A^ y 'if^^- <. '^0^ 'oK '^0^ "aV .-^'^ .-' ^"-^^^ H o ?t, *««i.'^4wi>i'; 3« xTiitiiit. i'iti*;K i« cjKi^'i's. WS^ If TO 27 VAHDEW/^TEf^ St ^^^/ i'jiside l.i\)rai\, Pocke^HoTuor^Issnein^r' -weekly. B.y Subscriolion $36 per annum, id 1884, by Qaorga Munro— Entered at the Post Office at New York at second olass rates.— Nov. 17, 1 A C'r'< ALICE GRAND DUCHESSOF HESSE PRINCESS GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH AND LETTERS NEW YORK: GEORGE MUNKO, PUBLISHER, 17 TO 87 Vandewater Street. > >\ ^\^ DEDICATED TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE AND TO THEIR GRAND DUCAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCESSES VICTORIA, ELIZABETH, IRl&NE, ALIX OF HESSE AND BY RHINE TBS LIBRARY! •7 CONGRESS I NH^SHINGTON I PEEF ACE. The great affection with which, my dear Sister has ever been regarded in this country, and tlie universal feeling of sympathy shown at the time of her death, lead me to hope that the publication of this volume miy not be unwelcome, containing as it does extracts from her Letters to my Mother, together with aTbrief record of her married life. The short Memoir here translated from the German, with which the letters are interwoven, was written, as will be seen at a glance, not as presenting anything like a complete picture of my Sister's char- acter and opinions, but merely as a narrative of such of the incidents of her life as were necessary to illustrate and explain the letters themselves. In these days, when the custom has become general of publishing biographies of all persons of note or distinction, it was thought ad- visable, in order that a true picture might be given of my Sister, that a short sketch of her life should be prepared by some one who was personally known to her, and who appreciated the many beautiful features of her character. The choice fell upon a clergyman at Darmstadt, Dr. Sell. It would have been premature and out of place to attempt any- thing like a complete picture of a character so many-sided, or of my Sister's opinions on the aftairs of Europe, in which she took the deepest interest, and on which she formed opinions remarkable for breadth and sagacity of view. The domestic side of her nature might alone for the present be freely dealt with; and to help Dr. Sell in delineating this, my Mother selected for his guidance the extracts from my Sister's letters to her which appear in the present volume. There was no thought at first of making these extracts public, but they were found to be so beautiful, and to be so true, an expression of what my Sister really was, that, in compliance with the request of the Grand J)uke her husband, they were allowed to be translated and published, so that her subjects might see in them how great reason they had to love her whom they had lost. The letters in their original form are here given to the English public, and I am sure that all who read them wUl feel thankful to my Mother for thus granting them a closer insight into my dear Sister's beautiful and unselfish life. They will see in them also, with satisfaction, how devoted she was to the land of her birth — how her heart ever turned to it with rever- erice and affection as the country which had done and was doing for Liberty and the advancement of mankind more than any other couu- IT PKEFACE. try in the world. How deep was her feeling in this respect was tes- tified by a request, which she made to her husband in anticipation of her death, that an English flag might be laid upon her cofiin; ac- companying the wish with a modest expression of a hope, that no one in the land of her adoption could take umbrage at her desire to be borne to her rest with the old English colors above her. - In any case 1 feel confident that the perusal of these letters must deepen the love and admiration which has always been felt for my beloved Sister in this country, where she ever thanked God that her childhood and youth had been tended with a wise love, that had foste^'ed and developed all those qualities and tastes which she most valued and strove to cultivate in her later years. 1 had written these words, when another beloved member of our family, whose name often recurs in my Bister's letters, was suddenly taken from us, and from our country. Writing of my dear Brother to my Mother (February 1, 1868), she said, "May God spare that young bright and gifted life to be a comfort to you for many a year to come!" That life, which then hung trembling in the balance, was mercifully spared, not indeed for many a year, but long enough to make my Brother more beloved by his family and friends, and to enable him to give to his country some token of the good gifts with whicn he was endowed. As he was the last of us to see my dear Sister in life, so he has been the first to follow her into the Silent Land. ^ HELENA. Cumberland Lodge : 15th April, 1884. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1843-1862. " I ever look back to my childhood and girlhood as the happiest time of my life." (13" The gay, bright girl seemed all at once tp have changed into the thoughtful woman, " It was the very intimate intercourse with the sorrowing Queen at that time which called forth in Princess Alice that keen interest and understanding in politics for which she was afterward so dis- tinguished. She also gained at this time that practical knowledge •for organizing, and the desire for constant occupation, which in her public as well as in her private life became part of herself. The Princess suddenly developed into a wise far-seeing woman, living only for others, and beloved and respected by the highest as well as by the lowest. " * It was at this time that the Times said of the Princess: " It is im- possible to speak too highly of the strength of mind and self-sacri- fice shown by Princess Alice during these dreadful days. Her Royal Highness has certainly understood that it was her duty to be the help and support of her mother in her great sorrow, and it was in a great measure due to her that the Queen has been able to bear with such wonderful resignation the irreparable loss that so suddenly and terribly befell her. ' ' The young " bridegroom " did not remain absent in those days, but arrived without delay. A touching trait is told by the same near relation of the Princess whose memorandum has just been quoted. As she was placing wreaths and flowers over the dear dead Prince, and both knelt down near him, she said in a heartrending voice, " Oh! dear Molly, let us pray to God to give lis back dear Papa!" The letters published in this volume will show tJiat the feeling of that irreparable loss never left her through life, and our impression cannot be a false one, that it was this loss which brought out the deep earnestness of her character, and v, hich made her feel that life was no light thing, but a time of probation to be spent in earnest •work and conscientious fulfillment of duty. She felt it to be a sacred duty to foster the recollections of her girl- iood, and to carry out the principles with which her father had im- bued her, whether in the cultivation of art and science, the encour- agement of art manufactures, of agriculture and general education, in the tasteful and practical arrangement of her own house, in bet- tering the condition of the lower and working classes by improving their homes and inculcating principles of health, economy, and do- mestic management. In short, in every way open to her, did the Princess try to walk in her father's footsteps, and so to do honor to bis memory. It was but natural that during the first weeks of her great sorrow, and of her many new duties, the thought of her own future should bave been put into the background. The preparations for her mar- liage, however, as well as for her household, were continued, accord- ing to the known intentions of the Prince Consort. The marriage * Memorandum by the Grand Duchess of Baden. 14 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. was solemnized at Osborne on the 1st of July at one o'clock. The Archbishop of York performed the ceremony in the absence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was prevented by illness from being present. Besides her sorrowing mother, the Crown Prince of Prussia, all her brothers and sisters, the parents and brothers and sister of the bridegroom, and a number of princely relations were present. The Duke of Saxe Coburg Gotha, in the place of her father, led the bride to the altar, whilst the bridegroom was accompanied by liis brother. Prince Henry. At Ihe conclusion of the ceremony, the Queen with- drew to her room. The guests left the Isle of Wight in the after noon, whilst the newly-married pair went with a small suite to St. Clare, near Ryde (belonging to Colonel and Lady Catherine Har- court), where they remained three days. On the 9th of July Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse left Eng- land, accompanied by the fervent prayers and good wishes of a de- voted people, who never forgot what their Princess had been to them in their hour of trouble. What they felt found apt expression in the following sonnet^ which appeared in Puncli at the time. Dear to us all by those calm earnest eyes, And early thought upon that fair young brow ; Dearer for that where grief was heaviest, thou Wert sunshine, till He passed where suns shall rise And set no more ; thou, in affection wise And strong, wert strength to Her who even but now In the soft accents of thy bridal vow Heard music of her own heart's memories. « Too full of love to own a thought of pride Is now thy gentle bosom; so 'tis best: Yet noble is thy choice, O English bride ! And England hails the bridegroom and the guest A friend — a friend well loved by him who died. He blessed your troth : your wedlock shall be blessed. m HER NEW HOME. 1863—1865. " Our life is a very happy one. I have nothing on earth to wish for. . . . ^ To be able to make a bright and comfortable home for my dear husband is my constant aim." (14^^ Feb.-lst March, 1864.) 1862. Meanwhile sorrow had fallen on the Grand Ducal family of Hesse also. Some weeks before the Princess's marriage (May 25) the Grand Duchess of Hesse (Princess of Bavaria) had died — a woman beloved for her amiable and generous qualities, deeply re- gretted by her husband, the Grand Duke Louis HI., and mouroed by all who knew her, high as well as low. Nevertheless, prepara- tions had been made to give a brilliant reception to the newly -married pair. The whole countrj' looked forward with anxiety to the arrival of the young Princess, of whom so much had been heard, and who^ ALICE, GEAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 15 though English, was known to have a thoroughly Bympathetic feeling for Germany. The Prince and Princess made a short stay at Brussels, and arrived at Bingen, on the Hessian frontier, on the 13lh of July. A special train took them on to Mayence, where the first oflScial reception took place. The Rhine was crossed in a gayly-decorated steamer, and at the last station hefore Darmstadt the Grand Duke and all the family received the Prince and Princess and accompanied them to Darmstadt. At half-past four in the afternoon the young man-ied couple made their state entry into the town through streets decorated with triumphal arches, flags, and flowers, amidst the peals of' bells and the enthusi- astic cheers of the assembled crowds, receiving and acknowledging the many marks of respect and affection with which they were greeted. A mounted guard of honor headed the procession. The schools, the difi;erent guilds, the choral societies, the Turnvereine (gymnastic societies), and thousands of town and country folk lined the streets through which the Prince and Princess passed. The impression produced upon everyone by the young Princess's grace and sweet maidenly beauty, and bright, winning, yet truly dig- nified, manner, was very great, and inspired the fairest hopes of what she would prove in her new hoine. What her own first im- pressions of that home were are given in the letters which follow. The circumstances of her new life were certainly very different from those to which she had been accustomed as an English Princess. What she may have felt more keenly, as time went on, in the small but often-recurring differences between English and German life, did not oppress her at first. She had determined to make herself at home in her husband's country, and she very soon contrived to stamp on every room in her house the impress of her fine taste. That house was of the most unpretending character, situated in a quiet quarter of the town, near the palace of Prince and Princess Charles of Hesse. They had few servants besides those who came with them from England. A short visit to her uncle at Coburg, a lengthened stay at Auer- bach — wliere the Prince and Piincess had a small country-house lent them by the Grand Duke — and excursions to Heidelberg and Carlsruhe, occupied the summer months. In September they went to Rheinhardtsbrunn in Thuriugia to meet the Queen, and it was then settled that they should spend the winter and spring in Eng- land with Her Majesty. The house the Prince and Princess were living in at Darmstadt was so small, that plans had at once to be made for a new palace of their own. On the 10th of November they left Darmstadt, traveling by Cob- lenz and Cologne to Antwerp. Here the Queen's yacht Victoria and Albert awaited them, and brought them to England, where they met with a most hearty reception from all classes. Royal Yacht : July 9. Beloved Mamma, — Before leaving the yacht 1 must send you a few lines to wish you once more good-by, and to thank you agaia and again for all your kindness to us. 16 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OE HESSE. My heart was very full when I took leave of you and all the dear ones at home; 1 had not the courage to say a word — but your lov- ing heart understands what 1 felt. Darmstadt : July 13. Yesterday, after we reached Bingen, all the Hessian .officers of state received us. At every station we received fresh people, and had to speak to them. At Mayence also the beautiful Austrian band played whilst we waited, in pouring rain, which only ceased as we reached Darmstadt. The station before, the Grand Duke, Prince and Princess Charles with their children, Prince Alexander and his wife, received us — all most kind and cordial. At the station we were again received; the whole town so prettily decked out; the Burger [Burgesses Escort] rode near our carriage; countless young ladies in white, and all so kind, so loyal : in all the speeches kind and touching allusions were made to you, and to our deep grief. I believe the people never gave so hearty a welcome. We two drove together through the town; incessant cheering and showering of flowers. We got out at Prince and Princess Charles's house, where the whole family was assembled. We then went to our rooms, which are very small, but so prettily arranged, with such perfect taste, all by my own dear Louis; they look quite English. We then drove to Bessungen for dinner ewfamille. . . . We were listening to twelve Sangervereine (Choral Unions) sing- ing together yesterday evening — two hundred people; it was most beautiful, but in pouring rain. Some came upstairs dripping ta speak to us. The Grand Duke gave me a tine diamond bracelet he and his wife had ordered for me, and showed me all over his rooms. To-morrow we receive the Standesherren [Princes and Counts] and the gentlemen of both Houses. J^ thoughts, rather our thoughts, are constantly with you, 'be- loved Mamma. Please give my love to all at home; it is impossible to write to them all. July 16. ... It is extremely hot here. The last two days we rode out at eight in the morning in the wood, where the air is very pleasant, near the ground where the troops are drilled On Monday ^e looked on, and the soldiers were so much flattered. At half past one on Monday we received the gentlemen of the Upper House, then the Lower House, then the Flugel-adjutanten [aides-de-camp], then the Stadtvorstand [Town Council], then about seventy officers, then a deputaion of the English here. All these people 1 had to speak to en grancle toilette, and at lour we drove to a large dinner at the Schloss. The Grand Duke led me, and 1 always sit near him. Yesterday at three the whole family drove to Seeheim, a lovely place in the mountains, to dinner with the Grand Duke. In the two villages we passed, flowers were showered upon us, and the Pfarrer [clergyman] made a speech. I am really deeply touched by ihe kindness and enthusiasm shown. by the people, which is said to be quite unusual. They wait near the house to see us, and cheer constantly — even the soldiers. We then drove to tea, which is always at eight, to Jugenheim to ALICE, GUAi^D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 1? Prince Alexander, whose birthday it was, and did not gei home till ten. The whole family are very amiable toward me, and Prince Alex- ander is most clever and amusing. Darling Louis is very grateful for your kind messages. We talk and think of you often, and then my heai't grows very heavy. Away from home 1 cannot believe that beloved Papa is not there; all is so associated with him. July 19. Beloved Mamma, — Many thanks for your last kind letter, and all the news from home; dear Baby [Princess Beatrice] is the only one you have mentioned nothing of, and 1 think of her so often. Some people are coming to us at one, and then the whole Mini- sterium [Administration]. It is really so difficult to find something to say to all these people, and they stand there waiting to be spoken to. Yesterday we received a deputation from Giessen, with a very pretty dressing-case they brought us as a present. On Thursday we went incognito with Prince Alexander and his wife to Frankfurt. The town is decked out most beautifully, and countless Schiitzen [riflemen] are walking about in their dress. We dined at the Palais and then sat in the balcony. I have just taken leave of dear Lady Churchill and General Sey- mour.* They have made themselves most popular here, and the people have been very evil to them. Louis and I have begun reading Westward Ho together. The Grand Duke went all the way to Kranichstein for me the other day, and walked about till he was quite hot. He has forbid- den my visiting the other places until his retm-n, as he wishes to lead me about there himself. I do not see very much of the other relations save at meals ; and, having our o"\vn carriages, we two drive together mostly alone. We have tea usually out of doors in some pretty spot we drive to. These lines will find you in Windsor. 1 went out this morning and tried to find some of those pretty wreaths to send you, but could get none. Please put one in St. George's f from me. It is the first time you go to that hallowed spot without me; but in thought and prayer 1 am with you. May God strengthen and soothe j^ou, be- loved Mamma, and may you still live to find some ray of sunshine on your solitarj'- path, caused by the love and virtue of his children, trying, however faintly, to follow his glorious example! I do strive earnestly and cheerfully to do my duty in my new life, and to do all that is right, which is but doing what dear Papa would have wished. July 30. Thousand thanks for your dear long letter of the 18th just re- ceived. How well dol understand your feelings! 1 was so sad myself yesterday, and had such intense longing after a look, a word from beloved Papa! 1 could bear it no longer. Yet lioio much * Afterward Marquis of Hertford, who died on the 25th of January, 1884. + St. Gteorge's Chapel, Windsor, where the Prince Consort rested until re- moved to the Mausoleum at Frogmore. 18 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. worse is it not for you ! You know, tliough, dear Mamma, Tie is watching over you, waiting for you. The thought of the future is the one sustaining, encouraging point for all. " They who sow in tears shall reap in joy;" and great joy will be yours hereafter, dear Mamma, if you continue following that bright example. . . . We usually ^et up about a quarter or lialf past seven, and take some coffee at eight. Then we either go out till ten or remain at home, and till twelve 1 write and arrange what I have to do. ' At one, when we return from breakfast, we usually read together. I have still a great many people to see, and they usually come at two. At four is dinner, and at half past five We are -usually back here, and occupy ourselves till six or seven, then drive out somewhere for tea at eight, walk about and return at a quarter or half -past ten. We do not waste our time, 1 assure you, and Louis has a good deal to do at this moment. Mr. Theed's bust of dear Papa must be veiy lovely. 1 am curious to hear what you tliink of Marochetti's.* It will be very sad for you to see. A fortnight already 1 am here, and away from my dear home three weeks! How much I shall have to tell j^ou when we meet. My own dear Mamma, 1 do love you so much! You know, though silent, my love and devotion to you is deep and true. If 1 could re- linquish part of my present happiness to restore to you some of yours, with a full heart would 1 do it; but God's will be done! God sustain my precious mother! is the hourly prayer of her loving and sympathizing child. July 24. . , . You tell me to speak to you of my happiness— our hap- piness. You will understand the feeling which made me silent toward you, my own dear bereaved Mother, on that point ; but you are unselfish and loving and can enter into my happiness, though I could never have been the first to tell you how intense it is, when it must draw the painful contrast between your past and present ex- istence. If I say 1 love my dear husband, that is scarcely enough — it is a love and esteem which increases daily, hoxirly; which h DUCHESS OF HESSE. ful. We went all over tlie house and walked about in the grounds. We walked to dear Papa's little garden, and 1 picked two flowers there for you, wliich 1 inclose. Every spot brought up the remembrance of something dear Papa had told us of his childhood; it made me so sad, I can't tell you. TJncle Ernest was also sad, but so kind and affectionate, and they both seemed so pleased at our having come. Everything about dear Papa's illness, and then of the sad end, 1 had to tell. 1 lived the whole dreadful time over again, and won- der, whilst 1 speak of it, that we ever lived through it. A.t nine o'clock Church service was in the pretty little chapel. Holzei read, and Superintendent Meyer preached a most beautiful sermon, the text being where our Saviour told His disciples they must become as a little child to enter into the kingdom of heaven. He spoke with his usual fervor, and it was most impressive. 1 saw him afterwaii'd, and he inquired very much after you. We are going after breakfast to the I'estung, and then Louis and 1 are going to see the dear Baron [Stockmar]. Darmstadt : August 6. Dear beloved Mamma, — Can you give me no ray of hope that you in some way, bodily or mentally, feel better? It makes my heart ache bitterly, to hear those sad accounts you give of yourself, though 1 well know what for you life without Mm must be ! God comfort you ! is my constant prayer. We saw the dear old Baron for some time. The meeting was sad on both sides ; he was very kind, but so desponding as to every- thing ! In England and abroad he looks at everything in a black lisrht, and was full of complaints about himself. He asked much after you, and is anxious to see you again. August 9. Next Monday we are going to Auerbach, to live there for a little time. It lies in the Bergstrasse, and is very healthy. The Grand Duke allows us to inhabit one of the houses. August 16. .... How 1 long to read what Mr. Helps has written about Papa! What can it be but beautiful and elevating, if he has rightly entered into the spirit of that pure and noble being? * Oh, Mamma ! the longing I sometimes have for dear Papa surpasses all bounds. In thought he is ever present and near me; still we are but mortals, and as such at times long for him also. Dear, good Papa! Take courage, dear Mamma, and feel strong in the thought that you require all your moral and physical strength to continue the journey which brings you daily nearer to Home and to Him ! I know how weary you feel, how you long to rest your head on his dear shoulder^ to have him to soothe your aching heart. You will find this rest again, and hoAv blessed will it not be ! Bear patiently and courageously your heavy burden, and it^will lighten imperceptibly as you near him, and God's love and mercy will support you. Oh, * This refers to Mr., afterward Sir, Arthur Helps' introduction to the Col- lected Addresses and Speeches of the Prince Consort, which was then about to be published (Murray, 1862). ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 31 could my feeble words bring you the least comfort ! They come from a trusting, true and loving heart, if from naught else. Auerbach : August 16. . . . We do feel for you so deeply and would wish so much to help you, but there is but One who can do that, and you linow whom to seek. He will give you strength to live on till the bright day of reunion. . . . Auerbach : August 21. . . . Our visit to Giessen* went ofE very well. The people were most loyal. We went to see the Gynmasts, and Louis walked about amongst them, which pleased them very much. He is very popular there, and 1 am very glad we both went, for it made a good impression. We drove to Louis' property, Stauffenberg, a beautiful (alas! ruined) castle, which by degrees he is having'restored, and which will be a charming house tor us, if it is finished, which can 'only be done gradually. Auerbach : August 23. . . . Try and gather in the few bright things you have re- maining and cherish them, for though faint, yet they are types of that infinite joy still to come. 1 am sure, dear Mamma, the more you try to appreciate and to find the good in that which God in His love has left you, the more worthy you will daily become of that which is in store. That earthly happiness you had is indeed gone for ever, but you must not think that every ray of it has left you. You have the privilege, which dear Papa knew so well how to value, in your exalted position, of doing good and living for others, of carry- ing on his plans, his wishes into fulfillment, and as you go on doiiig your duty, this will, this must, 1 feel sure, bring you peace and com- fort. Forgive me, darling Mamma, if I speak so openly ; but my love for you is such that 1 cannot be silent, when 1 long so fervently to give you some slight comfort and hope in your present life. 1 have known and watched j^our deep sorrow with a sympathiz- ing, though aching heart. Do not think that absence from you can still that pain. My love for you is strong, is constant; I would like to shelter you in my arms, to protect jon from all future anxietj^, to still your aching longing! My own sweet Mamma, you know I would give my life for you, could 1 alter what you have to bear! Trust in Qod! ever and constantly. In my life 1 feel that to be my stay and my strength, and the feeling increases as the days go on. My thoughts of the future are bright, and this always helps lo make the minor worries and sorrows o^ the present dissolve before the warm rays of that light which is our guide. Auerbach : August 25. . , . To-day is the Ludwigstag, a day kept throughout the country, and on which every Ludwig receives presents, &c. ; but we spend it quite quietly. Louis' jjarents and the others are coming to breakfast, and remain during the day. Louis is out riding. We * During a Musical and Gymnastic Festival. 22 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. always get up early. He rides whilst I write, and we then walk together and breakfast somewhere out of doors. We went to the little church here yesterday, which is very old, and they sung so well. 1 drew out of doors also, as it was very fine; but it is very difficult, as it is all green, and the trees are my misfortune, as 1 draw them so badly. I play sometimes with Christa;* she plays very well. August 26 [Prince Consort's Birthday]. With a heavy heart do I take up my pen to write to you to-day — this dear day, now so sad, save through its bright recollections. 1 cannot bear to think of it now, with no one to bring our wishes to, with that painful silence where such mirth and gayety used to be. It is very hard to bear, and the first anniversary is like the com- mencement of a new epoch in our deep sorrow When your dear present was brought to me this morning, 1 could not Jake my eyes from it, though they were blinded with tears. Oh, those beautiful, those loved features! There wants but his kind look and word to make the picture alive! Thousand thanks for it, dear Mamma. flow trying this day will be for you! My thoughts are constantly with you, and 1 envy the privilege the others have in being near you and being able to do the least thing for you. The sun shines brightly in the still blue sky; how bright and peaceful it must be where our dear Spirit dwells, if it is already so beautiful here. . September 5. . . . Two days ago, Louis and 1 went to Worms. Whilst he went to his regiment, which the Grand Duke came to inspect, I went to the Dom, which is most beautiful ; and then went in a little boat on the Rhine, which was charming. It took us, driving, an hour and a half from Auerbach to Worms Auerbach : September 7. . . . For Louis' birthday we are going to Darmstadt; It is getting cold and damp here, and the house is small. We take our meals in another house, and it is cold to walk over there of an evening. Think of us on the 12th. It was such a happy day last year.f 1 have such Heimweh [yearning] after beloved Papa; it is dread- ful sometimes when I thmk of him and of our home. But he is so happy in his bright home, could we but catch a glimpse of him there. Dear Grandmamma [the Duchess of Kent], too, is con- stantly in my thoughts lately. I can see her before me — so dear, kind, and merry. As time goes on, such things only mingle them- selves more vividly with one's usual life; for it is their life which is nearest us again, and not their death, which casts such a gloom o7er their remembrance. Auerbach: September 11. . . . H;ow beautiful Heidelberg is! we went all over the Castle, and with such glorious weather. There is one side si ill * The Princess's lady, Baroness Christa Schenk. + Prince Louis was then at Balmoral. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 23 Standing, built and decorated by a pupil of Michael Angelo, wbich dear Papa admired so much. How do 1 miss not being able to talk to beloved Papa of all 1 see, hear, feel, and think! His absence makes such a gap in my existence. Daraistadt : October 13. . . . Our visit to Baden was charming, and dear Fritz and Louise* so kind! Louis and 1 were both delighted by our visit. The Queen, the Duchess of Hamilton, and Grand Duchess Helfine were there, besides dear Aunt [Princess Hohenlohe], and Countess Bliicher. The two latter, dear and precious as ever. We left yesterday morning ; spent three hours with Grand Duchess Sophie, who is the most agreeable, clever, amiable person one can imagine. It gave me real pleasure to make her acquaintance. Aunt Feodore's house, though small, is really very pretty, and her rooms are hung full of pictures. I saw "Winterhalter also, in his lovely new house, which he has gone and sold, saying it was too good for him. He has painted a most beautiful picture of the Grand Duchess Hel^ne — quite speaking. ... 1 am going to make my will before leaving. 1 do not like leaving (for England) without having done something. Darmstadt : October 1". First of all, thousand thanks from Louis and me tor your having allowed dear Arthurf to come to us. I cannot tell you what pleas- ure it has been to me to have that dear child a little bit. He has won all hearts, and 1 am so proud when they admire my little brother, who is a mixture of you and adored Papa. Darmstadt : October 33. . . . We intend probably leaving this on Saturday, the 8th, re- maining until the 10th at Coblenz, from whence we go direct in eleven hours and three-quarters to Antwerp, leaving Antwerp the morning of the 12th, to reach Windsor that evening or the next morning. We always continue reading together, and have read Hypatia, a most beautiful, most interesting, and very learned and clever book, which requires great attention. 1 have the great bore to read the newspapers eveiy day, which 1 must do; see Dr. Becker:}: from eleven to twelve; then 1 write, and have constantly people to see, so that 1 have scarcely any time to draw or to play. 1 also read serious books to myself. Louis would like to go to Leeds and Manchester from Osborne, as he wants to go to London from Windsor. I shall accompany him sometimes. October 25. As you come later to Windsor, we shall not leave till the 10th, re- main the 11th with the Queen, then go direct to Antwerp. If the weather is bad we shall wait. Then on the 14th or 15th we shall * Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of Baden. + Duke of Connaught, then twelve years old. X The Princess Alice's private secretary. 24 ALICEj GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. be at Windsor, wliicli we prefer to coming to Osborne. We hope this will suit you. All are full of lamentations at our departure, and for so long, which is most natural; but they are very kind. We have a family dinner in our little room to-day, which is large enough for a few people. The Grand Duke has quite lost his heart to Arthur, and Bertie [Prince of Wales] pleased him also very much. In talking together last night, Louis said what i feel so often, that he always felt as if it must come right again some time, and we should find deai Papa home again. In another home we shall. October 30. The Grand Duke was quite overcome when 1 gave him the photo- graphs, and with Baby's [Princess Beatrice's] he is quite enchanted, and wishes me toJell you how grateful he is, and how much he thanks you. You cannot think hoio pleased he was, and the more so that you sent them him. He has a warm heart and feels very much for you, and takes warm interest in allmy brothers and sisters. 1 am glad you are going to see dear Fritz of Baden ; he will be so pleased. We shall see Louise at Coblenz. The plans for our house are come, and even the simplest is far above what we poor mortals can build. November 6. . . . Yesterday, Mrs Combe, widow of George Combe and daughter of Mrs. Siddons, came to see me and was some time with, me. Such a clever, amiable old lady. It gave me such pleasure 1o see and talk with her. Will you tell Sir James Clark so, as she is an old friend of his? 1863 Each visit to hex old home seemed to give fresh life to Princess Alice, and it can therefore be easily understood how great her hap- piness was at being again under her mother's roof and care, there to await the realization of her fondest hopes. It was also a great comfort to the Princess to spend the first anni- versary of her father's death with her family around her. On the 18th of December, 1862, the remains of the Prince Consort were placed in a temporary sarcophagus, in the center of the newly- erected mausoleum at Frogmore in the presence of the Prince of Wales, Prince Arthur, Prince Leopold and Prince Louis of Hesse. Prince Louis occupied much of his time during his long stay in Enjtland in making a number of interesting visits to the chief indus- trial centers, and to the military arsenals and depots. Princess Alice met with a carriage accident on the last day of the old year, which happily was followed by no bad consequences. On the 10th of March, 1863, the Prince of Wales was married to the Princess Alexandra of Denmark at St. George's Chapel, Windsor Castle, in the presence of the whole Royal family. It was the first Royal maiTiage which had been celebrated in that chapel since the marriage of Henry I. in 1123. Soon after, on Easter Sunday, the 5th of April, 1863, Princess ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 25 Louis of Hesse gave birth to a daughter at Windsor Castle. This event was made known next day at Darmstadt by the firing of twenty-one guns. The best possible news continued to be received of the well-doing of mother and child. The little Princess was christened on the 27th of April at Windsor by the Hessian Court chaplain, Bender. She received the names of Yictoria Alberta Elizabeth Matilda. The Princess Alexander and Henry of Hesse represented the Grand Ducal family at the christen- ing. Princess Alice completed her recovery during a stay at Osborne in May, and while there was able to accompany the Queen on a visit to the Military Hospital at Netley. After a short stay in London, Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse and their little daughter returned to Darmstadt. They spent the summer months at Kranichstein, a shooting-lodge near Darmstadt, belonging to the Grand Duke. The Princes employed her time in becoming better acquainted with her adopted country, its inhabitants, their customs, and ways of thinking. The Congress of German Potentates and Princes at Frankfort in August brought the Princess in contact with many crowned heads. She proved herself her father's true child in regard to politics. The Prince Consort had always longed for an united Germany, with Prussia at its head, and a Liberal Constitution. Princess Alice's letters will show how truly German her feelings were in the Schles- wig Holstein question, which at that time, owing to the death of King Frederick VII. of Denmark, and the claims made by his suc- cessor. King Christian IX., to the succession in the Duchies also, assumed a European interest, and led to consequences of permanent importance in the history of Em'ope. The accounts of the manner in which the Prince and Princess Louis endeavored to fulfill their social duties throw a significant light iipon the way in which the young Princess discharged her duties as the mistress of her home. In August the Princess met Queen Victoria at Coburg: and after- ward had the happiness of receiving Her Majesty and her sisters Helena, Louise and Beatrice, and her brother Alfred, on a short visit at Kranichstein. A few weeks later the Prince and Princess with their child joined the Queen at Balmoral, where nearly all the members of the Royal fa"lnily were assembled. In November they returned to Darmstadt, where, during theu' absence, the new jDalace had made rapid progress, and was roofed in. It was built on a site given by the Grand Duke, and after plans de- signed by the Princess herself. The arrangement of the interior was entirely carried out by herself in a manner both practical and ar- tistic. In December, Prince Louis' only sister, Anna, was engaged to be married to the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, an event which gave great satisfaction at the time. The Princess spent her first Christmas in Germany this year — 1863. 26 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Marlborough House : May 14. Dearest Mamma, — Our parting this morning was most painful to both of us— from you to wliom we oioe so much, and whom we love so dearly. May God comfort and support you, beloved Mamma, on your sad and weary pilgrimage! Marlborough House : May 16. 1 could not get your dear face and your sweet voice out of my mind for an instant, and everywhere I thought 1 must see you or •. dear Papa. It seemed so strange; I had the tears in my eyes all day. The worst was the Opera, for 1 had never been without you or Papa, and all was the same and yet so different! It was very try- . ing to me; and so will the Drawing-room be to-day. ... 1 saw Lady Jocelyn, Duchess of Manchester, Sir Charles Locock, and Lord Alfred Paget, to show them Baby, and all find her like what we all were. How much we have to thank for in her name. Your affec- tion for her and all you have done for her liave touched us more than I can say. It seemed to me quite wrong to take her from you. On Wednesday, Alix [Princess of AYales] and myself go to the studios. This morning we drove in Battersea Park. May 19. . . . The Drawing-room was long, but Alix and 1 were not so tired, considering the length of time, for we stood, excepting twenty minutes, in, the middle, when there was a block and the peo- ple could not come. In to-day's letter you mention again your wish that we should soon be with you again. Out of ten months of our married life five have been spent uuder your roof, so you see how ready we are to be with you. Before next year Louis does not think we shall be able to come; at any rate when we can we shall, and 1 hope we shall be able to see you for a day or two in Germany to divide the time. Darmstadt : May 23. . . . Baby* has been so much admired, and all the clothes you gave her. Darmstadt: May. 1 sha'n't have time to write more than a few words, as we have just returned from church, and are going to Mayence till Wednes- day. The Grand Duke came all the way to Kranichstein yesterday , to "go about with us, and see how to arrange it comfortably. He is .' most kind, and sat an hour with me. \ We have received two deputations this morning, and my things, [ which ought to have been here before us, only arrived to-day. Mayence : June 2. There was a large dinner yesterday ; the Nassaus dined here, and this morning we have been to Biebrich. The Duke and Duchess, Nicolas Nassau, Marianne of Prussia, f her sister the Duchess of Altenburg, and Landgrave William were there. They were most * Princess Victoria of Hesse. t Princess Frederick Charles, mother of the Duchess of Connaught. ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 27 "kind and civil. We hurried back in time for dinner. The Grand Duke is most kind, has taken me everywhere about himself — into the Dom, into several shops, &c. Now when I return I shall have to unpack and pack again for Kranichstein, and arrange the house there, which has not been lived in for eighty years, so that for writing 1 have barely a moment. 1 have good accounts of Baby, whom all the old gentlemen run out of their houses to look at, when she walks in the garden, and try to tell Moffat [her nurse] what they think of her, but she of course understands nothing. Darmstadt: Junes. I write to you to-day, as Louis is going for all day to Worms to- morrow, and 1 am going to Jugenheim to Uncle Alexander. It is already warm here, and we are going in a day or two into the coun- try. "The Queen of Prussia passes through here to-day, and I shall probably hear from her what her intentions are about England. I have received a splendid bracelet from the Empress of Russia — for Baby's picture. She is said to be far from well. Darmstadt : June 6. . . . Louis was away from four o'clock yesterday morning till eleven at night. He was at Worms with Uncle Louis. Tuesday is his bii'thday, and we shall very likely go on Monday to Maj^ence, as Uncle Louis is always wishing for us. 1 took a walk at Jugenheim yesterday with Uncle Alexander, his wife and children, of more than two hours, and it was so beautiful, and numberless little birds singing. Uncle Alexander was so grate- ful for all your kindness, and was above all so charmed with you. It always makes me so happy to be able to talk about you, and to hear you appreciated as you ought to be, darling Mamma. June 8. . . . Baby sits up quite strong, and looks about and laughs. She has got on wonderfully, and she is so good. She was an hour with us yesterday evening wide awake, and so good. She is as well and as strong as any child could be. To-day we go to Mainz, and to-morrow night from thence to Kranichstein. All our beds must be moved meanwhile, as there are none in the house. Kranichstein : June 12. Louis went at six this morning to Darmstadt for the inspection of his regiment by Uncle Louis. Princess Charles's birthday is on the 18th. The Grand Duke will be at Friedberg, and we are to go for the da3^ which will be rather tiring, as it is a good way by rail and back again, and we have to wait an hour at Frankfort. Louis is going to take his seat in the Chamber on the 23rd. He was unable to do so last year, as we left for England two days be- fore the time. June 19. . . . You ask me again if 1 occupy myself much and seri- ously? Not a moment of the day is wasted, and I have enough to read and to think about : what with the many and different papers. 38 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. and interesling books. Dr. Becker comes daily, and 1 have a good deal to look after. We have a dinner to-day — Prince and Princess Charles, Uncle Adalbert, Anna, William, and the suites. June 23. ... You will be amused to hear that I have taken a little black (a Malay) into my service. He is a dear good boy, was brought over two years ago by a gentleman, to whom he was given away by his own parents as a mark of gratitude for some service done. This man has had him here two years, but has never had him taught any- thing. He has no religion, and can neither read nor write. 1 am going to have him taught, and, later, christenea. He is very intel- ligent, thirteen years old. We shall remain here for the present ; we go about a good deal seeing things near by, and then it is the first time we have our house hold and stable, so that on account of Haushaltung [housekeeping], &c. , we are going to remain here for a little time. It is very pleas- ant besides, and constant moving is far too expensive for us. We give dinners here, which are also useful, as 1 know so few people. Some of the Standesherren are coming to-morrow, and later some of the Abgeordneten [Deputies] of the Second Chamber, which will give us an opportunity of malting the acquaintance of some of the Lib- erals of the country. 1 cannot get lid of my rheumatism, which is so unpleasant. Louis is very busj'' ; he reads to me sometimes out of Lord Macau- lay's last volume of the English History, which I had not yet read. Twice a week Louis takes drill with his cavalry regiment, and he has to ride out at six in the morning, as it is some way off. June 27. ... 1 bathe every morning and swim about; there is a nice little bathing-house. I hear Baby shrieking out of doors; she does not cry very much, but she is very passionate. She was vaccinated two days ago by Dr. Weber, and I am going to be done next week ; the small-pox is at Darmstadt, and a man died of it yesterday. Louis is very industri- ous and busy ; he has all the papers of the Stande [State papers] to read and look through, and reads other useful books, besides papers and other things which he must read. He wrote to Lord Derby to express his thanks for having been made a Doctor at Oxford. He takes a great deal of exercise, riding, walking, rowing, swimming. We get up at six every morning and go to bed after ten. Louis has always a good deal to do at home, and a good many things which would never be expected of him in England. He knows the necessity and importance of working. I hope next month Uncle Ernest* will come to us for a day on his way back from Homburg. He has asked us for a few days to the Calenberg whilst you are in Germany, and then in the winter we hope to be for a few days at Gotha. The Lutzows,f and Miss Seymour dine with us to-day. * Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. •I- Count Lutzow was at this time the Austrian Minister Plenipotentiary at the Court of Darmstadt. ALICE, GEA]S'D DUCHESS OP HESSE. 29 June 30. Lady I'ife is at Homburg, and is coming to dine witli us. To- morrow all the family and some other people come to dinner. We have seen a good manj^ people; we receive in the morning or tor dinner. Dalwigk gave a large soiree in the woods, with a supper, for us last night. All the Standesherren and Foreign Ministers were there. To-morrow is our dear wedding-day. With ^hat gratitude do 1 look back to that commencement of such happiness, and such real and true love, which even daily increases in my beloved husband. Oh ! ma}^ we not be deprived of it too soon ! 1 admire and respect him for his true-hearted, generous, unselfish, and just nature! Oh, dear Mamma, if you only knew how excellent he is! I wish 1 were good like him, for he is free from any selfish, small or uncharitable feelings. You should see how he is beloved by all his people; our servants adore him. 1 open my heart to you, who have so warm and sympathizing a heart, that even in the midst of such deep grief and sorrow as yours will listen to what your children, who love you so dearly, long to say. Our little one is grown so pretty; she has little pink cheeks, and is so fat and so good-humored. 1 often think her like you when she smiles. July 2. You can fancy how much we thought of this day last year, and of you and all the love and kindness you showed us then. How truly we both love you, and, when we can, how willingly we shall come to your side, and be of the least use to you, you know, ior 1 feel for you and with yoii, more than words can describe. Our first large dinner yesterday went off very well. We make our arrangements, sitting, &c., all as you aad dear Papa had it, which is new here, but, 1 am happy to say, approved of. We al- ways dine at four. Baby appeared afterward, and really never cri^s when she is shown, but smiles, and seems quite amused. She is immensely admired, particularly for her healthy appearance and fine large eyes. I really think her like you now; she is very much changed, and, when she sits up, looks so pretty and dear. To-day we have again a dinner. There are a fine dining-room and drawing-room here, so that we can see a good many people. July 4. Shortly we are going to pay Prince Solms-Lich, the president of the First Chamber, a visit. He is very liberal on the whole, rich, and a nice old gentleman. He knew Grandpapa in the year 1820, also Uncle Charles, Uncle Hohenlohe, Aunt Feodore, and Eliza. Lady Fife, Annie, and Mr. Corbett from Frankfort are coming to us to-day. The Grand Duke of Weimar was here yesterday for dinner at the Schloss. What you saj"^ about Germanj'- is so true ; and Louis has the real uood of his country near at heart. They always have to vote for or against what the Second Chamber brings forward, and the other day a vote was sent in from the Liberals for an alteration of a Press 30 ALICE; GUA2?}^D DUCHESS OF HESSE. Law. Only one voice in the whole Chamber was for it, which was Louis', and this produced a very good effect among the Liberals. He is no coward, and will say what he thinks, if it is necessary, even if all are against him. Kranichstein : July 15. To-day is Uncle Alexander's birthday, and we have to drive for dinner to Seeheim.' To-morrow morning we leave for Lich at five in the morning. Two nights ago a horrid and schanerUcTies [appalling] event took place here. 1 went out about eight down to the pond, which is close to the house, to meet Louis. 1 met an odd-looking pale man, who neither bowed nor looked about, walking slowly along; and when 1 joined Louis he asked me if 1 had seen him, as he had been prowling about all the afternoon. We stopped a Jittle longer, when at the end our grooms v^^ere running. We rowed on to see what was the matter, and on coming near, a body was floating in the water, the face already quiie blue and lifeless. 1 recognized him at once. Louis and the others with trouble fished him out and laid him in our boat tc bring him on shore. It was very horrid to see. We brought him on shore, tried all means to restore him to life, but of no avail. He was carried into the stable. He had committed sui- cide, and we heard afterward that he was a very bad character, Tou can fancy that it was very unpleasant to me, to have that dis- figured corpse next me in the boat: and it haunts me now — for a violent death leaves frightful traces, so unlike anything else. But half or quarter of an hour before, 1 had passed that man in life, and so shortly after to see him floating by quite lifeless! It brings death before one in its worst form, when one sees a bad man die by his own hand. The indifference with which the other people treated it, and dragged him along, was also revolting to one's feelings; but one must be manly, and not mind those things; yet I own it made me rather sick, and prevented my sleep that night. I am glad we are going away for a few days; the change will be pleasant. It was such a pleasure to me to have seen dear Lady Frances Bail- lie the other day, and she was looking well, though she is very thin. You kindly gave me our dear Papa's Farm Book for the Farmers' Union here; the people are so touched and pleased. 1 send you the letter of thanks to read. Lich : July 18. . . . "We leave to-morrow afternoon for Frankfort, and the next day we go to Homburg on the way home. The Prince and Princess are most kind and civil; they have a fine Schloss, and are rich. The latter is clever and amiable, and the young people— their nephews and nieces — are very nice and very kind. It is a fine rich country, and they seem very much beloved. The sister of the Prin- cess, Princess Solms-Laubach, nee Blidingen, is here also. Her husband was in the Prussian service, and they lived at Bonn whilst dear Papa was there. He came to see them and to spend the even- ing tnere veiy often. She told me how handsome he then was, and how much praised and liked by all. She asked after Rath Flor- ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 31 schlitz,* after Eos.f and if dear Papa continued later on to be so sleepy of an evening, as he was even then. Kranichstein: JulySl.' Our visit at Lich went oS very well. Everything is so ' vor- nehm ' [in such good style] and so well arranged. July 23. "We are going to give Heinrich^ a rendezvous somewhere, per- haps at Kreuznach, which is not very far. On August 1 we are going to the north of the country — a part which 1 do not know — and on the way we stop at Giessen, where we have been invited to see an Agricultural Exhibition. On Monday we give a tea and a dance— between fifty and sixty people. The advantage of this place is its nearness to Darmstadt, and that there is room enough to receive peo- ple. The Russian and French embassadors, with their wives, and Mr. Corbett and Lord Robert S. K.err, dine with us to-day. July 27. I have no news to give. To-night we give our first large party — seventy people. August 1. Yesterday we were all day at Rumpenheim : so kindly received ! The Landgrave, his two brothers Frederic and George, the Dowager Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelilz, her daughter Duchess Caroline, Aunt Cambridge, Mary, Augusta and Adolphus ; Fritz and Anna of Hesse and good Princess Louise, kindness itself. Aunt Cam- bridge was very amiable, and spoke most tenderly of you. To-mor- row morning Louis goes to Oberhessen, where 1 join him in two days. 1 go to see Uncle Alexander at Jugenheim; go on Monday to Friedberg, where there is an asylum for blind people, of which 1 am Protectorin [Patroness]. I go to see it, and sleep at the Castle. The next day 1 stop on my road to see Marburg, and shall be in the even- ing at Alsfeld, where 1 find Louis. The next day 1 go on to Herr von Riedsel at Altenburg, where 1 breakfast, and 1 dine and spend the night with another Riedesel family at Eisenbach. Louis joins me that evening. The nest day we go on through the country, as the people are anxious to see us, and the country is very beautiful. On Thursday and Friday we shall be at Giessen, on Saturday at home. Giessen : August 7, 1 am very hot and tired ; we have only just reached this place, and have to go out almost immediately to see the animals and ma- chines. Our journey has been most prosperous, but rather tiring, and Ihe heat quite fearful. We were most kindly received everywhere. English, Hessian, German flags everywhere, and " Gesangvereine " of an evening. * Tutor of Prince Consort during his boyhood and early youth. t A favorite greyhound of the Prince Consort's, which he brought to Eng- land at the time of his marriage. t Prince Henry of Hesse, brother of Prince Louis. 32 ALICE, GEAFD DUCHESS OE HESSE. Last night we slept at Scliotten, and posted from thence to-day through a lovely, rich, wooded and mountainous district, the Vogels- berg. We have had but one room everywhere, and have remained only long enough at a place to see it, so that writing has been impossible. To-morrow evening we return to Kranichstein, and then I will write to you an account oi everything. Here, with no time, and such heat and noise, it is impossible. Kranichstein : August 9. . . . We went, when 1 last wrote to you at Giessen, to see the different machines at work, in a crowd close round us and a smoth- ering heat. It was interesting, though, in spite of all. The people cheered and were very civil. That day, at the meeting of the agri- culturists, Count Laubach told me dear Papa's book lay on the ta- ble, and is of the greatest use and Interest. 1 am so pleased to have been the first in Germany to make known something of Papa's knowledge in this science, one of the many in which dear Papa ex- ceHed. The people are so grateful to you for having sent it. In the evening the president and some other scientific gentlemen came to tea with us. 1 was so g'md to see how pleased the people were at the interest Louis takes in these things. A procession was really very pretty; large carts, decorated with the different agricultural em- blems, peasants in their different costumes — it was something quite new to me. At Marburg, I saw in the beautiful church the grave of St. Eliza- beth, the castle where she lived, and many other things which Kings] ey mentions in his Saint's Tragedy/. This week the Emperor of A.ustria and other potentates came to Frankfort. The King of Prussia has refused, so that now, as it is not a universal meeting, it will not be what it might have been. August 19. . . . The Emperor came all the way to Kranichstein to pay us a visit, and is vevj amiable, though not very talkative. Archduke William, King Max, and the Duke of Brunswick were also here yesterday. We saw the procession to the Eomer from a small room, already filled by twelve Rumpenheimers! It was a very interesting sight. August 31. . . . This evenins; all the crowned heads nearly are coming to the opera, and the Rumpenheimers very likely also. Uncle Ernest comes to us for dinner, and we take him with us. August 34. . . . We dined at Homburg yesterdays afternoon with the old Hereditary Grand Duchess of Schwei'in, Louis' great aunt, who" is eighty-six, and as fresh and lively as ever. The Duke of Altenburg and the Grand Duke of Schwerin were with us, and both of them wish to have their respectful duty sent to you. [During the months of September and October the Princess was in Englanil on a visit to the Queen.] ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OE HESSE. 33 Buckingham Palace : October 28. Thousand thanks for your dear lines! How sad that we should be reduced to writing again! It was such a happiness to speak 1o you, and in return to hear all you had to say — to try and soothe you, and try to make your burden lighter. 1 always fee'l separation from you so much, for 1 feel for and with you, more, oh, far more, than I can ever express! 1 can only say again, trust, hope, and be coura- geous, and every day will bring something in the fulfillment of all your great duties — which will bring you peace, and make you feel that you are not forsaken, that God has heard your prayer, felt for you, as a loving Father would, and that dear Papa is not far from jou. We remain here to- night, as Louis had a bad sick-headache, tooth- ache and so on, and he must rest. "We leave to morrow afternoon. Alfie [Prince Alfred] and William (of Hesse) were very well, and seem quite happy together. Affie sends love, and William his re- spects. Darmstadt : November 2. Before going out (half -past six) I begin these lines. You will have heard what an awful passage we had. Christa and I had one of those cabins near the paddle-box, and good old May* was with us. Each wave that broke on the ship Christa and 1 groaned, and May exclaimed, "Oh, goodness, gracious me! what an awful sea! Lord bless you, child, 1 hope it is all safe!" and so on. If we had not been so' wretched, and had not looked so awful with those mount- ains of waves about us, 1 should have laughed. All the maids and Moftat were sick. Baby was sick all over her nice new shawl, which was a great grief. Uncle Louis and Uncle Gustav received us at the station. My parents-in-law don't return till Wednesday. Yesterday Uncle Louis gave us a large dinner, and to-day he dines en famille in our house with Prince Adalbert of Bavaria, Uncle Gustav, f and ourselves. I was quite done up by this journey. At four in the morning we changed carriages at Cologne, and did not get here till past twelve o'clock — twenty-nine hours under way. November 5. . . . Yesterday evening Louis and I were at a chemical lecture, which was very interesting, by young Hallnachs, the brother of the one Becker spoke to you about. Our house is getting on very well, and we are often there. Louis is very grateful and touched by your kind message, and liisses your hand. He is often away for those tiresome Jagdeu [shooling-parties] from five in the morning till eight at night, as it is some way off. November 14. lt"is not yet eight, and 1 have such cold fingers. The messenger leaves at nine — so I must write now. We are going to Mayence to- day, to see a house of our architect, Kraus, which is said to be very pretty and very English. 1 paid Becker and his mother a visit yesterday. Their rooms are * 3Irs. Hull, a former nurse of the Princess and her brothers and sisters. t Prince Gustav Wasa, first cousin to Prince Charles of Hesse. 34 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE, SO nice, pictures and presents from you and dear Papa in all direc- tions, remembrances of past, such happy, years! Yesterday also I drove Baby out in my little carriage. She sat on Christa's knees and looked about her so much; she went to sleep at last. November 17. . . . Yesterday 1 was all the morning with Julie Battenberg- buying Christmas presents. To-day also 1 am much occupied. "We get up at seven, with candles, every morning, as this is the best time for doing all business, and breakfast at eight. November 21. . . . The Holstein question, 1 fear, will lead to war, Fritz's* rights are so clear. And 1 am sure all Germany will help him to maintain his rights, for the cause is a just one. I am sure, dear Mamma, you are worried to death about it, which, is very hard, for you cannot undo what once exists. Anything only to avoid war! It would be a sad calamity for Germany, the end of which no one can foresee. My Baby has this morning cut her first tooth, and makes such faces if one ventures to touch her little mouth. ■ To day I am going to visit the hospital in the town, which is said not to be good or well looked after. 1 want to be able to do some- thing for it and hope to succeed, for the people have plenty of money, only not the will. The Burgomaster and Gemeinderath [the T'own Councilors] will meet me there. I have just called into life what did not exist, that is, linen to be lent for the poor women in their confinements, and whicli I hope vnll he of use to them, for the dirt and discomfort are very great in those classes. November 28. . . . My visit to the hospital was very interesting, and the air was good, the place clean and fresh. There were few people dan- gerously ill there, and they looked well taken care of. Air and water are making their way into these places to the benefit of man- kind. 1 was so much distressed the other day ; for the poor man who fell in our house has died. He was a soldier, and so respectable and in- dustrious, not above twenty-four. This is already the second who has died in consequence of a fall. Our visij; to Carlsruhe was very pleasant. The Queen [of Prussia] was there, and we spoke so much of you together. She enters quite into all your feelings, and perfectly understands all the sad trials and difficulties of your position in addition to your just and natural grief. November 30. A few words of love and affection from us both on this dear day — the third anniversary of the commencement of all our happiness, which dear Papa and you enabled us to form. Those happy days at Windsor and those awful days the year after! 1 assure you the season, the days, all make me sad — for the impres- sion of those two years can never be wiped out of my mind. 1 can * The late Duke Frederic of Augustenburg. ALICE, GRANT* DUCHESS OF HESSE. 35 write but a few liaes, as to-morrow we leave for Amorbach. and to- day 1 go with Louis out shooting. It is cold and fine, as it was two years ago. Darling Mamma, again and again we thanjj: you and beloved Papa for all your love to us at that time. Amorbach: Decembers. . . . We aiTived here at half -past four yesterday — after a bitter cold drive in an open carriage over hard roads, all being frozen, since ten in the morning. The country we came through was beautiful, though all white, up and down hill all the way, through many villages, through woods, &c. The house is large and com- fortable, full of souvenii-s ot dear Grrandmamma [Duchess of Kent], of Uncle Charles. • 1 am so pleased to be with Ernest and Marie* — it is a bit of home again. Darmstadt : December 6. . . . Our visit to Amorbach was so pleasant, though the weather was bad. I was so happy to be once more with Ernest and Marie. Ed wardf was very amusing and good-natured. 1 saw poor old Wagner,:]: who wishes me to send you his duty. December 8. . . . Think, only yesterday evenmg at a concert they played Buy Bias, which I had not heard since Windsor. The room, the band, dear Papa, all came before me, and made my ieart sink at the thought that that belonged to the bright recollections of the past! I cried all the way home. Such trivial things sometimes awaken rec- ollections more vividly, and hurt more keenly, than scenes of real distress. 1 am sure you know what I mean. December 18. ... 1 must close — my tears fall fast, and 1 ought not to make you sadder, when you are sad enough already. Pray for me when you kneel at Ms grave — pi ay that my happiness may be allowed to last long; think of me when you kneel there where on that day my hand rested on your and Papa's dear hands, two years ago. That bond between us both is so strong, beloved Mamma. I feel it as a legacy from him. December 23. A great pleasure 1 have had in arranging a tree for our good servants. I bought all the things myself at the market, and hung them on the tree; then 1 also got things for darling Louis. December 26. . . . We all had trees in one large room in the Palace, and our presents underneath it looked extremely pretty. Uncle Alexander's five children were there, and made such a noise with their play- things. Baby had a little tree early at her Grandpapa and Grandmamma's, with all her pretty things. Many thanks for the turkey pie; we give a dinner to-day in honor. * Prince and Princess of Leiningen, t Prince Leiningen's brother. t Former tutor to Prince Leiningen's father. 36 ALICE, GRAND DUCKESS OF HESSE. 1864. The year 1864 was a most eventful one for Gerbiany. After a severe struggle, the Duchies of Schleswig-Holstein were wrested from the control of the German Confederation or Diet at Frankfort,^ and occupied by Austrian and Prussian troops. The Princess's own life that year was full of joyful events, and no cloud of sorrow came to disturb her happiness. The marriage of Princess Anna of Hesse, which took place on the 13th of May, was a cause of great rejoicing to the family. During the first months of "the year the Prince and Princess paid several short visits to Gotha, Carlsruhe and Munich, and in the summer spent three happy months in England. On their return to Germany they received numerous guests at Kranichstein. But in spite of the many social duties and distrac- tions in which the Princess took an active part, she never lost sight of more serious duties and pursuits. She became the " Protectress " of the " Heidenreich Institution for Lying-in Women," which was the beginning of the active interest afterward taken by her in_ all sanitary improvements. This interest was heightened by the birth of her second daughter, who was born on the 1st of November, 1864, and christened on the 28th of that month, receiving the names Elizabeth Alexandra Louise Alice. The Princess was very proud of being able to nurse her child herself, and from this time she took up with the keenest interest all questions relating to the physical, mental, and moral training of children. She found an able sup- porter and independent adviser in Dr. Weber, a very eminent med- ical man, resident at Darmstadt. January 5. , . . The cold here is awful. I skated yesterday, and to-day we are going to the pond at Kranichstein. (Very few people skate here— only one lady, and she very badly.) Baby only goes out for half an hour in the middle of the day, well wrapped up. It would not do to keep her quite at heme, as she would become so sensitive w^hen first taken out again. Of course when it is windy or too cold she stops in. January 9. I was aghast on receiving Bertie's telegram this morning an- nouncing the birth of their little son. Oh, may dear Papa's bless- ing rest on the little one; may it turn out like dear Papa, and be a comfort and pride to you, and to its young parents! Youi first En- glish grandchild. Dear Mamma, my heart is so full. May dear Alix and the Baby only go on well ! January 16. ... Baby says "Papa," "Mamma," and yesterday several times ".Louis." She imitates everything she hears, all noises and sounds ; she gets on her feet alone by a chair, and is across the room before one can turn round. Her adoration for Louis is touching. She stops always, since the summer, alone in our room, so she never cries- ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE/ 37 for Moffat [her nurse], and is very happy on the floor with her play- things. She is a very clear little thing and gets on very fast, but equally in all things, and is as fat as she was. It is so interesting to watch the progress and development of such a little being ; and Baby is so expressive, she makes such a face when she is not pleased, and laughs so heartily when she is contented. She is more like a child of two years old a great deal. Gotha : January 22. After a very cold journey we arrived here on Wednesday afternoon. 1 found dear Uncle and Aunt well, Leopoldine (who is very dear and nice), and Hermann,* Edward and Marie Leiningen-, and Prince Lowenstein here. Only Hermann and Leopoldine live in the Castle besides us; the others are all at Uncle's house. January 30. . . . These poor Schleswig-Holsteiners do what they can to liberate themselves frotn the Danish yoke, and to regain their lawful sovereign, Fritz. And why is England, who stands up lor freedom of countries, who in Italy, where there was less cause, did what she could to liberate the country from her lawful sovereigns, to do what she can to prevent the Schleswig-Holsteiners from liberating them- selves from a king who has no right over them, merely because they are unfortunate good-natured Germans, who allow themselves tcr be oppressed? February 5. In the distance, dear Mamma, one really cannot judge correctly of reasons for or against things, when one does not exactly know how everything stands. February 14. . . . We have been in sledges to-day, and everybody drives about. the town in them; it sounds so pretty, all the jingling bells. . . . Shakespeare's words came home to him — Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown. Thank God, my husband has none! 1 thank the Almighty daily lor our peaceful homely life, in which sphere we can do a good deal of good to our fellow-creatures, without havjng to mix in those hateful politics. Our life is a very, very happy one. 1 have nothing on earth to wish for, and much as 1 loved my precious Louis when I mariied him, still more do 1 love him now and daily; for his character is worthy of love and respect, and a better husband or f athei , a more unselfish and kind one, there does not live. His love for you, you know ; and on our return how glad we shall be to be near you once more. February 16. Louis is in the Chamber to-day from nine till one, long enough at a stretch, and immediately after breakfast. We always breakfast at eight; then Louis sees the three officers who come every morning on his military business, then Westerweller and all othere who have business. We usually walk before luncheon, which is at twelve; * Prince and Princess Hermann of Hohenlohe-Langenburg. 38 IlICE, GRAND DUCHESS OJ? HESSE. and often drive at two or tliree. At five we dine; at half -past six, theater, four times a week, till half -past nine; then we take tea together, Louis reads to me and I work. On other week-days there are concerts or parties. We are often in our new house, and in the garden, arranging things and watching the progress. We also go to lectures here, and are much occupied, which makes the day pass so quickly. ^ "^ March 1. I have learned much since I married, and, above all, not to be dependent on others in my existence. To be able to make a bright and comfortable home for my dear husband is my constant aim; but even in this one often fails, for self constantly turns up, like a bad sixpence. Oh, how dear Papa spoke about that! His whole noble life was that one bright example of sacrificing himself to his duty. Dear, adored Tapa! such goodness, such love, when one thinks of it, must silence all complaints of petty troubles in the mouths of his children and servants. You, dear Mamma, are the one who suffers the most, though this awful loss has touched all; and to soothe your grief and to help you lightens one's own. . March 5. \ . . . Spring always makes me so we/iTOw^Mg' [sad], 1 don't know \ •why; one longs for everything and anything which is out of one's Ji reaSi I will tell you of something 1 did. the other day; but please tell no one, because not a soul but Louis and my ladies know of it here. 1 am the patroness of the " Heidenreich Stiftung," to which you also gave a handsome present in the beginning. The ladies who belong to it go to bring linen to poor respectable Wdclmerinnen [women in child-bed], who claim their tissistance. They bring them, food, and, in short, help them. All cases are re- ported to me. The other day 1 went to one incog, with Christa, in the old part of the town— and the trouble we had to find the house! At length, through a dirty courtyard, up a dark' ladder into one little room, where lay in one bed the poor woman and her baby; in the ' room four other children, the husband, two other beds, and a stove. But it did not smell bad, nor was it dirty. 1 sent Christa down with the children, then with the husband cooked -something for the woDi- an; arranged her bed a little, took her baby for her, bathed its eyes —for they were so bad, poor little thing!— and did odds and ends for her. 1 went twice. The people did not know me, and were so nice, so good and touchingly attached to each other; it did one's heart good to see such good feelings, in such poverty. The husband was out of work, the children too young to go to school, and they had only four kreuzers in the house when she was confined. Think of that misery and discomfort! If one never sees any poverty, and always lives in that cold circle of Court people, one's good feelings dry up, and 1 felt the want of going about and doing the little good that is in my power. 1 am sure you will understand this. March 14. My own dear precious Mamma, — These words are for the 16th, the first hard trial of our lives, where 1 was allowed to be with you. Do you recollect when all was over [death of the Duchess of ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 39 Kent], and dear Papa led you to the sofa in the colonnade, and then took me to you? 1 look that as a sacred request from him to love, cherish, and comfort my darling Mother to all the extent of my weak powers. Other things have taken me from being constantly ■with jou; but nothing has lessened my intense love for you, and longing to quiet eveiy pain which touches you, and to fulfill, even in the distance, his request. Oh, darling Mamma, were there words in which 1 could express to you how much 1 am bound up with you, how constantly my thoughts and prayers are yours, 1 would write them. The sympa- thies of our souls can only tell each other how tender my love and gratitude to you is, and how vividly 1 feel every new trial or new thing with you and for you. . . . 1 was with another poor woman, even worse o3, this morning, and on the third day she was walking in the room and nearly fainted from weakness. Those poor people! March 26. ... Yesterday morning at nine we took the Sacrament — all the family and congregation together. The others then stopped for the rest 6t the service, till after eleven. 1 went home, and returned for the English service at twelve. At half -past six, in Ihe Stadtkirche, Bach's " Passion " was given. April 5. To-day is Victoria's birthday. "What a day it was this time last year! Baby has her table in the room next to my sitting-room. Uncle Louis and the rest of the family expected to breakfast with us at twelve. Munich: April 11. . . . To-day, for the first time since the King's death,* the Queen and we all with our Gefolge [suite] dined in the Winter Gar- den. It seemed to try her very much, but she is so wonderfully quiet that she scarcely shows it. 1 was three hours with her yester- day evening. She spoke so kindly of yuu and with such sympathy and Interest, and said, when dear Papa died, she had prayed for you so much. Munich : April 13. . . . Between sight-seeing, and going to the Queen's room, and being with her, 1 have not a moment scarcely to rest or wi'ite. Yes- terday we visited the whole Schloss full of frescoes, and the studios of all the fapous painters — so interesting. How dear Papa would have enjoyed it! 1 was thinking the whole time w^hat he would have thought of certain pictures, and how much he would have admired some. But at all times seeing things, and most of all pict- ures, is fatiguing. Darmstadt: April 21. . . . On Monday Louis goes into the country to shoot caper- cailzies \_Aner]idhne\. 1 accompany him part of the way, but stop at Schweinsberg with Christa's parents. "The air is very good there, and we thought the countiy would do me good. ... "We shall leave probably later [for England], after or just * King Maximilian II. of Bavaria had died on the 10th of the preceding month of March, The Queen is a sister of Prince Louis's mother. 40 ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. before your birthday. We have a great deal to do in London for our house, for which I should want a week; and from Windsor to leave you for a whole week 1 should not like, and to go up con- stantly is rather tiring. We go from Mayence to Rotterdam by steamer, from thence by rail to Antwerp, and then wait for good weather to cross, so that we shall be long under way, but quite easily and comfortably. April 25. . . . We shall leave the week of your birthday. Louis wishes us to have a full fortnight in London. Schweinsberg : April 28. . . . This is a charming country house, in a lovely healthy coun- try; the air has already done me much good. Christa's parents are charming, clever people, and the life is quiet and refreshing. Ou Saturday 1 expect Louis, and then we shall go home. Darmstadt: May 14. Many thanks for your letter, and above all for your great kind- ness about the ships, for which I thank you many times. Christa and Becker wrote an account of the wedding,* so I won't write any more about it save that it went off very weJl and was veiy vorneJini'and well-arranged. ... 1 have borne the fatigues well ; but two days before, for two days and one night, 1 was very unwell. . . . Dr. Weber is a clever man, and is melseitig [many-sided] in his views on medicine and treatment of illnesses. 1 think you will like him. Baby runs alone through two rooms without falling now : she learnt it in a week. She will amuse you so much. Yesterday Louis drove me and his two brothers in a break, and Baby went with us miuch enchanted. May 17. . . . To-morrow afternoon Fritz and Anna leave. To-day the town gives a large ball, to which we all go, and before it there is a dinner at the Schloss. May 21. . . . It is excessively hot, which makes me so tired and weak. I am sure you suffered dreadfully from the heat. The parting from Anna three days ago was dreadful ; she so dis- tressed, and her parents also. . . . They begin their old age alone, so to say, for there are no children in their house any more. It makes us both very sad to leave them, and seems so unfeeling; but we shall return to them soon. What a blessing that you have Bea- trice and two brothers, still boys ; and yet, for one alone what an anxiety ! Marlborough House : May 26. Arrived here at half -past eleven, and quite rested. 1 at once write to you to thank you for your letter and for the great comfort of the ships. I feel so much better already from the air on the Rhine those two days, and the fresh sea air, that I have borne the journey this * Of the Princess Anna of Hesse with the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg- Schw^'in. ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 41 way with but little fatigue. 1 find Bertie and Alix both looking well, and the babj^ so pretty and dear. I slept during the whole night passage, as I Avent to bed early. I had about twelve hours' sleep, which has completely set me up. Louis is paying visits. We have lunched, and in the afternoon Ber- tie and Alix have promised to call on Lady Augusta and Dean Stan- ley, and we join them. Aunt Cambridge and Mary we shall see aftei-ward. [From May to August the Princess was in England on a visit to the Queen.] Kranichstein : August 30. ... I have stood the journej'' well, though 1 am rather fatigued. It is very warm. Louis is off to Jugenheim. 1 am to go there to- morrow, and it takes my whole day, as it is so far. 1 have seen none of the family yet. 1 am so distressed to part from dear Ernest and Marie, they were so dear and good all along the journey. The weather was beautiful and the passage good. September 2. ... 1 am so glad that, from all accounts, everything went oft so very well at Perth;* it must have been most trying to you, and yet satisfactory. "We read all the accounts you kindly sent us with much interest. . . . The Emperor [of Russia] with his second and third sons- arrived yesterday. We saw him at the station at Darmstadt, but did not join them as the rest of the family did. We go to Jugenheim to-day and Baby with us, as little Serge.f who is just Beatrice's age, has such a passion for her. The children are very nice, the two older sons very big. Uncle Gustav is here, which makes me think of you here this time last year. . Septemjtei" 13- . . . Two days ago we had intense heat, and since great cold— the two extremes constantly, which is so unwholesome. The Em- peror is very grateful for your message, and sends his best remem- brance. . . . There were seven young men to dinner yesterday, and your glass was used for the first time and looked so pretty. September 17. , . . The Emperor and Empress [of Russia] before leaving took • a most tender farewell of us, and she gave me their Order. They returned to Darmstadt on the 27th for a fortnight, as it is now set- tled that the Empress is to spend the winter at Nice, and she may not go there till the beginning of October at the soonest, as it would be too warm. . . . We are in the middle of the second volume of Froude,t but it is too detailed to interest you ; you have far too much to do to be interested in it. . . . Robertson's beautiful sermons we have also * The unveiling of a statue of the Prince Consort. 1- Grand Duke Serge. t The History of England from the Fall of Wolsey to the Death of Eliza- beth, 42 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. read together, and I have discovered that a German translation es- ists, and have ordered one. Mrs. Hardlnge* leaves me the end of this month, 1 am sorry to say ; for she is very nice, discreet and ready to do anything, and not at all of the present bad English genre. September 20. . . . What you say about the poor sisters, and indeed of all the younger ones, is true. The little brothers and Beatrice are those who have lost the most, poor little things! 1 can't bear to think of it, for dear Papa, more peculiarly than any other father, was wanted for his children; and he was the dear friend, and even play- fellow, besides. Such a loss as ours is indeed unique. Time only increases its magnitude, and the knowledge of the want is felt more keenly. ... 1 was yesterday in our little house, arranging and clearing out the rooms. We shall have very close quarters, but it will not be uncomfortable. .> . . 1 often wish dear Papa could have seen what a treasure 1 have in my darling; but 1 am sure he does see it, and his blessing with yours rests on us, tor we seem not separated from either of you, our life is so interwoven with yours. Where people are unselfish, loving, good, and industrious, like my dear Louis, I always feel a certain likeness beginning to grow up with our dear angel Father! Don't you? Oh, may we all only become like him! 1 struggle so haid, dear Mamma, in the many lit- tle trials I daily have, to become more like him. Mj trials melt away when 1 think of you, and I wish 1 were great and strong to be able to bear some of your great . trials for you. Dear Mamma, how I love you ! how we both love you, and would shield you with our love from all new blows and trials, you know. God comfort you! My heart is often too full to say all that is in it; to tell you all my love and devotion, for your own precious sake, and for dear Papa's, who left you as a legacy to us all to love and to cherish for him. September 23. To-morrow Louis, 1 and my two ladies take the Sacrament in the little church here. 1 wished much to take it before my hour of trial comes. Dear Louis read to me yesterday evening Robertson's ser-. • mon on the " Sympathy of Christ." We have fine autumn weather, and 1 am out as much as 1 can. . . . I sleep well and bieakfast always at half-past eight; we dine at two, and take supper at eight, then my ladies read aloud, and 1 work or Christa plays, Louis reads his papers, &c. To myself 1 read Lord Malmesbury's Memoirs, which are very curious, and when Louis has time he reads Froude to me. Kranichstein : October 4. . . . To-morrow dear Uncle Leopold [King of the Belgians] comes for a few hours. Louis will go to Darmstadt or Mayence to meet him, and 1 will receive him at the station, as none of the fam- * Wife of General the Hon. Arthur Hardinge, who was on a visit to the Princess, ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 43 ily know hina. Louis is out shooting with the Emperor. Uncle Alexander's throat has already begun to be bad again. ... 1 am writing quite a confused letter in the midst of house- hold troubles, for the Emperor and Empress have just let me know that they wish to breakfast here, and Louis is out, and 1 don't know where or how to have tne things in our small menage. 1 must therefore conclude and do my business. October 1. ... 1 had the pleasure of seeing dear Uncle two days ago look- ing wonderfully well, and kind and dear as ever. . . . To-day I must go to a large fjunily dinner. Fritz and Anna of Hesse, Grand Duchess Marie, and Prince and Princess William of Baden, besides ourselves, the family, and the Emperor and Empress. Darmstadt : October 14. We are at length here, in great disorder, and I have been waiting half an hour onlj'- for a pen to be found. 1 am tired and not very well. ... Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] being with you 1 am very glad of, and she must be such a comfort to you, for, besides being such a friend, she has that peculiar charm of manner which all the Biuces possess. October 21. ... I am so grieved about poor Louise; she will want much care and attention. Lady Car. [Caroline Barrington] is here since yesterday evening, to my great delight, and is not looking the worse for her journey. October 29. . . . To-moirow we expect Vicky and Fritz [Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia] for two hours, and later Bertie and Alix ou their way back from Amorbach, for a few hours. 1 shall be de- lighted to see them. - October 31. . . . Yesterday we had the pleasure of having dear Vicky and Fritz and baby here for two hours, the former well and in suc^ good looks, as 1 have not seen her for long. The baby is a love, and very pretty. We were very glad after a year's separation to meet again, and Vicky was so dear and loving. 1 always admire her understanding and brightness each time 1 see her again; and Fritz so good, so excellent. Bertie and Alix we expect in a day or two for a short visit. It is very cold, but not unpleasant. 1 go out twice a day. ^ Darmstadt : November 7. . . . The little daughter* was but a momentaiy disappointment to us, which we have quite got over. We console ourselves with the idea that the little pair will look very pretty together. November 20. . . . We are both very much pleased at the arrangement about Brown and your pony, and 1 think it is so sensible. 1 am sure it will * The Princess Elizabeth was born on the 1st of November, 1864. 44 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. do you good, and relieve a little the monotonj^ of your out-of-door existence, besides doing your nerves good. I had long wished you would do something of the kind; for, indeed, only driving is not wholesome. ... I have had two drives, which have done me good. . . . My mother-in-law has been kindness itself all along — so attentive and yet so discreet. 1 can't be grateful enough. My good father-in-law also. . . . Louis' mother is to be godmother, because it is customary here to ask some one of the name tne child is to re- ceive to stand on the occasion. We liked Elizabeth on account of St. Elizabeth being the ancestress of the Hessian as well as the Saxon House. November 26. . . . We probably go to Carlsruhe on Wednesday, the only place can well go to near by; we can't take an inn at Baden or anything of that sort, and we only go for a week or ten days at most. ... 1 am very well and very careful ; all people say I look better, and have more color than 1 have had for long, and, indeed, I feel strong and well, and my fat Baby does perfectly, and is a great darling. Affle and Louis and his brother are out shooting. The horrid weather has kept me in these three days. November 29. . . . I ought to mention the christening. My mother-in-law held Baby all the time, and it screamed a good deal. Victoria stood with us and was very good, only kneeling down and tumbling over the footstool every two minutes, and she kept whispering to me, " Go to Uncle's" 1 thought so much of the christening last year, when Yictoria behaved much better than her larger dark sister. Ella measured twenty-three and a half-inches a fortnight ago, and she had not grown then. Victoria, 1 believe, was twenty inches. Carlsruhe: Decembers. . . . Dear Dr. Macleod is coming with Affie to Darmstadt for the 14th. Vicky and Fritz will be with us also. How kind of him to come, and it has made Affie so happy, for he is so devoted to him. Darmstadt : December 10. . . . We returned here yesterday, after a very pleasant stay at Carlsruhe. It was very quiet, and we were always enfamille. We had the opportunity of speaking much with Fritz, who is in every way so distinguished, and dear Louise is so good and kind. I nave very little time to write to-day, as we arrived late lasl night. Louis has to be absent to-day, so 1 have a great deal to do. December 15. I had not a moment to mj^self to write to you yesterday, and to thank you for the kind lines you senfme through dear Dr. Macleod. He gave us a most beautiful service, a sermon giving an outline of dear Papa's noble, great and good character, and there were most beautiful allusions to you in his prayer, in which we all prayed to- gether most earnestly for you, precious Mamma! We talked long together afterward about dear Papa, and about you, and though absent were very near you in thought and prayer. Dear Vicky talked so lovingly and tenderly of you, and of how ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 45 homesick she sometimes felt. She was not with us on that dreadful day three years ago, and that is so painful to her. Dear Affie was, as we all were, so much overcome by all Dr. Macleod said. Yicky, Afl3e, Louis and myself sat in the little dining-room ; lie read to us there. Fritz had left early in the morning. The day was passed quietly and peaceably together, and 1 was most grateful to have dear Yicky and Affie with me on that day. My dear Louis wishes me to express to you how tenderly he thought of you and with what sym- pathy on this sad anniversary. Never can we cease talking of home, of you and of all your trials. God bless and comfort you, my own dear Mamma! 1865 In the month of January of this year the Prince and Princess were at last able to carry out their intentions of visiting Berlin, which had several times been postponed. The Princess met with the gieatest kindness and attention from the King and Queen of Prussia, who had been much attached to her since her childhood. A great grief fell upon the Grand Ducal family through the death of the young Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, Prince Louis's only sister, whose recent marriage had given so much satis- faction to the family, and who died on the 16th of April, a few days after giving birth to a daughter. About the same time, the Cesarewitch Nicholas, eldest son of the Emperor of Russia, died at Nice. He was his mother's favorite son, and had been engaged to be married to Princess Dagmar of Den- mark (present Empress of Russia), the sister of the Princess of Wales. Princess Alice endeavored with all a daughter's love and sympathy to cheer her parents-in-law under their heavy bereavement. While the Prince and Princess were absent in. Switzerland at the Rigi Kaltbad in the Bernese Alps, Queen Victoria spent one day at Kranichstein, and on the 26th of August gathered all her cbildren round her at Coburg. On that day the Prince Consort's statue on the market-place at Coburg was unveiled. The yearly visit to England took place in the autumn, and the Prince and Princess spent a longer time than usual in the High- lands, where they made many delightful excursions. Soon after their return to Germany, the sad news reached them of the death of the King of the Belgians. Endeared by his personal character to his family and friends, he was also by reason of his statesmanlike qualities recognized as one of the most remarkable sovereigns of Europe. Although Princess Alice had lived but a short tirne at Darmstadt, she had already become the acknowledged center of social life in that town. Her liberal and independent spirit, conflicting as it did with many local prejudices, exposed her to many criticisms ; still, no one who came in contact with her could resist the charm of her ap- pearance and manner. The Princess had, so to speak, not ' yet taken root ' in her adopted country; but, acute and close observer as she was, she soon found where her own sphere of occupation lay, and what the agencies were by which she could work out her plans. 46 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Her letters sliow tlie love slie bore to her new family, and the many useful enterprises 'which she now initiated for the wellbeing of the country. January 1. . . . Thousand thanks for your dear words, and for the wishes! 1 was thinking so much of you and of home, when your letter came in. It made me so happy 1 Darling Mamma, lean feel so much with and for you during these days. 1 was all day on the verge of tears, for the very word Neujalir brought Papa and Grandmamma, and all at Windsor as in former days, so vividly before me, it made my heart ache! That bright happy past, particularly those last years, when I was the eldest at home, and had the privilege of being 60 much with you both, my own dearly loved parents, is a remem- brance deeply graven, and with letters of gold, upon my heart. All the morning I was telling Louis how it used to be at home, and how we all assembled outside your dressing-room door to scream in chorus " Prosit Neujalir!" and to give to you and Papa our drawings, writings, &c., the busy occupation of previous weeks. Then play- ing and reciting our pieces, where we often stuck fast, and dear Papa bit his lip so as not to laugh; our walk to the Riding-school [where the alms to the poor were distributed], and then to Frogmore. Those were happy days, and the verj' remembrance of them must bring a gleam of sunshine even to ydh, dear Mamma. Those two dinners, when 1 was with you both, were such happy evenings. 1 am so grateful I remained at home, and lost not a day of those happy ones. At eight this morning we two went to church ; at half -past three there was a large dinner at the Schloss. I wore the bracelet with your pictin-es, as I always do on all particular days, for 1 like to be able to look at those dear faces. January 3. We mean to go out sledging. The cold, and all the ground being white this last month, has given me such bad ej'es. I can do nothing of an evening at all, and reading even by daylight makes them so bad that they get qiiite red. The ladies read to me, instead, all sorts of instructive things. Louis has already found time to read through a whole volume of the Lims of the Engineers* You could not have sent anything that would interest him more. He thanks you so much for the pretty New Tear's wish also. January 14. Thousand thanks for your dear letter, for the nice inclosure from Dr. Macleod, and for the beautiful sermon by Dean Stanley. One remark struck me as singularly applicable to dear Papa, where he says: " To die is gain; to be no longer vexed with the sight of evil, which they cannot contiol," &c. — for dear Papa suffered when he saw others do wrong; it pained that good pure spirit: and though we long for him and want him, if we could call him back — even you who want him so much, 1 think, would pause before you gave vent to the wish that would recall him. . , . * By Dr. Samuel Smiles. ALICE, GRA.ND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 47 "WTien trials come what alone save faith and hope in a blessed future can sustain one ! . . . You can't think how much 1 am interested in every little detail of your daily life. Besides, you know it cannot be otherwise. Please say kindest things to Brown,* who must be a great conven- ience to you. January 20. . . . The more one studies and tries to understand those won- derful laws which rule the world, the more one wonders, worships, and admires that which to us is so incomprehensible; and 1 always wonder how there can be dissatisfied and grumbling people in this beautiful world so far too good for our deserts, and where, after our duty is done, we hope to be everlastingly with those we love, .where the joy will be so great and lasting that present sorrow and trouble must melt away before that sunshine. January 33. . . . We have rain and warm high wind, and leave at four o'clock this afternoon. Ella has her bath as a bed, and Victoria sleeps in the bassinet, which is done up with chintz for the occasion. I don't think they can catch cold. There is a stove in the center com- partment besides. You can fancy 1 feel shy going to Berlin into a perfectly new society; and 1 have been so little out on the whole since the year 1861. Marie Grancyf goes with us. Berlin : January 29. . . . The journey went off very well, and we are so hapy to be here. Vicky and Fritz are kindness itself, and Vicky so dear, so loving! 1 feel it does me good, that there is a reflection of Papa's great mind in her. He loved her so much, and was so proud of her. The King is, as always, very kind, and so pleased to see us here. Louis is very happy to meet his old comrades again, and they equally so to see him; and 1 am so glad that he can have this amuse- ment at least, for he is so kind in not leaving me— and oui- life must be rather doll sometimes for a young man of spirit like him. Berlin: February 1. . . . AflBe arrived at eight this morning. 1 am sure the King will be so pleased at your having let him come now. He is so kind to me; it touches me very much, for 1 have never done anything to deserve it, Berlin : February 4. ... I have not been sight-seeing anywhere, as it is too cold for that. We drive in a shut carriage, and then walk in the Thiergar- ten. We spend the whole day together, which is a great enjoyment to me, and of an evening we go out together. It is so pleasant to have a sister to go out with, and all the people are so kind and civil to us. Sigismund:}: is the greatest darling 1 have ever seen — so wonder- ♦ John Brown, the Queen's faithful personal attendant, t One of the Princess's ladies in waiting. t Then the Crown Princess's youngest child. 48 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. fully strong and advanced for his age—with such fine color, always laughing, and so lively he nearly jumps out of our arms. This house is very comfortable, and Vicky is surrounded with pictures of you and dear Papa — near her bed, on all her tables — and such endless souvenirs of our childhood: it made me quite weMiuthig [sad] to see all the things 1 had not seen for seven years, and since we lived together as children— souvenirs of Christmases and birthdays from you both, and from dear Grandmamma, from Aunt Gloucester, &c. It awakened a thousand old remembrances of happy past times. Berlin: February 7, . . . How much do 1 think of you now, the happy Silver Wed- ding that would have been, where you could have been surrounded hy so' many of us ! Poor Mamma, 1 do feel so deeply for you. Oh, may I be long, if not altogether, spared so awful a calamity! Morning, noon, and night do 1 thank the Almighty for oiir happi- ness, and pray that it may last. These lines are for the dear 10th* though they will reach you on the eve; and they are to tell you from Louis and myself how ten- derly we think of you on that day, and of darling Papa, who made that day what it was. It will be a day of great trial to you, 1 fear. May the Almighty give you strength and courage to bear it ! I am sure the dear sisters and brothers who are at home will try to cheer you with their different loving ways — above all, little Beatrice, the youngest of us all. Louis goes to Schwerin to-morrow until Friday. They wanted us to go together, but one journey is enough at this time of the year, Berlim February 11. . . . We have been sledging these two days; it is very cold, and the rooms mostly very hot. When we go out of an evening, we are packed up from head to foot. My dear Louis returned from Schwerin at five this morning, pleased with his visit. He found the Castle fine and comfortable, and its inmates very happy. Berlin : February 14. . . . We leave next Saturday. 1 shall be so sorry to leave dear Vicky, for she is often so much alone. Fritz is really so excel- lent, it is a pleasure to look at his dear good face ; and he is worked so hard — no health can stand it in the long run. Berlin : February 17. . . . This will be my last letter from here, and 1 only regret leaving here on account of parting with dear Vicky and Fritz, whom we see so rarely, and usually but for a short time. I have passed such pleasant hours with dear Vicky; that is what I shall look back to with so much pleasure and satisfaction. Darmstadt: February 31. I write once more from our dear little home, which 1 find veiy cold ; snow and ice everywhere still — it seems as if winter would. * The anniversary of the Queen's marriage. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 4S never end, "We accomplished our journey very well. Poor Vicky- will miss us very much, I fear, in the many hours when she is alone, and which we spent together. Writing does not make up for it. We give a lai'ge marked ball in the Palace at Fastnacht [Shrove Tuesday], which is to-day week. It is the first thing we do for the society, and 1 hope it will go off well. 1 found so much to do since mj^ retnrn that 1 can write no more. Before closing 1 must mention, though, that yesterday evening I heard EUjali beautifully given. How I thought of dear Papa! Nearly every note brought back to mind observations he made about it. I thought 1 could see him, and hear his dear sweet voice turning round to me with quite watery eyes, saying, " Es ist doch gar zu schon!" [" It is really quite too lovely!"] Adored Papa! how he loved this fine music, the harmony in it seems like the harmony of souls, and Mendelssohn's music is so good, fromm [pious] — 1 mean, it makes one better to hear it. In the second part, in an air of Elijah toward the end, 1 found the part from which those beautiful responses are taken which Cusins arranged, and which Papa liked so much. February 27. ... 1 can write but a very short letter to-day, having so much to do for our ball. I have made a sketch of my costume, which is the same 1 wore at Berlin at the masked ball of the Put- buses. Louis wears part of the Garter costume. March 4. . . . My parents-in-law leave the middle of this month for Schwerin. . . . My mother-in-law fears that Anna will be badly managed and treated quite after the old fashion, and she won't be able to help her, she fears. Anna is not very strong, and if she is starved and kept from the air, it will certainly do her harm. 1 have written to dear Tilla.* To think of home without her seems too sad, but I hope you will invite her sometimes. Everyone, liked her in the house, she was so gentle and so kind. I shall never forget what I owe her, and 1 ever loved her most dearly. But she has never been the same again since 1861. It gave her a dreadful shock; she had such a veneration for darling Papa. 1 hope this year we can show you our house, though it will not be far enough advanced for you to live in. For another year, 1 hope, we could make you so comforable. Darmstadt : March 6. ... I am reading at this moment a book by Herr von Ar- neth — the publication of letters from Maria Theresa to Marie Antoinette from 1770-80. 1 recommend it to you. The letters are short and interesting, and it would amuse you to take it up now and then, when you have a leisure moment. The advice the Empress gives her daughter is so good ; she was a very wise mother. I have read and studied a great deal about the human body; about children — their treatment, &c. It interests me immensely. Besides, it is always useful to know such things, so that one is not perfectly ignorant of the reasons why doctors wish one to do certain things, * Miss Hildyard, the Princess's former English governess. 50 ALICE, GRA.KD DUCHESS OF HESSE. and why not. In any moment of illness, before there is iime for a doctor to come, one can be able to help one's self a little. 1 know you don't like these things, and where one is surrounded by such as dear Sir James [Clark] and Dr. Jenner, it is perfectly unnecessary and pleasanter not to know a good deal. Instead of finding it dis- gusting, it only fills me with admiration to see how wonderfully we are made. Darmstadt : March 11. . . . Westerweller does not accompany ua this time to Eng- land; he may join us in June. A former playfellow of Louis, Fer- dinand Rabenau, accompanies us. Afiie knows him and likes him. We think of starting on the 3rd, and passing by Brussels to see dear Uncle Leopold. Uncle Louis is still at Nice, and does not return here, it seems, until the Emperor and Empress meet for April 24th —the Emperor's biithday. Mj mother-in-law is- very grateful for your kind message. She seems very nervous about Anna. Victoria is teething, which makes her pale and poorly. Ella's vac- cination did not take, and we have the small-pox here. March 18. My poor children have been confined to the house with dreadful colds and coughs. Victoria looks the most pulled, though Ella's cough was much more violent. 1 am happy to say that they are really better to-day ; but we have snow every day, and that makes their recovery slowei. Yesterday night part of a large seed manufactury close by, near the artillery barracks, was burnt down. The flames were enormous, but the damage done was not great. My parents-in-law are in Berlin, and after to-morrow they go to Schwerin. Last night we heard Coslfan tutte given to perfection. The music is most charming, and I had never heard it before. April 1. . . . Since some days the snow is many feet deep; one can get about in sledges, and Louis drove me in one with four horses this morning. All intercourse by carriage is impossible, and this is very inconvenient to the people in the country when their "-Post " cannot drive. April 4. I must begin by telling you how much pleasure your telegram has given me. It is like my own dear Mamma to have her arms open for those who want her kind support; and 1 can only repeat again, that with you, and under your care alone, should 1 like to leave my little ones so long! To them, indeed, it will in every way be an advantage, and I shall be quite easy in leaving them there, where 1 know they will have every care which can be given; and it would make us both so happy to feel that in this way we could give you some little pleasure. Westerweller and Becker both wish very much we may take this winter. D. V. , for a journey. As long as we have fewer serv- ants and this small house, it, is easy to break up the whole establish- ment—later, this will be-less possible. Louis has never been able to ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, 51 travel, and the advantage of seein,^ other parts of the world would be so great for him. Without me he would not dp it; he says, alone he should not enjoy it. 1 urge this journey principally for his sake, and 1 hope you will support me in this. Since our marriage we have seen nothing, and all who can try to enlarge their knowledge. From hooks alone it becomes tedious and less advantageous. Victoria is going to have a party of thirty children to-morrow in Prince Charles's rooms. The snow is thawing at length, and the sun is much too hot. The sudden spring is not pleasant. We have been out riding, and this evening 1 shall accompany Louis to the Schnepfenstrich [woodcock-shooting*], which in a fine evening, when the birds sing, is lovely. . . . April 8. . . . We shall be delighted to receive you in Kranichstein, and if you will send your suite all to Darmstadt we shall be able to arrange, though we have not one spare room anywhere, and I feet you will be rather squeezed. How 1 look forward to meeting you again, after a year of separation, I can't say; and I am so glad that it will be under our roof that our joyful embrace will take place. As Uncle Louis is to have the Garter, may not Afhe bring it to him without ceremony? He would like it so much better, if it can be so. On the 17th Louis goes to Oberhessen to shoot capercailzies, and he deposits me and the children at Lich on his way, where he will join us again for my birthday. Anna was safely delivered of a little girl this morning, and is doing well. April 15. . . . We have been very anxious about Anuaf the last few days, for she has had fever since the 9th, and shivering still yesterday. We have a great deal to do this morning, so 1 can write but shortly. We have fine weather at length, and are out a great deal. Yesterday we took the Sacrament at nine, and numbers of people with lis. Tiie service lasted till past eleven, with a pause between. April 18. This is really a dreadfully sad death in our family, and will be a blow to my dear parents-in-law, whicn will weigh them down for many a day. They who lived so retired, and to whom the family life was all — Anna the pet — " das Prinzesschen, " whom they gave up so unwillingly, and with whom they corresponded daily! It will be a blank in their existence, which 1 can't bear to think of! Such tender loving parents! My poor Louis was dreadfully distressed, though he feared the worst all along since we knew that Anna had fever. He left with Grolmann, having passed a dreadful morning. All the old servants, tutors, friends, came crying to us. Since he is gone 1 have passed sad lonely hours: and poor old Amelung| comes ♦ This sport is practiced in the evening twilight. t Prince Louis's sister, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. She died on the 16th of April, 1865. X Nurse of the Prince Louis and his brothers and aister. 52 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. and sits in my room, sobbing tliat she should ever bave lived to see this day. Yesterday morning I went to the Rosenhohe andpicked flowers from Anna's garden, and wound a large wreath, which 1 have sent to Louis to place on her cotfin. The three brothers feel it dreadfully — the first rent in the family circle is always hard to bear, aindsheso young, so good, so happy! 1 hear the poor little baby is nice. Yesterday night Anna was taken into the Schlosskirche [Palace Chapel] upon Louis's arrival, after a journey of twenty-seven hours. I hope he won't be ill after all this Gemiithsbewegung [strain upon his feelings], and fatigue always upsets him and makes him sick, and he feels all so deeply and warmly. It is so shocking. 1 can think of nothing else; and I am very low and sad being so alone, and the warm weather makes one unwell. The poor Cesarewitch has passed a tolerable night. 3. fear he is so reduced he can't get through it. The Empress doats on this son, and he is so like her. The poor Emperor has left for Nice. April 21. Oh, it is sad, very sad! Life indeed is but a short journey, on which we have our duty to do, and in which joy and sorrow alter- nately prevail. Anna was very good, very unselfish, and a true Christian, with her gentle, humble spirit, and as such she was loved and admired. What rare people my parents-in-law and their chil- dren are, 1 can't tell you— -such childlike faith, such pure unselfish love to each other; I really feel unworthy to belong to them, and they are dear to me beyond description. As I have shared their joys, so with all my heart do 1 share their sorrow, and fervently pray for them ! You will understand this, darling Mamma. From you I have inherited an ardent and sympathizing spirit, and feel the pain of those 1 love as though it were my own. To-morrow 1 have wished that there should be in the Palace Chapel a funeral service at the same time as the funeral at Schwerin, and all the people here seemed pleased at my wish. Bender, who taught her, confirmed her, and who married her not a year ago in that very church, will perform the service. Poor Dagmar! what a journey for her, poor child! She begins her troubles early enough. April 24. . . . Many thanks for your kind letter, and for all the kind wishes for my birthday. It will be sad and quiet; but 1 hope my beloved Louis will arrive to-night, and be with me again— such cause for joy and thankfulness. When 1 have Mm, all sorrow is turned into peace and happiness. Could I but know you still had darling Papa at your side, how light would my heart be ! Once when we have all fulfilled our allotted duties, and overcome that dark night, then, please God, we shall be together, never again to part! The sympathy of all does my sorrowing family good, for it soothes so much! 1 bad a few lines, so tender, so full of faith, from my dear mother-in-law to-day. Since Ella's birth I know to understand and love her most dearly. She suffered dreadfully, but no com- plaint passes her lips. She consoles her husband, her son-in-law, ALICE, GEAN'D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 63 and this, with her prayer, enables her to hear that which has almost broken her heart. April 35. . . . Dear Louis returned last night well, and bringing good accounts of his parents. They remain there still a little longer, to arrange Anna's things. At Frankfort, at eleven last night, we met; it was so wami. The poor Cesarewitch is gone! The Emperor and Empress are coming here in ten days; w^hat sad meetings! How warm it has been daily since a fortnight, 1 can't tell you! , We sit all day in the garden, lake tea there, drawing-lessons, &c. i April 29. 1 thank you so much for your kind sympathizing letter. All my family are so grateful for all the kindness and sympathy you have shown tUem on this sad occasion. To-day Uncle Louis arrives; on Monday the Emperor and Em- press, and children. What a sad meeting! They go to Jugenheim direct, where last year they were so happy all together. I hear the Empress is worn out, mind and body; and she insists, instead of fin- ishing her cure, on going in a fortnight to St. Petersburg to meet the remains of her child, and to do him the last honors. Louis fears that it will be more than her feeble frame can endure. In the Greek Church, too, the night Masses are long and exhausting, and she is sure to wish to do all. We spent my birthday as every other day, and the weather was heavenly. I am painting in oil now, and that interests me much. I find it much easier than water-colors. 1 hope Affie will come to pay his respects to the Eussians. If you send them a kind message through him, it would please them much. May 3. . . . How well 1 understand your compassion being alike for mourners in all positions of life. It is but right and natural, and I can't imagine one's feeling otherwise. May 6. To-morrow morning my poor parents-in-law arrive. What a meeting, and what a return! My father-in-law and the Empress* are each other's favorites, and understand each other so perfectly. It will be a consolation to both to pour their hearts out to each other, and share each other's sorrow. My dear father-in-law wrote to Aunt Marie: " Although my heart is sorely depressed, yet it is even more filled with gratitude than with sorrow, that the good God has given us two such dear children, though but for a brief space." He is so touching in his grief. May 8. I find my dear parents-in-law pretty well, but poor Mamma so terribly tired. She was dreadfully overcome in coming home, and at the several meetings. He looks much, older, as, indeed, does also the poor Emperor, who parted yesterday to go to St. Petersburg. Dear Aunt Marie seems very weak, and they both, together with my * She was the ouly sister of Priuce Charles of Hesse. 54 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. parents, make sucli a sad picture to look at. But they aH -like to speak of those they have lost. My parents-in-law and we go this week to Uncle Louis to Seeheim for three weeks. Seeheim ; May IS. You can't think what real pleasure your pretty locket gave my mother-in-law. She was deeply touched by the kind thought and the considerate attention of the gift — with what was engraved on it. She was so very much pleased with it, and put it in the moment she received it. The photograph is to be put in. To-day, Anna's wed- ding-day, it arrived. We have been here since yesterday afternoon — my parents-in-law and Uncle Louis. The suite are on leave of absence, so we are quite enfamille. Yesterday, Serge's birthday, we went with Uncle and Aunt to the Greek Mass, which lasted more than an hour, We dine daily at the Heiligenberg. This morning also we were there with our parents and children; and Aunt Marie [the Empress of Kussia] kept Ella half an hour on her Jap, playing with her, which the little one en- joyed very much, as she is particularly sociable and amiable. Vic- toria romped with her cousins— Aunt Marie's two, and Uncle Alex- ander's four. Seeheim : May 15. . . . To-day Michael and Cecile arrive, and on Tuesday the Emperor and Empress recommence their journey homeward. The return will be for both most trying. Aunt Marie spoke with me about her sons, their education, &c., very long last night. Her whole life she has studied and lived for Nike [the late Cesare witch],, that he might become that which was necessary for his future ; and she was much more with him, and they were both much more in- timate together, than she is with her other children. AfHe came here on Saturday, andl am so glad to have him and hear some news of you. At this moment he and William are in the room shooting at a target out of the window, which makes no little noise. May 20. . . . We mean to remain here in the Bergstrasse with our parents; it seems to console them; but my father-in-law makes me very anxious, and is so nervous. Poor Mamma! so soft, so tired, so unlike herself, celafait fitie. On the 5th the Grand Duke is going to receive the Garter. You shall have an account of all. Affle is here, and to-day dear Arthur comes for a few hours. L shall be so pleased to see him again, Seeheim : May 31. . . . Yesterday the Emperor and Empress and children left. So sorry to see them go! God knows when we shall all meet here again. We have been so much together, and so intimately, that I have grown very iond of them, and am very sad at the thought of the long and uncertain separation. Dear little Arthur was here, looking very well. The wooded hills here are so nice to ride about on, and the country is very beautiful. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSB. 55 May 31. I read serious books a ereat deal, and of a Sunday together we read out of Eobertson's sermons. In the second series there is one, " The Irreparable Past " for young people, so cheering, so encourag- ing, so useful. Louis read it to me on his return from Schwerin after poor Anna's death. A short life indeed, and it makes one feel the uncertainty of life, and the necessity of labor, self -denial, char- ity, and all those virtues which we ought to strive after. Oh, that I may die, having done my work and not sinned with Unterlassung des Gnten [omission to do what is good], the fault into which it is easiest to fall. Our life being so quiet gives one much time for earnest thought, and 1 own it is "discouraging to find how much one fails — how small the step of improvement is. 1 sufier still so much, and so often, from rheumatism. 1 am tak- ing warm soda-baths in the morning for it, and am rubbed after- ward with towels which have been dipped in cold water and then wrung out. It is not very pleasant. June 4. .- . . The weather is very beautiful, and we had tea yesterday at Schonberg, the castle of young Count Erbach, whom Louis pre- sented to you at "Windsor. Could you tell us for certain when you intend going to Coburg, and when we are expected there, as we are going to the sea to bathe for Victoria and myself, and we would arrange our time accordingly? 1 require some sea air after the great heat, and after baby's weaning; also before Scotland it would be good, for I have so much rheumatism. Some sea water will strengthen me. June 7. . . . You know how very Scotch we both are. Louis is de- votedly attached to Scotland and his Scotch friends. Do tell them so always. But now I must tell you of yesterday. In the morning Affie, we, and our suite, drove into town for the investiture. At half -past three 1 drove with my ladies, a Kammerherr [Chamber-, lain], Becker, &c., to the Schloss, where Uncle Louis received us in shorts ! Then Affie and Louis in their whole Garter dress arrived in a carriage with six horses and an escort. Uncle Louis, before the throne, and the family, Court, corps diplomatique, &c., received them. Affie read in English the address, to which Uncle Louis an- swered in German; then Affie buckled on the Garter; then Louis helped him to put on ribbon, cloak, &c., and fastened the sword on him, which was no easy task; but they acquitted themselves to per- fection, and went out through the long Kaisersaal backward, bow- ing. There was a large dinner afterward, at which your health was proposed by Uncle Louis, and in return Affie gave his. You have made a happy man, and he feels the honor — as he said to me in En- glish — " utmostly;" and he wishes me to repeat once more how grateful he is to you. . . , Affie did not return here last night; he slept at Darmstadt, and left this morning for Amorbach. To-day Uncle Ernest Is coming to us. but only for one night. As we have again to go into town to fetch him, and it is very warm, 1 must close. 06 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Seeheim : June 15, . . . How it will amuse and please us to show the good excel- lent Scotchmen our home. It is a pleasure toliear of such devotiois and attention to you as Brown's is, and indeed you are so kind to him, that his whole happiness must consist in serving so good a mis- tress. 1 think you will be pleased to hear of a most kind and touching tribute which the Frauen [women] of Darmstadt have paid me. Two hundred and fifty have subscribed to have a splendid picture painted for me, by P, "Weber, of Loch Katrine. 1 am to see it ort Simday. It is very much admired, and they sent the painter to« Scotland to do it, thinking that something from my own country would please me most, is it not kind of them? It has given me so much pleasure— bul of all things the feeling which has prompted them to do it, as it shows me that, though I have been here so short a time, they have become attached to me, as I ain with all my heart to my new home and country. 'Now about myself. I have weaned Ella, last Saturday, arid can only say that my health has never been so good, nor have I been so strong or looked so fresh and healthy as I do now. When Uncle Ernest saw me he said I looked agsfin as I did as a girl, only rather fatter. Ella crawls now, and is very strong; she has- her first two teeth, Victoria is very wild, and speaks more German than English. I think her rather small, but other people say she is not. She goes out walking with her Papa before breakfast quite alone, with her hands in her pockets, and amuses him very much. June 19, Many thanks for your last letter from dear Balmoral. The part- ing from that lovely place must always be sad, and there is some- thing in mountains which attaches one so much to that scenery. Yesterday was a very ti7ing day for my poor mother-in-law (her birthday), and she was very low, but, as all along, so resigned, so touching in the beautiful way she bears her grief; so unselfish with • it, never wishing to make others sad, or to be less interested in their concerns than formerly. Dear Mary Cambridge has been here, and we enjoyed her visit so much. "W e took her back to Frankfort to-day, where we gave her and Aunt Cambridge a luncheon in Uncle Louis' Palais. June 31. It is warm, but very windy and dusty here; we were- nearly blinded out riding yesterday evening. 1 am reading that most inter- esting History of England by Pauli, in German, which commences with the Congress of Vienna in 1815, and is, 1 believe, very detailed and correct. It gives a sketch also of the reign of George III., and is so well Avritten one can scarcely lay the book down. It is part of a work written by the best German professois on England, Russia, Italy, France, Spain, and Austria in those years, and I am reading them one after another. They are thick books, and eight volumes. Kranichstein : July 2. We both thank you for your kind wishes tor our wedding-day. It was rainy and not fine, but we spent it very happily indoors—Affle ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 57 and Mary with us. Dr. Weber now wishes (as we should have to go from Blaukeuberghe back to Coburg, and then again all the journey back), that 1 should not bathe at all this year, as all the good would be undone by the hurried journey, and the excitement of the cea air might not be good for Victoria. We are all to go instead for four weeks to Switzerland, beginning wiih Rigi Kaltbad, and this we greatly prefer. We go into the mountains at once for the bracing- air. On Saturday until Tuesday we go to Baden for the christening of the baby. We both are god-parents. Kranichstein : July 10. . . . Ella already says, since some time, " Papa" and " Mam- ma." and calls herself, and crawls, and is very forward and merry — such a contrast tc> Victoria, who is so pale and fair, and noxo thin, for Ella's eyes are so dark blue, and her hair of such a rich brown, that you would never take the little things for sisters. They are very fond of each other, and so dear together, that they give us much pleasure. I would not change them for boys, if 1 could; this little j)air of sisters is so nice, and they can be such friends to each other. 1 hope you will be comfortable here, but we are much annoyed not to be able to be there to receive you. None of the family will be here, save perhaps my mother-in-law with poor Fritz Schwerin, who is expected then. We mean to start on the 35th, and we go as private people, on ac- count of the expense. We are only going to the Oberland, and sha'n't go very far about. Kranichstein : July 17. ... It was 95o in the shade yesterday at eight in the morning, and 1 think the heat increases. Dr. Lj^on Playfair lunched with us yesterday; he is so charming. To-morrow morning at five we go to Bonn for the day, and shall be there before ten. The heat is too jgreat to go at any other time. We start next Tuesday evdiiing, and on Wednesday shall be on the Rigi. This morning at six o'clock we rode to the exercising — I on a new horse, for two hours and a half over sand without any shade. Mary [Duchess of Teck] has been so kind as to give us a boat, ■which we expect shortly. It is to be christened " Mary Adelaide," after her. July 24. Many thanks for your letter, and for the sad account of Victoria Brand's* death. - It is quite shocking, and she was my dearest friend of those contemporaries, and the one 1 saw the most of. ' ' In the midst of life we are in death;" and the uncertainty of all earth- ly things makes life a real earnest, and no dream. Our whole life should be a preparation and expectation for eternity. Merry as she was, she was yet very serious and thoughtful; but what a loss she "will be to her poor parents and husband ! 1 have made all arrangements for jj-our comfort here. 1 own I do not like your coming here when we and the whole family are away —it looks so odd. 1 forgot to tell you, in answer to your question * Daughter of M. Van de Weyer, the Belgian Minister Plenipotentiary in England. She had been thrown out of her carriage, and died from the effect ■of the injuries received. 58 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. about Ella's name, that she of course must be called " Elizabeth," entrerious only "Ella," for she hears my dear mamma-in-law's name Rlgi Kaltbad : August 1. I am enchanted, delighted with this magnificent scenery. Oh, how you would admire it! When 1 am sketching, 1 keep telling Louis how much more like you would make the things; one can al- ways recognize the places when you draw them. We left Darmstadt at eight Wednesday morning, the 26th, slept at Basel that night, and we got there early enough to see the fine church in a thunderstorm. The next day we only went to Lucerne, as the weather was not fine enough to ascend the Rigi. It was a lovely afternoon, and the lake of a marvelous green color. The Pilatus was quite clear for a few hours. The next morning we two, the chil- dren, Moffat, Harriet, the nursery-maid, Logoz and wife, Jager, and Beck, our whole party, started in a very crowded steamer for WSg- gis. Splendid weather, though cloudy. We then, on horses and in chairs carried by three or six men, made our ascent along a wind- ing, narrow, steep path, below rocks, past ravines, where little chS- lets are situated, and all over the green pasture cows and goats feed- ing with bells round their necks. Westerweller was here when we arrived; he acts courier, and when we make long expeditions re- mains with the children. This is a very roomy hotel, crammed full of people, among them some old Austrian ladies whom we see below walking on the terrace — very, smart, and smoking. We two have been on mules with a guide — such a funny man, who was a soldier at Naples, and was at the siege of Gaeta — on all the expeditions hereabout. To-morrow we leave, and go till Monday to Buochs, on the other side of the lake; then to Engelberg, where Uncle Adalbert and his wife wilLbe. The children are well; Victoria very troublesome, but Ella good and amiable as ever. As 1 am writing at the window, the clouds cover the lake and the lower mountains, and 1 can only see the quite high ones with glaciers, which are of such a splendid shape. The color of the Scotch mountains is, 1 think, finer; but here they are, first of all, so enormously high, and then such fine shapes, and the mountains are studded with trees and rocks down below, and of a green color. The air is very light and cold, but the sun intense. We are going off for the day again on our mules, so 1 must close. Of course many funny incidents lake place, which 1 reserve to tell you wher^ we meet. 1 do hope the heat will* be over for your journey, and that it will be fine when you are at our dear Kranichstein. Marie Grancy will be there to receive you, and do anything which is required. Engelberg, Hotel Titlis : August 8. These lines 1 send by Becker, and hope you vvill receive them at Kranichstein. ... 1 hope you found all you wanted in the rooms, and that the meals were as you like them. I ordered all, and wrote all down before leaving, as 1 know what you like. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 59 We were for some days at Bnoclis, a very pretty village; and we lived in three detachments in different common Swiss houses, very comfortable on the whole, but not smelling very nice, so that I could scarcely eat while we were there. Yesterday morning, in a very funny two-seated carriage with one horse, we left, the children and servants following in a bigger car- riage. A nearly four hours' drive through the most beautiful scenery, up a narrow valley thiough which the A.a runs, brought us here. The last two hom-s are a steep ascent on the side of a preci- pice; beautiful vegetation through the wood all the way upward; view on the high mountains with snow and glaciei*s close by. On coming to the top, there is a narrow and lovely green valley studded with peasants' cottages, and in the center a Benedictine Abbey, near which our hotel is situated. The valley is of very green grass; the tops of the mountains quite rocky, with snow. Lower down, and skirting the valley, which is quite shut in by the hills, fine trees; several very high waterfalls, in the style of the Glassalt (near Bal- moral), only much higher. This Alpine valley is said to give the most perfect idea of a'Swiss valley up in the mountains. One can ascend the Tillis; but it is said to be dangerous, so we shan't at- tempt it. We are very careful, and Louis won't undertake any- thing risky. The sceneiy seen from the carriage merely is so splendid that one may well be content with that. Unfortunately, today it pours, and it is very cold. The children are very well. The jour- ney has really done Victoria good, and she begins to have an appe- tite, which with her is a very rare thing. The next place we go to is Meyringen. We mean to ride there over the Joch Pass, hut the children must go back the same way to get round, aa there is no other way out of this valley. We will leave them then with Westerweller, and go to the Grindelwald, Inter- laken, &c. ; and then return home by the 29th probably. The chil- dren are living in a cottage here also. Pension Belle Vue, Tracht bei Brienz : August 14. . . . Our ride from Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meyringen was quite beautiful; but a worse way than any we have ever been out on in Scotland. We were eleven hours on the road, and the sun was very hot, and the walking on these steep bad paths made one still hotter; but we enjoyed it very much, and 1 never saw anything grander or more magnificent. ... 1 have made little scribbles on the way. ... To day we two witji two horses were to have walked and ridden to the Grindelwald, over the Rosenlaui glacier, and to have gone on the next day to Interlaken, but the weather is so bad that it is impossible, and, not being satisfied with the prices, &c., at the hotel' of Meyringen, we came on here, an hour's drive, near to the beautiful falls of the Giessbach, which we saw on Sun- day. . . . The weather will determine whether we can make an expedition to morrow. We shall be home on Friday by Thun and Basel, where we sleep. What daf are we to be at Coburg, and for how long exactly? 1 be- lieve only two or three days. The white heather is from above Engelberg, near Brieux. 60 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Pension Belle Vue : August 15. 1 have this instant received your dear letter from Kranichstein, and, though only just returned from an expedition to the Rosenlaui glacier, 1 sit down at once to thank you with all my heart for such dear lines. How glad 1 am all was comfoi table, and that you were pleased with your day in our nice KranichsteinI 1 am glad you missed us a little. . . . But 1 must tell you of to-day. We drove to Reichenbach, close to the falls, took a guide and horses, and in two hours by a steep stony path got to Rosenlaui. The view on the Wetteihorn, covered with snow, and on the Wellhorn, which Is a rugged rock on the othei side of it, the white sparkling glacier, is quite beautiful. The shapes and immense height of the mountains are so imposing. 1 look, admire, wonder; one can't find words to express what one feels. How you would admire the scenery ! Papa was so fond of it all. Kranichstein : August 21. These will be my last lines until we meet. We returned here well, having unfortunately, though, much rain from Interlaken to Basel. At Thun we M^ere in the same hotel as Blanche and Made- moiselle Bernard, and to-morrow we expect Uncle Nemours, Mar- guerite, and Alencon, whom we asked to dinner on their way to Frankfort. 1 am mostly at the Rosenhohe with my mamma- in-law, as she is quite alone. 1 was in town with her, and read to her this morning; she is ever so dear and kind. 1 do love her so much. Ever since Ella's birth we have been drawn so closely to each other, and I admire her also now that 1 know and understand her. There is so much beneath, so much Qemuth, tenderness, and delicacy of feeling, it is indeed a blessing to have such people as they are for parents-in-law. September 1. Uncle George was here yesterday. Vicky remains with us till the 5th, and it gives me so much pleasure to be able to repay her for her hospitality this winter. We were at the christening of Becker's baby, which went off so well. In the morning we had had to go through High Mass for the inauguration of the Grand Duchess's monument in the Catholic church. Poor papa-in-law, who went to bathe for his headache, has had such a return of his cough that he is coming back here on Monday. 1 hope they will go to Switzerland later. Kranichstein September 8. . . . After having missed the train they intended to come by, Bertie and Alix arrived at 'three o'clock. They dined with us. Louis then took him to the theater, and 1 drove her about. My poor father-in-law's throat is very bad, and gives him much pain. I am really very anxious about him. We leave to-morrow afternoon at four, and shall spend the fol- lowing day at Ostend, embarking in the evening. Till the end of the week we intend stopping in town, and if Bertie and Alix remain longer we shall leave by the limited mail (for Balmoral.) Inverness : October 8. This is a very fine town, and the country is very beautiful. We took a walk this morning, and shall drive this afternoon. It ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 61 was thought better not to go to a kirk, as the people seemed to look out for us. Again a thousand thanks for having arranged this nice journey for us, which we enjoy so much. 1 thought so much of you and dear Papa yesterday during our ride.* Sandringham : November 16. ... I am pleased that the children are well under your roof. 1 know they have all they can want. Bertie had such a bad tooth- ache yesterday : Louis also a little ; the cold air must V e the cause, for it is so sharp here. Alix and I practice together for an houi of an evening. . . . Alix drove me down to the sea the other day, and a most alarming drive it was, for the horses pulled, and to our astonishment the coachman suddenly alighted between us, with his feet in the air, from the back seat, and caught hold of the reins — it was too funny. 1 hope to be near your again on Saturday. Coblenz : November 25. . . . Having just a quarter of an hour to myself before leav- ing this, 1 hasten to write to you a few lines to tell you that we have traveled quite well so far. May will have told you about our passage. 1 have been sick ever since, which is dreadful. Henry and William joined us at Bonn, and came here with us. The Queen was- most kind. We spent the evening most pleas- antly C7i/aw^^7fo with her, and whilst we dined alone together she had to go to a town ball. Darmstadt : November 28. ... 1 find my father-in-law looking better, 1 am happy to say, though far from strong; and alas! one of his lungs is affected. Though, with care, one can^ guard him from evil consequences, still of course it is an anxious thing. All the family are very grateful for your kind messages, and send their respects to you. . . . The children are very well, and Victoria said to my mother, " Meine Grossmamma, die Koniginn, has got a little vatch with a birdie, ' ' and she is always speaking of all at Windsor, but principally of the things in your room. 1 am so glad that you are pleased with the children's picture. I admire it so much. It is warm and damp here. ... 1 have a great deal to do. . . . We have been over the new house yesterday, and alas! found many things not quite what they were intended to be. . . . Darmstadt : December 5. Many thanks for your letter received yesterday, with the account of Lenchen's Verlobung [betrothal]. I am so glad she is happy, and 1 hope every blessing will rest on them both that one can possibly desire. 1 had a letter from Marie Brabant two days ago, where she says dear Uncle's [King Leopold's] state is hopeless; but yesterday she telegraphed that he was rather better. What a loss it would be if he were to be taken from us, for his very name and existence, though he takes no active part in politics, ai-e of weight and value. Yesterday 1 was painting in oils, and 1 copied my sketch of the * See Leaves from a <7oi(raoZ— Grantown, 1860. 62 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Sluggan, and, if it be in any way at all presentable and fit to give, 1 will send it to yon, 1 hope it won't be very Chinese, for our sketches had a certain likeness to works of art of that country. Louis is very busy here. He has begun his military duties; he Jias the command and- Verioaltung [administration] of the Cavalry Brigade. To-day he has to go to the Chamber, and he is going to attend the different offices — home department, finances, justice, &c. — so as to get a knowledge of the routine of business. . . . Louis of Portugal and family passed through here yesterday, and went to Frankfort. 1 have inquired if they are there still, and if they are we shall try to see them. 1 am so curious to see Marie Pia. . . . All our Hoptaat [Court circle] lay their good wishes forLenchen's engagement at your feet Dai-mstadt : December 8. We are so grieved and distressed at dear Uncle Leopold's alarm- ing state, and have given up all hope, the accounts are so bad. . Oh, were there but a chance for you, or for any of us who love him so dearly, to be near him during his last hours! December 11. Many thanks for your letter. Alas, alasl beloved Uncle Leopold is no more! How much for you, for us, for all, goes with him to the grave ! One tie more of those dear old times is rent ! 1 do feel for you so much, for dear Uncle was indeed a father to you. Now you are head of all the family — it seems incredible, an^ that dear Papa should not be by your side. The regret for dear Uncle Leopold is universal — he stood so high in the eyes of all parties ; his life was a history in itself — and now that book is closed. Oh, it is so sad, and he is such a loss! 1 am almost glad this sorrow has fallen into those days already so hallowed by melancholy and precious recollections. How I recollect every hour, every minute of those days. In thinking of them one feels over again the hope, the anxiety, and lastly the despair and grief of that irretrievable loss. The Almighty stood by you and us, and enabled us to bear it, for I always wonder that we lived through that awful time. The future world seems so like a real home, for there are so many dear ones to meet again. There is something peculiarly sad in the death of the last one of a large family — to feel that none is left to tell of each other, and of their earlier life, which the younger ones could know only through their ^ips. December 15. Many thanks for your letter. 1 was so anxious to hear some- thing of our beloved Uncle's end; it seems to have been most peaceful. There will be many Princes at Brussels, 1 believe. How much I thought of you and of dear Papa on the 14th ! Dear Louis leaves me this afternoon. He will reach Brussels at five to- morrow morning, and remain over the Sunday. The accession of a new King and the honors that have at once to be paid are so painful, following so closely on the death of one we have loved and known in that position. As the French sa.y : " Le Roi est mort. Vive le Roi!" ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 63 December 20. ... I was sitting up for Louis till half-past eleven with Countess Blucher — who leaves to-day, and has spent a few days with me — when he, and to my astonishment Bertie also, came into the room. The next day, alas! he had to leave again at four; but still, short as his stay was, it was a token of his constant love for me, and it touched me very much, for 1 ever loved him so dearly. Everything went off well at Brussels, as you will have heard. The more 1 realize that we shall never see beloved Uncle Leopold again, the sadder 1 grow. He had, apart -from all his excellent qualities, such a charm as I believe we shall seldom find again. The dear Countess is well. We made the dining-room into a bed- room for her, and we dined downstairs. I was so afraid of her get- ting cold, if she lived out of the house. Darmstadt : December 34. . . . How 1 wish beloved Uncle were brought to Windsor to rest there as he had wished ! I wondered so much that everything had taken place at Laeken, knowing that dear Uncle had wished it otherwise. Uncle Louis wishes me to thank you once more for the Christmas eatables, and my mother-in-law likewise for the lovely little frame and photograph. They are both much touched by this kind atten- tion on your part. Christmas Day. ... To me Christmas is always sad now, and for Louis and his family it was so likewise this year; my parents-in-law felt it veiy much. We went to the Military Church at eight this morning. It is the service we like best; but it was bitterly cold, everything snow white. 1 hope my little picture, though very imperfect, found favor in your eyes. It gave me such pleasure doing it for you, thinking of you and our expedition the whole time 1 was doing it. December 30. This is my last letter this year. In many ways a happy one has it been, though it has deprived us of many dear and near ones. Each year brings us nearer to the Wiedersehen [reunion with the dead], though it is sad to think how one's glass is running out and how lit- tle good goes with it, compared to the numberless blessings we re- ceive. Time goes incredibly fast. E^ery earnest and tender wish from us both is yo\irs, dear Mamma, for this coming year with its expected events. May God's blessing rest on this new union which is to be formed in our family, and may dear Lenchen be as happy as all those who loved her can wish ! I am so sorry to think that 1 shall probably not see her again until she is married; but I am glad for her sake that the Brauistand [the betiothal period] is not to be long. I send you a locket with EUa's miniature, which I hope will please you. 64 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. AT HOME AND AT WOBK 1866-1872. " Life is meant for work, and not for pleasure " {2Qth August, 1866). 1866. This year, which brought such important changes to the political life of Germany, was also in many ways full of sorrow and trouble to the Princess, and the hard and painful struggle through which Germany passed affected her very nearly. During the early part of the year, the new palace was completed, and in it the Princess had the satisfaction of seeing her wishes real- ized, and of feeling both comfortable and " at home." She was also able during this new year to extend the field of her practical use- fulness. Princess Alice attended some very interesting lectures on the ne- cessity of providing special asylums for poor idiots, delivered by a very clever and enterprising ^' orthodox " clergyman from the Oden- waid. She took up the idea most warmly, and determined to found such an institution herself, but in doing this found herself face to face with very serious difficulties. The lecturer and those who sided with him wished that any institution of this kind should bear a strictly religious stamp. The Princess did not agree in this view. She wished to separate the religious from the practical part of the work. She wished people to feel that they were bound to help to alleviate sickness and suffering (in whatever form) out of mere love to their fellow-creatures, and not only as the fulfillment of a reli- gious duty. "While the Princess always acknowledged the value of religious motives in carrying out works of charity, she felt strongly, in this particular case, that the treatment of idiots should be left to the medical profession, without any foreign interference. A committee was formed of persons who shared the Princess's views, and who were commissioned by her to take the necessuiy steps for carrying out her plans. By far the most difficult part of the work fell to her own share — namely, that of finding the neces- sary funds To obtain these she. organized a Bazaar in her new palace. This was a totally novel proceeding in Germany, and well calculated to attract, a large number of visitors. The Bazaar was opened on the 6th of April, and lasted four days. The "Princess with Prince Louis and her brother, Prince Alfred, took an active part in it. The result surpassed utmost expectations, a success mainly due to her own personal efforts, and to the charm which she exercised over all. At the close of the Bazaar she was not only able to announce that she had realized the sum of 16.000 florins, but that she had also gained the conviction that the whole country supported her in her undertaking. In spite of the success of this Bazaar, the Princess was in later years opposed to a repetition of such an expedient, as she felt — what ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 65 many do — that people often come on such occasions for their own personal amusement rather than to aid the charity. The war of 1866, which was the consequeace of the imfortunate conflict about the Duchies of Schleswig-Holstein, was viewed by the Princess with feelings in whicJi personal interests and attachments conflicted with political convictions. She was so truly German that she felt most keenly the struggle between Germans and Germans, or, as she herself says in one of her letters, " brother against brother." At times she could not help being downcast, because she saw how much her husband and her husband's country suffered from it, and because she foresaw how disastrous to South Germany the results of such a war must be. Prince Louis himself was soon obliged to assume his command in the field. The Princess gave birth to a third daughter on the 11th of July, during the most anxious days of that trying time. Prince Louis had happened to be home on leave for a few days when the event took place; but he was obliged to leave the Princess on the 14th of July, and to go at once into action at Aschafienburg. As the South-Ger- man troops had to retreat, all communication with his home for some time was cut off. On the 21st of July the Prussians under General von GSben en- tered Darmstadt. Prince Louis' parents, who were the only rela- tions remaining in Darmstadt, were daily with the Princess. On the 8th of August, whilst on her way home from visiting her parents- in-law, the Princess unexpectedly met the Prince in the street. He had obtained leave of absence during a short armistice. The joy of this meeting can easily be pictured! The Prince and Princess together visited the wounded; and on the 10th of August the Prince was appointed by the Grand Duke to the command of the Hessian division then in the field. By the Grand Duke's wish the Prince went for two- days to Berlin, and then joined the troops in Rhenish Hesse. He took up his quarters in the " Gelbe Haus " at JSTierstein- Oppenheim, and the Princess courageously shared them with him — in spite of the cholera then raging there. On the 12th of September —Prince Louis' birthday — the little Princess was christened at Darmstadt by the military chaplain ; she received the names Irfine (Peace) Louise Marie Anna. The same day peace was ratified at Berlin — that peace for which the brave mother of the child had so ardently longed. The Cavalry Brigade which the Prince had commanded stood sponsors to the child. 11 was only on the 20th of September that the Prince and Princess with the Hessian division made their public entry into Darmstadt. January 2. 1 am at the head of a committee of ladies out of the different classes of society to make a large bazaar, in which all the country Is to take part, for the Idiot Asylum. It is very difficult— all the more as 1 have never had anything to do with sucli things in my life. . . . 1 wanted, for the first public thing I undertake, to take in all prin- ciples, and my mother-in-law has given her name to it. I have chosen the committee out of different sets— half adelig [people of 8 QG ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. rank] half bilrgerlich [of the citizen class], and all these ladies, half of whom I dicf not know before, come and sit in my small room and discuss — and, as yet, do not disagree. January 6. . . . The people here are so much pleased that my Louis takes such active part in all his duties — military and civil, for he attends the different offices, and as General, 1 hear, he keeps great order where there were until now disorder and great abuse of power. Of course, 1 see him much less, and some days scarcely at all. On the 14th we go to Gotha for about a fortnight, without the children. Gotha: January 19.; Dear Uncle and Aunt are well, and we are very happy here, for they are always kindness itself to us. Uncle looks very well, but he grows very stout, 1 think. We saw the Braut von Messina [Schiller's] so well given two nights ago. 1 thought so much of dear Papa, who admired it greatly; and Uncle Ernest told me he had it given for you, when you first came here. Gotha : January 22. Two nights ago Uncle, Louis and I, with a very clever old actress, read a piece together. Louis resisted at first, but it went very well. You can't imagine how mild it is. 1 have the windows always open. Gustav Freitag is here. 1 am always glad to see him. He is a good friend to Uncle, and he is ^o honest and straight- forward. Gotha : January 26. I shall be very sorry to go away from here — the whole atmos- phere does one good. Dear Uncle is so amusing; he speaks of in- teresting things, and has interesting people. Our Quaker acquaintances have sent me a great deal for the Bazaar, and an old gentleman who heard of it, lOOZ. ! I could not believe my eyes. They are always so generous : and, hearing of my undertaking a work of this sort, they sent me this spontaneously. Is it not kind? Darmstadt: February 1. It is spring weather here altogether — quite warm when one comes out of the house. It is so unnatural. The children enjoy it, and are out a great deal, looking so well and strong: 1 wish you could see them. The little one is growing up to hex sister very fast, and actually wears the frocks Victoria wore last year. 1 wish you could hear all the extraordinary things Victoria saj^s. Ella is civil to all strangers — excepting to my mother-in-law. or to oldladies. It is too tiresome. Tliere is a large ball given by the officers at their Casino to-night, to which we must go. It will be crowded and hot. Our house gets on tolerably. The housekeeper, a Berlinerinn, comes on tlie 20th, and we are told that we can go mto the house next month. 1 can't help doubting it, and I regret leaving this nice little house, where our first happy years have been spent. 1 am so. glad that you have at least been in the new house, so that 1 can always think that , you are no stranger to it, which makes me like it much better. ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 67 February 10. ... I am happy to think you are quiet at Osborne after all you had to go thi"ough. The emotion and all other feelings recalled by such an event "must have been very powerful and have tried j^ou much.* It was noble of you, my darling Mamma, and the great eftort will bring compensation. Think of the pride and pleasure it would have given darling Papa — the brave example to others not to shrink from their duty; and it has shown that you felt the intense sympathy which the English people evinced, and still evince, in your great misfortune. How to-day recalls those bright and happy former years! There is no cloud without a silver lining, and the lining to the black cloud which overshadows your existence is the bright recollection of the past blending into the bright hope of a happy future; a small part of it also is the intense love of your children and nation, which casts a light around you which many live to enjoy and admire, and which few — if any — possess like you. 1 wish 1 could have sent a fine nose- gay of orange blossoms for to-day, but they could not have arrived fresh, so 1 gave it up. Louis sends his tenderest love, and wishes me to say how much his thoughts with mine are to-day constantly with you. He is very in- dustrious, and has a great deal to do now, and, 1 hear, does all very well. Darmstadt : February 15. How dear of you to have written to me on the 10th — a day of such recollections! That last happy wedding-day at Buckingham Palace, how well 1 remember it, and all the previous ones at Wind- sor, when we all stood before your door, waiting for you and dear Papa to come out. You both looked so young, bright and hand- some. As I grew older, it made me so proud to have two such dear parents! And that my children should never know you both together — that will remain a sorrow to me as long as 1 live. Darmstadt : March 10. . . . Your idea of Friedrichroda for us was so good, but alas ! now even that will be impracticable, on account of money. Louis has had to take up money again at Coutts's to pay for the house, and the house is surety. He must live so economically — not going anyioliere, or seeing many people, so as to be able to spare as much a year as we can. England cost us a great deal, as the visit was short last time. We have sold four carriage horses, and have only six to drive with now, two of which the ladies constantly want for theater, visits, etc. ; so we are rather badly oft in some things. But 1 should not bore you with our troubles, which are easy to bear, March 16. How trying the visit to Aldershot must have been, but it is so wise and kind of you to go. 1 cannot think of it without tears in my eyes. Formerly that was one of the greatest pleasures of my girl- hood, and you and darling Papa looked so handsome together. 1 so * The opening: of Parliament by the Queen {or the first time after the deatli of the Prince Consort. 68 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. enjoyed following you on those occasions. Such moments 1 should like to call back for an instant. Our house here is quite empty, and the demenageme7it creates such work. To-morrow night we sleep for the first time in the new house. March 17. I write from our dear little old house. May dear Papa's and your blessing rest on our new home, as 1 am sure it will, it is full of souvenirs of you both — all your pictures, photographs of dear brotheis and sisters and home. It reminds me a little of Osborne, of Buckingham Palace, a little even of Balmoral. Could I but show it to darling Papa! If 1 have any taste, 1 owe it all to him, and 1 learned so much by seeing him arrange pictures, rooms, &c. At half -past seven we go into our house to-night. Bender is to say a prayer and pronounce a blessing, when we with all our house- hold are assembled in hall; only Louis' parents and William besides ourselves. Yours and dear Papa's 1 pray to rest on us. March 20. That [the death of the Duchess of Kent] was the commencement of all the grief; but with darling Papa, so full of tenderness, sympa- thy and delicate feeling for you, how compaiatively easy to bear, compared to all that followed! . . . We are very comfortably established here, and I can't fancy that 1 am in Germany, the house and all its arrangements being so English. When can we hope once to have you here? Of course tJiat is the summit of our wishes. Your rooms are on the east side and very cool — as you always go abroad when it is hot, and suffer so much from the heat. 1 shall die of it this year, as my rooms are to the west. March 24. . . . Our Grana-Uncle of Homburg has just died, SO that Hom- burg falls to Uncle Louis now. But all the things of the Landgra- vine Elizabeth go to Princess Reuss, and her [Aunt Elizabeth's *] rooms are full of beautiful miniatures, oil-paintings, and ornaments en masse, like Gloucester House. 1 shall be so glad to see dear Affie. His rooms are to be ready by this evening. The house is very comfortable, but the weather is awful — wind, rain, and sleet. In spite of it the house is so cheerful. How sorry 1 am for you that dear Auntf is gone. As she was so well this time, it will be a reason moi-e for her returning soon to you. Dear Lady Frances Baiilie was with me on Thursday, so dear and charming. April 3. . . . We are living in such a state of anxiety and alarm. War:): would be too fearful a thing to contemplate — brother against brother, friend against friend, as it will be in this case! May * Princess Elizabeth of Great Britain and Ireland, Princess Alice's grand' aunt. t Princess Hohenlohe. X War between Prussia and Austria was now imminent. ALICE, GEAXD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 69 the Almighty avert so fearful a calamity! Here, at Mayence and Frankfort, it will begin, if anything happens, as there are mixed garrisons; and we must side with one against the other. For Henry, who is still here, it is dreadful. He can't desert at such a moment, and yet if he slioulcl have to draw his sword against his country, his brothers fighting on the other side! Fancy the compli- cations and horrors of such a war! For Vicky and Fritz it is really dreadful ; please let me hear by messenger what you hear from them. 1 am sure you think of us in these troubled times. What would dear Papa have said to all this ? 1 long to hear from you, to know that your warm heart is acting for Germany. March 26. . . . The dear old Queen Marie Amelie* is gone to her rest at last, after a long and so stormy a life! Claremont is now also altered. How sad those constant changes are! It reminds one again and again that we are on a journey, and that the real home is elsewhere. All those who work hard and love their fei low-creatures meet again, and the thorny path will be forgotten which leads to the happy meeting. I sincerely mouin for the dear Queen, and she was so kind 10 me always. I am glad she was one of Victoria's godmothers. April 7. . . . Our Bazaar goes off wonderfully: 7,000 Sorins the first day, and to-day again a great deal. Affie was invaluable in arranging, selling, and assisting in every way. There have been crowds these two daj^s, as in England : something quite unusual for the quiet in- habitants of this place. They have shown so much zeal and devo- tion that I am quite touched by it, as 1 am more or less a stranger to them. April 25. Thousand thanks for your dear lines and for the money and charming bas-relief of you, which 1 think very good. I thought so much offormer birthdays at home in Buckingham Palace. They were so happy. We did nothing in particular, merely dined at Kranichstein with Uncle Louis in the afternoon. It vvas warm and fine. ' The money will go at once to Louis' man of business toward pay- ing off the furniture, and is, indeed, very, very acceptable, more so under present circumstances than anything else you could give us; and that part of the furniture will then all be your present. May 3. . . . The prospect of war seems to be nfiaring realization. It will be so dreadful if it does. God be with us, if such a misfortune be- fall poor Germany ! These prospects have already done much harm to trade. The large manufactories send awaj' their superfluous workmen, and they sell next to nothing. Most unpopular amongst high and low, and amongst people of all opinions, this civil war will be. . . . I have made all the summer out-walking dresses, seven iu num- * Widow o£ King Louis Philippe. 70 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, hex, with paletots for the girls — not embroidered, but entirely made from beginning to end; likewise the new necessary flannel shawls for the expected. 1 manage all the nursery accounts, and everything myself, which gives me plenty to do, as everything increases, and, on account of the house, we must live very economically for these next years. It is so kind of you to give Dr. Priestley his fee, otlierwise I would have had scruples in giving so large a sum for my own com- fort. If there is a war then, and Louis is away, what shall 1 do? This is my constant dread and apprehension. As long as he comes home safe again — that is all I shall think of. Please God to spare me that fearful anxiety, which weighs on me now alreadj^; for he, having only a brigade, could not keep out of danger, like Fritz in Schles- wig. I put my trust wholly in the Almighty, who has watched over and blessed our life so richly thus far — so much, much more than 1 ever deserved, or can deserve; and He will not forsake us in the hour of need, I am sure. These dangerous times make one very serious and anxious; the comfort of faith and trust in God, who does all well and for the best, is the only support. Life is but a pilgrimage — a little more or a Jittle less sorrow falls to one's lot; but the anticipation of evil is al- most as great a suffering as the evil itself, and mine always was an anxious nature, so 1 cannot banish the thoughts which all the dreadful chances of war force upon one. May 7. ... I am so sorry for poor Louise and Beatrice, and whooping cough is a nasty thing, though 1 wish we could complain of that as our sufferings here. Anxiety, worry without end ! Uncle Alexander returned from Vienna two days ago. The Em- peror, Uncle Alexander Mensdorfl, all frantic at being forced into war, but fearing now no more being able to prevent it. Cannot the other three Powers interfere and step between at this dangerous crisis — proposing a Congress, or anything, so as to avert this calam- ity? Henry, who was here on six weeks' leave, as he and Uncle Louis were to have gone to Russia (which now, of course, they won't do), had suddenly to return to Bonn, as his regiment is made mohil. Uncle Alexander receives the command of~lhe 8th Armeecorps, which 1 suppose and hope will be stationed somewhere near here, as Louis is in that, and is to go. He means to go to Berlin this after- noon for a day to see Fritz, and tell him how circumstances now force him to draw his sword against the Prussians in the service of his own country. The whole thing is dreadful, and the prospect of being left alone here at such a moment (for all our people, nearly, will accompany Louis) is dreadful? If I were only over my troubles I should not be so anxious, so nervous and unhappj^, as I must say the anticipation of all these dreadful things makes me. Gould I fol- low in the distance! But now that is impossible, and I have not a single older married person near me. When dear Louis goes, of course Westerweller goes too. I still pray and hope against hope that there may be no war; even if all the troops are assembled, I ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 71 hope that the other Powers will interfere, and not look on whilst these brothers cut each other's throats. It is such an unnatural, monstrous war! The death of Lord and Lady Rivers is dreadful for their children, but how blessed for themselves! I hope Lady Caroline [Barrington] will pass by here, which will be a great pleasure to me, though she saj^s she can but stop two days, as you wish her to be home by the 15th. May 18. . . . How glad I am to hear that Lord Clarendon is still hopeful! Here as yet, though there is no distinct reason for it, save the repug- nance of all to this civil war, all still hope to avoid the war. Every day we have occasion to hear how the Prussians detest this war — army and all — and there are constant rows, with the Landwehr in particular. Men of forty, who have families and homes to look after, are taken away with their sons ; and those who have horses are also taken, with their horses; so that the wife and children sit at home, unable to do anything for their land. It is ruining numbers, and murmurs get louder and louder. A revolution must break out if this continues. . . . 1 do pray 'mc»sg present for Er- nest arrived! Thousand thanks for this most beautiful and precious gift for our boj', from Louis and from myself! We are so pleased with it! It is to be exhibited here, and it will interest and delight all who see it, I am sure. I have just received a letter from Bertie, announcing his arrival here for the 28th. We shall be greatly pleased to see them all; but we have so little room, and our house in tow n is all shut up and under repair, so that we shall have some trouble to make them com- fortable and shall be quite unable to do it as we should wish. But 1 trust they will be lenient and put up with what we can offer. The heat is veiy great, though this place is comparatively cool. Kranichsteiu : July 29. Dear Bertie and Alix with their children arrived at Darmstadt after ten, and we brought them here by eleven o'clock last night. They are all looking well, but Bertie has shaved off his beard, which does not suit him. Dear Alix is unchanged, and certamly no fatter. The children are very dear and pretty, but my boy is as tall as lit- tle Louise, and of course much bigger. I am so delighted to see them all again; it is such a great plcasiu-e, as you can well imagine. The pony you kmdly sent us has just arrived, and to the great de- light ot ail the children, who send their best thanks. We are all lodged very close together: Bertie and Alix, our bedroom and my * Princess George of Saxouy, Infanta of Portugal, who died in February, 1884. 120 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. dressing-room; we both, my sitting-room, and the passage-room;, then come the diflerent children. No gentlemen or ladies are in the house, as it was utterly impossible. Kranichstein : August 11. . . . Yictoria has often ridden on Dred, and also the other girls, on a Spanish saddle, and he goes very well. They delight in him. Baby rolls about the room anywhere now, and tries to crawl prop- erly. He calls Papa, and tries no end of things ; he is very forward, and is now cutting his fifth tooth, which is all but through. Friedberg : August 26. On this dear day I must send you a few words. The weather is so beautiful, and the sun so bright, as it used to be at Osborne in former years. 1 don't care for the sun to shine on this day now, as it can't shine on Him whose day it was. It makes one too wehtioiltMg to think of darling Papa on those happy birthdays, and it must be more so for you than for any of us, poor Mamma. Yesterday was Ludwigstag ; all the town decorated with flags, illumications, &c., and English flags and arms with the Hessian everywhere. We started on horseback along the high road at half -past seven this morning, and did not get off till one. A lovely countiy and very interesting 'to see. To-morrow we shall have a very long march, and the night Alice Morier, I and William (Louis is unde- cided) will spend at Prince Ysenburg's at Biidingen. The next morning we have to ride off at half -past five, and a long day back here. Kranichstein: September 11. . . . What charming expeditions you must have made in that lovely country!* What 1 saw of it some years ago I admired so intensely. You can well be proud of all the beauties of the High- lands, which have so entirely their own stamp, that no Alpine scen- ery, however grand, can lessen one's appreciation for that of Scotland. The day before yesterday we went to Mayence to see a " Gewerbe- Ausstellung " [Industrial Exhibition] of the town, which was very good and tastefully arranged. From there we went to Frankfort to our palace, for a rendezvous with Aunt Cambridge, Uncle George, Augusta and Fritz Strelitz. 1 showed them the children, and after- ward, when our relations left, we took our children to the Zoolog- ical Garden, which delighted them. Many thanks for the grouse, which has just arrived, the first since two years ago! Darmstadt: October 3. ... I am very glad that you also approve of Louis' journey, which 1 know will be so useful and interesting for him, though it was not possible to attain this without parting from each other, which is, of course, no small trial for us, who are so unaccustomed to being separated. But we never thought of that when we consid- ered the plan of Louis joining Fritz, which was my idea, as travel- * This refers to the Queen's stay at Inverfcrossachs, and the excursions to the neighborhood. These are described in More Leaves from a Journal of a Life in the Highlands, Seaside Library No. 16T8. ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 121 ing in new^ countries is so good for a man, and Louis may never find so good a chance again. 1 am looking forward very much to seeing Geneva — where we soend a day — and the south of France, and, above all, seeing the sea again. Fritz passes through here to-mor- row. Louis starts Saturday morning, via Munich, for Venice, where he will join Fritz next Sunday afternoon, and spend the fol- lowing Monday there before they go to Brindisi. Vicky comes here with her children on the 12th or IHth, and a suite of twenty-five people. She goes on w.ith the big boj'S to Baden, and I follow with the other children on the following day. I don't like separating Victoria and Ella, who like being together; the three girls will be so well taken care of at their grand parents. ' 1 have written down rules for meals, going out, to bed, to lessons, &c. ; and my mother-in- law, who never inteiferes, will see that all is carried out as I wish. I shall miss them so much, but having one child at least is a com- fort; and Baby is beginning to talk, and is so funny and dear, and so fond of me that he will be compauj^ to me when 1 am alone. 1 take no one but Orchard, Eliza, Beck, and my Haushofmeister [Steward], who used to be with Lord Granville. Darmstadt: October 11. Yesterday morning at eleven we had the hard sepai'ation from each other, which we both felt very much. My own dear, tender- hearted Louis was quite in the state he was in when we parted at Windsor in 1860 after our engagement. He does not like leaving his children, his home, and me, and really there are but few such husbands and fathers as he. To possess a heart like his, aud to call it my own, 1 am ever prouder of and more grateful for from year to year. Nowadays young men like Louis are rare enough, for it is considered fine to neglect one's wife, and for the wife also to have amusements in which her husband does not share. We sisters are singularly blessed in our husbands. Dear kind Countess Bllicher has been here the last two days — such a happiness to me just now, for the house feels far too lonely. Graud Hotel, Cannes : November 5. ... I have this instant received another letter from dear Louis from Constantinople, giving the accounts of what they did and saw there until the ?9th ult., when they left for Jafta. He seems de- lighted, and very greatly interested with all he has seen. Louis thought so much of the Sultan's English visit in 1867, on seeing him again. He found him more talkative than then. He saw also several of the suite who were in England. They went to Scutari, into the Black Sea, and visited all in and near Constantinople, and on the last day they visited the Emperor of Austria, who had just arrived. There is something very funny in hearing of these Royal- ties, one after another, all running to the same places. They must bore the Sultan considerably. This journey will be of great advantage to dear Louis, who has never had an opportunity (through marrying so young) of traveling like others. This afternoon we went to see poor Princess Waldeck. She is sfffl in great grief at the loss of her eldest daughter, who suffered so 122 ALICE, GRANT) DUCHESS OF HESSE. long, and knew she was dying, and boi'e her lot with auch lesigna- tion and surh goodness. She was only fifteenand a-half, 1 think. 1 was very much pleased to see Lord and Lady Russell again the other day. We hope to be able to pay them a visit at San Remo, though one can't go and return in the same day. The country has looked too lovely to-day ; the sunset is always most beautiful, for It sets behind the Esterel mountains, which lie to the right from this bay, and have a very lovely jagged form. 1 am reading to Vicky a new Life of Napoleon, by Lanfrey, which is very well and impartially written. Cannes : December 14. . . . The heavenly blue sea, stretching so far and wide, is in accordance with one's feelings, and tlie beauties of nature have always something comforting and soothing. . . . The Duke of Arsryll's sister, with his pretty daughter Victoria, are here, and we have been twice to see them, and are distressed that they should be so anxious about the dear Duchess, of whom the news to-day is worse. How dreadful, should anything happen to her, for her husband and for the many children! The Eburys and Lord Dalhousie have likewise arrived here, but we have not seen them yet. To-morrow we had intended leaving this, but during the night poor Vicky had the dreadful fright of Waldie's being tatven ill with the croup. Thank God, he is better this morning, but our journey will have to be put off for a few days, so that Vicky cannot now reach Berlin in time for Christmas. As we don't wish to spend that day en route, we have telegraphed to our husbands, who reached Naples to-day, to ask whether they will not join us here, that we may all spend Christmas together before leaving. This is all unsettled, and I will telegraph as soon as aaything is definitively arranged. Rollet* is here to-day, and spends this day in quiet with us. Cannes : December 20. We both had the happiness yesterdaj'" of receiving our dear hus- bands safe and well here after so long a separation. They had been to Naples and Pompeii, and Louis went for a day to Rome, so that he has seen an enormous deal, which is very in- structive for him, and will be such a pleasure for him to look back upon in later years. 1 am so glad that Louis has had the opportunity of making this journey; and it seems to have done his health good*lso, for he looks very well. The journey back is so long and difficult for me to manage alone with Louis— as Vicky's people, particularly in the nursery, have helped mine — that I am obliged to wait until the 26th, and to go with Vicky and Fritz, for they travel slower than I would do if I went with Louis, who goes back direct day and night. The doctor would not consent to ray traveling with Ernie from this warm cli- mate into the great cold so fast, and during the night, for he is cut- ting four back teeth at this moment. • Madame RoUande, formerly the Princess's French governess. ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OF HESSK. 123 The day before yesterday we visited Lord Dalhoiisie and Lady Christian, and found him very gouty, but in good spirits. Lady Ebury and Oggie* cainc to see us this" afternoon. Prince and Prin- cess Frederic of the Netherlands and their daughter have arrived here. The poor Princess is so weak, and loolis Jike a shadow. Hotel du Jura, Dijon : December 28. Just as we were leaving Cannes your last letter reached me. for which many thanks. It was cold the morning we left Cannes, very cold at Avignon, where we soent the night, and still colder, and snow and frost, on reaching this place yesterday evening. We and the children are all well, and the poor little ones are very good on the journey, considering all things. In an liour we leave for Paris, rest there to-morrow and then go to Cologne, where 1 shall take leave of dear Vicky and Fritz, and go straight home. 1 have been so much with dear Vicliy this year, that the thought of parting from her costs me a great pang, the more so as I do not think it likely that 1 shall meet her in this new year. On New Year's eve 1 arrange a Christmas-tree for all my chil- dren, and ia advance 1 thank yon for all the presents yau have been kind enough to send us, and which we shall find at Darmstadt. . . . 1870. At the beginning of this year, and soon after his return from the East, Prince Louis was laid up with scarlet fever, and, soon after. Princess Victoria and the little Prince took the same illness. Though the attack was a severe one, all made a good recovery, and no ill effects remained behind. Princess Alice undertook the nurs- ing entirely herself. During this time of enforced seclusion from the social world her intercourse with the ftmious writer and theologian, David Friedrich Strauss, was a source to her of great interest and enjoyment. The Princess became acquainted with this remarkable man in the autumn of 1868 at her own particular desire, and after considerable hesitation on his part. Strauss had spent the win- ter of 1866 at Darmstadt. lie returned there again in the spring of 1868, and remained there till the autumn of 1 872. His own account of his acquaintance with the Princess was by her wish not published at the time, but has been since, with the consent of liis family and that of the Grand Duke. From this the following nan-ative is taken almost verbatim: — " Although I was entirely unaccustomed to associate with per- sons of high rank, 1 soon felt entirely at ease with this lad}'. Her simplicity, the kind manner in which she met me, and her keen bright intellect made me forget all differences of social position." Strauss visited the Princess very often, and their conversations lasted sometimes for hours. He himself speaks of them as " most delightful and refreshing." * Miss Grosvenor, Lady Ebury's daughter. 124 ALICE^ GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Very often they read aloud, and this no doubt led to a suggestion from Strauss, that he should write down notes about Voltaire— whose works they were studying — and afterward read them to the Princess. She entered readily into this plan. "Her idea was to have a select circle of listeners. Besides herself and one of her ladies, with whom she was very intimate, Prince Louis, and the English Minister then at Darmstadt, Mr. [now Sir Robert] Moiier, weie to be present." The illness of Prince Louis prevented this plan from being carried out. "She, however, asked me," Strauss writes, "to come and see her, if 1 was not afraid of infection. She said that the next few weeks Avould be very solitary ones, and it would be of great value to her if 1 felt disposed to put up with her as sole audience for my lectures on Voltaire. To this 1 was only too willing to agree." The manuscript took the form of seven lectures, and the author was rewarded for his pains " by the keen interest and unwavering attention of his listener." After repeated revisions the printing of the work on Voltaire be- . gan. Strauss gives his own account of this in the following extract : — " When it first occurred to me to write something on Voltaire for the Princess in the form of lectures, I naturally cherished the hope that, when the little book was printed, I might obtain her permission to dedicate it to her. As the work progressed, however, this hope became fainter, and by the time the book was ready 1 had entirely given it up. "1 could only take iDleasure in my work, if I felt 1 had been per- fectly sincei-e; if, instead of condemning Voltaire, as is usually the case, 1 stood up for him upon essential points — nay, even went so far as to intimate that here and there he had seemed to me not to have gone far enough. " The Princess might naturally have scruples about allowing a book of such a tendency to be dedicated to her, considering her posi- tion and what was due to it; and to ask her to allow the book to be dedicated to her seemed forbidden by that discretion which 1 was bound to observe. The thought then struck me of writing with my own hand into the copy of the book which J. gave her the Dedication, in the terms in which it now stands printed on the second page of the volume. Meanwhile, on the one hand, the friendly intercourse with the Princess continued, whilst on the other the printing of the book advanced. One day in the most kind manner she told me how much she felt she owed to our acquaintance, and how much it had helped to clear her views in many ways. I, on my part, expressed to her in all sincerity the animating and exhilarating influence which our intercourse had exercised upon myself, and, in pariicular, how it had cheered and encouraged me in my labors on Voltaii'e. " ' It would be n.ce if you would dedicate your book to me,' the Princess rejoined. How agreeably surprised I was can easily be imagined 1 acknowledged without hesitation how this had been my first intention, but that 1 had given it up out of regard for her, not wishing to expose her to misinterpretation. The Princess re- ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 135 plied that the fear of being misunderstood would never prevent her from doing what she thought right. I pointed out, that the matter must be Tvell and carefully considered, and that, first and foremost, she must obtain her husband's consent. Her answer was that .she had no fear on that point; but that she would of course consult him about it. I told the Princess that I had made several changes and additions since 1 first wrote the lectures. 1 would therefore bring her the proof sheets as soon as they were ready, partly that she might glance over the whole again, and partly that she might draw the" Prince's attention to any doubtful passages. They would then be able to form their own opinions. ' ' 1 sent her the proof sheets, and received them back from the Princess on the 11th of Jime, 1870, with the following letter: — * ' ' Dear Hekr Professor, — I return you your Voltaire with many thanks. My husband read through the fifth chapter of it yesterday ; he does not think that its contents are such as to justify my refusing the dedication. The value which 1 place on the dedication of your book will always be far greater than any little unpleasantness which might possibly arise fi'om my accepting it. " 'Alice.' " The dedication was thus imqualifiedly accepted, but now — in what words should I put it? 1 had got accustomed to the form in which I had meant to write it myself into I he copy 1 wished to pre- sent to the Princess. 1 intended saying that I had written lectures for the Princess, and that she had allowed me to read them aloud to her. Would not this make the Princess, so to speak, an accomplice of this objectionable book? Could I state this publicly? I felt myself bound to leave to the Princess the choice betueen this dedication and a more formal one, in which these allusions were omitted. Upon this the Princess sent me the following answer: — " ' 1 should not like any change made in what you have written on the fix Sit page, and am greatly touched at your kind dedication. " ' Alice.' " "When 1 was at last able to send her my book in its complete form with the Dedication printed, I received the following note from her, written from Kranichstein, on the 27th of June, 1870: — " ' 1 have not been able till to-day' to thank you for your Voltaire received yesterday. The book itself is the cause of the delay, as I •devoted my spare time to reading over what you had yourself read to me so beautifully last winter. I seemed to hear your voice and all your oljservations again. 1 must thank you once more for that great enjojnuent, and for the kind terms of j'our dedication. " ' Alice.' " Seldom have the negotiations about the dedication of a book been carried on in a way like this, and seldom has a Royal Princess shown herself so courageous and amiable. " All must agree in ^is opinion, from whatever point of view they look at the subject. It was like the Princess's straightforward nature 126 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. boldly to acknowledge to the world her friendship for Strauss, even at the risk of incurring the most unfavorable criticisms. Strauss says, further, in his Memoirs: — " The memory of the Princess Alice will be inRpparably con- nected, as long as 1 live, with one of the mo>;t gratifying episodes of my lite— the writing of my worli on VoUaire." To this must be added that though, as time went on, the Princess agreed less and less with Strauss's avowed religious views, and especially differed considerably from those enunciated in his book The Old and the Neio Faith, she never thouglit otherwise of Strauss than with gratitude and esteem, as one in whom she had met with the most beautiful cuaracteristics of the best German scholarship — viz., unliinchina: sincerity, combmed with a rare gift of saying what it has to say clearly and pleasantly, and a winning modesty' of personal demeanor. In the end of March the Prince and and Princess with their fam- ily went to ]Vla3^ence tor change of air after the scai'let fever. The Princess went, much into society during her stay there; but this did not prevent her from making use of every possible opportunity for furthering those institutions which she ha*! so much at heart. She visited the hospitals at Mayence, Offenbach, and Giessen, and had many consultations with the heads of these various hospitals with a. view to possible improvements. The quiet, happy time at Kranichstein during the summer was suddenly brought to an end by the declaration ot war between Trance and Germany. Prince Louis had to go to the front with his division, which, together with another division, formea the Ninth Army Corps, and part of the Second Army, commanded by Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia. The Princess took leave of her hus- band on the 25th of July. She, however, saw him again once or twice before the final leave-taking, on the 1st of August. On the 15th of August the Hessian division for the first time en- countered the enemy, before Metz, and on the 16th took part in the battle of Mars-la-Tour. During the terrible battle of Gravel otte, on the 18th of August, Prince Louis and his division occupied a central position in the irresistible force, which drove Marshal Bazaine back into Metz, and held him imprisoned there with an iron grasp. On the 19ih Prince Louis and the troops encamped on the battle- field, and he had the pleasure of meeting his brother Henry. Prince Louis tool? part-, in the battle of Noisseville on the 31st of August, when General Manteufiel commanded the troops engaged. He and- his division also formed part of the army investing Metz, partly do- ing out- post duty, and partly servinsr in the reserve. On the 8lh of October, whilst the Prince was in command of his division at Gravelotte, where the troops were concentrated in hourly expectation of a sortie ot the French from Metz, he received the news of the birth of a second son, who had been born on the 7th. Ever since the Prince's departure the Princess had remained " at her post " in Darmstadt, helping, comforting, and advising all around her. She was proud to be the wife of a German olhcer serv- ing in the field in such & cause, though her life foi' the present was ALICE, GRA.KD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 187 full of anxiety and care. She worked, like any other woman, to alleviate as best she could the sufferings of tlie sick and the wounded, and giving aid to those who were plunged inio destitution by the war. Whilst she was living with her children at Kranichstein the " Httlfsverein," or Coramitte of Aid, had its head-quarters in her palace at Darmstadt. Slie herself went there every day,- visited all the hospitals, also the ambulances at the railway station, and super- intended the organization of " Commitlees of Aid" all over the country. The Committees which she had organized long previously now proved themselves an untold blessing. The " Alice Society for Aid to Sick aiid Wounded " had sixteen trained nurses ready for work at the beginning of the war. Through the voluntary help of some of the best doctors and surgeons, who arranged classes at different places for the instruction of all those who were anxious to help to nurse during ihe war, the number of nurses was increased by degrees to one hundred and sixly-four. These were sent to the different hospitals in Hesse, to ambulances near Metz, to the hospital trains, and the hospitals on the steamers. In her own palace the Princess arranged a depot for all necessaries required for the sick and wounded. Later on another was established in the Grand Ducal palace. Besides the many regular nurses, a number of women and ladies joined together to serve out refresh- ments, during the night as well as the daytime, to the wounded, who were constantly passing through Darmstadt and halted at the railway station. Similar committees were, thanks to the Princess's own initiative, formed all over the country. One of the hospitals at Darmstadt, erected by the English jSTalional Red Cioss Society, and supplied with English surgeons, received the name of 'The Alice Hospital." Under a special arrangement it was subsequently taken over by the Hessian military authorities. In this hospital, as "in others established independently of the "Alice Society," women and girls of all classes lent their aid. Simultaneously with the aid to the sick and wounded, those who had been rendered widows, orphans, or destitute b}' the war were cared for tUrongh the Princess's exertions: and " The Alice Society for the Educaiion and Employment of Women " did good service. Out of this Society sprung the " Alice Lyceum," which was intend- ed for the intellectual culture of women of the higher classes. Lect- ures were to be delivered in it on all the interesting subjects of the day. This Lyceum continued for some years to attract a more or less numerous audience. In the first wmier of its existence lectures on English and German Literature, Ihe History of Art, German History, and Natural History were given. The lady at the head of it was Fraulein Louise Biichner. Its subsequent failure was caused by numerous external difficulties, and not because the original idea for which it had been founded had proved otherwise than sound. The little new-born Prince continued to thrive, and Ihe Princess made a comparatively quick recovery. The Crown Princess of Prus- sia, who was then living at Homburg, came constantly to see her . sister; and later on, in November, they went together to Berlin. The christening ot the little Prince, who'was to Jjear the name of the victorious general of VVeissenburg and Worth, was deferred till his father's return. 12.S ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Prince Louis had garrisoned Fort Bt. Privat on the- 39th of Octo- her, and saw the 173^000 French prisoners and ln3.perial Guard pass before Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia. On the 30th the troops marched further into the interior of the country. Troyes was reached on the 10th of November, a few days later Pontainebleau, and soon after the troops confronted the " Army of the Loire " at Toury. The battle of Orleans took place on the 3rd and 4th of December, 'and on the 5th the victorious troops made the entry into the town. Part of the Hessian division moved along the left bank of the Loire, and fought the engagement of Montlivault on the 9th of December; the other part of it surprised and took pos- session of the Castle of Chambord, with five guns and many pris- oners. Blois was soon after taken; and fiom the 10th of December till the 14th of February, 1871, the headquarters were at Orleans. During the expedition against General Chanzy the Hessian division alone guarded the line of the Loire from Gien to Blois. January 8. . . . My three girls have had fearful colds— Ella bronchitis, which Ernie also took from her, and during twelve hours we were in the very greatest anxiety about him: the difficulty of breathing and his whole state caused great alarrn. Thank God, he is now quite convalescent ; but those were hours of intense suffering for me, as you can imagine. Weber is most attentive and most kind on such occasions, and in such moments one is so dependent on the doctor. . . . Some very good lectures have been given here lately, under- taken by a committee, which we are at the head of, and of which Mr. Morier is a member. They have been a great success hitherto, and we are going to one to-night by Kinkel, who in 1848 was a refugee in England, and is now a professor at Zurich. January 16. Beloved Mamma, — We are very grateful for your kind in- quiries, and for your letter received this morning. The violence of the fever and the great pain in the throat have abated, and dear Louis is going on favorably. The nights aie not good as yet, and his head pains him. 1 am cut off from all intercourse with anyone in the house, on account of the dear children; and I trust they may escape, for they still cough, particularly Ella and Ernie. 1 see Christa when I am out Walking, not otherwise, as she comes in contact with the part of the house where the children live. I read to Louis, aadplay to him, as my sitting-room opens into the bedroom. 1 keep the rooms well aiied, and not hot, and at night I sleep on a sofa near his bed. The first two nights were anxious ones, and 1 was up all night alone with him; but now, thank God, all snems to be going well. . . . January 30. I am happy to say that all is going on well. Louis has no more fever, but his throat is still far from well ; it has still the character of diphtheria, though in a mild form — a sort of skin and bits of blood come away when he coughs. He is a very good patient, and ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 129 I leave him very little alone save ■when 1 take my walks, which ia this high cold wind are very unpleasant. I hear Ella is still so hoarse and coughs, and Victoria is not quite well. Orchard writes to me every evening, and Dr. Weber sees them in the morning be- fore he comes downstairs. This instant Weber tells me that Victoria has the scarlet fever, and I have just been up to see her. She suffers very much, poor child; the fever is very high and the rash much out. It is too late now to separate the others, and those who are- not predisposed will escape; but those who are inclined to take it have it in them by this time. I It is a source of great anxiety. Orchard and Emma have never had it. . . . January 23. I was very glad to get your dear lines of the 22nd, full of sym- pathy for me during this anxious time. Victoria's fever has been very high; and so much discomfort and pain, with a dreadful cough, which she has had for the last six weeks. She is very low, and cries every now and then from weakness, &c., but is a very good patient, poor little one. Amelung comes every afternoon and sits with her, and she is a great favorite with the children, as she knows countless pretty stories. Louis is not out of bed yet, on account of his throat, &c. ; but he is much better, though in this treacherous climate, which is pro- verbially bad for throats and lungs, 1 fear that even with the great- est care there is a risk. The other children are as yet well, though I don't think Ella look- ing well; she has still a cold, and is as hoarse as when I came home. Ernie is all right again, and looks the best of them all. I doubt their escaping, though it is quite possible, as they did not take it when Victoria did. I keep the rooms fresh, and continually aired. All the balls and parties are going on here now. Of course, 1 can neither go anywhere nor receive anyone, on account of the infection. It is a wearisome time indeed, and being so much in sick rooms and so little out begins to tell upon me. How kind of you to send the - l)ooks! Louis will be delighted. I have just read to him Russell's book of Bertie and Alix's journey, and am now reading to him a new Life of Napoleon, by Lanfrey, which is very well WTitten— • more against than for Napoleon. Of course, newspapere and the Memie des Leux-Mondes 1 read to him besides. . . . January 31. . . . Though dear Baby has had two bad, restless nights, yet I am happy to say tbat he has the illness so slightly, with so little fever or sore throat, that we are in great hopes it will get no worse. He is cutting his back teeth just now, which is the worst moment possible to be ill in. Victoria looks veiy hollow-eyed, pale and wretched, poor darling, but is in good spirits now. The other two are as yet free. The weatner is most beautiful — frosty and clear — and 1 have been skating daily for the last six days, which does me much good, and enables me to see people again. This afternoon 1 have a large party on the ice at Kranichstein, and this is always a great amusement to the young people. . . . 130 ALICE^ GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Mayence: April 10. . . . Yesterday evening we had to give a large party here, half to the military, and the other to the civil authorities and to the Bilr- ger [citizens].' It went off well; but the amount of speaking, as one must speak to all, and the effort to remember who they all were — they having been all presented at once — was no small exertion. . . , Mayence: April 15. . . . Lady Car. .[Barringlon] wrote to me how very grateful Mrs. Grey was to you for your great kindness and consideration.* In trouble no one can have a more true and sympathizing friend than my beloved Mamma always is. How many hearts has she not gained by this, and how many a poor sufferer's burdens has she not lightened! ... April 25. Thousands thanks for your dear loving lines ! I kissed Ihem a thousand times, and thank you so much for the quite lovely statuette — a little gem, which everyone has been admiring this morning. The shawl and little ornament gave me also great pleasure, and the col- ored photographs of the rooms — in short, all and anything from such- dear hands must give pleasure. . . June 35. ... I am proud of my two girls, for they are warm-hearted and gifted, too, in appearancef Victoria's facility in learning ia wonderful, and her lessons are her delight. Her English history and- reading she has learned from me. 1 give her a lesson daily, and Bauerlein f can tell you how much she has learned. . . . I read a great deal, chiefly history and deeper works; and 1 have one or two very learned acquaintances with whom to read or to have books recommended by. My two committees always give me no end of work, and I have tried to have many improvements made in the girls' schools of the different classes; and some of these things, by dint of a deal of trouble, are prospering, and I hope in time to come will prove their worth. There is a great deal to be done, and in the hospitals 1 have been able to get some very necessary changes made. I tell you all this, fancying it may perhaps interest you a little bit. . . . July 2. How grieved 1 am for your sake, above all, and for the poor Clarks and ourselves, that dear kind Sir James, that true fatherly friend, is no more!! Many thanks for your last letter, which tells me of your last visit to him, which I am sure must be a great com- fort to you. Oh! how sad to think how many are gone! And for you, dear Mamma, this is quite dreadful. 1 can't say how 1 feel it. for you! Lord Clarendon's death grieves me much also; and it was so sud- den. Alice Skelmersdale wrote to me in the greatest distress; he had been a most loving father. In the midst of life we are in death; and in our quiet and solitary * General Grey, Her Majesty's private secretary, had recently died, t Miss Bauer, the German governess of the Royal family. ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 131 existence out here, where we see no one, all accords with sad and serious feelings, which, amidst the many people and worry you live in, must jar with such feelings and make you wish for solitude. The accounts you give touch me so much. Many thanks for having written so much about dear Sir James ; it is of great value to me. Louisbegs me to say, how he shares the grief you all and we must leel at such a loss. TVhat you say about the education of our girls I entirely agree with, and 1 strive to bring them up totally free from pride of their position, which is nothing, save what their personal worth can make it. • I read it to the governess — who quite enters into all ray wishes on that subject — thinking how^ good it would be for her to hear your O])inion. ... 1 feel so entirely as you do on the difference of rank, and how all-important it is for princes and i^rincesses to knovr that they are nothing better or above others, save through their own merit; and that they have only the double duty of living for others and of being an example — good and modest. This I hope my chiL 'dren will grow up to. July 26. When 1 returned home last night really heartbroken, after hav- ing parted from my good and tenderly-loved Louis, I found youi dear sympathizing words, and 1 thank you a thousand times for them — they were a comfort and pleasure to me! 1 parted wiih dear Louis late in the evening, on the high road outside the village in which he was quartered for the night, and we looked back until nothing more was to be seen of each other. May the Almighty Tvatch over his precious life, and bring him safe back again: all the pain and anxiety are forgotten and willingly borne if he is only left It is an awful time, and the provocation of a war such as this a crime that will have to be answered for, and for which there can be -no justification. Everywhere troops and peasants are heard singing " Die Wacht am Rhein " and " Was ist des Deutschen Vaterland?" and there is a feeling of unity and standing by each other, forget- ting all party quariels, which makes one proud of the name of German. All women feel ashamed of complaining, when father, husband, or son goes, and so many as volunteers in the ranks. This war is felt to be national, and that the King had no other course left him to pursue with honor. I must be in town by nine o'clock: so much rests on me, and there are so many to help — the poor forsaken soldiers' families amongst others! I have seen that all is ready to receive the wounded, and to send out help. I send out fourteen nurses for the Feld- Lazarethe [field-hospitals]. How much I feel for you now, for 1 know how truly you must feel for German j'' ; and all know that every good thing England does for Germany, and every evil she wards off her, is owing to your wisdom and experience, and to your true and just feelings. You would, 1 am sure, be pleased to hear how universally this is recog- nized and appreciated. What would beloved Papa have thought of this war? The unity of Germany, which it has brought about, would please him, but never the shocking means! 132 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. July 281 My darling Louis is at Worms, and Henry just in front of him. The enthusiasm all along the Rhine is wonderful. They are all hope- ful, though knowing well what enormous sacrifices and struggles a victory will cost. I cannot leave this place until our troops should have — which God prevent! — to reti-eat, and the French come! Now is the moment, when a panic might overcome the people; and I think it my duty to remain at my post, as it gives the people courage and conlidence. .My parents-in-law, who have their three sons out, tvould feel my absence, and they have the first claim on me. I am in beloved Loiiis' home, and hearer to him, if 1 remain. Of course, with dear^ Vicky 1 should personally be far better off. But Fritz is not much exposed, and she has not that fearful anxiety to such an amount as 1 have for dear Louis, who, as commander of only a division, must be in the very midst of all. Day and night this thought is upper- most in my mind. I hope and pray for The best, and bear what is sent to me in common with so many others. Work is a Zeo'Streuung [distraction], and 1 know dear Louis would prefer knowing me here- for the present, and that must be the first consideration to determine my actions. Louis is well, and, now the dreadful parting is over, I am sure in. better spirits, though work and anxiety weigh on him, poor love. The children send their love. 1 am pretty well; able to do a great deal; headache and sleeplessness are but natural at this moment. Augusts. Arrived. in our house this morning, 1 was received with the -news of dear Fritz's first victory, and that 500 French prisoners had just passed through here by rail. 1 know none of ours can liave beeu- engaged, but we have not heard if there was an engagement else- where. The excitement and anxiety are quite dreadful! Please God, my darling is safe, and will pass safely through these dreadful dangers— and our many dear friends and acquaintances also! 1 am. alwaj^s sending off things for the wounded from our stores, and con- tinue working and collecting, and all are most patriotic and United. . It is a solemn and great time we live in, and there is something grand and elevating in the unity of high and low throughout this great nation, which makes one proud of belonging to it. It only all goes on well ! I am very sleepless, and never without headache, but one haa neither time nor wish to think of one's self. My own Louis' safety is the all-engrossing thought; and I know, beloved Mamma, that you love him truly, and share this anxiety with me. . . . August 15. A few words by messenger. I have sent a letter by Kanne, who- came here yesterday, having seen dear Louis the day before, which Was the first direct news I have had from him. Yesterday morning he was at Faulquemont. Poor General von Manstein (our Chef), when he reached Saarbrilck, found his son had been killed, and he had him taken out of the general grave and buried in the church- yard. . . . No less than forty French wounded I saw this morning, ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 133 in our hospital, with some Turcos. Some can't speak in any known language, and the French dislike having these savages near them as much as we do; their physiognomies are horrid, and they steal and murder as Handwerk ftheir vocation]. So much going about — for 1 go to Darmstadt at half-past eight, and remain till half-past eleven in the morning, and in the afternoon from five till eight — is getting very fatiguing to me; but the people have no time to come out here, and there Is much to see to, and many to speak with. August 19. 1 have tried to write as often as I could, but I have only two hours to myself during the whole day, through driving in here twice a day. Besides the large Hiilfsverein for the " wounded and sick," which is in our palace, 1 have daily to visit the four hospitals. There is very much to do; we are so near the seat of war. This morning we got two large wagons ready and sent off for Pont-^- Moussou, where they telegraph from tne battlefield of the 16th they are in great want. %ly best nurses are out there; the others are in three hospitals: two of them — military ones — were not ready or organized when 150 wounded arrived a week ago. . 1 have just had a telegram from dear Louis; he is well, and I hope in a day or two the least dangerously of the Hessian wounded will arrive. Thank God, all goes on successfully; but, indeed, 1 hope 1 shall not live to see another such war — it is too shocking by far. We have over five hundred wounded; as soon as any are better, they are sent north, and worse ones fill the beds— French and German inter- mixed. I neither see nor smell anything else but wovmds! and the first Anblick [sight], which sometimes one does not escape meeting, is very shocking! It was very late last night before I got home. I was stopped at one of the hospitals, as a poor soldier had had sud- den violent bleeding, and was all but dead, as the doctor could not find the artery; but I sent mj^ carriage for another surgeon, and I am happy to say he lives, and is recovering. As Louis commands the Avhole ot our little armj', a great many things concerning the troops come to me from all parts of the coun- try, and there is much to do — much more than in my present state is good for me; but it can't be helped. 1 drive hack to Kranichstein by one daily, and am here again be- fore five, so 1 hope you will kindly forgive my writing seldomer. Becker is engrossed with his duties at the Pliilfsverein ; there is no other gentleman with me, and 1 have the household to look after, besides. August 20. My telegram will have told you that dear Louis is until now safe. On tlie 16th, in the evening, and on the 17th and 18tb, our troops were engaged, and yesterday evening late 1 drove to the sta- tion, to speak To General Kehrer, our commandant, and received a telegram of the last victory, near Metz— a battle of nine hours, very bloody — no mention of names. The people, all excited, crowded round my carriage, asked for news — which of our regiments had been under fire? 1 could tell them nothing, but pacified them, beg- ging them to go to their homes — they should hear as soon as I had news. I drove home with an aching heart, and passed a dreadful 134 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Bight of suspense. At six this morning a telegram from Louis (19th); he and his two brothers safe; our loss enormous — seventy ofiicers out of one division (ours is Ihe 25th), and Oberlieutenant Moller, a great favorite, his adjutant since 1866, very badly wounded. I went at once to Darmstadt to Loviis' parents. They were so over- come and thankful to hear of tbe safety of their children. This continual anxiety is fearful. Now to-day all the poor wives, moth- ers, sisters, come to me for news of their relations; it is heartrend- ing! We sent off two large wagon-loads to Pont-a-Mousson again with provisions, bandages and medicaments, and mattresses to bring back all the wounded possible by rail. 1 went the round of the hospital, to have all the convalescent Prussians and French able to travel sent to their homes, so as to get room, and now we can await the sad arrivals. Oh, if it would but end! the misery of thousands is too awful I Kranichstein : August 25. Many thanks for your dear words of the 20th. God knows, 1 liave suffered much, and the load of anxiety is great! But thou- sands of Germans bear this load in unity together for their Father- land, and none murmur. Yesterday a poor woman came to me to ask me to help her to get to the battlefield, to have the body of her only son looked for and brought home; and she was so resigned and patient. 1 see daily, in all classes, so much grief and suffering; so many acquaintances and friends have fallen ! It is heartrending! 1 ought to be very proud though, and I am so, too, to hear from the mouths of so many wounded officers the loud praise of Louis' great bravery on the 16th and 18th. Always in front, encouraging his men where the battle raged fiercest and the balls fell thickest. He was near our troops, speaking to them, directing them, and right and left of him they fell in masses. This lasted eight hours ! . . . Hourly almost the trains bring in fresh wounded, and many and shocking are the sights one sees. 1 only returned here by one, having gone to town at half-past eight this morning, and have still three hospitals for this afternoon. My nurses reached the battlefield in time, and were of great use. Louis telegraphed (yesterday's date) from Auboue, between Thion- ville and Metz, where they remain in bivouac. ... It is ten days since Louis has been in a bed or under a roof. They have no water (it is kept for the wounded), and little to eat, but he is very well. It is difficult to get news, and. I can never send any that is not mostly ten days old ere it reaches him. August 26. ... 1 had a telegrani on the 26th from near Marengo, not far from Metz — all well. Louis has not been in bed or under a roof since the 16th, and it rains incessantly. 1 hope they won't all be ill. He writes mostly on cards, on the hilt of his sword, sitting on a box. They cook their own dinner, and on the 16th they were going to eat it, when orders came to turn the French left wing and go into battle. That night was awful, though the day of the 18th seems to have been the bloodiest ever knpwn. Our wounded all tell me so. My dear parents-in-law bear up well; but when we three get to- ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 135 gether we pour our hearts out to each otJier, and then tears which, are full of anxiety will flow. Kranichstein : September 2. I went early to Homburg, as no train go regularly now. I went by road from Frankfort, and found dear Vicky well — her little baby very pretty and healthy -looking; the other dear children also well. How much we had to tell each other! How much to be proud of, and how many friends and acquaintances to mourn over! The few- hours we had together flew by in no time, and at Frankfort the train was unpunctual — outside Darmstadt it waited nearly an hour. A.t our palace, where I arrived at ten in the evening, people who were going to our Hauptquartier [head-quarters] were waiting. 1 scrib- bled a few words to my dear Louis (the first since he received the Iron Cross, a great distinction) and packed a few things for him — tea, &c. September 15. Though I am still forbidden to use my eyes, I must send you a few words of thanks for your dear letter and telegram. 1 had a violent inflammation of eyes and tliroat, with two days' strong fever and neuralgia. I am recovering now, but feel the eflects very much; my eyes are still bad, and it has reduced my strength, which 1 re- quire so much. Dr. Weber has just lost his sister (whom he treated in her confinement) from puerperal fever, and he told me he thought he must have given it to her, from going to and fro to his wounded, for LazaTethfieber [hospital fever] and that were so closely akin. You can fancy that in Louis' absence, and with the prospect of being alone, without even a married experienced lady in the house, this prospect frightened me. It is unhealthy at any time to be for one's confinement in a town full of hospitals with wounded, and Weber could never give me as much attention as at another time, and, should 1 be very ill, there is no authority to say anything about what had best be done. On that account your telegram was a relief to me. September 20. . . . Daily 1 hear the mufiled drums of the funeral of some soldier or officer being taken past my windows to his last resting- place. How deeply I do feel for the poor parents and widows! My children are very well, but have absolutely no place where they can walk with safety from infection, for the mass of sick troops who get out and stop near the Exercirplatz [drill-ground], and the hospitals in town. The barrack at the foot of our garden contains 1200 French prisoners, and many of them ill. It is much to be hoped that there will soon be an end to all these things. 1 feel for the Em- peror and Empress very much. What ungrateful, vain, and un- truthful people the French are! To expose Paris to a siege now their armies are beaten, which they think through fine speeches and volunteers they can set right again. September 22. I received your letter through Kanne yesterday, and thank you many times for it; also for the little shawls and sash for Ernie. Every souvenir from dear Balmoral is a pleasure. Good Dr. Hof meister will be very welcome, and 1 know he is very clever. Mrs. Clarke is sure to get on well with him, and an older 136 ALICE, GRAISTD DUCHESS OF HESSE. doctor just now, besides being an acquaintance of so many years, Is to me indeed a comfort. 1 shall be able also to hear of all at home, and of so many things that interest me. Thousand thanlis from Louis and from myself for your sending him! . . . All, long for peace — the army and the nation — and 1 think so great a national war as this need not require part of the foes' terri- tory. What little is necessary for the military frontier they must take; but ilie union of Germany under one head is a far greater and finer end to such a war than the annexation of land! . . . War is the greatest scourge this world knows, and that we may not live to see it again, is my earnest prayer. October 1. . . . The children are all well, in spite of the bad air here. 1 send them out driving of an afternoon, when 1 can best, having only one coachman, as ours are with Louis. At present they can't manage it often. ... October 3. . . . Dr. Hofmeister is to both of us a source of real confi- dence and comfort. 1 don't think anyone else would have been more welcome to me just now, and he can write daily to Louis, and letters go usually in two days now. I go as little as possible to the hospital now, and, indeed, do noth- ing imprudent, you can be sure. ... November 12. . . . "rhe nerves of my forehead and eyes are still painful; and from all sides I am again called upon to look after, settle, and advise concerning many things. On that account Dr. Weber and ray mother-in law insist on my leaving Darmstadt for a total change of scene, &c., for three weeks. 1 have resisted as long as I could, as 1 so much dislike going from home now (though 1 do not feel up to the work, and yet cannot keep from doing it), but 1 liave finally given in, and accept Vickj'^'s kind invitation to accompany her for three weeks to Berlin. The journey is long and cold, but her company when we are both alone is a pleasure to me, aad I shall hear all news as directly there as here. . . . Last night I was much overcome. 1 had been sitting at the bedside of one of my poor young friends, and he was gasping in a too-distressing way. The father held his hand, the tears stream- ing down his cheek, the son trying to say " Weine nicht, Papa" [" Don't weep, Papa!"]. The poor old father, so proud of his good and handsome child, is heartbroken, and they are touchingly united and full of feeling for each other. 1 would give anything to save his life; but all efforts will, 1 fear, be in vain. Though I have seen so many lately die hard deaths, and heard and seen the grief of many heartbroken widows and mothers, it makes my heart bleed anew in each fresh case, and curse the wickedness of war again and again. Poor Baby can't be christened yet, as my parents-in-law think Louis would not like it during his absence, so 1 shall wait. . . . November 17. . . . How 1 rejoice to hear that Leopold gains so much strength, and that he can be about again as usual. Will you kindly ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 137 teli him in Louis' name and mine (as 1 am still restricted in all writ- ing and reading) that we beg liim to stand godfather to our little son?* Baby is so nice and fat now, and thrives very well. 1 think you would admire him, his features are so pretty, and he is so pink, and looks so wide-awake and intelligent. Ernie, who in general is a rough boy, is most tender and gentle to his little brother, and not jealous, ... Berlin : December 5. . . . Yesterday Fieldmarshal Wrangel came to see nae, and his words were, ' ' Zu gratuliren dass Ihr Mann ein Held ist, imd sich so superb geschlagen hat" ["Accept my congratulations that- your husband is a hero, and has fought so magnificently "]. 1 am very proud of all this, but I am too much a woman not to long above all things to have him saie home again. . . . The evenings Vicky and ] spend alone together, talking or writing our letters. There is so much to speak of and think about, of the present and the future, that it is to me a great comfort to be with dear Vicky. It is nearly five months since Louis left, and we lead such single existences that a sisler is inexpressibly dear when all closer intercourse is so wanting! There is so much, beloved Mamma, 1 should like to speak to you about. ... The girls are quite well, and very happy with their grandparents. The governess— who in the end did not suit for the chilaren — as the six months' trial is over, will not remain, and I am looking for another one. Darmstadt : December 18. . . . The children and 1 bore the journey well, and it was. not cold. Parting from dear Vicky was a hard moment, and 1 shall feel the loneliness here so much, and miss my dear good Louis more than ever. The children are, of course, at such a time the greatest blessing. There is so much to do for them and to look after for tliem; and mine are'^dear good children, and do not give over- much trouble. Letters I have again received speaK of tlie amount of danger Louis has again been daily exposed to, and how his personal courage and daring have given 1;he victory in many a fight. God protect him ! 1 live in (ear and trembling for his precious life, and after 1 hear of his being safe through one battle, I take it as a fresh present from the Almighty, and breathe freer again, though the fear soon enough, gets the upper hand again. I have asked Uncle Louis to allow his Benchte [reports] to be copied for you. Louis has Kohler and another footman with him, that is all — and two coachmen. He rides at all battles the horse you gave him in 1866, which he rode during that campaign, and which is quite invaluable. It would interest ColoneJ Maude to know this, as he bought the horse. My nursery is in very good order, and they are all invaluable in their way. How is good Dr. Hofmeister's family? Please say many kind things to him from me, and tell him that the Baby is getting so nice * Prince Frederick William, the " Frittie " of these letters, bom the 6th of the previous month of October, and who was killed by a fall from a window on the ayth of May, 1873. 138 ALTCJE, GRAN"D DUCHESS OF HESSE. and fat, and is so healthy in spite ol all troubles. Here is a photo- graph of him, but not at all flattered. Please give Dr. Hofmeister •one of them ! r 1 have this instant received a letter from Louis dated the 11th! I "will have an extra made for you. 1 think it misjht interest Bertie to hear something of Louis, whom he can be proud to have as a brother-in-law, for 1 hear his praises continually. He has been throughout the war, as every other General has been, without a car- riage, •&c., like otlier Princes, and has gained the respect and devo- tion of his troops. Darmstadt : December 19. ... I hope for this last time, if we are spared and live to come over together once more, we may have the joy of showing their dear Grandmamma the whole little band. Of course, no thoughts of plans can be entertained, and 1 know, after so very long a separation, Louis would not be willing again to part from his chil- dren. My wounded were so pleased to see me again yesterday. Alas! many in bed and so ill still! My two in the house are much better, and the one who during six weeks lay at death's door is recovering. I have seldom experienced so great a satisfaction as seeing this young man recover, and the doctors say 1 have been the means of saving his life. The joy of the old parents will be very great. Since 1 left, there are new widows and fresh parents bereft of only children; it is a most painful duty to go to them. But 1 know the comfort of sym- pathy is the only one in deep grief. December 23. My warmest and tenderest thanks for your dear and loving let- ter, with so many expressions of a mother's love and sympathy, which do my heart good, now that 1 feel so lonely and anxious. It seems too great a happiness to think of, that of our being allowed to come with our children to you, and to Scotland; and you know the smallest corner is enough for us, who are by no means particular — -neither are our people. If I write this to Louis, it will be some- thing for him to look forward to, to cheer him and reward him after so hard a time, which he bears so bravely and uncOmplainingl3\ This morning 1 have been at the Alice Hospital, which is pros- pering. I have been taking my gifts for Christmas to one hos- pital after another. Your two capes have delighted the poor suffer- ers, and the one wounded for the second time is very bad, alas! My wounded officer in the house is recovering, next to a miracle. For the two wounded in the house, the children, our household, and the children of our servants at the war, 1 arrange Christmas trees. We grown-up ones of the family have given up keeping Christmas for ourselves. We have too much to do for others, and my parents- in-law, like me, feel the absence of the dear ones who are always here for Christmas. 1 am superintending Victoria and Ella's letters to you, which have not achieved the perfection wished for. As they are to be quite their own, 1 hope you will excuse their arriving a little later. ALICE, GRAIS'D DUCHESS OF HESSE. 139 Darmstadt : December 27. . . . Loiiis telegraplied on Christmas day from Orleans, when I had sent Clirista's brother with a box of eatables and woolen things for his people, and a tiny Christmas tree with little lights for the whole party. Louis has sent me a photograph of himselt and staff done at Orleans, and I have sent for a copy for you, as it is vexy good. On Christmas day it was five months since Louis and the troops left. The channing stockings you sent, 1 have sent off in part to-daj' to Louis to give to his Stabswache [Staff -guard] ; the other things I divide among the wounded and sick. My children are all well. The little one sits up, and, though not very fat, is round and firm, with rosy cheeks and the brightest eyes possible. He is very healthy and strong, and in fact the prettiest of all my babies. The three girls are so grown, particularly the two eldest, you would scarcel.y know them. They are both very tall for their age. Victoria is the height of Vicky's Charlotte, and Ella not much less. They are thin, and a change of air would be very bene- ficial. 1871. The christening of the little Prince took place quietly on the 11th of February, the child receiving the names of Frederick William. The sponsors were the Empress of Germany, the Crown Princess, Crown Prince, Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Piincess Alice's own brother. Prince Leopold. The ceremony took place in the absence of Prince Louis, who had been unable to get leave, although an armistice had been concluded on the 28th of January, which it was hoped would be the forerunner of peace. On the 18th of March the King of Prussia, who had meanwhile become Emperor of Germany, made his entry into Frankf ort-on-the- Main, together with his^son and his whole staff. The Grand Duke of Hesse and the members of his family received him there. Prince Louis at last obtainad ten days' leave of absence, and arrived at Darmstadt on the 21st of March. The parents of the Prince had gone to meet him and his brother William a few stations beyond Darmstadt, whilst the Princess Alice awaited her husband at the Darmstadt railway station. The joy and thankfulness of that meeting can well be imagined. Darmstadt was gayly decorated in honor of tne Prince's return; and he met with an enthusiastic re- ception. Prince and Princess Louis were present at Berlin on the 16th of June at the triumphal entrj" of the German troops on the conclusion of the peace. On the 21st of June the Prince entered Darmstadt at the head of his Hessian division. In spite of pouring rain, the town presented a most festive appearance. Later on the Ptince and Princess and their children went to Seeheim (near Darmstadt), where her brother. Prince Alfred, visited them on his return from his three years' voj'^age round the world. The Prince and Princess of Wales also paid their sister a visit ; and Prince and Princess Louis saw much of their Russian relations, who were then staying at Jugen- heim. In August the family went to the seaside at Blankenberghe, where 140 ALICE, GRA.KD DUCHESS OF HESSE. they spent three weeks, and afterward went to London. They arrived at Balmoral on the 13th of September, on a visit to the Queen, whom they found sufferiug severely. They stayed with her till the 1st of November, but the children, who had caught the whooping cough, were sent to London sooner. Whilst at Sandring- ham, to which the Prince and Princess went on their way back from Balmoral, in the middle of November, the Prince of Wales was taken ill. Prince Louis had to return to Darmstadt, but the Princess remained in England, and shared the anxieties of the very danger- ous and protracted illness of her brother, whom she helped to nurse. It was the same terrible fever (typhoid) which, ten years before, had ended the life of the beloved Prince Consort, and it was so severe that the worst was feared. Prince Louis returned to England on the very day when the danger was greatest, but he was also able to share in the joy and thankfulness when improvement set in upon the 14th of December. He remained over Christmas, and returned to Darmstadt before the year was at an end. Darmstadt: January?. ... In England people are, I fear, becoming unjust toward the German troops. Such a long and bloody war must demoralize the best army ; and I only say, in such a position how would the French have behaved? ..Many French officers say the same, and how greatly they respect the German soldier. Hundreds of French officers and two generals have broken their word of honor, and run away. 1 doubt, whether one in the Gern'^an army would do such a thing. The French peasants, often women, murder our soldiers in their beds, and the wouadea they have used too horribly many a time. Is it a wonder, then, when the men let a feeling of revenge lay hold of them? A guerilla war is al way horrid, and no words can say how all Germans feel and deplore the present phase of the war! I hope and trust that the end may not be far distant. One of the poor wounded soldiers whom I gave your cape to is dying, and the poor boy won't part from it for an instant, and holds it tight round himself. Louis continues at Orleans, where they have intrenched them- selves, and await with impatience news from Paris which must be of great influence for the continuation or ending of the war. My days tly past. The children take much of my time — so, loo, the house, my two wounded in the house, and the hospitals, to one of which 1 go daily. Darmst9,clt : January 14. . , . How kind of you to work something for Louis; he will wear it with such pleasure. Prince Frederick Carl's recent vic- tories * and the fresh hosts of prisoners must help to bring the war to an end. Germany does not wish to go on, but the French won't see that they are beaten, and they will have to accept the visitors, who must increase in numbers the longer the French refuse to acceded to the German demands. I am so low, so deeply grieved for the misery entailed on both. * On the 10th, 11th, and 12th of January, 1871, before Le Mans. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Ill -Sides, and feel for the French so much. Our troops do not pillage in the way described in English papers. 1 have read far worse accounts of what the French soldiers and francs-tireurs do in their French villages. The poor soldier who had your cape is dead. He died with it round him. I was Mrith him in the afternoon, and he had tears in Ills eyes, and was very low. In the night he died. This mornmg 1 was at the station to give things to the wounded and sick who came through— a sorry sight. This afternoon 1 am going to a poor soldier's widow who has just had twins. The distress on all sides is great. 1 help where 1 can. Becker tears his hair. The two wounded in the house cost so much. So does everything else: but as long as I can, through sparing on myself, help others, I must do it — though I have, as things are now, notli ing left. I will get a head of Ernest done for your bracelet, and another one, so that you may have something; else of him. He is a mag- nificent boy, but so huge — such limbs! The Baby is not at all small, but near Ernest all the others look small. He can't speak properly yet, but he understands everything, and has a wonderful ear for music. He sings the " Guten Kameraden " without a fault in the time, and is passionately fond of dancing, which he also does in time. Ir^ne is growing fast also, but the two eldest are quite big girls; it makes me feel old when I see them growing up to me so fast. Victoria has a very inquiring mind, and is studious, and learns easily and well. Since the middle of December I have been with- out a governess. To morrow 1 go to Mayence to see poor Woldemar * Holstein's sister. He is very bad, to the grief of all Mayence, and of all who know him. Darmstadt: January 16. ... It is pouring and thawing — most dismal — and my thoughts are with our dear ones and our poor troops far away. Becker lost his brother-in-law, who leaves a wife (JMatilda Becker's sister) and four little children. Each day fresh losses. My little Baby ought to be christened, but Louis and mj'- parents- in-law always hope that the end of hostilities is near, and that Louis can then get leave. Baby's blue eyes are beginning to turn, and look almost as if they would be brown. Should dear Grandmamma's and Grandpapa's eyes come lip again amongst some of the grand- children, how nice it would be! 1 have but little news to give. 1 go about to the poor soldiers' widows and wives — no end of them, with new-born babies, in the greatest distress. Yesterday 1 saw the mother of the poor young soldier who died. She keeps your cape as a precious relic, as it had given him such great pleasure. January 30. Your charming photograph and kind letter arrived this morning — thousand thanks for bolh ! How like the photograph, and how- pleasing! 1 am so glad to have it. * Prince Henry Charles Woldemar of Schleswig-Holstein, Governor of the fortress of Mayence. He died on the 20th of January, 1871. 142 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. The armistice and capitulation of Paris are great events. The people are out of their minds with joy — flags all over the town, and the streets crowded. 1 forgot to say in my last letter how grieved 1 was about Beaty Durham's* death. It is quite shocking! and those numbers of children in so short a time. 1 earnestly hope none of us run such a. , chance, for on the whole our children have nol been so close to- gether. My last came sooner than 1 wished, and is smaller than his brother, but 1 hope now for a long rest. 1 have Baby fed, besides, ' so as not to try ray strength. He is very healthy and stronar, and is more like Victoria and my brothers and sisters than my other chil- dren, and his eyes remind me of Uncle Ernest's, and seem turning ' brown, which would be very pretty, as he is very fair otherwise. Your pretty photograph is standing before me, and makes me quite absent. 1 catch myself continually staring at it, instead of writing my letters. Darmstadt, February 2. . . . All the many French here are pleased at the capitulation, of Paris, and hope that peace is certain. Louis writes to me that the inhabitants of Orleans were equally pleased, and consider the war over. 1 earnestly pray it may be so. How greatly relieved and thankful all Germany would be! Louis telegraphed to-day. He has no leave as yet, though he hopes for it, Now that there is a prospect of peace, and that the fighting is momentarily over, 1 feel quite a collapse of my nerves, ■ after the strain that has been on them for six whole months. 1 can scarcely imagine what it will be when my beloved Louis is at home again; it seems too great a joy! Rest and quiet together are what 1 long for; and 1 fear in the first weeks he will have so much to do, and there will be much going on. He speaks with the greatest hope of going to Scotland this autumn ;^ and, if we are spared to do so, it will be such a rest, and do good to our healths, which must feel the wear and tear sooner or later. February 11. Many thanks for your last kind letter. I thought so much of you yesterday, spending the dear lOth for the first time again at Windsor. To-day our little son is to be christened, but only the family will be present, and my ladies and two wounded gentlemen, who can get about on crutches now. .When 1 think that the one owes his life to being here, it always gives me pleasure. To night ago 1 was awakened by a dreadful noise, the whole house and my bed rocking from it; and twice again, though less violently. It was an earthquake, and 1 think too unpleasant. It frightens one so ; the doors and windows rattle and shake. To-night two slight shocks, and one during the day yesterday. How I shall miss dear Louis to-day! The seven months will be round ere we meet, I fear, and he has never seen his dear little boy. It always makes me sad to look at him, though now 1 have every reason to hope — please God — that I shall have the joy of seeing Louis come home, and of placing his baby in his arms. My heart is * Daughter of tlie Duke of Abercorn. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. • 143 full, as you can fancy,. and, much as I long to see Louis, I almost dread the moment — the emotion will be so great, and the long pent- ■up feelings will find vent. I pray that peace may be restored, and that I may not live to see MLch a war again, or to see my sons have to go to it. I will tell Christa to wrile an account to you of the christening, ■for Leopold to see also, as he will be godfather. Frederic William Augustus (after the Empress) Victor (victory) Louis will be hia names. Fritz and Vicky, the Empress and Fritz Carl, are god- parents. Darmstadt : February 14. My bad eyes must again excuse the shortness of these lines, which are to thank you many times for j^our last dear letter. Christa will have sent you the account of little Fritz's christening, ■which was a sad day for me, and will have been so for dear Louis likewise. We have added dear Leopold's name to the others, as his sad life, and the anxiety his health has so often caused us all, endear him particularly, and we hoped it would give him pleasure, dear boy. The elections in the provinces are ail for peace, and only the towns for war and a republic. This week is one of intense and anx- ious expectation; though the greater portion believe in the restora- tion of peace, yet we have no security for it. March 6. . . . Now dear Louise's marriage draws near, how much you must feel it! I think so much of her, of your and of my dear home. I trust she will be very happy, which with such an amiable young man she must be. Louis has received the Order " Pour le merite," which 1 am so ■glad of for him. The Emperor telegraphed the announcement to my motherin-law, with many complimentary words about her sons. To have the three sons safe is something to be thankful for, for they were much and continually exposed. 1 know nothing of Louis' coming. The troops march home, and it will take at least six weeks. I hope so much that he may have leave for a fortnight, and then return to the troops, to lead them home. To-night are the peace illuminations here, which will be very pretty. Our house will also be illuminated, and I take the two eld- est girls out with me to-night and see it all. It is a thing for them iiever to forget, this great and glorious, though too horrid, war. March 13. I know nothing as yet of Louis' return. 1 fear 1 must wait a few weeks lunger. On Wednesday the Emperor, Fritz, and some of the Princes pass through Frankfort, and 1 am going there with my par- ents-in-law to see them. TJie Paris news is not very edifying, and I fear France has not seen the worst yet, for there seems to be a fearful state of anarchy there. I have no news to give, save that Frittie has his first tooth. Ho is between Victoria and Irfine, but not like Ernie — not near so big, which is really not necessary. I think he is the sort of baby you jidmire. 1 go on looking after my hospitals, and now the trains, full 144 . ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. of Landwelir returning home cheering and singing, begin to pass.. JSTow good-by, darling Mamma. I am in thought daily with you: during these days, and only wish it had been in my power to be of any use or comfort to you just now. Darmstadt : April 8. , , . We had the pleasure of catching a glimpse of Louise and Lome on their way through, but their stay was too short to be able to say more than a few words'. They can scarcely help passing through here, as they can't go through France, on their way back; and if you would allow them quite incognito on their waj^ back to pase a day here, it would give both Louise and me the greatest pleasure, and entail no other visits. The Emperor who kindly gave Louise leave, prolonged it till Honday, when he leaves, and for how long is quite undecided. If 1 could only gp with him! Marie of Saxony has joined George: so has Carola [the Crown Princess ot Saxony] her husband ; but our division, which is near Chaumont, is in too bad and close quarters to admit of my living there. . , . ^ Should Louise have to remain very long, I still hope to rejoin Jiim — 1 don't care about the little discomfort. The new governess, Frl. Kitz, comes on Thursday. She is not young, but pleasing-looking — said to be very amiable, and a good governess; has been for eighteen years in England, first with Lady Palk, and then for ten years with Herr Kleinwart — a rich Germart banker In London — v?here she brought up' the two daughters. Darmstadt: April 13. ... Ernie's kilt was sent him by Mr. Mitchell.* He admired Ernie so much at Berlin, that he said he would send him a Scotch dress, and 1 could not refuse. It is rather small as it is, and I hope that you will still give him one, as from his Grandmamma it would be doubly valuable. Louis has arrived safely at his destination — Donjeux; and we both feel the separation very much after having had the happiness of being together again.~ The Paris battles are too dreadful, and the end seems some way \ off yet. May 27. My thoughts cannot leave unfortunate Paris! "What horrors, and enacted so close by in the center of the civilized world! It seems iur credible ; and what a lesson for those who wish to learn by it ! , Darmstadt : June 8.. Louise and Lome are just gone, and it rains and blows, and is dreadful. Their visit was so pleasant, so gemiitJilich, and I think. Louise looks well and happy. She had much to tell of their journey, which seems to have been very interesting. I could show them almost nothing, as the weather was so bad. We three went yester- day, evening to my parents-in-law, who were most kind to them, ai?> they always are to all my relations. * The late Mr. John Mitchell, the librarian of Old Bond Street. ALICE;, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 145 Their short stay was a great great pleasure, to me, so cut off from home as 1 hate been since three long years. Louis will be here in a few days, and we go together to Berlin for four days; Louis insists on my accompanying him. On the 24th the entry of the troops will be here. Seehelm: June 14. . . . tara SO glad that the«poor Emperor and Empress are so> kindly treated. They deserve to be well used by England, for the Emperor did so much to bring Prance and England together. How shamefully the French treat them, and speak of them, is not to be told; for the French consider themselves blameless, and always be- • trayed by others, whom they had made almost Iheir gods of, as long as all went well. Dear Frittie is getting better — principally his looks, but the illness is not overcome yet. 1 have been so anxious about him. The coun- try here is more beautiful than ever, and country air and flowers are a great enjoyment. Every little walk is up and down hill, little brooks, rocks, small green valleys, fine woods, &c. I have not lived here since 1865, when Ella was a baby. The children are beside themselves with pleasure at the pretty country and the scrambling walks, but above all at the wild flowers, in which they are getting quite learned. 1 find them in a book for them, and even Ernie knows some names, and never calls them wrong. All my children are great lovers of nature, and 1 develop this as much as I can. It makes life so rich, and they can never feel dull anywhere, if they know to seek and find around them the thousand beauties and won- ders of nature. They are very happy and contented, and always see, the less people have the less they want, and the greater is the enjoy- ment of that which they have. 1 bring my children up as simply and with as few wants as 1 can, and, above all, teach them to help themselves and others, so as to become independent. Darmstadt : June 20. 1 write at the dinner-table, whilst the children finish dinner, as 1 have not found a spare moment yet, and the rest of my afternoon is taken up with the preparations for to-morrow. The Empress Augusta has just been here for three hours, quite dead-tired with all shQ wont through. Thousand thanks for your dear letter received before our depart- ure from Potsdam ! Our journey was dreadful. We left in the even- ing, and were to have been here at 11 a.m., and through the irregu- larity of the trains we only got here at four in the afternoon. 1 am quite done up. The fatigues at Berlin were incessant. Anything: more grand, more imposing or touching and erhebencl [elevating] than the entry of the troops in Berlin I never saw. It was a wonder- ful sight to drive for three quarters of an hour through rows of French cannon! The decorations were so artistic, so handsome, and the enthusiasm of the dense crowds quite enormous. I am glad, to have been there; it will be a thing to recollect. The old Em- peror, surroimded by the many princes and by his great generals, looked so noble riding at the head of his glorious troops. Deputa- tions of all the German troops were there. 146 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS ^OF HESSE. It was very hot, and we had to drive every day to Berlin, and back in the evening. Alas J it is rainy here, and the town is so beautifully decorated; three large triumphal arches, and the houses covered with garlands and flags. 1 found the dear children well, though rather pale from the heal. Louis left again this morning, but after to-morrow remains here for good, which will indeed be a pleasure after such endless separa- tions, Darmstadt : June 27. , . . To-day Aunt Marie of Russia and her children were here. Aunt Marie looks thinner than ever, but well ; and Marie dear and nice, with such a kind fresh face, so simple and girlish. She gives her brothers music lessons during the journey, which she is very proud of. She is very fond of children, and of a quiet country life — that is the ideal she looks for. The Emperor of Russia comes here on the 5th, to join Aunt Marie at Petersthal. Louis' work is inces- sant — the selling off of horses, the changing garrisons of the regi- ments, the new formation of our division, causes almost more work than the Mohilmadiung [mobilization]. The entry was very beauti- ful: the decorations of the town most tasteful; not a house or the smallest street which was not covered with garlands, flags, and em- Tblems. There were large groups of the captured guns, and the names of the battles on shields around. Unfortunately, it poured nearly all the time, and we were quite drenched. I had the five chil- dren in my carriage, and Irene gave wreaths to her godfathers of the cavalry brigade. Two days ago we had a large military dinner, and have several soriees <~>f that sort to give before we can go into the country, which 1 am longing for. We shall probably go lo See- lieim, as the summer seems too damp for Kranichstein, The middle of August we shall go to Blankenberghe, near Ostend, as the doctors wish sea-bathing for Louis, and sea air for me and for some of the children, which is very necessary to set us up before going to Scotland. We want to remain one or two days and one night in London. We require a few things, which make a stay nec- essary. If we might be at Bahnoral on the 10th, as Louis' birthday is on the 12th, would that suit you? Please let me know in time if you think our plans good. This will enable us to settle when to go to Blankenberghe, as we can't be there longer than three weeks. How 1 look forward to seeing you again, and to come home once more! It is so kind of you to let us bring the children. The arrange- ment of the rooms will do perfectly, and we don't care how we are put up, and above all things don't wish to he in the way. The weather is horrid — rain and wind incessantly — after having been tremendously hot. These sudden changes upset everyone, and Frittie has had a very slight return of his ilbaess, August 13. . . . The newest news is, that my nice excellent Marie Grancy 5s going to marry. She will be such a loss to me. These last years she has been so useful, so amiable, and 1 shall miss her dreadiully. She is going to marry Major von Hesse, who was with us in England ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OE HESSE. 147 the last time, and the weddino; is to be in September. As lie bus been ill in consequence of the war, they will go to Italy and spend the winter there. We leave at eight to-morrow morning, reach Cologne at one o'clock, and wait there till ten in the evening, when we continue our journey and reach Blankenberghe at eight next morning. Will you kindly send a gentleman to Gravesend, who can remain with us in London, as we are quite alone? Uncle George, Aunt Cambridge, and Mary dined with us at Frankfort two days ago. Mary I had not seen for three years; she was looking very handsome. Blankenberghe : August 17. Only two words to say that we arrived safe and well here yes- terday after a very hot journey. The hotel is on the beach, where we sit all day; there are no walks or anything save the beach, and no trees. Our rooms are very small and not very clean; but the heavenly sea air and the wind refresh one, and the sands are very long. One can ride on donkeys, which enchants young and old chil- dren. Everyone bathes together, and one has to take a little run before the waves cover one. We bathed with the three girls this morning, but 1 felt quite shy, for all the people sit round and look on, and there are great numbers of people here. Our children play about with others and dig in the sand. Friltie sleeps so well since he has been here; his color is beginning to return. We have one small sitting-room, which is our dining-room, and Louis' dressing-room. 1 was so sad and upset at taking leave of my dear Marie Grancy the other day; a kind true friend and companion has she been to me these nine years, and during the war she was quite invaluable to me. 1 hope she will be as happy as she deserves to be. Buckingham Palace : September 10. The pleasure of seeing your dear handwriting again has been so great ! Thank God that you are going on well. I do feel so much for you, and for all you have had to suffer in every way! 1 trust entire quiet and rest of mind and body, and any little attention that 1 may be able to offer for your comfort, will make the autumn of real benefit for your health. How I do look forward to seeing you again, 1 can't say. . . . We propose leaving the evening of the 13th. Bertie and Uncle George have arranged for our going to Aldershot on Monday and 'Tuesday, which interests Louis above all things, and 1 fancied this arrangement would suit you best. The journey has quite cured Frittie, without any medicine, and ■ the heat is over. ... I took Victoria and Ella to the Exhibition, and what en- chanted Ella most was a policeman, who was, as she said, " so very ■ kind " in keeping the crowd oft". It reminded me of " Susy Pusy," which dear Papa used to tease me with as a child. We dined and lunched with Berlie, who had only just arrived, and is gone again. Dear Arthur of course 1 have not seen. 148 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Bram's Hill Park Camp, Cavalry Brigade, 2nd Division : September 12. In Bertie's tent 1 write these few lines to thank you in Louis' name and my own a thousand times for your dear kind letter. Every loving word is so precious to us, and the presents you so kindly gave Louis enchanted him. The pin, unfortunately, did not arrive. How I regret each time 1 hear you speak of your illness! I have been so anxious about you. Uncle Louis and my parents-in-law, in their telegram of to-day, inquire after you. We have had two such interesting days ; the country too lovely, each day in a quite diflerent part. We accompanied Uncle George, and in tliis way have seen the two Divisions, and through sleeping here will be enabled to see the third Division to-morrow before re- turning to town. 1 saw dear Arthur yesterday. He rode with me all the lime, and to-day we met him marching with his company. How 1 have en- joyed seeing your splendid troops again, I can't tell you; but I shall reserve all news till we meet. Louis thanks you again and again for your kindness, and only re- grets not having seen you himself, but, is very grateful that we were allowed to stay a few days at Buckingham Palace, through which we were enabled to come here, which to him as a soldier is of the very greatest interest. Bertie is full of his work, and 1 think it in- terests him immensely. He has charming officers about him, to help and show him what to do. To our great disappointment we did not see the 42nd Highlanders, the " Black Watch," to-day; but yester- day we saw the Argyleshire 91st Highlanders, who gave Louise the present. Bertie lent me a charming little horse, but the ground is dreadful, and not having ridden for so long, and being on horseback so many hours, makes me feel quite stiff. Dunrobin Castle, Sutherland : October 19. 1 wish your telegram had brought me better news of you. 1 really can't bear to think of you suffering, and so much alone. 1 feel it quite wrong to have left you, and my thoughts and wishes are continually with you, and distract iny aftention from all 1 see here. I can't tell you how much 1 feel for you at being so helpless. It is such a trial to anyone so active as yourself; but your trial must be drawing to a close, and you will be rewarded in the end, 1 am sure, by feeling perhaps even better and stronger than you did be- fore all youi troubles. 1 was nearly sick in the train, which is the slowest 1 was ever in in my life, and was unable to go to dinner; but a long walk by the, sea this morning has quite set me up in spite of the extraordinary warmth. Sandringham : November 9. It is the first time since eleven years that 1 have spent Bertie's birthday with him, and though we are only three of our own family to- gether, still that is better than nothing, and makes it seem more like birthday. Bertie and Alix are so kind, and give us so warm a wel- come, showing how they like having us, that it feels quite home. Indeed 1 pray earnestly that God's blessing may rest on him, and ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 149 that he may be guided to do what is wise anff right, so that he may tide safely through the anxious ,times that are before him, and in which we now live. They are both charming hosts, and all the party suit well together. The Westminsters and Brownlows are here ; Lady B. is so very handsome. We joined the shooting party for luncheon, and the last beats out to-day and yesterday; and the weather is beautiful, though cold — a very Ijracing air, like Scotland. 1872. The Princess did not return to Darmstadt with her children till tlie end of January, passing through Brussels on her way. Prince Louis was invested with the Order of the Black Eagle at the " Kronungs- und Ordenfest " at Berlin. Many of their relations vis- ited the Prince and Princess during the early part of the year. On the 6th of June another daughter was born, and* she was christened on the 1st of July, tbe anniversary of her parents' wed- ding-day. Her names were Victoria Alix Helena Louise Beatrice. The sponsors were the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Cesare- witch and Cesarewna, Princess Beatrice, the Duchess of Cambridge, and the Landgravine of Hesse. In August the Crown Prince of Prussia paid his first visit to Darm- stadt since the war, and met with a most loyal and hearty reception. , In consequence of the death of the Princess Hohenlohe-Langen- burg, the beloved half-sister of the Queen, in September, the Prince and Princess went to Baden to be present at the last sad ceremony, and to see their beloved aunt borne to her rest. A fortnight later the general assembly of the various German soci- eties for charitable purposes held its fii'st meeting at Darmstadt. All these societies, including the " Ladies' tJuion " founded by Princess Alice, had. in 1869, joined themselves together to form one great body. During the year 1872 the Princess added another In- stitution to those she had already called into existence — viz. an Or- phan Asjdum. A special committee of ladies were at the head of it, to watch over it, and also, if necessary, to advise and help those poor orphans who had been boarded out in private families at the expense of the parish. This institution has already proved most successful, thanks to the readiness with which the authorities met all Princess Alice's wishes. The general assembl J'' at Darmstadt — the " Frauentag " or "La- dies' Diet," as it was called — distinguished itself, not only by the extremely discreet and practical manner in which it carried out all the many different branches of business which it had undertalcen, but also bj^ the presence of several remarkable persons interested in its aims and objects, such as Madame Marie Simon, the founder and head of the Institution for Training Nurses at Dresden, and three English ladies. Miss Mary Carpenter, Miss Florence Hill, and Miss Wiukworth. The subjects treated of at the general assembly were the admis- sion of women to the Post Otfice and Telegraph Service; the lesults of the working of F. Frobel's principles for the further employment 150 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. of women; of " Kindergarten;" the finding of proper localities for the exhibition and sale of women's handiwork of all kinds ; nursing as a branch of female industry; the provision of better schools for girls, and what had been done, and was doing, in England for fe- male education and at similar institutions in England. The Princess followed all the discussions with the keenest interest. She received all the members of the different societies at her owa palace, and for each she had a kind and encouraging word. ^ None of those present will ever forget the sympathy and encour- agement they met with from the Princess. She not only advised and suggested things, but herself took the initiative in any important question which came under her notice. The general assembly did great credit to itself in the eyes of Germany, and, indeed, of other countries as well, and its members were encouraged to still' further exertions. The Princess herself was full of new plans for further good works. At the beginning of November Prince and Princess Louis were present at the unveiling of a monument erected to the memoiy of the Hessian soldiers who fell in the war of 1870. The Princess herself placed some wreaths at its base. The 14th of December, the anniversary of the Prince Consort's death, the Princess spent with, her sister the Crown Princess of Prussia, who had come to Darm- stadt from Carlsruhe for the purpose. Darmstadt: January 21. . . . Louis returns to-morrow from Berlin. He was the first to be invested by the Emperor, and has met with great kindness. He was very glad to have been there with dear Arthur, who seems to please everyone. February 5. . . . It Is a great pleasure to have dear Arthur here. He is so amiable, civil, and nice, and takes interest in all he sees, and is so pleasant to have in the house. His visit will be very short, as he gives up two days to go to Baden. We gave small suppers on two evenings for Arthur, and yesterday evening a celebrated most excellent violinist playea quite as well as Joachim: a friend of his, and a piipil of Spohr's. "rhis afternoon, he is going to play some of Bach's celebrated sonatas with and to me. Artliur enjoys music very much, and keeps up his playing. There is a dance at Uncle Alexander's to-night, on AVednesday a Court ball, and on Friday one at my parents-in-law. 1 can't stand the heat at all of an evening, and the rooms are very hot. Louis, who has an awful cold, took Arthur to see the barracks, as all mili- tary things give him pleasure. It is heavenly sunny weather, having been quite dark and foggy all day yesterday. April 20. . . . Louis has been in Upper Hesse the last four days shooting AuerJidhne, but as yet unsuccessfully. My mother-in-law is very grateful for your kind message, and is better, though weak. She has liad a narrow escape from fever. Frittle has again endless bruises, with lumps, as Leo used to have; ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 151 but lie is taking iron, as Sii* William [.Tenner] wished, and is strong and rosy and well otherwise. I trust he may outgrow this. June 17. Many thanks for your dear letter and kind wishes for the birth of our Baby*— a nice little thing, like Ella, only smaller and with finer features, though the nose promises to be long. . . . Kind Dr. Hofmeister was most attentive; and of course having him was far pleasanter than not, and we owe you great thanks for having sent him, Mrs. Clarke has been all one could wish. Louis wrote as soon as he could, but this last week he has only been home just before his dinner, and was so tired that he invariably fell asleep. He has gone out at six, returning at twelve, and has had to be out before four in the afternoon, returning at eight. He is away again to-day. Until the 15tli of September his duty will be important, and he has all the office work besides. It is double this year to what it usually is, as all people and things are new since the war. How sad the loss of those two poor children is, f and the sweet little " bairnie " of three! The unfortunate mother to lose two in so dreadful a way! 1 am sure it touched Beatrice much to see the poor little one; and in a child death so often loses everything that is painful. We think of calling our little girl " Alix " (Alice they pronounce too dreadfully in German) "Helena Louise Beatrice," and, if Beatrice may, we would much like to have her as godmother. Darmstadt: June 24. . . . We both felt so truly for you when we heard of dear Dr. Macleod's death, knowing what a kind and valued friend of yours lie was, and how fate seems to take one friend after another, and before age can claim its right. He indeed deserves his rest, for he did so much good in his life! 1 feel rather weaker than usual this time, and sitting and walking, though only a tew steps, tries me a good deal. 1 was out for half ^n hour yesterday, and I think the air will do me good. Louis left at half past five this morning, and will be back by ■seven, 1 hope, this evening; to-morrow the same. 1 will add Vicky's name to Baby's others, as you propose; and "Alix" we gave for "Alice," as they m.urder my name here: " Aliice " they pronounce it, so we thought " Alix " could not so easily be spoilt. Uncle Alexander is coming back shortly, and says the Empress is not to return to Russia this winter, and will be sent to Italy for the whole winter. The heat has been quite dreadful; there is a little air to-day, though. ■* Princess Alix, born on the 6th of June. + Two children who were carried away by a "spate," while playing at Mofcaltrie Burn, near Balmoral (lltli of June, 187-'), and swept into the river Dee and drowned. See More Leaves from a Journal of a Life in the High- lands. 152 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OE HESSE. August 14. . . . Baby is like Ella, only smaller features, and still darker eyes with very black lashes, and reddish-brown hair. She is a sweet, merry little person, always laughing, with a deep dimple in one cheek just like Ernie. We are going to Frankfort to-day to give Uncle George and Fritz Strelitz a luncheon in our Palais there. Helena Renter comes to us for a month to-morrow as lady. I hope your Edinburgh visit will go oft well. You have never lived in Holyrood since 1861, have you? How 1 shall think of you at dear Balmoral, and this time capable of enjoying it — not like last time, when you had to suffer so much, and were unable to do anything. It quite spoiled our visit to see you an invalid. Remember me to all old friends there— to Brown's kind old mother, and any who ask after usj 1 shall think of you on dear Grandmamma's birthday. She is nevei forgotten by any of us, and lives on as a dearly-cherished memory of all that was good and loving, and so kind. My children, have her picture in their room, and 1 often tell them of her. Kranichstein : August SO, I am very grateful for your telegrams from Edinburgh, and for Flora [MacDonald's] letter. It interests me so much to know what you did there, and 1 am very glad all went oft so well. The people will have been too delighted to have had you in their midst again, and 1 am sure you enjoyed the beauty of your fine northern capital anew after not having seen it for so long a time. Beatrice seems delighted with what she saw. I recollect those many interesting and beautiful spots so well.* The 18th was tjie anniversary of the dreadful battle of Gravelotte, which cost so many lives, to our division especially. We drove into town to the military church, which w^as full of officers and men, at half-past seven in the morning, and thought much of the f riendc and acquaintances in their distant graves, and of the desolate homes, until that day so bright. My heart felt too full when we were sing- ing Bin' feste Burg, and I had my husbanfl at my side whom the Almighty had graciously spared to my children and myself. Grati- tude seems barely enough to express the intense depth of what 1 feci when I think of that time, and how again and again 1 long to givo all and all to my good dear Louis and to our children, for he is all that is good and true and pure. . . . The children were much distressed at the sad fate of my poor- little bullfinch, who piped beautifully. Louis had caught an owl and put it in a wooden sort of cage in the room where my bird was. In the night it broke the bars and got loose and tore the bullfinch's tail out, and the poor little thing died in consequence. Of our quiet country life there is little to tell. We are a good deal out always with our little people, their pets — dogs, cats, ponies, donkeys; it is rathei like a menagerie. * For au account of this visit see More Leaves from a Journal.. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 153 Schloss Kranichstein : September 17. ... On Sundaj' the Moriers with their children were with us for the day. He loolced so wliite and reduced, walks on crutches, but retains, as always, his spirits and his lively interest for all things. He is a kind, i;^ arm-hearted man, to whom we are both attached. Alice feels the loss of her poor sister deeply, and says her father has been so cut up about it. We took them to races close by, and feared we should be upset, the ground being very heavy and uneven, and I was in terror for Mr. Morier, who was in my carriage. On the 9th there is a large meeting here of the different associations existing throughout Germany for the bettering of women's education and social position (of the middle class especially with regard to trade). Some English ladies are coming, some Swiss and Dutch. It will last four days, and be very fatiguing. The programme I arranged with my two committees here and the gentlemen at Berlin, and they wanted to force me to preside; but for so large an assemblage— to me nearly all strangers — 1 positively refused. 1 do that in my own Associations, but not where there are so many strangers, w^ho all want to talk, and all to cross purposes. It is diffi- cult enough to keep one's own people in order when they disagree. 1 hope and trust 1 have prevented all exaggerated and unfeminine views being brought up, which to me are dreadful. These Associations, if not reasonably led, tend too easily to the ridiculous. 3Iy Associations take a great deal of my time and thought, and re- quire a good amount of study. 1 hope and trust that what we are doing here is the right thing. We have already had some satisfac- tory results in the class of Ihe workwomen, and in the reform of the schools ; but there are many open questions yet, which 1 hope this meeting, with others who work in the same field, may help us to solve. Will you look through the programme? It would please me so much, \i 1 thought you took a little interest in my endeavors here in a very small way to follow in a slight degi-ee part of dear Papa's great works for the good of others. The meeting at Berlin seems to have gone ofi: very well, and has pleased all Germans, who hope for a consolidation of peace — so nec- essary to them. We have an entire change of Ministry at Darmstadt, the first since 1848, which fills all with hopes for an improvement in all the affairs of the Grand Duchy. Kranichstein: September 25. . . . All sympathize with you, and feel what a loss to j^ou darling Aunt * must be — how great the gap in your life, how pain- ful the absence of tnat sympathy and love which united her life and yours so closely. Darling, kind Mamma, 1 feel so acutely for you, that my thoughts are incessantly with you, and my prayers for comfort and support to be granted you in the heavy trial are warm indeed. You have borne 80 many hard losses with courage and resignation, that for darling * The Queen's half-sister, Feodore, Princess of Hohenlohe-Langenburg, who died on the 23d of September, 1872, at Baden Baden. 154 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, Aunt's sake you will do so again, and knowing lier at rest and peace will in time reconcile j'ou to the loss — all the more as her passing from this world lo another was so touchingly peaceful. Dear Augusta [Stanley] wrote to me, which was a great consolation, and we intend going to Baden to pay our last token of respect and love.. Darmstadt : October 13. ... A few words about our doings here may be of interest top you. The meeting -^^ent off well, was very large, the subjects dis- cussed to the purpose and important, and not one word of the eman- cipated political side of the question was touched upon by anyone. Schools (those of the lower, middle, and higher classes) for girls were- the principal theme; the employment of women for post and tele- graph offices, &c. ; the Improvement necessary in the education of. nursery- maids, and the knowledge of mothers in the treatment of little children; Ihe question of nurses and nursing institutes. The committees of the fifteen Associations met Wednesday after- noon, and in the evening thirteen of the members came to us to supper. The public meeting on the following day lasted from nine to twa with a small interruption; a committee meeting in the afternoon; and that evening all the members and guests came to us — nearly- fifty in number The following day the meetings lasted even longer, and the English ladies were kind enough to speak— only think, old Miss Carpenter on all relating, to women's work in Eng- land (she is our guest here). Her account of the Queen's Institute at Dublin was most interesting. Miss Hill (also our guest), about the boarding-out system for orphans. Miss C. Winkworlh, about higher education in England. She mentioned also the new institution to- which Louise now belongs, and is a member of it, herself. The ladies all spoke very well; the German ones remarkably so. There was a good deal of work to finish afterward, and a good many members to see. They came from all parts of Germany — many kind-hearted, noble, self-denying women. The presence of the English ladies — above all, of one such as Miss Carpenter, wha has done such good works for the reformatin of convicts — areatly enhanced the importance of the meeting, and her great experience has been of value to us all. She means still to give a lecture on India and the state of the native schools there, before leaving us. I have still so much work in hand, that 1 fear my le/.ter is hurried and ill -written, but 1 hope you will kindly excuse this. To- morrow I am taking Miss Carpenter to all our different schools, that she may see how the different systems in use work. Some are good, but none particularly so; there is much to improve. Louis is gone to Mayence to-day for the inauguration of the Memorial which the town has erected to the memory of dear excel- lent Waldemar Holstein, for so many years its beloved Governor. Darmstadt: October 24. You must indeed miss dear Aunt much, and feel your thoughts drawn to her, whose precious intercourse was such a solace and comfort to you. It is nice for you to have Louise a little to your- self. . . . ALICE, GEANP DUCHESS OP HESSE. 155 You ask if my mother-in-law talks with me about the different woman's work in which 1 am interested. Of course she do< s. W"e are so intimate together, that even where we difter in opinion we yet talk of everything freely, and her opinion is of the greatest value to me. She has ever been a most Idud, true, and loving mother, whom I respect and love more and more. She was much pleased and interested in the 'success of the meeting, but is of course as averse as myself to all extreme views on such subjects. 1 have joined to my Nursing Institute an Association for watching over the orphans who are boarded out by the State into families, where some poor children are unhappy and ill-used. The use of such meetings as this one was consists mainly in the interchange of experience made in the different branches in other places, which it is impossible to carrj^ on by correspondence. The schools are entirely different throughout Germany — good and indifferent; and those here do not count among the best, as every- thing,. through the long misrule of the late Government, is not what it ought to be. Uncle Louis has a new Ministry now, which, gives everyone cause for hope. Darmstadt : November 3. . . . The weather is awful here-, the wind sounds in the house as if one were at sea. This article was sent me the other day, and though I half fear seeming mibescJieiden [overbold], yet, as you spoke of your feelings about women's meetings the other day, 1 venture to send it. Ella is writing to you herself to thank you for the lovely bracelet, ■which gave me as much pleasure as it did her. To think that she is already eight! She is handsomer than she was, and a dear child. . . , They all give me pleasure, dear children, though of ■course they have as many faults as others; but they are truthful and contented, and veiy affectionate. Having them much with me, watch- ing and guiding their education — which, through our quiet and reg- ular life, is possible — 1 am able to know and understand their differ- ent characters, for not one is like the other. Darmstadt : November 13. . . . We have the same weather here which you seein to have, which for our long journey was not pleasant. We took nearly twelve hours going, and as much returning from Metz. For the inauguration itself the weather held up. The roads were dreadful, and the wide plateau looked dreary and sad — dotted all over with ^graves, like an enormous churchyard The Memorial is a dead lion in bronze, on a plain pedestal, bear- ing an inscription on black marble in front, and at the back all the names. Deputations of officers and men were present, beside the generals, &c., from Metz. The clergyman of the dvision read prayers, preached a short and touching sermon, and the band played a chorale. Louis spoke a few words, ending with the usual ' ' Hoch ' ' for the Emperor and Grand Duke. I thenl aids ome wreaths at the ioot of the Memorial from Louis' parents and ourselves, and we drove back to Metz across the different battlefields. The villages 156 ALICE, GKAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. are all built up again and reinhabited, so that few traces of the dreadful struggle remain. . , , The Empress of Russia wrote the other (Jay that the alliance withiviarie* of Mecklenburg is quite impossible, as she won't change her religion. 1 hope all other German Princesses will follow her example. Darmstadt ; December 13. Tor the 14th 1 write a few words. From year to year they can but express the same; the grief at the loss of such a father, such a man, grows with me, and leaves a gap and a want that nothing ou earth can ever fill up. The deep, intense sympathy for what you, my poor dear Mamma, went through then and since, in consequence of your bereavement, remains as vivid as ever. God heard our prayers, and sustained you, and through the healing hand of time softened your grief, and retained you for us, who were too young and too numerous to stand alone That our good sweet Alix should have been spared this terrible grief, when this time last year it seemed so eminent, fills my heart with gratitude for her dear sake, as for yours, his children, and ours. That time is as indeliblj'^ fixed on my memory as that of 1861, when the witnessing of your grief rent my heart so deeply. The 14th will now be a day of mixed recollections and feelings to us — a day hal- lowed in our family, when one great spirit ended his work on earth •^though his work can never die, and generations will grow, up and call his name blessed:— and when another was left to fulfill his duty and mission, God grant, for the welfare of his own family and of thousands !f I have not time to write to dearest Bertie and Alix to-day; and as 1 love to think of them with you on the 14th, so 1 would ask you to let them share these lines full of sympathy for them, letting a re- membrance of me, who suffered with them, mingle with your united prayers and thanks on this solemn day ! My little Fritz is at length better, but white and thin, in conse- quence of his illness Christmas Day. Your dear presents gave me so much pleasure; 1 thank you again and again for them. The precious souvenir of dear Aunt, and my Ernie's picture delight me 1 assure you, nothing has given me more pleasure this Christmas. Let me also thank you, in Louis' and the children's names (mean- while, until they do so themselves), for your kind gifts to them. It makes us all so happy and grateful, to be always so kindly remem- bered. The boys were well enough . to enjoy Christmas, though rather pale and pulled — above all, sweet Ernie. We gave all our servants presents — the whole household and stable * Daughter of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. Subsequently she did marry the Grand Duke Vladimir of Russia, as she was allowed not to change her religion. This was the first time such a thing was permitted ia Russia. t Who would have thought that only six years later the Princess herself was to rejoin her father on the same day? ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 157 — under the Cliristmas-lree, which we made for the children; and when the tree is divided, the children of all our servants come and share it with ours. It keeps the household as a family, which is so important. We have fifty people to give to! Dear Beatrice's wishes (cards) pleased the children very much, but Frittie lamented for a letter from Auntie " for Frittie. " He talks quite well now. On Saturday we shall go for the day to Vicky, i don't like leav- ing the boys for longer yet. 1 am so glad Vicky gave such a flatter- ing account of Baby. She is quite the personification of her nick- name " Sunny " — much like Ella, but a smaller head, and livelier, with Ernie's dimple and expression. TRIALS. 1873-1877. " May the hour of trial and grief bring its blessing with it, and not have come in vain ! The day passes so quickly, when one can do good and make others happy — and oneleaves always so much undone " (August 2nd, 1883). 1873. This year began brightly and happily to the Prince and Princess, for little Prince Fritz, whose healtli had often given rise to serious anxiety, seemed stronger and better. In March the Princess at last was able to carry out "her long- cherished wish to visit Italy. She traveled incognito, accompanied by Miss Hardinge and Hofrath Ruland. The journey was made in a comparatively short time, but was thoroughly successful. The Princess traveled from Darmstadt by ]\luuich and the Brenner Pass to Florence, where she spent thiee d'aj's, and from there went straight on to Rome. During her stay in the " eternal city " she employed her morniags in visiting the many beautiful picture-galleries, the churches, and the ruins of ancient Rome. In the afternoons she made longer ex- cursions into the neighborhood, visiting the distant churches in the Campagna, as well as the celebrated villas of Albani, Ludovisi, Borghese, &c. She used to spend her evenings in talking over and discussing all the objects of interest she had seen during the day. The Princess with her wonderful power of observation was able to do a large amount of sightseeing in a comparatively short time. She was accompanied by Monsignore Howard (now Cardinal Howard) over St. Peter's; and he showed her many interesting parts of this glorious edifice, wliich in general are never shown to Protestants. At the " Farnesiua," the private palace of Count Bermiidez, she was received and conducted over it hy the Count hjinself. The ruins of Rome which interested the Princess most were those which dated from the time of the first Christians, as far back as the early mediaeval period, the catacombs of " San Callisto," and the curious church of "San Clemente." Amongst the ' ceremonies of the ' ' Holy Week ' ' the Princess was greatly struck by ' ' Tne Lamenta- tions," whilst others made her ask, as all Protestants do, how the 158 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. pure simple Christian religion could possibly be so misrepresented. After attending all the grand ceremonies of the Church of Rome, the quiet service at the German Embassy made a most happy and peaceful impression on tlie Princess. She visited the Pope Pius IX., who received her with his usual winning kindness.* She also went to the Quirinal to pay her respects to Kmg Victor Emanuel, and to the Crown Princess of Italy, Princess Margherita. The two Princesses drove together through Rome on the occasion of the celebration of its "birthday," and witnessed the illumination of the Capitol, Foum, and Colosseum. On the 13th of April the Princess made a brief excursion to Sor- rento by way of Naples, where her father-in-law and the Empress of Russia were staying. On the 24th of April she left her suite for Florence, tiavelmg by way of Perugia and Lake Thrasiuiene, through the valley of the Arno. As she had but little time, she was onlf able to visit the galleries of the Uffizi and Pitti Palaces, the tombs of the Medici in San Lorenzo, the Convent of St. Mark, the Cathedral, the Church of Santa Croce, and the " Muzeo Nazionale." The Pi incess left Italy on the 28th of April, reaching Darmstadt on the 2nd of May. Her journey had been one of thorough enjoyment, and she felt deeply grateful that she had at last been able to see with her own eyes tiiose glorious works of art, which from her childhood she had onlj^ been able to picture dimly to herself. The joy of her reunion with her family was, alas! not to be of long duration. Prince Louis had been obliged to leave Darmstadt early on the morning of the 29Lh of May to inspect the troops in Upper Hesse, leaving the Princess still iu bed, exhausted from the great fatigue of her Italian journey. The two little Princes came to wish her " good moi-ning," and by her wish were let in her room by the nurse. The children SQon began to play, as was their wont, running in and out of the room into the adjacent one, and looking from one window and then from another. Prince Ernest having run into the next room, the Princess followed him, leaving Prince Fritz in her bedroom. During her almost momentary absence he fell out of the window on to the stone terrace below. "Whether he had leaned too far out of it and overbalanced himself, or whether in running fast through the room to the window to look for his brother he could not stop himself and fell from it, no one actually knows. He was picked up insensible, and died a f . w hours afterward in the arms of his distracted mother. Effusion of blood on the brain caused by the fall ended that young and bright little life. The loss of this unusu- ally-gifted and beloved child was a blow to the mother from which she never recovered. Her married life had till then been such a happy one, that this first sorrow came on her with redoubled force. On the evening of Whitsunday, June 1, the beloved little Prince was taken to his last resting-place, at the Rosenhohe (the Grand Ducal Mausoleum), his parents and sisters and brother being pres- ent, it was very long before the Princess at all recovered from the terrible shock of the death of her child, though the sympathy shown * He said to the Princess, " La b6n6diction d'un vieillard fait toujours du bien." ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 159 to her by her family and friends — indeed, by all — greatly comforted and helped lier. In the autumn the Prince and and Princess went to Heiden in Appenzell for a little change. From there they paid a visit to the Prince of Hohenzollern at his castle of the Weinburg. At the .end of November they went to England with their three youngest chil- dren, and remained there till the 23rd of December, when they re- turned to Darmstadt. Darmstadt: January 1^. , . . We were both much shocked to hear of the death of the Emperor Napoleon, and I must say grieved; personally he was so amiable, and she is much to be pitied. That he should die an exile in England, as Louis Philippe did, is most striking. In England the sympathy shown must touch the poor Empress, and, as i tele- graphed, we should be so grateful to you, if you would kindly be the medium tlirough which both of us would like to express to her how much we feel for her. How proud yon must ever be, in feel- ing that your country is the one always able to offer a home and hos- pitality for those driven away from their own countries! England is before all others in that ; and its warm sympathy for those who are in misfortune is such a generous feeling. Fanny Baillie's Victoria is such a nice girl. She comes to ours every Saturday, and is not above playing at dolls with them, though she is so much older. There are two rather nice little English gii'ls, daughters of the chaplain here, who come to them. February 1. If anyone will feel with us, 1 know you will do so most. Since three days, with an interruption of one day, poor Frittie has been bleeding incessantly from a slight cut on his ear, which was nearly healed. Since yesterday evening we cannot stop it. All the usual remedies were used, but as yet unavailing. Just now tlie place has been touched again with caustic, and tightly bound, after we had with great trouble got rid of the quantity of dried blood from his. hair, ear, neck, &c. He is horrified at the sight of so much blood, but shows gi'eat strength as yet in spite of so great a loss. He is of course very irritable, and, as he must not scream, one has to do whatever he wishes, which will spoil him dreadfully. 1 own 1 was much upset when 1 saw that he had this tendency to bleed, and the anxiety for the future, even if he gets well over this, will remain for years to come. All have their trials, one or another, and, please God, we shall bear whatever is sent without complain- ing. To see one's own child suflter is for a mother a great trial. With what pleasure one would change places with the little one, and bear its pain ! February 6. ... In the summer Fritz had a violent attack of dysentery, which was so prevalent at Darmstadt, and off and on for two months it continued, until Scotland stopped it ; and this illness made him sensitive and delicate. , . . What has caused him such great suffering has been that. 160 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. what with the use of caustic, the tight bandaging and the iron, a quantity of small gatherings formed on his cheek and neck, causing such an amount of pain that he could not rem? in in bed or any- where quiet for the two first days and nights. Now they are drying off, the itching is such that he don't know what to do with himself, and we have the greatest difficulty in keeping him from rubbing or scratching himself. The want of sleep through pain, &c., has ex- cited him very much, so that he has been very difficult to manage. The bandages of course cannot be removed, and great care will be taken when they are removed, lest bleeding should recommence. He has been out twice a day as usual all along, and his skin never quite lost its pinkness and mottled appearance; all of which are signs that he has good blood and to spare, else he would look worse and have shown weakness, which after all he did not. . . . He speaks well for his age, and is, alas! very wild, so that it will be impossible to keep him from having accidents. . . . ... 1 have been playing some lovely things (very difficult) of Ohopin lately, which 1 know you would admire. Darmstadt : February 19. My best thanks for your dear letter! That I forgot to thank you at once for dear Grandmamma's very beautiful print* came from my having the lithograph of that picture in my room always. before me, and, though the print far surpasses it, 1 am so fond of the litho- graph, that 1 forgot the print at the moment 1 was writing to you. Before that dear picture, the painting of which 1 recollect so well, my children often sit, and 1 tell them of her who was and ever will be so inexpressibly dear to us all. In the schoolroom, in my sitting- room, in the nursery, there is with the pictures of you and dear Papa always one of dear Grandmamma, and, in my room and the schoolroom, the Duke of Kent also. My sitting-room has only prints and lithographs, all "Winterhalters, of the family : you and Papa, your receiving the Sacrament at the Coronation, Raphael's Disputa and Belle Jardiniere, and the lovely little engraving of yourself from Winterhalter's picture in Papa's room at Windsor. f Vicky is coming here on Wednesday. The Grand Duke of Wei- mar has kindly allowed Mr. Ruland to join us as cicerone: which for galleries, &c., is very necessary, and we take no courier. Rome is our first halting-place in Italy, and for years it has been my dream and wish to be in that wonderful city, where the glorious monu- ments of antiquity and of the Middle Ages carry one back to those marvelous times. I am learning Italian, and studying the history and art necessary to enable me, in the short time we have, to see and understand the finest and most important monuments. 1 am so entirely absorbed and interested in these studies just now, that 1 have not much time for other things. My father-in-law, perhaps Princess Charles too, * A private plate, engraved for the Queen by the late Mr. Francis Holl from a. picture by Winterhalter. t Also engraved by the late Mr. Francis Holl for the Queen from a picture given by Her Majesty to the Prince Consort on the 26th of August, 1843. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 161 ■will be with Aunt Marie of Russia at Sorrento then. William will probably join us at Rome; he is quite a connoisseur in art, and a good historian, quite at home in Rome, about which he raves. 1 must say that 1 look forward immensely to this journey; it opens a whole new life to one. . . , • Kanne has made all arrangements for us at Rome. We shall leave here about the 1 8th of March. Rome, Hotel d'Allemagne : March 27. . . . We left the dear children well, but very sorry at part- ing. The two days at Munich were most interesting. The National Museum in its way surpasses any 1 have ever seen, and in originals is ricner even than South Kensington. Aunt Mariechen was very kind and dear; the Moriers very amiable hosts, and we met some Interesting people there. Two hours before we left, after eight in the evening, Ludwig and Otto* came to us and remained sometime. The Brenner, over which we came, was covered with snow — most beautiful scenery, like St. Moritz in the Jiingadine. Tue journey was very fatiguing. We had a morning for Bologna, and had to wait three hours at Florence for the night train — time enough to drive round and in the town, which is most lovely. What trees, mountains, colors ! then the fine buildings ! The following morning at six we I'eached Rome. The sun was bright, the distance blue— the grand ruins dark and sharp against the sky, cypresses, stone pines, large cork oaks, making up such a beautiful picture. Every day I admire the scenery more and more; every little bit of architecture, broken or whole, with a glimpse of the Campagna, a picturesque dirty peasant and a dars tree close by, is a picture in itself which one would like to frame and hang up in one's room. It is too, too beautiful ! To tell you all we have seen and are seeing would tire you. Bertie and Arthur's descriptions, too, so lately have told you the same. The Via Appia, the grand old road lined with ruins of splendid tombs, leading- from Atbano through the Campagna to Rome along which St. Paul went, and tne great kings and emperors made their triumphal entries, is a fit one to lead to such a city as Rome, which ruled the world. The antique monuments, those of the Middle Ages, are so magnifi- cent and interesting that as yet 1 don't know which to mention first or admire most! Our incognito did not last long (though even now we maintain it), for the Crown Princess heard of us and came to see us, as did the Crown Prince, and we had to go to the Quirinal, a morning visit without entourage. Palm Sunday, Rome : April 6. . . . We saw the beginning of Mass and blessing of the palms in St. Peter's this morning, with a procession and beautiful singing. Whilst the procession, with part of the choristers, go outside the church, some remain within, and they respond to each other, which produces a very striking effect. In spite of the bad style inside of * The King of Bavaria and his brother, first cousins of Prince Louis of Hesse. 6 163 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. St. Peter's, as a whole it produces a marvelous eflect through its wonderful size and richness of decoration. 1 saw two convents yesterday: the Sepolte Vive, which Bertie and Alix saw, and where the nuns asked nauch after him, and said that he was moUo amabiler ; and another equally strict one, but not au- stere, where the Superior told me that Aunt Feodore with Princess HohenzoUern had paid them a visit. Monsignore Howard was the only gentleman with me and the ladies, as they never see any men. Their idea is, that they spend the whole of their life in contempla- tion and prayer, so as to pray for those who cannot pray for them- selves. The museums of the Vatican and of the CapitoJ, with their enor- mous collection of antiques, are very fine. The celebrated Venus, Apollo Belvedere, the Torso (which Michael Angelo admired so much, and was taken to touch when he could no more see it), the wounded Gladiator, &c., are there. The Sistine Chapel, with Michael Angelo's frescoes, which are certainly the most marvelous pieces of painting and conception, is verj'- dark, and the frescoes are suffering much from the smoke, dust, &c. Raphael 's Stanze are far better preserved, and lighter than I had expected, and of suck beauty ! 1 thought so often and so much of dear Papa, when I saw the originalsof all the pictures he so much admired and took such in- terest in. How this alone fascinates me 1 cannol tell you. In these galleries and chvu'ches there is only too much to be seen, besides the antique ruins, &c. You would be terrified to see how full oui day is from before nine. Mr. Ruland is an excellent cicerone for pict- ures and sculptures. 'William is with us here since last Sunday. We are going to the Villa Ludovisi this afternoon. The gardens of the V ilia Doria Pamfili are most beautiful : the terraces there re- mind me of Osborne. 1 can see in many things where dear Papa got his ideas from for Osborne and for his decorations, which Pro- fessor Gruner understood so well to carry out. Many thanks for your having told Lady Churchill to send me an account of your opening of the Park.* 1 am glad all went off so well, and that you were not the worse for it. 1 have quite refused going to Naples. We shall arrange probably to go for two days to Castellamare (one hour from Naples), from thence to Sorrento and Pompeii, and return here. As yet it is not hot here at all. Rome : April 9. Let me thank you for your letter written on our dear Victoria's , birthday. I have never been away from her on her birthday be- fore, and though we see such fine interesting things, yet 1 feel very homesick for the dear childien always. In three weeks or less 1. shall see them all again. 1 look forward to the time with perfect impatience, as 1 am so rarely separated from them, and we live so much together. Every other day Fraulein Kitz and Orchard write, so that I have news daily. Louis' father wrote to me to-daj'', as his sister asks us to her house * The opening of Victoria Park, in the East End of London, on the 2nd of April. ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 163 at Sorrento for one or two nights for the 12th; but as 1 was rather deranged from a sick headache yesterday, 1 shall wait a da3'^ before we decide. It is wet and quite cold to-day. "We visited San Clemente two days ago, and Father Mulooly took Tis through the three churches — one under the other. The antique one was full of water, and we walked about on rickety planks, each with a lighted taper, as it is quite dark thqre. It is most curious, and the old paintings on the walls telling the legend of St. Clement are wonderfully full of expression and feeling for the time they were done. Rome : April 19. , . . Our visit to Sorrento went off well. We got there at one on Monday morning for luncheon. The san had given me a dread- ful headache, which ended' in sickness, so that 1 could not leave my room. Marie sat with me, and was very dear and kind. The next day, she and my Aunt, who seems tired and dispirited, had bad headaches. We went with my father-in-law and some of the ladies and gentlemen on the following afternoon in the Empress's yacht to Capri, close by, to see the blue grotto. The Bay of Naples, particularly seen from Sorrento, is most lovely — like a beautiful dream — the colors, the outlines are so perfect. We breakfasted together in the mornings with AlUuI and Marie, and on Tuesday we took our leave. We shall go to Florence the 33d (the first station homeward); remain there three or four days; one night at Verona, and then home. It is a fatiguing journey, and we have so often had people in the carriage, which is very unpleasant — some very rude English, going to Sorrento; they did not know us. Florence : April 25. Your kind wishes 1 received early this morning. Thousand thanks for them, and for the presents which 1 shall find on getting liome! 1 shall be so glad to have a large photograph of yourself. Thirty years! Goud-by, youth; but 1 feel quite as old as I am, though the Uime has flown by so fast. I would it had flown as well as it has fast ! I look back to the past with great gratitude to the Almighty for innumerable blessings, and pray our life may continue so blest. 1 have a very bad headache — neuralgia; 1 have it continually, and the journey is very long and tiring. Darling Einie wanted to buy Bomething for my birthday, and he thought a china doll with a bath would be the best. 1 am glad Victoria remembered to write to Beatrice as 1 told her; they are very fond of their A.untie. Florence seems a beautiful town, and the situation amongst the hills, over which the suburbs spread, is most picturesque. 1 inclose the last telegrams from Sorrento. It is fiewe du pays which Marie had. We remained at Rome a day longer on account of poor Alfred. He is very patient and hopeful. The King, whom we saw at the races, sends you his respects, and was delighted with the cream-colored horse you sent him. Many thanks for the flowers. 1 inclose two from here. The 164 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. account of your giving away the colors* 1 had already read with, interest. "We must go to the Grand Ducji^s Marie to-morrow ; Monday to Verona, twelve hours; next morning to Munich, and that night to Darmstadt. How I look forward to see the dear children ! It seems to me an age since we parted. Darmstadt : June 9. Tender thanks for your last letter, and for every word of sym- pathy! The weary days drag on, and bring much pain at times, though there are moments of comfort, and even consolation. The horror of my Darling's sudden deathf at times torments me too much, particularly waking of a morning; but when I think he is at rest, free from the sorrow we are suffering, and from every evil to come, 1 feel quite resigned. He was such a bright child. It seems so quiet next door; I miss the little feet, the coming tome, for we lived so much together, and Ernie feels so lost, poor love. We were at the Mausoleum with all the children yesterday even- ing. It is a quiet spot amidst trees and flowers, with a lovely view toward the hills and plain. He loved flowers so much. I can't see- one along the roadside without wishing to pick it for him. There is a young sculptor from Stuttgart, who was accidentally here, and, meeting the children, had asked permission to make medallions of them. The last afternoon sweet Frittie had sat to him, and he is now making a lovely bust of him, which is getting- very like. On Wednesday my mother-in-law, with her three sons, goes to Berlin; on Thursday Uncle Adalbert^ will be buried in the Dom. We sha'u't be able to go to Seeheim until Saturday. How too kind of you to have asked us to Osborne 1 How a rest and home air would have revived me — and the pleasure of seeing you again; but Louis cannot leave until after his birthday If he did get leave, it would so throw him out before he has to command; and, haviDg been absent this spring, he feels it an impossibility, and this I am sure you will understand. I could not leave him or the children. Our circle has grown smaller, and drawn us all the more together with a dread of parting from each other. We thank you a thousand times for the kind offer. Seeheim : June 32. ... I do earnestly hope that too long a time may not elapse before we meet. It is very hot, and 1 feel very low and unhappy. To morrow this house will be full, and all the Russians, &c., close by. Had there only been any other quiet country place to be at, how gladly would I have escaped this ! ... It is only three weeks to-day since we took our darling to his last resting-place! 1 wish I could go there to day, but it is too hot and too far. * To the 79th Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders, at Parkhurst, on the 16th of April. t The allusion is to the death of the little Prince Frederick, who was killed ou the 29th of the previous month by a fall from a window. X Princess Charles' brother, Prince Adalbert of Prussia. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 165 Fritz and Louise of Baden came two days ago to Darmstadt, to see my parents-in-law and us. Dr. Macleod's letter is very kind. 1 inclose two photographs of dear Frittie out of groups, the nega- tive of one of which unluckily does not exist any more. The little blouse is the one he had on on that terrible day. My darling sweet child — to have lost him so! To my grave shall 1 carry this sorrow with me. In the book you sent me there is a fine poem by Miss Proctor, " Our grief ^ our friend," called Fnend sorrow, which expresses so much what 1 myself feel about a deep grief. Seeheim : June 27. ... It was just four weeks yesterday since our darling died, and we went to the Mausoleum. 1 felt the whole weight of my sor- row, and the terrible shock doubly again. But the precious child does not — that is a comfort. He is happy and at rest, whilst we grieve and mourn. Ernie always prays for Frittie, and talks to me of him when we walk together. Aunt Marie arrived at two on Monday, and a few hours later came to see me, and was so sympathizing, mother^, and loving; it touched me much. At such moments she is peculiarly soft and womanly, and she loves her own children so tenderly. She cried much, and told me of the sad death of her eldest girl, who was seven, and of the terrible, irreparable loss her eldest son was to her. She has such a religious, truly resigned way of looking at great sorrows such as these. In the room I am now living in Aunt Marie had seen Frittie in his bath two years ago, and she remembered all about him. She is coming to " Sunshine's " toilet this evening; it always amuses her, and she is very fond of the children. Seeheim : July 9. . . . There are days which seem harder than others, and when 1 feel very heartsick, prayer and quiet and solitude do me good. 1 hear AfBe comes on Thursday night. This evening the Emperor arrives. Pour Marie* is very happy, and so quiet. . . . How I feel for the parents, this only daughter (a character of Hingehung [perfect devotion] to those she loves), the last child entirely at home, as the parents are so much away that the two youngest, on account of their studies, no more travel about. Seeheim : July 26. ... 1 am glad that you have a little colored picture of my darling. 1 feel lower and sadder than ever, and miss him so much, so continually. There is such a gap between Ernie and Sunny, and the two boys were such a pretty pair, and were become such companions. Having so many girls, I was so proud of our two boys ! The pleasure did not last long, but he is mine more than ever now. He seems near me always, and 1 carry his precious image in my heart everywhere. That can never fade or die ! ♦ The Grand* Duchess Marie, who was engaged on the 11th of July to the Duke of Edinburgh. 166 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. Seeheim: August?. Many thanks for your aear letter! 1 am feeling so low and weak to-day that kind words are doubly soothing. You feel so with me, when you understand how long and deep my grief must be. And does one not grow to love one's grief, as having become part of the being one loved — as if through tJiis one could still pay a tribute of love to them, to make up for the terrible loss, and missing of not being able to do anything for the beloved one any more?* 1 am so much with my children and am so accustomed to care for them and their wants daily, that I miss not having Frittie, the .object of our greatest care, far more than words can describe; and in the quiet of our everyday life, where we have only the children around us, it is doubly and trebly felt, and is a sorrow that has entered into the very heart of our existence. May the hour of trial and grief brine: its blessing with it, and not have come in vain! The day passes so quickly, when one can do good and make others happy, and one leaves always so much un- done. I feel more than ever, one should put nothing ofi ; and chil- dren grow up so quickly and leave one, and I would long that mine should take nothing but the recollection of love and happiness from their home with them into the world's fight, knowing that they have there always a safe harbor, and open arms to comfort and encourage them when they are in trouble, I do hope that this may become the case, though the lesson for parents is so difficult, being continually giving without always finding the return. Dear Fanny Baillie has been a few days here, and goes to England to-day. I shall miss her so much. 1 am so very fond of her. 1 hope you will see her; she will bring you many messages from us. Seeheim : August 13. . . . After endless difficulties it has been settled that we can go to the Mainau. I am so far from strong and well that a change is necessary, and we shall go on the 15th, as Louise of Baden pro- posed, and I have written this to her. How you will enjoy the rest at Balmoral! After so much going on, you must require it. Hel^ne Renter is coming here for a fortnight with her boy — Ernest's age. Poor boy, he longs for a playfellow. Seeheim : August 16. . . . Louis joins with me in saying that we shall gratefully accept your wish that we should come to Windsor, and he trusts there will be no difficulties for leave then. . . . Seeheim : September 7. . . . You ask if 1 can play yet? 1 feel as if I could not, and I have not yet done so. In my own house it seems to me as if 1 * How these words recall those of Constance (jSTmgr John, act iii., scene 4) : — Grief fills the room up of my absent child, Lies in his bed, walks up and down with me, Puts on his pretty looks, repeats his words, Remembers me of all his gracious parts, Stuffs out his vacant garments with his form;* Then have I reason to be fond of grief. ALICE, GRA.ND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 167 never could play again on that piano, where little hands were nearly always thrust when 1 wanted to play. Away from home — in Eng- land — much sooner. 1 had played so often lately that splendid, touching funeral march, of Chopin's, and I remember it is the last thing I played, and then the boys wei'e running in the room. Maiy Teck came to see me and remained two nights, so warm- hearted and sympathizing. 1 like to talk of him to those who love children, and can understand liow great the gap, how intense the pain, the ending of a little bright existence causes. Soon 1 shall have my Louis back. I long for him very much; but tlie change of air, the active outdoor life, and being quite thrown into men'^s society and occupations, must refresh body and mind. Here he has only me, the governess and children as Umgang. But he is what the Germans call ein HauRhammel — it is what he likes best. We shall do nothing for his birthday. The children will recite their poems and write little things, and his parents will come lo our five o'clock tea. Heiden, Appenzell : October 7. How kind of you to remember our darling's birthday; we both, thank you for this. Sad and many are our thouglits. I think of my loneliness and anxiety when he was born, with Louis far away in the midst of danger — a sad and awful time to come into the world; but sweet Frittie was my comfort and occupation, a second son, a pleasure to us both! Now all this is wiped out, and our parents' hearts are sore, and askins for the dear bright face we miss so much from amongst our circle of children! He ended his fight very soon. May we all follow in a way as peaceful, with as little struggle and pain, and leave an image of as much love and brightness behind, to be a blessed remembrance for the rest of our lives! 1 can't write on any other subject to-day, therefore close these short lines with much love from your devoted child, Alice. Darmstadt : November 14. ... It is very kind of you to ask about the rooms. I should prefer living in the tapestr}'' rooms this time. It won't be like the last lime — though after our house here, so full of happy and of heartrending recollections, 1 go through continual pangs, which it will take many a year to soften down, as you can understand. Buckingham Palace : December 20. Beloved Mamma, — How ,inuch 1 thank you for your dear pre- cious letter, and for all the true love and considerate sympathj^ you showed me during our visit! It has soothed and comforted me, 1 assure you, and will be a pleasure and satisfaction for me to look back to the many pleasant talks we had together. Louis, who has always been so devoted to you, was touched to tears, as I was, by your expressions of love to us and lo our chil- dren. Thank you also for all advice, which is so precious to me, and iu following it 1 shall like to think that 1 am doing something that you told me. How much [ felt in parting from you I cannot say. Neither did 1 like to speak of it, for it was too much, and the harder things iu 168 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. life are better borne in silence, as none can bear them for one, and they must be fought out by one's self. Ernie and Irene send endless loves to you, to Uncle and Auntie. Sunny's hand is better. Tiila came to see me yesterday, and we both drove with her to the Memorial.* . . . There is so much 1 would run on about, now the dear habit of intercourse together has once more become so natural to me. "Writing is at best a poor remplagant. Once more from both of us warm and tender thanks for so much love and kindness! Love to Leopold and Beatrice; kind remem- -brances to all who surround you! From your grateful and devoted child, Alice. Buckingham Palace : December 21. ... It is fine and warm and still. 1 hope it will be so early to-morrow when we cross over. 1 shall telegraph how the passage has been. Please thank Brown for his kind wishes. I am so sorry that I missed saying good-by to several. To say the truth, I dreaded it. It is always so painful. The old Baron'sf way of disappearing was almost the best. 1874 During the first months of this year the Princess had the com- fort of seeing many of her relations. The year was chiefly spent in retirement, and devoted to many sad memories. On the 34th of May she gave birlh to a daughter whose christening took place on the 11th of July at Jugenheim, near Darmstadt, in the presence of the Em- press of Russia and the Duke of Edinburgh. The child received the names of Marie Victoria Feodora Leopoldine. The hottest part of the summer was spent at Blankenberghe for the use of sea baths. In September the great maneuvers of the Eleventh Army Corps took place in Upper Hesse, where the Prin- cess met the Emperor of Germany. - The Princess's charitable institutions were all prospering, and assuming larger and larger proportions; amongst them the Princess 's own hospital was by degrees slowly approaching completion. It was the institution she had the most at heart. . It was intended to be a training-school for those who intended to become nurses, and a home for probationers whose training was at an end. It was also to serve as a model of those reforms in sanitary arrangements which the Princess had so much at heart. When the provisional English hospital at Darmstadt (already men- tioned during the war in 1870) had been taken over by the Hessian authorities, all its furniture, appointments, &c., were left to the * To the Prince Consort in Hyde Park. t Baron Stockmar had such a disHke of leave-takings that he never let it be known when he was going away from the English Court. The first intimation Of his intention was — that he was already gone. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 169 " Alice Ladies' Union " tor the small hospital which it had started, aided by a small body of doctors in Darmstadt. This was the origin of the " Alice Hospital," begun in a very small humble way in a cramped little house in the Mauer-Strasse. The Frauen-Verein had undertaken, when the English National Society for Aid to Sick and Wounded had made over their hospital to them, either to build quite a new one or thoroughly to reorganize the existing one in the Mauer- Straase. There were no funds to build a new hospital; therefore, the " Alice Ladies' Union " could only resort to the other alternative, and this was carried out to the letter, by additional buildings and a totally new arrangement of its interior. As time went on, it was found advisable -to give the hospital a distinct administration, and to separate it from the " Alice Ladies' Union," placing special funds at its disposal. This never would have come to pass, nor would the hospital have proved the success it did, had it not been for the im- tiring zeal, perseverance, economy, and practical knowledge of the lady directing it. During the summer months of 1874, a lady well acquainted with German and English hospitals — a trained nurse her- self—became Lady Superintendent of the training-school for nurses, and of the hospital generally, which gradually, but surely, was gain- ing in importance. » The Alice Union for the Emplo5mient of Women made a further step in advance during this year, and established itself on a firm broad basis under the name of ' ' The Alice Society for the Educa- tion and Employment of Women of all Classes." Of this the Prin- cess was the President, whilst Fraulein Louise Blichner directed the whole. The gentlemen and ladies who formed the committee were chosen by the Princess. All worked most harmoniously together; and the Princess was as anxious to receive advice' from others in, matters concerning the society as she was glad to give it herself. Darmstadt: January 12. . . . Holo low and miserable 1 am at times in these rooms, par- ticularly when I go to bed, 1 cannot tell you! The impression of all is so vivid and heartrending. I could cry out for pain sometimes. Till the first year is round this will often return, Iknow, and must be borne as part of the sorrow ! Januarj' 10. ... 1 know well what your grief and j'our bereavement were compared to mine; but they are such different sorrows, I don't think one can well compare them. Your life was broken — upset: altered from the very roots, through the one you lost; my life is unchanged, save in the mother's heart the blank, the pain which thousands of little things awaken — which by the world, even by the family, are scarcely felt ; and this ofttimes loneliness of sentiment clouds one's life over with a quiet sorrow which is felt in emrytMng. , . . Darmstadt : January 23. On our dear Affie's [Prince Alfred's] wedding-day, a few lender words. It must seem so strnnge to j^ou not to be near him. My thoughts are constantly with them all, and we have only the Times,* 170 ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OJ- HESSE.. account, for no one writes here — they are all too busy, and of course all news comes to you. What has Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] written, and Vicky and Bertie? Any extracts or other newspaper accounts but what we see would be most welcome. We give a dinner to-night to the iamily and entourage, and Rus- sian and English legations. ... Louis sends yuu his love and warmest wishes for yourself and the happiness of the dear pair, in which I most earnestly Join. Grod bless and jjrotect them, and may all turn out well! Darmstadt : January 28. . . . Dear Marie [the Duchess of Edinburgh] seems to make the same impi ession on all. How glad 1 am she is so quite what I thought and hoped. Such a wife must make Affle happy, and ao him good, and be a great pleasure to yourself, which I always like to think. I shall read to my mother-in-law the letters, and show them to Bauerlein. Both will be very grateful for being allowed to see them. We are going from Saturday to Monday to Carlsruhe. The eldest girls .^nd Bauerlein, who is going to take charge of them for a week, are going with us. . . . One day we have six degrees of h*eat, the next two or four of cold; it is very unwholesome. Carlsruhe : February 8. I have a little time before breakfast to thank you so very much for the inclosures, also the Dean's [Stanley] letter through dear Beatrice. We are most grateful for being allowed to hear these most interesting reports. It brings everji-thing so much nearer. How pleasant it is to receive only satisfactory reports ! 1 fear Aunt Marie is far from well. I should be very anxious, for she is like a fading flower. All the family, Hohenlohes and Holsteins, send their duty. All their respective children and ours were together yesterday afternoon. I hope not to seem vaia, if it strikes me that amongst all the chil- dren my girls usually carry away the palm. Victoria is in such good looks at present; they are both natural and real children, and as such 1 hope to be able to retain them long. Sophie Weiss* came to see me yesterday. 1 was very glad to be able to give her so good an account of you, and how young you looked when 1 had that gieat happiness of those few short days at Windsor, which did me good in every respect. Old Frau von Bun- sen, now eighty -three, I went to see — such a charming old lady, fresh in her mind, with snow-white hair. You and Papa were the topic she enjoyed speaking about, and our brothers and sisters. Darmstadt: March 2. . . . My nice Miss Graves 1 could so well have taken when Kitty left, but I was so anxious for a German that, though I was much inclined toward her, 1 thought a German more important than it really is. Not the nationality but the individuality is the first thing; and here 1 think 1 have succeeded in finding the right per- son. . . . * A former Dresser of the Queen's. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 171 Darmstadt: March 11. ... I hope you were not the worse for all your exertions. The Times' accounts are charming. Such a warm reception must have touched Marie, and shown how the English cling to their Sovereign and her house. We have cold, snow and dust, after quite warm weather. I trust you will have sunshine to-morrow. This last fortnight the news from Ashantee has so absorbed our thoughts. It has been an arduous undertaking, and one's heart warms to our dear troops, who under all difficulties sustain their old name for bravery and endurance. The poor 42nd [Regiment] lost many through illness, too; and I see they entered Coomassie playing the bag-pipes! Louis is just reading to me Sir Hope Grant's book on the Indian Mutiny, which he kindly sent me, and which is interesting and pleasant to read. 1 am taking the first snowdrops to sweet Frittie's grave. How the first flowers he so dearly loved bring tears to my eyes, and recol- lections which wring my heart anew! 1 dread these two next months with their flowers and their birds. Good- by, darling Mamma. Darmstadt : April 7. . . . Surely Marie must feel it very deeply, for to leave so deli- cate and loving a mother must seem almost wrong. How strange this side of human nature always seems — leaving all you love most, know best, owe all debts of gratitude to, for the comparatively un- known ! The lot of parents is indeed hard, and of such self-sacri- fice. April 11. . . . The children are too much an object here: they have too little to compare with; they would be benefited by a change, seeing- other things and i)eople, else they get into a groove, which 1 know is. not good. They are very unspoilt in their tastes, and simple and quiet children, which 1 think of the greatest importance. Louis Battenberg has passed a first-rate examination. The parents are so happy, and the influence the good conduct and steady work of the elder brother has on the younger is of the greatest use, as they wish to follow him, and be as well spoken of, and please their par- ents, as he does. . . . April 15. My best thanks for your dear letter of the 13th. You say rightly, what a fault it is of parents to bring up their daughters with the main object of marrying them. This is said to be a prominent feature in modern English education of the higher classes. . . . 1 want to strive to bring up the girls without seeking this as the sole object of the future — to feel they can fill up (heir lives so well other- wise. ... A marriage for the sake of marriage is surely the greatest mistake a woman can make. ... 1 know what an ab- sorbing feeling that of devotion to one's parent is. When 1 was at home, it filled my whole soul. It does still in a great degree, and Eeimioeh [home-sickness] does not cease after ever so long an ab- sence. . . . 172 ALICE, GEA]!fD DUCHESS OF HESSE. Darmstadt : April 23. ... I thouglit so miicli of your remarks about daughters, &c., and do tliink it so natural and dutiful to remain with one's parent as long as oae is wanted. Is it not a duty when no one else can take one's place? I should feel it so. April 26. 1 thank you most tenderly for your loving wishes for my birth- day, received on getting up yesterday morning. You can under- stand that the day was inexpressibly sad, that the fair head missing in our circle was painfully felt, and that all these recollections caused me endless tears and heartache — though not for him, sweet precious child As you say, life at best is a struggle happy those who can lie down to rest, having fought their battle well; or those who have been spared fighting it at all, and have remained pure and un- touched, barely touching this earth, so mixed up with grief and sin! Let me thank you for the charming photographs, and for the present toward the layette— ^a most kind assistance. . . . We went to the Mausoleum. The children had made me wreaths to take there, and we all went together. How often and ten- derly Ernie speaks of Frittie! It is very touching, and speaks of his deep and warm heart. He said the other day — for the recollection of death has left such a deep impression, and he cannot reconcile it with life, it pains him — " When 1 die, you must die too, and all the others; why can't all die together? 1 don't like to die alone, like Frittie." Poor child! the wish that aZ? have, who love their own, so early expressed. ... May 4. Many thanks for your last dear letter written on dear Arthur's birlhday, of which, though late, I wish you joy. Such a good, steady, excellent boy as he is ! What a comfort it must be to you, never to have had any cause of uneasiness or annoyance in his con- duct! He is so much respected, wliich for one so young is doubly praiseworthy. From St. Petersburg, as from Vienna, we heard ihe same account of ihe steady line he holds to, in spite of all chaffing, &c., from others; which shows character. My mother-in-law tells me that since Miechen has been allowed to retain her religion, this right will of course be conceded to all Prin- cesses in future. What a good thing, for the changing 1 always thought too bad, and nowadays so intolerant and narrow. . . . To think of Mr. Tan de Weyer also leaving this world! To you he will be a loss, and to all who knew him. Old friends are precious landmarks in the history of one's life, and not to be replaced by new ones; and it is sad, how time reduces the number as one gets on in life. How deeply j^ou must feel this with each fresh loss ! 1 feel much for you. . . . Darmstadt : May 18. . . . Since 1867 the Emperor [of Russia's] face shrunk so, and he became so thin. When 1 first saw him, in 1864, he was much stouter and fresher looking. He has many cares, and one sees they weigh upon him, for he is so kind and so well-meaning, and has done so much to advance liberty and culture in his own country. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 173 Darmstadt : June 5. . . . Beloved Mamma, — The day (Whitsunday, and dear Frit- tie's burial day) of Baby's birth would have been too sad, had not the fact of its being your birthday given a double significance; but when I heard those bells, and became conscious again of everything, my feelings were deep and mingled beyond expression. . . . With repeated tender thanks, your most loving child, Alice. June 11. . . . Having no cow, or country place to keep one, in this tre- mendous heat where one can't keep milk, and dysentery carries off «o many babies, it would not be fair to deprive the poor little thing of its natural and safest nourishment till the hot months are over. These, darling Mamma, are my reasons, and though 1 do it with such pleasure, yet it is not without sacrifices of comfort and conven- ience, &c. ; but it seems to me the best course to take for our chil- dren, and as we are situated. Many thanks for being Baby's godmother! It gives us great pleasure. JJo thank all our good people for their kind interest. . . . 1 am driving out this afternoon, if cool enough. . . . You must not tell one of the heavenly Scotch air, when one is breathing Jieated stove air; it makes one too envious. . , . July 13. The christening went oft very well. Baby looked really pretty for so young an individual. It was in a large room. Marie [Duch ess of Edinburgh], quite in pink, held her godchild; and my moth- er-in-law, with her best love, begs me to tell you, it had pleased her so much that you had asked hei to represent you. My three older girls looked very nice, I thought, in lavender silk (your Christmas present). 1 had the same color, and "Sunny," in pink, was im- mensely admired. She is still improving in looks since you saw her.- 1 was glad it was another place, in different circumstances from the last christening. As it was, it moved me mucli. The last time I heard these words darling Fritlie was with us, and now the chain has a gap ! ... We can get nothing at Scheveningen except at exorbitant prices, so w^e go to that dreadful Blankenberghe— without tree or bush, nothing but a beach and sand banks. Blankenberghe : July 34. The sea air is dong all good, the children especially, the heat had pulled them so. 1 have bathed once, and hope it will agree. . . . My cough and relaxed throat are getting better. The rooms are small and few, but clean, and the cooking good, and we are quite satisfied. There Is not a soul one knows. Blankenberghe: August 16. This day makes me fliink of our dear kind Grandmamma, "whose image still dwells amongst us! None who ever knew her can forget how truly lovable she was; and we grandchildien will ever 174 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. retain such a bright recollection of her. So many little attentions, small souvenirs, kind letters, all tokens o± affection so pleasing to the receivers. Yesterday Louis saved a lady from drowning. He was bathing. The waves were high, and he heard a cry for help, and saw a bather struggling. She had lost her footing. Her husband tried to help her, but was exhausted and let her go; equally so the brother-in- law, and Louis felt he was losing his strength, but she iiept her pres- ence of mind and floated. He let her go once till a wave brought her near him again, and he caught her hand and brought her in, feeling quite done himse'^f. 1 was not in the sea at the time, for the waves were so tremendous that 1 lost my footing several times, and had come out, fearing an accident. The lady is a Mrs. T. Sligo, a Scotchwoman, and she has just written to me to thank Louis. He is a good swimmer, and very strong. The gentlemen are two gray- haired Scotchmen. Ella has so wonderfully improved since she has been here. She- is no more pale and languid, and Ernie is another child also. Luckily it has not been warm so the air and baths are doubly efficacious. They have done me a world of good. 1 feel quite dif- ferent to what 1 have done ever since Sunny 's birth. 1 believe the sea to be the only thing for such a relaxed state, and, being strong and healthy by nature, 1 can't bear not being well and feeling so weak. Miss Graves has returned, but the girls have been very good — no trouble at all. Kranichstein : August 26. On dear Papa's birthday 1 must send you a few lines. The past is ever bright and vivid in my mind, though year after year intervenes. How must it be for you, who live surrounded by such precious recollections of the happy past! 1 think doubly of you to-day, and doubly tenderly, sweet Mamma! 1 got home quite right, and found the house here cold. There was no sun, and our rooms being to the north, and the wood so near, makes them feel chilly. 1 am glad dear Leopold bore the journey well. The air "will do him good in his weakened state. The day at Laeken was quiet and pleasant. Marie is still thinner and more aged, 1 think. The loss of that nice boy weighs on them still, and they spoke much about it, and she with many tears. Everyone has his burden to bear, and must bear it alone with trust and resignation — that is the thing to struggle and to pray for. Kranichstein : September 1. . . . I shall get a comforter done for good Mrs. Brown, kind old woman. 1 am glad she does not forget me, and shall be pleased to do any \VA\t thing that can give her pleasure. "Will you tell her, the plaid she made me still goes everywhere with me? How is Mrs. Gram ? Louis is gone, and I have a good deal to do every day. We break- fast at half -past eight, then 1 have Baby and take the children out till eleven. 1 then have business. Baby, and, at one, the elder girls alternately for French reading. iVfter luncheon I write my letters. ALICE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 175 &c., and before five go out. In the evenings 1 read, and have sup- per at eight with the two ladies. Ella is another child since she has been at the seaside — fine color, no longer pale and languid, learns well, and is quite different. Ernie the same, bright and fresh; while before they had been looking pulled and weak, outgrowing their strength. " Sunny " is the picture of robust health, and sweet little " sister Mai}"- " sits up quite alone, and is very neat and rosy, with such quick eyes, and two deep dimples in her cheeks— a great pet, and so like my poor Frittie. The return here has been very painful, and days of great depres- sion still come, when I am tormented with the dreadful rem.em- brance of the daj 1 lost him. Too cruel and agonizing are those thoughts. 1 dwell on Jiis rest and peace, and that our sufferings he cannot know. What might not life have brought him? Better so! but hard to say, " God's will be done." Kranichstein : September 15. . . . 's conversion has created no smaller sensation with us than elsewhere, and the Times criticised his step so sharply. It re- mains a retrograde movement for any Protestant, how much more so for a man of his stamp! Quite incomprehensible to me. . . . This Catholic movement is so u?i-EnglM. 1 think, among those Ritualists there are 5(9?irt^(fe Catholics who help to convert. . . . I will send you sweet little Maly's photograph next time. . . . Baby has a very fair skin, light-brown hair and deep blue eyes with marked eyebrows, not much color in her cheeks, but pink and iiealthy -looking altogether. Kranichstein : September 34. . . . People with strong feelings and of nervous temperament, for which one is no more responsible than for the color of one's eyes, have things to fight against and to put up with, unknown to those of quiet equable dispositions, who are tree from violent emotions, and have consequently no feeling of nerves — still less, of irritable nerves. If 1 did not control mine as much as 1 could, they would be dreadful. . . . One can overcome a great deal — but alter one's self one cannot. . . . October 31. ... 1 always think, that in the end children educate the parents. For their sakes there is so much one must do: one must forget one's self, if everything is as it ought to be. It is doubly so, if one has the misfortune to lose a precious child. Rilckert's lovely lines are so true (after the loss of two of his children) : Nun hat euch Gott veriieh'ii, was wir auch woUten thun, Wir wollten euch erzieh'n, und ihr erzieht uns nun. O Kinder, ihr erziehet niit Schmerz die Eltern ietzt; Ihr zieht an uns, und ziehet uns auf zu euch zuletzt.* Yesterday Ernie was telling Orchard that 1 was going to plant acme Spanish chestnuts, and she said, " Oh, 1 shall be dead and * Now unto you the Lord has done what we had wished to do; We would have train'd you np. and now 'tis we are train'd by you. With grief and tears. O children, do you your parents train, And lure us on and up to you, to meet in heaven again. 176 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. gone before they are big; what a pity we had noae sooner!" and Ernie burst out crying and said, " No, you must not die alone — I don't like people to die alone-; we must die all together!" He has said the same to me before, poor darling. After Lenchen's [Princess Christian's] boys were gone, and he had seen Eddy and Georgy [sons of Prince of Wales], his own loss came fresh upon him, and he cried for his little brother! It is the remaining behind tjie loss, the missing of the dear ones, that is the cruel thing to bear. Only time can teach one that, and resignation to a Higher Will. . . . Darmstadt : November 9. . . . The new Church laws (similar to the Prussian) go through our Upper Chamber to-morrow, and will meet with great opposition. Louis is, of course, for accepting them, as a check must be put on the Catholics; for the Catholic clergy are paid by the State as well as the Protestant, so that the State has an equal right over both; but this right the Catholics have for years managed to evade. The Bisnop of Mayence is doing his utmost to create every possible obstacle, but it is to be hoped that one will not here have recourse to the method of fines and impiisonment as in Prussia. ... November 16. Many thanks for your dear letter, and for the advice, which, as a mark of your interest in our children, is very precious, besides being so good! What you mention 1 have never lost sight of, and there is, as you say, nothing more injurious for children than that they should be made a fuss about. 1 want to make them unselfish, unspoiled, and contented; as yet this is the case. That they take a greater place in my life, than is often the case in our families, comes from my not being able to have enough persons of a responsible sort to take charge of them always; certain things remain undone from, that reason, if 1 do not do them, and they would be the losers. I certainly do not belong by nature to those women who are above all wife ; but circumstances have forced me to be the mother in the real sense, as in a private family, and I had to school myself to it, I assure you, for many small self-denials have been necessary. Baby- worship, or having the children indiscriminately about one, is not at all the right thing, and a perpetual talk about one's children makes some women intolerable. 1 hope 1 steer clear of these faults — at least 1 try to do so, for I can only agree in every word you say, as does Louis, to whom 1 read it; and he added when I was reading- your remarks, " Das thust Du aber nicht. Die Kinder und andere Menschen wissen gar nicht, was Du flir sie thust," ["But you don't do so. Neither the children nor anybody else knows what you do for them "]. He has often complained that 1 would not have the children enough in my room, but, being of your opinion,, where it was not necessary, 1 thought it better not. . . . December 12. I inclose a few lines to Mr. Martin.* I have only had time to look at the preface, and am very glad to hear that you are satisfied. * The first volume of whose Life of the Prince Consort had just been pub- lished. ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 177 With what interest shall I read it ! You will receive these lines on the 14th. Last year 1 had the comfort of being near yon. It did me real good then, and 1 thank you again for those short and quiet days, where the intercourse with you was .so soothing to my aching heart. There is no Umgang [intercourse] 1 know, that gives me more happiness than when 1 can be with you — above all, in quiet. The return to the so-called world 1 have barely made. Life is seri- ous — a journey to another end. The flowers God sends to brighten our path I take with gratitude and enjoy; but much that was dear- est, most precious, which this day commemorates, is in the grave; part of my heart is there too, though their spirits, adored Papa's, live on wilh me, the holiest and brightest part of life, a star to lead us, were we but equal to following it ! The older 1 grow the more perfect, the mure touching and good, dear Papa's image stands be- fore me. Such an entire life for duty, so joyously and unpretending- ly borne out, remains for all times something inexpressibly fine and grand! With it how tepder, lovable, gay, he was! 1 can never talk of him to others who have not known him, without tears in my eyes — as I have them now. fie was and is my ideal. I never knew a man fit to place beside him, or so made to be devotedly loved and admired. ... December 14. Before this day is over, I must write a few words — my thoughts are so much with you and n'ith the past, the bright happy past of my childhood, where beloved Papa was the center of this rich and happy existence. I have spent nearly the whole day with the pre- cious volume which speaks so much of you and of him. What a man in every sense of the word ; what a Prince he was — so entirely what the dear old Baron [Stockmar] urged him always to be ! Life with him must have seemed to you so secure and well- guarded. How you must have loved him! It makes one's heart ache again and again, in reading and thinking of all dear Papa was to you, that you should have had to part from him in tho heat of the day, when he was so necessary. Ihm ist icold [With him it is well].' ^ life like his was a whole long life-time, though only twenty-two years, and he well deserved his rest! The hour is nearing when we last held and pressed his hand in life, now thirteen years ago. How well 1 recollect that last sunrise, and then the dreadful night with you that followed on that too awful day! But it is not well to dwell on these things, when we have the bright sunny past to look back to. Tennyson's beautiful Dedication^ expresses all one feels and would wish to say. 1 can only add, with a heavj^-di'awn sigh, " Oh, to be worthier of such a Father!" How far beneath him, if not alwaj^s in aims, at least ia their fulfillment, have I always remained! December 17. My best thanks for the letter of the 15th. Poor Colonel Grey'sf death is shocking, and Bertie and Alix are sure to have felt it * To 27ie Idylls of the King. + Only child of Sir George Grey, and Equerry to the Prince of Wales. He died at Sandringham, of inHammation of the lungs. 178 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. deeply. Dear Bertie's true and constant heart sufiters on such, occa- sions, for he can be constant in friendship, and all who serve him serve him with warm attachment. 1 hope he won't give way to the idea of Sandringham being unlucky, though so much that has been trying and sad has happened to them there! Superstition is surely a thing to fight against; above all, with the feeling that all is in God's hands, not in ours! How interesting the book is [Life oj the Prince Consort\ ! I have finished it, and am befriedigt [satisfied]. It was a difficult under- taking, but Mr. Martin seems to have done it very well. 1 am sure dear Osborne is charming as ever, but I can't think of that large house so empty; no children any more; it must seem so forsaken in our old wing. 1 have such a Heimweh [yearning] to see Osborne again after more than six years ! . . . 1875. Each year the Princess Alice endeavored by some public effort or other — either a di amatic or musical performance — to collect funds for her many charitable institiitions which, as they extended their field of usefulness, were more and more in need of pecuniary help. Artists as well as amateurs gladly offered their services on all such occasions. In the beginning of this year the Prince and Princess and their children went to England for two months, spending part of the time with the Queen, and part with the Prince and Princess of Wales. The two eldest daughters, Victoria and Elizabeth, accom- panied their grandmother to Balmoral in May. The whole family returned to Darmstadt at the end of June. In July the Prince and Princess Louis were present at the " coming of age" of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Baden. The rest of the summer was spent at Kranichstein. In 1874 the Hessian Government had amended their educational laws for the schools, and had established, as a fundamental princi- ple, that needlework in all its branches should be taught in all girls' schools, and. that suitable teachers for this purpose should be en- gaged. To meet this necessity, a course of lectures and instruction in thwart of needlework was instituted by the "Alice Society," open to women and girls of all classes. This has proved in its re- sults of real blessing and benefit to the whole country. [The next two letters arose out of the expression of an opinion on the part of some of the Prince Consort's friends, that the puWica- tion of his Life under the sanction of the Queen, with unreserved full- ness of details, had been premature.] Darmstadt : January 3, 1875. ... It is touching and fine in you to allow the world to have so much insight into your private life, and allow others to have "what has been only youi' property and our Inheritance. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 179 People can only be the better for reading about dear Papa, such as he was, and such as so feelingly and delicately Mr. Theodore Martin places him before them. To me the volume is inexpressibly precious, and opens a field for thought in various senses. For the frivolous higher classes how valuable this book will be, if read with real attention, as a record of a life spent in the highest aims, with the noblest conception of duty as a leading star. To this letter Her Majesty replied: — Osborne: January 13, 1875. . . . Dearest Alice, — Now as regards the book. If you will reflect a few minutes, you will see, how 1 owed it to beloved Papa to let his noble character be known and understood, as it now is, and that to wait longer, when those who knew him best — his own wife, and a few (very few there are) remaining friends — were all gone, or too old, and too far removed from that time, to be able to present a really true picture of his most ideal and remarkable char- acter, would have been really wrong. He must be known, for his own sake, for the good of England and of his family, and of the world at large. Countless people write to say, what good it does and will do. And it is already thirteen years since he left us ! Tlien you must also remember, that endless false and untrue things have been written and said about us, public and private, and that in these days people will write and will know: therefore the only way to counteract this is to let the real, full truth be known, and as much be told as can be told with prudence and discretion, and then no harm, but good, will be done. Nothing will help me more, than that my people should see what 1 have lost! Numbers of people we knew have had their Lives and Memoirs published, and some beautiful ones. Bunsen's, by his wife; Lord Elgin's, by his (very touching and interesting); Lord Palmerston's; &c., &c. The Early Tears volume was begun for private circulation only, and then General Grey and many of Papa's friends and advisers begged me to have it published. This was done. The work was most popular, and greatly liked. General Grey could not go on with it, and asked me to ask Sir A. Helps to continue it, and he said that he could not, but recommended Mr. Theodore Martin as oue of the most eminent writers of the day, and hoped 1 could prevail on him to undertake this great national work. 1 did succeed, and he has taken seven years to prepare the whole, supplied by me wilh every, letter and extract: and a deal of time it took, but 1 felt it would be a national sacred work. You must, I think, see 1 am right now; Papa and 1 too would have suffered otherwise. 1 think even the German side of his character will be understood. One of the things that pleases people most is the beautiful way in which he took all good Stockmar's often very severe observations. And they also admire so much good old Stockmar's honesty, fear- lessness, and are pleased to be shown what a dear warin-hearted old man he was. Your devoted Mamma, V. R. 180 ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. January 18. . . . The service in Dr. Weber's study before the open coffin, filled with flowers, was very affecting. He was truly beloved and respected. His sufferings must have been intense, and for many years borne heroically — not a word said: not a complaint; always ready to bear the sorrows of others with them, yet bearing his own unassisted! Wonderful self-command and unselfishness 1 He knew his illness was fatal; even to the latter weeks considered his days as but few, and put all in order, without letting his family and friends know what he himself only too well foresaw. It was a stormy afternoon with pouring rain when he was buried. Louis, his poor boy, and many were out. ... We have April weal her. I have a very heavy cold, and feel so weak and done up. It is too warm and unhealthy : every place smells, our house especially. January 27. . . . My little May has such a cold, which lessens her usual smiles. She is a fine strong child, more like what Victoria was, but marked eyebrows, with the fair hah* and such speaking eyes. She and Aliky are a pretty contrast! February 14. You say of the drains just what 1 have said from year to year; and this summer — if we can get away in the spring, when it is most unwholesome — what can be done is to be done, and 1 hope with bet- ter success than what has hitherto been attempted. My little May cannot get rid of her cough, though she looks pink and smiling. 1 shall be so glad to show her to you — she is so pretty and dear. My father in-law has for the first time got the gout in his feet, and is so depressed. Uncle Louis suffers dreadfully from oppression at night, so that he can't remain in bed. He is a good deal aged, and stoops dreadfully. . . . March 14. Louis gave me a dreadful fright last week by suddenly break- ing through the ice, and at a very deep place. He laid his arms over the thicker ice, and managed to keep above water till some one was near enough to help him out. He said the water drew immensely, and he feared getting under the ice. The gentleman, who is very tall, lay down and stretched his arms out to Louis, another man holding the former: and so he got out without ill effects. As it was at Kranichstein, he undressed and rubbed himself before the stove in the Verwalter's [land-steward's] room; and he came home in the Verwalter's clothes, which looked very funny. . . . Marlborough House : May 15. I did not half thank you yesterday for our pleasant visit. I €Ould not trust myself to speak. 1 felt leaving you again so much. It has been a great happiness to me, so iDoliltJiuend [doing me so much good] to have been with you, and 1 can never express what 1 feel, as 1 would, nor how deep and tender my love and gratitude to you are! The older I grow, the more precious the Yerlialtnus [re- lation] to a mother becomes to me, and how doubly so to you! Louis feels as I do ; his love to j'ou has always been as to his own ALICE, GKAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 181 mother; and my tears besjin to run, whenl recall your dear face and voice, which to see and hear again has seemed so natural, so — as it out^ht to be! that it is quite difficult to accustom myself to the thought that only in memory can I enjoy them now. How I do love you, sweet Mamma! There is no sacrifice 1 would not make for you: and as our meetings are of late years so fleeting and far bet ween, when they are over, 1 feel the separation very much. . . . Marlborough House : June 15. . . . God bless you, my precious Mother, watch over and guard you; and let your blessing and motherly interest accompany us and our cliildren ! Louis' tenderest love; many, many kisses from all children, and William's respectful duty! Kranichstein : June 20. . . . K\l Victoria and Ella tell me of their stay at Balmoral — the many things you gave them and their people — touches me so much: let me thank you so many limes again. I feel 1 did not half say enough, but you know 7iow mucJi I feel it ! Our journey did very well; no one was ill, after that dreadful storm — a piece of luck. Tou are now again at Windsor. How much I think of you and of dear Beatrice ! July 10. . . . We got home from Carlsruhe at eleven o'clock last night. We went there on Thursday; arrived al two; were received there by Fritz and Louise and the Emperor; found dear Marie Leiningen and Hermann and Leopoldine there. Fritz W . arrived half an hour afterward from Vienna, having met with a railway accident in tbe night; but he was, thank God, unhurt — barely shaken. it was frightfully hot! Family dinner at five; then a drive about the town, which was decked with flags. At nine in the evening a large soiree and continual circle! and supper — such a heat! At eight next morning in gala, church service. Fritz (son) for the first time in uniform with the Black Eagle; then at ten a very fine parade, in which Fritz rnarched past as second lieutenant with his regiment. The troops were so fine; the Emperor led his own regiment past, and it was a very moving sight, with a great deal of cheering. At two, there was a large banquet, at which Fritz made a beautiful speech, and the Emperor a very good answer. All Fritz's (son) former school-fellows, and the ditferent schools and masters, came by in procession, and the day was very fatiguing. He is such a good boy. His former tutor, who finished his task of education yesterday, said to me: " Er ist ein gute?' Mensch und die Wahrheit selber " [He is a good man, and truth itself]. He was very self-possessed, modest, and civil, talking to everyone. He is full of promise, and has been carefully and lovingly brought up by his parents, who are such excellent people. I have the greatest re- gard for them. I told the Emperor the frie:ht we had about the war. He was much distressed, that anyone could believe him capable of such a thing; but our Fritz and Fritz of Baden agree that, with Bismarck, in spite of the nation not wishing it, he might brmg about a war at any moment. Our Fritz spoke so justly and reasonably— quite anti- 183 ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. ■war— and I told him all the opinions 1 had gathered and heard in London; and he was much grieved and worried, I could see; but it must and can be prevented, if all are against it, 1 am sure. This enormous and splendid army, ready at any moment, is a dangerous possession for any country. . . . Kranichstein : October 7. . . . To-day my eyes will not remain dry; the recollection of five years ago, which brought us joy and promise of more in our sweet second boy, is painlul in the extreme. The sudden ending of that young life; the gap this has left; the recollections that are now but to be enjoyed in silent memory, will leave a heart-ache and a sore place, beside where there is much happiness and cause of grati- tude. The six children and we, with endless flowers and tears, decked his little grave this morning, and some sad lines of Byron's struck me as having much truth in the pain of such moments— But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, And saw around me the wide field revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive. With all her reckless birds upon the wing, I turned from all she brought, to those she could not bring.* The weather is fine; it was much like this five years ago, but round Metz it rained. Louis was turning into quarters with his troops from a sortie, and he called the news out to the regiments as he rode along, and they gave a cheer for their little Prince! It was a dreadful time of trial and separation for both of us, and Frittie was such a comfort and consolation to me in all my loneliness. How sorry I am for poor Alix at this long separation 1 f For her sake I grieve at the impossibility of her accompanying him. We hope to get back to our house by the 19th, though there will be an end of nice walks for the next eight months — the town grows so, and is all railroad and coal-heaps where we had our walks for- merly, and the town pavement in the streets is most unpleasant walking, . . . Schloss Kranichstein : October 16. For. our dear letter and for the inclosures I am so grateful, but distressed beyond measure at dear Fanny's [Lady Frances Baillie]. 1 had a long letter from her some weeks back, when she was more hopeful about dear Augusta [Stanley]. This is too much sorrow for them all ! Fanny I love as a sister, and dear Augusta's devotion and self-sacrifice to you, and even to us in those dreadful years, was something rare and beautiful. Her whole soul and heart were in the duty, which to her was a sacred one. The good, excellent Dean! My sympathy is so great with these three kind and good people so sorely tried. 1 grieve for you, too ! God help them ! October 36. How sorry I am for dear good old Mrs. Brown and for her * Childe Harold, canto iii. stanza 30. + During the visit of the Prince of Wales to India. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 183 sons. * Please say something sympathizing from me; her blindness Is such a tiial, poor soul, at that age. How gloomily life must close for her ! 1876. Although this new year brought no actual change to the usual routine of the daily life in the Princess's home, and although the Princess was able to fulfill her social duties, traces of serious illness now began to show themselves by repeated attacks of exhaustion and Aveakness. These attacks were partially relieved by a short stay in the Black Forest in June, and by a visit to England and Scotland, which she made without her husband. The Prince had been de- tained in Germany by the great maneuvers, on the conclusion of which he fetched her from England, in the autumn. On their way back to Darmstadt they stopped at Brussels. They also visited Coblenz, to pay their respects to the Empress of Germany, who had been to see their children at Darmstadt in October. January 18, 1876. 'No words can express how deep my sympathy and grief is for what our dear Augusta and the Dean have to go through. With her warm, large heart, which ever lived and suffered for others, liow great must her pain be in having to leave him ! 1 can positively think of nothing else lately, as you know my love for Augusta, the General [her brother, General Bruce] and Fanny has always been great; and when 1 think back of them in former times, and in the year 1861, my heart aches and my tears flow — feeling what you and we shall lose in dear Augusta. My pity for the dear good kind Dean is so deep. 1 sent him a few words again to-day, in the hope he may still say a few words of love and gratitude to dear Augusta from me. Darmstadt: January 22. . . . Yesterday morning Ernie came in to me and said, " Mam- ma, 1 had a beautiful dream; shall I tell you? 1 dreamt that I was dead and was gone up to Heaven, and there 1 asked God to let me have Frittie again; and he came to me and took my hand. You were in bed, and saw a great light, and were so frightened, and 1 said, " It is Ernie and Frittie." "You were so astonished! The next night Frittie and I went with a great light to sisters. " Is it not touching? He says such beautiful things, and has such deep poetic thought, yet with it all so full of fun and romping. February 9. . . . I am SO sorry and shocked about excellent Mr. Harrison. f What a loss ! He was so obliging and kind always in the many com- * Her husband, the father of the Queen's personal attendant, John Brown, bad just died. See More Leaves from a Journal. + Secretary in the oflfice of the Privy Purse. 184 ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. missions for us children. Poor Krauslach,* too — so sad! It is too grievous; how one well-known face — with its many associations — after another, is called away; and on looking back, how short a space of time they seem to have filled! Wolfach : June 7. . . . The heat here is excessive ; the wild flowers covering every field are more beautiful than I have ever seen them anywhere — such, quantities of large forget-me-nots. The streams are very much like Scotch ones; the valleys are partly verj^ narrow, and the hills wooded to the very top— rather like the Thiiringer Wald, but more diffeient greens: such lovely coloring. 1 admire the country so much. Darmstadt : June 83. . . . How sorry I am for good kind old Mrs., Brown — to be blind with old age seems so hard, so cruel; but 1 am sure with your so loving heart you have brightened her latter years in many kind ways. It is such a pleasure to do anything for the aged ; one has such a feeling of respect for those- who have the experience of a long life, and are nearing the goal. . . . Yesterday, again, the Emperor Alexander spoke to me, really rejoicing that the political complications were clearing peace- fully: " Dites S Maman encore une fois comme cela me rejouit, et de savoir comme c'est elle qui tient ^ la paix. Nous ne pouvons, nous ne voulons pas nous brouiller avec I'Angleterre. 11 faudrait gtre fou de penser^ Constantinople ou aux Indes!" He had tears in his eyes, and seemed so moved, as if a dreadful weight was beine: lifted ofi ; so happy for the sake of Marie and AflSie, too, that matters were mending. He showed me after dinner the buttons you gave him, spoke also so afiiectionately of Bertie. ... 1 thought of you — thirty-nine years of rule not to be envied, save for the service one can render one's country and the world in general in such an arduous position. Private individuals are, of course, far the best off — our privileges being more duties than advantages — and their absence would be no privation compared to the enormous advantage of being one's own master, and of being on equality with most people, and able to know men and the world, as they are, and not merely as they please to show themselves to please us. . . . Darmstadt : July 5. . . . We dined with Uncle Louis, the Emperor &c., and Grand Duke of Weimar, at Seeheim yesterday. The Emperor said he had written to you, but Prince Gortschakoti: seemed only half-happy, and said to me: " Franchement puis-je vous le dire, je desirerais voir I'Angleterre graude, forte, decidee dans la politique, comme I'etait Canning et les grands hommes d'etat que j'ai connus en Angleterre il y aquarante ans. La Russie est grande et forte; que I'Angleterre le soit aussi; nous n'avons pas besoin de faire attention ^ tons les petits. " He said we made our foreign policy and dispatches for the Blue Book, and not an open decided policy before the House of Commons and the world. It may interest you to hear this opinion, as it shows the temper of his policy. * The Prince Consort's head groom, who had come over with him to England. ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 185 September 5. It is long since 1 have felt sucli pain as the death (to me really- sudden and unexpected, in spite of the danger inherent in her case) of my good, devoted, kind Emily* has caused me. My tears won't cease. Louis, the children, the whole household, all mourn and grieve with me. She was singularly beloved, and richly deserved to be so. Her devotion and aftection to me really knew no bounds. I cannot think what it will be to miss her. 1 have never been served as she served me, and probably never shall be so again. It is a wrench that only those can estimate who knew her well — like poor Mary Hardinge. She came first in Emily's heart, and the loss for her is quite, quite irreparable! Had 1 but seen dear Emily again! This sudden, cruel sort of death shocks me so. How 1 should have nursed and comforted her had 1 been near her! She always wished this, and told me she had such a fear of death. There never breathed a more unselfish, generous, good character. September 6. ... I fear you will find me so dull, tired, and useless. 1 can do next to nothing of late, and must rest so much. Poor Emily! My thoughts never leave her. 1 cannot yet get accustomed to the thought of her loss. P.S. — Just received your dear note. The accounts of my dear Emily's sad end have just reached me, and I am terribly upset. "You can hardly estimate the gap, the blank she will leave — my only lady, and in many ways liomme d'affaires. We had been so much together this last waiting; everything reminds me of her, and of the touching love she bore me. Surely some years more she would have lived. Darling Mamma, I don't think you quite know how far from well 1 am, and how absurdly wanting in strength. 1 only mention it, that you should know that until the good air lias set me up I am good for next to nothing; and I fear 1 sha'n't be able to come to din- ner the first evenings. I hope you won't mind. I have never in my life been like this before. 1 live on my sofa, and in the air, and see no one, and yet go on losing strength. Of course this unexpected shock has done me harm too, and has entailed more sad things. . . . Douglas's Hotel, Edinburgh: September 11, Sunday. ... 1 hear Ernie is still so dull and melancholy at missing me; he always feels it most, with that tender loving heart of his. God preserve and guard this to me so inexpressibly precious child ! 1 fancy that seldom a mother and child so understood each other, and loved each other, as we two do. It requires no words; he reads in my eyes, as 1 do in his what is in his little heart. It is so wonderfully still here, not a soul in the streets. The people of the house have sent up several times to inquire when and to what church 1 was going; so 1 shall go, as it seems to shock them, one's staying away. I shall see the Monument this afternoon, and go and see flolyrood again. The whole journey here brought back with the well-remembered scenery the recollection of my childhood, all * The Hon. Emily Caroline Hardinge, the Princess's Lady-in- Waiting, died in London on the 4th of September, 1876. 186 ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. the happy journeys with dear Papa and you. How the treasured remembrance, with the deep love, lives on, when all else belongs to the past 1 I seem, in retaining here, so near you and him and former happy years, when my home was in this beloved country. No home in tJtie world can quite become what the home of one's parents and child- hood was. There is a sacredness about it, a feeling of gratitude and love for the great mercies one had there. You, who never left country, Oescfiwister [kindred], or home, can -scarcely enter into this feeling. In the hopes of meeting you soon, kissing your dear hands, with thanks for all goodness, and many excuses for having caused so much trouble. . . . Buckingham Palace : October 19. I was so sad at parting with j^ou yesterday. I could not half thank you for all your love and kindness during those weeks. But you know how deeply 1 feel it ; how truly grateful 1 am to you ; how happy and contented. 1 am to be allowed to be near you as in old days. Darling Mamma, once more, thousand thanks for all and for everything ! The journey went quite well, and I am not particularly tired. Buckingham Palace : November 19. Thousand thanks for your dear letter received this morning ! I feel leaving dear England, as always, though the pleasure of being near the children again is very great. Let me thank you once more from my heart, darling Mamma, for all your great kindness, and for having enabled me to do what was thought necessary and best. 1 return so much stronger and better than I came, in every way — refreshed by the pleasant stay in dear Balmoral with you, and then much better for the time here. 1 feel morally refreshed, too, with the entire change, the many interests to be met with here, which is always so beneficial, and will help me in every way when I get back to Darmstadt. AH this I have to thank you for, and do so most wannly. Louis, who, as you know, is full of love and affection for you, is very grateful for your kind words, and has likewise derived profit and enjoyment from his stay in England. . . . My color and strength have so much returned, that 1 do not doubt being well again this winter. I went with Dean Stanley to see Mr. Carlyle, who was most in- teresting, and talked for nearly an hour. Had 1 had time, 1 would have written down the conversation. The Dean said he would try and do so. With Louise 1 visited Mr. Motley also, who in his way is equally interesting, and has a great charm. . . . Darmstadt : November 26. Many thanks for your last letter from Balmoral, received yes- terday morning! I know you feel leaving the dear place, but with- out going away there is no Weidersehen [meeting again]. The hap- piness of our meeting with the dear children was very great on all sides — they eat me up ! ALICE, GEAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 187 They had made wreaths over the doors, and had no end of things to tell me. We arrived at three, and there was not a moment's rest till they were all in bed, and I had heard the different prayers and hymns of the six, with all the little diiferent confidences they had to make. My heart was full of joy and gratitude at being with them once more, and 1 prayed God to make me fit to be their real friend and stay as long as they require me, and to have the insight into tlieir different characters to guide them aright, and to understand their different wants and feelings. This is so difiicult always. Victoria is immensely grown, and her figure is forming. She h changing so much— beginning to leave the child and grow into the girl.. I hear she has been good and desirous of doing what is right; and she has more to contend with than Ella, therefore double merit in any little thing she overcomes, and any self-sacrifice she makes. Ernie is very well, and his birthday was a great delight. Sweet Httle May is enchanting—" my %ceet heart," as she calls me. Aliky is very handsome and dear. Darmstadt : December 12. 1 see this letter will just arrive on the 14th — day never to be forgotten ! How deepl}^ it is graven in my heart — with letters of blood; for the pain of losing Mm, and of witnessing your grief, waa as sharp as anything any child can go through for its beloved par- ents. Yet, God's mercy is to be found through all, and one learns to say " Thy will be done," hard though it is. . . . 1877. The health of Prince Charles of Hesse (father of Prince Louis) had for some time past given cause for great anxiety. He had always suffered from violent headaches and a delicate throat. On the evening Of the llth of March he was seized with erysipelas, and died peacefully on the 20th. The Princess shared the grief of her mother-in-law and family most truly ; for Prince Charles, though outwardly shy and retiring, was a man of great cultivation and re- finement, and had made himself beloved by all who knew him. He was buried in the Mausoleum at the Rosenhohe on the 24th of I March, The Grand Duke, who was deeply affected by his brother's death, and all the family were present. A month had scarcely passed since Prince Charles' death when the Grand Duke himself was attacked by serious illness at Seeheim, one of his summer residences, near Darmstadt, and died on the 13th of June at the age of seventy-one. Prince Louis was the next heir, and ascended the throne as Grand Duke Louis IV. The total change of circumstances, the heavy duties and responsi- bilities of her new position, came most unexpectedly upon the Prin- cess, and she scarcely felt herself equal to them. With her well- known conscientiousness and high feeling of duty it was not surpris- ing that they weighed heavily upon her, more especially as her health Jiad of late become very delicate. Still, the hope of being able to carry out many a plan for the welfare of her adopted country en- couraged her greatly. 188 ' ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. After the official receptions held by the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess were over, they left Darmstadt for the quiet little watering- place of Houlgate in ITormandy. The Gi'and Duke was only able to accompany the Grand Duchess as far as Metz, but he followed her later on with the children. The rest and quiet were good for them all; and, apparently much improved in health, the Grana Duchess returned for the first time as " mother of the country " {Landes- mutter] to Darmstadt. Her reception was of the warmest and most enthusiastic nature, which she took as a good omen for the future. The Emperor of Germany and the Crown Prince visited Darm- stadt at the end of September, for the purpose of assisting at the cavalry maneuvers, to the great satisfaction of the country. The change in Princess Alice's position in no wise affected her relations to her many charitable institutions, though she had of course many new responsibilities thrown upon her. Her constant endeavor was to be just and free from prejudice, to recognize what was good, no matter where, and to promote and further it to the best of her power. The Grand Duke and Grand Duchess saw much of the Crown Prince and Princess of Germanj-- during the latter part of the year, as they were living at Wiesbaden. Fraulein Louise Btichner, who had been for ten years so intimately connected with the Grand Duchess, not only as working with her for the good of others, but also by ties of the truest friendship, died on the 28th of November. Her death caused a gap which was sorely felt. A few days before her death, when she was already confined to her bed, she received a letter from the Grand Duchess herself, on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of the opening of the ' ' Alice Bazaar," thanking her for all she had done. The Grand Duchess had caused many of the pamphlets written by Miss Octavia Hill to be translated, in the hopes of encouraging in Darmstadt the authorities, and those at the head of private under- takings, to farther exertions for improving the condition of the poor. Whilst in England she had become acquainted with Miss Octavia Hill, " the warm-hearted friend of the poor," and had visited with her many of the poorer parts of London. She felt the sincerest ad- miration and respect for Miss Hill, and entirely shared her view, " that we must become the friends of the poor to be their benefac- tors. " The Grand Duchess did not wish to copy exactly in Ger- many what Miss Hill had done in London : but she hoped that the knowledge of what had been done in other places would be an in- centive to work in the same direction. At the beginning of this year ttie Grand Duchess had visited in strictest incognito the worst houses (in sanitary respects) inMayence, and determined to make a plan for the election of new dweUings for the working classes there. Darmstadt: Januaiy 1. . . . How beautifully Max Mliller's letter* is written and ex- pressed, and how touchingly and truly he puts the point of view on * Written after the death of his daughter. ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 189 which we all should learn to stand. To become again pure as chil- dren, with a child's faith and trust — there where our human intel- lect will ever stand still ! I have been reading some of Robertson's sermons again, and 1 think his view of Christianity one of the truest, warmest, and most beautiful 1 know. ... Darmstadt : Blarch 23. Thank you so much for your dear and sympathizing letter. These have been most painful — most distressing days — so harrowing. The recollections of 1861, of dear Frittie's death, when my dear father-in-law was so tender and kind, were painfully vivid. My mother-in-law's resignation and touching goodness, doing all that she could during the illness and since for all arrangements, is very beautiful ! The poor sons gave way to bursts of tears during those agonizing hours; yet they-held their father alternately with me, and were quiet and helpful for their mother and for him, just as their simple quiet natures teach them. 1 begged Bauerlein to write to you meanwhile. I am feeling so exhausted, and there is so much to do, and we are always going from one house to the other. It was heartrending from Monday morn till Tuesday eve, to see the painful alteration in the dear well-known features augmenting from hour to hour, though I believe he did not suffer latterly. He was not conscious, unless spoken to, or called very directly. My mother-in-law never left his bedside day or night, and we were only a few hours absent on Monday night. Before we went home, she called our names distinctly to him as Ave kissed him, and he seemed to notice it; then she knelt down, and distinctly, but choked with tears, prayed the Lord's Prayer for him, calling him gently. The next day at six we were there again, and till half-past .six in the evening never left the bedside. She repeated occasionally, as long as she thought he might hear, a short verse— s— New Palace, Darmstadt. " Dear Mrs. Vicars,— I have returned from visiting the Home so convinced of your excellent management of it in every respect, that, if you still feel my becoming Patroness of the Home (and of the Ladies' Association connected with it) can further the good and noble work, I am most willing to comply with your request. The spirit of true, loving. Christian sj-mpathy in which the work was bgun by you, and with which it is carried out ; the cheertulness you impart, the motherly solicitude you offer to those struggling to retui-n to a better life, cannot fail to restore in a great measure that feeling of self-respect so necessary to those voluntarily seeking once more a virtuous life, and by so doing regaining the respect of their fellow creatures. " Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto Me. " In this spirit may the Home, as well as the Association connected with it, continue itsgood work- My entire sympathy and good wishes will ever be with it. " Ever yours truly, "Alice.'' After the Grand Duchess's return to Darmstadt, she devoted her- self with redoubled energy to all her charitable institutions ; but, alas! she felt more and more that her bodily strength was no longer equal to her exertions. In the autumn she had the happiness of seeing several of her fam- ily at Darmstadt, the last of them being her brother. Prince Leo- pold. Darmstadt : January 26. Though I have no letter, and expect none at such a moment, still I must send you a few lines to tell you how constantly I think of you, and of mj^ own beloved and adored countiy. The anxiety you must be going through, and the feelings you must experience, 1 share with my whole heart. . . . God grant it may be possible to do the right thing, for it is late, and the complication is dreadful! 1 have barely any thoughts for anything else; and the Opposition seems to me to have been more wrong in its country's interest, and to have done her a greater harm than can ever be redressed. It is a serious, awful moment for Sovereign, country, and Government; and in your position none have to go through what you have — and after all so alone ! I hope your health bears up under the anxiety. April 9. . . , Angeli has arrived, and will begin at once. "We thought Ernie and Ella— Victoria is too big, though she is the eldest and ought to be in the picture; she would be too preponderant. Angeli 196 ALICE, GRAHD DUCHESS OF HESSE.. is quite lost in admiration of Aliky and May, who are, 1 must say myself, such a lovely little pair as one does not often see. He will begin our heads to-morrow, ... Darmstadt: November 6. ... 1 am but very middling, and leading a very quiet life, which is an absolute necessity. It is so depressing to be like this. But our home life is always pleasant — never dull, however quiet. Only a feeling of weariness and incapacity is in itself a trial. On the 8th of November Princess Victoria was suddenly attacked with diphtneria. How and where she caught the illness remains unexplained. The Grand Duchess, always so courageous in illness, and fearing none, had, however, always had a great horror of diphtheria." Princess Victoria was at once isolated from her family and the others in the house; but, alas! to no purpose. Princess Alice superintended the nursing, aided by the nurses and the Lady Supermtendent of her hospital. The terrible anxiety of the poor mother during that illness is best described by her own telegrams and letters to the Queen. , Telegram. November 8. Victoria has diphtheria since this morning. The fever is high, 1 am so anxious,' Telegram. November 10. Victoria is out of danger. Telegram. November 13. This night my precious Aliky has been taken ilL Darmstadt •, November 12. This is dreadful i my sweet, precious Aliky so ill! At three this morning Orchie called me, saying she thought the child was feverish ; complaining of her throat. I went over to her, looked into her throat, and there were not only spots, but a thick covering on each side of her throat of that horrid white membrane, 1 got the steam inhaler, with chlorate of potash for her at once, but she was very unhappy, poor little thing. We sent for the doctor, who lives close by, and who saw at once that it was a severe case. We have put her upstairs near Victoria, who is quite convalescent, and have fumigated the nursery to try and spare May and the others. It is a terrible anxiety; it is such an acute, and often fatal, illness. . . . Victoria has been graciously preserved : may God preserve these [the younger ones] also in His mercy! My heart is sore; and 1 am so anxious. Telegram. November 13. Aliky tolerable. Darling May very ill; fever so high. IrSne has got it too. 1 am miserable; such fear for the sweet little one! On the 14th of November Prince Ernest and the Grand Duke were attacked with diphtheria, so that, up to that time. Princess Elizabeth only had escaped the infection. She was sent to her Graildffi0tbpi''8, Pjincess Cbfirles of Hesse's, palp,ce, ALICE, GRAKD DUCHESS OF HESSE. 397 Telegram. November 15. My precious May no better; suffers so much. 1 am in such lionibie fear. Irene and Ernie, fever less. Ernie's throat very swelled. Louis no worse; almost no spots. Aliky recovering. Evening:. Darling- May's state unchanged; heartrending. Louis' fever and illness on the increase. The others, as one could expect; all severe cases. May's most alarming. The sympathy with the Grand Duchess in her great anxiety was univereal. In many of the churches special services were held, pray- ing for the recover}^ of that dearly beloved family. The well-known suffering state of the Grand Duchess's own health, so sorely tried at this moment, caused the gravest fears to be entertained on her own accoimt. On the morning of the 16th of November sweet little Princess "May" — the Princess's "sunshine " as she ever called her — was taken from her doting pareats. The Grand Duchess telegraphed as follows to hei' mother >-* November 16. . . . Oul- sweet little one is taken. Broke it to my poor Louis this morning; he is better; Ernie very, very ill. In great anguish. Telegram. November 16 ; evening. The pain is beyond words, but " God's will be done!" Our precious Ernie is still a source of such terrible fear. The others, though not safe, better. Telegram. November 17. Ernie decidedly better; full of gratitude. Telegram. November 18. My patients getting better; hope soon to have them better. Last painful parting at three o'clock. The coflBn had to be closed very soon. It was entirely covered with flowers. The Grand Duchess quietly entered the room where it had been placed. Siie knelt down near it, pressing a corner of the pall to her lips; then she rose, and the funeral service began. When it was over, she cast one long, loving look at the coflBn which hid her darling from her. She then left the room and slowly walked upstairs. At the top of the stairs she knelt dowm, and tak- ing hold of the golden balustrade, looked into the mirror opposite to her to watch the little coffin being taken out of the house. She was marvelouslj^ calm ; only long-drawn sighs escaped her. When all had left the palace, she went to the Grand Duke, who was to be kept in ignorance of all that was going on. The Grand Duchess had herself arranged every detail of the funeral. Telegram., November 19. The continued suspense almost beyond endurance. Ernie thought he was going to die in the night, and was in a dreadful state for some 198 AJAGE, GEAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. hours. Louis very nervous, too; but they are not worse. The six cases have been one worse than the other. La(;er, November 19. Ernie had a relapse, and our fears are increased. I am in an agony between hope and fear. The Grand Duchess desired her warmest thanks to be expressed to the country for their heartfelt sympathy. On the 25th of November the Grand Duke was able for tne first time to leave his bed for a few hours, and on the 6th of December he and Prince Ernest drove out for the first time in a shut carriage. It was on this day that the Grand Duchess wrote for the last time to the Queen. No-vember 19. Beloved Mamma,— Tender thanks for your dear, dear letter, soothing and comforting! Our sweet May waits for us up there, and is not going through our agony, thank God! Her bright, happy, sunshiny existence has been a bright spot in our lives— but oh! how short! I don't touch on the anguish that fills me, for God in His mercy helps me, and it must be borne; but to-day again, the fear and anxiety for Ernie is still greater. This is quite agonizing to me; how 1 pray that he may be spared to me ! His voice is so thick; new membranes have appeared. He cries at times so bitterly, but he is gayer just now. To a mother's heart, who would spare her children every pain, to have to witness what I have, and am still doing, knowing all these precious lives hanging on a thread, is an agony barely to be con- ceived, save by those who have gone through it. . , Your letter says so truly all I feel. I can but say, in all one's agony there is a mercy and a peace of God, which even now He has let me feel. . . , P, S. — I mean to try and drive a little this afternoon. I shall go out with Orchie, Of my six children, since a week none more about me, and not my husband. It is like a very awful dream to me. November 22. Beloved Mamma, — Many thanks for your dear letter, and for all the expressions of sympathy shown by so many! 1 am very grate- ful for it. Dear Ernie having been preserved through the greatest danger is a source of such gratitude ! These have been terrible days ! He sent a book to May this morning. It made me almost sick to smile at the dear boy. But he must be spared yet awhile what to him will be such a sorrow. For myself, darling Mamma, God has given me comfort and help in all this trouble, and I am sure His Spirit will remain near us in the trials to come! Great sympathy, such as all show, is a balm; but 1 am very tired, and the pain is often very great; but pain can be turned into a blessing, and 1 pray this may be so. . . . When alone, 1 rest; and writing even is a physical exertion. Those ALICE. ORAND DUCHESS OF HESSE. 199 around me have spared me all they could, but one must bear the greater weight one's self. May God spare you 'all future sorrow, and give you the peace which He alone can give 1 P.S, — 1 finish these lines at my dear Louis' bed. Tie thanks you so much for your dear loving sympathy. Thank God, he is doing well. But the pain they have all gone through in their poor throats has been aioful. The doctors and nurses— eight ! for they have changed day and night, and had such conslaut attendance — have been all I could wish." Tour loving child, Alice. Darmstadt: December 1. . . . Everyone shows great sympathy, 1 hear, everywhere. . . . All classes have shown a great attachment to us personally, and to the House, and amongst the common people — it goes home to them that our position does not separate us so very far from them, and that in death, danger, and sorrow the palace and the hut are visited alike. So many deep and solemen lessons one learns in these times, and r believe all wojks together for good for those who believe in God. . . . December 2. So many pangs and pains come, and must yet for years to come. Still, gratitude for those left is so strong, and indeed resignation en- tire and complete to a higher will ; and so we all feel together, and encourage each other. Life is not endless in this wm-ld, God be praised! There is much joy — but oh! so much trial ana pain; and, as the number of those one loves increases in Heaven, it makes our passage easier — and home is there ! Ever your loving childj Alice. December 6. Louis and Ernie Tvill go out in a shut carriage to-day, though it rains — but it is warm. Louis' strength returns so slowly. Of course he shuns the return to life, where our loss will be more realized; to him, shut off so long, it is more like a dream. I am so thankful they were all spared the dreadful realities 1 went through — and alone. My cup seemed very full, and yet 1 have been enabled 1o bear it. But daily 1 must struggle and pray for resignation; it is a cruel pain, and one that will last years, as 1 know but too well. Ever your loving child, A, Amongst the last letters from the Grand Duchess is one written on the 6th of December, instructing Prince Ernest's new tutor in his duties. Princess Alice wished her sou to become a truly good man in every sense of the word — upright, truthful, courageous, unselfish, ready to help others, modest and retiring. She wished his tutor to encourage in him fear of God and submission to His will, a high sense of dutj^ a feeling of honor and of truth. It had been settled that as soon as the convalescent patients were 200 ALICE, GRIND DUCHESS OF HESSE. able to be moved, tlie whole Grand Ducal family should go to Hei- delberg for thorough, change of air. On the 7th of December the Grand Duchess went to the railway station to see the Duchess of Edinburgh, who was passing through Darmstadt on her way to England. That night she first com- plained of feeling ill; and on the following morning the unmistaka- ble symptoms of diphtheria had begun to show themselves. It is sup- posed that she must have taken the infection, when one day, in her grief and despair,' she had laid her head on her sick husband's pil- low. During the first day of her illness she settleU several things, and gave various orders in case of her death. Still it was evident that she thought she would recover. She bore her great sufferings with wonderful patience, and was most obedient to everything the doctors ordered her to do, however painful and trying. Those were terrible days ! How much so to her is apparent from short sentences which from time to time she wrote down on slips of paper. Everything was done to alleviate her sufferings — everything to encourage her. The high fever which set in at the commencement of the illness did not decrease on the third day as in the previous cases, though her sufferings were perhaps not so great. At times she was very restless and distressed. In the night of the 12th of December she gave many directions to her mother-in-law, and to her lady-in-waiting. At times, too, she spoke in the most touching manner about her household, also inquiring kindly after poor and sick people in the town. Then followed hours of great prostration. On the morning of the 13th of December the doctors could no longer disguise from the Grand Duke that their efforts to save that beloved itfe were in vain. As the danger increased, the Grand Duchess expressed herself as feeling better. She received her moth- er-in-law that afternoon in the most affectionate manner; also saw her lady-in-waiting; and when the Grand Duke entered her room her joy was most evident. She even read two letters— the last one being from her mother. After some hours of heavy sleep she woke perfectly conscious and took some nourishment. She then com- posed herself to rest, saying, " Now I will go to sleep again." And out of this sleep she woke no more. Shortly after 1 a.m., on the 14th of December, a change took place which left no doubt to those around that that precious life was fast ebbing away. When, a little later on. Princess Charles went into the Grand Duke's room, who was then asleep, she had left the Grand Duchess perfectly unconscious. It required no words of his mother's to break the news to him. At half past eight that morning Princess Alice died peacefully, murmuring to herself, like a child going to sleep, " From Friday to Saturday — four weeks — May — dear Papa — !'" It was exactly to the day four weeks since Princess May's death, and seventeen years since the death of the Prince Consort. On the following Tuesdajr evening, the 17th of December, after a solemn service held by the English chaplain, the remains of the beloved Princess were quietly removed from lier own palace to the chapel in the Grand Ducal Castle. The next clay, amidst the universal grief of high and low, the colHn was placed in the Mausoleum at the Ro- ALICE, GRAI