OAD, Wh W mpobello, AD LAKES, PORTLAND, BANGOR, ST. JOHN, HALIFAX, And all parts of MAINE & EASTERN PROVINCES. For sixty miles from Boston the line follows the Atlantic Shore, touching en route the well-known summer resorts, Lynn, Nahant, Swampscott, Salem, Marblehead, Beverly, Manchester-by-the-Sea, Magnolia, Glouces- ter, Rockport, Pigeon Cove, Newburyport, Hampton Beach, Eye Beach, Portsmouth, York, Isles of Shoals, and the Wentworth. Pullman Parlor or Sleeping Cars on All Through Trains. Seats or Berths reserved by Mail or Telegrai)h. Through Tickets are sold at all principal ticket-offices in New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington. &c. BOSTON CITY TICKET-OFFICE, 306 WASHINGTON ST. (Next door to Old South Church.) DEPOT ON CAUSEWAY STREET. Books giving Excursion Routes, Maps, Hotel Lists, &c., will be mailed free on application to L,UCIUS TUTTI.E, General Passenger Agent, BOSTOlSr, 3S^-A.SS- G. E. B. JACKSON, President. PAYSON TUCKER, General Manager. TRAVELLERS, Whether for Business or Pleasure, will find this the MOST DESIRABLE ROUTE Between BOSTOlSr And St. John, Halifax, Cape Breton, PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, Or any part of the MARITIME PROVINCES. Special Attention is being paid to forming a Through Line between Boston and the Provinces, which shall supply the MAXIMUM OF COMFORT AND SAFETY And consume the MINIMUM OF TIME AND MONEY. With these ends in view, new trains have been adiied for the Summer of 1883, by which passengers, leaving Boston at 12.30, noon, reach St. John the following morning, and Halifax the following evening; or, leaving Boston at 7.00 p. M., arrival is made at St. John the next afternoon, and Halifax the second morning. West-bound passengers leaving Halifax in the evening, reach St. John at 6.00 A, M. , connecting there with the 7.00 A. M. train, REACHING BOSTON AT 10.00 P. M. THE SAME DAY ; or, leaving Halifax in the morning and St. John in the evening, passengers reach Boston the following day at 6 30 A. M. Time tables giving latest information vyill be mailed free at any time upon application. Boston and Maine Railroad. THE GREAT SEA-SHORE ROUTE FROM BOSTON" TO PORTLAND. BANBOR, ST. JOHN & HALIFAX. Also the Direct Koute to WELLS, KENNEBUNK, OLD ORCHARD, &SGARBORO The Only Line running in Direct Connection with Steamers running the ENTIRE LENGTH OF LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE. This line makes Direct Connections with the Maine Central, Grand Trunk, and Portland & Ogdensburg Railroads at Portland, and with the Portland, Bangor, & Machias, and International Steamboat Lines ; and thus afifordti Tlie Most Direct Xjine to the WHITE MOUNTAINS, SEBAG-G LAKE, MOUNT DESERT, Oampobello, Machias, Jonesport, Lamoine, and the RANGELEY and MOOSEHEAD LAKES. PARI.OR CARS ON AliL TRAINS. Trains leave Boston for Portland at 9 a.m., 12.30, 3.30, and 7 p.m. BOSTON CITY OFFICE, 280 WASHINGTON STREET. General Offices in Station in Haymarket Sq., Boston. For Information and Circulars apply to D. J. FLANDERS, M. L. WILLIAMS. Gen. Ticket Agent, Boston, Ticket Agent, Portland, F, D. GouBLEY, Travelling Agent. Or to any of the Ticket Offices on the Line. JAMES T. FURBER, Gen. Supt. 5 \^^ »fe,»- Q L r-.. ^.^'~4- ^e.-c^ \t THE MARITIME PROVINCES: HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. A GUIDE TO THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OP THE MARITIME PEOT- INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AMD HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE LABRADOR COAST. With Four Maps and Four Plans, THIRD .EDITION. REVISED AND ENLARGED. B O S T ON : JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 1883. 1- f 1 Copyright 1875 aio) 1883, BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. do Y^ Univeksity Press: JOHN Wilson and Son, Cambridge. PREFACE. The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to their treatment in a combined form and according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have never before been mentioned in works of this character. The Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of 4Jae Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are iv PREFACE. incorporated witli tlie accounts of the places made classic "by them. The naval and military operations of the wars which centred on Port Royal, Louisbourg, and Quebec have been con- densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events which are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- scribed at length in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may favor him. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. M. F. SWEETSER, Editor of Osgood's American Handbooks, 211 Tremont St., Boston, t «!^flfj y.ef^8^tiM>E'f-^^^>ga}^?iMKa| Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/maritimeprovince02swee ^^MMMMMia CONTENTS. PAGE I. Plan of Tour 1 II. Newfoundland and Labrador 2 III. Money and Travelling Expenses . . . . • . . -4 IV. Railways and Steamboats ■* V. Round-Trip Excursions 5 VI. Hotels 7 VII. Language 7 VIII. Climate and Dress ." 8 IX. Fishing 8 X. Miscellaneous Notes .- 9 NEW BRUNSWICK. route General Notes 13 1. St. John 15 2. The Environs of St. John 22 1. Lily Lake. Marsh Road 22 2. Mispeck Road. Suspeusion Bridge 23 3. Carleton 24 3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay . 25 4. Grand Manan 28 78. Campoeello 30a 5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 30 1. St. George. Lake Utoi)ia 32 2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 33 3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 35 6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 7. St. John to Bangor 37 8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 39 1. Kennebecasis Bay 40 2. Belleisle Bay 42 3. Fredericton ............. 44 4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 9. Washademoak Lake 47 10. Grand Lake 48 11. Fredericton to Woodstock 49 12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River ... 51 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . .53 vi CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 1. Tobique to Bathurst 54 2. The St. John to the Restigouche ....... 56 3. The Madawaska District ... * 57 4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 58 14. St. John to Shediac 59 15. The Bay of Chaledr and the North Shore of New Brunswick 60 1. Chatham to Shijjpigan 61 2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 3. Bathurst to Caraquette ^ 66 4. Campbellton to St. Flavie 69 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 70 1. Quaco. Sussex Vale . . . . . , . . .71 2. Albert County. Moncton to Quebec 72 3. Dorchester. SackviUe 73 NOVA SCOTIA. General Notes 75 17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax . . . . . . .78 1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 2. North Shore of Nova Scotia 81 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley ... 83 1. Annapolis Royal . 85 2. The Annapolis Valley 88 3. KentviUe to Chester 90 19. Halifax ■ . . . . 93 20. The Environs of Halifax 100 1 . Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant 100 21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or 103 2. The Basin of Minas 104 22. The Land of Evangeline 107 23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 1. The Clare Settlements 113 2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 24. DiGBY Neck .116 25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg 118 2. Liverpool 120 3. Shelburne 121 4. Cape Sable 123 26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route .... 126 1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 2. Chester to Liverpool . . 128 27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 28. Halifax to Tangier 131 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia T 133 30. Sable Island 134 CONTENTS. vii ROUTE PAGE 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictott 136 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 CAPE BKETON. General Notes 141 33. The Strait of Canso 142 34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton .... 146 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 38. The Fortress of Louisbourg ...*..... 154 39. The North Shore of Cape Breton 158 1. St. Anne's Bay . 158 2. St. Paul's Island .160 40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 1. Baddeck 162 2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 41. Baddeck to Mabod and Port Hood 167 1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton 168 1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. General Notes 172 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 1. The Northumberland Strait 174 44. PicTou TO Prince Edward Island 175 45. Charlottetown 175 1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island . . . . . 177 1. Rustico. Summerside ' . 178 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 48. Charlottetown to Sour is . , . . . . . . . 182 49. The Magdalen Islands . . , 183 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 NEWFOUNDLAND. General Notes 187 51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 53. The Environs of St. John's 195 1. Portugal Cove. Eogie Bay. Torbay 195 54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 viii CONTENTS. ROUTE PAGE 1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland ,199 55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundland 200 1. Bonavista Bay 203 2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 56. St. John's to Conception Bay 206 57. Trinity Bay 208 58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 59. Placentia Bay 212 60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray .... 213 1. Fortune Bay 214 2. Hermitage Bay ^ 215 61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John . . . 216 1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 LABRADOR. General Notes 223 62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 1. The Moravian Missions 226 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle . , . 227 64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 1. The Mingan Islands 231 2. The Seven Islands . 232 ^5. Anticosti 234 PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. General Notes 235 66. PiCTou TO Quebec. The Coasts of Gasp^ 238 1. Paspebiac 240 2. Perc6 242 3. Gaspe 244 67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 1. Father Point. Rimouski SSO 2. Bic. Trois Pistoles 251 3. St. Anne de la Pocatiere. L'Islet 253 68. Quebec 255 1. Durham Terrace . 259 2. Jesuits' College. Basilica • . . 261 3. Seminary 262 4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts . . . . . . 266 6. The Lower Town 271 69. The Environs of Quebec . . . 276 1. Beauport. Montmorenci Falls 276 2. Indian Lorette 278 3. Ch5,teau Bigot. Sillery 280 4. Point Levi. Chaudiere Falls 282 CONTENTS. ix ROUTE PAGE 70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne ........ 283 1. The Falls of St. Anne 286 71. The Isle of Orleans 288 72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay Eiver .... 291 1. St. Paul's Bay 292 2. Murray Bay 294 3. Cacouna . . • 296 73. The Saguenay River 297 1. Tadousac 299 2. Chicoutimi .300 8. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John . . 301 4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity 303 74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. La-vvrence Eiver .... 305 75. Montreal 309 1. Victoria Square. Notre Dame 311 2. The GesiL St. Patrick's Church 313 3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary . \ . . . 314 4. Hotel Dieu. Mount RoyaL Victoria Bridge .... 316 76. The Environs of Montreal 318 1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet 318 2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga ....... 319 3. BelceU Mt. St. Anne . 320 Index to Localities 321 Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions .... 332 Index to Quotations \ 333 Index to Railways and Steamboats . . . . . . . 334 List of Authorities Consulted ......... 334 MAPS. 1. Map of the Maritime Provinces. 2. Map of Newfoundland and Labrador. 3. Map of the Acadian Land, 4. Map of the Saguenay River. 5. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River. PLANS OF CITIES. 1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 3. Quebec : between pages 2-54 and 255. 4. Montreal : between pages 308 and 309. ABBREVIATIONS. N. — North, Northern, etc. S. — South, etc. E. — East, etc. W. — West, etc. N. B. — New Brunswick. N. S. — Nova Scotia. N. F. — Newfoundland. Lab. — Labrador. P. E. L — Prince Edward Island. P. Q. — Province of Quebec. M. — mile or miles. r. — right. 1. — left. ft. — foot or feet. hr. — hour. miu. — minute or minutes. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. INTRODUCTIOK I. Plan of Tour. The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but few places in this region where the local attractions are of suflftcient inter- est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- gers are adapted to make sach a sojourn pleasant. The historic and scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- out the country, affording Trare opportunities for journeys whose general course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes in the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the English settlements are quaintly ultra- Anglican (in the secular sense of the word), and follow London as closely as possible in all matters of cos- tume, idiom, and social manners. All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a sunmier voyage both interesting and profitable. Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 1 ^ 2 INTRODUCTION. will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the country, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — Boston to St. John 1| days. St. John . . . 1 St. John to Annapolis and Halifax .... 2 Halifax . 1 Halifax to Sydney 1^ The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) . . .. . . 4 Quebec 3 Quebec to Boston 1 Failures to connect 3 21 days. To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- samaquoddy Bay, the St. John River, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg (in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay River. Either of these side-trips will take from two to four days. If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, are St. Andrews, Grand Manan, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick ; An- napolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia ; Baddeck, in Cape Breton ; and, perhaps, Summerside, in Prince Edward Island. At each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surround- ing scenery is attractive. II. Newfoundland and Labrador. Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from which France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the Banks. The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador INTRODUCTION. 3 coast by the steamship lines from Halifax to St. John's, N. F., and thence to Battle Harbor. This route takes a long period of time, though the expense is comparatively light ; and the accommodations on the steam- ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, which coasts along the entire S. shore of the. island, and runs down to Sydney, C. B., once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The "Western Outports steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- nightly. Sea-Sickness. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the invigoration of the bracing air of the nortliern sea. Persons who are liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewards are neither as numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against the mal du mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of Labrador. The chief rule, to which the others are but corollaries, is. Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon feel ill at ease in his limgs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting vicissitudes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep on deck as much as possible, warmly wrapped up, and inhaling the salty air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the funnel, where the smell of oil is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. INTRODUCTION. m. Money and Travelling Expenses. The tourist will experience great inconvenience from the lack of a uni- form currency in the Provinces. If he carries New-Brunswick money into Nova Scotia or Quebec, it can only be passed at a discount ; and the same is true with Nova Scotia or Quebec bills in either of the other Provinces. Dominion notes for small amounts are in circulation. To save frequent discounts, it is best for the tourist to carry notes of the Bank of Montreal, or IT. S. money, changing it, in each Province, for the amount )f local currency that he will be likely to need there. Respectable shop-keepers in the cities take U. S. money in payment for their goods, valuing it at the rate at which it is quoted on the local exchange. It is, however, more economical and convenient to take the U. S. money to an exchange oflSce and buy as much of the local currency as will be needed during the so- journ. The shop-keepers are apt to charge at least full prices to people who have American monej'. Canada bills are issued for one and two dollars. American silver is very unstable in its valuation, since a 25-cent piece goes for from 20 to 24 cents in the same city and on the same day, the rate of exchange apparently depending on the time of day and the mood of the shop-keeper. Nova-Scotian or Canadian money is held at a heavy discount in New- foundland, and it is better to carry greenbacks there. IV. Sailways and Steamboats. The new-bom railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not yet burdened by such a pressure of trafl&c as to render travelling in any way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- ficiently comfortable. On most trains there are no accommodations for smokers, and, generally, when any such convenience exists, it is only to be had in the second-class cars. Pullman cars were introduced on the Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and will probably be retained there during the summer seasons. They have been used on the European and North American road for some years. There are restaurants at convenient dis- tances on the lines, where the trains stop long enough for passengers to take their meals. The narrow-gauge cars on the Prince Edward Island Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular construction. The tourist has choice of three grades of accommodation INTRODUCTION. 5 on the chief railways, — Pullman car, first-class, and second-class. The latter mode of travelling is very uncomfortable. The steamships which ply along these coasts aiford material for a naval museum. At least two vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports fleet were captured blockade-runners ; the Edgar Stuart was one of the most daring of the Cuban supply-ships, and was neaiiy the cause of a battle between the Spapish steamer Tornado and the U. S. frigate Wyoming, in the harbor of Aspinwall ; the M. A . Starr was built for a British gunboat ; it is claimed that the Virgo was intended for a U. S. man-of-war ; and there are several other historic vessels now engaged in these peaceful pursuits. Good accommodations are given on the vessels which ply between Boston and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Ed- ward Island. The cabins of the Quebec and Gulf Ports steamships are elegantly fitted np, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accom- modations, and the Yarmouth and North Shore vessels are also fairly equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the trans- portation of freight, and for successfully encountering rough weather and heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Saguenay steam- ers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine accommodations. Since the Canadas are under the English social system and have retained the Old- World customs, it will be found expedient, in many cases, to conciliate the waiters and stewards by small gifts of money. As the results thereof, the state-rooms will be better cared for, and the meals will be more promptly and generously served. The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- oquent titles of "Royal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Route," and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- pectations ; being, in most cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- times drawn by but one horse, and usually unprovided with covers. The fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good rate of speed is usually kept up. V. Eound-Tyip Excursions. During .the summer and early autumn the railway and steamship com- panies publish lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Infoi-mation and lists of these routes may be obtained of Lucius Tuttle, General Pas- senger Agent of the Eastern R. R., Boston; "W. H. Kilby, of the In- ternational Steamship Co., Boston; and Leve & Alden, Passenger Agents, 6 INTRODUCTION. 15 State Street, Boston, and 207 Broadwaj', New York. Small books are issued every spring by these companies, each giving several hundred combinations of routes, with their prices. They may be obtained on application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned offices. The excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privileges of first-class tickets. The following tours, selected from the books of the three companies, will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense incurred in a trip from Boston through the best sections of the Mr,ritime Provinces. INTERNATTONAL STEAMSHIP CO. Halifax Bound Trip Excursion. — Boston to St. John by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers. Fare, $18. Three Provinces Excursion. — Boston to St. John by International Steam- ship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to Pictou by Intercolonial Railway ; Pic- tou to Charlottetown by P. E. I. Steamers ; Charlottetown to Summerside by P. E. I. Railway ; Summerside to Shediac by P. E. I. Steamers ; Shediac to St. John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers. Fare, $ 22. Eastport Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and return, by International Steam< ship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, $ 7.50. St. John Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and St. John, and return, by Inter- national Steamship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, $ 8.50. EASTERN RAILROAD. Grand Falls, N. B., and Betum, via Fredericton. Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Vanceboro' European and North American R'y. Vanceboro' to Wood.stock New Brunswick and Canada R'y. Woodstock to Grand Falls New Brunswick Railway. Grand Falls to Gibson (opposite Frederic- ton) New Brunswick Railway. Fredericton to Fredericton Junction Fredericton Railway. Fredericton Junction to Vanceboro' St. John and Maine Railway. Vanceboro' to Ba»gor European and North American Railway. Bangor to Portland Maine Central Railroad. Portland to Boston Eastern Railroad. Hate from Boston $ 19. Halifax, N. S., and Betum. Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Vanceboro' European and North American R'y. Vanceboro' to Carleton St. John and Maine Railway. Carleton to St. John Ferry. St. John to Annapolis.... Union Line Steamers. Annapolis to Halifax Windsor and Annapolis Railway. Return same route. Kate from Boston $ 21.75. Halifax, JV^ S., and Betum, via Quebec and Montreal. Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. Bangor to Vanceboro' European and North American, R'y. Vanceboro' to Carleton St. John and Maine Railway. INTRODUCTION. 7 Carleton to St. John Ferry. St. John to Halifax Intercolonial Railway. Halifax to Quebec Intercolonial Railway. Quebec to Montreal .Grand Trunk Railway. Montreal to Portland Grand Trunk Railway. Portland to Boston Eastern Railroad. Kate from Boston $ 40.50. The route-book of the Boston & Maine Railroad may be obtained by- sending to the General Passenger Agent, D. J. Flanders, Boston. The prices of its excursion-tickets are about the same as those of the Eastern Railroad. VI. Hotels. The hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age, and thereby the pleasure of a journey in this beautiful region is greatly lessened for the sybaritic Americans. The general rates at the better ho- tels of the second-class is :g 2 a day ; and the village inns and country tav- erns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. 'VII. Language. The English language will be found sufficient, unless the tourist desires to visit the more remote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, but 'English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole families, not one of whom can speak English. In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on. the North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is nearly unknown. The relation of this language to the polite French speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently stigmatized by Americans as "an unintelligible patois.'' This state- ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. 8 INTRODUCTION. This language has an extensive and interesting literature, which in- cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also numerous newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of the Dominion and Provincial Parliaments, and sj)eeches and pleadings in French are allowable before the Parliaments and courts of Canada. Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has travelled much in Old France. But if the language is unknown to him, he will be subjected to many inconveniences and hardships. VIII. Climate and Dress. The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and uncertain than that of New England. The extremes of heat and cold are much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, as Marmier expresses it, this region "combines the torrid climate of southern regions with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and severe, but ex- ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three months of fog," the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. These statements are not borne out by the facts ; and, though Nova Scotia and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest weather is surpassed by the winters of the Northwestern States. The meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people pi'ove that the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- boreans, and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and brood over the cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen ■underclothing should be kept at hand. IX. Fishing. " Anglers in the United States who desire to fish a salmon-river in the Dominion of Canada should club together and apply for the fluvial parts INTRODUCTION. 9 of rivers The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised by the gov- ernment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those tendering for fishings are not considered in letting a river ; and if a gen- tleman from the States overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. Parties who desire to lease a Canadian river should address a letter to the Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how many rods they have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, upon which they should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to six hundred dollars a year for from thi-ee to eight rods, and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's " Fishing in American Waters.") ''The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by Robert B, Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-145; the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. " Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower Quebec. " Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental allusions to the provincial fisheries. "The Fishing Tourist," by Charles Hallock (published by Harper and Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- nay and Lower St. Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. IX. Miscellaneous Notes. The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change every season. The tourist can find full particulars of the days of sailing, etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspa- pers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given here- 1* 10 INTEODUCTION. inafter, and further information may be obtained by writing to their addresses. The custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon the actual laws than upon the men who execute them. The examination of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods oflFered them by shop-keepers, since tlie lavish and unquestioning extravagance of American tourists has somewhat influenced the tone of commercial morality. The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed and honest. EOUTES FEOM BOSTOIT TO THE MAEITIME PROYIJSrCES. 1. By Railway. The Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines form the usuul mode of ap- proach by land. Their trains leave the terminal station on Causeway St., Boston, and run through to-Bangor, without change of cars. Pullman cars ai*e attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of the European & North American R. R., which runs E. through the great forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St. John. Between Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, with frequent glimpses of the sea; but the country between Bangor and St. John is almost devoid of attractions. The Boston cf Maine R. R. may also be used as an avenue to the Eastern Provinces, connecting at Portland with the lines to the Eastward, with good accommodations and swift trains, parlor cars, and other first-class accommodations. This route is identical with the preceding, beyond Portland. 2. By Steamship. The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times weekly from June 15 to October 1, leaving Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 8 A. M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, which is left at 6 p. m. ; and afterwards they run along the Mtiine coast, calling at Eastport and traversing Passamaquoddy Bay. Fares, — from Boston to Eastport, $5; to St. John, $5.50. The Nova Scotia S. S. Co. {Clements' Line) affords the most convenient route to visit the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the western coun- ties of Nova Scotia. Their steamships leave T Wharf, Boston, once a week, for Yarmouth, Lunenburg, and Lockport, giving an exhilarating voyage across the open sea. Another stanch vessel of this line plies reg- ularly between Boston, Digby, and Annapolis (22 hours at sea). 12 FEOM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PEOVINCES. The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line de-. spatch vessels from Nickerson's Wharf, Boston, every Saturday. After reaching Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, round Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso. They call at Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at Port Hawkesburv, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other parts of the island of Cape Breton. These vessels connect at Halifax ^Yith. the railways for Windsor, etc., and the Newfoundland steamships; and Port Hawkesbury Avith the Bras d'Or steamers; and at Pictou with the steamships of the Quebec S. S. Co., for Quebec and Montreal. 3. Routes hy way of Montreal and Quebec. Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the Mon- treal & Boston Short Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Eastern and Grand Trunk Lines. These routes are all described in Osgood's New England: a Handbook for Travellers. The most picturesque route from Quebec to the Maritime Provinces is by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company, which leave every week for the eastern ports of Quebec and Nova Scotia, connecting with the local lines of travel . The Intercolonial Railway extends around from Quebec to St. John and Halifax, but rims through a desolate region. 4. Newfoundland. Passengers bound for the remoter East, for Newfoundland or Labrador, will find the best accommodations on the steamships of the Allan Line, which run from Halifax and Baltimore to St. John's, N. F. (and thence to Liverpool, etc.). The smaller vessels of the Cromwell Line (from New York) and the Acadian Line (from Montreal) also run to St. John's. Further pai*ticulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days on which they depart for Boston, etc., may be found in their advertise- ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The main question for the summer tourist Avill naturally be whether he shall go eastAvard by rail or by a short sea-voyage. The Editor has travelled on each of the above-mentioned lines (with one exception) and on some of them several times, and has found them well equipped and comfortable. MARITIME-PROymCES HANDBOOK. NEW BRUNSWICK. The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 ]M. from N. to S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great bays and in the Guif are of immense value, employing many thousand men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 vessels have been built in this Province, valued at neaidy $80,000,000. The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and the product amounts to $4,000,000 a year. The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. and W. There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. John, Restigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese ; but farming operations are still carried on in an antiquated and unscientific manner. The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the winter, 17^°; spring, 37;^"'; summer, 58°; autumn, 44|°. The thermom- 14 NEW BEUNSWICK. eter ranges between —22° and 87° as the extremes marked during the past ten years. The present domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by two distinct nations of Indians. The Micmacs were an offshoot of the Algon- quin race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. They were powerful and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milicetes were from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland forests, being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcraft. They were less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of quaint mythological legends. This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), which was granted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, in 1603. De Monts explored the St. John River, and planted an ephemeral colony on the St. Croix, in 1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. John River was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Charnisay. Oliver Cromwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; but it was restored to France by Charles II. in 1670. After the war of 1689 - 97, this region was again confirmed to France, and its W. boundary was located at the St. George River, W. of Penobscot Bay. Meantime the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been set- tled by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New-Englanders invaded the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia was ceded to England. The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line of the Missiguash River, to protect the domains to the N. In 1755 a naval expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. John; and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troops. In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during the Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the country by the British fleets at Halifax. At the close of the war many thousands of American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoin- ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Province, having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia; and in 1788 the capi- tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain now commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. In 1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the boundary disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troops on account of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trent affair. In 1865 New Brunswick refused, by a popular vote, to enter the Dominion of Canada, but it accepted the plan the next year, and became a part of the Dominion in 1867. The population of New Brunswick was 74,176 in 1824, 154,000 in 1840, 285,777 in 1871, and 321,233 in 1881. Duffinn. New V/eteria. ST. JOHX. Route 1. 15 1. St. John. Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the steamer runs in by Partridge hcand, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the upland are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the light- house, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Negrotown Point, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon- light (I. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed St. Jude's Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks of the Mili- tary Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. Hotels. — The Hotel Dufferin, at the corner of Charlotte St. and King Square, is the best (.^ 2.50 a day). The Now Victoria is a good hotel, on Princess St., near Germain St. The Park Hotel is'on the N. E. side of King's Square, and several smaller houses of varying grades are in the same vicinity. The Waverley is on King St., and is an old-fashioned British public-house. Ainusementsjj— Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- quently given at the Academy of Music, on Germain St, near Duke St. The Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Lectures and concerts are given in the hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St. Reading- Rooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlotte St., near King Square ; open from 9 A. M. until 10 p. M. The Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, lOc for each additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed the passenger pays the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c. by the bridge. Omnibuses run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown. Railways. — The St. John and Maine Railway runs W. to Bangor in 206 M., connecting there with the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 449 M. from St. John. The same road also has a branch to Fredericton. The Intercolonial Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec. Steamships. — The Temperley and other lines run steamships occasionally between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The International Steamship Com- pany despatch their sea- worthy vessels from St. John for Boston, touching at East- port and Portland, and connecting with steamers for St. Andrews, St. Stephen, Calais, and Grand Manan. In Jan. and Feb. they leave St. John on Thursdays; from March to July, and from Sept. 22 to Jan , they leave on Mondays and Thurs- days ; and July, Aug., and early Sept., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Sail- ing time, 8 a.m. Fare to Boston, .'^ 5.50. Time, St, John to Eastport, 4 hrs. ; to Portland, 19 hrs.; to Boston, 27 hrs. The Annapolis steamers cross the Bay of Fundy to Digby and Annapolis several times weekly, at 8 a.m., connecting at An- napolis with the railway for Halifax. During .some seasons, steamers run from St. John to Yarmouth, to the Basin of Minas (Parrsboro' and Windsor), and to St. Andrews, and St. Stephen, The railway to St. Stephen is finished, St. John River Lines. — The steamers of the Union Line leave Indiantown daily at 9 A. M , for Fredericton and the intermediate landings Three times a week there is a night-boat, leaving at 5 P. m., for Fredericton and the intermediate land- ings. The Fawn leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 a. m , for Gagetown and Grand Lake. Boats to the Washademoak Lake are uncertain. The Carleton ferry-steamers leave the foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes until 9.30 p M. Fare, 3 c. ; for one-horse carriages, 9 c ; for two-horse carriages, 15 c. 16 Route 1. ST. JOHN. St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation for the purposes of commerce it has been termed "the Liverpool of Canada," and claims the proud position of the fourth port of the British Empire, next after London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. The city has 26,127 inhabitants (census of 1881), and the contiguous city of Portland has 15,227 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, through which streets have been cut at great expense ; and the plan of the streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneven and dingy, owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of paint. Tlie harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves and mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is barren but picturesque, and affords a variety of pleasing marine views. The fire department has 3 steam-engines, but is seldom called into service. There are 41 churches in St. John and Portland, of which the Church of England claims prece- dence in point of numbers. There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several weekly papers. Kinri Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal shops are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince William St., which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary and self-exiled Amei'ican Loyalists, in 1783, and founded the city of St. John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shops, and several banks and hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt district. King Square is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with trees, and adorned in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was adorned with a pretentious triumphal arch, erected in honor of Prince Arthur's visit, and afterwards utilized for sustaining the fire-alann hell. The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on Charlotte St.) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. to 10 p. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and ST. JOHN. JimUel. 17 was dedicated in 1872, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Coiirt House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated and liomely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burning-Ground, con- taining the graves of the pioneers of the province, with epitaphs in many cases quaint and interesting. Trinity Church extends frdm Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Prin- cess St., and is the finest church-building in the Maritime Provinces, being massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest of the hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Eoyal Arms from Trinity Church, New York, brought here by the Loyalists in 1783. This venerable building was destroyed in the great fire of 1877. Not far from Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly new edifice of brick. The publishing house of the McMillans is on an adjacent street, with its printing-office and book-stoi-e,^ By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, — a carelessly kept park surrounded with dwelling-houses. A short dis- tance to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institu- tion, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Prov- ince, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, with a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- tary bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton ferry is seen to the r. The * Post-Office is an elegant building of gray sandstone, at the corner of Princess St. ; opposite which is the new City Hall, a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New Brunswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- cinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several millions' worth of property in St. John, swept this district clean, and many elegant new buildings have since arisen. The * Custom House is of creamy Dorches- ter sandstone, costing $250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and two tall towers for the time-ball, the shipping signals, and the storm- drum. It contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm- signal station which receives warnings from " Old Probabilities " at Wash- 18 Route 1. ST. JOHN. ington. The street ends at Reed's Pointy the headquarters of several lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of the Military Grounds. At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Churchy a sanctuary of the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presb}-- terian); and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- chanics' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British newspapers, and the library contains about 7, GOO volumes (open from 2^ to 5 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the railway station in the Valley. The Eoman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over the organ-loft ; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. wide at the transepts. The Bishop'' s Palace is the fine sandstone building towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnei*y, the great marble bas-relief of the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan). From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Cliff St. for a short distance, a point may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Eeed's Castle is prominent. The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St, It consists of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of $ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in remote ages the St. John Eiver flowed down this valley from the Kenne- becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows was opened by some convulsion of nature. ST. JOHN. Route 1. 1 9 That suburb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Sts., and contains the tracks and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in the Valley Is St. PauVs Church (Episcopal), a graceful wooden edifice with transepts, a clere-story, and a tall spire. The windows are of stained glass. The brick church of St. Stephen and the white Zion Church (Reformed Episcopal) are also situated in the Valle}'', and the road to Lily Lake di- verges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the E., on the City Road, is the Skating Rink, a round wooden building, 160 ft. in diameter, covered with a domed roof. This is the favorite winter resort of the aristocracy of St. John, and strangers can gain admission only by introduction from one of the directors. The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where the divine Glooscap once had his home. Hence, during his absence, his attendants "were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who tied with them to Grand Manan, Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Glooscap, who rode much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head. The evil- doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Glooscap were set free. The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's Day (June 2i), 1604, but was not occupied for 30 years after. Claude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earliest of the French adven- turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. After his repulse and humiliation (see Route 25), the French government divided Acadia into three provinces, placing there as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude). Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd'Aul- nay Charnisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIII. finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John in 1634, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1643 this stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the ship Clement, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor with 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour ; while, on the other hand, it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would bo allow-ible for them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- nay's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side (the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Island). After three days of fighting a treach- erous Swiss sentry admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then Madame La Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 20 Route 1, ST. JOHN. terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror (1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom entered the French army, and were slain in the service. In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696. while the Chevalier de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked by D'Iberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured the Profond^ with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan : but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery. In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned by French soldiers, but, after a short siege by an Anglo-American force, the post was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place wa.s visited by James Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'' In 1764 he returned with a party of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old French fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived in the port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled '"United Empire Loyalists," Americans who were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. John. New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was by their closing fore ed to draw heavil}' on the American Provinces. The last his- toric event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent affair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to prosper in the arts ot peace and industry. " Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- ments of the territoi'y to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and solid English culture ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for a day, says it is naught." (AVarner's Baddeck.) The great exodus to the United States has recently seriously reduced the popula- tion of St. John, and all the Eastern Provinces. In October, 1883, St. John cele- brates its centennial anniversary, b^ a grand Dominion-of-Canada Exhibition. ST. JOHN. Route L 21 St. John. 1647. " To the winds give our banner I Bear homeward again ! " Cried the Lord of Acadia, Cried Charles of Estienne ; From the prow of his shallop He pazed, as the sun, From its bed in the ocean. Streamed up the St. John. O'er the blue western waters That shallop had passed, "Where the mists of Penobscot Clun^ damp on her mast. St. Savior had looked On the heretic sail. As the songs of the iluguenot Rose on the gale. The pale, ghostly fathers Remembered her well. And had cursed her while passing, With taper and bell. But the men of Monhegan, Of Papists abhorred. Had welcomed and feasted The heretic Lord. They had loaded his shallop With dun-fish and ball, With stores for his larder, ' And steel for his wall. Pemequid, from her bastions And turrets of stone. Had welcomed his coming With banner and gun. And the prayers of the elders Had followed his way, As homeward he glided Down Pentecost Bay. O, well sped La Tour ! For, in peril and pain, His lady kept watch For his coming again. 0"er the Isle of the Pheasant The morning sun shone. On the ulane-trees which shaded The shores of St. John. " Now why from yon battlements Speaks not my love? Why waves there no banner My fortress above ? " Dark and wild, from his deck St. Estienne gazed about, On fire-wasted dwellings, And silent redoubt ; From the low shattered walls Which the flame had o'errun, There floated no banner. There thundered no gun. But beneath the low arch Of its doorway there stood A pale priest of Rome, In his cloak and his hood. With the bound of a lion La Tour sjiranp to lond. On the throat of the Papist He fastened his hand. " Speak, son of the Woman Of scarlet and sin I What wolf has been prowling My castle within ? " From the grasp of the soldier The Jesuit broke. Half in scorn, half in sorrow, He smiled as he spoke : " No wolf. Lord of Estienne, Has ravaged thy hall. But thy red-hand.ed rival. With fire, steel, and balll On an errand of mercy I hitherward came. While the walls of thy castle Yet spouted with flame. " Pentagoet's dark vessels Were moored in the bay, Grim sca-lioiis, roaring Aloud for their preyl" *' But what of my lady 'i " Cried Charles of Estienne. " On the shot-crumbled turret Thy lady was seen : " Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, Her hand grasped thy pennon, While her dark tresses swayed In the hot breath of cannon 1 But woe to the heretic. Evermore woe! When the son of the church And the cross is his foe 1 "In the track of the shell. In the path of the ball, Pentagoet swept over The breach of the wall! Steel to steel, gun to pun, (Jne moment, — and then Alone stood the victor. Alone with his men! " Of Its sturdy defenders, Thy lady alone Saw tlie cross-bill zoned banner Float over St. John." " Let the dastard look to it I " Cried fiery Estienne, "Were D Aulnay King Louis, 1 d free her again 1 " " Alas for thy lady I No service from thee Is needed by her Whom the Lord hath set free : Nine days, in stern silence. Her thraldom she bore. But the tenth morning came. And Death opened her door I " As if suddenly smitten. La Tour staggered back : His hand grasjjed his sword-hilt. His forehead grew black. He sprang on the deck Of his shallop again, "We cruise now for vengeance I Give way 1 " cried Estienne. " Massachusetts shall hear Of tne Huguenot s wrong. And from island and creekside Her fishers shall throng ! Pentagoet shall rue What his Papists have done. When his palisades echo The Puritans gun ! " O, the loveliest of heavens Hung tenderly o er him. There were waves in the sunshine. And green isles before him : But a pale hand was beckoning The Huguenot on ; And in blackness and ashes Behind was St. John ! John G. Whiiiisb. 22 Route S. THE ENVIEONS OF ST. JOHN. 2. The Environs of St. John. * Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- ing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rural estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high rocky banks. The environs are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vita and evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one side to the Lily Lake Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. The Marsh Road is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed of the St. John River. At IJ M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunda}'). This is a pleasant ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rock}' knolls, and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old (but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number of sailors. 1^ M. beyond the Cemeterj'- the Marsh Road passes the Three- Mile House and Moosepath Park, a half-mile course which is much used for hoi'se-racing, especially during the month of August. 3 - 4 M. farther on (with- the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., with the high cliff called the Minister'' s Face on the farther shore. Pass- ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station i^ Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort for its citizens. Many people go- out to the lake on Saturday and remain there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and passes near the Silver Falls, a pr^^ty cascade on Little River (whence the THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route 2. 23 city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and Dalzell's is 3-4 M. be- yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are funaished at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third Lake is smaller than either of the others. " An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- rovrest part, afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its surface was calm and still ; heyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prof. Johnston. Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds ; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information may be obtained. The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenaj' Bay. The Poor House is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispech, traversing a diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract (which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Hoive's LaJce, a small but pretty forest-pond. The * Suspension Bridge is about IJ M. from King Square, and most of the distance may be traversed by omnibuses, passing through the city of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters of the St. John Eiver are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. The St. John E,iver is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 24: Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. ft. , and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level water at flood- tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost S 80,000. It is 640 ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but solid towers. Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shoi*e, is the Provincial Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick building with long Avings, situated in pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation i-enders it a prominent object in approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected in 1848, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored by the British War Office. Many of these woi-ks may be seen along the shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old guns still in position. The *yiew from this point is broad and beautiful, including St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its pi'etty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shoi-es of Nova Scotia (the North Mt.), with tiie deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, called the Digby Gut. The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old RedSaudstone epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamous plants are found. The Mahogany 1 Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of Sie Indian word Manawagonish, applied to the neighboring bay. CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 a St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. - Passamaquoddy reach Eastport (60 M di^taut^T WttutnJl^^^ I' J?iwa\,at 8 a, m., aud The Grand Southern Eailway runs from St. John to St. Stephen, 8G M y\ ., and It IS hoped that it may be extended down through Maine to 13an^ gor, crossing the frontier at Calais, and running around through the coast counties._ It is not yet perfect in route and equipment, and is content with runmng m a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled coast. The localities which it approaches are more particularly described on pages 31, 32, 33, 34, and 35 of this book. Djer's, 62 j ok Bay, 67 ; St 'Stephen, 82.' ' ^'- '^'°'^'' *^ ' ^^^^^^ ^'^'''> 58 ; After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy and soon passes Split Rock, and stretches across to Point Lepreau The peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the N., are spoken of in Route 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner • "A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forest^; — this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable circumstances." After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New England was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either dnftmg over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird eff^ect is caused by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense white clouds. Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r is Deer Isle a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a poor soi'l and no good harbors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the Bay of Fundy, on the other. 2 26 Route 3. EASTPORT. On the other side are the grandly picturesque headlands of Campobello, the island which has recently become so well known as an American sum- mer-resort, particularly affected by the best people of Boston and Cam- bridge. A more tl»rough account of this localitj^ is found on page 30 a, hereinafter. The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- bello Coir.panj% and was located at Harbor dc Lute, on Campobeilo Island It was named Warrington, but the Welebpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Lrxstport can only be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. 'VVamer in- dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the island of Campobello is an insufTerablo menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitive manner ? She might almost as well own Long Island. It was im.possiblc to prevent our cheeks mantling with shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I am not sure but the latter would be the better course." Eastport (^Passamaquodcly House, $2M a day; Island Rouse, $2) is an American border-town, on the coast of Maine, and has 4,200 inhabi- tants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of Moose Island, in Passaraaqiioddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its artillery. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the salt- water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the most convenient point from v'hich to reach Campobello, Grand IManan (see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. to Lubec [Lubec House, CohscooTc Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost toAvn of the United States. The purple cliflfs of Grand Manan are seen from Quoddy Head. EASTPORT. Routes. 27 In 1684 the Passamaquoddy islands were granted by the King of France to Jean Sarreau de St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col Church, consisting of 600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gosfiort, 32. They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigation, then returned 'and crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. They visited Moose Island and the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by its crew when a fair wind arose. In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the Indians on this bay and on -the St. John lliver; and in 1760 the tribes sued for peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. During the War of the Revolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loj'al to the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier ; but Massachusetts supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ;' ■while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain ; but Moose, Dudley and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. ' Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were raised, and a detachment of troops was sta- tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eliza Ann, was captured by the privateer Timothy Pickering: and sent into Eastport. She Avas followed by H. M. S. Martiii, whose comniander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by fho^Rami- lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. The river-steamboat, in ascending the baj, runs for some distance between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Syhaik) is seen on the 1. Here is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic, They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the Schoodic Lakes. The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pesmo-acadie, " pollock- place " Others say that Quoddy means "pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian Peskamaquonlilc, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies "it eoes Up into the open field." 28 Routed. GRAND MANAN. As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the West Isles are seen opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and far across, to the r., are the highlands about the Magaguadavic Eiver. After passing Navy Island, the boat rounds in at St. Andrews. St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 4. Grand Manan. This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached from Eastport (dviring fair winds), with which it has a mail communication. The Bummer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here (very likely from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the manj' fresh- water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for $ 4 - 7 a ■week. " As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. " As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- worthy, and American manners aud customs prevail to such an extent that travel- lers at once feel at home." (Db Costa.) The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose powerful tides sweep impetuously by its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road which connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their dar- ing and expertness in the fisheries. They have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 Free-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England); while the advantages of free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete self-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, " Happy Mananites, who, free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the gi-eat cliff's on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- plicity which usually pertains to small and insulated maritime communi- ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- ican marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesque cliffs and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian GRAND MANAN. Route If. 29 auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland and the coast of Maine. Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand Ponds. The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 1., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is called the Old Maid, from its rude resemblance to a colossal woman. About the S. W. Head is a favor- ite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the grass. A forest -path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7-8 M. loug, and is firm and well-made. 14 M. N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- turesque costumes, the breaking sui'f, and all the miscellaneous para- phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background of richly-colored cliff's, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn cliff's, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible for 17 M.) 148 ft. above the sea. Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minei'als. " Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 30 Routes. GEAND MANAN. beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- tween are the blue sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on board were lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this point, and near the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop^s Head, so called because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. The W. coast of Grand Manan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. These great precipices are 3-400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- tion at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A cart-track leads across the island from near Woodward's Cove to the ro- mantic scenery about Darh Cove ; near which is Money Cove, so named because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Passa- maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of por- poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling currents of Long's Eddy. " When the cliff is bronght out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, ■with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest. The low eastern shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his dinner." (De Costa.) " Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woods which beau- tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noble.) Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from these shores : " It is even asserted that at | of a league ofiF Isle Menane, which serves as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- ered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de Razilli broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys, who had seen it, says that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." "But, interesting as are all parts of this picturesque island, the climax of solitary ■wildness and grandeur is to be found only in the ' Great (or Gull) Cliffs,' at Southern Head. Landing from the Eastport steamer, either at Flagg's or at Woodward's Cove, let us charter an open vehicle and ride down the island. The smooth brown road skirts along the E. shore for the mo?t part, showing us in succession the half-dozen peaceful fi.shing-hamlets which contain its entire population, with their seven neat churches and their remarkably handsome and commodious schoolhouses. After 3 hrs. delightful drive, we arrive at 'Harvey's,' a very small but most home- like cottage inn. Alighting here, let us take the picturesque path that leads to the ' Great (or Gull) Cliffs.' For the first i M. the path takes us across elevated pasture-land, showing us the open sea upon three sides. For another quarter it plunges into a dense forest, and presently descends to the edge of the water, which it reaches at a little stony level known as ' Southern Head Beach.' Crossing this, and skirting the S. W. coast, we soon commence rising with the rising shore, until at the end of a short mile we emerge from the shrubbery to find ourselves on the top of ' Hay Point,' gazing perpendicularly down at the sea,, which dashes, at the CAMPOBELLO. Route 78. 30 a base of the cliff over which we lean, some 250 feet below! A few rods further on, anil we come to the new Southern Head Lighthouse. From hence for a mile fur- ther we pace along the deeply indented edge of this dizzy height, as upon a lofty esplanade, enjoying its solitary grandeur, enhanced by the wild screams of hun- dreds of circling sea gulls, until at last we arrive opposite the ' Old Maid.' " A stanch steaniboat runs between Eastport and Grand Manan, con- necting with the International steamships from Boston at Eastport, and crossing to the island in 2 lirs. There is a good pier at Flagg's Cove (iSTorth Head). Two small but comfortable hotels have been erected near North Head (the Marble-Ridge House); and Grand Manan has latterly grown rapidly in public favor. A submarine cable runs hence to Eastport. There are 5 telegraph-offices on the island. There are also several livery stables, and good roads. Complete immunity from hay-fever is enjoyed here. Myriads of gulls and stormy petrels breed on the adjacent islets. 78. Campobello. Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. The O^ven is an Eesthetic summer-hotel, composed of the old Owen mansion, devoted to office, billiard-room, bitchen, and dining-room, and the main building, a huge modern erection, containing parlors and chambers, and connected with the old mansion by a long open corridor. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly laid out, and contain the old porter's lodge, sun-dial. Lovers' Lane, and the Admiral's hawthorn hedges. The Tyn-y-Cr>edcl (House in the Wood) is another large summer-hotel, per- taining to the Campobello Company, and devoted mainly to the accommodation of families, being quieter and more secluded than the Owen. Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, Ij'ing off the Bay of Fundy, and pertaining to the Province of ISTew Brunswick. It has 1,160 inhabi- tants, most of whom live in two villages, — WeU hjjool, on a pretty harbor to the N., and Wilson's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. shore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently burned their houses and schooners, but were finally obliged to allow them to stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended by new highways opened by the Campobello Compniy, and afford beauti- ful drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evergreen forests, and out on sea-beaten promontories. There are a few profitable farms on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens ; but the chief source of income is the fishing business. The Episcopal Church is ultra-Anglican, with its imported vicar praying for the Queen and all the Royal Family, with the usual English intonation ; its great chancel-carpet, embroidered by the ladies of New Brunswick, with the three feathers of the Prince of Wales; and its rich altar-cloths, pre- sented by Sister Portia, Admiral Owen's granddaughter. The only other church on the island is Baptist. The chief local holidays are the Queen's Birthday and Dominion Day (July 1). Glea Severn (the ancient Herring Cove) is a lovely cove on the outer 30 h Route 78. CAMPOBELLO. shore, with brilliant-hued pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous lake of fresh water. Friar'' s Head, within 1^ M. of the Owen, is a rocky pillar in the sea, off cliffs 146 ft. high, and badly battered by artillery. Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lighthouses at the ends of the island, and other interesting points, are visited by summer-sojourners. The west- ern side of Campobello fronts on the beauties of Passamaquoddy Bay, around which appear Lubec, Eastport, and other white villages, with the purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. Campobello, the ancient Passamaquoddy Island, was granted by the British Crown to Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen in 1767, and that gentleman and his heirs, of a noble nayal family, occupied the domain for moi-e than a hundred years. Tne Admiral built a quarter deck over the rocks, oh which he used to promenade in full uniform. He was buried by candle-light, in the churchyard of the little Epi.-copal church, where his descendants have since followed him. There are num- berless quaint legends of the old regime here ; of Sir Robert Peel's visit, and the advent of Britis.h frigates ; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparitions, and other marvels. After Admiral Owen died, the estate fell to his son-in-law, Captain Robinson, of the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and settled upon the island. Tliere was great excitement here in 1866, when many armed Irish patriots came to Eastport, apparently with a design of invading Campobello, and twisting the tail of the British lion. The island was nearly deserted by its inhabitants ; British frig- ates and American cutters cruised in the adj-icent waters ; St. Andrews and St. Stephen were garri.^oned by British troops; and General Meade occupied Eastport with a detachment of United States regulars. The last of the Owens moved to Eng- land, tired of the monotonous life of the old manor-house, and in 1880 Campobello was purchased by a syndicate of Boston and New York capitalists, to be made into a summer-resort. Besides the great hotels, many summer-cottages and villas are being erected here by well-known famihes from Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. The new development of this remote island as a summer-resort has been rapid and secure, and already Campobello bids fair to become a formidable rival of Mount Desert, in a fashionable point of view, although its scenery is in almost every Avay inferior. The novel and original architecture and equipments of the great hotels, and the attractiveness of their grounds and surroundings combine with the insular and provincial quaintnesses of the islanders to make a sojourn here very interesting. BAY OF FUNDY. Routed. 31 After leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9J M., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The course is laid well out in the Bay of Fundy, which " wears a beautiful aspect in fine summer weather, — a soft chalky hue quite different from the stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- ing the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond the point of Split Rock, Musquash Harbor is seen opening to the N. It is a safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the pretty Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the course is W. \ S. for \\\ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper w^as wrecked, with a large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by lobster-fishers. Point Leqyrecm is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. The traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- ing shores. " Two very different impressions in regard to the Province of New Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, awaken in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty and barrenness appear neces- sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel tlirovigh the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition of its roads." (Prof. J. F. W. Johnston, P. R. S.) From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly W. for 16^ M. to Bliss Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this harbor, and seen on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- ship Company was wrecked here two or three years ago. One of the Wolves bears a revolving light, 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and to the N. is seen the entrance to V Etang Harbor, a deep and picturesque inlet which is well sheltei'ed by islands, the largest of which is called Cai- tiff. A few miles S. W. are seen the rolling hills of Campobello; Deer Island is nearer, on. the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking hummocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and Spruce Islands, the grim trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. They are known as the West Isles, and most of them are inhabited by hard-working fishermen. 32 Route 5. ST. GEORGE. St. George (three inns), a village of 1,200 inhabitants devoted to the lumber and granite trades, is at the head of the tide, 4 M. from the ship- harbor below, and stands on both sides of the Magaguadavic, at the Lower Falls, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and falls about 50 ft. These falls in several steps furnish a water-power un- surpassed in Canada, and along the sides of the gorge, clinging to the rocks like eagles' nests, are several mills in which lumber and granite are manufactured. Geologists have found in this vicinity marked evidences of the action of icebergs and glaciers. The gorge through which the waters rush with an almost Niagara roar has been caused by some convulsion of nature, which in its mighty throes rent the cliffs asunder, giving vent to what must have been a great lake above. This district has become cele- brated for its production of a fine granite of a rose-red color which receives a high polish, and is extensively used for ornamental columns and monu- ments. It is pronounced by competent judges to be superior to the Scotch granite of Peterhead (popularly called "Aberdeen Granite"), and is beautifully tinted. The construction of the Grand Southern Eailway affords improved facilities for visiting this interesting locality. " The Tillage, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated -wilderness to the N., render this part of the country peculiarly picturesque ; indeed, the neighborhood of St. George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller •with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) liake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression, along -whose slopes ledges of red gr;-nite crop out. It is about 1 M. from St. George, and 6 M. long, and connects -with the Magaguada-vic River 3 M. above the village, by a natural canal 1 M. long, -which is -well bordered by magnificent forest trees, and furnishes a beautiful resort for boating parties, sportsmen, and anglers eoi route to the Lake. The earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient and mysterious temple, all traces of -which "have now passed away. Here also was found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likeness to Washington. This re- markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told mai'vellous stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft. long. The lake abounds in silvery -graj' trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moose were formerly abundant in this region, and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- tlers, and ^Yill soon Ibecome extinct in this district. The Magaguadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning " The River of the Hills ") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N. W., within a short portage of the Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. Jchn. Traversing the great Lake of Magaguadavic it descends through an uninhabited and barren highland region, tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggly hole." Much of its lower valley is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottom. The river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Ilarvey and Magaguadavic settlements. After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island on the S., and other bold hummo#ks on either side. On the N. are the ST. ANDREWS., Route 5. 33 estuaries of the Digdeguash and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge of the Chamcook Mt. St. Andrews {Central Exchange, $1.50 a day), the capital of Chariotte County, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix River, which is here 2 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity was ended by the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating, fishing, and excur- sions. St. Andrews was once strongly fortified by the British Government, and some remains of these works, still exist. It is hoped that the Canadian Pacific Railway, which is now building across Maine, from Lake Megan- tic by Moosehead, will make its chief winter-port here. Fogs are very rare; summer nights are cool; and the environs are lovely. The town is laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good order. The roads are excellent for driving, and from many points give picturesque views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- ord ofiice, and marine hospital; and there are a number of neat private residences, including that of Sir Leonard Tilley, K. C. B., Finance Min- ister of the Dominion. Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist, Roman Catholic, and Church of England. The "Argvll" a large structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened in 1881 as a summer-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- venient to the beaches, where the facilities for sea-bathing are unrivalled. Trains of the New Brunswick Railway run to and from St. Andrews, connecting with trains for Woodstock, Iloulton, St. John, Bangor, Portland, and Boston. Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland and Boston. The Chamcook Mt. is about 4 M. N. of St. Andrew, and its base is reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the mountain). It is often ascended by. parties for the sake of the view, which includes "the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village of Robbinston is seen, on the American shore. On the r. the bold bluffs of 34 Routes. ST. CROIX RIVER. Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional farm-houses are seen along the shores. 6-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the E. side of Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been ei-ected by the Ameri- can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay Shore. In the year 1604 Henri TV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- delphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which is said to be derived from a local Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of im- pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. .After exploring parts of Nova Scotia and the Bay of Fundy, the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died of the scurvy during the winter; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in June, the island was abandoned. " It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by (from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so far as to find it. There are three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the sides ; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair and admirable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with some men of good sort, not to winter there, but as it were to .eeek out his seat, and find out a land that might like him. AVhich he having done, had no need to sojourn there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and hoary snowy father being come, that is to say, Winter, then they were forced to keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which was in tlie said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the continual ■watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them, much more than of infidels." (Lescarbot's Noi/velle France.) In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long searching among the bushes and jungle, the boundary -commissioners succeeded in finding remnants of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the line. About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded b}' bold hills, and forming a benutiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by the river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the bay is the populous farming-village of Oah Bay, with three churches. Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called DeiiPs Head (from one Duval, who formerly lived there), the^ourse is laid to the N. W., in a narrow ST. STEPHEN.' Route 5. 35 channel, between ster'^^ ^^^^^^^^ 2-3 M. above is the antiauated marine hamlet called The Le ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^.^^^^^ inhabitants are depend- ent on the sea for thc^.^ j.^,.^^_ ^ ^^ ^^^^^,^ ^^^.^ .^^ ^^^^ ^^g^,^,^, reaches her dock at St. Stepl " en. St. Stephen (<2we^ Hotel) is an active and enterprising provincial town, situated at ^[^^^^^^^ ^f navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite the American citv ^^ ^^^^.^^ r^^^ population is about 5,000, with 6 churches, 1 uewsi:! ^^^ 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is mostly connected ';^..^^' ^^^ j^^nufacture and shipment of lumber. The falls of the river . ^ ^^^.^ ^^.^^ ^.^.^ ^ valuable water-power, which will probably be devotea ^^ ^^^^^^.^^ manufacturing purposes after the lumber supply begins to fail. . , ^^^.^^^^ ^^-^^^^^ connects St. Stephen with Calais {The American House ; &i. ^^.^^ Exchange), a small citv of the State of Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, ^ ^Xxmc\iQ^, 2 weeklv papers, and 2 banks. Although under different flags, ai ,^ .^p.^.-.^ted bv lines of customs-officers, St. Stephen and Calais form practic.^n^, ^^^ ^^; coramunitv, with identi- cal pursuits and interests. , Their citizt.^g j^^^.^ ^i,,,.,,.^ y^^.^^^ j^ ^^^.f^^^ fraternity, and formed and kept an agreen ^^^^^ ^^^ which^thev abstained from hostilities during the War of 1812. At' ^j^.^^ [-^^^^^ ^^^^ authorities also restrained the restless spirits from the back cOu.,^|.j.^. from acts of violence across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Ca iiado-American town with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divide, ^ j^y ^i^q river into Milltown-St. Stephen and ]Milltown-Calais. Travellers v,,{jq ^ross the river either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage loU i-^^j [j^^q \)y t^ie customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends ot'.fi^g brid^-es. The New Brunswick & Canada Railvray runs N. from St. Stephen to Ht mUon and Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Schoodic Lakes Us ~;iwiv afld with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs dailv to Bangor., q^ \f \y (fare, $ 7.50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. '30 ^ steam- boat le.aves Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi-weekly in "tsyi^ter for Eastport, where it connects with the International steamships for Por :-\^^^ and Boston (see also Route 3, and Osgood's Xeic England). Fares, Calais tc Portland $ 4.50 ; to Boston, by water, § 5.50 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, § '? ' The Schoodic Lakes. i A railway runs 21 il. N. W. from Calais to Lewey^s Isla7id (th) jnns) in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and pictPlji-esque Schoodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up tht^^ \fi^e to Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in A ^'\nerica. The trout in Lewey's Lake. have been neai'ly exterminated by the v<^ gracious pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contaif ^•^ perch pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and ffiie speckled-trour'M. ^he Grand Lake Stream is 3 - 4 M. long, and connects the Grand a^^^^d Bio- Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the farar K^^g gji. very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes *» Usually engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp \build- 36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. ing, and to guide their course from lake to lake . , of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Bi/:'? '' ""a ""^^ ^^ ^^^ portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and bea:f'V ^ ^wo hours' gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transpareu , *°'^';-'^^' ^^^^ the loon is often heard here, and a few bear and de'^^n't' J f ''^ f shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller ^""'^ ^^"""^ ^^^ lakes may be entered; and porkges conduct then TT"^ ''^?f tributaries of the Machias and Penobscot Eivers. ' navigable T ',' ^^^r^^. *^® ™°^* picturesque portions of the westPT-n «?n Lake This noble sheet of water is broken here and there bvi.""^^^ ^^^5^°° ^^ ^''^^^ even to the waters edge, with forests of pine and hard won^'^^''^"'! surrounded, covered with granitic bowlders, which, in ?ombSationwirhH-^^^ "^ ^o"o°» ^^ wide among the arboreal vegetation around." ^"^ %t, are spread lar and And the white trout are leapino- fo J^ake, It s exciting sport those beauties"- flies, Jogging the nerves and feastir'- take, ^g the eyes." Genio C. Scott. 6. St Andrews and St. Stephp-. -rrr ^ * i ^ xr i* T, ,^ ^, ^ ^"-i to Woodstock and Houlton. By the New Brunswick & Canar^ stock, $ 2.90. ^a Railway. Fare from St. Stephen to Wood- Distances. — St. Andrews t Koix Road, 15; Hewitt's, 19; F Chanacook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's. 11; Waweig, 13; 27 (St. Stephen to Watt Jur^ rolling Dafti, 20: Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, Junction, 43 ; Deer Lake..af ^tlon, 19) ; Lawrence, 29 ; Barber Dam. 34 ; McAdam Junction, 90 (Houlton/&9 ; Canterbury, 65 ; Eel River, 75 ; Wickham, 80 ; Debec rp, , 98) ; Hodgdon, 98 ; Woodstock, 101. The country tra' ^ ' & » ' elate reo-ions in '''^^^^^ ^J *^i^ ^^°® ^^ ^^^ ^f the most irredeemably des- sents a conth-""^'^ iS^orth America. The view from the car-windows pre- with stumr '^^^^ succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling The trac -t^^' ^"*^ funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks, gloomy 1;^^ °^ human habitation, which at wide interv'^als are seen In this occupant^^*^' ^^^ cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest rudely a^^ ' ^'^^ Nature has withheld the hills and lakes with Avhich she ume inV^^^^^ other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- in lanfiTt'^*'^"^ immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its domains in presei^S^ which reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism; but pen los^^*^^ ^^ t^^® lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his the stre ^*-^ hj'perbolical fervor. He says: " Excepting the intervales of general ^"^' '^^ ^^ necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the turage.i.,^^^^^*3^ of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but pas- soft- wo( ' ^^^^ district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of wood di'^ forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of the hard- Yqy iistricts. shores ^ short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near the the gra^^ Passamaquoddy Bay, affording pleasant views to the r. Then rounde- ^^ naass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and (see p ^ summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay ige 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash ST. JOHN TO BANGOR. Route?. 37 River, which it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passes on to McAdam Junction, where it intersects the European & Noi'th American Railway (page 38). There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will have time to dine while the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains from Bangor and from St. John. The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- bury (small inn), the centre of extensive operations in lumber. Running N. W. for 10 M., the Eel River is crossed near Rankin's Mills, and at Debec Junction the passenger changes for Woodstock. A train runs thence 8 M. N. W. to Houlton {Snell House, Buzzell House), the shire-town of Aroostook County, in the State of Maine (see Osgood's New England, Route 50) The other train runs N. E. down the valley of the South Brook, and in about 6 M. emerges on the highlands above tho valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful contrast to the dreary regiofi behind. The line soon reaches its terminus at the pretty village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 7. St. John to Bangor. By the St. John k Maine "Railwav in 10-12 hrs. Distances. — St. John; Carleton, J M. ; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand Bay, 12; "Westfield, 16; Nerepis,20; Welsford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaux, 33; Enniskillen, 33; Hoyt, 39; Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction, 85; St. Croix, 91; Vanceboro', 92; Jackson Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 1.50; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161; Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbush, 182; Costigan, 187', Milford, 192; Oldtown,193; Great Works, 194; Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin Mills, 198 ; Veazie, 201 ; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 233 ; Waterville, 260 ; Augusta, 281; Brunswick, 315; Portland, 343; Portsmouth, 395; Newburyport, 415; Bos- ton, 451.) The traveller crosses the Princess St. ferry from St. John to Carleton, and takes the train at the terminal station, near the landing. The line ascends through the disordered suburb of Carleton, giving from its higher grades broad and pleasing views over the citj", the harbor, and the Bay of Fundy. It soon reaches Fairville, a growing toAvn near the Provincial Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are fol- lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes, — Loch Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 38 Route?. CHIPUTNETICOOK LAKES. The line leaves the Long Reach, and turns to the N. W. up the valley < of the Nerepis River, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Welsford (small inn). The country now grows very tame and uninteresting, as the Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. from the Clarendon Set- tlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. From Gas- pereaux a wagon conve3^s passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10 - 12 M- S. W., among the highlands, a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Fredei^icton Junction a connection is made for Fredericton, about 20 M. N. Tracy's Mills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills on the Oromocto River, which traverses the village. On either side are wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and after ci'ossing the parish of New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- ment, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads S. 7-8 M. from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water nearly 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide, where many large trout are found. The neigliboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, "near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake (probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal measures, where they touch the slate." Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge ; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to the N. The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction (restaurant in the sta- tion), where it intersects the New Brunswick and Canada Railway (see Route 6). 6 M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at Vanceboro' ( Chiputneticooh House). This is the station whence the beau- tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. The Cliiputneti cook ILaltes are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, and are from y^ to 10 M. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of the multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which diversity of land and water affords beautiful combination? of scenery. The islands are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the bold highlands which shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Uni- versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- ness for 55 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the ilatta- ST. JOHN RIVER. Route 8. 39 ■wamkeag River. The station of Mattawamkeag is' at the confluence of the Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivers ; and the railway from thence follows the course of the latter stream, traversing a succession of thinly populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which is the largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine Indians, formerly the most powei-ful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at lirst well-dis- posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up arms in 1678, and inflicted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the State. The. declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- nue of $ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The island-village isj,vit.hout streets, and consists of many small houses built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom are half-breeds. Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of Bangor. For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- ton, see Osgood's New England. 8. St. Jolin to Fredericton. — The St. John River. The steamers David Weston and Star, of the Union Line, leave St. John (Indian- town) at 9 A. M. daily. See also Routes 9 and 10. These vessels are comfortably fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River. Dinner is served on board ; and fredericton is usually reached late in the afternoon. On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday there is a night-beat, leaving St. John at 5 P. M. ; and returning from Fredericton at 4 p. m., reaching St- John at 11 p. m. The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on a balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. John by bestowing upon it too extravagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and another prefers it to the Hud.^on. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farming coun- try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the stopping-places of the boats.) St. John ; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; Greenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 33; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. Fares. — St. John to Fredericton, $1. 40 Routes. KENNEBECASIS BAY. This river was called Looshtooh (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and ' Ouangoudie by the Micmacs. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, or other explorers at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the Lieut -General of Acadia it is called La Riviere de la Grandf Bale. But no exam- ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French fleet under De Monts and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good report of the chief river of Acadia. De Monts expected to find by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. " The extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 M. in length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 M., for light-draught steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the Penobscot and the Chaudiere ; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across the Mejarmette Portage and launch them in the Chaudiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and other large streams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearly to the Grand Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E-, and the sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traversed, with large tributaries coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters of the great basins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Belleisle and Kennebecasis Baj-s, which have a parallel direction to the N. E. , and afibrd good facilities for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connected with those of the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (which will be mentioned in connection with their points of departure). Immediately after leaving the dock at St. John a fine retrospect is given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful suspension-bridge. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large lumber-mills. On the r. is Boar''s Head, a picturesque rocky promon- tory, in whose sides are quarries of limestone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen open ing on the 1. rear. The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N. E. This noble sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and contains several islands, the chief of which, Long Island, is 5 M. long, and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Yalley, and through South Bay into Manawagonish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the present channel through the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quite recent in geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills ■was once unbroken and served to divert^he stream. LONG REACH.. Route 8. 41 On tiie banks of the placid Kennebecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the home of the Great Beaver, " feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally conquered and put to death. In this vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothers, Gloos- cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that his brother was vulnerable only by the touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl's feather would kill him. It came to pass that Malsunsis deternuned to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, the Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- bition) ; wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and reproached Malsun- sis, but afterwards told him ttiat a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap arose unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash,, the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus- quash say, " Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon-s wings ? " and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp of Glooscap, -to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, Glooscap arose and took a root pf fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him three brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and said: "Go your ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo ! their feet became rooted to the ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond the days of men, but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. is the large island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis Kiver. At this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle Bay. The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E., and enters the Long Eeach, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and. Greenwich Hill, on the 1, bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the DeviVs Bach, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nei-epis Valley. Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point (Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 42 Routed. BELLEISLE BAY. for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shor«.i The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which project towards each other from the opposite shores. Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuary is nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded promontory on the r., beyond which the bay extends to the N. E. for 12 - 14 M. , with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- gable for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills in the centre of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an almost uniform width of 5-6 M. for 30 M. , between the Kennebecasis Bay and river on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the N. W. The scenery, though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Pickivaakef-t , occu- pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of Kings County. The village is most easily reached "from Rothesay (see page 22). TennanVs Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay ; whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 4 M. beyond is Sjiringfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway (Route 16). At the head of the Long Eeach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding hamlet of Wichliam. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hamp- stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a large pond, and hiding the outlet of the WashademoaJc Lake (see Route 9). " This part of the Province, including the lands around the Grand Lake and along the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plentj^ near the Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." (McGregor's British America.) After passing the Upper Musquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at Gagetown (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- point for a broad tract of farming-country. After leaving this point, the steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg River. About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provide^ M AUGER VILLE. Route 8. 43 with a court of guard, stone barracks and magazines, a garden, and a chapel " 6 paces square, with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition sent out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the Seigneur de Soulanges et Marsou in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by " a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French Crown to the ancient Breton family of Damour des Chaffour. In 1686 it was occuiJed by the seignorial family, and in 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudx-euil, who liad 116 colonists in the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- ment to Fort Nashwaak (Fredericton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- peased and quieted by large presents. The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the seat of the Sheffield Academy. " The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugerville, Sheffield, and "Water- borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, including the three noble islands opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 M. long, and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable for 22 M. The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on the St. John River. ItVas established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and Connecticut, and had over lOO families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces were justified in re- sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and money should be raised for the American service : saying also, " we are Ready with our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutions were signed by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachm.ent of Mass. troops, ascended the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was joined by nearly 50 men. Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose grea.t cemeteries has recently been found here. When the hostile tribes concentrati-d on the Jemseg during the Revolutionary "War, and were preparing to devastate the river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near the mouth of the Oromocto, and took refuge there. They made such a bold front that the Indians retired and disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. " The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest trees, or sheltered by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from the constant change of posi- tion, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's eye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords an interesting 44 Routes. FREDERICTOIT. spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved downwards by the cur- rent. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a cow, and occasionally a haystack, all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished sur- ftice of the stream and send it rippling to the shore. In the midst of this landscape stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery." (Gesner.) Fredericton. Hotels. Barker House, Queen St. , $ 2 a day ; Queen's Hotel, Queen St., $ 2 a day. Stages leave tri- weekly for Woodstock (62 M. ; fare, $ 2.50) ; and tri- weekly for Boiestowa and the Miramichi (105 M. ; fare, $6). Kail ways. The European & North American (branch line) to St. John, in about 64 M. ; fare, S2. The New Brunswick Railway from Gibson (across the river) to Woodstock, Aroostook, and Edmundston, 176 M. Fare to Woodstock, $ 1.75 (page 50). Steamboats. Daily to St. John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare, % 1.50. In the summer there are occasional night-boats, leaving Fredericton at 4 p. M. When the river has enough water, steamboats sometimes run from Fredericton, 65 - 70 M. N. W. to Woodstock and Grand Falls. Ferry-steamers cross to St. Mary's at frequent intervals. Fredericton, the capital of the Province of New Brunsw^ick, is a small city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1882 it had 6,006 inhabitants, with five newspapers and a bank. It is prob- ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. The streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are lined with fine old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel with the river. At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunsvvick. Nearly in the middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the Military Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 1,000 men), which were formerly the headquarters of the British army in this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Building, a handsome modern freestone structure, from whose top a fine view is obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Lower House, Legislative Council, and Supreme Court (with its law library). The Legislative Library-, in a fire-proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, includ- ing Louis Philippe's copy of Audubon's '' Birds " (open during session, and on Wednesday afternoons). The chief wealth of Fredericton is em- ployed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, with an important British and West-Indian trade. * Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Parliament Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river (corner of Church and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled FREDERICTON. - Route 8. 45 after that of Christ Church Cathedral at Montreal. The beauty of the English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal Church in the United States, it represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each of which bears the inscription : " Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Regnaus in Sublime, Ave Spiritus Consolator, Ave Resonet sine line, Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Sancta Trinitas." St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen St. and the river are the substantial City Hall and Post-Ofiice, and the well-equipped Normal School, where the teachers of the Province are trained. The University of New Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 f£. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep around the city on the S. It was established by roj'al charter in 1828, while Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province; and was for many years a source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly endowed by the Province, and does an important work in carrying on the higher education of the country, despite the competition of denominational col- leges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston : " From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is to feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautiful river St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and re- flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its shores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- sories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." St. Mary''s and NashwaaJcsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of the St. John, and are reached bj^ a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great lumber-mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 46 Routes. FREDERICTON. In the year 1690 the French government sent out the Chevalier de Yillebon as Governor of Acadia. When he arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, he found that Sir WilUam Phipps's New-England fleet had recently captured and de- stroyed its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- tal at Nashwaak, where he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on tte settlements of Maine. In October, 1696, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships Arundel, Province, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de Viilebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- tachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three days a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire from La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated down the river. The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1604, during his exploration of the river. In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Royal districts. In 1784 came the exiled Am.erican Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the ■wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, Fredericton has become dormant. 7 M. above Fredericton is Auhpaqiie, the favorite home-district of the ancient Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- brose St. Aubin, their " august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from below, and Col. Allan led away about 500 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their boats, families, and household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the rapid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand Lake, and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into tlie Lower Schoodic Lake, and thence carried their families and goods to the head-waters of the Machias River. Floating down that stream, they reached Machias i in time to aid in beating off the British squadron from that town. From Fredericton to the Miramichi. Through the Forest. The Royal Mail-stage leaves on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at a very early hour, and the passenger gets breakfast at Eastman's, and sleeps at Frazer's. The trip requires 2 days, and costs $6 (exclusive of hotels), and the distance from Fredericton to Newcastle is 105 M. By far the greater part of the route leads through an unbroken forest, and the road leaves much to be desired. After crossing the ferry at Fredericton 1 Machias is said to be derived from the French word Mages (meaning the Magi), and it is held that it was discovered by the ancient^French explorers on the Festival of the Magi. WASHADEMOAK LAKE. Routed. 47 the route lies due N. and is as straight as an arrow for 9 M., when it reaches Nashwaak Village (small inn); thence it follows the Nashwaak River for 5 M., to thd' hamlet of Nashwaak^ above which it enters a wild country about the head-waters of the river. To the W. are the immense domains of the New Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling settle- ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route between the St. John valley' and the Miramichi waters, by way of the Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see " Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, pp. 464-474). At about 40 M. from Fredericton the stage reaches Boies- toivn (small inn), a lumbei'ing-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 120 Americans, but has become decadent since the partial exhaustion of the forests. The road now follows the course of the S. W. Miramichi, passing the hamlets of Ludlow, 52 M. from Fredericton ; Doaktown, 55 M.; Blissfield, 62; Dunpliy, 73; Blackville, 79; Indiantown (Renous River), 87;Dei-by, 96; and Newcastle, 105 (see Route 15). 9. Washademoak Lake. Steam Tioats occasionally run from St. John to this point, a distance of 60 M. A regular line formerly plied on this route, but it was given up, some years since. The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 89) to the upper end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E, in a narrow passage be- tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either side are wide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened by clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for 1^ M., the steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the broadening of the river of the same name, which maintains a width of from ^ M. to 2 M. from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25 - 30 M. It is deep and still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- scend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the Cocagne, and pass down to St. John, The scenery is rather tame, being that of alluvia] lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are- 10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above McDonald's Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 M. into the parish of Wickham ; and 4-5 M. farther on are the Narrows, where the Jake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluff projecting from the E. shore. CoWs Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. 48 RmdelO. GKAND LAKE. from Apohaqui, on the Intercolonial Eailway. Roads run across the p^ ninsula on the N. W. to Grand Lake in 5 -7 M. It is 38 M, from Cole's Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Eailway, by way of Brookvale, The Forks, and New Canaan. The Washademoak region has no attrac- tions for the summer tourist. 10. Grand Lake. The river-steamer Fawn leaves St. John (Indian town) on Wednesday and Satur- day at 8 A.M., for Grand Lake and the Salmon River. The distance is 85 M. ; the fare is $ 1.50. She leaves Salmon River on Monday and Thursday mornings ; and touches at Gagetown in ascending and descending. Grand Lake is 30 M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John River, thrown up by the high tides of the Bay of Fundy. The shores are low and uninteresting, and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous hamlets on each side, but they are all small and have an air of poverty. It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- come, in a few decades, the home of a large and prosperous population. The lands in this vicinity were granted at an early date to the Sieur de Freneuse, a young Parisian, the son of that Sieur de Clignancourt who was so active in settling the St. John valley and in defending it against the New-Englanders. On Charle- voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse, and a village of the same name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores were a favorite camp- ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the agricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustion of the forests on the Salmnn River ; and it is now thought that a farming population will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. The steamer ascends the St. John River (see page 39) as far as Gage- town, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are sometimes visited). She then crosses to the mouth of the Jemseg (see page 43), where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its narrow, tortuous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- esting part of the journey. When nearly through the passage the boat stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupying the slope of a hill on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- town (150 inhabitants), near which is a channel cut through the alluvium, leading (in 2 M.) to Maquapit Lake, which is 5 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. This channel is called the Thoroughfare ; is passable by large boats; and leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 M. from the W. end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This lake is 5 - 6 M. from Sheffield, on the St. John River, The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. (The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as followed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white GEAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 lighthouse rising from the E. shore ; and the steamer passes around into White's Cove, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the lake are entered. At Neiccastle and other points in this vicinitj'-, attempts have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an adjacent cottage. Brigg''s Corner is at the head of naTigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50-60 M. It is stated by good authority that the fishing in the Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very good sport may be found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner. Visitors to this district must be provided with full camp-equipage. A road also leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) to Blissville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. 11. Fredericton to Woodstock. By the New Brunswick Bailway, which is now completed to Edmundston. The company hopes that the line will be carried through to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. Stations. — Gibson ; St Mary's, 1 M.; Douglas, 3; Springhill, 5|; Rockland, 10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16^; Lawrence, I7i ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22i ; Burnside, 25 ; Upper Keswick, 28i ; Burt Lake, 32 ; Haynesville, 36 J ; Millville, 38i ; Nackawic,43; Falls Brook, 48; Woodstock Junction, 52; Newburgh, 57; River- side, 60 ; Northampton, 61i. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, $ 1.75. Beyond Woodstock Junction the New Brunswick Railway runs N. to Hartland (61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and the upper St. John valley. The traveller crosses the St. John River by the steam ferry-boat (5 c.), from Fredericton to Gibson ; and the terminal station of the railway is near the ferry-landing. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 3 D 50 Route 11. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. of the prosperous and happy settlements which have been founded here, by- Mr. Gibson, the lumber-merchant. Glimpses of Fredericton are obtained on the 1., and beyond St. Mary's the Nashwaaksis River is crossed. Then follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon Avhich are clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of Springliill (see page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the line changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to show the rewards of the arduous labors of its .early pioneers. The Keswick Valley was settled in 1783, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 M. from its mouth. From Cardigan station a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. The line next passes several stations on the ol8 domain of the New Brunswick Land Company, an association -which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, and purchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. They established their carital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through the forest, settled a large com} any of peo];le from the Isle of Skyeupon their lands, and expended ^500,000 in vain attempts to colonize this district. The country now traversed by tlie line seems desolate and unpromising, and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond New~ burgJi. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- way bridge. Woodstock {American ffouse, comfortable), the capital of Carleton County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff over the St. John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church of St. Gertrude are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other part of New Brunswick. The bold bluff's over the St. John are generally well- wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- mills at the mouth of the Meduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock WOODSTOCK. Route 12. 51 is the American village of HouUon, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- tecture and its society. " Of the quality of the Woodstock iron it is impossible to speak too highly, espe- cially for making steel, and it is eagerly sought by the armor-plate manufacturers in England. On six different, trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only slightly in- dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a fine silver-gray color, is singu- larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Russian, or East Indian iron." (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from the village, and are being worked efficiently, their products being much used for the British iron-clad frigates. The N. B. & C. Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews (see page 3S) ; fare, $ 2.90. The N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, $ 1.75. Steamers run to Fredericton and to Grand Falls, when the river is high enough. Trains run N. to Grand Falls, and W. to Houlton. 12. Fredericton to Wcodstsck, by the St. John River. During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by the mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is $2.50. The stage is uncovered, and hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and Woodstock by the new rail- way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without refer- ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. Distances. — Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M. ; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- tol (Kingsclear), 16 ; Lower Prince William, 21 ; Prince William, 25 ; Dumfries, 32 ; Pokiok Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury, 44 ; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- stock, 52. On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming population descen5ed from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river now run to the S. W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon reach the village of Lower Prince William ( Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake George, where an antimony-mine is being Avorked; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy (small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 52 Route 12. FOKT MEDUCTIC. The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was originally settled by the King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's Kangers, after the Revolutionaiy War. Eich intervale islands are seen in the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps around a broad bend at whose head is Pokioh, with large lumber-mills, 3 M. from Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the Eiver Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the St. John, and aflbi'ds a beautiful sight in time of liigh water, although its current is often encumbered with masses of riflf-raflf and rubbish from the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is the. pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. in diameter. Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the mouth of the Sheogomoc Eiver, flowing out from a lake of the same name. At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel Eiver is crossed; and about 5 M. be- yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Fort Meductic. This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper Eel River and the Eel and Korth Lakes to the Chiputneticook Lakes and Pa^sama- quoddy Bay. Portions of these portiiges are marked by deep pathways worn in the rocks iby the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and warriors. By this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Tillebon to manv a merciless foray on the i^ew England borders. The land in this vicinity, and the lordship of the Milicete town at Meductic, were granted in 1684 to the Sieur Chgnancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts from the fort on the Jem seg. Here, also, during high water, the Indians were obliged to make a portage around the Meductic Eapids, and the command of this point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also th& account of Allan's retreat, on page 46.) Off this point are the Meductic Rapids, where the stetoiboats sometimes find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon approaches the N. B. Eailway (see page 37), and runs between that line and the river. " The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the pleas- antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, and the comfortable farm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the FLORENCEVILLE. Route 13- 53 windings of the great river, the picturesque knolls, and the gay appearance of the pretty straggling little town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, English- looking country." (Gordon.) 13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Eiviere du Loup. The New-Brunswick Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to Edmundston, tlirough a rather picturesque and diversified country, with charming river-views, and furnishing access to very good fishing-grounds. Along the 16 M., where the St. John forms the international boundary, extending from 2,^ M. above Grand Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold hiUs enclosing lake-like reaches of river, graceful islands, and fair meadows. Stations. — Woodstock to Upper Woodstock, 2 M. ; Newburgh Junction, 6 ; Hartland, 13; Peel, 17; Florenceville, 23 ; Kent, 26; Bath, 29; Muniac,41; Perth, 49; Andover (Tobique), 51; Aroostook, 55 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M. ; E.Lyndon, 14; Caribou, 19; Presque Isle, 34); Grand Falls, 73; St. Leonard's, 87 ; Green River, 104 ; St. Basil, 107 ; Edmundston, 113. It is 80 M. by stage from Edmundston to lUviere du Loup, on the St. Law- rence (Sp). The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an attrac- tive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, I ought, perhaps, rather £o say Scotch, for the general features are those of the lowland parts of -Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — tall croi^s of maize, ripening fields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hon. Arthur Gordo jST.) The train runs out E. from Woodstock across the St. John valley to Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns N". on the main line, and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. John, which are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and Middle Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- tural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (large hotel) is a pretty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of -a high bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the West India Rangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. " Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river. 5 M. S. W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. high, which overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared by the Commissioners of 1794. 54 Route 13. TOBIQUE. From Florfenceville the train runs E". 3 M. to Kent, where a road leads across in 15 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fisher- men descend the great river, 60 M., to Boiestown (see page 47), through rich hill and forest scenery, and with the best of salmon and trout fish- ing. (For guides, etc., write to Eichards & Son, Fredericton, N". B.). Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant (but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition; and reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the landscape. ToMf[ue (/. A. Perley^s inn), otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly situated on the W. bank of the St. John, neai-ly opposite the mouth of the Tobique River. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 churches, and is the chief depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique Eiver. Nearly opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the tribe engage in lumbering and boating. Fort Fairfield (Fort Fairfield House) is 7 M. N. W. of Tobique, and is an American border-town, with 900 inhabitants, 5 churches, and several small fac- tories. This town was settled by men of New Brunswick in 1816, at which time it was supposed to be inside the Pi-ovincial line. A road runs from Fort Fairfield S. W. to Presqiie Isle ( Presqve Isle Hotel), a village of about 1 000 inhabitants, with 4 churches, an academy, several factories, and a newspaper (the " Presque Isle Sun- rise "). This town is 42 M. N. of Houlton, on the U. S. military road which runs to the Madawaska district, and is one of the centres of the rich farming lands of the Aroostook Valley, parts of which are now occupied by Swedish colonists. From Tobique to Bathurst. Through the Wilderness. Guides and canoes can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. Aboofc 1 M. above Tobique the voyagers ascend through the Narroios, where the rapid cur- rent of the Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, and 50-100 ft. deep) between high limestone cliffs Then the river broadens out jnto a pretty lake-Hke reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either side. The first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. Near the foot of the reach is the settlement of Artliurette, with about 400 inhabitants. The Red Rapids are 11 M from the mouth of the river, and descend between high shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream ; and by the evening of the second day the voyagers should reach the high red cliffs at the mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian nam.e signifies " a river with a wall at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M., through a region of limestone hills and alluvial intervales. The Wapskehegan is 81 M. above the mouth of the Tobique. Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the shore, and blue hills more remote, en- gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster^s Cove on the N. bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Long Island, 44 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in from the E., and navigable by canoes for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this confluence are passed, occasional glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridges. At 80 M. from the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-5 days from Tobique). NICTOR LAKE. Route 13. 55 The Campbell River here comes in from the E. and S. E., from the great Tobique Lake and other remote wilderness- waters ; the Momozeket descends from the N., and from the N. W. comes the Nietor, or Little Tobique River. It is a good day's journey from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nietor; and another day conducts to the * Nietor Lake, " possessing more beauty of scenery than any other locality I have seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Chaleur. Close to its southern edge a granite mountain rises to a height of nearly 3,000 ft., clothed with wood to its summit, except where it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray shinglv slopes. Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- esque forms, are on other sides ; and in the lake itself, in the shadow of the moun- tain, is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance." It takes 2-3 hours to ascend the mountam (Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is very fine. The lake lies right at our feet, — millions of acres of forest are spread out before us like a map, sinking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst Katah- din and Mars Hill in Maine, Tracadiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the Restigouche. and Green Mountain in Victoria, are all distinctly visible. " (Gordon. ) From the head of Nietor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the Nepisigiiit Lake, on whose E. shore is the remarkable peak called Mount Teneriffe. Near the outlet is a famous camping-ground, where the fishing is good and in whose vicinity deer and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Neplslguit River to the Great Falls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between distant ranges of bare granite hills. The Tobique affords the very best of salmon-fishing, with many trout also. The scenery is very interesting, with noble red cliffs, and canons, seething rapids, hill- girt lakes, and true forest wildness. The Tobique is the most picturesque stream in New Brunswick. Grand Falls {Grand-Falls Hotel^ a new summer-resort; American', Glasier's), the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British garrison, and now capital of Victoria Count}', has latterly become famous as a watering-place, the attractions being the noble river and goi'ge and hill scenery adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing- grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands ou a square peninsular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the railway to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French hahitans and Danish immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound here, in the fall, and furnish good sport ; and the strawberries of July are delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convul- sions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs come down. Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen from the old mill above, from the Wells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with grand prospect of the caiion aitd rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over the profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-inspiring. There are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 ft. nbove), the village, including Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Sal- mon-River and Blue Mts. The ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes ; then hurries its massive current into a narrow rock-bound goi'ge, in which it slants down an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 56 Route 13. GRAND FALLS. 68 ft. high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps' from the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for | M. through a rugged gorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dark rock are from 100 to 240 ft. high. " It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and. whirlpools always in motion ; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- nal features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- ged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when a raft is about passing over. 3-4 M. below the Falls is the dangerous Rapide de Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, 65 M. distant. It is a tradition of the Micmacs that in a remote age two families of their tribe were on the upper St. John hunting, and were surprised by a war-party of the strange and dreaded Northern Indians. The latter were descending the river to at- tack the lower Micmac villages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. A few miles above the falls thej' asked their unwillicg guides if the stream was all smooth below, and on receiving an affirmative answer, lashed the canoes together into a raft, and went to sleep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand Falls the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while the hostile war- riors, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, only to awaken when escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmacs on the river be- low, and the brave women were ever afterward Jaeld in high honor by the tribe. Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E. bank of the sti-eam, and soon enters the Acadian-French settlements and farming- districts. 8-10 M. up the road is the village of St. Leonard, nearly all of whose people are French; and on the American shore (for the St. John River is for man}* leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- larly constituted village of Van Buren (two inns). This district is largely peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. The Hon. Arthur Gordon thus describes one of these Acadian homes near Grand River (in 1863): " The whole aspect of the farm was that of a nietairit in Nor- mandy ; the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a different color from the frame, — the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare shining floor, — the lasses at the spinning-wheel, — the French costume and appearance of Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, — all carried me back to the other side of the Atlantic." Grand River (TardifF's inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. beyond St. Leonard, at the mouth of the river of the same name. The St. John River to the Restigouche. A rugged wilderness-journey may be made on this line, by engaging Acadian guides and canoes at the Madawaska settlements. 3-4 weeks will be sufficient time to reach the Bay of Chaleur, with plenty of fishing on the way. On leaving the St. John the vojagers ascend the Grand River to its tributary, the Waagansis. A port- age of 5-6 M. from this stream leads to the Waagan, down whose narrow current the canoes float through the forest until the broad Restigouche is entered (see Route 16 ; see also Hon. Arthur Gordon in " Vacation Tourists " for 1862 - 63, p. 477). MAD AW ASK A. Route 13. 57 6 M. above Grand River is St. Basil (two inns), which, with its back settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond are some islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of TOO inhabitants, all of whom are Acadians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- route from Van Buren to Fort Kent. Beyond the populous village of Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to the Acadian settlement of Edmundston ( Whitneifs Hotel), at the con- fluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers. This is the centre of the Acadian-French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls. This district is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of intervale along the rivers, and the people are generallj^ in a prosperous and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily- situated bid block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the wide prospect over the district. The village is rather crude, but the scenery about it, including the great river, the rich meadows, the far- away Mt. Carmel, is very charming. The best of fishing (trout and whitefish, tuladi and toque, — these latter weighing from 15 to 35 pounds each) is to be enjoyed in this vicinit}-, particular!}^ in Fish River and the Eagle Lakes, Green River, and the Temiscouata region. This people is descended from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the Bay of Fundy and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- tion of them ascended the St. John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless forest, and settled in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found themselves divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 8,000 persons in these settlements. " It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes; the large, often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) The American village of Madawaska (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U. S. mail-stages run from this point up the val- ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in 1869 was incorporated as Dickey ville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 received the name of Frenchville, " as describing the nationality of its settlers." From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Cleveland, a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with Lake Sedgwick, which is nearly 10 M. long. 3* 58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort Kent, an old border-post of theU. S. Army. :^t has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the adjacent farming settle- ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from Van Buren. From this point stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian Tillage of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. Francis River. The latter stream, flo-ning from the N. W., is the boundary of the United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called A'i'ela- stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of the St. Francis, the St. John River is included in the State of Maine, and flows through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." Its chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and the head-waters of the Penobscot. The Eagle L.akes, in Maine, are visited hence (guides obtained at Whitney's) by a portage of Sg- M. from Frenchville, 5 M. above Edmundston, to Long Lake, whence, by Mud, Cross, Square, and Eagle Lakes, and Fish River, the canoes de- scend through beautiful scenery to Fort Kent, 20 M. above Edmundston. There are famous burbot and whitefish in these lakes. At Edmundston the Royal mail-route leaves the St. John River, and ascends the W. shore of the Madawaska. Bat few settlements are passed, and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. About 25 M. from Edmundston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque Temiseouata Lake, where there is a small village. The road is parallel with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the upper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it overlooks the lake. Temiscounta is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake is 80 M. long by 2 - 3 M. wide. The scenery is very pretty, and the clear deep waters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great gray trout, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at the Lake-Side House, where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temiscouata receives the Cabineau River, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.) ; and on the E. is the Tuladi River which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and flows down through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief settlement on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. Fort Ingalls commanded the lake, and had a garrison of 200 men as late as 1850. At the mouth of the Tuladi, 285 barrels of whitefish were taken in the fall run of 1378. 1 M. up are falls, from which the still Tuladi may be ascended for 16 M., to the Forks, where the fishing is very good. Deer, bears, caribou, and other game abound in these vast untrodden forests. A favorite trip for sportsmen leads from Edmundston (by carriage) up the Madawaska to Griffin's, 16 M, , then a portage of 21- M. to Mud Lake ; then a long and delightful canoe-descent to Fourth Squa-took Lake ; then down into Third Squa-took, from whose shore rises the noble-viewing Squa-took Peak ; and then down to the Forks, and along the Tuladi River to Temis- couata Lake. The road from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Loup is 40- 50 M, lon^ and descends through a wild regioi? into which few settlers have advanced. SHEDIAC. Route I4. 59 14. St. John to Shediac. Distances. — St. John to Moncton, 89 M. ; Painsec Junction, 97 ; Dorchester Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Cheue, 108. St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16. Passengers for Shediac and Point du Chene change cars at Painsec Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a level and unproductive country. Shediac ( Weldori's ; Waverley ) is a village of 500 inhabitants, with 3 churches, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrew's, the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, and its interests are represented by a weekly paper called "Xe Moniteur Acadien.'" Point du Chene (Schurman's Point du Chene House) is 2 M. N. E. of Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers run from Point da Chene to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make con- nections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43) for Char- lottetoAvn and all parts of the island. Passengers leave St. John at 8 a. m., and reach Charlottetown at 8 p. m. The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediac by Point du Chene to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedish, 17; Great Shemogue (Avard's Hotel), 22; and Little Shemogue, 24. These settlements contain about 1,500 inhabitants, most of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogue. 10-12 M. N . of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,500 inhabitants, seven eighths of whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tilling the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the villages. 21 M. from Shediac is Buctouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 400 inhab- itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. 60 Route 15. RTCHIBUCTO. 15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New Brunswick. Since the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the routes of Pro- vincial travel have undergone many important chauf^cs, particularly around the N. shore of New Brunswick, where the trains on this groat route have supplanted the services of the steamships. Tlie regular steam- ship lines between Quebec and Prince Edward Island, which used to serve these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. The following account is preserved for the use of travellers by sea, although the descri|)tions of the towns were revised in 3883. The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Ba}' of Chaleur, but the account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. A steamboat of the St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Co. leaves Campbell- ton every Wednesday and Saturdav, at 5 A. m., and runs out to Carleton, New Richmond, New Carlisle, Paspebiac, Port Daniel, Newport, Grand River, Percc^ and Gaspc'^ Basin. It leaves Gaspd on the return voj'age at 2 A.M., Thursdaj's and Moiida3'3. The steamship leaves tlio long railway wharf at Point du Chene, and passes tlic low shores of Shediac Ishind on the 1. Tlio course is laid well out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Cape Egmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strait is nearly 20 M. wide. On the 1. the harl)<)rs of Cocagne and Buctoutdie (see page 50) are soon passed. 14^ M. N. of Buctoucho are the low clifls and liglithouse of Jiichibucto Ileail, beyond which (if the weather ])ermits) the steamer takes a more westerly course, and enters the great liichibucto River, which empties its stream through a. broad lagoon enclosed by sand-l)ars. Rich.ibuoto {Kent JJutvl) is tlie capital of Kent County, and occupic^ a favorable position for commerce and shipbuilding, near the mouth of tlio RIchibucto River. It has about 800 inhabitants and 3 churches, and i.s engaged in the exportation offish and lumber. The river is navigable fur 20 M., and lias been a great highway for lumber-vessels, although now the supply of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. Tlie rubbish of the sav,-- mills has destroyed the once valuable fisheries in this river. In the region about Richibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Aldouin River, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. Daily stages run from Richibucto to Shediac and to Chatham (see page Gl). A road leads S. W. through the wilderness to the Grand Lake district (lioute 10). Tho name Richibucto pigniflos " the River of Fire," and the shores of the river and l)ii.y w(m-c lonncrly iiiliiihitcd by a ferocious and bloodthirsty triljc of Tndiiin;!. So late lis 1 j'sy, when the American Loyalist Powell t^ottlcd hcrc^, Micre were but four Cliristiun familicM (and they were Acadians) in all this rej;ion (the present county of Kent). The power of tho llichibuctos was brolceu in 1724, when all their warriors, CHATHAM. Route 15. 61 undpr commnnd of Arp;iniooali (" tlio Orojvt Wiznrd "), nttackod C;inso and captured 17 Massacliusotta vessels. Two well-in;mne(l vessels of IJosLoii and (lape Ami were sent after them, and overtook tlie Indiiiii IliH'ton t\u\ c^oast. A despera.te naval lia.ttlo ensued betwet^n the Massachnsi>tts sloops and the Imlian i)ri/,e-sliips. 'rh(> Itichi- bnetos lonsxht witli grea.t valor, Imt were finally diseoneerh^l by showers of hand- grenades from the Americans, anel nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. After cmoroino- from Kii'liihiu-to Inirbor, tlio stciimer runs N. ncross tho opening of the sliallow KoueliihouguMC Ray, Avlioso sliorcs arc low sfiiid- biirs and beaclies wliicli enclose shoal lagoons. 5 IM. above Point Sapin is E$cuminac Point, on which is a powcrfnl Avhite light, visible for 25 I\l. The course is now laid more to tho W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on tlie 1. are seen the pilots' village and tho lighthouses on Preston's Beach. 'Hie entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and I'ortage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is !;> M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on tho S. is seen Vin Island, back of whit'li is tho B(ty du i-7/i. Two centuries ago all this shoro was occupied by l<'rencli settlements, whone only remnant now is tho hamlet of Portago i.'oad, in a remote corner of the bay. Wiien about 9 M. from the. entrance, the steamer passes between Point Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 3^ M. apart. 3-4 ]\I. farther on, the course is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses (on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of tho Napan River, on tho S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., and otr Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying across the mouth of the river. Tiie vessel now enters tho Miramichi Rivor, and on the r. is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is hero a noble stream, fully 1 M. wide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. Chatham ( Canada Hotel; Bowser's Hotel) is the chief town on the North Shore, and has a population of nearly 8,000, with 5 churches, a weekly newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built along the S. shore of the river for a distance of li M. On the summit of the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and hospital of the Hotel Dieu do Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, and the river here usually contains several largo ships, which can anchor off tho wharves in 6-8 fathoms. About 22 M. beyond Chatham arc tho hoad-watcrs of the Tabusiiitac Rivor, " the spDrtsman'd paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abuudauce of trout is found. Tri-weekly sta;j,cs run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church, 20; Neguac, 25; Tabusintae, 37; Tnicadie, 52; I'oekmouche, (54; Shipi)igan, 70; aud Caraquette (Lower), 73. Tho first 30 M. of tills road arc along (or near) tho N. shore of the Miramichi Uiver aud the luuor liay, by the hamlets of Oak Poiut and Burnt Church. 62 Route 15. THE MIRAMICHI. Burnt CliTircli is still the capital of the Micmac Indians of the Prorince, and here they gather in great numbers on St. Anne's Day and engage in religious rite^ and athletic sports and dances. Hon. Arthur Gordon says: "I was surprised by the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry. Even the costumes were in some degree similar, and I noticed more than one short colored-silk jacket and handkerchief-bound head that carried me back to Ithaca and Paxo." (Vacation Tourists, 1863 ) Tabusintac (small inn) is near the mouth of the Tabusintac River, and is a Presbyterian village of about 400 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries. Many large sea-trout are caught near the mouth of the river, and in October immense numbers of wild geese and ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. Traf-adie is a settlement which contains 1,2C0 French Acadians, and is situated near a broad lagoon which lies inside a line of sand-bars. Salmon, cod, and herring are found in the adjacent v.aters, and most of the people are engaged in thefish- eries. The Tracadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons afflicted with the leprosy, which prevails to some extent in this district, but has diminished since the government secluded the lepers in this remote hospital There is an old tradi- tion that the leprosy was introduced into this region during the last century, when a French vessel was wrecked on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Mar- seilles and had contracted the true elephantiasis grceconnn (Eastern leprosy) in the Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary transmission is attributed to the closeness of the relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians (sometimes by dispensations from the Church) Pockmouche is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here the mail-route forks, — one road running 6 M. N. E. to Shippigan (see page 64), the other run- ning 9 M. N. to Lower Caraquette (see page 66j. River-steamers run up the N. W. and S. \V. branches, and occasionally to Burnt Church and Bay du Yin. Another river-steamer runs up the river four times daily to Newcastle (6 M.), touching at Dougiastown, a dingy village on the N. bank, where much lumber is loaded ou the ships which take it hence to Europe. This village contains about 400 inhabitants, and has a marine hospital, built of stone. Newcastle ( Waverley Hotel) is the capital of ISTorthumberland County, and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Miramichi River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here, and a branch line has been built to Chatham. 150,000,000 ft. of lumber are ex- ported hence annually. There are 5 churches here. A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- son, is the confluence of the great rivers known as the N. W. Miramichi and the S. W. ]\Iiramiohi. These streams are crossed by the largest and most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Railway. The name Miramichi signifies "Happy Retreat," and signifies the love that the In- dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages with the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique, and the Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and Burnt Hill Brooks. A tri-weekly stage runs from Newcastle to Boies- town and Fredericton (see page 46), traversing 105 M. of a rude and sparsely settled country. >» SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. 63 Beaubair^s Island is off upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous French town, but few relics of which are now to be seen. It was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1759. A colony was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a IG gun baf'ery. In 1642-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaques Enaud, a Basque gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the walrus fisheries. But a contention soon arose between Enaud's men and the In- dians, by reason of which the Basque establishments were destroyed, and their peo- ple were forced to flee to Nepisiguit. In 1672, after the Treaty of Breda, several families from St. Malo lauded on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried on between the Miramichi country and France, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops fiiled in 1757, and tlie relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 1758 the transport i>'//it?/CT)ne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- heartened colonists, famished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by death. Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on Beaubair's Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first boat's-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. Then sailing to the N. E., the commander lauded a force at Neguac, and burnt the Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this day only by the name of Burnt Ohui'ch. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of New Brunswick was deserted and relapsed into a wilderness state. In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading-post on the S. W. Miramichi, where 1,500-1,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given out that her crew were Bostonians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. In 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. \Y. Miramichi, and several families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Vast numbers of masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. In October, 1825, this district was desolated by the great Miramichi Fire, wliich swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed $ 1,000,000 worth of property and 160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead ; and here, nearly covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, and the domestic beasts of the farm. On leaving the Miramichi Eiver and Bay the vessel steams out into the Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the lov;^ shores of Tabusintac and Tracadie, in- dented by wide and shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 35 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This island is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Sliij^pigan. There are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerefoff" these shores, and the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Cana- dian fleets. Noble wild-duck shooting here in spring and fall. 64 Route 15. BAY OF CHALEUR. Sliippigan Harbor, though still surrounded by forests, has occupied a prom- inent place in the calculations of commerce and travel. It has been proposed that the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship line, thus withdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. The distance from Shippigan to Livei-pool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less than the distance from Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal than is Halifax. Tlie Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- erfully supported, and is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express steamers on the Ocean and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follows : London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Valentia to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 100 hours ; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway), 250 M., 8|- hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (across the Gulf), 250 M., 15^ hours; Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hours ; London to New York, 171 hours, or 1^ days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race and New York ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf; would diversify the monotonj'- of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps and details in Sandford Fleming's " Intercolonial Railway Survey "). The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscoa Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, wliich is much used as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. Settlements -were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was followed into the Arctic Zone. AVithin five years a few walruses have been seen in the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen tlie ruins of the post of the Royal Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. Tlae steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the fixed red light on Bii-ch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green knoll. Between Point ]\Iiscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- trance to the Bay of Chaleur. The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Echetuam Nemaache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is still api^licable, since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively tranquil, and the air is clear and bracing and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year b}^ great American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouces- ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- chusetts ports. BATHURST. Rmite 15. 65 This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, froni the fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Baie des Chaleurs (the Bay of Heats). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des Espagnols, indicating that it was frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the purposes of fishing. In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, relative to Skipper Ireson's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has been commemorated in the poetry of \Yhittier : — * Small pity for him I — He sailed away From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay, — Sailed away from a sinking wreck, "With his own town's-people on her deck ' ' Lay by '. lay by ! ' they called to him ; Back lie answered, ' Sink or swim ! Brag of your catch of fish again ! ' And off he sailed through the fog and rain. Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead. " Fathoms deep in dark Chaleur That wreck shall lie forevermore. ISIother and sister, wife and maid. Looked from the rocks of Marbleliead Over the moaning and rainy sea, — Looked for the coming that might not be ! What did the winds and the sea-birds say Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart By the women of Marblehead." When well within the bay the steamer assumes a course nearly S. W., leaving ]\Iiscou and Shippigan Islands astern. The broad Caraquetfe Bay is on the S., and the New-Bandon shores (see page 66) are followed into Nepisiguit Bay. The harbor of Bathurst is entered by a strait two cables wide, between Alston Point and Carron Point, on the latter of which there are red and white beacon-lights. Bathurst {Wilbur Rouse), the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,000 inhabitants, and stands on a peninsula 2J M. from the bay. Large quan- tities of fish are sent hence to the American cities; and the exportation of frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Rail- way has a station near Bathurst. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst re- ceives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes amid lovely scenery abound hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer-resort air. It is 3 M. to the fine beach of Alston Point, near which there are farm boarding-houses. The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians WinkapiguwicJc, or Nepisiguit, signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St. Pierre. Enaud mar- ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and established an extensive fur-trade, erect- ing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit. But some family troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, after which the French settlements were plundered by the Indians, and such of the inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- pied by an industrious farming population. In 1692 the Micmacs confederated against them, and, under the command of the sagamore Halion, completely devas- tated the whole district and compelled the settlers to fly ta Canada. Thenceforward for 74 years this country waS unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Scotch trading- post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N. shore of Bathurst harbor, and thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- teers, which also devastated the other shores of Chaleur. The present town was founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in honor of the Earl of Bathurst. The Nepisiguit Kiver empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for its fine fishing. The riparian owners have sold their fishing rights to Bos- 66 Route 15. CARAQUETTE. ton people, and to the Nepisiguit Angling Club of St. John, N. B., iroxp. whom a fishhig permit may be bought. A road ascends for 35 M., passing the Rough Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineau Falls (9 M. up), the dark pools of the Betaboc reach, the Chain of Rocks, and the Narrows. The * Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit are 20 M. above Bathurst, and consist of 4 distinct and step-like cliffs, with a total height of 140 ft. They are at the head of the Narrows, where the river flows for 3-4 M. through a cafion between high cliffs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing roar is deafening, while the base of the cliff is shrouded in white spray. From the profound depths at the foot the river whirls away in a black and foam-flecked course for 2 M. " Good by, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisherman's elysium; farewell to thy merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Long may thy music lull the innocent angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan home." (Roosevelt.) The * Grand Fulls of the Tete-?i-gouche River are about 8 M. W. of Bathurst, and may be visited by carriage. The river here falls about 30 ft., amid a wild confusion of rocks and cliffs. Tri- weekly stages run E. from Bathurst to Salmon Beach, 8 M. ; Jaraes- ville, 12: Clifton, 15; New Bandon, 20; Pockshaw, 28; Grand Anse, 28; Upper Caraquette, 36; Lower Caraquette, 43; Shippigan, 60. Fare to Caraquette, $ 3.50. This road follows the shores of the Nepisiguit Bay and the Bay of Clialeur for nearly 30 M. The hamlets of Clifton (small inn) and Neio Bandon were settled by Irish immigrants, and are now engaged in making grindstones. Pockshaw has an inn and about 600 inhabitants. Grand Anse is an Acadian settlement, and has 700 inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Thence the road runs 8 M. S. E. to Upper Caraquette, where there are about 600 Acadians. Loioer Caraquette (two inns) is a French village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is famous for its strong, swift boats and skilful mariners. Caraquette was founded in 1768 by a colony of Bretons, and owed a part of its early growth to intermarriages with the Micmacs. It is a long street of farms in the old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and well-cultivated country. The view from the hills over the village, and especially from the still venerated spot where the old chapel stood, is very pleasant, and includes Miscou and Shippigan, the G-aspe ports, and the bold Quebec shores. The Jersey house of Robin & Co. has one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a large business. Caraquette is one of the chief stations of the N. shore fisheries. In the year 1873 the fish product of the three lower Maritime Provinces amounted to the value of $9,060,342. Nova Scotia caught ^6,577.086 worth of fish; and New Brunswick caught % 2,285,660 worth, of which f 527,312 were of salmon, $500,306 of herring, $346,925 of lobsters, $338,699 of codfish, $ 108,514 of alewives, $90,065 of hake, $64,396 of pollock, $45,480 of oysters, $41,851 of smelt, and $35,477 of mackerel. The line of the highway, and the noble-viewing railway track (with several sta- tions) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N. W. to IMedisco : Rochette, 12 M. ; Belledune, 20; Belledune River, 24 ; Armstrong's Brook, 28; River Louison, 33; New Mills, 38 ; River Charlo, 44 ; and Dalhousie, 52. Medisco and Rochette are French villages ; the others are of British origin , and none of them have as many DALHOUSIE. Route 15. 67 as 500 inhabitants. Many small streams enter the bay from this coast, and the ■whole district is famous for its iishing and hunting (water-fowl). The hne of this shore is followed by the Intercolonial Railway. Off Bathurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and the steamer passes out and takes a course to the N. W., passing the hamlet of Rochette, and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing liighlands of tlie Gas- pesian peninsula are seen on the N. with the peak of Tracadiegash. Tlie passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Island is about 7 M. wide; and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer passes Maguacha Point {Maguacha, In- dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the Restigouche Harbor. " To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the most superb and fascinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole region is mountainous, and almost precipitous enough to be alpine; but its grandeur is derived less from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gaspe side precipitous cliffs of brick-red sandstone flank the shore, so lofty that they seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawning with rifts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine, and, tow- ering above them all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunhght Uke a pale blue amethyst.^' (Hallock.) DalhoTisie (five hotels) is a village of 600 inhabitants, situated at the mouth of the long estuary of the Restigouche, and is the capital of Restigouche County. It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and the town is also famous for its shipments of lobstei's and salmon. The salmon fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and productiveness. The line of the Intercolonial Railway is about 4 M. S. of Dalhousie. The site of this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is Mt. Dalhousie, and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. Bo- nami Point is at the entrance of the harbor, and has a fixed white light; and Fleurant Point is opposite the town, across the estuary. " The Bay of Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers the most beautiful scenery to be seen in the Province From Mr. Fraser's to the sea, a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on, among picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in- numerable islands covered with the richest growth of elm and maple The whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 17 M. along the coast of the Bay of Chaleur, on an excellent high-road, presents a succession of beautiful views across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gaspe mountains, always forms a conspicuous object, jutting forward as it does into the sea below Dalhousie." (Hon. Arthur Gordon) " Nothing can exceed the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of the ilestigouche. The pointed hills in the background, the deep green forest with its patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountains, form a pic- ture of the most exquisite kind." (Sir R. Bonntcastle. ) 68 Route 15. CAMPBELLTON. "The expanse of three miles across the mouth of the Restigouche, the dreamy alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of the Bay of Chaleur, present one of the most splendid and fascinating panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles Lanman.) The estuary of the Restigouche is 2-4 M. wide, and extends from Dal- housie to Campbellton, about 16 M. Point a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- housie on the N. shore, and is a bold perpendicu.lar promontory overlooking the harbor. On this and Battery Point (the next to the W.) were the extensive French fortifications wliich were destroyed by Admiral Byron's British squadron in 1780. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have been obtained from the water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky promontory 80 ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spiral mass of granite 700 ft. high, which is accessible by natural steps on the E. Ig M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 5 M. N. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scaumenac Mts., which attains an altitude of 1,745 ft. Campbellton (three hotels) is situated in a diversified region of hills at the head of deep-water navigation on the Restigouche, which is here 1 M. wide. The Bay-Chaleur steamboats leave here twice weekly, for Paspebiac, Gaspe, etc. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is lo- cated here. The adjacent country is highly picturesque, and is studded with conical hills, the chief of which is Sugar Loaf, 900 ft. high. Mission Point is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid off these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as Point-a-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reser^'ations of the Micraac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of the Huron tongue ; while the Mili- cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes have an annual council at Mission Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot Indians are in attendance. The Micmac nation occupies the waste places of the Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gaspe, and numbers over 6,000 souls. These Indians are daring and tireless hunters and fishermen, and lead a life of con- stant roving, gathering annually at the local capitals, — Chapel Island, in Cape Breton ; Ponhook Lake, in Nova Scotia ; and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are increasing steadily in numbers, and are becoming more valuable members of the Canadian nation. They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which was inflicted on them by an invading army of Mohawks, in 1639. The flower of tiic Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy, but they were met by the Mohawks in the Restigouche country, and were annihilated on the field of battle. The chief of the Micmacs at Mssion Point visited Queen Victoria in 1850, and was kindly welcomed and received many presents. When Lord Aylmer, Governor Gen- eral of Canada, visited Gasp6, he was waited on by 500 Indians, whose chief made him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wreck (among other things) a box of decanter-labels, marked Ricvi", Brandt, Gin, etc. , and the noble chief , not knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them , and Burrounded his head with a crown of the same materials. When the British officers recognized the familiar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter as drove the astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. RESTIGOUCHE RIVER. Route 15. 69 3 M. above Mission Point is Point au Bourdo, the ancient site of La Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bonrdo, of the French frigate MarchauU, Avho was killed in the battle off this point and Avas buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equip- ments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. In 1760 Restigouche was .defended by 2 batteries, gari-isoned by 250 French regu- lars, 700 Acadians, and 700 Indians ; and in the harbor lay the French war-vessels Marchault, 32, Bienfaisant , 22, and Marquis Marloye, 18, with 19 prize-ships which had been captured from the English. The place was attacked by a powerful British fleet, consisting of the Fmne, 74, Dorsetshire, Scarborougk, Achilles, and Repulse, all under the command of Commodore John Byron (grandfather of the poet. Lord By- ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- rendered to their formidable antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. The Restigouche River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 M. above Campbellton. It runs thi'ough level lands for several miles above its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil ; and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 30 M. from its mouth it receives the waters of the Metapedia River, flowing down from the Metis Mts. ; and 35 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- abounding Upsalquitch. 21 M. forther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. W. This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory, and is connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy and the River St. LaAvrence. Campbellton to the St. Lawrence River. The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shore of the Restigouche a few miles above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from Campbellton to St. Flavie is 106 M., and the railway-fare is f 3. This road leads across the barren highlands of Gaspe, and through one of the most thinly settled portions of Canada. The French hamlet of St. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia River. Metapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers. The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract a few enthusiastic sportsmen every year. Near the confluence is the old Eraser mansion, famous among the travellers of earlier days. The Intercolonial Railway ci-osses the Resti- gouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond this village is the Metapedia Lake. The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. Avide, and is^^surrounded by low shores of limestone, above and beyond Avhich are distant ranges of highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, whicli is a favorite breeding-place of loons. St. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the S. shore of the Eiver St. Lawrence, and is the point where the Intercolonial Railway reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. It is distant from Campbellton, 106 M.; from Father Point, 15 M.; from Riviere du Loup, 83 M. ; and from Quebec, 210 M. 16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. The Intercolonial Railway. This route traverses the S. E. counties of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at the head of the Bay of Fundj', and after crossing the Cobequid Mts. and rounding the head of Cobequid Bay. runs S. W. to the city of Hahfax. It traverses some in- teresting districts and has a few glimpses of attractive scenery, but the views are generally monotonous and without any striking beauties. During calm and pleasant weather the traveller will find the Annapolis route (see Route 18) much the pleas- anter way to go from St. John to Halifax. There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked through. During the summer there is a day express-ti-ain, leaving St. John at 7 A. M., and due at Ilalifax at 7.40 p. M. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 P. M., and due at Ilalifax at 9 a. m. Pullman-cars have recently been introduced on this line. Stations. — St. John ; Moosepath, 3 M. ; Brookville, 5 ; Torryburn, 6 ; River- side, 7 ; Rothesay, 9 ; Quispamsis. 12 ; Kauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 2*2 ; Pas.<^ekeag, 26; Bloomficld, 27; Norton, 83; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44; Plumwcseep, 47; Penob.'5quis, 51; Anagance,CO; Petitcodiac, 66; PoUet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; Boundary Creek, 79; Moncton, 89; Humphrey, 91 ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- ter Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Jleadow Brook, 101 ; Wemram- cook, 108; Dorchester, 116; Sackville, 127; Aulac, 131; Amherst, 138 ; Nappan, 144; Maccan,147; Athol, 151 ; Spring Hill, 156 ; Salt Springs, 104; River Philip, 167 ; Thompson, 174 ; Greenville, 181 ; Wentworth, 187 ; Folly Lake, 191 ; Loudoa- derry, 199; Debert, 204 ; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnson, 220; Brookfield, 224; Polly Bog, 229; Stewiacke, 283 ; Shubenacadie, 238; Milford, 242; Elmsdale, 247; Enfield, 249; Grand Lake, 254; Wellington, 256; AVindsor Junction, 264; Rocky Lake, 266 ; Bedford, 269 ; Four-Mile House, 273 ; Halifax, 276. Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, 1st class, $2.07, — 2d class, $1.78; to Shediac, 1st class, $! 3, — 2d class, $ 2 ; to Amherst, 1st class, S3. 78, — 2d class, S2.52 ; to Truro, 1st class, 35 5.02, —2d class, $ 3.35 ; to Halifax, l^t class, S 6, — 2d class, $ 4. Fares from Halifax.— Ho Truro, 1st class, $1 86, — 2d class, $1.24 ; to Pictou, 1st class,'$ 3 18, — 2d class. $ 2.12 ; to Amherst, 1st class, $ 3.78, — 2d class, $ 2.52 ; to Sherliac. 1st class, $4.56, — 2d class, $3.04; to Sussex, 1st class, $5.31,— '2d class, % 3 54 ; to St. John, 1st class, $ 6, — 2d class, $ 4. TTay-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 1st class, and 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tariff fixed by the Canadian Government for all distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- ways. On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the train passes out into the Marsh Valley, which is ascended for several miles (see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses Lawlor's LaTce on an embankment which cost heavily, on account of the great depth to.which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebecasis Bay is soon seen, on the L, and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Rothesay (see page 22), and giving pleasant vi^s over the broad waters. Quispam- SUSSEX VALE. Route 16. 71 sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The naiTowing valley is now- followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. Hampton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- cent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John, on account of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. St. Martin's, or Quaco, is about 30 M. S. E., on the Bay of Fundy, and is now connefted with Ilauiptou by a new railway. (It is also visited by daily stage from St. John in 32 M., fare"$ 1.50 ; a rugged road.) This is one of the chief ship- building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inliabitants, with several churches and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, and has recently become a ftivorite point for summer excursions from St. John. The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on Quaco Head, sustaining a revolving white light. The name Quaco is a contractiou of the Indian words Gulwaligakgee, meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow." The shores about Quaco are bold and picturcj^que, fronting the Bay with lofty iron-bound cliffs, among which' are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and crevices are adorned with pine-trees. Quaco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and is 350 ft. high, surrounded 'by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft. in height. This bold promontory i-ises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracy'' s Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for au abundance of trout. 10-12 M. N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond Bloomfield the train reaches Norton^ whence a road runs 7 M. N. W. to Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Ajjohaqui (Apohaqui Hotel) is a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Kennebecasis, and at the mouth of the Mill-stream Valley. The train now reaches Sussex (Exchange Hotel), a pleasant little vil- lage of 400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sussex Vale stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. The Sussex Vale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists (most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary War, and it is now occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Good roads, well-executed bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, high-bred cattle and horses, good conveyances public and private, commodious churches, well-taught schools, well-provided inns, and an intelligent, industrious people, all in the midst of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mountain and meadow, forest and flood, have taken the place of the pathless wilderness, the endless trees, the untaught Indian, and the savage moose." (Prof. Johnston.) Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimp.ses of the long low ridge of Picca- dilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penohsquis station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- facturing Co. and of several salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 M. S. E. to the maritime village of Alma, on the Bay of Fundy, 5 M. N. W. of the shipping-port of Foint Wolf (Stevens's Hotel). 72 Route 16. MONCTON. Petitcodiac {Mansard House; Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Penob-" squis, and is a busy village of 400 inliabitants, many of whom are con- nected with the lumber-trade. 5 M. S. E. is the Pollett River village, near which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where the river, after flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the sand- stone cliffs form picturesque bits of scenery. 15-18 M. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac Eiver, which was settled after the Eevolutionary War by Germans from Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain. Salisbury (two imis) is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. Leaving Salisbury, the Albert Railway runs 45 M. S. E. through the vil- lages of Hillsboro, Albert Mines, and Kiverside, to Albert, the terminus of the line. Hillsboro, a busy village of 700 inhabitants, has 2 hotels, and is a port from which schooners and ships transport the plaster manufactured here in large quan- tities. Albert Alines, once the most valuable coal-mines linown, have lately closed, the supply being exhausted. The village of Biverside may be said to be a part of the village of Albert, the latter being the larger. Albert is the busiest and most picturesque part of the county. It has 3 hotels, a weekly paper {The Maple Leaf), 15 general stores, carriage and furniture manufactories, etc. At this point all the principal highways centre, and it receives the greater part of the county's trade. From the Albert terminus, a railway runs S. 3-4 M. to Harvey Comer and Har- vey Bank, where shipbuilding is extensively carried on. Rocher and Cape Enrag^ lie to the S. W., on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. The Cape is supplied with a fixed light and steam fog-whistle. Continuing on E. from Harvey Bank you come to Mary's Point, the famous freestone quarries of the Provinces and a beautiful summer resort. Another railway runs 18 M. S. TV. from Albert to Alma, a beau- tiful village on the bay shore. Between Albert and Hillsboro is a village of some importance, Hopetvell Cape, where are situated the court-house, jail, and regis- try oflBces. Shepody JSkmntain is the highest in the county (1,050 ft.), and gives a magnificent view of Albert and "Westmoreland Counties. The whole region is rich in mines and quarries, and supplies the tourist with very good scenery, fish- ing, and game. A branch railway runs from Petitcodiac to £lgiu. Beyond Salisbury station the Halifax train runs 13 M. N. E. to Moncton {King's Hotel), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Eailway and the site of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 10 churches, 2 daily papers, and large manufacturing works. Its situation at the head of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and affords opportunity for the visitor to see the great "Bore," or tide-wave, of the Bay of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 4-6 ft. high, sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises 70 ft. The new division of the Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is completed to meet the Canadian railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passes through or near the chief towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bay of Cha- leur for many miles. See page 59 a. Moncton stands next to St. John in importance, and has 6,000 inhabitants, a sugar-refinery, flour-mills, cotton, lock, and knitting factories, etc. The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing Painsec Junction (see page 59) deflects to the S. E. into the Memramcook SACKVILLE. Route 16. 73 Valley.. It soon reaches the connected villages of Memramcook and St, Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district which is inhabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious and sinaple-hearted Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- lies of Leblane, Cormier, Gaudet, and Bouque. On the opposite shore is the College of St. Joseph de Memramcook, where about 100 students (mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college is the handsome stone Church of St. Joseph de Memramcook. The Valley of the Memramcook, down Avhich the train descends to Dor- chester, possesses one of the most charming landscapes in the country. Two high parallel ridges, wooded and well settled, are seen on either hand, while the valley itself, like the Tantramar Marshes, is a dead level, miles in length, being made up from the sea by tidal deposits, and in June it is an ocean of bright green. Dorchester {Dorchester Hotel) is a pros- perous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river and among the finest wheat -lands in New Brunswick. Dorchester has 4 churches, the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous pleasant residences. On the opposite side of the Memramcook, at Rock- land, are quarries of freestone, several thousand tons of which are shipped annually to Boston and New York. Shipbuilding and shipowning is the leading business. The traveller by train is surprised to see vessels of 1,000 tons, being built in the woods, two miles fi-om apparent water. They are launched at high-tides into a creek at hand. A large and im- posing freestone building on the heights above the town is the Maritime Penitentiar}'. A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72) ; and 6-8 M. W. of Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- lies of Belliveau, Gautreault, and Melancon. This settlement was named in honor of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville ( Brunsidck House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar i River, near the head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- leyan College, an institution Avhich was founded by Mr. C. F. AlUson, and is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland be- tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets of Woodpoint (5 M.), Rockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 M. from Sack- ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. 1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamarre, meaaing " a thundermg noiae." 4 74 Route 16. TANTRAMAR MARSH. Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected Bale Verte Canal, a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass from the Bay of i'undy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the isthmus. Tri- weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackville to .Tolicoeur (10 M. ), Baic Verte Road (14 M.), Baic Verte (18 JI., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. ; inn). About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape Tormentine, " the great headland which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point may be said to form the southern, and Cape .Tourimain the northern points of this headland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from its position, but from its dangerous and extensive shoals." The submarine tele- graph to Prince Edward Island crosses from Cape .Tourimain ; and it is from this point that the winter mail-service is conducted, when the mails, passengers, and baggage are subjected to an exciting and perilous transit in ice-boats to Cape Trav- erse. Bale V(!rte is 9 M. wide and 11 M. deep, but affords no good shelter. It re- ceives the Tignish and Gaspereau lUvers, and at the mouth of the latter are the ancient ruins of Fort Moncton. About 200 students attend the Mount-Allison Educational Institution. Sackville possesses 40 square miles of marsh lands, that produce enormous crops of grasses. Large shipments of hay and cattle are made from here; the latter to the English markets. A railway is now being constructed to Cape Tormentine (38 M. E.), by a local company, and will be open for traffic in 1884. It is intended to connect with the P. E. Island Railway system, and to open up a splendid agricultural country. The bogs and lakes at the head of the marshes are haunts of snipe and duck, and are a favorite resort of sportsmen. At Sackville the Halifax train crosses the Tantramar Eiver, and runs out over the wide Tantramar Marsh to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to Cape Tormentine), near Avhich it crosses the Aulac River. Trains are sometimes blocked in on these plains during the snow-stoi-ms of winter, and the passengers are subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. The.se forts are best visited from Amherst, which is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached after ti-av- ersing the Missiguash Marsh. The Missiguash River is the boundary between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is the first town reached in the latter Province. Fort Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine Railway, whereby it is intended to carry ships of 1,000 tons with their cargoes between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, a distance of 17 M. The Canadian Government has subsidized the pro- ject with $150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company began work in 1883. This scheme is a substitute for the Bale Verte Canal, which was abandoned in 1875. Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. Is^OVA SCOTIA. The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and the Gulf of St. Law- rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by the ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, from Cape.Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 50 M. to 104 M. The area of the peninsula is 10,000 square miles. The population is 440,572, of whom 117,487 are Roman -Catholics, 112,000 Pres- byterians, 83,500 Baptists, G<),255 Church of England people, 51,000 Metho- dists, and G8 Unitarians. 405,000 are natives of Nova Scotia, and 21,000 from the British Islands. " Acadle is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" (Southern France, Sardinia, Lombardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- eries on the coasts are abundant. The harbors are numerous and excel- lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are successfully raised. Of fruit there ai-e many wild kinds, and the apple, pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. The vine thrives ; good grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except the olive. "In the peninsula, or Acadie proper, there is an abundance of mineral wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou; iron ore, in Colchester and Annapolis Counties ; gypsum, in Hants ; marble and limestone, in dif- ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and 76 NOVA SCOTIA. Pictou; granite, near Halifax, Shclburne, etc.; brick clay, in the counties of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the Annapolis liiver. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of the peninsula of Nova iScotia has tiiken place since 18G0, and it now gives steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines amounts to $400,000 a year. In 1881, Nova Scotia iiad 440,572 inhabitants, of whom 140,027 are of Scotcii origin, 128,!J8G English, G(),0G7 Irish, 41, 210 French. Of these, 117,487 are Roman Catholics, 112,488 rresbyterians, 83,7G1 Baptists, 60,255 of the Church of England, and 50,811 Molliodists. The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie,^ and was the scene of fre- quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the Northmen, about the year 1000 A. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered it in 1408, In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles to f(jUMd colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers frequented these shores for over a century. In 1005 a settlement was founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, but it was bi'oken up in 1C18 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadie belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discover}^ In 1G21 James I. of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called NovA Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1G32, and the rival French nobles. La Tour and D'Aulnay, commenced their fratri- cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1G54 the Province was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest soon regained its former position. The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles I., in 1(J25, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime Cardinal Riciielieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful French association called the Com[)any of New France (1627). It con- 1-Arnrlia is tlifi Anglicized (or Jyutiiiizcd) fomi of Acn(Uo., an Indian word sipnifying " tlie pliicf," or " tlic r('f,'ioii." It is a part of tin; (:oini)Oiincn-uc(ir French officers). The * view from the bastions of Fort Cumberland is famous for its extent and beauty. It includes Sackville and its colleges on the N. W., Amherst and the Nova-Scotian shores on the S^ E., and the bluff and hamlet of Fort Lawrence. The wide and blooming expinse of the Tantramar and Missiguash Marshes is over- looked, — the view including over 50,000 acres of rich marine intervale, — and on the S. the eye travels for many leagues down the blue sheet of the Bay of Fundy (Cumberland Basin). The great Tantramar Marsh is S. of Sackville, and is 9 M. long by 4 M. wide, being also traversed by the Tantramar and Aulac Rivers. It is composed of hue silicious matter deposited as marine alluvium, and is called "red marsh," in dis- tinction from the " blue marsh " of the uplands. The low shores around the head of the Bay of Fundy for a distance of 20 M. have been reclaimed by the erection of dikes, with aboideaux at the mouths of the rivers to exclude the flow of the tides. The land thus gained is very rich, and produces fine crops of English hay, avcr.vg- ing from 1)^ to 2 tons to the acre. The land seems inexhaustible, having been cul- tivated now for nearly a century without rotation or fertilization. The Chignecto Peninsula. Minudie is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with which it is connected by a ferry across the estuaries of the Maccan and Hebert Rivers. It has 600 inhabitants, and is near the rich meadows called the Elysian Fields. In the vicinity are profitable quarries of grindstones, and there are shad-fisheries to the S. ^V^ 6-8 M. S. are the JoggJus Mines, pertaining to the General Mining Association of London ; and the Victoria Mines, on the river Hebert. Coal has been obtained thence for 25 years. This dis- trict is reached by stages from Maccan station. About the year 1730 the coal-mines at Chignecto were leased to a Boston company, whicli was to pay a quit-rent of one penny an acre (on 4,000 acres), and a royalty of 18 pence per chaldron on the 'coal raised. But this entei-prise was broken up in 1782, when the warehouses and ma- chinery were destroyed by the Indians (probably incited by the French at Louis- bourg). 80 Route 17. COBEQUID MTS. The JogiErins Shore extends to the S.W. along the Chignecto Channel, and is remarkable for its geological peculiarities, which have been visited and studied ty European savans. The local explanation of the name is that the cliffs here "jog in '' and out in an unexampled manner. The height of the cliffs is from 130 to 400 ft. ; and the width of the Chignecto Basin is from 5 to 8 M. 35-40 M. from Amherst is Aj)rle River ^ a sequestered hamlet on the estuary of the Apple River, amidst fine marine scenery. Apple Head is just W. of this place, and is 413 ft. high, overlooking the Chignecto Channel and the New-Brunswick shores. There is a fixed white light on its outer point. To the E , Apple River traverses the Caribou Plains, and on its upper waters affords the best of trout-fishing, with an abundance of salmon between February and July. 15-20 M. S. W. of Apple River, by a road which crosses the Cobequid Mts. E. of Cape Chignecto, is Advocate Harbor (see Route 21). ' ' The road from Amherst to Parrsboro- is tedious and uninteresting. In places it is made so straight that j'ou can see several miles of it before you, which produces an appearance of interminable length, while the stunted growth of the spruce and birch trees bespeaks a cold, thin soil, and invests the scene with a melancholy and flterile aspect." (Judge IIaliburton.) This road is 36 M. long, ascending the val- ley of the Maccan River, and passing the hamlet of Cannan, near the Cobequid Mts. The Halifax train runs S. from Amherst to Maccan (stages to Minudic andJoggins), in the great coal-field of Cumberland Comity. Daily stages run from Athol station to Parrsboro'. From Athol the line passes to Spring Hill, a coal-mining district, whence a railway has been constructed to Parrs- boro' (see Route 21). 11 M. beyond is the station at liive^^ Philip (small hotel), a pleasant stream in which good fishing is found. The salmon are especially abundant during the springtime. Oxford station (two inns) has two small woollen factories, and is 14 M. S. W. of Pugwash, on the Northumberland Strait. A railroad runs hence to the North Shore. The train now passes through extensive forests, in which many sugar- maples are seen, and begins the ascent of the Cobequid Mts., Avith the Wallace Valley below on the 1. The Cobequid range runs almost due E. and W. from Truro, and is 100 M. long, with an average breadth of 10-12 M. It consists of a succession of rounded hills, 800- 1,000 feet high, cov- ered with tall and luxuriant forests of beech and sugar-maple. From Thomson, Greenville, and Wentworth stations stages run to Wallace and Pugwash (see page 81), also to Westchester. The railway traverses the hill-country by the Folhj Pass, and has its heaviest grades between Folly Lake and Londonderry; where are also 2-3 M. of snow-sheds, to protect the deep cuttings from the drifting in of snow fi-om the hills. Fine views of the Wallace Valley are afforded from the open levels of the line. From Londonderry a railway runs to Acadia Mines, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, with 4 chui-ches. Here are the blast-furnaces and rolling-mill of the Can- ada Steel Co. The ores are magnetic, specular, and hematite, and occur in a wedge-shaped vein 7 M. long and 120 ft. thick. The iron is of fine quality, but is difficult to Avork. The train descends from the Pass along the line of the Folly River, which it crosses on a bridge 200 feet above the water. Beyond the farming set- tlement of Debert (stages to Economy and Five Islands) the descent is con- tinued, and occasional views of the Cobequid Bay are given as the train passes across Onslow to Truro. The landscape now becomes more pleas- ing and thickly settled. "* TRURO. Route 17. 81 Truro (Parher House ; Prince of Wales Hotel ; Victoria) is a wealthy and prosperous town of over 4,000 inhabitants, and occupies a pleasant situation 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay (an arm of the Basin of Minas). The level site of the town is nearly surrounded b^' an amphi- theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the W. are the old diked meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County and the seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuildino- are carried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, in- cluding boots and shoes, woollens, and iron-wares. The neighboring county has valuable farming-lands, and contains several iron-mines. Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- sion from Nova Scotia was occupied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire la 1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the peaceful pursuits of agriculture. Stages also run S. W. to Old liarns, on the S. shore of Cobequid Bay, and S E 15 M.^to Middle Stewiacke, on tlie Stewiacke River. f departure for the Pictou Branch of tl The North Shore of Nova Scotia. Truro is the point of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Rail- ■way (see Route 31). In passing from Ti'uro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid Mts. and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche (two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,500 inhabitants. Some ship- building is done here, and there are freestone quarries in the vicinity. 6 M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harbor, and 6 M. farther E., also on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at the mouth of the River John, is the shipbuilding settlement of Etver John, which Avas founded by Swiss Protestants in 1763. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. Blair's stage runs W. from Tatamagouche to Wallace (two inns), a town of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep waters of Wallace Harbor (for- merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. The Provincial Building at Plalifax was made of Wallace stone. To the N. E., beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, is the marine hamlet of Fox Harbor, whose original settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugioash (small inn) is 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 3,300 4* p 82 Route 17. GOLD MINES. inhabitants. The harbor, though difficult of access, is deep and well shel,- tered, and has several ship-yards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- wash are deals and lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. The Halifax train runs S. from Truro to Broohfield, whence hay and lumber are exported, and then to Stewiache, which is 3 M. from the pretty farming village of the same name, on the Stewiacke River. The next sta- tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little manufacturing village on the river of the same name. Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the town of Wlaitland (two inns), at the mouth of the river (see Route 22). Stages also run S- E. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay's River (7 M.), Gay's River Road (14 ?I ), Middle Musquodoboit (21 M.), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.)) Melrose, Guysborough, and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River in 1862, in the cenglomerate rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the ailuvial de- posits found in the placer-diggings of Cahfornia, and the stream-washings have yielded as high as an ounce per man daily. Scientific mining was begun in 18G3, but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-town with about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar's Back ridge, 42 M. from Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines, where gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have been worked systematically, and are considered among the most valuable in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, valued at $ 61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3J M. S. of Enfield, and are in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold were sent from the Oldham diggings, and it is thought that yet richer lodes may be found at a greater depth. Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway at Windsor Junction. . Station, Rocky LaJce^ on the lake of the same name, where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Waver- ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in barrel -quartz, so named because it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and has about 600 inhabitants. >" ANNAPOLIS KOUTE. Route 18. 83 After crossing Rocky Lake the train soon reaches the shores of the beautiful Bedford Basin, and follows their graceful curves for several miles. On the L are fine views of the villas and hiUs beyond the blue water. Halifax, see page 93. 18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the Maritime Provinces. After a passage of about 4 hours in the steamer, across the Bay of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis the passenger takes the train of the \Yindsor & Annapolis Railway, which runs through to Halifax. The line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- try^, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 86 M. less than by the Intercolonial Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same, on account of the delay in crossing the Bay of Fundy. The Aunapolis-Hahfax hne is only prac- ticable 4 times a week. The steamer leaves St, John at 8 A. M. , on Monday, Wednes- day, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the express trains which leave Annapolis at 2 p.m. and arrive at Hahfax at about 8 p. m. Express trains leave Hahfax at 8.15 a. m on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which leaves Annapolis at 2.35 P. m. and arrives at St. John at 8 P. M. Fares. — ^t. John to Halifax, 1st class, $5; 2d class, §3.50; to Digby, $150; •n ?,^P^^^^ *2. Passengers for Halifox dine on the steamer and take tea at Kent- ville (,10 minutes) ; those for St. John dine at Kentville (18 minutes) and take tea on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and Annapolis. Special rates are made for excursions (limited tune) by the agents of this route, Small & Hathaway, 39 Dock St., St John. Distances. — St John to Digby, 43 M.; Annapolis, 61 ; Round Hill, 68 : Bridge- town /o; Paradise 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92 ; Kingston, 96 ; Morden Road 101 ; Aylesford, 103 ; Berwick, 108 ; W^aterville, 111 ; Cambridge 113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127 ; Grand lin' T?i' M ""^.o^^.'li^",' 131; Avonport, 133; Hantsport, 138; Mount Denson, 140; Falmouth, 143; V\indsor, 14o ; Three-Mi le Plains, 148 ; Newport, 151 ; Ellers- houselo4; Stillwater, 15/; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174 ; Windsor Junc- tion, 1/ < ; Rocky Lake, 1/9 ; Bedford, 182 ; Four-Mile House, 186 ; Halifax, 190. The steamer Empress leaves her wharf at Eeed's Point, St. John, and soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coast, and the steamer sweeps out into the open bay. In ordinary summer weather the bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller. Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Bigby Gut, which, in the earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by Prim Point, with its fog- whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on the 1. are 610 feet high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide rushes with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful swirls and eddies over 12-25 fathoms of water. After running for about 2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. 84 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. "The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on them. But as 1 thiuk of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsidea that stand about the basin in the light we saw them ; and especially do I like to recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind that the passengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind the windy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (W'arnle's Baddedc.) Digby {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,800 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 30 shops, situated on the S. W. shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in shipbuilding and the fish- eries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby herring are famous for tlieir delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as "Digby chickens." Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. Quite recently Digby has become well known as a summer-resort. The fogs which hang like a pall over the Bay of Fund}^ are not encountered here-, and the lovely scenerj^ hereabouts, and boating, bathing, and fishing afford suflicient amusement. The comfortable Myrtle House, near the water, amid three acres of fruit-orchards, is crowded all summer by Americans and Canadians. There is a steamship line from Boston to Digby direct. A French fort stood here in the early days; and in 1783 the township was granted to the ex-American Loyalists. Stages run to Annapolis, and a railroad to Yarmouth. " That portion of Acadia at which the voyagers had now arrived is distinguished by the beauty of its scenery. The coast along which they had previously sailed is comparatively rugged. But on entering the Ba.sin the scene is changed, many of the peculiar elements which lend a charm to the Acadian landscape being found in har- monious combination. Towards the east, islands repose on the bosom of the deep, their forms being vividly mirrored on its placid surface, and from which canoes may be seen darting towards the mainland, with their paddles fitfully flashing in the sunlight. In the distance are graceful, undulating hills, thickly clad, from base to summit, with birch, maple, hemlock, and spruce woods, constituting an admirable background to the whole scene." (Campbell's History of Nova Scotia.) The noble * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly b M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the North Mt. and the South Mt. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., and is bold and mountainous 'in its outlines. The South Mt. is from 300 to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. was once insulated, and the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a shoal at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, and this in time became dry land and a water-shed. Between the head of Argyle Ba}^ and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- tains. " The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, in order to offer sacrifices to their gods." " We were sailing along the gracefully moulded and tree-covered hills of the An- napolis Basin, and up the mildly picturesque river of that name, and we were about to enter what the provincials all enthj^iastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. .... It i.-^, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the belief of provincials, the most beau- tiful and blooming place in the world, with a soil and chmate kind to the husband- ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route 18. 85 man, a land of fair meadows, orchards, and vines It was not until we had travelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here as in some other parts of the world." Soon after leaving Digby, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r., in front of the little port of Bear River (inn), Avhich has a foundry, tanneries, and saw-mills. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- wood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A few miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of Clementsport (two inns), where large iron-works were formerly established, in connection with the ore-beds to the S. Roads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes (see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Clemenfsvale. 8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which Lescarbgt writes, in Les Muses de la Nouvelle France (1609) : " Adieu men doux plaisir fonteines et ruisseaux. Qui les vaux ot les monts airousez de vos eaux. PoLirray-je t'oublier, belle ile foretiere Kiche hunuL-ur de ce lieu et de cette riviere ?" In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigantines were sailing up the Basin to attack Annapolis, when they met such a sharp volley from the lie aux Chevres that they vvere forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island was Ano-M- cized by_ translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers and was restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by French troops. In 182 < a stone block was found on the point, inscribed with a ToZf^i 'T^-""'' t- 'i ^^^ l""^^ '.' 1^^^-" ^"^ ^^^^^ 1'82, there w'as a naval combat on boat Island, m which an American war-brig of 8 guns was captured by H. M. S. Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- streets. To the N. E., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf after passing under the massive walls of the old fortress. There are sev- eral small inns here, the Dominion, Commercial, American, Foster, Per- kins, Hillsdale, Granville, etc., and Mrs. Grassie's and Mrs. Cro'zier's summer boarding-houses. Their rates are $5-6 a week; and board can be obtained on adjacent farms for $3-5 a week. There are weekly steamers between Boston and Annapolis. Stages run from Annapolis to Clements- port, 81 M.; Victoria Bridge, 13i; Digby, 20^; railway thence to Yar- mouth, 87^. Stages also run S. E. 78 M. to Liverpool (see Route 27). Annapolis Royal, the capital of Annapolis County, is a maritime and agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- tains 1,200 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the oppol-tunities for salt- water fishing in. the Basin, and trouting among the hills to the S. The chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres with its ramparts and outworks. It is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 86 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. last occupations was that of the Eifle Brigade, in 1850; but the post was' abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- tions which tliinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed into a state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an ancient archway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the parade-ground, on wliich are the quaint old English barracks, with steep roofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a vaulted roof of masonry, near which are the foundations of the French barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards Clementsport. On the hillside be^'ond the marsh is seen an ancient house of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., and the Ba,sin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses to Granville, a little shipbuilding village, with 700 inhabitants. A road leads hence across the North Mt. in 4r-5 M., to Hillshurn and Leitchjield. " Annapolis Royal is a picturesque little town, almost surrounded by water, at the head of the Annapolis Basin. On both sides of the Basin rise mountains whose background of vegetation lends a peculiar charm to the landscape. Fruit of almost every kind common to this continent may be found here in its season. East- ward you may proceed by railway to the scene of Longfellow's great poem of ' Evange- line ' through a perpetual scene of orchards, dike lands, and viUages, skirted on both sides by dreamy mountains, till you reach the grand expanse of the Basin of Minas, with Blomidon, the abode of sea-nymphs, holding eternal guard in the distance. Annapolis, Royal and Granville Ferry offer special sanitary privileges to the weary, the invalid, and the pleasure-seeker ; bathing, trouting, hunting, boat- ing, picnicking, are all enjoyed in turn. From the mountain slopes, whither parties go for a day's enjoyment, the prospect is unrivalled, and the air invigorating. The thermometer rarely rises above 90 degrees in the daj', while the night air is cool enough for blankets and light overcoats. A moonhght excursion on the Basin is something to remember for a lifetime." The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In July, 1606, Lescarbot and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored the Massachusetts coast. 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well and favorably until De Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- doned. ANNAPOLIS EOYAL. Route 18. 87 Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne ■with a deep cargo of supplies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out from Dieppe (Feb. 26, 1610) On arriving at Port Roj'al, everj'thing was found as ■when left: and the work of proselyting the Indians was at once entered on. Mem- bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the cannon and the chanting of the Te Deujn ; and numerous other forest-clans soon foUo-sved the same course. Poutrincourt was a Gallicap^ Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to take out two of them to his new domain. They assumed a high authority there, but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you on earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal under interdict ; and Poutrincourt's son and successor so greatly resented this that they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de Guercheville, and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengeful Jesuits piloted their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came out in 1614 only to find his colony in ruins, and the remnant of the people wandering in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he returned to France, where he was killed, the next year, in the battle of Mery-sur-Seine. It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and France in North Amei-ica, " which scarcely ever entirely ceased until, at the cost of infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by the peace of 1763." Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1684: it was granted to Claude de Razilly, " Seigneur de Razilly, des Eaux Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold naval officer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at Lahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Churnisay and Charles de la Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, after which began the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in alliance with La Tour, assailed Port Royal. In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Aulnay's estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of Vendome, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but the in- habitants of the valley were not disturbed. By the census of 1671 there were 361 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was captured by English " coi'sairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 1690 the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war- vessels and 700 men. A few months later it was plundered by corsairs from the West Indies, and in 1691 the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Hontan wrote : " Port Royal, the capital, or the only city of Acadia, is in effect no more than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. An attempt at storming the works by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's vigH^nce and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally forced to retire with sevei-e loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston, and planned to capture Rhode Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even pirates." In the autumn of 1710 the frigates Dragon, Chester, Falmouth. Leostaffe, Fevers- ham, Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royal. 88 HoutelS. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. There -were 2 regiments from Massachusetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 of Royal Marines. After the erection of mortar-batteries, several days were spent in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-lines, but the fire fmm the ram- parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the verge of starvation ; Suber- case then surrendered his forces (258 men), who were shipped off to France, and Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annapolls Royal, in honor of Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 12 M. up the river, and the fortress was then invested by the Acadians and Micmacs, For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost always in a state of siege, being menaced from time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 1744 the non-combatants wore sent to Boston for safety, and in July of that year the fort was beleaguered by a force of fanatic Catholics under the Abb(3 Laloutre. Five companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly three months, but Gov. Blascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng's Boston squadron arrived. A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 50, and Shirley, 20, which were lying in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace until 1781, when two American war-vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the town, after locking the citizens up in the old block-house. The Annapolis Valley. This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see page 84) expresses the natural reaction which must be felt by travellers (unless they are from Newfoundland or Labrador) after comparing the actual valley with these high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says : '' The route of the Wind- sor & Annapolis Railway lies through a magnificent farming-country whose beauty is so great that wc exhaust the English language of its adjectives, and are compelled to revert to the quaint old French which was spoken by the early settlers of this Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis region is far inferior cither in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have laeen described without effusion and without impressing the service of alien languages. The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley, in the process of a closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insufiBcient popula- tion, among whose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, blooming during its brief summer, and Mill afford a series of pretty views and pleas- ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Valley are the best in America, and 50,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large proportion of which is exported. The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown (3 small hotels) is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head of navigation on the river. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, 4 churches, and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple-orchards and rich pastures. Some manuf^turing is done on the water-power of WILMOT SPRINGS. Route 18. 89 the Annapolis River and its branches; and the surrounding country is well populated, and is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova Scotia. To the S. is Bloody Brooh, where a detachment of New-England troops was massacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over the South Mt. into the interior, dotted with small hamlets, inhabited by the descendants of old soldiers. Many large lakes and streams filled with trout, and good huntiug-grounds are in this region. Paradise (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- itants, with several saw and grist mills and tanneries. The principal exports are lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mer- chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port Williams, 7 M. distant, a fishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove. Lawrtncetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were grante'd to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov, LaAvrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet of Haveloch, beyond which is the farming settlement of Mt. Ilanley, near the Bay of Fundy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central wilderness is the fanning district of Springfield, beyond the South Mt. Middhton (Middleton Hotel), a small village near the old iron-mines on the South Mt., is the valley terminus of the Nictaux & Atlantic R. R. A few miles S. are the Nictaux Falls, a prett}' cascade on a small mountain- stream. 1^ M. from Middleton is the hamlet of Lower Middleton, sur- rounded by orchards. Wilviot station is ^ M. from Farmington (two inns), a pleasant little Presbyterian village. Margaretsville (Harris's Hotel) is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., and is a shipbuilding and fish- ing settlement of 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit and lumber are exported hence to the United States. The TVilmot Sprintjs are about 3 M. from Farmington, and have, for many years, enjoyerl a local celebrity for their efiRcacy in healing cutaneous diseases and •wounds. Hall's Hotel is at the Springs, with pleasant grounds and a goodly pat- grains of soda and potash, and 3 grains of magnesia. Many visitors pass the summer at Wilmot every year, on account of the benefits resulting from the use of these ■waters. Kingston station is 1^ M. from Kingston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 2i M. from Tremont, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets in the valley. From Morden Road station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. across the North Mt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Bal- comb's Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station, Aylesford (Patterson's Hotel) a small hamlet from which a road runs S. E. to Factory Dale (4 M.), a man- 90 Route 18. ' KENTVILLE. ufacturing hamlet whence the valley is overlooked ; and the farming towns of Jacksonville and Morristown are 5 - 7 M. away, on the top of the South Mt. ILake George (HalPs inn) is 12 M. distant, whence the great forest-bound chain of the Ayle>.ford Lakes may be visited. The chief of these is Kempt Lake, ■svhich is about 7 M. long. A road runs S. from the Lake George settlement by Lake Paul and Owl Lake to Falkland (32 M. from Ayle.-ford), which is on the great Lake Sherbrooke, in Lunenburg County, near the head-waters of the Gold Kiver. " The great Aylesford sand- plain folks call it, in a ginral way, the Devil's Goose Pasture. It is IS M. long and 7 M. wide ; it ain't just drifting sands, but it 's all but that, it 's so barren. It 's uneven, or wavy, like the swell of the sea in a calm, and is covered with short, thin, dry, coarse grass, and dotted here and there with a half-starved birch and a stunted misshapen spruce.. It is jest about as silent and lonesome and desolate a place as you would wish to see All that country thereabouts, as I have heard tell when I was a boy, was once owned by the Lord, the king, and the devil. The glebe-lands belonged to the first, the ungranted wil- derness-lands to the second, and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last (and people do say the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but that is neither here nor there), and so it is called to this day the DeviVs Goose Pasture.'''' Station, Bericich (two inns), a prosperous village of 400 inhabitants, where the manufacture of shoes is carried on. A road leads to the N. W. 7 M. across Pleasant Valley and the Black Rock Mt. to Harborville, a ship- building village on the Bay of Fundy, whence large quantities of cordwood and potatoes are shipped to the United States. Several miles farther up the baj^-shore is the village of Canada Creek, near which is a lighthouse. At Berwick the line enters the * Cornwallis Valley, which is shorter but much more picturesque than that of Annapolis. Following the course of the Cornwallis River, the line approaches the base of the South Mt., while the North Mt. ti'ends away to the N. E. at an ever-increasing angle. Beyond the rural stations of Waterville, Cambridge, and Coldbrook, the train reaches Kentville {Webster House; restaurant in the station), the headquarters of the railway and the capital of Kings County. This town has 3,000 inhabitants, 5 churches, and a weeldy newspaper; and there are several mills and quarries in the vicinity. Raw umber and manganese have been found here. The roads to the N. across the mountain lead to the maritime hamlets of Hall's Harbor (10 M.), Chipman's Brook (14 M.), and Baxter's Harbor (12 M.); also to Sheflaeld Mills (7 M.), Canning (8 M.), Steam Mills (2 M.), and Billtown (6 M.). Kentville to Chester. The Royal mail-stages leave Kentville at 6 A. M. on Monday and Thursday, reach- ing Chester in the afternoon. The return trip is made on Tuesday and Friday. The distance between Kentville and Chester is 46 M., and the intervening country is wild and picturesque. After passing the South Mt. by the Mill-Brook Valley, at 8-10 M. from Kentville, the road runs near the Gaspereavx Lake, a beautiful forest-loch about 5 M. long, with many islands and highly diversified shores. This Avater is connected by short straits with the island-studded Two-Mile Lake and the Four-Mile Lake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. E. and S. E. of the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless solitudes of the far-spreading Blue Mts., amid whose recesses are the lakelets where the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. from Kentville the stage enters the Episcopal village of Neio Ross (Turner's Hotel), at the crossing of the Dalhousie Road"*:om Halifax to Annapolis. From this poiat the stage descends the valley of the Gold River to Chester (see Route 24). WINDSOR. Route 18. 91 The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Cornwallis Valley to Port Williams, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily- stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land of Evangeline ma}' most easily be visited (see Eoute 22). The buildings of Acadia College are seen on the hill to the r. of the track. The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the reclaimed meadows on the 1., beyond which is Cape Blomidon, looming leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Pre, and as it slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the \ track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Be3'ond //o?^- I ton Landing the Gaspei'eaux River is crossed, and the line begins to swing I around toward the S. E. At Avonjjort the line reaches the broad Avon Eiver, and runs along its 1. bank to Hanisport (two inns). This is a large manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels are ov^med. In the vicinity are productive quarries of freestone. Mount Denson station is near the hi]l whose ofF-look Judge Haliburton so highly ex'ols: — " I have seen at different periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of America ; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the Basin of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your ascent of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary basin, may be said to have missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water." The next station is Falmouth, in a region which abounds in gypsum. Back toward Central Falmouth there are prolific orchards of apples. The line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," who says that the Avon " would have been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and then the other and then vanishes altogether." The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) " river-bottom entirely bare, with only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- dle in the turbid and whirling stream." Windsor {Clifton House, large and comfortable; Avon House: Victoria) is a cultured and prosperous town of 3,019 inhabitants, occupying the promontory at the intersection of the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. The adjacent districts of Falmouth and St. Croix have about 6,000 inhabitants. There are in Windsor 7 churches, 2 banks, an iron foundry, furniture factories, shipyards, etc. Tlie chief exportation of Windsor is plaster of Paris, or gypsum, large quantities of which are used in the United 92 Route IS. WINDSOR. j States for fertilizing the soil and calcining purposes. Near the end of the railway bridge, on a projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the i home of the genial and witt}'- Thomas C. Haliburton (born at "Windsor in , 1797, 13 years a Judge in Nova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and ' died in 1805), the author of "Sam Slick, The Clockmaker," etc. i On the knoll over the village are the crumbling block-houses and earth- works of Fort Edward, whence is obtained a pretty view down the widen- ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from the station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of the Aa'ou and its uncleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the oldest college now existing in Canada. It was founded in 1788. and chartered by King Georgo TIT. in 1802. It is under the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is well endowed with soholnr- ships, honors, etc. Its officers must belong to the Church of England, though there arc no tests for admission of students. Many of the most influential and dislingnished Kritish-Americans have been educated here, and " Kingsmen " are found in all parts of Canada. The college has (5 professors and about 40 students. There is also a divinity school in connection with the college. Tiie Province of Nova Scotia is occupied by 36 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 55,124 belong to the Anglican Church, and are ministered to by a lord bishop, 4 canons, 8 rural deans, and 68 clergymen. There are 102,001 Catholics, 103,539 Pres- byterians, 73,430 Baptists, 41,751 Methodists, and 4,958 Lutherans (census of 1871). The site of "Windsor was called by the Indians Pisirjnid, " the Junction of the Waters," and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston. The French settled in this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired far into the interior at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been cultivated anil had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- tury Avithout failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by families from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess the land. The llhode-Islandei-s erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts formed Falmouth, and ^Vindsor was granted to British officers and was fortified in 1759. The broad rich marshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula- tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- mac Indians. " I cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt ray word, come and see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a hill; opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." (Cozzi.KS.) Another writer has spoken with enthusiasm of Windsor's " wjde and beautiful envu'ouing mead- ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S. and W." The Hiilifax ti-ain sweeps along the St. Croix River around Windsor, passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with the new chapel in front of their line. The character of the landscape be- gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural regions just traversed. " Indeed, if a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between Windsor and Halifax. AVith the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing but rocks and stunted lira for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- turesque feature. Then Me longed for the ' Gai'den of Nova Scotia,' and understood what is meant bj^ the name." ( W'arner's Baddeck.) Beyond Three-Mile Plains t^e train reaches Newport, near which large B. 3, B. 3. C. 3. />. 2. A 2. C. 2. W. 4. B. 3. :£. 1. S3. Officer^ (Quarters, 24. Military Hospital, 25. ^«^i7»'j Z>ofi{ rariJrin« (I. Iieavy Hiiow-Mtorin, hclorc dawn oti Feh. IJ, the tf)WM •wa.s at- tacked by y4\ AnierieanH were )atti(!. 'I'lio Mhorert of tlie IJanin of MinaH were nettled in the early part of the 17th rentury by iiiiiiiixiMntH from l>a lloclu lie, f^i;iiitong(!, and J'oiton. They f people alien, t Windsor and to the K, ; and ll.vndfield put the- I'K nch Anna|ioli(,'in,M on slii|)ho,")il, c-xeejit a. few who esciiped into the woods. Wii^dow collected I ,U!J.'j jicrsonH at (irand j'rcj and embarked them, and hnrii((l IZrif) houses, 270 baTUK, and 11 n.ills. (Winslow was a MaKachusctIs oflicer. and '2().>caTS later his own fan ily wan driven into exile for Uoslility to America.) The people of Grand I'r^ were scut to North Carolina, Virgirilfi, and Maryland. GRAND rUE. Roidc2^. lOD " While wo SCO plaiuly tlint Enp;I;i.nd could never really control this Trovince while thoy nMniiincil in it, nil our iiH>lin52:H of hunmnity are alfected by the removal itself, and .slill more by the seventy oftiie attendant eireuiusta.nees They were the victiins ()ffj;rea,t error on their own iiart, a,nd of delusive views that lalse friends lia,il instilled into tiieir minds, and the impulses of national ambiliou and Jealousy (ii-eci)>it;i!,ed tlu-ir file. It is, however, some ('(insolation to know that very many of tlu' exiles rctiUMied within a. few vtM.r.s to their native laud, and th(iU!j;h not r(>stored lo their native firms, tli(>y beeanie an in((^!J;ral and resiuieted portion of our poitula- tion, (lisplMyiufi;, under all changes, those simple virtues that they had inherited, — the same modest, lunnble, and p(>ac(>abl(i disjiositiou , that had been tiieir early attri- butes." (Muiinooii.) (See also (Ii.ark, Cuio'/zctoook, and 'ruAcADn',.) In 17(10 a, lar.L!;*! colony of fanulies from (lonueelicut, in a, lle(>t of 22 V(\ssels con- voyed by a man-of-war, a,rrives, which the uufortunab; KnMich had used in convoy ins their ba{;'sajj,'c to tlie "vessels that carried them away from tlio C(mutry ; and' at the skirts of the forest. hca,ps of the bones of sluvi> and horned cat- tle, that, dcs(!rled by tiieir owners, had perished in wint(>r from the lack (if food. 'L'hey also met witli !i few stra|!;,t;-linjj; families of Acadiaiis who had escaped from the serntinizinij; search of the soldiers at the removal of their eouutrvnuMi, and who, afraid of slia,riu.u; the same fa.te, had not vcuturcHl to till the land, or to appear in th(M)p(Mi country. They had ea,t(Mi no bnvid for live y(\'U's, and had subsisted on ve[,'etablos, llsh, and the'more hardy iiart of the cattle that had survived the sever- ity of th(! first winter of their abandoinnent." (IIai.uiurton.) " This is the forest primeval. 'The mnnDurinp; pines nnd tlie hemlocks, Hoarded with moss, and iu f>;armeuts }i;reeii, indistinct in the twilight, Stand lik(^ Druids of eld, with voices sad and iirophetie, Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that r(\st on their bosoms. Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced nei^hborin};' ocean Speaks, and in accents disconsolate a,nswers the wail of the forest. " This is the forc^st ])rinieval ; but where are tlu^ hearts that h(\iiea.th it Leaped like tb.e roc, wIkmi he hears iu the woodland t\w voice of tho huntsman? Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadia.u farmers, — Men whose liv(\s p;liil(>d on like rivers tli.at wa.t(M* the woodland.'^, DarkeiiiMl by shadows ofciirth, but ri'llccliuj;' an im;if;"e of heaven ? \Va.ste ar(^ those (ilcasant farms, and the farmers (urcver dcjiarted ! Scattered lik(! dust and leaves, when the nni;hty blasts of OctolKU' Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle tluan fir o'er tli(^ ocean. Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful villagH! of Grand Pr»i. " Iu th(! Acadian land, on the shores of th(\ l?asin of Minas, Distant, secluded, still, tlu! little village of (Irand l'ri'< Ija.y in i\w, fruitful valUw- Vast m(>adows stretched to the eastward, Giving the village its name, JUid |ia,sture to Hocks wil-hout number. Bikes, that the hands of tlu! farmers had raised with Labor incessant, Shut out the turbulent tides; but at certain seasons the Ilood-gates ' Opened, and welcomed the sea. to w.ander at will o'er the nuMidows. West and south th(M'e wmw tic^lds of Ihix, and oi'chards and corn-li(0(ia Spreading afar and iinfeneed o'er tli(\ plain; .and .away to tlu^ northward iJlomidon ros(>, iuid the forests old, .and aloft on the mounliiins Sead'ogs |)itehed tlaar tents, and mists from the mighty Atlanti(5 Looked on the ha])py valley, but ne'er from their station descended. There, in the midst of its firms, re])oseil the Acadian village. Strongly built were the bouses, with fr.imes of oak and of chestnut, Such as the peas.ints of Noi'mandy bnilt in the reign (if the IIeiiri(>s. Thatched wia-e i\u'. rool's, with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting Over tho basement below iirotected and shaded the doorway. There in tho traiKiuil evenings of stniimcr, when brightly the snnsot Lighted the villag(^ street, and gilded th(> vanes on the cbimiieyH, Matrons and maidens sat iu snow-white c.'i|is and in kirtles Scarlet and blue and green, with distaH's spinning the golden Flax for the gossiping looms, Whose noi.sy shuttles within doora Miuj^led their aouiid with the whir of tho wheels and the aonga of the maidens. 110 R(Mte22. GRAND PRE. Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. Reverend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens, Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welc^ome. Then came the lal>orers lioiiie from tlie field, and serenely the sun sank Down to Ids rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry Softly the Angclus sounded, and over the roofs of the village Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending. Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — Dwelt in tlie love of God and of man. Alike were they free from Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. Neither locks had they to their doors, nor T)ars to tlicir windows ; But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance." The poet then describes *' the gentle Evangehne, the pride of the vil- lage." " Fair was slic to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers, Black were her eyes as the berry thut grows on tlie thorn by the wayside, Black, yet how softly they glcunied iHiieath the brown shiide of her tresses ! Sweet was her Ijreath as the lu'e.itli of kine tluit feed in the meadows. When in the harvest boat she bore to the reajjcrs at noontide Flagons of home-browed ale, ah ! fair in sooth was the maiden. Fairer was she when, on Sunday morn, wliile the bell from its turret Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the jiriest with his hyssop Sprinkl(,-s the congregation, and scatters blessings wynm them. Down the long street she passed, with lier cliai)let of Inads and her missal, Weai'ing li<;r Norman cap, and licr kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — • Brought^ in the olden time from France, and since, as an licirloom, Handed down from mother to child, thi'ough long generations. But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — Shone on her face and encircled her foiin, when, after confession, Homeward serenely she walked, with God-s benediction iijion her. When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." After a beautiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadians, and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of Grand Prd, and the weary exile of the villagers. " So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard, Waited the women. Tliey stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fi'esh from the forest. Then came the guard from the ships, and marching proudly among them Entered the sacred portal. AV'ith loud and dissonant clangor Eclioed the sound of tlieir brazen drums from ceiling and casement, — Echo(Hl a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal connnission. ' Ye are convened this day,' he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. Clement and kind has he been ; but how have you answered his kindness, Let your own hearts reply ! To my natiu-al make and my temper Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. Yet must I bow and oltey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of all kinds Forfeited l)e to tlie crown ; and that you yourselves from this province Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there Ever as faithful suVyects, a Ijappy and peaceable people ! Prisoners now I declare you ; for swch is his Majesty's pleasure.' GRAND PRE. Route '^2. Ill There disorder prevailed, and the tumult and stir of embarking. Busily plied the freighted boats ; aud in the confusion Wives were torn from their husbands, aud mothers, too late, saw their children Left on the land, extending their arms, with wildest entreaties. Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the hlood-red Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o"er the horizon Titan-like stretches its hiiudred hands upon mountain anil meadow, Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roots of the village, Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of flame were Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. Then as the wind seized the gleeds aud the burning thatch, and uplifting Whirled them aloft through the air, at once from a hundred house-tops ' Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame intermingled. Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr6, When on the filling tide the freighted vessels departed, Beiu-ing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, Exile without an end, aud without an example in story. Ear asuniH(itiii'<^M. liiKhy to ItoMMway, H'-i M. ; Waterford, 12 ; (IcMitrevllJe Ifj; Lako- Blde 17; Handy Oove, 20; hlttle klver, 25; i'etlto J'a^iHuge, {jO; Ji'ree Tort; WoBt Tort, 40. 'i'lio Btngo runs H. W. from Dighy, leaving tlie HcttlcmcntH of Marfthall- tovvn and ilrigliton on the 1., acroHH the Smelt River. Tlio llrnt hamlet reiiclied Im JinHniiuii/^ whence a mad croHweH to (iiiIIIvim-'h Covit on the lUiy nr(;c« *2 ; to Liveriiool, $8.50; to Sliolbarno, |4.50; to Yiineouta, ,'t|!(). liUuculmrfj; to MvtM'iuiol, $i\\ to Hliclbuvoe, filfjO; to Yar- nioiitli, |i4.r)0. Livcriiool t,o Slicllninit», .iji'i ; to YiirnioutU, itt^tl.fiO. Shollninio to Yai'iiumtli, $'2 M. lU'i'tlis iu'i« inilihl«(l iu thoso pvii-os, but, tlio iiu-als iwo extra. "The .Vlliuitii' coiiM. ol' Nova Scolia, tVom ('aj)ii Oaiiso to t'ape Salile, is pien'ofl witli iiuuiuitialilc small lia.vs, liarliors, and rivi'v.n. Tlio shoves are lined with roeks nod Ihoii.siUhls otislMiKh; ami altluMifi,li mi part ofMie country can pniperl.v lie con- siiliM-tul mouiitainoiis, and llieie ai<' lint, tew stccji hij^h <'lills, yel the a^^pt^(•t (if tho V'hiile, it nut rcinianlically unhlinie, i,s e.Kce('dinti,l> pict,nrc,s((ue ; and the Hcenery, in many places, is richly liea.nlirul.. The landscape which the head tif Mahone Biiv,la particular, prt\sents can scarcely be surpasHed," (M'ttiiKnon's Brilis/i Anii'ridi) " Thi< jn}i;L'e(l (intllne of this coast,, a.^ ,-een upon the map, rendnds us of the luiually Indi'utcd Alliinlic .shnrcs of Scandinavia; and lh<^ ciinrinlcr of l,he coast, as he saild nlonH; it — the rocky nnrfaci^ l,he sciudy herliajj;c, and tin* tMidler>s»d!«lk\tv< wti^w iWiwn^^ with gne>at vrwkiovn. and 150of h»>r shot struck th0 euwxvv, whiW tht> t\tv i>f the Kt»,waJ Bi»w«f;«, though K^ivid »jul h*^v>i-, was jxi^^u^ly iuoftwtiv**. Tht> s.hAttv'jwl l»vitou btH'i^xwo \\nm»n»g*v>Wt>. and whil«> i'» that c\>udi- tivxn was raktsl fkvm sttnu to stortt In tht* ^'twivi^'s hattevu\^, Oa\h> !*aW*? has K>n^ he*M\ divadtsl hv sr\>»«>t>n , and has oax»^cht \\p and de^itjvycd «M»n> \w>«s\^\s. 1» iv<* on<> of th«^ n\t\st dangvn^ns p\\M\gs i>t' that ivvn-K^vuvd l^v\iV,c« ftv»'\vhk>tx K^hnnnd BnvKe ivnld t\xul no Wttw \vv>»\ls than " that ha>M-\is{\j^\h ill- £»vvM>tNi b\-at '' lhvlv>\»\N the most dt\strnou\o >vj>\'Jv on this s.how was that ^vf th« oct^n st<>aiuship Jj!AH^\.ii''Mn, The steanior is now rwnnin^at to the N. W. «p the £m'-Hnffh>n Po*. «ape» between Cape Sable Island and the popnlous Bacoaj\> penhxsula. In about 12 M. Jt lies to otT Baxriug^ton, a thvivinst niaritiroe village of 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom aiv engtxged in the fisheries and the coasting tnxde. Clyde Kiver is about 9 M. M. K., and is a lunxbeinng distrSet ox*igi- nally settled by Welshmen. 10-13 M. ^, aw the Sabinim and Great Pubnieo Lakes. Barrington Avas settleil at an early date by the French, but they wei-e ci\-»wded tvtVin ITtJS by the axTival of 160 families ftwn Capo Cod, who bivught hither their honsehv^d etleots on their own vessels. After the Kevixlution, a colony of Loyalist* ft>>m Nantucket settleti her« with their whilom neighbors. The course is now to the S. W.» through a narrow and tide-swept pas- sage between Clement Point and X. K. Point, and thence out thivngh the Barrington NY est Passixge, passing the Baptist ohuxvh near Clax'ke's Har- bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Xewell Head. (It is to be noted that, under certjxin adverse conditions of wind and tide, the steamer does not call at Barrington, bxit rtnmds Cape Sable on the outside.) On the h is (7*y«"» 7. Sable, and the inlet of Shag Harbor is seen on the r. On Bon Portage Island (wlnxse oxnginal Fr«>ach name was £im Pota^) is a new lighthouse, to wai^n vessels firom the rng-ged shoivs on which the IVce^N^v was wi-ecked. The coxxrse soon changes towax\l the X. W'., and Seal Island, **the elbow of the Bay of Fimdy," is seen on the 1., thr out at sea, with the tower of its lighthoxxs© (fixed Avhite light, visible IS M., and ftxg-whistle) Iwuiing above its low shores. On this island the ooean-steamship d^HHihia >?as lost. The Blonde Rock is B\ M, S. by W. fi\>m the lighthouse, and marks the point whexv H. B, M. tVig^xte Blotide went to pieces, in 1TS:J. Her civw was res- cued fivra the island and was given liberty by the American privateers Livti^ and Scitmsmily which were pivwling abiuxt Cape Sable at the time of the wreck. NYhen the Seal Island lighthouse is just abeam, on the other side is seen Cockerwhit and the Mutton Islands; X. of Seal Island the \\xldy. Mud, and Roxind Islands are seen, lying well out at sea. The early Fxvnch maps (Chaxxbert's) gave these lonely islands the significant name of Le$ Fronx Ca^v Sahle "" c>up gvvs to the Is^e tVKt Cerwiomrtf*. a lt>a^uo distant, so call«>d m account of the infixiit* nxxmbw thojj^of thos* hirvls, with whois* istances. — Annapolis; Milford,14 M. ; Maitland,27; Northfield,30 ; Kempt, 85; Brookfield, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Ponhook), 50; Middlefield, 56; Liverpool, 70. Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's Eiver, which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At Milford (small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from this point it is possible to descend in canoes or flat-bottomed boats to the town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured at Milford this trip can be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shores, with hill-ranges in the distance; and flow through regions which are as yet but little vexed by the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant and not too coy ; though better fishing is found in proportion to the dis- tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- able this summer. Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form " the lake region of Nova Scotia. All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- tractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and fish it is in every way infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, and are dipped and speared by the Indians in large numbers." (Hal- lock.) " In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and intensely blue., their shores fringed with rock bowlders, and generally containing several islands, they do much to di- versify the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." (Capt. Hardy.) The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the Boot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few miles beyond is Northfield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 6* I 130 Rmte^. LIVERPOOL LAKES. shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a heautiful island-strewn sheet of water 4 M. long. The road now enters Broohfield, the centre of the new farming settle- ments of the North District of Queen's County. Several roads diverge hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool and Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced. 5-6 M. S. E. is the Malaga Lake, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands. The road passes on to Greenfield, a busy lumbering- village at the outlet of Port Medway Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted hy the other road, which runs S. from Brookfield through Caledonia Corner (small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down through the forest to the outlet of Ponhook Lake, '' the headquarters of the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River." This Lidian village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with every rod of the lake-district. From this point a canoe voyage of about 8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake Rossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. " A glorious view was unfolded as we left the run and entered the still water of the lake. The breeze fell rapidly with the sun and enabled us to steer towards the centre, from which alone the size of the lake could be appreciated, owing to the number of the islands. These were of every imaginable shape and size, — from the grizzly rock bearing a solitary stunted pine, shaggy with Usnea, to those of a mile in length, thickly wooded with maple, beech, and birches Here and there a bright spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a disembarkation ; and fre- quent sylvan scenes of an almost fairy-land character opened up as we coasted along the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, overgrown with water- lilies, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bosky groves of hemlocks.'- (Capt. Hardy.) At the foot of Lake Rossignol is a wide oak -opening, with a fine greensward under groves of white oaks. Near this point the Liverpool River flows out, passing several islets, and affording good trout-fishing. In and about this oak-opening was the chief village of the ancient Micmacs of this region ; and here are their nearly obUt- erated burying-grounds. The site is now a favorite resort for hunting and fishing parties. The name Ponhook means " the first lake in a chain " ; and these shores are one of the few districts of the vast domains of Miggumdhghee, or " Micmac Land," that remain in the possession of the aborigines. From Ponhook 12 lakes may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. From Lake Rossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the Segum-Sega Lakes, entered from a stream on the N. W. shore (several portages), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into Shelburne County. The Indian Gardens may also be visited thence, af- fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmacs of Ponhook are the best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these pleasant solitudes, and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Indian village is only about 15 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. Liverpool, see page 120. CHEZZETCOOK. Route 28. 131 28. Halifax to Tangier. The Royal mail-stage leaves Halifax at 6 a. m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Fri- day (returning the alternate days!, for the villages along the Atlantic shore to the E. The conveyance is not good, and the roads are sometimes in bad condition, but there is pretty coast-scenery along the route. Distances. — Hahfax ; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Innis's), le^-g M. ; Chezzet- cook Road (Ormon's), 18>^ ; Musquodoboit Harbor, 28>^ ; Lakeville ( Webber's) 40; Ship Harbor, 48 ; Tangier, 56 ; Sheet Harbor, 74 ; Beaver Harbor, 84. ' After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs E. through a lake-strewn coun- try, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little Salmon Eiver it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of Lawrencetown on the S. The mines and placer-washings at this point drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861 - 62, but they are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like expanse of Porter's Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same narne. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is Chezzetcook Harbor, witii its long shores lined with settlements of flie Acadian French, whereof Cozzens writes : — " But we are again in the Acadian forest ; let us enjoy the scenery. The road we are on is but a few miles from the sea-shore, but the ocean is hidden from view by the thick woods. As we ride along, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets that frequently break in upon the landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakes also along this road. Sometimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent ; some- times a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into view ; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes." Here " the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in the pictures of the most ultramarine painters. Here and there a green island or a fishing-boat rested upon the surface of the tranquil blue. For miles and miles the eye followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of the harbor, and the most delicate pencil could scarcely portray the exquisite line of creamy sand that skirted their edges and melted off in the clear margin of the water. Occasional little cottages nestle among these green banks, — not the Acadian houses of the poem, 'with thatched roofs and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, homely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-weathercocked The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight in the city of HaUfox, and as soon as the sun is up vanish like the dew. They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir balsam, to sell. These comprise their simple commerce." Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the long subsequent wars. After the British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many of the old famihes returned to their former homes, and Chezzetcook was re-occupied by its early settlers. They formed an agi'icultural community, and grew rapidly in prosperity and in numbers. There are about 250 families now resident about the bay, preserving the names and language and many of the primitive customs of the Acadians of the Basin of Minas. (See pages 108 and 113. ) The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and then turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Great Lake ( 1.) and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Musquodohuit Harbor is sooa reached, and its head is crossed. This is the harbor where Capt. Hardy made his pen-picture of this romantic coast : — " Nothing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of Nova Scotia, — their innumerable islands and heavily-wooded shores fringed with 132 Route 28. TANGIER. the golden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the patches of meadow, and neat little white shanties of the fishermen's clearings, .... the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning sunbeams, the perfect reflection of the islands and of the little fishing-schooners, the wreaths of blue smoke rising from their cabin stoves, and the roar of the distant rapids, where the river joins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful sounds of awakening hfe from the clearings." Near Musquodoboit are some valuable gold-mines, with two powerful quartz-crushing mills, and several moderately rich lodes of auriferous quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm of Jeddore Harbor, and then crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- habitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long tract of wilderness is now traversed, and Ship Harbor is reached. A few miles N. W. is the broad expanse of Ship Harbor Lake, reaching nearly to the Boar's Back Ridge, and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width of 2 - 4 M. To the N. are the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to which the Indians gave the onomatopoetic name of AhmagopakegeeJc, v^rhich signifies "tumbling over the rocks." The post-road now enters the once famous gold-bearing district of Tangier. These mines were opened in 1860, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- ing thousands of adventurers from all parts of the Atlantic coast. For miles the ground was honeycombed with pits and shafts, and the excited men worked with- out intermission. But the gold was not found in masses, and only patience and hard woi'k could extract a limited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shorc-waEhings were engaged in for some time, and a stray nugget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was shown in the Dublin Exposition. This district covers about 80 square miles, and has 12 lodes of auriferous quartz. The South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to grow richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, and their average yield is § 400 - 500 per miner each year. Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Spry Bay, and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor (Farnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. From this point a road follows the shore to the N. E. to Sherbrooke, about 50 M. distant, passing the obscure maritime hamlets of Beaver Harbor, Necum Tench, Ekum Sekum, Marie Joseph, and Liscomb Harbor. The back-country on all this route is yet desolate and unsettled. There are so many islands off the shore that this portion of the Atlantic is called the Bay of Islands (old French, Baie de Toules les Isles), although it is not embayed. Slierbrooke, see page 133. GUYSBOROUGH. Route 29. 133 29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. This district is reached by passing on the Intercolonial Railway (see Routes 16 and 17) from St. John or Halifax to New Glasgow, and thence taking the Royal mail-stage to Antigonish (see Route 32). From Antigonish a stage departs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday mornings, running 40 M. S. (fare, $2) to Sherbrooke (two inns). This is a village on the 1. bank of the St. Mary's Eiver, the largest river in Nova Scotia, and is at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- rives considerable interest from the fact that in the vicinity is one of the broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the Province. Goldenville is 3 M. from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. This district co^^ers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, having yielded as high as $2,000 per man per year, or about three times the average production of the best of the Australian mines. The aurifer- ous lodes are operated at jjioldenville only, where there are several quartz- crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1861, and on the first day over $ 500 Avorth of gold was found here. Systematic mining operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the precious metal has since been very satisfactory. The Wine-Harbor Gold-field is several miles S. E. of Sherbrooke, near the mouth of the St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton is small, yet the breadth and continuity of the lodes renders the work easy and certain. This district is seamed with abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 700 ft. long. The first discovery of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the sea-shore, and the quartz lodes on the N. B. side of the harbor were soon opened Of later years the Wine-Harbor district has greatly declined in popularity and productiveness. The Storviont Gold-fields are 33 M. N. E.'of Sherbrooke, and are most easily reached by direct conveyance from Antigonish. Gold was discovered here by the Indians in 1861, and occurs in thick layers of quartz. Owing to its remoteness, this region has remained undeveloped, and its total yield in 1869 was but 227 ounces ($4,540). The chief village in the district is at the head of Country Harbor, a pic- turesque arm of the sea, 8 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. There are fine opportunities for shooting and fishing among the adjacent bays and highlands. All this shore was settled in 1783 - 4 by Loyalists from North and South Carohna. Guysborough and Cape Canso. Guysborough {Grant's Hotel) is reached by daily mail-stages from Heatherton, on the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway. After leaving the valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, and descends through the Intervale Settlement and Manchester to Guys- borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Ba}'. It has about 1,700 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton). It is engaged in shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. The noble anchorage of Milford Haven lies between the town and the bay. 134 Route 30. SABLE ISLAND. A strong post was established at Chedabucto, on the site of Guysborough, inl636-, by M. Denys, who had spacious warehouses and a strong fort here, together with 120 men. Here he received and supported the exiled children of D'Aulnay Char- nisay ; and here also he was vainly besieged for several days by La Giraudiere and 100 men from Canso- In 1690 the works were held by De Montorgueuil, and vrere bravely defended against the attacks of the New-England army under Sir William Phipps. Finally, when the buildings of the fort were all in flames about him, the gallant frenchman surrendered, and was sent to Placentia with his soldiers. The ruins of the ancient fort are now to be traced near the mouth of the harbor. A bold ridge runs 31 M. E. from Guysborough along the S. shore of Ched- abucto Bay to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Nova Scotia. A road folio v\rs the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cape Canso, which has over 1,000 inhabitants and enjoys a profitable little export trade. Several islands lie off this extreme point of Nova Scotia, one of which bears two powerful white lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor is marked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. « Wliite Haven is on the S. side of the great peninsula of Wilmot, 30 M. from Guysborough, and is a small fishing settlement situated on one of the finest bays on the American coast. It was originally intended to have the Intercolonial Railway terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamships. The harbor is easy of access, of capacious breadth, and free from ice in winter. Its E. point is White Head, usually the first land seen by vessels crossing from Europe in this upper lati- tude, on which is a fixed white light. Just W. of ^V'hite Haven is the fishermen's hamlet of Molasses Harbor, near the broad bight of Tor Bay. 30. Sable Island. The Editor inserts the following sketch of this remotest outpost of the Maritime Provinces, hoping that its quaint character may make amends for its uselessness to the summer tourist. It may also be of service to voyagers on these coasts who should chance to be cast away on the island, since no one likes to be landed suddenly in a strange country without having some previous knowledge of the reception he may get. A regular line of communication has recently been established between Sable Island and Halifax. The boats run once a year, and are chartered by the Canadian government to carry provisions and stores to the lighthouse people and patrols, and to bring back the persons who may have been wrecked there during the pre- vious year. Sable Island is about 90 M. S. E. of Cape Canso. It is a barren ex- panse of sand, without trees or thickets, and is constantly swept by storms, under whose powerful pressure the whole aspect of the land changes, by the shifting of the low dunes. The only products of this arid shore are cranberries, immense quantities of which are found on the lowlands. " Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about 10 M. distance, looking seaward, half a dozen low dark hummocks on the horizon. As he ap- proaches, they gradually resolve themselves into hills fringed by breakers, and by and by the white sea-beach with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part naked, part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a house and a barn dot the western extremitj^ — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- itor does is to mount the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent it around, nowhere much above 1 M. wide, 26 M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shallow lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it all lies spread like a map at his feet, — grassy SABLE ISLAND. Route 30. 135 hill and sandy valley fading away into the distance. On the foreground the outpost men galloping their rough ponies into headquarters , recalled by the flag flying over his head ; the West-end house of refuge, with bread and matches, firewood and kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters with flag-staff on the adjoin- ing hill. Every sandy peak or grassy knoll with a dead man's name or old ship's tradition, — Baker's Hill,Trott's Cove, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens, — tra- ditionary spot where the poor convicts expiated their social crimes, — the little burial-grotind nestling in the long grass of a high hill, and consecrated to the re- pose of many a sea-tossed limb ; and 2-3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side house and barn, and staff and boats lying on the lake beside the door. 9 M. farther down, by the aid of a glass, he may view the flag-stafl'at the foot of the lake, and 5 M. farther the East-end lookout, with its staff and watch-house. Herds of wild ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes are heading their young broods on the mirror-like ponds. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands, or piled like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glasgow''s bow, the Maskonemet''s stern, the East Boston^s hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guide, are spotting the sands, each with its tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and toil endured. The whole picture is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea- ribbed sand." "Mounted upon* his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look sea- ward, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash, — now fords the shallow lake, looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned ; and coming on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his pony's hoof with a reck- less smash goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly puts his pony to her mettle to escape the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless numbers, dent his weather-beaten tarpaulin with their sharp bills, and snap his pony's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's flocks, resting their wave -tossed Mmbs, — great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Da. J. B. Gilpin. ) For over a century Sable Island has been famous for its wild horses. They num- ber perhaps 400, and are divided into gangs which are under the leadership of the old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, shaggy necks, sloping quarters, paddling gait, and chestnut or piebald colors Once a year the droves are all herded by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 30 of the best are taken out to be sent to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an object of terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here ; and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean steamship Georgia and the French frigate U Africaine. In the year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert was returning from Newfoundland (of which he had taken possession in the name of the EngUsh Crown), his little fleet became entangled among the shoals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying bars the ship Delight struck heavily and dashed her stern and quarters to pieces. The officers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a pinnace for many days, were finally rescued. The other vessels, the Squirrel and the Golden Hind, bore off to sea and set their course for England. But when off the Azores the Squirrel was sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), and upon her deck was seen Sir Humphrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept past the Golden Hind, the brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter : " Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." Aboutmidnight the Squirrel plunged heavily forward into the trough of the sea, and went down with all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of Jesus Christ, .... one of the noblest and best of men in an age of great men." In 1508 a futile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by " Le Sieur Baron de Leri et de St. Just, Vic^mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here that afterwards saved many lives. In the year 1598 the Marquis de la Roche was sent by Henri IV. to America, car- rying 200 convicts from the French prisons. He determined to found a settlement 136 Route 31. NEW GLASGOW. on Sable Island, and left 40 of his men there to commence the -work. Soon after, De la Roche was forced by stress of storm to return to France, abandoning these unfortunate colonists. VVithout food, clothing, or wood, they suffered intensely, until partial relief was brought by the wrecking of a French ship on the island. For seven years they dwelt in huts built of wrecked timber, dressed in seal-skins, and living on fish. Then King Henri IV. sent out a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 survivors, gaunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back to France, where they were pardoned and rewarded. An attempt was made about the middle of the 16th century to colonize Cape Bre- ton in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was transporting the Spaniards and their property was dashed to pieces on Sable Island. 31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou. By the Pictou Branch Railway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Railway at Truro. Stations. — 'S'^ John to Pictou. St. John to Truro, 215 M. ; Yalley, 219; Union, 224; Riversdale, 228; West River, 23G ; Glengarry, 243; Hopewell, 260; Stellarton, 255; New Glasgow, 258 ; Pictou Landing, 266 ; Steamboat AV'harf, 267. Stations- — Halifax to Pictou. Halifax to Truro, 61 M. ; Valley, 65 ; Union, 70; Riversdale, 74 ; West River, 82 ; Glengarry, 89 ; Hopewell, 96; Stellarton, 101 ; New Glasgow, 104 ; Pictou Landing, 112 ; Steamboat Wharf, 113. St. John to Truro, see Eoutes 16 and 17. Halifax to Truro, see Eoute 17 (reversed). The train runs E. from Truro, and soon after leaving the environs, enters a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- ing foot-hills of the Cobequid Eange, and the valley of the Salmon Kiver is followed hj several insignificant forest stations. Rlvtrsdcde is surrounded by a pleasant diversity of hill-scenery, and has a spool-factory and a con- siderable lumber trade. 14 M. to the N. is the thriving Scottish settlement oi Earltown. Beyond West Eiver the train reaches Glengarry, which is the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg and Gairloch. Hopewell (Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories ; and a short dis- tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the East Eiver. Stellarton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- trolled (for the most part) by the General Mining Association, of London. There is a populous village here, most of whose inhabitants are connected •with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, and are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and would doubtless return a great revenue in case of the removal of the re- strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 1864 over 200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. New Glasgow (three inns) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, largely en- gaged in shipbuilding and having other manufactures, including foundries and tanneries. It is favorably situated on the East River, and has large coal-mines in the vicinity. Here are the main offices and W. terminus of the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway, running 75 M. E. to the Strait of Canso. The train now descends by the East River to Fisher's Grant, opposite the town of Pictou, to which the passengers are conveyed by terry. PICTOU. RoiLteSl. 137 Pictou (Eureka / Waverley ; Revere, etc.) is a flourishing town on the Gulf shore, with 3,500 inhabitants, six churches, a masonic hall, two weekly papers, the public buildings of Pictou County, three banks, a handsome Y. M. C. A. building, and the Pictou Academy, founded on the plan of a Scottish University in 1818, and now occupying a large and handsome new building, with museum, library, convocation hall, etc. Tiie harbor is the finest on the S. shore of the Gulf, and can accommodate ships of any burden, having a depth of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies a commanding position on a hillside over a small cove on the N. side of the harbor; and nearh^ opposite, the basin is divided into three arms, into which flow the East, Middle, and West Rivers, on which are the ship- ping wharves of the Albion, Intercolonial, Acadia, and Vale Coal Com- panies, whence immense quantities of coal are exported. There is very pleasant scenery in the vicinity of Pictou, and good sea-bathing on the adjacent beaches. Pictou has a large coasting trade; is engaged in shipbuilding; and has a marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-mills, several saw and grist mills, a foundry, and three or four tanneries. But the chief business is connected with the adjacent mines and the exportation of coal, and with the large freestone quarries in the vicinity. Stages leave Pictou several times weekly, for River John, Tatamagouche, Wallace, Pugwash, and Amherst (see page 81). Steamships leave (opposite) Pictou forChar- lotretown, Summerside, and Shediac, on IVIonda}^ Wednesday, and Friday, on the arrival of the Halifax train (see Route 44) ; also for the Gulf ports and Quebec, every Tuesday at 7 A. m. , and alternate Fridays at 1 p. m. (see Route 63) ; also for Port Hood and the Magdalen Islands (see Route 49) ; and for Hawkesbury and the Strait of Canso. After the divine Glooscap (see page 106) had left Newfoundland, where he conferred upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when they needed his aid, he landed at Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning " Bubbling," or "' Gas-exploding," and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he created the tortoise tribe, in this wise : Great festivals and games were made in his honor by the Indians of Pictook,but he chose to dwell with a homely, lazy, and despised old bachelor named Mikchickh, whom, after clothing in his own robe and giving him victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and king of all the tortoises, smoking him till his coat became brown and as hard as bone, and then re- ducing his size by a rude surgical operation. The site of Pictou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, and in 1763 the French made futile preparations to found a colony here. In 1765, 200,000 acres of land in this vicinity were granted to a company in Philadelphia, whence bands of settlers came in 1767 - 71. Meantime the site of the town had been given to an army officer, who in turn sold it for a horse and saddle. The Pennsyl- vanians were disheartened at the severity of the climate and the infertility of the soil, and no progress was made in the new colony until 1773^ when the ship Hector arrived with ISO persons from the Scottish Highlands. They were brought over by the Philadelphia company, but when they found that the shore lands were all taken , they refused to settle on the company^s territory, and hence the agent cut off their supply of provisions. They subsisted on fish and venison, with a little flovir from Truro, until the next spring, when they sent a ship-load of pine-timber to Britain, and planted wheat and potatoes. Soon afterwards they were joined by 15 destitute families from Dumfriesshire ; and at the close of the Revolutionary War many disbanded soldiers settled here with their families. In 1786 the Rev. James McGregor came to Pictou and made a home, and as he was a powerful preacher in 138 Route 32. ANTIGONISH. the Gaelic language, many Highlanders from the other parts of the Province moved here, and new immigrations arrived from Scotland. In 1788 the town was com- menced on its present site by Deacon Patterson, and in 1792 it was made a shire=- town. Great quantities of lumber were exported to Britain between 1805 and 1820, during the period of European convulsion, when the Baltic ports were closed, and while the British navy was the main hope of the nation. The place was captured in 1777 by an American privateer. Coal was discovered here in 1798, but the exporta- tion was small until 1827, when the General Mining Association of London began operations. J. W. Dawson, LL. D. , F. R. S., was born at Pictou in 1820, and graduated at the University of Edinburgh in 1840. He studied and travelled with Sir Charles Lyell, and has become one of the leaders among the Christian scientists. His greatest work was the " Acadian Geology." For the past 20 years he has been Principal of the McGill College, at Montreal. 32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton. By the Halifax and Cape Breton Railway. This comparatively new route leaves the Intercolonial Railway (Pictou Branch) at New Glasgow (see page 136), 104 M. from Halifax, and 258 M. from St. John, and runs down to the Strait of Canso, where it connects with a steam ferry-boat to Cape Breton, and with steamboats to various ports on the island. A trip eastward by this route, and a voyage on the Bras d'Or, gives a deeply interesting excursion. Stations. — New Glasgow to Glenfalloch, 5J M. ; Merigomish, 9| ; French River, 13i; Piedmont, 18 ; Avondale, 22 ; Barney's River, 23^; Marshy Hope, 26 ; James River, 30^ ; Brierly Brook, 34| ; Antigonish, 40 ; South River, 45 ; Taylor's Road, 47; Pomquet, 50; Heatherton, 52i ; Afton, 56 ; Tracadie, 60; Giroirs, 61^ ; Little Tracadie, 65 ; Harbor au Bouche, 69 ; Cape Porcupine, 69; Strait of Canso, 74 ; Wylde's Cove, 75. Express-trains run daily, leaving New Glasgow after the arrival of the train from Halifax. On reaching the open cotintn^ beyond New Glasgow, the road passes on for several miles through an unintei'esting region of small farms and recent clearings. At the crossing of the Sutherland River, a road diverges to the N. E., leading to Merigomish, a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with a safe and well-sheltered harbor. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, the latter of which are worked b\' the Merigomish Coal Mining Company, with a capital of $ 400,000. Beyond the hamlet at the crossing of French River, — " which may have seen better days, and will probably see. worse," — the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to the N. E. Thence it descends through a sufficiently dreary country to the relay-house at Marshy Hope. " The sun has set when we come thundering down into the pretty Catholic village of Aiitigonisli, the most home-like place we have seen on the island- The twin stone towers of the unfinished cathedral loom up large in the fading light, and the bishop's palace on the hill, the home of the Bishop of Arichat, appears to be an im- posing white barn with many staring windows People were loitering in the street; the young beaux going up and down with the belles, after the leisurely manner in youth and summer. Perhaps they were students from St. Xavier Col- ANTIGONISH. Route 32. 139 lege, or visiting gallants from Guysborough. They look into the post-office and the fancy store. They stroll and take their little provincial pleasure, and make love, for all we can see, as if Antigonish were a part of the world. How they must look down on Marshy Hope and Addington Forks and Tracadie ! What a charming place to live in is this 1 '■ (Baddeck.) Antigonish 1 (two good inns), the capital of the county of the same name, is situated at the head of a long and shoal harbor, near St, George's Bay. Some shipbuilding is done here, and many cargoes of cattle and butter are sent hence to Newfoundland. On the E. shore of the harbor are valuable deposits of gypsum, which are sent away on coasting- vessels. The inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country are of Scottish descent, and their unwavering industry has made Antigonish a prosperous and pleasant town. The College of St. Francis Xavier is the Diocesan Seminary of the Franco-Scottish Diocese of Arichat, and is the residence of the Bishop. It is a Catholic institution, and has six teachers. The Cathedral of St. Ninian was begun in 1867, and was consecrated Sep- tember 13, 1874, by a Pontifical High Mass, at which 7 bishops and 30 priests assisted. It is in the Roman Basilica style, 170 by 70 ft. in area, and is built of blue limestone and brick. On the facade, between the tall square towers, is the Gaehc inscription, Tighe Dhe ("the House of God"). The arched roof is supported by 14 Corinthian columns, and the interior has numerous windows of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rep- resents Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Joseph. There is a large organ, and also a chime of bells named in honor of St. Joseph and the Scottish saints, Ninian, Columba, and Margaret, Queen of Scotland. This splen- did structure is not too large for the numerous congregation every Sunday from the village and surrounding country, mostly Highland-Scotch, who frequently hear sermons in their own Gaelic tongue from the Cathe- dral pulpit. A few yards from the Cathedral there is a neat three- story building recently erected for a Ladies^ Academy, to be conducted by the Montreal Sisters of the Congregation. The other denominations having churches in Antigonish are the Presbyterians, the Anglicans, and the Baptists.-. The Presbyterian Church, on Main Street, is a handsome structure with a tall spire. The village has two branch banks and two weekly newspapers, — The Aurora, the organ of the Bishop of Arichat, and The Casket. The county has a population of 18,100, devoted chiefly to agricultural pursuits. Its capital is a pretty village with pleasant drives in the vicinity. Nearly all the people of the county do their shop- ping in the village, and hence the numerous stores along its main street, some of them large brick buildings. The harbor is ill-suited for shipping, but the railway now supplies the deficiency. 1 Antigonish, — accent on the last syllable. It is an Indian word, meaning "the River of Fish." 140 Route S2. TEACADIE. Stages run daily from Antigonish S. to Sherbrooke by Lochaber and College Lake. N. \V. of the Tillage are the bold and picturesque highlands long known as the Antigonisli Mts., projecting from the liae of the coast about 15 M. N. into the Gulf. They are, in some places, 1,000 ft. high, and have a strong and -well- marked mountainous character. Semi-weekly stages run N. from Antigonish to Jforristoi(7?i and Gdor^eyiWe, respectively 10 and 18 M. distant. 8-10 M. N. of the latter is the bold promontory of Cape St. George, on which, 400 ft. above the sea, is a powerful revolving white light, which is visible for 25 M. atFea. From this point a road runs S. \V. to Midujiiatit Cove, which is also acces,<-ible by a ro- mantic road through the hills from Antigonish. This is a small seaside hamlet, which derives its name from the fact that H. B. M. frigate Ilalignant was once caught in these narrow waters during a heavy storm , and was run ashore here in order to avoid being dashed to pieces on the iron-bound coast beyond. 4-5 M. beyond the Cove is Arisaisf, a romantically situated settlement of Scottish Catholics, who named their new home in memory of Arisaig, in the Western Highlands. It has a long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only harbor and shelter against east-winds between Antigonish and Merigomish. The first important station between Antigonish and the Strait is Heatherton, a Franco-Scotch district of 2,000 inhabitants. A dail}' stage connects the railway at this station with Guysborour/h, a town on the Atlantic coast, about 20 M. S. of Heatlierton, and the capital of the county of Guysborough (see page 133). Tracaclie is in a French district of 1,180 inhabitants. There is a monastery here, pertaining to the aus- tere order of the Trappists. Most of the monks, between 40 and 50 in num- ber, are from Belgium. They are excellent farmers, and have their land thoroughly cultivated. There is also a Convent of Sisters of Charity in the vicinity. The people of Tracadie, like all the 41,219 French inhab- itants of Nova Scotia, belong to the old Acadian race, whose sad and romantic history is alluded to on pages 108 and 113. "And now we passed through another French settlement, Tracadie, and again the Nor- man kirtle and petticoat of the pastoral, black-eyed Evangeline appear, and then pass like a day-dream." (Cozzens.) Harbor au Bouche is a French district of 2,140 inhabitants. The village is out of sight of the station, on St. George's Bay, and has two churches and two inns. Beyond this point the line soon reaches its terminus, on the Strait of Canso, Avhere passengers for Cape Breton take steamers. CAPE beeto:n". The island of Cape Breton is about 100 M. long by 80 M. wide, and has an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and swamps. The S. part is low and generally level, but the N. portion is very irregular, and leads off into unexplored highlands. The chief natural peculiarities of the island are the Sydney coal-iields, which cover 250 square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d'Or, a great lake of salt water, ramifying through the centre of the island, and communicating with the sea by narrow channels. The exterior coast line is 275 M. long, and is provided with good harbors on the E. and S. shores. ^ The chief exports of Cape Breton are coal and fish, to the United States; timber, to England; and farm-produce and live-stock to Newfoundland. The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, and the naval power holding these shores could control or crush the com- merce of the Gulf The upland soils are of good quality, and produce valuable crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller vegetables. The Editor trusts that the following extract from Brown's " History of the Island of Cape Breton" (London: 1869) will be of interest to' the tourist : " The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may challenge comparison with those of any country within the temperate regions of the world. During all that time there are perhaps not more than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern coast, between the Gut of Canso and Scatari. Bright sunny days„ with balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshing sea-breezes! Of rain there is seldom enough; the growing crops more often suffer from too little than too much," "To the tourist that loves nature, and who, for the manifold beauties by hill and shore, by Avoods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of personal comfort, I would commend Cape Breton. Your fashionable, whose main object is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay' and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, had better content himself with reading of this island." (Noble. ) The name of the island is derived from that of its E. cape, which was given in honor of its discovery by Breton mariners. In 1713 the French authorities bestowed upon it the new name of VIsle Royale, during the 142 Route 33. THE STRAIT OF CANSO. reign of Louis XIV. At this time, after the cession of Acadia to the Brit- ish Crown, many of its inhabitants emigrated to Cape Breton ; and in August, 1714, the fortress of Louisbourg was founded. Pnring the next half-century occurred the terrible Avars between France and Great Britain, whose chief incidents were the sieges of Loiiisbourg and the final demoli- tion of that redoubtable fortress. In 1765 this island was annexed to the Province of Nova Scotia. In 1784 it was erected into a separate Province, and continued as such lantil 1S20, when it was reannexed to Nova Scotia. In 1S15 Cape Breton had about 10,000 inhabitants, but in 1S71 its popula- tion amounted to 75,503, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- tish Highlands. 33. The Strait of Canso. The Gut of Canso, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of Canso, is a picturesque passage which comiects the Atlantic Ocean with the Gulf of St, Lawrence, and separates the island of Cape Breton from the shores of Nova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous, covered with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white ham- lets lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of commerce seems worthy of its poetic appellation of " The Golden Gate of the St. Lawrence Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this channel every year than through any other in the world except the Strait of Gib- raltar. It is not only the shortest passage between the Atlantic and the Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in case of contrary winds and bad weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and there are sev- eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. The stream of the tide usually sets from the S., and runs in great swirling eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described by Dawson as " a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of the drift period," and portions of its shores are of the carboniferous epoch. The Strait of Canso is traversed by several thousand sailing-vessels every year, and also by the lai-ge steamers of the Boston and Colonial Steamship Company. " So -with renewed anticipations we ride on toward the strait ' of xmrivalled beauty,' that travellers say ' surpasses anything in America.' And, indeed, Canseau can have my feeble testimony in confirmation. It is a grand marine highway, hav- ing steep hills on the Cape Breton Island side, and lofty mountains on the other shore ; a full, broad, mile-wide space between them ; and reaching, from end to end, fifteen miles, from the Atlantic to the Gulf of St. Lawrence." (Cozzess.) Vessels from the S., bound for the Strait of Canso, first approach the Nova-Scotian shores near Cape Canso (see page 134), Avhose lights and islands are rounded, and the course lies between N. W. and W. N. W. towards Eddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry Island will be heard giving out it^Botes of warning, sounding for 8 seconds in each minute, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 15 M. in calm POKT HASTINGS. Route 33. 143 weather, and 5 - 8 M. in stormy weather and against the wind. On the I. is Chedabucto Bay, stretching in to Guysborough, lined along its S. shore by hills 3 - 700 ft. high ; and on the r. the Isle Madame is soon approached. 28-30 M. beyond Cape Canso the vessel passes Eddy Point, on which are two fixed white lights (visible 8 M.). On the starboard beam is Janvria Island, beyond which is the broad estuary of Habitants Bay. On the Cape-Breton shore is the hamlet of Bear Point, and on the 1. are Melford Creek (with its church), Steep Creek, and Pirate's Cove. The hamlets of Port Mulgrave and Port Hawkesbury are now seen, nearly opposite each other, and half-way up the strait. Port Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 inhabitants, on the Nova-Scotia side of the strait. It is engaged in the fisheries, and has a harbor which remains open all the year round. Gold-bearing quartz is found in the vicinity; and bold hills tower above the shore for a long dis- tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this point and Port Hawkesbury, li M. distant, in connection with the Halifax and Cape-Breton liaihvay, running down from New Glasgow, througii Antigonish (see page 138). Port Hawkesbury {Ilwwkt&bury Hottl, comfoi-table; Acadia Hotel) is a village of about 900 inhabitants, on the Cape-Breton side of the strait. It is situated on Ship Harbor, a snug haven for vessels of 20-ft. draught, marked by a fixed red light on Tupper Point. This is the best harbor on the strait, and has very good holding-ground. The village is of a scat- tered appearance, and has four small churches. There are several wharves here, which are visited by the Boston and Halifax steamers, and other lines. Stages run hence to Sydney, Arichat, and West Bay, on the Bras d'Or; and a railway has been surveyed to the latter point. The steam- ships that ply between Boston and Prince Edward Island weekly, call at Port Hawkesbury. i Port Hastings (more generally known as Plaster Cove) is about 3 M. j above Port Hawkesbury, on the Cape-Breton shore, and is built on the \ bluffs over a small harbor in which is a Government wharf. From this / point the Cape-Breton mails are distributed through the island by means of the stage-lines. The village is much smaller than Port Hawkesbury, and has a lucrative country-trade, besides a large exportation of fish and cat- tle to Newfoundland and the United States. It derives its chief interest from being the point where the Atlantic-Cable Company transfers its mes- sages, received from all parts of Europe and delivered under the sea, to the Western Union Telegraph Company, by Avhich the tidings are sent away through the Dominion and the United States, The telegraph-office is in a small building near the strait. The hotel at this village has been justly execrated in several books of travel, but occupies a noble situation, overlooking, from a high bluff, the Strait of Canso for several miles to I the S. E. Near this building is the consulate of the United States, over I which floats the flag of the Republic. 144 Route 33. CANSO. Nearly opposite Port Hastings is the bold and shaggy headland of Cape Porcupine, attaining a height of 640 ft., and contracting the strait to its narrowest part. The stream now widens slowly, with 16-20 fathoms of water, and at its N. entrance (W. side) the steamer passes a lighthouse, which sustains a powerful fixed white light, 110 ft. above the water, and visible from Cape St. George to Port Hood. Canso was in the earlier days called Campseau, or Canseau, and the word is derived from the Indian Camsoke, which signifies " facing the frowning cliffs." It is also claimed that the name is derived from the Spanish word Ganso, signifying ''goose," in allusion to the great flocks of wild geese sometimes seen here. Here the Micmac traditions locate the marvellous transit of the divine Glooscap (see page 106), who was stopped by these deep waters while on his way to attack a mighty wiz- ard in Newfoundland. He sunmioned from the sea a whale, who tore him across the strait, like a new Ariou, and landed him on the Breton shores. For many years the Strait of Canso was called the Passage de Fronsac, on all the old French maps and charts, in honor of the Sieur de Fronsac, the able and enter- prising Governor of Cape Breton ; and in 1518, over a century before Plymouth was founded, it was visited by the Baron de Lery, who designed forming a settlement on these shores, and left a considerable number of swine and cattle here. Savalette frequented this vicinity, for the purposes of fishing, from the year 1563; and in 1604 Do Monts found here four Basque ships (from St. Jean do Luz) trading with the Indians. Three years later a Dutch vessel entered Canso, and excited the terri- ble hostility of tlie Indians by rifling the graves of their dead in order to strip off the beaver-skins in which the corpses were wrapped Poutgrave cruised about these waters for a long time, protecting the monopolized fur- trade. A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established near Cape Canso, at the harbor of Canso. In 1G88 the Canso station and the sedentary fishery were plundered by an expedition from Boston, consisting of a crew of West-Indian pri- vateersmen. They entered these waters in a 10-gun vessel called a barcalonga, and carried away a French ship from the harbor. After the conquest of Acadia, the New-England fishermen occupied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwellings and •warehouses. In 1720 the settlements were attacked at night by powerful Indian bands, and completely plundered, though most of the fishermen escaped to their vessels. Tliey loaded several French vessels with the proceeds of the raid, and then retired to the forest. In 1722 the Massachusetts fishing-vessels were captured here bj the Indians, and were followed by armed vessels of that Province, who retook them after a naval battle. H. M. S. Scjiiirrel seized some illegal French traders here in 1718 ; and in 1724 a prize-vessel -was boarded by the savages in the Gut of Canso, and all its crew were killed or captured. During the subsequent peace New England had 1,500 - 2,000 men here in the fisheries, and in 17o3, 46,000 quintals of dry fish were exported hence. When the Mar-clouds were lowering, in 1737, the British had 100 soldiers in garrison here, and II. M. S. ELtham was kept in the Strait as a guai'd- Rhip. In 1744 M. Duvivier attacked Canso at the head of 670 men, French Aca- dians and Micmacs, and soon captured and destroyed it. In 1745 Peppered reached Canso with 8 regiments of Massachusetts troops and New-IIampshire and Connecti- cut regiments, and here he remained for some weeks, drilling his men and erecting fortifications. At a later day Conmiodore Warren arrived here with the British West-Indian fleet, the Superb^ 60, Lauiiceston, 40, Mermaid, 40, Eltliam, and other ships. The British war-vessel Little Jack, 6 guns, was cruising about the Strait of Canso in 1781, when she met two Marblehead privateers. Secuiing a favorable posiuon near Petit de Grat, a shore-battery was formed, and the cutter was anchored with springs on her cable. After a sharp action, one of the privateers was crippled and forced to Burrender, and the o'Jier made haste to escape. The Americans were paroled at Petit de Grat, and the vessel was taken to Quebec. After the close of the American Ptcvolution, the S. end of the Strait of Canso was occupied by a colony of Loyalists from Florida, who suflercd terribly from the com- parative inclemency of the climate. The present inhabitants of these shores are mostly of Scottish descent, a hardy and intrepid people. So late as the year 1787 there was not one settler on the Bret»n side of the strait, and the immigration has mostly occurred during the present century. ARICHAT. Route S4. 145 34. Arichat and Isle Madame. A mail-stage runs daily from Port Hawkesbiuy to Arichat, 30 M. S. E., passing near the sea-shore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- itants, and approaching the Scottish village of Grand Anse. At the French fishing-settlement of Grand Digue, the passenger is ferried across the Lennox Passage, a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle ]\Iadame from the Breton shores. Steamers run from Halifax to Arichat. Isle Madame is 16 M. in length from E. to W., and about 5 M. in breadth. Its surface is very irregular, though of but moderate elevation, 4nd the central part is occupied by a small lake. It was settled over a ctjntury ago, by exiles from Acadia, whose descendants now occupy the la.lid, and are pious Catholics and daring seamen. Ijii 1760 the Trench explorer of Isle Madame found 113 inhabitants here, " who liv/e as they can," on a sterile soil, and barely maintaiuect by some petty fisheries. n/e closes his account by saying, " \Ve quitted this country with no regret, except tlKat we must leave there so many miserable people." I Arichat (two indifferent inns) is the capital of Richmond County, and -Is the most important fishing-station between Halifax and St, John's, New- joundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of Acadian- ^ French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries (■ of which this port is the centre are connected with the great establish- 1 pents on the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel), like those of Cheti- ( pamp, Gasp^, and Paspebiac. There is also an American firm located 1 liere, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the £ jteep N. shore of a spacious and secure harbor, which is sheltered by t perseyman Island, and is "capable of containing any number of the largest ■fihips." The spacious Catholic church in the W. part of the town is pro- vided with a chime of bells, and is the seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of Arichat, whose diocese includes Cape Breton and the E. counties of Nova Scotia. It is claimed that "The Sisters of the Congregation of Notre Dame, of Montreal, have a grand and flourishing academy for female edu- cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat." E. of the cathedral is the Richmond County Court-House, surmounted by a cupola. There are also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. On the S. W. is seen the lighthouse, bearing a fixed red light, which guides mari- ners through the Crid Passage and into the harbor. To the W. is the settlement of Little Arichat, extending along the coast for several miles, and having undeveloped coal deposits. There are over 1,600 inhabitants in this town, all of whom are French. 3-4 M. E. of Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hamlet of Petit de Grat, with neai'ly 2,000 inhabitants; and D'Escousse is another place of similar pursuits, on the other side of the Bay of Rocks. 7 J 146 Route 35. ST. PETER'S. 35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, C. B. By the way of the land, through St. Peter^s. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hawkesbury every morning, some time after the arrival of the Antigonish stage, and runs E. and N. E. to Sydney. Fare* f 5. This is one of the most arduous routes by -which Sydney can be approached, and leads through a thinly settled and uninteresting country until St. Peter's is reached. Beyond that point there is a series of attractive views of the Great Bras d'Or and St. Andrew's Channel, continuing almost to Sydney. Distances. — (Port Hastings to Port Hawkesbury, 4-5 M.) Port Hawkesbury to Grand Anse, 21 M. ; St. Peter's, 35 ; Red Island, 52; Irish Cove, 64; Sydney, There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the journey. After leaving Port Hawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing E. to the River Inhabitants. Crossing that stream where it begins to nar- row, the road continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional views, to the r., of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noop^ it reaches the narrow Haulover Isthmus, which separates St. Peter's Bay^, on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d' Or side. At this point is situated the village of St. Peter's (two inns), a Scottish settlement near the bay. The canal which has been constructed here to open com4 munication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is ^ M. long, 26 ftj wide, and 13 ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benefit to the Bras d'Or villages. It has been finished within a few years, and pertains to the Government, which takes a small toll from the vessels passing through.. S. E. of St. Peter's are the blufl; heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W.i are the uninhabited highlands which are called on the maps the Sporting Mts. St. Peter's was founded by M. Denys, about the year 1636, to command the lower end of the Bras d'Or, as his post at St. Anne's commanded the upper end. He built a portage-road here, opened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several I cannon. The Indians residing on the most remote arms of the Bras d'Or were thus enabled to visit and carry their furs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Denys ) himself, together with the fort, the ship, and all other property here, was captured I soon after by a naval force sent out by M. le Borgne. But in 1656 Denys retook his ' posts, guarded by a charter from King Louis. A few years later St. Peter's was captured by La Giraudiere, but was afterwards restored to Denys, who, however, abandoned the island about 1670, when all his buildings at this post were destroyed by fire. In 1737 St. Peter's was fortified by M. de St. Ovide, the commandant at Louisbourg ; but during the New-England crusade against the latter city, in 1745, it was captured and plundered by Col. Moulton's Massachusetts regiment. In 1752 St. Peter's was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Micmacs, and was sur- rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Toulouse, and was connected with Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, constructed by the Count de Raymond. Besides the garrison of French troops, there was a civil population of 230 souls ; and in 1760 Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than even Louisbourg itself. The King of France afterwards reprimanded the Count de Ray- mond for constructing his military road, saying that it would afford the English an opportunity to attack Louisbourg on the landward side. From the Strait of Canso to Grand River the coast is occupied by a line of humble and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-French fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St. Peter's are the L''Ardoise settlements (so named because a slate-quarry was once worked here). In 1750 there was'^k large French village here, with a garrison of THE BRAS D'OR. Route 35. 147 troops, and L'Ardoise was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Indians. At Grand River the character of the population changes, though the names of the set- tlement would indicate, were history silent, that the towns beyond that point were originally founded by the French. They are now occupied exclusively by the Scotch, whose light vessels put out from the harbors. of Grand River, L'Archeveque, St. Esprit, Blancherotte, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are fishing-villages. A few miles N. E. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Indian Eeserva- tion near Louis Cove. Chapel Island is a little way off shore, and is the largest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs Bask and Tomma, for the use of their tribe, and have ever since been re- tained by their descendants. On the largest island. is a Catholic chapel where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal games. Beyond this point the road runs N. E. between Soldier's Cove and the bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, off which are the Red Islands. " The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in length. After leaving Sydney you ride beside the Spanish River a short distance, until you come to the portage, which separates it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride by white-pebbled beach and wide stretch of wave. Now we roll along amidst pri- meval trees,— not the evergreens of the sea-coast, but familiar growths of maple, beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or hackmatack, —imperishable for shipcraft ; now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear surface of the lake, with leafy island, and peninsula dotted in its depths, in all its native grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single spot of sail in tbe far-off, is holy and sublime." (Cozzens.) (, About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlement is the way-office and vil- lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10 - 12 M. S. E. across the highlands jto the Grand-River Lake, or Loch Lomond, a picturesque sheet of water 16-6 M. long, studded with islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses the lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. N. of Loch TJist, and about 7 M. from the Bras d'Or, is a remarkable saline spring, [containing in each gallon 343 grains of chloride of sodium, 308 of chloride of cal- ;cium, and 9 of the chlorides of magnesium and potassium. This water i.^ singularly (free from sulphurous contamination, and has been found very efficient in cases of ', asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accommodations for visitors. About 6 M. N. W. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance 'j to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for i 18-20 M, to the N. E., and is bordered by lines of bold'heights. Near its •; N. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from ,8 to 82 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper end. Above Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 ft. high, be- jyond which is Cape Hhumore. 3-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond Which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to EdoobekuTc^ 148 Route 36. THE BKAS D'OR. between the heights and the blue water. The opposite shore (4 M. dis- tant) is occupied by the Indians, whose principal village is called Escasoni, and is situated near the group of islands in Crane Cove. The bay noAV diminishes to 2 M in width, and is followed to its source in the lagoon of Tweednogie. Tlie aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian, along the shores of the East Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crosses the narrow isthmus (4-5 M.), and then follows the line of the Forks Lake and the Spanish River, to the town of Sydney. Sydney, see page 150. 36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. By the Sea. There are several routes by sea between Halifax and Sydney, the fares being S 8-10. The tourist should send a note to the steamship-agents, at Halifax, for par- ticulars. The easiest route from Boston is by steamship to Port Hawkesbury, on the Strai*^ of Canso, and thence up the Bras d'Or. qjJ There are now several steamboats plying on the Bi-as d'Or, giving the best c facilities (from the Provincial point of view) for visiting the various ports and villf^" ges of this lovely inland sea. {"t I a» le Halifax Harbor, see page 93. The course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, ; " cold, dark, and rock-bound coast, off which are submerged ledges on* which the sea breaks into white foam. This coast is described in Routes 28 and 29 ; but of its aspect from the sea the Editor can say nothing, as he was obliged to traverse the route as far as Canso by night. i After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- abucto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysborough and the Strait of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Pomt, on Cape Breton, the open- ing is about 30 M. wide, inside of which are Isle Madame (Route 34) and St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, after ci'ossing this wide open- ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- out character, and is studded with white fisliing-hamlets. St. Esprit is visible, with its little harbor indenting the coast. About the middle of the last century the British frigate Tilbury, 64, was caught on this shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work off, in spite of the utmost exertions of her great crew. The Tilbury Rocks, off St. Esprit, still commemorate the place where she finally struck and went to pieces. 200 sailors V ere cither drowned br killed by being dashed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and 15 officers were saved from the waves by the French people of St. Esprit, who nour- ished and sheltered them with tender care. England and France being then at war, the survivors of the Tilbury'' s crew were despatched to France as prisoners, on the French frigate Hermione. This vessel was, however, captured in the Enghsh Chan- , nel, and the sailors were released. Beyond St. Esprit the coves of*Frambo'se and Fourchu make in from - CAPE BRETON. Route 36. 149 the sea, and above the deep inlet of Gabarus Bay the lighthouse of Louis- bourg (see Route 38) may perhaps be seen. lu 1744 the French ships Notre Dame de la Delivrance, Louis iSrasme, and Marquis cfAntin sailed from Callao (Peru), with a vast amount of treasure on board, con- cealed under a surface-cargo of cocoa. The two latter were captured off the Azores by the British privateers Priri'-e Frederick and Duke, but during the 3 liours' action the Notre Dame escaped. Not diring to approach the French coast while so many hostile privateers were cruising about, she crowded all sail and bore away for Louis- bourg. 20 days later she sighted Scatari,and it seemed that her valuabl; cargo was already safe. But she was met, a short distance to the S , by a Britisli fleet, and became a prize. Among the people captured on the Notre Damn was Don Antonio d'Ulloa, the famous Spanish scientist, who was kept here in light captivity for two months, and who afterwards wrote an interesting book about Capo Breton. The lucky vessels that made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and Chester, and their crews had great prize-money, — for over $4,000,000 was found on the Notre Dame, in bars and ingots of gold and silver. In 1756 the French frigate Arc-en- del, 50, and the Amitie were captured in these waters by H. B M. ships Centurion VLud Success. In July, 1756, the French vessels Heros, 74, lllitslre, 64, and two 33-gun frigates met H B. M. ships Grafton, 70, Not- tingham, 70, and the Jaynair.a sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark. The action was indecisive, and each fleet claimed that the other stole away at night. The loss of men on both sides was considerable. In May, 1745, a gall-mt naval action was fought hereabouts between the French ship-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. Warren's fleet, consisting of the Superb (60-gun ship), and the Launceston, Mermaid, and E'tham (;40-gun frigates). The Vigilant \va,3 carrying a supply of military goods from Brest to Louisljourg, and met the Mer- maid, standing off and on in the fog. The latter made sail and fled toward the squadron, and the Vigilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the British fleet. Warren's ships opened fire on every side, but the French captain, the Marquis de Maisonforte, refused to surrender, though his decks were covered with stores and his lower batteries were below the water-line by reason of the heavy cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasted for 7 hours, while Maisonforte kept his colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away by the British shot, the rudde.' was broken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers of the crew wounded or dead. The steamship now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which {maintain a unifoi-m depth of over 30 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- (tory of Cape Breton, from which the island receives its name. It is a low Iheadland, off which is the dark rock of Porto Nuevo Island. There is an old French tradition to the effect that Yerazzano, the eminent Floren- tine navigator, landed near Cape Breton on his last voyage, and attempted to found a fortified settlement. But being suddenly attacked and overpowered by the Indians, himself and all his crew were put to death in a cruel manner. It is known to his- tory that this discoverer was never heard from after leaving France on his last voy- age (in 1525). It is beheved that Cape Breton was first visited by the Marigold (70 tons), in 1503 ; whereof it is written : " Here diners of our men went on land vpon the very icape, where, at their arriuall they found the spittes of oke of the Savtages which had roasted meate a httle before. And as they viewed the count-rey they saw diners ■ be-istes and foules, as blacke foxes, deeres, otters, great foules with redde legges, pen- guines, and certaine others." Thence the Marigold sailed to the site of Louisbourg, ■ where her crew landed to get water, but were driven off shore by the Indians. The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by the Breton and ) Basque fishermen, who in those days frequen>ed these seas. Cape Breton was at J that time a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the South of France. It was fi-equented by the Huguenots about this time, and had large fleets engaged in the fisheries. By the changing of the course of the Adour River, and the drifting of I sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken away, and in 1841 it had but ' 920 inhabitants. (Dictionnaire Ency eloped ique.) In 1629 Lord Ochiltree, the son of the Earl of Arran, came out with 60 colonists, 150 Route 36, SYDNEY. and founded a town on the harbor of Baleine, S. E. of Cape Breton. The headstrong Scottish noble was aibitrary in his dealings with the French fishermen on the coast, and was soon attacked by a Ftrong body of Normans. The armor-clad Scots for a time defended their fort bravely, but were at last compelled to surrender, and were carried off as ])rif-oners, including Lord Ochiltree, who was plundered of all that he posf:e3L?cd, and v.as gent to France in the hold of the Grrat fit. Andrew. In 1725 the French frigate Lr CliamcuK, GO, was wrecked on Porto Nuevo Island, and all on board were lost. Among tlie.'e unfortunate people were M dc ChaTOl, Intendant cf (Janada; M de Louvigny, Governor of Trois lliviercs, numerous other colonial dignitaiics, and feveral ecflesiastics. " This misfortune in the course of a single niglit brought more grief and loss upon the French colonies than they had Bufiered during £0 years of warfare." (Charlevoix.) Scatari Island is about 5 M. N. E. of Cape Breton, and lies on the 4Cth parallel of N. latitude. It is a rock -bound island, 8 by 4 M. in area, and is a favorite resort of sea-birds. On the E. point is a powerful revolving white light, and on the W. end is a fixed red light. The Halifax and Syd- ney steamers sometimes run inside of Scatari, through the Main-a-Dieu (orMenadou) Passage, near the obscure fisliing-hanilet of Main-a-Dleu. N. and W. of Scatari is the wide, deep, and unsheltered Mira Bay. After crossing the broad moutli of Miru Bay, the shallower biglit of Cow Bay is seen on the 1. The vessel steams to tlie N., by the dark and rug- ged rock o^ Flint Island, and then runs about N. W. by the great coal-dis- tricts of C^/ace Tyr/?/ and jLzn^rm (sec Route 37). Rounding the lighthouse on Low Point (or Flat Point), she ascends Sydney Harbor, passing the mines and villages of the Victoria Company on the 1., and the great shafts and works, hamlets and churches, of the General Mining Association on the r. After running by the lighthouse on the S. E. Bar, the opening of the W. Arm is seen, and the steamer soon reaches her wharf at Sydney. Sydney, formerly the capital of the Island-Province of Cape Breton,! occupies a fivorablc position on one of the finest harbors on th^ Atlantic! coast, and is the chief town of the island. It has about 3,000 inhabitants,! •with 6 churches, 2 newspapers, a masonic hall, and the Court-House of,, Cape Breton County. The principal article of trade is coal, of which vast I quantities are brought by railways to this harbor, whence they are sent away on vessels. Cattle and provisions are also exported from this point Ij to St. Pierre and Newfoundland. Near the water's edge is a white build- \ ing, surrounded by balconies and adjoined by a broad pier and a flag-staff. This little estate is the headquarters of the French fleet in the North At-: lantic, and is kept with true man-of-war's-man's neatness. There is',/ usually a frigate of this fleet lying off the village, and their bands fre- , quently play in the town. There is a pleasant view over the harbor from ! ' the old fort on Barrack Point. , It is usually said of a fair harbor anywhere in the Australian or Ameri- ' can colonies, that it "is capable of containing the whole British navy." This remark has been made concerning Sydney Harbor by the best I authority, Capt. Bayfield, R. J^, the marine surveyor who made the \ NORTH SYDNEY. Route 36. 151 Admiralty charts for the British North -American coast. The deep water continues above the wharves, and as far up as Sydney Bridge. Over 600 vessels called at this port in the summer of 1874, most of which were here freighted with coal. The harbor is usually ice-bound during the winter, from Jan. 1 to April 1, and on this account is less valuable than others more to the S. The town of Sydney is not attractive in its external aspects, though it is said that its society is of a high order of culture and exclusive dignity. It possesses many of the social attributes of an old colonial capital, though there are now no vestiges of its former position save the deserted barracks and decaying batteries. The stranger ia Sydney will be able to see all that he cares to of the town in less than an hour, for it is devoid of interest, notwithstanding the prominent position which it holds in the world's marine intelligence and shipping news. Svdney is 750 M. from New York, 600 M. from Boston, 240 M. from Halifax, 400 M. from St. John's (N. F.), and 720 M. from Quebec. Railroad-trains run from Sydney to Lo isbourg (see page 154) ; stages, to Lingan, Little Glace Bay, and Cow Bay ; ferry-boats to N. Sydney ; steamboats to Baddeck, the Bras d'Or, and the Strait of Oauso ; and steamships to St. John's (Newfound- land), Halifax, etc. There are several small hoteH and hoarding-houses at Sydney and N. Sydney, but the large and comfortable hotel .wliich tlie custom of the locality seems to warrant has not yet been built. The steamship officers can recommend the best stopping- places. NorthL Sydney is 6 - 8 M. N. W. of Sydney, with which it is connected by the steant ferry-boat Lady of the Lake, making three trips daily. It is a busy and dingy little place, and has several tanneries, a shoe-factory, and the shipping-dppots of the S3^dney coal-mines. There are several taverns, of the most inferior order. The marine-railway at this point was for many months occupied by the hulks and wrecked vessels which were left along the coast after the Lord's-Day Gale. About 4 M. N. W. is the French Village on the Little Bras d'Or; and a road runs 30 M. S. W. over the uninhabited highlands of the peninsula of St. Andrews, to the Grand Narrows, on the Bras d'Or Lake. The harbor of Sydney was visited in 1587 by the Englisli ship Hopewell, whicii drove out a Biscayan vessel and plundered all the fish-stages along the shore. Many savages here visited the ship, " among whom was their king, whose name was Itary, and their qucene, to whom also we gaue coats and kniues and other tritles. These Sauages called the harborow Cibo. In this place are the greatest multitude of lobsters that euer we heard of ; for we caught at one hawle with a little draw net aboue 140." This harbor soon received the name of Bale des Espagnols, be- cause diu'ing the troublous times of the 16th century, it was the favorite resort of the Spanish fishermen, as Louisbourg was of the English, and St. Anne's of the French. In 1696 the French frigates UEwieux and Pro fond, commanded by the valiant Iberville, entered tlie harbor of Sydney, and smnmoned to its shores the Indian warriors of Cape Breton. A chosen force of Micmacs were soon embarked, and then they sailed away to the destruction of Pemaquid. This was also the station of the powerful French squadron under the Ohcvaiicr du Palais. After Admiral Walker's terribly disastrous voyage in the Gulf {in 1711), the remainder of his fleet was gathered together here, and it is said that the 42 war-vessels then assembled formed the most powerful naval armament ever seen in these waters. They lay in the roadstead, abreast of Lloyd's Cove, and the Admiral had the following pompous in- scription erected on the shore : — '•^ In nomine Patris, Filii,et SpiritiU Sancti, Amen. Omnibus in Christi Fideli- bus Salutem. Anna, Dei Gratics, Magn. BritannicB, FrancicB, et HibernicB^ Regina ; 152 Routes?. THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. ToHusque Americce Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In CvjM harum insularum vulgo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimonium, Hoc Erexit Monumeyitum, Sucb Majestatis Servus, et Subditus fidelissitnus, D. Hovenden Walker, Egues Auratvs, Omnium in America Navium Regalium, Ptrnfectus et Thalassiarcha. Monte Septembris, Anno iS'aZM«2,s MDCCXI." The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its severance from Nova Scotia (1784) was Major Desbarres, a veteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk Valley, Lake George, Ticonderoga, Louisbourg, and Quebec. One of his chief steps was to select a site for the new capital of the island, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. arm of the capacious harbor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus established was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. In the spring of 1785 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Mayor of Albany, N. Y.) came from Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the forests, and erected buildings. In 1781 a sharp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the Prench frigates UAstiee and UHerrn'one (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- ing of the Cliarlestown, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack. 6, and the armed transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little JizcA; surren- dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it net been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 wounded. The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La Perouse, Avho started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but •was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle of Vanikoro. 37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- Fields. The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- nected with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 75c.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or. and the harbor of Sj'dney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- lage has a population of 2,500. The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $ 500,000. The sea- shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. The Victoria Mines are W. of this district, and near Low Point, 9 M. from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- ness. The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage from Sydney (15 M. ; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the French word L'Indienne, applying to the same place. It was occupied and fortified by the British early in the 18th centurj^, and a garrison of 50 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the French army at Louisbourg was supplied with large quantities of coal from this point, and several carg&es were sent away. During the summer THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. 153 of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all destroyed. The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage (fare, $1). They are situated on Glace Bay and Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. The Gowrie and Block-House Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the most extensive on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here ai-e in con- siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full sweep into, the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here during the Lord's-Daj^ Gale, and th-e shores were strewn with broken hulks and many yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape Morien, and on the N. is Cape Ferry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint Island, bearing a revolving white light. The coal-beds of Cape Breton were first described by Denys, in 1672, and from 1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New England. In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisl)ourg ■was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston." Between 1745 and 1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indians by fortified outposts. The Abb6 Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749." But this trade was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers " still carried on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased rapidly, and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House 'coals are used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. " In travelling from Hawkesbury to Port Hood, and Baddeck and back again, by the Bras d'Or Lakes, one traverses a country in some places thickly settled, but all apparently well settled by a race of men physically the superior of any other on the face of this continent. They are chiefly of Highland Scotch descent, with a sprink- ling of French Canadians, and as a matter of course nearly all Roman Catholics iu their religious belief. . . . The Cape Bretoners seem to be very prolific in the propaga- tion of their species. No immigration is wanted here ; only give them time, and they will compass the same ends themselves. Nothing under ten children is consid- ered a large family, and those who fall short of this generally consider it necessary to explain the unusual circumstance." 154 Route 38. LOUISBOURG. 38. The Fortress of Louisbourg. Louisbourg is reached by railway (running occasional passenger-cars) from Sydney, in 24 M. A road runs hence 15 - 18 M. N. E. along an in- teresting coast, to Cape Breton (see page 149), passing the hamlets of Big and Little Loran, "named in honor of the liaughty house of Lorraine." Cape Breton itself is nearly insulated by the deep haven of Baleine Cove, and just off its S. point is the rock of Porto Nuevo, rising boldly from the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet of Main-a-Dieu the Mira Bay road passes the hamlet of Catalogne (18 M. from SydnejO, at the outlet of the broad lagoon of the Catalogne Lake, and follows the Mira River from the village of Mira Gut to the drawbridge on the Louisbourg road, Avhere the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge has been established (12 M. from Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12 - 14 M. to Marion Bridge, a Scot- tish settlement near the long and narrow Mira Lake. The road ascends thence along the valley of the Salmon River to the vicinity of Loch Uist and Loch Lomond (see page 147). Gabarus Bay is 8-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep and spa- cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishing- settlement, near the Gabarus, Belfry, and Mira Lakes. Louisbourg at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- bor is entered thi-ough a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white light on the N. E. headland, and is a capacious basin with 5-7 fathoms of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Point Rochfort, at the S. W. side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city, • "The ruins of the once formidable batteries, with wide broken gaps (blown up by gunpowder), present a melancholy picture of past energy. The strong and capa- cious magazine, onoe the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still nearly entire, but, hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, now affords a com- modious shelter for flocks of peaceful sheep, which feed around the burial-ground, where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Briton are deposited ; while beneath the clear cold ware may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation ere England became mistress of her colonies on the shores of the Western Atlantic. Desolation now sits with a ghastly smile around the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the loud reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bells they return in the dusky solitude of eve to their singular folds." (Montgomery M.\rtix.") " If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a patch of dark greensward on- Point Rochfort, — the site of the old burying-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of hundreds of brave New-Englandcrs. No monument marks the sacred spot, but the waves of the restless ocean, in calm or storm, sing an everlasting requiem over the graves of the departed heroes." (R. Brown.) The port of Lonisbourg was called from the earliest times Havre d VAnglots, but no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland and Acadia to Great Britain, by the Treaty of Utrecht. Then the French troops and inhabitants evacuated Placentia (N. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 M. de St. Ovide de Brouillan was made Governor of Louisbourg ; and the work of building the fortress was begun about 1720. THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 155 The powerful defences of" the Dunkirk of America" were hurried to completion, and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of Louis- bourg, whos^e towers rose like giants above the northern seas.'' Over 30,000,000 livres were drawn from the French royal treasury, and were expended on the forti- fications of Louisbourg ; and numerous cargoes of building-stone were sent hither from France (as if Cape Breton had not enough, and little else). Fleets of New- England vessels bore lumber and bricks to the new fortress ; and the Acadians sent in supplies and cattle. For more than 20 years the French government devoted all its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of these fortifications. Inhabitants were drawn to the place by bounties ; and Louisbourg soon had a large trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounders, on Goat Island ; and by the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guus and raked the entrance. On the landward side was a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great careening-dock was opposite. The land and harbor sides of the town were defended by lines of ramparts and bastions, on which 80 guus were mounted; and the West Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, nunnery, and hospital of St. Jean de Dieu. The streets crossed each other at right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- ward wall." The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a large garrison. Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, gave the military conmiand to'Col Wm. Pepperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,250 men ; New Hampshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 ; and George Whitefield gave the motto for the army, " Nil desperandum, Cliristo dure,'''' thus making the enterprise a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's West-India fleet, and a landing was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- sisted of 750 French veterans and l,.50O militia, and the assailants were "4,000 un- disciplined militia or volunteers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- tions, never seen a shot fired in anger all their lives, encamped in an open country, .... and sadly_ deficient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor were set on fire by Vaughan's New-Hampshire men ; and the black smoke drove down on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their guns and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. Fascine batteries were erected at 1,550 and 950 yards from the AVest Gate, and a breaching battery was reared at night within 250 yards of the walls. Amid the roar of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by sea and land; and 1,500 of the Americans were sick or wounded, 600 were kept out in the country watching the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a disastrous attempt at storming the Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all dis- mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- tenable by the American cannonade. On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, Sunderland, Canterbury, and Princess Mary, 60 guns each ; and the Launcesion, Chester, Lark, Mermaid, Hector, and Eltham, of 40 guns each) was drawn up off the harbor ; and the army was arrayed " to march with drums beating and colours flying to the assault of the West Gate" But Gov. Duchambon saw these ominous preparations and surrendered the works, to avoid unnecessary carnage. " As the troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their hearts for the first time sank within them. ' God has gone out of his way,' said they, 'in a re- markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the hearts of the French to give up and deliver this strong city into our hand.' " Pepperell attributed his success, not to his artillery or the fleet of line-of-battle ships, but to the prayers of New Eng- land, daily arising from every village in behalf of the absent army. " The news of ' this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment." Boston and London and the chief towns of America and England were illuminated ; ; the batteries of London Tower fired salutes; and King George II. made Pepperell a baronet, and Warren a rear-admiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 4,130 French people were sent home on a fleet of transports ; the siege-batteries were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls ; and in the follow- ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian Smollet designated 156 HcuteSS. THE FOKTKESS OF LOUISBOUEG. the capture of Louisbourg. " the most importaiit achievement of the war of 1745 " ; and the authors of the " UniTersal History '" considered it " an equivalent for all the successes of the French upon the Continent." The siege is minutely described (with maps'! ju Brown's '* History of the Island of Cape Eivton." pages 1(^-24S. '' That a colony like Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, should display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only by the smaller Province of Xew Hampshire : that tliey should equip both land and ?ea forces to attack a redoubtable fortress callevl by British officers impregnable, and on \^h^ch the French Crown had expendeii immense sums; .... that"4.0OO rustic militia, whose officers were as inexperieuce^.i in wjir as their men, although supported by na^-al forces, should conquer the i-egular troops of the gi-eatost milihxry power of the age, and wrest from their hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short of miracle." (Beloiish Murdoch.) So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisboursr that the great French Armada w;is sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroy Poston. After the dis;istrous fiiilui-e of this ex}>ei.lition (see ptige 99"), L;\ Jonquiere wa^; desp;\tched with 1^3 men-of-war and 2S other vessels, on the ssime errand, but was attttckevl by the tlet^ts of Anson and Warren otf Caj.^ Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and S S,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargot^s. In 1749 the ^^•ar was; ended, Louisbourg and Cape Breton were restoi-ed to France, and *' after four } ears of warftire in all parts of the world, alter aU the waste of blood and treasui-e, the war ended jusi where it K^g;\n." When war broke out again between England and France, in 17-55, Louisbourg was blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 line-of-battle ships, a squadron of frig;\tes. and 50 transports, bearing 0,000 soldiers, to reduce the fortress ; but France was too prompt to be surpri>et.l. and held it Avithi 17 Siiil of the line and 10,000 men. The -vast English fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and then recoilevl, sjiited to Halilax. and soon broke up, seniling the army to New York and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfnrt. to reinforce Louisbourg : but the Fouiiroi/ant,Si^. the Crfhais, 64, and other vessels were capture^!. Six men-of-war and sixteen trivnsports reached Louisbourg with a great amount of militai-y supplies, Great Britain new fitteti out an immense fleet at Spithead, consisting of the Namier, dO guns ; Koi.al WiUiam,SO ; Princess Amelia, SO : Ttrrrible, 74 ; the NortA- wnbtrianti, Ox/orci, Bur/oni, Vanguard, Somerset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each ; the Devonshire, Bt'djortJ, Captain, &nii Prince Frederick, ^-i each; the Pembroke, Kinsstoii, Ycrk, Prince of Orange, Defiance, &nd yottinsham,^ guns each; the Centurion and Sutherland, 50 each; the frigates Juno, Grarmnant, JS'is-'i tin gale, Hunter, Boreas, H'nd. Trtnt, Pt-rt Mahon, Diana, S/iannon, Kennington, Scar- borough. Squirre!, Hank, Beai'er, T\/loe, and Halirhx : and the fire-ships Etna and Lightning. There were also IIS transports, carrying 13.600 men, in 17 regiments. Boscawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, aiid WoUe was one of the briga- diers. This powerful armament soon appeared off Louisboiurg. and at dawn on the 5th of June. 175^, the British troops landed at Gabarus Bay. and pushed through the fatal surf of Freshwater Cove, amid the hot fire of the Fiviich shore-batteries. After losiug 110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the French fell back, on Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the siege of 1745, and was defended by o,4CiO men of the Artillery and the regiments of "N'olon- taires Errangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambise, besides large bodies of militia and Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war, Prudent, "i-k: Entreprenant, 74; Capricieux, 64; Celcbre.tyi; Bient'aisant,i^; Apollo n, bO] Diane, o^: Arethu.se, S3: F««e/f, 36; Echo.S2: Biche.l6: and C/jerre , 16. Wolfe's brigt'.de then occupied the old lughthouse Battery, and opened fire on the city, the F'reuch fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon completely de- stroyed by Wolfe's tren-.endous cannonade ; and sit:ce the harbor Avas thus left vinguarxied. Gov. Prucour sank the frigates Diane, ApoUv^n, Biche, Fidele, and Chevre at its entrance. Meantime the main army %t;is erect'ng works on Green Hill and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French! rampiirts and ships, and annoyed on the i"ear by the Indians. During a bloody sortie by the French, the Earl of Dun dona Id and many of the Grenadiers were killed. The heavy siege-batteries wer^e advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barracks. The magazine of the EntrepreTiaHi , 7^ blew up, and the Capricieux and Ce^cbre, THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 157 catching the fire in their sails, were burned at their moorings. The Arethuse and Echo ran out of the harbor in foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only- two French frigates remained, and these were both captured Ijy boats from the fleet, after a daring attack. On the 26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered the city, with 5,037 men, 23 3 pieces of artillery, and immense amounts of stores and supplies. The French had lost about 1,000 men, the British nearly 600, during the siege. All England rang with the tidings of the fall of " the Dunkirk of America," special prayers and thanksgivings wei'e read in all the churches of the kingdom ; and 11 sets of colors from Louisbourg were presented to the King at Kensington Palace, whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's Cathedral. Marine insurance on Anglo -American vessels fell at once from 30 to 12 per cent, because the French privateers were driven from the western seas by the closing of their port of refuge. In 1759 the great fleet and army of Gen. Wolfe gathered at Louisbourg and sailed away to the Conquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it was deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Louisbourg ; so sappers and miners were sent there in the summer of 1760, and " in the short space of six months all tlie fortifications and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, — the walls and glacis levelled into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, nothing to mark their former situation but heaps of stones and rubbish. Nothing was left standing but the private houses, which had been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — in short, everything of the slight<\st value, even the hewn stones which had decorated the public buildings, were transported to Halifax." The British garrison was withdrawn in 1768, and after the foundation of Sydney " the most splendid town of La Nouvelle F'rance " was completely deserted by its people. During some years past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would restore Louisbourg to more than ics former importance. It is proposed to construct a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains would be carried. It is thought that the freigbtand passenger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements^on the territory traversed would more than defray the cost of construction and mainte- nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- steamships, for whose uc(ions from the central expanse of waters, studded with innumerable islets covered with a ricli growtli of spruce and hemlock, present views the most picturesque and diversified imaginable " (Brown.) " The scenery of this vast inlet is in some places beautifully picturesque, and in some others n)onotonous and uninteresting, but in many parts of a sublime charac- ter, which exhibits the sombre gloom of pine forests, the luxuriant verdure of broad valleys and wooded mountiins, and the wild features of lofty promontories frowning in stubborn ruggedness over the waters of the rivers and inlets." (M'Gregor ) "So wide is it, and so indented by bread bays and deep coves, that a coasting journey around it is e(|u,il in extent to a voyage acro.ss the Atlanlic. Besides the distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shores, there are many noble islaniLs in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- tering white pebbles. But over all this wide landscipe there broods a spirit of primeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- less piece of water in this part of the worlil ; highly favored as it is by nature, land- locked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, free from fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of land, about i M. wide ; abounding in timber, coal, and gypsum, and valuable for its fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for wnnt of that element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.''^ (Cozzens. ) '• The climate of Baddeck in summer is delightful, the nights being always cool and tiie heat of the day never oppressive; on only one occasion last July did the thermometer indicate 80'^. The air has a life and an elasticity in it unknown in lowir hitirniies during the summer months. . . . The water- view is one of the finest to be found on the; Atlantic coast. The clear blue waters of the Bras d'Or, here seven or eight miles wide, are apparently hemmed in V)y ranges of mountains, whicli in some places rise abruptly from the water in lofty cliffs of plasterer gypsum, worn by the action of water into strange and fantastic; forms. These white cliffs, fringed with dark evergreens, form, witii the red conglomerate and bright green fields p( retching down to the water's edge, a most beautiful picture, which is appro- priately framed with long lines of mountains. The Bras d'Or, though an arm of the sea, has here a tide of only from six to eighteen inches, so that those fond of aquatic pursuits are not burdened with a head current when homeward bound." (CllANDLER.) ST. PATRICK'S CHANNEL. Route 4I. 167 41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood. — St. Patrick's Channel and Whycocomagh. This route is traversed by the Royal mail-stage on Monday and Wednesday, leav- ing Baddeck at noon, and reaching Whycocomagh after 4 o'clock, and Mabou at 9 p. M. The distance is about 50 M. ; the fare is f 2 50. The Royal mail-stage on this route is a one-horse wagon with a single seat, so that the accommodations for travel are limited. Mr. AVaruer thus describes the road between Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " Froin the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in constant sight of its magnificent water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hill- side skirting a point or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always with the Bras d'Or in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its em- "bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands. Sometimes we opened upon a broad water plain bounded by the W^atchabaktchkt hills, and again we looked over hill after hill receding into the soft and haz}' blue of the land beyond the great mass of the Bras d'Or. The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Ba}^ of Naples and the Cornice Road ; we did nothing of the sort ; we held on to the seat, prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant expression to our wonder and delight." St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is made highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its general covirse is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 650 ft. high, and crosses the Middle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. across the green mead- ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, and it passes within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known as the Little Narrows, about which there are 150 inhabitants. A road leads N. W. 5 M into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Aiiislie Lake, which covers 25 square miles, and is the source of the Margaree River. Its shores are broken and rugged, and are occupied by a hardy population of Highlanders. Petroleum springs have been found in this vicinity (see page 169). Beyond the Little Narrows is a magnificent basin, 15 M. long and 3-5 M. wide, into whose sequestered and forest-bound waters large ships make their way, and are here laden with timber for Europe. On his second trip up this Basin, the Editor was startled, on rounding a promontory, at seeing a large Liverpool ship lying here, at anchor, with her yard-arms almost among the trees. The road runs around the successive spurs of the Salt 2[t., a massive ridge on the N. shore of the Basin, and many very attractive views are gained from its upper reaches. The water is of a rich blue, pai-tly owing to its depth, which is from 3 to 20 fathoms. Whycocomagh. [Inverness House) is a Scottish Presbyterian hamlet, situated at the N. W. angle of the Basin, and surrounded by pretty Trosach- like scenery. There are about 400 inhabitants in this neighborhood, 168 Route 4^. WHYCOCOMAGH. whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 6 - 8 ft. high ; and foxes are often seen among the hills. It is claimed that valuable deposits of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. Stages run 30 M. S. W. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line, " What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d'Or, called by the drirer Hogamah Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs of graceful hills, hke the capes of some pottic sea-coast A peaceful place, this Whycocomagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d'Or made a summer music all along the quiet street ; the bay lay smiling with its islands in front, and an amphi- theatre of hills rose beyond." (Warner's Baddeck.) On leaving Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skye Glen, a long, narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlanders. The wagon soon reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mabou Valley,, with tlie mountainous mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glittei- ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are reached, and the traveller arrives at the wretched inn of Mabou. The stage for Port Hood (10 M. S.) leaves at noon, reaching Port Hastings at 7.30 P. M. (see Route 42). The Bras d'Or steamer ascends St. Patrick's Channel to Whycocomagh every week, on its alternate trips passing around from Sydney to the Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to Whycocomagh, $ 2). This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and reveals as much natm-al beauty, if made during the hours of daylight. The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are its most striking phases. 42. The West Coast of Cape Breton. — Port Hood and Mar- garee. The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hastings every evening, at about 4 o'clock, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train. Fare to Port Hood, $ 2 ; 35 1 by steamer, in summer. Distances. — Port Hastings to Low Point, 7 M. ; Creignish, 9 ; Long Point, 14 ; Judique, 18; Little Judique, 24; Port Hood, 28; Mabou, 38; Broad Cove Inter- vale, 56 ; Margaree Forks, 68; Margaree, 76 ; Cheticamp, 88. The first portion of this route is interesting, as it affords frequent pleas- ant views of the Strait of Can so and its bright maritime processions. The trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay, over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Beyond the settlements of Creignish and Long Point is -^e populous district of Judique, inhab- PORT HOOD. Route 4%. 169 ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. The Judiquers are famous throughout the Province for their great stature, and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- itants. Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 sail haA^e been seen in the port at one time. Thei'e are large coal-deposits in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- Englanders^ in 1790. " This port affords the only safe anchorage on the W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high shores of Henry Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whjxocomagh (see page 167). Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the broad estuai-y of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scenery, and contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly Avooded. The Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of Lake, AinsUe (see page 167), Avhich has several small Scottish hamlets among the glens. "The angler who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to. the shores of the lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running stream, will never he content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its very mouth." A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of Broctd Cove Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to the Gulf abreast of Sea- Wolf Island, on whose chflfs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 170 Roitte 42. MARGAREE. high. Margaree ForTcs is a rural village at the junction of the N. E. and S. W. Branches of the famous Margaree River, where salmon abound from June 15 until July 15, and rare sea-trout fishing is found. " In Cape Breton the beautiful IMargaree is one of the most noted streams for sea- trout, and its clear water and picturesque scenery, vriuding through intervale mead- ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, and backed hy wooded hills over a thousand feet in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf" There are several small hamlets in this region, with a total population of over 4,000. jMargaree is on the harbor of the same name, near the Chimner-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. from Port Hood, and has a small fleet of fishing-vessels. A shore-road runs N. E. 12 M. to Chetlcamp, a district containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian race. It is a fislung station of Robin & Co., an ancient and powerful commercial house on the Isle of Jersey; and was founded by them in 1784, and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The harbor is suitable for small vessels, and is formed b}'' Cheticamp Island, sheltering the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revolving white light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. at sea. N. E. and E. of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of the N. part of Cape Breton (see page 163), an unexplored and trackless land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and the most northerly point of the Province, Cape St. Lawrence (see page 159), is 30 M. N. E. by E. ^ E. from the N. part of Cheticamp Island. The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and wrecked hundreds of vessels, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape Breton and in the narrow seas to the W. , towards Prince Edward's Island and the Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its effects, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The following spirited poem is inserted here, by the kind permission of its author, Mr. Edmund C. Sted- man. Tlie ILord's-Day Gale. In Gloucester port lie fishing craft,— More stauneii nnd trim were never seen : They are sharp before and sheer abaft. And true their lines the masts between. Alons the wharves of Gloucester Town Their fnres are lishtly landed down. And the laden flalv.es to sunward lean. Well know the men each cruising-^ound, And where the cod and mackerel be : Old Eastern Point the schooners round And leave Cape Ann on the larboard lee : Sound are the planks, the hearts are bold, That brave December s surges cold On George's shoals in the outer sea. And some must sail to the banks far north And set their trawls for the hungry cod,— In the ghostly fo2 creep back and torth By shro'uled paths no foot hath trod ; Ui'on the crews the ice-winds blow, The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — Their lives are in the hand of God I New England ! New England ! Needs sail they must, so brave and poor, Or June be warm or Winter storm. Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door ! Three weeks at home, three long months gone, While the patient good-wives sleep aloneT And wake to hear the breakers rour. The Grand Bank gathers in its dpad, — The deep sea-sand is their winding-sheet; AA'ho does not George s bdlows dread That dash together the driftins fleet ? Who does not long to hear, in May, The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Bay, The fairest ground where lishermeu meet ? There the west wave holds the red sunlight Till the bells at home are rung for nine : Short, short the watch, and calm the night ; The fiery northern streamers shine ; The eastern sky anon is gold. And winds irohi piny forests old. Scatter the white mists ofl' the brine. THE LORD'S-DAY GALE. Route 42. 171 New England : New Enpland ! Thou lovest well thine ocean main 1 It spreadeth its locks amons thy rocks, And lonf? against thy h-art hath lain ; Thy ships upon its bosom ride And feel the heaving of its tide : To thee its secret speech is jdain. Cape Breton and Edward Isle between, In strait and gulf the schooners lay ; The sea was all :it peace, I ween. The night helore that August day ; "Was never a Gloucester skipper there. But thought erelong, wit)i a right good fare, To sail for home from Saint Lawrence Bay. New England ! New England ! Thy giant's love was turned to hate 1 The winds control his fickle soul. And in his wrL'jh lie hath no mate. Thy shores his angry scourges tear, And for tliy childreii in his care The sudden tempests lie in wait. The East Wind gathered all unkno:^Ti, — A tliick sea cloud his course before ; lie left ijy night the frozen zone And sn'iote the cliffs of J>abrador ; He lashed the coasts on either liand, And betwixt the Cnpe and Newfoundland Into tlie Bay his armies pour. He caught our helpless cruisers there ' As a gray wolf harries tlie huddling fold ; A sleet - a darkness - filled the air, A shuddering wave before it rolled : That Lord s-Day morn it was a breeze, — At noon, a blast that shook the seas, — At night — a wind of Death took hold ! It leaped across the Breton bar, A death-wind from the stormy East I It scarred the land, and whirled afar The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; It minsled rick and roof and tree. And liTte a besom swept the sea. And churned the wateis into yeast. From Saint Paul s Light to Edward's Isle A thousand craft it smote Hniain ; And some against it s'rove the while. And more to make a port were fain : The mackerel-gulls flew screaming jnst, And the stick that bent to the noonday blast Was split by the sundown hurricane. O, what can live on the open sea, Or moored in port the gale outride? The very craft that at anchor be Ar& dragyed along by tlie swollen tide! The great storm-wave'came rolling west, And tossed the vessels on its crest : The ancient bounds its might defied ! The ebb to check it had no power ; The surf ran up to an untold height ; It rose, nor yielded, liour by hour, A night and day, a day and night ; Far up the seething shores it cast The wreck of hull and spar and mast. The strangled crews, — a wof ul sight ! There were twenty and more of Breton sail Fast anchored on one mooring-grouud ; Each lay within his neighbors had, When the thick of the tempest closed them round : All sank at once in the gaping sea, — Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, Tne foundered hulks, and the seamen drowned. On reef and bar our schooners drove Before the wind, before the swell ; By the steep sand-cliffs their ribs were stove, — Long, long their crews the tale shall tell ! Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecks threescore; Of the Province sail two hundred more Were stranded in that tempest fell. The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town That Sabbath night ran^ soft and clear ; The sailors' children laid them down,— Dear Lord! their sweet prayers couldst thou hear ';:' 'T is said that gently blew the winds ; The good wives, through the seaward blinds, Looked down the bay and had no fear. New England ! New Ensland 1 Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; The twin capes j'carn for their return Who never shall be thither borne ; Their orphans whisper as they meet ; The homes are dark in many a street, And women move in weeds forlorn. And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear ? Ah, no : Though widows cheeks are pale, The lads siiall say : " Another year, And we shall be of age to sail: " And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride. Though tears drop fast for them who died When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord's- Day gale. " The island becnme as Gaelic as the most Gaelic part of Scotland. It continues so to this day. W^hat of Cape Breton is not Highland Scottisli is Acadian French The old allies of the IMiddle Ages live together in ; mity on this fair outpost of the new world. The Highland immigrnnts had a hard time of it for many a long day. Thc3' were poor, unskilled in agriculture, and utterly ignorant of woodcraft or forest life. But their ???orr(,;e was superb. Like men they set the stout heart to the stac brae. Hardy, patient, frugal. God-fearing, they endured hardships th t •would have killed ordinary settlers. Gradually and painfully they learned to wield. the axe, and to hold the plough instead of the clumsy hoe and spade of their native isles. The lakes and streams, the Bras d'Or and the rough Atlantic, gave generous Lsupplies of food. Their log-huts in the green woods were their own And their children haTe exchanged the primitive shanty for comfortable frame houses, and the few sheep their fathers owned for fat flocks and hardy horses that they rear for the Svdney and iS^ewfoundland markets. Take up your summer quarters on the Gilt of Canso, or at St. Peter's, Baddcck, Wliycocomagh, Sydney, Louisbourg, Mar- garee, or any other local centre, and though you maj- not get ' all the comforts of the Sautmarke':,' you will get what is better. The more Gaelic you can speak the less money jou need to have iu your purse " (Rev. George M. (Sra-xt.) PEmCE EDWAED ISLAND. Prince Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and 9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable waters. The extreme length is 130 M.; the extreme breadth, 34 M.; and the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- modious and accessible. The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, or 67 town- ships and 3 royalties. It has 108,891 inhabitants, of whom 47,115 are Cath- olics, 33,835 are Presbyterians, 13,485 Methodists, and 7,205 Episcopalians. The majority of the people are of Scottish origin, and there are 300-400 Micmac Indians. The local government is conducted by the Executive Council (9 members) and the House of Assembly (30 members), and the political parties which form about the petty questions of the island dis- play a partisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are not seen even in the United States. The Province is provided with gov- ernor and cabinet, supreme and vice-admiralt}' courts, and a public domain, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the fisheries are cai'ried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives con- siderable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through quiet rural scenery, broken ever}-- few miles by the blue expanses of the broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and eggs. It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1G08, and received from him the name of Visit St. Jean. The whole country was then covered with stately for- PEINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 173 ests, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmac Indians, who called it EiJayguit ("Anchored on the Wave"). It was included in the broad domain of Acadia, over Avhich France and England waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries after Cabot's voyage. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Isle St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 172'8 there Avere 60 French fam- ilies here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- struggles with the Anglo-American armies, the Province of Quebec drew large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at Port la Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by Haliburton that the island was captured by the New-Englanders in 1745, but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail fi'om Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear whether or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- itants in 1758. In that year Lord Eollo took possession of it, according to the capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military force. In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- tainebleau, and became a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. It was surveyed in 1764-6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish gentlemen, who were to pay quitrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans captured the capital, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were stationed there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from the old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island for 70 years, and are being slowly settled by the purchase of the lands by the government. Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the Province. 174 Route 4^. CAPE TRAVERSE. 43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown. — The Northumberland Strait. St. John to Shediac, see Routes 14 and 16. It is probable that steamers of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company- will leave Shediac (Point du Chene) every day during the summer season, on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The fare from Shediac to Summerside is $1.50 ; and from Summerside to Charlottetown, $ 1.50. The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 M. Soon after leaving the wharf at Point du Chene the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, and enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of E., and the first point of the island to come into sight is Cape Egmont, with its lines of low sandstone cliffs. The traveller now sees the significance of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, Epayguit, signifying "Anchored on the Wave." After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bedeque, or Halifax, Bay, and runs in toward the low shores on the N. E. After pass- ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Summerside, with the estuary of the Dunk River on the r. Summerside, see page 179. Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., and, after running by Salutation Puint, enters the" Northumberland Strait. The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of the strait, the mails are carried across by ice-boats in winter, and passen- gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- dei-lies the strait at this point. It is 20 M. from Cape Traverse to St. Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- paud, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N., with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- ing on the E. " Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliffs of Blockhouse and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River running northward, the Hillsborough River eastwardly, and the Elliot to the westward, surround the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he will feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the first time, should a setting sun gild the horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- quately represent." Charlottetown, see page 175. CHARLOTTETOWN. RoiUe 44. 175 44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island. To Charlottetown. The steamships of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company leave Pictou for Charlotteto^\Ti every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, on arrival of morning train from Halifax. Fare, $ 2. The distance is a little over 50 M. Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer approaches Pictou Island, a hilly and well-wooded land 4 M. long, with a lighthouse and some farms. On the W. is Caribou Island, consisting of several islets united by sand-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are pleasant views of the receding highlands of Nova Scotia; and the vessel moves easily through the quiet waters of the Northumberland Strait. "Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and none of that remote friendlessness which its appearance on the map con- veys to one; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, we are informed." After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and entei's the harbor of Char- lottetown. Pictou to Georgetown. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's steamships leave Pictou for Georgetown ever}^ Tuesday and Friday; leaving Georgetown for Pictou on the same days. Fare from port to port, $ 2. The distance is nearly 70 M. The chief incidents of this shoi-t voyage ai'e the views of Pictou Island; the approach to Cape Bear, the S. E. point of P. E. Island, backed by hills 200 ft. high ; and the ascent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- tween Boughton and Panmure Islands.* Georgetown, see page ISl. 45. Charlottetown. Arrival. — The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (1.) and Governor's Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay for about 6 M. It then passes between Blockhouse Point (on the 1., M'ith a lighthouse) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7-10 fathoms of water. Powerful cur- rents are formed here by the tides of the Hillsborough, York, and EUiot Rivers (or East, North, and West Rivers), which empty into this basin. Hotels. — St. Lawrence Hotel, Water St. ; Revere House, near the steamboat wharf ; Rankin House. The hotels of Charlottetown are only boarding-houses of average grade, and will hardly satisfy American gentlemen. Attempts are being made to erect a large summer-hotel here, though there seems to be but little to wari'ant such an enterprise. Steanisliips. — The Worcester or the Carroll leaves Charlottetown every Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Halifax, and Boston. Fares to Halifax, saloon state-room, ^6; cabin state-room, $5; cabin, $4; Halifax to Boston, S9, ^7.50, 176 Roicte 45. CHARLOTTETOWN. and $ 5.50. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's vessels St. Lawrence and Princess of Wales run between Charlottetown, Shediac, and Pictou (see Routes 43 and 44). The Heathtr Belle plies about the bay and up the Hillsborough River, making also trips to Crapaud and OrweU. She runs up the Hillsborough River to Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday; to Crapaud on Wednesday ; and to Orwell on AVednesday, Thursday and Friday (time-table of 1874). Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is situated on gently rising ground on the N. side of the Hillsborough River, and fronts on a good harbor. It has about 12,000 inhabitants, with 2 daily and 4 weekly newspapers, 4 banks, and 10 churches. The plan of the city is very regular, and consists of 6 streets, each 100 ft. wide, running E. and "W., intersecting 9 streets running from N". to S. There are 4 squares. The Colonial Building is the finest structure in the city. It stands on Queen's Square, at the head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- Scotia freestone (at a cost of S 85,000), The halls of the Legislative Coun- cil and House of Assembly ai-e on the second floor, and are handsomely furnished and adorned with portraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward Island. On the same floor is the Qolonial Library, containing a good col- lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics of Canada and the British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the rivers may be obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post Office is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. Just beyond is the Market House, a great wooden structure covered with shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, and offer but little to be desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. The extensive Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and occupies a modeiTi brick building. The Prince of Wales College and the Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- ernme7it House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the harbor. In 1748 the government of the island was vested in civil and military officers, whose residence was established at the W. entrance to the harbor of Port la Joie (Chai-lottetown), where they had a battery and a small garrison. It is said that the first French sailors who entered the inner harbor v. ere so pleased with its trauquil Icauty that thej' nan.ed it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of the city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British fiigates in 1746, but was ravaged by 200 Micmacs under the French Ensign Montesson. All the Engish found on the ghore were captured, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. In 1768 Morris and De.'^champs arrived here with a small colon}', and erected huts. They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which was soon estaLhsbed as the capi- tal of the island. In 1775 it v.as captured by two American war-vessels, which had been cruising in the Guif to carry otf the Quebec storeships. The sailors plundered the to^Tn, and led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but Washington hb- erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- parted ; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting for ENVIRONS' OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 46. 177 Bomefhing That the productive island, with its system of free schools, is ahout to enter upon a prosperous career, and that Oharlottetown is soon to become a place of great activity, no one who converses with the natives can doubt, and I think that even now no traveller will regret spending an hour or two there ; but it is necessary to say that the rosy inducements for tourists to spend the summer there exist only in the guide-books." Environs of Ckarlottetown. The Wesleyan College is on an eminence back of the city, and OTerlooks the harbor and the rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 students. St. Bunstan's College is a Catholic institution, which occupies the crest of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several pretty villas in the vicinity of Oharlottetown; and the roads are very good during dry weather. Some travellers have greatly admired the rural scener}'- of these suburban roads, but others have reported them as tame and uninter- esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of the whole island. Southport is a village opposite Oharlottetown, in a pretty situation on the S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is reached by a steam ferry-boat, which crosses every hour. 3 ]\I. from this place is the eminence called Tea Hill, whence a pleasing view of the parish and the bay may be ob- tained. A few miles beyond is the A^Uage of Pownal, at the head of Pownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 46. Oharlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. — The Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. This region is traversed by the Prince Edward Island Railway, a narrow-gauge road which has recently been built by the Canadian government. This line was opened late in 1S74. Trains run from Oharlottetown to Summerside in 5 hrs. ; to Tignish in 10 hrs. Stations. — Charlottetown to St. Dunstan-s, 2 ; Cemeterv. 4 ; Royalty Junction 5: Winsloe, 6i: Milton, 10; Colville, IS^- : N. Wiltshire, 17; Hunter River, 21 Fredericton. 25 :' Elliotts, 27^ : Breadalbane, 29^ : County Lane, 32 ; Freetown, 35^ Blueshank, 39; Kensington,' 41 ; New Annan^ 42; Summerside, 49; Miscouche 54; Wellington. 61; Richmond, 65i: Northam , 6S ; Port Hill, 71; EUerslie, 72i Conwav, 77: Portase, 80: Brae, 86^, O'Learv, 89: Bloomfipld, 95; Elmsdale, 100 Alberton, 104 ; Montrose, 108 : De Blois, 112J; Tignish, 117. After leaving the commodious station-building, in the E. part of Ohar- lottetown, the train sweeps around the city, turning to the N. from the bank of the Hillsborough Elver. The suburban villas are soon passed, and the line traverses a level country to Royalty Junction, where the tracks to Souris and Georgetown (see Route 47) diverge to the N. E. The train now enters the main line, and runs W. through a fertile farming country, — "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstone would have delighted." The hamlets are small and the dwellings are ver}^ plain, but it is expected that the stations of the new railway will become the nuclei of future villages. The ti'ain soon crosses the head-waters of the York River, and reaches N. Wiltshii^e, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 4 M. beyond this point is the station of Hunter Eiver, whence a much- 8* L 1 78 Route 46. RUSTICO. travelled road leads to the N. to New Glasgow and Eustico, locally famous for pleasant marine scenery. Eustico is a quiet marine settlement, with two churches and a bank, and about 300 inhabitants. It is near Grand Eustico Harbor, and is one of the chief fishing stations of the N. shore. The original settlers were Acadians (in the year 1710), many of whose descendants remain in the township, and are peaceful and unprogressive citizens. The Ocean House (40 guests) is a small summer hotel near the sand-hills of the beach; and the facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and gunning are said to be ex- cellent. The great fleets of the Gulf fishermen are sometimes seen off these shores. There is a pleasant drive up the Hunter Eiver to Neio Glas- gow (Eockem's inn), which was settled by men of Glasgow, under Alex- ander Cormack, the Newfoundland explorer, in 1829. The Hunter Eiver aifords good trouting. Grand Eustico Harbor is rendered unsafe by shifting bars of sand, and it was off this port that the Government steamer Rose was lost. On the coast to the N. W. are the hamlets of N. Eustico and Cavendish, the lat- ter of which is a Presbyterian farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. Kensington station is about 41 M. from Charlottetown, and is near the petty hamlet of the same name. To the N. E. is Grenville Harbor, with the estu- aries of three rivers, the chief of which is the Stanley. There are several marithue hamlets on these shores, and on the W. is New London, a neat Scottish settlement with two churches. A road also leads N. W. from Kensington to Princetown, a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the peninsula between Eichmond Bay, ]March Water, and the Darnlej' Basin, This town was laid out (in 1766) with broad streets and squares, and was intended for the metropolis of the N. coast, but the expectations of the government were never realized, and " the ploughshare still turns up the sod, where it was intended the busy thoroughfare should be." Malpeque Harbor is the finest and safest on the N. shore of Prince Edward Island. A few miles E. are the lofty sandstone cliff's of Cape Tryon, near New Lon- don harbor. Princetown fronts on Richmond Bay, a capacious haven which runs in to the S. W. for 10 M., and contains 7 islands. Travellers have praised the beauty of the road from Princetown to Port Hill, which affords manj' pleasant views over the bay. Beyond Kensington the train runs S. W. across the rural plains of St. David's Parish, and passes out on the isthmus between Eichmond Bay and Bedeque Bay, where the island is only 3-4 M. wide. 9 M. from Kensing- ton it reaches Summerside. Summerside (two inns) is situated on the N. side of Bedeque Harbor, and is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, 5 schools, 2 weekly newspapers, and 2 banks. It is the port whence most of the products of the W. part of the island are sent out, and has grown rapidly of late years. The chief exports in 1882 were 600,000 bushels of oats, 110,000 bushels of SUMMERSIDE. Route 46. 179 potatoes, 10,300 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,337 barrels of the famous Bedeque oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly small wooden buildings. Considerable shipbuilding is done here. The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, and is patronized by American tourists. There are accommodations for fishing and bathing, and a steam ferry-boat plies between the island and the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores and the Strait of Northumberland. "This little seaport is intended to be attractive, and it would give these travellers great pleasure to describe it if they could at all reiueiiibcr how it looks. But it is a place that, like some faces, makes no sort of iuiprcssion on the memory. Wc went ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the shipbuilding, and in the little oysters which the harbor yields ; but whether mc did take an interest or not has passed out of memory. A small, unpioturesque, wooden town, in the languor of a provincial summer; why should wc pretend an interest in it which we did not feel? It did not disturb our reposeful fnmie of mind, nor much interfere with our enjoy- ment of the day." (Warneh's' Baddeck.) On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- habitants, situated in a rich farming country. It enjoys the honor of being the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 2| M. from Summerside. 3 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural village of Miscouche, inhabited by French Acadians. Wellington (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand River, which flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about Cape Egmont are a few miles to the S. W. The line passes on to Port Hill, a prosperous shipbuilding village on Richmond Bay. Near this place is Lennox Island, which is reserved for the Micmac Indians, and is inhabited by about 150 persons of that tribe. Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, Avhich is composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward shores. The train runs N. W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish Inlet and the Percival and Enmore Rivers, and soon enters the North Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes near Brae., a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine hamlet of West Point, wliere a town has been laid out and preparations made for a commerce which does not come. The coast trends N. by E. 6 M. from West Point to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. Alberton (two inns) is one of the northern termini of the railway, and is a prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, with five churches and an 180 Route 47. TIGNISH. American consular agency. It is situated on Cascumpeci harbor, and is engaged in shipbuildiDg and the fisheries. The American fishing-schooners often take relugc in tliis liarbor. The neighboring rural districts are fer- tile and thickly populated, and produce large quantities of oats and pota- toes. This town was the birthplace of the Gordons, the heroic mission- aries at Kromanga, one of whom was martyred in 1861, the other in 1&72. S. of Albcrton is Holland Bay, which was named in honor of him- self by Major Holhmd, the English surveyor of the island; and 6-8 M. N. is Cape K 11 dare. Tignish {Jiyan's Hotel) is the extreme northern point reached by the railway, and is 117 M. from Charlottetown. It has about 200 inhabitants, and is one of the most important fishing-stations on the island. The in- habitants are mostly French and Scotch, and support a Catholic church and convent. There are several other French villages in this vicinity, concerning which the historian of the island says: "They are all old set- tlements. The nationality of the people has kept them together, until their farms are subdivided into small portions, and their dwellings are numerous and close together. Few are skilful farmers. Many prefer to obtain a living by fishing rather than farming. They are simple and in- offensive in their manners; quiet and uncomplaiifmg, and easily satisfied. The peculiarities of their race are not yet extinct; and under generous treatment and superior training, the national enterprise and energy, polite- ness and refinement, would gradually be restored." North Puint is about 8 M. N. of Tignish, and is reached by a sea-view- ing road among tlic sand-dunes. It has u lighthouse, which sustains a powerful light, and is an important point in the navigation of the Gulf. 47. Charlottetown to Georgetown. By the Prince Edward Island Railway. StatioiiH. — Charlottetown; lloyalty Junction, 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22; Car- digan, 40 ; Georgetown , 46. Beyond Royalty Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and follows the course of the IlilJsborougli River, though generally at some distance from the shore. The banks of this stream are the most favored part of that prosperous land of which Dr. Cuyler says: "It is one rich, rolling, arable farm, from Cape East clear up to Cape North." As early as 1758 there were 2,000 French colonists about this river. The Hillsborough is 30 M. long, and the tide ascends for 20 M. Much produce is shifjped from these shores during the autumnal months. About 8 M. beyond the Junction the line crosses French Fort Creek, on whose banks the French troops erected a fortification to protect the short portage (1^ M.) across the island, from the river to Tracadie Harbor. Here the military domination was surren- 1 Cascumpec, an Indian word, meaning " Flowing through Sand." GEORGETOWN . Eottte 47. 181 dered to the British expeditionary forces. To the N. W. are the Gaelic villages of Covehead and Tracadie, now over a century old; near which is the sandy l;i,c;oon of Tracadio Harbor. At the place called Scotch Fort the French built the first church on the islaml, and in this vicinity fho earliest Brilish settlers located. From the French Catholic church on the lofty hill at St. Andrews, a few miles to the N. E., a beautiful view is obtained over a rich rural country. Mount Stewart (two inns) is a prosperous little shipbuildinp; village, whence the steamer Jicalher Belle nuis to Charlottetown. The train crosses the river at this point, and at Mount Stewart Junction it turns to the S. E., while the Souris Railway diverges to the N. E. The country which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the head-waters of the Morrell and Fisquid Rivers. There are scvenil small hikes in this region, and forests are seen on either hand. At C(ir(Ii(/an{?.ma\\ inn) tho line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. Georgetown {Commercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on tho long peninsida between the Cardigan and Brudenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the best on the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. The chief business of the town is in tho exportation of produce, and ship- building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid out, but its growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this port, Pictou, and the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 40). Tiie harbor is reached by ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on Panmure Head and St. Andrew's Point. Monfar/ue Bridge (Montaguo House) is reached from Georgetown by a ferry of C M. and 11 M. of stnging. It has 350 inhabitants and several mills. To tho S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is Murray Harbor^ on which there are several Scottish villages. From Capo Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. ' No land can boast more rich supply, Tliiit c"or was found ))CMi('al.h tlic sky ; No i)iiror strciiins liavi; over llowcnl, Since llcavon tliat bountcouH gift bestowed. And luM-rini!;, like a niipihty liost, And cod and niackorel, crowd the coast." " In this fine island, lonp nop;lcctod, Much, it in thoucjht, nii,t!;iifc bo eflccted By industry and ap|)lication, — Sources of wealth with every nation." 182 Route 48. ST. PETER'S. 48. Charlottetowii to Souris. By the Prince Edward Tnland RjiHway. HtntUtnu. — Charlottetown ; Royalty Junction, M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Mor- rell,.'JO; St. Petor'n, aSi ; ILmriony, 50 ; SouriH, 00^. Cliarlotfotown to Mount Stowiirt, see page 181. At Mount Slewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon reaches Morrell, a fishing-station on the Morrell River, near St. Peter's Bay. St. Peter's (Prairie I/otd) was from the first the most important port on the N. shore of the island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. About the year 1750 the French government endeavored to restrict the fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the ports except St. Peter's and Tracadie. The village is now quite small, though the salmon-fishery is valuable. St. Peter's Bay runs 7 M. into the land, but it is of little use, since there is only 5 ft. of water on its sandy bar. From this inlet to East Point the shore is unbroken, and is formed of a line of red sandstone cliffs, 33 M. long. " Tho fioa-trout fiHliin^^, in the bays and harborH of Prince Edward THland, espe- cially in .fnrii:, wlicri Ux; fmli firKfc ruKli in from tlii! f:;ulf, iw really nia^nificent. They avcra^^e from .'i to 5 jioundH (rach. I found the best fmliitif^ at Kt. J'eter'ri liay, on tlx! N. 8iil(! uf tlio iHland, alKnifc 28 M. from (Jliarlottotown. I tlicre killed in one morning IG front, wiiicli wcif^licd HO pr)undH. In tin; hayH and along tlie coasts of the island th(!y are tiiUcn with the Hcarlct fly, from a boat unrlor easy Hail, with a • m.-icken-l hrcezo,' and FoniotimcH a li(;avy ' (ground Hwell.' 'J"he lly HkipH from wave to v/ave at the; cud of .'iO yardw of line, jind there Hlionld be at leant 70 yarij? more on the reel. It iH fipl(^ndid Hport, an a Htroof? fiKh will iriake fsometimcH a long run, and give a good chaHe down the wind." (J'KULi;y.) Harmony stalion is near Rollo Bay, which was named in honor of Lord Rollo, who occupied the island with British troops in 1758. There is a small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of DunduR, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand River. Souris (three inns) is a village of Catholic IIi;:';lilnnders, pleasantly sitiiatcfl on the N. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by the Souris River. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- water. The shore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the produce of the adjacent (;ountry is shipped from Souris to the French Isle of St. Pierre (see page 185). There is a long sand}' beach on the W. of the village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled by the Acadians in 1748; and now contains about 500 inhabitants. The I'Jist Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souri.s, and includes the sea-shore hamlets of Red Point, I>ot!iw(!ll, East Point, North Lake, and Fairfield. Tlie Fast and North Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 130 ft. above the sea and is visible for 18 M. MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Route 49. 183 49. The Mag^daleii Islands. These remote islands are sonietinies visited, diirinsj; the sinunier, hy flshing-par- ties, who liud rave siu>rt in oatehiu.u; the wiiite sea-trout that a.bouiui in the vicinity. The acconniiodations for vi.sjtor-s are of the most primitive kiud, but many defects are atoned for by the liospitality of tlie people. The mail-steamer Alhrrt leaves Picton for (J(>orp;eto\vn (P. E. T.") and the IMajrdalea Islands every alternate ^^'e(lnesday. Slie also leaves Pietou for Port Hood (Capo Breton) every Monday evening, retm-uiug ou the following morning. (Time-lablo of 1874 ) Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, ^ 4.(i0 ; to Georgetown, 1 4.10 ; to the Magdalen Ishnids, iff S. Further partieulars may bo obtained by addressing James King, mail- contractor, Halifax. The Magdalen Islands are thirteen in number, and are situated at the entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from East Pohit {P. E. I.), 60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M. from Cape Ray (N. F.), and 150 M. from Gaspd. When they are lirst seen from the sea, they present the ap- pearance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer api)roach several of them are seen to be connected witli each other by double lines of sandy beaches, forming broad and quiet salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly Acadian fisliermen (speaking French only), devoted to the ])ursuit of the immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring waters. At certain seasons of the year the harbors and lagoons are fdled with hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- vincial. Seal-hunting is carried on here with much success, as extensive fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing myriads of seals. On one occasion over G, 000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to bo the best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their abundant returns in these regards the Magdalen Islands have received the fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the principal village, the custom-house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M. ; and the hills in the interior, 550 ft. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which opens on the S. of Pleasant Bay, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- dreils of vessels sometimes Aveather heavy storms in safety. 1 M. N. W. of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 fl. high), whence the bay and a great part of the islands may bo seen. Grindstone Island is 5-G M. N. of Amherst, and is comiected with it by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called Basque Harbor. It is 5 M. long, and has a central hill 650 ft. high, while on the W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone which the 184 Route 49. MAGDALEN ISLANDa Aoadians call Cap de Mmh. On the same sit.le is the thriving hamlet of Vi^tang du Nord. On the E., axicl containing 7 square miles, is Alright Island, terminated by the grayish-white olitl>i of Cape Ah'ight, over 400 ft. high. A sand-beach runs N. K. 10 M. ftx>m Grindstone to Wolf Island, » sandstone ivck | M. long; and another beach runs thence 9 M. tarther to the N. K. to Gtsm^ J^and^otk the Gmnd Lagoon* This island has another )ine of lofty clitic of sandstone. To- the E. is Ooj^n Island^ and 4 M. N. is Br^oti Idctndr beyond which are the Hiwl Isles* Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, oif the entrance to Pleasant Uay, and is the most picturesqne of the givup. Kear the centre )» a hill 5S0 ft. high, visible ft>r 8* W., and ftxnn whose summit the Yfhole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wozulerfUl ditlst of red sandstone which line the shores of this island ai-e very pictui-esque in their effect, And reach a height of 400 ft. Deadman's Isl© is a ixigged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives it$ name flvm the ftnicied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid out for burial. While passing this rook, in 1S04, Tom Mwre wrote the poem which ck>ses: ** There lieth a wreck, ou the dismal shore Of eokl anU pitiless Labrudw, Where, uuUer the jhoou, uiK>ix »>ounts of inxst, F\»U mau.v a mariner's boaea are tossed. ♦'Yon shadowy bark hath been to thstt wreck, And the dim blue tixe that lights her deck I>oth play on as pale and Hvid a erew As ever yet drauk the church^' aid dew. To l>eadn>aB's Isle in the eye of the blast* To Deadmau's Isle she spt-tds her fast ; By skeletv>n shapes her sails are furled. And the haud that steers is not of thU world." The Bird Isles ai^e two bare rocks of red sandstone, | M. apart, the chief of which is known as Gannet Rock, and is 1,300 tl. long and 100-140 ft. high, linei.1 with vertical clifts. These isles are haunted by immense nunt- bers of sea-biixls, gannets^ guillemots, putiins, ki^iwakes„ and razor-billed auks. '' No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at onc« fbr the tiumber and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- tities of eggs are carried theuco by the islanders, but to a less extent than fbrmerly. This great ttaturftt curiosity ^as visited ia 1632 by the Jesuits (wbo catted the rwk$ tes Colombiers), \>y Heriot iu li>07, by Audubou, aud iu ISbt* oy Ih". Bryan. The Pounttiou has ivceutly ei-e*.>tt\l a lighthouse hciv at great expeuse, aud to the imuiiueut peiil of tha>ie eogaj4\H.l iu the work, siuce there is uo laudiug-place, awd iu breeay weather the surfdt»shes violently agniust the cUtfs all arouud. Tlxe tower bears a fixed white light of the first class, which is visible for 21 M. Charlevoix visite<.l these islands iu 1720, aud woadci\xl how, " in such a Multitude ©if Nests, everv Bii\l iiamtxliately fiuds her owu. We fired a Guu, which gave the Alarm thro- all this flying Commonwealth, and theiv was formed above the two Islands, a thick Cloud of these Bix-ds, which was at least two or ttiree Leagues arouud '' The Magdalen Islands were visited by Cartier in 1534, but the first permanent sta- tioa was founded hei-e in ItR^S by a company of Uoutleur marinei-s, to whom the islands weiv (.-once^-led by the Company of New France In IT'iO the Puchcss of Orleans gitmted them to the Count de S^t. Pierre. In 1763 they were inhabited by 10 Acadiau ^miliets, aud in ll'$l a Bostoxuan named igtridley tbuudiid ou Amherst ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. Route 50. 185 Island an establishment for trading and for the seal and walrus fisheries. During the Re\'olution American jjrivateers visited the islands, and destroyed everything accessible. Gridley returned after the war, but the walrus soon became extinct, and the islanders turned their attention to the cod and herring fisheries. When Admiral Coffin received his grant there were 100 families here ; in 1831 there were 1,000 inhabitants; and the present population is about 3,500. In the mean time three colonies have been founded and i;opulated from these islands, on Labrador and the N. shore. The Lord's-Day Gale (see page 170) wrought sad havoc among the fleets in these waters. Tradition tells that when Capt. CofiBn was conveying Governor-General Lord Dor- chester to Canada in his frigate, a furious storm arose in the Gulf, and the skilful mariner saved his vessel by gaining shelter under the lee of these islands. Dorches- ter, grateful for his preservation, secured for the captain the grant of the islands "in free and common soccage,"' with the rights of building roads and fortifications reserved to the Crown. The grantee was a native of Boston and a benefactor of Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now belongs to his nephew, Admiral Coffin, of Bath, and is an entailed estate of the family. In 1873, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose juris- diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- prietor's claim, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and the Mingan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 50. St. Pierre and Miquelon. The Angle-French Steamship Company dispatches the steamer Geors:e Shattuck from Halifax to Sydney and St. Pierre every alternate Saturday during the season of navigation. She leaves St. Pierre every alternate Friday. The voyage to Sydney has recently been made by way of St. Peter's Canal and the Bras d-Or, but it "is not likely that that route will be adopted in preference to the outside course. Fares from Halifax to Sydney, cabin, .§ 10, steerage, SG ; to St. Pierre, cabin, $15, steerage, .§8; Sydney to St. Pierre, cabin, S9, steerage, .$6. The price of meals is included in the cabin-fares. Further information may be obtained by ad- dressing Joseph S. Belcher, Boak's Wharf, Halifax. St. Pierre may also be visited by the Western Coastal steamer from St John's, N. F. (see Route 60). There are several French cafes and pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which the traveller can find indiS'erent accommodations. The best of these is that at which the telegraph-operators stop. On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Galantry Head, on which is a red-and-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. Within the harbor are two fixed lights, one white and one red, which are visible for 6 M. ; and the Isle aux Chiens contains a scattered fishing-village. The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M. from Point ]\Iav, on tlie New- foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of rugged porphyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of a striking and singular character. Back of the village is the hill of Cal- vaire, surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. W., beyond Ravenel Bay, is the lakelet called D Etang du Savoyard. The town is compactly built on the harbor at the E. of the island, and most of its houses are of stone. It is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and of the Franco-American cable, which inins E. to Brest and S. W. to Dux- bury, in Massachusetts. The only good house in the town is that of the Governor; and the Cath- 186 Route 50. ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. olic church and convent rise prominently over the low houses of the fisher- men. Near the sea is a battery of ancient guns, which are used only for warning in season of fogs. The buildings are nearlj" all of wood, and in- clude many shops, where every variety of goods may be obtained. The merchants are connected with French and American firms. There are numerous cabarets, or drinking-saloons ; and the auberges, or small taverns, are thoroughly French. The citizens are famed for then* hospitality to properly accredited strangers; and the literary culture of the community is served by a diminutive weekly paper called La Feuille Officielle, printed on a sheet of foolscap, and containing its serial Parisian feuilleton. The street of St. Pierre presents a very interesting sight during the spring and fall. It is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, arrayed in the quaint costumes of their native shores, — Normans, Bretons, Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders, — all active and alert; while the implements of the fisheries are seen on every side. The envii'ons of the town are rocky and utterly unproductive, so that the provisions used here are imported from the Provinces. The resident population is 3,187 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the government is conducted by a Commandant, a Police Magistrate, Doctor, Apostolic Prefect, and Engineer, with a few artillerists and gens-d'armes. There is usually one or more French frigates in the harbor, looking after the vast fisheries which employ 15,000 sailors of France, and return 30,000,000 francs' worth of fish. St. Pierre is the chief rendezvous of the French fishermen, and immen.se fleets are sometimes gathered here. Over 1,000 sail of square-rigged vessels from France are engaged in these fisheries, and on the 29tli of June, 1874, the roadstead near the island contained 350 sail of square-rigged vessels and 300 fore-and-aft vessels. They are here furnished with supplies, which are drawn from the adjacent Provinces, and in return leave many of the luxuries of Old France. It is claimed that the brandy of St. Pierre is the best in America. The fishermen leave their fish here to be cured, and from this point they are sent S. to the United States and the West Indies. Little Miquelon Island, or Langley Island, lies 3 M. N. W. of St. Pierre, and is about 24 M. around. It is joined to Great Miquelon Island by a long and narrow sandy isthmus. The latter island is 12 M. long, and looks out on Fortune Bay. Near its N. end are the singular hills known as Mt. Chapeau and Mt. Cal- vaire. On this island, during the summer of 1874, was wrecked H. B. M. frigate Niobe, the brave ship that trained her guns on Santiago de Cuba, and prevented a total massacre of the Virginius prisoners. St. Pierre was captured by a British fleet in 1793, and all its inhabitants, 1,502 in number, were carried away to Halifax, whence they were soon afterwards sent to France. In 1796 a French Republican fleet under Admiral Richery visited the de- serted island, and completely destroyed its buildings and wharves. It was, how- ever, restored to France in 1814, together with her ancient privileges in these waters. "All the island is only a great laboratory for the preparation, curing, and exportation of codfish. For the rest, not a tree, not a bush, above 25 centi- metres." NEWFOUNDLAND Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the Strait of Belle Isle, and on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From N. to S. it is 350 M. long, and the average breadth is 130 M., giving an estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold, and is indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and cop- per are being worked with much success, an"d there are large undeveloped deposits of coal on the W coa^t. " Up go the surges on the coast of Newfoundland, and down again into the sea. The huge island .... stands, with its sheer, beetling cliffs, out of the ocean, a mon- strous mass of rock and gi-avel, almost without soil, like a strange thing from the bottom of the great deep, lifted up suddenly into sunshine and storm, but belong- ing to the watery darkness out of which it lias been reared. The eye accustomed to richer and softer scenes finds something of a strange and almost startling beauty in its bold, hard outlines, cut out on every side against the sky Inland sur- rounded by a fringe of small forests on the coasts, is a vast wilderness of moss, and rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high. These little trees are so close and si iff and flat-topped that one can almost walk on them. Of course they are very hard things to make way through and among. .... In March or April almost all the men go out in fleets to meet the ice that floats down from the northern regions and to kill the seals that come down on it. In early summer a third part or a half of all the people go, by families, in their schooners, to the coast of Labrador, and spend the summer fishing there ; and in the winter, half of them are living iu the woods, in tilts, to have their fuel near them. At home or abroad, during the sea- son, the men are on the water for seals or cod. The women sow, and plant, and tend the little gardens, and dry the fish; in short, they do the land-work, and are the better for it." (R. T. S. Lowell.) Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island are thus quaintly set forth by Whitbourne {anno 1622) : " Neither are there any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wormes that ever were knowne to hurt any man in that country, but only a very little nim- ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies seem to have a great power and authority upon all loytering and idle peo- ple that come to the Newfoundland." Instances have been known where the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitudes that fatal results have followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored regions, studded with large lakes and mountain-ranges. Through these solitudes roam countless thousands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- mac hunters. Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, but they merely observed the coast and made no further explorations. 188 Route 51. NEWFOUNDLAND. There is good reason for supposing that it was frequented by Breton and Norman fishermen during the fourteenth century. In 1497 the island was formally discovered by John Cabot, who was voyaging under the patron- age of Henry VII. of England. The explorations of Cortereal (1501), Ve- razzano (1524), and Cartier (1534), all touched here, and great fishing- fleets began to visit the surrounding seas. . Sir Humphrey Gilbert took possession of Newfoundland in the name of England, in 1583, making this the most ancient colony of the British Empire. The settlements of Guy, Whitbourne, Calvert, and others were soon established on the coast. The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier part of the 17th century. Peter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the coast, claiming that he was "master of the seas," and levying heavy taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, the pirates captured 180 pieces of ordnance, 1,080 fishermen, and large fleets of vessels. Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. shores. By the Treaty of Utrecht the French received permission to catch and cure fish along the W. coast (see Route 61). In 1728 Newfoundland was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to great extremity by the Non-Intercourse Act passed by the American Con- gress in 1776 and again in 1812-14. In 1817 there were 80,000 inhab- itants, and 800 vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was valued at $ 10,000,000 a year. In 1832 the first Legislative Assembly was convened; in 1838 a geological survey was made; and in 1858 the Atlan- tic telegraph-cable was landed on these shores. Newfoundland has re- fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is stiU governed directl}' by the British Crown. 51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland. The ocean steamships between Halifax and Liverpool call at St John's fortnightly. Their course after leaTing Halifax is directly to the N. E. across the open sea, giving Cape Race a wide berth. The fare on these vessels is higher than it is on the Virgo, and the accommodations are superior ; but the voyager does not get the interesting views of the Canso and Cape-Breton shores. Cromwell-Line steamships run fortnightly between New York, Halifax, and St. John's. The fare is S 15 or S5. They are well arranged for passenger-traffic. Also, steamships of the Allan Line. Halifax to Sydney, see page 148. After leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of E., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim blue hills of St. Pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 189 sinks below the horizon; but generally the bold mountain-promontory of Cape Chapeau Rouge is the first recognizable shore. Then the deep bight of Placentia Bay opens away on the N. After rounding Cape Race (see page 199), the steamship stretches away up the Strait Shore past a line of fishing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky capes. " When the mists dispersed, the rocky shores of Newfoundland were close upon our left, — lofty cliffs, red and gray , terribly beaten by the waves of the broad ocean. We amused ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and headlands and rugged islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and searching out the beauty timidly reposing among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to the voyager from the States, is a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with the smallest amount of adornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion of verdure, spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and fir. The glory of this hard, region is its coast; a wonderful perplexity of fiords, bays and creeks, islands, peninsulas and cajtes, endlessly picturesque, and very often magnifi- cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, shattered, and hollowed out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and the fury of the deep-sea billows. ... The brooks that flow from the highlands, and fall over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would be counted features of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jewelry on the hem of the landscape." (Noble.) " The first view of the harbor of St. John''s is very striking. Lofty precipitous cliffs, of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomerate, range along the coast, with deep water close at their feet. Their beds plunge from a height of 400-700 ft., at an angle of 70°, right into the sea, where they are ceaselessly dashed against by the unbroken Bwell of the Atlantic waves. " (Jukes . ) 52. St. John's, Newfoundland. Arrival from the Sea. — " The harbor of St. John's is certainly one of the most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore We were moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stern headlands receding in the south, and starting out to view in the north, when we passed Cape Spear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthouse and a signal-staff, upon which was floating the meteor flag of England, and at once found ourselves abreast the bay in front of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was in sight, except another flag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right towards the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness, and tied itself into a very Gordian knot, we cut across, curious to behold when and where the rugged adamant was going to spHt and let us through. At length it opened, and we looked through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass, with all the lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, brown cliffs rose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, and before us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. We were in the harbor, and before St. John's." (Noble.) Hotels. — The Union House, 379 Water St. (nearly 1 M. from the Custom House), is the best; Atlantic House, Water St. There are also two or three boarding- houses, which are preferable to the hotels, if a long stay is to be made. Mrs. Simms's, 353 Water St. , is one of the best of these ; and Knight's Home, 173 Water St., is tolerable. The accommodations for visitors to St. John's are not such as might be desired or expected in a city of so much importance. Carriages may be engaged at the stands ou Water St. (near the Post-Office). The rate per hour is 80c. Amusements, generally of merely local interest, are prepared in Temper- ance Hall or the Avalon (Victoria) Rink. Boat-racing is frequently carried on at Quiddy-Viddy Pond. Cricket-matches are also played on the outskirts of the city. Post-Office, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraph., New York, New- foundlaud, and London Co., at the Market House. 190 Route 62, ST. JOHN'S. Mail-waffons leave St. John's for Portugal Cove, daily ; to Bay Bulla and Fcrryland, weekly ; to Salmonier and Placentia, on the day of arrival of the Hali- fax iTiuil. Itailroatl to jjoints on Conception B;iy. StcamKhips. — For IJay-de-Verds, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavista, Kind's Cove, Grccnppond, Fo^o, TwillinRate, Exploits Island, Little Bay Ipland, Tilt Cove, Bott's Cove, Nipptir's Ilarbor, and tlio Labrador coa«t ; to Fcrryland, Kenewse, Trepasscy, Bnrin, Rt. Lawrence, Grand B;i,nk, St. Picirre, Ilarhnr Briton, Onnltois, Great Jcrvoif), Btirf^oo, Littlo 15.'i,y (La Poilc), llnsn Blanche Channel, and Sydney. Fares (nneals inclnd('d) to Bay-ilo-Verds or Fcrryland, 1 ) s. ; Trinity or Placentiii,, 20 s. ; Catalina or Burin, 20 s. ; Fo^^o or St. Pierre, 32 s. Gd.; Tilt Cove, 40 s.; Ro.se Blanche, 50 s. ; Sydney, 70s. These steamships to the Northern and Western out- ports leave about every ten days, and connect with the Jlercidea for Lnbnidor. The Vrtle.Ua and Pofino run from St. John's to Picfou and Montreal every fort- night, in summer. The Cromwell Lino runs fortniuihtly steamships from St. John's to II'ilifMX and New York. The Allan-Line ste;unships run from Baltimore or Hali- fax to St. John's fortnightly ; and thence continue on to Liverpool. St. John's, the capital of the Province of Newfoundland, is situated in latitude AT 33' G" N., and longitude 52" 44' 1" W., and i.s built on the slope of a long hill which rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- bor. At the time of tlio census of 1669 there were 22,555 inhabitants in the city (there are now over 35,000): but the population, owing to the peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to be in- creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the citizens arc connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large fleets are de.'^patclicd from the port throughout the season. Their return, or the arrival of the scaling-steamers, witli their great crews, brings new life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general "rows" as re- quire the attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are all with the sea, from which are drawn its revenues, and over which pass the fleets which bring in provisions from tlic I'rovinces and States to the S. W. The manufactures of St. John's arc insignificant, and consist, for the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all the other ports of Newfoundland except St. John's); and one firm alone has a trade amounting to $12,000,000 a year. For about one month, during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded with the people from the N. and W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests are served by tlircc banks and a chamber of commerce; and the literary standard of society is maintained by the St.' John's Athenaeum and the Catholic Institute. The city is supplied Avith gas, and water is brought in from a lake 4^ M. distant, by works which cost $ 300,000. " In trying to describe St. John's, there is some didlculty in applying fi" adjeo- tive to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with words which at once f^ive their predominant characteristic; London the richest, Piu-is the gayest, St. Pctersburf; the coldest. In one respect the (diief town of New- foundland lijis, 1 beli(!ve, no rival ; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern capitnls. Round a Rreat part of the ha.rbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there la ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 191 not much of the former to depend upon The town is ii-regular and dirty, built chiefly of wood, the dampness of the chmato rendering stone unsuitable." (Eliot WARBirRTON.) The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the water is always smooth. Here ma}' genei-ally be seen two or three British and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, where immense quantities of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. On the S. shore are several wharves right under the clifiTs, and also a float- ing dock Avhich takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive ridge which .lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- est point is but 660 ft. wide. On either side rise precipitous walls of sand- stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an altitude of 520 ft, and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft. high. Vessels coming m from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows until close upon it, and steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the entrance were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was closed by a chain drawn aci-oss the Narrows, but the batteries are now in a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are mostly low and uiipainted wooden buildings, crowding out on the side- walks, and the general appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses far beneath their station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main business thoroughfare, and follows the cin-vesof the harbor- shoi'e for about Iji M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which supply " fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household I'e- quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops and liquor-saloons. In the N. part is the Custom House, and near the cen- tre is the spacious building of the Markct-llall and the Post-Odice. To the S., Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which crosses the head of the harbor. Admonislicd by several disastrous fires, the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, and the stores, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the old burying-ground. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- nent British architect of the present era, and is in the early English Gothic 192 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds (for the missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral is but partly finished, but since 1880 much -work has been done upon it, largely by tishermen volunteers. The lofty proportions of the interior and the fine Gotliic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, together with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. The * Eoman Catholic Cathedral is the most stately building in New- foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view over the city and harbor and adjacent country, and looking through the Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect from the cathedral ten-ace on a moonlight night or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- dral is an immense stone structure, with twin towers on the front, and is surrounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, but the whole building is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- septs diverge to N. and S. The stone of which it is constructed was brought from Conception Bay and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the walls were raised by the free and voluntary labors of the people. Clustered about the cathedral are the Bishoj/s Palace, the convent and its schools, and St. Bonaventure's College (5 professors), where the missionaries are disciplined and the Catholic youth are taught in the higher branches of learning. Catholicism was founded on the island by Sir George Calvert (see Route 54) and by the Bi.shop of Quebec ; suffered persecution from 17G2 to 1784, when all priests were banished (though some returned in disguise) ; and afterwards gained the chief power as a consequence of Irish immigration, upon which the bishops became arro- gant and autocratic, and the Province was, practically, governed from Cathedral Hill. The great pile of religious buildings then erected on this commanding height cost over §500,000, and the present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, being collected by the priests, who board the arriving fishing- vessels and assess their people. The Irish Cathohcs form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Royal Newfoundland Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The Military Road runs along the crest of the heights, and affords pleasant views over the harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building, a substantial structure of gray stone, well retired from the carriage-way, and adorned with a massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied by the Royal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legislature meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the official man- sion of the governor of the Province (Sir Henry Fitzhardinge Berkeley Maxse, K. C M. G.)- It was built in 1828-30, and cost 3 240,000. The sun'ounding grounds are pleasantly diversified with groves, flower-beds, and walks, and are much visited by the aristocracy of St. John's, during the short but brilliant summer season. ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 193 Passing out through the poor suburb called " I\Iaggotty Cove," a walk of about 20 minutes leads to the top of * Signal Hill. " High above, oa our r. , a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Ci'ow's Nest), marks the site oif an old battery, while to the 1., sunk in a hollow, a black bog lies sheltered amid the bare bent's of mother earth, liere mainly comjiosed of dark red sandstones and conglomerate, passing down by regular gradations to the slate below. A sudden turn of the road reveals a deep solitary tarn, some 330 ft. above the sea, in which the guardian rocks retlect their purple fices, and whei'e the ripple of the muskrat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hideous- looking barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat- tery, from the parapets of which we look down, down, almost 500 ft. perpendicu- larly, right into ' the Narrows,' the strait or creek between the hills connecting the broad Atlantic with the oval harbor within. The great south-side hills, covered with luxuriant wild vegetation, and skeined with twisting torrents, loom across the strait so close that one might fancy it almost possible a stone could fly from the hand to the opposite shore. On our left the vast ocean, with nothing — not a rock — between us and Galway ; on our right, at the other end of the narrow neck of water directly beneath, the inner basin, expanding towai'ds the city, with t le back- ground of blue hills as a setting to the picture, broken only in their continuous out- line by the twin towers of the Catholic cathedral, ever thus from all points perform- ing their mission of conspicuit};. Right below ns, 400 ft. pei-pendicular, we lean over the grass porapct and look carefully down into the little battery guarding the narrowest part of the entering-strait, where, in the old wars, heav\' chains stretched from shore to shore The Narrows are full of fishing-boats returning with the silver spoils of the day glistening in the hold of the smacks, which, to the number of forty or fifty at a time, tack and fill like a fleet of white swans against the western evening breeze. Even as we look down on the decks, they come, and still they come, round the bluff point of Fort Amherst, from the bay outside." (Lt.-CoL. McCrea.) "After dinner we set off for Signal Hill, the grand observatory of the country, both by nature and art Little rills rattled by ; paths wound among rocky notches and grassj' chasms, and led out to dizzy ' over-looks ' and ' short-offs.' The town with its thousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre, and seemed to enjoy the spectacle of sails a d colors in the harbor We struck into a fine military road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers' families, goats and little gardens. From the observatory, situated on the craggv peninsula, both the rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us." (Noble.) " Britones et Normani anno n Christo nalo MCCCCCIIII. has terras invenere " ; and in August, 1527, 14 sail of Norman, Breton, and Portuguese vessels were shel- tered in the harbor of St. John's. In 1542 the Sicur de Roberval, Viceroy of New France, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quebec. He found 17 , vessels at anchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived Jacques Cartier and the Quebec colonists, discoui-aged, and returning to France. Roberval ordered him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned to France. A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Mari/ of Guilford, and the reverend Canon of St Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly function of a discoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage to Cardinal \Vol.>ited by the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a hue of burn- ing wrecks behind. in 1696 the town was so strongly gu.arded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier Nesmond, who attacked it with ten French men-of-war. The expedition of the daring Iberville was more successful, aud occupied the place. In November, 1704, 9 M 194 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. a fleet from Quel)ec landed a French and Indian force' at Placentia, whence they advanced about the middle of January. They were about 400 strong, and crossed the Peninsula of Avalon on snow-shoes. The town of Bay Bulls (Beboulle) surren- dered on their approach, and a long and painful midwinter march ensued, over the mountains and through the deep snows. The French militia of Placentia were sent in at dawn to surprise the fort at St. John's, but could not enter the works for lack of scaling-ladders ; so they contented themselTes with occupying the town and Quiddy Viddy. The fort was now besieged for 33 days, in a season of intense cold, when even the harbor was frozen over ; but the English held out valiantly, and showered balls and bombs upon the town, finally succeeding in dislodging the en- emy and putting them in full retreat. In June, 1762, the Count d'Hausonville entered the Bay Bulls with a powerful French fleet, consisting of the Robuste, 74; VBveille, 64; La Garonne, 44; and La Liconie, 30. He escorted several transports, whence 1,500 soldiers were landed. This force marched on St. John's, which surrendei-ed on summons, together with the English frigate Grammont. Lord Colville's fleet hastened up from Halifax and blockaded Admiral De Ternay in the harbor of St. John, while land forces were de- barked at Torbay and Quiddy Viddy. The last-named detachment (Royal Ameri- cans and Highlanders) proceeded to storm the works on Signal Hill, but the French fought desperately, and held them at bay until the English forces from Torbay came in and succeeded in carrying the entire line of heights. In the mean time, a dense fog had settled over the coast, under whose protection De Ternay led his squadron through the British line of blockade, and gained the open sea. In 1796 a formidable French fleet, under Admiral Richery (consisting of 7 line-of-battle ships and several frigates), menaced St. John's, then commanded by Admiral Sir James Wallace. Strong batteries were erected along the Narrows ; fire-ships were drawn up in the harbor; a chain was stretched across the entrance; and the entire body of the people was called under arms. The hostile fleet blockaded the port for many days, but was kept at bay by the batteries on Signal Hill ; and after an ineffectual attempt at attack, sailed away to the S. Feb. 12, 1816, a disastrous fire occurred at St. John's, by which 1,500 persons were left homeless ; and great suffering would have ensued had it not been for the citizens of Boston, who despatched a ship loaded with provisions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the impoverished people. Nov. 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by which $2,000,000 worth of property was destroyed; and this was followed, within 2 weeks, by a third dis- astrous conflagration. This succession of calamities came near resulting in the abandonment of the colony, and the people were goaded by hunger to a succession of deeds of crime and to organized violations of the laws. In 1825 the first highway was built (from St. John's to Portugal Cove) ; in 1833 the first session of the Colonial Parliament was held ; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived here in 1840. In 1860 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-religious causes, and threatening wide ruin. An immense mob of armed Irishmen attacked and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and rob- bery. The ancient organization called the Royal Newfoundland Companies was ordered out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for hours the gibes of the plunderers, until they were fired upon in the twilight, when they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and summoned all the rioters to that building, where the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearance, under pain of excommunication. After a remarkable interview, the next day, be- tween the Bishop and Gov. Sir Alexander Bannerman, this tragical revolt was ended. In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing business, and their crews amounted to 1584 men. In 1809 (the latest accessible statistics) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 577 vessels, with 4,937 men. The new railroad, the first to be built in Newfoundland, now runs from St John's to Holyrood, 65 M., and to Harbor Grace. It is being built by a New-York company, and will be extended as rapidly as possible to the copper-mines at Hall's Bay, 340 M. distant, opening up a valuable mining and farming country. It will cost !g 3,000,000, and the company receives a subsidy of ^185,000 a year for 35 years, and a land-grant of 1,700,000 acres. PORTUGAL COVE. Route 53. 195 53. The Environs of St. John's. " On either side of the city of St. John's, stretching in a semicircle along the rug- ged coast, at an average radius fi'oni the centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little fish- ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet and enjoyable summer, all persons who can command the use of a horse to revel in their beauties. Each little bay is but a slice of the high cliffs scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- lantic waves ; and leading down to its shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-burn pours back the waters evaporated from the parent surface." (Lt.-Col. McCrea.) The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable farming population. The road.s are fine, being for the most part macadamized and free from mud. 3 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated in a small forest. Quiddy-Viddy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St, John's. The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that has been de- scribed as possessing a " sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the Windsor Lake, or Twent^'-Mile Pond, " a large picturesque sheet of water, with some pretty, lonely-looking islands." The inn at Portugal Cove looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal for wedding-tours from St. John's. Barges run from St. John's to Topsail. " The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good road from St. John's. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the village i.s very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and. shut out everything but their conical or mammillated peaks, covered with wild stunted forest and bold masses of rock, breaking through with a tiny waterfall from the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. Turning suddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakes and busy little anchorage open to the sight, closed in the distance by the shores of Conception Bay, lofty and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle Isle." (Sir R. Bonnyc.\stl3.) " On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape St. Francis, and presently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the moutti of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, flashing in the sun- shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of the woods. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upon Conception Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (Prop. JuKi;s.) Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy-Viddy Lake, beyond which the Ballyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded domain of Vlrghiia Water. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. in circumfei^nce, " indented Avith little gras.s-edged bays, fringed and feathered to the limpid edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point the drive may be protracted to Logie Bay, a small cove between projecting cliffs, with bold and striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 M., and Tor- bay is 8-9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the high and mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. The country is thinly settled, and is crossed by several trout-brooks. 196 Route SI TORBAY. Lojrie Bay is remarkable fbr the ■wikiness of its rock and cliff scenery. " Nothing like a lH\noli is to bt» tVn\nil anvwhtnv ou this ccvnst, the desi-ont to the son being always ditliouU aiul cvnontlly iiwprai-ticablo. lu l.oirio Uay tlio thii'k-bt\ldod dark Sjmdstoiu's aud ci'uglonieratos stand bold and baiv in i\nnid-topiH-d hills and pivci- piics o-4lX^ ft. in hdjiht, with occasional lissnws tnivoi-sinjr thoir jaggvd clitic, aud the boiing waves of the Atlantic onrlinir annnul their ftvt in white eddies or leaping a^unst their sides with hui;v sponts of tlvun and spiivy ," (PuoF. JiKKS.) ''"lorU-ty is an arm of the sea. — a short, stronsr ann with a sUn\ hand and finger, rt\iching into the vvx*ky laud and touching the waterfalls and rapids of a pivtty brook llert^ is a little villagv, with Uoniish and l*i>;emblauce of an enormous tent with cavenunis nvesses and halls, in which the shades of eveuing weiv ahvady lurking, and the surf was sounding mourntuUy. OccaMonally it was uin.i'ked off hy lines and st\uus into squares, and having the resemblance, wheiv they have fallen out into the ocean, of dooi-s and windows oiH'uiug in upon the fivsher stone." 54 The Strait Shore of Avalon. — St John's to Cape Eace. That portion of tho reuinsnla of Avalon which fwnts to the eastwai-d on the Atlantic has Uvu teruHH.1 the -SfnjfV Shcrc, on account of its generally undeviating lino of direetion. Its outports nay be visited either by the tYiday mail-con- veyance, tluvugh Petty llavbor, l>ay Bulls, ferrylaud, aud Renewse, or by the "Western t\\astal steauver (,see Boute tV). l^isitancosi l>v Koacl. — St. John's to Blackhead. 4 M. ; Pettv llaibor, 10; Bay lUiUs, 10; \VicU\*s Bay. ::2 ; Mobile, 24; T.vul Cove, -0; l.a Manche, S3; Srigus, o4 ; Capi> Bi\\vle, S^; Capliu Cove, 42; i'exTylaud, 4-4 ; Aviujifort, 4S; ler- neuse, 51 ; Keuexvs©, 64 > Cape Kace, i^. " The iwad, one of the finest 1 ever s;\w, — an old-fa,, a very luxury for the whtvls of a springless w■agv^n, — ket^ps up the bed of a small river, a gvx^d-siieti trvnit-strtwm, tiowing from the in- land valley iuto the harbor of J^t John's. Contrasted with the bold regions that fivnt the (.xvan, the^e valleys ai-e sot> and fertile. "We ^vtssed sn;ooth n-eadows, and sloping plough-lands, aud given pxstures, and hou-^es? jHvping out of pivtty groves. One might have calUxl it a Canadian or ^lew-Hampshiiv vale.' ' The n^ul [v».-v-es several Ivkelets and tivnt-streams, and gives tine views of the owor and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely rt\semble the Corvlillera j^^aks; aud tnmi the bald summits ou the \\"., Trinity Bay may be setn. The mail-rv^ad running S. Ironi St. John's passe? WjiterfQj^.1 Bridge and soon approaches Blackheady a Catholic village near an iron-bound shore whose great cliffs have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and attrition of the Atlantic surges. Kear this place is Cape Spear, the most easterly point of Xorth America, 1,656 M. fix>m Valentia Bay, in Ireland. On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and-white striped tower sustaining a revolving light which is visible for 23 M. BAY BULLS. Route 5/^. 197 The road now passes between " woody banks running through an un- dulating country but half reclaimed on the r., while on the 1. (ho slopes stretch up to the breezy headland^ beyond whicli there is nothino- but sea and cloud (roni tins to Europe." PrV/y Ilarhov is 4 M. S. w' of Cano Spear and 10 M. from S.t. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, with a refinery of cod-hver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. OIT this ponit H B. M. frigate Ta^ci'd was wrecked in 1C14, and GO men were drowned. The houses of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow gini at the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at the f >ot of thii KUMne .s small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of m It. along the unbroken shore wliich leads S. to Bay Bulls- and at about 4 M. from Petty Harbor is the "* Spout, a deep cavern in the sea- ward chlls, m whoso top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minuto in a roaring fountain which IS seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches lonclay Hill (810 tt. h.gh), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay BuHs, a villaoQ of 700 mhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and afiords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms or ice, to make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bav, Lut most of he inhabitants are engaged m the cod-flshery, which is ciuTied on from arge open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great vicissitudes during the conflicts between tho French and the En o-]ish for the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed bv Admiral R.ehery ( rench) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinit;, all alon. shore, ami shooting-parties leave St. John's during the seasonVor several days' adventure hereabouts. chased it into IJ.vv Ihills. A naval l, ittlo of I, !. Sapphne. oil Cai,<, R,,,.;,,., n.i,l the eonipleto cli.comliture ot^ e I Hti u ho 'oTr'^ ^'^I"' •'"^'■'^'"" ^^'"^^ '■'"^'■' abandoned ho.-. The I'ron -h sai ors n'. o , ^'™ ^"^ ^i^-" shattered t^apphne and by the explosion of the ma"4zine ''"' ^""'"^^lately, but were destroyed WUhss Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a large and prominent Catholic church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great extent off this shore, also off Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Bejond the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road reaches Cape Broyle. to sea as fast as hey coS 5 '' S Ivert' inen7.^^^^^^ .^I'P then- cables, a,nd n.ado Co/pc 5ro2/?e is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Brovle Harbor near he mountainous he.ulland of Cape Broyle (552 ft high); There is' go^d salmon-fishnigon the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot 198 Route 51 FERRYLAND. . Ferryland is 2 M. beyond the Caplin-Cove settlement, and is the capi- tal of the district of Ferryland. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is M^ell located on level ground near the head of the harbor. In the immediate vicinity are several prosperous farms, and picturesque scenery surrounds the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on which is a fixed white light, 200 ft. above the sea, and visible for 16 M. Off this point are the slender spires of rock called the Hare's Ears, projecting from the sea to the height of 50 ft. In IGl-i (1G1I2) KiuR James I. granted the great peninsula between Trinity and Placentia Lays to Sir (ieorge Calvert, then Secretary of State. The grantee named bis nc.v domain Avalcn, in honor of the di.strict where Cliristian tradition claims that the Gospel was flr&t preached in Britain (the present Glastonbury). It vas de- signed to found here a Christian colony, with the broadest principles of toleration and charity. Calvert sent out a considerable company of . settlers, under the govern- ment of Capt. NV'ynne, and a colony was planted at J'erryland- The reports sent back to England concerning the soil and productions of the new country Mere so favorable that Sir George Calvert and his family soon joined the colonists. Under his administration an equitable government was established, fortifications were erected, and other improvements instituted. Lord Baitim< re had but little pleasure of his .settlement in Avalon. He found that he had been greatly deceived about the climate and the nature of the soil. The Puritans also began to harass him ; atid Erasmus Stourton, one of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes at Ferryland, but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Balti- more's priests f-aid mass and had "all the other ceremonies of the Church of Rome, in the ample manner as 'ti.s used in Spain." Finally, after trials by storm and by Bchismatics, Lord Baltimore died (in 1(:32), leaving to his son Cecil, 2d Lord Balti- more, the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant already secured from the king. In that more favored southern clin.e afterwards arose the great city which com- memorates and honors the name of Baltimore. In 1G.37 Sir David Kirke was appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and estab- lished liimself at Ferryland. lie hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- tained a sirong (and .'ometimes har.'^h) rule over the island. At the outbreak of the English Pievolution (1G42), Kirke-s brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought bravely through the war, while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and established a powerful and Avell-armcd fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in his domain ; and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the royal Channel fleet, was sailing to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he was headed off by the fleet of the Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fall of the Stuarts, Sir David was carried to England in a vessel of the Republic (in 1651), to be tried on various charges ; but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and was released, returning to Ferr}'- land, where he died in 1656, after haying governed the island f<'r over 20 years. At a later day this town became a port of some importance, and was the scene of re- peated naval attacks during the French wars. In 1673 it was taken and plundered by 4 Dutch frigates. In 1694 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying 90 guns, which opened a furious cannonade on the town. But the tVilliam and Mary, 16, •was lying in the harbor, with 9 merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at the harbor-mouth, whence, with the guns of the privateer, they inflicted such dam- age on the enemy that they withdrew, after a 5 hours' cannonade, having lost about 90 men. In 1762 the powerful French fleet of Admiral de Ternay was driven off by a battery on Bois Island. Aquafort lies S. W. of Ferryland, and is a small hamlet situated on a long, deep, and narrow harbor embosomed in lofty hills. The next settle- ment is Fej'mewse, with 600 inhabitants and a Catholic church and convent. It is on the shore of Admiral's Cove, in the deep and secure harbor of Fermeuse, and the people are engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries. Renewse is an ancient and decadent port 16 M. S. of Ferryland, situated on CAPE EACE. Route 54. 199 an indifferent harbor which lies between Burnt Point and Renewse Head. 3-4 M. inland are the rugged hummocks called the Red Hills, whence the eastern hill range runs 30 M. N. across Avalon to Holyrood. 6-8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the Butterpots, ■which command broad views over Avalon, and from Bay Bulls to the W. shore of Trepassey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are also seen from ttiis point ; and Prof. Jukes counted 80 lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 955 ft. high). S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels, veiled in impenetrable fog or swept inward by resistless storms, have been dashed in pieces. A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels bound S. of Cape Race upon this shore, and then, if the Cape Race and Ferry land lights are wrapped in the dense black fog peculiar to these waters, the chances of disaster are great. The erection of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the perils of navigation here. The ocean steamships ^n^^o-Sozo^, Argo, and City of Fhiladelphia were lost on Cape Race. Cape Race is the S. E. point of Newfoundland, and is a rugged head- land of black slaty rock thrown up in vertical strata. It is provided with a powerful light, 180 ft. above the sea, and visible for 19 M. The great polar current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the W.«N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the bay-currents, a complexity of streams that causes many Avrecks. Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogs are often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the •warning of the "ice blink." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods over this shore almost incessantly, and vessels are navigated by casting the lead and following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admi- ralty charts. 6 M. E. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 2-12 M. wide, with a depth of water of 15 - 26 fathoms. Cape Race is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M. ; Boston, 820; Portland, 779 ; St. John, N. B., 715; Halifax, 463; Miramichi, 492; Quebec, 836; Cape Clear, 1,713 ; Galway, 1,721 ; Liverpool, 1,970. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. They extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45° N. latitude) running S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged sand- banks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper waters late in Novem- ber, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidh'. Immense fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 100,000 men are dependent on this industry. Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are covered by rarely broken fo^s, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. Sometimes these fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides. It was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1755, the British 60-gun frigates Dunkirk 200 Route 55. THE GKAND BANKS. and Defiance were cruising about in a dense fog, -when they met the French men-of- war Atr.ide. and Lys. For five hours the battle continued, and a continual can- nonade was kept up between the hostile ships. The French were overmatched, but fought valiantly, inflicting heavy losses on the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lost 90 men). When they finally surrendered, the Lys was found to contain $400,000 in specie and 8 companies of infantry. The vicinity of Cape Race was for some time the cruising-ground of the U. S. frigate Constitution, in 1812, and in these waters she captured the Adiona, the Ade- line, and other vessels. Near the edge of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41° 41' N., long 55° 18' W.) occurred the famous sea-fight between the Constitution and the Guerriere, whose result filled the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. On the afternoon of Aug. 19, 1812, the Constitution sighted the Guerriere, and bore down upon her with double-shotted batteries. The British ship was somewhat in- ferior in force, but attacked the American Avith the confidence of victory. The Con- stitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot dis- charged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision that the Guerriere was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 14. The Guerriere had 38 guns, and the Constitution had 44. Among the American privateers that cruised about the Grand Banks in 1812 - 14, none was more successful than the Mammoth, of Baltimore. She captured the ships Ann and Elizn, Urania, Anishy, Dobson, Sal/ust, Uniza, Sarah, Sir Home Fophani, Champion, Mentor, and many other rich prizes. " Far off by stormy Labrador — Far off' the Banks of Newfoundland, Where angry seas incessant roar, And logfry mists their wings expand, The fishinpf-schooners, black and low, For weary mouths sail to and I'ro." 55. St. John's to Labrador. — The Northern Coast of New- foundland. The Northern mail-steamer leaves St. John's, N. F., every alternate Monday dur- ing the season of navigation, and visits the chief outportson theN. coast (so-called). The fares are as follows: St. John's to Bav-de-Verds, 10s., — steerage, 6 s.; to Trinity, 20s., — steerage, 10 s.; to Bonavista,27s. 6 d., — steerage. 14 s. ; to Green s- pond,"30s., — steerage, 15s.; to Fogo, 32 s. 6d.; to Twillingate, 358. ; to Exploits Island, 37 s. 6 d. ; to Tilt Cove, Bett's Cove, or Nipper's Harbor, 40 a. At its most northerly port the steamer meets the Hercules, the Labrador mail-steamer. The fare on the Labrador steamer is .'fi!2 a day, which includes both passage and meals. The northern boats are powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their tables is necessarily of the plainest kind. The time which will lie required for the Labrador trip is nearly four weeks (from St. John's back to St. John's again). The expense is about SoO The journey should be begun before the middle of July, in order to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes. It would be prudent for gentlemen who desire to make this tour to write eirly in the season to the agents of the steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other particulars. Mr J. Taylor Wood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that port to St. John's : and Bowring Brothers, St. John's, N. F., are the agents for the Northern Coastal Line. Passing out between the stern and frowning portals of the harbor of St. John's, the steamer soon takes a northerly course, and opens the indenta- tion of Lorjie Bay on tlie W. (see page 196). After running by the tall cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Red Head (700 ft. high), Torhay is seen opening to the W., within which is the village of the same name. TRINITY. Route 55. 201 About 8 Isl. beyond Torbay, the white shore of Cape St. Francis is seen on the port bow, and, if the water is rough, the great breakers may be seen whitening over the rocks which are called the Brandies. The course is now laid across the mouth of Conception Bay, which is seen extending to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 II. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 M. from St. John's, the steamer passes between Bay Verd Head and Split Point, and stops of? Bay Verd, a village of about 600 inhabitants, situated on a broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. The fishing-grounds in this vicin- ity are among the best on the American coast, and attract large fleets of boats and schooners. The attention of the villagers is divided between farming and fishing, the latter industry being by far the most lucrative. Roads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see Eoute 56), and N. W. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island, a high and ridgy land 3^ j\I. long, and nearly 2 M. from the main. On its N. end is a pow- erful flashing light, elevated-380 ft. above the sea, and visible for 28 ]\1. Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if the term may be used) to visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no doubt that these waters had long been the resort of the fishing-fleets of the Normans, Bretons, and Basques. Lescarbot claims that they had fished off these shores "for many centuries," and Cabot applied the name "Baccalaos" to the country because "in the seas there- about he found so great multitudes of certain bigge fishes, much like unto Tunnies (which tlie inhabitants call Baccalaos)^ that they sometimes stayed his shippes." Baccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the natives in plare of their own word Apege, meaning the same thing, is held as con- clusive proof that they had been much in communication with Basque fishermen before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot gave this name to the continent as far as he explored it, but in the map of 1640 it is apphed only to the islet which now re- tains it. On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in about Grates Point, and stops at Old Perlican {see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of Trinity Bay for about 20 M., on a N. W. course, and enters the harbor of Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The entrance is bold and imposing, and the harbor is one of the best on the island, affording a land-locked anchor- age for the largest fleets. It is divided into two arms by a high rocky peninsula (380 ft. high), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of the town. Trinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable thinning is done in the coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 5 M ; English Harbor, 7; Ragged Harbor, 16 ; and Catalina, 20. On leaving Trinitj'- Harbor, the course is S. E imtil Green Bay Head and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along within sight of a high and cliffy shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen Green Island, where there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around which (through rough water if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading a labj'-rinth of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re- 9* 202 Route 55. BONAVISTA. markable for its sudden and frequent intermittent tides. The town of Catalina has 1,300 inhabitants, with 2 churches, of which that of the Epis- copahans is a fine piece of architecture, though built of wood. The main part of the settlement is on the W. side of the harbor, and has a consider- able maritime trade. The adjacent waters abound in salmon, and deli- cious edible whelks are found on the rocks. Besides the highway to Trinity (20 M.), a rugged road leads N. to Bonavista in 10 M. Catalina was visited in 1534 by Cartier, who named it St. Catherine. On leaving Catalina Harbor, North Head is passed, and after running N. E. by N. 3 M. Flowers Head is left on the port bow. About 2 M. be- yond, the Bird Islets are seen on the 1., near which is the fishing-settlement of Bird Island Cove (670 inhabitants), with its long and handsome beach. A short distance inland is seen the Burnt Ridge, a line of dark bleak hills rising to a height of 500 ft The Dollarman Bank, fiimous for codfish, is now crossed, and on the 1. is seen Cape Largent and Spiller Point, off which are the precipitous and tower-like * Spiller Bodes, surrounded by the sea. The steamer now passes Cape Bonavista, on which is a red-and- white fiashing-l'ght, 150 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. The re-discovery of Newfoundland (after the Northmen's voyages 5 centuries be- fore) was effected ia June, 1497, by Cabot, a Venetian in the service of Henry VII. of England, sailing in the ship Matthew, of Bristol He gave the name of Bona Vista (" Fair View ■•), or Prima Vista (" First View "), to the first point of the coast ■which he saw, and that name has since been attached to this northerly cape, since it is believed that this was the location of the new-found shore. (The reader of Bid- die's "Memoirs of Sebastian Cabot" will, however, be much puzzled to know what point, if any, Cabot actually saw on these coasts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. ax-e prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. After roianding the light, the steamer enters Bonavista Bay, a great bight of the sea extending between Capes Bonavista and Freels, a dis- tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. W. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- bor of Bonavista, an ancient marine town with 2,600 inhabitants and 3 churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a port of entry, having a large and increasing commerce. The harbor is not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in English Gothic architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. Considerable farming is done on the comparatively fertile lands in the vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the air more clear than on the S. shoi'es of the island. The town is 146 M. from St John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself in 1696 by beating off the French fleet which had captured St. John's and ravaged the S. coasts. BONAVISTA BAY. Route 55. 203 Bonavista Bay. A road leads S. W. from Bonavista to Birchy Cove, 9 M. ; Amherst Cove, 12; King's Cove, 20 ; Keels Cove, 26 ; Tickle Cove, 33 ; Open Hole, 36 ; Plate Cove, 38 ; and Indian Arm, 43. King''s Cove is a village of Labrador fishermen, with 550 inhabitants and 2 churches. It is on a narrow harbor between the lofty cliffs of the coast range, through whose passes a road ruhs S. to Trinity in 13 M. 3 M. from King's Cove is Broad Cove village, under the shadow of the peak of Southern Head. Keels is 6 M. from King's Cove, and does a considerable lumber business. Thence the road descends through Tickle Cove (2 M. from the picturesque Red Cliff Island) to the three villages ou the S., each of which has 2-300 inhabitants. To the W . are the deep estuaries of Sweet Harbor, Clode Sound (20 M. long), and Newman Sound (11 M. long), penetrating the hill-country and exhibiting a succession of views of ro- mantic scenery and total desolation. Boats may be taken from Open Hole to Bar- roiv Harbor, a fishing settlement 10 M. N. W., at the mouth of Newman Sound, and to Salvage, 16 M distant, a village of 500 inhabitants. 6 M. N. W., beyond the Bay of Fair and False, is Bloody Bay, a deep and narrow inlet with picturesque forest scenerj', extending for several miles among the hills. The name was given on ac- count of the frequent conflicts which here ensued between the Red Indians and the fishermen. At the head of the bay is the Terra Nova River, descending from the Terra Nova Lake, which is 15 M. distant, and is 12 M. long. The N. shore of Bonavista Bay is visited most easily from the port of Greens- pond. The comm.unication is exclusively by boats, which may be engaged at the village. Nearly all the islands in the vicinity and for 10 M. to the S. W. and S. are occupied by small communities of hardy fishermen, and the shores of the main- land are indented with deep and narrow bays and sounds. To the N. are Pool's Island, 3 M. ; Pincher's Island, 9 ; Cobbler's Island, 10 ; and Middle Bill Cove (near Cape Freels), 15. To the S. and W. are the Fair Island, 7 M. ; Deer Island, 11; Cottel's Island (three settlements), 15 ; the Gooseberry Isles, 12 ; and Hare Bay, 23. The last-named place is at the entrance of Freshivater Bay, which runs in for about 15 M., with deep water and bold shores. The great northern mail-road is being built along the head of this bay ; a short distance from which (by the river) are the Gainbo Fonds, large lakes in the desolate interior, 23 M. long, abounding in fish. One of the best salmon-fisheries on the island is at the head of Indian Bay, 12 M. W. of Greenspond. On leaving Bonavista, tlie steamer runs N. by W. across Bonavista Bay, passing the Gooseberry Isles on the port bow. After over 3 hours' run, the N. shore is approached, and the harbor of Greenspond is entered. This town contains over 1,000 inhabitants, and is situated on an island 1 M. square, so rugged that soil for house-gardens had to be brought from the mainland. A large business is done here in the fisheries and the seal- trade, and most of the inhabitants are connected with either the one or the other. The entrance to the harbor is difficult, and is marked by a fixed red light, visible for 12 M. The steamer now runs N. E. and N. for about 18 M. to Cape Freels, passing great numbers of islands, some of which are inhabited by fisher- meo, while others are the resort of myriads of sea-birds, who are seen hovering over the rocks in great flocks. Soon after passing the arid high- lands of Cape Freels, the course is laid to the N. W. across the opening of Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, a broad and deep arm of the sea which is studded with many islands. Leaving the Cape Eidge and Windmill Hill astern, the Penguin Islands are seen, IS^-M. from Cape Freels; and 6 M. farther N. W, the Wadkam Isles are passed, where, on a lonety and surf- 204 Route 55. TOGO. beaten rock, is the Offer Wadhara lighthouse, a circular brick tower 100 ft. high, exhibiting a fixed white light, which is visible for 12 M. To the N- E., and well out at sea, is Funic Island, near which are good sealing- grounds. Funk Island was visited by Cartier in 1534, who named it (and the adjacent rocks) Les Isles des Oyseaux. Here he saw a white bear " as large as a cow," which had swum 14 leagues from Newfoundland. "He then coasted along all the northern part of that great island, and he says that you meet nowhere else better ports or a more wretched country ; on every side it is nothing but frightful rocks, sterile lands covered with a scanty moss ; no trees, but only some bushes half dried up ; that nevertheless he found men there well made, who wore their hair tied on the top of the head." The isles were again visited by Cartier in July, 1535, in the ship Grand Hermine. " If the soyle were as good as the harboroughes are, it were a great com- moditie; but it is not to be called the new found land, but rather stones and cragges and a place fit for wilde beastes In short, I believe this was the land allotted to Caiue." Such was the unfavorable description given by Jaques Cartier of the land between Cape Eonavista and the Strait of Belle Isle. It is supposed that either the Baccalieu or the Penguin Islands were the "Feather Islands,'" which the Annates SkallwUini and Ligviann's state were discovered by the Northmen in the year 1285. The Saga of Eric the Red tells that Leif, son of the Earl of Norway, visited the Labrador and Newfoundland shores in 994. "Then sailed they to the land, and cast anchor, and put off boats, and went ashore, and saw there no grass. Great icebergs were over all up the country, but like a plain of flat stones was all from the sea to the mountains, and it appeared to them that this land had no good qualities." Leif named this country Helluland (from Hella, a flat stone), distinguishing Labrador as Helluland it Mikla. In 1288 King Eric sent the mariner Rolf to Iceland to call out men for a voyage to these shores ; and the name Nyja Land, or Nyja Fimdu Land, was then applied to the great island to the S., and was probably adopted by the English (in the Anglicized form of Newfoundland) during the commercial intercourse between England and Iceland in the 15th cen- tury. 9^ M. N. W. by N., Ca2)e Fogo is approached, and is a bold promontory 214 ft. high, terminating Fogo Island on the S. E. The course continues to the N. W. ofl" the rugged shores of the island, and at 6.^ M. from Cape Fogo, Round Head is passed, and the steamer assumes a course more to the westward. 6-8 M. from Round Head she enters the harbor of Fogo, a port of entry and post-town 216 AI. from St. John's. The population is 740, with 2 churches ; and the town is of great local importance, being the depot of supplies for the fishing-stations of the N. shore. (See also Route 58 for this and other ports in the Bay of Notre Dame.) "The western headlands of Fogo are exceedingly attractive, lofty, finely broken, of a red and purplish brown, tinted here and there with pale green As we pass the bold prominences and deep, narrow bays or fiords, they ai'e continually changing and surprising us with a new scenery. And now the great sea-wall, on our right, opens and discloses the harbor and village of Fogo, the chief place of the island, gleaming in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the windows. Looking to the left, all the western region is one fine ^gean, a sea filled with a mul- titude of isles, of manifold forms and sizes, and of every height, from mountain pyra- mids and crested ridges down to rounded knolls and tables, rocky ruins split and shattered, giant slabs sliding edgewise into the deep, columns and grotesque masses rufiied with cui-ling surf, — the Cyclades of the west. I climb the shrouds, and be- hold fields and lanes of water, an endless and beautiful network, a little Switzerland with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea." (Noble.) In passing out of Fogo Harbor, the bold bluff of Fogo Head (345 ft. high) is seen on the 1., back of which is Brimstone Head. The vessel steams TWILLINGATE. Route 55. 205 in to the W., up the Bay of Notre Dame, soon passing Fogo Head, and opening the Change Island Tickles on the S. Change Island is then seen on the 1., and the course is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the harbor of Twil- lingate (the Anglicized form of TouUnr/uet, the ancient French name of the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of the district of Twil- lingate and Fogo, the most northerly political and legal division of New- foundland, and has a population of 2,790, with 3 churches. It is situated on two islands, and the sections are connected by a bridge. Farming is carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, but with varvin^- suc- cess, owing to the short and uncertain summers. The houses in the town are (as usually in the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- tecture. The finest breed of Newfountllanil dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate Isles, and were generally distinguished by their deep black color, with a white cross on the breast. They were smaller than the so-called Newfoundland dogs of America and Britain ; were almost amphibious ; and lived on fish, salted, fresh, or decayed. Like the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distino-uished for rare intelligence and unbounded affection (especially for children) ; and were exempt from hydrophobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth from ^ 75 to $ 100. The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island. The course is to the S. W., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and the N. promontory of the great New World Island. 14 M. from Twillingate she reaches the post-town of Exploits Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, with a large fleet of fishing-boats. (See also Eoute 58.) From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the harbor of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for its copper-mines, which were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at S 1,180,810, were extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or bunches 3-4 ft. thick, scattered through the heart of the hills, and is secured by level tun- nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main shafts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valuable nickel-mine here, with a lode 10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, and producing ore worth % 332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is found in the vicinity, but is too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- itants of Tilt Cove are all minei-s. The next stopping-place is at Nipper's Harbor, a small fishing-village 10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is the best on the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, and lies between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay Island, 6-8 M. S. of Nipper's harbor. 206 Route 56. CONCEPTION BAY. The great copper-mines of this region now employ thousands of miners, and produce vast quantities of rich ore. Tlie new railway from St. John's is heading toward the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, to reach the mines. They are owned in London, and much of the ore is shipped to "Wales, to be smelted. Since the year 1880, these remote shores have received great accessions of population; a telegraph line has been built along the coast to St. John's ; and new roads begin to reach in- land, including the great highway across the island, to Indian Pond, Grand Lake, and the Bay of Islands, surveyed in 1878, in which year Governor Sir John Glover and the Rev. M. Harvey crossed the island on this line, in canoes, finding immense areas of arable and grazing land, deposits of coal and other minerals, etc. The Hercules connects with the Northern Coastal steamer at its last port, and goes on to Labrador (see pages 223 to 229). 56. St. John's to Conception Bay. The new railway runs out from St. John's towards Conception Bay, connecting ■with mail-stages for Tarious localities. It is under contemplation to extend a branch of the railway by Harbor Grace to Carbonear. A small steamboat plies up and down the bay at certain seasons. Fares. — Portugal Cove to Brigus, 18 M., fare $1.40 ; to Carbonear, 20 M. ; to Bay Roberts, 20 IVI. ; to Harbor Grace, 20 M., fare, $1.50. There is also a road extending around Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. John's to Topsail, by way of Portugal Cove, passing Beachy, Broad, and Horse Coves. The more direct route leads directly across the N. part of Avalon from St. John's to Topsail. The chief villages and the distances on this road are as follows St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Kiliigrews, 18 ; Holyrood, 28 ; ChapeFs Cove, 33 Harbor Main, 34^ ; Salmon Cove, 37 : Colliers, 40 ; Brigus, 46 ; Port de Grave, 51 Spaniard's Bay, 66 ; Harbor Grace, 63 ; Carbonear, 67h ; Salmon Cove, 72 ; Spout Cove, 76^^; Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87; Island Cove, 93J; Caplin Cove, 97 ; Bay Verd, 105. The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a singular farming country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of hills. Portu- gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely situated on the ledges near the foot of a range of highlands. It contains over 700 inhabitants, with 2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 195). Gaspar Cortereal explored this coast in the year 1500, and named Conception Bay. He carried home such a favorable account that a Portuguese colony was es- tablished at the Cove, and 50 ships were sent out to the fisheries. In 1578, 400 sail of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under all flags. The colony was broken up by the English fleet under Sir Francis Drake, who also drove the French and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. Belle Isle lies off shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence it may be visited by ferry- boats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and is traversed by a line of bold hills. It is famous for the richness of its deep black soil, and produces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. The lower Silurian geological formation is here finely displayed in long parallel strata, amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which front on the shore are very bold, and sometimes overhang the water or else are cut into strange and fantastic shapes by the action of the sea. Two or three brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping from the upper levels. Belle Isle has 600 inhabitants, located in two villages. Lance Cove, at the W. end, and the Beach, on the S. HAKBOR GRACE. Route 56. 207 The steamer runs out to the S. W. between Belle Isle and the bold heights about Portugal Cove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the nar- row harbor of Brigus {Sullivan's Hotel), a port of entry and the capital of the district of Brigus. It has 2,000 inhabitants, with Wesley an, Eoman, and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hills, and pre- sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are a few farms in the vicinity, pi^oducing fair ci-ops in return for great labor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach, 4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Peak (598 ft. high). The steamer passes out fpom the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, Bay de Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,600 in- habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of these villages, the latter being on the narrow neck of land between Bay de Grave and Bay Roberts, 2^ M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the course is laid S. W. up Bay Roberts, passing Coldeast Point on the port bow and stopping at the village of Bay Roberts {Moore's Hotel). This place consists of one long street, with 2 churches and several wharves, and has 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- rador coast. Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Span^ iard's Bay is seen on the 1., entering the land for 83 M., and dotted with fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, on whose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church of BryanVs Cove are next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, and the steamer passes on around the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- Grace Islands (ofi" Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white- and-red flash light, 151 ft. above the sea, and visible for 18 M. Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, and is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 6,770 inhab- itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police departments. The town is built on level land, near the shelter of the Point of Beach, with its wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. The bay is in the form of a wedge, decreasing from I2 M. in width to -J M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. The trade of this port is very large, and about 200 ships enter the harbor yearly. There is a stone court-house and a strong prison, and the Con- vent of the Presentation is on the Carbonear road. The Eoman Catholic 208 Routed?. CARBONEAR cathedral is the finest building in the city, and its high and symmetrical dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the cathedral is profusely ornamented, having been recently enlarged and newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- sessing, being rudely constructed of wood, and but little improved by painting. A rugged road runs N. W. 15 M. across the peninsula to Heart's Content (see Route 57). A road to the N. reaches (in 1^ M.) the farming village of Mosquito Cove, snugly embosomed in a pretty glen near the cultivated meadows. About the year 1610 a colony was planted here by the agents of that English company in which were Sir Francis Bacon, the Earl of Southampton, and other knights and nobles. King James I. granted to this company all the coast between Capes Bonavista and St. Mary, but their enterprise brought no pecuniary returns. Carbonear is 1^ M. by road from Mosquito Cove (3 M. from Harbor Grace), and is reached by the steamer after passing Old Sow Point and rounding Carbonear Island. This town has 2,000 inhabitants, with 3 churches, and Weslej^an and Catholic schools. Several wharves are built out to furnish winter-quarters for the vessels and to accommodate the large fish-trade of the place. It is 21 M. by boat to Poi'tugal Cove, across Conception Bay. This town was settled by the French early in the l7th century, under the name of Carboniere, but was soon occupied by the British. In 1696 it was one of the two Newfoundland towns that re- mained in the hands of the English, all the rest having been captured by Iberville's French fleet. Other marauding French squadrons were beaten off by the men of Carbonear in 1705-6, though the adjacent coast was devastated ; and in 1762 Carbonear Island was fortified and garrisoned by the citizens. The mail-road runs N. from Carbonear to Bay Verd, passing the villages of Cro- ker's Cove, 1 M. ; Freshwater, 2 ; Salmon Cove, 5 ; Perry's Cove, 8 ; Broad Cove, 15; Western Bay, 17; Northern Bay, 20 ; Job's Cove, 25; Island Cove, 27; Low Point, 33 ; Bay Yerd, 38. There is no harbor along this shore, the " coves " being mere open bights, swept by sea-winds and affording insecure anchoi'age. The in- habitants are engaged in the fisheries, and have made some attempts at farming, in defiance of the early and biting frosts of this high latitude. Snlwon Cove is near the black and frowning cliffs of Salmon Cove Head, and is famous for its great num- bers of salmon. Near Ochre Pit Cove are beds of a reddish clay which is used for paint, and it is claimed that the ancient Boeothic tribes obtained their name of " Bed Indians " from their custom of staining themselves with this clay. iJay Verd, see page 201. 57. Trinity Bay. This district may be visited by taking the Northern Coastal steamer (see Route 55) to Bay Verd, Old Perlican, or Trinity; or by passing from St John's to Harbor Grace by Route 56, and thence by the road to Heart's Content (15 M.). The latter Tillage is about 80 M. from St. John's by the road around Conception Bay. Heart's Content is situated on a fine harbor about half-way up Trinity Bay, and has 880 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the Labrador fisheries or in shipbuilding. The scenery in the vicinity is very striking, partaking of the boldness and startling contrast which seems peculiar to this sea-girt Provuace. Just back of the village is a small lake, over TRINITY BAY. Route 57. 209 which rises the dark mass of Mizzen Hill, 604 ft. high. Heart's Content derives its chief importance and a world-wide fame, from the fact that here is the W. terminus of the old Atlantic telegraph-cable. The office of the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good building in the town, " Throb on, strong pulse of thunder ! beat From answering beach to beach. ; Fuse nations in thy kindly heat, And melt the chains of each 1 " Wild terror of the sky above. Glide tamed and dumb below ! Bear gently. Ocean's carrier-dove, Thy errands to and fro. " Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, Beneath the deep so far. The bridal robe of earth's accord, The funeral shroud of war ! " For lo ! the fall of Ocean's wall Space mocked and time outrun ; And round the world the thouglit of all Is as the thought of one.' John G. Whittiee s Cable Hymn. The road running N. from Heart's Content leads to New Perlican, 3 M. ; Sillee Cove, 6 M. ; Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, 28; and Grate's Cove, 34. Neio Perlican is on the safe harbor of the same name, and has about 420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fishery and in ship- building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. Old Perlican is about the size of Heart's Content, and is scattered along the embayed shores inside of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a crescent-shaped range of dark and barren hills. The Northern Coastal steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. " O lonel3' Bay of Trinity, O dreary sliores, give ear ! Lean down into the white-lipped sea, The voice of God to hear ! " From world to world His couriers fly, Thought-winged and shod with fire ; The nngel of His stormy sky Rides down the sunken wire. " What saith the herald of the Lord ? ' The world s long strife is done : Close wedded by that mystic cord, Its continents are one. *' ' And one in heart, as one in blood, Shall all her peoples be ; The hands of human brotherhood Are clasped beneath the sea." The southern road from Heart's Content leads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's Delight, 9 ; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witless Bay, 19 ; Green Harbor, 23 ; Hope All, 28 ; New Harbor, 32; and Dildo Cove, 35. The villages on this road are all small, and are mostly inhabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Green Harbor and Hope All is milder and more pastoral than are the cUff-bound regions on either side. From New Harbor a road runs E. by Spaniard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. John's, in 68 M. To the S. aod W. lie the fishing-hamlets on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, which separates PlacentiaBay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7M. long, joining the peninsula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull Armrvins up amid the mountains to within 2 M. of the Come-by-chance River of Placentia Bay, and here it is proposed to make a canal joining the two bays. Heart's Ease is 15 M. from Heart's Content (by boat), and is at the S. entrance of Random Sound. It is a fishing-village with 200 inhabitants and a church. To the S. is the grand cliff-scenery around St. Jones Harbor, and the long and river- like Deer Harbor, filled with islands, at whose head is Centre Hill, an isolated cone over 1,000 ft. high. From the summit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hill may be seen nearly the whole extent of the Placentia and Trinity Bays, with their capes and islands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's Ease is Random Island, covering a large area, and separated from the main by the deep and narrow watercourses called Random Sound and Smith's Sound. There is much fine scenery in the sounds and their deep arms, and salmon-fishing is here carried on to a considerable extent. There are immense quantities of slate on the shores, some of which has been quar- N 210 Route 58. EIVER OF EXPLOITS. ried (at Wilton GroTe). The two sounds are about 80 M. long, forming three sides of a square around Random Island, and have a width of from j^ M. to 2 M. " The sail up Smith's Sound was very beautiful. It is a fine riTer-like arm of the sea, 1-2 M. wide, with lofty, and in many places precipitous, rocky banks, covered with wood. .... The character of the scenery of Random Sound is wild and beautiful, and cou- veying, from its stillness and silence, the feeUng of utter solitude and seclusion." Trinity is the most convenient point from Avhich to visit the N. shore of the Bay (see page 201). The southern road runs to Trouty, 7 M. ; New Bonaventure, 12 M. ; and Old Bonaventure, 18 M. Beyond these settle- ments is the N. entrance to Random Sound. 68. The Bay of Notre Dame. Passengers are landed from the Northern Coastal steamer at Togo, Twillingate, Little Bay Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Tilt Cove, — all ports on this bay (see pages 204^ 205). Fogo is situated on Fogo Island, which lies between Sir Charles Ham- ilton's Sound and the Bay of Notre Dame. It is 13 M. long from E. toW., and 8 M. wide, and its shores are bold and rugged. There are 10 fishing- villages on the island, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants (exclusive of Fogo), and roads lead across the hills from cove to cove. It is 9 M. by road from Fogo to Cape Fogo; 7 M. to Shoal Bay; 5 to Joe Bait's Arm (400 inhabitants); 7 toLittle Seldom -come-by ; and 9 to Seldom-come-by, a considerable village on a fine safe liarbor, which is often filled with fleets of schoon- ers and brigs. If ice on the coast or contrary winds prevent the fishermen from reaching Labrador in the early summer, hundreds of sail bear away for this harbor, and wait here until the northern voyage is practicable. There is no other secure anchorage for over 50 M. down the coast Tilto7i Harbor is on the E. coast of the island, and is a Catholic village of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements reached bv boat from Fogo are Apsey Cove, 14 M. : Indian Islands, 14; Blackhead Cove, 14 ; "Rocky Bay, 25 ; Barr'd Islands, 4 ; and Change Islands, 8. 20 M S. W. is Gander Bay , the outlet of the great Gander-Bay Ponds, which bathe the slopes of the Blue Hills and the Heart Ridge, a chain of mountains 30 M. long. From Exploits Island (see page 205) boats pass S. 12 ]\I. through a great archipelago to the mouth of the River of Exploits. This noble river de- scends from Red-Indian Pond, about 90 M. to the S. W., and has a strong current with frequent rapids. The Grand Falls are 145 ft. high, where the stream breaks through the Chute-Brook Hills. An Indian trail leads from near the mouth of the river S. W. across tlie vast barrens of the in- terior, to the Bay of Despair, on the S. coast of Newfoundland. The Eiver of Exploits flows for the greater part of its course through level lowlands, covered with evergreen forests. It may be ascended in steamers for 12 M., to the first rapid, and from thence to the Red-Indian Pond by boats (making frequent portages). The river was first ascended by Lieut. Buchan, R.N., in 1810, under orders to find and conciliate the Red Indians, who had tied to the interior after being nearly ex- terminated by the whites. He met a party of them, and left hostages in their hands while he carried some of their number to the coast. But his guests decamped, and he returned only to find that the hostages had been cruelly murdered, and the tribe had fled to the remote interior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. John, loaded with presents, and released ; since which time no Red Indians have been seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has fled to Labrador, RED-INDIAN POND. Route 58. 211 or is secluded in some more remote part of the interior. They were very numerous at the tune of the advent of the Europeans, and received the new-comers with con- fidence ; but thereafter for two centuries they were hunted down for the sake of the rich furs in their possession, and gradually retired to tlie distant inland lakes. In 1S27 the IJoeotliic Society of St .Iohn"s sent out envoys to find the Rod Indians and open friendly intcrcourKe with thein. But they wtro unable to get sight of a single Indian during long Weeks of rambling through the interior, and it is con- cluded that the race is extinct. On the shor(;s of tlio Inroad and beautiful Red-Indian Pond Mr. Cormack found several long-deserted villages of wigwams, with canoes and curious aboriginal cemeteries. This was evidently the fivorite seat of th'^ tribe' and from this point their deer-fences were seen for over 30 M. (seo also page ^is). ' Little Bay Island (250 inhabitants), 15 M. from Tilt Cove, is the most fiworable point from which to visit Hall's Bay. 8 M. S. W. are the settle- ments at tlie mouth of Hall's Bay, of which Ward's Harbor is the chief, having 200 inhabitants and a factory for canning salmon. There are valu- able salmon-fisheries near the head of the bay. From Hall's Bay to the N. and W., and towards White Bay, are the favorite summer feeding-grounds of the immense herds of doer which range, almost unmolested, over the in- terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this point, and sportsmen should secure two or three well-certified Micmac guides. A veteran British sportsman has written of this region : " I know of no country 60 near Jinglaud which offers the same amount of inducement to the explorer natu- rahst or sportsman." It is to bo hoped, however, that no future visitors will imi- tate the atrocious conduct of a party of London sportsmen, who recently entered tiie^e hunting-grounds and massacred nearly 2,000 deer during the short season, leaving the forests filled with decaying game. Public opinion will sustain the Mic- mac Indians who are dependent on the deer for their living, and who have declared that they will prevent a repetition of such carnage, or punish its perpetrators in a summary manner. o > i i i The Indians and the half-breed hunters frequently cross the island from Ilall'a Bay by ascending Indian Broolc in boat3 fcr about 25 M., and then making a port- age to the chaiu ot ponds cniptyiug into Grand Pond, and de.-;cending by Beer Pond and the Ilumber River (skirting the Long Range) to the Lay of Islands. The transit is both arduous and perilous. 20 M. inland are the mountains called the Three iojwm, from whose summit may be seen the Grand Pond, the Bay of Exploits, and the Strait of Belle Isle. i j " The deer migrate to the S. W. in the autumn, and pass the winter near St. George's Bay and Cape Ray The Red Indians constructed many leagues of fence, from the Bay of Notre Dame to Red-Indian Pond, by which they intercepted the herds during their passage to the S. , and laid in supplies of provi. ions for the winter. Ketl- Indian Pond is about S'J M. S. W. of Hall's Bay. It is 40 M. long by 5-b M. wide, and contains many islands. To the S. lie the great interior Ukcs ii an unexplored and trackless region. The chief of these are Croaker's Lake (10 M. du^tant), filled \yith islets ; Jameson's Lake, 20 M. long, between Serpentine Mt. and m. Misery ; Lake Bathurst, 17 by 5 M. ; and George IV. Lake, 18 by G M. 15 M. W ot Red-Indian Pond is Grand Pond, which is 60 M. long. (See page 218 ) *rom Nipper's Harbor the sportsman may pass up Green Bay, to the S. W., and enter the hunting-grounds (having first taken care to secure trusty guides). On the 'il , ° , ^'^^ ^''l.}^ ^ copper-mine that was opened in IBGO, and has yielded well. 1^ ^/*^? '■' ^'^ ^ ^™™ "^'^'^ ^^^'' SO M. from New Bay, and 24 M. from Kim- rod. 7 M. distant is Buryirn; Place, a small fi.hing-villagc, near which have been lound numerous birch-bark coffins and other memorials of the Red Indians. A road runs N. E from Tilt Cove, passing in 3 M. Hound Harbor, which is prolific iu cop- per ; and in 4 M Skop. Cove, famous for trout, and the station oi a government boat whica here watches the French fi.sheries. A road runs N. 7 M. from Shoe Cove to l.a Sue, on the French Shore (see Route 61) 212 Route 59. PLACENTIA BAY. 69. Placentia Bay Is included between Cape St. Mary and Cape Chapeau Eouge, and is 48 M. wide. Placentia is the capital of the eastern shore, and is a port of entry and post-town, 80 M. from St. John's by road. It is built along a level strand, overshadowed by round detached hills, and maintains a large fleet of fishing-boats. There are remarkable cliffs on Point Verde and Dixon Island, near the town; and the views from Signal Hill and Castle Hill extend far out over the bay. There is much romantic scenery along the narrow channels of the N. E. and S. E. Arms, which extend from tlie harbor in among the mountains. In the year 1660 Placentia Bay was entered by two French frigates, which sailed up into the harbor and landed a strong force of soldiers, with heavy artillery and other munitions. Here they erected a strong fort, occupying a point so near the channel that the Baron La Hon tan (who was detached for duty here) said that " ships going in graze (so to speak) upon the angle of the bastion." The French held this post until 1713, when it was surrendered, according to the terms of the treaty of Utrecht. The port became famous as the resort of the French privateers which were destroy- ing the English fisheries, and Commodore Warren was sent out (in 1692) with three 60-gun frigates and two smaller vessels to destroy the town. Warren ran in close to Placentia and opened fire, but was warmly received by the batteries at the en- trance and by Fort St. Louis. After a heavy cannonade of six hours' duration, the English fleet was forced to draw off. In 1696 Iberville gathered 14 war-vessels at Placentia, and having received 400 men of Quebec, sailed to the E. and overran all the Atlantic coast of Newfoundland, returning with 40-50 prize-ships and 600 prisoners. In 1697 the great French fleet, which (under Iberville) destrojed all the British posts on Hudson's Bay, gathered here. So much did the British dread the batteries of Placentia and the warlike enthusiasm of M de Costabelle, its com- mander, that Admiral Walker, anchored at Sydney, with a splendid fleet carrying 4,000 land-soldiers and 900 cannon, refused to obey his orders to reduce this little French fortress, and sailed back to Britain in disgrace. When France surrendered Newfoundland, in 1713, the soldiers and citizens of Placentia migrated to Cape Bre- ton ; and in 1744 a French naval expedition under M. de Brotz failed to recapture it from the British. This town afterwards became one of the chief ports of the Province ; but has of late years lost much of its relative importance. A road runs hence to St. John's in 80 M. ; also through the settlements on the S. to Distress Cove in 26 M. ; also S. W. 38 M. to Branch, on St. Mary's Bay. Little Placentia is on a narrow harbor 5 M. N. of Placentia, and has 383 inhabitants. Near this point is a bold peak of the western range in Avalon, from which 67 ponds are visible. The islands in the bay are visited from this point. Ram's Islands (133 inhabitants) are 10 M. dis- tant; Pted Island (227 inhabitants) is 12 M. W.; and about 18 M. distant is Merasheen Island, which is 21 M. long, and has on its W. coast the Ragged Islands, 365 in number. The great lead-mines at La Manche are 12 M. N. of Little Placentia, on the Isthmus of Avalon, 7 M. from Trinity Bay. At the head of the bay, 33 M. from Little Placentia, is the village of North Harborj near the great Powdei'-Horn Hills, and 7 M. beyond is Black River, famous for its wild-fowl and other game. Harbor Bitj^et is 16 M. from Little Placentia, on the lofty and indented Long Island, and has 333 inhabitants. Near the S. W. part of Placentia Bay is the town and port of Burin, a station of the Western Coastal steamers (see page 214). ST. MARY'S BAY. Route 60. 213 60. The Western Outports of Fewfonndland. — St. John's to Cape Eay. On aUcrnnte Thursdays or Fridays affer the arrival of the mails from Europe, the Western Coastal steamer leaves St. John's for the outports on the S. shore Fares. — St. John's to Ferrvlnnd, 10 s. ; Renewse, 10 s. : Trppassey, 17 s. 6 d. ; St. Mary's or Placentia, 20s. : Burin, 25s ; St. Lawrence, 27s. 6d. ; Gra,nd Bank, S5s. : St. Pierre, 82s 6d. ; Harbor Briton, 37s 6d ; Gaultois or Great Jervois, 37 s. 6d. : Burgeo, 45 s. ; La Poile, 47 s. 6d. ; Rose Blanche, 50s ; Channel, 55s. ; Sydney, 70 s. Meals are included. The trip out and back takes 10 to 12 days. St. John's to Cape Race, see Route 54. Passinor through the rocky portals of the harbor of St. John's, the steamer directs her course to the S. along the iron-bound Strait Shore. After visiting Ferryland and Renewse (see page 198), the Red Hills are seen in the W. ; and beyond the lofty bare summit of Cape Ballard, the dreaded cliffs of Gape Eace (page 199) are rounded well off shore. Off Freshwater Point the course is changed to N. W., and Trepassey Bay is entered. The shores are lofty and bare, and open to the sweep of the sea. 8^ M. from Freshwater Point is Powles Head, on whose W. side the harbor of Trepassey is sheltered. The town contains 514 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries, and fronts on a secure harbor which is never closed by ice. Roads lead hence to Salmonier (31 M ) and Renewse. In 1628 Lord Baltimore's ships of Avalon, the Benediction and the F/cZor?/, entered Trepassey Bay under full sail, bent on attacking the French settlement. The Bene- diction first greeted the fleet with several cannon-shot, after which she sent a terrific broadside among the vessels. The Basque sailors fled to the shore, and the Victory, lowering her boats, took possession of all the vessels in the harbor and bore them away as prizes. The town of Trepassey was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1702. The steamer now runs S. W. to and around Cape Pine, on which is a tall circular tower which upholds a fixed light 314 ft. above the sea, visible at a distance of 24 M. 1 M. W. N. W. is Cape Freels, a little beyond Avhich is St. Shot's Bay. This narrow shore between Cape Pine and St. Shot's is said to be the most danger- ous and destructive district on the North American coast, and has been the scene of hundreds of shipwrecks. The conflicting and variable currents in these waters set toward the shore with great force, and draw vessels inward upon the ragged ledges. In former years disasters were frequent here, but at present mariners are warned off by the Admiralty charts and the lights and whistles. St. Shot's is as dreaded a name on the N coast as CapeHatteras is in the southern sea. In 1816 the transport Harpooner was wrecked on Cape Pine, and 200 people were lost. St. Mary's Bay is bouoded by Cape Freels and Lance Point, and extends for 28 M. into the Peninsula of Avalon. On the E. shore is St. Mary^s, a court-house town and port of entry, situated on a deep land-locked harbor, and largely engaged in fishing. To the S. is the mountainous Cape English, near which a narrow sandy beach separates the bay from Holyrood Pond., a remarkable body of fresh water over 12 M. long. It is 65 M- by road from St. Mary's to St. John's ; and at 16 M. dis- tance the village of Salmonier is reached. This is a fishing and farming town near the outlet of the broad Salmonier River, famous for its great salmon. To the N. W., at the head of the bay, is some striking scenery, near Colinet Bay, where empties the Hodge-Water River, descending from the Quemo-Gospen Ponds, in the interior of Avalon. There are several small hamlets in this vicinity ; and Colinet is accessible by land from St. John's in 56 M. The W. shore of St. Mary's Bay is mountainous and rugged, and has no settlements of any consequence. •:it HoHUOf), FORTUNE r>AY. Be\*ond tho boM Crtp^ St. Mary the sto.unor runs to tho K. W. aojv^j^ tho AvKlo ontrnnoo to riHoonth\ Iviy (soo p;\j;v 212). At ulnnit HO M. t^vju Oapa St. Miivy tho sharply dotlmnl headland of Capo Ohapoau Hougt^ booomea vijiible; mwi the* harbor of Buviu i* entoi'od «t about 42 M. fttnn Cape St. Mary. This harbor is tho tinost in KowtonuvUand, and is shoUonnl by lsh\nvls \vhOs>;o oUtV-bonnd sho»vs aiv noarlv UOO tl. high. On IVdviinsi' Uoad is a h>»hthouso 4S0 t>. abovo tho soa, boarinj; n iVYolviiijj Up;ht whioh la visiblo tor 'S! M. StiU farthor up, and ahwost oittiivlv h»ud-lo«kod, is tho Tnirin lulot, Tho town ot' Uuriu has 1,850 inhabitants, and Is au important tradinjix^tation, sxippiviusj; n givat part of Tlaoontia Uay. Tho ai^jaoont soonory is of tho boUlost and most rujigod ohar.\otor, tho lot^y islands vvinj; with tho inhmd n\oiuUains. On loavinj; Uurin tl»o ooui'so is laid to tho S. \Y., passinji' tho lofty pivm- ontorios of Corbin Hoad, Millor Head, and Kod Uoad. Uovond tho tall s\»puMoaf on Soulpin Tohit tho doop harboi-s of l.ittlo and Oivat St. Law- tvnvo aiv soon opouing to tho r. ; and tho soa-ivsistingiwkof Cap^ Cha/xfou /f>'M«/t* is noxt j^i^ssod. This pvat landmark i>t>somblos in sluvpo the ennva of a hat, and is 748 t>. high, with shoor pi'ocipioos over SOO ft. high. Fwm this poii\t tlvo ovun-so is noarly stnvight for SS M., to St. Tion'O, runuiag well atr, but alwavs in sight of a bold and olovalod shoro. St. Pierre, soo pago 185. On leaving St. Pion^e the course is to the N., passing, In 6 M.» the low shoivs of ih-xen lalaml, and thon nuuung for a long distance botwoon tho Mivpiolou Islauvls and May and nauttio Points (on tho mainland), which a»v abou^ 13 M. apart. When about half-way aoiwss Fortune 1k\y, Rrnnot Island (v^ M. long) is passed, and on its K. point is soeu a lighthouse 40S t>. above tho sea, showing a tlasliing light for 35 M. at sea. M. boywid this point is Sag\Mia Island, witli its villagv of fishormou; ai\d 5 M. farthor N. the steamer enters Harbor Uritou. llei-e is an Anglican Yillag\> of about ^50 inhabitants, with an extensive local tnxde alou^ the shores of Fortvu\e Uay. The harbor is very sevMU*e and spacious, and runs far into the laiul. This town was settled iu lt>lt> by Welshmen, and was then named Fortune i?ay is ino\\>dtHl b«»tww« IVlnt May aixd Phss Ul»«d, anil te 85 M. 'wM<> ami 66 M. lowft. .F«»rUnio is ."» town of ovor 800 »nh;\bUants, svUvi»tt\t m\nr tlu> onti'aiKV of tho Ivtv, auil on tho I.huv.-iHuo »\>»il Its tMUM^iUv'' tov ohiotlv itovotcvl to tho tls-horit\<« »iul to ti'.ulinji' with 8t IMorw. S M. K, N. K. !uv tlvo hi^sjlilHiuls of r.H|H> Unuid Bmik, t\\nu N^hioh tho stunv tivuvls N. K. by tht> haudots of OaruijUi »ud Kivnotviuatx's Oovo to t\Mnt Vhu-«jiVo, Tl\o K. a«ul N sho»\>^s »xv Vi\>kou l\v Uo<>v ostu.HV»»>s, iu whioti aw Kwvatl t\.:~v ^. W. oornor aiv tho North and bUist l»ays, fan\ou>5 for hovnn>;-t\shoH<\<, whioh attmot lai'jtv^ tU^t^ts of Auioru-au vt\ls. On tti» W. shoiv i-< tl»o jn\v;jv»vus v\U,\^> of Ht>lIeort>ui, onc^j^ed in tlio owl and hon'ing t1shori«\<, .>*nd distant lv'> M. t\\nn H.tvbov l5vito>\ tuv\ds U'<*d f»vn» this {.nnnt to tht> \iU.«gt\s of Ivsrivw, lUuo IMnion, Oorbin, Kusi'iistv tlavKn- >V«\st, Ovxnvdvs' Oovt\ and St. .'aqntvs. flvo ottvor !t«>ttion»onts on tho W ,ly honuu«Hl iu tH>t wt><>i\ tXw luouutaius and tiio soa, ai\vl aiv visit«\l by Kvkts tl\xuv Harbor BURGEO. Route GO. 215 Hermitage Bay is an extensive bight of the sea to the N. of Pass Island. Its principal (own is Uermiluife Cove, an Anj^lican Bettlenient 9 M. from Harbor britoQ. N. ot'tlio l*.'iy JH liOiiK iKlaiiii, wliicli is ii5 iM. around, and HliclLern the IJay of J>e- ep'.iir, fanioiiH lor itH prolific Halnion-Ii^lierics. From tlic iiead of tlii.s bay Jndiaa trails Icatl inland to Lon{^ I'ond, Hound I'ond, and a ^reat cluKter of unvif-ited lakes situauid in a land of forests ;j,nd mountains. From tlie farther end of these inland waters diveri;c the great trails to the lUver of Exijloits and liall's liay. After running out to the S. W. between Sagona Island and Connaigro Head, the course is laid along the comparatively straight coast called tho Western Shore, extending from Fortune Bay to Cape Kay. Crossing the ■wide cstaary of Hermitage Bay, the bold highlands of Cape La Hune are approached, 12 M. N. of the Penguin Islands. About 25 M. W. of Cape La Hune the steamer passes the liamea Islands, of which the isle called Columbe is remarkable for its height and boldness. There is a fishing- community located here ; and the August herrings are held as very choice. The old marine records report of the Ramea Isles : " In which isles are so great abundance of the huge and miglitie Bea-oxon with great teeth in the moneths of April, May, and June, that there haue been lifteeue huudreth killed there by one Buiall barke in the yecre IG'Jl-" In 1597 the EngliKh ship Hopewell entered the harbor of Ramea and tried to plunder the French vesKels there of their stores and powder, but was forced by a shore-battery to leave incontinently. About 9 M. W. N. W. of Ramea Columbe, the steamer enters the har- bor of Burgeo, a port of entry and trading-station of 650 inhabitants, sit- uated on one of the Burgeo Isles, which here form several small, snug harbors. This town is the most important on the Western Shore, and is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 3 M. distant is Upper Burrjeo, built on the grassy sand-banks of a small islet; and 7 M. N. is the salmon-fishery at Grandy's Brook, on the line of the N. Y., N. F. and London Telegraph. Beyond the Burgeo Isles the course is laid along the Western Shore, and at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand Bruit Bay are seen. 5 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into La Poile Bay, a narrow arm of the sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. The vessel ascends 3 M. to La Poile (Little Bay), a small and decadent fishing-village on the W. shore. The distance from La Poile to Channel, the last port of call, is 30 M,, and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Garia Bay is 5-6 M. W. of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situated amid picturesque scenery and surrounded by forests. Rose Blanche is midway betweea La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry with nearly 500 inhabitants, situated on a small and snug harbor among the mountains. It has a con- siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M. beyond Rose Blanche are the Burnt Islands, and 3 M. farther on are the Dead Islands. At 8-10 M. inland are seen the dark and desolate crests of the Long- Range Mountains, sheltering the Codroy Valley. 216 Route 61. PORT AU BASQUE. The I>ead Islands (Frencli, Les Isles aux Morts) are so named on account of the many fatal wrecks which have occurred on their dark rocks. The name was given after the loss of an emigrant-ship, when the islands were so fringed with human corpses that it took a gang of men five days to bury them. George Harvey formerly lived on one of the islands, and saved hundreds of lives by boldly putting out to the wrecked ships. About 1830 the Dispatch struck on one of the isles. &he was full of immigrants, and her boats could not live in the heavy gale which was rapidly breaking her up. But Harvey pushed out in his row-boat, attended only by his daughter (17 years old) and a boy 12 years old. He landed every one of the passengers and crew (1G3 in number) safely, and fed them for three weeks, inso- much that his family had nothing but fish to eat all winter after. In 1838 the Glasgow ship Rankin struck a rock off the isles, and went to pieces, the crew cling- ing to the stern-rail. In spite of the heavy sea, Harvey rescued them all (25 in number), by making four trips in his puut. " The whole coast between La Poile and Cape Eay seerns to have been at one time or other strewed with wrecks, Every house is surrounded with old rigging, spars, masts, sails, ships' bells, rudders, wheels, and other matters. The houses too contain telescopes, compasses, and por- tions of ships' furniture." (Prof. Jukes.) Channel (or Port au Basque) is 8-4 M. W. of the Dead Isles, and 30 M. from La Poile. It is a port of entry and a transfer-station of the N. Y., N. F. and London Telegraph Company, and has nearly 600 inhabitants, with an Anglican church and several mercantile establishments. The fisheries are of much importance, and large quantities of halibut are caught in the vicinity. A few miles to the W. is the great Table 3It., over Cape Ray, beyond which the French Shore turns to the N. A schooner leaves Port au Basque every fortnight, on the arrival of the steamer from St. John's, and carries the mails N. to St. George's Bay, the Bay of Islands, and Bonne Bay (see Route 61). The steamer, on every alternate trip, runs S. W. from Channel to Syd- ney, Cape Breton. The course is across the open sea, and no land is seen, after the mountains about Cape Ray sink below the horizon, until the shores of Cape Breton are approached. Sydney, see page 150. 61. The French Shore of Newfoundland. — Cape Eay to Cape St. John. It is not likely that any tourists, except, perhaps, a tew adventurous yachtsmen, will visit this district. It is destitute of hotels and roads, and has only one short and infrequent mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely scattered fishing-viilages, inhabited by a rude and hardy class of mariners ; and no form of local government has ever been established on any part of the shore. But the Editor is reluctant to pass over such a vast extent of the coast of the Maritime Provinces without some brief notice, especially since this district is in many of its features so unique. The Editor was unable, owing to the lateness of the season, to visit the Erench Shore in person, but has been aided in the preparation of the following notes, both by gentlemen who have traversed the coast and the inland lakes, and by various statistics of the Province. It is therefore believed that the ensuing itinerary is correct in all its main features. The distances have been verified by comparison with the British Admiralty charts. The French Shore may be visited by the trading-schooners which run from port to port throughout its whole extent during the summer season. The most interest- ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au Basque (Channel) fortnightly, and runs N. to Bonne Bay, touching aU along the coast. CAPE RAY. Route 61. 217 The 'French. Sliore extends from Cape St. John (N. of Notre Dame Ba}') around the N. and VV". coasts of the island to Cape Ray, including the richest val- leys and fairest soil of Newfoundland. It is nearly exempt from fogs, borders on the most prolific fishing-grounds, and is called the "Garden of Newfoundland." By the treaties of 1713, 1763, and 1783, the French received the right to catch and cure fish, and to erect huts and stages along this entire coast, — a concession of which they have availed themselves to the fullest extent. There are several Eriti.sh colonies along the shore, but they live without law or magistrates, since the home government believes that such appointments would be against the spirit of the treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority is that which is given by courtesy to the resident clergymen of the settlements. It is 9 M. from Channel to Cape Ray, where the French Shore begins. The dis- tances from this point are given as between harbor and harbor, and do not represent the straight course from one outport to another at a great distance. Cape Ray to Codroy,13 M. ; Cape Anguille, 18 (Crabb's Brook, 45; Middle Branch, 60 ; Robinson's Point, 55 ; Flat Bay, 57 ; Sandy Point, 65 ; Indian Head, 75) ; Cape St George, 54 ; Port au Port (Long Point), 84 ; Bay of Islands, 108 ; Cape Gregory, 125; Bonne Bay, 140 ; Green Cove, 147 ; Cow Harbor, 158 ; Portland Bill, 176 ; Bay of Ingornachoix (Point Rich), 206 ; Portau Choix, 208 ; Point Ferolle, 220 : Flower Cove, 245 ; Savage Cove, 249- ; Sandy Bay, 250; Green Island. 255; Cape Norman, 285 ; Pistolet Island, 292 ; Noddy Harbor, 306 ; Quirpon (Cape Bauld), 310 ; Griguet Bay, 321; St. Lunaire, 326; Braha Bay, 33) ; St. Anthony, 333; Goose Harbor (Hare Bay). 340; Harbor deVeau, 348 ; St. Julien, 353 ; Croque,358; Conche, 373; Canada Bay, 387 ; Great Harbor Deep, 410 ; La Fleur de Lis, 432 ; La Scie, 455 ; Cape St. John, 460. * Cape Ray is the S. W. point of NeAvfoundland, and is strikingly pic- turesque in its outlines. 3 M. from the shore rises a great table-moun- tain, with sides 1,700 ft. high and an extensive plateau on the summit. Nearer the sea is the Sugar Loaf, a symmetrical conical peak 800 ft. high, N. of which is the Tolt Peak, 1,280 ft. high. These heights may be seen for 50 M. at sea, and the flashing light on the cape is visible at night for 20 M. From this point St. Paul's Island bears S. W. 42 M., and Cape North is W. by S. 57 M. (see page 160). Soon after passing out to the W. of Cape Eay, Cape Angidlle is seen on the N., — a bold promontory nearly 1,200 ft. high. Between these capes is the valley of the Gi^eat Codroy River, with a farming population of several hundred souls ; and along its course is the mountain-wall called the Long Range, stretching obliquely across the island to the shores of White Bay. St. George's Bay extends for about 50 M. inland, and its shores are said to be very rich and fertile, abounding also in coal. The scenery about the hamlet of Crabb's Brook "forms a most lovely and most Eng- lish picture." There are several small hamlets around the bay, of which Sandy Point is the chief, having 400 inhabitants and 2 churches. The people are rude and uncultured, fond of roaming and adventure ; but the moral condition of these communities ranks high in excellence, and great defei-ence is paid to the clergy. The Micmac Indians are often seen in this vicinity, and are partially civilized, and devout members of the Catholic Church. The country to the E. is mountainous, merging into wide grassy plains, on which the deer pass the winter season, roaming about the icy levels of the great interior lakes. 10 218 Route 61. GRAND POND. Grand Pond, is usually (and rarely) visited from St. George's Bay. After as- cending the broad sound at the head of the bay for about 10 M. , a blind forest-path is entered, and the Indian guides lead the -way to the N. E. over a vast expanse of moss (very uncomfortable travelling). The Hare-Head Hills are passed, and after about 15 M. of arduous marching, the traveller reaches the Grand Pond. "And a beautiful sight it was. A narrow strip of blue water, widening, as it proceeded, to about 2 M. , lay between bold rocky precipices covered with wood, and rising almost directly from the water to a height of 5-600 ft., having bare tops a little farther back at a still greater elevation." The Bay Indians keep canoes on the pond, and there are several wigwams on the shores. Game and fish are abundant in these woods and waters, since it is but once in years that the all-slaying white man reaches the pond, and the prudent Indians kill only enough for their own actual needs. There is a lofty island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and ravine-like channels of the pond, with an enormous depth of water. The route to Hall's Bay (see page 211) leads up the river from the N. E. corner of the pond for about 35 M., passing through four lakes. From the uppermost pond the canoe is carried for J M. and put into the stream which empties into Hall's Bay. 3 M. W. of the inlet ot this river into Grand Pond is the outlet of Junction Brook, a rapid stream which leads to the Humber River and Deer Pond in 8 - 10 M., and is passable by canoes, with frequent portages. Near the N. end of Grand Pond, about the year 1770, occurred a terrible battle between the Micmacs and the Red Indians, which resulted in the extermination of the latter nation. The Micmacs were a Catholic tribe from Nova Scotia, who had moved over to Newfoundland, and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the Red Indians, or Bceothics. In the great battle on Grand Pond the utmost deter- mination and spirit were shown by the Bceothics, invaded here in their innermost retreats. But they had only bows and arrows, while the Micmacs were armed with guns, and at the close of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Red Indians of this section was left alive. This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), alternating with '' the barrens," — vast tracts which are covered with thick moss. Gov Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- laid with luxuriant soil, while fcr the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- toes there is " no country out of England or Egypt superior to it." The intense and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preclude agriculture on a large scale. These inland sohtudes are adorned, during the short hot summer, with many brilliant flowers. Among these are great numbers of wild rnses, violets, iri.-es, pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-hair, and vividly colored lichens ; while (says Sir R. Bonnycastle) " in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness." The only white man who ever yet crossed these lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchman named Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay, in 1822. He was ac- companied by a Micmac Indian, and the trip took several weeks. The maps of Newfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and hypothetical lakes. The British Aduiiralty chart of Newfoundland (Southern Por- tion) omits most of these, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of the lakes and hills N. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian Pond, and River of Ex- ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. Cape St. George thrusts a huge line of precipices into the sea, and 5 AI. beyond is Red Island, surrounded by dark red cliffs. 25 M. farther to the N. E. is the entrance to Port au Fort, a great double harbor of noble capacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. wide, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. The * Bay of Islands affords some of the finest scenery in the Province, and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and produce. Limestone, gypsum, and fine marble are found here in large quantities. There are about 1,000 inhabitants about the bay, most of whom are engaged in the herring-fishery. HUMBER RIVER. Route 61. 219 At the head of the bay is the mouth of the HnmTber River, the largest river iu Newfoundland. In the last 18 M. of its course it is known as the Humber Sound, and is 1 -2 M. wide and 50-60 fathoms deep, with lofty and rugged hills on either side. Great quantities of timber are found on these shores, and the trout and sal- mon fisheries are of considerable value. The river tlows into the head of the sound in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer Pond. Occa- sion al cabins and clearings are seen along the shores, inhabited by bold and hardy pioneers. 3 ML. above the head of the sound there is a rapid 1 M. long, up which boats are drawn by lines. Here " the scenery is highly striking and picturesque, — lofty cliffs of pure white limestone rising abruptly out of the woods to a height of 3 -400 ft, and being themselves clothed with thick wood round their sides and over their summits." Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow for 6 M. above the rapids, where another series of rapids is met, above which are the broad waters of *I>eer Pond, 2-3 M. wide and 15 M. long. Here is the undis- turbed home of deer and smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers. A few Micuiac Indians still visit these solitudes, and their wigwams are seen on the low savannas of the shore. (See also pages 211 and 218) " Beyond the forest-covered hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and larger than Lake George, the cold clear waters of which flow to the bay under the name of the river Humber. It has a valley like Wyoming, and more romantic scenery than the Susquehanna. The Bay of Islands is also a bay of streams and in- lets, an endless labyrinth of cliffs and woods and waters, where the summer voyager would delight to wander, and which is worth a volume sparkling with pictures." Bonne Bay is 23 M. N. E. of the Bay of Islands, and is a favorite resort of American and Provincial fishermen. Great quantities of herrhig are caught in this vicinity. The mountains of the coast-range closely ap- proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect ; and the rivers which empty into the bay may be followed to the vicinity of the Long Range. The coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M. is straight, with the slight indentations of the Bay of St. Paul and Cow Bay. The Bay of Ingorna- choix has comparatively low and level shores, with two excellent har- bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lighthouse containing a white flashing-light which is visible for 18 M. ; and 2 M. E. is the fishing-station oi Port au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, and receives the River of Castors, flowing from an unknown point in the interior, and abounding in salmon. " What a region for romantic excursions ! Yonder are wooded mountains with a sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the River Castor, flowing from a country almost unexplored ; and here are green isles spotting the' sea, — the islands of St. John. Behind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, the extremes of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A month would not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, through which wind the deserted trails of the Red Indians, now extinct or banished." The Bay of St. John is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are the stations oi Nexo Ferolle and Old Ferolle. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few score of inhabitants, is Flower Cove, containing a small hamlet and an Episcopal church. The great sealing-grounds of the N. shore are next traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild grain. 220 Route 61. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. The Strait of Belle Isle. The Strait of Belle Isle is now entered, and on the N. is the lofty and barren shore of Labrador (or, if it be night, the fixed light on Point Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Red Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone cliffs of the New- foundland shore are now followed to the N. E., and at 30 M. beyond Green Island, Cape Norman is reached, with its revolving light upheld on the bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly point of Newfoundland. The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Norman, and soon after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon is approached. This place is situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees N. of St. John's, and is devoted to the sealing business. It has an Episcopal church and cemetery. Multi- tudes of seals are caught off" this point, in the great current which sets from the remote N. into the Strait of Belle Isle. Hundreds of icebergs may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the sti'ait. In front of Quirpon are the cold highlands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cape Bauld is the N. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly point of the Province. 14 M. N. of Cape Bauld, and midway to the Labrador shore, is Belle Isle, in the entrance of the strait. It is 9>^ M. long and 3 M. broad, and is utterly barren and unprofitable. On its S. point is a lonely lighthouse, 470 ft. above the sea, sustuiu- ing a fixed white light which is visible for 28 M. During the dense and blinding snow-storms that often sweep over the strait, a cannon i« fired at regular intervals ; and large deposits of provisions are kept here for the use of shipwrecked mariners. Between Dec. 15 and April 1 there is no light exhibited, for the^e northern seas are then deserted, save by a few daring seal-hunters. There is but one point where the island can be approached, which is l)^ M. from the lighthouse, and here the stores are landed. There is not a tree or even a bush on the island, and coal is imported from Quebec to warm the house of the keeper, — who, though visited but twice a year, is happy and contented. The path from the landing is cut through the moss- covered rock, and leads up a long and steep ascent. In the year 1527 "a Canon of St. Paul in London, which was a great mathemati- cian, and a man indued with wealth," sailed for the New World with two ships, which were fitted out by King Henry VIII. After they had gone to the westward for many days, and had passed " great Hands of Ice," they reached " the mayne land, all wilderuesse and mountaines and woodes, and no naturall ground but all mosse, and no habitation nor no people in these parts." They entered the Strait of Belle Isle, and then " there arose a great and a maruailous great storme, and much foul weather," during which the ships were separated. The captain of the Manj of Guilford wrote home concerning his consort-ship : " I trust in Almightie Jesu to hears good newes of her"; but no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the strait, with all on board. The islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called the Isles of Demons in the remiote past, and the ancient maps represent them as covered with " devils ram- pant, with wings, horns, and tails." They were said to be fascinating but malicious, and Andre Thevet exorcised them from a band of stricken Indians by repeating a part of the Gospel of St. John. The mariners feared to land on these haunted shores, and '' when tliey passed this way, they heard in the air, on the tops and about the masts, a great chtmor of men's voices, confused and inarticulate, such as you may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place ; whereupon they well knew that the Isle of Demons was not far off." The brave but superstitious Normans dared not land on the Labrador without the crucifix in hand, believing that those gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible griffins. These quaint legends STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. Route 61. 221 undoubtedly had a good foundation. In July, 1873, the coasts of the Strait of Belle Isle were ravaged by bands of immense wolves, who devoured several human beings and besieged the settlements for weeks. An ancient MS. of 1586 relates a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- pany on the fleet which was conducted through the Straits to Quebec in 1542, were the Lady Marguerite, niece of the Viceroy of New France, and her lover. Their conduct was such as to have "scandalized the fleet, and when they renched the Isle of Demons, Roberval, enraged at her shameles.sness, put her on shore, with her old nurse. The lover leaped from the ship and joined the women, and the fleet sailed away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell began their assaults on the forsaken trio, tearing about their hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting them in the foi'est. But the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. Long thereafter lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke of her fire, and rescued her, after two years of life among demons. From Cape Bauld the coast runs S. by the French sealing-stations of Griguet, St. Lunaire, Braha, and St. Anthony, to the deep indentation of Hare Bay, which is 18 M. long and 6 M. wide. A short distance to the S. is the fine harbor of Croque, a favorite resort for the French fleets and a coaling-station for the steamers. The back country is dismal to the last degree. To the S. E. are the large islands of Groais (7 X 3^ M. in area)and Belle Isle (9x6 M.). Running now to the S. W. by Cape Rouge and Botitot, Conche Harbor is seen on the starboard bow, and Canada. Bay is opened on the W. This great bay is 12 M. long, and is entered through an intricate passage called the Narrows beyond which it widens into a safe and capacious basin, 'i'he shores are sohtary' and de- serted, and far inland are seen the great hill-ranges cahed The Clouds. 7 M. to the S. W. is the entrance to Hooping Harbor, and 5 M. farther S. is Fourchette 12 M. beyond which is Great Harbor Deep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth of water that vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the W. entrance of White Bay, and is 16 M. from Partridge Point, the E. entrance. White Bay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10-15 M. wide. It is very deep, and has uo islands except such as are close in shore. The fisheries are car- ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, Jackson's Arm Chouse Brook, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Gove, and Lobster Harbor are small settlements of resident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head of the bay, 60 M. by boat from La Scie. On the highlands to the W and S of U'hite Bay are the haunts of the deer, which are usually entered from Hall's Bay or Green Bay. 3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fleur de Lis harbor, so named from the simulation of the royal flower by a group of three hills near its head. Running thence to the E., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight open on the starboard side, and on the port bow are the St. Barbe, or Horse Islands. About 20 M. from La Fleur de Lis is La Scie, the last settle ment on the French Shore, with its three resident families. A road leads S. 7 M. fi-om this point to Shoe Cove, on the Bay of Notre Dame (see page 211); and 5 M. E. of La Scie is * Cape St. John, the boundary of the French Shore on the Atlantic. " The Cape is in fuh view, a promontory of shaggy precipices, suggestive of all the fiends of Pandemonium, rather than the lovely Apostle whose name has been gib- beted on the black and dismal crags As we bear down toward the Cape, we pass Gull Isle, a mere pile of naked rocks dehcately wreathed with lace-like mists. Imagine the last hundred feet of Conway Peak, the very finest of the New-Hampshire mountain-tops, pricking above the waves, and you wiU see this little outpost and 222 Route 61. ■ CAPE ST. JOHN. breakwater of Cape St. John." (Noble.) The Cape presents by far the grandest scenery on the E. coast of Newfoundland, and is an unbroken wall of black rock, 4-600 ft. high and 5 M. long, against whose immediate base the deep sea sweeps. * ' Of the landes of Labrador and Baccalaos, lying West and North-west from Englande, and bei^ge parte of the firme lande of the AVest Indies. " Many haue traualyed to search the coast of the lande of Laborador, as well to the intente to knowe howe farre or whyther it reachethe, as also whether there bee any passage by sea throughe the same into the Sea of Sur and the Islandts of Maiuca, which are under the Equinoctiall hue : thinkynge that the waye thy ther shulde greatly bee shortened by this vyage. The Spanyardes, as to whose ryght the sayde islandes of spices perteyne, dyd fyrst seeke to fynde the same by this way. The Portiigales also hauynge the trade of spices in theyr handes, dyd trauayle to fynde the same : although hetherto neyther anye suche pas-sage is founde or the ende of that lande. In the yeare a thousande and fine hundredth, Gaspar Cortesreales made a vyage thyther with two carauelles ; but found not the streyght or passage he sought He greatly maruayled to beholde the houge quantitie of snowe and ise. For the sea is there frosen excedyngly. Thinhabitauntes are men of good corporature, al- though tawny like the Indiess, and laborious. They paynte theyr bodyes, and weare braselettes and hoopes of syluer and copper. Theyr apparel is made of the skynnes of marternes and dyvers other beastes, whiche they weare with the heare inwarde in wynter, and outwarde in soommer. This apparell they gyrde to theyr bod3es with gyrdels made of cotton or the synewes of fysshes and beastes. They eate fysshe more than any otlier thynge, and especially salmons, althoughe they have foules and frute. They make theyr houses of timber, whereof they haue great plentie : and in the steade of tyles, couer them with the skynnes of fysshes and beastes. It is said also that there are grifes in this land : and that the beares and many other beastes and foules are white. To this and the islandesaboute the same, the Biitons are accustomed to resorte : as men of nature agreeable vnto them, and born vuder the same altitude and temperature. The Norways al.-o sa} ltd thyther with the pylot cauled John Seoluo: and the Englyshe men with Sebastian Cabot. " The coaste of the lande of Baccalaos is a greate tracte, and the altitude thereof is xlviii degrees and a halfe. Sebastian Cabot was the fyrst that browght any knowl- eage of this land. For being in Englande in the dayes of Kyng Henry the Seuenth, hefurnyshed two shippes at his owne charges or (as some say) at the kynges, whom he persuaded that a passage might bee found to Cathay by the North Seas, and that spices myght bee browght from thense soner by that way, then by the vyage the Portugales vse by the Sea of Sur. He went also to knowe what maner of landes those Indies were to inhabite. He had withe hym 300 men, and directed his course by the tracte of islande uppon the Cape of Laborador at Iviii degrees : afiirn.ynge that in the monethe of July there was such could and heapes of ise that he durst passe no further : also that the dayes were very longe, and in maner withowt nyght, and the nyghtes very cleare. Certeyne it is, that at the Ix degrees, the longest day is of xviii houres. But consyderynge the coulde and the straungeness of the un- knowne lande, he turned his course from thense to the West, folowynge the coast of the land of Baccalaos vnto the xxxviii degrees, from whense he returned to Eng- lande. To conclude, the Brytons and Danes have sayled to the Baccalaos ; aud Jacques Cartier, a Frenchman, was there twyse with three galeons. " Of these lands Jacobus Bastaldus wryteth thus : ' The Newe land of Baccalaos is a coulde region, whose inhabytauntes are idolatours, and praye to the soone and moone and dyvers idoles. They are whyte people, and very rustical. For they eate flesshe and fysshe and all other thynges rawe. Sumtymes also they eate mans fiesshe priuilye, so that theyr Caciqui have no knowleage thereof. The apparell of both the men and women is made of beares skynnes, although they have sables and marternes, not greatly esteemed because they are lyttle. Some of them go naked in soomer, and weare apparell only in wynter Northwarde from the region of Baccalaos is the land of Laborador, all full of mountaynes and great woodes, in whiche are manye beares and wylde boares. Thinhabitauntes are idolatoures and warlike people, apparelled as are they of Baccalaos. In all this newe lande is neyther citie or castell, but they lyve in companies lyke heardes of beastes.' " LABEADOE Is the great peninsular portion of North America which lies to the N. and N. W. of Newfoundland, and is limited by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the ocean, and Hudson's Bay. It extends from about 50° N. latitude to 60"^, and the climate is extremely rigorous, the mean temperature at Nain being 32" 6'. The land is covered with low mountains and barren plateaus, on which are vast plains of moss interspersed with rocks and bowlders. There are no forests, and the inland region is dotted with lakes and swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smaller game; but their number is small and decreasing. The rivers and lakes swarm with fish, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fishei-ies of cod and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are engaged in the Labra- dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The commercial establishments here are connected with the great firms of England and the Channel Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily dwindling away, and probably consists of 4,000 souls. "The coast of Labrador is the edge of a vast solitude of rocky hills, split and blasted by the frosts, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown ages. Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken is visible along its almost interminable shores. A grand headland, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north of you, one to the south. Here and there upon them are stripes and patches of pale green, — mosses, lean grasses, and dwarf shrubbery. Occasionally, miles of precipice front the sea, in which the fency may roughly shape all the structures of human art, —castles, palaces, and temples. Im- agine an entire side of Broadway piled up solidly, one, two, three hundred feet in height, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great Atlantic rollers, rush- ing into the churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thundering through the door- ways, dashing in at the windows, sweeping up the lofty fronts, twisting the very cornices with silvery spray, falling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of sil- very foam ; and yet, all this imagined, can never reach the sentiment of these precipices. More frequent than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the sea-slopes, often bald, tame, and wearisome to the eye, now and then the perfection of all that is picturesque and rough, — a precipice gone to pieces, its softer por- tions dissolved down to its roots, its flinty bones left standing, a savage scene that scares away all thoughts of order and design in nature This is the rosy time of Labrador (July). The blue interior hilJs, and the stony vales that wind up among them from the sea, have a summer-liice and pleasant air. I find myself peopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild shores with human habitations. A second thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men toil in the fields away there ; no women keep the house off there ; there no children play by the brooks or shout around the country school-house ; no bees come home to the hive ; no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney ; no orchard blooms ; no bleating sheep fleck the mountain-sides with whiteness, and no heifer lows in the twilight. There is nobody there j there never was but a miserable and scat- 224 Route 62. BATTLE HARBOR. tered few, and there never will be. It is a great and terrible wilderness of a thou- sand miles, and lonesome to the very wild animajs and birds. Left to the still vis- itation of the light from the sun, moon, and stars, and the auroral fires, it is only fit to look upon and then be given over to its primeval solitariness. But for the living things of its waters, — the cod, the salmon, and the seal, — which bring thou- sands of adventurous fishermen and traders to its bleak shores, Labrador would be as desolate as Greenland. " For a few days the woolly flocks of New England would thrive in Labrador. During these few days there are thousands of her fair daughters who would love to tend them. I prophesy the time is coming when the invalid and tourist from the States will be often found spending the brief but lovely summer here, notwithstand- ing its ruggedness and desolation." (Rev. L. L. Noble.) " Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's bank ; Cold on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dauk ; Through storm, and wave, and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. " The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms. Bent grimly o'er their sti-aining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home." John G. Whittier. 62. The Atlantic Coast of Labrador, to the Moravian Mis- sions and Greenland. The mail-steamer Hercules leaves Battle Harbor fortnightly during the sum- mer. Battle Harbor is a sheltered roadstead between the Battle Islands and Great Caribou Island, ^ M. long and quite narrow. It is a great resort for fishermen, whose vessels crowd the harbor and are moored to the bold rocky shores. Small houses and stages occupy every point along the sides of the roadstead, and the place is very lively during the fishing sea- son. On the W. is Great Caribou Island, which is 9 M. around, and the steep-shored S. E. Battle Island is the easternmost land of the Labrador coast. The water is of great depth in this vicinity, and is noted for its wonderful ground-swell, which sometimes sweeps into St. Lewis Sound in Ihies of immense waves during the calmest days of autumn, dashing high over the islets and ledges. An Episcopal church and cemetery were con- secrated here by Bishop Field in 1850, and the ne])hew of Wordsworth (the poet) was for some years its rector. The first Esquimaux convert was baptized in 1857. Fox Harbor is 3 - 4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St. Lewis Sound, and is an Esquimaux village v/ith igloes, kayaks, and other curious things pertaining to this unique people There is a wharf, projecting into the nai-row hai-bor( which resembles a mountain-lake); and the houses are clustered about a humble little Episcopal church. " Caribou Island fronts to the N. on the bay 5 -6 M ,1 should think, and is a rugged mountain-pile of dark grav rock, rounded in its upper masses, and slashed along its shores with abrupt chasms. It drops short off, at its eastern extremity, into a narrow gulf of deep water. This is Battle Harbor. The billowy pile of igneous rock, perhaps 250 ft high, lying between this quiet water and the broad Atlantic, ia Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky isle, SANDWICH BAY. Route 62. 225 bombarded by the ocean, and flayed by the sword of fh« hio.f f .^ . year, is a little paradise of beauty. There are fipS= L ^'* ^°'' """"^^^ ^° ^^e neath the foot, with beds of such delicSe flowerl «M.°''''fJ '^"P"' *^^* '^^^^ be- never seen such fairy loveliness as Tfinrl i!! ?^-^ ?®^'^''°' ''^^^ I liave seen.s to have beeu^playSg a siiLrSLd rZ? *'''? ^'tf ^"^"'' ^^''^ ^^t'^^e and spotted with blood-red stainrrarnl? .k ^'',*^ ^ ''^^^^ "^o^^''^'". ankle-deep hollows. AV-onderfuUo So d ' flowerf nh^k'lT' f'^.^ ^^"/.' ^=^^*^^ ^^^ cradle-lik? countless as dew-drops, and breatheTut m on tu!^""^'^^- ^f °'^' """"^^ ^""^ ^lue, are .... Little gorges and'chaLs, oveXno^wMin.Sn '''' "'■"■ °^^°^'' '° ^P^nWike. fmm the sunamits down to meet the waves aSdarJ^^^^^^^ ""Xrtl' ^^'""^ gracefully them, with all bloom and sweetness, a kLrofwUd greenCse; '' ""' '""^ '"^ ^^^'"^ _ The course is laid from Battle Harbor N. across St. Lewis Sound ^-hich . 4 M wKle and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is th st L t Kner, which contans myriads of salmnn^ Po..- ^u i , ^ ^>- ^^\ms hills (500 ft. hio-h) of Cane St WiiT . ^"^ ^' ^'"'^ ^"^ ^"^^^^ but secure have of 9. l ^'^^'\^^'" ^'^^^^e^' ^^o^i reaches the small Duc secure haven of Spear Harbor, where a short ston is mndp Ti,n ,. ^ port is at S. Francis Ha.ior, which is on Gral^hy^I L i„ ihe est" .^ of the deep and navigable Alexis Eiver. An Episcopal church is beat d tape St. Alichael is next seen on fhp W n t\t „i % ^ ^ wi..>its»„„„tai„o„s p,.o,n„nt„ "shri-; „"isti:fXfirB:^ yond the dark and rngged Square Island is°the mail-por „fl,l7AW Crossmg now the mouth of St. Michael's Bav, and passing Cape Bluff (wh,ch may be seen for 60 M. at sea), the st;amer ,Lt stops 'between Fe, «,« Istand and the gloomy cliffs beyond. Running next to the N on tl,e outs.de of a great archipelago, tlie highlands of Partridge Bay are Slowly passed, j^ "^'^ . ^ The Seal Islands are 24 M. N. E. of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. beyond IS Spotted Island, distinguished by several white spots on its lofty dark ciitts. To the E. is the great Island of Ponds, near which is Batteau Har- bor a ma.l-port at which a call is made. The next station is at Indian uckie, which IS a narrow roadstead between Indian Island and the high- lands of Mulgrave Land. Stopping next at S. E. Cove, the course is kid irom thence to Indian Harbor, on the W. side of Huntington Island This island IS 7 M. long, and shelters the entrance to Saiidwicli Bay (the E.qui- n.au^ NeisluMe), which is 6-9 M. wide and 54 M. deep, with 13-40 fathoms of water. There are many picturesque islands in this bav, and on the xN[ shore are the Mealy Mts., reaching an altitude of 1,482 ft.' On the r„;, . T^ t^ '"'^ ^''' ^'""^''^ ^"^^' ^^'^"^ «^I'^«"; -"d East River numberlf \ '^"" ''^' ^'"'"^ '^"^ ^ ^^^^ '^^^ -here immense numbers of salmon, trout, and pike may be found. 4 M. from the mouth ot East River is the small settlement o{ Paradise. foo''tLKThVs'*'-KftL';TidThinl^^ ^-* -^ "^ b°^d wooded With spruce £ ^t^sl^^l^ ^dSse*? 1- ^^^^^^^^^ 10* ^ 226 Route 62. MORAVIAN MISSIONS. of bold blufl^ whose shadows seemed ahnost to meet midway in the narrow channel that separated them. Through this gi-and gloomy portal there was an unbroken vista for miles, until the channel made an abrupt turn that hid the water from view ; but the great gorge continued on beyond till it was lost in blue shadow." On the N. shore of the Narrows is the Hudson's Bay Company's post of Kigolette, occiipying the site of an older French tradiug-stivtion. At the head of the Narrows is Melville Lake, a great iulanti sea, all along whose S. shore are the weird and won- derful volcanic peaks of the lofty Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. W. of Rigolette, by this route, is the H. B. Company's post of Norwest, situated a little way up the N. W. Kiver, near great spruce forests. This is the cuief trading-post of the Moun- taineers, a tribe of the great Cree nation of the West, and a tall, graceful, and spir- ited people. In 1S40 they first opened communication with the whites. It was this tribe, which, issuing from the interior highlands in resistless forays, nearly exter- minated the Esquimaux of the coast. 800 M. from Fort Norwest is Fort Nascopie, situated on the Heights of Land, f:\r in the dark and solitary interior. In that vicin- ity ai'e the Grand Falls, which the voya^eurs claim are 1.000 ft. high, but Factor M'Lean says are 400 ft. high, — and below them the broad river flashes down through a canon 300 ft. deep, for over 30 M. 300 M. from Fort Nascopie are the shores of Ungiiva Bay. (The Esquimaux-Bay district is well described in an article by Charles Hallock, Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXII.) The Moravians state that the Esquimaux are a proud and enterprising people, low in stature, with coarse features, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The men are expert in fishing, catching seals, and managing the light and graceful boat called the kaijak, which outrides the rudest surges of the sea ; while the women are skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the country is covered with snow and ice for a great part of the year. Thej' call them- selves Innuits ("men"), the term Esquimaux (meaning "eaters of raw flesh") being applied to them by the hostile tribes to the W. On the 500 M. of the Atlantic coast of Labrador there are about 1,000 of these people, most of whom have been converted by the Moravians. They live about tlie missions in winter, and assemble from the remotest points to celebrate the mysteries, of the Passiou ^\'eek in the churches. They were heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- vian Brethren occupied the coast under permission of the British Crown. They wei*e formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the Mountaineers of the interior and by the ravages of the small-pox. The practice of polygamy has ceased amoug the tribes, and their marriages are celebrated by the Moravian ritual. The missionaries do considerable trading with the Indians, and keep magazines of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed during seasons of famine. At each station are a church, a store, a mission-house, and shops and warm huts for the converted and civilized Esquimaux, who are fast learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the Labrador station, replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. Mopedale is 300 M. N. W. of the Strait of Belle Isie, and is one of the chief Moravian missions on the Labrador coast. It was founded in 1782 by the en- voys of the cliurch, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this dreary coast. Its last statistics claim for it 35 houses, with 40 families and 248 per- sons ; 49 boats and 49 kayaks ; and a church containing 74 communicants and 85 baptized children. The mean annual temperature here is 27° 82'. The church is a neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and German hymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. >iai]i is about 80 M. N. W. of Ilopedale, and has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 95 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- vians iu 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, fiicing the ocean from the bottom of a narrow haven. It is in 57° N. latitude (same latitude as the Hebrides), and the thermometer sometimes marks 75° in summer, while spirits freeze iu the intense cold of winter. Okkak is about 120 M. N. W. of Nain, towards Hudson Strait, and is a very successthl mission which dates from 1776. The station of Hebron is stUl farther up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. Far away to the N. E., across the broad openings of Davis Sti'ait, is Cape Desolation, in Greenland, near the settlements of JuUamhaab. CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. At Battle Harbor the Northern Coastal steamer connects with the Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St Charles Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or Si. Charles Harbor, enterinijugation of the Esquimaux by the Montaignais, it was no longer dangerous to establi.-t3Uit : and aJteer a passage of M days rhev reacbe-i tiieir oid home in safety. The island was gtanfced in l.^i'l to the Sieur Joliet, who erected a fore here, but was soon plundered and tgected by the English. In 151-t H. B. M. frigate Leopard, oO, the same vessel which capnired the U S. frigr.re C-esapeaire was lost here '' The dangerous, desolate shores cf Antict^ti, rich in wrecks, accursed in human sufiering. This hideous wilderness has been the grave of hundreds : by the slowest andghastliest of deaths they die'.l. — starvation. Washed ashore from maimed and anking shij^, sared to destrucrion. they drag their chilled and battered limbs up the rough rocks ; for a mtnoent, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- ing eye forshellK', — and there is none ; the Miing sight darkens on hiUand forest, for^t and hill, and black despair. Hoars and days w^te out the lamp of life, until at length the vi&hered skdetrais have cmlj strengUi to die." (£uot Wasbcxio:!>.) PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. Quebec is bounded on the W. b}' the Province of Ontario, on the N. by the wilderness towards Hudson's Bay, on the E. by Maine, Labrador, and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Brunswick, New Eng- land, and New York. It covers 188,688 square miles, and its scenery is highly diversified and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the immense prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses the Province from S. W. to N. E., and receives as tributaries the large rivers Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenay. The Eastern Townships are famed for their fine highland scenery, amid which are beautiful lakes and glens. The Province of Quebec has 1,359,027 inhabitants (census of 1881), the vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,170,718 of the people are Roman Catholics, and the laws of education are modified to suit the system of parish-schools. There are 68,797 Church-of-England people, 50,287 Presbyterians, and 39,221 Methodists; 1,073,820 are of French origin, 123,749 Irish, 81,515 English, and 54,923 Scottish. The Dominion of Canada is ruled by a Governor-General (appointed by the British sovereign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 8D senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) and 208 members of the House of Commons. There is one member for each 17,000 souls, or 89 for Ontario, 65 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 16 for New Brunswick, 6 each for Prince Edward Island and British Columbia, and 5 for Manitoba. There are 30,144 Canadian militiamen, with a military school at Kingston ; and the navy consists of 8 armed screw-steamers (on the lakes and the Gulf). In 1800 Canada had 240,000 inhabitants ; in 1825, 581,920: in 1851, 1,842,265; in 1871, 3,657,887; and in 1881, 4,324,810. Between 1842 and 1872, 831,168 emigrants from Great Britain entered Canada; and in the same period, 4,338,086 persons, from the same king- dom, emigrated to the United States. The exports and imports of Canada amount to about $ 90,000,000 a year. Her chief trade is with Great Brit- ain and the United States, and the main exports are brendstuffs and tim- ber. The Dominion has nearly 10,000 M. of railways, and there are more than 6,000 post-offices. The first European explorer who visited this country was Jacques Car- 235 PEOVINCE OF QUEBEC. tier, Tvho landed at Gaspe in 1534, and ascended the St. La-vrrence to the site of Montreal during the following year. Seventeen years later the ill-fated Roberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for over half a century Canada was unvisited. In 1603 Champlain ascended to the site of Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded; while the labors of explorations, missions, and fighting the Iroquois were carried on without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken by an English fleet under Sir David Kirke, but it Avas restored to France in 1632. The Company of the Hundred Associates was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627, to erect settlements in La Xouvelle France, but the daring and merciless in- cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated the unfortunate Huron nation, the Iroquois destroyed a part of ^lon- treal and many of its people (1689). The long and bitter wars between Canada and the Anglo-American colonies had now commenced, and Xew York and New England were ravaged by the French troops and their allied Indians. Xaval expeditions were sent from Boston against Quebec in 1690 and 1711, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting was done on the line of Lake Champlain and in the Maritime Provinces. At last these outposts fell, and powerful British armies entered Canada on the E. and W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a pitched battle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the following year Montreal was occupied by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The French troops were sent home ; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, France ceded to Great Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 French people and 8,000 Indians in the Province. The resident population was conciliated by tolerance to their religion and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies when they revolted in 1775. The army of Gen. [Montgomery took Montreal and the adjacent country, but the Canadians declined either to aid or to oppose the Americans ; and when Arnold was defeated in his attempt to storm Quebec, the Continental forces were soon driven back into the United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada were formed, in order to stop the discontent of the French population, who were thus separated from the English and Loyalist settlements to the W. In 1791 representative government was established, and in 1793 slavery -was abolished. The AVar of 1812 was waged beyond the boundaries of Lower Canada, except during the abortive attempt of the Americans to capture ^lontreal. In 1837 revolutionary uprisings occurred in various parts of Ca-ada, and were only put down after much bloodshed. In 1840 the two Provinces were united, after which the seigniorial tenures were abolished, decimal currency was adopted, the laws were codified, and other PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 237 improvements took place. The capital, which had been shifted from Kingston to Montreal, and then to Toronto, was established by the Queen at Ottawa in 1860. The French and English deputies in Parliament were still at odds, and after a long wrangle in 1864, the attention of the country- was drawn to the old project of confederation, which was at last realized in 1867, and Canada (then divided into Ontario and Quebec) and the Mari- time Provinces were consolidated into the Dominion of Canada. Since that day the councils of the Imperial Government have manifested a de- sire to give independence to the new State ; and the Dominion, endowed with autonomic powers, has made rapid advances, building great railways, bridges, and canals, and forwarding internal improvements. Meantime Ontario has gained a preponderating power in the national councils, and the statesmen of Quebec are now maturing plans for the repatriation of the 500,000 French-Canadians now in the United States, hoping thereby to restore the Province of Quebec to her former pre-eminence and to popu- late her waste places. " Like a Tirgin goddess in a primeval world, Canada still walks in unconscious beauty among her golden woods and along the margin of her trackless streams, catching but broken glances of her radiant majesty, as mirrored on their surface, and scarcely dreams as yet of the glorious future awaiting her in the Olympus of nations." {E.i.BL of Dufferin.) ' ' The beggared noble of the early time became a sturdy country gentleman ; poor, but not wretched ; ignorant of books, except possibly a few scraps of rusty Latin picked up in a Jesuit school ; hardy as the hardiest woocTsman, yet never for- getting his quality of gentiUiomme ; scrupulously wearing its badge, the sword, and copying as well as he could the fashions of the court, which glowed on his vision across the sea in all the effulgence of Versailles, and beamed with reflected ray from the chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at home among the Indians, and never more at home than when, a gun in his hand and a crucitix on his bx'east, he took the war-path with a crew of painted savages and Frenchmen almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx from the forest on some lonely fiirm or out- lying hamlet of New England. How New England hated him, let her records telL The reddest blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian gentil- hojnme.''^ (Parkman.) " To a traveller from the Old World, Canada East may appear like a new coun- try, and its inhabitants like colonists ; but to me, coming from New England, .... it appeared as old as Normandy itself, and realized much that I had heard of Europe and the Middle Ages. Even the names of humble Canadian villages affected nie as if they had been those of the I'enowned cities of antiquity. To be told by a habitant, when I asked the name of a village in sight, that it is St. Fereole or St. Anne, the Guardian Angel or the Holy Joseph's ; or of a mountain, that it was Be'ange or St. Hyarinthe ! As soon as you leave the States, these saintly names begin. St. John is the first town you stop at, and thenceforward the names of the mountains and streams and villages reel, if I may so speak, with the intoxication of poetry, — Charnbly, Longueuil, Points aiix Trembles, Bartholomy, etc., etc., — as if it needed only a little foi-eign accent, a few more liquids and vowels perchance in the language, to make us locate our ideals at once. 1 began to dream of Provence and the Troubadours, and of places and things which have no existence on the earth. They veiled the Indian and the primitive forest, and the woods toward Hud- son's Bay were only as the forests of France and Germany. I could not at once bring myself to believe that the inhabitants who pronounced daily those beautiful and, to me, significant names lead as prosaic lives as we of New England. *>38 M^mU 66. PICTOU TO QUEBEC. " One of Qie tzibataiies of tiie St. Anne is named La Rtriire de la Rose, and &r- tiier ea?t axe La. RicUre de la BUmdeiU and La Riciert de la FYiponme. Their ferj riciire mfandera mme than oar riter [It is] a more western and wilder Arca- dia, mechinks, dian the world has eTcr seen : fe French Canadians ; and if any people had a right to suhsti- tote their own for the Indian names, it was they. Tbey hare preceded the picneer on onr own ftoatiets, and named the prairie for as.- - (Tho&eac. ) On the question as to whether the Canadians speak good Fmich, Potherle sp.ja that " tbej had no dialect, which, inieed, is gataaUj lost in a colony." CLar.e- Toix observed eaboct 1720) : '* The French langoage k nowhere spoken with greater pori^, there being no accmt perceptible.-' BoogainTiUe adds : " They do not know how to write, bat they speak with ease and with an accent as good as the Parisian." Prof. Silthnan says that they speak as good French as the common Ain«»ri<>>fis» gpt»ak KnglfeJi- Frcm the Tohnninoos work of M. Banteaa, entitled La France aux Colonies — Aeadiem et Camadiens (Parks, 1Sd£*), we learn that in the year 1320 the valleys of Uie Sagaenay, Ottawa, and Lower St. Lawrence shall be occapied by a Fracco- Canadian nation of 5,000,000 sools : tbat the n.otrmfcl rices, " impoTeiishment of inteliigence, and corraption of manners, *' which the Anglo-Americaa race in the United Stat^ has so&ied, shall be opposed and checked by the fecond genins of the French raee, and the " scientific and artistie aptitudes of the Canadians ," emanating eontinent-enl^htening radiance from the walls cS the Laral University : tbat the isolate barbarism of the Americans shall be ame'Jorated by the rercet influences of the ^ Greco-Latin idea -' of the Franco-Canadians : and that that agricnitaral and intelkctiial people, " the general and essential principle of whose material and intel!ectaal power is in their religioas faith and in the simplicity of tbeir manners," shall pn^thy the sad experience of Old France, — and onder the conservative inflo- esces of a social aristocracy shall erect a New France, to be forever illostrioas in ita enltare " de r esprit, la modeuie dts maurs, la liberte et la religion." 66. Picton to Quebec. — Tne Coasts of Gaspe and the Lower St Lawrence. This voyage is '':^\ of interest to the lover of fine scenery, and leads through some of the most attractire parts of the Provinces. The vessels pass the loftv highlands of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the sandy shores of New Brunswick, the stately mountains about the Bay of Chaleur, and the frowning ridges of Gaspe. Then comes, the ascent of the majestic St. Lawrence, with its white French villages, its Alpine shores, and romantic history, terminated by the quaint mediaeval towers of Quebec, "the Walled City of the North." The steamei^ are large and comfoTiable, and are quite steady in ordinary seasons. The cabin-tables are well supplied, and the attendance is good. There is but little danger from sea-sickness, except in very breezy weather (see also page 3). This route is served by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company. Passengers leave Halifax by railway Monday morning, and connect with the steamship which leaves Pictou on the same afternoon, calling at Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Sommerside, P. E. I., Perc^, Gasp^, Metis, Father Point, and Quebec, arriving at the latter port on Friday, and proceeding at once to Montreal, where ^e arrives next morning. Ee- CAELETON. Route 66. 239 turning, the steamer leaves Montreal on Monday, and Quebec on Tues- day, and arrives in Pictou on Saturday morning. Connections are made with steamboats for the inner ports of the Bay of Chaleur, at Perc^, and travellers may thus reach the line of the Intercolonial Eailway at Camp- bellton. Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou Island and Pictou Island (see also page 175), and enters the Northumber- land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pictou County, among whose glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10 - 12 M. N. are the low hills of Prince Edward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagouche Bay (see page 81) is passed about 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear weather. Bej'ond Bale Verte the steamer passes through the narrow part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the low red shores of Prince Edward Island are seen on the r. The course is next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- bor of Shediac is entered. The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in Route 15 (page 60). It is to be remembered, however, that the Guif- Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 15, the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Eestigouche, the red sand- stone cliffs of Maguacha Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the broad lagoon of Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Tracadiegash is now approached, and after passing the lighthouse on Tracadiegash Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec shore. This place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snugly situated under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales from the N. and E. Immense schools of herring visit these shores during the springtime, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops off the port if there are any passengers or freight to be landed. 240 Roide 66. PASPEBIAC. " Carleton is a pretty town, to -which a steamer sometimes runs from Camp- bellton, rendering the salmon streams in the vicinity quite accessible. When the sun shines, its white cottagres, nestling at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash Mountain, glisten like snow-flakes against the sombre background, and gleam out in lovely contrast with the clouds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of the Alleghany range. ' ' (Hai.t.ock. ) The steamer now passes out upon " the undulating and voluptuous Bay of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contoui's, which the wind caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- ing of the waves without a murmur." On the N. is Cascapediac Bay, on whose shores are the Acadian and Scottish hamlets of Maria and Kew Richmond, devoted to farming and the fisheries. The rugged peaks of the Tracadiegash range are seen in fine retrospective views. Neit) Carlisle is near the mouth of the Grand Bonaventure Eiver, and is the capital of Bonaventure Countv. It has 700 inhabitants, and is en- gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitoi-s. The churches and court-house occupy a conspicuous position on the high bank which overlooks the hixj. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- ists, who received from the government one year's provisions, lands, seeds, and farming-implements. ^400,000 was expended in establishing this settlement and Douglastown. Paspebiac ( Clarke's Hotel) is a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the N. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 JI. from Quebec. Its harbor is formed by a fine beach of sand 3 M. long, curving to the S., and forming a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gales. The church and houses of the village are built above the red clifi's of the shore, and present the neat and orderly appearance of a miUtary post. On the line of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- yards of Charles Robin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile establishments which sustain the place. Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 1768, and has its headquarters at the Isle of Jersey, off the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 1766 by Charles Eobin, who established here a large fishing station. In June, 1778, the place was taken by two American privateers, which carried away the vessels Hope and Bee. The whole fleet was soon afterward captured by H. B. M. frigates Hunter and Pipfr, but Eobin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 1783 he came back here under French colors, and in 20 years accumulated a great fortune. The firm of Charles Robin & Co. is now the most powerful on all these coasts, and keeps large tleets employed, supporting numerous villages from 7 wealthy establishments. The heads of the firm live in Jersey, and their officers and man- agers on this coast are forced by rule to lead a life of celibacy. This company em- ploys 7cO men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors ; and the LeBoutilliers have 580 men and 15 vessels. They export vast quantities of fish and oil to the West Indies and the Mediterranean, supplying their Canadian posts, in return, with all needed products of other countries. Paspebiac receives $! 1(0, COO worth of goods yearly, and exports $300,000 worth of fish. The best fish is sent to the Mediterranean in bulk, the second grade goes in tubs to Brazil, and the poorest is shipped in casks to the West Indies. The Jersey fleet reaches Paspebiac early in Mar, spends the summer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns in December. The American mar- ket is supplied by the Cape-Ann fleet in these waters ; and the proceeds of the au- tumnal months are sold in Upper Canada. The annual yield of the Bay of Chaleur is estimated at 26,000 quintals of dry codfish, 600 quintals of haddock, 3,000 bar- CAPE DESPAIR. Route 66. 241 rels of herring, 300 barrels of salmon, and 15,000 gallons of cod-oil. The fisheries of the bay and Gulf are valued at $ 800,000 a year, and employ 1,500 sail of vessels and 18,000 men. In January and February the thermometer sometimes sinks to 25° below zero, and the bay is overhung by dark masses of "frost smoke." In this season the Aurora Borealis is seen by bight, illuminating the whole northern horizon with steady brilliance. In July and August the thermometer ranges from 65° to 106°, and the air is tempered by fresh sea-breezes. The name Paspebiac means " broken banks," and the inhabitants are called Paspy Jacks or Pospillots. Many of the bits of agate and jasper called " Gaspe peb- bles " are found on this shore after the gales of spring and autumn, and are sent to the jewellers of London and Quebec. It is supposed that they come from the con- glomerate rocks on the Restigouche Elver. Beyond Paspebiac are the shores of Hope, on which immense masses of caplin-fish are thrown up every spring. They are shovelled into wagons by the farmers and are used to fertilize the land. The next point of in- terest is the deep bay of Po7't Daniel, a safe and well-sheltered haven, on whose W. shore is a remarkable hill, 400 ft. high. Near the fishing- village up the harbor are deposits of oil-bearing shale. The steamer soon passes Point Maqiiereau (which some consider the N. portal of the Bay of Chaleur), with Point Miscou on the S. E. At midnight on Oct. 15, 1838, the ship Colborne went ashore on Point Maquereau, and was soon broken to pieces. Her crew, consisting of 42 men, was lost. The cargo was composed of silks, wines, silver-plate, and specie, and was valued at over $400,000. The wreckers of Gaspe recovered rich treasures from the wreck. Newport is 6 M. beyond Point Maquereau, and is inhabited by 200 Aca- dians, who are devoted to the fisheries and to the pursuit of the vast flocks of wild fowl which resort to these shores during the spring and autumn. Great and Little Pabos are seaside hamlets, 4 and 8 M. farther E. 4 M. beyond is Grand River, a large Acadian village clustered about the fish- ing-establishment of Robin & Co. It is 7 M. from this point to Cape Despair. Cape Despair was named by the French Cap d''Espoir, or Cape Hope, and the present name is either an Anglicized pronunciation of this French word, or else was given in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that year Queen Anne sent a great fleet, with 7,000 soldiers, with orders to capture Quebec and occupy Canada. The fleet was under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and the army was commanded by Gen. Hill. During a black fog, on the 22d of August, a violent storm arose and scattered the fleet in all directions, hurling 8 large ships on the terrible ledges of Egg Island (see page 233) and Cape Despair, where they were lost with all on board. Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrage Anglais, were to be seen along the shores until a recent date ; and there was a wild superstition among the fishermen to the effect that sometimes, when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves would roll inward from the Gulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with men in ancient military costumes. An officer stands on the bow, with a white-clad woman on his left arm, and as the maddened surge sweeps the doomed ship on with light- ning speed, a tremendous crash ensues, the clear, agonized cry of a woman swells over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seen but the black cliffs and the level sea. Just beyond Cape Despair is the prosperous fishing-station of Cape Cove, 9 M. from Perc^. The traveller should now be on the lookout for the Perc6 Rock and Bonaventure Island. The steamer runs in between the Rock and the Island, affording fine views of both. 11 p 242 Route 66. PERCE. The * Perce Eock is 288 ft. high, rising with precipitous walls directly from the waves; and is about 500 ft. long. This citadel-like cliff is pierced by a lofty arch, through which the long levels of the sea are visible. Small boats sometimes traverse this weird passage, under the immense Gothic arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of the Rock, but its roof fell in with a tremendous crash, and left a great obelisk rising from the sea beyond. The summit of the Perce Rock covers about two acres, and is divided into two great districts, one of which is inhabited by the gulls, and the cormorants dwell on the other. If either of these trespasses on the other's territory (which occurs every fifteen minutes, at least), a battle ensues, the shrill cries of hundreds or thousands of bu-ds rend the air, great clouds of combatants hover over the plateau, and peace is only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the conflict is between large flocks, it is a scene worthy of close notice, and sometimes becomes highly exciting. The Rock is at right angles with Mt. Joli, and is of new red sandstone. The top is covered with fine grass. Many years ago the Rock was ascended by two fishermen, and the way once being found,' scores of men clambered iip by ropes and carried away the eggs and young birds, finding the older ones so tame that they had to be lifted off the nests. This vast aviary would have been depopulated loug ere this, but that the Perce magis- ti-ates passed a law forbidding the ascent of the Rock. There are numerous quaint and weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of which is that of Le Genie de Vile Percee, a phantom often seen over the plateau. " It is likely that the founda- tion for this legend can be traced to the vapory or cloud-like appearance the vast flocks of water-fowl assume when seen at a distance, wheeling in every fantastic shape through the air, previous to alighting on the summit." The harbor of Pei'ce is very insecure, and is open to the X. E. winds. In earlier times this port was called La Terre des Tempetes, so frequent and disastrous were the storms. The village has about 400 inhabitants, most of whom follow the shore-fisheries in small boats. The town is visited every spring and summer by hundreds of stalwart Jersey lads, sent out by the Robins. Perc^ consists of South Beach, where are the white-and-red buildings of the Robin establishment; and Xorth Beach, whei-e is the bulk of the popu- lation, Avith the court-house, jail, and Catholic church. The two sections are separated by ^Mount Joli, a lofty promontory which here approaches Perc6 Rock. The Episcopal church is a cosey little Gothic structure, accommodating 100 persons. Perc6 is " the Elysium of fishermen," and hence arises a circumstance which detracts from its value as a summer resort, — when the shore is covered with the refuse parts of codfish, pro- ducing a powerful and unpleasant odoi*. It is said that even the potatoes are found to contain fish-bones. Back of Perce is the remarkable * Mount St. Anne, with its bold and massive square top rising 1,230 ft. above the sea, and visible for a distance of 70 M. over the water. This eminence may be ascended without great trouble, and from its summit is obtained one of the noblest views in the Maritime Provinces. It includes many leagues of the savage mountain- land of Gaspe, extending also along the coast from the Bay of Chaleur to Gaspd Bay and Ship Head. But the marine view is the most attractive PERCE. Route 66. 243 and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventure and Perc^ Rock. A fine view is also obtained from the highway near French Town, including a vast* area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the Rock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic church. The walk around the mountain to the corner of the beach is full of interest ; and the road through the hills to Gaspd is picturesque, though rough, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. Mt. St. Anne is also known as Mt. Joli and the Table Roulante. Upon its red -sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz crystals. * Bonaventure Island forms a great natural breakwater before the Perce shores, and is surrounded by deep channels. It is 2^ M. from the main- land, and the passage around the island in a small boat affords a pleasant excursion. Bonaventure is 2^ M. long and | M. wide, and is a vast pile of red conglomerate rock, with a line of cliffs 3-500 ft. high, facing the Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. There ai'e about 300 French Catholics on the shores, connected with the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillier Brothers. The island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a brave mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture, swept the coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on Mount Joli. " Perce is one of the curiosities of the St. Lawrence. If one should believe all the fantastic stories, to which tradition adds its prestige, that rest about this formidable rock, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surging and often stormy sea, like a fearless defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could only be approached with a mysterious dread mingled with anguish. Perc6 proper is a village of 200 firesides, established on a promontory that seems to guard the St. Lawrence : this promontory is not lofty, nor does it compare with our northern mountains ; but it is wrinkled, menacing, full of a fierce gi-andeur ; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has revealed to it its strength and the power which it holds from God to restrain the waves from passing their appointed bounds. It is an archer of the Middle Ages, covered with iron, immovable in his armor, and who receives, invulnerable, all the blows of the enemy. In face of the Atlantic, which has beaten it with tempests through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, but immovable as a decree of heaven, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mui'- mur the wrathful torrents that inundate it, bent downward like a fallen god who expiates in an eternity the arrogant pride of a single day, Perce fills us at once with a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity." (Arthur Buies.) Perc6 was visited by Cartier in 1534, and thereafter became a celebrated fishing- station for the French fleets. The coast from Canso to Cape Rosier was granted soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsac , who founded a permanent village here, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a summer rendezvous. Bishop Laval sent the Franciscans here in 1673 to look after the spiritual welfare of the people, and they erected a chapel at Perce and the Church of St Claire on Bonaventure Island. In 1690 the place was taken, with aU its vessels, by two British frigates, whose crews sacked and burnt all the houses at Perc6 and Bonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through the picture of St. Peter. In 1711 another naval attack was made by the British, and the French ships Hiros and Vermandois were captured in the harbor. In 1776 a desperate naval combat took place off Perc6 Rock, between the American pri- vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British war- vessels IFo^and Diligence, Two of the American vessels were sunk within cannon- shot of the Rock. 244 Hottte 66. GASP]^ After loavinp: hov anclioi-ago o(T Perc^ the stoamsliip runs N. across the oponiiisrs of Mai Uay, and at 9 M. out passes Point St. Ptt^r, with its fish- inir-villao\>. The coiu'so is next hiid to the N. W. tip Gaspe Bay, with the fatal strand of the Grand Ort>ve on the r. To the 1. is BotiQhistotnt, on the broad lagoon at the n>outh of the St. John River tfanunis for salmon). This town was laid out by Surveyor Douglas, and is inhabited by Irish and Freneli people. The vessel now steams in throuah the narrow strait between the grand natural bi-oakwater of Sandybeaoh' and the N. shoi*e, and enters the * Gaspe Basiu. The bay is 20 M. long and 5 M. wide, and the basin is a secure and land-loeked harbor at its head. As the steauior rounds the lighthouse on Sandy beaeh, beautiful views ai^o pre- sented of the broad haven, with the North River Mts. to the W. " The mountains of Gaspt^ aro fiiir to bohoUi, "NVitii tUoir llivkings of shadow and gloiuuings of gold." Gaspe {Gttl/ ffousc) is a town of SOO inhabitants, beautifully situated between the mountains and the sea, and iVouting on the S. \V. arm of the basin. It is the capital of the county and a free port of entry, and is de- voted to the fisheries, having several whaling-ships and a large fleet of sehooiuM"^. The Gaspt^ eodtish are preferred, in the Mediterranean ports, to the Newfoundland fish, because they are not so salty. The chief establishment hei-o is that of the LeBoutilliei*s, who have also a fine mansion near the village. Petix>leuni has been found here, and wells 7 - i^OO ft. deep have been sunk by two companies. Gasp«5 is visited by 2-800 city people every summer, for the sake of its picturesque scenery, cool and sparkling air, and the conveniences lor yachting and for tishing. The York and Dartmouth Rivers empty into the basin, and are famous for their game-tlsli. The adjacent shores are fertile and iire thickly settled, and the town itself is rapidly advancing in importance. On a hill to the S. is Fort Hainsay, a line of guns among the trees. This is the first point N. of Newcastle where the steamer is moored to a wharf. V'ort- nightly mail-packets run freiu Gaspe to Esquimaux Bay, on the Labrador coast (see pag-e 230). ••Whut a devious sisrht I luingino ;\ Kiy 20 M. Ions: endins: ix\ a bas'n whore a flivt of a tliovvs^invl vossols oouUl bo sholtoivd. On rii^ht uiul loft, two rvoi-s, whioh aiv v^'rtoil bv tlio v^^rt, swivp ai-omul tlio amv^Uithoatrioal ."slioirs ; hills hoiv ami tiioix> of s;i>-;\;n^ outluio or oovoitnl with rouudod lawns ; bolow, a littlo lino of v^iors, tishinsc-vossols, sohoonoi-s and somo bri^s swimrinjx thoir slaokonod sjiils in tlio lisrlit biwio whioh blows tVom tho shoros ; soniothin;.;- wild, fivsh, and vii^nvus, liko tho fn-st spring of a groat oivation. Tho Gaspe Basiu has traits of tho giant and of the infant; it astonishes and channs ; it has a harmony at onoo dolicate and striking." (.VRrUVK lU'lKS.) Tho Indians of Gasp6 xrero distinguishod. in a remote age, fvT unusual adA-;\iioes iM oiviti.';ation. Thoy know tho poiuts of tho oompa^ss. traivd maps of thoir oouutry, o'worvv>d tho positions of tho stars, and woi-shippod tho syn»bol of tho oross. Thoy i ;'ornHHi tho oarly Jesuit niissionavios that in fcir vlistant agos thoy woiv sooui-ged l> • a fatal |H»st\lontv. nntil a vonoraMo man landed on thoir sl»or^>, and arrestevi tho piogivssof tlie disoase 1\y ei-ootiug theol•oss^see TtiRE LasciiRo's Mouvdii ReiationJ* GASPJif. Route GG. 245 la (ja.sp6.sie,l(]7C)). Tf, is RiippoRcd that HiiHrnyBtorioufi vifilf-orwas aNorHoman. Tlio naino (ja.spd im-aiiH " ImikI'h j;iiaiH and Ks(|ijiiriaiix. J'rof. Rain, tlio ii^WMt J>aninli archa-oiof^iHh, ha.H n.dvanmd a tlioory to tho cfTfct that (;iaspi': wan a liHliin{:;-Ktation of Uk; Noi-ko vikinj^.s in Uio lltli, 12Ui, and loUi contmiuH. It Im Hup()o.s<;d thai; ir, was vi-itod in lOOfi by t\u; SpMiiiHii mariner Vekuco, who aHcciid(!d tin; St. Ii;i,wr(inc(! for 'AOi) l(;;i^n(^H, or cI'hi! by Sl.clano (jonicz, who was fiailiiij;; from Spain to ('nha in lf)2!'), hut was hlosvn far from his conrw;, and entered the Uuif of St. Lawn^nce. Then; is a,n old (Jastiiian tradition that tli(! K'>ld-i-<;cking Spaniards, lindin;? no jinicionH metals here, Haid, " Am natJu'''' (" There is nothing hero"). This oft-r(!peat(!d [ihraKo became fixed in the memory of the lndia,nK, though it wan not eompnsiiended ; and whrevioin IOuro|jean visitors, and enrJeavoi-ed to excite his iaterest by nipeatinf? the words, " A(;a iiada, Aea n;ida." lie thoii^'lit that, they were ):;ivin;? him the name of their nation or country, and so, accf)rdin(i; to thi.s pneriie tradition, arose tlu; name of (Janada. Another tiieory of the derivation of tlio name was p;iven liy th(T early New-KiiKlanders : " N(!W lOnj^^land is by 8oine af- firmed to ho an island, bounded on the north with the Iliver (Janada (so called from Mon.siour (Jane)." (Josski.yn's New l''n^lfW(l''.s ILuritIrs J)isrovf?rd, \(h2.} "From this lake northwards is derived the famous Itiver of (Janada, so named of Mon,si(;ur do (!;i,nrioii-(Jhabot, Admiral of France, and was sent forth t.o reconnoitre a new roiil;(! to (Jathay, for tiie great advantage of iOuropean crjnniierce,. It was also thought tliat in the new realms beyond the sea the (Jatholii; (Jhurcli might make sucii conquest:} as would res of Matane are to the S.W., in the great Gaspesian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles E. of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Commis may be seen, 40 M. distant, S. W. by W. i W., like an island on the remote horizon. The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. W. 22 M. to Petit Metis, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Eail- way. Metis is a little way W., and is occupied by 250 French Catholics 11* 250 Route 67. EIMOUSKI. and Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long government wharf; and the people are engaged also in the pursuit of black whales, which are sought by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Metis, across the river, is the great peninsula of Manicouagan, at the mouth of the rivers Manicouagan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. The steamship comes to off Father Point, where there is a lighthouse and telegraph-station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- habitants. Here the outAvard-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Near this place are the hamlets of St. Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 15 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway i-eaches the St. Lawrence (see page 70). A few miles S. E. is Mt. Camille, which is 2,036 ft. high. Father Point (Pointe au Pere) was so named because the priest Henri Nouvel wintered there in 1663. Canada geese, ducks, and brant are killed here in great numbers during the long easterly storms. St. Germain de Eimouski {Hotel St. Laurent; Eimouski Hotel) is 6 M. from Father Point, and is an incorporated city, an impoi'tant station on the Intercolonial Railway, and the capital of Eimouski County and of a Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200 - 1,500 inhabitants, with a handsome cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, court-house, and other public buildings. The Canadian government has built a large and substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- pected for the young city. Many summer visitors come to this place, attracted by its cool air and fine scenery. Rimouski was founded in 1688, and in 1701 a missionary was sent here, who founded a parish which has now grown into a strong bishopric. "Eimouski, the future metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, a httle city full of promise and fur- rowed already by the rails of the Intercolonial, will have its harbor of refuge where the great ocean-steamers will stop in passing, and will attract all the commerce of the immense region of the Metapedia, the future granary of our country." The Rimouski River is famous for its abundance of trout. Barnaby Island is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of Rimouski. It was known by its present name in 1629, when the fleet of the Kirkes assembled here. From 1723 to 1767 it was the home of a pious French hermit, who avoided women and passed most of his time in his oratory. Some say that he was wrecked off these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was saved ; others, that he had been disappointed in love. In his last hours he was visited by people from Rimouski, who found him dying, with his faithful dog hcking his chiliiug face. Bic Island was formerly called Le Pic, but was named St. Jean by Cartier, who entered its harbor in 1535, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John. It was included in the scheme of D'Avaugour and Vauban (in the 17th century) for the defence of Canada, and was intended to have been made an impregnable mari- time fortress, sheltering a harbor of refuge for the French navy. But this Mont St. Michel of the New World never received its ramparts and artillery. The place was taken by Wolfe's British fleet of 200 ships, June 18, 1759 ; and when the Tretit affair threatened to involve the United States and Great Britain in war, in 1861, British troops were landed at Bic, on the main shore, from the ocean-steamship Persia, and were carried hence in sleighs to Riviere du Loup. Near this point is L'Islet au Massacre, where, according to tradition, 200 Micmac Indians were once sur- prised at night by the Iroquois, while slumbering in a cavern. The vengeful enemy silently filled the cave's mouth with dry wood and then set it on fire, shooting the unfortiinate Micmacs as they leaped through the flames. 195 of the latter were slain, and it is claimed that their bones strewed the islet until within a few years. TROIS PISTOLES. Route 67. 251 Ste.-Cecile du Bic (two boarding-houses) is a prosperous French vil- lage of 600 inhabitants, with a good harbor and a large and ugly church. It is 9 M. from Eimouski, and is surrounded by fine scenery. The Bay of Bic is "large enough to be majestic, small enough to be overlooked in one glance ; a shore cut into deep notches, broken with flats, capes, and beaches ; a background of mountains hewn prodigally from the world's material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- way was carried through this region at a vast expense, and sweeps around the flank of the mountain, 200 ft. above the village, affording beautiful views. Wonderful mirages are seen off" this port, and out towards Point de Monts. The highlands immediately over Bic are nearly 1,300 ft. high; and the bay receives two rivers, which descend in cascades and rapids from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on Biquette Island, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to the S. will attract the attention by their fantastic irregularity. Between Bic and Trois Pistoles, but not visible from the river, are the new French vil- lages of St. Fabien, among the mountains; St. Matthieu, with its great quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway ; and St. Simon, near a pretty highland lake. The rocky islets of Rosade are 2 M. off the shore of Notre Dame des Anges, and are decorated with a large cross, in memory of a marvellous escape. Some 30 years ago the St. Lawrence froze for 6 M. out from the parish, and many hundreds of seals ■were discovered on the ice. The people gathered and went out to slay these strange visitors, but the ice suddenly broke adrift and was whirled away down the stream. There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, which were now \ M. from the shore. Their families and friends bade them an eternal farewell, and the village priests, standing at the water's edge, gave them final absolution in preparation for the approaching catastrophe. But even while they were kneeling on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the ■widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upou the isle of Rosade. Thence they passed easily to the mainland, and afterwards erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gratitude. Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has induced several Quebec gentlemen to build summer cottages here. There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fisherman, who was tending his nets near his rude hut, what he would charge to ferry him across. "Trois pistoles" (three ten-franc pieces), said the fisher. "What is the name of this river ? " asked the traveller. " It has no name ; it will be baptized at a later day." " Well, then," said the traveller, "name it Trois Pistoles.'''' The river is now famous for its fine trout-fishing. " That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and Goose Island is about 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The ■white porpoise yields an oil of the best quality, and its skin makes good leather. 252 Route 67. KAMOURASKA. The Gulf-Ports steamship does not stop between Father Point and Qnebec, but the villages described in this itinerary may be visited from Quebec ; those on the S. shore by railway, and St. Paul's Bay, Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, and Rimouski by river-steamers. The N. shore from Cape Tourmente to the Saguenay is described in Route 72. The vessel steams up by Green Island, which is 6 - 7 M. long, and shel- ters the large manufacturing village of Isle Verte, whence fine butter is sent to Quebec. On the r. is Bed Island, with its tall stone lighthouse, off which is a lightship. Cacouna and Riviere du Loup (see Route 72) are next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs "W. with the three steep islets called the Brandy Pots {Pots-a-f eau-de-vie) on the r. The S. islet bears a fixed light; the N. islet is 150 ft. high, of vesiculated conglomerate in which almond-shaped bits of quartz are imbedded. In war-time merchant- ships wait off the Brandy Pots for their convoying frigates. X. of these islets is Sare Island, which is about 10 M. long, and has extensive salt marshes, on which herds of cattle are kept. On the 1. are now seen the five remarkable islets called The Pilgrims, about 1§ M. from the S. shore and 4h ^L in aggregate length. The Long PilgHm is 300 ft. high and par- tially wooded, and is marked by a lighthouse, 180 ft. above the river. The Kamouraska Islands are 6 M. farther W., and over them is seen the pretty village of Kamouraska {Albion Hotel), with its gi-eat Church of St. Louis and Congregational Convent. The river-water at this point is as salt as the sea, and the village was the chief summer resort on the St. LaAvrence before Cacouna arose. " Who does not know Kamouraska ? Who does not know that it is a charming Tillage, bright and picturesque, bathing its feet in the crystal of the waters of the river^like a'naiad, and coquettishly viewing the reflections of its two long ranges of white houses, .... so near the river that ftom all the windows the great waves may- be contemplated and their grand voices heard ? On all sides, except towards the S., the horizon extends as far as the eye can reach, and is only bounded by the vast blue curtain of the Laurentides. At the N. E. the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, like a handful of emeralds dropped by the angel of the sea. .... These isles are the farorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska. There they fish, or bathe, or seek other amusements. Le pique-nique is much in vogue there, and the truest jovs are felt."' 'St. Paschal (700 inhabitants) is 5 M. from Kamouraska, on the Grand Trunk Railway. " Bel endroit, Saint-Paschal, par sa croupe onduleuse, Ses couteaux, ses vallons, sa route siuueuse I C'est la Suisse ou I'Auvergne arec leurs gais chalets, Leurs monts, leurs pres en pente et leurs jardins coquets." Beyond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. shore, 22 M. distant, are the bold mountains about Murray Bay (see Route 72). On the level plains to the S. is seen the tall Church of St. Denis, with its attendant village ; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- lage of Riviere Quelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Xear this point is the quaint Casgi'ain manor-house, now over a century old. This parish is named for Madam Houel, wife of Comptroller-General Houel, who was captured here by Indians in the 17th century. Near the beach is a rock which ST. ANNE DE LA POCATI^RE. Route 67. 253 bears the plain impress of three snow-shoes, and formerly had the marks of human feet and hands. In 1690 the priest of Riviere Quelle led his parishioners, and drove back the New-Englanders of Sir William Phipps's fleet. Back among the hills are the hamlets of St. Onesime and St. Pacome. St. Anna de la Pocatiexe (two hotels) is a large and prosperous town, 72 M. below Quebec, with 3,000 inhabitants, a weekly paper {La Gazette des Campagnes), and a convent. "Nature lias given to St. Anne charm- ing shores, laden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Anne's College is a stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumptuous chapel. It has 30 professors (ecclesiastics) and 230 students, and is main- tained in a high state of efficiency. The parks cover several acres, and the museum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- Farm is connected with thecollege, and has 5 professors (zootechny, rural law, etc.). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and beauty. As the steamer passes St. Anne the frowning mass of Mt. Eboulements is seen on the N. shore. A few miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St. Roch-des-Aulnaies is passed, on the 1., and still farther to the W. is St. Jean-Port- J oli, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of De Gaspe's popular romance, "Les Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux Coudres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by the islet called the Stone Pillar, on which there is a lighthouse, and 14 M. farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- perous village of L'Islet (1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island {D Isle aux Grues) by a long aUuvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a breeding-plnce. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. During the French regime these islands {Les Isles de Ste. -Marguerite) were erected into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France. He built a massive stone house on Crane Island, and was afterwards kept there, in rigorous captivity, by Madame de Granville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that he was insane ; but this report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and the island was regarded with dread. She kept him in close durance for many years, until at last he died. Beyond the S. shore village of Cap St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the steamer passes St. Thomas, the capital of Montmagny County. This town has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. • The College Montmagny is located here, and there is also a convent and a large and conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the foot of the cove, where the Riviere du Sud falls 30 ft. On the r., beyond St. Thomas, is seen a cluster of picturesque islets, over which the massive Cape Tourmente frowns. 254 r>' 4 PirJii/lfi-wn " E.4. ^St.MN(CaJ.kl-- l"-3. 7 5/. .S'/nwaa/.-:-..-- .-A.2. HShRocJi. : €.2. 9 Nufiv Damt^ lies Vixioiivs. . V'^- 10 fljrlMi(ip'sPal-acf. . E.3i. n SemuMr.r — E..». 12 Larfi/Ilfiivav/ly. K^. '^HcldDimCmiTent -E.3. \\}fj:s,ilin^. r., E-I'. 15 Gmy Sisfei-s"- D.tl. 1() (m^irt/uluninl..- l.^. 17 (imeitd HvspU^ n'i- 18 J:^//-.>?^-_------ t.l- ^Mmriit fvlfffif. E,3. 20 Fw^iammtf&m'O. F.3. 21 OurfUms.^. VA. n Ke.nt Houses EA. njJu/hSehmj^ E.I. 2't (mrrtKify Oairlcti' .E.''!. 25 (^i.iliim Ileu^sc - r.Il. 26 ChttmphwMai^<:l El. 27 //'^/ J^-^- •28 WdfeiMeicawenl^^. 29 hinimii (i/i/sulitk- . .r.«. "jfyStJi'lm-sfmU ..1).3. 32 rrc*c4>m. '■-... -E.E4. 3f PaUce-" I->- %st St Li'ui^ Hdd E.4. yaDzpartmenlalBlgs D.4, ;hy:m.(7.^. "0.:i. QUEBEC. Route 68. 255 68. auebec. Arrival. — If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take a carriage or the hotel oinnibus to the Upper Town. The cnleche is not adapted for carrying lug- gage. Hotels. — The *St. Louis Hotel is a large house near the Dufferin Terrace, kept by Willis Russell, an American gentleman. It accommodates 500 guests, and charges $ 2.50-3.50 a day. The Russell House is a large modern hotel, near the St. Louis, and under the same management. Its terms are lower than those of the St. Louis. The Albion Hotel is on Palace St., and charges $2.50 a day^. Honchey's Hotel (on St. Anne St., opposite the Anglican Cathedral) is quiet and moderate, for gentlemen travelling en gargon. The Mountain-Hill House, on Mountain- Hill St. , and Blanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, opposite Notre Dame des Victoires, are second-class houses, charging about $ 1.50 a day. There are several good boarding-houses in the Upper Town, among which are those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. Louis St. ; Mrs. McDonell, 12 St. Louis St ; Miss Lane, 41 St> Anne St. ; Mrs. Boyce, 1 Garden St. Comfortable quarters may be ob- tained at these houses for about $ 10 a week. Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and large numbers of them are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- thedral, and beyond St. John's- Gate. The carriages in the Lower Town are less ele- gant and much less expensive than those within the walls. The rates for excursions in the suburbs in summer are from $S to ^4 for 1-3 persons (to Montmorenci Falls, Lorette, Cap Rouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. The ca^ec/ie-drivers of the Lower Town usually demand $2 for carrying 1-2 persons to the outer suburban resorts. The caleche is a singular and usually very shabby- looking vehicle, perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front. It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven by a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyllabic cry, •■' Marche-donc ! '' Horse- Cars run between St. Ours, St. Sauveur, and the Champlain Market, every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and St. Peter Sts. The fare is 5c. Reading-Kooms. — The elegant library of the Quebec Literary and His- torical Society (in Morrin College) is courteously opened to the visits of strangers. The Library of Parliament is also accessible, and is finely arranged. The Institut Canadien is at 57 Fabrique St. ; and the Y. M. C. Association Hall is a splendid building, erected in 1879-80, on St. John St., just outside the gate. Post-Office at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are not sold at the post-offices, but are kept on sale by the booksellers. The most attractive shops are on Fabrique and St. John Sts., and in the vicinity of the French Cathedral, or Basilica. Kailways. — The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point Levi, 317 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. from New York. Passengers take the Grand Trunk ferry-steamer near the Champlain Market. The North Shore Railway runs from Quebec to Montreal and Ottawa, along the N. shore of the St. Lawrence. The Quebec and Lake St. John Railway runs to St. Raymond, a hand- some French village of 1,600 inhabitants, 42 M. distant, and is being prolonged to Lake St. John. Stages run from its station of St. Ambroise to Indian Lorette and from Valcartier Station to Valcartier. Steamships. — The steamships of the Allan line leave Quebec for Lough Foyle and Liverpool and Glasgow every Saturday, during the season of summer-navigation. The Dominion Line also sends steamships weekly to Liverpool. The vessels of the Quebec S. S. Co. leave every week for Father Point, 176 M. ; Metis, 207 ; Gaspp, 443 ; Perc^, 472 ; Summerside, 710 ; Charlottetown, 784 ; and Pictou, 829. The St. Lawrence S N. Co. runs to Bay St. Paul, 55 M. ; Eboulement, 66; Murray Bay, 82j Riviere du Loup, 112 ; Tadousac, 134 ; L'Anse St. Jean, 166 ; Ha ! Ha ! Bay, 207; Chicoutimi, 235. Smaller boats run to Pointe aux Trembles, 21, Les Eeu- reuils, 27; Platon and Portneuf, 36 ; Deschambault, 45 ; Grondines, 48; and St. Anne de la Perade, 58 ; also to St. Lambert, 9 ; and St. Jean, 17 ; also, during the pilgrimage-season, to St. Anne de Beaupre. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi several times an hour ; and to the Isle of Orleans. 256 Route es. QUEBEC. Quebec, "the Gibraltar of America," and the second cih' in the Do- minion of Canada, is sitnated on a rocky promontory at the continence of the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, ISO M. from Montreal, and over 400 ]\I. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has about 75,000 inhabitants, with 6 banks, G Masonic lodges, and numerous newspapers in the French and the English languages. The chief business of the city is in the hand- ling and exportation of lumber, of which $5-7,000,000 worth is sent away annually. There are long lines of coves along the St. Lawrence shore, above the city, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts which come down from the northern forests. A very consid- erable export trade in grain is also done here, and the various supplies of the populous counties to the N. and E. are drawn from this point. Ship-building is a leading industry, and many vessels of the largest size have been launched from the shipyards on the St. Charles; but the business has fallen oft' very considerably of late. Of late years several important manufactories have been established in the Lower Town, and the city is expected to derive great benefit from the convergence here of several lines of railway, connecting with the transatlantic steamships, and making it a depot of immigration and of freighting. The introduction of an abun- dant and poworf\d water supply from Lake St. Charles and the establish- ment of a fire-brigade and alarm-telegraph have preserved the city, during late years, from a recurrence of the terrible fires with which it was for- merly scourged. A second main was laid in 1883. Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the Upper Town and Lower Town, the former standing on an enwalled and strongly forti- fied bluft'350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the contracted strands between the clitls and the rivers. The streets are narrow, crooked, and often very steep, and the houses are generally built of cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity. It is the most quaint, picturesque, and mediaeval- looking city in America, and is surrounded by beautiful suburbs. " Take mountain and plain, sinuous river, and broad, tranquil waters, stately ship and tinv boat, CTutle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fruitful fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural sph-e, tiow- ery garden and sombre foi-est, — group them all into the choicest picture of ideal beauty vonr fancy can create, arch it over with a cloudless sky, light it up with a radiant "sun, and "lest the sheen should be too dazzling, hang a veil of lighted haze over all, to soften the lines and perfect the repose, — you will then have seen Quebec on this September morning." (EuoT Wariu'rton. ) " Quebec ivcalls Angouieme to my mind : in the upper city, stairways, narrow streets, ancient houses on the verge of the cliiT: in the lower city, the new fortunes, commerce, workmen ; — in both, many shops and much activity.'' (M. Sand ) " The scenic Ix-anty of Quebec has been the theme of general eulogy. The majestic appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortifications, — the cupolas and minarets, like those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun, — the loveliness of the panorama, —the noble'basin, like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety a hundi-ed sail of the line, — the graceful meandering of the river St. Charles, — the uui\ierons village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence, — the fertile fields dotted with innumei-able cottages, the abodes of a rich and moral peasantry, — the distant F.tjls of Montmoivncl, — the park-like scenery of Point Levi, — the beauteous Isle of Orleans, — and moi'e distant still, the fi owning Cape Tourrueute, and the lofty QUEBEC. Route 68. 257 range of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect, unite to form a coup rPatH, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed in any part of the world.'' (Hawkins. ) " I rubbed my eyes to be sure that 1 was in the ninetoentli century, and was not entering onii of those portals wliich sometimes adorn tlie frontispiece of old black- letter volumes. I thought it would be a good place to read Froissart's Chronicles. It was sucli a reminiscence of the Middle Ages as Scott's novels. " Too much has not been said about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of Cape Dian^ond are onuiipresent. You travel 10, 20, 80 M. up or down the river's banks, you ramble 15 M. among the hills on cither side, and then, when you have long since forgotten tliem, perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the road or of your body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky No wonder if Jaques Cartier's pilot exclaimed in Norman-H'rencli, Que. bed ( ' What a peak! ') when he saw this cape, as some suppose. Every modern traveller invol- untarily uses a similar expression The view from Cape Diamond has been compared by European travellers with the most remai'kable views of a similar kind in Europe, such as from Edinbui'gh Castle, Gibraltar, Ciutra, and others, and pre- ferred -by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views which I have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified city, and not from a soli- tary and majestic river cape alone that this view is obtained I still remember the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, — the answering head- lands of Point Levi on the S. E , — the frowning Cape Tourmente abruptly bounding the seaward view far in the N. E., — the villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg on the N., — and farther \V. the distant Val Cartier, sparkling with white cottages, hardly removed by distance through the clear air, — not to mention a few biue mountains along the horizon iu that direction. You look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills, according to the guide-book, forms ' the portal of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay.' " (Thoreau.) " There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the sur- rounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Eosphorus, the airy site of the citadel ard town calls to mind Inuspruck and Edinburgh. Quebec may be best described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two centuries ago had been encased in amber, transportea by magic to Canada, and placed ou the summit of Cape Diamond." " Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- tary town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and permanently built, —stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important parts, by walls and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon ; . . . . founded upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country; 3-400 miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying fleets of foreign mer- chantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- port ; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting iu its environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold of Siberia ; governed by a people of difierent language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privilege, civil and religious : such are the prominent features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec. A seat of ancient Dominion, — now hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries, ^ — formerly the seat of a French empire in the west, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of illustrious commanders, — throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance of war ! Who could approach such a city without emotion ! Who in Canada has not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (Prop. SiiJ.iMAN ; in 1820.) " Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- mercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an eagle, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an American city inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government; a European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; a city with about the same Q 258 Route 68. QUEBEC. latitude as Paris, while successively combining the torrid climate of southern regions with the Keverities of an hyperborean winter ; a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, where the labors of our (French) missions are still uninterruijted along- side of the undertakings of the Bible Society, and where the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, find refuge under the aegis of British Puritanism." (X. Marmier's Letlres sur V Ameriqiie , 18G0.) " Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates and posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs of burni.shed tin, like tho.se of Liege; processions of the Ilost ; aliars decked with flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of the British lines- man, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France. '. . . . There has been no dying out of the race among the French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands that they did 100 years ago. The American soil has left their physical type, re- ligion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. They herd together in their rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on Sundays, — as gayly as once did their Norman sires, — and keep up the fieur-de-lys and the memory of Monttaim. More French than the French are the Lower Canada habitans. The pulse-beat of the continent finds no echo here." (Sir Charles Dilke.) "Curious old Quebec I of all the cities of the continent of America the most quaint! It is a peak thickly populated I a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and at the same time smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles, although according to the ordinary laws of matter they ought to fall off hke a bur- den placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet the [houses and castles hold there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, far from the beaten paths of the European tourists, .... a curiosity without parallel on this .side of the ocean. We traversed each street as we would have turned the leaves of a book of engravings, containing a new painting on each page The local- ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried elsewhere I When Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up near Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm all travellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort in vogue in the 19th century." (Henry VV^ard Beecher.) " On I'a dit, Quebec est un promontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua- ble. La citadelle s'eleve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du fleuve ses cr(^neaux brants. Le voyageur s'etonne, apres avoir admire les bords verdoyants et fleurjs du Saint-Laurent, les forets aux puissantes ramures pleines de mysteres et d'ombre, les riantes vallees pleines de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout k coup cette ville qui semble venir d'Europe et qui serait moins etrange sur les bords du Rhin aux dramatiques legendes. Mais Quebec n'est pas unc ville ou I'l' tranger vienne se distraire et chercher d'oubli un theatre i grands luxes, a grands spectacles C'est peut-etre la seule ville du monde ou les gens aient droit de se plaindre et oii ils ne se plaignent pas. J'ai tcrit que Quebec est une forteresse remarquable ; elle clfeve son front superbe et se cambre avec fierte dans sa robe de pierre. Elle a conserve un air des temps chevaleresques, elle a soutenu des si ges, elle a reiju son bapteme du feu. En longeant ces vieux murs, en admirant cette forteresse t'levce conime un nid d'aigle sur un roc sourcilleux, on se croirait dans une ville du moyen Sige, au temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces villes accoutumees aux bruits des armes, aux fanfares et aux hymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace cadence d'une sentinelle. Dans cette ville et aux alentours, que d'evenements out etc accompli ! Quelle lutte pleine de poesie ht'roique I Que de vicissitudes ! et quel courage ! En quelque lieu que vous alliez, a la basse-ville, sur le chemin Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur les rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parle a voa yeux, tout a une voix qui exprime quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pierrea mguies sout autour de vous comme les lantdmes qui reliechlsseut le passe." QUEBEC. Route 68. 259 The Dufferin Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and be"-ins on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau of St. Louis, which was built b}'- Champlain in 1G20, and extends for a quarter of a mile to the base of the citadel, making it the longest prome- nade of the sort in the world. It was opened on June 10, 1879, by the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, in the presence of 10,000 people. The old Chateau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by lire. The terrace is 182 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpassing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream.' On one side are the lofty fortilied bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while be- vond are seen the farms oC L'Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond, and over all, are the bold peaks of the Lau- rentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river. The Terrace is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents an attractive scene in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. On the site of the Old Chateau erected in 1779 for the British Governors a great modern hotel is in process of construction. " There is not ia the world a nobler outlook than that from the Terrace at Que- bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the guard-ships' masts. Aci'e upon acre of timber comes iloating down the stream above the city, the Canadian boat-songs just reaching you upon the heights; and beneath you are lleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, embark- ing the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be seen." (Sir Cuarles Dilke.) " On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and the Lower Town has illuminated its narrow streets and its long dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- ing and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, the scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above all, that one is struck with the resemblance between Quebec and the European cities ; it might be called a city of France or Italy transplanted ; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight is needed to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America.-' " At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces had aci^uired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St, Louis was remarkable as having been the site Avhence the French governors exercised an immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Missisiippi to its outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English Colonies in constant alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the coun- cil chamber of the castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil, many a long delib- eration and deep-laid project, to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At another period, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British arms, and until the recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat comprehended the whole American con- tinent north of Mexico." (1I.\wk.ins.) 260 Route 68. QUEBEC. The Anglican Cathedral occupies the site of the ancient Recollet Con- vent and gardens, and is a plain and massive building, 135 ft. long, with a spire 152 ft. high. It was built by the British government in 1803-4, and received its superb communion-service, altar-cloths, and books as a present from King George III. There is a chime of 8 bells in the tower, which makes pleasant music on Sundays; and the windows are of rich stained glass. The interior is plain and the roof is supported on Corinthian pillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hang the old Crimean colors of the 69th Eegiment of the British army. Under the altar lie the remains of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- ei'nor-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the memorials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, alongside of which is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, on a background of black marble. Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, "If your Majesty had faith, there would be no difficult}'." "How so? " said the king. Mountain answered, " If you had faith, you would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would ■be done." It was. Between the cathedral and the Dufferin Terrace is a pretty little park called the Place d''Armes, beyond which are the crumbling ruins of the court-house, destroyed by fire in 1871. Beyond the court-house (on St. Louis St.) is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old-time structures of the St. Louis Hotel and the ancient Crown-Lands building, known as the Kent House, from the fact that Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father of Queen Victoria), dwelt here during his long sojourn at Quebec. Oppo- site the St. Louis Hotel is a quaint little building (now used as a barber- shop), in which Montcalm held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs out through the ramparts, traversing a quiet and solidly built quarter, and is prolonged beyond the walls as the Grand All^e, passing the magnifi- cent new Parliament Buildings. The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town. The Jesuits' College has recently been torn down, and its place remains drearily empty. Markets are not now held on the Square, but outside St. John's Gate. " A few steps had brought them to the market-square in front of the cathedral, ■where a little belated traffic still lingered in the few old peasant-women hovering over baskets of ?uch fruits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the States, and the housekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved mechanically up and down before the high portal of the Jesuit Barracks, over the arch of which were still the letters I. H. S. carved long ago on the keystone ; and the ancient edifice itself, with its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, had every right to be a monastery turned barracks in France or Italy. A row of quaint stone houses — inns and shops — formed the upper side of the square, while the modern buildings of the Rue Fabrique on the lower side might serve very well for QUEBEC. Route 68. 261 that show of improvement which deepens the sentiment of the neighboring antiquity and decay in Latin towns. As for the cathedral, which faced the convent from across the square, it was as cold and torpid a bit of Renaissance as could be found in Rome itself. A red-coated soldier or two passed through the square : three or four neat little French policemen lounged about in blue uniforms and flaring havelocks ; some walnut-faced, blue-eyed old citizens and peasants sat upon the thresholds of the row of old houses and gazed dreamily through the smoke of their pipes at the slight stir and glitter of shopping about the fine stores of the Rue i'abrique. An air of serene disoccupation pervaded the place, with which the drivers of the long rows of calashes and can-iages in front of the cathedral did not discord. Whenever a stray American wandered into the square, there was a wild flight of these drivers towards him, and his person was lost to sight amidst their pantomime. They did not try to underbid each other, and they were perfectly good- humored. As soon as he had made his choice, the rejected multitude returned to their places on the curbstone, pursuing the successful aspirant with inscrutable jokes as he drove ofiF, while the horses went on munching the contents of their leathern head-bags, and tossing them into the air to shake down the lurking grains of corn." (HoWELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) The magnificent new Parliament and Departmental Buildings are on the Grand Allee, on high ground outside the St. Louis Gate, and vi-ere begun in 1878. The halls of the It^cal Parliament were begun in 1882. The buildings are of gray stone, very large and massive, and present an impos- ing appearance when seen from the ramparts, or from the distant valley villages. It was at one time intended to have built the new Parliament House on the site of the Jesuits' College, a vast quadrangular pile, 224 by 200 ft. in area, founded in 16-46, and demolished about five years ago, after a long period of desertion and dilapidation. The Jesuits' College was founded in 1637, one year before Harvard College, and performed a noble work in its day. It was suspended in 1759 by Gen. Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 the property reverted to the crown, on the death of the last of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used as barracks until the British armies evacuated Canada " From this seat of piety and learning issued those dauntless missionaries, who made the Gospel known over a space of 600 leagues, and preached the Christian faith from the St. Law. rence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suffered death in the most cruel form ; all underwent danger and privation for a series of years, with a con- stancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and the admiration of posterity." The * Basilica of Quebec is on the E. side of the Market Square, and was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, when it was elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by the bombardment from Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the Conquest, and its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, "** the Crucifixion, hjVan Dych (" the Christ of the Cathedral"; the finest paint- ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, Halle ; the Pentecost, Vignon; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting 262 Route 68. QUEBEC. . on Christ, Restout (in the choir); the Nativity, copy from Annihale Ca- racci; Holy Family, Blanchard. The Basilica occupies the site of the ancient church of Notre Dame de la Recou- vrance, built in 1633 by Champlair , in memory of the recoTery of Canada by France. Within its walls are buried Bishops Laval and Plessis ; Champlain, the heroic ex- plorer, founder and first Governor of Quebec ; and the Count de Frontenac, the fiery and chivalric Governor of Canada from 1688 to 1698. Alter his death his heart was enclosed in a leaden casket and sent to his widow, in France, but the proud countess refused to receive it, saying that she would not have a dead heart, which, while living, had not been hers. The noble lady (" the marvellously beautiful Anne de la Grand-Trianon, surnamed The Divine'") was the friend of Madame de S(^vign?, and was alienated from Frontenac on account of his love-affair with the brilliant Versaillaise, Madame de Montespan. Most of the valuable paintings in the Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, vrere bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and convents had been pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased from their captors, and sent to the secure shores of New France. Back of the Basilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive palace of the Archbishop, surrounded by quiet gardens. To the E. are the Parlia- ment Building and the Grand Battery. The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Seminaire and Le Petit Seminaire, the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the study of litera- ture and science (for boys)^ and the course extends over nine years. Boarders pay $150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar uniform. The quadracgle, with its old and irregular buildings ; the spot- less neatness of the grounds ; the massive Avails and picturesquely outlined groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. " No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you are inti'oduced to his modest apartment, where you find him in his sou'ajie, with all the polish, learning, and boyiliommie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- ductt'd over the building in a courteous manner. The Seminary Cliapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the en- trance): the Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, La Gren e ; the Virgin attended by Angels, Dieu; the Crucifixion, Monet; the Hermits of the Thebaid, Ouillot; the Vision of St. Jerome, D' Hidlin ; the Ascension, Philippe de Champagne ; the Burial of Christ, Hutin ; (over the altar) the Flight into Egypt, Vanlno ; above which is a picture of Angels, Lebriin : the Trance of St. Anthonj', Farrocd cf Avignon ; the Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne ; St. Peter freed from Prison, Be la Fosse; The Baptism of Christ, Ha lie ; St. Jerome Writing, J. B. Champagne ; Adoration of the Magi, Bonnicu. ''The Chapel on the r. of the chief altar con- tains the relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus." The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 1663 by M de Laval, who endowed it with all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Semi- nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 1865 a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 there were 54 teachers and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 400 (exclusive of the University students). " When we awake its departed shades, they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and ttood QUEBEC. Route 68. 263 serene before the direst shapes of death. Men of courtly natures, heirs to the polish of a far-reaching ancestry, here with their dauntless hardihood put to shame the boldest sons of toil." The * Laval University is between the Seminary gardens and the ram- parts, and may be reached from St. Famille St. The main building is 280 ft. long and 5 stories high, is built of cut stone, and cost $ 225,000. The roof is a flat sanded platform, securely enrailed, where the students promenade and enjoy the grand * view of the city, the river, and the Laurentian Mts. Vis- itors are admitted to tlie collections of the University on application to the janitor. The reception-rooms contain the great picture of the Madonna of Quebec, a portrait ofPius IX., by Posywafoyii, and other paintings. The large hall of convocation has seats for 2,000, Avith galleries for ladies. The chem- ical laboratory is a fire-pi'oof chamber, modelled after that of King's Col- lege, London; and the dissecting-room is spacious and well arranged. The * mineral museum was prepared by the late Abb^ Haiiy, an eminent scientist, and contains specimens of the stones, ores, and minerals of Canada, Avith a rare and valuable collection of crystals. It fills a long series of apartments, from which the visitor is ushered into the ethnologi- cal and zoological cabinets. Here are a great number of Indian remains, implements, and weapons, and other Huron antiquities; Avith prepared specimens of Canadian animals and fish. The Library contains 70,000 volumes (about half of Avhich are French), arranged in tAvo spacious halls, from Avhose AvindoAvs delightful vicavs are obtained. The * Picture-Gal- lery has lately been opened to the public, and is the richest in Canada. The works are mostly copies from the old masters, though there are sev- eral undoubted originals. It is by far the finest gallery N. of Ncav York, and should be carefully studied. The visitor should also see the brilliant collection of Canadian birds; and the costly philosophical and medical apparatus, imported from Paris. The extensive dormitories occupy sub- stantial stone buildings near the University, OA^er the gardens. The Seminary was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, first Bishop of Quebec, and has been the central poAver of the Catholic Church in this Province for over two centuries. The Laval University was founded in 1852, and has had the privileges of a Catholic University accorded to it by Pope Pius IX. The processes of study are modelled on those of the University of Louvain. The department of arts has 14 professors, the law has 6, divinity has 5, and medicine has 8. There are also 24 professors in the Minor Seminary. The Parliament Building is on the site of Champlain's fort and the old Episcopal Palace, and is an extensive but plain building, whose glory has departed since the decapitalization of Quebec. The LegislatiA'e Council of the Province meets in a pleasant hall, upholstered and carpeted in crim- son, with a very large throne, over which is a canopy surmounted by the arms of the United Kingdom. There are spacious galleries for visitors. The hall of the House of Assembly is on the front of the building, and is upholstered in gi-een. Back of the speaker's chair is a line of Corinthian pilasters upholding a pediment on which are the Eoyal Arms. The ^ Li- 264 Houte 68. QUEBEC. hrary occupies a large and qniet apartment on the first floor, and is rich in French-Canadian literature. Such glory as was left after the decapitaliza- tion, hereinbefore referred to, was conclusively removed on the night of April 19, 1883, when the old Parliament Building (except part of its west wing) was destroyed by fire. Mountain-nUl St. descends by the place of the Prescott Gate, to the Lower Town, winding down the slope of the chff. On the r., about ^ of the way down, are the * Champlain Steps, or Cote la Montagne, a steep, crowded, and picturesque stairway leading down to Notre Dame des Victoires (see page 271). Kear the foot of the steps is a grating, over the place where the remains of Champlain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel. The Cote la IMontagne has reminded one author of Xaples and Trieste, another of Venice and Trieste, and another of Malta. The new Post-Office is a handsome stone building at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. In its front wall is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and gilded, under which is the inscription : — " Je siiis un chien qui ronge I'os ; {" I am a dog gnawing a bone. En le rongeant je prend mon repos. While I gnaw I take my repose. Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu The lime will come, though not yet, Que je mordrais qui m'aura mordu." When I will bite him who now Bites me.") This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had suffered wrong from him, but soon after the carved stone had been put into the front of Philibert's hovTse, that gentleman was assassinated by an officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian army, but was pursued by Philibert's brother, and was killed, at Pondi- cherry, after a severe conflict. The Post-Office occupies the site of the Grand Place of the early French town, on which encamped the Huron tribe, sheltered by the fort from the attacks of the piti- less Iroquois. Here afterwards lived the beautiful Miss Prentice, with whom Nelson fell in lore, so that he had to be forced on board of his ship to get him away. " Hovr many changes would have ensued on the map of Europe I how many now horizons in history, if Nelson had deserted the naval service of his country in 1782 ! Without doubt, Napoleon would have given law to the entire world. His supremacy on the sea would have consolidated his rule over the European continent ; and that because an amorous young naval officer was seized by a passion for a bewitching Canadian girl I " Near this place the Duke of Clarence, then a subaltern of the fleet, but afterwards King William lY. of England, followed a young lady home in an un- seemly manner, and was caught by her father and very soundly horsewhipped. The * Ursuline Convent is entered from Garden St., and is a spacious pile of buildings, commenced in 1686, and covering 7 acres with its gardens and offices. There are 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in embroidery, painting, and fancy articles. The parlors and chapel may be visited by permission of the chaplain (whose oflSce is adjacent); and in the latter are some valuable paintings: * Christ at the Pharisee's House, by Philippe de Champagne ; Saints Nonus and Pelagius, Prndhonime ; the Saviour Preaching, P. de Champagne ; the Miraculous Draught of Fish, Le Dieu de Jouvenet ; Captives at Algiers, Restout ; St. QUEBEC. Route 68. 265 Peter, Spanish School ; and several others. In the shrines are relics of St. Clement Martyr, and other saints from the Roman catacombs. Within a grave made by a shell which bui-st in this chapel during the bombardment of 1759 is buried "the High and Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of Montcalm," and over his remains is the inscription, "Honneur a Mont- calm! Le destin en lui d^robant de la victoire I'a recompense par nne mort glorieuse." Montcalm's skull is carefully preserved under glass, and is shown as an object worthy of great veneration. The first Superior of the Ursuline Convent was Mother Marie de I'Incamation, who was "revered as the St. Tex-esa of her time." She mastered the Huron and Algonquin languages, and her letters to France form one of the most valuable rec- ords of the early days of Canada. The convent was founded in 1G39, when the first abbess landed in Quebec amid the salutes of the castle-batteries ; and the special .work of the nuns was that of educating the Indian girls. The convent was burnt down in 1650, and again in 1683,. when the Ursulines were sheltered by the Hopital- ieres. The Archbishop has recently ordered that the term of profession shall be for seven years, instead of for life. Morrin College occupies a massive stone building at the corner of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts., and is the only non-Episcopal Protestant col- lege in the 'Province. It was founded by Dr. Morrin, and has 5 professors, but has hadlbut little success as an educational institution. The build- ing was erected by the Government in 1810, for a prison; and occupied the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison until the ne-\7 Penitentiary was built, on the Plains of Abraham, and in the N. Aving are the " sombre corridors that not long ago resounded with the steps of the jailers, and the narrow cells that are never enlivened by a ray of light." The * Library of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society is in the N. wing of Morrin College, and contains a rai'e collection of books re- lating to Canadian history and science, in the French and English lan- guages. This society is renowned for its valuable researches in the annals of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes of records. It includes in its membership the leading literati of Eastern Canada. There is a small but interesting museum connected with the library-hall. St. Andreio's CJiurch, with its school and manse, occupy the triangle at the intersection of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts. It is a low, quaint build- ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previously, from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians had worshipped in the Jesuits' College. The Wesleyan Church is a comforta- ble modern building, just below Morrin College; beyond which, on Dauphin St., is the chapel of the Congregationalists (Roman Catholic). At the corner of St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of Wolfe, which is nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec as does the Maimikin to Brussels. It was once stolen at night by some 12 266 Route 68. QUEBEC. roystering naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was re- turned many months after, enclosed in a coffin. The * Hotel-Dieu Convent and Hospital is the most extensive pile of buildings in Quebec, and is situated on Palace St. (r. side) and the Eam- part. E. of the long ranges of buildings (in which 650 sick persons can be accommodated) are pleasant and retired gardens. The convent-church is entered from Charlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: tlie Nativity, by Stella ; the Virgin and Child, Coyjoel ; the Vision of St. Teresa, Mena- geot ; St. Bruno in Meditation, Le Sueur (called '* the Raphael of France ") ; the * Praying Monk, by Zurbaran (undoubted); and fine copies of the Twelve Apostles, by Raphael, and the Descent from the Cross, by Rubens (over the high altar). The Hotel Dieu was founded by the Duchesse d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Riche- lieu) in 1639. In 1654 one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built during the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. There are 30-40 cloistered nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attendance by the best doctors of the city. The singing of the nuns during the Sunday services will interest the visitor. The most precious relic in the Hotel-Dieu is a silver bust (in life size) of Br^beuf, in whose base is presei'ved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Br^beuf, aNor- n>an Jesuit of noble blood, arrived at Quebec with Champlain in 1633, and went to the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and labored successfully in the work of converting the nation. He often said: " Sentio me vehementer impelli ad morienduvi proChrislo " ; and his wish was gratified when his mission-town of St. Ignace was stoi-nied by the Iroquois (in 1649) He was bound to a stake and scorched from head to foot ; tlie savages cut away his lower lip, and thrust a red-hot iron down his throat ; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot collars (•' but the indomitable priest stood like a rock") ; poured boiling water over his head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism ; cut strips of flesh from his limbs, and ate them before his eyes ; scalped him ; cut open his breast, and drank his living blood ; filled his ejes with live coals ; and after four hours of torture, a chief tore out his heart and devoured it. " Thus died Jean de Brebeuf, the founder of the Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr He came of a noble race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel ; but never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- digious a constancy. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- ishment of his murderers.' " The delicate and slender Lalemant, Br6beuf's col- league on the mission, was tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and exqiiisite varieties of torment. " It was said that, at times, he seemed beside him- self; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he offered his sufferings to Heaven as a sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts. * The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be " the coldest place in the British Empire." Since the evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned b}'^ Canadian militia- men, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The **view from the most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the Duiferin Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent in the world. The QUEBEC. Route 68. 267 St. Charles is seen winding through a beautiful undulating plain, and the spires of Beauport, Chai'lesbourg, and Lorette, with the white cottages around them, form pleasing features in the landscape. On the S. of the parade are the officers' quarters and the bomb-proof hospital, while bar- racks and magazines are seen in advance. The armory contains a great number of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. The Citadel is separated from the town by a broad glacis, which is broken by three ravelins ; and the wall on that side contains a line of casemated barracks. The entrance to the Citadel is by way of a winding road Avhich leads in from St. Louis St. through the slope of the glacis, and enters first the outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond the strong Chain Gate. Thence it passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is faced with .masonry, and at this point opens into a narrow parade, over- looked by the retiring angles of the bastion. The curious iron-work of the Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular parade, under the loopholes 'of the Dalhousie Bastion. " Such structures carry us back to the Middle Ages, the siege of Jerusalem, and St. Jean d'Acre, and the days of the Buccaniers. In the armory of the Citadel they showed me a clumsy implement, long since useless, which they called a Lombard gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was such a Lombard gun, fit object for the museums of the curious Silliman states that ' the cold is so intense in the winter nights, particularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels cannot stand it more than one hour, and are relieved at the expiration of that time; and even, as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in case of the most extreme cold.' I shall never again wake up in a colder night than usual, but I shall think how rapidly the sentinels are relieving one another on the walls of Quebec, their quicksilver being all frozen, as if apprehensive that some hostile Wolfe may even then be scaling the Heights of Abraham, or some persevering Arnold about to issue from the wilderness ; some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. W. coast, have chosen that moment to assault the Citadel. Why I should as soon expect to see the senti- nels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh, which have so long been buried to the world. What a troublesome thing a wall is ! I thought it was to de- feud me, and not I it. Of course, if they had no walls they would not need to have any sentinels . " ( Tn oreau . ) The Citadel was formerly connected with the Artillery Barracks, at the farther end of the city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,837 yards long. These fortifications are 345 feet above the river, and considerably higher than the Upper Town. The rock on which they are founded is of dark slate, in which are limpid quartz-crystals. The picturesque walls of Quebec are of no defensive value since the modern im- provements in gunnery ; and even the Citadel could not prevent dangerous ap- proaches or a bombardment of the city. Skilful military engineers have therefore laid out a more extensive system of modern fortifications, including lines of powerful detached forts on the heights of Point Levi, and at Sillery. The former were begun in 1867, and are nearly completed ; but the Sillery forts are not yet commenced. The spirit of utilitarianism, which has levelled the walls of Frankfort and Vienna and is menacing Boston Common, has been attacking the ramparts of Qviebec for many years. The St. Louis and Prescott Gates were removed in 1871, and the Pal- ace and Hope Gates in 1873. The better sentiment of the scholars and public men of the Province, headed by Lord Dufferin, stayed this tide of so-called improvement, and started the work of restoration. A magnificent new portal of masonry, with towers and mediaeval appurtenances, was erected on the site of the St. Louis Gate in 1878-79 ; and at the same time another very imposing entrance, called Kent Gate, was opened between this and St. John's Gate. Other projects are maturing, to still further enrich and beautify the ancient fortress-city, and to erect a stately palace for the Governors-General, on the Citadel. 268 Route 68. QUEBEC. The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (within), and the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John's Gate, crossing the new Kent Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the antiquated ordnance at the embrasures. On the r. are the Con- gregational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; and Montcalm's Ward and the new Parliament Building are on the 1. * St. John's Gate is a strong and graceful structure which was erected in 1869. While rally- ing his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally wounded; and Col. Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this point while Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To the 1. is St. John's Ward (see page 269) ; and the road to St. Foy passes below. The ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. follow their course by the Artillery Barracks, amid fine grounds at the S. W. angle of the fortifications. The French garrison erected the most important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the British Govern- ment has since made large additions. The barracks are now occupied by (■overnment works. On and near St. Helene St. are several churches, — St. Patrick's (Irish Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the Baptist, and the Con- gregational. After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the Palace Gate, the rambler may follow the course of the walls from the Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy the crest of the cliff, and command fine views over the two rivers and the Isle of Orleans and Laurentian Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillery. The walk takes an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- dens for nearly 500 ft. The streets which intersect the Rampart beyond this point are of a quaint and pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Howells : " The thi-esholds and doorsteps were covered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth ; the wooden sidewalk was very clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself; and at the foot of the hill down which it sloped was a breadth of the (ity wall, pierced for musketry, and, past the corner of one of the houses, the half-length of cannon showing. It had all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old-World travel, in_ which the past and present, decay and repair, peace and war, have made friends in an effect that not only wins the eye, but, however illogically, touches the heart; and over the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscape as I know not what European street can command : the St. Lawrence, blue and wide ; a bit of the white village of Beauport on its bank ; then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows ; then the purple heights ; and the hazy heaven above them." Since Prescott Gate fell, there was " nothing left so picturesque and characteristic as Hope Gate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europe'there is a more mediaeval-looking bit of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age, and the gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set thick with mighty bolts and spikes. The wall here sweeps along the brow of the crag on which the city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stone- parapeted curves and angles from the Upper to the Lower Town, where, in 1775, nothing but a narrow lane bordered the St. Lawrence. A considerable breadth of land has since been won from the river, and several streets and many piers now stretch between this alley and the water ; but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps QUEBEC, Eoute68. 269 along under the shelter of the city wall and the overhanging rock, which is thickly- bearded with weeds and grass, and trickles with abundant moisture. It must be an ice-pit in winter, and I should think it the last spot on the continent for the summer to find ; but when the summer has at last found it, the old Sault au Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Southern leisure and abandon, not to be matched anywhere out of Italy. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Gate, behind which the defeated Americans took refuge from the fire of their enemies, the vista is almost unique for a certain scenic squalor and gypsy luxury of color : sag-roofed barns and stables, weak-backed and sunken-chested workshops of every sort lounge along in tumble-down succession, and lean up against the cliff in every imaginable posture of worthlessness and decrepitude ; light wooden galleries cross to them from tlie second stories of the houses which look back on the alley ; and over these galleries flutters, from a labyrinth of clothes-lines, a variety of bright-coloi-ed garments of all ages, sexes, and conditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland dogs." (HowELLS's A Chance Acquaintance.) Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gap caused by the removal of Hope Gate, the Rampart promenade turns to the S., by the immense block of the Laval University (see page 263) and its concealed gardens. The course is now to the S., and soon reaches the * Grand Bat- tery, where 22 32-pounders command the river, and from whose terrace a pleasing view may be obtained. The visitor is then obliged to leave the Avails near the Parliament Building (see page 263) and the site of the Pres- cott Gate. A short detour leads out again to the DufFerin Terrace (see page 259). Des Carrieres St. i-uns S. from the Place d'Armes to the Gov- ernor's Garden, a pleasant summei'-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- ing the elegant and classic inscription: Mortem. Virtus. Communem. Famam. Historia. m02sfumentum. posteritas. Dedit. In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to the r. on St. Denis St., its northern outwoi'ks and approaches may be seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chalmers Church is reached. This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by the Presbyterians, and its services have all the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and through St. John's Gate. Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, to the Convent of the Gray Sisters, which has a loftj^ and elegant chapel. There are about 70 nuns, whose lives are devoted to teaching and to visiting the sick. This building shelters 136 orphans and infirm persons, 270 Route 68. ■ QUEBEC. and the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles valley, commanding fine views. Just above the nunnery is the Convent of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); bej-ond which is the stately Church of St. John (Catholic), whose twin spires are seen for many leagues to the N. and W. The interior is lofty and light, and contains 12 copies from famous European paintings, executed by Plamondon, a meritorious Canadian artist. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. from this church to the Grande Alice, passing just inside the line of the Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is about ^ M. from St. John's Church. " Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The river St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rajs of the departing luminary, the light still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlcsbourg, until it fades away beyond the lofty mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) " A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St Charles, bathing in tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- ever." (Marshall.) The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near the site of the St. Louis Gate. On the r. is the skating-rink, beyond which are the pleasant borders of the Grand Allde. The Convent of the Good Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's " Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 500 girl-students. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand AUee was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to takecareof the widows and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near the corner of De Salaberry St. is St. BridgeVs Asylum, connected with St. Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearly opposite, and is a handsome building of white brick, where 70 old men and young girls are kept from want by the bounty' of the ladies of Quebec. The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of heights. They were erected in 1807-12, at an expense of $60,000, and are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they are 7 ft. thick. The new Jail is about J M. in advance of the towers, and is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All^e beyond the toll-gate), and on the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), Is a monument consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a square base, on which is the inscription ; QUEBEC. Route 68. 271 HEKE DIED WOLFE victokious. Sept. 13. 1759. "The horror of the nij^ht, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he with a handful of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- minating life where his fmie began Ancient story may be ransacked, and ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to rank with Wolfe's." (Wiluam Pitt.) Tlie Lower Town. The most picturesque appx'oach from the Upper to the Lower Town is by the Champlain Steps (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the long lines of steam- boat wharves. Notre Dame 'des "Victoires is in the market square in the Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Dame des Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- stroyed by the conquei-ing British ; and in 1759 it was burned during the bombardment ^rom Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious Charaplain Marlcet, near an open square on whose water-front the river- steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great timber-coves above. St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of the chief trade of the city, containing numerous banks, public offices, and wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is named SauU au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff above, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the great piers of Pointe a Carey and to the imposing classic, building of the * Custom-HoTise, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St, Charles Rivers. St. Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. The Queeri's Fuel-Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- noyed the garrison that the buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from the batteries of the Upper Town. It is now a hay and cattle market. 272 Houte.eS. QUEBEC. St. Paul St. is prolonged by St. Joseph St., the main thoroughfare of this quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartieraud St. Koch Wards. The hitter is occupied chiefly by manufactories and shipyai-ds (on the shores of the St. Charles): and the narrow and plank-paved streets of Jaques Cartier, toward the northern walls, are filled with quaint little houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian artisans. St. Roch's Church is a very spacious building, with broad in- terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Convent of Notre Dame is opposite St. Boch's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who teach 725 childa-en. The * Marine Hospital is a large and imposing modem building, in Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres on the banks of the St. Charles River. The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St Ours St., near the St. Charles. They were founded by St. Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1693), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this work, erecting the finest building in Canada (at that time). It is now conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings b}' Legare, with an Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. Pointe aux Liei-res, or Hai-e Point, is beyond the General Hospital, on the mead- ows of the St. Charles. It is supposed to be the place wliere the pious Fmuciscan monks founded the first mission in Canada. Jaques Carticr's winter-quarters in lo3t3 were here, and on leaving this point he carried otf the Indian king, Donnacona, who was afterwards baptized with great pomp in the magnificent cathedral of Rouen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas- trous battle on the Plains of Abraham The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., and is occupied by the homes of the lower classes, with the heights towai-d St. Foy rising on the S. St. Sauveur's Church is the only fine building in this quarter. In May, 15.35, Jaques Cartier with his patrician officers and hardy sailors attended high mass and received the bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of St. Malo, and then departed across the unknown western seas. The largest of his vessels was of only 120 tons" burden, yet the fleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended the broad St. Law- rence. Having passed the dark Saguenay cliffs and the vine-laden shores of the Isle of Orleans, he^ entered a broad basin where " a mighty promontory, rugged and bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current. Here, clothed in the majesty of sohtude, breathing the stern poetry "of ^he wilderness, rose the chfls now rich with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, where Wolfe, Montcalm, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nameless barbar- ism, and a cluster of wigwams held the site of the i-ock-built city of Quebec. Its name was Stadacone, and it owned the sway of the royal Donnacona." It is held as an old tradition that when Cartier"s Norman sailors first saw the promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quel bed '' (" What a beak I '•) which by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the place in lovingmemory of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear a magnified i-esemblance. But the moi-e likely origin of the name is fi-om the Indian word kebec, signifying a strait, and applied to the compai-ative narrowing of the river above the Basin. " It is, however, held in support of the Norman origin of the name that the seal of William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk in the loth century, bears the title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had lai-ge domains in France, and was the vic- tor at Crevant and Compeigne, and the conqueror of Joan of Arc, but wa^ impeached QUEBEC. Route 68. 273 and put to death (as narrated by Shakespeare, King Henry VI , Part 11., Act IV., Scene 1) for losing the English provinces in France after 34 arduous campaigns. When Cartier went to Montreal his men built a fort and prepared winter-quarters near the St. Charles River. Soon after his retui-n an intense cold set in, and nearly every man in the fleet was stricken down with the scurvy , of which many died iu great suffering. In the springtime, Cartier planted the cross and fleur-de-lis on the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several of his chiefs as prisoners. These Indians were soon afterwards received into the Catholic; Church, with much pomp and ceremony, aud died within a year, in France. In 1541 Cartier returned with 5 vessels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, but the Indians were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandoned. Soon after- wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on. the same site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken up. In the year 1608 the city of Quebec was founded by the noble Champlain,i who erected a fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan monks arrived in 1615, and the Jesuits came in 1644. In 1628 Sir David Kirke vainly attacked the place with a small English fleet, but in 1629 he was more suc- cessful, and, after a long blockade, made himself master of Quebec. It was restored to France in 1632 ; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the Lower Town. Champlain's successor was Charles de Montmagny, a brave and de- vout Knight of Malta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed the name of Onontio (" Great Mountain '"). The work of founding new settlements and of proselj'ting the Hurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from the rock of Quebec. After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found that another element was necessary iu order to make them permanent and progres- sive. Therefore, between 1665 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom were of the French peasantry ; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies (" defnoiselles bien choisies''-). These cargoes included a wide variety, from Parisian vagrants to Nor- man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, "mixed goods " {une marchandise melee). The government provided them with dowries ; bachelors were excluded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by " marks of infamy "; and the French Crown gave bounties for children (each inhab- itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 livres). About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraordinary festivities on the occasion of the arrival of the bones of St. Flavien and St. Felicity, which the Pope had pre- sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored relics were borne in solemn pro- cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of saluting batteries, and were escorted by the Marquis de Tracy, the Intendant Talon, and the valiant Courcelles, behind whom marched the royal guards and the famous Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Salieres, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endowed with the revenues of the ancient abbeys of Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father Hennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. In 1672 the Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely repulsed an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps's fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the assailants lost their admiral's standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston against Quebec, but he lost in one daj'- eight vessels and 884 men by shipwreck ou the terrible reefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On the night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted iip stream on the rising tide, and succeeded in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They, were fired upon by the French outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- ^ Champlain was born of a good family in the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became a naval offtcer, and was afterward attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1(303 he ex- plored the St. Lawrence River up to the St. Louis Rapids, and afterward (until his death in 1635) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He was a brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one.soul is of mo;e im- portance than the founding of a new empire." He established strong missions among the Hurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 12* . B 274: Route 68. QUEBEC. ish lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in the short but desperate battle which ensued both the genei-als were mortally wounded. The English lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largelj" composed of provincial levies (with the regiments of La Guienne, Royal Eoussilon, Beam, La Sarre, and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. in April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Ventadour — which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murraj' was defeated and hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from 132 guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The British supremacj' in Canada was soon afterwards assured \)y the Treat_y of Paris, and Yoltaire congratulated Louis XY. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun- try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature (June 28, 1746), " Canada est delendn ,''' were at last verified, but the campaigns had cost the British Government $400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted in the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in tlie British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. In the winter of 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive city walls ; so an assault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 31 , 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Englanders and Tirginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced to take refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- tinentals N. along Champlaiu St. bj- the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Champlain St. from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all proba- bility Montgomery would have ci-o;sed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, witli 1.500 men flushed with victory, would have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery ana many of his ofiicers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over tlie place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell . Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's army when Quebec was taken from tlie French 15 years before, and knew the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope., Quebec was the capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-capital, until the found- ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its specialty. In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated with great pomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin, Byzantine, Romanesque, Classic, and Gothic architecture, were erected over the streets of the Upper Town, and dedi- cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America ; an imposing procession pa.ssed under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the name and privileges of a ba?ilica ; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of ^30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga {Le Drapeau de Carillon), which floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Aber- QUEBEC. Route 68. 275 crombie on Lake Champlain (July 8, 1758), and is now one of the most esteemed trophies of Quebec. The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and alone, they passed forth from Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the remote West, bravely meeting death in its most liugering and horrible forms at the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, proudly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received their envoy with honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Roxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. "To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was wellnigh celestial. 'In the cli- mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to have no desire but God, no purpose but for God.' And again: 'To live in New France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' ' If,' adds Le Jeune, 'any one of those who die in this country goes to perdition, I think he will be doubly guilty.' " " Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to the missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- sion. These were no stern exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise, and bade them God-speed- Yet-, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that gave life to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, those hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping, or the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to be the missionary's portion " The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing. They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their courage fail ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human, yet so divine, in whom their fiith impersonated and dramatized the great principles of Christian faith, — virgins, saints, and angels, — hovered over them, and held be- fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They burned to do, to suifer, and to die : and now, from out a living martyrdom, they turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of the Iroquois. In 1647, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: " Do not imagine that the rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butchered: be it so. Those who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I see none of our company cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurons, and some of them protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the journey." "The iron Brebeuf, the gentle Garnier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, Du Peron, Poacet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, which amazed the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result of these missions, we soon become aware that the influence of the French and the Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century we do not often find those examples of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies ahve, it is true, but he seldom ate them ; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. He was a savage still, but not so often a devil." (Parkman.) The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. Francis Parkman : " The Jesuits of North America," '• The Pioneers of France in the New World," and " La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West." LeMoine'a " Quebec, Past and Present," and '' Picturesque Quebec," should also be read. 276 Route 69. BEAUPOKT. 69. The Environs of Quebec. This district is famed for its beauty, and is filled with objects of interest to the tourist. The suburban villages can be visited by pedestrian tours ; but in that case it is best to ctit off communication with the city, and to sweep around on the great curve which includes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish poor accommodations. Such a walking tour should be taken only after a season of dry weather, else the roads will be found very muddy. But all the world goes about in carriages here, and a caliche and driver can be hired at very low rates (see page 255). The drivers' statements of distances can seldom be relied on, for they gen- erally err on the side of expansion. "I don't know whether I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful little villages in the country all about it. The whole landscape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- geline.' .... But if we are coming to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no direction in which you can look about Quebec without seeing it ; and it is alM-ays mixed up with something so famihar and homehke that my heart warms to it." (HowELLS's A Chance Acquaintance.) ** Tlie Falls of Montmorenci are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, which is about 1 M. from the Upper-Town Market Square. The route usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the Queen's Fuel- Yard (see page 271) and St. Eoch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the 'Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. Eoch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- port Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near which is the villa of Glenalla. The asj'lum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; but the female department was destroyed by fire in January, 1875, and several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3^-5 M. from Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur Giflfard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war of the Conquest of Canada. It is " in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (sometimes but a few yards wide and J M. long), and the country is bristling with fences. In 1664 the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except one next to another " ; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should be not less than Ih arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of con- centration as a defence against the Indians ; and from the subdivision of estates by inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses rising here and there along the way. So late as 1827 Montmorenci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) had but 5 shops, 30 artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catholic), and 5 vessels (with an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few score understand the English language. MONTMORENCI FALLS. Route 69. 277 M. Rameau ("La France aux Colonies'''') has proved, after much labor and re- search, that the colonists who settled the Cote de Beaupr(5 and Beauport were from the ancient French province of La Perche ; adding that Montreal was colonized from the province of Anjou, the Isle of Orleans from Poitou, and Quebec, Trois Hivieres, and the Eicheiieu valley from Normandy. Beyond the church of Beauport the road continues past the narrow do- mahis on either hand, and runs along the side of the Haldimand estate. The Montmorenci Eiver is crossed, and the traveller stops at the Montmorenci Restaurant, where lunch may be obtained. At this point admission is given to the grounds about the Falls (fee, 25c.); and the tourist should visit not only the pavilion near the brink (which commands a charming view of Quebec), but also the small platform lower down (and reached by a long stairway), whence the best front-view is obtained. The descent to the basin below is difficult, and will hardly repay the labor of the return. A short distance below the Falls is the confluence of the Montmorenci with the St. Lawrence, and immense saw-mills are located there, employ- ing 7 - 800 men and cutting up 2,500 logs a day. Near the Falls is Haldi- mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension- bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the fatal abyss below. At the foot of these Falls an immense ice-cone (some- times 200 ft. high) is formed every winter, and here the favorite sport of tobogganning 's carried on. The * Natural Steps are 1^ M. above the Falls, where the Montmorenci is contracted into a narrow limit and rushes down with great velocity, having cut its bed down through successive strata and leaving step-like terraces on either side. Fine specimens of trilobites have been found in this vicinity. The road running on beyond the Montmorenci Restaurant leads to Ange Gardien and St. Anne (see Route 70). The views on the way back to Quebec are very beautiful. The old French habitans call the Montmorenci Fall, La Yache (" The Cow"), on account of the resemblance of its foaming waters to milk. Others attribute this name to the noise like the lowing of a cow which is made by the Fall during the prevalence of certain winds. Immediately about the basin and along the Mont- morenci River, many severe actions took place during Wolfe's siege of Quebec. This river was for a time the location of the picket-lines of the British and French armies. " It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired It is a splendid introduction to the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain iu its square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its harbor." (Thoreau.) " The effect on the beholder is most delightful. The river, at some distance, seems suspended in the air, in a sheet of billowy foam, and, contrasted, as it is, with the black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an object of the highest in- terest. It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended in the air ; this com- parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the grandeur of the cataract." (Sn,- LIMAN.) " A safe platform leads along the rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the fall, and on a level with it. Here the gulf, nearly 300 ft. deep, with its walls of chocolate-covered earth, and its patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, opens to the St. Lawrence. Montmorenci is one of the loveliest waterfalls. £a its 278 Route 69. INDIAN LORETTE. general character it bears some resemblance to the Pisse-Vache, in Switzerland, which, however, is much smaller. The water is snow-white, tinted, in the heaviest portions of the fall, with a soft yellow, like that of raw silk. In fact, broken as it is by the irregular edge of the rock, it reminds one of masses of silken, flossy skeins continually overlapping one another as they fall. At the bottom, dashed upon a pile of rocks, it shoots far out in star-like radii of spray, which share the regular throb or pulsation of the falling masses. The edges of the fall flutter out" into lace-like points and fringes, which dissolve into gauze as they descend." (^Bayard Taylor.) " The Falls of Montmorenci present the most majestic spectacle in all this vicin- ity, and even in the Province. The river, in its course through a country which is covered with an almost unbroken forest, has an inconsiderable flow of water except when swelled by the melting of the snow or the autumnal rains, until it reaches the precipice, where it is 8-10 fathoms wide. Its bed, being inclined before arriving at this point, gives a great velocity to the current, which, pushed on to the verge of a perpendicular rock, forms a large sheet of Avater of a whiteness and a fleecy appear- ance which resembles snow, in falling in a chasm among the rocks [251] ft. below. At the bottom there rises an immense foam in undulating masses, Avhich, when the sun lights up their brilhant prismatic colors, produces an inconceivably beauti- ful effect." (BOUCHETTE.) " For those who go from Montmorenci to Quebec, the time to be on the road is about sunset. The city, climbing up from the great river to the heights, on which stands the castle, looks especially beautiful in the warm light that then falls full upon It, and the level rays, striking on the quaint old metal-sheathed roofs and on all the westward-facing windows, light up the town with a diamond-like sparkling of won- derful brilliancy." (White's Sketches from America.) * Indian Lorette (small inn) is 9 M. from Quebec, by the Little Kiver Road. It is an ancient village of the Hurons ("Catholics and allies of France"), and the present inhabitants are a quiet and religious people in whom the Indian blood predominates, though it is never unmixed. The men hunt and fish, the women make bead-work and moccasons, and the boys earn pennies by dexterous archery. There are 60 Huron families here, and their quaint little church is worthy of notice. The population of the parish is 3,500, and the district is devoted to farming. The * Lorette Falls are near the mill, and are very pretty. The best description of Lorette is given in Howells's A Chance Acquaintance (Chap. XIII.), from which the following note is extracted : " The road to Lorette is through St. John's Gate, down into the outlying meadows and r5'e-fields, where, crossing and recrossing the swift St. Charles, it finally rises at Lorette above the level of the citadel. It is a lonelier road than that to Montmorenci, and the scattering cottages upon it have not the well-to-do prettiness, the operatic repair, of stone-built Beauport. But they are charming, nevertheless, and the people seem to be remoter from modern influences B3- and by they came to Jeune-Lorette, an almost ideally pretty hamlet, bordering the road on either hand with galleried and balconied little houses, from which the people bowed to them as thej' passed, and piously en- closing in its midst the village church and churchyard. They soon after reached Lorette itself, which they might easily have known for an Indian town by its un- kempt air, and the irregular attitudes in which the shabbj' cabins lounged along the lanes that wandered through it The cascade, with two or three successive leaps above the read, plunges headlong down a steep, crescent-shaped slope, and hides its foamy whiteness in the dark-foliaged ravine below. It is a wonder of gracefjul motion, of iridescent lights and delicious shadows ; a shape of loveliness that seems instinct with a conscious life." Charles Marshall says, in his " Canadian Dominion " (London, 1871) : " For pic- turesque beaiity the environs of Quebec vie with those of any city in the world. .... It is not too much to say that the Lorette cascades would give fame and for- tune to any spot in England or France ; yet here, dwarfed by grander waters, they remain comparatively unknown." CHAELESBOURG. Route 69. 279 When the French came to Canada the Hurons were a powerful nation on the shores of Lakes Huron and Simcoe, with 32 villages and 20-30,000 inhabitants. They received the Jesuit missionaries gladly, and were speedily converted to Chris- tianity. Many of them wore their hair in bristling ridges, whence certain aston- ished Frenchmen, on first seeing them, exclaimed " Quelles hures! " (" What boars' heads ! ") and the name of Hurcm supplanted their proper title of Ouenrlal or Wyan- dot. The Iroquois, or Five Nations (of New York), were their mortal foes, and after many years of most barbarous warfai-e, succeeded in storming the Christian Huron towns of St. Joseph, St. Igaace, and St. Louis. The nation was annihilated : a few of its people fled to the far West, and are now known as the AVyandots ; multitudes were made slaves among the Iroquois villages ; 10,000 were killed in battle or in the subjugated towns ; and the mournful remnant fled to Quebec. Hundreds of them were swept away from the Isle of Orleans by a daring Iroquois raid ; the survivors encamped under the guns of the fort for 10 years, then moved to St. Foy ; and, about the year 1673, this feeble fragment of the great Huron nation settled at Ancienne Lorette. It was under the care of the Jesuit Chaumonot, who, while a mere boy, had stolen a small sum of money and fled from France into Lombardy. In filth and poverty he begged his way to Ancona, and thence to Loretto, where, at the Holy House, he had an angelic vision.- He went to Rome, became a Jesuit, and experi- enced another miracle from Loretto ; after which he passed to the Huron mission in Canada, where he was delivered from martyrdom by the aid of St. Michael. He erected at Ancienne Lorette a chapel in exact fac-simile of the Holy House at Lo- retto ; and here he claimed that many miracles were performed. In 1697 the Hurons moved to New Lorette, "a wild spot, covered with the primitive forest, and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St. Charles foams, white as a snow-drift, over the black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through matted boughs of the pine and the fir, to bask for brief moments on the mossy rocks or flash on the hurrying waters. On a plateau beside tlie torrent, another chapel was built to Our Lady, and another Huron town sprang up ; and here to this day, the tourist finds the remnant of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and sewers of moccasons, the Huron blood fast bleaching out of them, as, with every generation, they mingle and fade away in the French population around." (Parkman. ) Visitors to Lorette are recommended to return to Quebec by another road from that on which they went out. Ancienne Lorette may be reached from this point, and so may the lakes of Beauport and St. Charles. 1^ days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine hunting and fishing. Charlesbourg (Huot's boarding-house) is 4 M. from Quebec, on a far- viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent and old church (with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- donna over its altars). It is the chef-lieu of the seigniory of Notre Dame des Anges, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then known as Bourg Royal) retired the inhabitants of the Isle of Orleans, in 1759, when ordered by Montcalm to fall back before the British. They were 2,500 in number, and were led by their curds. Pleasant roads lead from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St. Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- teau Bigot. Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette, It is 4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. The red trout of this lake are of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores. " On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty and picturesque wildness of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into it, and forming lit- tle bays. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular and diversified, are overlooked by mountains which exalt, beyond them, their more distant summits." (Heriot.) 280 Route 69. CHATEAU BIGOT. ChS.teau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Charlesbourg, where the traveller turns to the r. around the church, and rides for 2 M. along a ridge which affords charming views of the city on the r. " It is a lovely road out to Chateau Bigot. First you drive through the ancient suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- way, between pretty country-houses, towards the village of Charlesbourg, while Quebec shows, to yoi;r casual backward glance, like a wondrous painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of the cliflf; then the thronging gables and chimneys of St. Eoch, and again many spires and convent walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some distance through a narrow wheel-track, half ovei-grown with foliage. There remain the gables and division-wall, in thick masonry, with a deep cellar, outside of which are heaps of debris, over which grow alders and lilacs. The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are found ; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montagne des Ormes. This land was in the Fief de la TrimtS, which was granted about the year ]640 to M. Denis, of La Rochelle. The chiteau was built for his feudal mansion by the Royal Intendant Talon, Baron des Islets, and was afterwards occupied by the last Royal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dissolute and licentious French satrap, who stole $2,000,000 from the treasury. The legend tells that Bigot used this building for a hunting-lodge and place of revels, and that once, while pursuing a bear among the hills, he got lost, and was guided back to the chateau by a lovely Algonquin maiden whom he had met in the forest. She remained in this building for a long time, in a luxurious boudoir, and was visited frequently by the Intendant ; but one night she was assassinated by some unknown person, — either M. Bigofs wife, or her own mother, avenging the dishonor to her tribe (see " Chateau Bigot," by J. M. LeMoine, sold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c. : also Howells's A Chance Acquaintance, Chap. XII.). Sillery (or St. Colomb) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand All^e and the Cap-Eouge Eoad (see page 270). After passing Wolfe's Monument, the road leads across the Plains of Abraham, on which were fought the sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1760. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of Quebec is guarded. The Convent of Jesus-Maria is a new building of great size and imposing architecture ; opposite which is the handsome Gothic school-house which was given to this parish by Bishop Mountain. In the vicinityof Sillery are several tine villas, amid ornamental grounds: March- mont, once the home of Sir John Harvey and Bishop Stewart; Spencer Wood, "the most beautiful domain of Canada," with a park of 80 acres, formerly the home of the Earl of Elgin and other governors, now the resi- dence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Quebec ($10,000 is voted annually for its maintenance by the Legislature); Woodfeld, founded by the Bishop of Samos; Spencer Grange, where lives J. M. LeMoine, the author and antiquarian; Bardfield, Bishop Mountain's former home; Cataracouy, where the British princes, Albert Edward CAP ROUGE. Route 69, 281 and Alfred, sojourned; Benmore, Col. Rhodes's estate; and several others. The beautiful cemetery of Mount Hermon, which was laid out by Major Douglas, the planner of Greenwood Cemetery, is in this vicin- ity, and is adorned by the graceful chapel of St. Michael. The people of Sillery have recently (1870) erected a monument, sustaining a mar- ble cross, near the place where Father Mass^ was buried, in 1646, in the ancient Church of St. Michael (which has long since disappeared). The old Jesuit Residence still remains, and is a massive building of stone. The CheTalier Noel Brulart de Sillery, Knight of Malta, and formerly a high offi- cer at the court of Queen Marie de Medicis, having renounced the woi'ld, devoted his vast revenues to religious purposes. Among his endowments was the foundation of a Christian Algonquin village just above Quebec, which the Jesuits named Sillery^ in his honor. Here the Abenaquis of Maine learned the elements of Catholicism, which was afterwards unfolded to. them in their villages on the Kennebec, by Father Druilletes. This worthy old clergyman followed them in their grand hunts about Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms of this world, but very small as^ price for the Kingdom of Heaven." From the mission-house at Sillery departed Jogues, Br^beuf, Lalemant, and many other heroic missionaries and martyrs of the primitive Canadian Church. " It was the scene of miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kinds, and the centre of the mis- sionary efforts among the Indians. Indeed, few events of the picturesque early his- tory of Quebec left it untouched ; and it is worthy to be seen, no less for the wild beauty of the spot than for its heroical memories. About a league from the city, where the irregular wall of rock on which Quebec is built recedes from the river, and a grassy space stretches between the tide and the foot of the woody steep, the old mission and the Indian village once stood ; and to this day there yet stands the stalwart frame of the first Jesuit Residence, modernized, of course, and turned to secular uses, but firm as of old, and good for a century to come. AH around is a world of lumber, and rafts of vast extent cover the face of the waters in the ample cove, — one of many that indent the shore of the St. Lawrence. A careless village straggles along the roadside and the river's margin ; huge lumber-ships are loading for Europe in the stream ; a town shines out of the woods on the opposite shore ; nothing but a friendly climate is needed to make this one of the most charming scenes the heart could imagine." Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the road which passes through Sillery. It is a village of 800 inhabitants, with a timber- trade and a large pottery; and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily stages. The cape forms the W. end of the great plateau of Quebec, which, according to the geologists, was formerly an island, around which the St. Lawrence flowed down the St. Charles valley. Beyond Cap Rouge are sev- eral very interesting villages: St. Augustin, with its venerable church; Deschambault ; and other old French parishes. The mansion of Re.dchiffe IS on the cape, and is near the site where Jaques Cartier and Roberval passed the winters of 1541 and 1542. On the same point batteries were erected by Montcalm and Murray. In returning from Cap Rouge to the city, it may be well to turn to the 1. at St. Albans and gain the St. Foy road. The village of St. Foy is 5 M. from Quebec, and contains many pleasant villas and mansions. To the N. is the broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles, in which may be seen Ancienne Lorette (two inns), a lumbering village of 3,000 inhabitants, on the Gosford Railway, 4^ M. from St. Foy. Beyond the Church of St. 282 Route 69. POINT LEVI. Foy is the * monumental column, surmounted by a statue of Bellona (pre- sented by Prince Napoleon), which marks the site of the fiercest part of the Second Battle of the Plains, in which De Levis defeated Murray (1760). The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, and stands over the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Passing now the handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of St. John is entered. Point Levi (or Levis) is on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite Quebec, with which it is connected by ferry-boats running every 15 min- utes. It has about 10,000 inhabitants, Avith a large and increasing trade, being the terminus of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and of the Intercolonial and Levis & Kennebec Railways. On the lofty plateau beyond the town are the great forts which have been erected to defend Quebec from a second bombardment from this shore. Thej' are three in number, 1 M. apart, solidly built of masonry and earth, with large casemates and covered ways; and are to be armed with Moncrieff" guns of the heaviest calibre. It is said that these forts cost S 15,000,000, — a palpable exaggeration," — but they have been a very expensive piece of work, and are said to be more nearly like Cherbourg, the best of modern European fortifications, than any others in America. The batteries with which Gen. Wolfe destroyed Quebec, in 1759, were located on this line of heights. St. Joseph is 2 1 M. from Point Levi, and transacts a large business in ■wood and timber. South Quebec is above Point Levi, and is closelj'^ con- nected with it. The Liverpool steamers stop here, and there are great shipments of lumber from the harbor. The town has 3,000 inhabitants, and is growing rapidly, St. Romuald (or New Liverpool) is 5 M. from Quebec, and adjoins S. Quebec, It has several factories and mills and a large lumber-trade, and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily steamers. The * Church of St. Romuald is "the finest on the Lower St. Lawrence," and is celebrated for its paintings (executed in 1868- 9 by Lamprech of Munich), In the choir are the Nativit}', Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ ; in the Chapel of St. Joseph, the Marriage of St. Joseph, the Flight into Egypt, Nazareth, Jesus and the Doctors, the Death of St. Joseph ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the Annunciation, the Visitation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in the Temple. Above are eight scenes from the life of St. Romuald, from his Conver- sion to his Apotheosis. There are 16 medaUions on a gold ground, representing Sts. Peter and Paul, the Four Evangelists, and five doctors of the Greek Church and five of the Latin Church. The altars were designed by Schneider of Munich, and the statues were carved in wood by Riidmiller of Munich. The * Chaudiere Falls are 4^ M. beyond St. Romuald, and over 9 M. from Quebec. They can only be reached by walking a considerable dis- tance through the bordering fields. " The deep green foliage of the woods overhanging, the roar of the cataract, and the solitude of the place, espe- cially as you emerge suddenly from the forest fastnesses on the scene, pro- ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 70. 283 duce a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be forgotten." Some visitors even prefer this fall to tliat of Montmorenci. The Cliaudiere de- scends from Lake Megantic, near the frontier of Maine, traversing the Canadian gold-fields. Arnold's hungry and heroic army followed the course of this river from its source to its mouth in their arduous winter- march, in 1775. The Chaudiere Falls are 3 M. from its confluence with the St. LaAvrence, and at a point where the stream is compressed into a breadth of 400 ft. The depth of the plunge is about. 135 ft., and the waters below are continuall}'- in a state of turbulent tossing. At the verge of the fall the stream is divided by large rocks, forming three channels, of which that on the W. is the largest. The view from the E. shore is the best. " The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness and deeply solemn sound of the cataracts, all combine to present a rich assemblage of objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is in- stantaneously sm'prised by the delightful scene." 70. Q,uebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne.— The Goto de Beaupre. The steamer Montinorp/nci runs from Quebec to St. Anne twice a week. A bet- ter route is that by land, through the mediceval hamlets of the Cote de Beaupre. Three daj'S should be devoted to the trip, — one to go and one to return, and the other to the Falls of St. Anne and St. Fereol. Gentlemen who understand French will find this district very interesting for the scene of a pedestrian tour. Tlie inns at St. Anne and along the road are of a very humble character, resembling the way- side auberges of Brittany or Normandy ; but the people are courteous and well- disposed. Distances. — Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, 7 M. ; Ange Gardien, 10; Chateau Kicher, 15 ; St. Anne, 22 (St. Joachim, 27 ; St. Fereol, 30). The Seigniorj' of the Cote de Beaupre contains several i^arishes of the N. shore, and is the most mountainous part of the Province. It was granted in 1636, and is at present an appanage of the Seminary of Quebec. No rural district N. of Mexico is more quaint and mediaeval than the Beaupre Road, with its narrow and ancient farms, its low and massive stone houses, roadside crosses and chapels, and unpro- gressive French population. But few districts are more beautiful than this, with the broad St. Lawrence on the S., and the garden-like Isle of Orleans ; the towers of Quebec on the W., and the sombre ridges of Cape Tourmente and the mountains ' of St. Anne and St. Fereol in advance. " In the inhabitant of the Cote de Beaupre you find the Noraian peasant of the reign of Louis XIV., with his annals, his songs, and his superstitions." (Abb]^ Ferl.\nb ) "Though all the while we had grand views of the adjacent country far up and down the river, and, for the most part, when we turned about, of Quebec, in the horizon behind us, — and we never beheld it without new surprise and admiration, — yet, throughout our walk, the Great River of Canada on our right hand was the main feature in the landscape, and this expands so rapidly below the Isle of Orleans, and creates such a breadth of level surface above its waters in that direction, that, looking down the river as we approached the extremity of that island, the St. Law- rence seemed to be opening into the ocean, though we were still about 325 M. from what can be called its mouth." (Thoreau.) Quebec to the Montmoi'enci Falls, see page 276. Beyond the Falls the road passes on over far-viewing and breezy hills, and between the snug estates of the rural farmers with their great barns and exposed cellars (caves). The village of Ange Gardien is guarded at 284 Route 70. CHATEAU EICHEE. each end by roadside oratories, and lies in a sheltered glen near the river. It is clustered about a venerable old church, in which are paintings of the Annunciation and the Adoration of the Magi, On its front is a large sun- dial. This dreamy old parish has 1,500 inhabitants, and dates from 1678, •when it was founded by Bishop Laval. In 1759 it was overrun and occu- pied by the famous British corps of the Louisbourg Grenadiers. After ascending out of the glen of Ange Gardien, the road crosses ele- vated bluffs, and on the r. are rich and extensive intervales, cut into nar- row strips by walls. They extend to the margin of the river, beyond which are the white villages and tin-clad spires of the Isle of Orleans. Chateau Eicher is a compact and busy village of 2,000 inhabitants, over which, on a bold knoll, is the spacious parish-church. The views from the platform of this edifice are very pretty, including a large area of the parish, the village of St. Pierre on the Isle of Orleans, and the distant promontory of Cape Diamond. During the hunting season the Chateau- Eicher marshes are much frequented by Quebec sportsmen, who shoot great numbers of snipe, ducks, and partridges. The upland streams afford good trout-fishing. On a rocky promontory near Chateau Richer Tvas the site of the ancient Francis- can monastery. This massive stone building was erected about the year 1695, and was occupied by a community of peaceful monks. When the British army waa fighting the French near the Falls of Alontmoreuci,- a detachment was sent here to get provisions ; but the French villagers, under the influence of their spiritual guides, refused to give aid, and fortified themselves in the monastery. The reduc- tion of this impromptu fortress gave Gen. Wolfe considerable trouble, and it was only accomplished by sending against it the valiant Louisbourg Grenadiers and a section of artillery. The monks surrendered after their walls were well battered by cannon-shot, and were dispossessed by the troops. Before the bombardment the parish priest met the English officers, and told them that they fought for their king, and he should be as fearless in defending his people. The villagers made a fierce sortie from the convent during the siege, but were repulsed with the loss of 30 killed. The site of the monastery is now occupied by the school of the Sisters of Le Bon Pasteur, and part of its walls still remain. The little roadside auberge called the Hotel Campagne is about 1 M. be- yond Chateau Eicher. The *Sault a la Puce is about 2 M. beyond the village, and is visited by leaving the road where it crosses the Eiviere a la Puce, and ascending to the 1. by the path. The stream leaps over a long cliff, falling into the shadows of a bowery glen, and has been likened to the Cauterskill Falls. "This fall of La Puce, the least remarkable of the four which we visited in this vicinity, we had never heard of until we came to Canada, and yet, so far as I know, there is nothing of the kind in New England to be compared with it. Most travel- lers in Canada would not hear of it, though they might go so near as to hear it." (Thore.\u.) There are other pretty cascades farther up the stream, but they are difficult of access. " The lower fall is 112 ft. in height, and its banks, formed by elevated acclivities, wooded to their summits, spread around a solemn gloom, which the whiteness, the movements, and the noise of the descending waters combine to make interesting and attractive The environs of this river display, in miniature, a succession of romantic views. The river, from about one fourth of the height of the mountain, LA BONNE ST. ANNE. Route 70. 285 discloses itself to the contemplation of the spectator, and delights his eye with varied masses of shining foam, which, suddenlj' issuing from a deep ravine hollowed out by the waters, glide down the almost perpendicular rock, and form a splendid curtain, which loses itself amid the foliage of surrounding woods. Such is the scene which the fall of La Puce exhibits." (Heriot.) La Bonne St. Anne (otherwise known as St. Anne du Nord and St. Anne de Beaupr^) is 7 M. bej'ond Chateau Richer, and is built on a level site just above the intervales. It has about 1,200 inhabitants, and is sup- ported by the thousands of pilgrims who frequent its shrine, and by sup- plying brick to the Quebec market. Immense numbers of wild fowl (especially pigeons) are killed here every year. There are numerous small inns in the narrow street, all of which are crowded during the season of pilgrimage. On the E. of the village is the new Church of St. Anne, a massive and beautiful structure of gray stone, in classic architecture; 60,000 pilgrims visited the shrine in 1882. The old building of the * Church of St. Anne is on the bank just above, and is probably the most highly venerated shrine in Anglo-Saxon America. The relics of St. Anne are guarded in a crj^stal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when their contemplation is said to have effected many miraculous cures. Over the richly adorned high altar is a * picture of St Anne, by the famous French artist, Le Brun (presented by Viceroy Tracy); and the side altars have paintings (given by Bishop Laval) by the Franciscan monk Lefran- gois (who died in 1685). There are numerous rude ex-voto paintings, I'ep- resenting maiwelious deliverances of ships in peril, through the aid of St, Anne; and along the cornices and in the sacristy are great sheaves of crutches, left here by cripples and invalids who claimed to have been healed by the intercession of the saint. Within the church is the tomb of Philippe Rdnd de Portneuf, priest of St. Joachim, who was slain, with several of his people, while defending his parish against the British troops (1759). " Above all, do not fail to make your pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Anne Here, when Aillebout was governor, he began with his own hands the pious work, and a habitant of Beaupre, Louis Guimont, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came grin- niijg with pain to lay three stones in the foundation, in honor probably of St. Anne, St. Joachim, and their daughter, the Virgin. Instantly he was cured. It was but the beginning of a long course of miracles continued more than two centuries, and continuing still. Their fame spread far and wide. The devotion to St. Anne be- came a distinguishing feature of Canadian Catholicity, till at the present day at least thirteen parishes bear her name Sometimes the whole shore was cov- ered with the wigwams of Indian converts who had paddled their birch canoes from the farthest wilds of Canada. The more fervent among them would crawl on their knees from the shore to the altar. And, in our own day, every summer a far greater concourse of pilgrims, not in paint and leathers, but in cloth and millinery, and not in canoes, but in steamboats, bring their offerings and their vows to the ' Bonne St. Anne."" (Parkman.) According to the traditions of the Roman Church, St. Anne was the mother of the Blessed Virgin, and after her body had reposed for some years in the cathedral at Jerusalem, it was sent by St. James to St. Lazare, first bishop of Marseilles. He, in turn, sent it to St. Auspice, bishop of Apt, who placed it in a subterranean chapel to guard it fi-om profanation in the approaching heathen inroads. Barbarian hordes afterwards swept over Apt and obUterated the church. 700 year^ later, 286 Route 70. THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE. Charlemagne visited the town, and while attending service in the cathedral, several marvellous incidents took place, and the forgotten remains of St. Anne were recov- ered from the grotto, whence a perpetual light was seen and a delicious fragrance emanated. Ever since that day the relics of the saint have been highly venerated in France. The colonists who founded Canada brought with them this special de- votion, and erected numerous churches in her honor, the chief of which was St. Anne de Beau pre, which was founded in 1658 by Gov. d'Aillebout on the estate pre- sented by Etieune Lessart. In 1G6S the cathedi-al-chapter of Cai'casson sent to this new shrine a relic of St. Anne (a boue of the hand), together with a lamp and a reliquary of silver, and some fine paintings. The legend holds that a little child was thrice favored with heavenly visions, on the site of the church ; and that, on her third appearance, the Virgin commanded the little one to tell the people that they should build a church on that spot. The completion of the building was sig- nalized by a remarkable miracle. The vessels ascending the St. Lawrence during the French domination, always fired off a saluting broadside when passing this point, in recognition of their delivery from the perils of the sea. Bishop Laval made St. Anne's Day a feast of obligation ; and rich ex-voto gilts were placed in the church by the lutendant Talon, the -Marquis de Tracy , and M. d"Iberville, " the Cid of New France."' For over two centuries the pilgrimages have been almost incessant, and hundreds of miraculous cures have been attributed to La Bonne St. An)ie. Be- tween June and October, ISTi, over 20,000 pilgrims visited the church, some of whom came from France and some from the United States. An extract from a Lower- Canada newspaper of October, 187-4, describes one of the latest of these curious phenomena, the cunng of a woman who had been bedridden for 4 years: "She was placed in the Church of St. Anne, on a portable bed, at 6 o'clock on Wednesday morning. After low mass she was made to venerate the relics of St Anne. A grand mass was chanted a few minutes aftex'wards. Toward the middle of the divine office the patient moved a httle. After the elevation she sat up. At the termina- tion of the mass she got up and walked and made the circuit of the church." The Cote de Beaupre and the site of St. Anne Mere granted by the Compagnie des Cents Associes, in 1636, to the Sieur Chefl'ault de la lleguardiere, who, however, made but little progress in settling this broad domain, and finally sold it to Bishop Laval. In 1661, after the fall of Montreal, this district was ravaged by the merciless Iroquois, and in 16S2 St. Anne was garrisoned by three companies of French regu- lars. Ou the 23d of August, 1759, St. Anne was attacked by SCO Highlanders and Light Infantry and a company of Rangers, under command of Capt. Montgomery. The place was defended by 200 villagers and Indians, who kept up so hot a fire from the shelter of the houses that the assailants were forced to halt and wait until a flanking movement had been made by the Rangers. Many of the Canadians were slain during their retreat, and all who fell into the hands of the British were put to death. The victors then burnt the village, saving only the ancient church, in ■which they made their quarters. A tradition of the country says that they set fire to the church three times, but it was delivered by St. Anne. The following day they advanced on Ch^tteau Richer and Ange Gardien, burning evei-y house and barn, and cutting down the fruit trees and young grain. They were incessantly annoyed by the rifles of the countrymen, and gave no quarter to their prisoners. The * Falls of St. Anne are visited by passing out from St. Anne on the road to St. Joachim, as far as the inn, " hke an auherge of Brittany," at the crossing of the St. Anne Eiver. Thence the way leads up the river- bank through dark glens for 3-4 M., and the visitor is conducted by a guide. In descending from the plateau to the plain below, the river forms seven cascades in a distance of about a league, some of which are of rare beauty, and have been preferred even to the Trenton Falls, in New York. The lower fall is 130 ft. high. •' A magnificent spectacle burst upon our sight. A rapid stream, breaking its way through the dark woods, and from pool to pool among masses of jagged rock, sud- denly cleaves for itself a narrow chasm, over which you may spring if you have an iron "nerve, and then falls, broken into a thousand fantastic forms of spray along the ST. JOACHIM.' Route70. 287 steep face of the rock, into a deep gorge of horrid darkness. I do not know the vol- ume of water ; I forgot to guess the height, —it may be two hundred feet. Figures are absurd in the estimate of the beauty and grandeur of a scene like this. I only know that the whole impression of the scene was one of the most intense I have ever experienced. The disposition of the mass of broken waters is the most graceful con- ceivable. The irresistible might of the rush of the fall, the stupendous upright masses of black rock that form the chasm ; the heavy fringe of dark woods all around; the utter solitariness and gloom of the scene, — all aid to impress the imagination. An artist might prefer this spot to Niagara." (Marshall.) " Here the river, 1-200 ft. wide, comes flowing rapidly over a rocky bed out of that interesting wilderness which stretches toward Hudson's Bay and Davis's Sti-aits. Ha Ha Bay, on the Saguenay, was about 100 M. N. of where we stood. Looking on the map, I find that the first country on the N. which bears a name is that part of Rupert's Land called East Main. This river, called after the Holy Anne, flowing from such a direction, here tumbles over a precipice, at present by three channels, how far down I do not know, but far enough for all our purposes, and to as good a distance as if twice as far The foiling water seemed to jar the very rocks, and the noise to be ever increasing. The vista was through a narrow and deep cleft in the mountain, all white suds at the bottom." From the bed of the stream below " rose a perpendicular wall, I will not venture to say how far, but only tha*} it was the highest perpendicular wall of bare rock that 1 ever saw This precipice is not sloped, nor is the material soft and crumbling slate as at Montmorenci, but it rises perfectly perpendicular, like the side of a mountain fortress, and is cracked into vast cubical masses of gray and black rock shining with moisture, as if it were the ruin of an ancient wall built by Titans Take it altogether, it was a most wild and rugged and stupendous chasm, so deep and narrow where a river had worn it- self a passage through a mountain of rock, and all around was the comparatively untrodden wilderness." (Thoreau.) The base of the St. Anne Mts. is reached by a road running up the val- ley for 3-5 M, The chief peak is 2,687 ft. high, but the view thence is mtercepted by trees. The Valley of St. Fereol is 8 M. from St. Anne, and is surrounded by beautiful scenery. It contains 1,100 inhabitants, and in the vicinity are several lofty and picturesque cascades. St. Tite des Caps is a village of 800 inhabitants, 5 M. from the river, between Cape Tour- mente and the St. Fereol Mts. The trouting in these glens is very good, and rare sport is found at LaJce St. Joachim, several miles beyond. St. Joachim is 5 M. beyond St, Anne, and is a village of 1,000 inhabi- tants, situated near the river, and opposite St. Fran9ois d' Orleans. 2 M. beyond this point is the Chateau Bellevue and the farm of the Quebec Seminary. The summit of Cape Tourmente is about 3 M. from the chateau, and is sometimes ascended for the sake of its superb * view. The Seminarians have kept a cross upon this peak for the last half-century ; and in 1869, 44 Catholic gentlemen, led by the Archbishop of Quebec, erected a new one, 25 ft. high, and covered with tin. The Chciteau Bellevue is a long and massive building of limestone, situated near the foot of Cape Tourmente, and surrounded by noble old forests, in which are shrines of St. Joseph and the Virgin. The chateau is furnished with reading and billiard rooms, etc. , and is occupied every summer by about 40 priests and students from the Seminary of Quebec. The neat Chapel of St. Louis de Gonzaga (the pro- tector of youth) is S. of the chateau. Near this point Jaques Cartier anchored in 1535, and was visited by the Indians, who brought him presents of melons and maize. In 1823 Champlain came hither from Quebec and founded a settlement, whose traces are still seen. This post was destroyed by Sir David Kirke's men in 1628, and the settlers were driven away. St. Joachim was occupied in August, 1759, by 150 of the 78th Highlanders, who 288 Route 71. THE ISLE OF ORLEANS. had just marched down the Isle of Orleans, through St. Pierre and St. Famille. They were engaged in the streets by armed villagers, and had a sharp skirmish before the Canadians were driven into the forest, after which the Scottish soldiers fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the church. The site of the seminary was occupied before 1670 by Bishop Laval, who founded here a rural seminary in which the youth of the peasantry were instructed. They were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were in- structed in the mechanic arts and in various branches of farming. This was the first " agricultural college " in America. The broad seigniory of the Cote de Beaupre, which lies between St. Joachim and Beauport, was then an appanage of Bishop Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. "Above the vast meadows of the parish of St, Joachim, that here border the St. Lawrence, there rises like an island a low flat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- tant, towers the mountain prom.ontory of Cape Tourmente. You may climb its woody steeps, and from the top, waist-deep in blueberry-bushes, survey, from Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; or mount the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient pines, the river lies shimmering in summer haze, the cottages of the habitants are strung like beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beaupre, the shores of Orleans bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray cloud ; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- itude where it holds its savage revels Game on the river ; trout in lakes, brooks, and pools ; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains; a thou- sand resources of honest and healthful recreation here v.ait the student emancipated from books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills stand the dwellings of a peaceful peasantry, as difl'erent from the restless population of the neighboring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton village." (Park- man.) 71. The Isle of Orleans. steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from "West Point to St. Pierre, in 5 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M. ; and St Francois, 20 M. The S. shore road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, 7| ; St. John, 13^ ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. Pierre. The Isle of Orleans is about 3^ M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square miles (47,923 acres) of land, being 20 M. long and hi M. wide. The beau- tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and primitive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of the Lower Province, and justifj^ its title of "the Garden of Canada." The island was called Mini go by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here and carried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes in case of invasion. In 1535 Cartier explored these shores and the hills and forests beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, honey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds: " We found there great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world ; and for that we named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of Orleans, in honor of De Valois, Duke of Orleans, the son of Francis I. of France. The popular name was Ulsle des Sorciers (Wizards' Island), either on account of the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling future storms and nautical events, or else because the superstitious colonists on the mainland were alarmed at the nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to df'mons and wizards the dancing fires which were carried by the Indians in visiting their fish- nets during the night-tides. ST. PIEREE D'ORLEANS. Route71. 289 The island was granted in 1620 to the Sieur de Caen by the Duke de Montmorenci Viceroy of New France. In 1675 this district was formed into the Earldom of St' Laurent, and was conferred on M. Berthelot, who assumed the title of the Count of St. Lawrence. In 1651 the N. part was occupied by 600 Christian Hurons, who had taken refuge under the walls of Quebec from the exterminating Iroquois. In 1656 the Iroquois demanded that. they should come and dwell in their country, and upon their refusal fell upon the Hurons with a force of 3(J0 warriors, devastated the island, and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after to surrender and be led as captives into the Iroquois country, while the Tribe of the Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois in 1661, and in an action with them at Riviere Maheu, De Lauzon, Seneschal of New France, and all his guards were killed, preferring to die fighting than to surrender and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay was carried away and raised in tri- umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,000 in- habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and productive farms. Then came the advance of Wolfe's fleet ; the inhabitants all fled to Charlesbourg ; the unavailing French troops and artillery left these shores ; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S. E. point ; and soon afterward the Brit- ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. _ The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and titles are vested in ancient French fomilies of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- versified, and its pretty vistas justify Charlevox's sketch (of 1720): " We took a stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found this country beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ease." The agri- cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogressive ideas of the farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, plums, apples, and for a rare and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, generous, and hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still preserve the primitive Norman customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontena?. The Isle and the adjacent shore of Beauprehave been called the nursery of Canada, so many have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts of the Provinces. St. Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by ferry-steamers, which also run to BeauUeu. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Falls and Ange Gardien. The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by Pere Lale- mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the . present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron Renfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that time. The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, by the Sisters of the Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated the girls of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar- row and contracted cells, Avhose design has been long forgotten. The woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but Avas restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 13 s 290 Route 71. ST. LAUEENT D'ORLEANS. village is nearly opposite Chateau Kicher, and commands fine views of the Laurentian Mts. The Parish of St. Frangois includes the domain of the ancient fief of Argentenay, and was formed in 1678. In 1683 the first church was bu\lt, and the present church dates from 1736, and was plundered by Wolfe's troops in 1759. The view from the church is very beautiful, and includes the St. Lawrence to the horizon, the white villages of the S. coast, and the isles of Madame, Grosse, and Reaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks aci'oss the N. Channel upon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and the peaks of St. Ferdol ; and the view from the church is yet more exten- sive and beautiful. The church of St. John was built in 1735, near the site of a chapel dating from 1675, and contemporary with the hamlet. This parish is famous for the number of skilful river-pilots which it has furnished. It has about 1,300 inhabitants, and is the most im.portant parish on the island. It is nearly opposite the S. shore village of St. Michel (see page 254). St. Laurent is 7 M. from St. Jean, upon the well-settled royal road. The parish is entered after crossing the Riviere Maheu, Avhere the Seneschal of New France fell in battle. The Church of St. Laurent is a stately edifice of cut stone with a shining tin roof, and is 113 ft. in length. It re- placed churches of 1675 and 1697, and was consecrated in 1861. The Boute des Pretres runs N. from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and was so named 50 years ago, when this church had a piece of St. Paul's arm-bone, which was taken away to St. Pierre, and thence was stolen at night by the St. Laurent people. After long controversy, the Bishop of Quebec ordered that each church should restore to the other its own relics, which was done along this road by large pi'ocessions, the relics being exchanged at the great black cross midway on the road. 1^ M, W. of St. Laurent is the celebrated haven called Trou St. Patrice (since 1689), or Patricks Eole, where vessels seek shelter in a storm, or outward-bound ships await, orders to sail. The river is Ij M. wide here, and there are 10 - 12 fathoms of water in the cove. 2 M. W. of this point is the Caverne de Bontemps, a grotto about 20 ft. deep cut in the solid rock near the level of the river. QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. Route 7%. 291 72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River.— The North Shore of the St. Lawrence. The St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Company has several first-class steamers ply-« ing on the lower reaches of the river. The time-table helow is that of 1874 ; but if any changes have been made, they may be seen in the Quebec newspapers , or at the ticket-oifi.ce, opposite the St. Louis Hotel. At 7 A.M., on Tuesday and Friday, the Saguenay leaves Quebec for St. Paul's Bay, Les Eboulements, Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup (Cacouna), Tadousac, Ha Ha Bay, and Chicoutimi ; reaching Quebec again on Thursday and Monday mornings. On Wednesday, Thui-sday, and Saturday the Union or the St. Lmcrence leaves Quebec at 7 a.m., for Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, Tadousac, and Ha Ha Bay; reaching Quebec the second morning after. On Saturday the St. Lawrence leaves Quebec, at noon, for Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, and Rimouski ; reaching Quebec again on Tuesday morning. Distances. — Quebec to St. Laurent, 12 M. ; St. John" (Orleans), 17; Isle Ma- dame, 23 ; €ape Tourniente, 28 ; St. Francois Xavier, 45; St. Paul's Bay, 55 ; Les Eboulements, 66 ; Murray Bay, 82 ; Riviere Du Loup, 112 (Cacouna, 118) ; Tadousac, 134 (Chicoutimi, 235). The S. shore is described in Eoute 67 (pages 246-255), and the Isle of Orleans in Route 71. As the steamer moves down across the Basin of Quebec, beautiful * views are afforded on all sides, including a fascinating reti'ospect of the lofty fortress. " Behind us lay the city, with its tinned roofs glittering in the morning sunshine, and its citadel-rock towering over the river ; on the southern shore. Point Levi, picturesquely climbing the steep bank, embowered in dark trees ; then the wooded bluffs with their long levels of farm-land behind them, and the scattered cottages of the habitants, while northward the shore rose with a gradual, undulating sweep, glittering, fnr inland, with houses, and gardens, and crowding villages, until it reached the dark stormy line of the Laurentiau Mts. in the N. E .... The sky, the air, the colors of the landscape, were from Norway ; Quebec and the svirrounding villages suggested Normandy, — except the tin roofs and spires, which were Russian, rather; while here and there, though rarely, were the marks of English occupancy. The age, the order, the apparent stabilit}^ and immobility of society, as illustrated by external things, belonged decidedly to Europe. This part of America is but 70 or 80 years older than New England, yet there seems to be a difference of 600 years." (Bayard Taylor.) After running for 17 M. between the populous shores and bright villages of Orleans and Bellechasse (see page 254), the steamer tui'ns to the N. E., when off St. John, and goes tow^ard Cape Toui-mente, passing betw^een Isle Madame and the Isle of Orleans. Then St. Francois is passed, on the 1., and the meadows of Argentenay are seen, over which is St. Joachim. As the N. Channel is opened, a distant view of St. Anne de Beaupr^ may be obtained, under the frowning St. Aniie Mts. Cape Tourmente (see page 287) is now passed, beyond which are the great Laurentian peaks of Cape Rouge and Cajje Gribaune, over 2,000 ft. high, and impinging so closely on the river that neither road nor houses can be built. These mountains are o^" granite, and are partially wooded. 3 JM. N. E. of Cape Tourmente is a lighthouse, 175 ft. above the water, on the rugged slope of Cape Ronge. A few miles to the E. is the Sault au Cochon, under the crest of a mountain 2,370 ft. high. 292 Route 72. ST. PAUL'S BAY. Boticher asserted, in 1663, that the shore between Cape Tourmente and Tadousae was uninhabitable, " being too lofty, and all rockj^ and escarped." But the French Canadians, hardy and tireless, and loving the St. Lawrence more than the Normans love the Seine, have founded numerous hamlets on the rocks of this iron shore. The coast between St. Joachim and St. Frani^ois Xavier is as yet unoccupied. " We ran along the bases of headlands, 1,000 to 1,500 ft. in height, wild and dark with lowering clouds, gray with rain, or touched with a golden transparency by the sunshine, — alternating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly increased their beauty. Indeed, all of us who saw the Lower St. Lawrence for the first time were surprised by the imposing character of its scenery." (Bayard Taylor.) Beyond Abattis and the high cliffs of Cape Maillard the steamer pa.sses the populous village of St. Frangois Xavier, extending up the valley of the Bouchard Eiver. On the S. a long line of picturesque islets is passed (see page 254). Beyond Cape Labaie the, steamer lies to off St. Paul's Bay, whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. St. PauPs Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all French, and the village is clustered about the church and convent near the Gouffre Kiver. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, and curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish offers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist." The wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away all the bridges Avhich have been erected by the people. Passengers who wish to land at this point are transferred from the steamer to a large sail- boat. The vistas up the valleys of the Gouffre and the Moulin Rivers show distant ranges of picturesque blucniountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 1791 it isclaimcd that the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, after which one of the peaks to the N. belched forth great volumes of smoke and passed into tlie volcanic state, emitting columns of flame through sereral days. The peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of the Gouffre has been likened to the Yale of Clwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a fair road along the r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay are the ex- tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were explored by order of Intendant Talon, a century and a half ago. In the upper part of the valley, 9 M. from St. Paul's Bay, is St. Urbam, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitants. By this route" the tri-weekly Royal mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on the upper Sague- nay (see page 300). St. Placide (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paul's Bay, and has 400 inhabitants. " In all the miles of country I had passed over, I had seen nothing to equal the exquisite beauty of the Tale of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on which we stood, the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, and covered from end to end' with httle hamlets, and several churches, with here and there a few small patches of forest Like the Happy Talley of Rasselas, it was surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succes- sion one behind the other, stretchin'g' away in the distance, till they resembled a faint bkie wave in the horizon." ( Ballaxttne. ' " Nothing can be more picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed from the crest of Cap au Corbeau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of Cap au Corbeau ; to see the white-sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay ; Jp comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet ; the sinuous course of the Maree and of the serpentine Gouffre ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- tures ; to see the church and convent and the village, the Cap a la Rey, the bottom of the bay ; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, St. John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? " (Trddelle.) The Bay was settled early in the 17th century, and has always been noted for its ISLE AUX COUDKES. Route 72. 293 earthquakes and volcanic disturbances. In October, 1870, it felt such a severe shock that nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In 1759 the village was destroyed by Gorham's New-England Rangers, alter the inhabitants had defended . It for two hours. " Above the Gnlph I have just mentioned is the Bay of St. Paul, where the Hab- itations begin on the North Sjde ; and there are some Woods of Pine-Trees, which are much valued ; Here are also some red Pines of great Beauty. Messrs. of the Seminary of Quebec are Lords of this Bay. Six Leagues higher, there is a very high Promontory, which terminates a Chain of Mountains, which extend above 400 Leagues to the AFest ; It is called Cape Tourmente, probably because he that g,ive it this Name, suffered here by a Gust of Wind.'" (Charlevoix.) The W*. promontory of St. Paul's Bay is Cape Labaie ; that on the E , opposite the Isle aux Coudres, is Cape Corbfau. " This cape has something of the majestic and of the mournful. At a little distance it might be taken for one of the immense tombs erected in the middle of the Egyptian deserts by the vanity of some puny mortal. A cloud of birds, children of storm, wheel continually about its fir- crowned brow, and seem, by their sinister croaking, to intone the funeral of some dying man," Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle aux Coudres is the whu-lpool called Le Gouffre, where the water suddenly attains a depth of 30 fath- oms, and at ebb-tide the outer currents are repulsed from Coudres to Cor- beau in wide swirling eddies. It is said that before the Gouffre began to fill with sand schooners which were caught in these eddies described a series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the rocks. It was the most dreaded point on this shore, and many lives were lost here; but its navigation is now safe and easy. The Isle aux Coudres is 54 M. long and 2k M. wide, and is a charm- ing remnant of primitive Norman life. It has about 800 inhabitants, erj- gaged in farming, and more purely mediasval French than any other people in Canada. The houses are mostly along the lines of the N. W. and S. E. shores; and the Church of St. Louis is on the S. W. point. The island is still owned by the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was granted in 1687. Large numbers of porpoises are caught between this point and the Kiviere Quelle, on the S. shore. Bayard Ta3dor says: " The Isle aux Coudi-es is a beautiful pastoral mosaic in the pale emerald setting of the river." Off the Isle aux Coudres, and between that point and Riviere Ouelle, great num- bers of white whales are caught, in fish-pounds made for the purpose. These fish (often taken for porpoises) live in the Lower St. Lawrence from April to October, when they migrate to the Gulf and the Arctic Ocean. They are from 14 to 22 ft. in length, and yield 100-120 gallons of fine oil, which is much used for lighthouse purposes, because it does not freeze in winter. A valuable leather is made from their skins. When Cartier was advancing up the St. Lawrence in 1535, under the direction of the Quebec Indians whom he had abducted from Gasp ■, he landed on this island, and, marvelling at the numerous hazel-trees upon the hills, named it L' Isie aux Coudres (Hazel-tree Island). This point he made the division between the country of Saguenay and that of Canada. " In 1663 an Earthquake rooted up a Mountain, and threw it upon the Isle of Cou/fres, which was made one half larger than before, and in the Place of the Mountain there appeared a Gulf, which it is not safe to approach." The island was deserted by its inhabitants in the summer of 1759, when great British fleets were anchored off the shores, but several bnats' crews were driven from the strand by rangers. Three British officers landed on the isle, carrying a flag 294 Route 72. MURRAY BAY. •which they were about to raise on the chief eminence before the fleet ; but they were cut off by a small part}' of Canadians, and were led prisoners to Quebec. Ad- miral Durell hrst reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 3 French ves- sels bearing 1,800 barrels of powder. The steamer runs S, E. for several miles in the narrow channel between the Isle aux Coudres and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M. from St. Paul's Bay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Les ifiboulements, a farming district of 2,400 inhabitants. "High on the crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on landing at theEboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- tion of this village is one of the most quaint and charming on the river, and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The white houses are grouped snugly about the tall Notre Dame Church, above which, the dark peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. Tn the vicinity of Les "Rboulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slides of ions, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. The St. Lawrence ran " white as milk," as far down as Tadousac ; ranges of hills were thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains ; earthquakes shat- tered the houses and shook the trees until the Indians said that the forests were drunk ; vast fissures opened in the ground ; and the courses of streams were changed. Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and ghastly spectres were seen in the air ; roarings and mysterious voices sounded on every side ; and the confessionals of all the churches were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. The steamer now rounds the huge mass of ]\It. Eboulements, passing the rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneille. On the E. slope is seen the large village of St. Irenee, where 900 French people presei"ve their ancient customs and language. A few miles farther E. the steamer rounds in at Murray Bay, Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N, Shore, and has fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also one of the best fi.shing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with success in the Avaters of the beautiful Murray Eiver, or the Giavel and Petit Lakes, The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Pique, near which are the hotels, frequented in summer by many Quebec families, who enjoy the beautiful scenery of the adjacent country. There are also sum- mer cottages about the base of Cap a VAigle. The tourists occupy Point a Pique Avith their hotels, and make excursions to the lakes and the falls. The French town is at the bridge over the Murray River, and is clustered about the great church and the court-house of Charlevoix County. It has 3,000 inhabitants. " Of all tlie picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- merable swarms of tourists go every summer to take the waters, none will interest the lover of sublime landscapes more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy the rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He will not find here the beau- tiful wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or Rimouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during tiie dog-days; here is savage and uuconquered nature, and view-points yet more majes- tic than those of the coasts and walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable gorges ill the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the clouds, and among which the bears wander through July, in search of berries; where the RIVIERE DU LOUP. Route 72. 295 caribou browses in September ; where the solitary crow and the royal eagle make their nests in May ; in short, alpine landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, a Byronic nature, tossed about, heaped up in the North, far from the ways of civ- ilized men, near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the country in a manner to frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic inhabitants. According to some, in order to enjoy all the fulness of these austere beauties, one must be at the privileged epoch of life. If then you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy solitudes of the shores, the grottos, the great forests of Point a Pique or Cap i I'Aigle, or to capture by hundreds the frisking trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you must have a good eye, a well-nerved arm, and a supple leg." (LeMoine.) This district was formerly known as the King's Farm, and had 30 houses at the conquest of Canada. It was then granted to the Scottish officers. Major Nairn and Malcom Eraser, who soon promoted its settlement. It was explored in June, 1608, by Champlain, who named it Malle Bale, on account of " the tide which runs there marvellously, and, even though the weather is calm, the bay is greatly moved." It is still geuerally known as Malbaie, though the English use the name Murray Bay, given in honor of the general who granted it to the Scots. The Scotch famihes brought out by Fraser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A depot for American prisoners-of-war was established here in 1776, near the Nairn manor-house, and the barracks were built by the captives themselves. The great French settlement of St. Agnes., with 1,600 inhabitants, is 9 M. W. of Murray Bay, up the valley, and on the verge of the wide wilderness of the Crown Lands. A rugged road follows the N. shore from Murray Bay to the Saguenay River, a distance of about 40 M., passing the romantic St. Fidele (9 M. out ; 1,000 inhabitants), the lumbering village of Port an Persil, the hamlets of Black River, Port aux Quilles, St. Simeon, and Calliere, back of which are mountains where many moose and caribou are found. Still farther E. is Bale des Rochers, on an island-studded bay. The steamer now stretches out across the river in a diagonal course of 30 M., the direction being about N. E. The river is about 20 M. wide, and the steamer soon comes in sight of the Kamouraska Islands (see page 252), on the 1., and then passes between Hare Island (I.) and the Pil- grims. The vessel soon reaches the long pier at Point a BeauUeu, 3 M. from Riviere du Loup. Riviere du Loup {*La Rochelle House; and several large summer boarding-houses) is a prosperous village of 4,500 inhabitants, occvipying a fine position on a hillside near the mouth of the river. There are some pretty villas in the vicinity, and the great church in the centre of the town is a prominent landmarit for miles. About 3 M. up the river are the famous * Riviere-du-Loup Falls, near the new and massive bridge of the Intercolonial Railway. The stream here plunges over a cliff about 80 ft. high, and then rests quietly in a broad pool below. The views of the river and its islands and shipping, from the streets of the village, are broad and beautiful; and many summer visitors pass their vacations here, finding comfortable .accommodations in the boarding-houses. The Temiscouata road runs S. E. from this point into New Brunswick, cross- ing numerous trout-streams and leading through a desolate region of hills. Its first point of interest is the long Temiscouata Lake (see page 68). Riviere du Loup will soon be one of the chief railway-centres of Canada. It has been the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk line for years. The Intercolonial is now 296 Route 72. CACOUNA. well and surely completed from this point to St. John and Halifax, and the New- Brunswick Railway is being pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 49). This domain was granted by the Compagnie des Indes Occidentales to the Sieur de la Chesnoye in 1673. It is said that its name is derived from the fact that in former years great droves of seals (loiips-marin.s) frequented the shoals at the mouth of the river, mailing a remarkable uproar at night. A persistent attempt has been made to call this town Fraservillfi, in honor of the Erasers, who are its seigniors. The numerous Frasers of this Province met at Quebec in 1868 to re-form their ancient Scottish clan organization, and to name Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Eraser, and is the Hon. John Fraser de Berrj', " 58th descendant of Jules de Berry, a rich and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemague and his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century " The solemn Scots maintain that De Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries [/raises, in the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he ordered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the Clan Eraser traces its name and descent. Cacouna is 6 M. from RIvifere du Loup, and is the chief summer resort of Canada. The * St. Lawrence Hall is the most fashionable hotel, and accommodates 600 guests, at $2,50-3 a day. The Mansion House charges $ 1.50 a day, and accommodates 150 guests. There are several summer boarding-houses whose rates are still lower. The traveller who visits Cacouna from Kiviere du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions of the carriage-drivers, who frequently demand exorbitant fares. Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the English ladies with the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. The amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the small hours. The beach is good, and the river-views from the heights are of famed beauty. There is a pretty lalie back among the hills, where many trout are found. The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- ern scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during rainy Aveather, for the American visitors, who then hurry away in crowds. The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. high, Avhich is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name was given by the Indians, in allusion to its forai, and signifies "the tui-- tle." The village is French, and has 700 inhabitants, and Anglican, Meth- odist, and Roman Catholic churches. 4^ M. distant is the populous parish of St. Arsene, and 8 M. S. is St. Modeste. From Riviere du Loup the steamer runs across to the Saguenay River, passing within 3-4 M. of Cacouna, and running between the Brandy Pots (1.) and Red Island (see page 252). The Saguenay River, see Route 73. THE SAGUENAY EIVER. Route 73. 297 73. The Sag^uenay River. Steamers leave Quebec for Chicoutimi, the farthest port on the Saguenay on Tuesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. (see page 291) ; and for Ha Ha Bay on AVednesday Thursday, aud Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfaU, and start on the re- turn from Chicoutimi the next morning. Distances. — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Riviere St. Marguerite 15; St. Louis Islets, 19; Riviere aux Canards, 23; Little Saguenay River 21 ■ St' John's Bay, 32 ; Eternity Bay, 41 ; Trinity Bay, 48 ; Cape Rouge, 56 ; Cape East' 63; Cape West, 65; St. Alphonse, 72 ; St. Fulgeuce, 95 ; Chicoutimi, 100. This itinerary is based on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will be useful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on the river. There is no other table of distances accessible. Imray's Sailing Direc- tio7is (precise authority) says that it is 65 M. from the St. Lawrence to Chicoutimi. The ** Saguenay Eiver is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Lav.-- rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. Along their slopes are the deep I'nes of glacial striations, telling of the passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is sharply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of their forests by a great fire, in ISIO, but there are large numbers of hemlock and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. Louis Isles to Chicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the" West- ern World. " The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous chasm, like that of the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M through the heart of a mountain wilderness No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of graniti" gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; firs of gloom v green are rooted in their crev- ices and fringe their summits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show them?elve.3 in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air which bnng-i out every object with a crvstalline distinctness, even contracts the di- mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of the cliffs, and apparently belittle? the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disappoiutment. Still it exercises a fascination which you cannot resist. You look, and look, fettered by the fresh, novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in St. Peter's or at JNiagara learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur ot the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and its vary- ing breadth — from i M. to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succession of tt^e grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the fra^-nients ot chaos overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their'scanty drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls against the sky, there split into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark-blue crests of loftier mountains in the rear. The water beneath us was black as nio-ht, with a pitchy glaze on its surface ; and the only life in all the savage solitude was now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper coves T'le nver is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 13* 298 Route 73. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. coast The dark mountains, the tremendous precipices, the fir forests, even the settlements at Ha Ha Bay and L'Anse a I'Eau (except that the houses are white in- stead of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinayian skip- pers who come to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, I learn, settle here." (Bayard Taylor.) " From Ha Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, black, gloomy Saguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rise steeply from the water's edge. These hills, though steep, are generally roughly rounded in shape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the scenery differ from that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dotted over with a dark-green sprink- ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is hardly a spot on the Saguenay, which, taken by itself would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and even sublimity ; but after sailing for 70 miles downwards, passing rocky hill after rocky hill, rising one beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of you; .... after vainly longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — j'ou will begin to compare the Saguenay in no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhuman river, fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the whole 70 miles, you will not be likely to see any living thing on it or near it, outside of your own steamer, not a house, nor a field, nor a sign of any sort that living things have ever been there." (White ) " Sunlight and clear sky are out of place over its black waters. Anything which recalls the life and smile of nature is not in unison with the huge naked cliffs, raw, cold, and silent as the tombs. An Italian spring could effect no change in the deadly, rugged aspect ; nor does winter add one iota to its mournful desolation. It is with a sense of relief that the tourist emerges from its sullen gloom, and looks back upon it as a kind of vault, — Nature's sarcophagus, where life or sound seems never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest ravines look cosey and smiling. It is wild without the least variety, and grand apparently in spite of itself ; while so utter is the solitude, so dreary and monoto- nous the frown of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they must have been purling brooks compared with this.savage river; and a picnic on the banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." {London Times.) On Sept. 1, 1535, Tadousac was visited by the wonder-loving Cartier, with three vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in ascending the Saguenay, you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who live in cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." The river was visited by Roberval in 1543, and part of the expedition was lost. Thenceforward the country of the Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In 1603 Tadou- sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel the natives crowded in their canoes in order to sell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is seen 5 M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the Montaignais. They were received with dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors, where several grave and eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. The Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, 2 of which dwelt along the river, and the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hudson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- cation of the original Indian word Saggishsekuss , which means "a river whose banks are precipitous." In 1671 the heroic and self-abnegating Jesuit, Pere de Crepieul, founded the mis- sion at Tadousac, where he remained for 26 jears, passing the winters in the wretched huts of the savages. Before this tune (in 1661) the Fathers DruiUettes and TADOUSAC. Route 7S. 299 Dablon had ascended the river to Lake St. John and there had baptized many In- dians, and founded the mission of St. Franpois Xavier. The Montaiguais are still in the Catholic faith, and each family has its prayer-book and breviary, in -which they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel ascended the Saguenay from Tadou- sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and passed N. to Hudson's Bay by way of the great lakes of St. John and Mistassini. The country about the Upper Saguenay was then well known to the zealous churchmen, but after the decline of the missions it ■was forgotten. About 50 years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by efficient officers, and this remote region is now being occupied by French-Canadian hamlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, which is shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. * Tadousac is a small village, prettily situated on a seqjicircular terrace surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. Avide, and the mountains of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white villages of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Tadousac Hotel ($2.50 a day) is a spacious establishment on the bluff over the beach. It was founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company are tiear the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated ■ 4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, which was erected in 1746 on the site of a still more ancient church. The summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The Earl of Diifferin, late Governor-General of Canada, erected a handsome house here. The scener}' of the landAvard environs is described in the Indian word Tadousac^ which means knobs or mamelons. " Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the edge of a pretty plateau, on the summit of an escarped height So perched, these ediiices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand Nvhich sweeps around at their feet. On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay ; in front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious place " (Tache.) 4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of Moulin d Baude, where are large beds of white marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 1700), and was so en- thusiastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- ble." Pointe Rouge, t)ie S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- ten.sely hard red granite The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- grounds of Mille Vaches, the trout-stream of the Laval River, and the Hudson's Bay post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrav^ and Chauvin,to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, aild left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these died and the rest fled into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1632 his brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Cape Cor- morant. Three years later the place v>-as captured by the Iroquois, and the gai-rison was massacred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal treasure to Quebec, were chased in here by Sir William Phipps"s New-England fleet. They formed bat- teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels 300 Route 73. CHICOUTIMI. np through the swift currents, and the French fleet was saved. The trading-post and mission were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and gays : " The greatest Part of our Geographers have here placed a Town, but where there never was but one French house, and some huts of Savages who came there in the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Huts or Booths, when they went away; and this was the whole matter. It is true that this Port has been a long Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the French resorted thither as .soon as the Navigation was free both from France and Canada ; the Missionaries also made Use of the Opportunity, and came to trade here for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, the Savages took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- lowed the last, to compleat their Instructions." The .steamer leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends tlie river by night, when, if the sky is unclouded, there are beautiful effects of star- light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navigation, and follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Bay, for the sake of continuity. Chicoutimi (good hotel) is the capital of Chicontimi County, and has 1.9.3.5 inhabitants. It is situated at the head of navigation on the Sagiienay, and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandinavian vessels. The trade amounts to .f 500,000 a year, and is under the control of Senator Price of Quebec, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, and is known as 'the King of the Sagnenay." The powerful house of Price Brothers & Co. owns most of the Saguenay country, and has estab- lishments on the Lower St. Lawrence and in England. Their proporty in mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- pier is the new college, built of stone, about an open quadrangle. Near by are the cathedral and the convent of the Good Shepherd. Beyond the town the court-house is seen, on the dark slope of a high hill; and the white ril>bon of the * Chicoutimi Falls is visible to the 1. The Chicoutimi River here falls 40 - ,50 ft., iust before entering the Saguenay. This stream affords fine sport for the fisherman, and contains great numbers of fish re- sembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. Chicoutimi signifies " deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians who here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine fishing about the falls and the juljacent rapids (permission must be obtainoil, and is often granted in courtesy to strangers). The ancient .Jesuit chapel and the Hudson's Bay (Company's post were situated near the confluence of the two rivers, and within the chapel (which remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cecquart, the last of the Jesuit missionaries. A strong mission was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, and many Indians were converted. St. Anne du Saguenay is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of Chicoutimi, and is readied by a good road, which passes through Jon- qui^re, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inhabitants). The Rapids of Terres Rompues, on the Saguenay River, are 9 M. above Chicoutimi. LAKE ST. JOHN. Route 73, 301 " These rapids extend 3 M. ; then there are 3 M. of smooth water; then a second rapid of terrific strength; then 10 M. of still water; then 2 M. of rapids; then % ]\I. of still water. Finally, there succeed the mighty rush and uproar of the Grand Decharge, mingling with the foam and tumult of the Petit Decharge. These empty the waters of the Grand St. John Lake, and sweeping around a rugged island with terrific and unnatural force, unite, and rage, contend, and finally melt and settle down into the quiet mood of the still water below." In this part of the river is found tlie winninish, or Northern charr, a game-fish whose pink meat is con- sidered a greater delicacy than brook-trout or salmon. L,ake St. Jolm was discovered in 1647 by Father Duquen, the missionary at Tadousac, who was the first European to ascend the Sagueuay to its source. It was then called by the Indians Picouagami, or Flat Lake. Several Jesuit mis- sionaries soon passed by this route to the great Nekouba, where all the northern tribes were wont to meet in annual fairs ; and in 1672 Father Albanel advanced from Tadousac, by Lake St. John and Lake Mistassini, to the ]\ler da Nord, or Hud- son's Bay. A Catholic missiou was founded on the lake, at Metabetchuan, and posts of the Hudson's Bay Company were also established here. The lake is of great area, and receives the waters of 8 large rivers, the chief of which is the Mis- tassini, flowing down 250 ]\I. fi'om Lake. Mistassini, which is 75 X 30 M. in area. The water is shallow, and is agitated into furious white waves by the N. W. winds. To the N. and W . is a vast region of low volcanic mountains and dreary lands of low spruce forests. The soil along the lake-shores is said to be a fertile allu- vium, capable of nourishing a dense population ; but the winters are long and ter- rible. 20 years ago there were no settlements here except the Hudson's Ba}' posts ; now there are numerous villages, the chief of which are Roberval, Riviere a I'Ours, and St. Jerome. Mr. Price, M. P., states that a missionary has recently discovered, high upon the Saguenay (or on the Jlistassini), an ancient French fort, with intrenchments and stockades. On the inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating from the eai'ly part of the 16th century. It is surmised that these remote memorials mark the last resting-place of the Sieur Robervnl, Governor-General of Canada, who (it is supposed) sailed up the Saguenay in 1543, and was never heard from after- wards. The Robervals were favorites of King Francis I., who called one of them " the Petty King of Ticmen," and the other, " the Gendarme of Hannibal." They were both lost on their last expedition to America. In descending the Saguenay from Chicoutimi to Ha Ha Bay, the scenery is of remarkable boldness, but is less startling than the lower reaches of the river. Soon after leaving the village the steamer passes the pretty villa and the Anglican chui'ch pertaining to Senator Price. Below this point is a line of hills of marly clay; and Cape St. Fran9ois soon rears its dark crest on the 1. bank. The river widens rapidly, and the hamlet of St. Fulgence is seen on the 1., near Pointe Roches. Beyond the ponderous walls of High Point is another broad reach, with small islets under the 1. bank. The steamer now runs between the fi'owning promontories of Cape East and Cape West, and passes the entrance to Ha Ha Bay. * Ha Ha Bay runs 7 M. S. W. from the Saguenaj^, and is ascended be- tween lofty and serrated ridges, bristling with sturdy and stunted trees. So broad and stately is this inlet that it is said that the early French explorers ascended it in the belief that it was the main river, and the name originated from their exclamations on reaching the end, either of 302 Route73. HA HA BAY. amusement at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced cliffs of Cape West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a wide haven whose shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall blue heights. The entrance is 4 M. long, 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms deep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difficulty. It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean Latin nation" Avhich is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. John country. Large quantities of lumber are loaded here upon British and Scandinavian ships, and a flourishing trade is carried on in the autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberi'ies to Quebec, — the latter being packed in coffin-shaped boxes and sold for 30-40 cents a bushel. The steamer touches at St. Aljplionse (Bagotville), a small French village, with a church and a comfortable hotel. Calashes run from the pier to St. Alexis (Grande Bale), 3 M. off, around the bay, crossing the Riviere a Mars, famous for its salmon-tisheries (rights may easily be bought or leased). 3 M. from the baj', near the falls of Mars River, are the three Gravel Lakes, famous for immense and delicious red trout. The mail-road is prolonged from St. Alexis, through the uninhabited wilderness of the Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. Paul's Bay (see page 292). " The long line of sullen hills had fallen away, and the morning sun shone ■warm pn -what in a friendlier climate would haye been a very loTely landscape. The bay was an irregular oval, with shores that rose in bold but not lofty heights on one side, while on the other lay a narrow plain with two ■villages clinging about the road that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and along its waters were masses of rocks, gayly painted with lichens and stained with metallic tints of orange and scarlet." iHowells.) 21 M. from Ha Ha Bay is Lac a la Belle Truite, and beyond is the Great Ha Ha Lake, among the mountains, with bold capes en- circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truite is the Little Ha Ha Lake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high The blue peaks of the St. Margaret Mts. are about 30 M. from Ha Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. John to Hudson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutimi (12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Cape East is seen on the 1., throwing its serrated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting off the retrospective view. Bugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both sides. " The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a ci^rve, and it hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise from the water's edge; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but to open drearier solitudes to the eye." Just before reaching Cape Rouge (1. bank) the ravine of Descente des Femmes opens to the N., deriving its singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians were starving, in the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to the river through this wild gorge and secured assistance. ETERNITY BAY. RmtelS. 303 On the r. bank is * Ze Tableau, a cliff 900 ft. high, whose riverward face contains a broad sheet of dark limestone, 600 X 300 ft. in area, so smooth and straight as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. Still farther down (r. bank) is " * Statue Point, Avhere, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this black aperture, a gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue cam.e crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic cliffs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, and the cliffs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 5-600 ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- ing a v/histle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, for the N. cape was named La Trinite by the Jesuits on account of its union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name among the eld pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the correct names in the ensuing quotations.) ''The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, — Cape Trmity and Cape Eternity, — enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet high rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- tie bay of the river between their gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly be surpassed bv anv river- scene in the world." (White.) * "Suddenly the boat rounded the comer of the three steps, each 500 ft. high in which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the awful chff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretchino' upward with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams from space to space, till, 1,-500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward and frowns with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern ; no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of tape Tnmty the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to crest It is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems one rank above another, till the summit IS crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful; 304 Routers, ETERNITY BAY. so that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and as- suaged by the serene grandeur of this." (Howells's A Chance Acqiiaintance.) " These awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and soaring into the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged valley, stretcliing inland, and covered •with the dark primeval forest of the North. I doubt whether a sublimer picture of the wilderness is to be found on this continent The wall of dun-colored syenitic granite, rihbed with vertical streaks of black, hung for a moment directly over our heads, as high as three Trinity spires atop of one another. Westward, the ■wall ran inland, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark forests in the bed of the valley." (Bayard Taylor.) " The wild scenery of the river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- tween Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than these two dreadful headlands nothing can be imagined more grand and impressive. For one brief moment the rugged charac- ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley between the capes, the land has an aspect of life and mild luxuriance which, though not rich, at leav-t seems so in comparison witii the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Eternity on this side towards the landward opening is pretty thickly clothed with tir and birch mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the rocks show out among them, with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity well becomes its name, and is the reverse of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it betrays in allowing anything like life or verdui'eto shield its wild, uncouth deformity of strength. Cape Trinity certainly' shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from its deep savage grandeur. It is one tremendous clilf of limestone, more than 1,500 feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it, and seeming as if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream which flows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows, a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful weird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained and discolored by little waterf ills in blotchy and decaying spots. Uulike Niagara, and all other of God's great woi-ks in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- tude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this." {Lo7n1o7i Times.') AVhen the Flijins: Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, one of her heavy C8-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. •' For the space of half aminute or so after the dischai-ge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon ci'ash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- mendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." St. John's Bay (i*. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow enough to afford an anchoi-age for shipping. It is 2 ]\I. wide and 3 IM. long, and receives the St. John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in a narrow valle^y which appears beautiful in contrast Avith the surrounding cliffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 ]\I. below, and flows down out of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian hunti'-^g-grounds and pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth of the Riviere aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered Avith firs, spruces, and birch-trees. There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitudes of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the massive promontories of Cape Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one of the grandest views on the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- QUEBEC TO MONTEEAL. Route 74. 305 vales of the St. Marguerite River, the chief tributary of the Saguenay, de- scending from a lake far N. of Chicoutimi, and famous for its salmon-fisher- ies (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked with rapids, but is navigable for 20 M. by canoes; and flows from a valuable region of hard- wood trees. There are huts along the strand at 'its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- chor here; while far inland are bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-dikes, of a color approaching black; opposite which is the mouth of the St. Athanase. Beyond Point Crepe (r. bank) is the deep cove of St. Etienne Bay, afford- ing an anchorage, and bordered with narrow strips of alluvial land. The steamer now sweeps rapidly down, between immense cliffs, and with but narrow reaches of the river visible ahead and astern. Beyond the Passe Pierre Isles {r. bank) it approaches a castellated crag on the r., opposite which is the frowning promontory called * Points la Boule, a vast granite mountain which narrows the channel to very close confines. From Pointe la Boule to Tadousac, the river flows between escarped cliffs of feldspathic granite, with an appearance resembling stratification dipping to the S. E. Their lofty rounded summits are nearly barren, or at most support a thin fringe of low trees; and the sheer descent of the sides is prolonged to a great depth beneath the water. The vessel calls at L'Anse a VEau, the little cove near Tadousac (see page 299); and soon afterwards steams out into the broad St. Lawrence, in the darkness of evening. The next morning, the traveller awakes at or near Quebec. 74. Quebec to Montreal. — The St. Lawrence River. The river-route is by the steamboats of the Richelieu Company, leaving Quebec at evening. It is 69 M. from Quebec to Batiscan, 90 M. to Three Rivers, 135 M. to Sorel, and 180 M. to Montreal. The shortest route by rail between the two cities is the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and Occidental Railway, along the North Shore. Stations. — Quebec to Lake St. John Junction, 4 M. ; Lorette, 8 ; Passe Para- dis, 14; Ste. Jeanne de Neuville, 26; St. Bazile, 36 ; Portneuf, 35; Deschambault, 39 ; Lachevrotiere, 42 ; Grondines, 45 ; St. Anne de la Perade, 53 ; Batiscan, 58 ; Champlain, 65; Piles Branch Junction, 75; Three Rivers R., 78 ; Pointe du Lac, 83; Yamachiche, 93; Louise Ville, 98; Masldnonge, 102; St. Barthelemi, 108; St. Outhbert, 111 ; Berthier, 116 ; Lanoraie Junction, 124 ; La Valtrie Road, 129 ; L'Assomption, 133; L'Epiphanie, 137; St. Henri de Mascouche, 145; Terrebonne, 149 ; St. Vincent de Paul, 155 ; Montreal, 170. The Grand Trunk Railway runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. Stations- — Quebec (Point Levi) ; Hadlow, 2 M. ; Ohaudiere Curve, 8 ; Craig's Road, 15 ; Black River, 20 ; Methot-s Mills, 28 ; Lyster, 37 ; Becancour, 41 ; Somerset, 49 ; Stanfold, 55 ; Arthabaska, 64 ; Warwick, 71 ; Danville, 84 ; Richmond, 96 ; New Durham, 106 ; Acton, 118 ; Upton, 124 ; Britannia Mills, 130 ; St. Hyacinthe, 137 ; Soixante, 144 ; St. Hilaire, 150 ; St. Bruno, 157 ; St. Hubert, 162 ; St. Lambert, 167 ; Montreal, 172. " It could really be called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebec, which is a distance of more than 180 M. ; for the farm-houses are never more than five arpents apart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted." (Kalm, the Swedish traveller , in 1749.) In 1684 La Hontan said that the houses along these shores were never more than a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are simple-minded and 306 Route 7 4. ST. AUGUSTIN. primitive in their ways, tenaciously retaining the Catholic faith and the French language and customs. Emery de Caen, Champlain's contemporary, told the Hugue- not sailors that " Monseigneur, the Duke de Ventadour (Viceroy), did not wish that they should sing psalms in the Great River." When the first steamboat ascended this river, an old Canadian voyageur exclaimed, in astonishment and doubt, " Mais croyez-vous que le bon Dieu permettra tout cela ! " As the steamboat swings out into the stream a fine series of views are afforded, including Quebec and the Basin, the bold bluffs of Point Levi, and the dark walls of the Citadel, almost overhead. As the river is as- cended, the villas of Sillery and Cap Rouge are seen on the r., and on the 1. are the wharves and villages of South Quebec and New Liverpool, be- yond which are the mouths of the Etchemin and Chaudiere Rivers. St. Augustin is on the N. shore, 15 M. above Quebec, and has a Calvaire, to which many pilgrimages are made, and a statue of the Guardian Angel, erected on a base of cut stone in front of the church, and commemorating the Vatican Council of 1870. Near the village is a ruined church dating from 1720, at whose construction the Devil is said to have assisted, in the form of a powerful black stallion who hauled in the blocks of stone, until his driver unbridled him at a watering-place, when he vanished in a cloud of sulphur-smoke. In front of St. Augustine the French frigate Atalayite surrendered to the British fleet in 1760, after a heroic but hopeless battle ; and in the same waters the steamer Montreal was burned in 1857, and 200 passen- gers lost their lives. Pointe aux Trembles is 3 ^L above St. Augustin (N. shore, and is a ship- building village of 700 inhabitants. Here many of the ladies of Quebec took refuge during Wolfe's siege (1759), and were captured by his Gren- adiers. Here also the American armies of Arnold and Montgomery united their forces (Dec. 1, 1775) before the disastrous assault on Quebec. Pass- ing the hamlet of St. Antoine de Till}^ on the S. shore, the village of Les Ecureuils is seen on the N., 7 M. above Pointe aux Ti-embles. This is near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier River, famous for its remarkable scenery and for its fine trout-fishing (on the upper waters). On the heights near the mouth of the river was Fort Jacques Cartier, to which 10,000 French troops retreated after the defeat of Montcalm. Nearly a year later (June, 1760) the fort was held by the Marquis d'Albergotti, and was bom- barded and taken by Eraser's Highlanders. 6 M. above Les Ecureuils is St. Croix (S. shore), a village of 750 in- habitants, with" a black nunnery and the public buildings of Lotbiniere County. 3 M. beyond (N. shore) is Portneuf. a prosperous little town with paper-mills and a large country trade. This seigniory was granted to M. Le Neuf by the Cent Associ^s in 1647, and was completely deso- lated by the famishing French cavalry in 1759. Beyond this point the scenery becomes less picturesque, and the bold ridges of the Laurentian Mts. sink down into level lowlands. Descliamhault (N. shore) has 500 in- habitants, with a trade in lumber and flour. Lotbiniere (S. shore) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, with a Convent of the Bon Pasteur and two stove-foundries. Grondines (N. shore) is 8 M. beyond Deschambault, and THREE EIVERS. Route74. 307 has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschaillons (S. shore) is noted for its brickyards. St. Anne de la Perade (N. shore) has a great church, and is situated at the mouth of the St. Anne River, Avhich is here crossed by a bridge 1,500 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is the busy little port of Batiscan (N. shore), with its two lighthouses; Gentilly (S. shore) has 600 inhabitants and the Convent of the Assumption; and Chaviplain (N. shore) has 400 inhabitants. Three Rivers (British American Hotel) is a city of 9,000 inhabitants, midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on the St. Lawrence River. It was founded in 1618, under the name of Trois Rivieres, and played an important part in the early history of Canada. The chief buildings are the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Episcopal and Wes- leyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- weekly and weekly newsp^apers (2 of which are French). Besides the daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 5 steamboats plying from this port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and by the North-Shore Railway, and has built a new line up the St. Mau- rice Valley to Grand Piles. There are large iron-works and machine- shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes down the St. Maurice River. Tiie Canadian government has expended $200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over $1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. The St. Maurice Kiver waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness have been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivers, where the lumber is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Skaivanegan,, where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft. between the lofty rocks called La Grand'' Mere and Le Bonhomme. A few miles above are the Falls of the Grand'' Mire. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyageurs or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the larger varieties of game. The head-waters of the St. Maurice are interlocked with those of the Saguenay. Across the St Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine ; and on the S. shore are Becancour, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angel de Laval (Doucett's Landing) , the terminus of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway. The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- tificial), which is marked out by buoys and,poles, and is used by large vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come to pieces. The inlets along the low shores afford good duck-shooting; and enoi'mous quantities of eels and pike are taken from the waters. Near the 308 Route 74. SOREL. , E. end of the lake, at the mouth of the Nicolet River, is the populous town of Nicolet, famous for its flour and lumber trade and for its noble college, with its 250 students and a library of 10,000 volumes. The build- ings are surrounded by attractive parks and gardens. On the N. shore is Riviere du Loup en haut, near which are the celebrated St. Leon Springs (reached by daily stage from Three Rivers, in 24 M. ; fare, $1.50; Gil- man's Hotel, and others). St. Frangoisdu Lac is a pretty village on the S. W. shore, at the mouth of the great St. Francis River. On leaving Lake St. Peter, the steamer threads her way through an archipelago of low islands, and soon reaches Sorel (four hotels), a city of 7,500 inhabitants, with 3 weekly papers (2 French), a Catholic college, several shipyards and foundries, and a large country trade. It is at the mouth of the gi-eat River Richelieu, the outlet of Lake George and Lake Champlain, whose head-waters ai-e interlocked with those of the Hudson. Navigation is kept up between this point and the Lake-Champlain ports by the Chambly Canal. The town is regularly laid out, and its broad streets are adorned with trees. In the centre is the Royal Square, whose fine old elms are much admired. Sorel is the terminus of the northern division of the Southeastern Railway. Fort Richelieu was built on this site in 1641 , and was re-constructed and enlarged by Capt. Sorel, of the Carignan Regiment, under orders from Gov. de Tracy (1665). In November, 1775, it was occupied by Col. Easton, with a strong force of Continen- tal troops and a flotilla, and this detachment captured 11 sail of vessels, containing Gen. Prescott and the British garrison of Montreal. Sorel was for many years the summer residence of the Canadian governors, and on being visited by Prince Wil- liam Henry of England (afterward King William IV.) an abortive attempt was made to change its name to William Henry, Berihier en haut is 6 M. above Sorel, on the N. shore (semi-daily steam- ers), and is an important manufacturing town of 1,700 inhabitants, situated amid rich farming lands. It was the birthplace of M. Faribault, long time a N. W. Commissioner, and founder of Faribault, Minnesota. Back of Berthier are the populous towns of St. Cuthbert, St. Norbet, St. Felix de Valois, and St. Elizabeth. Lanoraie is 9 M. above Berthier (N. Shore), and is the terminus of the St. Lawrence & Industry Railway'-, which runs N. W. 12 M. to St. Thomas and Joliette, and thence into Montcalm County. 15 M. above Sorel (S. shore) is Contrecceur, noted for its maple- sugar; and Lavaltrie is 15 M. above Berthier (N. shore), and has 2 lighthouses. 6 M. above is St. Sulpice (N. shore), beyond which is L'As- somption (Hotel Richard), a prosperous village of 2,600 inhabitants. Above the N. shore village of Repentigny the N. branch of the Ottawa River (Riviere des Prairies) flows into the St. Lawrence, having diverged from the Ottawa at the Lake of the Two Mountains. Varennes is a pretty village on the S. shore, opposite Isle St. Therese, and connected by a ferry with Bout de I'lsle, and with Montreal (15 M. dis- tant) by a daily steamer. It has 825 inhabitants, and manufactures many MONTREAL. t JifiJl tincl Jlon -fe- V rtJfotcs^ ; — "i i-Ttn'f. ,, • ^ J^ tary SchooZ JS.4 V.5. .D.4. E.I. 8rt!«? Palace »- ^e J)nme . E-5. rVf €%»/?«* CftlhifSram. %. ic (JesuiiS).. I>Si- ra-frichs (CcfiTt;. P.4 ertcoji.^ "B «& 'liiy.-.-. ^.4. ■^Tkene Jt^Bantfticourg Jr. O- 'amcy(Citfh) . _ .— -T. 3. vsCoUe»e.- _T>.3- 2iMi.(nn „r_ _ .. C.Z. 7S>.MdUonV^^ !■' H 4'. ?iaJ(olA ^iecc E.X ^y^dtirijrl^infi. B.3 ■ aaPZcceJ^if/Vnerr: B 5 dSCfiamp dvJfioi: JF.4- dlM.James: . . 0.5. ^Siich&Li-sM^ Hotel .r*&. ^d^tdt'on , X).^ DDDDDDDGDDnDDC CRYSTAL PALACf MOM/VT fOl c B a 3IC ogoDy ~r n [a c^ [JDflM Dl LiJ nn s LtU IDl ill T^ss)^ u 02 MONTREAL. Q JDOSDmDDDDDa[]LJDDDDi: -T^r^-n°nnn:innnnnnnnr nnnnr ]a ]ga' ^C3^^ N^; .^-^ Vjf^4. ^r' V - E s:. ^.aiy Jiall nncT Son -tt. Cturs MarJtet. P-5. 2Jloel Office J. A. 3. CoutirJfott-ft. . - ^ _ .. . T.-4. b.J'apiTt eatc MaeJcfet-^ - it A 6 ;». Amt'e „ D.5. ISt.JPairicT^ Halt J).4 «.AC?f?orK SehooT f .4, 9. (Iryffar Palttcc E .1 . — CJiurcrheit. — lO.CaUolic Cafhetitxtl 0.4. njfotre Dame - .. KS. Vi.G'csi'c (Jesu'iH). J>A. i^ Jfl,Ptifricks (CatTi;. B.4 15.A«ur4 P. U- \6.jSlJamey(Cjitih) jF.3. WSf. 5W? fi^:s-f. C.4. ZlJlrchiisfupr !fkltnx C.4. ZZJBlaekjifimnery. _E,5. ZS.0>o.y --^ .^^ A4i. 24iSiiaf. - XHyA- ?i0.f/vitri 'DxeiJ - E-l SX^diutfTJ^Cnk. .B.3- 32.{7Wo:£i'vo pushoii back the listed door of thiv-s church, and found ourselves iu- stantlj' in an atmosphere which miglit be saciwi to tlionp;ht anil reliixion, if one had any It was a great cave in the midst of a city ; and what were the altars and the tinsel but the sparkling; stalaetics, into which yon entered in a moment, and wheiv the still atmo-^pheiv and the sombre lisxht disjiosed to serious and protitablo thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand of our churches which are opou onl.v Sundays," (Tuoreau.) Fronting on the Place d' Amies are the elegant Ontario Bank and the hall of the Grand Lodge of the ^lasons of Canada. A short distance to the E., on Notro Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (tbunded in 1657). Farther on, the * Court House is seen on the 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic architecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covering "28.800 square yards, and ample enough for the display of ;),000 troops. The groat structure fronting across Craig St. was built for the Dominion Military School, wliich is now estab- lished at Kingston. The costly and splendid new City Hall is on the E. sidf> of the Champ de ^[ars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques Cartior Square opens oft' Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapi- dated nuuiumont to Nelson (erected in 18(18), and two Russian guns from Sebastoj^ol. Near the head of this square, in the ancient French Govern- ment building, is the nunlical school of Laval Univei-sity. The building dates from 1704, and was the headqtuu-ters of the American 'generals in 1775 -76, and of the British governors until Montreal was iloca|ntali.'.od. By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the *Bonsecours Mar- ket may be visited. This market is unrivalled in Anuuica, and is built of stone, in quasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of 3 300,01)0. It is three Stories high, has a lofty dome, and presents an imposing front to the river. MONTREAL. Route 75. 313 The curious French costumes and language of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built in 165S. A short distance beyond is the Quebec railway station, on the site of the extensive Quebec-Gate Barracks ; and the Victoria Pier makes out into the stream towards St. Heltn's Isle, formerly a fortified depot of ammunition and war mata-iel, which was named by Champlain in honor of his wife. The Isle is now a lovely marine park, Avith forts and barracks still standing, and is reached by a ferry-steamer from Bonsecours Market. To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Yiger Garden, with a small con- servatory and several fountains, fronting on which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone, in early English Gothic architecture, and accommodating 4.000 persons. N. of Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. i\Iary St., are Mol- son's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson's bi-ewery and the Papineau Market and Square (on which ai-e the works of the Canadian Rubber Co.). The suburb of Hochelaga (see page 318) is about 1 JM. beyond the Papineau Square. McGill St. is an important thoronghfiire leading S. from Victoria Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's ]\Iarket, on the site of the old Parliament House. In lS-i9 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, Avho also drove the Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- count of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same year. Com- missioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant Custom- House to the broad promenades on the rivei'-walls. Ottawa St. leads W. to the heav}'- masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the Victoria Bridge. Radegonde St. and Beaver-Hall Hill run N.from Victoria Square, passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1S53. The ai-med congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the ti-oops restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is the Baptist Church, overlooked by the taU Church of the Messiah (Unitari- an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the r., Lagaucheti^re St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic build- ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 pi-ofessors) and the * Church of the Gestl. The nave of the church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich U 314 Rcmte75. MONTREAL. composite columns ; and the transepts are 144 ft. long, and are adorned with fine frescos in chiaroscuro. Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless Lamb, above which is tiie Nativity. Against the columns at the crossing of the nave and transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. Luke with a child, and St. John with an eagle. On the ceiling of the nave are frescos of St. Thomas Kepeutant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child amid Angelic Choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of eight saints of the Order of Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco of the Trinity, near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first communion from St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. is a fresco of St. Ignatius Loyola in the Grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ's Appearance to him near Rome, while above is Christ blessing Little Children. Over St. Joseph's Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father ; on the r. of which is another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka receiving Communion from Angels. On the 1. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki (Japan) ; on the r. is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland; and above is the Raising of Lazarus. On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. Turning now to the W. on St. Catherine St., one soon reaches * Christ Churcli Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic architecture in America. It is built of Montreal and Caen stone, and is 212 ft. long, and 100 ft. wide at the transepts. A stately stone spire springs from the intersection of the nave and transepts, and attains a height of 224 ft. The choir is 46 ft. long, is paved with encaustic tiles, and contains a fine •stained-glass window. On either side are elaborately carved stalls for the clergy; and the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by columns of Caen stone Avhose capitals are carved to represent Canadian plants. In front of the cathedral is a monument to Bishop Fulford, and on the N. is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, where the diocesan library is kept. The residence of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) is near this building. One square E. of the cathedral (corner of Cathcart and University Sts.) is the large and interesting Natural-History Jfuseum^ which is open to the public (fee, 25 c). The Ferrier Collection of Egyptian Antiquities and the cases of Canadian birds are of much interest. Farther out, back of the Hotel Dieu, is the Crystal Palace. McGill University (500 students) is at the foot of Mount Roj^al, in beau- tiful grounds. It was endowed in 1813 and opened in 1821, and has fac- ulties of Arts (9 professors), Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 profes- sors). The Medical School is N. of the main building, and the Museum is worthy of a visit. The University is under the charge of Dr. J. W. Dawson (see page 138), and is the most flourishing institution of the kmd in Canada. Affiliated with it are the contiguous Presbyterian and Wes- leyan theological colleges, and the Congregational and Anglican Diocesan colleges. The reservoir for the water-supply of Montreal is back of the University, 200 ft. above the river, and has a capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. The water is taken from the St. Lawrence, 1^ M. above the Lachine Rapids. A pleasant view of the city may be obtained from this terrace, and on the W. is Ravenscrag, the mansion of the late Sir Hugh Allan. MONTREAL. Route 75. 315 The * Great Seminary of St. Sulpice and the Montreal College are | M. S. W. of the University, and front on the same street (Sherbrooke). They occupy a portion of the broad ecclesiastical domain which is known as the Priests' Farm. The incongruous towers in front of the main build- ing pertained to the ancient college of the 17th century, and were at that time loopholed and held as a part of the defences of the town against the Iroquois Indians. The Seminary is for the education of Koman Catholic priests, and has 4 professors and 112 students. The Montreal College is for the education of Canadian youth, and has 10 ecclesiastics for profes- sors and 280 students. It was founded in 1773 by the Sulpicians, who still remain in charge. The Seminary chapel is worthy of a visit, and the gar- dens about the buildings ai-e said to be the finest in Canada. Sherbrooke St. and the environs of Mount Royal contain many elegant residences. Dorchester St. runs S. W. from Beaver-Hall Square, soon crossing Uni- versity St., on whose r. corners are the High School and the St. James Club. This street leads, on the 1., to the Normal and Model Schools; and on the r. to the Natural-History ]\Iuseum and the Cathedral. Dorchester St. passes on by St. Paul's Church (1. side) and the Knox Church (r. side) to Dominion Square, which occupies the site of a cemetery. In this vicinity are several fine churches, — the Wesleyan Methodist, a graceful building in the English Gothic style; the American Presbyterian, an ex- act copy of the Pai-k Church in Brookh'-n, N. Y. ; and St. George's Church (Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, and fine school-buildings attached. The new Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter is being erected at the cor- ner of Dorchester and Cemetery Sts. It is 300 ft. long and 225 ft. wide at the tran- septs ; and is to be surmounted by a stone dome 250 ft. high, supported on 4 piers (each of which are 33 ft. thick) and 32 Corinthian columns. 4 minor domes are to surround this noble piece of architecture. The portico is to resemble that of the Roman St. Peter's, surmounted also by colossal statues of the Apostles ; and gives entrance to the vestibule, which is 200 ft long and 30 ft. wide. The interior colon- nades support lines of round arches ; and there are 20 minor chapels. The exterior walls are very massive, but extremely plain and rough. This building is to supply the place of the Cathedral on St. Denis St., which was burned in 1852. The design was conceived by Bishop Bourget, who secured the land, and after inspecting numer- ous plans in different styles, determined to erect a cathedral like St. Peter's (though smaller). The architects went to Rome and studied the Vatican Basilica carefully, and the work was soon begun. At present strenuous exertions are being made by the clergy, monks, and nuns to procure the needful funds to finish the building. The Bishop's Palace is on the E. of Dominion Square; and Cemetery St. runs thence to St. Joseph's Church and the Bonaventure station of the Grand Trunk Railway. Bej^ond this point is the populous St. Ann's Ward., toward the great basins of the Lachine Canal. The * Gray Nunnery is nearly | M. S. W. of Dominion Square, near Dorchester St., and occupies aa immense pile of stone buildings. This convent (L'Hdpital General des Soeurs Grises) was founded in 1747, and 316 Route 75. MONTREAL. contains 202 nuns, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 patients. It takes care of aged and infirm men and women, orphans and foundlings, and has large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- lings are received every year, of whom more than seven eigliths die, and the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the age of 12 years. Opposite the nunnery is Mont Ste. Marie, a large building which was erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies' boarding-school (169 students) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who have, in the city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1659. The Nazareth Asylum for the Blind is N. of the Gesu, on St. Cath- erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel is built in a light and delicate form of Eomanesque architecture, and is richly decorated and frescoed. On the same square are the handsome stone buildings of the Catholic Commercial Academy. To the E. (on Dorchester St.) is the General Hospital, with 150 beds; the Hospice of St. Vincent de Paul (30 brethren) and the Asile de la Providence (122 nuns) are near Labelle St. ; and numerous other convents and asylums are found throughout this singular city, which is both British and Fi'ench, commer- cial and monastic, progressive and mediaeval, — combining American en- terprise with English solidity and French ecclesiasticism. The * Hotel Dieu de Ville Marie is about 1 M. N. W. of Great St. James St., and is one of the largest buildings in Canada. The cliapel is a spa- cious hall over which is a dome 150 ft. high, frescoed with scenes from the life of the Holy Family. This institution was founded in 1859, and is con- ducted by about 80 cloistered nuns of the Order of St. Joseph. There are generally about 500 persons in the building, consisting of the nuns and their charges, old and infirm men and women, orphans, and about 200 sick people. To the N. is the populous French suburb of St. Jean Baptiste (5,000 inhabitants), which is connected with the city by horse-cars on St. Lawrence Main St. * Mount Royal Park, along wooded ridge 750 ft. high, covers 430 acres, and was bought by the city in 1874, and laid out by F. L. Olmstead. Stages run through it everj' half-hour, starting from the Montreal Post- Office, and passing the Windsor (ticket up and back, 25 c.; restaurant on summit). A superb view is afforded, including the city and scores of vil- lages, the distant Adirondacks and Green Mts., Rougemont and Beloeil, and the St. Lawrence and Ottawa and their lakes. Point St. Charles is beyond the Lachine-Canal Basins, and is traversed by the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway. Near the Victoria Bridge is a great bowlder, surrounded by a railing, commemorating the place where were buried 6,500 Irish immigrants, who died here of ship-fever in the summer of 1847. The * Victoria Bridge is the longest and most costly bridge in Canada, It consists of 23 spans of 242 ft. each (the central one MONTREAL. Route 75. 317 330 ft.), resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron- riveted, with sharp wedge -faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- ing the track are 19 X 16 ft. and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over 1^ M. from shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1854, and finished in 1859; it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost f 6,300,000. There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. In the early autumn of 1535 Jaques Cartier heard, from the Indians of Quebec, of a greater town far up the river. The fearless Breton chief took 2 boats and 50 men, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the Iroquois town of Hochelaga, occupying the present site of the metropolis of Canada. "Before them , wrapped in forests painted by the early frosts, rose the ridgy back of the Mountain of Montreal, and below, encompassed with its cornfields, lay the Indian town,"' surrounded with triple palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a god had come down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence while he read aloud the Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a word) ; then presents were given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. The Indians then guided their guests to the summit of the adjacent mountain, whence scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartier gave to this fair emi- nence the name of Mojit Royal, whence is derived the present name of the city. In 1603 this point was visited by the noble Cham plain, but Hochelaga had disap- peared, and only a few wandering Algonquins could be seen in the countr^^. The Iroquois of the great town had been driven to the S. by the powerful Algonquina (such is the Mohawk tradition). At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris heard celestial voices, bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour. Filled wich sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Royal, and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lordof Blaisonneuve and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrated the island to the Holy Family under the name of '' Ville Marie de Montreal " (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Maisonneuve and his people landed at Mon- treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was concluded, the priest said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are few, but 5'our work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1617, and in 1657 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689, 1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops from New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then had 4,000 in- habitants, and was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with 100 of his men. Gen. PreScott sent them to England as " banditti," and Allen was imprisoned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was taken by the American army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 inhabitants. The completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this place, and its increase has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. In 1832 the cholera destroyed 1.843 persons, out of a population of 30,()00 ; and in 1852 a large part of the city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 300 tons could not reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- chants (headed by Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city is visited regularly by ocean steamships of 4,000 tons, and by the largest vessels of the merchant-marine. 318 R(nUe76. "AROUND THE MOUNTAIN." 76. The Environs of Montreal. Montreal is situated on the S. E. side of the island of Montreal, which is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. around. It is divided into 10 par- ishes, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- ulation. The favorite drive is that * "Around the Mountain," a distance of 9 M. The road passes out by the Hotel Dieu and through the suburb of St. Jean Baptiste (whence a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at Cote St. Michel). At Mile-End the carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes the avenue which leads (to the 1.) to the Mount Royal Cemetery. The road ascends to higher grades, and beautiful views open on the N. and W., including 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear day the sph-es of the Catholic College of St. Therese are seen, several leagues to the N., beyond the Riviere aux Chiens. The village of Cote des Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cotd des Neiges in France, which derived its name from a legend that a miraculous cruci- form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Notre Dame des Neiges. From this village the inter-mountain road leads E. to Montreal. On the lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the Seminar}'- grounds, from which a beautiful *view is obtained. (The usual charges for the ride around the mountain are $1.50 for 2-3 persons, in a cab, or $ 2 for 4 persons ; for a two-horse carriage, $ 4, for 1 - 4 persons.) A road turns to the r. from Cote des Neiges and passes around the bold highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair i-ural scenery. Beyond the hamlet of Cote St. Luc it reaches Cote St. Antoine, the seat of the fine building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called Villa Maria, and is occu- pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 25 sisters and 172 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa Maria is the Church of St. Luc. The short Yoad from this point to the city is made interesting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for 4 M. after passing the toll-gate it skirts the Seminary grounds. The Sault au Recollet is 7 M. W. of Montreal, on the Riviere des Prairies, and is frequentlj'- visited for the sake of its picturesque rapids. Picnic parties occupy the forest-covered Priests' Island, whence the de- scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault au Recollet is the Isle Jesus, which is nearly 25 M. long, and contains the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near which is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). Hochelaga is at the N. E. end of the Montreal horse-car line, and is LACHINE RAPIDS. Rcmte76. 319 the point where the Northern-Colonization and North-Shore Railways are to terminate. It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid of St. Mary. There are several fine villas here, and the * Convent of the Sacred Name of Jesus and Mary is the most extensive monastic institu- tion in Canada. Hochelnga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge ; and 3-4 M. farther E. is Longue Point, near which the late Sir George E. Cartier resided. The river-road gives views of Longueuil, Boucherville, and Varennes, on the S. shore. Lachine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W. of Montreal, and is a favorite summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque ; and the upper road runs through the manufactui-ing town called Tannery West, which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one road and retui-n by the other. Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Champlain in 1613, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China {La Chine). In 1689 the Ifoquois Indians destroyed the French town here, with all its Inhabitants, 200 of whom were burnt at the stake. Opposite Lachine is the populous village of Caughnawaga, inhabited by about 500 of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are governed by a council of seven chiefs. The * Lachine Rapids may be visited by taking the 7 a. m. train (at the Bonaventure station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a pilot from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. " Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools a storm- lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your ves- sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters ; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruflQed bosom of ' below the rapids.' " The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridee (see page 316), and opens an imposing panoramic *view of the citv. (Tickets for""the round- trip cost 50 c. ; and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 a. m ) The Belceil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Grand Trunk Raihvay to St. Hilaire, whence the mountain is easily ascended, passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- rence) the Bishop of Nancj^ erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cross was blown down, several years ago. The * view from Belceil includes a radius of 60 M. over the fertile and thickly settled plains of the St. Lawrence Vallej', with the blue mountains of Vermont far away in the S. E. The Boucherville Moun- tain is reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 320 Route 76. OTTAWA. and commands fine views. There are 10 lakes on this ridge, one of which, the Manor Lake, is on a level with the top of the towers of Notre Dame, in Montreal. St. Anno {du Bout de VIsle) is 21 M. S. W. of Montreal, and may be reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a village of 1,000 inhabitants, with two inns, and has an ancient church which is much revered by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs. Many of the people of Montreal visit this place during the summer. The village is at some dis- tance from the railway, between Lake St. Louis (of the St. Lawrence) and the Lake of the Two Mountains (of the Ottawa Eiver). The Ottawa is here crossed by a fine railwa3^-bridge, resting on 16 stone piers ; and the famous Rapids of St. Anne are flanked by a canal. Here Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning: — *' Faintly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. Soon as the woods on shore look dim ^ "We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. Row, brothers, row ; the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near, and the dayUght 's past. " Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 0, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! Blow, breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near, and the daylight 's past." Steamers run daily up the Ottawa River to Ottawa {Russell Hotel), the capital of Canada. The Canadian ** Parliament House is situated on a lofty bluff over the Ottawa River, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic architecture in America or the world. The great * Victoria Tower in the centre of the fagade is im- posing in its proportions ; and the polygonal structure of the Dominion Library is in the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and Chamber of Commons are worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass windows and marble columns. In the Senate is a statue of Queen Yictoria, and near the vice-regal throne are busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The departmental buildings which flank the Parliament House are stately structures, in harmouious architecture, and of the game kinds of stone. The Cathedral cf Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower town are interesting ; also the new churches of the middle town (which, like^the rest of the city, is still undergoing a formative process). The **Cliaudiere Tails are just above the city, where the broad Ottawa River plunges down over long and ragged ledges. In this vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the con- nected industries which support the French Canadians, who form the majority of the citizens here. S. of the city are the pretty Rideau Falls. Steamers depart fre- quently for Montreal, and for the remote forests of the N. The river and city of Ottawa are fully described in the companion to this hand-book, Osgood's Middle States ("with the Northern Frontier from Niagara Falls to Montreal ; also, Baltimore, Washington, and North- ern Virginia"). It also includes descriptions of the Upper St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, Lake Champlain and Lake George, and the routes from New York to Montreal. Osgood's Ntw England contains also descriptions of Northern Vermont and New Hampshire, and the routes between Boston and Montreal or Quebec. > J 01 O' K P' tL Ie of B es to re F Ic n< tl c INDEX. Abattis, P. Q. 292. Advocate Harbor 103, 80. Agulquac River 54. Aiuslie Glen 167, 169. Albert Bridge, C. B. 154. Albert Mines, N. B. 72. AlbertoD, P. E. I. 179. Albion Mines, N. S. 136. Aldouin River, 60. Alemek Bay, N. B. 63. Alexander Point 63. Alexis River 225. Allagash River, Me. 58. Allandale, N. B. 52. Alright Id. 184. Alston Point, N. B. 65. Amherst, N. S. 78, 74. Amherst Id. 183. Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. Andover, N. B. 54. Ange Gardien, P. Q. 283. Annandale, P. E. I. 182. Annapolis Basin, N. S. 84. Annapolis Royal 85. Annapolis Valley 88. Anticosti 234. Antigonish, N. S. 138. Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. Apple River, N. S. 80. Apsey Cove, N. F. 210. Aquafort, N. F. 198. ArdoiseMt.,N. S. 93. Argentenay, P. Q. 290. Argyle, N.S. 116, 125. Aricbat, C. B. 145. Arisaig, N. S. 139. Aroostook Valley, Me. 55. Arthurette, N. B. 54. Aspotogon Mt. , N. S. 127. Aspy Bay, C. B. 160. Athol. N. B. 80. Atlantic Cove, C. B. 160. Aulac, N. B. 74. Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. Avonport, N. S. 91. Aylesford, N. S. 89. Aylesford Lakes 90. Baccalieu Id., N.F. 201,205, 14* Baccaro Point, N. S. 123. Baddeck, C. B. 162. Baddeck River, 167. Bagotville, P. Q. 302. Baie des Rochers, P. Q. 295. Bale St. Paul. P. Q. 292. Baie Verte, N S. 74. Ballard Bank, The 199. Ballyhaly Bog, N. F. 195. Bangor, Me. 39. Barachois, N. B. 59. Bareneed, N. F. 207. Barnaby Id., P. Q. 250, Barra, Strait of 164. Barr'd Ids., N. F. 210. Barrow, N. F. 214. Barrow Harbor 203. Barton, N. S. 112. Basin ofMinas 101, 108. Basque Harbor 183. Basque Island 251. Bass River 81. Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61. Batiscan, P, Q. 307. Batteau Harbor 225. Battery Point, N. B. 68. Battle Id.,Lab. 224, 200,206. Bay, Argyle, N. S. 116. Belleisle, N. B. 42. Bonavista, N. F. 203. Bonne, Lab. 219. Bradore, Lab. 230. Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. Canada, N. F. 221. Cardigan, P. E. I. 175. Conception, N.F. 195, 206. De Grave, N. F. 207. DuVin,N. B. 6L East, C. B. 147. Esquimaux, Lab 230. Eternity, P. Q. 303. Fortune, N. F. 214. Garia. N. F. 215. Ha Ha, P. Q. 301. Hairs, N. F.211. Hermitage, N. F. 215. Hillsborough 174, 175. Ingornachoix 219. Kennebecasis 40. Bay, Little, N. F. 215. Mahone, N. S. 118, 127. Miramichi, N. B. 61. ■ Oak, N. B. 34. of Chaleur 64, 240. of Despair 215. of Fair and False 203. ofFundy31,83. of Islands 218. of Notre Dame, N. F. 210. of St. John 219. Placentia, N. F. 212. Richmond, P. E. I. 178. Roberts, N. F. 207. St. Anne's, C. B. 158. St. George's, N. F. 217. St. John's, P. Q 304. St. Margaret's 126, 118. St. Mary's 112, 213. Sandwich, Lab. 225. Trinity, N. F. 208, 201. Verd, N. F. 201, 208. White, N. F, 221. Beach, The 206. Bear Cove 93. Bear Point 143. Bear River 85. Beaubair's Id., N. B. 63. Beaulieu, P. Q 289. Beaumont, P. Q. 254. Beauport, P. Q. 276. Beaver Bank, N. S. 93 Beaver Harbor, C. B. 162. Beaver Harbor, N. B. 31. Beaver Harbor, N. S. 132. Beaver River 114. Becancour, P. Q. 307. Bedeque Bav, P. E. I. 174. Bedford Basin, N. S 100. Bellechasse Id. 254. Belledune, N. B 66. Belle Isle 220, 206. Belleisle Bay, N. B. 42.* Bell Isle, N. F. 221. Belleorem, N. F. 214. Belliveau Cove, N. S. 112. Belliveau Village 73. Beloeil Mt., P. Q. 319. Benacadie Point 165. 322 INDEX. Benmore 280. Bersimis River 233. Berthier en bas 254. Berthier en haul 308. Berwick, N. S. 90. BicId.,P. Q. 251. Big Loran, C. B. 154. Big Tancook Id. 128. Biquette, P. Q. 251. Birch Point 64. Birch town, N. S. 121. Bird Island Cove 202. Bird Isles 184. Bird Rock 161. Black Bay 228. Black Brook 61. Blackhead 196. Blackhead Cove 210. Black Point, N. S. 122. Black River, N. F. 212. Black River, P. Q. 295. Blancherotte, C. B. 147. Blanc Sablon, Lab 229. Blandford, N. B. 27. Blind Lake, N. S. 126. Bliss Id ,N. B. 31. Blissville, N. B. 49. Blockhouse Mines 153. Blomidon, Cape 102, 103. Bloody Bay, N.F. 203. Bloody Bridge 79. Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. Blow-me-Down Head 207. BlueMts.,N. S. 90,115. Blue Pinion, N. F. 214. Blue Rocks, N. S. 118. Boar's Back, N. S. 82. Boar's Head, N. B. 40. Boiestown, N. B. 47, 62. Boisdale 162. Bonami Point 67. Bonaparte Lake 36- Bonaventure Id. 243. Bonavista Bay, N. F. 203. Bonhomme, Le 307. Bonne Bay 219. Bonne Esperance Bay 230. Bonny, Lab. 230. Bon Portage Id. 124. Bonshaw, P. E. T. 174. Bothwell, P. E I. 182. Boucherville, P. Q. 309. Boularderie, C. B. 161. Bout de I'Tsle 308. Bradford's Cove 29. Bradore Bay, Lab. 230. Brae, P. E. I. 179. Braha, N. F 221. Branch, N. F. 212. Brandies, The 201. Brand v Pots 252, 296. Bras d'Or, The 161. Breton, Cape 149, 154. Bridgeport, C. B. 152. Bridgetown, N. S. 88. Bridgeton, P. E. 1. 182. Bridgewaterl28,119. Brigg's Corner 49. Brighton, N. S. 112. Brigus, N. F. 207. Bristol, N. B. 51. Broad Cove, N. B. 29. Broad Cove, N. F. 203. Broad Cove, N. S. 120. Broad Cove Intervale 169. Brookfield, N. S. 82, 130. Brooklyn, N. S. 93. Brookvale, N. B. 48. Broyle Harbor 197. Brucker's Hill 26. Brule Harbor 81. Brunet Id. 214. Bryant's Cove 207. Buctouche, N. B. 59. Bull Arm, N. F. 209. Bull Moose Hill 41. Burgeo, N. F. 215. Burgoyne's Ferry 51. Burin. N.F. 214, 212. Burlington, N. S 93. Burnt Church 62, 63. Burnt Head 207. Burnt Ridge 202. Burton, N. B. 43. Burying Place 211. Butter Pots, The 199. Cacouna, P. Q. 296, 252. Calais, Me. 35. Caledonia Comer 130. Calliere, P. Q. 295. Calvaire, Miq. 185- Calvaire, P. Q 306. Cambridge, N. B. 42. Cambriol, N. F. 214. Campbell River 55. Campbellton, N. B. 68. Camille, Mt. 249. Campobello Id. 25. Canaan River 72. Canada Bay 221. Canada Creek 90. Canning, N. B. 43. Canning, N. S. 91. Canso 142. Canterbury 37, 52. Cap a I'Aigle 294. au Corbeau 292. de la Magdelaine 307. de Meule 184. Rouge 281. St. Ignace 253. Cape Alright 184. Anguille, N. F. 217. Ballard, N. F. 213. Bauld, N. F. 220. Bear 175, 181. Blomidon, 91, 102, 103. Cape Bluff, Lab. 225. Breton, 149, 154. Broyle, N. F. 197. Canso, N. S. 134, 142, Chapeau Rouge 214, 189. Chatte, P. Q. 249. Chignecto, N. S. 104. Cove, N. S. 114. Cove, P. Q. 241. Colombier, P. Q. 233. Corneille, 294. Dauphin 158, 161. Desolation 226. Despair, P. Q. 241. Diable, P. Q. 252. d'Or, N. S. 103. East, P. Q. 301. Egmont, P. E.L 174,179. English, N. F. 213. EnragtS N. B. 72. Eternity, P. Q. 303. Fogo,N. F. 204, 210. Fourchu, N. S. 125. Freels, N. F. 203, 213. Gaspe, P. Q. 246. George, P. Q. 304. Goose 294. Grand Bank 214. Gribaune 291. Jourimain 59, 73. Kildare 180. Labaie 292. Lahave, N. S. 120. La Ilune 215. Largent 202. Mabou, C. B. 168. Magdelaine 248. Maillard 292. Marangouin 73. Morien, C. B. 153. Negro, N. S. 122. Norman, N. F. 220. North, C. B. 160. Perry, C. B. 153. Pine, N. F. 213. Porcupine, N. S. 144. Race, N. F 199, 189. Ray, N. F. 217, 216. Rhumore, C. B. 147. Ridge, N. F. 203. Ro?eway, N. S. 121. Rosier 247, 246. Rouge 291. Sable, N. S. 123. St. Anne 249. St. Francis 201, 225, 301. St. George 218 St. Lawrence 160, 170. St. Michael 225. St. Nicholas 233. Sambro 118, 93. Smoky, C. B. 159. Spear, N.F. 189, 196. Spencer 104, 83. INDEX. 323 Cape Split, N. S. 104. Tourmente 287, 253. Tourmentiue 59, 73, 174. Traverse 174. Trinity, P. Q. 303. Try on, P. E. I 178. Victoria, P. Q. 304. West 302. Whittle, Lab. 230. Wolfe 179. Caplin Cove 198. Caraquette 66, 62. Carbonear, N.r. 208. Cardigan, N. B. 50. Cardigan, P. E.I. 181. Caribacoa 145. Caribou Id. 175, 224. Caribou Plains 80. Caribou Point 233. Carleton, N. B. 24. Caiieton, P. Q. 239. Carrousel Id. 233. Cascapediac Bay 240. Cascunipec 180. Castle Id., Lab. 227. Catalina, N. F. 201. Catalogue, C. B. 154. Cataracouy 280. Cat Cove 221. Caughnawaga 319. Cavendish, F. E. I. 178. Caverne de Bontemps 290. Cawee Ids. 283. Central Falmouth 91. Centre Hill 209. Chaleur, Bay of, 64,240. Chamcook Mt. S3. Cham plain, P. Q. 307. Chance Harbor 31. Change Ids. 205, 210. Channel, N. F. 216 Chapel Id, C. B. 147. Charlesbourg, P. Q. 279. Charlottetown,P. E. 1.175. Chateau Bay, Lab. 227. Chateau Bellevue 287. Chateau Bigot 280. Chateau Richer 284. Chatham, N. B. 61,66. Chaudiere Falls 282. Chebucto Head 93. Chedabucto Bay 143. Chester, N. S. i27, 90. Cheticamp, C. B. 170. Cheticamp, N. S. 114. Chezzetcook.N. S. 13L Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. Chignecto, Cape, 104. Chignecto Peninsula 79. Chimney Tickle 227. Chiputneticook Lakes, N. B. 38, 46. Chivirie 93, 102, 106. Chouse Brook 221. Ciboux Ids. 161. Clairvaux, P. Q. 292. Clare, N. S. 113. Clarendon, N. B. 38. Clementsport, N. S. 85. Clementsvale 85. Clifton, N. B. 66, 71. Clode Sound 203. Cloridorme 248. Clouds, The, 221. Clyde River, N. S. 124. Coacocho River 231. CobequidMts., N. S. 80. Cocagne, N. B. 59. Colebrooke, N. B. 55. Cole's Id. N. B. 47. Colinet, N. F. 213. Columbe 215 Conception Bay 195, 206. C6nche, N. F. 221. Contrecoeur, P. Q. 308. Corl.in, N. F. 214. Cornwallis YaUey, N. S. 90. 103, 107. Corny Beach 243. Cote'de Beaupre,283. des Neiges 318. St. Antoine 318. St. Luc 318. St. Michel 318. Cottel's Id. 203. Coudres, Isle aux 293. Country Harbor 133. Covehead, P. E I. 181. CcwBay 101,150,153. Cox"s Point 49. Crabb's Brook 217. Crane Id., P. Q. 253. Crapaud, P. E. L 174, Creignish 168. Croque, N. F. 221. Cross Id., N. S. 118. Cumberland Bay 49. Cumberland Harbor 230. Cupids, N. F. 207. Dalhousie, N. B. 67. Dalibaire, P. Q. 249. Dark Cove, 30. Dartmouth, N. S. 101. Dauphiney's Cove 126. Davis Strait 226. Dead Ids. 216, 225. Deadman's Isle 184. Debec Junction 37. Debert 80, 105. Deep Cove 127. Deerfield, N S 115. Deer Harbor 209. Deer Isle, N. B. 25. Deer Lake 37. Deer Pond 219. Demoiselle Hill 183. Denys River, C. B. 165. De Sable 174. Descente des Femmes 302. Deschambault 306. D'Escousse, C. B. 145. Despair, Bay of, 215. Despair, Cape, 241. Devil Id. 93. Devil's Back, N. B. 41. Devil's Goose-Pasture 90. Devil's Head 34. Diable Bay 228. Digby, N. S. 84. Digby Neck 116. Dipper Harbor 31. Distress Cove 212. Dodding Head 214. Dollannan Bank 202. D'Or, Cape, N. S. 103. Dorchester, N. B. 73. Doucet's Id. N B. 34. Douglas Harbor 49. Douglastown, N. B. 62. Douglastown, P. Q. 244. Douglas Valley 38. Dumfries, N B. 52. Dundas, N. B. 59. Dundas, P, E. I. 182. Dunk River 174. Earl town, N. S. 136. East Bay 147, 165, 214. Eastern Passage 93. East Point 182. Eastport, Me. 26. East River 126, 225. Eboulements, Les, 294. Echo Lake 131. Economy Point 105, 80. Ecureuils, Les, 306. Eddy Point 143. Edmundston, N. B. 57. Edoobekuk, C B. 147. Eel Brook 30. Egg Ids., Lab. 233. Ekum Sekum. N. S. 132. Ellershouse, N. S. 93. Elliot River 174. Elmsdale, N. S 82. Elysian Fields, N. S. 79. Enfield, N. S. 82. English Harbor 201. English Harbor West 214. English Point 233. Englishtown, C. B 158. Enniskillen,N. B. 38. Entry Id. 184. Escasoni, C. B. 148. Escuminac Point 61. Esquimaux Bay 230, 244. Eternity Bay 303. Exploits Id. 205, 210. Exploits, River of 210. Factory Dale, N S. 89. FairviUe, N. B. 37. 324 INDEX. Fairy Lake, N. S. 130. Falkland, N. S. 90, 93. Falls, Chaudiere 282, 320. Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. Grand 55, 66. Grand, N. F. 210. Grande-Mere 307. Lorette, P. Q. 278. Magaguadavic 32. Manitousin 232. Montmorenei 277. Nictau, N. S. 89. North River 105. Pabineau, N. B. 66. Pokiok, N. B. 52. PoUett 72. Rideau, Ont. 820 Riviere du Loup 295. Riviere du Sud 253. Sfc. Anne, P. Q. 286. Sault a la Puce 284. Shawanegan 307. Sissiboo, N. S. 112. Falmouth, N. S. 91 Farmington, N. S. 89. Father Point, P. Q. 250. Ferguson's Cove lOl. Fermeuse, N. F. 198. Fern Ledges 24. Ferry land, N. F. 198. Fish Head 30. Five Ids ,N. S. 105, 80. Flagg's Cove 29. Fleurant Point 67. Flint Id., C.B. 150,153. Florenceville, N. B. 53. Flower Cove 219. Fogo, N. F. 204. Folly Pass, N. S. 80. Forks, The 48, 54. Fort Beaubassin 74, 78. Fort Beausejour 74, 78. Fort Cumberland 74, 78. Forteau, Lab. 228. Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. Fort Ingalls, N. B. 58. Fort Jaques Cartier 306. Fort Kent, Me. 58. Fort Lawrence 74, 78. Fort Meductic, N. B. 52, 46. Fort Nascopie, Lab. 226. Fort Norwest, Lab. 226. Fortune, N. F. 214. Foster's Cove 54. Fourchette, N. F. 221. Fourchu, C. B. 147. Fox Harbor, N. S. 103, 81 Fox Hirbor, Lab. 224. Fox River 248. Framboise, C. B. 147. Frazer's Head 104. Fredericton, N. B. 44. Fredericton June. 38. French Cross, N. S. 89. French Fort Creek 180. French Lake 48. Frenchman's Cove 214. French River 138. French Shore, The 216. French Village 151. Frenchville, Me. 57. Freshwater Bay 203. Friar's Face 26. Frozen Ocean 130. FunkId.,N. F. 204. Gabarus Bay 154, 149. Gagetown, N. B. 42, 48. Gairloch.N. S. 136. Galantry Head 185. Gambo Ponds 203. Gander Bay 210. Gannet Rock, N. B. 29. Gannet Rock 184. Garia Bay 215- Garnish, N. F. 214. Gasps, P. Q. 244. Gaspereaux Lake 90. Gay's River, N. S 82. Gentilly, P. Q. 307. George Id. 179. George's Id., N. S. 98. Georgetown,P. E.I. 181,175 Gibson, N. B. 49. Gilbert's Cove 112. Glace Bay 153, 150. Glengarry, N. S. 136. Goat Id., N. S. 85. Godbout, Lab. 233. Goldenville, N. S. 133. Gold River 128. Gondola Point 71. Gooseberry Isles, 203. Goose Id. 253. Gouffre, Le 293. Gowrie Mines 153. Grand Anse, C. B. 145. Grand Anse, N. B. 66. Grand Banks, The 199. Grand Bay 40. Grand Digue 145. Grande Bale 302. Grande-Mere Falls 307. Grand Falls, Lab. 226. Grand Falls, N. B. 55. Grand Greve, P. Q. 244. Grand Harbor 29. Grand Lake 36, 48. Grand Lake Stream 35. Grand Manan 28. Grand Narrows 164. Grand Pond 218, 211. Grand Pre 107, 91, 101. Grand River, C. B. 147. Grand River, N. B. 56. Grand River 241. Grand-River Lake 147. Grand Rustico 178. Grandy's Brook, 215. Grant Isle, Me. 57. Granville, N. S. 86. Great Bartibog 61. Great Boule 233. Great Bras d'Or 161, 164. Great Codroy 217. Great Ha Ha Lake 302. Great Harbor Deep 221. Great Meccatina 230. Great Miquelou 186. Great Pabos 241. Great Pond 248. Great Pubnico Lake 124. Great St. Lawrence 214. Great Shemogue 59. Great Village 81. Green Bay 211. Greenfield 130. Green Harbor 209. Green Ids 124,214,252. Greenly Id. 229. Green River 57. Greenspond, N. F. 203. Greenville 80. Greenwich Hill 41. Grenville Harbor 178. Griffin's Cove 248. Griguet, N. F. 221. Grimross, N. B. 42, Grindstone Id. 183. Grondines, P. Q. 308. Grosse Isle 254. Grosses Coques 113. Gull Rock 121. Gut of Canso 142. Guysborough 133. Habitants Bay 143. Ha Ha Bay, P. Q. 301. Halifax, N. S. 93. Admiralty House 97. Cathedral 98. Citadel 96. Dalhousie Coll. 98. Gov't House 98. Harbor 93. Hortic. Gardens 98. Museum 93 Parliament Building 95. Provincial Building 95. Queen's Dockyard 97. Y. M. C. A. 96. Halifax, P. E. I. 179. Hall's Bay 211, 218. Hammond's Plains 100. Hampton, N. B. 71. Hampton, N. S. 89. Hantsport, N. S. 91, 101. Harbor Briton 214. Harbor Buffet 212. Harbor Grace, N. F. 207. Harborville, N. S. 90. Hare Bay, N. F. 221. INDEX. 325 HareId.,P. Q. 252. Hare's Ears 198. Hare"s-Head Hills 218. Harmony, P. E. I. 182. Harvey, N. B. 38. Harvey Corner 72. Haulover Isthmus 146. Havelock.N. S. 89. Head of Amherst 78. Heart Ridge, N. F. 210. Heart's Content 208. Heart's Delight 209. Heart's Desire 209. Heart's Ease, N. F. 209. Hebertville, P. Q. 300. Hebron, Lab. 226. Heights of Land 226. Hell Hill 197. Hermitage Bay 215. Herring Cove, N. S. 93. High Beacon 227. Highland Park 23. Highland Village 81. High Point 301. Hillsborough, N. B. 72. Hillsborough Bay 174. Hillsborough River 180. Hillsburn 86. Hochelaga, P. Q. 318. Hodge- Water River 213. Holland Bay, 180. Holyrood, N. F. 199. Holyrood Pond 213. Hooping Harbor 221. Hope, P. Q. 241. Hope All, N. F. 209. Hopedale, Lab. 226. Hopewell 136. Hopewell Cape 72. Horton Landing 91. Hculton, Me. 37, 51. Howe's Lake 23. Hudson's Strait 226. Humber River 219. Hunter River 177, 178. Indian Bay 167, 203. Indian Beach 30. Indian Gardens 130. Indian Id., Lab. 225. Indian Ids. 210. Indian Lorette 278. Indian Tickle 225. Indiantown, N. B. 47. Indian Village 51. Ingonish,C. B. 159. Intervale 133 lonclay Hill 197. Irish Cove, C. B. 147. Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. Ironbound Id., N. S. 119. Island, Alright 184. Amherst 183. Anticosti 234. Island, Baccalieu, N. I". 201. Barnaby, P. Q. 250. Beaubair's 63. Bellechasse 254. Bic,P. Q. 250. ■ Blackbill 227. Bonaventure 243. Bon Portage 124. Boughton 175. Boularderie 161. Brandy Pots 252. Brier 117. Brunet214. . Bryon 184. Campobello 25. Cai e Breton 141. Cape Sable 123. Caribou 175, 224. Carrousel 233. Castle, Lab. 227. Caton's 41. 'Cawee 233. Chapel 147. Cheticamp 170. Cheyne 29. Christmas 164. Cobbler's 203. Coffin 184. Cole's 47. Cottel's 203. Crane, P. Q. 253. Cross, N. S. 118. Dead, N. F. 225. Deer 203. Devil, N. S. 93. Egg, Lab. 233. Entry 184. Esquimaux, Lab. 231. Exploits, N. F. 205, 210. Fair, N. F. 203. Fishflake 227. Fly 225. Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. Foster's, N. B. 41. Fox, N. B. 61. Funk, N. F. 203. George 179. George's, N. S. 98. Goat, N. S. 85. Goose, P. Q. 253. Governor's 175. Grand Dune 61. Grand Manan 28. Grassy, N. B. 41. Great Caribou 224. Greenl24,201, 220, 252 Grimross, N. B. 43. Grindstone 72, 183. Grosse 184. Hare, P. Q. 252. Henry 169, Heron 67. Horse 221. Huntington 225. Island, Indian 225. Ireland, N. F. 215. Ironbound 119. Jaques Cartier 220. Kamouraska 252. Large 231. * Lennox, P. E. I. 179. Little Miquelon 186. Little Bay 211. Locke's, N. S. 121. Long42, 101,107, 117, 212. Lower Musquash 42. McNab's, N. S. 101,93. Madame, P. Q. 254. Mauger's 43. Melville 101. Merasheen 212. Middle 43. Miquelon 186. Miscou 64. Moose 26. Nantucket 29. Negro 122. Newfoundland 187. New World 205. of Ponds 225. Panmure, P. E. I. 175. Park, P E. I. 179. Partridge, N. B. 15. Partridge, N. S. 102, 103. Penguin 203. Pictou, N. S. 175. Pilgrims 252. Piucher's 203. Pinnacle 105. Pockf-uedie 63. Pool's 203. Portage 61. Priests' 318. Prince Edward 172. Quarry 231. Quirpon 220. Ram 121. Random, N. F. 209. Reaux, P. Q. 254. Red 212, 218, 252. Sable 134. Saddle 228. Sagona 214. St. Barbe221. St. PauFs 160. St. Pierre 185. Sandous 46. Seal, N. S. 124. Sea-Wolf 169. Sheldrake 61. Shippigan 63. Smith's 169. Spencer's 103, 104, 106. Spotted, N. F. 225. Square, Lab. 225. Stone Pillar 253. Sugar 60, 51. Venison 225. 326 INDEX. Island, Vin, N. B. 61. White Head 29. White Horse 31. Wolf 184. Wood Pillar 253- Island^, Battle 224. Burnt 215. Camp 227. Ciboux 181. Bead 21-5. Five 105. Lit le St. Modeste 228. Magdalen 183. Mingan 231. Mutton 124. Penguin 203. Ragged 212. Bamea 215. Ram's, N. F. 212. Red 147. Seal 225. Seven, Lab. 232. Tancook, N. S. 128. Tusket, N. S. 125. Isle aux Chiens 185. aux Coudres 293. Bell, N. F. 221. Belle 206, 220. Deadman's 184. Deer, N. B. 25. Groais 221. Haute 104. Jesus 318. Madame 145. of Orleans 288. St Louis 304. St. Therese 308. Verte, P Q. 252. Isles, Bird 184. Burgeo 215 de la Demoiselle 230. Gooseberry 203. Passe Pierre -305. Peterel 227. Twillingate 205. Wadham, N. F. 203. West, N. B.25, 31. Jackson's Arm 221. Jacksonville, N. S. 90. Jaques Car tier .303. Jebogue Point 125 Jeddore, N. S. 132. Jemseg, N. B. 42, 48. Jerseyman Id. 145. Jesus, Isle 318. Jeune-Lorette 278. Joe Batt's Arm 210. Joggins Shore 80. Jolicoeur, N. B. 73. Joliette, P. Q. Jonquiere 300. Judique, C B. 168. Jullaushaab, Gr. 226. Kamouraska, P. Q. 252. Keels, N. F. 203. Kegashka Bay 231. Kempt Head 162. Kempt, N S. 115. Kempt Lake, N. S. 90. Kennebecasis Bay 40, 22. Kenogami, P. Q. 300. Kensington 178. Kentviile, N. S. 90. Keswick Valley 50. Keyhole, N. B. 49. Kingsclear, N. B. 51. King's Cove 203. Kingston, N. B. 42. Kingston, N. S. 89. Kouchibouguac Bay 61. La Bonne St. Anne 285. Labrador 223. Lac i la Belle Truite 302. Lachine, P. Q. 320. La Fleur de Lis 221. Lahave River 128. Lake Ainslie 167, 169. Bathurst 211. Bear 38. Beauport 279. Belfry 154. Ben Lomond 23. Blind 123. Catalogue, C B. 154. Cedar, N. S. 115. Chamberlain, Me. 58. Chesuncook 58. Cleveland 57. Cranberry 33. Croaker's 211. Echo, N. S. 131. Fairy, N. S. 130. French, N. B. 48. Gabarus, C. B 154. Gaspereaux 90. George 51,90, 115. George IV. 211. Grand 48, 36, 82. Gravel 295. Great Ha Ha 302. Jones 23. Kempt 90. Lewey's, Me. 35. Lily, N. B. 22. Little Ha Ha 302. Long, P. Q. 58. Long, N. S. 82. Magaguadavic 38. Malaga, N. S. 129. Manor, P. Q. 319. Maquapit, N. B. 48. Metapedia 69. Mira, C B. 154. Mistassini 301. Moosehead 58. Mount Theobald 71. Lake Nepisiguit 55. Nictor, N. B. 55. Oromocto 38. Pechtaweekagomic 68. Pemgockwahen 58. Pockwock 100. Pohenagamook 58. Ponhook, N. S. 126. Porter's 131. Pom Medway 130. Preble, Me. 57. Prince William 52. Queen's, N. B. 37. Quiddv Viddv 195. Robin Hool 37. Rocky, N. S. 82, Ros^ignol 130. St. Charles 279. St. Joachim 287. St. John, P. Q. 301. St. Peter, P. Q. 307. Sedgwick 57. Segum Sega 130. Sheogomoc 52. Shepody, N. B. 72. Sherbrooke 90. Sherwood, N. B. 37. Ship Harbor 132. S. Oromocto 38. Spruce, N. B. 24. Stream 49. Taylor's 23. Temiscouata 58, 295. Terra Nova 203. Tracy's, N B. 71. Tusket, N. S. 115. Two-Mile 90. Utopia, N. B. 32. Vaughan, N. S. 115. Washademoak 47, 42. Welastookwaagamis 58. Went worth 113. Windsor, N. F- 195. Winthrop, Me. 58. Lakes, Aylesford 90. Bras d'Or 161. Chiputneticook 38. Dartmouth 101. Eagle, Me. 58. Schoodic, Me. 35. Tusket, N. S. 115. La Manche 197, 212. Lance-au-Loup 228. Lance Cove 206. Land's End, 41. Langley Id 186. Lanoraie, P. Q. 308. L'Anse a I'Eau 305. La Poile, N. F. 215. L'Archeveque 147. L'Ardoise, C B. 146. Large Id. 231. LaScie221,211. L'Assomption, P. Q. SOS. INDEX. 327 Laval Rirer 299. LaTaltrie, P. Q. 308. La Vieille 246. Lawlor's Lake 70. Lawrencetown 89, 131. Lazaretto, Tracadie 62. Ledge, The 35. Leitchfield, N. S. 86. Lennox Id. 179. Lennox Passage 145. > Les E'ooulements 294. Les Ecureuils 306. Les Escoumains 233. L'Etang du Nord 184. L'Etang du Savoyard 185. L'Etang Harbor 31. Letite Passage 32. Levis, P. Q; 282. Lewey's Id. 35. Lewis Cove 47. Lily Lake 22. Lingan 152, 150, Lion's Back 23. Liscomb Harbor 132. L'Islet, P. Q. 253. L'Islet au Massacre 250. Little Arichat 145. Little Bay Id. 205, 211. Little Bras d'Or 161. Little Falls 57. Little Glace Bay 153. Little Ha Ha Lake 302. Little Lorau 154. Little Miquelon 186. Little Narrows 167. Little Pabos 24L Little Placentia 212. Little River 22. Little Rocher 72. Little Saguenay 304. Little St. Lawrence 214. Little Seldom-come-by 210. Little Shemogue 59. Little Tancook 128. Liverpool, N. S. 120, 130. Lobster Harbor 221. Loch Alva 37. Loch an Fad 147. Loch Lomond, C. B. 147. Loch Lomond, N. B. 22. Lochside, C. B. 147. Loch TJist 147. Locke's Id., N. S 121. Logic Bay 195. 200. Londonderry 105. Longld. 40 ; 42. 101,117. Long Pilgrim 252, Long Point 231, Long Range 217. Long Reach 41. Long's Eddy 30. Longue Point 319. Lorette, Indian 278. Lotbiniere, P. Q. 306. Louisbourg, C. B, 154, 149. Loup Bay 228. Low Point 168. Lower Canterbury 52. Lower Caraquette 66. Lo-wer French Vill 51. Lower Horton 107- Lower Middleton 89. Lower Prince William 51. Lower Queensbury 51. Lower Woodstock 52. Lubec, Me. 26. Ludlow, N. B. 47. Lunenburg 118, 128. Mabou, C. B. 169. Mabou Valley 168. McAdam June. 38, Maccan, N. S. 80, 79. Mace's Bay 31. McNab's Id. 101, 93. Madawaska 57. Magaguadavic River 32. Magdalen Ids. 183. Magdelaine, Cape 248. Maguacha Point 67, 239. Magundy, N. B. 51. Mahogany Road 24. Mahone Bay 127, 118, Main-i-Dieu 150. Maitland 82, 105, 129. Malaga Lake 130. Malagawdatchkt 165. Malbaie, P. Q. 294. Mai Bay 244. Malcolm Point 61. Malignant Cove 139. Malpeque Harbor 178. Manchester, N. S. 133. Manicouagan 233, 250. Manitousin Falls 232. Maquapit Lake 48. Marchmont 280. Margaree River 167. Margaree Forks 170. Margaretsville 89. Maria, P. Q. 240. Marie Joseph 132. Marion Bridge 154. Marshalltown 112. Mars Head 117. Mars Hill 54. Marsh Road 22. Marshy Hope 138. Mascarene 32. Masstown 81. Matane, P. Q. 249. Mattawamkeag 39, 58. Maugerville. N. B. 43. Mealy Mts. 225. Meccatina, Lab. 230. Medisco, N. B. 66. Meductic Rapids 52. Mejarmette Portage 40. Melford Creek 143. Melrose, N. S. 82. Melvern Square 89. Melville Id. 101. Melville Lake 226. Memramcook 73. Merasheen Id, 212. Merigomish 138. Metapedia 69. Meteghan, N. S. 113. M6tis, P. Q. 249, Middle Musquodoboit 82. Middle River 163, 167. Middle Simonds, 53. Middle Stewiacke 81. Middleton, N. S. 89. Milford, N. S. 129, Milford Haven 138. Milkish Channel 41. Mill Cove, N. B. 49. Mille Vaches 299. Milltown, N. B. 35. Mill Village 128. Minas Basin 101, 108. Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. Ming's Bight 221. Minister's Face 22, Minudie, N. S. 79, Miquelon 185, 214. Mira Bay 150. MiraLake, C. B. 154. Miramichi, N. B. 61. Miscouche 179. Miscou Id. 64. Mispeck, N. B. 23. •»- Missiguash Marsh 79, 74. Mission Point 68. Mistanoque Id. 230. Mistassini, Lake 301, Moisic River 232. Molasses Harbor 134, Momozeket River 55. Moncton, N. B 72. Money Cove 30. Montague Bridge 181. Montague Mines 101, 131. Mont Joli 231. Mont Louis 249. Montmorenci Falls 277. Montreal, P. Q. 309. Bonsecours Market 312, Champ de Mars, 312. Christ Ch. Cathed. 314. Court House 312. Dominion Sq. 315. Geolog. Museum 312. Gesii Church 313. Gray Nunnery 315, Great Seminary 315. Hfltel Dieu 316. Institut Canadien 312. McGill Univ. 314. Montreal Coll. 315, Mt. Royal 316, 328 INDEX. Montreal, Nazareth Asyl. 316. New Cathedral 315. Notre Dame 311. Place d'Armes 311. Post-Office 311. Seminary 312. St. Helen's Isle 313. Victoria Bridge 316. Yictoria Square 311. Moose Harbor 120. Moosepath Park 22. Morden, N. S. 89. MorreH,P. E. 1.182. Morris Id. 116. Morristown 90, 139. Mosquito Cove 208. Moss Glen 22. Moulin k Baude 299. Mount Aspotogon 127. Blair 32. Calvaire 186. Camille 250. Chapeau 186. Dalhousie 67. Denson 91. Eboulements 294, 253. Granville 146. Hawley 89. Hermon Cemet. 280. Joli 242. Nat 225. Pisgah 71. Royal 316, 318. St. Anne 242. Stewart, P. E. 1. 181. TeneriEFe, N. B. 55. Uniacke, N. S. 93. Mountain, Ardoise, 93. Bald, 38, 55. Beloeil 319. Boar's Back 132. Boucherville 319. Chamcook 33. North 84. Salt 168. South 81 Sugar-Loaf 159. Tracadiegash 67, 239. Mountains, Antigonish 139. Baddeck 163. Blue 84,90,115,130. Cobequid 80. Ingonish 161. Mealy 225. Notre Dame 249. St. Anne 287. St. Margaret 302. Scaumenac 68. Sporting 146. Mull River 168. Murray Bay 294. Murray Harbor 181. Mushaboon Harbor 132. Musquash, N. B. 31. Musquodoboit 131. Mutton Ids. 124. Nain, Lab. 226. Napan Valley 61. Narrows, The 47, 54. Narrows, Grand 164. Nashwaak 47. Nashwaaksis 45. Natashquan Point 231. Natural Steps, The 277. Necum Tench 132. Negro Id., N. S. 122. Negrotown Point 15. Nelson, N. B. 63. Nepisiguit Lake 55. Nepisiguit River 65. Nerepis Hills, N. B.41. Nerepis River 38. Netsbuctoke 225. Neutral Id., N. B. 34. New Albany, N. S. 89. New Bandon 66. New Bay 211. New Bonaventure 210. New Brunswick 13. Newburgh,N. B. 50. ' New Canaan 48. New Carlisle 240. Newcastle 49, 62. New DubUn 119. New Edinburgh 112. Newfoundland 187. New Glasgow, N. S. 136. New Glasgow, P. E. I. 178. New Liverpool 282. New London 178. Newman Sound 203. New Perlican 209. Newport, N. S. 92, 101. Newport, P. Q. 241. New Richmond 240. New Ross, N. S. 90. New Tusket 113. Niapisca Id. 231. Nicolet, P. Q 308. Nictau Falls 89. Nictor Lake 55. Niger Sound 227. Nimrod, N. F. 211. Nipper's Harbor 205, 211. Noel, N. S. 105. North Bay 214. Northern Head 30. Northfield 129. North Harbor 212. North Joggins 73. North Lake 182. North Mt. 84. North Point 180. North River Falls 105. North Rustico 178. North Sydney 151. Northumberland Strait 60, 174, 239. Northwest Arm 100. North Wiltshire 177. Norton, N.B. 71,42. Norwest,Lab. 226. Notre Dame Bay 210, 205. Notre Dame du Lac 58. Nova Scotia 75. Nubble Id. 31. Oak Bay, N. B. 34. Oak Point 41, 61. Ochre Pit Cove 208. Offer Wadham 204. Okkak, Lab. 226. Old Barns 81. Old Bonaventure 210. Old Ferolle 219. Old Fort Point 158. Oldham Mines 82. Old Maid 29. Old Perlican 209, 201. Oldtown, Me. 39. Olomanosheebo 231. Onslow 80. Oromocto, N. B. 43. Oromocto Lake 38. Orono, Me. 39. Otnabog, N. B. 42. Ottawa, Ont. 320- Outarde River 250. Oxford, N. S. 80. Ovens, the 119. Pabineau Falls 66. Pabos, P. Q. 241. Painsec June. 72, 59. Paps of Matane 249. Paradise, N. F. 225. Paradise, N. S. 89. Parrsboro', N. S. 102. Partridge Id., N. B. 15. Partridge Id., N.S. 102. Paspebiac, P. Q 240. Patrick's Hole 290. Patten, Me. 58. Penguin Ids. 203. Penobscot River 39. Penobsquis, N. B. 71. Pentecost River 233. Pepiswick Lake 131. Perce, P. Q. 242. Perroquets, The 232. Perry, Me. 28. Perth, N. B. 54. Petitcodiac 72, 48. Petit de Grat 145. Petite Bergeronne 233. Petite Passage 117. Petit Metis 249. Petty Harbor 197. Piccadrlly Mt. 7L Pickwaakeet 42. INDEX. 329 Pictou 137, 166. Pictou Id. 175. Pilgrims, The 252. Pincher's Id. 203. Pinnacle Id., N. S. 105. Pirate's Cove 143. Pisarinco Cove 31. Placentia Bay 212. Plains of Abraham 280. Plaster Cove 143, 168. Pleasant Bay 183. Pleasant Point 27. Pleureuse Point 249. Plumweseep 71. Pockmouche, N. B. 62. Pockshaw, N. B. 66. Point a Beaulieu 295 PointAconi, C. B. 161. Amour, Lab. 228. a Pique 294. au Bourdo 69. de Monts 233, 249. duChene59,60. la Boule 305. Lepreau 31. Levi, P. Q. 282. Maquereau 241. Miscou, N. B. 64. Orignaux 252. Pleasant 40, 68, 100. Prim 175, 181. Rich, N. F. 219. St. Charles 316. St. Peter 244. Wolfe, N. B. 71. Pointe k la Garde 68. ■A la Croix 68. aux Trembles 306, 309. Mille Vaches 233. Roches 301. Rouge 299. Pokiok Falls 52. Pollett River 72. Pomquet Forks 139. Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. Grand, N. F. 218. Red Indian 211. Quemo-Gospen 213. Ponhook Lake 130, 126. Port Acadie, N. S. 113. Portage Road, N. B. 61. Port au Basque, N. F. 216. au Choix 219. au Persil, P. Q. 295. au Pique 81. au Port, N. F. 218. aux Quilles, 295. Daniel 241. Elgin, N. B.73. Porter's Lake, N. S. 131. Port Greville, N. S. 103. Hastings, C. B. 143. Hawkesbury 143. Herbert, N. S. 121. Port Hill, P. E. I. 179. Hood, C. B. 169. Joli, N. S. 121. Latour, N. S. 122. Medway, N. S. 120. . Mouton 120. Mulgrave 143, 140. Port IN euf, Lab. 233. Portneuf, P. Q. 306. Porto Nuevo Id. 149. Portugal Cove 195, 206. Port St. Augustine 230. Port Williams 89, 91. Powder-Horn Hills 212. Pownal, P. E. I. 177. Presque Isle, Me. 54. Preston, N. S. 131. Preston's Beach 61. Prim Point 83. Prince Edward Id. 172. Princetown, P. E. I. 178. Prince William 52. Prince William St. 89. Pubnico, N. S. 125. Pugwash81,80. Quaco, N. B. 71. Quebec, P. Q. 255. Anglican Cathedral 260. Basilica 261. Cathedral 261. Citadel 266. Custom House 271. Durham Terrace 259. Esplanade 268 Gen. Hospital 272. Gov.'s Garden 269, Grand Battery 269. Hotel Dieu 266 Jesuits' College 261. Laval University 263. Lower Town 271. Marine IIosp 272. Market Sq. 260. Martello Towers 270. Montcalm Ward 270. Morrin College 265. N. D. des Victoires 271. Parliament Building 263. Post-Office 264. St. John Ward 269. St. Roch 272. Seminary 262. Ursuline Conv. 264. Quemo Gospen 213. Quiddy Viddvl95. Quirpon, N. F. 220. Quispamsis, N. B. 70. Quoddy Head 26. Ragged Harbor 201. Ragged Ids. 212. Ramealds. N. F. 215. Ram Id. 121. Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. Random Sound 209. Rankin's Mills, N. B. 37. Rapide de Femme 56. Rapids, Lachine 319. Meductic 52. St, Anne 320. St. Mary's 319. Terres Rompues 300. Red Bay 228. Red Cliffs, Lab. 220, 228. Red Head, N. F. 200. Red Hills, N. F. 199. Red-Indian Pond 210, 211. Red Ids. 147. Red Point 182. Red Rapids, N. B. 54. Remsheg, N. S 81. RenewTe, N. F. 198. Renfrew, N. S. 82. Repentigny, P. Q. 308- Restigouche River 69, 56. Richibucto, N. B. 60. Richmond Bay 178. Rigolette, Lab. 226. Rimouski, P. Q. 250. River, Avon, N S. 91. Charlo, N. B. 66. Deuys, C. B. 165. Gold, N. S. 128 GoufFre, P. Q. 292. Hillsborough 180. Humber, N F. 219. John, N S. 81. Lallave, N. S. 128. Louison, N. B. 66. Magaguadavic 32. Manitou, Lab. 232. Miramichi 61. Mistassini 301. Moisic, Lab. 232. Nepisiguit 65, 55. of Castors 219. Exploits 210. Ottawa 320. Petitcodiac 72. Philip, N. S. 80. RestigoucJie 69, 56. Saguenay 297, 233. St. Anne, P. Q. 286. St. Croix, N. B 33. St. John, Lab 232. St. Lawrence 246, 305 St. Marguerite 305. St. Mary's, N. S. 133. St. Maurice 307. Riversdale, N. S 136. River, Tobique 54. Riviere a I'Ours 301. k Mars 302. du Loup 295, 252. Maheu 290. Quelle, P. Q. 252. Robbinston, Me. 33. Roberval, P. Q. 301. 330 INDEX. Robinson's Point 48. Rochette, N. B. 66. Rock, Perc6 242. Rockland, N. B. 73. Rockport 73. Rocky Bay,N. F. 210. Rocky Lake, N. S. 82. RolloBay, P. E. 1.182. Rosades, The 251. Rose Bay 119. Rose Blanche 215 Rossignol Lake 130. Rossway, N. S. 116, Rothesay 22, 70. Rough "Waters 66. Round Harbor 211. Route des Pretres 290. Royalty June. 177. Rustico, P. E. I. 178. Sabbattee Lake 127. Sabimm Lake 124. Sable Id. 134. Sackville,N. B. 73. Sacred Ids. 220. Saddle Id. 227. Sagona Id. 214. Saguenay River 297. St. Agnes, P. Q. 295. St. Albans, P. Q. 281. St. Alexis 69, 302. St. Alphonse, P. Q. 302. St. Andrews, N. B. 33, 28. St. Andrews, P. E. I. 181. St. Andrew's Channel 165. St. Angel de Laval 307. St. Anne (Bout de rL)320. St. Anne de Beaupr6 285. St. Anne de la Perade 307. St. Anne de la Pocatiere 253. St. Anne des Monts 249. St. Anne du Nord 285. St. Anne du Saguenay 300. St. Anne Mts. 287. St. Anne's Bay 158. St. Anthony 221. St. Antoine de Tilly 306. St. Antoine Perou 292. St. Ars.-ne 296 St. Augustin 306. St. Barbe 219. St. Basil 57. St. Bruno 319. St. Cecile du Bic 251. St. Charles Harbor 227. St. Colomb 280. St. Croix, P. Q. 306. St. Croix Cove 89. St. Croix River 33. St. Cuthbert 308. St. David's 178. St. Denis, P. Q. 252. St. Donat, P. Q- 250. St. Eleanors, P. E. 1. 179. St. Elizabeth, P. Q. 308. St. Esprit, C. B. 148. St. Etienne Bay 305. St. Fabien, P. Q. 2-51. St. Famille, P. Q. 289. St. Feliciti, P. Q. 249. St. Felix de Valois 308. St. Fereol, P. Q. 287. St. Fidele, P. Q. 295. St. Flavie 70, 250. St. Foy, P. Q. 281. St. Francis 58. St. Francis Harbor 225. St. Fran9ois 290. St. Fran(;ois du Lac 308. St. FrauQois Xavier 292. St. Fulgence 301. St. Genevieve 219. St. George, N. B. 32. St. George's Bay 217. St. George's Channel 165. St. Germain de Rim. 250. St. Iren^e 294. St. Ignace, Cap 253. St. Jaques 214. St. Jean Baptiste 318. St. Jean Deschaillons 307 St. Jean d'Orleans 290. St. Jean-Port-Joli 253. St. Jerome, P. Q. 301. St. Joachim 287. St. John, N. B. 15. Cathedral 18. Custom-House 17. Gen. Pub. Hosp. 18. Harbor 15. King Square 16. Post-Office 17. St. Paul's 19. Trinity 17. Valley, The 19. Wiggins Asyl. 17. Y. M. C. A. 16. St. John, Lake 301. St. John's, N. F. 189. Anglican Cathedral 191. Colonial Building 192. Gov't House 192. Harbor 189. Narrows 191. Roman-Catholic Cathe- dral 192. Signal Hill 193. St. John's Bay 304. St. Jones Harbor 209. St. Joseph, N. B. 73. St. Joseph P. Q. 282. St. Laurent 290. St. Lawrence Bay 160. St. Lawrence River 246, 805 St. Leonard, N. B. 56. St. Leon Springs 308. St. Lewis Sound 225. St. Louis Isle 304. St. Luce, P. Q. 250. St. Lunaire 221. St. Margaret River 233. St. Margaret's Bay 219. St. Margaret's Bay 126, 118. St. Marguerite River 305. St. Martin, P. Q. 318. St. Martin's, N. B. 71. St. Mary's, N. B. 45. St. Mary's, N. F. 213. St. Mary's Bay, N F. 213. St. Mary's Bav, N. S. 112. St. Mary's Bay , P. E. I. 181. St. Maurice River 307. St. Matthieu 251. St. Michael's Bay 225. St. Michel 254. St. Modeste 296. St Norbert308. St. Octave, P. Q. 249. St. Onesime, P. Q. 253. St. Pacome, P. Q. 253. St. Paschal 252. St. Patrick's Channel 167. St. Paul's Bay 292. St. Peter's, C. B. 146. St. Peter's, N. B. 65. St. Peter's, P. E. I. 182. St. Peter's Bay 227. St. Peter's Inlet 165. St Peter's Id. 174. St. Peter, Lake 307. St. Pierre 185, 214. St. Pierre d'Orleans 289. St. Pierre les Becquets 307. St. Placide, P. Q. 292. St. Roch-des-Aulnaies 253. St. Romuald, P. Q. 282. St. Rose de Lima 318. St. Shot's, N. F. 213. St. Simeon, 295. St. Simon 251. St. Stephen, N. B. 35. St. Sulpice, P. Q. 308. St. Therese 318. St. Thomas, P. Q. 253. St. Tite des Caps 287. St. Urbain 292. St. Valier, P. Q. 254. St. Vincent de Paul, 318. Salisbury, N. B. 72. Salmon Cove 201. Salmonier, N. F. 213. Salmon River 49, 71, 114. SaltMt.,C. B 167. Salutation Point 174. Sambro Id. 117. Sandwich Bay 225. Sandwich Head 227. Sandybeach 244. Sandy Cove 116, 112. Sandy Point 217. Sault a la Puce 284. Sault au Cochou 291. INDEX. 331 Sault au Recollet 818. Sault de Mouton 233. Scatari, C B. 150. Sc hoodie Lakes 35. Scotchtown, N B. 48. Scotch Village 93. Sculpia Point 214. Seal Cove, N. B 29. Seal Cove, N. F. 221. Seal Id. N. S. 124. Sea! Ids. 225. Sea-Trout Point 175. Sea-Wolfld. 169. Seeley's Mills 71. Segum-Sega Lakes 130. Seldom-come-by 210. Seven Ids., Lab. 232. Shag Id. 230. Shawanegan Falls 307. Shecatica Bay 230. Shediac 59, 60, 174. Sheet Harbor 132. Shelburne, N. S. 121. Shepody Bav 73. Shepodv Mt. 72. Sherbrooke 138, 132. Sherbrooke Lake 90. Shininiicas, N. S. 78. Ship Harbor 132. Shippigan Id. 63. Shoe Cove 211, 221. Shubenacadie 82. Sillery, P. Q. 280. Silver Falls, N. B. 22. Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, N F. 203. Sissiboo Falls 112. Skye Glen 168. Smith's Sound 209. Smoky, Cape 159. Sorel, P. Q. 308- Souris, P. E I. 182. South Bay, N. B. 40. South Mt. 84. South Oromocto Lake 38. Southport, P. E. I. 177. South Quebec 282. S.W Head 29. S. W. Miramichi 62. Spaniard's Bay 207. Spear Harbor 225. Spectacle Id. 120. Spencer's Id 103, 104, 106 Spencer AVood 280. Spiller Rocks 202. Split, Cape 104. . Split Rock, 31. Spotted Id. 225. Spout, The 197. Spragg's Point 42. Sprague's Cove 29. Springfield, N. B. 42. Springfield, N S R9. Springhill.N. B. 61. Spring Hill, N. S. 80. Spruce Id. 31 Spruce Lake 24. Sprv Bay 132. Stanley, N. B 50. Statue Point 303. Steep Creek 143. Stellarton, N. S. 136. Stewiacke 82. Stone Pillar 253. Storniont, N. S. 133. Strait of Barra 164. Strait of Belle Isle 220, 227. Strait of Canso 142. Strait of Northumberland 60, 174, 239. Strait Shore, N. F. 196. Sugar Id 50,51. Sugar-Loaf, N. B. 68. Sugar-Loaf, N. F. 200, 217 Summerside, P E I. 178. Suuacadie, C. B. 164. Sussex Vale, N. B. 71. Swaliow-Tail Head 29. Sydney, C. B. 150. Sydney Mines 152. Tableau, Le 303. Table Head 227. Table Roulante 243. Tabusiniac 61, 62. Tadousac, P. Q 299. Tangier, N. S. 132 Tannery West 319. Tantramar Marsh 79, 74. Tatamagouche, N. S. 81. Tea Hill, P. E. I. 177. Tedish, N. B. 59 Temiscouata Lake 58,295. Temple Bay, Lab. 227. Tennant's Cove 42. Thoroughfare, The 48. Three Rivers 307. Three Tides, P. E. I. 174. Three Towers, N. F. 211. Thrumcap Shoal 93. Tickle Cove 203 Tidnish, N. S. 78. Tignish, P. E. I 180. Tilt Cove 205, 211. Tilton Harbor 210. " Toad Cove 197. Tobique, N. B. 54. Tolt Peak 217. Tomkedgwick River 69. Topsail, N. F. 206- Torbay, N. F. 195, 200. Tor Bay, N. S. 134. Tormentine, Cape 174. Torrent Point 227. Tracadie, N B. 62. Tracadie, N. S. 139. Tracadie, P. E. I. 181. Tracadiegash 67, 239- Tracy's Lake 71. Tracy's Mills, 38. Traverse, Cape 174. Tremont, N. S. 89. Trepassey, N. F. 213, Trinity, N. F. 201. Trinity Bay 208, 201. Trinity, Cape 303. Trinity Cove 160. Trois Pistoles 251. Trois Rivieres 307. Trou St. Patrice 290. Trouty, N. F. 210. Truro, N. S. 81. Trvon. P. E I. 174. Tusket Ids. 125, 115. Tusket Lakes 115. Tweednogie, C. B. 148. Tweedside, N. B.38. Twillingate, N. F. 205. Ungava Bay 226- Upper Caraquette 66. Upper Gagetown 43. Upper Musquodoboit 82. Upper Queensbury 52. Upsalquitch River 69. Utopia, Lake 32. Van Buren, Me. 56. Vanceboro, Me. 38. Varennes, P. Q. 308. Veazie, Me. 89. Venison Id. 225. Vernon River 181. Victoria 53. Victoria Line 168. Victoria Mines 152. Virginia Water 195- Wallace Valley 80. Walrus Id. 231. Walton 106, 93, Wapitagun Har. 230. Wapskehegan River 54. Ward's Harbor 211. Washademoak Lake 47. Wash-shecootai 231 Watagheistic Sound 230 Watchabaktchkt 164. Watt June. 37. Waverley Mines 82. Waweig, N. B. 36. Welchpool,N B. 25. Wellington 179. Welsford, N. B. 38. Wentworth, N S. 80. West Bay, C. B. 165. Westchester, N. S. 80. Westfield, N. B. 41. West Isles 31. West Point 179. West Port, N. S. 117. West River 225. 332 INDEX. Weymouth, N. S. 112. Whale Cove 29. White Bay 221. White Haven 134. White Horse 31. White's Cove 49. Whycocomagh, C. B. 167. Wickham, 42, 47. Wlcklow, N. B. 53. Wiggins Cove 49. William Henry 308. Wilmot Springs 89. Wilson's Beach 25. Wilton Grove 210. Windsor, N. S. 91,101. Windsor June. 82, 93. Windsor Lake 395. Wine Harbor 133. Wiseman's Cove 221. Witless Bay, N. P. 197. Wolf River 231. Wolfville 107, 91. Wolves, The 25, 31. Wood Pillar 253. Woodstock 50, 37. Yarmouth, N. S. 114, 125. York Piiver 174. Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions. Acadian Exiles 108, 113, 131 D'Avaugour, Baron 246. Annapolis Royal, N S. 86. Dawson, Dr. J. W. 138. Anticosti, P. Q. 234 Aukpaque, N. B. 46. Avalou, N. F. 198. Bathurst, N. B. 65. Bay Bulls, N. F. 197. Bay of Chaleur 65. Beaubassin and Beausejour 78. Bic Island, P. Q. 250. Bras d'Or, C. B. 165. Br. beuf, Pere 266. Brest, Lab. 230. Campobello Id., N. B. 26. Canada, Lower 235. Canada, the name of 245. Canso, N. S. 144. Cape Breton 149. Cape Breton (old Province) 141. Cape Broyle, N. F. 197. Cape Ghatte, P. Q. 249. Cape Despair, P. Q. 241. Cape d'Or, N. S. 104. Cape Sable, N. S. 123. Cape Sambro, N. S. 118. Caraquette, N. B. 66. Carbonear, N. F. 208. Cartier's Voyages 193, 204, 245, 272, 293. Caughnawaga, P. Q. 319. Cham plain, Samuel de 273. Charlottetown, P. E. 1. 176. Chateau, Lab. 227. Chateau Bigot, P. Q. 280- Chateau Richer, P. Q 284. Chaumonot, Pere 279. Chezzetcook, N. S. 181. Chicoutimi, P. Q. .300. Clare Settlements, N. S. 113. Conception Bay, N. F. 206. Constitution and Guerriere 200. Dead Islands, N. F. 216. |Eastport, Me. 27. ! Esquimaux, the 226. iFerryland, N. F. 198. Fort La Hlvc, N. S. 119. Forts Lawrence and Cum- berland 78. FortMcductic, N. B. 52. Fredericton, N. B. 46. Fronteuac, Count de 262, 273. Gaspe, P. Q 244. Gilbert, Sir Humphrey 135, 193. Glooscap 19, 41, 102, 108, 120, 137, 144. Goat Island, N. S. 85. Grand Banks 199. Grand Lake, N. B. 48. Grand Manan 28. Grand Pre, N. S. 108. Guysborough, N. S. 134. Haliburton, Judge 92. Halifax, N. S. 99. Huron Indians 279, 289. Indian Lorette 279. Ingonish,C. B. 159. Esle aux Coudres 293. Isle of Orleans 288. Jemseg, N. B. 42. Jesuits, the 261, 266, 275, 281. King's College 92. Labrador 222, 223. Lachine, P. Q. 319. Lake St. John, P. Q. 301. Lake Utopia, N. B. 32. Liverpool, N. S. 120. Lord's-Day Gale 170, 153, 185. Louisbourg, C. B. 154, 149. Lunenbm-g, N. S. 118. Madawaska, N. B. 57. Cote de Beaupro 276. D'Aulnay and La Tour 19, Magdalen Islands 184. 87, 122. iMahone Bay, N. S. 128. Maugerville, N. B. 43. Micmac Indians 68, 147, 163, 244. Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. Miramichi District 63. Miscould., N. B. 64. Montreal, P. Q. 317. Moravian Missions 226. Murray Bay, P. Q. 295. New Brunswick 14. Newfoundland 187 , 201, 202, 204, 222. Norsemen, the 123, 204, 245. Nova Scotia 76. Oromocto, N B. 43- Passamoquoddy Bay 27. Penobscot Indians 39. PercJ, P. Q. 243. Pictou, N. S. 137. Placentia, N. P. 212. Pleasant Point, Me. 27. Port Latour, N. S. 122. Port Mouton, N S. 121. Prince Edward Island 172. Quebec 272. Red Indians 210, 218. Restigouche 69. Richibucto Indians 60. Riviere du Loup 296. Riviere Ouelle 252. Robervals, the 301. Robin & Co. 240. Sable Island 135. Saguenay River 298. St. Anne de Peaupr6 285. St. Anne's Bay, C. B 158. St. Augustin, P. Q. 306. St. Croix Island 34. St. Joachim, P. Q. 287. St. John, N. B. 19. St. John River 40. St. John's, N. F. 193. St. Mary's Bay 112. St. Paul's Bay 292. St. Paul's Island 160. St. Peter's, C. B.146. St. Pierre, Miq. lS'6. INDEX. 333 Scottish Migration 164. Sillery,P. Q-281. Sorel, P. Q. 308. Strait of Belle Isle 220. Sydney, C. B. 151. Sydney Coal-Mines 153. Tadousac, P. Q. 298, 299. Tilbury, Wreck of the 148. Trepassey, N. F 213 Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. Truro, N. S. 81. Ursulines of Quebec 265. Walker's Expedition 233, 241. Wallis, Admiral 100. Williams, Gen. 100. Windsor, N S. 92. Yarmouth, N. S. 114. Index to Quotations. Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 58. Baillie, T. 43. Ballantyne, R. M. 292. Beecher, Henry Ward 258. Boucher 292. Bouchette, R. 247, 278. Boug vinville 238. Bonnycastle, Sir R. 67, 195, 218. Brown, Richard 141, 154, 155, 157, 159, 166, 233. Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. Champlain 124 , 273 , 295 . Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 238,247,289,293,299,300. Cozzens, F. S. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 142, 147, 166. Cremazie. 0.247. Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. Be Costa, B.F. 28, 29, 30. De Mille, Prof 105. Dilke, Sir Charles 258, 259. Dufferin, Lord 237- Ferland, Abb6 232, 248, 283. Fiset. L. J. C. 247. Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. Gilpin, Dr. 134. Gordon, Hon. Arthur 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, 62, 67. Grey 247. Haliburton, Judge 90, 91, 109, 111, 113. Hallock, Charles 67, 78, 103, 126, 12 < ,128, 129, 130, 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301. Hamilton, 88. Hardy.Capt. 129,130, 131. Hawkins's Quehec. 256, 259, 261, 2(2. Heriot, George 279, 284. Hind, Prof. 232,233. ^^^ „„^ Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 281,302,303. Imray-s Sailing i)zrecfi'or7573, 158,169,248. Johnston,_Prof. J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 5(, JukesVprdf. J. B. 189, 195, 196, 216, 218. Kalm 305. Kirke, Henry 245. La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 305. Lalemant, Pere 249. Lanman, Charles 68. Le Moine, J. M. 258, 264, 280, 294. Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 86, 201. London Times 257, 298, 304. Longfellow, H. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. Lowell, R. T. S. 187. McCrea, Lt.-Col. 193, 195, 197. Marmier, X. 257. Marshall, C. 278, 286. Martin, M. 154. M'Gregor, John 19, 42, 117, 128, 166. Moore, Tom 184. 320. Moorson, Capt. 116, 118, 122. Murdoch, B. 75, 109. 122, 155. 156. Noble, Rev. L. L. 30, 91, 103, 141, 160, 189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 228. Novus Orbis 125. „ „ „„, Parkman, Francis 237, 245, 262, 266, 2(6, 279, 285, 288. Perley, M. H. 182. Rameau. M. 238, 277. Roosevelt, R. B. 66. Routhier, A. B. 252. Sagas of Iceland 123, 204. Sand, Maurice 186, 256. Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. Shirley, Gov. 274. Silliman, Prof 238, 257, 267, 277. Stedmau. R. H. 170. Strauss, 231 Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. Tach»5 251, 299. Taylor's Canadian Handbook 242, 248, 251 282 319 Taylor, 'Bayard 277, 291, 292, 298, 297, Thoreau, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, 270, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312. Trudelle 292. Voltaire 274. Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. Warner, Charles Dudley, 20, 25, 26, 84, 86, 91, 92, 95, 107, 138, 140, 158, 162, 165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. Whitburne, Capt 187. White, John, 278, 298, 303. Whittier, John G. 21, 65, 209, 224, 230. 334 INDEX. Index to Railways and Steamboat Lines. European and North American 37. Grand Trunk 305. Intercolonial 70, 78. New Brunswick 49. New Brunswick and Canada 33. Basin of Minas 101. Bras d'Or, 161. Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. Easfcport 25. Grand Lake 48. Halifax to Sydney 148. Labrador 224. Magdalen Islands 183. Moisic River (Labrador) 229. Newfoundland 188, 148. Northern Coastal (N. F.) 200. North Shore (N. B.)60. Pictou Branch 136. Prince Edward Island 177, 180, 182. Quebec and Gosford 255. Shediac Branch 59. Windsor and Annapolis 83. Passamaquoddy Bay 25, 30. Prince Edward Island 174, 175. Quebec and Gulf Ports 238, 60. Quebec to Cacouna 291. Richelieu (St. Lawrence) 305. Saguonay River 291, 297. St. John River 39, 51, 53. St. Pierre (Miq.) 185. Union (St. Lawrence) 305. Washademoak Lake 47. Western Outports 213. Yarmouth and HaUfax 117. Authorities Consulted in the Preparation of this Volume. The Editor acknowledges his obligations to the officers of the Boston Athenasum, the Parliament Library at Halifax, the Colonial Libraiy at Charlottctown, the Me- chanics' Institute at St. John, and the libraries of Parliament, of the Laval Uni- versity, of the Institut Canadien, and of the Literary and Historical Society, of Quebec. New Brunswick, with Notes for Emigrants ; by Abraham Gesner,M. D. (1847.) Geology of New Brunswick, etc. ; by Dr. Gcsner. New Brunswick and its Scenery ; by Jno. R. Hamilton. (St. .Tohn, 1874.) Account of New Brunswick ; by Thomas Baillie. (London, 1832.) Handbook for Emigrants to New Brunswick ; by M. H. Perley. (St. John, 1854.) Mount Desert ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) History of New Brunswick ; by Cooney. Nouveau Brunswick ; by E. Regnault* (Paris.) History of Maine ; by James Sullivan, LL. D. (1795.) History of Maine ; by W. D. Williamson. (2 vols. ; 1839.) Transactions of the Maine Historical Society. Letters from Nova Scotia ; by Captain Moorson. (London, 1830.) Travels in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; by J. S. Buckingham, M. P. Forest Life in Acadie; by Capt. Campbell Hardy. (London.) The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) Acadi I ; or A Month among the Bluenoses ; by Frederick S. Cozzens. (New York, 1859.) The Neutral French ; a Story of Nova Scotia. The Lily and the Cross ; by Prof. De Mille. The Boys of Grand Pre School ; by Prof. De Mille. The Clock-Maker ; by Judge T. C. Haliburton. The Old Judge ; by Judge T. C. Hahburton. The Pre-Columbian Discovery of America; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) Acadian Geology ; by J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S. (Halifax. 1855.) On the Mineralogy and Geology of Nova Scotia ; by Dr. A. Gesner. An Historical and Statistical Account of Nova Scotia ; by T. C. Haliburton, D. C. L., M. P. (2 vols. ; Hahfax, 1829) History of Nova Scotia, or Acadie ; by Beamish Murdoch, Q. C. (3 vols. ; Halifax, 1865.) A General Description of Nova Scotia. (Hahfax, 1823.) Account of the Present State of Nova Scotia. (Edinburgh, 1786.) INDEX, 335 A History of the Island of Cape Breton ; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., F. R. Q. S. (London, 1869.) Importance and Advantages of Cape Breton ; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 1746.) Letters on Cape Breton ; by Thomas Pichou. (London, 1760.) Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing ; by Ciiarles Dudley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) Prince Edward Island ; by Rev. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island ; by C B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 1861.) Travels in Prince Edward Island ; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) A Concise History of Newfoundland ; by F. R. Page. (London, I860.) History of the Government of Newfoundland ; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- don. 1793.) Catechism of the Hi.^tory of Newfoundland ; by W. C, St. John, (Boston, 1855.) Pedley's History of Newfoundland. Anspach's History of Newfoundland. Newfoundland in 1842 ; by Sir R H. Bonnycastle. |2 vols. ; London, 1842.) Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) The New Priest of Conception Bay ; by R. T. S. LowelL (Boston, 1838. ) Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols. ; London, 1842.) Geolo2;ical Survey of Newfoundland for 1873 ; by Alex. Murray, F. G. S. (St. John's, 1874.) After Icebergs with a Painter ; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1860.) A Voyage to Labrador ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) Notes on the Coast of Labrador ; by Robertson. (Quebec.) Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula ; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. G. S. (2 vols. ; London. 1863.) Sixteen Years' Residence on the Coast of Labrador ; by George Cartwright. (3 vols. ; Newark, 1792.) A Summer Cruise to Labrador ; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXII. History and General Description of New France ; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 vols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) Histoire de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot, (1609 ; Paris, 1866 ; 3 vols.) Cours d'Histoire du Canada ; by L'Abb<5 Ferland. Histoire de la Colonic Francaise en Canada ; by M. Faillon. (3 vols. ; Ville-Marie [Mon- treall, 1865-6). History of Canada; by F. X. Gameau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) History of Canada ; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) Novus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) Les Relations des Jesuits. Lower Canada; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) British Dominions in North America ; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) British America ; by John M'Gregor. "(2 vols. ; London, 1832.) La France aux Colonies ; by M Rameau. (Paris, 1859.) Le Canada an Point de Vue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) Hochelaga, or England in the New World ; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; New York, 1846.) The Conqviest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) The First Euglish Conquest of Canada ; by Henry Kirke. (London, 1871.) The Pioneers of France in the New World ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) The .Tesuits of North America ; by Francis Parkman. The Old Regime in Canada ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols ; Paris, 1866 ) Sketches of Celebrated Canadians ; by Henry J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865.) ' Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec. (Quebec, 1834.) Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 1858.) Decouverte du Tombeau de Champlain ; by Laverdiere and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.) Maple Leaves ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) 336 INDEX. Letters sur I'Amerique ; by X. Marmier. (Paris.) Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec ; by Prof. B. Silliman. (18^.) Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.) English America; by S. P. Day. (2 vols ; London, 1864.) Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols. ; London, 1829.) Western Wanderings; by W. H. G. Kingston. (2 vols. ; London, 1856.) Sketches of Lower Canada ; by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) The Canadian Dominion ; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) Five Years' Residence in the Canadas ; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols. ; London, 1824.) Sketches from America ; by John White. (London, 1870.) Travels through the Canadas ; by George Heriot. (London, 1807.) British Possessions ; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) Adventures in the Wilds of America ; by Charles Lanman. (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, 1856.) Pine-Forests ; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. BrefRecitet Succincte Narration de la Navigation faite en MDXXXV. et MDXXXVI. par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863 ) The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation ; by Richard Hak- luyt. (1589-1600.) Les Vovages k la Nouvelle France, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1632 ; Paris, 1830.) Relation dn Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Diereville. (Amsterdam, 1710.) Nouveaux Voyages, etc. ; by the Baron La Hontan. (1703 ; London, 1735 ) Relation Originale du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de D6couverte au Canada. (Quebec, 1838.) Voyage to Canada ; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763 ) Six Mille Lieues a Toute Vapeur ; by Maurice Sand. (Paris.) Greater Britain ; by Sir Charles Dilke. The Hudson's Bay Company ; by R. M. Ballantyne. Imray's Sniling Directions. (London ) Journal of a Voyage to the Const of Gasp; ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) The Lower St. Lawrence ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Le Chercheur de Tresors ; by Ph. Aubert de Gasp6 fils. (Quebec, 1863.) Chroniques Humeurs et Caprices ; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873 ) Les Anciens Canadiens ; by Philippe Aubert de Ga?pe. (Quebec, 1864.) L'Album du Touriste ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) The Blockade of Quebec ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) Journal of the Siege of Quebec ; by Gen. James Murray. (Quebec, 1871.) The Expedition against Quebec ; by " A Volunteer." (Quebec, 1872.) Chdteau Bigot ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1874.) A Chance Acquaintance; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) A Yankee in Canada; by Henry D. Thoreau. (Boston, 1862.) La Litt6rature Canadienne. (2 vols. ; Quebec, 1863-4.) Soirees Canadiennes. (2 vols ; Quebec, 1861.) Travels in New Brunswick; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Vacation Tourists for 1862-3, London.) Field and Forest Rambles ; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1873.) L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Explorations in British North America ; by Sir James E.Alexander. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces ; by R. B. Roosevelt. (New York, 1865 ) Fishing in American Waters ; by Genio C Scott. (New York.) The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) Fish and Fishing ; by H. V/. Herbert (" Frank Forrester "). (New York, 1850.) The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) Les Muses de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) Evangeline, a Tale of Acadie ; by Henry W. Longfellow. (Boston, 1847.) The Poetical Works of John G. Whittier. (Boston.) The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay ; by Charles Sangster (Kingston. ) Essais Poetiques ; by Leon Pamphile Le May. (Quebec, 1865.) Mes Loisirs ; by Louis Honors Frechette. (Quebec.) The Poetical Works of 0. Cremazie, J. Lenoir, and L. J. 0. Fiset. (Quebec.) s^aammmamKaaBammBmiim XQ unesLnui oirutjis, i uiitiucijjma , [n.Camp Street, New Orleans, La.; adi THE STEAMERS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE i STEAM NAVIGATION CO., make FOM MPS WEEKLY FROM QUEBEC, OVER THE ROUTE TRACED ON THIS MAP. :foi2 I^Tn^TE^ :CEI3 I3SrE^O:ES2yE^ii-'T'I03>T .. McLEOJ), Manager. Supt. Steamers to Prince Edward Island, ST. LAWRENCE, PRINCESS OF WALES, CAPT. EVANS, CAPT. CAMERON, Make Daily Trips between SXJMMERSIDE, I>,E.I., And POINT DU CHENE, NEW BRUNSWICK, Connecting at both places with Government Railways ; At tlie fbrmei* for CliarlottetoAvii and THE LATTER FOM ST, JOHN And all places in Canada and the United States. Passengers leave St John at 8 A. m. and arrive at Charlottetown at 8 p. M. Leave Charlottetown at 6.30 A. M. and arrive at St. John at 7.30 P. M. Also Leave Charlottetown for Pictou on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, connecting there with Railway to Halifax or Cape Breton ; returning from Pictou on arrival of Morning Train from Halifax on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. For further information apply to F. W. HALES, Secretary P. E. I. Steatn Navigation Co. Charlottetown. SIXTH THOUSAND NOW READY. THE COKRESPONDETSICE OF THOMAS CARI.YI.E AND RALPH WALDO EMERSON: 1834 TO 1873. With fine portraits]of Carlyle and Emerson, etched for this work. Edited by Charles Eliot Norton.' 2 vols. 12mo, gilt top, rough edges, $4.00 ; half calf, 3P8.00 ; half morocco, gilt top, uncut edges, $8 00. The International Review: "It may well be doubted whether the Anglo-Saxon world will have submitted to it for many a year to come such a literary treasure as is here presented." The Pall Mall Gazette : " It is pleasant to have this chapter added to the record of famous literary friendships." The Dial: " We shall have no passages from the lives of Carlyle and Emerson more precious." St. James''s Budget : "A more interesting and suggestive collection of letters has not been given to the world since the appearance of the correspondence of Goethe and Schiller," Lippincott's Magazine : " Their interest is incontestible and unbroken." The AthencBum (London) : " These two volumes shed a beautiful light upon a friend- ship as warm as it was singular. . . . They abound in passages of rare beauty. " The Atlantic Monthly : "The memory of a fine friendship has been added to the spir^ itual inheritance of the world." George Wh^liam Curtis, in Harper'' s Magazine : " None can read the record without receiving a blessing from its refinement and invigoration." The Independent: "The correspondence is so beautiful in itself and so rich in all ways as to relieve us even from the temptation to say that there is no other like it in the world." The Westminster Review : " A beautiful supplement and key to the lives and writ- ings of the authors ; a book not to be skimmed, but read again and again" The British Quarterly Review : "A very attractive book. We trust it will be widely read, as it deserves to be. " JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., BOSTON. ST. ImOUIS HOTULi^ St> Louis street^ QUEBEC. This Hotel, which is unrivalled for Size, Style, and Locality in Quebec, is open throughout the year for Pleasure and Business Travel. It is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the most delightful and fashionable promenades, the Governor's Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place d'Armes, and Durham and Dufferiii Terrace, which furnish the splendid views and magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so celebrated, and which are unsurpassed in any part of the world. The proprietors, in returning thanks for the very liberal patronage they have hitherto enjoj^ed, inform the public that the St. Louis Hotel has been thoroughly renovated and embellished, and can now accommodate aboiit 500 visitors, and assure them that nothing will be wanting on their part that will conduce to the comfort and enjojonent of their guests. The Russell Hotel Company, WILLIS BUS SELL, President. TIE "MfBfIS 10 V SEASON 1883. The Proprietor offers the Public a Summer Resort second to none in the Maritime Provinces, including all the natural attractions of a first-class watering-place, combined with the seclusion of a charming sea-side country home. Boating, Yachting, Bathing, Sea and River Fishing, can be had in the immediate vicinity of the house. The House itself is situated in the centre of magnificent grounds facing the sea, containing upwards of three acres of cherry, apple, and pear orchards, besides small fruits. There being such a great quantity of fruit, the cherry- trees are entirely at the service of the guests of the house. For terms, &c., address J. C. MOKKISON, Proprietor. OSGOOD'S Complete Pocket-Guide to Europe. REVISED AND ENI.AKGED EDITION OF 1883. 1vol. 32mo. With Six Maps. $1.50. This book describes the most attractive routes in Great Britain, France, Germany, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Sweden, Norway, and Russia. It includes fuller and better arranged details of routes, points, and objects of interest, fares, hotels. Currency, &c , than arc given in many guide-books of far greater proportions. The volume contains upwards of 500 pages of matter, but is only about three quarters of an inch in thickness. " Infinite riches in a little room." — New York Mail and Express. " Marvellously compact." — Philadelphia Press. " A gem of compiehensiveness, compactness, and good taste." — New York Tribune. " A perfect triumph in the way of condensation." — iT. Y. Commercial Advertiser. " Very satisfactory." — ZtYer-arz/ World. " A bright companion for the wayfafer who desires to see much and read little." — New York Home Journal. JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. A CHEAP AND DELIGHTFUL SUMMER TRIP. Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line. Boston to Charlottetown, P. E. I., STOPPING AT Halifax, Port Hawkesbury, C. B., & Pictou, N. S. The favbrite sea-going Steamships CARROLL (1,400 tons) and WORCESTER (1,400 tons) Capt. GEORGE H. BROWN, Capt. J. W. BLANKINSHIP, liCave Nickerson s Wharf, Congress St., Boston, For the above Ports, EVEEY SATURDAY, AT 12 O'CLOCK. These steamers connect with the NOVA SCOTIA railways and coast-lines at Halifax and Pictou, giving opportunities to visit the chief attractions of the Maritime Provinces. At Port Hawkesbury they connect with stages for all parts of the Island of CAPE BRETON, and for the renowned and beautiful BRAS D'OR IrAKES. From Charlottetown the tourist can visit any part of Prince Edward Island, by the trains of the new Government Railway. The Steamships of this Line have UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PASSENGERS. For tickets and further information, apply to WM. H. RING, or A. De W. SAMPSON, Nickerson's Wharf, Congress St. 801 Washington St. LEVE & ALDEN. < ^•^ » u^lvIERIO^lSr TOXJR,S. < *■* t Tourist tickets for individual travellers issued to all SUMMER AND WINTER RESORTS In America, embracing the MARITIME PROVINCES, SAGUENAY RIVER, QUEBEC, MONTREAL, WHITE MOUNTAINS, RANGELEY LAKES, MOUNT DESERT, THOUSAND ISLANDS, NIAGARA FALLS, &c., &c., By any known route and at Reductions from Ordinary Rates. Messrs. Levb & Alden are the General Agents for many first-class lines, and in addition issue their own tickets over a large number of railway and steamship routes, embracing the leading resorts and picturesque channels of travel which tourists wish to visit. The American Tourist Gazette, a handsome illustrated quarto monthly, may be had upon receipt of postage, by application in per- son, or by mail, at any of the Leve & Alden offices. Messrs. Levb & Alden are also the General Paseenger Agents of the ALLAN LINE IN THE UNITED STATES. CHIEF OFFICES: 207 BROADWAY, | ^^^ ^ORK, and Uptown Office : 5 UNION SQUARE, 1 ' 15 STATE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. NEW BOOKS OF TRAVEL. AMONG THE AZORES. By Ltman H. Weeks. 1 vol., square 16ino, with 25 illustrations, $1.50. " The volume is made up of a series of piquant slietches of the rich scenery and quaint life of the Azores, and is fully illustrated from photographs and original drawings." — Boston Commonwealth. SOUTH SEA SKETCHES. A Narrative. By Mrs. Madeline Vinton Dahlgeen. 1 vol., 12mo, $1.50. Callao, Lima, the islands and ports under the shadow of the Andes, Valparaiso, Santiago, and other beautiful cities of the South Seas. The New York Commercial Advertiser says : " The work is of extreme interest." JAPANESE EPISODES. By Edwaed H. House. 1 vol., 16mo, $1.00. " The dainty little volume of ' Japanese Episodes.' ... No man has had better opportunities of studying the character of ' the Britons of the Pacific ' than its author, who was for some years the publisher of a newspaper at Tokio, and is well known in this country as a gentleman of high literary ability. His excursions into the interior of the country have furnished material for some exquisite sketches and descriptions of scenery." — Saturday Evening Gazette. A PICKWICKIAN PILGRIMAGE. By John E. G. Hassard. 1 vol., small 16mo, $1.00. A series of chapters on the London which Dickens celebrated, the haunts of Mr. Pickwick, Mr. Winkle, the Wellers, Mrs. Gamp, and other immortals ; with excursions to Eochester and Dorking, and a boat voyage down the river Wye, by Eoss, Mormiouth, and Tintem Abbey. " A book to be thoroughly enjoyed." — Boston Transcript. " A charming little book." — New York Mail. " The little tome should have a place on the book-shelf next to that which records the wanderings of Winkle and Snodgrass." — Boston Budget. A TRIP TO ENGLAND. 1 vol., 16mo, with full-page illustrations by Joseph Jefferson, $2.00. " Here is England in a drop of honey ; here is the poetic side of the England that lies in the American imagination. If you cannot go and see for yourself, here is a vicar who has felt truly pic mresque and romantic England, and in a few words, with a very few suggestive to\r