PP Class _SB_^^^ Gpiglit]^?. COPYRIGHT DEKISir. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/continuousbloomiOOshel BOOKS BY LOUISE SHELTON PUBLISHED BY CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS BEAUTIFUL GARDENS IN AMERICA. Il- lustrated. 4to net SS'OO CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA. Il- lustrated. 4to net $3.00 THE SEASONS IN A FLOWER GARDEN. ninstrated. X2mo net S1.00 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA WHERE, WHEN, WHAT, TO PLANT WITH OTHER GARDENING SUGGESTIONS BY LOUISE SHELTON author of "the seasons in a flower garden" NEW YORK CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 1915 COPTRIGHT, 1915, BT CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS Published August. 1915 AUG 31 l9l3g)CI,A410272 N DEDICATED TO KINDRED SPIRITS EST THE GARDEN — MY FRIENDS KNOWN AND UNKNOWN "There's something wonderfully soothing in having your fingers in Mother Earth. It seems to take the restlessness out of one. "The out-of-doors rests you, just like when you were little and things went \vrong, and your mother took you in her arms. The fret and the trouble go out, and the quietness and the strength come in. I don't know how it happens, but it does happen, and the touch of the earth has something to do with it. You feel as if the things that had concerned you were curiously unimportant beside the sky and the birds and the growing things, and you come in touch with the wonderful patience of the old earth." — Frances Duncan. "When quite well and happy. Work in the garden because you are glad. When weary and heart-sick. Work in the garden because it will rest you. When it rains. Work in the garden because then is the time to plant and weed. When the winds blow. Work now to save the slender stalks from breaking. When there is drought. Work in the garden to save your plants. When it is winter. Work now to give sheltering care. When it is spring. Work in the garden because everybody does. When it is summer, live in the garden to enjoy the fruits of yoiu" labor. When it is autiunn. Work in the garden because now is the time to transplant, divide, and multiply, and to lay down in the earth the glories for next summer." "K there is any other time when you cannot find an excuse for working in the garden, remember that it was the first duty and place of man, and that there is no philosophy of life, no beauty of art, which has not its seed in the earth, or can flourish without knowledge of a garden. What, indeed, was the punishment of Adam and Eve but to be driven out of their Eden ? " — Anna Lea Merritt, " My Gardea," from Century Magazine. [Vii] PREFACE In this my second book on garden lore, I hope as far as possible to avoid repetition in cultural direc- tions, although a few of these may have to be repeated in order to present complete directions for a garden of continuous bloom. I have not hesitated to admit and correct several mistakes in my last little book, "The Seasons in a Flower Garden," and I also have taken advantage of a woman's privilege to change my mind in regard to the use of a few of the plants recommended. Refer- ring to my first plant list, I no longer use, where con- tinuous bloom is required, several varieties named in "The Seasons." Either because they grow too ram- pantly, spread too quickly, bloom too early, are too short-lived, or else are too weak in coloring. The corrections to which I refer are the following: First. Reddish Helichrysum — a local name — was used instead of Globe Amaranth, of the Helichrysum family. Second. Silene pendula should read Silene armeria according to American catalogues. Third. In the first edition of my book, 2 inches of [ix] PREFACE clay was advised by mistake for the bottom of a new bed made in sandy ground, whereas 8 inches is none too much, because, to a certain extent, clay next to sand will absorb the sand, or vice versa. Fourth. Calceolaria was suggested rather hastily and without first trying it in home soil. The author must mention the disappointing venture with this beautiful golden flower, which lends such a brilliant effect to the English June gardens. An attempt to grow it at home from English seed produced plants of many leaves, but with insignificant flowers. Pos- sibly in different soil and moister climate, results might be otherwise. While my first book was devised entirely to meet the amateur's long-felt want for the ABC of garden- ing, with fortnightly advice for the untrained gardener, this second book will, I hope, supply the more ex- perienced gardener with a comprehensive scheme for continuous bloom, as well as abbreviated plans in a late chapter for those who would specialize in spring and autumn displays. In addition there are some other garden suggestions which may, I trust, be help- ful to those who have not as yet gone deeply into this interesting subject. [x] FOREWORD Eight years have passed since I sent out to kindred garden spirits my book, "The Seasons in a Flower Gar- den." Although my pen has since been idle, my spade has labored on, planting and transplanting, seeking ever a plan more satisfactory than the one given in the sketch of a single planting plan, which appeared in the second and later editions. Finally, after obtain- ing in a large garden the results for which I had long striven, i. e., complete satisfaction in a continuous bloom throughout a season beginning May 20 and ending with frost, I realized that I was ready to share my working plans with my known and unknown gar- den friends. What plants to use. Where to place them, and When they bloom, is the scheme I now ofifer to those who are striving for continuous "all-over" bloom during twenty-six weeks at the longest. Doubtless there are others having somewhat similar plans, who yet must withhold this coveted information, because lacking the opportunity to share it with us. There is nothing more bewildering than the variety of horticultural advice as to the treatment of certain plants: and while all in their way may be right, it is [xi] FOREWORD the different conditions in the various sections of the country which produce such a diversity of opinion. In the garden world, part of its wisdom is to be very liberal and broad-minded. Old-time conventions, so- called infallible rules concerning flowers, are often open to question and change. Some of these rules are not necessarily cast-iron laws, and certain liberties may be taken with a plant in one locality that might be disastrous to it in another place. There are some things that one must learn for himself by experience in his own garden; for instance: the depth of winter cover- ing required; the biennials and hardy annuals that may or may not need to be wintered in frames; the safe time in spring for setting out tender annuals, etc., etc.; all depending on the climate. Again, what plant causes more discussion than the Dahlia.'* Is it possible, that notwithstanding all the conflicting ad- vice for the benefit of the Dahlia, plentiful watering may be the one important rule for its best develop- ment.'* In many places the following plants, Gypso- phila, Dahlia, Lavatera, and Salpiglossis, grow lux- uriantly, but in my dry garden, where watering is difficult, it is useless to expect any satisfaction from them. Again, and for other local reasons, it is seldom that August-sown Shirley Poppies survive the winter in the northern exposure of my hillside, and they must be sown instead about April 1, or even upon the [xii] FOREWORD March snows, for late June bloom. Then again, one person may have a knack in handling some plant suc- cessfully where other gardeners invariably fail. A woman I know can transplant a lot of Shirley Poppies with few losses, whereas other gardeners in attempting it, with even the smallest seedlings, probably lose ten out of twelve plants. Many old-fashioned gardeners are loath to crowd the plants after the manner prescribed in these charts. This method undoubtedly requires a little more super- vision to prevent the smothering of the smaller vari- eties, but at the same time, the shaded soil holds moisture longer and fewer weeds intrude. There is but little left to be desired in the way of fullest bloom and harmony, if the charted plans in this book are strictly followed. With beds of different sizes, but slight variations will be necessary, depend- ing only on the number of square feet to be utilized. Doubtless for large gardens in moister climate there could be added a few more favorites, some of which are included in the list of "What to Plant," though omitted in the charts. These eleven plans later presented are duplicates of beds in several gardens where continuous bloom reigns from the opening of German Iris until frost. An in- telligent gardener, after a little careful study, and trial, must surely grasp these plans, and, once accom- [ xiii ] FOREWORD plished, his garden enclosure will be more than ever his out-of-door home, with each plant friend always in its own familiar place and ever glad to be alive in its appointed time. If the gardener fails to produce the desired effect, let him first carefully examine into his own methods of procedure before criticising the plans in question. It has been constantly the author's aim to supply the gardener in the simplest and briefest way possible with the necessary information for the beautifying of his garden. The list under "What to Plant," sug- gests the plants most useful for this plan of continuous bloom, and contains mainly the names used in the most familiar American catalogues. Important sug- gestions as to the peculiar needs and habits of these favored plants are also included, but it will be left to the numerous horticultural encyclopaedias, complete and abridged, to furnish their full botanical descrip- tions and histories. It will be observed that the flower names in this volume are capitaUzed. As it is a book of instruction, where flower names will be frequently sought, the author adopts this method for the purpose of bringing out the names conspicuously on the pages. [xiv] CONTENTS CBAFTEB PAGE I. The Secret of Continuous Bloom . . 1 II. Where to Sow 5 III. Where to Plant 12 IV. When to Sow 26 V. When to Plant 39 "VT. When They Bloom 46 VII. What to Plant — Perennlils .... 51 VIII. What to Plant — Annuals 73 IX. Miscellaneous Gardening Advice . . 92 X. Some Minor Suggestions 108 Planting Charts 117 ILLUSTRATIONS PLAT! I. Continuous bloom from mid-May until frost Frontispiece FACINa PAOa n. Continuous bloom at "The Orchard" 6" in. Late Jime bloom 1 , . ^ Long open bed 7 ]4 feet wide, right side path J IV. Wall bed 4 feet wide \ ^n Wall bed 7 feet wide j *" V. Continuous bloom in small beds 1 ^ ^ Lupins and Gas Plants J VI. ConttQuous bloom of annuals bordering brick path 1 a* - The scallop edge J Vn. All paths curving 42 - Vlll. Curving grass paths 48 . IX. For a city yard 92 X. View of upper garden 94 XI. Upper garden looking down to lower garden 1 q^ Part of curved path. Lower garden J * * * Xn. Lower garden. End of cm-ved path to lane 1 ^q The circular bower J ' * ' [ xvii ] ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE PLATE XIII. A separate spring garden \ 2qq The outer court — "Green Court" J XrV. A garden with trees 102 XV. Trees as a backgroimd 1 jQg Trees in Preston Garden j XVI. Peonies in mass } jjq Shirley Poppies J CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Chapter I THE SECRET OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM To understand the scheme of well-balanced, con- tinuous bloom, we must know — First: The birth dates and longevity of the flowers in our garden, in order to classify them under the several different 'periods of bloom. In the coimtry surrounding New York City, at least, the flowering season continues for twenty to twenty-six weeks, or from May 1 to frost, due any time between October 1 and November 1. This long season may be divided into eight periods of hloom^ representing the coming and going of the different classes of plants. The blossoming period of most per- ennials and annuals lasts about three weeks. A few annuals remain for four months and these are inval- uable in a garden. Second: The plan for planting in lines, for the sake of order. Third: The alternation of two or more flowering periods in these lines, for the purpose of regular and balanced bloom. [1] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Fourth: The choicest plants to use and their colors and proportions. No matter how much information one may have acquired concerning the best plants and their habits, it is valueless in the quest for well-balanced, continu- ous bloom if one lacks the knowledge of the periods of bloom and for the alternation of those periods. Continuous bloom of course is as prolonged as the climate permits and no longer. WHAT, WHERE, AND WHEN The secret of well-balanced, continuous bloom de- pends, therefore, on a definite idea of what flowers to plant, where to plant them, and when they bloom, with the no less important knowledge of the scheme for alternating the several blooming periods, in the straight or circular lines, in broken though regular order, through- out each and all the beds. It is this plan that obtains the ejffect of a well-balanced bloom over the whole garden, from the beginning to the end of the season. The idea is clearly illustrated in the patterns on many an Oriental rug, where figures in different colors ap- pear in "broken though regular order," in symmet- rical and harmonious design. What to plant, or the right choice of hardy peren- nials, involves the selection of the most effective and longest blooming varieties, blossoming when most needed, with no space wasted on any others. The [2] THE SECRET OF CONTINUOUS BLOOM most reliable annuals also must be used to fill up the gaps between the various periods of perennial bloom. It is equally important that most of the annuals shall belong to the class which blooms from mid-June until frost, otherwise bare spaces may confront us. When certain short-lived annuals are indispensable, because of their beauty or usefulness, place them near spreading plants that will later cover their vacant places. Where to plant includes the placing of plants at regular intervals, and with regard to their season, breadth, height, and color, while the matter of When they bloom demands the consideration of the various flowering periods in order to allow each period equal representation in every section of the garden. In later chapters under these three headings there is included the further information as to where and when to sow these plants in order to have them in flower according to the plan. A GARDEN WITHOUT ANNUALS Unless the flowering season is to be of short dura- tion, I have yet to see a satisfactory plan for a per- ennial garden without any annuals to complete its bloom. When long and continuous bloom is required, a plentiful supply of certain annuals is recommended. Flower-beds of fairly large dimensions, containing none but perennials, may possibly be kept in bloom [3] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA for a little over eight weeks. But, as most of the perennials take up much room and bloom but a few weeks, it would require more than the space of an ordinary garden-bed to have a long and continuous "all-over" bloom with nothing but perennials.* Another objection to depending altogether on peren- nials is that the hardiness of some of them is not always to be relied upon. Disease may take them, or if, in an unusually severe winter a quantity are killed, it may be impossible the following spring to replace them satisfactorily. Large grown perennials are difficult to obtain from the nurseryman, and some varieties take three years to develop a strong bloom. Annuals from good seeds never fail to develop quickly; therefore, the perennial bed should be more or less dependent upon a certain number and variety of annuals. * In Chart No. XI, at the end of the book, there is given a suggestion for a bed of perennials, but it is not as satisfactory as where annuals are included, at least when the flowering season is prolonged. [4] Chapter II WHERE TO SOW HARDY PERENNIALS — THE OPEN NURSERY All the perennials that are grown from seed may be started in the (ypen nursery — a propagating space reserved outside of the garden. Even after the garden has been planted, the nursery should continue to keep in reserve a small supply of well grown plants, especially those of the less long- lived varieties, in order to be always ready to replace the possible losses in the garden. The nursery will then serve as well for a picking garden. Many of the plants will self -sow, others will increase by root-spread- ing, and the difficulty will be to keep a small nursery within bounds, if pests or extreme cold do not inter- fere. To know the plants for the nursery, see the chapter on "When to Sow." For a new garden, it is well to begin sowing in the nursery of perennials at least a year in advance of the planting, unless well developed hardy perennials can be purchased of the nurseryman, an expensive method [5] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA of stocking a garden which may not appeal to the average gardener. Some of the favorite plants* should be two years old before they are considered large enough to be ad- mitted to the garden, where only strong bloomers are desired. This rule is not only important for the pur- pose of obtaining the full color effect the first year, but also because the slower growing young perennials in a crowded border are so insignificant that they may be overlooked and hoed up by a careless gardener, or else smothered by larger neighbors. PLANTS BY PURCHASE When a full-grown garden is wanted at once, un- less economy forbids, the quickest way to secure it, of course, is to purchase in large plants from a nursery- man all that is required. But if these plants should come very small, turn them into the nursery for a year or two; even this will be quicker than raising at least the slow-growing varieties from seed. If the plants have to mature in a nursery, a garden of annuals for one or two seasons would be an in- teresting experiment. Remember that in planning for just one fair-sized clump of certain kinds of plants, it will take from three to ten single nursery plants set near together to form * Pyrethrum, Columbine, Delphinixun (tall var.). Oriental Poppy, Platy- codon, Statice. [6] c 1 WHERE TO SOW the clump, i.e., Phlox, hardy Asters, etc. With most plants of the rapid root-spreading nature, it will take one year for a small plant to triple its size. The only perennials named in this book, not belong- ing to this quick-spreading variety, are Lupin, Sweet William, Dictamnus, Columbine, Sedum, Delphinium, Platycodon, Foxglove, Hollyhock, Pyrethrum hybrid, Anchusa, Statice, Salvia azurea. Poppy, CEnothera, Gaillardia. All the rest named are fast root-spreaders, which, once well started, will need to be divided every two or three years (Peonies every five years). WHERE TO sow — ANNUALS When considering where to sow his annuals, the gardener should remember that part of the scheme for continuous bloom necessarily depends also on when they are to be sown. THE NURSERY A nursery of some kind, for certain annuals at least, is indispensable to a garden of continuous bloom; pref- erably in frames where they are more easily handled. But when frames are not available, then a bit of open ground somewhere for an open seed-bed and nursery should be included in the gardener's calculations. A nursery for the August-September sown hardy an- nuals is a necessity. A frame is required for wintering some of them in a cold climate. See "When to Sow." [7] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA The under-glass sowing of certain useful annuals, by- April 1 or earlier, brings their first bloom by mid-June when they are needed. (See lists on pages 34 and 37.) If possible, one or more frames with glass sashes should be used for the purpose of hastening the growth of these special spring-sown seeds. Near New York, as a rule, the cold-frame cannot be safely used for spring-sown annuals much before April 1, but it is well not to delay sowing much beyond that date. Sowing is usually begun in the hotbed by March 1. If, however, there are no conveniences for them in greenhouse, hotbed, or cold-frame, we must be content with less late June bloom. We shall then sow all the annuals out-of-doors at the proper season,* to await germinating time, which differs slightly with the dif- ferent plants, according to their nature and hardiness, and depending on the climate in the open. Lacking the facilities for coaxing certain ones to bloom by mid-June, then around July 1 there will be more than ever needed the fall-sown Anthemis, Feverfew, Larkspur, and Canterbury Bells (C. medium), and if possible some well-grown Snapdragon. Even on the smallest plot of land, a seed-bed and nursery, whether in the open or within frames, can be satisfactorily managed if the gardener will economize space by not sowing the entire contents of a package of seeds, when but half the amount is required. * Heliotrope, Lobelia, Viaca, Impatiens, Torenia, Begonia excepted. [8] WHERE TO SOW Use the nursery space for certain annuals in suf- ficient number to supply the definite places awaiting them in the garden, omitting from the nursery such varieties as can better be sown in the garden-bed. The richer and finer the soil, the faster will the seed- Imgs develop. Sufficient watering, not more and not less, is another important nursery rule. Though the nursery start necessitates some extra work on account of transplanting, to any valuable possession a certain amount of trouble and respon- sibility is attached; and a well planned nursery be- hind a garden of continuous bloom means only a reasonable expenditure of effort with endless satisfac- tion as the reward. When the problem of limited space is absent, how fortunate the gardener ! Under glass and in the open, he may then sow freely for the garden, the "picking" garden, and the friend's garden. SOWING IN THE GARDEN-BED As elsewhere stated, all annuals named in this book excepting Heliotrope, Begonias, etc., may be sown in spring where they are to bloom, when early flow- ering is not required of them. See footnote, page 8. And again, it is perhaps needless to add, there are some annuals which are always sown in the garden- beds, because they do not transplant well. These are Cleome, Poppies, Candytuft, Nasturtiums, an- [9] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA nual Lupin, Lavatera, and Eschscholtzia; while Ca- lendula, Calliopsis, Painted Daisies, and annual Gail- lardia, often troublesome after transplanting, had better be sown in their places too. Generally Sweet Alyssum is sown in the garden, but sometimes in the nursery when the early Pansies are occupying too much of their space at the edge of the bed. Sweet Alyssum transplants very well, and with plenty of watering can replace the Pansies at any time, when the latter must be replaced. Experienced horticulturists believe that the self- sown plants, either annuals or perennials, are the hardiest, and most likely to produce the strongest possible bloom, especially when not transplanted. For this reason, it is sometimes advisable to allow a few flowers of the seK-sowing varieties to go to seed, and when the young plants must be moved, the earth should be soaked, and kept intact about the roots. Except with a few varieties of annuals, it is easier to sow and care for a quantity of seedlings in the limited space of a nursery, and then to transplant them when older into the beds, than it is to sow them in the garden where they are to grow, and there to try to watch and care for such young things in beds already well occupied with large plants. In the latter case many seedlings will suffer from shading. But this advice do'es not necessarily apply to the low- growing annuals for the front of a bed; for instance, [ 10 ] WHERE TO SOW when Pansies edge the front line, it is often possible to sow Sweet Alyssum or Portulaca 6 inches back from the centre of the Pansy 'plants, to be ready to bloom when Pansies are no longer at their best and can be discarded. The Pansies should be planted within 3 or 4 inches of the edge. If they creep over the line all the better. Calliopsis, var. Golden Wave, Calendula, Gail- lardia, Painted Daisies, and Nasturtiums, may be sown likewise around Sweet William and Tulips in order to replace them later. The latter are cut down three or four weeks after bloom: Sweet William may be dis- carded when bloom begins to fade. [11] Chapter III WHERE TO PLANT The alternation of several periods of bloom planted in lines is the main point in the secret of well balanced, continuous bloom. In order to economize room, and to systematize the scheme to an orderly plan for giving the various bloom- ing periods equal representation throughout the space of one bed, plant in lines, and alternate in the lines the plants of several different periods: for instance, in one line alternate several times the plants of May and June, or else of May, June, and July, i. e.. Lupins, Campanula medium, Foxglove, repeated two, three, or more times. Other plants of the same periods may appear in alternation in another line, while still other lines will show the alternate setting of other blooming periods either with annuals, with perennials, or with both. At each period have more than one line in flower at a time (not every plant in the line), and always with care that the front bloomers do not conceal those behind. [12] WHERE TO PLANT OPEN BEDS AND WALL BEDS Bed Space. — Long, continuous, balanced bloom with perennials and annuals in small beds is a difficult proposition, and it is best to plan a garden, if pos- sible, with beds of rather large dimensions when plenty of perennials are desired. An exception may be made when a bed is against a wall, which can be planted effectively if only 4 feet deep, but a larger space is preferable because easier to plant. The planting plans for the beds which are open, on view from all sides, differ somewhat from those for beds adjoining a boundary wall or hedge. For convenience' sake the beds that are open on all sides will be called open beds, and the beds adjoin- ing a boundary line or wall which forms a background, WALL beds. THE open bed long AND NARROW In the OPEN BED, the centre space where the tall- est plants grow might be considered as the back- ground. Unless the bed is quite wide, as m Chart Vn, the centre of any open bed should not contain the very tallest plants, e. g., early Cosmos. When the open bed is much longer than wide, for instance, 7 3^ by 28 feet (Chart IV), plant the middle line with the moderately tall plants of four alternat- [13] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ing periods of bloom repeated several times. Study the periods in chapter VI. See Plate III. On either side of the middle line have two corre- sponding identical lines of plants of two or three dif- ferent periods, set out in repeated alternation, and of somewhat lower growth than those in the centre line, preferably of annuals in a bed as narrow as 7 feet. If these annuals are as slender in form as Campanula medium. Snapdragon, and Larkspur, an- other close row of slender annuals might be snug- gled in front of them, such as Salpiglossis, Vinca, Scabiosa. Next in order on two corresponding sides of the bed run a line of perennials in three alternating periods. Finally the bed should be bordered with low annuals. About a foot back from the edge of the bed there will be room for the brief bloom of Cottage Tulips. While advising the gardener in search of continuous bloom with perennials and annuals not to lay out long OPEN BEDS as narrow as 3 or 4 feet, on account of the extra amount of work necessary to care for so many plants in a crowded area, and the difficulty in keeping the early perennials from being smothered, the illustration on page 24 should not be overlooked. The planting is entirely within open beds which are but 33^ feet wide by 18 feet long. Chrysanthemum is the only perennial used after June. The planting is explained on pages 24 and 25. [14] Plate III Late June bloom 'Riverside Farm," Tyringham, Mass., Mrs. Banyer Clarkson Long open bed 7^2 feet wide, right side path 'Glen Alpine," Morristown, N. J., Mrs. C. W. McAlpin, Esq. WHERE TO PLANT LARGE OPEN BEDS, SQUARE, ROUND, OR OVAL In a good-sized open bed, square, round, or oval, i. e.y 12 or more feet in diameter (Charts VI and VII), the straight lines, already described in the 7 by 28 foot bed, become circular lines around a centre space, which centre forms the background of such beds. This cen- tre measures from 2 to 3 feet in diameter, and con- tains within its space two sets of tall plants: First, a mass of spring flowers like Bluets (fall-sown) or else three Lupins in a group with a few Cottage Tulips — all tall for that period around June 1. Later, there follows some ever blooming variety of annual, like Zinnia, Marigold, or early Cosmos. Several plants of any one of these varieties are placed around and close to the outer lines of the centre space to spread over it when early bloom is past, and Bluets are removed. If perennial Lupins form the centre group, they are not removed, but are unlikely to suffer from this shading. If necessary to prevent crowding, a little of their foliage could be nipped off. Then the other lines encircling this bed (supposing it to be 12 or 14 feet in diameter) can be planted somewhat similar to those in the long 7 by 28 foot bed, only on circles instead of on straight lines. (See Chart VI.) When the diameter of the bed is over 14 feet, then plant additional circular line or lines of alternating plants, allowing one extra line to every 23^ feet of diameter. [15] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA SMALLER OPEN BEDS, SQUARE, ROUND, OR OVAL In the case of the smaller round, square, or oval bed, measuring in diameter 10 feet or less, it is diffi- cult to use a long succession of perennials to advan- tage, luiless some of them are removed after blooming, which disturbance probably will kill them. A few Chrysanthemums, lower Delphiniuilis, and Agrostem- mas might be used, but prepare chiefly for annuals and Tulips. In the middle of a bed, 8 to 10 feet diameter, for first bloom, have a close mass of Bluets and Silene within an 18-inch square. Later, replace them with September flowering Chrysanthemums, h. p. For the early season the bed is edged with Pansies and English Daisies, and close behind them are Cot- tage Tulips, alternating with Sweet William, discarded after bloom. The Sweet William and Cottage Tulips are later replaced with Petunia, Ageratum, Verbena, or Heliotrope. The Pansy* space is later an overflow for Petunias or others on the adjoining line. Behind the Petunia line for later bloom are Scabiosa, Salpiglossis, and Snapdragon. And to the rear, still another line of alternating fall-sown Larkspur, dwarf Zinnia, and Canterbury Bells, encircling the central Silene-Bluet group. See Chart VIII. Taken from pots or with roots balled, Chrysanthe- * Where the season opens late, Pansies and Daisies may be omitted. [16] WHERE TO PLANT mum, Heliotrope, etc., are easily moved at any time in June or July. Beds of these proportions as well as smaller beds are also often filled with the lower annuals of one or two varieties, i. e., first Pansies mixed with English Daisies, and later a mass of some long blooming va- riety, such as Petunia, or else blue Ageratum edged with white Ageratum, or pink fibrous Begonia bor- dered with Sweet Alyssum. To make a close connection between the Pansy, and, for instance. Petunia bloom, the following sug- gestion is offered. Pansies may have been planted out about May 10 or earlier. Petunias were started under glass April 1. When Pansies shall have bloomed about six weeks, their best days are over in warm climates, so remove every other Pansy plant, replacing them with Petunias, which as yet are not old enough to be effective, but there is still some Pansy bloom left. WTien the Petunias begin to branch and bloom, the remaining Pansies are ready for removal, and all the spaces are soon covered with the tireless Petunia. Because Ageratum and Verbena are likewise sprawling plants, they can be used instead of Petunia, if pre- ferred. It would be possible also to sow in May the seeds of Petunias or dwarf Calliopsis or Calendula, or other quickly germinating seeds around the Pansies, trim- [17] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ming the latter slightly to give light to the seedlings; but on account of the crowded quarters this is not as likely to be a satisfactory method. SEVEN FEET DIAMETER In this small bed a plan similar to Chart VIII may be adopted, except that the centre space should be smaller and one line omitted. Zinnias might also be omitted and replaced with Snapdragon. Then put Sweet William in the Snapdragon place on Scabiosa line, and scatter Tulips over the bed, setting the Pansies close to the Scabiosa line. These smaller beds are more satisfactory when filled with one or two varieties of long blooming annuals. Summary Open Beds, Longer than Wide — Width, 7 feet or more: Use perennials and annuals. Width, 6 feet or less : Perennials difficult to handle. Open Beds, Round, Square, Oval — Diameter, 12 feet or more : Use perennials and annuals. Diameter, 7-10 feet: Use a few perennials, preferably annuals 4 feet high and less, and bulbs. Less than 7 feet: Use annuals and bulbs. THE WALL BED In the WALL BED the tallest perennials and annuals are, of course, placed in the rear line against the background, whatever it may be. The plants in the [ 18 ] WHERE TO PLANT other lines graduate in height, down to the lower edging of the bed. It is no more diflBcult to plant effectively with per- ennials and annuals the long wall bed, only 4 feet wide, than it is to attain the desired effect in the wider 7 by 28 foot open bed. This statement is not for the purpose of advocating a 4 feet wide wall bed, as one wider is preferable; but observe that in the OPEN bed, after leaving the centre, each line is du- plicated in order to give a well balanced effect to the beds. This question of keeping the balance on both sides of the open bed complicates the work of plant- ing it. The WALL BED is different in this respect, and easier to handle. The WALL BED, like other beds, can have Pansies for early bloom in front, followed by some long-lived annuals to make an effective finish and to bloom without intermission until frost. Near the front of this bed there should appear a taller row of annuals or perennials, possibly 15 inches high, of three alternating periods. Farther back, an- other line of annuals, or else annuals and perennials. Then at the rear of the wall bed a line of still taller growth, such as early Cosmos or Miniature Sun- flowers, mixed with the tall perennials against the background. The foregoing suggests a plan for the narrowest possible wall bed containing perennials and annuals. [19] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA (See Chart I and Plate IV). A wider bed with addi- tional lines will be all the more effective. See Plate IV. Another plan for continuous bloom in a narrow (4-foot) bed against a background is the following: Rear Line. — Alternate Lily candidum* and Oriental Poppies. In a very long bed add to the line three, tall Delphinium, one at each end and one in centre. Two Cleome seeds may be sown in each Poppy space, when the latter die down. Next Line. — Alternate Anchusas Opal and tall Zin- nias; in a very long bed, add to the line three groups of pink Cannas in front of Delphiniums (three Can- nas to a group). Next Line. — Fall-sown Larkspurs and Canterbury Bells, alternating. Front Line. — Late Tulips, with Sweet Alyssum sown early. SPACES REQUIRED FOR PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS In a full garden of continuous bloom, root-spreaders like the Phloxes cannot be allowed to attain very wide proportions, unless the beds are spacious. A safe rule would be to keep the Phlox clump down to about twelve shoots, except in a very large garden. A later chapter on "What to Plant" mentions the number of single plants or shoots that certain clumps * Lily candidum, will not survive the heavy shading of surrounding plants. Stake adjoining Zinnias and Cleomes. [ 20 ] Plate IV Wall bed 4 feet wide "Glen Alpine," Morristown, N. J. B^mHBb^'V^ 1 9wf^w9lHBHflSHHsGi^B9E9Bs^Bi^H&^^^^^^i ^^^ * '!& ^^|hH| |g,j^H ^^^^^^^|^^W^«|H^^A^ ^j^>«{ggPJ ^9m ^H i^BPKsruSK^S^^KQwuEl^^al^O^&KiS i^^IP^ w^^^ ^^^Ki^^H^^^^BS^^^KSiBSVfl^^^S^BY^ ^ipi ^^9 ^^^^^HnT^H^M^^HiiHHl^^^^HW^^/ . - • vsaa^ i^m Wall bed 7 feet wide "Onunda," Madison, N. J., Mrs. D. Willis James WHERE TO PLANT may ordinarily average. Read also section on "Plants by Purchase," page 6. With the non-spreaders, such as Lupin and Fox- glove, in small beds it may not be possible to use more than one plant to a space, but in a roomy bed we should endeavor to group two or three such plants, 8 to 10 inches apart whenever the allotted space can be made to contain them. It is difficult to indicate in inches or feet the exact space to be allowed each plant, the area varying from 6 to 24 inches. (Peonies and Dahlias take 3 feet.) A good average, however, might be 15 square inches. At the rear of a wall bed, where the strongest per- ennials grow, full 18 inches separation is a safe rule, and when the outer foliage of Hollyhock, Delphinium, or Monkshood encroaches, it can be cut off. When such annuals as early Cosmos and Minia- ture Sunflower are added to the rear hardy line, the full 18 inches need not be allowed them, as they make their spread farther up and require less room at the base. By late July these annuals, placed adjoining Hollyhocks and Oriental Poppies, gracefully cover the vacancies left by the earlier blooming perennials, and blossom incessantly until frost. ANNUALS vs. PERENNL^LS AS EDGINGS It is better always to use annuals for edging a bed if a bright finish is desired during a long season. (See [21] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Plate VI.) When such perennials as Armeria, Achil- lea tomentosa or Clove Pinks are grown in the front line, there is nothing left by mid-June but their ever- green foliage. If these plants should be alternated with strong, long-blooming annuals, such as Ageratum and Verbena, the latter would soon creep over their perennial friends, which, for lack of light and air, must turn sickly and will probably die. In a bed for continuous bloom, it is impossible to plant in effective alternation along the whole length of the edge all the perennials that would be required to rep- resent the various periods until frost. If, however, it is desired to diminish the quantity of annuals required for an edging, the following combi- nation with perennials is suggested for one bed at least. Plant the hardy, silvery, bushy Santolina incana every 24 inches, and between plant groups of Cottage Tulips. Then plant in May, around the Tulips, a few Agera- tum, white in some spaces, blue in others; or add to some of these spaces other all-summer blooming an- nuals, not much taller than the Ageratum. Of the low growing perennials for an edging, For- get-me-nots, Viola cornuta, Campanula Carpatica, and blue Plumbago bloom the longest. Plumbago, with one or two of the others named, could be satisfactorily used without annuals when the garden is to bloom only in May, June, and September. r 22 1 WHERE TO PLANT In planting for a long blooming season, crowding is more or less necessary. A careful staking and care to remove unnecessary foliage will prevent injury to a small plant in danger of being overshadowed by a large one. Let hidden stakes support the larger plants for the preservation of their symmetry , as well as for the life of the smaller neighbors. THE SCALLOPED EDGE When a wall bed is sujQBciently deep and long — not less than 12 by 25 feet — an effective finish to the front is produced by sowing Sweet Alyssum in scallops, using slightly taller annuals like Petunias to fill the scallops. See Plate VI and Chart X. The scallops may measure about 2 to 3 feet in depth, and 3 to 5 feet across the top from point to point, which allows 5 to 8 scallops to a 25-foot bed. There should be a space of from 4 to 6 inches between the edge of the bed and lower end of curve. This space can hold two lines of Sweet Alyssum, the lines in- creasing in the wider spaces. Within the curves may be placed Pansies in separate colors for early bloom, followed by such long blooming annuals as pink Pe- tunia, dwarf yellow Calliopsis, fibrous Begonia, Ver- bena, Ageratum, Dianthus, or others of about the same height. It will take possibly twenty-five of such plants to fill a large curve, except in the case of Ver- [23] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA bena, Ageratum, and Petunia, of which but twelve may be required. The scallops sometimes can be outlined with pink Candytuft or yellow Sanvitalia or blue Brachycome, set 6 inches apart. Sown in the bed in April with Sweet Alyssum, Candy- tuft will die out by the time the plants within the curve are nearly full grown. Sanvitalia after a while will creep out to mix most effectively with Sweet Alyssum in a long bloom. Sown in April, Sweet Alyssum will need to be cut back in August about half-way, in order to prolong its bloom until frost. Variety Little Gem is the best for this plan. A GARDEN OF NARROW BEDS, THREE AND ONE-HALF FEET WIDE The illustration facing this page shows a small garden, which in spite of narrow beds is overflowing with continuous bloom from May 1 till frost. Tulips, a few May and June perennials, and several varieties of annuals flourish here, but on account of the narrow quarters, the gardener must be continuously vigilant to prevent the smothering of the smaller plants. The first bloom brings the early Tulips, edging all the beds and alternating with Pansies just behind the box border, with three groups of these Tulips also in the centre line of each bed. [24] Plate V Continuous bloom in small beds Crescent Manor, Morristown, N. J., Mrs. George C. Fraser By courtesy of Stumpp & Walter By courtesy of Miss Cornelia S. L. Clarkson Lupins and gas plants WHERE TO PLANT No sooner have they gone than the Cottage Tulips appear on both sides of and close to the plants in the centre line of every bed. Tulips are later removed. The centre lines contain Lupins, Delphinium bella- donna, Lilies, Larkspur, and hardy Chrysanthemums* in alternation. Running parallel with and close to the two Cottage Tulip lines are two lines of alternating annuals, i. e.. Campanula medium. Snapdragon, and Zinnia. Some Sweet William are crowded in, and with Pan- sies they are later discarded for Heliotrope, compact Petunias, Ageratum, Impatiens,t etc., which are care- fully moved to their places with balled roots, or from pots. The centre bed (7 feet diameter) of this garden is devoted mainly to annuals and bulbs. The planting is quite similar to plan on page 18. Intelligent, pains- taking labor keeps this small garden blooming from spring frost until autumn frost. See Chart IX. * In late June, two Chrysanthemums are planted in each Lily space, f Or Salpiglossis. [25] Chapter IV WHEN TO SOW PERENNIALS When depending on your own nursery for the first garden supply all but a few of the plants named in this chapter may be started from seeds, the earlier in in the season, the better bloom the next year. The most important plants to keep in stock afterward are: First, those which take longest to mature, and which may die out within five years; and, second, those which grow quickly, but which are more or less short- lived. Start Two Years Before Required KEEP SOME IN STOCK Pyrethrum hybrid.* Salvia pratensls. Columbine. Delphinium formosum. Salvia azurea, var. Pitcheri. Delphinium hybrid. Monkshood Wilsoni. Platycodon. Anemone Japonica. Oriental Poppy. These are likely to die within five years, excepting Poppy, Platycodon, and Anemone Jap. All seK-sow quite freely excepting Platycodon, Anemone, and Salvia azurea. * The perennials most quickly killed by overcrowding are Pyrethrum hybrid, Lily candidum, and Shasta Daisy. In a dry climate the Lupin is better for some shading from the neighboring plants, but will suffer if deprived of all air, dew, and water, as when the heavy foliage of a near-by plant covers it over completely. [26] WHEN TO SOW Start Twelve Months Before Required SHORTER-LIVED — KEEP IN STOCK Lupin polyphyllus. Anchusa Italica, Opal. Lupin polyphyllus Moerheimi. Delphinium belladonna. Gaillardia. Delphinium Chinense. Foxglove. Campanula persicifolia. Hollyhock. Sweet Rocket Sweet William. (Enothera Youngi. Agrostemma cor. Shasta Daisy. Those on left column are the shorter-lived. All seK-sow freely except (Enothera, Campanula persicifolia, and Delphin- ium Chinense. To bloom well twelve months after sowing Lupins need the best soil and watering. Start Twelve Months Before Required NO RESERVE STOCK NECESSARY Rarely die out — start enough seeds for the first garden planting,* if plants are not bought of the nurseryman. Achillea "Pearl." Helenium, Riverton Gem. Lychnis Chalcedonica, white. Helenium, Riverton Beauty. Coreopsis lanceolata. Valerian officinalis, alba. Statice latifolia requires two Rudbeckia purpurea, years to grow. . Gypsophila paniculata. Seeds Not Obtainable — Buy Plants NO RESERVE STOCK NECESSARY If only a few of each can be afforded, allow them two or three years to spread by root in nursery in order to secure quantity desired for garden; or else for immediate use pur- chase total number of plants needed for each and every clump.* * Under "What to Plaut" find the number of separate (nursery) plants required to make one clump sufiSciently large to take a place in the garden. [27] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Irises — German. Eupatorium coelestinum. Irises — Japan. Veronica, long subsess. Lemon Lily — ^Hemerocallis. Sedum spectabile. Ranunculus acris fl. pi. Dictamnus — Gas Plant, non- Phlox — late. spreader. Phlox — Miss Lingard. Asters — Tall late August. Peonies. Under congenial conditions — sunshine, rich soil, and watering — all plants named, when sown in April and May, will give satisfaction the following year, except- ing those where otherwise noted. Sow them in spring, rather than in summer, whenever possible. If they must be sown in summer keep the seedlings moist, also shaded for at least half the day until mid- September. Instead of requiring it to live through two years. Sweet William is so easily grown that it is best to give it the same treatment as the Campanula medium, i. e., same date of sowing. May 1, in nursery, and discard it after its first bloom, using its space after bloom for later annuals. Of the plants named above, Dictamnus is the slowest growing and, therefore, the one variety above all others to be purchased first, in as large plants as possible, and planted as soon as possible in a per- manent place. It must be established several years before its bloom is satisfactory; it is better therefore never to disturb it. [28] WHEN TO SOW HARDY ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS Hardy annuals may be divided into three classes or degrees of hardiness. The First Class The hardiest of the best hardy annuals are Bluets* (Corn-flower), Silene armeria, Shirley Poppies and Lark- spur,* with the perennial Forget-me-not, var. palustris semperflorens, Anthemis, and Feverfew, treated as hardy annuals. Fall-Sown. — When sown the previous year in August, these plants, blooming the following May, June, and July, greatly assist in the scheme of continuous bloom. In most climates they survive the winter well in the open ground, needing only a sprinkling of leaves or salt-hay to keep them warm. Self-sown in summer and usually germinating in August, they are by nature May and June bloomers, which, with Campanula medium (biennial Canterbury Bell), are quite indispensable to this period — the Lark- spurs lasting through July, or later. Feverfew and Forget-me-not palustris flower all sum- mer, but, like Viola cornuta, bloom so weakly in the latter half of the summer that for this period at least some gardeners prefer not to depend on them alone. * In a warm climate it is better to sow Bluets and Larkspm-s not earlier than September 1 to 12 to prevent their growing too tall before winter; they are thus less likely to be broken by snow and ice and more easily transplanted in spring. [29] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Consequently they sow the spreading variety of Sweet Alyssum close to the line of Forget-me-nots, which is later partly covered by the creeping white sprays that mingle well with the scantier blossoms of sky-blue. After the first splendid bloom (July 1) of fall-sown Feverfew, some of us choose to replace it with the same plants, spring-sown; either by transplanting the latter from the open spring nursery sometime in June, or else by sowing seeds of Feverfew in April near their older brothers in the garden. Spring-sown outdoors, it blooms by August. All the annuals of the hardiest class may be sown also in the spring. Shirley Poppies sown April 1 in the garden, bloom in late June, and are not transplantable. The Second Class Sown August. — In this class are the Pansies, Eng- lish Daisies, Snapdragon, Dianthus, and the biennial Forget-me-not, var. alpestris Victoria, etc. For early bloom they also should be sown in August of one year to bloom the next May and June, and as a rule they are only safely wintered in a cold-frame (glass or slat top) from New York City northward. Occasionally, where they have a well protected posi- tion with covering, they may survive a cold winter in the open, but, except Dianthus, the risk is not worth taking. [ 30 ] WHEN TO SOW Spring-Sown. — This class may be sown as well in spring in the open ground when early bloom is not required, Forget-me-nots and English Daisies excepted, or else in the early spring under glass in order to hasten the bloom. The beautiful June Campanula medium, biennial, (Canterbury Bell) for best results should be started in the open nursery in May to blossom a year later for three or four weeks, and not again. It is about as hardy as the Pansy. The garden cannot have too many plants of Snap- dragon, Larkspur, Campanula medium, and Feverfew. They are easily reared, occupy but a small space, and if sown the preceding year, will finish blooming the next season by the time the spring-sown plants are ready to replace them. They can be replaced by their kind (except Campanula) or others. It is only when Snapdragon is forced to begin full flowering in early June that it requires to be replaced in August by Snapdragon from a later sowing. The Gardener's Guide in Brief summary of foregoing pages First-Class Hardy Annuals August-sown Bluets (Corn-flower). (the 25th). Silene armeria. Open nursery. Shirley Poppies, sow in garden only. Larkspurs. Anthemis tinctoria Kelwayi, yellow. [ 31 ] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Anthemis tinctoria, creamy. Feverfew, double white. Forget-me-not, var. palustris semperflo- rens (sow August 1). These hardiest amiuals, except Forget-me-nots, may be sown also in spring in the open to bloom later in the season — ^August, and Poppies bloom earlier. Second-Class Hardy Annuals August-sown. Pansies.* English Daisies. Snapdragon. Dianthus, Pinks. Forget-me-not, var. alpestris hybrid. These also may be sown in the open in spring to bloom later the same year, excepting Forget-me-not and English Daisy. Of course, the early bloom may be had from most of these plants by sowing them in February in hot- bed or greenhouse; but why take up so much valu- able greenhouse or hotbed space, unless for Snap- dragon, if it is possible to start them in the open nursery the preceding year, to bring bloom in May and June? Third-Class Hardy Annuals Spring-Sovm. — Sweet Alyssum and Candytuft, the earliest to germinate, Eschscholtzia, Calliopsis, Calen- * For bloom beginning in April, sow Pansies early in August; for mid- May bloom, sow August 30. [32] WHEN TO SOW dula, Tagetes, Gaillardia, Nicotiana, Portulaca, Nas- turtium, Lupin, Lavatera, Zinnia, Globe Amaranth, Sunflower, Early Cosmos, Marigold, and Petunia belong to the third and still less hardy class of hardy annuals, and yet some of them are the first to bloom from seeds sown early in the open. While unable to with- stand the winter cold even in a cold-frame, most of them will germinate in spring without a glass covering while the air is still chilly. Frame space is not required for Sweet Alyssum, Calhopsis, Tagetes, Salvia farinacea, Gaillardia, Nico- tiana, Portulaca, Eschscholtzia, Calendula, Candy- tuft, Lupin, Nasturtium, Lavatera, and the last six are not easily transplanted, but when frames are avail- able, use them for forcing the earlier bloom of the following : Zinnia, Petunia, Cosmos, Globe Amaranth, Sunflower, Marigold. This advice applies especially to the use of the cold- frame near New York City east and west and north- ward to Poughkeepsie. W^ithin this area there are doubtless some very sheltered open places where Zin- nia at least might make almost as early a start and blossom almost as soon as in a frame, providing, how- ever, that an unusual late frost does not affect the growth. The gardener will soon learn what to ex- pect of his annuals in his own garden. [33] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA FOR BLOOM TILL FROST The Gardener's Guide in Brief summary of preceding page Third-Class Hardy Annuals Spring-sown Zinnia. First Division. April 1. Globe Amaranth. {First bloom, late June.) Under glass. Sunflower (miniature), if possible. Cosmos, early. Marigold, African. Petunia. April 15. Open bed preferably * Lupin (blooms 6 weeks). * Candytuft " " " , Sweet Alyssum. Calliopsis. * Calendula. Tagetes. Salvia farinacea (July). Second Division. (First bloom, June.) May 1. Gaillardia. Third Division. Open beds. Portulaca. Nicotiana. * Nasturtium. * Eschscholtzia. {First bloom, July.) * Lavatera (blooms 4 weeks). The plan for continuous bloom demands that these plants of the first division be started under glass by April 1. Those in the second and third division are better sown in the open. Those marked with a star should not be transplanted if avoidable. Portulaca, Petunia, and Nicotiana do not germinate in the open ground until nearly the first of June. I 34 J Platk VI Continuous bloom of annuals bordering brick path " Cherrvcroft " The scallop edge 'Cherrycroft," Morristown, N. J., Dudley Olcott, Esq. WHEN TO SOW THE TENDER ANNUALS Spring-Sown. — The tender annuals belong to a class of annuals that cannot survive the slightest touch of frost. They may be sown in the open (most of them) or else all may be planted out, only when danger of frost is past. However, when certain varieties are required to bloom in June, sow them in hotbed, win- dow-box, or greenhouse, from February 15 to March 15. The tender annuals advised are: Verbena, Begonia, Ageratum, Vinca, Lobelia, Salpiglossis, Torenia, Cocks- comb, Aster, Scabiosa, Painted Daisy, Balsam, Cle- ome. Heliotrope, Impatiens. Heliotrope and tuberous Begonias are best raised by cuttings in greenhouse heat. Choice Verbenas are sometimes propagated by cuttings. Lacking green- house or hotbed for starting them very early, the above-named may be purchased in plants, or Agera- tum, Salpiglossis, Torenia, Vinca, and Verbena could be started like Zinnias in the cold-frame April 1, which would be better than still later sowing in the open ground, as they are slow growing. Cockscomb, Aster, Scabiosa, Painted Daisy, Balsam, and Cleome are not required until later, so they may be sown in the open in May, and transplanted, if neces- sary, excepting Cleome and Painted Daisy, which do not transplant well. In spite of their beauty, it might not be feasible to ad- [35] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA mit into a small garden of continuous bloom such short- lived annuals as Schizanthus, Godetia, and Clarkia. But when beds are very large they may be entered as additional luxuries in small groups alternating with plants of one or two other periods of bloom. For instance, with Larkspur and Celosia spicata, or with Larkspur and Gladioli, the latter planted July 1; or with September hardy Chrysanthemums and groups of Scabiosa. These are all slim plants, and may be set about 6 inches apart, except Chrysanthemums, 10 inches apart. [36] WHEN TO SOW FOR BLOOM TILL FROST The Gardener's Guide in Brief summary of preceding pages Tender Annuals Spring-sown. Lobelia. First Division. March 1 to 15. Begonia, i&brous. Hotbed or green- Begonia, tub., cuttings. house. Heliotrope, cuttings. Impatiens, light pink. Ageratum. Vinca. Salpiglossis. Torenia. Verbena. April 1, cold-frame, Cockscomb. Second or Asters. Division. May 15, open bed. Scabiosa. Balsam. Cleome, Painted Daisy. In order to take their places promptly in the scheme for continuous bloom, those in the first division must be started early under glass. If there is sufficient frame space, those in the second division may be started in the cold-frame, except Cleome and Painted Daisy, which are better for being sown where they are to grow. [37] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA In this scheme for continuous bloom, the sowing dates given provide that late June shall be the week when many of the spring-sown annuals shall com- mence to furnish a fair bloom. Lupin, Lavatera, English Daisy, Silene, Poppy, Candytuft, Asters, Bal- sam, Salpiglossis, and Cleome are the only annuals named in this chapter that do not blossom for sev- eral months in congenial climate. In the author's garden the mid-June sowing of at least some of the annuals — Zinnia, Larkspur, Aster, and feathered Celosia — is unsatisfactory, as the plants not having made a certain start before June 15 are more or less stunted for the rest of the season. This may not be the case in a cool and moist climate. [38] Chapter V WHEN TO PLANT In one way or another, a garden may be commenced at any season. It is never too late to make some kind of a start for the future. Spring, of course, brings the most opportunity for work, and it is the best time for sowing perennials and Campanula medium for the next year. When desiring in summer to begin a new garden, one can devote first efforts to laying out the beds after consulting Chapter III on bed space: also a seed-bed or nursery may be prepared with the aid of suggestions given in Chapter II, in order to stock the future garden at a lesser expense than when plants are purchased. Important work can be accomplished in August, for then is the very best time for planting the Poppy, Lily candidum, Peony, and German Iris, and for sowing certain hardy annuals as explained on page 29. With perennial seeds, the earlier sown the better for plants that should give satisfactory bloom the next year. HARDY PERENNIALS May blooming hardy perennials should be moved, if possible, in the autumn; the earlier the better in [39 1 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA order to become rooted before frost. When the early- flowering plants are moved in the spring, it means that the first season's bloom will be more or less af- fected by the disturbance of the roots. Perennial Lupins seem to be an exception to this rule. The perennials beginning to bloom by mid-June or later may be set out either in the early spring or in the fall not later than October 15. This is a safe rule, although when occasion requires it, the experi- enced gardener often takes his chances, and success- fully, with later fall planting. Exceptions to the rule for spring and fall planting were just mentioned in connection with Lily, Poppy, etc., but, of course, these plants may be moved at other times as well. THE HARDY ANNUALS First Class The August-sown hardy annuals of the first class — Silene, Bluets, Feverfew, Larkspur, Forget-me-not (h. p.), and Anthemis — wintered in the open ground or frame, need not to be disturbed until transplanted in early April to the garden-bed, or as soon as the ground can be dug over and enriched, allowing a day for the settling of the soil. Where the winter climate is mild, it is also possible to transplant them all from the nursery to the garden by October 1 (not later for annuals), lest the cold in- jure those weakened by moving. As a result, they [ 40 ] WHEN TO PLANT might blossom a week or two earlier than when dis- turbed in the spring. However, transplanting them to the garden as early as October 1 is usually made impossible by the fact that the beds are filled with flowering plants at this period. At transplanting time a few plants of each variety may be left to bloom in the open nursery, where they will resow themselves for next year's bloom. In this case, if possible, keep at a distance from one another the difiPerent colors of Larkspur, so that their seeds will not be as likely to mix. The gardener, however, may prefer to sow annually his favorite colors, as self-sown seeds cannot be relied upon to come true. The hardy annuals. Bluets, Silene, and Larkspur, when sown in the spring under glass or in the open nursery, may be moved when 2 to 4 inches high. They don't transplant well if taller. For the purpose of replacing the fall-sown Larkspur and Feverfew, these same varieties sown in spring can be kept in pots, if convenient, to make easier the late transplanting. Shirley Poppies must not be transplanted at any time. Second Class The hardy annuals of the second class, Pansies, English Daisies, Dianthus Pinks, Snapdragon, Forget- me-not alpestris, when sown in August should be trans- planted by mid-September to 5 to 6 inches apart in [41] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA the cold-frame, or wherever they are to winter. In April they may be moved to the garden. If Dian- thus and Snapdragon and Forget-me-not are moved in early April, it is well to supply them for a while with a light protection of leaves or hay in case of a severe spring frost. Dianthus is the hardiest of this class, and will sometimes survive winter in the open, if not moved too late in the fall. Campanula medium, when large enough, should be transplanted in the open nursery 6 inches apart, and again transplanted to the cold-frame in September, set 8 or 9 inches apart. By Aprill5 it can be safely moved to the garden. Third Class Spring -Planted Only. — The third class of hardy an- nuals, those sown only in spring. Zinnia, etc., although classed as hardy, if started early under glass, are on this account more tender than when sown in the open. They should, therefore, not be set out before May 20, when severe frost no longer threatens. If they have been sown in the open, they can be transplanted when- ever convenient. TENDER ANNUALS The tender annuals sown under glass should not be moved to the garden until after all possibility of frost, which is the last of May near New York. [ 42 ] S to — 1 c WHEN TO PLANT TRANSPLANTING Most annuals will invariably live after being trans- planted if properly as well as sufficiently watered. Enough cannot be said toward urging the gardener first to puddle the holes when setting out the stronger- rooted plants. The surface of the ground should also be watered after the hole is closed over the roots. With the small, frail seedlings like Petunia a different sort of watering is necessary. First, soak thoroughly the surface of the soil, where the small plants are to grow; wait five minutes for the water to absorb, and then with a finger or stick make holes the depth of the rootlets for each plant, gently pressing in the damp soil over the roots. Don't sprinkle the newly set seed- lings for twenty-four hours, when they will be strong enough to stand erect under a light spraying. Wlien setting out small plants, like Cosmos, they may need to be supported by stakes to be kept erect. Instead of tying them at first, an operation which takes more time, it is often better to protect and steady each one with three twigs until the stem grows strong; by this means, too, they are kept safe from trespassing cat, dog, or heedless human. When they shall have grown larger they can be tied to a stronger stake, if nec- essary. The dead-wood removed from shrubbery is very useful for this purpose. In the spring just before planting time spread a [ 43 ] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA good layer of sheep's manure over the bed intended for annuals, and have the manure dug under only 2 inches deep and no more. It works down fast enough and most annuals are shallow-rooted. If the soil is not especially rich more sheep's manure and bone-meal can be added a Httle later in the season. Some of the finest gardens are never given any barnyard manure, which is more likely to bring weeds and pests. WINTERING OF PERENNIALS AND ANNUALS All the hardy perennials in the open nursery and the garden need more or less covering during the winter months. If available, there is no better pro- tection than salt-hay. Fall-sown (August to September) Larkspur, Silene armeria, Bluets, Feverfew, Anthemis, and Forget-me- not, var. palustris, winter just as well in the open as in a frame, except in an extremely cold climate. Pansies, English Daisies, Snapdragon, and Dianthus sown in late August in the open nursery, are trans- planted later to frames for the winter, at least near New York and northward. Campanula medium sown in May or June in the open nursery to bloom the following year needs the same winter protection as the Pansy. Where certain annuals must be wintered in cold frames, we should plan so that the frames contain none but the plants demanding such protection; then [44] WHEN TO PLANT in spring, just as soon as the frost is out of the ground, transplant them to the garden-beds, in order to allow for the use of the frame as a nursery for spring-sown annuals. Plants to be protected in cold-frames may have either the glass sash or else a square top made of laths, with a 1-inch space between each lath. The latter is sufficient protection for Pansies, English Daisies, Snapdragon, etc., except in a very cold climate. Some fine manure is always worked in around the plants, not over them, and a thin layer of hay or leaves covers them lightly. The laths keep out the heavy snow and the full sunshine, supplying a more even temperature than when under glass. The glass cover needs to be lifted on mild winter days to prevent overheating, but if it is not lowered at night, damage may result. The wooden top needs no attention; it should only be removed when the plants are ready for the spring growth. In the northern climate, where snow forms a winter covering, it is considered to be about the safest sort of protection. Biennial Canterbury Bells are some- times wintered in the open with manure above the roots, but not covering the plant itself, leaving the crown of the plant to be protected by brush or boughs from the heavy pressure of snow. [45] Chapter VI WHEN THEY BLOOM THE PERIODS In the region of New York City at least, the garden bloom may be divided into eight flowering periods, be- ginning about May 1. If, however, the beds are to he filled with color, con- tinuously during the long season, which ends only with frost, then usually space must be saved somewhere by the omission of at least one of these periods. Accordingly, the opening time in some gardens is generally the second period. May 22, when German Iris appears, and the late Tulips are still blooming; though it is often possible to include the first period by the use of a profusion of early Tulips, which oc- cupy no space when their flowers are gone. The other plants that have ceased to bloom when the German Iris begins, belong to the first period, and as a rule are deemed eligible only for the spring garden set apart by itself. Ordinarily this plan is preferable, as early May flowers are mostly low growing and small-flowered, necessitating too much of each variety before the color effect is obtained, and therefore making [46] WHEN THEY BLOOM them impracticable for the garden crowded with plants of the other periods. However, early spring perennials may have their places in the main garden when the owner is to be at home in May, and absent during some later periods. The flowers that will bloom only during his absence can then be omitted, allowing the use of that space for the earliest bloomers. In a colder climate, where plants make a later start, the blooming periods arrive in closer succession, the earlier periods almost blending in one period; the frost comes earlier, the season is shorter; therefore in the North planting for continuous bloom is not as complicated a task; there are fewer periods for which to provide and a lesser number of varieties of plants required. First Period * The most useful plants for early spring are the fol- lowing: May 1-22 Doronicum. Hyacinths. Early Tulips. Arabis. Phlox divaricata. Mertensia Vir. Phlox subulata. Pansies. Bleeding-Heart. English Daisy. Forget-me-not. Hardy Candytuft. Primroses — Primulas. * The flowers of early May, which is the first period, will be more thor- oughly considered in a later chapter on "Spring Gardens." [47 1 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA Second Period In this season of late May, the Pansies, EngHsh Daisies, Forget-me-nots are already edging the beds, and the Darwin and Cottage Tulips of every rainbow tint are adding wonderful colors. The garden is soon radiant with May 22 Valerian officinalis. Ranunculus acris fl. pi. German Iris. Columbine, tall vars. Lemon Lily. Gas Plant — Fraxinella. Oriental Poppy. Pyrethrum hybrid. Lupin polyphyUus. Salvia pratensis. Silene armeria. Campanula persicifolia. Bluets (Corn-flower). Peony. Sweet Rocket. Third Period When some of the foregoing have passed and others are lingering, i. e., Pyrethrum, Peony, Lupin poly.. Columbine, Salvia, Campanula persic, Silene, and Bluets, then arrive the June 5 Sweet William. Anchusa Ital., Opal. Lupin poly. Moerheimi. (Enothera Youngi. Campanula medium. Fourth Period This week is the richest in hardy bloom, those of the last period remaining a while with the newly arrived. [48] Plate VIII From photographs by The Morris Studio Curving grass paths Meadow Club, Southampton, L. I. WHEN THEY BLOOM June 20 Delphinium (all). Feverfew. Agrostemma cor. Coreopsis. Candytuft. Anthemis. Foxglove. Lily candidum. Lupin, annual. Lychnis Chal. Gaillardia. Sweet Alyssum. Larkspur. Fifth Period Indispensable at this period are the Anthemis, Fever- few, and Larkspur, of which one variety at least should appear profusely in every bed. Now or possibly a little earlier the following perennials may be expected: July 1* Hollyhocks. Japanese Iris. Achillea Pearl. Shasta Daisy. Phlox Lingard. Platycodon. Gladioli — Planted May 1. Up to this time the bloom of the early spring-sown annuals has been but a weak suggestion of the color to come. The time for anticipating the full glory of the annual family (spring-sown) varies from July 1 to August 1, depending on climate, germinating time and place. Sweet Alyssum and Candytuft, sown April 15, reach their perfection by June 20. Sixth Period Unless spring-sown annuals have been early pushed, and unless Larkspurs are plentiful, the mid-July bloom may wane at this time, until the late Phloxes and a few other perennials shall appear toward the end of the month. *Iii eur uncertain climate these dates are somewhat variable. [49] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA July 20 Phlox. Rudbeckia purpurea. Veronica, long subsess. Gypsophila paniculata. Dahlia, cactus, etc. Echinops sphseroceph. Eryngium amethystinum. Cannas, pink and white. Statice latifolia. All the annuals. Seventh Period Late August has a variety of perennials that are especially free-flowering, giving unusual color to this period. August 25 Asters, hardy. Helenium, Riverton Gem. Pyrethrum uliginosum. Helenium, Riverton Beauty. Sedum spectabile. Anemone Japonica. Salvia azurea and S. Pitcheri. Eupatorium coelestinum. Eighth Period September 15 Monkshood Wilsoni. Chrysanthemum (Sept. var.). Gladioh, planted July. Long-blooming annuals continued. In October the Chrysanthemums are the only worth- while perennials. The indefatigable annuals, such as Zinnias, Petunias, Marigolds, Verbenas, Ageratum, etc., are wearing a rusty appearance, making one feel that after all frost is not an unwelcome visitor this month. His blight saves us from brooding too long over a tired garden, when it is more important to be at work cleaning up and preparing for another year. [ 50 ] eOLOB MONTH HEIGHT Chapter VII WHAT TO PLANT Single star indicates desirable plants not appearing in the charts at the end of the volume. Double star indicates a useful plant for separate spring garden. HARDY PERENNIALS In planning a garden, read carefully to become familiar with names and habits of these plants. White Achillea ptarmica, var. The Pearl : Double Sneeze- July i wort. A rapid spreader. Yearly the outer shoots ^ ^^' need to be removed to keep the clump within its limited square. In the third year, lift the clump and renourish the soil. Transplant early in the spring. Thrives in any good soil. Needs staking. Use only in very large beds, preferring Phlox Lingard instead for smaller beds, as the latter occupies less space and is easier to handle. AcoNiTUM. See Monkshood. Garnet Agrostemma, var. coTonaria (Lychnis coronaria): july-Sept. ^^'*^ Dusty Miller, Rose Campion, Mullein Pmk. Woolly, ^J^ ft. silvery foliage; occupies but little space. Keep stock on hand from self-sown seedlings. Prefers sun, and soil not too heavy. Three or four plants 4 inches [51] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „„_ MONTH COIjOR _ _ HEIGHT apart to make a clump in small bed. Use plentifully, especially the white variety. Blooms all summer. Bl^g Anchusa Italica, vars. Dropmore and Opal: Sea June Bugloss. The Opal is the lightest blue and most beautiful of all. Plant in groups of two or three plants 8 inches apart. Self-sown seedlings may be removed to nursery to develop and returned to garden two years later. Succeeds in sun, any rich loam. Part of its coarse lower foliage may be removed when crowd- ing other plants. It is best to move it in spring. White Anemone Japonica : Japanese Windflower. Single, Sept. Pink waxlike plants. Var. Whirlwind is semidouble and larger; also other varieties. Thrives in any rich soil, not too heavy. Increases by root and grows in same position for years if liberally fed. In cold climate needs a winter covering of 3 inches. Use at least six small plants to make a clump. Transplant only in spring. Yellow Anthemis tinctoHa, var. Kelwayi: Yellow Mar- July 1 Creamy guerite; var. alha (catalogue), cream- white. Bushy plant. Grows in any soil. Seeds self-sown in abun- dance. Sun or partial shade. Rarely requires winter covering. Self-sown seedlings found in September make good plants next season. Treat as a hardy annual; sow in August or September, and discard after first season's bloom. Stake when a foot high. [52] WHAT TO PLANT COLOR ^ HEIGHT Aquilegia. See Columbine. White ** Arabis a/pzna; Rock Cress. A rock plant; forms April-May a mat. Joetter use it m separate spring garden, bun or semishade. Prop, by seed, preferably by cuttings or division. Rapid spreader. Twelve small plants to make a clump or mat 1 foot square. Blue Aster Novcb Anglice: New England Aster, Mich- Aug.-Sept. ^^^^ aelmas Daisy, or Starwort. Choose varieties bloom- Purple ing late August to September and 4 feet and over. Use plenty of White Queen and richest shades of blue, purple, and pink. Among the best are Novob AnglioBy purple; Mrs. F. W. Raynor, purple; Novcb AnglicB roscBy also rubra; William Bowman, rose; Lil Fardell, rose. In ordering from a nursery, one plant is so small that six at least should be ordered to make one clump, planted about 3 inches apart. Thrives in any soil; spreads rapidly by root. Needs staking early. Prop, by seed or division. Bachelor's-Button. See Ranunculus. Bellflower, Japanese. See Platycodon. Blanket-Flower. See Gaillardia. Bluebells. See Mertensia. White Campanula medium, also C. calycanthema : Canter- June 15 p-"^ bury Bell. Biennial. Single and double. Thrives in ^"^ "' rich soil. Var. calycanthema is cup-and-saucer type. [53]. CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^^ COLOR HEIGHT Sow May to bloom June of next year only, for three weeks. Plant them generously over the garden. ■Ctrl .. Campanula persicifolia : Peach Bell. Tufted f oli- June 1 Blue age at base of long stems. Plant rather close to- gether, four to six in a group, and use freely. Increases by root. Prop, by seed or root. Needs sun and light soil. Campion, Rose. See Agrostemma coronaria. ■rxn.. ** Candytuft: Iberis sempervirens. Evergreen foli- May 15 age. Six small plants 4 inches apart to make a clump "^' or mat. Rapid spreader. Tj- 1 Canna. The new white, also pink Cannas should July-Sept. White be used moderately in a large garden. Nothing is more effective. Place at ends of broad, long bed, near centre line. Canterbury Bells. See Campanula medium. Pink Chrysanthemum, var. Aster or large-flowering Pom- Sept. 15 White pon. For the garden of continuous bloom choose only Yellow those blooming by mid-September. Certain nurseries offer these large-flowered earlier bloomers in beautiful shades of rose, yellow, and white. Dislike very heavy soil. In some cold gardens they do not winter well, in which case give them cold-frame protection, and move with roots well "balled." Always give light covering, hay preferably; they will not stand heavy covering. Most of the hardy Chrysanthemums, when [54] WHAT TO PLANT »,onth COLOR . • •(> J HEIGHT growing close to a south wall, and occasionally lifted for renourishment of the soil, will generally live for years, at least in New Jersey and southward. To make a good clump, set three small plants (shoots) 8 inches apart. When a foot high, pinch back to in- duce branching. Tobacco dust is the best treatment when black aphids attack them. Prop, by division or cuttings. Chrysanthemum coccineum. See Pyrethrum, hybrid. * Chrysanthemum uliginosum. See Pyrethrum uli- ginosum. Chrysanthemum max. See Shasta Daisy. White Columbine: Aquilegia. Use the taller varieties. May-June Blue Prefers light rich, deep, well-drained soil, and thrives ^~^ ^^• Pink in sun or partial shade. When allowed to self-sow, the seedlings are abundant. Keep plenty of the strongest of these young plants in best colors for nurs- ery stock, as Columbine is not long-lived. Some gar- deners prefer to use more Lupins and hybrid Pyre- thrum than Columbine, because the latter is less ef- fective in the garden color scheme. Prevent large annuals from smothering the Columbine. Don't plant it in garden-bed until two years old. "To have the most vigorous and beautiful plants the two varieties — mixed Longspurs and var. vulgaris — should grow near together: then select the strongest of the seedlings [55] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH HEIGHT found about them, discarding all inferior plants and colors. The white vulgaris parent will always have white seedlings, no matter what form or color the other parent." If they are to be transplanted in early spring keep plenty of earth about the root. Fall planting of Columbine is preferable. CoNEFLOWER. See Rudbeckia purpurea. CoNOCMNTTM coslestinum . See Eupatorium coelestinum. Yellow Coreopsis lanceolata, var. grandiflora: Tickseed. June-Oct. Very hardy and increases rapidly by root and by ^ ' self -sowing. Likes almost any good soil not too heavy. Cut fading flowers and it will bloom till frost. Keep it in front of plants the height of Zinnia. Various Dahlia: Plant but one or two tubers. Hollow July-Oct. ground around stalk to hold water, water frequently. Plant after mid-May 3 feet apart. Daisy, Giant. See Pyrethrum uliginosum. Daisy, Shasta. See Shasta Daisy. Blue Delphinium Chinense: Chinese Larkspur. Light and June- ^^^*® dark blue, also white. Fine feathery foliage. If sown ^?}- ^^ in May or June will make strong plants the following year. Blossoms three times during summer. Plant near front of bed. Feed once during summer to help later blooms. Sun and rich soil. Blue Delphinium eZafwm; Bee Larkspur, hardy Larkspur, June- tallest variety. l^\^^ [56] WHAT TO PLANT ^^^ X)LOB HEIGHT Delphinium, Hybrid. Lovely shades of blue. Blue Delphinium formosum, var. ccelestinum, also hella- 4 ft. donna: Oriental Larkspur. Deep to light blue, not so tall. Also new white variety. White Delphinium grandiflorum, var. album, 2 to 3 feet. 2-3 ft. Delphiniums need well-drained, rich soil, not too clayey. Keep manure from contact with roots and sprinkle coal ashes around base of stalk in November to protect it from insect enemies. Plant in garden in second year. Cut back to ground each fading flower-stalk and apply liquid sheep's manure in mid- summer to insure strength for later blooms. If the large Delphiniums are allowed to flower three times during the season without ample nourishment to sustain vigor, they may die out that fall. When plant begins to deteriorate, divide it as early as possible in spring. DiCTAMNUS. See Gas Plant. Digitalis. See Foxglove. Dusty Miller. See Agrostemma. Bjjjg * EcHiNOPS sphcerocephalus : Round Head Globe July, early Thistle. Tallest variety, two or three small plants ^ together. Use only in large garden for additional variety. Prop, by dividing. Blue * "EiBYNGTOM amethystium : Sea Holly. Three small July plants, 6 inches apart, to make a clump. Use it only in large beds. [57] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COLOR , , _ HEIGHT Blue EuPATORiuM ccelestinum {Conoclinum coelestinum) : Sept. l Mistflower. Flower resembles the Ageratum. Plant ^^ ^^• remains dormant for some time after all others appear in the spring, when it is difficult to detect life in roots and for this reason it is often discarded for dead. Keep permanent stake above it. Spreads rapidly by root and is long-lived. Protect slightly in winter. Six to ten plants to a clump. Prop, by cuttings and suckers. Evening Primrose. See CEnothera. False Dragon's-Head. See Physostegia. White Feverfew, Double Camomile: Matricaria. Use June-Sept. 2 ft double white variety only. Sows itself freely and these seedlings are hardy and transplantable at any time, sun or semi-shade. Bushy plant. Cut back fading flowers to force later moderate bloom. It is classed with hardy perennials, but not to be depended upon for second-year bloom. Better treat it as a hardy annual and sow in fall to bloom late June. For best August to September blossom, sow seeds again in spring instead of relying on the later blooms of the older fall-sown plant which will have made its best showing in June and July. Blue Forget-me-not: Myosotis palustris, var. semper- May-June fiorens. Sow August for bloom the next year. After a summer's bloom lift the old plants and replace them, after renourishing soil, with the numerous seedlings to [58] WHAT TO PLANT ^^^^ COLOB HEIGHT be found in the vicinity. This suggestion is made in connection with the plants forming an edging to a bed which must be kept neat and straight. Pink Foxglove: Digitalis, hybrid. White and pink pre- June White ferred. Any rich soil. Sun or partial shade. Keep in ^^ ^^ nursery the plants less than 6 inches in diameter. The self-sown plant is the hardiest. In a severe climate winter in cold-frame. Will not tolerate heavy winter covering over the top. Be prepared to replace it after its third year. If not allowed to go to seed side shoots will appear for next year. Cut fading flowers for a second bloom. Prop, by seed. Fraxinella. See Gas Plant. Yellow Gailiardia grandiflora: Blanket-Flower. Easily june-Oct. with grown, but sometimes winter-killed. Give heavy 2 ft. Red covering. Set six plants 4 to 5 inches apart, to form disk Qjjg group. Grows in any soil, in sun. Keep stock in nursery. Garden Heliotrope. See Valerian. lYhite ^-^^ Plant: Dictamnus fraxinella. Use more of |^ i . P"ik the white variety. One of the most desirable of May's 3-4 ft. hardy plants. Give rich, deep soil and sun. May outlive two or three generations if left undisturbed. Leaves and flowers have peculiar pungent odor when crushed. Use one plant in small space. In a large bed two or three plants 1 foot apart. Slow growing. Does [59] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COLOR n M 1 1 • 1 P HEIGHT not blossom well until second or third year after plant- ing. Improves with age, and when well-developed forms a large bushy plant full of bloom. When there are a sufficient number of strong Gas Plants in the garden fewer Lupins will be needed. The latter are beautiful, but the plants are comparatively short- lived, requiring to be oftener replaced. White *Gypsophila paniculata: Baby's Breath. Bushy. July Place next to a spreading plant so that after its bloom the space may be partly covered. A line of Ewpa- torium coelestinum encircling it, not too close, conceals well the empty space, when Gypsophila dies down. Yellow * Helenium: Sneezeweed, var. Riverton Gem. Gold Aug. late tinged with reddish streaks. Var, Riverton Beauty, yellow with dark cone. Use six or seven nursery plants, set close together for one group. Stake early. Yellow * Hemekocallis, var. fiava: Sweet-scented Lemon May-June Lily. Needs deep, light, rich soil. Spreads rapidly. Six plants to start a group. Hesperis matronalis: See Rocket. ■^Yhitg Hollyhock: Althea rosea. Single or double, as July JJed preferred. Needs deep, rich soil and sun. Transplant X ink Yellow in spring only. Give treatment of Bordeaux Mixture early if brown spots appear. Needs heavy winter covering where climate is severe. Requires staking. Cut stalks down to ground when finished blooming. [60] OOIX>B WHAT TO PLANT MONTH HEIGHT When lifting it dig deep for long tap-roots. Self-sown plants that have not been disturbed make the finest specimens. Iberis sempervirens. See Hardy Candytuft. Various Iris Germanica: Fleur-de-lis. Six small plants to May 20 start a clump. Enrich bed with layers of manure, '^^^' avoiding contact of roots with manure. When it must be moved, July or August is the best time, in order to insure good bloom the next year. However, crowded beds may prevent transplanting until after frost. Prop, by division. Various Iris, JAPANESE: IHs Kwmpferi. Use six small plants July 1 to start a clump. Water freely. Enrich well, but ^ keep manure from contact with roots of all Irises. Occasionally needs lifting and dividing. Starting plants from seeds is not advisable, as it takes so long. Larkspur, Hardy. See Delphinium. Pink *LiATRis,var.p2/cno5iac/i2/a: Blazing Star. Purplish July pink spikes. This plant is not always popular on ac- ^ ^^• count of its peculiar tone of pink. White *LiLiuM auratum: Gold-banded or Japan Lily. July, late Gold White with gold bands and purplish spots. The finest * ft-' of the lilies, but lives only about three years. May be planted in spring or late fall. Prop, by offsets or scales. Plant in sand with base of bulb 8 inches below surface. [61] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COIiOB , ... HEIGHT White LiLTUM candidum : Madonna lily, Annunciation June, late Lily. Should be planted between August 1 and *~6 ^*' September 1, preferably August 1. Will multiply in rich, deep, well-drained soil. Cannot survive much shading from surrounding plants. Often does its best in rooty soil. Set this bulb with only 2 inches of soil above its crown. Surround bulb with thin layer of sand. Pink and * LiLiUM speciosum,, vars. ruhrum and Melpomene. August White Like Lilium candidum will increase in congenial soil, ^~* "• May be planted in late fall or spring. Surround all Lily bulbs with 3^ inch of sand. Put manure 23^ inches beneath bulb. Keep manure from near contact with bulbs. Set Lilium speciosum same depth as L. auratum. The above-named Lilies are the most popular of the many listed in the catalogues, *LiLY, Lemon. See Hemerocallis. White LupiNUS polyphyllus, var. Moerheimi. Appears ten June ■^"^ days later than the other variety. In congenial soil ^"^ "• both Lupins will give a second bloom, soon after the first flowers are cut off. Same habit as the following. Blue LupiNUS polyphyllus: Lupin, pea-shaped flower. May-June White Not long-lived. Keep stock in nursery. After the ^"^ ^*- third or fourth year it is apt to disappear. Needs 6 inches of winter covering in cold climate, and re- move two-thirds of this covering in late March, It does its best in rich, rather heavy soil, semi-shade, [62] WHAT TO PLANT COtOR HEIGHT and above all it must not be allowed to dry out — more dependent on moisture than any other hardy. Sows itself freely. Is killed by lime and Bordeaux Mixture. In a warm, dry climate, and in a sunny position, if possible, give it the shade protection of larger plants. Of all the bloom of this period there is nothing more strikingly beautiful than the Lupin. In some gardens it makes a fair bloom a year from the time sown. But sometimes it is not fully grown until the second year after sowing, depending on the treatment. Good soil and sufficient moisture hasten development. White * Lychnis Chalcedonica, var. alba : Maltese Cross. June, late Where tall, white bloom is needed, this plant for variety is effective in groups of six or eight plants closely set. Thrives in any sunny position. The red variety is of a tone that clashes with many colors of that period and had better be avoided. Prop, by seed or division in spring. Maltese Cross. See Lychnis Chalcedonica. Marguerite, Yellow. See Anthemis. Matricaria. See Feverfew. Meadow-Sage. See Salvia pratensis. Blue **Mertensia: Blue Bells. An exquisite sky-blue May 1 flower tinted pink. Gives plants a heavy marker as ^^ ™* foliage drops off in June. Set plants 6 inches apart, in line or group. [63] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ COLOB BEIGHT Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster. MiSTFLOWER. See Ewpatorium coelestinum. July-Aug. o 1 , 3-4 ft. Blue Monkshood : Aconite, Acomtum, vars. iStork s, au- tumnale, napellus. These are the earlier deep blue varieties and follow Delphiniums' first bloom. Blue Group six small plants to form a clump. Sun or part shade. Prop, by division. Monkshood: Aconite, Aconitum Wilsoni. The best Sept., middle variety for September. Grows in sun or shade. Self- sows freely. This deep violet-blue September peren- nial helps to enliven the mid-September garden when other flowers begin to look a trifle rusty. It follows immediately after hardy Aster, which bloom is gener- ally over by September 7 (near New York). For black blight use Bordeaux Mixture freely around crown, and spray leaves and buds when stalls begin to turn yellow before or at blooming time. Often dies out after five years. Use six small plants for a full clump. Prop, by division or seed. Mullein Pink. See Agrostemma. Myosotis palustris, var. semperflorens. See Forget- me-not. Obedience. See Physostegia. Lemon (Enothera, var. Youngi : Evening Primrose, Sun- June 1 Yellow (Jrops. Thrives in sun or partial shade. Light, rich ^^ ™' Wnite soil. The white varieties, 0. ccespitosa (10 inches) [64] MONTH HEIGHT WHAT TO PLANT COLOR and 0. speciosa (15 inches), are especially desirable for beds in semi-shade. Use four small plants to make one group. Various * P^onia: Peony. Double, semidouble, and single. June Whenever it must be moved, August is the best time ^~^ ^** to transplant in order to insure some bloom the next season, but this course is impossible if beds are full of bloom in August. Use only in very large beds. After roses, no plant requires such deep, rich soil. Roots go deep. The finest Peonies grow in beds where the soil is prepared to the depth of 3 feet, with two or three layers of manure running through it. Eight inches of heavy clay at the bottom helps to retain moisture. Sun or half-shade. Peach Bells. See Campanula persicifolia. Blue ** Phlox (^^^'ar^ca^a. Exquisite shade sky-blue. Set May, early twelve to fifteen small plants 3 inches apart to form a 10 iu- clump measuring 1 square foot. Spreads rapidly. Combines well with early pink or light-yellow Tulips. The Laphami var. is taller and later. ^^j|.g Phlox, var. Miss Lingard. It takes three or four j^^^^ ^j shoots to make a fair clump. The next year it will 'ater have doubled its size. In sunshine and rich soil with some moisture, if fading flowers are removed, it will have several blooming periods during the summer. Also blooms in semi- shade, as do all Phloxes. [65 1 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COIX3R , HEIGHT Various Phlox paniculata. The well-known, late-blooming July, late variety. Not as frequent a bloomer as Miss Lingard. ^ Allow about twelve stalks to a clump. Lift plant to enrich soil every three years in the fall. Cut off fading flowers to bring second bloom. The richer the soil, the better the bloom. Don't let it suffer from drought. Pink * Physostegia Virginica : False Dragon's-Head, Aug., late ^^^*^ Obedience. Two shades of pink, also white. Tu- ^"^ ^*- bular flowers massed at the top of a spike which is 4 to 5 feet tall. The blossom suggests a little orchid. Roots spread rapidly. A lovely flower for picking, but it is not altogether desirable for a full garden because of its spreading habit and its weak tone of pink. The brilliant pink perennial Asters blooming at the same time are preferable if color effect is the aim of the' gardener. This plant grows best in rich, light soil and sun. Use only in a garden where there is ample space to spare. Prop, by division in spring. Blue Platycodon: Balloon Flower, Japanese Bellflower. July ^ ® Rich blue, also white, and white mixed with lavender. The roots run deep and the soil needs to be deep and rich and not too heavy. Slight winter protection is required. Heavily covered with blossoms for three weeks. Needs staking. Prop, in spring by seed or division. In planting, don't bend long roots, but let them go straight down. [66] WHAT TO PLANT „^^ COLOR -n r\ T> HEIGHT Pink Poppy, Oriental: Papaver orientale. After the May, late ^^^ second year it sends up numerous strong flowers. ^ ^^' Avoid using the old vermilion-red. If the rich deep blood-red variety cannot be obtained, don't have red at all. Order the lovely pink variety, of which there is now an abundance in some nurseries. Don't depend on starting it from seed, as the color results are too un- certain. After blooming, the foliage dies to the ground, reappearing in a small growth in September. The tap-root goes deep and the soil should be rich deep loam. Requires sun. Best transplanted in July, if possible, when moving is necessary. With very small plants, set four together. Primrose, Evening. See (Enothera. Various **Primrose, Spring. Primula. Great variety. Use April-May for separate spring garden. "^' Pink Pyrethrum, Hybrid : Chrysanthemum coccineum. May, late .^.^ Single and double; white and several shades of red ' and of pink. Many prefer the single variety especially because the flowers are not as heavy and therefore more apt to keep an erect position without staking. There is nothing more welcome in the early garden than a quantity of these daisy-like flowers which, in good soil, sun, and with occasional generous watering and cutting of fading bloom, will remain in blossom nearly a month. Easily raised from seed, it sows itself freely. Don't set plants in garden until their [67] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „__ MONTH COIiOB ^ , ^ HKIGHT third year, as bloom of young plants is unsatisfactory and they had better be in the full sunshine of the nursery with nothing to prevent development. Guard against the smothering of the Pyrethrum by large an- nuals. If bloom must be had from young plants, group three or four close together to make one plant. They are prop, by division, as well as by seed. White *Pyrethrum uUginosum {Chrysanthemum uligino- Aug., late sum): Giant Daisy. Rapid spreader in rich light soil and sun. Resembles a large Daisy. Twelve plants to a clump. Prop, by division or seed, or by suckers. Yellow * Ranunculus acris, var. flore pleno: The real Bach- May, late 2 ft elor's-Button. Keep spreading roots cut back to a limited square, possibly in a clump 2 by 2 feet. Oc- casionally change position or renew soil. Use only in a large bed as it is a rapid spreader. Set out in groups of eighteen plants. Rock Cress. See Arabis. Wliite Rocket Sweet : Hesperis matronalis. Sweet-scented, June 1 resembles Phlox, rapid spreader. White variety pref- erable. Rose Campion. See Agrostemma. Pink RuDBECKiA purpurea (Echinacea purpurea): Cone- July, middle flower. This large, deep-pink flower with its heavy foliage is effective and worth planting where there is room for it. Especially as at this season there are few [68] 3 ft. 5 ft. WHAT TO PLANT "o^™ HEIGHT COLOB tall perennials in bloom. To form one plant, set three small plants 8 inches apart. Prop, by seed or division. Needs good soil and sun. May bloom six weeks. Sage. See Salvias. Blue Salvia azurea, and S. Pitcheri: Pitcher's Sage. Sept. 1 Grows in rich deep soil and sun. The former is sky-blue. The latter deeper blue. Set four nursery plants 5 inches apart to make a clump. Black roots have the appearance of being dead and do not sprout till late spring, so the plant is ever in danger of being discarded by the heedless digger. Keep permanent marker over it. Stake early, as its stalk is slim and inclined to bend. This lovely flower is not used enough. It looks well with hardy Asters. Blue Salvia pratensis : Meadow-Sage. The deep-blue May, late ... s ft spikes are 3 feet high when plant is established in its third year. Strong pungent odor when handled. Shows well next to white Gas Plant or White Pyreth- rum. Sows itself freely. Keep a small stock on hand in nursery. Needs rich loamy soil, sun or partial shade. Set three small plants 6 inches apart. * Santolina incana : Lavender Cotton. Silvery June-Oct. green, evergreen foliage. Bushy. One foot diameter. ^ ^*' Four small plants to start a clump. It needs to be kept pinched back into a shapely form. Sea Bugloss. See Anchusa. [69] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COLOR _ _ HEIGHT Pink * Sedum spectabile : Showy Stonecrop. Broad, light- Aug., late green, leathery foliage. Large, flat-headed flowers. ^^ ^• Increases by root. Leave undisturbed for some years. Plants are bushy and take up some space, but a few are desirable for the August garden. Avoid the palest pink variety. Propagate by division. Set two or three nursery plants together to form one plant. White Shasta Daisy: Chrysanthemum, vars. maximum, July-Sept Q tf Alaska, and King Edward VII. Often bear flowers standing 23^ feet high. Increases by root in congenial soil. At this season few plants are more effective, and later it blooms intermittently till mid-September. Prop, by seeds, division, or suckers. Place three or four small plants near together to make one good-sized plant. Sneezeweed. See Helenium. Sneezewort. See Achillea, PearL Starwort. See Aster. Blue *Statice latifolia: Broad-leaved Sea-Lavender. July, late 2 ft Bloom suggests Gypsophila except in color. Set one plant by itseK. Don't disturb it. Bloom strong only after being established two years. Bushy when in bloom. Stonecrop. See Sedum. Sweet Rocket. See Rocket. [70] WHAT TO PLANT COLOR HEIGHT Pink Sweet William, London Tufts : Dianthus barbatus. june, early Red ^^^ ^"^^' Newport pink, deep rose, also the light pink, ^^ ^°- white, and crimson varieties. Avoid mixed colored flowers. It is well to plant the white variety some- times next to pink or crimson. The plant is not long- lived, but is freely self-sown and a supply in the nurs- ery is always necessary. It thrives best in sun and in a rich soil that is not too heavy. In clay soil or in prolonged dampness it sometimes "damps off.'* Should have thick winter covering of leaves or hay and some coarse manure about the base of stalks, leaving tops exposed. Thistle, Globe. See Echinops. TicKSEED. See Coreopsis. White Valerian officinalis: Garden Heliotrope. This is May the old-fashioned variety. Use a few clumps, for its delicate beauty as well as for the sake of the fra- grance. Cats sometimes seek it and destroy it by lying in the low foliage. Subject to beetle pest. Use twelve plants to make a clump. Prop, by seed or division. Any good soil. Blue * Veronica longifolia, var. subsessile: Speedwell, juiy long-leaved Veronica. Blue spikes are 3 feet tall, ^ ^*' when well established in rich soil and not allowed to dry out. It is the showiest of the Veronicas. In a cold climate, early spring is the safest time to move it. Rich loam and sun. Prop, by division. Use three [71] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA „„^ MONTH COLOR 111 1 HEIGHT or four small plants close together to make one good plant. ** Viola cornuta : Horned Violet. Use only where ,yr r» «. Blue , ... . . May-Oct. Yellow considerable moisture is possible and a shady position. 8 in. White ^jjy gQQ^ sQJi Prop, by seed and division. Increases rapidly by root; clumps should be separated annually. WiNDFLOWER. See Anemone Japonica. 72 Chapter Vm ANNUALS Single star indicates desirable though shorter-lived annuals not named in charts at end of the volume. MONTFI ^T^T, MOST OF THESE ANNUALS BLOOM TILL FROST height Blue Ageratum conyozoides: Floss Flower. Half-hardy June-Oct. White annual. Use the compact, large-flowered variety, "Perfection," for a neat edge; there are other taller varieties for a looser edging. Set 8 to 12 inches apart. Start under glass not later than mid-March for June bloom. Will grow in partial shade, but does better in sun. Blooms abundantly till frost. Wliite Alyssum, Sweet, Madwort: Alyssum maritimum. June-Oct. Hardy annual. Variety "Little Gem" makes a lovely compact edging 6 inches high. A newer and dwarfer kind is A. compactum procumbens, useful when a very narrow dwarf edging is required. In August cut back Sweet Alyssum about half-way in order to have a vigorous bloom until frost. Sow in April or May. It will bloom five or six weeks after sowing and flower continuously till frost. Grows anywhere, preferably in light soil and sun. Anthemis. See Perennial list, but treat as hardy annual. [73] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COLOR o. o 1 HEIGHT Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon. White * Aster, China Aster : Callistephus kortensis Chi- Aug. Pink nensis. Tender annual. The many varieties make se- ** Purple lection diflScult. The branching Peony-flowered of August and the late branching Aster for early Septem- ber are among the most popular. Require sun and rich, light soil. Late in July, to prevent approach of beetle (if subject to it), spread ashes over soil at base of plants. If black beetles attack them, pick them off by hand, drop into kerosene water, and make sure they are dead. To begin with, it is well to grow samples of a dozen of each variety of Aster in the nursery or picking garden, and in this way decide upon favorites. Start under glass by April 1, or in garden in mid-May. They remain in bloom about three weeks. Enrich with wood-ashes, or sheep manure. When subject to blight, sweeten soil with air-slaked lime some weeks before planting, and use tobacco dust near roots. Pink * Balsam, Lady Slipper : Impatiens balsamina. Aug.-Sept. Yellow Tender annual. Rich soil and sun and moisture. If started under glass, set out plants 1 foot apart. It may also be sown in garden after danger of frost is over to bloom two months later. Sometimes con- venient to start it late in flats, and have it ready to replace Canterbury Bells, or other annuals that die about July 1. Transplanting twice dwarfs plants [74] ANNUALS COLOB , ^ ^ HEIGHT into better shape, and pinching out weaker branches produces finer plants, if specimen plants are desired. Pink Begonia semperflorens, var. gracilis: Elephant's- ^"^ Ear, fibrous-rooted. Tender annual. Light rose variety. Propagate by seed, or cuttings, the latter method preferable. Grows in rich light soil. Should not be allowed to get too dry. Very effective grouped inside of broad band of Sweet Alyssum. Blooms in sun or partial shade. Various *Begonia, var. tuberous-rooted. Grows best in semi- 1 ft. shade. Lift it just before frost and dry tubers. Winter this variety in sand in moderate temperature, cellar or elsewhere. Bellis perennis. See Daisy, English. Bluets. See Centaurea cyanus. Blue *Bbacbycome iberidifolia: Swan River Daisy. Half June-Aug. hardy. Set these little plants 6 inches apart in a line ^' directly behind Sweet Alyssum, when blue is required. It sends out drooping sprays of flowers which mix attractively with Alyssum. Sow in frame April 1 or outdoors. Pinch back once or twice to keep compact. Yellow Calendula q^cinaZ^'s : Pot Marigold. Hardy annual. June-Oct. Q [j Avoid the orange shade, unless it is to be used in a ^^ "*• yellow bed. Varieties sulphur yellow and the white Pluvilis are favorites. Grow quickly from seed in any light soil and sun, and are continuous bloomers. Set plants 6 inches apart. SeK-sow freely. ; [ 75 ] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA __ MONTH COLOR . , HEIGHT Yellow Calliopsis, Coreopsis: Tickseed, var. Crown of June-Oct. Gold. Flower resembles the perennial Coreopsis. ^ *^- Also variety Drummondii, or Golden Wave, which is quite similar to the foregoing but has a small brown centre. Newer than the old taller yellow and garnet varieties and have a longer bloom, if fading flowers are cut off. Sow a close double row to make a bril- liant edging, or else use it just behind Sweet Alyssum. It is hardy and will bloom till frost if flowers are not allowed to seed. Sow where they are to grow, and thin out, but when very young they are transplantable. White Candytuft: Iberis umbellata. Hardy annual. If June a long bloom is desired, make successive sowings; the ^ first, soon after April 1, to bloom June 1; sow again May 1 to bloom July 1 for three weeks. Two rows of successive sowings may thus grow behind some later and long-blooming annual that edges a bed; for in- stance, behind Nasturtium. By the time the Candy- tuft bloom has passed the Nasturtium will begin to flower. The massive pyramid or spiral Candytuft has a longer bloom than the others. Blue Canterbury Bell: Campanula medium; also C. June ^^^^ calycanthema, biennials. The latter is the cup-and- saucer kind. They thrive best in rich soil and moisture. Staking is necessary when weighted with bloom. Cut off faded flowers and another lesser bloom will follow. Discard plants as soon as bloom is over. Sow seeds in [76] i ANNUALS „^_ MONTH COLOB 1 • T • 1 • HEIGHT May, transplant m June to 6 inches apart in nursery. In September place 10 inches apart in cold-frame, if the climate demands the glass or slat covering in winter. Give air to glass frame in warm winter days. Place plants in the garden in early spring. In a mild climate transplant to the garden in September or October and cover lightly. They die under heavy cover. Celosia. See Cockscomb. Blue Centaurea cyanus: Bluet, Corn Flower, Ragged May-June ,^^ Sailor, Kaiser Blumen. Hardy annual. Use the tall ^^ ^^' varieties. Bloom for two months if not allowed to seed. A mass of these plants close-set makes an effec- tive group, especially when surrounded with two close lines of Silene armeria. It is best to sow them in August or early September for May and June bloom, so that later their space may be filled with some spring- sown plants like tall Cockscomb. Sun and almost any soil suit them. Watering and cutting prolong bloom. Rose * Centaurea moschata, var. imperialis : Sweet Sul- June Lilac j-g^jj ^ large thistle-like, sweet-scented flower. Thrives ^^ "^' Wrnte . Buff best in cool, moist climate. Not so hardy as Corn Flower. ^yijitg * Chrysanthemum, vars. coronarium and Burrid- July-Oct. Colored gianum : Painted Daisy. Tricolored. Tender annual. ^^ ^** Best to sow where it is to grow and thin out. When 6 inches high pinch back to make bushy. Frequent cutting prolongs bloom. [77] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^^ COLOR „ ^-. • -r» • HEIGHT White *CHRYSANTHEMTlM/rwie5cen5,var. Marguerite: raris June-July Daisy. Tender annual. Generally grown from cut- ^^ ^*' tings. Buy the young plants in May so that the best bloom will come the last of June. Plant out May 15. Pink *Clarkia elegans. Half hardy. Double. Sun or July semi-shade. Use in a large garden when great variety ^ "* is required. Set plants 5 inches apart. White Cleome pungens : Giant Spider Flower. Tender July ■^"^ annual. The white variety is especially effective. A tall, slim plant with large head, occupying as a single plant but little room. Crimson CocKSCOMB, FEATHERED : Celosia 'plumosa. Vars. Aug.-Oct Yellow Thompson, magnifica, and Superb, are taller than "* the Castle Gould variety. Tender annual. Use the latter near front of bed. Cockscombs grow in any good soil, not too heavy, sun or partial shade. Sown in open ground, seeds do not germinate until about June 1. Better to start Cockscomb under glass April 1. When sown in the cold-frame, if it does not ap- pear as early as other seedlings, don't give it up, but await warmer days. The feathered variety is almost the height of tall Zinnia. Pink Cockscomb: Celosia smcata. A tender annual. Aug.-Oct. This newer variety, while not as rich in coloring and form, is yet quite effective in groups of three or four [78] ANNUALS COLOB ... . • 1 i HEIGHT plants, rising in slender spikes above Vmcas, dwarf Zinnias, etc. Late in the season the pink turns to white. Coreopsis. See Calliopsls. Corn Flower. See Centaurea cyanus. Pink Cosmos, early var. In rich soil and sun, and with July-Oct. ^^^*^ fading blossoms removed, the early kind is a long and ^"^ free bloomer. Sow under glass by April 1. The crim- son shade approaches so near to the magenta, an un- popular color with many, that it may be best to use only the pink and white colors. Yf\a\je Daisy, English: Bellis perennis. Hardy annual. May P"^ Sow seed in August for spring bloom. Give winter ° ^' protection in cold-frame, except in mild climate. Needs moisture to keep it blooming well for five or six weeks. Discard plants after first bloom. Daisy Painted. See Chrysanthemum Burridg. Rose DiANTHUS CMnensis : Pinks. Hardy annual, double June-Oct. '^^m^^ and single. Many prefer the single variety, of which ^ ^*- Salmon Queen and Eastern Queen are fine specimens, particularly effective behind Sweet Alyssum. When using a red variety, plant the double white "Snow- ball" with it, for better effect. Sow Portulaca of same color, sometimes sparingly, around a group of Dianthus. It does best in rich, light soil and sun, with some watering in dry times. Sow in open nursery in [79] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COIiOK ^ HEIGHT spring, for bloom three montlis later, or else under glass in February or March for bloom in late June. Under favorable conditions it will survive the winter in the open. Yellow EscHscHOLTZiA : California Poppy. Hardy annual. July-Oct. This pretty border flower requires light soil and sun and is at its best in a sea climate. It is essentially a sun plant. While it thrives near the sea, it sometimes "damps off" in long continued rains, even inland. * Euphorbia. See Snow-on-the-Mountain. Yf\^te Feverfew, Mayweed: Matricaria capensis, alba, ^une-bept. plena. Hardy perennial, but treat as hardy annual. Use double white variety only. Sow in August and September, for June bloom. Again in May for Aug- ust flowering. May also be propagated by cuttings and division. See same in perennial list. Blue * Forget-me-not : Myosotis alpestris. Var. Vic- May-June toria, one of the best of these biennials, will survive ^ ^' cold winter with sufficient protection. Sow in August in frame. •^Yliite * Fuchsia: Lady's-Eardrop. Tender annual. In a June-Oct. and pink Jry^ hot climate this plant succeeds only in partial ^"^ com- bined shade, with ample watering and light, rich soil. When- ever possible, use standard Fuchsia as a background to the lower ones. Choose the pink-and-white com- binations. Buds may be picked off at certain times [80] I ANNUALS „„^_ MONTH COLOR ^ ^ HEIGHT in order to induce a more profuse bloom when most needed. Buy plants. Gold and Gaillardia, vars. picta and amhlyodon : Blanket- jg L. Red Flower. Hardy annual. Profuse and continuous bloomer. Set 5 inches apart and plant in groups. Any good soil and sun. Garnet * Globe Amaranth; Gomphrena. Hardy annual. July-Oct. Pink Plant a patch 3 by 2 feet of the garnet-red nana com- ^^ ^' pacta, 8 inches apart, margined with a band of the pink variety. Grow in sun and any good soil. Shell- *Godetia. a delicate, beautiful flower. Half July pink hardy. Does best in rather poor soil. It is not a long bloomer; if alternated with China Aster will finish blooming before the Asters begin. Use only in large garden where great variety is required. Gomphrena. See Globe Amaranth. Helianthus. See Sunflower. Blue Hejaotb.oi'Ii: Heliotropium. Tender annual. Grown June-Oct. in standard form to the height of 3 feet or more, ^ ft. and 1 ft. it is a most effective plant, especially when used with low-growing Heliotrope or Ageratum at its base. A mass of low-growing Heliotrope with a border of Sweet Alyssum or white Petunia is also desirable. The common lilac shade is the more sweet-scented. Variety centifleur is more popular with its rich tone of deep blue. Generally propagated by cuttings in green- [81] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COLOR HEIGHT house. Cut off fading flowers to prevent a rusty look and to encourage bloom until frost. Iberis. See Candytuft. Light * Impatiens sultani: Zanzibar Balsam. Tender an- July-Oct. pink jjual. Grouped behind Sweet Alyssum in a pink bed, ^^ ^' it is most desirable. Pinch back to induce branching. Once started, it is easier thereafter to propagate it from cuttings. The light-pink variety only is advised; is more often seen in England than in this country. White *Lantana, var. alba perfeda. Half-hardy annual. June-Oct. A mass of this white plant is often useful. Set plants ™' 7 or 8 inches apart, pinch back centre stem consider- ably to produce bushy plant. Keep plant trimmed to 12 to 15 inches in height. Blue Larkspur: Delphinium. Hardy annual. One of JuIy20-O ■^^^ the most valuable of the annuals because of its tall g^^^^^ Crimson spikes and fine colors. When fall-sown it blooms at a ^ period (July 1) when the mass of showiest hardy peren- nials are not in flower (near New York) and the other annuals are only just beginning to bloom. It may be sown also in spring, producing flowers three months later, and thus two sowings provide Larkspur for a long season. Give the fall-sown plants a light, loose winter covering. In early spring transplant to the garden. Sow the spring-sown ones in the open nurs- ery or frame, and move to the garden with roots [82] ANNUALS ^^^ COLOR HEIGHT balled, when 2 or 3 inches high. Set them near the elder ones if needed there, or sow in garden. Pink *Lavatera trimestris grandifiora rosea: Mallow, July-Aug. Hardy annual. Generally sown May where it is to ^ ^** bloom, and thinned out to 10 inches apart. Grows best in sun and rich soil and needs plenty of water. Thrives near the sea. Rather a bushy plant. Use only in large garden where more variety is desired. In flower about a month. Blue * Lobelia, var. Crystal Palace compada. Tender June-Oct. annual. Very effective growing with low Sweet Alys- "^' sum. Set Lobelias 5 inches apart in any light, rich soil, sun or semi-shade. Propagate by seed or cutting. Only frequent watering will give prolonged bloom. Does best in cool climate or else semi-shade. Dark * Lobelia, var. Tenuior. Tender annual. A taller June-Sept. blue variety. Use only when sufficient moisture can be Yvnite eye supplied, if long bloom is required. In a dry climate it is not long-lived. White * Lupin: Lwpinus. Hardy annual. Grows easily May-June p!"f and quickly in congenial surroundings; rather difficult to transplant. Needs plenty of water in dry climate, and a good soil that is not too light. Prefers semi- shade. Sow seeds 5 inches apart April 1 for bloom six weeks later. Once established in a place like a wild garden, it will often perpetuate itself indefinitely. [83] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA ^^^ COLOR HEIGHT Pale Marigold: Tagetes erecta. Hardy annual. Use Jime-Oct. Yellow ^pi^jajj variety. Lemon Queen. Not as dainty as most of its neighbors in the garden, but gives so freely to the garden decoration that it should not be despised. Marigold, Pot. See Calendula. Matricaria. See Feverfew. Myosotis. See Forget-me-not. Pink * Nasturtium: Tropceolum. Dwarf variety. Hardy June-Oct ^'^^^ annual. The red colors are apt to conflict with other shades, so choose only the pink and white shades. Seeds sown May 1 behind Pansies near the border of a bed come up nicely to succeed the latter. \Viiite NicoTiANA affinis: Tobacco Plant. Hardy annual. July-Oct. Sweet-scented, excellent for shady position, as well as ^~* ^*- sun. Closes its petals in bright sun. Set plants 1 foot apart, and pick off the broad lower leaves to prevent crowding when plant has grown. It self -sows so freely that it is unnecessary to buy seeds the second year if you are familiar enough with the young plants to preserve the seedlings when they appear — about June 1. Transplants easily. Blue Pansy: Heartsease. Hardy annual. Most gar- April-Oct. Yellow deners sow the Pansy in late August, to bloom the ^ ^' Red following spring, and winter it in a cold-frame, from Lilac ^Q^ij- York City northward. Farther south they are usually wintered in the open ground under a cov- ering of leaves or hay. To do well, the Pansy should [84] ANNUALS „,_ COLOR .... . HBIGHI have rich, fine soil and moisture. It is also sown in spring to bloom in late summer. It is more satisfac- tory to choose your own seeds, letting the lighter shades predominate, as they are more effective in the garden. Plant in patches of solid colors, or in alter- nating colors that blend well. Pansy bloom can be had continuously from May to October by having two sets of plants, fall-sown and spring-sown. In the shorter, cooler seasons of the North, Pansies need not be replaced. Piak Petunia. The single-bedding Petunia seems to be June-Oct. White longer-lived by a few weeks than the larger and double ^ ^' or the fringed varieties. Use the single and compact Petunia, as it makes a neater and more even growth. Have white Snowball. Rosy Morn, Pink Beauty, and Brilliant are best in pink. If particular about colors, do not depend upon self-sown seeds, as they are apt to revert to original color. Remove fading flowers. Sow April 1 under glass, if bloom is to begin June 25. White * Phlox Drummondii. Use this charming plant July, late _rmk ^ijgjj ^Q gardener has time to replace it with some- thing else after its comparatively short bloom. It generally blooms about six weeks. Plant 10 inches apart. Pinch out main shoot to induce bushy growth and to prolong flowering season. Keep from going to seed. Sun, good soil, and watering necessary. [85] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COLOB , , , HEIGHT Poppy, California. See Eschscholtzia. Pinks * Poppy, Shirley, Corn Poppy: Papaver Rhces. May, late, or ^^eds Hardy annual. Poppies sown about August 20 will J"ne,late bloom late May. Sown April 1, will bloom late June. When they come up very crowded, thin them out. Those who would use Shirley Poppies in masses in a garden of continuous bloom must be confronted with a serious question: What to do with the space they cover after the bloom of three or four weeks? When sown the previous August to bloom in late May, they will be ready for removal by mid-June, and are easily replaced by long-blooming annuals like Celosia or Zinnias, which are not so difficult to move at this time. If, however, they are sown in spring, the space will be flowerless for the ten or eleven weeks of their grow- ing period till they bloom in late June. When they depart in mid-July, it is not as simple a matter to re- place them. Possibly the best advice, especially when spring-sown, is to sow them in a thin line or in small clumps, near plants that will later spread over their spaces. Prefer cool or moist climate. Pink * PoRTULACA : Sun-plant. Hardy annual. Fewpeo- July-Oct. Buff P^® ^^^^ ^^^ *^^ ordinary mixed colors of this plant; ^ "^• but used under separate colors, possibly rose and white, it makes an attractive edging. In the shade and at sundown, this flower closes up, detracting from its beauty. Does not germinate until about June 1, and then develops very quickly. If particular about colors, [ 86 ] ANNUALS „oNTH COLOR HEIGHT do not depend next year upon self-sown seeds, as they are apt to revert to original color. Seems to do as well in poor as in rich soil. Various Salpiglossis grandifiora: Painted Tongue. Ten- July-Sept, der annual. Lovely shades marked with colored veins. Blooms for two months under congenial conditions. Plants are slim and can be placed 5 inches apart. Prefers rich, light soil. Sometimes difficult to start, and more often satisfactory started in the greenhouse. In some places where it does as well when sown in the open, a second sowing can be made in garden for late bloom. To make them effective in the garden, plant at least eight in a group. Blue * Salvia farinacea : Sage. Treat as hardy annual, July-Oct. blue. Bushy plant, flowers in long spikes. Use only in large bed, as one plant occupies considerable space, possibly 2 feet square. Yellow *Sanvitalia procumbens, fl. pi. Creeping plant. June-Sept. Tender annual. Small double flowers. Set plants ^ ^' 6 to 8 inches apart. Mixes well with Sweet Alyssum. Can be kept compact by pinching back, or else let it creep out in slender sprays over a broad patch of Sweet Alyssum. Better sow under glass. White ScABiosA : Sweet Scabious, Mourning Bride. Hardy July-Oct. ^^ annual. Use tall variety. Flowers grow on long stems, ^"^ ^*^- reds with but little foliage, so plants may be set 6 inches Violets apar^ {j^ groups. Has a long, continuous bloom. [87 1 CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH HEIGHT Prefers rich soil, not very heavy, may be started luider glass, but grows quickly from seed sown in the garden after frost time. White *ScHiZANTHUs: Butterfly-Flower. A tender green- June, July house luxury, covered with blossoms for a month. "^' A few may be used in a large garden if they can be later replaced by a long and late bloomer. Use light pink preferably. Pinks * SiLENE armeria : Catchfly. Hardy annual. Used May, late White -j^ masses, or as a band (in two rows) around a mass of Bluets, this plant is a valuable addition to the garden when German Iris is in bloom, and later. It is especially attractive when white and the paler of the two pinks predominate. Sow in August in open nursery or cold-frame. In cold climate needs a little more winter protection than do Bluets, but will die under heavy covering of manure. Use salt-hay or straw moderately or slat-frame. Plants may be set 4 inches apart. Moisture prolongs bloom. White Snapdragon: Antirrhinum. Tall variety. Hardy June-Oet. ^^^ annual. Possibly the choicest of all the garden plants. Yellow May be had in full bloom through the longest season if sown in hotbed or greenhouse by March 1, and again, in the open by May 1. When June bloom is desired and if it cannot be started in spring in heat nor purchased in plants, then sow in August, and * American catalogues. [ 88 ] ANNUALS MONTH HEIGHT winter it in cold-frame. Needs sun and moderately rich soil that is not too heavy. Remove fading flow- ers to prolong bloom. In Maine, with its shorter season and cooler, moister climatev the early spring sowing is sufficient. Whitish *Snow-on-the-Mountain: Euphorbia variegata. July-Oct. foliage Tender annual. Foliage plant, green and white. Six plants grouped 10 inches apart makes an effective mass in a large bed. Plants are strong and bushy. Yellow Sunflower, Miniature, Single: Helianthus cucu- July-Oct. to Cream merifolius. Hardy annual. Indispensable in the plan for a long bloom, easily raised, and a continuous bloomer. While young keep it from being crowded. One plant to a space. Yellow * Tagetes signata pumila. Hardy annual, a dwarf June-Oct. form of Marigold, with a more attractive fragrance ^' and a finer, more fern-like foliage than any of the others. Compact growth and with small flowers. A row of these plants 10 inches apart near the front of a yellow bed adds sunshine to the garden for those who care for yellow. Pinch back once or twice. Tobacco Plant. See Nicotiana. Blue * ToRENiA Fournieri. Tender annual. Beautiful July-Oet. little flowers on a bushy plant. Thrives in semi-shade and rich, light soil. Better to start it in greenhouse or hotbed. Set plants 6 inches apart in line or groups. [89] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA MONTH COIiOB , , HEIGHT Touch-Me-Not. See Impatiens Sultani. Pink Verbena, Mammoth. Tender annual. Use deep- June-Oct. ■^ J^ blue Verbena venosa, and the darker-red variety and, red if possible, secure the pink, Verbena, var. Francis. ^ ^ Set plants about 10 inches apart. When branches grow long peg them down to the earth to take root at these points. Remove all fading flowers and the bloom will continue till frost. To make sure of germination, soak seeds in tepid water for two hours; sow in rich light soil in March (for June bloom) in house or hot- bed or greenhouse and transplant to flats. Plant out after frost time. Verbena dislikes heavy soil. White Vinca: Madagascar Periwinkle. Tender annual. July-Oct. Rose Ugg jjiore white, and white with pinli eye than plain ^' deep pink. Sow in hotbed or cold-frame. Set plants 6 inches apart in lines or groups. When planting a line make it a double or triple line for better effect. Its position should be not far from the front edge of the bed. •p\n]c Zinnia: Youth-and-Old-Age. Hardy annual. Care- June-Oct. Buff fully avoid the deep yellow, also scarlet. One of the White most useful of all the annuals. In some beds the taller variety is desirable, and again the dwarf kind is preferable. Sometimes the taller may be used in a line behind a line of the dwarf variety. For June bloom it must be started under glass by April 1. It transplants easily in any size. With constant cut- [90] i ANNUALS ting off of the fading bloom, it continues to look fresh and vigorous until frost. Sown in a sheltered sunny corner of the open nursery. Zinnias will begin to show their color just before July 1, a little later than those sown in the cold-frame April 1. Unfortunately few open nurseries have warm corners. As the seeds un- der separate colors may not all come true, sow also a packet of mixed Zinnias from which to take the favorite shades in case there are bad tones among the plants of separate colors. BULBS Canna use Pink, White only. * Dahlia, Cactus, single, etc. Allow one or two tubers to a plant, make a slight hollow in surface of soil above roots, and apply water freely when the bloom is unsatisfactory. Store tubers in winter in moderate temperature. Plant in May or June. Gladioli. Plant 3 inches deep. They bloom two months after planting. Give house protection in winter. Tulip, Early Variety, dwarfer. Tulip, Late: Darwin, Cottage, May-flowering. When flowers fade, remove them, but let the foliage re- main until dry. If they must be lifted to make room for other things plant them in good soil outside the garden and place them in beds again after frost has destroyed the garden. They are better left undisturbed. [91] MONTH HEIGHT Chapter IX MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE A CITY YARD The following brief plan might be adapted to suit the small area of a city yard, and the photograph op- posite this page, of a pergola for the rear of such a 3^ard is a delightful suggestion for the town garden. Covered with Wistaria bloom in May, and climbing Nasturtium in September, how cool and green within and how bright and cheerful this patch of country color brought into the city's barrenness ! When the laundry can be elsewhere provided for, the grass plot may be filled with Daffodils and the two periods of Tulips, covering a season of six weeks. Later the green sod gives no sign of the hidden bulbs. The small beds at the four corners overflow with annuals early and late. The most suitable of these for a semi- shady yard in spring and September are Pansies fall- sown and spring-sown, or else fall-sown Pansies fol- lowed by white and blue Ageratum, compact Petunias or Torenia, or else the Tulips mixed in with Viola cornuta, h. p. The latter plant in partial shade with [92] MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE ample watering is supposed with care to bloom on from mid-May till October 1. The two long bordering beds, if possible not less than 3^ feet deep, can contain the same combination p e r % o 1 a b- ^ X '^«. <- — => 4^ <^y \v Z>c- 3 ^ >io n ■V Grass. Ci- f^ Co Of ;> c J y sc 'M'M ri:*- MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE tain flowers which are our best garden blossoms. They mostly long for the smi, from its rising to its setting, providing they have sufficient water. They show their disapproval too of the wandering tree roots that find their way to the rich soil of garden-beds. Undoubtedly the garden that is treeless will produce the finest plants in the greatest number, but there are gardeners who prefer fewer flowers and more green foliage and more shadows. Beneath the high-arched trees, the few shade- loving plants can be used, but these are not often of the class which give much color effect. In such a garden growths of evergreen shrubs are especially wel- come, while in every open space, where the sun will always find them, should be grouped the flowers that give the beloved color. The gardens shown opposite pages 102 and 104 are beautiful examples. When trees are not desired within the garden, at least they should have their place in the background as a setting to the garden, when there is room enough for them on the property. They should be considered, with the wall or hedge, as part of the boundary plan. The trees in the background of the attractive but simple garden in Plate XV might almost be called its chief feature, thereby illustrating the argument in favor of a setting of trees in which to frame the garden. When starting a new place or garden, do not cut down a single tree until you are positive it will never [103] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA be needed. An established tree, especially one grace- fully shaped, may sometimes be found to be invalu- able, literally worth its weight in gold, as an orna- ment within or outside the garden. No new tree could replace it in this or the next generation. If trees are to be planted as a background to the garden, the Weeping Willow has its advantages, growing quickly, the earliest and latest in foliage, healthy and easily trimmed to shape. Contrary to prevailing opinion, it will thrive in (some) dry places, and its roots are no more troublesome near a dry garden than other tree roots, for they mostly go down deep, seeking moisture. Of course the Willow is not as long-lived as Oaks and others. It would be possible often to set out a line of Willows or Apple-trees beyond the garden wall, and to place, 50 or 60 feet behind them, some English Oaks, which are slow-growing. When the Willows or Apple-trees shall have lived their day, a future gen- eration will bless you for the Oaks. Always try to plant for the future as well as for yourself in the present ! THE ROSE GARDEN The Rose garden which is planted with monthly Roses furnishes the house with cut flowers during a prolonged period, and this may be all that is expected of such a garden, but there is yet one more thing that it may supply if required. Ordinarily, the color [ 104 ] MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE effect in Rose gardens is weak compared to the rich bloom of the main garden; possibly this point is not a matter of importance to the owner who considers the place more as a picking garden where the pleasure lies in gathering baskets full of lovely color for the house vases. However, should one wish to increase the color in the Rose garden all that is necessary is to border the beds with the dwarf pink or red Baby Ramblers, set about 1 foot apart. These Baby Ram- blers have several periods of bloom, if trimmed back to within about eight inches of the ground, after each bloom, and providing the plants are amply fed and watered. They are profuse bloomers. If the Rose bed measures about 5 or 6 feet in width, two rows of the taller best blooming varieties are sufficient for the inner space of the bed. La France, Dean Hole, Etoile de France, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Lyon Rose, Madame Caroline Testout, Gruss an Teplitz are among those which flower the most freely. In order to take away from the flatness of a Rose garden, where the plants are mostly of a uniform height, standard Roses can be used at the comers of the beds, and climbers may have a place in the background, and covering arches over the paths. In the climate near New York City, the standard Rose does not often survive a winter in the open, therefore the following treatment is advocated. In the late autumn open a trench deep enough to lay [105] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA the standard Rose plant full length, with a covering of earth about 8 inches above the bushy part. Mound the ground on top so that water may run off, and not settle there. Add a layer of manure on top. This same method is often employed for the winter pro- tection of other Roses of the more tender class. If Gladioli are planted in the Rose beds July 1, they will flower in September when the Roses are not quite as numerous as in the preceding months. Dry blood and sheep manure occasionally for nour- ishment, Scotch soot once or twice to intensify color of leaf and flower, slug-shot dusted on the wet leaves and sprayed off two days later will conquer the pests if applied weekly for a while — these are the first rules for summer treatment of Roses. CONTINUOUS WINTER BLOOM IN THE FLOWER-BOWL From the Garden Indoors the flower-bowl may contain an unceasing supply from outside for twelve months, although the garden products are supposedly limited to the months of little or no frost. November arriving in our cold climate finds for its adornment only hardy Chrysan- themums, almost ready to succumb, while some foliage and grasses still retain paling tones of russet and red. Then the garden is almost forgotten until the Cro- cuses and Scillas come in March. But, during the [ 106 ] I'latk XV Trees as a background 'Fairlawn," Lenox, Mass., Miss Kneeland Trees in Preston Garden Columbia, S. C. MISCELLANEOUS GARDENING ADVICE long interval of many weeks between fall and spring the bowl on the dining-table need never be empty if there is at our disposal outdoors the evergreen Myrtle- bed, and the cheerful berries of the Berberis, the lat- ter leafless, of course, when first brought in, but soon in the temperature of a warm room it will put forth the daintiest of tiny spring green leaves, which never develop to full size under these conditions. Use a low glass flower-bowl, and within it at the bottom a round glass slab filled with perforations to hold flower stems. These stem supporters are ob- tainable at almost every crockery-store. Cut sprays of Myrtle (Periwinkle) about 6 inches long and twigs of berries from the Barberry bush, and mix them not too densely in the bowl. Both plants will make new growth for a while, and they need not be renewed more than three times before March, if the water is changed several times a week. It is with delight in mid- winter that one beholds this welcome, though simple contribution to the table decoration. Later, for a change, instead of Barberry, small branches of Forsythia as well as Apple-blossoms can be forced into bloom, and always the Myrtle is invaluable as a foliage setting. Its blue flowers will not appear by this sort of forcing. [107] Chapter X SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS The author's earlier book, "The Seasons in a Flower Garden," is more or less a collection of the simpler "Do's," and "Don'ts," of garden-life, and conse- quently it would not perhaps be very profitable to add much of general advice on the care of plants for the completion of this volume. A few additional in- structions, however, especially for those who have not had long experience, may be found of use at this point. THE FIRST RULE After the garden has been planted avoid the notion that thereafter only a little care will be required — that the gardener can go to the garden when all the rest of the work on the place has been attended to. It should be garden first or else no garden. No garden is better than a poor, neglected, slovenly plot. Economizing on the gardener means waste of plant-life and disappoint- ments generally. By order, I do not mean that plants should look as rigid as an inverted broomstick, which happens some- [108] SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS times when they are too tightly tied in the middle. Let the main stem be supported by stakes, tied with green cord, with the side branches free to spread as nature meant they should, except those that need to be pinched back to induce branching, or when they are shading some plant requiring light. "When Cosmos, Sunflowers, Dahlias, or any of the plants with a strong centre stalk are allowed to have "humped-backs," then the garden begins to look neglected, and after several days of such crookedness they are like Humpty Dumpty, for nothing can make them right again. How- ever, spreading plants like Petunia, Verbena, Ageratum, etc., may sprawl freely without being ungraceful, only take heed lest they sprawl over something that wants to be left alone and free. Another sign of neglect is when fading flowers are not removed. Zinnia, Helio- trope, Ageratum, and some others will wear a very rusty look when thus neglected, which is hardly to be toler- ated in the garden that we love. When it is desirable to cut back part of a perennial that has finished blooming, allow suflScient foliage to remain to permit of continued breathing and feeding through the pores of the leaves. PEONIES If a Peony plant is crowding other things, trim it only lightly at first, and loosely tie the stalks together. By mid-August it can be cut down considerably, as it [109] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA will then have acquired most of the vigor necessary to sustain its bloom for the next season. For this reason July is a good time to feed its roots. When Peonies must be moved, August is the best month, in order that they may take root again before becom- ing dormant. LILACS Within a month after the Lilac has finished bloom- ing, cut out the suckers from around the base, feed and water it generously, and you are quite sure of fine bloom the following year, providing the shrub has been established in its place a year or more, and that the soil is even moderately good. The same rule holds for all shrubs needing to be improved, and which after blooming proceed to make their buds for the next year. Perhaps it is needless to add that the pruning time for this class of shrub is immediately after blooming. Don't prune Lilacs often. PRECAUTION IN THE PERENNIAL BED An extra precaution for the preservation of our perennials is not to have the beds dug over in spring until nearly May 1, near New York City, and some- what later in a colder place. The most careful digger is apt to stab the unseen plants, or to break the very brittle young shoots of plants just appearing. How- ever, by April 1, lift carefully with a fork most of the litter from the beds. [110] Pi.ATi: XVI From a -photograph by J. H. MacFarland Co. Peonies in mass Long Island From a photograph by J. H. MacFarland Co. Shirley poppies Bar Harbor, Me. SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS PERMANENT MARKERS There are a few perennials so late to appear in spring that it is well to mark their places with an iron rod, as wooden stakes are apt to break off in winter. These plants, which are quite long-lived are Anemone Ja- ponica, Salvia azurea, and Eupatorium ccelestinum; and, because of its longevity. Gas Plant also deserves a permanent marker as does Mertensia, because its foli- age disappears soon after bloom is over. PLANT IN STANDARD FORM With the exception of the standard Rose, Americans use few plants in standard form. It is to be hoped that we are soon to give more attention to this method of getting the best effect from certain plants, for un- doubtedly the standards outrank all others in pro- fusion of bloom. The plants in standard form to be found in some American catalogues are Rose, Helio- trope, Fuchsia, Laburnum, Snowball, Weigelia, Locust, Wistaria, and Hydrangea. Some of them may be kept in tubs, and moved to the garden at their bloom- ing time, replacing some earlier blooming variety; for instance, a succession of Wistaria, Snowball, Rose, and Hydrangea; but Heliotrope and Fuchsia bloom all summer. LUPIN AND GAS PLANT Perennial Lupin poly, and Gas Plant bloom at the same time, the one in colors of white and blue, the other [ 111 ] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA in white and pink: both doubtless equally popular. Lupins live only a few years at the longest; Gas Plants are very long-lived, and therefore give better satis- faction. If possible, however, in the narrow beds al- ways endeavor to grow the Lupins rather than Gas Plants, as the latter when full-grown are too bushy for a small space. It takes several years before their roots are well established, and they become pro- fuse bloomers. Plan for them eventually in most beds. See illustrations opposite page 24. In the first three years of a new garden Lupins should be freely used while Gas Plants are slowly developing. The later blooming Lupin Moerheimi is invaluable to its period. GENERAL HINTS When a Privet hedge is desired, choose the rounder- leaf variety. The foliage of the slim, more pointed leaf is not as dense. The rounder-leaf Boxwood plant is also generally preferred as an edging. Because the life of Arbor-Vitse is scarcely over seventy-five years, it is well to select as a hedge plant some longer-lived evergreen. Consult a nurseryman of your district. Hollow slightly the surface over the roots of shrubs and deep-rooted plants to keep all the water from running off. In moving annuals, the size, for instance, of 5-inch [ 112 ] SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS Larkspur (larger Larkspur do not transplant well), water from a cup, with a pail near by, is more easily and directly applied than from the spout of a water-pot. The plants most sensitive to disturbance should have several cups of water to soak the hole and soil around the roots. Don't depend altogether en rain-soaked soil when transplanting annuals. Heavy clay soil may be broken up by a thorough mixture with it of ashes or sand and if possible leaf- mould. It takes less of sand than of other substances to make the clay friable, but the former, of course, impoverishes the soil, and necessitates plenty of fer- tilizer to counteract this effect. Leaf-mould, unless in large quantity, without ashes or sand is not sufficient to lighten clay soil. In planting Pansies, use in the majority of the groups masses of separate colors, rather than mixtures, and let the whites and yellows predominate. Set out good-sized plants in April, if they are to adorn an early spring garden. This means the sowing of them August 1. Those intended to begin bloom in late May, should only commence to be at their best about May 20, and for this reason don't sow them till late August, and plant out May 1. If Wistaria will not bloom, some one advises digging down about 2 feet to cut off a part of the tap-root in order to force out more of the fibrous roots which will produce blossoms. [ 113 ] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA For very best results sow Hollyhocks where they are to grow. It takes so long to raise bulbs from seed that it is not worth while to attempt it. When transplanting, move Irises, Oriental Poppies, Lilies candidum if possible a month or two after blooming to insure more perfect flowers the next year. In congenial soil they can remain undisturbed and prosperous for years. Rhododendron, Azalea, and Laurel must not be treated with manure, but need plenty of leaf-mould in the soil and old leaves over the surface of soil winter and summer. With choice specimen Boxwood, brush off the snow as soon as possible before it begins to melt. Ashes near, but not in contact with bulbs is ad- vised when they are menaced by mice. Unless the soil is renourished, few annuals do well in the identical space for more than two successive years. Never forget that removing fading flowers on an- nuals prolongs bloom. The same rule applies to per- ennial Coreopsis, Agrostemma, Feverfew, Delphinium, Gaillardia, Foxglove, Lupin, Phlox, Salvia pratensis, and Shasta Daisy. The annuals especially requiring an early start under glass, are Heliotrope, Begonia, Impatiens, Lobelia, Schizanthus, Torenia, Sanvitalia, Brachycome, Lan- tana. Euphorbia, Vinca, Verbena, and Ageratum. [ 114 ] SOME MINOR SUGGESTIONS Where soil is but moderately rich, the climate hot and dry, and frequent sprinkling impossible, sow Cam- panula medium in May as they will be slower in grow- ing than those started in late June under more favorable conditions. When planting annuals and perennials, avoid plac- ing roots in contact with manure. A careless gardener generally ignores this rule, and the result may be disastrous. Pink Zinnias and Petunias in the best rose tones, are perhaps the most important annuals in a garden of prolonged bloom, but unfortunately, these seeds are most unreliable, especially those of Petunias and the dwarf er pink Zinnia; neither does the light yellow shade always come true, and a dark red Zinnia is al- most impossible to obtain. In order to procure plants of the right colors, sow more than will be required; you may then reasonably hope to find a sufficient number in the desired shades. Gardeners who are particular about color blending should attempt to secure their own seeds from the best shades of the following plants: Zinnia, Petunia, pale yellow Anthemis, the most double white Fever- few, and light pink and white Silene armeria, but with only a little of its magenta pink. Feverfew left to self-sow in good soil will supply us the next year with three or four successive crops, offering the opportu- nity for a monthly first bloom of this useful flower, in- [ 115 ] CONTINUOUS BLOOM IN AMERICA stead of the later and weaker bloom of the older plants. The latter can be discarded for new ones; nothing transplants so easily. In the scheme for con- tinuous bloom, Feverfew, Larkspur, Canterbury Bells, and Zinnia are invaluable. The latter only has a long and uninterrupted bloom, but the others are useful in supplying bloom at times when otherwise the garden coloring may be weak. The author's final message for perfecting the plant- ing in a bed of continuous bloom is to use sufficient plants to prevent any vacant spaces being visible after the plants have reached maturity. Plant should touch plant, and there will inevitably be fewer weeds, and the massing would become more harmonious and ef- fective. [116] PLANTING CHARTS PLANTING CHARTS The following charts do not contain quite all the plants that may be included in plantings for con- tinuous bloom. It is a question of preference where some are concerned. Large gardens could have a few- other varieties, some of which are named and marked with a star in the chapters on "What to Plant." The names on charts printed in black ink are per- ennials; red ink indicates the annuals. The author's earliest experiments were made in her own garden, and later experiences in the larger gar- dens of friends furnished ample opportunity for de- veloping satisfactorily an accumulation of ideas and aspirations. The charts are facsimiles of successful plantings. In attempting to follow the plans, successful results will be at last attained only when the gardener has learned the knack of crowding without detriment to the plants. Any one familiar with his flowers will know when to allow a 6-inch space to a slim annual, and 18 inches to a bushy perennial, and when to fill a space with one or with more of a kind. Staking the plants likely to lean over and the trimming of the spreading lower leaves that are shading a neighbor are absolutely necessary for success in such beds. [119] o o o "^ -1^ a; CO H- H H a; .2 M o CO Q >< 1 > A pi, S 2 3 1 1 a C/2 ^ 3 P M g o ^ s H Iz; t-T a; ;2; •5 ^ ^ 1-:; 5 PL, OJ J g a, w) ■^ " ** ,-; .-, 4J Q CO O -tJ C CO to '^"^ 9. SIS'*' a» s-^^ S cS 03 T .^ B 0) m ^ -a ^ S rt c S3 ii PhPhCA2H ««-SftS " a a Jh n. 3 w 3 ^ d s ^ " *-> -S •- ^-a. a; • - fl "O _j *• "q^ 1^ a S "^ .- c3 cS CI > aj a» 5 =s a. 1^-3^ a ^jri a a-* ....s ^ S.S.a ^i2 2^ O ,— JS" K CO -— O. q aj 4i o iS ® P Pi a '-' -3 l=! 3 rt Ph aj |> *-> ai ^ ^ ^ OJ M t/3 aj p^ fe a) CO C Ph e« j- ^ CO •'^ ^ sd^.a CO " & ^ JS "cS aj S - "^ '^ a^ 4h P< a >? ■73 m MO S tj > g^ CO a-Q « "^ ,ir c3 aj cocccc ^ g aJ±>-S J J3 ^ aj ^^ ,- g d °u CO > t« ra o eS O 0) o3 hH [^ >om3o <-5 <3 4 ^ ^ -Si — o c3 J! ^ 5' V. o i c o O O .'"0 .0 i3 M> If iff (0 vi) 3rf> Jj5 ^"3 vi) ,i: ^ ^% a- L a; "c/> -0 U j3cP ';; £ ^ £ r/5 o o I to r-9 l^ -o g t £ e5 >' ^ ^1 W e9 ±£ J-' a o V" J-^^ U3^ T^^ d{Q -3 i^ 3 f<3 (0 ll o r c P .2 'S ^ 3 > ^ ^ ^ ^ pi ? 1^ I Is CO CO P ^ en w -i2.[y3o .a p. If o ^ H CO CO P^ < <1 1-4 a g 1 '^ ^ § 'T3 0) ^ O w 1— 1 1— 1 1 Q Ph P3 w H ^ o Ph C/2 q <4-l P ^ c« h •(J 2 p, to 0) 0) • o ? CO o a 1^ a'S — rt 9 ^ • - fl *:; o . - ^ Bf a =< -, -r^-^; ^ a> g "■ r-l d, be a £ o o > »« o .,a i^^ 3.S Sir's ^-S^ ^ w w w S" 03 J< 3 ,5 rS ;:« O ^ ^ H^ g O pL| Ph «2 CC ID ris ft w) So o o fl C a eo :=! 00, « o.a oj 3)S o « ■ S 3 ., - tu > 2 g fe S PI 3 --T b "^ o ^ |ft«,J^ -^ a „ ft . •> =2 a «3 rt O 3 <=! o ft C ^-iS2c2'^ ft rt-s m acs-y ^ ^ "E BP-- .2 •■^ CO ^ ^ ^ s 9 a M Ib^ ^sS 03 d Sp^ 5P m t^-rj U O P* (U o y -Si ,P =o =^ 2 a o M d ^s 03 ^ -"^ --a, "aT IB « o d -fj ^ r2 i§|.a a '"I 1^ « WW tn 3 a *« ft^ S ^^o a ^j CD *y CO C y O •a s^ a 05 d 22 .2 "^ ... O - « CO „ j^ CO rfl "^ +J JS.2 \P m ^ 3 9 aj +j ^ ft s".a^^ 00 ftM i2cfi d.g^ d « o g^'ft^ -§ ^s a«-2 ^ s^ =*-:,^.': .-§ Ph 3-|.y P^.a be '" S" s w 1: li OS ^ a ^ s J^ 5s (H o S «2i o3 -a . ^ ....a > ^ tH .2^ 2 „ too o I— I Q I/} P H fe ^3 ^ f? 7 pq o & m O O hi 6C a . "^ a ft 4-J g E cp &D " Q oj - - u c ^ ^ ft"^ ~ -S cs tn ^H .T; 5R ^ ft ^ S 03 C S 1 CO f= " o g- ft. a : eo c »o , CO gco^ftCj^-O ft-O ■J o< ^ '^ o g > ft 11 ^?liir-li|l til |raJii|°i5i°S3i e3 ft M i I _ 3 4) a-D-g O O fe - i'O'i ft''"" c6 05 ID -d o . d .3 ^ 2i ft ■* tn i-H .-1:^ C<5 OT d t--9 .. ftjS O ^ 61 a'ftoo CO .a O tS .ac ~ "ft O) CO P GO t.r ™r d) <« ftS a^ tj 3 d c o o e* -71 h ^ -a M &.( aj 41^ cS cS 3 be ClTX ft ft JJ I a ^ S,co oj o » ?3 -co- 1^ ft ^ •-^ ft X o ®* -^ 6 "o «> 'p^* J • '■ t^ -OS d .-ti « fe s J> ;S ft 1, .-cfi O en o d .• .13 ••- rt °fi d 03 3 I^I'^Jl'.aa S^-^ga^g.dd'^aftg^os "2 i:ft|eo §':a3 3:a §|Sf,o s-S^a^ gi33 3:3fto3s„- Mdmcs-d oa^2 >a; " ^ S»2-c O O w •- . S 5 _ D D 4J _d • S ij '5 .1^ .ti j2 ft o ^ g -^ -^ . . d««.d '^ ^ ^ ^- £ d ft a .. § Si ft > j.a 2 1 ant5 Ivia line ^-H cd J ft(/2^ 00 a CJ 03 cS o d^ °G2 -^^ a) Q 0) a".2'^ *j ft d 60 03 03 41 d .2 > °o ft »fl o 1—1 g >. CD d >, 03 .. 3 .2 ~T3 c 03 . . cS & ';= 4j s 5^: > o o d a 1 ^ .Q o in ^^' ■? S 2 O a d d S --uik- o H < ■ft 1^ s p Ph GO PP O ■5 « 5ph 5 pi^ 2= a; r'O OT rxa ^ ii g ft c ■" ;g -o i; ^j- ft^ -g ^ -^ :5 m£ d ft g-s_^ ^g^gft^l . I'mtT o'ft§ i^ 4J . . so _g !D S o ' — ' .^ O O O HT 6iC^ 5^ "5 • - -C tu gP^PL(C/2(X! ftO tn TZ. ^« CO cu c .„ a u . =3 0) ft tH « 4-) 4) rG OS ■'* 0) .- ■s:a "ft •- 1} s <0 . -^"_, ft-S ■5 '-' pr ft ft o '3 4) a M o p '^ ft 5 a A^ ^ 4) 42 1 o a ft -1^ CJ (U Pj fl s 43 -<<1 U ■5-2 ":5-g ft'' g'Ti'ft f-:a • fl M S* „ '^ ft O fl >— I ^ •» 3 -d 4J , .^ ^ 2-5.3 o^.a ^'^ F^ o :a "^j ' s a^'irJ^ D S S 4) § ei fl-^^js ft ^^ tn ft 41 4) eS 13 -o ^ ■a c3 5 ^ ^'' 4> % c 4J ti ■ft PI 1 as u rc3 cs 4j %■% i ^^ 4-> C3 *' fl ;-> «3 c3 4) a^ -< 4J.H (V UD o ^ ^ fl s ■>; 4J 4) 4> 4> Is ft ^ U i tn 42 4> o ce -e ft « t» 4) -2 >i ■ft 4) i £h _ a h 13 CO s 4) cS :S.3 .». "o .- >5 ^.s : S^ •ES7 ■so 2-5 -^ ---^ ft . S-s 03 fl 4) o.-y tn 4^ ^^ ^ t3 "ft fi 4) M .ti'ft r :) rs i^ .- - ft w CO 0^ en rr\ — < eg fc;««3 >4'=2;ftin 4J 42 I^Ph 5^ E2 08 =0 4) iJ 4) cs dsty^^ < o w 3E>>^\rs h rD^ \s »es PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. V FOUR SMALL OPEN BEDS Dimensions of Outer Oval, 19 x 22 Feet Centre Bed — 5 Feet Diameter. Bird-Fomitain Pedestal Base — 2 Feet Diameter PERENNIALS Lilium candidum; 9 bulbs, around bird basin. Tulip, late, Cottage variety; pink and white; 18 bulbs, on circular line in centre bed. , ANNUALS Ageratum, var. Perfection; 8 plants in a line on inner Pansy; in 2 beds; white and blue, mixed; 5 dozen or edge of each of 2 beds. more in a bed. In 2 beds mixed Pansies, 3 dozen Daisy, English; 2 dozen; mix with Pansies, in 2 of the or more in a bed, with English Daisies. beds. Petunia; in 2 beds, pink Petunias edged with white Heliotrope, Standard; the large Hs stand for Stand- Petunias. In 2 beds, white Petunias edged with ard Heliotrope; 3 plants in each small bed; 5 plants pink Petunias. About 36 plants required for each at regular intervals in centre bed. bed. CHART NO. V Four Small Open Beds — Dimensions of Oval, 19 x 22 Feet. (For H, see opposite page) PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. VI PINK, WHITE, AND SOME BLUE Round Bed — 14 Feet Diameter PERENNIALS Anchusa Italica, Opal; 3 clumps; 2 or 3 plants 6 inches apart, to clump. Campanula persicifolia; white, blue, alternating; 8 or 9 clumps; 4 plants to clump. Chrysanthemum, September-flowering; 2 pink, 1 white; 3 clumps; 3 plants, set 6 inches apart, to clump. Delphinium belladonna; 4 plants. Foxglove; pink; 3 plants. Gas Plant; 2 while, 1 pink. Iris, German; white; 2 clumps; 6 plants to a clump. Lupin polyphyllus; white and blue; 4 plants. Phlox, late; 2 pink, 1 white; 3 clumps. Platycodon; 2 white, 2 blue; 4 groups; 2 plants to group. PjTethrum, hybrid; pink, white; 9 plants; large. Shasta Daisy; 4 groups; 4 or 5 plants to group. Sweet William; white and pink alternating, in outer line; 9 plants. Remove after bloom, fill spaces with Heliotrope or Dianthus. Tulip, Cottage, late; white, pink; 9 groups; 3 bulbs to a group. ANNUALS Bluets, mixed; 20 or more plants massed together in centre (2 feet diameter), bordered with line of Silene. Canterbury Bells; pink, white; 6 plants; set in front of Feverfew. Dianthus, Chinese; pink; 9 groups on outer edge; 3 or 4 plants to group, alternating with patches of Sweet Alyssum. Feverfew; white, double; 5 plants behind Canterbury Bells. Fall-sovm and May-sown. Heliotrope; groups of 3 plants; 8 or 10 groups in spaces near front. Larkspur; pink, white; fall-sown, also spring-sown (F. and S.); possibly 6 or 8 in Chrysanthemum line and 4 white on Zinnia line. Pansies, fall-sovm ; white and lavender alternating. Scabiosa; set 5 or 6 near together in a line in 3 groups, alternating with Snapdragon and Vinca. Silene armeria; 1 close line encircling Bluets; later remo^"e Silene and Bluets, giving more space for Zinnias. Snapdragon; white, pink; 8 plants. Sweet Alyssum, Little Gem; plant in 1 line patches al- ternating with Dianthus. Vinca; white. Set a few Vinca plants near together in 3 or 4 spaces behind Pyrcthrum line. Zinnia; pink; tall variety; 4 or 5 plants, to be the centre background by midsummer; plant just outside the Bluets, which are later removed. CHART NO. VI Round Bed — 14 Feet Diameter ^^ns'ies (^eavN'd^ I PLANTS USED IN CHART NO. VII PINK PREDOMINATING Large Square Open Bed — Diameter 20 x Diameter of Imier Circle, 3 Feet PERENNIALS Feet Agrostemma cor.; 4 clumps of white, 2 of garnet; 4 or 5 plants to clump. Anchusa Italica, Opal; 5 groups; 3 plants to group. Chrysanthemum, September-flowering varieties; 5 groups, 3 pink, 2 white; 3 plants to group. Columbine; 6 pink to fill 6 spaces. Delphinium Chinense; light blue and white; to fill 4 or 5 spaces on two sides of bed; 2 plants to space. Delphinium formosum; 3 plants near centre, also one D. belladonna near each corner. Feverfew; double white; 10 plants; 2 sets. Foxglove; white, pink; 4 groups; 2 plants to group. Gas Plant; white and pink; 3 or 4 groups; 2 plants, 8 inches apart, to a group. Iris, German; pinkish Queen of May clump at each corner; 3 clumps on inner line. Iris, Japan; white; 3 or 4 clumps on inner line. Lupin Moerheimi; 6 plants; white, pink. Lupin poly.; white; 7 plants, white. Peony; white, pink; 3 plants. Phlox, late; pink; 3 or 4 large clumps. Phlox, Lingard; 4 or 6 clumps. Poppy, Oriental; pink; 8 large plants. Pyrethrum, hybrid; 10 pink and white plants. Rudbeckia purp.; 4 large plants at comers; 3 plants, 6 inches apart, to a group. Salvia azurea; 3 or 4 groups; 4 plants to group; behind late Phlox. Sedum spec; 4 clumps; 4 corners. Shasta Daisy; 8 groups; 5 plants, 6 inches apart, to group. Sweet William; light pink and salmon-pink; 3 dozen, alternating with Tulips. Tulips, Cottage; selection of pink and white varieties; in groups. ANNUALS Bluets (Corn Flower); white, pink; massed in centre of bed; edged with Silene. Candytuft; white, pink; sow a few seeds in patches late April, alternating with Petunia spaces behind Pansy line. Canterbm-y Bells (Campanula medium); pink, white; 15 plants. Cosmos; 4 or 5 plants; early white, pink; plant on outskirts of Bluet-Silene patch. Geranium; 36 rose-pink, if Impatiens is not ob- tainable. Impatiens Sultani; 48 light pink only; if it can- not be had, use pink Geraniums. Larkspur; white, lavender, pink; falUsovm; 8 spaces; 2 or 3 plants to space; spring-sovm also desirable. Pansy; white, lavender; in a line 3 inches from edge of bed; replaced by Petunia and Verbena. Petunia, compact; white, pink; 4 or 5 plants to a space, alternating colors in spaces. Scabiosa; groups of 10 plants near together; planted around Canterbiu-y Bells. Silene armeria; encircle Silene and Bluet group with a line of string and stakes. Snapdragon; white, pink; use if possible 2 dozen in bed. Verbena, var. Francis; pink; in patches, alter- nating with white Verbena on 2 sides. Zinnia; pink, tall variety; in Poppy spaces; 9 plants or more in bed. Poppy dies down soon after bloom. In climate where season is shorter Pansies may be omitted. CHART NO. VII Large Square Open Bed — 20 x 22 Feet. Diameter Inner Circle, 3 Feet ■^"'' ■. d . i eP ^ r "^ - 1 S '^ A (^ - i- 1^1 = «0 r '2- -1 .X. if (/» ^ ' i» j: 3 ^ h ^ (P r 3^ "w (/I -c :^ S P- pQ 3 .-E- ^ cP r - ^ 1 ^^ ^^ il -^1 -J «J -I -J 'Fetonia V C cs 3 w S cs-o bo M 0«« • - u c c 5j t, .5 is _>i > '-n cS ?3 "S Jj j> OJ « C JS -^ in 3 -q _d .- o 2 i =^ T3 aE-i S 2 c« 08 -^ 3 . ss o ^ £ S ^ * ? -: S -3 -g X > 3 J £■^3 S.S is-^ 3 as el-53 2 2 en I- o --3 1^ .2 S "O eS > "tn vr-^ 3 _i rt d xrxifi ) .-"fcc 3 3 N ^ •» c3 m 5!! 3 ^^ o •--^ :a 3 C 3 ^ ; . 0) » O 3 *J .S3 S s i o . § ■^33= 2 8 3 U >=-= H ^ _ •- 3 .2 ".a >>H 3 < 3 ^-> < ei3 « Ph Pi d < ^■^..,^^ . * , , ^*"v^ • • \. • « o \ . ^ i o O i§ "^ W « 5^ J Q) A- (iP / "^ < O ^ ■^ • ^^^^^^-'-''''^ • * — -.^..^^^ « • ^""""■-v. • t \^ t O • fll \- ■- JC \ ;:.E , £^ / 9-^ V /•<• « ^ « * ^^^_,,.-^^''^ • "^^^C^» • * • ^""^^ s. • « X \ ^ o :i o \ — — f-^ "^ A p - y n >< ^-^ « e • P5 o O Q o h^ < H O o t— I H O y2 '3 13 3 o > *^ "^ a to o =« 2 — sas a; If '^ B v' "" o . to fi 60 J- - &, H-1 ^ ^ 5 '^IfSi a CO "3 ^.^ _ o i" rt o c; tj^&O'S^— ^ a|.c4.g S^l g- NOTES PERTAINING TO THE CHARTS The bed of perennials in Chart XI, on preceding page, is for the purpose of showing the possibiHties in such a planting. However, besides the Petunias, this bed has need of such annuals as Cam- panula medium. Larkspur, Feverfew, and dwarf Zinnia, filling all vacant spaces. Charts VIII and IX could hold three Feverfew, fall-sown, also June-sown. Chart IX could contain one Anchusa plant in the centre. Bear in mind the great value of Larkspur, Feverfew, or Anthemis well distributed over most of the beds. In the large beds especially there may be need of an increase in the number of annuals called for, in order that any vacant spaces may be filled. Cut back Delphiniums, Phloxes, and Shasta Daisy to bring later bloom and prevent the annuals from going to seed for the same reason. For an eflFective summer planting of annuals in a wall bed sim- ilar to the one in Chart II have, instead of scallops, a line of blue Ageratum at the edge. Behind, a line of white and pink compact Petunia. Further back, three closely set lines of garnet and pink Globe Amaranth. At the rear some early Cosmos. Mingled with these annuals may be planted lines or groups of various periods of perennials. Another attractive finish to the front of a bed is made by a line of annual Dianthus at the edge, with two close-set rows of white and pink Vinca behind. In the chart lists where the number of plants required is not indicated the gardener may provide enough to fill the spaces. 138 INDEX INDEX Achillea, "The Pearl," 27, 49, 51 Achillea tomentosa, 22 Aconitum. See Monkshood. Ageratum, 16, 17, 23, 25, 35, 73, 92, 114, 122, 124, 128, 136, 138 Agrostemma, 16, 27, 49, 51, 124, 132 Akebia quintata, 93 Alternation of periods, 1, 12 Alyssum, Sweet. See Sweet Alyssmn Anchusa, 7, 20, 27, 48, 52, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 Anemone Japonica, 26, 50, 52, 122, 126, 137 Annuals, classified, 29-38 as edgings, 21, 138 fall-sown and spring-sown, 7, 8, 9, 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 37 Annuals, frame space not necessary for certain, 33 Annuals, garden without, 3 in perennial bed, 4 transplanting, 40, 41, 42, 43, 112 Annuals, not easily transplanted, 33, 35 Annuals, soil for, 114 start under glass, 35, 42 " tender, 35, 42 wintering hardy, 44, 45 Anthemis, 8, 29, 40, 49, 52, 115, 122, 138 Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon Aquilegia. See Columbine Arabis, 47, 53, 97 Arbor Vitas, 112 Armeria, 22 Aster, China, annual, 35, 38, 74 perennial, 7, 28, 50, 53, 122, 124, 137 Aster, large-flowering. See Chrys- anthemum, h. p. Aster, New England. See perennial Aster Aster, NoviK Angliae. See perennial Aster Azalea, 114 Bachelor's-button. See Ranuncu- lus Balloon Flower. See Platycodon Balsam, 35, 38, 74 Bed space, 13, 14, 15, 20, 21, 119, 138 Beds, narrow, 24 " open, 13, 16, 19 " roimd, 15, 16, 17 square, 15, 16 " wall, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 97, 138 Begonia, 8, 17, 23, 35, 75, 98, 114 Bellflower, Japanese. See Platyco^ don BeUis perennis. See English Daisy Blanket-flower. See GaUlardia Bleeding Heart, 47, 97 Blood, dry, 106 Bloom, winter, in flower-bowl, 106 " periods of, 1, 2, 46 " well-balanced, 2, 12 Bluebells. See Mertensia Bluets, 15, 16, 29, 40, 41, 48, 77, 97, 130, 132, 134 Boxwood, 114 Brachycome, 24, 75, 114 Bulbs, 91, 114 Butterfly Flower. See Schizanthus Calendula, 10, 11, 17, 32, 75, 122, 136 California Poppy. See Eschscholt- [141] INDEX CaUiopsis, 10, 11, 17, 23, 32, 76, 98, 122, 124, 136 Callistephus Chinensis. See China Aster Camomile, double. See Feverfew Campanula calycanthema, 53, 76 " Carpatica, 22 " medium, 8, 16, 20, 25, 28, 29, 31, 39, 42, 44, 48, 53, 76, 115, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 134, 135, 137, 138 Campanula persicifolia, 27, 48, 54, 124, 130, 134 Campion, Rose. See Agrostemma Candytuft, annual, 9, 24, 32, 38, 49, 76, 124, 132 Candytuft, perennial, 47, 54, 97 Canna, 20, 50, 54, 91 Canterbury Bell. See Campanula medium Catchfly. See Silene Celosia plumosa, 35, 78 " spicata, 36, 78 Centaurea, Cyanus. See Bluets " moschata, 77 Chrysanthemum, h. p., 16, 25, 36, 50, 54, 98, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 135, 137 Chrysanthemum, Burridgeanum. See Painted Daisy Chrysanthemum coccineum. See Pyrethrum, hybrid Chrysanthemum coronarium. See Painted Daisy Chrysanthemum, frutescens, 78 " maximum. See Shasta Daisy Chrysanthemxun ullginosum. See Pyrethrum uliginosum City yard, 92 Clarkia, 36, 78 Cleome, 9, 20, 35, 38, 78 Climip, number small plants to a, 6, 21, 51 Cockscomb. See Celosia Color, 99 " in mass, 99 ' standard, 100 Columbine, 7, 26, 48, 55, 97 Coneflower. See Rudbeckia pur- purea Conoclinum ccelestinum. See Eupa- toriiun ccelestinum Coreopsis, annual. See Calliopsis " lanceolata, 27, 49, 56, 124 Corn Flower. See Bluets Cosmos, early, 15, 19, 21, 33, 79, 120, 124, 132 Coiu-t, outer, 98 Daffodils, 92, 96 Dahlia, 21, 50, 56, 91, 122, 137 Daisy, English, 16, 30, 31, 38, 41, 47, 79, 96, 126, 128 Daisy, Giant. See Pyrethrum uligi- nosimi Daisy, Michaelmas. See Aster, per- ennial Daisy, Painted, 10, 11, 35, 77 " Paris. See Chrysanthemum frutescens Daisy, Shasta. See Shasta Daisy Delphinium, 7, 16, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27. 49, 56, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 Delphinium Chinense, 27, 56, 120, 122, 124, 126, 132, 137 Dianthus barbatus. See Sweet Wil- liam Dianthus Chinensis, 23, 30, 41, 42, 79, 122, 130, 136, 138 Dictamnus. See Gas Plant Digitalis. See Foxglove Doronicum, 47, 97 Dusty Miller. See Agrostemma Echinops, 50, 57, 124, 137 Enrichment of soil, 44 Eryngiimi, 50, 57 Eschscholtzia, 10, 32, 80, 122 ' Eupatorium ccelestinum, 28, 50, 58, 122, 124, 137 Euphorbia. See Snow-on-the-Moun- tain Evening Primrose. See (Enothera [142] INDEX Fall garden, spring and, 98 False Dragonhead. See Physoste- gia Feverfew, 8, 29, 30, 31, 40, 49, 58, 80, 115, 120, 122, 126, 130, 138 Fleur-de-lis. See Iris Floss Flower. See Ageratum Forget-me-not, 22, 29, 30, 31, 40, 41, 47, 58, 80, 96, Foxglove, 7, 21, 27, 49, 59, 120, 130, 132, 137 Frames, 7, 8, 32, 33, 35, 45 Fraxinella. See Gas Plant Fuchsia, 80, 111 Gaillardia, annual, 10, 11, 33, 81 " perennial, 7, 27, 49, 59 Garden Heliotrope. See Valerian Gas Plant, 7, 28, 48, 59, 120, 124, 126, 130, 132 General Hints, 112 Geranium, 132, 136 Gladioli, 36, 49, 50, 91, 98, 106, 137 Globe Amaranth, 33, 81, 138 Globe Thistle. See Echinops Godetia, 36, 81 Gomphrena. See Globe Amaranth Gypsophila paniculata, 27, 50, 60 Heartsease. See Pansy Helenium, 27, 50, 60, 122 Helianthus. See Sunflower Heliotrope, 8, 16, 17, 25, 35, 81, 111, 122, 124, 128, 130, 134 Heliotrope, Garden. See Valerian Hemerocallis. See Lily, lemon Hesperis. See Rocket, Sweet Hollyhock, 7, 21, 27, 49, 60, 114, 120, 122, 124, 137 Hyacinth, 47 Iberis sempervirens. See Candy- tuft, h. p. Iberis umbellata. See Candytuft, h. a. Impatiens, balsaminea. See Balsam " Sultani pink, 25, 35, 82, 114, 132 Iris Germanica, 28, 39, 46, 49, 61, 97, 122, 124, 130, 132, 137 Iris, Japanese, 28, 61, 124, 132, 137 LadySlipper. See Balsam Lady's Eardrop. See Fuchsia Lantana, 82, 114 Larkspur, 8, 20, 25, 29, 31, 36, 41, 49, 82, 98, 113, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 134, 135, 138 Larkspur, perennial. See Delphin- ium Laurel, 114 Lavatera, 10, 33, 38, 83 Liatris, 61 Lilac, 110 Lilimn, auratum, 61 candidum, 20, 25, 26, 39, 49, 62, 128, 135 Lilium speciosum, 62 Lily, Annunciation. See L. candi- dum Lily, Gold-banded. See Auratum " Japanese. See Auratum " Lemon, 28, 48, 60 " Madonna. See L. candidum Lines, plants in, 1, 2, 12 Lobelia, 35, 83, 114 Lupin, annual, 10, 33, 38, 49, 83, 96 perennial, 7, 15, 21, 25, 26, 27, 40, 48, 62, 97, 111, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 135, 137 Lupins vs. Gas Plants, 111 Lychnis, Chalcedonica, 27, 49, 63 " coronaria. See Agrostemma Madwort. See Sweet Alyssum Mallow. See Lavatera Maltese Cross. See Lychnis Chal- cedonica Marguerite, white. See Chrysan- themum frutescens Marguerite, yellow. See Anthemis Marigold, African, 15, 33, 84, 122 " Pot. See Calendula Markers, permanent. 111 Matricaria. See Feverfew Meadow Sage. See Salvia pratensb [ 143 INDEX Mertensia, 47, 63, 97 Michaelmas Daisy. See Aster, h. p. Mistflower. See Eupatorium coe- lestinum Monkshood, 21, 26, 50, 64, 98, 120, 122, 124, 126, 137 Mullein Pink. See Agrostemma My Garden, 94 Myosotis. See Forget-me-not Nasturtium, 9, 11, 33, 84 Nicotiana, 33, 84, 94, 120 Nursery, sowing in the, 5, 7, 8, 10, 31, 32, 35 Obedience. See Physostegia (Enothera, 7, 27, 48, 64, 122, 124 Pansy, 11, 16, 17, 18, 23, 24, 25, 30, 41, 47, 84, 92, 113, 120, 122, 124, 128, 130, 132, 134, 135, 136 Peach-bells. See Campanula persi- cifolia Peony, 7, 21, 28, 39, 48, 65, 101, 109, 132 Perennials, classified, 26-28 " as edging, annuals vs., 21 long-lived, 26-28 " only, bed of, 4 " precaution in beds, 110 " seeds not obtainable, 27 " short-lived, 23, 27 " sowing of, 5, 26, 28 " wintering, 44 Periods of bloom, 1, 2, 46 " fewer in north, 47 Petunia, 16, 17, 23, 25, 33, 85, 92, 98, 115, 122, 126, 128, 132, 134, 135, 136, 137 Phlox, divaricata, 47, 65, 97 " Drummondi, 85 " Miss Lingard, 28, 49, 65, 132 " paniculata, 7, 20, 28, 50, 66, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 Phlox subulata, 47, 96 Physostegia, 66 Pmks, Clove, 22 Planting, close, 23, 119 Plants, by purchase, 6 " in lines, 12 " " clumps, number of. See Clump Platycodon, 7, 26, 49, 66, 124, 130 Plumbago, 22 Poppy, California. SeeEschscholtzia Poppy, Oriental, 7, 20, 21, 26, 39, 48, 67, 97, 122, 124, 132, 137 Poppy, Shirley, 9, 29, 30, 38, 41, 86, 101 Portulaca, 11, 33, 86 Primrose, evening. See (Enothera spring, 47, 67, 96 Privet, 112 Pm'chase, plants by, 6 Pyrethrum, hybrid, 7, 26, 48, 67, 97, 120, 124, 126, 130, 132, 137 Pyrethrum uliginosimi, 50, 68 Ranunculus acris, 48, 68 Rhododendron, 114 Rock Cress. See Arabis Rocket, Sweet, 27, 48, 68, 124 Rose Campion. See Agrostemma Rose Garden, 104 Rudbeckia purpurea, 27, 50, 68, 132, 137 Ride in gardening, first, 108 Sage, annual. See Salvia farinacea " Meadow. See Salvias " Pitcher's. See Salvia azurea Salpiglossis, 16, 25, 35, 38, 87, 120, 134. 135 Salvia, azurea, 7, 26, 50, 69, 124, 132 " farinacea, 33, 87 " pratensis, 26, 48, 69 Santolina, 22, 69 Sanvitalia, 24, 87, 114, 122, 136 Scabiosa, 16, 18, 35, 36, 87, 120, 130, 132, 134 Scalloped edge, 23, 123, 136 Schizanthus, 36, 88, 114 Sea Bugloss. See Anchusa Sea Holly. See Eryngium Sedum spectabile, 7, 28, 50, 70, 132 Self-sown plants, 10, 29, 41 [144] INDEX Shasta Daisy, 26,27, 49,'70, 122, 124 126, 132, 137 Silene armeria, 16, 29, 38, 40, 41, 48 88, 97, 115, 120, 130, 132, 134 ' Slug-shot, 106 Snapdragon, 8, 16, 18, 25, 30, 31, 41 88, 98, 130, 132, 134, 135 Sneezeweed. See Helenium Sneezewort, double. See Achillea Snow-on-the-Mountain, 89, 114 Soil, 113, 114; enrichment of, 44 Soot, Scotch, 106 Space between plants, 20, 21, 138 Speedwell. See Veronica Spider Flower. See Cleome Spring garden, 46, 47, 95 Spring and fall garden, 98 Staking, 43, 109, 119 Standard, plants. 111 Roses, 105 Starwort. See Aster Statice, 7, 27, 50, 70 Sunflower, 19, 21, 89, 122 Sweet Alyssum, 10, 11, 17, 20, 23, 24, 30, 32, 49, 73, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 136 Sweet William, 16, 18, 25, 27, 48, 71, 120, 122, 124, 126, 130, 135, 137 Tagetes, erecta. See Marigold signata pumila, 33, 89, 122 Thistle, Globe. See Echinops Tickseed. See Coreopsis Tobacco Plant. See Nicotiana Torcma, 35, 89, 92, 114 Touch-me-not. See Impatiens Sul- tani Transplanting, 9, 40, 41, 43 Trees in gardens, 102 Tulip, early, 24, 46, 47, 91, 135 Tulip, late, 15, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 25, 46. 47, 91, 120, 124, 126, 128, 130, 132, 134, 135, 137 Valerian officinalis, 27, 48, 71, 97. 124 Verbena, 16, 17, 23, 35, 90, 98, 114, 132, 136 Veronica, 28, 50, 71 Vinca, 35, 90, 114, 130, 138 Viola cornuta, 22, 29, 72, 92, 97 Vitis heterophylla, 93 Wall beds, 13, 18, 20, 21, 97 What, when, where, 2, 3 Winter bloom in flower-bowl, 106 Wintering hardy annuals, 44, 45 Wintering perennials and annuals, 44 Wistaria, 92, 111, 113 Zinnia, 15, 18, 20, 25, 33, 90, 115, 122, 124, 126, 130, 132, 134, 135, 137, 138 [145] / / LIBRARY OF CONGRESS DDDmn31bT m¥V4 ,t^ilfJ,l!,«|i;^i$yK';