CHINA. 
 
 IMPERIAL MARITIME CUSTOMS. 
 
 T 
 
 777 
 
 II.— MISCELLANEOUS SERIES: No. 14. 
 
 QlC<b 
 
 CATALOGUE 
 
 OP THE 
 
 CHINESE COLLECTION OF EXHIBITS 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF 
 
 SHANGHAI: 
 STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 INSPECTORATE GENERAL. 
 MDCCCLXXXIV. 
 
Class 
 
 BookiL£ 
 
 £l£l 
 
CHINA. 'V - '*f 
 
 IMPERIAL MARITIME CUSTOMS. 
 
 i - Sr 
 
 III.— MISCELLANEOUS SERIES: No. 14. + * y- 
 
 CATALOGUE 
 
 CHINESE COLLECTION OF EXHIBITS 
 
 FOR THE 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 PUBLISHED BY ORDER OF 
 
 %\Xt %M$ttUX <ft*tt*lftt of ®MUm$. 
 
 , SHANGHAI: 
 STATISTICAL DEPARTMENT 
 
 OF THE 
 
 INSPECTORATE GENERAL. 
 MDCCCLXXXIV. 
 

 
 Di of D» 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Page. 
 Chinese Commission ... ... ... ... ... ... iv 
 
 Note v 
 
 Table of Weights, Measures, etc. ... ... ... ... vi 
 
 Introduction : The Cultivation and Manufacture of Cotton in 
 
 China ... ... ... ... ... ... ... vii 
 
 Catalogue : Part I. — The Shanghai Collection ... ... i 
 
 Part II. — The Canton Collection 85 
 
 Appendix : Memorandum on the Importation of Cotton Yarn 
 
 into the Province of Kwangtung ... ... ... 115 
 
 Sketch Map of China Proper. 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 CHINESE COMMISSION. 
 
 President : SIR ROBERT HART, K.C.M.G., Peking. 
 
 Commissioners for preparing ( E. B. Drew, Esq., Shanghai. 
 Collection in China. . I F. E. Woodruff, Esq., Canton. 
 
 Commissioners at New Or- ( W. F. Spinney, Esq. 
 leans (J. Neumann, Esq. 
 
 (J. L. Knoepfler. 
 
 Attendants J Teh Ah-kew. 
 
 ( Wang Ch'un-li. 
 
NOTE. 
 
 Having been invited to take part in the World's Industrial 
 and Cotton Centennial Exposition to be held in 1884-5 at New- 
 Orleans, the Chinese Government entrusted the matter to the 
 Inspector General of Customs. It was found advisable in the 
 present instance, owing in a measure to the shortness of time 
 available and to impending international difficulties, to confine 
 participation to the preparation of an Exhibit illustrative 
 chiefly of the Cotton Industry, instead of including the entire 
 range of the Industrial Arts in China, as was done on the 
 occasion of the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia in 1876. 
 The work was then placed in the hands of Mr. E. B. Drew, 
 Customs Statistical Secretary, of making the collection from 
 North and Central China, with Shanghai as the centre, and 
 Mr. F. E. Woodruff, Commissioner of Customs, of forming the 
 collection for South China, with Canton as the centre. Assistance 
 was rendered also by the Commissioners of Customs at the 
 ports of Hankow, Kiukiang, Ningpo, and Swatow. The pages 
 which follow will be found to afford an Introduction descrip- 
 tive of the Cotton Industry in China, succeeded by a Catalogue 
 Proper — Part I and Part II — of the objects exhibited. 
 
 The articles contributed from Shanghai and other places 
 in North or Central China are enumerated and described in 
 Part I, and the labels on the articles themselves give the 
 number, preceded by the letter S. (Shanghai). Similarly, the 
 objects from Canton and South China are catalogued in Part II, 
 and the labels on them give their number, preceded by the 
 letter C. (Canton). 
 
 Inspectorate General of Customs, 
 Statistical Department, 
 
 Shanghai, September 1884. 
 
TABLE OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 
 
 i catty = i J pounds avoirdupois. 
 
 i picul = ioo catties = 133^ pounds avoirdupois. 
 
 = $t.-$6 American gold. 
 1 Hh. tael 1 
 
 
 5s. d\cl. English money. 
 1,615 cask = 1 Haikwan tael. 
 1,188 „ =1 American gold dollar. 
 
 1 mau- = almost exactly -^th of an acre.* 
 
 1 ts'un =1.41 inches. 
 
 1 ch'ih = 1 o ts'un =14.1 inches. 
 
 t chang — 10 ckSh ^100 ts'un = 141 inches. 
 
 * Not 1th of an acre, as is stated erroneously on pp. ix and xi, below. 
 
THE 
 CULTIVATION AND MANUFACTURE 
 
 OP 
 
 COTTON IN CHINA 
 
 An inquiry into the circumstances of the introduction of 
 cotton into China leads to the conclusion that it was very 
 gradual and proceeded by two distinct routes, viz., from India 
 and the South into Kwangtung and Fukien by trading vessels ; 
 and from the West through the border provinces, principally 
 Shensi and Shansi. But long before cotton was a product of 
 China, cotton thread and cotton fabrics were brought hither, 
 either as tribute from the people of tributary regions or as an 
 article of commerce. Some passages in the " Shu Ching " make 
 mention of weaving-cotton being brought into China as tribute 
 2,200 years before Christ. Yet it must have been brought, or 
 at any rate regarded by the Chinese, rather as a curiosity than 
 a commodity in the production of which they might themselves 
 engage ; for 2,000 years later it appears not to have been planted 
 in the Empire, unless we may believe that its introduction into 
 the border provinces, so remote from the centres of government 
 and civilisation, was not known or was not deemed of sufficient 
 importance to justify the classifying of the cotton industry 
 amongst the industries of the country for purposes of taxation. 
 It seems to have got its first strong foothold in Kwangtung and 
 to have spread thence into Fukien. The history of its introduc- 
 tion into the Kiangsu province is more definite. In A.D. 1364 
 an officer was appointed to encourage the cultivation of cotton 
 in the provinces of Chekiang, Kiangnan, Kiangsi, Hupeh, Hunan, 
 and Fukien. It was about this time that the cotton plant was 
 first grown in the district of Wu-ni-ching, near Shanghai. The 
 
viii NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 people of the district were deeply indebted to a certain old lady- 
 named Huang, who, if she did not actually initiate the practice 
 of cotton planting there, at least taught them how to make their 
 crop most profitable, by instructing them in the use of the 
 flocking bow and the loom, and showing them how to weave 
 fancy cloths and work coloured threads into patterns. These arts 
 she had brought with her from the cotton-producing regions of 
 Kwangtung. So highly were her services appreciated that after 
 her death a temple was erected to her memory and the people 
 worshipped before her image. Although we know so little of the 
 history of the introduction of cotton, it is certain that it is now 
 grown over a wider field than any other crop in China ; north 
 and south, east and west, there seems to be no one of the 
 eighteen provinces where it is not produced to some extent. 
 The most important cotton-producing regions, however, are in 
 Kwangtung, Chekiang, and Kiangsu provinces. Of these, 
 Kiangsu is most celebrated both for the quantity and quality 
 of the product, It forms the principal crop of the country 
 in the neighbourhood of Shanghai, where the soil is a sandy 
 alluvial and the land for miles around is perfectly flat. 
 
 Sowing takes place about the end of April, the ground 
 having previously been broken up and manured. The tilling is 
 done either with the three-pronged hoe or with a buffalo and 
 plough. The plough is of the rudest and simplest construction, 
 being little more than a crooked branch with a thin iron plate 
 attached, which turns up the soil only 5 or 6 inches deep. These 
 methods are rude and toilsome, and would not answer in any 
 country where land is held in large tracts and where human 
 labour is less plentiful. But here the soil is cultivated in small 
 patches b} 7 petty farmers, who devote their oAvn labour and that 
 of all the available members of their families to the little spot 
 which they can call then own, and which is seldom large enough 
 to require hired labour to work it. By patient toil and incessant 
 care they manage, even with their rude implements, to raise 
 enough from an acre or tAvo to supply the necessaries of life ; 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. ix 
 
 luxuries and even comforts are almost unknown to them. The 
 constant drain on the land makes liberal manuring a necessity. 
 The manures used for cotton are beancake (the residue of beans 
 from which the oil has been pressed), night-soil, ashes, and a 
 kind of compost, dredged from the bottoms of creeks and ponds, 
 composed of the decayed roots of reeds and grass mixed with 
 the soil washed down by the streams. It is common to plant 
 a crop of rye or beans after the ripening of the cotton, and the 
 stubble from this winter crop is turned into the ground and 
 helps to fertilise it. The sowing of the cotton seed is generally 
 done broadcast, but sometimes it is planted in regular rows. 
 Four men, or rather four persons (for men, women, and children all 
 work in the fields), can sow a mou — about one-fifth of an acre — 
 a day, treading the seed well in with their feet. After the plants 
 have sprung up they are carefully hoed and weeded, and if the seed 
 has been sown broadcast, they are thinned out until they stand at 
 intervals of about 1 5 inches. When the plants have reached the 
 height of 1 8 inches the main stalk is often nipped off to strengthen 
 the branches. Troublesome insects are destroyed and the plants 
 carefully tended until they begin to flower, which takes place in 
 August. There seems to be no insect peculiar to the cotton 
 plant, but the same worm which destroys the beans also attacks 
 the leaves of the cotton, and commits great ravages if not 
 destroyed in time. The plantations are so small, however, that 
 these pests are more easily destroyed than they could be were 
 the farms on a larger scale. The flowers quickly drop off 
 and the formation of the pod begins ; but the plant goes on 
 producing flowers and pods until the latter part of October. The 
 pods are pendent, and the cotton is thus better protected from 
 the rain than it is where they grow upright. They are gathered 
 as fast as they burst (beginning about the end of August), all 
 hands turning out for this work. A moderately wet summer 
 and a dry autumn are the most favourable conditions for the 
 production of a good crop. After the pods have opened, rains 
 and high winds are much dreaded, as they cause the pods to 
 
X NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 fall off and become ruined by the wet and mud. The cotton, 
 as it is gathered, is spread daily in the sun on a platform of reeds 
 raised a few feet from the ground, until thoroughly dried, when 
 the process of separating the seeds begins. For this purpose a 
 very cheap and simple, but effective, contrivance is employed. 
 This consists of two horizontal rollers — one of wood, about i£ 
 inch in diameter, below and almost touching one of iron, | inch in 
 diameter, and each about 1 8 inches long. The iron roller is made 
 to revolve by a crank which a woman turns with one hand while 
 she works the wooden roller with a treadle, and with the other 
 hand feeds the cotton between the revolving rollers. The cleaned 
 cotton passes through and the seeds drop out on the near side. 
 
 The farmers distinguish two kinds of white cotton and one 
 of what we should term yellow, but which is called brown or 
 purple by them, in contradistinction to the inferior qualities 
 of white, viz., that damaged by rain or other causes and known 
 on the market as yellow. The two kinds of white cotton are 
 known as the White Seed and the Black Seed : the fibre of the 
 latter is hard and tough, and although the per-centage ginned from 
 the black seed is somewhat greater than from the white seed, 
 this advantage does not compensate for its unsuitableness to 
 the primitive appliances used in China for its manufacture ; nor, 
 furthermore, does the black seed yield so much oil as the white. 
 The yellow species (i.e., the "brown" or "purple," as the Cliinese 
 call it) is for the most part exported to the South, and is 
 woven into yellow " Nankeens," where this material finds general 
 favour. The yellow cotton is usually far inferior to the white 
 varieties, so that its use is restricted to cloths which are to be 
 dyed. The seeds of the yellow cotton are large, and the pro- 
 portion of clean fibre yielded is only about 4 parts in 20, while 
 other varieties yield 8 in 20. The pods of the Chinese cotton are 
 smaller and the staple shorter than in American cotton. 
 
 The seeds, save such as are kept for next year's planting, are 
 sold to the oil maker, who expresses the oil between two mill- 
 stones, the upper one of which is turned by a bulloek or a buffalo. 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. XI 
 
 This oil is used for lighting purposes and for the manufacture 
 of Chinese — often called India — ink, which is made from its 
 thick black smoke. The residue of the cotton seeds, after the 
 oil has been extracted, is used as fodder for cattle, and makes a 
 good manure. The stalks of the cotton plant keep the farmer's 
 family supplied with fuel for some time, and the ashes from them 
 are also used for manuring the land. 
 
 The cotton thus cleaned of its seeds is ready for market. 
 If the farmer has been moderately successful, he has gathered 
 about i£ piculs — or 200 lbs. — of seed cotton from each mou, 
 or fifth of an acre, of land, yielding about 50 catties, or 67 lbs., 
 of clean cotton. This cotton, if sold, will fetch on an average 
 about Hk.TU. 9.88 (say American gold $13.43) per picul. A fair- 
 sized plantation contains about 8 mou, so that Hk.TU. 39.50 may 
 be taken to represent the annual return to the average petty 
 farmer for the labour of himself and his household, and for 
 his outlay for manure, etc. What he may add to this as the 
 income from spinning and weaving does not properly belong to 
 the profit of farming. He is often obliged to obtain an advance 
 on his crop for living expenses, and for this he must pay 2 or 3 
 per cent, a month, which is not regarded as extravagant interest 
 in China. His net return has to support perhaps a dozen 
 persons, for there will be children and grandchildren, one or 
 more of the married sons remaining on the farm. As we shall see, 
 however, the farmer in most cases adds to the profits of farming 
 the product of the labour of his household in spinning and 
 weaving, and the joint return enables him to live very com- 
 fortably. The cleaned cotton, such as is not prepared and 
 woven at home, is carried to market in baskets and bags and 
 sold to the " flockers," or to dealers in raw cotton. 
 
 The dealers pack it tightly into hemp bags for transportation 
 inland, or exportation. No compressing machinery is used in 
 packing. The weight of the bags or bales varies, but is on 
 the average about 120 catties. Although the production of 
 cotton is common to all the provinces, it is only in two or three 
 
xii NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 that the amount produced is more than sufficient for local 
 consumption. Thus, the Customs Returns show Raw Cotton as 
 an export at Tientsin, Wuhu, Shanghai, and Ningpo only, while 
 it figures as an import at all the other ports, with one or two 
 exceptions. The amounts exported in 1883 through the Maritime 
 Customs were : — 
 
 From Tientsin . . piculs 7,694. (Pechili province.) 
 
 (Anhwei „ ) 
 (Kiangsu „ ) 
 (Chekiang „ ) 
 
 „ Wuhu . . „ 5,748. 
 
 „ Shanghai . . „ 300,423. 
 
 „ Ningpo . . „ 935. 
 
 These figures do not include exports in native junks, which 
 are very considerable from Ningpo and perhaps from Shanghai. 
 It is apparent, then, that Kiangsu and Chekiang are the only 
 provinces where the cotton raised is so greatly in excess of local 
 requirements as to form an important article of export. Of the 
 export by foreign-type vessels (i.e., all excepting native junks) 
 from Shanghai in 1883, 23,844 piculs went to foreign countries, 
 including 2,185 piculs to Hongkong; the remaining 276,579 
 piculs were carried to the other Chinese ports, notably Hankow, 
 Kiukiang, Amoy, and Swatow, to supply local deficiencies. We 
 must look upon cotton cultivation in China therefore as almost 
 entirely an internal industry, and not, like the raising of tea 
 and silk, as furnishing any considerable contribution to foreign 
 commerce. 
 
 In speaking of manufactured cotton it is necessary to notice 
 again the simplicity of methods, the absence of large establish- 
 ments and labour-saving machinery. The great centres of 
 industry in China get their title, not from the existence of vast 
 factories, but from the congregation of a large number of small 
 "establishments, each employing a few workmen, or from the 
 employment of the people, at their own houses, in a particular 
 industry. The greater part of the cotton never leaves the farm 
 where it is raised except in the shape of cloth, all the processes 
 " of cleaning, flocking, spinning, and weaving being gone through 
 on the premises. What is not thus manufactured at home or 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. Xlll 
 
 exported is sold to the "flockers," who separate its fibres and 
 prepare it for spinning by the use of the tan-hua kung-tzu, or 
 flocking bow. The string of the bow is sunk into a mass of 
 cotton, some of which adheres to it. The string is beaten with 
 a stick, and the vibrations cause the cotton to fly off in a 
 light and fluffy state, its fibres well separated. These flocking 
 establishments are very numerous in Shanghai, and for the 
 most part employ only one or two men. A great deal of the 
 cotton thus treated is used without further preparation in the 
 manufacture of wadded clothing and bed-quilts, very important 
 industries. Woollen cloth is made only to a very small extent 
 in China, and its place is supplied by wadded clothing, consisting 
 of an inner and outer facing of cotton cloth with a thick filling 
 of cotton wool. This raiment supplies the necessary warmth, 
 but from its thickness is extremely cumbersome. In cold 
 weather the men and women present an exceptionally stout and 
 burly appearance, and the little children are actually "as broad 
 as they are long." The wadded quilts, of course, supply the 
 place of woollen blankets, and are also used as mattresses, the 
 sleeper lying between two of them. 
 
 The flocked cotton is also peddled out in small quantities 
 to Avomen in the towns and cities, who spin it at home, some- 
 times weaving it themselves and sometimes selling the thread to 
 weavers. A catty of spinning cotton is bought for about 240 cash, 
 and a catty of thread is sold for 360 cash. The whole of the 
 cotton cloth with which the market is supplied and the millions 
 clothed is thus made up of the numerous small contributions of 
 individuals who have spun and woven it at their own homes. 
 There seem to be no establishments, either large or small, for 
 spinning or weaving, the only approach to such being where 
 two or three families join their labour and divide the product. 
 After the cotton is flocked it is worked into light rolls about 
 half an inch in diameter by the use of a small, flat piece of board 
 with a handle, which is passed back and forth over the cotton on 
 a table. Three of these rolls are held between the fingers of 
 
XIV NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-^. 
 
 the spinner and spun off on to three spindles worked by a strap 
 running over the spinning wheel. The wheel is of wood, about 
 
 2 feet in diameter, and is worked by a rude treadle. The thread 
 thus made is used for weaving; sewing thread is made by 
 twisting three of these together. The thread for the warp is 
 sized with flour paste sometimes before and sometimes after 
 it is stretched on the loom. The weaving machinery is on the 
 same primitive scale as that used in all the other processes. It 
 is entirely of wood, and roughly dressed wood at that. The 
 batten is of delicate strips of bamboo, which is tough enough to 
 serve its purpose very well. The shuttle is thrown back and 
 forth by hand and caught in the hand at each end as it comes 
 out. A skilled and active worker can weave as much as 4 chang 
 of cloth in a day, but the average product is not more than 2\ or 
 
 3 chang a day for each hand employed. The cloth is generally 
 woven in lengths of 18, 20, and 22 ch'ih, and is 12 ts'un in width; 
 but different lengths and widths can be made if necessary. It is 
 sold for from 25 to 50 cash per ch'ih, according to fineness of 
 texture. The fabrics produced from cotton alone are not of 
 very many different kinds, the differences in the native cloths 
 being generally in texture and dimensions rather than the result 
 of separate and distinct processes of manufacture. The use of 
 different coloured threads, the mixing of colours, and the working 
 of different patterns all assist in increasing the variety. There is, 
 too, a kind of diagonal cloth, and a kind which is scraped with 
 a knife to give it a fuzzy appearance. 
 
 The cloth which is made at the farm-houses is either taken 
 to town and sold or is bought up by travelling traders, who pay 
 for it either with money or fancy wares. Some of the cloth is 
 made up into garments just as it comes from the loom, but 
 most of it goes to the dye-houses; and it is here that we first 
 see the cotton in the hands of craftsmen who do their work in 
 establishments of some size. In some of the dye-houses as 
 many as 40 men are employed. There are some establishments 
 devoted to dyeing red, some to dyeing blue, and others again to 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT.— INTRODUCTION. XV 
 
 bleaching white. Perhaps nine-tenths of the cloth is dyed blue, 
 this being the cheapest colour. The cloth having been first 
 sized with paste is soaked in vats 5 or 6 feet deep, containing the 
 dyeing substance, being passed from vat to vat into stronger and 
 stronger solutions. It is afterwards put into a wooden tub over 
 a fire and heated, to fix the colour. Figure-dyeing is done by 
 tracing the figures on the cloth and covering the parts of the 
 cloth which are within the figures with a paste made of ashes 
 and flour mixed with glue and alum. The piece is then steeped 
 in the dye without affecting the parts covered with the paste, 
 which is afterwards scraped off. Cloth is printed from wooden 
 blocks on which have been cut figures of men and women, 
 birds and beasts, landscapes, etc. Stencil plates are also used, 
 and the dye applied with a brush. The substances most used 
 in dyeing are indigo for blue ; nutgalls and a species of cone- 
 shaped fruit called the hua kuo, or flower fruit, for black; safflower 
 and sapanwood for red ; turmeric for yellow. 
 
 Besides the manufacture of cloth, bed quilts, and wadded 
 clothing, there are many smaller industries in which cotton is 
 employed. Such are the making of pouches, girdles, hand- 
 kerchiefs, tape, string, braid, cords of all sizes, lampwick, bed 
 canopies, table-cloths, cash bags, artificial flowers, sashes, felt 
 (from old rags), and various fancy articles, which, taken in 
 the aggregate, furnish employment to many hands. The cash 
 bags are woven from very large and strong threads and resemble 
 canvas. 
 
 A comparison of Chinese cotton cloth with foreign fabrics 
 results not altogether in favour of the latter. It is to be 
 expected, from the roughness of the machinery and the primitive 
 methods employed here, that the threads should be less even 
 and the weaving less regular; and in fineness of texture and 
 smoothness of surface the foreign cloth is certainly superior. 
 In stability, however, the native fabric is far ahead of the 
 common foreign piece goods. The first cost of English shirtings 
 and T-cloths is less than that of native cloth, but if the relative 
 
XVi NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 lengths of time which, the two kinds will last be considered, 
 it is doubtful which would prove the cheaper. 
 
 Foreign cotton goods are used by the well-to-do and the 
 poorer classes for two distinct reasons. The former use the finer 
 and more costly kinds because they are superior in appearance 
 to the native cloth; and the poor buy the common shirtings 
 because the state of their finances makes it easier for them to 
 purchase these than the Chinese fabric, even though they may 
 have to replace their garments twice as often. To what extent 
 foreign cotton goods take the place of the native may be inferred 
 from the following: figures, taken from the Customs Trade 
 Returns for 1883 : — 
 
 Import of Cotton Piece Goods from Foreign Countries 
 for the Year 1883. 
 
 Quantity. Value. 
 
 ; : Pieces. Hk.Tis. 
 
 Grey Shirtings 4,417,235 5,961,669 
 
 White Shirtings 1,585,867 2,616,470 
 
 T-Cloths 2,797,265 2,857,153 
 
 Dyed Shirtings n 3,974 139,289 
 
 Drills 500,884 1,125,592 
 
 Sheetings 840,534 1,965,197 
 
 Turkey Red Cloths 3 50,700 446,630 
 
 Jeans and Twills ...... 3*9,950 521,265 
 
 Chintzes, Cotton Prints, etc. . . 227,625 255,346 
 Jaconets, Cambrics, Lawns, Muslins 100,463 67,587 
 Velvets, Velveteens, Fustians . . 27,198 123,740 
 Other kinds 218,163 47^,479 
 
 Total 11,499,858 16,558,417 
 
 Besides this total of 11,499,858 pieces of various cotton 
 goods, there were imported 362,359 dozens of cotton hand- 
 kerchiefs. Taking the population of China at the low estimate 
 of 250,000,000, it will be seen that the foreign cottons cannot 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT. — INTRODUCTION. XV11 
 
 yet have made any considerable headway against the native 
 cloth, nor do they form so important a part in the clothing of 
 the people as the figures of the table — taken without reference to 
 the immense population — would seem to indicate. This state- 
 ment is only slightly modified by the fact that woollen piece 
 goods, which to some extent take the place of wadded cotton 
 clothes, were imported to the amount of 512,572 pieces, valued at 
 HJc.TU. 3,875,884, during the year, together with 5,746 pairs of 
 blankets, worth HhTts. 17,175. The popularity of the native- 
 made fabric is shown by the fact that cotton yarn and thread 
 to the extent of 228,006 piculs, valued at Hk.Tts. 5,241,994 
 (American gold $7,129,112), were imported from England and 
 India during the year 1883, to be woven on the native looms. 
 
 It may not be out of place to refer here to a fabric which is 
 peculiar to China and in the hot season is used very largely in 
 preference to cotton cloth. This is the J[ ^jj (hsia pu), or summer 
 cloth, known in English as grasscloth. It is woven from the 
 fibres of several different plants having the general characteris- 
 tics of hemp. The one most commonly used is the Urtica nivea. 
 The cloths woven from these plants are of all degrees of fine- 
 ness, but are divided into the two general classes of coarse and 
 fine grasscloth. The coarser kinds are cheap, and are much used 
 by the poor people in the summer, being of very open texture 
 and exceedingly durable. The finer qualities make the long, 
 white summer gowns of the well-to-do classes. They resemble 
 fine muslin, but are much stronger and more durable. Some of 
 the finest samples contain 100 threads to the inch. 
 
 As one would naturally suppose, the establishment at 
 Shanghai of spinning and weaving factories for manufacturing the 
 native cotton with foreign machinery has been long discussed 
 and twice attempted. About four years ago a company was 
 formed in which Chinese alone were interested, the projectors 
 having obtained from the Government special privileges amount- 
 ing to a monopoly in the manufacture of textile fabrics with 
 foreign machinery. The capital was all subscribed and paid up ; 
 
XViii NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 a competent agent was sent to the United States to obtain 
 machinery especially adapted to the working of the short staple 
 cotton ; land was procured, and the work of building commenced. 
 Meanwhile, however, owing — it is stated — to faults in manage- 
 ment, there was soon an empty treasury and an unfinished work. 
 The machinery arrived and was stored in warehouses, where it 
 still lies. No steps are likely to be taken for the resuscitation 
 of this enterprise for some time to come. The history of the 
 second attempt is shorter still. It was proposed to start a mill 
 for spinning only, and a company was formed for the purpose, 
 in which foreign as well as native capital was to be employed. 
 The stock was all subscribed for and the first instalment paid, 
 but the new company met with so much opposition from the 
 one already started that they were forced to give up the enter- 
 prise, and the money was returned in full to subscribers. The 
 rivalry of the new company was not reasonably to be feared, 
 however, since they proposed to carry on spinning only ; though 
 it may have been suspected that they intended to extend their 
 business after obtaining a foothold. Thus all attempts so far 
 have failed ; but such a field for the profitable employment of 
 capital is not likely to be long neglected, after general business 
 becomes better and money more plentiful in China than is the 
 case at the present time. 
 
 Shanghai, September 1884. 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION. 
 
 CHINA SECTION 
 
 Part I. 
 CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 I set Lanterns (4) 
 
 5) . )) 
 
 (4) 
 (4) 
 (4) 
 (4) 
 
 1 pair Banners . 
 
 ^^ >> 
 
 Scrolls 
 
 I » 
 
 mm 
 
 xnmmm 
 mnmmm 
 
 mm 
 
 Kwangtnng, Canton 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 10 
 
AT THE NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chfnese. 
 
 ^m mm 
 
 urn ±m 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 5S-3S 
 
 Hl-.Tts. 
 
 2.26 
 2.18 
 
 2.90 
 
 2.90 
 
 18.66 
 
 7.70 
 
 5.66 
 
 4.08 
 
 3.00 
 
 4.08 
 
 3.00 
 
 4.08 
 
 3.00 
 
 2.26 
 
 1.66 
 
 Length. 
 
 1.66 
 1.60 
 
 2.13 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Glass partly frosted, wooden frames, six- 
 sided. 
 
 Same as the preceding, but square. 
 
 Bamboo frames filled in with silk gauze, 
 hand painted, six-sided. 
 
 Same as the preceding, but square. 
 
 Same as the preceding, but fan-shaped. 
 
 ifc'JW PL " Tlie Great and Pure Empire." 
 ' ' The Great and Pure " is the name of the 
 present dynasty ruling China ; applied 
 also to the nation. 
 
 il of Wi $£ >fc 13> " The Great Cott °n 
 Exposition. " 
 
 Pf^yCB^ H 3p> " As from far De y° n< l 
 the clouds in spring the moon with liquid 
 refulgence shines ; [so the lustre of] a 
 proper observance of what is right [is 
 reflected upon] our country and our litera- 
 ture [causing both to] nourish." Written 
 in a style called liu ch'ao, or six dynasties. 
 Peculiar to the six dynasties preceding 
 the Posterior Liang, A.D. 907. 
 
 ^ fig # If ft " A s° odl y store of 
 
 riches renders one's days happy and 
 [further] gain easy ; the collection of 
 rare and precious things [at this Exposi- 
 tion] causes all who see it to express their 
 delight. " Written in the chuan character, 
 called by foreigners the seal character. 
 It is the most ancient style of writing, 
 and came after the picture hieroglyphics. 
 Books are not printed in it, its use being 
 limited to seals, inscriptions, and or- 
 namental writing. 
 
 *M 
 
 ifftli^l; 
 
 M If $1 M B fl#, "The prompt 
 and energetic execution of a wise design 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 AETICLB. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 i pair Scrolls 
 
 1 pair Porcelain Vases. 
 
 Porcelain Vase 
 
 1 pair Porcelain Vases 
 
 1 „ „ Garden Seats , 
 
 6 Porcelain Figures 
 
 1 pair Porcelain Garden Seats 
 
 6 Porcelain Figures 
 
 1 pair Porcelain Garden Seats 
 
 6 Porcelain Figures .., 
 
 6 pairs Porcelain Garden Seats .... 
 1 pair Porcelain Umbrella Stands , 
 
 mm 
 
 t&A 
 
 mm 
 m®§ 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Kiangsi, Kingtechen 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value, 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 EJc.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 o &i 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 um ±% 
 
 6.34 
 
 s.25 
 
 18.13 
 
 9-97 
 22.66 
 9.52 
 2.26 
 9.52 
 2.26 
 9.52 
 2.26 
 21.76 
 4.98 
 
 4.66 
 
 13-33 
 7-33 
 
 16.66 
 7.00 
 1.66 
 7.00 
 1.66 
 7.00 
 1.66 
 
 16.00 
 3.66 
 
 is known to all nations ; its beneficent 
 results extend to all, and happiness 
 follows as the seasons come round." 
 Written in the li character, or style of 
 official attendants. When first introduced, 
 used for engrossing documents ; now em- 
 ployed occasionally in prefaces and in- 
 scriptions. 
 
 "The gathering together here of rare 
 things will bring about intercourse with 
 foreign nations and increase the wealth 
 of China. The result of this great Ex- 
 position will be immense advantages to 
 the Black-haired Race." Written in the 
 Tc'ai character, or pattern style. It is 
 the common form of calligraphy, and all 
 public documents are drawn up in it. 
 No one can claim scholarship who can- 
 not write it neatly and correctly. 
 
 ffiM*v%>i&$k> " Inan exU - 
 
 bition where all things of rarity are 
 brought together, the ingenuity of the 
 workman draws forth the admiration of 
 all beholders." Written in the same 
 form of character as the preceding, but 
 in a more free style. 
 
 II 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 24 
 25 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 29 
 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 35 
 36 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 41 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 47 
 
 1 pair Porcelain Vases. 
 1 „ „ Jars.., 
 
 1 „ „ Vases. 
 
 1 » )J 5) • 
 
 1 JJ 5) 55 
 
 4 pairs „ 
 
 2 Porcelain Plates 
 
 4 pairs Porcelain Cuspidores . 
 pair Porcelain Flower Pots. 
 
 „ „ Bowls 
 
 o Porcelain Plates 
 
 pair Bamboo Hat Stands . 
 
 Vases for Pencils. 
 
 Bamboo Vase for Pencils . 
 
 1 pair Bamboo Vases for Pencils , 
 
 mm 
 mm 
 
 mBist 
 
 
 ®Mt 
 
 1ft W & 
 
 m3k 
 
 ft: 
 
 
 Kiangsi, Kingtechen 
 
 Kiangsu, Kiating 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TU. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 
 Ts'un. 
 
 £5 £ 
 
 EEMARKS. 
 
 
 ft¥ &JMM 
 
 9.06 
 
 6.66 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 4-53 
 
 3-33 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 4-53 
 
 3-33 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 3-27 
 
 2-33 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 5-44 
 
 4.00 
 
 
 
 Shaped somewhat similar to a pilgrim's 
 flagon. Used by Chinese for paper pipe- 
 lights, and hung against the wall. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 8.16 
 
 6.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 9.06 
 
 6.66 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 4-53 
 
 3-33 
 
 
 
 
 
 )5 55 
 
 4.08 
 
 3.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 3-27 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 4.08 
 
 3.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 13.60 
 
 10.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 UMMB, 
 
 3.62 
 
 2.66 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.72 
 
 o.53 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1.02 
 
 0.75 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1. 81 
 
 i-33 
 
 
 
 
 
 )5 55 
 
 1.81 
 
 i-33 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1.46 
 
 1.06 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.87 
 
 0.64 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.72 
 
 °-53 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.72 
 
 o.53 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.72 
 
 o.53 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 2.18 
 
 1.60 
 
 
 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 pair Bamboo Vases for Pencils . 
 
 » » 
 
 5) » 
 
 )) J5 
 
 )> » 
 
 Bamboo Vase for Pencils 
 
 1 box Bamboo Forfeit Tablets 
 
 Bamboo Feather Case. 
 
 Bead Box. 
 Seal „ 
 Tray 
 
 5 Bamboo Paper Weights 
 2 „ Pencil Kests.... 
 4 „ Hand „ 
 
 2 n n 11 ••• 
 
 /M-£5 
 
 m 
 
 wm%m 
 
 fmmm 
 
 immw 
 
 55 
 
 ffrHM: 
 
 tt»a« 
 
 )5 
 
 tfBME 
 
 ft**« 
 
 ff« 
 
 Kiangsu, Kiating 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 Peovince and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Anier. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 ¥> jS 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 ¥LM M& 
 
 0-3S 
 o.3S 
 o-3S 
 
 1.02 
 
 °-35 
 0-3S 
 0.27 
 0.14 
 
 o-35 
 0.44 
 1.09 
 
 0.26 
 0.26 
 0.26 
 
 0.75 
 0.26 
 0.26 
 0.20 
 0.10 
 0.26 
 0.32 
 0.80 
 
 I.OI 
 
 0.74 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.43 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.43 
 
 1.09 
 
 0.80 
 
 0.72 
 
 0.53 
 
 0.72 
 
 0-53 
 
 0.58 
 
 o.43 
 
 0.94 
 
 0.69 
 
 0.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 0.72 
 
 0-53 
 
 0.87 
 
 0.64 
 
 Used at drinking bouts. On each tablet 
 a few words are written, denoting pecu- 
 liarities in individuals ; these are drawn, 
 and the unlucky or lucky one whose 
 case it meets pays the penalty by drinking 
 either one or as many cups of wine as 
 have been previously agreed upon. 
 
 Used for peacocks' feathers, the insignia of 
 official hats. 
 
 The same as the preceding, but used for 
 the smaller feather. 
 
 For beads or necklaces worn by officials. 
 
 For resting the wrist on while writing. 
 
10 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 2 Bamboo Task Scorers , 
 
 2 „ Needle Cases , 
 
 3 „ Paper Knives 
 
 4 „ „ Knife Cases 
 
 5 „ Spectacle Cases 
 
 2 pairs Bamboo Scissors 
 
 Series of Pictures (20) illustrating 
 Cotton Cultivation and Fabrication. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 m 
 
 mm 
 mm® 
 
 mm 
 +te 
 
 Models : — 
 Farmhouse . 
 
 Cotton Gin, with figure of boy 
 working it. 
 
 AmM 
 ftffi?8 
 
 Flocking Bow, with figure of nian jpp^^J 
 working it. 
 
 Cotton Spinning Machine, with 
 figure of woman spinning. 
 
 Cotton Spinning Machine 
 
 Machine (with figures) for pre 
 paring Yarn previous to placing 
 in the loom. 
 
 Loom, with figure of woman at 
 work. 
 
 Machine for reeling Thread, with 
 figure of girl at work. 
 
 >wM. 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 Kiangsu, Kiating .. 
 
 Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo. 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 II 
 
 Pkovince and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 lllc.lts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 tm m%. 
 
 ±m 
 
 0.07 
 0.22 
 0.44 
 1.81 
 1.81 
 0.36 
 in. 52 
 
 0.05 
 0.16 
 0.32 
 
 i-33 
 i-33 
 
 0.27 
 82.00 
 
 11 11 
 
 )) 11 
 
 ftf£±i 
 
 mm mm 
 
 Used by students for checking their tasks. 
 Used also for winding thread on. 
 
 For cutting fresh flowers. 
 
 (1) Tilling; (2) Sowing ; (3) Weeding; (4) 
 Fertilising ; (5) The Farmer's Inspection ; 
 (6) Gathering ; (7) Uprooting the Stalks ; 
 (8) Drying ; (9) Separating the different 
 Qualities; (10) Ginning; (11) Selling and 
 Packing; (12) Flocking; (13) Preparing 
 Flocked Cotton for Spinning; (14) The 
 Spinning Machine; (15) Reeling Yarn; 
 (16) Preparing Tarn for the Loom; (17) 
 The Loom ; (18) Agent Buying Cloth from 
 Country People; (19) Packing Cloth; 
 (20) Cloth Store ; Country Women Selling- 
 Cloth. 
 
 On an average, one man can flock 20 catties, 
 or 27 lbs., of cotton a day. 
 
 Used for making cotton yarn. 
 
 The same as the above, by which three 
 threads can be reeled by one person. 
 The inventor of this machine, a woman 
 named Hoang, who lived during the 
 Ming dynasty, was apotheosised for her 
 ingenuity, and a temple dedicated to her 
 memory stands in Shanghai. 
 
 The reeling process as illustrated here fol- 
 lows the spinning of the yarn, after which 
 it is stretched on apparatus No. 82, pre- 
 vious to being placed in the loom. 
 
12 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Models — cont. 
 
 Glazing Apparatus. 
 
 Cotton Press 
 
 Endless-chain Pump. 
 
 Country Man carrying Cotton to 
 Market. 
 
 Peddler with Pack 
 
 Inland-water Junk : Chekiang pro- 
 vince. 
 
 Sea-going Junk, Cotton laden : Fu- 
 kien province. 
 
 Literatus writing, with an Abacus 
 by hini. 
 
 Baby (Girl) in chair, with toys ; 
 common life. 
 
 Baby (Boy) standing ; common life 
 
 Mandarin (with paraphernalia), in 
 winter attire. 
 
 tfttfSM 
 
 nnm 
 
 mm 
 
 *ASE#±lff 
 
 F3 MSa.i 
 
 rtTA 
 
 
 ■kmmmw 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo. 
 
 5J » 
 
 11 11 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 13 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 HlcTta. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 ? s 
 
 6 & 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 ^'A 
 
 um ±\ 
 
 9ti n?; 
 
 The material having been tightly rolled, the 
 roller is removed and placed on a block of 
 granite, on to which the block, V-shaped, 
 is tilted and worked by the feet of a 
 man, who steadies himself by the two 
 lateral bars. 
 
 The dimensions of this press when in use are 
 8 feet high, 6 feet long, and 2 feet 8 inches 
 broad. The pressing is done by a man 
 dropping into the sack as the cotton is 
 placed in it, and, by a succession of 
 bounds, reducing it to its narrowest limits 
 possible. Having no proper machinery 
 for carding, cotton pressed by any great 
 power would find no favour with the 
 Chinese. 
 
 Worked by an ox or water-buffalo. 
 
 Worked by men or boys, who, steadying 
 themselves by the upper bar, tread the 
 hobs on the lower beam. 
 
 The pack is a number of boxes fitting on 
 to each other. The wares consist entirely 
 of cloth and haberdashery. In his hand 
 the peddler carries a small rattle, by 
 which he signals his presence as he passes 
 along the street. 
 
 The abacus, or reckoning board, is indis- 
 pensable in all calculations made by 
 Chinese; and in its absence a substitution 
 based on its decimal principle, with the 
 beads represented by copper cash, pieces 
 of paper, or sticks, is resorted to. The 
 two beads on one side of the bar, which 
 traverse it longitudinally, represent five 
 each ; the five on the lower division stand 
 for units. 
 
14 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Pkoduction — 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 97 
 
 98 
 
 99 
 
 100 
 
 101 
 
 Models — cont. 
 
 Buddhist Priest, in winter attire... 
 
 Bride, in wedding garments 
 Idol 
 
 Widow, in full mourning ; common 
 life. 
 
 Boards for stamping Cotton Cloth; 
 11 specimens. 
 
 »ffA 
 
 102 
 
 103 
 104 
 105 
 106 
 107 
 108 
 109 
 
 Stencil Parchment Sheets for Printing 
 9 specimens. 
 
 Hoe. 
 
 Pick Hoe 
 
 White Cotton, without Seed, 1st Quality 
 i) » )) » 2ncl » 
 
 )5 55 5) » 3 rC l 55 
 
 Yellow „ „ „ 1st „ 
 
 55 55 55 55 2nCl - 55 
 
 mftWftM 
 
 1 si 
 
 — ~ hit s ■ •*• 
 
 — » Afi - zH: -*+• 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 15 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 IIIi.Tts. 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 mu i« 
 
 trm ±m 
 
 16.00 
 
 4-53 
 
 0.27 
 0.68 
 
 W picul, 
 IS.06 
 
 13-85 
 12.63 
 
 7.75 
 6.8l 
 
 0.20 
 
 O.50 
 
 & picul 
 II.08 
 
 IO.I4 
 
 9.29 
 
 5.70 
 
 5.01 
 
 The branded spots which adorn the front 
 portion of his cranium are evidence of 
 his having taken the necessary vows, 
 each of which is impressed on his memory 
 by this fiery ordeal. Their presence 
 entitles him to admittance to all Bud- 
 dhistic monasteries, and gives him a claim 
 to food and lodging therein. 
 
 The use of the stick, which is adorned with 
 small pieces of white paper and is sup- 
 posed to support her tottering frame, is 
 restricted to 49 days from her husband's 
 decease, during which time, her grief 
 being so intense, she takes but little 
 nourishment. This attire is only worn 
 when following the remains to the place 
 where they are to be deposited previous 
 to final interment, which may be a year 
 or years after. 
 
 The tedious process employed in the use 
 of these boards is sufficient indication 
 of the industry of the Chinese people. 
 Placing the surface of the cloth, which 
 is to be the face, on the board, a tough 
 piece of bamboo is employed in rubbing 
 over the cloth till the impression is shown 
 through ; the colouring is then lightly and 
 frequently applied with a hair brush to 
 the portions requiring it, each application 
 being followed by frequent rubbings. 
 
 See note, p. 30. 
 
 From the same plant as the preceding, but 
 depreciates because soiled. 
 
16 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 110 
 
 111 
 
 White Cotton, flocked, 1st Quality , 
 Brown „ „ 
 
 112 
 113 
 114 
 115 
 116 
 117 
 118 
 119 
 120 
 121 
 122 
 123 
 
 ■asm 
 
 White Seed Cotton 
 
 Black „ „ 
 
 Yellow „ „ 
 
 Black „ „ 
 
 Yellow „ „ 
 
 White Cotton, without Seed 
 Brown „ „ „ 
 
 White Cotton Seed, White . 
 » Black.., 
 
 Brown „ „ 
 
 Cotton Pods, opened. 
 
 Cotton Seed Oil 
 
 
 ■ft 
 
 
 mm 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Hupeh, Hankow .. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 17 
 
 Province akd Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 & 5 -5 
 
 5 o g 
 
 Width. 
 
 4 I 
 
 d S 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 UM ±ffi 
 
 m an 
 
 urn ±m 
 
 $ picul. 
 16.84 
 
 I4.32 
 
 V picul, 
 12.38 
 
 IO-S3 
 
 3-67 
 
 2.72 
 
 4.22 
 
 3.10 
 
 3-36 
 
 2.47 
 
 547 
 
 4.02 
 
 10.10 
 
 743 
 
 15.25 
 
 11. 21 
 
 15.91 
 
 11.70 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 5.44 4.00 
 
 first crushed under a heavy stone block of about 7 
 worked on a stone of similar dimensions ; the pulp 
 holds a quantity sufficient to make one cake ; it is 
 
 From this cotton, called purple or brown 
 by Chinese, is manufactured the material 
 of a yellowish-brown colour which in 
 the early days of foreign intercourse 
 with China received the name of "nan- 
 keen," and which has since almost 
 become the generic term of all undyed 
 cotton cloth of Chinese make. It is 
 said that immersion in log-wood dye 
 produces no change in its colour, while 
 white cotton undergoes a transition to 
 violet. Grown in small quantities in the 
 northern provinces. 
 
 Averages 34 per cent, net after ginning. 
 
 The same as No. 113. 
 
 The same as No. 114. Grown sparsely in 
 Hupeh province. 
 
 In expressing cotton seed oil the seed is 
 feet in diameter, which is turned by a buffalo and 
 is then steamed in wicker baskets, each of which 
 then placed in a bamboo hoop and stamped down 
 
 with the feet, and a little chopped straw is scattered on top to prevent agglomeration when the next 
 is placed on it. Fifteen or twenty cakes are thus built up, and the whole laid lengthwise in a 
 wooden trough and tightly wedged up with hard-wood, the main wedge being finally inserted and 
 driven home with a heavy stone hammer, the oil passing out through a hole at the bottom of the 
 trough into a receptacle. From good, fresh, white seed 6 per cent, is expressed, while old seed yields 
 only 3 per cent. Black seed is not in favour, owing to its toughness and small yield ; yellow or 
 brown cotton seed is so rare that, though considered inferior to white, it is mixed with the latter, 
 and passes unnoticed. Cotton seed oil, after being clarified or strained through silk pongee, is used 
 for adulterating bean oil; for lighting purposes it is unpopular owing to the quantity of smoke it 
 throws off ; mixed with tobacco, it is said to be an excellent remedy for skin diseases in cattle. 
 
18 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ABTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 124 
 
 Cotton Seedcake. 
 
 tt¥* 
 
 125 
 
 126 
 127 
 128 
 129 
 130 
 
 131 
 132 
 133 
 134 
 135 
 136 
 137 
 138 
 139 
 140 
 141 
 
 Beancake 
 
 Steelyard 
 
 Jl1 
 
 "Encyclopedia of Agriculture," 24 vols. 
 
 3 Cloth Bags 
 
 1 piece J 
 
 J lam UI01 
 
 I 55 
 
 55 5) 
 
 * J) 
 
 5) 55 
 
 * 55 
 
 55 )) 
 
 1 55 
 
 )) 55 
 
 I 5) 
 
 55 55 
 
 1 55 
 
 55 5) 
 
 1 )) 
 
 5) JJ 
 
 1 5) 
 
 55 55 
 
 1 )) 
 
 55 55 
 
 titsi 
 
 juleps 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Shengking,N'chwang 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 5> 
 
 5) 55 
 
 Sungkiang 
 
 Shanghai 
 
 Sungkiang 
 
 Shanghai 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . . 
 Kiangsu, Sungkiang 
 
 „ Shanghai 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 19 
 
 Pbovince and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hlc.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width, 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 ttm ±5 
 
 aa *m 
 
 fti§±; 
 
 mi 
 
 « mm 
 urn mtt 
 
 » ±m 
 
 um ±m 
 
 0.45 
 
 $ picul. 
 
 0.33 
 
 <P picul. 
 
 O.90 
 
 O.66 
 
 O.50 
 
 0.37 
 
 0.1s 
 
 O.I I 
 
 0,11 
 
 0.08 
 
 1.31 
 
 0.96 
 
 0.14 
 
 O.IO 
 
 0.57 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 0.40 
 
 0.30 
 
 0.40 
 
 0.30 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.37 
 
 1.17 
 
 0.85 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.27 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.37 
 
 0.37 
 
 0.27 
 
 0.65 
 
 0.48 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 6 
 
 2 o 
 
 3 9 
 
 1 6 
 
 2 o 
 2 1 
 
 2 2 
 
 92 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 o 
 I o 
 
 I 2 
 
 9i 
 
 1 2 
 1 1 
 1 5 
 
 Actual cash transactions seldom take place 
 in the purchase of this commodity, a 
 system of barter being generally followed. 
 Farmers bringing the seed to oil factories 
 receive in exchange an equal weight of 
 seedcake, which they use for feeding 
 cattle, and in some parts of the Kiangsu 
 province for manuring millet and sugar- 
 cane. 
 
 Residue of beans and peas after the oil has 
 been expressed; used chiefly as a manure, 
 also as fodder for cattle. 
 
 Will weigh 1 picul 7 catties=i4; 
 
 25 catties=33^ lbs. 
 
 14 
 
 :i9§ lbs. 
 
 This is one of the most exhaustive works 
 on agriculture in the Chinese language; 
 it is divided into 60 chapters, is illustrated 
 with wood etchings, and each chapter 
 treats of a particular subject. The author 
 was Hsu KuANG-CH%of the Ming dynasty, 
 who lived in Shanghai. 
 
 Used by women for gathering cotton in. 
 
 For making wearing apparel. Bleached and 
 glazed. 
 
 For making wearing apparel. Bleached. 
 
 Usually called "nankeens;" manufactured 
 from tsu or brown cotton. 
 
 The same as the preceding, but glazed. 
 
 Of coarser quality than the two preceding 
 kinds ; unglazed. 
 
 Of still coarser quality than the preceding. 
 
 For making wearing apparel. 
 
 Coarser than the preceding, but has same 
 use. 
 
 For sacking and lining. 
 
20 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Pboduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 piece Plain Cloth , 
 
 Imitation Lamb-skin. 
 
 piece Dyed Cloth 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Ts'ungrning 
 Hupeh, Hanyang ... 
 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow. 
 
 ■>■> » 
 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 Kiangsu, Soochow.. 
 Chekiang, Ningpo.. 
 Hupeh, Hanyang .. 
 
 5> 11 •• 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 PJ 
 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 21 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Anier. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TTs. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width, 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 -M mm 
 
 UM MM 
 
 mu w» 
 
 urn ±m 
 
 0.90 
 0.45 
 0.45 
 0.45 
 0.64 
 0.31 
 0.31 
 
 0.33 
 0.83 
 
 O.IO 
 
 0.69 
 0.46 
 0.92 
 
 0.97 
 0.97 
 0.97 
 0.97 
 0.97 
 0.97 
 0.56 
 0.50 
 0.61 
 
 0.66 
 0.33 
 0.33 
 0.33 
 0.47 
 0.23 
 0.23 
 
 2.24 
 0.61 
 0.07 
 
 0.51 
 
 0.34 
 0.68 
 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.41 
 
 0.68 
 0.45 
 
 5 3 o 
 3 5 o 
 3 5 o 
 3 5 o 
 380 
 200 
 200 
 1 9 o 
 300 
 1 3 6 
 220 
 140 
 320 
 320 
 320 
 320 
 320 
 320 
 320 
 1 6 o 
 1 8 o 
 1 8 o 
 
 1 1* 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 2 
 
 ° 9i 
 
 ° 92 
 
 8J 
 
 1 7 
 
 8| 
 
 1 o 
 I o 
 o 9 
 o 9 
 o 9 
 o 9 
 o 9 
 o 9 
 o 9 
 o 8^ 
 o 8£ 
 o 8 
 
 For sacking and lining. 
 
 For making wearing apparel. 
 
 Bleached. Used for funeral decorations. 
 
 Unbleached. For same use. 
 
 For lining and cleaning purposes. 
 
 For sacking. 
 
 For sacking and towelling. 
 
 All cotton. 
 
 A little coarser than the preceding. 
 
 Slatish-blue ; figured. Used principally for 
 the long gowns worn by men. 
 
 Dark blue ; figured. 
 
 Lighter blue than the preceding ; figured. 
 
 Dark green ; figured. 
 
 Black; figured. 
 
 Grey ; figured. 
 
 Slate; figured. 
 
 Turquoise blue ; glazed. Used principally 
 
 for making women's socks. 
 Violet. Clothing for women and children. 
 
 Pea green. The process of dyeing enhances 
 its value. The cloth, while still wet 
 with the dye, is laid on a surface and 
 exposed to the night air of early winter, 
 and the frost, chemically affecting it, 
 causes the colour to become lighter on 
 one side than on the other. Clothing 
 for women and children. 
 
22 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 Place of Pkodtjction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. Name in English. 
 
 piece Dyed Cloth 
 
 ,. MX 
 
 K 
 
 » •>■> 
 
 
 „ n& 
 
 m 
 
 
 Krnwmm 
 mat 6 
 
 Kiangsu, Sungkiang 
 
 Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 23 
 
 Province 
 
 and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 BEMARKS. 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 S 
 
 i 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 urn 
 
 MC 
 
 O.64 
 
 O.47 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Violet. ClotliiDg for women and children. 
 
 
 )> 
 
 >> 
 
 0.54 
 
 O.40 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 Red. Clothing for women and children. 
 
 
 j> 
 
 )) 
 
 0.43 
 
 O.32 
 
 1 6 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 Pea green. Clothing for women and children. 
 The same as No. 163, but glazed. 
 
 
 » 
 
 )) 
 
 0.57 
 
 O.42 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 8£ 
 
 Dark violet ; glazed. Clothing for both 
 sexes. 
 
 
 J? 
 
 )) 
 
 0.57 
 
 O.42 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Black. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 » 
 
 )J 
 
 0.57 
 
 O.42 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 Black. Clothing for both sexes. Finer than 
 the preceding. 
 
 
 >5 
 
 )) 
 
 O.57 
 
 O.42 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Dark violet; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 O.49 
 
 O.36 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Dark blue ; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 5) 
 
 » 
 
 O.49 
 
 O.36 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 The same as the preceding, but lighter in 
 colour. 
 
 
 )> 
 
 )> 
 
 O.49 
 
 O.36 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 The same as the preceding, but still lighter 
 in colour. 
 
 
 » 
 
 J3 
 
 O.48 
 
 o-35 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Dark violet; glazed. Clothing for both 
 sexes. 
 
 
 M 
 
 »» 
 
 O.57 
 
 0.42 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Blue ; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 O.57 
 
 0.42 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 The same, but lighter in colour. 
 
 
 J) 
 
 J) 
 
 O.57 
 
 0.42 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 The same, but still lighter in colour. 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 O.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Grey. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 » 
 
 )) 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Slatish-blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 >J 
 
 » 
 
 O.64 
 
 0.47 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 Light green ; glazed and then scraped. 
 Clothing for women and children. 
 
 
 » 
 
 )> 
 
 O.64 
 
 0.47 
 
 1 9 
 
 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 The same, but of darker colour. 
 
 
 " 
 
 ±» 
 
 O.67 
 
 0.49 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 Blue ; glazed and then scraped. Clothing 
 for both sexes. 
 
 
 >> 
 
 5) 
 
 O.84 
 
 0.62 
 
 2 1 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 The same, but lighter in colour. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 J) 
 
 O.67 
 
 0.49 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 The same, but with the faintest tinge of 
 blue. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 5) 
 
 O.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 Dark blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 » 
 
 O.50 
 
 0-37 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 The same, but lighter in colour. 
 
 
 5) 
 
 )) 
 
 O.SO 
 
 o.37 
 
 1 7 
 
 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 The same, but still lighter in colour. 
 
24 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 piece Dyed Cloth. 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 . TnT. 
 
 55 
 
 : m 
 
 55 
 
 mu 
 
 m 
 #& 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 32 
 
 m 
 
 pj 
 
 
 w- 
 
 $£> 
 
 Sungkians 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 25 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TU. 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 um ±m 
 
 ®& 
 
 0.57 
 0.57 
 0.57 
 0.72 
 0.64 
 0.72 
 0.64 
 
 0.73 
 0.69 
 0.76 
 0.71 
 0.76 
 
 0.64 
 0.76 
 
 0.64 
 0.48 
 0.48 
 0.40 
 0.40 
 0.40 
 0.47 
 0.54 
 0.60 
 
 0.42 
 0.42 
 0.42 
 
 0.53 
 0.47 
 
 0.53 
 0.47 
 0.54 
 0.51 
 0.56 
 0.52 
 0.56 
 
 0.47 
 0.56 
 
 0.47 
 0.35 
 0.35 
 0.30 
 0.30 
 0.30 
 
 0.35 
 0.40 
 0.44 
 
 9 o 
 
 9 o 
 
 9 o 
 
 9 5 
 
 7 o 
 
 9 5 
 
 7 o 
 
 9 5 
 
 9 5 
 
 9 S 
 
 7 o 
 
 9 5 
 
 7 o 
 
 9 o 
 
 7 o 
 
 7 o 
 
 7 o 
 
 5 5 
 
 5 5 
 
 5 5 
 
 5 5 
 
 5 o 
 
 5 5 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 r 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 ° 9j 
 o gh 
 
 ° 9* 
 o gh 
 o 9 
 o g\ 
 
 The same as No. 185. 
 
 The same as No. 186. 
 
 The same as No. 187. 
 
 Black. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Finer woven than the preceding. 
 
 Dark violet. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 The same as the preceding. 
 
 Of a lighter colour and finer woven than 
 the preceding. 
 
 Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Pink. Clothing for women and children. 
 
 Pea green. The same as No. 163. 
 
 This peculiar yellowish-green tint is obtained 
 by first dyeing the material blue and then 
 yellow. Used as clothing for women 
 and children. 
 
 Turquoise blue. Clothing for women and 
 
 children. 
 Light green. Clothing for women and 
 
 children. 
 
 Light olive green. Clothing for women 
 and children. 
 
 Slate. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Slatish-blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Dark blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Same, but of a lighter shade. 
 
 Same, but of a still lighter shade. 
 
 Slatish-mauve. Used in mourning as cloth- 
 ing for both sexes. 
 
 Chrome yellow. Used for children's cloth- 
 ing. 
 
 Violet ; glazed. Clothing for women and 
 children. 
 
26 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Pkoduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 piece Dyed Cloth 
 
 >) » 
 
 )5 )> 
 
 1J )) 
 
 )) J> 
 
 
 
 $1* 
 
 /I 
 
 » ®m 
 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 
 fairs 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow. 
 
 „ Shanghai 
 Chekiang, Shihraen 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Huangt'ai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 27 
 
 Pkovince and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 § 5 * 
 
 o o S 
 
 Width. 
 
 O Ei 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 mzc *l*h 
 
 £1 
 
 
 0.46 
 0.48 
 0.62 
 0.48 
 0.50 
 0.48 
 
 0.54 
 0.39 
 
 0.39 
 0.39 
 
 0.31 
 0.31 
 0.31 
 0.31 
 0.31 
 
 °-34 
 0.60 
 1.02 
 0.50 
 0.58 
 0.52 
 
 o.34 
 0.36 
 0.46 
 0-3S 
 o.37 
 0-3S 
 
 0.40 
 0.29 
 
 0.29 
 0.29 
 
 0.23 
 0.23 
 0.23 
 0.23 
 0.23 
 0.25 
 0.44 
 0.75 
 o.37 
 0.43 
 0.38 
 
 222 
 200 
 225 
 1 9 o 
 200 
 190 
 
 200 
 190 
 
 190 
 190 
 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 120 
 210 
 220 
 1 5 o 
 200 
 1 8 o 
 
 1 1 
 1 0} 
 1 1 
 
 o 8J 
 
 9s 
 
 8i 
 
 1 o 
 
 o 8* 
 
 o 8$ 
 o 8| 
 
 ° 92 
 o 9§ 
 
 o 9\ 
 
 O 92 
 
 9i 
 
 8 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 o 
 o 9 
 
 Dark blue. Used for lining. 
 
 Orange yellow. For decorative purposes and 
 children's clothing. 
 
 Pink. Used for lining. 
 Same, but of a darker shade. 
 Emerald green. Used for lining. 
 Olive green. Used for lining. 
 
 Same, but of a lighter shade. 
 
 Bright yellow. Used for sere garments. 
 The privilege of wearing this imperial 
 yellow is allowed to those who have 
 reached 80 years of age. Used also to 
 bury the dead in, and by Buddhist 
 priests for long gowns. 
 
 Cardinal red. Used for decorative purposes. 
 Same as the above, but of lighter shade. 
 
 Scarlet. A very coarse material ; used as 
 lining. 
 
 Orange yellow. A very coarse material; 
 used as lining. 
 
 Blue. A very coarse material; used as 
 lining. 
 
 Pink. A very coarse material; used as 
 
 lining. 
 
 Emerald green. A very coarse material; 
 used as lining. 
 
 Dark blue; glazed and scraped. Clothing 
 for both sexes. 
 
 Dark blue ; glazed. Clothing for both sexes. 
 Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Pea green. Same as No. 163, but glazed. 
 Sap green. Same as No. 163. 
 
28 
 
 NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 232 
 233 
 234 
 235 
 236 
 237 
 238 
 239 
 240 
 
 241 
 242 
 243 
 244 
 245 
 246 
 
 247 
 248 
 
 249 
 250 
 
 piece Dyed Cloth 
 
 56 pieces Dyed Cloth . 
 
 15 » 
 
 >> 55 
 
 )) » » 
 
 1 piece Stamped Cloth. 
 
 -j-»-M» 
 
 » VfcMa. 
 
 » X& 
 
 » Mr 
 
 >> ?> 
 
 TOI±«t& 
 
 tmfiBn 
 
 Chekiang, Shihmen 
 Kiangsu, Soochow.. 
 
 „ Shanghai 
 Hupeh, Hanyang .. 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow. 
 
 „ Shanghai 
 
 )> )5 
 
 » ra 
 
 m 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 29 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hh.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 S h 
 
 EEMARKS. 
 
 
 ±B 
 
 >) ?) 
 
 urn mm 
 
 ±m 
 
 0.58 
 0.88 
 0.88 
 0.70 
 1.28 
 
 1. 12 
 
 I.29 
 O.88 
 
 1.86 
 
 0.95 
 1.28 
 1.02 
 0.76 
 1.05 
 9.70 
 
 » » 
 
 1.52 
 
 0.75 
 0.80 
 
 043 
 0.65 
 0.65 
 0.56 
 0.94 
 0.82 
 0.95 
 0.65 
 i-37 
 
 0.70 
 0.94 
 0.75 
 0.56 
 0.77 
 7.03 
 
 i-37 
 1. 12 
 
 0.55 
 0.59 
 
 250 
 300 
 300 
 270 
 380 
 380 
 
 3 1 o 
 380 
 3 7o 
 
 380 
 380 
 380 
 3 8 o 
 380 
 1 5 o 
 
 1 o 
 
 1 6 
 1 6 
 
 1 2 
 1 1 
 1 o| 
 I o 
 I o 
 
 I 
 I 
 I 
 
 I 
 I 
 o 7s 
 
 o 5 
 
 200 
 
 1 2 
 
 Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Yellow. Same as No. 218. 
 
 Orange. Same use as the preceding. 
 
 Grey. Used by military officers for the long 
 
 gowns worn during a campaign. 
 Olive green. The same as No. 163. 
 
 Sap green. Finer than the above, and 
 
 glazed. 
 Deep purple. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Black. Clothing for both sexes. Dyed 
 blue in first bath, then a darker shade 
 in second, and black in third and final 
 bath. 
 
 Pink. Clothing for women and children. 
 
 A little coarser and of a lighter shade than 
 the preceding. 
 
 Blue. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 The same as the preceding, but of a lighter 
 
 shade. 
 Ash grey. A little finer than the preceding. 
 
 Of various colours. (The average price per 
 piece is $0.27.) The price varies ac- 
 cording to the colour, the dye vised, and 
 the number of times the material is 
 placed in the bath. Used for women's 
 socks. 
 
 Of various colours. (Average price per piece 
 $0.12.) As the preceding, the price 
 varies. 
 
 Of various dimensions, colours, and prices. 
 Used in coffins for laying over the lime 
 on which the dead are placed ; also for 
 decorations at funerals. 
 
 White figures on green ground, stamped on 
 both sides. Used for covering wadded 
 bed quilts and as clothing for children. 
 
 White figures on violet ground, stamped on 
 both sides. Same use as the above. 
 
30 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 piece Stamped Cloth 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 piece Fancy Cloth 
 
 $bW&mw& Kian s su > sha *g hai 
 
 Wk 
 
 &m 
 
 mMi& 
 
 Hi 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 -The above samples of stamped cloth (Nos. 249-264) are but a few varieties of the material use 
 the Chinese on account of its durability. The figuring is done by means of linn 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 31 
 
 'rovince and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 UM ±f» 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 O.70 
 O.61 
 
 0.65 
 O.64 
 O.57 
 
 0.57 
 O.63 
 
 O.63 
 
 O.72 
 O.72 
 O.71 
 
 O.99 
 I.I4 
 1. 12 
 
 1. 14 
 
 O.72 
 
 O.83 
 
 Length. 
 
 1 3* „- 
 
 O O & 
 
 O.S2 
 0.4S 
 
 O.48 
 0.47 
 0.42 
 0.42 
 O.46 
 
 O.46 
 0-53 
 
 o.S3 
 0.52 
 
 o.73 
 0.84 
 0.82 
 
 o.53 
 o-35 
 0.61 
 0.^2 
 
 Width. 
 
 5 h 
 
 2 2 
 
 i 9 o 
 
 1 9 6 
 190 
 170 
 170 
 1 9 6 
 
 1 9 6 
 
 1 9 o 
 190 
 200 
 
 3 7o 
 3 8 o 
 3 7o 
 
 380 
 
 3 7o 
 230 
 
 380 
 
 170 
 
 BEMARKS. 
 
 I 2 
 I l| 
 
 I I* 
 
 I 2 
 
 I I 
 
 I I 
 
 I 2 
 
 I 2 
 
 I 2 
 I 2 
 I 2 
 
 I I* 
 
 I I 
 
 I Ij 
 
 I I 
 
 I I* 
 
 White figures on blue ground, stamped on 
 ■both sides. Same use as the above. 
 
 Same as the above. The pattern is called 
 ssu clii hua, or "flowers of the four sea- 
 sons :" the peach, the lotus, the chrysan- 
 themum, and epindendrum. 
 
 White figures on blue ground, stamped on 
 both sides. Same use as the above. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 Diners from the above only in being of a 
 
 lighter shade of blue. 
 White figures on blue ground, stamped on 
 
 both sides. Pattern called "butterfly 
 
 and epidendrum." 
 
 The same as the above. The design is 
 plum blossoms, chrysanthemums, and 
 bamboo leaves. 
 
 Blue figures on white ground, stamped on 
 both sides. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 White figures on blue ground ; stamped 
 only on one side. Used solely for cover- 
 ing wadded bed quilts. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 Blue and white stripes. Used for clothing 
 for both sexes. 
 
 Blue mottled. Used for clothing for both 
 sexes. 
 
 Blue and white plaid. Used for covering 
 wadded bed quilts. 
 
 Blue and white check. Used for covering 
 wadded bed quilts. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 UM -£?# a4 3 °-3 2 1701-3 
 
 very largely in clothing for children, principally girls, up to the age of 14. It is in great favour with 
 which is applied through oiled parchment, on which the design is cut out. 
 
32 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 270 
 
 I piece Fancy Cloth 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 
 
 371 
 
 r 
 
 IT* !La 
 
 » » 
 
 
 
 m 
 
 T 
 
 MW^lEl 
 
 11 11 
 
 
 
 273 
 
 j 
 
 *ji^^K6 
 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 
 
 
 374 
 
 j 
 
 $Pli«P^& 
 
 n » 
 
 
 
 275 
 
 T 
 
 2$$£P3& 
 
 >j 11 
 
 
 
 27fi 
 
 
 ft 
 
 
 
 
 277 
 
 
 19 & 
 
 
 
 
 378 
 
 
 ffi3MM*£ 
 ft 
 
 Honan, Hanyang ... 
 
 
 
 279 
 
 2 „ 
 
 P4& 
 
 11 11 ••• 
 
 
 
 280 
 
 
 ft 
 
 11 11 ••• 
 
 
 
 381 
 
 
 
 11 11 "• 
 
 
 
 383 
 
 2 , 
 
 
 
 383 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow... 
 
 ?84 
 
 
 385 
 
 
 
 
 386 
 
 
 
 
 387 
 
 
 11 
 
 » 11 ••• 
 
 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 33 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 um m 
 
 }■> » 
 
 » » 
 
 j» ?j 
 
 )> » 
 
 M ^P 
 
 » 5) 
 
 Wit f 1 
 
 )J 5) 
 
 » » 
 
 frU Mi 
 
 » 5) 
 
 » )) 
 
 )) » 
 
 )> )5 
 
 0.28 
 O.58 
 
 0.43 
 0.55 
 
 i 7 o 
 
 0.43 176 
 
 0.32 
 0.41 
 
 0.55 J 0.41 
 
 0.55 
 
 1. 14 
 
 1. 14 
 
 R piece. 
 I.67 
 
 I.26 
 
 1-35 
 
 1. 54 
 1.22 
 
 1,22 
 M3 
 
 0.41 
 0.84 
 
 0.84 
 
 $ piece. 
 I.23 
 
 0.93 
 
 O.74 
 
 O.99 
 
 i-33 
 
 I-I3 
 
 0.90 
 0.90 
 0.83 
 
 170 
 
 225 
 225 
 222 
 030 
 
 030 
 
 034 
 032 
 030 
 
 3 3 
 
 o 5 7 
 
 056 
 
 o 5 4$ 
 
 O 5 2| 
 
 o 5 5 
 
 o 5 4 
 
 25 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 7* 
 
 1\ 
 
 3 9 
 
 3 7h 
 
 3 9 
 
 3 7 
 
 3 9 
 
 3 9 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 Blue and white plaid. Same use as the 
 preceding. 
 
 Blue, white, and yellow plaid. Same use as 
 the preceding. 
 
 Blue mottled. Clothing for both sexes. 
 
 Blue and white stripes. Imitation of grass- 
 cloth. Same use as the preceding. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 Wool worked over a cotton ground. Used 
 by Chinese for laying across saddles, or 
 to sit on in carriages. 
 
 J! !l )) l> 
 
 Camels' hair worked over a cotton ground. 
 Used by Chinese for rolling up their 
 bedding in, or for spreading it upon 
 when travelling. The design, a wild goose, 
 is the emblem of conjugal fidelity and 
 affection, an image of which is wor- 
 shipped by newly-married couples. 
 
 Goats' hair worked over a cotton ground. 
 Of various colours and designs. Same 
 use as the above. 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
34 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ABTTCLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 288 
 
 S Rugs. 
 
 289 
 290 
 291 
 292 
 293 
 294 
 295 
 296 
 297 
 298 
 299 
 300 
 301 
 302 
 303 
 304 
 
 Bug. 
 
 Carpet 
 
 1 piece Carpeting . 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 1 » 
 
 3M§S 
 
 » -i 
 
 I 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow 
 
 Shensi, Hanchung 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 5> 55 
 
 » » 
 
 JJ 5> 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 35 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hh.Tfs. 
 
 Length. 
 
 S 6 s 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS, 
 
 UM »I 
 
 wmm*¥ 
 
 m 
 
 mi 
 
 ? piece. 
 
 1.47 
 
 i piece. 
 
 1.06 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 1-59 
 36.61 
 
 p chang. 
 0.30 
 
 O.30 
 
 0.33 
 0.26 
 O.I8 
 
 0.39 
 O.42 
 O.42 
 O.42 
 O.42 
 O.42 
 O.I6 
 
 I.67 
 1.23 
 I.I7 
 
 26.92 
 
 f chang 
 0.22 
 
 0.22 
 
 O.24 
 
 O.19 
 
 O.13 
 
 O.29 
 
 O.3I 
 
 O.3I 
 
 O.3I 
 
 0.3I 
 
 O.31 
 
 O.I2 
 
 056 
 
 3 7 
 
 o 3 1 
 o 3 1 
 o 3 1 
 120 
 
 5 2 
 
 5 2 
 
 5 2 
 
 12 o 
 
 1 oj 
 
 I o 
 
 I li 
 
 1 of 
 
 I of 
 
 1 of 
 
 I I* 
 
 I I 
 
 o 8f 
 
 These differ from the preceding in the 
 design being painted instead of partly 
 woven through. The figuring is done by 
 hand over a stencilled outline. The 
 various designs as depicted on these rugs 
 would baffle the descriptive power of a 
 naturalist; and to reconcile the names as 
 given by the manufacturers with the 
 forms they are supposed to represent, it 
 is necessary to imagine such forms as 
 being reflected from the convex surface of 
 a spoon. The principal designs attempted 
 are supposed to represent the wild goose ; 
 the stork, the emblem of longevity ; the 
 phcenix, the emblem of the Empress 
 (applied to her poetically as incompar- 
 able) ; and the lion, which is supposed 
 to be a felicitous animal, and used in 
 wedding decorations and presents. 
 
 Used for spreading bedding on or rolling up 
 the same. Red. 
 
 Same as the above. Pinkish-white. 
 Same as the above. Grey. 
 Wool over a cotton ground. 
 All cotton. Various colours. 
 
 All cotton. Various colours. Very coarse. 
 
 All cotton. Blue and white. 
 
36 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 piece Carpeting . 
 
 3 Rugs 
 
 Towelling, 1 length (10 pieces) 
 » 1 » (10 ., ) 
 
 mm® & 
 
 j> )) 
 
 mm 
 
 Honan, Nanyang . . 
 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang ... 
 
 Honan, Nanyang .. 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow. . . 
 Honan, Kuanghua 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai.. 
 
 -The above carpeting (Nos. 293-322) may be made in any lengths or sizes. Being used almost 
 
 which condition 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 37 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 fait ifli 
 
 m mm 
 
 mm it pi 
 
 >> >> 
 
 \m mm 
 ma %& 
 
 55 55 
 
 f m m 
 
 $ cliang. 
 O.42 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.54 
 0.54 
 0.49 
 0.50 
 o.54 
 0.54 
 0.42 
 0.42 
 0.42 
 0.42 
 0.52 
 0.30 
 0.15 
 0.15 
 0.31 
 0.31 
 
 f piece. 
 I.47 
 
 O.67 
 
 O.59 
 
 Hength. 
 O.46 
 
 O.46 
 
 f cliang. 
 O.31 
 
 O.40 
 
 O.40 
 
 O.40 
 
 O.36 
 
 0.37 
 O.4O 
 O.40 
 O.31 
 O.3I 
 0.3I 
 0.3I 
 O.38 
 0.22 
 O.I I 
 O.I I 
 
 0.23 
 0.23 
 
 ft piece. 
 I.06 
 
 O.49 
 
 0-43 
 
 $ length. 
 0.34 
 
 0.34 
 
 056 
 047 
 
 4 5 
 
 1 5 o 
 
 1 5 5 
 
 1 i| 
 
 1 1 
 
 ° 9i 
 
 I o 
 
 I ll 
 
 1 o\ 
 
 1 o| 
 
 I o 
 
 I 2 
 
 I 2 
 
 I 2 
 
 I 2 
 
 1 *l 
 
 1 O 
 
 o 9 
 
 o 9 
 
 O 9 
 
 9 
 
 3 7 
 
 3 o 
 
 2 7 
 o 8 
 
 o 9 
 
 All cotton. Blue and white. 
 All cotton. Various colours. 
 
 All cotton. Various colours. Very coarse. 
 
 All cotton. Various colours. Partly stamped. 
 
 Cotton and wool. Stamped colours. 
 
 The same as No. 288. 
 
 Pelt. For wrapping up bedding. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 White figures on blue ground. 
 
 Blue figures on white ground. 
 
 solely as rugs to spread bedding on, it is cut into 
 it is sold. 
 
 suitable lengths, and four pieces stitched together, in 
 
3S 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 328 
 
 329 
 330 
 331 
 332 
 
 333 
 334 
 335 
 336 
 337 
 338 
 339 
 340 
 341 
 342 
 343 
 344 
 345 
 
 346 
 347 
 348 
 349 
 
 Towelling, 1 length 
 
 Waist Sash 
 
 10 pieces) 
 
 4 » ) 
 
 4 » ) 
 
 10 „ ) 
 
 10 „ ) 
 
 ) 
 
 (10 » ) 
 
 w> 
 
 & 
 
 
 6 
 
 & 
 
 tt^rti& 
 
 
 
 
 \m 
 
 m& 
 
 & 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai, 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Note. — The term Kaoli, or Corean, by which the absve variety of Towels (Nos. 326-335) is known, is 
 

 CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 39 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 
 Gold $. 
 
 Kli.Tts. 
 
 5b 
 
 1 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 S 
 
 eS 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 um±m 
 
 $ length. 
 O.46 
 
 $ length. 
 0.34 
 
 I 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Blue figures on white ground. 
 
 
 55 )> 
 
 O.46 
 
 0.34 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 ,» 
 
 
 M » 
 
 O.23 
 
 O.17 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 8| 
 
 Blue figures on white ground. Woven with 
 double yarn. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.39 
 
 O.29 
 
 I 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 Blue. 
 
 
 » 55 
 
 O.42 
 
 O.3I 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 9 
 
 Blue figures on white ground. 
 
 
 55 35 
 
 O.3I 
 
 O.23 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 S 
 
 9 
 
 White. 
 
 
 33 J5 
 
 O.30 
 
 0.22 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 » 
 
 
 35 33 
 
 0.22 
 
 O.I6 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 ... 
 
 » 
 
 
 » 33 
 
 0.31 
 
 O.23 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 1 3 
 
 White. Woven with double yarn. 
 
 
 53 55 
 
 O.25 
 
 O.I8 
 
 I 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 1 2 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.I8 
 
 O.I3 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 8| 
 
 » ., 
 
 
 mtc mm 
 
 O.I6 
 
 O.I2 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 White. 
 
 
 55 ii 
 
 O.26 
 
 0.I9 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Blue and white stripes. 
 
 
 55 35 
 
 O.I2 
 
 O.I I 
 
 I 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Blue mottled. 
 
 
 tt«±j» 
 
 O.4I 
 
 O.30 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 7§ 
 
 Blue and white stripes. 
 
 
 55 53 
 
 O.I8 
 
 O.I3 
 
 O 
 
 8 
 
 S 
 
 8 
 
 Blue. 
 
 
 35 55 
 
 O.15 
 
 O.I I 
 
 O 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 6§ 
 
 White. 
 
 
 55 33 
 
 O.28 
 
 0.21 
 
 I 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 8J 
 
 White. Cut into suitable pieces when used 
 for towellings ; used also in the manufac- 
 ture of beancurd. 
 
 
 mtt mm 
 
 0.34 
 
 ^ piece. 
 O.30 
 
 0.25 
 
 $ piece. 
 0.22 
 
 I 
 I 
 
 5 
 4 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 7i 
 6 
 
 Blue and white. 
 Blue. 
 
 
 55 33 
 
 O.30 
 
 0.22 
 
 O 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 Blue and white. 
 
 
 S» 55 
 
 O.30 
 
 0.22 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6| 
 
 White. 
 
 applied probably through it being an imitation of a similar material manufactured in the Hermit Kingdom. 
 
40 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 350 
 351 
 352 
 353 
 354 
 355 
 
 356 
 357 
 358 
 359 
 360 
 361 
 
 362 
 
 363 
 364 
 
 365 
 366 
 
 367 
 368 
 369 
 
 Waist Sash 
 
 Bed Curtain 
 
 Bed Curtain Top 
 
 5) )) 
 
 13 Bed Curtain Hangings. 
 4 » >> )> 
 
 5 Table-covers 
 
 Table-cover 
 
 >) )> 
 
 )> )> 
 
 » » 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 ■££ 
 
 
 )5 )) 
 
 It )) 
 
 wmwm 
 
 11 )> 
 
 „ ^ 
 
 &£ 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Soochow 
 
 )> )> 
 
 » )J 
 
 )) )> 
 
 Shensi, Hanchung 
 
 11 ■>■> 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 41 
 
 Province and Town 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Length. 
 
 o o h 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 m mm 
 
 0.30 
 0.30 
 0.30 
 0.31 
 O.I2 
 1.88 
 
 1.63 
 1.76 
 1.01 
 0.60 
 0.67 
 0.15 
 
 )) » 
 
 m m* 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.06 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.06 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 O.S4 
 
 0.40 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 O.S4 
 
 0.40 
 
 1.09 
 
 0.80 
 
 0.84 
 
 0.62 
 
 160 
 140 
 o 7 5 
 
 ' piece, 
 
 0.22 i 6 o 
 
 0.22 ! 1 5 5 
 
 0.22 
 
 0.23 
 
 0.09 
 
 i-33 
 
 1.20 
 1.30 
 0.74 
 0.44 
 0.49 
 0.1 1 
 
 o 6| 
 
 o 1\ 
 
 o t\ 
 
 o 5 
 
 o Si 
 
 050 
 
 050 
 
 042 
 
 044 
 026 
 
 026 
 
 2 5 
 
 2 5 
 
 2 8 
 
 2 8 
 
 2 6 
 2 6 
 
 Black. 
 Pink. 
 Green. 
 Blue. 
 
 White with blue figures. 
 
 White. 
 )> 
 
 n 
 
 Blue design stamped on white ground. 
 
 Stamped design. Used to ornament the 
 front of bed curtains, and hung lengthwise 
 at the top. 
 
 Foreign cotton brocades ; stencilled design. 
 For same use as the above. 
 
 Foreign shirtings. The same as the above. 
 
 Felt. Goats' hair and cotton. Red and 
 yellow. Sold by the piece, which makes 
 two covers. The design on one side is 
 for chess. 
 
 Of same material as the above. Blue. 
 Used by tailors for spreading on their 
 working table, around which they sit. 
 
 Red. Same as the preceding, but also used 
 for spreading on floor when the New Tear 
 or ceremonial prostrations, called the 
 k'ou-t'ou, have to be gone through. 
 
 White. Used as No. 365. 
 Red. Felt. 
 Blue. Felt. 
 
42 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in Chinese. Name in English. 
 
 370 
 
 371 
 372 
 
 373 
 
 374 
 375 
 
 9 Clothes Wrappers . 
 
 3 » » 
 Cord 
 
 20 Cue Cords 
 
 376 
 377 
 378 
 379 
 380 
 381 
 382 
 383 
 
 384 
 385 
 386 
 
 IS » » 
 
 20 „ „ 
 
 13 Waist Cords 
 
 5 „ Bands 
 
 5 )> 5) 
 
 13 » » 
 
 3 5> 55 
 
 i pair Ankle Bands 
 
 9 parrs „ 
 
 21 
 
 tm^m$ 
 
 
 
 
 Hfi 
 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 Kiangsu, Soochow 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang , 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow. 
 Chihli, Tientsin.... 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 43 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 .A roer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk. Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 "Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 m mm 
 
 55 55 
 
 5) 55 
 
 us k& 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.29 
 
 Apiece. 
 
 O.19 
 
 <8> piece. 
 O.61 
 
 O.29 
 
 £ ca«2/. 
 
 2.42 
 I.67 
 
 0.57 
 1-65 
 °-33 
 
 O.I2 
 O.I2 
 1.38 
 O.46 
 O.07 
 
 0.08 
 O.67 
 I.07 
 
 0.2I 
 
 Apiece. 
 
 0.I4 
 
 SIP piece. 
 O.45 
 
 0.21 
 
 $ catty. 
 
 1.78 
 
 $ ca%. 
 
 1.23 
 
 O.42 
 1.22 
 O.24 
 O.09 
 O.09 
 I.02 
 
 0.34 
 O.05 
 
 O.06 
 O.49 
 O.79 
 
 O29 
 
 3 5 
 
 2 9 
 
 o \\ 
 
 o ii 
 
 Stamped design. Used for wrapping up 
 cloth articles. Stamped in four lengths 
 and stitched together. 
 
 The same as the preceding, but of coarser 
 material. 
 
 Of different sizes and colours. The manu- 
 facture of this cord is confined to women 
 and children, and the cost of labour is 
 $0.10 per catty. 
 
 This quality is made only in the two colours 
 shown, blue and white, and is sold in 
 lengths of 14 ch'ili; it is used for tying 
 up bedding. 
 
 Of various colours. The cost of labour is 
 $0.94 per catty. 
 
 The blue is a lesser mourning than the 
 white, which is deep. Used for fastening 
 the ends of cues, or pig-tails, which are 
 plaited. The cue coiffiwe is peculiar to 
 this dynasty, and was introduced 260 
 years ago. 
 
 For same use as the preceding. 
 Same as the above, but black. 
 
 Mixture of brown and white cotton. 
 
 White. 
 
 Blue and white. 
 
 Mixture of foreign and Chinese yam. 
 
 For binding around socks when the trousers 
 are tucked in, or simply binding the top 
 of socks to give a neat appearance. Made 
 from foreign yarn. White. 
 
 Blue and white. Same as the above. 
 Variegated. Same as the above. 
 Same as the above. 
 
44 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 AETICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 387 
 
 388 
 389 
 
 390 
 391 
 392 
 393 
 394 
 395 
 396 
 397 
 398 
 399 
 400 
 401 
 402 
 403 
 404 
 405 
 
 406 
 407 
 
 7 pairs Ankle Bands 
 
 3 J) 5) » 
 
 Braid 
 
 9 rolls Tape 
 9 » » 
 6 „ „ 
 
 25 >) )) 
 2 >) j) 
 12 jj „ 
 
 1 >j >) 
 1 piece „ 
 9 pieces „ 
 Tape 
 
 39 pieces Fancy Trimmings. 
 
 *5 )> )5 J' 
 
 Lampwick 
 
 w&& 
 
 
 *tt^ 
 
 
 & 
 
 »*$&\ 
 ^#^ 
 
 
 Ohihli, Tientsin. 
 
 3) J» •■•••• 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow... 
 „ T'ungchow 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo., 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 45 
 
 Province and Town 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 «* mm 
 
 Sfft WM 
 
 Ift ^H 
 
 » » 
 
 0.35 
 
 2.69 
 
 I? catty. 
 O.68 
 O.48 
 1.25 
 2.58 
 0.26 
 O.63 
 O.IO 
 O.I2 
 O.26 
 
 O.03 
 
 3 2 ctoi# 
 
 O.04 
 
 J 2 chang 
 
 O.03 
 
 3 2 eftaw? 
 
 O.88 
 
 B> catty. 
 
 O.64 
 
 £ catty. 
 
 I.02 
 
 £ catty. 
 O.30 
 
 P piece. 
 
 O.07 
 
 O.41 
 
 $ catty. 
 
 O.26 
 
 O.08 
 
 I.98 
 
 $> catty 
 
 O.50 
 
 0-3S 
 O.92 
 I.90 
 O.I9 
 O.46 
 O.07 
 O.O9 
 O.I9 
 
 0.02 
 
 3 2 chang 
 O.03 
 
 ' 2 chang 
 0.02 
 
 ! 2 chang 
 O.65 
 
 3 catty. 
 O.47 
 
 f? catty. 
 
 0.75 
 
 f? catty. 
 0.2I 
 
 3 piece. 
 
 O.05 
 
 O.30 
 
 $ catty. 
 
 O Oft 
 
 For fastening trousers at the ankle. Called 
 the "shou character hand," as the figure 
 in the pattern is the word shou, or old 
 age. Foreign yarn. 
 
 For the same use as the ahove. 
 
 Various colours. 
 
 Each roll measures 32 ch'ih. 
 Each roll measures 24 ch'ih. 
 
 Each roll measures 40 ch'ih. Used for 
 binding the dwarfed feet of women. 
 
 Bach roll measures 20 ch'ih. Used as the 
 above. 
 
 Each roll measures 28 ch'ih. 
 
 Each roll measures 15 ch'ih. 
 
 Measures 19 ch'ih. 
 
 Variegated. For binding dwarfed feet. 
 
 Same use as the above. 
 
 Blue and white. Sold by the chi, or length, 
 measuring 36 ch'ih. 
 
 Various colours. Same as the above. 
 
 Various colours. Sold by the chi, or length, 
 measuring 24 ch'ih. 
 
 Woven from English cotton yarn. The 
 gloss is given by calendering between 
 heavy stones. Of various patterns. Used 
 for ornamenting the clothing of women. 
 Each piece measures 48 ch'ih. 
 
 Narrower than the preceding ; otherwise the 
 same. Each piece 36 ch'ih. 
 
4 6 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 408 
 409 
 410 
 411 
 412 
 413 
 414 
 415 
 416 
 417 
 418 
 
 419 
 420 
 421 
 422 
 423 
 
 Laropwick ... 
 Cotton Yarn , 
 Thread 
 
 Cobblers' Cord 
 
 Artificial Cloth Flowers 
 
 424 
 425 
 426 
 427 
 
 1 piece Lining for Bed Quilt . . 
 1 » m » 
 
 I J) 5J » 
 
 Bed Quilt with Cotton Lining 
 5 Bed Quilts 
 
 3 pieces Lining for Bed Quilt. 
 
 1 » » » 
 
 Bed Quilt 
 
 
 
 mmm& 
 
 nrnm 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 HEIR 6 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
CATALOGUE OP THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 47 
 
 Pbovince and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 um ±\ 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 55 55 
 
 S94&8 
 
 0.41 
 
 $ catty. 
 41.OO 
 
 4I.OO 
 
 ■P picw?, 
 48.OO 
 $ pieirf, 
 54.OO 
 
 54.00 
 
 41.00 
 
 ^picul. 
 I.36 
 
 COS 
 $ pair. 
 
 O.05 
 
 $ piece, 
 
 I.25 
 O.76 
 0.95 
 2.00 
 
 I.44 
 
 P piece. 
 
 2.82 
 O.97 
 4.85 
 473 
 
 O.30 
 
 $ catty, 
 
 30.OO 
 
 $ picisJ. 
 30.OO 
 $ picwZ, 
 3S.OO 
 3£ picul. 
 40.OO 
 $ picul. 
 40.OO 
 $picul. 
 
 30.OO 
 
 ul 
 
 1. 00 
 
 i) catty. 
 
 O.04 
 $f pair. 
 
 O.04 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 O.92 
 O.56 
 O.70 
 1.47 
 
 I.06 
 
 P piece. 
 
 2.08 
 0.71 
 
 3-57 
 348 
 
 White. 
 
 White. Sold in skeins. 
 
 Blue. Sold in skeins. 
 
 Various colours. Sold in skeins. Coloured 
 with aniline dyes. 
 
 Foreign yarn, native dyed. 
 
 Used for stitching the soles of boots and 
 shoes. 
 
 For decorative purposes. 
 
 For the hair ; used by women. 
 
 For encircling the knob of hair at the back 
 of the head. This style of dressing the 
 hair is peculiar to the women of Kiangsu, 
 and to a certain class of women of 
 Kwangtung. 
 
 Sold by weight. This is encased in either 
 a cloth or silk covering. 
 
 Of inferior cotton to the preceding. 
 
 Brown cotton. 
 
 Covered with printed cloth. 
 
 These are filled with the cotton lining 
 described above. Cloth of the pattern 
 of which these quilts are made is not to 
 be obtained in cloth stores. It is woven 
 at homesteads for the sole purpose of 
 making bed quilts. The labour makes it 
 too expensive for those who use native 
 cloth, and silk or foreign material is 
 preferred by those who can afford it. 
 
 Differs from the preceding in not being 
 threaded. 
 
 Green Spanish stripes ; silk embroidered. 
 Red Spanish stripes ; silk embroidered. 
 
4 8 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. Name in English. 
 
 Bed Quilt 
 
 tm&wm 
 
 >, &£#** 
 
 mm 
 
 Winter Outfit for Gentleman of Literary 
 Class (middle station), 14 pieces. 
 
 Summer Outfit for Gentleman of Li- 
 terary Class (middle station), 8 
 pieces. 
 
 Autumn Outfit for Gentleman of Li- 
 terary Class (middle station), 9 
 pieces. 
 
 Winter Outfit for Gentleman of Mer- 
 cantile Class (middle station), 14 
 pieces. 
 
 Summer Outfit for Gentleman of Mer- 
 cantile Class (middle station), 7 
 pieces. 
 
 fPEffitfc 
 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang , 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 49 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 i4b mm 
 
 )5 » 
 
 » J? 
 
 ^ 
 
 4-53 
 3-68 
 
 2.47 
 
 6.70 
 31-73 
 49-57 
 
 5-7i 
 
 3-33 
 2.71 
 1.82 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2.42 
 
 1.78 
 
 3-83 
 
 2.82 
 
 3-43 
 
 2.52 
 
 2.83 
 
 2.08 
 
 4-57 
 
 3-4i 
 
 1.80 
 
 1-33 
 
 1.60 
 
 1. 18 
 
 1.26 
 
 0-93 
 
 I.3I 
 
 0.96 
 
 56.21 
 
 41-33 
 
 4-93 
 23-33 
 
 36.45 
 4.20 
 
 Red Spanish stripes ; silk embroidered. 
 
 Red Spanish stripes, with silk embroidered 
 trimming. A Chinese bed is ' ' made " 
 by folding the quilt lengthwise and laying 
 it at the back of the bed, which is in- 
 variably placed against a wall. The 
 trimming which ornaments it is meant 
 to show it off when so folded. 
 
 Red long ells, with silk embroidered trim- 
 ming. 
 
 Green long ells, with velvet and silk rib- 
 bon trimming. 
 
 Black satin, with silk embroidered trimming. 
 
 Red silk, with silk embroidered trimming. 
 
 Blue silk, with silk embroidered trimming. 
 
 The figured silk with which this quilt is 
 faced is manufactured at Kingehow, a 
 large commercial town in Hupeh, and is 
 used exclusively for bed coverlets. 
 
 Blue cotton, with white figuring stamped. 
 Same as the above. 
 
 Coarse cloth, made from brown cotton. 
 
SO 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Autumn Outfit for Gentleman of Mer- 
 cantile Class (middle station), 9 
 pieces. 
 
 Winter Outfit for a Farmer (middle 
 station), 14 pieces. 
 
 Summer Outfit for a Farmer (middle 
 station), 3 pieces. 
 
 Autumn Outfit for a Farmer (middle 
 station), 5 pieces. 
 
 
 MR 
 
 7& 
 
 W8. 
 
 Bamboo Jacket... 
 
 „ Vest 
 
 „ Jacket... 
 Man's Trousers ..., 
 
 „ Apron 
 
 ,. Long Coat. 
 
 Jacket , 
 
 Long Coat. 
 
 Jacket . . . 
 Trousers 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 mm 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo., 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 Rote. — The dress of the Chinese has been described as "commodious and graceful, combining all the 
 fashions change ; but so locally, so seldom, and so unstrikingly, that garments are handed 
 restrictions -which were at one time placed upon dress, by which the use of silk was limited 
 government of the present dynasty not been enforced ; though the use of certain colours is 
 for sere garments and for burying the dead in ; and its use by Buddhist priests is also 
 appropriated by the literati ; and of this colour are officials gowns made, which bear the insignia 
 usurped by Chinese in the employ of foreigners at the Treaty Ports, and passed unnoticed, 
 gentler sex is under the same laws which control that of the men, and seldom can a sight 
 husbands; splendid in the rich silks, costly furs, brilliant colours, and beautiful embroidery 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 51 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Anier. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Length. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 &j§ ±m 
 
 m& mm 
 
 m&$ 
 
 m 
 
 26.52 
 
 8.61 
 
 1.59 
 
 4.76 
 
 19.50 
 
 6-33 
 
 1.17 
 
 3-So 
 
 0.90 
 
 O.66 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.43 
 
 0.64 
 
 O.47 
 
 3-17 
 
 2 -33 
 
 1. 18 
 
 0.87 
 
 1.32 
 
 0.97 
 
 1.36 
 
 1. 00 
 
 1.41 
 
 1.04 
 
 1.18 
 
 0.87 
 
 0.88 
 
 0.65 
 
 0.96 
 
 0.71 
 
 1.21 
 
 0.89 
 
 I.06 
 
 0.78 
 
 1.22 
 
 0.90 
 
 Used by boatmen and coolies. Peculiar to 
 
 Ningpo. 
 Used by boatmen. Peculiar to Ningpo. 
 
 purposes of warmth, beauty, and ease." Though the present style has been in existence for centuries, 
 down from generation to generation, and worn without the fear of exhibiting obsolete raiment. The 
 to the literati, and the infringement of which law was dealt with as a misdemeanour, have during the 
 still guarded by statutes. Yellow, recognised as the Imperial colour, may be used only by the multitude 
 permitted, though the privilege subjects them to the ridicule of the educated. Deep purple is 
 of rank, an embroidered badge on the breast and back. Though the wearing of this colour is often 
 such an infringement would not be tolerated at any of the provincial capitals. The dress of the 
 more gay be seen than a company of ladies attired in the paraphernalia which pertain to the rank of their 
 that adorn them. 
 
52 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Man's Leggings... 
 Long Coat. 
 
 » 5) 
 
 Jacket .. 
 
 » 
 
 Trousers . 
 
 Leggings 
 
 Vest 
 
 Mourning Coat. 
 
 5) 
 5) 
 
 ^M\ 
 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 -The laws which govern the rites and practices observed in mourning in China are severe in the 
 or if an official, to denouncement to the Throne, terminating in dismissal, degradation, or 
 being the most diffuse. An elder "brother wears a lesser degree of mourning for a younger 
 indications of his loss. On the death of a parent the mourning is donned in seven days, which 
 mean 27 months, no silks nor satins nor red garments must be worn. The garment here 
 mourning, which lasts from 49 to 60 days from the day of decease. Ordinary mourning is made 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 S3 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk. Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 £ 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 flffi-M 
 
 O.41 
 
 O.3O 
 
 
 
 
 
 » j> 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.43 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 2.84 
 
 2.09 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 )) » 
 
 I.63 
 
 1. 21 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 - 
 
 
 » V 
 
 1.85 
 
 I.36 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 1.26 
 
 0.93 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 I.60 
 
 I.I8 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 }> )) 
 
 I.4I 
 
 I.04 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 )) )5 
 
 O.97 
 
 O.7I 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 J» » 
 
 1-75 
 
 1. 19 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 5> )5 
 
 0.41 
 
 O.30 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 
 >J J> 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.37 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.61 
 
 O.45 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 )> » 
 
 0.33 
 
 O.24 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » }> 
 
 0.34 
 
 O.25 
 
 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.31 
 
 0.23 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » J> 
 
 0.15 
 
 O.I I 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.43 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 
 » )) 
 
 0.56 
 
 O.4I 
 
 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.41 
 
 O.3O 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 J» 5J 
 
 0.34 
 
 O.25 
 
 
 
 The ends are slipped under the waist sash. 
 
 
 }> )> 
 
 0.45 
 
 °-33 
 
 
 
 
 extreme, an omission of a trivial nature subjecting the delinquent to the contempt of his neighbours, 
 amercement. Observances differ according to kindred or seniority, those following the death of a parent 
 than the latter would for the former ; while for a wife the husband is not expected to exhibit any 
 is immediately after the completion of the first rites ; and for three years, which is understood to 
 exhibited is not so often worn as those made of sackcloth, and is only used during the period of intense 
 in the same style as everyday clothing, but in suitable material and colours. 
 
54 
 
 NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Pkoduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Soldier's Uniform, Coat and Trousers. 
 
 Woman's Jacket . . 
 Trousers. 
 
 Jacket. . . 
 Trousers. 
 Jacket... 
 Trousers. 
 Jacket. . . , 
 Trousers. 
 Jacket... 
 Trousers. 
 Jacket... 
 Trousers. 
 Jacket..., 
 Trousers. 
 Jacket,... 
 Trousers. 
 Skirt .... 
 Jacket... 
 
 
 -mm. 
 
 » If 
 
 » mm 
 
 #>& 
 
 Trousers ! „ ^|f 
 
 Jacket „ ^^>5 
 
 „ ! » W% 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang , 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 55 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tti. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 d s 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 si* mm 
 
 I.64 
 
 I.20 
 
 
 
 The writing on the breast and back shows 
 the command and camp to which he 
 belongs. 
 
 
 >) )) 
 
 O.79 
 
 0.58 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 5) 
 
 O.86 
 
 O.63 
 
 
 
 
 
 > 55 55 
 
 1.52 
 
 1. 12 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 5) 
 
 0.34 
 
 O.25 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.97 
 
 O.7I 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.56 
 
 O.4I 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 I.OI 
 
 O.74 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.4I 
 
 O.3O 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.95 
 
 O.70 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.48 
 
 o-3S 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.56 
 
 0.41 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.33 
 
 0.24 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 I.26 
 
 o.93 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.68 
 
 0.50 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.46 
 
 o.34 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.97 
 
 0.71 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 I.64 
 
 1.20 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1. 12 
 
 0.82 
 
 
 
 Sleeveless. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.86 
 
 0.63 
 
 
 
 
 
 35 55 
 
 1. 12 
 
 0.82 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.80 
 
 o.59 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.86 
 
 0.63 
 
 
 
 
56 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Pboduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 510 
 511 
 512 
 513 
 514 
 515 
 516 
 517 
 518 
 519 
 520 
 521 
 522 
 523 
 524 
 525 
 526 
 527 
 528 
 529 
 530 
 531 
 532 
 533 
 
 Woman's Jacket . . . 
 „ Trousers 
 „ Jacket . . . 
 „ Trousers , 
 „ Jacket... 
 
 „ Trousers , 
 
 „ Mourning Skirt 
 
 „ „ Long Jacket 
 
 3 pairs Woman's Leggings , 
 
 3 suits Girl's Clothing 
 
 1 4 pairs Woman's Socks 
 
 12 „ Child's Stockings 
 
 1 pair Soldier's „ 
 
 3 pairs Man's 
 
 3 » 
 
 4 „ 
 
 6 „ 
 
 Soles . 
 
 Socks . 
 
 Stockings 
 
 6 Man's Coat Collars 
 
 1 pair Ear Covers 
 
 
 
 m & 
 
 BD J 
 
 » mz 
 
 n mm 
 
 >h®m 
 
 tm 
 
 >j 
 
 mm 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 57 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 6 £ 
 
 REMABKS. 
 
 
 m mm 
 
 I.67 
 
 I.23 
 
 
 
 
 
 )> » 
 
 1. 12 
 
 O.82 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1.63 
 
 I.20 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 )) 
 
 1.47 
 
 I.IO 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 2.83 
 
 2.08 
 
 ... 
 
 
 Lined with imitation lambs' skin. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 i-35 
 
 O.99 
 
 ... 
 
 ■ ••• 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 I.IO 
 
 O.8I 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.46 
 
 0.34 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 5) )) 
 
 o.35 
 
 O.26 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.38 
 
 0.28 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.76 
 
 0.56 
 
 
 
 
 
 )) 55 
 
 2-53 
 
 1.86 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 )) 
 
 0.58 
 
 0.43 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1.51 
 
 1. 11 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.26 
 
 0.19 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.72 
 
 o-S3 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.56 
 
 0.41 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 
 )) )) 
 
 0.98 
 
 0.72 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 )) 
 
 0.26 
 
 0.19 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 um ±m 
 
 0.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Embroidered seam. The style is peculiar 
 to Peking and thereabouts. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.87 
 
 0.64 
 
 
 
 Same style as the preceding. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 
 
 Stitched to the inside of the coat and worn 
 erect. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.14 
 
 O.IO 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
58 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place op Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 534 
 535 
 536 
 537 
 538 
 539 
 540 
 541 
 542 
 543 
 
 544 
 
 545 
 546 
 547 
 548 
 549 
 550 
 551 
 552 
 553 
 554 
 555 
 
 Man's Winter Hood , 
 
 12 pairs Woman's Socks 
 
 2 „ Child's Stockings 
 
 2 pairs Woman's Knee Trousers. 
 
 4 Woman's Stomachers 
 
 Child's Jacket 
 
 » Bib 
 
 2 pairs Soldier's Gaiters 
 
 4 Woman's Head Wrappers 
 
 5 „ Fillets 
 
 Girl's Fillet. 
 
 2 Woman's Fillets 
 
 5 )> 5) 
 
 2 „ Stomachers . 
 pair Man's Boots 
 
 5» )5 J> 
 
 „ „ Shoes 
 
 kwm 
 
 mm 
 
 k&m 
 
 km 
 
 kwm 
 
 A"! 
 
 )> 
 
 mm 
 
 ism 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 
 m » 
 
 mm 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . 
 Chekiang, Ningpo. 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 59 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 § a* * 
 
 >« r<5 ,01 
 
 O O bn 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 &M ±°B 
 
 mm 
 
 m 
 
 0.54 
 0.80 
 
 0.34 
 0.20 
 0.41 
 0.23 
 0.16 
 
 0.34 
 0.27 
 
 I.OI 
 
 0.40 
 0.59 
 0.25 
 0.15 
 0.30 
 0.17 
 0.12 
 0.25 
 0.20 
 0.74 
 
 0.15 
 
 0.22 
 
 0.16 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 O.I I 
 
 0.08 
 
 0.80 
 
 0.59 
 
 1. 10 
 
 0.81 
 
 0.92 
 
 0.68 
 
 1-35 
 
 0.99 
 
 i-35 
 
 0.99 
 
 0.57 
 
 0.42 
 
 o.34 
 
 0.25 
 
 0.30 
 
 0.22 
 
 Fastened to the leg by garters and exposed 
 below the outer trousers and skirt. 
 
 Suspended from a cord passing round the 
 neck, and worn innermost. 
 
 Bound round the head during cold weather. 
 Used only by the common people. 
 
 This shape is only worn by married women. 
 Those exhibited are for mourning, as 
 those in use are usually of silk or foreign 
 material, and, among wealthy people, are 
 studded with pearls and ornamented with 
 gold. 
 
 This shape is only worn by unmarried 
 women. Like the preceding, the costliness 
 depends on the means of the wearer. 
 
 Like No. 543, but more ornamented. 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 Same as No. 538, but with pocket attached. 
 
 Official. 
 
 Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 
 
 Official mourning. 
 
 For burying the dead in. 
 
 Satin ; lined and wadded. 
 
 Wadded. 
 
 Worn by the labouring class when in their 
 "best." 
 
 The same. 
 
6o 
 
 NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ABTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 pair Man's Shoes 
 
 Boots 
 
 Shoes 
 
 mm 
 
 m%m 
 
 mm 
 
 mmm 
 
 mm 
 
 m^m 
 
 » 
 mwm 
 m&m 
 m$sm 
 
 » 
 mm 
 
 m^m 
 
 m^ 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . , 
 
 Kiangsu, Chinkiang 
 „ Shanghai 
 
 Chihli, Tientsin .... 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 6l 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TtS. 
 
 Length. 
 
 EEMARKS. 
 
 mm i 
 
 rci 
 
 
 WM Jim 
 
 0.34 
 0.30 
 0.48 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.53 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.68 
 0.63 
 O.S7 
 
 1.26 
 
 1. 12 
 
 1.51 
 
 0.62 
 
 I.OI 
 
 0.76 
 0.76 
 
 0.9s 
 0.95 
 0.54 
 
 0.46 
 0.42 
 
 0.84 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.48 
 
 0.25 
 0.22 
 
 0.35 
 
 0.40 
 o-39 
 o.37 
 0.50 
 0.46 
 0.42 
 
 o.93 
 0.82 
 1. 11 
 0.46 
 0.74 
 0.56 
 0.56 
 0.70 
 0.70 
 0.40 
 
 o.34 
 0.31 
 0.62 
 0.31 
 o-3S 
 
 The same. 
 
 Worn by the same class in mourning. 
 
 Mourning. 
 
 Mourning. 
 
 Coil' and leather soles. For wet weather. 
 Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 
 
 Official mourning. 
 
 Cavalry boots. 
 
 The same. 
 
 Wadded. Mourning. 
 
 The same. 
 
 The same, but figured. 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
62 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place or Peoduction- 
 
 Naine in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 pair Man's Shoes 
 
 >? » » 
 
 5> » J5 
 
 » )> )> 
 
 Boots 
 
 tf#« 
 
 
 Chihli, Tientsin 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 5J » 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo., 
 
 » » . •■ 
 
 5} » •• 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 63 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 6 - .T 
 
 -a r=a jo 
 o o Eh 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Hit 3c?t 
 
 an ±w 
 
 m& m« 
 
 0.76 
 0.76 
 0.76 
 0.76 
 0.76 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.72 
 0.84 
 0.50 
 0.50 
 0.50 
 0.68 
 0.46 
 0.46 
 0.46 
 0.46 
 0.46 
 0.46 
 0.76 
 0.27 
 0.58 
 
 0.53 
 0.83 
 
 0.56 
 0.56 
 0.56 
 0.56 
 0.56 
 
 o-S3 
 O.S3 
 o-53 
 0.62 
 
 o.37 
 o.37 
 o.37 
 0.50 
 
 o.34 
 o.34 
 o.34 
 o.34 
 o.34 
 o.34 
 0.56 
 0.20 
 0.43 
 0.39 
 0.61 
 
 Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 
 Wooden soles. For wet weather 
 Leather soles. For wet weather. 
 
 Cavalry hoots. 
 
6 4 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 i pair Man's Shoes 
 
 Boy's „ 
 
 Man's „ 
 2 pairs Man's Slippers , 
 
 32 „ Woman's Shoes 
 
 3 „ 
 
 4 „ 
 1 » 
 1 » 
 17 » 
 « » 
 3 » 
 1 „ 
 
 'Mrs 
 
 ■>■> 
 
 m-km 
 
 fi#m 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 
 » >) 
 
 Chihli, Tientsin 
 
 )> » 
 
 j> j> 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . , 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 
 Note. — The collection of shoes has been confined to those made of cloth, and as those made of native 
 tints in silk employed in the making of shoes worn by all who can afford to do so would have 
 floor of his house under his feet, instead of laying it on the ground ; and a wise precaution it 
 perforated covers, or stools, on which to rest their feet, the majority of houses have no covering 
 freezing point. The extreme stiffness of the .sole leaves room for much improvement ; and the 
 when he may do so. Sizes range from a maximum of 1 ch'ih (or 14 inches, English) to a,\ 
 heel on the upper. The designs are all recognised and bear well-known names, though it 
 are the "cumulus cloud," the layers which ornament the toe; the "old-age character," the 
 "butterfly pattern." 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 65 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 KEMARKS. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 
 Ts'un. 
 
 
 
 
 Witt tt» 
 
 O.03 
 
 0.02 
 
 
 
 Made of straw and cotton rags. Used by- 
 water-carriers and porters of the lowest 
 class. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.02 
 
 O.O I 
 
 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 
 
 mm Jim 
 
 O.76 
 
 0.56 
 
 ... 
 
 
 Mourning. 
 
 
 
 » 11 
 
 O.42 
 
 O.31 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.48 
 
 o-35 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 um ±m 
 
 O.49 
 
 0.36 
 
 
 
 Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 
 
 
 
 a ii 
 
 O.84 
 
 0.62 
 
 
 ... 
 
 For summer wear. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 0.37 
 
 $ pair. 
 
 0.27 
 
 $ pair. 
 
 
 
 All cloth. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.31 
 
 O.23 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Embroidered. 
 
 
 
 a ii 
 
 O.3I 
 
 O.23 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Embroidered mourning. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.23 
 
 O.I7 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Plain mourning. 
 
 
 
 )» a 
 
 O.23 
 
 O.I7 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Plain. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.50 
 
 0.37 
 
 
 
 Hob-nailed. For wet weather. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.42 
 
 O.3I 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 The same as the preceding. 
 
 
 
 « mm 
 
 0.20 
 
 O.I5 
 
 ... 
 
 
 Embroidered. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.I2 
 
 O.09 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Worn by poor working women. 
 
 
 
 mt « 
 
 O.23 
 
 O.17 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Embroidered. 
 
 
 
 ii ii 
 
 O.23 
 
 0.17 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Mourning. 
 
 
 cloth are seldom worn outside of mourning, it is consequently limited ; otherwise the various hues and 
 rendered this exhibit a far more pleasing sight. It has been tritely remarked that a Chinese carries the 
 is when one considers that, with the exception of the wealthy, who generally have charcoal pans with 
 on the ground ; and this in parts of the Empire where the thermometer falls 7.0 degrees (Fahrenheit) below 
 discomfort it occasions affords no better indication than the readiness with which a Chinese <*oes slipshod 
 ts un (or 6| inches). The measurement is not taken on the sole, but from the tip of the toe to 
 may appear that the fantastic figures owe their existence to individual caprice. The principal designs 
 embroidered ornament which is the word for "longevity," and is in the seal style of character- and the 
 
66 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 2 pairs Woman's Sleeping Slippers 
 1 piece Silk and Cotton Mixture 
 
 * }J » 5> 
 
 * >J » )> 
 1 » » » 
 
 1 JJ » » 
 
 1 » » »> 
 
 4 "Waist Bands 
 
 6 „ 
 
 8 „. 
 
 12 pairs Man's Garters 
 
 8 » jj ••••• 
 
 4 » » 
 
 3 Waist Bands.... 
 
 Belt 
 
 » ••• ••••••••••••• • •• 
 
 1 piece Imitation Lambs' Skin 
 
 1 << 11 ii ...... 
 
 
 $mis& 
 
 m 
 
 HI 
 
 SI 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo.. 
 „ Hangchow 
 
 Kwangtung, Kwang- 
 chow. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Shensi, Hanchung. 
 
 Hote, The practice of dwarfing or compressing the feet does not date back further than A.D. 950. As 
 
 absence of historical record, to decide which may be accepted as the most trustworthy. A desire 
 of an artificial method to become fashionable, are among the accepted explanations; while 
 at home, and point to the absence of afternoon teas as one of the common benefits arising 
 agricultural people the compression does not often exceed a slight distortion of the toes. 
 repeUent form. At the age of 5 or 6 the bandages are first used, and in two to four years 
 the shrieks and tears of the willing victim. Condemned from an age when girls of other 
 purifies their minds, the Chinese girl has to look enviously on the rompings of her brothers, and 
 So intensely are small feet admired (the smallest measuring 4 inches), that they compensate 
 elicit the reply that her feet are so many inches long. They are poetically termed "golden 
 feet of his bride, under the belief that the action will prevent them aching in the future. Shoes 
 shoes are generally covered with coarse white cloth ; those exhibited and marked as mourning 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 67 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 d eS 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 
 O.I I 
 
 2.05 
 
 O.08 
 I.5I 
 
 3 8o 
 
 1 3 
 
 Worn when sleeping, to prevent the foot 
 
 from expanding. 
 Purplish-blue. Plain. Woof of cotton. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 3.01 
 
 2.21 
 
 440 
 
 1 tf 
 
 Purplish-blue. Figured. Woof of cotton. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1. 12 
 
 O.82 
 
 3 3 
 
 I I 
 
 .. 
 
 
 1111 
 
 5.00 
 
 3-68 
 
 1 7 4 
 
 2 I 
 
 Interwoven with gilt paper. Used in hat 
 and cap trimmings. 
 
 
 - 5) 55 
 
 3-78 
 
 2.78 
 
 3 5 8 
 
 1 6£ 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 3-78 
 
 2.78 
 
 3 5 
 
 1 61 
 
 >, 
 
 
 &W±B 
 
 I.OI 
 
 0.74 
 
 
 
 Silk and cotton mixture. Woof of cotton. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 I.l8 
 
 0.87 
 
 
 
 The same. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 1.36 
 
 1. 00 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 O.82 
 
 0.60 
 
 
 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.68 
 
 0.50 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 55 5) 
 
 0.18 
 
 0.13 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 5) 55 
 
 1.50 
 
 1. 10 
 
 
 ... 
 
 The same. Worn outside of long coat. 
 
 
 55 55 
 
 0.63 
 
 0.46 
 
 
 
 Silk and cotton mixture. Worn by officials 
 outside of long coat, to keep the folds in 
 their places. 
 
 
 5> 5) 
 
 o.45 
 
 o.33 
 
 
 
 Same as the preceding, but narrower. 
 
 
 Ekflfjftifi 
 
 1.47 
 
 1.08 
 
 280 
 
 1 2 
 
 Wool woven over a cotton ground. 
 
 
 55 )> 
 
 1.47 
 
 1.08 
 
 r 8 
 
 1 1 
 
 The same. 
 
 to its origin, so many theories have been propounded, all equally plausible, that it is impossible, in the 
 to imitate the club-feet of an Empress, a recognition of small feet as a mark of gentility, and an adoption 
 cynics assert that the Chinese are the only people who have discovered the means of keeping their wives 
 from this national custom. All classes in China except the Tartars practise it, though among the 
 In families where a strict observance of fashion is carried out, this foolish custom is seen in its most 
 the compression is complete, and form set. That the operation is most painful is well testified by 
 countries are enjoying that exercise that builds up and strengthens their constitutions and invigorates and 
 totter from point to point, clutching at everything on the way, to relieve the burden on her aching feet, 
 for the deficiency in ail other charms ; and an inquiry as to the beauty of a Chinese lady will often 
 lilies," and in some parts of the Empire it is often one of the first duties of the bridegroom to nib the 
 worn by people of means are usually of red silk and embroidery. In deep mourning, as with men, the 
 are a modified form of mourning, and worn ordinarily. 
 
68 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 640 
 641 
 642 
 
 643 
 644 
 645 
 646 
 647 
 648 
 649 
 650 
 651 
 652 
 653 
 654 
 655 
 656 
 657 
 658 
 659 
 660 
 661 
 662 
 
 2 pairs Woman's Socks . 
 
 3 „ Man's Stockings. 
 3 Card-case Bags 
 
 2 Hats 
 
 2 „ , 
 
 4 » ■ 
 
 2 „ .. 
 12 Caps 
 
 Velvet, Gold-ribbed 
 
 „ Blue 
 
 „ Mottled 
 
 „ Black 
 
 „ Grey 
 
 Pack-saddle 
 
 Trunk 
 
 Cash Bacj , 
 
 %m 
 
 fc'F'l 
 
 >V 
 
 mm* 
 
 mm 
 w±mt 
 
 ■#.& 
 
 Shensi, Hanchung 
 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 
 Chihli, Tientsin .. 
 
 ■n 11 '• 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 )5 )) 
 
 » )> 
 
 Chihli, Tientsin ., 
 
 )> j> •• 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 J> 5> 
 
 )5 )> 
 
 )5 )J 
 
 >J » 
 
 „ Hsiangyang 
 Shantung, Tengchow 
 
 Hupeh, Siangyang., 
 Chekiang, Ningpo... 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 6 9 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 mm m* 
 
 » ?) 
 
 mm urn 
 
 j) » 
 
 m an 
 
 Bill 3OT 
 
 » » 
 
 « aw 
 
 » » 
 
 3) » 
 
 5> » 
 
 mm s#i 
 
 m mm 
 
 0.67 1 0.49 
 
 2.28 
 0.68 
 
 0.49 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 0-3S 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 0.22 
 
 <$ piece 
 
 0.I9 
 
 <$ piece. 
 
 O.14 
 $? piece 
 
 0.22 
 K? piece, 
 
 0.22 
 jf? piece, 
 
 I4.66 
 8.40 
 5.62 
 
 8.40 
 
 S-i3 
 1.40 
 1.40 
 1.80 
 1.44 
 
 °-35 
 0.22 
 0.22 
 0.1 1 
 
 1.6b 
 0.50 
 
 0.36 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 O.26 
 
 ■$ piece. 
 
 O.16 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 O.14 
 
 IP piece. 
 
 O.IO 
 
 iy? piece. 
 
 O.16 
 
 <$ piece. 
 
 O.16 
 
 <P piece. 
 
 IO.78 
 6.18 
 
 4-13 
 6.18 
 
 3-77 
 1.03 
 1.03 
 
 i-33 
 1.06 
 0.26 
 0.16 
 0.16 
 0.08 
 
 2 5 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 o 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 5 
 
 1 1\ 
 1 7\ 
 1 7i 
 1 8 
 
 Felt. 
 
 Compressed goats' hair and cotton. The 
 Chinese card is a sheet of red paper vary- 
 ing from 6 x 3 inches to 10 x 5 inches in 
 size, in accordance with the rank of the 
 owner. It is always carried by a servant. 
 
 Felt. Fancy silk bindings. 
 
 Felt. Plain. 
 
 Felt. Fancy silk bindings. 
 
 The same. 
 
 Felt. Bound with black lasting. 
 
 Felt. With ear lapels. 
 
 Felt. 
 
 Cotton back, silk facing. Used as dress 
 trimmings. 
 
 Same as the above. 
 
 Same as the preceding, but not so commonly 
 used. 
 
 Same as Nos. 650 and 631. 
 
 Facing inferior to the preceding, but for 
 same use. 
 
 Used in the mountainous districts of China 
 for carrying bedding and other things in. 
 The same. 
 
 Made of stout canvas, and when empty may 
 be rolled up. 
 
 Thrown across the shoulder. 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
70 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place or Pkoduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 663 
 
 664 
 
 665 
 
 666 
 
 667 
 
 668 
 
 669 
 
 670 
 
 671 
 
 672 
 
 673 
 
 674 
 
 675 
 
 676 
 
 677 
 
 678 
 
 679 
 
 680 
 
 681 
 
 682 
 
 683 
 
 684 
 
 685 
 
 686 
 
 Cash Bag. 
 
 2 2 Powder Puffs 
 
 4 Spectacle-eases 
 
 2 pairs Cotton Stockings. 
 2 Spectacle-cases 
 
 mm 
 
 Apron and Pocket ^^t^I 
 
 Handkerchief ^rfl^ 
 
 4 Purses >J>fo ?S 
 
 6 Cask Pouches ftfifcSfi 
 
 3 T! 5} ;> 
 
 4 Tobacco Bags JtBPgg 
 
 Pipe Bag .#*S&£ 
 
 Head-dress $kWi 
 
 m 
 
 &* 
 
 6 J\A 
 
 50 pieces Cotton Rouge H^Ha 
 
 10 „ . » 
 Head-dress ... 
 
 5 Balls 
 
 1 pair Pillows , 
 1 » » 
 
 1 H »1 • 
 
 mm 
 mi 
 
 >Msfe® 
 
 3$ 
 
 Hupeh, Hsiangyang 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 it » 
 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 
 Hunan 
 
 Chekiang, Hangchow 
 
 „ Ningpo.. 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 71 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Ainer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hh.'. 
 
 Length. 
 
 o o E-i 
 
 Width, 
 
 -^ s 
 
 § & 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 m mi 
 
 « mm 
 
 33 55 
 
 33 5) 
 
 » 53 
 
 55 35 
 
 35 53 
 
 mm 
 
 33 33 
 
 33 53 
 
 O.46 
 
 O.5O 
 0.25 
 0.3I 
 0.24 
 O.I2 
 O.I2 
 
 ft piece. 
 
 O.I2 
 ft piece. 
 
 0.22 
 
 O.07 
 O.I I 
 O.I8 
 O.I8 
 
 0*18 
 0.16 
 0*08 
 
 o.39 
 0.30 
 0.26 
 
 O.IO 
 
 0.76 
 
 0.4s 
 
 0.27 
 0.31 
 
 0.34 
 0.37 
 
 0.19 
 0.23 
 0.18 
 
 0.09 
 0.09 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 O.09 
 $ piece. 
 
 O.I6 
 f piece. 
 
 O.05 
 
 O.08 
 O.I3 
 O.I3 
 O.I3 
 O.I2 
 O.06 
 O.29 
 0.22 
 O.I9 
 O.07 
 O.56 
 
 0.33 
 0.20 
 0.23 
 
 Of same make as the preceding, but stronger, 
 and carried across the back of ponies, 
 asses, or mules. 
 
 Bound round the waist. 
 
 Same as the preceding, but smaller. 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 Worn by men. 
 
 With cash bag combined. 
 
 Hung at the waist by passing it under the 
 belt 
 
 Hung at the waist. 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 For carrying the hubble-bubble. 
 
 Worn by married women. Almost out of 
 fashion. 
 
 The same. 
 
 Knitted. Used by women. 
 Lacquered cloth. 
 
 Worn by unmarried women. 
 
 Said to contain pith, hair, and quicksilver ; 
 the latter supposed to make them bounce. 
 
 Smaller than the preceding. 
 The orifice is for the ear. 
 
72 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 687 
 688 
 689 
 690 
 691 
 692 
 
 1 pair Pillows .. 
 
 1 „ Cushions , 
 
 * » » 
 
 Pillow 
 
 Cushion 
 
 Suit of Criminal condemned to death... 
 
 663 
 694 
 695 
 696 
 697 
 698 
 699 
 
 2 pairs Child's Shoes. 
 
 5 » » » 
 
 1 pair „ „ . 
 1 „ 
 
 mm 
 
 IBA# 
 
 *MH 
 
 5) )) 
 
 5 pieces Oiled Cloth. 
 
 4 Boy's Caps 
 
 7 Official Hats 
 
 700 
 701 
 702 
 
 12 Children's Caps and Head Dresses. 
 
 2 Child's Caps 
 
 Boy's Cap 
 
 M 
 
 >Jvj^;l 
 
 >b®m& 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang. 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 73 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 
 Ainer. 
 
 
 g 3 r* 5 
 
 r=5 g 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TU 
 
 O S 
 
 & 
 
 
 
 &M ±® 
 
 O.54 
 
 O.40 
 
 
 
 Used on the opium divan. 
 
 
 ?) » 
 
 O.30 
 
 0.22 
 
 
 
 For chairs or divans. 
 
 
 » 5) 
 
 O.I2 
 
 O.09 
 
 
 
 Used by doctors for resting the patient's 
 hand on while feeling the pulse. 
 
 
 )J » 
 
 O.27 
 
 0.20 
 
 
 
 In two sections. 
 
 
 » >J 
 
 O.23 
 
 O.I7 
 
 
 
 May be folded and used as a pillow. 
 
 
 )> » 
 
 I.36 
 
 I. OO 
 
 
 
 Of cardinal coloured cloth. The unfor- 
 tunate wretch is clad in garments like 
 these, and, with his arms and legse 
 pinioned, is conveyed, in a wooden cag 
 or a sedan chair with no roof, to the 
 execution ground, where, in a kneeling 
 posture and neck stretched forward by 
 his cue, he is decapitated. 
 
 
 » V 
 
 O.26 
 
 $? pair. 
 
 O.I9 
 
 $ pair. 
 
 
 
 
 
 M ^11 
 
 0.22 
 
 ^ pair. 
 O.50 
 
 0.34 
 
 O.16 
 
 $ pair. 
 
 0-37 
 O.25 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 
 3-59 
 
 2.71 
 
 500 
 
 I I 
 
 Used for covering sedan chairs. 
 
 
 
 0.12 
 
 O.09 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ¥ piece. 
 
 Apiece. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 O.S8 
 
 0.43 
 
 
 
 Of black cloth, with purple tassels, and used 
 
 
 
 ¥> piece. 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 
 
 in mourning. This style of hat is used 
 on all ceremonial occasions by those who 
 hold real or brevet official rank. It is for 
 ordinary use made of deep purple satin, 
 faced with the same material or velvet 
 or skin, and has a bright red tassel. 
 The buttons denote the rank: the lowest, 
 which may be used by all graduates, 
 passed or honorary, is of brass; the 
 highest, of deep red, is worn by the 
 first magnates of the Empire. This hat 
 
 
 ~ 
 
 
 
 
 
 is worn by all officers, civil or military, 
 and is invariably adorned, when not in 
 mourning, with a peacock's feather, which 
 fits into a jade socket attached at right 
 
 
 )5 )J 
 
 3-24 
 
 2.38 
 
 
 
 angles to the button. 
 
 
 fti§ ±^ 
 
 0.18 
 
 0.13 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 
 )) >5 
 
 O.19 
 
 O.14 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
74 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. Name in English. 
 
 703 
 704 
 705 
 
 706 
 707 
 708 
 
 709 
 710 
 711 
 712 
 713 
 714 
 715 
 716 
 717 
 718 
 719 
 720 
 721 
 722 
 723 
 724 
 725 
 
 Girl's Cap 
 
 6 Man's Caps 
 
 Man's Cap. 
 
 >b&m® 
 
 8 pieces 
 
 9 » 
 
 Silk 
 
 
 
 I piece 
 
 
 
 * 33 
 
 
 *■ n 
 
 
 *■ 5) 
 
 
 * 3) 
 
 
 I 33 
 
 
 * 5) 
 
 
 1 » 
 
 
 * S3 
 
 
 
 
 1 33 
 
 
 I 33 
 
 
 * 33 
 
 
 » £^ 
 
 » H » 
 
 33 ftP* 3) 
 
 » fl » 
 
 » T-EL » 
 
 5) 3) 
 
 £JH3ftr 
 
 ag&injtfr 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 
 33 » 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . 
 
 Kiangsu, Soochow 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 
 3) 33 
 
 Hupeh, Kingchow 
 Szechwan, Pachow 
 
 33 33 
 
 Kiangsi, Hsinch'ang 
 
 33 
 Shangkao 
 
 33 
 33 
 
 Ts'ungjen 
 
 Ihwang 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 75 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tte. 
 
 Length. 
 
 o o Eh 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 m mm 
 
 i) 5) 
 
 Bltt »I 
 B/iJ ELM 
 
 55 J) 
 
 » )) 
 
 =£: 
 
 £: 
 
 O.IO 
 I.OI 
 0.20 
 
 O.IO 
 
 0.08 
 
 O.I 2 
 
 3-55 
 
 $ .piece. 
 
 3-55 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 3-9o 
 
 3P piece. 
 2.42 
 
 I.06 
 
 2.99 
 I.59 
 1. 17 
 2.92 
 
 2-34 
 I.77 
 3.06 
 2.65 
 2.24 
 2.96 
 2.27 
 1.82 
 
 O.07 
 O.74 
 O.15 
 
 O.07 
 O.06 
 O.09 
 
 2.6l 
 
 § piece. 
 
 2.6l 
 
 8> piece. 
 2.87 
 
 $ piece. 
 
 I.78 
 O.78 
 2.20 
 1. 17 
 O.86 
 2.15 
 1.72 
 
 1.30 
 2.25 
 1.95 
 I.65 
 2.l8 
 I.67 
 
 1-34 
 
 104 
 100 
 100 
 4 8 5 
 4 6 5 
 4 9 5 
 
 4 8 5 
 476 
 
 5 2 9 
 5 2 9 
 5 2 9 
 S 2 9 
 5 2 9 
 S 2 9 
 5 2 9 
 300 
 300 
 
 2 o 
 
 9i 
 
 9* 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 6* 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 2i 
 3 
 
 2* 
 
 2* 
 
 2* 
 
 2^ 
 
 I 
 
 I 
 
 In sombre colours, as used in mourning. 
 Usually of black satin with red knobs. 
 
 Same as the preceding. Of coarse white 
 cloth. Used during the period of intense 
 mourning or when following the remain 
 of a parent. 
 
 Same as the preceding. 
 
 Made from foreign cotton material. 
 
 Variegated. Manufactured solely for cover- 
 ing bed quilts. 
 
 Of different colours. For same use as the 
 preceding. 
 
 Plaided. For same use as the preceding. 
 Fine ; unbleached. 
 Coarse ; unbleached. 
 Fine ; unbleached. 
 Coarse; unbleached. 
 
 Fine; bleached. 
 
 m it 
 
 Coarse ; bleached. 
 
 Fine ; dark blue. 
 
 Fine ; light blue. 
 
 Fine ; darker shade than the preceding. 
 
 Fine; red. Used only for women and children. 
 
 Fine; bleached. 
 
76 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 piece Grasscloth . 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 
 m&m 
 
 CT 
 
 JJ 
 
 #&Ih 
 
 5) 
 
 )J 
 
 ■6* 
 
 >) 
 >> 
 
 Kiangsi, 
 ch'ang. 
 
 ,, m 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 » *H 
 
 )) 
 
 » 
 
 » ^B 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 » ffil 
 
 m 
 
 » 
 
 tcMHir 
 
 » 
 
 *6fflJ 
 
 w 
 
 » 
 
 
 Place of Pboduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Kiangsi, Ihwang 
 
 Ningtu 
 
 Lean 
 
 Wantsai... 
 
 „ Chinch 'L... 
 „ Shihch'eng 
 
 „ Feni 
 
 Hunan, Liuyang 
 
 -The plants which furnish the fibre from which this cloth is woven have been identified as Urtica 
 filaments boiled in lime water and exposed to the sun become more flexible and white, suitable 
 Universal Exhibition, Vienna, 1873.") 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 77 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 O O h 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 &w ££ 
 
 }# 
 
 m mm 
 
 1.09 
 4-03 
 3-90 
 4.11 
 3.02 
 3.62 
 
 5-43 
 2.99 
 2.62 
 2.22 
 7.82 
 2.15 
 1.88 
 1.25 
 4.58 
 3-47 
 2.03 
 1.96 
 
 i-37 
 1.40 
 
 1.74 
 1.40 
 3-25 
 
 0.80 
 2.96 
 2.87 
 3.02 
 2.22 
 2.66 
 
 3-99 
 2.20 
 
 i-93 
 1.63 
 
 5-75 
 1.58 
 
 1.38 
 0.92 
 
 3-37 
 2.55 
 1.51 
 1.44 
 1.01 
 1.03 
 1.28 
 1.03 
 2-39 
 
 300 
 600 
 600 
 600 
 600 
 600 
 920 
 640 
 640 
 640 
 9 5 o 
 500 
 500 
 
 4 7 6 
 
 5 o 1 
 
 6 8 1 
 
 7 4 9 
 400 
 
 7 4 9 
 5 7 o 
 760 
 660 
 4 9 1 
 
 3 
 2 
 2 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 7\ 
 
 1\ 
 
 7\ 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 3\ 
 
 1* 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 Fine ; bleached. 
 
 Fine ; light blue. 
 
 Fine ; dark blue. 
 
 Fine ; dark purple. 
 
 Fine; black. Used principally for mourning. 
 
 Fine ; green. Process of dyeing same as 
 No. 163. 
 
 Fine ; bleached. 
 
 Coarse ; bleached. 
 Fine ; unbleached. 
 Fine ; bleached. 
 Fine; unbleached. 
 Coarse ; unbleached. 
 Fine ; unbleached. 
 
 Coarse ; unbleached. 
 
 Fine ; red. Used only by women and 
 children. 
 
 Coarse ; unbleached. Used for mosquito 
 curtains. 
 
 Coarse ; unbleached. 
 
 Coarse ; bleached. Used for mosquito cur- 
 tains. 
 
 Coarse ; unbleached. 
 Fine ; unbleached. 
 
 nivea, Sida tiliasfolia, Dolichos bulbosis, etc. The stalk of these plants is like that of hemp, and its 
 for weaving into cloth. ("Port Catalogues of the Chinese Customs Collection at the Austro-Hungarian 
 
72 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 I piece Felt.. 
 
 1 )j )) ••' 
 Inner Jacket. 
 Lonw Coat.... 
 
 Vestment 
 
 Waist Girdle. 
 Shoes 
 
 Hood 
 
 Cap 
 
 Hat 
 
 4 Hats .... 
 
 Vestment , 
 
 » 
 
 .. mm 
 
 » MM 
 
 Shensi, Hanchung 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . 
 
 Kiangsu, Shanghai 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 Note. "The most popular religious sect in China is the Buddhists, or the followers of Fo, whose tenets 
 
 of the Rationalists, to seek for a wise man said to have appeared there ; according to others, 
 have been that this mission was excited by some indistinct tidings of the advent and death 
 are more numerous in China than the Tausz, and they obtained influence more rapidly over the 
 goes even further in permitting the priests to worship the gods of other pantheons, so that 
 foreign spirits into their calendar they saw fit. They had a good entrance into China through 
 of happiness hereafter, of which Confucius said nothing, the people naturally looked upon them 
 austerities to overcome evil passions and fit its disciples for future happiness. A vow of celibacy 
 calling upon his name. They shave the entire head as a token of purity ; they profess to eat no 
 worshippers, and the cultivation of the grounds of the temple. Much of their support is 
 of them are respectable, intelligent, and sober-minded persons, who seem to be sincerely 
 "The Middle Kingdom," vol. ii.) 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 79 
 
 Province a 
 
 iND Town 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 Name in 
 
 Chinese. 
 
 Ainer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 HTc.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 6 & 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 B*W 
 
 vas rrT 
 
 0.20 
 
 O.I5 
 
 042 
 
 2 3 
 
 For making shoe soles. 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 0.20 
 
 0.15 
 
 042 
 
 2 3 
 
 The same. 
 
 m 
 
 3tK 
 
 0.54 
 
 O.40 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Buddhist priest's. 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 1.69 
 
 I.24 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 >> »> ■ _ 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 1.69 
 
 I.24 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 )> 11 
 
 » 
 
 5> 
 
 4.20 
 
 3-09 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 i) 11 
 
 » 
 
 J) 
 
 3.54 
 
 2.60 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 »j 11 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 4.62 
 
 3-40 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 11 11 
 
 » 
 
 5> 
 
 1.67 
 
 1.23 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 11 11 
 
 5> 
 
 » 
 
 0.05 
 
 0.04 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 „ 
 
 um 
 
 -LflP 
 
 0.60 
 
 0.44 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 i> 11 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 0.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 11 11 
 
 M 
 
 11 
 
 0.68 
 
 0.50 
 
 ... 
 
 
 n 11 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 0.26 
 
 0.19 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Buddhist priest's, ordinary wear. 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 11 1) 1) 11 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 2-45 
 
 1.80 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Buddhist priest's, ceremonial wear. 
 
 » 
 
 j> 
 
 5-47 
 
 4.02 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Taoist priest's. 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 4.20 
 
 3.09 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 „ 
 
 were introduced into China about A.TJL 66, by means of an embassy sent to the West at the suggestion 
 it arose from a remarkable expression of Confucius, 'The people of the West have sages.' It may 
 of Christ, though there is no trace of such a rumour having reached the laud of Sinim. Buddhist priests 
 people. Their demonolatry allows the incorporation of the deities and spirits of other religions, and 
 they could adapt themselves to the popular superstitions of the country they went to, and ingraft all the 
 Imperial favour, and as their rites presented nothing cruel or revolting, and their tenets held out promises 
 with favour. The tenets of Buddhism require a renunciation of the world and the observance of 
 is taken and the priests dwell together for mutual assistance in attaining perfection by worshipping Buddha and 
 animal food, wear no skin or woollen garments, and get their living by begging, by the alms of 
 derived from the sale of incense sticks, gilt paper, and candles and fees for services at funerals. Many 
 desirous of making themselves better, if possible, by their religions observances." (Dr. Williams, 
 
8o 
 
 NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 6 Hats 
 
 3 Smoothing Irons 
 
 Smoothing Iron 
 
 )> )) 
 
 3 pairs Scissors 
 
 4 Thimbles 
 
 6 Chalk Bags and Lines 
 
 Knife 
 
 Foot Eule 
 
 8 Banners 
 
 «±*is 
 
 mm 
 mm 
 am 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang . . 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 Hupeh, Hanyang .. 
 Chekiang, Ningpo 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang , 
 
 Note. — Taoism, or Rationalism, dates its origin from the founder Lao-tzu, or the "Old Child," the 
 the womb, his mother bringing him forth from her left side, under a plum tree, from which he 
 Great Supreme, and is styled "The Venerable Prince." He is represented as having travelled 
 The summary of his doctrine, as gleaned from the only work he has left behind, called the Tao-te- 
 impersonal First Principle, self-existent, self-developing, the mother of all things. The operation 
 sought for in return through 'quietism' and 'non-action' to the mother principle. The 
 from mental perturbation." Dr. Williams says: — "He teaches the emanation and return of 
 miseries of successive births and their accompanying sorrows await him. Only the priests of 
 cultivating the ground attached to the establishment, and thus perpetuate their body ; many 
 They shave the' sides of the head, and coil the rest of the hair in a tuft upon the crown, 
 immortality, and during the Tang dynasty the Emperor and highest officers were carried away 
 and designing jugglers, who are quite as willing to use their magical powers to injure their 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 81 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hl-.Tts. 
 
 o 5 s* 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 to mm 
 
 ») 5J 
 
 » 5> 
 J> 5J 
 
 J5 5) 
 
 » )5 
 
 M fltfil 
 
 3-54 
 2.56 
 0.22 
 0.14 
 0.18 
 0.05 
 0.07 
 0.04 
 0.04 
 12.13 
 
 2.60 
 1.88 
 0.16 
 0.10 
 0.13 
 0.04 
 0.05 
 0.03 
 0.03 
 8.91 
 
 4.04 
 
 2.97 
 
 Taoist priest's, ceremonial. 
 Brass ; filled with live charcoal. 
 Iron. Same as preceding. 
 For ironing seams. 
 
 For marking. 
 
 Used for cutting skin lining. 
 
 Banners of the eight divisions of the Im- 
 perial or Manchn corps — the army with 
 which the present dynasty invaded China 
 and wrested the sceptre from the feeble 
 grasp of the Mings. The descendants of 
 this army of Manchus, including also 
 Chinese who joined the standards, are all 
 enrolled under their respective banners, 
 and an accurate register is kept of their 
 number ; they receive a monthly stipend, 
 and have to be in readiness to go on 
 active service when called upon. Their 
 strength at present in Peking alone ex- 
 ceeds 100,000. The diagram in the centre 
 of the flags is the yin-yang of Chinese 
 cosmogony, or the male and female prin- 
 ciples of nature, from which all creation 
 was evolved. 
 
 Arranged in proper sequence; the characters 
 make the phrase "Great and Pure Na- 
 tion." See No. 1. 
 
 legend being that he had white hair and eyebrows at his birth, and had been borne for 80 years in 
 took his surname of Li, or Plum (B.C. 504). He is believed by his votaries to be the incarnation of the 
 to the "further extremities" of the earth and to have converted many people to his way of thinking. 
 ching is given as follows by the late Mr. W. F. Mayers: — "Creation proceeding from a vast, intangible, 
 of this creative principle fulfilled in the nature of men, the highest development of which again is to be 
 highest good, accordingly, is to be enjoyed in a transcendental abstraction from worldly cares, or freedom 
 all good beings into the bosom of Reason (Tao), and their eternal existence therein ; but if not good, the 
 this sect are regarded as its members ; they live in temples and small communities with their families, 
 lead a wandering life, and derive a precarious livelihood from the sale of charms and medical nostrums, 
 thrusting a pin through it. They long endeavoured to find a beverage which would insure longevity or 
 with the delusion. Since that time they have degenerated, and are now looked upon as ignorant cheats 
 enemies as to help those who seek their aid," 
 
82 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place op Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 778 9 Banners. 
 
 779 
 
 Hupeh, Hanyang 
 
 » 5) 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE SHANGHAI COLLECTION. 
 
 83 
 
 Pbovince and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Ek.rn. 
 
 I 1 ^ i 
 
 O O £3 
 
 4 i 
 
 6 a 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 » mm 
 
 28.15 
 
 24-93 
 
 20.70 
 18.33 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Company flags. A brigade is divided into 
 five battalions, each battalion consisting 
 of five companies, which each number 100 
 strong, and are respectively designated 
 van, rear, left, right, and centre. 
 
 Striped. Banners of officers, civil and mili- 
 tary. The character in the centre is the 
 surname of the official. 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION. 
 
 CHINA SECTION. 
 
 Part II. 
 CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Plack of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 1,2 
 3-6 
 
 7-22 
 
 23- 
 26 
 
 27 
 28 
 
 29 
 30 
 31 
 32 
 33 
 34 
 
 35 
 36 
 
 37 
 38 
 39 
 40 
 
 2 pairs Hanging Lanterns . 
 
 4 5} )> }, 
 
 1 6 pairs Written Scrolls... 
 
 > 4 pairs Painted Scrolls . 
 Chinese Imperial Ensign . 
 
 Flag of Viceroy of the Two Kwang 
 provinces. 
 
 Flag of Hoppo or Superintendent of 
 
 Customs, Canton. 
 Flag of Chinese Rearguard 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 mm 
 
 
 m 
 
 
 Flag of the Sui-ching Regiment, Canton 
 
 Flag of a Military or Naval Commander' pf* ||| fj^f^^lE 
 
 Official Processional Flag iW *H^f£ 
 
 Flag of a Canton Street Patrol J| >}\] |$ -j^Zp. ffi 
 
 Artillery Flag 
 
 Flag of Authority 
 
 Flag of the Chinese Gun- vessel Chinto 
 
 Congratulatory Flag 
 
 Buddhist Temple Flag 
 
 Flag of Official Junk 
 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
AT THE NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.m. 
 
 Length. 
 
 8* riS s 
 6 o S 
 
 6 8 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 mMMiSii 
 
 5) )5 
 
 » )) 
 
 )> )) 
 
 5J )> 
 
 >> 5) 
 
 )J 5) 
 
 76.00 
 38.00 
 IS.OO 
 
 II.OO 
 2.72 
 2.49 
 
 2.27 
 2.27 
 2.27 
 2.27 
 2.27 
 2.27 
 
 2.27 
 2.27 
 
 2.27 
 2.04 
 2.04 
 2.04 
 
 56.00 
 28.00 
 
 11.00 
 
 8.00 
 
 2.00 
 .83 
 
 .68 
 .68 
 .68 
 .68 
 
 .68 
 
 1.68 
 r.50 
 1.50 
 1.50 
 
 For lighting rooms. 
 
 For ornamenting the walls of rooms. The 
 characters on each pair of scrolls form a 
 poetical couplet. 
 
 For ornamenting the walls of rooms. 
 
 Hoisted in front of official residence. 
 
 The character on the flag is pronounced 
 Wang, and is a Chinese surname. 
 
 Borne in front of high officials. The charac- 
 ters signify "Purity." 
 
 The character on the flag signifies a 
 " cannon." 
 
 The character on the flag signifies "Man- 
 date." Such a flag would he borne by a 
 force sent to suppress a riot ; it conveys 
 authority to use arms against a mob, and 
 is somewhat equivalent to the "Riot 
 Act " in the West. 
 
 The characters on^the flag signify "Joy be 
 with you." 
 
NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 8 84- 5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Nanie in English. 
 
 41 
 42 
 43 
 44 
 45 
 46 
 47 
 
 Buddhist Temple Flag 
 
 Flag used at Mid-autumn Festival . 
 T'utoia Boat Flag 
 
 Flag of Officials from 4th Rank down 
 
 wards. 
 Flag of Officials from 2nd to 4th Rank 
 
 Flag of Officials of 1st Rank. 
 Junk Guardian Flag , 
 
 ±mmm 
 
 48 
 49 
 50 
 
 51 
 52 
 
 Flag of a Generalissimo 
 
 Flag of a General of Provincial Forces 
 
 Junk Guardian Flag 
 
 Domestic Guardian Flag 
 
 Laudatory Flag 
 
 MIR 
 
 53 i Flag 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 56 
 
 57 
 
 58 
 59 
 
 1m 
 
 MftMUftt 
 
 %m 
 
 Black-wood Cabinet. 
 
 Table 
 
 ttttftfli 
 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 89 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in 
 
 Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 m-M 
 
 mm 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.68 
 
 
 
 The characters signify "Queen of Heaven," 
 a deity of the Chinese. 
 
 
 )7 
 
 » 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.68 
 
 
 
 The characters signify "Mid-autumn salu- 
 tations." 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.68 
 
 
 
 T'nJma is the name of a place near Canton. 
 
 
 ?> 
 
 » 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.68 
 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 S) 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.68 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.68 
 
 
 
 
 
 >J 
 
 » 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 
 Device represents the " eight diagrams " of 
 Chinese philosophy, with, in the centre, 
 the diagram of the yang and yin, the 
 primordial positive and negative essences 
 from which all matter was evolved. The 
 flag is hoisted by junks to ward off evil 
 influences. 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 Character on flag signifies ' ' Commander-in- 
 chief." 
 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 )) 
 
 )> 
 
 I.82 
 
 i-33 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Device represents yang and yin {see No. 47). 
 Flag is used by junks. 
 
 
 >» 
 
 J) 
 
 3-64 
 
 2.67 
 
 
 
 Picture represents Tzii-ivei, the spirit which 
 keeps off evil influences. 
 
 
 !) 
 
 )) 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 
 Such a flag would be presented to a skilful 
 workman. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 )> 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 
 The picture represents an eclipse, which the 
 Chinese say is brought about by toads or 
 a dragon trying to devour the sun or 
 moon. 
 
 
 5) 
 
 )) 
 
 1.82 
 
 i-33 
 
 
 
 The stars on the flag represent the seven 
 stars of the Great Bear, which constitute 
 the "Plough." The proper relative 
 positions are not preserved. 
 
 
 » 
 
 )) 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 
 ... 
 
 The picture is that of a bat, the Chinese 
 emblem of happiness. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 » 
 
 3-64 
 
 2.67 
 
 ... 
 
 
 Device represents yang and yin and "eight 
 diagrams " (see No. 47), surrounded by 
 four bats. 
 
 
 » 
 
 ?> 
 
 5440 
 
 40.00 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Canton black-wood is red-wood stained. 
 The red-wood is imported from Annam 
 and Siam. 
 
 
 5) 
 
 )) 
 
 27.20 
 
 20.00 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl. 
 
 
 >» 
 
 )) 
 
 18.13 
 
 13-33 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 ,. 
 
po 
 
 NEW OELEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 60- 
 63 
 
 64- 
 67 
 
 68- 
 75 
 
 76- 
 
 79 
 
 80- 
 84 
 
 85 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 88 
 
 89 
 90 
 
 91- 
 94 
 
 95- 
 
 103 
 
 104- 
 107 
 
 108 
 109 
 
 110 
 111 
 112 
 
 113 
 
 114 
 115 
 
 116- 
 119 
 
 120 
 121 
 
 122 
 123 
 
 j-4 „ Drum-shaped Stools .. 
 
 J- 4 Black-wood Stools 
 
 } 
 
 J- 8 „ Chairs 
 
 J4 „ Tea-poys 
 
 J- 5 pairs Porcelain Vases 
 
 1 „ „ Umbrella Stands.... 
 
 1 „ „ Drum-shaped Stools 
 
 > 2 Glazed Earthen Ornaments 
 
 > 2 Porcelain Punch Bowls 
 
 >4 „ Card Plates 
 
 > 9 pairs Porcelain Vases 
 
 J- 4 sets Porcelain Toilet Boxes 
 
 J- 2 White Porcelain Images 
 
 Carved Ivory Curio 
 
 1 set Ivory Draughtsmen 
 
 1 set Carved Ivory Chessmen 
 
 Lacquered Chess-board 
 
 1-2 Silk Embroidered Fans 
 
 J- 4 „ Fans, painted Figures 
 
 J-2 j, Embroidered Fans, raised Figures 
 
 } 2 „ „ „ (Trees) 
 
 tt&PMtt 
 
 Kwangtung- Canton 
 
 mm 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 mm. 
 
 .150^ 
 
 Kiangsi, Kingtechen 
 
 Kiangsi, Kingtechen 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
 mmm 
 mm 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 91 
 
 Province and Town 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Ainer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TU. 
 
 Length. 
 
 J Ss -» 
 
 5 ^ h 
 
 Width. 
 
 6 £ 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 55 5) 
 
 55 55 
 
 ftViltt 
 
 am Mtffltt 
 
 25.38 
 
 54.40 
 
 105.20 
 
 26.28 
 
 86.12 
 8.16 
 
 u.79 
 3.18 
 
 9.08 
 6.34 
 
 4-95 
 1.66 
 
 1.08 
 5-89 
 7-44 
 45-32 
 9.97 
 4.90 
 
 0.92 
 
 0.36 
 
 0.92 
 
 18.67 
 40.00 
 77-36 
 19.32 
 
 63-33 
 6.00 
 8.67 
 2-33 
 6.68 
 4.66 
 
 3-64 
 1.22 
 
 0.S0 
 4-33 
 5-47 
 33-34 
 7-33 
 3.60 
 
 0.67 
 
 0.26 
 
 0.66 
 
 Inlaid with marble and mother-of-pearl. 
 
 Painted in Canton. 
 
 Manufactured at Shihwan, about 16 miles 
 from Canton. 
 
 Painted in Canton. 
 
 Ornament. 
 
 For screening the face. 
 
92 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 124 
 
 125 
 126 
 
 127 
 
 128 
 129 
 
 130 
 131 
 
 132 
 133 
 
 134 
 135 
 
 135« 
 
 Folding Fan, Lacquered Handle 
 
 }2 Silk Embroidered Screens, Black- 
 wood Frames. 
 
 8 Rattan Chair Cushions 
 
 >2 Silk Table Hangings 
 
 J-2 „ Embroidered Scrolls 
 
 > 2 „ „ Chair Covers , 
 
 1 1 pair Silk Embroidered Screens (in 
 J Black-wood Frames). 
 
 Set of Models to illustrate Dyeing 
 Process : — 
 
 a. Unsizing Tub and Wringer 
 
 b. Dyeing Vats 
 
 c. Rinsing Tub , 
 
 d. Re-sizing Tub 
 
 e. Beating Table 
 
 /. Drying Frame 
 
 g. Rolling Stand 
 
 h. Calender 
 
 136 
 137 
 138 
 139 
 140 
 141 
 
 Cotton, Raw 
 
 „ with Seed 
 Cloth 
 
 mmmm 
 mmmk 
 
 ME 
 
 mm 
 
 mimm 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
 Swatow 
 
 Hsintsao. 
 
 Shihch'iao 
 
 Tziitung .. 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 93 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hh.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 mm mm 
 
 1.45 
 
 I.07 
 
 
 
 
 
 » j) 
 
 25-38 
 
 18.66 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 3-62 
 
 2.66 
 
 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 26.29 
 
 19-34 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 i) » 
 
 21.76 
 
 16.00 
 
 
 
 
 
 » j> 
 
 7.26 
 
 5-33 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » » 
 
 10.88 
 
 8.00 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 « fOfgM 
 
 9.07 
 
 6.67 
 
 
 
 
 
 » )> 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 .... 
 
 For the complete removal of size, if any, 
 from the cloth. 
 
 
 >» » 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Indigo the general dye. 
 
 
 )5 » 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 ... 
 
 For the removal from the cloth of impurities 
 taken up in the dyeing vat. 
 
 
 )) )) 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 ... 
 
 The dyed cloth is steeped in size. 
 
 
 » )> 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 The size is worked into the fabric by appli- 
 cation of the wooden beater. 
 
 
 )) » 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 ... 
 
 For drying the cloth after sizing and at 
 other stages. 
 
 
 )J J> 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 ... 
 
 To prepare the cloth for the calender. 
 
 
 » )J 
 
 ... 
 
 ... 
 
 
 • •• 
 
 The stone, waxed underneath, is worked by 
 foot to and fro upon the roller until the 
 cloth acquires the requisite smoothness 
 and gloss. 
 
 
 ,t]f£ §?*£ 
 
 1. 11 
 
 0.89 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 ?J )5 
 
 0.79 
 
 0.60 
 
 
 ... 
 
 
 
 » iffl^ 
 
 0.61 
 
 0.45 
 
 2 
 
 I I 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 
 
 )) 5) 
 
 0.67 
 
 0.49 
 
 2 
 
 I I 
 
 „ . „ 
 
 
 1> » 
 
 0-33 
 
 0.24 
 
 2 
 
 O 9 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » i&m 
 
 0.41 
 
 0.30 
 
 2 
 
 I I 
 
 „ 
 
94 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Pboduction- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Cotton Cloth 
 
 „ Dyed 
 
 5) )> 
 
 )> )> 
 
 W 
 
 £W 
 
 Kwangtung, Lishui 
 
 „ Shat'ou , 
 
 „ Chiangt'ou ., 
 
 „ Tiehchiao .. 
 
 „ Shihch'iao... 
 
 „ Chiayingchou 
 
 „ Shihch'iao... 
 
 „ Tali 
 
 „ Chiayingchou 
 
 „ Tali 
 
 „ Chiayingchou 
 
 „ Shihlung ., 
 
 „ Kuanyao ., 
 
 „ Tsangt'ou 
 
 „ Shat'ou 
 
 „ Canton 
 
 „ TaU 
 
 „ Shat'ou 
 
 „ Yenpu 
 
 „ Kuanyao 
 
 „ Tiehchiao ... 
 „ Taliang 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 95 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $ . 
 
 iik.m. 
 
 *S fi M 
 
 O O Ei 
 
 WIDTH. 
 
 Q £ 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 m% Mi< 
 
 m 
 Tff#§ 
 
 
 MM 
 
 " &8'l& 
 
 W\ 
 
 » JEMS 
 
 SI 
 
 0.31 
 0.26 
 
 0.33 
 0.78 
 0.50 
 0.51 
 0.50 
 0.71 
 0.45 
 0.59 
 0.56 
 0.82 
 0.64 
 1.26 
 1. 00 
 0.45 
 0.50 
 0.31 
 0.21 
 0.76 
 1.16 
 2.00 
 0.73 
 073 
 
 0.23 
 0.19 
 
 0.24 
 0.57 
 0.37 
 0.37 
 0.37 
 0.52 
 
 0.33 
 0.43 
 0.41 
 0.60 
 0.47 
 0.93 
 0.73 
 0.33 
 0.37 
 0.23 
 0.15 
 0.56 
 0.85 
 1.47 
 
 °-53 
 O.S3 
 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 200 
 240 
 240 
 
 1 o 
 
 M 
 
 1 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 5 
 1 1 
 1 2 
 1 o 
 
 8 
 
 1 2 
 1 1 
 
 9i 5 o 
 
 1 Oj 
 
 I I 
 I I 
 I o 
 o 9 
 o 7^ 
 
 8 
 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 1 4 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 Used for towelling. 
 Used for towelling, etc. 
 Used for hags, wrappers, etc. 
 Used for clothing, etc. 
 
 Used for temple hangings and for festive 
 adornments. 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 
 Dyed before being woven. Used forpalam- 
 pore covering (see No. 349). 
 
96 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Cord 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Tape 
 
 
 
 „ partly Dyed . 
 
 55 
 
 Kwangtung, Taliang 
 „ Shihch'iao 
 „ Canton.. 
 
 fMrfj^ 
 
 
 &*B*>&: 
 
 m 
 
 l^/TOW 
 
 Shat'ou 
 
 55 ' 
 
 Tztini . . , 
 Shat'ou 
 
 Shawan. 
 
 Canton. 
 
 5) 
 
 Lunchiao 
 Taliang 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 97 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 llk.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 5 S H 
 
 
 mm 
 
 m 
 
 jt& 
 
 0.50 
 0.44 
 0.18 
 
 0.18 
 0.09 
 0.09 
 0.36 
 0.36 
 0.64 
 0.76 
 0.86 
 0.86 
 1.27 
 0.86 
 0.37 
 0.39 
 1. 12 
 0.62 
 0.44 
 0.14 
 0.29 
 0.27 
 0.95 
 0.21 
 
 0.37 
 0.32 
 0.13 
 
 0.13 
 0.07 
 0.07 
 0.27 
 0.27 
 0.47 
 0.56 
 0.63 
 0.63 
 
 o-93 
 0.63 
 0.27 
 0.29 
 0.82 
 0.45 
 0.32 
 
 O.IO 
 
 0.21 
 0.20 
 0.70 
 
 0.15 
 
 200 
 200 
 
 028 
 
 028 
 030 
 024 
 021 
 021 
 020 
 
 Width. 
 
 I 2 5 
 
 1 5 
 
 2 8 
 
 2 8 
 
 3 o 
 
 2 4 
 
 7 T % 
 o 7f 5 o 
 7t 5 o 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Used for lining palampores, also for towel- 
 ling (see No. 349). 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 
 The cloth is foreign but the articles are 
 stamped in Canton. Used as luggage 
 wrappers. 
 
 Samples consist of 10 towels each; each 
 towel is the size given. 
 
 Used for sewing shoes and for packing. 
 Used generally. 
 
 Used for waist bands, etc. 
 
 Used for cording luggage, etc. 
 
 Used for binding garments, etc. 
 
 Dyeing done before tape is woven. 
 
9 8 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 190 
 191 
 192 
 193 
 194 
 195 
 196 
 197 
 198 
 199 
 
 200 
 201 
 202 
 203 
 204 
 205 
 206 
 207 
 208 
 209 
 210 
 211 
 212 
 
 Cotton Tape, partly Dyed 
 Dyed 
 
 Fancy Trimmings. 
 Artificial Flowers. 
 
 Cotton Clothing :- 
 Jacket 
 
 Waistcoat 
 
 Lined Jacket 
 
 Wadded Waistcoat , 
 
 fiffiiM 
 
 torn 
 
 M7£ 
 
 jkmz 
 
 
 Kwangtung, Taliang 
 „ Lunchiao 
 
 m> 
 
 n& 
 
 Taliang 
 
 Huahsien 
 Canton 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 99 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.TU. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 
 Ts'un. 
 
 6 S 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 M'M KE 
 
 O.04 
 
 O.03 
 
 
 
 Dyeing done before tape is woven. 
 
 
 u M* 
 
 O.64 
 
 O.47 
 
 
 
 Woven first, dyed afterwards. 
 
 
 » >» 
 
 0-37 
 
 0.27 
 
 
 
 » >i j> 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.44 
 
 o-33 
 
 
 
 .. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.44 
 
 o.33 
 
 
 
 >> >> >> 
 
 
 » %M 
 
 O.41 
 
 0.30 
 
 
 
 Dyed first, woven afterwards. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.34 
 
 0.25 
 
 
 
 .. 
 
 
 » 2E& 
 
 O.lS 
 
 0.13 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 * ftJHtf 
 
 O.23 
 
 0.17 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 >» » 
 
 1.97 
 
 MS 
 
 
 
 Sample consists of 14 boxes. 
 
 
 j> >» 
 
 I. OO 
 
 o.73 
 
 
 
 Worn by women. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.64 
 
 0.47 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » 5> 
 
 1. 12 
 
 0.82 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 H }> 
 
 0.6l 
 
 0.45 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.9I 
 
 0.67 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.gi 
 
 0.67 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 )> » 
 
 0.95 
 
 0.70 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 )» W 
 
 1.40 
 
 1.03 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 » » 
 
 1.45 
 
 1.07 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 !> » 
 
 0.68 
 
 0.51 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 JJ !J 
 
 1.45 
 
 1.07 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 » )> 
 
 1.77 
 
 1.30 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 >5 » 
 
 i.*3 
 
 0.83 
 
 
 
 Worn by women in cold weather. 
 
100 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in Enalish. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Cotton Clothing, continued: 
 Wadded Jacket 
 
 Trousers . 
 Leggings. 
 Jacket . . . 
 
 Coat ... 
 Jacket , 
 
 Coat ... 
 Jacket , 
 
 Lined Jacket , 
 
 Waistcoat , 
 
 Lined Jacket . 
 
 Wadded Jacket .... 
 Waistcoat. 
 
 Jacket. 
 
 n -km 
 
 » -&MW 
 » WMZ 
 
 j) » 
 
 n !%Mfe 
 
 » M 
 
 11 » 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 IOI 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'un. 
 
 £3 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 m mmm 
 
 I.60 
 
 1. 18 
 
 
 
 Worn by women in cold weather. 
 
 
 )) j) 
 
 2.09 
 
 i-53 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.77 
 
 o.57 
 
 
 
 Worn by women. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.77 
 
 0.57 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.75 
 
 0.55 
 
 
 
 Worn by men. 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.75 
 
 o.55 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » 5) 
 
 MS 
 
 0.83 
 
 
 ... 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.73 
 
 o.53 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » )> 
 
 O.76 
 
 0.56 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 0.85 
 
 0.63 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » >» 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 )} )5 
 
 O.61 
 
 0.45 
 
 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 » M 
 
 I.I8 
 
 0.87 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.9I 
 
 0.67 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 5J » 
 
 1.36 
 
 1. 00 
 
 
 
 J) )) 
 
 
 » » 
 
 1.27 
 
 o.93 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 J> » 
 
 I.67 
 
 1.27 
 
 
 
 „ „ 
 
 
 » )) 
 
 1. 00 
 
 0.73 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » 5J 
 
 0.77 
 
 0.57 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 I.36 
 
 1. 00 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » » 
 
 O.86 
 
 0.63 
 
 
 
 Worn by men. 
 
 
 )) )) 
 
 1.38 
 
 I.OI 
 
 
 
 " 
 
102 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 236 
 237 
 238 
 239 
 240 
 241 
 242 
 243 
 244 
 245 
 246 
 247 
 248 
 249 
 250 
 
 251 
 
 252- 
 255 
 
 256- 
 259 
 
 260 
 
 261 
 262 
 
 263 
 264 
 
 265- 
 268 
 
 Cotton Clothing, continued: 
 
 Wadded Coat 
 
 Trousers 
 
 Lined Leggings. 
 
 3 Wadded Collars 
 
 Collar 
 
 Cap 
 
 Knitted Cap. 
 
 „ Skull Cap 
 
 „ Head-band.... 
 > 4 pairs Stockings 
 
 J- 4 pairs Knitted Socks. 
 
 1 pair Leggings , 
 
 >- 2 pairs Mittens , 
 
 J- 2 pairs Shoes 
 
 t 4 » » 
 
 
 5) 5) 
 
 » m m 
 
 ,, MM 
 
 » 5) 
 
 » ^m 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
CATALOGUE OP THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 103 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 
 Name in 
 
 Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hh Its. 
 
 Chang. 
 Ch'ih. 
 Ts'wn. 
 
 O Eh 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 
 ^m j 
 
 mm 
 
 I.80 
 
 i-33 
 
 
 
 Worn by men. 
 
 
 5> 
 
 5) 
 
 O.50 
 
 o.37 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » 
 
 }> 
 
 O.34 I O.25 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 )) 
 
 » 
 
 0-35 
 
 0.26 
 
 
 
 ., 
 
 
 )J 
 
 » 
 
 O.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » 
 
 5> 
 
 O.91 
 
 0.67 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 
 » 
 
 )> 
 
 O.08 
 
 0.06 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 )) 
 
 )> 
 
 O.04 
 
 0.03 
 
 
 
 Worn by men. Stiffened with pasteboard. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 )J 
 
 O.14 
 
 O.IO 
 
 
 
 Worn by men in deep mourning, of which 
 this cap represents one grade. 
 
 
 JJ 
 
 » 
 
 O.I4 
 
 O.IO 
 
 
 
 " 
 
 
 » 
 
 )) 
 
 O.I4 
 
 O.IO 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 )> 
 
 5> 
 
 O.I8 
 
 0.13 
 
 
 
 Worn in cold weather by watchmen, etc. 
 
 
 » 
 
 ))' 
 
 O.18 
 
 0.13 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 J) 
 
 » 
 
 O.08 
 
 0.06 
 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 » 
 
 5) 
 
 O.04 
 
 0.03 
 
 
 
 Worn by young children. 
 
 
 )> 
 
 5) 
 
 O.O4 
 
 0.03 
 
 
 
 Worn by old persons. 
 
 
 >J 
 
 » 
 
 I.I4 
 
 0.84 
 
 
 
 Worn by men. 
 
 
 )» 
 
 )) 
 
 O.23 
 
 0.17 
 
 
 
 Worn generally. 
 
 
 >J 
 
 )) 
 
 O.45 
 
 o-33 
 
 
 
 Worn by old men. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 )> 
 
 0.22 
 
 0.16 
 
 
 
 Worn generally. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 )) 
 
 I.29 
 
 0.95 
 
 
 
 Worn by men during mourning. 
 
 
 )) 
 
 >> 
 
 2.21 
 
 1.62 
 
 
 
 Worn by men. 
 
104 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 No. 
 
 AETICLE. 
 
 Place of Production- 
 
 Narae in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 269 
 
 270 
 271 
 
 272 
 273 
 
 274 
 
 275 
 
 276 
 
 277 
 
 278 
 
 279 
 
 280 
 
 281 
 
 282 
 
 283 
 
 284 
 
 285 
 
 286 
 
 287 
 
 288 
 
 289 
 
 290 
 
 291 
 
 292 
 
 293 
 
 Cotton Clothing, continued: — 
 
 1 pair Clogs 
 
 J- 2 pairs Shoes 
 
 > 2 „ Boots 
 
 Cotton and Silk Mixture 
 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
 Hsich'iao 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 105 
 
 Province 
 
 and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 REMAKES. 
 
 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 60S 
 
 6 £ 
 
 
 
 m-M 
 
 mm 
 
 O.31 
 
 O.23 
 
 
 
 Worn in wet weather. 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 55 
 
 I.44 
 
 I.06 
 
 ... 
 
 
 Worn by women. 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 )) 
 
 2.30 
 
 I.69 
 
 
 ... 
 
 Worn by officials during mora 
 
 ■ning. 
 
 
 j? 
 
 m 
 
 1.86 
 
 i-37 
 
 2 
 
 1 6 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 
 
 
 5) 
 
 » 
 
 2.54 
 
 1.87 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 5) 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 ., 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 2.54 
 
 1.87 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 1.86 
 
 i-37 
 
 2 
 
 1 6 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 J) 
 
 55 
 
 2.54 
 
 1.87 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 5) 
 
 5) 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 )) 
 
 55 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 2.18 
 
 1.60 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 » 
 
 55 
 
 2.18 
 
 1.60 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 2.18 
 
 1.60 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 2.54 
 
 1.86 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 >J 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 )J 
 
 J) 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 ,. 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 J) 
 
 2.18 
 
 1.60 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 J) 
 
 55 
 
 1.97 
 
 1.45 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 )J 
 
 55 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 1.97 
 
 1.45 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 55 
 
 2.18 
 
 1.60 
 
 2 
 
 1 3 
 
 „ 
 
 
io6 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 AKTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 294 
 295 
 296 
 297 
 298 
 299 
 300 
 301 
 
 302 
 303 
 304 
 305 
 306 
 307 
 308 
 309 
 310 
 311 
 312 
 313 
 314 
 315 
 316 
 317 
 
 Cotton and Silk Mixture 
 
 Saronp; 
 
 10 „ 
 
 4 „ 
 
 5 „ 
 7 „ 
 5 » 
 2 » 
 1 » 
 1 » 
 1 » 
 1 „ 
 
 «1 
 
 Velvet . 
 
 
 
 
 nd Silk Rraid 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^mmm 
 
 m&nm 
 
 t^Wi 1 
 
 Kwangtung, Hsich'iao 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 107 
 
 Province 
 
 and Town. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Width. 
 
 
 ! 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 HTc.Tts. 
 
 a 
 6 
 
 
 
 & 
 
 6 £ 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 Jt£ M 
 
 2.l8 
 
 I.60 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 3 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 
 >) 
 
 )) 
 
 2.27 
 
 I.67 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 3 
 
 ,, 
 
 " 4 
 
 Knu 
 
 2.04 
 
 I.50 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 „ 
 
 ?) 
 
 >> 
 
 2.04 
 
 I-SO 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 „ 
 
 )> 
 
 >) 
 
 4-53 
 
 3-33 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 >> 
 
 >> 
 
 4-53 
 
 3-33 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 „ 
 
 >> 
 
 » 
 
 9.07 
 
 6.67 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 Manufactured for export to Straits and India; 
 used for covering furniture. 
 
 » 
 
 )> 
 
 1.63 
 
 1.20 
 
 O 
 
 S 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 The sarong is the only article of dress worn 
 in many parts of Malaya ; it is worn over 
 the shoulder and round, the middle. 
 
 » 
 
 55 
 
 0.91 
 
 0.67 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 6 
 
 „ 
 
 5J 
 
 )j 
 
 0.82 
 
 0.60 
 
 O 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 1 5 
 
 ,, 
 
 >y 
 
 wii 
 
 1.96 
 
 1.44 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 4 
 
 Used for clothing. 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 9-97 
 
 7-33 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 4 
 
 ,, 
 
 » 
 
 >) 
 
 9-97 
 
 7-33 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 4 
 
 „ 
 
 " J 
 
 ftUHift 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 Each roll 14 ch'ih. Used for trimming gen- 
 erally. 
 
 » 
 
 J> 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 14 
 
 
 
 
 
 o T % 
 
 .. 
 
 » 
 
 5) 
 
 1.S1 
 
 1-33 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 i/o 
 
 Each roll 44 chHlu Used, for trimming gen- 
 erally. 
 
 SJ 
 
 it 
 
 3-4o 
 
 2.50 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 
 
 ofjj 
 
 if is »> it 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 2.22 
 
 1.63 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 o T % 
 
 »> )> if »i 
 
 » 
 
 )> 
 
 o.37 
 
 0.27 
 
 22 
 
 
 
 
 
 O Oj% 
 
 .. 
 
 5> 
 
 J> 
 
 0.23 
 
 0.16 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 O Oft 
 
 » 
 
 » 
 
 )) 
 
 o.37 
 
 0.27 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 O O& 
 
 Used for trimming generally. 
 
 )) 
 
 » 
 
 0. 10 
 
 0.07 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 o& 
 
 „ 
 
 It 
 
 )J 
 
 0.54 
 
 0.40 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 0/0 
 
 " 
 
 >) 
 
 )» 
 
 0.1 1 
 
 0.08 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 O O^g 
 
 „ 
 
io8 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 318 
 319 
 320 
 321 
 322 
 323 
 324 
 325 
 
 326 
 327 
 328 
 329 
 330 
 331 
 332 
 333 
 334 
 335 
 336 
 337 
 338 
 
 339 
 340 
 
 1 roll Cotton and Silk Braid . 
 
 3 Cotton and Silk Foot Bandages 
 
 2 » 5J » 5) 
 
 3 „ » Belts 
 
 3 >j » )» 
 
 2 » 
 
 Sarong 
 
 ttffilff 
 
 a; 
 
 6 rolls Cotton and Silk Braid interwoven 
 with Imitation Gold Thread. 
 
 Cotton, Raw. 
 
 m 
 
 $$ 
 
 %umn&m 
 
 ffi£ 
 
 Kwangtung, Canton 
 
 India, Bombay 
 „ Bengal .. 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 109 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 O o E-< 
 
 O E-t 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 
 mm 
 
 EPJ&B Pil* 
 
 0.33 
 
 0.24 
 
 0.16 
 
 O.I I 
 
 0.42 
 
 0.31 
 
 0.30 
 
 0.22 
 
 0.76 
 
 0.56 
 
 0.4s 
 
 0.33 
 
 0.34 
 
 0.25 
 
 1.54 
 
 i-i3 
 
 2.49 
 
 1.83 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 1.81 
 
 1-33 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 0.59 
 
 o.43 
 
 2.62 
 
 i-93 
 
 7.25 
 
 5-33 
 
 4.08 
 
 3.00 
 
 2.04 
 
 1.50 
 
 2.04 
 
 1.50 
 
 1. 18 
 
 0.87 
 
 2.04 
 
 1.50 
 
 0.50 
 
 0.36 
 
 0.65 
 
 0.48 
 
 0.64 
 
 0.47 
 
 440 
 440 
 
 025 
 
 028 
 
 050 
 050 
 040 
 o 4 s 
 
 082 
 080 
 o 7 5 
 ° 5 5 
 
 4 5 
 060 
 060 
 077 
 
 1 1 o 
 
 I I o 
 I I o 
 O I I 
 
 14 4 o 
 
 O Offr 
 
 o o& 
 
 O r T 2 
 
 o o/o- 
 
 o o T 6 o 
 
 o^ 
 
 1 9 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 3 
 
 1 3 
 
 3 2 
 
 1 9 
 
 2 8 
 2 8 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 6 
 
 1 6 
 
 O Ofl 
 
 Used for trimming generally. 
 
 Used for binding the feet of Chinese girls. 
 
 Cotton and silk mixture interwoven with 
 imitation gold thread. For use, see 
 No. 301. 
 
 Used for trimming generally. 
 
no 
 
 NEW OKLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 No. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production - 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 341 
 342 
 
 343 
 344 
 345 
 
 346 
 347 
 348 
 
 349 
 350 
 351 
 
 352 
 353 
 354 
 355 
 356 
 357 
 358 
 359 
 360 
 361 
 362 
 
 Cotton Yarn, 1st Quality 
 2nd „ 
 
 1st 
 2nd 
 
 Grs 
 
 Thread 
 
 Net Bags 
 
 Papoose Bag 
 
 Palampore or Wadded Quilt. 
 
 Bed Quilt 
 
 sscloth, Unbleached 
 
 Bleached 
 
 m 
 
 & 
 
 mm 
 is** 
 
 mm®£ 
 
 ;6 
 
 India, Bombay 
 „ Bengal .. 
 
 Great Britain. 
 
 Kwangtung, Hsintsao 
 „ Canton.... 
 „ Hsich'iao.. 
 „ Canton.... 
 
 „ Swatow.... 
 
 „ Shihch'iao. 
 
 „ Kuching .. 
 
 „ Chiangts'un 
 
 „ Kuchen 
 
 » » 
 
 „ Swatow. 
 
 „ Kiungchow 
 
 „ KuchSn 
 
 „ Shat'ang ... 
 
 „ Swatow 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Province and Town, 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Value. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Hk.Tts. 
 
 Length. 
 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 wmm mm 
 
 m w* 
 
 JSt 
 
 ,, imn 
 
 ifrfit 
 
 p3t 
 tt*f 
 
 1.87 
 1.82 
 
 2.17 
 2.07 
 0.91 
 1.20 
 1.81 
 0.18 
 
 2.22 
 0.62 
 2.27 
 
 am 
 
 }> a 
 
 i-39 
 
 i-34 
 
 1.59 
 1.52 
 0.67 
 0.88 
 
 1-33 
 0.13 
 
 1.63 
 
 0.45 
 1.67 
 
 17 5 o 10 
 
 1.09 
 
 0.80 
 
 780 
 
 0.72 
 
 o-53 
 
 520 
 
 3-63 
 
 2.67 
 
 10 
 
 544 
 
 4.00 
 
 970 
 
 4.80 
 
 3-53 
 
 9 3o 
 
 2.72 
 
 2.00 
 
 10 6 
 
 6.16 
 
 4-53 
 
 9 7o 
 
 n-33 
 
 8-33 
 
 10 2 
 
 2.99 
 
 2.20 
 
 980 
 
 1.63 
 
 1.20 
 
 240 
 
 2.27 
 
 1.67 
 
 680 
 
 1 5 
 
 7 
 
 1 °nr 
 1 1 
 
 1 u io 
 
 I I-4r 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 1 
 
 [ ro- 
 
 Used for carrying clothes, etc. 
 
 Used by women of the poorer class in 
 southern China for carrying infants on 
 the back. 
 
 Used as a bed cover. 
 
 Also used by travellers for wrapping up 
 their bedding. 
 
 Used principally for mosquito netting by 
 the poorer class ; also in making strainers 
 for beancurd ; also, to a limited extent, 
 for silkworms to spin their cocoons on. 
 
 Used for mosquito curtains. 
 Used for mourning apparel. 
 Used for summer clothing. 
 
 Used principally for mosquito curtains, also 
 for summer clothing. 
 
112 
 
 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 ARTICLE. 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Place of Production — 
 
 Name in English. 
 
 363 
 364 
 365 
 366 
 367 
 368 
 369 
 370 
 371 
 372 
 373 
 374 
 375 
 376 
 377 
 378 
 379 
 380 
 381 
 382 
 383 
 384 
 385 
 
 Grasscloth, Bleached 
 
 Dyed. 
 
 m&mft 
 
 11 5) 
 
 11 11 
 
 %3M 
 
 2 pairs Grasscloth Handkerchiefs, Silk $$|ll Jl'ilj-^'riJ 
 Embroidered. 
 
 2 pairs Grasscloth Handkerchiefs, ^|||Jj[^j^lfj 
 Hemp Embroidered. 
 
 Kwangtung, Kuchen 
 „ Shat'ang 
 
 Swatow... 
 Kuchen .. 
 
 » 
 Shat'ang 
 
 Ch'aolien 
 
 » 
 Kuchen... 
 Swatow... 
 Shat'ang 
 
 » 
 Ch'aolien 
 Shat'ang 
 Canton... 
 
CATALOGUE OF THE CANTON COLLECTION. 
 
 113 
 
 Province and Town. 
 
 Name in Chinese. 
 
 Amer. 
 Gold $. 
 
 Ilk. TU 
 
 Length. 
 
 o o fci 
 
 5 E-< 
 
 REMARKS. 
 
 mam 
 
 » !J 
 
 
 }) )> 
 
 J) » 
 
 
 » w 
 
 » m\ 
 
 m 
 
 6.35 
 8.16 
 12.69 
 
 14-55 
 
 22.21 
 
 2.27 
 
 5-71 
 
 8.16 
 
 8.61 
 
 10.88 
 
 u-33 
 2.99 
 
 3-17 
 
 14.05 
 7.25 
 7.25 
 4.08 
 3-09 
 8.61 
 
 3-17 
 2.27 
 1.80 
 2.72 
 
 4.67 
 6.00 
 
 9-33 
 10.70 
 
 16.33 
 1.67 
 4.20 
 6.00 
 
 6.33 
 8.00 
 
 8-33 
 2.20 
 
 2-33 
 10.33 
 5-33 
 5-33 
 3.00 
 2.27 
 6-33 
 2-33 
 1.67 
 
 i-33 
 2.00 
 
 980 
 10 1 o 
 10 4 o 
 10 2 o 
 
 IO I o 
 
 890 
 
 IOOO 
 IOOO 
 10 3 o 
 10 1 o 
 10 3 o 
 
 4 7o 
 460 
 
 10 o o 
 760 
 8 1 o 
 7 3 
 
 5 5 o 
 10 o o 
 
 o 1 5 
 
 1 5 
 014 
 
 1 o s 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 2 
 
 1 5 
 
 I Ot"7V 
 
 1 r 
 1 ift 
 1 iA 
 
 1 °to 
 1 1 
 1 1 
 
 1 °is 
 
 I O-S- 
 I O- 8 - 
 
 1 Ito 
 
 1 I A 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 4 
 
 1 3t% 
 
 1 4 
 
 Used for summer clothing. 
 
 Used for summer clothing. 
 
 Used for summer clothing for children. 
 Used for summer clothing. 
 
 Made for export to foreign countries ; not 
 used by the Chinese. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 Memorandum on the Importation of Cotton Yarn into 
 the Province of Kwangtung. 
 
 Among the forms in which cotton is imported into China, that of 
 yarn demands some attention. It is imported for the purpose of being 
 woven into cloth by Chinese looms, and the first query that suggests 
 itself would seem to be, why should foreign yarn be imported instead 
 of cloth, when the latter can be had for so little, and when, with all 
 the abundance and cheapness of labour in China, weaving by hand, 
 the only mode as yet practised to any appreciable extent in the 
 country, must be a more expensive process than weaving by machinery? 
 To answer this a comparison must be drawn between the native cloth, 
 which the Chinese weave from their own material, and the cloth which 
 they so largely import from abroad. The former excels in point of 
 durability, while the latter possesses the advantage of cheapness and 
 finish; in other words, the one is expensive and good, and the other 
 cheap and inferior, while better looking. Bearing this difference in 
 mind it becomes easy enough to understand that the Chinese should 
 wish to have a fabric which partakes of the good qualities of their own 
 and the foreign cloth combined. As a matter of fact, neither foreign 
 nor native cotton yarn is woven by itself to any great extent in this 
 province, the former being used as warp and the latter as weft, the 
 outcome being a fabric which is more durable than foreign-made cloth 
 and of better texture than that made entirely from. native material, 
 though it may not possess the very fine appearance of the one nor yet 
 the great durability of the other, while as regards cost it holds a position 
 between the two. A further advantage — and the weight given to this 
 consideration is characteristic of Chinese economy — is that after being- 
 worn out in the shape of clothes it can still be utilised by being cut 
 up to make the layers of which the thick soles of Chinese cheap shoes 
 
Il6 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1 884-5. 
 
 are partly constituted, a use to which the flimsy foreign stuff that 
 makes up the greater portion of the cotton goods imported into China 
 is not capable of being put. As regards the wearing properties of the 
 half-native half-foreign cloth, it is said that it will wear twice as long 
 as the pure foreign material ; the difference between the two is, in fact, 
 quite similar to that which used to cause discussion in days gone by 
 when the primitive spinning-wheel was giving way before modern 
 machinery. But in all countries what finds favour with the masses is 
 that which looks well and is cheap, though it may not prove half as good 
 in the end as something else which presents a plain appearance and costs 
 more to begin with. This is the reason why cheap cotton goods, both 
 yarn and cloth, enjoy such a good market in China; for it must be 
 remembered that cotton clothing is chiefly worn by the poorer classes 
 of Chinese, the rich generally wearing silk or grasscloth, at least in so far 
 as outer garments are concerned. A suit of purely native cotton costs 
 more than very many of the poorer Chinese can well afford to pay at 
 one time, while the two, or it may be three, suits of foreign stuff which it 
 takes to last as long as the other are a more convenient investment, as 
 only requiring the payment of small sums, though at frequent intervals. 
 It is here that the foreign and native mixture steps in and offers itself 
 as an alternative, and those who are not very poor generally adopt the 
 middle course. 
 
 On reference to the Trade Returns from the ports of Swatow, Can- 
 ton, Kiungchow, and Pakhoi, it will be found that over 153,000 piculs of 
 cotton yarn and thread were imported in foreign vessels into the province 
 of Kwangtung during the year 1883. This was, however, almost entirely 
 yarn, as thread is imported only in very small quantities. It is said 
 that one picul of yarn will make when woven about 75 suits of unlined 
 summer clothes; 153,000 multiplied by 75 gives 11,475,000, which 
 may therefore be taken as the number of people which might have 
 been provided with a suit of clothes each from last year's importation 
 of yarn. As has already been stated, however, neither foreign nor 
 native yarn is, as a rule, woven by itself; so the above number may be 
 doubled, and such being done, we find that last year's importation 
 represents about 23,000,000 suits of clothes. A liberal allowance to a 
 Chinese would be three suits of clothes a year, so if we divide by this 
 number we find that the quantity of cotton yarn imported last year 
 into Kwangtung would, with the native mixtm'e, have clothed about 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT. — APPENDIX. 117 
 
 7,000,000 of the inhabitants of the province. The population of 
 Kwangtung has been variously given at from 15,000,000 to 20,000,000. 
 Thus one-half or one-third of the people of this province would have 
 been clothed by cloth made half from foreign yarn, and as there would 
 have been enough to clothe a great part of the remainder in the cotton 
 piece goods imported, it becomes manifest that foreign cotton goods 
 find a very fair share of patronage in South China. It must, however, 
 be understood that these statements are advanced for the purpose of 
 exhibiting in a readily understood form the capabilities of the cotton 
 goods importation, and not as representing what actually occurred. In 
 the first place, a good deal of the material imported would be taken to 
 other provinces inland for sale ; and, in the second place, what would 
 be retained in the province would be used to some extent for other 
 purposes than clothing. Hence the figures must be accepted with some 
 reservation, but at the same time they may be regarded as a fail- 
 approach to facts, and principally for this reason. The importation 
 figures are taken from the Customs Returns of Trade. These, however, 
 only deal with the trade in foreign vessels, and take no notice, as a 
 rule, of the trade in native junks, which, with rare exceptions, report 
 to the native department of the Customs. In Kwangtung the quantity 
 of foreign goods imported by these junks is very considerable, but as 
 the native department does not compile statistics of trade, it is not 
 possible to say how much it may amount to. Again, it must be borne 
 in mind that in Kwangtung the weather is hot for eight months of the 
 year, and that the ordinary suit of clothes worn among the lower classes 
 consists simply of a jacket and trousers. In the north of China, where 
 the cold season lasts nearly eight months, more clothes have to be worn, 
 and these must be lined as well as wadded, to keep out the cold, thus 
 requiring much more cloth. Consequently, the foregoing calculations 
 must be regarded as only of local significance. When the population 
 of all China, with its varying requirements as to clothing, is considered 
 in conjunction with the total importation of cotton goods into the 
 country, the demand for these will not seem so proportionately great. 
 
 The cotton yarn imported from abroad into Kwangtung comes 
 partly from Great Britain and partly from India. The British article 
 is the better of the two, but that from India is cheaper, though inferior 
 in finish, and is consequently better suited to the requirements of an 
 economical people such as the Chinese. 
 
Il8 NEW ORLEANS EXPOSITION, 1884-5. 
 
 The following figures show the quantity of cotton yarn and thread 
 imported into the province of Kwangfcung through its Treaty Ports in 
 foreign vessels each year from 1874 to 1883, both inclusive : — 
 
 1874. 
 
 Picicls 48,110 
 
 1879. 
 
 Piculs 97,072 
 
 1875 • 
 
 >) 
 
 68,2 22 
 
 1880 . 
 
 • » 93,95<5 
 
 1876 . 
 
 • )) 
 
 81,684 
 
 1881 . 
 
 „ 116,698 
 
 1877 . 
 
 >, 
 
 76,582 
 
 1882 . 
 
 • „ 132,256 
 
 1878 . 
 
 )> 
 
 74,9 J 4 
 
 1883. 
 
 » !53>535 
 
 During the first two years of the series the only ports open to 
 foreign trade in Kwangtung were Canton and Swatow. In 1876 Kiung- 
 chow was added, and in 1877 Pakhoi. These latter import considerably. 
 On looking at the above figures it is seen that the importation of cotton 
 yarn into the province has increased greatly from what it was 10 years 
 ago, and it would seem that the increase has been somewhat detri- 
 mental to the market for piece goods. 
 
 The following figures are introduced as a kind of contrast to those 
 just given; they show that since 1874 cotton piece goods have not 
 gained very much ground in the province. They give the quantities 
 of cotton piece goods of all kinds imported at the Treaty Ports of 
 Kwangtung in foreign vessels from 1874 to 1883, both inclusive : — 
 
 1874 
 
 Pieces 
 
 649,437 
 
 1879 
 
 Pieces 
 
 726,769 
 
 1875 . 
 
 >> 
 
 624,128 
 
 l880 . 
 
 ,, 
 
 813,008 
 
 1876 , 
 
 • )> 
 
 690,744 
 
 l88l 
 
 • ,) 
 
 818,254 
 
 1877 . 
 
 )5 
 
 680,449 
 
 l882 . 
 
 ,, 
 
 790,251 
 
 1878 
 
 • )) 
 
 583,438 
 
 1883 , 
 
 • ,, 
 
 775>4oo 
 
 Taking 35 yards as the average length of a piece of cotton cloth, 
 "and 7 yards as equal to one suit of clothes, it will appear that the 
 775,400 pieces of cotton cloth imported into Kwangtung in 1883 would 
 have represented, roughly speaking, about 4,000,000 suits of clothes, 
 a much less quantity than might have been made from the yarn 
 imported. 
 
 It would scarcely be right to assign so much importance to the 
 increase in yarn as to assert that it has been wholly responsible for the 
 almost stationary condition of the piece goods importation. Still, in 
 view of the figures given above, it is safe to consider that it has been 
 responsible to a certain extent, though it is quite possible that other 
 causes have contributed their share also. 
 
CHINESE EXHIBIT. — APPENDIX. 119 
 
 Whether the increase in the importation of yam will continue or 
 not, depends very much on circumstances. If the Chinese take to 
 foreign machinery, they ought to be able to manufacture good enough 
 yarn from the cotton they grow themselves, and yarn, too, that ought 
 to be cheaper than that Avhich has to bear all the expense of a long- 
 voyage. The British article would, however, still possess an advantage 
 that cannot be taken away from it. It is spun from a raw material 
 which is longer in the staple than that produced in China, and being 
 consequently stronger will always be sure of meeting with a certain 
 amount of patronage. 
 
 Custom House, 
 Canton, 4th November 1884. 
 
i a c„ Ti7 
 
k a 
 
 *2 
 
 P ! 
 
 ■<Xii 
 
 11 
 
JIT.-MTSCELLANEOUS SERIES. 
 
 <* 
 
 No. 
 
 1. 
 
 »> 
 
 2. 
 
 >> 
 
 3, 
 
 it 
 
 4. 
 
 >» 
 
 5. 
 
 
 6. 
 
 7.— 
 
 8.- 
 
 9. 
 
 10. 
 
 11, 
 12. 
 
 „ 13, 
 
 „ 14. 
 
 The Tariff Tables Published 
 
 Ten Years' Statistics '. „ 
 
 Vienna Exhibition Catalogue ,, 
 
 Philadelphia .. .. „ 
 
 Paris „ ., >? 
 
 List op Chinese Lighthouses, etc. : Twelfth 
 Issue (First Tssue, 1872) „ 
 
 List of Chinese Lighthouses, etc. : Chinese 
 Version of the Twelfth Issue (First Issue, 
 
 1877) 
 
 General Tariff List » 
 
 Berlin Fishery Exhibition Catalogue ,,. 
 
 -Names of Places on the China Coast and 
 the Yangtze River: First Issue ,., 
 
 London Fisheries Exhibition Catalogue.... ,, 
 
 -Rules regarding Notarial Acts to be per- 
 formed by Commissioners of Customs, and 
 Forms of Protest : Second Issue (First 
 Issue, 1882: Circular No. 187) „ 
 
 -London Health Exhibition Catalogue „ 
 
 -New Orleans Exposition Catalogue ,, 
 
 1868. 
 
 i373- 
 i873- 
 1876. 
 1878. 
 
 T884. 
 
 1884. 
 1879. 
 1880. 
 
 1882. 
 1883. 
 
 1883. 
 1884. 
 1884. 
 
 w 
 
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