Books For Builders 
 
 STEEL SQUARE 
 
 A TREATISE OF THE PRAOTiGAL USES OF 
 
 By FRED, T. HODGSON, Jtrchitect. 
 
 New and up-to-date. Published May 1st, 1903. Do not mistake this edition 
 for the one published over 20 years ago. 
 
 This is the latest practical work on 
 the Steel Square and its uses pub- 
 ished. It is thorough, accurate, clear 
 and east y understood. Confounding 
 terms and phrases have been relig- 
 iously avoided where possible, 
 
 and everything in the book has been 
 made so plain that a boy twelve years 
 of age, possessing ordinary intelli- 
 gence, can understand it from begin- 
 ning to end. 
 
 It is an exhaustive work including 
 some very ingenious devices for laying 
 out bevels for rafters, braces and other 
 inclined work; also chapters on the 
 Square as a calculating machine, show- 
 ing how to measure Solids, Surfaces 
 and Distances — very useful to builders 
 and estimators. Cnapters on roofing 
 and how to form them by the aid of 
 the Square. Octagon, Hexagon, Hip 
 and other roofs are shown and ex- 
 plained, and the manner of getting 
 tho rafters and jacks given. Chapters 
 on heavy timber framing, showing how 
 the Square is used for laying out Mor- 
 tises, Tenons, Shoulders, Inclined 
 "Work, Angle Corners and similar 
 work. The work also contains a large number of diagrams, showing how 
 the Square may be used in finding Bevels, Angles , Stair Treads and bevel 
 cuts for Hip, Valley, Jack and otner Rafters, besides methods for laying 
 out Stair Strings, Stair Carriages and Timber Structures generally. Also 
 contains 25 beautiful halftone illustrations of the perspective and floor plans 
 of 25 medium priced houses. 
 
 The work abounds with hundreds of fine illustrations and explana- 
 tory diagrams which will prove a perfect mine of instruction for the 
 mechanic, young or old. 
 
 Two large volumes, 560 pages, nearly 500 illustrations, printed on a 
 superior quality of paper from new large type. 
 
 Price, 2 Vols., cloth binding |2.00 
 
 Price, 2 Vols., half-leather binding 3.00 
 
 Single Volumes, Part I, cloth 1.00 
 
 Part I, half- leather l.SO 
 
 •• " Partll.cloth 1.00 
 
 " •• Part II. one half-leather l.SO 
 
 SEND FOR COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE 
 
 FREDERICK J. DRAKE (Si CO. 
 
 PUBLISHERS OF SELF-EDUCATIONAL BOOKS 
 211 E. MADISON STREET ^ ^* CHICAGO 
 
APR 13 1904 
 
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