smtti. 
 
WM 
 
 Class 
 Book- 
 
 
 / 
 
THE 
 
 Golden Gate 
 
 JAMES LINEN 
 
 ** Oh, what a goodly sight it is to see 
 
 What Heaven hath done for this delicious land ; 
 What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree. 
 What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand." 
 
 SAN FRANCISCO 
 
 E D WA R D BO SQV I AND COM PA NY 
 
 1869. 
 
t6 ^^^ 
 
 '2 
 
0- 
 
 RUFUS C. HOPKINS, Esq. 
 
 WITH WHOM I HAVE SPENT SOME OF THE HAPPIEST HOURS OF MV LIFE 
 
 IN CALIFORNIA 
 
 THIS LITTLE I'OEM 
 
 IS AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED 
 
 BV HIS CORDIAL AND AblDI.VG FRIEND 
 
 JAMES LINEN. 
 
 San Francisco, December i5th, 1S69. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The poem entitled " The Golden Gate" is descriptive and historical in 
 character. The ample notes were segregated from sources that are Inaccessible 
 to the common reader, and will be tuund Interesting and instructive. 
 
 J. B. Wandesforde, Esq., the distinguished artist, generously lent the aid 
 of his genius to grace the following pages by six of his beautiful sketches. 
 Arthur Nahl, Esq., kindly contributed the spirited sketch of the "Pioneers 
 crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains on horseback." The railroad scene at 
 *' Cape Horn," is from the pencil of Norton Bush, Esq. The work is purely 
 a Californian production. No expense has been spared by the Author in mak- 
 ing it a credit to the State, and an appropriate and acceptable gitt-book. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 DRAWN II V 
 
 Sca/ Rocks J- B- VVandesforde. 7 
 
 Golden Gate spa?iiicd by a rainboiu .... — lo 
 
 Sunset Scene — 11 
 
 Rlourit Tamalpais — 1 3 
 
 Mission Dolores — 19 
 
 Pioneers crossing the Sierras A. Nahl. 20 
 
 Cape Horn on the Railroad N. Bush. 26 
 
 Clear Lake J- B- Wandesforde. 29 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 O ve men of thought and with' hearts elate, 
 Come, muse with me by the Golden Gate : 
 Your seat be a rock where the sea-weeds grow, 
 And the restless tides ever ebb and flow — 
 Where the rushing waves on their shoreward track. 
 Swirl their seething surf round the bowlders black 
 Let the brow of Care by the breeze be fanned. 
 And with rapture gaze on the rugged strand 
 Of the Golden Gate of the golden land. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 Where the winds are cold and the skies are bleak, 
 And the tempests rage and the sea-birds shriek ; 
 Where the surf-crowned waves, as they beachward go, 
 Seem like long white wreaths of the drifted snow ; 
 Where rocks upon rocks are fearfully piled, 
 And winds whistle tunes that are weird and wild ; 
 Where thunders are heard and the lightnings play, 
 O'er the beetling crags that are dashed by spray. 
 And where billows rave with a ceaseless roar. 
 Tower Bonita's peaks by a jagged shore ; ' 
 And where Lobos frowns with its shaggy steep '' 
 And defiance bids to the surging deep ; 
 Where the hungry wolves of the dreary past, 
 Howled over the diffs to the howling blast f 
 Where, near to Seal Rock the sea-lions' wail, 
 Is heard in the sound of the sweeping gale. 
 And the screaming gulls finding crewless decks, 
 Rest their wear)' wings on the drifting wrecks ; 
 And a stormy sea and a stormy sky, 
 Speak in thunder tones of the dangers nigh — 
 Of the dreaded Bar with its awful waves 
 That in fury roll over dead men's graves. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 So dreadfully wild, so terribly grand, 
 
 Is the Golden Gate of the golden land.* 
 
 Now, the mighty dome of eternal blue 
 Is roofed with the clouds of a leaden hue. 
 That the sunbeams seem to be struggling through ; 
 And the winds are hushed and the waves asleep, 
 And a breathless calm hangs over the deep, 
 While the cold damp fogs up the mountains creep. 
 Till their summits bare, that mock storm and gale, 
 Are all swathed and wrapt in a misty veil; 
 And the sun shines not on his weary round. 
 And the fog-bell tolls such a doleful sound 
 That ships from afar with their precious freight. 
 Dare not enter in at the Golden Gate. 
 
 Now, Nature is free from a wintry gloom, 
 And the fields are green and the orchards bloom, 
 O with music sweet all the woodlands ring 
 While she weaves the robe of a joyous Spring ! 
 The rivers are swelled by the gushing rills. 
 And bleatings are heard on the purple hills ; 
 The swallows have come and the vernal breeze 
 Bends the leafy plumes of the forest trees ; 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 The brown withered meads spring to life anew, 
 
 And the flowers are nurst by the morning dew. 
 
 There's a thrill of J03' by the miner felt, 
 
 As he sees the snow from the mountains melt ; 
 
 In his cabin rude amid golden dreams, 
 
 He basks in the bliss of Hope's cheering beams. 
 
 With sweet songs of love the lark woos his mate, 
 
 And storms howl no more in the Golden Gate. 
 
 Have you seen the Gate by a rainbow spanned 
 Bathed in radiant light like enchanted land — 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 Seen its beauteous form hung o'er waters blue 
 Where the shores are tinged with a golden hue ; 
 Clouds gliding along in the liquid air, 
 Pure and white as robes that the seraphs wear ; 
 Ships with canvas wings that are spread in pride. 
 Passing through the arch on a flowing tide ? 
 Mocking painter's brush and tiie wizard's wand, 
 Glows the Golden Gate of the golden land ! 
 
 See the monarch orb sinking slowly down 
 In the crimson West like a golden crown. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 Where cloud curtains hang and the radiant sky 
 With the glowing tints of the sea-shells vie ; 
 Where lingering beams in their glory play 
 O'er the dazzling couch of the lord of day. 
 To gild the dark path when man's race is run, 
 Shines the star of hope by life's setting sun ; 
 With dull weary eyes and a heavy heart, 
 He has seen the joys of the world depart — 
 Seen his cherished schemes passing swift awa}', 
 Like the transient pomp of departing day ; 
 But no tongue may tell of his trials great, 
 Since he. entered in at the Golden Gate. 
 
 Now, the gloaming comes casting dusky shades 
 O'er the barren hills and the waving glades ; 
 Weary nature rests and the fading light; 
 Softly melts away in the pall of night. 
 Over Tamalpais and the vales below' 
 The glittering spheres in their splendor glow, 
 And gliding along in the depths of blue, 
 Shines the crescent moon like a bright canoe. 
 O ! 'tis sweet to gaze with a fond delight. 
 On the sparkling gems of the robe of night, 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 ''3 
 
 When mirrored in waves they all seem to be 
 Far down in the depths of the trembling sea ; 
 And 'tis sweet to muse by the sounding shore 
 When the wear}- toils of the day are o'er, 
 Where the surf rolls in at a courser's speed, 
 Like the curling mane of a milk-white steed — 
 To watch the spent waves with a proud disdain, 
 Kiss coldly the beach and shrink back again ; 
 To sit on the heights where the moonbeams play 
 And see the rocks dashed by the tossing spray ; 
 To feel the soft breeze as it gently blows 
 On the thoughtful brow in a calm repose ; 
 
14 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 To think of the past and in fancy flee 
 Afar from the shores of the western sea, 
 To the happy home that in by-gone days 
 Rung aloud with hymns of sweet evening praise, 
 Where the touching love of a mother's care 
 Taught the lisping tongue its nocturnal prayer, 
 And led erring steps of a wayward youth 
 In the light of faith and the paths of truth ; 
 O ! such crowding thoughts on all strangers wait. 
 That have entered in at the Golden Gate. 
 
 Now, the air is clear and the weather fine, 
 And the sun has passed the meridian line ; 
 Stretching far and wide as the eye can reach. 
 Ocean's bounds are marked by a foamy beach. 
 And bevond the reef where the billows break," 
 Moored the Golden Him/ of the daring Drake.' 
 Amid pealing sounds and the cannon's roar, 
 Startled echoes woke on that savage shore. 
 Unknown to the cliffs and the hills before. 
 
 With dread wonder struck, painted black and red, 
 In a wild dismay the poor Indians fled ; 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 15 
 
 For long ages ruled by unwritten laws, 
 They had lived in peace with their dusky squaws : 
 Like their sires of old, near the surging sea, 
 Over hill and plain they had wandered free. 
 Those lords of the soil and the stirring chase 
 Ne'er heard of the lands of the pale-faced race, 
 And they little dreamt as they shook with fear. 
 That their English guest was a buccaneer. 
 Soon returning back in rude rank and file, 
 On their features wild played a welcome smile ; 
 Their bows and their clubs to the ground were flung, 
 And with howlings weird in a savage tongue, 
 Amid hideous yells loud the welkin rung. 
 
 Bearing gifts of peace in procession slow. 
 Women clothed in rags swelled the motle}" show ; 
 And the men of rank on that wondrous day 
 The rude symbols bore of a ro3-al sway. 
 With majestic air and a stalwart frame, 
 In barbarous pomp the old hioh came ; ' 
 While he felt the pride of his noble blood, 
 Like a statue dumb the grim monarch stood ; 
 
i6 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 But soon the rough shake of his friendly hand, 
 A warm welcome gave to the Christian band : 
 He thought they were gods with no taint of crime, 
 That were clothed in power from a mystic clime — 
 From a fadeless land where no want is seen, 
 And the hunting-grounds are forever green ; 
 From a world of bliss where no cares annoy. 
 And the wigwams ring with the songs of joy ; 
 Where emerald hills that in glory rise, 
 Hide their shining peaks in the opal skies ; 
 Where the harvests wave like a golden sea, 
 And the spirits dwell that are pure and free. 
 
 Thus the monarch mused and bewildered gazed 
 On the strangers pale, while he looked amazed ; 
 As he felt his rule hail for ever fled 
 He placed a rude crown on Drake's honored head — 
 On the head of him who for spoils and gain 
 Sunk the mighty ships of chivalrous Spain. 
 
 While the English crew demon-worship saw. 
 
 Their stout hearts were thrilled with a nameless awe : 
 
 There were wizard spells, there were hellish rites. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 17 
 
 And a choral dance in the dismnl nigfi/s, 
 While great bonfires blazed on the circling heights. 
 Thoughts dwell on the past while I musing stand, 
 By the Golden Gate of the golden land. 
 
 The Farallon isles bleak, barren, and bare," 
 No emerald robe in the spring time wear — 
 Not a flower that blooms, nor a bush, nor tree 
 E'er grew on those rocks of the lonely sea : 
 No music is heard, no birds ever sing, 
 And no fountains leap with a bounding spring. 
 The tales of the past are those of despair. 
 Of men and of hopes that have perished there. 
 'Gainst eternal crags that are steep and high, 
 Billows madly toss their foam to the sky; 
 And a hideous noise the sea lions make, 
 Like the bowlings wild of an Intlian wake. 
 Oft those monsters fight on that dreary shore. 
 Till the clifts are red with their dripping gore. 
 O could you but see the numberless flocks, 
 Of murrs and of gulls that cover the rocks — 
 In millions they sit, in millions they fly. 
 Like a floating cloud in the azure sky ; 
 
ig THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 The coot wild and black, and the puffin (liir, 
 Join the motley crowds that are screaming tliere ; 
 Fierce, merciless hawks that come from afar. 
 With those feathered tribes, wage a fearful war ; 
 In clefts of the crags, rude, hoary, and grey, 
 The winged pirates pounce on their helpless prey — 
 Like tyrants that mock all the claims of right. 
 And regard no rule but the law of might. 
 
 When the nights are dark, and winds cold and bleak- 
 To the sailor brave that may safety seek — 
 Shines a warning light on a lofty peak," 
 Which silently tells of the dangers great, 
 That lie in the way to the Golden Gate. 
 
 As the sun retires amid clouds sublime. 
 
 To gladden the shores of a distant clime, 
 
 So, to scatter shades of a mental night, 
 
 The sage Friars came with their creed of light : " 
 
 Shining bars of gold were but worthless dross 
 
 To those holy men of the sacred Cross ; 
 
 Soon their churches rose amid pastures green, 
 
 Where the Indian huts had for ages been, 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 19 
 
 And they saw their herds and their flocks increase 
 On the hills of joy in a land of peace ; 
 In the Christian folds Spanish liclls were rung, 
 And the thrilling strains of Te Daims sung ; 
 With a new born zeal which the natives felt, 
 They could count their beads, and at altars knelt : 
 With the fear of hell and the smarting rod, 
 They were all baptized in the name of God. 
 Thus the Indians wild were tamed and shriven. 
 And their souls made pure and tit for Heaven. 
 Old Dolores stands ; but a foreign race 
 Chants the hymns of praise with a saintly grace, 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 And no dusky tribes willi a faith divine 
 Ever kneel around Santa Clara's shrine. 
 The}- have passed away, the poor crouching slaves, 
 And no tombstones mark their forgotten graves ; 
 And as sy.stems change, so the priests gave place, '"' 
 To the braver sons of a nobler race ; 
 Now, the frowning guns of a mighty State 
 Guard the narrow pass of the Golden Gate." 
 
 Over dreary leagues of wild sage and sand, 
 Upon jaded steeds rode a gallant band 
 On their weary way to the golden land. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 With pistols and sword that hung by his side, 
 Each man had an air of a warhke pride. 
 Their long western path through vast deserts lay, 
 That were peopled thick with the beasts of prey ; 
 Over prairies wide where fierce Indians prowl, 
 And nightly is heard the wolf's dismal howl — 
 Over savage hills that are bare and drear, 
 The haunts of the elk and the antlered deer — 
 Over cheerless wastes of the drifting snow. 
 Where the freezing winds in cold fury blow ; 
 Where the cougar lurks and the grizzly bear, 
 As lord of the wild, wanders wildly there — 
 Over tumbling streaftis that from mountains gush, 
 And through canons deep foaming headlong rush ; 
 Where the rocky hills in rude grandeur rise, 
 And snow-turbaned peaks pierce the brumal skies — 
 Those undaunted men of sinewy limb 
 Could the glacier scale and the mountain climb. 
 Though benumbed and cold and with stifled breath, 
 Down Sierra's steeps, braving storms and death. 
 With hearts beating free from all coward fears. 
 Dashed that daring band of bold Pioneers, " 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 Tyrants sow the seeds of a swift deca}-, 
 When they put their trust in a priestly swav. 
 They may fetters forge and dark dungeons build, 
 And for lengthened years may dominion wield ; 
 They may rear their thrones on glittering swords, 
 And their will be law to obedient hordes ; 
 But the god-like march of the human mind 
 Is onward and free as the chainless wind. 
 They may as well try to blot out the sun, 
 As regain the fields by brave Freedom won — 
 She is clothed in robes of a radiant light, 
 And her sword is drawn in the cause of Right ; 
 Her sceptre is Truth — a gift from her God — 
 Which man cannot change to a crushing rod ; 
 The dome of her shrine by no mortal made, 
 Is gemmed with the stars that can never fade ; 
 A heaven-born thing of beauty and grace. 
 She reigns in the hearts of her chosen race. 
 Let Bigotry rave and Tyranny frown, 
 They never can drag Freedom's empire down. 
 
 The settler was dragged from his peaceful hearth," 
 When his only crime was a foreign birth ; 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 23 
 
 The Missions were crushed and Justice had fled, 
 And Pity in grief wept over the dead. 
 A sullen dark gloom crept over the land 
 That was sternly ruled by a robber band ; 
 Freedom's daring sons felt the galling yoke 
 Of the tyrant rule, which they proudly broke. 
 A rude painted bear and a single star," 
 Formed the strange device of their flag of war ; 
 With a nameless thrill there were passions stirred, 
 And the sounds of drums and of bugles heard, 
 And the Union flag, where sweet music rung,'' 
 On a mountain peak to the breeze was flung. 
 O'er the dreary hill, through the rugged glen. 
 Marched the valiant band of chivalrous men ; 
 Though weary and worn and in numbers few. 
 They were ever found to their standard true. 
 Amid roaring guns Freedom led the way. 
 Till her banner waved over Monterey." 
 
 When the sword is sheathed and war's thunders cease, 
 O 'tis sweet to bask in the rays of peace ! 
 The poor soldiers tired to their homes repair. 
 And find greeting smiles of warm welcome there ; 
 
24 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 While her circling arms clasp her darling boy, 
 
 Thrills the mother's breast with a nameless joy, 
 
 And the kisses fond of a sister's love, 
 
 Would the frozen heart of a stoic move. 
 
 Honor pure and brave, ever sadly tell 
 
 Of the crimsoned fields where loved comrades fell; 
 
 Where the trampling hoofs of war-steeds have been, 
 
 And their crushing march left a desert scene. 
 
 But the hero true strikes no coward blow 
 
 On the drooping head of a fallen foe ; 
 
 Glory gives her crowns to the just and good. 
 
 And her brightest wreaths are unstained with blood. 
 
 O glorious land ! to thy lowly born 
 
 Plenty waits on Toil with her ample horn ; 
 
 The earth parched and bare drinks the grateful rain, 
 
 That soon robes the fields with rich golden grain : 
 
 And the warming beams nurse the clasping vine, 
 
 That thy wear}- sons may have cheering wine ; 
 
 Gardens glow with fruit and the gentle breeze 
 
 Shakes a juicy load from the orchard trees ; 
 
 In thy golden hills, and thy valleys green. 
 
 Pale and haggard Want is but seldom seen : 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 All man's little needs, bounteous nature yields 
 In her countless herds and her teeming fields — 
 There is no such thing as pure human bliss, 
 If it be not fouml in a land like this. 
 
 Toil imparts the glow of a ruddy health, 
 And it points the way to reach solid wealth, 
 Climbs the social scale by sure slow degrees, 
 Till its triumphs end in a life of ease. 
 In its train are found all the truly great. 
 That in honor live ami build uj) the State. 
 But no guerdons bright and no honored name. 
 Crown the bloated slaves of dull sloth and .shame. 
 
 Thousands lured by gold and a thirst for i;-ain. 
 Chase the phantom wild of a fevered brain. 
 And around the heart that to Mammon cleaves. 
 Withered hopes lie thick as the autumn leaves. 
 O how man\' men who are strong and bra\'e. 
 In their search for gold, find a pauper's grave ! 
 But it is not meet to recount the tale, 
 Over which the Muse draws a friendlv veil. 
 
z6 
 
 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 O'er the prairie wide and the dismal swamp, 
 Through tunnels of rock that are dark and damp, 
 Beneath frowning crags and the rugged ridge, 
 O'er the roaring flood and the trembling bridge, 
 O'er tlie mountain gorge, o'er desert and plain, 
 Sweeps the Iron Steed, with his freighted train. 
 Like some demon of wrath in his vengeful ire, 
 He feeds on the flames of a raging fire ; 
 Such great piles he bolts of the blazing wood 
 That the gnarled roots tell where a forest stood. 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. ay 
 
 He hisses and snorts and his nostrils swell, 
 And his mouth is red as the jaws of hell, 
 And the rash will find quick torture and death, 
 Jn the scalding steam of his burning breath ; 
 And the belching smoke that he vomits high 
 Is blacker than clouds in a murky sky ; 
 And his piercing shrieks are louder by far, 
 Than the eagle's scream or trumpets of war ; 
 And he swifter runs in his awful haste, 
 Than the ostrich flies o'er the arid waste ; 
 Leaving dells behind that with blossoms glow. 
 He climbs dizzy heights that arc clad with snow. 
 And rushing along by the mountain side. 
 The fierce tempest mocks with a scornful pride ; 
 Amid howling winds and cold sleet and hail. 
 His whistles are heard in the midnight gale, 
 And weird echoes ring that are wild and grand, 
 As he onward sweeps through the desert land. 
 
 When the stars are lost in the gloom of night, 
 On his blackened front shines a flaming light. 
 And the burning lamps through window and sash. 
 Like a comet's tail in the darkness flash. 
 
zS THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 And i^dittering rays in their glory gleam, 
 
 On his dome of brass and his chests of steam. 
 
 By rivets and bolts he is firmly bound, 
 
 And by burnished hoops he is girdled round, 
 
 And a sounding bell on the monster hung, 
 
 Rings aloud his march with an iron tongue. 
 
 This terrible liend of devouring fire 
 
 Never longs and pants with a wild desire ; 
 
 Obedient and tame and guided by skill. 
 
 He yields like a slave to his master's will. 
 
 With no heart to feel, with no eyes to scan, 
 
 His strength puts to shame his creator, man : 
 
 The strong mighty arm and the giant limb 
 
 With their nerves and bones are weak things to him. 
 
 He can crush them all as a w-isp can tear 
 
 The soft filmy threads of a spider's snare. 
 
 While the furnace glows and the steam gives force, 
 
 He will never tire in his onward course ; 
 
 The forest may crash and the bold grow pale, 
 
 But he trembles not in the wildest gale ; 
 
 Still, he thunders on and he ne'er looks back, 
 
 In his daring race on the iron track — 
 
THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 29 
 
 H^^ 
 
 
 And this fiery steed with a senseless form, 
 Carries timid man through the fearful storm. 
 
 O land of the West ! may no deeds of crime, 
 Ever stain thy course in thy march sublime, 
 And as Freedom's home be thou ever found, 
 And may Virtue guard all thy borders round ; 
 In thy moral strength and in all that 's great, 
 Be thy sons the pride of the golden State: 
 And fair as the flowers that in beauty grow. 
 Be thy daughters pure as thy mountain snow. 
 
30 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 Then, sunk be the fleet and palsied the arm 
 
 That would blast thy peace or would do thee harm. 
 
 May thy starry flag ever proudly wave 
 
 O'er the land untrod by a human slave ; 
 
 And on each and all may rich blessings wait, 
 
 That may enter in at the Golden Gate. 
 
HISTORICAL NOTES. 
 
 (i ). PuNTA BoNiTA — Beautiful Point. "The north head of the entrance into 
 the bay oi San Francisco is tormed by this point. It is a narrow, precipitous, 
 rocky cape, nearly 300 feet high, and stretching from the lighthouse about half a 
 mile to the S, E." — Da'vidson^s Report^ U. S. Coast Surury. 
 
 (a), PuNTA DE LOS LoBos — TFoh'cs^ Point. *' The south head of the en- 
 trance into the bay of San Francisco is formed by this point, 375 feet high. Off 
 the western face of Point Lobos lie a number of black jagged rocks, about 50 
 feet high, but all within the five-fathom line, and close on shore. They are 
 called the Seal Rocks, and one of them shows a large arch from particular direc- 
 tions." — Dai'idson^s Report^ U. S. Coast Surt'ey. 
 
 (3), The desolate neighborhood of Point Lobos was infested with number- 
 less wolves in by-gone days. 
 
 {4). "The Golden Gate is the entrance to the Bay, and presents the charac- 
 ter of a great cleft or fissure in the sea-coast range of mountains, thereby con- 
 necting the bay of San Francisco with the Pacific ocean. Both shores are 
 bold, broken into points and rocky ; but the northern is much the bolder, ris- 
 ing almost perpendicularly from the water, attaining an elevation of^ about 
 
32- THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 1,000 feet, but a short distance back, and in seven miles rising to 2,600 feet." — ■ 
 Dafidsons Report^ U. S. Coast Sur'vey. 
 
 The name Golden Gate first appears in the "Geographical Memoir of Cali- 
 fornia," and relative map, published by Col. Fremont in the spring of 1848. 
 This was before the gold excitement commenced. 
 
 (5). Tamalpais. The loftiest summit of the coast range of mountains in 
 Marin county, near the bay of San Francisco. 
 
 (6). This reff is known on the map as Duxberry Reef. 
 
 (7). The Golden Hind was the name of the vessel of Sir Francis Drake, who 
 visited the coast of California in 1579. An old chronicler says : " he was obliged 
 to sail towards the north ; in which course, having continued at least six hundred 
 leagues, and being got into forty-three degrees north latitude, they found it in- 
 tolerably cold; upon which they steered southwards, till they got into thirty- 
 eight degrees north latitude, where they discovered a country, which from its 
 white cliffs they called No'va Albiony though it is now known by the name of 
 California." The ship had some time before sprung a leak. On the 17th of 
 June, the Admiral and his crew landed. The weather was cold and the 
 natives were miserably clothed. They brought presents to the English strangers 
 and at first would receive nothing in return. The kindness of Drake gradually 
 gained the confidence of these people. The females wore a sort of petticoat 
 composed of rushes, previously stripped into long threads resembling hemp. 
 They also wore deer-skins around their shijulders, and some of the men occa- 
 sionally used turs as a covering. On the 21st, the English landed their goods 
 and stores, that the ship might be repaired, which the Indians viewed with sus- 
 picion. They however laid aside their bows and arrows, and an exchange of 
 presents cemented the growing friendship. They retired apparently satisfied, but 
 had no sooner reached their hlits, which stood at a considerable distance, than a 
 general howling and lamentation commenced which lasted all night. For two 
 days following the" night of lamentation," no native appeared. At the end of that 
 
HISTORICAL NOTES. 33 
 
 time, a great number seemed to have joined the party first seen, and the whole 
 assembled on a height overlooking the fortified station of the ship's company, 
 and appeared desirous of approaching the strangers. A deputation of Indians 
 stuck their bows into the earth, and bearing gifts of feathers and rush-baskets 
 with taba/i, descended Cowards the ship. While this was passing below, the 
 women mixed with the group on the height, began to shriek and howl, to tear 
 their fiesh with their nails and dash themselves on the ground, till the blood 
 sprung from their bodies. This is said in the Famous ^'^oyagc^ to have been part of 
 their orgies of their demon-worship. It is said that Drake was so struck with grief 
 and horror, that he ordered divine service to be solemnized. On the 26th, two 
 heralds or pursuivants arrived at head-quarters, craving an audience of the cap- 
 tain-general on th» part of their h'wk or king. The precursors of majesty 
 harangued a full half-hour, and concluded by demanding tokens of friendship 
 and safe conduct for the chief. 
 
 (8). The approach of the hioh was well arranged and imposing In effect. 
 First, came the sceptre or mace-bearer as he is called. This officer was a tall 
 and handsome man of noble appearance. His staff or club of office was about 
 h\-G. feet in length, and made of a dark wood, to which was attached two pieces 
 of net-work curiously and delicately wrought of a bony substance, minute, thin 
 and burnished, and consisting of innumerable links with feathers of many 
 colors. These net-cauls or chains were supposed to be insignia of personal rank 
 and dignity akin to the crosses, stars, and ribands of civilized nations, the num- 
 ber of them worn denoting the degree of consequence, as the importance of a 
 pasha is signified by the number of his tails. The king followed his minister, 
 and in his turn was succeeded by a man of tall stature, with an air of natural 
 grandeur and majesty, which astonished the English visitors. The royal guard 
 came next in order. It was formed of 100 picked men, tall and martial-look- 
 ing, and clothed in skins. Some of them wore ornamented head-dresses made 
 of feathers or of a feathery down which grew upon a plant of the country. The 
 king wore about his shoulders a robe made of the skins of the marmot. Next in 
 
34 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 place in the national procession came the common people, every one painted, 
 though in variety of patterns, and with feathers stuck in the club of hair drawn 
 up at the crowns of their heads. The women and children brought up the rear, 
 carrying each as a propitiatory gift, a basket in which was either taba^ broiled fish, 
 or a root that the natives ate both raw and baked. Drake seeing them so 
 numerous, drew up his men in order and under arms within his little fortification 
 or block-house The procession halted and deep silence was observed, while the 
 sceptre-bearer, prompted by another official, harangued for a full half hour. 
 The address, whatever it might import, receiving the concurrent "oh " of the 
 national assembly, the same orator commenced a song or chant, keeping time in 
 a slow, solemn dance, performed with a stately air, the king and all the warriors 
 joining both in the measure and the chorus. The females also moved in the 
 dance but silently. Drake could no longer doubt of their amiable feelings and 
 peaceful intentions. They were admitted, still singing and moving in a choral 
 dance within the fort. The orations and songs were renewed, and the chief 
 placing one of his crowns on the head of Drake, and investing him with the 
 other imagined insignia of royalty, tendered him his whole dominions, and 
 hailed him king, all of which the admiral with becoming modesty accepted, in 
 the name of the queen his sovereign. The natives worshipped their guests, and 
 it was necessary to check their idolatrous homage. The Indians surrounded and 
 gazed upon them, and then began to howl and tear their flesh, till they streamed 
 in their own bloodj to demonstrate the liveliness and strength of their affection. 
 The women were remarked to be good wives ; very obedient and serviceable to 
 their husbands. Droke spent thirty-six days at this place. On the 23d of July he 
 left the kind-hearted Indians, who bewailed the departure of their new friends. 
 "While the ship remained in sight, bonfires were kept burning on the heights." — 
 From 'various /i'ves of jidmiral Drake. 
 
 (9). *' The FaraUones de los Frayles were discovered by Ferelo in 1543. It is 
 said that Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo had passed them the previous year. The 
 islands are 23^^ miles from the Golden Gate. The highest peak is about 340 
 
HISTORICAL NOTES. 35 
 
 feet above the sea, presenting to the eye a mass of broken jagged rocks, upon 
 which no vegetation exists, except a few stunted weeds. A more desolate and 
 barren place can hardly be imagined. From the hills about the Golden Gate, 
 the south Farallun is plainly visible, rising in regular pyramidal form. The ship 
 Lucas was wrecked on this islet in a fog, Nov. 9th,-i85S, and 25 lives were 
 lost." — Da'vidson''s Report to the Superintendent of the U. S. Coast Sur-vey, 
 
 *' Upon these islands of three hundred and fifty acres, there is not a single tree 
 or shrub to relieve the eye by contrast, or give change to the barreness of the 
 landscape. A few weeds and sprigs of wild mustard, are the only signs of 
 vegetable life to be seen upon them." The Murre, or Foolish Guillemot, is a 
 clumsy bird, almost helpless on land, but is at home on the sea. It is an ex- 
 cellent swimmer and diver, and is very strong in the wings. Gulls steal the eggs 
 of the Murre, and the Farrallone Egg Company gather them for the San Fran- 
 cisco market, where millions of them have been sold. The bird of most varied 
 and beautiful plumage on the islands, is the Mormon Clrr/iatiiSj or Tufted 
 Puffin." — See Hutching^ Magazine, Vol. i. Nrj. 2., 1856. 
 
 { 10). *' The tower stands on the highest peak of the principal island. It is built 
 of brick, seventeen feet in height, and is surmounted by a lantern and illuminat- 
 ing apparatus of the first order oi the system of Fresnel. It Is a revolving white 
 light, showing a prolonged flash of ten seconds every minute throughout the 
 horizon. It is elevated about 360 feet above the mean level of the sea." — 
 Da-viiison^s Report U. S, Coast Sur'vey. 
 
 (11). In the following year, after the expulsion of the Jesuits, in lySjy 
 Father Junipero Serra, a Franciscan friar, with sixteen missionaries of his own 
 order, undertook the spiritual conquest of the Upper Province. '* This seraphic 
 and apostolic squadron " as Father Palou calls it, commenced their holy work, 
 and established the Mission at San Diego in 1769. 
 
 In a letter from the Father President to Father Palou, dated from Monterey 
 in 1770, he says, " On the third of June, being the holy day of Pentecost, the 
 whole of the officers of sea and land, and all the people assembled on a bank at 
 
^6 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 the foot of an oak, where we caused an altar to be erected, and the bells to be 
 rung J we then chaunted Veni Creator^ blessed the water, erected and blessed a 
 grand cross, hoisted' the royal standard, and chaunted the first mass that was ever 
 performed In this place j we afterwards sung the Saline to our Lady before an 
 image of the most illustrious Virgin, which occupied the altar, and at the same 
 time I preached a sermon, concluding the whole with a Te Deum." The Mis- 
 sion of San Francisco was founded in 1776. On the 9th day of November, 
 being the day of Saint Francis, a similar ceremony took place, respecting which 
 Father Palou remarks of the establishment and consecration of the Mission and 
 church of San Fernando, " the want of an organ and other musical instruments 
 was supplied by the continual discharge of fire-arms during the ceremony, and 
 the want of incense, of which they had none, by the smoke of the muskets." 
 Whips and sticks were freely used in bringing the perverse Indians *' from dark- 
 ness into light." **In the aisles and passages of the church, zealous beadles of 
 the converted race are stationed, armed with sundry weapons of potent influence 
 in effecting silence and attention, and which are not sparingly used on the re- 
 fractory or inattentive. These consist of sticks and whips, long goads, etc., and 
 they are not idle in the hands of the officials that sway them." — Forbes' Upper 
 California^ 
 
 La Perouse observes that a horrible representation of hell, in the church of San 
 Carlos, liad a wonderful effect in promoting conversion. In 1775, Father Garzes 
 carried with him a banner, on one side of whicii was painted the blessed Virgin 
 Mary, and the Devil in the flames of hell on the other. The whole pious farce 
 lasted about seventy-five years. The Fathers were good men, but under the cir- 
 cumstances, the Mission scheme in Upper California was a perfect failure. 
 
 (12). The Spanish power was overthrown in Mexico in 1S22, and a republi- 
 can form of rule adopted in 1824. The Indians were set free in California in 
 1826. The Fathers were stripped of their power and possessions and saw their 
 setting sun go down in 1S45, 
 
 {13). Fort Point. — "This was formerly a bold, narrow, jutting promontory 
 
HISTOKICAL NOTES. ' 37 
 
 of hard serpentine rock, 107 feet above high water, and surmounted by a small 
 Mexican fortitication called Fort Blauco. The whole headland has been cut 
 down to within a few feet of high water, and Increased in area to form a large 
 fortification, which is now mounted with guns of the largest range and calibre." 
 Dai'idsons' Report^ U. S. Coast Sur'vey. 
 
 (14.) See J. C. Fremont's "Narrative of the Exploring Expedition to the 
 Rocky Mountains in the year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the 
 years 1843-44." 
 
 (15). In 1840, strangers were seized and some of them put in irons, " In 
 April of that year, nearly one hundred individuals, American and British, of 
 every rank and profession in life, were seized and carried to Monterey, where 
 they were imprisoned, some of them In irons for a short time. No charge was 
 made against these people, yet they were treated as vilely as if they had been 
 condemned felons. A few were released, without explanation, at Monterey, and 
 the remainder carried as prisoners to Santa Barbara. There a few more were 
 released, again without explanation, while the rest proceeded, still prisoners, to 
 San Bias. There several others were discharged, and left to find their way back 
 to Monterey, without money, passports, or any assistance whatever. Those who 
 were still left were imprisoned for an indefinite time at San Bias, or sent to other 
 Mexican towns. A considerable number died from the severe treatment they 
 experienced J while it was fifteen months before the la^t ot tliem was set at 
 liberty." — See T/te Atmals of San Francisco. 
 
 (16). At Sonoma, from his headquarters, June 15th, 1846, William B. Ide 
 issued, what is known as the Bear Flag proclamation, in which he says that his 
 object is, " To overthrow a Government which has seized the property of the 
 Missions, for its individual agrandisement ; which has ruined and shamefully 
 oppressed the laboring people of California, by their enormous exactions on 
 goods imported into the country, is the determined purpose of the brave men 
 who are associated under my command." The garrison at that time, consisting 
 of eighteen men, was increased in a few days to about forty. The Bear Flag was 
 
38 THE GOLDEN GATE. 
 
 designed by H. L. Ford, and was painted with lamp bkclc and pole berries by 
 a man whose name was Todd. The muslin was contributed by Mrs. John 
 Shears. It has a peculiarly primitive appearance, and represents a grizzly bear 
 on his haunciics, with a star in front of him. Immediately below the bear is 
 the date 1846, and the words Republic of California. There is one red stripe 
 along the whole bottom of the flag, about hve inches in width. Its dimensions 
 are 5 feet 4 inches in length, and 3 feet 5 Inches in width. It was hoisted 
 on the same day and date of the proclamation, and was supplanted by the 
 flag of the United States, when the news was received of the capture of the 
 ports of Monterey and San Francisco. This old fashioned and revolutionary 
 relic can be seen by the curious, in the hall of the Society of California Pioneers, 
 where it is carefully preserved." — From documents in the Pioneer Hall. 
 
 (17). John Charles Fremont, holding a commission in the topographical 
 corps of engineers, arrived on the frontier of California, in the early part of the 
 year 1846. Being informed by the American Consul at Monterey, that Castro, 
 the Mexican General, intended to attack him, he took up his position on 
 Hawk's Peak, and with his company of sixty-two men, hoisted the flag of the 
 United States. 
 
 {18). On the yth of July, 1846, Captain Mervine and two hundred and 
 fifty marines and seamen were sent by Commodore Sloat, to hoist the American 
 flag over Monterey, which was accomplished amid deafening cheers and roaring 
 guns. On the following day, Commander Montgomery, of the U. S. sloop of 
 war, Portsmouth^ landed with seventy sailors and marines, took possession of 
 Verba Buena, and hoisted the Union standard on the Plaza. 
 
^^M