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 A TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 WITH 
 
 A GLIMPSE OF AFRICA 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 GIBRALTAR ALGIERS NAPLES ROME PISA 
 
 FLORENCE VENICE ZURICH THE RHINE 
 
 COLOGNE THE HAGUE BRUSSELS 
 
 PARIS VERSAILLES LONDON 
 
 LIVERPOOL, AND OTHER 
 
 EUROPEAN CITIES 
 
 BY 
 
 JENNIE KIGHT NESBITT 
 
 Delegate from West Virginia to the World's Sunday 
 School Convention held in Zurich. 
 
 Herai,d Printing Housk, 
 
 Piedmont, W. Va, 
 
 19 14 
 
 &%%&%&&%&&%%&%&%%&&&&%&&&)& 
 
A TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 WITH 
 
 A GLIMPSE OF AFRICA 
 
 INCLUDING 
 
 GIBRALTAR ALGIERS NAPLES ROME PISA 
 
 FLORENCE VENICE ZURICH THE RHINE 
 
 COLOGNE THE HAGUE BRUSSELS 
 
 PARIS VERSAILLES LONDON 
 
 LIVERPOOL, AND OTHER 
 
 EUROPEAN CITIES 
 
 BY 
 
 JENNIE KIGHT NESBITT 
 
 Delegate from West Virginia to the World's Sunday 
 School Convention held in Zurich. 
 
 Herald Printing House, 
 
 Piedmont, W. Va. 
 
 19 14 
 
4 
 
 COPYRIGHT, 1<>14, BY 
 JENNIE KIGHT NbCSBlTT 
 
 AUG 27 1914 
 
 ©CLA3S030S 
 
 
A TRIP TO EUROPE 
 
 WITH 
 
 A GLIMPSE OF AFRICA 
 
 The trip across the Atlantic is such an everyday affair now 
 that it scarcely arouses comment outside of the immediate neigh- 
 borhood of the traveler. However, there is only one first time to 
 every new experience and 1 can conceive of no more inspiring 
 venture than the first trip across the water with a strange world 
 awaiting on the other side — a world of which you have dreamed 
 all your conscious life. 
 
 There are two classes of travelers on every ship— those who 
 have been over and those who have not — the seasoned sailor and 
 the "first tripper." If the latter is ambitious to get out all there 
 is in it he will not attempt to conceal his inexperience. The old 
 timer is generous with advice and information, from which the 
 novice may glean much that will come handy as he goes along. 
 
 For instance, it is something to know that the higher you are 
 in the superstructure the more perceptible the rolling of the vessel. 
 Consequently a state-room and dining-saloon at a lower level are 
 more conducive to a comfortable voyage. 
 
 It is well to know that a steamer chair placed in a sheltered 
 spot amid ship means comfort on deck. At sea one eats and sleeps 
 under cover, but lives in the open. The wise prepare for outdoor 
 life with wrap and rug, even for the southern tour. 
 
 The voyage of which I write may be of interest to the exper- 
 ienced traveler because of its unusual character." Not often do four 
 hundred people for one purpose and for one destination assemble on 
 one vessel for a journey of 12000 miles. The great World Sunday 
 School Convention at Zurich, Switzerland, was the common interest 
 that soon changed a crowd of strangers into one great, jovial, busy 
 family. 
 
There were hours for preliminary work for the convention, to 
 which earnest attention was given, but the games on deck were as 
 absorbing in their turn as were the lectures in the saloon. The 
 social life was as cheery as the home-coming of a divided family. 
 
 Every detail of the tour had been perfected before we sailed. 
 From Boston hack to Boston every day's needs had been provided 
 for and prices fixed by the transportation committee of the Sunday 
 School Association. At Naples the complete itinerary was put into 
 the hands of an experienced tourist manager for execution. 
 
 Eight vessels sailed from North America with chartered 
 accommodations for delegates, each giving a different tour. I 
 selected the White Star Liner "Canopic" because of the friends I 
 would meet and because it gave the Mediterranean trip early in the 
 season. Other vessels took the northern route going, returning 
 through Italy. A shorter tour was via Cherbourg, France, to 
 Zurich. One party sailed May first to the Holy Laud and Egypt, 
 returning via Naples to the convention. Still another company of 
 twenty-nine headed by Mr. Heinz, of Pittsburg, left San Francisco 
 March first. They constituted a committee of inspection, visiting 
 the mission schools of Hawaii, Philippines, Japan and China. They 
 reached Zurich via the Siberian railroad. This committee was 
 cordially received by the rulers of the countries visited and shown 
 every courtesy. They held conferences and conventions, learned 
 actual conditions and found new needs. They paid their own 
 expenses. Nothing was drawn from any fund for this tour of 
 inspection. Their report at the convention was wonderful. 
 
 The Canopic party represented all denominations and all 
 sections of North America. Three were from Mexico, a large 
 number from Canada, the remainder from every section of the 
 United States. No one asked or seemed to care what religious 
 denomination claimed his neighbor. The honored guest was Bishop 
 Vincent, of the Methodist church. This venerable man was cared 
 for most tenderly by Dr. Bucher and son, of Cincinnati. 
 
 A number of the American officers of the association were 
 aboard. These leading men are wealthy laymen who spare neither 
 themselves nor their money in working out their theory that the 
 regeneration of the race should begin with the training oi'' the 
 children. That it is easier to mold character in the making than 
 to reform that which was spoiled in the making. 
 
The sea is a never ending vet ever varying source of delight. 
 The green of the coast changes to the deep sea blue as we recede 
 from land, and the white spray thrown up from the rush of the 
 vessel falls hack in sparkling irridescent hues. 
 
 To get the fall enjoyment of it all one should sit alone some- 
 times in a quiet spot, and let the shining moonlit sea tell the story 
 of ages upon ages of just such nights as have passed under the will 
 of the same God whom we love and who cares for us, and of the 
 marvelously perfect system that prevails in the ordering of every- 
 thing from the life cycle of the microcosmic organism in the caves 
 and on the rocks a mile beneath your feet, to the remote stellar 
 bodies whose paths in space are fixed and absolute. Such a quiet 
 hour brings a sense of security and peace that over-rides fear and 
 brings a night of restful sleep. 
 
 LIFE ON THE OCEAN WAVE. 
 
 The first development of social life on shipboard is along the 
 line of least resistance, afterward by natural selection. The first 
 thing in order is getting settled for living in the state room The 
 comfort of the voyage is a common interest here, and one naturally 
 establishes the first social relations with her room-mate. The 
 assigning of places at table follows. At each plate is found a full 
 passenger list which helps to associate names and faces. A blessing 
 preceded every meal. Mutual introductions marked the first seat- 
 ing. On deck our immediate neighbors were our next .acquaint- 
 ances. The address pin which had been attached to our jackets in 
 Boston was the only introduction necessary here. By this time 
 each one had quite a social circle. Later as taste became apparent 
 and personalities came to the surface, like almost unconsciously 
 sought like. Many ladies were traveling like myself, unattached 
 to any special company within their delegation, and as the voyage 
 progressed we naturally fell into little congenial groups. 
 
 The bugle calls for rising and meals reminded me of my brief 
 experience in military camp life. The days were busy ones. At 
 9:30 every morning a short devotional service was held, consisting 
 of a hymn, a scripture reading and a prayer. Attendance of course 
 was optional, but it was seldom neglected. The well-filled library 
 attracted the more studious, the writing room was filled all day in 
 preparing the home letters to be ready for the return ship in the 
 harbor of Ponta Delgada. The walking matches, races, shuffle- 
 
board and quoits filled in the leisure morning hours, interrupted 
 only by the light luncheons passed about by the deck steward. 
 This never seemed to affect the appetite for the noon lunch, but 
 Befved as an appetizer. 
 
 The afternoon hours were filled in with the inevitable writing, 
 reading, dozing on deck, fancy work, and of course incessant chatter 
 everywhere; until the bugle announced the time to dress for dinner. 
 
 Early in the voyage a delightful reception was given by the 
 officers of the association and their wives. On this occasion every- 
 body donned gala attire and had a good time. Dr. Bucher, who 
 went out as music director for the convention, organized a male 
 sextette. These with the ship orchestra, several fine pianists and 
 two "queens of song" aboard, were most generous with their gifts 
 for our entertainment. Every evening noted an event of general 
 interest. The preparatory work for the convention was made so 
 interesting that no one wanted to miss it. 
 
 Dr. Adams, of Schenectady, N. Y., gave a lecture on Hark 
 Twain. Having been a personal friend of the great humorist he 
 gave us a new point of view of him. 
 
 Dr. Bucher gave an evening on the History of Church Music. 
 Two fine readers delighted us with their talent, and never seemed 
 to tire of the frequent calls for them. The young people gave an 
 evening of charades, pantomime, recitations and music. 
 
 A stunt evening was announced and each delegation was 
 requested to prepare one number. Canada gave their national 
 song, "The Maple Leaf." It was sung as a solo by a handsome 
 boy often years, draped in their flag, the delegation joining in the 
 chorus. Rev. Chas. Phipps, of Oregon, gave a vivid picture of 
 his work in the mining camps. A lady from North Dakota gave a 
 song of her own composition. California presented a company of 
 typical sight-seers from the east. It was very amusing. Mexico 
 *\ni; in Spanish. The Southern states combined and gave us a 
 "Social Evening in the Quarters." They dressed the part, black- 
 ing up and all. It was evident there had been foraging among the 
 crew and possibly in the steerage for costumes. An exaggeration 
 of their natural tones and their familiarity with negro dialect made 
 the imitation perfect. The turbaned mammies trotted the picka- 
 ninnies to crooning lullabies, spanked the refractory without 
 
MESSMATES 
 
missing a note or measure, as they swayed their bodies in rhythmic 
 harmony with the old "befo' dc wall" melodies. 
 
 Between times they gossiped freely of Ihe days experiences 
 and brought down the house with hits at leading people aboard. 
 A hitherto digniHed college professor appeared as a wiry, raw-boned 
 field hand whose ready wit enlivened the affair wonderfully. The 
 banjo twanged an accompaniment to solo and weird shrill chorus. 
 
 It was a resurrection of by-gone times that to some of us was 
 pathetic as well as irresistibly funny. To others who only knew of 
 such things remotely it was a perfect revelation. One little lady 
 from Alabama received quite an ovation at the close, and finally 
 broke away from the crowd by promising to ask "fo ten minits at 
 Zurich? Yes, sah ! I sho' will." And sure enough she appeared 
 on the programme there, her proper self however, with a most 
 interesting report of her work as secretary of her state. 
 
 New York gave the history of the city in pantomime. First 
 came the Indians, feathers, tomahawks, papcoscs and all. These 
 were crowded off the stage by the Dutch also in costume. Then 
 the English hustled the Dutch aside and took possession. During 
 this period colonial ladies simpered behind fans, and men in knee- 
 breeches, tri-cornered hats and long waistcoats ruled the roast. 
 The following periods showed up a motley crowd, — the Irish laborer 
 with his family fresh from the sod, the Jew peddler, and the pawn- 
 broker with his three gilt balls (oranges.) This character was 
 presented in the person of a professor from Vassar, who looked the 
 part to perfection. There were Italian laborers too with pick and 
 shovel. The procession ended with a swarm of emigrants of every 
 nationality, herded by a big Irish policeman and a fat Tammany 
 politician. 
 
 Every feature of this entertainment was so interesting that 
 the "wee small hours" were almost on us before we knew it. To me 
 the fact was clearly demonstrated that it takes brains to have a 
 good time. Of course where mental activity is lacking substitutes 
 must be found. 
 
LAND, HO! 
 
 As we neared the Azores, U. S. stamps were sold us for mail- 
 ing our letters in Boston Land was in sight early in the morning. 
 To inexperienced eyes nothing was visible in the horizon but what 
 seemed a long bank of low lying clouds. After a while this 
 assumed shape as headlands which we skirted for a couple of hours 
 before coming into the harbor of Ponta Delgada on (he Island St. 
 Michael. Here our huge mail was transferred by boat to the 
 Cedric which passed out as we sailed in. 
 
 These islands belong to Portugal. It was the first glimpse of 
 a foreign land to many of us, and so foreign was this first appear. 
 ance that there was no mistaking it for anything we had ever seen 
 before. The land rcse directly from the water to the top of a 
 mountain, giving a clear view of the city and surrounding country. 
 Along the water front the houses were tall, square, flat roofed and 
 pierced by many small windows, evidently ware-houses and oilice 
 buildings. Back'from this they rose tier upon tier, rarely more 
 than two stories and all of a dazzling lightness. Cream, white, 
 pale pink and blue were the predominating colors. Never a spot 
 of dark color visible except in the foliage of trees and shrubbery. 
 The town was surrounded by vineyards and pineapple farms. 
 Wine and pineapples are almost the only exports. 
 
 We anchored out in the harbor and a gang was thrown down 
 the ship side to the water edge. The health officer and other 
 officials came out in a light motor boat and came aboard. Then 
 followed a committee of church people who were expecting us. 
 Meanwhile the steerage was in commotion. A number of 
 Portuguese were to be landed here and the water about the stern 
 of the ship was filled with little dancing boats. Friends were 
 shouting greetings with frantic gesticulations. 
 
 We were rowed ashore in a fleet of small boats manned by 
 native boatmen. The passage down that steep gang and the trans- 
 fer to the bobbing, dancing boats below seemed somewhat perilous, 
 but every care was taken by our officers and we made the trip in 
 safetv. We landed at an ancient quay built of huge granite blocks. 
 It looked as though it had been built for all time. Stone steps led 
 down to the water edge and another hold-your-brcath transfer was 
 
 3ary. 
 
The missionaries led the way direct to the mission building 
 where the native congregation was waiting to receive us. They led 
 us first through a roughly paved business street filled with a 
 swarthy, unkempt, weather beaten crowd of curious natives— not 
 the elite by any means Beyond, the streets grow narrow with 
 side-walks about two feet wide. The houses present a solid wall to 
 the street, broken only by an occasional doorway. In the better 
 homes these doors lead into a court yard around which the home is 
 built. In houses of two stories the windows are in the upper stories 
 opening on hinges inward. Every window has its window box of 
 gorgeous bloom. No hut too lowly for flowers. 
 
 At the mission buildings we found the interior crowded and an 
 assistant native pastor holding an overflowing meeting in the out- 
 side inclosure. He was a fine looking, well dressed young man; 
 was evidently well educated and sincere. At the close of his 
 address, in which he gave the history of the mission, immense straw 
 platters of flowers were passed through the cro.vd, a beautiful 
 bouquet for each one there. 
 
 Outside along the curb was a line of carriages waiting patron- 
 age. Every horse looked like Don Quixote's steed, and every 
 driver was Sancho Panza. The harness was of leather, rope, 
 withes, or whatever was needed to piece out, and the vehicles, the 
 floatsam and jetsam of ages. My friend and I concluded to do our 
 sight-seeing afoot. 
 
 By invitation we visited our consul there, and found him a 
 courteous, genial gentleman, who with his handsome wife seemed 
 fitted for more pleasant surroundings. The home itself is all that 
 one could desire, but life in Fonta Delgada to an American must 
 be simply existence. 
 
 We visited the public gardens. Here the wonderful tropical 
 growth and gorgeous bloom made up for the squalor on the way 
 thither. There we met a family of natives, a mother and three 
 daughters, who invited a few of us into their home and let us see 
 how they lived. The floors were stone, the furniture old, rich and 
 massive. The girls were as slender and graceful as lilies. They 
 had clear olive complexions without a trace of color, and bright, 
 sparkling black eyes. Their manners were perfect, and a finer 
 hospitality I never met, though not a word they said could we 
 understand. We hardly needed to, so expressive were their faces 
 
and gestures. Our stay was necessarily short, but we carried away 
 a vivid picture of Portuguese at their best. 
 
 There seems to be no transition period in the lives of their 
 women. Toward evening we saw many well dressed people walking 
 or driving "in the lower town. The young are pretty, slender and 
 graceful, but there seems to be no well-rounded handsome middle- 
 life for them. They emerge from girlhood into either stolid, 
 swarthy, fat old age or into toothless, withered hags. The latter 
 are found among the ill-fed poor I conclude. My partner that day 
 was a tall, stout lady from Indiana, with a fair complexion and a 
 very high color. She seemed to attract attention. Glancing up at 
 a window we saw an elderly woman gazing at her, and patting her 
 own cheek she said, "prittee, prittce." 
 
 The ordinary means of locomotion in the town are high carts 
 perched on two huge solid wooden wheels, drawn by a donkey alto- 
 gether out of proportion to the load he is dragging. Donkeys 
 carrying huge basket panniers or great bundles of fagots that covered 
 them from ears to tail, ambled over the cobbles behind their pic- 
 turesque masters. Down in the wider streets automobiles driven 
 by dapper up-to-date young men, bounced over the stones in what 
 seemed to us very uncomfortable fashion. These were apparently 
 government oflicials out for an airing. 
 
 My friend and I wandered down to the cathedral near the 
 landing, and sat on the steps to wait for the reassembling of our 
 party for the return to the ship. Beggars swarmed all about us — 
 the most abject, forlorn creatures I ever saw. I looked about me 
 at the weary-eyed women, the pompous looking guards, the smooth 
 shaven priests, who only of that motley crowd looked clean, and 
 then across to the stately ship lying at anchor in the harbor, and it 
 looked like home to me. The return to it was made as we came, 
 without mishap, but a tired, footsore, yet satisfied crowd climbed 
 the gang that evening after this their first visit to a foreign land. 
 
1 
 
 x 
 
 X 
 
 .- 
 
FARTHEST SOUTH. 
 
 Two days out from the Azores we entered the harbor of 
 Funchal, Madeira. These islands arc also a part of Portugal. 
 When discovered by Portuguese navigators in 1420, they were 
 uninhabited and were turned over to a religious order for coloniza- 
 tion. The interests of the church have been so faithfully subserved 
 that they have always been, of all Catholic countries, the most 
 devoted to its faith. 
 
 Columbus lived here when studying navigation and ocean 
 currents. Observing the strange vegetation they carried in, and 
 talking with the sailors, he became convinced that land lay to the 
 west. While here he married a daughter of one of the first settlers 
 who was then the first governor of the island. 
 
 The city rises from the water front, but not so abruptly as at 
 Ponta Delgada. Coining out from breakfast, we first sighted a 
 large French liner anchored in the offing. Seeing our people 
 hanging over the rail I stepped out to see what interested thecn. 
 Our vessel was surrounded by email boats each manned by two 
 native youths. One to manage the boat, the other stripped to his 
 bathing trunk. These knew enough English to shout: "Dive fo' a 
 quatah, lady," "Dive fo' a quatah, sah," with the usual noise and 
 gesticulations to be found among Latin people. 
 
 Occasionally a piece of money was thrown down, then into the 
 water headforemost would go the nearest boy; disappearing entirely 
 from view he would bob to the surface, swim to his boat, climb in 
 and drop the coin into a box, his wet, brown body shining like 
 polished wood. From the promenade deck of a big liner to the 
 water is quite a distance, and the coin thrown must have gone far 
 below the surface. They plunged in as recklessly as porpoises, and 
 never failed to bring up the money. One brawny youth brought 
 the pieces up between his toes. 
 
 After the usual visit from port officials and of the church 
 committee, we were taken ashore in large motor boats. We were 
 landed at a large stone pier from which a wide avenue leads up to 
 the principal street of the city. This avenue is bordered with 
 immense shade trees which form an archway its entire length. On 
 each side are handsome buildings — hotels, stores and other business 
 houses. Here we had our first sight of out-door cafes in the clusters 
 of small tables and chairs grouped under the trees. 
 
The Madeira are famous winter resorts, the climate being 
 among the most equable known. As a result many natives in the 
 business section speak English, and the foreign section looks very 
 much like any other busy town. Automobiles are plentiful, but 
 we saw few English carriages. 
 
 There are several ways of getting about the town. One by 
 means of the sedan chair swung from two poles carried by two men 
 as seen in pictures, another is in a hammock carried in the same 
 manner. The most popular way is to ride in a sled drawn by an 
 ox. These sleds have very heavy wooden runners holding a 
 canopied and upholstered body which seats four people. This 
 strange vehicle is drawn by an ox led by a boy. The driver walks 
 behind him armed with a sharp stick with which to hasten the 
 movement of the animal. 
 
 The opera house had been opened by the mayor of the city for 
 the public reception of our party, and we were taken there direct 
 from the landing. This building presents a fine exterior, and the 
 interior is simply beautiful. Here the native church people and 
 the Sunday schools were assembled to meet us. The churches and 
 city government were each represented in the addresses of welcome 
 and our representatives were most happy in their responses. They 
 were given in English then translated for the benefit of the native 
 audience. The children sang delightfully. Our leaders had them 
 brought to the stage for their exercises, and those bright young 
 people received an ovation from that company of people from a 
 distant land, that must have raised their social status fifty per cent. 
 It certainly should have impressed upon their minds that the faith 
 they profess is an added dignity rather than something to be 
 ashamed of. 
 
 Old travelers had been assuring us that the toboggan trip 
 down the mountain was the one unique attraction of Funchal. 
 Consequently at the close of the exercises, West Virginia headed 
 for the starting place for the trip. Passing up a w T ide central 
 street 1 noticed two high stone walls extending through the center. 
 Looking over the side I saw down into a wide deep gorge apparently 
 the bed of a mountain stream. Here and there stone steps led 
 down to the bottom, and groups of women were washing clothes' at 
 the pools of water, spreading them on the rocks to dry. I imagined 
 the great, rushing torrent filling that gorge from wall to wall on 
 
its way to the sea when the tropical rains fall, and thought of the 
 wisdom of a municipality which, by these solid walls, once for all 
 warded oft' all danger of flood. Just then a voice behind me spoke 
 English. I turned and asked the name of the stream. "That, 
 madam, is the main sewer of the town." I passed on glad to know 
 I had no laundry for Funchal. 
 
 While waiting at the station for tickets for the mountain ride 
 I had time to make a mental survey of the situation. We were to 
 take a cable car to the top of the mountain and there be transferred 
 to a sled to coast down to the city. The only brake to this sled 
 was a stout stick in the hands of the guide. I don't care to coast 
 on snow at home, and bumping over bare earth and stones failed to 
 appeal to me. Neither do I "Shoot the chute" in my own country. 
 I certainly was not tempted to peril life or limb in a foreign land 
 for the sake of a new sensation. So I climbed into a queer vehicle 
 with some friends and explored the city behind three horses har- 
 nessed abreast. Afterward we took a ride in an ox cart and 1 felt 
 I had diversion enough for one day. 
 
 The wonderful hand embroideries found many purchasers 
 among our ladies. Post card sellers, flower girls and boys were 
 everywhere. The homes of the people present blank walls to the 
 street, but are overhung with gorgeous bloom and tropical foliage. 
 Glimpses of beautiful court yards through gateways made impres- 
 sions of luxurious life within. 
 
 We wandered down to the pier, taking observations as we 
 passed. The markets were filled with fruit and vegetables, many 
 of them strange to us, but so exposed to dust and flies that we 
 wondered where the visitor from sanitary regions obtained his food. 
 
 The coral sellers were most persistent. "Yes, lady, proper 
 coral, no imitation." At last my friend offered a quarter for a 
 string more than a yard long which was promptly accepted. The 
 English dress is seen everywhere. The most distinctive garment I 
 saw was the "capote." It is a large cape which covers the entire 
 figure. A huge hood resembling a monk's cowl is attached, cover- 
 ing the head and shading the face. I supposed it was the costume 
 of a religious order, but was told that it is in general use for street 
 wear when ladies find it inconvenient to remove the house dress 
 before going out. It is capable, like charity, of "covering a multi- 
 tude of sins." 
 
UpOD our return to the ship we passed through the crowd of 
 divers still shouting for patronage. The deck chairs were covered 
 with fancy work awaiting purchasers. The entrance to the cabins 
 had been locked and stewards were vigilant guards, but a few of 
 those wet, shining boys scrambled up the rigging like monkeys 
 and insisted on diving from the deck for a quarter. One actually 
 mule the plunge from the saloon deck and brought up the money. 
 
 The steamer whistle blew for departure, but a warning blast 
 from the French ship disclosed the fact that a belated boat-load was 
 bring left behind. The captain was visibly annoyed at the delay. 
 He declared it to be the first time he had failed to sail on schedule 
 time. 
 
 GIBRALTAR. 
 
 After leaving Madeira we caught the end of a storm that had 
 swept the Bay of Biscay. A rough sea and strong head-wind 
 impeded our progress, and in consequence, we reached Gibraltar 
 several hours late. The sailors attributed this misfortune to the 
 •'singing of hymns after night. It always brings bad luck, and 
 we'll be glad to get rid of these Sunday school people." Of course 
 the captain was not superstitious, but was inclined to the opinion 
 that adverse winds might be expected since the delay in leaving 
 Madeira. 
 
 At Gibraltar we were taken ashore in a large tender, but 
 arrived too late for the English church service there. Just across 
 the wharf a massive gate leads to the inside of the fortification. 
 We entered a large court surrounded by stone barracks with the 
 soldier very much in evidence; passing through, we came into the 
 English town, which, in consequence of the importance of the 
 harbor and of the presence of the garrison, has grown up at the 
 foot of the rock. 
 
 Everything has the appearance of solidity and permanence. 
 The streets were clean and well kept, and a Sabbath quiet prevailed. 
 Stores, postotiice and all other public buildings being closed, there 
 was no sign of business activity anywhere — not even a Greek ice 
 cream parlor open for Sunday refreshment. And yet the well- 
 dressed people on the streets did not seem to suffer in consequence. 
 If there had been time for a visit to the Spanish section, we would 
 doubtless have seen a marked difference in Sabbath observance. 
 
The mother country "remembers the Sabbath day to keep it holy" 
 abroad as well as at homo. 
 
 The day was warm, but by walking on the shady side of the 
 streets we were comfortable. Outside the gate, the wharf was alive 
 with boys selling New York papers; men with baskets of fruit most 
 temptingly arranged, were just as persistent as in the islands. The 
 strawberries were larger than our varieties. There were dates, 
 apricots, figs and other fruits to us unknown. Many of them came 
 from the near-by African coast. 
 
 As we sailed away we rounded the point which gives the view 
 of the rock made so familiar in pictures. Of course there were the 
 inevitable jokes about the Equitable advertisement. In its place I 
 noticed an immense smooth surface, like a mammoth tablet pre- 
 pared for advertising space. I was told that it is an artificial slope 
 of concrete, built to carry the rainfall to a great reservoir excavat- 
 ed at the base. From there it is pumped to the summit, and is the 
 only source of water supply for the heights. As no vessel could 
 land at the precipitous face of the rock, the supply could not be cut 
 off in time of siege. 
 
 We skirted the coast of Spain until we passed the city "of 
 Algeciras where, a few years ago, the powers in conference, settled 
 the troubles between Italy and Turkey over possession of Tripoli. 
 
 The evening service in the saloon, on this our second Sunday 
 afloat, was conducted by the Rev. Hamilton YVigle, of Nova Scotia. 
 The sermon was fine, and his tender, brotherly appeal to the young 
 to strive for the best things in life, was very impressive. In speak- 
 ing of the observance of the Sabbath, he referred with pardonable 
 English pride, to the respect for the day manifested in Gibraltar. 
 
 • During the entire sermon I noticed, at an open port, the face 
 of our young dining-saloon steward. On the way to my room after- 
 ward I met him, and asked how he liked the service. "Did you 
 see me ? I didn't lose a word of that sermon. I tell you it touched 
 a tender spot. It took me back to England and my mother whom 
 I saw last two years and a half ago, and it's the first sermon I have 
 heard since then." 
 
 "Don't you have Sunday service at sea?" I asked. "Yes" he 
 replied, "the purser reads the English service as required by law, 
 but not over fifty people go to hear it. I've been on the Canopic 
 five years, and this is the first voyage in that .time that has had 
 
sermons. I tell you," he went on to say, "this trip is peculiar. 
 These people are unlike the usual crowd. There's no grumbling 
 and kicking among them. Everybody seems pleased with what is 
 done for their comfort, and they are all so friendly and kind. These 
 are Christian people, all right I" 
 
 I bad noticed the interest of the officers in the "doings" of the 
 company, especially in the evenings, and it was gratifying to know 
 that the impressions made were favorable, and abiding to the end 
 of the cruise. 
 
 ALGIERS. 
 
 Our next landing was at the city of Algiers, Africa. The 
 French are in possession here. France has a record for benevolent 
 colonization. Unlike some of her neighbors, she never enriches the 
 home government at the expense of her colonies. She spends the 
 revenue from each in its own development. Not as a philanthropy 
 simply, but to make it a more valuable possession. 
 
 It was qiytc late in the afternoon when our ship entered the 
 harbor, and a little steam tug dragged the pontoon bridge to its side 
 and connected with the wharf. We grudged the time thus con- 
 sumed, but it made an easy landing for us.' My first view of the 
 Mohammedan, was the sight of a group of Arabs in white turbans 
 and voluminous robes, standing on the end of the breakwater away 
 out to sea motionless as statuary, gazing at the incoming vessel. 
 The sight was impressive — Christianity invading Islam, and Islam 
 powerless to prevent Then came to my mind as I gazed, the cry 
 of Ahab to Elijah, "Hast thou found me, O mine enemy !" For if 
 there is a superlative hatred, it is that of the Mohammedan for the 
 "Christian dog." Before leaving the ship we had been told to wear 
 no exposed jewelry, and above all things, to keep together. There 
 must be no straggling. 
 
 Long lines of carriages awaited us at the wharf, and after seeing 
 the line buildings and well made streets of the French portion of 
 the city we were driven through the Arab section. We sa.v here 
 the dusty mosques, the flowing robes of these children of the desert, 
 who scarcely turned their sullen faces toward us as we passed, the 
 veiled women, and the queer shops with their more peculiar wares. 
 
 Daylight was about gone when we started afoot to visit the 
 school of the mission. The streets leading down to it were steep, 
 roughly paved, crooked, and so narrow that three persons abreast 
 
touched the walls on either side. The homes open into the street 
 without doors, and the onlj' light we had part of the way was from 
 these interiors. We brushed by men lounging about these openings, 
 and s.iw the women busy inside preparing food over their brazier 
 fires. 
 
 As we neared the school building the way was only lighted by 
 candles placed by the missionaries here and there against the wall. 
 Away above us I could see a narrow strip of blue sky studded with 
 stars. I was not afraid for we were well cared for, but the entrance 
 to the school brought a sense of relief. It was a weird experience, 
 and no event of the tour stands out in my memory so vividly. 
 
 The pupils of the missions are in part the children of converted 
 Arabs. Some are waifs cared for by the mission. The enterprise 
 is financed by private contributions. Entering as we did at night, 
 from streets which were little more than crooked slits between walls, 
 we could form no idea of the outside appearance of the building. 
 We were ushered into a central room, from which opened the differ- 
 ent apartments used by the school. The young people were waiting 
 to receive us. We saw them at their various occupations — basket 
 weaving, lace making, spinning, drawing — and inspected their 
 school work, which was very creditable. Every one remarked the 
 difference between these bright-eyed, alert young people inside, and 
 the listless, apathetic children we had seen outside. They took 
 great pride in their accomplishments. A whole roomful of little ones 
 sang for us as sweetly as our ovvn children do. The stone walls 
 with arched openings instead of doors, the dusky faces about us only 
 lighted by flickering tapers, made up a weird scene which might 
 have been taken from the Arabian Nights. The grotto like ap- 
 pearance of the place gave one the feeling of being under ground. 
 
 We were hurried from this place down the steep, rough streets 
 to the central mission building. This had been originally the home 
 of a Moorish nabob, and was built in true Oriental style. The 
 court had been enclosed and turned into an assembly room. Here 
 we met the mission people and heard the history of the w r ork. 
 These faithful men and women had surely come through great 
 tribulation. First and always from the natives; for a time from 
 the French officials, who made their work almost impossible, until 
 they found their own efforts to make the Mohammedan a loyal 
 citizen, utterly futile. After that the missionaries were allowed to 
 
do their utmost. How these teachers maintained existence, to say 
 nothing of preserving health in such surroundings, can only be 
 explained as the result of faith in God. 
 
 Our moneyed people not only cased the burden not a little 
 thai night, hut the good ship carried away a few of those worn 
 women for rest, change and a visit to the great convention. 
 Another scurrying down stony steps brought us to a wide open 
 street in the French quarter, where our carriages were waiting to 
 take us hack to the "wharf. Our driver was the only n,egro I saw 
 thai night. He was grim, silent and as black as night. On the 
 pontoon, bcturbancd Arabs were displaying handsome Oriental 
 rugs and carpets. I imagine they found few purchasers, though 
 the articles were well worth inspection. 
 
 SUNNY ITALY. 
 
 The last day of the voyage was ideal. The Mediterranean was 
 perfectly calm; the deep blue waters were as smooth as a landlocked 
 harbor. Naples, the end of the cruise, was just beyond. Long 
 before the time for landing our belongings had been packed and 
 marked for inspection at the custom house, and all hands were on 
 deck, eager for the first view of the famous bay. The small islands, 
 which form the outline from the entrance to the crescent shaped 
 harbor, rear their fortified headlands like grim, vigilant sentinels, 
 with pretty villas nestling in bowers of green at their feet. As we 
 steamed up the bay, the city rose from the sea on three sides like 
 the tiers of a vast amphitheatre; high over all, Vesuvius raised its 
 lofty unconquered head from which a column of smoke rose straight 
 toward the sky. 
 
 Beautiful buildings, gardens of tropical beauty, monuments 
 and tombs, passed like a vast panorama as we slowly glided by. 
 Among the most note-worthy objects is the tomb of Virgil. It is 
 easily located by its mosque-like dome. 
 
 The experiences at the dock were not devoid of anxiety. A 
 long chute was raised to the main deck, and down its narrow length 
 went flying in swift succession, all the lighter baggage. A hard 
 push at the top sent suit-case, hand-bag, shawl-strap, to the man at 
 the hot loin; he tossed it. to the truck men, who trundled the totter- 
 ing heap toward the custom house. No serious damage resulted, 
 
but I was glad my wardrobe was packed in leather, instead of the 
 much recommended rattan. 
 
 After what seemed a long delay, we made our way down the long 
 gang-way, and hurried to identify our property. So slowly did it 
 arrive, and such a quantity was to be handled, that the process of 
 inspection seemed interminable. One of the Association secretaries 
 avised me to "find a comfortable place to rest and let the man who 
 was paid for it do the worrying." So I fell into line for the car- 
 riages outside, passing on the way my baggage all chalked up for 
 delivery at the hotel. As I passed an officer my hand-bag got a 
 chalking and my inspection was over without a question or the 
 turning of a key. Outside, while waiting for the "line-up," the 
 carriage steps were full of post card peddlers, every window showed 
 a handfull of card. "Only five centimes apiece !"— one cent— or 
 "only twenty-five centimes a set !" "One lira for all this, lady !" 
 Finally to get rid of the most persistent, a gentleman bought a 
 bunch. This made a target of him for the whole crew. The'effect 
 was very laughable, and by the time the carriages moved almost 
 every one in our bus had bought pictures. 
 
 We were driven through handsome streets, lined with fine busi- 
 ness houses and other public buildings. Our hotel was in a central 
 part of the city. Here the suave Italian was much in evidence 
 and we were shown through marble halls, up marble stairways to 
 our equally elegant rooms. Here the handsome rugs on the pol- 
 ished marble, were havens of safety to our unaccustomed feet. We 
 were luxuriously housed, the meals and service were fine, and 
 enough English was spoken for necessary use. 
 
 In the evening a few of us walked out to the shopping centre. 
 It proved to be an immense arcade, covered by a great glass dome. 
 Stores of all kinds opened into it, and the whole place was brilliantly 
 lighted with electricity. Well dressed people were passing in and 
 out the shops, taking ices in the cafes, listening to the concert in 
 the open all moving quietly and with the utmost decorum. It was 
 our first opportunity to contrast the quiet dignity of gentility in the 
 old civilization, with the noise and rush of the new. The difference 
 became more and more marked as we journeyed through Europe. 
 
POMPEII. 
 
 The next morning we went by train to Pompeii, seven miles 
 distant Oar first Bight of rural Italy, was of the market gardens 
 which always border large towns. These are remarkable for the 
 intense cultivation; not a foot of arable ground is wasted. Instead 
 of fences, boundaries are defined by some marketable growth. 
 Whore draining is necessary the ditches are the lines. All our 
 vegetables seemed to be grown, and others that were strange to us. 
 The country is level— a plain bordering the sea. Vesuvius rises 
 directlv from the plain, a solitary, elongated mountain that rises 
 near the centre into a lofty cone. As we approached, the road 
 passed through a bed of lava. It's great width and depth gave an 
 idea of the terrors of an eruption, but still little villages cling to 
 the lower slopes of the monster as if there were no smoldering fires 
 beneath them, nor threatening steam and smoke above. 
 
 We left the train at a combination of station, curio shop and 
 restaurant near the entrance to Pompeii. 
 
 Through the narrow stone gateway we entered upon an equally 
 narrow street, hardly wide enough to admit the passing of carts. 
 It was roughly paved with huge stones in which are seen the deep 
 ruts worn by the chariot wheels of long ago— proof at the threshold 
 of the great age of the city at the time of its destruction A. D. 03. 
 The side-walks are never more than two feet wide; they are raised 
 above the street, and the irregular heights and broken condition 
 make walking difficult. No modern vehicle could carry passengers 
 comfortably through the city. The houses open directly on the 
 streets. They are of stone, brick and concrete, now open to the sky, 
 of course, with nothing standing but the walls. But as all the 
 walls were of the same material, the division into rooms remains, 
 and the plans are easily discovered. Stone fixtures in many places 
 indicate the nature of the occupation. Stone trays and ovens mark 
 the bakery, stone mortars and pestles an apothecary shop; stone fire 
 places and implements for cooking mark the kitchen; stone vats the 
 wine shops. When another story was added the superstructure was 
 of wood. In the rain of stone and ashes which preceded the flow of 
 lava, this part was crushed into the more substantial rooms below, 
 in a measure protecting the lower interiors from the flood which 
 covered all. This doubtless made possible the recovery of the 
 works of art found in a fair state of preservation, and prevented the 
 
entire obliteration of the frescoes, and the mosaic floors of the 
 palaces, in many places the bright colors in the mural decorations 
 are preserved, and from them may be found a fair idea of the 
 customs and social life of the period. 
 
 The Italian government conducts the excavation, and great 
 care is taken to preserve everything of interest that remains. The 
 best preserved buildings are roofed over, the fragments of mosaic 
 floors are railed off. Corinthian columns are set in their places, 
 courts are grass sown, and shrubbery re planted. Our party was 
 photographed in the loggia of such a restored palace. All detached 
 articles of value are placed in the museum in Naples. 
 
 To me the most surprising discovery is that of the method of 
 supplying the city with water. It was brought from distant reser- 
 voirs through leaden pipes into their homes, supplying the house- 
 hold needs just as is done to-day. These pipes are still visible in 
 many places. They supplied the baths, both public and private, 
 and the many fountains, the points of attachment being still visible 
 in the stone basins and bath tubs. Verily there is "nothing new 
 under the sun." 
 
 The great rectangle called the forum, being open to the sky, 
 must have received the full force of the storm of mud and ashes. 
 Lines of broken columns and the crushed pedestals of statuary mark 
 its outlines. The pavement is still intact in places. Here the 
 enterprising photographer rounded us up for another picture. 
 
 Pompeii was a great city, the home of wealth and culture; an 
 historic fact which the excavation confirms. It was originally a 
 seaport, but the shore lines have receded so far, that only recently 
 has the site of the ancient harbor been discovered. Only a small 
 portion of the ruins have been exhumed, but so great an area has 
 been opened, that days would be required to make the complete tour. 
 
RETURNING TO NAPLES. 
 
 Returning to Naples carriages met us at the station to carry 
 tis over the city. The first to greet us in Italy, and the last to 
 leave us on the continent, was the post-card peddler. Next in order 
 came the seller of mosaics. Naples is noted for its hand-made 
 mosaics and its cameoes. The latter however are not sold on the 
 streets. These peddlers meet you at the hotel door, follow you to 
 your carriage, and until the driver cracks his whip they recommend 
 their wares in voluble Italian and murdered English. At the end 
 of the drive, the same swarm _ apparently — bobs up from some- 
 where, with the same insistence. 
 
 To lend variety, bright-faced, black-eyed boys dodged in and 
 out, with the southern shrug, and out-stretched hands for "monie, 
 lady, monie!" At Madeira they told us the worst beggars had been 
 locked up for the day of our visit. I was glad the same vigilance 
 had not been exercised in Naples, for this experience with peddlers 
 and the boys was quite interesting, being part of the show. If a 
 courteous municipality had locked up the fleas, their thoughtfulness 
 would have been appreciated. I seemed to be immune, or perhaps 
 Providence took special care of me, but others of our party carried 
 away mural decorations not listed in the art catalogues. 
 
 We were taken through the sections of the city where the 
 working people live. Following the. wider ways where only two 
 vehicles could pass between curbs, we saw their places of business. 
 All were open to the street. We saw the butcher preparing his 
 meats for sale, the baker at work in the dough, the basket maker 
 weaving his rattan, the seamstress rattling the sewing machine. 
 Looking up the cross streets where nothing but a donkey cart could 
 pass we saw women sitting out sewing, knitting lace, preparing 
 vegetables for the meal, washing clothes, while over head line upon 
 line of clothes flapped in the wind, stretched from window to window 
 across the chasm between the tall houses. The streets are well 
 named "via," for they are simply a "way." Smiling faces greeted 
 us every where, some times a cheery word came which of course was 
 lost on us. Little children welcomed us with the peculiar beckon- 
 ing hand, instead of a wave as with us. Coming into higher ground 
 we saw the homes of the prosperous. These were well built and in 
 pretty grounds. We spent an exhaustive afternoon in the famous 
 museum. Here we saw the fossilized bodies recovered from 
 
Pompeii, and the wonderful display of art treasures from the buried 
 city. Afterwards we visited the ancient fortifications on the heights 
 
 from which we viewed the city and the bay. 
 
 We had all heard of the Italian sky, but viewing it in cloud 
 and in sunshine, morning, noon and night, we failed to see anything 
 finer than our own American expanse of cloudland and ethereal 
 blue. English people, accustomed to their murky uplook, are 
 responsible for the rhapsodies over the Italian heavens. 
 
 RURAL ITALY. 
 
 From Naples to Rome our route lay through the plain border- 
 ing the Mediterranean. The nearby market gardens were inter- 
 spersed with small groves of a species of bamboo, used in the 
 manufacture of fishing rods, chair-bottoms and basketry. 
 
 The homes of the peasantry reminded me of the pictures of 
 Nazareth. They are low stone structures, built of cobble set in 
 cement. Some are covered with stucco, and occasionally we saw 
 one of brick with stucco finish. The steep thatched roofs extend in 
 long ragged eaves. Windows are set high, are few in number, and 
 are often mere slits in the walls. If glass is used they swing inward 
 on hinges. The better sort have two stories. The upper one is 
 reached by a stone stairway built against an outside wall. These 
 have tiled roofs, and are mostly seen in the villages about the rail- 
 road stations. 
 
 The railroad north of Naples runs near the sea on the left, with 
 a wide plain stretching away on the right of the foothills of the 
 Appenines. The wonderful fertility of this valley is remarkable 
 when we consider the ages in which it has been under cultivation. 
 This soil has never been robbed. It has been nourished and kept 
 at its best. The signs of an abundant harvest were to be seen 
 throughout Italy. There are no worn out farms there, as in our 
 newer country, and every available spot is under cultivation — clean 
 intensive cultivation, such as is only seen in our country where the 
 foreign agriculturist uses old world methods. 
 
 The farms of Italy are peculiar. They are no larger than two 
 of our hill side town lots ; being almost rectangular in shape, and 
 in the coloring of various crops, they give the country a striped 
 appearance. 
 
Not a fence is visible. The separating lines are narrow, deep 
 ditches where drainage is necessary. Generally the farm is out- 
 lined bv mulberry trees set at regular intervals. These trees are 
 kept cut to a low growth, and all trunks are trimmed to the top, 
 where only a dense clump of foliage remains which casts a very 
 small shade. Grape vines are festooned from tree to tree with 
 mathematical precision. In the openings beneath a row of vegeta- 
 bles grows usually beans, or some variety that requires protection 
 from the sun. This presents a very pleasing appearance as one 
 passes through the country, though an artistic effect is not the 
 purpose of it all. This fence repairs itself with little help, fixes a 
 boundary, and provides three marketable crops— mulberry leaves 
 tor the silkworms, grapes and the vegetable. 
 
 Men and women work side by side in the fields, using the most 
 primitive implements. No horses are used, just oxen and donkeys. 
 The domestic life of the farm is confined to a limited space. The 
 house, barn, stable and well, are all huddled together, and enclosed 
 bv a stone wall. Outside is a garden. Sanitation is evidently not 
 considered, but this is an outdoor people, and space is valuable. 
 
 The noon hour found our train — a special — at a large station 
 where lunch was served. It came to each one in a pretty rustic 
 basket which contained bread and unsalted butter, a ham sandwich, 
 a slice of roast beef, chicken, two eggs, cheese, cake, an orange, 
 peaches— every article wrapped daintily in parafiine paper — a paper 
 napkin, knife, paper cup and a bottle of wine. The food was ex- 
 cellent, but wine to American Sunday school people was a joke, and 
 caused much merriment without the drawing of a cork. I suspect 
 the porters had a jollification, as it was all left in the train, When 
 lunch was served en route afterward, a bottle of spring water came 
 instead of wine. 
 
 During the morning a waterspout at sea and an aeroplane high 
 over the plain att raced attention. There are groves of olive trees, 
 and the farm yards are usually shaded by other fruit trees. Away 
 in the distance toward the mountains umbrella pines are seen. 
 These stand in clumps ; their tall straight trunks are as devoid of 
 foliage as a mast, except for the spreading top which gives the tree 
 its name. 
 
ROME. 
 
 Gazing out upon the landscape, fearing to lose a single feature 
 of this view of the old world, a broken line of lofty arches come in 
 sight, " O, the old Roman aquaduct !" I cried. J knew then we 
 were passing through the Campagna and nearing the "Eternal 
 City." Then I saw a line of broken pedestals, with here and there 
 a tower in ruins, or the remains of a monument or a tomb ; this 1 
 knew to be the Appian Way, over which Paul traveled on his 
 journey to Rome. I was unable to locate the Three Taverns where 
 his friends from the city met him, though we skirted the famous 
 high way for a long distance. It is still a well kept thoroughfare. 
 
 In Rome we passed through a fine modern station to the wait- 
 ing carriages and were driven through a handsome modern city to 
 our hotel. The most impressive sight on our way — to me at least, 
 who could not readily connect anything with Rome but antiquity — 
 was the beautiful subway through which we were driven. It passed 
 under the Quirinal, the royal palace and grounds. This was once 
 the home of the Popes, but is now occupied by the royal family ; 
 the Pope having retired to the Vatican. This subway is a wide 
 arch enclosing wide sidewalks, with street car tracks and carriage 
 way between. Its walls are covered with a glistening, creamy tile 
 molded in beautiful patterns. The electric lights are so arranged 
 as to give the effect of subdued daylight. 
 
 Our hotel here was a repetition of marble walls, columns, stair- 
 ways and floors. The furnishing was complete, the cooking and 
 service left nothing to be desired. The shopping district being near, 
 our ladies scattered to find Roman pearls, silks, and antiquities. In 
 one store I met a handsome woman from Ala'bama, who greeted us 
 in our own tongue. We were known on sight everywhere as 
 American ; never once being taken for English even. How we were 
 distinguished we never discovered. Even in London where to me, 
 everybody had the same appearance, they knew us before a word 
 was spoken. This lady from Alabama gave us some useful informa- 
 tion, and of course was quite eager for American patronage. We 
 found her prices not reduced to us in the least. 
 
 Next morning our guide, a polished Italian scholar, was on 
 hand early to take charge of his section of sight-seers. We were 
 taken first to the Pantheon, the only building of ancient Rome not 
 
now m nun: 
 
 It was built by Agrippa '21 B. C, and was first a 
 beathen temple, afterward consecrated to hero worship ; at one time 
 a fortification, and then changed to a Christian church ; to this fact 
 it doubtless owes its preservation. It is a targe circular building, 
 
 with walls of hewn stone surmounted by a huge dome, which is two 
 feel wider than thai of St. Peters. There are no windows, the light 
 coming from the dome. Now it seems reserved for the burial place 
 of noted people. Raphael lies here, his resting place is marked by 
 a magnificenl tomb. Emmanuel and Humbert both lie here. Since 
 the establishment of the United Kingdom, this building, instead of 
 the church, seems destined to be the burial place of royalty. 
 
 The drives through the city were as interesting as the buildings 
 we visited. Everywhere are beautiful fountains, monuments, 
 memorial arches, statuary, both ancient and modern. A life time 
 could be spent in studying its history and unraveling its traditions. 
 There are three hundred and sixty churches, every one commemor- 
 ating a saint, or some important event in the history of the church. 
 Every one is built for all time, and is rich in adornment. The 
 ancient buildings of state are owned and controlled by the present 
 government, though all art treasures were removed, years ago, to 
 the Vatican galleries. 
 
 St Peters is easily recognized from its pictures. The entrance 
 to the front is through the gate of an immense colonnade which 
 encloses a wide plaza, but on three sides the main building is so 
 closely surrounded with other buildings, that it is hard to form an 
 adequate idea of its immensity. The inside area is so broken by 
 immense columns, high altars, elaborate memorials, screens, statuary 
 and chapels, that all sense of unity is lost, and one has the feeling 
 of passing from one highly decorated edifice to another; from chapel 
 to throne room; from monuments to the dead and place of entomb- 
 ment, to the treasure house of the gorgeous regalia of the living. 
 
 Our guide told us frankly that the glory of St. Peters lies in 
 its architecture and wealth of adornment; but that the highest 
 expression of art was not found in its pictures or statuary. Not 
 one of the pictures which adorn its walls is an original. Every 
 one is a copy— without exception, a wonderful copy— in mosaic. 
 Xo paint has ever touched St. Peters. Everything there is made 
 as nearly indestructible as possible. 
 
 The statuary has been placed, in different periods, by Ecclesi- 
 
astic selection and authority, and as the artistic souse is as varied 
 in church officialdom as elsewhere, a variaty of tastes, and many 
 degrees of excellence are represented. 
 
 The Vatican is the great treasure house of art in Rome. Here 
 we saw nothing but originals, gathered from the ruins of ancient 
 Greece, from excavated Roman villas, and from conquered provinces 
 when the Roman government ruled the known world. The master- 
 pieces of the medieval age are found here. There are hundreds of 
 rooms in the Vatican. Its great galleries and library oocupy a 
 large number of them, and the Pope's large following, including the 
 famous Swiss guards are also housed there. That portion adjoining 
 his own private apartments was closed at the time of our visit, to 
 insure quiet, because of his failing health. We had a fine view of 
 the garden from one of the galleries. 
 
 The Sistine Chapel with its wonderful paintings by Raphael 
 was open for visitors. It belongs to the Vatican, but is connected 
 directly with St. Peters. 
 
 The church of St. John Lateran is remarkable for its age, and 
 for the colossal statues of the Apostles. Here is preserved the table 
 on which the Last Supper was served, and under the altar the 
 heads of Peter and Paul are placed. We did not see these relics, 
 nor the remains of the cradle of Christ in St. Mary Maggiore near 
 by; we were told they were there by the custodians. The Sacred 
 Stairway is quite near St. Johns. It is long and wide. The 
 original steps have a protecting cover. At its base are two groups 
 in marble, one on either side, representing the betrayal of Christ in 
 the kiss of Judas, and Christ before Pilate. Half way up the stair- 
 way was a group of women in black, climbing step by step, on their 
 knees, and pausing on each step for a prayer. Coming out, beggars, 
 sore-eyed, ragged, old and haggard, mumbled with out stretched 
 hands, while behind us was that scene of painful, pathetic devotion. 
 
ANCIENT ROME. 
 
 The official guides of Rome are scholarly gentlemen, licensed 
 by the government after rigid examination. Everything of public 
 interest, outside of the churches, belongs to the government. 
 Excavations are constantly revealing interesting objects of antiquity 
 which are carefully preserved in the National Museum. From this 
 vast collection the whole history of Italy might be restored if all docu- 
 mental evidence were destroyed. There is no attempt to rebuild 
 the ruins, but sufficient restoration is made to preserve the identity 
 and to prevent further destruction. Enough of the Coliseum 
 remains to make plain its size, shape and purpose. The walls are 
 of massive hewn stone and were held firmly by great iron bolts. 
 After the power of Rome was broken and this great building had 
 fallen into disuse it became a quarry for building material, other- 
 wise it is probable the whole structure would still remain. The 
 walls are blacke*ned with age, except where a restoration supports a 
 broken arch or defines an entrance. When iron became scarce in 
 the city the bolts were gouged out of the walls; this adds materially 
 to the appearance of decay. 
 
 The great arena is grass grown and strewn with broken stone. 
 We saw tier upon tier for the spectators, the seats for the patrician 
 around the dais for the Emperor, the opening to the dens below, 
 from whence came the wild beasts, and. the door through which the 
 martyrs passed whose blood shed here "became the seed of the 
 church." In such surroundings the mind easily ran back to the 
 age when a mutinous, suffering people were diverted and controlled 
 by such scenes as were enacted here. 
 
 Capitoline Mill is now, as of old, the heart of the city. Here 
 the business of the government is still conducted. Opposite is 
 Palatine Hill, the seat of the palaces of the Caesars. This was the 
 site of the original settlement; the city grew up around it. Here 
 we saw a remnant of the wall of Romulus; above it were the dwell- 
 ing places of kings and nobility. As these grew in number and 
 expanded, strong arches were built on the hillsides instead of 
 foundation walls, and palaces spread themselves above. These 
 arches covered wide passage ways, with stone steps leading to streets 
 and interiors above. Nothing remains of all this ancient glory but 
 crumbling walls, the outlines of gardens that were once the acme of 
 outdoor beauty, the private forum where royalty disported itself 
 
apart from vulgar gaze, broken columns, ami all the marks of fallen 
 greatness. From the wall of an old garden we looked down the 
 precepitous side of the hill into the Forum; that great open space 
 where public questions were discussed, the place of trial before a 
 court of justice, and the place of proclamation. Here is the sacred 
 way through which the conqueror made triumphal progress to 
 sacrifice to the gods. Here is the temple where the vestal virgins 
 guarded the sacred fire upon the altar. All now in ruin. The 
 places are marked by broken walls and columns, grass-grown foun- 
 tains, and crumbling pedestals from which the statuary has long 
 since been removed. Patches of marble pavement are seen here 
 and there. Some triumphal arches are still in a fair state of pres- 
 ervation, notably that of Titus commemorating the conquest of 
 Jerusalem. Just beyond is the Mamertine Prison where Paul was 
 confined, and looking across the city from the hill, we saw the 
 church built on the site, outside the city, where he met death. All 
 useless debris is cleared away from these ruins, so that no difficulty 
 is encountered in getting through them. The authorities leave 
 nothing undone in the interest of historical research — and of so 
 much per head. The latter consideration is evidently quite an 
 addition to the revenue. 
 
 In my early reading of the persecution of Christians under 
 Nero, I had unconsciously, confused the catecombs with the ancient 
 quarries outside the city, where they assembled for worship. I was 
 surprised in consequence, when our drive to the catecombs took us 
 out the Appian way to the open plains. We left the carriages at a 
 gateway, and walked through what seemed to be a large cultivated 
 field. A shaded roadway led up to a small one-story building, with 
 a covered booth attached, where rosaries, crucifixes, post cards and 
 souvenirs were exposed for sale. 
 
 One of the young priests in charge who spoke English — or 
 thought he did, for it was almost as unintelligible to us as his 
 native tongue— gave each of us a wax candle for the descent. Our 
 party conductor gave careful directions before descending. He 
 explained that this was an ancient cemetery for royalty. That way 
 back in the days of the earliest kings, jewels were buried with their 
 dead; and to prevent the robbing of the graves by invading tribes, 
 this place of burial was excavated in the solid rock beneath the 
 plain — the small opening being carefully concealed. As Rome 
 
became mightier, the place was abandoned until the time of Nero, 
 when Christians hid themselves in its recesses to escape his cruel 
 rdiets. It is a perfect maze of low, narrow passage ways cut through 
 soft stone; so intricate that the simple turning of a corner may 
 menu complete bewilderment. The path is over rough hewn rock, 
 and the tombs are excavations in the side-walls. These openings 
 are (dosed with stone slabs, and on each is an inscription commem- 
 orative of the dead. No two paths seem to be on the same level. 
 Some descend quite deep. They turn and twist in every direction. 
 We were cautioned to keep our lights burning and on no account 
 lose sight of each other. A door in the small building opened 
 directly on a narrow, steep, stone stairway, down which we passed 
 in single file. We were conducted to the burial places of the most 
 eminent persons, but after the first attempt to understand the 
 remarks of the custodian, I discovered that the rude carvings them- 
 selves »ave more information. 
 
 o 
 
 The tapers we carried were the only lights we had, and the 
 path was so rough, with such frequent changes of grade and direc- 
 tion, that we were obliged to watch every step we made, as well as 
 to keep close to our next neighbor. Hence progress was difficult. 
 We were led to the larger excavations where the persecuted ones 
 hid themselves. These people had secret marks by which they 
 penetrated the labyrinth, and by which they fled to remote recesses 
 upon the approach of danger. Only by betrayal through a traitor 
 among them could they be followed. 
 
 We remained under ground long enough to form a general idea 
 of the place. Those who had read up before hand were soon ready 
 to turn toward fresh air and sunlight. Those who had not, pre- 
 ferred to pursue the investigation above ground. The field seemed 
 greener, the sunlight brighter, and the air sweet and refreshing 
 when we came out into it all again. I carried my candle home as 
 a souvenir of a grewsome experience. That men, women and 
 children maintained life in such a place, is in itself miraculous, and 
 vet an unfaltering faith carried them through the terrors of 
 dungeon, cross and stake. 
 
 We returned to the city by the Appian way, passing through 
 the ancient gate by which Paul and his friends entered Rome. On 
 the way several boys kept pace with the trotting horses, stopping 
 
only to turn an occasional "cartwheel" as dextrously as our own 
 boys, and with outstretched hands to beg for "inonie, monie." 
 
 SUNDAY IN ROME. 
 
 Sunday in Rome ! Such a Sunday too, as would have been 
 impossible thirty years ago. At nine o'clock we attended Sunday 
 school in the central building of the Methodist Episcopal church, 
 situated in the heart of the city. This great building is so con- 
 structed that all the offices of the church are conducted under its 
 roof. It is six stories high. On a corner facing a wide avenue, is 
 a large auditorium — the Italian church — which seats eight hundred 
 people, and is often crowded to the door?; there are also a large 
 Sunday school room, and the rooms for social gatherings. On 
 another street is the entrance to the American church, which 
 ministers to English speaking residents, students and to thousands 
 of tourists annually. The remaining part of the main floor is 
 occupied by offices of the Publishing House, the mechanical part of 
 that department being conducted in the basement. On the floor 
 above are apartments for those engaged in the work. Upon the 
 top floors are the Boys' College, and Reeder Theological School. 
 Three thousand copies of a weekly religious paper go out from this 
 press weekly, the editor being a gifted Italian pastor. They publish 
 a fine Quarterly; the official organ of the Y. M. C. A.; a Children's 
 Monthly, The Roman World, a weekly newspaper in English, 
 besides the New Testament, their hymnals and many hooks and 
 pamphlets. Within the four walls of this great building, have been 
 set in motion the three great forces — the Christian pulpit, the 
 Christian press and the Christian school. 
 
 The Sunday school room is as well furnished and equipped as 
 those of our cities. The school is as large as the average here; the 
 members as well dressed, just as bright looking, and finer order I 
 never saw in any assemblage. It was review day and in their 
 readiness in response they put to shame our own school in Piedmont. 
 They recited and sang as if the success of the school depended on 
 each individual effort, and how they seemed to enjoy it ! 
 
 Short addresses were made by our leaders through an inter- 
 preter, and a young boy of about* sixteen who spoke English, was 
 called to respond. He told us he was the son of an Italian minister, 
 the grandson of an Italian minister, and was preparing himself for 
 
the ministry. And then that school stepped oul into the aisles and 
 marched around the room in review carrying before them a big 
 Italian flag and singing their national hymn. It was an inspiring 
 occasion. They are not being trained to be Americans, nor Eng- 
 lishmen, but good Italian citizens, with love of God, home and 
 native land (irmly implanted. 
 
 The English church is smaller but quite handsomely finished. 
 The music was conducted by a choir of college boys, and the sermon 
 was by the Rev. Adams, of Schenectady, N. Y., after which Dr. 
 Tipple, the pastor, gave a very interesting history of the mission. 
 
 In the afternoon a union meeting of all schools and congrega- 
 t ions of the city was held in an immense concert hall. The building 
 was crowded. Addresses were made by both the visitor and visited. 
 Some of the native pastors spoke fine English; some thought they 
 didn't need an interpreter, but were mistaken. The children sang 
 delightfully, and after the exercises everybody had a time of social 
 greeting and felicitation. 
 
 The Woman's Foreign Missionary Society has a fine school in 
 Rome called "The Vassar of Italy." It is lodged in Crandon Hall 
 — the girls' dormitory — and Massey Hall — the school building, in 
 the near future, an administration building will be erected between 
 the two. It is situated in a beautiful suburb and also has fine 
 grounds with a tennis court, a rare thing in Rome. The boarders 
 came from all parts of Italy, and it is largely patronized by the 
 diplomatic corps. Its musical department is in charge of one of 
 Italy's most famous composers. The society also owns an old con- 
 vent in another part of the city, which is used as a Home and 
 Industrial School. This, too, is very successful. Three hundred 
 and seventeen students are enrolled there now. Seventy boarders 
 are accommodated. These come from all directions. There are 
 regular courses in English, French and Italian. They are taught 
 diawing, type-setting, lace-making and mending, embroidery, tine 
 ironing, etc. These students come from the classes who must earn 
 their living. Some give part time to the government schools to 
 prepare for teaching. 
 
PISA AND FLORENCE. 
 
 Leaving Rome our train carried us in a northerly direction, 
 bringing us nearer the Appenines. We passed through vineyards, 
 olive gardens and orchards. The farms became larger, and we saw- 
 herds of the large, whitish -gray, long horned cattle for which this 
 section is famous. The only settlements on the plains seem to be 
 the villages that have grown up about the railroad stations. The 
 towns are built on the foothills, with castles, towers and fortifica- 
 tions in plain view from the train. Many of the old cities retain 
 their ancient names. We passed Verona, the city of Romeo and 
 Juliet. Beginning with Rome and the palaces of the Caesars, and 
 going on to Mantua, Padua and Venice, the feeling grows on one 
 that Italy is as truly the home of Shakespeare as is England. 
 
 Pisa, an old, old city, said to have been built of the ruins of 
 Carthage, six centuries before Christ, is on the banks of the A mo, 
 about eight miles from its mouth. It is surrounded by old walls 
 and moats, inside of which are gardens, lields and ruins of old con- 
 vents. At the time of the Crusades it had a population of 150,000. 
 Now there is nothing of special interest to the visitor, except the 
 cathedral, the baptistry and the famous leaning tower. It is also 
 the seat of a university. The tower leans, as the pictures sho\v r , at 
 a dangerous looking angle. It is a round marble building, one 
 hundred and seventy-nine feet high. One wonders why such a 
 huge, elaborate building should be erected merely to support a bell. 
 The question of the leaning is still unsettled. Some assert that it 
 is caused by a sinking of the foundation, others thas it was built so, 
 as an architectural curiosity. If the "line of direction should fall 
 without the base," there would be a crash. The surrounding plaza 
 is wide, and its inclination is from and not toward the cathedral. 
 Some of our people climbed the winding stairs to the top for the 
 view, and for the adventure, but found it a toilsome task. 
 
 Galileo was born in Pisa. We were shown the great chandelier 
 in the Cathedral, from the study of which he discovered the law of 
 Ihe vibrations of the pendulum. 
 
 From Pisa we went to Florence. This city is built in a beau- 
 tiful valley, through which passes the river Arno, the two parts 
 being connected by six bridges. This is conceded to be one of the 
 finest cities of Italy. It resembles all others in the solidity of its 
 construction, in the quaint, narrow streets, and antique buildings of 
 
its older sections; hut one feels the atmosphere of the Italy of art 
 
 nnd literal ure as in no other plaee we visited. There is evidence on 
 every hand thai here art is cherished for art's sake. That it is not 
 trammeled either by church or state; that the fires of geniuB have 
 burned freely. In all ages it has been a congenial home for scholars 
 and artists. There are no finer collections in all Europe than are 
 found in its galleries. Our hotel was in easy walking distance of 
 many historical places, as well as other objects of great interest. 
 Surrounding the great square and quite near, are the home of Dante, 
 the home in which he wrote "The Divine Comedy," and the place 
 where he was married. Facing the square is the prison in which 
 Savanarola was confined, the court of justice in which he was con- 
 demned to death, and just opposite, a tablet in the pavement marks 
 the spot where he was executed. 'We saw also the monument 
 erected to his memory. In a small space, the whole history of this 
 great reformer may be studied, the open square where he denounced 
 the profligacy of the people, his persecution, trial, condemnation, 
 martyrdom and posthumous glorification. The fate of the reformer 
 in all time. 
 
 We visited the great Pitti galleries with their masterpieces of 
 painting and sculpture, and the wonderful cathedral which dates 
 from the fourteenth century. 
 
 No other continental city has produced a greater number of 
 celebrated men than Florence. Among them are Dante, Petrarch, 
 Boccaccio, Michael Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and here Galileo was 
 educated. Mere in later life he was brought into conflict with 
 the Inquisition because of his assertion that the sun was the centre 
 of the universe, and only escaped persecution by refraining from 
 teaching the doctrine. Seventeen years later he resumed the 
 discussion, and was summoned to Rome for teaching that the earth 
 moves, and not the sun. To escape imprisonment for life he 
 recanted, but on leaving the hall of judgment he said to his friend, 
 "It does move, though." He became blind and died in Florence. 
 
 We were shown through the building where the wonderful 
 Florentine mosaics are made. We saw the whole process, from the 
 cutting of the colored stones to the finished work in the sale rooms. 
 No machinery is used, and it is the most delicate and exquisite 
 hand-work in Europe. No pencil or brush can excel the tints and 
 shadings of* the pictures thus produced. 
 
We were shown one table top about two feel square, which 
 required fifteen years to make. The priee was only for fat purses. 
 Our people carried away a good many small artieles as souvenirs, 
 such as paper weights, tiles, etc. The work was so fascinating that 
 our guide had difficulty in getting his party away from it. We saw 
 the making of laces, and our girls bought Tuscan hats fresh from 
 the plaiters. The old bridge over the Arno, famous for the antique 
 jewelry stores which line the sides, presented strong temptations to 
 our souvenir hunters. 
 
 A most delightful drive was over a boulevard which winds up 
 the mountain side on the outskirts of the city. The avenue itself 
 was the perfection of construction, and the grade was easy. It was 
 very wide, and bordered on the hill side with beautiful homes in 
 extensive grounds. On the opposite side, overlooking the city, 
 large trees gave unbroken shade. At the top of the hill we came 
 out upon a wide plaza ornamented with fountains and statuarv. 
 From the railing extending around the lower side, the whole city 
 was spread below us, a perfect panorama. We could trace the 
 windings of the river from its entrance to the last suburb below, 
 and locate the principal streets, buildings, parks and monuments. 
 
 After gazing until our eyes wearied, we drove on through a 
 large park, the perfection of landscape gardening, passing on the 
 way the observatory in which Galileo made his great discoveries. 
 Florence has a charm that no other city of Italy possesses. 
 
 EASTWARD TO VENICE. 
 
 Lombardy is called the "Garden of Italy/' Going toward the 
 mountains we saw growing grains, fruits and vegetables of all kinds. 
 Venice lies beyond the Appenines. Passing over the foothills, we 
 wound in and out, but always upward, along the sides of snow-clad 
 peaks. Tunnels are so close together that often the only interim is 
 a flash of sunlight, a glimpse of a deep gorge and tumbling mountain 
 stream, then a plunge into darkness. In this manner we crossed to 
 the plains beyond through forty- eight tunnels. The highest point 
 we reached is of greater altitude than that attained in crossing the 
 Alps. The lowlands beyond present the same characteristics as the 
 region of the western coast. 
 
 The approach to Venice, the "Queen of the Adriatic," is quite 
 similar to that to Atlantic City. We passed from the mainland on 
 a trestle, through marshes, to open water interspersed with marshy 
 
islands, bringing u|> in a modern railroad station. We were de- 
 tained inside the shed until the baggage was assorted. Here there 
 was no suggestion of the unusual, but as we passed out into the 
 open, there it all lay before us. There was no line of earriages 
 awaiting us, with streets busy with traffic in view. Instead, we 
 came out to a wide stone pavement, with stone steps leading down 
 to the water of the Grand Canal. It was filled here with long, 
 black, rakish gondolas with their swarthy gondoliers, who in a 
 Bable of noisy Italian were gliding in and out to place for their 
 cargo. Across the canal the water lapped the white walls of the 
 houses, and over the balustrade of a bridge below, hung a heavy 
 fringe of humanity watching the invasion from America. 
 
 I suspect that even in this Mecca for tourists, a whole long 
 special train of "Americanos" was something novel. While waiting 
 our turn for embarkation, an immense truck load of baggage was 
 rolled by, and I turned in time to see my special piece tumble from 
 the tip-top to the pavement. J shut my eyes afraid of the conse- 
 quences; but instead of a free expose of my personal belongings, 
 nothing more than a few scratches was the result. Straps and 
 hinges held, and I was thankful that I had packed in leather instead 
 of the much advised rattan. The gondolas are just as pictured; 
 long, low and narrow, rising high from the water in a sharp edge at 
 each end. In the centre, under a canopy, are upholstered seats for 
 four, sometimes five. Standing at each end are the boatmen with 
 long poles to guide and propel the craft. Our baggage was piled in 
 before and behind, and we glided away in the wake of our fellow 
 travelers. The Grand Canal is in the shape of a huge letters. 
 As the city is built on islands of many sizes, the streets follow the 
 natural conformation; and are, in consequence, of varying width 
 and as crooked as a maze. Sometimes we were in full view of our 
 friends, and another turn would find us in a narrow passage with 
 nothing familiar in sight. All the traffic of the city is carried on 
 1 he water, and in some places the congestion was so great that we 
 could not see how a collision could be avoided, particularly in pass- 
 ing under some of the short, low lying bridges. To me there was 
 nothing romantic nor even picturesque in this first experience in 
 ibis famous old world city. I very much preferred the saloon deck 
 of an ocean liner. Four women in a boat felt isolated from all the 
 world they knew, and transplanted suddenly to the fourteenth 
 century. However as nothing startling occurred, not even the 
 
grating together of two boats, which was marvelous under the 
 circumstances, we gained courage and began to study the streets as 
 we passed. Our progress was necessarily slow and we glided on to 
 the incessant vocalization of language that sounded like war, but 
 was only Italian exuberance. None of it was addressed to us, how- 
 ever. It seemed to be an exchange of signals and directions. 
 
 The tide being in, the water in many places lapped the very 
 door sills. In wider squares a narrow pavement extended along the 
 walls. An open door occasionally revealed a court inside, and 
 sometimes over-hanging trees and blooming vines indicated a garden 
 beyond. The distance to our hotel was greater than we thought 
 possible. We landed on St. Mark's Square, passing directly from 
 the boat up the steps to the hotel. This square contains the greatest 
 interest for the traveler, and there one is able to go afoot when 
 sight-seeing. 
 
 VENETIAN DAYS. 
 
 St. Mark's Cathedral with its five hundred marble columns, 
 its wonderful mosaics, its bronze horses, its alabaster column carried 
 here from Jerusalem by the Crusaders, its bell tower and town clock 
 claimed our attention first, and outside, swirling and darting in and 
 out of the lace-like tracery of its marble walls, hundreds of pigeons 
 made the air white as with huge snow-flakes. In the olden times, 
 a dove carried news to the Venetian army, which saved the city, 
 and laid the foundation for the great prosperity that followed. 
 Since then the doves have been protected and maintained by law. 
 
 We were taken through the Doges' Palace. It is a grim solid 
 building, blackened by time, but inside is still to be seen evidence 
 of its former magnificence. It is now used only for state ceremonies. 
 We saw at the head of a stair the huge lion's mouth of history. 
 The head of a lion carved of stone is embedded in the wall. He 
 who desired to denounce an enemy, dropped a note in the open 
 mouth. This was removed on the inside, and arrest followed. We 
 were taken to the room of the first trial, then to the chamber of the 
 Council of Ten, then to the throne room where final sentence was 
 passed. We followed the dolorous way to the Bridge of Sighs, 
 leading # from the palace across a narrow canal to the prison beyond. 
 From this prison the condemned rarely ever came out. The old 
 dungeons are below the water line. The bridge is not in use now, 
 
being condemned as unsafe, and as the prison is still the city jail, it 
 is not open to visitors. 
 
 We inspected the famous glass works. Saw the process of 
 making the ornamental glass for which the city has long been 
 famous. The show rooms here are like fairyland. We were taken 
 by special invitation through a large lace-making establishment. 
 Here an Minn of women and girls were at work with pillow and 
 bobbins, weaving the delicate fabrics that have tempted Eve's 
 daughters in all ages. Everything and everybody were spotlessly 
 clean, and the finished work needed no laundry. The display was 
 fascinating, hut the prices were quite equal to those of Xew York. 
 Evidently they were (ixed for the occasion. Those who had the 
 fear of the custom house before their eyes, just looked, and were 
 glad to see the real article in process of construction. One of our 
 young ladies spent forty dollars and then had only a narrow strip 
 of lace for the front of a waist. 
 
 The glass mosaics are very beautiful; the construction is 
 similar to those in Florence. 
 
 OUR NATIONAL HOLIDAY. 
 
 The Fourth of July was spent in Venice. The Stars and 
 Stripes flew from all hotels that lodged our people, and we each 
 wore a tiny Hag in honor of the day.. The day was spent going 
 through art galleries, churches and other places of interest. A 
 friend and 1 concluded in the afternoon that we were surfeited with 
 ancient art, and so we remained in our boat at the different land- 
 ings, and studied modern life in Venice. At one place quite an 
 open square gave us a chance to see the natives moving about 
 attending to their business. The women have heavy black hair 
 parted on the side, combed plainly over their ears and knotted low 
 behind. They wear heavy woolen skirts made full, and are invari- 
 ably bareheaded. They all, young and old, wear large black 
 shawls folded three cornered, as our grandmothers wore them. 
 These shawls are bordered with a deep silk fringe. Our gondoliers 
 remained with our boat while waiting at the different stopping 
 places, but paid no further attention to us than to ask for "monie, 
 drink." This of course we refused and they said nothing more. 
 
 A patriotic meeting was held in the evening atone of the 
 hotels, when "Americans" celebrated with song and speech as at 
 
home. Our hotel had evidently been originally a palace. The 
 finish and arrangement were that of a home, or rather of the 
 residence of wealth and fashion, for no palace that we saw seemed 
 in the least home-like. 
 
 In Southern Italy the fleas treated me with the utmost respect; 
 not so with the musquitos of Venice. Our beds were closely 
 screened, but I shared with the company the results of their 
 visitations. We took an early train on leaving for Milan, and 
 saw the city at low tide. The exposed walls were green and slimy 
 with barnacles clinging. The "street cleaners" were aboard on flat 
 barges, and with long-handled, many pronged forks were loading 
 up the floating debris. The water for domestic use is brought from 
 the mainland in pipes. It is all strange, full of Middle Age charm, 
 but to properly appreciate Venice, one should be young enough to 
 ignore the dampness, the musquitos and the frequent rainfall. 
 
 THE CATHEDRAL OF MILAN. 
 
 Milan is the largest city in Italy after Naples, and is by far 
 the most modern and enterprising. Its fine business houses, its fine 
 thoroughfares filled with traffic, remind one of New York, while its 
 beautiful ornamented plazas, its monuments, its triumphal arches 
 and statuary, commemorative of the events and of the men who 
 have made history in Italy, suggest our city of Washington. It is 
 an old city, but ruins are not preserved here. When a building 
 outlives its usefulness it is replaced with a modern structure. It is 
 the centre of the silk trade, and is the greatest book market in 
 Italy. There are many traces of French occupation. Napoleon 
 was crowned King of Italy in the Cathedral here. We were shown 
 the great arena he built, his statue, triumphal arches, etc. We 
 visited the art galleries with their priceless treasures. 
 
 To the tourist the great object of interest is the Cathedral. It 
 has become so familiar through illustrations that no one fails to 
 recognize it at a glance, and still it is a surprise, a revelation 
 when first seen, with the dazzling sunlight on its lofty tower and 
 needle-like spires, its lace-like tracery of decoration, and wealth of 
 statuary — a bewildering glory of white marble. It dates from the 
 fourteenth century, and is the finest Gothic edifice in the kingdom. 
 Many of our people climbed the tower to view the statuary that 
 crowns the roof, and for the extensive view of the city. Inside are 
 
the usual marble columns, gorgeous altars and profusion of statuary 
 of nil periods and degrees of excellence. We were shown the 
 gorgeous vestments, regalia and vessels used in the service, kept 
 here in lockers, from remote acres. We were taken to a crypt below 
 to a chapel dedicated to an archbishop, who. in the olden time, had, 
 in some miraculous way. staved the hand of pestilence in the 
 province. The hones, clothed in the magnificent robes of his office, 
 the skull covered with a mitre, lie in a glass coffin, on a breast-high 
 catafalque richly draped. Candles are kept burning constantly. 
 The walls and floor are of polished marble, and the ceiling of solid 
 silver in massive 1 carving. 
 
 In our tour we saw several statues of St. Bartholomew, who, 
 tradition says, was flayed alive and then put to death. In one 
 church he is portrayed with a scarf-like drapery about his body, 
 from which depends the skin of a hand and forearm, and that of the 
 head and face with the hair and beard on. The head of the statue 
 also has hair and beard. The guide remarked with a twinkle, "I 
 suppose it grew again." 
 
 Here in this building, beautiful as a dream, stands poor 
 Bartholomew suffering a perpetual martyrdom by standing in his 
 bar; 1 anatomy, through the centuries, with his whole skin thrown 
 over his shoulder like a discarded union suit. All this may be 
 useful as commemorative of the sufferings of the saint, but could not 
 be expected to arouse a feeling of devotion. As works of art they 
 are grotesque rather than artistic. 
 
 THE LAST SUPPER. 
 
 Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" has less imposing sur- 
 roundings than any other famous picture we saw. It is painted on 
 the end wall of the refectory of an old monastery. There is nothing 
 else of interest there. The room is now simply the show place of 
 this original painting. The side walls are lined with copies made 
 l>\ modern artists. This room is rectangular in shape, the entrance 
 being in one end and has a wainscot four or live feet high, on all 
 four sides. The picture covers the end opposite the entrance, 
 reaching from the wooden wainscot to the ceiling. The monks 
 evidently had little appreciation of the value of the picture, for 
 they cut a doorway through the wall under it, which carried away 
 part of the cloth of the table. During French control this room 
 
was used as a stable. The mural paintings of the old masters arc 
 done in water colors. The walls have a smooth, hard surface which 
 holds the colors remarkably. But this picture was done in oil; and 
 when, after years of neglect, an attempt was made to remove the 
 dirt and restore it, it scaled off in spots. This gives a speckled 
 appearance, defacing it somewhat, but not enough to destroy a 
 single outline. 
 
 By standing at the entrance and thus viewing it at a distance, 
 its chief beauty is brought out; a beauty that all copies have failed 
 to reproduce — the wonderful perspective in the large window behind 
 the Christ, There the hills of Judea seem so real, that I seemed to 
 be looking through a window in the building to real hills in the 
 purple distance. 
 
 We visited the fashionable cemetery on our way to our hotel. 
 The approach was through a massive gateway in a high wall. The 
 entrance was through a flower garden. Coming to the place of 
 burial the first thought was that we were in a marble yard. The 
 graves were so close together, and the decorations so elaborate, there 
 was barely room to pass between them. Every conceivable type of 
 woe is here represented in marble. 
 
 Life-sized husbands bow in grief over the graves of their wives. 
 Fathers and mothers are in attitudes of despair over dead children. 
 Wives lie prone on the graves of their husbauds. Widows with 
 grief stricken faces and little children clinging to them, kneel in 
 prayer. 
 
 One tomb is a production of the scene of the resurrection. 
 The sepulchre had been hewn in a great rough block of granite. 
 The stone rolled from the door is on one side, and on it the angel 
 sits. On the opposite side is the approaching Mary, with fear and 
 amazement depicted in her attitude and face. 
 
 The figures are in snow white marble and all life-size. It is 
 the most beautiful entombment I ever saw, but the effect is marred 
 by the crowded condition of its surroundings; nothing, however^ 
 could detract from the beauty, grace and expression of the figures. 
 
 Only great wealth can so commemorate its dead. 
 
THE ALPS. 
 
 After leaving Milan, we soon found ourselves among the lower 
 Alps and in the lake region of Italy. These mountain peaks rise 
 directly from valleys with small farms and little villages. The 
 beautiful lakes nestle among the mountains, and reflect their 
 verdure in the clear waters. The longer ranges began as we neared 
 t he Swiss frontier. At Lake Como on the Italian border we reached 
 a higher altitude. Here our company divided— a part remaining 
 for Sunday at this famous resort, and the rest going on to Lake 
 Lugano, just within the Swiss border. Here we had our first 
 encounter with custom house officers since leaving Naples. But one 
 piece of baggage in our company was inspected; the only result was 
 a hearty laugh at the owner's expense. The inference was that she 
 was the only suspicious looking member of the party. The inspec- 
 tion was merely perfunctory througout until we reached Southamp- 
 ton, England. 
 
 The scenery was fine as we passed on, but nigh; came before we 
 reached our destination. Our section of the divided party filled two 
 hotels at Lugano. We were delightful!}* housed and entertained 
 here. On entering my room I stepped through a large casement 
 window to a stone balcony, and the view that met my gaze almost 
 took my breath. We were on the side of the mountain over-looking 
 the lake, and the town lay in a crescent along the shore. The lake 
 is not wide here, and the peaks on the opposite side stood out clearly 
 against the star-lit-sky. The spacious grounds of our hotel led 
 down to the town in beautiful terraces, all brilliantly lighted. 
 Funicular railways carry passengers to the summits of the moun- 
 tains opposite, and the routes were indicated by lines of electric 
 lights. The town is beautifully lighted, and the lake was dotted 
 with moving lights like beautiful fireflies as boats passed to and fro. 
 
 As I stood and gazed at the unspeakable beauty of it all, and 
 listened to the merry chatter in adjoining balconies and to the sound 
 of music in the grounds below, the window behind me seemed to 
 have been the doorway to the Italy of my dreams. Next morning 
 the first waking thought was of the vision of the night before; but 
 a glance at the window revealed clouds and rain. In spite of that 
 the outlook was one of beauty. 
 
 The mountains are almost percipitous but green to the summit. 
 The town is well built and adorned. The terraces below me were 
 
a picture of well-kept, trees, shrubbery, and (lowers, and the grass 
 like velvet, A long flight of steps led down to the lake shore. 
 
 LUGANO AND BEYOND. 
 
 Lugano, like Como, is an ideal summer resort, The winters 
 here, we were told, are similar to our own. In fact, there is great 
 similarity between the climate of Italy and that of our own country 
 south of the Mason and Dixon line. Tim changes are caused by 
 difference in altitude rather than latitude. Coming from the south 
 to the northern extremity, we found the same clothing necessary 
 that we are accustomed to in the same season. Light snow-fall is 
 not unusual in Rome, and among the Appenines the fall is often 
 heavy. 
 
 Two noticeable things, among many others, in Italy 1 have 
 failed to mention. One is the beauty of the horses, and I might 
 add the skillful driving. I thought I had seen perfection in driving 
 while coaching in our "Rockies," where only faith in the driver 
 prevented a panic, but all through Europe our drivers were not 
 excelled in handling the reins, by anything I ever saw before. In 
 Algiers, in the rush to see the Arab section of the city before night- 
 fall, the drive through the French quarter was apparently reckless; 
 but nothing went amiss, and we passed through it safely. 
 
 At Naples the horses were in poor condition, but everywhere 
 else they were well cared for and handled most kindly. The other 
 noticeable thing was the fine condition of the roads. In fact this 
 was the case every where from Naples to Liverpool. p]ven among 
 the Alps where roads were at all possible, they were well constructed". 
 I conclude this is one of the necessities of military preparedness. 
 
 The rain kept many of us indoors that Sunday at Lugano, 
 though some ventured out to an English service in the morning. 
 A short service was held in the evening in the dining-room of our 
 hotel for the shut-ins. 
 
 Monday morning we were booked for an excursion on the lake; 
 but the heavy fog on the mountains and the mist on the lake were 
 not inviting, and I remained ashore. 
 
 Leaving Lugano our way was steadily upward. The little 
 valleys finally disappeared and became mere gorges between snow- 
 capped peaks. Down the mountain sides came rushing waterfalls 
 
from ice fields so far above thai they were lost in spray and mist 
 before they reached the gorge below. 
 
 The marvelous feat of engineering, which carried the road 
 from gorge to gorge over massive stone archways, across fearful 
 chasms, through tunnels hewn in solid rock, winding in and out upon 
 itself, gave frequent opportunity to look down upon the way we had 
 come, and forward to that we were approaching. We literally 
 traveled upon our feet. The cars were admirably constructed for 
 observation, and we hurried from side to side, each new view being 
 more wonderful than the last. 
 
 Reaching St. Gothard Pass, the long, long ride through the 
 tunnel gave time for rest, and the exchange of impressions that 
 always follows the stir of an unusual experience. Descending we 
 passed into a less percipitous region, in which the evident struggle 
 to wrest a living from the soil was pathetic. Here and there on the 
 steep mountain sides, a tiny green patch, supported on the lower 
 side by a rough stone wall, showed an attempt to grow something. 
 Wherever enough soil could be found something was planted. An 
 occasional thatched hut was the only sign of homelife. Many of 
 these cultivated spots seemed so inaccessible that the wonder was 
 how the owners reached them. One could understand that nothing 
 but the fierce Swiss love of country, could hold the native to such 
 a life. 
 
 As we passed downward the gorges widened into valleys, the 
 huts became chalets, and these in turn became more pretentious 
 with their surrounding porches above the basement and their tiled 
 roofs. The basements seemed to be used for the stock. Coming 
 down to the lake shores we found pretty towns, clean, inviting 
 resorts. Our route lay through the William Tell region. Along 
 the shore of Lake Uri we passed the place where Tell escaped from 
 the boat of Gesler, the tyrant. Not far away is the William Tell 
 Chapel. 
 
 Among these mountain fastnesses, the liberty-loving Swiss 
 conspired against their Austrian oppressors, and made possible a 
 Swiss Republic. 
 
AN ALPINE CENTRE. 
 
 Zurich, the convention city, has a population of 200,000. It 
 is situated in a beautiful valley along the shore of Lake Zurich. It 
 covers the plain and all the accessible foothills, and is surrounded 
 by the Alps. From all points in the city and on the lake can be 
 seen a horizon of snowy peaks and ranges. 
 
 The principal streets are wide and beautifully shaded. The 
 construction is what we term modern, but which there bears the 
 impress of time and long usage. The wonder is that our wide 
 awake country has been so slow in adopting the building methods 
 which stand for comfort, durability, and sanitation. The city is 
 solid, substantial, comfortable; and is adorned with beautiful parks, 
 gardens, squares, statuary and fountains. Buildings of historic 
 interest are well preserved and kept in use. Among the most 
 striking is the Grossmunster, the great Cathedral founded by 
 Charlemagne, and in which Zwingli preached his first sermon in 
 15131; and where the great reformer continued his work until his 
 heroic death on the battlefield of Kappel. The Fraumunster was 
 founded by the grandson of Charlemagne. These two historic 
 churches were used during the convention, for overflow and special 
 meetings. 
 
 Heinrich Pestalozzi, the founder of the Swiss educational 
 system, has left here an enduring monument to his memory in the 
 great University and the Federal Technological School which have 
 a world wide fame. As a result of his labor, no children in the 
 world have greater educational advantages than those of Zurich. 
 Commissions from all the world come here to study the methods, 
 and they are being gradually adopted in every civilized nation. 
 
 Zurich is a Mecca for tourists. Lines of travel converge here, 
 and it is a point from which the scenic attractions of Switzerland 
 can be most easily reached. It is also a great commercial centre. 
 Traffic from the north going south, and that from Italy going north 
 pass here, also that going west to France and eastward to Austria. 
 The people are genial and full of courtesy. The display in the 
 markets of fruits, vegetables and flowers, cannot be surpassed any- 
 where. The "market wagons" are low carts with large handsome 
 dogs in the harness — the finest dogs we saw abroad. Sometimes the 
 dog and man are harnessed together. The people in both city and 
 country are cleanly, and have a well-fed appearance. 
 
On the streets we constantly uiel hunters and mountain 
 olimbers equipped for their vocations. In the store windows were 
 displayed Alpine stocks, boots for climbing, etc. The gray-green 
 Norfolk jackel and knickerbockers, the long leather leggings, the 
 heavy shoes, the pack strapped to the back and the jaunty Alpine 
 hat with its green feather erect which surmounted the outfit, ceased 
 in a few days to attract our attention. 
 
 When it rains in Zurich, men and women, girls and boys alike, 
 wear long black capes instead of raincoats, and they certainly look 
 snug and comfortable, in the florists' windows eidelweiss, the snow 
 white flower of the Alps, was seen, growing in pots, cut for sale, and 
 beautifully pressed. There are twelve temperance restaurants in 
 the city, established and managed by a Woman's Temperance 
 Society. They began with one, and from the net returns opened 
 another. They followed this plan until the present number was 
 reached. 
 
 THE GREAT CONVENTION HALL. 
 
 The Tonhalle in which the convention was held, is a beautiful 
 building in a line garden which opens on the boulevard that borders 
 the lake. The unsophisticated gave the name a liberal translation, 
 calling it "Town Hall" and supposed it was devoted to the general 
 uses of such buildings. We soon discovered that the "o" was long 
 and as "Tone Hall" it was dedicated to the harmonies. The 
 garden and the ground floor are used for banquets and other social 
 gatherings, and the necessary work rooms. During the convention 
 this floor was used for offices, cloak-rooms, exhibits of Sunday school 
 work and supplies, displays from schools in foreign work, bureau of 
 information, etc. On the floor above it is the great auditorium, the 
 concert room with its surrounding galleries and adjoining lobbies, 
 rest rooms, committee rooms, etc. 
 
 The great hall is beautifully finished and furnished. Our 
 committee added simple but tasteful decorations, indicative of the 
 Sunday school work and its extent. Above the platform was 
 suspended a. large globe, a reminder of the world wide scope of the 
 work; above it was placed a red cross which, when lighted at night, 
 was a beautiful symbol of the ''light which lighted the world." 
 Back of the platform and in front of the great organ, was the White 
 Cross (lag of Switzerland, with the flags of America and Great 
 
Britain on cither side. On the walls were two large pictures of 
 Pestalozzi and Ulrich Zwingli. 
 
 Twenty-six hundred registered delegates, representing seventy 
 countries, with thousands of unregistered visitors, brought together 
 the ends of the earth at this one of the most remarkable religious 
 gatherings in the history of the world. North America sent 1844 
 accredited representatives, Great Britain 288; Asia 83; Africa 565 
 Australia 30. and South America 24. Continental Europe enrolled 
 728. Every state except Utah and New Mexico was represented, 
 and every Canadian province except Manitoba. 
 
 Before the opening of the convention a reception was given the 
 delegates by Mrs. Reiter Bodman, in her beautiful home, where the 
 Kaiser Wilhelm had been entertained, and where Wagner lived and 
 wrote several of his great works. 
 
 Our party was most comfortably housed, our hotel having been 
 reserved a year in advance. The table was all that could be desired; 
 the food being abundant, well-cooked and beautifully served. Here 
 we had our introduction to down beds as a covering. We were 
 located on the principal street about a mile from the Tonhalle, but 
 the car line thereto passed our door. 
 
 THE GREAT CONVENTION. 
 
 At the opening of the convention at Zurich a gavel from 
 Burma was presented to the president, Dr. Bailey, of Philadelphia. 
 It wes in the shape of the gong and hammer used by the Burmes 
 to call to service. It was made of wood from the home and prison 
 of Adoniram Judson, the pioneer missionary to that country. The 
 opening service was conducted by Bishop Vincent, and the sermon 
 was delivered by Rev. Floyd Tompkins, of Philadelphia. 
 
 A general reception was given at which the mayor of the city 
 made an address of welcome. Resident church officials gave words 
 of greeting, and the American consul was quite enthusiastic in his 
 welcoming. He said among other things that "as a good Catholic, 
 I give a hearty hand clasp and a God-speed to any man whatever 
 his creed, who strives for the betterment of humanity." The 
 Methodist resident bishop, Dr. Nuelson, having been born in a 
 Zurich parsonage, reared in America, then returned to his native 
 city in the episcopal rotation, was peculiarly happy in his remarks- 
 
 An interesting feature of the convention was the bilingual 
 
en; 
 
 baracter of the exercises. About 71 per cent, of Swiss speak 
 German. The program was given in English and German princi- 
 pally. The majority of Continental people speak French in addition 
 to their own language. The interperter, Prof. Luring, of Frankfort, 
 is a remarkable linguist; he speaks fluently and intelligently twenty- 
 seven languages. Added to this great "gift of tongues," is a 
 remarkable personality, a grace and dignity that were so expressive 
 that they held the attention even of those who did not understand 
 the language spoken. Persons who understood, pronounced some of 
 the translations superior to the original addresses. 
 
 Dr. L. B. Meyer, of London, conducted devotional exercises 
 each morning. This venerable man is an ardent Sunday school 
 worker, not only in his own parish, but has compassed the globe in 
 the study of schools and their needs. 
 
 The music of the convention was a pleasing feature; Miss 
 Esslinge-r, daughter of a resident pastor, was the organist. A fine 
 choir led the congregational singing. 
 
 A full report of the forty-five sessions held in those eight days 
 is altogether too voluminous for these pages. Great themes were 
 discussed, and far reaching plans laid by men of weight and world 
 wide influence. Six commissions had been sent out long before to 
 study school conditions in all lands, and their reports were most 
 thrilling. A vast amount of information was thus presented, and 
 being thorough, correct and up-to-date, furnished a solid foundation 
 for plans for the future. 
 
 The missionary feature dominated the convention. As the 
 result of the very stirring reports from Africa and the Orient, work 
 among the Mohammedans was emphasized as being the most diffi- 
 cult, and at the same time, owing to new conditions among them, 
 the most imperative. One representative from the Orient covered 
 the situation by saying, "The most difficult thing to do in the world, 
 is to induce the proudest man in the world to accept from the man 
 he hates the thing he hates." And yet as a menace to civilization 
 the Moslem rule heads the list and must be considered. 
 
 The convention placed in the hands of its executive committee 
 $125,000 for advancing a work which Dr. Bailey declared repre- 
 sents kk a large constituency, covers more territory and has a wider 
 reach of influence than any other association of men and women the 
 world has ever known. 
 
Aside from the regular program, there were man}' pleasing 
 events, notably that of the presentation by Dr. Ibuka, of Japan, of 
 an invitation to hold the next World's Convention in Tokyo. On 
 motion of Mr. Heinz, of Pittsburg, heartily seconded by Sir Francis 
 Belsey, of London, the invitation was accepted with enthusiasm. 
 The autumn of 1916 is the time fixed. 
 
 Another interesting episode was the presentation by Mr. Heinz 
 to the association, of two fine portraits in oil, one of Bishop Vincent, 
 and the other of Sir Francis Belsey. These were happily presented, 
 and received in a most appreciative manner. They are to be hung 
 in the Administration Building in Chicago. 
 
 An impressive service was held in memory of Mrs. Hartshorn, 
 wife of the first vice president. News of her death in Boston reached 
 us at sea by wireless. She and her husband have been pioneers in 
 the World Sunday School work, and most generous supporters. 
 Sunday morning was devoted to a mass meeting of the city Sunday 
 schools. These filled the Tonhalle to overflowing so that no space 
 on floor or galleries was left for visitors except the seats on the stage 
 and the outside lobbies. One of the great churches was used at the 
 same hour for the overflow. The order of exercises was the same 
 in both places. The addresses were in German, and the singing was 
 fine. At the close the schools marched to a nearby park and sang 
 familiar hymns to the delight of thousands who gathered to hear 
 them. The Sunday school army of which these Swiss schools are a 
 part, numbers 28,700,00 in 298,000 schools; the largest Christian 
 army in the world marching under one banner. 
 
 One evening of the convention was devoted to a concert given 
 by a chorus of 450 picked voices under the leadership of Dr. Bucher. 
 They sang in German, and were assisted by the Tonhalle orchestra 
 of 42 pieces, one of the finest symphony orchestras in Europe. 
 Other artists of great merit contributed, including a band of ten 
 Swiss yodlers, who so enthused the multitude that they were 
 allowed to leave the stage only after repeated encores, to which 
 they most generously responded. Every seat was filled, and hun- 
 dreds remained standing during the two hours of the concert. 
 
 The convention unanimously elected Sir Robert Laidlow, of 
 London, as president for the next three years. This gentleman is 
 an untiring Sunday school worker at home and in the wider field. 
 He is a man of large affairs, having extensive business interests 
 
both in England and India. He is a princely giver and for a long 
 time lias been a leader of the organized work in Great Britain. He 
 is a Congregationalist. Mr. Heinz is chairman of the executive 
 oommittee. Of Ids business qualification for the office it is not 
 necessary to speak, but his great generosity and untiring activity in 
 this field of usefulness may not be so generally known. With his 
 keen foresight and generous planning, a great advance in the move- 
 ment may be expected in the next three years. 
 
 The association of these two leading husiness men in a cause of 
 such great interest to both, will mean much to humanity the world 
 over. The close of the convention is the renewal of effort. 
 
 ALPINE TRIPS. 
 
 Zurich being the centre of scenic Switzerland, and a place from 
 which all the principal points of interest have been made accessible, 
 the members of the convention availed themselves of every oppor- 
 tunity for sightseeing. The tour of Lake Zurich is not the least of 
 these excursions. It is bordered with many beautiful country 
 homes, and with picturesque towns and villages all alive with busi- 
 ness; with here and there quaint costumes and traces of antique 
 customs, which are rapidly being crowded to the rear by this enter- 
 prising little republic. 
 
 Quite near the city rises the Uetilburg, the summit of which 
 is reached by a mountain railway. The view from this point is 
 magnificent. It includes a view of the entire range of the Swiss 
 Alps from the frontier to Lake Constanoe, and from the plateau, 
 with the Jura behind it, to the Black Forest. The mountains 
 spread out in snowy billows and peaks all around, the city and lake 
 lie directly below. There is a trail up the mountain for those who 
 prefer to reach the top afoot. 
 
 A short trip by rail and boat takes one to Interlachen; and 
 funicular and cog roads carry you to the top of Rigi and other 
 famous peaks. Two ladies of our party joined a little company 
 bound for Rigi. They were careful to provide themselves with 
 sufficient Swiss money to cover the day's necessary expenses. When 
 the time for descent drew near, they were so absorbed in the 
 wondeiful outlook that they missed the last car down. There they 
 were, stranded alone on the summit of Rigi with no hope of getting 
 down till next day. They counted their money, and decided they 
 
could only afford a bed and breakfast if these eould be found in the 
 little homes of the curio and refreshment people, who are always 
 found in such places. After repeated efforts, they found a hospit- 
 able woman who gave them a clean bed, and a comforting breakfast 
 which they relished after their long fast, and strenuous day. When 
 they reached their hotel they laughed heartily over their adventure, 
 but assured us there was little fun in being marooned over night on 
 Rigi, with little money and less knowledge of the language. 
 
 THE LION OF LUCERNE. 
 
 I accompanied two friends to Lucerne. We were posted by 
 those who had made the trip, as to the route, cost of round trip 
 tickets, etc. At the station the young lady of our party fell into 
 line at the ticket window, and asked for "three tickets to Lucerne 
 and back." The clerk laid down three straight tickets. She 
 refused them and repeated her order; this was without effect, and 
 after a third refusal she was obliged to accept the tickets and make 
 way for others. While we stood relieving our minds in regard to 
 an official who would thus take advantage of strangers, Judge 
 Chaffee and his ladies passed. They too had been unable to get 
 round trip tickets, and we all knew they were on sale. The ride 
 down the lake and through the pretty valleys between the moun- 
 tains, with their clean little towns, to Lake Lucerne was very 
 pleasant. 
 
 On our arrival, we passed from the station through a wide 
 plaza to a large stone bridge over an arm of the lake. Looking 
 about us from this point, we saw the town lying along the narrow 
 valley which borders the lake and stretching up the gorges between 
 the mountains. While the mountains themselves were so precipi- 
 tous, so close above us, and so high, that it seemed that a clap of 
 thunder, or any unusual atmospheric disturbance, would surely 
 bring those great lofty masses of snow down upon us in an avalanche 
 that would bury everything below. The loftiest, Pilatus, is so 
 directly above the street on which the railroad station stands, that 
 to the novice it seemed a dangerous neighborhood. 
 
 Leaving the bridge, we passed down a beautifully shaded 
 boulevard along the lake front, and turned into a cross street that 
 brought us to the heart of the town. The streets are fine and are 
 bordered with substantial business houses and splendid hotels. 
 Everything is planned to cater to the demands of the tourist. 
 
Missing the right turning point, wc brought up at an old stone 
 church. I failed to get its history but it is evidently a sample of 
 the infancy of architecture. The finish inside is plain and crude, 
 and the statuary on the stone terrace outside is grotesque. 
 
 As the "Lion of Lucerne" was the object of our search, we 
 retraced our steps. By the kindly aid of an English speaking lady 
 who had noticed our hesitant movements, we found our way up the 
 mountain side over a beautifully shaded roadway. A turn in the 
 road brought us abruptly to our destination. Against the hillside 
 stands an immense granite rock so imbedded in the mountain that 
 only its chiseled face is exposed. Cut from this surface in bas 
 relief, is the colossal figure of the dying lion which has made the 
 fame of its sculptor, Thorwaldsen, immortal. It lies with paws 
 extended protectingly over the shield of France, with a barb in its 
 side from which the blood trickles. As we gazed at the drooping 
 head and the closing eyes, we almost waited for the expiring breath. 
 
 Cut in the rock beneath is an inscription in Latin, dedicating 
 the stone to the memory of the brave Swiss Guards, who, during the 
 French Revolution gave their lives in defense of the royal family of 
 France. About the base of the rock and protected by an iron rail, 
 is a pretty pool in which water lilies grow. Near by is a very 
 interesting curio store where the people were loading up with 
 souvenirs. Just beyond, a gate opens into a park; but as a visit 
 involved further climbing we returned to the town, taking our way 
 leisurely through the streets. Recrossing the bridge, we visited a 
 quaint aquariam for water fowl. It was a weir in the lake, 
 enclosed by high wire fencing as are our poultry yards. Each 
 species had a large division to itself. There I saw for the first time 
 a black swan. I had always considered it a mythical creation. 
 
 On our way to the ticket office of the station, I noticed a rail- 
 road olficial, (they are all uniformed) who looked English. I asked 
 if he spoke our language. "Yes, Madam. How can I serve you." 
 We told the story of the round trip tickets, and asked for an 
 explanation. He said we should have received them, and asked 
 what we had asked for. Our young lady repeated the conversation 
 — how she had asked for tickets "to Lucerne and back" and had 
 been refused three times. "O," said he "these clerks must know 
 their own language and French. Tf you had said 'to Lucerne and 
 return' you would have been given the tickets. The French and 
 
English for 'return' are so nearly the same, that he would have 
 understood. He simply didn't know the word 'back.' " J record 
 this incident that none of my readers may miss the round trip rates 
 abroad. The trip, however, was well worth much more than it 
 cost us. 
 
 This delightful day among most impressive scenes, in the mots 
 congenial company, will remain a landmark in my memory. 
 
 A DAY AT HEIDELBERG. 
 
 With so many evidences of business activity both in the cities 
 and agricultural regions, and with such rare educational advantages 
 as both Switzerland and Germany afford, I expressed surprise that 
 these people ever come to our new T undeveloped country with its 
 rawness still so near the surface. A gentleman of our party replied: 
 "I thought that too, and to enlighten myself asked a railroad con- 
 ductor one day what wages he received. 'Seventy-five cents a day,' 
 he answered 'and if the service is satisfactory, at the end of a year 
 twenty-five cents is added.' ' The cost of living there is not so low 
 as to make life comfortable, from our point of view, on such an 
 income. 
 
 Everywhere more money and a "chance," are the reasons given 
 for coming to America. No doubt enforced military duty is a 
 potent though unexpressed cause of emigration. My conclusion is 
 that the middle classes of Europe rarely leave their country. Those 
 who do, have been unfortunate in some waj T that makes a change 
 desirable. But the "son of toil" looks westward with longing eyes 
 to a land where the labor of his hands finds adequate recompense, 
 to a land of opportunity. 
 
 We left Zurich regretfully. There are so many interesting 
 points within easy reach, that a whole season could be delightfully 
 spent there. Going north, by rail we passed into an open rolling 
 country which ends in the Black Forest. Here for miles the hills 
 and valleys are covered with a dense growth of a species of pine 
 with a heavy, dark foliage, which almost produced twilight at 
 midday, and which gives name to the region. Here the Swiss 
 obtain the wood for their famous carvings. From potteries among 
 these hills, are sent out a quaint ware in medieval shapes and 
 markings. 
 
 Our first stop this day was at the old university town of 
 
Heidelberg. Upon leaving the train we were told to leave in our 
 compartments our handbags, wraps and umbrellas— the cars would 
 be locked, side-tracked and in the care of the porters. We had done 
 this on previous short stops and found it a relief. Heidelberg is 
 built, on both sides of the river Neckar, in a valley surrounded by 
 heavilv timbered mountains. It is an old city, built for all time, 
 well-paved and clean. 
 
 It is the centre of the toy industry; many of the dolls our 
 children have are made here. But the great university has made 
 the city famous, and is the .Mecca toward which students all over 
 the world turn longing faces. 
 
 As we approached the city every eye had watched the opposite 
 mountain for a first-sight of the great castle of Heidelberg. There 
 it stood in bold relief, high up the mountain side, with massive 
 foundation and outer wall, parapet, rampart, its turrets, its towers, 
 its keep, all complete as "in days of old when men were bold." A 
 drive through the principal streets gave us a comprehensive idea of 
 the city; then passing through a suburb we began to climb to the 
 castle. 
 
 THE WAY THITHER. 
 
 The road wound around the mountain side, passing cozy little 
 homes in woody recesses overlooking the city and river below, until 
 we arrived at the Castle Park. No carriages are allowed to enter 
 here. From the general lay of the land — being very precipitous — 
 I concluded that this level park is an artificial formation; having 
 been made by cutting down the mountains above and filling in 
 below, thus building a flat area of several acres. Here is evidence 
 of careful planting and beautifying, though a growth of centuries 
 gives a dense woodland effect. The gravelled walks are well-kept, 
 the undergrowth cleared away, the grass clean and clipped, and the 
 shrubbery trimmed. Here and there pavilions on the border give 
 the beautiful views of the city. 
 
 At the outer entrance to the castle we were met by the local 
 guide, an intelligent German lady who spoke English. From the 
 first gate we crossed an open space to the drawbridge over the moat. 
 
 The moat is now empty and grass grown; but in times of 
 necessity a depth of twenty-five feet of water was maintained. The 
 drawbridge over which we passed is strong enough to bear the 
 weight of heavy artillery. This brought us to the sally-post 
 
through walls seventeen feet thick. Here hangs the portcullis of 
 massive timber and iron bands, in the centre of which is the wicket 
 through which the guardsman may take observation before lie gives 
 admittance. Passing under, we emerged into a wide, open, paved 
 court, around the three sides of which the castle is built. 
 
 I stood and gazed around, suddenly transferred to the four- 
 teenth century. Without closing my eyes, my mental vision 
 revealed the prancing steeds with their armored riders with polished 
 shield and lance glittering in the sunlight, dashing through the 
 gate way; and the plumed knights on gayly caparisoned horses, and 
 dainty ladies with poised falcons returning from the hunt, and could 
 hear the ring of the hoofs of their pretty palfreys on the cobbled 
 court. 
 
 In the centre of the main building is the great banquet hall, 
 now used for the display of antiquities belonging to the castle. 
 Some pictures and statues which adorned this ancient stronghold, 
 still remain and keep alive its stories of medieval ohivalry and 
 heroism. From the rampart in front of the castle we gazed down 
 the precipitous face of the mountain hundreds of feet to the valleys 
 below, with the whole city and river spread out before us. Modern 
 artillery from this point could defend the whole valley. 
 
 We inspected the living rooms, the barracks, the store-rooms, 
 now bare and untenanted, passing through doors in stone walls 
 sometimes twenty-five feet thick, climbed narrow steep stairways to 
 balconies above, and to the summits of to .vers from which the views 
 are indescribable. We followed the guide down into the court yard 
 and into the rooms below where servants had been quartered, and 
 the domestic machinery had place. Here in the wine room we saw 
 the "biggest barrel on earth" — a great wine cask so immense that a 
 railed platform on top of it affords room for a dance. 
 
 Within these walls is room for ample sustenance and refresh- 
 ment for a long siege. In fact so nearly impregnable is the castle 
 that reduction by starvation seems the only possible way. 
 
 From the Castle Park we were driven to the university. These 
 are plain, substantial brick buildings. Here are to be seen the 
 usual scholastic appurtenances of a great school. The town seems 
 quiet, and an academic atmosphere seems to pervade the place, which 
 certainly is conducive to uninterrupted study and deep thought. 
 
FRANKFURT-ON-THE-MAIN. 
 
 When we arrived at the railroad station at Heidelberg to 
 resume our journey, we found our train had been abandoned and a 
 new one awaited us. This was our first stop over the Swiss frontier. 
 The roads in Germany are owned by the government. All our 
 belongings, wraps, handbags, umbrellas, as well as heavy baggage 
 had been transferred, but we were assured of their safety. Mean- 
 while our conductors and the local authorities were in noisy discus- 
 sion'of the change. Our representatives were protesting with all 
 the vehement gesticulations of excited Italians, and the other party 
 stood like statuary, but rolled out German gutturals like muttering 
 thunder. I suppose it was all satisfactorily explained, for "grim 
 visaged war smoothed it? wrinkled front," and we were put aboard 
 as though nothing unusual had occurred. 
 
 On the train we discovered all our belongings heaped promis. 
 cuously in the baggage car. The entire time to Frankfurt was 
 occupied in assorting and distributing. A young lady in my com- 
 partment very kindly looked after my interest. Nothing was 
 missing eventually, but the name pin from my jacket, — dropped in 
 the handling I presume, — and the "fifty dollar bonnet" of the 
 Western suffragette; and "how could she visit friends in Germany 
 without that bonnet!" 
 
 The search and wail were kept up all the way to Frankfurt, 
 when it suddenly ceased. That the bonnet was found was only an 
 inference, for none of us ever saw it before the loss or after. 
 
 From the car windows we saw on every hand evidences of a 
 growing industry in fields of the sugar beets, but the vine still held 
 possession of the hillsides. As we neared the city, we became aware 
 of an industrial life that reminded us of our home towns. The tall 
 stacks of foundries and factories, the murky atmosphere, smoke- 
 stained buildings and the stir of things doing, interested the men of 
 our party. "This place is alive," they said, "there's business here 
 as we know business." 
 
 To reach our hotel we crossed the river which is here from 350 
 to 400 feet wide. The two parts of the city are connected by six 
 stone bridges. Charlemagne founded the city, and built one of 
 \\w*e bridges. It still remains in fine condition, a monument to the 
 wisdom and skill of men who took time and care to build a perma- 
 
nency. The massive piers with strong buttresses are almost black 
 with age, but show no other sign of the passing of time. Not many 
 years ago a fine statue of Charlemagne was erected on this bridge. 
 
 The hotel here seemed below the status of our previous enter- 
 tainment. Mine host and his assistants, in their anxiety for our 
 comfort, seemed to be striving to make the best of the situation. 
 The food was abundant, but not so well served; the rooms were 
 comfortable, but shabby. A general dissatisfaction was soon 
 apparent, and our lady of the fifty dollar decoration descended to 
 the office in open mutiny. She demanded a better room, and 
 refused to touch the dinner. Some changes were made with profuse 
 apologies, and we settled for the night. Upon referring to our 
 itinerary we discovered that this night and a day in Frankfurt was 
 a gratuity which our general transportation committee had been 
 able to give us; and as it was an afterthought, had done their best 
 in the way of entertainment. When we realized what we would 
 have missed by merely passing through the city, we were grateful 
 for the change. 
 
 Frankfurt is not only a hive of industry, but it is full of 
 historic interest. We engaged large sight-seeing carriages, and my 
 party was exceptionally fortunate in having a guide who spoke good 
 English, knew the city thoroughly, and was anxious that we should 
 see and appreciate it. He gave the population at 400,000, with 
 400 millionaires. 
 
 THE OLD CITY. 
 
 In the newer sections of the city the streets are wide and hand- 
 some, the buildings of modern designs; but in the old town are seen 
 the heavily timbered fronts, with each story projecting a little over 
 the lower on up to the high peaked gables, thus apparently adding 
 floor space to each story. All are kept in good condition and 
 occupied. There are no ruins to be shown. The streets are narrow 
 and crooked, but kept in fine condition and perfectly clean. Every 
 turn reveals something of special interest. 
 
 Every one knows of the Frankfurt sausage factories. A dog 
 flew at our carriage and barked savagely. A gruff old gentleman 
 who had seemed to notice nothing before, spoke now: "Shut up ! 
 don't you know they make sausage here?" The old town has long 
 
been famous for its cider. The places where it is sold are indicated 
 by a green wreath hung over the door. 
 
 The old wall around the town has been cleared away and a 
 beautifully shaded boulevard made in its place. A remnant of the 
 old wall with a gateway and tower above remains. The old market 
 is very interesting. We visited the Kaiser Dom, a cathedral begun 
 in the ninth century, where fifteen Electors, also Wilhelmn I, were 
 crowned. We saw the throne room, the lockers where the ancient 
 dignitaries kept their robes of office, the arms and tombs of patri- 
 cians, and the ancient archives. Here, too, we saw the original 
 "Christ from the Cross" by Van Dyck. 
 
 We were 1 taken to the church where Luther preached his first 
 sermon, and shown the house which was his stopping place. "Now" 
 said the guide, "I'll show you the Ghetto." Of course we thought 
 of the squalid, remote-hiding place of the despised medieval money- 
 lender, and showed our surprise, to his evident amusement, when 
 we turned into a narrow but well-kept street, lined with . beautiful 
 homes with every evidence of respectability and modern comfort. 
 The Jewish Quarter is an ornament to the city. Here we saw the 
 home of the elder Rothschild, and the building in which he opened 
 his first bank. 
 
 The whole city abounds in fine squares ornamented with foun- 
 tains, statuary and monuments, commemorative of men and events 
 that have made Germany great. A room in a hotel was pointed 
 out as the place where the treaty of peace was finally completed 
 after the Franco-Prussian war. 
 
 The home of Goethe is in the centre of a solid block. It is of 
 the middle-age type, four stories high, and is open to the public. 
 It is furnished, as the family used it. We entered a central hall 
 directly from the pavement. The ceilings are low, the rooms of 
 medium size, and the stairways are broad and easy. The parlors 
 and library are furnished in handsome but well-worn furniture. On 
 the walls are family portraits, some of them being old time silhouttes 
 in black and white. In addition there are oil paintings and mirrors 
 of great value. The kitchen is complete in its old time appurten- 
 ances, and the dining-room is equally quaint and suggestive of 
 German hospitality. Taken altogether, aside from its historical 
 interest, this house is a faithful representation of the home life of a 
 nobleman of the 18th century. We were shown a window in the 
 
projecting corner of a room in the third story, with which a bit of 
 sentiment is connected The story goes that Father Goethe, 
 indiscreetly fell in love with a pretty girl neighbor, and had this 
 window cut that he might see her as she passed below. Where 
 Frau Goethe or their famous son was, while the old man gazed 
 upon the unconscious object of his affections, remains a secret. 
 
 At the station a crowd of children gathered to see the 
 "foreigners." Little boys in long pantaloons, tight jackets and caps 
 with visors, quaint little blue-eyed girls with fair rosy faces and 
 long flaxen braids; bareheaded except for an occasional close cap 
 that covered the ears. Some of them knitting as they gazed. Shy 
 and quiet, but not at all afraid, they seemed pleased at the attention 
 our German speaking folks gave them; but could not be coaxed to 
 sing for us while we waited for our train. 
 
 Although we traveled through the summer, I can't recall 
 seeing a bare-footed child on the Continent. 
 
WIESBADEN. 
 
 We left Frankfurt with enlarged ideas of what this old 
 German city means to the world of literature, finance and industrial 
 art. It boasts of Gutenberg in the development of the art of 
 printing; of Schiller and Goethe in the realm of literature; of Den- 
 Decker in his wonderful Ariadne in marble; of the Rothschilds who 
 finance nations. Here, as elsewhere, we followed the trail of 
 Napoleon as he swept over the Continent. The statue of Bismarck 
 Buggests the thought that if the iron hand of the Great Chancellor 
 could have been laid upon him, his dream of universal empire would 
 have met a final awakening before it reached the German frontier. 
 
 The surrounding country gives evidence of great productive- 
 ness. Fine cattle grazed in the fields, and we saw exposed for sale 
 strawberries as large as apricots. The Falls of the Rhine are a 
 series of cascades, resembling, somewhat, Tigart Valley Falls of 
 West Virginia, when seen during a flood. Quite picturesque, but 
 to those who have seen Niagara, Yosemite and the Yellowstone 
 Falls, thej seem rather tame. 
 
 We arrived at Wiesbaden late in the afternoon, and were 
 driven to our hotel through the most beautiful street of our tour. 
 Such a driveway could only be maintained in a health resort, for the 
 traffic of a business city would make it impossible. A wide asphalt 
 roadway is bordered with paved side walks, and grass like velvet. 
 , At regular intervals are shaded trees of uniform size, under which 
 are placed comfortable seats At the root of each tree a rambler 
 rose is planted, and the long branches are trained from tree to tree 
 in most graceful festoons. At the time of our visit these festoons 
 were in full bloom. Handsomely dressed ladies were seated in the 
 shade, and pretty children played about them in the grass. The 
 etlect can more easily be imagined than described. 
 
 We stopped at the Palast Hotel, quite near the hot baths for 
 which this town is famous. Here we found every comfort, and 
 every luxury that modern hotel life can supply. After dinner we 
 visited a near-by public garden -not a beer garden by any means — 
 where we met many of our fellow pilgrims. We spent a delightful 
 evening in this scene of enchantment, exchanging experiences and 
 impressions of travel as we watched the gay passing throng, the 
 play of the fountains in their gorgeous electric illumination, while 
 
above, beneath, and all-pervading were the strains of such music as 
 only Germany can produce. 
 
 THE RHINE. 
 
 Next morning after an early visit to the baths, we were taken 
 by trolley through the town, and then five miles out to the river 
 where a steamboat awaited us for the journey down the Rhine. 
 Our experienced travelers passed a word of caution here, in regard 
 to the pilfering tendencies of the souvenir peddlers, who ply their 
 trade on the Rhine boats, — the dying embers, possibly, of the old 
 time piracy on the river, for we met it no where else in Europe. 
 
 The river itself, aside from its scenic attractions and historical 
 associations, is of interest as the great artery through which flows 
 the commerce of the north and south. It is alive with traffic. 
 Steam tugs towing great heavily loaded scows and barges, were 
 always in sight. Here we saw the first coal and lumber in transit. 
 A railroad with its flying trains follows the shore line on each side 
 as on our Hudson. Both banks are protected the entire way with 
 heavy masonry. 
 
 The first place of note to be reached is the busy town of 
 Mavence, or Mainz. Here the name of Gutenberg, the discoverer 
 of the art of printing, is held in respect almost bordering on rever- 
 ence. Above on the vine clad hills, stand the tower and ruins of 
 the old castle of Bromserberg. Not far distant on the opposite side 
 is seen upon the summit of a high hill, the great "National Monu- 
 ment of Germans," which commemorates the unanimous uprising of 
 the people in the restoration of the German Empire in 1870-71. 
 
 Then Bingen, "Fair Bingen on the Rhine," came into view. 
 The "Bingen" which the art of its neighbor's pride, Gutenberg, has 
 made familiar to school boys the world over. It was amusing to 
 hear our gray-haired school boys aboard declaim the woes of the 
 "soldier that lay dying in Algiers." It seems to be a busy town, 
 and for beauty of situation might bring home sickness to its sons 
 wherever they stray. 
 
 Just below in a sharp bend of the river, is a small island on 
 which stands the ancient Mouse Tower, now used as a signal station. 
 The name grew from an old legend. The story goes that in the 
 olden time, a crafty Baron who lay in wait here to exact toll from 
 passing vessels, forseeing great want through a failure of the crops, 
 
bought up all the grain and held it at fabulous prices. To escape 
 the fury of the starving people, he locked himself and his grain in 
 tin's stronghold, but an army of mice invaded the tower, and 
 devoured the old man along with his grain. 
 
 That no part of the castellated heights might escape us, we 
 vibrated from side to side of the boat; for no turn of the river is 
 without its charm. In response to one of the many calls: "Oh, 
 look !" "Don't miss this !" and the like, a young lady making 
 hurried notes, turned her head for a minute; on glancing back at 
 her work she missed her fountain pen. A hurried search was made 
 in which all her neighbors joined, but no trace of it could be found. 
 Later in the day a young fellow who had been busy on deck, 
 announced that he had found a pen on the companion-way. It 
 proved to be the missing article, and he demanded a reward equal 
 to the price of the pen. Some of our men folks delivered a quiet 
 American ultimatum to the fellow, and restored the pen to the 
 owner. 
 
 A great castle fully restored, standing high above the river, 
 was pointed out as the property of Prince Henry of Prussia. It is 
 said to contain a valuable collection of art treasures. The castle 
 of Rheinfels, the largest on the Rhine, belongs to the German 
 Kmperor. Another standing out boldly on the steep hill side with 
 turret, tower and ramparts all complete as in the olden time, is the 
 property of a wealthy American. A little town nestles on the 
 shore beneath each dominating castle, and each town has its tall 
 watch tower. One can easily imagine the sentinel in his lofty 
 perch, watching the approaching merchant's craft that must pay 
 bountiful toll if it failed to elude his vigilance. 
 
 And the Lorelei famed in story and song. There it stood out 
 in the stream, its high rocky front narrowing the channel, and 
 causing a sharp bend in the river which made a point of danger 
 to old navigators. The legend which inspired Heine and other 
 German writers, tells how the beautiful syrens who inhabited this 
 hill, came out upon the rock, and combing their beautiful hair 
 with golden combs in the sunlight, lured the entranced sailors to 
 their death in the treacherous channels below, and thus possessed 
 themselves of the wrecked cargo. 
 
 At the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine stands a 
 monument to William I. Many of these castles were devasted in 
 
times of war and are still in ruins. Some of them have passed 
 into tho hands of the Society for the Preservation of German 
 Castles. Only one, the Marksburg, has been preserved through 
 the centuries from the hand of the destroyer. Some have been 
 the scenes of fierce fights in the Middle Ages, and their defense arc 
 thrilling episodes in history. 
 
 COLOGNE. 
 
 Cologne lies in a fine open country, and is connected by a 
 magnificent iron bridge with the town of Deutz on the opposite 
 side of the Rhine. It is an old city, having been founded by the 
 Romans. It is of the usual German type, well-built, substantial 
 and clean. The water front was alive with the bustle and stir of 
 traffic, and every variety of river craft was to be seen. 
 
 The two tall spires of the world-renowned Cathedral were the 
 first to greet us as we came in sight of the city. Our hotel was in 
 its immediate vicinity, and we found the principal objects of interest 
 within easy reach. We were up "by times" the next morning, and 
 read) r for a tour of inspection. 
 
 The Cathedral occupies a central position and covers a large 
 area. On three sides the near-by buildings are too near to allow a 
 fair estimate of its immensity and beauty. Only from a plaza on 
 the fourth side can one get an uninterrupted perspective; and then 
 words fail, we can only look and wonder in silence. It is Germany's 
 most imposing structure, and the finest Gothic building in the 
 world. It was begun in 1248 and finished in 1880 at a cost of 
 $10,000,000. The interior is beyond my powers of description. 
 There are massive marble columns, exquisite sculpture and paint- 
 ings, magnificent altars with all the glittering paraphernalia 
 connected with the service. 
 
 From the cathedral we were taken to the church of St. 
 Ursula. This is an old stone building gray with age. Inside the 
 room flagged floors and wooden benches spoke of service running 
 back through the centuries, to the time when art was young. At 
 intervals along the walls are placed huge stone coffins said to 
 contain the remains of the martyrs for whose entombment this 
 church was built. 
 
 Passing into an annex, we found ourselves in a room devoted 
 
to those martyrs and a shrine to St. Ursula. The story connected 
 with the relics was given us by the priest in charge. 
 
 He spoke excellent English, and told the story in a most 
 interesting way. lie was careful to explain that he was giving us 
 an ancient tradition which is not always borne out by history or 
 modern investigation. Evidently it was to him, as to us, useful 
 and interesting only as a revelation of the far away dawn of 
 Christianity, when men, groping for the light, saw "men as trees 
 walking." 
 
 This is the story he told. An English princess of the long, 
 long ago was to be married, and asked that she might be allowed 
 iirst to make a pilgrimage to Rome. This was granted and she set 
 out upon her journey accompanied by 1100 young women as 
 companions. Having successfully performed the sacred duty, they 
 returned in safety to the site of this city. Here they were set upon 
 by a tribe of Huns and massacred. Years after their bones were 
 carefully collected and this church erected for their preservation, 
 and to commemorate the lives of the pious princess and her fellow 
 martyrs. 
 
 The dome-like ceiling of the room which we were shown is 
 entirely covered with small bones arranged in geometrical designs. 
 ( )n a breast high shelf, somewhat like the top of a wainscot extend- 
 ing around the walls, the skulls are displayed. These are gayly 
 decorated in gilding and bright colors covering their entire surface. 
 They are all of normal size; but the bones on the walls and ceiling 
 are those of diminutive women. Possibly only small bones were 
 selected. It certainly is a gruesome exhibition. Another version 
 of the story given us was, that once upon a time when England was 
 threatened with an invasion of the Danes, the women and children 
 were sent here for safety, but were destroyed by the Huns. Some 
 anatomists who have examined this collection, profess to have found 
 the bones of dogs among them. 
 
 We were shown an ancient shrine of rare workmanship, and a 
 cracked alabaster box said to be the one broken to annoint the 
 Master's feet. It was brought from Nazareth by the crusaders. 
 it is in the shape of an ancient vase and is quite large. We had 
 been told that this church possessed the handkerchief with which 
 Veronica wiped the Master's face on His way to Calvary. One of 
 our ladies asked to see it but was told they only had a copy. It 
 
wasn't shown. The art gallery in Cologne displays the original 
 portrait of Queen Louise. 
 
 IN THE STOKES. 
 
 In contradiction of its name, Mark Twain designated this city 
 as a place of bad smells. We detected nothing malodorous, and 
 saw no cologne factories; but every store we entered displayed 
 perfumery, and every salesman seemed to think that was what we 
 had come for, regardless of the rigid search at the English custom 
 house for continental perfumery. 
 
 Each change of country brought a new monetary system to be 
 learned. Before leaving Italy we had become familiar with the 
 centime and the lira. The lira — 20 cents nearly — was easily 
 managed, but to be asked twenty-five centimes for the merest trifle 
 seemed appalling, till we remembered to divide by five, and reached 
 the nickel of our comprehension. Journeying north we orossed 
 frontiers so frequently that we scarcely learned one currency until 
 we passed to another. Banks and leading business places have a 
 wholesome regard for the American dollar, but the small trades- 
 man rarely knows any coinage but that of his own country. The 
 small pieces are most confusing and we learned to carry as little as 
 possible over to the next place. The mark — 20 cents — was easily 
 handled through Germany and Holland. The franc was seldom 
 refused anywhere. In one dry goods store I encountered a sales- 
 man who spoke English unusually well, but could only understand 
 a few phrases, such as "Do you speak English ?" etc. 
 
 Everywhere we met the finest courtesy. In a street car in 
 Zurich, the conductor very politely indicated to my friend that 
 her long hat pin must be removed. She smilingly complied, when 
 a lady opposite produced from her hand-bag, a hat pin shield 
 which she courteously offered. It was thankfully accepted— all 
 without a word — just a gracious courtesy which made language 
 superfluous. 
 
 We left Cologne by rail. The journey from this point carried 
 us away from the hills to a lower level country, with fine cattle 
 grazing everywhere. The fields are divided by ditches and canals^ 
 and wind- mills are always in sight. Here and there the low 
 thatched cottages betoken the life of labor, but not of poverty. 
 
The farms are as clean as well-kept gardens, and not a fool of 
 ground is wasted. As evening drew on, men and women passed 
 through the fields carrying milking stools, and with buckets 
 suspended from yokes across their shoulders. The cows were 
 Bcarcely disturbed in their grazing to be milked. The comfortable 
 looking farm houses with their numerous outbuildings, all of stone 
 and with red tiled roof's, have a settled come-to-stay appearance 
 that bespeak a contented people. 
 
 The week had been a strenuous one: but the excellent 
 accommodation provided for us at the Hague promised a good, 
 quiet Sunday rest. 
 
THE HAGUE. 
 
 The very name suggests wide spreading trees, shaded walks 
 and drives, and forest parks. It is literally a city in the woods, a 
 pleasant change from the open, low country through which we had 
 been traveling. Our hotel here bordered a public square on which 
 stands the palace of the Queen Mother, the building occupied by 
 Napoleon when in power here and several (inc administration 
 buildings. Not far away is the church in which the present Queen 
 was married. 
 
 Our rooms were large and exquisitely furnished, and the table 
 was excellent. Our party seemed to (ill every available space. 
 Two of our ladies occupied a private parlor which naturally be- 
 came the rallying point for the feminine portion of our section. 
 The weather was bright, but so cool that wraps were necessary 
 during our stay. We frequently saw ladies in furs on the streels. 
 
 While at breakfast Sunday morning a gentleman came in to 
 invite us to an English service in a church near. He proved to be 
 a delegate from this country to a Congress of the Association for 
 the Suppression of the Opium Traffic, then in session in the city. 
 Some of our party went for the day to Leyden, the port from which 
 the Pilgrim Fathers sailed for the new world, others to Delft — 
 both nearby cities. The majority rested in their rooms. 
 
 A Sabbath quiet seemed to prevail. The church hour is much 
 earlier in this country than with us. It filled the streets with 
 well-clothed, quietly moving people, singly, in pairs, and in family 
 groups, each one carrying a book of service. The afternoon 
 brought out what seemed to be a more holiday throng. Young 
 men and their sweethearts, evidently husbands and wives, sweet- 
 hearts still even when surrounded by their children, for they all 
 walked hand in hand. Each young man gave the girl his arm, 
 and then protected the clinging hand so tenderly. This seemed to 
 be an established custom and no violation of propriety. 
 
 Of course we knew our own party, but in the mixed crowd of 
 diners there was no way of determining different nationalities_we 
 all looked alike. Lxnguage was no assistance there, for in Europe 
 the public is no place for conversation. The low voice does not 
 carry beyond the ear to which it is directed. We Americans had 
 by this time become unconsciously subdued, an exemplification of 
 the influence of environment. 
 
Monday morning wo started early for the drive over the city. 
 Passing' the Zoological Gardens we drove through the great forest- 
 like park to the House-in-thc- Woods where the Peace Congress is 
 held. This palace, though a royal residence, has a rather unpre- 
 tentious appearance from the outside. Those of Germany and 
 Holland are more severe in their outlines than elsewhere in Europe. 
 This one .is of stone and red brick, and faces a very pretty court- 
 yard. Entering from the park the view is unobstructed; the other 
 buildings extend from the sides and rear. The royal family occupy 
 the upper floors. At that time they were in Haarlem, but were 
 expected to spend August here. We were taken through the state 
 apartments on the first-floor. These rooms are beautifully decor- 
 ated, and contain masterpieces of pictures and statuary. Every 
 ornament has a history — the gift of king, queen or nation. 
 
 The room in which the Congress is held was called the Orange 
 room, and was originally the ball-room of the palace. It is circular 
 in shapo, and the walls arc covered with paintings by Pubens and 
 his pupils, symbolical of the life of Prince Henry— a tribute to his 
 memory by his wife. The most notable object in this room is the 
 Peace Door. That it was constructed long before the agitation 
 for universal peace, is an evidence of the kindly heart of the Hol- 
 lander It is being opened by two life-size figures, on one side an 
 angel representing peace, on the other Hercules representing 
 strength. 
 
 The entire furnishing of one room is the production of China's 
 highest art — a gift from that nation. The lights in the great 
 chandelier are arranged in egg-shell tea cups with the saucers 
 inverted as shades. Another room was the gift of Japan. There 
 we saw teak wood furniture with wonderful hand carvings, and the 
 most exquisite inlays of ivory and mother-of-pearl; screens and 
 cabinets the work of a life time. On the walls are seen paintings 
 by Japanese artists. We were shown the room in which Queen 
 Sophia died. It is kept as it was at the time of her death. The 
 bed with its heavy drapery partly drawn, is still in the disarranged 
 condition of the death scene, the silk coverlet having been drawn 
 up over the pillows. 
 
 The morning drive through the level forest to Schevenigen on 
 the North Sea — the Atlantic City of Holland — was most delight- 
 ful. We passed through the town first; through a long street 
 
bordered with the usual trading places found near pleasure resorts. 
 Stores of souvenirs, post-cards, stationery. Shops for laces of 
 native hand work, Dutch caps and wooden shoes. Laundries, 
 bakeries, restaurants, with men in native dress and wooden shots 
 smoking long pipes wailing for customers. And beyond, out of 
 sight of this homely- every- day life, we came to the sea with its 
 great stretch of beach and rolling surf, with its crovvd of pleasure- 
 seekers loitering on the sand, filling the queer hooded willow beach 
 chairs, and passing in and out of the bath houses. These arc 
 small constructions on wheels, with steps leading up to a door in 
 front. They are drawn down to the water edge, making the transit 
 to the surf shorter and less public than at our sea-side rcroTts. 
 The fishwomen in their picturesque dress and wooden shoes, return- 
 ing from the boats in the distance witli loaded baskets on their 
 heads, added quaintness to the scene. The great hotels and other 
 buildings are placed some distance from the water, thus giving 
 a wide, comprehensive view, unobstructed by the bathing houses, 
 picture galleries, or other ugly catch-penny places that so detract 
 from the beauty of American beaches. 
 
 Returning to the city we saw the famous Peace Palace then 
 nearing completion. Our guide was careful to remind us of the 
 $250,000 Mr. Carnegie had put in it. In the old section we visit- 
 ed the old prison famous in the time of the Spanish invasion. 
 While waiting on the pavement to be admitted, .our guide said, 
 "You are now standing on the spot where in 1G72 John DcWitt, a 
 Dutch statesman and patriot, and his brother were murdered." 
 This gave me the initial chill. Passing through a heavy, narrow 
 door into an entry, we were first taken to the small court around 
 which the prison is built. In an angle of the wall is a small brick 
 one and a half story building of two rooms. In the lower room 
 the condemned man was put for his last day and given his last 
 meal. The room above has but one outside opening, a window in 
 the gable about six feet from the opposite wall where a door and 
 window open into the kitchen. Here those sentenced to death by 
 starvation were left to die with the scent of food cooking always 
 in their nostrils. 
 
 Inside the prison the cells are reached by narrow, steep stone 
 stairs, and along low narrow passages lighted by high barred win- 
 dows. The doors are of massive oak with great iron hinges and 
 
bolts. In one room larger and lighter than the rest, is a collection 
 of t he arms and utensils of that aire. Here too, are preserved the 
 instruments of torture that were used to bring the noncompromis- 
 ing to terms. In a huge stone fire-place hang the branding irons. 
 In the centre of the roDm are pilccl the rack with its horrible 
 equipment, and the stocks. On the walls arc displayed the pincers, 
 thumbscrews, and the melancholy writings of the condemned. 
 Every tiling is old, worn and original. Nothing is a replica. On 
 the top floor is one room the fbor of which is six hundred years 
 old. It is worn in hollows and ruts and worm-eaten, but is still 
 strong and serviceable. I passed out into the light and cheer of 
 present day conditions, wondering if civilized man could ever re- 
 lapse into such cruel barbarity. 
 
 AMSTERDAM AND ISLE OF MARKEN. 
 
 As we journeyed through the region of bogs and marshes which 
 lie too low for natural drainage, we were interested in observing 
 the method of reclaiming the land. Land protected by dikes is 
 lined with ditches from which the water is pumped into canals by 
 windmills. The railroads are built on these dikes. We saw many 
 varieties of water-fowl. Domestic ducks and lccsc were plentiful, 
 and an occasional blue heron came into view. Here and there a 
 stork stood on one leg in the conventional manner. We had be- 
 come accustomed to the sight of their huge nests on house tops. 
 
 Some of the windmills are so large that the ground floors are 
 occupied by families. Our train obligingly stopped to give our 
 camera fiends a snap at the most picturesque. Fine cattle were 
 always in sight. All kinds of vegetables are grown, not only for 
 home consumption, but for the extensive export trade in seeds. 
 
 Our hotel at Haarlem was very comfortable, but the effort to 
 accommodate such a large party seemed a tax upon its facilities. 
 My chum and I were ensconced in the winter dining-room. It was 
 a large room with lofty ceiling, elaborately furnished and decorat- 
 ed in true Dutch style. The great tiled fireplace supported a 
 mantle with quaint Delft ornaments. The massive buffet extend- 
 ing almost to the ceiling, the high paneled wainscot with its plate 
 rail, were all of old oak in beautiful carving. Every pottery on 
 the Continent seemed to have contributed to the display of china, 
 i lie waxed parquetry floor displayed a handsome drugget and rugs. 
 
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A glance around revealed a bed in each corner, and on the big din- 
 ing table four separate groups of toilet accessories. The two 
 Australian ladies who were to share this magnificent incongruity 
 with us, took the situation philosophically; my friend was indig- 
 nant, but I enjoyed the new experience and was only sorry I had 
 so little time for investigation. 
 
 A crowd of bright-faced but curious youngsters filled the side- 
 walk before the entrance to the hotel to see the "menagerie;" but 
 after a little talk with our German speaking folks they quietly 
 scattered. Haarlem is just like other busy, clean, well-built Dutch 
 cities. Our ladies visited the shops in search of the queer white- 
 winged caps the women wear. 
 
 Next morning we went to the Isle of Marken by the way of 
 Amsterdam, where we were transferred from the train to a boat. 
 The scone in the harbor is full of interest. Vessels of all descrip- 
 tions are to be seen. We landed a few miles out, where we crossed 
 quite a peninsula by trolley, passing through quaint old towns to 
 the most ancient of all, Monnikendam on the Zuyder Zee. Here 
 we took steamer over this beautiful arm of the German Ocean. 
 The day was fine, and the little islands dotted the horizon like 
 emeralds. 
 
 Marken has a population of about 1200. The men are deep 
 sea fishermen. The women and the old men do the farming; they 
 were getting in the hay at the time of our visit. As we neared the 
 wharf the women engaged in rinsing their wash in the sea never 
 paused in their work; but some men and little children from the 
 village were posed on the bank to see the landing. They seemed 
 to understand that they were part of the show, were accustomed to 
 it, and prized the privilege. 
 
 These people wear the same dress and lead the same life that 
 their ancestors did fourteen hundred years ago, — and there is 
 money in it to them now. Marken is a show place that attracts 
 hundreds of tourists every year. The women and children dress 
 alike. When the boys reach seven years they assume the dress of 
 the men. There are no children's styles. The dress consists of a 
 dark woolen skirt gathered in very full at the waist, and reaching 
 halfway from the knee to the foot; above this is a close fitted round 
 waist of gay material with a bright kerchief about the neck A 
 flowered cap fits the head, closely tied under the chin, and before 
 
each ear a long curl hangs clown. The children's hair floats over 
 their shoulders from beneath the cap. To distinguish the boy, a 
 round patch about the size of a silver dollar is sewed to the crown 
 of his cap. Every woman and girl who was not otherwise employ. 
 ed was knitting woolen stockings. These with wooden shoes cover 
 their feet even in summer. The men aro topped with flat caps with 
 visors. They wear short tight jackets, and trousers so wide they 
 are gathered in at the waist like the women's skirts. 
 
 We were shown their homes with the quaint box beds and fat 
 pillows, their old Dutch dishes and cooking utensils, while in and 
 out and all around us, rosy flaxen haired girls drove a thriving 
 trade in post cards, wooden shoes in miniature, and Dutch place- 
 oards. I suspect they would sell anything not an everyday neces- 
 sity, except their wedding clothes which are handed down from 
 generation to generation. Fashion never changes here. 
 
 Returning, we wandered over the queer old town of Monni- 
 kendam, — visited a kindergarten in charge of two Sisters who re- 
 ceived us cordially and had the children sing for us. Then we 
 entered the town church, where tablets in the floor indicate the 
 graves of their notable dead The tower and belfry of the oldest 
 church are all that remain. This bell still proclaims the hour, and 
 a bugler blows a horn on a little balcony below; while a horseman 
 prances round followed by a footman. This is the original ap- 
 paratus, — bell, figures, cloc;k-work and all, —that was placed here 
 when the church was built in the 14th century. 
 
 In Amsterdam we visited the public buildings. In the art 
 galleries we saw the masterpieces of Dutch art, notably those of 
 Rembrandt. His "Night Watch" and "Anatomical Lesson" once 
 seen can never be forgotten. Our visit to the diamond cutters was 
 of peculiar interest. The building is solid, grimy and prison-like. 
 The doors and passages narrow, and the windows below are high 
 and barred. We were taken, a half dozen at a time, to the upper 
 floor, where the processes were carefully explained and demonstrat- 
 ed. We were shown replicas of all the famous diamonds in the 
 world the Koh-i-noor, the Cullinan, the Blue Diamond, etc. 
 
 Amsterdam, like Venice, is built upon islands reinforced by 
 piles. But unlike Venice, its streets are regular and wide with 
 canals through the centre; on each side are ample drives and wide 
 
tree-lined side-walks. These canals greatly facilitate the enormous 
 foreign traffic for which the city is noted. 
 
 The window mirrors are unique to say the least. They are 
 sometimes set in the wide outside frame, and sometimes project be- 
 yond the window from an iron bracket attached to the frame in 
 such a way as to give the person inside a view of the passerby. 
 
 A second hand market extends square after square. Here is 
 exposed for sale everything that humanity needs. It is piled in 
 heaps, stretched out in windrows in the open, and in every stage of 
 decline from the barely used to refuse for the scrap pile. After a 
 most interesting drive over the city we returned by train to Haar- 
 lem for the night. 
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 From Holland we passed into this hive of industry. The soil 
 here we were told is not favorable to agriculture; but necessity is a 
 wonderful spur, and the farmers are said to be the best in Europe. 
 The wealth of Belgium lies in its minerals, of which iron and coal 
 are the most important. It is the source of fuel supply for France, 
 and we saw great barges of it on the Rhine. The products of 
 Belgian factories are confessedly superior. 
 
 Brussels, where we made headquarters, has a population of 
 850,000. It is a gay city, sometimes called another Paris. It is 
 built for beauty, and is wonderfully decorated with handsome 
 squares, public gardens, fountains, arches and statuary. To the 
 casual observer there seems to be nothing distinctively Belgian. 
 Their public buildings are magni6cent — less austere than in 
 Holland — but the life we saw about us seemed to be a commingling 
 of Dutch and French. Dutch solidity modifies French frivolity. 
 Germany makes haste slowly. Belgium is busy and swift; French 
 is spoken, French money circulates. 
 
 Our first afternooD here was so showery that I declined joining 
 an auto party to Waterloo which lies ten miles south, and went 
 with others to see the wonderful laces and other textile attractions 
 of the jity Here I had trouble in exchanging American money 
 for French. On one busy street we found ourselves part of a great 
 crowd which filled the side-walks for squares. We were told that 
 this was the day for the annual pageant in honor of Motherhood, 
 Industry and Temperance. A custom which has been observed in 
 the same manner for centuries. 
 
The parade, four deep, was headed by a fine band in gay uni- 
 form. This was followed by a float bearing a group of statuary, a 
 mother and her children, with a large mounted escort in medieval 
 costumes, (their hair cut square across the shoulder), with lance at 
 rest, and the prancing horses gay with nodding plumes, gilded 
 mountings and with gold fringed covers. Then came a procession 
 of boys in white uniform representing the youth of the land. Each 
 carried a tall pole with garlands and flying ribbons. A battalion 
 of cavalry came next. Industry was represented by a body of 
 young men also in while, carrying red shields displaying emblems 
 of the guilds. A float carried a beautiful girl in white drapery — 
 the emblem of Temperance. Each division of the parade had its 
 medieval and military escort, its music and its long line of footmen, 
 all marching with military precision. To western eyes it was a 
 revelation of far away times — a sight that compensated for the loss 
 of the visit to the battlefield. King Albert and Queen Elizabeth 
 reviewed the parade from a hotel nearby. 
 
 The site of the original town is a level plain. Here are 
 many old buildings of historic interest, kept in repair and still in 
 use. Brussels tolerates no ruins. The newer and more fashionable 
 section of the city is oa the easy slope of a hillside. Here are the 
 king's palace, the administration buildings and the diplomatic resi- 
 dences. The streets are wide, the grounds spacious, and beautifully 
 planned and ornamented. 
 
 We were driven through fine streets lined with elegant homes, 
 that five years ago were marshes. They boast of a growth that 
 averages 3000 new buildings a year. If I had been told this of 
 some of our frontier towns, I would have accepted it with due 
 allowance, as a manifestation of our western exuberance. I give it 
 here as it was given to me. There is, however, abundant evidence 
 of marvelous growth. 
 
 The Arch of Triumph commemorating the independence of 
 Belgium, is one of the ornaments of the city. The great palace 
 built by Leopold II, which he presented to the government just 
 before his death, is a masterpiece of modem architecture, but very 
 suggestive of tlie blood money drawn from the Congo Free State. 
 
 The Court of Justice is not only one of the finest in Europe, 
 but it is the largest compact building. The entire building as it 
 now stands is on the original plan, built to completion under the 
 
personal supervision of one architect, with no afterthought of an- 
 nexes. It is the great work of one man's life, and so absorbed he 
 became in its development, that when it stood complete he was 
 taken to a sanitarium, a nervous wreck. The most pathetic feature 
 of the story is that upon his recovery the memory of his accom- 
 plishment was entirely gone from him. He did not remember the 
 building, or that lie had ever had anything to do with it. 
 
 Passing the carriages of a bridal party, our guide took us to 
 the City Hall to sec the civil ceremony. Certain days in the week 
 are reserved here for marriages of royalty and nobility. Other 
 classes are never married on these days.' This happened to be an 
 upper class day. We stood in line in the long ante-room before the 
 open door to the court, and saw the signing of papers, registration, 
 etc. Then the procession marched by us to the stair leading to the 
 courtyard. First came the ushers and the groom, then the bride 
 and her father, following were young ladies and matrons and 
 elderly men. The men were in court dress, some in military full 
 dress; the ladies looked just as our well-to-do look upon such occa- 
 sions. The bride was a beautiful young woman, tall and stately. 
 She wore white satin made plain with a long train, and her veil was 
 exquisite. The groom was not to be distinguished from his friends. 
 The bride never takes his arm until after the ceremony at the 
 church. A maid in plain dark clothes hurried forward to carry 
 the bride's train to the carriage. 
 
 Wc were shown the House of Parliament. Adjoining,, on 
 either side, arc residences belonging to the government. The 
 senators, who are elected every four years, arc required to live in 
 th.'se houses. Passing through the city wc saw dogs in harness 
 under the carts instead of in the shafts as in Switzerland. Every- 
 where we saw the wonderful horses of which Belgium is so proud. 
 We were shown the horse market as one of the sights of the city. 
 The annual exhibits here bring buyers from all Europe. 
 
 Coming south from Belgium there were mines and iron works, 
 smoke and grime everywhere, as in our own industrial centres, 
 Belgium pensions its old miners, and well it may, for they are 
 important factors in its growth and increase of wealth. 
 
FRANCE. 
 
 All the way down to Paris, through the great suburb to the 
 very limit of the city proper, there was evidence on every side of 
 vast manufacturing interests. 
 
 After a long drive through the city we turned rather abruptly 
 into a narrow street where we came to a halt before a quaint old 
 building with small barred windows high up on the ground floor, 
 a steep roof five stories up with narrow dormer windows. When 
 shown to our rooms we passed through a lofty vaulted corridor. 
 Many of the rooms to which our party was conducted were on the 
 upper floors and there was no elevator. They were small and 
 poorly ventilated. Three young ladies were taken to a narrow 
 room with sloped ceiling on the top floor, lighted with a dormer 
 window. My room was on the second floor, roomy, but unques- 
 tionably dingy. The house was built around a court, and the 
 dining-room was a part of the loggia closed in with glass. The 
 dinner was elaborate — on the menu; but true French thrift was 
 shown in the portions served. Something was wrong, and nobody 
 unpacked. A continental breakfast was served — coffee, rolls and 
 butter— instead of the stipulated American breakfast. Outside 
 inquiry disclosed the fact that this was an old monastery turned 
 into a dollar-a-day hotel, low grade, second class. We went from 
 the breakfast directly to the carriages for the day's drive. 
 
 At noon our gentlemen directed the guide to leave us at the 
 Tourist's Agency Building, and an interesting time followed in the 
 office of the officials who had made our Paris hotel arrangement. 
 Our contract had been violated, and somebody on the ground was 
 grafting. While this was going on, I crossed the square to a 
 pretty tea-room for lunch. When they charged me one franc— 20 
 cents -for a glass of milk, I understood why French stocking legs 
 could so readily disgorge that heavy indemnity after the war with 
 Germany. 
 
 When we drove up to our hotel that evening about six o'clock, 
 the carriage doors were not opened, nobody dismounted, and we 
 wondered what was to follow, but when the porters came dumping 
 our luggage into the carriages we knew a change was to be made. 
 Down into the heart of the city we went, through the life and stir 
 of a busy people; turning a corner at the Madeleine we were un- 
 loaded at a hotel just beyond and within easy reach of almost 
 
everything desirable. We were made perfectly comfortable, and 
 felt that now we were in Paris. 
 
 On the first day we visited the few relics of the olden time; for 
 Paris retains only those of special interest. The Notre Dame is 
 known the world over. The church of the Crown of Thorns is of 
 peculiar interest because of its quaint style, and because of the 
 tradition that the original Crown of Thorns is here preserved. 
 The chief attractions of Paris are connected with the latter day 
 history. The beauty of its architecture and its streets exceeds any- 
 thing we had ssen, and appeals to all of the artistic in one's nature. 
 But every arch has a history, every plaza is a commemoration, every 
 fountain marks a French triumph and every statue tells in some 
 way of the glory of France. 
 
 We visited the Court of Justice with its prison beneath, the 
 place where Louis XVI and his queen, Marie Antoinette, were 
 tried and condemned; saw the prison gate through which she was 
 led to the place of execution, and looked upon the spot where the 
 guillotine stood. The place where the raging mob swayed and rent 
 the air with howling execrations, is now one of the beauty spots of 
 the earth. On the opposite side of the Place de la Concorde is the 
 Elysee, the official residence of the President of the Republic, — 
 once the private residence of the Napoleons. 
 
 We passed through the great Arch of Triumph, the largest in 
 the world, down the Champs Elysees with its beautiful vistas, 
 crossed and re-crossed the Seine to see its most famous bridges; 
 here the guide called our attention to the high water marks of the 
 recent great flood. 
 
 Contrary to preconceived impressions, the Latin Quarter is a 
 very attractive part of the city. It was the home of royalty in 
 earlier days; now it is the seat of their greatest institutions of 
 learning. Here is the Sorbonne, that famous Parisian School of 
 Protestant Theology; here are schools of art, of technology, of medi- 
 cine and law. The Louvre and Luxemburg, where the unbridled 
 luxury of kings and their lordly retinues bred discontent among the 
 masses, and made the revolution possible, are now great centres of 
 art. To walk the galleries of the Louvre and see all of its treas- 
 ures one must cover seven miles. 
 
 Among the leading objects shown us here was the place from 
 
which the Mona Lisa was stolen. The spice it occupied is quite 
 small, not more than 18x24 inches. 
 
 Our guide was careful to explain that the real Latin Quarter 
 and that known abroad arc quite different. How much of strain 
 and stress, and how much of unconventional life goes on behind 
 those walls, we could only guess. None of it was apparent in these 
 wide, beautifully shaded streets with no confusion or bustle of trade, 
 nor in the people moving about. A quiet scholastic atmosphere 
 pervaded the place. 
 
 The Madeleine must be seen to be appreciated. The exterior 
 differs materially from other great churches, but the interior re- 
 veals the same wonderful altars and rich adornment we had seen 
 elsewhere. We were told that the form of service here is the 
 highest in the world. 
 
 The Hotel des Invalids— Soldiers' Home — was founded in 
 1G70. This being a time of peace for France, it has but eleven 
 inmates. It has an interesting collection of military paintings, old 
 armor and arms. The chapel is adorned with old battle flags. 
 Napoleon, dying at St. Helena, asked lo be laid to rest here among 
 his old comrades. His magnificent tomb adjoins the chapel, just 
 beyond is a room for the interment of the Bonaparte family. 
 
 The massive sarcophagus of the dead warrior is placed in a 
 depression in the centre of the room, and we saw it from the level 
 of the floor. As I looked down upon it in its gorgeous entomb- 
 ment, I thought of an unpretentious resting place among the trees 
 on a far-away hillside, where rests our heroic dead — Washington. 
 "The world passeth away and the lusts thereof— but he that doeth 
 the will of God abideth forever." 
 
 ON THE ROYAL ROAD. 
 
 Early one morning we drove out the Champ de Elysees to the 
 Bois de Boulogne, an immense heavily timbered park, and were 
 shown its points of special attraction. Among these is a palace set 
 back among the trees, built in one month by Louis XVI for Marie 
 Antoinette. Some distance from the roadway are the ruins of St. 
 Cloud— the only ruins we were shown in Paris; the Bastile and 
 Tuileries have disappeared entirely. We passed Longchamps, the 
 famous race course. 
 
 Paris is situated in a valley surrounded by hills. One of 
 
these begins at the outer limit of the park, and as we ascended the 
 rising ground we passed through the thriving town of Bolognc— a 
 centre of automobile building. This royal road to the city of 
 Versailles is lined with country seats and busy villages. The hist 
 long hill brought us to the summit where we rested the horses 
 among curio dealers who seemed to consider us their lawful prey. 
 From this point our route lay through a pretty rolling country of 
 grain fields and market gardens. We passed a "Home for Dis- 
 abled Ironworkers," founded and maintained bj- a wealthy iron- 
 master of Paris. Clean, contented looking old men lounged in the 
 shade and pottered about the fine grounds. 
 
 VERSAILLES. 
 
 This city of 00,000 is an administration town. The elections 
 are held here. It is a home of the rich, and of the people neces- 
 sary to its maintenance. The original town was partly torn down 
 to make room for homes for the court. 
 
 Entering the woods of the great park, we first visited the 
 Petit Trianon, built by Louis XV, and afterward the favorite 
 abode of Marie Antoinette. Many traces remain of the unfortun- 
 ate queen. Some of the original furniture is still in the rooms she 
 occupied; the other pieces are reproductions. Her jewel case is 
 still in its place in her bedroom. Everywhere are pictures, statuary 
 and ornamental pieces of priceless value. The Gobelin tapestries 
 are especially interesting. The making of these is controlled by 
 the government, and they can only be obtained by official permit. 
 
 In the carriage house we saw the various conveyances used by 
 royalty, from the sedan chair and sledges of remote ages, to the gor- 
 geous gilded carriages of Napoleon III and Eugenic. Many of 
 them were built for a special occasion — a marriage, a christening, 
 or a coronation — and never used afterward. Around the walls in 
 glass cases hang the saddles, bridles and glittering harness of the 
 most luxuriously extravagant period since the fall of the Roman 
 Empire. Ln a cluster of trees not far away stands the little cot- 
 tage where Marie Antoinette and her ladies amused themselves as 
 dairymaids. 
 
 A drive through the park brought us to the city and the 
 Grand Trianon. This palace was built by Louis XIV for Madame 
 Main tenon, and was used afterward by successive sovereigns as a 
 
county residence. It is built of hewn stone and extends along the 
 sides and across the upper end of a large stone-paved rectangular 
 court. Approached on the lower side through the court, it has the 
 appearance of a military barrack. The central building across the 
 elevation is adorned with stone balconies, carvings and other 
 ornamentation. 
 
 Passing through the ground floor of this part of the palace wc 
 came out upon a wide terrace. Here the most conspicuous object 
 is a massive stone-rimmed fountain with mythological statuary. A 
 wide stone stair-way leads down to the grounds below— the wonder- 
 ful garden of Versailles, which extends as far as the eye can reach, 
 a panorama of bewildering vistas. Here are magnificent trees, 
 beautifully shaded drives and walks, artificial lakes, elaborate 
 fountains in which marble nymphs disport, groups of statuary, — a 
 veritable fairy land. 
 
 LOUIS XIV. 
 
 This wonderful creation absorbed millions of the public money. 
 The working class was compelled to give without remuneration, 
 certain days of the week to its construction, and all soldiers not in 
 the field were employed upon it. 
 
 The best that money could buy or art produce was used in 
 furnishing this palace. During the Revolution the most of it was 
 sold and the gold minted. After the restoration some of the furni- 
 ture was recovered and others duplicated,— gilding being substitut- 
 ed for gold — but the new pieces were almost as expensive as the 
 original. Everything is now the property of the Republic and is 
 open to the public. 
 
 Louis XIV came to the throne a child, and reigned seventy- 
 two years, so long that he finally proclaimed himself immortal. 
 He was probably the vainest man that ever ruled a nation. He 
 was vain of his power, of his possessions, of his long life; but vainest 
 of all of his personal appearance. It was not pride, for that implied 
 a degree of dignity; it was a silly, childish vanity that increased 
 with his years. In every room in that great palace this king is 
 portrayed in painting or marble in some striking costume or pose. 
 He was very proud of his flowing curly locks. As time began to 
 change them he wore wigs. He had wigs of all colors and styles — 
 ninety in all — and changed them as often as five times a day. In 
 
one room his portrait in has relief is adorned with one of the origi- 
 nal wigs — light-yellow hair mixed with grey. 
 
 We entered the bedroom of Louis XVI from which he was 
 called that fearful day when the mob from Paris filled the court 
 below, and demanded that the royal family return to the city and 
 care for the starving people. We saw the balcony from which he 
 made the promise, and the nearby window in which the queen ap- 
 peared with the dauphin to appease the furious outbreak. 
 
 Their criminal indifference to the needs of the nation brought 
 the royal pair back to the selfish luxurious life of the Trianon, and 
 led to the storming of thepil.ice We passed up the -'Queen's 
 Stairway" leading to her private apartment, where, in beating back 
 the mob to cover her flight, the brave Swiss guards lost their lives. 
 Just beyond is her bedroom from which the escape was made down 
 a private stairway, the door of which is so concealed that it seems 
 a part of the wall. 
 
 Napoleon lived here with Josephine. Their rooms are almost 
 as they left them; they still contain some personal belongings of 
 the royal pair. When Queen Victoria visited this palace after the 
 divorce, she was shown to Josephine's bedroom. "This," she said, 
 "is too fine for me." 
 
 The Hall of Mirrors is an immense salon richly adorned, the 
 floor is of polished marble. Here Napoleon slipped and fell when 
 dancing with Queen Victoria. One entire side is lined with mir- 
 rors, and the opposite side is of glass, giving a view over the terrace 
 below of the wonderful garden beyond. 
 
 BACK TO PARIS. 
 
 We lunched in Versailles, and for the first time on the conti- 
 nent, were served with uncooked tomatoes, cucumbers and celery. 
 We returned to Paris through Sevres, the town of the great china 
 potteries, and other interesting sections We passed ancient forti- 
 fications, saw remains of the old city wall and drove through the 
 old section of the city, reaching our hotel after a drive of thirty 
 miles so full of interest, that mind and body were tired out in the 
 effort to grasp it all. 
 
 Report of wonderful bargains in gloves, however, sent two of 
 us scurrying down the shopping district before the closing of the 
 
stores, only to discover that prices had reached American heights, 
 and we turned wearily homeward. 
 
 We looked in vain for exaggerated dress among the French 
 women. They are well, hut modestly dressed. The trimming is 
 rather more elaborate than here, and the material generally better; 
 but the extremes we sec in our inland towns, and read of in 
 Paris, are not encountered there except on the streets after night- 
 fall. 
 
 SUNDAY IN PARIS. 
 
 The day was perfect, not unlike our early June, although we 
 were in the closing days of July. We joined a party who were 
 making an early start to have time for the service at the Madeliene, 
 which we would pass on our way to the English service at the 
 Wesleyan church not far beyond. At the gateway to this famous 
 place of worship we passed a line of peddlers of postcards, souvenirs, 
 curios and periodicals, and a motley crowd of haggard beggars. 
 
 Climbing the wide marble steps to the portico, we passed be- 
 tween the great Corinthian columns into the. vestibule, and stood 
 within the entrance of the church proper. At an altar nearby a 
 clergyman was conducting the service; his glittering mitre and 
 magnificent sacerdotal robes in perfect keeping with the gorgeous 
 surroundings. Here and there groups sat or knelt devoutly. A 
 thin line of worshippers passed in to their scats, bowed a short time 
 reverently, then passed out as quietly as they came. A spirit of 
 quiet devotion prevailed, in strong contrast to the un-Sabbathlike 
 scene without. 
 
 A few squares beyond we entered the English Wesleyan 
 church. It is a plain but substantial building in the middle of a 
 block. The audience room on the second floor is comfortable and 
 seats about three hundred. The service was conducted by the pas- 
 tor, a fine specimen of English Methodism. The only unfamiliar 
 feature was the gown he wore in the pulpit. The sermon was 
 excellent and was made unusually impressive bv a perfect delivery, 
 and the fine personality of the speaker. At its close he gave a 
 welcome to the strangers present, and a brief talk on the condition 
 of the church. Among other things he spoke of the heavy tax 
 required by the government —a tax equal to the average salary our 
 ministers receive. No direct appeal was made for help, but his 
 statement had its effect when the usual collection was taken. After 
 
the service we were introduced to the minister and found him a 
 most affable gentleman. 
 
 THE BRITISH CHANNEL. 
 
 Those of us who were booked to return to Boston on the 
 Bohemian from Liverpool, were privileged to take a night boat 
 from Havre to Southampton, thereby gaining an additional day in 
 London. This is a long crossing but it meant a night's sleep with 
 probable escape from sea-sickness. Those who would visit Scotland 
 after London, were to take a train the following morning for 
 Dieppe and make a shorter crossing in a rougher sea. I joined the 
 night party, leaving Paris about 8:30. About twenty-five miles 
 out our train stopped in open country. Investigation proved that 
 we were behind a freight wreck. The waiting was long and tedious, 
 and visions of sleep on the boat and the extra day in London grew 
 dim. We were assured, however, that the steamer always waited 
 for the night train. 
 
 Many of the native passengers began to appear on the outside, 
 and that suggested to some of our folks that the outside might be 
 interesting and they joined the promenade. From my window I 
 observed the French fashion of beguiling the idle hours in the 
 moonlight, and soon noticed the reappearance in the train of our 
 American friends. The flirtations outside within my range of 
 vision were sufficient explanation. 
 
 After a long tiresome waiting another train pulled in beside 
 ours, we were to be transferred. The doors to European cars being 
 in the side and opening into each compartment, passing from one 
 train to another is not difficult. The doors of each train were 
 opened and we stepped across the narrow space between into the 
 opposite cars. 
 
 Chance brought our group of five into a compartment designed 
 for eight, which already held two, but two of our ladies required 
 space for three. By the time we were comfortably settled a French 
 couple came in. The man passed through, but the little woman 
 dropped down into the s^acc for three, almost in the lap of one of 
 our stout friends. Then she began to wiggle and twist to make 
 room for herself, to tiie accompaniment of voluble French and 
 pointings to the three of us in the opposite seat. Our folks gave 
 no sign that they saw or heard. In apparent despair she turned 
 
her French on her two compatriots. They replied in a perfectly 
 courteous manner, but showed no disposition to interfere. The 
 gentleman whom we found in the compartment had helped us to get 
 settled. He spoke excellent English and explained that this road 
 having run down, had been taken under government control so 
 recently that delays were still frequent. The wiggling and contor- 
 tions for room kept up, and those two fun-loving, keen-witted 
 "Yankees" sat in stolid silence, never moving a muscle of face or 
 body, and never yielded an inch of the space their aggregated four 
 hundred pounds required. The ludicrous situation was a severe 
 strain on our politeness until the waspish little woman finally gave 
 up the struggle, and made the best of the small space possible for 
 her accommodation. 
 
 Our progress was slow and the steps were frequent. We had 
 a starlight view of Rouen as we passed through, and regretted that 
 our long wait had not occurred there that we might have visited the 
 place made famous by the burning of Joan of Arc. The night was 
 nearly gone when wo reached Havre, but the waiting carriages 
 rushed us through the city to the dock. Iliad prided myself on 
 my seamanship, and had no desire to break my record on the 
 Channel. The rolling of the vessel as it got underway gave speed 
 to feet and fingers and I was soon in bed. 
 
 When I waked next morning the sun w r as shining in my pert 
 across a glittering sea as quiet as a mill pond. I hurried into my 
 clothes, got my belongings in order, and went up to one of the best 
 breakfasts I ever ate; then out on deck to watch for the green 
 headlands of old England. My friend and I found a sheltered 
 place in which to sit and drink in the exhilarating air. 
 
 It was strange to be possessed with a home-coming feeling, as 
 we waited for a land we had never seen to loom up along the 
 horizon. To one of English ancestry it was an instinctive primeval 
 sense of getting to one's own. And thereat last it lay; at first like 
 a long bank of low-lying clouds, then gradually took shape and 
 color as we drew nearer. The sea was dotted with fishing smacks 
 and schooners, their white sails like huge gull wings, filling before 
 the wind. We skirted the coast for miles, passing the Isle of 
 Wight which brought to mind Osborne House and the passing of 
 Queen Victoria. Then, through the shipping of Southampton, 
 reached our dock and the inevitable custom house. Here an 
 
inspector asked if I had any perfumery. 1 said "No." "Open 
 your hand hag, please." I did it. A look into my face, then 
 "that is all" and he marked up the whole lot. What he saw in 
 my face that passed my baggage 1 can't imagine, unless it was pure 
 unsophistication. 
 
 UP TO LONDON. 
 
 Before leaving the custom house we exchanged our French 
 money far its English equivalent — with the comforting thought 
 that the next change would be to dollars and cents. Every foot of 
 the way to London is of interest. Ike country is level and well 
 cultivated. Men were busy in the fields but not with the primitive 
 implements of Italy. Horses and wagons take the places of oxen, 
 donkey and carts. There were the red tiled cottages that seemed to 
 hug the earth, the lanes bordered with hedge rows, the morj pic- 
 tentious homes in more conspicuous situations, the picturesque rail- 
 road stations, all as we had read of and expected to sec. 
 
 As we entered the city on an elevated road the travelled lady 
 of our coterie called out, "Look out for the chimney pots of 
 London !" And there they were, two on every chimney— and there 
 was a forest of chimneys — on every red roof as far as the eye could 
 reach in every direction. 
 
 Coming out into the great Waterloo Station we found the 
 carriages and the local conductors waiting. We were booked here 
 for the Westminster and when we were being put into Palace Hotel 
 conveyances we stepped back'. There had been one change in the 
 program and that was sufficient. "Wait until you sec the place," 
 the guide suggested, and we consented. The long drive through 
 the city made me long for a thousand evyes instead of a thousand 
 tongues, and the one tongue I had felt that it would try to do its 
 duty by the eyes if I only had them. 
 
 Our driver was a most satisfactory guide and everything of 
 note in sight was pointed out. There was St. Paul, a grand smoke- 
 stained building dominating the city; then the river with its traflic, 
 the Waterloo bridge, Cleopatra's needle, the Strand, and the ever- 
 flowing tide of humanity in the busy streets. We drove out to the 
 West End, passed Uytlc Park to the entrance to the grounds of 
 Kensington Palace, where we dismounted at the hotel adjoining. 
 Here we found every comfoit possible in hotel life, and the sound 
 of our mother tongue all about us was like hearing from home. 
 
LONDON. 
 
 The streets of this city arc unlike those we had seen before, 
 and yet it is difficult to point out the difference. The absence of 
 car lint p, except in some out-lying rcctions, gives an unbroken sur- 
 face to its thoroughfares. Motor vehicles of all descriptions and 
 for all purposes have almost entirely superseded the old methods of 
 transportation. The horses arc fine, almost equal to those of Bel- 
 gium, but the day ox' their supremacy is over. No where had we 
 seen such a constant stream of life as flows through its business 
 centres, and the marvel of it all is the absence of confusion or con- 
 gestion. Everything turns to the left and moves like an orderly 
 procession. 
 
 The supreme authority in London streets is the policeman. 
 Silent but alert, at the first indication of a jam he raises his hand 
 and everything in sight from the King's carriage to the humblest 
 cart, stops, and not a wheel turns until the signal is given. Oxford 
 and Regent streets, as seen from the top of a bus on a bright after- 
 noon, eclipse anything to be seen in New York or Paris. 
 
 The money question was less difficult here as we were some- 
 what familiar with pounds, shillings and pence. And still the 
 broad "a" and the peculiar inflection were often disconcerting. 
 For example, one conversation I heard ran like this: "How much 
 for this ?" " Tuppence ha' penny, Miss." "I beg pardon." "Tup- 
 pence ha' penny." Will you please spell it?" " T-w-o-p-e-n-c-e 
 h-a-1-f-p-c-n-n-y." "O thank you." Then a mental calculation — 
 "Two pence, that's four cents, half penny, one cent — five cents." 
 With lira, franc and mark we lost a fraction every time, but the 
 shilling being equivalent to our quarter, placed us on safe ground. 
 
 Because of the frequent stops, long waiting at times, and many 
 deviations from established routes, our sight-seeing was done in 
 horse drawn vehicles which accommodate about twenty-five persons. 
 They are entered from the rear, bus fashion, but arc much higher, 
 giving a fine view from the open sides. 
 
 WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 
 
 In order to understind the peculiarities of this the greatest 
 Protestant Cathedral, one must keep in mind its history. The 
 early data is enshrouded in' myth and tradition; the reputed 
 founder died in 616 a. D. and his tomb is still shown. More 
 
authentic history begins with Edward the Confessor who is con- 
 sidered the founder of the Abbey. It was consecrated in 10G5. 
 William the Conqueror, Edward's successor, was crowned here, and 
 it has been since that time the scene of the coronation of every 
 English sovereign, and of the burial of many of them. 
 
 From the time of the Confessor to the Reformation the Abbey 
 was a church and monastery, with the usual accessories of college 
 hall, Abbot's house, cloisters, refectories and kitchen. On the dis- 
 solution of the great monasteries it became a Cathedral church, but 
 was turned into an Abbey again by Queen Mary. On the acces- 
 sion of Elizabeth to the throno it became a Collegiate church per- 
 manently. Here as elsewhere in ancient public buildings with a 
 history of unbroken service, are reflected the ideals of many periods; 
 here art is seen in all stages of development, from the crude carv- 
 ings of the early days to the masterpieces of medieval and modern 
 art. We saw the altar, the scene of the crowning of kings and 
 queens, the quaint, time-scarred coronation chair with the famous 
 Scone stone beneath the seat; we sat "in the seats of the mighty" 
 who have witnessed great epoch-making events, gazed at the won- 
 derful windows that throw their many-hued lights over all, then 
 wandered among the tombs of the dead and gone who helped to 
 make the nation great. 
 
 Here Elizabeth and Mary lie in noble sepulture almost side 
 by side, in perfect peace with each other. The tombs of ancient 
 kings arc worn and black with age, the figures on many of them 
 bearing the marks of vandal hands. This section of the Abbey is 
 so crowded that passing through is sometimes difficult. In fact 
 everywhere artistic arrangement seems to have been sacrificed to 
 expediency. A visit of a few hours can give little beyond a general 
 idea of this world renowned sanctuary for the living and the dead. 
 The Poets' Corner, the tombs of Wesley and other illustrious dead 
 in whom we have special interest, would have held us indefinitely 
 if time had allowed. 
 
 ST. PAUL. 
 
 Next in interest we count this, the largest Protestant church 
 in the world. The first church on this site dates back to 610. 
 The old building was two hundred years in construction. One can 
 readily imagine the hindrances in all these years through changing 
 ecclesiastic administrations as well as these of state, the gathering 
 
of funds and the tedious processes of the times. And then the 
 Grc.it Fire of 1GGG swept it away. Christopher Wren rehuilt it 
 and his body lies in the great crypt below. On his tomb we read: 
 "If you would read my epitaph look about you." Here also lie 
 buried Lord Nelson, Wellington, Turner, Landseer, Sir Arthur 
 Sullivan and many others of world-wide fame. The floor of this 
 crypt — the largest in the world— was laid by female convicts. 
 
 The arrangement of the sculpture here does not crowd and 
 detract from the beauty of the interior as in the Abbey, where 
 many a wonderful arch and column with most delicate tracery of 
 carving is hidden by a great tomb or monument of doubtful fitness 
 in a sacred place. Here space, light and position are so admirably 
 chosen that no line of beauty is lost and every work of art is seen at 
 its best. The tomb of the Duke of Wellington by Alfred Stevens 
 is considered the finest work of its kind in England. 
 
 THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 
 
 Great is Westminster! Great is St. Paul! But greatest of 
 all in interest to all classes of people is the Museum. They record 
 the history of England; the Museum lays bare the history of the 
 world. Prehistoric ruins have given up their hidden treasures, and 
 from tablets of stone and baked clay, from ancient obelisk and 
 parchment, great archaeologists have read the progress of humanity 
 from the Babylonian account of the flood, found at Nineveh, to the 
 times within the memory of man 
 
 I should have been greatly disappointed if I had not seen the 
 Rosetta Stone. It is a slab of black basalt found in ruins near the 
 Rosetta mouth of the Nile. On it is an inscription, first in hiero- 
 glyphics—the writing of the priests, — then in the characters used 
 by the people, and the last in Greek, which was readily read, and 
 which proved to be a translation of the hieroglyphics. Thus a key 
 was found to ancient records that proved the authenticity of im- 
 portant events in Bible history. 
 
 The Elgin marbles arc of universal interest, comprising as 
 they do the bulk of the remaining decorations of the Parthenon. 
 These arc recognized as the finest specimens of existing sculpture. 
 
 In the time at our disposal we could only look for the things 
 we most desired to see; but we walked and gazed in this wonderful 
 place until tired bodies rebelled, and we left it with the hope that 
 
some time in the future an opportunity might come to us to visit 
 the great library and other sections we had been compelled to 
 pass by. 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 
 
 Leaving the Museum, which Raskin pronounced "the greatest 
 concentration of human knowledge in the world," we visited the 
 National Gallery. It contains twenty-two rooms with over 1600 
 pictures arranged in schools, and is built on a wide terrace over- 
 looking Trafalgar Square. From the grand colonnade at the 
 entrance are seen Nelson's Monument with the four Landrcer lions 
 at its base, a statue of Charles I, Charing Cross, fountains, and St. 
 Martin's church where Nell Gwyne is buried. 
 
 The modern British pictures are displayed at Tate Gallery. 
 There we saw the original painting, "The Doctor," copies of which 
 are so often seen in American schools of medicine. The Wallace 
 Collection in Manchester Square is a favorite visiting place of 
 Americans. It is one of the latest and best additions to the won- 
 derful galleries of London. Here at the entrance, we were obliged 
 to check all h:md-bags and parcels because the Suffragette was 
 abroad in the land. 
 
 The Royal Exchange, Bank of England and Mansion House 
 are all within a stone's throw. The open space between is the 
 busiest spot in London, and is honey-combed with subways for 
 nervous foot-passengers. 
 
 Old Bailey recalled the imprisonment of Pickwick; Bow 
 C'.iurch, that of Whittington and his cat. Everyone born within 
 sound of Bow Bells is a "cockney;" but the tribe will soon be ex- 
 tinct for the homes are rapidly giving place to business houses. 
 Old London bridge brought back a game of childhood — " London 
 bridge is falling down." London monument nearby commemorates 
 the Great Fire. Tower bridge built to relieve congestion carries 
 over, on an average, 30,000 foot passengers and 10,000 vehicles a 
 day. 
 
 Albert Memorial is quite near the Palace Hotel, and Albert 
 Hall, a large circular building, is in the same section. It seats 
 10,000 people and contains the largest organ in the world. 
 
THE TOWER. 
 
 We visited Smithfield, the scene of martyrdom in the days of 
 religious strife, and old St. Bartholomew nearby, the oldest church 
 in the city, and the finest specimen of Early Gothic in England. 
 The Houses of Parliament, Natural History Museum, the Zoological 
 Gardens in Regent Park, City Road Chapel — the Mecca of Metho- 
 dism—and the Horse Guards at Whitehall all claimed time and 
 were of absorbing interest. But to all English blood, however 
 remote the ancestry, nothing appeals as strongly as London Tower. 
 
 The name naturally suggests one massive erection strongly 
 fortified; but when we learn that eighteen acres are enclosed within 
 its walls, and recall the many purposes it has subseryed — that of 
 fortress, royal residence, prison and treasury — and see instead of 
 one tower, a forest of towers, we begin to have an adequate concep- 
 tion of this great landmark. 
 
 The central keep— the original White Tower — was built by 
 William the Conqueror for the control and protection of the city, 
 and was used as a palace by all the kings down to Charles LL 
 Here was planted the germ of the national life. This building 
 and its grounds are defended by a massive wall with thirteen 
 towers. The outer wall has six towers on the river side, and three 
 strong bastions on the north. The Moat, now dry, encircles the 
 whole. Within the enclosure are the homes of the officers in 
 charge, barracks, parade grounds, paved walks and squares, and 
 the Chapel where lie eight bodies, the victims of the ax— among 
 them that of Lady Jane Grey, the place of her execution is marked 
 with a tablet on the " Green." 
 
 At the entrance to the Bloody Tower near the Traitor's gate, 
 we passed the Beefeaters— the yoemen of the guard— in their quaint 
 medieval uniform. We seemed to hear the sighs and moans of past 
 ages as we passed through those vaulted gateways, and climbed the 
 steep narrow stairs to the tower rooms from which men and women 
 of our race looked their last upon life, merely became they stood 
 in somebody's way. In a large circular room in Beauchamp Tower 
 we saw the many inscriptions cut in the walls by prisoners await- 
 ing their doom. 
 
THE ARMORY AND CROWN JEWELS. 
 
 Here every weapon of offense and defense, from the stone ax 
 to the latest invention is displayed. Ali kinds of armor arc seen, 
 from the quilted garment to elaborate chain and armor plate of 
 Eastern origin. Armored horsemen make up a large part of this 
 display. 
 
 In a well-lighted circular room of Wakefield Tower we saw the 
 Crown Jewels. They are arranged in a large double case in the 
 center of the room. The king's crown is the top piece, arranged 
 below are the crowns of several queens -and the coronet of the 
 Priuce of Wales. The display includes the articles used in the 
 coronation ceremony, and all the glittering objects which form the 
 English Regalia. I here are also collars, stars, badges, all the 
 insigna of knighthood, and the Victoria Cross. In the centre is a 
 model of the Kohinoor in its original setting. The room is care- 
 fully guarded, and admission is by ticket. No parcels or hand-bags 
 pass the outer gate. 
 
 MADAME TUSSAUD. 
 
 A visit to London is not complete without an inspection of 
 this famous display of wax work. It was founded ninety years ago 
 by Madame Tussaud, a French woman who modeled the heads of 
 many of the victims of ihe French Revolution. 
 
 Here are displayed in wax the eminent and the notorious of 
 the past and present, in many cases in the actual clothes worn by 
 the persons represented. The Royal Group is worth close study. 
 There stands Henry VIII with his wives and members of his court, 
 all in the elaborate costumes of the period. Our country is repre- 
 sented by a group of our presidents, and not far away is a seated 
 presentment of Harry Thaw. 
 
 The Chamber of Horrors is a test of nerve. Among the grue- 
 some objects is a victim strapped to the guillotine with the ax 
 suspended for the blow; counterfeiters at work, an opium den with 
 he devotees in all stages of stupefaction, the felon in his cell, — all 
 so realistic that one almost shivers recalling the sight. We turned 
 for relief to the more pleasing illustrations of historical events and 
 social life. 
 
 While our party was gathering at the entrance for the return* 
 to the hotel, a doorkeeper was asked about the route we should 
 take. He gave the information and explained many objects about 
 
us. He said " Almost every day a new specimen is placed. Now 
 just to-day a figure representing a city guard was brought in but is 
 not yet in position. I'll show it to you.'' And we followed to a 
 handsome figure in new uniform standing attention. We were 
 profuse in praise of the perfect imitation of life. A little California 
 lady stepped closer to inspect the face and pronounced it "the most 
 natural coloring in the whole exhibition." Just then the o^igy 
 gave a start -the compliment was too much for him -and we all 
 jumped (and screamed I'm afraid) as though a bomb had exploded 
 in our midst. The guard and his fellow-conspirator laughed as 
 heartily as if it had been the first time they had played that trick. 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 The last night in London was a time of sorrowful good-byes. 
 Some of our company were to remain longer, others were to go to 
 Scotland. The remainder took an early train next morning to 
 catch the Bohemian sailing from Liverpool about noon. The 
 country north differs little from that to the south of London, though 
 the towns of the manufacturing sections arc larger, more bustling 
 
 and dingy. 
 
 At Liverpool our train carried us along the docks through a 
 world of shipping to the very gangplank of our ship. Havingfound 
 our staterooms we returned to the deck to sec the city which lies 
 along the river like a beautiful panorama. Passing down the Irish 
 Sea °we had a convoy of myriads of sea gulls. The air was (illed 
 with their fluttering white wings. With the Irish coast on one 
 side and that of Wales on the other, they never left us until having 
 passed the Fastnet Lighthouse, Ireland's "farthest south," we 
 came out into the open Atlantic. 
 
 Our ship was smaller than the Canopic, but as well fitted, and 
 wonderfully steady. Every courtesy was shown us, and we were 
 made as comfortable as the somewhat crowded condition allowed. 
 Many of us were old friends by this time, and being fewer in num- 
 ber a home-like feeling prevailed. The never relaxing vigilance of 
 officers and crew imparted such a sense of security that neither wind 
 nor fog dampened the spirits of the party When driven inside by 
 the weather the time passed pleasantly in the library with music, 
 readings, conversation and fancy work. Every morning a "Travel 
 Talk" was held which was a wonderful means of refreshing the 
 memory. 
 
Every evening had its general assembly. The program wcs 
 always interesting and sufficiently varied to suit everybody, from 
 the "grave and reverend seigniors" to (he jolly college boys and 
 girls. The last evening out a bazaar was held, in which all the 
 pretty and curious things picked up on the tour were displayed. 
 It was certainly a festive time, and lacked only the Christmas 
 greens to be an old time holiday fair — minus the sales, of course. 
 
 Then came preparations for going ashore,. — packing up, filling 
 out declaration papers for the custom house, and searching railroad 
 schedules for the earliest trains out from Boston. Finally while 
 anchored in the harbor we filed before an official for identification, 
 verifying the papers we had filled before the outward voyage. 
 Uncle Sam keeps a watchful eye on his children when they go 
 from homo. 
 
 As we passed down the gang directly into the custom house 
 we were greeted with waving hats and handkerchiefs, and to many, 
 the smiles of waiting friends. 
 
 And thus ended a pilgrimage, unique in history because of its 
 purpose in bringing together the ends of the earth in a great 
 religious gathering; because of the unfailing wisdom of its planning 
 and execution, wherein every possible emergency was provided for 
 beforehand, and because of the abundant opportunities given to sec 
 the countries through which we passed. 
 
 So far as I have been able to ascertain, of all the delegations 
 that left this country, not one person had died, not one was left 
 behind because of disability, nobody had suffered from accident, and 
 cases of sickness were very rare; I know of but one serious case and 
 he came home with us full of life and energy. 
 
 While none of us love our country less because of what we saw 
 abroad, the effect of such a tour is the broadening of views of life 
 and humanity, and a fuller realization of the fact that the Creator 
 "made of one blood all the nations of men." 
 
H 73 9.1 
 
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