THE Madison Guide Book MADISON, WISCONSIN A manual of information, historical, statistical and descrip- tive: with street car and carriage tours about the city and its environs. Illustrated with halftone cuts. BY FRANK A. GILMORE Aloft she sits upon her throne. Betwixt the waters gleaming; Her right hand holds the keys of state. Her left the torch of learning. 1836 Madison Founded. 1856 Became a City. 1905 Population 25,000. Publish.ed at Madison in Sept., 1905 r^^^ ^\^^ LIBRARY of CONGRESS Two Copies Received DEC 14 1905 CoDyrieht Entry CLASS CL XXc. No. COPY B. Copyright, 1905 BY FRANK A. GILMORE STATE JOURNAL PRINTING COMPANY, Printers and Stkreottpers, madison. wis. DEDICATION: To the First Unitarian Society ot Madison, whose Icind- ness has made my life here most pleasant. PREFACE, This book is offered to the public in the hope that it may prove helpful to Madison people and Madison vis- itors. The visitor has been first in mind and I have tried to arrange the material to the best advantage. The cen- tral points are first described and tours in the street cars and by carriage suggested as an easy and quick means of seeing the city and its environs. The author hopes too that even the oldest inhabitant will be p-lad to have such a manual. We have had several publications giv- ing fragments of the information here dealt with, but these have been for the most part advertising media. Good views of the city are for sale. But no one has put together the interesting facts about our citv in a Guide Book. The information here printed comes from several sources. Much of it is scattered through early news- paper files, histories, records and reports'; among the latter " A History of Madison," by Daniel S. Durrie, " The Story of Madison," by Reuben G. Thwaites, and " Madison Past and Present," published by the Wiscon- sin State Journal, have been freely used. Considerable, vi PREFACE. personal observation and note-taking has been neces- sary. Much detailed information that is omitted may be found in the City Directory, the Wisconsin Blue Book and the General Catalog of the University of Wisconsin. The author is under obliijation to Mr. R. G. Thwaites and Mrs. A. W. Moore for helpful advice; and to the Cantwell Printing Co., the Madison Democrat, the Uni- versity of Wisconsin and the State Journal for the loan of cuts. Frank A. Gilmore. TABLE OF CONTENTS. Dedication, iii. Preface, v. Dedicatory Poem, 2. General Information — Situation, 8. Railways, 3. Distance from Milwaukee, etc., 3. Institutions of the city, 3, 4. Dane County, 4. The name, 4. Statistics, 4. The Four Lake Region, 4. How formed, 4. How named, 5. The Site of Madison, 5. The lake-girt isthmus, 5. Situation compared with other American cities, 5. Sky-line of Madison. 6. Sunset across Mendota. 6. Lakes Monona and Mendota, 6. Elevation: area; depth, 6, 7. Shore line. 7. Lake Wingra, 7. Description: Improvements planned, 7. Bird's-Eye View of the City, 9. From the capitol dome, 9. From University Hall, 9. Opinions of visitors. 9, 10. H. W. Longfellow's poem, 10. yiii TABLE OF CONTENTS. Indian History and Remains, 11. Indian mounds, 11. Their origin, 11. Mrs. John Kensie's "Waubun," 11. Madison and the retreat of Black Hawk, 13. Indian graves, 12, 13. Historical Sketch of the City, 13. Historical data, 14. The city's growth, 14. Recent change in character of the city, 15. The Capitol and Park, 15. General statistics: size and contents of the capitol, 15, 16. Description of the park, 16, 17. Tour No. 1.— Around Capitol Square, 18. Monona Avenue — G. A. R. Headquarters, 18. Elks' Club House, 18. Home of Gen. David Atwood, 18. Home of Gen. Lucius Fairchild, 19. View from foot of Monona avenue, 19. West Main Street, 19. Dane County Buildings, 19. St. Raphael's Church, 19. Carroll Street. 20. Site of old Baptist Church, 20. West Washington Avenue, 20. Grace Episcopal Church, 20. First Congregational Church, 20. St. Reginia Convent. West Dayton Street, 20. New Baptist Church, 20. Madison Free Library, 21. The High School, 21. School Facilities in Madison, 23. Wisconsin Avenue, 23. Masonic Temple. 23, 24. Presbyterian Church, 23. Methodist Episcopal Church, 24. Unitarian Church, 24. TABLE OF CONTENTS. ix Tour No. 1. — con. Mifflin Street, 24. The City Hall, 24. Fuller Opera House, 25. The Post Office. 25. Woman's Rest Rooms, 25. German Evangelical Church, 25. German Methodist Church, 25. PiNCKNEY Street, 25. Market Square and E. Washington Avenue, 26. St. John's Lutheran Church, 26. Zion Church 26. East Washington Avenue Proposed Improvement. 26. East Main Street, 26. St. Patrick's Church, 26. St. Paul Church. Oldest church in the city, 26, 27. Names and Divisions of Madison Streets, 27. Tour No. 2.— In Street Cars to University and Western End of the City, 27. State Street, 28. Buildings of the Holy Redeemer Society, 28. Wisconsin Academy, 28. University of Wisconsin, 28-39. The Lower Campus, 28. Armory, 28. Boat House, 28. Young Men's Christian Ass'n Building, 29. The Historical Library, 29. The President's House, 31. The Upper Campus. 31. Science Hall, 31. Chemical Laboratory, 32. Machine Shops, 32. Central Heating Plant. 32. View of Mendota from the Bluff. 32. Old Library Hall, 32. Chadbourne Hall, 32. Law Building. 33. X TABLE OF CONTENTS. Tour No, 2.— The Upper Campus, con. Engineering Building, 33. North and South Halls, 33. University Hall: view from the roof, 34. The Western Campus. 34. Chemical Hall, 35. Washburn Observatory, 35. Beauty of the University Site, 35. Agricultural Hall, 36. Dairy Building— the Babcock Milk test, 36. Horticultural Hall, 36. University Barns, 37. Camp Randall, 37. University Data, 37-39. Departments, 37. Finances, 38. Grounds, 38. Growth of the Institution, 38. Causes of Growth. 39. University Heights, Wingra Park, West Ijawn and the Cemeteries, 39. Forest Hill Cemetery, 39, 40. Calvary Cemetery, 40. Henry Vilas Park and the Lake Wingra Improvement, 40. Edgewood Villa, 40. Home of Congressman Adams, 41. Tour No. 3.— In Street Cars to Elmside and the Eastern Limits, 41. The Railroad Depots, 41. Implement Row, 41. Manufacturing Establishments, 41. The Yahara River, 41. Lake Side Park, 42. Elmside and Fair Oaks, 42. 43. Tour No. 4.— In Street Cars.— W. Main and E. Johnson street line, 43. W. Main street to the depots, 43. E. Mitflin street, S. Hamilton to E. Johnson, 43. TABLE (3F CONTENTS. xi Tour No. 4. — cor,. Norwegian Lutheran Church, 48. Madison Water Works — Tlie City Water Supply, 43. End of the line and Manufacturing plants, 44. Tour No. 5.— Carriage Tour.— West and South, 44. Wisconsin Avenue, 44. Home of Ex-Senator Wm. F. Vilas, 44. Langdon Street, 44. Home of U. S. Senator John C. Spooner, 44. Over University Hill to the Raymer Drive, 44. 45. Variety of scenery — Summer cottages, 45. Merrill Springs, 45. Eagle Heights, 46. View of the city, 46. Burial mound, 46. Return via Owen Park to Greenbush and South Madison 46, 47. Owen Park, 47. Greenbush, 47. Madison General Hospital, 47. Hebrew Synagogue, 47. South Madison, 47. The Sanitarium, 48. Dane County Fair Grounds, 48. Monona Bay and Brittingham Park, 48. Tour No. 6.— Carriage Drive East, to Sixth Ward, Ten- ney Park and Mendota Asylum, 48. Spaight Street and Monona Lake Park, 49. Site of Orphans' Home, 49. Orton Park, 49. Water Street and the Yaliara River, 49. Sewage Disposal Works, 49. Contagious Hospital, 51. End of East Washington Avenue, 51. Tenney Park; the Yahara lock; Willow Drive. 51. Improvements in progress, 51-53. xii TABLE OF CONTENTS. Tour No. 6.— con. From the Yahara to Mendota Asylum — Estate of Edw. M. Fuller, 58. The Farwell Drive, 53. The Golf Grounds, 54. Maple Bluff, 54. Mendota Asylum for the Insane, 54. Indian mounds, 54. Governor's Island and Rocky Roost, 55. Farwell Point, 55. Return via Farwell Drive and Sherman Avenue, 55.' The lake shore homes, 55. Governor's residence, 55-57. Completion of the tour, 57. Trips by Water, 57-59. Boat liveries. 59. Picnic Point, 58. Steamer and launch trips. 58. The Askew steamers, 59. Lakeside Assembly. 59, Esther Beach, 59. Steamer Wisconsin and sail around Mendota Lake, 59. Steamer Putter II.. 60. Fishing and Hunting, 60. The State Fish Hatchery, 61. Parks and Drives, 61. Libraries, 63. Intellectual Life, 63. Moral Life, 64. Literary Madison, 64-67. Art in Madison, 67. 68. Madison as a Convention City, 68. Madison as a Summer Resort, 69. Madison as a Manufacturing City, 70. Madison as a Business City, 70. Madison as a Permanent Home, 71, 72. The Genius of Madison. The forest waved upon the heights, When once amid the wild, The foam upon Monona's hreast Became a spirit child. Prophetic purpose in her eyes, A light illumed her hair, Her form, like sea-born Venus, glowed As lovely and as fair. The city's guardian genius! The lake encircled height, A royal seat whereon to show Her wisdom and her might. Fulfilled her high-born mission ; Around her far and near Its roofs and towers a city spread Built by the pioneer. The child has grown to woman; The increment of years Reveals the meaning of her youth, Her stately form appears. Aloft she sits upon her throne Betwixt the waters gleaming, Her right hand holds the keys of state, Her left the torch of learning. The limits of a commonwealth Bound not her voice to-day ; Her torch shall gleam along the earth Forever and for a\ e. General Information. HE City of Madison, named after ames Madison, fourth president of the United States, is in Dane county, Wis- consin, twenty-three miles from the eastern line of the county, nineteen from the western, fifteen from the northern and southern lines respect- ively. Three great trunk lines converge here in eight divisions; they are the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul R. R., the Chicago & Northwestern R. R. and the Illinois Central R. R. Thus ample trans- portation is given in all directions. From Madison the cit}' of Milwaukee is seventy-five miles east; the Mississippi river is ninety miles west; to the south boundary of Wisconsin is thirty-nine miles, and to the north boundary two hundred and sixty. The city is in the direct line of traffic from Chicago (distant one hundred and thirty-nine miles south) to St. Paul,. Minneapolis and the great northwest. At once the capital of the state and the county seat of Dane county, Madison contains many important institu- tions and offices. Here are the Capitol building with its departments; the University of Wisconsin; the Gover- . THE CITY OF MADISON. nor's residence; the building of the State Historical so- ciety; the United States courts; the county court house and jail. Distinguished persons reside here: Governors, justices of the supreme court, senators and representa- tives in congress, ex-ministers and consuls to foreign gov- ernments, authors, artists and scientists. Dane County Was named for Nathan Dane, congressman from Massa- chusetts, who helped frame the famous " Ordinance of 1787" for the government of the Northwest Territory. One clause of this ordinance declared that " there shall be neither slavery nor involuntary servitude except as a punishment for crime." This county is the second largest in the state, com- prising 1,200 square miles, or 807,400 acres of land. Population, 79,000. The census of 1903 gives 2,359,651 bushels of corn, 3,669,517 bushels of oats, 11,676,332 pounds of tobacco, 2,679,4.55 pounds of butter, 1,611,655 pounds of cheese, among the crop reports of Dane county. Topography— The Four Lakes. The salient feature of this region is the chain of four lakes extending from northwest to southeast and con- nected by the Yahara or " Catfish " river. They were formed bv a glacier which extended southwest from Green Bay to Madison. This slow-acting but titanic agent also threw up the hills, which now, crowned with oaks or golden with grain, make the summer landscape varied and charming. TYCIIOBERAH. 5 Tychoberah Is the Indian name for the h\ke country. The early set- tlers simply called them first, second, third and fourth lakes; these numerical names are still in common use. In 1854 Gov. L. J. Farwell, assisted by Dr. Lyman Draper, secretary of the State Historical society, gave the lakes their more euphonious names. First lake be- came Kegonsa, or " fish " lake; the second became Wau- besa, "swan;" the third Monona, "spirit" or "beauti- ful;" and the fourth Mendota, " gathering of the waters " or " great lake." The Site of Madison, Between Lakes Monona and Mendota, is a high rolling isthmus extending southwest and northeast, about one- half a mile in width. On this the city sits like a queen upon her throne, its base laved by the waves; while the domes of the Capitol and of University hall typify the guardian spirits — Legislation and Learning. Few American cities can match its picturesque natural situa- tion. Boston, Mass., and Pordand, Me., have fine har- bors broken by headlands and islands. W?shington, D. C, is bordered by the lordly Potomac: Philadelphia has both the Delaware and the Schuylkill; Detroit and Milwaukee have a lake front, but no city in this country that we can recall has just the combination of land and w^ater that Madison has. If it lacks the clifis and surges of the ocean, it has an almost complete setting of spark- ling water. Front and back they hem the city in. Neither Washington nor Philadelphia has our undulat- 6 THE CITY OF MADISON. ing hilly background-, and we know of no other lake city thus uniquely placed between two bodies of water. The SKy Line of the City. To persons susceptible to beautiful effects this is strik- ing. At sunset from lake Monona the city looms in sharp outline against the colored skyey background. The Capitol, the lofty water-tower, church spires and other tall structures seem etched upon the firmament, suggesting that city of the poets' reverie, seen " In cloudland or the land of dreams Bathed in a golden atmosphere/' Sunset Across Mendota. To speak of our sunsets may sound provincial; yet the effects across Mendota surpass any mere inland view. The changing tints of heaven are intensified by the broad mirror of the water, which becomes a sheet of gorgeous color. Madison people delight to show visitors this beau- tiful spectacle. Lakes Monona and Mendota Are approximately eight hundred and forty five feet above ocean level, and two hundred and ten feet higher LAKE WINGRA. 17 than Lake Michigan. Monona is three, miles in length and two in width; its area is five square miles; greatest depth seventy-five feet. The tracks of the Chicago. Milwaukee and St. Paul and those of the Chicago and North Western Railroads run along the city shore of Monona. Mendota is the largest of the four lakes. It is five feet higher than Monona; greatest length six miles: width four miles; area fifteen square miles; circumfer- ence twenty-two miles; greatest depth eighty-four feet, Both lakes have a broken and varied shore line. Blutis and embankments rise from forty to one hundred and twent}^ five feet above the water, their sides and tips covered with trees and shrubs. Between them are fields of hav, wheat or corn, with an occasional meadow green with rushes and swarming with blackbirds. Lake Wingra Lies one and one half miles west of the capitol; a strip of land less than one quarter of a mile broad separates it from the Monona bay (that part of Monona lake en- closed by the railroad tracks). It is commonly spoken of as Dead lake because it has no inlet and is only con- nected with Monona by a sluggish stream. Wingra lake skirts Wingra Park and South Madison, two of the west- ern suburbs of the city; it is circular in shape with a diam- ater of one mile; depth twent3^-five feet. This lake is now being improved b}' the Madison Park and Pleasure Drive association. Henry Yilas park of sixty acres will occupy the northwest shore: the shore will be filled and the lake dredged; the outlet will be widened and deep- H O The Daisy Field on Raymer Drive OPINIONS OF VISITORS. p ened to give boats a waterway to Lake Monona and a broad driveway built along the north shore through the grounds of the Edgewood Female Academy. Bird's=Eye Views of the City. The best view is from the capitol dome. Since the fire of February 24, 1904 the dome has been considered unsafe and visitors are not allow^ed there. When the new building soon to be erected is done, this fine view will be accessible to all. The next best view is from the roof of University Hall, the highest building on the University grounds. i\ccess to it may be had every day except Sunday by applying to the accommodating janitor of the hall. From this roof the city spreads out like a map eastward bourided by the rolHng county; the lakes embrace its sides and stretch away into the distance. See cut, p. 34. To the north is Maple Bluft^and the State x\sylum for the Insane. Picnic Point thrusts out from the western shore of Mendota like an arm; Eagle Heights raises its oak- covered shoulder beyond. West are the university barns and fields, and Forest Hill cemetery. South of the spec- tator is Lake Wingra and the suburbs. University Heights, Wingra Park and South Madison. Lake Ke- gonsa appears far awa}'^ over the hills. At one's feet are the o-founds and buildino-s of the Universitv. From no other point can so fine a view be had at this time, and the visitor to Madison should not fail to take it. Opinions of Visitors. The natural beauty of the city and its surroundings strike all visitors, and all give the same verdict of praise. lO THE CITY OF MADISON. Horace Greeley, who was in Madison in 1858, said: "It is the most magnificent site of any inland town 1 ever saw." Bayard Ta^'lor and Sir Edwin Arnold expressed similar admiration. The Poet Longfellow's Tribute *'The Four Lakes of Madison," may be found in his well-known poems: "Four limpid lakes, four Naides Or svlvan deities are these, In flowing robes of azure dressed; P'our lovely handmaids that uphold Their shining mirrors rimmed with gold, To the fair city of the AVest. " Bv day the coursers of the sun Drink of these waters as they run Their swift diurnal round on high ; By night the constellations glow Far down the hollow deeps below, And glimmer in another sky. "Fair lakes serene and full of light, Fair town arrayed in robes of white. How visionary ye appear! All like a floating landscape seems In cloudland or the land of dreams. Bathed in a golden atmosphere!" Two pictures of Madison and the lakes, by the artist Thomas Moran, were exhibited at the Centennial Expo- sition at Philadelphia in 1876. The above poem was w^ritten b}' Mr. Longfellow to accompany thse paintings. INDIAN HISTORY AND REMAINS. n They were destroved in the fire which burned the first Science Hall, in 1884. Mr. Longfellow never visited Madison, but after his death his daughter married Mr. Joseph Thorpe of this city. Indian History and Remains. From immemorial time the Four Lake region was the seat of Indian communities. Well marked totem mounds are seen on the grounds of the Insane Asylum, one a deer, another a bird with outstretched wings. Along the north shore of Mendota are man}^ interesting remains which ought to be preserved to posterit}. The burial tumuli are on the hiirh o^round; below them the totem mounds of bear, squirrel and other animals. Between these and the shore stood the village, its site indicated by well- marked corn hills, the same ground and the same hills being used by the Indians year after year. Other mounds mav be seen at Eaixle Heiirhts and at Merrill Sprin^-s at the western end of Mendota. These mounds are not the work of some prehistoric race, as is popularly be- lieved. Here, as elsewhere, they were made by the Indians, some of them after the whites came into the Mississippi valley. In 1828, when this region was first visited by white people, there were no Indians within the present city limits; but along the north shore of Mendota were sev- eral Winnebago villages. Mrs. John H. Kenzie, wife of the Indian agent of the government at Fort Winne- bago, accompanied her husband from that place to Chi- cago in 1831. On the ninth of March they passed these encampments. In her book, " Waubun, the Early Day 12 THE CITY OF MADISON. in the Northwest," she speaks of the " matted lodges clustering beneath the trees and the Indians in their primitive costumes." Madison is somewhat thrillingly connected with the famous Black Hawk war of 1832. On the twentieth of Jul\% in that year, Black Hawk, flee- ing from the white troopers, led his exhausted band of Sacs across the present site of Madison in the attempt to escape across the Mississippi. The Indians came over the Yahara river near the Williamson street bridge, passed over the low ground to the Capitol hill, skirted this and marched over University hill, and away north- west toward the Wisconsin river. That night the white camped just be3^ond the Yaliara. On the twenty-first of July they followed the track of the Indians. Two Indian stragglers were shot near the Yahara. One of these calmh^ met death as he sat on a newly-made grave — probably that of his wife. The battle of Wisconsin, Heights was fought on the evening of the twenty-first, in which one white man and several Indians were slain. A few days later, at Bad Axe, on the Mississippi, Black Hawk's band was almost annihilated and his power crushed forever. Mr. Geo. W. Stoner, a Madison pioneer, remembers fresh Indian graves within the city limits. The sand ridge between lakes Wingra and Monona was a place of hidian burial. With the body was placed a blanket, a gun or bow and arrows, a shirt, moccasins and trinkets. The place was marked by poles cut with a tomahawk. For many years the red men were familiar iigures in the early days of the city, riding single tile on their ponies HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE CITY. 13 or pitching their tepees alono- tlie shore. Gradually they have been confined to their reservations and are only seen now when a group is brought down to attend the United States court. " Alas, for them, their day is o'er, Their hi^-hts are out from shore to shore, No more for them the wild deer bounds, The plow is on their hunting grounds." Pictures of Black Hawk and other Indians celebrated in Wisconsin history may be seen at the State Historical library, as well as a large collection of articles belonging to the Indians. Historical Sketch of the City. Madison was chosen to be the capitol of Wisconsin Territory at the first meeting of the legislature held at Belmont, Lafayette county, in 1836. The land was owned by James Duane Doty, of Green Ba}^ and S. T. Mason, of Michigan, who had paid for it $1.25 per acre. There were at that time five white men in Dane county, none in Madison. The first white family to settle here was that of Eben Peck, who put up a log house on what is now No. 128 S. Butler street. The structure stood frotn 1837 to 1857. John Catlin, the first postmaster, put up the tirst frame house where the Postoflice now stands. The corner-stone of the old Capitol was laid July 4, 1837. It was built of stone taken from Maple BluH', and ferried across the lake to the foot of S. Ham- ilton street. The inside finish was sawed from the tim- ber growing on the hill where now stands the Governor's residence, the sawmill being located on the present site of Conklin's ice-houses. The first white child born here, J. THE CITY OF MADISON. September 14, 1848, was appropriately named Wiscon- siana Peck. The first school-house stood on the north- east corner of S. Pinckney and E. Dayton streets, on the spot now occupied by Dr. Lyman's home. Becoming crowded, a broad shelf reached by a ladder was placed across one end of the room for the little pupils. David A. Wright, still living in Madison, taught this school in 1844. The legislature first met here November 26, 1838. A hotel was put up and a newspaper started that year. A church was built in 1846. It still stands on S. Web- ster street. Tiie telegraph came in 1848. A grand event was the arrival of the first railroad train. Twenty-five hundred people came in thirty-tw^o coaches; fire compa- nies from Milwaukee rode on flat-cars; there w^as a grand procession, with dinner and speeches in the park. The University of Wisconsin was opened in February, 1848, in the building of the Female academy — wdiere the High School now stands. This was a preparatory course. The college courses date from 1850. Madison became a city March 4, 1856. Its growth has been slow but substantial. In 1855 Dr. Lyman C. Draper said: "We now have a population of 6,800; by i860 we shall number 20,000." But the tide of immi- gration passed to Milwaukee, St. Paul and other places. Dr. Draper's prophecy did not come true for half a cen- tur\\ The folio w^ing figures show the city's growth: 1837, population 3 1880, popul ation 10,324 1S40 146 1890 i3,4^^> 1850 1,672 1900 19,164 i860 6,681 1905 25,000 1S70 9,176 (s, uburbs included) THE CAPITOL AND PARK. 15 Madison has been an academic town, with little manu- facturing. The past ten years have witnessed important chano-es. Ten thousand souls have been added to the population ; the University has expanded enormously ;. farmers are moving into the city to educate their chil- dren ; manufactures have been established; the tobacco business is centering here; railroad facilities have in- creased. The old quiet Madison is being transformed into a modern city. The Capitol and Park. The visitor to Madison naturally comes first to the center of the city, the great square of business blocks surrounding the fine park, and the stately Corinthian Capitol standing diagonally across it. The first Capitol stood from 1837 to 1863. The central part of the pres- ent building was then put up. The iron dome was put on in 1870. In 1882 the north and south wrings were added. One miillion dollars have been expended on the structure and grounds. February 27, 1904, a fire de- stroyed the interior of the capitol which has been tem- porarily repaired. A new structure will soon take its place. The following facts about the present capitol will be of interest. From the base to the eagle upon the flag-staft'the dis- tance is two hundred and twenty-five feet. From east to w^est the building is two hundred and twenty-six feet and from north to south three hundred and ninety-six. The general plan is a cross; two corridors intersect at the rotunda where one has a view into the lofty concave of the dome. On the first floor are the executive cham- j5 the city of madison. bers and offices of the various state departments. In the east wing is the Senate chamber. The marble statue of the genius of Wisconsin (in the rotunda), a young and graceful female with her hand resting on an eagle's head, is the work of Mary F. Mears, of Oshkosh, Wisconsin. This marble bird recalls " Old Abe," the famous war eagle of Wisconsin, whose stut^ed body was destro3^ed in the capitol fire February 27, 1904. Miss Mears is a pupil of the sculptor St. Gaudens; she made the statue of Francis Willard now in the capital at Washington, D. C. On the second floor are the chambers of the Supreme Court; headquarters of the Wisconsin G. A. R. (now temporarily at No. 117 N. Hamilton street); State Li- brary Commission ; Superintendent of Public Instruction ; Railroad Rate Commission and Bank Examiner. In the east wing is the Assembly chamber. On the third floor of the south wing are the rooms of the Dairy and Food Commission; the Board of Agricul- ture; the Adjutant General; and Regents of the Normal Schools. The fourth floor south wing contains the State Fish Commission and Legislative Committee rooms. The north wing third floor has the Legislative Refer- ence rooms; the fourth floor is unoccupied. In the basement are the vaults of the Secretary of State, store rooms, engine and boiler rooms. The Capitol Park Is nine hundred and fourteen feet square, comprising fourteen and one half acres and corners exactly to the THE CAPITOL PARK. 17 four cardinal points of the compass. The land was given to the state by the original owners, Messrs. Doty and Mason. It may be of interest to remember that the world-famous great pyramid of Egypt covers the same space as this park. The park is seventy feet above the lakes. It is most beautiful in summer with its smooth lawn, beds of flowers, numerous trees and chattering grey squirrels. These little creatures are fed every day, and were it not for ^the dogs would be even tamer than they are. It is a common sight to see them taking nuts from the hands of children. A broad granolithic walk goes around the outside edge of the park; a concrete driveway extends about the building with egress at the four irates. The stone iratewavs at the entrances are part of a $30,000 fence which formerly surrounded the park. On the gate standards are female figures repre- senting Melpomone, muse of Tragedy, with the mask, and Ceres, Flora and Pomona, deities of flowers and harvests. At the southeast angle of the Capitol a foun- tain plays throughout the summer; its basin contains carp, trout and other fish. Near the building on the same side is a public drinking fountain. Four cannon, captured by the Fourteenth regiment Wisconsin volun- teers at Pittsburg Landing, April 7, 1862, stand in the park. In front of the east wing is a female figure w^th the w^atchword "Forward." This statue was the Wis- consin women's memorial at the Chicago Worlds Fair in 1893. It is the work of a Madison lady, Jean P. Miner, daughter of Rev. H. A. Miner, editor of the Northwestern Mail, formerly published here. l8 THE CITY OF MADISON. Tour Number One. A Tour Around the Capitol Square. The visitor, after seeing the Capitol and park, then turns to the buildings and other objects of interest about the square. Starting from the south entrance to the park we observe tirst the broad street going down to the bank of lake Monona. This is named Monona Av- enue. Walking down its western side (the right hand side going toward lake Monona) we pass the G. A. R. Headquarters, a stone building adjoining the Avenue Hotel. This is open to visitors. Here are civil war memorials, pictures, records, etc. It is the home of the Lucius Fairchild Post, Grand Arni}^ of the Republic, of the Woman's Relief Corps and other affiliated societies. A few steps beyond is the elegant and'commodious Club House of the Madison Elks, No. 120 Monona avenue, opened in 1902. It contains a bowling alley in the base- ment, parlors, reading, card and cloak rooms on the first floor. The upper story is taken up by a large, well appointed lodge hall. Continuing the walk from the Elk's club house, we pass the Home of the Late David Atwood, 204 Monona avenue. General Atwood came to Madison in 1847; he died in 1889. In 1852 he founded the Wisconsin State Journal; as editor, politician, mayor of the city, member of the state legislature and the U. S. congress, he exerted a wide influence. On July 14, 1854, a ^'reat mass meeting was held on the east steps of the Capitol at Madison. This w^as the beginning of the Re- publican party, and no man was more active on that day than David Atwood. He was a member of the com- TOUR NUMBER ONE. jp mittee on resolutions, and was one of those who drafted and presented the platform of that memorable meeting. At the lake end of Monona avenue is another historic house, the Home of the Late General Lucius A. Fairchild. It is a large redbrick structure with extensive o-rounds enclosed ;\vith a hio-h board fence. Till his death in 1896 General Fairchild was an admired and beloved citizen. He was a "forty-niner," making the trip over the plains with ox teams; a soldier in nine great battles of the civil war, losing an arm at Gettysburg; thrice elected Governor of Wisconsin; U. S. consul at Liverpool and Paris ; minister to Spain ; commander-in-chief of the Grand Army of the Republic; he rounded out his brilliant ca- reer in the quiet, unselfish service of a private citizen. The view from the .foot of Monona avenue holds us for a few moments: the open lake and the green hills which frame it in. Returning up the avenue we go west one block be- yond capitol square, passing the Park hotel, to the Dane County Court House (207 W. Main street), with jail and sherill's house adjoining (219 W. Main street). The court house contains the offices of the County Clerk, Treasurer, Register of Deeds, Sheriff, Assessors and Overseers on the first floor; on the upper floors are rooms of the Ninth Judicial Circuit Court, the County Court and the Municipal Court. The building was fin- ished in 1882, and cost $180,000. Opposite the court house is St. Raphael's Church, a large rectangular building of sandstone, built in 1864 at a cost of $65,000. The parochial school buildings are in the rear. 20 THE CITY OF MADISON. Going back now to the corner at the Park hotel, we walk down Carroll street to W. Washington avenue, passing the Wisconsin Telephone building on the way. This was the site of the First Baptist church. Here Emerson, Lowell, Horace Greeley and other celebrities have lectured. West Washington Avenue is the finest street in the city. It runs west for over one mile, crossing the tracks of the Illinois Central and Chi- cago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroads. Bordered with beautiful homes, with w^ell-kept lawns and boulevards, it IS a dehght to the eye. At the corner of W. Wash- ington avenue and Carroll street is the very complete plant of the Grace Episcopal society, consisting of the church, erected in 1858; Cornelia Vilas Guild hall, erected in 1894, and the rectory, erected in 1893, at a total cost of $70,000. One block beyond Grace church, at No. 202 W. Washington avenue, is the First Congregational church. Its cost was $60,000, built of sandstone in 1874. The brick vestry was a predecessor of the present church. At 303 W. Washington avenue is the St. Re- gina convent, in charge of the Dominican Sisters. Continuing our walk down North Carroll street, we cross W. Mifflin and State streets at the corner; passing along N. Carroll to W. Dayton street we are in front of the new Baptist Church, erected in 1902 at a cost of $25,000. Here an interesting work is being done to reach the boys of the city. A gymnasium, lockers and swimming tank have been built in the basement and a reading room is open every evening. The church is al- ways open to inspection. TOUR NUMBER ONE. 21 Opposite the Baptist church is the new Free Library, the gift of Mr. Andrew Carnegie, costing $75,000. It is of red brick with trimmings of Bedford granite in the style of old English universit}^ buildings. At this writ- ing the structure is unhnished. It will contain the books Free Library erected 1905, cost $75,000. The gitt of Andrew Carnegie. of the city free library ; a School for Library Training will be opened in this building by the Wisconsin Library Com- mission. Turning east along W. Dayton street we see the Mad- ison High School It was put up in 1873 on the site of the old Female Academy, enlarged in 1887, and has cost TOUR NUMBER ONE. 23 $65,000. Nearly six hundred pupils are enrolled, this being the largest High School in the state with one ex- ception, that of the West Side High School in Milwaukee. The present antiquated edifice wall soon be replaced, in accordance with a recent popular vote, by a commodious modern High School, with manual training, commercial course, domestic science and gymnasium. The new building w^ill accommodate one thousand pupils. A word about School Facilities in Madison. We are justly proud of these. The influence of the great State University reaches down through all the grades and is felt by every pupil and teacher. From the first courses the way is open and the pupil is incited to acquire a thorough education and receive a University degree. Thirty-five hundred pupils are enrolled in the public schools of the city; these are accommodated in eleven buildings and taught by ninety-one teachers. Eighteen per cent, of the pupils enrolled are in the high school, this being the largest proportion in the state. Several high grade private and parochial schools are training one thousand more pupils, so that the total number of pupils in the schools of the city is about forty-five hun- dred (this does not include the students in the university). The High School extends along Wisconsin avenue up which we now turn. We are impressed by this broad and beautiful thoroughfare and the sight of the Capitol at its southern end. At the corner of Wisconsin avenue and E.Johnson street is the Masonic Temple, a redbrick building, formerly the Presbyterian church. Hiram Lodge, No. 50, F. & A. M.; Madison Lodge, No. 5, F. & A. M.; Madison Chapter and Council; Robert 24 THE CITY OF MADISON. Macoy Commandery, and Madison Chapter of the East- ern Star meet here. A club room, open to members and visiting brethren, is in the basement. At 223 Wisconsin avenue is the site of the old store kept by Jehu Lewis. Over this store was the first theatre in Madison, 1851-52. A private school taught by Prof. George, an Englishman, was held in the same hall. Let us now retrace our steps along Wisconsin avenue toward the Capitol. At the corner of the avenue and Dayton street are three churches. On the southwest corner is Christ Presbyterian Church. It is of red brick, built in 1892; cost sixty thousand dollars. On the northeast corner of Wisconsin avenue and E. Dayton streets is the First Methodist Church, a plain large stone building, finished in 1876 at a cost of fifty thousand dollars. The Unitarian Church, a small stone building, with rounded windows and stone porch, stands across E. Dayton street from the First Methodist church. It cost eighteen thousand dollars, erected in 1886. We walk one blcck toward the Capitol and are at the City Hall, corner W. Mifiiin and Wisconsin avenue. It is of grey stone, three stories high, surmounted by a box- like clock tower. When built in 1858 it was thought to be an imposing edifice. The Madison free library fills the first floor. The books are soon to be removed to the new building on N. Carroll street. This was the first free public library in the state: opened in May, 1875. Eighteen thousand volumes are on its shelves. On the second floor are the Mayor's ofiice. Alder- men's chamber, rooms of the City Treasurer, Clerk and Engineer and Board of Water Commissioners. An un- TOUR NUMBER ONE. 2< used hall is on the third floor. Fuller Opera House (Nos. 6 to lo W. Mitflin street) adjoins City Hall. This is an up-to-date theatre, fire proof, seats twelve hundred, built in 1890. A few steps across Wisconsin avenue brings us to the Postoffice; erected in 187 1 of light stone, three stories high. The lower floor is taken up by the postofflce de- partment. E. W. Keyes, the present Postmaster, has been appointed to this oflice by six Presidents of the United States and is now serving his seventh term. The oflice of Pension Examiner, United States Marshal, Ref- eree in Bankruptcy, Collector of Internal Revenue and other federal officials are on the second floor; the third floor contains the chamber of the United Sates court. Going one block east from the postofflce we reach N. Pinckney street. A block north on this street is the Woman's Rest Rooms. Here the wives and daughters of farmers are entertained; rooms are also provided for young women who come as strangers to the city. The house is always open and information is cheerfully given by the matron in charge. The light brick church corner N. Pinckney and N. Hamilton streets is the German Evangelical Church; built in 1865, and valued at fourteen thousand dollars. Another block east along Mifflin street stands the Ger- man Methodist Church in red brick. It cost eight thousand dollars; erected in 1864. Returning to N. Pinckney street and going south we are at Market Square. This is the head of E. Washing- ton Avenue, overshadowed by the tall and now unused 26 THE CITY OF MADISON. water tower. Scores of farmers' wagons, with hay, wood and other produce, line the square, giving a busy aspect to the place. In the space below the tower is held a monthly horse sale, when expert buyers from Chicago View of cily east from; and Milwaukee dicker with the local owmers. Further down E. Washington avenue, at No. 322, the new St. John's German Lutheran Church is being built; it will cost $30,000. A little beyond, across the avenue at No. 531, is Zion Church, German Lutheran ; it is a new building, dating from 1900, and cost $8,000. The Louisa M. Brayton School is on the south side of the avenue. This is the Third Ward school and named for the lady who taught the first school in Madison in 1838. East Washington avenue is a straight broad street stretching eastward for two miles, past the great facto- ries of the cit}^, across the Yahara to the city limits. A magnificent plan for its improvement has been prepared. TOUR NUMBER TWO. 27 It will be graded and macadamized; a boulevard, with curbing, shrubbery, flowers and grass will fill its center^ leaving ample space for teams on each side. This will add greatly to the beauty of the eastern half of the city. ■y^i. ,', ^im^^ m im\-^" roof of University Hall. Regaining Pinckney street and the Capitol square, w^e walk south past the banks and shops to the corner of E. Main street. Here King street, with electric car tracks, goes down the hill to the railroad depots. By walking to 410 E. Main street we may see St. Patrick's Catholic Church. Built in 1888 and enlarged in 1894, it is valued at $40,000. Near by, at 15 S. Webster street, is a small white wooden church occupied by the St. Paul Presbyterian Society (German). It was the First House OF Worship in Madison, built in 1846. In 1847 the first bell in the city was placed in its steeple. Many well known American authors and scholars have lectured here in days gone by. Retracing our steps westward 28 THE CITY OF MADISON. along Main street, we reach Monona avenue, the point from which our tour began. The newcomer is puzzled by our Street Diver- sions. By remembering that the streets are named from the point where they cross the four broad avenues, we shall soon "get on to the combination." Thus Main street, which passes the capitol park on its south side, is divided into East and West Main from where it crosses Monona avenue; Carroll street skirts the western side of the park ; it is North and South Carroll from its cross- ing at W. Washington avenue. Mifflin on the north side becomes East and West Mitfiin from Wisconsin avenue. Pinckney passes the park on the east and is divided into South and North Pinekney by market square, the head of E. Washington avenue. All streets parallel to these are similarly divided and similarly named. Our streets were originally named for the signers of the constitution of the United States. Hence such names as Hancock street, Langdon street, Pinckney street, Rut- ledge street, etc. Tour Number T-wo. To THE University and W^estern end of the City. We may continue the tour of the city by the street cars. These run on a twelve-minute schedule and pass the park on all sides. From where we are now stand- ing at the head of Monona avenue, the line will take us to both the eastern and the western limits of the city. We will board a west-bound car, ride down Carroll street to State street and the University of Wisconsin. TOUR NUMBER TWO. 29» By looking to the right as the car crosses W. Johnson street, we ma}^ see the Church and Parochial School of the Holy Redeemer Society. At W. Oilman street No. 250, over Sumner's drug store, we read the sign " Wisconsin Academy." This well-equipped and thorough private school prepares pupils of both sexes for the University. Students come here from all over the state and the northwest. Miss Charlotte Richmond is prin- cipal. We leave the car at the Lower Campus, a level field used for athletics and military drill. Two minutes' walk takes us to the Armory and Gymnasium, standing on the lake shore. It is built in the Norman style, of red brick. Put up in 1894, ^^ ^^^^ $130,000. Dimensions, 200 by 100 feet. On the ground floor are a swimming tank, 20 by 80 feet, baths, lockers, bowling alley and gun room; offices of the Athletic Director and Commander of the University regiment. The latter person, Charles A. Curtis, is a colonel in the United States army. All fresh- men and sophomore male students are required to take military drill. On the second floor are the trophy room and the gymnasium, which is frequently used as an audi- torium — the largest in the city. A baseball cage and running track are on the third floor. Behind the armory are the rowing tank used by the U. W. crew and the University boat house. The new building of the University Young Men's Christian Association stands near the armory on the west. It represents an expense of $50,000, and contains, dining room, halls, class rooms and students' rooms. XJ '^ ^ TOUR NUMBER TWO. 3I The State Historical Library is Madison's finest edifice. Built in the Renaissance-Ionic style, of Bedford limestone, in 1900, and costing $620,000, it is a source of pride to all citizens of Wisconsin. The pure lines, the deep-set windows and doors, the massive yet graceful columns of the loggia, hold and please the eye. Administered by the State Historical society, the building houses two distinct libraries: that of the State Historical society and the library of the University. When the northwest wing is added the total capacity will be six hundred and forty thousand volumes. It is fitted with steam heat, electric light, elevator and steel shelves. Chief features: first floor, the corridor with its mosaic pavement and the departmental library rooms; second floor (elevator runs from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M.) contains the great reading room with chairs and tables for tw^o hundred and forty readers, and a specialized library of five thousand volumes. From the reading room one ma}' walk out on the loggia on the east front. Third floor has a lecture hall, seminary rooms and visit- ors' gallery, where the best view of the reading room is obtained. On the fourth floor are the interesting and valuable collections of the Wisconsin Historical society. The genial janitor will show the visitor the largest col- lection of prehistoric copper implements in America, por- traits of famous Indians and objects of Indian art, and relics of the early settlers and the Revolutionary and Civil wars, rare antique books from Europe, over 200 portraits of Wisconsin celebrities, and an art collection including the gifts of the late President of the Univer-^ sity, Charles Kendall Adams, and his wife. \2 THE CITY OF MADISON. The State Historical library is one of the half dozen great reference libraries in the United States. Harvard ■College and the New York State library alone exceed it in number of books on America. Only the Congressional library has a greater number of newspaper files, but in the early newspapers this library is superior. In gene- alogy it is only exceeded by the New England gene- alogical society. No other American library has so com- plete a set of magazines indexed in Poole. It is the larg- est and best equipped working library west of the Alle- ghanies. The home of the President of the University, Chas. R. Van Hise, is at No. 772 Langdon street, opposite the Historical library. The home of John B. Parkinson, Vice President of the University, is at No. 803 State street Having finished our inspection of the Historical library we cross Park street to the Upper Campus. The ar- rangement of the buildings is in two parallel lines. Univer- sity hall at the upper end and the smooth sloping lawn between. Walking north on Park street toward Lake Mendota we pass Science Hall in red brick. It was built in 1887. The lecture rooms and laboratories of the departments of physics, geology and medicine are in this building. Mineralogical and geological museums on the second and third floors are open to the public. North of Science hall, between it and the lake, is the Chemical Laboratory. Of light brick, built in 1885, it contains the lecture rooms, offices and laboratories of the chemical department. This department will soon TOUR NUMBER TWO. oo find a home in the hirge new Chemical Hall costing $100,000, which stands on the campus corner of Charter street and University avenue. The Machine Shops are behind the Chemical labora- tory. They were put up in 1885 and enlarged in 1894. The tall chimney overlooking the small heating plant shows us whence comes the heat for all the buildings on the eastern part of the campus, including the Armory and the Historical librar3^ The driveway passing between the heating plant and the machine shops takes us to a blufl'from which we get a good view of Mendota lake. Coming back to the foot of the upper Campus at Park street we ascend the hill. The building on the left in bufi^ stone with a clock tower, is the old Library Hall. It cost $35,000 and dates from 1878. Here is the audi- torium used for the weekl}^ convocations on Frida}- noon. The rooms of the University School of Music are in this building. (The school does a part of its work m the Kroncke block, corner W. Mifflin and N. Carroll streets.) Chadbourne Hall, named for Paul A. Chadbourne chancellor of the University, 1867-71, stands between Library hall and University avenue. Of light stone three stories high, it was built in 1871; enlarged in 1896; cost $130,000. This is the dormitory for young ladies, the only dormitory on the campus. Many students room in fraternity and sorority houses; most of them Hve in private houses. Chadbourne Hall has a gymnasium 71 by 40 feet, two stories high at the west end. Ninety young ladies room in the hall. 2A THE CITY OF MADISON. The Law School of dark brown stone is next above Library Hall. It cost $80,000, completed in 1893. Be- sides the lecture rooms and library of the College of Law, it contains the offices of the Board of Regents and of the University Architect. Directly across the campus from the Law building is the Engineering School, built of buff brick at a cost of $100,000, in 1900. It contains steam and electrical ma- chinery, laboratories, special library and reading room and auditorium, besides the offices of Dean and profes- sors of the school. North Hall is next above the engineering building ; its counterpart. South Hall, is opposite, above the Law school. They were the first buildings of the University, plain, box-like, stone structures, bare of ornament. They resemble the older dormitories of the eastern col- leges and, while giving the impression of age, remind us of conditions now outgrown. In 185 1 North Hall was built at a cost of $19,000. For four years this was the home of the University of Wisconsin ; here the students and professors lived and worked together. Board was eight}^ cents per week. The German department and the School of Pharmacy now occupy North Hall. In 1855 South Hall was built (cost $20,000); it is used by the department of Bacteriolog}^ Greek and Hebrew, and Commerce. University Hall, or Main Hall (as it is sometimes called), crowns the campus hill. It is in light stone, Ro- man-Doric style. The main part was built in 1859. It has TOUR NUMBER TWO. 35 been remodeled; the portico, south wing and dome have been added. Here are a hirge lecture hall, recitation rooms, ladies' rest room, and the offices of the President of the University, University Registrar and Dean of the College of Letters. From the roof of Main Hall we may get a Magnifi- ciENT View of the University grounds and buildings, the city, the lakes and outlying country. This view gives one the best idea of the great size of the university and the natural beauty of its location. See p. lo, " Bird's-Eye View of the City." We now walk west from Main Hall. The new Chem- ical Hall, in light brick, is below us on the left. As we go, we observe shrubbery and trees of many sorts. In a few moments we are at the Astronomer's House and Washburn Observatory. The Observatory is the gift (1878) of Hon. Cadwallader C. Washburn. It is equipped with a large modern telescope and other neces- sary instruments. Near by is a small Students' Observ- atory. As we linger a moment for the lovely view, we can but praise the selection of this site for the chief educa- tional institution of the state. The mind is enlarged not only by books and teachers, but by the beautiful in na- ture. Fortunate in both respects are the youths and maidens who pass here their years of training. Close by the Observatory on the southern slope of the hill is Agricui.tural Hall. It was built at a cost of $150,000 in 1903; material, light mottled brick with stone 36 THE CITY OF MADISON trimmings. A large auditorium (the best on the campus), lecture rooms, offices of the Dean and professors and a special library fill the building. Fifteen thousand dollars a year are given for the work of the agricultural depart- ment by the United States government. William A. Henry, Dean of the department, is a recognized author- ity on agriculture. Hiram Smith Hall, the dairy building, is a few hun- dred feet west of Agricultural Hall. It receives its name from a former well known dairyman and member of the Board of Regents. Cost $40,000; opened in 1893, and since enlaro'ed and cold storac^e rooms added. An in- teresting sight may be witnessed here in the morning. Farmers are unloading their milk wagons and reloading with the milk from which the cream has been separated. Inside the separators are at work, and the visitor may be initiated into the latest processes of butter and cheese making. The Babcock milk test for determining the quantity of cream in milk has been adopted all over the world. It was invented and freely given to the world by Prof. Stephen M. Babcock, chief chemist of the Ag- ricultural Experiment Station of the University of Wis- consin. Its value to the farmers of this state alone has been placed at millions of dollars. In 1903 the Wiscon- sin Legislature presented Prof. Babcock with a valuable bronze medal in recognition of his service. Horticultural Hall is a few steps north of the Dairy building; $43,000 were expended in its construc- tion in 1896. This group of buildings has its own heating plant. TOUR NUMBER TWO 37 To the west upon the level <^rounds are the barns of the University. The Horse barn is first, the Dairy barn farther to the west. Here the visitor may see some of the finest stock in America; the process of scientific feed- inr^ and care of cows w^ill be shown bv the intelli^rent and courteous attendants. Dean Wm. A. Henry's house stands by itself not far from Horticultural Hall. Camp Randall is the University athletic field, one- quarter of a mile southwest of the campus, easily recog- nized by the high board fence and grand stands. The lot contains forty-two acres; ten acres are enclosed. This ground was a military camp during the civdl war, where over 70,000 men were quartered at various times. The famous Iron Brigade, composed for the most part of Madison and Dane county men, were quartered here. In 1893 the state purchased it for the university, paying $25,000. The main grand stand seats 15,000; the new one 5,000. It is named for Alexander W. Randall, gov- ernor of the state 1858-1862. University Data: TheUniversity of Wisconsin com- prises two main divisions — the Department of Graduate Study and the Undergraduate Department. These in- clude the following colleges: The College of Letters and Science, Edwin A. Birge, Dean. It embraces the schools of Economics, History, Commerce, Education, Phar- macy, Music and the Washburn Observatory. The Col- lesfe of Encrineerinof, Frederick E. Turneaure, Dean, and the College of Agriculture, WiUiam A. Henry, Dean. Charles R. Van Hise Ph. D. L. L. D. is President of the University; elected in 1903. He has been connected 38 THE CITY OF MADISON. with the institution for twenty-two years, as student and teacher. Financial management rests in the Board of Regents,, eleven of whom are chosen from the congressional dis- tricts of the state and two from the state at large. The President of the University and the state Superintendent of Education are ex-otiicio members of the Board. The University has three sources of hnancial support: the income of federal grants, private gifts, and taxation,, the last being the chief source of revenue. By an act of the legislature of 1905 a tax of two-sevenths of a mill was laid on all the property in the state ; this will afford an income of over half a million dollars. The Grounds of the University comprise four hundred and fifty acres, extending along the shore of Mendota. for more than a mile. Twenty-nine buildings, fifteen of which are used for teaching, stand upon these grounds. The University was opened in 1850, the first class of two graduating in 1854. There were then four profes- sors and fifteen students. Today the faculty and admin- istrative force numbers two hundred and seventy-five and the total number of students is three thousand six hundred. In 1904 the University held an appropriate celebration of its jubilee year; representatives of nearly all the great Universities in the world were present;, President V^an Hise was inaugurated; four hundred and sixteen degrees were conferred on the graduates of the institution for that year; while many honorary degrees were conferred on men prominent in the world of learn- ing. TOUR NUMBER TWO. 39 This enormous expansion is due to the co-operation of the state high schools, whose graduates naturally come here to complete their education ; to the granting of free tuition for Wisconsin students; to the system of co-edu- cation (dating from 1869), whereby equal advantages are given in the University to both sexes; and to the wise policy of locating the schools of agriculture and engi- neering at the seat of the state University, instead of separating them as some of the w^estern states have done. Recocrnized throuo^hout the educational world for its high standards and thorough work; numbering on its faculty scientists, scholars and authors of international repute, among its graduates governors, congressmen and leaders in all walks of life; firmly rooted in the hearts of the people of the state — may this great and beneficent University endure so long as the skies bend above the hills of Wisconsin and her rivers run to the sea! Our tour of the Universit}- completed, we take another west-bound car on University avenue and ride past Uni- versity Heights, Wingra Park and West Lawn, to Forest Hill Cemetery. This section of the city is fil- ling rapidly with high-class homes. New buildings are seen on every side. The high ground, afi:brding a view of the city and lakes, the good drainage and excellent neigh- borhood, nearness to the University and the street cars, attract the home-seeker. Forest Hill cemetery is three miles west from the capitol. It was purchased in 1856 for $10,000. Two groups of graves are noteworthy, .Q THE CITY OF MADISON. one of Union soldiers, known as " Soldiers' Rest," and one of one hundred and thirty Confederate soldiers,, called " Confederates' Rest," who died while prisoners of war at Camp Randall. On May 30th every year memorial exercises are held in the grand stand. Both groups of graves are strewn with flowers and honored by a salute of guns. Calvary Cemetary (Roman Catholic) is directly op- posite Forest Hill Cemetary. It was opened in i860. Both inclosures are quiet and beautiful, with driveways and walks winding through the shrubbery and beneath the trees. Henry Vilas Park and the Lake Wingra Improvement. On our way back from the Cemetaries we may get off at Wingra Park and walk south toward Lake Wingra, where we see the work being done upon the Henry Vilas Park of sixty acres. This is the gilt of Hon. and Mrs. Wm. F. Vilas in memory of their son. (See page 9 for description of Lake Wingra improvements.) Along the nortn shore of Lake Wingra are the ex- tensive and lovely grounds of Edgewood Villa, the seat of Sacred Heart Academy. This was the former home of Cadwallader C. Washburn, Governor of Wisconsin in 1872-74. His gift of the Washburn Observatory to the University in 1878 w^as followed by a deed of this estate to the Dominican Sisters in 1881 for educational purposes. The School is for young ladies only. The largest oaks in this part of the state stand on these grounds close to the lake shore drive. TOUR NUMBER THREE. 41 At loio Grant street, Wingra Park, is the comfortable home of Henry C. Adams, Member of Congress from the Second district. Tour Number Three. Elmside and the Eastern Limits. The Street car takes us back over the route we have traced to our starting point at the head of Monona ave- nue. Keeping our seats in this car we run down King street on our w^ay to the E^astern Part of the City. Crossing the raih'oad tracks w^e see the East Madison depot of the Chicago, Milwaukee and St. Paul road and the depot of the Chicago & Northwestern road. The latter will soon be replaced by a much needed modern structure. Riding along Implement Row we observe the warehouses of the great Harvester Companies, from which a wide region is supplied with farm implements. We go through the sixth ward, of the city, tilled with homes, past the new Irving Grammar School and the Jacques Marquette Grammar School to the Yahara river. Upon the low ground to the left of the car line and west of the river are several large manufacturing plants; the Northern Electrical Company, The Gisholt Machine Compan}^ and the Fuller and Johnson Farm Implement Works. We observe the improvements made upon the Yahara; the stream has been straightened and deep- ened for the navigation between the lakes. The new cement bridge over which the electric cars pass, spans the stream in a single arch. 42 THE CITY OF MADISON. The Williamson street bridge, built in 1905. From the Yahara river our ride takes us along Win- nebago street, Atwood avenue and Milwaukee avenue, throuorh the suburbs of Elmside and Fair Oaks to the end of the line at the new car barns. Half a mile from the Yahara we pass the entrance to Lake Shore Park, a tract of several acres fitted up with a summer theatre, bowling alleys, lunch counter and other attractions of a hike shore resort. Its easy access by street cars attracts large numbers of people throughout the summer. At Elmside and the region about the car barns we see the signs of rapid and solid growth. Several new fac- ITOUR NUMBER FOUR. ^^ tories have recenth^ been erected, brino-ing here a class of industrious artizans and machinists who build the neat new homes going up all about this section. A large beet sugar factory is being erected here. Five years ago there was not a single factory in this part of Madi- son and but yery few houses. Thus the growth of the western end of the city is balanced by that at its eastern extremity. Tour Number Four. The W. Maix Street and E. Johxson Street Car Ride. Coming back to Capitol square oyer the same route, we change to the other electric line at the Park Hotel. This takes us down West Main street past the county buildings to the depot of the Illinois Central and the West Madison depot of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul railroad. Keeping our seats the car will return to Capitol square, go east on Mifflin street and down North Hamilton to a new section of the town. At the foot of S. Hamilton street is the tasteful new church of the Norwegian Lutheran Society, in red brick, put up in 1903, cost $13,000. We ride on E. Johnson street past the Madison Water Works. The plant is open to inspection. The water is remarkabl}^ pure, as shown by chemical analysis; it comes from ten artesian wells yar3^ing in depth from 100 feet to 735 feet, and is pumped by direct pressure to all parts of the city. Fifty-tw^o gallons for each person in the city, or 1,501,053 gallons, are supplied per day. The water system represents an outlay of $414,000. 44 THE CITY OF MADISON. Pursuing our tour we ride between the residences lin- ing the street, and turning south on Baldwin street reach the end of the line near the Gisholt machine shops. These and the other manufacturing plants may be in- spected by obtaining permission at the several offices. We return by the same route to Capitol square. We have now ridden some seventeen miles in the street cars. The whole distance can be covered at a cost of thirty- five cents per person, thus making these deHghtful jour- neys possible for all. Carriage Drives About the City. Tour Number Five. Raymer Drive, Owen Park, Greenbusii and S. Madison. Much of the cit}^ and its environs remains to be seen. We will take a carriage and drive up Wisconsin avenue. At the corner of the avenue and E. Gorham street is the home of Ex Senator Wm. F. Vilas, the statliest and most magnificent in the city. Turning west upon Langdon street we are in the finest residence district. These fine homes with lawns extending down to the lake are the pride of their owners. At No. 150 Langdon street is the home of U. S. Senator John C. Spooner. At the end of Langdon street we turn up the drive over the University campus; pass Main Hall and down to the sliore of the lake; from here we may drive five miles along the shore, through all manner of shrubs, flowering plants and trees to Mendota Beach at the western end of the lake. We are impressed by the pleasing variety of scenerv. Now we q;o throu^i^h an avenue of willows: TOUR NUMBER FIVE. 45 now we are on a hill with a wide stretchin^^ panorama of water and tields and woods; anon we are in a shaded woodland road with the branches interlocking above our heads. This carriage way known as the Raymer drive (opened in 1892) was built by the Madison Park and Pleasure Drive Ass'n. Lake Mendota is in full view Drive througii Universitj' grounds. most of the distance. Between the drive and the shore are many summer camps and cottages. Some of these may be rented and people come from long distances to enjoy here a few weeks of fishing, bathing and restful contact with nature. Near the end of Ra3'mer drive we may get a drink of cold pure water at Merrill Springs. 46 THE CITY OF MADISON. On the drive back to the city we turn south up a road leading to Eagle Heights. Fifteen minutes through thick set maple and oak woods brings us there. We stop where a vista of woodland, fields and water is bounded ^^^ igm ■1 ^^HI^^HHHHHH HHH^^HH View of Madison from l-^agle Heights, Lake Mendota intervening. by the distant city. As we ride around the circle to the drive way, we may see not 100 feet from where we stopped for our view a group of Indian mounds; one is a burial mound, like an inverted bowl. Its sides, yet smooth and symmetrical, show the care of its builders. To European visitors and others who have not seen them these undisturbed remains of Indian art are of especial interest. In returning to the city from Eagle Heights we are not limited to one road. We may ride south through the old stone quarry and come in upon the Middleton road which will take us to University avenue. But we may see more of the parks and drives b}^ con- tinuing our ride to the south, past the present stone quarry into Owen Park, one-lialf mile west of Forest Hill cemetery. Many will prefer this to all the other TOUR NUMBER FIVE. 47 parks of the city. Nothing has been done but lay out a driveway through the natural forest growth. From the blutl^ at the western edge of the park is a view for those who love rural scenery. The park receives its name from Prof. Edward T. Owen, who gave the land for the purpose. From Ow^en Park we drive toward the city past the cemeteries and University Heights along Regent street. Turning south on Warren street we skirt Wingra Park with Lake Wingra in view. Turning east along Drake street w^e pass through Greenbush, another flourishing suburb. The Madison General Hospital, a conspicuous building in red brick, is No. 925 Mound street. It is sur- rounded by extensive grounds artistically laid out, wdiich add materially to the general effect. Opened in 1903, it is already overcrowded by patients, who come from all parts of Dane county. A Nurses' Training School is soon to be established in connection with the Hospital. Thirty thousand dollars to erect the building and two thousand dollars per year to maintain it come from the voluntary contributions of the people. The Henry W. Longfellow Grammar school is just west of the hospital. At the corner of Mound and Park streets, one block east of the Hospital, is the synagogue of the Hebrew Congregation Agudas Arhem Anshi. The corner-stone was laid Sept. 3, 1905. A tw^enty minutes' drive south from the hospital brings us to South Madison, a suburb separated from the city by Monona bay. The same signs of prosperity. .^8 THE CITY OF MADISON. ^hown in new houses and well-kept lawns, meet us here as elsewhere. The " Madison Sanitarium, a branch of the Battle Creek Sanitarium of Battle Creek, Mich., was opened in South Madison in 1903. It is a large yellow- painted edifice of wood overlooking lake Monona and the city. Its fine situation, healthful air, the skill of its physicians and nurses, enables it to show a very high percentage of cures among its patients, who come from all sections of the country. Half a mile beyond the Sanitarium are the grounds of the Lakeside Assembly (see p. 59) and those of the Dane county fair. Back to the city the road skirts the beau- tiful Monona bay. We follow Oregon street to Park street; then east on W. Washington avenue to Bedford street where we turn south to W. Wilson street. At this point on the bay shore Brittingham Park, so named for Mr. Thomas Brittingham who gave $8000 for the purpose, is to be laid out. Twenty acres of the shore are to be parked, thus redeeming and beautifying a neglected section of the citv. Follow^ing Wilson street past the James C. Doty Grammar School (fourth ward), and on through a handsome residence district we reach Monona avenue and complete the drive. Tour Number Six. To Orton Park, Tenney Park and Mendota Asylum. For the drive in the eastern portion of the town we go ■on E. Wilson street to Implement Row, and follow Spaight street close to the lake with its miles of gleam- ing water on our right. As we enter Spaight street it TOUR NUMBER SIX. Ag skirts the bank of the lake for some distance with no liouses between the drive and the shore. A small park of one and one half acres will be laid out at this point and called appropriately Monona Lake Park. One block east we cross Brearly street. On the lake shore by!the w^estern end of this street formerly stood a large stone octagonal building three stories high. This was the cit}^ home of Governor L. J. Farw^ell, w4io built it in 1855. A few 3^ears afterwards it was sold to Mr. Samuel Marshall. During the Civil War it was enlarged and altered into a Hospital for Wounded Soldiers; after the w^ar it became a Soldiers' Orphans Home. About four years ago it was demolished. Orton Park, one block beyond Brearly street is a tree covered tract of three and one half acres. This space was the first regular cemetary in Madison opened about 1849. When Forest Hill cemetery was opened (1858) the bodies w^ere transferred to it, and Orton Park laid out. Prior to 1899 ^^ ^^^ ^^^ only public park owned b}' the city. The name is for Harlow S. Orton, Mayor of Mad- ison 1877-78. Pursuing our drive from Orton Park along Rutledge street and its fine lake shore estates we reach Williamson street and follow it to the Yahara river. Water street extends along its west bank and we may drive north upon it to E. Washington avenue then turn east across the bridge. Just east of the river at the point w^e see the pumping station and septic tanks of the City Sew- erage Disposal Plant. Seventeen thousand dollars were expended for the plant which is run at an annual cost O O ci w TOUR NUMBER SIX. 51 of $4,000. Eveiy day 600,000 gallons of sewerage are purified in a combination septic tank and filter beds of cinder. The efiluent produced by this process is ninety per cent, pure and is allowed to flow oft^ into Lake Mo- nona. The place is open to public inspection. One fourth of a mile east of the Sewerage Plant is a small neat building standing some distance back from the street. This is the Contagious Hospital. Here cases of small pox and other " catching " and dangerous diseases are isolated and given careful treatment. If time permits we may follow E. Washington avenue past the Nathaniel Hawthorne Grammar School to the city limits and beyond among the prosperous farmers of of Blooming Grove, the adjoining township. Returning to the Yahara we bend north along Water street to Tenney Park, named for Hon. Daniel K. Tenney, who has given over $10,000 for park purposes.. This is the most picturesque park in the city. It em- braces over thirty acres and presents a happy and artis- tic combination of lawn, shrubbery, forest and placid lagoon spanned by two graceful arched foot brgides. Its north end extends along lake Mendota several hun- dred feet. We may drive out on the observation point which has been built into the lake, and obtain a good view of the widespread water and encircling shores. University hill shows to good advantage from here. To aid navigation a concrete lock has been built at the Men- dota end of the Yahara. Boats and launches may be seen passing through at almost any hour in the boating season. A part^of the river has been made to flow b}^ The Yahara lock for passage between ^Mendota and Monona. No toll is asked. TOUR NUMBER SIX. 53 a separate channel in rippling falls to join the main stream beneath the Sherman avenue bridge. For a quarter of a mile in the direction of the city this avenue is bordered by huge willows meeting overhead like the arches of some vast cathedral. It is known as the " willow drive." Twelve thousand dollars have been expended upon Ten- ney park. Extensive operations are now being made by the Madison Park and Pleasure Drive Association for improving Yahara river. Water street will be macad- amized and the bank graded and sown. At E. Wash- ington avenue an arched bridge costing $8,000, the gift of Hon. Halle Steensland, will cross the river. The east bank will be laid out into lawn, with a carriage wa}^ along its entire length. The Yahara river improve- ments will cost some $34,000, of which the city gives $4,000; the rest has been contributed by citizens as a gift to landscape art. Fifty years ago this place was an untroubled wilder- ness. From the capitol to the mouth of the Yahara the only path was an Indian trail along the Mendota shore; wagons could not pass. The only bridge was a three- foot elm felled across the stream. Here the early settlers came to fish by lantern light. We may guess their amazement could they see the place to-day. We may now ride east one mile on Sherman avenue to the tracks of the Northwestern railroad. Truck and dairy farms Ime the way. On the left, not far from the bridge, is the extensive estate of Mr. Edward M. Fuller. At the railroad tracks we enter Farwell Drive and fol- low it for five miles to the State Asylum for the insane tA THE CITY OF MADISON. at Mendota. Farwell drive (opened in 1897) follows the eastern, as Raymer drive does the western, shore of Lake Mendota. On the left the broad water is always in view. On the right we pass the club house and grounds (fifty-eight acres) of the Maple Bluff Golf Club. The whole cost $10,000. The road then winds over Maple Bluff, a sandstone promontory one hun- dred feet above the lake. Many fine summer cottages stand among the trees. We stop now and then to take in the splendid view. We remember that the builders of the first capitol quarried the stone from this bluft^ seventy- five years ago. Here in early spring the Indians gath- ered the maple sap from the trees and strained it through their blankets, as an early writer informs us. In due course we reach the grounds of the Hospital for the insane. This huge institution is one of two main- tained by the state: the other is at Oshkosh. Its lands comprise five hundred acres; around the buildings these are laid out in lawns, walks and beds of flowers; many fine trees abound. Some well-preserved Indian totem mounds between the buildings and the lake will repa}^ a visit. To build and maintain this Hospital the state of Wisconsin has paid over five millions of dollars. Five hundred inmates are cared for. Visitors are admitted on Tuesday afternoon, but the grounds are always ac- cessible. Everything is done for the health of the inmates. The water is pumped from artesian wells; a greenhouse pro- vides flowers; a large laundry insures cleanliness; a re- cent addition to the main building includes gymnasium, dining rooms, operating room and rooms for convales- THE GOVERNOR'S RESIDENCE. 55 cents. A lar![^e number of the patients recover and re- turn to their friends. The incurable cases are distributed among the county asylums for the hopelessly insane. Governor's Island juts into the lake from the south- west corner of the Asylum grounds. Our road may be followed around the island, which has been platted for a public park by the Madison Park and Pleasure Drive Association. Rocky Roost is a tiny islet near the north shore of Governor's island. A summer camp covers it almost entirely, suggesting some huge bird sitting upon its nest. We have not 3'et reached the limit of our drive. The carriage-way follows the shore for another half mile to Farwell Point, named after L. J. Farwell, a former citizen of Madison and Governor of the state (1852-4). A slicrht excavation here marks the site of Governor Farwell's summer home. If our horse is a good traveler we may drive back to Tenney park over the same route in about half an hour. We now ride throuo-h the "willow drive-" followino- Sher- ry ' o man avenue to E. Gorham street. We rather env^y the fortunate folks who live in these lake shore homes. The wide piazzas at the back, the boat house on the shore, the fishing gear drying in the sun, show that they un- derstand how "to drive dull care away." The Abraham Lincoln Grammar School, Second ward, is at 712 E. Gorham street. At Butler street we turn north one block to E. Gil- man street. The Governor's Residence, A large house of Madison sandstone,is No. 130 E. Gilman street. The house was built by Mrs. Julius T. White, in (u "1 TRIPS BY WATER. 57 1854. Later it was owned and occupied by the family of Mr. J. T. Thorpe. Here, on September 6, 1870, the fa- mous violinist, Ole Bull, was married to Sarah Thorpe. She was twenty years old; the groom was sixty. A union of May and December. The large reception parlor at the east end of the building was the music room of the great violinist, who lived here much of the time he was in America. In 1882 Governor Jeremiah Rusk purchased the property and lived here during his term of office. The state then paid Mr. Rusk $20,000 for the estate, enlarged and repaired it and it has since served its present purpose. The democratic manners of our Governors make a visit to the house easy and pleasant to all. We complete our ride through the east section of Madison and its environs by driving down Wisconsin avenue to Capitol Square. Much of what we have seen upon these tours can be easily reached by walking. The city is compact. The University is but one mile west of the Capitol, and the Yahara river but one mile and a quarter east. To those who have the time and strength these distances are tri- fling, and they will prefer to see the city on foot and at leisure. To the lovers of walking a trip to Maple Bluftor Mendota Asylum; to Eagle Heights or Wingra Lake, is the best of exercise. Many pedestrians circle lake Mo- nona, twelve miles; and some boast of having made the twenty-five miles around Mendota in a day. Trips by Water. Boats may be hired on Monona, near the East Madi- son depot of the Chicago, Milwaukee & St. Paul R. R., 58 THE CITY OF MADISON. on Mendota at the University boat house, at the City Boat house foot of N. Carroll street, and at Bernard's Boat Livery, No. 624 E. Gorham street. One may row at will up and down the shores; or pass from one lake to the other through the Yahara river and lock. On Men- Picnic Point from Observatory Hill. The summer sleeps along the land; The dreaming waters sigh upon the shore, And mirror in their opalescent depths The fronded branches bending gently o'er. dota a favorite ride is to Picnic Point, with its shady trees and fine sandy beach inviting one to lunch or bathe. Sail boats are private property and cannot be readily hired. Where they are to be rented may be learned from the boat liveries. Motor boats are for rent at several of the above mentioned places. Steamer and Launch Trips. In the summer of 1906 the waterway between lakes Wingra and Monona will be completed. Row boats, STEAMER AND LAUNCH TRIPS. 59 canoes and launches will then have uninterrupted navi- gation upon three lakes and connecting streams with a shore line of nearly twenty-live miles. Nor is this all: the Yahara river ma}^ be followed southward to lakes Kegonsa and Waubesa, and canoe parties often paddle on the Rock river and thence to the Mississippi. It is possible to start from lake Mendota and voyage to New Orleans without leaving the water. At Angleworm station, foot of S. Carroll street are the dock and steamers of the Askew Brothers. These boats make frequent trips across and around Monona. For a trifling fare one may ride to the grounds of the Lake- side Assembly, a branch of the National Chatauqua, at the western end of Monona. Here are many cottages, and during the assembly, which meets in July of each year, scores of tents dot the place. An interesting feature is a circular auditorium seating 5000, built without a single post to obstruct the view. Esther Beach is a summer resort on the southwest shore of Monona lake. The Askew steamers make frequent trips. This beach is a popular place for large and small picnics. A dancing hall, lunch pavillion, swings, benches and row boats are at the disposal of its patrons. Scores of conventions meet in Madison during the summer, and almost invariably they take a trip around Monona in one of the steamers. They either hire a band, or take a graphaphone or indulge in choral songs — the music coming back over the water with softened and pleasing melody. On Lake Mendota the steamer Wisconsin makes reg- 6o THE CITY OF MADISON. ular daily trips. For a small fare one may enjoy a fif- teen mile ride past Picnic Point, Eagle Heights and Black Hawk's cave (a small cave where Black Hawk is said to have hidden — there is no historical ground for the story), thence across to Fox Blufi^ and the north shore; from there to Governor's Island and the State Maple LJluir. Sometimes Mendota murmurs round its base; Anon, it smiteth angrily and rough. With crested billow, like a giant's niace The ribbed sides of xMaple Bluff. Hospital for the insane and back past Maple Bluff to the starting point at Bernard's Landing, No. 624 E. Gor- ham street. For these trips the steamer Wisconsin may be taken either at Bernard's landing, or at the Univer- sity boat house. The ride around Mendota by moon- light is especially recommended. The numerous cam- pers about the shore of Mendota reach their cottages and bring their supplies by this steamer. PARKS AND DRIVES. 6l The launch Putter 11. makes many trips per day from the City boat house, foot of N. Carroll street to the wharf of the Maple Bluff Golf Club. Campers and others de- siring to reach Maple Bluff may ride in this launch. We have described the principal buildings and points of interest in the city and its surroundings and the easi- est routes by which they may be visited. It remains to mention a few other things of importance. Fishing and Hunting. Madison lakes are celebrated far and wide for their excellent fishing. Pickerel are caught up to eighteen pounds in weight; the small mouthed black bass and the yellow bass weighing six and seven pounds are plen- tiful. White bass and perch are abundant and may be seen of a still evening rippling the water in schools. Fishing tackle and bait can be obtained at the boat liveries. Hunters have good sport with ducks, geese, mallard, quail and rabbits. Licenses to shoot must be taken at the office of the Secretary of State. The State Fish Hatchery Is located on the Fitchburg road five miles southwest of Madison. The visitor may see large numbers of trout of various sizes; these are used to stock the streams and lakes in different parts of the state. Parks and Drives. Most of these have already been spoken of. A word concerning them as a whole: Within the city limits are nine parks either completed or planned for; these are Orton park, 3.6 acres; Tenney park, 33 acres; Yahara Willow \vaik: i)L'L\vcc W Drive and Lake Mendota, 'One impulse from a vernal wood May teach you more of man, Of moral, evil, and of good. Than all the sa^^es can." INTELLECTUAL LIFE. 63 River parkway, 12 acres; Henry Vilas park, 60 acres (these are either completed or nearly so), and Monona Lake park, 1.5 acres; Kendall park, 1.5 acres; Burr Jones field, 1.5 acres; East Washington Avenue park- w^ay, 10 acres; Brittingham park and additions, 27 acres (these are planned and will be soon completed). These make a total of 150 acres. To this w^e may add the land belonging to the state: the Capitol park, 14 acres, and the University grounds, 200 acres (within the city). Thus the grand total of parks, either completed or provided for, in Madison is 364 acres. Nor is this all, for there are 80 acres more of parks and pleasure drives outside the city, yet within easy reach. Most of this work has been paid for by private subscriptions. Including 1905 the amount given by Madison citizens for parks and drives is more than $150,000. We doubt if there is an- other city in the United States of similar size that can show a greater park acreage or a more generous public spirit. Libraries. Five large and valuable collections of books are ac- cessible to the public. The Madison Free Library has 18,000 titles; the State Law Library (second floor of the Capitol), 37,000 volumes; the State Historical Soci- ety's Library, 280,000; the University Library, 75,000 books and 25,000 pamphlets; and the collection of the Wisconsin Academy of Arts, Letters and Science, 5,000 volumes of reports and transactions of learned societies. Altogether these Ubraries have 250,000 books and 135,^ 000 pamphlets. €4 THE CITY OF MADISON. Intellectual Life. Under the heading " The Madison Schools " we stated that forty-five hundred pupils are in the public and pri- vate schools of the city. When we add the thirty-six hundred students who attend the University in the course of a year, we have eight thousand one hundred children and youths per year enrolled in the educational courses of Madison. They are under the instruction of some three hundred and fifty male and female teachers and professors. One-third, therefore, of the population are engaged in giving or acquiring knowledge. The intel- lectual atmosphere is pervasive and stimulating. The people attend the open lectures at the University, sup- port many literary clubs, draw thousands of books from the libraries and support the associations for civic im- provement. Moral Life. Madison is an orderly city. Disturbances of the peace are rare. Most of the prisoners who appear in the Munici- pal Court are non-residents. Grosser evils incident tolarge -cities are not found here. The student body is remark- ably w^ell governed and hard working. The churches are flourishing; the fraternal lodges are numerous and strong; the public Hospital cares for the indigent sick; the Benevolent Society, supported by all citizens, looks after the needy; a branch of the Society for the Pre- vention of Cruelty to Animals protects the rights of dumb creatures. Literary Madison. The city has an enviable share in the world of letters. Current literature is represented by three daily newspa- LITERARY MADISON. 6s pers, nine weekly, one semi-monthly, eight monthly and one quarterly newspapers and journals. These include some of the larger publications of the University. Lit- erature of a more permanent character appears in nu- merous school and college text-books, articles in the Atlantic Monthly and other high-grade magazines, sci- entific works, histories, etc. Hon. Burr W. Jones, a Madison lawyer, has written a valuable text-book on the law. Prof. Frederick Turner's name and writings are known to all students of American history. Prof. Joseph Jastrow's book " Fact and Fable in Psychology " has been widely read. President Van Hise's book on the " Distribution of Metals " is his juagnnm opts, and an authority in geological science. Prof. Paul H. Reinsch has published many articles and books on international politics. Prof. Richard T. Ely's " Socialism and Social Reform," " The Evolution of Industrial Society," and other numerous writings are known everywhere. Other widely-read authors upon the University faculty are Profs. Wm. Scott, of the School of Commerce; Vincent O'Shea, of the Department of Education, and Frank C. Sharp, of the Philosophical Department. A " History of the Roman People," by the late Prof. Wm. F. Allen, is used in man}^ schools and colleges. Books of the late John Butler Johnson, Dean of the Engineering School, have a large sale among engineers. Prof. Alexander Kerr has published a translation of Plato's Republic and others of the Greek classics. Reuben Gold Thwaites, Secretary of the State Historical Society, is a busy wielder of the pen. He has contributed largely to the published reports of the society and has edited those which have 56 THE CITY OF MADISON. appeared since taking his office. The massive "Jesuit Relations," in fifty-five volumes, were also edited by him. "The Story of the Thirteen Colonies," a standard text-book; Lives of "Father Marquette" and " Daniel Boone;" "Down Historic Wisconsin Waterways," and " The Storied Ohio," are some of his popular books. Dr. James Davie Butler is still living in Madison in his eighty-ninth year. His name is widely known in Wis- consin and elsewhere as traveller, lecturer and author. John Muir, whose name is immortaUzed in the " Muir Glacier," graduated from the University of Wisconsin in 1870. His book on "Oar National Parks" estab- lished his reputation as a scientist and man of letters. Col. Charles A. Curtis, military director at the univer- sity, has written several delightful stories of army life for young people. His son Warden Curtis, who inherits his father's tastes, writes books and contributes stories to the current magazines. Two Norwegian citizens de- serve notice : Mr. Rasmus B. Anderson, ex-United States minister to Denmark, has written "America Not Dis- covered by Columbus" and "Norse Mythology," the latter being very widely known and used. He is now editor of "Amerika," a Scandinavian newspaper. Prof. Julius Olsen, of the Scandinavian department of the Uni-^ versity, is a clear and authoritative writer on Norwegian themes, including a Norwegian Grammar and Reader. Chas. K. Lush, now Hving here, is the author of two recent novels, " The Autocrats " and " The Federal Judge." Nor must we omit from this list several Madison ART IN MADISON, 67 women. The poet-essayist Ella Wheeler Wilcox spent her girlhood and wrote her early works in Madison;. Mary Grant O'Sheridan, who wrote "Nature Songs for Little People;" Elizabeth R. Scidmore, traveler and au- thor; Mrs. Margaret Allen,who edited "Scott's Lay of the Last Minstrel," with interpretative notes; Mrs. Hannah Twitchell, author of "Beautiful Women in Art" and translator of French books; Mrs. A. W. Moore, musical and Hterary critic and leader of study classes, author of "Echoes from Mist Land," "For My Musical Friend," and other books — are all connected with Madison. Indeed, this list is so long that we cannot include them all. Yet it were hardly right to omit such names as that of the late Charles Kendall Adams, president of the Uni- versity, editor of Johnson's Encyclopedia, much of whose most soHd writing was done in Madison; ex-President John Bascom of the University, who wrote several books of substantial merit while here; Daniel S. Durrie and Lyman P. Draper, whose writings and collections on western history form the most valuable part of the ma- terial belonging to the Wisconsin Historical Society. Art in Madison. Portraiture has received most attention: portraits by Cogswell, Thomas Moran, Sargent and Sir Thomas Laurence are owned by private citizens. On the upper floor of the Historical Library is a se- lect and growing art collection of considerable value. Its nucleus is the gift of the late Charles Kendall Adams and his wife Mary Adams. President Adams' portrait 5 68 THE CITY OF MADISON. by Ford, a Canadian artist, and that of Mrs. Adams by Bonetti of Rome are noteworthy. Besides valuable paint- ings the^collection includes specimens of decorative art. Portraits of Wisconsin celebrities are in the gallery of the Historical Society, the University halls, the Supreme court and the Circuit court. Many of these are the w^ork of Mr. J. R. Stuart for thirty years a resident of Madison. Other local artists are Miss Mary Bunn who painted the portrait of the late Justice Newman for the Supreme court room; and Miss Leila Dow whose work in china is to be found in the best homes of the city. There are some good pieces of statuary in the city. The group in white marble in the capitol rotunda entitled the genius of Wisconsin is by Miss Mears, a Wisconsin girl. The bronze figure on the capital park near the eastern portico with the title Forward was modeled by a Madi- son lady, Miss Jean P. Miner. The Madison Art Association is doing much to in- crease the popular taste for art. It gives several exhi- bitions each year with interpretative lectures. Some choice etchings and reproductions of the Greek and Roman sculptures have been secured and placed in the art gallery of the Historical library through the Asso- ciation. Landscape architecture is shown in the work of the Madison Park and Pleasure Drive Association. Taste- ful and beautiful areas have been laid out which appeal to all classes. This work has reacted on the public taste; it is manifest in well kept lawns, shrubbery, vines and flowers about private homes and where possible about the public buildings. The recent architecture of MADISON AS A SUMMER RPLSORT. 69 the city also gives evidence of a growing care for beau- tiful structures. The new University buildings, the Free Library and proposed new High School are tasteful as well as useful. Madison as a Summer Resort. If one seeks lake scenery, boating, fishing and bath- ing, a fine open country with woodland for walking or driving, Madison is a good place to pass the summer. Camp Scene. The tents are pitched beneath the trees, Forgotten care and strife; We rest upon dame Nature's knees And Hve the ' simple life.' The climate is cool, with a few days of hot weather. The lake cottages are within easy reach of the markets and the mail. Canvas tents can be rented of the local 70 THE CITY OF MADISON. dealers tmd pitched almost anywhere on the lake shores outside the city. Furnished houses, flats, suites and single rooms in town are available for the summer visitor. Madison as a Convention City. Its well-known institutions and exceptional situation attract numerous gatherings from far and near. Scores of farmers, dairymen, professional, scientific, business and fraternal conventions meet here every year. They often come while the legislature is in session and are addressed by the Governor, the President of the University and other leaders in public life. The Modern Woodman's convention has brought 10,000 visitors at one time. Madison as a Manufacturing City. The city directory gives the names of sixty-four man- ufactunng establishments, large and small, doing busi- ness in Madison. Some of these are huge enterprises employing hundreds of men — such as the Gisholt Ma- chine Compan}^ the Fuller & Johnson Company and the American Plow Works. The new Beet Sugar Factory will soon be added. The list of manufactures include farm implements, machinery, breweries, boat building, boots and shoes, carriages, cigars, collar pads, motors, gasoline engines, foundrys, hospital furniture, tele- phones and many others. Three great Railway lines in ei<>:ht divisions center here. The railroad haul is but eighty miles to Milwaukee and one hundred and thirty- nine to Chicago. The surrounding country is filled with prosperous farmers who purchase largely of the local MADISON AS A PERMANENT HOME. 71 manufacturers. The tobacco business is centering here. •Good farmers make $100 per acre from the tobacco crop, and several large warehouses have been built in the city. Madison as a Business City. The stores and shops are well stocked with up-to-date goods. On Capitol Square rents are necessarily high, but in other localities are moderate. Shops and markets are springing up in the suburbs, and there is room for more. The large official and professional class, with good and steady incomes, and the many artisans and inechanics make intelligent and liberal customers. Bills are promptly paid; the percentage of bad debts is small. Madison as a Permanent Home. ADISON is now the sixth largest city in Wisconsin. For the past five years the rate of increase in the pop- ulation has been more than one thou- sand per annum. This gain has been of a solid and substantial nature. Real estate has steadily increased in value. Hundreds of dw^elling houses have been built. Madison is a home city, there being over five thousand homes in the place. The water supply is perfectly pure; the death rate but 8.5 per thousand; annual rain fall 31 inches. The yearly aggregate of bank deposits is $5,100,000; postal receipts over $98,000 for the year past. There are 3,100 tele- phones in use on two systems. Five hundred commer- cial houses are doing business in Madison. Gas, electric 72 THE CITY OF MADISON. lights, water and sewerage are at the service of all house- holders; thirty miles of streets are macadamized. To these advantages and conveniences are added the solid benefits of the Capital, the Supreme Court and the circuit court; the unsurpassed opportunities for education, in five libraries with over 250,000 books, the public and private schools and the great University; the natural at- tractions of the lakes (fifteen square miles of water on one side and five on the other); the three hundred acres of park area and fourteen miles of macadamized drive- ways along the lake shores. To the manufacturer seeking a location with good transportation facilities and where labor troubles are un- known; to the man with a small capital to invest in busi- ness, or to him who wishes a modern training for his chil- dren and a stimulating atmospiiere for himself and family, the city offers a cordial welcome. Welcome, too, is the ar- tisan and workingman. By honest work and frugal liv- ing he may gain a home of his own as so many of his fellows have done. All who come to share the life and cooperate in the work of our city will be generously re- ceived. And they, too, like all the rest of us, will never regret the day they came to dwell in the fair city of the lakes. " But look you now — Monona smiles as ever She gloried in the mirror'd kiss of heaven : Nor less the undulating carpet green Of the lair woodlands spread before their Queen, In emerald beauty, — wooded lakes unite To glad the heart and put dull care to flight." — From '•'• Plea of the Seasous,^^ ivritten in i8yj for the Madison In- stitute by Kate M. Bailey. ERRATA. P. 28. Cars for the University and Western limits pass the Capitol Park on Pinckney and Mifflin Streets. Cars for 6th Ward and Eastern limits go on Carroll and Main Streets. P. 4S. Cars on the West Main Street and East Johnson Street line, west bonnd, pass the Capitol on Mifflin and Carroll; east bound on Main and Pinckney. P. 51. Annual cost of sewerage disposal plant 16,000. P. 59. Shore line of Mendota, Monona and Wingra, with connecting waterway, 42 miles. ADVURTISfLMENTS Savings Loan & Trust Co. MADISON. WISCONSIN Capital _ _ _ _ $100,000 Assets Over - - $1,000,000 Issues Coupon Debenture Bonds Bearing: 4 Per Cent Funds received in sums of Five Dollars and upwards This company is auih rized to aut as Trustee, Administrator, Guardian, Receiver, etc. HflLLE STBENSLflND, Pres. and Treas. N. B. VAN SLYKE, V. Fres. E. B. STEENSLflND, Secretanj CooK with Gas This is the home of Hollister's Rocky Mountain Tea The best household remedy extant Hollister Drug Company SOLE PROPRIETORS WM. D. FITCH Undertaker 123 West l^lain Street. M. S. KLAUBER CO. Cllotbing ana Turttisbing Goods Tine Cailoring 23 E. Main St., Madison, Wis. We Want Your Laundry Work We ask you to let us have it because we have the faciHties and experience that enables us to do the best work that will be satisfactory to you in every respect. ALFORD BROS., Both Phones 172 113=115 N. Carroll St. Carl Boelsing Tobacconist AND DEALER IN Smokers' Articles, French Brier & Meerschaum Pipes 126 state St., Madison, Wis. The Capital City 5anl( OF MADISON, >VIS. Cash Capital, - ,$50,000 Surplus and Profits. $150,000 DIRECTORS J. W. Tlobbins, Pres. and Cashier Carl A. Johnson, Vice-Pres. A. H. Hollister. Carl J. Hausmann, M. S. Klauber. Wm. J. Hobbins. Ass't Cash. ESTABLISHED 1877 Real Estate for sale in Dane and otlier counties, houses, lots, business blocks, fire insurance, surety bonds, money to loan, rents collected, taxes paid. All property shown free of charge. L. E. STEVENS REAL ESTATE BROKER 'Phone 249 Office opposite Park Hotel 'Phone 883 BURDICK & MURRAY CO. 17 and 19 E. Main Street, MADISON, WIS. KRONCKE BROS. The Live Hardware and House ...Furnishing Goods Dealers... Quality remains long after the price is forgotten BotH PHones Cor. Carroll and Mifflin Wm. F. Vilas. President Frank W Hoyt. V.-Pres. Joseph M. Boyd. C ishier BANK OF WISCONSIN MADISON, WIS. Capital Paid in - - $100,000 Surplus - - - - 50,000 Add. liability of stockholders 100, 000 Savings Department Safety Deposit Boxes for Kent at Reasonable Prices The Largest Book Store in the state BIG LINE OF Postal Cards, Wm and $oui^cnir$ of Itladison All the Latest Books College Book Store 412 STATE STREET OLSON & VEERHUSEN The "BIG" Store Clothiers, Furnishers and Tailors 7 and 9 N. PincKney St., Madison, Wis, WIM. PIPER GROCER SPECIALTIES Choice Teas and Coffees Heinz Pickles & Vine§:ar Holiday Canned Goods Ea§:le Brand Brick Cheese Our Stock is complete ^be iTair Madison's foremost economical supply center. Everything under one roof. Madison, - Wisconsin Wisconsin Music Company JOHN W. GROVES, Vice Pres. and Manager ^ flDaeon & ibainlin Pinc fortes Conover, Blasius & Sons, Cable, Kingsbury, Wellington Pianos ^ Mason & Hamlin and Chicago Cottage Organs Phones: Standard 240; Bell 3.->ll 20 North Carroll Street, Madison, Wisconsin Noah Perlmutter High Grade Tailor . . . Corner Main and Carroll, facing: south end of the Capitol opposite Park Hotel 7 West Main St. A. Haswell & Co, Good furniture Madison, Wis DEC 14 3905 F. A AVERBECK JEWELER AND OPTICIAN "27" Is the oldest, the largest — in fact the onlv Music Hou » Wisconsin that has not change . tirnn-name. ••27" W, Main Street. Established 1873 PIPER BROS. THE PLACE TO BUY Good Groceries 3 LARGE STORES Mifflin St.. PincKney St.. The MarK«t CARLOAD BUYERS It pftys to trade at Pipers. Jill Roads and outside of .U.uMron's limits lead to Che Popular eicfbcs ana %m Store When You Have a . l^ost. ^ Help "Wanted. Found. Positions AVarvted, For Sale. To ELxcKange. For Rent, or otHer "-want" AD Put it in Madison's Evening Paper THE WISCONSIN STATE JOURNAL THIS "AD" is intended for the eye of tliat person who has not been a customer at our stores. We want to impress the fact that ours are tlie Right Kind of Drug Stores. The Menges Pharmacies 28 W. Wiftlin St.. 829 Univ. Ave. A. E. Austin & Co. 13 S. PiacRney St.