Class / e / >v Book . ^ {^ GoEyriglTtW_ CORMGHT DEPOSni O W UJ LU X I- z o X o UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Being The Prairie Pioneer's Primer BY HARRY P. SIMMONS With Photographs By The Author. S Published by THE MECHANICAL ARTS Co. j« YORK NEBRASKA. ) 1922 ^ ^ ^ i ,Sfo Copyright, 1922 By Harry P. Simmons. Mfl'i 15 72 g)CU674l37 -wo I Si To the memory of one Keeper of the Lamps, this little book is dedicated by her son. PAX BEATA I've closed my door and am all alone. Here in my room, all fragrant with my better self. Here are my pictures that have waited long for me; Erasmus with his studious calm; My playing children and my laughing girl. My quaint stiff angels and my meek St. John — They greet me as I come to them for rest. Upon the shelves my other friends Are waiting, too, for me; my friends That take me far beyond my tiny room And make its sunny space A gleaming entrance into other lands. There is my bed, where all the night My body lies asleep And leaves my soul quite free To wander with the winds. There is my window where 1 say my prayers And look straight out upon the solid hills And listen for the rustle of the angels' wings. My room, all sweet with flowers I love That grov>/ for me because I love them; All fragrant, too, v»'ith ghosts o^ flowers That bloomed and drooped with me; My room so still and quiet, yet astir With all the souls of those that love and trust me, Outside the strife and struggle and the strain; In here there's peace, and quietude and strength — I've closed my door and I am all alone. SAINT LOUIS POST-DISPATCH M^. CONTENTS IV V VI VII VIII IX X XI XII XIII XIV THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS ... I THE LAMP ITSELF 17 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS ' . . 29 THE COURTHOUSE SQUARE . . , 49 EVENING PEACE IN THE FIELDS . 71 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY , 79 BASIN DAYS 99 SIGHTS &■ SOUNDS of YESTERDAY .III OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN SHEAVES OF WHEAT . . . WINDY DAYS AND CALM . . ALONG THE FENCE LINES . SILENT TRAILS 131 145 169 179 193 209 tfd^''- ILLUSTRATIONS Twilight on the Platte. Frontpiece Soldier's monument, showing Blue valley in the distance . 15 Above the dam in old days at the "Seeley" mill . 38 A reminder of stereoscopic photograph times . 60 Henry Blank on the road leading to the home of his heart's desire 93 The stackyard, and its surroundings . . .120 Bridge over a Nebraska stream, well known to the public . 143 Thunderheads fading at sunset, the stonn danger gone 179 Section of the abandoned Erie and Ohio canal . .211 T he chapters contained herein, are not to be considered biographi- cal. That class of literature is reserved for the great, and those who think they are great. Q When the personal appears it is to help bring to the reader long- gone days and experiences of his or her own; since so many things pertaining to early life on the prairie were com- mon to all of us. (j[ The beaten path, has been avoided wherever possible to make a detour. While some details would fit daily lives in several western states, the aim has been to m.ake this a Nebraska book. Q It is hoped that the illustrations will add to its value as a souvenir, or an entertainer for sister's beau. Actual photographs direct from the negatives, surely increase the cost of production. H.P.S. York, Nebraska. April, 1922. ^ ^ ^ THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS About forty years ago at the close of a beauti- ful June day, a small boy— future citizen of the Nebraska prairies, studied the sky closely with a very anxious look. All signs were favorable for the morrow to be as perfect as the day just fad- ing into twilight. With a little sigh of relief he turned from the window and took to his bed a full hour earlier than usual; for he must arise very early the next morning, doing so willingly and eagerly, which would be unusual. A boy takes to water just as naturally as any duck ever dared to do; but the boy may in time outgrow the habit, while the duck keeps pad- dling around, even in old age. On the western plains of years ago, boys were raised far from their native element; and the few fishing excur- sions to some little stream— miles away perhaps, 1 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP were days of riotous joy looked foward to with burning eagerness. Frequently the boy's holiday combined busi- ness and pleasure. Going to mill, was the pri- mary object of some of these excursions. Fish- ing or other recreations relating to water could be indujged in while waiting for the "grist. The June trip was more liable to come as a reward for faithfulness to farm duties, since little milling was done at that time of year. No matter which reason allowed the day's outing, the starved soul of the prairie boy welcomed it gladly. So to the one with small opportunity for youth- ful pleasures naturally craved, this drive of a doz- en miles or more across the newly settled land was an event of the year rivalling the visit of the one- ring circus at the county seat. Who, unless he has lived the part, can picture that early morning ride along the road which curved not an inch in all the miles unless the surveyor had made a mis- take, or at the county line where the correction for curvature of the earth's surface was made— a thing too technical for small boys. 2 THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS It did seem so strange that others should be going about their farm duties as usual that morn- ing. But there they were, hitching up their teams and going out to plow corn just as if such a day at the river had never been theirs to en-, joy and revel in. The corn rows were like so many bright lines of green on the black soil newdy turned by the plow, and extending straight acrcss the field to such a distance that the eastern farmer would not believe it if we told him. The boy formed his opinion of the owner of the field by the straightness cf the corn rows. If they did not sag in the middle, or have any little wobbly crooks here and there — the owner was a man of ability. But on the contrary, if these rows swerv- ed and curved around most anywhere, the boy was quite sure of the owner's mental weakness, or at least his indecision of character. During the last mile of that early morning ride, a double bow-knot tied in a corn row would not have attracted the lad's attention; for was net the river just ahead ? In a few minutes when 3 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP the crest in the rise of the road was reached, the expanse of water above the dam lay flashing in the bright sun. There — at last — lay the river in its beautiful valley cf grasses below; and for miles up or down stream the course C3uld be followed by the thick fringe of timber which bordered the banks cxse- ly — so closely indeed that the sxall stream was completely hidden. With just a little awe and a slight shiver, the urchin viewed the waters above the dam; for he had heard of people being drowned there while boating or fishing; and — well, he only saw it once a year and couldn't feel just as one might who lived near and became familiar with the spectacle. The Ohio or Mississippi at present at any point cf their picturesque valleys, could not bring up such a feeling as did the first sight of the little Blue, running so slowly and quietly through that valley of the prairies. And now there is the bridge below the dam — almost over-arched with treetops. Such trees ! After a year, perhaps, with no sight cf timber 4 THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS other than the struggling cottonwoods and box- alders, it seemed like the entrance to a veritable forest. The sound of water falling over the dam and the rumbling of the mill, made complete the illusion of a new land of wonder. Even the horses were so little accustomed to the ways of advanc- ing civilization, that they started over the bridge very cautiously, jumping at the sound of their own footsteps on the planking. At the mi]l stables, the farmer's horses were always welcome. But to the boy who WtS in- debted to the team for a ride over the prairie road that morning, it seemed almost a waste of time to be compelled to assist in unhitching the ani- mals, before he — the boy, not the team — was turned loose for the day, after many warnings against falling into that deep water above the wonderful dam. For the first half hour or so, there wouM be a survey in general of things in the neighborhood of the mill. Then all finny inhabitants cf the stream who happened to be loafing around in the vicinity, were given the chance cf their lives to 5 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP get out and live more quiet and genteel lives in the seclusion of the stock tanks. For at this time in his career, eating them did not appeal to the boy at all. Just to "take them home alive," was the sole idea. Those tanks of heavy plank staves held togethet with iron bands, made aquariums of a high order. Here the cat- tle and horses stood long and drank deep when the summer south wind blew. But back to the particular scene of the day. Sitting in the shade cf the mill, where the water came out from the wheel-pit — with a wil- low pole suitably placed to control a cotton line attached thereto, in case the floating cork fasten- ed to said line took on a violent bobbing move- ment, there was now a fine opportunity to spec- ulate on other things pertaining to rivers and wa- ters; for at times the catfish and redhorse were very negligent as to their duty in biting, so the youthful dreamier could let his thoughts wander with little danger of interruption. But just as all other accidents in life come when least expected — there would be a few quick 6 THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS bobbings of the cork, then under water it went before the boy was able to collect his wits. He made a wild pull which had none of the grace of a real angler in it. The fish simply cut thru the air, and landed far out in the tall weeds or brush; and must be hunted like some native of the dry land. After one of these hunts for the game on the banks, the boy made up his mind to pull in a more dignified and self-pcssessed manner the next time, but there is no proof that he ever made a success of it. Perhaps the steady rumble of the mill helped the lad's mood for dreaming, as the music of an orchestra helps the expression of ideas in a play. At any rate it was here by the millrace, with the sound of water falling over the dam in a mono- tone varying only as the summer breeze rose or fell among the treetops — that the boy first really dreamed of the world outside; and of the big riv- ers which he hoped to see some day. But it was a dream that was to last all the boyhood days and all the years, until it became a reality. Stream worship was instilled for a lifetime. 7 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP The school geography held about all the printed information concerning rivers and other bodies of water which was available to the boy at the time. However there was another source, an oral one,, handed down like the traditions of the tribes. His grandfathers and possibly a neighbor or two, had come years before from the distant lands along the Ohio. To the boy they had told tales about steamboats, and of life on the rivers and canals. With this connecting link to the subject, which, in some way, had become of such great interest to him, the imagination was stim- ulated to outdo itself. Just then, there was noth- ing farther from his thoughts than writing tales forty years afterward from that same valley cf the Ohio, with whistles of steamboats mellowed by distance, helping to bring recollections of this long gone fishing day. And then — dinnertime. Those things which mother had put up that morning tasted extraor- dinarily good out under the trees, and with such novel surroundings. Possibly a very early break- fast helped to create the appetite. 8 THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS After dinner, properly chaperoned by some older member of the family who could swim — a boat-ride was allowed on thrt glorious, sparkling l?.ke above the dam. To the east — at the end of the dam, and fram- ed in a bower cf trees— the mill stood majestic and imposing. The rumble of its machinery, came floating over the water, and njade the three hundred and sixty-four days cf the year spent on dry land seem hazy and indistinct. But since there are two periods cf joy in a picnic excursion — the joy of arriving on the scene, and the joy of starting hoir.e — the second period came in due time. When the afternoon had passed well along and the sun swung down low in the west, and the south wind had become a mere whisper, the novelty uf the day had be- gun to wane. Things were packed together in the wagon for the journey homeward. The horses start out ea- gerly, knowing well their destination. Along the way, those who had so serenely staid at home to plow corn were coming in from their day's 9 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP work, with no apparent concern for the fun they had missed at the river. Perhaps they go on Sunday. What sinners ! That night, as the boy went the round of his chores, he thought of the stream he had visited and wondered how h looked in the moonlight. When he took to his pillow — tired by the ex- citement and exertion of the trip — to his sleepy brain came the thought of the water falling over the dam. It lulled him promptly to sleep. And his dreams were all happy ones; for in youth those of the future, relate only to success and brilliant achievement. ftaf' &si^ ^oi' >^3^ &ai' r-iiSy ^H' J^si' Aa^ By means of the above row of clover blossoms we bridge a space of forty years. Again the mill and the dam, in the golden light of an evening in late October, instead of June. An Indian sum- mer haze lies over the peaceful valley of the Blue. The yellow blaze of autumn color is on the trees along the stream, and the leaves are drifting down as they have done for forty autumns since that 10 THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS first day of dreams. It is appropriate that the day has been one of mellow calm which the old settlers knew and learned to love so well. For this golden light of late afternoon softens the out- liaes of a picture that brings a pang to the heart. Gone is the broad expanse cf back water above the dam. The rumble of wheels, and rush of escaping water is stilled, forever, probably. The Blue, back in its original channel, flows slowly and silently thru an opening in the dam made by a flood a few years ago. The Seeley mill — that Mecca for numbers of youthful stream worshippers so long ago — stands waiting, just waiting. Time- weathered but erect, it speaks in its own way to those who knew it away back in the early seventies. Broken window lights, faded paint, a jumble of the old time machinery yet lying inside; but to the ones who rode behind a team up to the doorway, away back in the prairie days, it is hard to dispel the illusion that the ghostly form of the miller in his flour-covered suit and cap, will not soon appear at the door. 11 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Yes, it is autumn with the mill as well as the year; and for this visii: tie falling leaves are more appropriate than would be the murmuring leaves cf June, forty years ago. The mill and its surroundings have reached the true stage of picturesqueness. Mills at a sim- ilar tim.e in their careers, have always been a subject for the arrist. Therefore, silent rnd de- serted mills have adorned walls of homes over a great part of the universe. But today — brought face to face with a reali- zation of how much is gone with the years which brought idleness and decay to this, our personal mil], it is impressed upon us that a picture to a 'orn our own wall, should be somebody ease's childhood dreamworld. This one is too near the heart. Its all wound round with memories, n^any sad ones, just yet. To put a picture cf it on our wall now, would be too much like putting up one cf the family plot in the ce.netery. It may be different after the shock of first sight wears away. It might even come to be that a series cf pictures, show- 12 THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS ing the present day mill and its surroundings, would produce a pleasant mental pastime. For dreams cf the past, good and sweet, might come from studying the views; just as wonderful ones of the future came fron the rumble of the whsel and rush of water in boyhood. During recent years, while living in the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, constant acquaintance with those mighty rivers brought thoughts of this beautiful little valley of old. There was the idea, with pleasant anticipation, of making a pilgrimage to it. But change in physical appear- ance of the locality, had n3t been considered in the plans. To sit here new in this soft October twilight, and try to unroll the scroll of years dack to the first day cf dreams — the task would re- quire many such twilights, with some June dawns and sunsets added. You — reader — if your days go a long way back in this prairie state of straight and distant hori- zons, with unbroken domes of sky overhead, give sympathy and take the case home to yourself. You have a mill, or some similar thing in your 13 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP memories of youth. Let us hope that you are not one of the unfortunate city-born, whose ear- ly recollections are those of a back yard play ground, with a clattering, noisy street in front. You may retort that you had fine parks. True, but "Keep Off The Grass." met you at every turn, and all things provided by the park authorities were so very patent and formal. You had to play just so, or sit and twirl your thumbs; for the park policeman was on watch for mischievous and rebellious ones. Nebraska has many beautiful spots which cities in other states would be glad to have in their park systems; if it were possible. In the region of the old Seeley mil], York county has a place of which it may well take pride. The writer speaks now — not as a small boy to whom some simple thing might appear as one of the seven wonders — but as a man familiar with many famed places of nature in our United States. If only height of mountain or depth of canon is the measure of a scene out of doors, it can not satisfy; but to those who have a practical vision, 14 w o C JJ O +-• C '-I- o *-■ o '0 ZJ c Cj ci (/5 CO o 5 -t^ . _: 4— > -n o 00 c D ^ K a o !_: •— (/5 ^ "S _c >s +-" 00 «J > «3 1 00 V*- -^ CQ (.^ s_ o «3 Q :^ +-* ^ < c o S THE FIRST DAY OF DREAMS the fertility of the slopes along our little valleys is taken into account. The Palisades of the Hudson are grand but worthless. Prairie scenes have their peculiar type of beauty, a practical one, which must be under- stood to be appreciated. All parks have their custodians, and our little one on the Blue has its own — the statue of the soldier of far away '61. In the cemetery near Lushton, standing on the north slope of the val- ley, this life-size figure is a most impressive one. Out in the open country, its situation reminds one of French's justly famed historical statue, The Minute Man, at Concord. To anyone who stops and considers its signifi- cance, our statue will appeal as a most fitting thing. A great number of the county's pioneers were veterans of the Civil war; coming soon after its close to replenish their fortunes on these prairies, where homesteads anb cheap lands were open to settlement. Memorial day in those times was fitting to its name, not having degenerated into a National 15 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP holiday for racing and general sports. "The sound of marching men," was a very real thing on that May day, when the prairie was tingeing with its new green. This body of farmers, with comrades from the small towns, made the leading feature of the services. The small boys and girls looked on in awe, as well they might; for those fathers and neighbors had been, "Minute Men, " of a great struggle now fast being forgotton. But over the valley tonight, as the western sky's color fades into darkness, it is very fitting that this statue stands gaurd. The old soldier played a great part in our state's settlement. m 16 II THE LAMP ITSELF On a busy retail street of this Ohio valley city, is a large store where a fine display of gas and electric lighting fixtures fill the windows. Inside, on handsome library tables, are lamps, veritable masterpieces of intricate design and workman- ship. It is all palatial in effect, and the salesroom looks like a fanciful forest of glowing color. Along the residence streets after dark is win- dow after window thru which can be seen rooms softly lighted in delicate tints by colored shades of the table la nps, or more brilliantly lighted by clusters suspended fror the ceilings. Since the curtains are left undrawn, it is probable those inside wish the passer-by to see and admire the coziness of the home. Therefore no apology is needed for having looked in while passing. 17 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Seated in easy rockers under the soft glow of tinted lights, it would seem that little was left for which to wish in the way of comfort. The members of the househDld are beyond reach of winter outside. And it would also seem that in such an air of cjinfort and coziness, the intellect would be stinulated to action, giving a clear un- derstanding without undue effort. But it is not on record that the world's great achievements were inspired by such surroundings, desirable as they may be. These conditions tend more to mental relax- ation than anything else. When we read some thing concerning haunts and habits of students absorbed in investigations and solving of prob- lems, or an author digging a story out of his brain, it is almost invariably the case that we find a re- tirement to a secluded spot, with the simplest surroundings possible. For the theme at hand, all modern inventions in the matter of lighting, are under a ban.. The inspiration is to come from a plain kerosene lamp of the variety early boyhood knew. Being 18 THE LAMP ITSELF glass, a glance will tell how much oil is yet in store. Sometimes it forces an early retirement, from neglect in filling the bowl. The "burner," is of the flat wick pattern, but is wider than wicks of lamps which were kept in a row on a shelf of the early home on the prairie. It gives ample light for the table piled with odes and ends of literature. Fastened to the burner, is a three-pronged attachment which supports a large white porcelain shade. This, while leaving the greater part of the room dimly lighted, floods the table with a glow sufficient for all needs. Sj with the flame adjusted for the evening, it is time for remarks more or less gen- eral and specific regarding the lamp in years gone by, when it came nearer being a luxury. Many are yet living who knew the candle when it held the honor of being chief illuminator of private households, and many public institutions besides. Then, the idea of transmitting light by wire would have been impatiently scoffed at. One does not have to be very far along in years to remember having seen his grandmother, or 19 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP even his mother, making candles. Neither is the kerosene lamp ancient history; for modern science has not been able to replace it with an economical hand lamp, which, for an invest- ment of forty cents, will bring cheer into even a cabin. "Rushing the can," yes the kerosene can is yet being rushed all over the United States whenever it is found empty, and a long winter evening is at hand. With the coming of the kerosene lamp, came new possibilities in the way of parlor ornamenta- tion. Rebecca of Sunnybrock Farm, realized this fact, when she labored selling soap to gain a banquet lamp for the destitute family in her neighborhood. Those round-burner parlor ornaments certain- drew heavily on the oil. They were generally lighted just before the first guests of the evening were billed to arrive, and "blowed" out as soon as the last one got out of the yard. Hawthorne deplored the coming of closed stoves; making the point that loss of open fires would result in cheerless homes. The kerosene 20 THE LAMP ITSELF lamp routed tbe candle, and made up for loss of the open fire. It was a flexible source of illumi- nation. That is,- it could be turned very low — a vast improvement; for nobody had succeebed in regulating the candle, which always burned full blast down to the socket. Limited only by the point where smoke began to rise, the lamp's flame could be adapted to se\'- eral purposes or conditions. With the wick on "high; " the family circle read or followed what- ever pastime came to hand, Shifted to interm^e- diate, it gave proper light for carrying on jour- neys thru darkened and unused roomys. On low, it became the beacon to be placed by the win- dow for the ones who might be out at night on errands across a stretch of prairie. When the belated one arrived, even though the family might be deep in slumber, there was something welcome and satisfying to the heart in that low-turned flame of the lamp, dimly outlin- ing familiar objects in the room which yet held warmth of the evening fire. How pleasant it was then to sit for a little while, just idly musing over 21 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP nothing at all. A relaxation of all the senses — so it seemed. As the stove cooled down, the metal body gave out sounds of contraction, which, gradually lessening in number and force, seemed to suggest that the stove was also preparing for a night's slumber. This by a sort of mental suggestion, helped drive away any tendency to- ward insomnia in the one who sat musing. Is it possibJe that our homes in those days came nearer fitting the true meaning of the word ? As one took a glance around the room before giving a puff of breath down the chim- ney of the lamp, thereby removing the beacon window from the landscape of the night, there was more of a sense of fellowship with the fur- niture than exists at present. Nowadays, pieces are matched to fit each room, and all must be part of a harmonious whole. There is no partic- ular regard for any of it. If occasion required, it would all be sold tomorrow, and an entirely new outfit put in its place. But our mothers and fathers did not do it that way. The old bureau was secure in a lifetime job. 22 THE LAMP ITSELF Since the kerosene lamp became a companion in boyhood, there is nothing strange in the fact that memories of long gone prairie days are much easier recalled under its glow now, though the uproar of city streets comes constantly to the ear. The daily paper, or anything relating to business affairs is taken as matter of fact under the gas or electric light; but to get back forty years — well, the fact that the electrician failed for some reason to connect this room onto the wiring system of the house, is now a matter for thankfulness. It shall be left just as it is, and given over to the influence of the old time lamp. In youthful days, we drew the curtains early to make it dark enough for lighting of the lamp; thus shutting out the dreary winter twilight, and thus entering another world of books and dreams, bringing forgetfulness of the lonesome night out- side. Ours was an orderly community, where nearly all retired early. After ten o'clock a lock over the little town close by, or the level stretch of country roundabout, hardly ever disclosed the gleam of a lamp. It was a rare thing to burn 23 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP midnight oil. The burglar was a negligable quantity; thus an all night light was not needed. One might, occasionally, sit up until midnight on a winter evening, absorbed in a regulation old line novel; but if a light was seen burning in the snail hours after that time, it was almost a sure sign some one was sick; and the neighbors wondered what had happened. Lamp lighting time in summer, was a different matter. In fact, no lamp was used at all if it could be avuided. Long days gave light for all purposes until so nearly bedtime, that little need existed for more. Early rising cf the busy sum- mer months automatically squelched any prone- ness to late hours. If one had to rise at four- thirty, and steal a march en the flies at the milking lot— then toil in the sun until the shad- ows stretched long over the fields, there seemed to be a sort of animal instinct which caused a fellow to retire and appreciate the comfort of his bed, without inclination or desire for musing un- der shade of the lamp. Quick oblivion in slum- ber sweet, was the sole ambition. 24 THE LAMP ITSELF When you went down to the big terminal sta- tion a few evenings since, for the start oii an all night journey, the maze of intricate electric signs was not giving you concern as you passed along the streets; and the long rows of arcs ex- tending from the train-shed out thru the yards was taken as matter of fact. Even the electrically lighted cc aches and sleepers was an old story. A dazzling headlight swept the track for half a mile bey«-.nd the locomotive. But it is an age of light; you already knew it, and there was no need in getting excited about it on this particular night ride. At nine o'clock, the signal came on the min- ute. The station with its rows of busy tracks, glided noiselessly back and away. After clank- ing over numerous switches with their red and green eyes — how these switch lights awed us country boys, when we first came into town af- ter night. Soon the train was running past sub- urban streets, where arcs at the corners glare intensely bright, in contrast with dark spaces midway of the blocks. 25 UNDER THE ICEROSENE LAMP Even the reflection of the city's glare on the smoke and cloud above was soon lost to view, as the train sped thru the silence of a country night. The dazzHng headlight gave an unearth- ly halo to the track ahead, making the telegraph poles stand like a spectral line of sentinels. By contrast, kerosene lamps cf the farmhouses look yellow and feeble. Then came scattered lights where city and country meet, looking like shining stars in the inky blackness which blenkets the world beyond the outskirts. You had reached the place where a light hcS individuality; where it becom.es a personal friend. Soon they wink out. Then in the hour before dawn, they come ag^in end fade with lighting of the eastern sky. It is hard to realize that the morning lights are not the same ones which dis- appeared at bedtime. The interval of space passed by the night journey has been a blank to the senses; but, if in the passing, solitary lights along the way did not take you back to a partic- ular one in your dim past, when its little circle 26 THE LAMP ITSELF made for your comfort and pleasure during long imeventful evenings — it is a sure sign that you never had rural experience. If you did, there has been a most wonderful forgetting process at work in your system. That small world of light under the porcelain shade of the la.np — tonight it seems to hold the wandering mind within its glow, and keep away everything pertaining to the rush and clamor cf the streets c^utside. It is the soft, cozy glow which opened the realms cf mystery in bookland during the Lng winter evenings wrapped in the silence of the Nebraska prairie many years ago. In the shadows of the room., som.e rows of bocks dating back to these days, repcse on the shelves in various attitudes. But a sort of settling process has taken place, and many that in times past were intimate friends, or at least played an important part in the prep- aration for mature years, have sunk by the grav- ity of neglect to rows near the floor. Others more in the spirit of the times, hold the posts of honor. 27 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Who — if a favorite book of youthful days means anything more to him than so much pa- per between the covers — can avoid a little sigh for the day in his mind's youth, when those pages opened up new scenes, gave him knowl- edge bit by bit, and on pages of fiction found new friends to admire; possibly making a stan- dard fcr his selection cf future real cnes in flesh and blocd. Beyond the lamp's circle, other objects rest in varying degrees of shade and shadow. The tick of the clock completes the setting; for was it not in prairie days almost a living thing ? In the silent places, it came to mean more than a thing to record time; and when it struck the hours — well — in a room quiet enough for the clock to be good company, is where people really think. 28 Ill THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS In the old kercsene days, there was one who filled the lamps, cleaned the burners, then wash- ed and polished the chimneys. This act was typical cf her pkce in the home. The small lamps gave little light at best, but clear chim.- neys helped. So the effort the pioneer mother put into the polishing, wes but a part of her tireless round to keep the home on the prairie waste bright and cheerful. No — "prairie waste," is net a fair appellation. Every acre yet unturned by the breaking-plow was heavy with grass, and the rich soil under- neath lay awaiting its mission to bring forth the wealth that would fulfill the settlers dream. There was pleasure in the green of spring and summer months, over the sun-bathed expanse extending to the unbroken horizon line in every 29 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP direction. But for two-thirds of the year there was nothing in the view which gave comfort or a sense of companionship to her who tried as best she could to keep back thoughts of the old homeland far erst of the Missouri. There, the parental roof still sheltered these near and dear to her. Its surrounding acres were more endow- ed with the beauty of weeds and streams than the new home she was helping to make. Settlers in the creek valleys had a little timber along the stream's course; but on the treeless upland homesteads, the newly planted cotton- woods see^.-ed so slow in their growth for the first few years, that they only whetted the appe- tite for a sight ef the old eastern home trees and vines. Barrenness of the landscape for over half the year, must be considered ene of the greatest hardships the prairie mother had to endure in the beginning. Had she not in girlhood known the beauty of woods and streams elsewhere, it might not have mattered so much. Of course the longing for old home scenes and faces would have been there, even if the new 30 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS land had been a bower of beauty; but to look out day after day on a dead brown monotony stretching far on all sides, dotted sparsely with small sod or frame houses gave little food for in- spiration. Each family was out of hail of the other; must spend the day and night again and again in its own round of duties; must find in its small stock of books and papers the solace for the long hours; must see the fall days shorten and grow chilly at dusk, and know the storms of winter would s^on be ct hand, shutting off most of the visits to and from these distant neigh- bors. Each had to plan as best it might with the slender means at hand f^r bodily comJort, knowing that fuel w£S scarce — it is net strange that spring see.ied an age ahead. Is it any wonder, considering the surroundings, that the prairie mother carefully cleaned and pol- ished her kerosene lamps, so that when the win- dow shades were drawn for the long winter even- ings, the lamps might to the best of their feeble ability, carry into the night a little of the cheer which fading of daylight had taken away. 31 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP One of the fondest hopes for the future of the new home was that the prospective railroad would pass near it. How little can anyone who has never known by personal experience the slow development of an isolated home, realize the joy brought by the news that trains would pass by it. To the small beys of the neighbor- hood, the announcement was the most stagger- ing thing they had ever heard. When in due time the surveying party appeared on the eastern horizon, the urchins cam.e near exploding with excitement. They breathlessly watched the surveyor set up the shining instrum.ent on three wooden legs, after which he gave directions to other men who went on ahead, and drove a line of new pine stakes in the short prairie grass. To the boys, these stakes looked as big as telegraph poles — so highly keyed was the imagination. Soon the construction work was under way, and it seemed strange to watch the grading gangs pitch their camp — then build the low embank- ment over the prairie, and make the high fills to 32 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS carry the track across the draws. Over the un- broken ground, where even a row of fenceposts made a decided change in the landscape, this new earth bed ready for the cress ties and rails, made it seem that pioneer days would end with the first train. One day, we, legal disciples of the little white school house a quarter of a mile from the scene of activity, heard a whistle far down the line cf the new grade. The thrill it created has never been equalled since. We knew it was the en- gine of the construction train approaching from the east. It was not yet visible, but favorable conditions of the air had wafted the melodious and wel- come sound to us. One of our number, how- ever, had been to the county seat some miles east; and while we listened eagerly and envious- ly, he told of seeing ties and rails placed on the embankment; and how the supply train followed closely over the track just laid. Before many days the spectacle advanced into our territory; then on beyond, and out of sight, 33 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP so that in due time the "cars" passed daily on schedule. Thus we became saturated with civ- ilization, and wondered what our stage driver would do for a living. Perhaps they would let him become an engineer. For a time, the sight of a column of smoke in either direction where the read faded into the horizon, was the signal fur boys within half a mile of the track, to get in action and be "close up" to watch that majestic train cf three small coaches go thundering by. This caused the prai- rie mothers concern, because somie of the more risky urchins got into the habit cf standing quite close to the track, showing others how utterly in- different they were to such dangers. Striking an average of it, the prairie was an exceptionally good nursery for children, regard- less of sex. The mother need worry little for their safety when she turned them out to grass. Freedom of play was not hampered by fear of wild animals and reptiles, or dark woods to swal- low them up. The air was a health-giving one, excelled by no other under the sun. Coming for 34 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS miles over a sea of wild grasses, and filtered all the way by bright sunlight, those boisterous and fitful breezes gave the double cress to all germ creation. For the winter months, it was a problem of isolation as before stated. When the blizzards raged, providing pastimes for the children and keeping them fromi killing each other, kept the prairie micther on the alert. Since there were no laws in those days limiting the hours of labor for womien, she could stay on the job from dawn to bedtim^e without fear of prosecution. Possi- bly she had less tin e to get lonesom.e or indulge in longing thoughts for her old home than in more inviting see sons cf the year. A year in childhood — that is a long time; and a childhood winter on the bleak, new prairie was long — very long. It it little wonder that the budding days of ear- ly spring were times of joy. It was as a release after long imprisonment. Then it was that the sun, moon and stars all seemed to move in or- bits planned for our own piece of grass covered 35 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP world. It seemed like the universe was young with us each spring, and joined us in investigat- ing the mysteries of the green prairie. We awoke each morning in a new world. In the long night's sleep, all griefs of the day before had faded from the plastic brain. Each day com- menced with a clean slate. It is easy to tell tales cf boyhood days, but to go back in memory and try to put yourself into the world cf thought in which you lived when a child, is a task accomplished by few. If it were an easier one, or at least attempted mere earnest- ly by these who have boys and girls to govern, the result iright be of benefit to both sides in the case. There are some who cannot even put them- selves back in thought to the day they turned twenty-one. When some elderly one remarks that there seems to be a lot of extremely young married couples nowadays, the chances are that if you look up his record, it will show him to have been a very youthful bridegroom himself. The only way to convince him, would be to show 36 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS the old family photograph album. Take him back to the beginning, just as you would hunt up the colonial settlement period in the old school history of the United States. Show the doubter the old fashioned picture of himself at the ages of from three to five, hold- ing as little resemblance to his mature and elder- ly self of t^day, as some vegetable growth in its early stage cf development, dees to the ripened product. Then bring him on page by page thru the album, and watch for that silly look which comes when he views himse-f in all the glory cf a wedding suit. But when the child studies the old family pic- torial record, he sees everything from the other end of the line, so to speak. To study the pic- tures of aunt Matilda and uncle Hezekiah, was almost enough to make one swallow the whole doctrine of evolution. The seven ages of man, indeed ! We tried hard to imagine what aunt and uncle were like in the dim, shadowy days, when dressed in the fashions of those times, the daguerreotyper took 37 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP them for his victims. How we would like to have had them for playmates. Jolly as they were in mature years, at ten they must have been leaders in everything worth while. Reflecting on that point now, from an age where gray streaks the hair, it seems possible that aunt and uncle may have been only normal children after all when the old fashioned photo- graph was made. Their youthful days do not seem so wonderful now, since we have passed thru it all in our own existance. But in child- hood, when we knew only that one small world, it was too great a strain on the imagination to put a grown-up back in our class. As for grandmother and grandfather, the da- guerreotype did net reach quite back to their five or ten year days; and it was simply impossible to imagine them as ever being so small. They told us stories of their juvenile days, but it all seemed vague and unreal. So it was that mornings came to children out in the open sea of new land. Always an expect- ancy and a forgetfulness of the day before. A 38 "To the east— at the end of the dam, and framed in a bower of trees — the mill stood ma'estic and imposing." -page 38 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS broken toy might be a reminder of yesterday's trouble, but even that had lost its sting. The grown-ups told us of new pleasures we might find that day. Just for today was enough. Liv- ing one day at a time, the weeks passed by, mak- ing up the long year cf childhood. In after years, it comes to mcst of us that the simple pleasures were greatest. What would you pay now, f^r som^ething which would give the thrill your Christmas stocking did in childhood ? Someone has well said that the attempt to explain an empty stocking to a child, is one of mother- hood's greatest tragedies. It causes the blackest hour in many a hom^e of the poor. When in boyhood days we went, in the seventh heaven of joy, for a holiday with the uncles and aunts or the grandparents, the thought never came to us that there might be apprehensive cor- diality in the smiling welcome they gave. As we greet our own young hopeful relatives now, there is, mixed with the pleasure of seeing them a sort of speculative wonder as to what wiU happen out of the ordinary. 39 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP "Out to old aunt Mary's." Did she ever have a thought of what new prank might be put into execution by the boys who so eagerly trudged along the road in old Indiana ? If she did, the immortal Riley kept her secret. The reader might inquire why — if this chap- ter is supposed to be devoted to the mothers who did a full share in homestead days — why do you take so much space in telling about other mem- bers of the family, and dwell on trials and tribu- lations of the children ? This is done to put the chapter in a form that might suit those mothers, were they living today. Their interest was so taken in the affairs of the children, sisters and brothers, father and mother, that little thought went to any particular desire of their own. They lived the home life in that old fashioned way. In all that came with the round of childhood's year, the prairie mother was the leading spirit. She helped "make believe" when toys were few, and snow was drifting in long, sweeping gusts. She bundled them up for the long, cold walk to 40 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS school — her heart aching as she watched them trudging along the dreary roads; their frail little bodies pierced by the cold wind, and the noon- day lunch in their tin dinner pails freezing into chunks on the way. Two miles is a long way for a small child to walk under such conditions, arriving chilled thru at a school building which would have passed creditably for a cold storage warehouse. Some- times they reached it sobbing and trembling with cold; then ate a frozen lunch at noon. No very pleasant memory comies cf it today. To go a full term and not miss a day — what a task fcr a country child ! Yet all the long walks to schcol were not like this. There were dreamy, hazy days of fall when no better exercise could have been invented for them. Again, on some of those spring days, when the wild flowers along the road just had to be gathered, it proved that the students practic- ed self denial, else they would never have reach- ed the school house at all. They covered the teachers desk with flowers, and in the goodness 41 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP of her heart, she overlcx^ked much. Probably she realized that her pupils would be more tract- able as a result of their morning exercise. In recalling lonely times and some of the hard- ships of the prairie mother's life, it must not be taken that her days were all privation and sor- row. Far from it. Since there is so frequently more pleasure in anticipation than in realization, she was always living with the thought of better days to cone. When one looks at a desert, and ponders over the dreary waste of sand, with its official and exclusive badge — sage brush — there is a feeling of depression, coming from thought of the worth- less past and future of the silent expanse. But in viewing a stretch of prairie, the idea is an en- tirely different one — at least if it is to be the fu- ture home. Nothing but grass may lie as far as the eye can see; but knowledge of the land's future worth, gives an entirely different feeling in the sense of possession. It may not be like the "spell" the desert silence causes in some people, but it is a 42 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS normal feeling, and does not breed lunatics. A Nebraska homesteader had other things to think about in idle moments. Thus the prairie mother had a vision of the future to console her for what the new home lacked, compared with the old. As soon as two or three crops were harvested, there would be the new house. The cottonwcods were growing, and the family talked of the beauty of home sur- roundings, when foliage would protect it from winter stor.n and shade from summ^er sun. Year by year as the desired conveniences were added to the home, and little journeys into the outside world came to be more numierous, it is possible that her lot was a happier one than she realized. As far as isolation gees, it may be that the prairie mother was no more isolated in the true sense of the word, than many city mothers of to- day. These, cooped up in a flat, are surround- ed by a lonesome wilderness of strange cold faces on every side. Their concern for the physical safety of the children is increased, and the moral 43 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP safety as well. And now comes the landlord with a new kind of concern. It is manifested by the sign,- "No Children," There never was better society invented than that cf freeningling cf children and inhabitants of the barnyard. None of the animals in the combinaticn, unless it be a kicking mule, have bad habits to teach wiling young pupils. While the mother cou]d see her neighbors homes a long distance over the prairie, visiting days were sometimes far between; and no one seemed to dream that it would ever be other- wise. The present generation cannot quite get the idea. Life without the telephone and auto- mobile, is ancient history to the majority. They know nothing about staying st home because the "horses were too tired." During the early spring and summer months, the teams really did need all rest possible; and a man was considered a bad citizen if he used them for idle pleasure trips after the day's work. Thus visiting on Sunday began to undermine the housewife's peace of mind. At first, it came as 44 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS a real relief from the lonesomeness of the long week. Then as crops began to bring a little pros- perity, the Sunday dinner degenerated into a feast day, making it the hardest one of the week for mother officiating as chief cook. Visiting the sick on Sunday also fell from its pedestal of high purpose, and became a menace to the afflicted one. If he lived thru the excite- ment of a Sunday afternoon party held in his honor, it wes a good sign that he was on the mend. Otherwise, it would have killed him. Please understand that the reference is not to any- thing which the mothers did in ways to help the afflicted, but to thwSe gatherings of neighbors, calling to pay their respects, and remaining to visit each other. When the time for departure came, there were too many who could have truth- fully said, "we have had a very pleasant time." That night, the patient was closely watched for symptoms of a relapse. Once in a while there would be visits from those of blood and kin back in the old home. The joy and eager anticipation the news of their 45 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP coming gave mother and her little brood, made the world all over again. How the days flew by after they arrived, until the two weeks or so dwindled to one day, tinged with sadness. At the last meal things didn't taste right, for that strange and unhappy sense of renewed separation for a long time, hung heavy on the heart. Then the good bye as the train pulls in. Even the sound of the whistle and bell seems different on this day; and to the one who is carried down the line— every conductor's "all abcard," has its pang for someone, and every car window has had its mist of tears. In due tine also came the day for the prairie mother's departure on a journey back to the old home of girlhood. Though she had eagerly count- ed the days yet remaining, her mind was filled with details of arrangements for the comfort of those to be left behind. Back among old friends and scenes, she found pleasure; but she also found that while the hills and woods were good to see again, ties of the new home had woven their irresistible spell. A 46 THE KEEPER OF THE LAMPS new sense of things, as related to the old home, came to her realization; and when the day came for the return trip, there was a feeling of thank- fulness f jr her responsibilities. She had beccme a genuine resident of Nebraska's prairie. Today, the native grasses which once lay for miles over our level county, are hard to find. Some of our country cemeteries are yet covered with it. Who knows whether or not the mothers of that day now at rest, would ask that this prai- rie grass might be left around their resting places for all time. 47 I never set eyes on a clover field now, Er fool round a stable, er climb in the mow; But my childhood comes back just as clear and as plain As the smell of the clover I'm sniff in' again; And 1 wander avv'ay in a bare^footed dream, Where 1 tangle my toes in the blossoms that gleam With the dew of dawn of the miorning of love Ere it wept o'er the graves I'm weepin' above. And so 1 love clover — it seems like a part Of the sacredest sorrows and joys of my heart. —RILEY. IV THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE In the early days of the plains, the court house square was indeed the center of the county. It might lack something geographically, of being in that position; but the pioneers made it a common center for many things. "On the east side of the square," "The south- west corner of the square," were easy ways of describing the location of places of business. To locate a store or office at a point beyond sight of the square, was to a great extent getting off the line of travel. A row of hitching posts stood along each side like sentinels. Here, the farmer tied his team, when the trip to town was only for a short stay. For his business errands, he did not care to go 49 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP unnecessarily far from his rig. He wished to keep an eye on his horses, and see that nothing in the wagon was disturbed. For these and similar reasons, hitching on side streets and vacant lots did not appeal to him. He could go around and around the square, if it is possible to go around anything which is square; and yet keep in close touch with his locomotive apparatus. Let it be whispered softly, that the conven- ience of this method compelled many a poor horse to stand too long. By the tiiiie the homeward journey began, it was a hungry team that saw the miles lay long ahead of it, with oats and hay at the other end cf the route. The value of business locations "on the square," was early seen. In effect, it seemed that all who had wares to sell, wanted their signs hung where the farmer could study them while tying his team. Those who laid out the town, probably thought its growth ought to cease at a square full. I saw the old place a few months ago. There was the same courthouse which awed "us kids," 50 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE with the splendor of its architecture, when it was built in the early eighties and overtopped everything around the square at the time. The Capitol at Washington could not have impressed us more profoundly. Especially when we went into the county treas- urer's office with father, and looked around pop- eyed in wonder, while he paid his annual taxes. To us, the rooms were splendid as marble hells; and we gazed in facinated awe at the treasurer himself. He lived on a farm before he was elect- ed to this exalted position. We had seen him wearing old farm clothes, and remembered with pride in the thought, that he once helped us thresh. To see him now — all dressed up and so courtly looking — well, it proved that a farmer could get to be somebody once in a while. Father tried to be sociable with him for old times sake; but he upheld the dignity of the of- fice splendidly, and only let the humble tax payer have enough smiles to insure his vote at the next election. In those days, ex-farmers tried to for- get their rural past. 51 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP The resemblance to the old-time square ends with the building in the center. The streets surrounding the lawn are excellently paved, with neat cement curbing. Where that line of hitch- ing posts could have stood, there is no telling. But now, things are more formal. The cotton- woods which in years past gave such enjoyable shade and picturesque setting for the courthouse, are gone root and branch. This makes the old timers heave a sigh; for the cottonwoods had a warm place in their hearts, which the present generation has not inherited. In place cf these old trees, on what is now a reg- ulation lawn, small ones of an aristocratic breed are arranged in perfect order. The commission- ers, no doubt, had a surveyor lay out the rows according tw Hoy.e. But again by the law of contrast, I can bring up a vision of the old square of nearly forty years ago. The passing of an elderly man in a shining automobile helped; for in a flash I saw this man who guided the car with such dignity and grace, and withal such a look of prosperous ease on his S2 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE countenance — I saw this distinguished citizen coming into town on another occasion. The outfit he commanded on that day was at par with the square in its general appearance. The rain had been generous during a preceding week of August. The unpaved streets were but masses of black mud, chopped up fine by those narrow-tired wagons. Restless horses fightirg flies had lowered the dirt ar the hitching pcste, so that the teairs now stocd in water nearly ankle deep ail along the lines. Since the rains had temporarily stopped farm work, there was a full house in town. Hitching space was at premiun:, especially so because it was Saturday. At that ti ne the honor of riding to town in a new wagon, resplendent with gor- geous colors, was sufficient for one day. A"spring seat" had become by general custom of the ve- hicle makers, a part of every new wagon. Now and then a farmer who was utterly extravagant and heedless of possible coming to want in his old age, would buy an extra seat so that all mem- bers of the family could ride in comfort. But 53 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP the idea of tying up two dollars and a quarter in something which could not be used every day, was frowned upon by the community. In this day of my vision, the rig had nothing new about it. The wagon gave no clue as to its original color. It spoke, however, of long years in service. It had been new at some period, no doubt, back in one of the three big Fs. They were, of course, Iowa, Illinois and Indiana — the states which furnished the majority of the set- tlers for the new county. Every hitching space around the square is tak- en; so the pioneer drives along the lines watch- ing for someone who might have finished the errands of the day, and be starting for home. He thus finds a place at last; and reaching to his limit over mud and water, ties the team. Then from the dilapidated wagon, he takes a cargo of eggs. The price at that time of year was not a present day cold storage one either. His overalls were patched, and the remainder of the costume harmonized with them. Consid- ering the outfit, driver and all, it is not difficult 54 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE to see how the wave of Populism got started. He was not poverty stricken, but over his farm hung the traditional mortgage. Even a basket of eggs at that old midsummer price, was worth bringing to town. There should be a bronze statue of the hen in every county seat on the plains. In time of crop failure she kept scratching around — laid as usual, while the farmer awaited to take the one sure to goodness product to town. It is a hard matter now, with a square sur- rounded by substantial brick buildings with dis- play windows of metropolitan appearance, to te'l of the scene to which the egg-laden agriculturist turned as he left the wagon. Talk of hollow and deceptive shams — those wooden store buildings with the exceedingly elaborate box-fronts looked it when seen from the alley. And the sidewalks in front of them — little like the broad uniform cement there now. Surely the old days are gone. Did the elderly, prosperous-looking man in ths touring car happen to think of it as he passed the square ? Would he have recognized the young 55 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP. man with patched overalls and rickety wagon? Would he bring a basket of eggs to town in that car? Perhaps so, for he made his money at- tending to the small details well. During the half century of its history, our courthouse square has been a most orderly spot. No saloon ever flaunted its brazen sign there to the homesteaders or their descendents. No riot has ever blackened its name. The nearest we ever came to a riot, was when some of those enterprising, build-up-our-towners expostulated against removal of the hitching-pcsts from the square — a proposition which was prob- ably fought in every county of the state. In those days the degree to which one was ru- ral, was settled mostly by the distance he lived from town. If only a mile or two out, he did not seem so hopelessly countrified as the fellow a dozen miles away. At least that was the idea the boys had on the subject. There was little in the early life to make exciting experiences for the prairie children. They had happiness after a fashion, but there was scant material for liter- 56 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE ature relating to the country. Riley could not have been suppressed, had he been born in any other state than Indiana; but on the plains, his ingenuity would have been sorely taxed. It is one thing to recall in memory a picture of days long past, and another to put it in words so that others may see it in something like the same perspective and colcring. To put down the routine of our daily lives on the peaceful prairie, and give to the tale "literary readableness," takes ingenuity somewhat like that cf the housewife, who at times must plan appetizing meals from a limited variety of materials. There were no Indians nor vicious animals to furnish themes for stories of narrow escapes. We never had to dodge anything more dangerous than lightning-rod agents in the way of varmints. There was none of the silent romance of the desert to give a halo. Even had moving pictures been an institution at the time, a thousand foot reel would have been about all necessary to sup- ply public demand. The western pictures which make the film companies rich, are not staged on 57 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP prairie of the prosaic type. It has been said that the bible and the shotgun went side by side in western settlement. Eastern Nebraska had both, but the shotgun was used for peaceful purposes only — if increasing the speed of the elusive and l\ frolicsome jack rabbit, can be so classed. Yes, the old courthouse square is gone. There is one now, occupying the same place the old one had; but it is nothing like the one where we country boys tied our teams so long ago. While of the old days and the old square, there are a number of pleasant memories, this is not an old man's sigh for the "good old times." It is a new and better square now; where the comfort and convenience of things over that level land, is we 1 shown by the new dress of the county seat. It all comes from the harvest of those same level acres; for no factory smoke darkens the sky. The gifts of sun and rain, make the measure of wealth from year to year. It is a mighty strange thing, that the shrink- age of wooden buildings by age has never excited comment. Are all the learned professors napping ? 58 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE Many years ago on the main street leading from the square, the well-to-do had built mansions of wood. When the country boy passed along that street on his way into town, he was much awed by those imposing structures, and envied the people who lived therein. It seemed that they lived in a higher world than ordinary folks out in the country. With no chores to do at night or morning, no coarse work clothes to wear, and buying everything to eat at the stores, — cer- tainly they must be free from all care and drudg- ery. That would be better than Sunday seven days a week on the farm; for the cows had to be milked every old day. Once in a while a carriage load from one of the stately residences, would come to the country for a day's visit. It seemed to the urchins at the farm like a day with royalty. The carriage bob- bed up and down so softly when they tried the springs. The "livery" team's light harness was so much nicer than the heavy sets which the farm horses wore. Our childish hearts longed for the glitter of new things. 59 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP It must surely seem to those city folks that the country home was very plain in comparison to the splendor of theirs on the leading street in town. But they heartily approved of mother's dinner. The way they ate it, and complimented the cook, left no doubts. This fact proved them to be mortal, and the gulf between us did not appear so great. But a stange thing has happened — discovered while strolling over the little city and studying landmarks near the square. These mansions which so awed the boys back in the eighties, have dwindled to about one-third their original size — all due to the shrinkage of the lumber, no doubt. No part of them has been taken away. Every fancy porch and scroll-piece is there; but all so small and commonplace compared with the modern houses around them. "When dreams come true." There was a boy- hood dream, of living some day in one of those places. Just now, it dees not seem that living there would be the fulfillment of a dream worth telling about. 60 M B o ^ 00 Do yo oking ade in 1 r. P C ^ rr^ -s — • _ 0) . trt <-t i4 hli o o »» cr p •N.3,£^ n- 00^3- O o o o --.o -o "^J^-^ ^ S ^ c o'r^ o ^ -^ §^^ -^^ ^ — •13 --. n) ^ w Q- b "-" o rj t/j THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE In the day of the square with box-front stores, there was a wider gulf socially between the far- mer and merchant, than exists today. When the man close to nature tied his team at the row of hitching posts, and went in with his butter and eggs, he sometimes cringed a little as he steed before the august presence; and was grateful for any little inquiry concerning the welfare of the family at home. Nowadays, the farmer's car glides up to the door, and his women folks alight as unconcerned as you please. Cream and eggs have an indepen- dent market elsewhere, and are a small factor in trade with the stores. The merchant knows the t the farmer will buy where he pleases. At the bank, he dees net now enter like his trial by judge and jury was in progress, with a good chance for conviction. In many cases he is a director in the institution. More than that, he may be actually living in the county seat — what time he is not in California. But he still passes as a farmer, and does not wish to be called anything else. Thirty years ago, though — it was 61 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP different. The change in his relation with the merchant has to some extent been caused by the explosion of a fallicy of the olden days. In the beginning, the home merchant waxed eloquent in describing the beauties and benefits of the "Buy it at home" plan. The farmer who dared to buy anything anywhere but in the town nearest which he lived, or who ordered anything from places outside, was held up as a horrible example of the kind of man who didn't care a bit whether or not the home town amounted to a bag of shucks. But after a while the rural folks no- ticed this fact: The storekeeper in the town of five hundred went to the county seat to do much of his own family trading, where more of a variety could be had. The merchant at the county seat, went to the state capitol with his family to do buying cf their private family clothing; and the Lincoln merchant's wife went to Chicago for hers. All that phenomenon among the "Build up our town" folks, set the plodder in the fields to thinking; and a new light came to him. 62 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE This illumination showed him clearly that the ones who gave him such wonderful home-buying arguments, were not in business for health's sake or to build up the town. They were there to get every dollar which could be gotten out. When one of them prospered, he did not stay to help said home town any longer, but sold out and went to California or some other congenial clime. No more sleepless nights worrying about the welfare of the old town for him. So the farmer began to buy in Chicago also, and the home merchant gnashed his teeth — his own teeth, or store teeth at least — not the far- mer's. But the farmer's course proved best fcr the town and county in the long run. It placed everything on a business basis. There are excellent stores around the square today. The owners realize that they must make it a business proposition; and sell goods at a price which will allow the farmer to buy consistently at home. As a result, these county seats are "building up," on sound principles. It is a sure sign of a weak town when the " Buy it at home" 63 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP wail must be used to get customers. A few min- utes study of local advertising in the county pa- pers will usually tell whether or not a bimch of dead ones is soliciting patronage. When electric arc lights were placed on the court house tower, it brought the very latest civ- ilization had to offer, right into our midst. If the wise men of the east who saw the new star and its halo, were more impressed by it than we youngsters were by those arc lights, they marvel- ed greatly indeed. It was so different from the light of kerosene lamps, our only standard for comparison. When at night we were so fortunate as to attend a pc- litical rally or celebration of some sort, the pub- lic square seemed a sort of dreamland with light of a strange and unearthly lustre; giving a new complexion to old friends we met there. Those trips to the county seat were always looked forward to with eagerness. Nothing dim- med the splendor until — probably it was the first excursion to the state fair which gave us the nerve to walk about the square with our heads 64 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE higher, and less feeling of awe gnawing at our vitals. On second thought, it seems more prob- able that hunger was disturbing the vitals; for a boy never went anywhere, who did not get hun- gry the first thing, no matter how well he had been fed a few hours previously. Once in a while the prairie lad tired of good, sensible grub. Arrived in town for the day, a dinner of bakery goods so te'T-ptingly displayed in the windows, see ned all that was necessary to complete a glorious occasion. Long before sup- per time — wonder indeed — a delusion came, in which it appeared that the noonday lunch had been merely a dream. The stomach called for its regular diet, and nothing in all the bakery dis- play could arouse its enthusiasm. On. the way home that night, the boy who had so eagerly anticipated the feast of floury products, reflected on the stability of home cooking. At that time, he had heard nothing concerning the science of balanced rations. And now in these after years, when the shabby cooking in some hotel or restaurant make him pause and heave a 65 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP sigh, there comes a grim smile at the thought of his boyish dissatisfaction with things good and wholesome at home. Long before this, it would seem that the last word had been written about circus day. Stories of it have been a fad in the popular magazines, for the last ten years. Circus day— one of the things which not only was — but still is. It hrs simply kept pace with change in the times. The up-to-date show, matches the new county seat. None of the interest which it awakened, when we drove a dozen or twenty miles in wagons to see one ring of it, has been lest in the change to automobiles and three rings of the same old cir- cus with added attractions. But the great annual event certainly meant a day of wonder to homes far from town. Diver- sions were so few then, that it could not be oth- erwise. Thus "going to take the children," was as popular an excuse then as it is now, and ever will be. One could not arise early enough these circus day mornings to see the first wagons speed- ing over the level prairie roads, for the reason 66 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE that the first rigs went by before daylight. It was to be the whole day in town or nothing, for those early birds; and there was a worm to catch also — a suitable place to leave the team. Lucky was the man with friends in town, who had a barn where he might put the team; for public facilities would be badly crowded. Did you ever see a livery stable on circus day ? If these rambling chapters were to be read by farmers — now elderly — who lived on the prairie for the main working period of their lives, only a small per cent would be found reading under the light cf the kerosene lamp. The majority cf them have either "gone to town" to live in some little city of from five to ten thousand inhabitants, with which these prairie states abound, or have gone to Calif urnia to spend their declining years; and, believe me, the first thing their wives ditch- ed when packing for the move, was the kerosene lamp. The everlasting bother of filling them and cleaning chimneys was to be over at last. Southern California owes much of its prosperi- ty to the colonies of ex-prairie men who camiC 67 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP bringing with them the wherewith to live for the remainder of their days. Someone has said that the prairie country has been, practically, but the camping ground of thousands coming from states east of the Mississippi, hoping to reach the Pacific coast. There is more truth in the assertion than many would care to admit; but they camped on the grassy plains long enough to raise their fami- lies, and accumulate a setting of nest eggs for old age. The soil they tilled, should have full cred- it for its part. A look over the lists of real estate transfers in some of those counties, will show it to be getting this credit. To state the true inwardness of why the pio- neer fathers of these cottonwocd-bordered farms, took refuge in California after their retirement from active duties, compels us to whisper another reason. Naturally, soft climate of the coast was soothing to the ailments acquired during strenu- ous years; but this other reason hinted at was — they had to go out there, to get rid of the boys and a son-in-law or two. These pesky kids, — now full-fledged and in active control of father's 68 THE COURT HOUSE SQUARE farms, persisted in routing the old gentlemen out in harvest, and at all times when extra help was needed; and sometimes when it was not needed. These fathers had "retired," and must uphold the dignity of their retirement; so what else was there for them to do, but go far over the Rocky ranges. After that, all the precaution needed, was to time their visits to miss the rush days cf harvest or planting. In the winter sunshine of California or Florida today, can be seen little groups cf elderly men in small parks where seats are plentiful, or in the corner where horse shoes ring against the stake. To one raised among the-n, long before their present easy days began, the identification comes quickly. There is a touch of sadness to it, de- spite the comfort of palms and sea breezes; for as they talk together, there is a wistf ulness and some times a little sigh, as they tell tales of old days when they drove to the now far away county seat, and tied their teams at that central point for all exchanges — the courthouse square. 69 V EVENING PEACE IN THE FIELDS The peace of evening in the fields,— it is hard to describe, but it is there — a distinctive kind and quality; and it comes after a long day's work is done. It must be seen and felt to be appreciat- ed. Did you ever, after plowing all day, go back to the field after supper on some repair errand, or for your ccat or other article forgotten? It was just as the sun was ready to sink below the horizon, a gold and red disk with nearly all pow- er of heat gone. The rays stifled by their long slanting journey through the dust-laden lower air. It is the same sun whose heat at noon was almost unbearable; but it cannot cast even a shadow now although it sinks in a sky free from cloud. The team is in the barn, eating their well earned supper. The plow stands by the last fur- row, polished like a mirror by friction of the 71 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP turning and sliding soil. One knew what end- less trouble it made to let rust gather on the mould board by carelessness. In the silence at sundown— without horses in their places ahead of the plow, there is a strange- ness in the scene which gives the idea that all things of the field are at rest — that the peace of evening has come there, as to the living things about it. The furrow which was followed dur- ing hours of sunshine, seems long and unfamiliar in the soft light. It would be rather lonesome to follow around the "land "again. Thru the stillness come faint sounds from our neighbors farms, all telling of chore-tim.e. Then, floating over the fields, comes the benediction to close of day — the meadow lark's sunset song — sweetest carol of all the prairie. It was a joyous greeting to the sun and new day, that he sang in the morning, as the horses settled against their collars for the first round. The dew is falling, and the furrows fade into the dusk. Thru the grove of young cotton woods comes a gleam of light from a window. Someone has 72 , EVENING PEACE IN THE FIELDS lighted the kerosene lamp, and for an hour or two the peace of evening will be transferred from the fields to a room where stillness is broken only by the ticking of the clock, and faint echoes from the barnyards. Many a youth has fancied that life was rather quiet at such a time. Later on in life, with the roar of the city in their ears, and some of the grind of it racking their nerves, these same boys have had visions of the peace cf evening in the fields long ago. They talk cf it, and tell the glo- ries of it, and how they are going back to it some day; but when we ask who ever went back, echo answers—^ Who"? The variety of prairie peace under discussion, might vary with the time of year. During the weltering days of July and August, it was chang- ed from the sunset hour to that before dawn; for with the steady wearing strain of mosquitoes and flies, there was no peace for either man or beast at sundown. To arise just before the glow began to tint the eastern sky, and go out to see stock enjoying a brief respite from those miserable in- 73 UNDER THE ICEROSENE LAMP sect pests, took away all pleasure of seeing the sunrise which would usher in another blistering, scorching day. It was the peace of early mcrn- ing and the quiet, starry sky seemed a mcst de- lectable thing. "Under the stars," — what an expression, with which to conjure. Kow many literary stunts it has helped those to pull off, who, wise to tricks of the trade — arrange a little scene in nature and put over it a mantle of, "Under the stars." But their scenes must be staged in the open country, to get the full effect. It takes the whole domie cf sky to complete the setting. Thus it came about that under the Nebraska sky, when all working conditions were right, some cf the mcst beauti- ful moonlight nights on the face of the earth came to us at times; and some of the softest and gentlest night breezes that ever stirred a wild rose petal, wafted the scent over our fields. To draw in detail the nearly treeless prairie as it was in early days, — the skies with a great va- riety of cloud formations in spring or summer, and beautiful tints in autumn, must be brought 74 EVENING PEACE IN THE FIELDS in to give perspective. In a room bare of furni- ture, if the walls are of pleasing color and taste- fully decorated, the place seems half way home- like; and if a carpet in harmony is placed on the floor, little else is needed. In this way, natures's forces turned the miles of prairie into a vast room of colors every spring. Beautiful cloud forirs decorated the sky, and a carpet cf short, but rich grass covered the great floors of fertile virgin S3il. Days there were when we seemed but pigmies in a palace of boundless dimensions. During the fall, after frosts had withered the carpet, the sky walls had for a time tints beyond compare. If the colors of October and November sunrises and sunsets could be put on the artist's canvas without the least exaggeration, and then shown to some of the stay-at-homes in eastern states, it would be labor lost. For who of them would believe that gorgeous coloring to be possi- ble in Natures art gallery — the sky. These vivid tints of sky and fringe of cloud, are the wonder and delight of the stranger who views Nebraska or Kansas sunsets for the first time. 75 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP But from December to February inclusive, it did take a strong imagination to get beauty from the materials at hand, excepting when some out of season freak presented itself. It was not until some spring-like day in March that it was worth while to look for anything of much interest in the sky. In late March or early April, pleasures came in watching the clouds of overdue winter storms change into fleecy, floating clouds of spring as the stor.n exhausts its force and the resistless rays of the sun, now high in the heavens, takes the wintry-like aspect away when the north wind dies down. But spring-like days do not make spring; and it was not until one felt that winter's last effort had been squelched, that inexpressable satisfac- tion came in watching the fitful skies. That afternoon sunshine of a spring day on the prairie. Let us see — yes, it was late April; al- most time for preparation of those little baskets^ to be filled with such simple flowers as could be found, and hung on the doorknobs by stealthy and crafty youngsters. For several days an end- 76 EVENING PEACE IN THE FIELDS less army of clouds had been driving out of the north. They gave us first, heavy, rolling mists. Then showers of cold rain; and as the tempera- ture dropped a little lower, a blinding flurry of big snowflakes, melting as they struck the newly plowed fields and pastures, now showing green. Springlike days had come in goodly number, and days which almost scorched with the heat of sum- mer. Days, "When early March seemed middle May," as Riley puts it. We enjoyed them, and spring work went on; but we knew full well that in the north there yet lurked unpleasant possibil- ities. We must have our spring blizzards, built on the same general plan as those of winter, but mild in comparison. Now, the big flakes begin to spread a coating over the evidences of incipient spring. There is white over the new green, and things look dreary around the barnyards. Everybody is housed up; but there is a satisfying thought. All knew the storm would fade away so rapidly when the wind died down, that spring's return wotld be a tri- imiphant and glorious affair. 77 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP So when the clouds began to break at noon of the last day, the sun was on the job in less time than it takes to tell the story. Before it sank be- yond the horizon that night, the new grass after its snow bath looked brighter than ever, in con- trast against the deep black soil of freshly mois- tened fields. And these lazy, floating clouds of spring, which tock the sunset tints that night — there was something reassuring in then?. It wrs as if they said, "Its all over now; we'll stay this time." Spring was enthroned, and the shouting frogs told their joy .by moonlight. Evening peace in the fields — yes, it would take many pages to tell of the sunset hour, as seasons came and went. You — who knew toil under the blistering sun, years ago, get a kerosene lamp of the kind you rested by after chores were done. Memory may give to you many pleasing pictures of inanimate things at rest. 78 VI FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY That was Henry Blank's new buggy. All over the United States, for that matter, a young man s possession of such a vehicle was regarded as more or less of a sign of interest in the fair sex. But in Henry's case, knowing him as they did, the neighbors were quick to fathom the secret of a very extraordinary purchase. He had paid but little attention to the girls during the twenty-eight years of his existence. Living at h3me, his activities had centered on the accumulation of horses, cattle and hogs, and other personal property of the farm. Recently another, "place," had been added to his father's possessions. Some of the ever present wiseacres of the community, had lost no time in telling the son that he ought to, "get him a woman," and move over to the new farm. 79 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Now farming is an occupation which particu- larly requires a "woman," for the success of var- ious operations carried on. Therefore, a large per cent of rural marriages are for a definite and practical purpose. The lord and master of the farm must have a wife for cook, housekeeper, saiall chore hand, and sometimes general rousta- bout or far v janitor. Owing to his past indifference in social mat- ters, especially where the girls were concerned, Henry knew that his appearance in the new bug- gy, wouid be taken as a public announcement of his candidacy, or a declaration of intentions. As he drove into town, and tied his horse to a hitch- ing post on the main street, all effort went toward maintaining an unconcerned countenance. But when he saw several local gossips standing in front of a grocery store, and felt the influence of their clear penetrating gaze, he heartily and fer- vently wished that it were possible to carry out his plans, without the publicity which would come now with every move. Certain unwritten rural rules almost frightened him. 80 k FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY For in the country town of that time, there was a prescribed course of conduct for young "couples." They must while, "going together," attend the sociables, icecream suppers and enter- tainments at ''haJls.*' Sunday nights, they rrust go to church some place or other, regardless as to whether either had a me:abership in any par- ticular denomination or religious convictions in general. It was not approved custom to spend the evening at the fair one's home. They must "go" somewhere, or there was little excuse fcr the young man being in her society. In stormy months, or during a lull of public and private "doings," swains cf the prairie were hard put for opportunity to meet the young ladies for whom their buggies were kept in good run- ning order. Therefore, when the minister read his list of announcements for the week at Sunday services, the "single fellows," listened with inter- est; for here was news of legal and aboveboard chances to act as escorts to whatever was on hand. They got busy, and many dates were made before the Sabbath went out on stroke of twelve. 81 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Since the churches in these days were the main gathering places for young and old, it hap- pened that many young men made a regular prac- tice of attending on Sundays, because the girls would be there. And someone has said — not the author of this profound treatise — that many of the girJs attended because the beys did so. But even if these charges could be proven, it would only illustrate the necessity for such attendance, because social affairs were so liriited. Summing up the matter cf opportunity, it can be stated that few engagements of the time failed to end in marriage. With so little chance fcr each other's company, the betrothed ones had but small excuse to tire cf each other beforehand. The stability of courtship, was helped by the stimulant of unfamiliarity. Hampered by the usual inquisitive scrutiny of the small community, many of the young people heartily wished themselves far away where af- fairs of the heart could be considered private business. Henry had a feeling of that sort as he drove into town in the new buggy. Nobody 82 I FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY knows how many of our rural young people mi- grating cityward, do so to get away from this family-like interert in their mating affairs. It was common law in the village and vicinity, that a girl obligated herself to a fellow, if she "went" with the same one more than four or five tim^es. And if she accepted his company for three months or more, it was considered a breach of good man- ners not to marry him. After that length of tin:e, it was an embarrass- ing thing to "quit." It left open the question to these who were watching, as to which one get the mitten. To some girls who felt sure that they were considered charming, it gave no concern. These figured that the community at large would take it as a part of the law of natural selection, that the ex-beau had been dismissed. In a case of this kind, the victim usually sat on the back row of seats for a time, until the audience could have time to forget him. If the young lady made her appearance with a new escort, the discarded one darkened the church door no more until a de- cent period of mourning had elapsed. 83 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Now Henry's entering the field of courtship in such an admittedly practical way, had at least a few points of superiority over some other meth- ods. The fact of his attempted late coming into female society, proved nothing against him.. He was sound of body, and free from that kind of worldly knowledge which might have given him a lessened respect for womankind. There is no denying that the new buggy with all its shining paint, gave small promise fcr a thrilling tale of love and ronance. But ccnsic- ering the bride-to-be, — well — suppcse she had married one of the dashing village beaus, whcse affections had been blighted in a dczen different "love affairs," and with pieces of his heart, fig- uratively speaking, scattered all over the county. Those who think her chances for happiness bet- ter with Henry, please raise a hand. Most any girl might wish that her knight came with more grace and inborn admiration for her sex, than did he. But between his business-like way of seeking a partner, and that of the oppo- site extreme — the country beau who prided him- 84 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY self on the number of girls he had "went with," the thoughtful girl would see the former's good points. She might, with tact, make a very sat- isfactory husband cf him; while with the "ladies man," her efforts would all have to go in shew- ing superiority over his old flames. This homely reasoning is to a certain extent given in terms of that time and place, but blunt facts are there, nevertheless. We would net rob the world cf its romance by having the youth of our land come a courting after Henry's fashion, no matter how brightly they might keep the paint shining on their buggies. But we have been greatly peeved by the perusal of long drawn and harrowing experiences of the cautious lovers in present day periodicals. Here, each primed with suspicion, and wise to all meanness to which the sex of either is prone — fights a battle of long du- ration, to find out whether either has enough good qualitias to be endurable for what little of life is left, when the long inquisition is over. After all this, knowing life for them is likely to be rather humdrum following so much excite- 85 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP ment, it is a pleasant picture to see in memory, the youthful couples who knew little of tricks in high life. The majority of country beaus, those days, certainly treated the fair sex with more re- spect, than does the modern lady-killer of the city. That idea cf establishing a home, seem_ed at least, to put a more serious note into the songs of love, with which the young farmer wooed his neighbor's daughter. For, mind you, the com- munity attended mcstly to its own marrying it that tiT^e, and very few outsiders made success- ful applications for heart and hand. It was all quite different from modern city conditions, in which the fact that a homxe must be established, too frequently makes against the marriage. Nowadays, on the flat-lined streets, youthful brides and grooms go gingerly up and down, crit- ically looking at "apartments." Sad to relate, the one selected often takes too large a portion of the young "provider's" salary. Appearances must be kept up at any price; and worst of all, a real sense of home is not there. Constant reminder of the fleetness of all things flatty, is visible from 86 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY their windows. For the moving vans are busy, transporting household furniture from flat to flat; and the young folks contract the moving fever from the restless air about them. But in the neighborhood where Flenry's new buggy shone resplendent in the sun, there was the idea of permanence in the minds of youthful couples, who mated in the good, old-fashioned way. Whether or not the wall paper and furni- ture were in perfect har nony, caused them very little concern; and the thought cf moving, was but a far away possibility. The galling part was publicity of courtship, as aforestated and described. Henry was not the only one who might feel embarrassed, when he made his debut as a young lady's escort. Girls there might be, who would have no objection to riding in the new buggy, or allowing the owner to chaperone them to local doings. But they very naturally shrank from being announced after the first appearance, as bride-to-be of Mr. H. Blank. The news would come from — on aid society aft- ernoons, the ladies exchanged ideas, and — 87 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP If, instead of Henry, it had been the young drug clerk or the "depot agent," who simply boarded at the village hotel and were considered semitransients in town, little comment would have been made. These two gentlemen would not be under the suspicion of looking for a happy home. Henry's case, however, would be too plain to fool the watchful ones who always knew, and sometimes knew when they did not know. James Lane Allen has said that every bachelor in the world, is watched by sorr.e woman. Had our near hero known of this in the first stage of his campaign, he would probably have tried to locate his self appointed guardian angel. For courting purposes only — yes, in these days the new buggy too often seemed sacred and or- dained to that mission alone. When so conse- crated, a shed was built, where this first aid to the heart-winner reposed in peace, as a reward for the part it had played in getting the owner's recently acquired bride. The wagon, now that the fair one was legally cinched for life, was plenty good enough. 88 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY The parade which some of these prairie swains had kept up so faithfully during the months pre- ceding marriage, often stopped so suddenly that it appeared like an attempt to show the neighbor- hood what a sham his social pretensions had been. It would have been ludicrous at times, if pathos of the bride's part in it, had not overshadowed the funny side. Not in all cases did such a state of affairs con:e about. Certainly not. Som^e cf those unions were the beginnings cf the happiest and best homes on earth. The fanrer's wife did net ask for diamonds. She demanded nothing in the way of luxury, tak- ing her place in building the new home, cheer- fully and uncomplainingly. But how m.any, many hardships came to her, which could have been avoided. Economy gone to seed — the last few pennies saved at such a terrible cost. If there was a difference of a cent per pound in churning the butter, or letting the local creamery attend to it, often she had it added to her duties. And it would have been considered almost a sacrilege to have considered any labor saving devices for 89 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP her kitchen. How many women today — descend- ents of those mothers, but with hot and cold wa- ter ever ready at the faucet — let a thought go back to mother's limited supply in her tea kettle and water bucket. It w^as only a natural consequence, that with toil of the farm, some of the young brides should lose their bloom. Those were strenuous days, when the calling of agriculture had little of the independence and convenience enjoyed today. So let all honor go to the me.nory of wives and mothers, who sacrificed freshness of youth and were shorn of the attractive physical qualities dear to their pride and vanity. The criticism to be made here, concerns the popular standard and belief as to the wife's call- ing and purpose in homes of that day. The set- tled opinion of the community, handed down from the preceding generation was, that a girl in taking up life in a new home, must come to show the effects of toil else she would not prove her- self a worker. This would amount to little less than a disgrace. 90 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY " I tell you that wife of Jake's is a worker," her father-in-law would exclaim, with a smile of satisfaction at thought of how her labor would bring in sheckels to the credit of the family name. As the years rolled by, and the daughter-in-law became a gaunt, homely creature, looking the part of one of the played-out farm m.achines, the old man figured out with contented chuckles what a paying investment she had been. Finally, it came to pass thst on a Sunday even- ing, Henry appeared at church with Miss Z, an estimable young lady well known for her ability as a teacher in the local schools. Community in- terest at sight of the pair, was naturally spiritec'. They were eagerly watched to see if the regulation half-dozen-times-in-public sign would comie; and when it did, the remark was current that Mary was probably going to "take a school of one pupil." For they counted her too courteous to break the established local precedent. The motive actuating this practical young man was, no doubt, one of matrimonious intent. Just what idea possessed Miss Z when accepting the 91 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP services of Mr. B as escort, cannot be stated with accuracy. But after some months had passed, it did become certain that this attractive young lady was very unconcerned, and far from appearing anxious to wed our thrifty young Henry. On his part, there was good evidence of being badly smitten. The watchful ones before mentioned, declared that he wore a worried lock; and they frankly admitted to being puzzled. For this had broken all local precedents. The prairie maiden had accepted the attentive atten- tions of Mr. B and his new buggy, nearly a year. There were no indications of an engagement — no proof of any kind of results. Now don't that beat you? But during that period of time, a gradual change had come over the Nebraska diamond-in-the-rough. Like the dull winter land- scape gradually changes under the influence of spring, into a living and interesting thing, so our Henry had blossomed out, in the sunshine of a charming girl's influence. Some of the watchful ones approached him in divers manners, and "tactfully" tried to find out 92 "At one of the almost tree-covered bridges over Lincoln creek, he made crossing." page 93 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY as to progress. He was positively noncommital, but from his manner they inferred that he also would like to be sure of positive progress in his unexpectedly slow wooing. On those perfect early summer evenings, when the valley of Lincoln creek lay bathed in the soft light of the setting sun, with all shades of green on trees and corn — with golden yellow on fields of ripening wheat — it was time to look for the young farmer. At one of the almost tree- covered bridges over the little stream, he m.ade crossing, on the road leading to the hom.e of his heart's de- sire. Possibly an hour or so later, they might be seen on the streets of York, for that horse was a traveler from"away back." At last, the watchful ones noted a change in the young man's face. It bespoke relief and hap- piness, but they could get no information in words from him. In those days, there was no heralding an engagement to the world before hand; and actual wedding invitations came only a week or two before the event. It sometimes hurried the guests to purchase presents. 93 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP So without public announcement, but with those interested all satisfied now as to the status of the pair, the matter stood awaiting proof— a wedding. More evidence came, when the watch- ful ones learned that Mary was not going to teach again the coming year. Still more, when her mother was seen selecting wall paper and paint, in early September. Only actual residents of Nebraska know whrt perfect days and nights October brings. We have "atmosphere" then. For a wedding present, this month gave the couple one of the grandest nights possible. The moonlight was so enthrall- ing, it could only have been intended for some happy event. Clouds and rain would have made much inconvenience to the guests coming over the country roads. Henry crossed the creek bridge again as the little valley lay weird and still under influence of the moon s beautiful gift. He was not in his new buggy on this great occasion, but in the family carriage with parents and brothers. It was just as well someone else was driving, for he 94 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY was in such a daze the rules of the road might have bothered him. Happy beyond expression, yet fearing the ordeal ahead. When they reached the driveway leading to the home of his soon-to-be parents-in-law, he had a wild desire to leap out and hide among the trees or in the corn. But at the same time, he knew that was the last thing he would ever do. His desire for flight came when the house suddenly flashed in full view from behind the grove. It was ablaze with light in every room — something he had never seen there before. Carriages and buggies of the neighbors and other invited guests were fairly packed around the yards, and — he gulped hard at the thought — only one hour more until he must face the host. His hand went to the vest pocket where the ring reposed, to again give assurance of its safety. They mercifully took him in at a side door. He saw the familiar faces of many as he passed a decorated arch between two rooms, and he had another sinking spell at the flashing thought of how soon he must be standing under that flower 95 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP covered half circle, with the eyes of all those rel- atives and neighbors to see his finish — at least, in his present state of mind, it seemed that the finish must surely come. But someone came just then and led him up stairs; saying a lady wanted to see him. He was gently thrust into a room — was he dreaming — with just one person in it, and that — the pretti- est girl he ever saw — Mary in her bridal dress. Woman that she was, and knowing him as she did, his state of mind had been fully anticipated. With her arms around his neck and a few words of cheer, she turned him into a man of valor. Under the arch at the appointed time he faced the multitude. His calmness kept him in won- der at himself, and also at his bride, for her power to calm him. Though every word of the ceremony came to him sharply, as a solemn thing, those vagaries in which the mind can indulge unbidden, made him notice things almost subconsciously. There sat several neighbors who looked so strange with collars and neckties on. He had not thought it 96 FOR COURTING PURPOSES ONLY possible for those men to submit to such adorn- ment, even for a wedding. He noticed small fry of the various families, with mouths wide open and breathing almost suspended, getting a first view of such a function. Just as you and I — reader — tock our first view in gaping awe. He saw also, the parents of the girl who was leaving the safe sheltering home of her girlhood for him. It was really a bold thing for him to take her from that home, and why did she con- sent to go away with him, and — " I pronounce you man and wife," ended his helpless vagaries, and he saw the neighbors trying to tear the new Mrs. Blank away from him in their eagerness to wish her much joy; and found himself saying "thank you" to congratulations. Henry was a new man. The one who started out in a new buggy to get a wife in such a mat- ter of fact way, had become fit material for a first class husband. 97 "1 wish I was a little rock A'Sitting on a hill, An' doing nothing all day long, But just a-settin' still, I wouldn't eat, I wouldn't drink, I wouldn't even wash. But set and set a thousand years, And rest myself, by gosh!" The police are searching for the miscreant who wrote the above lines. VII BASIN DAYS Tonight, as the lamp flame is adjusted for the evening, a melodious whistle comes floating far thru the still air. An Ohio river boat will make landing soon. By some sort of suggestion the tliought comes that there is a kind of family like- ness between frogs and steamboats. When the sound of the whistles die away as the river ebbs to the low stage, it reminds one of the silence of the frogs when their ponds go dry. As the riv- er begins to ' rise, first comes whistles of small packets. Then with a still deeper channel, comes the melodious boom of those announcing arrival of heavier boats, and the powerful pushers of the fleets of coal barges. In August, strolling over wide sections of its dry bed, and observing the rather narrow channel yet flowing, it seems strange to think of how soon river traffic will be floating high overhead. 99 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Along a stretch of Egyptian Nile valley where rain never falls, there are natives who will not believe that water ever falls from the sky. They point to chalk marks which have remained for centuries on old walls, as unanswerable argument for their belief. Let one of these natives be sud- denly spirited into our rrddst, when a typical American thunder storm is in progress. How would he describe it on reaching home again, allowing that fright did not kill him during the fireworks. Again, let this benighted son of the Nile, awake in our Platte river valley after long dfouth and gaze on these silent channels of sand, with small willow-covered islands everywhere. He might think this another Egypt. Small sons of the Nebraska pioneers were in many cases greatly hampered, in attempts at the water sports so dear to boyish hearts. In these early days on the plains, our horizon line was a simple and unadorned circle — so level was it at all points of the compass. To the child, wonders of the world outside must all be left to the im- agination. Monotony of the prairie gave little to 100 BASIN DAYS aid a young mind in forming comparisons with scenes in nature elsewhere. The small creeks, few in number, with some trees along the banks, were all that could help form ideas of forests and rivers far away. There was no hill to illustrate the theory of mountains. Sometimes when walk- ing up the side of a steep "draw," the boy tried to imagine it a canon cliff. There was no trace of rock in York county, so all interest in geolcgy died quite young. However, for lakes and oceans there was some- thing which assisted by a glowing fancy, helped to form a reproduction of them on a small scale. This something was the low spots on the prairie known as, "basins." With melting of winter's snow followed by the spring rains, these slight depressions became filled with water sparkling in the warm sunlight just as gloriously as a real lake. Favorable springs caused the frogs to voice their satisfaction quite early at times. By April, there was a shouting chorus of them outdoing all the sounds in nature, excepting the thunder which came with the rains. 101 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP To escape criticism of technical persons, it must be explnained that we are now aware from knowledge gained later, how toads made most of the racket. But in that day we did not know it; so as those distant spring days come back now in memory, it is all frog because we were raised that way. Such an authority as William Gibson can be quoted in calling a frog chorus the sweet- est sound in nature. Therefore no apology is needed for dwelling on it for a moment, although some will scoff. Be that as it may, the person who does not feel a strange sensation of gladness at sound of the frog*s first spring notes, deserves the pity of those more fortunate. When warm spring days came, and the frog chorus was almost incessant day or night, the basin edge became a seashore for prairie boys. True, there was no sand, and the waves did not rise very high; but other wonders abounded on every hand. There was no danger of drowning when navigating the rafts, or water-tight boxes which passed for boats. A story did go around, telling of a very large basin several miles away, 102 BASIN DAYS in which the water was three feet deep. That seemed a terrible thing, and there was a great desire to gaze on the awful depths. Those temporary lakes, had their moods like the sea. On still sunny days, they lay shining like a mirror framed in green. The water, im- less stirred up by the cattle wading in to drink, was clear, tinged with the green of growing fun- gus. It was thickly inhabited by such monsters as tadpoles, water beetles and lots of darting little fellows, whose nam.es are too hard to spell. It was like a tropical sea in miniature, and the won- ders of its animal life interested the young natu- ralists, fully as much as these of a real sea could have done in later years. The interest in living things of those basins, did not wane. After some years, the youths be- came proud owners of a powerful microscope. Then brother Tadpcle, etherized and scientific- ally tied down, became a martyr to science — or more precisely in this case — budding curiosity. But with first view of blood corpuscles gliding Indian fashion through the forest of capillary 103 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP paths, and joining the crowd again in the veins, there came a thrill at the wonder of it all which has never been forgotten. At the water's edge, cow tracks imprinted in the mud, stood full. Sometimes an unfortimate tadpole would be found swimming excitedly in one of these small pockets; landed there prob- ably by splashing of the cows as they waded in to drink. Duty then, was to put him back into the main body of water, before he perished by the wayside. It had been taught that frogs and toads were friends of the farmer, and all assist- ance given in protecting the spring crop of incip- ient croakers, would give valuable returns in the future. When later in the season, moist ground near the water was seen alive with toadlets just rid of their tails, it looked like the farm would have to be enlarged to hold them at maturity. But the law of survival of the fittest seemed to hit them pretty hard, and we had no trouble in feeding those who managed to grow up. There were other investigators around the ba- sins on those bright spring and early summer 104 BASIN DAYS days. Wild duck, snipe, blackbirds, crane and odds and ends of bird life. They came for both business and pleasure, judging from their actions. On windy days, the surface of the water was ruffled; and where a considerable stretch of it lay free from vegetable growth, small sparkling waves would roll. The murmur of wind thru thick water grass, the light lapping of water, the monotone of frogs and toads; calls cf birds at the water's edge, and of ducks bobbing serene yet vigilant at the basin s center — all under the spell of a sky filled with fleecy floating clouds, made up one of Nature's harmonies which will always linger in memory. Have you — prairie pioneer, now busy from morning to night watering the lawn of your new California home — forgotten the roadside ditches that stood full of water before our modern high- ways were built ? Here was another place for the Batrachian family to tune their voices. One might approach such a section of road, and hear a bedlam of noise ahead. At the beginning of the ditch, croaking died away. There was a si- 105 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP lent spot which moved along keeping pace with the traveler. At the rear the racket was again in full blast, closing rapidly behind the victim like water at the stern of a boat. When safely beyond it all, he knew that the sea of noise was as tranquil as if his craft had not caused a wave in passing. It is one thing to hear a few miscellaneous frogs and toads chirping at random in some favor- ite spot, and another to hear the roar of an im- numbered host. In the latter case, individuality and the individual have passed to oblivion, and the steady volume of noise comes forceful and unwavering, like a machine made product. Pos- sibly "roar," is used unadvisedly; since data is not at hand to tell just how far it can go up the scale before becoming a yell. While our land of grassy plains was rather short of water on the surface, we had an unlim- ited supply below; and never ran short during dry summers as do the eastern states in many lo- calities. We did not know anything about going to a spring branch for water, but the earth could 106 BASIN DAYS be tapped anywhere with a certainty of getting a flow for a lifetime. " Boring a well, " made a time of excitement for the youngsters. That eighty or hundred feet which the augur went down to reach gravel was like penetrating to the very center of the earth. Sight of a derrick was generally first sign that a new home was to be founded on the prairie, so one accustomed to eastern ways only might think prospecting for oil was in progress. There were no "dug" wells, excepting an oc- casional one in the creek valleys. So we had no fatalities caused by walls caving in on the exca- vators; and nobody falling in after they were fin- ished. The long slim bucket fitted the "tubing" closely, and the creaking of wheel and wooden drum was heard thruout the land. If the light was right, there was a round bright spot at the bottom, about the size of a silver dollar. It was all a thing of mystery — this looking down into unknown depths of earth. Coming of the windmill, solved our water question. There was no need of a spring branch 107 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP after that came. Laborious cranking of the drum was struck off the list of rural hardships. Noth- ing in the way of farm improvement could give the household generally more satisfaction than the new "tower" and a mill whose gaudy paint flashed in the sun. It was a day of triumph for the youngsters when the windmill agent, having finished assembling the wonder, loaded the tco's into his wagon and started back to town or his next anxiously awaiting customer. Sure there was some wrangling among neigh- borhood kids, as to the merits of the various mills owned by their respective fathers. And some jealousy was caused by a few towers higher than the others. But when one was erected over forty feet "taU," all petty strife was ended to unite against the common enemy — the boy who lived where the sky-scraper stood. In the draws " buffalo wallows, " were often found. We were told that the buffalo bunched in fly-time, and the stamping of their hoofs in the moist earth, made depressions which now stood full of water left by the temporary stream 108 BASIN DAYS coursing there after rains. Believe this or not, as you see fit. During summer they were scenes of hilarious sport, fulfilling the mission of " The old swim- min hole." M^st bathers might have preferred more sanitary conditions. But the warm, stag- nant pools splashed just as well as cleaner water could have done; and the secluded location gave entire freedom to the movements. That was — bathing costumes were utterly discarded. Running down the side of the draw and jump- ing in, created a concussion which stunned little fishes and left them floating on the surface. The bathers revived these in a bucket, and took the victims home. Here imprisoned in improvised aquariums, they lived about twenty-four hours on an average. Great indignation was caused, when the home folks told us that it was not the concussion of our violent impact with the water which stunned the fish. They claimed it was because we were so dirty. 109 VIII SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY An army of wild geese hundreds in number, turns from its regular line of aerial march; wheels in majestic circles, lower and lower. With bro- ken ranks, much chattering and flapping of the wings, they alight in a field. It looks like solid acres of geese. There is excitement in nearby farmhouses, for roast goose is not to be despised. Feather beds and pillows are needed in the household. The birds have seen to it that their feeding ground is in the clear, with little chance of ambuscade. Level fields and prairie are on all sides. Half a mile away, a horse starts toward the feeding flock. His movements seem rather con- strained and peculiar, judging from the easy gait of an animal left to his own devices. As he nears the flock, it can be noticed that his line of 111 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP travel will pass a little to one side of the geese. When less than an hundred yards from them— Horrors ! — the horse was loaded. Two shots ring out, and as the mass of geese rises hurriedly, two more are fired by the man concealed at the side of the horse. Over the fields come the youngsters from the house, to help carry in the game. Then roast gocse is en the menu for a week. It will pall on the appetite before the finish. Either a horse or cow would answer for the moving blind to screen the hunter's approach, if the animal was tractable, and could be induced to walk at its master's side. The thing most provocative of profanity, in days when the fields of the prairie were feeding grounds for myriads of wild geese during the migrating season, was the horse or cow, trained for the stalking, but who queered the deal when just out of shot gun range by whirling around and exposing the fran- tic man to view of the birds. In such a case, only the value of the animal kept it from being killed and buried right there. 112 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY Those days, now gone forever, when the first clarion call of the wild goose on its journey north- ward over the plains of Nebraska, to the lakes where the broods were reared, gave a thrill to those tired of the long winter and eagerly watch- ing for signs of spring. When in the fall the flocks passed southward, it gave no thrill, for we knew that in the wake of those long, flying wedges, with each unit in the line holding its place so perfectly. Winter was following at his own sweet pleasure. To lie in bed at night and hear first, the faint and far away notes of an approaching squadron, gradually increasing in distinctness and volume as it came nearer. Loud chattering and honking as the travelers passed overhead. Then gradual dying away in the distance, and finally to find yourself straining the ears to get a last, faint honk. It wove a queer spell — that unseen passing in the night, of those creatures obeying the mysterious migrating command. The wild ducks obeyed it also — untold num- bers of them, but they wasted little breath in 113 I UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP publishing the fact to the natives, as they swift- ly passed over with no more than the sound of wings to herald their flight. The thought comes of spring days, hidden in a cornstalk " blind " at the edge of a basin, with a bunch of more or less realistic "decoys" bobbing on the shallow water, the hunter scanned the southern sky for a line of ducks. Then he anxiously watched to see wheth- er or not they would alight to feed with his wood- en imitations. These stoical w^ooden ducks were trained to take misplaced charges of shot without a murmur. For sooner or later, some excitable strolling hunter would let drive, and then slink out of sight when the mistake dawned on his poor, crazed brain. In any review of sights and sounds of yesterday on our Nebraska prairie, the blackbird must be given prominent place, for he was always among those present. And it is a pleasure to know he is there yet, happy as ever. Concerning them, the Encyclopaedia Britan- nica says. — "The blackbird is of a shy and rest- less disposition, courting concealment, and rarely 114 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY seen in flocks, or otherwise than singly or in pairs, etc." The wires are crossed somewhere. This usu- ally reliable authority has made either a bad tan- gle in characterization, or the English bird is really quite different, don't you know. Only one attribute fits our own bird — "restless disposi- tion. " The allegation of his shyness, courting concealment, aversion to flocking— well, it aint him noway. A host of witnesses could be drawn from the farms, to testify as to the fallicy of the accusations. " Four and twenty blackbirds cooked in a pie." Possibly the great number of hunters looking for pie material in England, gave the bird reason to act differently on that side of the water. He was not a hunter's target in the prairie states. Dur- ing long days in the fields, flocks of them became companions of the farmer. Whenever the soil was being stirred, the bird was always on hand; and it was goodbye for all worms turned out in the new furrow. The diversion of looking back from the plow at that bobbing line of trim black 115 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP coats, fairly flashing in the sun, was a pleasure when monotony made time hang heavily. " Singly or in pairs, " indeed. If ever birds seemed to enjoy flocking, these birds did. What about those grand concerts which were held in the Cottonwood groves, where hundreds sat on the swaying branches, each adding voice to the swelling — well, probably it was not harmony in the strict sense of the word; but each bird's note seemed to tell of contentment in the sunshine of prairie summer. In the far distant yesterdays, there was always something impressive in the sight of lumber piles and other building materials, lying on the build- ing spot of a quarter section of raw prairie, ready to be fashioned into a new home. It seemed en- tirely different from a place "in the clearing," such as many of the settlers had known east of the Mississippi in youth. Then came breaking of sod, and a piece of the quarter lay black and smooth, excepting kinks here and there. They were unsightly as far as neatness of the plowed tract was concerned. It 116 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY was held by some, that the more kinky and dis- orderly new furrows lay, the better. Quick rot- ting of severed grass roots was desired. Torn and mangled sod helped. But it was considered an accomplishment, if one could make the black ribbon turn over and lie flat as it left the mould board of the plow. The kinks looked like miniature wigwams open on one side, when seen at a little distance. Jack rabbits evidently considered them to be such, as they used them frequently for hiding places or shelter. The prairie chickens looked on them with favor, but the striped ground squirrel view- ed this encroachment with alarm. When the sod was ready for corn planting, however, he had the time of his life digging up seed. Speaking of Jack rabbits — that is a reminder of how they assisted the prairie hens in hatching their eggs, and caring for young broods. Hun- ters with bird-dogs, were hot on the trail of the hens. Nests were left, if the mother birds were killed during the hatching season. Then the in- telligence of this rabbit, as well as his noble na- 117 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP ture was strikingly shown. He was always alert for deserted nests of eggs. When a tragedy of that kind happened, Mr. Rabbit was Johnny-on- the-spot. He settled right down on the eggs and kept them warm until they hatched; then care- fully watched and protected the young chicks un- til they could fly. When the covey flew in a bunch over the stub- ble fields, this foster-father, or mother, as you like it, — this case might become complicated if the sex of the rabbit is considered,— but we'll drop all that. This adopted parent ran along be- neath the covey, and when the birds alighted in a Cottonwood tree, this long-eared chaperone climbed the trunk and sat with themi. But the ludicrous climax came, v/hen he attempted to give the call of the mother hen — what's that ? Certainly we don't believe it. Seriously though, the jack rabbit did help us to judge the mental calibre of our dogs in those days. The wise ones did not waste energy chas- ing them, while the foolish spent the running period of thier lives at it. To see a dog frantic- 118 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY ally hoofing it after a jack rabbit, yelping at every step — dog yelping, not the rabbit — proved him to be either mentally deficient, or a newcomer in the region. But to continue about breaking prairie. It was a clean, clear-cut job; one of the most pleas- ant on the new farm. There Vv^as always the feeling, which, though hard to describe, was to the effect that one here commenced away back where nature had left off; having prepared us a thing which it had not in all lands left ready for man— a soil that might be put in crop shape without great labor. This reflection might not come to a later gen- eration, raised in the west. But to those reared in lands of timber and rock, where the toil of clearing had put the droop on many a strong pair of shoulders — the taking of these level and unob- structed Nebraska acres direct from nature, all ready for the plow, was something which could not pass as mere matter of fact. The appreciation was such, that no matter how discontented the pioneer became, hs stuck 119 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP to the job. The per cent who went back to the old states, was too small for calculation. Some had come overland in the far-famed prairie schooner ar that. The day of this vehicle is so long gone that children of the new-old land, hear of it as a mat- ter of history. If one passes now, the chances are that a trader in third rate horses is looking for suckers along the way. The white-covered wagon s significance and importance in pioneer days is forgotten. But in their time, they carried the nucleus of untold numbers of new homes, where prosperity was to come after years of toil, isolation and discour- agement. As the eastern counties became set- tled, with consequent increase of land values, the wagons with white covers over their bows passed on thru to the area further west yet un- broken. At the time, it seemed alright. Those who journeyed thus were only repeating methods of some of our county's settlers a few years be- fore. The cheap lands these later homeseekers coveted, proved to be beyond the region of suff i- 120 "At the stackyard, signs of three crops told of a continuous performance in the raising of wheat. The straw piles of last year's crop — the new stacks just built, and plowing for a sowing soon to coTie." page 1 78 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY cient rainfall. After a few years of struggle, the bitter truth was realized. The detailed history of some of those abandoned places on the semi- arid stretches, would make as sad tragedies as ever were written. A solitary grave here and there, where no community cemetery had been established, spoke mutely of the distance from medical aid, or del- icacies for the sick one. It spoke also of the loneliness and desolation in the hour of trial, when old friends and scenes seemed so far away. Sometimes after the fight against such heavy odds had been given up, and the family was back in a more promising location, the bones of the one who winked out on the dry and sandy homestead were brought back to rest near the living. The thought of that solitary grave away out there un- der the quiet stars, had been too disagreeable. While the dead did not care, it spoke volumes for the tie which binds human hearts. Today, how many of those who view the struggling edges of settlement in dry portions of the west, give a thought to the lives in these homes ? 121 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP It is a wonderful thing — that persistence of the mind in bringing up everything excepting facts bearing on the subject at hand. The more you try to get away from a foolish suggestion, the stronger it gets. When all effort goes to bring back in memory, sights and sounds of yesterday, why is it that such an outlandish pair of words as — "Agricultural Paint," crowds out more lofty thoughts? Not so bad for the theme at hand after all, however. That paint was a sight, and loud enough to miake a sound. It certainly made a bright spot on the farm landscape, when a new corn planter, binder or other rural instrument was brought home. The splendors of A. P. with which it was covered could not be outdone — for a week or two. A heavy dew would dull the lustre of it to a per- ceptible extent, and after a few weeks of scorch- ing sun it peeled off like the skin from frozen ears in winter time. The man who invented our alleged agricultural paint, is unsung and unhung — much pity for the latter. But the stuff was some gorgeous as one gazed at the en semble of 122 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY the implement dealer's collection in the show- room; and it has given tone to state and county fairs for many years. At times, it covered up a multitude of sins also. A pine tongue, or pair of double-trees of the same material, looked just as strong under the influence of said A. P. as if made of strongest oak. An epidemic of bright red barn paint ran its course in the community once. It was surely a gay looking neighborhood for a little while. But when the bloom was gone, those barns looked like a relapse. The agent never came back to sell a second order of A. P. The brilliant hues of a new wagon were of a more lasting quality. Probably they were high grade A. P. This vehicle seemed a veritable chariot on four wheels, as the implement dealer greased it up for the journey; and all the neigh- bors took notice as the owner proudly wended his way homeward. But for delicacy and refine- ment, the new buggy held all honors. It was a sign that someone was feeling prosperous, or that a young man was entering society. 123 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP The sounds of yesterday on the prairie — what a host of them. But just now for some reason, there comes with the silence broken by the hum- ming of the lamp's flame, the sound of the first raindrops on the corn leaves, after a narrow es- cape from ruin of the crop by dry weather. That misery of suspense and discomfort of threatened drouth, drawing nearer each day. To know that all of your duty toward the grow- ing crop has been done, and to realize that na- ture's inscrutable plan holds the measure of your wealth for the year. To know that the storm period with its dangers to rows of tall, waving stalks, has all been passed. Then to watch the skies of hot and dry days follow in monotonous succession, when clouds of hope formed in the afternoon, only to fade at sunset. One night when it seemed that the last chance was gone, the wind began to tire of its steady drive from the south. By bedtime, all was as calm as motionless leaves could make it. The sky had clouded over as gradually and evenly as a dissolving view on a picture screen. Then to 124 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY many whose ears were fairly strained to catch it, came the faintest possible murmur — the delicate patter of scattering raindrops on the corn leaves, waiting with burning thirst. Agonizing suspense, — to know whether or not it was but a splash from a sky which might soon be showing stars, and none cared to see them that night. The patter of drops increased, and soon it was a strong healthy sound of falling rain which abated not. The heavens were open at last. As he lay on his bed, the tired tiller of the soil listened to the downpour on the shingled roof, and he gave a huge sigh of relief, as it lulled him to sleep. The days which followed — what is more sat- isfying, if the field is yours, at least, than to watch those shoots breaking out. The silk and tassel — the young ears fattening day after day — until under their own weight they break down and hang, ripening into hardness. There is more of the personal in an acquaint- ance with a field of corn. The stalks have an individuality unlike those of the small grains. One 125 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP might come to notice certain ears and watch the gradual development, and finally hang them on the wall as trophies of a year. Another familiar sound from distant days, is the melodious chirp of our human croaker, who gave his call after the first spring rain. This peculiar and interesting creature was not found in basins with the frogs. Usually, his song came from local newspaper offices — " A good crop of small grain is now assured. " This most trustful and innocent creature of nature's lower kingdom was never able to learn that a rain, or even sev- eral of them after the crops were growing, could easily be blotted out by wind and sun of a dry period, until harvest time gave but a series of sighs for what might have been. A trolley car, passing and repassing with some- thing defective about its motor gearing, has been making sounds which suggested a thing long ob- solete — the old circle sweep, tumbling- rod driven threshing machine. That merciless grind of the " horse power," with tired, sweating teams fol- lowing the tramped and worn circle. 126 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY Threshing day was one of the few occasions of the year, when kids did not have to be called twice or more in the morning. They must be up in time to see the separator "set" at the stacks^ and the horses hitched to the " power." With the coming of the first "steamier" — por- table ones drawn from place to place by teams — there was a new and increased excitement for boys. To see the engineer feed that wonderful little fire-box, and get up steam., gave a real thrill. When "traction" engines came, and pulled them- selves and the entire outfit from job to job, it seemed that wonderful strides in invention were being made. To be the "feeder" of the separator, and spread those bundles of wheat into the cylinders — that was deemed a high honor by the boys. They aspired to grow up and become feeders, as the youths along the river aspire to be pilots of the steamboats. In fact, the entire crew of four men who "went" with the outfit, seemed to lead won- derful lives. Think of it ! Putting up at a dif- ferent house nearly every day — getting all the 127 UNDER THE B^EROSENE LAMP choice grub — a perfect ruin of chicken feathers in their wake. But that straw pile! It took away nearly all the pleasure of threshing day. How the endless stream of chaffy dusty stuff, did boil up and over the top of the slatted carrier. The "blow" stack- er Vv^asn't even dreamed of then. Like convicts, those assigned to stacking by an unkind fate, took their places and prepared to do battle; coming down at last perspiring and dust covered. What a Godsend it was when the machine broke down for a few minutes, giving opportunity to rest on the soft bed. Some of the community threshing outfits were in disrepute with the small fry, be- cause they hardly ever broke down. Again it comes — the rustling sound of drying corn leaves, waving in the cool breeze after first frosts of early fall — that time of rest and relaxa- tion for man, beast, and even soil of the fields. True, we might be working along, but a sense of restfulness from the strain of harvest time was there. Even the fields felt the spell; for the aft- ermath of green which soon hid the fading yellow 128 SIGHTS & SOUNDS OF YESTERDAY and brown of the stubble, was like a short play period for the soil between crops. But when after a wet harvest, it stood high and luxuriant, half hiding the discolored and sprouting shocks, the general appearance of the field suggested noth- ing playful to the owner. On these early fall mornings, when the sun's rays felt just a little comfortable after chill of the night; and big sparkling globules of frost stood on the grasses and weeds — came the exhileration of breathing deep the scent of drying corn, and watching the ears loosen their husks. He who cannot find inspiration in a stroll over the fields of fair Nebraska on a morning like that, had best arise, bow low to confess his shame — then pass out and commune with himself, to find out what is the matter with his soul. 129 IX OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS Sometimes there are prophets, who, as long as they keep in their proper spheres, may be shining lights or fountains of knowledge to us les- ser ones of the common herd; but let them get beyond their range, and the prognostic talent be- comes as sounding brass. Even as late as 1858, only three years before the Civil war began, one of our ponderous monthly magazines which yet remains among the best — when it keeps in its proper place — published an article from which the following paragraph is taken. "The people of the United States have reached their inland western frontier, and the banks of the Missouri river are the shores at the termina- tion of a vast ocean desert over one thousand miles in breadth, which it is proposed to travel, if at all, by caravans of camels, and which inter- pose a final barrier to the establishment of large communities, agricultural, commercial, or even pastoral." 131 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP To stand today at the great railway depots in Omaha or Kansas City, and see the immense trains arriving from this "vast ocean desert," re- minds one that the "caravans of camels," come there only with the circus, when it makes the annual tour with a mile of cars. Why did the people of eastern states, persist so long in judging the prairie region west of the Missouri river by the standard of a desert ? Even today, predjudice has not entirely disappeared. After a number of years in the Ohio valley, the author has discovered that Nebraska does not ex- ist as far as the majority of the natives are con- cerned. All they ever heard about it, was that William J. Bryan lived at Lincoln. The state is secure with them in its reputation as the home of the great Commoner. They will never find out that he transferred his citizenship to Florida. Yes, we are off the map back there. In the matter of antiquities, fifty years does not amount to much; but in the history of the plains, that length of time has been an age. The settlers, commencing with a clean slate and new 132 OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS materials, have built and accomplished much which the east could copy to advantage. Julian Street said in, "Abroad At Home," that the average of the student body in the Univer- sity of Kansas, was higher than that of eastern colleges. The Rhodes Scholarship to Oxford for 1921 was won by a Nebraska University boy — a resident of our own York. "Across the Missouri, " To many living no farther east than Chicago, that phrase yet seerr^s to savor of the far west. Since the prophet of the fifties dubbed it the western boundary of civ- ilization, it has been bridged in many places to carry a large traffic to and from said desert. The traveler, getting first sight of "The Big Muddy," from a car window as the train crosses the bridge, gets a view varying greatly with the time of year or even day. By moonlight, with the high bluffs rising from the water's edge in forbidding blackness, made intense by contrast with the brightly lighted sky beyond their tops, and the swirling water flash- ing back the mysterious glow of the night, it all 133 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP combines to make an impressive time of entry for a new traveler in the land. But if he had made the crossing on some late summer or early fall day, when the river was at low tide — with every old snag and bar out taking the annual sun bath — the stranger might have been less impressed. Again, he might cross in broad daylight during a big rise, and get a view well worth remembering. The Missouri river valley as seen from the top of a high bluff, has charms of its own. Many miles of cotton wood-fringed "bottoms," with the winding channels shining like broad ribbons — all ending with a hazy vista of farms and trees in the far distance — it equals anything on the con- tinent for "practical" beauty. Admiration for the stream is tempered some- what in the same way one might feel when look- ing at a handsome criminal. For that swirling, silt-laden flood is continually perpetrating high jinks on the valley settlers and their farms — even undermining and tearing down high bluffs; but any stream with an average fall of eighteen inches 134 OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS per mile thru such a resistless soil, would be an unruly member. Knowledge of the Missouri's great length helps to give it dignity. Navigable for over two thou- sand miles, it was once a highway. To look at its solitude of waters now, makes the day of its importance as a means of navigation to develop the great northwest, seems but a dream. The wounded from the battlefields near where Custer and his men met their fate, were brought home by the long journey down this stream. Then, a great number of packet steamers and no railroads. Now, almost a complete reversal of conditions, with the future debatable. The mouth of the Missouri— a lapping, surg- ing line resembling the wake of a steamer, as it joins its flood with that of the Mississippi; and is impressive when viewed from a boat's deck. What a long way from this uniting place of the great waters, to the source of either — especially to that of the one which forms the "inland west- ern frontier." Restless and shifting thru all its course, force of habit keeps continuous the pro- 135 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP cess to the end. In the last fifty years, the loca- tion of the mouth has changed several miles; and long "made" flats covered with cottonwoods, are evidence as to where the stream discharged its flood in times past. Taking both the Missouri and the Mississippi from their junction point to source, it would be hard to find two American rivers whose waters unite, and yet have such dif- ferent dispositions and characters. But we have wandered with the current, far down stream — away from the east boundary line of Nebraska, whose rivers and valleys have a more personal interest. So back again up the swirling and muddy waterway, to the mouth of our famous, extremely broad, shallow and sandy Platte; which, although being a river, almost es- capes that responsibility. With a length of twelve hundred miles, it is a river when it has the water. But when the bed lies dry and shining under the August sun, the wide, level series of sandy channels with their pretty little islands, make it look like an unful- filled contract. In June, when all the breadth 136 OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS of valley is a mat of green, and the channels run full, the scene is one to remember as being equal to others far more famed. While shallow, it has a rapid current; and quicksands make fording rather a dangerous prop- osition. When it is practically dry, there comes the curious spectacle of small streams within a river. Narrow interlocking channels, cut down several feet below the general level of the river bottom, carry steady streams of perfectly clear water coming from the underflow. The effect is an odd one, and gives the idea that a series of waterways are all occupying the same territory. The fact that the Platte frequently has less water at the mouth than far upstream, puzzles some of the easterners when informed of the fact. Though it be true that all water is wet, and all rivers run down hill — there is yet a great va- riety of sensations and impressions gained, when first sight comes of renowned streams. Their general appearance may be quite similar, but an influence comes — brought about by thought of the history of regions thru which they pass, and 137 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP affecting the beholder in a strange way. Just a few examples from different parts of our country, to illustrate the idea. In old Concord, a view of the little river bear- ing the same name, weaves in with the literary traditions of the town a glamour which puts the sluggish current in keeping with the neighbor- hood. Hawthorne's descriptive power cannot be better appreciated than by taking a stroll in the locality of the Battle Bridge, and then read- ing the description of it in the charming sketch, "Mosses From An Old Manse." In the lower valley of the Hudson, especially where Ichabod Crane met his fate in adventure with the headless horseman, something of the spell induced by Irving's tales of the river is wov- en into impressions one gets. And when the tide is coming in, it gives chance for argument as to whether rivers do always run down hill. For the stately Hudson — really occupying but a crack on the surface of the earth — barely gets by in the river class at all. But it looks like one, and a beautiful one at that. 138 OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS And as hinted at before, in a westward cross- ing of the Mississippi or Missouri, many eastern folks get the idea that they are crossing a boun- dary Hne into something — sometimes the end of the earth. In the far west, excitement comes to tourists all along the train when word is passed that the Colorado is just ahead. After the long ride thru nearly arid country, the appetite gets strong for sight of a stream of any kind. The "atmosphere" of the desert, and thought of the long, winding miles the river makes in the soli- tude of the Grand Canyon, combine to give the ones seeing it for the first time, impressions far different from those of other streams. A river whose channel is stable and practically unchanging, seems more like a settled institution. It is general practice to speak of the "banks" of small streams, but with such as the Ohio or the Mississippi, it usually becomes "shores." And these, especially of the Ohio, are certainly very fickle ones. Those of this week, may be far be- low or above those of last week. There is always interest in watching those constantly changing 139 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP shore lines as the river rises and falls. To see familiar bars, snags and other landmarks gradu- ally disappear as the water rises, and see them again come in sight, point by point as the stream subsides a little more each day, always presents some novelty. Once more we have wandered, and must get back to the mouth of the Platte. In the region of Louisville, the bluffs with their rock quarries help make a setting for this peculiar stream with its quiet, shifting channels of sand. Here, when June skies come, with beautiful cloud decorations — there are days w^hen the chan- nels are as blue as the sky above; and the green of willow, Cottonwood, and many kinds of shrub and grass — changing in tint as the cloud shadows drift across the valley from bluff to bluff — make a picture as dream-like and alluring, as ever did Hudson at Tarry town. But — the people haven't found it out yet. And there are nights under the brilliant moon — with frogs and crickets to give emphasis to the otherwise perfect stillness, the scene is as enthralling as the witching hour 140 OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS on the Tappan Zee in Irving's time. But — we are sorry to add — some Nebaska people are going to scoff when they read this. Since the Platte has no waterfalls, is not nav- igable, and passes thru a valley of peaceful, pas- toral nature — those who demand excitement for their daily tonic, might call it the river of silence. When the channels go dry above the mouth of the Loup, and the Platte valley lays scorching in sun of a summer drouth — we would have to ad- mit the correctness of such a name. Even fair California has its seasons when the inhabitants are less prone to sound its praises, and our retir- ed prairie pioneers dwelling there, figure out how much they were stung on that very orna- mental bungalow, and wish they were back in old Nebraska — until next winter. The silence of the Platte may at times be only the sign that the waters are in active service far up stream — irrigating the fertile valley. For to- day, it is productive of so great an amount of live stock and all kinds of farm products, that a little empire might be fed from it. 141 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP It is up to some statistical organization, to fig- ure out how much shotgun ammunition has been wasted in the Platte valley during the last quar- ter of a century or more. Since there are com- putations relative to how many shots are required to kill a man in battle, it might be that an esti- mate could arrive approximately at the number of shots fired to kill a wild duck or goose. What an interesting subject on which to spec- ulate. How we long for space to do it justice. Strange it is that the question has not been up to public notice before this. Just consider it for a few moments. Here is the long stretch of valley, extending in winding curves thru the entire length of the state. The channels with so many little islands, make ideal amduscades for the hunter. The mi- grating season is at hand. Honking of the wild geese and whirring of wild duck, stirs the blood of prairie Nimrods for many miles away on each side of the river. With wagons packed for the slaughter, they close in on the valley — prepare hiding places and secrete themselves, with decoys 142 «l c 3 UL -I DO O O > ^ OUR STREAMS AND VALLEYS more or less ghastly and petrified looking, placed at proper distance from the blinds. Bombard- ment begins. Some of those web-footed birds must have been endowed with charmed lives, to escape all that booming clatter of shot. It was just like fishing — certain hunters went home with game, while others returned without it. And the tales they told of wonderful shots ! Ananias would have wept in sheer jealousy to hear them. Many scenes in other river valleys of Nebraska are deserving of far more credit than allowed up to date. Along the Loup — at Fullerton, for one illustration. A view from the hills west of the city, is one really inspiring — not for rugged or startling features, but for the wealth of rich fields, and pastures, with comfortable homes nestling in sheltering groves. And another — the valley of the Blue — so heav- ily timbered near the water, along the greater part of its length, that the stream is almost com- pletely hidden when viewed from the upland at the valley's rim. At Crete, Beatrice, and in the 143 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP vicinity of Wymore, there are many spots with such charms that hosts of admirers could be de- pended on for testimony if necessary. The m.ain hindrance to pubHcity for prairie scenes, is inability of the camera to reproduce delicate detail which makes the chief charm of a view in our valleys, or across the level uplands. Many amateur photographers, and some profes- sionals, have tried — and then sighed; far when the camera attempts distance on the prairie, the result looks like solitude and desolation. It can make a bird's-eye view of our fertile and beautiful Blue valley, look about as inspiring as an Arizona desert. Some worthless hillside farm in New England, which would not raise turnips, looks like a Garden of Eden — compared to a high priced prairie farm, when photographs of each are put on exhibition together. 144 X OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN Readers may criticise from time to time, lack of systematic arrangement in these chapters; but just think it over, and ask yourself this question: Do my recollections of a long gone past, come in an orderly procession, when I sit down for an evening of quiet seclusion, and happen to be re- minded by something or other of youthful days ? Am I not lead here and there by suggestions, in ways for which I am not responsible ? Things are getting worse right along, and the reader must peruse this chapter at his or her own risk. For now, at this thought of old days in a prairie town, we feel that the kerosene lamp is going to take us back to its own — where it ruled supreme. They have electric lights and gasoline mantle lamps there at present, but in the days of which we write, kerosene was an essential to social life of the community. 145 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP We will consider the coming of the railroad to be the dividing line between frontier life and real community settlement, free from dangers known to the generation now gone to rest. The prairie of fifty years ago had a share of loneliness and privation, but there was little of the physi- cal danger known to those who had comie a few years before. All difficulties with the noble red men in our territory had been settled, and he was only a tradition to us. If we found a few arrow heads now and then, they seemed to the youngsters but relics of a prehistoric race. Such was our conception of the dozen years or so, that had elapsed since the troublesome Indian had been driven out of Kansas and the similar terri- tories adjoining. To those raised in the old states, where the establishment of new towns has long been a lost art, the extension of a line of railroad through an unsettled territory was an interesting process. Not even an old time crossroads store with a church nearby, could the railroad company take for a nucleus of a new town. Such things gave 146 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN them no concern. They never swerved their line an inch from the path of least resistance as marked out by the engineers and surveyors. It was the great future which was always kept in view; and even to this day they straighten lines and leave small towns stranded high and dry, figuratively speaking. So when the row of pine stakes was driven for many miles over the prairie, and the town- sites laid out with an average distance of eight miles between, the settlers knew just how the future stood in the matter of railway transporta- tion, and how far they were going to be from town — an important thing. A description of one of these towns — filled in with such regularity between the county seats — would picture all of them. The railroad com- pany established a sidetrack, yards and shute for loading livestock, and the standard pattern of little red depot, designed by some master archi- tect about 1865, and carefully adhered to for over forty years. They also issued orders that all grain elevators to be erected along the line match that 147 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP depot in color. Their duty to the public in the new villages ended with this, and they were par- ticular in keeping within the contract's terms. The railroad people were aware that whatever benefit might come to them from the develop- m^ent of the country within the territory of the line, would be theirs without further effort. Thus they were named "Soulless corporations," although only following the way of human nature in independent positions. Private enterprise quickly built a general store, in which was housed the local representative of the government — the postmaster — who distribut- ed the cheese and sugar as well as the mail. All too soon another general store arrived, and per- haps another. Thereby the needs of the none too populous community was supplied by several establishments, all scratching to make a living. One concern by receiving all the business, thus enabling it to carry a better and more extended line, would have served the purpose better; but the curious ways of human nature prevented it. Growth and prosperity of the village could only 148 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN be judged by the filling of vacant lots along that main street — just as a city a thousand times larger measures its prosperity today. In the beginning, the dozen or two of frame buildings near the red depot were shadeless in summer sun, and unsheltered from winter storm. Today, these towns half hidden in trees shading streets with modern homes, are a sharp remind- er of time's swift flight. While there might be a long tale to tell of times during the growth of our state's small towns, we pass up on everything of formal and historical nature. Whimsical memories of odds and ends come, and shall be put on record. In some way, men- tion of shadeless condition in summer, has been a reminder of the sun's darkening effect on the human skin — especially that of lads just begin- ning to cast admiring glances at a sex alleged to be more deadly than the male. Sunburn was the country boy's cross. Though he did not have to bear it alone, little comfort came to him from knowing that his companions had also the disgrace of dark tanned hands and 149 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP faces during the long season from early planting to final harvest. Winter brought a bleaching process of its own, so by Christmas the rural beau could attend social festivities and have no handicap against the young drug clerk who never went out in the summer sun. Yes, winter was certainly a friend to the country bey, for it put him in trim to be an equal competitor for the hearts of the fair sex, and gave ease and poise at parties or other social functions. An African traveler might return from his conquest of discovery in the burning tropic sun, and be a hero with a face like a bronze doorknob. But there was no heralding brass band to wel- come the prairie lad, when he went to town with bronzed face acquired in the furrow behind the plow. Thus each spring the strong south winds left him resigned to his fate for the season. Some may read and smile, thinking this an idle pleasantry; but I shall put. Sunburn, down as reason number twenty-three, in an inspiring tale entitled, " Why boys left the farm." Times have changed some, however; and had there been a 150 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN prophet at hand to tell of present day city youths motoring bareheaded across the country to get tanned, that tide of young country blood rolling cityward, might have been checked. The art of wearing Sunday clothes was one that required practice and a cool head, if the wearer hoped to appear at ease or give the im- pression that it was an every day matter with him. Since sunburn at that time was so unstyl- ish, and rural folks rather looked down on them- selves^ a coat of tan brought self consciousness when dressing-up time came. After a man toiled all week clad only in a colored shirt, overalls and primitive shoes, tran- sition to a suit of store clothes was in some degree abrupt and awkward to the senses. In summer, that coat ! Oh my ! Words can never tell of the suffering it caused. Near to nature all week as far as clothes were concerned, it was like be- ing put in a Turkish bath to put on a coat in the good old summer time. Light weight suits for summer were almost unknown — in the country, at least. Besides it would have been extravagant 151 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP to own two Sunday outfits at once. To adapt the " good " suit for hot days, was a simple pro- cess — just take off the coat, if you got too warm, and wanted to be in style. We of the farm enjoyed the independent priv- ilege of wearing our clothes until they bore all the earmarks of personal friends, without thought as to what sort of scarecrow spectacle we might make before the world. The world though, was not there to see. That was the secret of our boasted independence. Therefore a point never came in the life of a suit of clothes, when it was necessary to decide whether or not it was too shabby or out of style for further use. Of course there came a time to decide on its fitness for Sunday wear; but no sorrow came if the decision was a negative one. It was then really the beginning of a closer and more intimate friendship. For with infrequent opportunity to go on dress parade, we could not begin to feel true fellowship with our clothes until we took them for second best. And when the period of second best had passed — just where the slave of 152 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN the city must let his suit go, to the tramp or rag- man — our time for ripened affection began. Putting them on for every day wear on the farm, gave a feeling of companionship like that with one who had been with us on a long jour- ney, having many ups and downs. The trousers and vest were woven into rag carpet, long before the coat was finally hung on a nail in some shed or storeroom, as a reserve to wear on hog-killing day, which required special costume. Though sadly worn, and disfigured almost be- yond recognition, it still held a general resem- blance to its old-time self; and the pangs of grief were lessened, for we yet had our old friend in a way — like the Egyptians with their mummies of the dead. It is no joke to say that one had to have some excuse for dressing up, those days. When the night of the big doings proved to be a rainy one, sadness came to many hearts. There might not be another chance for a week or so to wear that new suit or dress. Is it cause for wonder, that at bedtime on Sunday evening when nothing was 153 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP on hand for the week, that some of the young gave a Httle sigh as they laid away their best clothes. For the heart of youth is the same, whether in city or country. Another impatient reader exclaims,- "This guy told us he would write about old days in a prairie town. He stayed in town about five minutes, and then went to the country. Is he ever coming back ? " There is a very plausible excuse for this seem- ingly erratic conduct. We did not get to town so often then. Antedating the mechanical age, we did not have something breaking down every day; thus causing a trip into the village or county seat for repairs. Life was simple, and we might, during busy times, only see " town " once a week. But we will go tonight — in memory — for there is something to "attend." It is now well along in the third week of the meeting. One of the deacons, acting as sexton, is lighting the kerosene lamps. The stoves have been showing redness for an hour. But not un- til after the " first bell," will the deacon turn the 154 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN lamps to anywhere near a full height of flame. For if the service should happen to be rather long drawn, it would be an awkward thing to have the oil run low before the finish. There is no doubt of a full house tonight. The last corn husking has just been finished, and the strain of early rising is relieved for the winter. Therefore the rural population is free for what- ever social or public gatherings are now coming to hand. The roads are in fine condition, and a full moon adorns the prairie heavens. For miles around, the wagons, both lumber and spring, will come rattling along and before the second bell rings, hitching posts around the church lots will be crowded with teams; and an audience — a mingling of those in the little town and their country neighbors — will be ready to join in a preliminary series of songs, selected from Pentecostal Number Two. Down through the years tonight, comes the refrain of those old songs. That there were jar- ring notes in the chorus at times, or that main strength and good lungs counted for more than 155 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP expression, will be freely admitted. But it was a whole-hearted performance, and its earnestness is unquestioned. And it was the unison of a neighborhood joining together in the lifting of voices, at a common center of public gathering — a thing the city knows nothing about. There was no one under the roof that night, who did not know, by sight at least, every other person in the building. If a stranger or two happened to be there, his or her identity was soon learned, and main characteristics noted. Even after confessing that the salvation of souls was relegated to a time of conveniene, it still re- mains a sort of psychical fact, that the average person is more susceptible to religious influences in cold weather than in warm. So the winter revival on the prairie, was in line with good practice, after all. As much as anything else, the meeting fur- nished social recreation to old and young. To the greater number of them, it also allowed op- portunity for getting out of every day clothes, and seeing each other in something else besides 156 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN the sombre garb of working harness, which had but small variety in style. With two or three ol the deacons, this dress- ing up ended in a compromise rather abrupt to the eye. Never was there a less unfinished work of art, than a man rearing his face above the stiff and collarless bosom of the old-fashioned white shirt. Even with a collar, harmony was far from being complete. There must be a necktie of some sort to break the monotony of this white expanse. Those deacons were goodly men, and nothing but pleasant thoughts of them and their doings comes to mind. But that idea of being dressed up, when the white shirt bosom stretched un- trimmed and undraped from ear to ear ! A shudder comes, as an awful comparison in- trudes itself. Neighbor X had a calf lot, with the boards dazzlingly whitewashed. When a pic- ture comes to mind now, of the calves looking over that white fence, it is impossible to keep from seeing the deacons at the sam.e time, wear- ing their collarless white shirts. And it is not a fair comparison — to the calves. 157 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP There was, however, a scale of standards by which the apparel could be regulated for week days, when attending such gatherings. It was hardly expected that the very best clothes would be worn. A man might even wear one of the old fashioned colored shirts to the service, if properly groom.ed in other respects, and conduct- ing himself with reserve and propriety. Had he appeared clad in a modern colored shirt, there is no doubt that he would have been arrested for disturbing the meeting. The compromises with approved costume, is a reminder of another; and we must leave the service long enough to tell of it. Telling time by the sun, was a practice which developed into an art. With the checker board system of farm division at section lines, the car- dinal points of the compass were at hand on all sides to assist. That is — on days when the sun shone. On cloudy days, the solar method was lame. It was general custom for a young man to get a watch about the same time the law al- lowed him to cast his first vote. Not as a re- 158 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN ward for voting, but, in popular opinion of the time, a watch before the age of twenty-one was a thing which might lead the youth into worldly ways. It should come only with the dignity of mature years. " Coming of age," in these days, was an event of more importance to the average boy, than it is now, since he was not raised to be his own boss and tell the unfortunate parents where to get off at, from the day long pants were first draped on his form. But few, even of the more elderly residents in the country homes, carried their watches every day. They looked at the kitchen clock in the morning, again at noon, and yet again at bed- time. There was no whistle compelling them to be on time to the minute, no car to catch. They were absorbed in their own affair on their own private estates. What mattered the hour or the minute, so long as Sunday was not passed by mistake. And, as for wearing the watches — the act should be classed in the ornamental list. For as often as not, the time-piece was not wound up. It was simply a part of the costume when 159 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP the owner was dressed in Sunday clothes; or rath- er the chain was. You remember what a show those chains used to make. Some always wound and set their watches on Sundays and holidays; but for just a visit to a neighbor's, it might be neglected as mere detail. If the neglect led to embarrassing results, it was the luck which comes from taking chances. The following illustrates this graphically, and should be a warning to the young. Three neighbors whom we will call. A, B, and C, went to take dinner with a fourth, D. They were slick and span — and also uncomfortable — in their store clothes. D's wife thought the fam- ily clock was not indicating properly, and this seemed to be a good chance to correct it. Remember that in those days, she could not call "central," and get the very latest Western Union time. So she stepped into the parlor where A, B and C, were waiting for whatever might happen next, and asked A, who sat near- est her, " What time is it ? " He replied, with a shade of embarrassed regret on his countenance: 160 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN " My watch is not wound up." Key wind, you know. She then turned to B, w^hose look of embarrassment came ahead of her question — the same one put to A. He said, " My watch is not running either." She appealed to C, the last hope. He was resourceful, and also had an advantage over the others. Sitting by a south window, and know- ing the habits of his companions, he had antic- ipated their failure and taken observation of the sun's position. When the question came to him, he calmly produced his watch, gave it an uncon- cerned glance and replied carelessly, "Twenty minutes past eleven." Our section of the state expanded with a just pride, as the Burlington pushed slowly westward with York for its temporary terminal. When it finally reached Grand Island, thus making direct connection with the Union Pacific, there seemed to be small necessity for a further exten- sion of the " B © M." How many little commu- nities were developing at the same time along the new line, with the same hopes and ambitions, 161 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAlvIP the same trials and disappointments. Speaking of trials, we will be specific. We are thinking now of the Micawbers in the country towns, who, with a vigilance everlasting and eternal, waited patiently day after day and year after year for something to "turn up." On benches or chairs in front of stores, livery stable or blacksmith shop, they commanded all points of view strategically. The Micawber comparison is an ill-fitting one, however, and an apology is due the original wor- thy. For in the first place, the small town men of leisure were not waiting for anything of pe- cuniary advantage to come their way. Then the Dickens creation is not on record as a gossip. After this insinuation, it might be well to come out in the open with the bare accusation that the patient watchers on the village street were there to catch stray bits of local scandal, and to make observations which would enable them to get a closer insight into other people's private affairs. The one among them who could keep the best informed on juicy morsels, was common law 162 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN king of the vulture-like assembly. It amounted almost to a profession. With a head full of oth- er people's business or embarrassing trials, and an eye ever roving for more, the ruler of the gos- sips with those close to the throne, moved in a lofty disdain among others who attended humbly to their own business. There is no reason to suppose that our prairie town folks were more inclined to be curious than other people would be under the same circum- stances; because it is the nature of small towns to know more of the individual inhabitant's bus- iness and family affairs. But a half dozen idlers of the ferret-eyed type — such as existed in the days of the livery stable forum — can cause pain and annoyance to the respectable citizens, who would live in peace and harmony. To discover the source of a stream, we follow it — not toward the mouth, but up against the current to where it becomes only a tiny rivulet. Using the same principle, we come to the source of snobbery and social pretension. The end of our search would find us in a small village in 163 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP most any part of the United States. It might not be able to boast of more than two hundred inhabitants but in the weekly paper will be an item something like the following :- "Mrs. X entertained a small but select party Friday afternoon. A dainty two course luncheon was served, and all report a fine time." "Select." There is the secret of the whole matter; and we did not discover it in New York or Boston. It proves beyond a doubt, that the so called democratic American begins at the ear- liest possible moment to put himself above the common herd, by the simple process of being "very select." In the little town, when the ''locals" were read, those who did not appear in the "select" list, were thus taught to know their proper places. And in the same town, the children had their methods of selection, seeming almost instinctive — inherited from the parents, probably. When they planned parties, and made up lists of those to be invited, some of them — not all thank good- ness — wished to leave out a few for the reason 164 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN that they were not " good enough." Many a little heart, with a sob and a tear, thus learned early in life what it meant to be, "select." The neighbor who never brought it back — yes, he lived in our community. What he bor- rowed is forgotten now; but if it wasn't one thing it was something else, or yet another article for some other purpose. It might be a hayrack, or a post-hole digger; a harrow or the fanning mill; a mowing machine or the sausage grinder, horse collar or scoop shovel. Its of no mom.ent what the article was. The fact that a fellow always had to go after his own property when he wanted to use it, caused many a sigh of resignation. This appreciative neigh- bor had the drop on his victim, since there was no telephone. One could not call him up and ask for a return of the plunder. There was no telling what he would ask for next time, thus giving a chance to hide it when he was seen coming down the road. Several miles away, lived another family that was surely some shiftless. Its members were 165 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAlvIP surely some shiftless. They were noted for bor- rowing capacity. Somebody gave them a runty pig, and a member of the household promptly came over to neighbor Jones, asking if they might borrow a pig trough. Jones was sarcastic. He had loaned them all that he felt disposed to spare, with such low percentage of returns. Calculat- ing it would be a shaft which would wither the applicant, he answered thus, — "Where did you borrow the pen ?" " We borrowed the pen over to Smith's," came the prompt and smiling reply. Jones wilted. There was nothing to do but hand over the trough. They had borrowed one of those small portable pens which could be slid a- long the grass at will, allowing brother pig fresh rooting territory any time he began to squeal for greater opportunities. The pig trough story ought to be genuine. It was told in our Nebraska town for fact, many years ago. Since then, it has been circulated here in southern Indiana, from an entirely dif- ferent source. With so much telling, it ought really to have happened somewhere. 166 OLD DAYS IN A PRAIRIE TOWN One brief chapter would barely suffice to give a synopsis of old days in a prairie town. Life there is not so simple as the funny paragraphers would have us believe. In boyhood days, when returning from the county seat, we passed thru the main street of our little village. It looked rather tame after so much excitement around the courthouse spuare. Today, these towns between the county capi- tals, enjoy a social life which the uninitiated can- not understand. Some folks insist on judging such places by loungers whom they see on the depot platform, watching the trains pass. An experience covering a number of years in cities, has convinced the writer that the " Rube" class is just as much in evidence there, as in humbler places. Expressed in a different form, but just as unmistakable as the rural brand. 167 XI SHEAVES OF WHEAT Speaking paradoxically but practically, the first tinge of green came twice in the life of a winter wheat crop; and both events were watched with interest, shading into anxiety. Slender tendrils of fall green, marked progress of root growth necessary to give the plant strength for the winter hibernation. A farmer's life certainly runs the full course of hopes and disappointments. When watching the wheat make the early fall start — under un- favorable conditions, perhaps — then again in spring, looking for signs of life — the tinge which would tell whether or not the gripping frosts and freezes had ended life for the little plants — the thought came that a game of chance was being played right before his eyes, and no hand of the law would step in to stop it. 169 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP But if all was well so far, the faint green deep- ened under the April sun, and from then on until the shocks stood in the browning stubble, the evolution of the crop was a thing most truly wonderful and interesting. First, the faint green tinge deepened into a mat of such evenness, that it seemed like a car- pet of velvet. A week or two more, and the winds could chop the surface with little wavelets like those on a pond of very shallow water. Rapidly it mounted, a heavy dark mass, spark- ling in the morning with heavy beads of dew. Then the heading time — an unfolding like that of the butterfly from the chrysalis. When the newly headed field lay swelling in the breeze with gentle undulations like a harbor sea, inde- scribable shades of color dissolved over it in the days which followed. Under changing lights of the June skies, came everything possible in the line of green. How carefully the waving mass was studied to detect the first sign of yellow — the beginning of the harvest ripening. Just when the ripening began, 170 SHEAVES OF WHEAT and what stage the process was in after it did begin, was always a problem to figure out. For these skies of June days, also played pranks with tints of yellow now mingling in the green. Viewed from the proper angJe in bright sun- light, ripening seemed to be advancing rapidly; and the farmer frantically prepared for the cutting which appeared to be only a few days away. But if a cloudy and rainy day came just then, he scratched his head while pondering as to where that ripened look had gone. With ripening of the heads, came endless shelling out in the hand of plump ones, to make estimate of the yield. How many bushels were wasted in that way each year, would be hard to determine. It was one of the most natural im- pulses in human nature. As the crop neared maturity, study of the heav- ens was not neglected. Whether it be on the blue expanse of ocean, or the miles of green prairie, this becomes an instinctive habit. We studied the sky as did the sailor, because it was practic- ally our master. Its showers and its storms, made 171 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP our wealth and our poverty. Since the sheep passes as an example of weakness and defense- lessness in the animal kingdorr, a field of ripen- ed wheat might be similarly compared in the vegetable world. When the yellowing heads shone in the after- noon sun, the blue of the sky harmonized per- fectly along the horizon and high above it. But when the horizon began to darken, the increas- ing contrast brought an instinctive note of warn- ing to the farmer, who had watched evolution of the crop thru the months. As the darkening strip mounted higher, and a wicked looking line of clouds forms low in the distance, all figuring as to probable yield was laid aside. A flash of lightning, and a distant roll of thunder. A dulling of the sun, as the edge of the deep blue-gray spreads. In this softened light, the ripened wheat stands with startling contrast against the solid blue- black mass below that yellow-tinged line of clouds heading the storm. With the death-like stillness which comes just before the swirling clouds get 172 SHEAVES OF WHEAT their blasts into play, thought came that the help- less field of grain was like the lamb awaiting the pleasure of the lion. But why dwell on calamity and desolation. Let us say, that for this time, the storm proved to be only a bluster. And the sunset, that night, gave to the unharm.ed wheat fields a glow of col- or passing all description. Far in the southeast where the afternoon s unpleasantness had disap- peared, was heaped a pile of fleecy white clouds. Fro2Ti the high eminence of a barn roof, the fields and pastures were fair to see. The wheat, ready for the binder, when the morning sun takes away the heavy dew. The deep green of the corn, over which stray tassels were already shooting up here and there. The broad pools of water lying in the basins, and shining like silver in the twilight. The air — was home-made mountain ozone. As the twilight deepened, the fleecy cloud- balls were yet visible, and reflected in a faint glow the highlights of the sunset. Often they would flare up with soft light like fire-flies. This 173 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP proved there was lightening below them, but no sound came. It w^as so silent in their direc- tion, that it was easy to i'xagine them a part of another world, or a picture painted on the dis- tant sky. With the feeling of relief at escape from the storm, and the comfort of the shower in the way of fresh, cool air, there was peace in the farmer's heart that night. Tomorrow would begin the harvest. The crickets had come to be among those present, and their chirping lulled the weary to rest. Troubles faded away, as the distant evening clouds of the storm had faded into the darkness. So dawned the morning of the first day of the cutting. To get a start, was to be half done. There was once a farmer who prayed for a wet harvest time; and they put him in the lunatic asylum. It was a plain case. There was noth- ing else to do. All who have served apprentice- ship in the fields, will understand. But with all eagerness to get into the swing of it, and put the crop out of harm's way, few there are who can truthfully say that they fairly 174 SHEAVES OF WHEAT itched to follow the binder, and take the job of shocking as it came, better or worse. There were many tiz^es on the farm, when one realized that a reserve of endurance like that of the prize fighter, was necessary to keep a fel- low on his pins from morning till noon, or noon till night. But in the wilting heat of a harvest afternoon, as he looks en the long rows of bun- dles ahead, waiting for the shccker, this realiza- tion is vividly clear and strong. Surely here is where bread is earned by sweat of the brow. With sweat, comes thirst. He who has never shocked, might as well pass these lines by. Appreciation can com.e only from experience in this case. At the end of the field a quarter of a mile away, is a choice morsel — a large jug of water wrapped in a wet burlap sack, and stowed in a shock se- cure from the sun s blistering rays. Possibly thirst was aggravated by the sight of the rows of bundles that must be set up in shocks before the jug is reached. What an endless task it seems, and how the sweat does run into the eyes, 175 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP leaving the mind in no condition to while away the time by bringing up idle memories, or dreams for the future. The tired body keeps all the senses alert to its own needs. But shock by shock, the goal is approached, until only a half dozen remain ahead. " Now why," the one who never shocked may exclaim, "didn t you go on and get a drink, and then come back to finish ? " Beloved but ignorant one, "listen," as these natives of the Ohio valley say so charmingly. In dire cases of thirst, this was done as you suggest. But it was a matter of pride, a time-worn custom, an unwritten law of the fields, or a combination of all these, which spurred one to the task and compelled going just so far between drinks. When, with palpitating heart, labored breath- ing and trembling hands, there came the thought of how a great pleasure can com.e from a simple thing, when it is really needed. And that bliss- ful five minutes rest in the shade of a shock — words cannot describe it. If all of life could be a rest like that— ! ! ! ! 176 SHEAVES OF WHEAT And once there was a particularly trying after- noon. The bundles were green and very heavy, while the binder had bv?en "missing," to an ag- gravating extent. The sky was clear, and the sun was at his best. Far beyond the western horizon, a long line of low-lying clouds, indistinct and hazy, made a startling illusion of mountain peaks. So perfect was it, that it seemed hard to believe it a cloud picture only. There was the dark saw-tcoth line against the sky, with the haze of many miles to soften and allure with its silence and mystery. It looked for all the world like that first glimipse a hundred miles east of Denver, where thousands watch for their first sight of the Rockies. But that afternoon in the wheat field, when no cloud came to shield from the sun s glare, the phantom range in the west aided by the harvest thirst, brought visions of cool, shaded canons, pine-scented and restful for all the cares of life. And the clear, cold stream that came boiling over its stony bed; the little spring which sent just enough cold water down the broad face of . 177 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP a granite wall, to keep it moist, and dark in col- or. All the details came in that picture, until — why, this is the last shock, and the jug is at hand, to soothe, rest and restore. Stacking time proved once again, that in union there is strength. For with each little stacker working faithfully in his own field, the entire prairie landscape was quickly dotted with many picturesque "settings." At the stackyard, signs of three crops told of a continuous performance in the raising of wheat. The old straw piles of last year's crop — the new stacks just built, and the plowing for the sowing soon to come. In September days, the shelled grains around the stacks had grown into a mat. Here, in the shade, with the scent of new straw and ripening corn — well, what's the use. It is a poet's job, therefore we pass. 178 "As the twilight deepened, the fleecy cloud'balls were yet visible, and reflected in a faint glow the fading highlights of the sunset." -page 173 XII WINDY DAYS AND CALM In the memory of those who knew the prairie of Nebraska and Kansas, the most unforgetable recollections relate to the wind. With an unob- structed sweep over the level stretches, it held high carnival. There was no choice of seasons; any old time would do. The windy periods might vary from year to year, but there was no month which could not muster fully matured, bellowing blasts, lasting from one day to a week, holding like the magnetic needle to one point of the compass with almost unvarying velocity day and night, and hot or cold according to the sea- son at hand. But in all of it there was nothing which could be catalogued or scheduled, beyond the fact that the south wind was ordinarily a summer variety, and the north wind thrived best in winter. It was all so erratic, that, had ships sailed our 179 UNDER THE KEROSENE LA^IP prairie seas, the sailing dates would have been very irregular. We had a few signs, however, that were looked to more or less with the bitter knowledge gained by experience, that all signs might fail in dry weather, as they did elsewhere. Thus, if after several successive days of lusty, warm south wind in spring or summer, we did not see a darkening of the sky in the north and west as the breeze began to die down, we knew one of our best signs of rain had failed. If the wind swung to the west before it began to wane, there was little hope. If it veered to the south- east or on beyond, it was no tim.e to cut hay. After a deathly calm of a day or two, we knew^ it would make up for lost tim.e. In summer, when drouth threatened, there was no pleasure in noting the gradual rising of a south wind as the day advanced. In winter, nobody pined for north wind, unless it was the coal dealer. We had no iceman to worry about the hot days. It was a land of extremes, and the winds were responsible for a full share of it, including changefulness of the skies. 180 WINDY DAYS AND CALM And calm days? Well, rather. That dead stillness of August, when the rush of shock threshing was on. Not a leaf of tree or corn stirred. Smoke columns rising straight up here and there, showed where "crews" were clearing the fields. The golden piles of straw, loomed like mountains in miniature. The hum of the threshing machine came faintly. Windmills with wide open wheels dotted the landscape, ready for any fitful breeze of the mo- ment, to add a little water in the depleted tanks where the cattle stood fighting flies. And those engines were thirsty things — coughing and pant- ing as they strove to keep up the speed of the separators, eating the sheaves of wheat. What a task it was to keep them supplied with water during a "still spell," and how they did toot for the water wagon ! Far over toward the horizon, a windmill wheel begins to turn briskly. We knew a breeze was coming. Those wheels were our sentries, for when unobstructed by trees, they gave the rela- tive velocity of the fitful winds. 181 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP That terrible contrast of the seasons. Again the dead cahn on the prairie. But now, it is that of a cold and clear winter night. A foot of snow lies over fields and pastures. The new moon, now nearly down to the horizon, gives enough light to show buildings and trees as dark spots against the white, for long distances. The small groups of trees, seem so outclassed in the broad nocturnal view of snow. It is a safe bet that they are at the north and west of the houses close by, for a "windbreak," in time of storm. There is no fury tonight, unless it be called a fury of biting frost. The stillness is Arctic like. If it lasts until the sun can glaze the snow with a slight crust, something very disagreeable may be averted. A high wind just now would carry the dry snow in blinding clouds, drifting it many feet deep, and leaving whole acres bare. In the homes scattered far apart over the prairie, kerosene lamps are sending out their gleams. Those spending the evening by the fire inside, are apprehensive. They could rest easier tonight if they knew tomorrow's sun would shine un- 182 WINDY DAYS AND CALM clouded, and pack the fluffy crystals. A touch of "January thaw,'' would be welcome. Since this is a free country, all who wish may sound praises to the beautiful snow. But an ex- tended observation proves that the ones who shout the loudest, "See the beautiful snow !", are recruited from a class that has but small oc- casion to get out in it. In a land where no howl- ing winds come to whirl and drift, one might look with more leniency on these gushing ones. But on this prairie, where the strong winds are adapted equally well to either hot or cold air — [joke,] admirers of cold and clamm-y snow ought to be carefully watched by the sanity board, for symptoms of a violent stage. A foot of this flaky white substance, lying unpacked and dry, ready to fly into clouds when driven by the north wind, is a very dangerous and disagreeable thing. If anyone thinks of snow on the western ranges as only a thing of beauty, he must be heedless of the misery and suffering it causes to the helpless live stock, unprotected from storm, or the poor of the human race, who 183 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP are almost as helpless as the cattle and sheep at times. Let us compromise by calling snow a necessary evil, bringing moisture and protection to soil and wheat. Let admiration for this Arctic substance, be centered on the snow-capped peaks — symbols of uninhabitable places. Extending across the snow-covered prairie from horizon to horizon, on a grade but little above the level of the fields, lines of steel rails reach for miles without a curve. Although no breath of air seem.s to stir, a musical hum comes from the line of wires on telegraph poles along the right of way. Drawn tight by contraction of cold, the varied tones are often clearest on nights like this. Over the landscape lying under the segment of moon, are other lines of poles extend- ing in various directions, and their wires are also on the hum. Who can properly tell, of what telephones have meant, in those silent lands where neigh- bors are few and far between. The low hum of the wires leading into the house, is a comforting note to those around isolated firesides in winter, 184 WINDY DAYS AND CALM being a constant and comforting reminder of the close touch they now have with friends miles away thru the gripping cold. But the humming of these telegraph wires ! Sometimes it can be about the most mournful note on earth. Did you ever wait at a country railroad station, for an overdue train ? That little stereotyped waiting room — counterpart of a hundred more on the line — with a clock, which, if it moved at all, seemed to go backward. You read odds and ends, and studied maps on the wall; but the senses are never normal in a wait- ing room, so you finally entertained yourself by twirling your thumbs. The telegraph wires came thru the wall above the operators table, and an almost constant chat- ter was clicked off by the sounders. Occasionally there would be a sudden silence of the instru- ments, and loud humming of the wires, empha- sized by the stillness inside, made a note more mournful than pen can describe. For you was far from home, and had no friends in the small town. The semi-musical note, as it rose and 185 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP fell with the wind outside, brought up semi- pleasant thoughts and refletions. You were much interested in the reports which came over the humming wires, telling of the progress of the be- lated train. When at last the whistle came drift- ing down the line, the eagerness with which you gathered up your baggage was almost childlike. Your happy, smiling face, beaming from the car window as the train pulled out, was an inspira- tion to the inspection committee of the village, on duty along the depot wall. Breezes, more or less boisterous, cam.e and went, the seasons thru. This chapter would not be fitting to its title, did it not move in erratic gusts of words, after the manner of windy days and calm. A soft breeze makes audible the voices of grow- ing things, in and around the fields. Strong winds confuse and drown them in roaring blasts. The gentle murmur of prairie grass on an autumn day — have you forgotten it, old neighbor of many years ago? The rustle of corn leaves, varying according to the stage of growth. 186 WINDY DAYS AND CALM In the long ago, when cur new prairie homes stood with so little to shade and shelter them, the sound of wind whistling thru bare branches of young cottonwoods, gave some measure of satis- faction. It told of protection frcmi storm when they grew larger. In spring, when the buds be- gan to swell, a slightly different tone cam^e from the branches; and som^e fine day, when a stiff breeze was blowing from the south, there was a deep muffled tone. The leaves were open, shin- ing 'with a glittering tenderness. Soon they were ready for the strenuous life the summer winds would bring them, and to take dry and wet days as they cam^e. There would be times of deadly stillness, broken sud- denly by the rush of blinding rainstorm from the northwest, when the branches would bend low, and sometimes break under the strain. Perhaps there would be many days of hot south wind, compelling the corn leaves to curl up tightly to escape the heat. It was then that shade of the rows of cotton- woods, was appreciated by man and beast. To a 187 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP stranger riding thru the region, with no practi- cal knowledge of what is seen from the window of a Pullman, that which is said here might ap- pear to be a trivial matter. But those who have lived there — know. The prairies had their beauty, like the open sea; but a sailor, no m.atter how much he may love the water, yet longs for a harbor to protect him from storm or break the monotony of a long voyage. For similar reasons, we longed for "timber." Tonight, the kerosene lamp brings up little in the way of hint for a continuation of windy days and calm. Tired by the day's duties, the easy chair seems to be the most paying investment yet made, as far as dividend in solid comfort is concerned. Recollections, hazy and indistinct, without order or sequence, come and go. The senses, both physical and mental, are off duty. Even the melody of boat whistles, drifting over the Ohio, creates no interest. Thru an open window, a subtle something calls the sense of smell back on the job. It proves to be smoke from bonfires of the early spring 188 WINDY DAYS AND CALM yard rakings. The burning leaves and other cast off vegetation of last year, combined with the odor of swelling buds — what a combination to awaken the memory. All boyhood likes a bonfire, and it is possible that early prairie day boys would work harder in spring yard-cleaning time than usual, to get the award of bonfire privileges. Since there were no clearings of timber to make, and little waste of any kind to burn outside the stove, bon- fires were listed in the recreation column. During the first few years, however, tim^es came when boys suddenly lost interest in trash burning. Volumes of smoke arose in a long line beyond the horizon, toward which lay an almost uninterrupted area of native wild grass. There was excitement in all the households. If the wind should become stronger, there would be grave danger. This conflagration might leap all the "fire-breaks," and narrow roads. The afternoon wore away. After sunset, the approaching smoke columns glowed with reflected light of the flames yet out of sight. But soon the horizon line lay 189 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP dark and distinct against an everbrightening space above. All hearts sank as tongues of flame shot up all along the line. It was not a time to go to bed and court sweet dreams. But, just as it happens in all "thrillers," the wind fell; and the flames dropped to a simmering ribbon which died out as it burned to the dusty track of road extending for miles across the path of the fire. With a good wind, crossing that frail barrier would have been but the work of a moment. As the last of the line of flame reached the road, illumination of the sky faded away; and a darkness which meant happiness to many house- holds, settled over the plain. For this year, at least, danger of prairie fire is over. How strange it was to go out over that black- ened land next day. The perspective of every- thing was changed. It was like a desert of sand, with dead, sooty hue as far as the eye could reach. What few objects had been there to defy combustion, stood out with startling distinctness. Yonder the whitened skeleton of a horse, looked 190 WINDY DAYS AND CALM ghostly and uncanny. Little groups of eggs show- ed where birds of the prairie had nested to poor advantage. Wind and rain soon wore off the blackness. If strong breezes came before the rain, what sooty clouds they drove against us ! Then came the pleasure of watching the green of new prairie grass begin to tinge the dark, making times of fire danger seem far away. Since the sins of hum^an beings frequently re- ceive more renown than their good qualities, — especially when heralded by the prejudiced press of eastern states — so the good name of Nebraska and Kansas has been discounted by undue prom- inence being given to the winds. This tuber- culosis ridden Ohio valley, might envy those two prairie states their freedom from such an affliction, giving sunshine and wind, credit for a good share of it. " Just to go home. " Someone wrote a poem with that title, telling why it was worth all the cares and trials of the business day, just to gain the great pleasure of going home at night with a 191 UNDER THE ICEROSENE LAMP new appreciation of its quiet comfort. Whoever watches the supper-hour crowds of a city, will agree that the poem's sentiment must be more or less true to life. There was a parallel case out on those windy prairies. Trials and cares of a boisterous day, faded with the coming of blissful peace at its close. We could say that over our land was an aerial orchestra. When it crashed and boomed with windy discords, the theme was leading to a calm; that we might appreciate its beautiful harmony by contrast. 192 XIII ALONG THE FENCE LINES In Owen Wister's delightful story of the west, The Virginian,- where that realistic and grue- some chapter describes a horse thief hanging, it is related that they were strung up in a clump of cottonwoods; these being the only trees for miles around which were suitable for the purpose of the expedition. Not a word here which might put a ghostly halo around this variety of tree; but we wanted to remark that it would have been almost the only thing available for a lynching on Nebraska prairie also. Our pioneers found that life in the land of their earlier years, where timber must be cleared from the soil before a home could be made, and living in that new land where trees must be planted and grown before the place would seem like a home, became another matter which must be solved. 193 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP Those who had cleared out brush and trees in states further east, appreciated the clear, open acres, which saved them an axeman's toil. But especially during the winters, when the bleak raw prairie of dead brown had so little to break monotony of the view on all sides, longing came for some of those old home trees. And when the blizzards raged, thoughts of years in homes where timber broke the force of winter storms, caused sighs of regret. Other sighs came for the firewood old home trees had furnished. When it came to using cornstalks for fuel, which really did happen in some instance, visions of woodpiles with chip trimmings, came all unbidden. These reasons, together with provisions of the timber claim law, combined to give the cottonwood a boom. Soon young groves around the buildings, along lines between farms and bordering the roads, were making more or less of a showing. Some old photographs, made to send back to "the folks at home," give all aid memory needs to tell of them. How pitiably straggling those 194 ALONG THE FENCE LINES thin rows appear, emphasizing nswness of the land. The migrating artists made no attempt at pictorial effect. They can hardly be blamed for such shortcomings, as other requirements of the picture kept the photographer shrouded in grim responsibility. The view must show all the farm buildings, assembled live stock, machinery, hay and grain stacks, and last but not least, all members of the household including the hired help. It might with propriety, be called a wholesale photograph. As these were made on week days, all the folks, including the horses, generally appeared in their working harness. The care taken to promote growth of young cottonwoods, made them seem like som^ething more than mere vegetable organisms. For sim- plicity, the planting was all that could be desired. Sticking down a row of "cuttings," was about as easy as planting lead pencils to get a row of shade trees. Boxalders were their running mates, and cedars from the Platte were set out for ornamen- tation of the yards. 195 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP "Along the fence lines." What a big job it would be to follow them all, thru even a small territory. Take one county alone, such as our own York, with section lines crossing at every mile. Then add those on half mile divisions between quarters, and a portion of the individual farm fields. Suppose a row of trees stood on every line — but too many of the present generation would be shocked at such a suggestion. They have lost the tree-loving dispositions of the homesteaders, and are content with wire fence. "Trees on the fence lines and along highways ? rU say not ! They sap the ground awfully." Just now, it does not appear worth while to argue that they make up in other ways for the sapping of a strip of ground, leaving wind pro- tection and value of wood in the resource column. Government reports back up this statement. The sentiment is, "Cut down the trees along roads and between farms. Get the last row of corn up as close as possible to the fence. Farm every foot available. Taxes are high." 196 ALONG THE FENCE LINES You cannot argue with such people. What they need is a missionary to induce change of heart, and give a new outlook on life. So let us discuss the fence lines in other ways. Some years ago, an aspiring literary critic took William Dean Howells to task, for the simplicity of his very popular stories. This wiseacre dubbed them ''Fence corners of life," and said the world must not be satisfied with such crude things in its literature. The position of Mr. Fiowells in American Letters, has been too well established to suffer much from carpers of that calibre. We will at least assume, that a few remain, who might be interested in some simple things of the fence lines and secluded corners. Do you remember summer days after heavy rain, when it was too wet for work in the fields; therefore you took a hammer and went along the fences, to put in staples where cattle and horses had pulled wires loose in strenuous endeavor to get a few bites on the forbidden side. Is there not something in the memory of such a day, to 197 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP give pleasure in thought of fence lines ? In those places, the morning glory and wild rose secured a foothold. The rose flourished best on edges of the draw where the fence dipped down the in- cline. Was there ever a sweeter scent than it gave the pure, clear air over the rain-drenched earth. Wild lilies were at home along the bottom, in the bed of silt deposited by the washing of spring rains. The Cottonwood row, gradually increased in height as it descended the draw, thus showing its true nature as a low ground tree. The tops made almost a straight line, like that of a railroad grade crossing a similar depression. Sometimes, when following the plow up and down the corn rows, monotony settled like a pall over the scene. This made one more likely to observe small details in the way of stray flowers and other things along the fence to give the mind something to feed upon, while the team "blowed." If only there was a market for the host of idle thoughts and fancies, which pass thru the mind during hours in the field. They may truthfully 198 ALONG THE FENCE LINES be called day dreams, and the argument that the farmer has opportunity for self culture, appears to be plausible. With an obedient, well trained team, and a Nebraska soil free from rocks or stumps, it did not require much mental effort to follow the plow. Alone from sun to sun, and no one near with whom to talk, or anything exciting to wit- ness, it was only natural to lock at the morning glory, inhale the perf um^e of wild roses, or even study spider webs and anthills. During the long week, when duties were irk- some to the prairie boys, the vista of the creek valley a couple of miles away, had an alluring charm. Possibly the week was a windy one, mak- ing again for monotony in the round of field work. Just then, a Saturday afternoon holiday meant a good deal. With a few simple leaded lines and hooks, and a nickel's worth of lean beef from the local butcher shop, hope and contentment all centered on chances of enticing the catfish from cool retreats in shaded spots along Lincoln creek. For unadulterated excitemicnt, it was not equal 199 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP to the annual trip to the Blue, but was more fre- quently attained, and had interesting features of its own for boys. To follow the winding creek, from the bridge over it at one section line to that at the next one, was a source of enjoyment. The same stream always, but in new shapes under changing lights and shades at every turn. Now thru a stretch of pasture, all in the open and bright sunlight. Then under the trees which came down close to the water's edge, with probably a high bank close on one side. Here, all was so quiet, that it was the place to stop and listen to calls of birds up or down stream, and the tinkle of a cowbell. We didn't use bells in the pastures on higher ground away from the creek, for our cows hadn't a chance on earth to hide. One can feel a personal acquaintance with a creek — can know all the little things about it, necessary to give a feeling of friendship. Some- one has said, "A river is too distant, too much of an institution, and too little an individual." It has a powerful facination, but is too far beyond 200 ALONG THE FENCE LINES anything human, to have a common tie where- with to meet in playful mood. Along these small prairie streams, the boys cast calculating and artistic eye; to "compose" landscapes for the camera. Here they learned by disappointment in results, that all which is glittering green, does not come out as gold in a photograph. They came to realize that a cool, shady dell, is not a place for amateurs to produce their masterpiecees. It was here also, they learned that after the leaves had fallen, was the time to study a phase of beauty in trees, which could not be had when leaf masses hid trunk and branches. A tree is picturesque at any stage of its life, and even of decay down to rotting logs-— a thing no animal life can be. The artist is glad when he can so arrange that a dead tree will come into the fore- ground of his picture, but the bones or skeleton of some dead animal would be carefully rem.oved from a similar location. Who does not like to loaf around a woodpile, and who would care to dally with a pile of bones? 201 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAIVTP Those who follow fence lines of the farm and range, observe many things concerning animal life in the silent places. In watching cattle and sheep in the pasture or on a range, there is al- ways interest in the study of their movements and doings, when left entirely to their own de- vices. Feeding with heads all turned one way, then without a command or signal, in five min- utes the entire herd may be moving in the oppo- site direction; grazing as peacefully as ever, and without a mouthful of grass being lost. Early in the morning, when they lie close to- gether in the corral, or on some favorite spot near the feeding ground, there is yet more inter- est in watching them rise at leisure and move out along the paths for a day's feeding. Why is it that they seem to m^ake a direct line for some spot today, and tomorrow head straight for an- other ? Their mental processes are beyond the understanding of man. Then to watch the paths develop on a new range. First, scattering lines of tracks, all lead- ing in a general direction. Next, the paths of 202 ALONG THE FENCE LINES least resistance seem to be figured out in some way, and certain routes begin to deepen and be- come the thoroughfares, which even human stragglers can follow with assurance. In spite of the fact that these herds are merely so much meat on the hoof, coolly calculated in dollars and cents, silence of the pastures the day after shipping, strikes a note hard to define in detail. After watching for several months the varied antics of a flock of spring lambs, care free, and with apparently a well developed sense of humor, vigorously expressed— who dees not feel just a little pang of sadness when he views the deserted playgrounds. All will be a brooding stillness until spring comes again, and another bunch is turned out to indulge in a constant suc- cession of field day sports. No very extended reverie about days along the fence lines, could get far without something com- ing in concerning the horse. Whoever, in early years, has spent days and weeks and months with them as sole companions, could not forget his faithful friends. 203 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP In the multitude of western stories of recent years, it has been a point with their authors to make clear the hero's kindness to his horse; and often the villain is loaded with it also. The idea is a good one. When a horse falls on a crowded street, men step out to help him up or give advice, who would never be suspicioned of knowing anything but bank stocks and big business. Their early farm training, and a heart they might not be credited with having, all unite in making them useful to the truck driver. The faithful horse and his reward — no — "Be good and you will be happy," does not always reach into his life. Listen, kind lady, while we tell of a mistreated horse. It was a cloudy and dreary day in November, with a chilling mist settling over the fields. The last vestige of green, is gone from the closely cropped prairie pastures. Until the long winter and early spring months have passed, horses and cattle must be content on dry feed. Did you ever notice in the spring, when new green had 204 ALONG THE FENCE LINES begun to show in spots over the pasture, an old horse who had gotten thru the winter in sorry shape, now picking around trying to get a Uttle of the tender grass, which would be a veritable elixir of life to his toil-worn body. On this dreary, late fall day, a request had come to take an animal of such description, out of a pasture and kill him. He was twenty-five years old, and had passed a hard life of abuse and overwork at the hands of unappreciative masters. There was no record of their number, but it is safe to say that many had left their mark in unmistakable characters. The instruments for the operation — a halter and a rifle, were secured. At the pasture gate, he came ambling up, shaking as with ague from the chilly mist. But when the halter was placed on his head, he gave a low whinny of joy; for his idea seemed to be that a warm., dry place was at hand, possibly with some tender hay and soaked corn that his shattered teeth could chew. Yes, old horse; you was right. It was the mission that day, to make you comfortable, by 205 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP doing the very best thing for you under the cir- cumstances. It was not exactly what you were expecting, but stern reality dictated. And the command was carried out — not in the spirit of merely getting a worthless carcass out of the way, but with full respect for the years of useful toil you had faithfully given to man. He followed willingly, and as coltishly as his infirmities would allow. We reached an unfre- quented spot a half mile away. The afternoon was dark and dreary enough to fit mxst any kind of a crime. There was no reproaching conscience. It was thru no fault of the executioner, that the victim showed so plainly the effect of years of overwork and rough treatment. There were bumps and knobs all over him, accumulated in the various ways toil gives them to a horse. On his shoul- ders were white patches of hair, telling of raw flesh under the collar, making him wince as he went the endless rounds in the furrows of the fields under the hot sun, with torturing flies to fight at every step. 206 ALONG THE FENCE LINES Standing there in that silent and secluded spot, wornout, discarded, but with the power yet left to suffer physically — a thing which nature gives all her creatures until the last — there was some- thing in the injustice of it all, which made him seem a representative of countless wronged ani- mals mutely appealing their woes. It was not the fact that he was to be shot, which made for any appearance of injustice. The mawkish sentiment which lays disapproval on putting aged animals out of the way, counts for nothing of benefit to the victim. Let us pass details of the execution, leaving that for our enterprising newspapers when the next bandit is hung or electrocuted. Even if it had been an old horse who had been the family pet for a lifetime, and whose coat had always been slick and shiny, it is not supposed that the mem- bers of the household would enjoy taking a day off to go out and have a picnic in honor of kill- ing old Charlie; or quarrel over the privilege of firing the fatal shot. Years of experience with horses, does not leave one with a high opinion 207 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP. as to their general range ol intelligence. But no one needs to be told of their sensitiveness in the things of physical makeup, which cause suffer- ing from heat and cold, hunger and thirst — the four things which also make the problem of ex- istance for the human race. When, tired by a day's labor in the field, man and horse start homeward together, man for the time being is little more than a tired animal seek- ing rest. If he be in any degree conscientious, his own aching muscles bring a sense of compas- sion for the tired horses who have toiled all day with him. The man who will neglect a tired team after a day's work, will bear watching; for he has a crooked streak somewhere. 208 XIV SILENT TRAILS There is one silent trail which has not suffer- ed decay or ruin since its desertion by man, and that is the Ohio river. Practically, it is an un- used waterway. While coal "fleets" yet carry large cargces, the total volume of traffic as com- pared with days long past, is so small that the few boats seen now only emphasize desertion of the great stream. What the future will be when the new series of dams now under construction, gets into action and maintains a barge stage dur- ing periods of low water, is not under discussion in this chapter. To watch the Ohio during a cycle of seasons — how many different stream.s it appears to be un- der varying lights and shades of spring, summer, autumn and winter. Under the bright sky of a June day, with those beautiful green hills fading into hazy distance, it is not the same stream one 209 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP sees under a full moon the following night. Then, the hills are but outlines in black against the sky, with shining stars above; and the stream, with movement of the current nearly hidden by the soft light, seems more like a long lake between mountain ranges. And at sundown, to watch the gradual trans- formation from the river of day to that dream of the June night. While the sky is yet full of soft twilight, the Ohio is at its prettiest. Free from all reflecting glare of the sun, every little break on the surface is brought out by delicately color- ed hues from the western horizon, or evening clouds above. The ruffled patches of shallow water over the sandbars; the w^hirling eddies and arrow-pointed wakes at sterns of motor boats, or the boiling line churned up by steamers — all stand out in sharp relief, tinted by the sky with a softness no artist could equal. As the twilight deepens, and movements of the current become indistinct, it gives the effect of the stream coming to rest for the night like a thing of life — a life resistful and unyielding to 210 "It is but a small strain on the imagination to put rr.ules back on the towpath." -page 212 SILENT TRAILS any efforts of man to control it. There is a fac- ination for many people in watching the current, increased no doubt, by knowledge of its great volume. Although classed among silent trails, as far as real importance in navigation is con- cerned at present, it is yet the grand old river of other days, ready for whatever the future may hold in store for it. Thru Indiana and Ohio, the old canals which once connected lake Erie with the big river, still furrow the valleys and wind along bases of the hills. In some places, just a scar shows where commerce of the new states passed back and forth. In other places, the old ditch lies just as it did when water was last shut off at the reservoirs. Between Dayton and Cincinnati, the sleepy cur- rent yet drifts along; and the towpath does duty as a road for foot passengers and bicycles. A stroll along a section of this old canal, pass- ing here and there rotting locks and spillways, a sunken barge or other relic of those times, takes one back a little from the rush and roar of trol- ley cars and speeding trains. It is but a small 211 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP strain on the imagination to put mules on the towpath; especially as the canal still has friends, who keep trying to revive its days of usefulness. It is an odd situation — this argument between those who believe that the old ditch should be filled up, and those who argue for its enlarge- ment to carry today's traffic. In our first days on the Nebraska plain, while yet the prairie lay unbroken, there were deserted thoroughfares, impressive in their significance. Deeply rutted by rains and weathering, routes of the hardy ones who had passed by wagon years before to the Rockies or beyond, showed sharply in relief against the short grass to the horizon. In the silence of these old trails, thought of the slow and tedious grind, day after day, with unavoid- able privation and suffering, always gave the old highways a touch of the weird. Now, the West, in appreciative remembrance, is marking the line with inscribed granite, and beginning to take pride in its history. Farther west, are deserted trails of another sort; telling graphically of man s struggle to estab- 212 SILENT TRAILS lish paths for bands of steel in the mountain wilderness. In Colorado, Utah and Nevada, are many miles of abandoned roadbed with ties still in place, or their imprint showing plainly if removed. Here and there old piling where a bridge stood, with some cf the old timbers in decay thereon. At curves along the mountain side, whistling posts with traces of white paint yet remaining. And of all things ! — a sign faintly legible— "Lock Out For The Cars." Strolling along one of these old grades, or thru a "cut" high up on the forested slope, gives the imagination a full diet to digest. While many miles of this phantom railroad have been replac- ed by lines located from better surveys, many other miles are in decay because their usefulness is over. In some of the old mining towns, a de- serted depot with the trackless roadbed leading from it out thru the canon, brings thoughts of endless dramas, in which such thrilling titles as "The Rise and Fall of a Mining Town," might keep a dozen film companies busy, if all of its history could be told. 213 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP What a romance could have been handed down from the grading and construction camps of those pioneer lines. Rough men, a rough life, and a rough, hard task. With every crudely marked grave on the hillsides along the way, how much interesting history may be buried. When one reared in a land of trees, grass and running streams, stands alone for the first time in a stretch of western desert country, with no sound from any point reaching the ear, and real- izes that he is the only living thing within the circle of silence, his feeling is intense, but not to be described in words. If a little sage brush happens to be in sight, it only intensifies the feeling of being the whole thing. Thru the window of a Pulhnan, the average tourist idly watches lonely stretches in Arizona and New Mexico. Even such soil as that varies in worth. In the last stage of fertility, comes the herder and his sheep; his tent a white spot out in the sage brush and catcus, with his flock scattered around it. The herder, standing like a statue, watches the train go by. 214 SILENT TRAILS "Arizona Nights," indeed ! If this shepherd of the desert had Hterary talent, what tales he might tell of the stillness, which the coyote's yelp only intensifies and deepens, Out there, if you have a job which would drive a white man insane — get a Mexican. Long days and weeks and months in the midst of such uncanny vegetation, with scatterings of a little which the sheep will eat, is no calling for any man who knows there is an inhabited world. We had a loneliness in early prairie days, but it was not of the desert brand. Some, though, goaded by homesickness, were known to have called York county a second Sahara. But they stayed just the same, and in due time, joined the Booster Club. Once more the long line of snow covered peaks, shows in sharp relief above the purple-black foot- hills, while the Burlington train is yet a couple of hours out of Denver. The sun, although not above ths eastern horizon as seen from a car win- dow, is bathing the old sentinels with a soft glow. The snow line, half way down their sides 215 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP for a hundred miles or more, ends so evenly and abruptly that it looks much like a carefully ap- plied coat of paint. Reaching the city, the view down Sixteenth street toward the range, shows a section of moun- tain white looking much like a circus tent placed across the street a number of blocks away. A few creased and dark lines strengthen the illusion. But as the sun mounts higher, its strong light clears the air and all deception ends. Far from the turmoil, that clear cut line of the peaks be- yond the foothills, lies stately with the silence of ages; giving emphasis to noise of the street, and unspeakable dignity to the heights beyond. The sixty or seventy years of man's struggle for mastery in the region, is only a moment in the geological life of The Continental Divide. The snowy summits, high in the pure, clear air, are independent of man s coming and going, or any of his erratic doings. During the afternoon of the same day, at an hour when the street is crowded with shoppers and vehicles, a team of oxen advertising a dairy 216 SILENT TRAILS concern, is driven at their customary leisurely gait down the thoroughfare, thereby attracting much attention. In a flash, sight of the slow-moving pair brings back the memory of a journey made about forty- four years ago. From York to the Platte, our route then followed the valley of this shallow, sandy, island-dotted stream., to this same Denver. Hardly the same, if physical makeup only is con- sidered. But in the eyes of a very small boy see- ing street cars, [horse drawn,] for the first time, it looked larger than at present. An ox team furnished miotive power for the pioneer day trip also. True, horses had been invented some years before, and were used, al- most exclusively for such overland journsys. But for some experimental reason or other, the time- honored ox was selected. Saying the least, it was a bitter piece of irony to christen the expedi- tion a pleasure trip. In the fifties, some had even crossed to California by persistently prod- ding the patient ox. What they called their trips, might not be fit to print. 217 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP At the time of this ox-power jaunt to the mountains, the Platte valley and adjacent coun- try surely had some silent trails. When the re- gion of scant rainfall in eastern Colorado was slowly and tediously being traversed, to a very youthful mind in the party, it seemed a dead certainty that the end of the earth was being approached. Once, a day's journey showed no sign of hu- man habitation. Nothing but endless monotony of the plain, broken occasionally by low bluffs, or a dry creek with clumps of cotton woods and brush at irregular intervals. The glare of the sun put a ghostly weirdness into the scene, and helped to make it appear as part of an unfinished world. A solitary ranch house with low out buildings and high corrals, only intensified the general depressing effect. To the small boy, all this was an impressive thing, but he had a fever of impatience burning within. Since the beginning of the journey, the thought that he was actually to see mountains with snow on them in summer, had almost put 218 SILENT TRAILS him in a state of unaccountability for his actions. At times when dark storm clouds loomed at sun- set, and the wagon was chained down to prevent its being shoved into the river by terrific wind which came with the thunder and lightning and blinding sheets of rain, his little bed back home would have been a welcome spot. And when the ox-drawn wagon was put in with a dozen or so horse-drawn ones, traveling together in socialistic state for protection against bands of marauding Indians who happened to be causing trouble just then, and when companies of soldiers in the old army blue were met, the youngster was pop-eyed with fear lest there were not enough soldiers to exterminate the redskins. How on earth could anyone call that a pleasure excursion honest and true? At last came a morning when a dark, undulat- ing line with some sharp points, lay on the west- ern horizon. The highest places in the line had white clouds hiding part of them. No ! — they then told the boy that the mountain range was in sight at last, and snow was hiding the tops of 219 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP the peaks. When he asked if the wagons would reach them by dinner time, he wondered why everybody laughed so hard. Told that it would be three days or more at the rate the party was traveling, before they would be reached, he re- signed himself as best might be to the slow pace the caravan seemed bound to adopt; little realiz- ing that the range was seventy-five miles or more away. At camping time that night, the prospect was discouraging. The peaks did not show as plainly as they did in the morning. All the next day, there was nothing in sight on the horizon except the usual scattering of lonesom^e and forlorn low, sandy hills. Even the third morning and fore- noon revealed nothing. But in the afternoon, a distant bank of thick, cloud-like haze was thin- ning; and outlines of the peaks, now looming in a way which almost scared the boy, gradually grew stronger in the clearing sky. That night, when camp was made just out- side of Denver, the sun sank behind a majestic mass, fringed with cloud and color. The long, 220 SILENT TRAILS tedious days behind the ox team, the Indian and the storms were all forgotten in wild anticipation of mountain days to come. It now began to look more like a pleasure excursion. Going over the same route today in an auto- mobile instead of behind an ox team, it is evident that this trail has not become a silent one after so many years. And what is mere, there is no chance for the old highway to get a nap in the future.. Nebraska people are never going to tire of a spin to Colorado's parks, with a roadful of transient cars with which to dispute the way. A trip behind an ox team, and one behind a motor that never tired — what a contrast. Eagerness of the prairie boy to see snow in summer, is equalled every day on the Denver- bound trains, by grown-up folks from eastern states, who have never before seen the barrier which brings such an abrupt ending to the great stretch of plain. Who does not like to follow a trail, whether it be only a simple path thru the grass, a road winding along a stream, or one leading far into 221 UNDER THE KEROSENE LAMP the hills. All memories of past life lead along silent trails. The farther back, the more dim the trail becomes. After a long and toilsome climb up a mountain pass, one pauses to look at the road yet in view far below, over which he toiled willingly in the morning sun, with a new interest at every turn of the way. There may be chilly winds at the summit, but in the valley ahead at the trail's end, can be seen silver lakes and ribbons of streams; made more alluring by knowledge of their delectable camp- ing places in the stillness of sheltered nooks. By the campfire, looking back at the looming mass over which lies the trail, memory brings pictures of the road beyond the pass — route of the morn- ing climb. The expectancy, or anticipation and interest in what would be seen during the day, all combine to carry camp reflections back to the start at dawn. There comes a time in middle life, when days of youth are yet fresh in mind like those of the climb over the mountain pass. But with a few 222 SILENT TRAILS years more of distance added, taking the traveler farther down into the valley of later life where he hopes to find a peaceful camping place, he begins to lose details concerning his state of mind when all of life's winding road lay ahead. Days when the Bluestem waved gracefully above the shorter prairie grass, come back to those who knew Nebraska when section lines were disregarded, and the trail-like road went across at any angle convenient for the shortest route to the hopeful county seats. There was no climb over the pass to make. No difficulty other than a few mud holes where the way had been led thru a basin. Today, our excellent highways, strictly con- ventional and true to lines of the checker-board survey, make more for a comparison to exagger- ated city blocks than anything else. Old roads of our prairie days are gone. For a view of them we must go back in memory to the great realm of silent trails. NO ROAD 223