.^' =v f ,, «, §1 -/ •J" * V '^^^ ?• -.0 ,v :^ • ' fe' i* ~ ■• ■a.' O" W!" o ^a * .4- '■s^^ J-^.f? ' :^' : >y^^ „ ' :;f?^; ::=rt'f#' *W/^ r-^rf-. .3^"- \^W^^ ''^^^ ■«■ ■y«? °^v .%(\^.?. ^0 ^,-'. ^^■' i£M W} .4> PRICE ISCEMTi THIS MAP W^IIiIi ASSIST THE STRANGER TO FIND HIS WAY Bedin at f:ori»er of Essex and Washington Streets Tlu rod lines indicate a sihort \v;ilk hejiiniiing and ending: at the centre ot the city, which includes the most interestiufr and iiiii)ortant olyects, and which can be traversed in one or two hours, according to time spent at tlie two musenms. 22. Sanii' as-il. 23. At .«;) Ks.-( 24. At ;;»; Noiti »« ■ Important. — See red figures mi map, thou nee • onespondllif; lljtures lielow. Also .see "correspondin).'- iiKureK in the i)ook, under tlhiHtr.'ittoDH. 1. .\1 V.il KsHex St., lio^c.r (Jonunt cliaiter in Kssex liiftitiite. 2. .\l ;« Washinirtor^St., Indian deed in City Hall. 3. .M 71 ICssex .St., Narlionne house, verv (dil. 4. At l:!-2 Ksscx St., (rear) Ward honse." 5. ()I<1 I'.akery or Hathaway liou.-^e, Turner St. 6. Atal Chai'terSt., May Ihiwer stone, in cemetery. 7. At .'il (;hartei- St.. oldest known stom^ in city. 8. At ."il Charter St., spetiimcn of interestini;- orna menl.'il stone. 9. At •22."> 1-2 Essex St., site of first cliiireh. 10. .\t eof. of Kssex .-md Washington Sts. (view of Kssex St.) 11. IJoper Conant Monument. 12. At 132 Essex St., the Essex Institute, line free museum. 13. At 87(1 Essex St., oil itjiintini; in lihrarv. 14. At. 51(1 Essex St., Kov'er Wiiliams or Wit<'h liouu^l^^.J^6U^6u^ul>^^^ IV hat is there to see liere? is the first question of the stranger Salem's principal points of distinction are : First — It is the oldest city in Massachusetts — settled only six years after the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth (1626).* Second — The terrible witchcraft craze had its storm centre here — (1692) . Third — It became a great commericial port during the eigh- teenth century (i 700-181 2). Fourth — It took an exceptionally active part in the war of the Revolution (i 775-1 782), and the war of 181 2. Fifth — Nathaniel Hawthorne was born and wrote the Scarlet Letter here (1804-1864). 3ixth — There are more tine examples of Colonial Architecture here than are to be found in any other American City. *Not the city longest incorporaied, but the city lougest settled. FOURTH EDITION tOPYRIGHT, 1915. ALBERT W. DENNIS IBLISHED BY THE SALEM PRESS CO SALEM. MASSACHUSETTS. THE GREAT ANTIQUITY « OF SALEM. S ''^^^^^^^'^^■UlJkJ.:^- >iiJii::td^'^li,j:X^»:>i^i^ Ul^ALliOl ALKM IS \XT\ uld. It IS the oldest city in New England, being settled within six years after the arrival of the "Mayriower" ;at Plymouth. At that time (1826) the whole Massachusetts coast was an undis- turbed wilderness, save the little settle- ments on Cape Cod and Cape Ann. The Indians had a village here be- fore the white men came, living in wigwams, and having cleared a considerable piece of ground, which they cutivated to corn. The Indians were a quiet and peaceable tribe, however, and gave welcome to Roger Conant and his little band when they gave up struggling for a living on the bleak shores of Cape Ann, and came to their locality, which was described by Conant as a fruitful neck of land, pro- jecting into the sea, with "grass thick and long, and very high, growing wildly," with strawberries everywhere, wild roses, brilliant and fragrant wild flowers, and scented herbs, raspberries, plums, grapes and other tempting wild friuts in profusion. . liven with all these advantages of nature, they lAt Khbcx IiiMUiit Cliaiitir. ;:raiiteil In tli( had a hard time to get along, and were many time> minded to remove to a new place, which they would have done, had it not been for the fidelity and perseverance of their leader. In a few years the arrival of Endicott in the ship ".Abigail" brought large accessions to their numbers and their supplies, and put the community on substantial and permanent footing. The ketch- ing and curing of tish for shipment to Europe be- came a profitable industry, and in the course of a few years a flood tide of immigration set in toward the new America that brought Salem a flourishing and prosperous growth in population. Ship-build- ing was engaged in, and sea commerce opened up with dis- tant ports. Young Salem grew wealthy, influential and aristo- cratic. During the next two centuries she was the second place of importance in New England, and one of the principal ports in the thirteen colonies. Landmarks in the of houses con- nected with that first («! WashiiiKton St., in Citv Hall). The orisrinal deed from the IniliniiB to the wav early settlers, ciinveyinj; title to the luiul ,,?r. ..,„.... * VKUY OLD HOUSES IN .SAJ.E.M. (71 Essex ^t.) The Narbonne house, (3^ St. reter St). Ward houBe tmilt hefore 16^0. huilt 1S(;4. AUG 27 19\F (Turner St.) The Hathaway house, formeilv known as the GUI Bakery. (Charter St. Cemetery. ) A bare date often expresses little to the mind. But George Washington cut down his father's famous cherry tree, these stones one can get fcn idea of the age of the oldest of these stones by recalling that when had already been standing there nearly as long as he has now been dead. >- ■^-■^- j / - '■. '^ ^^— : M ^^ This is the oldest stone in the city that is now legible. "Dorothy, wife of Philip Cromwell. Ifi7.3." The only known grave stone of a pas- senger in "the Mayflower. Capt. More, who landed at Plymouth in llKU. One of the many ijueerly carved and ornamented stones to be seen in the cem- etery. century of Salem's history are naturally not many for building and rebuilding, to take care of the increased growth in population for two hun- dred years, has caused them to be displaced by less aged houses, but there are still standing a few old dwellings that were erected before the year 1700. retaining their quaint architecture and original timbers. In the old burying ground on Charter Street one can walk about among the (Eeeex Street). View of the his- toric main street which was orig- iially an Indian path througli the forest. First build- ing on the right the site of the first church. See tablet. heaastones that mark the graves of the pioneers of that early day, and in the fine museum of antiqui- ties at the Essex Institute, one can see specimens of the wigs they wore, the queer bonnets for the ladies, the tinder box, andirons, roasting jack or chafing dish with which they prepared their meals, the old pewter ware and blue china they ate from, the foot stove they took to church to keep their feet warm, flax wheels and quilting frames used by Roger Conant Monument at Washington Square West Erected in 1913 by the Old Planters Society. the housewives, hour-glasses, sun-dials, flintlock muskets, horse pistols, and many other interesting things. John Endicott and ship Abigail, which brought him and his colony over. Tradition says that the main thoroughfare, Essex street, was originally an Indian path through the forest. Near the corner of Essex and Washing- ton Streets is the spot where Roger Co- nant erected the first house built in Salem, and near here also was the first meeting house. Historic old street! Along its nar- row and tortuous way in 1692, passed the hangman's proces- sions, on the way to Gallows Hill with the 12 condemned "witches;" Essex Institute. j^^^.^^ ^^^^ passed the cart, with a Quaker woman tied behind, bared to the waist, receiving at every step a stroke from the sheriff's whip that brought the blood; up Wash- ington Street a few paces was located the whipping post, where all public offenders were beaten with the lash. Here have Generals Washington, Gage, Lafayette, and many other dignitaries been paraded as the guests of the city. ■ ^ w^>^^<^ 1 .1] ■ , » I.. J ■. ^ ■ ' ' ■ » ' .■' ' .•.» ' .>' ».t. '. ' »."•'. f • ' . ' '•• ' .-''••- ' •■■.•• -t ;.-.^V;.-','.r.;i»/>^ ;• ^ THE WITCHCRAFT CRAZE IN SALEM. -.•■^■•^:•.•.V^:.•■^•■^•.v;v:>■-^^:^.v^;^.• . 13 \VitL-li.T«ft : THAT incident whicli has brouglit Salem tlie must notoriety before the world, is the hanging of the witches here in 1692. I'ack two centuries ago the reality of witchcraft was generally believed in Europe and this country (it is even today in rural places) and old cnirt records everywhere show an oc- casional ar- rest and conviction of some farm- er, servant or otiu r person i r bewitcliing neighbor - cow or hurt- ing his per son. But in Salem, in 1602, there occurred a regular epidemic of witch manifestations and accusations. The l)eginning of the craze is traced to a party of girls, in a neighborhood out in Danvers (two. only nine and eleven years old,) who used to gather together for a good time at play. There was an old brown-skinned servant woman in one of the families in the neighborhood, named Titulja who hailed from India who was skilled in some of the arts of conjuring for which the Hindoos are noted. With suggestions or teachings from this old woman the children practiced jiranks of palm- istry, necromancy and fortune-telling on each other, until they atained ■"''' "'"'^• consfleral)Ie skill. l-"inally they began to claim that they could not control themselves, acted strangely, crept under chairs and benches, made wild gestures and uttered strange exclamations. Their parents became alarmed and called in the 15 t- tirt Iloiiset. Copy of the rraiit of Bridfiet Bishiip, IX St. I Tlic uitcli li ■iiUKt of th.triiilltiiii prelim iiiarv triul^ village doctor, who pronounced them bewitched. They would be seized with spasms and apparently be afflicted with painful torture, and upon being questioned as to who it was that bewitched them. accused the old Indian servant and two other women. -Amidst intense public excitement, the three wom- en were arrested, tried and committed to prison, but the children kept on l)eing afflicted and others were accused. Tlie craze lu'ati spread like wildlire, and ""eoftiK tlie mischief spread hot-foot to surrounding towns. Topstield, Amesbury, Marblehead, Ipswich, Andovcr and other places. lic-,i.;an to suspect perscms in their neighborhood, and sent them to Salem for imprisonment and trial. Whether or not there were some persons who were really guilty of exerting an influence over the afflicted ones, something like what would be called hypnotic sug- gestion today, it is clear that most of the poor suspects were en- tirely innocent, and became \-ictims lie- cause of some little oddity of character in some cases, and in others upon the mer- est chance of circum- stance ; and when they 17 ^ came to trial, the \'\w. whioli the witehe^ were cliargei le- tiT\ 1. (irave ^t(ln .luW^'eHathciriie, tn ol the iii(l-e<* at th witeh irialh. people, and attended with most dramatic and ex- citing scenes. The children were brought into court as witnesses against the accused, and while testifying would be stricken with spasms and scream with pain at every motion the prisoner made. If she wrung her hands, they would say that they were pinched, and if she bit her lip they would cry that they were bitten. Observing that there was no possible chance for those who proclaimed their innocence, and Court scene at one of the witcli trials. (A painting at Essex Institute.) that old Tituba and one Deliverance Hobbs, were granted lenience because they confessed and ex- pressed sorrow for tormenting the children, other victims took the cue, and, in despair, confessed also, which became a strong factor in misguid- ing the judges. They had the suffering girls be- fore them, and an infuriated populace around them, inspired with a religious determination to stamp out the damnable business which they believed to be the work of the devil himself. The specta- tors present were beside themselves with impa- tience for vengeance and execution. It is related Two hundred years has not yet put us far enougli away from the event to get a perspective that sees and explains the causes of the remarkable manifestation recorded, with any unanimity of opinion. First, it is unquestionable that there are many persons today (some of them intelligent enough, to read and write) who believe in witchcraft now as well as then. There are those who do not believe in witches, and eliminate the theory that any one was bewitched, but are of the opinion that the devil caused all the hal- lucination, and was back of all the mischief. There are some who believe Minister Parris to have been the arch-demon of the whole affair ; say he beat his servant Tituba, till he wrung a false confession from her, and then took upon himself the otRce of public prosecutor, question- ing witnesses in such a way as to elicit answers that would enable him to vent his fanatical hatred and malice towards persons who had incurred liis displeasure Then there are some who view the whole craze as a silly and inexcusable delusion, and hang their heads in penitent shame for thecreduldity and folly of their ancestors. Others believe that hypnotism played a large part in the proceedings, and that right and superstition did the rest. There are others who believe that none of the theories satisfactorily explain the phenomena, and that though some of the things could be accounted for by hypnotic influence, on the whole it is much of a mystery that must be open to man's understanding at some time in the future. that one furious woman took off her shoe and flung it at the prisoner in court to express her contempt. In the mad delirium, every person accused was ad- judged guilty in advance, and everything was evidence. In one case, where a good woman had led such an unimpeachable life, and there was so little evidence against her, that the court pro- nounced a verdict of "not guilty," such an uproar of disapproval was produced that the verdict was with- drawn, a new return made, "guilty," and the woman was hung. Much uncanny and superstitious testimony was given regarding apparitions in the shape of large hairy things, red cats, yellow birds and agents of the "devil," who rode through space mounted on sticks. Fourteen women and five men were hanged, and hundreds were arrested and thrown into prison before the fury of the populace spent itself, and the afflicted girls became discredited by crying out against some persons so secure in the love and esteem of the community that no one would longer believe their accusations. "1 (111 Broad St. Ceme- tery.) Gravestone of Sheriff Corwin, who arrested and executed the witclies. Gallows Hill, upon which the witches were liaiiged. The modern science of psychology is making many discoveries that have an mportant bearing upon the hallucinations attending the outbreak of the witch craze in Salem. They find that it is possible to impress upon a person of the right nervous temperament the belief that he sees a cat or dog, or any other object, by what is called hypnotic suggestion ; and that it is possible to cause a sub- ject to cry out with pain and imagine himself pinched or bitten, by merely making the mental suggestion to him. It was believed in the days of witchcraft that, never mind where a witch was he could torment a person a great distance ott' by making a rag doll or puppet and sticking pins into it or pricking it, in lieu of the person, and the person would feel the pain, which finds a surprising analogy in the discovery that it is possible with a sensitive hypnotic subject, to make him feel the sensation of acute pain in his leg or arm by pinching the leg or arm of a doll that is not within his sight or hearing. There is, further, a symptom of the mind known to physicians who are spe -ial- ists in nervous diseases, called auto-suggestion, in which a person inifgines himself tormented by others, and so strong is the hallucmation that appear- ances of a welt or bite actually appear on the skin. These psychological phenomena open up new lines of speculation (hat can be followed to various conclusions in regard to the afflicted girlh who were the cause of all the trouble, and may bring forth a new literature that will sift facts from superstition and clear up much of the mystery that now surrounds the history of the craze. ^^N^«i«^»^Nrf'^<' I • ■ II _■ .'.'.-•.' • tV •'••''•'!'.'■'.'•'•'•'..'.•.-'''•'••'• ''i '-.'••' -'■ SALEM'S PREDOMINANCE / IN THE REVOLUTION. T E Provincial Assembly was sitting here when it selected Samuel Adams, John Adams, Thomas Gushing, Robert Treat -==-] Paine and James Bowdoin, the first dele- (i^•.;.■:■-^ pates to be appointed to the Continental ' 'iiiiii Congress, which later adopted the Dec- laration of Independence. For this action the Assembly was dissolved by a proclamation from the king's governor. An official came with the document to the as- sembly, but was refused entrance, so read it from the stairs to the multitude outside. This was the last Provincial Assembly to be held in Massachusetts. Two months later the members reas-'21 .lolin Hancock, sembled at Salem, elected John Hancock tem- porary chairman and resolved themselves into a Provincial Congress the first one among the American prov- inces. The spirit of resistance to British usurpation ,..,,, . . , . c , that pervaded the Two of the dclfg»U-8 appointed at Salem , . '^ r i to the Continental Con(?re»«. COlonieS fOr Several years prior to the Revolution, was very strong in Salem. The town records show repeated reso- lutions of pro- test against the - duties imposed by the king's government. When the op- , pressive Stamp Act was being enforced, and the colonists were evading and re- sisting the meas- ure, a man who "told" on a . vessel in Salem BriilK'e "Vir N'ortli River Harbor that was trying to elude payment of du- ties was tarred and feathered on the Common, ridden in a cart through the streets with the word "Informer" in large letters on his back, and driven out of town. Later, when the colonists had collected powder and firearms at various points. r The Athenaeum library and one of the hooks nf the large collection that was captured from an Enjilish vessel, in the English channel, during the war of the Kehellion. bv a Salem privatwr. The autograph of I>r. Kirwan the distinguishetl scientist who owned the l)ouk8, appears on the fly leaf to some of the volumes. clearly seeing that an armed conflict was likely to ensue. General Gage sent a large detachment of soldiers to Salem by way of iNLirblehead to search for a store of "^ cannon known to be secreted here. Thirty or forty militiamen and a concourse of citizens gath- ered in force on the banks of the little river on the north side if the town, lifted the draw- bridge and defied Bridge. British Soldiers at North Bridg the soldier's further progress. There was a scuffle between the soldiers and some citizens who were scuttling their boats to render tliem useless to the British, words were bandied back and forth across the breach, and some of the more daring spirits, with the Boston massacre a fresh recollection to all, defied the British to fire. Finally the com- mander compromised with the citizens, aban- doned the search, returned to Marblehead, and re- embarked his soldiers on the ship they came in. This was the first organized and armed resistance John Derby, who com- manded the schooner that took first news of war to England, and put his personal serv- ices down on the bill of expense at 0. to British troops in the Massachusetts colony, and happened three months before a similar ex- pedition marched to Concord, and on the way met the minutemen on Lexington Green. With war openly declared, came Salem's real op- portunity to be of assistance in the movement for American independence. She was a maritime port, with a fine harbor, her rich merchants were owners of large fleets of vessels, and her citizens hardy seafaring men, inured to danger and hardship. From this port sped the fleet little vessel, "The Quero." which carried the first news to astonished England that nearly three hundred of her soldiers had been killed in an encounter with the farmers in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, outsailing the British vessel that had started some days before, as the colonial leaders were anxious to get their side of the story to their English friends first, for its political influence. As fast as cannon could be procured, letters of marque and reprisal were taken out, until nearly every vessel of size owned in Salem was on the high seas privateering against English commerce. The ports of Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Charleston and Savannah were closed by the Brit- ish, and Salem and the other small seaports near her became the principal source of the country's in- tercourse with Europe for supplies of arms and military stores. With intrepid daring, her priva- teers cruised wherever British commerce could be found, even in the English Channel and Irish Sea, capturing trading vessels and transports, and send- ing them home as prizes. This assistance to the American cause, when the country was in its infancy and fighting the strong- est sea-power in existence, can hardly be estimated. England's commerce was almost annihilated, ma- rine insurance rates were put up to figures never heard of before, merchants and ship-owners were so terrorized and annoyed by the plucky little American craft that swarmed her shores that they dared not ship goods in their own bottoms at all. How much influence this condition of affairs ex- erted on the English mind (so slow to give in) when they consented to talk peace at Paris, has never been taken much into consideration by his- torians, but it must necessarily have been tremen- dous, and how large a share Salem craft had in the work may be shown by the fact that over one hun- dred and fifty privateers were sent out from this port, and they captured 455 English prizes, a 27 number which becomes vitally significant when compared with the estimate that only about 700 prizes were captured during the war by the entire fleet of American privateers. One of the prizes captured in the war forms a part of the Athenaeum library today, it being a large collection of scientific volumes captured in the Eng- lish Channel. A Salem vessel took the first news of the war to Europe, and a Salem vessel brought the first news of peace, through the signing of the treaty at Paris, in 1783. The rules governing the sale of privateer prizes, that the capturing crew and the owner should di- vide the proceeds, gave rich returns to the already wealthy merchants, and in the War of 1812, as well as" in the War of the Revolution, added largely to the foundations of many of the hereditary for- tunes that support the first families of Salem today. SALEM'S LEADERSHIP IN SEA COMMERCE. :S: il78 Derby St.) Old Derby wharf. Sketch from Romance and Rcalit}- of I^ew England Coast. *q UT Salem's crown of glory was her ship- Bl ping and her commerce. A time there I was. when in the far East, in China and ^ Japan, in the Indies, in Sumatra and Java, and other far-away ports beyond the Cape of Good Hope, the name of Salem was known. New England and America were but ab- stract terms, but Salem was a known port. The ships she built and the ships she manned were pen- etrating every port of the world, carry- ing to many of them for the first time, the flag of a new and unknown country. As early as 1629, fishing had become an established in- dustry, and 20 years later Sa- lem was sending her exports to the West Indies and even across the ocean to Spain, France and Holland. Side by side with and resulting from it, came ship-building. Salem's commerce had be- come progressive; she needed ships, and Salem (161 EBse.\ St.) Tlie nuit-eiiin, built by tlie old sea-cap- tains to liolfl relics 20 ■ ■ fi'S^k A broujjlit home from over the seas. ship-b'i upplied the demand. Ship yards crowded upon each other, and fleet after fleet of Salem-built as well as Salem-sent vessels of all kinds began to whiten the blue of the ocean. Ship-masters and merchants began to grow rich. Large houses, large even for the present day, began to be built. Spacious grounds surrounded them. Characteristic of some of them, were cu- polas on the roof, from which the enterprising merchant with his spy-glass could recognize the white sails of his schooner or brig, far out in the harbor. What they brought he would not know, for on the captain alone depended the nature of the cargo and the success of the voyage. His was an absolute command, and rare and princely fortunes were the profits on some of the cargoes he brought. One cargo cleared for its owner $100,000; another was disponed of at a profit of 800^. The first load of pepper berries ever brought into the country was brought by a Salem ship, and for a while trade in this commodity was ex- clusively Salem's. ,()ne of tlic tiadii With her push and enterprise, no wonder, then, that the business flourished and the merchants grew rich. Elias Hasket Derby, who died in 1799, left a fortune of over one miflion dollars, sup- posed to have been the largest private fortune left in this country in the i8th century. Of the homes of the ship-masters and merchants, many remain today, pointing proudly to that pros- perous past. Yet many of them were too costly or too large to be maintained by descendants of lesser fortunes and have been transferred to or- ganizations or city institutions. One fine old man- sion that stood in Derby Square, the magnificent home which Elias Hasket Derby built for him- ^? 0^5 12 ■ S ?" -■ i '^ " i o • = 3 - I o 0-3 ■^^ I i ^ > £ = 2 o > C C a; 1. — M ^S 2 c c — w J y '* a> s - > S. :" -3 0/ ' # 1/ «„ 3 :S Oi ^: 3-c - E-3 «.^J:^ ? s^ ^ 3 * 3 c o' "" ° i c /-3 ,;-a i--3- ~ c Sol ^-a !t o £^S .2 5 = '^ " 4J •/: c El S z: c = = •" a- - >> S 0,-3 ■S-c i* o'a ♦J O OJ '^ 5> >■ * .2 r "^ 3 S 1* — C 3 =5 cS O -^ aj S " 3 i S :« =• S 3 it K ■£s| ^E ^^ ^ t- o 0) j: ^ O -C "^ '-' ■r -^ b£ o - ^"2 c ^ - s b '"^^ cap 5 ■" x ■^ — S " "^ ii Oj »j e ■" O 3 ■- -^^ b£--J - o_ ^ 3 C [B C 5 i. 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Q> aj I S 3^ >. ; C j3 - IB 3> ^ rt - ,. ^ r- ^ -, ^ O >. „ t- C C "w ~3 — "c a :5cS=--|ji-ra;'|3 *^ .TJ O -T* TI -C — '. hf f . — a< c =J •5W S « o-^ '■^B'-^K-^r 5 " o >. 3; g M 1, a a) j: c "? -C "3 a> -° cS 5 o *= •" '- c „ u*^ s: .. ir q -ai .5 - oj o a* ■.-> j<: " ** c - 'C <« .9— Ot„ a; Ot it =■, ci '-^ o tj ^ qj to a) .Sg-oaj J^S °?; 0- Stx_g.2«g o3:=-> 33 M c ""s'^i.SaCn, a-x tEOT<«T-, ^ is^2 .-_ c r" * V, M-c o cs — - S^^s-ii c = 0, *': ^■ 5 s -•£ _^£cc:J5 s a o c ^ 3'*j---3 mC— -WRorS "^■a'oSa K'j! ■■"_ ci E _ £ ba; 3^ ■= 3 3 « c „ ■S-ii : § o o^ « =«5^ a-c 2 ? j: o MX >>■- — c« -^ -^ %-?S£S2^c_SaSS°^'S a,a;-3j:-3 =S«^T:_a?''^ogoig'cCo.r, -c-^osSSl^S-3;c,"c^3:22iSS|'g ■"•ji S"'2«i2.M«.'J!ajJ'-::-S.ti«4'?J^!- ^■^•"o<-3jo*:xj=xc£j;^j::-caj3ai = V.^^SH-^-SS^^a-Hoj^^^'gH^-CHE O r- M aj c 73a-Ca> c^xc^-cO- "3" j: JC w >.-3 a c 'S 522: ■5 a,E" Sg 5S -of *^ S +j *" self, was too expensive to be maintained with its spacious grounds in the heart of a growing city and was actually torn down, and the site it Ship America, very fast and famous iu her day occupied given over to a town market house which stands in the square today. The architecture of these homes is interesting and suggestive. Built in a generous, ample style; broad of foundation and high as to walls; digni- fied; simple, yet commandmg, they are truly in- dicative of the characters of those early ship- masters, their height and breadth faithfully repre- senting the high broad-mindedness of these men, about which, like their houses, there was nothing superfluous or small, but all on a scale commen- surate with what they attempted and what they achieved. A venture to sea in those days was a hazard- ous undertaking. Ships were small, and there were neither maps nor charts to guide them. On every side, danger lurked. On the ocean from wind and current and the great number of pirate ships which infested every sea and made the out- come of ever}' trip a matter of chance and uncer- tainty. But the danger was not on sea alone. In strange ports the}' ventured, ports never before visited by English speaking people. What their welcom^e might be they could not tell. They A group of four of Salem's famous old ship merchants. might escape a pirate ship, only to be cruelly slaughtered by wildest savages. So widespread were Salem's shipping interests, and over so vast a territory were her ships scattered that when the Revolution was imminent, View of old Derby Street, that runs along the water front. there were over eight hundred Salem seamen scattered over the waters of the globe, and liable to capture by British men-of-war. The days of Salem's shipping are past, but if one would seek the scenes of that busy activity, a walk down Derby Street will be of interest, for while dingy shops and tenement houses crowd upon each other, there are still evidences of the old days in the stately man- sions near the Custom House, and in the old wharves which still run out into the harbor. Derby wharf, the largest, is the most interesting and pic- turesque. The few buildings still standing on it, once so necessary when its sides were lined with home-returned craft, are fast falling to ruin, and it is today a gray, melancholy, ghostly relic of the past. Of the wonderful experiences encountered, of the discoveries made, of the triumphs won, and of the treasures brought home from distant lands, volumes might be written. Almost every home in Salem has some curiously wrought piece of furniture, some gem of inlaid work, some bit of priceless embroidery or other treasure brought back from over the seas, while the East India Marine Society, founded for the very purpose of preserving these treasures, has a most remarkable collection from every country of the world, in- cluding gorgeous feathered apparel, earthenware and basketry from Bolivia and the Amazon; bows and arrows, tusk necklaces, clubs, and boomer- angs from savages of the Fiji Islands and Aus- tralia; queer musical instruments, coins, vases and dolls from Siam; exquisitely carved ivory and hideous great images from China; and countless other trinkets and objects of curiosity. Here, too, are portraits of the old shipmasters and merchants whose sagacity and courage were the foundations of Salem's commercial prosperity; models and pictures of those famous vessels which braved unknown waters and triumphed over all obstacles, thus making for Salem a name glorious because of the seas she conquered, the ports she opened to the world, and the marvel- ous commercial era she instituted not alone to her own glory but to the glory of her descendants and the new world which she represented. The coming of the railroads was an event that marked the decline of Salem's shipping interests. Such centres of railroad commerce as Boston, New York and Philadelphia could give so much better and cheaper freight facilities to incoming cargoes that gradually the entrances at Salem dropped ofY until buyers could find as good or better assortments of goods in other ports. HE event of Hawthorne's birth here in the Ti»year 1804, bids fair to make Salem more •| known to the world than all else that has 5 occurred before or since, for the name of Hawthorne is growing in fame as the years go by, and it is already noted that two- thirds of the many thousands of visitors and sightseers that flock to the old city every sea- son are more interested in places and things asso- ciated witli him than in anything else here. (27 I'nion Street.) Though intere.^tinjr to all as his birth. l)la(-c, the liouse is not much associated with Hawthorne's life, because the faniilj' lived here only a few years after he was born. The house is now owned by a sturdy Irish woman and her husband, who keep the shutters drawn tight, and i)ermit no one to enter, having refused, it is said, proffered fees as liigli as $5.00. Hawthorne was a sailor's son, and he came from an ancestry of sailors, but his father died when he was very young, and he was taken in charge by a landsman, his Uncle Manning, sent to college for an education, and supported for ten years there- after, while he made discouraging attempts at authorship, and deliberated on a profession. When he was a boy, his family (mother and two sisters) frequently spent a season at a country house in Maine, where he hunted and fished and skated in winter, so his boyhood was not much different from that of many other boys. But after he came home from college he drifted into a life of solitary seclusion, that At Essex in- would be hard to paral- stitntf.) Desk lel. His mother and sis- ;'"-d I'.v iia«-- thorne at the ters were very reclusive custom House in their habits, each liv- ""J "P'"' , . , w h 1 c h li I- mg alone in her own probably jot- room; there was no tea down som.' f _ I 1 r •■ of the first family meal, no family „„tc3 tor tiu- circle; they rarely or seariet Letter. 32 never went visiting, and visitors seldom came to them. Hawthorne fell into the same way of life, stayed in his chamber most of the day, and fre- quently had his meals ■ " :^' 'ms locked door. When he went out, it was usl.j. -"r dark or early in the morning, for a solitary ""> the seashore. Having lived away from Sa.- much, he had few acquaintances among othei . ys, and it can be sure that what few people w-ere aware of his existence did not look with favor upon such an "aimless idler" as he appeared to be. 33^ (10^ and 1-2 Herbert St.) This house is most identi- fied with Hawthorne's life in Salem, for it was here that he lived during the ten years after he re- turned from college. He himself wrote, in after years, upon visiting the old room under the eaves he used to occupy: "Here I am, in my old chamber, where I produced those stupendous works of Action which have since Impressed the universe with wonderment and awe. To this chamber, doubtless, in all succeeding ages, pilgrims will come to pay their tribute or reverence; — they will put off their shoes at the threshold for fear of (lesccrating the tattered old carpets 1 'There,' they will exclaim, "is the very bed in which he slumbered, and where he was visiter^^•^^^^■r>^l.♦A"r^>J^^^^ Tlie architecture of a land is said to l)e the highest expression of its people. Ancient Greece is chiefly famed for its architecture ; the pantheon and the Colosseum are enduring monuments to the genius of the proud Roman; and if Salem's character be judged by its architecture, we tind that it has another claim to fame even more distinguished than any other. Though Salem has waited for the American 20th century awakening in architecture for this recogni- tion, American architects and art magazines now- state that here, in this old Colonial city, there is to he found more of the best examples of old lie parallel to each other on the west side of the town, and Washington Square to the east, all within live minutes' walk from the central square. The visitor who sets out to see Salem "Colonial architecture," expecting to see wonderful ornate ill f^ii^si ,tiiiiiiiJi!:.iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiMiiji |i!iii§;i| 40 (Sii F.'iliTul St. I Thf.N'ic-hdls l^m^^e. One of tlu- fiiuht M.iriiuo.h i iii- fiik' ami outi cif olil Colonial arcliiti-ctiire in tlii' I'liiti'd Statt•^. liuildings may be somewhat disappointed. A cer- tain spaciousness, grandeur and dignity character- ize them all. and they are considered in excellent 39 (.'i'i.'i Essex St.) The Low residence. Very much admired. Showiiij; the "tambrel roof ", a style of architecture very popular in Salem, one or two centuries a^o. colonial architecture than in any other community in the United States. The best architecture in Salem is to be found on Chestnut street, Federal street, upper Essex street proportion from an architectural point of view. and on Washington Square. The first three streets lUit. let it be understood, it is in the details of de- Sonie Salem doorw.ivs. sign, the '"finishing touches" so to speak, that the Saiem houses excel — the charming doorways and ap- proaches ; the windows, the mantels, the fireplaces, the stairways, and balustrades. The refine- ment of de- tail and pro- portion which belong to the classical forms of the English Re- naissance, are found here faithfully re- produced in the interior finish to these old Salem houses, built in the period before and after the Revolutionary war. 41 HotfiDnn-Simpson Ganleii, •26 Chestnut Street. 42 A good type of old Colonial house — occupied by The "Salein Club (Wasliinjjton Square). Disappointment may be felt by visitors who are specially interested in Colonial architecture in the fact that most of Salem's fine architecture is within the doors of her old mansions, where is cannot be seen without impertinent or curious intrusion. To those we w'ill suggest that Mr. Frank Cousins, who is regarded as the foremost authority on the 43 A view of Chestnut Street, said by architectural author- ities to out-rank any other street in America, in its many examples of fine Colonial architecture. subject of American Colo- nial Architecture and who is responsible more than any one else for bringing Salem's Colonial architec- ture to the attention of the country, has a studio at his residence, 3SS Esse.x Street, Salem, (ne.xt to the Atlienaeum ) where he keeps always on exhibition and sale, a collection of his remarkable photographs of interiors of Salem Colonial houses. Visitors are welcome. W ^ vr Frank CoiiHiiifi Autlioritvon (■..loiiial Arehitectun- 44 ini4 EBBex St.) A glirapee into one of the many old faehioned Kardens which are the pride of many of Salem'e old manpione. (142 Federal St.) Mantel and fireplace in the Cook Oliver house. Miss Mary H. Northend, the authoress, living at 12 Lynde street, also has an extensive collection of Salem's interior views. |?^>^;- •■' •:•.•• ' • S • ••■ ' •■ ' ••• ' • ' ■ ••• ' .•.- ' -.• •• ■ •'; ' ' ' .V •.'•'•'• ' ■■ ' -'•• ' •'• ^ OTHER THINGS TO SEE , ^"'^ ;] HERE are many other objects of interest V I ^ in Salem if the visitor has time at his dis- ? A_i posal. ._ posal. Many distinguished men have had ■.•,■••• -"'v-i their homes here, including Governor En- KftWi.!. J (ij^-y^j.^ ^^-ho was the second Governor of the colony ; Roger Williams, who was the pioneer set- tler of the state of Rhode Island; Governor Brad- street, twice Governor of the colony; Timothy Pickering, who was Secretary of State in Washing- ton 's cabinet, Rufus Choate, the celebrated lawyer, Xathan- iel Bowditch, one of the most eminent math- ematicians of his time, Wm. H. Prescott, the historian, and author of '"Ferdinand and Isabella" and "Philip the Second ;" Jones Very, the poet whose writings so pleased Emerson that he had them published at his own expense, Alexander Graham r>ell, who con- ducted some of his early telephone experiments here. There are associations con- nected with a still larger list of eminent men, including Daniel Webster, who made here his famous argument in the White murflcJKcas^ Ralph wP.irD l-mclj.Q Jtamuel Adam^, George Washington. „o„„.. „f wi.iu- „mr,u.r. c-a.e General Lafayette, Henry ^p!|-i;;i"''tc..i by Daniel webs.er-B Timothy I'ickerinjr House. Clay, Governor Andrews, General Grant, Sir Wil- liam Pepperrell and Hugh Peters. The Institute, Academy of Science, State Xormal School and libraries, distinguish Salem as an edu- cational centre. Hours could be profitably spent at the rooms of the Essex Institute alone, or at the Academy of Science Her seaside re- sorts, "the willows" and "Baker's Is- land;" her proxim- ity to the fashion- able colonics at B e \- e r 1 \- I-" a r m s, Manchester, Pieach Bluff, Clifton, Marbehead Xeck and Swampscott. the liiii 4™ 1 ^^Hpi*^H^^M|i| 1 ^^ 49 State Normal School. ojien car rides in all directions, and the fine roads for driving and wheeling along the North Shore both ways, — all make Salem a pleasant place to visit. The visitor interested in these things can find further information regarding them in the very complete and thorough guide to the cit\% issued by the Essex Institue. THE SALEM PIKE Salem came very prominently before the world in June 1914 by an enormous conflagration which swept over and destroyed one quarter of the city. Of the hundreds of thousands who visited the city in those wild days of smouldering ruins, and mili- tary law, and saw thousands living in tents and fed by the public commissary, many will doubtless be glad to take a ride through the "burned district" and see how rapidly and ably the old city has re- covered from her trial. At this writing (one year later) over 500 houses are rebuilt or in process of rebuilding. From the Lynn and the Marblehead cars a good view can be had of the burned district. o^\-^"-' ^o "" ^-^"^ o°V, ^^ ,0' :^^%;^^ A .0' m 'oK 4 '^^ -5. -^ -, v". . \^ , • • , •*■ v. *' .f o^ . "^ t o « , y' ^^Y. o V .0' .^^ .^' ^^-9"^' .-Jy^ ^-^^ ^^ -^^ .^ 1^ .,V .^^ ^ -^^^^ ^^ (5 ^=^ '; J i':i;f---i- '> ^<>o* O V -:*. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 075 097 9