-^^6 ^76^ -^^IsT- ^^^^,,^ATED HlSTo,^^ -OF- ofoiA County CALIFORNIA. Containing- a History <>f tin' County of Sommia fiMm tlic Earliest Period of its Occupancy to the Tresent Time, to<,'ethev witli (Himpses of its Prospective Future; witli Profuse Illustrations of its Beautiful Scenery, Full-Page Portraits of some of its most Eminent Men, and Biograjdiical Mention of Many of its I'ioneers and also of Pi-onnnent Citizens of To-day. m THE LEWIS PUBLISHING COMPANY, 11;! Ada.m.n St., Ciiicm.o, Ii.linoi.^. 1 b 8 l> . ^S5^ <^ V T •} >^^ IXTUODUCTORY CHAPTER I. A CnAPTEn OP C'F.NTrniF.s. California Discovered— Origin of Name— Sir Francis Dralie— Monterey Bay Discovered by Viscaino— San Franciscan Friars Plant the Cross at San Diego— Bay of San Francisco Discovered— Monterey Founded and Mission Establislied— San Francisco Bay Explored —Presidio and Mission Established al San Francisco— Call, fornia Weak and Defenseless — Ceutury Ends and no Settlement North of Verba Buena - - . . 4-11 CHAPTER 11. The Kt'ssians at Ross. The Russian American Fur Companj- — Razanof Visits San Francisco in 1805 — Fishinir for Otter along the Coast— In 1809 Kuskof Anchored in Bodega Bay— In 1811 the Russians Established Fort Ross— What the Frenchman, Durant ('illy, said of Ross in 1838 — Ross a Busy Bee-Hive of Industry - - - - 12-19 CHAPTEi; TTI. The SpANIAKtlR NonTTT OF THE Bay. After Forty Vears the Spaniards Secure Lodgment North of San Francisco — A Branch Mission Established at San Rafael in 181S— Exploring Expedition under Captain Argiiello in 1821 — In 1823 Padre Altimira Visited Petalnma and Sonoma Valleys and Chose Sonoma as a Mission Site — Missicra Dedicated as San Francisco Solano, April 4, 1824 20-28 rUAlTER IV. The RrssTASs and Ross to a CoNoi.rsiON. The Russians Realize Ihey have too Narrow a Fiehl — Will Buy more Territory or Sell their Establishments — Overtures not well Received by Mexican Authorities — Vallejo Comniandante at Sonoma in 18:J4 — Russians Sell to Captain John Sutter in 1811 and Depart for Alaska— P>idwell and Beunitz at Ross — Fort Ross in 188S 29-S() CHAITEi; V. .MEXIfO UuflES Cor.ONTZATTON NOUTH OF SaN FuANCTSCO. Governor Figueroa Sets on Foot a Coloni/alion Enterprise — Attempts to Establish Settlements at Pelaluma and Santa Rosa in 18:!:!— In 183.j Sonoma Laid Out and made the Center of Military Power and Secular Coloni- zation North of the Bay — Vallejo Authorized to Otler C'olonists Grants of Land — Becomes the Controlling Power — Makes an Alliance with Indian Chief Solano — In 18:38 Sinall-Pox Among the Indians- - 37-44 iv CONTRNTS. CHAPTER VI. The C'ArTi'UE of Sonoma. Mexican Kule Neariiig ils EdJ — California Leaders Quarreling Among Themselves — War Expected Between United Stales and Jlexico— Americans in a Ticklish Position — What Larkin was Expected to do — What Fre- mont did do — Bancroft's Instructions to Commodore Sloal — Vallejo — Sutter — Fremont and Gillespie — Midnight Attack by Indians — Fremont's Uelurn Down the Sacramento Valley — Sonoma Captured — Capture of Vallejo — Taken to Sacramento — How Received by Fremont Ah-M ciTArTER vn. The Bkah Flag — Stars and STRirEs. Kevolutionists Found a New Government — Hear Flag Adopted — How and by Whom JIade — Captain Ide Issues a Proclamation — Lieutenant Missroon Arrives — Killing of Cowie and Fowler at Santa Rosa — Battle of Olom. Jiali — Castro Leads Troops Across the Bay — Fremont Hastens to Sonoma — Goes to San Bafael — C'alilornia Bat- talion Organized — Fremont Starts After Castro — Captain Montgomery Dispatched Lieutenant Revere to Sono- ma with an American Flag, and July 9 the Bear Flag came down and the Stars and Stripes went up - 57-G!l rilAPTER VIII. The Past and Present. The Bear Flag, how male— Names of Kevolutionists — State Seal — General M. G. Vallejo — General .7. A Sutter— Sonoma District Pioneers — Native Sons of the Golden West ....-.- 70-SS CHAPTER IX. Military and Politicat. History. Sonoma Under Jlililaiy Rule — Civil OtHcers Appointed — How Justice was Administered — Constitutional C(Ui- vention — First Election — California Admitted into the Union — Machinery of Civil Government Set in Motion — Agitation of County Seat Removal— Santa Rosa Chosen — Early Court Accommodations — County Buildings - - - - . 89-101 CHAPTER X. Location and Topograi'iiv. Boundaries of Sononia Cnunty—Her Mountain Ranges — Forests and Valleys .... 103-106 CHAPTER XI. American Occvpation. Sonoma a Central Point after the Bear Flag Revolution— Efl'ect of Discovery of the Mines— F. G. Blume's Staleraent— First Settlers at Petaluma— Bachelor Ranches— County as it was in 1854— Assessor's Report for 1855 — First Fair in Sonoma County 107-117 CHAPTER XII. Reminiscent of a Third op a C'enti'ry Aoo. An Epitome of the First Year's Record of the Sonoma County Journal— The Geysers in 185(i— The Petaluma Hunters in 18(iO 118-l'i8 CHAPTER XIII. The Coi nty Developing. Immigration Pours into Sonoma County -Products of Country Between Pelalumaand Bodega— Santa Rosa and Russian River \ alleys— The Year 18(it— Land Troubles— Bodega War— Healdsburg War— .Muldrew Shadow- Miranda Grant — Bnjori|ues (irant - - - ItiO-Hl rjONf Biffs. CHAPTEH XIV. GEOI.OriY, MiNEHALOGY AND FOSSII-S. Basalt Rock — Asbestos — Chromic Iron — Cinnabiir — Suli>luir — Coi^per — Fossil Uemains — Petri fad ions 14'i-147 CHAPTER X\'. MExrcAN Land Grants of Sonoma County. ItancUos Musalacon — ^Colate — Giiilicos — Canada lie Pogolome — Llano de Santa liosa— El Molino — Ilnichica — Yulpa — Guenoc — Soloyome — I'odega — Blucher — Callajomi — Muniz — Lagnna de San Antonio — Arroyo de San Antonio — Senode IMalconies— Uoblar de la l\[isera— Canada de la loniva — Eslero Americano — German — Peta- liima — San Miguel — 'I'zabaco — Caslamayome — Cabeza de Santa Kosa — Agua Caliente . - - 14y-lo6 CHAPTER XVI. Haii.ways, Highways, Water Courses and Bays. San Francisco and Northern Pacific Railroad — North Pacific Coast Railroad — Santa Rosa and Carquinez Rail- road—Public Highways — The Last Stage Driver — Rivers and Water Courses— Bays and Coves— Colonel Peter Donahue - - - ir)7-104 CHAPTER XVIL Events in Chronoi-ogicai, Order. A Record of Years — Incidents — Accidents — Discove.ies — Developments, etc. .... ]fi.")-170 CHAPTER XVIIL Indian Mass.^cres. Ill-fated Sonoma Countians — Doctor Smeathman— Canfield, Van Ostrand ami Borton — Barnes — .Jndson, Woodworth, Baker and Old Benjamin — Leihy — Mrs. Sallie Ann Canfield 171-177 CHAPTER XIX. Sonoma and Marin County Agricultural Society. When Organized — Its Changes in Organization — Its Fairs and Officers — Change of Location of Fair Grounds — Its Good Ett'ect on Our Industries 178-1H3 CHAPTER XX. Nature's Laboratory- The Geysers. The Geysers — Visited in ISOri by Vice-President Schuyler Colfax and Samuel Bowles, Editor of the Springfield .Massachusetts, liepuhlican — What Mr. Bowles Wrote — Clark Fos.s — The Eartluiuake, 1808 184-188 CHAPTER XXI. Redwood Forests. E.\tent of Redwood Forests — Lumber Output of Mills — Colonel Aimstrong's Grove — A ilousterTree — The Big Bottom Forests, etc. . - . 18!I-UI4 CHAPTER XXII. Names Belonging to History. President Rutherford B. Hayes, Geneial William T. Sherman and Secretary of War Alexandei' Kauisey— Culo- nel Rod .Matheson—.Iolin Miller Cameron — Salmi Morse- - - 1!I5-'J00 CHAPTER XX ill. Zoological. Animals Native of Sonoma County — Grizzly, Brown and Black Bear — Panther-Fox— Wolf— Coyote— Wild Cat— Mounrain Cat— Elk, Deer, Antelope, etc. 201-204 CHAPTER XXIV. Our Flora anm Conikera. - . . . 205-209 OONrEWTS. CHAPTEll XX\'. " I.o Till-; Poou Indian." The Imliaus— Mission Record of Tribal Kaines— Vallejo's Esliiuatp of their Niimlier— Number at Time of American Settlement— Complexiou and Stature— How they Lived— Tlieir Implements— Interview with Cask., bel and Jose Viquaro — John Walker's Statement ;;iO-'2i:i CIIAPTKi; XXVI. General Htstory to a CoNcirPsiox. From 1870 Onward — The Southern Counties Open to Settlement— Its Etieft— Sonoma Prospers Without a Change in Iler Industries— Grain and Potatoes not Grown so Largely— Stock, Hay ami Fruit Growing— Kail- ro.ids Stimulate the Lumber Business— Statistical and Otherwise — Sonoma County's Future '.'H-SiO criAPTKR XXVIl. Santa Rosa. Town.ship History- Growth of tlie Cily— liusine^s Interests- Aildress of Hon. G. A. Johnson— Churches- Schools — The Press . 2i3-242 t'llAPTKR XXVIIl. PETAT.r>rA Township History— Origin of Name- Chronological— Business Interests— Churches— The Press 24:^-'2(i4 CHAPTER XXIX. Township IIistoriks. Mendocino— Clovcnlale— Sonoma— Analy—Boilega — Russian River —Washington— Redwood— Ocean — Salt Point — Ivuighl's Valley — Vallejo 2(i5-:i0(i ^BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES,^ A. Abraham, Isidore 20!) Adams, John 43!) Agnew, S. J Cy'SH Aguillon, Camille TUT Akers, Stephen T3G Alexander, J. .M 2T0 Alexander, L. M 311 Allen, Otis .SOo Allen, S.I :i82 Amesbury, William 722 Anderson, L. S (iT5 Anderson, T. H. B 48;i Andrews. Robert 581 Arata, B 402 Auradou, J. A (i:W .\iistin, Charles 400 Austin, James 'MH Austin, J.S ry.M B. Baer,G. B 2TT Bailey, J. II 4fi(j Bailitr,John 588 Baker, A. .M 729 Bale, Edward T 70:i Barhani, .1. A .'U.5 Barlow, S. Q .531 Barnes, E. H fi40 Barth, Adam T:^3 Bayler, John .")11 Baylis, T. F r,7-> Bell, R. W ()l(i Berry, B. B 818 Berry, S. B ;i22 Bidwell, Ira 41.5 Bloch, George 809 Bodwell, C. A 008 Bolle, Henry 830 Bohlin, F. A" 427 Bouton, Andrew 477 Bowman, J. H 497 Braunern, William 725 Briggs, Robert 419 Brooke, T.J 407 Brooks, Elmout 507 Brown, F.T 700 Brown, fl. C ,507 Brown, John 398 Brotherton, T. W 331 Bryant, D. S 338 Burnett, A. G 400 Burnham, Albert 708 Burris, L. W 088 Butt, Allied 026 Byce, L. C 548 Byington, H. W .59!) C. Cady, M. K 434 Caldwell, Albert .545 Campbell, Joseph 578 Campbell. J. T OOi Cantield, W. D 078 Cary, Bartley 7 Ki Carithers, D. N 42!) Carr, Mark 41!) Carriger, C. C 08;i Caniger, Nicholas 009 Carroll, Patrick 415 Cassiday, Samuel 2."j8 (;assidy, J. W 405 Castens, Henry GT2 Cavanagh, John 560 Chalfanl, J. K .554 Champion, John 541 Chaniplin, C. C 584 Chart, Obed .591 Chase, M. E .' 500 Chauvet, Joshua .525 Clark, Benjamin ....412 Clark, James 532 Clitlord. Rev. G. B 077 CONTENTS. CoiUlin?, G. R 440 C'otfey, lleury ('•i4 C'olgau, E. P.' 00!) Colson limtliers 587 C'orastock, William 40'2 Cooper, S. K 'UD Cooper, K. M 4:)4 Cooper, James ... .004 Conuer, Joliu -ilG Cottle, B. H 2o8 Crais, O. W 4i;8 Cralle, L. J OJO Crane, Joel . . .■"'.">(! Crane, ]{i)ljert 40.') Curtis, J. II 478 I). Davidson, J. ¥. 404 Davidson, S. E 408 Davis, G. W. ikE. W 707 Davis, H. II 488 Davis, U. S 403 Davis, \V. S 008 De Haj' Brothers 715 Delalieia, H. II 440 Dfumau, Hod. Ezekial 543 De Turk, Isaac 310 Dickenson, J. K 404 Dickenson, AV. L 303 Diet/., Gerhard 725 Drayeiir, A. ct Brollicr 510 Dresel, Julius 500 Dunn, M. H 040 Dunu,T. M 504 Duuz, C. J 452 Eardlev, W. J 522 Edwards, J. L 384 Ely, Elisha 311 Esppy, G. T 590 Evans, E. W. M 450 F. Farrar, M. C 503 Far(|uar, C. H 442 Ferguson, J. N 543 Ferguson, W. W 542 Fitield, E. J 307 Fitield, W. E 390 Fischer, G. F 50!) Fisher it Kinslow 005 Fisk, Kev S. b 541 Filch, II. D 403 Fowler, E.J 026 Fowler, J. E 023 Fowler, S. C 623 Fowler. !S.L 624 Fox, Henry 333 Frasee, C. b 407 Fulkerson, .lohii 328 Fulkerson, Kirliard 327 Fulkerson, S. T 330 KulkersoM, T. W 329 Fulton, Thomas 524 Gale, D. I{ 612 Gale, Otis 521 Gallaway, A. J 3f5 Gannon, J. P 310 Gaver, A. P (103 Gearini;, Charles 717 Gibson, John 565 Gibson, J. K 568 Glaisler, T. S 5. 9 Glynn, F. B .563 Gobbi, P. & J. J 321 Goodman, L. S 702 Goss, Johu 605 Grainger, W. C 338 Granice, II. II ',81 Grant, C. F 405 Grant, J. I) 404 Green, P. F 091 Gregson, James 330 Grillith, E.J 412 Glover, CD 410 Gundlach, Jacob 499 Gunn, J. 0. B 540 H llafhl, Conrad 100 Hall, George 585 Hall, J. W - 487 Hall, L. B 487 Hall, Robert 517 Haran, Owen 428 Hardin, J. A 400 Ilardin, L. A 009 Harmon, G. AV 485 Harris, Jacob 4.50 Harris, T. L 300 Harris, G. S 087 Hartsock, Mrs. I. M 030 Ilasbrouck, H. B 484 Haskell, Barnabas 310 Haskell, W. B 320 Hathaway, E. L 731 Hayden, E..\\ 440 Hayne, W. H 445 Heaton,S. O 028 Hendri.x, Lewis 020 Higgins, Asa 701 Hill, Dickson it Goodl'ellow 454 Hill, J. M 451 Hill, William.... 352 Hilton, W. H 001 Hinkle, J. B 530 Hoatr, O. H .503 Holloway, J. C 530 Holmes, H. P 728 Hoist, Peter 582 Hood, William 3.'0 Hooper, G. F 047 Hopkins, S. J 540 Howe, Roben 017 Howell, Orrin.' 619' Hubbard, Henry 504 Hudson, David 710 Hudson, 11. W 411 Hudson, Martin 700 Hunt, J. II 444 Huntley, G. W 481 Huntley, Will 372 I. Ink, W. V 442 Ivancuvich, George 331 J. Jewett, D. G 308 Jewetl. E. G 515 Johnson, G. A 3S0 Johnson. 3.7. 421 Jones, W. D 480 K. Kelly, J. W 378 Kennedy, G. H 526 Killam, A. F 724 King, G. F 0.50 King, John 435 Kirch, Henry 431 Knapp, A. H 734 Knapp, W. L 583 Kuu.st, Charles 714 Kraucke, P. W 5.1 L. Lal'ranclii, Giuseppi 732 Lang, J.B (io2 Lapum, Hicks 537 Laughlin, A. D 450 Laughlin, J. H 408 Laughlin, J. M 432 Lauler, Nathan A; Co 4-18 Lee, A. G 731 Le Febvre, O. j>1 508 Lehn, Charles 5Ul Leininger, Joseph. . . 6~<7 Lewis, J. B 470 Lewis, R. E 380 Lewis, W. A 606 Light, E. H 712 Likens, Levi 730 Lippitt, E S 037 Litchtield, Duraiit 638 Litchfield, Jlarliu 600 Longmore, William 607 Loomis, F. C 514 Losee, J. A 035 Luce, Jirah 345 Luce, M. Y 493 Ludwig, T. J 370 Lyon, R. B 711 M. Manion, William 370 Mauion, W. U 379 Manuel, II. C 676 Martin, Jlrs. F. Jlcti 642 Martin, W. II ..406 Mather, J 348 Matheson, Col. Rod 340 Matthews, C. W 523 Mayuard, F. T .585 McChristian, Owen 598 McChristian, Patrick 5.0 McClelland, Buchanan 711 JlcCoimell, W. E (i.50 McDonnell, William 492 McGaughev, L. J 401 McGee, J. Il (iOO JIcHarvey, Cliarles 041 McMeaus.A. C 344 McNabb, J. II 2.57 McXear, J. A 518 Meacham, Alonzo 643 Mecham, Harrison 084 Melson, J.R 425 Merchanl, T. S 66!) Merrill, J. P 546 Meyer, Claus 583 Micliaels, Augu>l 700 Michaelson, L. C .630 Millingtou, Setli 555 Miller, A.J 420 Miller, C. S 66ii Miller, O. T 51(i COyTEXTS. Miller, T. B :547 iMills, A. J 547 Moore, A. P oOl Moore, Koberl 6«1 Mordecai, ThoiiKis 480 Morris, J. II. 1' 35S Morrow, E. E 574 Mulgrew, F. B 691 Mulgrew, J. F 351 N. Nay, S. A 453 Near,'C. D ms Norton, L. A 424 U. O'Brien, Joliu 08!) Oliver, J. S U'Jo Ormsby, G. W 43:i On, .Julius 718 Overton, A. P :J32 Overton, J. II 714 P. Paulieco, F. J 051 Pajre. T. S ()^6 Parker, Freman 511 Parkerson, C. J 737 Parks, I). H 474 Passalacjua, F 723 Patty, L. H 570 Pearce, George 682 Pepper, J. T 401 Pepper. W. H 48!) Peny, C. A 604 Peters, A. N 422 Peters, J. T 482 Peterson, A. .1 350 Petitdidier, N 728 Philips, Waller 575 Piezzi, Victor 367 Piggott, .1. K 473 Pond, C. H 270 Poulson, O. P 721 Pratt, E. F 6.55 Pressley, .1. G 580 Prindle, William 426 Proctor, T.J 377 Puniphrev, A 671 Putnam, D. W. C 513 Putnam, T. C 507 Katkliir, W. G 620 Hagle,G. J 388 Kagadale, ,1. W 309 Range, Charles 505 Kankin, .J. II 420 Uasthen. Henry 472 Keid, .1. B 397 Iteiners, C. A ,574 I'.icksecker. L. E 0.59 Uidgwav, .Jeremiah 436 l!ol)in.son, W. .J 519 Kodgers, A. W 358 Hodgers, J. P 345 Rogers, E. A 343 Rose, J. R .579 Ross. Ijo.nsoTi 55S Kufus, Ernst .538 Runyon, Arraslead 325 Russell, W. F 671 Rutledge, Thomas 690 f^arguisson, Cornelius 557 Sauhorn, G. N .560 Savage, C. W 735 Sbarboro, Andrea 48S Scanimon, CM 459 Schmidt, Peter 727 Schniltger, C. II 594 .Schocken, Solomon 450 Schroder, John 094 Seaman, J. F 6.52 Sears, Franklin 517 Seavey, S. A 391 Shattuck, D. O 5.52 Shaw, I. E 459 Shaw, S. H 409 Shaw, William 690 Simi, G 673 Simpson & Roberts 674 Sink, W. D 713 Skillman, Theodore- 088 Smith, R. P 662 Snyder, J. R 413 Soidale & Giacomini 4!)8 Spencer, B. M ... 334 Springer, ChrislopI 726 Stamer & FeUhneyer 065 Stearns, F. R 5.!6 Steele, Frank 726 Stephens, William 705 Stevens, Lester 534 Stewart, David 497 Stewart. D. R 609 Stolen, P. N 615 Stridde, Charles 335 Sti'ong, John 704 Stuart, A B 341 Stuart, A. McG 342 Stuart, C. V 430 Sullivan, I. W 349 Surryhne, Edward 690 S wain, R. ,M 392 ' Sylvester, D. n' 512 T. Talbot, Coleman .559 Talbot, Holmau 507 Taylor, J. S 4.55 Taylor, O. A 047 ; Thompson, A. J 6.54 Thomson, E. P 053 Tivnen, John 462 Torr, C. L 0.53 ; Torrance, S. H 573 Trapet, J. B 551 Trip]), 11. L 548 I Tupper, G. A 3.55 [ U. ! Underbill, J. G 3.57 V. Vallejo, M.G 72 I Vollmar, P. II 013 M'agele, Conrad . . .732 Walden i Co 509 - AValls, David 501 A\'alters, Sol 709 Warboys, J. W 365 Ward, T. M 667 Ware, A. 15 ,5.52 Wartield,R. H 644 Warner, A. L 469 \\'egener, Julius 580 Weguer, Edward 481 Weils, I^leasaut 317 Wells, W. R 314 Weske, Adolph 535 Weyl, Henry 443 Whallon, Murray 656 V\'hite, Harrison 381 White, J. H 673 Whitney, A. L. i: Co 617 Whitney, A. P 447 Whitney, W. B 681 Wightman, Chauncev 504 Wilbert, P .". , ','77 Wilcox, W. O 411 Wiley, J. W 597 Williamson, J. R 723 Wilson, J. E : 430 Wilton, T.G 314 Winans, D. M 6M2 ■Winkle, Henry 619 Winkler, Clayton 627 Winter, T. S 502 Woodward, C. W 615 Woodworth, FA 373 ■\Voolsev. E. W 576 Worth, "W. H 3.55 Wright, F. C 3.58 Wright, W.S. M 479 Y. Yandle. F. J 6.55 York, C. W 6-18 Young, B S 374 Young, J. S 592 Z. Zaitnian. William 555 Zimiuerniau, George 503 ILLUSTRATIONS. Allen, Otis, Residence of 394 Adams, John 438 Auradou, J. A 632 Bouton, Andrew, Residence, Or- chard and Nursery of 476 'Briggs, Robert 418 Colgan, E. P 698 Dickenson, W. L 360 Dickenson, W. L , Residence of. .361 Glynn, F. B., Residence and Mills of 562 Johnson, G. A Frontispiece McChristian, Patrick .528 Poulson, O. P 720 Proctor, T. J 376 Ragsdale, J. W 308 Runyon, Annslead 324 Scammon. C. M 4.58 Shearer, M. M 223 Sonoma County Court-House. . . . 99 Stamer & Feldmeyer, Residence and Winery of 064 Stewart, David 496 Stuart, A. B 340 Wiley, J. W 596 i INTRODUCTORY. ^ -^&( tT first seeming the writing of a county history does not present the features of a difficult task, but tlie work once entered upon, it is found tliat the very narrowness of the field but serves to perplex and render more intricate the labor. As an integral part of the warp and woof of a great State it requires great care and nice discernment to determine where the shades of legitimate county history end and State history begins. This is more particularly true of Sonoma County than of any other county in the State, for she is the warp beam back to which is traceable every thread of California history since it passed under the dominion of the .Vmcricans. Nowhere else in the State is there presented such a tangled skein of history to unravel as in this same Sonoma County. At the very outset we are confronted with four distinct and different conditions of humanity, each fulfilling an allotted life-work — all living history. Compassed by different envi- ronments, and battling with that destiny that marks the fittest for survival, each has a claim for recognition and Justice from the pen of truthful, impartial history. Indians, Russians, Spaniards and Americans will each, in turn, re- ceive tliat attention and consideration that the importance of their respective being and life- mission may seem to warrant. There is now but a sad remnant of Sonoma County Indians left. Soon they will all have passed away. Of, and about them, coming generations will have a right to expect to find in the pages of history some authentic account. So, too, of the Rus- sians, who, in the early years of the century, and even before the Spaniards had tempted her wilds, had established a colony in the northern end of the now Sonoma County, it will be per- missible to give as extended an account as can be safely vouched for as being accurate and au- thentic. This Eussian occupation doubtless ac- celerated the coming hither of those under Spanish authority, and whatever there was of friction on account of this seeming joint occu- pancy of this territory by Spaniard and Musco- vite, comes within the legitimate scope of Sonoma County history. Of the Spanish occupation and rule, it will be our aim to use just discrimi- nation in drawing conclusions between the con- flicting statements and claims of the difierent historians of that period. For two decades pre- vious to the hoisting of the Dear Flag at Sonoma, and which ultimated in the termina- tion of Spanish rule on this coast, there seems to have existed an anomalous condition of attairs in California. Under the old Spanish rule, the San Franciscan friars had been granted liberal privileges, and with indomitable energy and zeal had extended their missions coastwise from San Diego to the center of the Territory. ,\s the honey bee is said to be tlic forerunnei- of civili- zation, so too, Mexican immigration seems to have followed with sleepy stops the paths made safe iiy the mori^ detci-mincl ['adres. These UI8T0KT OP SONOMA COUNTY. missions, whether or not they filled the full measure of expectations in the civilizing and Christianizing of the aborigines of California, certainly paved the way for the advance of a higher order of civilization. These ecclesiastical institutions, under the exclusive dominion of cul- tured ])riest3 of Castilian nativity, were con- ducted with a strict regard to system and business methods little understood by the im- migrants from Mexico who followed in their wake. Rich in herds and with granaries well stored with cereals, these missions became pur- veyors to the advancing colonists, as well as the army of soldiers sent hither by the Mexican Government. In this thrift of the missions, their seeming strength, lurked the concealed danger that ultimated in their doom. As slow as had been the progress of Spanish coloniza- tion, yet in 1821, when Mexico threw off the Castilian yoke, a liberal share of California's population were natives of the Territory. The better class had received the advantages of as liberal culture as the parochial schools of the missions afforded, and, naturally enough, began to assert themselves as factors in the political affairs of the Territory. Mexican independence achieved, those here, natives of Spain became the subjects of suspicion and surveillance; and in this class was embraced all the mission priests, who certainly laid themselves open to watchfulness by stubbornly refusing to take any oath of allegiance to the newly fledged Repub- lic of Mexico. In setting in motion the new machinery of Territorial Government, as ad- ministered from the City of Mexico, there came to the surface yet another disturbing agency, that gained force with the advancing years, and that was a growing animosity between those native of California and those sent hither by the ^lexican Government to fill either civil or mili- tary positions. AYith that superciliousness not uncommon to those who have basked in the sunshine of a higher and more refined civiliza- tion, the Mexicans sent hither to fill positions of honor and emolument, evinced a contemptu- ous regard for those whose educational advan- tages and social opportunities had been confined to the circumscribed limits of mission and pueblo. This naturally met with the resent- ment at the hands of the " native sons " that it merited. This simply shadows forth existing conditions in California twenty years anterior to the commencement of American rule, and may be epitomized thus: The mission padres intuitively realized that republican govern- ment was the beginning of the end of the life- work to which they had consecrated the best years of their existence. The Government of Mexico, with an empty treasury, had already set lustful eyes upon the wealth of these mis- sions, the accumulations of years of depriva- tion, toil and danger, and as hush-money to conscience was willing to devote a share of the loot to the aid of colonization in California. The governing classes of the Territory were not averse to this confiscation of mission wealth, for they had already become used to exacting from the padres a liberal share of their sup- port — and then the fact that the Padres were natives of Spain was sufficient to sanctify the rigorous end contemplated. And, finally, the native Mexicans had a contempt for native Cali- fornians and the latter had a very warm hatred for the former — in truth, everybody appears to have been jealous and suspicious of everybody else. A sorry beginning for experiment of re- publican government, certainly I And to add to the seething of this kettle of broth, within the decade following Mexican independence there began to straggle into the Territory, over the crest of the Sierras, the hated Americans; more dreaded than the denizens from the frigid north who had so unceremoniously established themselves at Fort Ross. It was a rather cheer- less prospect, this, for a Territorial government that was constantly receiving floridly written orders from the parent government to guard every avenue of entrance to the Territory against the encroachments of foreigners, with no seem- ing thought or attempt to satisfy the cravings of an empty, Territorial, military exchequer. These fulminations from the ancient city of the HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. Aztecs, that were usually months in reaching tlie C!alit'urnia government at Monterey, are only useful now to siiow how dense was the ignorance then in reference to the extent and t()pogra[)hy of California. AVhy, a thousand American colonists might have entered the mirtlicrn end of the Territory and sown and gathei-ed a cmp witliont the Governor of Cali- fornia knowing anything al)Out it. As the years came and went the Territorial authorities were more and more brought to a realization of the fact that the snow-capped Nevadas could not 1)0 accounted a safe wall of protection against invasion from the P^ast. With but a few forts scattered from San Diego to San Francisco, and they garrisoned by soldiers numerically few, and they, proverbially on the ragged edge of revolt on account of arrearages of pay, it is not a mat- ter of wonder that California became tlie poach- ing ground of hunters, trappers and all kinds of adventurers. The drift of such was naturally toward the northern end of the Territory. Tliis, together with a view of circumscribing as much as possible the occuj)ation by the Russians, evi- dently hastened the inauguration of military authority on the north side of the bay. While this must be accounted a very important event in writing up the annals of Sonoma County, it should not 1)0 allowed to overshadow the fact that, as had been usual in California, the cross had long jireceded the sword- -in truth, right here met, and were planted in Sonoma County soil, the cross of the Catholic church, thus far north on the circuit of its mission from Home, and the triune cross of the (ireek church, re- lating back to the Czar of Russia, and thus far southward on its mission of pointing weary, earth-laden humanity to the haven of peace and rest above. In future chapters will be found, as nearly as possible, in chronological order, all mattersof im|)ortauce relating to Cali- fornia, and to Sonoma County, particularly, from the time that civilized man first visited it, down to the ])resent time. HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. A (dHAPTBI? of (dBNTURIES. . 'Sy ®9'®'^^fe ^»»»«^^*^^^^^^^^ CHAPTER I. CAr.IKORNIA DISCOVERED IN 1542 BV JlAN RoDRIG LEZ CaBRII.M) ORK.IX OF THK XAME SlE Francis Drake in 1579 — the wonderful things he saw in Marin County — Montekev v>ky discovered by viscaino in 1g03 a complete blank in history for a period of 160 YEARS THE SaN FrANOISCAN FrIAES PLANT THE CROSS AT SaN DiEGO, J UNE 11, 1769 IN July, 1769, a party start overland for San Diego to establish a mission at Mon- terey — failing to recognize Monterey they continued on north, and on the 2d of November discovered the Bay of San Francisco — Monterey was founded, a mission established; and from there in 1772 ax expedition started to explore the Bay oi- San Francisco — following around the eastern shore of the bay, on the 27th of March THEY CAME TO SaN PaIJLO BaY, AND DOUBTLESS HAD A VIEW OF SoNOMA CoUXTV HILLS AND MOUNTAINS — IN 1775 San Fraxcisco Bay was explored by water — IN 1776 a presidio AND MISSION was ESTABLISHED AT SaN FrANCISCO THE Y'EAR PREVIOUS BoDEGA BaY HAD BEEN DISCOVERED ON SEPTEMBER 23, 1776, AN EXPLORATION IN BOATS TOOK PLACE AND AN ESTUARY- OF SaN PaBLO BaY WAS NAVIGATED TO ITS HEAD — DOUBTLESS PeTALUMA CrEEK — California weak and defenseless — the century ends and no settlement north of Yerba Buena. fHERE is nothing more attractive to the general reader, and more especially those in early life, than thrilling narrative of danger and adventure in the exploration and settle- ment of frontier territories. A desire to placate this somewhat morbid desire for sensational read ingsays a very great temptation in tlie way of the historian to draw somewhat upon his imagina- tion for his facts. However palatable tliis might be to the reader of the present, it would be a fraud upon coming generations, who will have a riglit to expect at the hand of the historian sub- stantial accuracy in the recital of historical events to be handed down to tliein. With this conception of what should be the highest aim of history, we turn to trace the first rays of civilization cast upon territory, now within the confines of Sonoma County. This necessitates a review of the early discovery and final settle- ment of California by the Spaniards. Of course tliere is great obscurity, and con- sequent contiicting opinions among historians relative to who was the actual discovei-er of California, and from whence the derivation of the name. The weight of the best authority, however, confers upon Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo, a Portuguese navigator in tlie Spanish service, the honor of liaving first visited the waters of our golden shores and set foot upon California soil. Cabrillo had under liis command two Spanish exploring vessels, and there seems little doubt that on the 28th of September, 1642, an- HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNT T. cliorage was reached in what is now San Diego liarbor, althongli the name tlien given was '• San Mignel." Tlie date of discovery, tlms disposed of, tlie next consideration is as to the probable origin of the name, California. Upon this point there is even a wider di\ergence of opinion among writers than as to who was the discoverer of the country. Upon this subject Hubert Ilowe Bancroft, who is in a position to arrive at as accurate conclusions on disputed historic points as any living man, says: "The name was ap- plied between 1535 and 153U to a locality. It was soon extended to the whole adjoining re- gion ; and as the region was supposed to be a group of islands, the name was often given in plural form, ' Las Californias.' " Whence came the name thus applied, or applied by C(')rtez as has been erroneously believed, was a ques- tion that gave rise to much conjecture before the truth was known. The Jesuit missionaries as represented by Venegas and Clavigero, sug- gested that it might have been deliberately made up from Latin or Greek roots; but favored the much more reasonable theory that the dis- coverers had founded the name on some mis- understood words of the natives. These theories have been often repeated by later wi'iters, with additions rivalling each other in absurdity. At last in 1862 Edward E. Ilale was so fortunate as to discover the source whence the discover- ers obtained the name. An old romance, the Serga/< of Esplandian, by Ordonez de Mon- talvo, translator of Amadh of GauJ, printed ])crhaps in 1510, and certainly in editions of 1519, 1521, 1525 and 152G in Spanish, men- tioned an island of California, " on the right hand of the Indies, very near the Terrestrial Paradise," peopled with black women, gritfins, and other creatures of the author's imagina- tion. There is no direct historical evidence of the aj)plication of this name; nor is any needed. No intelligent man will ever question the ac- curacy of Ilale's theory. The number of Span- ish editions would indicate that the book was popular at the time of th", discovery; indeed Eernal Diaz often mentions the Amadis of Gaul to which the esj>landi(ni was attached." This seems to set at rest definitely and forever the question of the origin of the name Cali- fornia. lieverling to Cabrillo's discovery of this coast, it only remains to say that that intrepid mariner died on one of the islands off from the Santa Barbara coast supposed to be San Miguel, from the effects of a broken arm, on the 3d of January, 1543, and there rests in an unmarked grave. Theie were other visitors to this coast following its discovery, but of their going and coming comparatively little is known, until Sir Francis Drake puts in an appearance, and finds a harbor, where he enters to make repairs on his vessel, the Golden Hind, on the 23d of July, 1579. What harbor was entered by Drake is yet, and perhaps always will be, a serious bone of contention among historians. The dis- putants are about equally divided between the Bay of San Francis^co, Drake's Bay (so called) in Marin County, and Bodega Bay in Sonoma County. Hubert Ilowe Bancrolt, in his recently published history of California, seems to be in some donbt himself, but as he evidently con- siders Drake a prince of prevaricators, he gives him the benefit of the donbt, and signifies his belief that the harbor now called Drake's Bay was his by right of discovery. But this is of small moment now, for all the records of Drake's visit to the coast are so extravagant and dis- torted that the conferring of his name upon an indentation in thecoast even as small as that just below Point Ileyes was more than he merited. In order that tiie reader ma}' judge for him self in reference to the degree of importance to be attached to Drake's statements, we give a sample of what was described as having occurred at the harbor where his vessel was being re- paired. " The arrival of the English in California being soon known throughout the country, two persons in the character of embassadors, came to the Admiral and informed iiim, in the best manner they were alile, that the King would UISrOUY OF SONOMA COUNTY. assist him if he might be assured of coming in safety. Being satisfied on this point, a numer- ous company soon appeared, in front of wliich was a very comely person bearing a kind of scepter, on whicli hung two crowns and three cliains of great lengtii; the cliains were of bones and tiie crowns of net-work curiously wrought with feathers of many colors. Next to the scepter-bearer came the King, a hand- some, majestic person, surrounded by a number of tall men, dressed in skins, who were fol- lowed by the common people, who, to make the grander appearance, had painted their faces of various colors, and all of them, even the chil- dren, being loaded with presents. The men being drawn up in line of battle, the Admiral stood ready to receive the King within the en- trance of his tent. The company having halted at a distance, the scepter- bearer made a speech half an Iiour long, at the end of which he be- gan singing and dancing, in which he was fol- lowed by the King and all his people — who, continuing to sing and dance, came quite up to the tent; when, sitting down, the King tak- ing off" his crown of feathers, placed it on the Admiral's head, and put upon him the other insignia of royalty; and made liim a solemn tender of his whole kingdom. All of which the Admiral accepted in the name of the Queen, his sovereign, in hope these pi'oceed- ings might one time or other contribute to the advantage of England.'" This dish of taff"y secured for Drake knight- hood at the hands of Queen Elizabeth, who, in conferring the title, said " that his actions did him more honor than his title.*' And all this is reputed to have transpired close by Sonoma County over three hundred years ago. The only definite discovery of real merit after that of t'abrillo, was the discovery of Monterey Bay by Yiscaino in 1603. Thenceforward for a period of 100 years, so far as relates to civil- ization, complete silence brooded over what is now called California. No doubt during those long years the aborigines were filled with won- der and conjecture as to what had become of the bearded, white strangers, who in big canoes propelled by wind had come and gone for the period of a generation. As common as was great longevity of life to those untutored children of nature, the e^'cs that had beheld either Cabrillo or Vizcaino had long been closed in death be- fore that eventful morning of April 11, 17G9, when Juan Perez brought the San Antonio to anchor in the l>ay of San Diego. On board of this vessel were two Franciscan friars, Juan Viscaino and Francisco Gomez, with all the necessary church appurtenances necessary for the establishing of two missions. Aside from the crew there were a few carjjenters and black- smiths, together with a cargo of miscellaneous supplies. The Indians were friendly, and still had a traditional knowledge of the former visit- ors to this coast. In addition to those who took jjassage on the San Antonio, others to the number of over one hundred, and among them Father Junipero Serra, started overland from lower California. They reached San Diego on the first of July. It required some time for needed preparation, and on Sunday, the 16th of July, with all the ceremonies common to such occasions, Father Serra blessed and planted the cross, around which was to cluster memories of the first permanent establishment of civilization in California. We have neither time and space, nor does it come within the scope of this county history, to enter into a minute detail of the struggles and vicissitudes which followed the line of the establishing of missions, and the slow' march of civil government up the California coast. Our object will have been accomplished when we have made complete the chain of Spanish occu- pancy from the founding of the first mission, San Diego de Alcala, at San Diego, down to the founding of the last mission San Francisco Solano, at Sonoma. On July 14, 1769, Tartola, with sixty men, including fathers Juan Crespi and Francisco Gomez, started from San Diego for the purpose of founding a mission at Monterey. Tiieir wanderings were l)y devious and sometimes HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. rugged trails, as they deemed it necessary to keep near tlie coast in order not to miss the liaven of their destination. But mountains insnrnionntable'drove tlieni to lower levels, and they seem to iiave coine down the Salinas Val- ley and reached Monterey Bay just ojiposite the present town of Castroville. Lo(jking at the bay from the land, they failed to recognize it as the object of their search. The pine point, where is now Pacific Grove Ketreat, served to till the description of the navigator who had tlescribed Monterey Bay, but after exploring it by land as far south as Carniello they concluded that the bay tiiey were looking for lay further to the north; and, acting upon this decision, they resumed their inarch. As unfortunate as was this mistake to those weary, foot-sore pilgrims, tliey had the compen- sating honor of making a discovery of more importance to the world than the short delay in fonnding a mission at Monterey, for on the 2d of JSovember they discovered the great Bay of San Francisco, destined to become one among the most consequential harbors in the world. But their orders were to found a mission at Monterey, and like good Catholics the^' wei-e obedient to the mandate given them; and being now convinced that that bay was the one lying under the shadow of Point Pinos, already vis- ited by them, they set out on their return jour- ney, and ou the 28th of November again reached Monterey, and passing over the hills to Car- mello Bay, they pitched camp and remained until the 10th of December, taking a general survey of the surrounding country. Grass was now abundant for their animals, but game and even iish were scarce. A mule was killed, and its flesh, together with that of the sea-gulls, was used to husband the flour that was already reduced to fourteen small sacks. At a council held it was decided to retrace their steps to San Diego. On an eminence, probably near where now stands the old San Carlos Mission, a cross was planted, at the foot of which was buried a document giving a brief sketch of the jouriiey- inifs and discoveries of Partola and his com- pany. On the 11th they started southward following the general road np which they had come, and without any serious mishap or ad- venture reached San Diego on January 24, 1770. While this expedition failed in the accomplish- ment of the object, for which it had been in- augurated, it is certainly entitled to precedence in the very fnjnt rank of all e.xplorations ever undertaken by the Spaniards in California. It must be borne in mind that the years of over a century and a half had run their course since keel had furrowed the Bay of San Diego, at the time the San Antonio with the missionaries landed there in the spring of 1769. It was only three months after the effecting of this foot- hold to civilization on this coast, and two days before the formal inauguration of the mission at San Diego, that Partola and his pilgrims started forth for a journey of several hundred miles, through the wilds of California. They were like a rudderless vessel at sea, without chart or compass, save that on their left they knew that the waves of the broad Pacific were ceaseless in their throbbing pulsations along California's shore. Of the interior they knew nothing. They had every reason to believe that it was populous with barbarians; and yet with all these dangers staring them in the face they went forth and achieved the results already nar- rated. To erect a monument to the memory of the members of that expedition would be useless; for more enduring than marble or granite shaft is the Bay of San Francisco, which they discovered. If we may be permitted the e.xpression, the happy mistake of Partola and his fellow ex- plorers had added the Bay of San Francisco to the geography of the world. It now seems inex- plicable why it was not at once made the center from which radiated other Spanish occupancies of the coast. But it must be remembered that California belonged to Mexico, and Mexico be- longed to Spain. It can well be understood that orders and mandates transmitted through the course of so circuitous a route, and so ham- pered by all the formalities of red tape, so dear niSTOUY OF SONOMA COUNTY. to Spanisli officials, were very old, and some- times of impossible fulfillment when they reached this coast. And to still more compli- cate matters there seems to have been little nnity of feeling and action between the Padres who were alone intent upon founding missions for the Cliristianization of barbarians, and the military who were looking to colonization as the ultimate means of establishing permanent civil government on this coast. In a double sense, it was a " house divided against itself." The bonds of sympathy that had united Spain and Mexico were becoming strained; and there was a growing estrangement between civil and church polity in California which plainly indi- cated that the twain could not move harmoni- ously forward upon parallel lines in the same field. Either left to a free territory, would have acquired vigor and strength from the very diffi- culties to be surmounted; but occupying a common field and aiming at cross purposes was productive of enervation and inaction. The Padres, at first only seemingly fired by an hon- est zeal in behalf of the spiritual welfare of be- nighted luunanity, were not proof against the cravings for wealth and dominancy when their llocks and herds began to be numbered by the thousands, and they naturally became obstruc- tionists to the large acquirement of lands by those who came as colonists to seek homes in this land of productive soil and genial clime. While missions were being founded at incon- sequential places along the coast, and inland, to the southward, the waters of the Pacific contin- tinued to silently ebb and flow through the great Golden Gate. Three years had run their course since Partola and his adventurous ex- plorers had set foot on the sand dunes skirting the Pay of San Francisco, before further at- tempt was made at exploration to the north. And as strange as it niay seem, it was a San Francisco bay under the lea of Point Reyes that was yet the objective point by the Padres who wished to found a mission that would do suitable honor to San Francisco, their patron saint. With this dominant idea still in view. on March 20, 1772, Commandante Fajes, with Crespi, twelve soldiers, a muleteer, and an In- dian, left Monterey for the north. The Partola expedition had settled the matter that the San Francisco bay of which they were in search could not be reached by a land expedition around the west side of the inland sea they had encountered. Hence Fajes and his party de- termined to pass around it to the east. In this attempt they discovered San Pablo Pay on or about the 27th of March, 1772. And right then and there is probably the first time that the eyes of civilized man had a view of the hills and mountains now compassed within tiie bounds of Sonoma County. They passed upon the south shore of Canjuinez Straits, and on- ward to the junction of tlie Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers; then, turning southward passed east of Mount Diablo, going across the mountains, striking the trail up which they had traveled somewhere in Santa Clara Valley; and thence continued on their way back to Monte- rey. Considering the number of men, this was among the most notable expeditions on i-ecoi'd. Old Spain, with a seemingly more intelligent appreciation of the importance of this newly discovered harbor to her possessions on the Pacific coast than had either the Mexican or California authorities, became very importunate to have it speedily occupied. Orders were cheap, but the available means and colonists were not so readily obtainable. I'nt Lieutenant Agala set out with an expedition from Monte- rey, on the San Carlos, and entered the harbor of San Francisco on the first day of August, 1775. He spent over forty days in explorations of the harbor, but neither the map nor diary of this survey is preserved. Several of the officers landed several times on the iu)rthern shore of the bay, and mention is made that Canizares was sent to explore the noi'tliern branch of the " round bay " (San Pablo), going up to fresh-water rivers, and bartering beads for fish with many friendly natives. They may possibly have navigated Petahima Creek, but this is uncerhiin. HISTORY OF aONOMA COUNTY. ' The year following, on SepteiriLer 17tii, under the direction of Comniandante Moraga, the presidio of San Francisco was duly inaugurated amid the firing of cannons, ringing of bells and all the formalities usual to typify absolnte Spanish possession. The San Carlos had just arrived, and Captain Quiros, Canizares and Re- ville, master and mate, participated in the lay- ing of the corner-stone of this the future metropolis of the Pacific coast. Something over one hundred persons were present on that occasion. Rij^ht then and there it became a fi.xed finality that civilization held the keys to the Golden Gate to the Pacific coast. In order to punctuate this so as to rivet the attention of the reader,- we borrow the language of a writer in the Overland Monthly who says: "On that same 17th of September, on the other side of the continent, Lord Howe's Hessian and British troops were revelling in the city of New York." We might supplement this with the observation that if it took from 1776 to 1823 for Spanish occupation to extend its lines from San Fran- cisco to Sonoma, it should somewhat break the force of carping criticism in reference to the time consumed by Moses aiul the children of Israel in their emigration from Egypt up to the land of Canaan. But in this we anticipate history. On the 23d of September, Quiros, Canizares atid Cambon took the ship's boat and went on a voyage of discovery up the bay. The year ])revious, on the 3d of October, Bodega y Ca- dra, in the schooner Sonora., had entered the bay named at the time Bodegfl. The parties who started out on this exp)loration of the bay from the ])rcsidio of what is now San Francisco, was imbued with the idea prevalent then that there was a strait connecting that bay with Bodega. It was but natural that they should seek a satisfactory solution of this question. They started on the 23d of September and re- turned on the 29th. Mr. Bancroft, in speaking of Quiros and this expedition, says: "Although prevented from e.xploring the great river, he was able to settle another disputed (piestiou. and proved that the 'round bay' (San Pablo), had no connection with Bodega; for, sailing in that direction, he had discovered a new estuary and followed it to its head, finding no passage to the sea, and beholding a lofty sierra which stretched toward the west aiuI ended, as Quiros thought, at Cape Mendocino. This was proba-/ bly the first voyage of Europeans up the wind- ings of Petaluma Creek." And thus it is probable that contemporaneous with the date of our declaration ot national independence on the Atlantic side, Quiros and his companions vis- ited the very site upon which Petaluma now stands. The next mention we find that has any con nection, either near or remote, with Sonoma County, is the visit of Captain George Van- couver to this coast in 1792. It will be remem- bered that Drake, in his very florid recital of what had occurred on his visit to this coast, had accepted from the " King " everything far and near as a generous gift to his Queen, and in consideration of the striking resemblance of the sand dunes around Point Reyes to the chalky sea bluffs of Great Britain had named his newly -discovered country " New Albion." Vancouver seems to have had faith in the Drake fiction, and with true Briton stubborn- ness persisted in applying the name New Albion to this coast as far south as San Diego. While his mission was ostensibly one of scientific research and observation, it evidently excited distrust of English designs in the mind of Governor Arrillaga. Vancouver had arrived at San Francisco, Governor Arrillaga being at Monterey, the capital. Unwittingly the C!om- mandanto of San Francisco, in genuine Spanish hospitality, had not only given Vancouver a hospitable reception, but had furnished him an escort of soldiers to guard him on a snrt of picnic into the interior, as far iidand as the mission of Santa Clara. For tliis indiscretion Commandante Sal received a not unmerited reprimand from Arrillaga; for Vancouver in his report of this visit shows that he took in the whole situation; that Spain, with a few rusty HI8T0RT OF SONOMA COUNTY. (•aiiiKins and scarcely soldiers enough to man thein, was lioldinir peaceable possession of California. The story of British vessels hovering along the Pacific coast of course was transmitted to both Mexico and Spain, eliciting the usual in- junction to the Governor of (,'alifornia to keep all foreign vessels from landing in Pacific coast harbors. How such orders could be enforced when there were not more cannon at the San Francisco Presidio than there are fingers to a human hand (and at some of the sea coast mis- sions the two or three cannon possessed were not even mounted), it is difficult to understand. Ibit the mainsprii g to all authority in Califor- nia had evidently reached the conclusion that something heroic must be done. The whole story is told by Hubert Howe Bancroft in the following extract: •'Together with his order reijuiring precau- tions against the English and other foreigners with a special view of keeping Spanish weak- ness from their knowledge, and subsequently, tlie viceroy fmnounced his intention of remedy- ing that weakness by strengthening the four presidios and by the immediate occupation of Bodega. Tlie 16th of J uly Arrillaga sent in a report on the state and needs of Californian de- fenses. A^ancouver, nnwisely permitted to in- vestigate, had been surprised to find California so inadequately protected, and the Spaniards seem to have realized the utter insufficiency of their coast defenses at about the same time; but nothing was accomplished in 171*3 l)eyond an unsuccessful attempt to occupy Bodega Port. Tills Bodega scheme and the whole project of strengthening the California defense were de- vised by Viceroy Revilla Giedo, and urged most ably in his report of April 12, 1793, a docu- ment which covers the whole northern question from a Spanish standpoint, and although little consulted by modern writers, is a most important authority. '•After giving a complete history of his sub- ject the distinguished author argues that dis- tant and costly outposts in the north are not desirable for Spain; and attention should be given exclusively to the preservation and utili- zation of tiie establishments now existing in California, and to prevent the too near appi'oach of any foreign power. To this end Bodega should be held, and the English plan of making a boundary of San Francisco Bay be thus de- feated. Probably this one measnre may suffice in the north; Nootka may be given up, and Fnca, and also the Entrada de Heceta, or Co- lumbia River, unless it should prove to aft'ord a passage to the Atlantic or to New Mexico. * * " Because of its supposed excellence as a har- bor, and because of its vicinity to San Francisco, making its occupation by England equivalent to an occupation of that harijor for purposes of contraband trade, it was decided to found a Spanish settlement at Bodega. Moreover, there were rumors that foreigners were already taking steps in that direction. To this end, the 10th of February the viceroy announced the giving of orders to the commandante at San Bias to des- patch a schooner and long-boat for the service, and Arrillaga was directed to go to San Francisco to meet the vessels. He gave orders the 20th of March to have a road opened from San Francisco across to Bodega. These instructions came up on the Acanzaza, which arrived at San Francisco on the 24:th of July. Arrillaga obtained boats from the vessels, set across some thirty liorses, and on the 5th of August Lieutenant Goycolchea, with a sergeant and ten men, set out to open the road and to meet at Bodega. Matute, who with the Sutil and Me.cleana had probably been sent direct to that port from San Bias. Unfor- tunately 1 have not found Goycolchea's diary which was sent to Mexico, and we know abso- lutely nothing of either the exploration by sea or land, save that Matute returned to San Fran- cisco on August 12th, and five days later Arril- laga informs the viceroy that the occupation of Bodega is put off for this year. The postpone- ment proved to be a permanent one, for some unexplained cause, and the ten soldiers and five mechanics with some stores intended for Bodega were retained by Sal at San Francisco." HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. So nearly came Sonoma County to civilized occupancy before the commencement of the cur- rent century. The only other, ami more defi- nite statement, of Spanish visitation to territory now within Sonoma County jurisdiction during the early years of this century, is that in Sej)- tember of 1810. Moraga, a Spanish officer, visited l)odega, '■ discovering and exploring to some extent a fertile valley in that region, to whicli, however, lie gave no name." Thus, in a hurried way, have we followed the fortunes of the Catholic cross northward from San Diego until it wtis securely planted at Lone Mountain. Over a third of a century had been marked on the dial of time, and yet that emblem of Cliristianity was yet nnplanted on the northern side of the Ijay. The tlociE OF THE lilSINKSS IN 1809, KuSKOF, AN OFFICER OF THE Alaska Fir Company, anchorkd in TIodioua Bav, anii with a lak(;e numiser of Aleut fishkumen who>[ he p,Ror(iHT ■\vrrii him, spent ekmit months fishixo and explor- ing — IN Isll THE Russians came hack to Bodega with an outfit to found a settle- ment — thev establish Fort Ross — were the first to estap.lish a permanent settlement IN Sonoma County — the California authorities object, but the Russians stay — they MAKE extensive IMPROVEMENTS; PLANT ORCHARDS AND RAISE GRAIN WHAT THE FRENCHMAN, Duiiaut Cilly, said OF Ross in 1828 — what varied occupations t.ie Russians followed THEV r.UILT SEVERAL VESSELS lioSS A liUSY BEE-HIVE oF INDUSTRY. 1 1 1 1 jE Spain was alwaj'S in a state of nn- rest coast possessions, slie was not bronglit face to in regard to the security of her Pacific face witli any real danger until in the first decade of the present century, At first it was England and France toward which lier appre- hensions were directed, with an occasional spasm of suspicion that the United States had a lust- ful desire for expansion in this direction. Of course Spain was having spats and wars witli other European powers, and tlie people of Cal- ifornia, when informed as to the government with which Spain for tiie time being was em- broiled, naturally felt uneasy when a vessel carrying the flag of such government was seen liovering along the California coast. The possessions of Russia up north had been turned to account and were then under the dominion of the Russian-American Fur Com- pany. As Russia and Spain were then as near at peace as was coinpatible with nations always in armed expectancy of war, no serious danger to California seemed to be apprehended from that source. Rut there were causes at work that turned tiie attention of Alaska authorities southward. The provision supplies they were dependent on from Russia, on account of ad- verse winds and other unavoidable causes, did not always reach tliem in season, and as a result, several times the gaunt wolf Famine stalked in their midst. Hunger knows no law, and in its presence the amenities usually observable be- tween nations at peace, are liable to be set at naught. In 1805 the newly appointed Russian Chamberlain, NicholiPetrovich Razanof, reached Sitka at a time wiien the inhabitants were in sore distress for food supplies. lie had a ves- sel laden with such articles as bethought would be needed by the presidios and missions of California and came down to San Francisco. IIISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. Kazanof was too great a diplomat to let the Spaniards know the real-condition of att'airs at Alaska. He had to feel his way carefully, for the authorities were under injunctions to en- courage no trade with foreign vessels. The missions had plenty of wlieat, just what he most coveted, and he had many articles of utility and ornament that the Californians needed and wanted. To make a long story short, Kazanof returned to Alaska with liis vessel well stowed with wheat. And more than this, it did not escape his keen eyes that the whcjle coast north of San Francisco was lying idle and un- productive. And another thing he did not fail to observe was that the waters abounded with sea otter. This same thing seems to have been taken in by the lynx-eyed Yankees even before Itazanof visited this coast, for we find it recorded that in 1803-'4 Captain Joseph O'Cain, in the American vessel (TC'aiii, made a sea otter j)oacliing expedition along the coast, going certainly as far south as San Diego, and being rewarded with a take of 1,100 otter-skins. Arrillaga had been appointed Governor of Cal- ifornia, and on his arrival at Monterey, the cap- ital, in 1806, one of his tirst pronunciamentos was a determination to put an end to illicit and contraband trade. lie expressed liimself cognizant of the fact that instructions from the head government had been, if not entirely evaded, at least loosely obeyed, and that he should not connive at such flagrant abuses. His intentions were doubtless honest, but then, humanity is fallible ! Thenceforward there were always vessels hovering along the coast, and it seemed remarkable how often they run out of water, or provisions, or had to make some needed repairs, and found excuses for anchoring for a time near some coast mission. The (iov- ernor of California and his handful of military could froth and fume as much as they pleased, but then what could they do about it 'i While these coast poachers in Spanish waters may not have direct connection with Sonoma (J(jnnty history, yet their meanderings were all con- verging toward IJodcgii Bay and tlic ultiiiiate occupation of the country from that point north- ward by the Russians. In truth, the only way to convey to the readers an intelligent concep- tion why the Russians made this long skip from Alaska to Ross, is by taking into account the wealth offered by the sea as well as the pro- ductiveness of the shore. In 1806 Captain Jonathan Winship, in the American vessel CrCdin, with his brother Nathan as mate, made a seaotter expedition on this coast. They were acting under the auspices of the Russian-Amer- ican Fur Company, and were accompanied by northern Indians and canoes to do the lishing. The Farallone Islands were found a fruitful field of operation. In September uf that year Captain Winship returned to Alaska with 5,000 otter-skins. In October of 1806 Captain Camp- bell, another American under contract with the Alaska Fur Company, and accompanied by Aleut tishermen with twelve bidaskes (tishing boats), passed a season on this coast and re- turned to Alaska in August of 1807 with 1,230 otter-skins. In 1807 Captain Winship was back to the coast again accompanied by fifty native hunters from Alaska, and his objective point seems to have been the Farallone Islands. How great was his success may he known from the fact that he i-etnrned north in April. Sev- eral other vessels are mentioned as having fished along the coast, and in every instance they are reported to have made a profital)le catch of sea-otter. Although outside of the chronological order of occurrences to be re- corded in this history we, in order to make clear the magnitude of the sea-otter fisheries along this coast, (piote the following from Hubert Howe Bancroft's History of California: " On April 1, 1811, the Albatross sailed for the north, leaving the O'Cain to look after atfairs on the lower coast, andreturnedto the Farallones to leave supplies. Then she went to Drake Bay. where she was joined by the (/Cain, and Isabel on the 11th of May. Here the two vessels re- mained a month, often communicating with the different gangs of hunters l)y means of boats. In .June the AUj((tri)Ss went south HTSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. again and was occupied in picking up for tinal departure the luinters and the product of their labors for l)oth ships; and on the I'Jtli she sailed for the north, arriving at the Russian settle- ments in August. After repairing the ship and discharging his Indians, Winship returned down the coast and anchored on the 27th of September at tiie South Farallones. The 2d of October, taking on board all the hunters, except Rrown with seven Kanakas, the Albatross sailed for the Islands, so loaded with furs that some water-casks had to be broken up and the hemp cables carried on deck." Ky reference to a note in the work above quoted from, we tind that the Alhatross, for the seasons of 1810 and 1811 took 74,526 fur seal skins, of which 73,402 were taken at the P'arallones. Besides these there is enumerated among the pelts 248 beaver, 21 raccoon, 6 wild-cat, 153 land-otter. 4 badger, 5 fox, 58 mink, 8 gray squirrel. 1 skunk, 11 muskrat and 137 mole skins. The estimated value of this cargo of furs at Canton, China, was .$157,397. A Captain Smith is re- puted to have visited the Farallones in 1808 accompanied by a band of Kadiac Indians and quite a Heet of bidaskes, remaining two years and departing with 130.000 seal, beside many otter skins. Alvarado is the anthority for the statement that there were months when 2,500 sking, worth $90 each, were exported. In order not to speak hap-hazard upon this subject we interviewed General AI. G. Vallejo, par- ticularly in reference to the subject of sea-otter (»n this coast, and we have it from his own lips that the Bay of San Francisco and all the bays and estuaries along tlie coast were swarming with them in the early decades of the century. But we return to the year 1809. That year was made memorable to Sonoma County from the fact that on .the 8th of January Kiiskof, an officer of the Russian Fur Company on the Kadiac. I'etrof master, entered Bodega Bay and remained there continuously until the 29th of August. It seems to have been a mission of observation, exploration and fishing combined. Friendly relations with the Indians of the sur- rounding country were established and a few temporary habitations erected. While we sliall always, in referring to this bay designate it Bodega Bay. the reader should be apprized that the Russians called it " Roumiantzof Bay.'" Through tlie natives Governor Arrillaga soon learned of the presence of a large Russian ves- sel at Bodega and that the crew had erected huts on shore. The number of persons given by the Governor as belonging to the KadUic, were forty Russians and 150 Indians, including twenty women. Fifty canoes were reported as having been crossed over from Huymenes Bay to Pt. Boneta. And here it is in place to explain in order that the carrying of these canoes, called by the Russians '• bidaskes,'" may the more readily be understood by the reader. They were constructed with a very light, flex- ible frame, over which was stretched a sheath- ing of sealskins so sown together as to render the seams impervious to water. The hunter could readily take his boat on his back and carry it a long distance. The Aleuts were ex- perts in the handling of these tiny crafts and did not hesitate to venture quite a distance out to sea in them. A stay of over seven mouths at Bodega had enabled Kuskof to form a very intelligent opinion as to wliether or not there was any- thing in that latitude worth the Russian Fur Company's further attention. He seems to have reached an affirmative conclusion. As he took back with him over 2,000 otter-skins as tangible evidence to the company of the worth of the field in which he had been tarrying, it probably did not require much urging on his part to induce his co-laborers at Alaska to seek a foothold in this more southern and genial clime. Referring to this visit of Kuskof to Bodega Bay, Air. Bancroft says: "The native chiefs were made friends by the distribution of petty gifts, and there is not much doubt that they made, either now or the next year, . some kind of a formal cession of territory to the new-comers. The price paid, according to the statement of the natives in later years, as Payeras tells us, IIISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. was "three Idaiikets, tliree ))airsof breeches, twu axes, three hoes, and some heads." It was upon Russian title derived through this jnunilicent purchase price paid, that Colonel Muldrcw, nearly half a century later, gave a great deal of disquiet to the American settlers all along the coast from Toniales Bay to Cape Mendocino. Raranof, the Chamberlain of Alaska, douljtless acting on instructions from St. Petersburg, took immediate stejis to found a settlement on the California coast. To this end, an expedition was fitted out and placed under the control of Knskof, who, on the Chirikof v{\i\i all necessary implements and supplies, left Alaska late in 1811 or early in 1812 for his new field of operations. Of this expedition l>ancroft sajs: " There were in the company ninety-five men of Russian blood, including twenty-five mechanics, and probably eighty Aleuts in a hunting fleet of forty bidaskes. The arrival seems to have been in March or April of 1812, though of this and immediately succeeding events there is no detailed record. The Aleuts were sent out to hunt otter along the coast, apparently with instructions not to enter San Francisco Bay, for it was best not to oflfend the Spaniards just at this time. The Russians prepared timber for several months. When all was ready the Aleuts were recalled to aid the me- chanics, and everybody went to work with a will on a foi't and other necessary buildings, and in tlie course of a few months a fortified village had arisen on the shores of New Albion. The site, selected probably during the previous viirit, was some eighteen miles above Hodega Ray, called by the natives Mad-shui-nui, in latitude 38° 33', loniritude 123° 15' accordinor to Russian observations, and the fort with its ten cannons was erected on a blutt' some hundred feet or more above the sea. * '^ '■■ All was completed and ready for occupation early in September. On September 10th, or August 30th of the Russian calendar, the name- day of Emperor Alexander, the establishment was formally dedicated with great festivities and named Ross, from the root (jf the name Russia, a name extending far back into an tifpiity. From that day dates the permanent occupancy of Sonoma County by civilized man. Fort Ross was something more than a mere station for the rendezvous of a fleet of fishing bidaskes. In a very few years it had become a manufacturing community, largely furnishing various kinds of supplies to the less skilled Spaniards south of the Bay of San Francisco. Of this we sliall speak more fully hereafter. Their ccjining to Ross was most certainly an infringement upon the territorial rights of Spain. P>ut they claimed, or pretended to claim, that by right of discovery made by Sir Francis Drake New Albion extended south to San Francisco Bay. The Spaniards on the other hand claimed that Spanish dciminion extended north to the Straits of Fuca. Through the natives (for the S|mnish authorities at San Francisco had as yet made little atteni])t at exploi-ation north of the bay), the Spaniards were made aware of the presence and operations of ihe Russians at Bodega and Ross. As in duty bound, an envoy was sent to Ross to learn the objects and aims of the Muscovites. The information olttained was duly transmitted by the Comniandante of San Francisco to the (lovernor at Monterey; and the governor in turn communicated the information to the Viceroy of Mexico, and thus it was started on its course to the ultimate end, the myal presence in Spain. Back through this tortuous channel, after a long lapse of time, came the injunction to the Commandante of San Francisco that he must have the Russians march on. Just how he was to enforce this order, with four rusty cannons, when the fort at Ross bristled with ten cannons of larger caliber, the King of Spain did not point out. But ink was cheaper, and not half as dangerous as powder, and the result was a wordy correspondence be- tween the (-Jovernor of California and Knskof. For several years the communication between the California authorities and those at Ross was as slow as the courtship between deaf mutes, so far as related to the right or wrong HT8T0RT OF SONOMA COUNTY . of Russian occupancy here. It could not well l)e otlienvise. The Governor of CalitbrniH could oidy act on authority from the Viceroy at the city of Mexico; and the Viceroy derived his power from the King of Spain. On the other hand Kuskof at Fort Ross looked to the Chamberlain of Alaska for his instructions, and the Chamberlain took his commands from the Czar of Russia. And thus it came to pass that the conflicting interests of two of the miglity powers of Europe, for a time, centered right here within our own Sonoina County. While a i:;reat many orders of a mandatory character, rei^uiring the Russians at once and immediately to vacate Ross were duly delivered to Kuskof, as coming from the Viceroy of ]\[exico, it does not seem to have disturbed the friendly amenities tiiat appear to have existed between the Span iards and Russians here, for they seem to have done a great deal of bartering in violation of the revenue laws as intended to be administered by the Mexican authorities. This trade was carried on by means of Russian vessels. Tiie reader can keep in mind that year after year there was remonstrance made by the Spanish authorities of California against Rus- sian occupation at Ross, always accompanied by the fearful admonition that the Viceroy of Mex- ico would admit of no further delay in the matter. Moraga, the tirst to go to Ross to spy out what the Russians were about, was sent back to Ross late in 1813, and according to Spanish account delivered to Ivuskof the ulti- matum of speed}' departure from this coast; while Russian record of the same occurrence is, as Bancroft says: "That Moraga on this second visit brought witl) him not only twenty cattle and three horses as a gift, but also the verlial announcement, as welcome as unexpected, that Governor Arrillaga had consented to an ex- change of commodities on condition that pend- ing the Viceroy's decision, the company's ves- sels should not enter the ports, but transfer goods in boats. Accordingly Kuskof at once despatched his clerk Slobodchikof to San Fran- cisco with a cargo which, in the manner pre- scribed, and to t!g<^i^<^tgg»t^(^t^? .Si^i *. SJ'thk s;-'ANIaki'S ^:oRTH of the fay, ;^ 23s^3aj wi?^^rpi'^^ ^^^si3ag?i.;^'^^:a3a.^^33ii '^'^^i^^''-^i^^i^^'i-'-^i:^^(-'>'^'^^^^^%^^^ #fe' CHAl'TER III. After fortv years of wattixc the Spaniards sktre a i.ougment north of Sax F'RANnsco Bay A BRANCH MISSTON Tn Doi.ORES AY AS ESTABLISHED AT SaX RaFAKT. IN 1818 IN 1821 AN EXPLORING EXPEDITION WENT NORTH UNDER CaPTAIN ArGUELLO - THEY STARTED FROM Cauqfinez; traveled n- the Sacramento Valley, i-iioiiAiiLY m Sha>ta, then crossed TOWARD the coast AND CAME DOWN RuSSIAN RiVER Vai.LKY — I r WAS THE MOST EXTENDEI> EXPLORATION OF THE SPANIARDS IN 1822 IT WAS DETERMINED To ESTABLISH A NEW MISSION NdRTII (IF THE BAY" IN 1823 PaURE AlTIMIRA, WITH A SlITAnLE ESCORT, STARTED Tn Lix Al i: A MISSION site; VISITED Petaluma Yall]:y, Sonoma Yallioy, and finally chose Sonoma- AFTER CONSIDERABLE TROUBLE AND DELAY THE MISSION AT SoNOMA, UNDER TFILE OF "SaN Francisco Solano," was duly dedicated Sunday, the 4rii day of April, 182-1 — the Russians at Ross sent articles of decoration for the church at Sonoma — fruit trees and \ineyards planted — cattle, horses and sheep Mri.Tipi.Y, AND San Francisco Solano GATHERS TO ITS FOLD SEVERAL HI NDRED InDIANS. fORTY years had come anJ gone since pre- sidio and mission was founded at Yerba Buena,aiid yet no fruitful attempt had been made to establish settlement on tlie north side of the bay. And the lirst movement in that direction seems to have been impelled by a teeming necessity. At the mission Dolores were many hundred neophytes who had been gatliered in from the many Indian tribes south of the bay. Among these Indian converts there was an increasing and alarming mortality from ])ulmoHary disease. The padres, as a sanitary measure, determined upon the founding of a branch mission in some more sheltered and genial clime on the north side of the bay. Tiie ju'esent site of San Rafael was the location de- termined upon. The establisliment was to be more in the nature of a rancho, witli cliapel, baptistry and cemetery, than a regularly or- dained mission. Padre Luis Gil yTahoada was detailed to take charge of this branch establish- ment of the church. In reference to this brancii mission P>aucroft says: "The site was proliably selected on tiie advice of Moraga, who had several times passed it on his way to and from Bodega; though there may have been a special examination Ijy the friars not recorded. Father Gil was accompanied by Derran, Abella, and Sarria, the latter of whom on December lith, with the same ceremonies that usually attended the dedication of a regular mission, founded the assistencia of San Rafael Arcangel, on the spot called by the natives Nanaguani. Though the establishment was at first only a l)ranch of San Francisco, an assistencia and not a mission, with a chapel instead of a church, under a supernumerary friar of San Francisco; yet there was no real ditt'erence between its manaij-einent HISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. and that of the other missions. The luimber of ncoiihytes trausfei red at first is supposed to have been about 280, but there is but very little evidence on the subject, and subsequent trans- fers, if any were made in eitlier direction, are not recorded. By the end of 1820 the population had ineTcased to 590. In 1818 an adobe build- ing eighty feet long, forty-two feet wide and eighteen feet high had been erected; divided by partitions into chapel, padre's house and all other apartments i'e(|uired, and furnished be- sides with a corridor of tules. Padre Gil y Taboada remained in charge of San Rafael until the summer of 1819, when lie was succeeded by Juan Anioros." That even the southern eud of what is now Sonoma County was yet a comparative terra incognito to the Spaniards, is evidenced by the fact that as late as May, 1818, on the occasion of a visit of President Payeras with Comniandante Arguello to San Rafael, they made quite an exploration of the surrounding country and re- ported having seen from the top of a hill " the Canada de los Olompalis and the Llano de los Petalnmas."' Thus, as Moses viewed the promised land from the summit of Mount Pisga, did priest and comniandante from the summit of a Marin County hill look down upon Peta- luma Valley in the year of grace, 1818. The comniandante referred to in this connection was Captain Luis Arguello. Governor Arrillaga having died in 1813, Ai-guelio filled the position of acting governor until Sola was appointed to that position. Ai-guello was a man of consider- able energy and dash, and it was but natural that Governor Sola should select him for a hazardous enterprise. Late in the summer of 1821 the Governor determined to send an ex- ploring expedition up north. As this was one of the most consccpiential explorations ever undertaken under Spanish rule, and as it has an intimate connection with Sonoma County, we give place to Hubert Howe Bancroft's nar- ration of the meaniierings of the expedition. which is as follows: "Thirty live soldados de cuera and twenty infantes, part of the force coming from Mon- terey, were assembled at San l"'rancisco. Horses and much of the supplies were sent from Santa Clara and San Jose up to the Strait of the Car- quinez. The officers selected were Captain Luis Arguello, Alferez Francisco de Haro, Alferez Jose Antonio Sanchez, and Cadet Joaquin Estudillo, with Padre Bias Ordaz as chaplain and chronicler, and John Gilroy, called the 'English interpreter Juan Antonio.' Some neophytes were also attached to the force, and all was ready for the start the 18th of October. The company sailed from San Francisco at 11 A. M. in the two lanchas of the presidio and mission, landing at Ruyuta, near what is now Point San Pedro, to pass the night. Next day they continued the voyage to the Carquinez, being joined by two other boats. Saturday and Sunday were spent in ferrying the horses across the strait, together with a band of Ululatos and Cauucaynios Indians, en route to visit their gentile homes, and in religious exercises. Monday morning they started for the north.. " The journey which followed was popularly known to the Spaniards at the time, and since as ' Arguello's expedition to the Columbia." The Columbia was the only northern region of which the Spaniards had any definite idea, or was rather to them a term nearly synonymous with the northern interior. It was from the Columbia that the strange people sought were supposed to have come; and it is not singular in the absence of any correct idea of distance, that the only expedition to the far north was greatly exaggerated in respect to the distance traveled. The narratives in my possession, written by old Californians, some of whom ac- companied Arguello, are unusually inaccurate in their versions of this affair, on which they • would throw Init very little light in the al)seuce of the original diary of Father Ordaz — a docu- ment that is fortunately extant. "Starting from the strait on the morning of October 22, Arguello and his company marched for nine days, averaging little less than eight hours a day, northward up the valley of the niSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. Sai-rainento, which they called the Jesus Maria. The names of raiiclierias 1 give in a note. Tliere is little else to be said of the march, the obsta- cles to be overcome having been few and slight. Tlie natives were either friendly, timid, or slightly hostile, having to be scattered once or twice by the noise of a cannon. The neophyte Rafael from San Francisco had but little diffi- cujtv in making himself understood. The most serious calamity was the loss of a mule that fell into the river with two thousand cartridges on its back. There were no indications of for- eigners. "On the 30th, to use the words of the diary, 'the place where we are is situated at the foot of the Sierra Madre, whence there have been seen by the English interpreter, Juan Antonio, two mountains called Los Cuates — the Twins — on the opposite side of which are the presidio and river of the Columbia. The rancherias be- fore named are situated on the banks of the Rio de Jesns Maria, from which to-morrow a differ- ent direction will betaken.' Accordingly the the 31st they ' inarched west until they came to the foot of a mountain range, about fifteen leagues from the Sierra Nevada, which runs from north to south, terminating in the region of Bodega.' Exactly at what point the travel- ers left the river and entered the mountain range, now bounding Trinity County 07i the east, I do not attempt to determine, though it was evidently not below Red Bluff. The distance made up the valley, allowing an aver- age rate of three miles an hour for sixty-eight hours, the length of the return march of ninety- six hours through the mountains, at a rate of two miles an hour, and the possible identity of Capa, reached in forty-four hours from Car- quinez, with the Capaz of modern maps opposite Chico, would seem to point to the latitude of Shasta or Weaverville as the northern limit of this exploration. " For nine days, the explorers marched south- ward over the mountains. No distances ai'e given, and I shall not pretend to trace the exact route followed, though I give in a note the names recorded in the diary. Like tiiose in the valley, the savages were not, as a rule, hos- tile, though a few had to be killed in the ex- treme north; but their language could no longer be understood, and it was often diflicult to obtain guides from i-ancheria to rancheria. The natural difficulties of the mountain route were very great. Many horses died, and four pack- mules once fell down a precipice together. The 3d of November, at Benenue, some l)lue cloth was found, said to have been obtained from the coast, probably from the Russians. On the 6th the ocean was first seen, and several soldiers recognized the 'coast of the Russian establish- ment at Bodega.' Next day from the Espinazo del Diablo was seen what was believed to be Cape Mendocino, twenty leagues away on the right. Finally, on the 10th, the party from the top of a mountain, higher than any before climbed, l)ut in sight of many worse ones, aliandoned by their guides at dusk, \v\\\\ only three days' rations, managed to struggle down and out through the dense undergrowth into a valley. '• And down this valley of Libantiliyami, which could hardly have been any othei- than that of the Russian River, though at what point in the present Sonoma County, or from what direction they entered it I am at a loss to say, the returning wanderers hastened; over a route that seems to have presented no obstacles — doubtless near the sites of the modern Healdsburg and Santa Rosa — and on November 12th, at noon, after twenty hours' march in three da^'s, arrived at San Rafael. Next day, after a thanksgiving mass, the boats arrived and the w-ork of ferrying the horses across to Point San Pablo was be- gun. The infantry soldiers, who were mounted durinor the expedition, also took this route home, both to Monterey and San Francisco. Thus ended the most extensive northern expedi- tion ever made by the Spaniards in California." By reference to the notes referred to by Mr. Bancroft in the above, it is (juite certain that Arguello and his companions reached Russian River at or near the present site of Cloverdale. IirSTOIiT OF SONOMA COUNTY. Be that as it may, it is lieyoml cavil that they were the tirst Sj)aiiianis to traverse the central valleys of Sunoiria County. While the expedi- tion was not fruitfnl of far-reaciiing results, yet it furnishes an importaut leaf to local history. iJeing the tirst of civilized race to traverse the territory of the county its whole length, entitles that little hand of explorers to kindly reniein- hrance and honorable mention in her annals. I'ut the time was close at hand when Sonoma County which had lain fallow all these years, except that jjortion of seaboard under occupancy by the Russians, was to come under Spanish domination. The establishment of a new mis- sion was determined upon. The causes which impelled this movement northward will seem .strange to the readers of the present generation. In the language of Bancroft, " In 1822 at a con- ference between Canon Fernandez, Prefect Pay- eras, and Governor Arguello, it had been decided to transfer the mission of San Francisco from the peninsula to the ' northeastern contra '■osta on the gentile frontier,' a decision based on the comparative sterility of the old site, the insalubrity of the peninsula climate, the broad- ness of tlie field for conversion in the north, the success of the experimental founding of tlie San liafael branch, and not improbably a desire on the part of two of the three dignitaries to throw tlie few fertile ranchos south of San Francisco into the hands of settlers. The matter next came up just before tlie death of Payeras, who seems to have had nothing more to say about it. March 23, 1823, Padre Jose Altimira, very likely at Arguello's instigation, presented to the de]>utacion a memorial in which he recom- mended the transfer, he being a party naturally interested as one of the ministers of San Fran- cisco. On April 9th, the deputacion voted in favor of the change. It was decreed that the assistencia of San liafael should be joined again to San Francisco, and transferred with it, and the suggestion made that the country of the Petalumas or of the Canicaimos, should be the new site. The suppression of Santa Cruz was also recommended. The Governor sent these resolutions to Mexico next day, and Altimira forwarded copies to the new prefect, Scnaii,un April 30th, but received no response. " An exploration was next in order, for the countiy between the Suisunes and Petalumas was as yet only little known, some parts of it having never been visited by the Spaniards. With this object in. view, Altimira and the disputado, Fi'ancisco Castro, with an escort of nineteen men under Alferez Jose Sanchez, em- barked at San Francisco on the 25th of dune, and spent the night at San Rafael. l!oth San- chez and Altimira kept a diary of the trip in nearly the same words. * * * The explor- ers went by way of Olompali to the Petal unia, Sonoma, Napa, and Suisun valleys in succes- sion, making a somewhat close examination of each. Sonoma was found to be best adapted for mission purposes by reason of its climate, loca- tion, abundance of wood and stone, including limestone as w^as thought, and above all for its innumerable and most excellent springs and streams. The plain of the Petaluma, broad and fertile, lacked water; that of tlie Suisunes was liable, more or less, to the same objection, and was also deemed too far from the old San Fran ■ cisco; but Sonoma, as a mission site, with eventually branch establishments, or at least cattle-ranchos at Petaluma and Napa, seemed to the three representatives of civil, military, and Francisian power to offer every advantage. Accordingly on July ith, a cross was blessed and set up on the site of a former gentile ran- cherai, now formally named New San Francisco. A volley of musketry was tired, sex'eral songs were sung, and holy mass was said. July ith might, therefore, with greater propriety than any other date be celebrated as the anniversary of the foundation, though the place was for a little time abandoned, and on the sixth all were back at Old San Francisco." We cannot give the reader a more correct idea of this tirst exploration of the southern end of Sonoma County than is given in the language of Padre Altimira's diary, which is epitomized as follows in Alley, liowen it Co.'s History of HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNT F. Souoiiiii County: '• The I'adre and his party left San Rafael, where a mission had been already founded, on the 25th of June. 1823, and during the day passed the position now occupied by the city of Petaluma, then called by the Span- iards, ' Pnnta de los Esteros,' and known to the Indians as ' Chocuale,' that night encamping on the 'Arroyo Lema," where the large adobe on the Petaluma Rancho was afterward constructed by General Vallejo. ''Here a day's halt would appear to have been called, in order to take a glance at the beautiful country and devise jneans of further progress. On the 27th they reached the famous • Laguna de Tolly,' now, alas, nothing but a place, it having fallen into the hands of a Ger- man gentleman of marked utilitarian principles, who has drained and reclaimed it, and planted it with potatoes. Here the expedition took a northeasterly route, and entering the Sonoma Valley, which Father Altimira states was then so called by former Indian residents; the party encamped on the arroyo of ' Pulpula,' where J. A. Poppe, a merchant of Sonoma, has a large tish-breediug establishment, stocked with carp brought from Rhinefelt, in Germany, in 1871. The holy father's narrative of tiie beauties of Sonoma Valley, as seen by the new-comers, are so graphically portrayed by himself that we cannot refrain from quoting his own words: • At about 3 1'. M.,' (June 28, 1823,) ' leaving our camp and our boat on the slough near l)y, we started to explore, directing our course north- westward across the plain of Sonoma, until we reached a stream (Sonoma Creek) of aljout five hundred plumas of water, crystalline and most pleasing to the taste, flowing through a grove of beautiful and useful trees. The stream flows from some hills which enclose the plain, and terminate it on the north. We went on, pene- trating a broad grove of oaks; the trees were lofty and robust, aft'ordiug an external source of utility, both for firewood and carriage nmterial. This forest was about three leagues long from east to west, and a league and a half wide from north to south. The plain is watered by another arroyo still more copious and pleasant than the former, flowing from west to east, but traveling northward from the center of the plain. We explored this evening as far as the daylight permitted. The permanent springs, according to the statement of those who have seen -them in the extreme dry season, are almost innumer- able. No one can doubt the benignity of the Sonoma climate after noting the plants, the lofty and shady trees — alders, poplars, ash, laurel, and others — and especially the abundance and luxuriance of the wild grapes. We ^ib- served, also, that the launch ma}^ come up tlic creek to where a settlement can be founded, truly a most convenient circumstance. AVe saw from these and other facts that Sonoma is a most desirable site for a mission.' " Let us here note who are now located on the places brought pi-ominently forward by Padre Altimira. The hills which inclose the valley and ont of whose bosom the Sonoma Creek springs, is now occupied by the residence and vineyard of Mr. Edwards. The forest men- tioned covered the present site of the Leaven- worth vineyards, the Hayes' estate, and the farms of Wrutten, Carriger, Harrison, Craig. Herman, Wohler, Hill, Stewart, Wartield, Krous ct Williams, La Alotte, Hood, Kohler, Morris, and others. The second stream men- tioned as flowing northward from the center of the plains, is the ' Olema,' or flour-mill stream, on which Colonel -George F. Hooper resides, while the locality in which he states are innum- erable springs, is the tract of country where now are located the hacienda of Lachryma Montis, the residence of General M. G. Vallejo and the dwellings and vineyards of llaraszthy, Gillen, Tichner, Dressel, Winchel, Gundlach, Rnbus, Snyder, Nathanson, and the ground of the Buena Vista Vinicultural Society. The head of navigation noted is the place since called St. Louis, but usually known as the Em- barendero.'' Of this first exploration of the country round about Petaluma and Sonoma, every incident will be of interest to the reader. In Padre HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. Altiinira's diarj, note is inaile of the killing of 1 a bear on the Petaluina flat. Mention is also made that their first night's camp (probal)ly near where the old Vallejo adoba now stands.) was with eight or ten Petalumas ^Indian?) hiding there from their enemies, the Libantilo- queini, Indians of Santa Ivosa Valley. As alread}- stated, the exploration extended as far east as Suisun Valley, and .Mtiniira mentions | tliat uu the 30th of June they killed ten bears. (_)n returning they gave the Sonoma Valley a | more complete examination and crossed the | mountains back into the upper end of Petaluraa Valley and back to where they camped the first uight. From there they seem to have taken a : pretty direct route back to Sonoma, probably' about the route of the old road leading from Petaluma to Sonoma. This was on the 3d of July, and the next day the mission location was formally established at Sonoma. The prelate upon whose decision the Alti- mira enterprise depended for a full fruition had not yet been heard from. Altimira represented to him, and with a great deal of apparent truth, that " San Francisco was on its last legs, and that San Rafael could not subsist alone." But the desired sanction from the prelate had not yet come, (governor Arguello seemed impa- tient of delay and ordered Altimira to proceed with the work of founding the new mission, an order that Padre Altimira seemed to be only too ready to obey, for he seemed to have been a Hery, impetuous mortal, with more zeal than pi-udence. On the 12th of August he took possession of the effects of the San Rafael mis- sion by inventory, and by the 2;3d he was on his way to Xew San Francisco with an escort of twelve men, and an artilleryman to manage a cannon of two pound caliber. He was also accompanied by (juite a force of neophytes as laborers. By the 25th all hands were on the ground and the work i)f planting a mission cou)- menced. At the end of a week tlie work had so far progressed that it coidd be said of a surety that Sonoma Valley had passed under the do- minion of civilized man. But Altimira was destined to have his Christian forbearance tested. The jirelate refused to sanction the wiping out of the San Rafael mission. While he did not express a decided opinion on the propriety of the removal of the San Francisco mission, he expressed amazement at the hasty and unauthorized manner in which the deputa- cion had acted in the premises. On the 31st of August this decision reached the Padre at New San Francisco, and for the time put an end to his operations. That this interruption did not put Altimira in a very prayerful frame of mind is evidenced by the vinegar and gall apparent in his epistolatory record in connection with the subject. In a letter to Governor Arguello in reference to the prelate's decision, Altimira says: " I wish to know whether the deputacion has any authority in this ])rovince, and if these men can overthrow j'our honor's wise provis- ions. I came here to convert gentiles and to establish missions, and if I cannot do it here, where as we all agree is the best spot in Cali- fornia for the purpose, I will leave the country." As a plain missionary proposition Padre Alti- mira was right; but as an ecclesiastical fact he was restive under a harness of his own choos- ing, and was wrong. Sarriawas then president of the California missions. The seijuel to the prelate's decision is thus recited by Bancroft: "A correspondence followed between Sarria and Arguello, in which the former with many ex- pressions of respect for the governor and the secular government not unmixed with personal flattery of Arguello, justitied in a long argu- ment the position he had assumed. The (gov- ernor did not reply in detail to Sarria'o arguments, since it did not in his view matter much what this or that prelect had or had not approved, but took tiie ground that the deputa- cion was empowered to act for the public good in all such urgent matters as that under con- sideration, and that its decrees must be carried out. During tifty years the friars had made no progress in the conversion of northern gen- tries or occupation of northern territory: and now the secular authorities proposed to take 26 HISTORT OF S0N031A COUNTY. cliarge ut' the coiu^uest in tlie temporal aspect at least. The new establishment would be sus- ta ned with its escolta under a inajordomo, and the prelate's refusal to authorize Altimira to care for its spiritual needs would be reported to the authorities in Mexico. " Yet, positive as was the Governor's tone in general, he declared that he would not insist on the suppression of San Rafael; and, though some of the correspondence has doulitless been lost, he seems to have consented readily enough to a compromise suggested by the prefect, and said by him to have been more or less fully ap- proved by Altimira. By the terms of this compromise new San Francisco was to remain as a mission in regular standing, and Padre Altimira was appointed its regular minister, subject to the decision of the college; T)ut neither old San Francisco nor San Rafael was to be suppressed, and Altimira was to be still associate minister of the former. Neophytes might go Voluntarily from old San Francisco to the new establishment, and also from San Jose and San Rafael, jirovided they came originally from the Sonoma region, and provided also that in the case of San Rafael they might return if they wished at any time within a year. New converts might come in from any direction to the mission they preferred, but no force was to be used." Under these conditions and restrictions the tiery Altimira entered upon the task of Chris- tianizing Sonoma County heathen. While he did not let pass an opportunity to enveigli against the perverse and narrow-gauge methods of the old missions, he seems to have entered with the zeal of a Paul into his missionary work. Pancruft, who has all the data to enable him to speak with absolute certainty, says: "Passion Sunday, April 4, 1824, the mission church, a somewhat rude structure 24 Ijy 105 feet, built of boards and whitewashed, but well furnished and decorated in the interior, many articles having been presented by the Russians, was dedicated to San Francisco Solano, which from this date became the name of the mission. Hitherto it had been properlj' new San Fran- cisco, though Altimira had always dated his letters San Francisco simply, and referred to the peninsula establishment as Old San Fran- cisco; but this usage became inconvenient, and rather than honor St. F'rancis of Asisi with two missions it was agreed to dedicate the new one to San Francisco Solano, > the great apostle of the Indies.' It was largely from this early con- fusion of names, and also from the inconven- ience of adding Asisi and Solano to designate the respective Saints Francis and Solano that arose the popular usuage of calling the two missions Dolores and San Solano, the latter name being replaced ten years later by the original one of Sonoma."' Elsewhere we have said that right here in Sonoma County the Catholic and the Greek i Cross met, and it but lends luster to the pages of history to record that though coming by different roads they met in friendship; for, with deft hands, the communicants of the Greek church at Ross shaped gifts for ornamentation and decoration of the Catholic mission of So- ; noma. Altimira remained in charge at Sonoma I until 1826 when he was superseded by Buena- ventura Fortuni. Altimira had displayed con- siderable energy in his iield of labor, for at Sonoma he had constructed a padre's house, granary and seven houses for the guard, besides the chapel, all of wood. Before the year 1824 closed there had been constructed a large adobe 30 by 120 feet, seven feet high, with tiled roof and corridor, and a couple of other structures of adobe had been constructed ready to roof, when the excessive rains of that season set in and ruined the walls. A loom was set up and weaving was in operation. Quite an orchard of fruit trees was planted and a vine- yard of 3,000 vines was set out. Bancroft says: " Between 1824 and 1830 cattle increased from 1,100 to 2,000; horses from 400 to 725; and sheep remained at 4,000, though as few as 1,500 in 1826. Crops amounted to 1,875 bushels per year on an average, the largest yield being 3,945 in 1826, and the smallest 510 in 182'^, BISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. when wlieat ami barley failed completely. At tlio end of 1824 the mission had 693 neophytes, of whom 322 had come from San Francisco, 153 from San Jose, 02 from San Rafael, and 9() had been baptized on the spot. By 1830, (ioO had l)een baptized and 375 buried; but the number of neophytes had increased only to 760, leaving a margin of over 100 for runaways, even on the supposition that all from San Rafael retired the first year to their old home. Notwithstanding the advantages of the site and Altimira's enthusiasm the mission at Sonoma was not prosperous during its short e.xistence." Thus far we have followed the foi-tunesof the cliurch in its missionary work on tins side of the bay. AVhile it was not as fruitful of results as the church probably expected, it at least paved the way for secular occupation. As it had been in the south, so too in the north an at- tempt at colonization was sure to follow in the paths made easy by the pluck and persever- ance of the padres. We again turn to Ross and ti'ace Russian occupation to a conclusion. 28 HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. ^^ tig^miMjB^g^-. _. ^ 11^ THE EUSSIANS AND EOSS TO A CONCLUSION, CHAPTER IV. TlIK RlSSIAN-i AT Ru>^S IJECIX Til RKALIZK THAT THEV H A \ K lou NAUKnW A FrKLI) WILI, lU' V M1IKI-; TKKKITOKV OU SELL THEllJ ESTAISI.ISIIMENTS TIIEIK HXEKTl KES AHE M )T WELL KECEUED 1!V MkXK AN Al TIK.IKITIES — 1.\ 1834: VaLLEJO WAS COM.MANHAME AT iSi iXUMA, AXD liEGAN T(J L'H>K SIIAKI' AFIEl: IH K Rl>MA.\S AT RoSS THE RfSSIANS i>I-IEl; THEIR I'KOPEKTV EnK SALE — iNVE.NTtiHv K MdST (iF THE MOCK AM) MiME UF THE HOUSES T'O His Sa( RAM i;XIc i ESTABLISHMENT RiDW lOLL AND ReXXITZ AT Ri i>s AS SlTTEu's AGENTS — A TRII' TO RoSS TWENTY-SEVEN YEARS AGO — ReNXITz's STOKV AlioUT SHOUT- ING A (JKIZZLY' BEAK FoRT Ross AND ITS SURROLNDINGS IN 1888. ^'S§(4A1N \vt3 turn to tliat busy bee-liive ot ,-;xai indiistrv, the Muscovite settlement at Fort ■^s^ Ross. We have somewhat in advance ^>f 1880 shown what had been accomplished by tliat colony. The time had now come wlien its futuru u.vistence had to be determined. There was no motive for tiie Russians to hold an. occu- pancy limited by Rodetfa Bay on the south and the Gualala River on the north. At best, tiiere was but a narrow bench of seaboard avail- able for either farming or orazing purposes. True, there was a wealth of forest back of this mesa, but thev had already learned that this timber was not durable as material for ship- building. They had pretty well e\liaustey tackino; backward and forward along the mountain side I gradually worked my way up to the trees where the vultures were. The heavy foliage of the pines prevented my getting a ready view of the game I was seeking. With my gun cocked and the muzzle pointing up I was moving cpiietly side- wise with eyes peer- ing into the canopy of l)oughs, when I was startled by tlie breaking of a stick close to my right. " ' (_)ne look was enough to set every hair of my head on end I Not much over the length of my gun from me stood, erect on its hind feet, a grizzly bear of monster size — at the time he seemed to me ten feet high! By impulse, I wheeled, brought my gun to a level, and with- out any attempt at taking aim, fired. The bear pitched forward upon me and we fell together — my gun flying out of ray hands, and some dis- tance away. I was frightened beyond the power of language to express. The bear and I had fallen together, but I had given myself a rolling lurch down the mountain which, for the moment, took rae out of the reach of his dreaded jaws. This advantage w;is not to be lost; and 1 kept going over and over without any regard to elegance of posture, until I had got at least two hundred yards from where 1 fi'll; and when I stopped rolling it was a problem with me which I was most, dead or alive. '"1 ventured upon my feet and looked cauti(jus- ly around, but could see no grizzly. To borrow a miner'sexpression, 'I began prospecting around.' I had an earnest desire to get hold of my gun, but a dislike to the neigjliborhood in which we had parted company. With the utmost caution I woi'ked my way up to a position overlooking the s|)ot where 1 and the grizzly together fell. To my surpiise, and gratification as well, there lay the bear stretched at full length, and dead. My random shot had proved what seldom occurs to grizzly bears, a dead shot. That,' said Mr. Bennitz, knocking the ashes out of an elegant meerschaum, 'was the biggest scare of my life.' ■• AVhile we have carried our chapter descrip- tive of Ross beyond the limits of Russian occu- pation we feel warranted, on account of its historic surroundings, in tracing its history to a conclusion in this chapter. As already stated, William Eennitz sold the Ross property in 1867, Charles Fairfax and a man named Dixon being the purchasers. They managed the property for a few years, when Fairfax died. In winding up the estate and business of the firm it became necessary to sell the property. J. W. Call be- came the purchaser of the upper and much the larger proportion of the ranch, on which stands the old Fort Ross buildings; and of the south- erly end Aaron Schroyer bought a large 'tract. These gentlemen are practical in their ideas of business and the property is now so handled as to yield a profit. After a lapse of twenty-seven years we visited Ross in October, 1888. We found a great change from conditions as thev were when Dennitz lived there. Through the very center of the grounds once enclosed Iiy a heavy stockade, now a county road runs. The Bennitz residence is converted into a public hotel, and a building once used as quarters for Russian officers is now a saloon. In an outside building is a store and postotficc. The towers in what was the diagonal corners of the fortress are now roofless, and, in consequence? of the worm-eaten condition of the K>gs are canting over, and it is only a (picstion of time when they will topple to the ground. The (ireek chapel yet stands erect with roof and belfry in fair preservation; but is no longei- used for holy purposes. Even the Russian cemetery to the south of the fort, that was quite plainly visible uiarour of ho^^/oma vounty. twenty-seven years ago is now nearly obliter- ated. Accompanied by Mr. Call we visited the old liiissian orchard half a mile back from the fort. Tiie fence made of heavy split boards by the liussians is still in fair preservation. We entered and plucked Spanish bellflower apples from trees planted by the Russians, back of 1820. -The twenty or thirty apple, plum and prune trees yet standing are moss-covered and their bark honey-combed by the busy bills of birds. AVe went back still further and took a walk through the redwood forest of new growth that has sprung up from stumps of trees first cut by the liussians when tiiey settled at lloss. ><'ot over half a dozen of the old redwood forest trees are standing in the grove, and but for the fact that the stumps are there yet from whicli the present forest sprang, we should not have recognized it as a forest growth of the present century. The trees have made mai'vel- ous growth. Having a pocket rule with us we measured a tree that was four and a half feet in diameter; and we were assured by Mr. Call that there were trees in the grove full live feet in diameter. This grove is, doubtless, of from .sixty to seventy-live years' growth. We are thus e.xact and explicit in reference to this forest of new growth because we know there is a wide- spread fear that in consequence of the rajjidity with which our redwood forests are being con- verted into lumber, that species of timber will ultimately become extinct. Kight there, uver- shadowing old Fort IJoss, is the refutation (.if such fallacy. ITTt^TORr OP SONOMA COUNTY. 3t me::!co urges colonisati north of m mim. •r^r^ ,J-, 1J ^r ^i^rrzrr^Torr;^^^ ^^-^-^ ^'^ ^^ ^^ ^^ ^ jjIzrp^J^rt J^ ^^-^^; :#%:I-%:J5^ CHAPTER V CtOVKRNoK FkuKROA, IX ORF.niKNCE Til IXr^TRrrTIi iXS FROM MkXICO SETS ON FOriT A COI.OXIZATION KNTERl'RISK ATTEMPT TO ESTABLISH SETTLEMENTS AT PeTALL'MA AND SaNTA KoSA IN 1833 THE ATTEMPT AT SaXTA RoSA FAILED IN 1835 SoNOMA MAS LAID OUT AS A PAT.LO AND MADE THE CENTER 01' MILITARY POWER AND SECULAR COLONIZATION NORTH uF THE 1!AY YaLLE.Ki AlTHiiR- IZED TO OFFER COLONISTS GRANTS OF LAND VaLLE.TO BECOJIES A ci iXTRi )LI.INU PI)\VE1£ IX THE NORTH HE MAKES AN ALLIANCE WITH InDIAN ChIEF SoLANO, AND HOLDS ALL nTHER JxDIAN TRIBES IN SUIi.IEi TIuN UNDER HIS MANAGEMENT THE MISSION SaN FraNCISCO SolANO WAS SKCUr.ARIZED IN 1884-'0 AND THE I'ROl'ERTY DISTRIBUTED AMONG THE NEOPHYTES — THE IxDIANS M'ERE FREED FROM MISSION RULE AND MANY WENT BACK 10 THEIR TRIBES — YaLLE.10 HAD Id WAR WITH SOME OF THE InDIAN TRIBES OCCASIONALLV, BIT THEV USUALLY WERE GLAD T(i EXTICR INTO AND ABIDE BY TREATY STIPULATIONS — IN 1838 THE SMALL-POX GOT AMONG THE IxDIAXS AXD THOU- SANDS DIED — ALONG IN THESE YEARS ValLE.IO SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN ALLOWED TO MAINTAIN THE SiiXOMA MILITARY AT HIS ciWX EXPENSE. fCHEAUDIA had become Governor of California by appointment of the Mexican (Tovernment. He was ordered as early as in 1827 to establish a fort on the northern frontier, either at San Rafael or San Francisco Solano. The presence of the Russians at Ross doubtle.-s inspired this order, and then such a post would not only be a notice to those Mus- covites that they must not venture further south, but would be a source of security and protection to the newly founded missions as well. The (Tovernor had no funds to put in successful execution the order. The next year he seems to have ordered a i-econnoissance for a suitable place for a military station, but nothing further was done at that time. The years had sped; (Jalifornia was rent with internal disoord: the old missions Jiad been looted until they were fast going to ruin, and on the 14th of January, 1833, Figueroa arrived at Monterey, the newly appointed (Tovernor. To evolve order out of chaos seemed to lie his high resolve. B^igueroa liad received special instructions from the Mexican Government to push occupation and settlement of the northern frontier with energy. In obedience to these instructions Alferez Vallejo was ordered to make an exploration, select a site, and offer land to settlers. To aid in this work the old missions were exjiected to bear the principal expense. Either through inability or flagging zeal in be- half ol' ;i government that was always impecuni- ous, the padres did not respond to this new levy upon their resources. Vallejo, in obedience to orders, made a tour to IJodega and Ross. Tiiat fall Vallejo made an attempt to esta!)lisb scttU'- UlSTOliY Ub' liONOMA COUNT Y. ments at Petaluma and Santa Rosa. Bancroft says: "Ten heads of families, tifty persons in all, agreed to settle at the former place (Peta- luma), hitherto unoccupied; but the padre at San Francisco Solano, hearing of the project, sent a few men to build a hut and place a band of horses at that point in order to estalilish a claim to the land as mission property. Two or three of the settlers remained and put in crops at Petaluma, Yallejo himself having ten bushels of wheat sown on his own account. The padre's representatives also remained, and the respective .claims were left to be settled in the future. Much the same thing seems to have been done at Santa Rosa, where a few settlers went, and to which point the padre sent two neophytes with some hogs as the nucleus of a mission claim. All this before January 8, 1834:. In his speech of May 1st to the deputacion, Figueroa mentioned the plan for northern settlement, but said nothing to indicate that any actual progress had been made. Tlie 14tli of May, however, he sentenced a criminal to serve out his term of punishment at the new establishment about to be founded at Santa Rosa. In June the rancho of Petaluma was granted by the (xovernor to Yallejo, and the grant approved by the deputacion, this being virtually an end of the mission claim. Respect- ing subsequent developments of 1834r-'5 in the Santa Rosa Valley, the records are not satisfac- tui'v; but Figueroa, hearing of tiie approach of a colony from Mexico, resolved to malce some preparations for its reception, and naturally thought of the northern estalilishment, which he resolved to visit in person. All that we know positively of the trip is that he started late in August, extended his tour to Ross, e.x- amined the country, selected a site, and having left a small force on the frontier, returned to Monterey the 12th of September. To these facts there may be added, as probal)ly accurate, the statements of several Californians, to the effect that the site selected was where Vallejo's settlement and Solano neophytes had already erected some rude Imildings, that the new place was named Santa Anna y Farias, in hitnur of the President and Vice-President of Mexico, and that the settlement was abandoned the next year, because the colonists refused to venture into a country of hostile Indians." The scheme of founding a frontier post at or near Santa Rosa seems to have proved a failure; at least the next move with that end in view was in the direction of Sonoma, where the mission San Francisco Solano had already run its course under ecclesiastical rule, and was then in process of secularization under the manage- ment of M. G. Vallejo as cominissionado. This failure of the attempted estalilishment of a settlement at Santa Rosa by Governor Figueroa, in the face of the fact that eleven years previous Altimira, taking his life in his hand, had estab- lished a mission at Sonoma, inclines us to take off our hat in reverence to that padre, although his zeal may, at times, have befogged his better judgment. History should be both impartial and just, and the records unmistakably show that the Catholic missionaries had occupied the field embracing the main portion of Sonoma County at least ten years Ijefore the military and civil authorities exercised dominion here. Figueroa still adhered to his policy of establish- ing a frontier settlement and garrison north uf San Francisco Bay. The following, the letter of instruction to Gen. M. G. Vallejo from Governor Jose Fig- ueroa in relation to the locating and governing of "a village in the valley of Sonoma," was transmitted only a few njonths before that (Jov- ernor's death: " POLITICAI. GOVEKXMENTOF LFl'ER CALIFORNIA . " Comma ml ancy- General of Upper California. " Monterey, June 24, 1835. " In conformity with the orders and instruc- tions issued by the Supreme Government of the Confederation respecting the location of a village in the valley of Sonoma, this cominandancy urges upon you that, according to the topo- graphical plan of the place, it be divided into quarters or squares, seeing that the streets and jil(i~af; be regulated so as to make a beginning. The inhal>itants are to be governed entirely by HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. 39 said plan. This govennnciit ami coiiuuandancy approves entire!}' of the lines designated by you for outlets — recognizing, as the property of the village and public lands and privileges, the boundaries of 1 Vt;iliini;i, Agna Culienta, Tlan- chero de Iluertica, l.ena ile Sur, Salvador, Vallejo, and La Vernica, on the north of the city of Sonoma, as the limits of its property, rights, and privileges — requesting that it shall be commenc-ed immediately around the hillj where the fortification is to be erected, to pro- tect the inhabitants from incursions of the savages and all others. In order that the build- ing lots granted by you, as the person charged with colonization, may be fairly portioned, you will divide each square (inanzana) into four parts, as well for the location of each as to in- terest persons in the planting of kitchen gar- dens, so that every one shall have a hundred yards, more or less, which the government deems suttioient; and farther, lots of land may be granted, of from one hundred and fifty to two hundred yards, in openings for outlets, for other descriptions of tillage, subject to the laws and regulations on the sidiject, in such manner that at all times the uiunicipality shall possess the legal title. This government and commandancj'-general otters yon thanks for your efforts in erecting this new city, which will secure the frontier of the republic, and is contident that you will make new efforts for the national entirety. "(iod and liberty. Juse Frot'KKOA. " I)i)n 1\[. (-1. A'am.k.io, Military (Jommandante and Director (if C'lildiii/CMtion im the Northern Fnmtier.'" Under these instructions Vallejo proceeded to lay out and found the pueblo, giving to it the Indian name of Sonoma. From this act virtu- ally dates the real Mexican occupancy of Sonoma (jounty under military and civil rule. There is but little of record during the balance of 1825, anil for 1826 the most important mention is that Vallejo, in conjunction with Chief Solano, went on an exj>edition to punish the rebellions Yolos. And right here it is in place to record the fact that this Chief Solano seems to have been a ruler among the Indian tribes in every direction. General Vallejo's language to us was, " Solano was a king among the Indians. All the tribes of Solano, Napa and Sonoma were under tribute to him." Vallejo made a treaty with Solano and seems to have found in him a valuable lieutenant in all his futui'e dealings with neighl)oring Indians. Now that a pueblo had been established at Sonoma with Vallejo as commandante of this northern district, it had become an important factor in the Territorial government of California. Vallejo was then in the full vigor of young life, tired with the ambi- tion of those who believed that to them belonged a liberal share of the management and rule in Territorial government, and his somewhat isolated position, which necessitated his exercise, at times, of almost autocratic power, placed him in a position to be courted by those even in higher authority. That he should use his power for self-aggrandizement, within certain limits, was but natural. With his complicity in the revolutions and counter revolutions that in rapid succession were making and deposing California governors, forms no part of the scope of this history, and we shall only follow his acts in their Ijearings upon the future of Sonoma County. With Vallejo there seems to have been two dominant ideas, and both had founda- tion in good, practical sense. The tirst was that the Indians had to be subjected to a strong hand, and when so subjected, they were to l)e the subjects of protection and justice. The second was that the greatest danger to continued ]\Iexiean supremacy in California was from the eastward. While there may have been a degree of selfishness and jealousy to inspire it, he was none the less correct in his judgment that the Sutter establishment at New Helvetia was a center around which clustered dangers imt properly appreciated by the (Jalifornia govern- ment at IVIouterey. While he failed to arouse the authorities to the magnitude of the danger, he at least discharged his duty as an (illicer of UlsToUy of liONOMA aoUNTY. that government. Tlie triitli was tliat Sutter, after lie transfen-ed to Jlelvetia the armament of Ross was becoming a "power behind the tlirone greater tiian the throne itself," and Vallejo could not be blind to the fact that it was liable to prove a "Trojan horse with belly full of armed destruction '' to the future rule of Mexico in California. In the waning days of the rule of Micheltorena, Sutter had been clothed with power which almost rendered him potentate of the Sacramento Valley, and as his establishment was the iirst to be reached by immigration from the east, that year by year was increasing in volume, he did not fail to improve his opportunity to add to the strength of his surroundings. Although somewhat out of chronological order it is in place to follow the mission of San Francisco Solano to its end. Bancroft says: " Father Fortuni served at San Francisco Solano until 1833, when liis place was taken by the Za- cuteean, Josi- de Jesus Maria Gutierrez, who in turn changed places in March, 183i, with Pa- lire Lorenzo Qiiijas of San Francisco. Quijas remained in charge of ex-mission and pueblo as acting curate throughout the decade, but resided for the most part at San Rafael. Tiiough the neophyte population, as indicated by the reports, decreased from 7*50 to (550 in 1834 and 550 in 1835, yet there was a gain in live-stock and but a slight falling off in crops; and the establish- ment must be regarded as having Honrished down to the date of secularization, being one of the ^tiw missiolis in California which reached tlieir iiighest population in the final decade, though this was natural enough in a new and frontier mission. Mariano C Vallejo was made commissionado in 1834, and in 1835-'6, with Antonio Ortega as majordomo, completed the secularization. Movable property was distribu- ted to the Indians, who were made entirely free, many of them retiring to their old ranche- rias. A little later, however, in consequence ot troubles with hostile gentiles, the ex-neophytes seem to have restored their live-stock to the care of Ceneral Vallejo, who iii^od th(^ property of the ex-mission for their benefit and protec- tion, and for the general development of the northern settlement. The General claimed that this was a legitimate use of the estate: and he would have established a new mission in the north if the padres wouhl have aiiled him. Doubtless his policy was a wise one, even if his position as guardian of the Indians in charge of their private property jiut by them in his care was not recognized b^' the laws. Moreover, there was a gain rather than a loss in live-stock. Thus the mission community haj no real exist- ence after 183)), though Pablo Ayula and Sal- vador Vallejo were nominally made administra- tors. The visitador made no visits in 1839, and apparently none were made in 1840. I suppose there may have been 100 of the ox-neophytes living at Sonoma at the end of the decade, with perhaps 500 more in the I'cgion not relajised into barbarism."' And here ends the career of the mission San Francisco Solano. If its san- guine founder, Padre Altimira, could revisit it, and the old San Francisco mission tliat he thought was •• on its last legs " he wouhl learn how fallible is human judgment. Sonoma was now a pueblo and (Tcneral M. G. Vallejo, ascommandante of the northern district, the most conspicuous personage in this latitude until the end of Mexican i-ule. As such it is in place to introduce him more fully to the reader. According to Bancroft "he was the son of the ' Sargento distinguido " Jgnacio ^'al- lejo and of .\[aria Antonia l^ugo, being, on the paternal side at least, of pure Spanish blood, and being entitled by the old rules to prefix the 'Don" to his name. In childhood he had been * the associate of Alvarado and Castro at Monte- rey, and his educational advantages, of which he made good use, were substantially the same as theirs. Unlike his companions, he chose a military career, entering the Monterey company in 1823 as a cadet, and being promoted to be alferez of the San Francisco company in 1827. He served as habilitado and as conimandante of both coni|>anies, and took part in several cam- paigns against Indians, besides acting as fiscal or HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. defensor in various military trials. In 1830 he was elected to the depntacion, and took a promi- nent part in the opposition of that body to Vic- toria. In 1832 he married Francisca l^enicia. daughter of Joquin C/arrillo, and in 1834 was elected dipntado snjdente to Congress, lie was a favorite of Figueroa, who gave him large tracts of land north of the bay, choosing him as com- niissionado to secularize San Francisco Solano, to found the town of Sonoma, and to command the frontier del norte. In his new position Val- lejo was doubtless the most independent man in California. His record was a good one, and both in ability and experience he was probal)l3' better fitted to take the position as command- ante general than any other Californian." This latter position was conferred upon Yallejo by Alvarado, who by a turn of the revolutionary wheel had become governor, (xeneral Vallejo was unquestionably the right man in the right place when he was placed in control at Sonoma after the secularization of the mission San Francisco Solano. As a military man he would not brook any insubordination to his will or commands, but in dealing with the Indians he seems to have pursued a policy wise and just beyond anything ever before attempted in Cali- fornia. In the Indian Chief Solano he saw the ready means to acquire easy control of all other Indians occupying a wide sweep of country. In making Solano his friend and coadjutor in keep- ing distant tribes in respectful submission, he seems not to have compromised himself in any manner so as not to hold Solano himself subject to control and accountability. Having been speaking of the turbulence of southern Indians for the years from 1836 to 1840 Mr. Bancroft says: "Turning to the northern frontier we find a diH'erent state of things. Here there was no semblance of Apache i-aids, no sacking of ranches, no loss of civilized life, and little col- lision between gentile and ('hristian natives. The northern Indians were more numerous than in the San Diego region, and many of the tribes were brave, warlike, and often hostile; but there was a comparatively strong force at Sonoma to keep them in check, and General Vallejo's Indian policy must be regarded as e.xcellent and effective when compared with any other policy ever followed in California. True, his wealth, his untrammelled power, anil other circumstances contributed much to his success; and he could by no means have done as well if placed in command at San Diego; yet he must be accredited besides with having managed wisely. Closely allied with Solano, the Suisnn chieftain, having always — except when asked to render some distasteful military service to his political associates in the south — at his com- mand a goodly numl)er of soldiers and citizens, made treaties with the gentile tribes, insisted on their being liberally and justly treated when at peace, and punished them severely for any manifestation of hostility. Doubtless the In- dians were wronged often enough in individual cases by Yallejo's subordinates; some of whom, and notably his brother Salvador, were with dilKculty controlled; but such reports have been greatly exaggerated, and acts of glaring injustice were comparatively' rare. " The Cainameros, or the Indians of Cainama, in the region toward Santa Rosa, had been for some years friendly, but for their services in returning stolen horses they got themselves into trouble with the Satiyomis, or Sotoyomes, gen- erally known as the Guapos, or braves, who in the sj)ring of 1836, in a sudden attack, killed twenty-two of their number and wounded fifty. Yallejo, on appeal of the chiefs, promised to avenge their wrongs, and started April 1st with fifty soldiers and one hundred Imlians besides the Cainamero force. A battle was fought on the 4th of April, and the Guapos, who had taken a strong j)Osition in the hills ot the Geyser region, were routed and driven back to their ranches, where most of them were killed. The expedi- tion was back at Sonoma on the 7th without having lost a man, killed or wounded. On June 7th Yallejo conchuled a treaty of peace and alliance with the chiefs of seven tribes — the Indians of Yoloytoy, (iuilitoy, Ansatoy, Ligna- ytoy, Aclutoy, Chnmptoy and the Guaiios, who 4-2 ItlSTORT OF SONOMA COUNT T. had voluntarily come to Sonoma for that pur- pose. Tlie treaty provided tliat tiiere sliould l)e friendsliip between tlie trii)es and tlie garrison, that the Cainauieros and Guapos should live at peace and respect each otiier's territory; that tlie Indians shonid give np all fngitive Cluijstians at the request of the commandante, and that they should not hurn the fields. It does not appear that Vallejo in return promised anything more definite than friendship. Twenty days later the compact was approved by Governor Chico. A year later, in June, 1837, Zampay, one of the chieftains of the Yoloytoy — town and rancheria of the Yoloy, perhaps meaning of the 'tnles,' and which gave the name to Yolo County — became troublesome, committing many outi-ages and trying to arouse the Sotoyomes again. The head chief of the tribe, however, named Moti, offered to aid in his capture, whicli was effect'ed by the combined forces of Solano and Salvador Yallejo. Zampay and some of his companions were held at first as captives at Sonoma, but after some years the chief, who had been a terror of the whole country, liecame a peiiceful citizen and industrious farmer."' "In January, 1838, Tobias, chief of the Gnilicos, and one of his men were brought to Sonoma and tried for the murder of two Indian fishermen. In March some of the gentile allied tribes attacked the Moquelumnes, recovered a tew stolen horses and brought them to Soijoma, wliere a grand feast was held for a week to cele- brate their good deeds. In August fifty Indian horse-thieves crossed the Sacrainento and ap- peared at Suseol with a band of tame horses, their aim being to stampede the horses at Sonoma. Thirty-four were killed in a Lattle with Vallejo's men, and the rest surrendered, the chief being shot at Sonoma for his crimes. On October 6, Vallejo issued a printed circular, in which he announced that Solano had grossly abused his power and the trust placed in him, and broken sacred compacts made with the Indian tribes by consenting to tlie seizure and sale of children. Vallejo indignantly denied the rumor that these outrages had been com- mitted with his consent, declaring that Solano had been arrested, and that a force had been sent out to restore all the children to their parents." \"al]ejo's statement in regard to this back-sliding of Chief Solano is that evil-dis- posed persons have plyed him with liquor until he was so dazed as not to be master of his actions, and that after being sobered up in the guard-house he was both ashamed and penitent. In this year, 1838, there came a terrible pestilence, the small-pox, which made sad havoc among the Indians. It is said that a Corporal named Ygnacio lliramontes contracted the dis- ease at Fort Koss and i-eturning to Sonoma the disease was soon broadcast among the Indians. General Vallejo is our authority that the In- dians died by the thousands. He thinks that not less than 75,000 died in the territory north of the bay and west of the Sacramento River. In some cases it almost blotted tribes out of ex- istence. The Indian panacea for all ills was resort to the sweat-house, supplemented by a plunge in cold water. Such being their remedy, it may well be believed that the small-pox left desolation in its track. Mr. John TValker, of Sebastopol, states that when he reached the Yount rancho, iXapa County, in 18-1(5, Mr. Yount pointed out to him an Indian girl, the sole survivor of her tribe after the small- pox had run its course. Yount stated that lie visited the rancheria and that dead Indians were lying everywhere, and the only living being was the girl referred to, she, an infant, was cuddled in an Indian/ basket. At Mr. Walker's ranch is a very aged Indian, and through an interpreter he recently informed us that during the prevalance of the small-pox his people at Sebastopol for a long time died at the rate of fi'om ten to twenty a day. During the present year (1888), while excavating earth with which to grade a road near Sebastopol a perfect charnel of human bones was found, doubtless where the small-pox victims of 1838 were buried. As stated elsewhere, that pesti- lence paved the way for peaceable occupation of this territory liv immigrants. There were not HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. 43 enough Indians left to offer any serious resist- ance to tlie free occupancy of their former liunting grounds by civilized !naii. In 1830, as an evidence that colonization was advancing northward, it is recorded that twenty- five families had cast their lot in the northern frontier. Some of these families, doubtless, came with the Hijar-Padres colony that came from Mexico in 1834. Many of those colonists visited Sonoma — then San Francisco Solano — but owing to political complications Hijar was looked upon witJi suspicion, and his scheme of founding a colony came to nanglit. It is said that a few of his people remained north of the bay, but most of them returned south to the older settlements. We find I'ecord of a young Irishman named John T. Reed locating in Santa liosa Township, near the pi-esent place of Robert Crane, in 1837, but who was driven out l)y the Indians. And also the location near Santa Rosa, in 1838, of Senora Maria Ygnacia Lopez de ("arillo. Of the first attempt to found a settlement at, or near Santa Rosa, there is evidence that it pruved futile, and yet we find little of authentic record as to the reasons why the enterprise was abandoned, other than that settlers did not feel secure in so advanced a ]iosition among untutored savages. We find, also, an accredited rumor that the mission San Francisco Solano was destroyed by the Indians a few years after it was founded. This story must be founded on uncertain tradition, for we have tbund no authentic record of such an occurrence. We have thus far, up to 1840, found little ditliculty in tracing the lines of reliable history. But the nearer we get to the final end which culminated in American occupancy the more we are befogged and in doubt of the di\ idirig line between facts and fiction. What tin intelligent reader will most want to kuoiv will be as to the actual settlement and occupancy of' Sonoma County by Californians prior to the raising of the Bear Hag at Sonoma. If we take as our guide the various Spanish grants and the dates of their reputed occupancy there was but little ot the arable laud of the county that was not already the habitation of civilized man; and yet we find but little tangible evidence of such advanced conditions of civilization. Vallejo had, with great enterprise and labor, reai'ed an establishment on the Petaluma grant that even yet stands as a monument to his energy and enterprise. The Corrillos had made lasting improvements at Santa Rosa and Sebasto])ol. Mark West had established himself at the creek that bore his name, and had erected substantial adobe buildings. Henry D. Fitch had reared buildings of permanency on Russian River, near the jjresent site of Ilealdsburg; Captain Stephen Smith had established a residence and mill at Bodega, and Jasper Ofurrell had made a good show of permanent occupancy at his place in the red woods. Fort Ross had now passed into the hands of William Eennitz, and was an establishment of comparative ancient date. Outside of the evidence of occupancy thus enumerated, except those of Sonoma \a\- ley, there wei-e only a few, and they of so transi- tory and ephemeral in character as almost to have jiassed from the memory of our pioneer American inhabitants. For a time Sonoma had been I'egarded as an important frontier mil- itary station by the California government, and seems to have received some fostering care and assistance, but dniing later years the govern- ment seems to have acted on the princii)le that, as Vallejo had all the glor^' of defending the frontier, he could do it at his own expense, lie seems to have, in time, tired of this expensive luxury. Bancroft says: "The ])residial com- pany in 1841-'43, and probably down to its dis- bandment by Vallejo in 1844, had between forty and fifty men under the command of Lieut. Jose Antonio Pico; and there were besides nearly sixty men lit for militia duty, to say nothing of an incidental mention by the alcalde of 100 citizens in his jurisdiction. ('aptain Salvador Vallejo was commandante of the post and no civil authority was recognized down to the end of 1843, from which time municipal affairs were directed l)y two alcaldes, Jacob P. Leese and Jose de la Rosa, holding successively 44 HISTORY OF SONOMA COVNTT t.lie first alcaldia." Tims, it will be seen, tliat there was virtually only two years of civil rule here previous to the Bear Flag revolution. AVliile "N'allejo still had an armament embracing nine cannon of small caliber, and, perhaps, two hundred muskets, yet the whole military estab- lishment seems to have been in a condition of " innocuous desuetude." The only notable event of local importance in 1845 was a raid, seem- ingly made by Sonoma rancheros. upon the Ross Indians to secure laborers. Several In- dians were killed and loU were eaptint.d. William Hennitz complained of outrages coni- •mitted on the Indians at his rauclio. That such matters were made the subject of court investigation shows that civil authority was l)e- ginning to assert itself. The leading offenders in this last instance of Indian mention under Mexican rule, were Antonio Castro and Rafael fxarcia. AVe have now reached the beginning of tlie end of ^Vfexifan rule, the conclusion of which will be found in the next chapter. HltiTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. Cn AFTER VI. Mexican kii.k ix Cafjimibma xeakink its knu — tiik Califuknia lkadkrs (,iuakkei,in(. amcuMt TUKJ[SEI.\ES — WAK EXl-Et TEU BETWEEN THE UnITEU StATES AXU MeXICO AMERICANS IN CaLI- KORNIA IN a riflCEISIl rOSITION WHAT L\ K'KIN WAS EXPECTED TO HO -WHAT P'uMoNT DID DO Bancroft's instructions to Commodore Sloat — Vallejo — Sutter — Fremont and Gilles- riE TIIEIK MEETING AND THE MIDXIUII r ATTACK RY IxDIANS FrEMoXt's RETURN DOWN THE Sacramento Valley — the Americans naturally (;atiierei) around hiji — the settlers ripe FOR action THEY CAPTURE A BAND OF HORSES BELON(;IX- sion to do anything in the direction of encour- aging the raising of the standard of revolt in California. Fremont's conduct seems to have been to him a complete enigma. Larkin's in- structions were to feel the pulse of Californians HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. as well as Americans in reference to jieaceable annexatiun to the United States, and any demon- stration on the part of the Americans in the direction of violence and force could bnt com- plicate and render more ditticnlt his task. lie had sagacity enough to understand this, and seems to have directed all his energies in the direction of a j)eaceal)le solution of the problem he was to assist in working out. It must be iiorne in mind that Tliomas O. Larkin had long been a resident merchant in California and that his intimate connection and association with the leading men of California, both natives and foreigners, peculiarly fitted him for this labor of paving the way for peaceable annexation of California to the United States, l^ut that he was not taken into all the secret councils of the nation is manifest from the instructions of Hon. George Bancroft, the then secretary of war un- der President Polk, under date of June 24, 1845, nearly a year before war was declared between the United States and Mexico. The secretary's instructions to Commodore Sloat were: " If you ascertain that Mexico has declared war against the United States, yon will at once possess yourself of the port of San Francisco, and occupy such other ports as your force may permit. You will be careful to preserve, if possilile, the most friendly relations with the inhabitants, and encourage them to adopt a course of neutrality." On the 13th of May, 1846, war was declared. On that very day Secretary Uancroft again in- structed Commodore Sloat to cari-y out his first orders "with energy and promptitude." Only two days later we find Secretary Bancroft writ- ing the following instructions to Commodore Sloat: " A connection between California and Mexico is supposed scarcely to exist. You will, as opportunity offers, conciliate the confidence of the people of California. Yon will conduct yourself in such a manner as will render your occupation t)f the country a benefit," etc. In a dispatch dated dune 8, 1840, the Aincriran Secretary conies out a little plainer. Ho says: " If California separates herself from our enemy, the Central Government of Mexico, and estab- lishes a government of its own under the auspices of the American Hag, you will take such meas- ures as will best promote the attachment of the people of California to the United States. Von will bear in mind that this country desires to find in California a friend; to be connected with it by near ties; to hold possession of it," etc. On July 12 he speaks still plainer: "The ob- ject t>f the United States has reference to ulti- mate ])eace, and if at that peace the basis of i\\Q '• utl puasiiJetis' shall be adopted, the (iov- ernment expects to be in possession of Califor- nia." While the instructions to Larkin seem to have been of an entirely pacific and diplomatic character, it is quite evident that the authori- ties at Washington did not intend to allow the formalities of red tape to stand in the way of the acquisition of California. There were two men on the northern frontiei-, both occupying commanding positions, and each destined to fill a conspicuous place in the his- tory of those stirring times. One was General M. G. Vallejo, and the other Captain John A. Sutter. At this time, when California was Hearing her final struggle with manifest destiny, it is important to know just how and whei'e they stood. Much has been said and written on the subject, so much that it has become con- fusing and difficult to always determine where history ends and fiction begins. Vallejo and Sutter both were officers of the California gov- ernment and as such owed good faith and allegiance to their country. We find nothing to warrant the conclusion that either proved recreant to their trust. Vallejo evidently had a very sti-ong premoni- tion that California had reached the beginning of the end. So believing, he evidently had lit- tle heart or concern about the personal quarrels of Pico, Castro and other factious would-be leaders of California. When called into council on tiie alarming condition of the tiines, he was free to express his opinions, and so far as reliable evi- dence goes, it was always to the (jfiect that if HISTORY OF SONOJIA COUNTY. it eaine to the worst and a change of government had to be made, that it was to the United States that California could look for the strongest arm of jirotection and speedy development of lier latent resources. While those were his senti- ments expressed in council with his country- men, he in no wise seems to ha\e abandoned hope that C'alif(.)rnia might yet be safely steered through her dangers. This is evidenced by two circumstances. Governor Pico addressed a let- ter to Valiejo, probably in April, in which he eluded him somewhat sharply for his apparent adhesion to Castro, the every act of whom Pico seemed to regard as dangerous usurpation of military' power, the ultimate aim of which was the overthrow of the civil government. Vailejo's reply to Pico was both temperate and patriotic. He did not liesitate to admonish Pico that he was allowing his jealousy to befog his better judgment — that Castro was making an etfort to properly face a real danger, and he warned Pico that the time had come when unity of action was imperative if California would continue to exist in her present form. He pointed out to the Governor the folly of expecting a General in the face of a threatened danger, to wait for the transmission of orders such a long distance as intervened between Los Angeles and Monterey. These wise and temperate counsels of Valiejo seem to have been wasted upon Pico, for he appears to have gone forward in his endeavor to marshal a sufficient force to march to Monterey and overthrow Castro. The second circum- stance which shows that Yallejo had not yet lost all hope is the fact that early in June Cas- tro visited Sonoma on his mission uf gathering war supplies, and secured a large number of horses. Of these horses more will be said a little further on. Of what occurred between Yallejo and Castro at that time there seezns to be little of record. Intelligent reflection draws two conclusions somewhat difficult to harmonize. That a matter of 170 horses was furnished by Valiejo to Castro would clearly indicate that the former was willing to contribute liberally otward the common defense, for Castro lacked the power, if he had the will, to exact from Valiejo forced contributions. The next ques- tion to harmonize with a cheerful desire of Valiejo to heartily second Castro's seem i no- patriotic eflbrts is, why was it that Sonoma with an armament of nine cannons of various caliber, and at least two hundred muskets, was not brought into requisitiuii in a time of such great 2ierii; It was to the east and north that Castro was looking for lurking danger, and if that General and Valiejo were working together in perfect accord it seems little short of aniaziuir that Sonoma was left to repose in sleepy security without a cannon shotted or a musket in hand or sentinel to signal the alarm of an approach- ing foe. Of Captain John A. Sutter little need be said. Being a citizen by naturalization, his position was ditferent froni that of Valiejo. It is trne he was holding position under the Cali- fornia government, but his attachment to the country of his adoption never seems to have outweighed his own personal objects and aims in busii.ess. But even he is not chargeable with having been guilty of gross perfidy to the laud that had given him wealth and honor. This is evidenced by the two-fold fact that he took pains to warn the government at Monterey that a man named Gillespie, who had been at Monterey and was then following Fremont north, was a secret emissary of the United States. At the same time, and with possibly a less patriotic motive, he again called the atten- tion of the California government to the im- portance of strengthening itself in the Sacramento Valley, and for that purpose oft'ered to sell his establishment at New Helvetia. This, on his part, was business, simon pure, and should not be allowel to counterbalance too much of the good deeds and kind offices of that historic pioneer to the weary, travel-worn American immigrants, so many of whom en- joyed his benefactions. Sutter was a man of pretty good common sense and was not blind to the fact that California was liable to be in an eruptive state atany moment: and. like Mic.iw- HISTORT OF SONOilA COUNTY. ber, '> was just waiting tor something to turn up."' It was now in early May of 1846, and Gen- eral Fremont, with his sixty explorers, was well on his way northward, having pitched camp on the shores of Klamath Lake. General Castro, doubtless elated at having achieved a bloodless victory in taking the abandoned fort of F'remont on Gabilan I'eak, was now seeking new fields of glory. Pio Pico was yet in the south in- tent upon marshaling a sufficient force to war- rant him in visiting the northern end of the Territory of which he was governor. Consul Larkin was inditing confidential epistles to all such as to whom he thontrlit could be entrusted the secret and work of peaceable annexation of California to the United States. General il. G. Vallejo was in quiet repose at Sonoma, appar- ently having converted his sword into a plow- share, his spear into a jiruning hook, and his martial field-glasses into a medium through which to watch his herds and flocks upon a thousand hills. Captain John A. Sutter was looking after his fields of waving grain at Hawk Farm, doubtless anticipating a paying harvest, for the incoming immigration expected from over the mountains was variously estimated at from 1,000 to 5,000 souls. The hills and val- leys of this genial clime were doubtless clad in verdure and flowers; and yet the very air was oppi'essive with the forecast of revolution and sanguinary strife. A new Richmond, with closed visor, had now appeared upon the field. He anewered to the plain name of Archibald II. Gillespie, amd had reached Monterey the 17th of April. Larkin had already received a letter from James Bu- chanan, the then Secretary of State, informing him that, " Lieutenant Archibald II. Gillespie, of the marine corps, will immediately proceed to Monterey, and will probably reach you before this dispatch. He is a gentleman in whom the President reposes entire confidence. He has seen these instructions, and will co-operate as a confidential agent with you in carrying them into execution."' Gillespie was a month behind time in reaching Monterey in consequence of unavoidable delays in Mexico. That his dis- patches to Larkin were of a very important and secret character is evidenced by the fact that lest they might fall into Mexican hands, Gillespie had memorized them and then de- stroyed the paper upon which they were written. On reaching Monterey he was plain Mr. Gilles- pie, an American merchant, traveling for the benefit of his health. He was also the bearer of a letter of introduction from Hon. Thonjas H. Benton to his son-in-law. General Fremont, as well as a package of private letters from the same distinguished statesman to the " Path- finder." After lingering a little at Monterey, doubtless to give color to his assumed character, Lieutenant Gillespie one night embarked for New Helvetia, and arriving there at once began to arrange for an escort to accompany him on the trail of Fi-emont. It was then, as already stated, that Captain Sutter conveyed to the au- thorities at Monterey his suspicion that Gilles- pie was a secret emissary of the United States Government. Lieutenant Gillespie made all haste northward. Historian Bancroft gives the following graphic account of this journey and the tragic occurrences attending it: "This officer, of whose arrival I will have more to say presently, had reached Sutter's April 28th, and Lassen's the 1st of May. From that point, with only five companions, Lassen, Xeal, Sigler, Stepp and a negro servant named Ben, he started May 2d, on Fremont's trail. On the 7th two men were sent in advance, and the others encamped at the outlet of Klamath Lake, unable to ford the river, and having nothing to eat for forty hours. On the morning of the Oth a party of Indians made their appearance, who, with great apparent kindness, gave the travelers a fresli salmon for food, and ferried them ovei- the water in canoes. After a day's journey of some thirty miles, (iillespie met Fremont at sunset, at a stream named from the events of that night. Ambuscade Creek. The sixteen tired travelers retired early after the two parties were united on May 9th, and were soon sleep- UrsTDRT OF SONOMA COUNTY. iiig souiully- Freiuoiit sitting up later than the rest to read his dispatches and letters from liome. The Indians were deemed friendly, and no watch was kept. Just before midnight the cam]) was attacked by savages, Basil Lajeunesse and a Delaware were killed as they slept, by Itlows from axes. The sound of these blows aroused Carson and Owens, who gave the alarm; when the Indians fled, after killing with their arrows a Delaware named Crane, and leaving (lead a chief of their number, who proved to be the very man from whom Gillespie had that morning been furnislied with food and aid further south. Next morning they started northward to join the main body, burying the bodies of their slain comrades on the way. The whole party started on the lltli down the east- ern side of the lake, wreaking terrible vengeance on the innocent natives along the route, if we may credit the statement of Kit Carson, who played a leading part in the butcheries. They reached Lassen's rancho on their return the 24th, and a few days later moved their camp down to the Buttes." This awakens the reflection that the greatest of human events are subject to the modifying influence of currents and cross-currents; for had the Indians who made that midnight attack been successful in their evident design to massacre all in that unguarded camp, it is more than probable that the bear flag revolution would never have formed a chapter of Sonoma County history. Mr. Bancroft expresses the opinion that Gillespie's meeting with Fremont had nothing to do with the latter's return north- ward — that '' the Captain had nearly deter- mined, on account of the difiiculty of crossing the mountains into Oregon on account of the snow,"' to retrace his steps. We dissent from this view of the subject. If Gillespie was only the bearer of instructions to Fremont couched in the same language of diplomacy as that used by Secretary Buchanan in imparting to Larkin the duties devolved u])on him by the President, then the continued presence of Fremont could have served no good end. In truth, his con- tinued presence would be detrimental to the very object Larkin was expected to achieve. Gillespie must have had full knowledge of what Fremont had done at Gabilon Peak, and as he was the duly accredited secret agent of the United States government it is but reasonable to suppose that he would have at least some ad- visory influence with Fremont. Then, again, Fremont and Larkin were occupying entirely difterent positions, and it is quite probable that while the latter was expected only to use the weapons of diplomacy, the former may have been accorded discretionary power, if circum- stances seemed to warrant, to use more weighty arguments. But outside of all this it must be remembered that Gillespie had placed in Fre- mont's hands letters from Hon. Thomas II. Benton. The latter was just as near to the war-making power as was James Buchanan, antl he was under no trammel to measure his words with red tape. While he was not in a position to give Fremont either instructions or orders, it is fair to presume that he would intimate to the husband of his favorite daughter the true con- dition of affairs and impress upon him the im- portance of holding himself in readiness to improve any opportunities, such as were liable to suddenly arise, for preferment and position. To believe that Fremont had an}' serious in- tention of leaving California just at a time when he mnst have known that right here and then he was upon the very eve of the fruition of Ben- ton's most ardent expectation, would be to im- pute to him a lack of regard for name and fame singularly at variance with reputed character of either himself or Mr. Benton. But we now put behind us matters specula tive and enter upon the domain of thrilling facts. During Fremont's absence north there were all kinds of wild rumors afloat, and they lost nothing as they passed from mouth to mouth. Castro's war preparations had been magnifled into an expressed purpose on his part to drive the American settlers out of the coun- try. It was rumored and so believed, that the Indians of the Sacramento Valley were being BISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. incited tu an iiprisiiifr and tliat as soon as the grain fields were far enough advanced to be conihustible, llie torch woiikl be applied. Cap- tain Sutter seems to have given credence to these stories, tor he was on an active Indian campaign against some of tlie lawless tribes. Fremont had moved camp from the IJuttes to Rear Iliver, near where Nicholas now stands. It was but natural that his camp should become tile head centre, around which the hopes and ex- pectations of his fellow-countrymen should clus- ter. The settlers knew that Gillespie was act- ing upon some authority of the United States government, and his swift haste northward af- ter Fremont, and the latter's e(j^ually speedy re- turn, had to them a significance that they were close to exciting times. There is nothing of re- cord to show that General Fremont either coun- selled action, or quiet, on the part of American settlers. He seems to have been a passive lis- tener to the recital of their plans and grievances, but somehow, the most unlettered of those frontiersmen, gathered from his very silence, assent that he would stand between tliem and harm. The people were ripe for revolution and the favored chance to strike the first blow op- portunely came. As has already been stated, General Castro's visit to General Vallejo in the first week of June resulted in his securing 170 horses. Having achieved this much toward placing himself up- on a stable war footing, Castro returned by boat to Yerba Buena, entrusting the horses to the care and management of his private secretary, Francisco Arce, Lieutenant Jose Alaria Alviso, and an escort of eight men for safe conduct to Santa Clara. Leaving Sonoma with the l>and of horses, they reached what is now Knight's Landing, on the Sacramento Iliver, where a crossing was effected, and on June 8tli they reached Sutter's Fort. It is alleged that Arce told some one on his I'oute that the horses were for Castro, and to he used in driving the Amer- ican settlers out; but this was probably idle rumor. But whether true or not, it served to in- tensify the excitement, which was now at about white heat. On the afternoon of June 9tii, eleven or twelve Americans started on the trail of Arce and Alviso and their band of horses. These men are said to have started from the neighborhood of Fremont's camp, and a man named Ilensley is the authority that they were sent by Fremont; but this lacks the evidence that should back a historic fact. In j)assing New Helvetia, this company was increased by two new recruits. Ezekiel Merritt commanded the expedition. Of its members, Sempel, Henry L. Ford and Granville V. Swift, afterward for long years a resident of Sonoma County, are the only names known with certainty. Cross- ing the American River late iu the evening, they made their first stop at the rancho of Allen Montgomery, who not only furnished them a supper, but he, with another man, accompanied them to lend a hand at striking this first blow of revolution. Arce and Alviso had stopped for the night at the rancho of Murphy, using his corral for their horses. Merritt and his men camped within three miles of the place, and at early dawn, on the morning of the ever memor- able lOtli of June, 184:6, swooped down upon the unsuspecting Arce and Alviso, and in a trice had them and their men disarmed. That Merritt and his men were not heartless desper- adoes is apparant from the fact that they allowed the vanquished to retain each a horse, and recog- nized Alviso's claim to a few more as private property; after which their arms were restored to them and they were made the bearers of a message to Castro, that if he wanted his horses he could come after them. Arce also reported to Castro that the insurgents had declared their purpose to take Sonoma. This declaration of their intent was a subject of official announce- ment at Monterey two days before Sonoma was captured, wliicli proves that Arce and Alviso had not falsely reported the utterance of Merritt and his followers. The revolutionists, with their band of horses, were back to the neighborhood of Fremont's camp within forty-eight hours af- ter they set out on their mission. While there seems to have been no ]>reconcerted action on HISTonr (IF .sONfiMA COUNTY. the part u\' tlie Aniuricau settlers in this high- handed act, tliey all seemed to have assented to the fact tliat tlie bridges had been burned behind them, and all they had to do now was to "light it out on that line if it took them all summer." It was the lltli of June that Merritt and his followers returned with Castro's horses. They seem to have acted on the principle of '• making hay while the sun shines," for on that afternoon the company was increased to twenty men, still led by lizekiel ilerritt, who took their departure in the direction of Sonoma. That night they reached Gordon's on Cache Creek where they halted for refreshments, and then made a night march to Napa Valley, which they reached on the forenoon of June 12th. In Napa Valley they remained two days, evidently for the pur- pose of strengthening their force; which they did by the enrollment of twelve or thirteen additional men. The force now numbered either thirty-two or thirty-three, who, so far as is now ascertainable, i-esponded to the following names: Ezekiel Merritt, AVilliam B. Ide, John Grigsby, Robert Semple, II. L. Ford, William Todd, William Fullon, William Knight, Will- iam Ilargrave, Sam Kelsey, G. F. Swift, Sam Gibson, W. W. Scott, Benj. Dewell, Thomas Cowie, William B. Elliott, Thomas Knight, Horace Sanders, Henry Booker, Dav. Hudson, John Sears, and most of the following: J. II. Kelly, C. C. Griffith, Harvey Porterfield, John Scott, Ira Stebbins, Marion Wise, Ferguson, I'eter Storm, Pat. McChristian, Bartlett Vines, Fowler, Jolin Gibbs, Andrew Kelsey, and Benj- amin Kelsey. It was about midnight of Satur- day the 13tli of June that this motley crowd of frontiersmen took to saddle and proceeded across the hills intervening between Napa Valley and the Pueblo of Sonoma. J ust at break of day they reached that fortified stronghold of north- ern California, and neither baying of watch- dog nor cackling of goose ai'oused the sleeping Sonomans to a sense of impending danger. Every reader will e.xpect to hear, in detail, ex- actly wh;it transpired on that memorable occa- sion. Hubert Howe Bancroft has in his pos- session many of the original documents con- nected with that event, or authenticated copies. He is certainly in a position to give as near the absolute facts in connection therewith as will ever be attaiiiable, as very many of the partici- pants in the capture of Sonoma are now dead. We have had from General Vallejo's own lips a statement of the individual part he played in the event, and it is substantially the same as recited by Mr. Bancroft. Believing that hist- orian Bancroft gives a true and reliable version of the whole occurrence we incorporate it here. It is as follows: '' At dayl)reak Vallejo was aroused by a noise, and on looking out saw that his house was sur- rounded by armed men. This state of things was sufficiently alarming in itself, and all the more so by reason of the uncouth and even fero- cious aspect of the strangers. Says Semple: Almost the whole party was dressed in leather hunting-shirts, many of them very greasy; tak- ing the whole party together, they were about as rough a looking set of men as one could well imagine. It is not to be wondered at that any one woiild feel some dread in falling into their hands. And Vallejo himself declares that there was l)y no means such a uniformit}- of dress as a greasy hunting-shirt for each man would imply. Vallejo's wife was even more alarmed than her husband, whom she begged to escape by a back door, but who deeming such a course undignified as well as impracticaljle, hastily dressed, ordered the front door opened, and met the intruders as they entered his sala, demanding who was their chief and what their business. Not much progress in explanation was made at first, though it soon became appar- ent that the Colonel, wdiile he was to consider himself a prisoner was not in danger of any per- sonal violence. Lieutenant-Colonel Prudon and Captain Salvador Vallejo entered the room a few- minutes later, attracted by the noise, or possibly were arrested at their houses and brought there; at any rate, they were put under arrest like the Colonel. Jacob P. Leese was sent for to serve niSTORT OP SONOMA COtTNTT. as interpreter, after whicli imitnal expliuiations progresised more favorably. •' Early in the ensuing negotiations between prisoners and filibusters, it became apparent that the latter had neither acknowledged leader nor regular plan of operations beyond the seizure of government projjerty and of the officers. Some were acting, as in the capture of Arce's horses, merely with a view to obtain arms, animals, and hostage — to bring about hostilities, and at the same time to deprive the foe of his resources; others believed themselves to have, undertaken a revolution, in which the steps to be immediately taken were a formal declaration of independence and the election of officers, Merritt l)eing regarded rather as a guide than captain. All seemed to agree, however, that they were acting under Fremont's orders, and this to the prisoners was the most assuring feat- ure in the case, ^'allejo had for some time favored the annexation of California to the United States. He had expected and often predicted a movement to that end. There is no foundation for the suspicion that the taking of Sonoma and his own capture were planned by himself, in collusion with the filibuster chiefs, with a view to evade responsibility; yet it is cer- tain that he had little if any objection to an en- forced arrest by officers of the United States as a means of escaping from the delicacy of his posi- tion as a Mexican officer. Accordingly, being assured that the insurgents were acting under Fremont, he submitted to arrest, gave up keys to public property, and entered upon negotia- tions with a view to obtain guarantees of protec- tion for non-combatants. "The guarantees sought were then drawn up in writing and signed by the respective parties. The originals of those documents are in my possession, and are given in a note." The following are the documents referred to by Mr. Bancroft: "Sonoma, June 14, 184G. "Be it known by these presents, that, having been surprised by a numerous armed force wiiich took me j)risoner,. witli the chief and offi- cers belonging to the garrison of this place that the said force took possession of, having found it absolutely defenseless, myself as well as the undersigned officers pledge our word of lienor that, being under the guarantees of prisoners of war, we will not take up arms for or against the said armed forces, from whlcli we have received the present intimation, and a signed writing which guarantees our lives, families, and prop- erty, and those of all the residents of this ju- risdiction, so long as we make no opposition. M. J. Valle,to, Victor Prudon, Sai.vadot; Yai.i.e.io.''' " We, the undersigned, have resolved to es- tablish a government of on (upon?) republican principles, in connection with others of our fellow-citizens, and having taken up arms to support it, we have taken three Mexican officers as prisoners, Gen. M. J. Vallejo, Lieut. -Col. Victor Prudon, and Capt. D. Salvador Vallejo. having formed and published to the world no regular plan of governi^ent, feel it our duty to say it is not our intention to take or injure any person who is not found in opposition to the cause, nor will we take or destroy the property of private indi\;iduals further than is necessary for our support. Ezekiel Merritt, R. Semple, William Fallox, Samiel Kelsay." Mr. Bancroft, continuing says: "It was natui-ally to be expected, under the circum- stances, that the arrested officers would be re- leased on parole. Such was evidently the view taken on both sides at first. Ford says there were some who favored such a course. Leese. who had the best opportunities for understand- ing the matter, and who gives a more detailed account than any other writer, tells us that such a decision was reached; and finally, the documents which I iiave presented, Nos. 1 and 2, being to all intents and purposes regular pa- role papers, leave no doubt u])on the subject. But ut)W difficulties arose, resjtectiiig some HISTORY OF .SONOMA COUNTY. phase of which there is contradictory testi- inony. "Thus far only a few of tlie insurgent leaders had entered, or at least remained in the house; and the negotiations liad in reality been con- ducted bj Semple and Leese very much in their own way. Ide testifies that Merritt, Semple and Wm. Knight, the latter accompanying the expedition merely as an interpreter, were the first to eTiter the house, while the rest waited outside; that presently hearing nothing, they became impatient, determined to choose a cap- tain, ami elected John (Trigsl)y, who thereupon went in; and after waiting what appeared an age, the men again lost patience and called upon the writer, Ide, to go and investigate the causes of delav. Now the discrepancies in testimony begin. Ide describes the slate of things which met his view as follows: 'The General's gen- erous spirits gave proof of his usual hospitality, as the richest wines and brandies sparkled in the glasses, and those who had thus uncere- moniously met soon became merry companions; more especially the merry visitors. There sat Dr. S., just modifying a long string of articles of capitulation. There sat ]V[erritt, his head fallen; there sat Knight, no longer able to in- terpret; and there sat the new-made captain, as mute as the seat he sat upon. The bottles had well-nigh vantpiished the captors!' Leese also states that the brandy was a potent factor in that morning's event; but aeconling to his ver- sion, it was on the company outside that its in- lluence was e.xerted, rendering them noisy and unmanageable, though an effort had been made by his advice to put the liquor out of reach. I do not, however, deem it at all likely that the leaders drank more than it was customary to drink in a Californian's parlor, or more than tliey could carry; but that some of the rough characters in the company became into.xicated we may well believe. "At any rate, disagreement ensued, the men refused entirely to ratify the capitulation made by their former leaders, insisting that the pris- oners must be sent to the Sacramento; some of them were inclined to be insubordinate and eager for plunder; while the lawless spirits were restrained from committing outrages by the eloquence of Semple and the voice of the ma- jority; yet the leaders could not agree. Cap- tain Grigsby declined to retain the leadership that had been conferred upon him. So William B. Ide was chosen in his stead, and the revolu- tionists immediately took possession of all pub- lic property, as well as of such horses and other private property as they needed, at the same time locking up all citizens that could be found. It would seem that the second of the documents I have presented was torn, and the third drawn up and signed at an early stage of the disagree- ments, after it became apparent that it might be best to send the prisoners to the Sacramento, the signatures showing that it could not have been later. Vallejo, though not encouraged at seeing that the leaders were not j)ermitted by their followers to keep their promises, was not very much displeased at being sent to New Helvetia. He was assured that the insurgents were acting by Fremont's orders; his own views were known to be favorable to the schemes of the United States; and he had no reason to doubt that on meeting Fremont he and his companions would at once be released on parole. "Before the departure of the prisoners and their escort a formal meeting of the revolution- ists was held. That Semple, secretary, made a speech counselling united action and modera- tion in the treatment of the natives, and that William B. Ide was chosen captain, is all that is known of this meeting, except what we may learn from Ide' snarrative. The leaders differed in their ideas, not only respecting the dispo- sition to be made of the prisoners, but about the chief object of the movement. Evidently there had been no definitely arranged plan of operations. Fremont bad succeeded in bring- ing about a state of open hostility without committing himself. Some of the men re- garded their movement as merely intended to provoke Castro to inake an attack on Fremont; or at least they dreaded the responsibility of IIIHTORY OF SONOMA CdUNfy. engaging in a regular revDJution, especially when it was learned that no one con Id produce any definite pi-omise from Fremont in black and wl'.ite to support such a movement. Others were in favor of an immediate declaration of independence. That such differences of opinion did exist as Ide states, is in itself by no means improbable; and it is confirmed to some extent by the fact that Grigsby did resign his leader- ship, and by the somewhat strange circumstance that three such prominent men as Grigsby, ]\Ierritt and Semple should have left Sonoma to accompany the prisoners. Ide writes that when Grigsby heard that no positive orders from Fremont could be produced, liis fears of doing wrong overcame his patriotism, and he inter- rupted the speaker by saying: ' (Tcntlemen, I have been deceived; I cannot go with you; I resign and back out of the scrape. I can take my family to the mountains as cheap as any of you' — and Dr. S. at that moment led liim into the house. Disorder and confusion prevailed. One swore he would not stay and guard the prisoners; another swore we would all have our throats cut; another called for fresh horses; and all were on the move, every man for himself, when the speaker [Ide] resumed liis efforts, raising his voice louder and more loud, as tlie men receded from the place, saying: ' We need no horses; saddle no horse for me; I can go to the Spaniards and make freemen of them. I will lay my bones here before I will take upon my- self the ignominy of commencing an honorable work and tlien flee like cowards, like thieves, when no enemy is in sight. In vain will you say yon had honorable motives. Who will be- lieve if? Flee this day, and the longest life cannot wear out your disgrace! Choose ye this day what you will be! We are robbers or we must becon<[uerors! ' and the speaker in despair turned his back on liis receding conqianions. With new hope they rallied around the despond- ing speaker, made him their commander, their cliief; and his next words commanded the taking of the fort." Subsequently " the three leaders of the party of the pi'imitive plan of ' neutral eonrpiest ' left us alone in our glory." I find no reason to doubt that this version, though somewhat highly colored, is in sub- stance accurate; that Merritt, having captured horses and prisoners, was content to rest on his laurels; that Grigsby was timid about assuming the responsibility of declaring independence without a positive assurance of Fremont's co- operation; that Semple, while in favor of inde- pen lence, preferred that Sacramento should be the center of operations, uidess — what Vallejo and Leese also favored — Fremont could be in- duced to establish his headquarters at Sonoma; or finally, that Ide and his associate influenced the majority to complete their revolutionary work and take no backward steps. I think, how- ever, that Ide and all the rest counted con- fidently on Fremont's support; and that Semple and Grigsby were by no means regarded as abandoning the cause when they left Sonoma. "It was about 11 a. m., on June 14th, when the three prisoners, accompanied by Leese us interpreter at their request and that of the captors — not himself a prisoner as has been generally stated — and guarded by Grigsby, Semple, Merritt, Ilargrave, Knight and four of five others, started on horses from Yallejo's herds for the Sacramento. It will be most convenient to follow them before proceeding to narrate later developments at Sonoma. Before starting, and on the way, Vallejo was often questioned by ('alifornians as to the situation of afiairs; but could only counsel them to i-emain quiet, announcing that he would probably return within four or live days. His idea was that Fremont, after releasing hiin and his companions on parole, might be induced to establish his headquarters at Sonoma, an idea shared by Semple, Grigsby and Leese. Relations between captives and captors were altogether friendly, except in the case of some hostile feeling among a few individuals against Don Salvador. " They encamjied that night at Yaca's rancho. No special pains wei-e taken to guanl the prison- ers, who, with Leese, slept on a |)ilf of >li:iw UIsroRY OF SONOMA COUNTY. near tlie camp. Yallejo had desired to travel all night; luit the men declined to do so, having had no sleep the night before. Before dawn on the morning of the loth, a Californian succeeded in reaching the cai)tives, and informed Yallejo tha't a company of his countrymen had been organized to effect his rescue, and only awaited his orders. The Colonel refused to permit such an attempt to be made, both because he had no reason to fear any unpleasant results from his enforced visit to the Sacramento, and because he feared retaliation at Sonoma in case an attempt to escape should bring harm to any of the guards. On the 15th the party reached Hardy's place on the Sacramento. Here Merritt left the others, intending to visit Fremont's camp and return next morning, but as he did not come back Leese, with one companion, started in the forenoon of the Itith, also in quest of Fremont. Arriving at Allgeier's place, they Ioarne[ — tiii:y have nine cannons and two m'NDREn muskets — Captain Ide issues a proc- I.AJtATInN LlinrENANT MisSRdOX FROM THE AMERICAN MAN OF WAR, PORTSMOUTH, ARRI\ES AND (JETS ASSURANCE FUnM THE KKVor.UTIONISTS THAT TIIKY Wir.l. IHO I '( iNSTDEKATE OE THE RIGHTS UF THE FORMER CITIZKNS (iF SoNoMA THE Kir,I.IN(; OF CowIE AND FoWLEE AT SaNTA IJos.v THi: P.ATTI.E iiF Ol.oMI'AIJ CaSTRO SENDS TROOPS ACROSS THE BAY A SWIFT MESSEN- GER SENT TO Fremont -- Fremont hastens to Sonoma with ninety men — goes to San IvAFAICr. RETURNS TO SoNOMA AND CELEIJEATES THE FoURTH OF Jui.V THERE — ON THE 5th the California Battalion organize with Fremont and Gieee;spie as officers — Fremon-i- STARTS ON THE 6tH TO HEAD THE BAY AND GO SOUTH AFTER CasTRO — NEWS HAVING REACHED Captain- MoNT(ioMEi:Y, of the Portsmouth, that war existed p-etween the United States and Mexico, he, on the morning of the 9tii of Jui.y dispatched Lieutenant liEVEKE TO Sonoma with an American flag, and at noon of that day the bear flag CAME down and the stars and stripes went IP. .g^^ENEPwAL VALLEJO certainly had a riglit 'livTP to lie sHvprisid at tlie foregoing treatment W^ I'V Fremont. Tiiat lie appreciated the real condition of affairs is made very plain by the following correspondence, a carefnl perusal of which will show that General Vallejo, when taken prisoner at Sonoma, felt warranted in looking to United States anthoritics for protec- tion. From John B. Montgomery, command- ing United States ship Portsmouth, he certainly received more of consideration and cheer than from (xeneral Fremont, and yet in both instances the action of the l>ear Flag party seems to have been repudiated and ignored entirely. Viewed from tills stniidnoint it is not a matter of wonder that Cajitain Grigsby and others of the Bear Flag party may have felt a tickling sensa- tion aronnd the neck when they ascertained that their taking of Sonoma was not backed by any positive anthority from Fremont or any body else clothed with United States authority. The rank and file of the Bear Flag party evi- dently acted npon the principle that a "wink was as good as a nod of assent;" and taking their lives in their hands they struck the blow, and took the chances. Like John Adams who, after affixing his name to the Declaration of Inde- pendence, remarked, "well, if we hang, we ail hang together," they captured Sonoma, and left to tilt' fntiirt' what the outcome of the venturi' HISTORY Olf SONOMA COUNTY. should be. Tlio t'ollowinc; is tlie eorrespinulenee refeiTcd to: '• HISTiiUR'AL CoKRKSl'DNUKXCK. '• (ieneral Vallejo's niessaye to Captain Mont- gomery, the daxj of the capture of Sonoma — Montijom.ery's reply — Lieutenant Miss- roon's account of the revolutionists — Highly creditahle conduct of the Bears — ■ Ide\i pledge to Missioon. " United States Ship Pokts.mihtii. "San Franiisco, Au^^ust 17, 1847. " My Deae General: — I am now about to sail for Monterey, and avail myself of tliis mode of expressing to you my regret that I shall thus most probably be deprived of seeing you on your contemplated visit to Yerba Buena to- morrow, having anticipated much pleasure from this event; Init you well know how little we servants of the public are left to the disposition of our own time. '* I reached the Portsmouth from Sonoma very coinfortably on Friday last about ti o'clock in the afternoon, greatly pleased with my visit, and gratified by the very kind and hospitable attentions of my esteemed friends there, the i-e- membrance of which I shall long continue to cherish. " In compliance with your e.xpressed wisiies while I was at Sonoma, I herewith inclose you, my dear General, copies of tiie document for- warded to yon by De la Rosa in tlie commence- ment of the late revolution, and those liaving reference to Lieutenant Missroon's visit to Sonoma b\- my ordei's, with overtures to the in- surgent chief in behalf of prisoners and the helpless inhabitants of that place, which you are at liberty to use as you shall think proper. '' From Monterey it is most probable 1 shall make a cruise to the southward, and am not without hopes of soon returning with the pleas- ing intelligence of peace between the United States and Mexico, which I feel assured will be most welcome tidings for you and all who are interested in the prosperity of California. '' Be pleased to present my most respectful re- gards to Madam Vallejo and all the members of your interesting family, and express to them my sen.se uf their kind hospitality and attention to me and my little son during our recent visit; and believe me, my dear General. 1 am and shall ever be, with highest esteem and friend- ship, sincerely your obedient servant, " John B. MoNT(io.MEKy. "Gen. Guadalupe Vallejo, Sonoma." Statement of the interview hetween Senor Don Jose de la Rosa and Vommander John B. Montgomery, commanding United States ship Portsmouth, Lieutenant W. A. Bart- lett, United States Navy, interpreter. By order of the commander, John B. Mont- gomery. " Don Jose de la Rosa, on coming on board the ship, desired to inform Captain Montgomery that he brought information from Don Guada- lupe Vallejo, military commandante of Sonoma, which he desired to give the moment Captain Montgomery could receive him. " On being received by Captain jMontgomery I was directed to act as interpreter, when Senor de la Rosa proceeded to deliver his message, which 1 wrote, as follows: " Don Guadalupe Vallejo desires to inform Captain ]\[ontgomery of the proceedings which took place at Sonoma yesterday morning, at 5 o'clock. There arrived at Sonoma a party of about eighty men, as they said, from the Sacra- mento. They at once took forcible jiossession of the place, and posted themselves on the " Cuartel." They then made prisoners of Gen- eral Vallejo, Captain Don Salvador Vallejo, and Lieutenant-Colonel Don Victor Prndhon, all of whom are officers of the Mexican army. " Then a Mr. Merritt, who appeared to liave command (U- exercise the authority with the party, handed the General a convention demand- ing of iiim the surrender of all the arms and government property in Sonoma, which place they should not leave. " The General replied that he must surrender to the force in arms, and did so surrender, when niaroRT of sonoma county. tiie party demanded fiirtlier that all the above- named ofticers slionld go with them to their eanip on the Sacramento liiver. " General Vallejo tiien re(|uested them to show their authority or determination (ct/iajo qtie jddiioy, and as they said they were Americans, lie desired tliey should exhibit tlieir authority from the Government of tiie United States. They replied that they did not come under the authority of the United States; but having seen a proclamation of Gen. Castro, threatening to drive all foreigners out of the country, they hail taken up arms in self-defense. '• Tiiey then made a prisoner of the Alcalde, and told him that if any person in the place or neighborhood attempted to notify other places of this act, or raise a force to oppose tliem, they would at once shoot the otKcers they tlien held prisoners. The Alcalde was then set at liberty, l)ut told that if he did not prevent any opposi- tion to them he would also be shot. " General Vallejo desires to inform CJaptain Montgomery of these facts, and to ask him to use his authority or exert his intiuence to pre- vent the commission of acts of violence by this party, inasmuch as they seemed to be without any effectual head or authority. To this end he hoped for an officer to be sent to the place, or a letter that would have the effect of saving the helpless inhabitants from violence and anarchy. '• Senor Don Jose de la Rosa was directed by (Teneral Vallejo (at 11 a. m. yesterday) to come with this message, but could not leave until 3 1'. M. A few moments jjast 11 the party left a garrison of twenty-five men at Sonoma pro- tected by seven pieces of cannon. The others, with the prisoners, left for the SacraiTUMito." Iitij/lt/ of VomvKmder MonfyoiiKiij to tin' mcs- ■sriye of General Vdllejo. " Sik: — You will say to General Vallejo, on my part, that I at once and entirely disavo■\^ this movement as having proceeded under any authority of the United States, or myself as the agent ot my Government in this country. or on this coast. It is a movement entirely local, and with which I have nothing to do; nor can I in any way be induced to take part in the controversy whicli belongs entirely to the inter- nal politics of California. "If they are Americans, as they avow them- selves, they are l)eyond the jurisdiction of the laws and officers of the United States, and must now take all the responsibilities of the position in which they have placed themselves, being answerable to the laws of Mexico and Califor- nia. " I have now for the first time heanl of this movement, and in making the most positive disavowal, for myself and for my Government, having in any wise instigated or aided this. I also disavow the same on the part of Captain Fremont, United States topographical engineer, now in the country for scientific purposes. " If my individual efforts can be at any time exercised to allay violence or prevent injury to innocent persons, it shall be exerted; but as an officer of the Government of the United States I cannot have anything to do with either party. They must take the responsibilities of their own acts. From what has already transpired I think it clear that no violence will be committed on any one who is not found with arms in their hands. You will assure General Don Guada- lupe Vallejo of my sympathy in his difficulties; but I cannot positively interfere in the hical politics of California." Senor de la Rosa then thanked Captain AFont- gomery for his sentiments and sympatii}'; stateil that all was distinctly undei'sfood and translated, and that he Would place his statement in the hands of Don Guadalupe Vallejo at tiie earliest moment. " I hereby certifythat the ])receding statement is a fair translation (^i' the message and rej)ly read to Captain Montgomery and Senor de la Rosa. " (Signed) W. A. Ii.vkti.ktt, " l>ieutenant United States Navy, " United States ship I'ni'txiiioiitlt, Saucelito, June 15, 18-1(;." m nrsTonr of soNo^fA rorxrr [copy of OKDEK to r.IKlTENANT MISSl{(iOX.] " T^NiTKD States Sill I' Poktsnioitii, "San Francisco, June 15, 1S4G. " Stir. — IJy an especial messenger sent to me by Don (4nailalnpe Yallejo. I am notified of the forcible occupation of tlie town of Sonoma by a party of insurgents (foreign residents) of the country, among wliom are said to be some per- sons from tlie United States, and that General Don Guadalupe Yallejo, with several other Mexican officers, have been sent prisoners to the Sacramento and threatened to be detained as hostages for the quiet submission of the sur- rounding country, leaving their families and other inoft'ensive persons in and about Sonoma in a painful state of agitation through apjire- hcnsions of violence and cruel treatment from the insurgent party in charge of the town. In consequence of this state of things. General Yallejo has appealed to me, requesting the in- terposition of any authority or influence I may possess over the insurgents to prevent the perpe- tration of acts of violence on their part upon the defenseless people. "1 have, in ray reply to (General Yallejo (by the messenger), stated my previous ignorance of the popular movement in question; distinctly and emphatically disavowed all agency of the United States Government or myself as her representative in producing it, and disclaimed all right or authority to interfere between the opposing parties or in any M'ay to identify my movements with theirs. But, in compliance with the urgent calls of humanity, I deem it m}- duty to use my friendl}' endeavors with the dominant party to secure (by the power of God) for the defenseless people of Sonoma that security of life, jiroperty and privilege to which all are entitled. " In pursuance of these views, sir, you are di- rected to ])roceed in one of the sliip's boats to Sonoma, and, on your arrival there, you will wait on the officer or person commanding the party having possession of the town; and as it is possible he is not fully aware of the extent and nature of the feelings produced in the iTiinds of the population by this recent move- ment you will inform him of the state of appre- hension and terror into which it seems to have thrown them, and disclaiming all right or pur- pose on my part of interference between them and their actual opposers; and without touching upon the merits of their cause further than may not be avoided in course of conversation, be pleased (in such terms as your own sense, of propriety will dictate) respectfully to request from me, that he will extend his protecting care over the defenseless families of their prisoners and other inoffensive persons of Sonoma, and exert his infiuence with others in order to secure to them the uninterrupted enjoyment of their domestic and social privileges. "You will afterward wait on the Alcalde, or presiding civil officer of Sonoma, and inform him of what has been done (at the instance of Don Guadalupe Yallejo), communicating any satisfactory assurances which you may have re- ceived from the insurgent chief calculated to allay the general apprehension; after wliicli, when sufficiently I'ecruited, you will return to this ship and render to me a written report. "Respectfully, I am, sir, yourobedient servant " (Signed), John B. "Monti jomkkv, " Commander. " To Lieutenant John S. Missroon, Executive Officer United States ship Portsiaouthy Al'l'ENDAGE To MR. MISSROOn's OlIDKK. " Dear Sir: — As an appendage to the orders handed you last evening, I wish you to endeavor in as forcible a manner as possible, to represent to the person or persons of the insurgent jiarty with whom you may confer at Sonoma and to impress their minds with a sense of the advan- tages wliich will accrue to their cause (whatever its intrinsic merits may be) from pursuing a course of kind and benevolent treatment of prisoners, as well as toward the defenseless in- habitants of the country generally, with whom they may have to do, and endeavor, as far as propriety will permit, to obtain a promise of Hr STORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. kind and luiiiiane treatment toward General Vallejo and his conipaniuns in their possession as prisoners. " I am, sir, respectfully, your obedient servant " (Signed) John B. Mo.ntgomerv, >' Commander. " To Lieutenant John S. Missroon, United States ship Portsnujath. "' Report of Lieutewnit JIi>i»rooii on /lia return from Sonoiio', ir/t/i accoiiijiaui/hnj docu- ment " B." '• Unitkd Statks Snii' PuKTsMnrrn, " Sa.n Francisi(j, June 17, 1846. Sir: — In pursuance of your order of the 16th instant, to proceed to Sonoma and endeavor by all proper means in my power to secure to the females and unoffending portion of tiie popula- tion of that district some degree of security for their persons and property during the occupancy of the place by certain insurgents, chiefly foreigners, I have the honor to report, in ol)edi- ence to that order, that I left the ship on the day of receiving your instructions, and reached the town about sunset, where I found about twenty-iive men under arms, and having six or seven pieces of artillery with several hundred stand of arms. The whole party is only thirty- five. "I waited upon the commanding officer, Wm. I>. Ide, and received from him both verbal and written assurances of his intention to maintain order and to respect both the jiei'soiis and prop- erty of all persorrs residing within the limits of his command. He also handed nie a copy of a proclamation which he had issued on the day after his occupation of the town, and which I herewith present to you, marked " A," in which you will observe that these promises of pi'otec- tion are set forth in explicit terms, and which 1 would remark to you, seemed to me to have fully assured the inhabitants of their safety, although Sonoma is evidently under martial law. " By tiiis proclamation you will also observe that California is declared to be an independent republic. The insurgent party has hoisted a ffuff with a white field, with a liorder or stripe of red on its lower ])art, and having a star and bear upon it. " I informed the commanding otticer of the state of terror into which his movement uiicm Sonoma had thrown the inhabitants in and about the Verba IJuena, as directed by my instructions. " I then waited upon the Alcalde of the place, informed him throiigh my interpreter that my visit was entirely of a peaceful character, and that it had been induced liy the message which my commander had received from the late Mexican commander. General Vallejo, now a prisoner in the hands of the insurgents, asking his (my commander's) interference for the pro- tection of females and unoffending inhabitants; that assurances of respect and protection were freely given me by the commanding officer of the party under arms, and that I explicity made it known to him, for the information of the sur- rounding country, that my commander dis- claimed any and all interference in the matter other than what was dictated by motives of humanity. " After these interviews I then called upon the family of General Vallejo and moderated their distress, by the assurance of safety for the Gen- eral, whicli I had received, and informing tlain that the prisoners were held as hostages. " Having completed the object for which I went to Sonoma, I left the place yesterday with the thanks of both parties, about meridian, and reached the ship about sunset. Before taking my departure I deemed it best to reassure the Alcalde, in order to prevent any necessity for future explanation, which is so apt to grow out of a business transacted with Mexicans, especi- ally through an interpreter. I therefore ad- dressed the letter marked " B,'' appending to it the written pledge, or a copy of the pledge, which I had obtained from the commander of tiie foreigners in possession of the place, and whicii I herewith hand you a co]>y of "It only remains, sir, for me to add that, so far as I could judge and observe, the utmost HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. hrti-inoiiy and guud order prevail in tlie camp, and tliat 1 liavo every reason to believe that the pledges of kind treatment toward all wlio may fall into their hands will be faithfully obseri-ed. >' Respectfully, sir, your obedient servant, "(Signed). d. S. Misskoon, '> First Lieutenant United States ship Portn- nnnith. "To Conmiander J no. J!, ^iontgoniery. com- manding United States ship 7'"/'i.s//<'>Mi'/', JSayof San Francisco."' Document " ij," arcumpiunjinij the fdrcijiiiinj report. " SiiN■ KespectfuUy, your obedient servant. "(Signed). J. S. Misskoon, " Jjieutenant United States Navy." "to the alcalde of so.nhma. " I pledge myself that I will use my utmost exertion to restrain and prevent the men in arms under my command, all iif whom present acknowledge my authority and approve the measure of forbearance and humanity, from jier- petrating any violence, or in any manner molest- ing the peaceable inhalntants, in pei-son or prop- erty, of California, while we continue in arms for the liberty of California. " (Signed), Wm. B. Iue, " Commander. " AVitness to the above signature, "(Signed), J. S. Misskoon, " Lieuteiumt United States Navy, and Execu- tive Otiicer of the United States ship l'ortt<- iiienith. "So.NOMA, June 17, 184G." The revolutionists were now master id' the situation, having control of nine cannons anil about two hundred muskets. "While AVMIliam B. Ide, then the leader of the ISear Flag party, may have been a man of some eccentricity of character, he seems to have been a man of con- siderable culture, and there is little room for doubt that he shaped and controlled, to a large degree, the conduct of those under him. It was no sinecure position, this of Commander Ide. It is true, the prisoners sent to Sacramento were taken charge of by General Fremont, under the saving clause that he had nothing to do with their arrest — and it is also true that Commander Montgomery of the Purtsinoiith in an unofficial way, and in obedience to the dictates of human- ity, sent Lieutenant Missroon to SononiH. to counsel moderation and kindness on the part of the revolutionists toward the vanquished; but in neither case was there ought said or done that could be construed into leaving the door ajar for a safe retreat of the Bear Flag pai ty out of their difficulty should their i-ebellion prove abortive. To stand their ground and successfully maintain their position under such adverse circumstances re(juired not only nerve but real heroism. That they knew that they were acting outside of the pale of any responsible authority is ap- parent from the fact that one of the very first matters to claim their consideration was the adoption of a flag. There is little question tJiat the bear flag was made on the day of the taking of Sonoma, although it is quite possible it was not completed so as to be hoisted until the morning of the 15tli of June. As there has been much controversy as to how and by whom that flag was made, we give place to the follow- ing which we believe to be authentic: AVm. L. Todd in a letter to the editor of the HISTORY OF SONOMA COCNTY. Los Angeles E,vprci tu prucecd against Sonoma. Fremont at unce called tu saddle and his command went toward Sonoma as fast as muscle and tendon of mustang liorses would carry tliem. Arrived there, Fremont became satisfied tliat lie had been deceived, and may hat or cap, but had a light cotton handker- chief bound around it, and deer skin moccasins completed the suit, which, if not fashionable for I'roadway, or for a presentation dress at court, struck nie as being an excellent rig to scud under or tiglit in. A few minutes' conversation convinceil me that I stood in the presence of the King of the Kocky Mountains." Fremont remained in the neighborhood of San Rafael until July ind, when he returned to Sonoma. On the 4th of July, our national holiday was celebrated with due pomp and ceremony, and on the 5th, the California Battalion of mounted riflemen, two hundred and tifty strong, was ori>-anized. Brevet Captain John C. Fremont, Second Lieutenant of Topographical Engineers, was chosen^commandante; First Lieutenant of Marines, Archibald H. Gillespie, Adjutant and Inspector, with the rank of captain. Both of the gentlemen named were otlicers of the United States Government, yet this organization was consummated under the fold of the Bear flag that yet kissed the breezes of the " Valley of the Moon." The next day, the Gth of July, Fre- mont at the head of his mounted riflemen, started to make the circuit of the head of the bay, to go south in pursuit of Castro. As there were now no California soldiers north of the bay it did not require a large garrison of the bear party to hold Sonoma. l)ut the end was hastening. On the 7th of July Commodore John Drake Sloat having received tidings that war existed between the United States and Mexico, demanded and received the surrender of Monterey. The news was immediately sent to San Francisco, where was anchored the American war vessel, PoHs- )iiouth. At two o'clock on the moniing of July 9th, Lieutenant Warren lievere, left that vessel in one of lier boats, and reaching the Sonoma garrison, at noon of that day, lowered the l>ear flag and hoisted in its place the stars and stripts. And thus ended the bear flag revolution at Sonoma. Lieutenant Keverc also sent Amer- ican flags to be hoisted at Sutter's Fort and at the establishment of Captain Stephen Smith at Bodega. Lieutenant lievere was sent to Sonoma by Montgomery of the I'ortsmouth, to command the garrison, consisting of Company B of the battalion, under Captain Grigsby. Lieutenant Grigsby tells us that "a few disartected Califor- nians were still prowling about the district, in pursuit of whom on one occasion he made an expedition with sixteen men to the region of Point Reyes. He did not And the party sought, but he was able to join in a very enjoyable elk- hunt." In August the Vallejos, Prudon, Leese and Carrillo were released trom durance vile, and restored to their families and friends. That very amiable relations existed between the victors and vanquished is evidenced by the fact that in September, while Lieutenant Re- vere was absent on an expedition, the Vallejos were commissioned to protect the Sonoma frontier with a force of Christian Indians. Some date previous to Septemlier lltli. Lieutenant John S. Mi.ssroon, of the Portsnidxitli, assumed command of the Sonoma garrison. On the 25th of September, a meeting of the "Old Bears " was held at Sonoma, at which J. B. Chiles presided and Jolin H. Nash acted as secretary, and a committee of three was ap- pointed to investigate and gather all the infor- mation possible in relation to the action of the bear flag party, and report at a subsequent meeting. Semple, (Grigsby and Nash were appointed the committee. Manuel E. Mcintosh was now alcalde of Sonoma. From the bear flag conquest of Sonoma, down to the discovery of gold in California in 1S4S there is little to note in connection with Sonoma. Grigsby, Revere, Missroon and Bruckett were the succes- sive military commaiidauts, and the Indians in STORY op SONOMA dOUNTY. Cfl were easily lield in suhjection by Vallejo as was then an inten-egnuni of military rule, after snh-agent of Indian atl'airs. In 1848 Sonoma wiiicli John II. Nasii liecame alcalde, and had a total population of about 260 souls. | was superseded in 18+7 by Lilburn W. Boggs, -losr de los Santos Berryessa under Me.xican rule ■ who, aided by a council of six, administered tiie had been at the head of municipal affairs. There ' municipal government of Sonoma until 1848. HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. CIIAl'TEK VIII. TiiK Beai; Fr.AO. now made — xames of the revolutionists— State seal— General Mariano (iiAHAMi-K \'Ar.i.i:,in — Gexerai. Johx A. Sctter— S"xoma District pioxeeus— Native Son^ (IF the (4()i.1)i:n- West. fN the "Admission Day" edition of tlie Sonoma Coiniti/ Demoprat of Septeinlier 9, i>- 1885, jippuars tlie following. The writer, R. A. Thompson, with whom we are well ac- quainted, is painstaking and conscientious in collating facts, and as he states that mnch of his information is derived from actual partici- pants, it is entitled to confident credence: "The Independents were very proud of their flag. The bear made an apt illustration of their situation. The grizzly attended strictly to his own business, and would go on munching his berries and acorns if you let liim and his cubs alone. If you undertook to crowd him out, or to make him go any other way or any faster than lie wanted to go he would show fight, and when once in a tight he fought his way out or died in his tracks. The Independents were here, had cmne in good faith, and come to stay; were quiet and peaceable if let alone. General Castro under- took to crowd them. His grandiloquent proc- lamations were harmless, but vexatious. At last the crisis came. The Inde])endents, weary of threats and rumors of war, were forced, for the sake of peace, to fight, and having "gone in," to use the identical words of one of them, they did not intend to " back out." The bear was typical of that idea. The difl'erence of opinion about the make-up of the bear flag arises from the fact that there was more than one made. The first was a very iMulc affair. It is described in Lieutenant Miss- roon"s rcjiort to Captain ^lontgomery. Lieu- tenant Missroon arrived in Sonoma Tuesday, the Ifith of June, about forty-eight hours after the caj)ture. He i-ejiorts to Captain ^rontgomery on the ITtli that "tlie insurgent party had hoisted a jlaij with a white field, with a border or stripe of red on the lower part, and having a bear and star upon it." The words " California Hepuldic " were not on it at this time, or of course so important a feature would have been noted by Lientenant Missroon, who was on a sjjecial and e.xceedingly important mission from his commander. That these words were after- wards added is doubtless true. It is a matter of ver}' little importance, luit if any one wishes an exact description of the fiagas first raised, he can satisfy himself by an examination of the above-mentioned report. The flag with the bear standing is an after production, as is also the ttlSTORY Of 80NOMA COUNTY. silk guerdon wliich Lieutenant Revere presentefl to the pioneers. The description of the flag given by Lieutenant Missroon accords witli tlie account of several of the }>arty whom the writer has personally interviewed. Of course, as tliere were, several flags made; each dift'ered from the other, in the material, I'rom whom the material was obtained, by whom the flag was made, and just how the flgures were placed upon it. Hence the confused and many diverse acconrits of it. All are right as to what they describe; but what they descril)e is not the flag flrst raised by the Independents. That was rather a rude aflair. In fact, the representation of the bear upon it resembled the species j^orcxis as much as it did tlie urxux fero.r or horrihlUs. There were tiiirty-three men in the Hear l^'iag party, more than lialf of whom came from the Sacramento Valley. Among the latter was the brave and gallant blacksmith, Saraiiel Neal, and Ezekiel Merritt, the captain of the company. Following is the first list ever published of the names of all the party. A number came into Sonoma tlie day after the capture, and they continued to come in for some time. It is very ditticnlt to separate these from the actual mem- l)crs lit tlie party who rode into Sonoma on the morning of June 14th. The accompanying list has been a number of years making, and has been revised many times and corrected from written records and by personal interviews. There are, doubtless, still some errors, which may be corrected upon a satisfactory showing: Sa('ka:mknto ^'at.lky. — Ezekiel Merritt, R. Semple, William Fallon, W. B. Ide, ILL. Ford, (I. P. Swift, Samuel Neal, William Potter, Sergeant Gibson, W. M. Scott, James (iibbs, II. Sanders, P. Storm. N.\i'A. Sainnci Kelsey, Penjamin Kelsey, John Grigsby, David Hudson, Will Hargrave, Harrison Peirce, William Porterfield, Patrick McChristian, Elias I'.arrett. ('. Grittith, AVilliam ].,. Todd, Nathan Coombs, Lucien Ma.xwell. Sonoma. — Franklin Pidwell, Thomas Cowie, — Fowler, W. B. Elliott, licnjamin Dcwcll, John Sears, 'Old lied.'"' SEAT, o|.- I AI.IFOKNIA. The convention which framed the Constitu- tion of the State of California (1849), passed a resolution appropriating $1,000 for a design for the Official Great Seal. One was presented by Mr. Lyons, of which he professed to be the author; it represented the Pay of San Francisco, as emblematic of the commercial importance ot the city and State, with the goddess Minerva in the foreground, illuslrating its sudden spring- ing into maturity; and the Sierra Nevada in the distance indicative of the mineral wealth of the country. The motto was the Greek word " Eureka " (I have found it). This was pre- sented to the committee, which consisted virtu- ally of Hon. John McDougal, his associate, Hon. Rodman M. Price, being absent. General McUongal was ]Jeased with the design, and wished it adopted with little- or no alteration; but finding that impossible, he consented to several minor additions. Thus the figure of the grizzly bear was added, as appropriate to the only section of the country producing that animal. This was especially insisted upon by some members, conspicuous among whom was the late Hon. -Jacob R. Snyder, then represent- ing Sacramento County. The native Califor- nians, on the other hand, opposed it, wrongly supposing that its introduction was intended to inimoi'talizc that event. The sheaf of wheat and bunch of grapes was also adopted, as em- blems of agricultural and horticultural interests of the southern sections of the State, ]iarticn- larly. With these exceptions the seal, as (1(>- signed by Mr. Lyons, was that selected. After it was accepted, some of the members claimed the original design of it ft)r Major (iariiett, who, however, had expresseil to Mr. Lymis, df HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. Lyonsdale (as with harmless affectation the eccentric First Assistant Secretary loved to des- ignate himself), a desire that he alone should he known as its author. Dr. Wozencraft tried to have the gold-digger and the hear struck out, and General Yallejo wanted the hear re- moved, or else fastened hy a lassoo in the hands of a vaquero; hut the original suited the ma- jority, and it was not altered. September 29, 1849, Mr. Norton uttered the following, which was adopted: Fesoh-ed, That Mv. Caleb Ly..n i)e and he is hereby autiiorized, to superintend the engraving of the seal for the State, to furnish the same in the shortest possible time to the Secretary of the Convention, with the press and all necessary appendages to be My him delivered to the Sec- retary of State appointed under this Constitu- tion, ami that the sum of .si, 000 be paid to ilr. Lyon in full compensation and payment fur the design, seal, ])ress, and all append- ages. Ji.'soh-td, That "the (Ireat Seal of the State (if Califurnia " be added tu the design. The seal is thus explained by its designer: •'Around the bend of the ring are i-epresented thirty-one stars, being the number of States of whicii the Union will consist upon the admis- sion of California. The foreground figure rep- resents the goddess ifinerva liaving sprung full-grown from tiie brain of ,hi]»iter. She is introduced as a type of political birth of the State of California, without having gone through the probation of a Territory. At her feet crouches a grizzly bear, feeding upon the clus- ters from a grape-vine, emblematic of the peculiar characteristics of the country. "A miner is engaged with his rocker and bowl at his side, illustrating the golden wealth of the Sacramento, upon whose waters are seen shipping, typical of commercial greatness; and the snow-clad peaks of tlie Sierra Nevada make up the background, while above is the Greek motto, 'Eureka' (I have found), applying either to the princijjle involved in the admission of the State, or tlie success of the minei- at work. Caleb Lv<>x, " Of Lyonsdale, New York. " AloxTE hi: V, Cai.., Sept.' 20, 1849." ANOTHER VERSION. The above gives the history of the adoption of the great seal of the State, as shown b}' the i-ecord. Following is another version of its origin : Major K. S. Garnett of the United States army actuallj- made the design of the seal whicli was adopted. He declined to claim it, on the ground that the knowledge of the source from which it came would prevent the adoption of the design, owing to the hostility growing up between the existing military authorities and the nascent civil powers of California. Caleb Lyon humbly asked leave of Major (xarnett to appropriate and present it as his own. Major Garnett replied that lie had no idea of reaping either honor or reward from the design, and if Mr. Lyon could reconcile it to his conscience to represent himself as the author of another's work, he was lieartily welcome to what he could make of it. The last account has about it the earmark of truth, but as to which is the more reliable account we leave to tlie decision of the reader. GeNEUAI. ^[aRIANo GArDAI.t'PE Vaij.e.io. A history of Sonoma County with General M. G. Yallejo ignored would be like tlie play of Hamlet with Hamlet left out. We visited him in 1888, and were saddened by the evidences apparent on every hand of decayed gentility. That he was the friend of the Americans is not a question of doubt — that the Americans prof- ited by his prodigality and are now indifferent to his needs are lamentably true. But his name will reach farther down the annals of history than it is in the power of gold to purchase name and fame. Mariano G. Yallejo was born in Alonterey, July 7, 1808. His father, Ignacio Yincente Ferrer Yallejo was a native of Spain, who came HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. in his youth to the State of Guadalajara, Mex- ico. In 1774, wlien a young man, being of an adventurous nature, he secretly joined an ex- pedition under Captain Rivera for the explora tion of Upper California. He was probably with Captain Rivera's party on the 4th of December, when the large wooden cross was erected on the peninsula of San Francisco, which his son, General Vallejo, says he saw standing in 1829. At all events, he was an eye-witness of the founding of the mission of San Francisco, which event occurred October 4, 1776. On his arrival in Monterey, Senor Ignacio Vallejo saw for the iirst time his future wife. It was the day of her birth. He then asked permission of the parents of the infant to wed their daughter when she should become of age. Suhsequently, this proposition, made half in jest, was renewed, the sefiorita then heing a blooming young girl, and Seilor Vallejo a bachelor of forty. The marriage proved a happy one, and Mariano G. Vallejo was the eighth of thirteen children, the fruit of the union. Young Vallejo availed himself of every op- portunity to improve his mind by reading and study during his minority. He got possession of a library when quite young, which was of great service. From this source he probably acquired a fund of information, which made him the peer of the learned and distinguished persons from all parts of the world, with whom he was destined in after life to be ass(jciated. At the age of sixteen years he was a cadet in the army, and private secretary of Governor Arguello. In l.S2y he was jiIucimI in chargf of the I're- sidio of San Francisco, which ])ositi(in he held until 1834, organizing in the interval the first city or town government of San Francisco. (Tovernor Figneroa, the most ])opular of all the Mexican Governors, had control of affairs in 1834. Having learned that a large number of colonists, some four hundred odd, were on their way to (ialifornia from Mexico, lie deter- ■ mined to locate them in Sduoma, partly with the view of shutting out the Ttussians. and partly because it was one of the most inviting spots to colonize over which he had ever cast his experienced eyes. He selected Lieutenant A"al- lejo as the most suitable of his officers to com- mand the frontier and execute his plans. Together they visited the country, taking in their tour of observation the stronghold of the Russian squatters at Ross. Returning to the Santa Rosa Valley the Governor selected a site on Mark West Creek for the future colon}', giving it the name of " Santa Anna y Ferias," uniting these names prol)ably because he could not tell which of the rival political chiefs would be on top when he next heard from Mexico. He left a camp of soldiers there who were under the command of (4eneral Vallejo. The colonists were under the direction of Senor Hihas, who was a quarrelsome, ambitions and avaricious man. (Tovernor Figueroa had received orders to turn over the control of affairs to Hihas. On his return from Sonoma he met a courier with orders, countermanding the former instruction, and continuing the direction of affairs solely in his own hands. The colonists arrived in March, 1835, and were temporarily quartered in Sonoma. Hihas and his coadjutors among the colonists wei-e mnch disaffected, and threatened rebellion. Figueroa ordered their arrest. This order was executed by General Vallejo with much skill and judgment, without bloodshed or any per- sonal collision. Hihas and his cosmopolitan company were taken to San Francisco, and were soon after sent Jiack to Mexico. (ieneral Vallejo remained Iti charge of the fi'ontiei'. He removed his headquurtei's from Santa Anna y Ferias, on Mark West, to Sonoma, when, liy order of Figueroa, he, in the month of June, 1835, established the town of Sonoma. (ieneral Figueroa died soon after these events. His successor, (iovernor Carrillo, was deposed by Alvarado. The new governor appointed (Toneral Vallejo to the position of Command- ante (Tfueral of the frontier. In this position (xeueral Vallrjn did all in his 74 HISTORY OF SONOMA GOV NT Y. powei' to promote tlie settlement of the frontier. Expeditions were sent ont against the Indians, agricnltnral industries were extendeti, and the raising of cattle, sheep and horses was in (>verv wa}' en con raged. Between 1840 and 1845 a large numljiT of immigrants came to northern California. Tliey were well received by the General, though the home government was continually " nagging" him because he did not send tlie foreigners ont of the country, at the same time giving him neither men nor means to carry ont their order. Jn the early part of the vear 1840, affairs in California were rapidly approaching a crisis. In April, a junta was called to meet at Monterey to consider the condition of affairs. Revere gives a summary of some of the speeches made. That of General A'^allejo was as follows: "I cannot, gentlemen, coincide with the mili- tary and civil functionaries who have advocated the cession of our country to France or Eng- land. It is most true that to rely any longeron Mexico to govern and defend ns would be idle and absunl. To this extent 1 fully agree with my colleagues. It is also true that we possess a noble country, every way calculated, from posi- tion and resources, to become great and power- ful. For that very reason I would not have her a mere dependency upon a foreign monarchy, naturally alien, or at least indifl'erent to our in- terests and our welfare. It is not to be denied that feeble natinns have in former times thrown themselves upon the protection of their power- ful neighbors. The I>ritons invoked the aid of the warlike Saxons, and fell an easy prey to tiieir protectors, who seized their lands and. treated them like slaves. Long before that time, feeble and distracted provinces had ajjpealed for aid to the all-conquering arms of imperial Rome, and they were at the same time protected and subjugated by their grasping ally. Even could we tolerate the idea of depend- ence, ought we to go to distant Europe for a master? What possible sj'mpathy could exist between us and a nation separated from us by two vast oceans;! Bnt wniving this insu]ierable objection, how could we eiulure to cdmo under the dominion of a monarchy? For, althdugh others speak lightly of a form of goverment, as a freeman, I cannot do so. We are republicans — badly governed and badly situated as we are — still we are all, in sentiment, republicans. So far as we are governed at all, we at least profess to be self-governed. Who, then, that possesses true patriotism will consent to subject himself and his cliildrfu U\ the capi-ices of a foreign king and his official minions? lint it is asked, if we do not throw ourselves upon the ])rotec- tion of France and England, what shall we do? I do not come here to support the existing order of things, but I come prepared to propose in- stant and ett'ective action to extricate our country from her ])resent forlorn condition. My opin- ion is made up tliat we must persevere in throwing oil the galling yoke of Mexico, and proclaim our independence of her forever. V\e have endnreil her official cormorants and her villainous soldiery until we can endui-e no longer. All will probably agree ^\itll nic that we ought at once to rid ourselves of what may remain of Mexican domination. But some profess to doubt our ability to maintain our position. To my niind there comes no doubt. Look at Texas, and see how long she withstood the power of uTiited Mexico. The resources of Texas were not to be compared with ours, and she was niucli nearer to her enemy than we are. Our position is so remote, either by land oi' sea, that we are in no danger from Mexican invasion. Why, then, should we hesitate still to assert our independence? We have indeed taken the first step by electing our own (gover- nor, but another remains to be taken. I will mention it plainly and distinctly — it is annex- ation to the United States. In contemplating this consummation of our destiny, I feel noth- ing but pleasure, and 1 ask you to share it. Discard old prejudices, disregard old customs, and prepare for the glorious change which a^-aits our country. Why should we shrink from in- corpoi-ating ourselves with the happiest and freest nation in the world, destined soon to lie- niSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. tlie most wealtliy and powerful^ ^^'^I'y should we go abroad for protection when this gi-eat nation is onr adjoining neiglilior? When we join our fortunes to liers, we shall not become subjects, but fellow-citizens, possessing all the rights of tlie people of tlie United States, and choosing our own federal and local rulers. We siiall have a stable government and just laws. California will grow strong and flourish, and her people will be prosperous, happy and free. Look not, therefore, with jealousy upon tlie hardy pioneers who scale onr mountains and cultivate onr unoccupied plains; l)ut rather welcome them as brothers, who come to share with us a com- 7non destiny.'' Lieutenant Revere was in Monterey when the junta met; its prx^ceodings were secret, but he says it was notorious that two parties existed in the country, and that General Vallejo was the leader of the American party, while Castro was at the head of the European party. lie says he had his report of the meeting from documentary evidence, as well as sketches of the principal speeches. He also says that so soon as General Yallejo retired from the junta he addressed a letter to Governor Pio Pico embodying the views he had expressed in his speech and refusing ever again to assist in any project having for its end the establishment of a protectorate over Califor- nia by any other power than the United States. At last the long threatened storm broke upon the town of Sonoma, and its commandante and little garrison were captured by the Americans, (leneral Vallejo was kept as a prisoner for about a month, and released i)y order of Commodore Stockton. General Vallejo, speaking of the condition of affairs in Northern California previous to the taking of Sonoma, said: " Years before I had urgently represented to the Government of Mexico the necessity of stationing a sufficient force on the frontier, else Sonoma would be lost; which would be equiva- lent to leaving the rest of the country an easy prey to the invader. AVhat think yon, my irieiids, were the instructions sent me in reply to my repeated demands for means to fortify the country? These instructions were that 1 slumld at once force the immigi-ants to recross the Sierra Nevada and depart from the territory of the Republic. To say nothing of the in- humanity of these orders, their execution was ph^'sically impossible; first, because I had no military force; and second, because the immi- grants came in the autumn, when snow covered the Sierra so quickly as to render return im- practicable. Under tiie circumstances not only L but Commandante-General Castro, resolved to provide tlie immigrants with letters of security, that they might remain temporarily in the country. We always made a show of authority, but were well convinced all the time that we had no power to resist the invasion which was coin- ing in upon us. With the frankness of a sol- dier I can assure j'ou that the American immi- grants never had cause to complain of the treatment they received at the hands of either authorities or citizens." General Vallejo on his release at once made his great influence as a friend of the United States felt throughout the country. He took active interest in public affairs always on the side of order and good government. lie was elected a member of the Constitutional Conven- tion which met in Monterey, and was a Senator from the Sonoma District in the first Legislature of California. And from that period down to the present he has been an enterprising, useful, and honored citizen of Sonoma. In priority of settlement, he is the first of the 35,0(10 inlialii- tants now living in this county. On the 6th of March, 1832, he married Senorita Benicia Francesca Carillo, who still survives with her distinguished husband. In person General Vallejo, even at his ad- vanced age, is a strikingly handsome man. lie is tall and erect in carriage, with the military air of one disciplined to arms in his early youth. He is a brilliant conversationalist, an eloquent s]i(>aker, even in English, which he acquired late in lilc. To these accomplishments may be addi^d the liT.icc of gesture and manner wliicii he in HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. lierits with his hinoc cavaliers. from an ancestry of Spanish A. SiTTKi;. (Ji:nekai, . As tlie name of Captain Jolin A. Sutter is so intimately woven with the iiistory of tiie State as to be a part of the same, and as his purchase of the Ross property identified him directly with the early history of Sonoma County, \vc give place to the following letter written by him in 1845. It is interesting as showing the real conditions in California at the time it was written : Nkw Helvetia, 1st Jan., 1845. Sir and Dear Friend: — My reasons for not writing sooner is that I lacked an opportunity, since j-our young man was afraid of bad weather. I was in hopes all the time that perhaps I might have the pleasure of seeing yon at Verba Buena. I spoke to Mr. Snyder and Alemans, M'ho lioth ])romised to go to Sonoma and pay yon a visit. The representation, etc., for Mr. ( 'astill- ero, I have left in the hands of Mr. Forbes, and hope that the former will have received them before his departure fromCalifornia to Mexico. I was astonished to hear over there the news that I had sold mj' establishment to the Govern- ment, and in fact Mr. Estudillo told me that yon had gone to see those gentlemen at the Moquelumne River, so that it seems that they have not kept the matter secret. What is your opinion about it, sir^ Do you think that the Government \vill buy it? I wish I was certain of that, so that I might take the necessary measures. In case the Government decided about this purchase, do yon think it would be possible to obtain a part of the sum on account. enough to pay a part of my debts? 1 could put them in possession of the estab- lishment at the end of the harvest. It seems to me that the Government ought not to neglect that affair; for next autumn many emigrants are bound here from the United States, and one thing comforts me, that there will be many Germans, French ami Swiss amongst them. I have received letters to that etfect from a few friends, through the last little party of ten men. At all events, nothing conUI be more neces- sary for the (Government than a respectable posi- tion here, in this place. Among the emigrants who intend coming, are gentlemen of great means, capitalists, etc. liy some letters that I have received from New ^ ork, I see that one will bring over all the machinery tit for two steamers; one is destined to be a coaster, while the other will sail the l)ay to Sacramento. The Russians (or Russe) will also bring a little one for the Cap- tain Leidesdorff, and the Russian Captain (or the Captain Russe) Leinderherg, my friend, has made me a present of a little machine large enough for a sloop, which he had made for his pleasure; tliat will i)e very nice for the river. The Dr. McLonghlin, at Vancouver (Columbia), has retired from the Hudson Bay Co., and in- tends to come and live here. He will give a new impnlse to business; he is the great protec- tor of agriculture. A ship is going to bring us printing material, and I intend to have a news- paper published, half Spanish, half English. Such progress are made throughout civilization, and here we are so much behind. E]ven in Tahiti, there is a lithography, and a newspaper is published: FS Oceanic Francaisr. We expect a ship from New Vork in the course of about a month; it will bring us all the necessary implements of agricidture selected on purpose for our valley, comprising many plows, with farmers' garments, etc., etc. This shij) would enter without paying the Custom House duties, if the thing was possible, or, at least, pay them at a moderate rate; or do you think that arrangements could be made with Wv. by paying him four or six thousand dollars, that he might let the ship enter for the benefit of the inhabitants of Sacramento. This would render him quite popular among us; the advan- tage derived for the country would be great; the inhabitants of would have the same ad- vantage as we. In April will arrive another HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. sliip, witli iiMotlier cargo well suited for our valley. The proprietor of these two ships are very rich, and t'onn one of the wealthiest firms in New York and I^ondoii. They contemplate l)uving a lot near the I'ay or Sacramento River, to open warehouses, and keep a stock (.>f articles we may need. They would sell on credit to all tliL' larmers who would desire their trust, and take in [i;iyineut wheat or any other of the pro- ducts of the country, as well as a great quantity of salted salmon. The other merchants wJio transact husiness in this unfortunate country, rcl'use to receive anything hut leather and tallow. This is the ruin of the country. If there was sucli a market and such a competition open, you would soon &ee a great difference. I liope that you will find some means of hav- ing that ship enter; pei'haps Mr. can assist you in the matter; (indeed I have heard that he was on very good terms with the jovial cajjtain), and that affair ought to have (juite as much interest for him as for us. 1 regret very much heing so far from you, and not having more opportunities of corre- sponding, which is e8]jeciaily the case in winter. I wish you could write to me as soon as pos- sible, for I feel convinced that you would easily settle these affairs, since your position as secre- tary to , and your friendly terms with Capt. ■ are advantages which would soon lead us to enrich ourselves, with good manage- ment. The Capt. Fremont of the United States Army has gone to meet his other company, commanded by the Capt. Walker (under his orders), who had been sent after the discovery of another passage through the mountains, more to the south; I expect them daily; they will spend the winter here, and depart again in spring for Columbia. Another small party of ten men has arrived since from the United States; this will be the last; they were fortunate in escaping the snow which fell in great abundance in the mountains at their arrival. Samuel Smith has been here during my ab- sence to Yerba Huena, and unfortunately I for- got to leave orders for his arrest. They told him that 1 had orders to detain him a prisoner, and he answered that he would conje another time when I should be present, but that he did not care to be a prisoner; since then he has imt returned. I believe that he is still somewhere on the other side, and that he is likely to join, by and by, the company now preparing to go to Columbia. Anuuig the people in the upper valley are a few bad characters who stole some of my horses, and some mares and cows of Mr. Corelua's. They are disposed to steal a great deal more, and intend coming near Sonoma l)e- fore their departure, to steal as many cattle as possible. We must try to imprison some of the principal ones, and I hope I can depend on Capt. Fremont and his men. He will doubtless enable me to make his countrymen prisoners, for, to look over such acts, would be the worst influence for the future. However, in case Air. Fremont refuses to assist in the capture of the worst of his countrymen, I shall try to do it alone; and if 1 have not sutticient power to suc- ceed, 1 shall write to Mr. Vallejo for an auxil- iary, etc., etc. It was with the greatest displeasure that I heard from Mr. Wolfsquiell, who came here from Los Angeles, of that bad rascal Fluggo not being dead, but hope that you will do your best to secure that lot of ground which will )irove, no further than next year, a fortune for you I hope that Mr. Covarubias will assist you. In a few weeks the lauiiche will come to Sonoma with some of Heaulieu's garments, and will bi'ing at the same time some tanned leather for Mr. Vallejo. I therefore beg that you would deliver the ten fanegas of wheat to JMaintop, (captain of the launche). If you have any corn, 1 shall buy some. As lor the deer skins which you ha\f, 1 shall write by the same means ami tell you whether I shall take them or not. How inconvenient it is for us in the north, that the capitol should be so far distant. It U J STOUT OF SONOMA VOUNTY. takes at least four or iive mouths before receiv- iug au answer; it would be almost as well uot to write at all, for it tires one so inucli. I make uo more reports to the Governuient, e.\ce[)t to Mr. Castro, as he is the nearest, and he can make his statement to the i;overnmeut if he judges it necessary. 1 have not as yet received an answer from the I'adre Real about the letter that you were kind enoiiuli to write for me abotit fruit trees and vines. Vuu know that Mr. Castro has given me the permission of receiving as much as I needed. Advise me, if you please, un what 1 can do. Will it be possibe to receive "some vine trees" in Sonoma? If you could have them ready in about three weeks, something like 2,000 of them, 1 would pay you as much as they cost. If I have vines here, you can have them (|uite near your farm. {^'.'iV) Leidesdortf is appointed agent of the Co. Amer. Ilusse, to receive the products from me, and iiuy from them. I had the pleasure to see the Captain de Lion, Mr. I5onnet, who told me the troop alone in Marquesas and Tahiti, leav- ing out the inhabitants, consume (550 arobas of tlour a day, and that the Govei'iiment would pre- fer to send here for the provisions, if we can sell them at the same price as in Chili, i?;! the* quintal; we could very well compete at that price if that cursed Custom House ceased to exist. If this country dei'ived any utility from the Custom House one would not complain so much, but it is only good to provide for a lot of useless officers who devour the very marrow of the country. If at last a pajier could be pub- lished that would unseal the blind men's eyes, 1 trust that you may take a ])art and interest in that affair of printing. I am now constructing ii mill with two pairs of mill-stones, for a great (juantity of flour will be needed next autumn when the enugrants arrive. A much better road, some -iOO miles shorter, has been discovered, and the Captain Fremont I has also found in the last chain of mountains a much easier passage than the otie known so far; every trip they make some new discovery. I can assure you that in five years more there will [ be a railroad from the United States here. 1 I can see that. Already the llocky Mountains commence to be peopled, where eight years ago ' I could see nothing bnt deserts with Indians, and where now stand quite consideraljle cities. The crowd of emigrants arriving in the United States increase the population to such an extent that it will tind its way even to the Pacific shores. A year and two more and no power will be able to stop that emigration. Next week you shall have more news from your devoted friend, J. A. Sl'ttek. While the above letter shows that Captain Sutter had an eye strictly to business, it also shows that he took in the real situation and knew that American rule was the ultimate des- tiny of California. We cannot better close this ciiajtter than by appending the following names of those who helped to establish permanent settlements on the north side of San h'rancisco Hay: SONOMA KISTKICT I'loNKEKS. The "Society of California pioneers, compris- ing the counties of Sonoma, Napa, Lake, Men- docino and Marin," was organized December 25, 1867. Those who arrived in California jirior to the 9th day of September, 1850, and their male de- scendants, are eligible to membership. The past presidents have been: Uriah Edwards, 1867- 68; Nicholas Carriger, lS68-'72; William M. Boggs, 1872-'74; William McPherson Hill, 1874-"76; John Cavanaugh, 1876-"78; Julius A. I'oppe, 1878-"79; Thomas EaH, 1879-81; Daniel H. Davisson, 1881-'8L The members are: William C. Adams, Louis Adler, Hierre Augards, Stephen Akers, John Abbott, S. J. Agnew, (J. S. Allen, J. M. Arm- strong, Joseph Albertson, AV. G. Alban, Thomas Allen, E. G. Alban, Horatio Appleton, N. H. BISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. Aiiiesbiiry, D. li. Alderson, John Hall Allison, Charles H. Allen, W. F. Allen, Charles Alex- ander, Charles G. Ames, William M. Boggs, J. 15. Beam, William II. Brady, Herman Barnh. A. A. Basignano, E. Biggs, Louis Bruck. Edward F. Bale, John Brown, Samuel Brown, William Board, John F. lioyce, J. 8. Brackett, David Burris, I. S. Bradford, R. Bunnell, R. T. Barker, .W V. Barker, John N. Bailache, E. N. Boyntoii, Ar. Barney, J. I). Beam, H. H. Brower, Will mm V. Boyce, M. C. Briggs, H. AV. Baker, J. W. Boggs, Erwin Barry, Sim H. But'ord, San- ford Bennett, H. E. Boggs, Elias Barnett, AVilliam Baldbridge, A. C. Boggs, John M Boggs, George W. Boggs, Joseph O. Boggs, Theodors W. Boggs, L. W. Boggs, Jr., J. N. Bennett, P. G. Baxter, Jesse Jieasley, Z. Briggs, Robert Brownlie, Jonathan E. Bond, Peter D Bailey, John Bright, T. C. Brown, A. B. Bor- rell, John Bailiff, William Bradford, 11. C. Boggs, Nicholas (!arriger, Julio Carrillo, Will- iam Corj', Columbus Carlton, John Cavanagh, Howard Clark, G. W. Clark, Solomon H. Car- riger, W. W. Carpenter, C. C. Carriger, A. E. Carriger, B. L. Cook, T. S. Coo|)er, J. R. Cooper, W. L. Copeland. R. Crane, J. Clark, O. W. Craig, (i. AV. Cornwall, W. M. Coleman, E. Coleman, H. K. Clark, S. 1!. Carpenter, Y . 1'. Cook, D. Chamberlin, J. Cairn, O. Clark, W. R. Coburn, 1). W. Carriger, J. L. Cook, J. J. Cugill, Sr., L. Carson, J. C Crigler, J. Ciay- niiui, J. Chiles, J. Custer, B. Capell, J. Cyrus, A. J. Cox, S. Clark, L. Clia[)nian, JS'. Coombs, \). C. Crockett, Dr. C. Crouch, AV. R. Cook, J. Chauvet, H. Decker, JVl. Donohne, H. W. Dick- inson, D. D. Davidson, W. Dorman, B. W,,. Diffendurffei-, E. L. Davis, N. Dunljar, J. Dick- enson, A. J. Dullarhide, J. W. Easter, T. Earl, E. Emerson, J>. E. Edsall, L. F. Eaton, AV. Edgington, A. Y. Easterby, W. Ellis, J. Fer- nald, J. F. Fowler, J. M. Freeman, A. J. AV. Faure, J. T. Fortson, J. Fulton, J. AV'. I'lavell, H. Fowler, AV^ Fowler, W. A. Fisher, A. Far- ley, S. AV. Faudre, F. Fisher, J. M. Gregson, T. C. Grey, F. P. Green, (). Greig, J. Gibson, W. Green, J. F. (ireen, J.Gallagher, W. W. (ireen- ing, A. J. Gordon, J. Griffin, J. J. Goodin, Dr. J. B. Gordon, G. G. (lardner, AV'. Gordon, C. Griffith, J. Grigsby, R. A. Gill, G. Grigsby, P. D. Grigsby, A. J. Galbiaith, J. T. Grigsby, E. Gilleii, P. Gessford, J. Henly, AV. Hood, T. Hopper, H. Hall, L. AI. Harmon, C. Humph- ries, H. Hill, W. M. Hill, 1). Hudson, J. Henry, T. B. Hopper, C. Hopper, B. Hoen, H. H. Hall, S. H. Flyman, A. Hixson, A. Harasthy, L. C. Hubbard, H. P. Holmes, J. AV. Harlan. T. F. Hudson, AV. B. Hagans, C. Hazelrigg, J. 1). Hollaway, AV. H. Holleday, J. B. Horrel, J. Henry, AV. Hargrave, M. Hudson, J. Hudson, J. Harbin, M. Harbin, (4. Hallet, AV. A. Has- kins, J. Haskius, AV. A. Haskins, Jr., L. Hig- gins, F. M. Hackett, J. H. Howlaud, I. Howell, J. Howell, D. Howell, P. Howell, M. R. Hardin, R. S. Hardin, C. Hartson, II. D. Hopkins, W. Houx, A. Henry, L. Jlaskell, K. A. Harvey, M. Ingler, R. Jones, B. Joy, E. Justi, E. K. Jen- ner, D. Jones, C. Juarez, J. A. Jamieson, G. E. Jewett, A. Krippenstapul, F. Keller, H. Kreuse, A. Kohle, J. Knight, R. Kennedy, R. L. Kil- burn, T. Knight, AV. Kilburn, I. Kellogg, AV. W. Kennedy, A. W. King, 1. Kilburn, C. AV. Lubeck, N. Long, R. Lennox, G. AV. I.,ewis, J. H. Lane, C. H. Lamkin, J. A. Losse, J. Lut- gens, H. H. Lewis, II. I). Lay, A. J. Lafevie. 15. Little, J. F. Lainden. J. 1>. Lamar, . Alorgan, P. McChristian, (4. W. McCain. A. J. Willis. J. Munday, M. T. McClellan, J. IMcCormick, L. AV. Mayer, J. AV. Morris, J. R. .Moore, Jr., A. C. McDonald, AV. J. .March, AV. II. Alanlove. J. LL Moore, J. .Martin, C. Alusgrove, AV. .Mc- Donald, J. Aloran, 11. Mygatt, A. Monmert, G. McMahon, R. McGarvey, \\ . Mclieynolds, AV. H. Morri.s, J. Neil, P. G. Norburn. S. S. Noble, AV. Neil, L. A. Norton, E. Neblett, AV. H. Nash, J. M. Nichols, G. W. Gman, A. A. Olmstead, A. P. Overton, 11. Ousley, S. Orr, J. H. Orr, W. Ousley, J. N. I'almer, G. I'earce, AV. Potter, ninrOKT OF SONOMA COUNT r. J. C. Peavy, 11. J. Preston, J. Powell, M. Powell, A. P. Petit, 0. Peterson, G. AV. Peter- son, 1'. II. Plnirris, 11. L. Pierce, 1). Powell, T. J. Poulterer, E. D. Phillips, S. Porter, J. I). Patton, J. A. Pngli, T. Partiii, 11. Portertield, E. 11. Pierce, P. Polsten, J. Y. Porter, D. Pat- ton, J. Powell, R. Poppe, J. Poppe, C. Poppe, 1). Qiiinliven, J. Robeson, T. Rocliford, V. Robin, C. Rogers, W. P. Reed, 11. Robinson, J. M. Robers, J. L. Ronner, D. Ripley, T. W. Richards, S. U. Rupe, J.Reynolds, A. F. Rede- nieyer, J. Regan, G. Reeve, B. Robinson, J. Robinson, B. L. Robinson, Col. Ritchie, A. J. Raney, 8. F. Raney, W. li. Russell, J. Selling, R. Spence, J. Smith, F. Starke, D. W. Sroufe, N. O. Stafford, E. W. Sax, P. Sneed, P. Shar- vein, J. W. Siiarp, D. Spencer, J. K. Smith, S. M. Shinn, J. Sedgley, J. H. Seipp, J. Singley, F. Sears, J. Stewart, A. Salaman. J. 11. Sturte- vant, ('. J. Son, J. F. Shinn, C Stewart, T. Smith, J.Stiltz, W. C. Smith, .1. .1. Swift, J. Somers, A. Stines, Dr. B. Shurtleff, J. Short, S. D. Towne, G. Tomking, E. Towne, W. S. Thomas, C. C. Toler. C. Talbott, R. Tucker, J. Tucker, G. Tucker, William Truebody, J. True- body, John Truebody, W. Truebody, S. Tucker, T. H. Thompson, AVilliani Topping, G. W. Thompson, J. Udall, F. Ulilhorn, F. Vanllallen, P. J. Vasquez, A. Von Quitzow, P. Van Berver, A. J. Van Winkle, M. G. Vallejo, S. Vallejo, D. Wharff, F. Wilsey, C. Weise, J. J. Weenis, L. C. Woodworth, W. Webb, W. S. M. Wright, Joseph Wright, H. L. AVeston, 11. M. Wilson, J. A. Williams, J. Walton, A. A. White, D. AY. AValker, J. Wooden, W. H. Winters, J. AYilson, J. AVestfall, R. B. Woodward, C. B. AVines, J. B. AValdan, J. M. AYhite, P. AVard, 1). Yurk, 11. York, J. York, L. W. Znager. XATCVE SUNS IN SONOMA. The tirst Parlor of the Native Sons of the Golden AVest, instituted in Sonoma County, was in the city of Petaluina. It took the appropriate name of Bear Flag Parlor. It was organized on the 1st of March, 1884, by District Deputy Grand President Charles W. Decker, of San Francisco, assisted by I'ast Grand President Grady, Past Grand Secretary Lunstedt and others. It is No. 27 in the order of its institu- tion. The following persons were elected and installed as its iirst othcers : J. B. Schlosser, P. P.;M. E. C. Monday, P.; John F. Naugh- ton, 1st A^ P.; C. R. Peters, 2d V. P.; AV. King, 3rd V. P.; Frank P. Doyle, Treas.; L. F. Ellsworth, Roc. Sec; F. C. AVest, P^in. Sec; Fred Chamberlain, Marshal; J. Fenger, 1. S. ; James Wright, O. S.; A. Newburgh, C. AY. Brascombe and F. Green, Trustees. Alter the ceremonies were over, there v.-as an agreeable entertainment, and Bear Flag Parlor was fairly launched on its career of usefulness. The following 11th of May, the Bear Flag boys gave a picnic at Laurel Grove, San Rafael. All into.xicants were ruled out of order, and a most agreeable day was spent beneath the shade of a grove of native laurels. Following is a complete list of the present officers and members of the Bear Flag Parlor, for which we are indebted to the courtesy of Recording Secretary, 1). 11. White : Officers— Sr. P. P., AY. E. King; P. P., 11. Mc C. Weston; Pres., C. E. Dillon; 1st V. P., Dan Brown, Jr; 2d V. P., AV. 11. Robinson; 3d V. P., J. 1. Jewell; Rec Sec, D. \l. AVhite; Fin. Sec, F. C. AVest; Treas., N. G. Crowley; Mar., J. A. Fenger; O. S., F. E. Dowd; 1. S., R. J. Facey ; Trustees, G. L. Young, J. F. Dolan and H. C. Thompson; Surgeon, J. H. Crane, M. D. JVIembers — M. Y. llolton, AV. A. Chapman, W. F. Chamberlain, Chas. Towne, M. E. C. Munday, C. H. Myers, J. R. Denman, J. T. Studdert, L. B. Towne, J. ¥. Naughton, J. AV. Cowles, J. Tighe, E. O. Lefebre, T. F. Purring- ton, F. J. Bryan; S. (4. Stockdale, 11. J. East- man, B. E. O'llara, J. E. Mallen, F. A. Wickersham, J. Adler, C. E. Morris. WKSTKKN STAK PAKI.HK. AVestern Star Parlor, No. 28, Santa Rosa, was instituted March the 13tli, 188-4, by Dis- trict Deputy C. H. Decker, assisted by Grand Vice-President John fV. Steinback, Grand HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. 81 Lecturer, M. A. Doni, Past President, Frank •J. Iligj^ins, uikI actinii; (irand Secretary, li. Luiistetlt. I'acilic, Callt'ornia and 15ear Flag Parlurs were represented. President Harmon, of tlie Historic Parlor, California No. 1, occupied the chair during the initiatory ceremonies, siip- })orted by CTrand Lecturer Dorn and Messrs. Yale and Shannahan, of San Francisco, and other Grand and Acting Grand otHcers. At the close of the initiatory ceremonies the follow- ing officers were installed: Past President, H. L. Hranthaver; President, Geo. Honior Meyer; First Vice President, W. F. Russell; Second Vice President, L. W. Juilliard; Third Vice President, R. A. Harris; Recording Secretary, Emmet Seawell; Financial Secretary, George P. Duncan; Ti'easurer, George Hood, Jr; Marshal, Aubrey iiarham; Inside Sentinel, Alpheus Reed; Outside Sentinel, E. B, Rohrer; Executive Committee, Chas. M. Gstrum, J. McReynolds and John W. Lambert. After the installation there was an entertainment which passed most pleasantly. Messrs. Steinback, Higgins, Deck- er, Dorn and Lnnstedt, Hartuian, Meyer and Jefferies, making timely and eloquent ad- dresses. P'ollowing is a complete list of the present otHcers and members of Western Star Parlor No. 28, in the order of their admission into the parlor : Ufticers — Geo. I). Duncan, P. P.; W. F. iius- sell. P.; Don Mills, 1st V. P.; T. J. Hutchinson, 2d V. P.; John McMinn, Jr., 3d V. P.; J. H. Adams, R. S.; L. W. Juilliard, F. S.; Geo. Hood, Jr., Treasurer; F. (4. Gerichten, Marshal; J. W. Irwin, I. S.: Chas. Underhill, O. S. ; John Hood, W. 1!. Atterbury, H. L. Hranthaver, Trustees. Members — (ieo. H. Meyer, R. A. Harris, R. A. Radger, J. A. Harham, J. M. McReynolds, J. W. Lambert, II. Pariiey, W. M. Duncan, John Creagh, W. H. ilanion, W. M. Irwin; G. J. Rarnett, Emmet Seawell, J. W.Adams, J. F. R. Cook, Douglas I>adger, W. A. Ford, C. H. Holmes, Jr., J. S. Childers, F. R. McCutchin, R. L. Adams, F. (i. (Jerichten, J. N. Norris, W. S. I'. Coulter, C. V. Tupper, Dan P. Carter, H. (t. IJahman, E. P. Colgan, M. F. Ilauck; J. S. Ross, Julian Ilolman, R. D. Cannon, W. E. Ilealey, L. W. Jiurris, W. R. Carithers, W. T. Spridgeon; J. P. Overton, R. A. Long, Wm. Wilkins, J. S. Titus, Jr., M. II. Durbin, F. S. Lowell. On Admission Day, September 1), 1885, the National Sons of the Golden West had a grand celebration at Santa Rosa. Every Parlor in the State was represented. There were about 1,000 Native Sons in the procession, mariiiig time to the inspiring music of nine brass bands. It was a gala day long to be remembered. The liter- ary e.\ercises were held at the Santa Rosa Athe- naMim. J. II. McGee delivered the address of welcome, and Governor Stonenian spoke of pioneer times. The annual address was delivered by Charles T. Weller. It was as follows: His Excellency the Gocernor — Ladies and (Jentlemen — Natice Sons of the Golden West: Fifty years ago a lonely herdsman looking over the (piet harbor of Yerba J>uena, watching the waves as they lazily drifted up to the shore, kissed the sand and then receded to the boson) of their mother, Ocean, watching the priests as they went about their ditferent tasks in the little mission, whilst over all shone the rays of an almost tropical sun, bathing the sand plains with its radiant splendor and glorifying the good fathers as they taught their little wards of the life which was beyond. To this watcher, statiding carelessly there in the sunshine, no dream of the future sjilcudur of that scene could come. Had you tolil him of a time but a few years distant, when thou- sands of men from all the nations of the earth would crowd u)mn that sand, he would have thought you mad, for what was there to cause this human floods . Nothing but vast sandy plains and the everlasting hills — mute monu- ments of the Creator's power — presented them- selves to the eye. Surely this was not a land that would tempt a man to leave the fertile hills and valleys of the East and l)rave all dangers to reach its barren shores. lIlsTonV (IF SdNOMA LUIUNTY. Trnly, tlie priests had come. For a hundred years their missions liad been planted on the coast and they had endured privation, suffering, yea, even deatli itself for the cause they held so dear; but the world was used to this sight. Where in ail the earth had the zeal oi" the holy fathers not carried them? No journey was too hard for them to attempt — ready at the word to tlie Calit'urnians. Tlie c.\[)lorcrs were be- bicjjed for some four days near Monterey, but tlie Californians did not care to jiusli the iigliting, !-o at the end of tliis time Fi'einont and liis men took up tlieir route for Oregon. They were soon recalled, however, for the time liad at last arrived, vvlien California should come under the protection of the stars and sti'ipes. The (Tovernment at Washington had long cast eager glances westward, and on the 2d day of July, ISit), Commodore Sloat, on board tlie frigate Savannah, entered the harbor of Monte- rey. His position was a trying one, for if lie did not take possession of the country in the name of tlie United States, other powers might interfere. At the time the Sarannah left Ma- zatlan for Monterey, the English man-of-war C'lilliiKjiriioi/ t-Ailtid from San Bias for the same ])ort. It was indeed a race between the Uiiitetl States and England on which perhaps depended the future of California. At this time Sloat did iKitknuw that war had lieen declared between the United States and Mexico, lie therefore hesitated to take a step which must provoke hostilities. Before this, indeed, the shock of war had been felt here on your own soil, and the bear flag had fluttered in the soft breezes of the Sonoma hills. This occasion, howexer, was ditl'erent; the power of the United States was about to Ije invoked and woe to those who dared its might. At last, on the 7th day of July, 181-f5, Com- modore Sloat raised the American Hag and de- clared California henceforth a part of the United States, and on the lOtli of the same month the stars and stripes reached Sonoma and were sub- stituted for the l)ear tiag, under which our fathers won their tirst victory. Much was still to be done ere the (juestiou was entirely settUnl, for Flores issued a prdclamation to the Califor- nians and gathered together some three hundred of them and made a last stand for independence. This emeute was soon tpielled, however, and the United States were in undisturbed possession of Uj)per California. In the spring ot 18-18 the treaty of peace.was ratified between our country and Mexico, and early in the following year came a great change to California. On the 19th day of January, 184:'J, James AV. Marshall, standing by a stream among the mountains of the present county of El Dorado, saw something glittering before him in the water. He gazes for a moment, then knows that it is gold, sought after through all ages. The secret is kept for a little time but soon gets abroad, and flies on the wings of the wind to the uttermost ends of the earth. Then commences to break upon our coast that great tide of hu- manity which flowing from all (piarters of the globe passed through the golden gate on to the golden shore. Never in the world's history has such a sight been presented as that which now broke upon the vision of the ipiiet inhabitants of California. The best and worst elements of the older civi- lization were set down on the sandy shore of the old mission Dolores, there to work out the eternal law of the survival of the fittest. The times were most auspicious for the bringing together of the bravest inanhood in this western world. The war with Mexico had closed and thousands of young men with the laurels of victory upon their brows and used to a life of adventure, were more than willing to risk their all in search of the hidden treasure concealed in the mountain fastnesses of the New El Dorado. There never was, there never can be a i)raver, truer race of men than those Argonauts, the pioneers of California, bound together as they were by no ordinary ties, far from home and kindred, with no family fireside around which to gather, with nothing to call forth the better side of man's nature, engaged as each man was in the wild search for gold, still their friendship was heroic in its trust and faithful unto death. And was it nut natural that it should be sn'. These men lunl encountered peril and danger ursroBY OF sonoma county. side l)y side, liad kept guard at midnight on the liarren phiins of Mexico and stood shoulder to slioulder at the attack on Monterey. A thou- sand times had they stood face to face with death and never quailed. Cemented by such ties, what wonder that there existed between these men a trust we can only imagine. The name of the pioneeis of California has ever been a synonym for all that was l)ravest and truest in manhood. At this time through all the broad land, from the Atlantic to the Mississippi, and from the Great Lakes to the Gulf, the cry was " West- ward-hol" Old and young alike spurred on by the hope of bettering their condition, left the (piiet steady life they had known so long and set forth with brave hearts for the new El Dorado. The sturdy jS'^ew England lad leaving his old home among the hills where he and his fathers before him had scarcely been alile to make both ends meet, went side by side with the college graduate fresh from the hills of Harvard. Whilst from the plantations of the South and from the farms of the then West came a human tide slowly forcing its way across the broad plains and over the ocean with bnt one thought, one dream, one aspiration — that of reaching California. How sad it is to realize that so few of all these countless thousands found the suc- cess they hoped for on these shores. I never cross the beautiful Bay of San Fran- cisco with its bright waters reflecting the rosy tints of the setting sun that my thoughts do not turn to the olden days, and looking out through the Golden Gate I can picture a gallant ship, with all sails set, slowly coming into port. Her sides are weather-stained with the hard usage she has encountered in beating around the Horn, and her passengers are more than weary with their months' of continement. Yet the smile of hope is on every face, for at last they are in sight of the long sought land. Then the eager wish to get ashore and into the mountains to search for gold. After that I ah! who can tell their fate! A few successful in their search, but the great majority going on fi-oni one place to another until at last they sink exhausted by the wayside, and the wife and children afar off in the little home on the rough New England hillside wait in vain for a step which never comes; for a voice that is silent forever; wait until even hope dies away and they know that their loved one is lost to them. And this was the sad fate of very many who, setting forth with the hope of procuring that which would gladden the hearts of the loved ones at home, found only a rough grave upon the mountain side, and the sleep which knows no waking. With the vast influx to this coast of Ameri- cans from all parts of the United States came a desire to secure the admission of California iuto the Union, but this was a favor more easily asked for than obtained. At the very threshold of Congress this ambition was met with that old question which had caused so much bitter- ness in the past and which was soon to bathe all the land in blood. Slavery stood in the way. It had long been the custom in order to main- tain a political balance of power for Congress to admit two States at the same time — one beluga slave State, the other free; but this was impos- sible at this time. No other State stood knock- ing at the doors of the National Capitol, and the question had to be squarely met. Attempts to give a territorial form of govern- ment to the new country acquired from Mexico had failed, three bills having such an object had been defeated in a previous session of Congress. And in 1848, Senator Douglas, of Illinois, in- troduced a bill admitting California into the Union. The battle waged long and violent, all the old passions were revived and sectional spirit ran as high as during the time of the Missouri Compromise or the Wilmot Proviso. Mr. Douglas did all that man could do, but the opposition was too strong, and after an all night session, on Sunday morning, March 4, 184rU, at 7 o'clock, the Senate adjourned and California was still left without a State government. In the meantime the people of California had not been idle. When it became known that Congress had failed to grant any relief, General History op soNo.ua coi/Nry 85 Riley called upon the people to elect delegates to form a Constitution for the State. A conven- tion met for this purpose on the third day of Septeinhei-, 1849, at Montert'v, and was in ses- sion some six weeks evolving the first Constitu- tion of California. This was soon after ratified by the people, and in December, 1849, the first session of the Legislature met at San Jose. The question of the admission of California came before Congress again at its ne.\t session, and the fight was renewed with the same bitter- ness. Early in March her Senators and Repre- sentatives were in Washington, asking for admission to the councils of the nation. All summer the question engaged the giant minds in the Senate, and at times the issue seemed most doubtfhl, but at last the friends of the new State conquered, and on the 9th day of Septemlier, 1850, President Fillmore signed the bill admitting California into the Union. To-day we are gathered together to celebrate the thirty-fifth anniversary of our admission in- to the sisterhood of States. Standing in this presence, viewing all the grand accomplishments of these few j'ears, it is almost impossible for us to realize that it is jiot all a dream; for thirty- five years is as nothing in the life of a country, and what wonders has our fair State not seen? Fiom a few missions scattered along the coast have sprung a dozen cities, and the old Mission Dolores has grown to lie the empire city of the AVest, sitting secure upon her hills by the Gold- en Gate, proud mistress of the Pacific. To her has come trilmto fi'mn the Orient and through her gateway gn Inrth ships whose sails whiten every sea. ('(nild but the sjiirit of some old father revisit the scenes where he had worked in his little garden among the siind hills he would indeed thiid< that tiie age of miracles had come onee more. Where thirty-five years ago were a few scattei-ed ranches with herds of wild cattle running over the vast plains are now thriving towns and beautiful farms. In no other land has nature been so lavish in her gifts to the children of men. With us all climes seem to meet and blend, and the hardy pine of the northern woods whispers iieside the orange blossom of the south. We have often been ridiculed for boasting so much of our climate. Vet 1 am sure we are fully justified in the facts. Stretching as our State does for hundreds of miles along the coast, with its fine harl)ors, that of San Francisco one of the best in the world, and with a land capable of growing almost every product of the tem- perate and torrid zones — the past is but an earnest of what the future has in store for us. Great as has been our progress during the past thirty-five years, I look forward with a confi- dent hope of yet grander achievements. With all our vast resources scarcely un- touched, with great mines of wealth yet un- worked, thousands of acres of fertile soil uncultivated, needing only the hand of man to cause it to spring forth and to blossom like the rose, we as a people are not faithful to the great charge entrusted to us, if we are satisfied with the glory of the past and content with the work done by our fathers. It is our saci'ed duty to go forward in the the patli laid out for iis by the pioneers, building up the prosperity an; I am sure I can answer for yy their efforts has she been placed within a few short years in a jiosition second to none in the HISTORY OF SONOMA COtTNTY. sister-liood of States. Situated as we are, upon the utmost western border of the Republic, far from the center of Federal authority, we have not received the same amount of comfort and assistance from the general government that our sister States have enjoyed. Yet our loyalt}' and love for our common country has never wavered in the past nor will it ever falter in the future. Each star in tlie flag is dear to our hearts and we are content to bide the time when we shall be better under- stood. Standing at the gateway of the East, with the manners, customs and civilization of an alien race, old when our world was born, menac- ing our homes and institutions, we have been forced to bar the way to this servile flood, tiiat we might protect our own flresides. To the rest of the world California bids a most liearty welcome. On our great fertile plains is room for all, with enough of food to All the hungry of other lands. To those sitting in the darkness of a despot- ism kejit alive by force in the old world, we oft'er all the blessings which liberty ever brings to its happy possessor. Founded, as this State was by men of every clime under heaven, we have absolutely no prej- udices, judging all by their works and making none responsible for the errors of his ancestors. With these blessings on every hand and with the vast resources of our soil, there is practically no limit to our possibilities as a people. A grand destiny awaits our State. May each of us be prepared to act well his part with lionor to himself and his fatherland. To you, ]iioneer fathers, we turn this day with hearts full of gratitude for the l)lessings you by ydur valor have conferred upon us. To those who having passed over the divide, look down upon us from the heiglits of eternal bliss, guide, we pray you, the destinj- of the State you loved so well. To others who are still with us, we wish all of hapi)iness and peace. May their last days be indeed tlieir best ones, and when the sun, for them, shall for the last time shed liis brilliant rays upon the land they lield so dear, may its declining light guide them safely into the eter- nal rest. And now to thee. Oh, California, l)rightest and purest star in all the galaxy to us, we, thy children, do on this day renew our fealty to thee. Loving thee as no other people can love thee, springing from thy bosom and nurtured on thy breast, we pledge our lives, our honors to the pi'eservation of thy liberty in all its pristine strength ! May he be greatest among us wlio does the most for thee. And through all the cycles of the ages, God grant that thy fair shield shall shine far out over the western waters in all its radiant splen- dor. At the close of this eloquent address, (ieorge Homer Meyer, the gifted Sonoma County Jioet, recited the following poem: THE KAISIXO OF THE FT.AOS. With the flag of all others we love and reveie. And whose stars float above us to-day, Let us blend the worn folds of the brave pioneer, While we wreathe it with laurel and bay. With the names of our father.s its colors entwine, And no shadow its history mars, And to-day do we hold it as fitting to shine, By the side of the Stripes and the Stars. Tho' all rugged and rude on that far-a-way morn Was the banner they lifted in air, Yet the deed marked the day when an Empire was born, For the voice of God's Freedom was there. And the hands that decreed that that Freedont should be, Were as rude witli their labor-worn scars As the ensign they raised — yet it flo.ated .la free, As the flag of the Stripes and the Stars. And then far to the south where the swift breezes jilay O'er the wave-broken face of the tide. O'er the crests of the seas with their wild locks ol spray, Lo ! two stately sea-warriors ride. And a banner blood-red from one lofty mast flows. With St. George's crossed, crimson-hued bars. While aflame in the .sunlight another tliere glows— The bright flag of the Stripes and the Stars. But sweet tidings have come to the chiefs o'er the sens, A dark glow as of joy lights theii eyes; IIIsniRY OF SONOMA COUNTY. Now like light is the canvas flung wide In the breeze, For a race, with an Empire the prize. And now strain every hallianl and bend every sail. And this day prove the strength of your spars — Sliall (he Cross and the Crown of proud England pre- vail, Or the flag of the Stripes and the Stars? Bnt one springs to the front — like a shaft from the bow Does she cleave thro' the billow3' spray, And the foam in her track, like the pathway of snow. O'er the wind driven sea marks her waj-. The wild waves lash her siiles till her masts liend and reel, And her mighty frame trembles and jars. Hut she rises erect on her iron shod keel. And above Hoats the Stripes and the Stars. And on, on ! ever on ! the wild sea rushes by, While the Briton comes following fast — And there, gleaming before them, the green valleys lie. For the wild race is ending at last. And now pause, ship of Britain, the contest is o'er, Lower down your vain canvas and spars, For there, rising in triumph above the green shore. Floats the flag of the Stripes and the Stars. And now speed the glad tiy the court, in ac- cordance with the above verdict that tlie forego- ing sentence be carried into etfect." It may seem strange to the reader tiiat the jury ]ia8sed sentence, hut they could, and in case of grand larceny, a jury could pass sentence of death; as they did, vide Tanner vs. the people of the State of California, 2nd Col. Re- ports. As yet everything was in a chaotic fornuitive state. The civil authority related back to mili- tary authority. And yet the government seems to have been efficient and conducive to good order and justice. Tlie penalties imposed may n(j\v seem severe and even cruel, but we must remember that in taking up civilization where Mexican occupancy ended and American occu- pancy began perfection in either civil or crimi- nal practice would not be expected. There had to be a gradual shading up to a more advanced stage of civilization. In due time this came under the benign influence of American rule and the administration of American law. The whipping post as a punishment for petty crimes and the gallows. as the punishment for grand larceny marks the dividing line between Cali- fornia as a conquered province of Mexico, and a star in the galaxy of the States of the Union of the United States of America. If at first her justice was administered with a seemingly vigorous hand, it must be remembered that the civil and criminal authority related back to the military that ruled with the sword, the keen edge of which did not allow the gordian knots of law to impede the ends of swift and summary punishment for infractions of law. As seem- ingly severe as this administration of justice may seem to those of later days, it must liP borne in mind that the influx to California of a vast horde of gold-seekers, had precipitated upon this coast a people cosmopolitan in a degree never l)efore concentrated upon God's footstool; and nothing short of the most Vigorous methods of jurisprudence would meet the exigencies of the times. The interregnum between military and civil rule in California was a period fraught with many dangers to the weal of California, and it is a subject of congratulation that it was tided over with so few mistakes and errors. I'ut the military rule liad tilled its appointed office and the people came under the dominion of civil rule. California was now under the peaceful folds of the stars and stripes. On February 2, 184-8. a treaty of peace and friendship was formulated attTuadalupe Hidalgo; ratified by the President of the United States on March IG, 18-48; ex- changed at Queretaro, May 30, and was finally promulgated on the 4th of July ot the same year, by President Polk, and attested by Secre- tary of State, James lUielianan. In June, 1849, a proclamation was published calling an election to be held on the 1st of August, to elect dele- gates to a general convention to formulate a State constitution, and for filling the offices of judge of tlie superior court, prefects, sul)- prefects, and first alcalda as judge of the first instance, such appointments to be made by General Riley after being voted for. The Sonoma district elected as delegates to that con- vention General Yallejo, Joel Walker, R. Seniple and L. W. Boggs. The number of del- egates was fixed at thirty-seven, and they were to meet in convention at Monterey on the 1st of September, 184!l. The constitutional convention assembled at Monterey at the appointed time and R. Semjde, delegate from the Sonoma district, was chosen chairman. The session lasted six weeks. It seems to have been conducted with ability and decorum. A seal of the State was adopted with the motto " Eureka;'' a provision for the morals and education of the people of the State was made: the boundary (piestion between Califor- BISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. nia and Mexico deteniiined, and last, but not least, slavery was forever proiiibited within the boundary of the State. The constitution so framed, was submitted to the people for ratitication at an election held on the 13th of November. At the same election State officers were to lie elected. Tlie vote for the constitution was 12,064 for, and eleven against its adoption. For State officers there were two tickets in the field, both called the peoples' ticket. The first was: for Governor, John A. Sutter; for Lieutenant-Governor, John McDougall ; for Representatives in Congi'ess, William E. Shannon, Peter Ilalsted. The second was: Peter H. Burnett, for Governor; for Lieutenant-Governer, John McDougall; for Representatives in Congress, Edward Gilbert and George W. Wright. The result of this election was: Peter Burnett, (Governor; John McDougall, Lieutenant-Governor; and Edward Gilbert and George W. Wright sent to Congress. The total vote polled by Sonoma district in this election was 552 votes, of which 424 were for Jiurnett. For the State Senate the contest was between General M. G. Yallejo and Jonas Spect, a Meth- odist clergyman, afterward a resident of Two Rock Valley foi' many years. At first Jonas Spect was given his seat on the claim that he had received a majority of the votes cast at a precinct somewhere in the district called " Lar- kin's Rancho." But it seems that Spect had reckoned without his host, for when authentic returns came in from Larkin's Ranch it proved that Yallejo had lieen elected by eighteen ma- jority, and Spect had to vacate his seat in favor of Vallejo. The duly elected Representatives to the Assembly from the district of Sonoma was J. E. Brackett and J. S. Bradford. On the 15th of December, 1849, this, the first legislative body convened unill for $250, for HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. iielt)ing the siijiervisors tu get legally out of 80110111a; he was allowed slUO. Tlie hoard thought they did must of the work — at least two-thirds of it. Jiin Williamson modestly put in a hill of $10, for getting away with the records, which was allowed, without a groan, as it ought to have heen. "The first said about a jail was December 13, 1855, when Supervisor Harrison, of Geyser- ville, proposed to cast about for plans; the matter was laid over. •' The editor of the Bullitin. visited Santa Rosa in October, a month after the removal, and it is pleasant to know how it a])pears to one so capable of estimating it. Mr. Cox says: ' Our friends at Santa Rosa are displaying considerable energy in building np the town. We notice, among other evidences of enterprise, the partial erection of a court-house. It is a pretty building, and. though seemingly small to those accustomed to the palatial four-story edi- fices of Sonoma, is suthcieutly large for the pur- pose. The citizens of the town certainly possess, in an eminent degree, the great ingredients of success, industry and enterprise.' This is a handsome tribute to the early Santa Rosans. " The next reference to the subject appears November 30th, in which it is stated that > .ludge McKinstry has decided the mandamus to remove the county seat in favor of Santa Rosa. Citizens, let the question repose." "On Tuesday, October 2d, 1854, the Court of Sessions, Judge Frank W. Shattuck presid- ing, met for the first time, in the old Masonic Hall, opposite the Santa Rosa House. Judge I*. R. Thompson and James Prewett were elected Associate Justices. If his Honor, the presiding Judge, did not make a joke on the novelty of the situation, then he was less witty as a ' wise young Judge ' than he now^ is as the editor of the Petaluma Courier. " Iloen, Ilahinan and Carrillo, it will be re- membered, had given bonds to the Board, that they would have a building suitable for the pur- poses of the county ready by the 3d day of J^ovember. This building, which stood on the ground now occupied by C. D. Frazee's drug store, on Fourth street, near the corner of Meii- \ docino, was rapidly pushed, and was finished in December. The IJoard had to furnish it, and the following funny order aj)pears upon the minutes on the 12tli day of December, 1854: •• ' It is ordered that the clerk be authorized to receive sealed proposals for the construction of twelve benches for the court-room, seven and one-half feet long, and to be made of two-inch stuff, and fourteen inches wide, with strong backs to them, and the clerk be authorized to I set up for sealed proposals, to be delivered on the 26th inst.' " Whether the clerk ' set up ' all night to receive these proposals is not anywhere stated. "This temporary court-house moved down Fourth street in 1875, to make room for im- provements. It was mounted on two trucks, drawn by a big, six mule team. The mules stuck with it, just oj^posite the recorder's ofKce, on Fourth street, and it was pulled out by four little, half-breed mustangs, belonging to James Shaw\ of the Guilicos Valley, all of which is facetiously related by the chroniclers of that day. "The clerk was, at this December meeting of the Roard of Supervisors, authorized to receive deeds from Julio Carrillo for lots 406 and 407, upon which the court-house now stands. The lots donated by Ilahman and Iloen were sold at auction, and were purchased by Mr. Iloen, the original owMier. "On the 27th of Deceinljer II. V. MuUison was ordered to make a plan of the jail by June 8th, 1855. The Board took no further steps in the matter until that time, when they deter- mined to build both court-house and jail. The plan of D. II. Huston was adopted, for which he was paid $150, and the lower story of the pres- ent court-house, not including sheriff's office, jail or Judge's chambers, was contracted for with James M. Philips; the building was to be set on the lots 406 and 407, deeded to the county by Julio Carrillo. "In iS'ovember, 1855. H. A. Green's execii- HISTORY OP SONOMA (JOUNTY. 97 tors presented a bill for the old Sonuma two- iind-a-l)alf-per-ceiit-a-inouth-adol)e, aiiiouiitiiig to .<^10,843. The Board did not see it as the executor did — they finally offered !t^3,250 to settle the claim; it was accepted. The Hoard offered the old seat of justice, ' Casa de Adobe," for sale, and it was purchased by the Sonoma Lodge, I. C). U. F., No. 27, for their hall. The erection of a one-story court-house and jail was going on during the summer and tall of 1S55. A >pecial meeting of tlie l>oard was calKil to receive it December 28, 1855. They met, but would not receive the building, on the ground that it was not built in accordance with ])lans and specilications. Uoth sides got mad. The IJoard offered $7,000 to settle, which was promptly refused. On the 8th of February, 1855, the F)oard went up to !B10,400, which was accej)ted by the contractor, and the county took possession of tlie premises. On the Gtli of March Judge W. Clmrchman, J. A. lieynolds, A. C. niedsoe and D. McDonald were appointed a cumniittcc to furnish the building at an ex- pense of .i;l,OOU. A. further appropriation of !r^500, for tlie same purpose, was made. Total cost of building, ^14,400; and furnishing, !?1,500. '• After this there was no more court-house trouble for four years, when it broke out again, the same old cry — more room; same trouble in getting plans, and same coniplications in settling with contractors was to follow, but all this was in the, then, future. The proposition this time was, as the saihjrs would say, to put an ' upper deck" on the one-story court-house of 1855, and attacli a jail and hospital as tender. It was ordered to be done on the 12th of May, 1851*. Uids were received on the 14th day of June, 185U. Tiie contract was let to Mr. i'hilips and Joseph Nouges; Samuel West was ajjpointcd sujicrintcndent; tiie contract price was .^^15,000. The building was to be completed by Christmas; that ))ortion over the jail was originally in- tended for a iiospital. The work pi-ogresseil iluring the summer of 1859. On the 19th of November the Board made an order that, after- ward put tliLMH to much trouble; it was as fol- lows: " 'That the superintendent of construction of public buildings, Samuel AVest, be empowered to make such changes in j)lan of jail and court- house as in his judgment is necessary, having in view the best interests of the county." Under this order radical changes were made. '•The Work was finished in January, 1800, and a special meeting of the Hoard was calleil to re- ceive the building and settle with contractors. '•The contractors furnished the following bill : Original lontiatt $1.5,000 00 Charges extra 25,891 3:J By county lu-ilers received iJllT.OOO Work not done I,8l:j- .f40,S!ll -l-.i 18,813 00 liahince due uontrai-tors $22,078 33 " The Ijoard could not settle, and John I). Grant, II. R. Leonard and Volney E. Howard were selected to arbitrate. A large number of witnesses were called, and finally the sum of !r;6,000 was awarded to the contractors — making $26,500 paid contractors in all. Cost of arbi- tration, paid by county, $1,(501; salary of Super- intendent West, $1,200. Total cost of building, $29,601.30. " The building was occupied in ISliO, and all seemed well. lUit the Santa Kosans had hardly got througli admiring the blindfolded statue of Justice with equal scales, which surmounted the new court-house, when they found they had something to occupy them much nearer • terra firnia." '• The question of removing the county seat always breaks out when there is any change made in the court-house. The trouble with the contractors and the expense of the improve- ments brought on a violent attack of this sym- pathetic disease. Hefore the Santa IJosans knew it they were face to face with the same issue they had formerly made witli the good j)eople of the town of Sonoma. "Hon. Henry Edgerton introtlucedabill in the Legislature of 1861, in A])ril, providing that tlie question of removing the county seat of HISTUltY OF av^OMA U0U2iTY Sonoma should be voted on at the next general election. He put it through under whip and spur, and the Santa Ilosans were put upon the defense for their right to the new c-ourt-house, after all their trouble in building it. They met the issue fairly and squarely, and on the Ith day of Septeniljer their title to the county seat was again clinelied by a direct and decisive vote of the people. If the Santa Kosans had been at all alarmed, the .-e(|\iel to this agitation proved that they had no occasion to be so, as the tabu- lated vote upon the question will show: for re- moval, 814; against removal, 1,632. " For twenty years after this verdict there was no further county seat agitation. " In 1866 a new roof was put un the court- house, and it was plastered on the outside, at a total cost of $2,600. In 1867 the jail was re- built and improvements were made at a cost of .f8,'J99. Total cost of building, with furniture, about $60,000. Tiie old structure was recently sold for $26,000, which leaves the net cost of the court-house to the t-ounty $34,000. " The first district judge of Sonoma County Avas Jiobert Hopkins. He was practicing law in Sonoma in 184n. when the Legislature met in San Jose. There was a movement on foot to attach the Valley of Sonoma to Napa County. The citizens of Sonoma sent the Hon. George Pearce and Mi-. Hopkins as a committee to countci-act this scheme. AVhen they got to San Jose they found that the Legislature was about to appoint a district judge for the district who was a non-resident. Mr. I^earce proposed his colleague Mr. Hopkins on the committee, and had him appointed ti) the ottice. They returned home, having accomplished their object and also securing the appointment of district "The Hon. E. W. McKinstry succeeded Mr. Hopkins. He served a number of years, and is now a distinguished member of the Supreme Court of the State of California. "Judge J. B. Southard succeeded Judge Mc- Kinstry, and he was followed by Judge \V. C. Wallace and Jackson Temple. The superior judges succeeded under the new constitution to the jurisdiction of the district judges." Under the new organization of the court Jackson Temple and John (r. Pj-essley occupied the bench. Judge Temple having been elected one of the Supreme Judges of the State, Thomas Rutledge was appointed to fill the vacancy. At the election of 1888 S. K. Donglierty was elected to that position and now, with J. C Pressley, discharges the duties of that court. Lender the old county judge system we tind that the following named gentlemen served in that position in the order in which they are named: II. A. Green, Charles P. AVilkins, J. E. McNair, Frank Shattuck, P. R. Thompson, "William Churman, C. AV. Langdon, A. P. Overton and John G. Pressley. Sonoma County had so increased in popula- tion and wealth that all saw and admitted that her county buildings were inadequate to the county's need. .Vfter the usual amount of fric- tion and sparring about location and cost of court-house, the plaza of Santa Ilosa was selected as the site and the cost of building was fixed not to exceed $80,000. This was in 1883. Bids for constructing the building were advertised for, and the contract finally awarded to ]\[essrs. Carle ct Croly, at $80,000, with the condition that the building was to be cDinpleted by the 1st of Januar}', 1885. ( >n the 7th of May, 1884, the corner-stone of this edifice was laid, with im^ posing ceremonies, and in due time reached com- pletion. It is ornate in appearance, and a credit to the people of Sonoma County. The building is classic in design and built jarincipally of stone, brick and iron. Its form approximates the (xreek cross with projecting center (^and flanks), having a dome. The building has four peudi- ments, each surmounted by a figure of the God- dess of Justice. The dome is topped with a figure of Minerva. It will measure 107 by 115 feet, exclusive of porticoes, stairs and all other projections; besides the basement and dome, it is two full stories in height. Base- ment 12 feet, first story 15 feet, court-rooms in second story 22 feet, all other rooms in upper ■'^ijisci lor\orr\a ^our\ty (^oupt J1o\j§q L.ofC. HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNT F. story lU feet, and comprises business and ju- dicial apartments for the entire county govern- ment. The approaches to the first story of the building are granite staircases and !~teps 2i feet in width; these land in porticoes laid in Mosaic. Tiien cume the grand entrances into the corri- .iurs li by 112 feet. On the left are the clerk's otiices, one 21 feet 3 inches by 53 feet 8 inches; the other 20 I'cct 7 inches by '2U feet 8 inches, connected t(.)getht'r by an archway; ne.\t the supervisors, room 21 feet 3 inches by 38 feet, also connected with clerk's room; on the right the recorder's offices, 21 feet 3 inches by 73 feet 9 inches, and 20 feet 7 inches by 29 feet 3 inches; the Super- intendent of public instruction's room, 18 feet (i inches by 21 feet 3 inciies; the grand jury room, 21 feet inciies by 21 feet 3 inches; stair- case leading to court-rooms and offices above, and also to the basement. In the upper story are two Superior Court rooms, one 38 feet 4 inches by 59 feet 4 inches, and one 36 feet 8 inches by 54 feet, two judges' chambers 14 feet 10 inciies by 20 feet 11 inches, two jury rooms 14 feet 10 inches by 20 feet 11 inches, each connected with the court-rooms; district attorney's rooms 21 feet 7 inches by 27 feet 2 inches, and 15 feet 11 inches by 19 feet (> inches; hall and stairways 19 by 43 feet; janitor's rooms and stairway leading to dome 15 feet 9 inches by 19 feet; this staircase leads to attic, thence a spiral stair- case to upper section of dome; the dome is 127 I'ect hitih from the grade line of Fourth street; in the basement is the sheriff's rooms 21 feet 3 inches by 35 feet 5 inches, one 14 feet 6 inches by 27 feet, and store room 19 by 21 feet 3 inches; treasurer's office 23 feet inches by 21 feet 3 inches, containing a fire and burglar proof vault, 7 by 8 feet; surveyor's rooms 17 feet 2 inches by 21 feet 3 inciies, and 13 feet 6 inches Uy 21 I'cct 3 inches; W. C. 21 hy 20 feet 7 inches; boiler room below, same size; the jail 38 by 58 feet 8 inches, with 12 iron cells 7 by 7 feet, and three 5 by 7 feet; said jail is lined with plate iron. In the construction of this [ edifice, it required eight hundred thousand (800,000) brick, two hundred and forty (240) tons of dressed granite; one hundred and thirty- seven (137) tons of wrought iron, thirty (30) tons of cast iron, three thousand nine hundred and twenty-two (3.922) feet of corrugated iron — besides lumber and other materials. The founda- tions alone rei^uired eight huiidrcd and fifty (850) . perch of basalt rock. The county is subdivided into fourteen town- ships as follows: .Vnaly, Bodega, Cloverdalc, Knight's Valley, Mendocino, Ocean, I'etaluma, Redwood, liussian lliver, Washington, Salt Point, Santa Itosa, Sonoma and Vallejo. The county government is managed by a Board of Supervisors comprised of five members, each representing a supervisorial district. The county is at ])resent represented in the Senate by E. C. Hinshaw; and in the Assembly by J. AV. Ragsdale, Robert Howe, and Plielix Mulgren. The following are the present county officers: J. (t. Pressley and S. K. Dougherty, Judges Superior Court; George Hall, Court Reporter; John Goss, Court Commissioner; Albert G. Burnett, District Attorney; L. W. Juilliard, County Clerk; W. F. Wines, Deputy Clerk; W. S. Coulter, Deputy; E. P. Colgan, Sherifi'; J. D. Earnett, LTnder-Sheriff; M. V. Vaiidcr- hoof and 11. Groshong, Deputies; P. N. Stofen, Treasurer; A. P. Moore, Auditor and Recorder; A. P. Mulligan, Deputy- Auditor and Recorder; Mrs. F. McG. Martin, Sup't. Public Schools; W. Longmore, Assessor; P. R. Davis, Surveyor; J. Tivnen, Coronor and Public Administrator; Benj. (ilark, (4. F. .Mien, M. K. Cady, G. V. Davis, F. A. Smith, Board of Supervisors. nusroJiV OF fONOMA VOVNTY. CHAPTER X. I'xHNDAKIKS — KnKE^TS AM) \ AI.I.HVf fEOGIJAPHICALLY coiisidertMl, Snnoiua 1 County occupies onu uf tliu most favored positions of any county in the State. Her southern limb rests upon San Pabhj P)ay. tlie connecting link between tlie Straits of ('ai-(|uine/. and the ]>ay of San Francisco, lieaching in- land there are two tidal streams, the Petal unia Creek and Sonoma Creek, tlie former being nav- igable to steam and sailing crafts a distance U|» from the bay of twelve miles, and the latter a distance of about seven miles. These arteries of water transportation are of incalculal)le value to the agriculturists and ihiii-vineu of the sur- rounding country, insuring to them for all time to Come cheap transportation of their |ii-oducts to San Francisco, the great metropolis of the Pacific coast, that is only distant from the south- ern limits of the county about twenty miles. Along these tidal streams are vast areas of marsh land, much of which has already, and all of which in time, will be reclaimed and brought in subjection to profitable cultivation. The meanderings of Petaluiua Creek northward from San Pablo Hay to within four miles of Petaluma is the boundary between Sonoma and Marin counties, where the boundary line leaves tidal salt water and follows the serpentine course of the San Antonio Creek northward about nine miles, to the Lagoona San Antonio (once a tule marsh l>ut now drained and under cultivation), anil thence in a direct line to the head of the Kstero Americano, near Valley Ford, a tidal stream, that tending westerly, debouches in the Pacific Ocean aljout six miles ilistant from the latter place. From this jwint to the mouth of the (lualala River, a distance of about thirty miles, Sonoma County has for her boundary the broad Piicitic. The boundary between Sonoma andMendocino counties commences at the month of the (iualala River and following its meander- ings about two miles to a point just above the confluence of South Gualala, takes a straight line easterly over the mountains, about twenty- four miles to the summit of Redwood Mountain, where, with a sliglit angle, but with a still easterly deflection, the line continues on and across the Russian River canon at a point four miles northward from Cloverdale, and in a straight line about twelve miles to the Lake ("ountv line on the summit of tiie Macuway Mountains. From this point, and at almost ricrht angles, the line of boundary between Sonoma County and Lake and Napa counties it rnus south in a straight line about forty-eight miles to the intersection of the boundary line between Napa and Solano counties; and from HISTORY OF SONOMA GOUNTT. 103 thence the boundiuy between Sonoma and Solano counties runs westerly, about six miles, to San F'ablo Bay, the place of beginning. It will tiius be seen that IVFarin County, with a l)road l)ase resting on tlie bays of San b'ran- ciscoand San Pablo, lays wedge-shaped l)etween Sonoma C'ounty and the Pacific Ocean, its north- ern and narrow end terminating at the Kstero Americano, very near the middle of tiie western boundary of Sonoma. According to Bower's map of Sonoma County, which we believe to be substantially correct, i*' is seventy miles in a straight line from the extreme southerly point of Sonoma County, on San Pablo Pa}-, to the Mendocino County line at the mouth of the (Inalala Piver, and its breadth gradually in- creases from about twenty miles at Petaluma, to about thirty-five miles, taking Cloverdale as the base of a straight line across. The fore- going is a correct statement of the present legal geograjihical boundaries of Sonoma County. Of course, like most newly organized communi- ties, she had contests over (lis])uted territorial jurisdiction, mention of which jiroperly belongs to the general history, in the chronological order in which they occurred. Sonoma County has an area of 1,550 S([nare miles, or about 992,000 acres, and ranks among counties in tiie State in point of territorial scope as seventh in magnitude. Within her borders could be placed some of the principalities of Europe, and even, at least, one of the older States of the Union, would find her l)oundaries a loose-fitting garment. A bird's-eye view of her topograph}' will reveal the secret of that wonderful progress and prosperity which has placed her in the front raidv among the counties of the State; for wliere in the wide worhl is presented in the same scope of teri'itory so varied and diversified a medley of soil, climate, scenery, and exhibitions of handiwork from Nature's laboratory as is to be found here? As stated at the outset, the southern ex- tremity of Sonoma County rests upon the northern t^hore of San Pablo Pay. At this ex- treme point a line drawn straight across from the ]\[arin County to the Napa County line would be about twelve miles in length, and incist of the distan<'e would be across marsh land, subject to overflow by spring tides. Radi- ating from this focal point are two chains of mountains'and one chain of hills. The Macuway Mountains, that extending northward form the boundary iietween Napa and Sonoma valleys, inland about thirty miles reach their crowning glory in Mt. St. Helena, in Napa County, with aTi altitude of 4,343 feet above sea level, and thence onward, forming the eastern background to Santa Rosa and Russian Itiver valleys, hold- ing in its embi-ace the far-famed Geyser Springs of Sonoma County, where its greatest elevation is Sulphur Peak, with an altitude of 3,470 feet. The Sonoma Mountains take their rise near San Pablo in the shape of smooth, grassy hills, but with increasing ruggedness to the north- ward, until at a point nearly east of, a!id about seven miles distant from Petaluma, they reach a height of 2,30(i feet. From that point they gradually shade off to the lower levels and break into a jumble of hills on the edge of the Santa Rosa plains just south of Santa Rosa. The range of hills referred to have no specific geographical name. They commence near the confluence of the San Anton and Petaluma creeks and running northward form the divide between the two valleys of like names. They do not rise to the diginity of mountains, and to the northward of Petaluma branching off in different directions form tlie southern curb of Two Rock Valley -the right wing ending in the undulating hills that mark the boundary between Petaluma and Santa Rosa ^' alleys and the left skirting Tomales Valley, ^larin County, until lost in the sand dunes around Tomales Pay. We have thus far bounded tiie valleys of the lower section of the county, and limned the rugged eastern back-ground to the Santa Posa and Russian River valleys and now we ap- l)roach the topography of a section of the county most difficult to describe, and yet it is a territory every part of wliich passed luuler our tilBfORY OF SONoMa C'OUNTY. vision more tiiaii thirty years ago. It is bounded on the east by the Santa Rosa Valley, on tlie north by Russian River, on the west by the ocean and on the soutli by tlie Marin County line, and the hills between Petaluma and Two Rock Valley. Compassed in tliis dis- trict are IJlucher Valley, Green Valley, Two Rock Valley, Big Valley, and Bodega Valley, and the following towns: Forestville, Sebasto- pol, Stony Point, Bloomfield, Valley Ford, Bodega, Freestone, and Occidental. Of these valleys and towns more particular mention will be made hereafter — it is the configuration of the territory they occupy that is now lieing con- sidered. That portion of this counti-y laying north of a line drawn with Forestville as its initial point, and taking in Sebastopol and Free- stone on its course to i^odega. and from thence in a direct line to the mouth of Russian River, can properly be designated Redwood Mountains — Russian River seeming to have carved them out of the more rugged mountain forests be- yond. "While these mountains do not tower very high yet the Blumeand O'Ferrel redwoods surmounting some of them, although about twenty miles distant, with a hilly country be- tween, can be ])lainly seen from Petnluma. South of this line, commencing with the low hills forming the Mcstern border of the Santa Rosa A^alley, then swelling into hills of consid- erable height, and again subsiding into more gentle undulations, with an occasional subsid- ence into an approach to valley level, they reach away to the west, until in the narrow confines between Bodega Jiay and the Estero Americano they are met by the waves of the Pacific ocean. With a length of over fifteen miles and an average breadth of about six miles, this jumble of hills and vales presents a newness of appear- ance very suggestive of tender age, geologically considered. Except that the northern end of this territory had a fail- showing of oak timber, the most of it was smooth hills, covered with indigenous grasses, until the plow claimed them i'ov the raising of cereals and potatoes. The remaining topograiihy of the county, so far as relates to hill and mountain profile, pre- sents only two subdivisions. The first is that chain, almost too rugged to be called bills, and yet hardly of sufficiently pretentious altitude to be designated mountains (although on Bower's map two peaks are named), forming the divide between Russian River and Dry (.'reek valleys. Commencing in gradually increasing nndnhi- tions at the confiuenee of Russian River and Dry Creek, they extend back tt) a point just north of the line between Sonoma and ilenilo- cino counties, where they are chopped oft' by Dry Creek plunging down through a gorge in the hills. These hills jiresent a mixture of oak timber, chaparral, and grazing land, with a small showing of redwood timber along two or three of the side streams just bMow Dry ("reek canon. There is now left the northwest corner of the county, bounded on the east by Dry Creek Val- ley, on the south by Russian River, on the west by the ocean, and on the north by ^Mendocino County. The territory embraced in this section of the county lias a length, coastwise, of about thirty miles, with an average breadth of about sixteen miles. AVith the exception of a sea-side mesa of breadth varying from one to two miles and extending from Fort Ross up to the mouth of theGualala River, this whole area is mountain and forest, interspersed with occasional glades that invite occupancy of such as prefer the soli- tude of rugged wilds fur themselves and fiocks. Here is an unliounded wealth of redwood foi-ests and tanbark oak, with a possilile treasure of hidden mineral wealth to be revealed in the future; for already at Mount Jackson there is a quicksilver mine being successfully antl profit- ably worked. The grandeur of the scenery of this vast stretch of country must be seen to be appreciated; but, even to the great mass of Sonoma County's own citizens it is a term incfx/- ni.ta. We do not speak at random about the wild grandeur of nature as exhibited in this field, for nearly three decades ago we spent days and weeks amid these scenes. Our impressions and experiences were then given to the public in a HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. 105 coininunication under caption of, "The Petalunia Hunters," and will lie reproduced in another cliapter of this work. Having given the skeleton (intlines of the iiills and mountains of Sonoma County, we now turn to the valley's. Fetainma Valley com- mences at San Pablo Bay and extends north- ward fifteen miles and ends where low rolling hills form the dividing line between it and Santa Rosa \'alley. it lias an average breadth of from three to five miles and is of inexhausti- ble fertility. The mountains to the east and the hills to the west are susceptible of cultiva- tion high up on their sides, and their summits are productive of indigenous gi-asses which fur- nish a never failing supply of a range to those engaged in dairying and stock-raising. The valley land is productive of wheat, barley and Iniy. The land immediately along the foot- hills is of the very best ([uality for orchards and vineyards. Sonoma Valley has been so fully described in connection with the early establishment there of the mission "San l'"rancisco Solano," tliat it requires little further description. It is a per- fect gem of a valley, its foot resting upon tide- water and extending inland ten or twelve miles. It is the natural home of the \ine, the fig and tlie orange. Xow that it is penetrated by two railroads, its real worth and advantages will win for it that consideration that its refd worth and importance entitles it to. Passing north the wide sweeji of Santa liosa A'alley comes to view. This valley is a verit- able paradise. Undeniably this is one of the most lovely valleys in the State. Its fertility and geographical position which secures it against the harsh coast winds, and its j)erfect adaptability for the ])roductiou of all kinds of fruits marks it for a bright future of prosperity. With an average breadth of six miles and a length of eighteen miles it presents a wealth of valley and scenic grandeur worth the crossing of a continent to behoM. I'assing beyond the Santa Rosa Valley north- ward we come to the liussian Uiver Xalley. This valley is considerable narrower than the Santa Rosa Valley, but in richness of soil and variableness of scenery, it is not surpassed by any other valley in the State. From Ilealds- burg to Cloverdale this valley is becoming one continuous chain of vineyards and orchards. Here it is that corn grows with a luxuriance equal to that witnessed in the great IVfississijipi Valley. The Dry ('reek \'alley that unites with that of the Russian River near Healdsburg, is of equal fertility and has long been famous for its products of small grain, corn, fruit and ho^js. It reaches far nyi into the coast mountains, and is a favorite place of resort for campers and sportsmen. Cloverdale is at the head of Russian River Valley, but lieyond it in a pocket of the moun- tains is Oat Valley, not large, but a gem both in point of scenic surroundings and fertility of soil. I-Casterly frdui Healdsburg is Alexander \'al- ley, a side cove to Russian River Valley. It is a valley of considerable extend and great fertil- ity. Mr. Alexander, after whom the valley was named, was a pioneer settler, and in the early fifties had a bearing orchard and other evideiu'es of thrift and enterprise around him. To the north and east of the Santa Rosa Val- ley is a perfect nest of mountain valleys of great productiveness. The (iuilicos Valley lays serenely at the foot of Hood IVIountain, and now that its solitude is broken by the whistle of the Santa Rosa and Carquine/. trains pass- ing through it, will soon become a famous sub- urban resort. Rincon N^alley is a little nest in the mountains three or four miles long by two wide. Shut in as it is l)y surrounding moun- tains it has a climate of unusual mildness and is famous for the good (juality of grapes and what that fruit produces. Dennett Valley is one of the largest of the group of valleys, lying easterly from Santa Rosa, its length being about seven miles with aii average breadth of over two miles. This valley is almost one continuous viiK^yard. High ui) in the mountains is the IOC HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. littlt' Alpine \'alley, mostly devoted to stock, liiit with a few vineyards. Elliot Valley, so named after the discoverer of the Geyser Springs, on Porter Creek, a tributary of Mark West Creek, is a small valley in which l>uth farming and fruit raising is carried on. Turning now to the west side of the county there, are the following designated valleys: (xreen Valley is an extremely rich and produc- tive belt of country of about six miles in length and two miles in breadth, lying in the red- woods north of Sebastopol. _ This valley, on account of its sheltered position, has always been productive of tine fruit and berries. For the growing of peaches and kindred fruit it is unrivalled. This was one among the earliest settled valleys in the county, and has always had a thrifty and enterprising population. Blucher Valley is located in the rolling iiills between the Santa Eosa and Two Kock valleys. It is a valley more in name than seeming for it is difficult to say where the valley ends and the undulations begin. It is land of great richness, and for all standard varieties of fruit it can hardly be excelled. Next comes Two Eock A'" alley, so named on acconnt of twin rocks at the northwest corner of the ranch now owned by Mr. Kzekiel Den- man. The Spaniards called it "Dos I'idros," and so the name continued down to 1854:-'5, when it gradually took on the American name. Two Rock. This valley is about three miles long and two miles wide. The soil is rich alluvial- and the valley has always lieen very productive of potatoes and grain. Big Valley occupies the basin forming tlie head waters of the Estero Americano. The valley and surrounding hills for miles around, in the years gone by have produced untold quantities of farm products. Being ccmtiguous to Bodega where farming was first inaugurated. Big Valley naturally invited early occupancy and soon took front rank among farming dis- tricts, 'and has maintained it to the end. The next, and last valley to be noted is that of the San Antonio. This is a narrow valley at best, and that portion of it on the Sonoma County side of the creek is extremely narrow. But the head of the San Antonio widens out and embraces several thousand acres of com- paratively level land. Here used to be two chain of lagoons; one at the head of the San Antonio Creek and the other at the head of Sal- mon Creek. But these lagoons have been drained and now are used for cultivatinn. We have thus given a birds-eye view of the general topography of Sonoma County. We tirst gave a skeleton of the mountain and hill ranges and have designated and locateil the val- leys. But it must be borne in mind thiit innch of what lias been designated hills, and eviMi portions classed as mountains, is susceptible of cultivation, and the remainder is excellent stock land. ffTSTOnr OF SONOUfA COUNTY. m ?>g(gg AMERICAN OCCUPATION M^riAPTErv XI. Sonoma a central point avter the Bear Flag kevoli'tion — effect of disoovekv of the mixes — WHO WERE settlers i.\ Sonoma County at the time — F. (t. Bli'meV statemicnt- how wild AND UNIXHABITEI) TlIK I'Ol NTRY WAS Mr. LeIGh's lirXTINO EXPERIENCE NEAR riCrAHMA FIRST SETTLERS IN AMI AROUNO PlOTALFMA BaCHELOR RANCHES THE LIVES AND HABITS OF THE I'Eori.E WILD HOItSES, A\|i RECKLESS RIDERS THIC REATTA (I.ASSo) A COM!\IoX INSTRUMENT WITH WHICH To CArTlRi; WILD lIoRSES AXD CATTLE THE VARIAIH.E EXl'EIUEXCES OF EARLY FARMERS UIOSCRII'TIVIC OF THIS CorNl'i' AS IT WAS IN 1854 VsSESSOr's RFl'ORT I'OR 1855 THF I'lRST FAIR ol' SciNoMA Corxiv. |i,aK|;|ITII tlie lioistiiu K Sonoma virtually of the bear flag at came Xo an end Span- ish rule here. Althoiiu-h it was two years later before California literally passed nnder American rnle by tlie treaty of Guadalupe Hi- dalgo, yet so far as the territory was concerned Anierioan rule was comjilete ami irrevocable. During the short interre_i,''iium that intervened between the capture of Sonoma and the discov- ery of the gold mines of California, the very fact that Sonoma was the center f)f the revcilu- tionary movement made it the head center of American immigrants and adventurers. During these adventurous and troublous times many families from the outlying country naturally sought Sonoma as a haven of security. This inflation of its jwpulatioii gave to it, for the time being, a marked prominence on tin- northern tVontier. But the discovery of the gold mines in 1848 turned tlie attention of everybody mouiitainward. F(H' a lime Sonoma was a sort of distributi\e ])oint from whence snp])lies were drawn for gold-seekers, but soon places more accessible to the mines sprung up. and Sonoma relapsed into a quiet hamlet, yet the county seat ot Sonoma ('onnty, but her most enduring glory being that around her clustered the memories of the flrst successful revolt against l\[exican rnle. It is interesting to note how manv and who were the settlers in Sonoma County at the time when it came under American jurisdiction. General Vallejo as commandante of the north- ern frontier had power to confer grants of land, subject to conflrmation by the Governor of Cal- ifornia. General Vallejo received this author- ization in 1885. The first exercise of this power seems to have been in the granting of lands to Messrs. Mcintosh, Black and Dawson in what is now r>odega Township. James Black afterward disposed of his interest to his partners and secured a grant in what is now Marin County. Mcrntosh and Dawson became naturalized citizens of Mexico, as they had to do, ill order to get thcii- grant approved. To Mcintosh was left the Inisiness of attending to getting the proper papers' for the grant, and he omitted to have his partner Dawson, maile a 108 ttlSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. party tu tlie transaction. Tlii> led to tronble and a dissolution of the tirin. Dawson set up on his own account and received a grant for what is now the Poglolome Grant. Dawson, on tliis grant doubtless was the first, aside from tlie Russians, to saw lumber in Sonoma County. Ho established a saw-pit and with a whip-saw sawed lumber enough to build a house. In 184-0 Cyrus Alexander undertook the management of the Sotoyome, or Fitch grant, on Russian River. He agreed to manage the ranch and cattle tliereon for a period of four years at tlie end of wliich he was to receive two leagues of land for liis services. He fulfilled his contract and the two leagues of land placed him in the front rank among Sonoma County's substantial mrn. ( 'aptain Stepiien Smith visited this coast in 1839 or 1840. He seems to have been im- pressed with tlie opportunities here for a grand future for lie disposed of his cargo of liorns, hides and tallow. Wiule on tliis coast he had anclinrt'il in jiodega Uay and (loulitless fixed, at tiiat time upon that locality for a future home. Returning in ISlShe brought with him a boiler, engine, and complete outfit for a steam saw and grist mill, lie brought with him an assorted cargo of merchandise. With him came Henry Hegeler, a ship's carpenter, William A. Streeter, an engineer, and David D. Dutton, a mill- wright. Arrivinj; at San Francisco some time in 184:3, he secured the additional services of James Hudspeth, Alexander Copeland, Xathan- iel Cooml.)s and .Fohn Daubinbiss (the three former of wlKim reached prominence in subse- quent California historyV Anchorage was reached in iiodega i!ay sometime in September. 1843. Captain Smith encountered some ditb- culty on his first arrival, as John tJidweli, then Sutter's agent, claimed that the land around Bodega belonged to Ca]>tain Sutter 1)y virtue of purchase from the Hussiaiis. In spite of these ju-otests, however. Captain Smith stood his ground and maintained his position. He immediately set about the con- htrnctioii of his mill, destined to be the first steain-niill of California. He selected as the site a point at the very edge of the redwood belt, about one mile easterly from the present location of Bodega ('orners. There were three boilers, each thirty-si.\ feet in length and two and one-half feet in diameter. Tliese boilers were set in masoni-y so that the fire passed around them, instead of througli them, as boilers are now constructed. The engine was of equally primitive construction. The grinding burrs were about fonr feet in diameter and eighteen inches in thickness, and encircled with heavy iron bands. The saw for cutting lumber was what is known as a sash or molding saw, being of up and down perpendicular motion. When everything was in readiness to start up this mill, a grand barliecne was prepared and peojile near and far came to behold the wonder. That it was accounted a momentous event is evi- denced by the fact that Ceneral Vallejo rode all the way from Sonoma to be present and partici- pate in the inauguration of this new California enterprise. Up to 1850 this mill did good ser- vice, and eventually a circular saw took the place of the muley. In 1855 the old mill building was burned and all that now marks its former site is the excavation in the bank where it stood, and the well from wliich was pumjied the water to feed its boilers. Captain Stephen Smith seems to have been a man of sagacity and great energy of character. Aside from his mill, he established a tannery in after years, which was in successful operation down to tiie time of tlie captain's death. His grant, the Bodega, contained 35,487 acres, and so long as the captain lived he managed it with care and intelligence, but after his death, which occurred in November, 1855. the vast estate was soon dissipated and wasted through the reckless management of Tyler Curtis, who married the widow, and it is doubtful if any of Captain ."Smith's children have much now to show of the great wealth of their father. Here it is in place to give the reminiscences of a gentleman who settled at Freestone in the very earl }• days. His statement covers much historic ground; rtrfiTonr oP sonoma county. '■K. G. JJluini' of I'"iveritone, oiiu of the early pioneers of tliis State and county, i^ a (Tcrnian by birth, ami was edneateil a;; a piiysieian. In 1S37 he accepted the jiosition of snri^eon on the whale ship Alexander Itarclay, of Bremen, whence he sailed for the whaling urotindsof the North Pacific. After a successful cruise, his ship dropped anchor in Saueelito harbor the 23d of December, 1843, wdiere she remained some time. l'"rom here Dr. ISlume went to the Sand- wich Islands, and in 1847 returned to Califor- nia, taking up his residence at Sonoma, where for a time he practiced his profession. He arrived soon after the hoisting of the bear flag, .and some months before the discovery of gold. He has a clear recollection of many of the his- toric events of that early period, and being an educated man and a close observer, a conversa- tion with him upon matters relating to the early history of this coast is highly interesting While engaged in whalingabont Sitka, previous to hisarrival in California, he and his shipmates had frequentdealingsand interviews with the Russian settlers of that region, whom he describes as the most generous, kind-hearted and hospitable peo- ]ile he had ever met. Tiiere was a never-ending rivalry among them as to who should treat the stranger with the greatest kindness and hospi- tality. A ball given by the linssian oflicials at Sitka was a really grand affair. Then, as now, the principal employments of the itdiabitants was the producing of furs. He states that Alaska contains immense bodies of timber land which at a future time will become of great value for ship-lmilding and other ]iurposes. •'When the first gold dust was brought to So- noma there was much doubt as to its genuineness. Governor Hoggs and the military officers ])ro- nounced it gold, and their opinion was acceiitcd as connect. In a short time miners began to arrive with large (juantities of dust, and it be- came almost a drug in the market, 'i'hcre was but little coin in the country, and Coopei' iV lieasley, hotel keepers, bought large quantities of dust at from four tn five dollars jier ounce. Change smaller than one dollar w.is especiallv scarce, and a blacksmith named Fling was often employed for hours in cutting JNIe.xican dollars into halves and (piarters. (Gambling was carried on on a large scale by a considerable portion of the inhabitants and visitors. Company D, United States Volunteers, Captain Brackett, was stationed at Sonoma, and Lieutenant, now (Jen- eral George Stoneman, was there. " Deer, bear, antelope, elk, and smaller game were abundant hereabouts and very tame. On more than one occasion Dr. Illume has driven cattle and elk into a corral together on the Tetalnma Ranch. In 1847 ammunition was 'contraband,' and it was with much difficulty that it could be procured. Twenty-five cents was paid for gun caps, and but few would be obtained at that or any other price. In the sum- mer and fall the valleys and hillsides were covered with wild oats from four to eight feet in height, and ownership of lands which are now among the most valuable in the State could be secured for a mere trifle. There was not a house in Petaluma Townshij), and the only building between Sonoma and Freestone was the old adobe, near this city. "We have given l)ut an outline of a few of the many interesting events relating to the early history of the coast that came within the personal knowledge and exi)erience of this old pioneer. "In 1848 Dr. Illume removed from Sonoma to Freestone, where he has since resided. He has been several times elected justice of the peace 'of llodega Township and is now servino- as postmaster of Freestone." Joseph O'Farrel having e.xchanged a ranch in iEarin County for the Canada de Joniva in .\naly 'i'ownshi]i, and accpiired by purchase from Melntosh the grant, in IJodega Township known as the Estero Americano, he established liis residence in a beautiful valley in the red- woods, wliere he was living in good style with all the comforts and conveniences of modern life around him, when American population be- gan to come in. The Corrillio families, both at Santa Rosa and Sebastopol, had erected adobe inSTORT OF SONOMA COUNT i'. liouses and were surrouiidecl with other evidences of permanent residences. Mark West, occnpy- ing a grant on the creek that still bears his name, had erected a large adobe dwelling — so likewise had Henry F). Fitch on his Sotoyome grant on IJnssian River. Excepting the large adolje establishment of General ^'allejo, in \'allejo Township, near Petalnnia, the places above enumerated were about the only ones that could be called permanently established for any period ante-dating 1850. At all these ranches there was quite a showing of cattle and horses. Ihit taken as a whole, tiie present County of Sonoma was an uninhabited wild in 1850, save and except the small valley of Sonoma. N. X. Hedges, yet a resident of Petaluma, and who, in company with Stephen Fowler (long de- ceased), liuilt a house for Captain Sniith at liodega. says that at that time there was not a panel of fence on tlie trail between Petaluma and liodega except a corral in l>ig \' alley. As cioseas was Petaluma tst respected citizens. Among those of that eai-ly period whose names are at our command are (-ieorge \\. Williams, Robert Douglas and family; the Starkeys, the Tustins, the Lewises. The Mer- ritts had located temjiorarily in (ireen Valley, and John Merritt informs us that he ])iit ut) the first stack of hay ever seen at Retaluma i.in the site now occupied by the ^[cCune JJlock, corner of Washington and Main streets. It is useless to attempt to particularize on individu- ality further. People were coming into the county in constantly increasing volume, and very many were intent upon securing liomes in the country. Hut where to find unclaimed lands was the rub. Go where they woidd they found the land i-esting under the shadow of some Spanish grant. In sheer desperation many set- tled on grants and ])re|)ared to build their homes, and leave the consequences to the future. The settlements thus formed were dif- ferent in character from those ever before wit- nessed in frontier settlements. It was largely made up of those who had tried their fortunes in the mines and becoming discouraged with the vocation of gold-seekers, determined to turn their attention either to farming; or the raising of stock. As a rule they were unmari-ied men, although among them were a few men wliu had families in the East. Hence it was that up to as late as ISoo a large proportion of the habi- tations in Sonoma (.'ounty were designated as " I'achelor ranchos."" The buildings, con- structed in many instances, as already stated, on land covered by some Spanish grant, were very rude habitations. The most common structures were built by setting posts in the ground. The weatherboarding was of boards split out of red- wood, usually twelve feet long, and the roof of Hf^TdUT f)F soyo.WA COUNT T. ■ •lapboanls (sliakt^i tVnir ectiitui-s. AVlieii we see young men of this day riding on the little American saddle, with their tooth-pick shoes crowded into little iron stirrups, and rising in tlieir sitting so that you could sine a hat between thcni and their saddle, we just smile wiien we think of what would be their fate if riding a bucking horse why, there would not be enough of them left to make shoe- strings. In the short space of a third of a century the art of horse-back riding has virtu- ally become a lost art in California. The drift of early settlement in Sonoma County was naturally toward Bodega because, not only the Russians had demonstrated its fit- ness for agriculture, but Captain Stephen Smith had established himself there and was in a posi- tion to assist immigrants in their venture in agricultural pursuits. It was a demonstrated fact that that region would produce in great abundance potatoes, much needed in the mines of California. Seed potatoes were very high. Captain Smith was in a position to furnish this, and found many ready to rent land and embark in the business of potato growing. In 1851 such reaj)ed a rich reward. In 1852 seed pota- toes were available for others, and settlers in Big Valley and the coast hills embarked in the business, and with large profits. This led to the planting of an increased acreage of potatoes in 1853, and the result was an over-production, and conse(_[uent disaster to those engaged in the business. In 185-1 the potato crop was again in excess of the demand, and those who had en- gaged in the business of potato raising were virtually bankrupted. And, as if in veritication of the adage, " misfortunes never come alone," the wheat crop of the coast valley's for 1854: -'55 were smitten with both smut and rust. ^Vlien we hear farmers of the present day growling about short crops, or low prices, our memory naturally reverts to those three years of unre- (piiteil toil of our farmcns', and we wonder as to what would be about the lengtli of Sonoma County farmers' faces now if they had to pass through similar experiences. The.se early farmers of Sonoma County had settled upon the naked land. In many instances they first planted their crops, then turned their attention to building fences. If they had some means, they could buy slats and posts in the redwoods. If they had no money, as many of them had not, it involved the riving of slats and the splitting of posts themselves, and then the hauling and constructing of the same into fences. The toil involved was immense, and none but those who passed through those experiences will ever know wdiat of deprivation and physical eft'ort it cost to found the early settlements of Sonoma County. As this chapter is mainly intended to give the reader a correct conception of the Ilcwne^s and comparatively uninhabited condition of Sonoma County in the early fifties we give place here to a communication written by us in 1877, reminiscent of the then long past: "Eds. AK(iUs: Noticing that you are about to lay upon the shelf your twenty-second volume it naturally causes my mind to drift back to that long-ago, verging close upon a (piarter of a century, the occasion of my advent into your county. .Vs these memories ante-date the birth of your journal, they may not be devoid of in- terest to some of your readers. In brief, the spring of 1851 found me in San Francisco, waiting, like Micawber, 'for something to turn up.' That something did turn up just in the nick of time, and was nothing more or less than the discoveiy of rich gold mines on Russian River. " Over three years experience in the Sierras hail failed to eliminate from my nature that credu- lity which kept so many miners following every l(jii'iK fatuun bearing the title of ' new gold mines.' .\t the time of whieh I write there were three steamboats plying between San Francisco and Petalunni. The Scrrefar;/ and a boat the name of which has passed from my mind, were running a spirited oj>pobition. 'i'lu: Reindeer, of which your fellow-townsman, E. Latapie, was captain, was running free and easy, on its own hook; making up in safety what it lacked in speed. Un the latter 1 took passage, lllslfiUT OF SONOMA COUNTY. ;uul iVoiii it* ilcuk liad my lir^t view of the ile- viuiis iiieanderings of Ptjtaluina Creuk. In less than two weeks thereafter tlie Sc-n-f'tr;/ went up in a cloud of steam, aiul. like a leaden pluni- inct, to the bottom of the bay, carrying with her a score or more of passengers. There are resi- dent in your county yet some of those wlio took a salt-water bath on that occasion, but who were fortunately rescued by the boat with which the Scci-tfar;/ was racing at the time of the disaster. .\ t'ellow-passenger on the liLUuLer. who knew all the ins and outs of yo\ir then incipient city, conducted me to the -Tom and Da\e"s House,' where I found food and lodging. The title of this house was derived from a contraction of the given names of Thomas IJayliss and David Flogdell, who were its keepers. Proprietors and house, alike, liave passed away. As my destination was the Eldorado on Russian River, 1 only tarried one night in Petaluma, and with carpet-l)ag on back hastened onward. " It was early in April, and as there had been copious rains vegetation was luxuriant, and the valleys and mountain sides as far as visi(jn could reach were one undulating sea of wild oats. The whole wide sweep of country beyond Peta- luma was very sparsely settled at that tiuie. About midway between Petaluma and Santa Rosa the Moffet Jirothers were dairying upon a large scale, and seemed to have free range of Santa Ro-a Valley for their stock. My recol- lection at present is that between the old C). E. Mathews place, adjacent to Petaluma, and Santa Rosa, there was l)ut one house immediately at the road-side, and in it I took refuge from an April shower. •• I reached Santa Rosa in time t'or a late din- ner. E. P. Colgan had just moved into the rooms under the old Masonic Hall. Everything was topsyturvy — tiic cooking stove having barely been got in place. Mrs. C, notwith- standing it was two o'clock r. m., inijirovised a dinner, and thus I claim the honor of being the first traveler to take a meal at a regular public hotel in Santa Rosa. "Although weary and foot-sore 1 determined to go as far as the old Mark West Ranch llou>e that evening. And just here I wish to record my impression at tluit time — and I have no de- sire to modify it now—that in all my wander- ings upon tliis earth I had never before traversed so Eden-like a vale as that between Santa Rosa and Mark West. It was nature's own park. Wild oats, clover and other indigenous grasses, intermingled with a profusion of wild tlowers of every shade and hue bedecked the broad ex- pause of plains, while the oak timber, just sparse enough {o give it an orchard-like appear- ance, was putting on its new foliage amid the drapery of pendent moss, that, like ten tlmu- sand banners, courted the balmy breeze. It was untarnished nature, neitiier marred nor scarred by the plowshare of relentless man. "At Mark West I found accommodations for the night with a couple of Frenchmen, who had a trading-post in one wing of the old Mark West Ranch House. Morning again found me a pedestrian on the Santa Rosa plains. My course lay some miles westerly from the present road of Healdsburg, bringing me to Russian River about five miles below Fitch's. I then traveled up the river, passing on the way a clapboard shanty, in which Lindsey Carson, brother of the famous Kit Carson, liad a little store. Arriving at Fitch's it was necessary to cross the river. There was a canoe moored at the opposite shore and a number of Indians lounging on the bank, but they were deaf to my entreaties to l)e ferried across. After wait- ing an hour one (.)f the Fitch's, a lad then of fourteen or fifteen, came to my relief and con- vinced the dusky savages that they had better cross me over. My objective point for dinner was Heald's, who occupied the present site of Healdsburg. 1 was, however, doomed to dis- appointment, as there was no one at home. P'rom this point onward I was like a sailor at sea without chart or compass. A dim road alone attested that civilization liad preceded me. Mile after mile was left behind, and yet no sign of human habitation. Night cast iier mantle over the earth, and I was alone in that HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. vast solitiule. Before darkness obscured clear vision I noticed that the road was trending; westward, and apparently away from the river valley. At eii;ht o'clock at night, by the star- light, I could see that around me was an aniplii theater of mountains, rendered more somber by a forest of redwoods. I bad about concluded that supperless and bedless I was in for vigils during the silent watches of the nig;lit, when the barking of a dog further up the canon greeted my eai'. Never until tlieii did I appreciate the p let's rhapsody over ' tbedeep-iru)uthed liaying of the watch-dog." There are a great many worthless curs in the world who are libels on respectable canines, but for all that man has no truer, more steadfast and faithful friend than in his dog. The ringing bark of the dog told me as plainly as though in articulated words that he had a master, and acting on this assurance 1 was soon by a blazing camp tire, and the reei|i- ient of genuine backwoods hospitality from a young man who had pitched camp there to get out redwood fencing material to be used in the valley.-^. My host shared with me his bed, and so fatigued was 1 that, notwithstanding the in- formation that the Indians had, oidy a week previous, killed a man in a cafKin nearby, 1 was soon oblivious to all worldly care. Tliis young man was able- to give me positive information concerning the reputed gold mines uj) the river — suHicient, at least, to convince me Ihat on Russian River was not located the (>pliir from which Solomon got the gold for his temple, and the ne.\t day I I'ctrcated in good urdcr, only varying my nuile from that traveled up in that I crossed over from Santa Kosa to the okl Mil- ler & Walker store, near the now town of Sebas- topol. and tlicncctd relMlnma by way of Stony Point. "A comparisdii nf the present with the past as outlined by this hasty reminiscence of that long ago, will give mmi: maiked emphasis to the character and degree of progress made by Sonoma County in the space of twenty- three years." We cannot lietter give a correcl idea of the progress made in the settlement and development of Sonoma ('ounty up to 1855 than by append- ing the following: Smith 1). Towne, the then assessor of So- noma County, furnished to the Sonoma County ■Jdiirnul ill AugUht of 1855 the following statistics relating to Sonoma and Mendocino counties: ■'Tlie ijuantity of the land enclosed in this and Mendocino counties, amounts to ;JT.t)5:2 acres; about 22,400 acres of which is in the cultixation of the following ])roduct8: " \Vlic^1U, to Air. Tate of Santa IJosa; second best, to Mr. Seabring, of itodega ; third best, to Mr. Manning of Green Valley. " I>est stud colt, premium to Mr. McMiuu; second best, to Mr. McDowell. ''Best brood luare, $8, to.Iulio Carrillo, of Santa Kosa ; second best, to Mr. Stanley, of I'etalunui; third, to Mr. Watson. "Best colt, $5, to Mr. Seabring, of Bodega; second to Mr. Tate, of Santa Rosa. " Best riding horse, !?5, to Mr. Wright, of Santa Rosa. "Best buggy horse, So, to Mr. liobin^on, of Betaluina. " Hest draft horse, !ti5, to Mr. Stanley, of I'etalunia. " ! Jest mule, premium to Mr. Wright, of Santa liosa. "liest bull. !f;8, to Buvell iV i'.rothers, of Val- lejo Township. "Bestcow, !B8, to Mr. Wrigiit, of Santa Kosa. •> Best calf !ji5, to Air. AVright, of Santa Rosa. " Hest beef steer, So, to Mr. Clark, of Santa Rosa. " Best specimen of cheese, $)J, to Mr. Till'e, of I'etaluma. " Best specimen of wheat, S5, to Air. Neal, of Santa Rosa. " Best specimen of saddlery, !f;2.50, to Air. Barnard, of Santa Rosa." While the above showing of the assessor, as well as the rejiort of the County Fair, will seem small and inconsequential when con- trasted with he products of Sonoma County now, yet it shows that the people had accom- plished very much, considering the newness of the country. 118 HISTORY OF S02fOMA COUNTY. '^>^~^-^S^-^^^i^^-^\^ CHAPTER XII. EPITOME OF THE FIKf-T VEAk's KEI OKP UE THE SuXOMA CViT>-TY JoUKNAI, ThX GEYSER'^ 1S56 — IHK PeTALIMA IIUNIKKs IX 1860. fllE first newspaper published in Petaiiiina : appeared on the 18th vi' August. 1855, ^' and was entitled T/ie I'etalutna Weekly Joui'iuil and Sonoma County Advertiser. Hon. Thomas L. Thompson, now of the Santa Rosa Democrat, was proprietor, and H. L. AVcston, long one of the proprietors of the Anjus, and 3'et a citizen of Petaluma, was foreman of the otiicc, which was in a one-story wooden building situated on the present site of Towne's drug store. The only other paper being pulj- lislied in the county was the Sonoma Bulletin, bv A. J. Cox, and as it suspended publication in September of that year, the Journal became the repository of all matters of historic concern, not only of Sonoma, but of some of the adjacent counties that as yet had no public journals of their own. While the most of the matter con- tained in the tiles of this ]'ournal from the IStli of August, 1855, to the 18th of August, 185B, is local to Petaluma, yet there is so much of it that relates to the whole county that an epitome III' it properly falls within the scope of the county's general history. Among the items of general interest in the first issue we find the annual report of S. D. Towne, county assessor, from which it is learned that within the territory now constitut- ing the counties of Sonoma and Mendocino, there were 87,052 acres of enclosed land, of W'liich 22,400 were under cultivation. There were 12,233 acres of wheat, of which it was estimated that 3,500 acres would yield twenty - eight bushels per acre, the remainder being nearly all destroyed by rust. Rust also ex- tended its ravages to the indigenous plants and grasses. Among the Petaluma advertisers in this lirst i'ew.issues were: attorneys-at-law. AVni. I). Bliss, Wm. A. Cornwall, J. Chandlar, and I. G. Wickershani ; saddlery, Samuels & Gedney and W. Van Houghton; dry goods and groceries. Hill ct Lyon and Elder vN: Plinman; painting, Geo. W. Andrews and J. B. Bailey; lumber, H. S. Xewton and Geo. R. Perkins; hardware, Derby A: Baldwin; dealers in produce and agents for Petaluma line of packets, Kittrell it Co.; drug and book store, S. C. Haydon; Ameri- can Hotel, Anthony G. Oakes; general mer- chandise, Calish & x^ewman; steamer Reindeer, Edward Latapie, master; furniture, L. Chap- man; dentist, W. D. Trinque; Petaluma House, Ramsey it Light; stable and stock-yard, C. I. Robinson; Pioneer Hotel, D. "W. Flogdell. A. B. Bowers and Miss Morse were the teachers of the Petaluma public scliool. X, McC. Menefee ffrSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. was county clerk, and Tlioinas IT. Pyatt and Joel JNIiller, deputies; Israel Brockiuaii was slieriff and A. C. McKinnen, deputy. Tiie California State election was lield on the 5th of Septeinher, and is reported as follows: J. Neely Johnson, Know Nothing, was elected Governor over John Bigler, Democrat, by a majority of 5,011 in a total vote of 96,885. In Petaluma the vote stood Johnson 277, Bigler 204. The Settlers' elected their entire county ticket by a large majority. The following were the officers chosen: Assemblymen, 11. (1. lleald and J. S. Rathbnrn; County Judge, Wm. Churchman; District Attorney, I. G. Wicker- sham; County Clerk, N. McC. Menefee; Sheriii', A. C. Bledso; Treasurer, W. A. Buster; Super- intendent of Schools, B. n. Bonham; Surveyor, Wm. Mock; Assessor, W.G.Lee; Coroner, J. S. Williams; Public Administrator, "W.B. Atter- berry. The total vote polled in Sonoma and ^[(Mulocino was 1,890. In the issne of the 8th (jf September the following mention is made: "The county seat was removed last fall from Sonoma to Santa Tiosa, at which time the latter place contained not more than one or two honses; it now boasts of three stores, two hotels, one restaurant, one blacksmith shop, a large livery stable, various private residences and several new houses in course of constrnction. The county buildings are not constructed but lumber is on the ground for their commence- ment." Tiie Sonoma BuUetin, about the 12tli of September, requested the Jcnnxil to an- nounce its demise. In Septeml)er and October we tind the follow- ing record: The Steamer (rcorc/ind, which had been running on the Sonoma and San Francisco line, commenced making regular trips between Petaluma and San Francisco tlic 17th of Sep- tember. The Kate Na//t'.i, under tlie command of Captain C. M. Baxter, was also making regu- lar trips. Among new advertisers who put in an appearance during the months of Septembei- and October, were C. P. Wilkins, attorney-at- law; W. L. Anderson and John S. liobberson, M. Weil & Co., U. Samuels and M. Amies, and John G. Huff, general merchandise; Thomas L. Barnes, S. W. Brown and T. A. Hylton, physi- cians and surgeons; B. Tannebaum, dry goods; A. Skill man and Wm. Zartman, and Dean & Bates, wagon and carriage- makers. The co- partnership of Wm. Zartman, John Fritscli and James Reed, who were engaged in lilacksmith- ing and wagon-making, was dissolved the 23d of October, James Reed having perished on the ill-fated Central Ami'rira that went down at sea. The Bodega steam saw-mill, owned by B. Phelps, of San Francisco, was destroyed by tire on the night of October 18, the loss beinc between $15,000 and !!;18,000. The first fair of Sonoma County was held in Santa Rosa on the plaza, in front of the court house, October 18. The board of managers of the society consisted of Dr. J. Hill, President; B. B. Munday, Vice-President; Mr. Jenkins, Treasurer; S. T. Power, Secretary; Judge Thompson, Dr. Ornisby, Major Beck, Major Ewing, .\. Cope- land and J. M. Hudspeth, Directors. The State fair was held at Sacramento during the last week of Se|)tember. Among the successful competitors for jireminms were the following named from Sonoma County: II. L. Lovell A: Brother, of Yallejo Township, for the best bull, California bred Durham, $50; second best cheese, Samuel Lewis, $15; best five acres or liiore of corn, H. M. Wilson, Russian River, $50. Between November 10 and December 15, 1855, the Jovrnal contained the following : Among new advertisers were, E. B. Cooper, groceries ; Rosanna Loftus, Farmer's Hotel ; Sam Brown, American Hotel; Harmon Ramer and J. H. Knowles, Petaluma and IJodega Stage Line; J. E. Fowler, bakery and restaurant; George W. Miller, barber; E. \\. Lockley, attor- ney-at-la\v, Santa Rosa ; John llandley, dry goods, groceries and hardware, Santa Rosa. .\t ten o'clock, a. m., on the morning of Friday, November 23d, the boiler of the steamer Geonj- iiKi exploded while lying at her wharf in the creek at the foot of Fnglish street (now West- ern avenuej, taking on freight and passengers, killing .loliii Flood, fireman, and George Funk, HISTORY OF SONOMA OOUNTT. and wounding G. IJiisher and Valentine Iken. Tiie coroner's jury returned a verdict to the eftect tliat Flood came to his deatli by the crim- inal conduct and inattention of the cajitain of the steamer, John Tiionipson, and of the owners. The Geortfina was owned by Wagner & I5ihler, of Sonoma. The jury consisted of J. V>. South- ard, E. S. McMurrj, James E. Gedney, S. P. Derby, Charles R. Arthur, Jonathan Adams, J. H. Sproule, S. J. Smith, Harrison Stanley, Wm. Shelton, J. D. Bartlett, George Harris and William Van Houten. A postoffice, with Seveir Lewis as postmaster, was estal)lished at Windsor about the 10th of November. Captain Stephen Smith, one of the pioneer American settlers in California, anaus- tetter. Union ISilliard Saloon; II. P. lleintzel- man, agent for steamer Genercd /rtfar?i(?y, plying between Petaluma and San Francisco; Ceorge Ross, dealer in paints, oils, varnish, etc. In the issue of June 5th mention is made of (lov- ernor Johnson's proclamation on account of the vigilance committee, declaring San Francisco in a state of insurrection, and ordering all per- sons liable to military duty to report to Majoi' General W. T. Sherman. On the 14th of June James King, of William, of the San Francisco BnUetin was shot, and died on the 20th. On the 22(1 Casey and Cora were hung by the vigi- lance committee, and on the 31st Vankee Sul- livan, the noted prize-fighter, held in durance vile by the vigilance committee, committed sui- cide. The nearness of Petaluma to San Fran- cisco rendered these occurrences of thrilling interest to her people. Petween the 7tli of May and 2d of August the following record is made: The value of the butter, cheese, and eggs produced and sold in the vicinity of Petaluma, Santa Rosa, and Rus- sian River, during the month of May, was esti- mated at $i)2,39!). The steamers I\at,' ILiiji:^ and General Kearnc;/ were rimning in opposi- tion, to San Francisco, at twenty-five cents and one dollai-, respectively, for passengers. The new advertisers for Petaluma were: Mrs. W. II. Parker, school for young ladies; Acton, Ste])hens i^' Parker, produce depot, and W. P. Ewing, Geyser Hotel. St. John's Fpiscimal Chnrcli, Petaluma, was organized July 31st, by the election of the following vestrymen: John Keyes, Tomales; Dr. T. Ilendley, San^a Rosa; D. D. Carder, V,o\. J. P. Ilewie, P. R. Thomp- son, and J. Thompson Iliiie, V'allejo Township; I. G. Wickersham, S. C. Ilaydon, and O. T. Baldwin, of Petaluma. The following is made up trom the last two nnmbers of Volume I of the Journal — the re- spective dates being August 9 and 10, ISytJ: At three o'clock on the morning of August 4th, a two-story fire-proof building on Main street, (occupying ground upon which now stands the northern portion of PhfPnix I 'lock) fell to tiie ground and was almost a complete ruin. The building was owned by Gowen & McKay, and was occupied on the first floor by L. (Chapman as a furniture store, and on the second by the Odd Fellows and Masons. The front of the building fell into the street and the north side Tipon the adjoining wooden building, owned and occupied by S. V. Ilaydon as a drug store, completely demolishing the bnilding and de- stroying the goods. The south wall slid down an embankment into the cellars in the two ad- joining lots, the e.\cavating of which caused the catastrophe. Mr. Ilaydon narrowly escaped being killed. The following names were ap- pended to a call for a Republican mass conven- tion to be held at Petaluma, on August 20, 1850, the first convention called by that j^arty in Sonoma County: J. Chandler, S. W. Brown, M. Aines, M. I Human, J. N. Newton, A. C. Salter, L. Chapman, J. FL Fowler, J. Palmer, O. T. Baldwin, W. D. Bliss, L. M. Judkins, George Harris, O. Walker, J. F. Reed, John Fritsch, J. II. Masten, G. Warnei-, F. J. Penja- min, Hiram Luce, N. ( ). Start'ord, (t. (". Trues- dell, Joel Merchant, O. II. Lovett, Jacob (iilbert, John Wells, C. P. Hatch, J. L. Pickett, W. (;. Gibbs, F. C. Davis, R. Douglass, G. AV. Mowci-, W. C. Conley, (i. W. Barnard, William Z;iit- man, John .1. Bind, G. Barry, E. Linn, Pliilc- mon Hill, Freeman Parker, J. D. Thompson. With its issue of the 16tli of August, lSo(i, the ./o?/;vi(7/ closed the first year of its existence. This chapter culled from its columns, as con- fuseince deceased), who had been onr companion in the mines, wrote for the Sonoma County Jdiiniiil the following sketch of our trip: " Ho, for the (ieysersi" shouted my friend. '•Aye, for the (Jeysers," was the hearty re spouse. A few minutes hasty preparation ami we bade adieu to our friends, sprang into oiii' saddles and soon were galloping o\er the liills at a break-neck speed. The morning was beau- tiful. A cloudless sky and a refreshing breeze lent additional splendor to the scenery, and imparted buoyanry and elasticity to our spirits. Onr horses caught a spark of the enthusiasm that liurned in the heart, and beamed from the eyes of their riders, (living them the rein they bore us rapidly over the undulating hills in the vicinity of the Two Uocks, till, descending a narrow detile, we entereil the beautiful valley of Santa Rosa. Here, shaded by the wide-spread- ing oaks, planted by the hand of nature to adorn this lovely valley, and refreshed by the breeze that played among their branches, onr horses sprang forward with redoubled speed, and as we glided rapidly along, the sturdy old oaks appeared to be whirling in a giddy dance. Evervthino- was heautv and animation. Numer ous herds of horses and cattle were seen on every side; some luxuriating on the rich pastur- age, and others ruminating in the cool shade, with an air of calm enjoyment. Occasionally the outlines of a neat white cottage, indistinctly seen through the dark, green foliage of a thick clump of oaks, tlireiv ijuiet home-like appear ances over the whole scene. Delighted with the beauties of the valley, we deviated from our direct course, and arrived at the village of Santa Rosa, at 4 o'clock v. m., and halted for the night. "Santa Rosa has a pleasant situation, and the buildings look neat and attractive, in the morning we started early. An hour'rj ride brought us to a low range of hills, passing tlirongh which, we entered the valley of Rus- sian River, wliich in appearance is not less animated and l)eautiful than Santa Rosa. Tra- veling up the valley, three hours" ride brought us to the Mountain House, here we halted for i-efreshments. At tliis point, the road leading to the (leysers turns into the mountains. After resting an hour, we commenced the ascent of the mount:nn. The road is good, and the ascent was easy. We soon stood upon the summit of liald Hill. Certainly not a very poetical name, yet I iloiiht whether many of the mountains, famous in history an rudest form.' The mountains rear their bold, rugged fronts athwart the traveler's way, like colossal embattle- inents, looking in this magnificent display of nature's wontlers, to impede the ativancing steps of the adventurous intruder. .Not aware of the difKculties we had to encounter, we lingered too long by the way, and night spi-ead her dusky mantle o'er the mountains, while the most ditti- cult part of the journey was yet to be made. After a laborious march, at eight o'clock in the evening, very much fatigued, and with the ardor of our enthusiasm somewhat abated, we arrived at our ilestination. The hearty welcome and generous hospitality of the [u-oprietors soon rendered ns forgetful «if our fatigues, and re- stored onr usual good spirits. Aftei' a hearty sujjper and a pleasant chat, we retired to our room, and forgetful alike of pain or pleasure, soon yielded to the sweet embrace of the sleepy god. "With the earliest dawn, we sprang from our conch, and sallied forth with eager curiosity to take our first peep at the Geysers. We found ourself on a bench or flat in the side of the mountain. In front, and two hundred feet below, was a rocky canon, while above us. on either side, the mountains rose to tlie height of a thousand feet, with their tops gilded with the first rays of the morning sun, while twilight lingered in the depths below. Dense clouds of steam, impenetrable to the eye, obscured the opposite slo])e, and a loud stunning noise like steam escaping from a hundred boilers, echoed through the hills. Descending into the canon, we climbed up through a narrow chasm in the rock, and truly stood in a " theatre of wonders." On either side, the rocks rose abruptly, and steam whistled through every crevice, while under our feet we could hear the gurgling sound of the boiling fluid. The whole moun- tain appeared to tremble as though it floated on the surface of a boiling lake. Fi'oin an eleva- tion of two or three liundred feet, down to the bed of the stream that flows through the canon, boiling water and jets of steam are issuing through the fissures of the rock. A grander e.xliibition of the wonderful in nature is seldom seen. Its contemplation awes the heart bv a conscious pi-esence of sn])erior j)owers, ami involuntarily turns the mind to reflect upon the power and wisdom of the (ireat Author of the universe. Innumerable ages, buried in the oblivion of the past, have run their course since these boiling fountains first burst through the rocky liarriers of the mountain. Countless years rolled away, while their sublime thunder echot'il through the dreary solitude, uidieai'd bv the ear, or uuaj)proacheil by the footstep ol civilized man. lint henceforth the invalid, the devotee of jileasnre, and the idle and curious of everj' land, will flock thither ; • silks rustle, jewels shine,' and fashion's g.ay, heartless throuif, will move to and fro, as though their ephemeral pleasure were as eternal as the hills."" Mr. Ileed, who penned the above, has long since crumbled to dust, and yet how prophetic his words! Of those who have visited those HISTORY Op SONOMA dOlTNTT. same geysers and marveled at the wonders of nature's laboratory, liovv many, after fretting np and down life's stage for a brief period, have passed on, and that they ever lixed is only evideneed liy a slab of "dull cold inai'blcf TMI': I'K.TAIJ'MA illXTERS. In tlic fall of 18H0, the writer in company with six boon companions spent about half a month hunting on the boundarj' line between Sonoma and Mendocino counties. The following is his description of the country and the adven- tures of his party written at the time for the Sonoma County Journal : "In life there is uo enjoyment liowe'erit ni;iy ;il)oun(l, Like luinting tlirontrli llie wckkIIiimiIs witli liHes and wilh liounds." '• On Monthly morning, the 24th of Septem- ber, 181)0, there might have been seen, not 'a solitary' (a In eJames), but seven horsemen gal- loping across the low hills that intervene be- tween the city of Petaluma and the Santa Itosa plains. The guns that hung ]iendant tVom the saddle bows, and the sable specimen of the canine family that brought up the I'car. marked them as disciples of Nimrod intent on pleasure and adventure. In brief, the object of our little party was to leave the haunts of civilization, and in the wild freedom of the forest and excite- ment of the chase, seek oblivion from the every day cares of life. With a leader whose name is a terror to bruin, and a guide familiar with the intricate paths and by-ways that thread tlie almost nninhabited region lying between the head waters of Dry Creek and the C!oast Range, we naturally anticipated rare sport. Elated with the pros])ect before us, we gave loose rein to our horses, and they, as if imbued witii the spirit of their riders, went dashing up the Santa liosa Valley, bearing us over level plain and through orchard-like groves, that con- trasted strangely with the Sonoma Mountains to our right, with their buckskin scenery varia- gated by an occasional clump of evergreen oak, or the somber appearance of the red-woods in perspective to our left. About 11 o'clock we passed the village of Santa ilosa, county seat of Sonoma. It is located on Santa Rosa Creek, and presents a neat and tidy appearance. One peculiarity that strikes the traveler approach- ing this village, is the uniformity disjdayed in the architecture of its buildings, and the an- tique appearance of its gable chimneys that stand like shot towers exposed to the weather. A ride of five miles brought us to Mark West Creek. At the crossing of this stream the Campbellites were holding their annual meet- ing. Hitching our horses in an adjacent grove, and (li\'esting ourselves of our hunting accoutrements, we approached the camp. It was at the close of 11 o'clock service, and tiie \ast concourse of people were singing, perhaps with the spii-it, !)ut with little i-egard to melody. .V minister occupying a prominent position on a bench, was exhoi'ting the impenitent to 'l)e- lieve and be ba])tised,' and some ten or twelve responded to the call. As impressive as was the scene, its effect upon ns was connteraoti'd l)y one of the ministers volunteering the admo- nition to the new converts, that they must re- gard their • religious neighbors as their reli- gions enemies.' Such illiberality might justly be regarded as a relic of that proscripti\e age that must e\er be remembered as the gloomy morn that heralded the dawn of a brighter day. The attendance at this meeting was greater than perhaps at any meeting of similar charactei- in this region, and we were informed that between eighty and a hundred had united with the church. "As we wished to reach Healdsburg in season to perfect our arrangements for camp life, we remonnted and rode toward Russian River. The mountains on either side gradually closed in, narrowing the valley down until lost in undu- lating hills, which indicated our approach to the river. Russian River is a stream of con- siderable magnitude when swollen by the winter rains, but at present is almost lost by filtering through the cobble-stone and sand over which it flows. The bottom land along this river is justly celebrated for the corn it produces. We have seen tall corn on tlie western prairies, but none that would bear comparison with the corn HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. 135 of Russian River. At five in tlie evening we lialted before tiie Sotoyome, tlie only lionse of public entertainment in Ileaklsbnrg. This vil- laj^e might with propriety be dubbed the ' Vil- lage of Woods,' as it is completely embowered in a grove of oak and madrono, giving to it an air of quiet and seclusion really inviting to those used to the bustle and confusion of more populous places. Occupying a position just al)ovc the continence of Dry Creek and Iiussian River, it is the natural channel through which the produce of both valleys must pass, thus giving to it superior advantages as an inland town. Here it was necessary to lay in our sup- ply of provisions and ammuintion, as there was no trading post higher up on the route we de- signed taking. A couple of sacks of Hour, tea, coffee, and necessary condiments, with a keg of powder, lead, shot, etc., completed our outtit; and as we had already bargained for a pack ani- mal til convey it to its destination in the moun- tains, we smoked our jdpes and retired to i-est, felicitating ourselves on the pi'ospect of an early start in tlie morning. In this, however, we were disappointed, for when ready to start, the Hibernian that presided over i/iat livery stable informed us that the horse he designed ns to have was on a ranc/io some distance from town, that he had sent after it, and was confident it would be brought in sometime during the day. This was annoying — it overcame our captain's usual ecjuanimity, causing him, we are sorry to say, to use language 7U)t to be found in the Westminister catechism. We remonstrated — we threatened- informed him that one of our number was a lawyer by profession, and heavy on livery stable practice, but it was no go, and only called forth a proposition that he would let us have a horse if we would pay doul)le the stipulated price. This did not tend to molify us, and we left that stable vowing that we would jiatronize some other establishment on our re- turn. After a delay of a couple of hours, we started up Dry Creek Valley with our muni- tions packed by an ill-visaged, iiall-faced animal tliat wonlil havi' passed as a duplicate of the famous ' Rosinante.' A youthful and inconsid- erate member of our company was in the hal)it of urging him forward by exclaiming 'git u]> and git, old bally,' but our captain very prop- erly checked him, by reminding him of the fate of forty rude boys in a land that aliounded in bears. " It is about twelve miles from Ilealdsbui-g to the canon at the head of Dry Creek ^'alley. This valley consists of a rich loam formed by the decayed vegetation that is annually boi'ue down and deposited by the mountain streams. Its luxuriant fields of corn indicated its capacity to }noduce, and we are much mistaken if the (lay is far distant when hop and tobacco culture will claim the attention and jirove remuner- ative to those disposed to engage in it. At the head of the valley we bade adieu to ci\ilization and wagon roads, and taking the pack trail, be- gan the ascent of the rugged mountain. Onward and upward we toiled our way, some leading their horses, others preferring to let their's go ahead, therelty giving them the advantage of 'tail holt' to assist them in their ascent. Before we reached the summit bandanas were ill requisition, and standing collars were meta- morphosed into drooping ' I'yrons.' .\s htbor- ions as was the ascent, we were amply i-opaiurcam]) was on a ridge that formed the divide between tlie east and west Gualala, and had been occu- pied by some adventurous stockjnan, who had erected and occupied a temporary shanty, but finding it an unprofitable speculation, had moved with his flocks to some other section ot the countiy, leaving the ' liuekeye House ' as a standing monument to his folly. We took formal possession of the premises, and made the house answer the doul)le purpose of dining room and sleeping apartments, whilst a hollow redvvood tree close by was converted into a magazine. After the usual routine of camp duty was dispatched, all hands were busy in running balls, cleaning guns, and making all needful preparations for the next day's sport. One after another, after having put their rifles in a condition, as they believed, to drive the center at any given distance, joined the circle around the camp fire, and the wreaths of smoke tliat circling aloft from half a dozen pipes, assuming EISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. all kinds of fantastic sliajjes, appeared to be the signal for stories of adventure and hairbreadth cscajjes. Our LTuide took the lead by recounting iticideiits that had occurred in that region- of two brothers out luinting. one shooting the other's arm ott", mistaking him for a deer; of a man hitciiing his mule close to the chaparal, to hunt down a cafion, and retnrning was de- ceived as to locality, and seeing his mule in tiie brush shot him supposing him to be a grizzly i>car: and several other incidents of like nature. Another member of the company related an instance of a hunter shooting a cow mistaking her for a sijuinvl; but the palm was awarded to our captain who relateil a circumstance of a jiarty of hunters of Santa Clara, going to the mountains to hunt bear, taking with them a donkey to pack bear; but who returned in a ehort time bringing with them the pack-saddle, the bears having unceremoniously packed off the donkey. The next day we scoured the forests and delved into dark canons in i^uest of ^auie. AVe did not find deer as plenty as w'e had anticipated, l)ut every member of our com- pany managed to get a shot during the day, and each maintained that he had hit his deer, but owing to causes he could explain satisfactorily to themselves, the stricken deer eluded their grasji. Two of our company, however, more for- tunate than the rest, brought in substantial tokens of tlieir skill with the ritle. aixl that night there was atlded to the liill of I'arc of the I Buckeye House' roast \enison. venison stew, venison steak and broiled venison. The reverber- ations of our rifles through the mountains, awaked the solitudes and rendered the game weary. Deer had to be hunted from their lair in the underbrush, and the bear scented danger when afar off, and when seen were generally out of range of rifle shot, and showing a dis- position to avoid close ])ro.ximity to their new neighbors. Two of our company, hunting to- gether one day, however, were fortunate enough to surprise a black bear when up a tir tree lopping acorn's from an oak. whose branches intei'locked the fir. A AmA from a small riHe that carried a ball but a size larger than a buck- shot, caused him to let all holds go and drop to the earth, but did not prevent his flight. Hunter number two, to use his own language, 'shot at the dust bruin kicked up,' but with no other effect than to accelerate his speed down the mountain. "At the end of the week the > smoke house' wc had extemporized was filled to overflowing with snmked venison, and we decided to move camji to ' iiear liidge,' eight miles distant, hojiing there to gratify our penchant for bear hunting, as we had already began to regard deer as rather small game. We did not take our departure from Buckeye without regret, and the week we spent there will always be looked back to by us as an oasis in life's desert. There is much in that region well calculated to arouse the enthusiasm of descriptive writers, but as we have neitbei' space nor talent wc consign 'llie task to some more facile pen. The most prom- inent land-mark in that region is the ■ Uock Pile,' three miles west of Buckeye, it being a conical shaped mountain fornied of massi\e rocks, and entirely destitute of vegetation. It both serves as a guide to hunters, and stands sentinel over a grave at its base, where rests an unfortunate adventurer, who was murdered hy an Indian two years since. "On our arrival at Bear Kidge, wc found, a- at Ibickeye, an untenanted cabin, of which we took possession; but there was a history con nected therewith that was recorded with the crimson current of life upon the floor and rude bed in the corner, that for a time cast a shadow o\er our party. Our guide informed us that al)out si.x months pi-evious two men not resi- dents there, were luinting on the ridge — that one was shot by the accidental xlischarge of his rifle, the ball tearing ott" one of his hands and entering his side. He was borne to the caliin and a surireon sent for from Healdslmrg. lie lingered thirty hours, and the surgeon arrived just in time to see him breath his last. Beneath the wide spread branches of a chestnut-oak. a short distance from the cabin, he sleeps his last niSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. long sleep. Kemoviiig, as far as possilile, all traces of the unfortunate sufferer, we occupied tlie cabin four days. As yet, we had failed to t-iglit a bear on i>ear Ridge, altliough we had added the carcasses of several deer to our larder. Our ease was becoming a desperate one, for we had baked the last of our flour, and worse still. our supply of tobacco was exhausted. It was Saturday morning, and we debated tlie pro- priety of subsisting upon meat alone for one day, rather than enter Healdslturg on Sabbath even- ing; but tobacco turned the scale, and it was voted to pack up and start, when it was dis- covered that one of our horses liad decamped during the night. By means of a trail made by a picket rope attached to the horse it was dis- covered tiiat it had taken an opposite direction from tiie trail by which we had entered, and three of our party started in pursuit. After an absence of two hours they returned, not only having the good fortune to lind the horse, but having shot a deer and also a large brown bear. This streak of good luck was hailed with delight by all, for it had not only enalded our company to return with a bear skin as a trophy of the chase, but quieted the nerves of individual members who disliked to return to their ' lady- loves' without the promised bottle of ' bar's ile,' with which to anoint their raven or golden locks, as the case might be. "We had achieved the object of our party, — our success was equal to our anticipations, and loaded down with venison, we commenced our homeward iiiiiieh. Before bidding a tinal adieu to I'ear liidge, we wish to note the existence on that and surrounding ridges of a species of timber we had supposed did not exist in California, we refer to the old-fashioned chestnut. The fruit is not yet ripe, but the ground under some of the trees is covered with !)urs that have been detached by the wind and birds. Some of the trees are two feet in diamater and remarkably tall, which to our mind precludes the idea, as sug- gested by some, of their being • chincapins.' "We halted at Flat Ridge, and were laid under lasting obligations to a resident stockman, who shared with us his tobacco and flour. "We will ever hold him in grateful remembrance, and may his shadow never grow less. As we had to make a forced march in order to reach Ilealdsburg that night, we were in the saddle bi-ight and early, and had soon surmounted a ridge from which we had a last view of our hunting grounds. Here our attention was called to a large madrone tree, close to the trail, npon which were carved various initials, wliich were almost obliterated by the growth of the tree; but high up and in legible characters, was inscribed 1841. As we rode onward, we could not but contrast the present California with the California of 1841, and wonder if they who left their record on the madrone tree have been spared to witness the change. As we drew near to Ilealdsburg the cravings of appetite increased our desire to patronize ' mine host ' of the Sotoyome; but again we were doomed to disappointment in Ilealdsburg; for the Sotoy ome and many other buildings had crumbleil before that ruthless element that has prostrated so many of California's fair villages; and so complete had been our isolation, that a week had elapsed since it was destroyed, and yet we had no intimation of the occurrence until we entei'ed the village. In the absence of a hotel, we resorted to a restaurant, and if the propri- etor made a profit on that meal, we are inclined to believe he will get rich, for seven hungrier men never entered that burg. We returned to Petaluma after an absence of sixteen days, feel- ing refreshed and rejuvenated by our camp life. In conclusion we will say to those afllicted with the dyspepsia, or any other fashionable disease, try Buckeye Camp two weeks, and if it does not effect a cure, why then prepare, for your end draweth nigh." Such was the experiences of the writer twenty-eight years ago in the regions described; and yet, long after he has passed away the sharp report of the sportsman's rifle will ring through those same forests, for those dark canons and chap- arral covered mountanis will ever aft'ord a safe HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. r;j,jp , JH^rJ,-',J^,^';3;:jPrJ^r^r>.-'l -'r J r J |-lrJr J?»?Ji , m CHAPTER XIII. iMMIi.KATiii.N I'olKS I.NTn SiiNnMA ColNTV KVKKV \(H)I< AM) COKNKK OK TMK COINTY UCI ITIED THK (ML.Mln- DKIWIIKN I'ETAr.U>[A AND l>Ol)E(;A KKl IIKII. ilK I'dTATuKS, liAKI.KV, WHEAT AM) DAIS Santa Rosa and Rissian Rivkk Valleys i-uodijc the he wheat axd ( ok.n — ihe yeak 1864 — LAM) TKOUIiLES — THE Boi)E<;A WAR THE II KA LI )Sllli IK, W Ali Th E MuLDUEW SlIAUoW THE Miranda <;i;axt -the T'o-ioRtjuEs (iHANT. rf>TP to 1855 SoiioHiii roiiiity was in a coiuli- :*l}'jl tion of confused transition from almost ^5P^ iiiitivo wilds to permanent civilized occn- ]);unjy. AVliili' the county was largely covered hy y|)aiiisli yrants. yet the holders of such, as a class, had not yet accjuired flocks and herds to occupv their broad acres, and the adventurous Americans very often located within the lines of such grants with as little reverence as though settling upon government land. The grant holders, as a class, had little idea of land value, and many of them were willing to accept from settlers on their domain very moderate prices for the laud. Many, if not most of the settlers, got their land at prices not much above what they Would have had to pay had it been go^ern- inent land. There were c.vccptions, however, to tills rule, and in a few instances there was con- sideral)lc friction and trouble between settlers and grant owners, but this will be referred to later on. .Vbout 1855 a tidal-wave of immigration seemed to sweep over yonoma County, and it was really a marvel how soon every nook and corner of the county available for farming or grazino; was ferretted out and occupied. It was now families seeking homes who came, and following their coming school-houses and churches began to multiply. In truth, within the space of a few years, Sonoma County became one of the most I prosperous agricultural counties of the State. At first, famous for her Bodega potatoes, she I soon took first rank among the graiii-growini,'' and dairying counties in the State. In tlie space of a few years towns and villages came foi-ward with marvelous growth. J'eta- luma as a shipping point made rapid strides. Santa Rosa as the county seat was making siib- \ stantial progress. Ilealdsburg, where in 185-1 ! had been but a residence and blacksmith shop, I became a thriving village, and Cloverdale began to show evidence of its future destiny. Sonoma, ; ever famous as a center around wiiich clustered historic memories, became far-famed for her productive veneyards. l^odega, old in her de- velopment there in connection with Russian occupation, took a new lease of life, and Hoilega Bay was whitened by a fleet of sails that carried her products to the San Francisco market. lUoomtield surrtuinded by as fei'tile a country as the sun ever sone upon became the center of a populous and pros|)erous farming district. HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. In tlmse days the fatness was exuding from tlic !-t-iil of Sunoina County, and tlie crops gathered tlierefroin were abundant to the full measure. While the growing of potatoes coast- wise, e(_immencing with Two Rock Valley and extending to iJodega was yet a large industry, the irrowing of wheat, barley and oats soon took precedence and became a source of great profit to farmers. Farming of whatever kind, whether the growing of potatoes or cereals was usually conducted on a large scale. Fifty or a hundred acres of jiotatoes was not considered a large plant, and of grain it was no uncommon thing for a farmer to plant any where from one to three hundred acres, and a large farmer often went far beyond this. Our favorable sea- sons for seeding and planting of such vast crops was made easy by the improvements in farming imj)lemeuts, but the gathering of such vast crops often taxed to its utmost capacity the labor attainable. For potato digging, the rem- nant of the almost extinct Intlian tribes of this region were brought into re(juisitioti, and be- came quite effective aids in farming. The writer once had in employ twenty-two Russian River Indians, and found them excellent potato diggers. During the season tif gathering potatoes these dusky childi-en of nature used to perform a large portion of that kind of labor. But the vices of civilization was fast thinning their ranks, and in the course of years Chinese labor stepped in and did the main portion of the drudgeries ot farm work. The main valleys through the center of the county, Petaluma. Santa Rosa and Russian River were always devoted maiiily to the grow- ing of grain. The wealth- of grain produced by the virgin soil of these rich valleys is almost incalculable. Russian River Valley in a very early day jiroved its worth as a corn producing region, and in later years became famous for the ])roduction of hops. A writer some years ago drew the following pen picture of the Rus- sian River Valley: " For more than sixty miles in length Russian River before taking its tinal westerly course to- ward the ocean, perambulates from Mendocino County southerly through one of the widest and truly alluvial valleys in the State. As a corn growing country it is probably without a rival on the J'acitic coast, and a good corn country can always be relied upon as suitable for a large share of the staple products of tem- perate climes. •'We see, therefore, along this great alhnial belt, the whole family of cereals cultivated with singular success, and in the main cjuite free from smut, or injury from climatic influence. As far as any attemj)ts have been made to grow fruit, it succeeds admirably. Along the bor- ders of the \ alley, at the foot of the range of hills that bound it on either side, the vine flourishes luxuriantly, i)roducing grapes of fair size and a flavor of peculiar richness; and we cannot but believe that the time is near at hand when the acres of vineyards aloug this great valley may be counted by hundreds, if not thousands. What the effect of climate may be upon the health of vines and fruit trees along the more central [iortions of the valley, remains to be seen. Of the indigenous forest trees, the decid- uous oak predominates largely; and throughout nearly the entire extent of the valley may be seen this monarch of our lowland forests, in its wide-spreading, but varied and beautiful forms, standing apart and alone, or clustered in beauti- ful groups of a score or more upon a single •acre; and though at this season of the year without a single leat, all are draped in their beautiful pale green, mossy livery, that, pendu- lous from every twig and limli, imparts a mel- lowed softness to the breeze, that alike in summer and winter gently sweeps along the valley." Taking the decade-aiid-a-half between 1855 and 1870, farming in Sonoma County achieved its greatest results. Of course, there were variableness of seasons and prices, but taken as a whole the results were more tlian highly satis- factory. In the single season of 18B4 the farmers literally gathered a harvest of gold. That yea)' the whole southern portion of Cali- HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. tbrnia was made barren by a drought. Here tlie crops were good, and wheat was sold at all the way from three to four iiiul-a-half cents pur liouiid. Even renters, who had [)ut in large crops on shares, found themselves coniparatively rich at the end ot" the season. The productiveness of our farms and the ac- cumulatinir wealth from dairy products and Ntock-raising were promotive of other industries and created in the people a desire for advance from the primitive surroundings that had marked their early-life struggles. Ornate coun- ti'y homes began to multiply, and the county from end to end began to show the evidences of ])ermanency and solidity. This was not con- fined to the large valleys along the line of lead- ing tlioroughfares; in every little gem of a valley, sandwiched in among the hills and moun- tains, there was manifested a growing taste in the direction of more comfort and convenience in home surroundings. This advancement was made in the lace and teeth of ditticulties and discouragements seldom encountered by the pioneer settlers of any other country. As lias already been stated, many of the settlers went upon lands claimed as Spanish grants, hut of which the titles had not yet been adjudicated by the United States Government. In the early fifties a commission, consisting of three members, had been appointed to investi- gate these titles, and otdy such as passed mus- ter under their examination got standing in court, and were started on the tortuous way to the court of final resort at Washington City. The ijcnnineness of title to niany of these yrants \\eri; nf very fishy odor. Cnder the treaty of (Tuadalupe Hidalgo the United States Govern- ment had plighted its faith to give due credence to all genuine grants made by duly accredited authority of the Mexican go\ernment. This the government certainly did to the full measure. Elsewhere is published a list of the Spanish grants that in whole, or in ]iar% fell within the lines of Sonoma County. We have also j)ointed out the evidences of pwmaneiit habitation witiiin the boundai'ies(jf the county at the time Sonoma was captui'etl. It was for the courts, and nut the histoi'ian, to j)ass upon the validity of these giants. Jf there was wholesale perjury in- dulged in to secure many confirmations, that is now a matter between the consciences of wit- nesses and their (4od. It is now all happily passed, and all land titles are in perfect I'ejiose. All now buw to the rule. Stare (lecisi-<. I!ut it is the province of history to recite events the outgrowth of these confiicting lanil titles. There were numerous "Settlers' Leagues" organized to resist the confirmation of many of these grants. Lawyers were always to be found who would, for a liberal fee, give "squatters" on grants positive assurance that the grant was fraudulent and that he could " knock the bottom out of it." These leagues, in many instances, became secret conclaves, with all the pass-words aifd paraphenalia of secret oi-ganizations. That they should ultimate in resistance to legally constituted authorities was but natural. And even the claimants of grants sometimes were guilty of the assumption that they were higher than the law. While there had been a great deal of friction between settlers and grant hohl- ers the first serious collision occurred at Bodega. There was no end of land troubles in Sonoma County, growing out of occupation by settlers on what was believed to be fraudulent Sj)anisli grants. This led to a great deal of trouble, and ultimately to resistance to the mandates of law. To give the reader a clear conception of the real temper and feeling of the public at that time on this momentous (question we give the language of an editorial which appeared in the I'etaliima Journal of ]''ebruary 18, IHSH: "It is boldly asserted tliat there are eighty land grants in this State, which can be proved to have been forged and sworn thus far through the courts by perjury. They lie it is stated, in twenty-seven counties, and cover the homes of nearly 5,000 settlers. AVhether there are any located in this county, we are not informed. It would be a strange transaction if there are not. Our location, and the wull-known i-ichno^s of soil, would certainly be a >trong bait t" tempt 132 HIliTOnT OF SONOMA COUNTY. the palate of the greedy land cormorants wlio have perpetrated these wholesale frauds. It therefore becomes all well-ineaiiiiig and right- thinking citizens to join wit!) their brethren of San Francisco, in the work of ferreting ont and exposing these fraudulent grants. To this end let every person remonstrate against the j)assage. by the Assembly, of tlie iniquitous and unjust resolution which was spawned by Senator Will- iams, petitioning Congress for the passage of a law to prevent reviews in cases wliere patents have issued; or in other words asking of Con- gress to screen the actual robber, and protect the receiver of stolen property under the name of ' bona tide purcliasers and encumbrancers.' Where, we ask, can a parallel be found to this act? Rob and defraud Uncle Sam of the public domain and then ask him to desist from investi- gation, the object of which is to prove the theft; and all because the receiver of stolen goods may lie a sufferer I As infamous as are the inten- tions of Mr. Williams' move, we nevertheless see the Senate passing favorably upon it. If we mistake not, our own representative in that body was among its supporter. A knowledge of the unscrupulous intentions of these landgrabbers' has clearly disclosed to settlers the precipice over which they are being rutldessly hurried. A just and proper spirit of resistance to the attempt is beginning to manifest itself in vari- ous sections. Meetings are being lield, reso- lutions of disproval of Mr. Williams' ' substi- tute ' passed, and Anti-Grant Leagues formed. If moderation and temperance of action pre- dominate, as we trust will be the case, immense good will result to the people at large. The recent developments in the Santillan claim, is conclusive evidence of this fact. Let a union of action be made and time and investigation will rend the screen that now obscures and darkens the homes of scores of the people of California. We shall look with confidence to our representa- ti\es in the Assembl)', to aid in arresting the passage of the resolution by that body." In continuance of the same subject the -Jvur- «'^? of Februarv 25, 1859, said: "Bv reference to another column, it will be seen that the people in this locality are begin- ning to move in the work of exposing the alleged land frauds, and of heading General Williams and Judge lialdwin in their infamous attempt to rob and despoil the people of California. In the eagerness of these pliant tools of Liinantour, I'reinont, etc., to do the bidding of their heart- less and unscrupulous masters, they have moved in so bold and hasty a manner as to neglect that precaution so necessary to successful villainy — the covering up and secreting of all evidence of evil intent. The object sought is too obvious to pass unnoticed by the most obtuse. As a natural conse(|uence, this course on the part of the land claimants, has aroused a just and pro- per spirit of opposition on the part of the people. The final result of this struggle, will, we believe, be the securing to the public domain of leagues upon leagues of land now claimed by land sharpers under forged titles. That many of these fraudulent claims are located on this side of the bay, we are told there no longer e.xists a doubt. Justice then demands that our people move with a united effort in exposing these frauds. "A brief reference to the land-claim history of California, presents some startling facts. In the year 1849 William Cary Jones was sent to Cali- fornia by the authorities at Washington, with instructions to ascertain the number and extent of Spanish land grants. In his report he states the result of his investigation to be the dis- covery of five hundred and seventy-six grants, large and small, several of which was unfinished. Of this number, several were afterward proved fraudulent and rejected. Upon the establish- ment of the land commission, no less than eight hundred and thirteen claims were filed in before it for action ! A writer in the Alta., asserts that Mr. Jones informed him that after he had returned to Washington, he was offered *20,000 to insert in his rejiort one grant — fraudulent of course, and for which they wished a record in order to give it some show of validity I Com- ment is unnecessary. The facts alone tell the HIbTOBT OP SONOMA COUNTY. 133 whole story, and bid our (iitizens to be up and doing." The tii'st of these coiitliets over land titles tiiat assuuietl a very tlirealeiiiiig aspect was in June of 1859, and the scene of the disturl>ance was Hodega ranch. The foiiovving in a state- ment of the case and what occurred as touiid in tiie Sonoma County Jonriinl of June 3d, 185'J: IIIE lioDKOA WAl:. "The original grantee of tliis ranch was Caj)- tain Stephen Smith, who claimed by grant eight leagues of land, which amount was con- firmed to him In' the Hoard of Land Commis- sioners. He tlien leased to Uethuel Phelps & Co. the right to cut and manufacture into lum- ber tlie red-wood belonging to the said eight leagues of land, for a term of ninety-nine years, for the sum of $65,000. Phelps & Co., imme- diately took possession of the lands so leased, and still continue in possession of the same. After setting apart to I'helps & Co. their leased portion of the claim, there was left a large tract of agricultural lands outside of said eight leagues, claimed l)y no one. which was then set- tled upon and divided up into (piarter sections. Thus matters stood at the death of Captain Smith. We would here state, that various sur- veys have lieen made from time to time by dif- fererit parties and among them one by Clement Co.\, United States Deputy Surveyor, in accord- ance with which the grant was finally patente the place occupied by Mr. Rice's family, about one mile northwest of Healdsburg. We arrived at Rice's at 11 o'clock, where we found about fifty resolute settlers insissarently satisfied with the day's woi'k. "It was generally believed that from two to four hundred armed settlers were in the imme- diate vicinity of the house during the time — though not more than fifty were to be seen. A friend informed me that he saw a large number of armed men in a ravine back of the house about one hundred and fifty yards off. "Not one of the men composing the posse carried a gun, and but few of them had small arms. "The greatest order prevailed — not a drunken or disorderly man to be seen. Mr. (leo. Hran- stradder received a severe cut under the arm by falling from a stumj) and coming in contact with a jiicket fence. No other accident."! hap- pened." The sheriff with his ^w^wc having failed to vindicate the law. the strong arm of the State was invoked as a denier resort. AVhat steps were taken is thus stated editorially in the Ar(/ns of the 24th of September: "The public mind is again being agitated bv the settlers' ditficulties in the nfigliburluioerma- nent homes. Let the difficulties just past be remembered only to guai'd against the recur- rence of like scenes in the future." SgUATTEKS ON TUK (;EKM.\N (iRANT. In 1801 there were about eighteen settlers who located on the (German grant, on the coast bordei-ing on the (iualala Kiver and extending southward toward Fort Ross. The claimant was William Beihler, and being a foreigner, he commenced suit of ejectment in the United States District Court. The writer, then a United States Deputy Marshal, had occasion to serve papers on those squatters in 1861 and knows how " sultry " they threatened to make it for Beihler if he over dared to " materialize in that neck of woods." Beihler got his ranch, notwithstanding, but he has seldom visited it. The grant has now largely passed into other hands. Tin: Mrr.nuKW shadow. By reference to the last chapter on Russian occupation at Fort Ross it will be seen that reference is made to a bill of sale given to Cap- tain John A. Sutter, ])urporting to convey to him Bussian title to laud. Tiiis title was a source of considerable trouble to Sonoma County settlers along about 1S60-'1. One Col- onel Muldrew turned up then with that title and created quite a panic. The Joiirtnil of Alay 11, 1860 said: "The Sutter, or Aluldrew claim, lying be- tween Cape Mendocino and Cape Drake, or Punta Reyes, and about which considerable in- terest is at present manifest by the people of this section, covers about two hundred and eighty leagues of land, and embraces within its bounds, in addition to a large area of public domain, several confirmed Spanish grants. As most of our readers are aware, this is tlie so- called Russian American Fur Company's claim; but we suggest that the territory should here- after be known as the "Muldrew Principality. UtaTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY Onr reason for this is. that the Colonel claims that the Russian Fur Company held and exer- cised exclusive control of the territory during a certain number of years (about thirty-three, we think), and then transferred their rights, privileges and immunities to Captain J. A. Sutter, who in turn sold to the present claimant, he, Muldrew, should of right now be entitled to exercise all the rights and privileges, l)oth civil and political, which belonged to the said original claimants. Let the claim then be known as the 'Muldrew Principality, and let its rightful ]triiice assert and exercise his authority! True, Uncle Sam may not relish the thing much, but how is he to help himself? It was Mexican territory alone that he conquered, and not that of the Russian Fur Company ! What right then has he to complain, though this principal- ity does lay 'adjacent to,' and is surrounded by his potato patch? ' Hy the law of nations" [ior the interpretation of which, and in further proof of the soundness of our arguments, we refer the reader to the articles in the Argus, over the signature of' Veritas,' which we think cannot fail to convince all as their author is known to be no less a person than the valiant Colonel Zabriskie, Colonel Muldrew's legal ad- viser and expounder), the Russians acquired sovereignty over it, and by the right of pur- chase, Colonel Muldrew is now the legitimate prince and ruler; but, like the ' Nephew of his Uncle,' we ojiine he will tind Jordan a hard road to travel, ere he is permitted to grasp the golden scepter of this ' Kiiiiiilom liy the sea.'" Colonel Muldrew began to force his claim to this vast estate with much vigor. He had as his attorney Colonel .1. C. Zaliriskie, who as author of the " Laiul Laws of California" was recognized as a lawyer of much ability. Several settlers' meetings were held in Big \'alley, at which Colonel Zabriskie was present and ex- plained the nature of the title upon which his client set up a claim to lands, much ot which had already been purchased by the settlers from grantees holding under Mexican title. Most of the settlers failed to see the potency of the ar- guments used and Hatly refused to give any countenance to the Muldrew claims. Some, however, seem to have been fearful that his claim was something more than a mere shadow, and we have been informed that Mr. Rennitz of the Fort Ross grant was $6,000 poorer on ac- count of his credulity. Be this as it may, the Muldrew title reached a final disposition in a decision rendered by Judge ISIcKiiistry in Octo- ber of 1860, which was as follows: •'Curtis vs. Svtfer, et al. — This is a motion to dismiss the bill npon the pleadings. I grant the motion, assuming that all the facts stated in the complaint are true. The complainant does not content himself with stating that the de- fendants set up some claim or demands to his lands, but specitically decribes their alleged title from the Russian Fur Company to the de- fendant, Sutter. Admitting that the averment that the other defendants 'claim under Sntter,' as sufficient allegation that they have receiveil deeds from Sutter, still the • Russian Fur C'oin- pany ' is not a legitimate source of title. If an action of ejectment were Ijrought by defeiulants against a party in possession upon the deeds named., as referred to in the bill, those deeds could not constitute a color of title; the defend- ant in possession would not be required to in- troduce any testimony to impeach or rebut the deeds. Hence, upon the authority of Ctiiiin cs. Sntter, et al., and Pi.vleij rs. irii(/f//ns, 1 am of opinion that no preliminary injunction should have been issued in the present case, and that the injunction already issued ought not now to be made final or jierpetuaj. And since the only other remedy sought by the bill oi- whicli I'Luild be obtained after a feigned issue, had been de- cided in favor of j)laintit} is, that the deeds of defendants be canceled, which is not iMily a more effective remedy tlian an injunction, it a])](ears to me that if the Supivme Couit lia\e decided that no injunction should issue, they have also decideil that no decree ol cancelfitioii should be rendered. " Atfaiii, this bill does not show bv anv definite 138 HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. description of what portion of the rancho the plaintitf is in the actual possession. It admits tliat large portions of it are held adversely by persons not yiarties to this suit. This is not a case wliere any K. ^V. Ml KiNSTRY, " District Judge." This decision seems to have effectually and forever, laid the ISIuldrew title to land acquired through Finssian occupancy at Foil Ross. TUK AKUOVO UK SAN AN'ni.N'lu. This grant was a source of much disijiiict and unrest to settlers. Originally there were two claimants before the board of land commission- ers, Ortega and Miranda. Ortega had l>een a Mexican sicklier, and married the daughter of Miranda. He claimed to have received a grant of the Arroyo de San Antonio, and placed his father-in-law, Miranda, in occupancy thereof On account of domestic infelicity Ortega went to Oregon and was there when gold was discov- ered in California. In the meantime Miranda seems to have received a grant for the same land on the ground of abandonment by Ortega. The two titles passed into the hands respectively of James F. Stnart and Thomas I>. Valentine. They were both laid before the land commis- sioners, but ultimately Valentine witlxlrew his claim, alleging as a reason that he was satisHed that the Miranda claim was without good foun- dation. Stuart litigated the Ortega claim to the highest tribunal in the land, and it was re- jected. The land was then declared subject to entry as go\ernmeut land. The outside lands were so entei'cd, and the lands embraced within the city of Petaluma were entered in lots under what is known as the "town site bill." Now it was that Valentine went to Congress and sought the passage of a special bill to restore the Miranda grant to a hearing in court, claim- ing that he had discovered new evidence which showed the genuiness of that grant. For sev- eral years the settlers on the land and residents of Petaluma combatted and defeated every at- tempt to have the case reopened. Finally a compromise was made whei'eby Valentine agreed that if he made his title to the Arroyo de San Antonio grant he would accept " lien scrip " from the government for the same, and not at- tempt to disturb the title of settlers organized through government to lands embraced in that grant. The years had run their course and in 1873 this compromise was reached. In the Petaluma Argvs of December 19, 1878. we find the following in relation thereto: •' The cloud that has hovered over the lands on which the city of Petaluma is situated is foi tiinately fast dispelling. The history of the various struggles for title that have involved the settlers here would form a voluminous book, and the inconvenience, dread, uncertainty and possi- ble insecurity of our title have in no small de- gree retarded our growth and prosperity as a city. The time seems to have arrived at last when perfect security of title can be claimed, without possibility of being overwhelmed or being alarmed at some further period by a 'trumped up claim." The 'Ortega' has been killed by the Supreme Court, and the ' Miranda' will soon be tfoatel off on the public domain, no more to annoy or irritate people. Then, with HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNT Y. ITncIe Sam's title in our pockets, Me can say, ' These are onr lands; this is onr heritage; here we will hnild onr homes and fonnd a city that will rank first among the mnnicipalities of the State.' "Below will lie found jnililislied entire the the decree issned in the C!irciiit Court for San Francisco, confirming the Miranda claim hut snhjecting the claimant to the proviso of the act of Congress, which says he ' may select, and shall be allowed patents for an equal quantity of unoccupied and unappropriated public lands fif the United States ' elsewhere. " Following is the decree which is in sub- stance the same as urged ujkju the court by the (Tnited States District Attorney Lattimer: " ' In this case, on hearing the proofs and allegations, it is ordered, adjudged and decreed that the said claim of the petitioners is valid, and that the same be and hereby is confirmed; but this decree and confirmation are hereby made subject to the restrictions and limitations prescribed in the act of (!ongress entitled, ' An act for the Ilelief of Thomas 15. A^alentine, approved June 5, 1872. "'The land of which confirmation is made is the same which was granted by Manuel Mich- eltorena, in the name of the Mexican Govern- ment to Juan Miranda, on the 8th day of ( )ctol)er, 1844, and on which he resided in his life-time, and is known by the name of the Kanclio Arroyo de San Antonio, and bounded by the Lagnna and Arroyo of the same name, and the pass and Estredo of retaluma, and is in extent three square leagues, if that quantity is to be found within the exterior boundaries, and no more; and, if a less quantity is included in said boundaries, then said lesser (piantity is confirmeJ. " JjOEE.N/.o Sawyer, " Circuit .Intlge.' " in January of 1S74 the following editorial relating to the Miranda grant appeared in the I'etaluina Argvs, and was conclusive of nil further trouble alwut Valentine's claim : •■When there is a shadow upon the title to oiir homes there is always an uneasiness tliat periodically breaks into downright fear, and oftentimes panic. There seems to be no secu- rity. \Vc build elegant residences and beautify our grounds, but so long as there is a question to the title of our lands, there is a lurking fear always that some day in our lifetime or of our children, the lands may be wrested from us, and we would have our ' trouble for onr pains." Again, in event of a desire to sell our realty, the shadow comes up, and our property is depre- ciated thereby. And this has been the case with Petaluma from the very day of its settle- ment. First we had the Ortega and Miranda grants to fight. As if to double teams against the settlers the Miranda claimant withdrew from the United States Commission upon a compromise and helped to fight the battle for the Ortega claim, which, after passing the Ctnnmis- sion, was adjudged a fraud by the Supreme Court. The Government then issued its pat- ents to the land claimed by the grant, and our people with Uncle Sam's title in their pockets, felt comparatively secure. But the trouble had not yet ceased. T. B. Valentine, the claimant under the Miranda saw that he had made a mis- take in his alliance with the Ortega, rushed to Washington and endeavored, by an act of C'on- gress, to get his claim reopened and before the courts. Here was trouble and vexation again. The Miranda claim was believed by many to be valid, while others took the countrary view. Whoever was right recent events go to show that it would have been a dangerous experiment had the bill l)een passed as it was first inti'o- dnced. Through the influence of onr represen- tatives, however, the bill was beaten. This ditl not seem to satisfy the claimant. At nearly every successive ('ongress he was on hainl with a bill for his relief. Finally to put tlie matter forever at rest, a bill passed Congress allowing him to jiresent his claim to the courts, and in the event that he should ])rove the validity of his title he was to execute a deed to the lands claimed under the grant, and in lieu thereof take a corresponding amount of public lands 140 HISTORV OF SONOMA COUNTY. wlierever lie might find tliein ami elect. The suit was accordingly coniinenced in the Circuit (^oiirt in San Francisco, and npon trial a decree was issued to tiie piaintitl', when it was taken on appeal to tiie Supreme Court of tlie I'liited States for tiiuU adjudication. Many rumors have been rife that Mr. Valentine, haviiiii- ijot into court and proven liis claim, was not neces- sarily compelled by tlie terms of the act to take lien lands, hut might, upon the atHrmance of liis case at Washington, come ujion and dispos- sess the settlers here. A good deal of talk has been made, and a great deal of fear endured by our people over these complications. '• Finally, however, like all our worldly troubles this vexed and complicated question has been finally settled by Mr. Valentine giving a deed to government through our energetic and faithful Senator, Mr. Sargent, as the follow- ing dispatches will explain: " •WASuiNtiToN, Jan. 5. — Senator Sargent has received from T. B. Valentine, of San Fran- cisco, to be held in trust, a deed in favoi- of the United States, executed by \'alentine and wife, conveying the Miranda grant, in Sonoma ( bounty; the deed to be delivered to the t'om- missioners of the (leneral Land Office on affirm- ance by the Supreme Court of the judgment recently rendered in Valentine's favor by the Circuit Court of California in an action autlior- ized by Congress. The deed conveys to the United States all of A^alentine's interest in said grant, and Valentine by the law of last session, is to receive land scrip to the same extent on un- occupied puldic land. This quiets title in favor of purchasers from the Government on thegrant.' "'W.\suiNuT()N,Jan.7. — The United Slates Su- preme (Jourthavingconfirmed the decision of the Circuit Court upholding the validity of the Miranda grant, its mandate to that effect was sent to California to-day, and the deed executed by Valentine conveying all his i-ight and title to the United States in trust for the settlers, was delivered to the Commissioner of the (len- eral Land Office this afternoon. This action perfects tlie settlers' title to all lands covered by the grant, including the town of Pctaluma. and puts an end to all litigation ai\d further uneasi- ness in the matter.' " AV^e may state also in this connection that i>ur fellow-townsman, lion, (ieorge Pearce, met Mr. A'alentine on the streets of San Francisco on Wednesday, when Valentine tul^^ ^R^gfiSi SKky^gMMBBE \ GEOLOGY, MINERALOGY AND FOSSILS. \ , ^^•V^^^V^^^x^<^v.A'^A^•v•^?F^.^A.^•^^A^•^,v^s=g;^Y: VWW'l'VAl XIY. HasAI.T RimK ASlJK-ilV I ACTMNS. -CHROMIC IRON OINN'AliAR SILI'MIR < ol'IM'.R —FOSSIL , KKMAIN? fi 1 1'^i late Dr. AV. W. Oarpenter, wlio was a student of science, speaking of tliis soc- •^- tion of California said: •'The county of Sononialias never Iteen honored with a jjeological survey. It is jn-etty evenly divided lietween xalley and niountiiin. The valleys having formerlv heen suhinertfcd with the waters of the ocean, were left upon their sulisidenee with a soil of adohe, hut have since received a coat of sedimentary deposit of allu- vium. The soil of the eastern part of Sonoma Valley rests upon a hard-pan of secondary for- mation. The sandy loaua comprisinu; the coun- try lying hetween Petaluma and the coast is modern alluvium. The redwood forests adjacent to tlie coast, helong to the second epodi of the tertiary period — the miocene of ]V[r. Lyell. The soil of the Russian River A' alley largely foi-med through glacial inHnence, helongs to the sec- onilary period. The mountains are volcanic. Trap, or basalt is tlie leading rock, although ]iorphyry, sienite, granite, slate, ami especially carbonate, or magnesian limestone are found. The mountain range of basalt dividing the i'et- aluma and Sonoma valleys was poured out ot the crater of St. Helena and rolling onward, u mighty river of molten lava, couletl and hanl- ened where we now find it. The streets of San Francisco are largely paved with this i-ock. In quarrying it small caverns are levealed most beautifully lined, ami crystalized with carbonate of lime. Notwithstanding that Sonoma is classed as an agricultural county, its mineral re- sources are varied, and in the near future will be a source of great profit. •'('<)(//, of not by any means a superior (jiiality, has been found near the surface on Sonoma l\[ountain not more than five miles from IVt- aluma. Practical exjierieuce has upset many scientific theories. Science taught that the native deposit of gold was exclusively in quart/.. The miner reveals some of the richest leads in slate rock. Science formerly taught that the coal deposit was exclusively in the carboniferous formation. The same autliority now teaches that it may be found in any geological strata. It is true that all the coal thus far found be- longs to the tertiary, or secondary formation — lignite or brown coal — yet competent observers ai'e sanguine in the belief that when sutiicient depth shall have heen reached coal of good quality and in i-easonal)le abundance will be tbund. •> J^'trnleum, a sister product, is also known to exist in this county. It is a question whether oil wells will ever prove as productive in Cali- I'ornia as they are in Pennsylvania, for the reason that the horizontal wheels of the palaeozoic age confines the oil beneath the surface in the latter State, while the tertiary rocks of California, HTSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. 143 turned up ^m edge, allow it to lie forced to the surface by liydrostatic pressure, and capillary attraction, and thus wasted. Hence larj^c quan- tities of oil on the surface is an unfavorable in- dication for well-boring. •' It is for tills reason, and not because oil in quantities does not exLst, that the oil business has not a promising out-look on the Pacific coast. '' ^«ic'^'.<.;7/'c/'. - Quicksilver, j)rincipally in the form of cinnaliar, e.xists in this county in large quantities. During the (juicksilver ex- citement of four or five years ago many rich deposits were developed, and worked until the in)mense (quantities of the article found in every section of the State reduced its price below the cost of extraction, which necessarily compelled a discontinuance of operations. "The composition of ciimabar being 81| grains of (piicksilver and 19.^ grains of sul|ihur to the hundred, implies the existence of an abundance of the latter article also in the county. When (quicksilver exists where there is no sul- phur it must needs be in its native form. In the Rattlesnake mine, above Cloverdale, is the only place that it is found in this county, other- wise than in the form of cinnabar. In that mine the pure glolniles ai-e interspersed thi-ough soft tulcose rock. " Boriw. -Borate of soda has been found, liut not in paying quantities. "'Kaolin. -This article is found in this county, but kaolin being decomposed feldspar, and the pure atmosphere of California not pos- sessing the power of decomposing and disin- tegrating that article from its native rocks like the murky air of England, the (juantity is cor- respondingly small. So rapidly does the atmos- phere of England decompose feldspar, that granite, or sienite, exposed to the air. bec(;mes honey-coinbed in a few years. The reader is aware that fine porcelain ware is made of finely ))ulverized (juartz crystals, kaolin, and the ashes of ferns — the fern ashes containing enough alkali, in the form of bicarbonate of potassa to produce the requisite effervescent action, in union with the silisic acid of the (piartz. to dc- velope the beautiful finish of that elegant ware. The kaolin for the immense quantity of porce- lain ware manufactured in England is gathered in Cornwall, where it is decomposed and disin- tegrated from the granite quarries. " Hod ami YMoio Cinher (terrd ih xleitJia), as well as other ochreous coloring earths of a sn|)crior quality, and in great abundance, are found in this county. No better material for paints exist upon the earth. ^^ Petrifactlonx are found in this county and, in fact, everywhere on the coast — under circumstances which upset the accepted theory that petrifaction can (inh/ occur by saturating the wood in thcriiiHl waters. Petrifaction takes place on the surface of the earth — necessarily beyond the reach or intiuence of thermal waters. The large amount nf silex in the soil mav account for this in some instances, as there arc many cases in which an excess of that element causes wood to petrify instead of carbonize, even in the carboniferous formation. Still the proposition holds that petrifactions are found under circumstances which would seem to im- ply that atmospheric conditions mu^L have something to do with their transfornialion. " Afi/entlferoii,^ (jalena exists in the northern part of the county, and in the near future will become a paying industry. ^•Copper. — Some rich deposits of c(qiper-- jirincipally in the form of red oxide — have also been discovei-ed in the northern section of the county. " I nni — Iron is found nearly everywhere, but the UKist valuable yet unearthed are the chromic iron oi'es in the mountains near ('lo\erdale. where the rock formation is mainly st^rpentine. Some of these ores have been in the process of extraction for several years with profit to the owners. .\ small amount of hematite ii'on \\a» found near Santa Ilosa. Magnetic and Titanic iron is found in more or less abundance as is usual in all volcanic rocks. •• I'ixolltex, OolUcx, and Oh.sidiiui aw among the pi-odncts found in attestation of the volcanic period. 144 HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. " Boiling i' On the summit of a hill some threc-tjuarters of a mile to the south of I'etaluma, a very sing- ular ledge of rocks has recently been discovered by some persons engaged in (juarrying stone for building purposes. The singular structure and wonderful uniformity that prevails throughout the ledge, is the feature that renders it pecu- liarly interesting to the curious. It is well cal- culated to impress the mind with the idea of its being the work of art. "The ledge is composed of regular prismatic columns, inclined but a few degrees from the perpendicular toward the center of the hill. The columns generally have five sides, but we observed some that had but four. They are usually about twenty inches in thickness, and are divided into blocks varying from one to four feet in length, which are so closely joined and so firmly cemented together that it is (juiteditH- cult to separate them. The columns are bound to each other by a layer of grayish colored cement, about an inch in thickness. The rock is very hard, and of a dark color, and belongs to that class of rocks denominated basalt by ge- ologists. The whole ledge presents the appear- ance of a solid structure of masonry, reared, like the Jigyptian pyramids, to perpetuate the works and memory of man, in defiance of the flight of ages. So abundant, indeed, are the appearances of design, that we are not surprised that many persons have unhesitatingly pronounced it the work of art. There is abundant evidence, how- ever, tharf; precludes the possibility of such being the case. This columnar structure of rocks is not unfrequent. It is seen along the margin of Snake River, and in the passage of the Columbia River through the Cascade Mountains, perpen- dicular walls of this columnar structure are often seen rising to the height of forty or fifty feet. The basaltic columns of Lake Superior, Fingal's Cave, in the island of Staft'a, and the Giant's Causeway in the north of Ireland, are all examples of similar columnar structure. Geologists also speak of its occurring quite fre- quently west of the Ilocky Mountains. We are too incredulous to look upon this singular struc- ture as other than the work of the Divine Arclii tect, and as such it presents a wide range for human thought and study. '' The discovery of this ledge of rocks so near town, is particularly fortunate for Petaluma. The rocks arc easily quarried aiul brought to town, but the greatest advantage of all is their thorough adaptability to the construction of fire- HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. proof Iniildings neither tire nor water affecting them in the least. We saw a cliip from one of the rocks subjected to fire until it became heated to a bright red color, after which it wa.s im- mediately thrown into cold water. No chantje whatever from its original appearance could be perceived." In March of 18H8 there was considerable ex- citement ill I'etaluma conseijuent upon the un- earthing at the head of I'etaluma Creek of the fosi^il remains of some animal of large propor- tioii^i. In reference to these bones h corres])ond- ent of the Ar one-third less in size than the great masto- don, and much lower on the legs. It was not unlike the elephant, being furnished with a trunk and two huge tusks, and fed upon the rank vegetation of the early world. Thi> was, probably, a juvenile of about seven years, its age lioing determined from the number of pairs of conical jioints found on the molar teeth, while his height is estimated to have been only about eight feet, the estimation being based up- on the supposition that the large bone e.xhibited last week was a shinbone. The imperfections of that bone render its identity somewhat difh- cult, still its superior articulations and triangu- lar shaft, lead to the belief that it is a tibia. "It is hoped that other discoveries will soon be made that will throw more light upon this in- teresting problem." In the Petahiuia Anjus of Feljruary 25,1869, ajipears this mention of fossil bones: "On Thursday last Messrs. Dickey and (-Jil more discovered the skeleti.m of a mastodon on Petaluma Creek about two miles north of tlii^ city. Portions of a tusk projected from the bank where the late storm had washed the dirt away. They (jomnienced excavating and have removed the dirt from the head which i.- nf enormous size. The tusk measures twenty-two inches in circumference, and the width of the skull is nearly three feet. It is well worth the investigation of scientific men. It will be re- membered that about a year ago |)ortions of undoubtedly the same skeleton were washed out at the same locality, and that we published an account of the same. Discoveries of fossil re- mains have become so common in CaliforniH, that they liave almost ceased to excite comment, save in scientific circles."' Again referring to the unearthing of fossil remains, the A/yiis of March 4, 1869, says: "Last week we mentioned the fact of the discovery of portions of a gigantic skeleton in the bank of Petaluma Creek. From Mr. S. li. Dickey, one of the discoverers, w'e receive further particulars. We have also received let- ters from several scientific gentlemen requesting information on the subject, which we cheerfully give. These bones cannot be a part of those found last s])ring, being found fifty yards further up the stream, imbedded eight feet deep in coarse gravel. They are undoubtedly horns, the ii|)per part of the head being found with them. The ilimensioiis are: From the lower part of 146 HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. the clieek Ikhic to the tip ot' the liurii, 8 feet; eaxity nl the liraiii. iJ I'eet, making I'.t I'oet from ti|i to tip of the horns, which measuri'd ~2 ineiies at tlie base. One only was t'ounii. hut a eavitv in tlie earth corresponding in size plainly showed the former existence of another. Two feet ot the point was solid, also 8 inches of the base; the balance crumbled to pieces on exposure. There were two teeth on each jaw measuring 11 inches in lentjth, and 3^ inches in width. They are solid in the jaw, of a darkish color, but resembling ivory in sub- stance. The cheek bones are solid, 18 inches in length. The lnu-iis shot outward from the head, curving to the >ide until within about 18 inches of the point, where they turned forward, the point being a little in front of the head as if for a means of defense. An outside shell simi- lar to that upon the horn of the common cow covered the horn. If the rest of the skeleton bore a proportio'iiate size to the head and horns, the animal was indeed a monster. The fossil remains found near Tetaluma was the subject of discussion by the California Academy of Natural Sciences. What those scientists thought on the subject, as well as the opinion of the I'etaluma editor, appeared in the Petahnna Aiyns of Api-il 1, ISi;',), aud is as follows : "At a lecent meeting of the Califoi'uia Acad- emy of Natural Sciences, at ISan Francisco, the subject of the recent discovery of the remains of the gigantic animal at Petaluma was brought up. Mr. Yale said he had been corresponding with the -discoverer of the skeleton of the mastodon lately found near I'etaluma; the bones he understood were being i-enioved, and the Academy ought to take some step toward preserving the remains. The head had been entirely carried away, and other )iortiy tlie Board, and appealed by the United States. Ill this case the original j^rant was not produced, hut its existence and loss are proved beyond all reasonalde doubt by the depositions uf the witnesses and tiie pioduction of the expe- diente from the archives containing the usual documents, and also a certificate of approval by the departmental assembly. The grant is also mentioned in the index of grants by the former government. j\o doubt was entertained liy the commissioners as to the sutticiency of the proofs on these points, nor is any objection raised in the District Court in regard to them. The evidence discloses a full compliance with the conditions, and the description in the grant and map determined its locality. No objection is raised on the part of the appellants to the confirmation of this claim, and on looking over the transcript the court did not perceive any reason to doubt its entire validity, I'age 48 of the appeiuiix tells us: "Thomas S. Page, claimant for Cotate, four s wliom this second petition was addressed, referred it to the Secretary for information. By the reports of that officer it appears, that althougli tlie pe- tition for the land had been in tlie name of the three applicants, yet the grant had been made to Mcintosh solely, as he alone possessed the essential requisite of being a naturalized Me.xi- can citizen. The Secretary, therefore, suggests that, although the request of Dawson cannot be granted, yet, inasmuch as he had since been naturalized, and had married a Mexican woman, his application for another piece of land should be favorably considered. The Governor, in ac- cordance with this suggestion, on October 21, 1843, ordered the proceedings to be returned to the party interested for his information. It is presumed that it was in this way that these documents came into the parties' possession, and are not now found among the archives. It does not appear that Dawson petitioned for a grant before liis death, which occurred very soon after; but a grant is produced in which it is recited that his widow, the present claimant, has sufficiently proved the right of her deceased husband to petition for the land which she then occupied, and in consideration of the great losses sustained by her husband on separating himself from Mcintosh, and the favorable re- ports, etc., the Governor grants to her the land solicited, known by the name of • Canada de Pogolome,' to the extent of two square leagues, a little more or less. It is this land which is now claimed by the appellee. This grant was issued on February 12, 1844, and it appears to have been approved by the Departmental As- sembly on September 26, 1845. The genuine- ness of the above documents is fully proved, and it is also shown that the land was long occu- pied by Dawson before his decease, and since then by the present claimant. Although the expediente for this grant is not among the archives, yet, as observed by the commission- ers, 'its notoriety, the long possession, and the circumstances surrounding it, relieves it from any suspicion of fraud or forgery.' The boun- daries, as well as the extent of the land, are specified in the grant, and indicated with evi- dent precision on the map to which it refers. We think, therefore, that the claim is valid and ought to be confirmed."' Of this case, page 3, of the appendix, says: " Antonia Cazares, claimant for Canada de Pogolome, two square leagues, in Marin and Sonoma Counties, granted February 12, 1844, by Manuel Micheltorena to Antonia Cazares; claim filed February 3, 1852, confirmed by the commission April 11, 1853, by the District Court, March 24, 1856, and ap- peal dismissed December 8, 1856, containing 8,780.81 acres.'" The United States, AppeUaiits vs. Joaquin Carrillo, claiming the Raiicho Llano de Santa. Rosa. — Claim for three leagues of land in So- noma County (situated in Santa Rosa and Analy Townships), confirmed by the board and appealed by the United States. " It appears from the expediente in this case that the claim- ant, on June 22, 1843, petitioned Governor Micheltorena for a grant of land on the plain adjoining the rancho of his mother. The Gov- ernor, however, suspended action on the subject, as no judicial measurement had been made of the adjoining ranchos, and the extent of the sobrante or surplus reserved was not ascer- tained." " On March 12, 1844, the claimant applied to the district for permission to sow, and build a house upon the laud, during the pendency of his application to the Governor for a grant. The Alcalde granted him leave to sow the land, holding himself responsible to the owners of the land if there should be any dam- niSTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. 151 age, but he refused him permission to build the house. On March 26, 1844, the claimant re- newed his application to the Governor, stating tliat his petition still remained unacted upon on account of tlie neglect of the colindantes or ad- joining proprietors to have their lands meas- ured according to law. The secretary to whom this second petition was referred, reported favor- ably to it, and advised a grant of not more than three square leagues, subject to the measure- ments of the adjoining proprietors. In accord- ance with this report the grant now produced was made; and it appears in evidence that he built, first, a small house and afterward a very large one on the land, on which he has contin- ued ever since to reside. He has also cultivated from 100 to 300 acres of it with corn, barley, wheat, etc. The handwriting of the grant in the possession of the party is fully proved, and there seems no reason to doubt the entire validity of this claim. The map and the desig- nation in the grant of the colindantes or con- teminous owners abundantly show the locality of the tract granted; and the claimant's title to the land solicited must be confirmed to the ex- tent of three leagues, subject to the measui'e- inents of the land previously granted to the colindantes. The decision of the board must, therefore, be affirmed." In reference to this case we find, on page 35 of the appendix, " .loaquin Carrillo, claimant for Llano de Santa liosa, three square leagues in Sonoma County, granted March 29, 1844, by Manuel Michelto- rena to Marcus West; claim tiled May 31, 1852, contirmed by the commission ()ctol)er21, 1><53. by the District Court, March 24, 1850, and appeal dismissed January 13, 1857, con- taining 13,33ti.55 acres.'' Tmk U.mtki) i^T.vi-Ks,Ajj/H'//(//it.n,'\s. Jim.N B. li. ('ooPKK, rlaihiintj the Rancho El Molina. — Claim four leagues of land in Sonoma County (situated in Santa Rosa, Analy and Russian River townships), contirmed by the board and appealed by the United States. The claimant in this case, a naturalized Mexican citizen, ob- tuiiieii in December, 1833, a grant from the Governor for the place called Rio Ayoska. This grant was approved by the Departmental Assembly, and certificate of its confirmation de- livered to the grantee, as appears from the testimony, and the expediente filed in the case. " He subsequently appealed to the Governoi' for an exchange of the land granted for that now claimed by him. Rroceedings on this ap- plication were commenced by Governor Figueroa, and the new grant was made as desired by the petitioner, by Governor Gutierrez, on February 24, 1836. These facts are proved by the testimony of Harnell and Yallejo, whose evidence is corroborated by the expediente on file in the archives. The genuineness of the grant is fully established. Previously to ob- taining the last grant, the claimant had gone into possession of the tract solicited, and had bnilt a house upon it. He also had, as early as 1834, placed a considerable number of cattle upon it and had commenced the erection of a mill, upon which he expended more than ten thousand dollars. He also erected a blacksmith shop, and for two years had employed upon his rancho men to the average number of sixteen, and sometimes thirty or forty Indians. It is clear that the grantee fulfilled the conditions and carried out the objects of the colonization laws to an extent very unusual in the then con- dition of the country. AVith regard to the location of the land, it appears from the testi- mony of O'Farrell and other witnesses who are acquainted with the adjacent country, that there is no difficulty in ascertaining its locality by means of the diseou which accompanies the grant. O'Farrell, who had long been a surveyor under the Mexicans, testifies that he has, by means of the grant and the diseon, made a sur- vey of the land, and that it contains, as surveyed by him, only the quantity specified in the grant. The claim was held to be valid by the Moard. No objections to it are suggested on the part of the United States, aiul we are of opinion that the decision of the board should be affirmed." Page 27 of the appendix, in regard to this grant, remarks: -'John 1!. R. Cooper claimant for El 152 ni8T0RT OF SONOMA COUNTY. Molino or Rio Ayoska, ten and one-half square leagues in Sonoma County, granted December 81, 1833, by Jose Figueroa, February 24, 1880, by Nicholas Gutierrez, to J. IJ. R. Cooper; claim filed April 20, 1852, confirmed by the commission November 14, 1854, by the District CJourt, March 24, 1866, and appeal dismissed December 15, 1856, containing 17,892.42 acres. Patented. " Thk United "Atktyis, AppeUants vs. Jacob i'. Lkese, ehimhig the Rancho IhileMca. — Claim for live leagues of land in Sonoma County (sit- uated in Sonoma Township), confirmed by the Board and appealed by the United States. "The claimant in this case obtained on October 21, 1841, a grant from Manuel Jiineno, acting Governor of California, for two scjuai-e leagues of land as designated on the map which accom- panied his petition. Juridicia! possession was given of the tract as delineated on the map, but the extent of land measured to iiim largel}- ex- ceeded the quantity mentioned in the grant. He thereupon petitioned for an augmentation and July (5, 1844, he obtaineil from (governor Micheltorena an additi])inion, establishes the identity of the land granted to Alvarado, and removes tiie only objection urged to a confirmation of the claim. A decree ot confirmation must therefore be entered. On page 35 of the appendix it is recorded: " Mari- ano Guadalupe Vallejo claimant for Yulupa, three square leagues, in Sonoma Count}', granted November 23, 1844, by Manuel ^[icheltorena to Miguel Alvarado; claim filed May 31, 1.S52, re- jected by the commission May 10, 1854 ; con- 1JI8T0RT OF SONOMA COUNTY. 153 firmed by the District Court January 21, 1857; decree reversed liy the ITiiited States Supreme Court and cause remanded for further evidence." So far unfortunately do tliese cases go, we are, therefore, constrained to proceed to what in- formation can be gleaned out of the appendix, from whicli tlie following are taken: Archiljald A. Ritchie, claimant for Guenoea, six square leagues, in Sonoma County, granted May 8, 1845, by Pio Pico to George Kock; claim filed January 27, 1852; confirmed by the commission December IS, 1852, and appeal dismissed December 15, 1856; containing 21,- 220.03 acres. Vide page 3, Appendix Hoff- man's Reports, Vol. 1. Josefa Carrillo Fitch et al., claimants for Sotoyome, eight square leagues, in Sonoma and Mendocino counties (situated in Mendocino and Russian River townships), granted September 28, 1841, by Manuel Micheltorena to Henry D. Fitch; claim filed February 2, 1852, confirmed by the commission April 18, 1853, and appeal dismissed November 17, 1857; containing 48,- 836.51 acres. Patented. Vide page 3, Ap- pendix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Stephen Smith and Maiiuela T. Curtis, claimants for Bodega, eight square leagues in Sonoma County (situated in I'odega and Ocean townships), granted September 14, 1844, by Manuel Micheltorena to Stephen Smith; claim filed February 9, 1852, confirmed by the com- mission P'ebruary 21, 1853, by the District Court July 5, 1855, and appeal dismissed April 5, 1857; containing 35,787.53 acres. Patented. \'ide jiage 4, App. Hofi'inan's Reports, Vol. 1. Ste])hen Smith, claimant for lUucher, six square leagues in Sonoma C'ounty (situated in Analy Township), granted October 14, 1844, by Manuel Micheltorena to Juan Vioget; claim filed February 9, 1852; confirmed by the com- mission ( )ctober 31, 1854, by the District Court January 21), 1857, and a])peal dismissed Novem- ber 24, 1856; containing 22,976.66 acres. Vide page 4, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Archibald A. Ritchie and Paul S. P'orbes, flairiiant^ for (Jallayome, three square leagues in Sonoma County granted January 17, 1845, by Manuel Micheltorena to Robert F. Ridley ; claim filed February 12, 1852; confirmed by the commission December 22, 1852, and appeal dismissed December 8, 1856; containing 8,- 241.74 acres. V^ide page 6, Appendix Hoff- man's Reports, Vol. 1. Manuel Torres, claimant for Muniz, four square leagues in Mendocino County (now Sonoma, situated in Ocean and Salt Point town- ships), granted December 4, 1845, by Pio Pico to Manuel Torres; claim tiled February 17, 1852; confirmed by the commission December 27, 1853; by the District Court, October 17, 1855, and appeal dismissed May 7, 1857, con- taining 17,760.75 acres. Patented. Vide page 7, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Bartolome J)OJorquez, claimant for Laguna de San Antonio, six square leagues in Marin County (a great part in Sonoma County, Pet- aluma Township), granted November 5, 1845, by Pio Pico to B. Bojorquez; claim filed Feb- ruary 17, 1852; confirmed by the commission October 12, 1853; by the District Court Septem- ber 10, 1855, and appeal dismissed November 24, 1856, containing 24,903.42 acres. Vide page 7, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Thomas !>. Valentine, claimant for Arroyo de San Antonio, three square leagues in Marin and Sonoma counties, part in Petaluma Town- ship, and embracing the city of Petaluma. Granted October 8, 1844, by Manuel Michel- torena to Juan Miranda. Claim filed February 17, 1852, and discontinued February 6, 1855. The land was then eutei'ed by settlers as gov- ernment land, and the lots in Petaluma were entered under the "Town Site liill." \'alen- tine, by special act of Congress in 1873, got his claim reinstated before the courts, conditioiu-d that if he made good his claim to the Arroyo de San Antonio grant, he would not disturb the title of the settlers on the grant, but accept from the government " lien scrip," which could be located on government land elsewhere. Valen ■ tinereceived a confirmation of his grant, accepted his lien scriii in 1S74, ami so the matter ended. 154 UIsrORY OF SONOMA COUNT T. Jose de los Santos Berryesa, for Seno de Malaconies or Moristal y Plan de Agna Cali- ente, four leagues in Sonoma County (situated in Knight's Valley Township), granted October 14, 1843, hy Manuel Miciieltorena to J. de los Santos Berryesa; claim filed February 20, 1852; confirmed by the commission June 27, 1854; by the District Court December 24, 1850, and appeal dismissed November 24, 1856, contain- ing 12,540.22 acres. Vide page 9, Appendi.x Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Lovett P. Rockwell and Thomas P. Knight, claimants for portion of Malacoines or ISIoristal, No. 58, two square leagues in Sonoma County (situated in Knight's Valley Township), granted October 14, 1843, by flannel Micheltorena to Jose de los Santos Berryesa; claim filed Feb- ruai-y 20, 1852; confirmed by the commission August 29, 185+, and ajipeal di.rts, Vol. 1. 156 HiaTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. Martin E. Cook et al., claimants for part of Maiacoines or Moristal, two miles square in Sonoma (,'onutj (situated in Knight's Valley 'rownship); granted October, 1843, by Manuel Miclieltorena to Jose los Santos I'erryesa; claim tiled February 28, 1853; confirmed by the com- mission August 7, 1855, and appeal dismissed April It), 1857; containing 2,559.94 acres. Patented. Vide page 90, Appendix lloft'man's lieports. Vol. 1. John Henley, claimant for part of Cabeza de Santa Rosa, one mile square in Sonoma County (situated in Santa Rosa Township); granted September 30, 1841, l)y ^lanuel Jijneno to Maria "^'gnacia Lopez; claim tiled February 28, 1853; confirmed by the commission December 19. 1854; by the District Court March 2, 1857, and appeal dismissed March 27, 1857; con- taining 640.19 acres. Vide page 90, Appendix Hoffman's Report.s, \o\. 1. .Joseph Hooker, claimant tor part of Agua C^aliente, in Sonoma County (situated in Son- oma Township); granted July 13, 1840, by Juan B. Alvarado to Lazaro Pena; claim tiled March 2, 1853; confirmed by the commission April 24, 1855; by the District Court March 2, 1857, and appeal dismissed March 27, 1857; containing 550. 8B acres. Vide page 100, Hoff- man's Reports, \'ol. L. Patented. Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo, claimant for Agua Caliente, in Sonoma County (sitviated in Sonoma Township); granted July 13, 1840. by Juan B. Alvarado to Lazaro Pena; claim filed March 2, 1853; rejected by the commission December, 1855, and by the District Court July 18, 1859. Vide page 100, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Thaddeus M. Leavenworth, claimant for part of Agua Caliente, in Sonoma County (^situated in Sonoma Towhship); granted July 13, 1840, by Juan B. Alvardo to Lazaro Pena; claim tiled March 2, 1853; confirmed by the commission April 24, 1855, by the District Court March 2, 1857, and appeal dismissed April 3. 1857; con- taining 320.33 acres. Vide page 102. Appen- dix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Oliver iioulio, claimant for part of Cabeza de Santa Rosa, 640 acres in Sonoma County (situ- ated in Santa Rosa Township); granted Seji- tember 30, 1841, by Manuel Jimeno to Maria Ygnacia Lopez; claim filed Marcii 2, 1S53; rejected by the commission January 30, 1855, and appeal dismissed for failure of prosecution April 21, 1856. Vide page 102, A].pen(li\ Hoffman's Reports, Vol 1. C. P. Stone, claimant for part of Agua Cali- ente, 300 acres in Sonoma (/ounty (situated in Sonoma Township); granted July 30, 1840, by Juan B. Alvarado to Lazaro Pena; claim filed Marcli 2, 1853; confirmed by the commission April 24. 1855, by the District Court March 2, 1857, and appeal dismissed March 31, 1857. Vide page 104, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, Vol. 1. Cyrus Alexander, claimant, part of Sotoyome, two square leagues (situated in Mendocino Township); granted September 28, 1841. by Juan B. Alvarado to Henry D. Fitch; claim filed March 3, 1853; rejected by the commis- sion February 8, 1855, and appeal dismissed for failure of prosecution April 21, 185(). A'ide page 106, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, \(A. 1. James A. Watmough, claimant foi- part of Petaluma grant, one square mile in Sonoma County, granted October 22, 1843, by Manuel Miclieltorena to M. G. Vallejo; claim tiled March 3, 1853; rejected by the commis- sion January 30, 1855, and appeal dismissed for failure of prosecution April 21, 1856. Vide page 107, Appendix Hoffman's Reports, N'ol. 1. Jose Santos I'erryesa, claimant for 200 by 300 varas, in Sonoma County; granted May 30, 1846, by Joaquin Carrillo to J. S. Berryesa; claim filed March 3, 1853; rejected by the com- mission October 17, 1854, and appeal dismissed for failure of prosecution April 21, l!i56. V^ide page 108, Appendix Ifntf'mnn's itejioits. Vol. 1. BISTORT OP SONOMA COUNTY. 157 P^' fcyp cagji^Aw,A\jn ,tfir^tg^'-ir*»ffr')tg?)n?*i';7ii^6 '^a5)^(^^^:fr::'r:,ir:.\'^,-'^^< § RAlim HWAYS, mnOURSES AND BAIS, ^ ciiAPTEPt xvr. The San Fkanoisco and Northkrn Pacifk' Ha ilroad- -North Pacific Coast Railroad — Santa Rosa and Carquinez RAir.itoAn — m lu.ic highwavs — thk last stauk driver — rivers and water CoTRSES — BAVS AND COVES — CoLoNEI. PetKR DoNAHIte. fHE Sail I'^ranciseo and North Pacific liail- rt)ad has been tlie means of ilevelo|>ing tlie County of Sonoma. It has extended its soutliern terminus to Point Tiburon. The original terminus was at Donahue, eigiit miles l)elow Petaluina, and about thirty-four miles from San Francisco, at which point the steamer connected for San Francisco. The passengers from Sonoma also connected with this steamer by stage, coming for about eight miles over the divide between the waters of Sonoma and Petaluina Creeks. Donahue was named after the founder of the road, C!olonel Peter Donahue. Here was situ- ated all the workshops connected with the road, with hotel and cottages for workmen. TratHc and travel outgrew his terminus, and the road was extended on the west side of Petulama Creek to San llafael, where it con- nected by transfer to the cars of the San Fran- cisco and North Paciiic (Joast Railroad. The terminus was not found adequate for the rapidly increasing traffic of the road, and in 1883 Colo- nel Donahue pushed his broad gauge over the track of the S. F. & N. P. C. R. R., and fixed its terminus at Tiburon. And to Tiburon has been removed the buildings from Donahue. Leaving San Francisco on the magiiiticeiit donlile eiiiler stcnnier Tdntidii, |iasst'iigers in twenty minutes' time are transferred to the cars at Tiburon. A run of nine and a half miles through several considerable tunnels, brings the train to the beautiful city of San Rafael, overlooking the broad expanse of the bay. Steaming on through the suburbs of the town, up a grade, the train suddenly disappears in a tunnel bored through one of the ranges which encircle this pretty village. Emerging on the north side of the range, the scene has completely changed. Glimpses of the bay may be had as the train speeds along, now on tlie edge of the marsh, now over an intervening point, until the line between Sonoma and Marin counties is passed. The road next trends along the shore of I'etaliiin.i (!reek. Opposite and in bold relief, stands out the old terminus of I )onaliiie. (.Crossing Petaluma CJreek, after a run oi twenty-one miles from San Rafael, the train bowls into the commercial city of I'etaliiiiiu, at the head of navigation. I't'talnina is beaiitifullv and eligibly located. It is surrounded by country homes and orchards in the highest state of cultivation, and is distinguished for its pro- gressive and intelligent population. It is well drained, neatly built, and is one of the most prospe ous interior towns in California. I'Voiir I'etuhiina the train proceeds northerly. 158 HISTORY OF SONOMA COVNTT. passing Ely's, Penn's Grove, Cotate and Oak (rrove stations for fifteen miles over an ex- tremely fertile country which brings us to the center of the County of Sonoma, and to its capital town, Santa Rosa. Santa Rosa is situated on the banks of Santa Rosa Creek, and is almost hidden in groves of trees and luxuriant shrubs and flowers. It has a rapidly increasing population, and is claimed by all who have seen it as one of the prettiest towns in the State of California. It stands upon an alluvial jilain, sloping gradually from the hills, and is surrounded by farms, orchards and vineyards. Santa Rosa is the passenger station for Mark West Springs. Leaving Santa Rosa, the next station, four miles distant, is Fulton, and here a branch road runs to Guerneville in the redwoods district, distant sixteen miles from Fulton. Trains to anil from (Tuerneville connect with the main line going north and south every day. From P^ilton, going north, the train passes through the village of Mark West to Windsor, distant four miles from I'ulton, then by Grant's Station to Healdsburg, distant six miles from Windsor. Healdsburg is situated in the center of the wide-famed Russian River Valley, and is sur- rounded by a farming country of unsurpassed fertility. Beyond Healds])urg the road follows directly up the Russian River Valley to Geyserville, eight miles north of Healdsburg. Geysei'ville is a pretty village, in the midst of a fruit-grow- ing country. It is also the station where pas- sengers take stages for Skaggs' Warm Springs, one of the popular summer resorts in the State. From Geyserville to Cloverdale, the north ter- minus of the road, the distance is ten miles. Cloverdale is situated on Russian River, just south of the boundary line between Mendo- cino and Sonoma. Here stfiges connect with tlie train for Ukiah City, Round Valley, Pot- ter Valley :ni(l Humboldt County; also for the Great Geyser Springs, about .«ixteen miles from Cloverdale; also the Highland Springs, Lake- port, Kelseyville, Soda Ray, Bartlett Springs and the Blue Lakes. There is also a large freight traffic at Cloverdale, hence it is one of the busiest towns in the county. The entire length of the road by way of Donahue, with water connection, is ninety miles. By way of San Rafael it is eighty-four miles, as follow.'?: Miles. From San Francisco to Tiburon (i From Tiburon to San Rafael • • ■ • 9 From San Rafael to Petal uma 21 From Petaluma to Santa Rosa 15 From Santa Rosa to Fulton 4 From Fulton to Windsor 5 From Windsor to Healdsburg 6 From Healdsburg to Geyserville 8 From Geyserville to Cloverdale 10 84 But Cloverdale will soon lose its position as a terminal city, for the track is already graded and the mountains pierced with tunnels for an ex- tension of the road to Ukiah, the county town of Mendocino Count}'. This extension will be in running order early in 1889, and will open up to more complete development a county that has hitherto been without any facilities for convenient or ra|)iil communication with the outer world. Following is a description of the ferry-boat connecting the S. F. it N. P. R. R. with San Francisco. The Tifiuroii's dimensions are: Length between perpeiuliculars. 224 feet; beam, 34 feet; length of cabin, 155 feet. She is of the pattern known as the *• (louble ender," and is nearly a duplicate of the Bay OUy, with slightly increased speed. She is equipped with powerful machinery by the Union Iron Works, the cylinder of the engine being tifty inches in diameter, with eleven feet stroke. Two low- pressure boilers of the most approved pattern afford the driving power; speed twenty miles an hour. There is an uppei--deck (•ai)in, like that of the (Kthlini(L The keel of the Tilnnon was laid on the 2yth of May, 1883, and the hull was HrsTonr of sonoua county. launched eight mouths, lacking one clay, after- ward. The Tibui'ou is the only douhle-ender that has ever been employed on this liay, outside the Oakland and Alameda terries. NORTH I'AcIFH; C<).\ST UAILKhAIi. Of this road the San Francisco JoariMl of t'ouiiiieiTc says: " The scenic route of the 8tate is on the North Pacific Coast Railroad. Every variety and change is encountered on this line. Leav- ing the foot of Market street, San Francisco, by one of the fast ferry steamers of the com- pany, a rapid trip is made across the liay to Saucelito, where the ti'ain is awaiting passengers and freight for the north. ' All aboard !' and the train moves out of Saucelito and rolls along the shores of Richardson's Bay. Rounding the noted Mount Tamalpais into the beautiful Ross Valley, it arrives at San Anselmo station, where transfer is made to San Rafael and San Quentin and thence to Fairfax, one of the finest and most noted picnic resorts of the State. From this point on the scenery becomes wilder, grander and more varied. Climbing the steep canon sides, through tunnels, across trestle liridges hundreds of feet above the creek below, thence winding its way down, the train skirts along the hill-sides near Point Reyes to the shores of Tomales Bay. These are followed for a distance of fifteen miles, when a rich agricul- tural district is entered and the thriving com- munities of Tomales, Valley Ford, Bodega Roads, Freestone and Howards are passed in (juick succession and the ascent of the moun- tains of north-western Sonoma is begun. iVgain the grand scenery of deep canons and^ redwood forests is continued until the thriving town of Duncan's Mills is reached and then to Ingrams, the present terminus. Camp Taylor is on the line of this route, and is one of the linest iish- ing, camping and picnicing localities of the State. "The road cost over three millions of dollars, and is a magniticient piece of engineering skill. For its length we believe it possesses more varied scenery than any road in the United States. In a distance of 80 miles, hills, moun- tains, dales, valleys, deep canons, rivers, forests, follow each other in bewildering succession, and are presented to the view of the traveler as he passes through the most picturesque part of this State. It is a splendid field for the sports- man. The mountains and hills, valleys and canons abound with game, and the creeks and rivers are favorite resorts for the fisherman, who linds his time well occupied. During the sum- mer months the various places on the line of the road are resorted to l)y thousands of campers from the metropolis of the coast.'' TUK SONOMA VALLEY KAILKOAl). This road is a branch of the Northern Pacilic. It now connects with the main Donahue line at Pacheco Station. It runs northward to the old town of Sonoma, and from thence to Glen Ellen, which is located in the north end of Sonoma Valley in a vale surrounded by sloping hills, which presents as desirable a location for a pros- perous community as could be selected. It is located in the heart of the wine section of the county, and for miles on both sides of the valley are to be seen hills clad with vines. In summer it is a great reso.t for camping parties bent on pleasure and to try their skill with the rod and gun. As many as 1,500 have camped in this vicinity at one time during the camping season. SANTA UdSA AND rAKyllXK/, KAILKoAI>. This road was completed in 1887. It is a branch of the Central Pacilic road. It leaves that line at Napa Junction; passes up the whole length of the Sonoma Valley to Glen Ellen; passes on through the Guilicos Valley and terminates at Santa Rosa. This road is of incalculable value to Sonoma County, as it affords a dii'ect and continuous connection with the eastern lines, and thus opens a way to ready market for the excellent fruit of this section of the State. There is now oidy needed a couple of branch roads, one to Sebastopol and (-Jreen Valley, and the other to Big Valley to reiidei' the whole HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. county well i)rovided with conveniences for travel and the conveyance of freight to market. HimiWAV! lU'l'ore the advent of i-aiiroads the jmlilic high- ways of the county were the mediums of travel and traffic. The central and most consequential road was that leading from Petaluma, taking in its way Santa Kosa, Windsor, llealdsburg, Uey- serville and Cloverdale. Tho.se were the days of staging. Large coaches drawn by six horses made the trip daily. The stage driver was then a consequential man, courted and conciliated by those who had much traveling to do. .V scat with the driver was a seat of honor, to secure which it was generally necessary to make a special engagement. But the occu|)ation id' driver was not entirely a sinecure position, iiain or shine he had to mount his seat, and in ex- cessively wet winters he generally reached the end of his route in a terribly mud-bedraggled condition. Then lie was occasionally stopped by foot-pads, receiving a peremptory order to throw out the express box. Occasionally a driver would escape l)y giving lash to his team, but as one such got a bullet through his cheek and had a passenger killed on the seat along side of him, drivers concluded that such foolishness did not pay. and ever after they accorded to foot-j)ads that deference that their vocation seemed to entitle them to. The rail- road came, however, and ran close t(.> and paral- lel with this great artery of ti'a\el. This put an end to staging on that road, anil it is now mainly used for local purj)Oses by the in- habitants along its line. The next public highway of importance is the one leading from Petaluma up the coast. It takes in its route Two Rock, Ploomlield, Valley Ford, Bodega Corners, Bodega Bay, Markhams Mills, I'ort Ross and Gualala. That portion of this road from I'odega to Petaluma has been the medium of transportation of a vast amount of produce to market in the years gone by. but the Narrow Guage Coast Line Railroad now carries much of the Bodega produce direct to San Francisco. From near the mouth of Russian River north- ward this road is graded along the elifls over- hanging the ocean. For a distance of several miles the traveler looks down into the surt breaking ujion the rocks below, and occasionally the eye is I'elieved by seeing in the distance a jet of water thrown up by some sportive whale. When this spur of the Ross Mountain is passed the road is of comparatively easy grade to the Gualala River, the boundary line between Sonoma and Mendocino counties. One among the oldest roads in the county, but not extensively traveled, is the one leading from Petaluma to Sonoma, thence to Glen Ellen and so on through Guilicos Valley to Santa Rosa. This road is through a country of his- toric interest and at every turn the traveler encounters new and enchanting scenery. All along the line of this thoroughfare are delight- ful retreats, and it is becoming a favorite line of resort to pleasure seekers. The road from Petaluma to Sebastopol and thence to Green Valley, although an old one in point of use, did not for many years receive that care and consideration that its importance and utility entitled it to. Lately it has been much improved, and in time it will come into more general use as the shortest route to the redwood forests. The roads mentioned all have a general course north and south, or lengthwise of the count}'. Of course there are many lUteral branches to these roads leading to valleys and settlements on either hand. From Cloverdale a good road ex- tends easterly to the far-famed Geysers; and westerly to Dry Creek Valley, and thence into the coast mountains. From Geyserville a road leads to the Skaggs Springs, a celebrated place of resort. From Healdsburg roads running both east and west tap a wide range of country. Santa Rosa is the focus of a regular system of lateral roads. The most important of these is the road by way of Forestville to Guerneville, and from thence by way of Ingrams to Fort Ross. That portion of this road between Guerneville and Ross is through a country HISTORY OP SONOMA COUNTY. 161 of mountains and forests whicli will ever be a paradise to sportsmen. With two lines of rail- road, one ending at (Tuerneville and tlie otlier at Ingrams, these wilds of Sonoma County are rendered easy of access to those who seek a res- pite from the cares and toil of business life. Above mention is made that as the railroads advanced tlie stage coaches retired. With the exception of on a short line on the coast in the e.xtreme upper end of the county, and that be- tween Cloverdale and the Geyser Springs, the stages have entirely disappeared — they are a thing of the past. For many years after our raih'uads were completed, a man named Wash- ington Gilliam, who had long been a driver on our stage route, continued to run a two-horse thorough brace, taking a cross-route which gave accommodation to people between Stony Point and Tomales. At best, he made bnt a precari- ous living, but it was liis vocation, and he fol- lowed it to the end. On the occasion of his death, in 1882, his friend, Tom Gregory, of Bloomfield, penned the following graceful lines: " WASH. <;II,HAJI SI.EKl'S. "The old stage-driver came (juietly into town just as he had done off and on for some fourteen years. P>)it this time he came slower than usual. He had a new team, but the horses tramped solemnly along as if they knew that pace suited the occasion — or knew that some- tiiing was amiss with the solemn man behind them. The old driver had a strange look on his face that we had never seen before — the look of one who is moving deeply in a mystic spell. He always was rather (juiet, but now his silence was almost appalling. When the team stoi)ped, his old friends anxiously gathered around him, but lie did not seem to know them, for he spoke not a word. Gne grasped his hand, but no ]ires8ure was returned. The fu- neral that day was conducted by the Masons, and as he was a member of tluit mystic brntherhood, he took his place in the procession and with them moved toward the cometery. Soon they were all at the graveside. Pausing a moment on the brink, the old stage-driver went slowly and steadily down his last grade; the silver nail heads on the cotHn sparkled star-like in the gloom of the still, dark depths. Dust unto dust, ashes unto ashes. The bright little spray of evergreen and the dull valley clods mingled together as her dear mother earth folds around and hides away each home-returning child. They spread young wings for lofty Hights through life's warm golden dawn, but at chill eve come wearily back to slumber on her broad and loving breast. The crowd went quietly from out the enclosure and left him there alone. Now only a low narrow mound, which in a few days will be grass-grown, marks the spot where Wash. Gilham sleeps." KIVKKS AND WATKK ((iLKsES. The rivers and water-courses ot Sonoma County are peculiar in character. The Pet aluma and Sonoma creeks are estuaries of San Pablo Pay. The ebb and How of tide in these streams are about six feet in depth. This, with the natural depth of water at extreme low tide, enables vessels of from sixty to one hun- dred tons burthen to navigate them up to the cities of Petaluma and Sonoma, respectively. These tide streams are of incalculable \alue as arteries of commerce. They atford cheap trans- portation of freight to San Francisco, and ati'urd an effectual bar to freight extortions by other mediums of transportation. Both of these es- tuaries have, beyond the reach of salt water tides, fresh water fountains that abound in tis-h of various kinds. The San Antonio Creek that forms the boundary between Sonoma and Marin counties on the south takes its rise in what was called the Laguna de San Antonio (i)ut now drained) and has an entire length of not more than twelve miles. It does not atford much water in mid-summer, although in rainy seasons it becomes a torrent. The Santa Kosa and Mark West creeks are fed by innumerable tributaries taking their rise in the Macnway range of mountains, and which abound in trout. Dur- ing the summer months botli these streams are HISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTT. lost ill tliu Santa Kusa plains, luit during tlie winter or rainy months they debuiieh into the lagooiias north ot' Sehastopol, and from thence tlieir waters reach the Russian River. Sulphur Creek takes its rise in the (4eyser group of mountains and empties into the Rus- sian River north of Cloverdale. Dry Creek takes its rise in Mendocino Coun- ty and enters Sonoma County just below Dry Creek canon, and tiows into the Russian River near Healdsburg. During the suininer it is barely a trout stream, but in the winter it often becomes a roaring torrent. The Russian River is a stream of peculiarly va- riable moods. It heads high up in Mendocino County and is the artery of drainage to an im- mense section of country. In the summer months, in consequence of the gravelly and porous nature of the country it traverses it sinks away and is easily fordable at all points. But in the winter months, especially if the rain fall has been copious, it becomes an angry, incontrollable river. It enters Sonoma County just north of Cloverdale, and for many miles has a southerly course with but little fall, until it readies a point nearly opposite Healdsburg, where it sud- denly deflects to the west, plunges down through the redwood forests, and reaches the ocean a few miles north of liodega Bay. There are not a few who l)elieve that Russian River once flowed uiiinipeded to San Pablo Bay, but this is but the surmise of scientists. Austin Creek, heading in the north on the dividing line that forms the head waters of the southern branch of the Giialala River, flows south and falls into the Russian River at Dun- can's mills. It is a mild, placid stream from Ingrams down in the summer months, but in winter has its own way, and puts on the airs of a very consequential stream. The southern limb of the Gualala River takes its rise in the mountains immediately east of Fort Ross. It runs in an e.xactly oppo- site direction from the Austin Creek, and after traversing a country for many miles of the moBt wild and {'''atid scenic ifrandeur it falls into the main Gualala River about three miles above where the latter river flows into the Paciflc Ocean. The country traversed by the South Gualala, and its fountain streams, will ages hence be the resort of those who seek com- munion with the untarnished grandeur of Na- ture. Locked ill those fastnesses, beyond the sordid grasp of pelf and gain, is a wealth of respite from the toil and moil of life that will be appreciated by the generations of the future. The Estero Americano is a tide stream up to Valley Ford, and from thence upward is but the water conduit of the streams leading from Big Valley westward. These streams are in- consequential except in the winter season. The latest water-way to be noted is that drain- ing the water-shed of country compassed in Two Rock Valley. The water of these various streams And their way into an estuary of the ocean in Marin County, about midway between Tomales Bay and the Estero Americano. There is a peculiarity of the topography of the country right here worth mentioning. The ranch at present owned by Allen Rosebnrg, about eight miles north from Petaluma, is the saddle of a tridant. The water-shed of the northerly portion of the ranch sends its water down through Two Rock Valley and thence to the ocean through the channel last above de- scribed. The waters from the southerly slope of this ranch flow into the Petaluma Creek; and the water from the western side of the place flows westerly and through the medium of Salmon Creek falls into Tomales Bay. BAYS AND COVES. Along the ocean line of Sonoma County are several bays and coves affording good anchor- age for vessels. Bodega l!ay is a land-locked harbor affording good anchorage for vessels. It is about two miles long and one mile wide. Its entrance is somewhat narrow and dithcult of access in stormy weather, but vessels once inside are safe and secure. About ten miles north- ward, at Russian Gulch, there is a cove where vessels land and take on lumber by means of a HI8T0RT OF SONOMA COUNTY. chute. At Fort Ross there is a very good landing, and vessels come and go with great regularity, carrying to San Francisco railroad ties, cord wood and tan bark. At Timber Cove is also a landing for vessels. Salt Point has a very good landing for vessels, so also has Fisk's and Stuart's Points. At all these places are chutes for sliding lumber and freights of various kinds down into the vessels moored Ijelow. The traveler along the coast is constantly astonished to beliold the masts of vessels close in shore where lie would least expect to see them. These bays and coves on the northwest coast of Sono- ma County are the mediums of a lumber trade both vast and protitiible. coLONKr. TETEIl UnXAHUK. As Sonoma County was largely indebted to the late Col. Peter Donahue for her railroad facilities we account it but just to afford his name some space in Sonoma County history. Of his death, the Petaluma Argus of November 28, 1885, said: "Col. Peter Donahue died at his ri'sidence in San Francisco at 10 o'clock Thursday evening. He had been ill several days, but a fatal ter- mination was not anticipated until within a few hours of his death. He seemed to have had a complication of ailments, but diabetes is given as the immediate cause of death. Thus has come to an end a remarkably active aii<] useful life. Peter Donahue was eminently the archi- tect of his own fortune. The foundation of his fortune was laid with his own brawny arms while toiling at the forge. AVith far-seeing sagacity he made investments and inaugurated enterprises that not only brought himself rich returns, but gave lucrative employment and prosperity to thousand of others. With all his vast accumulations of wealth, Peter Donahue never forgot or looked down superciliously upon those occupying the walks of life he himself once trod. We have neither time nor space for more extended mention of the deceased at this time, and conclude by saying that in the death of Peter Donahue, San Francisco and California has lost a most enterprising and valuable citi- zen." Continuing the Argus said: '• We last week announced the death of Colonel Peter Donahue. To the San Francisco BuUetiu we are indebted for the following biographical sketch: " The deceased was born of Irish parents in Glasgow, Scotland, on the 11th of January, 1822. In 1835 he emigrated with his mother to America, settling at Matteawan, which is now a portion of Fishkill Township, Dutchess County, New York. He worked some two years in a cotton factory and then entered a locomotive manufactory in Patterson, New Jersey. In 1847 he was appointed engineer of the Peruvian war steamer Itimal. Mr. Donahue arrived in San Francisco on the steamer Oregon, June 18, 1849, and proceeded to the mines. Snlisequently he returned to this city, where he met his brothers James and Michael. lie and James established a blacksmith shop on Mont- gomery street, and about a year afterward they removed to First street. In 1852 tlie firm obtained the franchise for lighting the city with gas, and within two years gas works were estab- lished. •' Peter Donahue also established a line of steamers on the Sacramento River. In 18(')1 he obtained a street railroad franchise and estab- lished what is known as the Omnibus line. The same year he obtained a contract for raising and rebuilding the sunken monitor Comanche for the defense of this harbor. The first casting melted and molded in this State was done at the Union Foundry, by Messrs. Donahue, for the old pio- neer steamer McK'un, the blasts for the furnace being prepared by three blacksmiths' bellows, which are now the jT'operty of the Mechanics' Institute. The first quartz mill constructed in this State was made at the Donahue foundry. A building is now in the course of construction where the old Donahue shop and wharf existed on First street in 1850. In 1862 Mr. Donahue and a few associates built the railroad from this city to San Jose, and subsequently continued it to Gilroy, a distance of about eighty miles. This HISTOar OP SONOMA COUNTY. road was subsequeutlj sold to Stauford & Co. A broad gauge road was also built by Mr. Donahue from the town of Donahue, on Peta- luma Creek to Cloverdale, a distance of fifty miles. All of the rolling stock for this road was constructed at the Donahue foundry. A branch road was built from Fulton to Russian River, a distance of eighteen miles, and from Petaluma to San Rafael twenty-two miles in length. This latter branch has been extended from San Rafael to Point Tibnrou on Raccoon Straits, which is connected with this city by a ferry line. In 1879 Donahue and his associates purchaseil the unlinisiied narrow gauge from Sonoma to Sonoma Creek, which they completed. For a quarter of a century Mr. Donahue was director of the Ilibernia Bank, and for over twenty years a director of the iS'^ational Gold Bank. He was a life member of the Pioneer Society. "The deceased married Miss JaneMcGnire in New York in 1852, by whom he had four chil- dren, two of whom are living. A few years ago the daughter married Baron von Scliroeder, and until recently lias resided in the southern part of the State. The son, Mervyn, a few years ago married the daughter of ex-Supreme Judge Wallace, and resides at San Rafael. On the death of the first wife, Mr. Donahue married Miss Anna Downey, sister of ex-Governor Downey. " The deceased was a courteous and companion- able gentleman who well represented the dignity of labor as an intelligent and industrious mechanic." HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. 165 ^V^ ■>-j»t^ '«^. mijk '^^::t^ m EVENTS IN CHEONOLOGK AL OEDEE. ^i^ ClIAPTEPv XVII. A RECORD OF TKARS rNCFDENTS ACCfDKNTS — ociT RRENclOS — niscoVERIKS DEVELOPMENTS, ETC. N anotlier chapter has been given an epitome of all the occnrrences of a year, as recorded ^ in the only journal then published in the county. We now take up the thread of current events where these dropped, and follow it to the end. September I'.l, 1856 — The first Republican uiass convention assembled in the dining-room of the old Petaluma House. September 26, 1856 — The settlers held a mass convention at Santa Kosa. (October 3, 1856 -The subject of opening a road north to AV^eavervillc was being agitated. December 9, 1856— Dr. H. B. Bonham, county superintendent of public instruction, re- ported the condition of the schools in the county. January 23, 1857 — W. A. I)\ister, county treasurer, proved a defaulter for several thou- sand dollars — was tried; sentenced to the peni- tentiary for five years, and pai-doned by the Governor at the end of three years. April 10, 1857— The Round Valley Indian i-eser\atioti, Mendocino County, established an agent. John Hendley reported several thou- sand Indians there, and doing well. June 5, 1857 — J. A. Rudesill commenced running a stage from Petaluma to the Geyser Springs. June 12, 1857— At Bodega, an Indian killed one of his tribe — confessed the crime, and was hung by order of "Judge Lynch." September 4, 1857 — A large camp-meeting was held at Liberty school-house. September 16, 1857 — Three Indians were hung near Fort Ross by a vigilance committee. A peace ofiicer was present and forbade the hanging, but it was of no avail. October 23, 1857 — There was (|uite an ex- citement over the supposed discovery of coal in Two Rock Valley. November 27, 1857— An elk weighing 800 pounds was killed near Healdsburg. This was the last elk that there is any record of, and probably the last one ever in the county. February 12, 1858 — There was some excite- ment over the supposed disco\ery of cinnabar, near Petaluma. April 23, 1858— The beginning of trouble about squatters on the Sotoyome grant, near Healdsburg. October 4, 1858 — The celebrated comet that had for weeks been blazing in the heavens, be- gan to wane. April 8, 1859 — A. B. Bowers was workino- on a map of Sonoma County. When completed it was a most excellent farm maji, vei'v accurate in every detail. 160 HISTORY (IF SONOMA COUNTY. September 9, 1859 — The animal fair was lield at Healdsburg, and the interest manifested in Sonoma County industries was highly satisfac- tory. February 10, 1860 —Discovery of quicksilver near Mount St. Helena and the Geysers. June 15, 1860 — A monster grizzly bear was killed on Salmon Creek, Marin County, by J. S. Brackett, the Estee brothers, and others. It was brought to Petaluma and exhibited. It weighed 1,000 pounds, and had been very de- structive to stock. July 6, 1860 — The boundary line between Sonoma and Marin counties was finally placed as located by Surveyor William Mock in 1856; that is, following a straight line from the head of the Laguna de San Antonio, to the head of the Estero Americano at Yalley Ford. August 10, 1860 — A quarry of asbestos was found near Windsor. April 12, 1861 — The Legislature passed a bill submitting the question of county seat removal to a vote of the people. May 24, 1861 — Joe Hooker, of Sonoma, left for the theater of the civil war. He became the celebrated " Fighting General Joe Hooker " of that unfortunate conflict. Ifoveniber 26, 1861 — Lady Franklin, relict of the ill-fated Sir John Franklin of Arctic Ocean fame, visited Sonoma County, accompanied by her niece. Miss Craycroft. January 21, 1862 — From Petaluma and other portions of the county liberal aid was sent to the sufterers by flood at Sacramento. February 11, 1862— Charles Minturn, of the Steamer line, straightens a couple of bends in the creek, below Petaluma. June 25, 1862 — There was considerable pros- pecting for coal in the easterly side of Santa Rosa Yalley, opposite the old Half-way House. November 9, 1862 — Judge McKinstry re- signed the position of judge of the seventli judicial district, and Hon. J. B. Southard was appointed to the position. December 3, 1862 — Suit was commenced for the partition of the Rancho Laguna de San Antonio, comprising over 24,000 acres. This ranch was familiarly known as the " Bojorques Rancho,'" and the history of this litigation is scattered through over- twenty volumes of the California Supreiue Court Reports. August 5, 1863 — There was great excitement about the discoveiy of copper in the mountains about eighteen miles westerly from Healds- bui'g. Copper, in small quantities, in a pure state, was found, and much prospecting was done, but with no paying results. November 2, 1865 — A railroad company was organized in Petaluma for the purpose of build- ing a railroad from Petaluma to Cloverdale. There were various moves and counter-moves about railroads. The question of location, and the granting of a subsidy of 85,000 a mile came to a vote on the 10th of September, 1868. The subsidy was voted, and the route from Petaluma to Cloverdale selected. Work was prosecuted for a time in 1869. then was stopped. Colonel Peter Donahue bought the road and franchise on August 10, 1870, and on October 29, 1870, the first cars ran between Petaluma and Santa Rosa. In 1872 the road was completed to Cloverdale. November 9, 1865 — There was a heavy rain- storm northward along the coast. At the Gua- lala River the saw-log boom of the Rutherford Milling Company broke, and about 4,000,000 feet of lumber went out to sea. Three schooners were wrecked upon the coast. March 29, 1866 — Michael Ryan was executed at Santa Rosa, for the crime of killing his wife. This is the only case of capital punishment yet on record in Sonoma County. November 15, 1866 — A destructive lire oc- curred at Sonoma, and a number of buildings were destroyed. November 7, 1867 — Mineral paint of good quality was found near the mill of O. A. Olm- stead, in the redwoods. November 28, 1868 — A stage robbery occurred near Cloverdale. December 10, 1868— The schooner C. P. Heustis, Captain H. Piltz, went ashore near Fort Ross, and was a total wreck. No lives lost. BISTORT OF SONOMA COUNTY. 167 January 21, 1869. — A petrified tree was found while grading for tlie railroad, on the Cotate Branch. March 18, 18(39 — According to the school census Sonoma County had more school chil- dren than any other comity in the State, except San Francisco. August 19, 1871 — A daring attempt was made to rob the Cloverdale stage. The driver, Sandy Woodworth, would not stop, and as a consequence got a bullet tlirough his cheek, and a young man, named Cofhn, on the seat beside him was killed. F^ebruary 24, 1872 — A large whale was stranded on the shore near Timber Cove, and the coast residents laid in a supply of whale oil. March 16, 1872— The Donahue line of rail- road was completed and in running order to Cloverdale. May 25, 1872 — This was an era of road im- provement around Petaluma and in the county at large. Many miles of excellent macadam- ized roads were constructed. September 6, 1872 — A. Doty & Co. estab- lished a broom factory near Penn's Grove. August 1, 1873 — Elijah McMurray, a former resident of Two Rock Yalley, had a fearful en- coTinter with a wounded buck, and finally proved victor, although badly wounded and lacerated. November 21, 1873 — A telegraphic line was completed from Petaluma to Humboldt Bay, and there was Fraternal greeting between the presses of Sonoma and Humboldt counties. May 1, 1874 -The schooner Horace Tem,- plcton was wrecked in Petaluma Creek on what is known as the " sunken rock.'' May 29, 1874— The basalt blocks of Sonoma County began to be used extensively for paving in San Francisco. June 26, 1874— The Forestville Chair Factory becomes an important manufacturing industry. Sept&mber 18, 1874 — A destructive fire occurred at Bodega Corners. November 27, 1874 — This was a season of floods to Sonoma County, on account of excessive rains. April 16, 1875 — The steamer James M. Donahue was completed and commenced run- ning between San Francisco and Lakeville. April 30, 1875— Granville P. Swift, one of the " Bear Flag party," and once a wealthy citi- zen of Sonoma County, who had money buried by the thousands of dollars, was found with his neck broken, in Solano County — his mule having stumbled and fallen over a precipice. June 4, 1875 — A new townshi p was created by the county board of supervisors called " Knight's Yallej'." June 18, 1875 — A test case was agreed upon to settle the disputed boundary question be- tween Sonoma and Napa Counties. The decision was in favor of Sonoma County. October 27, 1876— The Petaluma and San Rafael Narrow Guage Railroad was sold and transferred to Colonel Peter Donahue. January 18, 1878 — This was a season of un- usual floods to Sonoma Covmt^', and considera- ble damage was done. April 19, 1878 — The up-coast stage was robbed at a point near the Gualala River. December 27, 1878 — Congress was petioned for $25,000 to aid in improving Petaluma Creek. The subsidy was granted and tlie creek much improved. January 30, 1880 — The valleys of Sonoma County were covered with snow, a very unusual occurrence. August 20, 1881 — A destructive fire occurred at Sebastopol. February 3, 1882 — Foot-pads robbed the Cloverdale stage. September 1, 1882— J. R. Jewell of Peta- luma Township Iniilt the first silo in the county. March 17, 1883— The Pacific Narrow Guage Railroad was extended to Ingrams. October 6, 1883— The Northern Pacific Rail- road was completed to deep water at Tiburon. The new steamer Gold, to run between San Francisco and Petaluma, was completed. December 8, 1883 — The first stone of the new court-house at Santa Rosa was laid. September 25, 1886 — The first canning HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY. establislniient at Santa Rusa was destroyud by iire. June 18, 1887 — Tlie work of building a branch railroad from Pacheco Station to con- nect with the Sonoma Valley Railroad was com- menced. July 30, 1888~The northern end of the count}', from Santa Rosa upward, has a large showing of new vineyards and orchards. Below we give a full list of the present towns and villages of Sonoma County, in alphabetical order, outside of Petaluma, Santa Rosa, Sonoma and llealdsburg, that are i-egularly incorporated cities: America is ten miles north of Santa Rosa; including the immediate vicinity; it has a popu- lation of 250. It is more wideh' known as Mark West Springs. It has a hotel and post- ottice and is a resort for tourists and invalids. A stage line affords communication with Santa Rosa. Bloomfield is a thriving comumtiity at the head of Big Valley, twelve miles north of Peta- luma. The population is about 350. The village has a full complement of stores, churches and societies; a good hotel is maintained. It has communication by stage with Petaluma. It is growing and offers inducements to settlers. Bodega is eighteen miles north of Petaluma, and located on Bodega Bay in the midst of a line dairy country from which, with the fishing business, it derives its support. It boasts of a hotel, postoffice and express office. Clahr'dJe is located- twenty three miles north- west from Santa Rosa on the line of the S. F. cV- N. P. It. li. If is in the midst of a farming an< is located fhirty miles north from Petaluma. It has communication with San Francisco by the North Pacific Coast "Rail- road. It is supported by important lumber, dairy and stock raising interests. The Duncan's Mill's LantI and Lumber t'omjiany saw mills are located here. The population is about 250. The surrounding coiintr}- is noted for its romantic and pictures(jue scenery, and abun- dance of game and fish. It is a favorite resor- for the tourist, the sportsman and for camping parties during the summer months. Stages leave here for all points in ^Lendocino anil Hum- boldt (tonnties. J''is/i