Henry Disston & Sons, Inc. The DISSTON LUMBERMAN'S HANDBOOK A practical book of information on the construction and care of saws. BEG.U.S.PAT.OFf, Copyrighted October, 1921, by HENRY DISSTON & SONS, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Henry Disston & Sons, Inc. Philadelphia, U. S. A. NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO SEATTLE CHICAGO MEMPHIS BANGOR, ME. CINCINNATI NEW ORLEANS PORTLAND, ORE. BOSTON VANCOUVER, B. C. SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA CANADIAN WORKS : TORONTO, CANADA ^, and 6. No. 1 being the largest, is designed principally for the heavy timber of the Pacific Coast. The No. 4>^ and No. 6 are the smallest sizes, permitting the insertion of the maximum number of 48 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK teeth for board saw mills carrying high feeds and also being suitable for edgers, bolters, and lath saws. For general sawing, hard and soft-woods, in small and medium-sized mills the No. 33 pattern cannot be excelled. This size is also used for rift saws, heavy edger saws, and bench saws. The No. 2 pattern, though used largely in the firs and pines of the Pacific Coast, is useful for general sawing of both hard and soft woods where a greater amount of throat room is desired than the No. 33 provides. This is a good all around tooth and has proved its efficiency in the Southern States and in the Middle West. HOLDERS In sawing sandy or gritty logs, the edges of the inner circles of the holders are liable to wear and become rounded. This permits a portion of the dust to pass down between the side of the saw and the log, instead of being properly chambered and carried out of the cut. The tendency then is to create friction and heat, which is detrimental to good work. To prevent this, the edges of the inner circles of the holders should be filed across and kept square. Holders which have become thin from long usage should be discarded and replaced. The swaged pattern of holder, which is one-and-one-half gauges heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, will be supplied if specified. Holders of the swaged and slotted pattern are made in all sizes for those who prefer the slotted pattern of holder. SPECIAL HOLDERS When the sockets holding the shanks are worn large it is advisable to order the special sizes of shanks or holders designed to take up this wear. There are two special sizes; one is 1/64'' and the other 1/32" larger in the circle than regular sizes. Unless the shanks fit snugly, they are liable to break or cause the points to break. A shank that has become strained or compressed through accident can be expanded by removing it from the saw, laying it on an anvil, and striking it sharply on both sides, on the inner circle; consequently there is no reason for the shanks or bits ever fitting loosely. It must be noted, however, in hammering the shank, unless an even number of blows are struck on each side, the shankywilljbe bent out of shape. 49 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK GUIDES Millmen often make the mistake of setting the guides too close to the rim when operating inserted tooth saws. This is an important item, and the operator should see that the guides CLEAR THE HOLDERS by at least one-quarter of an inch. Otherwise the saw will run unsteadily and the holders and points will be turned out of place. INSERTING NEW POINTS Oil the grooves carefully. Place the new point or bit squarely on the head of the shank. If the point should not turn into position readily, lift the wrench enough to permit the ball or head of the holder to assume its proper place in the point; then start again and the point will be found to move steadily into position. Do not use undue force, the stops should meet lightly, and no additional pressure should be applied to the wrench when the heel of the bit has reached the shoulder. SHARPENING CHISEL-POINTS The points or bits should be sharpened or filed without taking them out of the saw, thereby preventing unnecessary wear. The temper of these points is such that they may be sharpened by the use of a good file. The following illustration shows the file specially designed for this purpose. CHISEL-POINT FILE Made 8, 9, and 10 inches in length Fig. 42 Most of the filing should be done on the front or the throat of the tooth. It is only necessary to file enough on the back to remove the burr. Very little work is required to sharpen points. Care should be exercised to keep the cutting edge at right angles to the side of the saw. Do not use a square-cornered file, as this will leave a sharp nick under the point. A bit left in this condition is liable to break and injure the blade. 50 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Fig. 43-B Fig, 43-C Fig. 43-A shows the point when new. Fig. 43-B shows the point when it has been properly filed until worn out. Fig. 43-C shows the point improperly filed, which method weakens it. Should a bit be broken by accident, the new one must be dressed to the length and width of those in the saw. SWAGING POINTS If the bits are to be swaged, the work should be done with the Conqueror Swage and a light hammer, drawing out the corners just enough to square the points; then the set should be dressed with a side file. Relieve the corners so as to give proper clearance. In swaging, be careful not to strike hard enough to upset the shoulder or strain the shank, for the saw is liable to be ruined in this manner. To save the saw, when swaging ' 'Points" it is best to use a swaging plate which may be held in a vise. This, which is prac- ticall}^ a small section of a saw, holds one tooth. It can be sup- plied at small cost. DRESSING POINTS Particular attention is called to the necessity for keeping the cutting edges of the points at the proper width. It is de- sired that this important item may not be lost sight of, since most complaints may be traced to a disregard of this require- ment. If the points are filed so that they are wider behind the cutting edges than on the extreme corners, good work cannot be accomplished. The following diagrams, (Fig. 44) C, D and E, were taken from bits removed from saws, concerning which complaint was made. The reason is at once apparent. Diagrams A and B show two styles of side dressing, either of which is good, depending on the class of work in hand. The spread should be distributed evenly on both sides of the saw. 51 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Tf IIT A B C D E I Fig. 44 WIDTH OF CUTTING-EDGE Chisel-points are made in various widths of cutting-edge. A small booklet, containing a list of these sizes, will be supplied on application. The regular width is furnished, unless direc- tions are given to the contrary. The booklet mentioned gives full instructions on this particular. "FITTING'' SAWS TO CUT FROZEN TIMBER Before starting to cut frozen timber, equip the saw with a new set of swaged holders, laying aside the old ones for summer sawing. This expenditure will be found a paying investment. The swaged holder is a gauge and a half heavier in the throat than the sawplate proper, and is designed to hold and carry out of the cut the finest dust, which would, otherwise, pass down the side of the saw, freeze to the log, and force the saw out of line. For winter work it is not desirable to use a side file, which will leave flat places on the sides of the points parallel to the sides of the saw. Should a side file be used, be careful to see that the bits are ''relieved" behind the points to the extreme edge by giving them clearance through a slight under-cut and back-cut with a hand file. To do successful work in this class of sawing the corners must be sharp. It is possible to use narrower bits than in summer sawing. In some sizes a special short bit, particularly designed for winter work, is made. This short bit is illustrated and described in the pamphlet ''Chisel-Points and Holders." J A number of our customers operate chisel-point saws very " successfully in winter by using worn points, discarded during the summer months; they should be selected in sets of even length so that the saw will be round. The old points may be swaged a trifle. Use no more set than is absolutely necessary. Taper back nicely from the 52 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK points by careful side dressing, with the teeth widest at the extreme points, and do not allow the corners to become round, or the saw will dodge out of the cut, particularly in slabbing. The corners next to the log do most of the cutting, and soon become dull in frozen timber. Consequently it is necessary to watch for this so that the saw will not be allowed to run out of the cut and become strained or buckled. DIRECTIONS FOR ORDERING CHISEL-POINTS AND HOLDERS Every chisel-tooth saw of our manufacture has a shop number, which will be found directly under our brand, midway between the eye and the rim. Invariably give this number when order- ing points and holders. When there is the slightest doubt about sizes, or gauges, or where the shop number cannot be obtained, send a sample tooth or holder (an old one will answer) with the order. The gauge of both teeth and holders should be the same as the saw plate (except in special cases), and this may be Fig. 45. No. 33 chisel tooth, full size I determined by applying a Disston Standard Wire Gauge, which I corresponds exactly to the Stubbs or English Wire Gauge. i To fill an order properly, we must know the size of the I tooth, the gauge, and the width at the cutting edge. Teeth of standard width of cutting-edge are always sent unless other- wise specified. 63 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK The size of the holders or shanks always corresponds with the size of the teeth used. If No. 33-8 gauge teeth are used, the proper size of holder to order is No. 33-8 gauge. In instances of special styles, specify the pattern stamped on the holder in addition to the number and gauge of the tooth, also whether solid, swaged, or swaged and slotted. IMPORTANT NOTICE When returning chisel-tooth saws for repairs please leave all the teeth and holders in place, for they are needed in adjust- ing the tension. Unless teeth and holders are returned we shall supply a new set at regular prices. Be sure to mark the name of the shipper on the case, for purposes of identification. INSERTED TOOTH SAWS NO. 10 PATTERN Fig. 46. No, 10 pattern tooth This style of tooth is sometimes termed the Spaulding Tooth, and is used principally in heavy mills on the Pacific Coast. The No. 10 tooth is made in three sizes suitable for small, medium, and large timber. INSERTED TOOTH RE-SAWS, NO. 16 PATTERN The difficulty occasioned by wearing down or reduction in diameter of re-saws, has created a demand for an inserted tooth 54 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK saw of this class. To supply this want, we are now making re-saws with the improved re-saw inserted tooth, of which the above is a representation. The advantages claimed for this style of saw are numerous, the most important of which is that the original diameter of the saw is retained. This point will readily be seen by all practical operators and sawyers; for the saw must be the proper diameter and thickness at rim and centre to give the best results. If the diameter is decreased, the periphery or cutting edge is brought closer to the heavy centre or flange of the saw, not only cutting out a heavier kerf, but bringing an undue strain upon both saw and machine and causing the pieces being sawed to take a short, sharp spring-off. In sawing short stuff where flanged saws are used, the flange or collar, by its close proximity to the cutting edge of the saw, splits a portion of piece from the bolt instead of sawing it. This gives very unsatisfactory results both as to quality and quantity of work done. Therefore, if the saw is right at the start, by retaining original thickness and size, these difficulties are entirely obviated. To do this, inserted tooth saws must be used, or the solid tooth saw must frequently be replaced. Fig. 47. Inserted tooth saw, No. 16 This saw can be made in gauges from 12 to 17 at the rim. By replacing the teeth when they are worn out the saw is prac- tically renewed at a yery small expense. These saws are no experiment. They have been used for years with satisfactory and economical results, and we give the same warranty with them that we give on all goods bearing our brand. 55 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK INSERTED TOOTH CIRCULAR CROSS-CUT SAWS This style of saw is particularly ad- apted for use in pulp, paper^ shingle, and stave mills, also for slab and slasher saws, and where logs or cants are cut into short lengths or bolts. Thorough tests covering a trial for some years, Fig. 48. Two-prong ^^ ^^^j^ ^^^ ^^^ F.g. 49. Four-prong four-prong patterns, have demonstrated them to be a decided success. The teeth are high in temper, thus giving superior edge-holding quality. They are designed for use only in saws 36 inches in diameter and larger. They are made in 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 gauge only, and can be sharpened readily on an automatic saw sharpener. SPIRAL TOOTH CIRCULAR CUT-OFF SAW Patented May 5, 1914 Fig. 50. Spiral tooth cut-off saws 66 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK A rapid, smooth cutting, easy running saw. Superior to any other form of cut-off saw of inserted tooth type. The teeth are inserted in the blade on spiral lines, which give full clearance to each individual tooth and also perfect clear- ance to the blade in the largest cuts. The manner in which the teeth are inserted in the blade does away with the necessity of setting or springing the teeth for clearance. The only operation for keeping the saw in running order is to sharpen the teeth, which is readily accomplished through the use of any of the standard automatic cut-off saw sharpeners of the proper size. We recommend and guarantee the spiral tooth to give economical and satisfactory service in all kinds of cut-off work on large timber and logs, and particularly where the greatest capacity is required, such as cutting logs into pulp-wood length, stave bolts, and shingle blocks. DIAMOND-POINT INSERTED TOOTH CIRCULAR ICE SAW Patented Nov. 16, 1915 Fig. 51. Diamond-point ice saw This is an improvement on the regular square-bit chisel tooth which has stood the test of time in so many plate and natural ice harvesting plants. 57 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK The diamond-shaped point, through making a pronounced V in the bottom of the groove, centers the cleavage point, and therefore allows the floats and cakes to be barred-off with materially less flanging than is possible when the bottom of the groove is flat or square. INSERTED TOOTH SAWS American Saw Co.*s Designs We continue to manufacture and supply all of the styles of inserted tooth saws and the teeth, bits, springs, or holders, formerly made by the American Saw Company, of Trenton. TRENTON TOOTH, 1894 Style y^. Fig. 52 4 We are prepared to supply the American Tooth, the Trenton Tooth regular, the Trenton Tooth 1894 style, the Brooke Bit and Spring, the Dunbar Tooth, the Risdon Tooth, the High Speed Tooth, the Prosser Tooth, and the Goulding Bit. These teeth are sharpened and dressed the same as a solid tooth saw, and the directions in this handbook for the dressing of sohd tooth saws will apply. The teeth are all ribbed on the back to lessen the amount of swaging necessary. When sharpening, the same cutting angles should be pre- served, and the gullets kept round, either with a round file or by the use of a proper gummer. When changing teeth, first drive them into position by plac- ing a swage on the cutting edge and striking a blow with a light hammer. Care should be exercised not to expand the 58 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK rim of the saw by riveting too tightly, for if this operation is not done properly the tension of he saw will be destroyed. It is only necessary to rivet enough to secure the tooth firmly. The surplus metal must then be chipped off with a cold chisel in order that it may not interfere with the running of the saw. For those who prefer this form of inserted tooth saw to the chisel point, the Trenton Tooth 1894 style is recommended. The Trenton Tooth is made in two sizes. No. 1 (large) and No. 2 (small). 59 SAWS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES SHINGLE AND HEADING SAWS iifUkT OR COUNTtRSUnW. S\DE ,/ Fig. 53-A. Left-hand Fig. 53-B. Right-hand When ordering shingle saws give full specifications, as follows : diameter of saw, in inches, thickness or gauge at centre, thick- ness or gauge at rim, number of teeth, right or left-hand, and speed of saw. If we are to furnish the flange, state size, and maker's name of machine, or send correct and full templet of old flange, giving size and location of holes. If we are to furnish the saw only, send the flange to us that we may fit it to the saw. If you cannot forward the flange, send templet of holes and sample of screw by which to drill and countersink saw. Fig. 54 -A Fig. 54 SCREWS FOR SHINGLE SAWS Particular attention is called to the import- ance of using screws that are suitable to the thickness of the saw. We frequently receive screws as samples by which to drill and counter- sink, that have heads entirely too large for the thickness of the saw, — which require the flange to be countersunk (as shown in Fig. 54-A). This reduces the length of thread in the flange making it impossible to bind the saw firmly to the flange. 60 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Fig. 54-B shows the correct size the screw-heads should be to obtain a good bearing for the screw-heads on the countersink in the saw. The full thickness of the flange is retained for the thread. In no case should screw-heads be deeper than the thickness of the saw. Thin saws require smaller screw-heads than thick saws. FLANGES OR COLLARS for SHINGLE AND HEADING SAWS The flanges to which shingle saws are attached are usually made of cast-iron and are necessarily much heavier and stiffer than the saws. This being the case it is perfectly manifest that, if the faces of the flanges are not true, no saw, no matter how accurately ground or hammered, will be fiat or true when screwed fast to a stiff, untrue flange. Nor can any saw reasonably be expected to do good work under such circumstances. Cast-iron flanges are easily and frequently sprung out-of- true when ''shingle bolts" break loose from the dogs and are jammed between the saw and the frame of the machine. All flanges should be carefully examined before new saws are put on them and if a flange shows out-of-true, it should be sent to the factory for correction. It is always a good plan to send the old flanges when ordering new saws. Then, if the flanges are sprung, the manufacturer will correct the trouble. The charge for this will be merely nominal and nothing in com- parison with the amount that might be wasted, in time and material, trying to run perfect saws on imperfect flanges, be- sides running the risk of ruin- ing the saws. '^v ^■M--fs^-s>s-x-^~^ Fig. 55. Shingle or heading saw showing collar and flange 61 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK SET GAUGE FOR SHINGLE, HEADING, AND VENEER SAWS The illustration represents a gauge for regulating the amount of set for shingle, heading, and jointer saws. As shown, the gauge is a simple con- trivance, having three set screws and two projecting arms, and is operated from the flat side of the saw. The amount of set required being known, first adjust the gauge to the flat side of the saw by use of the bottom screw and side arms. Then turn the upper or gauge screw on the left hand side until it rests lightly on the side of the plate or tooth, — before it has been set. Reverse the gauge screw until the amount of set wanted is shown between the end of the screw and the tooth. Fasten in this position by the jam on the screw, then adjust the right side of the gauge in same manner, and the tool is ready for use. VENEERING SAWS IN SEGMENTS Illustration one-half size Fig. 56 LEFT-HAND RIGHT-HAhfD '"".■q^^s"" Flat or countersunk side Fig. 57 wmM «IK Flat or countersunk side Segment saws are used both for re-sawing boards and planks into thinner stock, and for cutting veneers. But since the advent of the band re-saw, the segment saw is used principally for sawing veneers. Usually the stock from which the veneers are cut is very valuable wood. Therefore manufacturers save as much of the stock as possible by reducing the saw kerf to the finest practicable width. To do this, a large cast iron plate or flange is used to make up the centre of the saw, — the seg- ments being attached to the flange by countersunk screws. The segments, when new, are from 12 to 15 inches deep, usually 7 or 8 gauge at the heel and taper to 19 gauge or thinner 62 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK on the toothed edge. The countersunk side of the whole saw is flat; all the taper of flange and segments being on the other side of the saw. The veneer, only one-eighth inch or less in thickness, readily springs away from the thick part of the flange, leaving it practically free from friction and heat which, while less detrimental to the operating of segments saws, is always objectionable. CONCAVE SAWS Left-hand Fig. 58 Right-hand Concave saws are used in the manufacture of barrel heads, keg heads, etc. They are dished and tempered by an entirely new and patented process, and are of good quality in every respect. To keep concave saws in order, set both sides of the teeth alike. File the front of the teeth square and bevel the backs a trifle. Have the same amount of rake on the fronts of all the teeth. Keep the gullets round. Do not run a dull saw. BILGE AND CYLINDER SAWS Fig. 59. Bilge saws 63 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Fig. 60. Cylinder saw We are prepared to furnish these saws of a superior quality, ground and tempered by our special process. They are made of the best Disston-made steel and will give satisfaction. We repair and re-steel old cylinder or barrel saws. This is a second type of cylinder saw. We make all patterns of cylinder saws, both brazed and open joint, and bottom saws with or without heads. Used for cutting out round holes, also round sections such as tops for shoe brushes, basket bottoms, etc. Fig. 61. Cylinder saw RE-FILING CYLINDER AND BILGE SAWS The instructions and sketch below give a correct rule for filing and keep- ing this class of saws in proper order. While 9/16 of an inch is given as a base for the depth of the teeth, this is subject to vari- ation to suit the different conditions. DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK To Obtain the Correct Depth of Teeth. — See that all the points of the old teeth are even. If not, raze off until they form an even edge. Chalk the surface of the saw to retain a pencil mark, on which scribe a line 9/16 of an inch from the end of the razed points, like the dotted line on the sketch. Proper Pitch for Front of Teeth. — Draw a line 6 inches lengthwise with the axis of the saw. From the end of this step off 4 inches parallel with the edge of the saw. Then draw a line from this point to the point of the tooth which will give the angle or pitch. It is only necessary to lay out two teeth in the manner suggested, after which a tin templet can be cut to correspond with them and the balance of the teeth marked out accordingly. To Shape the Teeth and Gullets a ^ inch round file is generally used, the balance of the tooth being finished with an ordinary mill file, shaping the front and back of the tooth as shown on the sketch. Particular attention should be given to file the gullets round at the bottom, for sharp, square corners will cause breakage. When dressing the teeth, file the cutting edges square with the face or front of the teeth. The set should be merely sufficient to clear the saw, and should extend no more than one-third the depth of the tooth. A uniform set can be obtained by using a metal templet and springing each tooth to this. If a swage set is used on cylinder saw, the work can be done either with an ordinary up-set swage or with an eccentric swage. CHAMFERING SAW These saws are used in conjunction with concave saws for cut- ting a chamfer on the heads of barrels and kegs. The teeth are milled to make a shear cut. The front of the tooth beveled to 60°. These are usually made 6 and 6)4 inches in diameter. Special sizes and patterns will be made on order. Fig. 63 GROOVING SAWS Solid Tooth These useful tools are too well known to require special men- tion. They are ground thinner at the centre than at the rim, so that 65 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK little or no set is required to keep the extreme points of the teeth perceptibly wider than body of the teeth. We make these saws with any thickness at edge or centre that may be wanted. In order- ing grooving saws, state whether they should be straight or hollow ground . If a hollow ground saw is desired give the size of the collar. We manufacture grooving saws with various patterns or shapes of teeth (solid and insert- ^^^- ^^- ^p^"^^ ed) to cut grooves of any width, depth, or special shape on bot- tom or side. Fig. 64. Regular KEYSTONE GROOVER OR DADO HEAD Fig. 66 Inside cutter This head consists of two outside saws, each }/^ inch thick. These operated singly will cut a groove Y^ inch wide. The two saws placed together will cut a groove j4 inch wide. With the addition of inside pieces placed between the saws, grooves of any width may be cut from 5/16 inch up by sixteenths. The construction of this head and its adjustment for various widths of grooves is simple, and it is easily kept in order. 66 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK LOCK-CORNER CUTTERS Fig. 67 These are used for dovetailing and are made in any diameter, thickness, and with any number of teeth, suitable for the vari- ous widths of grooves desired. THIN RIM CIRCULAR SAWS These are used for cutting win- dow frame pockets and on other work where a thin saw is desirable and where it is not practicable to use a saw ground thin all the way to centre. It will be noted that the centre of this saw is left heavier than the rim, to give strength and stiffness. ^^^*AM^4, Fig. 68 67 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK HMMl/i^/i^ %. ''^ ^ Fig. 69 CIRCULAR MITRE SAW With Cleaner Tooth This style of saw can be made either for ripping or cross-cutting. When made for ripping a greater number of cleaner teeth are put in than when made for cross-cutting. This style of saw cuts equally smooth in either ripping or cross-cutting. CIRCULAR MITRE SAWS These saws are ground to run without set. They are especially adapted for smooth cutting, such as cabinet and cigar box work. When ordering, give the size of the centre hole, also the diameter of the collars on the mandrel. m^^^,^^^ 68 HAMMERING AND ADJUSTING CIRCULAR SAWS Tensioning The many inquiries we have in regard to the method of hammering and adjusting the tension in saws has induced us to print a few simple instructions on the subject. If carefully followed these can not be other than a benefit to beginners and others seeking information in this line. All saws of what- ever kind, if properly made, are what we will call ''loose," through or toward the center to suit the speeds and different kinds of work for which they are intended. The object is to keep the edge strained on a straight line, to prevent it from chattering or cutting a zig-zag kerf through the timber. What applies to any one kind of saw in the method of hammering, applies to all. The circular saw, however, is the most difficult to treat. Even after the most careful instructions, practical experience and close observation on the part of those having these saws in charge, is necessary before they can be success- fully hammered. The strain in running and the process of gumming will stretch the edge of the saw and it will begin to run snakey, rattle in the guides, and make bad lumber. However, before concluding that the saw must be hammered to adjust the ten- sion, see if there is not some other cause for the trouble, such as improper lining, the adjustment of the guides, the collars, the saw out of balance, and the dressing of the teeth. These matters, however, are all referred to in this hand-book, and are only mentioned here for those who have not had experience. Our object here is to treat on the hammering necessary to keep the saw true and in proper tension. This means that it must be open sufficiently and properly from the edge toward the centre to suit the motion of the saw and the feed of the mill. The tools required are — anvil, one round-face and one cross- face hammer, two straight-edges — one from 14 to 18 inches long, 69 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK one about 48 inches long — and one try-mandrel. We find that these tools for fitting up saws are being put in many of the large mills. The men who handle the saws are making them- selves proficient in the hammering of the saws to suit their wants. This knowledge they have acquired by perseverance and practical experience, the only way in which it can be obtained. Fig. 71. Appearance of a saw having correct tension In studying the subject of how to hammer circular saws, it would be well for those who have charge of the saws, to examine them when first received for the tension, assuming that they are correctly tensioned for the speed and conditions given when they leave the maker. All the saws made by us are as true as it is possible to make them. Figure 71 shows a saw properly tensioned. It must be remembered, however, that different speeds and feeds call for different adjustment of tension. A saw that has lost its tension appears as that shown in figure 72 and needs hammering with a round-face hammer, along the lines shown in figure 73-A. Before commencing 70 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK to hammer to restore the tension, examine or test the saw all around with a straight edge, as shown by figure 74. If any part of the saw between the rim and the centre falls away from the straight-edge, mark around this spot as shown by figure 73-B, and do not hammer as much, if any, at that place. In testing Fig. 72. Appearance of a saw that has lost its tension for the tension (see Fig. 74), be sure to have the straight-edge at right angles with that part of the saw which rests on the board that extends back from the anvil, and with the opposite edge which is being raised with the left hand. The straight- edge is held and gently pressed down with the right hand. Do not lean the straight-edge to one side but hold it straight up, or it will fall to the form of the saw and not show what is desired. A straight-edge reaching from the centre hole well out to the edge of the saw is the best to use to judge the tension in ham- mering, and when this straight-edge is applied as above, the saw should fall away from a straight line as shown by figure 74. This will show that the centre of the saw is stiff, as it must 71 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK always be to run properly and do good work. If a short straight- edge about 6 inches long were pressed directly over the centre, it would show the saw to be nearly flat or of equal tension at Fig. 74. Testing for tension with a short straight-edge 72 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK that part. It is very seldom necessary to hammer a saw at the part covered by the collars. When ready to hammer, as at figure 73-A, see that the face of hammer is ground so that the blow will be round. Do not strike too heavily. It is better to go over the saw a number of times Fig. 75. Testing with a long straight-edge to see if the saw is true than to hammer too much at one operation. Blows which are too heavy may put the saw in worse shape than it was before it was hammered. 73 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK After hammering one side, mark off the other side and repeat the operation with as near as possible the same number and weight of blows as struck on the first side, and, if possible, directly over them. Now, stand the saw on the floor. Hold it up straight and test it with the long straight-edge as shown Fig. 76. Testing with the saw on a mandrel and marking for further tensioning by figure 75. If the hammering has been done alike on both sides, the saw will be very nearly true. If, however, it shows full on one side and dishing on the other, mark these places that are full. 74 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Place the saw on the anvil with the round side up. Hammer lightly on the full places. Test again with the long straight- edge, and if it appears true, put it on the anvil and test it as explained, to see if it has the proper tension. If not, repeat the operation with the round-faced hammer until desired ten- sion is obtained. After again testing with a long straight-edge, put the saw on the try-mandrel to test it with the short straight- edge for running true. This mandrel must also be true, which can be determined by changing the position of the saw on the Fig. 77. mandrel to see if the same parts of the saw run off and on at the pointer. Mark the places as they run off or on as shown by figure 76, while turning the saw around slowly. Where the saw runs off, lumps will probably be found as at 1, 1, 1, or what is termed twist lumps as at 2, 2, 2 of figure 77, or both may occur. These lumps must be taken out with a cross-face ham- mer and struck as shown in the direction that the straight-edge shows the lumps to run. The saw also may be thrown out of true by lumps running toward the center as No. 3, figure 77; in this case the saw will be on or off at points about opposite each other. This part of the hammering must be done carefully, and if the hammer is of the proper weight and the face properly ground, the saw can be made to run true without altering the ten- sion to any great extent. The testing on the mandrel by an inex- perienced hand should be done with the full side of the saw towards the pointer. Knocking down the lumps from that 75 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK side will make the plate flat. When the saw is fairly flat, test from both sides and operate in Hke manner and get the same results. Now put the saw on the arbor and if for a high motion, it will sway gently from side to side in getting up to full speed and then run steady. However, if it acts as heretofore stated (runs Fig. 78. Testing to see if the saw "falls away" from the straight-edge snakey and rattles in the guides), it needs to be made more open toward the centre. An experienced man will stand the saw on the floor. Taking hold at the top edge he will give it a sudden shake. If the centre vibrates and the edge stands 76 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK stiff, he knows it to be open towards the centre. He will also test by leaning the saw over, to see if it falls away from the straight-edge sufficiently as shown by figure 78. Consequently he knows it to be right before putting it on the arbor. If the saw is too open at the centre it will run from side to side, mostly out of the log, and needs to be hammered as shown by figure 79-A. The distance in from the edge of the saw, to begin ham- mering depends upon how near to the rim the tension has been carried. If the tension (or drop) extends from the centre to Fig. 79-A Fig. 79-B the first circular line in the illustration, hammer in to that line; if to line 2 or 3, hammer to those lines, or the looseness may be irregular, as shown by figure 79-B, and will need to be hammered as shown to regulate the tension. After this is done proceed, as explained, with cross-face hammer to free saw from twists and lumps to make it run true. If the saw should be buckled by an accident, true it with the cross-face hammer as explained by figures 75, 76, and 77 before regulating tension and final truing. Do the same in case of buckling by burned spots or sharp lumps over the collar line. To remove or level these lumps, lay two thicknesses of strong, heavy paper on the anvil, place the saw on the anvil with the spot or lump resting on the paper and by giving a few well directed blows the lumps can be hammered down without expanding the metal as it would if straightened on the bare face of the anvil. 77 1 niSSrON lil'MnKKMAN S HAND BOOK W'luMi lininnuMing with the roiiiui-faco haiumor, work on lines drawn from the edge towards the centre. This will prevent putting twist lumps in the saw and obviate nuieh of the trouble in truing with a cross-face hannner. It is very important to have the blows distributed properly, llanunering too much at one place would cause a loose spot or lump that would be diiftcult to take out. Also it might burn a blue spot on the saw in the cut. If it is necessary to go over the hammering more than once for tension, make additional lines between those lines that have already been hanunered on. The dressing of the faces of the hanuners is important; the round face should be nicely roimded so that when a light blow' is struck on the oiled surface of the saw, it shows about a half inch in diameter. A cross face hannner should show a blow three-quarter by three-eighth inch. A sharp cutting blow is not effective either in knocking down a lump or stretching the metal. In conclusion, we make the following suggestions to beginners: Do not be discouraged by the failure of first attempts. ^Take yourself perfectly familiar with the instructions given and persevere in properly applying them. Carefully study the amount of opening towards the centre that the saw requires for tension to suit the motion and feed used. For regulating this, always use the round-face hammer. The stem of the try-mandrel need be only one inch or less in diameter with bushings used for larger arbor holes. Beginners in the art of hannuering should take a small cir- cular cross-cut saw (one that can be handled easily), for this class of saws, as a rule, is given very little attention in the mills. Go through the operation as instructed and, if successful it will show advancement in the art and the ability to operate on larger saws without the same risk of failure. In regard to large circular saws cracking and breaking over the collar line, — the saws when first put in use have been ham- mered or left open enough for a certain speed. If the speed is reduced while in the cut, the saw will run either in or out of the log (n\ost generally out), forming as it were, a wedge between the saw and headblocks. This eventually will crack or break the saw at or near the collar line by forcing it over this rigid point, hence the importance of maintaining a uniform speed and liaving the tension adapted to it. In mills where steam feed is used great care should be taken not to crowd the feed on the 7S DISSTON LUMlii:JtMAN S HAND JiOOK saw whon it loses its speed from any cause, such as insufficient boiler, en^^ine, or belt power. For if the feed is not decreased in proportion to the speed, the saw will be ''crowded out" and forced over the collar just as though the tension were not prop- erly adjusted. ANVIL, HAMMERS, AND STRAIGHT EDGES FOR REPAIRING SAWS 80 The above are illustrations of the tools necessary for altering or adjusting the tension of circular saws. (See page 69. j SWAGE BAR HAMMER Fig. 81 SWAGE BAR Fig. 82 These illustrations represent our swage bar and hammer for use in swaging the teeth of circular and gang saws. We make the hammers in two sizes; the bars of any shape, size, or weight desired. 79 CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS Fig. 83. No. 000, Pulley on end, self-oiling boxes Our stock mandrels with a pulley on the end or in the centre range in sizes suitable for saws 10 to 38 inches in diameter. Special sizes will be made to order. In order to obtain the best results and the maximum output from circular saws a good mandrel is an absolute necessity. The Disston Mandrels are superior in quality and workmanship. The shafts of steel, accurately turned, possess in the various sizes a safe margin of strength to prevent springing or undue vibration under the heaviest feed or pressure that may be put on the saw they are designed to carry. All collars or flanges are of sufficient diameter to give proper support to the saw, accurately machined and recessed, giving a perfect bearing on the blade. The pulleys are turned up after being placed on the shaft. The boxes, extra long and heavy, are of grey iron, well fitted and babbitted, insuring true balance and smooth running. A mandrel should not be too light for the work to be done or it will spring, causing it to heat. See that the bearings are well proportioned and fitted. All bearings should be at least three times as long as the diameter of the mandrel. The boxes should fit neatly enough to prevent lost motion, but not so tightly on the quarters as to cut off the supply of oil. One of the main causes of mandrels heating is want of the proper lubrication. The cutting of channels from the front side of the bottom hah of the boxes running down and under the shaft to the point of 80 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK hardest bearing will be a great benefit in all cases where self- oiling boxes are not used. Where there are no self-oiling boxes use a good heavy body oil or lubricant. In some mills where there are three bearings on the mandrel, heating is caused by getting bearings out of line when shifting for lead or adjustment. Again, some arbors have the collars for preventing end motion against the box nearest the saw. They should be on the other end, as the bearing nearest the saw has the most strain on it at all times. Heating is often caused by a short and tight belt. Where there is trouble with a heating journal and slipping belt, it would be advisable, as well as economical, to increase the diameter of the receiving pulley on the mandrel, even at the sacrifice of some of the speed. Belts should be of good length, and in all cases should have the strain on the lower side and the slack at the top. When practicable, put a balanced tightener or stress pulley on the top, placing it so that it will give as much lap of belt on the pulley as possible. This will take much strain off the mandrel, rendering it less liable to heat. A saw running badly from other causes, by undue crowding and straining, will frequently cause a mandrel to heat that would otherwise run cool. See suggestions on keeping saw and mill in order. DISSTON CIRCULAR SAW MANDRELS Fig. 84. No. 60, Pulley in center with self-oiling boxes Fig. 85. No. 201, Yoke, with self -oiling boxes 81 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Fig. 86. No. 301, Connected box » The boxes of Nos. 201 and 301 mandrels being yoked or connected makes it impossible for the journals to get out of Ime with each other. The above mandrels are made with a pulley on the right- hand side, and with left-hand thread, unless otherwise ordered. CORDWOOD MANDRELS Fig. 87. No. 400 The No. 400 Cordwood Mandrel is made with a pulley on the left-hand side, and with right-hand thread, unless otherwise ordered. All these mandrels have self-oiling boxes and require no additional attention in this respect for a long time after the oil reservoir has been filled, the oil being carried to the bearings by a ring revolving on the shaft. We also make a mandrel of the same style, but larger in size, called the No. 401. 82 BAND SAWS LEFT-HAND AND RIGHT-HAND SAW MILLS Fig. 88-A Fig. 88-B When ordering band saws, be particular to state whether right or left-hand saws are desired; also give full particulars as to gauge, style of tooth, back edge, etc. If the saws are to be crowning on the back we finish them with 1/64'^ crowning to each 5 feet in length, unless otherwise instructed. Vie will supply, on application, an order blank giving details to be specified. If this is properly filled out it will enable us to make up the saws exactly as required. The above illustration gives a view of two mills, in which the ''hand" of the saw can readily be determined. Fig. 88-A shows the design of a left-hand mill, the log being on the left side of the saw when standing facing the mill. Fig. 88-B shows a right-hand mill, the log being on the right-hand side of saw. HINTS FOR THE OPERATION OF BAND SAWS The life of a band saw depends very largely on the way it is handled, particularly when it is new and before it has been perfectly adapted to the wheels on which it is run. Many men 83 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK expect a new saw to do more work than one that has been perfectly adapted and adjusted to the wheels and the alignment of the mill. This is a mistake, for there are peculiarities about every mill, and until a new saw is adjusted to the face of the wheels, their aligning or tilt, the speed and feed, they cannot be expected to give as good results as the saw which has been adjusted to the mill. There is a certain quality about a new band saw which we can best describe by calling ''surplus" elasticity, and until this quality is brought down to its proper bearing by the judicious use of the hammer and saw stretcher in connection with the first ''runs" of the saw, it will not be at its best. The manu- facturer is not in a position to subject the saws he sends out to the same strains they receive in the mills. Hence a saw will change more on the first run than on any succeeding one. It should be gone over with extra care the first time it comes off the wheels. In fact, if the system were more generally followed of running a saw only half an hour on its first run, then taking it off and touching it up wherever necessary, there would be fewer cracked blades, and the life of all saws would be materially increased. All experienced filers and mill men know that excessive speed, too much tension, uneven tension, case-hardening, or glazing from the emery wheel, gum adhering to face of wheels, crystallization from too heavy hammering, cuts on the surface of the saw from sharp-faced hammers, vibration of either ma- chine or saw, sharp angles in the gullets, imperfectly adjusted guides, backs of saws too long or too short and excessively cross aligned to make them "track," insufficient throat room and hook, and crowding the saw against the guard wheel, will cause it to crack. These are all well-known causes of breakage, yet not- withstanding the knowledge that all band saws are more or less subject to these conditions, too often the cause of fracture is attributed to the quality of the steel or over-hardness. In justice to the saw manufacturer, due consideration should be given the fact, that the saw is only one item, while each and every one of the above named causes is a great factor in pro- ducing cracks in band saws. We receive many letters from band mill owners and oper- ators asking our advice as to the best manner to fit, tension, and operate the saws to attain the best results in respect to quantity and quality of the lumber made and at the same 84 ■ DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK time to get the most wear out of the saws. The best advice we can give our band-mill friends is to employ experienced and skillful bandsaw fitters. Such men, compared with inexperienced bandmen, will save their wages many times over in the quality and quantity of the lumber manufactured, to say nothing of the saw bill. Inexperienced men invariably spoil a large pro- portion of the lumber manufactured and ruin one or more sets of saws before they realize the trouble lies in their lack of knowledge. The services of competent bandsaw fitters are indispensable to the successful operation of bandsaws. It is impossible to lay down a set of rules to fit all cases, or to answer correctly any single one without knowing all the conditions under which the saws are run. However the following para- graphs will give a few of the most important points in reference to the care and management of the band saw which, if followed out carefully, will benefit those who have heretofore neglected any of these points. Vibration is one of the greatest causes of bad results in the use of band saws and, knowing this, particular attention should be given to the wheels and their shafts, the journals and boxes. The wheels must be round and in perfect balance and the shafts must run free in their boxes with no lost motion. Band mill builders are giving less crown to the wheels than they were a few years back, — some are making flat wheels. Each style has its advocates and will give good results when properly handled. As some mill builders give l/64th of an inch crown in a 12-inch face wheel, it seems a question of education or preference with the operators. Perfectly uniform tension is the important point, for if a saw has fast and loose spots in it, the tendency to crack is largely increased, the fast spot cracking from undue tensile strain and the loose spot from constant buckling of surplus metal. The principal tools required for tensioning band saws are an anvil, leveling block, a cross face hammer, a round or dog head hammer, a twist face hammer, each weighing about 3^ pounds, and a roll saw-stretcher (see page 109, for complete out- fit). The anvil should have a flat face and be perfectly true. Strike light fair blows, using care not to cut or mark the surface of the saw with the hammer, as cracks are apt to start from such marks, particularly when occurring near the edges. 85 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Instructions for Setting Up and Operating Band Saw Mills Sec IhaX \\\a IP] ^oUeA Wrves 5V\Q>n sWe s\):ft\u on ^^^^PovaUaV 5CXNNS ; a VvtWe \n'v\V\ \ovn\A\V\ decreases. ^ ^ OX\w\\«.€,V5 \v\ 5V\o\^, d\5\an&& soixut flA"W wA't" '. Fig. 89 86 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK DIRECTIONS FOR LEVELLING AND TENSIONING BAND SAWS Large bandsaws, when running idle, should travel in a true plane, with the cutting-edge projecting over the edge of the wheels about the full length or depth of the teeth. This can be accomplished only by true alignment of shafts, proper tilt of wheels and, as regards the saws, accurately made brazes, correct tension, right amount of hook to the teeth for the kind of timber to be cut, properly swaged and fitted. Assuming the foregoing adjustments have been made, the saws will travel in a true plane and hold their position on the wheels without any material lateral motion either in or out of the cut. Tension means strain and is obtained by stretching the blade between the edges with the tensioning rolls or hammer. If a hammer is used, one with a round face is preferred. The saw must be made flat or level before tensioning. Examine carefully with a straight-edge for lumps across and lengthwise, trace lumps to their full extent and remove by striking with a long or a cross-face hammer as the direction of the lump may require. Be careful not to cut the lump into several small ones by spreading the blows. Hammer lightly and closely, — the nearer the blows come together the better. Examine fre- quently with the straight-edge. Reverse the saw occasionally for inspection, as a beginner is apt to hammer more than is necessary, thus dishing the blade. A little practice and close attention will soon enable the learner to flatten or level the saws correctly. The next operation after levelling the saw is to examine for tension by using a tension gauge. The proper amount of tension varies according to the feed of the mill and crown of the wheel, but under no circumstances do we think it judicious from any point of view to put in so much tension that the saw will not lie flat from its own weight on the levelling table. Raise the saw, as shown in Fig. 90, holding the tension gauge at right angles to the blade. Mark all fast spots with a crayon, tracing from the beginning and end of each spot. The fast spots are indicated where the centre of the blade shows as a lump under the tension gauge as in Fig. 90. Roll or hammer between marks until the saw shows under the tension gauge as seen in Fig. 91. Test after each line 87 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK through the rolls. Roll from the centre of the blade to within about three-quarter of an inch of the edges. If the hammer is used for tensioning, the blows must be appHed on both sides of the blade to prevent dishing. Do not tension on a cast iron block, which is to be used onl}^ when lumps are being removed. A hard-faced anvil should alwaj^s be part of the equipment. Fig. 90. Showing lump or "fast" spot Examine with a straight-edge each time a roll or hammer is used for tensioning and remove Siny lumps which may have developed. If too much drop shows under the tension gauge, as shown in Fig. 92, roll or hammer on both edges until the drop properly fits the gauge on both sides of the saw. Examine the back-edge of the saw with a back gauge. See Fig. 93. Mark the extent of the hollow on the back of the saw, if there be one, and roll or hammer from mark to mark. Begin at the centre of the saw and work to the back edge by 88 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK rolling parallel with the saw. Repeat, if necessary, until the back is stretched to fit the gauge. If the back should be full or lumpy, follow the same course, working from the centre of the blade towards the tooth-edge. Examine the saw with a straight-edge for lumps and with a tension gauge for irregular tension. Make corrections as the Fig. 91. "Drop" in blade fits tension gauge work progresses. When ready for the wheels, the saw should lie flat on the levelling block and fit the tension gauge on both sides when curved and tested as in Fig. 91. Fig. 95 shows the test for tension on the up bend or outside curve with a short straight-edge. If the saw is correctly tensioned an almost perfect curve will show under the straight- edge between both edges of the saw. If it shows flat, trace its extent and stretch it with a roll or hammer until it shows an even curve. 89 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK After the saw has been properly tensioned it should be ac- curately fitted. The swaging and fitting of the teeth are prac- tically the same as in a full swaged circular saw. The swaging is side dressed or shaped to a uniform width with an under and back cut in order to leave the extreme point of tooth a trifle wider than the rest of the tooth. The full amount of swage Fig. 92. Too much "drop" under tension gauge when side dressed should never exceed No. 8 gauge in a 14 gauge saw and for hard timber may be even less. It is advisable to run with as little swage as practicable. The tensile strain on the saw, the power required, and the waste of lumber in the kerf depend to a certain extent on the degree of swaging. It is also necessary to re-sharpen handsaws frequently. Many saws are ruined because they are run after they have become dull. No band saw should be run longer than two and a half hours on one sharpening. 90 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Well tensioned and well fitted handsaws, when properly handled, will stand the maximum feed and manufacture good lumber. But, after the corners of the saws become worn or dull the saws will dodge or leave the line, which has the effect of destroying the tension and fracturing the saws. In sharpening use a medium soft emery wheel and do not crowd it on its work as this would result in case-hardening the gullets. Cracks are liable to start from any of these case- hardened spots. Fig. 93. Testing the back of the saw Do not give the teeth sharp gullets. This concentrates the bend of the saw too much at one point as it runs over the wheels. Use a round gullet, as large as practicable, with no sharp corners or abrupt angles. Never let the back edge of the saw come in contact with the back guard wheel or any other hard surface, as case-harden- ing is bound to ensue from which cracks will surely result. Should the saw be accidentally forced against the guard and case-hardened, remove the glaze at once by holding a piece of soft emery wheel against the back edge while the saw is run- ning slowly. Do not take for granted that the back edge of the saw has not been in contact with the guard wheel. Try a file on the edge of the saw frequently, as only one revolution with 91 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Fig. 94. Tension gauge Made in lengths from six to twelve inches, with curved_ edge adapted to face of the wheels and the tension required. the back edge against the guard is necessary to bring about case-hardening. This is done so quickly that it often happens without the knowledge of the operator. Fig. 95. Testing tension on the up-bend The majority of the large mills are now using the roller or stretching machine for putting in the tension. The desired effect can be attained in a shorter time and with less injury to the saw than if the tension were put in by a hammer. It is necessary, however, to use the hammer for finishing and regulating, after the use of the stretcher. TWISTS— HOW TO LOCATE AND REMOVE THEM Twists in band saws are termed as follows: long-face, cross- face, and double. The terms ''long-face" and ''cross-face" 92 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Fig. 96. Trimming from a finished Disston Bandsaw This strip of steel was purposely twisted into this shape. It is one of the severest tests to which a tempered piece of steel could be subjected. It shows the superiority of the tension holding cutting-edge and the setting or swaging qualities of Disston Band Saw Steel. come from the hammer used in the removal of twists. The long-face and cross-face hammer is that one which has two faces; one, a long face in line with the handle, the other at right angles with the handle. Fig. 97. Position for hammering long face twist. 93 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK A long-face twist is that which requires the use of the long- face hammer, and is determined in the saw by the way the saw lies when resting on the floor. If the filer is standing at the end of saw and the opposite end inclines to the right, that is a long-face twist, and must be taken out by the filer at the bench standing with his left to the saw and hammering diag- onally across the saw with the long-face hammer. Fig. 98. Position for hammering cross face twist On the other hand, should the saw be inclined to the left at the opposite end, that would be a cross-face twist and should be removed with a cross-face hammer while the filer is standing with his left side to the saw striking diagonally with a cross- face hammer. Most twists in handsaws are due to accidents while the saws are running, such as striking iron, or dodging in or out of the cut. In such cases the twist generally runs clear around the saw, and the filer, after determining whether it is a long-face or cross-face twist, proceeds to hammer by placing the blows very close together from edge to edge all around the saw. When one side is covered, hammer the opposite side in same manner as the first, which will cross the blows of the first side. When the second side is covered, place the saw on the floor and note the effect. If there has not been enough hammering repeat until the saw stands evenly on the floor. 94 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Fig. 99. This shows a band saw with a cross face twist. A double twist means that saw has both kinds, and they must be located by the way the saw lies on the leveling table. Trace with a straight-edge as though hunting for lumps, but hold the straight-edge diagonally on the saw. If the saw shows a hollow, examine across the hollow where a diagonal lump is likely to show. This should be hammered in the direction indicated by straight-edge. Mark the opposite side of the saw, trace in the same manner, and the twist will be seen to run across the lump taken out on the other side. Trace as at first and hammer until the lump removed. 95 DI88TON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Examine for tension in the meantime and if any fast places are found, open them with the roll, as it is impossible to remove twists while the saw is long on the edges. THE CARE OF BANDS AW TEETH If the saw chatters in the cut, runs snakey at times, and does not make the lumber as smooth as it should, the ditficulty may be in carrying too nuich swage, particularly when sawing hardwood. I^sually about three gauges more than the thickness of the saw is sufficient. Sometimes even a trifle less than this will work satisfactorily provided the blade is perfectly flat and evenly tensioned. Make sure that the teeth are properly dressed after s^\\aging, otherwise they soon become dull, or the slender corners drop olf. The eccentric swage, in forcing out the corners, causes a depression or dent just under the points of the teeth. To face the teeth properly the fronts of the teeth nuist be ground suffi- ciently to take out most of this depression and to thicken the points to the required stoutness with which to stand the shock of cutting through knots without dropping corners. Swage just enough — no more — to get a dressing on the corners. If too nnich, the points will buckle when shaped. By compressing more than is necessary the points are apt to be injured, causing them, in many instances, to drop off. Therefore it is best to swage lightly and it will not be necessary to shape heavily. When the teeth are all thoroughly swaged and shaped, examine with a set gauge, see Fig. 100, to see if any are bent. Test by holding the gauge on each side alternately as shown in Fig. 101. If an^^ of the teeth are out of line, bend them Avith a set wrench as in Fig. 102, to the right or left as may be re- quired, until all are even. Extreme care should be taken to have all the teeth in a perfect line, for any of the teeth, if even slightly bent, will cut roughly and in passing through the board will naturally incline out of the cut, frequently breaking off'. After the teeth are nicely swaged, shaped, and straightened, the saw is ready for the automatic sharpener. Unless care is used 96 ^ Fig, mo. The set gauge DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Fig. lUl. Application of set gauge Fig. 102. Straightening tooth with set wrench 97 DTSSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK in operating this machine all the good work just done will be spoiled. Bear in mind that the points are delicate. Do not tr}^ to get the work done in one time around the saw, but cut lightly several times until the teeth are well faced. This does not mean to take out all the depression made by the swage, but most of it. Of course, enough cutting must be done in the gullets and on the backs to keep the teeth in shape, and ground to point, as the automatic sharpener will keep the teeth even when all are brought up to a cutting edge. If the}^ are not ground to point there will be high and low teeth. Remember that too slender a tooth will cause chattering in the cut, and will make "wash-board" lumber. Look after the sharpener frequently. Do not allow lost motion. Remember that emery dust will get into the running parts and cut. If this is not cleaned out the machine soon will be missing the teeth. Grind the entire surface of the tooth and the gullet every time in order to present new steel to the work after each sharp- ening operation. 98 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK STANDARD SHAPES AND SPACING OF TEETH IN DISSTON BAND RIP SAWS AND RE-SAWS Cany space and depth desired) BN \y." Fig. 103. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustration and state space desired. Special patterns made to order. 99 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK BAND RIP SAWS AND RE-SAWS 2G1^" Fig. 103. continued LOG BAND (any space and depth desired) I IH H IH" Fig. 10-i. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustration, and state space desired Special patterns made to order. 100 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK LOG BAND (any space and depth desired) IJ 2 X IK" Fig. 104 continued. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustrations, and state space desired. Special patterns made to order. 101 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK LOG BAND i^an}^ space and depth desired) L r L IVJ' r4 NR ni" C IH" Fig. 10-i continued 102 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK T 3" AT \V/' AT 2 Fig. 104 continued BAND CROSS-CUT TEETH Fig. 105. Above illustrations full size. Order by letter on illustration, and state space desired Special patterns made to order. 103 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK BRAZING BAND-SAWS The process of joining the ends of a band-saw is called brazing. When cutting off the ends be sure to allow for the proper spacing of the teeth. Square the ends of the saw carefully, then prepare them to be lapped by bevelling the upper side of one end and the lower side of the other, by filing, grinding, or milling. The laps must be uniform, smooth, flat, and must taper to a knife edge. Test with a straight-edge and remove, with a file, any high spots, for the closer the laps fit, the less solder will remain in the joint and the stronger it will hold. Saws up to 7 inches wide should have >^ inch laps; 8, 9, and 10 inch saws, ^ inch laps; 11 to 14 inch saws, fi inch laps, and saws over 14 inches, J^ inch laps, though, of course, wider laps may be used, at the discretion of the filer. After the ends have been properly scarfed or bevelled, place one end at the center of the brazing clamp, directly over the irons with the back of the saw against the ledge of the clamp. Then tighten the end clamp to hold the blade in place. Posi- tion the other end in the same manner. The back edge of the saw must be straight and even. The point of the top lap must cover and fit the lower lap perfectly, and the points of the teeth must be spaced properly. When the ends are secured in position, raise the top end and clean the laps with a diluted muriatic acid, and wipe dry with clean white waste, or a rag. Cut a strip of silver solder a trifle longer, and l/16th of an inch wider, than the laps. Clean the solder in the same manner as the laps and place it carefully between the laps. Fit the irons, which must be straight and even, in the clamp, to raise the saw slightly at the brazed point. Place the irons in the furnace, and bring them to an even cherry-red heat. Just before the irons are ready for application, cover the inside of the laps with zinc chloride flux or borax paste. As the irons come from the furnace, wipe off the scale. Apply them quickly, as originally adjusted, and secure the clamp firmly and evenly. As soon as the clamp is tightened, loosen the other clamps which hold the saw in position. This is to allow for expansion, and insures better finish when the, braze is dressed. Remove the irons as soon as they are black and cool the brazed part of the saw with oil. At the hammer- ing bench, file off the excess solder. 104 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK As the heating has made the blade very fast at the brazed point, open it well with a roll or hammer to fit the tension gauge. Trace the lumps with a straight edge and flatten them with a hammer. Reverse the saw and hammer the other side of the blade until the saw shows the same on both sides, — with BRAZING CLAMP Fig. 106. This style of clamp for brazing band-saws is furnished up to three inches in width a straight edge for flatness, and with a tension gauge for ten- sion. When satisfied that the saw is properly flattened and tensioned, place a curved block under the brazed portion. Clamp the saw to the bench on each side of the block. Then file the surface carefully and polish it with emery cloth. Use a wire gauge to measure the thickness of the blade and do not 105 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK reduce it too much. When this operation has been completed, test with a straight edge and flatten if necessary. Next, cover the brazed part with a heavy oil and heat care- fully with a blow torch until the bright part turns a straw color. This will stiffen the braze and prevent bending while it is being handled. Refit and the saw should be ready to run. CARE OF BRAZES The brazed part of a band saw and about an inch of the metal on each side of the braze is a little milder in temper than any other part of the blade. For that reason this part of the saw is more subject to bends when saws are being changed or handled in the filing room. Also the brazed part is more liable to '^pull-tension" than any other part of the blade. Irregularity of tension or bends in a band saw are two of the most common causes of cracks. It is, therefore, of great importance that the brazes in every band saw should be exam- ined at the end of each run. If any bends are found in the brazes, or if the tension has pulled to any extent, the bends should be straightened and the tension restored before the saws are allowed to make another run. It must be remembered that the brazed part is the weakest part of a saw, and unless the brazes are kept in proper condition, the chances of cracks in the saws and possible serious accidents will be greatly increased. Fig. 107. Lever brazing clamp Specially designed for quickness of operation in brazing narrow bandsaws up to one inch in width. Made of grey iron, japanned One movement of the lever opens the jaws, another closes them, holding blade under pressure, firmly in position 106 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Fig. 108 Lap filing vise LAP FILING VISE It is essential, for a good joint, that the "laps" of handsaws should be accurately and uni- formly filed. With the assistance of this vice the filing is easily made square and true. Made of grey iron, japanned, hardened steel blocks BRAZING TORCH A convenient and powerful heating apparatus Fig. 109 Brazing torch DIRECTIONS FOR USING LEVER BRAZING CLAMP ON NARROW BANDSAWS The parts to be brazed must be cut so the teeth at this section will be properly spaced and matched to set alternately. Scarf or bevel each end, on opposite sides, to a knife-edge, making the laps one-half inch wide on saws 20 gauge and thicker, and three-eights of an inch wide on saws under 20 gauge. The bevels should be perfectly square and the taper uniform, other- wise a good joint cannot be made. Clamp the ends of the saw, with the laps in position, in the brazing clamp, making sure that the back edge is straight. Then cover the surface of the laps with a thin coating of borax paste. This is made of powdered borax and rain or distilled water. Insert between the laps a piece of clean silver solder cut to fit, or a trifle larger than, the laps. Apply heat with a gas blow-pipe, kerosene or gasoline torch, until the parts are red and the solder is melted. Then move the lever to bring the jaws of the clamp together, holding the parts firmly until the brazed portion is black. Open the clamps and apply flame to reduce the temper, as the application of the clamp jaws has had a chill- ing effect and hardened the braze. A stiff braze is desirable, therefore care should be taken not to reduce the stiffness to such a degree that the braze will bend easily. Straighten the sides and edges with a hammer on an anvil, finishing the sides with a file and emery-cloth, maintaining an even thickness. If left too thick the braze will catch in the saw- guide and break. When finished, stiffen with a torch, applying the flame until the braze takes on a straw or blue color. 107 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK BRAZING TONGS The foregoing directions also apply when using tongs in brazing. The tongs to be used should have suitably sized jaws for the joint. They should be heated to a bright red, sufficiently to melt the solder. Quickly scrape off all the scale between the jaws and hold the joint with the hot tongs until the solder has thoroughly melted. Remove the hot tongs carefully and repeat the operation with another pair that has been heated Fig. 110. Small brazing clamp and tongs to show a dull red. This will set the solder and prevent the joint from being chilled too suddenly. It would be well to have a pair of cold tongs to clamp over the jaws of the hot tongs, holding them firmly to the joint, as the hot iron must fit nicely and press evenly over the whole width of the saw. Dress the joint as described in the instructions for use of the lever brazing clamp. Weight 8M lbs. Fig. 111. Braze finishing clamp for narrow handsaws A convenient and handy braze finishing clamp. The upper part of the fasteners, at each end, is upheld by a spring, permitting the quick insertion and removal of the handsaw. For ease in working, the face of the clamp is curved. 108 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK BREAKAGE OF SMALL BAND SAWS Among the most frequent causes of breakage the following may be named: The use of inferior saws of unsuitable gauge for the work; pulleys being out of balance or too heavy; the use of improper tension arrangements; not slackenmg the saw after use thus preventing the free contraction of the saw blade cooling down after work; the framing of the machine column being too high or too light thus causing excessive vibration; the joint in the saw not being of the same thickness as the rest of the blade; improper method of receiving the back thrust of the saw and consequent case-hardening and cracking of the back of the saw blade; using band saws with angular instead of rounded gullets at the roots of the teeth; top pulley over-running the saw; working dull saws; feeding up the work to the saw too quickly; allowing saw dust to collect on the face of the saw-wheel thus causing it to become lumpy and uneven. Stopping or starting a machine too suddenly especially while using a light blade, will almost certainly snap a saw in two. Always endeavor to have a full knowledge of the v/orking and condition of each saw in your charge and examine each blade carefully as it comes off the wheels. Close application in studying the conditions under which the saw works, along with good judgment as to when it is properly fitted for its par- ticular work, is what is wanted in every filer who wishes his band saw to run successfully. LIST OF MACHINES AND TOOLS TO MAKE COMPLETE OUTFIT FOR BAND SAW FILING ROOM 1 Automatic sharpener 1 Back guage 5 or 6 feet long 1 Roll saw stretcher 1 Short straight edge 1 Scarfing machine 1 Tension gauge 1 Fittmg-up clamp 2 Hammers— 1 cross face 1 Set of pulleys and stands ^ ^ ^^^^ 1 Brazmg clamp . t^ , . 1 Re-toother and shear ^ Eccentric swage 1 Forge for heating brazing 1 Swage shaper irons 1 LeveUing block 1 Set guage 1 Anvil — hard face 1 Tooth wrench 10 Inch Disston mill bastard files 109 DISSTON LUMBEEMAN S HAND BOOK We are prepared to furnish any of the tools on this list and will be pleased to supply description with price on any article or machine required for keeping, fitting, and repairing saws. Fig. 112. Clamp for wide band saws BRAZING CLAMP FOR WIDE BAND-SAWS This Fig. 112 is the style of clamp used in the Disston Band- Saw Department for brazing wide band-saws. ECCENTRIC SWAGE FOR BAND-SAWS These are made in three sizes. No. 1, adapted for saws 12 to 16 gauge; No. 2, 16 to 19 gauge; No. 3, 20 gauge and lighter. By use of extra brackets this tool can be used for cylinder and circular saws. When ordering, state thickness of the saws on which the swage is to be used and send a sketch of the teeth. 110 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK When the Disston Eccentric Swage is ordered, in the ab- sence of other instructions, the No. 1 will be adjusted for our standard pattern of L tooth, 1^ inch spacing, per full size cut of tooth shown. Fig. 113. Eccentric swage for band saws Fig. 114. The LI %" tooth When ordering, specify the number of part and state whether for No. 0, 1, 2, or 3 Eccentric swage. (No. for circular saws.) SWAGE SHAPER FOR BAND AND GANG SAWS Having each tooth in a band or gang saw of the same width is quite as important as having them of a uniform length. This swage shaper is the best tool of its kind on the market. It combines solidity with simplicity, and has very few parts to get out of order. No wrench is necessary; the shaper can be taken apart by the loosening of three thumb-screws. The dies fit snugly in the body, and will not twist or come out of line. Ill DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK Fig. 115. Swage shaper for band and gang saws Patented October 27, 1914 A. Plain B. Swaged C. Swaged and Shaped Fig. 116. A, B, and C show three stages in shaping teeth All wearing parts are made of the best tool steel, accurately machined and milled to a perfect fit. Thi> swage shaper is designed to make all the teeth uniform in width and at the same time to give them the ''back" and ''under-cut" necessary for proper clearance and smooth sawing. It can be adjusted readily to shape the teeth on saws of any thick- ness rapidly. When ordering, it is necessary to state the thickness of saw and the space of the teeth on which the shaper is to be used. SWAGE SHAPER Do not neglect your swage shaper. Examine it from time to time, after considerable use, to see if the dies are becoming worn by reason of the saw teeth frequently coming in contact with the same spot. If they are worn, then the swage on the teeth is not given sufficient back clearance to allow the side- dress to do its work without unnecessary friction. A saw with teeth improperly side-dressed will run "snakey." Keeping the dies in good condition and properh^ adjusted means a saving in labor and expense. HOLDER FOR GRINDING SWAGE SHAPER DIES With this adjustable holder a die is ground quickly and uniform^, without the use of a gauge. 112 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Fig. 117. Holder for grinding swage shaper dies Positions 1 and 2 are for grinding the angles which must be of equal length on each pair of dies. Position 3 is for short- ening the die and squaring the face. It is necessary to grind the face only when the dies are of unequal length or when the bevel becomes too long. This tool can be used on the table of any grinding machine, the only requirement being a stop-plate for the holder to rest against. Furnished free with each swage shaper. STOP PLATE FOR GRINDING TABLE Fig. 118 This illustration shows how the stop plate for the holder to rest against is screwed to the wheel side of the grinding table. HAND-SCREW PRESS Band saw attachment Fig. 119. No. 2 press, fitted for gumming band saws This press is made in two sizes or weights,^ and in a style 113 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK rendering it strong and durable for punching, slotting, toothing, or shearing purposes. The No. 1 press weighs 460 pounds, and is adapted for gumming saws or punching steel up to 5 gauge (7/32 inch) in thickness. The No. 2 press weighs 250 pounds and will gum saws up to 8 gauge (5/32 inch) in thickness. The above illustration shows the No. 2 press fitted for retoothing band saws. Special dies and punches, or shear ^ blades will be furnished on order. i This is a very desirable and powerful machine, and we recommend it as superior to any other pattern for retoothing band, gang, and other saws, as well as for general purposes. MOHAWK BAND-SAW GUIDE An important and vital feature of a band saw machine is the saw guide. To insure even and easy running it is necessary that the blade should move with all possible freedom and the I Fig. 120 No. 1. Guide complete for saws up to 1 inch wide No. 2. Guide complete for saws up to 2 inches wide best guide is one that offers the least resistance to the motion of the blade. The above cut illustrates a guide calculated to prevent the friction at the back of the blade. The wheel forming the back-guide has a concave surface on its periphery, and is set on an angle so that the back of the saw passes diagonally across the periphery of the wheel and revolves it. Thus the point of bearing of the wheel against the back of the saw is constantly changed and prevents the saw from grooving the surface of the wheel by a continued action in any one place. The saw has a bearing 114 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK of 11/16 of an inch at the back and will not twist or turn even if the side pieces are removed. The wheel runs on ball-bearings. It requires very little oil, and is always in proper position. The shouldered-screw adjusts for saws of different widths. The thumb-screw at the side adjusts for different gauges. Wood and metal side pieces are sent with each guide. IMPROVED SETTING MACHINE FOR NARROW BAND-SAWS Fig. 121. Narrow band-saw setting machine This is a simple, practical, and durable tool. It will set saws ys" to l>^''wide, with teeth 1/16'' to %'' space, setting the points of the teeth uniformly. The vise, automatically gripping the blade while the tooth is being set and prevents twisting when used on narrow saws. The machine should run 100 revolutions per minute, enabling the operator to set a saw in four to five minutes. AUTOMATIC FILING MACHINE FOR NARROW BAND-SAWS This tool is simple, efficient, and accurate. It is strongly made easily adjusted, and requires no attention after it has been started. 115 1 PlSsroN irMlU'h'M.WS u,\m> Hc^C^R Fig. 122. Narrow band-saw filing machine It \vill take saws ^ s' to IJ2" wide, with teeth l/ltV^ to ^^" space, and will tile old saws with uneven teeth as perfectly as new ones. It all teeth are filed to the same height, the saws will stay sharp longer. Each tooth doing its proportionate amount of work prevents breakage. This machine uses tV" taper saw files, and should run 50 to 60 revolutions per minute. lUi RECIPROCATING SAWS (iSawfl which move up and down or back and forth, such as cross-cut hhwh, drag KawH, mill huwh, gang hhwh, pit .saws, etc.) y UlS!,%n,.„„_ Fig. 12;{. Mill haw bin. 12^. (Jang i^aw *■ — — ' ■ // ////, ,,,-,/ //v , ,'/ .' ' Fig. 12.5. Pit saw Fig. 126. Tapered butting or drag sawe. Power or moU^r driven We manufacture a complete line of mill, mulay, gang, deal, drag, pit, whip, futtock, pond ice, and hand ice .saws, — in fact, all varieties of saws in use. They are made of a Disston Steel peculiarly adapted to withstand the strains to which these saws are subjected when in use. For quality of material, tem- per, tension, and edge-holding qualities they have no equal. 117 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK DRAG-SAWS FOR MOTOR-DRIVEN MACHINES Fig. 127. A motor driven drag saw in action The advantages of these machines in the saving of time, labor, and expense are being more generally recognized. While of great benefit to the farmer, who finds it an untiring worker in building up his pile of firewood, etc., it is also employed by a number of loggers, by shingle, stave, and spoke mills, etc., where logs are cut into short bolts, — formerly done by slow, laborious handwork. We manufacture a special line of drag saws with various styles of teeth, to meet the demands of users of these machines. TOOLS FOR RE-FITTING DRAW SAWS It is of the utmost importance that the teeth of drag saws, as with all saws, be maintained in good cutting condition, ' 118 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK otherwise the results will be very unsatisfactory, — poor lumber, uneven cuts, and in addition, extra power and time will be consumed in operating a dull saw or one improperly fitted. To assist in obtaining uniform results, first in filing, then in setting, we fully recommend the use of the Disston No. 2 Imperial Drag Saw Tool (instructions for the use of this tool are similar to those for the Imperial cross-cut saw tools given on page 129) and either the No. 1 or No. 2 setting block illustrated below. For sharpening use the Disston Imperial Saw File, 8 inch. Fig. 128. Disston No. 1 Adjustable Setting Block The No. 1 block is made of a solid casting. The anvil has a chilled face, insuring a good, hard surface. The gauges are adjustable to the various widths of set required. Fig. 129. Setting hammer. Special in form and weight for setting saws Fig. 130. Disston No. 2 Adjustable Setting Block 119 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK The No. 2 block is made of a solid casting with a removable steel anvil. The anvil has four different bevels for different patterns of saws. The gauges are adjustable to the various widths of set required. Hand saws, cross-cut saws, and drag saws can be set on this block. CROSS-CUT SAWS The perfection of temper in all saws is controlled very largely by the quality of the steel. As manufacturers of our own steel, being thoroughly familiar with its make-up, we are able to adjust the hardening and tem- pering processes to a degree which gives that perfect com- bination of hardness and toughness which produces the ''edge and set-holding qualities" for which the Disston Saws are renowned. With the possible exception of material and tempering, grind- ing is the most important thing in saw-making. Our methods and machinery for this work are of our own design and used exclusively by us. The Disston process of grinding gives the saws the maxinuun amount of clearance without sacrificing their elasticity and stiffness. It insures an even thickness on the cutting-edges, with a relative and uniform thickness throughout the body to a thin or extra thin back. In the blocking, polishing, stiffening, and final processes of manufacture, the same high order of skill is exercised as in the hardening, tempering, and grinding. Saws of the highest quality and efficiency that human ingenuity coupled with skill is capable of producing, are the result. No expense or care is spared in our efforts to produce the best saws in the world, and we guarantee that Disston Saws, under the same conditions, will run easier, cut faster, and last longer than any other brand of saw on the market. 120 DLSSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth Fig. 131. Cougar. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. Fig. 132. Nevada, No. 497 i^.Cf;,';r:r;/;r/|f;/j,(;/j;/;;x^£fji,rx;j;/j;)jrxj)/ri;i;fii'5J Fig. 133. Perforated Oregon, No. 475 ''I'f ^"i:,. Fig. 134. Oregon, No. 473 fr VjJ Mjj ' >^ ^J^^ 14 ^ilf il M Fig. 135. Suwanee, No. 40.1; J- A ^^VJ ^^ W Vf A ./ ■ ^ '-^ V\ Vfy/vVy ///^ 7 //i y ;:/ , Fig. 136. Virginian, No. 289 121 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth ^ plSSTOJV . Fig. 137. Lancet, No. 365. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. ^ '^ — ^ Fig. 138. Great American, No. 1. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. Fig. 139. Champion, No. 1 plSSTOJv ^ ^//" Fig. 140. Lumberman, No. 1. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. i: PEBF ORATE D) Fig. 141. Perforated Lance, 477 v*^ ^r.v, ri :s:,„ ^/r^/ir.r^i/^^^./^./^/^.^y.^/y^^iv./'/JWVfViri^^^i'r^^^^^^ Fig. 142. Diamond, No. 1 122 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth Fig. 143. Plain, No. 1 plSSTON it "*OCi.PHlA-' ^vy.WVvVVV /Vvv, V V V vv . v^ V ■ xA aa/vwvV\'V\/0A^vVv'VVVvVVVVV'/VVVWV/v V v Fig. 144. Tenon, No. 1 cxvsxEKrssr;' Fig. 145. Tuttle, No. 1 The above patterns represent a general line of cross-cut saw teeth. We make various other styles and shapes, however, as shown in our catalogue. DISSTON HIGH GRADE CROSS-CUT SAWS Particular attention is invited to the merits of the Virginian and the Suwanee Cross-cut Saws. These saws are designed especially for heavy and rapid cutting, and represent everything in the way of material, temper, and workmanship that is most desirable in cross-cut saws. The steel is the best that can be produced. The widths of plates are fixed at those points which our many years of experience and careful observation have proved the most advantageous in fast cutting saws. The temper is as high as due regard to necessary toughness will admit. The shape and spacing of teeth, the size, and the position and depth of gullets have much to do with the results to be obtained from cross-cut saws. Add to this the fact that the saws are ground to a perfectly uniform thickness throughout the tooth-edge and tapered to an extra thin-back on lines that conform to the breast of the 123 mssrox lvmbermax s hand book Fig. 146. Virginian, No. 2S9 V.,..,. ,- ... • . ■ <^:^ .,.,Y, ...■ ■•■■■■" Fi^-. Ii7. Su\v;uicc, No. -iiVi saws. Then we have saws which for rapid cutting and easy ''running," have never been equaled. Disston FelHng Saws as the name iniphes, these saws are made especially for felling timber and differ from the regular cross-cut saws only in shape and weight. The high grade steel used for our wide saws and the same workmanship are employed in the make-up of the felling saTN^s. Fig. MS. Cougar Felling, 44S. Trademark Registereil U. S. Pat. Off. For Paoitic Coast Fig. 140. Nevada Felling, No. 4iHi. For Paoitic Coas^t Fig. 150. Triumph Toledo, 59S. The blades are made as narrow as a fair margin of strength and a proportionate amount of wear permit. They are ground on special lines which give the greatest possible stiffness and at the same time the proper clearance to prevent, kerf -binding. '■'■ ^ '^^^ ^Mi(M¥m^^r Fig. 151. "Beaver" Hollow Baek No. 4i>4 for leiiing and buck sawiu,i? Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. 124 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK The *'Beaver" is a medium width, thin-back, strictly high grade saw, designed specially for both felling and buck-sawing, and ordinary cross-cutting. Fig. 152. "Great American," No. 373, one-man cross-cut saw with a supplementary handle. Trademark Registered U. S. Pat. Off. This engraving represents a cross-cut saw, especially adapted for the use of one man. The ''Great American" one-man cross- cut saw is made and ground on the same principle as our No. 7 hand saw. We have improved the file for keeping this tooth in order, and it should be ordered with the saw. Bridge-builders, mill men, railroad and other contractors — in fact, all large establishments — will find this a very useful tool. For cutting off girders, joists, blocking, or heavy lumber of any kind, it is just what is required. This saw will pay for itself in a few days, as the labor of one man is saved. Fig. 153. Cedar Savage, No. 410, one-man cross-cut saw THE RAKER OR CLEANER TOOTH OF CROSS-CUT SAWS The question of the proper length or height of the ''Rakers" or cleaner teeth in cross-cut saws is frequently brought up and statements are sometimes made that the "Rakers" do all the work, and therefore should be on line or even with the cutting points of the saw. The latter claim will appear ridiculous to experienced cross-cut saw users but since new men are con- stantly entering the field who are not expert saw fitters, an explanation is worth while, for quick progress can only be made in profiting by the experience of others. When considering the subject of rakers, it must be borne in mind that several patterns of saws are made and used with- out raker teeth which do good work, especially in dry seasoned timber. It was the development of the oross-cut saw for the par- ticular use of logging operators which led to the introduction of the raker for quick clearing action. 125 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK In this article we shall dwell only on that type of saw, it being a discovery which led to faster cutting; the raker plan- ing out and keeping the cut free from sawdust, which would interfere with the cutting or scoring teeth. Fig. 154 Plain raker Fig. 155. Swaged raker When cross-cutting timber or lumber, that is, cutting across the grain, the points and edges of the cutting teeth strike the fibre of the wood at right angles to its length, severing it from the main body on each side of the saw. In other words, the cut- ting teeth do the scoring while the rakers plane and clean out the remaining ridge of wood which is thrown out in the form of a shaving as shown in Fig. 156. The scoring teeth properly beveled leave a space between the knife-edges of the tooth. This necessitates the employment of some agency for the removal of the ridge of wood left between the scorings made by the cutting teeth. This action is accom- plished by providing, at short intervals, a tooth which is filed straight across and left slightly shorter in length than the cutting teeth. This tooth is termed a '^Raker" or cleaner by reason of its function of raking or planing out the cut. We now reach the question: "What is the proper length for the raker?" Some rakers are left but one one-hundredth of an inch shorter than the cutting teeth, and from that anywhere to one 126 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK thirty-second of an inch, a gauge being used to insure uniformity. The length of the raker is determined by the kind and class of timber to be cut. For the very hardest and driest woods they should be one one-hundredth of an inch shorter than the cutting teeth, while for hard, green woods the rakers should be one sixty-fourth of an inch shorter than the scoring teeth. From that the length varies to an extreme of about one thirty-second of an inch when cutting softer woods according to the condition of the timber. The rakers absolutely must be shorter than the cutting teeth, for if they are too long they will not allow the cutting teeth to come in proper contact with the work and the saw Fig. 156 shaving Fig. 157 planing showing "whiskers" will not cut freely. Even if just a shght fraction too long they will prevent the saw from doing good work and the sawdust or thick shavings will have what the woodsmen term "whiskers" as shown in Fig. 157. This proves that the rakers are too long, for they go below the scoring of the cutters, breaking the fibre and tearing it out. When the rakers are in this condition the sawing is difficult and the saw hard to pull through the cut. On the other hand, where the rakers just clean out the cut, leaving a faint mark of the scoring teeth, they are then of proper length and the saw will cut fast with the least exertion. It is well to understand that extra weight is of no benefit in a cross-cut saw. The chief points are the cutting teeth, the rakers, the grinding or taper, and the quality of the steel which naturally is the foundation upon which rests all subsequent work. Beyond all other points remember that the rakers are the controlling factor of saw efficiency, for if too long they cause the saw to ride or jump and prevent the cutting teeth froni scor- ing, while if properly fitted they steady the blade, draw it into the wood, bringing the cutting teeth into more active work. 127 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK This article is not based on theory, but is the result of long experience and practical tests made in various kinds of woods in all parts of the country with saws ''fitted up" with rakers of various lengths — from very short rakers to those equal in length with the cutting teeth. Each saw was put to actual work, and records made of the time consumed in cutting, and the number of strokes required to cut a given size log. Con- sideration was given also to the power required and the smooth- ness of the cut. Fig. 158. The cutting teeth score and the rakers plane Not one only, but several tests were made of each saw, then a comparison of all records determined beyond doubt the par- ticular style of ''Fitting" (^. e., length of raker, bevel or fleam of tooth, etc.,) productive of greatest results. To make it more conclusive, the outcome of these demonstrations agrees with the general experience of well-qualified, practical woods- men. You will see from the foregoing that Disston Saws are made for practical use, — not merely to sell, — and when properly fitted will run easiest, cut fastest, and last longest. 128 CARE OF CROSS-CUT SAWS It is a well understood fact, though often unheeded or ne- glected, either through carelessness, hurry, or possibly from lack of experience, that in order to obtain the highest results from any cutting tool that tool must be kept in the best pos- sible condition. It matters not how well a tool may be made, nor how high the quality, it will render but poor service if not kept in proper order. This is particularly applicable to saws. As a rule, if the user becomes dissatisfied, the blame is placed on the quality or style of saw, when usually the saw merely needs resetting and re-sharpening. This will make the saw cut faster, and run easier, and will lengthen its life. With this in view, particular attention is called to instruc- tions for setting and sharpening or fitting cross-cut saws with the use of the new and improved Disston Imperial Cross-cut Saw Tools. These, if properly foUowed, will enable the sawyer to obtain better and greater results with the least possible exertion. DISSTON IMPERIAL CROSS-CUT SAW TOOLS This set of tools includes a jointer, raker-tooth gauge, setting block or anvil, and setting gauge. We call special attention to the following points in the make- up of the IMPERIAL: The parts that rest and slide on the cutting teeth of the saw, while ' 'cutting down raker," in all tools are subject to the greatest wear. In the Imperial these parts are not only made of high-grade steel, specially hardened, to give great durability, but are also easily detached by the mere loosening of a screw. This, while holding the parts firmly, also permits of renewal of worn parts, thus prolonging indefinitely the effi- ciency of the tool, and overcoming a feature so objectionable in other cross-cut saw tools. 129 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK The raker gauge is also made of steel and hardened to such a degree that the best superfine file will not cut it. Another important feature, found in no other cross-cut saw tool, is the improvement in the screw adjustment to set the raker gauge, whereby the gauge can be adjusted to the smallest fractional part of an inch to obtain the particular length of Fig. 159 raker desired. When adjusted and locked with the two lock- nuts on the lower end of raker gauge, the gauge cannot work loose and will remain in its position indefinitely, requiring read- justment only when a different length of raker is desired to suit the changes necessitated by the kind of timber to be cut. Notice the long bossed rib which forms a rest for the jointer file, and affords a firm bearing. The slight curve which is given to the file insures quick, direct action on the teeth. The material entering into the make-up of the Imperial Cross-cut Saw Tools is the best that can be procured for the pur- pose, the workmanship is most thorough, and we unhesitatingly pronounce it a cross-cut saw tool that fills a long-felt want. Setting and Sharpening (or **Fitting") with the ^'IMPERIAL" To fit up a cross-cut saw properly, it is necessary: First — That the teeth be uniform in length. To accomplish' this, place a file edgewise in the frame and secure it by thumb- screws. Pass the tool lightly over the teeth until the file touches the shortest cutting tooth. See Fig. 160. Seco7id — Where swaged rakers are used, the swaging should follow the jointing. The two points of the rakers are first filed to sharp edges without reducing their length, after which each raker point should be swaged or bent outward and downward by the use of the swaging hammer as shown in Fig. 161. This reduces the length of the rakers from 1/100 to 1/32 of an inch ac- cording to the kind of timber to be cut. The uniformity in the 130 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK length or height of raker points can readily be gauged by the use of the graduated gauge as shown in Fig. 163. The faces of the gauge are marked from one to six, the gauge being held rigid by a small roundhead screw. To adjust the gauge loosen the screw and turn the gauge so that the face op- posite the number wanted projects above and parallel with the steel plate, against which the teeth of the saw rest. Then tighten the screw. The points of the rakers should just touch the face of the gauge. The face marked (1) makes the raker 1/125 of an inch shorter than cutting teeth; (2) 1/64: (3) 1/50- (4) 1/40; (5); 1/35 (6) 1/32. Fig. 160. Jointing Third — To "^^" the straight or unswaged raker — where pre- ferred — place the gauge over the raker teeth, as shown in Fig. 162, adjust for length of raker required, and file them down. Then file to a sharp edge. Fig. 161. Method of swaging rakers Care should be taken to have the rakers shorter than the cutting teeth. If the rakers are too long they will not allow the cutting teeth to come in proper contact with the work and 131 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK the saw will not cut freely. For the very hardest and driest woods the raker should be 1/100 part of an inch shorter than the cutting teeth. For hard green wood the rakers should be 1/64 of an inch shorter than the cutting teeth, and graduated from 1/64 to 1/32 of an inch, according to conditions and timber when cutting softer wood. Fig. 162. Filing raker tooth Fourth — When filing, bring each tooth to a keen cutting edge, taking care not to reduce the length of the tooth any more than is necessary to remove the marks of jointing. The amount of bevel to the tooth should be determined by the class of timber to be cut. Hard wood requires less bevel than soft wood. Fig. 163. Graduated gauge Figures 164 A and 165 B illustrate a style of ^'fitting" which we strongly recommend, particularly for very hard or dry stock. This style of fitting produces a long knife-like edge which, through a shearing cut, readily severs the fibre of the hardest wood. Note particularly how the saw is filed when new and keep it as near that shape as possible. -Fifth— li a saw requires setting, lay the block or anvil, Fig. 166, on some convenient flat, solid surface and hold the saw so that the point of the tooth projects over the beveled edge of the anvil about one-quarter of an inch. Give two or three 132 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK blows with a light hammer, striking the tooth always about one-quarter of an inch from the point. It is very important Fig. 164 A that the ''set" should be perfectly uniform, that is, exactly the same amount of set to all teeth. This can be regulated by Fig. 165 B the use of a set gauge, Fig. 167. The amount of set required is largely determined by the kind of timber to be cut and the manner in which the saw is ground. The Disston extra thinback saws when 133 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK Fig. 166. Setting block Fig. 167. Set gauge properly filed do not require more than 1/100 part of an inch - set to each side of the saw in general sawing, and can be run with less set in hard, firm-grained timber. HAMMER AND ANVIL For Setting the Teeth of Cross-Cut Saws High grade cross-cut saws are necessarily made with a special temper for the purpose of holding their set and cutting- edges the longest possible time. Being so high in temper, it is almost an impossibility to set them with the old-fashioned lever spring-setting device. Hence the demand for tools that will Fig. 169. Setting hammer and anvil 134 DISSTON LUMBERMAN S HAND BOOK do the v/ork properly and with the least trouble. This led to the method shown in Fig. 168 which is so plain in its operation that it needs no explanation. These tools are the simplest for setting cross-cut saws. Both the hammer and anvil are made of tool steel and fully guaranteed. The hammer is of a weight best adapted for the setting and swaging of saw teeth. The anvil, octagon shape, is 1^ inches in diameter, 5 inches long, which gives the necessary body and weight. The faces are accurately machined to give them a good true bearing and proper angles to form the set. This enables the filer to adjust the set to the exact degree suitable for the character of timber to be cut, the setting being done while the saw is in the vise or filing clamp. To secure the best results from cross-cut saws they must be properly set and sharpened, which can only be accomplished by an experienced filer supplied with proper tools. The setting hammer and anvil herewith illustrated, and the Disston Im- perial Cross-cut Saw Tools, are recommended as best for the purpose. DISSTON HANDLES FOR CROSS-CUT SAWS Fig. 170 Adjustable set gauge for cross-cut saws. A light and con- venient gauge for regulating the set on teeth of cross-cut and one-man saws. All Disston Handles are made of carefully selected, well-sea- soned wood; beech and maple being principally used, and are of such shape as to give a com- fortable grip. The fittings used are of best malleable iron, well made and finished, and of de- signs particularly adapted for the purpose. Some patterns of handles are made to fit on the saw. In the loop handle, for instance, the loop is slipped over the end of the blade, and is then tightened by turning the handle. Others are adjusted to the edge of the blade. The pin of the 135 Fig. 171 Old Climax No. 103. Fig. 172 Sectional View No. 122 This handle has a heavy, malle- able iron cap withalongneck, tapped for a loop rod. The wood is thoroughly sea- soned and well finished. The heavy ferrule is of malleable iron. There is an anti-friction washer. The loop rod is of malleable iron, extra heavy and strong. The threads are well-cut. bolt is DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK I ^^^~ Fig. 173 A. No. 113. A reversible handle Fig. 174 B. No. 113. (Reversed) inserted in a hole at the end of the saw, and is tightened by screwing up a thumb-nut. The most perfect handle is one, which while strong and durable, permits of a quick adjustment and removal. Particu- larly so is this the case with those used for felling saws, where it is often necessary to remove the handle to withdraw the saw from the cut the moment the tree is about to fall. Another important feature in certain patterns is the fact that they are reversible, thus enabling the use of the saw in various positions. i 136 FILES ^ r-.. Fig. 175 Fig. 176 Fig. 177 Fig. 178 Fig. 179 Fig. 181 SLIM TAPER TAPER S rN r r o t- . I 1, j i 1 I I I —J 1 — 1 I I — 1 —J . — i - — i ^ Fig. 186. No. 1. Small gauge, 1 to 26 Fig. 187. No. 2. Large gauge, to 29 V2.W.^ ^% in fuel. 10. Foaming. — When foaming occurs in a boiler, checking the outflow of steam will usually stop it. If caused by dirty waters, blowing down and pumping up will generally cure it. In case of violent foaming, check the draft and fires. 11. Air Leaks. — Be sure that all openings for admission of air to boiler or flues except through the fire are carefully stopped. This is frequently an unsuspected cause of serious waste. 12. Blowing Off. — If the feed-water is muddy or salt, blow off a portion frequently, according to the condition of the water. Empty the boiler every week or two, and fill up afresh. When surface blow-cocks are used, they should be opened often for a few minutes at a time. Make sure no water is escaping from the blow-off cock when it is supposed to be closed. Blow-off cocks and check-valves should be examined every time the boiler is cleaned. ATTENTION NECESSARY TO SECURE DURABILITY 13. Leaks. — When leaks are discovered, they should be repaired as soon as possible. 14. Blowing Off. — Never empty the boiler while the brick- work is hot. 15. Filling Up. — Never pump cold water into a hot boiler.] Many times leaks, and in shell boilers, serious weakness, andj sometimes explosions are the result of such an action. 16. Dampness. — Take care that no water comes in con-' tact with the exterior of the boiler from any cause, as it tends to corrode and weaken the boiler. Beware of all dampness in seating or coverings. 146 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK 17. Galvanic Action. — Examine parts in contact with copper or brass where water is present frequently, for signs of corrosion. If the water is salt or acid, some metallic zinc placed in the boiler will usually prevent corrosion, but it will need attention and renewal from time to time. 18. Rapid Firing. — In boilers with thick plates or seams exposed to the fire, steam should be raised slowly, and rapid or intense firing avoided. With thin water tubes, however, and adequate water circulation, no damage can come from this cause. 19. Standing Unused. — If a boiler is not required for some time empty and dry it thoroughly. If this is impracti- cable, fill it quite full of water and put in a quantity of common washing soda. External parts exposed to dampness should receive a coating of linseed oil. 20. General Cleanliness. — All things about the boiler room should be kept clean and in good order. NegUgence tends to waste and decay. BELTING The average thickness of single belts is 3/16 of an inch and a safe working load is assumed to be 45 lbs. per inch in width. This, at a velocity of 60 square feet per minute, is equal to one horse power. Belt motion should not exceed 3,000 feet per minute. Where narrow belts are run over small pulleys, a distance of 15 feet between shafts, which gives a sag of lyi to 2 inches in the belt is good practice. For main belts working on large pulleys a greater distance and sag is desirable. The strongest side of the belt is the flesh side one-third the way through. Therefore run the grain (hair) side on the pulley. A common rule for determining the width of a single belt 3/16 of an inch thick to transmit any number of horse power, is to multiply the actual horse power by 1,000 and divide by the velocity of the belt in feet per minute, which gives the width in inches. A belt 1 inch wide, 800 feet per minute— one horse power. To find the length of a belt, add the diameter of the two pulleys together, divide the result by 2 and multiply the quotient by 3-1/7. Then add the product of twice the distance between centres of the shafts and you have the length required. 147 DISSTON lumberman's HAND BOOK The resistance of belts to slipping is independent of their breadth. There is no advantage derived in increasing the width beyond that necessary to resist the strain to which it is subjected. Long belts are more effective than short ones. The strain of 350 lbs. per square inch of section is a safe working load. The pulley should be a little wider than the belt. STRENGTH OF ICE Ice 2 inches thick will bear men on foot. Ice 4 inches thick will bear men on horseback. Ice 6 inches thick will bear logging teams with light loads. Ice 8 inches thick will bear logging teams with heavy loads. Ice 10 inches thick will bear 1000 lbs. to the square foot. This table is for pure sound ice. LOG MEASURE To ascertain the number of feet (board measure) in a log of a given size, deduct four inches from its diameter at the small end. Square the remainder. Multiply the product by the length of the log and divide by 16. The result will be the board measure contents of the log. Logs over 24 feet in length are usually measured at centre for diameter. 148 THE FOLLOWING IS A PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS Adjustable Plumb and Levels Anvils Sawmaker's Setting Automobile Clutch Discs Back Saws Wood Metal Band Knives Wood Metal Band Saws Band Saw Blanks, (not toothed) Band Saws — Doulsle-Edge for Wood or Metal Band Saws— Flexible Back — for Metal Band Saw Brazing Solder Band Saw Brazing Clamp Band Saw Filing Machines Band Saw Guides Band Saw Levelling Blocks Band Saw Setting Machines Band Saw Swages Bars — Swage Barrel Stave Saws Bed Knives Beef Splitter Saws Beet Knives Beet Knife Gauges Beet Knife Fraisers Bevels Bilge Saws Bolter Saws Bone Saws Border Shears Boy's Buck Saws Brazing Clamps for Band Saws Brazing Solder Brazing Tongs Brazing Torches Bread Knives Brick Trowels Buck Saws Bucks — Saw Bucking Saws — see Cross-cut Burnishers — Cabinet Bushings — Circular Saw Butcher Saws — Blades and Frames Butcher Block Scrapers Butting Saws Cabinet Burnishers Cabinet Saws — Blades and Frames Cabinet Scrapers Cabinet Web Saws Cake Breakers Saws Canadian Web Saws Candy Knives Cane Knives Cementer's Trowels . Chain Saws Chamfering Saws Chipper Knives Chisel Teeth and Holders Chisel Tooth Groovers Chisel Tooth Saws Chisel Tooth Sharpening Machines Chisel Tooth Wrenches Chenille Knives Cigarette Knives Circular Knives Circular Saws for Bone Circular Saws for Horn Circular Saws for Ice Circular Saws for Ivory Circular Saws for Metal Inserted Tooth SoHd Tooth Circular Saws for Slate Circular Saws for Wood Inserted Tooth Solid Tooth Circular Saw Swages Clamps for Brazing Saws Clamps for Filing Saws Cloth Knives Coke Trowels Collars — Steel or Cast Iron for Shingle and Resaws Combination Circular Saws Combination Hand Saws Compass Saws Concave Saws Conqueror Swages Coping Saws Cork Knives Corn Knives Cross-cut Saws or Long Saws Wide or bucking Narrow or felling One-man Cross-cut Saw Tabs Cross-cut Saw Tools Currier Blades Cutlasses Cutters Keyway Lock Corner Cylinder Saws Cylinder Saw Gummers Dado Heads Deal Saws Dehorning Saws Discs for Cutting Cold Metal Ditch Bank Blades Docking Saws Doctor Blades Dovetail Saws Drag Saws Double Mill Saws Eccentric Band-Saw Swage Eccentric Swages for Circular Saws Edger Saws Edging Trowels Emery Wheel Gummer Excelsior Knives Fay Web Saws Felling Saws — see Cross-cut or Long Saws Felloe Web Saws Felt Knives Ferrules Fibre Saws 149 THE FOLLOWING IS A PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS Continued File Card and Brush Files and Rasps Filing Guides and Clamps Filing Machine for Band-Saw Flanges for Circular Saws Flooring Saws Flexible Back Band-Saws Fraisers Friction Discs Futtock Saws Gang Saws Garden Trowels Gauge Saws Gauges — Beet Knife Gauges — Carpenter's Marking Gauges — Mortise Gauges — Set Gauges — Tension Gauges — Wire Gin-Roller Blades Grass Shears Groovers — Chisel Tooth Grooving Saws Solid Inserted Tooth Grinders — Saw Tooth Guides — B and-Sa w Guides for Fihng Saws Gullet-Tooth Circular Saws Gummer Cutters Gummers — Saw Hack Saw Blades For Hand Hack Saws For Machine Hack Saws Hack Saw Frames Hack Saw Hand Saw Pattern Half Back Bench Saw Hammers for Setting Saws Hand Hack Saws Handles Saw Screw-Driver Trowel Hand Saw Jointers Hand Saws for Cross-Cutting Hand Saws for Ripping Hand Screw Presses Hand Shears Handy Kit Saws Hay Cutter Knives Heading Saws Hedge Knives Hedge Shears Hedge Trimmers High-Speed Steel Milling Saws High-Speed Steel Planing Knives Hog Knives Holders for Chisel Teeth Hooks — Pruning Hot Metal Saws Ice Saws Hand Pond Circular Imperial Cross-Cut Saw Tools Ink Plates Inserted Tooth Circular Saws Interlocking Tooth Circular Saws for Metal Internal Cutting Circular Saws Solid Inserted Tooth Iron Saws Ivory Saws Jeweler's Saws Joiner Saws Jointers for Hand Saws Keyhole Saws Keyway Cutters Kitchen Saws Knives Band Circular Saw Machine Knives Bed Beet Bread Candy Chenille Chipper Cigarette Cloth Cork Corn Excelsior Felt Hedge High Speed Steel Planing Hog Lawn-Mower Leather Meat Mincing Mitre Moulding Paper Perforator Pineapple Planing Pruning Rubber Slasher Slitter Stop Cutter Tobacco Veneer Lathe and Axe Handle Saws Lawn Mower Knives Lawn Shears Lap Filing Vises Leather Knives Levels Adjustable Mason's Non-adjustable Pocket Shafting Levelling Blocks for Band Saws Lock Corner Cutters Long Saws (See Cross cut Saws) Machettes Machine for Filing Band-Saws Machine for Setting Band-Saws and Circular Saws Machine for Sharpening Chisel Teeth Machine Knives Magneto Files Mandrels Mason's Levels 150 THE FOLLOWING IS A PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS Continued Mason's Mitr« Rods Meat Knives Metal Saws Band Circular Hand Metal Saws — Interlocking Tooth Metal Slitting Saws Midget Saw Punches Mill Saws Milling Saws for Metal Milling Saws — High-Speed Steel — for Metal Mincing Knives Mitre Box Saws Mitre Knives Mitre Rods — Mason's Mitre Saws — Circular Mitre Squares Mohawk Band Saw Guides Moulding Knives Mulay Saws Nests of Saws One-Man Croas-Cut Saws Panel Saws Paper Knives Pattern Maker's Saws Pearl Saws Perforator Knives Pineapple Knives Pit Saws Planing Knives Plastering Trowels Plates — Ink Plumb-and-Levels Plumber's Nests of Saws Plumber's Saws Pocket Levels Pointing Trowels Pork Packer's Saws Post Hole Diggers Press — Hand Screws Pruning Hook and Saws Pruning Saws Pruning Saws and Knives Pruning Shears Punches for Saw Blades Rail Hack Saws — Blades and Frames Raisin Seeders Rasps Removable Back Saws Re-Saws Rift Saws Rods for Wood Saws Rubber Knives Saw Bucks Saw Clamps and Filing Guides Saw Collars Saw Flanges Saw Handles Saw Knives Saw Maker's Anvils Saw Punches Saw Rods Saw Screws Saw Sets Scrapers Butcher Block Cabinet Wall Screw-Drivers Screw-Driver Hfcndleft Screw Presses Screws — Saw Screw Slotting Saws Sectional Interlocked Circular Saws Seeders — Raisin Segment Saws Set Gauges Sets — Saw Setting Anvils Setting Machines for Band Saws Setting Machines for Circular Saws Setting Stakes Setting Tools Shafting Levels Shapers — Swage Sharpening Machine for Chisel Teeth Sharpening Machine for Circular Metal Saws Sharpening Tools Shears Border Grass Hedge Lawn Pruning Trimming Shingle Saws Ship — Carpenter's Saws Side Files Siding Saws Slasher Saws Slate Saws Slicker Blades Slitter Knives Slitting Saws for Metal Slotted Rim Circular Saws Solder for Brazing Band Saws Solid Tooth Circular Saws Speed Indicators Splitter Saws Spuds — Tobacco Squares Machinists Mitre Try and Bevel Square Hole Saws Stair Builder's Saws Stave Saws Steming Saws for Peanuts Stone Saws Stop Cutter Knives Straight Edges Superfine Files Swages Swage Bars Swage Shapers Swiss Pattern Files Surgical Saws Sword Blades Table Saws Tabs for Cross-Cut Saws Teeth— Chisel Tension Gauges Thin Rim Circular Saws Tiller Handles and Boxes Tobacco Knives Tobacco Spuds Tongs — Brazing Tools for Fitting Cross-Cut Saws Tools for Repairing Saws 151 THE FOLLOWING IS A Top Saws for Double Mills Torches — Brazing Trimmers — Hedge Trimming Shears Trowels Brick Cementer's Circle Coke Corner Cross Joint Edging Garden Plastering Plasterer's Finishing Pointing Tile Setter's Try Squares Tile Setter's Trowels Tubing Saws Turkish Saws Turning Web Saws Universal Cross-Cut Saw Tools PARTIAL LIST OF DISSTON PRODUCTS Continued Veneering Saws Veneer Knives Vises — for Lap Filing Wall Scrapers Web Saws Cabinet Pattern Canadian Chair Fay Felloe Slate Turning Web Saws Blades Frames Rods Whip Saws Wire Gauges Wood Saws Blades Frames Rods Wrenches — for Chisel Tooth Saws 152 INDEX Page Foreword 3 The History and Development of the House of Disston '6 Disston Steel 10 General Information about Circular Saws 13 Styles of Teeth for Circular Saws 13 Solid Tooth Saws ; . 14 Inserted Tooth Saws 14 Disston Standard Gauge 14 List of Equivalents of Gauges. . . 15 How to Order Circular Saws 16 Hints for Operation of Circular Saws 17 Some of the Causes of Complaints against Saws and Saw Makers. . . 18 Setting the Carriage Track and Husk or Saw Frame 18 Lining the Saw with the Carriage 19 Collars for Saws 20 Adjusting Saw to Mill. 20 Saw Guide 21 Speed of Saws 22 Speed of Saws Runnin^g 10,000 Ft. per Minute on the Rim 22 Rules for Calculating Speed, etc.... 22 Speed Indicator 23 Thin and Extra Thin Large Saws. . . 23 Instructions for Setting: and Sharp- ening (or Fitting) Circular Saws. .. 25 Sharpening Cut-Off Saws 29 Saws for Cold Weather Use 33 Sharpening and Gumming with Emery Wheels 33 Trammel for Circular Saw Teeth 35 Gullet-Tooth Circular Saw 36 Tools for Fitting Circular Saws 41 Victor Self-Feeding Saw Gummer 41 Double-Geared No. 1 Saw Gummer. . 42 Cutter Grinder 44 Conqueror Swage, Jumper or Upset. . . 44 Directions for Using the Conqueror Swage 45 Machine for Setting Circular Saws. . . 46 Inserted Tooth Circular Saws 47 Chisel-Point Circular Saws 47 Uses of Chisel-Point Saws 48 How to Order Chisel-Point Saws. .. 48 Styles of Teeth 48 Holders 49 Special Holders 49 Guides 50 Inserting New Points 50 Sharpening Chisel-Points 50 Chisel-Point File 50 Swaging Points 51 Dressing Points 51 Width of Cutting-Edge 52 "Fitting" Saws to Cut Frozen Timber 52 Directions for Ordering Chisel- Points and Holders 53 Important Notice 54 Page Inserted Tooth Saws. No. 10 Pattern 54 Inserted Tooth Re-Saws, No. 16 Pattern 54 Inserted Tooth Circukr Cross-Cut Saws 56 Spiral Tooth Circular Cut-Off Saw 56 Diamond-Point Inserted Tooth Cir- cular Ice Saw 57 Inserted Tooth Saws, American Saw Co.'s Designs 58 Trenton Tooth, 1894 Style 58 Saws for Special Purposes 60 Shingle and Heading Saws 60 Screws for Shingle Saws 60 Flanges or Collars for Shingle and Heading Saws 61 Set Gauge for Shingle, Heading and Veneer Saws 62 Veneering Saws in Segments. 62 Concave Saws 63 Bilge and Cylinder Saws 63 Re-Filing Cylinder and Bilge Saws 64 Chamfering Saw 65 Grooving Saws, Solid Tooth 65 Keystone Groover or Dado Head 66 Lock-Corner Cutters 67 Thin Rim Circular Saws 67 Circular Mitre Saws 68 Circular Mitre Saw with Cleaner Tooth 68 Hammering and Adjusting Circular Saws (Tensioning) 69 Anvil, Hammers, and Straight Edges for Repairing Saws 79 Swage Bar Hammer 79 Swage Bar 79 Circular Saw Mandrels 80 Disston Circular Saw Mandrels 81 Cordwood Mandrels 82 Band Saw^s 83 Left-Hand and Right-Hand Saw Mills 83 Hints for the Operation of Band Saws 83 Directions for Leveling and Tension- ing Band Saws 87 Twists — How to Locate and Remove Them 92 The Care of Band Saw Teeth 96 Standard Shapes and Spacing of Teeth in Disston Band Rip Saws and Re-Saw8 99 Log Band 100 Band Cross-Cut Teeth 103 Brazing Band Saws 104 Brazing Clamp 105 Care of Brazes 106 Directions for Using Lever Brazing Clamp on Narrow Band Saws .... 107 Brazing Tongs 108 Breakage of Small Band Saws 109 List of Machines and Tools to Make Complete Outfit for Band Saw Fil- ing Room 109 Brazing Clamp for Wide Band Saws 1 10 153 INDEX- Page Eccentric Swage for Band Saws..,. 110 Swage Shaper for Band and Gang Saws Ill Swage Shaper 112 Holder for Grinding Swage Shaper Dies 112 Stop Plate for Grinding Table 113 Hand-Screw Press 113 Mohawk Band Saw Guide 114 Improved Setting ^lachine for Nar- row Band Saws 115 Automatic Filing Machine for Nar- row Band Saws 115 Reciprocating Saws .- . 117 Drag-Saws for Motor-Driven Ma- chines lis Tools for Refitting Drag Saws ...... US Cross-Cut Saws 120 Illustrations of Different Patterns of Cross-Cut Saw Teeth 121 Disston High Grade Cross-Cut Saws 123 The Raker or Cleaner Tooth of Cross-Cut Saws 125 Continued Page Care of Cross-Cut Saws 129 Disston Imperial Cross-Cut Saw Tools 129 Setting and Sharpening (or "Fit- ting") with the Imperial 130 Hammer and Anvil 134 Disston Handles for Cross-Cut Saws . 135 Files 137 Machine Knives 139 Table Shows the Value of the Diss- ton Wire Gauge 141 Disston Standard Wire Gauges 142 Useful Information 143 Hydraulics 143 Care of Boilers 144 Attention Necessary to Insure Safety 144 Attention Necessary to Insure Economy 145 Attention Necessary to Secure Durability 146 ^ Belting 147 Strength of Ice 148 Log Measure 1481 List of Disston Products 149^ 154 BENJ, F. EMERY CO.. PHILA. LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 000 980 284 8