'(ohe PAN AME:RICAN UNION JOHN BARRETT : : Director General FRANCISCO J. YANES : Assistant Director MEXICO THE CITY OF PALACES Reprinted from the April, 1918, issue of the Bulletin of the Pan American Union n ) nu WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1918 PAT AfFS' C'^'KING o'er a vale of antiquities from the top of a great pyramid at the close of a perfect autumn day, as was the writer's experience, casts a meditative spell over the thought- ful mind. A pyramid itself is of sufficient interest to absorb one's attention, but the Toltecs and the people who came before and after them into the beautiful valley of Anahuac builded so enduringly and over such a wide area that we are truly lost in con- tem])lating their many works. Mexico's Pyramid of the Sun, although to-day its apex stands slightly more than 200 feet above the surrounding country, provides a favorable point from which to view the valley in which Mexico City lies. The P^^ramid of the Sun, the greatest of its kind in the western world, may be said to be analogous to Cheops, which OA^ershadows the valley of the Nile, a few miles from the chief city of Egypt. Mexico and Cairo, then, might be appropriately termed the world's pyramid capitals, with clusters of these marvels standing sentinel-like near their gates. On opposite sides of the earth were the ancient builders of pyramids, yet we have no positive assurance that either army of workers had any knowledge of the existence of the other. The Orientals worked amid the drifting sands of a sun-parched land, slightly moistened by the Nile; while those who constructed Mexico's colossal monu- ments chose a high and fruitful valley liberally watered by great lakes and small streams. A view of Anahuac, or the valley of Mexico, as modern peoples- know this picturesque region, reveals at present a somewhat changed surface, and only a few large lakes are left of what in prehistoric years may have been an inland sea dotted with islands. This valley of Anahuac, about 60 miles long and 30 miles wide, is surrounded by mountains, some of whose peaks are continually capped with snow, while in the lowlands tropical fruits and flowers are features of vegeta- ble life. The altitude of this valley varies from 5,000 to 8,000 feet, and there prevails, consequently, a climate of perpetual spring, the thermometer registering a mean annual temperature of about 59° F. in the vicinity of the capital. May is the hottest month of the year with an average temperature of 64° F. ; December is the coolest, the average of the thermometer being about 53° F. Between these months the Mexican valley experiences its season of rains, which, beginning with the warmer May days, gradually grow to maximum and diminish by the end of autumn. The change in temperature By Wm. A, Reid, of Pan American Union staff. 0. •t B. -^ p^ A 1 fo Oj-j o ■3 cS J H °t W Eh O o3 rt g§ O W Sg o g^ <^ §2 1^ <1 ^^^ Ph III <1 0^-73 ^ 2^ Sis o gs° hr-^ oj H fl go -< ■■§=^P. §o| 6 11^ 9':S3 C3 g o en'* '3 3 m£ " do MoS ^ -: ' fl «a JM Ss ^i^.4^ !«•. :te3 ' i'i^ ^ 1 * 1 ' : '>'^ HKy^^E«l ^ n ■ 4 i 1 ■. . ■ fi " "53'' -a** -; ^i»«» . _««• •i'w ^»«sAi fl -■-i '/ •■" ■-■ ^Pt*^?'" ■: Ji» |. ■.•4; ' '*>i< iifc- I r mm •1 >*5 V|^ i%A« K,^^E^ 4HB7 ■1 w i .A^IH Hl.. ^wrmaS^^ ^ "s "o g o o «.g I 6 MEXICO; THE CITY OF PALACES. varies only a few degrees diiriiig the year, but is especially marked between sun and shade and between night and day. Usually in Mexico City the midday sun is hot, but the shade is rather cool; with the coming of darkness the air cools quickly and light wraps are comfortable. The name Anahuac, which means "near the water," may refer to the lakes in the region of the present City of Mexico, while Toltec was the name applied to the early inhabitants. These migratory people, it is recorded, appeared in the valley of Anahuac in 648 A. D. There seems to be no story of the people who antedated the Toltecs, but history does show that the Toltecs disappeared from Anahuac about 1051 A. D., and a hundred and some years later, or about 1170 A. D., the Chichimecas made their appearance. Then came the Aztecs or Mexicans to Tula (50 miles north of Mexico City) and other members of the great Nahuatlan family who began found- ing cities and erecting temples and palaces in the valley of Mexico. In 1325 Tenochtitlan, or Mexico City, was founded by the Aztecs. This event occurred nearly 200 years before Cortez arrived on the scene. The story runs that the Aztec god, Huitzilopochtli, had warned his people that they should not stop their wanderings until they found an eagle perched on a cactus eating a serpent. When they reached the shore of Lake Texcoco they saw on a little island in the lake an eagle perched on a cactus with a serpent in his talons; so there they rested, and their Chief said to them, " Here our wanderings shall cease; here you shall found a great city." This is said to have occurred July 18, 1325. These Aztecs then and there began to construct huts on piles in the shallow lake. Their reason for choosmg homes over the water must have been a precautionary measure against annoyance or attack by animals or by other migratory human beings. At that time, from various accounts, it appears that Lake Texcoco spread considerably farther westward than is the case to-day; or, in other words, its shore line during intervening centuries has receded, so that the present heart of Mexico City is several miles from the border of this beautiful sheet of water. Thus, we may draw on the imagination for a glimpse of the begin- ning of Mexico City. The name given to the settlement, as already mentioned, was Tenochtitlan, which means "place where the cactus is on the rock." This title, however, appears to have been changed at an early date to Mexico, in honor of the war god, Mexitli; and it is recorded that by 1450 many of the earlier houses built of rushes and mud, etc., on the shore of Lake Texcoco had been replaced by more pretentious structures of stone. Passing over many years of stirring events and various eras of primitive construction, we find that the Aztecs had attained a high state of splendor when the Span- iards came to invade the country. History shows that the place 64096—18 2 10 MEXICO, THE CITY OP PALACES. had from 50,000 to 60,000 houses, a population of something like 300,000, and a circumference of about 12 miles. The chief of the Aztecs, the first Montezuma (or Moctezuma), died about 17 years before the arrival of Cortes and his fellow adven- turers, Montezuma II was ruling over the Aztecs when the Spanish invaders reached the present site of Mexico City, after a long and memorable pilgrimage from the shore of the Gulf of Mexico. Their surprise must have been great when they first beheld the Aztec capital, for the city is described as havmg been in a high state of development, but of an entbely different nature from that of Euro- pean civilization. The splendors of the city and its evident wealth and luxury doubtless first aroused in the Spanish adventurers the desire to dispossess the Montezumas and to conquer the country. Passing over the days of the Spanish Conquest and coming down \^ to the present, we find Mexico's capital located in a Federal District having an area of 579 square miles. The city proper covers about 15 square miles. For admmistrative purposes this District is further divided into 13 municipalities, of which Mexico City is one. At the head of the Federal District government is a superior council com- posed of a governor, a director of public works, and a president of the board of health. All are appointed by the Chief Executive, but they act under the Department of the Interior. The governor is the political authority and he enforces laws and decrees, commands the police, fire department, etc., and is charged with the operation of public utilities, the inspection of weights, measures, etc. The director of public works looks after the water supply, streets, parks, lighting the city, markets, and allied activities affectmg the public; while the duties of the president of the board of health are indicated by the title of the office. Each of the three officials is separately responsible for the conduct of his department. Sittmg together as the superior council they may annul or revise the action of any one of the constituent members thereof. The Department of the Interior may annul or revise the action of the superior council itself. Each of the 13 municipalities, including the City of Mexico, has also its own ayuntamiento, or local council, composed of men elected by popular vote for a four-year term. A councillor must be at least 25 years of age and a Mexican citizen. Probably the city's most important municipal undertaking was the construction of a canal to drain the valley in which the city stands. Begun in the 16th century, it was many years in course of construc- tion. A special board renewed efforts in 1886 and carried the enter- prise to consummation by 1900. We have referred to the valley as having no natural outlet; by drain pipes, canals, and a tunnel, however, the surplus waters of the valley and lakes, as well as the underground sewerage of the capital, are carried beyond the encircling 14 MEXICO, THE CITY OF PALACES. hills and moimtaiiis. A wat.n'works system, utilizing the springs of adjacent mountains, supplies the city to-day with an abundance of pure water and also Hushes the canals, aided partly by mechanical pressure. The whole system has cost the municipality more than S5,000,000. Mexico City's streets run north and south and east and west, with many new and broad avenues that offer interesting contrasts to the narrow streets or ''callejons" constructed in former eras. They are usually level and the newer ones well paved or constructed in accordance with modern street paving methods. On older streets the long popular cobble stones are still to be seen. The beautiful avenue known as the Paseo de la Reforma, stretching about 3 miles from the city proper to the Hill of Chapultepec, is a model of its kind. Many of the world's avenues were examined and studied by a Mexican street commission, and numerous points of utility or excellence were adopted for the Paseo de la Reforma. Along this unusually broad avenue are half a dozen or more great circles, or "glorietas," in some of which magnificent statues have already been erected, while on the sides at intervals are placed smaller statues of modern or historical heroes. A double line of beautiful eucalyptus and other trees add shady patches here and there along the course, while the private lawns and flower beds on either side provide other features that make this one of the world's most attractive and interesting avenues. The streets of Mexico City are somewhat puzzling to the stranger. For instance, CaUe San Francisco, now the Avenue Francisco I. Madero, always a popular thorouglifare with native or guest, had different sections, as First San Francisco, Second San Francisco, etc., according to the location of a certain block. This ancient system was changed a few years ago and all streets from east to west were desig- nated as avenues; those running north and south became streets or "calles," and in each case a single name was bestowed on the entire thoroughfare. Legend and tradition are strong, however, and many people appear to prefer the older order of street designation, except in cases of some of the new avenues. Mexicans also cling to patriotic names, like Calle Cinco de Mayo for instance, which is the date they won a victory over the French (May 5, 1862) at Puebla. We also find the Spanish equivalent for such street names as lUustrious Men, Sad Indian, Walking Priest, Lost Child, Bridge of the Raven, The Watch, etc. There are nearly 1,000 streets and "lanes." At the outward end of the Paseo stands the castle of Chapultepec, constructed on the crest of a high natural bluff, from which one may enjoy a magnificent view of the city and surrounding region, a winding roadway leads from the lower level to the top of this "Hill of the Grasshopper," as it is called; and along the route on stones are figures and hieroglyphics made by the Aztecs or their predeces- sors. At one point on this road we pass a cavelike opening which is ^**i'^"iii;l^Fl If HEADQXTARTERS OF THE POLICE UEPAKTMENT OF MEXICO CITY. THE DEPARTMENT OF COMMUNICATIONS AND PUBLIC WORKS, MEXICO CITY. This fine edifice is indicative of the numerous pubhc buildings of the more modern type, which have been erected in the Mexican capital during recent years. 18 MEXICO, THE CITY OF PALACES. the entrance to an underground passage to the top of the hill, which is said to have been a secret route of ascent in olden days. This interior passage is closed to-day to visitors, but years ago an elevator was constructed in one part of the passage which has been frequently used by the presidents. Once upon the crest of Chapultepec, 200 feet above the city, the traveler is charmed, not alone by the views but by the way nature and man have combined forces to produce the unusual, the interest- ing, and the picturesque. On the Pyramid of the Sun, of which we have spoken, all is ancient work; on Chapultepec a great modern castle and fortress stands, a portion of which has long served as the summer re idence of the President of the Kepublic. From Chapultepec we have what might be termed a close view of the capital city — much closer than from the pyramid's crest. At the immediate base of the hill stands the Bosque or forest of fine old cypress trees overshadowing miles of drives and walks, with here and there hanging baskets of moss and vines arranged by nature herself. On the edge of this historical setting the Chapultepec restaurant has been erected, and so popular has this resort become that in late afternoons or evenings the ehte of capital society may be found there sipping the tea of the Orient, domestic chocolate, or partaking of some of the best food to be found in tne city. The roads are crowded with motor cars, carriages, and slow-moving pedes- trians, all out for pleasure and recreation, and for the time being forgetful of the more serious side of life. Another famous hill in the suburbs of Mexico is that of Guadalupe, and in visiting its sacred precincts we pass over an ancient causeway rich in legendary lore, and along which modern electric cars are now operated. High on Guadalupe's crest a chapel stands which is closely related to the history of the colonial period of the capital. At the base of the hill is the famous shrine of Guadalupe. Still another interesting sight, especially for the visitor, is the old tree in the suburb of Tacuba under which Cortes sat and wept on the nigJit of July 1, 1520, when he and his troops were so terribly defeated by the Aztecs. The tree is a species of cypress, and some years ago a fanatic attempted its destruction by starting a fire at its base, but the prompt arrival of officers prevented the tree's destruc- tion. To-day a high iron fence surrounds this relic of the past which has long weathered the ravages of time. It is called the ' ' tree of the sad night," or, in Spanish, "el arbol de la noche triste." In Coyeacan, another suburb of the capital, stands one of the homes of Cortes, still in a fair state of preservation and in use as a public office building. To the stranger the ancient structures of Mexico City are far more interesting than those of recent date. We have space for only a glance at a few of the most noteworthy. The site of the A, mmi i|Ti THE NORMAL SCHOOL IN MEXICO CITY FOR THE TRAINING OF TEACHERS AND PROFESSORS. ,r*f^.j in ! w llllill M I'fl [1 fl I , I g I i B l| I THE NATIONAL GEOLOGICAL INSTITUTE, MEXICO CITY. THE "GLORIETA" OF CHAPULTEPKC. Here we have a striMng illustration of the work of nature and man. The great tree standing in the foreground measures many feet in circumference, as is e^^denced by the human chain drawn around its base. In the background one catches a glimpse of a beautiful marble monument. Both of these features of beauty are admired by all visitors, as well as by citizens. "".^i fi»&»i5a3&t'*t»-^ ^'»?- -~» THE SCHOOL OF MINES, ONE OF THE FAMOUS SCIENTIFIC INSTITUTIONS OF THE MEXICAN CAPITAL. Strangers visiting this institution will be especially interested in the display of minerals and in the numerous specimens of the geological formation of the country. Many well-known engineers of Mex- ico and other countries have studied their profession here. 22 MEXICO, THE CITY OF PALACES. Aztec ruler's teocalli or temple is occupied by the present cathedral, a massive structure 37-i feet long and 198 feet wide, containing marble altare, silver rails, and priceless paintings and tapestries. This great structure was started in 1573 and was many years in construction. Architecturally it is said to be "composite." The lower part is Doric, above this is exaggerated Ionic, while the higher parts are Corinthian. The facade, from which rise two towers each 204 feet high, is divided into three divisions which rep- resent the three Greek orders. Gray stone and white marble were used largely in building this cathedral. Another side of the Plaza Mayor is occupied to-day by the National Palace, the official home of the President of the Republic and various other Government officers. On the site of this palace Cortes built a home, which was destroyed in 1692. The present edifice was begun shortly after that date and has been enlarged from time to time. Over the main entrance hangs the liberty bell of Mexico, which was rung in 1810 by Hidalgo to call his fellow countrymen to arms. Volumes have been written about the National Museum of Mexico City. Truly, it is one of the world's greatest storehouses of aboriginal art; and scholars from every part of the earth have visited, marveled, and studied amid this vast collection. On the first floor stand the giant monoliths. The famous Calendar Stone, long embedded in the foundation of the cathedral, was removed to the museum in 1886; the Sacrificial Stone is another wonder, with its basin and channel, the latter supposedly to carry off the blood of its victims. The Sad Indian, dug up from one of the city streets in 1828, is another ancient work. The God of Fire is still another notable figure pre- served at the museum, as are thousands of other rehcs of bygone peoples. A visit to Mexico City's floating gardens, or, more properly speak- ing, to La Viga Canal, is a memorable experience, especially if the trip be made on Sunday. It is time well spent if one would know the humbler type of Mexican, catch a gfimpse of his life and pro- pensities, and to note his skill as a flower producer and salesman. Mexico City, as we have observed, lies near several lakes — Zumpango, Xaltocan, and San Cristobal on the north, Texcoco on the east; while Chalco and Xochimilco lie south of the city. La Viga and other canals connect lakes and city; and it is on these waterways that so many flowers grow, hence the name of floating gardens seems quite appropriate. Amid flower-bedecked boats passing and repassing, the boatmen pole their visitor along this unique watercourse ; some- times for a few extra centavos a guitar player and a singer may be engaged, thus adding a romantic feature to the Venice-like experience. Architecture of Mexico City ranges from the very ancient to the most modern construction art. After the arrival of Cortes the build- ings gradually assumed a Spanish-Moorish style as new ones were '"^v VIEW OF THE GENERAL HOSPITAL, MEXICO CITY. As indicated in the picture, tliis establishment is quite modern and is one of the largest and best equipped institutions of its kind in the world. It is the culmination of a cherished desire of leading Mexican citizens for a hospital worthy of the name , and represents a large financial outlay. f- rri -M«<»iuKilE5JS'2-S*:'^" THE DEPARTMENT OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS OF THE MEXICAN GOVERNMENT. » p r '**r 26 MEXICO, THE CITY OF PALACES. erected. As the 3'ears passed, Spanish architecture replaced other kinds witli modifications to suit chmatic or special conditions. Dur- ing the rule of Maximilian modernizing influences were marked. There is a general absence of cellars on account of the marshy nature of the region; chimneys also are somewhat scarce, as the climate does not require heated houses, llecent years have seen the construction of several modern office buildings, a few of which might be termed the ''skyscrapers" of Mexico. Naturally, these business structures have been placed in the most active commercial parts, most of them being \vithin a short distance of the Alameda or the Plaza de la Constitucion, familiarly known as the Zocalo. Many very modern and beautiful residences have also been built in recent years, both in the city proper and in suburban districts. The National Library, with its 200,000 volumes; the University with more than 20 allied institutions of higher academic and professional training, not to mention at least 600 high and primary schools, give one a fair idea of how well the capital's youth are looked after in the way of educa- tional advantages. The National School of Mines, erected in 1813, cost $200,000 and has been a power in the field of education. For those engaged during the day there are operated a number of night schools. The National Military College, at Tlalpam, has several hundred cadets, while the naval academy at Vera Cruz usually has more than 100 government students. The field of journalism is well covered by the publications of the capital, there being registered about 225 different newspapers and magazines, with normally 10 daily papers. The leading dailies print a liberal amount of telegraphic news from all parts of the world, while the illustrated feature of magazine making has grown to a high degree of excellence. Mexico City can not yet be termed a great manufacturing center, but rather a city in early stages of promising factory growth. On wandering here and there about the city one is surprised to note the number of articles that are locally made. Numerous tanneries pro- duce fine grades of leather and the latter is turned into a hundred useful articles by the expert Mexican leather worker. In visiting such establishments one sees trunks, saddles, bridles, belts, carriage and farm harness, automobile accessories, boots and shoes, and various other articles of everyday use. A single factory has facili- ties for manufacturing 2,000 pairs of shoes per day. Every visitor to Mexico City is sure to admire and to purchase a belt or handbag, beautifully made and exquisitely carved by the Mexican workmen. Cotton manufacture in the Republic has grown largely in recent years and in the capital city large supplies are annually placed upon the market from 10 or more local mills operated by modern ma- chinery. That which is said of cotton manufacture is also true of the making of woolen cloth, shawls, blankets, etc., the most important factory being ia the State of Mexico not far from the capital city; it has nearly 5,000 spuidles, 117 looms, and normally about 800 opera- tives. Mexico City also has a linen mill, and in surbuban towns or near at hand is produced the bulk of news-print paper used by the printing establishments of the capital. Within the federal district are many cigar and cigarette factories, which not only give employ- ment to thousands of workers, but supply a growing demand. One of Mexico City's newest industries is that of aeroplane construction — an enterprise that has already produced a number of machines for MEXICO, THE CITY OF PALACES. 29 commercial and other purposes. These machmes are now being built entirely by native mechanics at the aviation school and shops of the capital, and several improvements are reported to have been devised by the constructors. An abundant supply of electric energy from the Necaxa Falls, which were first developed about 15 years ago, fur- nishes the power for the city's lighting, tramways, etc. Addi- tional improvements are expected to generate 200,000 horsepower, and Mexico City as well as other neighboring communities will doubt- less respond more freely to the call of the factory. A score or more of public and private hospitals are in operation in the capital city, and a number of these institutions date from the colonial period. The General Hospital, completed in 1905, is of very modern construction and equipment. It has 28 or more "pavilions" and can accommodate nearly 1,000 patients. There is also a large and well equipped hospital for children. This institution is non- sectarian and is capable of taking good care of at least 1,000 children; and those who are poor or needy are taught useful arts or trades so L that they may be self-supporting and of service to the country. There is also a hospital for the use of railway employees; while the English, American, Spanish, French, and other colonies have their own hospitals and sanitariums. As in many other cities of the world, the various foreign colonies also have their own cemeteries. Mexico City has a well-organized body of police, and in few if any large cities do we find these guardians of the peace more capable. Every important street crossing or traffic center has its special officer; and one of the rather unusual features of the system is the lantern which forms a part of each officer's equipment. At night as one looks down a street, a row of low middle-street lights stretshes away in the distance, and to the stranger this appears as a unique part of vigilance. On many of the most important avenues and ~^ streets ths mount 3d officer is always on guard, and his soldierly appearance, thorough equipment, and splendid steed bring terror to the evildoer. In the city, too, on special holiday occasions, one sees troops of the world-famous Rurales brought in from their posts of duty. These men are among the world's most picturesque horsemen, with large sombreros, often completely leather-clad bodies, superbly equipped, and mounted on some of the finest horses to be found in Mexico or in any country. The journey to Mexico City may be made by various routes over land or by water. If one passes southward over land from the United States to Mexico, a long and rather tedious railway trip lies between the border and the capital. For 300 miles, more or less, the country is not very interesting, with now and then a mining town or a city standing along the route. Normally, Pullman cars are attached to the best trains from El Paso and other Rio Grande cities directly to the Mexican capital. A hundred miles or so before reaching the latter, the country blossoms forth in foliage and vegetation, and the whole aspect presents a complete and agreeable change from the dry region of the central north. For scenic beauty the wi^iter prefers the railroad from Vera Cruz to Mexico City, a wonderfully varied route and a road that taxed engineering talent as well as the coffers of its promoters. If a night stop is made at Orizaba the traveler may enjoy an early morning ride through one of the world's most beautiful regions with the marvelous ' sights of the Maltrata Valley, in pictur- as M OJ rt M . h4 <1 •da S o w PI'S o ■^ S^ l-H O 03 m M "^3 1-1 fey o o w J, P 9S rn Mho w H 1— ( ''.2 fk W w n H is (:q O a W ce 2;