Qa, UNDER TEN FLAGS. AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. WRITTEN WITH ESPECIAL REFERENCE TO THE NEEDS OF YOUNG PEOPLE. By Z. T. SWEENEY. 'f 1, '/ a^ CINCINNATI, O. : STANDARD PUBLISHING CO. 1888, THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS WASHINGTON C3 1 ^^ , Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year i888, by Z. T. SWEENEY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C. THE LIBRARY or COMGRESS WASHINGTON ^0 • a • toluol ■ of • i^vatifuSe • for • f§c • Jn^pirafion s^e • §as • cMv ■ hun ■ io • xrn ■ ir] ■ all • goo? • Mnvs, 5 . bs^icafc ■ l§i5 • Book. INTRODUCTORY NOTE. Two years ago, a number of the personal friends of Isaac Errett, editor of the Christian Standard^ presented him with a purse, and requested him to take leave of the cares and duties of his office, and visit Palestine. They knew that it had been one of the most fondly cherished desires of his life to see the land made sacred forever by the life and death of our Lord. Years ago he wrote a book entitled " Walks about Jerusalem." The writing of this book intensified his desire to walk about Zion, and go round about her; to tell the towers thereof; to mark well her bulwarks, and to consider her palaces. His friends believed that a trip of this character, while gratifying a lifelong desire, would afford him much-needed rest and refresh- ment, both of body and mind. When he decided to go, and was casting about for a genial and intelligent traveling companion, it was suggested to him that perhaps Z. T. Sweeney, Pastor of the Church of Christ in Columbus, Ind., could be induced to go with him. He was pleased with the suggestion, and wrote to Mr. Sweeney, and extended a cordial invitation to accompany him and share with him the pleasures and benefits of the trip. Mr. Sweeney accepted the invitation. The result justified the wisdom of the selection. They traveled together for six months, visiting many of the most famous and sacred scenes on earth. The reader is respectfully referred to the following pages for an account of what they saw and heard and felt. It was the iy, ■■■■■■". INTRODUCTORY NOTE. V. intention of Mr. Errett to write an extended Introduction, but at the last moment he found himself unable to do so. Archibald McLean, Cor. Sec. Foreign Christian Miss. Society. Cincinnati, O., Nov. 15, 1888. PREFACE. This book is not intended to be a learned and critical work. It is a book of travel — a narrative of what the modern traveler in the East sees and hears. The author does not hold himself responsible for the truth of all the statements made. He sim- ply becomes responsible for the fact that tJie statements are made. He was compelled to exercise his own good judgment in. re- ceiving the stories and traditions of an ignorant and fanatical people, and leaves the same somewhat pleasant task to the reader. Many authors feel called upon to eliminate from their books all that can not stand the crucial test of historic criticism severely applied. While this doubtless enhances the value of their works to students and critics, it destroys the charms of travel and takes away a large portion of the attractions which draw the traveler to those countries. He has in the main, however, shown how he views what he saw, and no one who reads the book carefully can fail to see when he believes or dis- believes what he has seen and heard. Trusting the reader may have some of the pleasure in reading that he has had in writing it, the book is without further preface placed in his hands. The Author. INDEX TO CHAPTERS. NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL. Preparations — Bartholdi Statue — First Disaster — Our Captain — First Ser- vice — A Praying Lot — Change of Wind — Gambling — Etruria — Savan- nah — The Enghsh i IN AND AROUND LIVERPOOL. Signals at Sea — God's Signal Service — Minute Guns — Landing — Church in Liverpool — Railways in England 7 A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. Liverpool to London — Bugsworth — Rancher — Dove's Hole Tunnel — Mon- sal Dale — Chatsworth — Cromford — Arkwright — The Castle — Derby — Leicester — Bedford— St. Albans— London 12 IN AND AROUND LONDON. West London Tabernacle — Christian Commonwealth — London Statistics — Parliament — Spurgeon — Westminster — St. Paul's 23 LONDON TO PARIS. New Haven — More Liver Trouble — Dieppe — Rouen — William the Con- queror — Joan of Arc — Paris — Hotels — History of the City 35 PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL. Place du Trone — Bastile — Place Vendome — Place de la Concord — Guillo- tine — Marat — Versailles — Notre Dame— Madeleine — Louvre— Napoleon's Tomb — Arch of Triumph 45 PARIS TO PISA. Macon — Modane — Mt. Cenis — Turin — Marengo — -Genoa and Genoese — Statue of Columbus — Pisa — Leaning Tower — Cathedral — Lamp — Baptistery — Campo Saiito — ^Maria della Spina 5^ Viii. INDEX TO CHAPTERS. FLORENCE THE GENTEEL. Its Name — Climate — History — Culture — Piazza — Vecchio— Savonarola — Log- gia — Pitti Palace — Bell Tower — Baptistery — Santa Croce — Immortal Dust — Boboli Gardens — Bribery 67 THE ETERNAL CITY. On to Rome — Etruscans — Tiber — Breech-loaders and Pointer Dogs — Carni- val — Pagan, Papal and Modern Cities — Capitoline Hill — -Tarpeian Rock — Forum — Cloaca — History of City — Via Sacra 80 ETERNAL CITY— CONTINUED. Palatine — Romulus and Remus — Haruspex — Basilica — Feast— Arch of Titus- Arch of Constantine — Flavian Amphitheater — Conflicts 97 APPIAN WAY. Roman Roads — Appius Claudius — Virginia — ^Tombs of the Scipios — Colom- ■ barium — Catacombs — Teachings of — Tomb of Cecilia Metella — Curiatii and Horatii — Cornelia's Jewels — Campagna Life iii PAPAL ROME. San Angelo — Bridge — St. Peter's — Architecture — Dimensions — Curiosities — Popes — St. Andrea — St. John of Lateran — San Pudentiana — Paul's Kinsfolk 128 ROME TO NAPLES For Naples — Ceprano — Capua — Hannibal— Naples — Museum— Pompeiian Curiosities — Statues— Sculpture 143 IN AND AROUND NAPLES. Vesuvius— Music — Up the Mountain — "The Beautiful" Tirees — Pompeii — Water Puteoli — Nero's Baths — Avernus — River Styx — Backing — Beneventum—Foggia—Brindisi— Mediterranean Voyage 156 ALEXANDRIA. Alexander the Great— Ptolemy Philadelphus — Pharos— Sostratus' Strata- gem — Pompey's Pillar — Diocletian — Fall of the Serapeum — Obelisks — Library — Alexandria and New Testament — Hypatia and Cleopatra — Cleopatra and the Cjesars — Journey to Cairo — Water Wheels — Boy and Sweep-pole 1 74 INDEX TO CHAPTERS. ix CAIRO AND MOHAMMEDANISM. Pyramids — Cairo — Ezbekiyeh — Sultan's Palace — Citadel Mosque — Mame- lukes — Tombs of Sultans — Tombs of Caliphs— Thos. Cook — Al Azhur — Mosque of Amre — Mohammedanism 187 OUT OF EGYPT. Pyramids— Nile Bridge — El Postal — Bedouins — Abdul — Summit — King's Chamber — Memphis — Race — Apis Tombs — Mastaba of Ti — Step Pyra- mids — Boulac Museum — Shoubra Road — Sweethearts — Goshen — Canal 203 PORT SAID TO JERUSALEM. Port Said — Arabs — "No Copper " — Joppa — Hotel — Service— House of Simon — English Service — Orange Groves — Horses— Plain of Sharon — Ram- leh — Lydda — Valley of Ajalon (Kirjath-Jearim) — Kolonieh — Air-Karim — Moab Mountains — First View of City — Valley and Pool of Gihon — Joppa Gate , 217 JERUSALEM. First View — Joppa Gate — Tower of David — Pool of Hezekiah — History of the City — Jebus — Shishak— Alexander — Population in Herod's time — Caliphs — Seljuk Turks— Pilgrims — H(jly Places — Greek Holy Fire — Via Dolorosa — Wailing Place — David's Tomb — Church of St. James. . . 232 BETHLEHEM TO SOLOMON'S POOLS. Valley of Rephaim — Rachel's Tomb — Weeping Relatives — Stones — Solo- mon's Pools — Water Supply — -Fountains — Solomon's Garden — Etam — Frank Mountain — Bethlehem — Church of Nativity — Field of Shep- herds — Watch — Boaz and Ruth 254 DEAD SEA AND JORDAN VALLEY. Bare Hills — Mar-Saba — Camp — Night-thoughts — Long Ride — Our Guard — Castle of Machaerus — Mt. Nebo — Pisgah — Dead Sea — Jordan — Gilgal — Valley of Achor — Ancient Jericho — View from Summit — Fountain of Elisha— Nubk 268 JERICHO TO JERUSALEM. Quarantania — Ravens of Cherith — Man that " went down to Jericho" — Sa- maritan's Inn — Deep Gorge — Russia — Enshemesh — Bethany — Mt. of Olives — Gethsemane — Kedron — Valley of Hinnom — Lepers — Tower of David — Communion on Mt. Zion 282 X. INDEX TO CHAPTERS. IN JERUSALEM. Characteristics of the City — Harem-es-Sheriff — Mosque of Omar — Mosque EI Aksa — Dome of the Chain — Solomon's Seat — Sacred Associations — Siege of City — Capture by Titus — Mt. Zion — Communion — Customs — Costumes — Classes 297 JERUSALEM TO SHECHEM. Departure — Last View — Reflections — Nob — Gibeah — Ramah — Beeroth — Bethel — Ephraim — Robbers' Fountain — Sinjil — Camp — Shiloh — Le- boush — Plain of Mukhna — Jacob's Well — Joseph's Tomb — Gerizim — Ebal — Samaritan Worship — Pentateuch 310 NABLOUS TO NAZARETH. Valley — Watermills — Samaria — Church of St. John Baptist — Samaritans — Herod's Colonnade — History of Siege — Dothan, Jenin — Plain of Es- draelon — Mountains of Gilboa — Jezreel — Gideon's Fountain — Saul's last Battle — Shunem — Nain — Endor — Caves — Mistake — People — Nazareth — Shepherd and Flock — Lord's Day Morning — Service — Carpenter Shop of Joseph — Mills — Bake Ovens — Fountain — Church of Nativity — Humbugs — Greek Church — View from Hill-summit — Girls' Orphan- ' age — Boys' School — Reflections 328 NAZARETH TO SEA OF GALILEE. Departure — Gath-Hepper — Cana — Water Jar — Pilgrims' Horn — Hattin — Fall of the Cross — Tiberias — Fishing — Boating — Magdala — Capernaum — Bethsaida — Kahn Minyeh — Moonlight Songs and Reflections ^^S SEA OF GALILEE TO DAMASCUS. Khan Yubb Yusef — Sheep — Harem — Lake Huleh — Dan — Csesarea Philippi — Mt. Hermon — Kefr Hauwar — Site of Saul's Conversion — Interesting Time — "Fun" — Damascus — Grand Mosque — "Kill or Cure" Foun- tain 552 DAMASCUS TO BEYROUT. House of Rimmon — Street Called Straight — Houses of Judas and Ana- nias — Erudition — Christian Quarter — Massacre — Abd-El-Kader — Khans and Bazaars — Good-bye Damascus — Fountain of Fijeh — Fishing — Abi- lene — Zebdany — Yakfufeh — Baalbec — Kerak-Nuh- — Beyrout — Conder's Conclusions ^gn INDEX TO CHAPTERS. XI. BEYROUT TO EPHESUS. Cyprus — Laruaca — Church of St. Lazarus — Rhodes — "Those Isles of Greece " — Smyrna — Ephesus — Ancient Church — Temple of Diana — Stadium — Seven Sleepers — Theater — Agora — Magnesian Gate — New Testament Associations — Church in Smyrna — Farewell to Turkish Brethren 382 SMYRNA TO CONSTANTINOPLE. Leaving Smyrna — Alexandria Troas — Troy — Dardanelles — Argonatus — Constantinople — Seraglio — St Sophia — Suleiman's Mosque — Hippo- drome — Burnt Column — Cistern of Constantine — Janissaries— Khans — Dogs — Bosphorus — Castles of Asia and Europe — Capture of Constanti- nople 394 ATHENS AND GREECE. Piraeus — Athens — Remains — Acropolis Theater — Odeum — Propylsea — Par- thenon — Great Men — Pnyx — Bema — Mars' Hill — Market-place — Prison of Socrates — Cave of the Furies — Temple of Jupiter — Eleusis Mys- teries — Megara—Kalamaki— Corinth— Acro-Corin thus — Pirene Spring — Mycense — Dr. Schliemann — Impressions 410 VENICE. Steeples — Gondolas — Grand Canal — Rialto — History — St. Mark's — Bronze Horses — Campanile — Doge's Palace — Arsenal — Palazzo Pesaro — Ca d'Oro — Palazzo Manin 437 VENICE TO BASLE. Dissolution — Verona— History — Amphitheater — Cathedral — Juliet's Tomb — Milan — Cathedral — Santa Maria — Last Supper — Arch of Peace — Como — St. Gothard Railway and Tunnel — Airolo— Lucerne — Lion of Lucerne — Organ Recital 454 BASLE TO COLOGNE. Basle — Rhine— Great Men— Church— Library — St. Jacob — Freiburg — Heidel- berg — Worms — Luther — Platz — -Mayence — Rhine Steamers — Bingen — Bishop Hatto — Coblentz — Andernach— Bonn — Cologne 466 COLOGNE TO LIVERPOOL. Cologne — Cathedral — St. Ursula — St Gereon's Church — Aix-la-Chapelle — Brussels — Place des Martyrs — Hotel de Ville — History — ■ Antwerp — Cathedral — Artists— St. Jacques — Milk-carts— Plantin- Moretus Printing- office — Paris — London — Edinboro— Glasgow — Abbotsford— Good-bye. . . 485 ILLUSTRATIONS. Page Distress Signals - 8 Timber and Stone Viaducts. 12 Dove's Hole Tunnel - 13 Monsal Dale 13 Chatsworth.. 14 Willersly Cutting, __ 15 Derby Station __- 16 Bridge over the Trent . 17 Leicester (Lester) 18 Tridngular Lodge _. 19 Widow Wallis' House 19 Bedford 21 Houses of Parliament, London _. 25 Chapel and Mausoleum of Henry VIL, Westminster 30 St. Paul's Cathedral. — Built by Christo- pher Wren. _ 33 Feudal Castle at Rouen 36 Statue of Joan of Arc — Paris 38 Julian 40 Crowning of Charlemagne 41 Storming of the Bastile _- 46 The Guillotine - 47 Jean Paul Marat 48 The Palace of Versailles 49 The Cathedral of Notre Dame. — Paris .. 51 Death of Savonarola. — After a painting in the cell of Savonarola.. 69 Dante Allighieri.. 75 Michael Angelo Buonarotti 78 Roman Forum, Restored 84 Rape of the Sabine Woman. 85 Titus Flavins Vespasianus. — Rome 88 Caracalla . 90 Mark Antony delivering the funeral ora- tion over the dead body of Caesar.. 91 School of Vestal Virgins .*. 95 Capitoline Wolf q8 Haruspex Officiating , 99 Nero. — Rome, Vatican 102 Tnchnium 103 Arch of Titus. — Rome 104 Titus. -Rome, Vatican. t •;- 106 Page Arch of Constantine 107 The Coliseum. — Rome 108 The Dead Virginia. — Drawn by H. Vogel. 112 Outside entrance to Catacombs 114 Descent fo Catacombs 116 Martyr Graves 117 Roman mother teaching her child to kiss mark of Christ on his father's tomb 1 19 The Appian Way — Tomb of Csecilia Metella 122 The Oath of the Horatii _. 123 Cornelia and her Sons 124 Scene in the Roman Campagna 125 Campagna Cow-boy 126 The Castle of S. Angelo — Mausoleum of Hadrian _ 129 Hadrian 131 Pope Leo XHI 133 Pius VI 134 St Peter's Church in Rome 135 A Madonna by Raphael 139 The Stratagem of Hannibal at Casilinum. 144 Quintus Fabius declaring war to the Carthaginian Senate 145 Darius. — Enlarged from the fresco at Pompeii 147 Battle of Issus, Mosaic at Pompeii 149 Statue of the Emperor Tr Jan. — Naples.. 151 Socrates. — Naples 152 The Statue of Julius Caesar 153 Sacrifice of Mithras 155 Crater of Vesuvius 157 To the Top of Mt. Vesuvius 159 Street of Cornelius Rufus, Pompeii 161 A Modern Circe 167 Arch of Trajan 170 The Pharos of Alexandria. — Restoration 175 Pompey's Pillar 177 Caesar at the Grave of Alexander, at Alexandria. — Alter the painting by H. Showmer 179 Aritpriiiis ^nd tjlcopatra as Osiris and Isis 183 XIV. ILLUSTRATIONS. Map of Egypt i86 Pyramid at Ghizeh 187 Snake Charmer 189 Preaching the Koran 19S Ttie Kaaba in Mecca - -- 198 The Prophet Mohammed -. 199 Sarcophagus of Menkera, found in the tomb of that King at Ghizeh 205 The Bull Apis 207 Cambyses Kills the Apis.— Drawn by H. Vogel - 208 Mummy of Rameses II. — Front view 210 Mummy of Rameses II. — Side view 212 Horus 213 "Sweetheart" -- — 214 Joppa -- - 218 Napoleon in the Pest-house of Jaffa 223 Tower of the Forty.. _ - 227 Ploughing -- 229 Gideon -- 230 A View of Jerusalem _ — 233 Pool of Hezekiah 236 Entrance of Omar the Great into Jerusa- lem -- 239 Front of Church of the Holy Sepulcher. 243 The Holy Sepulcher 246 Walling-place of the Jews 251 Bethlehem.. -. 255 Rachel's Tomb - 256 Solomon's Pools — 257 Supply-fountain of Solomon's Pools. 258 The Silver Star over the Birthplace of Christ -- 263 Bedawin - 268 Bedawin Eating -. 269 Machaerus -- 274 Southern End of the Dead Sea, from En- gedi - 27s Nubk Tree ._ - 279 Bethany _ — 283 Entry into Jerusalem 285 Gethsemane and the Garden of Olives... 287 Absalom's Pillar _-_ 290 Tombs of James and Zacharias 291 Pool of Siloam and Garden Below 292 The Valley of Gihon 294 Peasantry _ 298 Mosque of Omar 299 Mosque El Aksa 302 Cisterns of the Sea 303 Substructions at the Southeast Corner of the Haram 304 Roman Soldiers Firing the Temple at Jerusalem _ 305 Gibeah 311 The Tabernacle , 316 How they Do It out West 319 Sacred Rock of Samaria 323 Samaritans at Worship on Mt. Gerizim .. 324 Herod's Colonnade at Samaria 330 Shepherd 337 Well at Nazareth .- 339 Carpenter Shop in Nazareth 340 Millstones ■ 341 Village Bake-oven __ _ 342 Galilee Boats _ 347 Site of Capernaum 348 Ruins of a Synagogue, Capernaum 350 Traveling Harem. 353 Harem Guard 357 Southern Gate of Cassarea Philippi 359 In the Arena at Caesarea Philippi.. 361 Tomb of the Head of John the Bap- tist 367 The " Street called Strai.ght " __ 369 The Compromise 371 Khan at Damascus 373 Stone in the Quarry at Baalbec 378 Homer - _. 383 A Stork on a Ruin 385 Diana ._ . 386 Croesus Showing Solon his Treasures 387 Diana of the Ephesians _ 388 Heroes of t'ne Trojan War 395 The Argonauts 397 Prayer-crier _ 401 The Arabs Crossing the Bosphorus _ 405 Entry of Mohammed II. into Constanti- nople 4oq Harbor at Piraeus __ 411 The Acropolis at Athens, Restored 413 Minerva.. 415 Aristotle and his Pupd.. __ 417 Diogenes 419 Demosthenes _ 420 Last Hours of Socrates. — After the Paint- mg by David 421 INIars' Hill _ 423 Jupiter Olympius 424 Eleusinian Feast 425 Remains of Ruined Temple at Corinth 427 The Rape of Proserpine 429 Lions' Gate, Mycenae 431 View of the Acropolis at Corinth '. 433 Hera — 434 Venice _ 436 Ponte Rialto 438 St. Mark's Cathedral, Venice 441 Colleoni Statue, Venice. _ 443 Doge's Palace, from the Water 445 Palazzo Pesaro, Venice 447 Palazzo Ca d'Oro 449 Palace Manin, Venice 451 Palace of the Doge 452 The Cathedral at Milan 457 " The Last Supper " 461 Erasmus 466 Preachers of the Reformation 468 ILLUSTRATIONS. XV. John Wickliffe. — From the Luther Statue in Worms 471 Statue of Huss. — Luther Statue, Worms. 473 Martin Luther _ 474 Jean Calvin _ 476 Germania Mon-ument 478 Chamber of Horrors 480 Andernach 482 The Interior of the Church 482 Cologne Cathedral 487 The Bodies of Egmont and Horn Lying in State and Being Viewed 491 William the Silent 493 Duke of Alva 494 Quentin Matsys' Well, Antwerp 495 The Steen in Antwerp _ 499 The Tower of London 501 Windsor Castle 502 Edinburgh, Scotland 503 Holyrood Palace _.. 505 Castle of Edinburgh _ 506 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL. At three p. m., Saturday, Jan. 23, 1887, we had finished all our preparations for a mid-winter Atlantic voyage, and were standing in the music-room of our ship — the Unibria, one of the finest, largest and most powerful of the North Atlantic squadron — bidding good-bye to the many friends who had assembled to see us off To some of them, alas ! it was, on earth, an eternal farewell. Our passenger list was unusually large for the winter, as the list of the Adriatic, of the White Star Line — which was to have sailed the Thursday previous — was transferred, for some reason, to our steamer. There were on the ship at this time at least three thousand persons, and it seemed to me that everybody was going abroad ; but when the last alarm had sounded, the hurried farewells were given, and when our vessel had rounded out past the end of the dock more than four-fifths had been left behind. We sailed, or rather were ignominiously pulled down the harbor by a tug-boat, in the midst of a heavy fog till we passed a shadowy object looming up on our right had, which we were informed was the Bartholdi Statue of Liberty Enlightening the World. Poor Liberty ! She is often enveloped in fogs and mists, while attempting to hold her blazing torch athwart the pathway of her enslaved and enslaving children. We had scarcely passed the statue before we met with our first ' ' disaster at sea." Our ship went to the bottom, for the good and sufficient reason that she was drawing twenty-six feet of water, while the harbor at that place was only twenty feet deep. The accident 2 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. occurred because of the displacement of the buoys ; they had been anchored down by heavy weights, and the ice-cakes which had formed around them had floated them from their places, and we were thus led out of the channel. We were detained till daylight next morning, and were not out of sight of land till the morning was well advanced. At eleven o'clock the Eng- lish Church service was read by Captain McMicken. I was not particularly impressed by Capt. M. as a Chris- tian man or minister. He was a large, round, ruddy faced old tar, who had just celebrated his four hundredth voyage across the Atlantic a few evenings previous by a grand champagne supper, at which many of the N. Y. millionaires and magnates were present. It seemed to me that he would be more at home at a champagne supper than at a church service, but is certainly the man to impress you with the fact that he is able to run a ship. He is said to be one of the best captains in the Cunard Line service. The sailors have the impression that when Neptune begins to play his pranks, all that is necessary to quiet him, is to see the glowing face of Capt. M. shining over the side of the vessel, and to hear his rough voice of command, "Neptune, you ras- cal, keep still there, sir! " The sailors were all out in uniform at the service, and led in the songs and responses like good churchmen. I was never a great admirer of the Episcopal service at home, but on that Sunday morning, when we were leaving all behind us and starting on a landless voyage of thousands of miles, it seemed to me perfectly adapted to the occasion, and when we came to the petition for those at sea I think every one joined in heartily ; in fact, everybody seemed in a praying humor that morning. There were many persons on board that drank and gambled all day long, but when they lay down in the night and heard the awful roar of the great waves and the gurgling of the water around their port windows, I am certain they called upon God ; in Avhich they were evi- dently somewhat like the small boy who, when asked by the Dominie if he was a praying boy, replied, "Yes, sir ; I pray every night." "But do you not pray in the day?" "No, sir ; any smart boy can take care of Jmnself in the daytime. NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL. 3 The first two days out were delightful, and we all felt encour- aged. The tables were full and the stewards and waiters were in despair. Monday night the wind changed and blew from the south-east. At sea, the change of the wind means a great deal more than it does on the land. The next morning the ship was rolling fearfully, and but few ladies and not half the gentlemen were at breakfast ; from that time it was one continuous roll till we reached Queens- town. It was at times dangerous to be on deck, and the vessel seemed to behave like a huge rocking-horse under the whip and spur of some giant. Bro. Errett seemed to stand it all with perfect composure ; in fact, his spirits seemed to rise with the storm. I was not at all seasick, but I had a slight attack of ^^ stomach trouble" one very bad day. The Cunard Line is one of the best crossing the North At- lantic, but there was one feature against which I feel bound to utter a protest. The "smoking room " contains a bar, which is kept bus)^ from early morn till late at night. After tea that room is turned into a gambling hell, where dissipation of all kinds is freely encouraged. One young man going over with us was induced to drink and bet freely, and then borrowed and bet again, till, when he neared land, he found himself with- out a penny and badly in debt. Stung by his friendless and desolate condition, he attempted to jump overboard, and was only accidentally prevented. On another occasion a lady was badly frightened by cries of murder near her stateroom door, resulting from these drunken orgies. I blush to say that the master spirit in all this was a gentleman whose name on the list was preceded by the title, " Hon." I was informed that he had been in the civil service of my own country, and had considerable reputation at home. Now, if the smoking-room of the steamers of this line is to be turned into such a place, I suggest they put up the proper sign over the door and call it gambling hell at once. I also think it right that parents sending sons across the ocean should be informed as to the influences to which they expose them by this line. Notwithstanding, they certainly possess the largest and best steamers in the North Atlantic service ; thirteen of us wrote 4 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. out a protest against this sort of treatment and gave it to the Liverpool papers. It was copied largely by the London dailies, as also the American papers. On our return, I was gratified to notice placards in the smoking-room prohibiting gambling or indecent language, and asking the co-operation of the passengers in preventing it. The Umbria and Etruria are the largest and finest vessels of the line, and are probably the best steam vessels afloat. As many of my readers will probably never take an ocean voy- age, a few facts in connection with one may be interesting. I condense what follows from some of the published statements of the Cunard Line : The Etruria was built in 1885. She has averaged a speed of 18 knots an hour in nine consecutive voyages between Queenstown and New York, which is equal to nearly 21 statute miles per hour, or somewhat greater than the average speed of the ordinary train service on any railway in the world. Our last day out on the return voyage she averaged 21 knots an hour. Her total consumption of coal is 300 tons per day, or 12 tons per hour, 465 pounds per minute; and if the whole of the fires were raked together and formed into one large fire there would be 42 tons of coal, or a mass 20 feet long, 20 feet broad, and rather more than 4 feet high. Besides the coal, 130 gallons of oil are used daily for journals, bearings, etc. Her crew is made up as follows : The captain, 6 officers, sur- geon, purser, 46 seamen, carpenter and joiner, boatswain and mate, 2 masters at arms, 12 engineers, 112 firemen and trim- mers, 72 stewards, 6 stewardesses, 24 cooks, bakers and assis- tants ; in all 287 hands. The amount of provisions, groceries, etc. , on board at the time of sailing are very large. For a single passage to the westward the Etruria, with 547 cabin passengers and a crew of 287 persons, had, when leaving Liv- erpool on 28th August last, the following quantities of provis- ions: 12,550 lbs. fresh beef, 760 lbs. corned beef, 5,230 lbs. mutton, 850 lbs. lamb, 350 lbs. veal, 350 lbs pork, 2,000 lbs. fresh fish, 600 fowls, 300 chickens, 100 ducks, 50 geese, 80 turkeys, 200 brace grouse, 15 tons potatoes, 30 hampers vege- tables, 220 quarts ice cream, 1,000 quarts milk, and 11,500 NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL. § eggs. In groceries alone there were over 200 different articles, including (for the round voyage of 22 days) 650 lbs. tea, 1,200 lbs. coffee, 1,600 lbs. white sugar, 2,800 lbs. mixed sugar, 750 pulverized sugar, 1,500 lbs. cheese, 2,000 lbs butter, 3,500 lbs. ham, 1,000 lbs. bacon. The foregoing seem enormous quantities, but very little was left upon the ship's arrival in port. Lemons are used at the rate of i yi per head per day ; oranges 3 per head per day; and apples when in season, at the rate of 2^ per head per day. The quantities of wines, spirits, beer, etc., put on board for consumption on the round voyage, comprise, 1,100 bottles champagne, 850 bottles claret, 6,000 bottles ale, 2,500 bottles porter, 4, 500 bottles mineral water, 650 bottles various spirits. Crockery is broken very exten- sively, being at the rate of 900 plates, 280 cups, 438 saucers, 1,213 tumblers, 200 wine glasses, 27 decanters, and 63 water bottles in a single voyage. As regards the consumption on board the fleet for one year we can almost say that their sheep and oxen "feed on a thousand hills," for they consume no less than 4,656 sheep, 1,800 lambs, and 2,474 oxen — an array of flocks and herds surpassing in extent the possessions of many a pastoral patriarch of ancient times. This is equivalent to 2,091,754 lbs. of meat, or 4 lbs. per minute. They consume 831,603 eggs, or more than i^ per minute; and they drink 21,000 lbs. of tea in the year, and 71,770 lbs. of coffee, sweetened by 296, 100 lbs. of sugar ; while the following articles also figure largely : i ^ tons of mu.stard, i^ of pepper, 7,216 bottles of pickles, 8,000 tins sardines, 30 tons salt cod and ling, 4,192 four-lb. jars jams, 15 tons mar- malade, 22 tons raisins, currants and figs, 13 tons split peas, 15 tons pearl barley, 17 tons rice, 34 tons oatmeal, 460 tons flour, 23 tons biscuit, 33 tons salt, 48,902 loaves of bread, 8 lb. each, 53 tons hams, 20 tons bacon, 15 tons cheese, 930 tons potatoes, 24,075 fowls, 4,230 ducks, 2,200 turkeys, 2,200 geese, 31,342 tablets Pears' soap, 3,484 lbs. Windsor soap, 10 tons yellow soap. Their passengers annually drink and smoke to the following extent: 8,030 bottles and 17,613 half bottles champagne, 13,941 bottles and 7,310 half bottles claret, e AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. 9,200 bottles other wines, 489,344 bottles ale and porter, 174,921 bottles mineral waters, 34,400 bottles spirits, 34,360 lbs. tobacco, 63,340 cigars, 56,885 cigarettes. The heaviest item in their annual consumption is coal, of which they burn 356,764 tons, or almost 1,000 tons for every day in the year. This quantity of coal, if built as a wall four feet high and one foot thick, would reach from the Southern point of England to the Northern point of Scotland. Their con- sumption of engine oil is 104,043 gallons; of burning oils, 23,020 gallons ; of paint oil, 9, 290 gallons ; of waste, 90 tons ; of white lead, 51 tons; of red lead, 12 tons. With respect to the aggregate employment of labor by the Cunard Company, it requires 34 captains, 146 officers, 628 engineers, boiler- makers and carpenters, 665 seamen, 916 firemen, 900 stewards, 62 stewardesses, 42 women to keep the upholstery and linen in order, with i, 100 of a shore gang; or about 4,500 people to run their ships, which traverse yearly a distance equal to five times that between the earth and the moon. Read the above and then go back seventy years and see Capt. Moses Rogers start out from Savannah, Ga., on the Savannah, the first steam vessel to cross the ocean. She carried only 380 tons burden (the Etruria is 8,000 tons), and crossed the Atlantic in 25 days. She was a great astonishment to the English people, and long before she cast anchor her decks were crowded with people. The English are now claim- ing the British packet, Rob Roy, was the first to cross. Just like the English, for all the world ; they will resist the introduc- tion of an American invention until compelled to accept it, then complacently refer to it as an English affair, while the whole world, aside from the English, knows better. IN AND AROUND LIVERPOOL. I was very much impressed by the various signals at sea. Having spent nearly all my life on land, I was not aware how much depended upon them. They are about as necessary to ships as speech to individuals ; in fact, it is the language of ships. It is a curious fact, that God himself seems to have been the author of the firbt signal service. He said unto Moses, " Make thee two trumpets of silver for the calling of the assembly, and if they blow but with one trumpet then shall the princes of thousands (colonels) gather themselves unto thee ; when ye blow an alarm the camps that lie on the east parts shall go forwards ; when ye blow an alarm the sec- ond time, the camps that lie on the south side shall take their journey." They also had a large iron framework surmounting a pole very similar to that which is used by our river steamers for night service. For two thousand years but little improve- ment was made upon the above ; but in later years more than thirty governments, embracing all the maratime powers, have entered into an elaborate system for ships by day and by night. Distress signals are, however, susceptible of great improve- ment. One of the distress signals which has always- been and is now used, is the well known " minute-gun at sea. " It is a most effective way of calling for assistance ; but it is sometimes unfortunately the case that the gun provided for the purpose is made a receptacle for all sorts of odds and ends, even, as has been recently stated, for the swabs used in washing the deck ; the powder has perhaps made as many voyages as the ship, and is damp and useless ; and so, when the gun is wanted, it can- not be fired. This reminds me very much of some men's relig- ion, which they take on early in life, and which is of about as much service in the hour of distress. Besides the minute-gun, the new act prescribes, as signals of distress, rockets or shells 7 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. of any color or description, fired one at a time at short inter- vals ; and also flames on the ship such as would be produced DISTRESS SIGNALS. by a burning tar-barrel. The signals calling for pilots prescrib- ed for the sake of distinction, in order that they may not be mistaken for danger signals, are a blue light every fifteen min- utes, and a bright white light flashed at frequent intervals for about a minute at a time. It is also provided, that If distress signals are used improperly, the person responsible is liable to IN AND AROUND LIVERPOOL. 9 pay compensation for any labor, risk or loss caused to any one who responds to the supposed call for assistance. It will thus be seen that, so far as public authorities are concerned, the im- proved system of signals at sea puts navigation on a safe foot- ing. As soon as a ship sights the first Irish light-station it sends up a signal representing its name, and this is at once tele- graphed to Liverpool and London. The safe passage of a ship is thus known 24 hours in advance of landing at Liverpool. On arriving at Liverpool we met with a cordial English welcome from a number of brethren and sisters who had gath- ered to receive us. It had been arranged that Bro. Errett should speak at Birkenhead Sunday a. m., and I at Liverpool, but as we did not arrive till three p. m., and did not get through the Custom House till five p. m., we were barely in time for the evening service, which begins in all English churches at 6:30 p. m. the year round. Bro. Errett spoke in Birkenhead at night, and I essayed to speak at the church in Liverpool, but was greatly bothered by the — to me — unnatural steadiness of the house. If the chapel could have been put on rockers and kept moving by some powerful hand, I am sure I could have preached a much better sermon, even if it had not received such close attention. The church in Liverpool is in fine working order, under the wise and able management of Bro. A. Martin. It was a de- lightful taste of the first fruits of the F. C. M. S., and kindled new enthusiasm in my heart for our missionary enterprises. Liverpool was, a few centuries ago, a little fishing village of the most wretched character, situated in a marshy locality abounding in numberless ponds, or pools. It takes its name from one of them, which was called the " liver pool, " owing to the great quantities of the "liver " birds that frequented it. At the time of the Revolutionary war its population did not exceed 40,000 persons ; it has since grown very rapidly, till it is now the second city in size in the United Kingdom, and the largest seaport of the world. It has about 200 acres of docks, nearly 20 miles of quays. About one- third of its trade is with the United States There lO AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. being nothing of special interest in Liverpool^ at 9 a. m, next day we started by the Midland R. R. for London. This road carries only first and third class passengers. They both travel in the same car, and consequently ride upon the same springs and by the same train. The first class is upholstered in dark green, and the third is dark gray cloth. This was all the difference, so far as I could see. The greatest difference is in price of tickets, one being seven dollars and the other four. The first class is for the aristocracy of England, who do not wish to mingle with the "vulgah crowd." Occasionally there is an American with so little sense as to do it because it is "so Eng- lish, you know." That these are not all dead was proved by one of our passengers on the Umbria. She was a beautiful young lady, daughter of one of our prominent business men of America, whose name is familiar in nearly every town in the United States where there is a tekgraph office, who was crossing over to be married to the fifth son of one of Ireland's "Lord No-bodies." Her father had agreed to pay the debts of the young man, which, according to his own confession, were fifty thousand pounds. Of course we objected very seriously, as every American does, to the abridgment of our liberties in locking us in the cars, which are entered from the side, instead of the end as in this countr)-. We also greatly missed the water tank and closet that are the necessary accompaniments of all American cars. We found some compensation, however, in the unmitigated freedom from the eternal clatter, "Peck's Sun," "Texas Siftings," "Puck," "Judge," etc. Whatever defects the English railways may have, the news-boy nuisance is not one of them. Then, too, in large stations like St. Pancras, in London, where trains are arriving and departing every five or ten minutes, cars having a number of doors in the side are so much more easily filled and emptied than ours. On the whole, I think the English cars better adapted to the needs of the English public than the American would be. The ride from London to Liverpool is one of the finest in the world, especially if the traveler should be so fortunate as IN AND AROUND LIVERPOOL. II to get his ticket via the Midland, which certainly possesses more historic associations than any other direct route. The only comparison I can think of would be a day's journey through some of our large artificial parks in America, such as Fairmount, of Philadelphia, or Druid Hill Park, of Baltimore. The day was exceptionally fine, the sun shining nearly all the time, and we had an unusually good opportunity to see the country. We had not travelled very far until we found the road-bed vastly superior to any American roads. There are none of those sudden curves and slanting tracks, that make you feel as though the cars were going to tip over; this fact gave rise to a pleasant retort made by an American lady to an English gentleman who was lauding the superiority of English road-beds. " We English people, " he remarked, " build roads for eternity, while you Americans only build for the present," "True enough, sir," she replied, "but as we Americans ex- pect to travel with wings in eternity, we shall have no use for railroads." Witty enough ; but it does not improve our road- beds. A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. .The line from Liverpool to London runs nearly east for about forty miles, and crosses what was formerly an impassable bog called Chat Moss ; it was a vegetable pulp, and in some places so soft as to be dangerous to travellers. Civilization is gradually redeeming it, and it is now largely replaced by rich pastures. After leaving Bugsworth Tunnel we passed over a 'Jfe'^, TIMBER AND STONE VIADUCTS. timber viaduct, and observed another of stone. In 1866 Eng- land had been drenched with rain, and every little stream was' swollen until it was a river. A land-slide occurred here, carry- ing away sixteen acres, and with it trees, houses, and everything. An Enghsh farmer described the scene thus, "A goods train ran over the viaduct, if I recollect right, that morning ; but it was the last. That day and the day after this road was all of a move ; the walls were cracking dowm, the fences were going, the whole hillside seemed of a move, and when the A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. 13 paving stones of the cottage floor began to stand up on end, I told my missus it was time we were moving^ His description ^■^■A\A\xt'''<-f-' DOVE S HOLE TUNNEL. reminded me somewhat of the rancher out in the Rocky- Mountains who lived on the hillside with a neighbor's ranche MONSAL DALE. lying just above; one morning there came a land-slide, and seeing his neighbor's house, barn and farm come sliding down 14 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. the hill he " lit out." His neighbor's farm stopped just over his, and then came a suit for the possession ; the judge render- ed a verdict in favor of the defendant, because the plaintiff did not stay and hold possession of his ranche. A man who would stay under either of the foregoing cir- cumstances would have pretty good "staying qualities." Shortly after leaving the viaduct, our train rushed into Dove's Hole Tunnel. It is more than a mile and a half in length, and pierces the mountain range lying between us and the South of England. In digging this tunnel an under-ground river was discovered. In 1872 the whole end of the cutting fell in, entirely filling up the tunnel ; it was remedied by the stone archway shown in the engraving. After passing through the tunnel we entered what is known as Monsal Dale, which is a bright little valley, and was really one of the prettiest pictures of English rural life along the line. From the car window we could look out upon the fertile hill- sides sloping down in vernal beauty to the brook below, dotted here and there with pretty cottages, singly and in clusters, • through which the little stream ran its silvery course to the sea. CH ATSWORTH. It is called by the English "The Arcadia of the Peaks," and its beauties have furnished fruitful themes for all writers A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. 15 who have attempted to describe this magnificent Derbyshire scenery. A little farther on we arrived at Rowsley, which is the station for Chatsworth, one of the country residences of the Duke of Devonshire. It crowns a beautiful grassy knoll which overlooks the meadows that border the sides of the lovely Derwent river. We did not take the time to visit this ducal estate, but one who did says of it: "At Chatsworth may be found whatever taste and wealth, art and nature can do to create a palace meet for a king." The park which surrounds Chatsworth is nearly twelve miles in circumference. A short distance beyond we passed Oker Hill, a corruption of Occursus hill of conflict. Here the Romans built a fort, to hold in subjection the turbulent natives during the period of their occupation ; at the Southern end are two sycamore trees, planted by two brothers who parted here WILLERSLY CUTTING. forever. The readers of Wordsworth will remember the story. The next place of importance is Cromford, known as the *'Cradle of cotton manufacture." It was the home of Richard i6 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. Arkwright. He was the thirteenth chile of a poor laborer in the North of England. He was early in life a barber's apprentice, but living in the midst of a cotton spinning community, was drawn into inven- tions for improving that system of labor. He soon invented the celebrated spinning frame, which has not since been ma- terially improved upon. He became the richest commoner in England, and was knighted by George HI. Willersly Castle was founded by him, and is a large build- ing, very much like the old baronial castles of England. It is seen shortly after emerging from Willersly cutting, which in winter time, when covered with ice, looks like a silver frosted avenue. Shortly after passing Cromford one can obtain a view of Lea Hurst, the home of Florence Nightingale. It is a quaint old structure, covered with ivy and overlooking the Derwent valley. Now comes Derby Station, or, as it is pronounced by the English, "Darby." A curious story was told me by an Eng- lish gentleman, to account for the mispronunciation. On one. Y STATION. occasion the Queen happened to pronounce the name Avrongly, and none of the courtiers would dare to pronounce it dif- A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. 17 ferently after the Queen had spoken ; so it has been called Darby ever .since. Its original name was North-Worthington, but was changed by the Danes to Deorboy, and in process of time it became Derby. Derby day— one of the greatest in England — is when the Derby stakes are run for. They were established by Smith Stanley, the twelfth Earl of Derby, in 1780, and occur the second Wednesday of the spring races in May of each year. It is one of the centers of communication in England, but possesses little of interest to the traveller. A few miles beyond Derby we reached Borrow-ash ; it is a corruption of Barrow-ash, or "Ashes of the Barrow." Years ago were found here a number of human skeletons — nearly a hundred in all — some of them being of colossal size. They UKIDGE OVER THE TRENT. were all placed due East and West, and with them were found many amulets, charms, and relics in gold-lined boxes. In the skull of one was found an arrow-head. They are supposed to have been buried here previous to the Roman conquest, and 1 8 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. were very probably cotemporaneous with the Mound Builders of our own country. After leaving Borrow-ash we crossed the Trent over one of the most .massive and handsome railroad bridges I ever saw. It presents such a contrast to the frail death-traps of our own country that I give a picture of it. There are no Ashtabula disasters in England. About forty miles south of Derby we came to Leicester (Lester). This is one of the historic spots of England. LEICESTER (LESTER). Here was the seat of a Druid temple, with its human sacri- fices. It has been successively a stronghold of the Romans, Saxons, Danes, and Normans. From this place Richard the Third rode out to the battle of Bosworth Field, and to it his lifeless body was brought back, "trussed behind a pursuivant at arms, like a calf— his head and arms hanging upon one side of the horse, and his legs upon the other, all besprinkled with mire and blood." This battle ended the celebrated war of the Roses, and elevated Henry VII. to the throne. When our train was pulling out of Rushton Station we looked out of the car window upon the right, and saw the A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. 19 queerly constructed Triangular Lodge, built by Sir Thomas Tresham. Here was concocted the conspiracy of "The Gun- TRIANGULAR LODGE. powder Plot;" and certainly no better building could have been erected for such a purpose, its singular form and isolation completely excluding all eavesdroppers. Just as the train en- tered Kettering, an Eng- lishman directed my at- tention to a plain, old- fashioned dwelling with three dormer windows, which at once made my heart leap with enthu- siasm. On the 2nd day of October, 1792, a company of ministers met in the town of Kettering, to devise means for the spread of the gospel. Wm. Carey uttered, that day, his two since famous mottoes, " Expect great things from God," and "Attempt great things for God." His text was, "En- large the place of thy tent, and let them stretch forth the cur- tains of thine habitations ; spare not, lengthen thy cords, and strengthen thy stakes ; for thou shalt break forth on the right WIDOW WALLIS HOUSE. 20 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. hand and left ; and thy seed shall inherit the Gentiles, and make the desolate cities to be inhabited." • Retiring to the home of a widow — -Beebe Walhs — twelve ministers organized a foreign missionary society, and made a contribution of sixty-five dollars. This was a small beginning, but the next year saw Carey in India ; and thus started the grandest impulse the Church of Christ ever experienced, viz : The English- speaking universal evangelization of the world. In our after travels, we often witnessed the harvests of this first-fruits. In the land of the Pharaohs ; In the Holy Land, from Joppa to Tiberias ; and in Syria, from Beyrout to Damascus ; on the banks of the Leontes and Bosphorns ; under the shadow of the Acropolis, and by the grave of Polycarp, everywhere, we saw the neat cottage home of the missionary, teaching by model, purity and love, neatness and truth ; but none seemed fairer to rre than the white cottage of Widow Wallis, now oc- cupied as a "Baptist Mission House," where was waved be- fore the Lord the "first fruits " of a harvest of millions of dol- lars consecrated to the service of God. A short distance south of Kettering, and intimately con- nected by religious association, is Bedford. It has no charms except its pleasant locality and historic memories. It is known to the children of the world as the home of John Bunyan, the immortal tinker. The old jail on Bedford Bridge, where he was confined for twelve years, and where he wrote "The Pil- grim's Progress," is no more. The chapel in which he minis- tered for seventeen years is rebuilt. The new one, however, contains a chair, which Bunyan used. A statue of Bunyan stands on St. Peter's green, in the town, and the church has an elegant bronze door, with panels representing scenes in " Pil- grim's Progress" both, the gift of the Duke of Bedford. Lord Macaulay, in his essay on Southey's edition of "Pilgrim's Pro- gress, " says : ' ' We are not afraid to say, that though there were many clever men in England during the latter part of the seven- teenth century, there were only two creative minds. One of these produced the 'Paradise Lost,' and the other the 'Pil- grim's Progress.' " Bedford is probably surrounded by as many interesting A RIDE THROUGH MERRY ENGLAND. 21 places as any town in England. One mile from it is Elstow, the birthplace of Bunyan. Two miles away is Cardington, where is the house once occupied by John Howard, the philan- thropist. Turvey, seven miles away, is the scene of the labors of the author of "The Dairyman's Daughter." Cople, four miles distant, is where Butler wrote " Hudibras." Ampthill, which recalls the unhappy memories of Catherine of Arragon, is only eight miles distant. 22 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. St. Albans is the next place of importance we passed, and it claims the distinction of being more ancient than London. Under Roman rule it was called Verulam, but during a perse- cution of the Christians under Diocletian, Albanus was martyred here, and the city took his name. A church was founded to his memory on the spot where he died, but the magnificent Norman Cathedral now occupies the site. After leaving St. Albans, everything indicates the rapid approach to the metropolis, and soon " London " was shouted, as the train rolled into St. Pancras Station, and, rising Saul-like above the crowd, was the tall form of W. T. Moore, waiting to give us a hearty "Buckeye" welcome to the English metropolis. IN AND AROUND LONDON. We were driven to the home of Bro. W. T. Moore, and welcomed in true American style. Monday niglit we at- tended his training class for ladies, the working of which we greatly admired. It is a sort of normal where the Bible is sys- tematically studied with a view to fit them for Christian work, I think many of our American preachers may obtain a hint from this. On Wednesday we attended his regular church prayer- meeting ; there were present at least one hundred and fifty persons. Bro. Moore has four regular meetings each week for prayer and Scripture study, besides his Sunday services. On Lord's day morning the writer preached, and at night Bro. Errett. The night sermon was one of Bro. Errett's happiest, and presented the gospel as simply and as fully as I ever heard it. I also took occasion to present the cardinal points of our plea. I did this purposely, because I had heard some grum- bling in America about Bro. Moore's not preaching the old- fashioned gospel. I am sure this is untrue, for I never saw people receive the truth more heartily than they. If any of our preachers are laboring under the impression that Bro. Moore has a sinecure, a visit to London and this hard-worked man will dissipate all of it. His congregation raised last year for all purposes between ^3,500 and ^^4,000. It is now out of debt, and at perfect peace. In addition to his church work, he is editor-in-chief of the CJiristian CommonwealtJi, one of the ablest and most influential religious journals in Great Britain. It has taken strong hold upon the independent masses, from the member of Parliament to the laboring man, and is destined to wield a great influence, in its way, for Christian union upon Bible principles. We tried to see as much of London as pos- sible in one week, and now feel that we have hardly creased the great orb. When we realize that there are as many people 24 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. in London as can be found in the city and State of New York, with a half dozen smaller States thrown in, we can form some estimate of its size. There is no one spot in London from which one can obtain anything like a panorama of this won- derful place. Its streets, if strung out in line, would reach from New York to San Francisco. It contains more people than Switzerland, Denmark and Greece; more Scotchmen than Ed- inboro ; more Irishmen than Dubhn ; more Welsh than Cardiff; more Jews than Palestine ; more Roman Catholics than Rome ; and yet so many Englishmen that there is not an unusual number of any of the above elements. It records a birth every five and a death every seven minutes. It is more dangerous to walk the streets of London than to travel by railway or ocean steamer. Last year one hundred and thirty people were killed and twenty-six hundred wounded. It is the great maw of England, consuming daily one thousand oxen, four thousand sheep, and twenty thousand chickens, to say nothing of pork, veal and fish. It contains half as many servants as Chicago has popula- tion, and yet has only one servant for every twelve of its population. Previous to our arrival Bro. Moore had written to the speaker of the House of Commons and secured tickets of ad- mission to the Speaker's Gallery for us. The House of Parlia- ment is a very pretty and imposing building, especially approach- ing it from Westminster Bridge, but it does not begin to compare in beauty with our national building. It has more of the ap- pearance of an exposition building than a great State building. We approached by way of the Saint Stephen''s HalL Just before entering this, we saw on our left a rather insignificant looking chapel, which our guide informed us was Westminster Hall. It is one of the most historic buildings in London. Here the long line of kings were crowned, from the Conqueror to George IV. Here many famous nobles were tried and exe- cuted. At the base of the wooden arches of the ceiling are iron hooks. To one of these an officer pointed and informed us that Oliver Cromwell's head hung upon it for thirty years. Leaving this old chamber we enter St. Stephen's Hall. , This long hall leads to the central octagonal chamber, and is the 11 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, LONDON. Page 25. IN AND AROUND LONDON. 2*] finest room in the building. The floor is Venetian mosaic of the finest quahty. The niches are filled with statues of dead royalty, from the days of William the Conqueror. The House Of Peers, which answers to our Senate cham- ber, is a magnificent Gothic hall, ninety feet long and forty-five feet wide. The benches are upholstered in red leather, and contain over four hundred sittings. The stained glass of the windows contains portraits of English royalty since the time of the Norman conquest. The walls are adorned with statues of the barons who obtained the Magna Charta from King John. The Hall of Commons is a plain room, about forty feet wide and seventy feet long. The members of the administration party sit on the right and the opposition on the left of the speaker. The Irish members sit at the end farthest from the speaker. Poor Ireland ! she has been sitting at the farther end, ever since she has been under the control of England. Englishmen all have a drawl in their public speech, and seem to delight in it. It is amusing to hear the cockneys and ^ dudes upon the street attempt to imitate this hesitating man- ner of their orators. The only debate of the evening that took on the appearance of interest was upon the withdrawal of the British troops from Egypt. Even this could be easily eclipsed by a district con- vention oi our preachers discussing "Our Relations to the Sects," or some kindred topic. I soon had enough of it; and wandered out into the Central Hall to wait till Bro. Errett was gratified. I didn't have more than twenty minutes to wait. We also went to hear Spurgeon. , That great preacher is more familiar to Americans than any other living Englishman. He has been so frequently described that I will add but a word. I think the secret of his success lies in keeping doimi to the ^ level of his audience. His congregation is pre-eminently one of the common people. So far as I can judge, it will not com- pare favorably in intelligence with an average congregation of our Western States. The sermon itself was a very plain dis- cussion of "The Pharisee and the Publican." We have preachers by the hundred that could surpass the effort as an effort. 28 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. The fact, however, remains that for nearly thirty years he has drawn and held the largest audience in the . world. This should teach our smart preachers that there is more power in the simphcity which is in Christ, than in the subtilty of men. His recent attem.pt, however, to force a creed of human mak- ing upon the people of his denomination demonstrates that he is either getting puffed up by his marvelous success, and is dis- posed to become the Baptist pope, or that he has become childish and is no longer the man he was in his prime. We regret to say that the indications thus far point to the former as the solution of his course. Sunday at 3 p. m., I went to hear Archdeacon Farrar, at Westminster Abbey. The huge building was crowded to its utmost seating and standing capacity. While I was too far from the speaker to hear all he said, what I did hear gave me a a very favorable opinion of him. My opinion concerning the Church of England has undergone considerable change since I have seen it "at home." Hitherto I had judged it by its " poor relation " in America, which is certainly a misjudgment. The Dissenters, by their criticisms, have compelled it to return to a dignified position, while they have not followed their own criticism. The result is apparent in the strong hold which "the church " has taken upon the intelligent masses of this coun- try. In my judgment, unless there is great improvement in the Dissenting churches, disestablishment is in the far distant future. Criticism nearly always works well toward them who are exercised thereby, but rarely helps the critic. Westminster stands upon holy ground. Long before Christianity was introduced into England, our Druid ancestors cut the hemlocks and waved them in their mystic ceremonies upon this spot. After the introduction of Christianity, a church was erected to St. Peter by the Saxon king, Sebert, which was subsequently destroyed by the Danes. It was rebuilt by Edward the Confessor, since which time its improve- ments and additions have marked the advance of English re- ligious life. Its walls have echoed to the solemn christening ceremonies, the glad peal of the wedding march, and the sad IN AND AROUND LONDON. 2g wail of the funeral rites of England's royalty, nobility and worth. It stands, a solemn witness to their birth, baptism, bridal and burial occasions. " That antique pile behold, Where royal heads receive the sacred gold ; It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep ; There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep, Making the circle of their reign complete — These suns of empire, where they rise they set. " Think how many royal bones Sleep within these heaps of stones! Here they lie — had realms and lands. Who now want strength to lift their hands. Where, from their pulpit, sealed with dust, They preach, ' In greatness is no trust.' " As I stood within the walls of the massive building, and saw on every hand the statues and memorials of England's greatness, and listened to the grand, rich choir, whose words echoed and reverberated through the groined arches and mas- sive aisles and chapels, it seemed to me that I was in spirit with Curtis Guild when he wrote — "In whichever direction the footsteps may incline, one is brought before the last mementoes of the choicest dust of England. Here they lie — sovereigns, poets, warriors, divines, authors, heroes and philosophers; wise and pure-minded men, vulgar and sensual tyrants ; those who, in the fulness of years, have calmly passed away, ' rich in that hope that triumphs over pain,' and those whom the dagger of the assassin, the axe of the executioner, and the bullet of the battle-field cut down in their prime. Sovereign, priest, soldier and citizen slumber side by side, laid low by the great leveler, Death." The greatest width of the Abbey is something over two hundred feet, while the length is over four hundred. It contains nine chapels, with a whole forest of cloisters. One of the finest of the chapels is that of Henry VII. and his consort, Elizabeth — the last of the House of York to wear the crown of England. It is shown in the illustration, standing 30 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. CHAPEL AND MAUSOLEUM OF HENRY VII., WESTMINSTER. in the main body of the chapel in a casting of brass, profusely ornamented, and decorated with statues of St. Edward, St. Bartholomew, St. George and St. James, The royal pair, in effigy, are recumbent upon a tomb of black marble, at the head IN AND AROUND LONDON. 3 1 of which is a red dragon, the ensign of Cadwallader, the last of the Briton kings, from whom Henry descended. At the foot of the tomb is an angel. There is a profusion of inter- twined roses, representing the union of the houses of York and Lancaster. In this chapel also reposes the body of the weak, cruel, fanatical, vindictive and passionate James the First. He was the only son of Mary, Queen of Scots, by Lord Darnley, and was born in Edinburgh Castle, and is known in history as James VI. of Scotland. Under his reign the crowns of Scotland and England were united. It was a long and peaceful one, and was the age of Ben Jonson, Shakespeare, Raleigh and Bacon. It witnessed the colonization of Virginia, and the transla- tion of the English Bible, which is commonly known as the King James Translation. In this chapel, also, Oliver Cromwell, four of his family and six of his officers were originally buried, but they were removed after the Restoration. Edward VI. , under whose reign the Book of Common Prayer was composed, the Duke of Argyle and Elizabeth Claypole, sec- ond daughter of Oliver Cromwell, are also interred in this chapel. ' The oldest of the chapels is that of Edward the Confessor, the last of the Saxon kings, if we except Harold, and the most superstitious. It is occupied by monuments to several other monarchs, as well. In the center is the shrine of the Con fessor. On his right is a bronze effigy of Henry III., sur- mounting a pedestal of porphyry and mosaic. On the left is the Duke of Gloucester, murdered at Calais. In the rear are Queen Eleanor, who sucked the poison from her husband with her lips, and Philippa, wife of Edward III., and the queenly mother of fourteen children. In this chapel is the old corona- tion chair of the Scottish kings, under the seat of which is the renowned "stone of Scone," which the Scotch believe to be the original stone which Jacob used at Bethel for a pillar. The Scotch always have been a believing nation. When the power of Scotch royalty was completely broken, this stone was removed to London, and every English monarch since has occupied that chair when coronated. They have not all, like 32 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. Jacob, however, seen the ladder that led up to heavenly rest and peace, with its angel ministrants thereon.. The most in- teresting portion of the Abbey, to me, was the Poets' Corner. In walking through that corner and seeing the names of great- ness, there was quite a sprinkling of humor with their epitaphs. Here is Matthew Prior's, written by himself: " Nobles and heralds, by your leave, Here lies what once was Matthew Prior, The son of Adam and of Eve ; — Can Bourbon or Nassau claim higher?" This is also the irreverent inscription made by John Gay, the poet : " Life is a jest, and all things show it; I thought so once, but now I know it." Many others v/ere found quaint, humorous and grotesque, but none quite so grotesque as that reared by loving but eco- nomical parents down in the old Virginia State : " Here lies our little babe, It neither cries nor hollers ; ■ It lived just two and twenty days. And cost va forty dollars.'''' America is ahead yet ! One that impressed me as much as any other was a plain black marble slab bearing the following inscription : " Brought by faithful hands over land and sea. here rests David Living- stone, Missionary, Traveler, Philanthropist." There were also some Latin verses from Lucan, representing Julius Caesar's de- sire to solve the problem of the source of the Nile : "So great is my love of truth that there is nothing I would rather know than the causes of the river that have lain hid through so many ages." We can not linger longer at Westminster, but where shall we go ? To Buckingham, Hyde Park, Zoological Garden, Old London Bridge, Blackfriars, Tower, Smithfield, Bank of Eng- land, British Museum, Windsor Castle, Greenwich Hospital, Thames Embankment, or St. Paul's? So many places and so IN AND AROUND LONDON. 33 short a time, but as we have seen Westminster, we will now go to St. Paul's. What was formerly St. Paul's churchyard ST. Paul's cathedral. — Built by Christopher Wren. is now built up solidly with grand stores and shops. Not a sign of a churchyard, except a few marble statues which have taken the place of the old-time tombstones. There is a remark- ably fine statue of Queen Anne in front of the western entrance to the cathedral. Standing in front of this one warm day, I had removed my hat to let my head cool. I heard a cabman remark to his fellows : " Look hat that Hamerican takin' hoff 'is 'at to Queen Hanne." They evidently thought to have a little fun, and one of them stepped up and said: "Stranger, do you know you 'ave your 'at hoff to one of our Queens ?" Immediately putting on my hat, I replied : "I beg your par- don, sir, but I thought it must be Martha Washington." He retired amid the laughter of his associates. St. Paul's is next to Westminster in religious association, and larger in size — in fact, with the exception of St. Peter's, in Rome, it is the largest church in the world. It was built by 34 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. Sir Christopher Wren, and is the monument to his work of thirty-five years. He is buried in the crypt ,of the cathedral, and on the slab that marks the spot, the stranger is told, " If ye seek his monument, look around you." It, though a temple ot peace, is filled with statues of England's zvarriors. There are only a few exceptions to this, such as Elliott, first missionary bishop of India, and John Howard, the philanthropist. It made me feel queer to read the eulogies pronounced upon such ■ men as Cornwallis, Howe and Packenham. The most interesting thing in the crypt is the coffin of Wellington. Here also is his funeral car of solid iron, cast from the cannons of his victories. The bells of this cathedral never toll except for the death of royalty. The only exception to this rule was in the death of President Garfield. LONDON TO PARIS. Monday evening we bade adieu to our friends in London, and started for Paris. We took the route via New Haven and Dieppe, in preference to the more direct way through Dover and Calais, for two reasons, viz : First, because it was an all- night ride ; and second, because it was cheap — principally, how- ever, for the latter reason. There is very little of interest on the railway line between London and New Haven. On our right a few miles, was Brighton, one of the fashionable watering-places of England, and formerly the home of Frederick W. Robertson, one of the grandest preachers that the Church of England ever produced; and about as far to the left was the battle-field of Hastings, where the decisive battle between the Saxons, under Harold, and their Norman conquerors, under William, was fought. About eleven p. m. , we took the steamer Victoria for Dieppe, and about ten minutes later we wished most heartily we had n't. Oh, that channel ! I had read of it, heard of it, and thought of it. But the half has never been told ! This time it was not simply derangement of the stomach, but derangement all along the line ! I succumbed before we had made a mile out of port, and staid succumbed clear across. In fact, I am still succumbed, when I think of it. It makes my liver mad to hear it men- tioned ! I have a return ticket via same route, but I am going back some other way. I do n't know of any better way, but I do n't care for that ! I am going to try it, anyway. I feel about the channel a good deal like old Sister Spears, of Paris, Ky., about the Atlantic Ocean. When she and her husband had crossed once in safety, she suggested to her husband the propriety of "buying a horse and buggy and driving round," going back. But all things in this world have an end, and along with 3S 36 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. these a channel passage. Dieppe means tJie deep, and is so named for its deep roadstead. It was formerly the principal seaport of France, and is now the favorite watering-place. It is defended by a wall and a castle built upon a high cliff. It is the birthplace of Admiral Duquesne, who gave name to the Amer- ican fort at what is now Pittsburg. It is noted for its manufac- ture of watches, linen paper, and its ivory carving. It is said to be noted for its pretty Avomen ; but if those we saw were to be taken as specimens, it can hardly be beaten for ugly ones. We passed our first foreign custom house here, and did so with trembling ; but before our return, we could pa^:s a cus- FEUDAL CASTLE AT ROUEN. toms examination as easily and with as little concern as we could eat a breakfast. Speaking of breakfast reminds me that LONDON TO PARIS. 37 we took our first foreign breakfast at Dieppe. It consisted of " Pain et beurro, et cafe au lait, et pommes de terre " — which, by interpretation, is bread and butter and coffee and potatoes. The fare was simple, but very clean, and the waiters exceed- ingly polite. After breakfast we took train for Paris, and in less than an hour's running, up the beautiful and fertile valley of the Scie, which we crossed some twenty-two times, we reached the old-time Norman capital of Rouen. Rouen was the Rotomagus of the Romans. It is now a very flourishing manufacturing city of over one hundred thousand inhabitants, and is to France what Manchester is to England. It was the home of William the Conqueror, who, by the way, was the son of a tanner's daughter, and said to be so illiterate that he could not write his name. His autograph mark is still pre- served here, in the museum. And yet there is not an aristo- cratic family in all England that does not feel a thrill of superi- ority if its lineage can be traced back to his time, if not to Jiim — the illegitimate child of Robert the Magnificent. Rouen is als_o the place where Joan of Arc, the brave French girl that came forth in the hour of France's need, and by her earnestness not only won the heart of the king till his permission was given her to attempt to raise the siege of Or- leans, but, going directly to the despondent army, and cloth- ing herself in armor, so animated the soldiers that she made them feel that she was sent of God to lead them to victory. Equally depressing was her infiuence upon the English soldiers, who feared her presence in the siege as the Trojans feared the presence of Athene's apparition. Soon the siege of Orleans was abandoned, and in honor and triumph she led the French Charles VII. from Chinon to Rheims ; and in the grand cathedral he was crowned, with the greatest of enthusiasm. She felt now that her life-work was accomplished, and fain would have retired to private lif*?. But the army would not permit it. Much against her own will, she was still used in an expedition against Paris, then under the control of the Eng- lish. She was wounded by an arrow, and her presence no no longer inspiring the soldiery, the attack was a failure. About one year from the time she led the French victorious at 38 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. Orleans, she was captured by the English, and taken to Rouen ; was accused of being inspired by the devil and prac- ticing the black art. After a long trial she was condemned, and burnt at the stake. Not satisfied with burning, her enemies gathered up her ashes, and scattered them into the river. It is a strange fact that all her judges met violent and sudden deaths. She was burned in an open place, that has since been named for her — the place de la piicelle. A quarter of a century later she was declared innocent of the crimes she expiated with her life, and a cross was erected to mark the spot where she suffered. It is now decorated with an insignifi- cant figure over a fountain ; but a beautiful bronze equestrian statue stands to her memory in Paris. STATUE OF JOAN OF AKC. I'ARIS. Leaving Rouen the train hurries us onward about fifty miles, passing on the way several fine old feudal castles of the LONDON TO PARIS, 39 Norman period, each with its history of love and hate, jeal- ousy and faithfulness, freedom and shackles, when we arrived at Mantes, the place where William the Conqueror met his death. After the subjugation of England it was his desire to enlarge his Norman possessions, and, in order to do so at once, he sought a quarrel with King Philip of France for tha.': purpose. He marched upon Mantes, besieged, took, and burned it. While the city was enveloped in fire and smoke, William, leading the army, plunged into the ruins. His horse's feet being burned by the still hot ashes of the ruined city, the wounded creature reared and threw his rider, producing a rup- ture from which he shortly after died at Rouen. We arrived at Paris about one p. m., and after passing the customs ofificer at the station, took a cab — or, as we are in France, it is proper to say voiture — and told the driver, in as good French as we could command, to drive us to the Hotel Binda. We had been advised by friends to stop there, because the proprietor had served for years at Delmonico's New York establishment as head steward, and it was quite well patronized by Americans. It is a very neat and attractive place, just between the Rue St. Honore and Avenue del Opera, and only a few steps from the Louvre. The hotels have no large public office flanked with public parlors and lobbies, as do our Ameri- can hotels. You generally enter them through a low archway somewhat similar to the usual approaches to an American the- ater. At the farther end a door leads into a marble-paved court in which a fountain is generally playing. Opening into this court is a "bureau " where you can rent rooms, and for which you should always make stipulated terms. We got a large double room, including towels, soap, two candles per week and attendance, for ten francs per day. The newly arrived traveler in Paris is always advised by guides to take a drive over the city, preliminary to regular sight- seeing. We will take our preliminary drive in the form of a short history of the city. The first historic mention of the place is to be found in Caesar's commentaries, in which it is referred to as Lutitia, the 40 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. English of which is watertown or place in the zvater, doubtless so called because it was originally situated upon the isle — La Cite — in the Seine, and connected with the mainland on either side by a bridge. It was the fortress and capital city of a tribe of the Gauls called the Parish, "who, when pressed by their enemies, could take refuge upon the island and resist all ordinary attacks. From that tribe it obtained its present name. The first historic event in the city was the introduction of Christianity by one Denis, or Dyonisius, afterwards canonized and known as St. Denis. He was sent from Rome a. d. 250 to preach the gospel to the. Gauls. He preached and suffered at Aries and many other places, but finally arrived at Paris, where he made many disciples. In the year 272 a. d. he suffered martyrdom, in company with a priest named Rusticus and a deacon named Elutherius. Gregory of Tours states that their bodies were thrown into the Seine, from whence a pious woman rescued them and had them buried near the place of martyrdom. The Abbey of St. Denis still exists near Paris, in which they are supposed to sleep. Tradition has made St. Denis identical with Dyonisius the Arceopagite, who sided with Paul at the close of his Mars' Hill speech, but this is manifestly absurd, as it would require him to be at least two hundred and fifty years old. It was at Paris, a. d. 361, that Julian the Apostate was proclaimed emperor, and where he resided for a time as governor of the Gauls. A. D. 496 Clovis succeeded in expelling the Romans from Gaul and became the emperor of the Franks. At this time he was a heathen, but was married to a Chris- tian wife, Clotilda, who greatly de- sired his conversion. In the great battle with the Alemanni, becoming hard pressed, he called upon the God of his wife, and promised to become a JULIAN. LONDON TO PARIS. 43 Christian if he should win the victory. Having routed the enemy, he kept his word — on the following Christmas was baptized, in company with thousands of his soldiers, at Rheims. He built a church to Peter and Paul, but afterward dedicated it to St. Genevieve, who died during his reign. A. D. 752 Pepin founded the second or Carlovingian dy- nasty. He was succeeded by his son Charlemagne a. d. 768, the Alexander of mediaeval times. He defended the church upon all occasions, not only subduing his enemies with carnal weapons, but compelling chem to be baptized by means of the same power. He visited Rome a. d. 800, and while kneeliiig upon the steps of St. Peter's Church was crowned by Pope Leo HI. as Emperor of the West, and given the title of Charles I. Csesar Augustus. The crown used upon the occa- sion was what is known in history as the Iron Crown of Lom- bardy. The circlet is of gold and set in jewels. The inner circlet is an iron band, made of one of the nails from the cross of Christ (?). Tradition says it was given to Constantine by his mother Helena, who discovered the true cross at Jerusa- lem. It was afterwards used to crown all the Emperors who were kings of Lombardy. When at Milan Napoleon placed it upon his head and said: " God has given it to me ; woe to him who shall touch it." It is preserved with great care at Monza, near Milan, as the most noted crown of the world. A. D 987 Hugh Capet founded the third or Capetian dy- nasty. He succeeded the heirless Louis V., with whose death the blood of Charlemagne ceased to assert itself as a ruling power. A. D. 1339 the House of Valois assumed control, in the person of Philip VI., and continued to rule for 250 years. The House of Bourbon continued two centuries, to be overthrown in the "Revolution" of 1789 a. d., with the be- heading of Louis XVI., the dethronement of God, and the enthronement and worship of Reason. The rising sun of Napoleon's greatness made him Emperor in 1805 a. d., which position he held ten years. Upon the restoration of Louis XVIII, to the throne, a. d. 18 14, Napoleon was banished to Elba, but returned in triumph the following year, and again 44 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. began the brilliant career of conquest which ended in his defeat, by the Duke of Wellington, at Waterloo, and his ban- ishment to the island of St. Helena, where he died, May 5, 1 82 1 A. D. Since the time of Napoleon Paris has presented a stormy scene, with but little restfulness. The Republic of 1848 was followed by the second Empire, of 1852 a. d , when Na- poleon III. ascended the throne. The downfall of that monarch was followed by the Republic of 1870, which was succeeded the following year by the communistic insurrection. In 1879 A. D., Jules Grevy became President of the Republic, and held the position till December, 1887, when he was compelled to resign, and his place was filled by Sadi-Carnot, who still occupies it. PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL. To see Paris properly, one should classify the objects he desires to view, and visit them accordingly. The most promi- nent sights are the places or squares, generally ornamented with monuments, columns or obelisks. Then come the parks and fountains, and lastly public buildings, museums and churches. The Place du Trone is in the eastern part of the city, and is so called because Louis XIV. here erected a throne upon which to receive the homage of the people, because of the Peace of the Pyrenees. Two large fluted columns, repre- senting Commerce and Industry, stand on either side of the entrance, surmounted by statues of St. Louis and Philippe Au- guste. From this point it is said to be five miles to the Arch of Triumph, in the western portion of the city. Proceeding towards the west, we come upon the Place de la Bastille. Upon this spot a prison was erected for political prison- ers, by Charles V. and Charles VI. Here noblemen and authors, who had not been legally tried, were incarcerated at the pleas- ure of the king. Among the eminent victims of this place may be recorded the names of Voltaire, Bassompierre, and the famous Man of the Iron Mask. The Bastile came to symbol- ize oppression to the French mind, and the first violent symp. tom of the Revolution of 1789 was the storming of it, in which the commandant, De Launay, was killed, together with the venerable Archbishop of Paris, who was shot while trying to calm the m.ob. The building was demolished, and over the spot where it stood now rises the Column of July. It was built in 1840, and is a beautiful column one hundred and fifty- four feet high, surmounted by the Genius of Liberty, holding in one hand the torch of enlightenment, and in the other the broken chains of slavery. A very beautiful conception, and entirely in harmony with the sentiments of the French people. 46 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. We passed, also, the Tower of St. Jacques, which is noth- ing more than the steeple of the old church left standing. It interested us to know that from the summit of this tower Pas- STORMING THE BASTILE. cal made his first experiments in regard to atmospheric pressure. The Column Vendome rises in the Place Vendome. It is an imitation of Trajan's Column at Rome, and was erected by Napoleon Bonaparte to commemorate his victory over the Russians and Austrians, in 1805. The bronze covering is made of twelve hundred pieces of Austrian and Russian cannon. It was torn down by the Communists in 1871, but the fragments have been gathered and recast. Napoleon stands upon the top, representing Julius Caesar. A short distance west of the Place Vendome is the Place de la Concorde. Over this place the great ocean of French life has rolled in surgeful waves of blood and death, and doubt- less there is no other such historic spot in France. In 1770 the nuptials of Louis XVI. and Marie Antoinette were here celebrated, at which time a panic occurred by the discharge of PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL. 47 fireworks, which caused the carriages to be driven over the multitude, kilHng twelve hundred people and wounding two thousand. Here occurred the collision, which led to the de- struction of the Bastile. Here stood the guillotine, upon which perished in two years twenty-eight hundred people, an average of nearly four per day. Here were beheaded Louis and Marie, the Duke of Orleans and Gen. Beauharnais, Josephine's first husband, Robespierre and Charlotte Corday. A magnificent foun- tain throws up its crystal tides, where the scaffold of Louis XVL stood, and where the crimson tides of French no- bility played in those days, but, as Chateaubriand justly remarked, all the water in the world can not efface from hu- man history the horrible deeds committed there. The axe and block are gone. No grim axeman is to be seen waiting for his victims. In their places stand a crowd of smihng French men and women, nurses rolling sweet little infants along in baby carriages, and merry boys playing with the fishes in the foun- tains, while handsome equipages roll by on every side, and it is difficult to conceive that this was ever anything but a place of joy and beauty. May this prove a forerunner of what is yet to come to our sin-cursed earth, so much disturbed by strife and bloodshed. Near the fountain stands the Egyptian obelisk that was erected by Rameses 11. in front of the temple of Thebes, and presented to France by Mohammed AH. The French people decided to mark this spot with nothing that would recall any French History, and very wisely selected the Egyptian ruler's gift as a monument. The three master spirits in the great revolution that found THE GUILLOTINE. AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. its blood-center in the Place de la Concorde, were Danton, Robespierre and Marat. Danton was a lawyer of some ability. Robespierre was of noble stock, and also a lawyer ; while Marat was a medical student and a fanatical demagogue. He e./^uwyAT. JEAN PAUL MARAT. was wild in his harangues and sensitive to praise. On one occasion he attempted to blow out his brains, because of the indifference with which the audience received his clamor. These three men ruled anarchical France with more than im- perial power for a short period, but it could not last when reason came to the rescue of the nation. Robespierre perished by the guillotine, as did also Danton. Marat doubtless would have met with a similar fate, had he not been assassinated, in his bath, by a young French girl, Charlotte Corday, all three of them, however, in their violent deaths. PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL. 49 justifying the language of the Christ, " He that taketh the sword shall perish by the sword." The real cause of the French Revolution lay in the extravagance with which the Bourbon kings wasted the revenues of France by building palaces and parks for themselves and their favorites. The Palace of Versailles is one of which Voltaire remarked, " It is THE PALACE OF VERSAILLES. a gulf of expenses in which the treasures of France are sunk." It is indebted to Louis XIV. for what it is. Tiring of St. Ger- mains, he determined to erect a structure that should be the marvel of the world. He leveled a space having a circuit of sixty miles, and which was filled with hills and valleys. He brought water from great distances, employing in the work 36,000 men and 6,000 horses. The water display is very fine, the largest fountain alone costing ;^300,ooo, and each time it plays involving an expense of ^2,000. To attempt to describe Versailles, with its great acres of fine paintings, its groves of statuary, and the treasures of nearly a century and a half, is impossible in the limits of this work. The visitor sees the study of Napoleon Bonaparte, with its identical furniture, the bed-room of the Empress Josephine, and the one allotted to Queen Victoria on the occasion of her visit to Paris. go AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. In the Hall of the Crusades we have a complete panorama of the result of that wonderful uprising of European chivalry. One large picture represents the "Taking of Constantinople,"" another "The Capture of Antioch," another "The Siege of Acre," "The Battle of Ascalon," "Taking of Jerusalem," while still another represents the " March of the Crusaders around Jerusalem." Then come The Sieges of Rhodes and Malta. The Hall of Battles is a notable feature of the palace. It is four hundred feet long, forty feet wide and as many high. It contains, among others, the battles of Marengo, Wagram, Friedland, Rivoli, Austerlitz, Jena, The Passage of the Alps. This almost makes one feel that he is in the presence of Napo- leon. Nearly all his great battles are portrayed except Water- loo. Then there are whole galleries of distinguished French- men: one, of the Kings of France, containing seventy por- traits ; another, of the Bonaparte family ; another, of the Admirals of France — -fourteen rooms full of them. The place has a private Opera House, as large as any ordinary building of that kind ; also, a grand chapel to Him before whom kings are dust. The central chapel is surrounded by seven smaller ones, all profusely enriched. But speaking of churches brings us back again to Paris and its churches. Voltaire once remarked when the various churches of Paris were being mentioned, all, or nearly so, dedicated to the saints, that it was time somebody in Paris was building a church to God. Paris has hundreds of churches, but the little flock under Jules de Launay was the only one I found erected simply to God and wearing only the name of His Christ. First among the churches of Paris may be men- tioned the historic Cathedral of Notre Dame. The exterior of it is well rendered by the picture. Its two huge towers rise to the height of two hundred feet. Its great Catherine wheel in the front being nearly forty feet in diameter and filled with the most elegant colored glass. The interior is very impressive, with its great arches, its tall columns and fine altars. One of the finest views of Paris may be obtained from the towers. In those towers are the great bells that are so familiar to those who have read Victor Hugo's novel "The Hunchback of THE CATHEDRAL OF NOTRE DAME, PARIS. Page 51. PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL, 53 Notre Dame." The prettiest church in Paris is Sainte Chapelle, erected in 1245 a. d. for the reception of the rehcs purchased from Jean de Brienne, King of Jerusalem, for 3,000,000 francs. Among them were fragments of the true cross nail from same, and crown of thorns. These have all been removed to Notre Dame. In 1742 a. d. a human heart was found under the altar, supposed to be that of St. Louis. We have not space to write of St. Sulpice, St. Eustache, St. Augustine, St. Roche, etc. The Madeleine is the finest building in Paris, and next to the Parthenon the finest I saw in Europe. It was begun by Louis XV., but the Revolution stopped the work upon it. Napoleon turned it into a Temple of Glory. It stands upon a platform three hundred and twenty-eight feet long by one hun- dred and thirty-eight feet wide, and is surrounded by fifty-two Corinthian columns, forty-nine feet high and six feet in diame ter. The roof is copper and iron, the doors bronze and iron, and next to St. Peter's at Rome in size. Over the front pillars is a relief representing Christ as the Judge of the World ; the central figure of which is seventeen feet high, and yet from the street below it does not look larger than life size. Our account of Paris should now be at an end, and we have not said one word about the Louvre, the greatest of all Parisian attractions. I feel so utterly overwhelmed in attempting to portray it that I shall simply quote the sentiments of a distin- guished American traveler: "We have been in and through the Louvre, not in one visit, but again and again, over acres of flooring, past miles of pictures — a plethora of luxurious art, days of wonder, and hours of sight-seeing. How many originals we have gazed upon that we have seen copies of in every style ! how many pictures of great artists that we have read of, and how many curious and wonderful historical relics and antiquities ! What an opportunity for the student and artist ! What a source of amusement and entertainment, what a privilege, in these old countries, is the free admission to those costly and well stocked galleries of art — here, where we may see hundreds of cele- brated pictures and statues, any two of which would ' pay 54 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. handsomely ' placed on exhibition in one of our great Ameri- can cities; here, where there are seven miles of pictures, and their catalogue makes a thick book of over seven hundred pages ; here, where, if you were to start and walk constantly, without stopping an instant to rest, it would require three hours to pass through the different apartments ; here, where perhaps the American tourist or newspaper correspondent sharpens his pencil and takes a fresh note-book, with the feel- ing that it is a prolific field, but is overwhelmed with an ocean of art, and consoles himself with the thought that the Louvre has been so often described, written about, and commented on, that the subject is worn threadbare, and that the public has had enough rhapsodies and descriptions of it." I believe my readers will now excuse me if I do not drag them through this great continent of culture. The tomb of Napoleon is at the Church of the Invalides. . His body lies in a sarcophagus of Finland granite, weighing one hundred and thirty-five thousand pounds, and costing thirty thousand dol- lars, which surmounts another block six feet wide and twelve feet long, the whole being about fifteen feet high. It is in a circular crypt, the floor of which is a handsome crown worked in variously colored marble. In the chapel are the sword of Austerlitz, flags captured by the French, and such like Na- poleonic mementoes. I saw there the flag of every nation of the civilized world, with just one exception, and that one no American needs be told. Over the entrance to the crypt are the words of his will, "I desire that my ashes may repose upon the banks of the Seine, among the French people whom I loved so well." At the entrance are the sarcophagi of his two faithful friends, Duroc and Bertrand, the last of whom gave expression to that principle of gratitude, " I shared with him in his glory, and I will not desert him in his downfall." Over the tomb, the dome of the building rises to the height of one hundred and sixty feet. It is contrary to the regulations of the place for persons to speak louder than a whisper in the building. The great Arch of Triumph, begun by Napoleon in 1806, and since completed at a cost of over two millions of dollars, is one of the most imposing objects in Paris. It PARIS THE BEAUTIFUL. 55 towers aloft to the height of more than one hundred and fifty feet. It is one hundred and forty feet wide and seventy feet thick. The central arch is a curve forty-five feet wide and ninety feet high, and the smaller and transverse one is sixty feet high and twenty-five feet wide. From the summit of the Arch you can look down twelve grand avenues that center at its base, averaging perhaps two hundred feet wide, bordered by double rows of trees, flanked by the finest residences of the city, and paved with concrete, over which the carriages roll so smoothly that they hardly make any noise. PARIS TO PISA. We left Paris at 8 150 a. m., via Paris, Lyons and Mediter- ranean Railway. Passing through the beautiful forest of Fon- tainbleau, a little after noon, we reached Dijon, the ancient home of the Dukes of Burgundy, and at 7 p. m., we came to Macon, the seat of the wine trade for the eastern part of France. Macon is a dirty, irregular old place, with a mediaeval appearance that gives little promise of interest to the traveler. Our only reason for stopping there, was to make a break in the long journey from Paris to Turin. It was the home of Lamartine, a fine statue of whom adorns one of the public parks. We left at 3:50 A. m., and at daylight got our first and best view of the Alps, at Aix-le- Bains. This was an old Ro- man watering-place, and its waters still have great reputation. Queen Victoria expects to visit these waters next m.onth. She did not tell me so, but I found it out. At Modane,.we crossed the Italian border, and were subject to the usual farcical cus- toms' examination. It generally consists in putting down your portmanteau, and acting as though you were going to open it, when the officer asks you something in Italiaii, and you respond "no," and shake your head in English, and he will "chalk" you, and you pass on. They are, however, a little more strict than usual at this place. After leaving Modane, the train enters the Mt. Cenis tun- nel, nearly eight miles in length. I have read so many descrip- tions of this famous tunnel, which I know to be failures, that I shall not add to the list. Leaving the main tunnel, we passed at least a dozen smaller ones in the next twenty miles. We crossed very often the waters of the beautiful Dora river, that dashed down, bearing away the melting snows and looked as though it was the paradise of the mountain trout. We often ran around the nose of some mountain side, whence we could S6 PARIS TO PISA. 57 look down into a yawning chasm 800 to 1,000 feet. Once off the track, we would never stop till the bottom were reached. At length the gorge widened slightly, and we came into view of Susa, the Segusio of the ancient Romans. Looking out of the window, we get a view of a triumphal arch 44 feet high and 39 feet wide, erected by the Romans, A. d. 8. This grand old arch, though crumbling under the hammer ol the ice king, and gradually dissolving under the showers of the storm god, lifts its proud form to the gaze of modern travelers, a witness to the intense desire of man for immiortality — e'en though it be but earthly immortality. About I p. M., we reached Turin, and found most excel- lent quarters at Hotel Trombetta. Turin was founded by the Taurini, an ancient Ligurian tribe. It was destroyed by Han- nibal, 218 B. c. ; subsequently re-erected ; was the capital of Piedmont till 141 8, when it became subject to the Dukes of Savoy, who often resided there. In 1859 it became the capital of Italy, and so remained till 1865. It has always been the center of the struggle for unity. It possesses the most indus- trious and enterprising people of the nation, and is to Italy about what Chicago is to the United States. Everybody there is busy and brisk. Its streets are regularly laid out, crossing each other nearly always at right angles. Street cars and tram- ways run all through the city, and it is as guiltless of the Paris and London system of cabs as one of our Western towns. The people are very obliging and kind to strangers. I have reason to believe, also, that they are honest. This forenoon, while going through the Academy of Antiquities, our guide, who could not speak a word of English, had been very oblig- ing, and had done his very best. Strange to say, too, it was not long till I could understand almost everything he told me. On bidding him farewell, I slipped a franc into his hand — at least I aimed to do so ; but by mistake slipped a gold, French Napoleon — 20 franc piece. He followed me two blocks, and handed it back, saying it must be a mistake, putting his hand upon his breast to let me know that manhood to him was worth more than a Napoleon. I relate this incident merely to show that people here are 58 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. no more dishonest than at home. It is no exception to the general rule, so far as our experience goes. Bro. Errett and I have had no cause of complaint from any public servant, no trouble with hotel-keepers or tradesmen. It may be that we have not reached "the place " yet; but if my present experi- ence holds out, I shall go back home with the impression that there is something wrong with those travelers who have great stories to tell of their mistreatment at the hands of Europeans. The great curiosity of Turin is its Museum of Antiquities, embracing Babylonian, Egyptian, Grecian, Roman, Cyprian, Etruscan and Sardinian collections. Its Egyptian collection is considered one of the finest in the world. The few finest speci- mens that I can mention in this letter are, (i) A colossal statue of Seti II. in red sandstone ; (2) a red granite statue of Amenophis XL, a smallar one in black granite; (3) a black statue of Ram- eses II. (Sesostris), whose mummy we expect to see when we get to Egypt, as it has lately been unrolled and placed in the museum at Boulac ; (4) mummies of kings and queens, of crocodiles, dogs, cats, birds, and all other kinds of household pets. It seems that Egyptian ladies were as fond of their pets in their day as the American and English ladies are now. To the credit of the Continental ladies be it said, we have not seen any such disgusting exhibitions of taste as are some- times displayed by our own countrywomen. I have seen but one little poodle led around on the Continent, and that was by an English " dude." One of the saddest sights in this collection was the mum- mies of little babes. When I thought with what sorrowful love their parents had laid away the dear little forms, thousands of years ago, and now saw them torn from their resting pla- ces and brought to a foreign land, to be gazed at by strange and curious eyes, it seemed to me almost too sacrilegious to be justified in the name of civilization. It seemed to me the little forms were lonely and homesick. There was also a very large collection of the sacred beetle. This beetle was to the Egyp- tians an emblem not only of the Creator and Preserver, but also of the immortality of the soul. It was the most common PARIS TO PISA. 59 article to be found among the Egyptian sacred things. It was worn by the hving and deposited in the grave with the dead. In some cases it was placed in the body when embalmed, and was deposited where the heart was when the person was in life. These beetles are made now in large quantities, and sold by little Egyptian boys to travelers as relics. Also, small household gods, from the plain wood of the humble homes of Egypt to the alabaster and bronze of richer classes. They had "poor men's gods" and "rich men's gods" then, as we do now, except we have reduced them to the singular number. In this room, are the celebrated papyrus fragments of the Annals of Manetho, which give a list of the Kings of Egypt down to the 19th dynasty, discovered by Champollion. Also the celebrated "Book of the Dead," edited by Lepsius. In the next room, the most important object is a large rectangular bronze plate about 2x4 feet; it sounds bell-like when struck, and is covered with all sorts of curious hieroglyphic inscriptions. It is the celebrated "Tabula Isiaca," which has puzzled the wits of the wise men for several centuries. It is now thought to be spurious, and to have been made in Rome in the time of Hadrian. Turning to the left, we enter the Chamber of Cyprian curiosities, too large and varied for me to attempt to describe The last room is devoted to Roman sculpture. It contains the busts of Roman Emperors, poets, philosophers (as also Greek, in Roman art). It seemed strange to be gazing upon the marble features of Augustus, Julius, Marcus Aure- lius, Nero and Caligula. Despite his bad record, the most pleasing and handsome of all the Roman Emperors, is Caligula. Then, too, we had Plato, Socrates (but not Xantippe) and An- tinous. In the same room is a remarkable head of Venus, one of the most ancient and perfect in the world. Around the walls was a large collection of the famous Etruscan vases, some of which, deeply inlaid with ivory, rival any of the fam- ous Sevres vases of to-day, though the Etruscans were ignor- ant of the art of enameling. In the floor of the room are mosaics of Orpheus and his lyre, and a lion, a goat and an ass. It is supposed that it was the intention of the maker to represent these animals as listenmg 60 AN HISTORICAL PILGRIMAGE. to his music ; but as Orpheus was not playing upon his lyre, I could not bring myself to the point of believing them to be listening. The picture gallery in the same building consists of fifteen rooms, but can not compare with those of Florence or other Italian centers of ancient art. - Wandering down the street this morning we saw a proces- sion crossing the street before us. It was a church funeral. In front were about sixty nuns, wearing white caps and aprons, with white capes over their shoulders and black veils over their heads. They were chanting, and sweetly, too. In reply to this, would come a half song and half wail from the priests who followed them. Behind these came the hearse, then the mourners and the rabble. We joined the latter element of the procession, and followed till they went into a beautiful little church where the services were held. These Avere quite im- pressive, but lasted only about fifteen minutes. We learned, after leaving the church, that it was the one where Rousseau, when an exile from Geneva, embraced the Catholic faith at sixteen years of age. Turin has a large number of small squares or piazzas, in each of which you will find an elegant statue. In the Piazza Carlo Emmanuelle is a handsome monument to Count Cavour, the great Italian diplomat. It represents grateful Italy presenting him with the civic crown, while he holdS' in his left hand a scroll on which are the words, "Liberal Justice in a Liberal State." In the Piazza San Carlo is an other monument to Emmanuelle Philibert, Duke of Savoy. It is a statue in bronze, mounted upon a granite base adorned with reliefs. On the west side is represented the battle of St. Quentin, gained by the Duke under Philip II. of Spain, against the French in 1557, and on the east side the Peace of Chateaucambresis, which restored the Duchy to the House of Savoy. The Piazza Solferino is adorned with an elegant statue of Duke Ferdinand of Genoa. He is on horseback and is represented as com- manding at the battle of Novara. I should judge the horse to be twenty-five feet long, and the rest of the statue in propor- tion. The Piazza Savoia has an obelisk 75 feet high, to com- memorate the abolition of ecclesiastical jurisdiction, in 1850. PARIS TO PISA. 6 1 To me this was the greatest of them all. Just in front of the old citadel stands a bronze statue of Pietro Micca, a brave young "soldat minatore, " who, at the sacrifice of his own life, saved the citadel of Turin in 1706, by springing a mine just as the French grenadiers had advanced to the gates of the citadel. It stands upon the spot where the mine was sprung. I presume there are forty such statues in the city. You can find no spot in the city where you can not see at least one. Often many are in view at once. The old church of St. John the Baptist is well worth a visit to Turin. Over the west portal is an elegant copy of Leonardo da Vinci's Tast Supper. Over the second altar are eighteen small pictures of rare value, by de Ferrari. I presume they are of great value, but they look like some in my father-in-law's garret at home. Behind the great altar is the Capella del Santissimo Sudario. It is a lofty cir- cular chapel of dark brown marble. It is the burial place of the Dukes of Savoy. In a kind of urn over the altar is pre- served the Santissimo Sudario, which is nothing less than a part of the linen cloth that was wrapped around the body of the Saviour after he was taken down from the cross. Of course neither of us had any faith in this monkish story; but zve wanted to see that cloth. The door of the chapel was locked, as it is only open during the morning mass till nine o'clock; but by the offering of a little franc-m