LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. Ohap..r.(?::;_|. copyright No._ UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. i\i^ 27 \900 Thomas Gorrell Phillips. JK^, .^gj*a Semira Ann Phillips. D A Little Knowledge Acquired Under Difficulties— Tippecanoe AND Tyler, too — The National Road— Paw-paws— America's Black Forest— Apple Butter Boiling — St. Mary's in the Woods— Scott's Tavern— A Gentleman in the Rough— First Glimpse of Iowa— Paton Wilson— Colonels and Esquires— Not Dangerous— New Purchase — First View of Oskaloosa— Mahaska's First School- First Organization of Methodist Church— Killing a Bear- Quakers— A Blazed Path— Going to Meeting in Ox Wagon— The First Fire in Oskaloosa— First Editors of Oskaloosa Herald— The Bear Dance— Coal -Harrison Township — The War— Sorghum —Soldiers' Aid Society— Our Neighbors and Our Own Precious Dead— Many and Varied Reminiscences. % Ssmira L f Herald Print, Oskaloosa, Iowa, 1900. 72274 c;OPYRIGHT, 1900, BY S EMIR A A. PHILLIPS. l-it>iary of Confli '- ''wo Copies Beceif' JUL 27 1900 : Copyright entry SECOND COPY. Delivered to ORDER DIVISION, JUL 28 1900 •v To Effie Hoffman RogerSf Whose words of encouragement and faith in my ability led to the story of "Mahaska's First School," this un- varnished story is affectionately ded- icated by Mahaska's first teacher. The Author. CHAPTER I. The minds of children and young" people generally are so much taken up with the present that they are not greatly interested in things that happened and the people who lived long ago. Mahaska county's boys and girls are no exception to the rule. But to some of them a time will come when they will have become mature men and women, and will have lain off childish things and childish thoughts. Now when they hear old people tell of their early experiences it sounds old fogyish and unin- teresting; they wonder why father and grandfather and other old folks want to be forever talking about living in log cabins and breaking prairie, old looms and spinning wheels; but where is the man or woman forty or fifty years old who would not sieze with delight and read with intense interest any true account of their ancestors, es- pecially if they were good people? How they would like to know what kind of looking people their great grand- fathers and their great grandmothers were, what their habits were, how they lived, how they got married and how they buried their dead. 14 MAHASKA COUNTY Every school boy and girl has heard much of the early life,' habits, struggles and ])rivations of Lincoln and Garfield and others who have risen to great eminence, but know nothing of their own grandfathers and grand- mothers. Many a good honest man or woman "who could not find it in their nature to do a mean or dishonorable thing, never think of how much they ought to thank the Lord that they sprang from God-fearing, honest, honor- able and industrious ancestors. Perhaps Timothy had never thought of his indebtedness to his grandmother, Lois, and his mother, Eunice, for the gifts within him until Paul called his attention to it. Solomon said: "Train up a child in the way he should go, and when he is old he will npt depart from it." They often depart from their parents' training when they are young, they sow wild oats, but after a while they find the crop not profitable; they begin to be dissatisfied; in fact, they have been dissatisfied all along, so when they find them- selves growing old they begin to look back, to admire, and finally fall into the faith and habits of their old fath- ers and mothers. I once knew a young man whose parents were hon- est, industrious farmers — not rich, but well-to-do. They were old-fashioned Methodists. This young man, when about twenty, left home and went west to make a for- tune. He was energetic and shrewd, and from a hired laborer he rose to a great contractor, made much money and sent many handsome presents to his parents and sis- ters. On one of his visits home, after being absent many years, he called to see me. He was a fine, gentle- manly-looking man, with the manners of one who had REMINISCENCES. 15 seen much of the world. I was rejoiced to see him, and after telling- him how glad I was to see him and how well he looked, 1 said: "Now^ David, tell me about some of your experiences and some of the sig'hts you have seen." "Well," he began, "I have made and lost several for- tunes, have been from Alaska to Terra Del Fuego, have seen nearly every principal city on the continent of America, have been among- the coffee plantations of Bra- zil and the sugar plantations of Cuba. I have been as- sociated with every kind of people in the western world; have been in all climates, have wandered throug-h orange groves and vast vineyards of California. Well, it's not worth while to try to tell of half I have seen and exper- ienced. But whether among the great cities or vast plantations of the western continent, my thoughts ever and anon, would dart back to the humble, peaceful, un- pretentious Christian home away back in Iowa, where I knew my old father and mother, brothers and sisters, morning and night gathered around the family altar and with simple faith asked God to give them their daily bread and watch over the wandering one so far away; and now, after wandering up and down, and seeing so much of the world, I have come to the conclusion that much of it is vanity and vexation of spirit, and I would have been happier if I had have settled down in Iowa and lived more like my parents have lived. In my intercourse with men and affairs I have learned much which I would not have obliterated from my mind, ''I love to think of the oceans, islands, valleys and mountains which delight the vision. The luxuriant trop- ical foliage and flowers are pleasant to remember, but 16 MAHASKA COUNTY nothing now gives me the pleasure that the thought does that I sprang from and had the example of honest, hon- orable, Christian parents. I have had in my employ hundreds of men, have dug down hills and filled up val- leys, have tunneled through mountains and spanned chasms, have had conflicts without and conflicts within, but amidst it all I never quite lost my faith in God and the religion of my old father and mother. These thoughts come to us when we begin to discover that time is fleeting and we are nearing the place where we will begin to go down the hill of life.'" Some one has said that "forty is the old age of youth and forty is the youth of old age." I remember a time when every man or woman I knew was older than myself; now nearly every mau and woman I know are younger than myself, (^nly here and there a feeble, bent and white-haired man or woman who have seen the snows of more winters or the waving corn and green meadows of more summers than I have. I have seen a time when I thought a person old at forty. I have lived to see the time when men and women who are not beyond forty seem hardly to have arrived at mature manhood or womanhood. Three score and eleven years seem a time late in life to undertake the task of writing for the perusal of the present generation my recollections of the early settling of Mahaska County, and their ancestors w^ho were the early settlers, but that is what I propose to do if the Lord spares my life and mental faculties. Many of my friends and acquaintances seem to think that I have a clearer recollection of the early days and REMINISt'ENCES. 17 events than some others who have been here quite as long-, and have urg"ed me to write, until I have finally "screwed my courag'e up to the sticking" place." So many thing's come looming" up in my mind I can hardly decide on what to tell first. x\way back in the forties and early fifties I knew nearly every man, woman and child in and around Oskaloosa. A few of them are left here and there, but only a few, and if I don't tell the story of the times when everybody lived in log" cabins, who will? Oskaloosa has grown to be a considerable city, but there is another considerable city not far away, a silent city, many of whose inhabitants are the men and w^omen who with honest purpose, courag'e and pluck helped to make this g"rand and glorious country what it is to-day. Here and there a block of g'ranite or a marble slab have carved in them a few- letters and fig"ures, telling" their names, when they were born and when they died. Some haven't even that — only a little mound overg"rown with g"rass. I wish I could tell to this g"eneration the hero- ism, hardships and self-denial endured by many of the inhabitants of that silent city. As I drive about the streets of that city I seem to be living" in the past. The friends of my youth are lying on every hand. I stop and make them a little visit, and think of the times we laughed and talked and ate and sometimes wept tog"ether. I dislike very much to have the pronoun ''I" appear so often in my story, but don't know how to avoid it and tell my story at all. I am mixed up with mucli of it in one way or another, and in telling of other people's af- fairs I must of necessity tell some of my own. The cap- 18 MAHASKA COUNTY ital "I'' business has been worrying me ever since I be- gan to think seriously of writing this story. I have tried to think of some way to tell my recollections of the people and unwritten events of the early days without using the obnoxious "I,'" but have not succeeded. So I have given it up, and concluded to let the "I's" come in wherever they seem to be needed. My object is to tell a true story of the early days and make things as plain as I can. I have great respect and admiration for the peo- ple who first settled this wilderness. When I think of the character of those early settlers I feel that they were chosen of the Lord to lay the foundation of things in this goodly land. The greater number of the earliest settlers of Ma- haska County were from Ohio and Indiana; some were from Illinois, a few from Virginia, Pennsylvania, Ken- tucky iind Tennessee. Ohio furnished the greater num- ber. The Ohio people are proud of their native State, and with good reason. Some of the best people I ever knew are from Ohio. Virginia is called the "mother of presidents,'' but the way things look now they will soon be calling Ohio ''the mother of presidents." The old Hoosier State is not very far behind in brains and good citizenship, though I can remember a time when Indiana was the subject of many jokes and uncompli- mentary remarks. But since Morton was governor and the Hoosiers acquitted themselves so honorably in the civil war, and General Lew Wallace wrote "Ben Hur," and James Whitcomb Riley has cliarmed the English- speaking world with the incomparable products of his brain and pen, Indiana has gone several steps higher on REMINISCENCES. 19 the social ladder. Indiana never did deserve the scoffs and sneers and unkind epithets which used to be heaped upon her. ''Posey County'"' was a by-word much used by persons who were altogether ignorant of the beauty of its scenery, richness of its soil, and the grand old hero for whom the county was named. But that is the way of the world. States, like people, are sometimes thought to be of little account until they by accident or other- wise perform some heroic deed. Many a wordy battle have I had with those scoffers, trying to defend my na- tive State. My first recollections are of the little gravel- ly creeks, springs of clear, delicious cold water rushing out of hillsides and forming little brooks and tiny water- falls, then meandering away off" through meadows or woods, and finally losing themselves in the greater creek. The great tall poplars, sugar trees and beech, and the paw-paw bushes growing along its banks; the old log school-house where I first went to school when I was only three years old. I can shut my eyes and see the old Webster spelling-book with its pictures of the boy in the apple tree and the milk maid and her pail of milk, spilled and running all over the ground. Iowa is a grand State, with charming" kuidscapes and many other splendid quali- ties, but where is the man or woman living in Iowa whose childhood and youth were spent in Indiana or Ohio, who does not sometimes long for the sugar-making times in the spring, and the gorgeous red and yellow foliage of the sugar trees in October? I don't suppose they would thank me for my sympathy, but I sometimes feel a X'eal pity for the boys and girls who have never known the su- preme delight of gathering around a kettle of sugar oiit 20 MAHASKA COUNTY in a camp when it is just ready to "stir ott'," armed with a tin cup of cold water and a paddle. We didn't mind mud and slush and wet feet, which always went along with sugar-making. Indiana was new in my childhood, but not too new to have big apple trees and peach trees and pear trees. Every farmer had an orchard, but if they had a big crop of fruit there was no market for it worth naming unless they dried their fruit. What a splendid time the young people used to have at apple cuttings and apple butter boilings. No well-regulated family was without their barrel of apple butter. Ai^ple butter was made by boil- ing down cider made of sweet apples to about one-third of the original quantity, then peeling and quartering and coring great mellow rambos and pippins, then putting them in that condensed cider, which was kept boiling continuously until the mass was done. The apples could not all be put in at once, but had to be added at intervals and stirred every moment from first to last. If the stir- ring was neglected for ever so short a time it was sure to stick to the bottom of the big copper kettle and burn. Some of those kettles held fifty gallons. It was consid- ered a great calamity to have one burned, for they cost an immense sum. I knew an old Pennsylvania German who was the envied possessor of one of those great ket- tles. He was a kind neighbor and would lend it all around, but always with the injunction, ''be sure and not let the butter stick.'' An apple butter stirrer always went with the kettle. This stirrer consisted of a handle many feet long, with a board with many big auger holes in it, firmly fixed at one end in an upright position and REMINISCENCES. 21 long" enoug"h to reach from the top to the bottom of the kettle. By this means the persons operating it could stand several feet away from the fire and smoke. Usually at these "functions" a boy and girl would take hold of that long handle and stir together, and when one couple would stir awhile another couple would relieve them. What an opportunity that w^as for we boys and girls to talk ''nothings.'''' We talked as learnedly as we knew how about the last spelling school, who was the best speller, and who was g(^ing to "choose up" at the next one. I mean the boys and girls of my age, from twelve to fifteen, were the ones most interested in spell- ing schools. There was a set a little older who, perhaps were engaged in more serious conversation. I attended a country school once whose teacher was a young man who enjoyed spelling schools as much as any of us; he allowed us to choose up and spell every Friday afternoon. The boys played ball every day dur- ing the noon recess; they chose up to play ball as well as to spell. There was a big, good-natured boy in that school whose name was Jordan Pike. Jordan was al- ways first choice in the ball game, but in spelling school was alwavs last. 22 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER II. The time I am writing- about was in the early forties. The country had not recovered from the financial crash of thirty-seven. Many families who had been accus- tomed to the comforts of life were reduced to poverty. Merchants were frequently sold out by the sheriff, and many distressing things happened. I was too young" and full of hope and bu(^yant spirits to comprehend or be much worried over the state things were in, and another reason was, I had never been used to anything like afflu- ence. But I had, what I think now was better than wealth — I had health and energy and an intense desire to be educated. I had great reverence for scholars and people who knew things. I was not afraid of anything but disgrace. My people were of Quaker stock who be- lieved in justice. In my childhood I was taught that nothing- was disgraceful but actual meanness in one's self. Opportunities for acquiring an education were ]ioor, especially for poor people, though the poor were not very poor nor the rich very rich in Indiana fifty-seven years ago. The rich could send their daughters away REMINISCENCES. 23 off to boarding-school, but the poor had to do as best they could. I never had the benefit of a public or free school. Not many years after the time of which I am writing" many of the young people I used to know in Indiana were sent to Earlham, but when I left they were just talking about building Friends' Boarding School, which was aft- erward called Earlham. But now from Maine to Cali- fornia and from the great lakes to the Gulf of Mexico can be found persons who at some time in their lives have been students at Earlham. In 1839 the citizens of the little town not far from where I lived built what was thought to be a very im^")os- ing structure — brick and two stories high. It was adorned with a portico with immense doric columns reaching from floor to roof. The first story was used as town hall and public assembly room, for almost any kind of meeting — literary, political or religious. The upper story was one great big school-room; this edifice was called a "Seminary." As soon as the Seminary was completed a gentleman by the name of Samuel K. Hosh- our opened a school in that upper room. Mr. Hoshour's fame as a teacher had reached our ears before he came. He taught all branches usually taught in that day, and many which were not usually taught in that region. His teaching ranged from the Third Reader to Higher Math- ematics, Latin, Greek, French and German. I never heard any one say that he was not master of all. I was wild to go to that school. I lived a little too far away to walk, and to hire my board in town was out of the ques- tion. Tuition alone was ^1.50 a term, and that seemed an immense sum. A dollar then was as hard to raise as 24 MAHASKA COUNTY twenty is now, much as people talk ab(Hit hard times in th's year of our Lord 1898. It was finally agreed upon among us to have me work for my board in some family, if one could be found near the school who was willing" to take me in. I was less than fifteen years old, but was healthy and strong and willing to do any kind of drudgery to pay my way if I could only have the privilege of going to that school. I found a family w^illing to board me for the amount of work I could do morning's and evenings, Saturdays and Sundays. This family lived only three blocks from the school. They were very respectable and proper peo})le, but not much given to }Kirting with their worldly posses- sions wdthout receiving full compensation for the same. I was given a comfortable bed and good food, for which I thought then, and liave thought ever since, I fully compensated them. I washed the dishes after every meal, did the washing an:l ironing, fed and milked the cow, carried the milk down cellar and carried it up again. I did all the scrubbing and carried the water uj) a long flight of steps. Besides tlie things I have named, I per- formed fully half the labor in making thirty yards of rag carpet. I never had the nerve to attempt to carry my books home and study in the evening, for the carpet rags were always awaiting my attention when the supper dishes were disposed of. The lady was an excellent housekeeper, and everything had to be done at the proper time. How I (hd want to study my lessons in the even- ing, but she managed me so adroitly I never dared by word or hint to suggest the thought. The family retired regularly at half-past nine o'clock. I would have been REMINISCENCES. 2o glad to have had the privileg-e of studying- my lessons after the work was done, but the lii-e was covered up, and to have burned a candle after that hour was an ex- travagance }iot permitted in that house, I would carr}^ my books and slate home on Friday evenings and study as much as I could on Sunday, but sometimes I wanted to see my mother and little brothers so much that I would take the "near cut" and walk home on Sunday. I say ''widk, "' l)ut it was run a good deal of the way. This "near cut'' was through fields and woods and meadows, and necessitated climbing many staked and ridered fences. I didn't mind that, for I never knew in those days what it was to be tired. I can see, even now, how pleased my mother looked when I came Hying in; how^ interested she \yb^ in every- thing I had to tell. I wotdd tell her how well I was get- ting on in school, keeping up with my classes, and what a wonderful man Mr. Hoshour was, and the many things he told us about which I had never heard spoken of in a school before. And then I would tell her how well I was getting on with the housework at Mr. Nero's; they treated me kindly and found no fault with my work. Once she said to me: "Child, thee studies at night, don't thee?'' I said: "No, we are making a rag carpet, and work at that of nights." I remember well the look of pain which came in her face. She sat a little while without saying anything; then with a look of tender sympathy she only said, "well, child, do the l)est thee can and thee will come out all right." 26 MAHASKA COUNTY How fast those Sunday afternoons would fly, and how soon the time would come when I would know I must hurry l)ack to milk the cow. Some of our iieig"hbors found fault with me— said I was selfish. They said I ought to stay at home and help my mother instead of fooling- my time away at school. I remember one woman in particular who took it upon herself to give me a piece of her mind on the subject. Having gone to her house one day on an errand, I found her in the yard vigorously stirring something in a large iron kettle hanging over a fire which was sending out huge volumes of smoke seemingly in every direction. As I drew near I saw that '"Melinda" (as we called her) was making soap, mid that vigorous stirring was to pre- vent its boiling over. Melinda didn't see me until I was at her side, for her face was hidden in the depths of a long slat sun-bonnet. When she looked up her eyes were red and streaming with tears, from the efl:'ects of that "contrary fire," as Melinda called it. She didn't stop to say "how de do," but in a sharp tone sang out: "Take that gourd luid bring me some lye, quick!'' I didn't Jose any time in snatching up that big crooked-handled gourd and flying to the ash-hopper and dipping up about two quarts of lye and handing it to Melinda. She siezed and dashed the whole of it into that boiling soap, which immediately settled down to more gentle motions, when Melinda remarked, ''I believe this soap's done, and you take hold and help me lift it off." I did as she desired, but as soon as the kettle was safely deposited on the ground Melinda began a tirade which I have not forgotten, although it has been nearly REMINISCENCES. 27 sixty years ag^o. Melinda was one of those persons who believed in saying" just wliat they thoug'ht, reg"ardless of anybody's feelings. She had the reputation of being" able to accomplish more work in a g"iven time than any woman in the neig"hborhood. She spun and wove the cloth for all the winter clothing" for her family, the flax and tow for all the sheets, tablecloths and tow^els they used. She tended the g"arden herself and raised hun- dreds of chickens. She enjoyed tlie distincti(m of having" the first peas, new potatoes and fried chicken of any- body in the neig"hborhood. She didn't pay much atten- tion to raising" flowers, but g"ourds were a specialty with her. Every Summer, gourds of all sizes and lengths of handle could be seen growing on vines trained over her garden fence. Melinda would divide her gourds with her less thrifty neighbors. I think she even delight- ed in being generous in that respect, but at the same time would snap out the remark: "If you was any ac- count you could raise 'em yourself." I used to think Melinda could make gourds serve more purposes than any woman I ever saw. She used one enormous gourd for holding salt, another for soap, another for storing away her garden seeds; a beautiful long-handled, clean gourd w^hich would hold about a quart was always to be seen in the water bucket, and another like it was always hanging at the spring, and one of convenient size for dipping lye when slie made soap; which brings me back to what I was going to tell about the lecture Melinda gave me. She never stopped her work when a neighbor called, but w^ent right on with anything she happened to be doing. Work never inter- 28 MAHASKA COUNTY fered with her talkmg". As soon as the soap settled down and stopped boilini^', she took up a gourd and com- menced dipping" it out and pouring" it into a barrel. At the same time she commenced talking to me in this wise: "See, here, my girl! They say you are going to town and go to school in that big Siminary, where a lot of proud, lazy, stuck-up boys and girls are trying to get smarter than their parents. I thought you had more sense than to fool your t'me away going to school. You had better stay at home and help your mother spin and weave, for I would like to know what good it is going to do you or any other girl to study all the nonsense I hear they do in that school." "You can read your Bible, can't youV" "You can read writing, can't you?" "You can write a letter can't you?" "What more do you want?" "I think you ought to be ashamed to go away and leave all the work for your mother to do." If I had been disposed to answer her questions I could not have found an opportunity, she ])lied them in such haste. And then, she didn't expect a reply. Melinda's scoring didn't effect me one way or the other, not even to make me angry. The neiglibors used to say: "Melinda's bark is worse than her bite." I kept watching the soap-dipping, and w^ondering if she would stop talking when she stopped dipping. She did stop long enough to take a breath after straightening up from her work, but just then the baby, that had been asleep in his cradle in the house, began to scream. REMINISCENCES. 29 That seemed ta sug"g"est another idea, which was a clinch- er to her other arg'uments, so she Ijroke out a^^ain and her last thrust was: ''Now, I'd like to know what g^ood g^eography and grammar is going to do you when you get married and have a lot of children to take care of." I couldn't think of anything' else to say, so I re- plied* "if that should ever happen I might be able to teach my children."" When I was ready to leave, Melinda gave me a hand- some straight-handled gourd to take to my mother. Melinda was something of a "Mrs. Poyser/' '*One of those women as is better than their word." And as Bartle Massey remarked, "Sound at the core, but sets one's teeth on edge." 30 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER III. I had more faith in my mother's opinions than I had in the opinions of all the neighbors put together. I fin- ished that term of school, and the next winter went an- other term, making altogether six months I attended Mr. Hoshour's school. I have been glad every day for more than half a century that I had that privilege and blessing, even if it was brought about through great tribulation. How well I remember everything that came within my sight and hearing in that long ago time. The Wil- liam Henry Harrison campaign, with the "Tip and Tyler" shouts and songs. About the time of the presidential election I visited some relatives who lived about twenty-five miles from my home. The journey nearly all the way was along the national road. That road was lined with houses, many of them log cabins, nearly every one displaying some emblem or devise, supposed to represent General Harrison's he- roic battle at Tippecanoe, or some other scene of Indian warfare or pioneer life. What was most in vogue was a REMINISCENCES. • 31 miniature lo|4" cabin, miniature hard cider barrel on which was hung" a miniature gourd, and all placed where the traveling public could not fail to see, generally on top of the house. I don't think we were out of the sound of "Tippecanoe and Tyler too'' the whole twenty-five miles. When I arrived at my uncle's home I found visiting- there the loveliest young Quaker lady, Mrs. Kenworthy, with the prettiest little baby in her arms; he had great blue eyes and red cheeks, and had on a long white dress. As soon as I disposed of my wraps I asked Mrs, Ken- worthy if I might take the baby. She handed him to me and he was not one bit afraid. I carried him about the room and out in the kitchen, sat down and rocked him, held him up to the window and let him look out at the chickens — did all the things that girls at the age I was then, usually do in such cases. I asked Mrs. Kenworthy how old he was, and she said "six months." Then I asked her what his name was; she said, "his name is William." I have never seen the lovely, serene face of William's mother since that November day in 1840, She was long since laid to rest among her people in the unpretentious Quaker burying ground. But William, who began life among the shouts and songs and music of brass bands, firing of cannon and parade with flags and banners, log cabins, and everybody shouting themselves hoarse for "Tippe- canoe and Tyler too," must in his infancy have imbibed the spirit of the times. When William grew to young manhood it was discovered that he was gifted with the power of orator}^ and could tell of heroic deeds in a manner to thrill and electrify his hearers. Near half a 32 • MAHASKA COUNTY century after the time when his baby ears and eyes heard and gazed with wonder at the noise and parade made by those who wanted "Old Tippecanoe" elected President of the United States, William Kenworthy was known from one end of the land to the other as the brilliant speaker and advocate of ''Old Tippecanoe's" grandson for the same high honor. William Kenworthy has been for many years a lead- ing attorney of Oskaloosa, has been reading clerk in the house of congress, and has occupied other prominent and responsible places. Mr. Kenworthy is a portly, hand- some and distinguished-looking man, with some unde- scribable traits which we who are of Quaker stock and have been brought up among Quakers carry with us as long as we live, no matter where we go. I, like other school-girls, had a special girl friend whom I loved more than any other girl who was not re- lated to me by ties of blood. We sat at the same desk at Hoshour's school. Our families were neighbors and old friends, and Mary Newby and I were closer friends than sisters usually are. Not long after the great William Henry Harrison campaign there began to be much talk among our neigh- bors about Iowa Territory. Tw^o of them, one my friend Mary's father, traveled all the way to low^a and back again on horseback. His glowing account of Iowa's rich prairie soil and other good qualities put others in the no- tion of moving to that great country, where the land was already cleared, and where they would not have to cut down and burn hundreds of immense trees in order to have one little field. When I think now of the great REMINISCENCES. 33 stately poplars, walnut and sug^ar trees which I have seen sacrificed, it bring-s a pang" of regret. I sometimes wish that one hundred miles square of that great wilderness of immense beauties, streams and rocks, hills, valleys and g"reat towering trees festooned with graceful vines had have been left a little more like God made them. Then this United States of America would have her "Black Forest" as charming and full of wonders as that of Germany and Switzerland. I would have the center of my imaginary "Black Forest," or National Park, in Bartholomew County, at a place which used to be called "The Haw Patch/' What wonders it would contain! The "Knobs," with their great chest- nut trees, spring gushings out of a hundred hillsides and rocky cliffs, gravelly brooks and tiny waterfalls, and vast caves full of nature's wonders — these and many other interesting things in the South, bordering on the Ohio river and extending many miles out from the same. Then there are the famous stone quarries about Bedford, the mineral springs near Knightstown, the red-buds, the spice bushes, the haw trees, the paw-paw bushes every- where. Very few of the giants of the American "Black Forest" had been dishonored by a blow from a settler's ax when my ancestors moved from North Carolina and settled in the dense forests of Southern Indiana. Some Indians were there, but I don't remember of ever hear- ing of an Indian cutting down a big tree. Bears and deer and wolves and panthers and raccoons and o'pos- sums roamed at will through this wilderness of gigantic trees and almost impenetrable undergrowth. There were no |)rairies in that "Black Forest," 34 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER IV. Thirty years don't seem Icng" to those of us whom the Lord has permitted to see the Winter's snows and Summer's flowers and fruits of more than twice thirty years. Many things can be done and many changes made in thirty years. In that time farms had been made, or- chards were bearing an abundance of fruit, mills were plentiful, churches and school-houses had been erected, and people were just getting where they began to look like living, in Indiana, when the talk began about the rich, black soil of Illinois and Iowa Territory. Many who had lost much in the crisis thought they could see a way to mending their broken fortunes, some to make their first start; but anyway, many families put all their worldly goods in wagons and moved to Iowa. My friend Mary's people, among the rest, came in forty-two and settled on a large tract of land in the Mississippi bottom above Fort Madison. In the Autumn of forty-three my parents had dis- posed of all their possessions which they could not bring in two wagons, and like many others, had a teax'ful time REMINISCENCES. 35 when we bade farewell to our neio'hbors and started on what seemed a long" journey. We soon dried our tears and began to be interested in scenes along- the way. We soon found ourselves on that once famous highway, ''The Cumberland Road," ambitious Young America's "Apian Way," commonly known as "The National Road." This wonderful thoroughfare was projected by the govern- ment and built at the government's expense, or as much of it as foas built. The great financial crisis of thirty- seven put a quietus on that stupendous undertaking. The original plan was to make a road wide and straight from Cumberland, Maryland, to St. Louis. St. Louis was the "far west" then. It was to be made level and macadamized the whole way. Hills were to be digged down and valleys filled up. Streams and chasms were to be spanned by covered bridges. It was supposed that anybody fortunate enough to own land on that road was to be envied. Towns sprang up all along, so near to- gether they often ran into one another. Much rivalry existed between those villages. Raysville and Knights- town were rivals. Knightstown was on high ground on one side of a little stream called Blue River, and Rays- ville was on the bottom, or lowlands, on the other side. They were both located and named before the road had been leveled. Those towns were built principally along one street, and that street was the National Road; they seemed to flourish about equally for a while, and each was jealous of the other. But when they came to dig down the hill east of Raysville and fill up the valley, the grade reached to the height of the second story win- dows, which necessitated building a long flight of steps 36 MAHASKA COUNTY from their front g-ates to the street. Not only that, but in digging- that big hill down they struck a spring well up toward the top which sent out a volume of water that went rushing down one side of that high grade, and in front of the houses, which not only necessitated the high steps, but a bridge to cross the stream to reach them. I was only a child then, but remember well how the Knightstown people jeered and chuckled and crowed over the Raysville people. They took special delight in driving along that high grade and looking down on their unfortunate neighbors. Knigtstown, I presume, can boast of two thousand inhabitants, but Raysville has gone into oblivion. Raysville was named in honor of the man who was governor of Indiana at that time. Knights- town was named in honor of the man whom the govern- ment employed as chief engineer in the construction of that great highway. Jonathan Knight was a wealthy and honored citizen of Washington County, Pennsylvania. He was the grandfather of Miss Lizzie Knight, of Oska- loosa; Mrs. Ella Stone, and Mrs. Virginia Knight Logan, who has gained distinction as a singer. Fred Logan, her son, has quite a reputation as a musical composer. Mrs. Virginia Knight Logan is a handsome woman and has charming manners. John Knight, one of Oskaloosa's prominent horticulturists, is a grandson of Jonathan Knight. The plan was to macadamize the whole length of the national road, but it was abandoned before much macad- amizing was done in Indiana, only a little way out from the larger towns, Richmond, Indianapolis and Terra Haute. That road was horrid in the Spring, but in Au- REMINISCENCES. 37 tumn, when the weather was dry, it was like one g-rand pavement. How many A^irg-inians, Pennsylvanians and Ohioans have traveled on that road in the thirties, bound for Illinois! I used to sit on the doorstep when I was a child and watch the great Pennsylvania wagons go by with their long teams of horses; some would have four, some six, and sometimes I have seen eight horses to one wagon, and every horse would have a row of bells over the hames. The driver would sit on the near wheel horse, with long whip. I can see them yet, swaying from side to side, as they slowly and contentedly wended their way. One day I concluded I would count the "mover wagons," as we called them, that went by. I sat and watched all day long, and counted one hundred and twenty, and I only counted the mover wagons. I didn't count the stage coaches, though they were always a delight to we children. A long train of cars now don't begin to interest children as the old stage coach used to interest us. How important and grand those stage driv- ers used to look, dashing into town, sitting on a high seat, with four matched horses on the gallop. The stage driver would blow his horn and crack his whip in a way which made all the boys around envious, and determined to be stage drivers when they grew up. The stage coach in that day was a grand affair, always painted a bright red, and ornamented with scroll work of yellow. They had immense, strong, curved springs back and front, which kept them continually rocking back- ward and forward if the road was at all uneven. Be- sides, there was a great leather-covered place at the back called the "boot," where trunks and other baggage was 38 MAHASKA COUNTY carried. The driver always carried the mail-bags at his feet, for there was a place at his feet made for that ex- press purpose. The stages would come in full of passen- gers and sometimes four or five on top. The driver would dash up to the post-office door where the post- master was always standing ready to catch the mail- pouch. How dextrously the driver would toss that pouch! Then whirl his horses' heads toward Gary's tavern, throw the lines to the hostler, jump off of his high perch, and with the rest of the passengers stalk into the bar-room and call for a drink. That is the way they did in Knightstown in 1835. In traveling over that great highway, almost the en- tire width of the State of Indiana, we were hardly ever out of sight of a tavern. Not only in the villages along the way, but anywhere between might be seen a high post with a more or less pretentious sign swinging back and forth, with inscription thereon informing travelers of the proprietor's willingness to entertain both man and beast. We started on that momentous journey on October 22nd, 1843. The days were lovely, hazy Indian Summer days; the nights were soft, smoky nights. The road was perfect —hard as iron and level as a floor. Our gait was so slow we had plenty of time to see everything that was to be seen. Sometimes a great walnut or hickory-nut tree stood beside the road, the ground beneath covered with nuts. We never had to look far for a stone to crack nuts with; they were lying around handy. . I have not forgotten the great, soft, yellow pawpaws we found right REMINISCENCES. 39 by the road, just west of Indianapolis, in the White River bottom. Everything" of that kind was free to whoever chose to take it. The beech trees had taken on every shade of brown, the sugar trees every shade of yellow and red. Scenery all along- the road was charming". At least it was to me, who at that time was too young and full of health and hope to see anything but the bright side of things. I thought it delightful to sleep in a tent and cook by a log-heap fire. In our company were some unerring marksmen who would kill squirrels enough through the day to make a stew sufficient for all our suppers. The trees seemed to be full of squirrels, and dozens of them could be seen running along the fence of every cornfield we passed. That state of things lasted until we had crossed the Wabash River at Terra Haute. We then left the National road and turned a northwesterly direction, drove a few miles and camped at a place in a thick beech woods, within a few rods of where was being built a brick structure which we were told was a Catholic Con- vent. Part of the building" was near enough completion to open a school, which was already in progress. I thought it a very uninviting place. There was no fence about it, and great beech trees had been cut down and were lying all about that brick house, with their great sprangly tops so thick it looked like the place would be hard to reach. There were stumps and brush and masses of chips where, I presume, can be seen to-day a beautiful lawn and all other evidences of culture, for I now hear that place spoken of as "St. Mary's in the Woods." 40 MAHASKA COUNTY Soon after leaving "St. Mary's in the Woods," the prairies of Illinois began to strike our vision. Paris was the first town we came to in Illinois. Paris was on the edge of a prairie. As soon as we passed the last house on the west side of Paris we came to a prairie ten miles across, without a single house. My first thought on see- ing that open prairie so close to town was wonder that they didn't have it all in fields of corn; but that feeling soon wore off as I saw more and more of the grand prairie. Our Indian Summer suddenly changed from a mellow haze to a leaden sky auid a damp, chilling wind. That state of the weather overtook us on the afternoon of the day we went througli Paris and commenced to cross that ten mile prairie. We had been pretty well informed regarding the roads and stopping places through Illinois. We knew there was a stopping place called Scott's Tavern, just at the edge of the timber, ten miles west of Paris. We had been told before we started, and several times on the way, that Scott's Tavern was a suspicious place; rumors were afloat that people had been robbed there. We felt a little wary, but darkness came upon us about the time we reached this place of unsavory repute. It was too cold to camp out, there was not another house near, so we took the chances of being robbed and murdered, and boldly went in and asked for shelter and the privilege of cooking in their kitchen. All was granted in a kindly manner. I don't know what the others thought, but I kept thinking about the rumors we had heard, and look- ing about to see if I could discover any evidence of our being in a den of robbers. I didn't see anything which REMINISCENCES. 41 looked at all suspicious. There were two young women in the family, Mr. Scott's daughters, who kindly showed us where to find the things we wanted in doing our cook- ing. After our supper was over the young ladies invited us into their sitting-room, which was a large room with wide fireplace, where a cheerful fire was burning. Old Mr. Scott was a widower. A very plain-looking bache- lor son, whom he called "Tommy," and the two daugh- ters, constituted the family. This was Sunday night, and a young gentleman whom they called Mr. Price, came in and spent the evening. Presently they took down from a shelf som.e singing books, one the "Missouri Harmony," and began to sing some of the good old hymns I had been used to hearing and singing, too. Mr. Scott was a fine-looking old white-haired man, and looked more like a Methodist preacher than what my idea was of a robber. After they had sang one piece the old gentleman looked around at me and said, "young lady, don't you sing?" I told him I did. Then the young folks invited me to join them in singing, which I did, and we sang and sang. The next morning when we were bidding them good-bye that old man held onto my hand all the time he was making this nice little speech: "Young lady, you are a mighty good singer, and I hope when you get to Iowa you will go to church whenever you have a chance, and be a good girl; and I wouldn't wonder if you made a mighty fine woman, and would marry some nice young man out there." "Tommy" was standing by, so the old man finished by saying: "If you will stay with us you may have Tommy." 42 MAHASKA COUNTY Our journeying through Illinois was not marked with any important event — just plodding" along over prai- ries, and occasionally a small grove or a larger body of timber. I don't think we passed through a town, not even a small village, between Paris and Springfield. If there were any towns between, our line of travel did not lead through them. Occasionally we would pass by a very fine farm, with tolerably good buildings, and there, like the rest of the way, movers could obtain food for themselves and teams, and shelter and hospitable treat- ment from those rugged, good-hearted farmers and their families. Not many orchards had begun to bear fruit, but sometimes we would see a few apples on small trees, which looked very tempting to us who had been used to having all the apples we wanted. But now we were in a country where we couldn't climb over the fence and take all the apples we wanted without anybody caring or thinking we were trespassing. That was in corn gather- ing time, and long rows of rail pens piled high with great ears of yellow corn were to be seen on every farm we passed, or when we stopped at one of those fine farms. They had corn and hay and bacon in abundance to sell to movers. That, I ])resume, was the way they disposed of their surplus crops. The road was literally lined with mov- ers. I don't remember ever hearing of one of those farm- ers asking an exorbitant price for anything they had to sell, nor for the privilege of sleeping and cooking in their houses. Movers usually camped out, but if the weather was too inclement for camping, a family could have that privilege for twenty-five cents. That was the regular price all along the road. When I look now at the map of REMINISCENCES. 43 Illinois I see the places where we plodded over that long- stretch of sparsely-inhabited rich country, all checkered over with marks which represent railroads, and little rings which represent towns, crowding each other all over the map. The next town we came to after leavings Springfield was Virginia. Virginia was a very small village, but the country about there was grand: sugar trees abounded, and that alone would hide a multitude of faults with me. A few miles east of Virginia was a very large frame house standing out on a bare prairie without a tree or shrub or vine to relieve the barrenness. It was just a great big unpainted, uninviting looking house. There was no swinging sign to tell of the fact, but we were in- formed that this imposing structure was known far and near as "Dutches Tavern.'' and the proprietor thereof owned many hundreds of acres surrounding that uninvit- ing house. Since then a town has g^rown around that nucleus and is known as Ashland. In the little valley between those sand dunes a few miles east of Beardstown were groves of persimmon trees full of delicious ripe per- simmons. They seemed to be public property, so we helped ourselves. We crossed the great sluggish Illinois River in a ferry-boat at Beardstown. That ferry-boat was propelled by an old blind horse, whose continuous tramping on a wheel placed at one side of the boat fur- nished the propelling power which moved that ponderous craft and carried us without accident across that mighty river. That, I think, might appropriately be termed a ''one horse power." When I read of the "tread-mill" punishment inflicted on the once aesthetic Oscar Wilde, 44 MAHASKA COUNTY I thoug"ht of that poor old blind horse rowing' us over the Illinois River. Where we crossed, and as far up and down as we could see, that river was speckled with ducks. We camped that night near the river, four miles above Beardstown, and it was the same there, myriads of ducks. They seemed to be tame, for I saw men and boys out on the water in skiffs; the men would shoot, but their shooting" hardly seemed to cause a ripple among" the ducks. As I write I keep thinking what a bonanza a scene like that would be now to my neighbor, Dr. Clark, and to Dwight Jackson, Joe Stumps, Al. Mendenhall, Dr. Morgan, and many more of Oskaloosa's nimrods 1 could name, who come in with a look of triumph on their faces, after plodding all day down in Skunk River bot- tom, if they are fortunate enough to bring in three or four ducks apiece. The country between Beardstown and Carthage was sparsely settled. We didn't see a comfortable-looking farm-house the whole way from Beardstown to Fort Madison. We passed through Rushville, which was a very small place, with a few frame houses, but the great- er number were log cabins. I saw several log houses in Springfield. There was a beautiful creek which we crossed several times between Rushville and Carthage, along which was fine timber. We camped one night on that creek in a cluster of sugar trees, which made us think of home. There was one "mighty hunter" in our party who knew the signs and sounds of every wild thing in the woods, and was always looking out for game. That evening just as we stopped for the night he snatched up his gun, remarking, "I heard some turkeys back yon- REMINISCENCES. • 45 der." He hurried away and we presently heard the sound of his ritle. In a few minutes he came walking very leisurely toward the camp, holding a great big gob- bler by the heels. To roast him was out of the question, but my mother and another lady in the company dressed him, cut him up and stewed him in a pot by the log-heap fire that night, and the next morning we all ate turkey for breakfast. We heard many stories of highway robbery having been committed along that road, especially in that long stretch of almost uninhabited forest. It was said that a gang ot thieves infested the country, whose headquarters and hiding place was in the Mormon town of Nauvoo. We felt a little shaky that night, but no harm came to us. The day we left that camping place we went through Carthage. I went into a store in Carthage to make a small purchase, and that was the first time I heard twelve and a half cents called a "bit.'' I asked the clerk to explain to me what he meant by "bit." He looked disgusted at my ignorance, and laid a coin on the counter and asked me what I called that. I told him we some- times called it a "levy," but the more proper name was twelve and a half cents. He ended the dialogue by say- ing, "I guess bit is about as proper as levy." That day a gentleman overtook us who was driving a ]:>air of handsome gray horses to a light wagon. He kept along with our party till night, and stopped at the same farm house. He, like nearly everybod}^. else we chanced to meet, was sociable; inquired where we were "bound for" and where we came from. We told him who we were, and where we came from, and that we were 46 MAHASKA COUNTY "bound for" Iowa. He told us his name was Isaac Frost and he lived in Iowa, near Fort Madison, and was well acquainted with our friends, the Newbys. Mr. Frost was an honest-looking", tall, manly-looking" young man. The last day had come before reaching' Iowa; the morning was fine, and the thought that we w^ere going to see and cross the mighty Mississippi that day sent a thrill of joy through our hearts. Mr. Frost might have trotted off with his dashing horses and empty wag"on, and left us far behind, but he kept along" wdth us, and after we had gone some distance he said to me and an- other g"irl in our company: ''Girls, won't you take a seat in my wagon V I want to show you the first glimpse of Iowa and the great 'Father of Waters.' " We accepted his kind offer, and were engaged in talking about Iowa, our old friends, a little sense and a good deal of nonsense, when suddenly Mr. Frost stopped his team, and pointing toward the west, exclaimed: "Girls, do you see that smoky streak away over yonder'?" We said, '"Yes; what is it?" He said, "That is Iowa." We wanted to know what made it look smoky. He replied: "I can't explain the phenomenon, but in this country, when you see a smoky line like that, you may know it means land1)eyond a river." I presume Mr. Frost would have driven us all the way to the river, but we happened to have sense enough to suggest that he, perhaps, would like to travel a little faster than our teams did, and we would join our people, then he could go as fast as he liked. He was a great manly gentleman in the rough. He sprang out, then handed us out, and we thanked him for the kindness he REMINISCENCES. 47 had shown us. He bowed and smiled, sprang to his seat, looked back and bowed again, cracked his whip and dashed off toward Iowa. I have never seen Mr. Frost since that day, but my friends, the Newbys, said he was just as nice as he seemed. 48 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER V. What excitement there was among" us young" folks when the mig"hty Mississippi did at last come into view. I wondered what made the water seem to be hig"her than the ground where we were. We were all cal'ried across in a steam ferry-boat, and the first Iowa soil we touched was that river brink at Fort Madison. That was on the 7th day of November, 1843. I was prepared to be pleased with everything in Iowa. The first building" which loomed up in sight was the penitentiary, the most impos- ing" structure in the villag"e of Fort Madison; it was just a villag"e then. We drove about three miles up the river to our old friends', Gabriel and Rebecca Ne why's home, in the Green Bay Bottom, where my schoolmate and dear friend, Mary, and I fell in each other's arms and wept for joy. Our mothers did the same. What a time we had that night talking" about old times in Indiana, and we telling about all the old friends and neighbors we all knew so well. There were several other children in the family, l)ut Mary was the oldest and my special friend. REMINISCENCES. ^ 49 though I loved all of them. We found our friends, the Newbys, living- in a log house at the foot of the bluffs, their immense corn-fields stretching away off toward the great Mississippi. The bluff's were covered with a vari- ety of trees, and in the bottom near the bluff's were great sugar trees, and oaks and elms as tall and majestic-look- ing as those we had left behind. Mr. Newby had been one of the rich men in Indiana. They lived in and owned the finest farm-house in all that region, and he owned several farms, a large flouring-mill, a store in town, the finest barn in the country, horses, carriages, and every kind of farming implement used in that day. Besides all that, their house was furnished with the most expensiv^e furniture there was to be seen in that neigh- borhood. Mr. and Mrs. Newby were whole-souled, hon- orable people, and the children were "chips of the old block.'' The crisis of thirty-seven wrought his financial ruin, or nearly so. He managed to save enough out of the wreck to locate his family where land was cheap in the Green Bay Bottoms. A few articles of furniture that once adorned their elegant home could be seen in their log cabin of two rooms. They all were cheerful and in good spirits. Mary said to me: "Semira, you don't see us in as fine a home as you used to, but we are just as happy as we were there." Those people were brave and full of pluck. Not only that, but they were endowed with bright minds. One of the daughters in after years was called a charm- ing writer, and it was said of one of the sons, by a man who knew what he was talking about, "Tom wields a graceful pen/' Every one of those children were en- 50 MAHASKA COUNTY dowed with brains, honor and common sense. The father and mother and two of those gifted children sleep near the great Mississippi. The mighty pacific beating its rock-bound shores, sounds an eternal requium over the grave of sparkling, brilliant "Tom.'' Mary, my schoolmate and best-beloved friend of my young girlhood, married one of God's noblemen, an intel- ligent Christian farmer. Mary has no daughters, but is mother of eight sons. Not only the proverbial seventh son is a doctor, but she has two doctors among her sons. Mary, like myself, I presume, regales her children and grandchildren with stories of spelling-schools, sugar- making, apple butter boiling and Hoshour's school. In 1843 Fort Madison was new, but the little town, and as much of the country about as we had seen, espec- ially the Green Bay Bottom, had a charming and go- ahead look, and there was the great Mississippi river and there were our old neighbors. I wanted to stop there, but it was ordered otherwise; there was another tearful parting, when the next morning we started for Salem. We thought then that we would visit and see each othei often, but I never saw a member of that family for twen- ty years after that parting among the sugar trees in the Green Bay Bottom. After climbing the long, high, steep Mississippi bluff and passing through some fine woods, we came out on the open prairie, and it was prairie almost without a tree, until we reached my uncle's house, a mile east of Salem. We passed by many fine farms, but small and uncomfort- able-looking buildings. The day was cloudy and chilly REMINISCENCES. 51 and a northeast wind was blowing'. The roads were good and we were so elated with the prospect of seeing" our kinfolks before night that we didn't mind the weather very much. I had come to Iowa full of buoyant spirits and prepared to like everything, but that day as we plod- ded along through some long stretches of prairie, with- out a house or tree, or anything to relieve the monotony, I couldn't help thinking they looked bleak and brown and bare. That was the 8th of November, and the greenness had all gone out of those otherwise beautiful, undulating native meadows. There was a joyful meeting and a time of embracing w^hen we reached my uncle's house. My mother and her sister had not met for many years, and I can see them yet, as they threw their arms around each other and shed tears of unfeigned joy. I had heard much about my uncle and aunt, Aaron and Delilah Cox, but had only seen them twice since I was old enough to remember them. They lived a long way from us in Indiana, and besides, they had been in Iowa several years. They had seven children; the oldest, Eliza Ann, was fifteen; Elizabeth was next, then William, then James, then Deborah, then Mary Ellen, then the baby, Edmond. Aunt Delilah was a Quaker, a concientious. Christian Quaker, and was not satisfied to live away from her kind of people. Uncle Aaron was not a member of any denomination, but was an honest, honorable, moral, kind-hearted man; kind to his wife and children and ready to do his duty as a citi- zen. I had always heard him spoken of as possessing all those qualities, and when I became better acquainted with him I had reason to know it was all true. 52 MAHASKA COUNTY We had not been long in my uncle's house before we learned that they were going to move to the "New Pur- chase," about seventy-five miles northwest of Salem. We were much astonished and sorry, for we expected to locate near Salem. Uncle and aunt had just returned from a trip to the "New Purchase," where they had bought a claim and were going to move there in the Spring. We thought they had a fine location where they were; their house was on high ground overlooking Salem, their timber was not far away, and their prairie land was just rolling enough to be all right for cultivation. My uncle had bought a large tract of land there, but on a great portion of it the title was defective, and he had lost it, which had disgusted him with the place. The man he bought of was a scoundrel and not responsible. This "New Purchase" had, they told us, on the first day of May last been opened up to settlers, and a number of first-class people had made claims and quite a number were already living on their claims. My aunt was a close observer and a good talker. She expatiated on the beauties of the country, especially on a place called "The Narrows," where the timbers bordering on the Des Moines and the timbers bordering on the Skunk rivers were not more than a mile apart. She w^ent on to say: "The timber and prairie are more evenly divided, there are no great patches of scrubby oak and hazel brush be- tween the prairies and the main timber, like there is here, but the clean prairie extends up to the big timber, and the trees stand out clear, like an orchard; there are many small streams and springs; they can have a good well by digging fifteen feet, and there is plenty of stone. . REMINISCENCES. 53 I have heard there is thought to be stone coal. There is already a small settlement of 'Friends,' and there is a prospect of more coming" in. I like our claim; there is timber on the north and timber on the west. They say the reason there is so little brush along the edges of the timber is the Indians kept it burned off. The Indians have just left there. I saw Indian trails which looked like they had been used lately." We rented a little cabin and spent the winter in Sa- lem. Salem was not a very attractive place at that time, whatever it may have become since. It was located in a fine farming country, but the little town of Salem seemed to be built right down in the mud; it had a public square like nearly all other Iowa towns, and the two or three little stores, the tavern and several small dwelling houses were locacted immediately on that square, without a walk of any kind, not even a board laid down to prevent the mud being carried in the houses. Nearly all the inhabitants of Salem and the country round about were either Quakers or Methodists. The Quakers had a log meeting-house where they held meet- ing regularly, though the house was cold and uncomfort- able; that meeting-house was used as a school-house, too, when I was there. The Methodists held their meetings in private houses, not only prayer and class-meetings, but Sunday preaching. Those people did not seem to think it any hardship to hustle around of a Sunday morn- ing and put their one room in order for meeting. What I mean by order was to get the beds made up and the dishes washed and seats fixed for the congregation; they 54 MAHASKA COUNTY had some boards leaning against the back of the house which were kept for that express purpose. They bor- rowed chairs from their neighbors if they lacked. It was nothing unusual to see the dinner -pot by the fire with pork and turnips therein, cooking away while the meeting was going on. Brother Simpson or Brother Al- len Johnson, one or the other, preached there nearly every Sunday. When the meeting would break up, the boards and other temporary seats would be taken out, and the woman of the house would spread her table as best she could with broken forks and any kind of odds and ends of old cracked plates and cups, make some cof- fee and biscuit, invite the preacher, and perhaps two or three others, to eat dinner with them. Quakers predominated in and around Salem. Many of them owned large bodies of land and raised immense crops of corn. The tavern was owned and kept by a family of Quakers b}^ the name of Pickering. The Pick- erings were remarkably tall people and much above the average in intelligence. Aquilla, the son of that Salem tavern-keeper, was a young man then. I saw him fre- quently in the winter of '43 and '44, but never again un- til I saw him moving about in the throng in the Yearly Meeting grounds at Oskaloosa, soliciting patronage for the organ of the Friends' church, The Clwisfian Worker^ of which my brother was editor. If these lines are ever read by a Quaker, he or she will know who I am talking about. Aquilla Pickering was a very fine -looking man. When I saw him moving about in that vast multitude in the yearly meeting grounds, I thought of Saul, the son of Kish, for he was a head and shoulders above every REMINISCENCES. 55 other man. Early in the Spring of 1844 my uncle and family moved to the "New Purchase." and we moved four miles north of Salem and not far from a beautiful rocky creek called Cedar. There were lots of sugar trees on Cedar. One day I went with some other young people to a sugar camp where a man was making sugar. He had some sugar about ready to "stir off" in a big iron kettle. It had that tempting, yellow, blubbering, puffing look which sugar always has when it is about done; the man had a great big ladle in his hand and was dipping up and down in that tempting-looking mass, and I thought he would surely offer us some of it, but we were doomed to disappointment. If he had been making soap he would not have been farther from asking us to taste it. 56 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER VI. Paton Wilson was a prominent citizen of that neigh- borhood; in fact, he was well known through all that re- gion. He owned a large scope of that country and was a member of the Territorial Legislature. I remember Mr. Wilson as a strong, robust man, not far from fifty years old, with a pleasant way of treating young people. He was easily approached, and at the same time one felt that he was a superior person and a leader among men. He and his wife were excellent neighbors, as we had rea- son to know. The Wilsons ministered to the sick and helped the less thrifty in various ways, without seeming to think they were doing anything unusual or remarka- ble. One evening soon after I went to that neighbor- hood one of the Wilson girls asked me to go with her to see a sick man who lived about a half a mile away. As we were about to start, Mrs. Wilson came out of the kitchen with a good-sized basket rounded up with some- thing which we couldn't see, for a nice linen towel was spread over it and tied down with a string. As she hand- ed it to us she said: "Girls, you may be needed there to REMINISCENCES. o7 sit up, for Allen is very low. I have put some thing's in this basket for Celia and the children; if there is nobody else there you had better stay all night : you will find a dried apple-pie at the bottom, which you can eat if you g^et hung^ry in the nig"ht. Give the rest to Celia, and tell her when she needs anything" to send me word. I don't think that poor man is going to live long. " Ursula Wilson and I went tripping" across a field and over a little strip of prairie to the miserable little cabin where that poor man was dying. It was nearly dark, and when we entered we could hardly see the poor, for- lorn-looking woman crouched down by the fireplace with a little child in her arms: another little pitiful-looking" child about four years old was standing by her. Ursula sat the basket down and spoke to the woman, who seemed hardly to have life enough to notice us. The cabin was like many others thereabout. Only one room, a very small window in one side, a door on the other, a very much botched-up stone fireplace and chimney. Ursula was one of the kind of girls who take in the situation, and didn't stand on ceremony. She threw off her bonnet and shawl, took up the wooden poker and stirred the dying chunks, and soon had a blaze which lighted that miserable hovel sufficiently to enable us to see in one corner a poor, scantil3"-f urnished bed on which was lying a poor, emaciated creature with his knees drawn up with rheumatism, and set, so that he couldn't possibly straighten them down. Poor Allen was past taking nourishment. Though we offered it to him, he could do nothing but moan and motion it away. The 58 MAHASKA COUNTY hearth was made of flat stones of irregular shape and very poorly put together. The floor was loose, and rat- tled as we walked over it. Another bed, like to the one on which the sick man lay, was in another corner; three or four splint-bottom chairs, a square rickety table, a few cooking utensils, and a very meager supply of dishes constituted the furnishings of that wretched abode. Ursula asked the woman if she expected any one there that night to sit up, to which she replied: "Wash. Lyon was here to-day and he said he would come to-night and stay awhile. Ursula took the towel off and laid the con- tents of the basket on the table — all except the dried apple pie; she spread the towel over that, and placed the basket on the shelf where the three or four plates and cups were kept. Ursula said not a word as she took from that basket a loaf of salt- rising bread, a piece of bacon, a roll of butter, a bowl of plum sauce, a package of sugar, another of coffee, and two tallow candles. When she was sure she had placed everything on the ta- ble her mother intended for Celia, she said: "Here are some things mother sent you, thinking perhaps you had very little time to do cooking, and these would help you a little." The poor woman may have felt grateful, but she didn't seem to know how to express her gratitude. We urged her to go to bed with her children; we would watch by her husband and call her if necessary. She acted on our advice, but before doing so she and her little girl each ate a big slice of that bread spread with butter and plum sauce. I lighted one of the candles and looked around for a candle-stick, but finding none, I improvised by wrapping REMINISCENCES. 59 a rag- around the unlig-hted end and sticking it in the mouth of a jug- which 1 found under the table. That night was not very cold, but too cold to do without fire, Ursula and I went out and looked for wood to replenish the fire. We found some scattered around but it was not very plentiful. Just as we were in the act of picking up that scanty supply of wood, a gentleman came walking- toward us. Ursula introduced him to me as Mr. Lyon. The first thing Mr. Lyon did was to snatch up an axe and go to chopping on a log". We went in the house and presently Mr. Lyon came in with a tremendous armful of wood and deposited it in the corner of the fire-place, which was at least six feet wide. He laid two or three sticks on the fire, then went to the sick man. I will never forget the tenderness in his voice as he bent over that sick man and asked him if he knew him and wasn't there something- he wanted? He tenderly adjusted the poor man's pillow and shabb}^ quilt, then sat down by the fire and entered into a conversation with us. He had a pleasant, honest looking- face, dark hair and eyes, was a little above medium height: altogether he w^as a manly looking- man. He replenished the fire occasionally through the night, brought in a bucket of water, and some time during- the night Ursula took down that dried apple pie and we three ate it. That man x\llen, like many others in that region, had come a few years before when land could be bought very low. He had a little money, bought a quarter section of unimproved land, built the cabin which I have described, broke some prairie, made rails and fenced a considerable field. He worked early and late, exposed to cold and 60 MAHASKA COUNTY heat and rain and dew. Some men could have done all that and came out apparently sound, but Allen broke down, and when I first saw him he had been a whole year confined to his bed, and was dying" amidst those wretched surrounding's. His poor worn-out wife hardly had life enoug"h left to feel sorrow or joy or g^ratitude. A few days after that memorable nig"ht, I attended his burial. There was a kind of a crude carpenter and cabinet-maker not far away who had a shop in his home and made cofiins. This cabinet-maker's name was Whit- acre. I remember seeing" he and his son bring" in the coffin for Allen. It was a respectable looking coffin, but hardly deep enough to take in those poor bent knees, and they had to press them down to g"et the lid on. Mr. Whitacre then took a hammer and great big" nails and fastened down the lid of that coffin. I had seen coffin- lids fastened down with screws and a screw driver, but never before nor since have I seen a poor dead body shut up in a way that looked and sounded so horrible to me as that did. I looked around and wondered how that poor wife must feel on hearing that cruel pounding" on her husband's coffin. The poor, shabbily-dressed, forlorn- looking creature was sitting by the corner of the fire- place with tears streaming down her face, and her little frightened-looking children were crouching down by her. The Wilsons and Mr. Lyon were there, and several others, with wagons to go with them to the grave. Mr. Wilson furnished a wagon to take the corpse, and Mrs. Wilson brought a clean white sheet to spread over the coffin as it was being taken to the grave. Mr. Wilson's hired man drove the team and the Wilsons took the poor REMINISCENCES. (31 woman in with tliem, and after the funeral they took them to their own home and kept them for days. The people about there, even those whi) were called ''well off,''' had v^ery few of the comforts of life. Some had large bodies of land, big prairie plows, long- strings of oxen, and thousands of bushels of corn. But only Mr. Wilson's and two other families that I became ac- quainted with had so much as a strip of rag carpet on their floors. Everybody cooked by a fire-place;' not even the Wilsons had a cooking stove. There were ledges of stone along Cedar Creek that looked almost like they had been laid up by a mason, and they were so easily taken out that everybody had a stone chimney and a big stone hearth. Timber was plentiful along that creek, and everybody who owned a prairie farm also had a piece of timber on the creek. Skunk river was only a mile or two away. I soon became quite well acquainted with Mr. Lyon, who knew the country and the people all over Henry County. When he learned that I had taught one term of school in Indiana, and w^ould like to teach a school some- where about there if I could get one, he offered to assist me. In a day or two after, he came to see me and said he thought he had found the place. Just north of Mt. Pleasant was a splendid neighborhood, where they want- ed a teacher; there was a good school-house, and that was considered one of the best country schools he knew of. There were no public schools or school fund then, but the neighborhood had organized themselves into a school district and had appointed two prominent citizens 62 MAHASKA COUNTY to act as directors, to examine and employ teachers. Mr. Lyon had seen those directors and talked with them about me; they told him to have me draw up an ag^ree- ment and come to see them, bring'ing' the article with me. Mr. Lyon proposed to g"o with me and introduce me to said directors. This w^as in March, 1844, and that was an early Spring*. The prairies were green and trees be- g"inning" to put out in March. Mr. Lyon appointed a day to g"o, and I went to work to brush up in my grammar and geography. One of those directors was Esquire McMillen and the other Esquire Smith. Esquire McMil- len was also called ''Colonel.'' I felt a little afraid of those high-sounding titles, but kept my courage up as well as I could, and went on with my nouns and verbs and moods and tenses, &c. I felt pretty confident of my ability in the rudiments of arithmetic, and geography didn't worry me, for I had learned to sing my geography, and had every body of water, peninsula, cape, isthmus, mountain, island and capital in the knowQ world at my tongue's end. I was not called upon to teach grammar in the school 1 taught in Indiana, but I didn't know what abstruse sentences those titled and supposed-to-be learned directors might call on me to parse. When the morning came on which I was to start on that momentous trip, I was up bright and early, dressed myself to look as well as possible, then had a handsome black horse which w^e called "Coby" saddled. About the time I was ready to go Mr. Lyon came dashing up on a handsome bay. I was at home in the saddle in those days, and was not afraid to jump ditches nor any other thing that usually came in the way of horseback riders. REMINISCENCES. 63 It was a bri^rht Spring' morning" and the road was fine. Farmers were plowing and sowing" oats, cattle were graz- ing" on the prairies, and birds w^ere singing. I w^as young and the world looked so bright, that I would have been very happy had it not been for the dread of the ordeal I thought I would have to go through in being examined by those august school directors. Mr. Lyon seemed to know every man, woman, and child along the road. He was a pleasant talker, and interested and amused me by telling their history and relating incidents and anecdotes of his own experience since coming to Iowa. I had never seen Skunk river, and when we came in sight of it I was surprised to see a river so wide and clear and shallow as that classic stream is in Henry county. The water w^as clear as crystal, running over a rocky and gravelly bed. It wasn't more than knee deep to our horses. There was a large mill just above the ford, and the water pour- ing over the dam made a sound I always like to hear. Mr. Lyon informed me that was ''Wilson's Mill"; not Mr. Paton Wilson but another Wilson. After we crossed Skunk river our road led through some fine woods. We crossed a creek called Big creek which seemed to me was "big" enough to be called a river. After going through the woods bordering on Big creek we came out on the open prairie and in sight of Mt. Pleasant. The town stood out in bold relief, and the country all around looked charming. The prairies had been burned off, the grass was coming up, and it had the appearance of a great smooth-mown lawn. As we passed through the town I noticed a clean, respectable look all about the houses and streets. There were churches and many comfortable 64 MAHASKA COUNTY looking dwelling's. Everything I saw in or about Mt. Pleasant had to me the appearance of respectability and thrift. After we had passed Mt. Pleasant and gone perhaps a mile, Mr. Lyon pointed to a farm-house a little way ahead, and remarked: ''That is (.'olonel McMillen's." I felt that the time had come for me to brace up, and "put my best foot foremost." I had told Mr. Lyon on the way that I was afraid I would be so embarrassed when the Colonel began putting me through what I supposed would be a fearful ordeal that I wouldn't be able to tell the little I did know. We rode up to the gate, alighted from our horses, and as we started toward the door Mr. Lyon remarked: "Don't you worry; you will get along all right.'' His words gave me courage. We went into what seemed to be the sitting-room, met two ladies, one an elderly, pleasant-looking lady, whom Mr. Lyon intro- duced as Mrs. McMillen, and the young lady as Miss McMillen. They received us politely and asked us to be seated, but Mr. Lyon hastened to inform them that we wished to see the Colonel on business. The young lady ushered us into an adjoining room and into the presence of the Colonel, who was sitting by a table which was cov- ered with papers and writing material. The Colonel be- ing a justice of the peace, I took that to be his office. He was writing when we went in, but looked up, and rec- ognizing Mr. Lyon, arose and shook his hand. Mr. Lyon then introduced me. I ottered the Colonel my hand, which he grasped in a manner sufficiently cordial to dis- pel to some degree my fears. Colonel McMillen was a dignified, elderly gentleman, dark-complexioned, his hair REMINISCENCES. 65 sprinkled with gray. After making" a few remarks to Mr. Lyon about the weather, he addressed me in this wise: "Well, Miss Hobbs, you, I presume, are the young lady that Mr. Lyon has been telling me about, who would like to teach school for usV I answered, "That is what I ca-me to see you about, and if you think me capable, and w^e can agree on terms, I will be pleased to teach your school. '' I proceeded to show him the article I had draw^n up. He adjusted his glasses, read it over carefully, then looking me straight in the face, said: "Young lady, did you write this?" I said, "Yes, sir, I wrote it.'' In my article I proposed to teach reading, spelling, writing, geography, arithmetic, and English grammar. He reached up to a shelf above his table and took down a book which I could see was a "Kirkham's grammar.'' He opened the book at the author's preface, handed it to me, and asked me to read. I read a few paragraphs, about half a page, when he remarked, "That will do." I handed the book to him. He took it, turned a few leaves, and then came the questioning, which I had been looking forward to with fear and trembling. I was pretty familiar with Kirkham's grammar and noticed that he opened the book at any easy place, and where the answers as well as the questions were before him. He kept his eyes on the book as he proceeded to propound the following' questions: What is grammar? What is orthography? What is a noun? What is a verb? When I had answered the fore- going questions seemingly to the Colonel's satisfaction, he then proceeded to examine me in geography. His •questions were as follows: What is the name of the country we live in? What is the capital of the United 66 MAHASKA COUNTY States? What is the longest river in the United States? What is an island? He asked another question or two about as difficult, and then seemed to think he had gone far enough to satisfy himself that I was qualified to teach. He wrote a note and sealed it, directed to "Thomas Smith, Esq.," handed it to me and told me to give that to Esquire Smith. He further said: "The 'Squire's daughter. Miss Jane Smith, taught our school last sum- mer and took her pay in farm produce, and if you will do the same, providing Esquire Smith is satisfied with your qualifications when you talk with him, I think we can give you a large school. Money is scarce and hard to obtain, and business is carried on here by exchanging one commodity for another. You can trade your produce to the merchants in Mt. Pleasant for dry goods. Every one of your patrons will agree to deliver the produce to any mercantile house you may designate in the town. There is plenty of farm produce but very little money in this region." REMINISCENCES. (57 CHAPTER VII. We took leave of the McMillens, and as we were leaving the house Mr. Lyon, in a low tone remarked to me: "That examination was a stunner, wasn't itV' We mounted our horses and dashed across the prairie about a mile, to the residence of Esquire Smith, which was a respectable-looking hewed log house. We found the 'Squire sitting by a cheerful log-heap lire. He met us with such cordial, smiling politeness that my fears were dispelled at once and I felt that he would be my friend. I handed him the letter I had brought from the Colonel, which he immediately proceeded to open and read. I watched the expression on his face as he read, and con- cluded it boded no ill to me. After he had finished read- ing the letter he bowed and smiled and went on to say: "The Colonel, I see, has examined you in the branches you propose to teach, and is satisfied that you are quali- fied to teach our school. I am willing to abide by his judgment, and don't think it necessary to question you farther. If you are willing to teach on the terms he sug- gested, we will consider the matter settled, and you may 68 MAHASKA COUNTY begin teaching on the first day of April. I came to their terms, left the articles with Esquire Smith, and in a few days he sent me word that he had succeeded in getting twenty-eight scholars subscribed, and he thought several more would come in. I was to receive one dollar and fifty cents per scholar in produce. Esquire Smith thought the most of my patrons could pay in corn-meal at the market price in the town of Mt. Pleasant, and said pat- rons would deliver the same. In my talk with Esquire Smith he told me of a family living near the school-house who he felt sure would board me and take their pay in such things as I received for teaching. I was not well pleased with the kind of pay I was to receive, but having to make my own living I realized that I couldn't always have things just as I liked. I was glad to be employed to teach the school, even on those terms. I was too young then to analyze my thoughts, ideas, and desires, but I know now — I was honest, proud, ambi- tious, energetic, and to make a dollar any way but in a straightforward and honorable manner never entered my mind. Young as I was T had observed that there were few occupations a woman who had to make her living could engage in and be respected. A girl in those days who was supposed to be well enough educated, and was employed to teach, was considered worthy of a higher place socially than one who spun and wove and cooked and washed for people out of her own home. She may not have been more worthy, but "public opinion'' acted like she was. I was not afraid of spinning, nor cooking, nor washing, but I was afraid of that terrible tyrant, "public opinion." Of course I was greatly relieved and REMINISCENCES. 69 pleased to have g-one through that dreaded examination with so little trouble, but I can't say that it g-ave me a very exalted opinion of the erudition of those school di- rectors. I think now they were about as much afraid of me as I was of them. Colonels and Esquires in those days were not always very scholarly. I was so giad it was all over that I went home with alig^ht heart and kind feeling-s toward everybody. But on the way Mr. Lyon would look at me in a quizzical way and say: "What did you say a noun was?" or "What did you say the capital of the United States was?" And when we reached Skunk River and were standing- in the river letting- our horses drink, he looked up and down the stream, then remarked: "The river is pretty low now." I said, "yes, but don't it g-et pretty hig-h sometimes?" "Yes," he said, "and I was just thinking that about the time your school will be out, the river in all probability will be up, and you can put all your farm produce on a flat-boat and send it down the river to New Orleans." I told him if he didn't stop making fun of me, as soon as we got to the top of the hill I would run off and leave him, for I knew my horse could outrun his. He replied: "I don't know about that, but our horses are tired, and I guess we had better not run a race until some other time, but I'll stop, if that is the way you take my suggestions." We rode on. talking about the merits of our horses, the pleasant trip we had had, and the beauties of the country, until we arrived at my home, where Mr. Lyon sprang from his horse, led my horse up to a stump and assisted me to alight. I didn't need any assistance but it was considered the polite thing to do that way. I in- 70 MAHASKA COUNTY vited him to come in and take supper with us, but he declined. We stood and talked for a moment and I thanked him for his kindness to me, for I did consider that he had been a friend and I felt grateful. He re- marked that it had given him much pleasure and he had enjoyed the day, he thought, quite as much as I had. As he finished the last remark he sprang into his saddle and turned his horse's head as if to leave. I was just about starting to the house when he called me back, and with a very sober look said: "I have been thinking that the amount of truck you will have to dispose of will overstock the market in Mt. Pleasant, and you will be obliged to resort to the flat-boat, and in that case you will want a pilot, and I am. the man." At that he gave his horse a cut with his whip and went dashing off. Be- fore we retired that night I think I told my mother every- thing relating to that day's experience, not omitting the most trivial details. She was deeply interested, as she always was in everything which concerned me. The next day I went over to Wilson's and told them about it. Mr. Wilson said, "T know all the men in that neighborhood and if you were to hunt Iowa over you couldn't find a better." When the time came for me to begin my school, my friend Mr. Lyon proposed to go with me and see me safely landed at my boarding-place, Mr. Kesler's. I gladly accepted his kind offer, and we enjoyed another trip over prairies, woods, river, and creeks. He never once, the whole way, referred to * 'nouns", "capitals", nor "flat-boats". Esquire Smith had arranged every- thing in regard to my boarding. The Keslers received REMINISCENCES. 71 me so kindly that I felt at home with them right away. Mrs. Kesler was a very energ-etic woman, a good house- keeper, and an excellent cook. She wanted to do much more for my comfort than I wanted her to do. Mr. Kesler was a gentle, quiet, unassuming man. He and his wife were both devout Methodists. The school-house was not more than forty rods from the Kesler home, and in one of the prettiest places I ever saw in Iowa. Just across the road was a camp-meeting ground in a beautiful grove of oak and hickory trees, and a gravelly, rocky little creek crossed the road only a few rods away. That place had been settled about ten years, and many of the first settlers were comfortably fixed for low^a. On Monday morning, the first day of April, 1844, I commenced my school. Mr. Kesler had made a fire in the stove, and when I went in I found a clean, pleasant looking school-house. It was a log house but was white- washed and had good windows and door, and for that day, good writing-desks and seats. The outlook was charm- ing. The grass was coming up all about, the trees were putting out, and that little brook so near that I could see it from the school-house door, and hear the water rippling over its gravelly bottom. In a little while the scholars began to come in. I think there were thirty the first day, their ages ranging from five to twenty-two years; some of them several years older than myself. My eighteenth birthday oc- curred while I w^as teaching that school. I soon discov- ered that none of them were far enough advanced to give me any uneasiness. I went to work with the determina- tion to do my very best to please the parents and instruct /2 MAHASKA COUNTY their children. If they were not pleased with my work they never let me know it. In a small way I followed Mr. Hoshour's plan of teaching', which was to instruct my pupils correctly in the rudiments, but not confine myself to text-books alone. I knew very little of ancient or modern history, but the little I did know I gave them the benefit of, which in my crude judg-ment would instil in them a taste for reading" and finding out things for themselves. All the families in that neighborhood were orderly, respectable and moral; nearly all members of some relig- ious denomination, and meetings were held nearly every Sunday in the school-house or at the camp-ground. That neighborhood was known far and near as the Brazelton neighborhood. The Brazeltons were the most prominent family therein, and seemed to be allied by blood or mar- riage to most of the elite of the town of Mt. Pleasant, the Wallaces, Sanderses, Porters and Paines. The Wal- laces, Henderson and Frank, I was told, were brothers of Governor Wallace, who was the first governor I remem- ber anything about in Indiana. They were tall, manly, distinguished-looking men. Henderson Wallace was a son-in-law of Colonel Samuel Brazelton. One of the San- derses was a brother-in-law. Alvin Sanders was a young unmarried man then, and kept a store of general mer- chandise in Mt. Pleasant. He was afterward Governor of Nebraska, and has the distinction of being the father- in-law of Russell Harrison. Alvin Sanders was a fine- looking man and a gentleman in every sense of the word. The eldest daughter of the house of Brazelton was the wife of Asberry Porter, a lawyer and leading politician REMINISCENCES. 73 in Henry County. Nearly aill the men about Mt. Pleas- ant whom I have mentioned were politicians, and were "Whigs," and would have voted for Henry Clay if they had have had the chance. But Iowa was a Territory then. The Territorial Legislature and county offices engaged their attention at that time. I became acquaint- ed with those people and many others at the homes of the Brazeltons and Keslers. Both families entertained hospitably. I remember well the big fire-place in the Brazelton kitchen, with crane and hooks of every neces- sary length. What a lot of pots and kettles could be hung on that long crane, and be swung out and back again over the lire at the cook's pleasure! What splendid biscuit, salt-rising and corn bread could be baked on that big hearth in skillets and ovens with coals placed under- neath and on the lids! Great strong andirons to hold the wood in place. A strong pair of tongs and shovel stood against the jamb, and hooks for lifting pots, and hooks for lifting lids, hung on nails in convenient places. There were cooking stoves in that da3^ but I don't remember one in the Brazelton neighborhood. Not only religious services were held in the school- house, but every alternate Saturda}^ afternoon a young gentleman by the name of Shadel taught a singing school which was patronized by all the young people about there. We sang what was called "patent notes" and used books called "Mason's Sacred Harp" and "Methodist Har- monist." Two of Mr. Shadel's sons, Horace and Henry, are musicians and well known, not only in Oskaloosa but many other towns. These young men have the reputa- 74 MAHASKA COUNTY tion of being- honorable men, and of possessing- much musical talent. I had no trouble with my scholars, and was treated with kindness by their parents and the young men and women of the neig-hborhood. I had what young- people call a "good time," until one day about two weeks before my school closed I received a letter saying- my mother was sick. I dismissed my school, borrowed a horse, and went to see her. I stayed with her three days, when she seemed so much better all thought she would be well in a few days. I went back and finished my school. A few of my patrons paid me in money, notwithstanding I had agreed to take all in "produce". One man I remember in particular, Mr. Heaton, who sent two lovely little girls, Sarah and Lottie, to my school. Mr. Heaton had a saw mill on Big Creek. He said: "I will pay you in money; I don't like to ask you to take lumber." With Mr. Kesler's kind assistance I managed to dispose of some of my assets in the shape of farm produce, but a con- siderable quantity was yet on my hands when my school closed. This residue consisted principally of corn meal. I was fortunate enough to trade it to Mr. Alvin Sanders for dry goods. I remember with what fear and trem- bling I approached Mr. Sanders when I went to his store to propose that exchange of commodities. When I had stated the amount of corn meal I wished to dispose of he looked a little surprised, hesitated at first, and intimated that he feared the amount of that commodity I wished to dispose of would more than meet the requirements of the citizens of Mt. Pleasant. I think he noticed my embar- rassment, and the kindness of his heart prompted him to REMINISCENCES. 75 take the whole of it and take the chances of disposing- of it. I have always felt grateful to Mr. Sanders for that act of kindness. I was rejoiced and not at all surprised in after years to learn that he had "gone on to fortune and to fame." 76 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER VIII. When I was about closing- my school and other busi- ness, word came to me that my mother was very sick. I went to her as quick as I could and found her very sick indeed. The Wilsons, as was their true nature, were and had been* doing" all they could for her comfort. One day the end came. She died in peace, even thoug^h it was in a wretched log cabin on a bare prairie, her children stand- ing- around her, frantic with g-rief. I can never forget the heart-broken sobs of my little brothers, Calvin and William. How dreary the world seemed when a little procession of those neighbors in farm wagons followed her one morning to the Friends' burying-ground at Sa- lem, where we stood by the grave until those kind people had thrown on the last spadeful of earth and shaped it into a mound over all that was mortal of our beloved mother. More than half a century the prairie grass has been growing, and the prairie winds have been singing a requiem over that humble grave. Generations have passed sway and other generations have come upon the scene and taken their places, since that day on which that REMINISCENCES. 77 terrible truth, "My mother was dying!" flashed upon my mind; as the years go by, and that day in August which to me is apart from all other da3'^s in the year, I live over again that terrible experience. That sad scene with all its sur- rounding's is photographed on my memory, and has never faded out in all the years that have come and gone; that cabin with its dingy walls, the white home made counter- pane on my mother's bed, the locust tree before the door, with the breeze lifting up its leaves, my little brothers, helpless, weeping, and the faces of kind neighbors who wept with us, form a picture which time has not dimmed. My mother was a Christian and died rejoicing, though all around her were weeping. I am thirty years older than my mother was when the Lord took her to himself. I have read the writings of many authors who have given to the world what are supposed to be the best thoughts and ideas and teaching to young girls; have observed and thought much myself, but my mother's advice and counsel to me stands good to-da}^, and is what my best judgment approves. The principles she taught me are the principled which I try to instil into the mind of every young girl who comes under my influence. My mother was kind to the sick, and when she was sick and dying, kind people came to help and comfort her. Paton and Hannah Wilson have long been sleei)ing under the sod. If these lines ever fall into the hands of any of their children, grand-children, or great-grand- children, I want them to know that there is one at least who has never ceased to be grateful for the help and kindness shown her and hers in that time of sorrow. The Wilsons stand prominently in my memory, but they are 78 MAHASKA COUNTY not all the noble-hearted people who have a warm place in my heart. There was a lovely Christian Quaker lady, Rachel Bond, whose words of tender sympathy and kind acts I have not forgotten. And Mr. Lyon, true to his kindly instincts, was ready and willing- to do anything in his power to lighten our grief. Mr. Lyon has always been held in grateful remembrance by me. The reader, if there ever is a reader of this story, may think there ought to be a sequel to Mr. Lyon's and my rather ro- mantic acquaintance, but there is no sequel. My story is without a plot, and is only an attempt to tell a straight- forward and true story of my recollections of long ago. After my mother was gone I soon realized that I could not afford to sit down and nurse my grief and be- moan my bereavement; something practical had to be thought of. The Wilsons, as the}^ had been doing all along, stood by us, and were planning a way to send me and my little brothers to our relatives in Indiana, when four days after my mother's death my uncle and aunt, Aaron and Delilah Cox, came. They had not heard of my mother's death until they reached that neighborhood. They had come with teams to take to the "New Pur- chase" a considerable portion of their household goods and other things, left when they moved in the Spring. They proposed different arrangements for us. That was before the days of telegraphy, and postal service was so poor and uncertain that to send a letter to the wilds of the "New Purchase" was a thing that one could have no assurance would ever reach its destination. When my uncle and aunt took in the situation they both, with one accord, offered me a home in their family, REMINISCENCES. 79 and said they were sure the people in their settlement would emplo}'^ me to teach their children. At the same time it was arranged to send my little brothers to our relatives in Indiana. The parting from my little brothers added another pang to my great sorrow. I thought of course in some way I would see them again before a very great while : but when 1 saw them again they were young men and I was living in Oskaloosa, married, and had two little boys of my own. That good uncle and aunt did and said all they could to comfort me. They didn't seem to think they were making any sacrifice in taking me into their family, as one of their own children. I was too young and inexperienced in regard to the care of provid- ing for a family to full}^ appreciate their great kindness. In after years, when I had seen and learned more of the world, I looked back to that act of pure-hearted kindness with wonder and gratitude. My uncle had two wagns, one drawn by a pair of horses and the other by two yoke of oxen; both wagons were pretty well tilled. The ox wagon was what was called an old Pennsylvania wagon, with long bed ex- tending far out in front and back. That wagon was piled high with various things, among others a quantity of llax which had been broken in a flax-break, but not hacheled or swingled. Many families in that day raised flax; they broke it, swingled it, hacheled it, spun it and wove it by hand. In those days I was called a good spinner; I loved to spin flax and used to be an expert in spinning thread. They used to say that my verse in the Bible was a true proverb: "She layeth her hands to the spindle, and her hands hold the distaff." — Prov. xxxi, 19. 80 MAHASKA COUNTY I never enjoyed any work more than spinning tiaxon one of those little wheels we sometimes see now placed in a parlor or elegant guest chamber as a choice orna- ment. I had the pleasure in the winter (^f '44 and '45 of helping my aunt spin the flax that was brought to the "New Purchase" on that big Pennsylvania wagon. My uncle had provided a comfortable place for my aunt and me in the other wagon, but after we had traveled one day and reached what was erroneously called the "edge of civilization," I obtained leave of my uncle to ride on that pile of flax. It was up high in air and I had a charming view of that wide expanse of unbroken, green, waving, undulating prairie. After we had left Fairfield and gone a few miles west we realized that we were in a place where, as far as we could see, no long string of oxen with massive plow had ever turned a furrow. The tall blue- stem grass, the yellow and purple prairie blossoms were being swayed to and fro by the mild August breeze. We could see the Skunk River timber away off to the right of us, with now and then a point extending out toward that great mass of undisturbed grass and blossoms. The road had been traveled so little the grass was not worn out in it. Travelers had nothing to obstruct their way. They could drive just where they chose, though they kept along what was called "The Divide." By so doing they missed the few hills and hollows and sloughs they would have encountered near the timber. We traveled miles and miles without seeing any sign of a human hab- itation. After a while our road led us to one of those points of timber where was located a very poor looking log cabin and a few acres enclosed by a very poor fence. REMINISCENCES. 81 About this cabin was a cluster of plum and crab apple trees which almost hid the cabin from view\ I might say, "A rural cot embowered 'neath nature's primeval foliage" but anything so poetical and romantic would be mis- leading. It wouldn't give one the true picture of that poor, crude cabin built in the brush, where was just enough cut down to make a place for said cabin. The crab apple and plum trees were all right in their native state, but with dead brush and sticks and chips all around and under them, the sight was not very inviting. A A^ery sour, unsociable looking woman was sitting before the cabin door, under one of those crab apple trees, spinning flax on a little wheel. My aunt and I walked up near her and spoke to her. She didn't stop spinning, just barely nodded to us. We asked her for water. Her only answer was, "You can get water over there in the slough," mo- tioning with her head the direction. We noticed a dim path leading that way, followed it and directly came to the slough, where we found a hole dug in the side, full of not very good water. It slaked our thirst though, and we went back and thanked her. She just nodded a very slight nod with the same sour look on her face, her feet keeping the same vigorous motions on the pedal of her wheel and her hands manipulating the flax. We made no more efforts to be sociable but went back to our wagons, climbed in and journeyed on. That was late in the after- noon. When night came we had reached another point w^here we camped. That was the last night before reach- ing my uncle's home. That last camping place I after- ward heard called "Waugh's Point". The next morning we were up and on our way a little after sunrise. I 82 MAHASKA COUNTY climbed up on that big wagon, and from that elevated seat had an unobstructed view of that charming land- scape; that undisturbed great native meadow. Some groves could be seen off toward the Skunk river, and away over toward the Des Monies. Not a human habita- tion was to be seen ; not an animal, except occasionally in the distance we would see a deer or wolf scampering off toward one of those groves. The last morning of that journey, which I little thought would result in events and circumstances of so much importance to me, was one of those delightfully cool mornings which sometimes occur in August. I was seat- ed on my airy perch, taking in the never-tiring scene and breathing the fresh morning air, when suddenly a gen- tleman on horseback rode up beside the wagon. I recog- nized him in a moment as an acquaintance I had made while in the Brazelton neighborhood, Dr. Theodore Por- ter. I wondered if he wouldn't be amused at seeing me in so unromantic a situation. The doctor slackened his pace to suit the plodding gait of our oxen and kept by us for a mile or two, all the time treating me with as great def- erence as if I had been a princess mounted on a triumphal car. He told me he was going to locate in, or had located in the new town of Oskaloosa, and was surprised to see me on my way to that region. I asked him about the town and people, and in reply to my questions he said: "There are perhaps a dozen houses in the town, and as good a class of people coming in as you will find any- where. There is a family named Seevers, a Mr. Williams, a gentleman by the name of Edmondson, all first-class peo])le, and a family by the name of Phillips, who are all REMINISCENCES. 83 sing"ers. I never heeird better vocal music than was made by the Phillips family." The doctor, after saying many more complimentary things about the people around Os- kaloosa, and expatiating on the beauty and natural ad- vantages of the country about the Narrows, and saying he would call on me in my new home in the near future, bade us good morning and started oft: on a brisk trot to- ward Oskaloosa. Our oxen, patient and plodding, kept on in the even tenor of their way, occasionally reaching out and snatch- ing a bite of blue-stem grass by the roadside. We came in sight of "White Oak Point,'' where my uncle said there were a few families settled; we couldn't see the houses, as we kept out on the ''divide," When we were not far from White Oak Point I looked away toward the west, or a little north of west, and saw what seemed to be a narrow gap between two points of timber. 1 called my uncle's attention to the scene, and asked him what that place was. He replied: "I was wondering if you had noticed that. That is 'The Narrows,' you have heard so much about, and that 'gap,' as you call it, is where Oskaloosa is located, but the houses are so few and little and the grass so high, you will have to get a good deal nearer than this before you can see it. The timber you see on your right hand is Skunk River timber and that on the left is Des Moines River timber. After going through 'The Narrows' the prairie widens out again and is interspersed with groves, and the country above is just as beautiful as this which you have been carrying on so about.'" When we were within three or four miles of my 84 MAHASKA COUNTY uncle's place, he and my aunt began pointing- out places which loomed up in sight, and telling me who owned and lived at different groves — nobody had ventured far out on the prairie at that time. Away off to the southwest a beautiful grove stood out conspicuously and could be seen a long way oft'. "That," my uncle said, "is one of the finest places on that side of the prairie and belongs to a man by the name of Lewis Rhinehart." Another place which stood out "high and dry" was called the "Parker grove." Now it is the McKinley farm. We left that main drive and turning to the right into a track much less traveled, were directly in a region of prairie all interspersed with the most beautiful groves of droop- ing elms and lind trees. They were all surrounded with a border of crab apple and plum trees. My uncle, point- ing toward the north, said: "About two miles over in that direction is Skunk river, and on the bluff' is an Indian village called 'Kishkekash.' There are no Indians there now, but some of their bark huts are still there, and a family of white people by the name of Bean own a claim there and are living in one of those 'wigwams'." Pres- ently we began to see fields of corn and some very small and crude cabins tucked in the edges of the groves. My aunt remarked, ' 'Now we are getting into our settlement and I will show thee where some of our neighbors Ifve." Pointing to a grove to the east she said: "There is where Poultney Loughridge lives." Then pointing west she remarked: "Thee sees that big grove over there? That is where Thomas Stafford lives, and a little farther on his son Brantley lives. Brantley's wife, Rachel, is a relative of ours, Rachel's brother, Sammy Coffin, lives about REMINISCENCES. _ 85 four miles west of our house. Our cousin, Dr. Seth Hobbs, lives about a mile and a half from our house, southwest.'' She kept on telling- me about their neigh- bors until we came to a cornfield where the road was along- the fence, and away at the end of the held and close to a body of timber was a cabin which we could plainly see as we drove along- the fence. I asked her whose field it was. She replied, "This is our field and that is our house." "Well," I said, "Aunt Delilah, I think you have the prettiest place of all." It was a pretty place and seemed so nicely located. There was beautiful timber to the west and north of their house, and the cabin was just out from the edg-e of the timber. Their field of corn just in roasting ear lay oft" toward the south. There was great joy in the family when we arrived. My cousins had seen us coming down the road and all came running to see their father and mother. They were surprised to see me, but welcomed me in a hearty, child- like way. But when Aunt Delilah said, "Aunt Mary is dead and Semira has come to live with us," joy was mixed with sorrow and tears came in our eyes. Uncle and aunt questioned the children about the way they had gotten along in their absence. They had all been well and noth- ing serious had happened. As we went toward the house we saw a young looking woman standing in the yard with a little child in her arms. My aunt shook hands with her and then introduced us in this wise: "Semira, this is our nearest neighbor, Amanda Martin; and Amanda, this is my niece, Semira Ann Hobbs." Aunt Delilah was a gen- uine Quaker of the old stamp and never said Mr., Mrs., nor Miss to anybody. I don't think iVunt Delilah ever 86 MAHASKA COUNTY did but one thing- in her life which was forbidden by the discipline of her church, and that was ''to marry out of meeting'." I don't think anybody ever blamed her for that. If she had had her ])ick and choice of all the young Quakers in the State of Indiana, she could not have found a more pure-minded aiid honorable man for a husband than Aaron Cox. Both my uncle and aunt were exceed- ingly conscientious, just and honest. I had a home in their family for more than a year and was never made to feel that I was not welcome. They were quite as well fixed for living as any family in that new settlement. Their cabin had but one room, but that room was larger than cabins generally were. I think now it was eighteen feet wide and twenty feet long. I know they had in it four ordinary sized beds, and a trundle-bed which was kept under one of the big beds in the day time and drawn out at night for the children. The style of bedstead used then was so high from the floor to the bed rail that there was ample room under a bed to store many trunks and chests and boxes and bundles. It was customary to hang a valance around which hid all these unsightly things. Women in that day and stage of the country's history learned how to manage and utilize room. My uncle's cabin had a very large fire-place, six feet wide at least. That fire-place was built up, back and jambs with stone and mud. The top of the chimney was of mud and split staves or sticks. The floor was puncheon and the roof clap-boards. There was a door in the south, a small window in the west end by the fire-place, and another small window in the north. My aunt had a loom and all other necessaries for makinir cloth. While the weather REMINISCENCES. 87 was warm the loom was kept in a shed at the back of the house. That shed had a clap-board roof, and the floor was of elm tree bark laid flat on the ground with the roug-h side up. My uncle and aunt were both good man- agers and could make the best of their crude surroundings. They had plenty in the wilderness. They had moved to this place in March and the time I am talking about was August. They had to go a long way to procure flour and corn-meal: I think the nearest mill was in Jefferson County. My uncle and aunt and every child that was old enough were workers, and had raised a splendid garden. That fresh, new, mellow soil without a single weed, would produce a crop without much tending; they had cabbage, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, and had the only sweet potatoes around there. All through the cornfield the ground was yellow with pumpkins; m}^ aunt had not neglected to bring a supply of garden seeds when they came in the Spring. About a dozen rows of corn nearest the house were hanging full of beans of the "cut short" variety. Besides the neces- sary and useful, my cousins, Eliza Ann and Elizabeth, had a bed of old-fashioned flowers — marigolds, four- o'clocks, larkspurs, touch-me-nots, and some morning- glory vines running up strings by the cabin door. Fruit was the thing missed most, and if my aunt had not brought a quantity of dried apples we would have been without. Blackberries grew in the woods about there, but at the time I am talking about the blackberry season was over. Crab-apples were plenty, but sugar was a lux- ury both scarce and dear, and crab-apples even in that day wei'e not greatly relished without being sweetened. 88 MAHASKA COUNTY My aunt, and I presume most of her neig'hbors, had a lit- tle sugar carefully put away to be used only in emergen- cies, but we got along very well without sugar. My uncle kept four cows and we had more milk and butter than we could use. There was no market anywhere in reach, and what we couldn't use was given to the pigs. I remember how lavishly my aunt would put butter in everything she cooked, especially her roasting-ear pud- dings. One of Aunt Delilah's roasting-ear puddings, spread all over with the kind of butter she made, was a whole meal itself. We had one of those puddings every night for supper as long as the roasting-ears lasted. My uncle, as I have said, was not a member of any religious denomination, but had a profound res])ect for sacred things, especially for my aunt's views and strict adherence to the customs of the church of which she was a member. We never sat down to our meals, no matter how plain, without observing the little spell of silent reverence practiced among Friends. I had been brought up among Friends, or Quakers, and knew all about their habits, but at that time and for a long time after, I had never heard a vocal grace at one of their tables. But all Friends who were worthy of the name observed the custom of bowing their heads in silent reverence and thanksgiving to God before partaking of their meals. No long and devout utterance of vocal prayer and thanks- giving at table ever seemed more solemn to me than the silent grace of the Quakers. When they buried their dead they stood solemnly around the grave, not shunning the heart-piercing sound of clods falling on the coffin-lid, but waitnig until the last spadeful of earth was placed REMINISCENCES. 89 and fashioned into a smooth, shapely mound by some kind and sympathetic neighbor who, when the last gentle pat was given, would quietly step back, and leaning on his spade, would wait with the others the few moments of reverent, solemn silence which always followed the burial of their dead. The people in that neighborhood were nearly all mem- bers of some religious denomination, or had a member- ship before they carn,e, but no church had been organized nor any religious meetings held. The Staft'ords, the Stanleys, the Arnolds, and my aunt Delilah, were Quakers. The Martins (H. P., usually called Patterson), and Silas, his brother, and their wives, were members of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church. Poultney Lough- ridge and family were United Presbyterians. Several denominations were represented, but only a few repre- sented any one. But however their religious tenets may have differed as neighbors, they dwelt together in har- mony. They were kiad and helpful to each other and hospitable to strangers. There seemed to be no such feeling as jealousy, nor any disposition to take advantage of each other. Every one of those families owned a good claim and had obtained them honestly. 90 MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER IX. A time was appointed, May 1st, 1843, when men were allowed to come in and select claims. One man might hold a claim embracing- half a section. There were four men, Poultney Loughridge. John McAllister, Edwin and Robert Michell, all related either by blood or marriage, who came a little before the time, but made friends both with the Indians and dragoons. They selected four claims, without designating who should be the possessor of any particular one. All those claims had both timber and prairie and were thought by them to be about equal in value. When they were surreptitiously "spying out the land" they cut a set of house-logs; they did not go to sleep on the night of April 30th, in '43, but the moment the hands of somebody's watch pointed to the hour of twelve, they gathered up their stakes and torches and be- fore daylight on the morning of the first of May their claims were all staked or blazed out. Then they drew lots and every man drew the very claim he wanted. That same day (May 1st, '43) they made of those logs so stealthily cut a cabin on Mr. Loughridge's claim, which REMINISCENCES. 91 was said to be the first house ever built in Maliaska County. My uncle, in the fall of '43, bought Mr. John McAllister's claim, which had on it the cabin I have men- tioned. The land on which that immense crop of pump- kins grew amidst a forest of corn was broken in '43. My uncle had broken another lot of ground in the spring which had produced a big crop of what was called "sod corn." And such a crop of turnips! big and juicy and tender and sweet. I wonder why we never have such turnips nowV I came near forgetting to mention the melons. My uncle had a patch of watermelons, and muskmelons of the nutmeg variety. If one just threw the seed away on that rich, clean, mellow ground, a big crop would come of it. My uncle was a man who pro- vided for his family, and my aunt was one of the women "who looked well to the ways of her household." They had an interesting family. Eliza Ann, the eldest, was a staid and steady girl, practical, and not given to joking. She was a blond, with an abundance of golden brown hair which laid in wavy ripples all over her head without the aid of any device in the way of crimping apparatus. Eliza Ann and I got on well together, were always good friends. She was a serious, matter-of-fact sort of a girl, the kind that the neighbors all have a word of praise for. Elizabeth was my bosom friend. Her faults were few and her virtues many. She was what in these days would be called a bright girl. She grew to be a bright woman, and to-day is one of the brightest women I know. To me she is a "joy forever." In a short time I became acquainted with some of the neighbors. I soon became quite good friends with the 92 MAHASKA COUNTY Martins — Patterson and Amanda, as we called them. They were young people then, had only been married two or three years, and had one baby, Mary, who is Mrs. Matt. Crozier and a grandmother now. Patterson and Amanda had come in the summer of '43, They had a claim adjoining my uncle's, and were living on that claim in a little cabin about a quarter of a mile north in the woods. They were very kind to me from the first. Many pleasant little visits 1 had with them in their humble cabin. I think it was the very first Sunday after I came to my uncle's that Patterson and Amanda came along in the early afternoon and told us that Mr. Loughridge had given out word among the neighbors that any who wished to do so could come to his house and hold some kind of religious meeting. I ran in, put on my straw bonnet, and joined the Martins. We walked across my uncle's field, climbed a staked and ridered fence, and then came into a dim road which led toward Mr. Loughridge's house, which was that "first cabin" and in appearance much like all other cabins about there. One room with all the appur- tenances for cooking, eating, and sleeping, and arranged about as snugly as possible. When Mr. Martin introduced me, Mr. and Mrs. L. shook hands with me cordially, and made some pleasant remarks about my being a new addi- tion to the community. We sat and waited awhile but nobody else came. Mr. Loughridge read a chapter from the Bible and Mrs. Loughridge had in her hand a book of Psalms. She led in singing, and as the Martins and my- self were not familiar with their kind of singing, she and Mr. L. had it all to do. When they had sung, Mr. L. said, "Let us pray.'' We all knelt and Mr. L. prayed. They REMINISCENCES. 93 sang another Psalm and then Mr. L. asked Mr. Martin to pray. Mr. Martin prayed, while we all knelt again. That ended the services. Mr. Loughridge was a tall, broad-shouldered, manly, honest-looking man, with what is called red, or "sandy" complexion; Mrs. L's complexion was much like her hus- band's, but not quite so dark. All their children had complexions mc^re or less like their parents. The Lough- ridges were worthy and substantial citizens. The chil- dren of these worthy people, some of them grand-parents long ago, have done honor to the covenenter stock from which they sprnag. Two of their sons are ministers. Albert, the baby, born in that crude and humble cabin, has spent years as a Christian missionary in India. Not long after the time I have been telling about, two or three more families of Quakers settled in that neighborhood, and some time in the Autumn of '44 those Quakers met at the house of Thomas Stafford and organ- ized themselves into a "meeting," and for many months met every Sunday at Thomas Stafford's house and held their meetings of silent worship. There was no minister among them. I often attended those meetings, where not a word was spoken, but all sat for one hour in silent meditation. Thomas Staff'ord was the rich man of the neighor- hood. I have heard it said, and presume it is true, that he was worth more money than any man in the county; that is, he had mere actual cash. I was told by persons who were supposed to know, that he received eighteen thousand dollars in cash for his farm in Tippecanoe County, Indiana, and had all that money at his disposal 94 MAHASKA COUNTY when he came to the "New Purchase" in '43. Eighteen thousand dollars seemed an immense sum then. It was a foundation for an immense fortune in a country of such possibilities as this country possessed at that time. Thomas Stafford and wife were elderly people then; their family of nine children were all g^rown and all married but two, William and Elam. William w^as married in the Spring of '45 to Eliza Stanley. Elam was the Dr. Staf- ford whom everybody in this country knows. He mar- ried Sallie Stanley, sister to Eliza, William's wife. Those Stanley girls were daughters of John Stanley, a Quaker, who owned and lived on a very line farm, or claim, near the "deserted village" of Kishkekash, on the bluffs of Skunk River. Mr. Stanley had two other daughters, Edith and Ann, now Mrs. Conner and Mrs. Gray. Eliza died many years ago. Every one of them were excellent women. I had been at my uncle's several days, and had n(jt seen my other relatives, Dr. Seth Hobbs and his wife Elizabeth. The doctor had made, or bought a claim in '43, built a cabin, decided to make that his home, practice medicine, and at the same time improve his land. The doctor, in the Spring of '44, went back to his old home in Southern Indiana, married "the girl he left behind him," and brought her to his cabin in the wilderness. Aunt Delilah and I decided one day to visit these relatives. We had a pleasant walk and a pleasant talk along the road. They called it a mile and a quarter. The road or path, part of the way, was along a ravine with woods on one side and a little prairie or glade on the other. Golden rod and thousands of other yellow bios- REMINISCENCES. 95 soms lined the path. The path looked strange and I re- marked to my amit: ''This is a fmmy road, so narrow and worn down so deep." Aunt Delilah laughed and said: "Why, child! I forgot to tell thee: we are in a regular Indian trail. This was their main trail from their village on Skunk river to another village on the Des Moines, and the reason the track is so narrow and worn is that they always ride their ponies single file, no matter how many they string out, one after another, and keep in the same track. This trail has been traveled by Indians nobody knows how long." When we started, aunt said, "Semira, we had better take a good-sized, strong stick, for we might come onto a rattlesnake; they are plentiful about here." We armed ourselves with sticks but had no occa- sion to use them, for we didn't see a snake the entire way. Our cousins lived in the woods but had a field cleared and fenced, wherein was growing a luxuriant crop of corn and vegetables. The doctor and his wife seemed overjoyed to see us — and how happy and con- tented they were! The doctor was a carpenter, along with his other accomplishments, and had made their cabin look very cozy and comfortable. The puncheon floor was fitted neatly at the joints; and on one side of the room was a lot of shelves, very neatly put up, and filled with the doctor's bottles and medicine jars. There were more little home-made, convenient things in that cabin than any I saw. The doctor's taste ran in that way and his wife was like him. They both had the faculty of making the most and best of everything about them. Elizabeth had a big pine box for a cooking table, placed in a way to use the inside for her cooking utensils; had a calico 96 MABASKA COUNTY curtain hung in front of said box; some shelves in a cor- ner for her dishes; wooden hooks placed here and there on the wall and about the fire-place to hang things on. They had two beds, and like the others around there util- ized the space underneath to stow away trunks, boxes, and bundles. The doctor had nearly all the practice for many miles around, for he was the only doctor there was in that region. There was a Dr. Boyer, who lived ten or twelve miles away on the Des Moines river, who doctored ague patients on that river, while Dr. Hobbs dosed out Peruvian bark to the ague afflicted on the Skunk. Dr. Porter had just come to the newly located county seat, Oskaloosa. Dr. Hobbs knew something about nearly everybody in the country. The doctor's wife and I planned to go on horseback some day to Oskaloosa. To- ward evening aunt and I went home along the Indian trail, after having spent a pleasant day. I hadn't been in that neighborhood long, when Uncle Aaron began talking to his neighbors about building a school-house and employing me to teach. Nearly every family anywhere near who had children old enough to go to school fell in with my uncle's proposition, which was to meet on an appointed day and build a cabin, similar to the other cabins about, and have me teach school in it. My cousins. Dr. Hobbs and wife, made it so pleasant for me ^it their house that I visited them often. The doctor was an educated man and had a fund of general information. He attended medical lectures at Lexington, Ky. He knew Henry Clay and his family, and was often at their home, ''Ashland." I used to make the doctor tell about their library, their dining-room, their grounds, R*]MINISCENCES. 97 and iust what kind of looking" people Mr. and Mrs. Clay were. Henry Clay encourag"ed the young" medical students to visit him. He would invite them into his library, and there set them at their ease by his tact and g-enuine g-ood breeding. Then he would branch off on some subject both instructive and entertaining". One day when I was at the doctor's his wife, Elizabeth, and I made all our ar- rang"ements to visit the new county seat. The doctor had been there often, but his wife and I had never seen the town. My uncle had a handsome black horse called "Phillis'' and Aunt Delilah w^as the possessor of a side- saddle. They g"ave me the privileg"e of using" that horse and saddle as often as necessary. On the appointed day. w^hich was the 14th of Septem- ber, 1844, I rode Phillis over to the doctor's. The doctor had a very g"ood horse which he saddled for his wife. We dressed ourselves in pretty good style and early in the afternoon were ready to mount our steeds and be off. The doctor being" a gallant gentleman, went out in front of the fence where a big stump stood handy and assisted us to mount. After we were seated in our saddles, the doctor seemed to think there might be something" not al- together safe, so he took hold of my horse's bridle, ex- amined the throat-latch, then examined the surcingle, thought it not quite tight enough and drew it up another notch; then, giving my horse a gentle stroke dowai his mane, and ending by stri})ping his foretop through his hand, he went over the same performance with his wife's horse. After the doctor had adjusted our surcingles and bridles to his satisfaction, he then proceeded to give us directions how to find Oskaloosa. He pointed to a dim 98 MAHASKA COUNTY road which led out south a little way (w^e couldu't see far ahead in the timber) and then he began: ''Now, girls, after you cross that slough turn to the right, follow along where you see the trees blazed, and pretty soon you will come to a road where people have been hauling rails and wood; keep on that road until you come to a creek, where you will see some logs lying lengthwise in the creek as a kind of bridge; go slow and you will get over all right; after you have crossed the creek (which is about dry now) keep straight on the plainest road you see, which will take you through timber a half a mile or so; when you have gotten to the top of the hill after crossing the creek, you can then begin to see the open prairie; just ketp on until you come to a road v/hich looks like it had been traveled a good deal; that road is right on the divide; when j^ou come to that road turn to the right, and be sure you keep in the main track, and when you have gone about two miles you will have reached the town of Oskaloosa. You will find two stores in.Oskaloosa. One has a red flannel cloth hanging, out by the door, and the other has a sign (m the top with the word 'Grocery' on it." We followed the doctor's directions and found every- thing, trees blazed, logs thrown in the bottom of the creek which had very little water in it, and all just as he had told us. When v*^e reached the prairie and that much- traveled road, and turned to the right, no town was in sfght, so vv^e rode on and talked, and admired the charming scenery all about us. I was looking at some beautiful groves over south, when my companion sudden- ly threw up her hands and exclaimed, "Oskaloosa!" REMINISCENCES. 99 We stopped, sat on our horses and gazed. I think we were near where Mr. William Burnside now lives when we made the discovery. I had seen many crude and in- significant-looking- towns, but Oskaloosa was the crudest and the poorest looking town T ever saw. The country all around was all that could be desired in prairie, lying high and dry, tall grass waving, and the most beautiful groves here and there, looking like they were just invit- ing people to come and live in them. We saw one log house some little distance to the right of the road which we afterward learned was Mr. Alfred Seevers'. There was another log house over to the left which was daring enough to stand on the bare prairie without a single tree within a half mile. This place seemed to be about a mile from the little cluster of cabins called Oskaloosa. That, we w^ere informed, was Mr. James Seevers' place. After we had discovered Oskaloosa we sat and gazed at it for perhaps five minutes. How squatt}^ those little bits of cabins looked, with not a thing to relieve the barrenness except the tall blue-stem grass. From some of them could be seen smoke issuing from a joint of stovepipe protruding through a clapboard roof. The doctor had told us how we would know the business houses. He said: ''You will, on first going into town, see a small log house with a red flannel cloth hanging out by the door. That is Smith & Cameron's store. A little farther over you will see a cabin with a sign on top, fastened to a weight-pole, on which is painted in large letters the word 'Grocery.' That establishment is owned by the Jones Brothers & Grossman." As we sat gazing at the prospect before us, I counted Vf 100 MAHASKA COUNTY the houses. It wasn't hard to do, for every house stood out distinctly from every other house. There were just fifteen of those rude dwellings and business places on September 14, 1844. We came in town from a south- easterly direction and kept looking- for that red flannel sign. Didn't see it at first, as we came in on the wrong side of the house. That house, Smith & Cameron's, was on lot one, block tw^enty-eight, old plat. Its front was toward the square, wdiere there was a great log elevated on forks or posts, with many big wooden pegs driven into it in a convenient way for hitching horses. As we entered the town we saw no human being, man, woman, or child, but as we rode up to the store and just around the corner, where we could see that flaming scarlet sign, a gentleman came out of the store door. My first thought on seeing that gentleman was, ''What a splendid looking man, and what a poor little town!" He w^as, I thought, as fine a looking specimen of young manhood as I had ever seen. He was tall, with stately bearing, handsome and distin- guished looking. He came toward us, bowed and smiled, led our horses up to a big box of lime (I could see the lime through the cracks), assisted us to alight, and then invited us to walk into the store. He led our horses to that hitching place, threw the bridles over some of those pegs, and then harried into the store. He was making an effort to display some of the w^ares offered for sale in the store, when another gentleman came in at the back door. The first gentleman immediately gave up his ef- forts to show goods and turned all over to the second gentleman, who w^e were soon made to understand was one of the projn-ietors. I bought a pair of shoes which UEMINiSCENCKS. 101 I thought would be the kind to walk over hazel stubs with, my companion made some purchases, and then we walked over to the other mercantile house with the sign of "Grocery" on top. That house stood on lot six, block twenty, old plat. Neither of those houses carried a very heavy stock of goods, but quite enough to supply the de- mand. We left the town without knowing the names of any of the three gentlemen we had met. But when we told the doctor about our adventures and described the gentlemen to him, he could tell us just who they were. "That line looking young man whom you met lirst is Mica j ah T. Williams: he is a lawyer and clerk of the court. The one you dealt with is Leper Smith, one of the proprietors; his family lives in one of those little cabins. The man you saw at the sign of 'Grocery' was Mr. A. D. Jones, another lawyer, not one of the proprietors, but another Jones altogether." We asked the doctor how those lawyers came to be clerking in those stores. "O," he said, "I can explain that easy enough. You see, they have come to Oskaloosa to lo- cate, and the place is so new, and accommodations for any who have not come prepared to take care of them- selves is so poor, they have to do any way they can. Those young lawyers make the stores their stopping places through the day. They get their meals and a place to sleep in some of those cabins amongst the families. They will all divide their last bit of corn bread with a young fellow who wants to locate in the town." The doctor had bought some lots in the town and liad been there often and knew nearly everybody. At the first sale of lots in Oskaloosa Dr. Hobbs bouglit lot 3, 102 MAHASKA COUNTY block 28, o. p., which is on the south side of the square. He also bought lots 5 and 6, block 17, o. p., which is now the elegant home of Major McMullin By the middle of September, 1841, there were a good many families settled about all through Mahaska County. Over on the Des Moines River and on the six mile prairie were the Boyers, the DeLashmutts, the Wilsons and the Nortons. Up north and west along the Skunk River timber were the Coffins, Samuel and John; the Troys, the Pad gets, the Liters, and about the "centre," just north of Oskaloosa, were the Springers, the Bonds, the Rolands, the Ewings, and not far southeast of the centre was a numerous family by the name of McMurray. Mr. and Mrs. McMurray had five sons and three daughters, nearly all grown and none married. Different denominations were represented. The Cumberland Presbyterians seemed to predominate. The McMurrays were Cumber- land Presbyterians. Smith & Cameron, of the store with the red flag, and several others in and around Oskaloosa were members of that church. The McMurrays had come from Illinois in '43, had lived in a little cabin like the others, but at the time I am speaking of had just fin- ished a hewed log house, and while it was brand new and the weather was pleasant they proposed to hold an all- day meeting on Sunday, September 15th. They sent away down to Jefferson, or Van Buren County, for a noted minister whom they called "Uncle Johnny Berry." The McMurrays managed to send word to all parts of the county that there would be meeting at their house on tliat day. My friends, Patterson and Amanda Martin, invited me to go with them to that meeting. They were REMINISCENCES. 103 g-oing- in an ox-wagon, and if I would accept a seat in that humble vehicle they w^ould be happy to have me do so. I gdadly accepted their kind offer, and when Patter- son and Amanda and little ''Mary" came along that Sun- day morning" they found me dressed in my black silk dress, straw bonnet and long black lace veil. I supposed I would see the greater part of the inhab- itants of Mahaska County there that day, and for that reason I wanted to make as good an appearance as possi- ble. I wondered if the people generally would go in ox wagcms. I thought a g"Ood many would, as people rode about in this new place in any kind of rig they happened to have. They were not very particular about the kind of a team they drove, or vehicle they rode in. If the team was gentle and the wagon strong, that w^as all they required. Those clumsy wagons and ox teams were in- dispensable in opening up a new country. I think very few of those men and women who had come with the pur- pose of making homes in the wilderness, came wdth any thought of being dissatisfied, disgusted, or surprised at the most commonplace and crude way of living and trav- eling about. It seemed to be the natural order of things; the people accepted it and went on. I don't think Pat- terson, Amanda, little Mary or I felt any twinges of pride worry us, or thouglit seriously of the fitness or unfitness of things as we sat in those splint-bottom, straight-backed chairs in that long wagon bed. As we slowly moved along near that Indian trail through groves and glades and little native meadows, our thoughts were of the great number of strange people we were likely to see at that meeting. Y7e hoped also to 104 MAHASKA COUNTY enjoy the preaching", shiging, and praying. The Martins had not had any such privileg-e of worship for months. 1 was glad of any kind of a meeting' to go to. Tliough our oxen were of the patient, well behaved kind, they would, as we passed throug-h masses of yellow and purple blos- soms and long- stemmed grass, reach out and snatch a mouthful of the tempting- stuft" occasionally, in spite of Mr. Martin's gentle taps with the ox-gad and his "wo haw. Buck!" and ''gee, Brin!'' The distance was not great, only two and one-half miles, and we were among the first to arrive. The McMurrays, who had a house full of grown sons, and who were polite and accommo- dating, took us in the new log house and gave Amanda and I some very comfortable seats. They had jirovided seats for a large number of people. There were two beds in the room and a table for the minister with a Bible and Hymn Book on. The balance of the space in the new log house was filled with benches made of jDuncheons. The one Amanda and I occupied was placed along the side of a bed, which made a comfortable back to lean against, and besides that, was so placed that we could see every one who came in without more than turning our heads a little. The people kept coming in, and in a few minutes the house was about full. I could see that the yard was full. Among the early comers who procured a seat in the house was Micajah Williams, the distinguished looking young man whom I had seen the day before, and who had treated the other young lady and myself with such Ches- terfieldian politeness. Mr. Williams brought with him a young lady whom I had not seen. She, I thought, was one of the handsomest girls I ever saw. Her complexion REMINISCENCES. 105 was fair as fair could be, with just enoug"h piuk in her cheeks. Her eyes were blue, her hair a lig-ht brown, and her mouth was simply perfect, while her form was lithe and willowy. Persons who read this may think I am ex- aggerating, but if anybody who knew Mica j ah Williams and Virginia Seevers in '44 ever reads this, they will say, "She is telling the. truth.'' I sat there and wondered how two such elegant and charming looking young people ever happened to find each other out in this almost un- broken wilderness. Presently another person of somewhat striking ap- pearance stepped in the door and stood a few moments as if looking for a seat, when some one made room for him just by the door. As he stood in the door I glanced him up and down, and in much less time than it takes me to write it, I decided in my mind that he w^as a young man of the sort which suited my taste. He was a little less than six feet high, well formed, symmetrically built, and graceful in his movements. Had dark brown hair, a little inclined to curl, large gray eyes, an honest and fearless expression about his face. • He was what I thought a manly looking young man. In the meantime the ministers and others were pre- paring to begin the services. The McMurray boys were all members of the church, and were prominent singers in meetings like that. They gathered about the preach- ers, who w^ere on the other side of the room from where I sat, and watched the people come in. Directly they be- gan singing that good old hymn, "Coronation,'" and were making it fairly ring. My attention at first was attracted to their singing, but liearing the most charming, soft, lOB MAHASKA COUNTY mellow bass I had ever heard, I looked around and per- ceived that those mellow tones were made by the voice of my g"ray-eyed champion. There was more singing and more listening by me to that mellow bass; more admiring beautiful Virginia Seevers and that young "Apollo," Micaiah Williams. There was a very respectable looking congregation. They seemed to have gone down into their boxes and chests and drawn out their old-fashioned finery, shaken it, brushed it, and donned it for the occasion, Mr. Berry preached, Mr. Jolly prayed, and the congregation sang, led by the McMurrays. The forenoon services were ended, and a recess of two hours was announced, the congregation being dismissed with an earnest invitation to attend the afternoon meeting. The McMurrays invited Mr. and Mrs. Martin and myself to take dinner with them and we accepted the kind invitation. As soon as the meeting was out 1 walked out in the yard, and was surprised to see so many people all through the grove. Horses and oxen were hitched everywhere, and there were a great many heavy lumber wagons. I had expected to see a good many people, but not quite such a crowd. They soon began to disperse. Among others, I saw that young "Apollo'' and the beautiful Virginia mount their steeds and go flying off over the prairie toward Oskaloosa. I met my old acquaintance, Dr. Porter, and had a friendly interview with him. He seemed to know a good many of the people. I asked him who that beautiful young lady was with Mr. Williams. He said, "She is Miss Seevers, daughter of Mr. James Seevers, who lives about a mile southeast of town. I have not made her acquaintance, REMINISCENCES. 107 but she is a beauty, isn't she?'' I asked who that young g-entleman was, designating- the one with the line bass voice. "Oh!" he said, ''Do you remember the Phillips family I told you about the morning I overtook you away down the road?" "Yes, I remember." "Well," he went on to say, "That is Mr. Gorrell Phillips, the eldest son of A. G. Phillips. The family live adjoining town, or where we expect to have a town. They are edl singers, and we think are about right generally." In walking about the grounds surrounding the McMurray home, I met a handsome, well dressed young woman with a baby in her arms. Se had beautiful yellow hair, brown eyes, a clear complexion, and was nice looking generally. I went up to her and engaged in conversation. We were all sociable and didn't stand on ceremony then, and I told her who I was and she told me that she was Mrs. John White, and lived about a mile north of Oskaloosa. Her baby's name, she said, was "Anestatia." She invited me to visit her. I thanked her and assured her that I would do so if the opportunity ever came. The cabin which had formerly been the sole residence of the McMurray family was near the hewed-log house, and was used now as kitchen and dining room. It had, like others of its kind, a very w^ide fire-place, where the cooking was done. Sarah McMurray was the young lady of the family and was a "host within herself." That day, with very little assistance, she prepared and served an excellent dinner to at least twenty persons besides their own family. I wondered then, and have wondered ever since, at the grace and ease with which she fed that multitude. To watch her seat one table full after another. 108 MAHASKA COUNTY and bring" on such bountiful supplies of good, wholesome food, one would have thought there was no end to her re- sources. Cooking for a multitude by a log heap fire in one of those wide fire-places may now, I think, be reck- oned one of the "lost arts." That was my first acquaint- ance with Sarah McMurray, but not by any means the last. I knew her well for many years. She w^as as capa- ble of entertaining a room-full at repartee as she was of serving a dinner to a multitude under difficnlties, and as ready to minister to the sick w4th fevers as she was to in- dulge in repartee. She not only relieved her mother of all household cares and made all her own handsome dresses (she did have handsome, nice-fitting dresses even then), but prepared dainties, cleaned up the cabins, cut, made, and mended the clothes for the children of sick mothers down on the Skunk river bottom. The afternoon meeting at Mc Murray s was not so well attended as that in the morning, but there was a good audience of quiet, earnest, well-behaved people. Mr. Jolly preached, and one good old Christian lady whom the McMurrays called "Aunt Polly Mathews," became so happy during the meeting she shouted for joy. When that meeting ended, we again seated ourselves in our splint-bottomed chairs in that long wagon, after having bidden good-bye and thanked the McMurrays for their kind and hospitable treatment. "Buck" and "Brin," those patient yoke -fellows, seemed to have spent the day in quiet contentment, chained to a sapling, in the shade near the outskirts of the grove. They had not, while the rest of us were feasting, been allowed to fast, for soon after our arrival Mr. Martin liad placed at tlieir disposal RE^IINISCENCES. 109 a sh{^ck of new mown g'rass procured from a slough near by. Evidently the supply of g"rass had more than met the dem.ands of hung^er, for while "Buck" was patiently standing" holding up his end of the yoke, "Brin'' had lain down on the remainder of that nutritious provender and was quietly chewing his cud. Mr. Martin, after unfasten- ing the chain from the sapling", took his gad, gave a gentle tap or two, spoke a few words which these docile animals seemed to understand, for they leisurely came up and took their respective places by the wagon tongue. Mr. Martin hooked one end of the chain in the yoke, fastened the other to the houns, then climbed in, seated hhnself, and gave the signal to "Buck" and "Brin" which started us back through groves and glades, tall trees and yellow blossoms, to our homes, where we arrived just as the sun was going down on that eventful and pleasant September day. That evening I related to my uncle and aunt and cousins all incidents of the meeting- and trip, which amused and interested them. Dear Aunt Delilah was interested in all my affairs, and I confided all my little joys and sorrows to her as I used to do to my mother. She was like a mother to me and gave me her counsel and sympathy. The next morning I was to begin teach- ing "Mahaska's first school." no MAHASKA COUNTY CHAPTER X. Mrs. Effie Hoffman Rog-ers was comity superintendent of schools in Mahaska County in 1893. One day she came to my house and informed me that she was going- to ask me to do something-, and would not take "No" for an answer. I wondered what it could be. She proceeded to tell me of a scheme she had originated; she went on to say: "I am going to hold Normal in Penn College, which will begin in three weeks. I am going to request three Oskaloosa ladies, on different days of the session, to give a talk to the teachers and students, each on a dif- ferent subject. The ladies that I have chosen are Mrs. Judge Blanchard, Miss Mary Loring, and yourself. What I want you to talk about is Mahaska's first school, and the progress made since in schools, facilities for teach- ing, and educational work generally in Mahaska County. You taught the first school and you are the one to tell about it. You are supposed to know the facts and to be able to tell them more correctly than any other person. Mrs. Blanchard and Miss Loring have consented and I am not going to let you go until you consent." I told MAHASKA COUNTY 111 her I never could do that in the world. If I should under- take to make a speech before the talent and brains assembled in an institution like that, I would blunder and stammer and make such a failure that she and all the rest would be sorry I had undertaken it. She kept on urging' me until the thought came to me, ''I might write it up and read my story, if that would do." I told her my thought and she said, ''That will do."' I promised to do the best I could and she went away. ■ In a few days the program was out with my name down for a ''talk". I felt that I couldn't back out after that. So I wrote the story of "Mahaska's first school" as well and as truthfully as I could do it now, and vrill in this story give it just as I read it to that assembly in Penn College on June 27, 1893: MAHASKA'S FIRST SCHOOL. Fifty years sounds like a long time to the young; 1843 seems to young people of to-day like a time away in the dim past. It don't seem so long ago to those who were young men and young women then. In 1843 a con- siderable tract of as iine land as the eye of man ever be- held (of which Mahaska County vos a part) had been purchased by the United States from the Indians. The Indians having on the first day of May of that year peaceably retired to lands further west, this charming region was open to settlement by civilized white people. A number of families from the settlements near the Miss- issi])pi river took advantage of this opportunity to make for themselves homes. That was before the day of the telegraph. There was not a railroad within hundreds of miles of this grand region. Yet somehow its fame had reached the ears of men and women away in the eastern 112 MAHASKA COUNTY states and in the middle states, whose hearts were brave, fortunes small, and children many. Some of those hon- est, courageous, intelligent sons and daughters of Illi- nois, Indiana, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and Virginia packed their few household goods into wagons, bade farewell to the scenes of their childhood, the old familiar meeting house, the school house, and with horses or ox teams slowly wended their way toward this lovely but unculti- vated garden. Some of these men left their families in the inhabited portions of the territory whilst they staked out their claims and built log" cabins. One room sufficed for a family, small or larg'e. Some of these families even lived for a while in bark huts which had been left by the Indians, where beads were lying about in such quantities that children picked them up by the pint. Kishkekosii is not found on the map of Mahaska County to-day. But that "deserted village" once had an existence on the bluffs overlooking the classic Skunk. Near the deserted village was a deserted burying ground, where in shallow graves in a sitting posture were found skeletons of Indians of long ago. The young doctor of the settlement, being archeologically inclined, helped himself to one of these skeletons; his purpose, no doubt, being the advancement of science. To the south and west of this village lay a stretch of country, prairie, in- terspersed with groves, the beauty of which in its prim- itive state no pen can truly describe. These groves of lind and drooping elms, bordered with a fringe of crab apple and plum trees, just as God planted them, had a beauty all their own. This charming place chanced to be discovered by some of God's noblemen brave, REMINISCENCES. 113 broad-shouldered, manly men. The wives of these men were brave, too. The most of these pioneer men and women had been accustomed to the ordinary comforts of life, but they accepted the situation cheerfully. The men staked out their claims, built rude log" cabins, broke their ground, made rails and fenced their fields, planted their crops, and" went to work to establish homes and provide for their families. These families brought their religion with them. In nearly every one of these rude cabins was erected an altar to the living God. When they gathered around their tables scantily supplied with coarse food, they bowed their heads and gave thanks. There were no houses of worship except "God's first temples," these beautiful groves. Nor was there on September 1, 1844, a school-house in all this region called Mahaska County. Sometime in August of that year a young lady came to accept the offered shelter of a home in the family of a relative who had settled in that neighborhood. This young lady had taught two terms of school. Said young lady had ciphered as far as the single rule of three, knew a little about Kirkham's grammar, something about geog- raphy, could write a fair hand, had been first choice at spelling schools, and had been known to spell down a whole school. Heads of families in this primitive settle- ment straightway set about devising means whereby they might avail themselves of the service of the learned young woman as instructor to their children. In order to accomplish this it was necessary to erect a school- house. Although the official surveyors had not as yet designated the section lines, those men had guessed 114 MAHASKA COUNTY about where they were, and had staked off their claims accordinj^dy. Each sixteenth section having been donated by the g-overnment to the pul)lic for school purposes, was in this case taken advantage of. This sixteenth section was covered mostly with timber — oak, elm, and lind, with lind predominating. Lind trees are not only beautiful to look upon, but easy to chop and split. One man who particularly felt an interest in having a school-house, and in this young girl also, went around and invited five or six others to join him in the enterprise. They readily acquiesced, set a day to commence, repaired to the woods on the border of the sixteenth section, taking with them axes, mauls, wedges, froes, augers, saws, and br-oad axes. They then proceeded to chop down some lind trees, not taking time to hew them, but built a cabin of round logs, leaving the bark on. They rived out boards of oak to cover it, putting weight-poles on to hold the boards in place. The floor, benches, and writing desk were made of puncheon. Puncheons are made of logs, split and made smooth on one side by hewing with a broad axe. Some of these early settlers had become experts in hew- ing puncheons and riving clap-boards. This "temple of learning" was supplied with a sod chimney, a hearth long and wide; not made with stone or brick, but with rich, black loam. A log was sawed out of one side of the house, leaving a space eight or ten feet long, for the pur- pose of admitting light. One of these primitive carpen- ters, with a pocket knife, whittled out sticks the proper length, then placed them in an upright position at regular distances apart along this opening. Glass being a luxury not easily obtained, oiled foolscap paper was pasted over REMINISCENCES. 115 this improvised window sash. In laying" the foundation of this edifice the architects were particular to observe the points of the compass. A door was made by sawing out log's to the proper heighth and width. No shutter was provided, only an opening- looking- toward the south. When the sun shone there was no trouble in telling- when noon came. In order that things mig-ht be done in a business-like manner, an article of agTeement was drawn up which read something- like the following: ''Articles of agreement made and entered into this, the ninth day of September, one thousand, eight hundred and forty-four, between Semira A. Hobbs of the first part, and the undersigned subscribers of the second part, for the consideration of the compensation hereinafter named, the party of the first part agrees to teach a term of school embracing thirteen weeks, beginning on Mon- day, September sixteenth, one thousand, eight hundred and forty-four. The party of the first part further agrees to keep good order to the best of her ability, and teach the following branches, namely: spelling, reading, writing, arithmetic, geograph}^, and English grammar, for the sum of one dollar and twenty-five cents i^er scholar. The party of the second part, for the faithful performance of the above promises, agree to pay the above named sum, to- wit: one dollar and twenty-five cents, for as many as are attached to our names. "Aaron Cox, 6. "Nathan Coontz, 3. "Brantley Stafford, 1. "poultney loughridge, 5. "John Cunningham, 3." IK) MAHASKA COUNTY The 16th was ushered in with a charming- morning. The sun rose bright and clear. Everything looked aus- picious—even the corn blades and pumpkin vines looked glad. There was a hurrying and scurrying among the girls and boys to find their books and slates, which had so long been unused. Then this young girl teacher with six pupils, all members of the same family, with a basket of corn bread, some dried apple pie and a bottle of milk, went tripping over prairie and through groves to the new school-house a mile and a quarter away. How clean and white that puncheon floor looked, how mellow the light through that oiled paper window, how clean of any speck of ashes or soot that sod fire-place. Directly there could be seen coming from different directions, bearing their dinner baskets and books, groups of bright, healthy, hap- py-looking children. These children came supplied with such books as happened to be in their home; several kinds of spellers, almost as many kinds of readers as there were children who could read. One of the larger girls brought an Olney's geography and atlas. That atlas had a map in it called the "Map of the United States," but on that map was no Minnesota, no Dakota, no Nebraska, no Kansas, no New Mexico, nor Colorado, nor Wyoming, nor Idaho, nor Montana, nor Utah, nor Nevada, nor Arizona, nor any State called Washington or California. This map was kind of three-cornered: at the upper left hand corner, bordering on the Pacific Ocean, wa-i a rather narrow looking strip called Oregon Territory. Between the Missouri River and the Rocky Mountains was a great almost blank space designated "uninhabited," and supposed to be uninhabitable. That REMINISCENCES, ll7 young" girl teacher with those crude facilities did her best to instruct those boys and g-irls in the rudiments of what is called a "common school" education. . Every one of them were well-behaved, obedient children, tried hard to learn and made creditable advancement. That was one of Iowa's typical Falls. The prairies and sloughs were covered with yellow and purple blossoms. The g-roves with their borders of sumach and hazel were aglow with all the shades of green and red and yellow and brown. Deer and rabbits scamper over prairie and slough, then darting into the thick groves were soon out of sight. Those pioneers were good marksmen, and along with their corn bread had venison and prairie chicken in abundance. One evening on returning from school the teacher was informed that the head of the family had kflled a bear. The warm, hazy Indian Summer days lasted till away toward the last of November. But there came a time eventually when the sky was leaden and the northeast winds brought flakes of snow, which would sift through the chinks in the roof and walls, would scurry around and find their way in through that open door. When the cold became severe one of the kind, thoughtful mothers sent a coverlet to hang over the door. There was no lack of fuel, as there were great big chips, the result of that puncheon hewing, and plenty of dry sticks lying all about which made splendid fires. That big dirt hearth, by much tramping of little feet, in course of time became sunken to the depth of eight or ten inches below the level of the floor, the edge of which made a convenient seat, where the scholars could keep their feet warm and 118 MAHASKA COUNTY at the same time study their lessons. The teacher occu- pied a more dig-nified seat, as a straig'ht-backed splint- bottomed chair had been provided for her. The last two or three of the thirteen weeks seemed to drag- along* pretty slow, but teacher nor scholars ever hinted at such a thing- as giving up. These boys and g-irls had pluck. They kept warm if they could, but did not whine if they were a little cold. They were used to cold houses, with only a fireplace, where the face would burn while the back would freeze. That was the order of thing's generally. There was not a stove of any kind in the whole community. The corn bread was baked in skillets with coals underneath and coals on the lid. The meat and turnips were boiled in pots set on the fire. The hospitality extended to strangers in those little log- cab- ins would amaze the dwellers in Oskaloosa's homes to- day. Some of the boys and g-irls who were a part of that little group which composed that humble school, have joined the great majority. They who remain are old peo- ple now — some are g-rand fathers and g-randmothers. All are useful and respectable members of society, the kind we call the bone and sinew of the countr3^ Great things have often grown from very humble beginnings. That crude log cabin school-house with its oiled paper win- dows, puncheon floor and sod chimney, its little band of scholars and undeveloped teacher formed the nucleus around which have grown substantial school-houses with all the facilities for teaching- on nearly every section of land in Mahaska County. Not only the country district school, but high schools with scholarly teachers, and col- leges with a corps of professors of which Oskaloosa may REMINISCENCES. 119 justly be proud. That first school was a small affair, but was in keeping- with other things. Thing-s g-enerally were small and crude and humble. About two and a half miles to the west of the spot whereon was located this much mentioned school, there was .a very diminutive villag-e. This villag^e did as other villag"es are said to have done. It nestled, not in moun- tain nooks, by babbling- brooks, but in the prairie grass. Each one of the fifteen log- cabins seemed to be cuddled down in a nest of its own trying to hide in a species of grass known as "blue stem." This village, when first seen by that much mentioned teacher, on Saturday before the opening of that school, was only three months old, but had been christened "Oskaloosa." These first im- pressions of Oskaloosa were made from a view, taken when half a mile or more away. On coming into the town there was found to be in one of these little log cabins a store of general merchandise with a piece of red flannel hung out by the door to designate the kind of business carried on within. When Oskaloosa was visited a month later, dozens of frame houses had been built and occupied. Charles Purvine had built and was keeping a tavern (they did not call them hotels then) where the Downing House is now. A. J. Davis, the Montana millionaire, had a store on the north side of the square. Wm. B. Street had a store on the west side. There were two blacksmith shops and one tailor shop. All this in October, 1844. The people who founded Oskaloosa were rustlers. Most of the men and women who first occupied those little log cabins were intelligent, high-souled, and full of pluck. Oskaloosa's daughters of to-day may be more scholarly, 120 MAHASKA COUNTY but no more honorable and modest than her girls of '44. The young men who came with little money but lots of brains, have made their way to fortune and to fame. Some of the children and grandchildren of those early log cabin dwellers are to-day among Oskaloosa's most re- spected and influential citizens. REMINISCENCES. 121 CHAPTER XI. In the summer of 1844, when I was teaching school in the Brazelton neig^hborhood near Mt. Pleasant, one evening- just as I was leaving- the school-house for my boarding- place, two women came along- on horseback. Each had a pair of saddle-bags thrown across her horse, and a bag- or bundle hang-ing on the horn of the saddle. They halted a little and spoke to me. I immediately be- came interested in them and we entered into conversa- tion. They informed me that they w^ere trying- to reach Trenton that evening; had come from somewhere in Illi- nois that day, and had crossed the Mississippi at Bur- lington. I asked them where they lived. One of them said, "We are sisters and live away up in the New Pur- chase." We became more interested in each other when I told them about my relatives who were also living- in the New Purchase. They w^ere well acquainted with my relatives, and as I walked along the road and talked with them they told me about their husbands and children, and how they came to go back to Illinois where they moved from to Iowa. Business and pleasure combined had taken 122 MAHASKA COUNTY them back to the old neighborhood after living a year in the wilds of the New Purchase. Their husbands had to take care of their claims and crops, and they were brave enough to make the journey alone and on horseback. One of those ladies was Mrs. Newton Seevers, who said she had two daughters old enough to keep house for their father in her absence. The other lady was Mrs. John W. Cunningham. She lived nearer my uncle's and could tell me much about them. Those women had a genuine, respectable, kindly appearance which drew me toward them, and made an impression on me at once which has lasted through all these years. There seemed to be little prospect at that time of my ever seeing them again, though Mrs. Cunningham remarked when we parted, "I wish you would come up to the New Purchase and teach school, for I have a boy and two little girls that I would like to send to school to you." We bade each other good- bye, all expressing the pleasure it had given us to have met in so unlooked-for a way, and hoped that we would meet again. Circumstances which I have already related brought me to the New Purchase, and not long after my arrival I became well acquainted with the Cunningham family. A warm friendship was established between that family and myself which has lasted until the present day. The boy, Joseph, and his sisters, Lizzie and Ella, were among my pupils in "Mahaska's first school." Mr. Cunningiiam was a man of more than ordinary intelligence, and was much better informed than the average pioneer settler. The whole family had gentle manners, and dispensed so hospitably their plain new country fare that it was a solid REMINISCENCES. 123 pleasure to visit them. Mr. Cunningham had a fine claim situated about two miles east of Oskaloosa. Mr. Charles Chick owns and lives on that place now. Joseph Cun- ning-ham died in early manhood. Lizzie and Ella grew to be lovely and handsome women. Lizzie married a gen- tlemen by the name of Barr and lives in Illinois. Ella married Dr. J. F. Smith, a Virginian, a successful busi- ness man and an honorable gentleman. Mr. and Mrs. Cunningham have long since been gathered to their fathers. I have seen the fourth generation of that fam- ily, and all are a credit to their worthy ancestors. Mrs. Seevers has been a widow for many years. She is now well on toward ninety, but quite well preserved, both physically and mentally. Her home is with her son Thomas Seevers, who is one of Oskaloosa's most pros- perous business men. Thomas Seevers owns and lives in one of the most beautiful homes in the city. There were three families of' Seev^erses who came to Mahaska County and made and located on claims near Oskaloosa in 1843. Newton Seevers, the father of Thomas, whom I have mentioned, and James Seevers, his brother. Newton's claim was less than a mile directly east of the town, while James owned and lived on a fine claim about a mile southeast. . Alfred Seevers, a cousin of Newton and James, was located on a line claim east of Newton's. George Seevers, brother to Alfred, was unmarried when he came, but soon went back to Ohio and married a splen- did girl. He brought her to Iowa and settled on his claim, part of which is now known as Park Place. James and Newton were from Virginia, but Alfred and George were from Ohio. Those Seevers brothers paid much 124 MAHASKA COUNTY attention to fruit raising-. I think they had the first apples of anybody in the county. Some two or three years after the first settling of the country about Oskaloosa, Robert Seevers, a brother to Alfred and George, came with his family from Ohio, and bought a beautiful place a mile or so from town to the southwest, where he and his wife are living- to-day. Robert Seevers, as well as his brothers, has paid much attention to fruit growing-, and has always been authority on apples. When Robert Seevers and his wife came to Mahaska County they were the proud parents of three sons, very small boys then, but now are middle ag-ed men and all prominent citizens of Oskaloosa. Georg-e, the eldest, is a prominent attorney; Byron, the second, is called "the scholar," and Will, the third, is called one of Oskaloosa's best business men. These scions of the house of Seevers must be possessed of judg-ment, personal attractions, luck, or something-, for every last one of them married splendid women. Robert Seevers is over nhiety years old, but is still vig-orous both in body and mind. These Seeverses, James, Newton, Alfred, George and Robert, were the old set, who were men of families, and among- the first settlers about Oskaloosa. Like others that I have mentioned, they lived in log" cabins and patiently and honestly endured the hardships and privations at- tending the settling- of this part of Iowa. The wives of those Seeverses were not lacking in judg-ment, patient endurance and helpfulness — the qualities necessary to enable their husbands to succeed in opening- up a new country. I was acquainted with every one of them and know what I am talkinjr about. While the Seevers men REMINISCENCES. 125 were breaking" prairie, splitting" rails and planting out orchards, the Seevers women were not only cooking", washing" and mending", but were planting" g"ardens and raising" chickens. Besides what was absolutely neces- sary, they whitewashed their cabin w^alls, planted and cultivated the old-fashioned flowers and trained morning"- glory vines about their cabin doors, which gave to their rustic homes a look of sweetness and attractiveness often lacking in moden and expensive homes. Those Seevers men were fine-looking", manly men, honorable and high- spirited, intelligent and honest. The kind of men wdio give credit to any community. With their other com- mendable qualities they happened to have the good sense to choose superior women for their w4ves. If any of the present generation of the Seevers family should become unworthy citizens, they can't blame it to the example of those worthy ancestors. I have known five generations of the Seevers family. Mr. Henry Seevers, the father of James and Newton, came here and spent the summer of 1846 with his sons. He was from Winchester, Virginia, and was a typical Vir- ginia gentleman. He w^ore a black broadcloth swallow- tailed coat, silk hat, and carried a gold-headed cane. He must have been well advanced in years, but was erect and walked with a firm step. He w^as tall and distinguished looking, aft'able, friendly, with the most gentle manners. I met him frequently, and used to think his children and grandchildren must feel very proud of him. He went with the rest of the men in this region on the 4th of July to Fairfield to attend the land sales, where I think the Seeverses all entered the claims they occupied at the first. 126 MAHASKA COUNTY James Seevers and Rebecca, his wife, had six sons and one daughter. William H., the eldest, was a bright young" man; studied law, and was admitted to the bar in an early day. He rose step by step in his profession until he reached a place on the Supreme Bench of Iowa. Three years ago he died, honored and lamented, not only by the whole community in which he had lived, but by the State. In early life he married Miss Caroline Lee, a young lady of more than ordinary intelligence, and possessing many noble traits of character. She survives him, and also five of their children, who are prosperous and respected members of society. As one drives about the town of Oskaloosa, ever and anon they pass an elegant home owned and occupied b}'' some member of the Seevers family. I have known the Seeverses in their rude and rustic cabins, and have lived to see many of them living in luxury and elegance; but whether they dwell in mansion or log cabin, their dignity and self respect has always commanded the respect of their neighbors. The character which riches and honors do not puff up, nor poverty degrade. Mr. James Seevers' beautiful daughter, Virginia, in September, 1845, was married to Micajah T. Williams, whom I have before mentioned as the first man I saw in Oskaloosa. I think they were the handsomest couple I ever saw. The little frame house where they first went to housekeeping stands there yet, looking small, shabby, and dilapidated; but I remember well a time when we young folks all thought it nice indeed. I don't think there were more than half a dozen frame dwelling houses in Oskaloosa when Micajah and Virginia went to house- REMINISCENCES. 127 keeping in that little frame house of two rooms. How sweet and cozy and comfortable that little home looked, with its new rag carpet, and bed so nicely made up with a pretty patch- work quilt and snowy pillows! The little new cooking stove with its bright tin furniture — every piece placed in just what seemed exactly the right place. Talk about "high art." Some of those women who helped to found the town of Oskaloosa, away back in the forties, were artists without knowing it. How plain I can see everything in the unpretentious home of that handsome young couple! though to see it I must look back with the mind's eye over more than half a centery. They lived in that cottage several years, but not w^ithout making several small additions to the same, which ren- dered it wdiat was thought comfortable and convenient in that early day. Their two charming daughters were born in that cottage, but before they became young ladies their parents had purchased and occupied what was at that time one of the most imposing and substantial houses in Oskaloosa. There the daughters, Alice and Beulah Joselle, the pride of their parents and of Oskaloosa, grew to charming, accomplished, and beautiful woman- hood. They were daintily brought up, and had every ad- vantage of education by schools and travel, w^ith the inheritance of beauty, grace, and good sense from their parents. They were not spoiled by high social position and flattering attention. Alice, when quite young, married Mr. George Ben- nett, a talented young man of good family. Alice has been a wddow many years. George, the husband of her youth, like many another bright young man from low^a, 128 MAHASKA COUNTY sleeps his last sleep on the shore of the mighty Pacific. Beulah, their only daug'hter and only child, is a young lady now and is endowed with a fine mind and many no- ble traits of character. Beulah Joselle, "Jo," as we always called her, beautiful, queenly Jo, whose manners were dignified, though kind, gentle, though affable to- ward all, with never an unkind word for any. A queen among Oskaloosa's many lovely daughters, she married Judge L. C. Blanchard, one of Oskaloosa's most promi- nent citizens; a statesman, a successful business man and an honored member of society. Judge Blanchard made for his charming wife an elegant home, but after a few years of happy wedded life that beautiful and peace- ful home was broken into by that relentless reaper who is no respecter of homes nor individuals. The honored, the respected, the idolized Jo was by a weeping multi- tude followed to the city of the dead. In that same si- lent city, under a spreading oak, with a great boulder at their feet, lie side by side, Micajah and Virginia Williams. On that great boulder is chiseled the name, "Micajah T. Williams." John White was one of the men who staked oft' his claim before daylight on the morning of May 1st, 1843, adjoining what was afterward the county seat, Oskaloosa. John White, John Montgomery, Felix Gesford, D. W. Canfield and others had stealthily spied out the ground and had agreed upon their respective claims. They were not afraid of each other infringing, but of unknown par- ties who might be hidden around like themselves. Those men staked out their claims peaceably. John White's claim lay immediately north of what was chosen as the REMINISCENCES. 129 ''town quarter." The U. S. government reserves the privileg-e of choosing- a quarter section of land anywhere on the public domain to locate a county seat upon. John Montg"omery heippened to select and stake out the very quarter the commissioners wanted afterward for the county seat. Mr. Montgomery had to give up his favor- ite piece of land and take claims elsewhere. Mr. M. was nicely fixed in the way of land, about which I will have more to say after a while. John White built a cabin on his claim, said cabin be- ing located about a mile directly north of the public square in Oskaloosa. There he brought his family — wife and two children —early in the Spring of 1844. Not long after, a little girl was born to them whom they named "Anestatia." I presume Anestatia was the first white child born anywhere around here. Anestatia died when she was six or seven years old. Mr. and Mrs. White had a son Edmond and a daughter Mary when they came to Mahaska County. John White was an energetic and shrewd business man. His prosperity soon began to be talked about through the country. I often heard the remark, "How well John White is getting along," or "If John White keeps on as he is going he will soon be the richest man in the ccmnty." Their prophecies and sur- mises turned out to be true, for John White, wdien he died, December 24th, 1870, was by far the wealthiest man in the county. The Whites didn't get rich by pinching and saving. They always, from the very first, had the best the country could afford. Mrs. White's neatness and cleanliness became a proverb throughout this region. The first time I ever was in her house I was overwhelmed 130 MAHASKA COUNTY with the supreme cleanliness of everything in that log cabin. I just stood and stared. I had seen many cozy, clean cabins, but had never seen anything that equaled that. The walls and joists and boards overhead were whitewashed as white as snow; the two beds were dress- ed m counterpanes as white as white could be, and the pillow cases were snowy white and looked like they were just from under the iron. 'Every piece of tinware shone like silver, and her brass kettle like burnished gold; the andirons in the wide fireplace were polished, the ashes taken up clean and the hearth swept to perfection; there were two or three strips of rag carpet on the floor, but a considerable space was bare, but those bare puncheons were scoured until they were in a state of cleanliness not often witnessed. Mrs. White's morning work was not entirely com- pleted when I arrived that morning, so she went on and finished her dishes; and just as she put the last plate in the cupboard, she brought out a pan full of broken sand- stone, remarking as she showed it to me: "John was down on the creek yesterday and he came across this fine, soft sandstone, and thinking it would be just the thing to scour with, he brought a lot of it home." She then pro- ceeded to pound up a lot of that sandstone until it as- sumed the consistency of fine sand. Then she gathered up every tin pan, bucket, coffee pot, and tin cup in the house, and went to work on them with that sand. She finished the tin things, and then the brass kettle was made to take on a polish not often seen outside of Mrs. White's kitchen. After all that she tackled the wooden bread bowl and gave it a thorough scouring. I sat and gazed REMINISCENCES. 131 with admiration and amazement. I thought everything in that cabin was as clean and shining as it could be be- fore she began. I said, "Mrs. White, I think you excel any woman I ever saw in making things shine." "Oh!" she said. "If you think I am a good housekeeper, you ought to have seen my mother's housekeeping. She kept her shovel and tongs and tea-kettle handle polished like silver all the time." Mrs. White didn't limit her beautifying of things to the inside of her cabin, but kept a nicely swept door-yard, trained morning glories and cypress vines about her windows, and out in front she cultivated a great billowy mass of pinks and bachelor buttons, and marigolds and four o'clocks, of every shade and color. Mrs. White could make of a cabin in the wilderness a veritable bower of beauty. The Whites were not like many others who came in the very early days, poor and barely able to exist, but w^ere quite well-to-do when they lived in Jefferson County. Mr. White once told me that he was worth four thousand dollars in money and other property when he came to Mahaska County. If he did outstrip his fellows in the race for wealth, he had a better start than almost any man I knew of the early settlers. As I said before, they didn't get rich by scrimping and denying themselves the ordinary comforts of life. Mr. White, from the begin- ning, provided bountifully for his family. If the neces- saries in the way of food were not to be obtained around here, he went off somewhere else and got them. They entertained hospitably and bountifully. Mrs. White was not only the best of housekeepers as regards carefulness and cleanliness, but was an exquisite cook. The day I 132 MAHASKx^ COUNTY went there and she amazed me so with her neatness and shiningness of everything, I stayed and took dinner with them. Her dinner was served with a taste and skill as unusual as were her other housekeeping- performances. The snowy, home made linen table cloth, with every crease made by the iron distinctly marked. The delicious g-reat big slices of fried ham, placed in the platter in a way to look the most tempting, with cream gravy poured over. A dish heaped up with mashed potatoes, with a hollow place on top wherein was a big lum]) of butter. Biscuit tender, white, and puffy, the making of which, I think, is a lost art. A great roll of golden butter — not a little thin slice but a big roll, so artistically printed it seemed a pity to cut into it. Old-fashioned Java coffee, the kind which has gone clear out of fashion. If we had the same kind of coffee to-day, I don't think my "French chef" could excel in making coffee such as Mrs. White served at that unpretentious dinner in her log cabin. I have visited Mrs. White in her elegant home, furnished wdth every luxury of modern times; have dined at her board, glittering with cut glass and burnished silver; but none of it impressed me like the exquisite taste and skill displayed in V)eautifying her cabin home, and the superb cooking she did by that old-fashioned fire-place. Many years ago Mr. White built an elegant home on the spot where their log cabin stood, and furnished it with everything beautiful from garret to cellar. As they went from room to room in that splendid home they went with sad hearts. A long row of little graves in the Old Cemetery tells the story. Their elegant home, broad acres, stocks, bonds, silver and gold w^ere no bar against REMINISCENCES. 133 that relentless reaper who claimed one after another of those lovely children, sparing- none but baby Jennie. I remember a conversation I once had with Mrs. White when Jennie was a baby in her arms, and she only had one other child left, Iowa, who was a young", l)rig]it, hap- py-looking- girl. Mrs. White had a settled sadness in her face as she talked of one child after another that had been taken. To divert her mind from her bereavement I commenced talking about her home and complimenting her on her beautiful surroundings. She looked around with a sig-h, and replied: "O, yes; I have everything I desire in house and furniture and husband, but my chil- dren have been taken one by one, until I only have these two left, and I am looking- for them to be taken from me as all the rest have been." Happy Iowa was snatched away in her youth, and the sorrowing parents saw an- other mound of earth added to the already numerous group. But Jennie, the baby, was spared. John White was a g-ood-looking man, a little less than six feet high, was active and quick in his move- ments; his hair was dark brown, his eyes blue-gray; he was a kind and obliging neighbor, was without affecta- tion and the patronizing airs some men assume when they have outstripped their fellows in the race for wealth. There is an addition to Oskaloosa, laid out by John White, and called ''White's Addition." Mr. White was always prosperous, and sound finan- cially. At the time of his death he was successfully car- rying on the banking business. About the time of Mr. White's death, two young men, brothers, Israel and Ernest Gibbs, came from New England to Oskaloosa and 134 MAHASKA COUNTY established themselves in the business of banking-. They were not only fine business men, but handsome and dis- tinguished-looking'. Israel married one of Oskaloosa's fairest daug^hters, Miss Lucy Dodg-e, who is not only fair, but lovely in character. When John White died, Jennie, his little daug-hter, was hardly beyond childhood. When she became a young lady, her manners were pleas- ing, her face was fair, and she married Mr. Ernest Gibbs, who is and always has been a successful business man. Mr. and Mrs. Gibbs have one daughter, Nellie, a bright and sparkling girl; she is handsome, like her grandmother once was. Mr. Ernest Gibbs has done much for the improvement of Oskaloosa; he has built many substantial business houses and numerous handsome dwellings. The poor of Oskaloosa and vicinity have rea- son to bless Ernest and Jennie Gibbs, for they have been fed and clothed and sheltered and warmed by these kind- hearted and benevolent citizens. REMINISCENCES. 135 CHAPTER XII. When I beg^an my story, my purpose was to relate my recollections of the early settlers, their heroism in battling- with the hardships and privations they were compelled to meet in converting" the wilderness into the grand and glorious land we see to-day. My idea was to give to the present generation a plain and true account of the way things appeared to me in that long ago time. But I find myself continuaUy wanting to tell about the children and grandchildren of those honest pioneers who have done and are still doing honor to themselves and to their worthy ancestors. This part of Iowa did not have for its first white set- tlers a lot of thieves and schemers. There may have been a few of that sort, but if there were I can't think of any just now. All that I knew, and I knew a good many, were honest and obliging, willing that their neigh- bors should enjoy all the rights they claimed for them- selves. They were generally God-fearing, Christian people, and had faith in God and in one another. The first settlers in the town of Oskaloosa, and the country 136 MAHASKA COUNTY immediately surrounding it, were the people I knew most about in the pioneer days. There were little groups of settlers here and there all over the county, I knew the reputation of almost all, and was personally acquainted with many of those who were among the first to make homes in the wilderness. There was Dr. Warren, who lived in the extreme western part of the county; he prac- ticed medicine, and was well spoken of as a physician, and was a grand, good man. He was a devout Metho- dist, and would go a long way to attend a religious meet- ing, especially Methodist. He was a licensed preacher, but did not take a regular circuit. In 1845, when there was not a meeting-house in Ma- haska County, the first court-house was built at the northwest corner of the public square in Oskaloosa, on what was called the "eye-tooth lot." Not long after it was finished, the Methodists held quarterly meeting therein. As is the custom among Methodists, they held what is called an experience, or speaking meeting. In that day it was their habit at those meetings to testify, or relate their religious experience, especially their con- version and the circumstances leading up to the same. There were Methodists here and there all over the coun- ty, or wherever there were a few families living near enough together to call each other neighbors. The Methodist folks from those remote settlements, as well as those near by, were at that meeting. Those people — strangers one to another -had come from difl:erent States and different localties; many of them had not had a priv- ilege like that for months. I saw many faces there I had never seen before; many were shabbily dressed, REMINISCENCES. io< women came with smibonnets on, and some with little babies in their arms; men in threadbare old-fashioned clothes. But honesty and earnestness of purpose were plain to be seen in their faces, though brown with expos- ure to sun and prairie winds. T can see them yet, though more than half a hundred years have come and gone since I sat with tears in my eyes and listened to the art- less stories, told with simple eloquence, of the time, place and circumstances which led to their giving their hearts to the Lord and finding peace to their souls. I remember one young woman in particular. I didn't know who she was then, and I don't know yet, but in my mind I see her as she stood up in that meeting with a calico sunbonnet on and a little baby in her arms, and with tears streaming down her face, told about giving her heart to God at a camp-meeting back in Indiana, and that He had kept her in peace, though far from her old home and from meeting, living with only her husband and baby in a cabin a long way from neighbors. She went on to say: "If it was not for my faith in God I don't know what I would do. Wolves howl around my house and rattle- snakes crawl in my yard. Often when my husband is away from morning till night, breaking prairie or making rails, I am compelled to leave my baby and go away off to a slough to get water. When I start I lift my heart to God and say, 'Lord, please to take care of my baby, ' and the Lord has always taken care of me and my baby. I have suffered no harm, though I have met many a rattle- snake on my way to the slough." When that woman had ceased speaking I saw tears in the eyes of many a rugged, sun-burned man. 138 MAHASKA COUNTY After many others had testified, Dr. Warren rose up and made a speech which I have not forgotten; neither have I forgotten the way he appeared to me that day. He was near six feet high, with dark brown hair, and gray eyes with a tenderness in their expression. There was a look about him of chivalrous manliness that women are not afraid to meet, though they were alone in a wil- derness. His voice and look were the kind that children instinctively take to; but what he said was this: "My Christian friends, brothers and sisters, I find myself a stranger in a company who seem to be strangers to each other; many of us never saw each other's faces until we came to this meeting. We seem to have come to this meeting with a common purpose — that of worship- ing the God and Father of us all, and of having our spir- itual strength renewed. We have come to this new coun- try from various States and various localities; the places of our nativity are widely separated from each other; there are scarcely two families from the same neighbor- hood. I have listened with much interest to the stories told by one and another, of your conversion, faith and Christian experience. As you talked, this thought came to me. No matter how diversified our homes and sur- roundings, whether among the tall poplars and clear, gravelly streams of Ohio and Indiana, the blue grass meadows of Kentucky, the wide prairies of Illinois, the hills and springs of Tennessee, or the New Purchase of Iowa, the religion of Jesus Christ is the same. Forsaking sin, resolving deep down in the heart to serve God, and trusting in the Lord Jesus Christ are followed by the same results, no matter where. I will go from this meet- REMINISCENCES. 139 ing with my heart full of thankfulness. May the Lord continue to bless and keep you all." Dr. Warren was an educated Christian gentleman; he went, after a long and useful life, to an honored grave. Some of his children and grandchildren are citizens of Mahaska County to-day, and are valuable members of society. Dr. Warren's son, Robert Warren, is now a cit- izen of Des Moines, but his boyhood, his young manhood, and his mature manhood days, clear on to the days when men arrive at the place where they begin to go down the hill of life, were spent in Mahaska County. Robert Warren has been a member of the State Legislature, and in many w^ays honored with the confidence of Mahaska's citizens. Robert Warren is a man amongst men; he is a fine-looking man, rather tall and well-proportioned, and like 'his father, at first sight one would feel that he was a man to be trusted. Not long after coming to Mahaska County I heard that the Rev. Allen Johnson was in this region, and about two weeks after I began teaching that first school, I was told that Bro. Johnson was going to preach in Os- kaloosa. I borrowed my uncle's black horse, Phillis, and came on a new road to Oskaloosa. Bro. Johnson preach- ed in an unfinished and unoccupied log house. There was no floor, but the walls were up, a clapboard roof on, and a door sawed out. From somewhere, I presume away down in Jefferson or Van Buren County, Mr. Can- field, the owner of said house, must have gotten the plank of which some seats were improvised, and a sort of raised platform at one end. I have learned since that the first court ever held in the county was held in that 140 MAHASKA COUNTY house, and that platform was the judge's bench. Rev. Johnson preached from that rostrum that day to an audi- ence of perhaps thirty persons. He told us he would preach two weeks from that day at the house of Dr. Weatherford, where he proposed to organize a Methodist society, or class. The house where Bro. Johnson preach- ed on that 29th of September, 1844, stood on Lot 5, Block 20, o. p., Oskaloosa. Dr. Weatherford's house was on Lot 7, Block 19, o. p., Oskaloosa. When that meeting was out and I had gone out of the house, I met my old acquaintance, Dr. Porter, who was very polite and pro- posed to assist me in mounting my horse, which was hitched up by Smith & Cameron's store. The doctor had much to tell me as we walked along toward Phillis, about Oskaloosa's prospects and possibilities. I remember with what pride he pointed to a pile of lumber on the east side of the public square, saying, "We are going to have a tavern. Mr. Charles Purvine is going to build right away, and won't that be a Godsend to we young fellows? And not only to us, but to the people we have been sponging on?" "I guess you have not been spong- ing very bad," I replied. "I don't know what else to call it," he said, "for here are Cage Williams, A. D. Jones, Esquire Edmundson and myself without a roof to cover our heads. If the people in these little cabins you see around here didn't shelter us and feed us and let us have a place to hang around in we would have to leave, or camp out on the prairie and go hungry. Of course, we try to compensate them, but we all feel like we are contracting a bigger debt of gratitude than we can ever pay." "That seems to ])e the natural order of things, " REMINISCENCES. 141 I replied, "my uncle and aunt take in everybody that come along", make beds on the floor, feed them and their teams, and I never hear them say anything' about debts of gratitude." "Well," said the doctor, '"if there are not a whole-souled lot of people around here, I don't know wdiere you would gx) to And them."" I climbed on a box, the doctor led Phillis up beside it, I took my seat in the saddle and joined my friend, Patterson Martin. He had found a much shorter road to Oskaloosa than the one the doctor's wife and I traveled on our first visit. I never think of those early times without remem- bering- the unfeigned friendship and kindness of Patter- son and Amanda Martin. Little Mary, who was a baby when I first knew them, is the wife of Mat Crozier, one of Mahaska's prosperous farmers, and has a house full of sons and daughters of her own. John N. Martin, the second child of Patterson and Amanda Martin, Captain Martin now, served his country throug-h the war of the rebellion, and is a respected citizen of Oskaloosa. Pat- terson Martin sleeps in Forest Cemetery. His devoted wife had a handsome monument erected to his memoiy, and his children plant flowers on his g"rave. His widow, Amanda, owns and occupies with her son Byron a valua- ble little farm and a comfortable and pretty cottag-e, not far from the place where they built their first cabin. Amanda Martin, one of the very few of we old set- tlers who are left to tell the story of the early days, is bent with ag^e and broken in health, but she, by great effort, comes to see me often. I am always glad to see her, and every time we meet we have a talk about the 142 MAHASKA COUNTY people and the things of long- ago. In all the fifty-five years that she has gone in and out among the people of this region, no one can truthfully say a word of harm of Amanda Martin. She was a self-sacrificing wife and mother, a kind and obliging neighbor, an humble Chris- tian. Her children have reason to be proud of the mother who has lived in one neighborhood more than half a cen- tury, and all that time had the confidence and respect of her neighbors. Amanda Martin came with her husband and baby to the New Purchase in 1843, lived in the crudest of crude cabins, and endured all the hardships of first settlers. At first their shanty was hardly a bar against the wolves that made night hideous with their howling. Deer were so plentiful they were often seen near their house; in those days deer were sometimes run down by dogs. One day Mr. Martin's dogs ran two deer close to their house; they were so near worried out that Mr. Martin killed them with an ax. That was late in the Autumn of 1844. I remember how excited he was when he came to my uncle's house, bringing a great big piece of venison and relating his adventures. We were surprised, for that was an unusual feat, even in that time of plenty, in the way of game. There was a family by the name of Coontz, living not far from my uncle's. Their children all went to my school. One day, not far from the time Mr. Martin had slaughtered the two deer, Mrs. Coontz came running with all her might, bare-headed and screaming: "Mr. Cox; a bear! Mr. Cox; a bear!" Uncle Aaron, as soon as he caught her meaning, REMINISCENCES. 143 snatched his ritle from its wooden hooks above the cabin door, slung" on his powder horn and proceeded to follow Mrs. Coontz. She managed to tell him on the way that she had heard a pig squealing- down by the cornfield fence, and on investigation found one of their shoats in the grasp of a bear. She called Mr. Coontz, who came with his gun and two dogs, at sight of which the bear ran up a tree. Uncle and Mrs. Coontz hurried to the scene, found Mr. Coontz with gun in hand, but afraid to shoot lest he should miss the bear and be attacked himself by that ferocious beast. Uncle Aaron was a sure shot. The dogs were making a big fuss, and the bear was away up on a limb of a dead tree, quietly watching things down below. Uncle took aim, fired, and brought the bear down, wounded. Both dogs jumped ' on the bear, which was not too badly wounded to make resistance. Mr. Coontz, to help the dogs out, seized a club to facilitate matters, but in his excitement struck one of his dogs the blow intended for the bear, which laid the dog out for a while. My uncle in the meantime had loaded his gun again, and the second shot put a quietus on the bear. Uncle was a modest man, never taking any glory to him- self, and when he was sure the bear was dead he walked off home, leaving the Coontzes in undisputed possession. But the next morning Mr. Coontz came over, bringing a great big roast out of that bear's shoulder. It wasn't a large bear, but was fat. In that day bear's oil was thought to be an excellent oil for the hair. My cousins, Eliza Ann and Elizabeth, and myself cut a lot of fat off of that roast and rendered it out. We girls put the oil in a bottle and held it in common. 144 MAHASKA COUNTY While I am talking" about game I want to tell about the prairie chickens. My uncle had some shock corn out in the Winter of '44 and '45, and thousands of prairie chickens would light in that field. My cousins, William and James, made traps and caug^ht hundreds of them. Prairie chicken is splendid meat, and nothing- can excel the gravy on corn-bread, but we realized that Winter that there was such a thing as having too much of a g^ood thing. How well I remember how pleased and triumph- ant those boys used to look as they came from their traps with both hands full of chickens. In the Autumn of '44, when I was teaching that first school, and.the Winter following, I went to Oskaloosa as often as I had opportunity and could find an excuse for g-oing". That g^ood uncle would let me ride Phillis when I didn't g-o in a wagon or sled with the Martins. My third trip was to the meeting- given out by Bro. Johnson as the time and place he expected to org-anize a class, or society of Methodists. I had learned the w^ay and was not afraid. That Sabbath morning, October loth, 1844, I mounted Phillis and went alone through woods and sloughs and glades and across Spring Creek. I had learned 'to watch out for blazed trees. For fear the young generaticm will not know what ""blazed" means in the way we used the word, I will explain. It was chop- ping 'out a big chip, or peeling bark oft' of trees along a dim road. When in 1894 the fiftieth anniversary of that first or- ganization of the Methodist Church had rolled around, the Methodist people of Oskaloosa proposed to and did hold a jubilee celebration lasting eight days. They gath- REMINISCENCES. 145 ered all the history relating to the church, both ancient and modern, which they could depend upon as being" cor- rect, and produced the same in one way or another at that meeting. Letters were received and reminiscences related. Rev. E. H. Waring, once pastor of the church in Oskaloosa, but now retired, was one of the prime movers in getting up that jubilee celebration. He came one day to see me and told me about it and requested me to write an account of the first organization of the Meth- odist Church in Oskaloosa, and read it on anniversary day. I knew I was the only person in all this country who was there and witnessed that crude and humble be- ginning. I remembered well the day, and almost all the people, and nearly every circumstance connected with it, I promised Mr. Waring to write as true an account as I could, and read it on the day designated. I give here just what I read on that fiftieth anniversary of the organ- ization of the Methodist Church in Oskaloosa. Reminiscences of the Early Days. [BY MRS. T. G. PHILLIPS.] Some of us who have arrived at the age of three score years can, by turning our thoughts back to child- hood and early youth, see with the mind's eye a plain, unpretentious home where dwelt our parents, brothers and sisters. W"e remember with what pure delight we slaked our thirst at the spring which bubbled out of the hillside, forming a little brook which wandered oft" through the meadow, its banks lined with mint and rushes. The orchard with big apple trees whose limbs were bending down with great red apples; the great, tall poplar trees 146 MAHASKA COUNTY looking" so grand and holding- their heads clear above the beech and sugar trees; the old meeting-house where we were wont to assemble on Sunday; the school-house where we w^ere taug^ht "the three R's," and besides "the three R's," a little of Eng-lish Grammar and Geog^raphy. About 1837 we began to hear a country talked of w^est of the Mississippi River called "Blackhawk's Pur- chase." A little later on we heard it called Iowa Terri- tor}'-. We heard wondrous stories of its broad prairies, rich soil and beautiful rivers. About that time there oc- curred a great financial crisis which led to the breaking of many home ties. Young men with small fortunes, be- sides health and pluck, bade farewell to parents and sweetheart; older men with families, whose earthly pos- sessions, great or small, had been partially or wholly swept away by the panic, by one means or another made their way to Iowa Territory. Some of us remember a time in the early forties, when our household goods were piled into big wagons, the neighbors coming to bid us good-bye, the four horses or long string of oxen hitched to the wagon, the tearful parting with relatives and neighbors, the last look at the old home, the crack of the driver's whip, when we began to journey tow^ard what seemed to us a far-off country. The journey to some of us was delightful. The warm, happy, Indian Summer days; the mellow^ nights, just cool enough to make camping out pleasant; the pop- lars and beech and sugar trees arrayed in all the gor- geous coloring which a typical October can give in Ohio and Indiana; the crossing of big prairies in Illinois; the sluggish Illinois River, where were thousands upon thou- REMINISCENCES. 147 sands of ducks, and finally the great "Father of Waters," are thmg"s which do not fade out of the minds of people of ordinary intelligence. The bluffs along the west bank of the great river were covered with oak, elm, hickory, and many other kind of trees and shrubs. To the west were great prairies, interspersed with groves and tra- versed by creeks and rivers whose banks were lined with various kinds of trees, festooned with vines whose grace of foliage cannot be described with pen or portrayed with artist's brush. The newcomer found everything here to make a prosperous, rich and beautiful country. Farms were opened, towns sprang up near the Mississippi, and before long the pioneer was found building his cabin and turning over the prairie sod as much as fifty miles west of the great river. In 1843 another purchase of lands was made by the United States government from the In- dians. This purchase embraced, among others, what is now Mahaska Count}^ While the Indians were still here, hunters and other adventurers had discovered a grand region lying between the Des Moines and Skunk Rivers. In journeying up through this region they beheld all about them a most charming prospect. Up the divide a vast native meadow, with tall grass waving and flowers blooming, groves to the right of them, groves to the left of them, a vista of green sward in front of them. Look- ing to the northwest could be seen what seemed to be the timbers bordering the Des Moines and the timbers bordering the Skunk, each reaching out an arm as if try- ing to clasp hands across the billowy mass of green. It was found that the Des Moines and Skunk Rivers drew nearer each other at this place than in all their meandering 148 MAHASKA COUNTY course toward the g"reat Father of Waters. Those early- discoverers thoug-ht "Narrows'' an appropriate name, so they called this place "The Narrows." On the 1st day of May, 1843, white peo])le were given the privilege of coming into this charming place and se- lecting claims Vvdiereon to make homes for themselves. There was not quite such a rush to get in here as there was to enter the Cherokee Strip, but there was something of a rush. Men staked out their claims by torchlight, and when daylight came on the first day of May all the land around and about The Narrows was claimed by some- body. Many families came and settled about through the country in '43. Some lived in tents, some in rudely- constructed log cabins, and some even lived for a time in the bark huts left by the Indians. The people who first located on the "Six Mile" prairie thought, and with rea- son, that they had found the very garden spot of the country. There were several Methodist families among the first who settled on the Six Mile prairie, and it is said that the very first sermon ever preached in Mahaska County w^as by a young Methodist preacher named Lewis, in somebody's cabin on the Six Mile prairie. Those early settlers soon began to speculate and maneuver about the location of the county seat. The geographical center of what is now Mahaska County is about two miles north of the place then called The Nar- rows. The Six Mile prairie people w^anted the county seat, the Center people wanted it, and the Narrows peo- ple wanted it. The Narrows could boast of having one residence and one other small cabin, with a sign on top on which was painted in large letters the word, "Grocery," REMINISCENCES. 149 The residence was occupied by Perry Crossmaii and wife, Mrs. Jones, who w^as Mr. Grossman's mother-in-law (a lady possessing much nativ^e wit and shrewdness), and her two sons, George W. and John W. Jones. Mrs. Jones also had a handsome young daughter, Sarah, who is now Mrs. McWilliams, and a citizen of Oskaloosa. The Com-- mercial House, with the sign of grocery on top, was not a wholesale establishment, but did a retail business, not only in groceries, but in what is called "general mer- chandise." Mr. Grossman and the Jones brothers were sole owners and proprietors, and enjoyed without compe- tition the entire trade of The Narrows. When the com- missioners who were appointed to locate the county seat came in the Spring of '44 they found hospitable enter- tainment at the Grossman- Jones residence. There they made their headquarters while examining the ditl'erent points claiming to be the best locations. That was an early Spring, and by the first of May the groves and prairies looked lovely. The commission- ers looked at Six Mile; they looked at the Genter, and were rather favorably impressed with that place, not only on account of its being the geographical center of the county, but on account of the many beautiful groves. Among those groves were a number of slight depressions which we called "sloughs.''' At that time they were all clothed in green and looking their best. After examining all points they assembled at the Grossman-Jones resi- dence to talk it over and make their decision. Mrs. Jones was present during their deliberations and eagerly listening to their remarks, heard one gentleman say: "The Genter is a desirable location on account of those 150 MAHASKA COUNTY groves being" clustered in there so nicely. Why, the Center has seven groves." Mrs. Jones, on hearing this remark, took the liberty of making the following speech: "Gentlemen, you say the Center has seven groves; well, sure enough it has seven groves; but did you notice that mixed up with those seven groves are ten sloughs'?" One of the commissioners remarked: "Mrs. Jones is about right. " The others thought so, too, and that is the way the county seat came to be located at The Nar- rows. This was on Saturday, the 11th day of May, 1844. The new county seat was named "Oskaloosa." A quarter section of land was selected, surveyed and laid off into town lots; these lots were offered for sale to the highest bidder. Several were sold, but bids were so low the sale was stopped for a while. Very soon some log houses were commenced. The first court was held in an unfinished log house. On September 14th, 1844, there were just fifteen little log cabins in Oskaloosa. The first sermon preached by a Methodist in Oskaloosa was on Sunday, September 29th, 1844. Allen Johnson was the preacher. He announced at that meeting that he would on October 13th, hold a meeting at the home of Dr. Weatherford, at which meeting he proposed to organize a class, or society. He requested all who held letters of membership in the M. E. Church to take them with them. By that time several Methodist families had located in Oskaloosa. Dr. Weatherford's house was a log cabin of one room about 15 by 18 feet in size, and was located on Lot 7, Block 19, in the town of Oskaloosa. The weather generally was lovely that fall, but that particular Sunday was cloudy. There was a chilliness in the air which REMINISCENCES. 151 made one think all the time that it was going to snow; but it didn't snow. Dr. Weatherford and his wife made their one room as comfortable as they could for the meet- ing; some fifteen or twenty persons had gathered thei'e by eleven o'clock. The doctor was only a brother-in-law to the church, but he had skirmished around among the neighbors and borrowed chairs enough to almost seat the entire congregation: as many as could, sat on the bed. In the wide fireplace a heap of logs were blazing which sent a glow of warmth over the faces of that little group. The coffee pot and sauce -pans hung on the wall; the water-bucket with gourd dipper sat on a box; some blue- edged plates ornamented a shelf on the wall. That state of things seems amusing to people of to-day, but that earnest group of worshipers never thought of being amused. Brother Johnson came in, warmed his hands, took off his overcoat, seated himself by the little table where a Bible and hymn-book had been placed, sat in silence a few moments, then proceeded to open the meet- ing by reading a hymn. He informed the congregation that the hymn would be sung in common meter, and would some brother please lead in singing? We will sing without lining. "O, for a thousand tongues to sing My great Redeemer's praise.'' Brother William G. Lee led the singing. There were good singers in Oskaloosa, even then. The whole con- gregation knelt while Bro. Johnson prayed; he preached, then invited all who wished to join by letter or by giving him their hand to come forward. Some twelve or four- teen persons then formed the little band which consti- 152 MAHASKA COUNTY tuted the beginning of the Methodist Church in Oska- loosa. Among those who that day gave their letter or their hands to Bro. Johnson, were Dr. William G. Lee and wife, Samuel Gossage and wife, George Jennison and wife, Mrs. Mary Weatherford, Mrs. Hannah Phillips, and the writer of this, who was then Semira A. Hobbs. The others I cannot recall. After that little organiza- tion, meetings were held regularly in one little cabin and another until the court house was built, which was the next year, 1845. In these days of fine churches, with cushioned pews or opera chairs, carpets, pipe organs and electric lights, young people smile at the idea of holding meetings in lit- tle log cabins lighted with a tallow candle or a grease lamp made in a piepan; but we who lived here fifty years ago and helped to lay the foundation of Iowa's present greatness, saw^ nothing ludicrous in those crude and hum- ble beginnings. Heavenly meetings were held in those little cabins. For a Methodist preacher, in those days, training in a Theological school was not thought to be necessary, but to be soundly converted, feel a call to preach, and have a tolerable education were the main re- quirements. Some of that class foiind their way into the wilds of the New Purcliase fifty years ago, and with an eloquence born of faith and an earnest desire to serve God and save souls, stirred and melted the hearts of their hearers. Souls were converted and shouts of joy were heard. Prayers and old-fashioned Methodist songs and love feast meetings, where the brethren and sisters would meet and relate their Christian experiences, made those little log cabins seem "Heavenly places." REMINISCENCES. 153 All the good people who first came and helped to make this country great and prosperous were not Meth- odists, though a considerable portion of them were Meth- odists of the old stamp. The first church erected in Os- kaloosa was by the Cumberland Presbyterians. In the very early days they were more numerous than any other denomination. They built their church in 1846, and at that time had a large membership, but in 1849 so many of them went to California their church here was almost broken up. Other branches of the Presbyterian Church were represented by good and substantial families, whose children and grandchildren are among Mahaska's best citizens to-day. There were a few Baptists here, and in the Spring of 1845 there was a society organized in Smith & Cameron's new" frame store building, on Lot 1, Block 28, o. p., Oskaloosa. Mr. Post weis the minister. The red man's bark huts were still standing in Kish- kekosh, and his footprints scarcely washed out by the rain, when a little colony of Quakers appeared on the scene and located on one of the most beautiful and fer- tile spots to be found in Mahaska County. Quakers are and always have been Orthodox in principle, devout in their allegiance to Christ. Quakers were first to discover that women had brains; the first to emancipate women from church slavery and place them side by side with men in the ministry and all affairs of church. Among their fundamental principles are freedom and justice. Quakers make good citizens. They establish and carry on good schools, and add to the prosperity of any com- munity wherein they establish themselves in any consid- erable numbers. They never permitted their members 154 MAHASKA COUNTY to buy and sell men and women. No denomination has done more to enhance business, prosperity, education and moral culture in Mahaska County than the Quakers. Much is said in these days about the sacrifices made by the families of early settlers. They did break sod, make rails, cook, eat and sleep all in one room; they sometimes went many miles in order to procure corn meal to make bread, which things were somewhat incon- venient, but there was very little sacrifice about it. If we who were the actors on that early stage were making" sacrifices, we were not conscious of it. Not many of us had been accustomed to luxuries before we came. Those who had been accustomed to better things before they came, seemed to accept the situation cheerfully. I don't remember of hearing any talk of "sacrifice" in the early days. We had many things which in these days are called luxuries; we had wild turkey and quail, and venison and prairie chicken; we had blackberries and wild gooseber- ries and strawberries, and an endless variety of plums. There was very little suffering for want of food. The more I think about the pioneer men and women the more I admire their character. I can hardly recall a man or woman among them who was not honest, honor- able, brave, hospitable, high-souled. The most of them have joined the great majority, but if we look about us we will see some of Mahaska's best citizens among their descendants. Saturday, October 13, 1894. REMINISCENCES. 155 CHAPTER XIII. The next time I went to Oskaloosa was some time toward the last of November. There was g"oing- to be meeting- in Purvine's tavern, held by the Cumberland Presbyterians. The Martins being members of that church, and as was their custom, informed me of the meeting- and proposed going; but when the Sunday morn- ing came, Patterson came by my uncle's and informed us that something had happened which prevented Amanda from going, but he had decided to walk, and knew a near- er cut to town than any we had gone before. Phillis was at my disposal, as usual, so I mounted Phillis, and Pat- terson walked ahead, along that newly-blazed path I fol- lowed. We crossed Spring Creek near the place where the bridge on the road to Carbonado is now. We came through timber the most of the way. On reaching the open prairie the most charming view opened out to my vision that I had seen in Mahaska County, and I had seen a good many. Just after leaving the main timber our road led between two small groves. The leaves had fall- en — every tree stood out clear of any undergrowth of 156 MAHASKA COUNTY hazel or other bushes. There was none of that kind of small growth around there, and I thought of what my Aunt Delilah had said about that particular feature of the New Purchase, when we first came to Iowa. Just after passing those groves we were out on the broad open prairie. One of those groves was long known as "Picnic Grove." The one just west of it has been known to Os- kaloosa people by different names: "The Phillips Grove," "The Hawkins Grove," and so forth, and now an ugly coal shaft disfigures the spot once so beautiful. A little way to the southwest the little village of Oskaloosa loomed up, not as I had seen it a few weeks before, but instead of only a few log cabins there seemed to be dozens of frame houses, all painted white. Off to the north was that most beautiful of all places around Oskaloosa, when in its native state. Gently sloping to the east, a back- ground to the north of fine timber, at the foot of the slope to the west ran a babbling little brook, whose banks were lined with willows and other trees which delight the eye. That spot which looked so charming to me on that No- vember Indian Summer day, afterwards was the first home of myself and the husband of my youth. I had no idea who the owner was when I ft'rst saw it, but the place had a fascination, and I just gazed and thought "How beautiful!" No wonder I had some cloudy foresight into the future, for there my young husband and I went to housekeeping; there my two sons were born; there sleep my precious dead, and there I expect to sleep my last, long sleep. Although nearly fifty-five years have come and gone, I remember all that scene of charming land- scape, and my thoughts as it broke upon my vision, as REMINISCENCES. ] 57 clearly as if it was j^esterday. The way Mr. Martin looked as he walked along ahead. Mr. Martin was a small man, but he vralked with a quick, elastic step. Very little liad been said as we wended our way alon<^ that l)lazed path, as he was g"enerally a rod or two ahead, but when that scene and the town loomed up in plain sight, he turned around and remarked, with a look of pride in his face: "Oskaloosa is beginning to look like a town, ain't it?" When we came into the town we saw that a number of houses had been built around the public square. On the north side of the square was what seemed a very long store building with a store already in it; how fine it looked. That store was owned by A. J. Davis, the man over whose millions there has been so mmch litigation in Montana. George Jennison and a boy named Frank Reeves had charge of the store. Another frame building which was painted white had just been built on the w^est side of the square was ov^aied and occupied as a store of general merchandise by Wm. B. Street. Of course I didn't see those people and their stocks of goods that Sunday, but afterwards. Mr. Charles Purvine had his tavern up on the east side of the square and there w^as where the meeting was held. The house was only weatherboarded and covered; there was no floor, and only studding where the parti- tions were going to be. The workmen's benches were in and shavings about on the gTound. That was an old- fashioned frame with hewed sills and posts, and the joists or sleepers were not in for the floor. The ground was bare all inside of the house; seats were improvised of 158 MAHASKA COUNTY blocks with planks laid on them. A row of young" men sat on a carpenter's work-bench, with shaving-s thick around their feet. John W. Jones was among" those who sat on the work-bench. The house was full of people and they had come from far and near. A number were there from Six Mile, as a funeral sermon in memory of a Mr. Wilson, who had died several months before on Six Mile, was to be preached by Rev. Baxter Bonham. It seems to have been thought by some ministers in that day, that to cause violent weeping and wailing among the audience, especially the friends of the dead, was the proper thing to do in preaching a funeral sermon. Mr. Bonham seems to have been of the class who enter- tained this idea. He came to that meeting prepared to operate on the tender sympathies of his audience. His supply of touching incidents was great; his emotional eloquence not only set his audience to weeping, but set him to weeping himself, and he fell into such a fit of weeping that he was compelled to stop talking and just stand there and weep. The situation became embarrass- ing, so much so that after a few moments he apologized to the audience, informing them that his love for the de- ceased was so great and his grief so intense that he could not restrain his tears. By the time winter had fairly set in, Mr. Purvine had his tavern in running order, and was prepared to enter- tain the traveling public and all those doctors and law- yers who were homeless. That tavern was a story and a half with four good-sized rooms on the first floor and one big room up stairs with six beds in it. Mr. Purvine's was the first tavern built in Oskaloosa, though Mr. Can- REMINISCENCES. 159 field did keep what was called a tavern a little while. The Canflelds kept the judg"e and lawyers who held court the Summer before. Many funny incidents used to be related of the Canfields' tribulations in trying" to provide for that functon. Mr. Pur vine kept that tavern only a few months, wdien in the Summer of 1845 he sold out to Jerry Brown and Thomas J. Willis. ^ Mr. Willis was not married, but held a valuable claim some three or four miles east of town, which he traded to Mr. Purvine in that tavern deed. W^hen I first came to Mahaska County Mr. Willis and Mr. Wm. B. Campbell were keeping bach- elors' hall jointly, both improving claims. If they were not adjoining, they were very near tog^ether. Mr. Camp- bell is one of the few who live where they first settled. He married Miss Sarah Lucetta Dunl)ar in 1847. They have always been respected and useful members of soci- ety. Their son, Walter Campbell, is an honorable and prosperous business man and a respected citizen of Oska- loosa. Walter Campbell's wife, who was Miss Mollie Moreland, is one of Oskaloosa's brig"htest women. Mrs. Jerry Brown, wife of Mr. Willis' partner, died soon after moving into the tavern. Mr. Willis went to the Galena lead mines, w^here his health failed and he died in 1846. The Purvine tavern was on the g^round where the Downing House now stands, Lot 5, Block 19, o. p. That hostelry changed owners frequently in the first few years of its existence. In 1852 Mr. J. M. White pur- chased it and for a while it was kept by Mr. Hug^h Mc- Neely, w^ho, in partnership with John R. Needham, in 1850 printed the first newspaper ever printed in Oska- lo(?sa. That was the beginning of Tlie Oskaloosa Herald. 160 MAHASKA COUNTY I read the first issue of that paper and have read nearly every one since. That first issue of Tli? Herald was a small affair, but fully up to other things in that early day. I remember well how eagerly I seized that little sheet and never stopper! until I had read every advertisement and everything else on it. I was so proud to know that Oskaloosa could afford a newspaper. In these days when newspapers are lying about in heaps and piles in almost every house, my thoughts go back to a time when we hardly ever saw a newspaper; when by any chance one would fall into my hands I would read it over and over again. Though some of the articles therein were too deep for my comprehension I would read them any way. In the Autumn of 1844, when I was teaching that first school, Tom Springer sent me a periodical called The lUuininafed Magazine^ and published in London. Mr. Springer was the eldest son of Matthew Springer, one of the men who located a claim at Mahaska Center in 1843, thinking the county seat would be located there. The Springers were people of more than ordinary intelli- gence, not satisfied with the commonplace, and possessed of force of character.- Matthew Springer was an enter- taining talker, an unselfish, kind-hearted man. His chil- dren were bright, intelligent and respectable. T