i m JSHi« ^m!^< mi. m m xl i\*^ d *^E?~2j ■ ^^**B*^^&B±^pg&*^' 3ff¥5? ^ Class _ZlZLl2j> Book ffh s cT G«pyrightN?._ ;/•■ i inches. From H to M is % of an inch. Connect M and L for the bottom of sleeve. Square across from X to N. From N to is 24 of an inch. Connect and G and and L by straight lines. From X to P is y± of an inch. Connect C, P and M by a curved line. From M to S is 2J4 inches. From P to R is 2 inches. From C to Q is 1% inches. Connect Q, R and S by a curved line. T is half way from B to F. Connect T and by a straight line. Round the elbow at and curve a line from Q to T, as represented. Place a piece of paper under the draft. Trace out the undersleeve on the lines T through to L. Q through R to S and L, also on curved line from Q to T. Cut out top sleeve on heavy lines. Allow for all seams when cutting material. 17 Diagram 7 18 Instructions for Drafting Semi -Fitting Four -Piece Coat Diagram 8 Length of Back 15 inches Under arm 8J4 " Bust 36 Waist 24 Hip 40 Height of dart 13^ " Neck 12% " Length of front 15 ]4, " Place the right angle of the square at 1 and draw a line each way. Measure down from 1 to 2, the back length, 15 inches for this draft. From 2 up to A is the underarm measure SJ.f inches. Place the short arm of the square at A and draw a line forward to 5, half of the bust measure, 18 inches. Divide the distance from 5 to A in two equal parts to locate 3. B is half way from 3 to A. C is half way from B to 3. The distance from C to 3 is placed from 3 to D. Square up a line from D to E. F is the middle between E and D. Divide the neck measure in three equal parts. Place half of one part 2}i inches from 1 to establish G. Square up to H % of an inch. Make a dot 1 inch below F and connect with H by a straight line. Connect 1 and H by a curved line. Square up a line from C to I. J is J.f of an inch from I. For stout women the shoulder is usually shorter. Add from 5 to K one inch. Place L half way between K and D. Square up a line from L to M, the same distance as A is to 1. M to N is always 1 J. 4 inches for normal forms. For a high chest M to N is 2 inches, and for a hollow chest M to N is only % of an inch. (Observe the figure you are measuring.) 18 is half way between A and 1. 19 is half way between 18 and A. Connect 19 and N by a straight line. N to is Y± of an inch less than H is to J. Curve the armhole from through F, D and 3. Within ?4 of an inch of the straight lines and up to J as represented. Square down from 3 to 4, the underarm measure, plus % of an inch, 8 1 A inches for this draft. Connect 4 and 2 and make a circle in the center between 4 and 2. Take Y% of the waist measure (which is 6 inches in this case), and divide this amount in two equal parts. Place each part each way from the circle to establish S and R. The surplus from R to 4 is divided in half, establishing X. Draw a line up from X to 3. Half of the remaining surplus X to R is placed from the circle to T. Divide the shoulder from H to J in half and draw a slightly curved line down to T. Draw up from the circle to a little above B. Connect S and 1. Square forward from N to P, the same distance as 1 is to H. Draw a long line down from P through K. From P to 9 is }/i inch more than N to P. Curve from N to 9. From 9 to 6 is the front measure, 15J f inches. Connect 6 and 4 by a straight line. Curve from 4 to within 2 inches of the straight line to l /> inch below 6. U is y> inch from the straight line. From U to V is the same distance as from S to T. The distance from U to V, plus the distance from 4 to 10 is Yi of the waist measure, 6 inches in this case. From 10 to W is iy 2 inches for the semi-fitting front. The distance from 1 to H plus the distance from N to 8 is the height of dart, 13} 4 inches. Draw a line from A through 8 to 49. From 8 to Y is y> inch . Draw a line from Y to V and Y to W. Connect 49 and U. Extend the straight line from 2 to 20, 6 inches and from 4 to 21 the same, for the hip line. Draw a line from 20 through 21. From 20 to Z is the same distance as 2 to S. From Z to 22 is } £ inch more than S is to T. Draw a line from S to Z and from T to 22. From Z to 23 is J4 of the hip measure, 10 inches. 24 is half way between 21 and 23. The distance from 22 to 25 is the same as 21 to 24. Draw a line up from 24 to X and from 25 to the circle. Place the long arm of the square at 3 and R and draw a dotted line past 26. Draw a slightly curved line from 3 through 4 to 26 as represented. 27 is 6 inches below U and } A inch from the straight line. Draw a curved line from 26 to 27 parallel with the line from 4 to U. The distance from 27 to 28 is \i of an inch more than the distance from U to V. Connect V and 28. The distance from 27 to 28 plus the distance from 26 to 29 is ]4 of the hip measure, 10 inches. For a flat abdomen subtract V> inch from 29 to 30. Connect 30 and W. This draft is 9 inches below the waist line. To make any length desired, proceed as follows: Extend the lines S-Z and T-22, the distance on the bottom line from 31 to 32 is the same as from Z to 25. Connect 32 with 25. The distance from 33 to 34 is the same as 22 to 24. Connect 34 with 24 33 32 5/ Diagram 8 The lines of the front are extended to correspond with the back lengths. For a double breasted front add 3 L 2 inches from the line 9-K-49-U and 27. 12 is % of an inch from N. Determine the length of roll desired (this is always a matter of taste and style). This establishes 11. Connect 11 with 12 by a straight line. From 13 to 14 is the same distance as N to P. From 14 to 15 is the same distance as 14 to 13. Connect 11 and 15 by a slight curve line and 14 and 15 by a straight line. To cut the pattern apart the underarm piece must be traced on a separate paper to prevent cutting overlap at the hip. Place a piece of drafting paper under the draft. Trace on the heavy lines from 3 through X, past 24 to 34. From the middle shoulder through P>, past the circle to 25 and 32, across the bottom to 34, the waist line, shoulder and armhole. Cut out on tracings (from the under paper), and cut the remaining pieces on the heavy lines. The pattern is net and seams must be allowed. 20 Instructions for Drafting Collars Notch Collar Diagram 9 First measure the neck of the pattern from the crease line 13 to N, and the neck of the back from H to 1. We find this amount is 6 inches in this case. Place another piece of paper underneath the neck of pattern and extend the crease line from 13 through 12 to 16, the amount just measured. From 16 to 17 is 1 inch. From 16 to 18 is 1% inches. From 14 to 19 is always 34 to Yi of an inch less than the lapel from 14 to 15. Now draw along the edge of the pattern from 14 through 13 to within 34 of an inch of N to 17. Connect 17 with 18 and 18 with 19. Finish as represented curving in Y% °f an inch inside the straight line 18 and 19. Remove the pattern and cut the collar out on the heavy lines. Shawl Collar Diagram 10 Proceed in the same manner and draft all points as explained on Diagram 9. Make a dot 1 inch below 15 and connect with 14. Curve from 11 through 19 to 18, according to shape desired. 21 Diagram 9 Diagram 10 22 Instructions for Combination Draft Consisting of Tight - Fitting Princess with Two Darts and Tight -Fitting Coat with One Dart Diagram 11 Length of back 15 inches Underarm 8K " Bust 36 Waist 24 Hip 40 Height of dart lZy 2 " Neck 12M " Length of front 15J4 " Begin by making the foundation draft as explained on Diagram 6, page 14. This gives all the points which are correspondingly lettered and numbered on this diagram to the waist line. Proceed as follows on diagram 11: Extend the line from 2 to 20 six inches and from 4 to 21 the same. Draw a line from 20 through 21. The distance from 2 to S is placed from 20 to Z. Draw a long line down from S through Z to 25, length desired. From Z to 22 is y 2 of an inch more than S to T. Draw a line from T through 22 to 24 and connect 24 with 25. Place the square at C and W and continue the line from W to 27. From Z to 23 is 34 of the hip measure, 10 inches. Divide the distance from 23 to 21 in two equal parts, place one part from 27 to 28 and the other part from 27 to 29. Connect 29 with U and 28 with W. Measure the distance from 22 to 23 and divide in two equal parts. Place one part from 28 to establish 30 and the other part from 29 to establish 26. Draw a line from 26 to V and from 30 to X. To extend the lines below the hip proceed as follows: The distance from Z to 26 is placed from 25 to 31. Connect 31 with 26. The distance from 22 to 29 is placed from 24 to 32. Connect 32 with 29. The distance from Z to 30 is placed from 25 to establish 34. Connect 34 with 30. Measure the distance from 32 to 31 and place this amount from 34 to establish 33. Connect 33 with 28. Draw a dotted straight line from 3 through R to 24. Draw a slightly curved line from .3 through 4 to within l / 2 of an inch of the dotted line at 48 and near the dotted line to 24, as represented. 38 is 6 inches below 12 and Y 2 of an inch from the straight line. Draw a curved line from 48 to 38, parallel with the line from 4 to 12. From 38 to 39 is y 2 of an inch more than 12 to 13. From 39 to 41 is \< 2 of an inch more than 13 to 15. From 41 to 44 is Y> of an inch more than 15 to 16. The distance l A from 38 to 39 including the distance from 44 to 41, plus the distance from 48 to 47 is of the hip measure, less ^ of an inch. Connect 47 with 17, 44 with 16, 41 with 15, 39 with 13 and 38 with 12 by straight lines, and continue down to correspond with back lengths. To Make the One Dart Divide the distance from 41 to 44 in two equal parts. Place one part from 39 to 45 and the other part from 47 to 46. Divide the distance from 15 to 16 in two equal parts. Place one part from 13 to 37 and the other part from 17 to 36. Divide the distance from Y to 40 in half and curve down to 37 and to 36. Draw the lines from 36 through 46 and from 37 through 45 as represented. For a single breasted coat 2 inches is allowed for the overlap. The length of roll is regulated according to style. To cut the pattern apart, the back pieces must be traced on separate paper to prevent cutting overlap at the hip. Place a piece of drafting paper under the draft, and trace each piece separately on the heavy lines. Allow for all seams when cutting material. 23 Diagram 11 24 Instructions for Drafting Six- Gore Skirt Panel Front and Back Diagram 12 Waist 24 inches Hip 40 Front length 39 Side length 41 Back length 40% " Place the straight edge of the drafting paper even with the edge of a large table. Let the paper extend above number 6 about 8 inches. From number 6 to 7 is always 6 inches for average height women. Even with the edge of the table, measure up from 6 to A, the amount of the waist and a fourth, 30 inches for this draft. Pin the end of the tape at A. Pivot from A and cast a sweep from 6 to 2, and from 7toB. Measure on the line from 7 to B one-half of the hip measure, 20 inches for this draft. Measure down from 6 to 15 the front length, 39 inches. From 4 to 16, the side length, 41 inches, and from 2 to 17, the back length, 40% inches. Connect 15, 16 and 17 by a curved line as represented. The number of gores are always divided into the full hip measure. In this diagram we have a 6 gore panel front and back. The hip measure is 40 inches. 6 divided into 40 gives 6 2 3 inches to the gore. Divide this amount in two equal parts, place one part V/& inches from B to C, and the other part from 7 to E. From C to D is twice the amount as BtoC. D to E is the same as C to D. Space the gores at bottom. From 15 to F is double the amount as 7 to E. From F to 16 is double the amount as E to D. From 16 to G is double the amount as D to C. G to 17 is double the amount as C to B. Draw a line from 17 through B to 2. From G through C to H. From 16 through D to 4 and from F through E to I. Measure the distance from 6 to 2, which is 16} £ inches for this draft. Subtract half of the waist measure from this amount. The difference thus obtained is £% inches, surplus to eliminate between the gores as follows: Place y± of an inch each way from H and curve down to C. Place 1 inch from 4 to J and curve down to D. IJ2 inches from 4 to K, and curve to a little below D. V2 of an inch from I to L and curve to E, thus eliminating all the surplus. Curve from I to % of an inch above line at K, and Yi inch above line at J to H, as represented. Adjust the length by deducting from bottom of draft the amount desired. Number the gores and cut apart on the heavy lines. The front and back piece are to be cut on fold of material. Pattern is net. Allow for all seams everywhere. 25 A -J/5 Diagram 12 26 Instructions for Drafting Seven - Gore Skirt with Inverted Pleat Diagram 13 Waist 24 inches Hip 42 Front length 39 Side length 41 Back length 40% " Place the straight edge of the drafting paper even with the edge of a large table. Let the paper extend above number 6 about 8 inches. From number 6 to 7 is always 6 inches for average height women. Even with the edge of the table, measure up from 6 to A, the amount of the waist and a fourth, 30 inches for this draft. Pin the end of the tape at A. Pivot from A and cast a sweep from 6 through 2 and from 7 through B. Measure on the line from 7 to B, one-half of the hip measure, 21 inches for this draft. Measure down from 6 to 15 the front length, 39 inches. From 4 to 16 the side length, 41 inches. And from 2 to 17, the back length, 40% inches. Connect 15, 16 and 17 by a curved line, as represented. The number of gores are always divided into the full hip. In this draft we have seven gores. The hip measure is 42 inches, seven divided into 42 gives 6 inches to the gore. Then from B to C is 6 inches. From C to D is 6 inches and D to E is 6 inches. From E to 7 is 3 inches, always half the amount of the preceding gores. This being the front, when cut on fold of material, gives each gore the same width. Space the Gores at Bottom From 15 to F is double the amount as 7 to E. From F to G is double the amount as E to D. From G to H is double the amount as D to C. From H to 17 is double the amount as C to B. Draw a line from 17 through B to 2. From H through C to I. From G through D to J. From F through E to K. Measure the distance from 6 to 2, which is 1734 inches for this draft. Subtract half of the waist measure from this amount. The difference thus obtained is 534 inches, surplus to eliminate between the gores as follows: Place 1 inch each way from I. 1 inch each way from J and J^ inch each way from K. Curve to the hip line as represented. The remaining 34 of an inch can be disposed of in the hip dart at J. For the inverted pleat add from 17 to L 8 inches and from B to M 4 inches. Draw a line up from L through M to N. Trace on line 2, B, 17 and fold over to line N, L. Num- ber the gores and cut apart on heavy lines, through C to H, through D to G, through E toF. Pattern is net. Allow for seams everywhere when cutting material. 27 A Diagram 13 28 Instructions for Drafting Nine - Gore Skirt for Prominent Abdomen Diagram 14 Waist 28 inches Hip 45 Front length 39 Side length 41 Back length 40M " Place the straight edge of the drafting paper even with the edge of a large table. Let the paper extend above number 6 about 8 inches. From number 6 to 7 is always 6 inches for average height women. Even with the edge of the table, measure up from 6 to A, the amount of the waist and a fourth, 35 inches for this draft. Pin the end of the tape at A. Pivot from A and cast a sweep from 6 through 2 and from 7 through B. Measure on the line from 7 to B one-half of the hip measure, 22)4. inches for this draft. Measure down from 6 to 15, the front length, 39 inches. From R to I, the side length, 41 inches, and from 2 to 17, the back length, 40^4 inches. Connect 15, I and 17 by a curved line as represented. The number of gores are always divided into the full hip. In this diagram we have nine gores. The hip measure is 45 inches. 9 divided into 45 gives 5 inches to the gore. Then from B to C is 5 inches. From C to D is 5 inches. From D to E is 5 inches and E to F is 5 inches. From F to 7 is 2y 2 inches, always half the amount of the preceding gores. This being the front, when cut on fold of material gives each gore the same width. Space the gores at bottom. From 15 to G is double the amount as 7 to F. From G to H is double the amount from F to E. From H to I is double the amount from E to D. From I to J is double the amount as D to C. From J to 17 is double the amount as C to B. Draw a line from 17 through B to 2. From J through C to K. From I through D to R. From H through E to S. From G through F to T. Measure the distance from 6 to 2, 19 inches for this draft. Subtract half of the waist measure from this amount. The difference thus obtained is 5 inches, surplus to eliminate between the gores as follows: Place y 8 of an inch each way from K, y 8 of an inch each way from R, y of an inch each way from S and 5 8 of an inch each way from T, and curve to the hip line as represented. For a high abdomen and flat back curve from 1 inch above 6 to y of an inch below 2. Finish inverted pleat and cut gores apart as explained on diagram 13, page 26. 29 A Diagram 14 MJG % 1« 1 * :-»ii MB ^o« «^ !KjO sj 2jaa *?££HVa TSS& •5 * : ^S^ ^°>e)~ isJ^ D ■ lolbo' One copy del. to Cat. Div. AUG 5 »H » ^f6o€ & " '! ;: '': llllllllllllllllll LIBRARY OF CONGRESS lllllllllllll 013 973 135 9