^ ._- / "^^ -.'. ^.* -^^ % ' ^ aO - * • •0^ t ^o ,1-^"' • . °o ^'^.c.^' .\.^ *^^«' v .» "*./ .-.^^\ ''bv^ v^ .. a5°^ ,^^ > ^-> • JACQUARD MACHINES INSTRUCTION PAPER Prepared bv. H. William Nelson Head of Department o? Weavinu Lowell Textile School AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CORRESPONDENCE CHICAGO ILLINOIS U. S. A. ^^' Copyright 1909 by American Schooi< of Corkespondence Entered at Stationers' Hall, London All Rights Reserved c, A / JACQUARD MACHINES The term Jacqnard Weaving may be applied to all harness weaving that is above the range of harness shafts, so that a jac- qnard machine is simply a shedding motion whereby a large variety of sheds may be formed. The greater the number of lift- ing hooks contained in a machine, the greater will be the range of patterns that may be woven. Jucquard machines range from 100 to 2600 hooks. Since its introduction the Jacquard machine has undergone many changes in regard to the methods of operating the different parts of the machine, but the principles ]-emain the same. Jacquard machines niay be classed under four heads, as fol- lows: J^\'/'sf, Single Action Machines, meaning single cylinder machines; S('('o/i<7, Double-Lift Single (Cylinder Machines; tltlrd^ Double Action Machines, meaning double-lift and two cylinders; ?i,\\dif<>'U't'th, Rise and Fall Machines, which have a close-shed mo- tion. There are also special machines. When speaking of a jacquard, all the parts comprising the machine and the harnesses are included. These may be classified as follows: (^^) A-numl)er of wire hooks placed vertically in the frame of the machine. (^) A numl)er of wire needles placed horizontally between the wire hooks. (c) A number of f^priugs at one end of the needles. {d) Tail cords or neck bands attached to the bottom of the wire hooks. ((') Harness threads which are attached to a couj)ling that passes through the comber board. ( /") The coupling, which is usually composed of three or four parts as follows: A lingo, usually made of various weights of wire and which is at the extrejjie end of the coupling; a double thread, commonly JACQUARD MACHINES termed a hanger, which attaches the lingo to a mail eye; and the mail eye, through which the warp yarn is passed. When there are four parts, a don])le thread termed the mid- piece or sleeper is attached to the top of the eyelet and is then fixed to the harness threads mentioned at e. (-^ LJ V.J vJ w Fig. 4. Common Jacquard Hook. B pressing against the back portion of the hook caused a certain amount of spring. JACQUARD ]\IACHINES The rod B^ was to prevent the hook from swinging under the blades of the griffe when the latter was descending. The needles used with this hook had an elbow which pressed against the front of the hook as shown at C. What we shall term the ordinary shaped hook, but which formerly was much thicker, was next used. This is illustrated in '^ ^ rff\ r^ r^ ca U Cb. u (a ca 3 \j u Ch. ht hooks and eio;ht needles. It also means that there are four hundred harness threads to one repeat of the maximum pattern that can be woven by the ma- chine. Nearly all machines have a few extra liooks (from 11) to 26) which are often classed with the regular innnber of hooks, but are chiefly used for extra work, such as selvedge, extra har- nesses, etc. A pattern of less than four hundred to a repeat can be woven, by casting out some of the hooks. Referring to Fig. 10, B is the needle board or plate, through which the points of the needles E protrude three-eighths or one- half inch. is the griflfe which is comj)()sed of eight blades; II is the spring box, containing four hundred brass springs which are placed against the back or loop ends of the needles, one s])ring for each needle, (t is the grate through which the hooks F pass. Needle Plate. In some cases the needle plate is made of wood and in others it is made of metal, but the former is un- doubtedly the more economical from every standpoint. Particu- larly is this shown in the single cylinder machines where the cyl- inder travels at a faster rate of s])eed than a double cylinder ma- chine, consequently there is more movement and a larger amount of friction between the needle and needle board or plate, which results in rapidly wearing out the points of the needles if a metal plate is used. Worn needle points cause a large amount of trouble, for in single cylinder machines the cylinder has a tendency to half-turn when the lay is pushed back by hand, and when the cylinder returns to the needle points the corner of the cylinder presses against them and invariably bends a number of the points JACQUARD MACHINES 9 down on to the plate. This prevents some of the hooks which ought to be lifted from being lifted, and causes some hooks to be lifted which ought to be down. A composition of powdered black lead and French chalk was used to prevent the needle points from wearing out, but it was discarded because the dust was constantly dropping into the har- nesses and yarn, and also was very disagreeable for the weaver. -H-H- oooo oooo ogoo oooo OOQQ oooo oooo oooo Spring Box Fig. 10. Showing Arraugeraeut of Hooks, Needles, Etc. A needle board or plate for a 400-machine, has 416 holes, arranged in 52 rows with 8 holes in a row. The rows are divided by a groove into 26 rows on each side. There are also grooves at each end of the needle board. The grooves are for the lacings which hold tlie cards together. The lacing naturally makes the card occupy more space at the ends and center, because it passes along the upper and under sides of the card, and if there were no grooves in the needle board, the needles would have to be made longer so as to allow the points to protrude farther out from the needle board; or when the card 10 JACQUARD MACHINES was in contact with the needle points, the liooks would not be pressed back far enough to prevent them from being lifted. The grooves are also a great saving on the lacing of the cards, for if it came in close contact with the needle board every time the cylin- der was drawn in, the lacing would soon be cut, and this often causes the breakage of cards. The reason for the extra rows of needles, is to allow the sel- vedge to be worked by that row of hooks; also because a jacquard sometimes has patterns added that require additional harness at o o o o D D 3 "1 n '^ '^ J ^ . Fig. 11. Showing fjoops for .Springs. the front and back of the comber board, and the extra needles are used for the workinjx of the extra harness. A sirnng hox is seldom used on American machines to hold the springs that press back the needles, but where the spring box 13 dispensed with, a longer loop is made on the back end of the needle (see Fig. 11) and the s])ring is jilaced on the loop, with the cotter, which holds the needles. The spring box, however, is most certainly of value if it is made to fit squarely in the frame- work of the machine. The springs are kept cleaner and conse- quently will give good results; and if a spring should break, it can be replaced more readily in a spring box than if it were on the end of a needle. JACQUARD MACHINES 11 There is, however, one disaclvantaore in using the spring box, for when the hole, through which the bolt, Avhich holds the box in position, passes, has become worn, some of the needles will be pressing against the edge of the spring instead of the center, un- less care is taken in fixing on the box. This causes the needles to Stick in. the box, preventing the hooks from working as they ought to do. Fig. 12. Hooks Out of Perpendicular -with Needles. W/ien placing hool's and needles in a machine, one row of eight needles is placed in first; that is, the needles are passed through the bars that extend across the machine from side to side, and into the holes in the needle board. On the bars the loop of the needle rests, the bars keeping each 52 needles separate. The first needle is the one that has the half circle, through which the hook passes, nearest the needle board at the top (see Fig. 10), and the others are graded down until the eighth is placed in. This will be the bottom needle with tlie half circle nearest the spring box IT. When the cotter has been placed through the loop of the needles, the hooks are placed in among the needles. The first Look is pressed through the half circle of the needle and passes on the outside of the others, which keeps the hook in position. The second is placed through the half circle of the second needle, but 12 JACQUARD MACHINES passes on the outside of the first needle and on the outside of the lower needles. This rule is followed out until the eighth hook is placed in position. The grate through which the hooks pass is sometimes made with extra rows of holes, and is also made so that it can be moved around to help in the setting of the hooks. For this reason, it is best, after placing in one row of hooks, to notice if they are straight in the grate. If they are not straight, and cannot be made straight by moving the grate, tlie next row of holes must be used. If the hooks are not straight, even though they may work ^ /I 111 J U U L u u u Fig. 13. Hooks Out uf PerpenUiciilar wiih Needles. freely, the needles, hooks and grate will be worn out in a very short time. The hook that ])asses through the first needle is considered the first thread in the pattern, although when standing in front of a single action machine, it is the last thread. In a machine that has the needle board divided into twenty-six rows at one side of the middle, and twenty-five at the other side, tiie twenty-six rows are always at the left-hand side of the macliine, looking at the point of the needles. (So that the number end of the cards will be at the left hand side of the machine, looking at the top needle board.) JACQUARD MACHINES 13 When all the needles and hooks have been placed in the ma- chine, the frame in which the bars that support the top of the needle, are fixed, must be made perfectly straight with the needle board. If they are not straight with each other, there is endless trouble with the machine. In the first place, the loop of the needle presses down the spring when the needle is forced back by the card, instead of pressing the spring back straight in the box. This will cause the springs to wear out sooner and they will often stick, preventing the hooks from being lifted. In the second place, the needle points will not be straight in the needle board. This causes the hole in the board to be worn crooked, also, the dust and oil that get into the l)ack portion of the board has a greater tendency to bind the needles when they are not straicrht. The holes in the needle board at the back are coun- ter sunk, which allows the needles to be placed in more readily when the machine is being fixed up, or when a broken needle has to be replaced When the hooks and needles have been fixed, the grate, needle board and needle frame adjusted, the spring box is attached and every needle is tested and made to work freely. After this is done, the griffe is placed in the machine. It is absolutely necessary that the griffe be made to lift straight, and each blade or knife must be in exact position relative to the hooks, or there will be a number of the hooks either "crowned" or not lifted when they ought to be. The griffe is made so that each side can be moved either forward or backward, but it is sometimes necessary to bend one or two blades of the griffe so as to have them straio;ht with the hooks. Fio;s. 12, 13 and 14 show crooked hooks and needles. W/wii the griffe 'h nd^ the top of the blade ought to be just touchinor the hook. If the hook is pressing; too hard aorainst the o loo blade, either the needle point must extend farther out from the needle board, or the cylinder has to press hard against the needle board when the hooks have to be pressed off the griffe. Either case is detrimental to the nuichine. In the first instance, the cylinder requires to pass farther out from the needle board, to Fig. U. 14 JACQUARD MACHINES allow the cards to clear tlie needle points when the cylinder is be- ing turned, or there is a possibility of the edge of the card catch- ing on the needle points, preventing the cylinder from turning. Fig. 15. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Independent Batten Motion. and causing niisspicks. In the second instance, if the cylinder presses too hard against the needle board, the lacing is often cut, and the needles have a tendency to pierce the card where it is blank. JACQUARD MACHINES 15 Having set all the inner parts of the machine, the next in order is the tying on of the neck cords. Carelessness in the set- ting of the inner parts so far mentioned cannot afterwards be rec- tified, and means the loss of years of work from the machine be- sides havinn; endless trouble durino; the time it is workincr. The Outer Workings of the flachine. There are five distinct methods of operating the movable parts of the machine: J^'ir.st, top or overhead lever lift ajid independent batten or swing cylinder motion; second, overlw^d lever and spindle cylinder motion; ^//m/, overhead lever and independent slide cylinder motion; fourth, bottom or cradle lever lift, and independent spindle cylinder mo- tion; ^\\(\. flftl'i bottom or cradle lever lift and spindle cylinder motion. The first method is illustrated by Fig. 15. It consists of a lev^er at the top of the machine, or in some instances suspended from the beam that suj)ports the ceiling. The inner end of the lever is connected by a link to the crossbar of the griffe. This must be fixed exactly in the center of the crossbar so as to give a straight lift to the griffe. To the outer end of the lever, a long drivincf rod is attached. Tiie bottom end of the drivinor rod is placed on a stud attached to the hand wheel, which is fixed on the crank shaft of the boom when the machine is a sinole lift. The overhead lever is from thirty-six to forty inches long, according to the width of the loom. On the thirty-six inch lever the inner end, which is attached to the crossbar from the link to the sup- ])orting stud, fixed in the bracket attached to the framework of the machine, is about ten and one-half inches lono;, and the loncrer end, which is attached to the lifting rod, is twenty-four to twenty- five and two-thirds inches loner. The throw from the center of shaft to the stud fixed to the hand wheel is four inches. This gives an eight-inch stroke on the hand wheel. 10| X 8 ^ . ^ — —^.i — = 3 A inches Allowing for the fall of the griffe below the bend of the hook the movement will give about a three-inch shed in the harnesses. 16 JACQUARD MACHINES The batten or swing cylinder movement is shown in detail in Fig. 16. It is composed of five distinct parts as follows: («) Two small arms are fixed at the top of the machine, one at each side. Two pointed set screws with lock nuts are set in the arras and the batten or swing is suj)ported on these points. (i) The batten, which is in the form of a square iron frame. (r) Two cups set in the batten frame, which support the cylinder. The cups are made of iron or brass and are held in ])lace by a bolt with thumb screw on the outside of the frame of the batten. Set into the bottom of the batten frame and pressing m ii» M Pig. 16. Uetiiils of Batten or Swing C'yliiuler Motion. upwards against the cups, are two set screws whose ])urpose is to raise or lower the cylinder. (7' the mving of cards ^ a great deal depends upon the move- ment that is imparted to the cylinder. The less movement that can be given to the cylinder, the better; that is, of course, when obtaining the results required. The cylinder ought to be about one-quarter inch from the needle points when commencing to turn. Sometimes it is necessary to have the cylinder a little farther out, especially when the cards have been stored in a damp place and become warped so that they do not lie flat on the cylinder. In JACQUARD INIACHINES 19 this case, unless the cylinder is a little farther out from the needle ])oints when commencing to turn, the edge of the card will catch on the needle points. Tliis will throw the cards off the pegs and cause a pick-out. If the distance traveled by the cylinder is too short, it causes too sharp a turning of the cylinder, which has a tendency to jniuj) tiie cards from the pegs; and if the cylinder moves out too far, there is too much friction on the working parts, as the larger distance has to be traveled in the same space of time as the shorter distance. When setting the batten frame l)y either the set screws or the arms to which the set screws are attached, the principal point is that the cylinder must be flat against the needle board, both at the Fig. 20. .'^piudle Cy Under Motion. top and bottom of the board, and have the needle points as near the center of the holes in the cylinder as possible. It is particu- larly desirable that all points Ije squai-e and straight with the batten motion, because tlie l)atten, moving from a top connection, performs an arc movement, and if the cylinder does not lie flat against the needle board, some of the hooks will not be pressed •far enough off the griffe, or the points of the needles will come in contact with the sides or bottom of the holes in the cylinder and in that case, hooks will be down when they ought to be lifted. Fig, 18 shows the cylinder set crooked with the needle board. The set screw suj)port for the batten frame is a very objec- tional feature as will readily be seen, for the frame resting and working on two points is a great strain and some part of the 20 JACQUARD ISIACHINES screw soon becomes worn. This, of course, lowers the cylinder. When the cylinder is adjusted by turning tiie set screw, the frame is not only raised higher but is moved to the right or left, which throws the cylinder out of place, thus making double the amount of work to adjust it. The method of supporting a batten frame on an iron bar is by far the best, as by this arrangement, the cylinder can be di- rectly adjusted. The illustration given in Fig. 11), shows this method of supporting the cylinder. In the second method of operating tlie movaVde parts (see Fig. 20) the top motion remains the same as in the first, but the method of operating the cylinder is different. Fixed to each side of the square iron frame that supports the cylinder, is an iron si)indle, which glasses through two brackets which act as slides for the spindle and are fixed to the frame of the machine. Attached to this cylindei' s|>indle is a two-inch cranked slotted arm. At- tached to the spindle of the griffe is a small extention on which an iron roller is placed. This iron roller sets in the slot of the cranked arm; the slot arm being about seven inches long. The seven inches is divided into three parts, the top and lower por- tions being perpendicular, to allow a rest for the cylinder when it is out from the needle board, and also when it is in contact with the needle board. As the griffe is lifted, the roller j)assing up the slot of the cranked arm forces out the cylinder. The distance the cylinder is moved cannot be changed to any great extent, nei- ther can the time of the cylinder be changed, so that when a warped set of cards is being used, there is always the tendency for the cards to catch on the needle points. In the third movement (see Fig. 21), the top motion is the same as the first and second, but liie cylinder movement is dis- tinct. A flat, iron casting which acts as a slide, is placed on each side of the machine. These slides are supported by small iron rollers, which are placed in brackets fixed to the frame of the ma- chine. At the end of the slide, a brass cup for the cylinder and the spring hammer is fixed. A stud is attached to the slide. The rod connected to the clamp of the cam (or what is called the eccentric rod) extends upwards and is attached to an arm that is set-screwed on a shaft, but extends upwards. This movement is JACQUARD MACHINES 21 one of the best. The brackets that support the rollers are adjust- a])le but seldom in the life of a harness do they require adjustin|j^, for if the rollers are well oiled they last many years, l)ecause the friction is at the lowest possible point. In the fourth movement a square cradle lever is placed in brackets near the- feet of the machine, and connected to the top of the griflfe spindle by means of an arm attached to the end of the' cradle lever. This is shown in the (loul)le lift machine. Fig. 22. Fig. 21. Showing Overhead Lever Lift and Slide Cylinder Motion. There is an arm at each side of the machine that is connected to the cradle lever. To the outer end of the lever the long lifting rod is attached. The length of the square lever is generally twenty-eight inches from fulcrum to connection of long lifting rod, and ten inches on the shorter end. This gives about a four- inch lift to the griffe. The cylinder is driven by an independent spindle motion. An iron spindle is attached to the frame that supports the cylinder. The spindle passes through two slide brackets fixed to the sides of the machine. Between the two 22 JACQUARD I\L\CHINES brackets and set-screwed on the spindle is an extension with a stud attacbed to the top of it. On this stud, the connecting arm from the lever is placed. The lever is supported at the top of the same bracket that supports the square lifting lever. To the outer end of the lever the eccentric rod is attached, but instead of using a cam to give motion to the cylinder, one part of a double crank 'is used, the other portion is used for lifting the grilfe. The fifth method is the same as the fourtli with the excep- tion that the cylinder is operated by the slotted crank arm. same as in the second method. DOUBLE LIFT AND SINGLE CYLINDER MACHINES The illustration. Fig. 22, shows a machine of this type. The same methods are used to operate this kind of machine as are used with the single action with this exception that there must be two liftino- levers, either overhead or cradle levers. The reason for using this kind of machine is to have an open shed motion, and to gain a little extra speed; but this naturally drives the cylinder faster, consequently there is a greater damage done to the cards unless great care is taken with them and additional appliances used to prevent them from jumping off the pegs. The needles and hooks used in this kind of machine are shown in Fig. 23. Each needle has two eyes or curves. The rea- son for two eyes is as follows: There is l)ut one cylinder and two griffes, one of which is de.;cending while the other is ascending. The cylinder has to pass in for every pick; that is, for each lift of the griffe, which necessitates the use of double the number of hooks; so that in a 400-machine, there are 800 hooks, without the extra ones. The top bend of every hook is turned in the- same direction, that is, toward the needle board. The hook that is used on this machine requires a deep bend at the top so as to have a firm grip on the griffe blade. This is necessitated by the method of controlling two hooks with one needle, for it sometimes happens that one hook is lifted while the other is pressed back by the cylinder, so that the same thread will not be lifted for the next pick. The bottom of the hook is made in the form of a capital let- ter V, The reason for this is that it saves a considerable amount JACQUARD MACHINES 23 of friction by allowing the bottom of the book that is lifted to move back a little as the '^partner" hook is being pressed by the needle. This shape of hook saves the grate thiongh which the bottom of the hook passes. Fig. 23 shows the position occupied by the hooks when one hook is lifted and the other hook (which passes through the same needle) is pressed off. The dotted lines show the original positions of the hooks. 24 JACQUARD MACHINES In addition to the added friction on the needles and hooks, it takes considerably more time to replace a worn needle than it does in machines where single needles are used, for a rod has to be temporarily inserted that will press to one side the two hooks around which the needle has to go, and it is often necessary to take out the hooks until the needle has been replaced, particularly Fig. 23. Needles and Hooks U.sed in Double Lift ;ind Single (Cylinder Machines. if the machine is an old one, or if deep blades are used in the griffe. DOUBLE ACTION MACHINE This means that there are two griffes and two cylinders. The same methods are used to operate the moving parts, as are used on the single action machines, but the lever and arms are used in a compound manner. This machine is undoubtedly the best, where large reproduction is aimed at, for it can be run 170 or 180 picks per minute. The illustration. Fig. 24, shows a double action machine. The shedding motion is obtained by means of a double crank Hxed on the end of the pick cam shaft, and to which the long lift- JACQUARD MACHINES 25 ing rods are attached. This is shown in Fig. 25. Cams have been used to take the place of the double crank, so as to allow a dwell for the shed while the shuttle is passing through. It is par- ticularly desirable in a broad loom to have the shed full open for a longer period in order to' give clearance for the shuttle, but the cam motion was proven to be somewhat detrimental, owinf to the quick rise and fall of the harnesses, which causes the lincroes to jump and to be constantly breaking off. The neck cords also were constantly breaking. The cam movement could be used success- fully with a Jacquard that had not many harness threads attached 26 JACQUARD MACHINES ^ (^ /] f^ to the neck cords, and had heavier lingoes fixed to the harnesses, but for general use, the double crank is best, as it gives a more even movement. There is also a short dwell while passing around the extended part of the crank. The time to set the craidc is to have it level, that is, the two extreme points horizontal, when the crank shaft is a little ahead of tlie bottom center, or to have the reed about lA inches from the cloth when the shed is level. ( )wing to the general for- mation of tlie double action machine, that is, the use of t\\ o hooks for one set of har- ness threads, there is a some- what uneven movement to the harnesses. When a griffe is descendinji; an hooks that are on the griife are to be lifted for the next shed, and tlie hooks are jiass- ing each other at the center of movement, the angle of the harness threads is changed, for as one hook is lifted from tlie to]) shed, the neck cold altaehcil to the hook that is at the bottom is slack. When this hook is raised for the next pick, at the point when all the slack cord is taken up, the uneven movement is caused, the harnesses swinging over into the'line with the lifting hook. The results from this movement are not so harmful if the jacquard is tied uj) proportionally and run at the right speed; but when the machine is run too fast and the lingoes are too light, also when the neck cord is too short, a large amount of trouble is caused. Instead of connecting the harnesses to the hooks, by means of two neck cords, one is used as shown in Fig. 20. The link answers Fig. 2G. Showing Counec- lion of Neck Cords to Hooks. the purpose for which it is intended, that is, to take away the slack JACQUARD MACHINES 27 neck cord. It also reduced the uneven movement. However, un- less the hooks are kept perfectly straight, the link will not work, and it is common for a hook to be bent a little imderneath the grate. When one neck cord breaks on the ordinary double action machine, the defect is not readily seen, because the harness cord will be lifted by the otlier hook, unless it is a pattern where that particular hook from which the cord has broken is lifted very often. When the link is used, all the harness threads that are WW MM \/ \/ \/ \7 \/ \/ B K \7 mm mm mm mm mm mm Fig. 27. Arrangement of Needles and Hooks iu Double Action Machine. attached to the link will fall, owing to the use of only one neck cord; this also occurs on the sintrle action machine. Needles. The illustration Fig. 27 shows the arrangement of needles in a double action machine. The first needle at the top marked A, controls the hook B, passing down in regular order until the bottom needle in the right hand needle board, marked C, controls the hook D. The first needle in the left hand or bottom needle board, marked E, controls the hook F, which is the partner to I), that is, F and D control the same harness threads, as will be noticed by the connection at the bottom G. The eighth needle iu 28 JACQUARD MACHINES the bottom needle board, marked IT, controls tbe hook Iv, which is the partner hook to B. The bottom se.t of needles is exactly like the top set. They are placed in the same relative position, but work from the opposite direction. There being two cylinders on this type of machine, one passes in as the other is going out. Both cylinders turn toward the machine as indicated by the arrows, and a glance at the two cards A and B with holes marked 1 and 2, and needles nuirked the same will show the two hooks F and D control the same harness threads. It will be noticed that one hook has the top bend bent back- ward, while the other bends forwaixl in the same direction as the Fig. 28. SliowhiK I^evers, Supports aud Studs. lower bend of the hook. The reason for this latter is that it would require more space in the grate and the needles would have to be longer, which would make a broader machine if the same shape of hook were used: so that by the use of these hooks, considerable space is gained. When cuttiiitr cards for a double action machine, each card is cut from the design singly, just the same as if cutting cards for a single action machine. After the cards are cut, they are divided, the odd numbers from the even numbers, so that when laced they form, as it were, two sets of cards, one set being placed at one side of the machine and the other set at the other side of the machine. A double action machine is composed of double the number of working parts that are on a single action machine, but they are JACQUARD MACHINES 20 placed so as to work in different directions, With the exception that with an independent cylinder motion only one eccentric rod is used, and the eccentric is placed on the pick cam shaft. But if the cylinders are operated by a spindle motion, a slotted crank arm is attached to the lifting rod of each grifFe and the cylinder is moved out as the griffe to which it is attached is raised, one cylin- der moving out from contact with the needle board as the gritt'e, that comes in contact with the hook controlled by the needles of Fig. 29. Rack Method of Lifting Griffe. that board, is raised, at tlie same time the other cylinder is passing in towards the needle board while the second griffe is descending. When usincr the cradle lever on a double action machine, it is necessary to have two different sizes of lifting cranks to allow ex- tra lift for the difference in lenorth of the levers, owino; to one of the levers workinu; on tlie inside of the other. The leno;th of levers used is about 30 inches for the lontjer end, from fulcrum to connection of lifting rod, and 18 inches for the shortest end on the longer lever. Fulcrum to connection of liftintr arm on the shorter lever is 25 inches, and 10 inches on the shorter end. The double 30 JACQUARD MACHINES crank is made so that the one with the 12-inch stroke is attached to the shorter lever, and the 10-inch stroke operates the longer lever. The cradle lever lift is used only on machines that have the harnesses attached to them by the cross tie system, because by the straight tie system the machine is turned in the opposite direction; that is, one set of cards would be over the cloth in the loom, and the other set over the warp; and in the cross tie sys- tem the cards are over the sides of the loom or over shuttle boxes. The to]) lever lift is considered by many to be the best method of operating the griffes, and this method can be used whether the harnesses are attached by the straight tie or the cross tie system. All that is required to be changed is that where as in the straiixht tie both the levers aw on the same stud, and fixed to one supjiurt, the levers for the cross tie are placed on separate studs with sepa- rate sup])orts. The reason for using separate supports and studs is to meet the different positions of the griffe bar, (See Fig. 28.) B ^i) E2^ ^ Fig. 30. Pulley and Belt for Lifting Griffe. Other liftinii methods have been successfully tried on double action machines; one being a rack movement shown in Fig. 2'J and another a pulley and belt lift shown in Fig. 30. The rack movement is as follows: A lA-inch iron shaft is supported in bearings lixed to the top of the machine. This shaft extends over the end of the machine. The supports are bolted to the cross rail of the griffe, and on these Bupj)orts the racks are fixed. The shaft passes between the two racks, and the gear is fixed on the shaft in contact with the rack. An arm is set-screwed on the outer end of the shaft, and to this arm a long lifting rod is attached. The bottom of the rod is placed on a stud attached to the face of a round ii*on plate that is set-screwed on the pick cam shaft. JACQUARD MACHINES 31 In Fig, 30 the pulley A is supported on a shaft in the same position as the gear for the rack motion, and to the pulley a strip of ])elting B is attached, each end being fixed to the cross rail of the griflPe at G. The belt motion is a simple arrangement, but the griffe must act freely and perfectly straight or the griife will not descend low enough to allow the hooks to be pressed off by the cylinder. JACQUARD MACHINES THE RISE AND FALL OR CLOSE SHED MACHINE The illustration, Fig. 31, shows a machine of this type. Its purpose is to have all the harnesses level at the center movement. The same working parts are used on this machine as are used on the sinorle action, the distinctive difference being that cranked levers are attached to the usual lifting levers so that the grate through which the hooks pass can be raised and lowered, and so that the griffe is raised only half the usual distance. After the cylinder has pressed off the hooks that are not to be lifted, the grate descends with these hooks, and at the same time the griffe raises the hooks that are to be lifted. On some rise and fall machines, a batten cylinder motion is used, but is fixed in the opposite position from the usual batten motion; that is, the batten swings from the bottom instead of from the top of the machine, the set screws that hold it in posi- tion being placed in bi-ackets fixed near the feet of the machine. These machines cannot 1)0 run at a high speed, 180 being considered average, but faster speed is obtained when the pattern is equally balanced so that about the same number of ends are raised, as are falling. This style of machine is now extensively used for weavintr table cloths, silk iioods, etc. EXAMINATION PAPER JACQUARD MACHINES Read carefully: Place your name and firil address at the head of the paper. Any cheap, Ught paper like the sample previously sent you may be used. Do not crowd your work, but arrange it neatly and legibly. Do not copy the anstvers from the Instruction Paper; use your oivn words, so that we may be sure that you urulerstand the subject. 1. To what may the term "Jacciuard Weaving" be applied? 2. What are the classifications of Jacquard machines? 3. What are the chief features of the single-action machine? 4. In what industry is the single-action machine most exten- sively used? 5. What is the use of the extra row of needles in the single- action machine? 6. How many methods are there for operating the movable parts of a machine, and what are they? 7. What are tiie reasons for using "double-lift" and "single- cylinder" machines ? 8. Why tlo the needles of double-lift and single-cylinder ma- chines have two eyes? 9. Why does the hook on a double-lift and single-cylinder machine require a deep band at the top? 10. Why is the bottom of the hook made like the capital letter V? 11. l)escril)e in detail a doul)le-action machine. 12. Why are two different sizes of lifting cranks necessary in using a cradle lever on a double-action machine? 1.3. What is the "rack" movement? 14. Describe the rise-and-fall machine. 15. Describe fully the working of the Jaccjuard machine. 16. How are the cords handled in a Jacfjuard machine? After completing the work, add and sign the following statement: I hereby certify that the above work is entirely my own. (Signed) H !^ i^ ,1^ • 0^ /' ^* 4.V ^^ -y^ ^./ :'M£\ \.^^ .*aife'- %/ .'^&\ \<<^ .-^fe'-- \ -n^.Q^ -^^0^ %.*" ..^^\ o .f\^ - « • *'% '. %.** ^>^ . t • <> *'Tr 0^ ,*\ "^o^ ^^^•^ %.<^" .-^^X --^^^v** 4!*''' •^^ .t< . I. • . HECKMAN I BINDERY INC. \\ ^ JAN 90 c^^^i-^^^^o >\.j^:',^^. c^-.c;