TT 605 .S16 HljRlMllW *',:r Ml m lip. A '■ ti'-'li 'ril--',- LIBRARY OF CONGRESS ODODDanfiDOl J ^^^f &' SALISBUET'S dSrciit pantaloons ^w^m.^ DEVOTED TO THE /ESTHETICS OF %%mm ©mttlmi^* %m FULLY ILLUSTRATED, WITH COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE MOST APPROVED METHODS OF MAKING UP THE SAME. .r.^ Complete in Four ]?arts. PUBLISHED BY / W. S. h j3. Salisbury, Battle Creek, JJHchigatu BATTLE CREEK, MICH.: REVIEW & HERALD STEAM BOOK AND JOB PRINTING HOUSE. 1871. !A A V ^"^ Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, By W. S. & B. SALISBURY, In the OflSce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. ERRATA. The lieading, " Diagram II," under Part Second, page 22, does not belong tlierc. On page 28, in tlie right-hand column, and twenty-first line from the top, the term "reserved" should read "reversed," as spoken of in the following article. Under the heading, " The Limbs,', on page 52, Figure II referred to will be found on plate, page 23. f - / ^^-^ ^m *® Evi;ry sincere attempt to improve the resthetic of pantaloons' fitting is in itself commendable. On this fundamental fact the author rests his apology for obtruding the present work upon the notice of the tailoring profession. The author does not attempt a consecu- tive comment on any particular system, but gives his own views, practices, and im- provements; also selects indiscriminately from different authors upon the themes he desires to elucidate. The field is ample, and it is abundantly rich in subjects for descriptive examination. Whether he has succeeded in working out his own ideas or not, must be left for others to determine ; but if he has failed, it has not been through want of opportu- nity to study the originals, of which his illustrations are descriptive. As the whole work is supplied with a copious and carefully prepared table of contents, the attention of the reader is particularly directed to it, as it will greatly facilitate reference to those parts of the work where the various subjects treated of are to be found. The illustrated diagrams and figures have been prepared with much care, and beautifully executed, which adds greatly, not only to the interest, but also to the real value, of the work. The engravings are admirably calculated to convey to the mind of the student a clear conception of the principles unfolded. Part first comprises the author's own re- searches and practice, and in it he lays claims to new principles, in both measur- ing and drafting, which are fully set forth in the illustrations and descriptions. While he was preparing his work for the press, he received the bound volumes, 3, 4, & 5, of the Tailor tj- Cutter, which have proved of great value, as the copious selections from their pages will show to the reader. The author considers them of inestimable value as witnesses of reliable authority to vindicate and more completely carry out his views, on the changes wrought by principle, which he supposed were en- tirely new to the trade until he received the said works. So far as he was con- cerned, he had wrought out the same prin- ciples set forth, although in a somewhat different manner, and with some additional improvements. Still the author considers it a great privilege to here acknowledge the boon he is conferring upon the trade in this country, through the aid derived from the pages of the Tailor ^ Cutter, by reproducing their views in harmony with the author's. Part second, entire, is taken from the pages of the journal referred to. Part third is a reprint from the columns of late numbers of the Tailor <|- Cutter. Part fourth is "Belfast's" entire work on " Trousers and Pantaloons' Cutting," a work lately published in England, and of great merit. "Random Thoughts," on page fifty- nine, is taken from the Tailors' Intelli- gencer, written by correspondent A. P. N. The following article was left out through inadvertence, and the diagram 2, illustrat- Author's Preface. ing tbe principle under discussion, is found on plate at page 56, also the balance of article on page 58. DIAGRAM 2 ON PAGE 5G. The basis on which the "Front For- ward" system is founded, can be clearly seen by examining this diagram. The ob- ject in view, and sought to be accom- plished by the introduction of the changes and their embodiment in a system, was to produce a better fitting garment. The immediate defects which a change in the location of the front is intended to obvi- ate are, the removal of the superfluity of material which invariably accumulates about the fork, particularly when sitting ; shorten the front length, and in propor- tion throw more cloth on the seat, or more properly, to make what was superfluous in front of fork available as additional ease for sitting and walking, by being passed to the behind. Two ways suggested themselves for the production of the same effect : taking out a large, wedge-like piece across the front, as from 1 to 2, or to insert one at the side, as shown by 3, 4, D. In the first place, draw the outline of a plain pair of trousers, making A, B, according to leg- seam measure ; A, E, half an inch more than half seat, which will determine the smallest part of the waist, making the rise as may be desired. Square the fork line by A, B ; mark at F half the seat, and at U two-thirds ; square up the front line from F, mark back toward the side, half the waist measure, and from B to C, half the width at bottom. The seat angle is found by intersecting the waist line at one inch and a half in from the front, through which draw a line from the point at D. For certain sizes this simple plan will produce a good fitting pair of trou- sers ; for others, particularly large sizes, they would be wretchedly defective, hav- ing the appearance of being too wide about the fork in front, and creases form- ing in various directions on the hind-part. These owe their origin to the legs being formed too wide apart or too open, which means that the leg-seam at C is too far in from the line D, L. The same idea may be conveyed by stating that the side-seam in E, B, is too short for the inside length in 0, C. The defects to which we have just alluded must only be considered as such, when examined from a critical point of view. For the sake of introducing a form of trousers, let us take that shown with the front line F, S, and suppose it to be at nine inches from A and E ; D at twelve inches from A, and C at eight and a half inches from B ; and the seat angle at one and a half inches from B. If these are considered as too " open " in the legs, how are they to be made closer ? We have already answered that there are two ways by which the same result may be obtained — advancing the front, or throwing the leg in at bottom by taking a piece off as from B to II — varying in quantity accord- ing to the size of the person who has to w^ear them. That a change in the location of the front will produce the "close" style of cut can be rarely proved by cut- ting a pattern in the fork line as from A to 1) ; leave the leg part stationary, then put in a piece about two inches wide, as shown from A to 3 ; the front S will be immediately thrown forward to 0. This is the effect produced ; and the only differ- ence existing between this system and the majority of others, is the close character in the legs being obtained from the body. Those who are obtuse to this truism in cutting, have only to let the top part or body of the trousers remain stationary, as A, b, S, and let 4 fall below to A to the same extent as 3 was raised, and they will find that the leg will fall to the position occupied by C, D, 4, L ; the front remain- ing at S ; the seat line also to remain at the same degree of bias, as marked in from S. Where the product of two meth- ods are identical, preference ought to be given to the simplest and most practicable ; this consideration led to the construction of the front forward system. TROUSERS— PANTALOONS. In this country we have almost laid aside the original word trousers, applying the term only to the loose garment of sail- ors or laborers, and using patitaloons in all other cases. The English adhere to the old term in respect equally to the dress of gentlemen and all others, making much less use than we do of the word pantaloons in this connection. — Webster's Diet. TABLE OF CONTEN"TS. PAES wtmu's, rAGE. Preface 3 IntroiUictory, Takingthe Measure, theFirstPreliminary Step — Remarks to be Entered upon the Measure Book — Facts that must be Met and Overcome — The Foot Is Found to Turu In and Out ward... 9 What we Use to Measure With (illustrated), — How to Take the Measure (illustrated), — A Measure of Great Importance (illustrated), — ■ How lo Take it (illustrated), — How to Apply It (illustrated), — The Seusitiveness of your Customers, 10 Anatomy of the Lg (illustrated), — One of the most Chnracterittic Features of the Muscular Apparatus Man — The Diminutive and souie- times Double Muscle — .\ctions of the Muscle of the Calf, Power, use of, 11 What Rotates the Tibia. Inward — Reasons why every Cutter Should Study Anatomy — What we Prove in our I'rincif)les of Drafting (illus- trated) 12 Positions of the Open and Close Leg (illustrated), — Why the Side-Band Is Seen to Turn Forward onto Foot (illustrated), — Reasons why Stretch- ing and Shrinking Will not Always Do, 13 How to Fit the Straight, Full, Muscular Limbs (illustrated), — The Figure Complete in Diagram D — The Front Forward Bal- ance Proved Correct for certain Forms — Not to be Used for all Shapes (illus- trated), — To Prevent the Disagreeable Swiiig- ing Off at Heel— To Draft the Rack part— A PACK. Pleasing Effect Produced (illustrated), 14 Draft for the Medium or Well Proportioned — The Difference between (he Outside and Inside Measure 15 Where to put the Extra Round for Corpulent Cut — Working from the Right Standpoint — The Differences Found in Corpulent Forms — Position of Standing a Powerful Effect on the Fit — Claesificaiion of the Different Shaped Men — We are not ahv.ays Allowed the Dicta- tion ofour Judgment 10 Facts and Forces Must be Overcome — A New Discovery in Measuring the Fork (illustrated), — Founded upon Principle -Proved Correct — A Great Feat Accomplished in Drafting,... 17 A Geometrical Problem (illusiraled), — A Ludy Advances an Idea — Corpulent Draft — from lier Husband's Measure — The Correct Way to Balance for the Corpulent Shape (illustraied), 18 Solution of a Practical Problem — Proveil that a Sm.all Waist Carries ihe Front more Forward than the Extreme Corpulent — The Old Way of Forming the Front for Corpulent Men Shown To Be Wrong — How to Prevent a Lapful of Goods when Sitting — To Cut from Striped Goods and Prevent the Stripe Running Ob- liquely from Knee to Heel at the Back of Leg (dlustrated), 19 To Press and Shape the Leg (illu-straled), — Ran- dom Thoughts on Pantaloons Fitting 20 Preventive of the Frightful Distortion Com- plained Of 21 Table of Contents. FAM^ e®^@M®.- Creeches and Gaiters, "The Measures For" (il- lustrated), — Breeches-Making a Lost Art, 22 The Houses Who Have Attained Celebrity as Breeches Makers — The Fundamental Princi- ples of Trousers and Breeches Cutting — Anat- omy of the Leg Reviewed (illustrated) 23 How the Reiil Secret of Trousers Cutting was Revealed to a Knowing One — What we see Worn on the Streets and Fashionable Prom- enades — Antidote for Some of the Most Glar- ing and Troublesome Defects (illustrated),... 24 Why Trousers Will Rest Firmer on the Hips and Keep Closer to the Abdomen (illustrated), — Why the Pressure Is First Felt at the Knees, Seat, and Top of Front in Sitting (illustrated), A Hollow Seat Contracts the Length in Two Ways — Ease in Sitting and Striding (illus- trated), — How to Avoid the Bulging at the Kuee and (he Rising Up from the Bottom, 25 Figures 1 and 2 Illustrating the Sitting, Walk- ing. Running, and Riding Positions — " For- ward Front " System Meets the Wants — De- fects Cannot Exist Without a Cause — An Ad- mirable Fit when Standing, wlien Sitting an Alarming Creeping Up — Why is it? the Cure (illustrated), 20 Experienced Cutters Have Formed an Attach- ment for — Cutters Are too Exclusive — " Other Men's Stuff." — .\11 Are Invited to Criticize " Forward Front System !" — Animated Con- troversies Arise from Simple Questions,"... 27 Science of Cutting '■ Thirty Years ago " — Thumb Rule — Why Trigonometry Should Be Applied to Trousers Cutting — Answer to a Correspond- ent, 28 The Use made of the Reversed Measure (illustra- ted) — Practitioners Differ as to Hight of Seat —"A Guide, " 29 Customers' Complaints — Brace Buttons Wrong — A System supposed to Be Drawn from the Front to the Inside of Leg Seam (illustrated), 30 M. Compaign, " the Originator " — Mr. Oliver's Work Criticized — The "Peg Top Styla(illus- trated), — Several Cutters holding First-class Positions — \\\ Right when walking on a Level, when walking up Stairs, Pressure at Knee, Seat, and Front of Thigh" (illustrated), 31 They Rise from the Foot when Seated — The Sub- ject One of vital Importance — " A Reader from the First, 32 A clean fitting Underside (illustrated), — " Many" Corpulent Figures — A true Knowledge of the Principles or Basis, 33 iorming the Garment — Observations, Compari- sons — A Line of Demarkation — "A Fallacy" (illustrated), — Contracting or enlarging at the Fork (illustrated), 31 Unnatural Position — "Feet wide Apart" (illus- trated), — The Influence of one Part over An- other (illustrated). — What the Spheroidical Protuberance Requires (illustrated), 35 A defective Knowledge — The Legs close together or wide Apart (illustrated), — The Use of the " rouhtte" (illustrated), — Figure 1 "Illus- trates" the Requirements of disproportion- ate Conformations in Me Corpulent Forms, 30 Is the Hollow Scat better than a Round One ? — " Discussed " — Principle (illustrated), — Dia- gram 2 — A Variety of " Illustrations," 38 Now Comes the Crisis — Dots a Largc-waisted Man Require a Larger Fork ? — A Knotty Point for Theorists to Discuss — Diagram 3 — Anoth- er Method of illustrating the Idea Embodied, 39 Deviations Illustrated by Diagram 4 — Faith of Cutters in Check or Proof Measure (illustra- ted), — A Growing' Tendency on Part of the Trade 40 Systems Taught by Tramping Teachers — A Cor- respondent's Theory Discussed (illustrated), — Experience the only Safe Monitor, 41 How Can Old Systems, with the Bottom of the Side'Seam Stationary, be Valuable — (illus- trated), — Experimenting with the Close and Open Style (illustrated), — Introduction of " Front Forward System " (illustrated) 42 Many Hints from Old Garments (illustrated). Table of Contents. i Front Forward System applied to Close-fitting (illuslrated), — Influence of the Under Side with the Upper (illustrated), 43 Attention Called to Trincipal Points — Large Thigh and Calves — How to Shape — A Sure Cure for the Catch or Pull on the Calf of the Leg, 44 What Appears to us one of the Most Important Branches — Unsightly Creases Seen — The Rem- edy, 45 The Garment above all Others — Wearing Braces a Cause of Hindrance in the Development of our Art, 46 A Blunder in English Trousers — The Love of Systems, 47 "Form," "Patchwork," "Chinese Puzzle," 48 " Discovery of Error " — " Searching Investiga- tion " — Parisian Trousers — "One Point of Ug- liness" — "Fits Clean," 49 Rich Silk and Fine Linen Used — Coming Events Cast their Shadows — " Plumb, or Central, Line " — Can a Simple, Unbroken, Central Line Pass through the Center of every Part of a Compound Figure? 50 Solution of a " Knotty Question " — One or Two Things in the Path of Success — Chief Diffi- culties — Do we require a Different Draft for a Riding Cut (discussed), 51 Waistbands — Difficulties found — Bottoms — How to Form and Make — A Fatal Blunder — Figure 2— "The Limbs" (illustrated) 52 A New Feature in Diagram 5 (illustrated), — " Utility of the Idea, 53 Self-varying Principle — "Defects" (illustrated), 54 Various Methods Discussed (illustrated), — Noth- ing Easier than a Problem of Line and Angles "Judgment Dictates Changes," 55 Basis Laid Down for a Comparison between one System and Another (illustrated), 56 Extent of the Changes in the Location of the Legs (illustrated), 57 Sailor's Trousers — -"A System For "(illus- trated), — Diagram 8 and 9, 58 PAE^ I^MIEB Easy Lessons for Voung Beginners — Gutting and Making — To Begin — " DifiFerent Systems" — "A Sad Admission" — Humphrey's, Bel- fast's, Wampen's, Minister's, Oliver's, Geo. Smith's, and Haifa Dozen Others 60 " Our Chief Difficulty "—What System Is Cut by — On Measuring — " It May Seem Superflu- ous" — "Measuring Machines" — "Styles of Tapes to Use" — " Advantages Claimed 61 Great Care in Using the Measure — How the End of a Tape Disappeared — "A False Result" — A Good Story Is Told— Cleanliness To Be Observed — Awkwardness of Some Cutters in their Manner of Measuring 62 Position while Measuring — The Measures — How To Be Entered on the Cutting Book — How to Use a Pattern — "New Patent Twisted Stripcs"—WhatMany Cutters Hold to, 63 On "Marks" For Making up— " Our Experi- ence on the Board" — Danger of Twisting Knees — Taking out the Dress — " Illustrated by Diagrams " What Many Cutters Allow in the Work Shops, 64 Tom, Dick, and Harry, Have Just Received a Pair of Trousers and Opened them on the Board— "The First Duty," 64 The True Philosophy for Staying Garments — How to Put in the Pockets — When to Shrink the Bottoms, 05 How to Baste up in a Workmanlike Manner — Cutters Should Be Careful when the Lap-seam Is Wanted — An Easy Matter to Spoil the " Hang " of the Legs by Bad Seaming, 66 How to Seam the Leg Seams — How to Test the Seam when Done on a Machine — What Is Used for Sewing Material, 67 The Job Brought to the Cutting Board for In- spection — A Knowledge of the Disease Is Half Table of Contents. the Cure, 68 Finding Fault with a Maker for Badly Put on buttons — See that they Agree with the Meas- ures when Finished 69 In Esamining the Bottoms Marks Are Seen — Poorly Pressed, &o. — The Job Turned Inside out To Be Examined — Inspection of the Job Completed — Lessons on "Knock-Knees" and "Bandy-Legs," "0 "Knock-Knees" Introduced for Treatment — A Feature — " The Small-Kneed Man "—The Pe- culiarities Found 71 What Will Prevent Bulging at the Knee— Ban- dy-Legs not a Rare Form of Disproportion — Spindlrshanlis and Corkscrews — What Will Make a Race of Men with Better Shaped Legs 72 A Special Deformily — "Cause and Cure"— "Openness" at the Knet — It Can Be Pro- Tided for, 73 Alterations— When too Wide — When not High Enough — When the Side Seam Creases — When they Do not Come up in the Fork — If not Stride Enough — When the Side Scam Comes Forward on the Foot — When they Catch at the Knee — When too much Cloth at the Side of the Ankle— When they Catch at the Calf of the Leg — When too much Cloth Under the Thigh — When they Catch on the Front of the Thigh 74 g^m^ F@¥mi^M« A System by " Belfast"— Measuring for Trou- sers — It Is of the Greatest Importance, &c. (il- lustrated), 76 The Basis of the System — The "Wicket Gate" "Belfast" lias Opened into the Fair Domin- ion of Trouser Cutting— The Mode of Draft- ing (illustrated), 77 The Principle of the Construction Line (illus- trated), — The Undersides (illustrated) 78 Diagram 2 — For the Proportionate Figure (il- lustrated), 79 Diagram 1 — Trousers for the Corpulent Man,.... 80 Diagraml, Drawn inthe EasyStyle (illustrated), An Important Change Is Necessary in Cut- ting for Stout Men— What Has Often Puzzled the Young Cutter, 81 Diagram 2 on Taking out the Dress (illustrated) — We Do not Measure the Undress Side — Dia- gram 3 Shows Another Method of Providing for the Undress Side (illustrated) 82 Riding Tfousers Illustrated by Diagram 1 — How to Make up Biding Trousers, 83 Breeches and Pantaloons, Illustrated by Dia- gram 2, 84 To Draft Gaiters Illustrated by Diagram 3 — How to Make up — Over Erect and Stooping Figures, 85 The Flat Bellied Figure — Prominent Hips — Prominent Seats — Bandy Legs — Knock-Knees — Large Calves, 86 Concluding Remarks, 87 TECE ' ' ' ^sJeoiS i#ffitl. P^RT FIRST INTRODUCTORY. Taking the measurement of your cus- tomer for a pair of pantaloons, is the first preliminary step, and should be taken with the utmost caution, care, and obser- vation. We must be cautious to get at the correct understanding of our custom- er's wants and fancy, by questioning him. If we do so with care, observing at the same time his peculiar divergencies, if any are found, and noting same, we not only benefit ourselves, but, we convey to the mind of the person our disposition to please ; furthermore, it will impress him with confidence in our ability as an ar- tist, which will be a decided gain to the cutter, for when he calls for his job, he expects it will be all he fancied — a tasty and well-fitting garment. Should there happen to be any points that might seem defective to a well-trained eye, the facts of your willingness to please would lessen the defect in the eye of the purchaser, and correspondingly would favor you in mak- ing it acceptable to him. We next note on our measuring book the wants of our customer, how he wants his pockets put in, and how many ; whether a watch or hip pocket; how deep he likes them; how high he would like the waist; the size, if close or easy around the waist and hips ; if made up with a plain seam or welt ; how he likes the size of legs, shape of the bottoms, &c. These are points many will consider of minor importance. Those of maturer age, and who have had the experience of a quarter of a century, will not, or at least should not, be bene- fited by the advice given; for the young man who contemplates adorning the pro- fession, we ask of him to give the matter a careful perusal. While we may consider them weighty matters for the good of both cutter and customer, we would, with all deference, respect the opinions of others. Taking the size around a person is not going to give us a correct understanding of his form, that is, whether he is flat hip," or narrow in width across the front, and fleshy at back ; it only shows us that length of the circumference to be fitted. In the corpulent form there is quite a dif- ference in the shape of the protuberance of the abdomen. These facts must be met at the onset : the slim, flat seat, the hips leaning backward, hips forward, must be duly recognized as divergencies from a well-proportioned, or what we might con- sider a well-developed, figure ; then, the difi'erences found in length of leg, more particularly the form ; whether straight, with a full muscular development, touch- ing inside at the thigh, knee, and calf of the leg, or what is termed knock-kneed, with the feet standing apart. Then we find the bow-leg, caused by the knees standing apart with the feet close together. Again, the foot is found to turn inward and outward. We must take cognizance of these points, and study the cause, that we may be able to eS'ect a cure in the gar- 10 The Great Pantaloons System. ment that is to cover the said deformities. The corpulent figure is found to spread his feet, and often we find that the slim person does the same. Now for these va- rious deficiencies we must draft differently, and in some cases, make up with a consid- erable difference in the leg-seaming, to meet the wants of the customer. This subject will be treated separately under the heading of "Making up Pantaloons." WHAT TO MEASURE WITH. What we use is the inch tape measure for taking the outside length and sizes around, and for getting the inside seam length. We have had engraved an illus- tration of an instrument we use, which, for its simplicity and adaptness in getting said measure, is commendable to all. The cut represents the size and shape in full, also the manner of attaching the tape measure, by sewing, as represented by the four crosses, which are to show how the thread secures the measure from holes through the instrument. Said device can be made of wood or brass, which, when silver-plated, makes a beautiful pantaloon measure. To use it, you have only to place it up close in fork, which we think can be done far better than by any other means, and very correct. We can say that those who have tried it are loth to exchange for any other. HOW TO MEASURE. For a correct understanding of the measurement for pantaloons, we introduce an illustration of two figures, Fig. 1 and Fig. 2. First we take Fig. 2 to begin our work, and will commence by measur- ing from A, on outside seam of leg to B, 40J, usually to the top of heel to boot or shoe ; then from A down front in under fork, between the legs up over the fleshy part of hips at back, to A, the place of starting, 32. Then size around the waist at 2, just over the hip bone, 30 inches, then around hip, 3G inches at 3, and seat 38J inches at 4 (said measure must not be drawn too close), then thigh at 5, 24 inches, knee at 6, 17 inches, at bot- tom 7, 17J inches. The sizes around leg must be governed by style or the whims of your customer. We now proceed to use our pantaloon measure to take the length of inside seam from the fork, see Fig. 1, at D down to E, the knee bone, then to A, top of heel, corresponding with the out- side measure. With the above we have a complete measure as generally used. In addition, we have added two other measures for de- termining the amount of goods needed through the fork, which we claim is a point where nearly all the difficulties of importance center, in the fitting of the garment called pantaloons, or trousers, which subject we introduced in the col- umns of the Tailors' Intelligencer, in our November issue for 1870. In this work we will more completely carry out our ideas in relation to the subject for fitting the corpulent figure. We further claim with the use of said measures that we do get the needed amount of goods required through the crotch at fork junction. Al- though we do not need to take said meas- ures for every form, yet for the extrem* thick hips, and for the large, fleshy, stout figure, it is of the greatest importance to know the exact length required. TO GET THE MEASURE. First make a chalk mark in front of your customer at B, then take distance from A to B, and mark the same length from A on the back in center at C, as shown by dotted lines. Then place your measure at C, and pass the same thjough fork up to B, drawing it close so as to take up all the surplus goods. How to use said measure and make a practical disposition of same will be found in the description of figure A A, and the complete draft for the corpulent person, in Dia. E. Let me say before closing the subject / i The Great Pantaloons System. 11 of measuring, that you can accomplish the work by standing on one side of your cus- tomer, which would be far better than to be in front, and more pleasant to your customer, as many are sensitive and nerv- ous, and withal quite delicate about any roughness or harshness in taking the meas- urement for pantaloons. We should avoid in every case the giving of offense to our patrons. Gentleness with dignity is never lost, and in tlie end will grace the adorner. ANATOMY OF THE LEG. In furnishing an illustration of the out- line of a leg, we do it to better convey the causes of the differently formed limbs found in our examination of this subject, and for a more complete description of the anat- omy of the leg, see another portion of this work. In this cut, extending from left side at top, and passing at 1 obliquely across the limb, then descending vertically as far as the inner side of the knee, &c., is found the longest muscle in the body, named, Sartorius, or the tailor's muscle. It is so named from its bending the knee and drawing the leg across. It is a flat, narrow, ribbon-like muscle, and to the left of this muscle is the Tensor Vagina; Fem- oris, a short, flat muscle situated at the upper and outer side of the thigh. We have found individuals with this muscle so much enlarged as to cause the leg of a pair of pants to swing so the outside seam would turn in on top of foot. It is rarely found, and in this instance it was caused by an injury of the thigh. Situated in the middle of the thigh 2 2, is found the Rec- tus Femoris, on the outside of this mus- cle, and situated below the main part of Tensor Vaginre Femoris, is found Vastus Exturnus, which are the principal muscles that assist to make up a full thigh in front. Below the knee, at the outside of leg. A, 3, the largest muscle in front is found, called the Tibialis Anticus. It is thick and fleshy at its upper part and tendi- nous below. At the back of the leg, oppo- site this muscle, we find the muscles in this region subdivided into two layers, superficial and deep. The superficial layer constitutes a powerful muscular mass, forming what is called the calf of le