Class F ^7 Book __^^a3_ Copyright N° COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. ■^•^^ *6^H 1(3/^(^0 TO tMe * 3^ a T D "CmCJiGO TO THE sea:' Eia^ STEl Fi K EXCURSIONIST A COMPLETE GUIDE ♦^PrinEipaHEaslErn^SumniEr^HEsnrls^^ INCLUDING afpd ^aguenay Sliv0t^, JWanftcaf and Qiicl>co, fftc JY'civ ^ntjfand Sea ^cacflc^, etc., HDIAZ" AND IffHEN TD ENJDY THEM. y.M ' By William C. Gage, Al'THOR OF "THE SWITZERLAND OF AMERICA," "HAND-BOOK OF TH.V»'rt," " TtR A^tltB R-F,|0 OF THE GREAT NORTHWEST," "GOOD BEHAVIOR AT HOME VXD AKKiJAl'," Ell. Battle Creek, Mich REVIEW & HERALD STEAM PRINTING New York: Union News Company 1883. CO PYRIGHTED X 8 8 3, BY \VM. C. GAGE. Gr\^ ->N03FEg^II^lf^0DaCT0RY.^ I.— EASTWARD HO! HILE it is true that tlie great tide of travel, like tlie " star of empii'e," is ever westward, and the ii'on-bound highways lead- ing toward the setting sun are the channels through which this current surges with ever-increas- ing volume, yet like those of the ocean, this tide has its ebb as well as flow. The business re- lations which exist between the East and the West render nec- " essary a constant intercommuni- cation, which of itself is suflicient to account for much of the returning travel. In addition to this, the social relations also exert their influ- ence. The man who " went West " to make his fortune desires to revisit the home of his youth on the Eastern hillside. Perhaps his children, who have grown up on the prairies, wish to see the hills and valleys so often described by their parents, and contrast the almost boundless expanses of the " great West " with the rugged moimtain scenery and the rocky farms, where unceasing toil, coupled, perhaps, with honest povei'ty, laid the foundation for sterling integrity, which the ease and freedom of Western life have not served to obliterate. The attractions of the natural scenery of the East are of themselves sufficient to call to them annually thousands of tourists, who, independ- ently of the causes already mentioned, occupy their " summer vaca- tions" with an Eastern tour simply for the enjoyment of the attractions presented in the way of pleasant routes of travel, and the scenery to be enjoyed on the way or at the objective point of the journey. With a view of meeting the wants of this great and constantly increasing class of exciirsionists, this work has been written. It is designed to point out the most desirable roiites between Chicago and the Eastern seaboard, and to serve as a book of ready reference by the b INTRODUCTORY. way. The lines of travel chosen are such as will give the tourist the most favorable opportunities for visiting the celebrated summer resorts en 7'oitte, and secure the advantages of palace coaches, dining cars, quick transit, and siire connections, — considei'ations which combine to make a journey enjoyable, and by means of which a trip becomes a luxury as a means as well as an end. The descriptions are made simple and practical, and with no efibrt to impart a roseate hue to the scenes described, but with a view to aid the tourist in "seeing with his own eyes" the beauties of landscape or other scenery from the most favorable points of observation, and dis- cover for himself the things too often seen only through the medium of the guide book. II.— SUMMER TRAVEL. The benefits arising from a summer jaunt, with its release from the cares of business, are of inestimable value. "Work and worry" are killing hundreds who might be saved to long life and happiness could they but bi-eak away from their toil for a trip to the mountains or sea- side, or some other place where business could for the time be forgotten. Though the respte be only a brief one, a break in the monotony of a busy life will sometimes relieve the tension which if too long continued snaps asunder the strings which need relaxation to preserve their strength. The man who esteems his life work too important to admit of va- cations sometimes learns, when too late for remedy, that unremitting application to his task has totally disqualified him for its continuance, and long before the period when he ought to be in his prime, he is compelled to relinquish to others the work he so fondly hoped to finish himself. A little relaxation now and then might have saved him from a collapse, but "he could n't afibrd the time." Happily for the American business world, the infection of "summer travel" grows more and more contagious as its benefits become better understood. Year by year the tide increases in volume, and the facil- ities of travel are multiplied to meet the demand. If these jmges shall serve to assist the tourist in the choice of his route, or, the choice being made, in rendering his journey moi*e enjoyable, their purpose will be fully met. ~^'lf(^':z^ :CFIC^60v¥0vTpEvgEH. l^^ d THE STARTING POINT. HICAGO, the gi-eat metropolis of tlie Northwest, with its multitude of railroad lines, and its enormous commercial interests, is most naturally the point of departure for east-bound touiists. Travelers from localities west of Chicago will desire to tarry in the city for a brief period, to visit its water-works, the grand exposition building, and and the variety of other objects of interest which render the place attractive to strangers. In carrying out this purpose, they will lind the hotel accommodations of the city to be second to none in America. The Grand Pacific, Palmer, Clifton, Briggs, Sherman, Merchants, and a host of others of good repute, invite the tourist to share their hospitalities, with the assurance of regal fcxi-e and sumptuous accommodations. For full information in regard to Chicago hotels and their terms, the reader is referred to the Daily National Hotel Reporter, which gives reliable and complete advices on this subject. The limits of this work forbid even a mention of the many objects of interest to be seen in Chicago ; and having to do with the city only as the starting point for our tourist, we next settle the question as to tlie route by which our Eastern journey is to be performed. Keeping in view the important points of speed, safety and comfort, together with the attractiveness of the scenery en route, we tind the claims of THE MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD To be of a character to meet all the requirements of the most exacting traveler. It has long been known as the Niagara Falls Route, and its recent acquirement of the Canada Southern Railway, making now a continuous line from Chicago to the very verge of the famous cata- ract, more fully than ever entitles it to that appellation. Its through sleeping-car connections, its siiperior equipment, its famous dining-cars, together with the attractive country which it traverses, and the many interesting points reached by it, all combine to decide the question of superiority, and influence the tourist in his choice of routes. 8 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. The traveler ariiving in Chicago by other roads, and not desiring to tarry in the city, can be immediately transferred by Parmelee's omnibus line to the depot of the Michigan Central, at the foot of Lake street, and taking his seat in a Wagner drawing-room car, commence his journey with baggage checked through to destination, and with the assurance that his comfort will be carefully considered on the part of the train employes from the beginning of his trip to tlie end of the road. THE CELEBRATED FAST EXPRESS Of this road leaves Chicago in the afternoon, and as all first-class tickets are accepted on this train without extra chai'ge, it is a favorite with the traveling public. In the season of summer travel, it is a popular tourists' train, on account of its timely arrival at Niagara, allowing the excursionist to spend the entire day at the Falls, and take the evening train for the Bt. Lawrence Kiver, which is reached at Clayton the next morning. From this point, the elegant day boats of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company make the trip down the river to Montreal, via Round Island Park, the celebrated Thous:ind Islands, the famous Rapids, and past the most lovely scenery of this beautiful river, which stoutly contests with the Hudson the claim to the title of the " Rhine of America." Tiie entire journey is by daylight, the boats reaching Montreal at 6 p. m. This trip, which will be more fully described in its proper place, constitutes one of the delightful features of the excursion "to the sea," and has been immensely popiilarized by the efforts of the St. Lawrence Steamboat Company, which is the only line down the St. Lawrence running boats exclusively for passen- ger service. It has won its way to the favor of the traveling public in the two past years of successful operation, being popularly known as the New American Line. But to return to the point of digression. Leaving Chicago by any of the express trains of the Michigan Central, the tourist has at his service all the facilities which make pleasant a journey by rail. The celebrated Wagner drawing-room and sleeping cars are run through to New York and Boston without change, dining cars are attached to the trains at convenient hours for meals, and courteous and attentive con- ductors, train men, porters, etc., contribute to the comfort and pleasure of the traveler as occa.sion presents for their services. The ride out of the city and through the suburbs for a considerable distance is along the shores of Lake Michigan, presenting views of the lake craft, with their white sails, or clouds of smoke and vapor from their stacks, as far as the eye can reach. The government pier, with its protecting wall, stretches along the shore, and in the distance may be seen the "crib" of the water- works. On the other hand, the Douglas monument and park present them- selves to view, together with numerous interesting objects peculiar to the suburbs of a great city, until, increasing its speed, the train passes THE DINING-CAR SYSTEM. 9 fairly into the open countiy, whicli is here and tliere dotted witli a siibiirban residence, or the buiklings of some thrifty farmer, or per- chance a pretty viUage, whose inhabitants have their business interests in Chicago, but their homes in the quiet suburbs of the bustling city. Fifteen miles out, we pass the charming town of Pullman, a model settlement, sometimes called the "magic city," with its elegant build- ings, all of brick, in the most ajaproved styles of architecture. Its important industrial enterprises are largely connected with the interests of travel, comprising the Allen paper car- wheel shops, the Pullman car manufactory, and various other establishments which contribute to the pi'osperity of this flourishing town. At about this stage of the jonrney, if on board the Fast Express, or the later train known as the Atlantic, the tourist is greeted with the welcome announcement, from a man in white cajj and apron, look- ing as though he had just stepped in from the Palmer House cafe, "DINNER NOW READY IN THE DINING CAR." Among the modei-n comforts of railway traveling, the dining-car system takes a prominent plnce. The hasty scramble for refreshments at a wayside restaurant, with the constant fear of "getting left," and a consequent bolt- ing of half- masticated food, with dyspepsia in its train, now gives place to a leisurely eaten meal, served in elegant style, with all the ajtpoint- ments and conveniences that can be suggested by the most refined taste. The Michigan Central was among the first to ado[)t this innovation, and so iiopular has it become as an adjunct to their already long list of popular features, that they have recently con- structed four of these elegant hotels upon wheels, and placed them upon their line between Chicago and Niagara Falls. These dining cars are models of taste, elegance and convenience, with spacious kitchens, store rooms and lavatories, large plate-glass windows, folding or opera chairs, and in fact every convenience that taste and experience could suggest for the comfort of their patrons. A glance at the mentb, which is as complete as that of a first-class hotel attests the fact that the gratification of its patrons, and not profit 10 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. to its treasiuy, is the first great aim of the company in opei-ating the dining-car system. Indeed, it may well be questioned how such elegant meals can be furnished for the sum of seventy-live cents, when a simi- lar repast at many a hotel in the land would cost from one to two dollars. Perhaps a solution of the problem may be found in the re- mai'k of a shrewd Yankee, who once sat opposite the writer at tal)le in one of these cars. He had evidently fasted for many hours jii-evious, as his voracious appetite clearly indicated. On rising from tlie table, he soliloquized thus : "Well, I guess this concern han't made much out o' me this time, but I shall alius come by this route hereafter." , The dining-car system is also in successful operation on the Canada division of the Michigan Central, the equipments and a|)j)ointments being of the same character and completeness. Indeed, so popular has this feature become, that several other cars are in course of construc- tion to extend the system in a manner to meet every demand of the public for accommodation in this direction. But while we have been thiis indulging in retlections on this sub- ject, the train has been speeding onward, and here we are at Michigan City, on the extreme southern shore of Lake Michigan, and the great lumber port of Northern Indiana. It is a railroad center of some im- jjortance, the Indianapolis, Peru k Chicago, and Louisville, New Al- V)any & Chicago Railroads occupying the union depot with the Mich- igan Central. The population is about eight thousand, and its princi- pal business interests are manufacturing and lumber. The view of the city from the car windows gives a less favorable impression of the place than a 'closer inspection entitles it to, the immense sand bluffs and unpretending buildings on the lake shore being the most conspic- uous objects near the track. The city proper is quite an attractive and pleasant locality. Its chief hotels are the 8t. Nicholas, Union and Jewell. Ten miles further eastward, we reach New Buffalo, the southern terminus of the Chicago tk West Michigan Bailroad, which from this point skii'ts the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, forming the shore line to Pentwater. It is a pretty little town of about one thousand inhabitants. Passing several stations at which the express trains make no stop, twenty miles further on we reach Niles, a flourishing city of nearly five thousand inhabitants. The Michigan Central has a branch road i-unning from this point to South Bend, and it is also the western terminus of its "Air Line " division, the other being Jackson. Much of the freight luisiness of the road is done over this division, relieving the main line for the better accommodation of its immense passenger traffic. Mercantile and man- ufacturing interests occujiy the attention of the thriving people of Niles, a superior water power furnishing excellent facilities for ffour and paper mills and other enterprises, which combine to make this an important business center. Its leading hotels are the Bond, Pike and Farler. IMPURTANT TOWNS ALONO THE LINE. 11 At Lawton, tliirty-oiie miles from Niles, connection is made vvitli the Paw Paw Railroad for Hartford, Lawrence and Paw Paw. The express trains do not stop, however, but, hurrying onward, the next important station is that so well known as the " Big Village." Kalamazoo, with a i)opulation of about twelve thousand, and no city charter, prides itself on being one of the largest villages in America. Except in its municipality, however, it is, to all intents and purjioses, a city, with its extensive public works, its thriving manufact- uring establishments, and its imjjortant railroad intei-ests. The South Haven division of the Michigan Central exteiids westward from here to the shore of Lake Michigan. Intersection is also made with the Orand Rapids it Indiana Raih-oad and the Kalamazoo division of the Lake Shore Railway. The manufacturing and mercantile interests of Kalamazoo are quite extensive, and it has also acquired no little celeb- rity as a mai-ket for su})erior agricultural products. Its leading hotels are the Burdick House, Kalamazoo House and American House. Battle Creek, twenty-three miles east of Kalamazoo, is the next important city on the route, and is one of the most thriving and enter- prising towns in the State. Many of its business interests are on an extensive scale, notably the manufacture of threshing machinery and engines, three large establishments being devoted to this industry. On ajtproaching the city the buildings of the Review rf' Herald Pub- lishing establishment ai'e among the first to attract attention, and just before the train comes to a. halt, it passes the shops of the Battle Creek Machinery Company, which are on the left of the track, while the factory of the Union School Furniture Company is nearly O])posite, on the right. The products of the forjner company are shipped to all parts of the world, while the "Automatic" school-seat is jxcciuiring a national reputation as one of the most convenient and unique articles of furniture ever put in use in a school-room. The intersection of the Michigan Central, the Chicago k. Grand Trunk, and the Toledo k Milwaukee Railroads, the latter just com- pleted, renders Battle Creek an important railroad center, and accounts for the rapid and prosperous growth of the city. This is also the loca- tion of the CELEBRATED MEDICAL AND SURGICAL SANITARIUM, Which has gained an enviable reputation as an invalid's home. Al- though not originally designed as a summer resort, its facilities in that direction have made it a favorite summer home for many who would liardly call themselves invalids. Here may be found a remedy for one great drawback to the success of summer vacations in general, which are often robbed of much of their sanitary benefit by poor food and in- attention to the laws of health. While the caisine of this establish- ment is of the most bounteous character, it is especially ordered with reference to healthfulness, and is in itself one imj^ortant element of the great siiccess of the institution in curing the sick. 12 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. The facilities of the Sanitarium for the treatment of disease are the best known to modern medical science. In addition to baths of eveiy description, including Tnrkisli, Russian, vapor, electro-vapor, thermal. etc., the employment of massage, Swedish movements, and the various forms of electrical treatment, are provided for by costly appliances, some of which were designed expressly for this institution. When we add that the medical superintendent, Dr. J. H. Kellogg, is a member of the State Board of Health, and occupies a position of great prom- IMPORTANT TOWNS ALONG THE LINE. 13 inence as a writer and lectui"er on sanitary matters, and that a staff of educated and intelligent gentlemen and lady physicians are constantly caring for patients and visitors, we have indicated some of the reasons for the mai'velous prosi)erit\ of the institution. Our illustration gives a view of the main building. A large numlier of cottages and other buildings make up the facilities of the SANiTAUirii for taking care of its guests. The leading hotels of Battle Creek are the Lewis House and the Williams House, the Sanitarium being also a favorite transient home Avith many travelers. Shortly after leaving the station at Battle Creek, the train comes to a halt at the crossing of the Chicago & Grand Trunk Railway, at the station named Nichols, the location of the extensive works where are maniifactiired the celebrated Nichols, Shepard & Co.'s " Vi- brator " threshing machinery, engines, etc. This is one of the most important industries of the city, giving employment to a large number of skilled mechanics. Just beyond are the railroad shops of the C. & G. T. Company, which also furnish employment to a goodly number of men. Marshall, the next important station, is a pleasant little town, the county seat of Calhoun county, with some maniifacturing interests, and considerable wealth, being the center of a large and prosperous agricul- tural district. It is widely known among travelers as the dining station of the Michigan Central Railroad. The day trains still make their stops here for dinner, and the hours of midday are among the liveliest the people of this quiet place witness. It is the boast of the managei's of the dining-i'ooms that a faihire to provide chicken pie foi- their guests has- occurred but once in seventeen years, although fabulous prices often have to be paid for the feathered bipeds to perpetuate the time-honored custom. The Tontine, Forbes and Ti'emont Houses are the principal hotels. Albion is the next town of much imjjortance in our journey, and is really a thriving place, some of its manufactures being widely known. It is also the seat of Albion College, a flourishing denominational school, imder the management of the Methodists. Our road here intersects the Lansing division of the Lake Shore Railway. The princi])al hotels of Albion are the Commercial and the Albion House. Our fiext important station is Jackson, the largest city in the inte- rior of the State. As the central point of heavy railroad interests, important manufactures, and extensive coramei-cial enterprises, the city is well known. The State ]irison is located liere. and is of itself a manufacturing establishment of no little importance. The railroad shops of the Michigan Central give employment to nearly a thousand men, and thus contribute largely to the city's jHOsperity. The mineral resources of the vicinity are of no small magnitude, comprising coal, salt, tire clay, etc. It is the terininus of the Grand River Yallev, Air Line, and Sagi- 14 CHICAUU TO THE SEA. naw divisions of the Michigan Central Raih'oad and the Fort Wayne and Jackson branches of the Lake Shoie and Michigan Southern Rail- way. Passengers cliange here for the ])leasure resorts of northern Michigan, via the Mackinaw Division of the Central, with which con- nection is maile at Bay City. The Hibbard House, the Hnrd Honse, the Commercial, and several smaller hotels, take good care of travelers who have occasion to tarry in Jackson. Thirty-eight miles west of Detroit, the train halts at Ann Arbor, the county seat of Washtenaw county, which has a resident population of about ten thousand, not including the stndents ol" the State Univer- sity, which number nearly hfteen hundi-ed. The city is pleasantly sit- iiated on both sides of the Huron River, its streets being wide, finely- laid out, and adorned with shade trees. The Toledo, Ann Arbor k, UNIVEHSITV OF MICHIGAN. Gi-and Ti-unk Railway gives the place a north and south bxisiness out- let, while the Central takes care of the east and west business. The Huron River furnishes excellent water power, and the flourishing in- dustries of the city show how well it is improved. In addition to all these, its reputation as an educational center places it among the most important of Michigan citi-s. Its local ])ub- lic schools are of a high order of excellence, especially its High School, which occupies an elegant building costing !:?o(»,()0i). But its chief importance in this respect is from the fact of its being the seat of the University of Michigan, with its depai'tments of litei'ature, science and arts, law, medicine, pharmacy, dental sxn-gery, and engineering. This- institution has almost a world-wide reputation as one of the foremost IMPORTANT TOWNS ALONO THE LINE. 15 schools in the land, and indeed many of its students ax-e from aliroad, attracted by its fame, and the excellent facilities at their command. The St. James, Cook, and Leonard Houses, are the principal hotels. Ypsilanti, eight miles distant from Ann Arbor, is the next stop- ping place, and is a pleasant town of some live thousand inhabitaiits. The line water power of Hnron River is here utilized by several manu- factoi'ies, among which that of paper-making is brought to a high state of excellence. In addition to the railroad facilities aftbrded by the Michigan Central, it has southerly communication by means of a branch of the Lake Shore & Michiiran Southern Railwav. It is the STATE NORMAL SCHOOL. seat of the State Normal School, which occupies an elegant building, and beautiful groimds, the latter donated to the State for the purpose. There are many line residences here, some of them the homes of busi- ness men of Detroit. The Roberts, Lewis, and Hawkins Houses, the European, and sev- eral others, furnish adequate hotel accommodations. From Ypsilanti, the train speeds swiftly over the smoothest of tracks, past pleasant villages, through verdant fields, and in view of snug farm-houses, the next important stopping places being Wayne Junction, where connection is made with the Flint &. Pere Marquette Railroad, and Springwells, formerly Grand Trunk Junction, three miles beyond which is DETROIT, THE CITY OF THE STRAIT. The largest city in Michigan, and its commercial metropolis, it is beautifully situated on the Detroit River, 18 miles from Lake Erie, and 7 from Lake St. Clair. It is one of the prettiest, pleasantest cities in all the West, and the oldest, as well. Its rapid gi'owth during the past twenty years is a marked feature in connection with its history. The many lines of railroad centering here, and its extensive commercial interests, togethei' with the rich agricultural region which here finds an outlet for its products, all contribute to the prosperity of the city. 16 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. The exci^rsionist will fin'd mucli to interest in a visit to Detroit. Its location upon tlie river, which is here about half a mile wide, sug- gests excursions by w^ater, which constitute a considerable share of the recreation of its people, by the numerous lines of steamers which ply between the city and various points on the river and the lakes. The public parks of the city aiibrd pleasant " breathing places " for those ■who choose to avail themselves of their advantages. In addition to the older resorts of this class, the city has recently pitrchased Belle Isle, with an area of about 800 acres, and a pai"k commission are en- gaged in the work of improvement, the result of which will be the pro- viding of a place of recreation for citizens and visitors, comparing fa- vorably with the parks of any of the large cities. Boats leave at frequent intervals for the Island, from the foot of Woodward Avenue. To notice the many attractions which tempt the tourist to prolong his stay in the beautiful City of the Strait would require too much of our space. We can only add that the resources of the vicinity in the ■way of entertainment and recreation are ample, and of sufficient variety to render a visit to the city an occasion of much enjoyment. The hotel facilities are unexcelled, comprising fifty or more, including the Antis- del, Brunswick, Griswold, Madison, Michigan Exchange, Rice's Tem- perance, St. Charles, Russell, and a variety of lesser houses, at all prices. At those above mentioned, the terms range from f 1 to $3.50 per day. CROSSING THE FERRY. Continuing our eastward journey from Detroit, the river is crossed to the Canada shore by means of the ferry, and the transhipment of the train is an operation of much ititerest to one who observes it for the first time. The mammoth transfer boat, capable of holding, in several sections, the long passenger train, is securely fastened to the dock, and the cars are run on, with theii" load of passengers and baggage. The powerful machinery of the boat is set in motion, and in a few moments the train is again made up at Windsor, on the Canada side, ready to proceed on its way. Windsor, the western terminus of the Canada division of tiie Michigan Central Railroad, is a floux-ishing town of about eight thou- sand inhal)itants directly across the river from Detroit. The town of Sandwich, two miles below, has some celebrity as a summer resort on account of its mineral springs. The chief interest of the American tourist iii regard to Canada, however, is in getting through it. While there are many things worthy of note in connection with the homes of our cousins over the border, they are best appi-eciated by a longer tarry than can be afforded by the excursionist who makes a flying trip between the West and the East. The prejudice of the native American, so frequently manifested against everything Canadian, is often as unfounded as it is unreasonable. To be sure, the difference between Canada and the States in habits and THE ROUTE THROUGH CANADA. 17 customs is sometimes quite marked, but frequently not more so than that existing between different sections of our own country. The rail- road is doing much toward the annihilation of all these differences, by facilitating intercourse and the comingling of the peojile of all sections. The trip through Canada is via the Canada division, formerly the CANADA SOUTHERN RAILWAY, And is the only line through Canada under distinctiively American man- agement. While the Michigan division of the road conti-ibutes a lai-ge amount of local business, even to the express ti-ains, the less populous districts of Canada are sufficiently accommodated by the local trains, allowing the through expresses to make long and rapid runs, with few stops. The fast New York express, for instance, is timed to make the run from Windsor to St. Thomas, a distance of 111 miles, with only a single stop, about midway. The level country through which the road passes, with the long stretches of air'; line, many miles in extent, are conducive to smooth and i'a})id running, and in this respect amply compensates for any lack of beauty in the natural scenery. There are, however, some quite interesting sections of country on the route. St. Thomas, about midway of the line, is a city of some eight or nine thoiisand inhabitants, and of considerable importance as a railroad center. We here cross the Great Western division of the Grand Trunk, and connect with the St. Clair division of the Michigan Central, and the Ci'edit Valley Railway for Toronto. The leading hotels are the Commercial, Queens, Hutchinson, Wilcox and Lisgar. At Niagara Junction the train divides, and that portion having Buffalo for its objective 2"»oint, proceeds, by way of Fort Erie and Black Bock, to the Union Depot in Buffalo, while the other ])ortion goes to America's greatest pleasure resort via the ISiagara- Falls division of the road. Should the tourist choose to lirst visit Buflalo, he may proceed to the Falls by later trains, which run at frequent intervals during the day between the two points. THE CITY OF BUFFALO Is of interest to the excursionist as one of the most important com- mercial centers west of New York City, and the focus of a large num- ber of railroads. It has a magniticent harbor, one of the best on the whole chain of lakes, its water front extending about five miles, half on Lake Erie and half on Niagara Biver. Its grain elevators, some thirty in all, have a storage capacity of nearly six millions of bushels, and are capable of transferring a])Out half that amount every twenty- four hours. As the western terminus of the Erie Canal, and with its lake shipping and railroad facilities, it has become the largest grain port in America, with the single exception of New York City. The traveler who may wish to prolong his stay in Buffalo will find a multitude of hotels, of all deei'ees of excellence. JilBliii; jiill!lk.jiil»irj«lBk..iiilllltii!; jiillllliir. .mllllk alkjiilSiir. jOir^^iill'Ik.iiiftrjiillIlInr / ^•^» Niagara Falls. w#- "W *lillF"^"!iaF"^i|ll«'^ 'I'JillF aii|j]»ir:;iij|j||ir-ji»|j[ic ■jii||j[n- •j«]|j||iit ]iii|;|Nr] all the pleasure- resorts on the American continent, probably none receive annually so many visitors as the famous cataract where the waters of the upper lakes so grandly plunge over the precipice on their way to Lake Ontario. The reasons for this are, doubtless, first, the wonderful atti-activeness of the Falls as an object of interest, ;ind, secondly, their ease of ac- cess, and the consequent facility with which they may be visited. Sit- uated upon the main thoroughfare between the East and the West, over which such a constant tide of travel is surging throughout the entire year, it requires biit little sacrifice of time on the part of many to pay them a visit. Biit these are merely the casual \ isitors, in addi- tion to whom thousands annually come from all ])arts of the land, and from over the ocean, to gaze upon this far-famed catai-act. We design to give in this chapter such facts as shall serve as a complete guide for the tourist in visiting this resort, not only to all the points of interest, but such other information as shall render his visit enjoyable. Before entering into particiilars, we present a general de- scription of Niagara, in a comprehensive view, which will assist the reader in understanding the several detailed descriptions which follow. Niagara River is the outlet of Lake Erie, connecting it with On- tario, the lowest in the great chain of lakes, which unitedly are the largest inland resei'voirs in the world. The river is only '.\'S miles in length, and the total descent in that distance is 334 feet, Lake Ontario being that much lower than Erie, which is 565 feet above sea level. About a mile above the Falls the waters commence to descend with great velocity, constituting what is known as the Rapids, second in in- terest only to the Falls themselves, and adding to the interest of the latter by giving such an increased velocity to the water in its plunge over the precipice. The total descent in this mile is 52 feet, and the NIAGARA FALLS. 19 waters come rushing and tumbling along the rocky bed of the stream, which is Ixere considerably narrower than its general channel above. Jiist above the Falls ai'e several small islands, connected by a sys- tem of bridges with one another and the American shore, and affording a matrniticent view of the Eajdds. Standins; on one of the bridges, or the upper shoi"e of an island, and looking up the stream, the view pre- sented is grand and impressive, as the resistless torrent seems ready to overwhelm all in its course. These islands, combined with a sharp cuive in the course of the stream, widen the channel to about 4,750 feet, one-fourth of which is occupied by Goat Island, the largest of the group, which here extends to the extreme verge of the precipice, and divides the stream and the Falls into two distinct parts. The American Fall is about 1,1()0 feet wide, and the remaimler, or Canada fall, aboxit double the width, although from its curved or horse- shoe shape the line of the brink is considerably longer than the direct breadth. Our illustration pi-esents a tine view of the American Fall from below, looking nortliward. The waters here make a sheer descent of 164 feet, while the height of the Canjidian Fall is from 12 to 14 feet less, owing to the lengthening of the Rapids and the curve of the stream. The vohime of water in the Canada Fall is much greater, however, than that of the American, and the impetus given by the Rapids carries the water over the precipice with great velocity, and it foi'ms a grand curve in the descent, falling clear of the rocky wall into the bed of the river below. The lower strata of this wall being of a loose, shaly character, the action of the spray has hollowed it out, so that between the wall of rock and the descending wall of water, a, cavernous space exists, into which the tourist may ventiire by a rocky and somewhat periloiis path from the Canada side. It is needless to add that a water-pioof sxiit adds materially to the comfort of those who thus venture. Similar trips may be made under the American Fall, which will be duly described in detail. Below the Falls, on the American side, is a stairway and an in- clined-plane railway, leading to the water's edge, and connecting with a ferry which here crosses to the Canada shore by means of small boats, amid the spray and over the turbixlent waters, not yet at rest from their mighty plunge. The banks below the Falls are very high and precijntous, and the channel contracts to less than a thousand feet, varying in the descent to Lake Ontario, from 200 to 400 yards. The entire river, from its source to its mouth, is an interesting geological study. The changes that have taken place in the formation of its banks, and the topography of the country through which it passes, furnish much food for conjecture, upon which several theories have been constructed, one of which seems to be quite xmiversally adopted, viz., that the Falls have gradually receded from a point below AMERICAN FALL, FROM BELOW, NIA(JARA FALLS. 21 tlieii- present location, some say as far down as the high bhitl' at Lewis- ton, seven miles from Lake Ontario. This recession is clue to the action of the water upon the sections of the I'ocky bed which have successively formed the verge of the cataract, and which have doubtless varied in character along the course of the river. The action of the spray and the violence of the rebounding waters, combined perhaps with other causes, wore away the softer, shaly substratum, imtil the harder but thinner upper sti-atum could no longer siippox't tlie massive weight and resist the velocity of the waters, and fell into the channel below. This theory is abimdantly supported not only by the appearance of the Falls and the channel, but by sev- eral occurrences of exactly this chai-acter. In 1818, massive fragments fell from the American fill, and in 1828 a like occurrence took place in the Horseshoe Fall, in each instance producing a concussion like an earthqiiake. A view of the Falls by Father Hennepin, made in the year 1678, presents the feature of a distinct fall on the Canada side, somewhat like that on the American side, or nearly at right angles with the main ftill. This was occasioned by a great rock, which divided the current and turned a portion of it in that direction, and which has evidently since fallen. (See engraving on page 36.) How long a time would be required for the Falls to recede to Lake Erie, is of course conjectiiral, as no data of sufficient reliability can Ije established fi'om which to make a calculation. Indeed, it is believed by some geologists that higher up the river the formation of the bed is of such a character as to successfully resist the further encroachments of the water in that direction, the hard formation being of greater depth and tirmness. But to the present generation Niagara Falls will remain an object of gi'eat interest, and will doubtless continue to receive, as in the past^ the visits of great multitudes of tourists, either on account of their real attractiveness, or because it is the fashion. With this general view of the Falls, the reader will be pre))ared for the details, which, taken together, make up the comprehensive whole, and which constitiite a visit to Niagara an event re})lete with lasting memories. It detracts not a little fi'om the enjoyment of the spectator to tind that at this resort the oriental demand for " backsheesh " prevails in the modified form of tolls, fees, etc., and that tvhat is here enjoyed in the line of sight-seeing must be paid for. Yet this is not to be won- dered at when we consider that the parties who own the vantage ground must thus reap from it a sustaining harvest. What is legiti- mately demanded of the visitor in the way of tolls and admission fees may be considered as a sine qua non, and should not in the least mar his pleasure, as he receives in such cases a full equivalent for his expenditure. I'l CHICAGO TO THE SEA. "TRICKS THAT ARE [NOT ALWAYS] VAIN." There is one thing, however, which no tourist is prepared to meet with composure, and which h.e will need to guard againt here, namely, extortion, or an unexpected or unreasonalile demand for money in pay- ment for services not contracted for nor supposed to be in the market. HORSESHOE FALLS AND KAPIDS. Much has been said and written about the extortions of Niagara hack- men, until their practices have become a byword. In justice to some of these individuals it should be said that there are among them hon- orable men, who will do by you just as they agree, and will make no effort to defraud. It is always safe, however, to make an agreement with your driver as to the service he is to render you, and just what you are to pay him in return. When the terms of yonr contract are met, accejit no further service without 'understanding its cost. NIAGARA FALLS. 23 The need of this precaution will be apparent from the following fiicts. The lawful rate for carrying a })assenger from one ])oint to an- other in the villages aboiit the Falls is tifty cents, or one dollar from ^•illage to village ; yet a driver Avill frequently offer to carry a jiassenger for fen cents. Once in the carriage, however, he is urged to see this and that ])oint of interest, and with the memory of the ten-cent o.fer as a basis for prospective expenses, he often yields to the impor- tunities of the hackman, until he finds to his dismay that he has run up a bill, by the legal tariff, of from three to live dollai's. While the man is charging him only what the law allows him to collect, the vic- tim is chagrined at the method by which it is extorted from him, and it rankles as an unpleasant memory in his otherwise pleasurable rec- ollections of his visit. We have been thus expli(;it in treating upon a suljject to which no Niagara guide book we have ever seen gives more than a passing allu- sion, in order that the tourist may know what to expect, and how to meet it in the very outset. If you choose to accept of a hackman's "ten- cent" ofier, be sure that you take no more than is "nominated in the' liond," lest with the "pound of flesh " there come a drop of blood moi'e costly than all the rest. THE FIRST VIEW OF THE FALLS. The approach to Niagara, by the line of the Michigan Central, is by a route nearly parallel with the river, from above on the Canada shore, and is beyond question, the best view to be had from any railroad train conveying its passengers near the place. As the train draws near the mighty cataract, the foaming rapids above the Falls burst upon the view, as if to prepare the mind for the exhibition of resistless power to l)e revealed in the grand plunge of waters into the abyss below. In a few moments the ti'ain comes to a halt in full view of the Falls, with the Horseshoe or Canada Fall in the foreground, and Goat Island and the American Fall directly across the river, with the deep gorge between through which the river flows, spanned by the new suspension bridge. The picture thus presented is one of surpassing beauty. While a nearer v^iew will impi-ess the mind more completely with the sublime majesty of the cataract, the com})rehensi^•e grouping here pre- sented will linger in the mind of a ti'ue lover of the beautiful, promi- nent among the "pictures that hang on memory's wall." The through passengers, who make no tarry at the Falls, remain in the cars until the train arrives at Suspension Bridge, two miles below, this arrangement continuing for the present season, until the comple- tion of the new bridge now in process of erection by the Michigan Cen- tral C'Ompany. When this structure is completed, the trains will cross the river in full view of the Falls. This, in addition to the view now obtained from the train, will ])rove a strong attraction to through trav- elers, inducing them to come by this route.. 24 CHICA(iO TO THE SEA. NIAGARA FALLS, ONTARIO. This village, formerly known as Clifton, extends along the Canada shore of Niagara River, from near the Falls to the railroad sus})ension bridge. The tourist who wishes to ins2)ect the cataract first from the Canada side, leaves the train at Magara Falls station ; and slunild he choose to find a temporary abiding place on the Canada side, he will find several well-kept hotels, at prices varying according to accommo- AMERICAN FALL, As rSEEN FKUM CANADA SIDE. dations desired. The largest and most commodious of these is the Clifton House, which has been open to the public for more than forty years, and has established a reputation as in all respects a lirst-class house. The Prospect House is almost on the very verge of the Falls, being located at Table Rock, and commands a tine view. The house has an excellent reputation, its j)atrons being among the most cele- brated of the visitors, both from America and abroad. The Brunswick, located a little farther down the bank than the house just mentioned, — ^just far enough, the proprietor claims, to be fi'ee from the annoyance of mist and spray, biit sufficiently near to give a beautiful prospect from its windows and balconies, — furnishes a pleasant stopping place, less pretentious than some of its larger rivals, but with all its appointments complete, and well calculated to promote the comfort of its patrons. It can take good care of large or small parties, and is indeed a desirable stop[)ing place for those who wish to tarry for a single day, or for a longer jjeriod, the terms being moderate and the fare excellent. NIAGARA FALLS. 25 Other houses there are on this side, of which the limits of this work forbid even a mention. Indeed, the provisions for the care of tourists indicate that for a considerable portion of the year at least, that con- stitutes by far the largest business of the dwellers in the vicinity. The Canada shore can claim one point over all other localities in the vicinity of the Falls, in being the only place where a good view of TAJ3LE UOCK. the cataract can be had -without the payment of toll or admittance fees. The eft'ort now being made to create a public park on the ]!^ew York shore, and thus secure similar piivileges in the " land of the free," is attracting much attention from tourists. Its results ai-e as yet con- jectural, but so much has the value of the property become enhanced by the very practices which this plan proposes to abolish, it seems now like a great undertaking to accomplish what a few years ago would have been much more easily brought about. There are opportunities, however, to pay fees on the Canada side, and to receive an equivalent in return. A staircase leading to the foot of the Horseshoe Fall, permits a tine view from l;)elow, and in addition 26 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. a visit to the cavernous recess under Table Rock and Horseshoe Fall. For the latter excursion, watei-proof suits and the services of a guide are necessary, and the experience is one long to be remembered. TABLE ROCK. Table Rock itself is an object of much curiosity. It is an overhang- ing clitf, extending along the bank to the very junction with the Horse- shoe Fall. Its shape and dimensions have been several times changed within the memory and observation of the present generation, and "the oldest inhabitants " remember it as projecting far beyond its present limits. In July, 1818, a mass some thirty or forty feet wide, and about one hundred and sixty feet in length, fell into the bed of the river. In December, 1828, three sections, comprising a very large portion of the overhanging clitf, and extending to the verge of the Horseshoe Fall, broke otl' and fell with a terrible crash. In the slim- mer of 1829, another large mass separated and fell, and in June, 18.50, still another, the latter about 60 feet wide by. 200 long. The precipice still hangs far out over the perpendicular, and with these losses in view, the reader can readily imagine its appearance before the action of the elements had robbed it of so much that made it celebrated. Several other objects of interest are to be seen on the Canada side, which Avill be mentioned further on in these pages, and we will now proceed to a description of the principal objects of interest immediately connected with the Falls. In crossing the river to the American shore, the visitor has a choice of two methods. He may descend the bank and cross by the ferry, or may go over the New Suspension Bridge. If intending to return, he will do well to go over by the bridge and i-e-cross by the ferry. THE NEW SUSPENSION BRIDGE. This structure, although opened to the public in 1869, is still called the new bridge, to distinguish it from its elder brother, two miles below. Previous to the construction of the New York and Brooklyn bridge, it was the longest suspension bridge in the world, its roadway being 1,300 feet in length, and its cables 1,800 feet long. It is 190 feet above the river, being suspended from two towers, each 100 feet in height. Access may be had to the interior of the towers, and very tine views are obtained from their summits. From the bridge itself a magnificent view of the Falls may be had, the finest, in fact, to be secured from any one point, the entii-e line of the cataract being embraced in a single glance, and in closer proximity than is possible elsewhere, except from below. The view down the river is also a fine one, comprising the deep gorge through which the stream flows, with its precipitous banks on either hand, and tlie Rail- road Suspension Bridge in the distance. The strength of the new bridge is estimated by the engineers as NIAGARA PALLS. 27 thirteen times greater than sntHcient to bear any weight that can pos- sibly be phxced npon it. The year of its completion it was subjected to the sevei-est gale it has ever had to withstand, and safely and success- fnlly "weathered the blast." All fears, therefore, as to its security in ordinary weathei-, are entirely groundless. VIEW OF THE FALLS FKOM THE FERRT. Reaching the American shore by this method of crossing, the first point of intei-est is PROSPECT PARK. Depositing the fee of 2o cents at the toll-gate, we are soon within the privileged domain. The grounds are what were foi'merly known as the "Ferry Grove" and "Point View," and previous to their improvement were free to the public. The Company who purchased them, however, have provided an almost endless variety of artificial adjuncts to render the place attractive, and the small fee exacted for admission is not, therefore, an unreasonable one. At the verge of the Ameiican Fall, they have constructed a solid wall at what is now called " Prospect Point," extending it all along the brink of the precipice, thus rendering secure from accident the place where the finest view of the Fall can be obtained. Looking uja the stream, the foaming rapids, white-ci*ested and tumultuous, greet the vision in a continuous stretch, until water and sky seem to blend. In 28 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. the immediate foreground is the American Fall, its waters almost in reach of the outstretched hand. Directly across the stream are Luna and Goat Islands, while sweeping away to the right in a grand curve, is the Horseshoe Fall. The American Fall is year by year assuming the horseshoe form, by the wearing away of the clifi" in the center, the indentation in the front line of the Fall Ijeing quite prominently visible from Prospect Point, although less noticeable from a front view. The visitor who may be disposed to carry away a souvenir of this locality will find a skilHul photographer in readiness to make pictures, stereoscopic or otherwise, of from one to twenty ])ersons, with both the American and the Horseshoe Fall as a background. Near the Point is located a bazaar for the sale of curiosities, in itself a museum well worthy of a visit, whether to purchase be the in- tention, or only to inspect the ai'ticles exposed for sale. The Ferry House is near the center of the Park, and is the upper terminal station of the INCLINED PLANE RAILWAY. A tunnel has been cut from the clifl' to the margin of the river, at an angle of about thirty degrees, and within it is built the railway, by the side of which is a Hight of stairs, numbering 290 steps. The cars are raised and lowered by machinery, operated by a tui'bine wheel, and are so arranged that one ascends while the other descends. This rail- way has been in successful operation, without a castialty, for nearly forty years. The timid, however, to whom the descent appears peril- ous, have the choice of the stairway for reaching the river, and many prefer to trust their own limbs in the climb, but are generally glad to avail themselves of the car in returning. At the foot of the stairs, a commodious building has been erected, from which a view of the Falls from below may be had through windows which protect the visitor from the spray. A nearer view may be obtained by donning a water- jjroof suit, for which facilities are provided in the dressing-rooms, and, with a trusty guide, taking a promenade upon " HuiTicane Bridge," at the very foot of the American Fall, completing the trip by going be- hind the cataract itself, which may be done in safety, and constitutes a novel experience. The cavernous recess behind the curtain of falling water extends neai'ly to the center of the Fall, and is tilled with the dashing spray which pei-petually rises from the cauldron of waters. The roar of the cataract echoes and re-echoes within this chamber, the eftect being heightened by the compression of the air ; and the combined etfect upon the senses as one thus stands as it were within the very grasp of Nature's most powerful forces, serves to show the contrast between puny man and his omnipotent Creator. Between the foot of the Inclined Plane and the Canada shore, a line of ferry boats has been established, aifording a safe and pleasant method of transit between those points, and a view of the Falls from the river level. The best time for this trip is early in the morning or NIAGARA FALLS. 29 an hour or two before sunset, and the impressions made upon the mind in connection with it, will be among the most lasting of all the recollec- tions of Niagara. Returning to the Park by the stairway or the car, as the traveler may elect, we continue our examination of the objects of interest to be found within its limits. Its shady groves and pleasant walks, rem- nants of the natural forest improved by the hand of art, furnish delightful resting places or promenades ; and its Art Gallery, Concert Hall, Pavilion, and other provisions for entertainment, serve to engage the attention of the visitor, and make pleasant the hours that pass while within the Park. ELECTRIC ILLUMINATION. One of the most enjoyable features of the visit to Prospect Park is that provided for the hours of evening. The illumination of the Falls and fountains by the electric light is a pleasing spectacle, and well worthy of a tarry to see. The electricity for the purpose is developed by one of the largest sized dynamo machines, kept in operation by a powerful turbine wheel, located in the Ferry building, the water-jwwer supplied by a canal. The brilliant light thus produced is concentrated upon the Falls and Rajiids, both in clear white and with prismatic etiects, rendering them even more beautiful by night than in the full liglit of day. An arrangement of fountains in which the waters are made to assume a vai-iety of shapes, with revolving wheels and jets of spray, the whole illuminated with shifting lights of all colors, constitutes an exhibition amply rewarding a long journey to behold. The observer is fascinated by the ever-changing colors and gorgeous etiects, more l)eau- tiful than any pyrotechnic display, which it very much resembles, only "with intensitied brilliancy of coloring, and more enduring in form. GOAT ISLAND. Passing out at the g:ite of Prospect P;irk, a short walk brings us to the toll-house of Goat Island, at the end of the bridge leading across to the group of islands which divide the cataract into its two distinctive pnrts. The largest of these bears the above name, which was given to it from a trivial circumstance, illustrating how easily a nickname or title becomes fastejied "to stay" with a few repetitions, eveii from an unauthorized soiirce. More than a century ago, a Mr. John Stedman placed some goats oii the upper end of the Island, and thi-ough neglect they were suiFei-ed to remain uncored for during the winter, and died from exposure. Hence the name, which adheres to it, in preference to its authorized name of ''Iris Island." The gi-oup comprises, in all, some seventeen islands, large and small, covering about sixty acres. The property belongs to the estate of the late Judge Porter, to whom it was ceded by the State of New York in 1818. Its possession at that time was regarded as of little 30 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. consequence, and the attempt to jiut a bridge across was deemed fool- hardiness ; but it is said that an ofler of a million and a half dollars has recently been refused for the estate. The first bridge was a frail structure, and was soon carried away. It was replaced by a stronger one, which stood from 1818 to 1856, when it was removed, and the present elegant structure substituted. The foundations are heavy oaken cribs, tilled with stone and plated with iron. The bridge itself is of iron, in four arches, each of ninety GOAT-ISLAND BRIDGE. feet span, making a total length of three hundred and sixty feet. Its width is twenty-seven feet, comprising a double carriageway, with foot- way on either side. The bridge is a favorite [)lace from which to view the Ra2:)ids, as the waters near the precipice below. The lirst island of the group is Bath Island, which is utilized as the site of manufacturing enterprise, a large paper-mill occupying a posi- tion to command some portion of the splendid water-power so idly expending itself for naught. Crossing by a bridge of a single span to Goat Island, we find ourselves in a spot where Nature has been com- paratively undisturbed. The forest remains almost in its prime\-al simplicity, which fact renders this a most charming and popular resort. Indeed, a visit to Niagara would be sadly incom])lete were Goat Island and its attractions to be omitted. Ascending a slight rise from the bridge, the road leads into a shady forest, and branches in three directions. The best method of visiting the points of interest is to first turn to the right, and follow the road or path to the foot of the Island, emerging from the forest near the stairwav and bridge leading to NIAGARA FALLS. 31 LUNA ISLAND. Tliis small but ]tleasant little islet divides the American Fall into two sections, the stream over wliicli we cross from Goat Island consti- tuting what is known as the Center Fall, beneath which is the Cave of the Winds. The island lies low, and the visitor may touch the water with the hand. The vei'ge was formerly unguarded, l3ut an iron i-ailing now prevents a repetition of the melancholy accident that occurred here on the 21st of June, 1849, when the family of Mi-. Deforest, of Buf- falo, in company with a friend, Mr. Chai-les Addington, were visiting the scene. The latter, playfully catching xip Annette, the little daughter of Mr. Deforest, said, *' I am going to throw you in." With a sudden impulse, the child sprang from his arms into the water. Horrified at the result of his pleasantry, Mr. Addington sprang after her, and both were immediately carried over the Falls. The mangled remains of the child were recovered the same day, in the Cave of the Winds, and the body of the unfortunate voimg man a few days later. Returning to Goat Island, a short walk brings us to the building used as the dressing-room in which to prepare for a visit to the "CAVE OF THE WINDS." This trip is made by ladies as well as gentlemen, water-pi-oof suits being provided for any who wish to explore the famous cavern, and experienced guides are in readiness to accompany the visitor. The descent to the foot of the clitt" is here made without the aid of machin- ery, by means of a spiral staircase known as "BIDDLE'S STAIRS." This structure takes its name from the Hon. Nicholas Biddle, the well-known president of the United States Bank, at whose expense the enterprise of biiilding it was carried out in 1829. The bank at this place is 185 feet high. Part of this descent is accomplished by an open stairway, of ordinary inclination, and the remainder by the per- pendicular shaft or tower, which is 8U feet high, the whole comprising 147 steps. From the foot of the tower, a pathway to the right, under the shadow of the overhanging clifi", leads to the Center Fall, which consti- tutes the aqueous curtain of "Coins' Cavern." A secure stairway leads to the entrance of the Cave, and the visitor passes under the Fall, into the stormy recess made in the solid rock. The Cavern de- rives its name from the peculiar atmospheric effects produced by the action of the falling water, the compression of the air establishing a perpetual tempest, like that in which ^olus, the god of the wind, is said to dwell. The Cave is 100 feet high by 100 deep and 160 long, and its exist- ence is due to the action of the waters upon the shale, leaving the more solid limestone rock overhanging. fefeSf J&ri^^i^A^ rXDER THE CATARACT. NIAGARA PALLS. 33 As one of the many novel experiences to be met in a visit to Niagara, the trip through this Cave will leave a lasting impression upon the memory. The sensations which wind and storm will always produce are here intensified by the novelty of the surroundings, and the realization of the feet that the forces of Nature are perpetually ac- complishing here what they occasionally produce in the outer world. Add to this the s])ice of peisonal risk, really less than it seems to he, and the recollections of the occasion will be vivid and enduring. From the foot of the stairway, another path leads to the river in front, and still another toward the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall. The latter is but little used, and is not kept in good condition. From a scadblding 100 feet high, erected near the stairway in 1829, Sam Patch made his famous leap into the river, successfully accomplishing a feat, the repetition of which at Genessee Falls, shortly after, cost him his life. Returning to the bank above, and continuing the walk along the brink, the next interesting jioint of observation is TERRAPIN BRIDGE AND ROCK. A staii'way leads down to the Bridge, which crosses over to the Rock where for forty years the well-known Terrapin Tower constituted a landmark to be seen from all directions, standing as it did at the very verge of the Fa*lls. The rock itself furnishes a favorable outlook, aflbrding a near view of the Horseshoe Fall. The bridge is liable to be slippery from the action of the spray, and care should be exercised to avoid accident. In the winter of lo52, a gentleman while in the act of crossing fell into the stream, and was carried to the very verge of the Fall. By a remarkably fortunate circumstance, he lodged be- tween two I'ocks, when he was discovered by some of the citizens, who rescued him by life lines, which he succeeded in fastening around his body. He was cariied to a hotel, and remained speechless for several hoiirs, so great was the shock to his nervotts system. THE CANADIAN OR HORSESHOE FALL, Which is here seen to the V)est advantage, is about 1-44- rods wide, and 158 feet high. The depth of the water in the center is estimated at 20 feet. An experiment to demonstrate the depth was made in 1827. An tinseaworthy vessel, drawing 18 feet of water, increased by leakage to more than 20 feet, was sent over the Falls, and cleared the ledge without touching. The name " Horseshoe " is hardly true to the present shape, which is now more nearly rectangidar. The horseshoe curve has been marred by the falling of i)ortions of the cliff at various times, tmtil its original symmetry hsis neai-ly departed. The precipice near the Teri-apin Tower has sutiered loss from this cause, until it was regarded as unsafe to continue the use of the Tower, and it was removed in 1873. 34 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. Along the south shore of the island, the walk or drive toward the east keeps in view the rapids, and leads ns next to the group known as the THREE SISTER ISLANDS. These are connected with Goat Island and with one another by three handsome bridges, afibrding a magnificent view of the Rapids, the best, in fact, to be had from any point of observation. The scene presented from the outer island, as you gaze up the river, upon the 'W' ^ TERRAPIN TOWER.— REMOVED IN 18^3 vast expanse of foaming, turbulent water, seemingly threatening to overwhelm you and the ground on which you stand, and yet dividing as it passes you, or abating its fury as it reaches the shore at your feet, is one to fill the soul with admiration and awe, as, perhaps, no other view can do. The outlook from the bridges also awakens peculiar emotions. Standing only a few feet above the rapidly coursing torrent as it i^asses beneath you, the thought comes to the mind that here at least, "there is but a step betwixt time and eternity." The fascina- tion increases as the gaze is prolonged, and the mind which cannot be NIAGARA FALLS. 35 impressed with the sublimity of the scene, must be, like the soul devoid of music, " tit for treason, stratagem, and sjjoils." At the head of Goat Island, a little farther uj) the river, the view- is quite exjiansive, commanding both banks of the stream, and the islands in the channel. Beginning at the right, the site of Fort Schlos- ser is seen about a mile away, marked by a small white building and a very large chimney. The name is associated with border history, the fort having been built by the French, afterward ceded to the English, and occupied as a military station by G^'aptain 8chlosser, from whom its later name was derived, the French having given it the title of Little Fort. NAVY ISLAND, Lying in the channel which sweeps around Grand Island on the Canada side, has an area of over three hundred acres, and is associated with Fort Schlosser in the annals of border history, having been made the rendezvous of the "Patriots " in the "Rebellion " of 18-37, under the leadership of McKenzie, who, with about twenty-five or thirty follow- ers, became disatiected with the Canadian authorities, and planted their standard here as a rallying-] )oint. The Anierican steamer Caroline, a small boat supposed to be in the service of the "Rebels," was chartered to run between the islands and the American shore. Friday, Dec. 29, 1837, she entered upon her work of "ferriage," and after a profitable day's work was moved to the wliarf at Schlosser's Landing. The same night, a deta^chment of British soldiers, under command of Capt. Drew, seized her, set her on fire, and the little steamer went down the stream in flames, and plunged over the Canadian Fall. The crew, and some of the " patriots " who were on board, escaped to the shore, with the exception of one man, Durfee, who was killed \>y a pistol shot in at- tempting to escape. GRAND ISLAND, The largest in the Eiver Niagara, is twelve miles in length, its breadth varying from two to seven miles. Its soil, unlike that of the islands nearer the cataract, is very fertile, and much of it is under ciiltivation. Its historic annals are less interesting than those just mentioned, although one entei'prise has a monumental reminder, still in a good state of j)reservation. A gentleman who in the current vernacular of to-day would doubtless be entitled a "crank," conceived the project of making this island a place of refuge for the scattered tribes of Israel. In 182.5 he laid the corner-stone of the " City of Ararat," and erected a monument, with imposing ceremonies. The latter still serves to i"e- mind the visitor that " cranks " are not original with the present generation. At the foot of Grand Island is a smaller one, of al)Out three hun- dred acres, called Buckhorn Island. The channel between them is called " Burnt Ship Bay," from the destruction of two armed supply 36 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. vessels by the Fi-ench garrison at Sclilosser, near the close of the French war of 1759, to prevent their acquisition by the English. They were brought to this bay, and set on hi-e, and the circumstance is thus com- memorated Vjy the name of the bay. Corner's Island, Gill Creek Island and Grass Island, all of them small, lie near the American shore, and are important, commercially or historically. FATHER IIENXEPIX'S SKETCH OF THE FALLS. The first white man who saw the Falls, of whom we have any ac- count, was Father Hennepin, the noted explorer. We present above a facsimile of the sketch made by him, representing the Falls as they were 200 years ago. We also give his extravagant description, pre- serving the orthography and the quaint style in which it was written : — " Betwixt the Lake Ontario and Erie, there is a vaft and prodig- ious Cadence of Water which falls down after a furprizing and afton- ifhing manner, infomuch that the Univerfe does not afford its Parallel. 'Tis true, Italy and Suedelatid boaft of fome fuch Things; but we may well fay they are but forry Patterns, when compar'd to this of which we now fpeak. At the foot of this horrible Precipice, we meet with the River Niagara, which is not above a quarter of a League broad, but is wonderfully deep in fome places. It is fo rapid above this Defcent, that it violently hurries down the wild Beafts NIAGARA FALLS. 37 while endeavoring to pafs it to feed on tlie other fide, they not being able to withftand the force of its Current, which inevitably cafts them headlong above Six hundred foot high. "This wonderful Downfal is compounded of two great Crofs- ftreams of Water, and two Falls, with an Ifle Hoping along the middle of it. The Waters which fall from this horrible Precipice, do foam and boyl after the moft hideous manner imaginable, making an out- rageous Noife, more terrible than that of Thunder ; for when the Wind blows out of the South, their difmal roaring may be heard more than Fifteen Leagues off. " The River Niagara having thrown it felf down this incredible Precepice, continues its impetuous courfe for two Leagues together, to the great Rock above-mention'd, with an inexpreffible rapidity: But having paft that, its impetuofity relents, gliding along more gently for other two Leagues, till it arrive at the Lake Ontario or Frontenac. " Any Bark or greater Veffel may pafs from the Fort to the foot of this huge Rock above-mention'd. This Rock lies to the Weftward, and is cut off from the Land by the River Niagara, about two Leagues farther down than the great Fall ; for which two Leagues the People are oblig'd to tranfport their Goods over-land ; but the way is very good ; and the Trees are but itw, chiefly Firrs and Oaks. " From the great Fall unto this Rock which is to the Weft of the River, the two Brinks of it are fo prodigious high, that it would make one tremble to look fteadily upon the Water, rolling along with a rapidity not to be imagin'd. Were it not for this vaft Catara6l, which interrupts Navigation, they might fail with Barks or greater Veffels, more than Four hundred and fifty Leagues, croffing the Lake of Hiirons, and reaching even to the farther end of the Lake Illinois ; which two Lakes we may eafily fay are little Seas of frefh Water." RETROCESSION OF THE FALLS. The following extracts from an article written by Prof. Tyndall will be of hiterest in this connection : — "The fact that in historic times, even within the memory of man, the Fall has sensibly receded, prompts the question, How far has this recession gone? At what point did the ledge which thus continually creeps backward begin its retrograde course '? To minds disciplined in such researches the answer has been and will be, At the precipitous de- clivity which crosses the Niagara from Lewiston on the American to Queenston on the Canadian side. Over this traverse baxrier the affluents of all upper lakes once poured their waters, and here the work of erosion began. The dam, moreover, was demonsti'ably of sufficient height to cause the river above it to submerge Goat Island, and this would perfectly account for the finding by Mr. Hall, Sir Charles Lyell, and others, in the sand and gravel of the island, the same fiuviatile shells as are now found in the Niagai'a River higher up. 38 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. It woiikl also account foi' those deposits along the sides of the river, the discovery of which enabled I^yell, Hall, and Ramsay to reduce to demonstration the popular belief that the Niagara once flowed through a shallow valley. " The physics of the problem of excavation, which I made clear to my mind before quitting iSTiagara, are revealed Vjy a close inspection of the pi'esent Horseshoe Fall. Here we see evidently thai the great- est weight of water bends over the very apex of the Horseshoe. In a passage in his excellent chapter on Niagara Falls, Mr. Hall alludes to this fact. Here we have the most copious and the most violent whirl- ing of the shattered liquid ; here the most jjowerful eddies recoil against the shale. From this portion of the Fall, indeed, the spray sometimes rises without solution of continuity to the region of clouds, becoming gradually more attenuated, and passing Anally through the condition of triie cloud into invisible vapor, which is sometimes re-pre- cipitated higher up. All the phenomena point distinctly to the center of the river as the place of the greatest mechanical energy, and from the center the vigor of the Fall gradually dies away toward the sides. The horseshoe form, with the concavity facing downward, is an obvious and necessary consequence of this action. Right along the middle of the river the apex of the curve pushes its way backward, cutting along the center a deep and comparatively narrow groove, and draining fhe sides as it passes them. Hence the x"ema]-kable discrepancy between the widths of the Niagara above and below the Horseshoe. All along its course, from Lewiston Heights to the present position, the form of the Fall was probably that of a horseshoe ; for this is merely the ex- pression of the greater depth, and consequently greater excavating power, of the center of the river. The gorge, moreover, varies in width as the depth of the center of the ancient river varied, being nar- rowest where that depth was greatest. "The vast comparative erosive energy of the Horseshoe Fall comes strikingly into view when it and the American Fall are compared to- gether. The American bi-anch of the upper river is cut at a right angle by the gorge of the Niagara. Here the Horseshoe Fall was the real excavator. It cut the rock, and formed the precipice over which the American Fall tumbles. But since its foj-mation the ei"osive action of the American Fall has been almost nil, while the Horseshoe has cut its way for five hundred yards across the end of Goat Island, and is now doubling back to excavate a channel parallel to the length of the island. This point, I have just learned, has not escaped the acute ob- servation of Prof. Ramsay. The river bends ; the Horseshoe imme- diately accommodates itself to the bending, and will follow implicitly the direction of the deepest water in the upper stream. The flexibility of the gorge, if I may use the term, is detei-mined by the flexibility of the river channel above it. Were the Niagara above the Fall sinuous, the gorge woiild immediately follow its sinuosities. Once suggested, no douVjt geographers will be able to point out many examples of this NIAGARA FALLS. 39 action. The Zambesi is thought to i)resent a great ditiiculty to the erosion theory, because of the sinuosity of the chasm below the Victoria Falls. But assuming the basalt to be of tolerably uniform texture, had the river been examined before the formation of this sinuous channel, the present zigzag course of the gorge below the Fall could, I am pur- suaded, have been predicted, while the sounding of the present river would enable us to predict the course to be pursued by the erosion in the future. "But not only has the Niagara Kiver cut the gorge — it has carried away the chips of its own workshop. The shale being prol)ably crum- bled, is easily carried away. But at the base of the Fall we find the huge boulders already described, and by some means or other these are removed down the river. The ice which tills the gorge in winter, and which grapples with tlie boulders, has been regarded as the transport- ing agent. Probably it is so to some extent. But erosion acts with- out ceasing on the abutting points of the boulder, thus withdrawing their support, and urging them down the river. Solution also does its portion of the work. That solid matter is carried down is proved by the difference of depth between the Niagara Biver and Lake Ontario, where the river enters it. The depth falls from seventy-two feet to twenty feet, in consequence of the deposition of solid matter caused by the diminished motion of the river. Near the mouth of the aorse at Queenston, tlie depth, according to the Admiralty Chart, is 180 feet; well within the gorge, it is 132 feet." SUSPENSION BRIDGE. Two miles below the Falls, the river is spanned by the structure so widely known by the above name. The banks are here very precipi- tous, and the river deep and rapid, and the erection of piers in the stream being an impossibility, the structure is suspended from cables, passing over towers of solid masonry. The following statistics will be of interest to those of our readers who revel in figures : — Length of span from center to center of towers Height of tower above rock on the American side " " " " " Canada side " " " floor of railway " track above water. ... Niimber of wii-e cables ... Diameter of each cable Number of No. 9 wires in each cal)le . 3,659 L^ltimate aggregate strength of cables 12,400 tons. Weight of superstructure . . 800 " •' " and maximum loads 1,250 " Maximum weight the cable and stays will support 7,309 " The bridge is a " two-story " affair, the upper part being used for the railway, and the lower for carriages and foot passengers. 822 feet. 88 a 78 a 60 a 258 a 4 " lOJ r in. NIA(iARA FALLS. 41 WHIRLPOOL RAPIDS. The narrowing of tlie clumnel in the vicinity of the Suspension Bridge greatly accelerates the cnrrent, and the tremendous force with which it rushes through the gorge from this point to the " Whirlpool," throws the water into violent commotion. When it is considered that the calculated weight of the water that passes over the Falls every hour is 100,000,000 tons, and that this volume of water must find its way through a channel only about 300 feet wide, the terrific force with which it rushes along may be at least jiartially understood. Although WIIIKLPOUL AND HAi'ID.-- the depth of the stream is here estimated at 250 feet, the force of the current is such as to elevate the water from ten to forty feet above its natural level. At the Whirlpool, the river takes a sharj) tiu-n almost at a right angle, circling around in the cauldron which it seems to have excavated for itself, and finally making its exit through a narrow gorge, the vast body of water no doubt passing out far below the surface, in a channel of immense depth. The Whirlpool may be seen to advantage from eithei- tlie Canadian or the Amei'ican side. At the latter, the approach is through the grounds of De Veaux College, the fee for admission going to the funds of the institiition. On the Canada side, extensive preparations have lieen made for the accommodation of visitors by the Whirlpool Rapids Park Company. A river-side walk has been constructed, partially by excavation from the side of the clifi", and a delightful park on the bank of the river, with plenty of trees and shrubbery, renders a promenade on this 42 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. shore very attractive. An inclined railway, to facilitate the journey between the iipper and lower levels, has been constructed, and equipped with cars, operating in a novel and ingenious manner. The cars have tanks below the seats ; these tanks are tilled with water from a spring at the back of the entrance building, by means of a pipe leading into the tank. 50 lbs. weight of water is sufficient to overcome the balance of the cars, and to carry tlie loaded car to the foot of the railway, the liglit one being simultaneously drawn to the top by the same j)Ower. Formerly these cars were operated by steam-power, but the present is by far the safest and most economical plan, there being no machinery to get out of order, no danger of damage from bursting of boiler, etc., the entire apparatus necessary being the check or governor, by whicli the person in charge can i-egulate or stop the speed of the car with per- fect ease. These cars take 12 passengers each ; the tanks are capable of containing 2,800 lbs. of water. As they reach the foot of the in- cline, a bolt or pin removes the fastening to the discharge pipe and discharges the water, thus leaA'ing the car in i-eadiness for its next ascent, which is made in aboiit one and a half minutes. The total length of the i-ailroad is 285 feet. At the water's edge, a photographic studio is located, thus giving to all an opportunity of being portrayed with the Whirlpool Eapids in the backgrounds. Returning again to the Falls, we hnd on the Canada side several points of interest, not yet considered in these pages. At Table Rock an opportunity is afibrded of visiting the Museum, a collection of nat- ural curiosities, works of art, etc., well worthy of a visit. A zoological garden is kept in connection, and an observatory affords a good outlook from a lofty stand-point. THE BURNING SPRING. About a mile above the Falls, reached by a ])leasant diive or walk, across Cedar Island, in view of the Rapids, is the natural curiosity known as the Burning S})ring, the waters of which are highly charged wdth sul[)huretted hydrogen, which burns with a pale Idue Hame when ignited. This is supposed to have its origin in a coal formation, l)e- lieved by some to be extensive, and worthy of mining. The proprietor, however, has not sufficient faith in the feasibility of the scheme to \m- dertake it. Clark Hill Islands, a group of live, which are crossed in the approach to the burning spring, are in the midst of the rapids, and a line carriage drive extends along their outer shores, affording a good view of the current, which is here very rapid. These islands are con- nected with the main land by two sus])ension bridges, which have been named "Castor" and "Pollux." On Cedar Island, near the Horseshoe Falls, a Pagoda has been erected, over 80 feet in height, from which a magnificent view can be had. It is a noticeable landmaik from all points in the vicinity of the Falls. NIAGARA FALLS. 43 LUNDY'S LANE BATTLE FIELD. As a spot of no little historical interest, the scene of the decisive battle between the English and American foi-ces, July 25, 1814, re- ceives many Adsitors, of all nationalities. The ground is about a mile and a half due west from the Falls, near the village of Drummondville, named in honor of Gen. Druininond, who commanded the British forces in the engagement. Two towers have been erected to niark the spot, and from their summits a good view is had of the surrounding country. It was the writer's good fortune, on the occasion of his first visit to the scene, some years ago, to listen to a description of the battle from the lips of a surviving participant, who wore the British uniform on the occasion, but who gave the American forces great credit for gal- lantry in the tight. The total loss, in killed and wounded, was about eighteen hundred men. DEVIL'S HOLE. About half a mile below the Whirlpool, on the Ameidcan side, a gloomy cavern in tlie bank has received the above title. It is about XIAGAKA RIVEK BELOW THE WHIRLPOOL. one hundred feet in depth, and from its forbidding aspect might well be regarded as the property of his Satanic majesty. Tradition makes this locality the scene of the massacre of the English supply train and es- cort in 17(5.3, by the Seneca Indians, instigated by the French traders. The train was on its way from Fort Niagara to Fort Schlosser, and only three of its number escaped alive, while of the escort only eight returned to Fort Niagara. Much that would be of interest to the reader might be written con- cerning the Falls and the surroundings, but we have already devoted a latg^' amount of space to the subject, and must close with a few 44 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. necessary particulars. For the convenience of those who may need the facts, we tabulate the rates of toll, carriage hire, etc., the latter being the rate fixed by law as permissible. It may be well to add, however, that most of the drivers are wiling to make a special rate, considerably lower than those given, and, as previously remarked, this should be expressly agreed upon before starting out, including an understanding as to the payment of the tolls and gate fees. RATES OF TOLL. Goat Island | .50 Cave of the Winds 1.00 Prospect Park _ .2.5 Inclined Railway .25 Shadow of the Rock 1.00 New Suspension Bridge 25 Ferry . 25 Behind Sheet of Water (Table Rock) 1 .00 Burning Spring .50 Railway Bridge, over and back .50 Whirlpool Rapids .50 Whirlpool - . .50 RATES OF FARE ALLOWED BY LAW, FOR CARRIAGE HIRE WHERE NO EXPRESS CONTRACT IS MADE THEREFOR. For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from one place to another in the village, 50 cents. Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 25 cents. For carrying one passenger and ordinary baggage from any point in this village to any point in the village of Suspension Bridge, 1 dollar. Each additional passenger and ordinary baggage, 50 cents. Each additional piece of baggage other than ordinary baggage, 12 cents. Children under 3 years of age, free. Over 3 years and under 1 4 years, half price. Ordinary baggage is defined to be 1 trunk and 1 bag, hat or band- box, or other small parcel. For carrying one or more passengers, in the same carriage, from any point in this village to any point within 5 miles of the limits of the village, at the rate of $1.50 for each hour occupied, except that in every instance where such carriage shall be drawn by a single horse, the fare therefor shall be at the rate of 1 dollar for each hour occupied. Hotels. — Although a little out of its natural connection, this subject seems to demand at least a paragraph. The constant influx of visitors, especially during the summer months has created a demand for hotel accommodations at Niagara, ■which has been met in the erection of such houses as the Cataract, International, Spencer, Niagara, Kaltenbach, Goat Island, and a multitude of others, of various grades of excellence, both at the Falls and Suspension Bridge. ^-^( •>THE ST. LAWREHCE RIVE{|,<^ 4,i^ HE route to the sea via the St. Lawrence Eiver liaving become a great favorite with summer tourists, we give in this connection a descrip- tion of some of its principal attractions. The majestic river, whose channel is the outlet for all the waters of the great chain of inland seas, runs in a general northeasterly direction, from Lake Ontario to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, through a country full of objects of interest to the traveler and sight-seer, and Isy its navi- gability becomes the medium by which they may be reached. Lt iMiig Niagara Falls in tlie evening, sleeping cars are luu, L'lu. New York C^entral, Rome, Watertown it Ogdens- burg, and Utica oth up and down the river and across the Bay to Westminster Park. The view is still further ex- 50 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. panded by ascending the lofty tower which adorns the center of the structiire, rising 160 feet above the foundation, and surmounted with a balcony, affording an outlook of surpassing loveliness and grandeur. The hotel is the largest on the river, and will accommodate 700 guests. Leaving Alexandria Bay, we are now in the midst of the most fashionable part of the Thousand Island group. The residences are elegant in style of architecture and general appointments, some of them I THOUSAND ISLAND HOUSE, ALEXANDRIA BAT. being very costly, theii' wealthy proprietors having lavished expendi- ture upon them with unstinted hand. The captain will call many of them by name, the islands having received their titles mostly from their present owners and occupants, and are somewhat fanciful and often appropriate. For instance " Fairy liand " seems a fitting abode for elfin sprites, although equally attractive to humanity. Arcadia, Sport Island, Summerland, Manhattan, Imperial, Welcome, Cozy, THE ST. LA^yRENCE RIVER. 51 Nobl)y, and a host of other cognomens, have been be.stowe(l upon the charming spots where taste, elegance, and refinement are exhibited, as art has imited with natnre in making them veritabk; summer para- dises, where, let us hope, no serpent's trail may mar the happiness of their possessors. The last of the Thousand Islands are called the Three Sisters, from their resemblance and proximity to each other. They are nearly op}»o- site Brockville on the Canada shore and Morristown on the New York side, the two towns being directly oj^posite each other, the former the terminus of the Canadian Pacific Railway, and the latter of the Utiea it Black River Railroad, needing only a bridge, with these islands as resting places for the abutments, to unite the two roads in one contin- uous line. Brockville, named in honor of General Brock, is called the " Queen City of the St. Lawx-ence," and there is something regal in its appearance to warrant the bestowment of the title. Its glittering towers and church spires give ,an appearance of splendor, which the tourist will observe as a peculiarity of the Canadian cities to be seen in his trip, the metal with which they are covered retaining its brightness in a, remarkable degree, owing to the purity and dryness of the atmos- phere. OGDENSBURG AND PRESCOTT. These two cities, like those last mentioned, are opposite each other, and are both important points. Ogdensburg is the terminus of the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg, the Utica & Black River, and Og- densburg it Lake Champlain Railroads, the two former coming from the West and the latter from the East. The city lies on both sides of the Oswegatchie Ri\'er, at its junction with the St. Lawrence. On ac- count of its beautiful foliage, it has been appropriately entitled Maple City. Its extensive river front, with its railroad facilities, gives it a de- cided advantage as a grain port. Large elevators and warehouses for the ti-anshipment of grain and other freight from the lake steamers are among the important enterprises of the place. The direct route to the Adirondacks from Ogdensburg is via the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain Railroad, on the line of which is also located the recently discovered but already famous Chateaugay Chasm. As the western section of the all-rail line from Ogdensburg to Portland, this railroad is also assuming considerable importance as a tourist route to the White Mountains and other resorts, and will receive due notice in a separate chapter. Prescott, on the oitposite bank of the St. Lawrence, is connected with Ogdensburg by ferry, the boats being of sufficient capacity to transfer cars, and making regular trips. The railroad interests of this place are concentrated in the Grand Trunk and the St. Lawrence & Ottawa division of the Canadian Pacific. Massena Landing, where passengers destined for Massena Springs go ashore, is soon j)assed, and now a perceptible increase is noticeable THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 53 in the velocity of the current. The interest among the pas.sengers, if it has anywhere been allowed to tlag, now becomes re-awakened, as the word goes along the line that the famous RAPIDS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE Will soon add zest to the journey. There are several courses of these rapids, those we are now entering being the Gallopes, which, com- pared with some of the others, are of biit little interest, except as a foretaste of what is to come. Next we enter and pass the Rapid de Plan, and the excitement dee'pens as the foaming, seething waters just ahead proclaim the approach to the famous Long Sault (pronounced *S'oo). This is the longest of the series, being a continuous descent for nine miles, with the current running at a speed of twenty miles an ho\ir. A canal, eleven miles in length, extends around this rapid, with seven locks, facilitating the descent of such crafts as are unable to cope with the rapids, and also permitting the return of the steamers. Four sim- ilar canals are to be met at various places along the river. At Dickenson's Landing, just before entering the Long Sault, the passengers are transferred to the "Prince Arthur," a boat constriicted expressly for " shooting the rapids," which steams out from the land- ing, with its bow headed toward the angry waters, as if in defiance of their power. The increasing speed, and especially the perceptible descent, soon awaken the interest of the dullest among the passengers, and as the boat lurches to the right or left (or, in nautical phrase, to the starboard or port), to escape destruction from some ledge which the trusty pilot knows how to avoid, the excitement deepens and increases, and the half hoiir recpiired for the passage of the Long Sault is crowded lull of alternating delight, fear and exhilaration, quickening the pulse and giving zest to the journey, not to be appreciated except by those who experience it. At the foot of this Rapid, the placid waters of Lake St. Francis are entered, and the conti-ast between the tranquil surroundings and the tumult and excitement just passed through brings a grateful sense of relief, and the lovely scenery among which the boat now glides for twenty-five miles, is all the more keenly appreciated. The call to din- ner, which is served during the passage of this lake, is a welcome one, and the passengers are now ready to descend to the level of things ma- terial and substantial, which they find spread in abundance in the din- ing saloon. After dinner, and a quiet stroll on deck, a little more experience with rapids is in order. Passing Coteau du Lac, we enter the Coteau Rapids, descending quickly to the Cedars, Split Rock and Cascade Rapids. In passing the Cedars, a peculiar sensation is experienced, as the boat a]ipears to settle down occasionally with great suddenness, as though about to be submerged. This is siipposed to be owing to a strong undercurrent which exerts this influence on the boat as she }>asses from one ledge of rock to another, although they are at a safe THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 55 distance below her keel. The passage of the Split Rock Rajjids seems dangerous, as indeed it would l)e were the jtilot to forget for a moment the grave responsibility of his trust, and fail to swerve tlie boat at just the right moment to avoid some rock or ledge that threatens destruction to the craft. Occasionally a i-aft may be seen in conflict with the rushing waters, apparently at the mercy of the current. The venturesome lumbermen generally manage, however, to " put in an oar " to good advantage in steering clear of the rocks, although not always successful in guiding their frail crafts into quiet waters. An occasional wreck is the result of these ventures, as the scattering logs in the channel attest. RAFTS IX THE KAPIDS. The Cascades are so called from their resemblance to a series of short, leaping falls. Passing the Cascades, we enter upon another broad expanse of water, the river here widening into Lake St. Loiiis, re- ceiving also the waters of the Ottawa River. This lake is twelve miles long by about six in bi-eadth, and the ride across its quiet waters just precedes the culminating excitement of the trip, — the daring passage of the FAMOUS LACHINE RAPIDS. At the head of tJiese Rapids is the ])retty little Indian village of Lachine, and hei'e comes aboard our Indian pilot, Bai^tiste by name, who has piloted the boats through the Lacliine Rapids for forty years. These Rapids are the most perilous in all the river's extent, on account 56 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. of the devious nature of the channel, and the dangerous rocks which lie just enough below the surface to deceive any but the skillful navigator. The swarthy giant who takes the wheel at this point pays little atten- tion to anything but the duty in hand, and that seems to demand all his energies. Casting alternate glances at him and at the nishing watei's aliead of us, we involuntarily breathe the words of the hymn, " Steady, O pilot, stand firm at the wheel." Right in our path lies a ragged rock, which threatens us with in- stant destruction ; but a turn of the wheel at just the right moment sends our good craft a little to the left of it, and the apparent danger is past. With bated breath we watch for the next peril that looms ahead of us, to find it, like its predecessor, vanquished by the strong arm and steady nerve of the man to whom every yich of the channel is as fa- miliar as a beaten path. Entering once more into (juiet waters, we steam on our way toward Montreal, and soon the horizon is marked with the long line of the fa- mous Victoria Bridge, which rises higher and higher as we approach it, until we glide under it and are soon at the wharf of the American Line, at the close of a day that has been tilled with a succession of de- lights unapproachable in a day's experience in travel elsewhere on the Ameiican Continent. CANADIAN CARRYALL. xr^ MOKII^ AND ;^ QUEBEC. V'> TOUR from the West to the East which did not inckide a visit to the chief cities of Canada woukl >e indeed incomplete. Hence, in the arrangement of Slimmer excursions, the River 8t. Lawrence comprising a pai*t of the trip, it is both easy and natural to embrace these jDoints of interest. MoxTREAL is the metropolis of British North America. Its situation, both from a scenic and commercial point of view, renders it attractive to the touiist and prosperous as a business center. Its loca- tion is on an island in the St. Lawrence, at the base of Mt. Royal, which gives the city its name. The view of the city from the river, with the mountain in the background is beau- tiful and impressive, and when this is su2:)pleraented by the grand pic- ture exhil)iteil from the summit of the mountain, with the river and the Victoria Bridge in the distance, the observer is ready to exclaim, " Beautiful for situation! " On arriving in Montreal, whether by boat or rail, the traveler is impressed with the idea that the entire population must indulge in riding, so numerous ai-e the hackmen, or carters, as they are called, to be seen at every hotel, depot and landing. Their easy one or two- horse carriages are at your service for long or short trips, and their prices are very reasonable, being regulated by law. The fare from point to point within the city is twenty-live cents for one or two pas- sengers, and fifty cents for three or four, although the usual custom of the driver is to charge twenty -five cents for each passenger, and collect it if he can. If }ou go outside the city limits, make a bargain in ad- vance. In fact, there is safety in giving this rule a general application wherever you need the services of a hackmaii, and thereby always .avoiding contention in settlement. iil||||l|L n ill"''''' iilll! m iiiiiifeiil?;']i\ i|yi •-*.* i/Vlii/i' MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 59 THE HOTELS Of Montreal are excellent, comprising, among the most eleg;int, the Ottawa, Windsor, and St. Lawrence Hall. The Albion Hotel has for many years been a great favoiite with American tourists, both from the personnel of its management and the reasonableness of its charges. The Montreal House, the American, the Richelieu, and a host of other claimants for [)atronage, all have their special merits, and are well- spoken of by their visitors. Sight-seeing, in the city and vicinity, is best accomplished by the employment of a " carter," who is usually well posted on all the points of interest, and can often entertain his party with sundry legends in connection with them. The most delightful drive, for a single trip, is the RIDE AROUND MOUNT ROYAL, Which is about nine miles in extent, over splendid macadamized roads, through a section of country, in the suburbs, devoted to gardening, and under a high state of cultivation. The entire island, about thirty miles long by ten wide, is noted for its fertility, and is called the Garden of Canada. The trip should also inchide a drive to the summit of the mountain, whicli is reached Ijy a carriage road of easy ascent, and which is being converted into a magniticent park, from which an ex- tensive view of the city and sun-ounding country can be obtained. Tiie Mount Royal Cemetery, the Grey Nunnery, and the Hotel Dieu ai-e also to be seen in this drive, the latter being the largest build- ing in the Dominion, used for a convent, hospital, and asylum for poor eldldren. The Water Works, the reservoir of which is on the side of the mountain, with the pumping station on the banks of the St. Lawrence, above the city, are well worthy of a visit. The reservoir was exca- vated out of the solid rock, and is 206 feet above the level of the river. The cost of the works, with the machinery, was over •$2,000,000. The immense pressure obtained from such an elevated reservoir, enables the tire department to dispense entirely with engines, using hose carriages, and a large conflagration in the city is almost an impossibility. The public buildings of the city are substantial and elegant, many of them conspicuous for their superior architectural design, and the completeness of their appointments. The Court House, Post Office, Meix'hants' Exchange, several bank buildings, the Custom House, Mc Gill College, Bonsecours Market, and a list that might be indefi- nitely extended, comprise the notable structures that will attract at- tention as you ride through the business thoroughfai-es of the city. The churches are among the finest to be foimd in America. Notre Dame, with its twin towers, conspicuous from every point of view, is the most capacious of any of the finished structiu-es, although the Cathe- dral, now in process of erection, and modeled after St. Peter's at Rome, MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 61 is to be second only to this famous editice in point of size and ele- gance. The towers are massive and lofty, being 220 feet in height. The right-hand tower may be ascended, and the view to be had well re- wards the etibrt of climbing. It contains the big bell, weighing nearly 30,000 pounds. The other tower contains a chime of bells. The Church of the Gesu is noted for the beauty of its frescoes and paint- ings. The English Cathedral, and several Protestant churches, are also tine editices. Lachine Canal, leading from above the rapids of tliat name, is a tine specimen of engineering, and not only serves to facilitate naviga- tion, l)ut fiu-nishes almost unlimited water power for the extensive manufactiiring enterprises along its banks. Victoria Bridge, which crosses the river from the Southern shore, is a massive and costly structure. One of the best views of it is that to be had in coming down the river, the boat passing under the central span. It is tubular in shape, built of iron, and rests upon twenty-four piers of solid masonry, the central span being 330 feet, and the i-emain- ing ones 242 feet. It cost $6,300,000, is the property of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, and is used exclusively for railway purposes. The shipjiing interests of Montreal are among the most important sources of the city's prosperity. At the head of ocean navigation, it is the American terminus of a number of trans- Atlantic steamship lines, and the railway and river and lake connections from the West, com- bined with its facilities for ocean commerce, render it vel-y prominent as a port for transhipment. Its wharves are not excelled in America, being constructed of solid limestone ; and its harbor is deep and ca- pacious. The Champ de Mars, a spacious parade ground, where three thou- sand ti'oops may be reviewed at once ; Viger Square, near by, with gar- dens, conservatories, fountains, etc.; Victoria Square, Jacques Cartier Square, and several other smaller squares, constitute the parks of the city, in addition to the Mount Royal Park. Improve his time as he may, the visitor Avill not soon exhaust the attractions of this beautiful city, and will tind many more, which we have not space even to mention, as we regretfully leave the pleasant spot, and resume our journey, to the ANCIENT CITY OF QUEBEC. The route from Montreal may be chosen from three : The North Shore Railway, the Grand Trunk Railway, and the Richelieu & Onta- rio Steamship Line via the St. Lawrence. The latter is a favorite, and unless the tourist is surfeited with steamboat riding, will be the one generally chosen. It is a night trip, and therefore less wearisome than a ride by rail, as the comfortable state rooms of the boat are pref- erable to the berths of a sleeping-car. Leaving Montreal at early evening, passing the fort on the island dii-ectly against the city, and onward past the mouth of the Ottawa River below the city, the lirst stop is at the town of Sorel, or William 62 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. Henry, at the confluence of Sorel or Richelieu River, forty-tive mih^s from Montreal. Five miles farther on, the river expands into a lake about twenty-tive miles in length by nine in width, and known as Lake St. Peter. Next we come to the ancient city of Three Rivers, taking- its name from the fact that the St. Maurice River, which here flows into the St. Lawrence, is divided by islands into three channels. CITV OV QUEBEC, FKOM THE KIVEK. The view of Quebec, as approached from the river, is singularly impressive. Unlike any other city on the American continent, its sit- uation and surroundings make it an object of striking interest. The fortifications, with their towers and battlements, frown upon you from the Plains of Abraham and" from the lower town, and there surrounds the place an aii- of mediaevalism at once novel and attractive. It is one of the oldest cities in America, as well as one of the most interesting. It was founded in 1608, and its history is replete with events of tremendous importance. The scene of many a battle and of untold carnage, the crowning event of all was the memorable engage- ment which transferred half a continent from France to Biitain, and immortalized the names of both commanders, the victor and the vanquished. The city consists of two divisions, known as the upper and the lower town. The upper town includes within its limits the Citadel of Cape Diamond, which covers the entire summit of the promontory, embi-acing an area of more than forty acres. It rises to the height of 345 feet above the river, and from its commanding position and the sti'ength of the fortification, has been not inaptly entitled the " Gibraltar of America." CITY AND H VRBOH QUEBEC, FROM THE CITADEL 64 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. The shape of the city is triangular, the St. Lawrence and St. Charles rivers forming the two sides, with the Plains of Abraham for the base. The i-iver fronts are defended by a continuous wall on the very brow of the clifl', with flanking towers and bastions, loopholed for musketry and pierced for cannon. On the west side, a heavy triple wall, with trenches between, formerly guarded that approach, but much of it is now de- molished. Between ^ '— -- "^2"5 ^-; . ^ the old town and the outside world, the wall was formerly pierced with frowning gate- ways, five in number ; but these have been gradually demolished, in response to the increas- ing demand for more free communication, and on the occasion of tlie writer's las visit to the city, the old Saint .John's gate was being entirely removed. We present views of these gateways, from which the fortified aspect of the town be- fore their demolition may be readily inferred. The nationality of the inhabitants- is strongly French, and the visitor from the States can easily fancy himself in a city in France, so decidedly un-Ameri- can are all his surroundings. The quaint houses, the steep and tortuous streets, especially of the oldest portions of the city, and the almost universal use of the French language in the ordinary channels of trade, require no stretch of the imagination to practically trans- ]>ort one to the old world, and give a glim[)se, as it were, of a foreign country. The view from the Citadel, on ac- count of its elevation, is surpassingly grand and comprehensive. The majes- tic St. Lawrence, alive with sailing craft of every size and kind, stretches before the vision in both directions, WOLFE'S OLD MONUMENT. QUEBEC AND VICINITY. 65 seeming like a band of glistening metal, beiiutifying the scene and giving animation to the picture. Directly below lie the crooked streets of the lower town, teeming with animation, while its busy population so far beneath, seem like pigmies, and you look upon the glistening roofs of the houses and down the very throats of the chimneys, into which it would seem an easy matter to toss a pebble. Looking to the westward, the Plains of Abra- ham are spread out before you, together with the blutis scaled by Wolfe and his brave soldiers in the preparation for the assault that ended in a victory, but cost the lives of both commanders. The spot where Wolfe fell is marked by a hand- some monument. It was erected in 1849, but is still called the '-new monument" in dis- tinction from the simple monolith which ^ previously occupied its site, an illustration of which is given on the pi^eceding ]>age. tliH new monument bears the sim2)le but |uent inscription, " Here died Wolfe, \ictorious."' Directly across the river is the settlement of Point Levi, and down the stream the beau- tiful Isle of Orleans may be j^ ^A- seen. This pleasant resort may be reached by ferry from the city, and it affords delight- ful drives, giving views of the Falls of Montmorenci, the Laii- rentian Mountains, and other objects of interest. Chaiidiere Falls, nine miles above Quebec, on the river of the same name, are 130 feet high and 400 feet wide. The Falls and Indian village of Lorette, seven miles from Que- bec, are points to which ex- cursions may be profitably made, either by carriage or the North Shore Pailway. Other points of interest in and about Quebec demand at least a brief mention. The Dufferin Terrace, which will be included in the visit to the Plains of Al)raham, as will also the Governor's Garden, where the monument to Wolfe and Montcalm will l)e seen ; the Fi'cnch Cathedral ; the Laval Seminary, in the chapel of which are some very fine paintings ; the English Cathedral, near by ; the Ursuline Con- vent ; the public buildings in the lower town, and others which the WOLFE'S NEW MONCMEXT. PALACE llATi:, IjUEliEC. *T. LOUIS Ci.VTE, yiEBEf. FALLS OF JIONTMOKENCL 67 driver will point out to you, are of sufficient interest to enliven a visit of several days duration, or tliey may l)e hurriedly inspected in ii " liy- ine; trip." THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCI Are among the most interesting of the objects which secure the visits of tourists to Quebec, both on account of their own attractiveness and the pleasant drive by which they are reached. The "carters" of Quebec are as numerous as tho.se of Montreal, and the roads around the city and in the country adjacent are among the finest to be found anywhei'e. Securing your driver, you leave the city by one of the gates, and, crossing the St. Charles River, are soon in the suburbs, passing here and there a house or villa of modern style, but speedily coming to the realm of the ancient ; the road leading through quaint old hamlets, the cottages with their picturesque dormer Avindows, the thatched-roofed outbuildings, and the peasant-like appearance of the peoj^le, combined with the universal employment of the French lan- guage, strengthen the fancy for the time being that America must be far away, and that the rural districts of France or Switzerland are the ij^'-' Mn^^ s»» r FRENCH CANADIAN HOME. scenes .through which your trip is made. Children run beside the car- riage, asking alms or otlering tlowers, while the women and older girls are at work in tlie fields, oi' spinning with their rude wheels in the open doorways or on the porches of the little houses. The anticpxated impknnents of agi-iculture, the rude carts by the roadside, and the rustic crosses by the way, at which some devout pilgrim, perchance, is tarry- FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. FALLS OF MONTMUHENOl. 69 ing to breathe a Fater Xoster, all tend to complete the illusion of a remoter age or more distant clime than the few hours' ride from bus- tling, modern, Yankee civilization. The ride of eight miles all too (juickly brings you to the River Montmorenci, and here you gaze upon historic ground, it being the scene of the battle of Montmorenci which immediately preceded Wolfe's tinal victory at Quebec. Leas'ing your cai-riage, aiid paying a small fee for the privilege of crossing private grounds, you descend the bank of the river to look up at the fall from below. The river here pours over the clitf into the St. Lawrence, broadening at the edge to about 50 feet, and falling 250, in a sheeny vail, half water, half spray, not sublime, nor even grand, but exquisitely beautiful. The towers on either side of the river still mark the s])ot where, several years ago, a suspension bridge was erected, but which, through some defect, gave way as a laborer and his family were crossing in a cart, precipitating them into the gulf below. Returning to Quebec, the views of the city are enlivened by the peculiar featvire of glistening towers and roofs, so noticeable in connec- tion with many Canadian cities. The sunlight, glancing from the metal-covered roofs, spires, and dormer windows, which, owing to the tortuous windings of the streets, are set at every conceivable angle, })ro- duces a brilliant and sparkling effect. If you are ever tempted to indulge in sentiment, the words of the poet, used to describe the Celestial city, may come into mind : — "There is the city ia splendor subli iie; See how its towers and battlements shine." THE SAGUENAY RIVER. This is the largest atttuent of the St. Lawrence, which it joins about 120 miles below Quebec. The scenery of the Saguenay is strikingly grand and romantic, and unlike anything else east of the Eocky Mount- ains. It is usually visited by boat, and the trip down the St. Law- rence to Tadousac, at the junction of the two streams, and up the Sag- uenay among its bold, wild scenery, should not be omitted, even at the expense of slighting some other point of interest lying in the highways of fashionable travel. Leaving Quebec by steamer, you pass through some remarkably fine scenery, in which the majestic St. Lawrence abounds, the river being in some places thirty miles in width, and dotted with a multitude of islands, abounding in game. The Falls of St. Anne are on the river of that name, which enters the St. Lawrence off the lower end of Orleans Island through a bold ravine. The quarantine station on Grosse Isle is passed, and is associated with sad memories of the famine in Ireland. It received twenty thousand plague-stricken emigrants, of whom six thousand now lie in a single grave, marked l)y a stone monument. Ninety miles below Queliec is the fashionable watering place known 70 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. as Murray Bay. The river is here twenty miles wide, and the tides have a range of twenty feet in height. On the south sliore of the river, still further down, is Riviere du liOup, a place of some importance, and six miles below it is Cacouna, already quite famous as a pleasure resort, and yearly increasing in popularity. Across the river from Cacouna is Tadousac, at the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay, formerly a place of some commercial importance as a post of the Hudson Bay Company, and one of the first towns on the St. Lawrence fortified by the French. It has a good hotel, near which is a little church over 250 years old. TADOUSAC, AT MOUTH OF SAGUENAT KIVEH. The Saguenay River is remai'kable, not only for its great depth, but also for the marvelous height of its banks. It seems to flow through a rift in the Laurentian Mountains, which appear to be cleft, as it were, to the very foundations, the height of the clifls rising from the edge of the river being equaled only by the depth to which they descend below the surface. The source of the river is 130 miles from its junction with the St. Lawrence, in Lake St. John, which is fed by eleven rivers, draining an immense watershed, the great volume re- sultant pouring through this remarkable gorge, in many places unfath- omalile. At St. John's Bay, 27 miles above Tadousac, the water is one mile and a half in depth, and but little less at Eternity Bay, six miles beyond. At the hitter place, the wonderful capes. Trinity and Eternity, like giant sentinels guard the entrance, rising 1,500 and 1,'JOO feet, respectively, above the water. Ha-Ha Bay is sixty miles above Tadousac, and is nine miles long by six wide. It has also been named Grand Bay. The first-named title is said to have come from the exclamations of delight which sprung from the lips of the navigators of the river on its discovery ; and in contrast with the gloomy and forbidding aspect of the lower portions THE SACilKNAV KIVER. 71 oi" the liver, it would seem that sucli an oiit])urst might be perfectly natural. The mountains around Ha-Ha Bay abound in whortleberiies, or blueberries, as they are here called, and a very imjiortant industry with the natives is the gatlierinif and shijiment to market of the boun- HA-HA BAY, SAGUENAY KIVEK. tiful harvest thus kindly furnished by nature, the picking season ex- tending from the middle of July until the falling of the snow, and the supply being inexhaustible. \\\'E-< ETEItXITV AMI TIlINrrV. 72 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. Chicoutimi, a few miles beyond, is at the head of navigation, the river being obstructed above this point by rapids and falls. Lumbering is one of its important industries, the immense forests of the vicinity be- ing as yet almost in their virgin state, and the harbor accessible to the largest vessels, thus giving it natural facilities of gi-eat value. The lishing in the Saguenay River and its tributaries is one of the chief attractions to the sportsman. Salmon abound, and the quality of the tish taken from such deep, cold water can readily lie inferred by the disciples of Walton. Game also abounds in the forests, some specimens being well worthy of the skill and nerve of the trained hunter. A stiident of character will find an interesting subject in the person of the Canadian Indian, to be met in various localities in Canada. Combining with his native craft the shrewdness of a Connecticut Yankee, he will often appear in the role of a vender of cuiiosities, in which "taking" attitude our artist pre- sents him. In closing our notes on the Saguenay, we feel that but faint justice can be done to its won- derful attractions. It has been tersely described by a writer as a "region of primeval grandeur, where art has done nothing and nature everything ; where, at a single bound, ci%ilization is left behind and nature stands in unadorned majesty ; where Alps on Alps arise ; whei-e, over unfathomable depths, through mountain gorges, the steamer ploughs the dark Hood on which no sign of animal life ap- pears. " A better slimming iip of its peculiar features, in so few words, could not lie written, and the tourist who visits the scenes we have briefly described will indulge in no regrets, unless it be that want of time to do justice to the trip gives only hurried glances where hours and days might be enjoyed in i-ealizing the siiblime grandeur of the surroundings. INDIAN CUKIOSITY SELLER. OGDENSBURG TO PORTLAND. 73 Ooden^hHro to PcrfUnuL 'HE route by the "all-rail" line from the 8t. Lawrence at Odgensburg to the ocean at Portland, presents many attrac- ts tions to the pleasure tourist, which we deem worthy of special mention in this connection. As an avenue of api)roacli to the Adirondacks, Chateaiigay Chasm, the Green Mountains of Ver- mont, and the White Mountains of TS^ew Hampshire, it offers a combination of desirable routes for summer travel. Indeed, the entire lino extends through a siiccession of lake, river, and moimtain sceneiy, of charming beauty and variety. The Adirondacks are best reached by way of Malone, a station on the Ogdensbui-g & Lake Champlain Railroad, about sixty miles from Ogdensburg. From here an excellent stage line takes the tourist to the Adirondack Wilderness, by way of Ayer's, Loon Lake, Meacham Lake, and St. Regis, the latter being the location of "Paul Smith's" famous hostelry. Chateaugay, a station twelve miles east of Malone, is another gateway to the famous resort, the stages going via the Cha- teaugay Lakes. The " Adirondack District " is a term applied to a tract of country having for its general boundaries the St. Lawrence River on the north, Lakes Champlain and George on the east, the Mohawk River on the south, and the Black River on the west. The encroachments of civili- zation have so trenched upon these boimdaries, that tlie "Wilderness," so called, comprises only the central, unsettled and \uicultivated por- tion of this tract, almost in its primeval state, with a border of settled country on all sides. The limits of this work forbid an extended de- scription of this region, which as yet is only partially explored. In- deed, one of its chief delights consists in the new discoveries that the venturesome tourist may make in his search for the game which abounds in its forests, or the tisli which teem in its waters. The following, from the report of the Superintendent of the Adi- rondack Survey, gives a good idea of the character of some portions of this wilderness : — " In these remote sections, filled with rugged mountains, where un- named waterfalls pour in snowy tresses from the dark, overhanging cliffs, the horse can find no footing, and the adventurous trapper or ex- plorer must carry upon his back his blankets and a heavy stock of food. His ritle, which affords protection against wild beasts, at times replenishes his well-hiisbanded provisions, and his axe aids him in con- structing from bai'k or bough, some temporary shelter from storm, or hews into logs the huge trees which form the fierce, roaring, comforta- ble fu-e of the camp. Yet, though the woodman may pass his life- 74 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. time ill some section of tlie wilderness, it is still a mystery to iiim. * * It is a peculiar region ; for though the geographical center of the wilderness may be readily and easily reached in the light, canoe-like boats of the guides, by lakes and rivers, which form a labyrinth of pas- sages for boats, the core, or rather cores of this wilderness extend on either hand from these broad avenues of water, and, in theii- interior, spots remain to-day as untrodden by man, and as unknown and wild, as when the Indian paddled his birchen boat upon those streams and CASCADE AND BUTTRESS. lakes. Amid these mountain solitudes are places where, in all proba- bility, the foot of man never trod ; and here the panther has his den among tlie rocks, and rears his savage kittens undisturbed, save by the growl of bear or screech of lynx, or the hoarse croak of raven taking its share of the carcass of slain deer." A mile and a half north of Chateaugay is the wonderful Chateau- gay Chasm, a newly discovered rival of the far-famed Ausable. The 0(JI)ENSBURG TO PORTLAND. 75 waters of tlie Chateaugay Lakes here find a passage on their way to the St. Lawi-ence, through a narrow gorge, walled in by sandstone cliffs, the river in one place making a descent of fifty feet in a beantifnl cascade. Several of the more noticeable features of this wonderful chasm are presented in our illustrations. The "Cascade and Buttress" exhibits an appearance of constructive design, as layer upon layer of sandstone rock forms a terraced buttress, resembling some ancient ruin. "Giant Gorge " is a narrow defile, with frowning walls, having the ro- I.IA.NT UUKUE — PULI'lT liL mantic and interesting feature of a cavern, called " Vulcan's Cave," with an entrance in the side of the rock, sixty feet above the river, and one hundred and twenty feet below the top of the clift'. It was first explored by means of spliced ladders, but is now i-eached by an en- closed stairway. It is al)out thirty feet square, and presents an inter- 76 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. esting study for the geologist. The cave was doubtless hollowed out of the sandstone by the action of water which trickled down through the ledge above in tiny streams, wearing away the softer stone by slow de- grees, and leaving the masses of harder deposit in a variety of singular and grotesque shapes. A series of architectural pillars, supporting SPARTAN PASS — RAINBOW FALLS. gothic arches or miniature dormer windows, may be seen on the one hand, and at certain angles, odd and fantastic figures, some of them half human in appearance, present themselves, while here and there a block of stone appears like the unfinished work of the sculptor. " Spartan Pass " and " Hainbow Basin and Falls " are peculiarly interesting, the water descending to the basin over a succession of rocky steps, nearly a hundred in number, coming to a rest in the " basin," only to dash on again, in ever-changing foims and merry ca- dence, in their race through the gorge, to the St. Lawrence. " Pioneer OGDENSBURG TO POKTI.AND. 77 Crossing" receives its name from tlie fact that in early times a bridge spanned the chasm, on what was then the great highway of the wikler- ness. On the nortli side of this crossing a huge rock affords an exten- sive view of the gorge, fi'om which fact it has been named Point Look- out. In other parts of the Chasm, grottoes, arches, cohimns, etc., afford subjects of study for the curious, and of admiration for the PIONEER CROSSING — POINT LOOKOUT. lovers of the odd and fantastic in nature. A fine hotel has been erected near the entrance to the chasm, from the cupola of which splendid views may be had of the scenery. Coaches connect with trains at Chateaugay. At Eouse's Point, the terminus of the O. & L. C. R. P., connection is made with ihe Delaware & Hudson Canal Co. Railroad for Lake George, Saratoga, Troy, Albany, and New York, and with the Central 78 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. Vermont for St. Albans, Worcester, Providence and Boston. Contin- uing our journey toward Portland, we here traverse a small portion of the Central Vermont Railroad to Swanton, where connection is made with the . ST. JOHNSBURY & LAKE CHAMPLAIN RAILROAD, The next link in the line under consideration. The route from Rouse's Point, via Lake Champlain, is exceedingly pleasant, the scenery being that of the lovely lake, and the Green Mountains of Vermont. Shel- don Springs are on the line of this road, and it is also a direct roiifce to Mount Mansfield. Both these localities have acquii-ed no little celebrity as summer resoits. At Morrisville, connection is made for Mount Mansfield by stage line, and such as wish to visit the locality will find an excellent stop- ping place at Mt. Mansfield House. The mountain is in the town of Stowe, about twenty miles northeast of Montpelier, and its height is 4,359 feet above the level of the sea. The Green Mountains of Vermont are a portion of the great Appa- lachian range, extending almost continuously from near the St. Law- rence River, in Canada, through the entire length of Vermont, across the western part of Massachusetts and the middle Atlantic States, to the northern part of Alabama. The White Mountains of New Hamp- shii'e, and the Adirondacks and Catskills of New York are regarded as outlying spurs of this chain. This range is remarkable for the uni- formity of outline which characterizes the diiferent peaks, particularly of their summits, the ridges extending in the same general direction, sometimes hardly diverging from a straight line for a distance of fifty or sixty miles. Where the mountain chains are parallel, the ridges are also in i)arallel lines, preserving their general direction, and, to a won- derful extent, a uniformity of distance between them. When one curves round in a new direction, all curve with it. These general peculiarities ai"e less marked in the mountains of Ver- mont than in the more southerly portions of the same chain. In fact, the peculiar characteristics of the range, as a whole, are less marked at both its northern and southern extremities, the termination at either end not being well defined, as the mountains sink away and ai'e lost in the liilly country that succeeds to them. The Green Mountain peaks are also less bold and abru])t than those of the White Mountains, being covered mostly with verdure to theii* very summits, and presenting less of sharji or nigged outline in their general conformation. To many visitors, this feature is pleasing and agreeable, and a large class of summer tourists spend a portion or all of the season in the vicinity of the "beautiful hills " of the " Green Mountain State." At St. Johnsbury the line intersects the Passumpsic Railroad, and a description of the- route from this point will be given in the following chapter, in connection with the trip from Quebec and Montreal. jME .MoUlQTi^IT) HE route from the West to the seaboard via Montreal and Que- bec, as arranged over recently com- pleted lines of travel, naturally extends through the charming re- gion of the celebrated White Hills of New Hampshire. From Mont- real, or any point beyond, this popular resort is easy 'of access by several routes, all of them ])ossess- ing some special attraction to in- vite the tourist to give them a trial. From Quebec, the tourist may re- turn to Montreal, by boat or rail, "'*■'' or may proceed directly to the mountains by the Quebec Central Railway to Sherbrooke, thence via the Passumpsic Railroad to St. Johnsbury, Bethlehem and Fabyans, in the veiy heart of the White Mountain region. If the trip be made byway of Montreal, the mountains may be reached via the Grand Trunk, the Southeastern, or the Central Vermont. The route by the Grand Trunk, is by way of Gorham, and the eastern side of the mountains. By the Southeastern, the line is to Newport and St. Johnsbury. The Central Vermont line offers two routes ; one to Montpelier, there connecting with the Montpelier &. Wells River Radroad, or by way of Swanton, thence by the Portland and Ogdens- burg line to St. Johnsbury, which thus seems to be made the focus of all the various lines having the same general direction, and leading to the mountain region. At Newport, reached by the Southeastern from Montreal, or the Quebec Central from Quebec, the celebrated Lake Memphremagog is the chief attraction, and the dining station is at the splendid hotel bear- ing the same name as the lake. It is a popular summer resort, and the steamer on the lake makes frequent trips for thet accommodation of tourists. Several mountains, comprising Jay Peak, Owl's Head, Mount THE WHITE .AJOUNTAINS. 81 Oxford, Mount Ele])]iantis and the Willouglil)y Mountains are amou"- the atti-aetions of the ticinity. St. Johnsbury is situated on the Passumpsic Rivei', at the intersec- tion of the Passumpsic and St. Johnsl)ury it Lake t'hanijjLiin Piail- roads ; and in acklition to the attractiveness of its location from a scenic point of view, it has attained much prominence as a manufactui-inif town, the heaviest enterprise in that direction being the production oi the celebrated Fairl)anks scales, known the world over for their excel- lence and correctness. The St. Johnsbury House and Avenue Hotel are good places of entertainment. Eastward from St. Johnsbury the route lies over the St. Johnsbury A Lake Ghamplain Eailroad to Lunenburg, the western terminus of the Portland division of the P. & O. line. From this point, a ride of an hour brings us into the very midst of the glorious White Hills, iuid in full view of the grand PRESIDENTIAL RANGE, Stretching before the vision in a glorious and lieautiful panorama, with the peerless Washington above them all. This approach to the mount- ains atiords the most comprehensive view of the ]:)iincipjal range ; and the Westerner, who has always been accustomed to broad expanses of prairie, with no greater elevations, perhaps, than the height of an ordi- nary church stee})le, will be peculiarly imjjressed with the grandeur of the scene before him. The first important station is Bethlehem Junction, three miles from Bethlehem village, the "paradise of hay-fever sufferers." This lovely hamlet enjoys the distinction of having the highest location of any town in the United States east of the Rockies and north of the Carolinas ; and the remarkable purity of its atmosphere not only secures exemption from the peculiar malady which drives so many to its pu-o- tection, Ijut heightens the effect of the views to be had of the surround- ing country. Owing to its commanding position, and the i-emark:i)ile clearness of the atmosphere, the view of the moimtains fiom " Beth- lehem Street " is confessedly the best to be had anywhere. The village is rendered accessible to the traveler by means of a re- cently constructed narrow-gauge railroad, from Bethlehem Junction to the end of the " street." Al)Out midway on the line of this road is the magnificent hotel known as Maplewood, kept in superb style, and at its terminus is the well-known Sinclair Hoisk, Durgin ct Fox pro- ])rietoi's. In addition to these palace hotels, a host of smaller ones, and a long list of V)oarding-houses. furnish abiding places for the midtitudes who "tarry for a night," or make this place their sunmier home. Bethlehem is also the railroad connection for the famous Franconia Notch, by means of a narrow-gauge railroad, extending into the val- ley and terminating near the Profile House. The attractions of this locality are sufficiently important to demand special notice by them- selves ; and we therefore keep straight on in our course, the next stop 82 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. being at tlie Twin Mountain House, so named from its proximity to the " Twin Mountains," one of which is visible from the hoteL This house has for many years been the summer home of Henry Ward Beecher, who addresses large congregations of Sunday excursionists during the season. Four miles further, and we stop at the White Mountain House, one of the oklest of the mountain hotels, a veritable " tavern " of the earlier days, with less of style than its more pretentious neighbors, but THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 83 with a large stock of good cheer and hospitable care for its guests, at moderate prices. Only a mile from the Fabyan House, the would-be guests of the latter are sometimes compelled, from an over-taxation of its immense capacities, to fall back on the resources of mine host Rounsevel, who gives them the best his house aftbrds, and bids them ''be therewith content." ;the fabyan house, Six miles from the base of Mount Washington, is one of the most com- plete establishments of its kind in all the mountain region, having ac- commodations for five hundred guests. It is situated on a beautiful intervale, at an elevation of more than fifteen hundred feet above sea level, and its piazzas afford a fine view of the White Mountain range. It is also a central point from which excursions are made to the vari- ous resorts within easy reach by rail or carriage. The traveler may find, in this vicinity, an opportunity to enjoy a relic of the " good old days " of stage-coaching, which the railway has not succeeded in en- tii'ely abolishing, although it has largely superseded the conveyance once so popular in the mountain region. THE ASCENT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. From the Fabyan House, the railroad has been extended to the base of Mount Washington, there connecting with the wonderful ele- vated railway to the summit, thus forming a continuous all-rail line to the realm above the clouds. The six miles of road to the base of the mountain compasses some of the steepest grades known to railroad en- gineering. A powerful engine, of the six-drive-wheel construction, is required to propel a very moderate load of passengers, and as it la- boriously puffs along the grades, the forests echo and re-echo with the sound, while the traveler feels thankful that the iron horse, instead of flesh and blood, is being employed in his service. Mt. Pleasant Hotel is passed a short distance from Fabyan's, and a short distance from here are the Wild Ammonoosuc Falls, a natural curiosity well worthy of a visit. The river descends "about fifty feet, in a broken, u-regular way, and in some places has worn curious chan- nels in the rocks, resembling a cauldron, in which the water seethes and boils in its downward course, and issues laughing, singing and leaping in its wild and merry race for the intervales below." The Mount Washington Railway is one of the wonders of mod- ern engineering skill. It was chartered by the Legislature of New Hampshire, in 1858, the passage of the bill being regarded as the huge joke of the session, one member offering to amend it by "extending it to the moon," either terminal being regarded as equally liable to be- come a f^ict. In spite of obstacles, however, its construction was suc- cessfully accomplished, by the combined ingenuity of the projector and inventor, Sylvester Marsh, the mechanical skill of Walter Aiken, who Ijuilt the engine and cars, and the financial aid and " push " of friendly THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 85 mclividuals ami interested railway companies. It was completed in 1869, and has carried thousands up and down tlie mountain without the slightest injiiry to any, so complete is the system of safety appli- ances in use, each independent of the other, and any one sufficient in itself to insure complete safety. The writer was once an eye-witness to the severest test to which it has ever yet been siibjected, caused l)y the breakage of one of the gear driving wheels of the locomotive. The re- sultant disarrangement of the machinery set in o}ieration the automatic safeguards, prodiicing the eti'ect of instantly holding the train to the track as firmly as though it had been bolted to the solid rock. Indeed, it was with no little difficulty that it was liberated, and enabled to pioceed. The accompanying illusti-ation gives a good idea of the o))eration of the road. In addition to the ordinary rails I >f t lie common L^ railroad, there „ - ^ i^ i*^ '^ toothed : -• " ""-=-- _^ rail midway between, in ; ^_--- which there ,L „.^.,^v' "'meshes" the ■^ geai-ed wheel attached to the axle of the loco- motive, which thus steadily dimhs up the mountain by the revo- lution of the machineiy. All the axles, both of the engine and passenger coach, are provided with geared wheels, by means of which the train could be instiintly anchored to the track, as in tlie case above cited. Each car has its own locomotive, and will carry about tifty passengers. The seats ure inclined backward, so as to be in a good position on ascending the mountain. The car is always above the engine, both in the ascent and descent. The latter is accom- plished by gravitation alone, the bi-akes being kept in requisition to hold the train in check. The ride np the mountain constitutes an experience never to be for- gotten. Leaving Ammonoosuc Station, as the starting point at the base is called, the train immediately surmoixnts a considerable eleva- tion l)efore emerging fi-om the forest, which is soon left behind as we rise above the " tree-line," and reach the region of stinited shrubs, which in turn give place to moss and lichens, and finally to rocks, bare of vegetation, and as cheerless as it is ])0ssible to imagine. Above the trees, the prospect broadens, as the landscape spreads out in a grand MT ^\ V^HI^GTO^ K4.IL^\ W 86 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. panorama, almost illimitable, and of wonderful grandeur and beauty. Several stops are made for water, wliicli is taken from large tanks fed by mountain springs, far above, and conducted down in pipes. These stopping places have been appro]iriately named, according to their lo- cation, such as Waumbek Station, Gulf Station, etc., the latter being near the yawning chasm in the mountain-side, named the Gl'LF of Mexico. Banks of snoAv may frequently be seen in its recesses, even in midsummer, and a game of snowballing is not an uncommon August recreation. ^^: -K.K "gulf of MEXICO," MT. WASHINGTON. Jacob's Ladder is a long section of trestle work, with a consider- able elevation and steep inclination, after passing which the grade di- minishes somewhat, as the road winds around the crown of the mountain. Near the summit is a pile of rocks surmounted by a tablet, known as the "Lizzie Bourne Monument," marking the spot where the young lady perished from exposure, in September, 1855 ; having undertaken the ascent of the mountain in company with two male relatives, with- out a guide, and becoming chilled and bewildered, she lost her way, and rietors, are among the most successful hotel managers in all the region. Mount Lafayette, the highest peak of the Franconian range, has an altitiide of 5,259 feet, and the view from the summit is regarded as second only to that from Blount Washington. The ascent is made by 98 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. ')■■ ^•'?i??:-v,. '\ %. ^If\ \ bridle path from tlie Profile House, where horses, guides, etc., are to be foimd at the service of the tourist. A building at the summit af- fords shelter from inclement weather, or the severe winds which some- times prevail at such an elevation. Eagle Cliff, a huge crag, with precipitous front, towers up to the height of fifteen hundred feet, directly in front of the hotel. A paii" of eagles made it their home for some years, until driven away by the curiosity of explorers. A fine ^•iew of the Cliff is to be had from Echo Lake, which nestles at its base, and is one of the most charming little bodies of water to be found. The blast of a horn, or the repoi't of a small cannon, fired at intervals to " wake the echoes," reverberates against the sides of the (Jliff and the rocky walls which environ the lake, with a succession of sharp and dis- tinct lepctitions, gi owing fainter and funteij.md hn ill\ dvin of the Notch the appi'oach being fiom the north. On either side of the gorge, the Franconia 1 mge extends in a southerly direction, La- f lyette, Lin- I. oln and Lib- ( 1 1 y on the t 1st, Profile. Kinsman and Pemigewasset M)n the west, w ith several lesser peaks and spurs, the valley gi'actu- ally descend- ing to the south, and widening in the descent, until it expands into the Yalley of the Pem- igewasset. Three miles from the Profile House, a path diverges from the road near a small brook, and a walk of half a mile brings to view a succes- EAGLE CLIFF. FRANCONIA NOTCH. 99 sion of picturesque waterfalls, which have received the name of mLKER's Falls. A half mile further south is the Basin, a curious XEAK VIEW OF TUE I'liUElLE. ,-ranite reservoir, about forty feet across, and ^^ f T^^^^^^^^ ui which the waters make a gyratory turn, a er l^;;f ^^^^l^^^^ Five miles from the Profile House, near the lowei gateway I «i 1 1 FRANCOXIA JKJINIAINS, IKciM I'l _:M 1. 1; W ASSET VALLEY. MOUNT LAFAYETTE I FRANCONIA NOTCH. 101 ISTotcli, is the Fi.ume House, so named from its proximity to the rocky raviiie, between whose walls the Great Boulder is suspended, as thoiiyh ready to fall at the slightest provocation. As these j^ages are beim»' printed, the telegraph brings the news that the ravine has been choked by an avalanche, and the fall of the boulder is reported. When the book is in the hands of its readers, the correctness of the repoi-t will have been determined, but at this writing it cannot be verified. The Pool, the C'ascades, Georgianna Falls, Mount Pemigewasset, and FLUME AND BOULDEK. other objects of interest, are to be visited from tlie Fi;ime House. A stage i-oute extends from the Profile House to Plymouth, via the Pemigewasset, and before the completion of the railroad from Bethle- hem, was the principal method of conveyance to this locality. It is still a favorite with many ti'avelers, being, as above indicated, a direct route to Plymouth, a favorite resort on the Boston, Concord, ct Montreal Railroad. Those wishing to reach Boston by this route may connect by stage with the trains at Plymoiith, or, returning to Bethlehem, may take the trains of this road, which run via Wing Boad, Littleton, Warren, Wells River, Plymouth and Lake Winnipe- saukee, to Concoz'd, thence by Concord, Lowell k Boston Railroad, to the metropolis of New England. This is a })opular route between Boston and the mountains, and is very largely patronized in the summer. LAKE WINNIPESAUKEE. 103 Near Warren, on this line, is Moosilauke, a mountain peak of some celebrity, which from its comparatively isolated position, atJbrtls a very fine view from its summit. The town boasts of fff^j .miles of trout streams, and several excellent hotels provide good accommodations for such as desire to "drop the line," or s]i('nd a season in recreation. O^VL"!^ HEAD AND 3I00SILAUKE MOUNTAIN. The Pemigewasset House, at Plymouth, is the dining station of the B. C. ife M. R. P., and has an almost national reputation for the excellence of its cuisine. Jt is also a favorite summer resort hotel. The beautiful Lake Winnipesaukee is reached at Weirs Station and Steamboat lianding. This sheet of water, irregular in its boundaries, studded with hundreds of islands, and bordered by some of the finest scenery in the world, has obtained almost a world-wide fame, being visited by thousands of tourists every season. Weii-s Station is on the western shore ; and within a few years has becoine celebrated as the loca- tion of a permanent camp-ground, occupied in tarns by the Methodists, 104 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. tilt' Unitaiians, and the Grand Ai'my of the Repul)]ic. Several hotels and summer boarding houses have been built to accommodate the in- ci'easing demands of tourists who wisli to tarry by the margin of the lake, and enjoy its lovely scenery, and bathe and fish in its waters, or ride over its surface among its myriad islands. Center Harbor, on its north shore, Wolfboro on the east, and Alton Bay on the south, are all well-known summer resorts, and the ride between these points by steamer constitutes a delightful trip. Two boats of considerable size, the " Lady of the Lake, " owned hj the Boston, Concord & Montreal Railroad, and the " Moimt Washington, " the property of the Boston PEMlGK\VA:^Sh,T HOUSE, PLyMOUTH, K. U. tfe Maine Eailroad, together with several smaller craft, constitute tht^ ilotilla ; and their fi-equent trips among the islands and between the principal ports just mentioned atibrd opportunity to enjoy the attrac- tions of Winnipesaukee, and to i-ealize the signitlcance of its Indian ti- tle, which is translated "Smile of the Great Spirit. " The " Weirs " takes its name from having formerly been the location of the fish-weirs of the aborigines, whence an unlimited supply of food was drawn, in the days before the shriek of the locomotive, or even the crack of the stage-driver's whip, lu'oke the stillness of the adjacent forests. From Weirs Station the route to Boston is via Concord, Man- chester, Nashua, and I-owell. 106 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. White Moimtam Koteh, The route from Fabyan House to Portland extends through this fa- mous pass, over the Portland & Ogdensburg Railroad ; and the ride is one of the most delightful trips by rail to be afforded east of the Pocky Mountains, and with the exception of the ascent to the summit of Mount Washington, is the grandest and most imjjressive. The rail- way itself is a wonder, overcoming, in its construction, obstacles that might appall the stoutest-hearted engineer. Rimning here upon a lofty trestle, clinging now to the side of a mountain, winding around the base of some overhanging clitl', again bridging some mountain stream far above its bed, it thi-eads its devious way through the pass, abolishing the fatigue and hardship incident to mountain visiting, and affording a panoramic view of scenery unsurpassed for variety, novelty and grandeur. The trip through the Notch is made in Observation Cars, which are attached to all trains. These are open at the sides, and provided with revolving arm chairs, thus affording an outlook in all directions, adding materially to the pleasure of the joiirney. The first five miles accom- plished, and we are at THE CRAWFORD HOUSE, Almost in the very gates of the Notch, near its upper entrance. Either in going or returning, this will be found a desii-able stopping place, as there are many points of interest in this vicinity. The hotel itself is spacious and elegant, accommodating 500 guests. In the days of moun- tain-climbing by " brute force, " it was the starting point of the bridle path to the summit of Mount Washington ; but the hardy mountain ponies, trusty and sure-footed, have given way to the " iron horse," no less trusty, but vastly less romantic. Saco Lake, near the house, is the source of Saco River, here a dimin- utive stream, but increasing in volume on its way to the sea, as it ab- soi'bs the brooklets and rivulets, until it is utilized in tiu-ning the busy wheels of industrious machinery in many a factory before it is lost in the Atlantic. Gibes' Falls, also near the hotel, are forty feet in height, divided by a rocky cliff into two parts. They were named in honor of a former landlord of the house. Beecher's Cascade, a half mile distant, may have had some other name, but it is now lost in the distinction given it by a baptism expe- rienced by the eminent divine, not according to the method of Plymouth Church, but more after the Roger Williams standard, and wholly involuntary. Mount Willard, sometimes called Moimt Tom, or Tom Willard, al- though not of great altitude, furnishes an excellent point of observation from its summit, which is reached by a comfortable carriage ride. The 108 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. view is highly praised l:)y good judges, Anthony Ti-ollope declaring it uneiju lied in all the cl.issic Ehineland. Standing at the very gate of the Notch, it commands an excellent view of the chasm, and the differ- ent mountains whii^h encompass it, together with a splendid jirospect to the west and north. HERMIT S POOL, FKANCOXIA NOTCH. Silver Cascade and the Flume Cascade are two of the attractions of the locality, which leap down the sides of Moimt Webster in glorious disorder, now spreading out over a rocky bed in a thin sheet of silver, gathering again in some pool for a plunge over a precipice, breaking into spray in the descent, then running swiftly in a narrow channel as if gathering momentum for another grand leap, and so laughing, sing- ing and dancing on its way, to join the Saco in its noisy pilgrimage to the sea. WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. 109 The Willey House, memorable as the scene of the disaster known in history as the " Willey Slide, " is located under the steep acclivity of Mount Willey, Avhich rises some 2,()0() feet aljove the house. Opposite are the frowning clilis of Mount Welister, with the Saco Kiver flowing near. The story of the fearful calamit}^ is familiar, Imt its I'epetition. may be of interest to our readers. On the night of August 2i<, 182tJ, a terrible storm occiirred, swelling the brooklets into angry torrents, and loosening the soil from its hold on the rocky acclivity of Mount Willey, sending it down the mountain side with a fearfiil roar, threatening de- struction to everything in its path. M r. Willey, his wife, live children, and two hired men, comprised the inmates of the house ; and it is sup- posed that they became -frightened and fled from the iiouse to escape the peril, and rushed into the very ja-ws of death, lieing overwhelmed in the avalanche, not one es'caping to tell the tale. The faithful house- dog, however, appeared at Conway, antl endeavored to give intelligence of what had happened by all the resources of his jiower of communica- tion. The bodies of six of the victims were recovered, but three of the children found permanent burial in the debris. The saddest feature of the calamity is the fact that had they remained in the house no harm would have befallen them, as a large rock at the back of the house di- vided the slide, and sent it by on either side, leaving the building un- touched. The scarred side of the mountain still shows the track of the avalanche, only enough soil being left to support a growth of white birches. Avalanche Brook, so called from being regarded as the cause of the disaster, has on it a beautiful cataract, called the Sylvan Glade Cataract, and higher up, another called Sparkling Cascade. Such of the forgoing objects of interest as are visible from the train are pointed out by the condiictor and trainmen, and an occasional halt is made to permit of a longer view of some point of special importance. If time will permit, it is well to stop off at one or more of the stations, and proceed by following trains. But whether this be your privilege or not, the ride will be one not soon forgotten, and its repetition de- sired and longed for. Below Willey ^Mountain the valley opens out into a wider expanse, and the scenery becomes less wild and I'omantic, biit none the less beautiful with the change. The Willey-Brook Bridge is a tine specimen of engrneering skill, and is ciossed by the train, giving the courageous passengers a chance to peer into the deep gulf which it s[)ans, and the timid ones occasion to " hold their breath " at the thought of a possible tumble, should '-anything happen." The bridge, however, gives no oc- casion for fear, as it is of enormous strength, although not puntlerous in appearance. A short distance below this point, the train crosses the famous Frankenstein Trestle, an iron structure five hundred feet long and eighty feet high. Near this are the Giant's Stairs, Mount Resolu- tion and Mount Crawford, the latter nearly opjjosite Beinis Station. SCENES IN THE WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCH. P. & O. RAILROAD. WHITE MOUNTAIN NOTCIT. Ill Near here is the old Mount Crawford House, now closed, where Abel Crawford, the pioneer for whom the Mountain and Notch were named, " kept tavern " for many years, and told stories and legends of the mountains to his guests, and, on occasion, piloted them to the haunts of the shy trout, or to mountain summits, by paths long forgotten. His son, Ethan Allen Crawford, cut the first bridle path to Mount Washington, in 1821. VALLEY OF THE SACO RIVEK. ISTancy's Brook is soon reached and crossed, so named from a sad incident involving the old story of a deserted maiden, and a recreant lover who tied on the eve of the appointed wedding day, jnirsued by the poor girl, who perished from exposure, and was foiind in the snow at the foot of a tree, near the margin of the stream which now bears the name her mother gave her, a kindly way of commemorating the event with- out involving the family name. Sawyer's Eiver is crossed, as the road turns sharply to the east- ward, and at Upper Bartlett the interesting landmark known as Saw- yer's Rock commemorates the discovery of this pass, or rather the 112 CHICA(iO TO THE SEA. accomplishment of an event which attested its discovery, viz., getting a horse through the Notch, for wliich feat, as an evidence of the existence of the pass, Nash, the discoverer, and a brother hunter, received fi-om Governor Wentwoi'th a grant of land known as Nash &. Sawyer's Lo- cation. The last obstacle being this rock, the poor beast was let down over it by means of ropes, and Sawyer exultingly dashed his I'um bottle against it, which sufficed to christen it by the name it now bears. At Cti.en Station, connection is made with the stage line for the Glen House up the valley of Ellis Ei\er and through Pinkham Notch. Should the traveler feel disposed to make this triji, he will find much to reward him in the way of pictui'esque scenery, pleasant drives, etc. At a short distance from the road where it crosses Ellis River, a tine waterfall, known as Goodrich Falls may be seen. Passing the little village of "Jackson City," the road soon enters the i)ass known as Pinkham Notch, named from a family of early settlers, who con- structed the Notch road. GLEX-ELLIS FALL. Glen-Ellis Fall may be reached by a path diverging from the stage road. The Ellis River here descends a precipice seventy feet high. From its contiguration it was formerly called " Pitcher Fall," but the more poetic but less descriptive title seems to cling to it. NORTH CONWAY. 118 THE GLEN HOUSE, Previously mentioned as a Hne hostelry, is the terminus of the stage line. Here you will meet guests who have come by stage from Gor- ham, eight miles distant, on the Grand Trunk Kaihvay, or from the summit of Mount Washington, by the carriage road already described. This location is more than sixteen hundred feet above sea-level, and the clear, bracing atmosphere, the magnificent scenery, and the delightful drives in several directions, together with the excellent manner in which fhe hotel is kejit, are sufficient to account for its popularity and success. In the matter of stage-line management, it pi-obably has no superior in the world, that which conveys the passengers up the carriage road to the summit of Mount Washington being notably superior in point of equipment, and the well-known skill of its drivers. Excursions may be made from here to the Carter Notch, Osgood's Cascades, Summit of Mount Madison, Garnet Pools, Emerald Pool, Thompson's Falls, Glen-Ellis Falls, Crystal Cascade, Tuckerman's Ra- vine, and many other places of more than ordinary interest. APPROACH TO NOKTH CONWAY. — P. dc O. R. R. But again taking up our line of travel at Glen Station, the train soon emerges upon the beautiful Conway Intervales, Intervale Station V)eing the next stopping place. The Intervale House, near by, is a pleasant abode for those who choose to tarry. A short distance beyond is North Conway, a village of multitudinous attractions, and with a popularity as a summer resort that is siu-prising to the casual visitor, who, although seeing much to admire, fails to comprehend the peculiar coml)inations whicli l)ring people year after year to spend their summers in the vicinity. Superticially, the most attractive objects conspicuously visible are the hotels. The spacioiis Kiarsaroe House seems a veritable paradise for 114 CHICAGO TO THE SEA. the traveler, and its tables are unexcelled. The views from its veran- dahs are superior, comprising the mountain ranges, the famous Pequaket or Kiarsarge Mountain, and the lovely Intervales, upon which the vil- lage is situated. The mountain from which the hotel receives its name is about three miles from the village, and the ascent may be made in the saddle or on foot. The altitude is .3,367 feet, and the view from the summit comprises the entire White Mountain Range, together with Mote Mountain, Rattlesnake Ridge, Sebago Lake with other bodies of water of less magnitude, and a stretch of landscape in every direction most pleasing to the eye, less grand and rugged, to be sure, than that we have been describing, but on that account more restful to the senses. KIARSARGE HOUSE AND MOUNTAIN. DISTANT VIEW. The other attractions at North Conway consist of Artist's Falls, Echo Lake, tlie Cathedral and Ledges, Diana's Baths, the Devil's Den, and a host of lovely drives in various directions, with sylvan paths for pe- destriauism ad lihifam. Conway Center, tive miles southeast of North Conway, is the next station, and has many charms as a summer resort. Mount Chocorua, with a shai-p pinnacle, towering up 3,540 feet above sea-level, is reached from here to good advantage, as is also Walker Pond, a short distance south of the town. We are now in the "smiling valley " of the Saco River, in the midst of cultivated farms and peaceful villages, in striking contrast with the 8EUA(i() LAKE. 115 scenery just left behind. Crossing the boundary line between New Hampshii-e and Maine, our next station is Frveburg, whicli some po- etic writer has called the " Queen of the 8aco Valley. " It is indeed a lovely town, embowered in deep foliage, and affording the visitor most delightful drives. Jockey Cap, a huge granite pile, is near the L'rr;- MOUNT KIAKSARGE, OK I'EQUAKET. village ; and close by is Lovewell's Pond, the scene of an Indian l)att]e in 1725. Mount Pleasant is only seven miles distant, and has upon its summit a fine hotel. Passing m quick succession the stations of Browniield, Hiram, the three Baldwins, and 8teep Falls, we reach SEBAGO LAKE, Seventeen miles from Portland, and forty-three from North Conway. For a short distance before reaching the lake, the run is devoid of in- terest and exceedingly tame ; but as the road skirts the shores of this beautifiil sheet of water, and its broad expanse stretches away in the distance, bounded by wooded shores and sandy beeches, the change is magical, and the contrast a most pleasing one. Sebago itself is twelve miles long and nine miles wide, and is connected with Long Pond by means of Songo River and the "Bay of Naples," formerly "Brandy Pond," — before the days of the " Maine law." The entire chain of lakes, river and bay affords a steamboat ride of sixty-eight miles in the round trip. Bridgton, one of the steamer-landings on Loni; Pond, is the birth-place of the genial humorist " Artemus Ward." From Port- land, a pleasant and popular tiip consists of a ride to Sebago by the MOUNT DESERT ISI.ANL). 117 morning train, a tri[) over the lake to Jiridgton, returning in time for the evening train to Portlanil. And thither, in the continuation of our excursion, we too mnst go. Only seventeen miles more of our long and delightfvd journey " from Chicago to the Sea " remain to be traversed. Almost regretfully we linger over the few last leagues of the trip, but remembering that either way from Portland our excursion may be lengthened indefinitely, we resume our seats in the train, and in fifty minutes are in THE METROPOLIS OF MAINE. Portland is pleasantly situated on a narrow peninsula projecting from the west shore of Casco Bay. This peninsula is about three miles in length from east to west, with considerable elevations at each end, giving the city a beautiful appearance as approached from the sea. Its harbor is one of the best on the Atlantic coast, being deep and ca- pacious, and pi'otected by land on all sides. The city is beaiitifully laid out, its public buildings are fine, and many of its private residences elegant. The commercial and business interests of the city are extensive and important, the value of the shipping owned in the district being very great, and its manufactures employing a large amount of capital. The railroads centering here are the Portland it Ogdensburg, Portland '. Y. Tie Best [(iiiippefl Railroad in tlie lortd. Without exaggeratins. and keeping closo within the narrow limits of fact, it may be as- serted without fear of truthful contradiction, that the CHICAGO & NORTH-WESTERN RAILWAY Is not only the best and most perfectly equipped railroad in the world, but it is also the most important as to the territory it traverses, the numerous business centers and pleasure resorts that it reaches, and the facilities it offers for pleasant, speedy, safe and comfortable transit for all classes of passengers It caters alike to the needs, tastes and abilities of the mill- ionaire merchant prince; to the farmer, with his plain and simple wants; and to the eco- nomical and necessitous; and gives to each the full value of all he pays for. Its luxuriantly liiiishtMl and furnished palace sleeping cars, and its more than luxurious drawing-room coaches are marvels of beauty and comfort. Its coaches are new and of the most perfect models that have been adopted by any company, and they are always kept sweet, clean and pure. Its dining cars are superb, and the meals and service provided in them are equal to that given by any tirst-class hotel in the country. WHERE IS IT? Starting from Chicago and having various main lines running west, nonh-west, and north, it covers about all that is desirable iu Northern Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, the upper Michigan peninsula, Minnesota and Central and South-eastern Dakota and North-eastern Nebraska. It is eminently the railroad of the north- west; and from iis commanding location, it controls the traffic of all of the territory it traverses. WHAT IS IT? Over .5.000 miles of the best built and best maintained railroad there is in the country. It is equal iu every respect to any road in the world, and is believed to be better than any of its competitors. Its lines are built of heavy steel rail; its bridges are of steel, iron, and stone, and all its ap- pointments are as good as money can buy. COLORADO & CALIFORNIA. This Company's line between Chicago and Council Bluffs (Omaha) is sliortcr tlian any other between these points, and was the pioneer m forming connection with the Trans-Con- tinental Union and Central Pacific Railroads. Nearly all^experienced overland travelers seek this line, because it is known to be the best, shortest, most coniTortable, and in every way the most desirable. To seek other more circuitous and inferior routes is accepted as an evidence of inexperience or want of information. If you are destined to or from Colorado. Nebraka, Utah, Wyoming, Montana. Idaho, Nevada, California, Oregon, Washington Territory, China, Japan, the Sandwich Islands. New Zealand or Australia, you should, in making the trip between Chicago and Council Bluffs (Omaha), iu either direction, see that your tickets read over this great road. ST. PAUL, MINNEAPOLIS & WINNIPEG. This road, ''St. Paul Line,"' is the short and desirable route between Chicago and Madison, St. Paul and Minneapolis, and the best to travel over if you are destined to or from Chicago and any point north or north-west of St. Paul. Winona and Mankato, Minn.; Frankfort, Huron, Pierre, Aberdeen, Columbia and Watertown, Dakota; Milwaukee, Fond dn Lac,Osh- kosh, Watertown and Sheboygan, Wis.; Freeport, Elgin, Dixon and P'nlton, 111.; Clinton, Cedar Rapids, Des Moines, Webster City, Algona, Tama and Council Bluffs, Iowa, are a few of its hundreds of prominent local stations. It reaches most of the pleasant summer resorts of Wisconsin and Minnesota, and is the road to take for the health and scenic resorts of the Rocky Mountains, the National Yellowstone Park, and nearly all of the notable western and north-west resorts that are accessible by rail. It connects in Union Depots with the Union Paciiic Railway at Council Bluffs, and at St. Paul with all roaiis diverging from that point. Yon can procure tickets over this route from nearly every coupon ticket agent in the country. When iniying your tickets, read them carefully, and be sure that at least one coupon reads over the Chicago & Xorth-Western Ry. Ask your nearest coupon ticket agent for one of its large maps; they are FREE, and will show you all of this Company's lines as they are. FOR COMFORT, SAFETY AND SCENERY CHOOSE, IN TRAVELING EAST OR WEST, THE fflTif^ ' "'■■"^ '^'"Jife J^b»*##*>k*»*. "5J Which forms, in connection with the GRAND TRUNK RAILWAY, the Old and Favorite New England iloute TO AND FROM ALL POINTS WEST. The Rolling Stock and Equipment of the Central Vermont Railroad is second to no Road in this country. It is the only line lunning Betvreen Chicago and Boston without Change, AND SOLID TRAINS OF ELEGANT COACHES AND BAGGAGE CARS Without Change between Montreal and Boston. Steel Rails, Iron Bridges, with Westinghouse Air Brake, Miller Platform, Coupler and Buffer on every train, assure safety while passing swiftly through Mountain, Lake and River Scenery of the most beautiful and varied description. The Train Service of this Road is so arranged that sure connections are made with the Grand Trunk Railway, and with Railroads in New England to and from all the principal cities, villages and towns in I. Pullman Cars Montreal to Springfield, and Wagner Cars Montreal to New York, Without Change. First-Class Restaurants, with reasonable charges, and ample time given for meals. BAGGAGE CHECKED THROUGH CANADA IN BOND, Avoiding all trouble of customs. During the Suiiiiiier, Excuriioii Tickets are Sold over llii§ Line at Oreatly Red need Rates. Ask for rates via this Line before buying, and note that your tickets read via CENTRAL VERMONT RAILROAD. For sale at all Stations and responsible Ticket Offices East and West. COMPANY'S OFFICES. — 260 Washington Street, Boston; 271 Broadway, New York : 136 James Street, Montreal. J.W. HO BART, General Supt. S. W. CUJVIMINCS, Gen, Pass'r Agent. General Offices — St. Albans, Yt. SUMMER TOURS L^I -R STliA.UiiK I'AssiaG PiCTi KK!) KUClv-^. The attention of Summer Tourists, contemplatiug a trip for health and recreation, is invited to the attractions of a Tour via the Great Lakes on one of the following PjVlace Steamers : — India, China, Japan, Winslow, Njack, Arctic, Empire State, Badger State, and St. Louis, The Lake Sujierior TranMt 6c., Leaving Detroit, Cleveland, Erie, and Buffalo, for Duluth, at the head of Lake Superior, and between the ports above named. To those who have not the leisure to travel the entire chain of lakes, we offer a Series of Short Excursions, on Lakes Erie, Huron, or Superior. Steamers leave Detroit, from foot of Woodward Avenue, as follows: For Sault Ste. Marie, Marquette, Hancock, Houghton, Ash- land, Bayfield, and Duluth, Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, at 11 o'clock, p. M. For Cleveland, Erie, and BuflEalo Sundays, Mon'days, Wednes- days, and Saturdays, at 5 o'clock, p.m. A Guide Book, descriptive of the routes, entitled "Summer Tours via the Great Lakes," will be sent free on receipt of stamp, by addressing J. T. WHITING, General Agent L. S. T. Co., Detroit, Mich., or the undersigned. T. P. CARPENTEE, (ien. Pass. Agl. Lake Superior Transit Co., BrFFALo, N. Y. SMITH'S DIAGRAM FillilillifMf lllil SHOWING -McThe Relation of Any Motion to Every Other IVIotion,^!^ AND Jin.>n'erin(j at a (jlanvc vrcj- oOO Quctlio)!,) in ParViamenlarij Practice; tof^ether with a Kcij coxtaixiHij I'oxci^e lli)di> [4, iiifvctionl) for Cc7idiictinrj the BulAnc.>h vj Deliberatire AuemhlieA. 1^" It is to the Study of Parliamentary Practice wliat a Map is to the Study of Geograpliy. From the ]^ew York lii«le|»i'iB4l<'iit. :>Isirr<'seiilatives. WaKliiiig-(4»ii. I have carefully examined the^voIume,"and take pleasure in saying that I re- gard the work as a very valuable one, and arranged so as to indicate to either the casual reader or even an expert the special as well as general rules controlling a particular motion. Your work seems to have been thoroughly done, and 1 cheer- fully commend it as a vade mecum for parliamentarians. From lion. I>sivi«1 IB. .Jerome, lv\-<>overiior ol* j^lielti^aii. Can 1)6 utilizetl by a presiding ofiicer at a glance, and without the emliarrassing delay necessary to consult ordinary authorities. From Beiig. 1^. Ilewift. Speaker ol" tlie IIoii«i»iir$;'. Fa. After a careful examination of your "Diagram of Parliamentary Rules," I lind it a most exhaustive and complete compendium of parliamentary law, afibrding, at a glance, solutions of almost every question in parliamentary practice. It cannot fail to meet with public favor. From Frof. I. T>. Stone, tornierly Superintendent of the City Seliools <»S" Itattle l"i'e«'k. For practical use it is worth all the massive treatises in the world. I-iy a happy device you have brought the whole perplexing code of parliamentary laws into such brief space and simple shape that any jioint of order can be determined at a glance, and wif/iont lurning a page. Of the flood of new "aids to instruction," this is one of the very few which really meets and satisfies "a long felt want." Price, ty mail, postpaid: cloth binding, 50 cents; in morocco, $1.00. Address REVIEW & HERALD PUB. CO., Battle Creek, Miclr NICHOLS, SHEPARD& CO BATTLE CREEK, MICHIGAN. [Works at iiitefsoctinii of MicluLiaii Cuiiti-al and Grand Trunk llailwavs. J Threshing Machinery, TRACTION AND PORTABLE ENGINES, THE 3TJ^l>riDJ^lElID O'F EXIGEXjIjIElsrOIB. Marvelous I>ural>ilit.v : ^Voii m O o > > r O c m A ^f^¥ Principle, Uiiivei'sallj' A|>i»i'ove«lI Simple. Strong'. Convenient. Iteantiliil! Tlie Most Popular Seliool Seat in Use! T/ris S.-at is a DECIDED AD PRANCE upon all the Old Styles. Do not use the Old when the New is better! The attention of school officers is invited to the above Seats. The "AUTO- MATIC " is now in use in most of the prominent schools in the West, and very generally throughout the United States. Its superior merits have been fully dem- onstrated No other seat can compare with it in the essential features of Hoaltll- fuliiess, Comfort, and Durability. Send for our fully illustrated descriptive catalogue, which will give you a cor- rect idea of the Seat, and will show you what leading educators think of it. This catalogue also contains information respecting all kinds of School Supplies, together with elaborate Planfi ^^ S}ieeificnfiont> of Scficollitdldinfjt^j Which are of great value. It will be sent you gratis, on application. HEATERS. — We are now able to offer you the best School Room Heater in the market. Better and more economical than either stoves or furnaces. See catalogue. Teachers', Principals' and Office Desks in Large Variety. If you want anything for the school room — ^Maps, Globes, Slate Blackboards, Slating, Ci'ayons, Erasers, Bells, Reading Charts, Physiological Charts, Window Shades, Dictionaries, etc., — write to UNION SCHOOL FURNITURE CO.. OHICAaO OFFICE : ISO Wabash Avsnue. Battle Creek, Michigan. -.=^^3B O XJ Xj T ' S 0^:.=^ CUTS PANELS OF ANY DESIGN OR STYLE Of Mould, ill the Solid Wood, with Neatness and Dispateii. IT IS A FIRST-CLASS llSl, ^ euif 4G1 lOILBll. Also, does beautiful Dovetailing on Thick or Thin Stuffs. MSMVNA^^ ^V^^SA/V in Chest. SIZE OF CHESTS. For 15-foot Boat, 40 inches long, •20 inches wide, 20 inches deep. For 12-foot Boat, .38 inches long, 17 inches wide, 17 inches deep. FIVE SIZES ARE MANUFACTURED. No. 1, 15 feet long, 36 inches wide, weight, 75 lbs. Price, $50. u 2, 12 " " 33 <' " " 50 " " 40. 3, 12 4, 91 6, 8" 33 40 30 30 40. 35. 35. Each size makes up foui- different weights or style.s. You ha\e the same as four boats com- bined IN ONE. Boat is put in sack made of ducking, only little larger than ordinar,v grain bag', and then al packed in chest for shipping. The sack is a sufficient protection to the boat in carrjing it in wagon or carriage. The chest is used only for transporting it on cars, or on a load of camping goods. Boats shipped C. O. D. on receipt of $10, subject to examination before paying the balance to the express agent. If not satisfactory, tlie boat can be returned by freight, and we will return balance of money, after paying freight charges both wajs. Parties ordering, that know the boat, may send draft for ftdl amount, and we will ship by freight or express ; or send good reference and we will forward at once, it-j?' If jou want a Port- :il>lt' Boat, we can please you. Send for Illustrated Tt'stiiiioiiial Circular. Manufactured by N. A. OSGOOD, Battle Creek, Mich. jJ |FR0f M8T. LUiENCnO T||Ei| I (Og'denstm.rg to I»ortlaiii Chicago to Buffalo and Niagara Falls, via Detroit, Mackinaw City to Toledo, via Detroit, Bay City and Saginaw to Jackson, Grand Rapids to Detroit, via Jackson, Jackson to Niles, Airune. 1 IVj ICHIGAN AND OTHER SMALLER LINES. CO;. r'taaaaaa E a ;-<:^ .13:^13 Ba !3 ii * .^ cu ^'^^p*^ a r:T J^K a AA^AA^>^ ro >1/V^ F/?0/>f MICHIGAN AND -e^- ]N"e^vv^ Y^ork, Boston, BiO-fFalo, Chicago, Detroit, and Toledo. NEWlmmiNG CARS Between Chicago, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls, on Principal Trains. EXCURSION TICKETS DURING THE SUMMER MONTHS Via Niagara Falls, St. Lawrence Eiver, Thousand Islands, &c.. To all thie X»IjEA.STJPtE RESORT'S of tlxe E^VST". H. B. LEDYARD, General Maiia, P. I. WHITNEY, Aast Gen I Pas. S Tick. 0. W. RUGGLES, Gen I Pas. <4 Tick. Agl L^aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa^Eiaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaas LRAe'OS