■*'T '<'?>•'»? ^ „ «, ^iiib;*/. LEAVES •^t-- T^^VX'N I W': .t^' ar* (if(3ira Si). 5^ou/^e w//^ ■ //! ^. T^ ^V^- '^.'^,7^ IL w'/i-; 1tv;.v V ^J^m y^'^ ^t^'-^.^^- Nf"?^r «i^ S''-\\-^ ^-''- N\i^OJ^;^\\jtii::x> ir^' -~^*' i^ -^ \\.' \y^- \V!.^i^ A^^ Book ___!:__ ;/-. j/x. -i# v- Vfvv S--^" i ?^|^ . ■ ^1^ :?7I^ -.•■> ■-^ 4^^ m -^ Oi>^ "'V \\J^ ' ' \\i^- .'^ \ < \\j^ . ;'i: \\J^ x^l?-X\i/^ K^ . ;^i^ ' ?i^^. * ' ^.y.- • ; -i?- V- ■ *^ '' V '^ ^i<^ ■ INDIANS HUNTING THE BUFFALO. But, alas! the poor old man was not long destined to mourn over his misfortunes. While traveling over the beautiful IOWA LEAVES. 45 prairies, or encamped in the picturesque groves that he was once wont to call his own, disease fastened upon his vitals, and the chief lay prostrate in his lodge. How long the burning fever raged and racked in his brain, or who it was that applied the cooling draught to his parched lips, tradition has failed to inform us, but this we may fairly presume, that his trusty followers were deeply distressed at the sufferings of their chief, whom they loved, and administered all the comforts in their power to alleviate his sufferings; but all would not avail. Grim death had Qrossed his path, touched an icy finger to his brow and marked him for his own. Human effort to save could avail nothing. Time passed, and with it the life of Wapello." Keokuk, Appanoose and nearly all the leading men among Indians were present at the funeral, which took place toward evening of the same day upon which the body arrived at the agenc}'. The usual Indian ceremonies preceded the interment, after which the remains were buried by the body of General Street, which was in accordance with the chieftain^s oft-repeated request to be buried by the side of his honest pale-faced friend. Poweshiek, the chief of the Fox Indians, who, as before men- tioned, lived on Skunk river, is described as tall, heavily built, of rough cast of features, and a disposition full of exaction and arrogance. When he left Fort Des Moines for the last time he went south, and encamped temporarily in the southern part of the state. His village, which consisted of about forty lodges, was located on Grand river, not far from the settlements of northern Missouri. A difficulty soon arose between the Missourians and tlie Indians, and there was every reason to suppose that the trouble would terminate in bloodshed. When the report of the difficulty came to Fort Des Moines, three persons — Dr. Campbell, J. B. Scott and Hamilton Thrift — who 46 IOWA LEAVES. had been intimately acquainted with Poweshiek, desirous of preventing bloodshed, mounted their horses and proceeded to the Indian encampment. This was during the winter of 1845 and 1846. Everything in and about the Indian village had a warlike appearance. Mr. Scott sought an early interview with Poweshiek, and spoke to him as follows: " My friends and myself have traveled through the snow a long distance to help you out of this trouble. We are your friends. If you persist in your purpose of making war on the whites, many of your squaws and pappooses, as well as 3'our braves, will be butchered. The remainder will be driven out into the cold and the snow to perish on the prairies. It would be better now for you to break up your lodges and go in peace to your reservation in Kansas, which the government has pro- vided for you." The old chief was at first unwilling to accept this advice, and his principal reason in not doing so was that his conduct would be construed into an exhibition of cowardice. He, how- ever, finally concluded to accept the proffered advice, and in a short time removed beyond the Missouri river. One of the most affable and remarkable of the Indians with whom the early settlers became acquainted was named Kish-ke- kosh. It was in honor of him that Marion county was at first named, it being afterward changed on account of the many objections which were raised to the orthography of the word. This Kish-ke-kosh previous to 1837 was simply a warrior chief — was inferior to the village chief, to which distinction he afterward attained. The village presided over by this chief is well remembered by many of the early settlers. It was located, some say, just over the line in what is now called White Oak 70ir.4 LEAVES. 47 township, Mahaska county. Major Beach thus describes it: "The place cannot be located exactly according to our state maps, although the writer has often visited it in Indian times, but somewhere out north from Richville, and probably not twelve miles distant, on the banks of Skunk river. Not far above the forks of Skunk was a small village of not over fifteen or twenty lodges, presided over by a man of considerable im- portance, though not a chief, named Kish-ke-kosh. The village was on the direct trail ; in fact, it was the converging point of two trails from the Hardfish village, and the three villages across the river below Ottumwa, to the only other prominent settlement of the tribe, which was the village of Poweshiek, a Fox chief of equal rank with Wapello, situated on the Iowa river." Here the squaws, after grubbing out hazel brush on the banks of the stream, unaided by plow or horse, planted and tended patches of corn. Here the men trained their ponies, hunted, fished and loafed until May, 1843, '^^''^^''^ they moved to the vicinity of Fort Des Moines. PIONEER LIFE. "All the experience of the early pioneer of this state goes far to contirm the theory that, after all, happiness is pretty evenly balanced in this world. They had their privations and hardships, but they had also their own peculiar joys. If they were poor, they were free from the burden of pride and vanity; free, also, from the anxiety and care that always attend the pro- cession of wealth. Other people's eyes cost them nothing. If they had few neighbors, they were on the best of terms with those they had. Envy, jealousy and strife had not crept in. A common interest and a common S3'mpathy bound them together SQUAWS GUARDING THE CORN. IOWA LEAVES. 49 with the strongest ties. They were a world to themselves, and the good feeling that prevailed was all the stronger because they were so far removed from the great world of the east. "Among these pioneers there was realized such a com- munity of interest that there existed a community of feeling. There were no castes, except an aristocracy of benevolence, and no nobility, except a nobility of generosity. They were bound together with such a strong bond of sympathy, inspired by the consciousness of common hardship, that they were practically communists. Neighbors did not even wait for an invitation or request to help one another. Was a settler's cabin burned or blown down, no sooner was the fact known throughout the neio:hborhood than the settlers assembled to assist the unfortu- nate one to rebuild his home. They came with as little hesita- tion and with as much alacrity as though they were all members of the same famil}', and bound together by ties of blood. One man's interest was every other man's interest also. Now, this general state of feeling among the pioneers was by no means peculiar to this country, although it was strongly illustrated here. It prevailed generally throughout the entire west during the time of the early settlements. The very nature of things taught the settlers the necessity of dwelling together in this spirit. It was their only protection. They had come far awa}' from the well-established reign of law, and entered a new country where the civil authority was still feeble, and totally unable to afford protection and redress grievances. Each man's protection was in the good will and friendship of those about him, and the thing any man might well dread was the ill will of the community. Such were some of the early characteristics of the early settlers of Iowa." 50 IOWA LEAVES. HOUSES AND HOME COMFORTS. The first buildings in the state were not just Hke the log cabins that immediately succeeded them. These latter required some help and a good deal of labor to build. The very first buildings constructed were a cross between "hoop cabins" and Indian bark huts. As soon as enough men could be got together for a "cabin raising" then log cabins were in st3'le. Many a pioneer can remember the happiest time of his life as that when he lived in one of those homely, but comfortable and profitable, old cabins. A window with sash and glass was a rarity, and was an evidence of wealth and aristocracy which but few could support. They were often made with greased paper put over the window, which admitted a little light, but more often there was nothing what- ever over it, or the cracks between the logs, without either chinking or daubing, was the dependence for light and air. The doors were fastened with old-fashioned wooden latches, and for a friend or neighbor or traveler the string al- ways hung out, for the pioneers of the west were hospitable, and entertained visitors to the best of their ability. It is noticeable with what affection the pioneers speak of their old log cabins. It may be doubted whether palaces ever A PIONEER CABIN. IOWA LEAVES. 51 sheltered happier hearts than those homely cabins. The follow- ing is a good description of these old landmarks, but few of which now remain: IOWA HOME IN EARLY DAYS. "These were of round logs notched together at the corners, ribbed with poles and covered with boards split from a tree. A puncheon floor was then laid down, a hole cut in the end and a 52 IOWA LEAVES. Stick chimney run up. A clapboard door is made, a window is opened by cutting out a hole in the side or end about two feet square, and it is finished without glass or transparency. The house is then 'chinked' and 'daubed' with mud made of the top soil. "The cabin is now ready to go into. The household and kitchen furniture is adjusted, and life on the frontier is begun in earnest. "The one-legged bedstead, now a piece of furniture of the past, was made by cutting a stick the proper length, boring holes at one end, one and a half inches in diameter, at right angles, and the same sized holes corresponding with these in the logs of the cabin the length and breadth desired for the bed in which are inserted poles. "Upon these poles clapboards are laid, or lind bark is interwoven consecutively from pole to pole. Upon this primi- tive structure the bed is laid." The convenience of a cook stove was not thought of then,, but instead the cooking was done by the faithful housewife in pots, kettles and skillets on and about the big fireplace, while the legal sovereigns of the household were indulging in the luxury of a cob pipe, and discussing the probable results of a contemplated elk hunt up and about "Spirit lake." These log cabins were not so bad after all. In giving the bill of fare above we should have added meat, for of this they had plenty. Deer would be seen daily trooping over the prairie in droves of from twelve to twenty, and some- times as many as fifty would be seen grazing together. Elk were also found, and wild turke3'S and prairie chickens without number. Bears were not unknown. Music of the natural order was not wanting, and every night the pioneers were lulled to IOWA LEAVES. 53 rest by the screeching of panthers and tlie hbwHng of wolves. When the dogs ventured too far out from the cabins at night they would be driven back by the wolves chasing them up to the very cabin door. Rough and rude though the surroundings may have been, the pioneers of Iowa were none the less honest, sincere, hospita- ble and kind in their relations. It is true, as a rule, and of uni- versal application, that there is a greater degree of real humanity among the pioneers'of any country than there is when the country becomes older and richer. If there is an absence of refinement, that absence is more than compensated for in the presence of generous hearts and useful lives. They are bold, courageous, industrious, enterprising and energetic. Generally speaking, they are earnest thinkers, and possessed of a diversi- fied fund of useful, practical information. As a rule, they do not arrive at a conclusion by means of a course of rational rea- soning, but nevertheless have a queer way of getting at the facts. They hate cowards and shams of every kind, and above all things falsehoods and deception, and cultivate an integrity which seldom permits them to prostitute themselves to a narrow policy of imposture. Such were the characteristics of the men and women who pioneered the way to the country of the Sac and Fox Indians. Many of them yet remain, and, although as a general thing they are among the wealthiest and most substantial of the peo- ple of the country, they have not forgotten their old-time hospi- tality and free-and-easy ways. In contrasting the present social affairs with pioneer times, one has well said: "Then, if a house was to be raised, every man turned out, and often the women too, and, while the men piled up the logs that fashioned the primitive dwelling-place, the women prepared 54 IOWA LEAVES. the dinner. Sometimes it was cooked by big log fires near the site where the cabin was building. In other cases it was pre- pared at the nearest cabin, and at the proper hour was carried to w^here the men were at work. If one man in the neighbor- hood killed a beef, a pig or a deer, ev^ery other family in the neighborhood was sure to receive a piece. "We were all an equality. Aristocratic feelings were unknown, and would not have been tolerated. What one had they all had, and that was the happiest period of my life. But to-day if you lean against a neighbor's shade tree he will charge you for it. If you are poor and fall sick, you may lie and suffer almost unnoticed and unattended, and probably go to the poor- house; and just as like as not the man who would report you to the authorities as a subject of county care would charge the county for making the report*." Of the old settlers some are still living in the state in the enjoyment of the fortunes they founded in early times, "having reaped an hundred-fold." Others have passed away, and many of them will not long survive. Several of them have gone to the far west, and are still playing the part of pioneer. But, wherever they may be and whatever fate may betide them, it is but truth to sa}' that the}' were excellent men as a class, and have left a deep and enduring impression upon the state of Iowa. There is a tide in the affairs of men Which, taken at the flood, leads on to fortune, Omitted, all the voyafre of their life Is bound in shallows and in miseries. PART SECOND IOWA LEAVES ENTERPRISE AND PROGRESS. FOUNDING OF STATE INSTITUTIONS, ETC. HISTORY OF THE GREAT FATHER OF WATERS. BOATING IN EARLY DAYS, CHAPTER II. ENTERPRISE AND PROGRESS. The spirit of enterprise may be said to be common to our people, and is a characteristic worthy of notice. The circum- stances of the nation have both produced and developed this feature to American society. The original settlers of Iowa were in many instances prompted by a spirit of adventure. They were a bold and enterprising race, and it is not strange that their descendants should inherit a portion of the same spirit. In general, also, the emigrants from foreign countries, who have since made their homes on our shores, have brought with them a similar characteristic. Indeed, it is common only for the most active and fearless spirits in any nation to be willing to break up their attachments to kindred and country and home, and try their fortunes in a different and distant region of the globe. Necessity, rather than choice, has doubtless driven many, especially of late years, to the land of abundance without the requisite diligence or skill to procure it, but this class is not as yet so numerous as to effect any essential change in the enterprising turn of the American population. The circumstances of a new country like our own almost unavoidably give a prominence to active and adventurous life. The case is very different here from what it is in the old and full-grown countries of the eastern con- tinent. In the latter the institutions of society are nearly at a stand, and there is little room for expansion and enlargement, 57 58 IOWA LEAVES. consequently the spirit of enterprise is less known in that por- tion of the globe — there is less occasion and less scope for it. Here, however, everything is in a developing and forming state; changes are continually going on; the institutions of society are not fully established. There is no aristocrac}' ; there are no primogenitures to fix the condition of rank and of property; the consequence is the character, fortune and the comfort of life eminently depend on personal effort and enterprise, to say noth- ing in this place of their early and terrible conflicts to which they were exposed, from a variety of other causes, the fact alone that they have filled a wild and boundless country with the arts and institutions of civilized life shows an indomitable spirit of exertion and perseverance. We also justly attribute to the people a large share of personal independence and resolu- tion. Both natural and moral causes have conspired in produc- ing such traits of character, such as the extent and rugged features of our soil, the purity and brightness of our skies and the invigorating character of our climate. Among the moral causes producing traits of personal independence and resolution may be mentioned the objects sought in the early settlements of our countr}', the hardships to which the early settlers were subjected, their frequent contests with natives, the predominance of the agricultural interests, which are intimately connected with competence and independence, the facility of finding employment and of acquiring property and the various institu- tions, civil and religious, by which our nation is distinguished — these causes, especially the last named, have combined to produce a noble elevation of the public mind. They have, moreover, the characteristic distinction of being an intelligent and educated people. The intellectual character of our native citizens compares favorably with that of other nations. It has, IOWA LEAVES. 59 indeed, the same essential traits; the strong EngHsh good sense is predominant. The capacity for mechanical invention and improvement is perhaps still greater. For their efforts of genius there is a wide field in this country, and the spirit of enterprise is highly favorable to tlieir developments. The rewards of intelligence and ingenuity are well calculated to stimulate the gifted minds of our countrymen to exertion. They who are fitted by education and knowledge for situations where these endowments are wanted, and they are wanted for every station, can find full profitable employment. It is not here as in the confined, overgrown countries of Europe, and doubtless will not soon be, considering the extent of our domain, that almost every branch of business, intellectual or mechanical, is in a state of surfeit. Here the field for enterprise, directed by intelligence, is almost unlimited. Looking to our natural presence as a state, \\q surely need not be ashamed of ourselves in its soil and in its scenery — need not even hide our heads before the titled guests from foreign countries. Our prairies, our meadows, beautiful forests and lovely rivers and fields of yellow grain need not apologize for asking the "lords of the British Isles "to look upon them. Of the fruits of our soil also, we have no reason to be ashamed. We believe, too, that we are less wasteful of our natural resources than before, and from what we can learn and see it is obvious that our people are learning and practicing the fundamental principles of good hus- bandry, and making great advances in the sciences and arts of manuring, draining and all the branches of horticulture and agriculture, while our prairies and forests are being peopled with an industrious race, and the land cheered with thriving farms, cities and villages. The old states have been rejuvenated, and the last few years have brought a wonderful transformation 60 IOWA LEAVES. to all our rural districts, especially to those in the vicinity of our great cities and villages. Perhaps our business affairs never looked better than at present, and any intelligent American who observes what is now doing in our villages and cities, the enter- prise at work in producing and transforming and exchanging the products of the soil, cannot but take to himself some share of the self-respect that belongs to a people so laborious and so intelligent. The sense of prosperity comes home to a great number of our people who may seem little active in promoting it, and hundreds and thousands of quiet citizens have capital invested in coal mines, railroads, manufactories and all kinds of industries that enrich us as a state. Other marks of prosperity we have that rise into intellectual and moral grandeur, and the schools, charitable asylums and churches that are covering our state may well give us a new sense of worth that is even more important than wealth. Constant industry and rich lands have rewarded the farmer with bountiful crops and full barns; there- fore, good farm-houses have been built all over the state. Work is sweet to him who sees that he is to reap where he has sown, and when the farmer of Iowa drives his strong plowshare through the tough sod and turns up the fat black soil, he enjoys his labor, for his mind's eye sees those lands waving with yellow grain which he is sure to reap. Our readers well know, too, that cities do not make them- selves, but are built up with hard, persistent and determined effort, and that besides unwearied labor something is owing to circumstances which no man can foresee. In all the glowing places in our land there is a large investment in machinery, tools, workshops and steam power, and these cities in our state are not places where men buy and sell and get gain, but are also great beehives, where are being produced a thousand IOWA LEAVES. 61 things which civilized people now demand; but let us refer to the open secret of the whole matter, and let no man forget it. Out of the bosom of the beautiful earth comes all the wealth, and he who digs it makes money, not he who sits in his banking house and with greased measure measures gold and wheat; he may get the money, but the other makes it and ought to have it. Behind our cities and villages there spread away these broad acres of fertile lands, upon which grow the waving fields of yellow wheat and of corn, of which millions of bushels are sent forth to feed the people of the old world as well as the new, and the beef and pork and coal industries, without which bankers and merchants would perish and leave no sign. Honor, glory and praise and profit be to the stalwart souls and bodies in Iowa who produce. The people who composed the first colonies of Iowa were great lovers of progress, and watched the rapid innovations of the coming settlers with great satisfaction. The value of land was thus enhanced a hundred-fold. A great many people living in the east at that time had an impression that this part of the country was an entire wilderness hardly redeemable. How few indeed can have any conception of the rapidity with which it has been settled.'^ Civilization pursues one as a remorseful con- science does a fugitive criminal. If any " New Yorker" or any denizen of the now cramped-up eastern states is inclined to doubt, let him travel our broad expanse, and he will find that the wild beast does not make his lair in every timber tract, nor the Indian claim his sovereignty undisputed. Their occu- pation is gone. The wild deer and bear have also disappeared, and work is irksome to the noble savage. Those living here now see the red race almost extinct; they possessed our country at one time, but left no marks upon its histor}', and are 62 IOWA LEAVES. remembered as a curiosit} of the past rather than as a part of the development of manhood. Iowa is also one of the most delightful countries in the world, possessing a genial climate, a fertile soil, abounding in all those natural resources whose development and use con- stitute the true wealth of a state. Her beautiful forests, lovely rivers and extended prairies offer at the same time a rich and varied feast to the romantic traveler. Her annals, although they might now be considered within the memor}^ and experi- ence of a single life, are swelled with many a page wherein the statesman and philosopher may find food for thought and theme for speculation; they furnish us the records of a people who have won a fair heritage by their courage, have cultivated it with industry and governed it with wisdom ; a people who have fought their own battles, plowed their own soil and made their own laws. We may also find names — familiar as house- hold words — of men, types of their race, sustained by native force alone, who have led the way in war and in peace, and attained the highest distinction in the camp and in the cabinet, whose fame, too large for the narrow limits of state, now belongs to our national history. In the first settling of Iowa we might have discerned the Indian and the red deer, but their feet have departed; the sound of the warwhoop and the ring of the rifle have given place to the clip of the ax and the shriek of the steam whistle. The laughing water turns the busy mill and the cry of the wild drake is hushed by the hum of civ- ilization. The mud-chinked cabin of the pioneer settler, initiated from the handiwork of a Daniel Boone, has given place to elegant villas designed by a Downing or a Vaux. Strangely contrasting with the simple garb and manner of the olden time, IOWA LEAVES. 63 we meet everywhere with the hixur}- and poHsh of modern refinement. There are great industries scattered here and there all over our great state, and long, long ago old folks began to shake their heads at the new-fangled institutions springing up every day in our land. Let us go back to the early school days of Iowa and the old log school-house, where our forefathers LOG SCHOOL-HOUSE. acquired the rudiments of learning and experience — the incipient sorrows of knowledge. These log houses were built either on open prairies or under the shadows of native timber, rude log pens, floored with puncheons, with a single opening which served as a door, but entirely without windows or chimneys. In the center of the room was a hearth formed of stones and earth. When in winter a huge log tire blazed and fumed, the 6t IOWA LEAVES. smoke, when not blown into the eyes of the scholars, rose and gathered in a cloud under the high-pitched roof, and escaped through the wide crevices at the eaves. Ranged in a hollow square around the fire were the scholars, who sat on rough- hewn benches conning their well-thumbed primers or blue- backed spelling-books with vociferous diligence. The school was divided into three classes, big bo3's, little boys and girls, and presided over by an Irish schoolmaster, who wore a pair of goggles, and maintained his state on a split-bottomed throne with scepter of hickory — tough timber and far-searching. In these wigwams of science, deep hidden in primeval forests or on smooth, open prairies, the children of the first settlers of Iowa acquired an education. Those days have long since gone by, and we look to-day upon hundreds of magnificent monuments of learning scattered all over our great state, equipped with all the modern improvements, where the children of Iowa to-day are instructed in all the different grades of learning, arts, science and literature. The state of Iowa was originally known as the "Black Hawk Purchase," and many people in the far eastern countr}', even beyond the Alleghany mountains in Virginia, caught the adventurous spirit or "Black Hawk" fever, and migrated to these sparsely-settled regions. Their ancestors were pioneers of that hardy, stony, clear-minded race who settled the Shenan- doah valleys, Virginia, and the Cumberland and Monongahela valleys of Pennsylvania, who built up their churches, improved their homes and with a missionary enterprise ventured farther on. These early pioneers of Iowa were types of the frontier settlers who sought the comforts of home life, the society of friends and the culture of the mind rather than wealth, and, though living in Iowa when speculations might have made them rich, IOWA LEAVES. 65 wilh opportunities to get large fortunes, chose simplicity of life, and the greater portion of them passed away without a dollar in their possession. These noble pioneers came to the state when a mere colony, lived in it while a territory and dur- ing all its great and wonderful growth are among those of the past who live only in the tradition of their friends. Iowa scarcely well preserves the memory of her frontiersmen and pioneers, or is it because each living generation rather loves the present than the past.^ The versatile Chief Justice Joseph Williams, in his day a man of wonderful versatility; Judge Jonathan Hall, strong, clear and honest in his convic- tions and in his life, with his brother Augustus, who had a brilliant imagination and logical mind — fine powers as an orator; Gillespie, with great natural sense and mother wit; Corse, Carpenter, Negus and the venerable Judge Jeffries, among the early and enterprising pioneers, are no more. The versatile genius, Gen. Morgan, or ''Little Red," who so long ranked at the head of the editorial profession in the state, with his friend. Gov. Lucas, who came with the author's father. Col. Robt. Robinson, from the valley of the Scioto to Iowa, are living links in the history of the first settling of this great state. Gen. A. C. Dodge, the great orator and statesman, and minister to Spain during the early administration of our countr}-,. COL. RORT. ROBINSON. 66 IOWA LEAVES. who held many offices of trust in the general and stjite govern, ments — kind, hospitable, charitable, courteous and liberal in everything — is also numbered among the brave and noble pio- neers of Iowa who sleep to-day in our silent cities of the dead. Whether they be considered in regard to mind or heart, no country ever had a braver, happier or more hospitable or more enlightened people than were the hrst settlers of Iowa, Who, like the snowflake on the river, A moment here, then gone forever; Or hke the boreahs race That flits ere you can point the place; Or like the rainbow's beauteous form, Vanishing amidst the storm. It is befitting our theme in speaking of the early days of our state that a brief allusion be made to the great Father of Waters, which marks her eastern boundary and sepa- rates her from the state of Illi- nois, as the first white settle- ments made in the state were along its banks. We will not dwell at great length upon the facts of its discovery, which are generally understood, or which may be found in our standard histories, which tell us that the gallant and roman- tic De Soto had the honor of discovering the great river in the year 1538, almost 400 3'ears ago. The next discovery was made from an entirely different quarter, and was prompted by different motives. GEN. A. C. DODGE. IOWA LEAVES. 67 We allude to its discover}- and exploration by Marquette and Joliet, who were the tirst to explore the river. Upon the results of this exploration the destiny of states and nations has been influenced if not controlled. It is worthy of special notice that the present generation were not the first pio- neers of this beautiful region. On the contrary, the oldest inhabitants simph' came to live in a country first unveiled to the gaze of the world by the dauntless heroism and disinterested religious zeal of James Marquette. He and his companion MARQUETTE AND JOLIET ENTERING THE MISSISSIPPI Joliet were undeniably the first white men who ever trod the soil of Iowa. Space forbids, interesting as the excursion would be,^to follow step by step the progress of their voyage along the shores of Iowa. The mere outlines and meager details which we give are taken wholly from "Marquette^s Original Narration," a most interesting book. They first entered the Mississippi at the place where MacGregor, la., now stands. It seems at that time that 68 IOWA LEAVES. numerous Indian villages were scattered along the banks of the river at this place, whose inhabitants were friendly with Mar- quette, and did their best to dissuade the undertaking of explor- ing the river. "They told me," says Marquette, "that we would meet nations that never spare strangers, but tomahawked them without provocation; that they were at war with each other, which would increase our danger; that the great river itself was full of perils, of frightful monsters, which swallowed up men and canoes; that it contained a demon that ingulfed all who dare approach, and, lastly, that the excessive heat would infallibly cause our death." Disheartened.^ no, not he. "I thanked them for their kind advice, but assured them I could not follow it." So the voyagers entered the great Mississippi near the city of MacGregor on June 7, 1763. The}' were not molested in the least, and traveled along in their birch canoes for nearly 2,000 miles, and saw no human being until June 25. They saw footprints of men by the water's side, and a path leading up through a beautiful prairie. They concluded to stop. This path was rightly conjectured to lead to an Indian village. Singly and alone Marquette and Joliet resolved to pursue the path, and to assume the peril of meeting a barbarous and unknown people, who were in those days the only inhabitants of these regions now bearing the name of Iowa. Following the path some five or six miles they discovered three Indian villages, somewhat separated, on the banks of a beautiful river, the name of which Marquette does not give, but on his map he indicates the course of the river, and gives the names of two of these villages, viz. ; Pe-wa-re and Moin-gue-na. The site of these villages cannot with certainty be ascertained, but the name favors the conjecture that the river was the river Des Moines in southeastern Iowa, and probablv wns. Marquette IOWA LEAVES. 69 and JoHet advanced undiscovered so far that they even heard the Indians talking. In order to show them that they intended no surprise or harm, they halted and by a loud cry announced their presence. Strange meeting that first one on Iowa soil between the amazed Indians and their unknown visitors; wild and strange the cere- monies which characterized it and illuminated it with a wild and strange splendor. They are received in warm welcome and in peace; their course becomes a splendid ovation. The savages depute four of their oldest men to meet and receive them, and two of the deputies bear aloft the gaily-adorned calumet of peace. All four advance silentl}- but slowly with stately, barbarous dignity. Indian-like, as an earnestness of peace, they present their visitors with the mysterious pipe. They invite them to their city and tender, with sincerity and warmth, its rude hospitalit}'. Arriving at the village, all the people turned out to gaze at them, when Marquette briefly spoke of the object of his mission (for they used a dialect of the Algonquin INDIAN PEACE PIPES. lauguagc with which he was famil- 70 IOWA LEAVES. iar) — "Of the one God of the great French captain who had subdued the Iroquois, their ancient enemies." Speech-making on such occasions and in those da3's would not seem to be a civilized ceremony. The sachem of the tribe, rising to reply, spoke as follows, a speech which, though never noticed as such, is one of the finest specimens of Indian eloquence: "I thank the black gown (alluding to Marquette) and the French- man (addressing Joliet) for taking so much pains to come and see us. Never has the earth been so beautiful nor the sun so brisfht as now. Never has the riv^er been so calm nor so free from rocks, which your canoes have removed as they passed. Never has our tobacco had so fine a flavor, nor our corn appeared so beautiful as we behold it to-day. Ask the Great Spirit, whom thou knowest, to give us life and health, and come thou and dwell among us." What a magnificent speech for the first one ever made on Iowa's rich soil over 200 years ago. Following this a great feast was spread before the strangers, which in his glowing style, disdaining particulars, Ban Croft describes as a "magnificent festival, prepared of hominy and fish, with the choicest viands from the prairies of Iowa." Let us consult the faithful and unexaggerated account of Marquette, and see the style and "bill of fare'' of this "magnificent festival," the first meal ever sat down to by white men upon the western side of the Mississippi river in Iowa. " This feast," says Marquette, "consisted of four courses, which we had to take with all their ways. The first course was a great wooden dish of sagamity, that is to say, of Indian meal, boiled in water and seasoned with grease. The master of ceremonies, with a wooden spoonful of sagamity, presented it several times to my mouth as we would to a little child; he did the same to Joliet. For the second course he brought in another dish containing three fish, removed IOWA LEAVES. 71 the bones, and having blown on it to cool, put it into my mouth as we should feed a bird. For a third course they produced a large dog (as an Indian can give no higher mark of his friend- ship than to sacrifice his faithful companion) which they had just killed, but learning that we did not eat dog it was finally withdrawn. The fourth course was a piece of wild buffalo, the fatted portion of which was put into our mouths." This is the style and "bill of fare" of the first meal ever served to the white race within whnt is now the borders of one of the greatest states of the Union. INDIAN CANOE. After remaining in these regions for several days, 600 Indians accompanied Marquette and Joliet to their boats, and they embarked, following the current, and soon passed the boundaries of what is now the great state of Iowa. "Do the departed look down upon us.'* We love to imagine that as these vo3'agers passed along the shores of the great river in the majestic solitude of nature, they listened, and, 72 IOWA LEAVES. listening, heard the busy tramp of the coming milhons, and had visions of the commonwealths that have so marvelousl}' arisen along the banks of the great river that they were the first to explore. They founded no cities, they left no permanent physical monuments behind them, yet a generous posterity will not willingly let their names perish. So long as the river flows it will water their memories, and preserve them fresh and green." This great river and its countless tributaries in Iowa are ours, its babbling fountains, springs and waterfalls, brooks and streams are indisputably ours. It is fortunate for Iowa that this magnificent river flows along its borders and the great state itself has passed into our hands. Only two generations or more have passed awa}', and see the results. Great and flourishing cities and villages line its banks from its source to its mouth. Civil and religious libert}', science, literature, religion, art, education and educational institutions — all that can adorn or bless a state or a nation — have here found a home. What is there anywhere in all the records of our race so remarkable as to be compared with the marvelous growth and development of the Mississippi valley, of which Iowa has a large share. One of the peculiar features connected with this great river in the early settlement of our state was the ''flat boat" which plied the river, built of gun- wales and planks, some loo feet long and thirty broad, and square at the ends, familiarly known as "broad horn." Some were roofed over, others were left open, and carried the loads of giants. On every tributar}' these arks were constructed through the summer and fall, ready to do their work when the hour should come, and then m3riads of corn-fields, large and small, poured their crops together in these "broad horns," and IOWA LEAVES. 73 were swept downward by stream to eastern and southern markets. Those are a thing of the past, and ha\e given place to rapid transportation on the iron rails. Numerous cities have grown up along the banks of this great river in Iowa, which will interest the traveler and speculator — Dubuque, Davenport. Muscatine, Clinton, Burlington and Keokuk. Some of them are large cities, furnished with paved streets, electric and cable cars, warehouses piled with merchandise, manufactories, and one might fancy portions of New York and Chicago had been transplanted as they stood. All these have done much and promise to do more, and active, determined men do not fear to build mills and hotels, railroads and rapid transit car lines and factories, being sure of good returns. The interior cities of our state — Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Ottumwa, Waterloo, Iowa City, ]\Iarshalltown, Oskaloosa, Iowa Falls, Vinton, Anamosa, West Liberty, ]Mt. Pleasant, Fairfield, Pella, Charles City, Sig- ourney, Knoxville, Atlantic, Red Oak, Chariton, Osceola, Cres- ton. Corning, Centerville, Shenandoah, Clarinda and hundreds of others — are filled chuck full of an enterprising class of citizens, who work hard for the upbuilding of their cities and the country surrounding them. Council Bluffs and Sioux City, on the banks of the great Missouri in the extreme western part of the state, are noted for their enterprise and push. Both are rapidly improving, and are a surprise to the traveler passing through the western portion of our state. The report of the treasurer of the state of Iowa shows that her financial condition is better now than it has ever been. The total assessed value of taxable propert}- at present is $522,- 567477- The reports of the various state institutions give a fair account of the work done by them. All are in excellent condi- 74 IOWA LEAVES. tion, and are performing with a large measure of efficiency the parts assigned them, respectively, whether educational, eleemosy- nary or reformatory. First is the Hospital for the Insane at Mt. Pleasant, which is well managed; the discipline among the employes is excellent, and complaints on the part of patients are exceedingly rare. The second Hospital for the Insane is located at Independence. The farm connected with this hos- pital contains 580 acres of land, whicli not only furnishes health}' THE INSTITUTION FOR FEEBLE-MINDED CHILDREN employment for a large number of male patients, but also promises to reduce to a considerable extent the cost of supporting the institution. The trustees in their last report have asked for an appro- priation of $10,000 for an electric light plant. The elec- tric light is giving excellent satisfaction in the state institutions where it is in use. The new Hospital for the Insane at Clarinda, in Page county, which was completed in 1888, is one of the best equipped hospitals in the state. The report of the visiting committee bears witness to the good management of this hos- pital. They speak very highly of the quantity and quality of IOWA LEAVES. 75 food served and clothing provided for the patients, of the care bestowed upon the sick and infirm and of the excellent sanitary condition of all these institutions. The institution for the feeble-minded children at Glenwood, in Mills county, is w^ell worthy of notice. It ist he object of the state to afford the largest opportunity possible for the improve- ment of these feeble-minded children, and unremitting attention is required on the part of those who have charge of them. The brightening and developing mind that responds ordinarih' to the efforts of the teacher of the young, and gladdens his heart, is here sadly wanting, and there is little to cheer him beyond the conscious- ness of faithful endeavor. The results reached in the educational and industrial departments of this institution are quite satisfactory, and the reports of the trustees and superintendents are worthy of careful consideration. The Soldiers' Orphan Home at Daven- port is another institution wherein Iowa has been diligent in contributing to the mental, moral and physical welfare of its inmates with wholesome and abundant food, tender care and excellent educational facilities. The benevolent hand of the greatest state in the Union is rearing its poor unfortunate children to healthy, useful and intelligent manhood and woman, hood. It is certainly a wise polic}- that leads to a life of happi- ness and virtue these friendless children, who otherwise might be doomed to a career of wretchedness and crime, were they left to the mercy of a cold and uncharitable world. The Soldiers' Home is another interesting^ institution in our state. The readiness with which the feeble, crippled and home- less soldiers avail themselves of the comforts and facilities of this home demonstrates that the twenty-first General Assembly acted wisely in establishing this institution. Good fare, clean beds, warm rooms, baths and in time of sickness care and atten- 7(5 IOWA LEAVES. tion constitute both a welcome and deserved provision for the Union veterans. All reports show that this home is being well manasfed. The siirroundino;s of this institution have been beauti- fled by the planting of shade trees, by the clearing of unsightl}' objects from the grounds and by other improvements, which give the place the appearance of a well-kept home. The discipline and general management of the State-Prison at Ft. Madison has been excellent in every respect, and the appropriations made by the late general assembly have been expended with care and economy. The number in continement June 30, 1889, was ninety-four less than at the beginning of the period, and was smaller than at any corresponding time in any other year since 1882. Nor was this due to any excessive use of the pardoning power. The number of commitments to the two penitentiaries in the state for the period was 536. This is the smallest number of commitments in any biennial period since 1873. The reduction in the number of convicts in the prison made the expense of supporting and guarding them $13,371.51 less than during the previous term. If the number of prisoners continues to decrease in the same ratio in which it has decreased during the last four years. Iowa will soon have a prison for sale or rent. Another State-Prison is situated at Animosa in the north- east part of the state; one ward being devoted entire!}' to the use of female criminals, a great improvement being thus effected in the facilities of caring for these inmates of the prison. The criminal insane show marked physical and mental improvement, due to their large, commodious and well-ventilated quarters and much outdoor exercise. Better hospital and bath-room facilities have also been provided, and the general health of the prison has been good. IOWA LEAVES. 77 The Prisoners' Aid Association continues its work for the reformation of the criminal. The state is interested not only in the punishment of the crime, but also in the career of the convict after he has satisfied the law. This association aims to make that career a credit to the man and a benefit to society. The State Industrial School, located at Eldora, is one of our most interesting institutions. The general health of this school has been unusually good, and the results of its work are spoken of in the highest terms by the trustees. Many of the former inmates of this institution are now useful and respected members of society, and their lives bear witness to the good training which the school affords. This moral hospital renders excellent service to the state. The report of the superintendent of public instruction, in presenting the condition and needs of the public schools, is unusually interesting. The school property, number of teachers and average school attendance show a considerble increase. The number of school children between the ages of five and twenty- one is 649,606. The number enrolled in the public schools is 489,227 and the average dail}' attendance 304,856. The number of teachers reported is 25,793 ; the number of schools, 15,611; the number of school-houses, 12,897, representing a value of $12,- 580,345. The permanent school fund amounts to $4,319,442, and continues to increase. The averaije monthlv wasfes of male teachers is $37.52 and of female teachers $30.87. The superintendent states that the law requiring instruction in the public schools concerning the effects of stimulants and narcotics upon the human system has been observed in nearlv every school in the state. This instruction, contemplated to fortify the child against the formation of bad habits, promises great good to the cause of temperance. 78 IOWA LEAVES. Iowa occupies the enviable position of having the best schools and the least number of illiterates, in proportion to population, of all the states in the Union, which nothing but the greatest vigilance has given her. Our schools will always be what we make them; they reflect the will and spirit of the people, and rise or fall to their standard. The State University at Iowa City is another leading insti- tution, which is in an unusually flourishing condition. The financial affairs of the institution and the strengthening of the faculty have had careful attention on the part of the board of regents. The changes made in the several faculties have brought about great harmon}- among teachers and students, and develop an increasing interest on the part of the latter. The educational interests of Iowa are dear to our people; therefore, we have an institution worthy of our commonwealth. We have an institution where the best facilities for securinof a liberal education are provided. The agricultural college at Ames is such an institution. The number in the last orraduatino: class was forty-five, besides three who took a second degree. This is the largest class that has ever left the institution. The experiments in horticulture and forestry at this institution con- tinue with satisfactory results. It is certainly profitable to our people to learn what fruits are, and what are not, adapted to our climate and soil. It has been the aim of the management to conform to the requirements of the congressional act granting the college lands, and to impart instruction in studies pertaining to agriculture and the mechanical arts as well as in military tactics. The State Normal School at Cedar Falls, with 541 pupils in attendance, is another very prominent institution in our state. A gratifying feature of the growth of this school is found in the IOWA LEAVES. 79 increased number of students in the higher grades. Teachers acquire the art of teaching and thorough training, and those who enjoy the benefits of normal instruction for even a short space of time are better fitted for their work by reason of that discipline. The unification of the work of the normal school with that of the high school, which was suggested in the reports of 1887, has been tried sufficiently to warrant the opinion that it increases the usefulness of this institution, and is also of advantage to the high schools, adjusting their work to the pre- scribed course. While recognizing the great usefulness of this institution, we feel that it is only just to make here a due acknowledgment of the excellent work which is being done by the several private normal schools m the state. Most of these enjoy a high degree of prosperity, and their influence is felt in almost every school district in Iowa. The institution for the deaf and dumb, situated at Council Bluffs, is in a prosperous condition, and the health of the inmates unusually good. This institution has been very prudently managed, and may well be proud of having sent a proportionately larger number to the national college for the deaf and dumb than an}' other school. Great nnportance is justly attached to manual and industrial training in the education of the young. This institu- tion is lighted by electricity and equipped with all modern improvements. The colleofe for the blind at Vmton is one of the most wonderful and interesting institutions in the state. The total enrollment of pupils durmg the term was 206, while the largest enrollment at any other time was 177. All but one are natives of the United States, and fortv were born in Iowa. The build- ing and grounds are in excellent condition. An appropriation 80 IOWA LEAVES. has been made by which the water-works system of the city of Vinton will be extended to the college. Our national guard consists of six regiments of eight com- panies each, with fifty men to each company. They are all well uniformed, equipped with improved firearms and all the necessary accouterments, and supplied with all necessaries. The guard is officered largely by experienced soldiers of the civil war, and the rank and file is composed of the best young men in the state, who have an earnest desire to learn military tactics and art. It is in a high state of discipline, and is pre- pared to respond promptly whenever it may be called into active service. The encampments during the past two years have been unusually successful. For those held last year the secretary of war detailed two companies from the regular army to encamp with each regiment, which proved of great service to both our officers and men. The State Horticulture Society is engaged in gathering and disseminating information as to the fruits best fitted for cultivation in the state, and renders valuable service to our peo- ple. Its work fully justifies the small expenditure increased by the state on its account. The growing interest in the improvement of the breeds of domestic animals is evidenced in the proceedings of the Improved Stock Breeders' Association. The apparent benefit of feeding grain to live stock instead of shipping it out of the state has directed attention to the profitableness of improved breeds, and almost incredible advancement has been made during the past twenty years in the improving of the quality of our domestic animals. This association has contributed largel}' to this pro- gress. The number and value of live stock in our state in 1889 were as follows: Horses, 1,053,193, valued at $78,975,376, mules. IOWA LEAVES. 81 47,018, valued at $4,003,124; milch cows, 1,293,095, valued at $22,861,880; other cattle, 2,095,253, valued at $42,856,531; hogs, 6,750,000, valued at $38,082,500; sheep, 540,700, valued at $1,332,559; aggregate value, $189,110,970. The work of the dairy commissioners was so well per- formed during the period contemplated by the original act for its existence that it has been determined to make the office a permanent one. While the law does not prohibit the manufact- ure and sale of imitation butter or cheese, its practical opera- tion has virtually brought about such prohibition. The com- missioners' reports show that there has never been a manufac- tory of oleomargarine in the state, and there never has been issued any federal license for the sale of that article in the forty- nine counties constituting the Dubuque internal revenue district. The co-operation of the national and state authorities is com- plete, and through their combined efforts the sale of simulated dairy products has been quite effectually stopped. In the year 1888 618 creameries produced 41,576,548 pounds of butter. In 1889 there were 683 creameries, with products 15 per cent, larger than those of the previous year. In 1888 there were 104 factories making 4,406,098 pounds of cheese; in 1889 there were 164 factories. The estimated value of all butter and cheese made at the factories last year is $16,779,235.89. The Iowa weather service has completed its twelfth year under state auspices. The data gathered by the director during many years are of permanent value, and are calculated to dispel the erroneous notion concerning violent atmospheric disturb- ances in Iowa that are widely entertained beyond our border. By sensational newspaper writers in and outside of Iowa the people of this country have come to believe that this state is overrun in winter, and especially in summer, with tornadoes. 82 IOWA LEAVES. The official and semi-official publication of the signal service republished by Iowa papers has confirmed our people in this beHef, so that many take fright at the first dark and threatening cloud appearing above the western horizon. There can be no question that these stories have frightened many eastern people out of the purpose of settling in Iowa. The tornado at Reading, Pa. (January 9, 1889), was made the topic of extended notice in the same style, one of the most prominent papers of our state going so far as to frighten our people by editorially assuring them that such tornadoes might visit Iowa in midwinter, and that it would be wise in winter to constantly look out for threatening clouds of this kind; this means in plain English that our Iowa people should even in mid- winter be in constant fear of danger to life and property b}^ the dread tornado. We, therefore, deem it our duty in this work to protest against this unwarranted defamation of the cli- mate of Iowa and most cruel and unfounded play on the fears of our people, and we are astonished to find that a few of the papers in the state have indulged in cheap ridicule instead of disabusing the minds of our people in regard to the fancied tor- nado dangers of Iowa that are keeping away desirable immi- grants, and thus contribute to the depression of property in our state. Straight-blowing gales occur in almost all parts of the world. The inhabitants of any country will have to learn to resist the power of these storms. Here in the northwest we have such gales or Iowa squalls. There is no need to insure against such storms, but rather to use the capitalized insurance premium to secure substantial structures. When building our architects should learn above all to avoid furnishing every gale a special leverage and advantages in broad cornices and other projecting fancy ornaments. Wc ought to stop putting up band- IOWA LEAVES. 83 box buildings on our prairies, and adapt our architecture to the cHmate of the state we Hve in. But above all we ought no longer to till our newspapers with glaring headlines of tornadoes and cyclones whenever a moderately fierce straight gale sweeps across our prairies and has turned over some of the flimsy struct- ures that have been put up more for looks and size than for strength and comfort. For this sort of mishap the climate of Iowa is not to blame; it is the work of the people themselves. Iowa is fast becoming a great manufacturing center and every encouragement is being given to investors. By building up factories in our midst we do away with the long haul and bring the producer and consumer nearer together. We have in the past imported too many of the products of eastern mills and workshops, and export far too many of the products of our farms. Many of these are worked up in other states to be returned and retailed within our borders. Our people thus lose the price of freight both ways, the earnings of the laborer and the protits of the manufacturer and dealer. Our courts show a marked improvement in dealing with the temperance question in the last few years, nearly all of the judges being now disposed to enforce the law whether they are in sympathy with it or not. In those counties where the law is not enforced the fault lies -almost invariably with the executive officers. The constitution provides that the governor shall take care that the laws are faithfully executed, and the statutes authorize him to suspend any state officer who may neglect this duty. But a county officer may willfully neglect his duty, and the governor has no power to call him to account. If pro- vision were made for the suspending for gross negligence of such officers as are charged with the enforcement of the law, and ample funds were placed at the command of the governor 84 IOWA LEAVES. to aid prosecution, the saloon would soon be a thing of the past in Iowa. Divine Providence has certainly been most propitious to the people of our state not only during the past few years, but ever since Iowa became a state. We have been blessed with beauti- ful crops, good health and general prosperity. We have been free from all calamity and social disorders, and we have much and undisputed evidence of the intellectual and moral advance- ment of our people. Iowa capital, which for several years sought speculative investments beyond our borders, realizes the magnitude and stability of our resources, and is fast returning to aid in the building up of our industries and the enhancement of our commerce. Schools and colleges are multiplying through- out the state, and both church and society stand upon a higher plane than ever before. We shall endeavor to give our readers descriptions of por- tions of our great state and the many natural advantages possessed by them. First we will enter the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa and dwell largely on the many beauties they contain. PART THREE SOUTHWESTERN IOWA BEAUTIES OF THE BLUE GRASS REGIONS AND BLUE GRASS PALACE AT CRESTON, UNION COUNTY, IOWA. CHAPTER III. BEAUTIES OF THE BLUE GRASS REGIONS AND PALACE. The great resources of the Hawk-eye state are known far and wide, yet to the world there is much to tell of the enter- prise of the people who have placed Iowa in the front rank of all the states in the Union. In order to tell the story of the enterprise of these people in this connection it is necessary to go back to the origination of the Blue Grass League of south- western Iowa, which has done much, and promises to do more, toward the upraising of one of the greatest states in the Union. The Blue Grass League w^as organized some three years ago at Creston, Union county, by a large number of enthusiastic and intelligent citizens of that portion of the country, for the purpose of uniting more firmly the interests of that beautiful section. The untiring efforts put forth by the efliicient officers and members of this organization have been crow^ned with success, and the benefits derived therefrom for southwestern Iowa have been marvelous. The Blue Grass League comprises eighteen of our best counties, which are as follows: Appanoose, Wayne, Decatur, Ringold, Taylor, Page, Fremont, Mills, Montgomer}', Adams, Union, Clarke, Lucas, Warren, Madison, Adair, Cass and Pottawattamie. These regions possess a genial climate, good pure water and a large supply of native timber and extensive veins of coal, while the prairies are dotted with well-cultivated farms, which greet the eye of the traveler in every direction, and on 87 88 IOWA LEAVES. all sides may be seen the evidence of thrift, prosperity and com- fort found only in the best farming regions of the state. The winters here are mild, considering the latitude, and the sum- mers are not especialh' warm. There is an absence of many diseases that often render the lower lands peculiarly unhealthy. Wheat, oats, corn, rye, barley, millet and flax yield rich and luxuriant returns to the husbandman and all kinds of fruits and garden vegetables incidental to the latitude can be grown in profusion. The peculiar climate and soil of these regions are admirably adapted to the growth of tame grasses, and hay from IOWA LEAVES. 89 these regions, wherever known, displaces others in the markets of the south and cast. Live stock, especially horses and cattle, live and thrive well during ordinary seasons the year round on pasturage and hay feeding and from November to April on the famed winter blue grass pasture of this section. No country under the sun has better drainage or veins of water, the' average depth of wells being from twenty-five to thirty-five feet deep. Nearly every farm is supplied with good pure water by springs, rivers or running brooks, and no country within the limits of our continent stands drought so well, and owing to the rolling character of the surface of the country crops are little damaged by wet seasons. Rarel}' will the traveler find a more mag- nificent country, more suggestive of real wealth and prosperity, than can be seen on the broad rich prairies of the blue grass regions of southwestern Iowa. In rapid succession we pass the elegant homes of the industrious farmer, with his fields of 3ellow grain and waving corn and large herds of stock grazing on luxuri- ant blue grass pasture. There beautiful homes have arisen from the rude cabins of the frontier farmer as attractive as any in our eastern states, surrounded by fine bearing orchards, gardens and all the luxuries known to farm life. Cosy school- houses are seen in every district and neat white churches with their tapering spires point to the abode of Him who hath so richly blessed his children. There is certainly beauty on every hand. The wild flowers on the prairies, of a thousand different varieties and colors, greet the e3e at every step, and even the tiniest foot could scarcely touch the ground without crushing the life from some of these emblems of purity. These regions are certainly favored spots in Iowa, and those seeking homes can find here all that is desirable in climate, pleasant, intelligent and prosperous people, good markets, 90 IOWA LEAVES. excellent schools, fine churches, low taxes, fertile soil, pure water and a country that produces good average crops every year. California may and does possess grand and magnificent mount- ain scenery, unsurpassed, I presume, b}'' any in the world, together with broad and fertile plains; Idaho, Montana, Nevada and Colorado are grand and beautiful in their rugged strength, but in none of these can be found scenes of quiet, graceful beauty which, by any stretch of imagination, can be ranked as equal to those found anywhere in the blue grass regions. Nowhere else have we seen vegetation clothed in such brilliant colors, and when the surfaces of other lands are bare, parched and brown, the transition from thence to these green fields and fertile plains unfolds to us almost a new phase of existence. These regions are less susceptible to the effects of drought than any of the adjoining countries, neither have extremes of wet weather as yet caused any severe loss to crops. The great abundance of grain, stock, dairy products, coal, stone and native timber would not be especially valuable to this country were it not for the excellent shipping facilities afforded. The Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, or Blue Grass route, traverses this section entirely from east to west by main line and from north to south by numerous branches. No railroad on the continent passes through so rich and fertile country as does this through the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa. This is one of the great natural advantages possessed by this famous section of country. The traveler who carefully surveys these regions as he passes through them will find that they also con- tain many beautiful cities and villages, whose rapid growth is largely due to the enterprise of the class of citizens dwelling in the towns and surrounding countries. The old wooden business houses and blocks in these cities IOWA LEAVES. 91 and villages are being torn down and magnificent brick blocks are fast taking their places, and the size and quality of the stock of croods carried by the business men are as constantly and rapFdly improving, and their schools and churches rank among the best in the state; factories are being established in all these towns, as the location, railroad facilities, abundance of water and cheap fuel are benefits of which manufacturers will take advantage, and finally cause them to establish their works in these regions, while those already located here are very suc- cessful. ^The coal-mining industry in the blue grass regions is in better condition at present than at any time since the creat- ing of the departments. The ventilation, drainage and general security of nearly all the mines in this region have been greatly improved!^ The double-entry system and the split-air system are rapidly taking the place of the old methods, and con- sequently the bad air in mines and other evils are much dimin- ished. It is said that the mining law and mine inspection of Iowa are second only to Pennsylvania. These mines during the past year have enjoyed a splendid trade. Although there has been no advance in prices, all things considered, it has been a very prosperous year, and the outlook at present is very encouraging for the future. We think this can be attributed, to a certain extent, to so many new railroads opening up in the west, which makes a large market for Iowa coal, and the freight rates being more favorable to the west has a tendency to shut out competition. When we consider that as recently as seventy-five years ago in England and Scotland coal was carried to the surface by women on their heads; that wheelbarrows or sleds dragged by hand or by dogs were used for a long time; that hoisting was done by horses in gins or by water-balance shafts; that even 92 IOWA LEAVES. after the introduction of iron rails, until a recent date, horses and mules were exclusively employed, all of which could trans- port but limited quantities of coal, we can better appreciate the great advantages of modern progress in the way of machinery, which now brings more coal to the surface of the earth in a day than half a century ago was brought in a year. The man}' advantages herein enumerated are but a few of those possessed by the blue grass regions of southwest lowa^ the whole of which can only be known and appreciated by a personal inspection or residence in this country, which will bear the closest inspection and test, as it is impossible to give more than a brief description of the same at this time in this work. But those who have lived here for years know whereof we speak. We confidently invite the stranger to test the truth of our assertions by a personal visit and inspection, knowing that he will find the blue grass regions all and more than we herein claim for it. PEN PICTURE OF CRESTON AND THE BLUE GRASS PALACE. Love of nature, that strong feeling of enthusiasm which leads to profound admiration of the whole works of creation, belongs, it may be presumed, to a certain peculiarity of organi- zation, and has no doubt existed in different individuals from the beginning of the world. The old poets and philosophers, romance writers and troubadours had all looked upon nature with observing and admiring eyes. jNIost of them have given incidentally charming pictures of spring, of the setting sun, of particular favorite spots and of favorite flowers. There are few writers of note, of any country or of any age, from whom quotation might not be made on this subject ; therefore, it will be necessary that the reader should accompany us IOWA LEAVES. 93 through the most romantic country in the world and with us gaze on the most subhme picture of the age. We are confident that you will be agreeably pleased, delighted and entertained in making the journey. Never before had art and nature been manipulated with so great genius and skill as was demonstrated in the bkie grass palaces of 1889 and 1890. A perfect pano- rama of all that is beautiful in art and nature was expressed here in all its intensity, and until this work had not been written on exclusively. Three 3'ears or more ago an idea originated in the Blue Grass League of southwestern Iowa, of the creation of a palace to be built on the fair grounds at Creston, in Union county, being the most central location in the regions, and where each of the aforesaid counties, all members of the league, might exhibit the products of their soils — a place where people might meet together in one grand holiday exposition after the harv^est was past and the summer ended. The idea met with the approval of all officers and members of the league, and the pal- ace was built and thrown open to the public on August 26, 1889, and each county in the league occupied a separate booth in the very unique structure, where they exhibited all their fruits, vegetables, grasses and grains, products of the dairy, wood, coal, sandstone, marble and numerous articles from the manu- facturing industries throughout the blue grass regions. Here was certainly one of the grandest scenes ever witnessed by people in any country under the sun. A magnificent structure completely covered with all the varieties of grasses and golden grains grown in the blue grass regions, manipulated with all the beautiful flowers of the fields, the architecture being hand- somely wrought in all the novel decorations, giving it a decided appearance of those grand old palaces or hanging-gardens of ye 94 IOWA LEAVES. olden times, of which we have often read in the oldest and best history of the world. It not only presented an interesting and charming appearance, but one of great study as well to a vast multitude who gazed upon the sublime beauty and lofty mag- nificence of the onl}' original blue grass palace in the world. The palace of 1889 proving such a splendid ovation, the league decided that the one of 1890 should far surpass in true beauty and elegance the one of the year before, so it was enlarged to three times the former size and thrown open to the public again on August 26, 1890, and the whole world has learned through this palace the wonders of the blue grass regions in south- western Iowa. The front of this beautiful structure, composed entirely of the products of the soil, faces the east, and has a total length from north to south of 265 feet and is 132 feet wide, the main tower in the center of the building being 120 feet high, while on the north and south wings are two towers ninety feet high; over the main entrance on the east side is another tower 100 feet in length, which, with several smaller towers, give the building a grand appearance, and far surpasses, both in the exterior and the interior finish, the one of 1889, and contains more than three times the amount of space, giving each county in the league just double the room it had the year previous. The entire south wing of the new building is devoted entirely to a vast auditorium, which seats comfortably 2,000 people. Eighteen counties chose their respective booths in the new building in which to make their exhibits, the Ottumwa Coal Palace Association one, while the Northern Pacific Railroad Company chose two, in which to exhibit samples of the excel- lent products from the famous section of country along their line of road from St. Paul to Puget sound. The remaining booths IOWA LEAVES. 95 were occupied by the District Fair Association witli a most interesting display, while numerous business firms of Creston occupied large space on the gallery floor. This great exposition and industrial exhibit was opened to the world at large on August 26, 1890, by Gov. Horace Boies, the palace governor of Iowa, with all the pride and splendor which all true lowans know so well how to assume. The noted Iowa State Band of Des Moines accompanied the governor and staff, and discoursed music on this occa- sion calculated to stir the innermost depths of the human soul. The vast and beautifully decorated auditorium in the south wing of the lovely building was filled to overflowing with a sea of happy faces, while the handsome galleries above fairly groaned beneath the burden of an eager, anxious humanity, and, when the highest executive of the greatest state in the Union stepped to the front of the large stage so exquisitely decorated with all the products of our soil, and looked upon all the luxurious grandeur surrounding him, the enthusiasm was so great that thousands of handkerchiefs fluttered to the breeze, while cheers of greeting went up from the mouths of over 4,000 people. Such scenes as were witnessed here on the opening day of the palace of 1890 are perhaps only experienced but once in a single life, and are certainly grand beyond descrip- tion; they must be seen to be appreciated. Scarcely had the sweet notes of the beautiful rendition, "Hail to the Chief,'' died away when the governor expressed himself as highly delighted with the magnificent palace and decorations, wliich were the most beautiful and elaborate ever seen on the continent. " There is always something new under the sun, and this beautiful palace, constructed of the products of our soil, demonstrates this fact to our people. This structure is indeed 96 IOWA LEAVES. wonderful to look upon, and all lovers of art and nature are both delighted and interested as they gaze upon this great monument of industry and enterprise erected by the people of southwest Iowa, and by them exquisitely decorated with all the products of a rich soil," One of the most conspicuous and nov'el features of this palace is the royal suspension bridge stretching from north to south on the highest portion of the building, twelve feet wide, from which a magnificent view of Creston and the beautiful surrounding country is obtained; also of the race tracks below, on which wonderful records of speed are made every day during the exposition. Union county being the home of the Blue Grass Palace, and also the home of the writer, we will dwell at some length on a description of the same and of the city of Creston, her county seat and the metropolis of southwest Iowa. Should we show any partiality in the description of our own county, we hope to be pardoned by our friends living in other portions of the state. Union county is beautifully situated in the southwestern part of Iowa, between Adams and Clarke, while Madison and Adair join lands with her on the north, and a county called Ringold looks upon her with favor from the south. Creston, the county seat, contains over 8,000 inhabitants, and is located on the highest crest of land between the majestic Mississippi, which marks the eastern boundary of our state, and the great Missouri that bounds it on the west, 190 miles west of Burling- ton and 1 10 east of Omaha, Neb.; it is also situated on the main line of the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, which penetrates the county from east to west by main line, and from north to south by branches. IOWA LEAVES. 97 The country surrounding Crcston is high and undulating, with a landscape of great beauty in all directions, while hand- some brick blocks adorn the principal streets of the cit}', solidly built, denoting great business prosperity. A complete system of water-works is in construction, which, when finished, will furnish a constant supply of pure water to her inhabit- ants. A fine Westinghouse electric light plant furnishes incandescent light for lighting streets and buildings, and the city has an efficient free delivery system of the mails and one of the finest-equipped fire departments in the west. LAKE MAURINE, NEAR CKESTON. Creston now contains an area of 2,540 acres, with a total of eighty-five miles of streets and as much of sidewalks; it has a frontage of brick buildings amounting to nearly 3,000 feet, which are estimated to be worth about $100,000. There is a good system of sewerage established, and miles of water- mains leading through the principal streets of the city. The railroad tracks and buildings occupy about ten blocks of IOWA LEAVES. the original plat and mark a dividing line between the north and south sides, the business portion of the city lying north of the tracks. A handsome court-house was erected on North COURT-HOUSE. Pine street about one year ago at a cost of $30,000, which is an ornament to the city, and one of the finest public build- ings in southwestern Iowa. The height to the top of the brick IOWA LEAVES. 99 work is tifty-six feet, and to the tinal ninety feet. The lower story is used for auditor, clerk of court, treasurer, recorder, sheriff, county attorney and superintendent of schools, and con- tains five vaults. There is a double stairway in front, and single stairway in the rear leading up to the second floor, where a large court-room is located. This room is 36x60 feet, and twenty-four-foot ceiling. The council chamber is 1 7x40 feet ; the room for grand and petit juries, and private chamber for judge of superior court are on this floor. A splendid public-school system, of which every true lowan is justly proud, finds a per- manent home in Creston and Union county; four commodious brick school-houses of three stories each, three frame and one new modern high school are found in the city of Cres- ton, and no section of country is more favorably located as to district schools. The buildings are mostly of frame, with good furniture and all the modern appliances for the rapid develop- ment of the mind and body. The various religious denomina- tions have good church homes both in the city and country. No state in the Union has a larger per cent, of intelligence among the masses than Iowa, and no county has more people who can read and write, and a larger number professing the Christian religion according to the population, than Union county. The rapid growth of this city is largely due to the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy shops being located here, which employ a great number of men; being also a division station large numbers employed in the train service necessarily make their homes here, and being the county seat her prospects are fine for becoming a large and prosperous city. A handsome brick depot with limestone trimmings is in contemplation by the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and will no doubt be built next spring. An elegant brick block L.ofC. lOO IOWA LEAVES. has just been completed on the corner of Adams and Pine streets, one block north of the Union depot, the lower floor of which is already filled with business firms, while the upper sto- ries are being fitted for the elegant new Ewing hotel, and will be opened about March i. This block is known as the Gibson- Griffin block, and is one of the finest in southern Iowa; the • SCENE LOOKING NORTH ON MAPLE STREET. rooms all being new and supplied with elegant furnishings make it a preferable resort for the traveling public. Mr. R. E. Ewing, the proprietor, is a thorough business man of great energy, and has hosts of friends in the blue grass regions of JOWA LEAVES. 101 southwestern Iowa. This hotel, under the management of Mr. and Mrs. R. E. Ewing, will be strictly first-class in every respect, and, in the selection of help necessary to carry on such a hotel, none but competent men and women of large experience have been engaged. This hotel is one of the long- felt wants of the palace city, and we hope to see it liberally patronized by the traveling public. Reader, when you come up to Creston to see the blue grass palace of 1891, you will find all that is desirable in this hotel, one block north of the depot. Creston is prepared to entertain in first-class st3-le all the stran- gers who may enter her gates, as the Summit House, corner of Adams and Elm streets, is also a fine hotel, three stories in height and contains about seventy rooms; it is operated by Mr. James Beck, formerly of Fairfield, who understands fully the art of catering to the public, having had years of experience in the business. This hotel is also first-class in every respect, and accommodates a large share of the traveling public. The Hotel De Miller on the south side is a well-kept house, and during the past year has done a good business; it serves excellent meals at very reasonable rates. A number of other smaller hotels and private boarding- houses are found in the city, and also a number of good res- taurants; among the latter is Schorr^s European restaurant, recently opened in the new Gibson-Griffin block, one of the finest in the state and a place where the most fastidious may go and be served with all the delicacies which the season affords. Suppers for puplic and private balls and parties are furnished on short notice, and everything the epicurean could wish for is prepared in style at moderate prices, and meals are served at all hours. B. L. Schorr has the finest location in the city and certainly deserves the liberal patronage which he receives. 102 IOWA LEAVES. All the different classes of business necessary to supply the demands of regions tributary to a city are carried on in Creston and several large wholesale houses have an extensive RESIDENCE OF W. F. PATT, trade in the city and with many towns in the surrounding counties. IOWA LEAVES. 103 GROCERIES. The largest retail grocer}' establishment is the firm of Scurr & Gotten, located on North Pine, East ^Montgomery and West Adams streets. This firm came to the city about six years ago, and by the excellent manner in which tlicy have dealt with the public have been very successful in busi- ness, and have won both fame and distinction in the palace city and throughout the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa, Scurr & Gotten employ about twenty-five clerks and two expe- rienced bookkeepers in the three places of business, paying out monthly large sums of money, which circulate in this city. The lower store on North Pine and an elegant china hall on East Montgomery are under the supervision of Mr. James Scurr, while the "West End Grocer}',"'^ on West Adams street, is successfully operated by Mr. S. R. Gotten; each grocery has a first-class meat market in connection, which makes it very con- venient for people to trade with them. Both of these gentle- men are first-class, energetic business men, and are certainly deserving of the immense trade they receive both in the city and country. This firm occupied large space on the gallery floor of the blue grass palace of 1S90, with an elegant display of groceries, queensware and cured meats, which was greatl}' admired by all visitors. The next retail grocery of interest in this city is located on North Maple street, in merchants' block, is owned and operated by Mr. A. P. Munson, and bears the name of the "Palace Grocery." Mr. Munson has been a resident of Greston for a number of years, and has built up a large trade; he is a business man of great merit. He employs five clerks and one experienced bookkeeper, and has a complete system of the Barr cash carrier in operation. Order and neatness always 104 IOWA LEAVES. prevail in the Palace Grocery, which is filled with an excel- lent stock of goods carried onl}- in a first-class grocery store, and there is a well-equipped meat market in connection. RESIDENCE OF R. S. KEITH. Near the corner of Adams and Maple streets, in the Mal- lory block, is located another prosperous grocery store. A sign swinging to the breeze reads "M. A. Nye," and we are led to IOWA LEAVES. 105 believe that he may be a brother of ''Bill Nye'' of Boomerang fame, but on entering the store and becoming acquainted with the genial proprietor we find that, although he bears a family resemblance to "Bill/' he is not related. Mr. Nye carries a splendid stock of groceries, runs a large bakery in con- nection, has long been a resident of Creston and has gradually risen to the top rung of the ladder; always courteous and pleasant to the public, he has made many friends in Creston and throughout southwest Iowa. Passing up Adams street on our way to the postofhce we notice another retail grocery on the left hand near Elm street. The sign reads "Ed W. Graham," and we enter and find a large stock of neatly arranged goods on the shelves and pleasant clerks ready to wait upon all customers. We are informed that Mr. Graham has long been a resident of the palace city, while his grocery is one of the old landmarks; he has also been chief of the fire department for a number of years, and has at all times been highly regarded by the citizens of this city for services rendered in that capacity. The fifth grocery store is located on Montgomery street, between Maple and Pine streets, in the Eagle block. This firm is well and favorably known both in the city and country, and bears the name of Irwin & Hawk. These gentlemen are among the rising young business men of this city, having had much experience in the grocery business. Their trade steadily increases as the years go by. They carry a full line of every- thing known to the retail grocery trade, and the store presents an air of neatness and will bear a personal inspection. The Pioneer Grocery of Evershed & Cartright, on North Pine street, is also worthy of notice; therefore, on our rounds we will irivc them a call. We find that Mr. C. Evershed has 106 IOWA LEAVES. been in the grocery business for many years and that Mr. Cart- right has also had years of experience in this line of trade. They are both agreeable and first-class business men, and carry a large stock of goods, supplying the wants of numerous customers both in the city and country. SCENE LOOKING WEST ON MONTGOMERY STREET. J. W. Waterman of south side fame is an old resident of the palace city, and has the honor of having the largest retail grocery store in that part of the city, having a fine loca- tion on Union street, between Elm and Maple. We find in his IOWA LEAVES. 107 Store a full and complete stock of groceries and queensware, from which Mr. Waterman supplies a large trade in the city and country. He employs several efficient clerks and one experienced bookkeeper, who are always ready to serve the public. There are numerous other retail grocery hrms in this city, all doing a good business, and Creston is certainly well supplied in this line of trade. DRY GOODS. Dry goods is the next class of business largely represented in the blue grass palace city, and we boast of having eight prosperous firms, active in supplying a large city and country trade. The first one which claims our attention is the hand- some store of Phil. A. Derr, corner of North Pine and East Montgomer}' streets. Mr. Derr carries a mammoth stock of goods, seemingly large enough to supply the wants of the whole blue grass regions; he has been in the dry goods business in Creston since it became an inncorporated village, and is well and favorably known throughout the whole of southwest Iowa, his trade extending far beyond the limits of his own county. The stock of goods carried by Mr. Derr is first-class and com- plete in every department and presided over by clerks of long experience. ^Ir. Derr employs, in all, about ten clerks and one efficient bookkeeper. When our readers come up to the blue grass palace of 1S91 it will pay them to look through Phil A. Derr's large dry goods emporium, where a cordial welcome is extended to all. The second dry goods store of interest in this city is that of Bennison Bros., on North Maple street. This firm occupies a neat two-story red brick building, which is tilled with as tine 108 IOWA LEAVES. a stock of dry goods as is carried in the blue grass regions, and uses an excellent system of the Barr cash carrier. The dry goods and notions are on the lower floor, while the carpets, curtains, oil cloths, rugs and mattings are above. Every department in the store is presided over by an experienced clerk. Bennison Bros, have been in the dry goods business here for a number of years, employ a large force and command a fine trade both in the city and country. They also run a large establishment in Omaha, Neb. Merchants' block on North Maple street contains another large dry goods store, which is a well-known one, the proprietors having grown up in the dry goods business in the blue grass palace city, it being no other than that of Cullen & Bullard, who, by courteous and liberal treatment of the piiblic, com- mand a very large trade in the city and surrounding country. They carry an excellent line of dry goods and notions, curtains and carpets, and employ a number of competent clerks and one good bookkeeper. The business of this firm has rapidly assumed a magnitude of importance second to none in the city. A little farther west on Maple street, in the elegant brick block owned by Mr. W. N. Kelley, one of Creston's most sub- stantial business men, is Kelley's cash bargain store. Mr. Kelley occupies the handsome corner room of this building with an excellent stock of dry goods, notions, carpets and general merchandise, and has been in the business here for years, under- standing fully the wants of the public. Mr. Kelley draws a large trade to our city from all parts of Union county and from large territories tributary to Creston. In the selection of help necessary to carry on a general store, Mr. Kelley employed none but those fully competent to wait upon the large trade which he has built up on strictly upright, honest, business IOWA LEAVES. 109 principles. The Kelley block is three stories in height, and one of the handsomest specimens of architecture in the blue grass palace city. On East Adams street, between Maple and Pine, in the Gibson-Griffi'i block, is a general store owned and operated by James Griffin, who is one of Creston's substantial merchants. This store contains a fine stock of dry goods and groceries and general merchandise, and Mr. Griffin^s trade extends over large territories of country aside from a large city trade. He is also largely identified with the interests of the blue grass palace city, and the handsome new block just finished on the corner of Adams and Pine streets was built by himself and Mr. John Gib- son, Mr. Griffin has also been an efficient member of the Creston School Board for a number of years. The stock of goods carried by Mr. J. Yeager on North Pine street, consisting of dry goods and clothing, is a great place for bargains, while Mr. Yeager himself is an old and esteemed citizen of Union county, having recently removed to Creston from Afton, where he carried on an extensive business for years, and still continues to draw a large share of patronage from the people of Union county. CLOTHING. The third class of business largely represented in Creston, which is necessary to supply a large trade in the city and surrounding territory, is that of clothing. There are eight prosperous concerns in the blue grass palace city, which carry clothing, hats, caps and gentlemen's furnishing goods. The first and largest is that of L. Friend, on North Pine street. Mr. Friend, the genial proprietor, came to Creston when the town was in its infancy, and has been very prosperous in this 110 IOWA LEAVES. line of business. Two years or more ago he built the elegant brick store which he now occupies, and which is one of the finest in southwest Iowa, lighted by electricity and heated by steam, while the interior finish is of hard oiled pine. This handsome store is filled with a full and complete stock of all the first- class goods known to the cloth- ing trade and each department is presided over by pleasant and agreeable clerks. Mr. Friend is well and favorably known over large territories of country sur- rounding Creston and commands a tine trade among the people of southwest Iowa. The second clothing firm is that of Derr & Smith, also lo- cated on North Pine street, between Adams and Montgomery. These gentlemen embarked in the clothing business about five years ago, and, by the excellent manner in which the}^ have waited upon the public, now command a large trade in the city and surrounding country. Their stock of goods is complete in all departments and they employ none but agreeable and com- petent clerks to wait upon customers. Derr & Smith are old residents of Creston, having been in the dry goods business pre- vious to entering the clothing interests of the blue grass palace city. The third clothing firm is pleasantly located on West Adams street, between Elm and Maple, and bears the name of the Chicago Clothing Company. This store is under the super- CLOTHING STORE OF L. FRIEND. IOWA LEAVES. Ill vision of Mr. J. L. Ogg, who is a gentleman of more than ordinary business abihty. Mr. Ogg came to the blue grass palace city about six years ago as manager of the Chicago Clothing Company, and since his sojourn here has given excel- lent satisfaction, both to the company he represents and the public at large in the blue grass regions of Iowa. The stock of goods carried by this firm is first-class in every depart- ment, and presided over by clerks of large experience in the clothing business. Mr. Ogg has made many friends in Creston and Union county and his store is always filled with a good class of customers. The fourth merchant dealing in this line is Col. O. Keefe, in the same block as the Chicago Clothing Company, who also has a splendid stock of clothing, hats, caps and gentlemen's furnishing goods and has a large city and country trade. L. Newman, on the corner of Maple and Adams streets, has a tine location, and commands a large share of patronage both in the city and country. Several dry goods merchants in the cit}' carry lines of clothing; therefore, this business is certainly well represented in the palace city. HARDW^ARE. The fourth interesting class of busmess which claims our attention in this city is that of hardware, and live large stores represent this interest. The first is the elegant store of R. S. Keith & Co., located on North Maple street, in Merchants' block, who carry a mammoth stock of stoves and hardware, wagon wood, bar iron and steel. Mr. Keith is one of Creston's most successful merchants and has a fine trade. His display of stoves and granite ironware on the gallery floor of the blue grass 112 IOWA LEAVES. palace of 1890 was tne wonder and admiration of all visitors to the palace. James Ferman & Son, who have recentl}' moved into ele- gant new quarters in the Mallory block, on Adams street, between Elm and Maple, which has just been completed, are at home to all their old friends, and also invite all strangers to call and look through their elegant stock of stoves, hardware, tin- ware and cutlery. Mr. Ferman is one of the most reliable business men of the palace city, while his son Charles is among the rising young business men of southwest Iowa. Chas. Edgerton, on North Pine street, shows a full and complete line of everything known to the hardware trade, and is a young man of exceptionally fine business ability; he is also president of the Iowa State Savings Bank of this city. J. H. Patt, on West Adams street, occupies commodious quarters in the Opera House block, which he owns, with as tine a stock of hardware as is carried in the blue grass resfions. Mr. Patt deals also in dump scrapers and agricultural imple- ments, is one of the leading merchants of southwest Iowa and one of Creston's most esteemed citizens. A. R. Fuller carries a fine stock of hardware on North Pine street in connection with a large grocery store and com- mands a fine trade. All of the above firms are composed of energetic business men, and all have done much toward the upbuilding of the blue grass palace city. DRUGS. The retail drug business is largely representee] by seven different elegant places of business. First is the Summit drug store in Summit House block, of which J. W. Bagly has been IOWA LEAVLS. 113 proprietor for a number of years; it has always given exeel- lent satisfaction to the pubHc, while the pharmacy lias been under the supervision of Mr. Bagly himself, who has always taken exceeding pains to please all his patrons in this depart- ment. Mr. Bagly has lately purchased the Carpenter block, which he expects to occupy in the near future with an excel- lent stock of new drugs. The second is the drug store of A. B. Henry, on the corner of Pine and Adams streets. Mr. Henry occupies handsome quarters in the corner room of the elegant new building under the Ewing hotel, where he carries an elaborate stock of drugs and fancy articles, having recently moved from the south side of the city, where he was successful in the same business for several years. Mr. Henry looks after the pharmacy depart- ment with great skill and is now situated to supply the wants of both north and south side residents. The next drug store of interest in the palace city is that of George Leith, on North Maple street, in the Kelley block. Mr. Leith is one of Creston's successful young merchants, and carries a large stock of drugs and all goods connected with the trade, while the clerks employed are gentlemanly and obliging, and the pharmacy is looked after with care bv Mr. Leith himself. On East Montgomery street, in the Eagle block, is the drug store of E. A. Aldrich, which is one of the best in the city, filled with an excellent line of drugs and other goods carried by the trade. The pharmacy is first-class in every particular and presided over by competent prescription clerks. Mr. Aldrich has been in the drug business in Creston for a number of years, and is one of the leading merchants of the palace city. 114 JOWA LEAVES. James Schedeker, on North Pine street, has a cosy store and an excellent stock of drugs from which to suDoly the wants of his numerous customers. BOOTS AND SHOES. The boot and shoe business is carried on very extensively in the blue grass palace city, and six large stores carry boots and shoes exclusively. First is the tirm of A. E. Keith & Son, on Adams street, between Elm and Maple, which carries a mammoth stock of all goods connected with this line of business, its trade extending over all portions of the citv and country surroundino^ Creston. The second is the tirm of Winhafer & Fields, in the Kelley block on North Maple street, which also carries a line line of boots, shoes, slippers, etc. Mr. Winhafer was connected with the boot and shoe business a number of years previous to his entering business for himself tive 3-ears ago, as was also Mr. Fields. The third is the boot and shoe tirm of Noble & McClure, on North Maple street, which carries a spendid stock of goods, and low prices have won them a large trade in Creston and Union county. The boot and shoe store of C. Eckerson, corner of North Pine and Montgomer}- streets, in the Pine street Opera House block, is another well-stocked store, and carries nothing but tirst- class goods. Mr. Eckerson has been identified with the interests of the blue grass palace city a number of years, and commands a fine trade both in the city and in Union county. Thomas McGrath has a neat and cosy store on North Pine street, and is certainly deserving of the large patronage he receives. Courteous and liberal in all his dealinirs with the IOWA LEAVES. 115 public have been the means of winning him a large trade in Creston and the surrounding country. Mr. McGrath is largely interested in the palace city and contemplates the erection of a handsome brick block during the coming season. FURNITURE. In all parts of the world and in all cities the manufacture and sale of furniture are among the leading enterprises; there- fore, this interest is one of the leading lines of business in this city. First is the elegant store of Mackemer Bros., on North Maple street in Merchants' block, which occupies two floors with an excellent quantity and quality of goods. J. T. Horton, on North Maple street, also carries a full and complete stock of furniture, and is a pleasant and liberal gentle- man who understands fully the wants of his customers, and one of the successful merchants in the blue grass palace city. His trade extends over the entire city and over large territories of country surrounding Creston, and he is certainly deserving of the large share of patronage he receives. The new firm of Elmer Sterner & Company occupies hand- some quarters in the Summit House block, two doors west of the postoffice, with an elegant stock of furniture, and invites the citizens of Creston and Union county to carefully inspect the store. The gentlemen who compose this tirm grew from boyhood in the palace city, and have the full confidence and esteem of all their numerous friends in Creston and Union county. We predict for them a prosperous future REAL ESTATE AND INSURANCE. While real estate is not exactly on the boom in Creston, sales are always steady the year round, and many large deals 116 IOWA LEAVES. were made in this line during the past year. Among the prominent real estate and insurance agents in the blue grass palace city may be mentioned the name of W. F. Patt,who has been in the real estate business in this city for a number of years, and is one of Creston's most energetic business men, always on the alert for something advantageous to his city and county. Mr. Patt represents a large business in this line, and is alwa3''s ready to show property and tell of Creston's many advantages, and is now offering for thirty da3's i,ooo lots for sale on easy payments and good time The next popular real estate agent is A. H. Spurr, one of Creston's rising young business men, who occupies elegant rooms in the new Mallory block, on Adams street, between Elm and Maple. Mr. Spurr was the leading photographer of south- west Iowa for a number of years, but sold out his business about two years ago and embarked in real estate, in which he has been very successful, having made some very large sales of city and country property during the past year. J. L. Haverich, in Devoe's brick block, is another promi- nent real estate agent who makes numerous sales of city and country property, and is a pleasant and agreeable gentleman. J.B. Kirch, in Merchants' block on North ]Maple street, is one of Creston's successful real estate dealers, and has made during the past year many sales of farm and cit}' property. Willet & Hitchcock, in the Eagle block, are engaged in the real estate business, and are favorably known in Creston and Union county, possessing the confidence and esteem of all who know them. They represent both city and farm property. I. E. Rogers represents a large amount of city and farm property in Union county and is a gentleman of unusual busi- ness ability. IOWA LEAVES. 117 The Western Land Company, with H. Farley as its presi- dent and S. A. Eckerson as its secretary and treasurer, repre- sent thousands of acres of improved lands in the blue grass regions of Iowa, and millions of acres of improved and wild lands in the west, and handle city property on the most favorable time payments. The Creston Abstract Company, with E. S. Ketcham as manager, make a specialty of selling, exchanging and renting all kinds of real property. The members of this company have been in the business for years and are well versed therein. LUMBER AND COAL The lumber interests of Creston are largely represented by three well-equipped yards, which are as follows: C. S. Rex, on the corner of Montgomery and North Oak streets, has a large lumber yard, and carries coal and kindling wood in connection. Mr. Rex has built up a large trade in the city of Creston and in large territories of country tributary, and is an enterpris- ing business man. Courteous and liberal treatment of the pub- lic has been the means of making him many friends in the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa. The Gen. Palmer Lumber Company of Red Oak is repre- sented in this city by I. W. Richardson, its manager, who is a gentleman of large experience in the lumber business, being thoroughly posted in every detail connected with it. This com- pany handles also large quantities of coal and is located on West Adams street. C. S. Millard conducts a large lumber yard on Oak and Montgomery streets, and handles coal in connection; he is numbered among Creston's enterprising merchants, and is also a member of the Creston school board. 118 IOWA LEAVEi:\ The coal interest is largely represented in the palace city, there being numerous other firms handling coal aside from the lumber merchants. The first is that of I. R. Hogaboom, on North Pine street, who handles an excellent stock of farm imple- ments, and coal in connection. Mr. Hogaboom is one of Cres- ton's best citizens and successful merchants, having been in this line of business here for years, and commands a large trade both in the city and countr}'. I. Worthington & Co., in East Creston, handle large quan- tities of coal and wood, and are proprietors of a large elevator near the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy tracks in that part of the city. Mr. R. R. Palmer is the successful manager of this firm, who, since his location in Creston, has built up a large trade. Mr. Palmer is a business man of rare ability and gives excellent satisfaction to all customers who trade with him. E. C. Lucas deals extensively in farm implements and coal on North Pine street and receives a large patronage from the citizens of Creston and Union county. F, J. Ta} lor, in West Creston, dealer in grain and seeds, handles large quantities of coal in connection, and owns the largest elevator in the city, near the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy tracks. Mr. Taylor has been closely identified with the interests of the blue grass palace city for a number of years and has done much toward the upbuilding of the same. His name is as familiar as a household word throughout the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa, being also well and favorably known throughout the states of Illinois, Minnesota, Nebraska, Kansas and Missouri, and he was at one time the heaviest grain-shipper over the Illinois Central railroad at Chebanse, 111. ; subsequently he was one of the largest shippers on the main line of the ''Q."" road at Emerson, in Mills county, Iowa, (one of the very richest IOWA LEAVES. 119 counties in the blue grass regions), from which he shipped in one year ..600 cars of corn. In .883 he bu.lt a large ele- K. J. TAYLOR. vator in the palace city. Mr. Taylor has served four successive lerms of office as mayor of Creston, but left no n,arks upon ,ts 120 IOWA LEAVES. history save those of honest, upright, active service. The affairs of the palace city were never in better condition than during his administration, nor have they been since. In the year 1889 Mr. Taylor organized the great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie, first-class in every department, which he has con- ducted for the past two years in a strictly honest and gentle- manly manner; during his absence his coal, grain and seed busi- ness has been carefully looked after by Mr. Chas. Snyder, who has been in Mr. Taylor's employ since 1882 and is one of the leading young business men of the palace city. Mr. Taylor's record as a first-class business man has been clearly demonstrated in the organization of this show, which has at all times and in all places been conducted on thorough, honest, business principles. In the selection of artists he has been very careful in securing the best moral talent the country affords; in fact, all his numerous attractions have been selected with taste and skill, particularly avoiding anything pertaining to an inferior class. The great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie is now in winter quarters at Mr. Taylor's elegant home in the palace city, and in looking through the stable we tind that his ring stock is unsurpassed in the United States. We have the pleasure of looking upon the handsomest pure-blooded white Arabian horse 3'et brought to the United States, the blood of which animal has always been sacred to the Arab race. This horse has been beautifully trained and is as graceful as a fairy. Among the leading attractions in the carnivora are two of the finest and largest camels in the world. Samson, the towering giant of the Arabian desert, is a noble-looking animal. It may be doubted if the people in the west ever overcome the impression made upon them by the tirst view of a camel equipped and loaded for the desert. Custom al to other IOWA LEAVES. 121 novelties, affects this feeling, but little; people wherever they may be, will stop and wait the passing of the stately brute. The charm is not in the tigure, which not even love can make beauti- ful, nor in the movement, the noiseless stepping or the broad carreer. As is the kindness of the sea to a ship, so is that of the desert to a camel. It clothes him with all its mysteries, in such a manner, too, that while we are looking at him we are thinking of them; therein is the wonder. Its color and height, its breadth of foot, its bulk of body, not fat, but overlaid with muscle; its long slender neck of swan-like curvature; the head, wide between the e3es and tapering to a muzzle whicii a lady's bracelet might almost clasp; its step long and elastic, tread sure and soundless — all certify its true Syrian blood l-'2 IOWA LEAVES. A bold and tierce-looking lion, tlie most fearless of living creatures, paces back and forth in his cage, and longs for his home in the African forest. The natives of that country, believ- ing that the souls of their dead chiefs enter the bodies of these animals, into which they also have the power when living qf transforming themselves at will, never kill them, and when meeting these animals salute them by clapping their hands, a courtesy which his highness frequentl}' returns by making a meal of them. The elephant has always been considered one of the ROMEO. BEAUTY. greatest of living curiosities, and everybody goes to the show, of course, to see the "elephant"; therefore, a show without this "beautifur' creature would be as nothing to the average American. Mr. Taylor has been fortunate in securing one of the best that money could buy, and really he is a hand- some creature, and well trained to perform all tricks known to the elephant family. There are many other attractions connected with Mr. Taylor's show, but we have neither the time nor space to IOWA LEAVEa. 123 describe them in this work, and will add in conclusion that he has traveled over large territories of country during the past two years, and the public, the press, the traveling men, the rail- road men and, in fact, everybody confirms the report that F. J. Taylor's great American Circus, Museum and Menagerie is the cleanest and best show traveling in the United States. This show, which opens out for the coming season in the palace city about April 23 with the finest class of attractions in the world, belongs to the long list of leading institutions in the blue grass regions of southwest Iowa. MANUFACTORIES. W. H. Bradford, the genial proprietor of the Creston roller mills, controls the largest manufacturing establishment in the palace city, the capacity of which is eighty barrels per day, and has a full roller system and all the new and improved machiner}' methods and processes for manufacturing the finest grades of flour; the property is worth $30,000. Mr. Bradford is one of Creston's enterprising merchants, and has always con- tributed liberall}' of his means to all public undertakings by which the city has been benefited. Beggs Bros., wholesale manufacturers of wagons, transfer, express, truck and all other kinds of business wagons, carriages, buggies and road-carts, have one of the most successful manu- facturing industries in southwest Iowa, and use all the im- proved machinery necessary in carrying on a flrst-class estab- lishment. Their capacit}* aside from carriage construction is 300 wagons a year, which are shipped to all parts of the country. The following cut represents a handsome farm wagon made by Beggs Bros., which for durability cannot be excelled by any other manufacturer of farm wagons in the state. This 124 IOWA LEAVES. lirrn came to the palace city about two 3'ears ago, and have been very successful in this line of business; they employ a large force and command a fine trade in Creston and southwest Iowa. L. D. McClintock, on East Montgomery street, is a tine workman of long experience in the construction of carriages, wagons and road-carts, and manufactures a good, substantial class of goods. A large sasn factory on North Elm street, owned and operated by J. W. Bartlett, is quite an industry in the palace city and turns out sashes, doors, blinds and the other kinds of work connected with such a factory. MISCELLANEOUS. The firm of Swan & Becker, dealers exclusively in butter and eggs, are conveniently located in West Creston, near the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy railroad, and are well worthy of notice, being large buyers, packers and shippers of one of the greatest and most profitable industries in the blue grass regions. Col. Swan, the proprietor, is an old and highly IO\VA LEAVES. ^25 esteemed citizen of the blue grass palace city, having been one of the proprietors of the Summitt House for many years pre- vious to entering this business. The trade of this firm reaches over the whole of southern Iowa, while large quantities of butter and eo-gs are shipped to southern and eastern markets. The Creston Gas and Electric Light works are located in East Creston, while the office of the manager, Mr. O. Q. Holman, who also deals largely in coal, drain tile and sewer pipe, is located on North Elm street. ^Nlr. Holman is one of the lead- ing business men of the city, having but recently completed the ha'ndsome building which he now occupies. The firm of Burket Bros., on the corner of Maple and Montgomery streets, dealers in artists' supplies and moldings, also manuf ucturers of picture frames and window shades, funeral directors and embalmers, are the leaders in these lines in the palace city. Both of these gentlemen are well and favora- bh-' known in Creston and Union county, being greatly in- terested in the growth of the palace city, and are building up a fine trade in the city and country surrounding Creston. jewelkrs. There are three first-class jewelry stores in the blue grass palace city, and the first is that of J. B. Schanubur, on North Pine street, who carries an elegant stock of goods, and com- mands a fine trade in Creston and Union county. S A Bowers, on North Maple street, is prepared to serve the public from an excellent line of jewelry and watches, such as is only carried bv a first-class firm. Mr. Bowers has been in the jewelry business in Creston for a number of years and commands a fine share of trade in the city and country. W. A. Woodward, dealer in musical instruments and carrying a full 126 IOWA LEAVES. Stock of pianos and organs, occupies handsome quarters with Mr. Bowers. G. H. Daniels, on Adams street, between Elm and Maple carries an excellent stock of jewelry and watches ; he is also HIGH SCHOOL. watch inspector for the Chicago, Burlington & Quincy rail- road company at this place. There are numerous other interesting and protitabte classes of business represented in the palace cit}-, but time and space IOWA LEAVES. l-^l forbid the giving of every advantage possessed by Creston, the county seat of Union county and metropoHs of southwest Iowa. We will, therefore, hurry on with a brief description of her schools and churches. The most pretentious school building which has been erected in this city is that of the high school on the corner of Elm and INIills streets, the site of the old high school build- ing. The new structure combines features of various styles of architecture, but the characteristic of the Norman predomi- nates. The walls are of Kansas City pressed brick, resting on a stone foundation, with limestone trimmings. The ground plan is about 80x80 feet. The building is furnished with the Ruttan system of heating and ventilating and Smead's dry closet system. The building contains the most desirable features found in similar structures by a committee of the Creston school board, which visited a number of cities for the purpose of arranofins: the most commendable plans. The result of their work is satisfactory to all; cost, $24,000. Creston's churches are a source of pride to its people, who realize that without their influence there can be no good, and the substan- tial growth in any of the lines of commendable progress. First is the new Catholic church on the south side, of Gothic struct- ure, and one of the handsomest in the west; it is built of brick with limestone trimmings, and cost, including the ST. MALACHV S CHURCH. 128 IOWA LEAVES. grounas, about $36,000. The congregation of St. Malacliy's numbers about 175 families, who reside in and about Creston. The Very Rev. Stephen Lyons, O. S. B., of St. Vincent's Abbey, Pennsylvania, has charge of the Creston parish. Young, able, energetic and of broad education, he has won the hearts of all his people. The new Congregational church, corner Montgomery and Division streets, is a handsome Gothic editice and cost with the grounds about $17,000. It has four entrances and the interior is splendidly arranged for the various needs of the cono^re