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Entered according to act of Congress, in the year eighteen 
 hundred and fifty-three, by 
 
 T.W STRONG, 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States 
 for the Southern District of New-York. 
 
 
Think you " there can be no kernel in this light 
 nut," crack it — my good Public, and you may find 
 the meat to your liking, if not, I can promise you 
 beforehand, in all confidence, that you will find no- 
 thing in it to offend you. If it should not amuse 
 nor instruct, it will not harm you. 
 
 F, SAUNDERS. 
 
 New-York, March, 1853. 
 
dl U t IMI t 
 
 General View of New- York, . - - - 9 
 
 Historical Sketches, ------ 16 
 
 Our Ancestors, -------33 
 
 Historic Localities, ------ 47 
 
 Personal Reminiscences, - - - - - 80 
 
 Modern Social Aspects, - - - - - 94 
 
 Public Edifices, - - - - - - - 105 
 
 Brooklyn, -------- 132 
 
 The Hudson, ------- 141 
 
 Appendix, -------- 144 
 
illustrations. 
 
 New fcRK FROM Weehawken, - - Frontispiece. 
 The Crystal Palace, New York, - - Vignette. 
 
 New Amsterdam in 1656, 9 
 
 Shipping and Docks at New York, - - - 13 
 Broadway, Corner of Fulton Street, - - 25 
 
 Interior of Trinity Church, - - - - 37 
 Life at the Five Points, - - - - - 49 
 The Broadway Hotels, - - - - - 61 
 GrRACE Church, Broadway, - - - - - 73 
 Stuyvesant Pear Tree, - - - - - 78 
 Interior of Metropolitan Hall, - - - - 85 
 Common Council Chamber, City Hall, - - 97 
 
 The Fifth Avenue, 109 
 
 Police Court, the Tombs. - - - - - 121 
 
 The Battery, 131 
 
 Centre Street, Harlem Railroad, - - - 133 
 
THE City of New York is justly regarded as the me- 
 tropolis of the New World. It is the grand porch 
 of entrance to the Republic of Freedom. Its geographical 
 position constitutes it the great focal mart of American 
 commerce — the ceatral point from which diverge its 
 several avenues of mercantile and maritime enterprise. — 
 On this account, this city stands pre-eminent among 
 the capitals of the New "World. Its historic records 
 form no unimportant part of the story of our country's 
 eventful annals. It has been the theatre of some of the 
 most stirring scenes in the great drama of our struggle 
 for national liberty in the past, and it now presents to 
 the world, the sublime spectacle of the triumphant suc- 
 cess which has resulted from the cultivation of the arts 
 
10 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 of life, under the beneficent sway of Free Institutions. 
 A little more than two centuries ago, this island of Man- 
 nahata* had its birth-day of civihzation, in a few rude 
 huts, and a fort situated where now the B owling G-reen 
 stands ; and, in this comparatively brief interval in the 
 lifetime of a nation, it has bounded from the infant Dorp 
 or village, into a noble city of palaces with its half mil- 
 lion of inhabitants. It is now the great work-shop for 
 the Western world — the busy hive of industry, with its 
 thousands of artisans, mechanics and merchants, sending 
 out to all sections of its wide-spread domain, the magic 
 power of machinery for all departments of handicraft, 
 and argosies of magnificent vessels for garnering in the 
 wealth of foreign climes. 
 
 With such brilliant achievements already attained, 
 where to limit its onward progress, may well baffle the 
 " calculations " of even the shrewdest Yankee. In a few 
 years hence, the city of New York will extend itself to 
 the margin of the Harlem river, and number its inhabit- 
 ants probably over one million. — At the present time, 
 its population is equal to that of the whole middle 
 country seventy years ago, and the United States now 
 comprises seven times more than it did at that period. — • 
 In sixty years or less, it may be safely estimated, the 
 mighty mass of human beings that will congregate within 
 its limits, will amount to two milHons. 
 f Two hundred and thirty years ago, it is affirmed, the 
 i — — . — - 
 
 * Ite earliest recorded name— vide Purchases Pilgrims, 
 
GENERAL VIE VV. 1 1 
 
 entire city of New York was purchased for what was 
 equivalent to the nominal sum of twenty-four dollars ; — 
 now the total assessed value of the property of the city 
 alone, in 1852, amounted to over three hundred and 
 twenty millions of dollars. If such vast accessions of 
 wealth mark the past, with its present opulent resources, 
 who shall estimate its future possessions and affluent 
 grandeur. 
 
 From a narrow nook of land, with its fort and a few 
 wooden huts, it has become the most imposing and 
 populous capital on the Western Continent, occupying 
 nearly the entire island, from the Battery to the Harlem 
 river, about 14 miles in extent, or an area of nearly 
 twenty-three square miles. During the year 1850, up- 
 wards of 3000 new dwellings were erected, including 
 some of the splendid mansions that now so profusely de- 
 corate the upper part of the metropolis. During the 
 same period no less than 212,796 emigrants arrived at 
 the port of New York from various parts of Europe — a 
 population, of itself, enough to colonize half a dozen re- 
 spectable townships. 
 
 It is a curious fact that New York city, with 520,000 
 inhabitants in 1850, had but 37,000 houses for them to 
 live in and do business. While Philadelphia, with 
 409,000 inhabitants, had 67,000 houses. The number 
 of buildings erected duiing the past year is estimated at 
 about 4,000, and the ratio is on the increase at the pre- 
 sent time, while the edifices are much superior. 
 
 Ffty years ago steamboats were unknown— now there 
 
12 NEW YORK /^ A NUT- SHELL. 
 
 are 3,000 afloat on American waters alone, and it was the 
 Hudson that witnessed the first experiments of Fulton. — 
 In 1809, there was not a single railroad in the world — 
 now there are upwards of 10,000 miles in the United 
 States, independent of the projected railroad to the 
 Pacific. Half a century ago it took some weeks to con- 
 vey news from New York to New Orleans — now it re- 
 quires about as many seconds. Fifty years ago the most 
 rapid printing press was worked by hand-power — now 
 steam prints 20,000 papers an hour on a single press^ 
 
 While the City of New York has been extending 
 its area of wealth and population at home, and its com- 
 mercial interests abroad, it has also established institu- 
 tions of learning to educate the people, that they may 
 advance in virtue, morals, and rehgion, as well as in 
 wealth and power. New York may point with con- 
 fidence to her free public schools and other institutions 
 of learning, for evidence of her appreciation of the 
 benefits of universal education. There are 213 public 
 schools in the city, at which 116,000 children are in- 
 structed. There is also a Free Academy, in which the 
 essentials of a collegiate course are taught. The building 
 is of sufficient capacity to accommodate 750 students, 
 and is under the supervision of 14 professors. In ad- 
 dition to which there are the Astor, Historical Society, 
 the New York Society Libraries, and the Mercantile 
 Library Association, besides other minor institutions of 
 a kindred nature — all exponents of the taste and in- 
 tellectual culture of the people. 
 
14 GENERAL VIEW 
 
 Then again, as to its opulence and splendor, take the 
 following from a contemporary : — 
 
 / "So great has been the rage for building, that there 
 has been about 15,000,000 dollars worth of land bought 
 for that purpose during the past year. In the northern 
 part of the city, on the Third, Fourth, and Fifth Avenues, 
 from three to five miles from the City Hall, magnificent 
 palaces are being erected in all directions. Thousands 
 of retired and active merchants and business men have 
 their residences in this part of the city, and they five in 
 a most princely style. They seem to float in an ocean 
 of wealth, and their number is legion. It is not un- 
 common for a gentleman to spend from 100 to 200,000 dol- 
 lars for a house, and from 30 to 50,000 dollars to furnish it. 
 An establishment of this kind would require at least 
 50,000 dollars a year to support it. Extravagant as this 
 fashion may appear, there are thousands who have the 
 means and the disposition to follow it. For 10 miles, or 
 more, there seems to be nothing but a compact mass 
 of buildings, and improvements constantly going on. 
 At this rate, the entire island of Manhattan will be 
 covered with a dense mass of population within a very 
 few years. 
 
 " New York does business on a large scale. What- 
 ever project the corporation, or any of its capitalists em- 
 bark in, is sure to cost more money, and create more 
 excitement, and command a greater amount of admira- 
 tion from the people, than can any where be obtained 
 outside of New York. In no one thing is this idea more 
 
NEW YORK IN A NUT- SHELL. 15 
 
 apparent than in the matter of hotels. But a few years 
 ago the Astor House was built, and was considered the 
 ninth wonder of the world ; then, a few years later, the 
 Irving House, and by many considered its rival. The 
 rent of the Irving is stated at 48,000 dollars a year."^^/ 
 
 There is also the Metropolitan hotel, at the corner of 
 Broadway and Prince street, one of the most magnificent 
 structures of the kind in the world. 
 
 All its appointments are upon the most costly scale. — 
 It is capable of accommodating from 600 to 1,000 guests. 
 The expense of this superb establishment is estimated at 
 Httle short of a million of dollars. 
 
 There is also in the immediate neighborhood two other 
 monster buildings, one called the Prescott House, and the 
 other the St. Nicholas hotel, on the opposite side of Broad- 
 way, with a front of white marble, and six stories high. 
 
 There are also about 8,000 other hotels and drinking 
 saloons of less pretensions in the City of New York, 
 which it probably costs at least 30,000,000 dollars a year 
 to maintain. J 
 
 Turn we now to the several departments of handicraft, 
 profession and trade, we find the estimates present a 
 scale of magnitude no less imposing. In the city of 
 New York, independently of its suburbs — there are — 
 Bakers, 547 — Banks and bankers, 110 — Booksellers and 
 publishers, 208 — Boot and shoe-makers, 1491 — Brokers, 
 176— Butchers, 686— Architects, 200— Carpenters, 310— 
 Dressmakers, 378 — Druggists, 390 — Commission and Re- 
 tail merchants, 918— Engravers, 206— Grocers, 2808— 
 
GENERAL VIEW. 
 
 Hardware and Cutlery, 307 — Lawyers, 1458— Shipping 
 and General merchants, 1218— MilUnery, 216— News- 
 papers, 230— Painters, 280— Eestaurants, 362— Phy- 
 sicians, &c., 928— Porter Houses, 1890— Printers, 183— 
 Produce dealers, 482 — Segar dealers, 378 — Tailors and 
 Clothiers, 1116. In addition to the above there are 
 numerous other divisions and sub-divisions, independent 
 of the thousands who contribute their aid in these several 
 departments of active life. 
 
 May we not then be excused our exulting boast of this 
 city's rising greatness ? Its destiny is a glorious one, and 
 its onward progress is irresistible. It must become to 
 the New World what London is to the Old. The Em- 
 pire City may be said to have obtained a high and com- 
 manding position in every essential element which con- 
 stitutes greatness. It is not only the Capital of the 
 state, but it is literally the Capital of North America. — 
 When the Atlantic and Pacific States of this great 
 nation shall be connected by railroad, and steam 
 communication, linking the shores of Asia and the 
 Islands of the Indies with it. New York will become the 
 grand central depot from which commerce will radiate 
 to all parts of the world. 
 
 It needs but an increasing moral power to render it 
 the great conservator of the blessings of freedom, intel- 
 ligence and religion — all that is required to confer uni- 
 versal happiness upon the race. Who can doubt it ? In 
 the phrase of good old Isaac Walton, we would say to 
 him, " If thou be that sour-complexioned man, I do here 
 disallow thee to be a competent judge." 
 
NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 17 
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 
 
 Flowed thy clear waters, since the primal day, 
 Unknown, save to the red barbarian throngs, 
 
 Brute hunters of the brutes, now passed away — 
 Heroes of fiction's tales, of dreamers' scngs. 
 
 On the 3d of September, 1609, Hendrick Hudson first 
 entered the Bay of New York. Here commence the 
 acknowledged chronicles of European civilization on these 
 shores of the newly discovered continent, over which, 
 till then, had the wild Indian held undisputed sway. — 
 According to Scandinavian records, it is affirmed, the 
 Norsemen visited our shores even prior to the dis- 
 covery of the continent by the famed Genoese. 
 
 Among those supposed early navigators, was Prince 
 Madoc, and Verrazani, who, in the year 1514, is believed 
 to have anchored in these waters, and explored the coast 
 of what was then known as part of ancient Yinland. By 
 some, however, these claims to prior discovery are re- 
 garded as somewhat apocryphal ; leaving the question 
 of priority to be settled by those more versed in anti- 
 quarian lore, we shall proceed to take a cursory glance 
 at the leading events which hive been handed down to 
 us by documentary testimony, and which serte to illus- 
 trate that progressive advancement of the civilized, over 
 the savage forms of life, of which this memorable island 
 has been the theatre. 
 
 The manner in which civilized men can develope the 
 resources of a wild country, is contained in its physical 
 character : and the results which have been affected, are 
 analogous to their causes. How changed is the scene 
 
18 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 from thaton which Hudson gazed ! The earth glows 
 with the colors of civilization ; the banks of the stream 
 are enamelled with the richest grasses ; woodlands and 
 cultivated fields are harmoniously blended ; the birds of 
 spring find their delight in orchards and trim gardens, 
 variegated with choicest plants from every temperate 
 zone ; while the brilliant flowers of the tropics bloom 
 from the windows of the green-house and the saloon. — 
 The yeoman living like a good neighbor near the field he 
 cultivates, glories in the fruitfulness of the valleys, and 
 counts, with honest exultation the flocks and herds that 
 browse in safety on the hills. The thorn has given way 
 to the rose-bush ; the cultivated vine clambers over rocks 
 where the brood of serpents used to nestle ; while in- 
 dustry smiles at the changes she has wrought, and inhales 
 the bland air which now has health on its wings. And 
 man is still in harmony with nature, which he has sub- 
 dued, cultivated and adorned. For him the rivers, that 
 flow to remotest climes, mingle their waters ; for him 
 the lakes give new outlets to the ocean ; for him the 
 arch spans the flood ; and science spreads iron pathways 
 to the recent wilderness ; for him the hills yield up the 
 shining marble and the enduring granite ; for him the 
 forests of the interior come down in immense rafts ; for 
 him the marts of the city gather the produce of every 
 clime ; and libraries collect the works of genius of every 
 language and every age.* When the yacht " Half- 
 Moon," first anchored in the harbor of New York, the 
 * Bancroft 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 19 
 
 island of Manhattan was a dense forest, rocky and un- 
 equal in its surface, and the abode of savages. What 
 mighty mutations have passed over it since then ! Let 
 us glance at those progressive changes in the following 
 brief records which we find chronicled by writers of 
 the olden time. 
 
 Whether Hudson actually landed in New-York Island 
 is a little dubious, since he does not expressly mention it 
 in his journal ; yet he speaks of the reserve and gruSness 
 of its inhabitants, — contrasting their unfriendliness, so 
 unlike other natives, who were every where warm- 
 hearted and generous. The Wappingi, on the western 
 shore of the harbor, were daily visitors and dealers, 
 bringing with them for trade and barter, furs, oysters, 
 corn, beans, &c. Among these Indians, probably at 
 Communipaw, Hudson landed. 
 
 But, although Hudson has not liimself mentioned any 
 thing special of his landing in the harbor of New-York, 
 we possess a tradition of the event, as related by Hecke- 
 welder, the Indian historian. He described the natives 
 as greatly perplexed and terrified when they beheld the 
 approach of the strange object — the ship in the offing. 
 They deemed it a visit from the Manitou, coming in his 
 big canoe, and began to prepare an entertainment for 
 his reception. " By-and-bye, the chief, in red clothes and 
 a glitter of metal, with others, came ashore in a smaller 
 canoe ; mutual salutations and signs of friendship were 
 exchanged ; and after a while, strong drink was offered, 
 which made all gay and happy. In time, as their mu- 
 
20 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 tual acquaintance progressed, the white shins told them 
 they would stay with them, if they allowed them as 
 much land for cultivation as the hide of a bullock, spread 
 before them, could cover or encompass. The request was 
 gratified ; and the pale men, thereupon, beginning at a 
 starting point on the hide, with a knife, cut it up into 
 one long extended narrow strip or thong, sufficient to 
 encompass a large place ! Their cunning equally sur- 
 prised and amused the confiding and simple Indians, who 
 willingly allowed the success of their artifice, and back- 
 ed it with a cordial welcome." Such was the origin of 
 the site of Kew-York, on the place called ManJiattan, 
 (i. e. Manahachtanienks.) a revelling name, importing 
 " the place where they all got drunk !" and a name then 
 hestowed by the Indians as commemorate of that first 
 great meeting. The natives then there, descendants of 
 the once warlike Minsi tribe of the Lenni Lenape, were 
 the same class of people called by Heckewelder the Del- 
 awares or Munseys. The Indians, in their address after- 
 wards, to Gov. Keift, said, "when you first arrived on 
 our shores you were sometimes in want of food. Then 
 we gave you our beans and corn, and let you eat our 
 oysters and fish. We treated you as we should our- 
 selves, and gave you our daughters as wives." 
 
 The settlers established themselves in houses built of 
 the bark of trees clustering around the south point of 
 this island. A rude fort was staked out by Kyrn Frede- 
 rycke ; and having thus provided for the more pressing 
 wants of shelter and defence, a stone house was con- 
 
^ HISTORICAL SKETCH. 21 
 
 structed for a counting-house for the Company, the roof, 
 for %Tant of other materials, being made of reeds. 
 
 Thirty private dweUings were built by the settlers ar- 
 riving cut in the vessels above alluded to, each family 
 having its separate habitation. Francis Molemacher erect- 
 ed a mill for horse-power, the second floor of which was 
 used for a place of public worship. 
 
 The first concern of the discoverer was to proceed up 
 the " Groot Rivier" — the great North River. After Hud- 
 son had occupied himself, in exploring and returning, 
 he speedily sailed for Europe ; and his favorable reports 
 gave rise to an expedition of two ships in 1614, under 
 Captains Adrian Block and Hendrick Christiaanse. It 
 was under their auspices that the first actual settlement 
 was begun upon the site of the present New- York, con- 
 sisting in the first year of four houses, and in the next 
 year of a redoubt on the site of the Macomb houses, 
 now on Broadway. To this small village they gave the 
 name of New Amsterdam. The settlement was of a 
 commercial and military character, having for its object 
 the traffic in the fur trade. 
 
 At the time Holland projected this scheme of commer- 
 cial settlement, she possessed 20,000 vessels and 100,000 
 mariners. The City of Amsterdam was at the head of 
 the enterprise. Its merchants projected the scheme of 
 sending out Hudson (an Englishman) to discover a 
 northern passage to the East Indies. In this attempt he 
 failed ; but, as some reparation for the consequent disap- 
 pointment to his employers— the Directors of the East 
 
22 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 Indk Company, he hit upon the expedient of sailing 
 southward. 
 
 In March, 1614, the States Qeneral gave out their 
 grant, for the purpose of the fur trade^ of this new coun- 
 try to " the Amsterdam hcensed trading West India 
 Company," intending New York as a part of their fan- 
 cied West Indies ! Although the Dutch thought httle 
 or nothing of colonization, the English then in Holland, 
 exiles for conscience sake, early desired to form a colony 
 at New York, and actually embarked for that purpose 
 in 1620, but were prevented by the fraud of the Dutch 
 captain, as it was alleged, and were actually landed at 
 Plymouth; forming there the memorable "Pilgrims of 
 Plymouth" — the forefathers of New England. 
 
 In the year 1623, " the Privileged West India Com- 
 pany," under its new charter of 1621, begans its opera- 
 tions along the Hudson, for the first time, with a direct 
 view to colonization ; while the new colonists were 
 most heartily welcomed by the few previous in- 
 habitants. Before these arrived, they had been two 
 years without supplies, and destitute ; so that some of 
 the Staten Islanders had cut up the sails of their boats 
 for necessary clothing. In comphment to Capt. May, 
 and in memory of his welcome arrival in the bay of 
 Manhattan, they named the bay Port May. At this 
 time they commenced their Fort Amsterdam, on the 
 Battery Point, southward of their former redoubt; and 
 finished it, under Governor Wouter Van T wilier, in 
 1635. 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 23 
 
 It might serve to show the state of the fur trade 
 about this time, to note, that in the first year of Gover- 
 nor Minuit's administration, they collected and exported 
 4,700 beaver and otter skins, valued at 27,125 gilders or 
 11,300 dollars; and that, in ten years afterwards, they 
 shipped in one year 13,513 beavers and 1661 otters. 
 
 The settlement and fort continued to bear the name of 
 Manades, or Nieuw Amsterdam, by the Dutch, down to 
 the time of the surrender by Grovernor Stuyvesant to 
 the English, in 1664. Then for ten years under the rule 
 of Cols. NichoUs and Lovelace, acting for the Duke of 
 York, it was called A^eiu Fork; but in August, 1673, a 
 Dutch fleet, in time of war, recaptured it from the Brit- 
 ish, and while exercising their rule for their High Might- 
 inesses of Holland, to the time of the peace in 1674, they 
 called the place New Orange^ in compliment to the- 
 Prince of Orange, and the fort they called William Hen- 
 drick.* 
 
 The city being restored to the British by the treaty, 
 in October, 1674, the fort then took the name of Fort 
 James. It was built of quadrangular form, having four 
 bastions, two gates, and 42 cannon. The city again bore 
 the name of New York, which it has since retained. 
 ( The city was laid out in streets, some of them crooked 
 enough, in 1656. It then contained, by enumeration, 
 " 120 houses, with extensive garden lots,'' and 1000 in- 
 habitants. In 1677 another estimate of the city was 
 
 » Walson. 
 
24: NEW YORK IN A NUT SHELL. 
 
 made, and ascertained to contain 368 houses. In the 
 year 1674:, an assessment of " the most wealthy inhabi- 
 tants" having been made, it was found that the sum to- 
 tal of 134 estates amounted to £95,000.^/ 
 
 During the military rule of Grovernor Colve, who held 
 the city for one year under the above-mentioned cap- 
 ture, for the States of Holland, every thing partook of a 
 military character, and the laws still in preservation at 
 Albany show the energy of a rigorous discipline. Then 
 the Dutch mayor, at the head of the city militia, held his 
 daily parades before the City Hall (Stadt Huys,) then at 
 Coenties Slip ; and every evening at sunset, he received 
 from the principal guard of the fort, called the hoofd 
 wagt, the keys of the city, and thereupon proceeded, with 
 a guard of six, to lock the city gates ; then to place a 
 Burger-wagt — a citizen guard, as night-watches at as- 
 signed places. The same mayors also went the rounds 
 at sunrise to open the gates, and to restore the keys to 
 the ofl&cer of the fort. 
 
 During the war between England and Holland in 1664, 
 the province was taken possession of by the Enghsh. 
 Peter Stuyvesant was then its governor. It then first 
 received the name it has ever since retained, and which 
 was conferred upon it by Charles II., in honor of the 
 Duke of York, to whom it was transferred. Grovernor 
 NichoUs granted a State Charter to the city. The fol- 
 lowing year he resigned his office to a successor. Col. 
 Lovelace, who officiated as governor till 1673, when New 
 York was re-captured by the Dutch — who retained its 
 
'^ 
 
 
 1 
 
 fe Wj 
 
 :•]*" '~^-- 
 
 p 
 
26 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 possession, however, but one year. The next G-overnoi 
 was Major Andros, who seems to have won, for his brief 
 administration, a very equivocal fame. In August, 1683, 
 Col. Dougan succeeded to the Grovernment. One of his 
 first acts was to grant permission to the people to form a 
 Constitutional Assembly, consisting of a Council of ten, 
 and eighteen representatives elected by freeholders, to 
 aid in the administration of public affairs. In this year 
 the ten original counties were organized. In 1685, on the 
 demise of Charles II., the Duke of York ascended the 
 throne, with the title of James II. This bigotted mon- 
 arch signalized himself by forbidding the establishment 
 of a printing-press in the colony. Dongan was far bet- 
 ter than his sovereign, and at length was recalled in con- 
 sequence of his remonstrances against other arbitrary 
 measures he was instructed to carry out with regard to 
 the confederated Indian tribes and the Jesuits. Andros 
 was appointed to supersede him, but his also was but a 
 short reign, for the populace grew disaffected, and in a 
 civil commotion, one Jacob Leisler, a Dutch merchant, 
 was proclaimed leader, and ultimately invested with the 
 reigns of government. He associated with himself, his 
 son-in-law, Milborne ; both parties, however, soon ter- 
 minated their career with ruinous results. During Mil- 
 borne's absence at Albany, a letter from the English min- 
 istry arrived, addressed to " Francis Nicholson, Esq. ; or, 
 in his absence, to such as, for the time being, take care 
 for the preserving of the peace, and administering the 
 laws, in His Majesty's province of New York, in Ameri- 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 27 
 
 ca." This letter empowered the person addressed, to 
 take charge of the government, callrng in the aid of such 
 of the inhabitants as he should think proper, until further 
 orders. Leisler, being by popular election, acting gov- 
 ernor, very properly assumed that this letter was ad- 
 dressed to himself; and, consequently, by advice of the 
 citizens, who constituted a committee of safety, selected 
 a council from each of the counties, except Ulster and 
 Albany, which had not yet submitted to his authority. 
 
 He also summoned a convention of deputies, from those 
 portions of the province over which his influence extend- 
 ed. This convention laid some taxes, and adopted other 
 measures, for the temporary government of the colony ; 
 and thus, for the first time in its existence, was the col- 
 ony of New York under a free government. The strong 
 prejudices, however, which had been awakened by Leis- 
 ler's measures, soon produced in the minds of his adver- 
 saries, a rancor and bitterness, which was, perhaps, never 
 surpassed in the annals of any political controversy. 
 
 This condition of things existed for nearly two years. 
 To the horrors of civil commotion, were added the mise- 
 ries of foreign war and hostile invasion. The French 
 court, being at war with England, had placed over its 
 colonies in Canada, the aged, but enterprising Count de 
 Frontende, the ablest and most formidable governor of 
 the American possessions. 
 
 This wily veteran at once determined to annoy his 
 English neighbors, and accordingly despatched a force 
 against Schenectady, in mid-winter, which, after endu- 
 
28 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 ring extreme hardships, reached that place in the dead of 
 night, and with the utmost barbarity, butchered its sleep- 
 ing inhabitants in cold blood. 
 
 On the arrival of a new governor, Col. Henry Slough- 
 ter, in 1691, Leisler hesitated to deHver the fort to an 
 agent sent to demand its surrender, and desired to con- 
 fer with the principal. This was made by his enemies a 
 pretext for a charge of treason against him. He was ar- 
 rested, tried, and, through the machinations of his ene- 
 mies, unjustly sentenced to death, and executed. 
 
 The struggles of the citizens against the encroachments 
 of the royal governors, form an important feature in the 
 history of New York. Twice, during the administration 
 of Gov. Cornbury, was money embezzled by him which 
 had been appropriated by the provincial assembly to the 
 defence of the frontiers and of the capital. This notable 
 governor was in the habit of disregarding his pecuniary 
 obligations, for which delinquency he was actually im- 
 prisoned. The following is an extract from one of his 
 sapient despatches to his superior in England. 
 
 " I hope I may be pardoned if I declare my opinion to 
 be that all these colonies, which are but twigs belonging 
 to the main tree, (England,) ought to be kept entirely 
 dependent upon, and subservient to England ; and that 
 never can be if they are suffered to go in the notions they 
 have, that as they are Englishmen, so they may set up 
 the same manufactures here as people may do in Eng- 
 land.'' 
 
 But a few months previously to his arrival, in 1702, 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH 29 
 
 the citizens had been inflanried by a more fearful invasion 
 of their rights. Col. Nicholas Bayard and Alderman 
 John Hutchins, for refusing to deliver up addresses which 
 had been prepared by many of the inhabitants for pre- 
 sentation to the king, the parliament, and the new gov- 
 ernor, vsrere tried for high-treason, and sentenced to 
 death ; but they were subsequently released, and their 
 attainders reversed. 
 
 During the period of the British domination, the entire 
 increase of population in New York, amounted to only 
 20,000 — less than its annual increase during some years 
 subsequently. 
 
 The interests of education, and the diffusion of intelli- 
 gence among the masses, had been grossly neglected ; 
 but their importance gradually received attention. A 
 free grammar school had been founded by law in 1702. 
 In 1725, the first newspaper commenced its existence, 
 and, four years after, the city received, as a gift from a 
 society in England, a library of 1642 volumes. In 1732, 
 stage-routes to Boston and Philadelphia were established, 
 and the stages performed once in two weeks. A public 
 classical school was founded by the assembly in 1732. 
 With the advance of general intelligence came a higher 
 appreciation of popular rights, and a determination to up- 
 hold them ; nor was long wanting an opportunity to re- 
 sist the encroachments of arbitrary power.* 
 
 But New York was destined to be convulsed by a 
 
 * Belden. 
 
30 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 more lamentable commotion. For many years occasion- 
 al disturbances had occurred among the negro popula- 
 tion. In 1741, a few fires and a robbery gave rise to a 
 general alarm, which, on slight and contradictory testi- 
 mony as to the existence of a plot among the negroes and 
 others to destroy the city, passed into complete infatua- 
 tion. Numbers were executed or transported ; but hu- 
 manity and good sense finally prevailed, and quiet was 
 restored. 
 
 The trade of New York increased. Her ships were 
 already seen in many foreign ports, and no rival, not 
 even Philadelphia, surpassed her in the extent of her 
 commercial operations. Provisions, linseed-oil, furs, lum- 
 ber, and iron, were the principal exports. From 1749 to 
 1750, two hundred and eighty-six vessels left New York, 
 with cargoes principally of flour and grain. In 1755, 
 nearly thirteen thousand hogsheads of flax seed were 
 shipped to Ireland. 
 
 The relations of the colonies with the mother country 
 were assuming a serious aspect. In 1765, a congress of 
 delegates met at New York, and prepared a declaration 
 of their rights and grievances. The arrival of the stamp- 
 ed paper, so notorious in the colonial annals of America, 
 towards the end of this year, marked the commencement 
 of a series of explosions that were not to terminate until 
 the city and colony of New York, in common with the 
 other colonies, were forever rent from the dominion of 
 G-reat Britain. The non-importation agreements of the 
 merchants of New York and other places, in 1768 and 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH. 31 
 
 the succeeding years, were followed by stringent mea- 
 sures on the part of the English government. War be- 
 came inevitable, and all eyes were soon directed to New 
 York as the point where the enemy would strike a blow 
 at the heart of the country. 
 
 On the 28th of June, 1776, the British army and fleet, 
 which had been driven from the city and harbor of Bos- 
 ton, entered the southern bay of New York. The troops 
 were landed upon Staten Island. On the 22d of August, 
 the British forces crossed the Narrows, and encamped 
 near Brooklyn, where the American army was stationed. 
 The battle of Long Island ensued, in which, owing to 
 unfortunate circumstances, the Americans were entirely 
 defeated. Washington, with consummate skill, crossed 
 the river, the succeeding night, without observation; but 
 the previous disasters, and the subsequent successful land- 
 ing of the British troops at Kip's and Turtle's bays, ren- 
 dered it impossible to save the city.* 
 
 For eight years New York was the head-quarters ot 
 the British troops, and the prison-house of American cap- 
 tives. Public buildings were despoiled, and churches 
 converted into hospitals and prisons. A fire, in 1776, 
 sweeping along both sides of Broadway, destroyed one- 
 eighth of the buildings of New York. 
 
 On the 25th of November, 1783, the forces of Great 
 Britain evacuated the city, and Washington and the gov- 
 ernor of the State made a public and triumphal entry. 
 
 * Belden. 
 
32 NEW YORK JN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 The restoration of peace, and the rise of the new gov- 
 ernment, were the signal for extending the commercial 
 relations of New York. In ten years her population 
 had nearly doubled, and, in the early part of the present 
 century, her claims, as the leading emporium of the con- 
 tinent, were established. 
 
 But misfortune was not entirely removed from the me- 
 tropolis Riot, pestilence, fire, and war, were at hand to 
 disturb her peace, cripple her means, or desolate her 
 borders. In 1788, the community were thrown into con- 
 sternation by an attack made upon the medical profession 
 by an infuriated mob. The phrensy of some of the peo- 
 ple had been excited by an imprudent exposure of a por- 
 tion of a dissected body. After a contest of three or 
 four days, in which several lives were lost, the mob was 
 entirely subdued by the military ; and the occurrence 
 was signalized by the name of "the doctors' riot.'' In 
 1798 and the succeeding years, the city was nearly de- 
 populated in consequence of pestilence. Over three 
 thousand persons, in one year, fell victims to the ravages 
 of the yellow fever. Large fires took place in 1804 and 
 1811. But the interests of the city were more seriously 
 injured by the breaking out of war between the United 
 States and England in 1812. The ravages of pestilence 
 and fire impressed upon the mind the necessity of great- 
 er precaution, and more prompt and vigorous measures 
 in the health and fire departments. And the cessation 
 of war opened again the waters of the world to the com- 
 merce of New York. Soon her sails were unfolded in 
 
HISTORICAL SKETCH 33 
 
 every sea ; and the establishment of her regular Hnes of 
 packets, the first undertaking of the kind in the country, 
 and the introduction of steam-navigation, first used upon 
 our waters, added to her commercial superiority over the 
 other ports of the republic. 
 
 Improvements hitherto had been principally connected 
 with foreign commerce. But an impulse was now to be 
 given to inland trade by the adoption of an extensive 
 system of canal-navigation. Several smaller works were 
 cast into the shade by the completion of the gigantic Erie 
 Canal, in 1825. The union of the Atlantic with the 
 Lakes, was announced by the firing of cannon along the 
 whole line of the canal and of the Hudson, and was cele- 
 brated at New York by a magnificent aquatic procession, 
 which, to indicate more clearly the navigable communi- 
 cation that had been opened, deposited in the ocean a 
 portion of the waters of Lake Erie. 
 
 Municipal history is a narrative of alternate successes 
 and reverses. For many years nothing had occurred to 
 mar the prosperity of the city. Again misfortune came. 
 In 1832, the Asiatic cholera appeared, and four thousand 
 three hundred and sixty fell victims to the disease. This 
 calamity had scarcely passed, when the great fire of 1835 
 destroyed, in one night, more than six hundred buildings, 
 and property to the value of over twenty millions of dol- 
 lars. The city had not recovered from the effects of this 
 disaster, when the commercial revulsions of 1836 and 
 1837 shook public and private credit to their center, and 
 2 
 
U NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 involved many of the most vrealthy houses of New York 
 in hopeless bankruptcy. 
 
 The completion of the Croton Aqueduct in 1842, re- 
 moved the inconvenience, and left an imperishable mon- 
 ument to the glory of New York. 
 
 A temporary check in the progress of the city was 
 sustained by the fire of 1845, which destroyed property 
 to the value of about seven millions of dollars. 
 
 In a year or two later a new and vigorous impulse was 
 given to the commercial enterprise of the metropolis, by 
 the constant influx of gold from California — the results 
 of which are apparent, even to an increased extent, at the 
 present day. 
 
 Such is a brief sketch of the rise and progress of the 
 city that holds the first rank in the Western World, and 
 is but the second, in commercial importance, on the 
 globe. 
 
 * Belden. 
 
OUR ANCESTORS. 
 
 " 'Tis better to be lowly born, 
 And range with humble livers m content. 
 Than to be perk'd up in a glistering grief, 
 And wear a golden sorrow." 
 
 FOREMOST among the many primitive and quaint 
 old- types of a by-gone age, that we have inher- 
 ited from our Dutch forefathers, is the interchange 
 of visits and congratulations on New Year's Day. It 
 was a kindly custom — feuds and bickerings among rela- 
 tives and friends were allayed, and the feelings of love 
 and friendship quickened into hfe, asperities were soft- 
 ened down, and the genial indulgence of the time shed 
 its healing* influence among them. A century and a 
 half witnesses no mitigation of the principle which few 
 are inclined to deprecate, though subject to much serious 
 abuse, since it tends to much that is healthy and joyous 
 in our money-getting and self-sacrificing existence. Nu- 
 merous festival days followed in succession : " Santa 
 Glaus," "The Paas," ''The Pinxter," and others of a 
 different character, but all administering to the charm of 
 social intercourse. Unostentatious in their manners, fru- 
 gal and homely in their habits, our worthy Dutch pro- 
 genitors stood prominently forward, with but little im- 
 pulse in their natures — cultivating the substance in 
 preference to the shadow— and pursuing the "even 
 tenor of their way " by easy stages. The homespun 
 habiliments of the men, with their roomy shoes orna- 
 
36 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 mented by enormous pewter buckles, were fitting com- 
 panions for the close crumpled caps and the infinity of 
 petticoats that adorned the earthy tabernacle of the 
 gentler sex. Their pride consisted more in the domestic 
 virtues, and their plain attire, worn for use rather than 
 for show, seemed, from its very humility and cheapness, 
 to be a formidable barrier against the onslaughts of 
 luxury; but the stagnant pool of society will sometimes 
 be disturbed by the passing breeze of innovation, and 
 the antique ''fast man '' of the Dutch dynasty is carried 
 into the vortex of a quicker civilization, and hurried into 
 a very questionable happiness. The magical power of 
 steam, compassing " the great globe itself,'' and its very 
 agency extorting from humanity a kindred spontaniety, 
 and that still more mysterious missionary teaching and 
 taking the world in its arms — embracing time and dis- 
 tance — were to him unknown. No limner could sketch 
 the portrait of a Dutchman with such life-like effect as 
 Irving. " He was exactly five feet six inches in height, 
 and six feet five inches in circumference. His head was 
 a perfect sphere ; indeed, of such stupendous dimensions 
 was it, that Dame Nature herself would have been puz- 
 zled to construct a neck capable of supporting it; where- 
 fore she wisely declined the attempt, and settled it firmly 
 on the top of his back-bone, just between the shoulders, 
 where it remained as snugly bedded as a ship of war in 
 the Potomac. His body was of an oblong form par- 
 ticularly capacious at bottom. His legs, though exceed- 
 ing short, were sturdy in proportion to tne weignt tney 
 
INTERIOR OP TRINXTV CHL'KCH 
 
38 NEW YORK IN A NUT- SHELL. 
 
 had to sustain, so that, when erect, he had not a little 
 the appearance of a robustious beer-barrel standing on 
 skids. His face, that infaUible index of the mind, pre- 
 sented a vast expanse, perfectly unfurrowed or deformed 
 by any of those lines and angles which disfigure the 
 human countenance with what is termed expression. 
 Two small grey eyes twinkled feebly in the midst, hke 
 two stars of lesser magnitude in a hazy firmament ; and 
 his full-fed cheeks, which seemed to have taken toll 
 of everything that went into his mouth, were curiously 
 mottled, and streaked with dusky red, like a Spitzenberg 
 apple. He daily took his four stated meals, appro- 
 priating exactly an hour to each ; he smoked and 
 doubted eight hours, and he slept the remaining twelve 
 of the four-and-twenty." The weather-cock upon the 
 stadthouse was his all in all, and its contemplation while 
 veering and twisting about among the fleecy clouds, was 
 sufficient study to prepare for rheumatic afflictions, or to 
 ingather the teeming harvest of his well cultivated fields. 
 Sometimes would he, in the narrow streets of New 
 Amsterdam, be seen with his portly frow, surrounded by 
 their numerous progeny of frawliens and embryo burgh- 
 ers, sitting upon the steps of his peaceful home, in the 
 soft eventide, holding converse with his neighbors, re- 
 citing reminiscences of Fatherland, or, amid the curling 
 wreaths of fragrant tabac, would calmly sink into the 
 dreamy repose of quiet happiness. Thus he Uved in the 
 pure serenity of a blameless trust, challenging our admi- 
 ration for his child-like pleasures and his honest and 
 
OUR A NCES TOR S. 39 
 
 sober simple-heartedness. But, alas ! the pleasures we 
 enjoy are fleeting and unsubstantial; the enjoyments 
 of one age become modified by another — the meerschaum 
 is vanquished by the segar — the dudeen of the Celt 
 triumphs over the ashes of the once loved heir-loom. 
 
 Our inimitable historian, Diedrich Knickerhocher^ pre- 
 sents us some charming cabinet pictures of old Dutch 
 times in New York. Take the following for example : — 
 
 " In those happy days a well-regulated family always 
 rose with the dawn, dined at eleven, and went to bed at 
 sun-down. Dinner was invariably a private meal, and 
 the fat old burghers showed incontestible symptoms of 
 disapprobation and uneasiness at being surprised by 
 a visit from a neighbor on such occasions. But, though 
 our worthy ancestors were thus singularly averse to 
 giving dinners, yet they kept up the social bands of 
 mtimacy by occasional banquetings, called tea-parties. 
 
 These fashionable parties were generally confined to 
 the higher classes, or noblesse ; that is to say, such as 
 kept their own cows, and drove their own wagons. 
 The company commonly assembled at three o'clock, and 
 went away about six, unless it was in winter time, when 
 the fashionable hours were a little earlier, that the ladies 
 might get home before dark. The tea-table was crowned 
 with a huge earthen dish, well stored with slices of fat 
 pork, fried brown, cut up into morsels, and swimming 
 in gravy. The company being seated around the genial 
 board, and each furnished with a fork, evinced their dex- 
 terity in lanching at the fattest pieces in this mighty 
 
40 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 dish — in much the same manner as sailors harpoon por- 
 poises at sea, or our Indians spear salmon in the lakes. 
 Sometimes the table was graced with immense apple- 
 pies, or saucers full of preserved peaches and pears; 
 but it was always sure to boast an enormous dish of balls 
 of sweetened dough, fried in hog's fat, and doughnuts, or 
 olykoeks — a delicious kind of cake, at present scarce 
 known in this city, excepting in genuine Dutch families. 
 
 The tea was served out of a majestic delft tea-pot, or- 
 namented with paintings of fat little Dutch shepherds 
 and shepherdesses tending pigs — with boats saihng in 
 the air, and houses built in the clouds, and sundry other 
 ingenious Dutch fantasies. The beaux distinguished 
 themselves by their adroitness in replenishing this pot 
 from a huge copper tea-kettle, which would have made 
 the pigmy maccaronies of these degenerate days sweat 
 to look at. To sweeten the beverage, a lump of sugar 
 was laid beside each cup — and the company alternately 
 nibbled and sipped with great decorum, until an im- 
 provement was introduced by a shrewd and economic 
 old lady, which was to suspend a large lump directly 
 over the tea-table by a string from the ceiling, so that it 
 could be swung from mouth to mouth — an ingenious 
 expedient which is still kept up by some famihes in 
 Albany ; but which prevails without exception in Com- 
 munipaw, Bergen, Flatbush, and all our uncontaminated 
 Dutch villages. 
 
 At these primitive tea-parties the utmost propriety 
 and dignity of deportment prevailed. No flirting or 
 
OUR ANCESTORS. 41 
 
 coqueting — no gambling of old ladies, nor hoyden chat- 
 tering and romping of young ones — no self-satisfied 
 struttings of wealthy gentlemen, with their brains in 
 their pockets — nor amusing conceits and monkey diver- 
 tisements of smart young gentlemen with no brains at 
 all. On the contrary, the young ladies seated themselves 
 demurely in their rush-bottomed chairs, and knit their 
 own woollen stockings ; nor ever opened their lips, 
 excepting to say yaiu^ Mynheer^ or yaw^ yaw, Vrouw, to 
 any question that was asked them ; behaving in all 
 things like decent, well-educated damsels. As to the 
 gentlemen, each of them tranquilly smoked his pipe, 
 and seemed lost in contemplation of the blue and white 
 tiles with which the fire-places were decorated; wherein 
 sundry passages from Scripture were piously portrayed 
 — Tobit and his dog figured to great advantage; Haraan 
 swung conspicuously on his gibbet; and Jonah appeared 
 most manfully bouncing out of the whale, hke Harlequin 
 through a barrel of fire. 
 
 The parties broke up without noise and without con- 
 fusion. They were carried home by th.eir own carriages, 
 that is to say, by the vehicles Nature had provided them, 
 excepting such of the wealthy as could afford to keep a 
 wagon. The gentlemen gallantly attended their fair 
 ones to their respective abodes, and took leave of them, 
 with a hearty smack, at the door ; which, as it was an 
 established piece of etiquette, done in perfect simplicity 
 and honesty of heart, occasioned no scandal at that 
 time, nor should it at the present; if o«r great-grand- 
 
42 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 fathers approved of the custom, it would argue a great 
 want of reverence in their descendants to say a word 
 against it. 
 
 For a veritable account of the early condition of the 
 cit}'- itself, we quote the subjoined extract from a contem- 
 porary record, dated 150 years ago. 
 
 " The Cittie of New York is a pleasant well compacted 
 place, situated on a Commodious River which is a fine har- 
 bour for shipping. The Buildings Brick G-enerally, very 
 stately and high. The Bricks in some of the Houses are 
 of divers coullers and laid in Checkers, being glazed look 
 very agreeable. The inside of them are neat to admira- 
 tion, the wooden work, for only the walls are plaistered, 
 and the Sumers and Gist are planed and kept very white 
 scowr'd, as so are all the partitions made of Boards. The 
 fire places have no Jambs but the backs run flush with 
 the walls, and the Hearth is of Tyles and is as far out 
 into the Room at the Ends as before the fire, which is 
 generally five foot in the Low'r rooms.'' 
 
 Our worthy Dutch ancestors were not only remarkable 
 for their proclivity to the pipe, their over fondishness, if 
 not superstition, caused them some trouble; for in 1665 
 we find the witchcraft of Salem, and parts adjacent, had 
 also begun to efiect the peace of the Nieuw Netherlands. 
 
 The Dutch were remarkable for their choice of high 
 sounding names for their vessels ; an old record describes 
 a collection at one time in New York, with such names 
 as the following, to wit : The Angel Gabriel, King David, 
 Queen Esther, King Solomon, Arms of Renselaerwyck, 
 
OCR ANCESTORS. 43 
 
 Arms of Stuy vesant, the G-reat Christopher, the Crowned 
 Sea Beers, the Spotted Cow, &c. 
 
 In the couatry parts around the city, we frequently 
 come, Crusoe-hke, upon the tracks and traces of the 
 early settlers, usually nestled in some retired nook, sur- 
 rounded by massive trees, whose expansive branches 
 cast their cooling shadows across the scene; the old 
 homestead starts into notice — the gable end facing the 
 road — and a mass of foliage creeping and clinging about 
 all that is available. 
 
 The love of the beautiful must have been inherent in 
 the Hollanders. The great names associated with Art, 
 and whose works still delight us — Both, Holbein, and a 
 host of others — bear strong attestation to their apprecia- 
 tion of the picturesque. The little grave-yard, where 
 kith and kin " slept their long sleep,'' was uniformly 
 situated upon the glebe lands of the mansion, and the 
 tribute paid to the memory of the departed, overflowed 
 with warm and sympathetic courtesies. The funerals 
 were attended to their silent resting-places by the 
 women as well as the men — this habit lingered until 
 after the Revolution, and was exemplified at the decease 
 of the wife of Daniel Phoenix, the City Treasurer. 
 We are wiser now: show takes the precedence of grief, 
 the burial of the dead is but the mockery of woe, our 
 public testimonials are tasteless and vitiating. The solem- 
 nity of death is made ridiculous by aldermanic pomp and 
 an empty urn decorated with crape, followed by fictitious 
 mourners and men of mark and authority ornamented. 
 
44 NE W YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 playing a character in the gloomy farce, and drilling their 
 countenances into a most touching resemblance of real 
 sorrow. This is not the way to refine to any extent the 
 public morality. 
 
 The amusements of the early colonists were few and 
 simple, befitting the habits of the people — bowls and 
 chequers, seems to have been the staple commodity; 
 but though they appeared so passive and dull to any 
 outward emotion, yet, in reality, they left as strong an 
 impress upon society as either the Cavaliers or Round- 
 heads. The frivolities of the former, or the tyranny of 
 the latter, found little favor in those they came among — 
 universal liberty of conscience to worship God as in- 
 dividual thought prompted, laid the foundation of the 
 religious equality we now enjoy. From the earliest 
 times the colony was the home of the persecuted, and 
 many of every creed " and numbers with no creed at 
 all,'' flocked from Europe and the neighboring settle- 
 ments to locate themselves in a place offering so many 
 advantages. The privilege of citizenship was granted to 
 every settler. The Walloons in 1624, after the dire 
 events of the " thirty j^ears' war,'' turned their thoughts 
 to America. The colonial institutions of Virginia re- 
 fused them an asylum, they then applied to the govern- 
 ment of the New Netherlands, and were allowed to lo- 
 cate themselves at the Wallabout — "or Bay of Strangers,'' 
 situated within the limits of the present city of Brooklyn. 
 In the year 1642, a party of English, disgusted with the 
 "iron rule" of the New Englanders, came hither and 
 
OUR ANCESTORS. 45 
 
 planted themselves on the Northern parts of the same 
 Island, having lands assigned them for that purpose — 
 they were ultimately joined by Throgmorton and his 
 associates, (who had been expelled from Massachusetts) 
 with Roger Williams and thirty-five families, who re- 
 moved to the place ever since called from the name 
 of their leader " Throg's Neck." Other colonists arrived, 
 fugitives from the harsh and overbearing conduct of 
 the New England settlements. In 1665, Governor Stuy- 
 vesant conquered the Swedish colony on the Delaware, 
 and this caused a number of Swedes to migrate to the 
 banks of the Hudson. The conquest of New Netherland 
 by the English in 1668, made a still further change in 
 the habits of the people — after that a large number of 
 French Protestants (flying from the revocation of the 
 edict of Nantes) sought a refuge in New York. Num- 
 bers also of (partisans of the Stewarts) English, Irish and 
 Scotch, came over to add to the population and perpetu- 
 ate the desire for freedom in their new country; and 
 thus, from the incongruous materials of other nations, the 
 primary social element has been found an ardent love of 
 liberty (carried sometimes to excess,) as the com- 
 pact of our institutions. So all hail ! to the Dutch, 
 
 the honest independent founders of our state, and as we 
 revert to the blessings that surround us, let us cherish 
 their memories, and endeavor to emulate their good and 
 gentle natures ; nor forget that when the footfall of 
 liberty was echoless, here in this favored land, the noble- 
 hearted Dutch received with open arms the fugitive and 
 
46 NEW YORK IN A NUT- SHELL. 
 
 the outcast, and granted to the down-trodden of the 
 earth a home and a welcome. 
 
 Looking through the vista of time, to those days of 
 primitive simphcity, we are almost tempted to covert 
 their complacent repose and unostentatious ease. If 
 their ambition was lowly, they attained it without the 
 incessant toil and strife that characterize the " battle of 
 life" in these degenerate days. Their rudeness might 
 shock our finer sensibiUties, but could they revisit their 
 once loved city, and note its strange metamorphoses, how 
 QO less earnest would be their pious horror at our pre- 
 sent extravagance and excesses. Happily for both par- 
 ties, such a catastrophe need not be anticipated ; and as 
 they enjoyed in undisturbed possession, their favorite 
 meerschaum, and saw not, through the thick clouds they 
 exhaled therefrom, the vices and transgressions of their 
 head- strong successors, so may we have recourse to the 
 modifying influence of our cigar, forget their foibles, cher- 
 ish their virtues, and embalm in our hearts the memory 
 of their noble deeds as founders of the great city which 
 -itill boasts here and there a mouldering monument their 
 own hands reared. 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 
 
 O, reader, had you in your mind 
 Such stores as silent thousjht can bring, — 
 
 O ! gentle reader, you would fini 
 A lale in every thing. 
 
 THE Indians designated their villages, as well as their 
 tribes, from characteristic geographical features* — 
 for example, the Narragansetts took their name from the 
 small island adjacent to the locality they occupied. Mas- 
 sachusetts signifies hlue hills (the appearance of land at 
 sea,) — Onondaga means people living on a hill, — Oneida^ 
 springing from a rock, and the significancy of the name 
 they gave to this island, situated at the junction of two 
 rivers, is no less apparent, — mon-a-ton-nughas, i. e. the 
 tribes of the luhirJpool. The Indian name of the extreme 
 point of land, where the Battery afterwards stood, they 
 named Kapsee — (a place of safe landing.) Corlaer'a 
 Hook was originally called NaghtoguJc (sand.) Long 
 Island they named Metoac, after the tribes of that name 
 living there, and Staten Island was Monochnong — deno- 
 ting haunted woods. The Mohegans called Sandy Hook^ 
 Naosh, meaning a distant point ; Bediow's Island, Minni- 
 sais, (lesser island) ; and Brooklyn heights they designa- 
 ted by the euphonious name of Ihpetonga, signifying a 
 sandy height. But we leave the poor Indian, who has 
 bequeathed to us — as the sole memento of his prior pos- 
 session of the soil, — merely the musical names he con- 
 ferred on its streams, hills, and valleys, and solicit the 
 
 ♦Vide \atc8 :und Moulton's Hi.si. 
 
48 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 reader to accompany us in our search for whatever may 
 yet remain extant, or in story, of the early days of civil- 
 ized life. 
 
 Tales of the wilder Past havs lost their spell, 
 The Present's brightness dims her fading page ; 
 
 Here freedom, learning, peace and afflnence dwell, 
 While few the relics of a ruder age. 
 
 Few, indeed, are the memorials of the olden time 
 amongst us ; for utihtarianism and the love of innovation 
 are ever active in despoiling this good city of Gotham 
 of its vestiges of the past. Yet is it a pleasant pursuit 
 to seek them out, and linger about the "nooks and cor- 
 ners'' rife with historic interest — the shrines of heroic 
 virtue and genius that illustrates our country's story. 
 Who does not feel a pecuhar interest, mingled with a 
 kind of reverential awe, as he gazes upon the old edifice in 
 Franklin square, once the residence of the great and good 
 Washington — or treads what remains of the hallowed 
 sod of Fort Green, or the battle grounds once moistened 
 with the life-blood of the martyrs to Liberty ? 
 
 Taking the Battery as a starting point, the first object 
 of historic interest we encounter, is the Old Kennedy 
 House, No. 1 Broadway. During the war of Independence? 
 it was successively the residence of Lord Cornwallis, 
 General Clinton, Lord Howe, and General Washington. 
 This house was erected in 1760, by Hon. Capt. Kennedy, 
 who returned to England prior to the Revolution, and 
 became Earl of Cassilis. It subsequently came into the 
 possession of his youngest son, from whom it passed into 
 that of the late Nathaniel Prime. Talleyrand passed 
 
— *-x X Vs=:i"^ 
 
 ^ms, ^-^. 
 
 
 
50 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 some time under its roof, during which period, though 
 his abilities were admired, he was personally detested for 
 the coldness and want of heart he exhibited in speaking 
 of the misfortunes of his friends and countrymen. The 
 drawing-room was probably the largest in the city, and 
 in it the company frequenting the house, habitually as- 
 sembled. One cold day, Talleyrand entered, wearing, a? 
 was then not unusual, buckskin breeches, and placed 
 himself upon the hearth, with his back close to the jQre. 
 The great heat soon caused the leather to scorch and 
 smoke, and the faces of those around exhibited the re- 
 straint of good breeding, struggling against mirth. Tal- 
 leyrand's quick eye penetrated the mask without discov- 
 ering the cause, until he seated himself, when his cry of 
 pain, drove away the ladies to conceal their merriment, 
 and showed that, however little feeling he might have 
 for others, he had some for himself. 
 
 From this house anxious eyes watched the destruction 
 of the statue of Greorge III., in the Bowling G-reen ; and 
 a few years afterwards, other eyes saw from its win- 
 dows, the last soldiers of that King passing forever from 
 our shores. Still later, others looked sadly on the fune- 
 ral of Fulton, who died in a house which had been built 
 in what was once the garden. From its roof, at a more 
 recent period, was seen with joy, the marriage of the 
 lakes with the ocean. The increase of the city, with the 
 new wants of commerce, resulting from that happy union 
 will, ere long, cause this mansion to give place to other 
 buildings ; nor should we regret such changes, when ren- 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 51 
 
 dered necessary by the prosperity of the communitv. 
 As the residence of the English noble, the British Gen- 
 eral, and the wealthy Republican, it was alike distinguish- 
 ed for its hospitality. 
 
 This house, which has been recently modernized by 
 the addition of two stories, &c., was the scene of some 
 memorable negotiations during the war. Here Arnold 
 concerted his treasonable project with Andre at the Clin- 
 ton's — his head-quarters at the time. Arnold also occu- 
 pied more frequently the third house from the Battery, 
 in Broadway. Arnold is said to have had a sentinel at 
 his door; when his traitorous character had become known, 
 he used to be saluted in the streets by the epithet of "the 
 traitor-general." He was guarded by an escort from Sir 
 Henry CUnton. Gen. Gage's head-quarters, in 1765, 
 were the small low building now called the Atlantic Gar- 
 den. 
 
 The Bowhng Green was originally enclosed in 1732, 
 "with walks therein for the beauty and ornament of said 
 street, (Broadway,) as well as for the sports and delight 
 of the inhabitants of the citie." 
 
 Broadway was originally called •' De Heere Straat" or 
 principal street. In 1697 it was resolved " that the lights 
 be hung out in the darke time of the moon within this 
 citty, and for the use of the inhabitants — and that every 
 7th house doe hang out a lanthorn and a candle in it, &c." 
 This economic lunar arrangement is still in vogue with . 
 our worthy corporation. 
 
 William IV., when he visited this country, as a mid- 
 
59 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 shipman, under the guardianship of Admiral Digby, lodg- 
 ed in the brick building, corner of Broadway and Beaver 
 street. The site of the old Grovernraent House, is now 
 occupied by a range of dwelling houses at the south side 
 of the enclosure, known as the Bowling Green, adjoining 
 the Battery. The old Government House was occupied 
 by Jay and Clinton, while holding the executive office. 
 It was subsequently used for the Custom House, (temp.^ 
 1790 to 1815.) when it was taken down. This ground 
 is also consecrated by earlier recollections, — on this spot 
 the Dutch and English forts were erected ; and it was 
 here, during the war, the most important military works 
 were raised. The old Fort was taken down in 1788. 
 The governor's house, together with the old church, both 
 of which were within the walls of the fort, were destroy- 
 ed by fire about 1741, after which some half dozen more 
 fires occurred, and no satisfactory account being afforded 
 as to their cause and origin, they gave rise to the memo- 
 rable panic, known as the " negro plot." New York has 
 ever been remarkable for the frequency of its conflagra- 
 tions. During the time the British held possession of 
 the city, two -or three great fires occurred in 1776 and 
 1778 ; in another instance nearly 500 houses were de- 
 stroyed. The devastating calamities which took place 
 in 1835, and even at a still more recent date, are fresh 
 in the recollection of the reader. General Gates lived ^ 
 just prior to the revolution, at No. 69 Broadway. He 
 had his house splendidly illuminated on the arrival of the 
 news of the repeal of the Stamp Act. In the same house 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 53 
 
 also, once dwelt General Alexander, afterwards better 
 known as Lord Sterling. Governor Tryon lived, aftei 
 the fort was burnt, at the corner of Wall and William 
 streets, now the Bank of New York. 
 
 It was near this spot the celebrated statue of William 
 Pitt was placed. A considerable portion of this statue is 
 yet extant, and may be seen in front of the Museum 
 Hotel, (5th Ward House,) West Broadway. Here also 
 is preserved as a relic, a portion of the metal of the 
 equestrian statue of George III, (once placed within the 
 enclosure of the Bowling Green,) that pertinacious mon- 
 arch, whose obstinacy was the final cause of our securing 
 national independence. That same statue was ultimately 
 melted down into shot, and converted into an engine of 
 destruction against His Majesty's adherents — an indica- 
 tion sufficiently unequivocal of the state of republican 
 feeling at this early day. Verplanck House stood on the 
 site of the present " Bank of the State of New York," in 
 Wall street. It vsras the residence of more than one of 
 the " Commandants" of the city, and witnessed some 
 grave debates, as well as gay diversions and liberal hos- 
 pitahties. 
 
 The ancient Dutch Stadt Huys, or City Hall of New 
 Amsterdam, stood at Coentis Slip, in which the Schout, 
 Burgomasters and Schepens held their sessions. It was 
 built in the year 1642, and taken down in 1699. On the 
 site of the present Custom House, was erected another 
 City Hall, afterwards Congress Hall, which, besides com- 
 prehending the Law Courts, also included a Prison. In 
 
54 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 front of the building stood the " stocks, a pillory, and a 
 whipping-post.'' At this place of public chastisement, 
 culprits were subjected to one or other of these ordeals* 
 Here Avas also held the sessions of the Provincial Assem- 
 bly, the Supreme Court, and the Mayor and Admiralty 
 Courts ; it was also the place of election. It was finally 
 altered to suit the Congress, and such as it then was has 
 been preserved in an engraving done by Tiebout in 1789 ; 
 the jail prisoners were at that time moved to the then 
 "new jail in the Park.'' But the Congress removing to 
 Philadelphia, through the influence of Robert Morris, as 
 the New Yorkers set forth in a caricature, it was again 
 altered to receive the Courts and the State Assembly. It 
 is curious respecting the City Hall, that it was originally 
 constructed on the site and out of the materials of a 
 stone bastion, in the line of the wall of defence along 
 Wall street ; and after it was built, it is on record that it 
 was ordered that it be embellished with the arms of the 
 King and the Earl of Bellermont, the corporation sub- 
 sequently ordered that the latter should be taken down 
 and broken. The British, while in New York, used the 
 City Hall as the place of the main guard; " at the same 
 time they much plundered and broke up the only pubhc 
 library, then contained in one of its chambers. Its best 
 style of appearance was on the occasion of being fitted up 
 for the first Congress under the Constitution, directed by 
 the engineer, Major L'Bnfant. It was in its gallery on 
 Wall street, in April, 1789, that Cen. Washington was 
 inaugurated the first President of the United States. This 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 55 
 
 important public ceremony, the oath of office, was done 
 in the open gallery in front of the Senate Chamber, in the 
 view of an immense concourse of citizens. There stood 
 Washington, invested with a suit of dark silk velvet 
 of the old cut, steel hilted small sword by his side, 
 hair in bag and full powdered, in black silk hose and shoes 
 with silver buckles, as he took the oath of office, to 
 Chancellor Livingston."* Dr. Duer thus describes the 
 scene of the inauguration : — 
 
 " This au?picious ceremony took place under the por- 
 tico of Federal Hall, upon the balcony in front of the 
 Senate Chamber, in the immediate presence of both 
 Houses of Congress, and in full view of the crowds that 
 thronged the adjacent streets. The oath was adminis- 
 tered by Chancellor Livingston, and when the illustrious 
 Chief had kissed the book, the Chancellor, with a loud 
 voice, proclaimed, "Long live George Washington, Presi- 
 dent of the United States.'' Never shall I forget the 
 thrilling eflfectof the thundering cheers which burst forth, 
 as from one voice, peal after peal from the assembled 
 multitude. Nor was it the voices alone of the people 
 that responded to the announcement, their hearts beat in 
 unison with the echoes resounding through the distant 
 Btreets ; and many a tear stole down the rugged cheeks 
 of the hardiest of the spectators, as well I noted from my 
 Btation in an upper window of the neighboring house of 
 Colonel Hamilton.'' 
 
 The " Tontine" building, in Wall street, corner of 
 
56 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 Water street, is another object worthy of note. It was 
 commenced in 1792, by an association of merchants, for 
 the purposes of an Exchange or rendezvous for mercan- 
 tile purposes. The constitution under which it was 
 formed, provided for a number of shares of $200 each — 
 numbering about 300 subscribers who held a Hfe-interest 
 in the profits of the Institution. Those who enjoyed the 
 greatest longevity having the largest share of the booty. 
 The property is still held by some two or three, among 
 whom the large profits are divided. The name is de- 
 rived from one Lorenzi Tonti, a Neapolitan, who intro- 
 duced this joint-stock plan into France in 1653, under 
 Louis XIV, and hence the name Tontine came to indicate 
 " a loan advanced by a number of associated capitalists 
 for life annuities, with benefit to survivorship.'' The 
 building is now appropriated as Nesbitt's steam-printing 
 establishment. 
 
 Washington's farewell interview with his officers, took 
 place at Fraunce's Tavern, corner of Pearl and Broad 
 streets, still extant, but altered. When the officers had 
 assembled, Washington entered the room and delivered 
 his memorable address, which concluded in the following 
 words, " I cannot come to each of you to take leave, but 
 shall be obliged to you if you will come and take me by 
 the hand." Knox, who had served with him from the 
 commencement of hostilities, was the first to receive the 
 parting grasp from the hero's hand ; they each in turn 
 were greeted with the same testimonial from their es- 
 teemed leader. Leaving the room, he passed through a 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 57 
 
 line of his brave soldiers to Whitehall, where he entered 
 the Barge which had been prepared for his reception. 
 
 When Washington returned to New York, it was as 
 President of the United States. His progress then 
 through the city and county was one contniued triumph- 
 al procession. 
 
 Speaking of "Washington, reminds us of an incident 
 which has worthily linked his name with our foremost 
 man in the world of letters — W"ashington Irving. 
 
 As Washington was making his triumphal entry up 
 Broadway, young Irving was lifted above the crowd by 
 his parents to the General, with the request that he would 
 confer his name upon him; a proposal, flattering alike to 
 both parties — wliich was of course acceded to. This took 
 place at the corner of Ann street and Broadway. This 
 circumstance sheds a new lustre upon a name already 
 embalmed with the most cherished associations in the 
 common heart. 
 
 New York is noted for its pageants and processions. 
 That on the occasion of the last visit of Gen. Lafayette, 
 presented the most imposing spectacle of its time. Mock 
 funeral obsequies are an unnatural outshoot of this love of 
 spectacle. We have also another development of the 
 same weakness, in the almost diurnal parading through 
 the streets of military and militia companies — those 
 valiant and heroic bands, so formidable in peace, and 
 fearful in war. 
 
 Whitehall, at the southern extremity of Broadway, de- 
 
58 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 rived its name from a large white house built by one 
 Col. Moore. 
 
 The Dutch, in imitation of their " faderland," intersected 
 the streets of " Nieuw Amsterdam" with dykes. Most of 
 their streets boasted of these muddy accessories — and in 
 many instances their names indicated the fact. Their 
 principal canal or creek was the ' Heere Graft,' which led 
 to the East River ; Bridge street (De Braugh Straat) took 
 its appellative from the bridge which crossed this dyke. 
 This Dutch arrangement of the streets was extended even 
 beyond the limits of the primitive city proper. A little 
 beyond Peck's Shp existed a low water-course, which in 
 high water ran quite up in union with the Collect (Kolck.) 
 and thence joining with Lispenard's swamp on the North 
 river side, produced a union of waters across the city ; 
 thus dividing it into an island, which is shown by the 
 present lowness of the hne of Pearl street as it traverses 
 Chatham street. Boats were used occasionally to carry 
 the passengers from either side of Pearl street. Canal 
 street derives its name from a similar circumstance, or 
 rather from the water-works, originated in 1773, by 
 Christopher Colles, for supplying water to the city. 
 Cliff street derives its name from Dirk Yonder Cliff; and 
 John street, from John Harpendingk, who gave the 
 Dutch Congregation the ground on which the North 
 Church is built, whose escutcheon is therein preserved. 
 
 The old Dutch records show that all the rear of the 
 town was divided into farms called "Bouwerys," from 
 whence we have Bowery now. In 1687, sixteen acres 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 59 
 
 of the Basse Bowery was granted to Arien Cornelisson, 
 for the consideration of one fat capon a year,. 
 
 The hills were sometimes precipitous, as from Beek- 
 man's and Peck's hills, and in the neighborhood of Pearl, 
 Beekman and Ferry streets, and from the Middle Dutch 
 Church, in Nassau street, down to Maiden lane; and 
 sometimes gradually sloping, as on either hills along the 
 line of the water, coursing through the region of Maiden 
 lane. 
 
 Hamilton, when he acted as Secretary of the Treasury, 
 wrote the Federalist, and those admirable reports which 
 now form the most luminous commentary upon our con- 
 stitution, at a house in Wall street between Broad and 
 William streets, its site being now occupied by the Me- 
 chanics' Bank. His last favorite residence was the 
 Grange, his country seat at Bloomingdale. He lived also 
 for some time at Bayard House on the banks of the 
 North River. His hapless duel with Burr, near Wee- 
 hawken is pointed out to visitors, — a stone, it is said^ 
 marks the spot where Hamilton fell. He breathed 
 his last in an apartment of Bayard's House, which stood 
 near 14th street, being the nearest place to which he 
 could be removed after he received his death wound. 
 
 No. 120 William street is a relic of the olden time ; it 
 is a low wooden building, with gable end fronting the 
 street. The lirst Methodist society in this city used this 
 old shanty for their place of worship, which on secular 
 days was used as a "rigging loft." There Embury first 
 
60 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 preached; and, being a carpenter, he made his own pul- 
 pit, — a true Puritan characteristic. 
 
 "The ancient mansion and farm out on the East river, 
 at the head of King's road, once the stately establishment 
 of Dr. Gerardus Beekman, was rendered peculiarly vene- 
 rable for the grandeur of its lofty and aged elms and oaks; 
 its rural aspect and deep shade attracted the notice of 
 Irving'.s pen. It was used, too, as the selected country 
 residence of General Clinton in the time of the war. 
 
 Robert Murray's farm-house in this neighborhood 
 should be venerable, from its associations. There his 
 patriot lady entertained Gen. Howe and his staff with 
 refreshments, after their landing with the army at " Kips' 
 Bay," on purpose to afford Gen. Putnam time to lead off 
 his troops in retreat from the city, which he effected. 
 She was a Friend, and the mother of the celebrated 
 Lindley Murray."* 
 
 Coenties' slip is a corruption of Countess slip, a name 
 given to to it in honor of the Countess Bellemont, the 
 child-wife of Earl Bellemont, who became Governor in 
 1698. 
 
 Leisler and Milbourne, the proto-martyrs of popular 
 liberty in America, met with a sangfuinary death, May 
 16, 1691, on the verge of Beekman's swamp, near the 
 spot wliere Tammany Hall now stands. 
 
 Where Catharine street now stands was the spot where 
 the stamps were burnt at the dead of night by citizens, 
 in the year of grace, 1766. 
 
 * Watson. 
 
 I 
 
62 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 The '' brick meeting," built in 1764, on Beekman street, 
 near Chatham street, was then said to be, in popular par- 
 lance, in " the fields." There Whitefield was heard to 
 preach. 
 
 The British barracks of wood, enclosed by a high fence, 
 extended from Broadway to Chatham street, along 
 the present Chambers street, exactly where is now the Mu- 
 seum. It had a gate at each end; — the one by Chatham 
 street was called " Tryon's Gate," after the name of the 
 governor, from which we have derived the name of 
 " Tryon's Row." 
 
 Frankhn, who, while in New York, was engaged in 
 experimenting in electricity, was sorely at a loss for appa- 
 ratus with which to prosecute his researches, no artisan 
 being found competent to aid him ; his own resources, 
 however, proved more successful, for he constructed an 
 electrical machine himself, which answered the end His 
 experiments were conducted, and the principles of the 
 science verified by his machine. His observatory, we 
 learn from Dr. Francis, was the steeple of the old Dutch 
 Church, — now used as the Post Office, in Nassau street. 
 Who will not gaze with intense interest at this starting- 
 point of that luminous train which now encircles the 
 globe, and by which we communicate in letters of light, 
 with our antipodes, almost with the celerity of thought. 
 Prof. Morse experimented in later times, in one of the 
 turrets of the New York University. 
 
 At the Middle Dutch Church, it was formerly the duty 
 of the clerk to have an hour-glass standing near, which 
 
HISTORICAL LOCALITIES. 63 
 
 was properly placed at the commencement of the sermon, 
 and at the moment when the last grains of sand had left 
 the upper for the lower cavity, he gave three raps with his 
 cane, to remind the Domine that his time had elapsed. 
 One of the country domines, however, quietly let two 
 glasses run through, and then informed his auditors, that 
 inasmuch as they had been patient in sitting through two 
 glasses, he would proceed with the third. 
 
 When notices were requested to be published from the 
 pulpit, they were handed to the officiating minister by the 
 clerk, through the medium of a long pole, slit at one end, 
 into which the note was inserted. 
 
 After uttering the concluding word of his text, the do- 
 mine would invariably exclaim, thus far ! and before en- 
 tering the pulpit, he would solemnly raise his hat before 
 his face, and silently utter a short ejaculatory prayer for a 
 blessing on his labors. This ceremony, which was uni- 
 versal until after the death of Dr. Abeel, was continued 
 by the late Dr. Kuypers until his demise. 
 
 The domines in former days adhered very closely to 
 the use of the gown or robes, seldom appearing in pub- 
 lic without them, and deeming it a high breach of order 
 to administer the communion without them. The in- 
 stallation of a senior pastor had well nigh been put 
 oflf for the space of a week, as he came unprepared 
 with a gown for the occasion, — Dr. Livingston refusing 
 to officiate until luckily a robe was borrowed for the occa- 
 sion. 
 
 The collections after service were taken up in black 
 
64 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 velvet bags attached to the end of long poles, instead of 
 plates, as is the present custom. The bags were, in some 
 churches, furnished with a small bell fixed to the pen- 
 dant end. The Middle Dutch Church was used also as a 
 prison ; among others, Col. Ethan Allen was incarcerated 
 there. 
 
 The old City Hotel, in Broadway, the site of which is 
 now occupied by a fine row of brown stone buildings, 
 was for a long time the most notable edifice of the kind 
 in the city. A dozen years ago it was not considered an 
 unimportant establishment — and a few years earlier, it 
 was the resort of the " lady patronesses" of the city. 
 Here mingled the gay and the beautiful; here too, still 
 earlier, Washington, with his suite, attended the brilliant 
 assemblies of his days. This hotel was the first instance 
 of the use of slates for roofing in America. At the back 
 of the City Hotel, stood the old sugar house, corner 
 of Thames and Lumber streets (now Trinity place.) 
 This building was subsequently used as the Hospital for 
 the Cholera, at which Dr. J. W. Francis, the distinguished 
 physician of this city, officiated as Corporation doctor. 
 
 A still more interesting relic of the past, was the old 
 Sugar-House Prison, which, till within a very few years, 
 stood in Liberty street, adjacent to the Dutch church, 
 now the Post Office. It was founded in 1689, and occu- 
 pied as a Sugar refining factory till 1777, when Lord 
 Howe converted it into a place of confinement for Ameri- 
 can prisoners. Grant Thorburn gives the following 
 reminiscences connected with this memorable locale of 
 
HISTORICAL LOCALITIES. C5 
 
 the suflferiags of some of the prisoners in our great strug- 
 gle for national independence. 
 
 Fifty-seven years ago, this sugar-house stood in a large 
 open lot, about fifteen feet back from the pavement on 
 Liberty street, adjoining the yard of the present Post 
 Office. It was surrounded by a brick and board fence, 
 ten feet high. It was five stories high, with small nar- 
 row windows, exhibiting a jail-hke aspect, and trans- 
 porting the memory to scenes of former days, when llx- 
 revolution poured its desolating waves over the fairest 
 portion of our country. On the bricks of the window- 
 sills and door-posts, were inscribed hundreds of initials 
 and ancient dates, as if done with a pen-knife or naij. 
 This was the work of many of the American prisoners, 
 who adopted this, among other means, to while away 
 their weeks and years of monotonous confinement, 
 
 " Here many pined in want and dungeon's gloom ; 
 Shut from the common air, and common use 
 Of their own limbs." 
 
 There was a path round the building, where, for six long 
 years, by night and by day, two Hessian soldiers walked 
 their rounds while guarding tlie American prisoners. One 
 morning, fifty-two years ago, I noticed two of these old 
 soldiers in the sugar-house yard, — they had only three 
 legs between them, one having a wooden-leg. As they 
 were moving ofi^, says I, " Gentlemen, do you remember 
 this building?" 
 
 " Aye, indeed; I shall never forget it,'' replied he of 
 the one leg. " For twelve months that dark hole," point 
 
66 NEW-YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 ing to the cellar, "was my only home, and at that win- 
 dow I saw the corpse of my brother thrown into the 
 dead cart with twelve others, who had died the night 
 previous of the jail-fever. While the fever prevailed, we 
 were let out iu companies of twenty, for half an hour at 
 a time, to breathe the fresh air. Inside we were so 
 crowded, that we divided our numbers into squads of six 
 each. Number one stood ten minutes as close to the 
 window as they could crowd, to catch the cool air; when 
 they stepped back, number two took their place, and so 
 on. Seats we had none; and our beds were only straw 
 on the floor, with vermin intermixed ; and there," con- 
 tinued he, pointing with his cane to a brick in the wall, 
 "is my kill-time work, A. Y. S., 1777, viz.: Abraham 
 Van Sickler, which I scratched on the brick with an old 
 nail. When peace came, some learned the fate of their 
 relations from the initials." 
 
 We here copy some extracts from the published re- 
 miniscences of an old Revolutionary soldier — Levi Han- 
 ford, in his 94th year, and residing at Walton, in this 
 State. 
 
 " It is," said he, " with feelings of sadness that I view 
 the time fast approaching, when those that were active 
 in that war will have passed away, and those that shall 
 then live will know nothing of the events of that day, 
 only as they read of them as they read the history of 
 other nations. History records the most important of 
 its events and transactions ; yet there are scenes of noble 
 daring, of personal sacrifice, suffering, and distress, that 
 never have, and never will find their way into the pages 
 of history ; but will fade out as the old soldiers pass 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 67 
 
 away, till the last page of teeming tradition shall be 
 placed side by side, and buried in the grave, with the 
 last of the old sokiiers. They be^ran to fight at Concord, 
 and Lexington, in the spring of 1775; and in the Septem- 
 ber following, I was old enough to do duty — that is, I 
 was sixteen, the age then required. During that and 
 the following year. I went occasionally on duty, for short 
 periods, to New York and other places. I was one of a 
 company sent in the spring of 1776 to Governor's Island, 
 in the night, to break the first ground that was ever bro- 
 ken, to fortify that now strong place. In March, 1777, 1 
 was called out as a guard on Long Island Sound. On 
 the 13th of March, a very dark and stormy night, I, with 
 twelve others, was stationed as an out guard. Our offi- 
 cers were negligent, and in the night we were surround- 
 ed by Tories fiom Long Island, and the guard made pri- 
 soners, myself among the rest, — an ignorant boy of seven- 
 teen. We were then taken in an open boat across the 
 sound, to Huntinsfton ; from thei'e to Flushing, and 
 thence to New York, and incarcerated in the Sugar 
 House Prison, in Liberty-street, near the new Dutch 
 Church, which was at that time converted into a riding 
 school for the British light horse, and is now used for 
 the City Post Office. 
 
 The old Prison, which is now torn down, was a stone 
 building, six stories high; but the stories were very low, 
 which made it dark and confined. It was built for a 
 sugar refinery, and its appearance was dark and gloomy, 
 while its small and deep windows gave it the appearance 
 of a prison, which it really was, with a high board fence 
 inclosing a small yard. We found at this time about 
 forty or fifty prisoners, in an emaciated, starving, wretch- 
 ed condition. Their numbers were constantly being 
 diminished by sickness and death, and as constantly in- 
 creased by the accession of new prisoners, to the num- 
 ber of 400 or 500. Our allowance of provisions was 
 
68 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 pork and sea biscuit. It was our common practice to 
 put water in our camp kettle, then break up the biscuit 
 into it, skim off the worms, put in the pork, and boil it, 
 if we had fuel ; but this was allowed us only part of the 
 time ; and when we could get no fuel, we ate our meat 
 raw, and our biscuit dry. Starved as we were, there 
 was nothing in the shape of food that was rejected or 
 was unpalatable. Crowded together, in bad air and with 
 such diet, it was not strange that disease and pestilence 
 should prevail. I had not been long there before I was 
 taken with the small pox, and taken to the Small Pox 
 Hospital. When I returned to the prison, others of our 
 company had been taken to the different hospitals, from 
 which few returned ; I remained in prison for a time, 
 when, from bad air, confinement, and bad diet, I was 
 taken sick, and conveyed to the Quaker Meeting Hos- 
 pital, so called from its being a Quaker Meeting. 
 
 I soon became insensible, and the time passed uncon- 
 sciously till I began slowly to recover health and strength, 
 and was again permitted to exchange these scenes of 
 disease and death, for the prison. On my return, 1 
 found the number of our companions still further reduced 
 by sickness and death. During all this time, an influence 
 was exerted to induce the prisoners to enlist in the Tory 
 regiments. Although our sufferings were intolerable 
 and the men were urged by those that had been their 
 own townsmen and neighbors, who had joined the Brit- 
 ish, yet the instances were rare that they could be in- 
 fluenced to enlist. So vi^edded were they to their piin- 
 ciples, that they chose honorable death rather than sacri- 
 fice them. I remained in the prison till the 24th of Oc- 
 tober, when the names of a company of prisoners were 
 taken down, and mine among the rest. It was told us 
 that we were going home. We drew our week's provi- 
 sion, which, by solicitation, we cheerfully divided among 
 our starving associates, whom we were to leave in prison 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 69 
 
 But whether it was to torment and aggravate our feel- 
 ings, I know not; but this I do know, that instead of 
 going home, we were taiven from the prison, and put on 
 board one of the prison-ships (the Good Intent) lying in 
 the North River, and reported there with one week's 
 provision. The scene of starvation and suffering that 
 followed cannot be described; everything was eaten that 
 could appease hunger. Fi'om this and other causes, and 
 crowded as we were, with over two hundred in the hold 
 of one ship, enfeebled as we had become, and now re- 
 duced by famine, pestilence began to sweep us down, till 
 in less than two months we were reduced by death to 
 scarcely one hundred. In addition to all this, we were 
 treated with the utmost severity and cruelty. In De- 
 cember, when the river began to freeze, our ship was 
 taken round into the Wallabout, where lay the Jersey, 
 another prison-ship of horrific memory, whose rotted hulk 
 recently remained to mark the spot where thousands 
 yielded up their lives a sacrifice to British cruelty. 
 
 The dead from these ships were thrown into the 
 tren<:hes of our fortifications ; and their bones, after the 
 war, were collected and decently buried. It was here 
 that Etuan Allen exhausted his fund of curses, and bit- 
 ter invectives against the British, as he passed among the 
 prisoners and viewed the loathsome dens of suffering 
 after his return from his shameful imprisonment m Eng- 
 land. Here, again, I was taken sick, and my name taken 
 down to the Hospital. The day before New Year's, the 
 sick were placed in a boat for the city ; she had lost a 
 piece of plank from her bottom ; but it was filled up with 
 ice, and we were taken in tow. From the motion, the 
 ice soon loosened, and the boat began to leak; and be- 
 fore we had gone far, the sailors inquired if we leaked. 
 Our men, from pride, and not to show fear, replied, but a 
 mere trifle; but they soon perceived oiu- increased heft, 
 pulled hard for a time, and then lay to, until we came 
 
70 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 up. Our boat was half filled with water. When they 
 saw it, they cursed us, and pulled for the nearest dock, 
 shouting for help. When the boat touched the dock, 
 she struck level with the water, and we held on with 
 our hands to the dock and a small boat by our side to 
 keep from sinking. It was low water, and the sailors 
 reached down from the dock, clenched hold of our hands, 
 and dre-.v us up, I remember that I was drawn up with 
 much violence, that the skin was taken from my chest 
 and stomach. One poor fellow, that could not sit up, we 
 had to haul on the gunnel of the boat, to keep his head 
 out of the water ; but he got wet, and died in a few mi- 
 nutes after he was got on shore. We were taken to the 
 Hospital, in Dr. Roger's Brick Meeting House, (now Dr. 
 Spring's, near the foot of the Park.) From the yard, I 
 carried one end of a bunk, from which some person had 
 just died, into the Church, and got into it exhausted and 
 overcome. The head nurse saw my condition. She 
 made me some tea, and pulled the blankets from the sick 
 Irish, regardless of their complaints or curses, and piled 
 them on me, till I sweat profusely, and fell asleep. When 
 I awoke in the morning, they gave me some mulled wine 
 and water. I have had men die by the side of me in 
 the night, and have seen fifteen dead bodies sewed up in 
 their blankets, and laid in the corner of the yard, at one 
 time, the product of one twenty-four hours. Every 
 morning at 8 o'clock, the dead cart came, the bodies were 
 put in, the men drew their rum, and the cart was driven 
 off to the trenches of the fortifications that our people 
 had made. 
 
 I was now returned to the prison, and from this time 
 forward I enjoyed comfortable health to the close of my 
 imprisonment, which took place in the May following. 
 One day, as I was standing in the yard near the high 
 board fence, a man passed in the street close to the fence, 
 and without stopping or turning his head, said in a low 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 71 
 
 roice: " G-en, Burgotne is taken, with all his army; it 
 is a truth, you may depend upon it." Shut out from all 
 information, as we had been, the news was grateful in- 
 deed, and cheered us in our wretched prison. Knowing 
 nothing of what was taking place beyond the confines of 
 our miserable abode, we had been left to dark forebo- 
 dings and fears as to the result of our cause, and the 
 probabilities of our Government being able to exchange 
 or release us. We knew not whether our cause was 
 progressing, or whether resistance was still continued. 
 Our information was obtained only through the exagge- 
 rations of British soldiery. But this gave us the sweet 
 consolation that our cause was yet triumphant, and the 
 hope of final liberation. Had "our informant been discov- 
 ered, he might have had to run the gauntlet, or lose his 
 life for his kindness. One day, about the first of May, 
 two officers came into the prison. One of them was a 
 sergeant with the name of Wally, who had from some 
 cause, and what I never knew, taken a dislike to me ; 
 the other was an officer by the name of Blackgrove. 
 They told us there was to be an exchange of the oldest 
 prisoners. They began to call the roll. A great many 
 names were called, but no answer given ; they had been 
 exchanged by that Being who has power to set the cap- 
 tive free. Here and there was one to step forward. x\t 
 length my name was called. I attempted to step for- 
 ward to answer, when Sergeant Wally turned and 
 frowned upon me with a look of demoniac fury, and 
 motioned me back. I dared not answer. All was still. 
 Then other names were called. I felt that live or die, 
 that was the time to speak. I told officer Blackgrove 
 that there were but eleven men in prison older than my- 
 self. He looked at me, and asked why 1 did not an- 
 swer. I told him that I attempted to answer, but 
 Sergeant Wally stopped me. He turned and looked at 
 him with contempt, and then put down my name. But 
 
72 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 of the twelve taken with me, only two now remained ; 
 myself and one other were the only ones to be exchanged. 
 On the 8th of May, we were released from our wretched 
 abode. They, as if to trouble and torment us, took the 
 Southern prisoners off towards Boston to be discharged, 
 while the Eastern prisoners were taken to Elizabethtown 
 in the Jersey. From there we went to Newark. Here 
 everything was clad in the beauty of Spring, and ap- 
 peared so delightful that we could not forbear going out 
 and rolling on the green grass, the luxury appeared so 
 great after a confinement of fourteen months in a loath- 
 some prison, clothed in rags and filth, and with associates 
 too numerous and offensive to admit of description. 
 From here we traveled on as fast as our enfeebled 
 powers would permit. We crossed the Hudson at 
 Dobb's Ferry. Here we began to separate, each for his 
 own home. The officers pressed horses and went on. 
 My companion and myself were soon wending our way 
 slowly and alone. As we passed on we saw in the dis- 
 tance two men riding towards us, with each a led horse. 
 It did not take me long to discover the man on a well- 
 known horse to be my father, and the other the father 
 of my comrade. The meeting I will not attempt to 
 describe here ; but, from the nature of the case, you may 
 imagine it was an affecting one. And peculiarly so, as 
 my friends had been informed some time before, that I 
 had died in prison. They had had prayers offered up, 
 according to the custom of the, times, and the family had 
 gone into mourning. They, therefore, felt as if they had 
 received me from the dead. The officers had carried the 
 news of our return, and our friends had ridden all night 
 to meet us. We proceeded on our way, and ere the 
 shades of evening closed around us, we were once more 
 in the bosom of friends, and enjoying the society of 
 those we loved, and the sweets of home. And may my 
 heart ever rise in gratitude to that Being whose pre- 
 
- ^ 
 
 *^^ 
 
 OB.CE CHURCH. BROADWAY, 
 
74 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 serving care has been over me, and has never forsaken 
 me." 
 
 Levi Hanford continued in frequent and active service 
 to the close of the war. 
 
 Walton House, No. 326 Pearl street, is perhaps the 
 most remarkable relic of the antique to be found in the 
 city of New York. It is even at the present day curious 
 for its architectural pretensions ; and presents a striking 
 contrast with its cotemporary Dutch buildings. This 
 celebrated mansion was erected in 1754, by William 
 Walton, a rich English merchant. It was bequeathed by 
 the founder, who died a bachelor, to his nephew William, 
 who was one of the King's or Governor's Council before 
 the Revolution. It is built of bricks imported from Hol- 
 land, and ornamented by brown stone water-tables, lin- 
 tels and jambs. This stately edifice is well worthy of a 
 visit by those who have any antiquarian- taste. The 
 ample hall and staircase, which exhibit fine specimens of 
 carving, are especially worthy of note. It had five win- 
 dows in front, and has balustrades, and roofed with tiles. 
 Formerly the gardens and grounds extended to the river. 
 If these venerable walls had tongues, they would rehearse 
 to us many a touching tale of the past — of hospitalities 
 indulged here with lavish, almost princely munificence, 
 during the quiet time of colonial dependence — of many a 
 gay and festive scene, in which gallantry did homage to 
 beauty and genius, or of riotous carousing and midnight 
 mirth of military officers from across the main^ who were 
 not a httle astonished to find a reception so generous, in 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 75 
 
 a country they had supposed scarcely more than semi- 
 civilized. It is said that the opulent display exhibited 
 by the Waltons, originated the Revolutionary war — 
 taking it for granted that the colonies possessed other 
 merchants equally wealthy, those British officers on their 
 return home made such extravagant representations, that 
 it was deemed expedient to levy taxes upon these "un- 
 titled princes,'' as they were styled. 
 
 General Washington's mansion, situated at the north- 
 ern angle of Franklin square. Pearl street, is till extant, 
 although it has suffered from the mutations of time. 
 Here, the G-eneral was accustomed to hold his state 
 leveeSj and here he lived in almost aristocratic style. 
 The reception toom is now metamorphosed into the 
 music store of Firth & Hall — but the other apartments, 
 including the old dining-room, are for the most part pre- 
 served in all their integrity. Like the Walton house ad- 
 jacent, the edifice is massive and capacious, ornamented 
 with bold carving — pannelled walls, and other antique 
 decorations. One of the original guns which formerly 
 surmounted the side gate of entrance, may yet be seen ; 
 also the old pear tree, planted, it is said, by Washington's 
 own hand. The house was, in the time of Washington, 
 of considerable pretensions, but modern taste has thrown 
 it into the shade; it is yet an object of interest from its 
 historic associations. Washington's career has been so 
 thoroughly scrutinized, and his phase^ of character por- 
 trayed with so much analytical skill, that it would be 
 superogatory here, to refer to the subject ; yet, as illustra- 
 
76 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 tive of his punctuality, we may be pardoned instancing 
 the following little incident which occurred at this, his 
 residence at the time. Washington avowed himself the 
 soldier's friend, after the war had terminated, and he well 
 deserved the epithet. The General was one day met by 
 Lieut. Leaycraft, a brave officer of the Continental army, 
 who .solicited a letter of recommendation for an ap- 
 pointment to the command of a vessel about going on a 
 cruise. Washington replied he would comply with his 
 request at any time he desired. Leaycraft proposed to 
 wait upon him at his house by the light of the morning 
 star; "agreed," said the General, and at the appointed 
 time, the applicant made his appearance, was admitted, 
 and ushered into the presence of Washington, whom he | 
 found seated, with two wax candles, in his little office, ^ 
 with the letter just written, and which he promptly 
 handed to the lieutenant. This illustrates punctuality of 
 the exactest kind, for which, perhaps, few parallels are to 
 be found. 
 
 The old Brewery, at the Five Points, recently taken 
 down, is deserving of some notice. Its purlieus are 
 those of wretchedness and crime ; they have been fitly 
 described as " an exhibition of poverty without a par- 
 allel — a scene of degradation too appalling to be believed, 
 and too shocking to be disclosed, where you find crime 
 without punishment, — disgrace without shame — sin with- 
 out compunction — and death without hope." 
 
 This remnant of wretchedness — this plague-spot of the 
 city, was,, previous to its demolition, illuminated for sev- 
 
i 
 
 HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 77 
 
 eral evenings for the inspection of those desirous of sur- 
 veying a scene so notorious and loathsome. Vast num- 
 bers visited it ; but a new phase is happily now to be 
 given to ^che locale, by the establishment of a missionary 
 station, under the auspices of the "Ladies' Home Mission- 
 ary Society.'' 
 
 The building now erected on the site of the Brewery, 
 is four stories in height, 75 by 40 feet, at a cost of about 
 $20,000. This, with the cost of the ground and old 
 building, will make the aggregate expenses about $86,000. 
 
 The Old German Lutheran Church was erected 1766 ; 
 it was a quaint looking edifice, and stood at the junction 
 of Frankfort and William streets. It was used for a hos- 
 pital during the war, and in the neighborhood of the 
 swamp adjacent, the poor Grermans were buried. The 
 site is now occupid by a large hotel. 
 
 There once stood in Gold street, raid-way between 
 John and Fulton streets, on the west side, an antique 
 looking building, known as the Baptist Meeting House. 
 It was erected 1760 — and was used for barracks. It 
 was removed a dozen years ago. 
 
 The Methodist Church, in John street, nearly facing 
 Dutch street, is another object of antiquarian interest. 
 The edifice is still extant. 
 
 Governor Stuyvesant's house was built of small yellow 
 brick imported from Holland, and stood upon his "Bow- 
 erie Farm," a little south of the present St. Mark's 
 Church, between the Second and Third Avenues. 
 
 A pear-tree, imported from Holland in 1647, by Stuy- 
 
78 
 
 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 vesant, and planted in his garden, yet flourishes on the 
 corner of Thirteenth street and Third Avenue, the only 
 living relic of the vegetable world, which preserves the 
 
 memory of the renown- 
 ed Dutch Governor. This 
 patriarchal tree is two 
 hundred and five years 
 of age, standing in the 
 midst of strangers, crown- 
 ed with the honors of age, 
 and clustered with won- 
 derful associations. An 
 \]\^ rpi iron raiUng protects it, 
 
 __ . _ . , -7 and it may survive a cen- 
 ---^!4g^^ - — -f^m-y longer. 
 
 Governor Stuyvesant retired from active life after the 
 surrender to the English, and Hved in quiet dignity 
 upon his " Bowerie Estate" during the remainder of his 
 life, where, with his little family, he enjoyed the repose 
 of agricultural pursuits, within sight of the smoke of the 
 city, which curled above the tree-tops along the " Bow- 
 erie Lane." Upon his farm (on the site of the present' 
 church of St. Mark's,) he built a chapel at his own ex- 
 pense, and dedicated it to the worship of God according 
 to the rituals of the Reformed Dutch Church. He hved 
 eighteen years after the change in the government, and 
 at his death was buried in his vault within the chapel. 
 Over his remains was placed a slab (which may yet be 
 seen in the eastern wall of St. Mark's,) with the foPow- 
 
HISTORIC LOCALITIES. 79 
 
 ing inscription : " In this vault lies buried Petrus Stuyve- 
 sant, late Captain-G-eneral and (Jbmmander-in-Chief of 
 Amsterdam, in New Netherlands, now called New York, 
 and the Dutch West India Islands, Died in August, 
 A. D., 1682, aged Eighty years.'' 
 
 At the corner of Charlton and Varick streets, stood a 
 wooden building, formerly of considerable celebrity, 
 known as the " Richmond Hill House." It has had 
 many distinguished occupants, having been successively 
 the residence of G-eneral Washington, John Adams and 
 Aaron Burr. It has been the scene of great festivities. 
 Baron Steuben, Chancellor Livingston, and numerou? 
 other notable men of their times having met within it? 
 walls. It was then a suburban residence, splendid in 
 all its appointments, and an object of general attraction. 
 It stood on an eminence which overlooked the East and 
 North rivers, and was surrounded with a large park. If 
 was built upwards of seventy years,, ago, by a gallant 
 British officer, who had done good service to his native 
 country and to this. Here Lord Amherst was entertain- 
 ed, and here he held his head-quarters. 
 
 " Each cliff and headland, and green promontory, < 
 
 Graven with records of the past, 
 Excites to Uero-worsliip. * * * 
 Who would not land on each, and Iread the ground — " 
 
PERSONAH REMINISCENCES. 
 
 AT a low wooden building in Broadway, where now 
 towers a tall brick pile, opposite the site of the old 
 City Hotel, lived Huggins, the barber. This was literally 
 the head-quarters of fashion, and fortune, as usual, follow- 
 ed in the train of fashion. But Huggins had a soul that 
 scorned to confine its genius to the external decoration 
 of his customers' heads. He panted after wider fame; he 
 had cut Washington Irving's hair, he had shaved 
 Anacreon Moore, when he was here, and Joel Bar- 
 low, on his first return from France ; from these he 
 caught the strong contagion of authorship. One day 
 he wrote a long advertisement, in which he ranged 
 from his own shop in Broadway to high and bold satire 
 upon those who held the helm of state at Washington, 
 mimicked Jefferson's style, and cracked some good- 
 humored jokes upon Griles and Randolph. He carried it 
 to the Evening Post. The editor, the late Mr. Coleman, 
 was a man of taste as well as a keen pohtician. He pruned 
 off Huggins's exuberances, corrected his English, threw 
 In a few pungent sarcasms of his own, and printed it. 
 
 It had forthwith a run through all the papers on the 
 Federal side of the question in the United States, and as 
 many of the others as could rehsh a good joke, though at 
 the expense ef their own party. The name of Huggins 
 became known from Maine to Georgia. Huggins tried a 
 second advertisement of the same sort, a third, a fourth, 
 
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. 81 
 
 with equal success. His fame as a wit was now estab- 
 lished ; business flowed in upon him in full and unebbing 
 tide. Wits and would-be wits, fashionables and would- 
 be fashionables, thronged his shop ; strangers from north 
 to south had their heads cropped, and their chins scraped 
 by him, for the sake of saying on their return home, that 
 they had seen Huggins ; whilst, during the party-giving 
 season, he was under orders from the ladies every day and 
 hour for three weeks ahead. But alas, unhappy man ! 
 he had now a hterary reputation to support, and his in- 
 vention, hvely and sparkHng as it had been at first, soon 
 began to run dry. Mr Coleman was too deeply engaged 
 in the daily discussion of grave topics to continue his 
 help, — he was therefore obliged to tax his friends and 
 patrons for literary assistance. Huggins became as fond 
 and proud of these contributions as if he had written 
 them all himself, and at last collected them and printed 
 them together in one goodly volume, entitled, Huggin- 
 iana. He was now an author in all the forms. Luckless 
 author ! His " vaulting ambition overleaped itself." He 
 sent a copy of his book to the Edinburgh Review, then 
 in the zenith of its glory, and the receipt was never ac- 
 knowledged. Then the town critics assailed him, and 
 that " most dehcate monster," the public, who had 
 laughed at every piece, good, bad, or indifferent, singly 
 in succession, now that the whole was collected, became 
 fastidious, and at the instigation of the critics aforesaid 
 pronounced the book to be " low." His razor and scissors 
 lost their edge, his napkins and aprons their lustrous 
 
83 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 whiteness, and his conversation its soft spirit and vivacity. 
 His affairs all went wrong thenceforward, and whatever 
 might have been the immediate cause of his deatli, which 
 took place a year or two after, the real and efficient rea- 
 son was undoubtedly mortified literary pride. 
 
 Some of the most noted eccentricities of the city in 
 olden times, are thus humorously sketched by President 
 Duer, in his " Address before the St. Nicholas Society." 
 
 " The first of these was Mynheer Wilhem Hqffmeister^ 
 a Gi-erman by birth, and a musician by trade, commonly 
 .known among the boys, as ' Billy, the Fiddler,' from the 
 instrument by which he now gained his livelihood, al- 
 though he had commenced hfe as a drummer in the 
 army. He was not four feet high ; yet he was not a 
 dwarf, for his proportions were symmetrical, and all but 
 his visage had ceased growing older at about his eighth 
 year. But in the costume of the day, in his knee-breeches, 
 jack-boots, cocked-hat, and queue, he looked more Hke a 
 monkey than a man, and had his tail been in the right 
 place, the resemblance would have been perfect.'' 
 
 By way of set-off to this miniature specimen of hu- 
 manity, our city boasted the ample dimensions of " Sim- 
 mons, the tavern keeper." He kept the house at the 
 corner of Wall and Nassau streets, adjoining the old City 
 Hall, much frequented by the lower retainers of the law. 
 
 I do not remember the weight of this great man ; but 
 he exceeded Falstaflf in size, though I never heard that 
 he equalled him in humor. In one respect certainly, he 
 had more wit, for he sold his hquor instead of drinking 
 
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. SS 
 
 it, and ran up scores against others instead of himself.. 
 In locomotion, however, the fat knight excelled our cum- 
 brous host, who seldom traveled farther than from his 
 seat in the window to that on his front stoep, and never 
 ventured to ascend a staircase. In summer, he filled the 
 whole bench on the stoep, and in winter, the whole of 
 one front window; at his death, the .pier beiween the 
 two was broken away to "let the coffin pass;" and if a 
 huger mass of mortality was rarely returned to its mother 
 earth, the grave is said as seldom to have closed upon 
 the remains of a more honest, inoffensive man. 
 
 The last, not least, on the list of eccentricities, was 
 Gardiner Baker, keeper of the Museum. Little he was, 
 and '• little'' was he called. 
 
 He kept his curiosity shop in the upper story of the 
 old Exchange, a brick building standing upon arches in 
 the centre of Broad, below Great Dock street. Here our 
 merchants once used to congregate ; but, at the period 
 in question, the space under the arcade had been con- 
 verted into a market of a different description, when, in- 
 stead of uncurrent notes or fancy stocks, the more sub- 
 stantial articles of beef and mutton were bought and 
 sold. The upper part of the edifice had formerly been 
 appropriated to the sittings of the Legislature ; but now, 
 it was the depository of greater natural curiosities than 
 any before assembled there. 
 
 The good little fellow was a collector of curiosities, 
 and was himself a greater curiosity than any in his col- 
 lection. Not only were his person and manners singular, 
 
84 NEW YORK IN A NVT-SHELL 
 
 but so were his address and convefsation ; and ihe eX-* 
 periments he made upon the vernacular tongue were not 
 less cruel than ludicrous. He had been bitten, too, by a 
 mad antiquary, and the unction with which he would 
 descant upon some dilapidated, vestige of local interest* 
 exceeded that of a monk in exhibiting an undoubted 
 relic, or recounting some miraculous, but well-attested 
 legend. How he would luxuriate in describing, from one 
 of the windows of his repository, the former course of 
 the creek down Broad street, under which it still ran, and 
 pointing out the old ferry-house at the corner of G-arden 
 street, with the pettiauger-shaped vane on its gable ! 
 
 Every body has doubtless heard of Grant Thorburn, for 
 he has been assiduously engaged in presenting his autobi- 
 ography to the public in more forms than one, and if he 
 is found occasionally rambhng, and somewhat garru- 
 lous, his narrative is not uninteresting. This notable 
 octogenarian is still living in New York, and is not 
 unfrequently to be seen quietly meandering along the 
 streets of the city, or lingering in the neighborhood of 
 some of his old favorite haunts, liolding a colloquy with 
 some patient passer-by. 
 
 The names of George Fox, the celebrated Quaker, and 
 Whitefield, the no less renowned Methodist preacher, are 
 deservedly remembered in connection with the history 
 of the city. There is an old tree in the Flatbush road, 
 which is pointed out as that under which Fox was ac- 
 customed to preach ; and at the Tract Society House, is 
 the portable pulpit which this remarkable man used tor his 
 
m^ 
 
 mm^' 
 
 0^ 
 
86 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 field-preaching. It is about six feet high, nearly square 
 at the top, and is a light framework of hard wood ; so as 
 to be easily removed from one place to another, and sta- 
 tioned in the open air. It is easily put in compact form 
 by the operation of hinges, and is held by iron hooks. 
 It was sent here by Rev. George C. Smith, of England. 
 
 In another part of the Tract Society's building is the 
 chair once occupied by the " Dairyman's Daughter."* 
 
 Baron de Steuben, sent out by Frederick the Great, 
 whose aid-de-camp he was, to improve the organization 
 of our army, of which he was appointed by Congress, 
 Inspector-General, once lived in New York. 
 
 Another name noteworthy, is that of M. de Warville, 
 who subsequently became known and celebrated as Citi- 
 zen Brissot, the leader of the Girondists. It was some 
 years before the French Revolution that he visited this 
 country, but he predicted that event with great accuracy, 
 and on his return home, contributed materially to the ful- 
 filment of his prophecy. 
 
 Cobbett kept his seed store at 62 Fulton street. His 
 farm was at Hempstead, Long Island. 
 
 Lindley Murray was a tall, handsome man, and was, 
 like his father, a Quaker. Aaron Burr once lived 
 at the corner of Cedar and Nassau streets, and, after 
 he held the ofl&.ce of Vice-President, at the corner of 
 Pine and Nassau. Burr has been characterized as a 
 man bankrupt in morals, and no less delinquent as to his 
 pecuniary obligations. Burr was a singularly good look- 
 
 * Vide Richmond's " Annals of the Poor.-' 
 
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. 87 
 
 mg man, below the medium statue, and of very fascina- 
 ting manners. General Moreau, whose name is familiar 
 to the reader of our Revolutionary history, resided at No. 
 82 Warren street. He kept his establishment in very 
 splendid style. The notorious Tom Paine, lived ^t the 
 corner of Thames and Temple streets, in rear of where 
 once stood the City Hotel (which establishment, prior to 
 the erection of the Astor, was the finest hotel in the 
 city.) Had Paine never written that illogical yet seduc- 
 tive book, " The Age of Reason," he would not have ex- 
 erted so wide-spread and pernicious an influence upon 
 society. He died at Greenwich. 
 
 Among the many briUiant entertainments given at the 
 City Hotel, was one in honor of Lafayette's last visit to 
 the United States, all the elite of the day were present. 
 There was also a grand dress-ball given to the General at 
 Tammany Hall, on the same occasion. It was there the 
 somewhat notorious Fanny Wright (of deistical memory,) 
 succeeded, by her gaudy apparel and free French man- 
 ners, in monopolizing the attentions of Lafayette. 
 
 Thorburn ingeniously accounted for the prolific growth 
 of Che Boot and Shoe business in this city, that Noah 
 Gardiner, the first man sent to prison for forgery, was by 
 trade a shoemaker. In his confinement he followed his 
 craft, and thus introduced to the prison, this branch of 
 trade, which has since been so much in vogue as a branch 
 of prison discipline. It is true that we have a superabun- 
 dance of boots and shoes in the city, but their purveyors 
 very shrewdly have them made in such a way, as to en- 
 
88 NEW YORK IIS A NUT-SHELL 
 
 dure but little wear and tear, so that the demand for them 
 is commensurate with the supply. 
 
 Grrant Thorburn's celebrated seed store, which was one 
 of the notable objects of the city, in its time, was in 
 Liberty street, between Nassau and Broadway, and 
 occupied as large a space as the present establishment 
 in John street. His store was, in fact, the old Quaker 
 Meeting-house, the first that that society had erected 
 in the city. He took away the pulpit and the galleries, 
 he had consequently plenty of room above and below, 
 and he plentifully garnished his walls and shelves with 
 birds and flowers. Joseph Bonaparte once visited his 
 store, in company with a French merchant of the city ; 
 and it was fortunate for Mr. T. that the third party 
 was conversant with two languages, otherwise, a very 
 dainty coraphment would have been lost upon Thorburn, 
 for Bonaparte confessed that he had not seen so com- 
 plete an establishment of its kind in all Europe. 
 
 Louis Napoleon — the present emperor of the French, 
 has been not only a resident of this city, but of its jail. 
 He lodged in a house in Reade street, near Broadway, 
 and left behind him, according to reports, anything but 
 the " odor of sanctity." 
 
 On the site of the present Metropolitan Hotel, once 
 lived the wily diplomatist — Talleyrand, when ambassa- 
 dor to the United States. He published a small tract 
 on AmeriL*a, once much read; he it was who affirmed 
 that the greatest sight he had ever beheld in this coun- 
 try, was the illustrious Hamilton, with his pile of books 
 
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. 89 
 
 under his arm, proceeding to the Court-room in the old 
 City Hall, in order to obtain a livehhood, by expounding 
 the law, and vindicating the rights of his client. 
 
 James Rivington, from London, opened a bookstore in 
 1761, near the foot of Wall street, from which his " Royal 
 Gazetteer,'' was published in April, 1773. 
 
 Gaine's " New York Mercury," in Hanover Square, 
 was established in 1752 ; Holt's " New York Journal," in 
 Dock (Pearl) street, near Wall, commenced in 1776; and 
 Anderson's " Constitutional Gazette,'' a very small sheet, 
 published for a few months in 1775, at Beekman's Slip. 
 
 Gaine kept a bookstore under the sign of the Bible and 
 Crown, at Hanover Square, for forty years. Among other 
 early publishers and booksellers, may be named, Evert 
 Duyekiuck, who lived at the corner of Pearl street and 
 Old Slip. He dealt mostly in school and devotional 
 works. 
 
 William Barlas, of Maiden Lane, was himself an excellent 
 scholar, — a charge of which some of the craft in the pre- 
 sent day, are altogether innocent. He published clas- 
 sical books. He was the friend and correspondent of 
 Newton — Cowper's friend. Irving, Paulding, Bryant, 
 and Anthon were among his editors and patrons. 
 
 Eastburn is another name to be included in the cate- 
 gory. This worthy bibliopole first re-printed the British 
 Reviews — no mean proof of his good taste and critical 
 acumen. 
 
 But first among newspaper publishers, in point of time, 
 hved William Bradford, of Philadelphia. 
 
90 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 Dr. Francis has presented us with some vivid portraits 
 of by-gone hterary celebrities : they are gems of their 
 kind, although we fear they will here suffer somewhat 
 by the "setting." 
 
 Speaking of JTathaniel Carter, he says, " he had very 
 considerable literary taste; was many years editor of the 
 New York Statesman; and after his visit in Europe, 
 published his letters on his tour in two large volumes. 
 His merit was only equalled by his modesty. He was 
 strongly devoted to Dewitt Clinton and the Erie Canal; 
 with becoming feeling he cherished much regard for his 
 Eastern brethern, and was the first, I think, who intro- 
 duced his personal friend, our constitutional expositor, 
 Daniel Webster, to the Bread and Cheese Lunch, founded 
 by J". Fennimore Cooper; where sometimes met, in fa- 
 miliar disquisitions, such minds as those of Chief Justice 
 Jones, P. A. Jay, Henry Storrs, Prof Renwick, John An- 
 thon, Charles King, John Duer, and others of a like intel- 
 lectual calibre. 
 
 "Were we to dwell upon the excellence of a Gazette ac- 
 cording to its merits, I should have much to say of the 
 Morning Chronicle, a paper established in this city in the 
 year 1802. The leading editor was Dr. Peter Irving, a 
 gentleman of refined address, scholastic attainments, and 
 elegant erudition. It exhibited great power in its edito- 
 rial capacity, and was the vehicle of much literary mat- 
 ter, from the abundance and-ability of its correspondence. 
 If I do not greatly err, in this paper Washington Irving 
 
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. 91 
 
 first appeared as an author, by his series of dramatic 
 criticism, over the signature of Jonathan Old style. 
 
 Many speak of Cheetham as at times holding the pen 
 of Junius, a declaration sustained by many of his political 
 assaults and essays. He possessed a magnificent Library, 
 was a great reader, and studied Burke and Shakspeare 
 more than any other authors. I know nothing against 
 his moral character. 
 
 His death, however, was most remarkable: he had re- 
 moved with his family to a country residence, some three 
 miles from the city, in the summer of 1809. Within a 
 few days after, he exposed himself to malaria, by walking, 
 uncovered by his hat, through the fields, under a burning 
 September sun. He was struck with a complication of 
 ills; fever, congestion of the brain, and great cerebral 
 distress. The malignancy of his disease soon foretold to 
 his physician, Dr. Hosack, the impossibility of his recov- 
 ery. Being at that time a student of medicine, I was re- 
 quested to watch him ; on the second day of his malady, 
 his fever raging higher, he betrayed a disturbed intellect. 
 On the night of the third day, raving mania set in. In- 
 coherently he called his family around him : addressed his 
 sons as to their peculiar avocations for life ; giving advice 
 to one, ever to be temperate in all things: upon another 
 urging the importance of knowledge. After midnight 
 he became much worse, and ungovernable. With her- 
 culean strength he now raised himself from his pijlow : 
 with eyes of meteoric fierceness, he grasped his bed 
 covering, and in a most vehement but rapid articulation, 
 
92 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 exclaimed to his sons, " Bojs, study Bolingbroke for 
 style, and Locke for sentiment." He spoke no more. 
 In a moment life had departed. His funeral was a solemn 
 mourning of his political friends. 
 
 Paine has been referred to — I have often seen him at 
 the different places of residence to which he removed 
 from time to time in the city. Now in Partition street, 
 now in Broome street, &c. His localities were not 
 always the most agreeable : — in Partition streeit, near the 
 market, a portion of his tenement was occupied for the 
 display of wild beasts ; Paine generally sat taking his 
 airing at the lower front windows, the gazed-at of all pas- 
 sers by. Jarvis the painter was often his visitor, and was 
 fortunate enough to secure that inimitable plaister cast -of 
 his head and features, which, at his request, I deposited 
 in the New York Historical Society. While at the work, 
 Jarvis exclaimed, " I shall secure him to a nicety, if I am 
 so fortunate as to get plaister enough for his carbunculated 
 nose." Jarvis thought this bust of Paine his most suc- 
 cessful undertaking as a sculptor. 
 
 I had some personal acquaintance with Cobbett at 
 the time of his last residence in New York. Hazlitt has, 
 in his attractive manner, described him to the life. He 
 was deemed the best talker of his day, and his forcible 
 pen has given- us indubitable proofs of his powers in 
 literary composition. It was not unusual with him to 
 make a morning visit at the printing office at an early 
 hour, to take his seat at the desk, and after some half 
 dozen lines were written, throw off the MSS. with a 
 
PERSONAL REMINISCENCES. 93 
 
 rapidity that engaged eleven compositors at once in set- 
 ting up. Thus a whole sheet of his Register might be 
 completed ere he desisted from his undertaking. I think 
 that in his quickness he surpassed even the lamented 
 William Leggett, of the Evening Post. The circumstance 
 is certainly a psychological fact; and yet may not be 
 deemed more curious than that Priestly should have 
 made his reply to Lind, quite a voluminous pamphlet, in 
 twenty-four hours, or that Hodgkinson, the actor, was 
 able to peruse, crosswise, the entire five columns of a 
 newspaper, and within two hours recite it thus by mem- 
 ory. 
 
 My circle of literary acquaintance was a good deal 
 enl^ged by the coteries I now and then found at Long- 
 worth's, as he was not backward in seizing the opportu- 
 nity of issuing new works, when from their nature they 
 might excite the appetite of the curious. No publication 
 of his so effectually secured this end, as the Salmagundi, 
 in 1807, now sent forth in bi-weekly numbers by young 
 Irving and his friend Paulding. When we are apprised 
 that some few of our middle-aged citizens, who sus- 
 tained the stroke of that literary scimetar so long ago, 
 still survive among us, I think we may argue on strong 
 data for the salubrity of our climate. 
 
 Other names of note connected with the hterary pur- 
 suits of the city might be added, but our hmits forbid 
 particularizing. Col. Stone, of the " Commercial Adver- 
 tiser," William C, Bryant, Fitzgreen Hallock, Feuimore 
 Cooper, Albert Gallatin, and many others might be cited. 
 
MODERN SOCIAL ASPECTS. 
 
 " The -web of our life is of a mingled yarn, good and ill together ; our 
 virtues would be proud if our faults whipped them not, and our crimes 
 would despair if they were not cherished by our virtues/' 
 
 SOCIETY in New York has many phases — it is cos- 
 mopolitan — a conglomerate — an amalgum, composed 
 of all imaginable varieties and shades of character. It is 
 a confluence of many streams, whose waters are ever 
 turbid and confused in their rushing to this great vortex. 
 What incongruous elements are here commingled, -^the 
 rude and the refined, the sordid and the self-sacrificing, 
 the religious and the profane, the learned and the illite- 
 rate, the affluent and the destitute, the thinker and the 
 doer, the virtuous and the ignoble — the young and the 
 aged — all nations, dialects and sympathies — all habits, 
 manners and customs of the civilized globe. 
 
 What teeming masses throng each crowded street, 
 Pressing their eager way with busy feet I 
 What ceaseless turmoil, and what earnest face. 
 Amid the glittering groups the eye may trace ; 
 The homeless beggar, the patrician proud, 
 Here vice and virtue mark the motley crowd. 
 All various elements, commingling, strive 
 For mastery, in the dense city's hive. 
 Its many voices like old ocean's roar. 
 When waves are surging on the pebbly shore ; 
 It? ebb and flow as tireless— naught may stay 
 Th' impetuous tide still rushing on its way. 
 
MODERN SOCIAL ASPECTS. 95 
 
 It is not surprising that such heterogeneous masses 
 should be found to constitute the staple element of city 
 life. Its elements drawn from all quarters of the globe, 
 and in some instances including the very dregs of so- 
 ciety abroad — the refugees of justice — the wonder would 
 rather be that so much of high minded integrity and 
 virtue are still to be found amongst us. It is the 
 abuse of our free institutions that they should be acces- 
 sible alike to all — the good and the bad : it is yet mat- 
 ter of gratulation, that of the multitudes of emigrants — 
 estimated at about 1,000 per diem — with which the city 
 is ever teeming — exhibit an overjvhclming balance on 
 the side of integrity and virtue./ City life everywhere 
 presents protean aspects ; let us take a glance at some 
 of its more striking features; notwithstanding the mixed 
 multitudes that are incessantly thronging its various 
 avenues. There are yet certain localities that exhibit 
 distinct characteristics : first, there is Wall street with 
 its money-changers, bankers and brokers — the Lombard 
 street of the Metropolis. Life in Wall street is a study 
 of itself; here the selfishness and cupidity of man need 
 no interpreter. Hamanizing feelings are ignored, and 
 the liturgy of the exchange is every man for himself, 
 and the god (mammon) for us all. Many mighty pro- 
 jects have their birth under the dome of the Exchange, 
 but few, we fear, are the noble deeds of charity enacted 
 there. Leaving Wall street, we perambulate the serpen- 
 tine windings of Pearl street and parts thereto adjacent — 
 once so redolent of dry-goods and general raerchaats. 
 
96 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 Here we need to maue room for numberless boxes and 
 lumber, everywhere piled upon the side-walk, to the ex- 
 clusion of everything else. Within the last two or three 
 years, the dry-goods merchants have done much towards 
 the architectural improvement of the city, by transfer- 
 ring themselves to the neighborhood of Broad street, 
 Broadway, Courtlandt, Dey and Liberty streets. In the 
 latter street there have been recently erected a large 
 number of beautiful white marble buildings, which are 
 mostly occupied by merchants of this department of 
 trade. Bowen & McNamee, and Stewart's, might be 
 mentioned in the category as pre-eminent instances of 
 opulence and splendor. Stewart, " the merchant prince,'' 
 Dr. Moffatt and Wm. B. Astor, are monopolizing nearly 
 the whole of Broadway, both above ground and under 
 ground.* They are generally reputed to be the richest 
 trio in the city; from two to ten millions. It is 
 estimated that during 1852, in New York, there was ex- 
 pended the sum of fourteen milUons of dollars in the 
 erection of stores, warehouses, hotels, palaces, and hum- 
 bler dwellings.^' 
 
 Pressing our way through the hurrying crowds of 
 
 * The Express, speaking of the ripM growth of New York, says :— 
 •• Another novel feature of the city is the uudMrground buiMing which 
 is going on around us. In some (.arts of the city half as much busi- 
 ness is transacted under ground a-; above it. Two stories downward 
 are lighted from above, and here are at work, in looms exceedingly 
 ■well fitted'Up, all sorts of people on all sorts of jobs. Some of the best 
 •warerooms and salesrooms are below the surface of the earth. The 
 printing of newspapers i- nearly altogether a .subterranean business, 
 and thousands of people, too, live in the first and second basements 
 <^ cellars, and some of them are far into the bowels of the earth." 
 

 
98 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 Nassau street, to its junction with Chatham street, of 
 mock-auction notoriety, we catch a glimpse of another 
 phase of city Hfe. To denizens of New York, society is 
 usually known under the generic divisions of Broadway 
 and Bowery. Each has its distinct idiosyncracies ; the 
 former being regarded as patrician, and the latter as ple- 
 beian. Looking at New York longitudinally, we may 
 say that the City Hall, at present, marks the boundary 
 of the great work-shop, — that its northern suburbs are 
 "outsiders," simply because they could not possibly find 
 a foothold within the limits aforesaid. In the precincts 
 of Union Square to Madison Square, and especially the 
 Fifth Avenue, we find the monuments of the wealth, 
 taste and splendor, which have been coinecJ from the toil- 
 worn brains and hands of the many, who share but little 
 in these opulent results. 
 
 The motto of New York — "•Excelsior^'' is not without 
 its significancy — her achievements transcend those of 
 any other state in the Union, in most of the industrial 
 and useful arts. Especially is this seen in the vast ex- 
 tent of her railroads, telegraphic communications, and 
 maritime and domestic commerce. In railroads and tele- 
 graphs, New York is without a parallel, with perhaps 
 one exception — that of Boston.* 
 
 * There ae, it is esumated, seventy-eight working companies for tel- 
 egraphs in ihe United S-ites, -which altogf'ther pos ess 6,000 miles of 
 wire, more than all the rest of th world beside. On the first of Janu- 
 ary, 18')3, the/e w re in the United States 13.227 miles of completed 
 railroad, 12.92S miles in various stages of progress, and about 7,000 
 miles in th- hands of the engineers, which will be built in the next 
 three or four years— making a total of 33,155 miles of railroad, whicb 
 
MODERN SOCIAL ASPECTS. 99 
 
 ■ The southern part of the city — its original site — ex- 
 hibits all kinds of irregularity — the streets are narrow, 
 sinuous and uneven in their surface ; but the northern 
 or upper portion is laid out in right angles. There are 
 some fifteen fine avenues, at parallel distances apart of 
 about 800 feet. There are about 200 miles of paved 
 streets in the Metropolis, extending to Thirty-fourth 
 street; including projected streets not yet paved, the 
 entire number of streets will be double that. 
 / Perhaps the densest parts of the Metropolis, — its very 
 heart, from whence issues the vitalizing tide of its com- 
 merce, is the junction of Nassau and Fulton streets, and 
 its vicinity. The collision of interests which all the stir 
 and traffic of these crowded scenes involve, brings human 
 nature into strong relief, and intensifies the lights and 
 shades of character. Here man meets man as the com- 
 petent spirit of modern society has made him, a singular 
 compound of virtues and vices, greedy and generous, 
 grasping and liberal, concealing agitation with a smile, 
 and cloaking anxiety with an air of unconcern.^" 
 
 It is in these dusty avenues to wealth — these vestibules 
 where fraud contends with honor for an entrance into 
 the temple, that we read the heart of man better than in 
 
 will poon traverse the country, and which, at an average cost of 
 $80,000 (a well ascertained average) for each mile of road, including 
 equipments, &c,, will have consumed a Gaj;ital amounting to $994,- 
 650,000. During the 3'ear 7852. the total number of vessels entered at 
 the port of New York, according to the report of the United Statea 
 Revenue Department, amounted to 3,822. One hundred and sixteen 
 vessels were launched from the ship-yards during the year. The 
 Dumber of emigrants arrived during the same period is 310,335. 
 
100 NEW YORK IN A NUT- SHELL. 
 
 the vapid platitudes of pastoral romances, whether they 
 are written in poetry or prose. What did the readers 
 of Sydney's 'Arcadia,' or Brown's ' Pastorals ' ever learn 
 of their fellow-beings from those pages ? If we would 
 read human nature, as it is, — and not as poets and en- 
 thusiasts have described it, — we must jostle with the busi- 
 ness of the street, and kindle sparks of thought from fre- 
 quent contact with the rude and unrefined. The porter, 
 bending under his load, the boy, who sweeps the ofiEice 
 and runs on errands, aspiring all the time to be a clerk, 
 the clerk aspiring to be a merchant and his own master, 
 the merchant, calculating his gains, and aspiring to retire 
 from commerce, as a miUionaire— these know more of 
 actual human life, and its " tangled web " of joys and 
 sorrows, hopes and fears, realizations and disappoint- 
 ments, than the poet who writes pastorals like Theccri- 
 tus, or the Naturalist, who, with BufFon, Audubon or 
 White, ranges through the animated fields of earth and 
 air. We do not undervalue these — far from it. They 
 too have done their work, and done it nobly. Whether, 
 in the end, their peaceful pursuits and quiet pleasures 
 shall be more useful to humanity than the speculations 
 of Wall street, and the commerce of Nassau, may admit 
 of doubt. 
 
 There are in New York twenty daily papers, with a 
 circulation of above 200,000, and the yearly value must 
 exceed half a million of dollars. 
 
 The experience of our uninitiated in the intrigues of 
 city life, is thus graphically described : 
 
MODERN SOCIAL ASPECTS. 101 
 
 " I have been one day in New York, and I shall leave it 
 to-morrow. I came to see 'the Elephant;' I have seen 
 only his trunk, and am satisfied. I picked up a dropped 
 pocket-book m Wall street, and lost ten dollars by the 
 operation ; I bought a watch in Broadway for thirty- 
 three dollars, which was not worth five ; I have been 
 knocked down by stages, overset by carriages, insulted 
 by rowdies, and laughed at by everybody. If the ani- 
 mal's irunJc is so large, what must be his body ! I have 
 seen enough. I shall return to-morrow." 
 I There are several hues of railroad in different parts of 
 the city, in addition to the Harlem railroad. There are 
 lines running through the Sixth and Eighth Avenues ; 
 and one through Broadway is in contemplation. 
 
 The incessant noise and din of Broadway, will not be 
 a matter of surprise, when it is remembered that 15,000 
 vehicles pass through that street in a day. Broadway, 
 as we have already intimated, presents more varied as- 
 pects of character than any other spot on the globj) It 
 is a perfect Kaleidoscope, — each day presenting some 
 new feature or change. The great characteristic of New 
 York society is perhaps excitement, — everything is in 
 furore. The opulent grandeur of our merchant 
 princes is an object of especial note to the visitor. 
 There are on each side of the Fifth Avenue sumptuous 
 edifices, some of which may even take rank with the 
 mansions of the British nobility. 
 
 The New York Tribune illustrates the extravagance 
 of the present day by mentioning that the beautiful hard- 
 
102 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 finish ceilings of a house in the city, which have thus 
 far satisfied the most fastidious taste, have been spurned, 
 and the parlors are now finished in Papier Mache of the 
 most costly and beautiful description ! Recently $6,000 
 was paid for a lot upon which to build — a stable! This 
 tendency to ostentatious display is a marked feature 
 of modern New York society, — it permeates through all 
 its gradations, but is flagrantly apparent among the 
 wealthier classes. New York is also noted for its Board- 
 ing establishments and Hotels— they are '• thick as leaves 
 in Yallambrosa." They offer facilities for transcient visi- 
 tors, but for permanent use entail many infelicities. / The 
 Metropolitan is among the latest of the larger class Hotels; 
 another splendid establishment is also erecting in Broad- 
 way, front of Metropolitan Hall. It is of white marble. 
 Their charges are consequently accelerated by their size 
 and the splendor of their appointments — the prices for 
 boarding sometimes ranging from $150 to $300 per week. 
 Stewart's $2,000 shawls and cloaks, embroidered with 
 pearls, may here be seen to deck the dainty figure of 
 fashion, and jewels worth thirty or forty thousand dol- 
 lars to grace her brow : but surely there is nothing in all 
 this inconsistent with " republican simplicity.'y 
 
 New York also presents its dark phase — there are 
 12,000 children in this city, who are as utter heathen as 
 any on the plains of India, who live by petty pilfering, by 
 bold robbery, by acts of incredible debasement and vice. 
 
 There is apparent an incessant struggle for distinction 
 of some kind, no matter what the sphere of life. High- 
 
MODERN SOCIAL ASPECTS. 103 
 
 sounding titles for persons and places are everywhere in 
 vogue. A barber, in New York city, has erected a sign 
 bearing the following words : " George Washington 
 Jones, Physiognomic Operator and Professor of the Ton- 
 sorial Art.'' An oyster cellar is invariably dignified with 
 the epithet Saloon; and speaking of oysters, reminds 
 us of Lord Carlisle's remark, that in no other city of the 
 world had he seen places of refreshment so active — for 
 every one seemed to be eating oysters all the day long. 
 (^The city is lighted (as in olden time) — when the moon 
 is in eclipse — by some 15,000 gas-lamps, and the streets 
 are cleansed at a cost of some 2 to 300,000 dollars by the 
 corporation, on the same alternating principle — with the 
 rain-clouds of heaven. ) 
 
 The municipal government of New York City is, per- 
 haps, the most expensive government in Christendom. 
 Its estimated expenditure for the current fiscal year is 
 about four millions of dollars, which is in addition to the 
 taxation imposed by the Federal and State governments. 
 Perhaps the orowning glory of New York, consists in 
 its admirably conducted system of common school instruc- 
 tion. Unquestionably, nowhere else are the immunities 
 of free education enjoyed so universally. Upwards of 
 two million dollars of the public money, are disbursed 
 for the purposes of public instruction. The Public School 
 Society was originated by De Witt Clinton, and has been 
 in existence, and diffusing its beneficial influence for half 
 a century. 
 
 There are about twenty-five public libraries in the city, 
 
104 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 the aggregate of whose collections exceed 250,000 vol- 
 
 umes, 
 
 An enlightened philanthropy, hand-in-hand with re- 
 ligion, is achieving much for the moral and physical en- 
 dowment of the metropolis, nor are its activities restricted 
 within its own prescribed hmits — they extend to the ut- 
 most boundaries of our wide-spread territory — from the 
 shores of the Atlantic to those of the far-off Pacific ; from 
 the Canadas to Mexico. 
 
 "This city, as the metropolis of such a country, should 
 correspond with it, in the magnitude of its improve- 
 ments. Though yet in its infancy, it has proved 
 itself, in all it has done, not unworthy of the distinction. 
 Pere La Chaise sinks into insignificance when contrasted 
 with the sylvan grandeur of Greenwood. The aqueduct 
 which conveys the Croton River across the Harlem, com- 
 pares well, in the solidity and beauty of its architecture, 
 with the kindred work spanning the valley of Alcantara, 
 or with those magnificent structures, which, after the 
 lapse of two thousand years, though now falling into 
 ruins, still stretch across the Campagna, and by the 
 agency of which, imperial Rome was perpetually refreshed 
 by the pure waters of her distant hills.''t 
 
 * The more important public libraries, are the Astor, the New York 
 Society Library, tiie M rcantile Library Association, the New York His- 
 torical Society, the library of Columbia College, and those of the various 
 literary, scientific, and religious associations of the Metropolis. 
 
 t Dix's Lecture. 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 
 
 THE impetus given to our monetary affairs during the 
 past few years, by the large accessions of the pre- 
 cious metals from the auriferous regions on the Pacific 
 coast, has mainly contributed to the recent architectural 
 improvements of the city. The latest and most imposing 
 instance of the kind is the magnificent structure erecting 
 for the Great Exhibition of the Industry of all Nations, 
 in the vicinity of the Croton Reservoir. 
 
 It is, with the exception of the floor, entirely con- 
 structed of iron and glass. The general idea of the edi- 
 fice is a G-reek cross, surmounted by a dome at the inter- 
 section. Each diametar of the cross will be 365 feet 5 
 inches long. There will be three similar entrances ; one 
 on the Sixth Avenue, one on Fortieth and one on Forty- 
 second street. Each entrance will be 47 feet wide, and 
 that on the Sixth Avenue will be approached by a flight 
 of eight steps; over each front is a large semi-circular 
 fan-light, 41 feet high, answering to the arch of the nave. 
 Each arm of the cross is on the ground plan 149 feet 
 broad. This is divided into a central nave and two 
 aisles, one on each side; the nave 41 feet wide, each 
 aisle 54 feet wide. The central portion or nave is carried 
 up to the hight of 67 feet, and the semi-circular arch by 
 which it is spanned is 41 feet broad. There are thus in 
 
106 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 efifect two arched naves crossing each other at right 
 angles, 41 feet broad, 67 feet high to the crown of the 
 arch, and 365 feet long ; and on each side of these naves 
 is an aisle 54 feet broad, and 45 feet high. The exterior 
 of the ridgeway of the nave is 71 feet. Each aisle is 
 covered by a gallery of its own width, and 24 feet from 
 the floor. The central dome is 100 feet in diameter, 68 
 feet inside from the floor to the spring of the arch, and 
 118 feet to the crown ; and on the outside, with the lan- 
 tern, 149 feet. The exterior angles of the building are 
 ingeniously filled up with a triangular lean-to 24 feet 
 high, which gives the ground plan an octagonal shape, 
 each side or face being 149 feet wide. At each angle 
 is an octagonal tower 8 feet in diameter, and 75 feet 
 high. 
 
 Ten large, and eight winding stair-cases connect the 
 principal floor with the gallery, which opens on the three 
 balconies that are situated over the entrance halls. 
 
 The building contains, on the ground floor, 111,000 
 square .feet of space, and in its galleries, which are 54 
 feet wide, 62,000 square feet more, making a total area 
 of 173,000 square feet for the purpose of exhibition. 
 
 The dome is supported by 24 columns, which go up 
 above the second story to a height of 62 feet above the 
 floor, and support a combination of wrought-iron arches 
 and girders, on which rests a cast-iron bed plate, so con- 
 structed as to receive the 32 ribs of the dome. 
 
 The quantity of iron to be used for the building will 
 amount to about 1,250 tons. The roof will cover an area 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 107 
 
 of 144,000 square feet. The glass for the building will 
 amount to 39,000 square feet, in 9.027 panes, 16 by 34 
 or 38 inches. 
 
 The directors of the Crystal Palace have wisely decided 
 on constructing an extra gallery 250 feet long, and cover- 
 ing an area of 10,000 square feet ; the gallery, which will 
 be constructed of the same materials as the building it- 
 self, will run along the open space between the reservoir 
 and the Palace. The gallery is designed to hold all the 
 machinery in motion, and what other matters are con- 
 sidered too large and cumbrous to be placed in the build- 
 ing itself This will relieve the interior of the Palace 
 from the din and vapor emitted by a number of machines ■ 
 worked by steam, and enable those who have no interest 
 in such things to enjoy the sights in the main building 
 undisturbed. 
 
 Although this splendid structure will be much inferior 
 in its dimensions when compared with the Crystal Palace 
 of Hyde Park, and still less with that now erecting at 
 Sydenham — yet its general effect is imposing and beau- 
 tiful. Having given the details and admeasurements of 
 the building, we need not refer to the countless objects 
 of attractive interest with which its interior is to be gar- 
 nished and enriched, as full descriptions of these are 
 easily accessible. For some time to come — the Crys- 
 tal Palace will be the great crowning object of attrac- 
 tion to all classes — nor will its contiguity with the Cro- 
 ton Aqueduct tend to lessen the interest. Passing down 
 the Fifth Avenue — the most magnificent street on this 
 
108 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 continent, and likely to become the finest perhaps in the 
 world — we reach Madison Square — not long since a rude 
 field — now the centre of the fashion and wealth of the 
 city. There are in various parts of the city, eight open 
 plots or parks, and it is in contemplation to form one of 
 noble dimensions in the upper part of the city, which is 
 to measure 160 acres. 
 
 New York is, however, sadly deficient in Parks — in 
 fact it possesses none deserving the name. London 
 boasts of many — six of which cover an extent of eighteen 
 hundred acres, besides numberless squares of larger area 
 than our Battery^ These are styled the lungs of London, 
 and are amongst the most prominent causes of the supe- 
 rior health and longevity of its inhabitants over ours. 
 Without these safety-valves, to vitalize the dense city 
 with its teeming throngs, and living, at our high-pres- 
 sure rate, the wonder is that we do not suffer collapse 
 sooner than we do. It has been suggested that Madison 
 Square would be an admirable site for the erection of a 
 public conservatory, — somewhat on the plan of the cele- 
 brated gardens at Kew, Kensington and Chelsea, in Lon- 
 don. "We hope the projected scheme may be speedily 
 carried into effect-^-for nothing could be a greater orna- 
 ment to the Metropolis, or afford a more delightful place 
 of resort and promenade for its residents. The cost is 
 computed at the moderate sum of five thousand dollars. 
 How much better would such a building be for Horticul- 
 tural and Horicultural fetes, than the restricted area of 
 a concert room. A general movement is making upward 
 
I 
 
 i 
 
 "^ JiSKl^.:! Sill 
 
 it';- ^^=^ 
 
 „iii;;i!:'':i:ii;;;i 
 
110 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 and northward — old established societies are surrendering 
 their former positions down town, to the eager demands 
 of increasing commerce ; and Broadway itself, which has 
 ever been in process of completion, exhibits now but 
 here and there remnants of its modest aspect in days of 
 yore. Even Columbia College — the most venerable of 
 our seats of learning, is, it is said, soon to bid adieu to 
 the classic shades of Park place, and be translocated to 
 the Hosack Botanic grounds, about three miles north of 
 the city. It has been computed that about 1,800 new 
 edifices — many of them of costly magnificence — are now 
 in process of erection, the value of which, when comple- 
 ted, will be over fifteen millions of dollars. 
 
 Dr. Townsend's residence, corner of 34th street and 
 Fifth Avenue, is to cost, with the grounds, upwards of 
 $200,000. The Union Club contemplate erecting a 
 splendid house, which will be worthy of them and the 
 city, somewhat on the model of the Athenaeum Club of 
 London. 
 
 One of the most noted public beneftictions to the city^ 
 is the bequest of the late Peter Cooper— of $300,000 for 
 the establishment of an institution to be known as the 
 " Union," the object of which is to be the moral, mental, 
 and physical improvement of the youth of the Metropohs. 
 The site selected for the building, is bounded by Astor 
 place, Fourth avenue and Seventh street. This noble 
 institution will doubtless prove one of great benefit in 
 educating public taste and morals, and will be an im- 
 perishable monument to the memory of the donor. The 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. Ill 
 
 establishment will be arranged on the most complete and 
 liberal scale, and will include a conservatory, museum 
 and various scientific apparatus for popular lectures, &c. 
 
 There is no lack of places of entertainment in New 
 York, yet another is about to be added to the list — 
 Franconi's Hippodrome, from Paris — the site proposed is 
 to be in the vicinity of Madison square. 
 
 New York is head-quarters for Lectures, Concerts, 
 Theatrical and all kinds of public entertainments ! The 
 Metropolitan Hall is the most splendid Concert room in 
 the country. The " Broadway" takes the first rank among 
 the theatres, and Barnum's Museum furnishes a medley 
 of marvels for the delectation of the Juveniles. Money 
 is lavishly spent in New York, for entertainment. 
 
 Taylor's Epicurean Palace, corner of FrankUn street 
 and Broadway, is one of the most splendid and imposing 
 edifices of the city. Everything is here on a most 
 superb scale ; the eye is regaled as well as the palate. 
 
 Projects are on foot to widen Beekman street — to 
 extend the Bowery in a direct line to Pearl street, near 
 Franklin square — to connect Canal with Walker street, 
 and widen it to the East river — to run Albany street 
 through in a direct Hne to Broadway — to widen Church 
 street and continue it through to Trinity Place, which is 
 also to be widened and extended to Creenvvich street — 
 to cut Madison street through to Gold, which is to be 
 widened to Maiden Lane — to connect Lafayette Place 
 with Crosby street, and to extend it through in a direct 
 line to Chambers street — to continue South street in a 
 
112 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL 
 
 direct line from Roosevelt street, up to the Hook — to 
 build an exterior street on the Noi^th River, west of West 
 street — to continue Roosevelt street through from Chat- 
 ham to Broadway, and to extend Anthony street directly 
 through to Chatham Square. 
 
 The New Bible House, occupying the square bounded 
 by Third and Fourth avenues, and Eighth and Ninth 
 streets, now just completed, presents a noble specimen 
 of architecture — simple, but solid and substantial. The 
 American Bible Society takes prominent rank among the 
 beneficent and religious institutions of the country. 
 According to the last annual report, the receipts of the 
 Society for 1852, amounted to $308,744; and its annual 
 issue was 221,450 Bibles, and 444,565 Testaments; in 
 all, 666,015 volumes. The total receipts of the Society 
 since its organization, amount to $4,189,285; of which 
 nearly $400,000 has been granted to aid in the publica- 
 tion of the Scriptures at various missionary stations in 
 Foreign lands. During the same period it has issued 
 8,288,082 volumes. This noble institution was organized 
 in 1816. 
 
 The number of Bible Societies in the world is about 
 67, the first of which, the "British and Foreign,'' was 
 instituted in 1804, since which date, the aggregate num- 
 ber of Bibles and Testaments issued, is 40,726,741. The 
 number of languages and dialects into which translations 
 of the Scriptures or parts of them have been made, is not 
 far from two hundred. 
 
 There are two other Bible Societies in this city — the 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 113 
 
 American and Foreign BihJe Society^ formed by the Bap- 
 tists in 1836, and a kindred society which has branched 
 off from it, entitled the American Bible Union, incorpo- 
 rated in 1850— for the purposes of furnishing more faith- 
 ful versions of the Sacred Scriptures. This society is 
 preparing to issue a new revised rendering of the Bible. 
 Its office is 350 Broome street. The Trad Society's 
 building is situated at the junction of Nassau and Spruce 
 streets. About 250 employees are here occupied in the 
 several departments of printing and pubhshing. The 
 total issues per annum, average upwards of a million of 
 volumes, eight millions of tracts — equal to nearly three 
 hundred millions of pages. Its publications are sold at a 
 trifling advance above the cost of produi;tion, and a vast 
 amount of tracts are distributed gratuitously to the poor. 
 Like the Bible House, this establishment is well deserving 
 a visit. 
 
 There are, in addition, the following benevolent societies 
 in the city : the American and Foreign Christian Union, 
 180 Nassau street; the Seamen's Friend Society, 82 
 Wall street, in connection with the Sailors Home, 190 
 Cherry street, and the Mariner^s Family Industrial 
 Society, 322 Pearl street. There are also other benevo- 
 lent institutions for the Sailor ; the Marine Society of 
 New York, chartered in 1770; the Nautical Institution 
 and Ship Master^s Society,* and the Sailor s Snug Harbor, 
 the Sailor s Retreat and Marine Hospital a,tSta.ten Island. 
 
 * It is dcBigncd to provide a fund for the relief of the widowa and 
 orphans of deceased shipmasters. It was organized in 1770, under a 
 
114 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 In addition to the foregoing, there are the New Yo7'k 
 Dsipensatory* situated at the corner of Centre and White 
 streets, originated in 1799; the Northern Dispensatory, 
 corner of Waverley Place and Christopher street, and the 
 Eastern Dispe7isatory, at the corner of Lumber and Essex. 
 
 The New York Orphan Asylum is situated at Bloom- 
 ingdale, near Eightieth street, about five miles from the 
 City Hall. It is a handsome building, 120 feet long by 
 60 feet wide, and connected with about eight acres of 
 ground. 
 
 The College of Physicians and Surgeons of the City 
 of New York is a valuable institution, situated on 
 Crosby street, between Broome and Spring streets. It 
 was founded in 1807. 
 
 The New York Eye Infirmary is in Howard street, near 
 Broadway. It was founded in 1820 ; since which time, 
 upwards of 3000 patients have been under treatment in 
 this institution. 
 
 The College of Pharmacy was established in 1829, and 
 incorporated in 1831. Its object is to prevent, as far as 
 possible, errors in the preparation of medicine. 
 
 The Deaf and Dumb Asylum is located upon a gentle 
 eminence on Fiftieth street, near the Fourth Avenue, 
 three and a half miles from the City Hall. It is surrounded 
 by an extensive plot of ground, a portion of which is 
 
 charter granted by George III. and has distributed to the objects of 
 itschaiity $156,009. 
 
 * The number of patients entered upon the records of this institu- 
 tion since 1790, is 40.835 ; the Northern Dispensatory, 20,680 ; the East- 
 ern, 21,226 ; total, 82 741. 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 115 
 
 employed in cultivation, and part as grounds for the 
 recreation of the pupils. The main building is 110 feet 
 long, 60 broad, and five stories high, surmounted by an 
 observatory commanding an extensive and beautiful 
 prospect. It has usually about 200 receiving beneficiary 
 aid. 
 
 The Institution for the Blind is located on Ninth 
 Avenue, near Thirty-third street, where are 32 lots of 
 land presented to the institution by Jame3 Boorman, Esq. 
 The Legislature, in 1839, appropriated $15,000 towards 
 the erection of the buildings, besides which, considerable 
 donations • have been made by individuals. There is a 
 manufacturing department, where they learh basket 
 making, weaving, etc. There are usually about 150 pupils 
 at the Institution. The building is of granite, in the 
 Gothic style, and is one of the most imposing structures 
 in the city. 
 
 The medical department of the University of the city 
 of New York, though, as a branch of the University, it 
 is under the general control of the University Council, 
 yet, as a medical school, has a distinct organization. 
 
 The New York Hospital in Broadway, opposite Pearl 
 street, was founded as early as 1769, mainly by private 
 munificence; it received its first charter in the year 
 1776 — nine days after the Declaration of Independence. 
 Its systematic activity and efficiency date from 1792. In 
 that year it received 236 patients; and the number has 
 steadily increased until it reached last year a total of 
 3,715. Since 1821, a separate asylum for lunatics 
 
116 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 has been maintained at Bloomingdale, where 3,714 
 patients have been admitted, of whom 1,715 were cured, 
 756 improved, 543 discharged bv request, and 387 died. 
 
 The Neio York Association for Improving the Condition 
 of the Poor, has reheved 25,762 persons, since the first 
 formation of the society. 
 
 The City Alms-house Department, comprising the 
 several establishments known as the Alms-house, City 
 Prisons, Bellevue Hospitals, Penitentiary, Lunatic Asy- 
 lum. Nursery establishments. Potters' Field, Colored 
 Orphan Asylum, &c., are achieving an immense amount 
 of good, in mitigating the evils of poverty, intemperance 
 arid vice. Each of these establishments, especially those 
 of Randall's Island, are eminently worthy of inspection. 
 
 New York is liberally endowed with churches ; pos- 
 sessing about four hundred religious edifices. 
 
 Trinity is the Metropolitan church of New York, it is 
 Cathedral-like in its style, symmetrical and harmonious 
 in its proportions, and also the most lavishly endowed of 
 any in the city. Its history is replete with interest. The 
 first ecclesiastical edifice erected on this site dates as far 
 back as 1696 ; it was originally a small square building, 
 but was enlarged in 1737. The first rector was the Rev. 
 Mr. Vesey, who was the incumbent upwards of half a 
 century. His successor was the Rev. Henry Barclay, 
 father of the late Thomas Barclay, H. B. M. Consul — an 
 office now worthily sustained by his son Anthony Barclay. 
 The first church was destroyed by fire 1776, and rebuilt 
 in 1790. This second edifice was taken down in 1839 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 117 
 
 when the present beautiful structure was erected : it was 
 consecrated in 1846. The surrounding cemetery, and 
 vaults beneath the church, would furnish many interest- 
 ing chapters in the history of the early times of the city. 
 There are many illustrious names associated with the re- 
 cords of Trinity Church, — Bishops Hobart, White, Pro- 
 voost, etc., are well-known among the number. Asso- 
 ciated with Trinity are St. John^s and St. PauVs^ the lat- 
 ter having been built 1766. Washington attended 
 divine service at St. Paul's, after his inauguration. The 
 most notable monuments in Trinity Church-yard are 
 those of Alexander Hamilton, Capt. Lawrence, Lieut. 
 Ludlow, and the beautiful full-length ef^gy of Bishop 
 Hobart. A magnificent panorama of the city and vicin- 
 ity may be seen from the summit of the spire of Trinity 
 Church. Trinity is the only church with a chime of bells 
 in the city: divine service is here held twice a day. 
 Emmet's spiral monument greets the ey§ of the passer- 
 by: it stands in the enclosure of St. Paul's Church-yard. 
 Here is also the monument to the memory of the gallant 
 Montgomery, who fell at the storming of Quebec ; also 
 another to the memory of George Frederick Cooke, the 
 tragedian. 
 
 The church of St. John's, in Hudson Square, is a fine 
 edifice, modelled after St. Martin's, Strand, London. It 
 cost $173,000 ; it was completed in 1807. Trinity Church 
 cost $400,000. 
 
 Canal street, and the vicinity of Lispenard street, to 
 Hudson Square, was originally a dismal swamp ; it was 
 
118 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 only partially filled up in 1808. It is on record that on 
 the proposal of a grant being offered to the associated 
 board of Trinity and St John's^ consisting of upwards of 
 six acres, near the junction of Canal street and Broad- 
 way, it was deemed inexpedient to accept the donation, 
 inasmuch as the land was regarded not worth the fencing 
 in ! The present estates of this corporate body are now 
 exceedingly valuable, and yield an annual interest of 
 over $600,000 ; the property itself is of prodigious value. 
 Grace Church, at the upper part of Broadway, is another 
 conspicuous edifice. It is built of white marble, English 
 gothic in style, and redundant in ornamental embellish- 
 ment. Although the most ambitious in its pretensions, 
 it is not considered equal to many others in the harmony 
 of its pi-oportions and the beauty of its tout ensemhle. 
 The dazzling brilliancy of its stained windows, is one of 
 its principal defects, for its interior presents the opposite 
 of that grand effect which characterizes the venerable 
 Westminster Abbey, and other Cathedrals which Milton 
 describes with — 
 
 Storied windows richly disrht, 
 Sliedding a dim religious light. 
 
 The Fifth Avenue is enriched with many new churches, 
 which evince a much purer style of architecture. The 
 Presbyterian Church, recently erected on the corner of 
 29th street, and those at intermediate distances from it 
 and Tenth street. Fifth Avenue, are instances of this. 
 The Scotch Presbyterian Church, corner of G-rand and 
 Crosby streets, is a stone building, 95 feet long and 67 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 119 
 
 broad, with a fine Ionic portico of six stone columns, 
 and cost $ll-4:,000. The Brick church, corner of Nassau 
 and Beekman streets, built in 1767, is interesting from 
 its antiquity : it has a lofty and well-proportioned steeple. 
 The First Baptist Church, in Broome street, corner of Eliz- 
 abeth street, is a fine stone edifice, of Gothic architecture, 
 from 88 to 110 feet long, and from 75 to 87 feet wide, with 
 two octagon towers on the front corners, and a pointed 
 window between them, 22 feet wide and 41 feet high. 
 The interior is more imposing than the exterior. St. 
 Peter's Roman Catholic Church, in Barclay street, corner 
 of Church, is a large and substantial granite structure, 
 with a very imposing Ionic portico of six granite columns, 
 and a statue of St. Peter in a niche in the pediment. 
 The French Protestant Episcopal Church, corner of 
 Franklin and Church streets, is built of white marble, 
 and has a portico with a double row of fine marble 
 columns of the Ionic order. The Reformed Dutch Church, 
 on Washington Square, is a large and imposing structure 
 of Gothic architecture, and appears well, even by the side 
 of the splendid New York University. St. Patrick's 
 Roman Catholic Cathedral is of stone, 120 feet long and 
 80 feet wide, but is more distinguished for its magnitude 
 than for its elegance. 
 
 The brief limits of the present work forbid any detailed 
 account of tlie nupierous public buildings which now 
 adorn the city : the simple enumeration of the most im- 
 portant is al! that can be given. Of the learned institu- 
 tions, Columbia College takes precedence, in point of 
 
120 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 time. It was chartered under the name of King's Col- 
 lege, in 1750. The University of New York, in Wash- 
 ington Square, was chartered in 1831. It is a noble 
 G-othic edifice, built of marble. Here the K Y. Histori- 
 cal Society have their rooms. This society possesses a 
 choice collection of historical works, which include, 
 among other literary curiosities, sixteen folio volumes of 
 MS. Journals of the House of Commons, in Cromwell's 
 reign, (1650-1675,) said to have been presented by the 
 family of the late Gov. Livingston. The Society Library, 
 in Broadway, corner of Leonard street, was founded in 
 1754. Its collections amount to over 50,000 volumes. 
 The new Astor Library, in Astor Place, is the most 
 splendid establishment of the kind in the country. The 
 building is in the Eomanesque style, and admirably 
 adapted in all its arrangements. The rich and rare lite- 
 rary treasures it contains may challenge competition with 
 most, if not all the great public hbraries of the Old World. 
 Its collections number over 60,000 volumes, including 
 many costly works, collected from all parts of Continent- 
 al Europe. The Mercantile Library Association is an 
 admirable institution, specially designed for the use of 
 young men engaged in mercantile pursuits. It possesses 
 a large assortment of standard works in the several de- 
 partments of literature, together with the current issues 
 of the day. 
 
 There are also various other learned associations, such 
 as the Lyceum of Natural History, established in 1818 ; 
 the Apprentices Library, in Crosby street, with its 15,000 
 

 POLICE COUET— TOMBS. 
 
122 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 volumes ; the Mechanics' Institute, in the City Hall ; the 
 Law Library, in the same building; the Ethnological 
 Society ; the Neiv York Athenaeum; the Literary and 
 Philosophical Society, established in 1814 ; the Rutgers 
 Institute, in Madison, near Clinton street, and the Free 
 Academy, in Twenty-third street, which is a noble 
 institution, endowed by the city, and devoted to the 
 higher branches of classical instruction. Here are a 
 set of casts of the celebrated Elgin marbles, presented to 
 this institution by Mr, Leupp, of New York. The New 
 Yov]^ Typographical Society, instituted in 1809, possess a 
 library, and has an endowed fund devoted to the benefit 
 of widows and orphans of printers. The principal insti- 
 tutions of the Fine Arts are, the National Academy of 
 Design, 663 Broadway, instituted in 1826 ; the N. Y. 
 Gallery of Art, founded in 1844 ; the Society of Water 
 Colors, the American Art Union, &c. The State Ar- 
 senal is a new and elegant structure, in the constellated 
 style ; it is located between the Fifth and Sixth Avenues, 
 and Sixty-fourth and Sixty-sixth streets. Here are to 
 be seen some interesting trophies and relics of Revolu- 
 tionary times. The Halls of Justice, or Tombs, as this 
 prison-house is technically called, occupies an entire 
 block between Centre, Elm, Leonard and Franklin streets. 
 This edifice is one of the few specimens of pure style of 
 architecture in the city — b-^^ing strictly Egyptian. Here 
 are Courts of Justice, Coroner's ofl&ce, Police courts, &c. 
 The jail contains about 150 cells. The massive style of 
 its architecture, imparts to this building an aspect of 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 123 
 
 sombre gloom that fitly comports with its interior char- 
 acter, and the associations of sadness and doom which 
 cling about its very walls. If .the erection of a prison, as 
 has been affirmed, indicates civilization, New York cer- 
 tainly ought to claim high moral advancement, for this 
 mammoth edifice is not the only one devoted to the cor- 
 rection of oSenders. The Hall of Records, north-east of 
 the City Hall, was originally built for and used as a city 
 prison. During the prevalence of the Cholera, in 1832, 
 it was converted into a hospital. Subsequently, it has 
 been remodelled and beautified. It is the depository of 
 the Archives of the city, containing the County Clerk's 
 office, also those of the Surrogate, Street Commissioner, 
 &c. This was the old Provost-jail of New York, where 
 the notorious Cunningham exercised his tyrannical rule 
 over the American prisoners captured at the battles of 
 Long Island, Fort Washington, and elsewhere ; and from 
 its walls that young martyr. Captain Nathan Hale, was 
 led out to execution on the gallows, which stood where 
 Burton's Theatre now is, in Chambers street. 
 
 One of the greatest triumphs of art, in this country, is 
 the Croton Aqueduct. The great work of bringing the 
 waters of the Croton river into the city of New York, 
 was commenced in 1825 ; and the aqueduct and reser- 
 voirs were completed in 1842, at an expense of $12,000,- 
 000. The distance from the Croton to New York is fifty 
 miles. The length of the aqueduct, from the dam to 
 the Harlem river, where it crosses that stream and 
 first reaches Manhattan Island, measures thirty-three 
 
124 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 * 
 miles. To that point, the water flows uninterruptedly 
 
 through a conduit of hydraulic masonwork, seven and a 
 half feet in height, and seven feet in width, with a de- 
 scent of about one foot to the mile. The " High Bridge," 
 the structure across the Harlem river^ is an object well 
 worthy a visit. The water is first seen at the Receiving 
 Reservoir, between the Sixth and Seventh Avenues at 
 Yorkville, and is there exposed to evaporation and quiet 
 for purification. From this vast tank, it is conveyed in 
 a double line of iron pipes, three feet in diameter, under 
 the Fifth Avenue to the Distributing Reservoir at Forty- 
 second street, from which it is sent to all parts of the 
 city through iron pipes of various dimensions laid under 
 the streets. The water is likewise conveyed to Black- 
 well's Island, for the use of the city institutions there, 
 through pipes of gutta-percha. The average supply of 
 water is 30,000,000 of gallons daily. This supply may 
 be increased to 60,000,000. Croton Lake, formed by 
 damming that river for the purpose of the water- works, 
 is created by the dam, 250 feet in length and 38 feet in 
 width at the base, which stretches across the stream.. 
 This checking of the river has produced a beautiful lake, 
 five miles in extent, and covering about 400 acres of 
 land. Its capacity is estimated at 550,000,000 gallons of 
 water, above the level of the aqueduct, and will allow 
 the discharge of 60,000,000 of gallons daily. The office 
 of the Croton Aqueduct Board is in the Rotunda, near the 
 north-east corner of the City Hall Park, On the west 
 side of the Rotunda, stands a fine fire-proof brown stone 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 1Q5 
 
 Duilding, three stories in height, and 105 feet long by 72 
 feet wide, which is occupied by the register of the county, 
 the United States Court, and the Court of Sessions. 
 
 The Novelty Works, foot of Twelfth street, East River, 
 and Morgan Iron Works foot of Ninth street, as well as 
 the Ship Yards, constitute a feature of the city handi- 
 craft and commerce. Each of these establishments are 
 well worthy inspection. In the first named, upwards of 
 twelve hundred men are engaged in the several depart- 
 ments of machinery and iron works. The various fac- 
 tories and foundries occupy an area of five acres. Some 
 of the finest ocean and river steamers have emanated 
 from the Novelty Works and Morgan Iron Works. 
 
 Hoe & Co.'s estabhshment for constructing steam 
 printing-presses, is also an object of interest, as attrac- 
 tive to the intelligent mind as the medley Museum of 
 Barnum. 
 
 The principal markets of the Metropolis, are as follows : 
 the Fulton Market, at the foot of Fulton street, E. R. 
 Washingion Market, in Washington street, corner of Vesey 
 and Fulton streets.* Centre Market,Centre street,between 
 
 * This market, we learn, is to be considerably enlarged. A space of 
 four or five thousand feet is to be taken from the river.and a market, one 
 Btory high, is to be erected on the ground. The work is at presen*^ go- 
 ing on. and nearly one half of the space is already filled in. The re- 
 venue derived by the corporation from the market is very considera- 
 ble, amounting in 1851 to $.34,000. and will bo probably more than that 
 for the year just past. Upwards of 20,000 persons are dependent upon 
 this market for subsistence. Few persons could be brought to believe 
 that during the last year sales wtre effected in this market amounting 
 in the aggregate to the enormous sum of $28,432,000. Of this sum 
 $5,900,000 was realized by the meat trade ; 2,800,000 by the fruit 
 trade; $480,000 the butter trade ; $9,000 honey trade; $648,000 fish 
 trade ; $1,000,000 poultry trade ; $17, 00,000 vegetable trade; $1,000,- 
 ©00 the egg trade; and 815,000 the nut trade. 
 
126 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 Grand and Broome. Clinton Market, between Wash- 
 ington and West streets, and between Spring and Canal 
 streets. Chelsea Market, Ninth Avenue, near Eighteenth 
 street. Essex Market, G-rand street, between Essex and 
 Ludlow. The new Essex Market is an ornament to this 
 portion of the city. It is somewhat of the Italian style 
 of architecture. Its cost is said to have exceeded 
 $50,000. 
 
 The Citij Hall, built of white marble, is an imposing 
 structure. It is somewhat in the Lombardo-Venitian 
 style of architecture. Here are the various municipal 
 offices — the Mayor's Office, Governor's Room, Courts of 
 Common Council, Aldermen, &c. The Governor's room 
 is adorned with a series of portraits of historical person- 
 ages connected with the records of the city. Here is to 
 be seen Washington's chair, also his writing desk, upon 
 which he penned his first message to Congress. The 
 Aldermen's room is furnished with the chairs used by the 
 first Congress, and the one occupied by the Mayor is that 
 in which the first President of the United States was 
 inaugurated. 
 
 The Park was beyond the limits of the city until 1780, 
 and was called the ''Common," or the " Fields." There 
 miUtary drills were performed ; and upon the " Common," 
 between the " Brick Church" and Broadway (now the 
 lower end of the park), the first brigade of the American 
 army was drawn up to hear the Declaration of Inde- 
 pendence read, on the evening of July 9, 1776. Front- 
 ing the City Hall, is a magnificent fountain, the largest 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 127 
 
 m the country. Its magnificence does not consist in 
 its artistic features ; it is the size and heighth of its central 
 jet; the extreme beauty of its numerous arching jets, 
 when in full play, exhibiting in the sunlight all the gor- 
 geous tints of the rainbow. The jets rise from the flowers 
 of the lotus, or Egyptian water-lily ; the basin is sur- 
 rounded by a white marble rim. This, in turn, is en- 
 circled by a row of flowering shrubs and plants, and 
 evergreens ; and the whole are enclosed within an iron 
 raiUng. 
 
 The building occupied by the Post Office, belongs to 
 the corporation of the Middle Dutch Church, and was 
 their place of worship from the close of the 17th cen- 
 tury until 1844. It is the oldest church edifice no-w 
 remaining in the city. A great part of the wood-work 
 of the steeple, was brought from Holland : the building, 
 itself is of stone. 
 
 When the British first took possession of the city ia 
 1776, they used it as barracks for the soldiers. It was 
 afterwards converted into an hospital; and finally, the 
 pews were removed, and it was made a riding-school. In 
 1790, it was repaired, and again devoted to Divine wor- 
 ship. In 1844. the general government leased it for 
 seven years, for the purposes of the Post Office ; and in 
 1851, a further lease was obtained for fourteen years at 
 $10,000 per annum. 
 
 The Custom House, on the corner of Wall and Nassau 
 streets, is a splendid building, constructed in the Doric 
 order of G-recian architecture. It is built in the most 
 
128 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 substantial manner of white marble, something after the 
 model of the Parthenon at Athens. It occupies the site 
 of the old Federal Hall. The building is 200 feet long, 
 80 feet wide, and 80 feet high. At the southern end, on 
 Wall street, is a portico of eight purely Grecian 
 columns, 5 feet 8 inches in diameter, and 32 feet high ; 
 and on the northern end on Pine street, is a corresponding 
 portico, of similar columns. The front portico is ascended 
 by eighteen marble steps, arxi the rear portico, on Pine 
 street, by only three or four marble steps. It is two lofty 
 stories high above the basement story. The great busi- 
 ness hall is a splendid room, 60 feet in diameter Two- 
 thirds of the entire revenue of the Union is here collected. 
 No other government establishment of the country, is 
 the scene of such large monetary operations. The cost 
 of the building, including the ground, was nearly 
 $200,000,000. 
 
 The Merchants' Exchange covers the whole space 
 between Wall, William, Exchange, and South WiUiam 
 streets. It has a somewhat confined situation, and is seen 
 to less advantage than if it were surrounded by open 
 grounds. It is built in the most substantial form, of blue 
 Quincy granite, and is 200 feet long by 171 to 144 feet 
 wide, 77 feet high to the top of the cornice, and 124 to 
 the top of the dome. The front on Wall street has a 
 recessed portico, of 18 massive G-recian-Ionic columns, 
 38 feet high, and four feet four inches in diameter, each 
 formed from a solid block of stone, and weighing 43 
 tons. It required the best application of the mechanical 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 129 
 
 powers, aided by horses, to raise these enormous masses. 
 Besides numerous other rooms for various purposes, the 
 Exchange, in the centre, is in a circular form, 80 feet ia 
 diameter, with four recesses, making the length and 
 breadth, each 100 feet, the whole 80 feet high, surmounted 
 with a dome, resting in part on eight Corinthian columns 
 of Italian marble, 41 feet high, and lighted by a sky- 
 hght, 25 feet in diameter. On the south side of the roof 
 is a telegraph, which communicates with another on 
 Staten Island ; and an hourly report is sent down from 
 the telegraph to the news-room, for public inspection. 
 This building has been erected in the place of the 
 Exchange, burned in the great fire in 1835. The cost 
 of this building, including the ground, is estimated at 
 $1,800,000. 
 
 We now reach the terminus of our city perambula- 
 tions — the Battery. This section of the city, till within 
 the past dozen years, was the site of many distingue re- 
 sidents. The elite of those times Hved in the houses fac- 
 ing the Battery, which still offers a most delightful pano- 
 ramic view, and even in its present degenerate state, is, 
 in summer-time, the most alluring of promenades. Its 
 stately shade-trees are the most luxuriant in the city, 
 with an exception, those of St. John's Square, Hudson 
 street; — and the cool sea breeze comes to refresh and 
 revivify the feverish pulse of the ennuyee or weary den- 
 izen of the bricken city. 
 
 The Battery is, moreover, classic ground — it has been 
 for nearly a century the place of embarkation and debarka- 
 
130 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 tion. Thousands of fond groups have been severed, as they 
 sighed their sad refrain over these grounds ; and warriors, 
 statesmen and heroes of the Old World and the New, 
 made the same spot their place of rendezvous. Wash- 
 ington, Lafayette, Webster, Clay, Jackson, and in later 
 times, Kossuth, with we know not how many more illus- 
 trious personages, were here welcomed with civic and 
 national honors. One little historical incident, among 
 many others, might here be referred to. When the 
 British troops had retreated from New York, wishing to 
 leave a parting memorial, they hoisted the British colors 
 on the flag-staflf, and afterwards greased the poll. Be- 
 fore their ships, however, had got half down the Bay, 
 a Yankee tar scaled the slippery height, lowered the 
 Union Jack, and in its stead hoisted the Stars and 
 Stripes. 
 
 Casik Garden, or, as it was originally called, Castle 
 Clinton, is an old fort, erected in 1807 ; but after the 
 erection of more eflScient defences for the harbor, it was 
 ceded to the city, and leased for a place of public amuse- 
 ment and resort. Here it was that Jenny Lind first 
 carrolled to the delectation and amazement of some five 
 thousand eager listeners ; and here the annual Fairs and 
 the American Institute are held. The Italian Opera have 
 also used it for a summer Opera house. It is in contem- 
 plation to enlarge the area of the Battery — its present 
 dimensions are upwards of ten acres .; but by the pro- 
 jected improvements, its measurement will be more than 
 
 double that extent. 
 
 5 
 
PUBLIC EDIFICES. 
 
 131 
 
 West street is to be continued down to Castle G-arden, 
 which will become a part of the main land, and the whole 
 Battery is to be carried out on the hne therewith, curv- 
 ing gracefully towards Whitehall, the extension on that 
 extremity bemg two hundred feet. 
 
 The subjoined view of the Battery in its present state, 
 closes our discourse concerning the men and marvels of 
 the good cit}' of Gotham. 
 
BROOKLYN. 
 
 n 'HIS city, the second in importance in the state, dates 
 X back as far as 1636, when its name of Breucklyn 
 (broken land), was first conferred by the Dutch. A 
 general patent of the town of Brooklyn appears to have 
 been granted by Gov. Stuyvesant, in 1657. The first 
 European settler in New Netherlands, was Janse de 
 Eapelje, at Waaloon's Bay (Wallabout). The daughter 
 of this pioneer, was the first white child horn upon Long 
 Island ; she subsequently had a grant of land as a mark 
 of distinction. Successive grants of land were made to 
 various individuals, at almost a nominal value, as will 
 appear from the following : The price paid in 1680, for 
 all the land in and about Bedford, was, " one hundred 
 guilders, in Seawant (Indian money), half a ton of strong 
 beer, two tons of good beer, and three guns," &;c. Land 
 in that vicinity is now selling at from $400 to $800 a 
 lot. In the city of Brooklyn, lots have sold as high as 
 nearly $10,000. Brooklyn, in 1805, was a mere village, 
 with scarcely more than a score of dwellings; now it has 
 a population of 130,000 ; and, during the past year has 
 added to ks numerous fine streets and avenues, 2500 new 
 edifices. ^^ Brooklyn is fitly styled the city of churches; 
 it aboun3s in religious edifices. The most important are 
 the Church of the Holy Trinity, the New Dutch Reformed 
 (Dr. Bethune's), the Pilgrim Church, Grace Church, 
 Plymouth Church, and Dr. Cox's Church. Its pubHc 
 buildings comprise the City Hall, situated on a triangular 
 piece of ground, bounded by Court, Fulton, and Jorale- 
 mon streets. It is constructed of white marble, from the 
 quarries of Westchester, and is in the Ionic style of 
 architecture. It is 162 by 102 feet, and 75 feet in height 
 
134 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 to the top of the cornice, and is surmounted by a cupola, 
 the top of which, from the street, is 153 feet. The inte- 
 rior contains rooms for the various departments of busi- 
 ness connected with the city and county. It cost about 
 $200,000. 
 
 The Brooklyn Hospital and Jail, devoted to moral and 
 physical cure, are situated on the western side of Fort 
 Greene. The Lyceum, in Washington street, corner of 
 Concord, is a fine granite building, with a spacious and 
 commodious lecture room. The City Library contains a 
 large number of valuable literary and scientific works. 
 The Savings Bank is an elegant building, on corner ot 
 Fulton and Concord streets. 
 
 The new Athenagum, corner of Clinton and Atlantic 
 streets, will constitute one of the ornaments of the city. 
 
 The new Market in Fulton Avenue, is also an imposing 
 edifice, and a great public convenience. 
 
 The Atlantic Dock, about a mile below the South 
 Ferry, is a very extensive work, and worthy attention. 
 The company was incorporated in May, 1840, with a 
 capital of $1,000,000 The basin within the piers con- 
 tains 422 acres, with sufficient depth of water for the 
 largest ships. The spacious warehouses adjacent, present 
 a striking effect from the river. 
 
 The United States Navy Yard is situated on the south 
 side of Wallabout Bay, in the northeastern part of Brook- 
 lyn, and occupies about 40 acres of ground, enclosed on 
 the land side by a high wall. There are here two large 
 ship-houses for vessels of the largest class, with work- 
 shops, and every requisite necessary for an extensive 
 naval depot. The United States Naval Lyceum, an in- 
 teresting place, also in the Navy Yard, is a literary 
 institution, formed in 1833, by officers of the navy con- 
 nected with the port.* On the opposite side of the 
 
 * This Lyceum contains an interesting c life ion of CHriosiiies,— 
 geological and mineralogical cabinet^ which have been collect- d from 
 almost every country in the vrholo vrorld, by the naval officers, and 
 
BROOKLYN. 135 
 
 VVallabout, half a mile east of the Navy Yard, is the 
 Marine Hospital, a fine building, erected on a command- 
 ing situation, and surrounded by upwards of 30 acres of 
 well-cultivated ground. At the Wallabout, were sta- 
 tioned the Jersey and other prison-ships of the English 
 during the Revolutionary war, in which it is said 11,500 
 American prisoners perished from the bad air, close con- 
 finement, and ill-treatment. In 1808, the bones of the 
 sufferers, which had been washed out from the bank 
 where they had been buried, were collected, and de- 
 posited in 13 coffins, inscribed with the names of the 13 
 original states, and placed in a vault beneath a wooden 
 building, erected for the purpose in Hudson Avenue, op- 
 posite Front street, near the Navy Yard.* 
 
 presented to the institution. Added to the above, there are superior 
 portraits of a number of our Presidents, and Naval and Military Com- 
 manders who have been conspicuous in the most thrilling and inter- 
 esting events chronicled in the history of our country. There is also 
 a valuable library of several thousand volumes : antiquilit'.«, such as 
 an idol from the ruins of the Temple of the Sun, S. A. ; a stone from 
 the House of Herod at Jerusalem ; an Egyptian tombstone, supposed 
 to be four thousand years old ; Egyptian mummy, partly uucovered; 
 specimens of Mosaic pavement, from Pompeii; Lava, from Hcrcuia- 
 neum : Jnr. from the tomb of Augustus Caesar ; Links of the chain 
 that was placed across the Hudson River, in the war of the Revolu- 
 tion ; Implements of Indian warfare; Trophies of war ; and various 
 other objects of interest. 
 
 * The Tomb is on a triangular piece of ground, which is some twelve 
 feet higher than the street. "The vault, which is about fifteen feet high, 
 occupies almost the entire lot. A frame building adjoins the ground on 
 one side, and the wall of the Navy Yard runs along the rear of it. There 
 was formerly an entrance to the ground from the street, but it is now 
 closed up with a rough stone wall, on the top of which is a wooden fence. 
 This, however, did not prevent persons pnssing along the street from see- 
 ing the buildmg and the inscriptions, which we have carefully copied, 
 
 1 he ante-chamber to the Tomb is a small wooden building, on ihe top 
 of which is a carved eagle, resting on a ball, miderneath which is a 
 pedestal, with inscriptions on three sides, the one on the front running 
 thus : 
 
 "In 1778, the Confbderation 
 
 thirteen British colonies proclaimed as 
 
 UNITED STATES 
 
 in separate sovereignly. 
 
 [Here follows the motto, in a scroll,] 
 
136 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 The United States Dry Dock is the leading object of 
 interest at the "Navy Yard. It is a stupendous piece of 
 masonry work, the finest, with the single exception of 
 the Croton works, in America. Its entire cost, we 
 believe, was nearly three millions. It will hold 600,000 
 cubic feet of water. There are usually some ships of 
 
 E PLURIBUS UNUM. 
 
 In 1789 our Grand National Convention ordained 
 
 ONE ENTIRE S0V)i:RE1GN l Y, 
 
 in strict adhesion to the equally sacred 
 
 STATE RIGHIS. 
 
 Such a REPUBLIC must endure forever." 
 
 On the front of the main buildmg is this inscription : 
 
 "The Ante-Chamber to the vault, in which will be arranged the busts 
 or other poriraits insignia of the most distinguished military men and 
 civilians oi the Revolution. 
 
 *' The Governors and Legislators of the old thirteen states will confer a 
 great favor by their selecting and sending them to No. 21 Hudson street, 
 city of New York. 
 
 " In 1803, after thirty years neglect, the corner stone of this Tomb was 
 laid by the present owner, as Grand Sachem of Tammany Society. In 
 the same year, from the great collection of bleached bones of the Martyrs 
 to our Independence, thirteen coffins were filled and interred in the 
 Tomb, in great display of military and civic procession, from the cities 
 of New York anj Brooklyn. It was said that full fifteen thousand attend- 
 ants, without distinction of party, were present." 
 
 The above is the only inscription on the main building, but on the little 
 pedestal on the top of it, on the right side, or over the entrance to the 
 tomb, is ihe following epecimen of grandiloquence : 
 
 " In the city of New York. 1789. WASHING i ON began the first Presi- 
 dential career. The wide-spread EAGLE of UNION waited the order, 
 then instantly raised his flight in the heavens, and like the orb of day, 
 speedily became visible to half the globe." 
 
 On die opposite or left side, is this : 
 
 "The constitution of the United States consists of two parts— the sii- 
 preme sovereignty, and the unadulterated state rights— one and indivi- 
 sible. ( 
 
 "These have no parallel, except the sacred decalogue by Moses. Our 
 duties to God and Man one and indivisible." 
 
 A small tree bends its branches over the tomb, and at a short distance 
 from it are the remains of a weeping willow. The railing which once 
 protected rhe buiUling has also decayed or been destroyed by vile hands— 
 the only part remaining has on it the names of Maryland, North Carolina, 
 South Carohna and Georgia— being only five representativeo of the origi- 
 nal thirteen slates. 
 
 Any one wishing to view tjie Tombs of the Martyrs can reach the place 
 in a few minutes, by taking the ferry boats at Governeur street, and 
 proceeding a short distance up Hudson Avenue, the landing on the Brook' 
 lyn side. 
 
BROOKLYN. 137 
 
 war lying in the Bay, and under process of repairing, to be 
 seen in the Navy Yard, besides sundry and divers things 
 of interest, too numerous to be mentioned here in detail. 
 It is said Brooklyn Navy Yard contains property to the 
 amount of upwards of $23,000,000. 
 
 Brooklyn is soon to be supplied with water. A plan 
 for introducing water frOm the streams and ponds on the 
 south side of the island, in the vicinity of Jamaica, has 
 been submitted. It will involve, from the estimates of 
 Mr. Mc Alpine, the State Engineer, $3,406,650. The 
 removal of the Navy Yard, a hope of which is held out, 
 would be a great improvement to the city, and the sale 
 of lots would enable the government to procure another 
 site. "We hope the project will speedily be carried into 
 execution; it is all that is needed to render Brooklyn 
 equal in its facilities with New York, Although it can 
 now be scarcely called a suburban city, yet it possesses 
 much superiority as a place of residence, from the regu- 
 larity of its streets, its salubrity and picturesque locality. 
 There are few remnants of antiquity existing in Brook- 
 lyn — the Jackson farm, between Fulton Avenue and 
 Powers street, is now a school-house. •It was for a long 
 time deserted, in consequence of its having been the 
 scene of a suicide and murder. Cherry farm — from which 
 old deeds reckoned distances, is yet standing, a mean 
 looking dilapidated old shanty, in Fulton Avenue. 
 An old tree always claims our respect — there is a noble 
 buttonwood tree at the junction of Fulton and De Kalb 
 Avenues, that neither the ruthless hand of the leveller, 
 nor the iron teeth of Time, have yet impaired. Its age 
 is conjectured to exceed two centuries. Some old 
 Sachems may have held council under its leafy branches, 
 and many a bright eye that has faded long ago into the 
 night of death, may have gazed upon its magnificent 
 foliage. 
 
 Hail ! old patrici.an tree?, so great and good I 
 Hail ! ye plebeian underwood, — 
 
138 NEW YORK IN A NUTSHELL. 
 
 Where the poetic birds rejoice, 
 
 And for their quiet nests and plenteous food, 
 
 Pay with their grateful voice. 
 
 South Brooklyn is especially adorned by numerous 
 costly residences. Fort G-reene — once a towering battle- 
 ment, and still the crowiiing glory of the city, is now be- 
 ing formed into a city park. We, however, deprecate 
 the grading system so much ' in vogue, here and else- 
 where, which has lopped off all the physical features of 
 this once classic ground. A great deal of battle-story is 
 connected with Brooklyn and its suburbs, which is doubt- 
 less familiar to the reader. One httlo incident we shall 
 here introduce : it is as follows : 
 
 " One of the most san^inary conflicts that occurred on Long Island, 
 was that between Snrling and Cornwallis; the site of the action was near 
 the ' Cortelyou House,' near Gowanus. This house is still standing, and 
 is an object of interest, not only for its antiquity, but for its l^isto^ic asso- 
 ciations. The place of severest Contest, and where Sullivan and his men 
 were made prisoners, was upon the slope bttween Flatbush Avenue and 
 the Long Island Railway, near ' Bakers Tavern,' at a little east of the 
 junction of these avenues. Stirling having taken his position near Cortel- 
 you House, fired two guns as a signal for Grant to press forward. That 
 officer immediately attacked the Americans, and in the engagement Col. 
 Atlee was made a prisoner. H' mmed in by the foe, Stirling saw no op- 
 portunity for escape except across the Gowanus creek, at the dam of the 
 ' Yellow Mill,' and other places below Brower's Mills. To effect this, it 
 was necessary to attack Cornwallis, and while a few— a forlorn hope- 
 should keep him at bay, a large part of the Americans might escape. No 
 time was to be lost, for the tide was rising, and soon the creek would be 
 impassable. Changing his front, and leaving his main body in conflict 
 with Grant, Siirling, at the head of a part of Smallwood's battallion, com- 
 manded by Major (afterward General) Gist, fell upon Cornwallis, and 
 blood flowed freely. For twenty minutes the conflict was lerrible. Stir- 
 ling endeavored to drive the Earl up the Port road, get between him and 
 Fort Bax. and under cover of its g ms, escai e across Brower's dam. He 
 was successful ; but while with his handful of brave young men he was 
 keepin£ the invader In check, a laree pan of his companions in arms, 
 cons'stFnir now chiefly of Haslet's Delawares and a part of Smallwood's 
 Marylanders, reached the creek. Some passed it in safety, but many 
 sunk into silence in the deep mud on its margin, or beneath its turbid 
 waters. Stirling was obliged to yield, when despoiled of nearly all of his 
 brave men. He became a prisoner, and was sent immediately on board 
 the Eagl<'. Lord Howe's flag ship. Thus ended the battle, when the sun 
 was at meridian ; when it disappeared behind the low hills of New Jer- 
 sey, one third of the five thousand patriots who had contended for victory, 
 were lost to their country— dead, wounded, or prisoners. Soon many of 
 the latter were festering with disease in the loathsome prisons in New 
 
BROOKLYN. 139 
 
 The vicinity of Brooklyn possesses many points of 
 interest ; we can but name some of them. Williams- 
 burgh — a corporate city, of later years, evidently emula- 
 tive of the marvellous growth of her neighboring rival. 
 I^lushing, Iilathush, Jamaica^ Bath, Fort Hamilton, Coney 
 Island, and New Utretch. Near Guildford, on a rocky 
 peninsula, is the cave of the notorious pirate, Capt.Kidd ; 
 it is marked with his initials. 
 
 The principal Cemeteries of Long Island, are the 
 Cypress Hills, the Cemetery of the Evergreens, and Green- 
 wood. A beautiful retreat is Greenwood Cemetery. 
 Nature and art have combined to make this place of 
 sepulture all that a poet's fancy calls Elysian. These 
 sequestered grounds extend over an area of about two 
 hundred and fifty acres, and are singularly picturesque 
 and varied in their aspect. They are diversified with 
 hills, valleys, streams, and serpentine walks, and adorned 
 with a rich profusion of shrubbery, flowers, and every 
 variety of shade trees. 
 
 Enter this wild-vrood, 
 And view tho haunts of Nature, the calm shades 
 Shall bring a kindred calm, and the sweet breeze 
 That makes the green leaves donee, shall waft a hymn 
 To thy sick heart. 
 
 On the margin of Sylvan Lake, rises the memorial of 
 the fair, yet hapless girl of the forest — Do-hum-me, the 
 
 York, or in the more loathsome prisons at the Wallabout. Gen. Wood- 
 hull was made a prisoner at.Tamaica tho next day; and at the close of the 
 summer, no man wa.s in arms against the Crown in Kinfrs, Queens, and 
 Richmond counties. The victors encamped in front of the patriot lines, 
 and reposed until the morning of the twenty eighth, when they broke 
 ground within six hundred yards of Fort Putnam, cast up a redoubt, and 
 cannonaded the American Works. Washington was there, and joyfully 
 perceived the design of Howe to commence regular approaches instead 
 of rapid assaults This (act was a ray of light in the midst ofsurrounding 
 gloom. The Chief had crossed from New York early in the morning, and 
 had witnessed the destruction of some of his finest troo[)S, without ability 
 to send them aid except at the peril of the safety of the camp or of the 
 city, and hia whole army. Ignorant of his real strength, Howe dared 
 not attempt an assault, and Washington had time to conceive and exe- 
 cute measures for the safety of his troops." 
 
140 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 beautiful Indian, who so soon exchanged her bridal for 
 her burial. In close proximity, is the no less touching 
 memento of poor McDonald Clark, the friendless and 
 neglected poet. A httle to the north, stands the richly 
 ornamented oratory, or monument to the memory of 
 Miss Canda, who, in the pride and bloom of beauty, 
 fell a victim lo the relentless destroyer. This hallowed 
 place of graves is redolent of poetic and mournful associa- 
 tions. Turn whatever way you will, the eye is greeted 
 by some touching or quaint device or imagery, which 
 appeals with irresistible force to the heart. Here sleeps 
 the hero, who has braved the battle field ; here peers up 
 ar little sanctuary for some darling infant, whose gentle 
 repose seems to shed the halo of purity and innocence 
 all around ; and here again an altar is erected to beauty, 
 whose radiance may no longer shed sunshine on the heart. 
 But we must refrain from loitering in these enchanted 
 grounds; a week of days might be devoted to their 
 description. Some charming views of the surrounding 
 country, — the Ocean, Staten Island, and New York, may 
 be obtained from eminences in Greenwood. 
 
THE HUDSON. 
 
 What though no cloister grey nor ivied column 
 
 Along the-e cliffs thi-ir sombre ruins rear ! 
 What though no frowning tower nor temple solemn 
 
 Of tyrants tell of superstition here,— 
 There's not a verdant glade nor mountain hoary, 
 But treasures up the memories of Freedom's story. 
 
 The vicinity of New York abounds with places of pic- 
 turesque interest. The Bay, with its cluster of fort- 
 crowned islets, — the sloping shores of New Jersey, 
 Hoboken, Elysian Fields, Fort Lee, and the bold, natu- 
 ral ramparts of the pahsades. The Passaic river, and its 
 romantic cascade, whose silver waters leap some seventy 
 feet over a narrow rocky chasm, also claim the notice of 
 the visitor. 
 
 The passage of the Hudson, like the tour of the Rhine, 
 is the great natural attraction to tourists. This magnifi- 
 cent river is redolent of historic associations, and its 
 scenery is highly picturesque and romantic — scarcely 
 surpassed by any of the classic streams of the Old World. 
 The Hudson is consecrated by hallowed memories of 
 some of the most heroic and touching passages in the 
 story of our War of Independence. It was on the Hud- 
 son, also, that the incipient experiment of propelling a 
 vessel by steam was first achieved, and ere half a century 
 has elapsed, it bears upon its bosom a thousand floating 
 palaces, whose keels divide the limpid waters with such 
 wondrous speed. The Hudson is also one of the great 
 highways of commerce, as well as the chosen route of 
 thousands of pleasure tourists. 
 
 From Manhattanville to Fort Washington a succession 
 
142 NEW YORK IN A NUT- SHELL. 
 
 of finely wooded heights, sweep gracefully to the shore. 
 The mounds of the old fort are still to be seen. The 
 view from there is one of the finest in the vicinity of 
 New York. Audubon's residence is situated a little be- 
 low, at Bloomingdale, at an angle in the road.* 
 
 Passing Dohhs Ferry^ a place of considerable impor- 
 tance during the Revolution, we reach Plermont, on the 
 western shore, so called from its pier, which is a mile in 
 length, and which forms the commencement of the New 
 York and Erie railroad. A little beyond the Dearraan 
 Station is Sunny-Side^ the residence of Washington 
 Irving. It is embosomed in rich foliage, and occupies 
 one of the most enchanting little nooks on the river. 
 The house has been restored and beautified by Mr. Irving. 
 It stands on the site of the famous " Wolfert's Roost" of 
 the olden time. It was built by Wolfert Ecker, an 
 ancient burgher of the town, and afterwards came into 
 the possession of Jacob Van Tassel, one of the " race of 
 hard-headed, hard-handed, stout-hearted Dutchmen, de- 
 scended of the primitive Netherlanders," 
 
 The village of Tappan will ever be an object of deep 
 interest from its connection with the history of the con- 
 spiracy of Arnold, and the tragic fate of his accomphce, 
 Andre. The site of the execution of the latter, and the 
 place of his burial, is situated about a mile from the 
 town, and is pointed out to the traveller. The story of 
 Arnold's conspiracy is familiar to the reader. 
 
 At Tarry town, which is about a mile beyond Tappan, 
 on the Eastern shore, is a Dutch church, nearly two hun- 
 dred years old; it is near this place where Andre was 
 captured. 
 
 * It is curious to remark that for nearly thiity miles up the Hudsou, 
 the •western shore presents uniformly either some variety of trap rock- 
 conglomerate or s-coadary formation, while the eastern abounds inpri, 
 rnitive or granite rock, as also the entire island of Manhattan. 
 
THE HUDSON. 143 
 
 Not far distant is " Sleepy Hollow,'' — a spot which the 
 classic pen of the author of the "Sketch Book" has ren- 
 dered famous for the woes and mishaps that in its pre- 
 cincts fell upon the luckless head of Ichabod Crane, in his 
 pursuit after the broad lands and blooming person of 
 Katrina Van Tassel. In this vicinity is Westchester — 
 the " neutral ground," — the scene of fierce hostilities 
 'during the war. Here is to be seen the house in which 
 Cooper wrote his " Spy." 
 
 Sing- Sing, with its celebrated prison, built of marble 
 is a little beyond. 
 
 Here the river presents the appearance of lake scenery. 
 Haverstraw village is on the West side of the bay. 
 This town includes Grassy Point and Stony Point, with 
 the old forts of Clinton and Montgomery, so celebrated 
 in the Revolutionary War. The latter is a bold rough 
 promontory. 
 
 West Point is a central spot, for the eye is greeted on 
 every side by an ever-varying succession of beauties. 
 On either bank majestic mountains rear their lofty crests 
 — those of Fishkill, Peekskill, Beacon Hill, and An- 
 thony's Nose ; while the blue Catskill range bounds the 
 dim horizon in the North. 
 
 This place is consecrated by cherished memories of the 
 heroic patriotism of our forefathers. Some of the severest 
 struggles in our war of Independence took place in this 
 vicinity: and these grand old rocks once reverberated 
 with the booming of cannon and the clash of arms. 
 
 The scenery adjacent is highly picturesque ; it abounds 
 with rural spots of great beauty. One of the favorite resorts 
 of visitors is a rocky glen, called Indian Falls. These 
 Falls are entirely hid from the view by the thick foliage, 
 until you come directly upon them. They are situated 
 about a mile from Cold Spring. 
 
 UnderclifF, close by, is the country seat of G-en. Q-eorgo 
 P. Morris, whose lyrics have attained such wide celebrity. 
 
144 NEW YORK IN A NUT-SHELL. 
 
 The selection of a spot of such rare beauty, is of itself an 
 indication of poetic taste, and well suited to awaken 
 a poet's raptures. 
 
 As you continue to ascend the river, a succession 
 of beautiful views attract the eye, till the magnificent 
 mountain range of the Catskills looms up from the distant 
 horizon. 
 
 The echoes that so boldly rung, 
 
 When cannon flashed from steep to steep, 
 And Freedom's airy challenge fluLg 
 
 In each romantic valley deep. 
 Hi*; councils here, our chieftain breathed, 
 
 Here roved his mild undaunted eye. 
 When yon lone fort with thickets wreathed, 
 
 Htld captive Britain's gallant spy. 
 
 lilST OF FERRIES. 
 
 Brooklyn. -ft. Whitehall, Fulton, Oatharine, and Governeur 
 
 Bull's F.rry fi. Spring, N. R. 
 
 Elizabethport ft. Baliery Place. 
 
 Fo t Le- ft. Spring. 
 
 Hell f^ate ft. 86ih, E. R. 
 
 Hoboken ft. Barclay, Canal, Chri-topher and 19th sts. 
 
 Jersey C ty ^ ft. Counlaiidt st. 
 
 New Briuhion ft. Bat ery Place. 
 
 Pot Richmond ft. B uery Place. 
 
 Staten Island ft. White! all. 
 
 Williamsburg ft Giand and Ptck Slip. 
 
 RAIIiROAD DEPOTS. 
 
 Camden and Amboy PlerlN. R* 
 
 Central (of New Jersey) Pier IN. R. 
 
 Fall River and Boston Pi.r3N.R. 
 
 Hulson River Hudson con er ( h-mbers. 
 
 Long Island.....'. South Ferry, Brooklyn. 
 
 Morris and Essex f'- Courtlaudt. 
 
 New Jersey It.Couitandt andLierty. 
 
 New York and Erie ^—.v''!- P"*"** 
 
 New York and Harlem C ty Hal Square. 
 
 New York and New Hav»n 412 Broadway. 
 
 New York, Provid(mcf, and Boston Pier 2, N. R. 
 
 Norwich and Worcester Pitt 18 N. R., ft. Courtlandt. 
 
 Patereon and Hudson River ft. Courilandt 
 
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