^ \ l4 ^^1 HS W'-. 'LIBRARY OF CONGRESS^ f UNITED STATE8 OF AMERICA. ! EXTRACTS FROM A fOURNAL OF TRAVELS IN NORTH AMERICA, eONSISTING OF AN ACCOUNT OF BOSTON AND ITS VICINITY. By ALI bey, kc. TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL MANUSCRIPT. tainft that ti»n of good and bad was known. day _ .._tinc- EL KOUR-AN. BOSTON : PRINTED BY THOMAS BADGER, JUN 1818. r~r' :\^I. District of Massachusetts^ to wit : District Clerk's Office. B E IT REMEMBERED, that on the twenty-seventh day of February, A. D. 1818, in the forty-second year of the Independence of the United States of America. Thomas Badger, jiin, of the said District, has deposited in this Office the Title of a Book, the Right whereof lie claims as Proprietor, in the words following, to wit :— " Extracts from a Journal of Travels in North America, consistingf of an Account of Boston and its Vicinity. By AH Bey, &c. Translated from the Original Manuscript." The fifth part of the spoil that you shall gain from yottr enemies, apper- taineth to God. the Prophet, his parents, orphans, the poor, and to pilgrims that are in want ;— observe what is above ordained if ye believe in God, in what we have inspired into our servant^ and in the day wherein the distinc- tion of good and bad was known, EL KOUR-AN. In conformity to the Act of the Congress of the United States, entitled, "An Act for the Encouragement of Learning, by securing the copies of Maps. Charts and Books, to the Authors and Proprietors of such Copies, during the times therein mentioned;" and also to an Act entitled, '-An Act supplementary to an Act, entitled, An Act for theEncourayement of Learning, by securing the Copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the Authors and Pro« prietors of such Copies during the times therein mentioned : and extending the benefits thereof to the Arts vf Designing, Engraving and Etching His- tm-ieal and •ther Prints." JNO. W. DAVIS, Clerk, of the Dittritt of Massachusotts. AD VER TISEMEN'i \ THE Translator congratulates the public upou the arrival among us of the distinguished traveller whose Journal he here p-resents, done into English. The portrait of our country has never yet been correctly taken by any of the crowd of foreigners that have attempted it. The contemptible caricatures ^rawn by British tourists served the purpose for which th€y were designed — of deceiving the English people. They have served another purpose which was not intended. They have gone far toward des- troying the authority of British writers in generaJ, and of British travellers m particular. They have be- trayed a deep rooted national grudge, which although an indirect trihute to our country, has beeji met, it must be confessed, by somewhat Mercer feelings on this side txf the Atlamtic. French travellers have drawn more flattering, but scarcely better, likenesses. In short a faithful view of our country and ourselves by an impartial hand has long been a desideratum. Such an one we have reason to expect from the author before us — coming from a country not politically connected with ours — having no rival interests to serve — no national antipathy to gratify — we might (one would suppose) receive his representations with considerable confidence. A work of this description must be an invaluable bequest to a nation, incapable as it always is of seeing itself except by reflected light. National vanity is more respected than that of indi- viduals because of its aflinity to sentiments of patriot- ism. It is also of more universal growth. The Dej of Algiers excites his soldiers to battle by the recol- lections of their ancestors and the glory of their nation and name. And the Spaniard finds in the character of his country topics of proud complacency. But if this vanity is the parent of great exploits, it is also the source of national peculiarities. To present these peculiarities in true colours, in the perspective of the manners and character of a people — with a view t* qualify rather than extinguish that national feeling — i? the office of the traveller. In making the following extractSj the Translator hat been, guided as much by the practical nature of the information they contain as by their comparative value. He deems it proper to observe that he has nothing to do with the statements or speculations of the author, illhough he places the mirror before the town, he does not hold himself responsible for the correctness of its reflection. It remains to say a word as to the authenticity of this work. Upon this point the Translator will barely state, that the manner in which the manuscript came to his hands leaves no doubt on his mind respecting its au- thenticity. But after he was convinced that the Journal was authentic, he was not without scruples touching the propriety of making it public. He considered it unfair to snatch from a man the fruit of much labor, time and hazard. Besides the work appeared, from internal marks, not to have been intended for a Christian public. These scruples were only overcome by the considera- tion of the manner — not very creditable — in which our traveller came to this country, and his covert project thus happily detected. Still, however, the Translator disclaims all pecu- niary motive: — and he hereby advertizes Signior Ali. Bey or Mons. Desaleurs, or by whatever other name he may now be pleased to be known, that all the profits of this publication, after the necessary charger - are defrayed, shall be duly paid over to his order. January^ 1818. JOURNAL OF ALI BEY, ^c. CHAP. I. The Authors Introduction — His arrival — The Exchange Coffee-House — Boston. 8 March, I8I7. Praise be to God most great, the Lord of the worlds, the most mer- ciful, the most gracious, King of the day of judgment! Welfare and peace be to thee, O Mouhhammed, Prophet of God ! — here am I, Ali Bey ibn Othman Bey el Abassi, on the shores of this occidental hemisphere. Having visited the principal cities of Africa^ Asia and Europe, having performed my pil- grimage to the holy city, I resolved, in pur» Buit of the great project of my heart, to ex- plore this New World* 8 I arrived here yesterday morning, after a short but boisterous passage. We got into the outer harbor the evening before, but our eaptain thought it prudent not to come up to the town till the next day. Yesterday morning the sun rising clear presented the city in full view before us, with its glittering domes and spires and vanes and windows. We got early under weigh, and the wind being fair we foqi^d oui^^elves at once along- side of the wharf; passing in our way a multitude of little islands on some of which are forts and military works, and a pharos, of which I shall give a more minute account hereafter. This continent presents nothing remark- able to the view of the approaching navi- gator. The country as we drew near ap- peared barren and inhospitable, on account, probably, of the season ; for the reign of winter on these cold shores is not yet miti- gated. I noticed with my gliss, patches of buildings skirting the coast on either side of the city. By the advice of a fellow passenger, native of this city, I have taken lodgings in tlie Exchange Coifee-Hquse, apparently the principal hotel of the city — as far at least 9 as relates to bulk. It is a huge ill oou- structed edifice six stories in height aud a basement. Its numerous apartments with their various business, give it the appearance of a small city. In the centre of this build- ing is an octagonal area, over which is thrown a dome, whose glass pannels serve as a sky-light. Around this area, are cor- ridors at each story supported by twenty pillars. The eastern front is adorned with six Ionic pilasters of marble. This build- ing was evidently designed as a public ornament ; and yet it is placed at a distance from any principal street and embosomed in other buildings. Its ill planned, dark, and inconvenient rooms make one regret that so great expense and labor had not been better directed. Having devoted the early part of to-day to domestic arrangements, I sallied out about noon to take a view of the town. As it is my maxim to assimilate myself as much as possible to the people among whom I travel, to escape notice, I had assumed the Euro- pean costume before sailing from Cadiz ; And intending to pass as a native of France on this side of the Atlantic, I bespoke pas- sage for Mons. Desaleurs, by which nam* 10 my sfrvaiits are directed to address mn. Notwithstanding these precautions, I ob- served that I attracted notice as I passed Up the street, and the hurried paced citizens turned about upon me, as they brushed along, to take a second view. It is imp^s- «ible I believe for strangers in any city to conceal their character from the practised glance of the cit, let him assume never so much nonchalance or pass never so rapidly. This city is irregularly built. The build- ings are mostly of brick, and three or four stories high. The streets are generally ir- regular, and many of them narrow and dirty. I observed some however sufficiently wide and cleanly, and lined with spacious walks for foot people. This city seems to consist of nothing but shops, at whose windows innumerable sorts of wares are exhibited with a good deal of effect. On the west side of the town is an extensive opening or «quare, enclosed on three sides by buildings and on the fourth by water. This must be very beautiful when the season is mild and the trees and ground covered with verdure. I shall take occasion to mention this again. Boston is built on a tongue of laud almost surrounded by waiier. It is *stimated to ii contain about 40,000 inhabitants. Its streets of course do not show that bustle and stir which is to be seen in European cities of the first or second magnitude. It appears to be in a very flourishing condition — at least so I infer from the extensive improve- ments now in progress or recently finished. This however may be a fallacious appear- ance. Commerce is the life of this place 5 but commerce here as elsewhere is still lin- gering with the wounds received in the latt wars. it CHAP. II. Exchange Coffee House Reading Room — Ali Bey makes «n acquaintance — his account of the religious disputes in this country. One of the rooms in my hotel is devoted entirely to^news/ and is called by a slight metaphor, ^the reading room,^ This room is filled with high tables and desks on whicW are laid the newspapers and public journal* of this country and Europe as they are pub- lished and received. It was in this room that T first met a gen- tleman whose humanity and intelligence I shaU often have occasion to mention and will never be forgotten by me. As I was reading a Paris paper n' ar the file on which he was looking, he addressed me in French with some every day observation. I replied in the same language. E ch being com- municative we gr durJly brought on a con- versation of considerable len2;th. I invited him to my rooms and to dine with me. How delightful a thing it is to a stranger to find a person thus accessible and habitu- IS dly exercising the offices of humanity to- ward all of his species, without waiting for the cold formality of an introduction. He that never sojourned in a strange place cannot know this pleasure. This gentle- man took lodgings, I found, in this hotel, and though not a native of this city is per- fectly acquainted with its inhabitants, their manners and customs. He has been a tra- veller too as w ell as myself, having visited the principal nations of Europe. His polite- ness has in a measure supplied the want of letters of introduction, a vehicle of acquaint- ance adopted here in imitation of Europe. Of this I was deprived by my faith ; for what communion has Islamism with Chris, tianity ? Letters here are almost indispen- sable. I could not in this city as in Mo- rocco draw around me the pachas, fakirs and cadis by the splendor of my equipage or the length of my retinue ; nor is it con- formable to the customs of the place to send presents to the chief men as a prelude to acquaintance. My friend, (for such I have found him,) besides introducing me into the soi-disant fashionable circles of the town, has been of infinite service in unravelling the secret folds and reduplications of the 14 society and manners of the city— a speciesi. of knowledge which a stranger is late in acquiring. The suhject which is most directly con- nected with my great project,* and to which I shall therefore pay great attention, is the religious opinions and prejudices of this people. There appears to he a great divi- sion among the followers of the cross. Another prophet has arisen, who divides the suffrages of Christendom with Jesus Christ. At least so I conjecture from a pamphlet a bookseller put into my hands the other day, with this superscription, ^' Are you a Calvinist or are you a Chris- tian ?'' that is, are you a disciple of Calvin (the new Prophet,) or of Jesus Christ? I took an early opportunity to converse with my new acquaintance upon this sub- ject. He informs me that the Calvinists are not, as I imagined, a sect in opposi- tion to Jesus Christ ; but that they are called by that name in contradistinction from another class of Christians called liberals, * Our author frequently alludes to ' his great pro- ject' both in this anJ his other travels. What can this project be? — the conversion (as conjectured by some) •f Christendom to the Mouhhammedan faith? [Note hy Tr.] 15 ^liberales.'] The main point in dispute between them, if I understood him correcily. is whel:ker according to their book there are three Gods or one God, or what amounts to the same thing, whether Grod is three persons or one. The Calvinists maintain the former, the Liberals the latter opinion.. These parties are also called in allusion to their creed, Trinitarians and Unitari- a7is. They each bring arguments which convince themselves, from the same book and almost the same words. But said I does not this question belong to metaphysicks rather than religion? Yes, certainly, answered my friend. Be- sides it is so remote from any practical result, that the more rational look upon the deci- sion of it as unimportant, and can hardly conceive that men should dispute about it in earnest. The Unitarians compare the doctrine of the triyiity to that of transub- stantiation and other absurdities of the schools, and they confidently anticipate the time when this surviving relick of the dark ages shall share the fate of its fellows, and be consigned to the tomb of oblivion. The Trinitarians, on the other ban d, re- gard it as the pivot of their religion, upon 16 which tlie doctrine of atonement, satisfac- tion, and divers other dogmas equally im- portant depend. But these sects, he continued, have various other points of divergence. The creed of the one is generally esteemed either absurd, puerile or pernicious by the other. What, say the liberal party, can be more unnatu- ral, more abhorrent to our feelings thau the belief that mankind are created viciout and depraved, and that infants consequently are morally guilty ? What can be a greatey imputation upon God ! And what can be more pernicious in practice than the belief in miraculous regeneration, election, perse- verance, &c. as technically explained by the followers of Calvin ? The Calvinists in their turn charge their opponents with want of zeal in the cause of religion, with looseness and skepticism, and of what they term latitudinarianism. Between these parties, as between most contending parties, the truth is probably divided. They take different views of the subject they paint, and the picture of each is partially incorrect. TheCalvinists are led by their peculiar tem- perament to draw mankind in dark colours. 17 They would make ns believe that we are t very wicked and worthless race of beings, deserving of all manner of punishment-which it should seem we are now undergoing ; for they insist upon it that there is nothing in this world but sorrow, misery and sin. The bther party are less saturnine — they look upon man to be a pretty clever sort of a being naturally, with many good and some bad principles in his nature, either of which he is at liberty to cultivate, and which he does cultivate according to the force of temptations and the predominance of a good or a bad education. As to the world, aL though disfigured with much misery and vice, they still think that the balance is in favor of happiness and virtue. And they do not see the advantage or propriety in painting the world or its inhabitants in darker colours than truth requires. Much less allowable do they deem it to draw the character of the Almighty according to the gloomy imaginations of men, without regard to revelation. Although I am a mere spectator of this pious warfare, not being arrayed with either belligerent, yet it may be proper to cautioiii you against relying on my judgment without £8 making allowance for the lee- way of preju-^ dice. The most weighty objection to the Cal- vinistic system is, as I have ever conceived, the abridgement of free inquiry which it brings with it. If it is competent to one man, or any number of men, to decide upon doubtfiil points, not only for themselves but for others, and to require a belief in their decision, — where is freedom of inquiry ? If they have a right to construe one book for us, they may extend that right to all books ; and if they are infallible in religion, they may ere long claim universal infallibility. Besides, by tlie adoption of this system religious knowledge would become station- ary, and we in the nineteenth century, in- stead of following the liglitis struck out by classical research and biblical criticism, R)?ust bend our necks implicitly to the yok« of Calvin and Athanasius, The system of education adopted by this sect is in my opinion radically wrong — to train up youth to a particular theory, to in- culcate certain dogmas, and to put no books into their hands but such as support those dogmas ; what is this but io turn the key of knowledge on inquirers for truth ? Thi*^ 1« method may make zealous partizans and bigoted polemicks, but it is little calculated to make enlightened and pious Christians. But these are not the only objections to Calvinism. Its teachers instead of taking the lead of the age, actually fall in the rear ;— in all that relates to taste, manners, feelings and information, they r.re at least a century behind the rest of the world. They come to us in the temper of another age, when metaphysicks were in vogue. And their theology has never yet been cured of that epidemick. They still ring the changes on those obsolete and abstruse subjects to au- diences little able to comprehend them, — while the rest of the world lias grown prac- ticalj and is returning to common sense^ both in religion and philosophy. This error of the Calvinists is not how- ever peculiar to them. Ali Bey, the cele- brated traveller, mentions a similar propen- sity in Mussulmen to intermingle metaphy- sical subtilty with theology, and to substi- tute refinements and jargon for the weightier matters of practical religion and morality. Have you read the travels of Ali Bey, sir? I of course answered in the affirmative a little disconcerted;, which however I be- so lieve he did not notice. He then went on to pass a high encomium on my former jour- nal, expressing astonishment at the variety of learning which he was pleased to say I displayed, not however without some affec- tation of knowledge, &c. &c. This charge was new to me 5 but I was obliged to assent to all. He even discussed the reality of the character in which I travelled ! I soon took an opportunity to divert him from a subject so unpleasant, and to recal him to our former topic. But have the liberals avoided the shoals on which their adversaries run aground ? Yes, sir, they have escaped those shoals. But alas ! common sense has much to wres- tle with before it can settle the vibrating scales of truth and error ! The liberal party give the utmost liberty to private judgment and free inquiry. They inculcate Chris- tianity as a practical religion — a system of morality and piety. Their teachers en- deavor to keep pace with the rest of the world, to adapt their instruction to the present state of society, and the taste and feelings of their audience — avoiding meta- physical jargon on the one hand and melan- cholic bigotry on the other. They think, 31 since Christianity lias become respectabl* and the condition of its professors comfort- able, that they are warranted in assuming a corresponding cheerful countenance and voice ; and in laying aside the quaint lan- guage of puritanism^ and the lugubrious tone of primitive Christians. All this is very well. — But every revolu- tion tends to extremes. And the sun of truth has always had and always will have to struggle with the fog of human passions. You will not be surprised then when I tell you that the liberal party have not steered entirely clear of the quicksands. They, have not used their liberty as not abusing it, with care not to make it a stumbling block for their brethren. Nor can it be concealed that they have given some colour to the charge of levity and skepticism in holy things. ' Vanity of vanities all is van- ity;' — " this is not true !'" saith ow?' preach- er, not judging from consciousness probably. So the sentiment is correct no doubt ^ that there is nothing true but Heaven ;' but could it not be inculcated in a better way than by reciting a popular song from the desk ? And it may be very entertaining and even instructive to hear a judicious critique upon the writings of an eminent author ; but could not a teacher of religion take a more suit- able time than the Sabbath for such a com- munication? If this is not the conduct of a sincere and conscientious Christian who has a tender regard for the feelings of his fellow men, neither is it the part of a pru- dent man or substantial partizan. The folly of shocking unnecessarily any general prejudice, much more of loosening the rev- erence for holy things, is so obvious ont "Would suppose as not to escape the con- sideration of the most infatuated. But fortunately no religion is answerable for the passions and follies of its adherents. Vanity and ambition are not peculiar to any sect, and furnish evidence against the persons in whom they appear, not against their opinions. There will always be in every party bold and aspiring geniuses, who to be conspicuous will step forward of their contemporaries, without regiirding personal obloquy or the interest of their sect. Upon the whole, it is impossible to view either of these contending parties with entire satisfaction. If the austerity of one offend« us, we cannot shut our eyes to the want of solemnity in the other. In avoiding the quaint and fanatical language imputed to tbe^ teachers of that sect, those of the other com- mit as great a fault when they couch their prayers and discourses in a novel and un- natural phraseology, and reject the simple and expressive language of scripture. Take the following extract as an example, from the works of one whose memory they justly delight to honor. "It [charity] is that love which, as the apostle says, is kind and forbearing, which envieth not, which is not vain or proud, which doth not behave itself unseemly or with indecorum, but consults the feelings of others, which seeketh not its own advan- tage/' &c. Now this may be an ' improved version,^ but it is certainly far inferior in pathos and expression to the old text which long ac- quaintance has endeared to us and rendered venerable. It w ill require, I think, about one age more to bring these parties together ; — for one to arrive at, and the other to return to, the goal of truth. By that time the tempo- rary evils will have passed away that at- tended the first couching of the mental eye. ^ What is inow called innovation will then S4^ be establishment. The reverence for the scriptures and the authority of religion will then be re-established — if indeed they were ever detached or shaken. And then shall the world see clearly to collect what results to truth from the mighty decomposition of ancient and modern prejudice and error I While my friend was giving this interest- ing account, I could not but reflect how soon mankind get bewildei^d when they leave the plain paths of the true faith for the defiles of infidelity ! But I recollected the Wehabites and humbled myself in the dust. Alas, that the followers of the Prophet will be so much like Christians ! CHAP. III. Jili Bey attends a rout — His viezas of the ladies — Their manners — Dress-— Beauty — Education — The conduct of the gentlemen^ 4'C. April 1817. A few evenings ago, I at- tended what is here called a fashionable rout. Several hundred cards or tickets of invitation were said to have been issued, and more than a hundred I should think, obeyed the summons. When I arrived, most of the company was already collected. I was met in the passage by the master of ceremonies who led me into the drawing room, which was lined with ladies, and con- ducting me up its whole extent, introduced me in due form to Madame, the lady of the house. He then discharged me, to attend to others. After coffee and cake had been duly pass- ed around, all hands began to prepare for the solemnities of the evening. The rooms were cleared for dancing or spread with ta- bles for such as chose cards. I declined at first taking part in either, because I wanted S(5 an opportunity to reconnoitre. I according- ly took a view of the several apartments : — in one was music and dancing, in others were gentlemen and ladies at whist, back- gammon, &c. ; here a group of men talking upon political subjects ; there an unbroken file of ladies who did not find partners ; in one corner two or three gentlemen talking apparently in private ; in another quarter is stationed a corps of observation, taking a survey of the dance, and criticising the looks, dress, dancing, &c. of the rest of the com- pany. When I heard some of this body admiring or condemning the dress of one lady, the face or foot of another, the figure or dancing of a third, I noticed the objects of their remarks to ascertain how far my ideas corresponded with theirs. For my own part I saw enough to admire in tlie features and complexion of the ladies, but very little in their dancing. They are cer- tainly handsome; — their well turned oval features, their ruddy complexion, mellow eye and sprightly air would enrapture the most phlegmatic, if they were not, as in this (: Their opinions and examples must always have a prevailing in- fluence with their fair counterparts in a society constituted as this is. Do they alw ays give that preference to intelligent and well informed females which they deserve ? without regard to personal attractions or superficial accom- plishments. If the conduct of your gentle- men last night is a fair specimen, I should infer that the ladies are not altogether with- out excuse. You are right, sir — and this in mitigation I very readily allow, as far as it will go. And I am willing to pity rather than con- demn that penchant of our fair co-ordinates, that gives to fops and coxcomhs their unde- served influence. But my animadversions do not contemplate the young ladies them- selves so much as their parents and gov- ernantes. But for parents and boarding school mistresses to trick off their daughter* and pupils with such a heartless, unsubstan- tial education as — ^learning to draw a little^ to embroider, to dance and play upon a piano — with the balaiice in novel reading, and in that chrysalis state to palm them upon men of isense as their meet companions — wliy it is afi^aud on individuals and an imposition on the public. Tbis conduct is criminal in all, but in those parents who have had the benefit of a good education themselves and of course know its value, it is doubly wicked and cruel. But it may be said that music and drawing and such ^ fashionable accom- plishments' have a social tendency, and fit young women for society. To this the common answer is conclusive — nothing is so gocial as a cultivated mind. Who has not felt the glow kindled by the coming together of informed and reflecting minds ? Who ever knew such a meeting unsocial ? On the con- trary w ho has not been so unfortunate as to come in contact with persons whose crude and unformed ideas rendered tlieir presence a desert, and their intercourse scarcely better than that of quadrupeds. Indeed those, who make this plea for the fine arts, as consti- tuting a young lady's education, might ai well contend that the society of fiddlers and dancing masters is preferable to that of edu- cated gentlemen. Certainly this sort of edu- cation does not fit a person for conversation ; which is the highest prerogative of society — this your own experience has just proved. And it may be fairly said that as much as is add- ed to the toes and fingers of ladies versed in the art and mystery of thrumming on pianos, and taking rigadoons is so much taken from the tongue and the brain. Do not suppose, however, that 1 would have them neglect these lighter accomplishments entirely ; nor need they, and still have ample leisure for solid acquiremeius. But 1 would have them early and practically impressed with the importance of information and a taste for solid reading. Instead of their present frothy education that begins and ends with Miss Malapert's, whose mother " tutored her young one To turn out her toes like the ladies in London." I would have mothers and governantes fit the objects of their care for the practical du- ties of life, by regulating their mhids to sober application, by pointing out to them the ob- jects most worthy of their attention, and in- culcating a taste for the retired pleasures of mental employment. Novels and works of imagination they might regard as dessert to their more substantial repast. If they were tau2;ht music, it should be select and chaste ; but should not be permitted (as they 87 Jiow are) to follow the insidious track of a Moore to tiie contiiies of delicacy. Such an education would iit young women for wives and mothers — as nature designed them. We should then have a wife a mental companion^ who would ^joy in our joys and sorrow in our sorrows ;' not a hypocliondriack^ w ay- ward, spoiled chikl to fill our house alter- nately with company and gloom, dissipation and melancholy. If such an education w ere common, marriage, instead o" deterring the prudent by the hazard of drawing something worse than a blank, would become safe, in- viting and satisfactory. But now the rash votary of matrimony may thank his stars if he is fortunate, and not his own discernment. He trusts indeed to the blindest chance. For in the present state of society, it is morally impossible that he should be much better acquainted v/ith the disposition or mental qualities and acquirements of the. fair objects of his choice, than if she were brought to him for the first time on the wedding day conceal- ed in a basket, like the brides of I'angier. But this system of mis-education is, I fear, too fashionable, and chimes too well with the frivolity of that sex, and the silly part of our own, ever to be eradicated. At least 38 1 have long since despaired of seeing in mj day female education conducted on sound and rational principles^ mucii less do I ex- pect to reap its genuine fruits. Those fe- males who happen to be better educated than the mass of their sex will for some time yet, I fear, countenance a vulgar objection by not avoiding the dangers of a little learning, pedantry and eccentricity. This however they would doubtless out- grow when infor- mation becomes as general and as much a matter of course with that sex as with ours. What opinion did you form of the manners «f our citizens from what you saw^ last even- ing? A pretty favourable one, sir — at least more so than I had expected. The ladies appear- ed best. Less polished, however, than those you meet in Europe ? Yes sir, but their modesty or diffidence, [mauvaise honte] rendered them interesting without being awkward or erabariassed. Some few, however, seemed aifected, others assured, [assures] and most wanted some of the ease and 2:raceful diirnitv of the ladv. fj Of «/ In the gentlemen there was less to ap- prove — for unless a chief-clerk-and-cockney ^9 sort of manners arc indicative of gentlemen v I should doubt the right of most of those I saw to that appellation. They did not ap- pear to know the ditTerence ])etween ease and impudence, and hit one in awkwardly aiming at the other. Their self-importance was so ill established in their own minds, that to put it beyond a doubt, they assumed a variety of unnatural and supercilious airs^ little in unison with the dignified, unassum- ing, but conscious address of a gentleman. This opinion, so unguardedly and can- didly expressed, excited a smile in my friend. He said, however, that it coincided with his own, drawn from a much more thorough ac= quaintance. 40 CHAP. IV. AH Bey attends a Caucus — His Account of our Political Disscntions— Our Lazvs— State of Soaeiy — The The- atrz. 8 April. Last evening I attended what is here called a Caucus, that is, a public meet- ing of citizens to discuss political subjects and canvas the merits of their rulers. This meeting was held in a large hall which was very crowded and badly lighted. The dis- cussion was not very interesting to me, turn- ing mostly on local or personal topics. Thos« who took part hi the debates were generally young men — their seniors either did not at- tend the meeting, or did not take much in- terest in the business. Their speeches al- though nominally extemporaneous, were in fact very studied and formal — some however were considerably spirited and glowing. Some of the speakers displayed very credit- able pow ers of declamation, and they did not aspire to the higher regions of eloquence. 41 Their prevailing fault appeared to me to consist in not appearing io feel their subject, and in straining ever and anon to say some- thing smart, w^ith a view to applause — which in truth was dealt out to them very liberally, by clapping hands, stamping, huzzaing, &c. They did not appear to come to any prac- tical result after alL And I was surprised to find all the speakers coincide in their opinions ; till my friend informed me that this is merely an exparte meeting ; for there is another large party that hold a separate consiiUation, These parties disagree upon certain political questions, and have viewed each other in times past with a good deal of animosity. This division into parties is not confined to this city — it extends throughout the country, and has been the cause of much injustice and mischief It is indeed a serious off- set against the liberty which this people^ boasts. Among the many bad consequences sf these dissentions, their effect on the moral principle is the most melancholy and most disgracefaL 1'hey debase tlie feelings and pervert the judgment. You can scarcely conceive, says my friend, the hardihood ef depravity that men betray when acted upoE. 4S} by these disseiitions and the passions they generate. It frequently liappens that men of talents and reputation appear utterly callous not only with regard to integrity and prin- ciple, but even to shame. Their opinions they regard as a commodity of traffic that may be bartered with as little detriment as other commodities ; and they do not balance long about putting them off when they stand in the way of their ambition or interest. This conduct and these feelings could only escape contempt and disgust when the public mind is in a state of excitement ; and their prevalence in any country is a blot on the national character. It is but justice however to state that, although instances of this want of principle are disgracefully numerous among us, there are many honourable in- stances of good feelings and integrity which neither the neglect of friends nor the allure- ments of enemies could overcome. [Our authors informant liere proceeds to illustrate his precefling observations by personal examples, giv- ing" a more minute account of our political squabbles and tergiversations — he then draws a short sketch of the character and comparative merits of the two great parties that have divided the country — all which for 48 obvioua reasons the translator has thought proper to omit.] These details were very interesting to me, although not so closely connected witii my great project as the account of their religious disputes. Notwithstanding the regrets of my friend, and the evils he had ponrtrayed, it is very evident that these hahitual disputes are on the whole beneficial, and perhaps indispen- sable to the preservation of liberty. They give health and vigour to the political body. A mere spectator would apprehend prior to experience that this self-governed people would look upon office as a burthen^ and as soon as the novelty was gone, would regard the government with too much indifference to preserve it from dilapidation. But the ambition kindled by these disputes infuses like hope, animation into every thing it touches. And the fact turns out to be — and it is a remarkable phenomenon — that the most obscure and laborious offices in the country are sought with avidity. Ambition resembles hope in another respect — it is commonly unfounded in reason or common sense. Else why should men crave offices 4^ wliicli cost them a large part of their earn- ings, considerable time and trouble, and the sacrifice of much private enjoyment — and all this for what ? why, for a little village dis- tinction, or in the higher orders for fume, if you please! Is this an adequate object? The desire of fame has been very erroneous- ly termed ' the last infirmity of great minds.' A mind must have very equivocal claims to greatness that has not out-grown this infir- mity, ludeed its very existence is inconsist- ent with greatness of mind ; inasmuch as it implies a conscious dependance, a reaching after extraneous support. A really great mind will not humlde itself to inquire what the opinion of the million is, much less will it deign to appear before its bar or abide its decree. In a free country the best clue to the genius of the people is probably derived from tlieir laws. As this species of knowledge is the primary motive of visiting a country, 1 have studied with some attention the laws of the Americans, particularly tliose of this state, which are all printed and collected in vol- umes — how much better than to be left like those of Musselman countries ! 15 What strnck me as most remarkable, was the enormous and confused mass of laws that has accumulated already, and the government is not forty years old yet ! — Almost every subject has at one time or another come under the purview of these lawgivers. Among other things, matrimony has not escaped notice. The manner of transacting this business is very minutely prescribed. And a man is prohibited from procuring more than one wife at once ! And this prohibition is scarcely thought a hard- ship by this free people ! so powerful is habit. This legislative cacoethes appears to be epidemic [^maladie dit jpays']^ and in 1804 it arrived to a prodigious height. Not saU isfied with the previous restraints and limi- tations imposed upon marriage, the law- givers, undertook to control over the pre- liminary attachments between the sexes, and to subject the most distant indications of affeetions to their inspection. With this view they made a law that all ' hearts and CHEEKS* should be inspected' by aa * This is a gross or wilful blunder. If Signor AU Bey had looked further than the marginal index, he 46 officer of the government. By an anotIle^ law, the use of 'imagery^ h forbidden, — • This is probably tbe reason that this coun- try has produced no better poets. Another law prohibits Dancing.* This accounts for the people's dancing so ill, which I have already noticed in another place. In another place the lawgivers betray their sentiments as to the relative impor- tance of religion and learning, by the fol- lowing classification : '^ An act for the en- couragement of literature, piety and morali- ty and the useful arts and sciences.'^ Pie- ty it seems is only second to literature, and morality quite in the back ground ! This is not so in the Mussulman code. The observations of my friend respecting the ladies, appear to have caused him a good deal of compunction. He has taken several occasions to recur to the subject, and to mollify his former animadversions. He cautions me not to be prejudiced before I would have avoided such an unaccountable mistatc- ment.^— 7V. * This is also a mistake. We have no law forbid- ding dancing, but we have one that makes it penal in an Innholder to allow dancing in his tavern. — Tr, 47 am able to judge from personal acquaint tance. Yesterday he introduced the sub- ject again. I fear I libelled the fair sex in our late conversation. But you must make due al- lowance for exaggeration. VVe are apt to be unreasonable in expecting from girls of fifteen or sixteen, a maturity of mind and ripened reflection much above their years, and above what we expect from our own sex at that age. And when we are disap- pointed because we expect too much, we give them credit for less than is their due^ and impute the effects of youth to a bad education. To appreciate correctly the female cha racter, we should take into view the pecu- liar situation in which civilized society has placed that sex. Without the inducements to exertion that take the strongest hold of men — wealth and fame — -looking forward to matrimony as at once their goal and asy- lum — it is neither strange nor unnatural that their minds should be moulded to their (^e tination. It is n'either strange nor un- n ^iral that they should bend their atten tion to those minute and to u^^^ trivial attain- ments that are found, by experience, most to advance them in the only field open t« them. And so long as men are pleased with toys and play-things^ they cannot blame females for giving to their minds the most current stamp. Let reformation begin atjiome. Let gentlemen learn to value and respect females of sense and information — let them look upon a cultivated mind as a sine qua non to that connexion which is dearer than life ; and as supplying the w^ant of mere personal attractions — and they may rely upon it their opinions and example will not be lost upon fcheir fair correlatives. Eutj said I, is it true that women have not some of the inducements to exertion that we have? What prevents them from tilling the field of le.iruing— and from reap- ing its harvest, fame, like Mesdames De Stael, Montague, Genlis, and divers others our contemporaries ? It is true that most of these have trod the roseate paths of imagi- nation ; but what debars them from dis- tinction in history, philosophy and the sci- ences ? That there is no physical impediment, I admit, replied my friend, allowing (what I am disposed to allow) the equality of the mental powers of the sexes. And a maa 11) more sanguine than myself might anticipate a time when the fair sex, if they do not monopolize, shail possess their due shar^ of learning, and of its offspring celebrity. But I am far from thinking fame desirable, even for a man, much liss for a woman. It is not with a view to that, that I desire to see a better system of education adopt- ed — one that shall fit fern iles, not for pub- lic, but private life, and give them resour- ces for happiness within themselves, pure and perennial, which the world can neither give nor take away. An education of that kind would furnish useful and liberal em- ployment to minds that are now a prey to idleness and ennui, or ignobly busied in gossiping, scandal and cabal. Bat there are many obstacles to such an education, and no where more than in this town. The frivolity and fastidiousness of fashion, ever at w^ar witli common sense, have here rendered the condition of females more helpless aud compassionable than it is naturally. Those who have beauty, youth, and above all, ivealth, have a reti- nue of admirers to render th^m vain by flattery — those who want these essential accessaries are given up to neglect, without 5 5t any regard to their mental qualities or ac- quirements. Such is the justice of our sex ; and yet we expect females to cultivate their minds; to he neglected, ' to hlush unseen.' In this town all these agencies operate with a most powerful purchase. Females hardly arrive to puherty hefore they are called old maids, or in the cockney language which you heard on one occasion are placed on the ^ old list, ^ If the poetical division is applicable to that sex, it may be truly said that in this town they pass three of their seven ages from fifteen to twenty-five. From fifteen to seventeen, it is the timid and art- less miss; from that time to twenty-one, the conscious, all-conquering belle ; from that age to twenty-five, ^ a beauty waning and distressed' young lady. After twenty-five they are regarded as confirmed old maids and placed by common consent in the van of the forlorn hope. In consequence of this injurious arrange- ment, girls, as soon as they get into the it teens, are haunted with a fearful looking for of compulsive celibacy and ideal miseries. It may be doubted whether the horror of ©Id maidism is not as deep rooted and as violent as what nature ever felt for 4% vacuum. This st \te of things must be regretted by every friend of humanitv. But those only who have witnessed its effects know the extent of its cruelty and mischief — who have seen young women whose minds are just coming to maturity^ crowded out of circles th it they would adorn and animate, to make room for frivolous children, — who have watched the silent operation of anxiety and neglect on a lively and ingenuous mind^, and marked its i,'radual transition from gdety and animation, to placid dejection and cheerless indifference. Such a current of adverse circumstances might break down a mind of firmer texture than is generally at- tributed to females. The lonesomeness and destitution v/hicii they must feel when thus passed over by the world, might weigli down the most buoyant spirits and induce them to exclaim with Richard, ^* I shall despair ! — there is no creature loves me — aud if I die — no soul will pity me !'' It is then that females feel the need of educa^ tion, and let me aid of religion — of a cul- tivated mind and well directed feelings, to protect them from their last enemy, them aelves — to presevvo them from the knawiiigii of disappointment^ and the gloomy workings of misanthropy. A few evenings ago I was persuaded by my friend to attend the theatre. Tiie house was thin and the performance quite indiffer- ent. This I did not regret, — for I iiave al- ways been of opinion that theatrical repre- sentations and their inseparable concomitants have a most pernicious influence on tlie morals of society. It w^as therefore with secret pleasure that I heard my friend anim- advert on what he called the mismanage- ment of the theatre, and on the Bostonian taste for horse shows and still- vaulting iu preference to the refined entertainments of Die stage. My opinion of the tendency of theatres was not altered by what I saw this night. The play (the Belle's Stratagem,) svas by no means one of the most licentious. It is even less exceptionable than most of the plays of the great and justly admired Shakspeare, whose faults are forgiven in favour of his exquisite beauties, his pathos and knowledge of the heart. But the greater part of his writings are but tolerated in the closet — ^they would (at least they ought to) disgust in representation. And in the closet 5S it appears to me that they are to be tolerated only by our sex and married females, for who would open Othello to virgin eyes, un- less with design to enlarge their ideas and pollute their imagination ? The play which I saw performed is cer- tainly less offensiv e on the score of indeli- cacy than those older writings. Yet even this is calculated to do a good deal of mis- chief. It has enough of libertinism in its characters, and of licentiousness in its allu- sions, to soil a pure and inexperienced mind. Although to the pure all things are pure, who would wish to expose their daughters or sisters at the ripening age of twelve or fourteen to the loose conversation of rakes and coxcombs, to hear them talk of their mistresses and boast of their amours ? They might about as well be sent to a brothel. Yet such was the main scope of the play^ and its predominant impression on the mind^ and such were a considerable part of the au- dience that 1 saw in the boxes that night. And while I contemplated their tender age and as yet untarnished minds, 1 sighed — I reprobated their parents' rashness, and curs- ed the institution that spreads such a snare. It is an institution, praised be God f peculiar * 5 54- to Chrisiiau countries, which the pure doc- trine of the Prophet (as soon as it prevails) will sweep from the face of the earth ! I have said nothing of the transactions of galleries and green room — nor need I say any tiling. Enough is heard and seen before the curtain to doom the stage and all its ap- pendages. il.-^ CilAP. X* Account of the Atheneum — King^s Chapel — Mall — State-House. June. I went with my friend a few days since to view the public institutions of the city. Among others, the Atheneum is pe- culiarly deserving of notice. It consists of one of the most extensive libraries in the country. The books are not allowed to be carried out of the apartments of the library ; in which, however, they may be consulted with every convenience, and in whose al- coves readers may be seen at almost all hours of the day. Besides many rare and valuable books, I was shewn a collection of prints of the chef d'oeuvres of European artists, some of which are scarcely inferior to the originals. On the tables of this in- stitution are to be found most of the period- ical journals of this country and Europe. This is certainly an admirable institution; * See the contents of the intervening Chapters at •he end of the volunie, Tr 56 and'its influence is said to be very beneficial in diffiising knowledge and promoting a taste for reading. After leaving this interesting seat of learn- ing, we passed, on our m ay to the Mall, a venerable antique looking church, with a portico supported by twelve huge plastered cylinders, or Ionic pillars. This is now called ' Kini!;^s ChajieP — my friend told me — its name having been lately changed from Stone Chapel, The former (said he) was its originnl name ; but it Wi;s thought to savor too strongly of Monarchy in the pa- triotic times of the revolution. It was ac- cordingly christened 'Stone Chapel.' It is doubtful whether the first change or the late restoration indicates tlie greater wisdom. The finest part of the city beyond com- parison, is the Mall and the Common. The Mall is a colonnade of venerable trees, whose branches interlock and form a rich arcade ; through which is a spacious gravel walk. This is a favorite promenade, where one may enjoy the beauties of nature and snuff the air while he is screened from the sun. The Common as 1 have already observed on a former occasion^ is an extensive square- l^ariag the to\Vn on three sides and an a?m of the sea on t!)e fourth. This^ tout enseai- ble, is a most charmiDg view — the solemn range of trees with their dark foliage — the green field of grass swelling before the eye — the distinct Avater prospect opening a view of the surrounding conntry, and rolling the mellow western breeze, and reflecting the setting; sun — all these natural beauties with the architectural simplicity of the buildings that rise likp parapets around^ combine to render this one of the finest scenes in the world — at least I have seen nothing sur- passing it in all my travels. Will it be believed that this enchanting common takes its name from its being a common cow-pas- hire, and is actually given up to that ani- mal ! On the north side of the Common stands an edifice on an elevated site, and lifts its head above the city, ^ proudly pre-eminent.' This is called the State- House, It is an enormous pile of brick surmounted by a dome aud cupola It was this smoke-col- oured dome that I first distinguished of the town before entering the harbour. Ap- pended to the front of this edifice, is a bal- cony supported by seven prodigious square. pillars or battlements, of brick, whicb my friend bumouroiisly observed belonged to the Yankee^ order. The interior is divid- ed into apartments for the officers of the government. In the second story are two chambers for the two branches of the legis- lature. In the centre of tlie building is a winding stair-case, by which we ascend to the cupola. Here opened before us an im- posing prospect — OP the one side the land spreading around us, and rising in the dis- tance like an amphitheatre, chequered with villages and country seats, and fields ' dress- ed in living green' — on the other side the dark ocean mingling with the sky, studded with white sails and rolling vessels. Under our feet lay the town with its billy slate coloured roofs and tapering gothic spires, and hemmed around by water on all sides except a iiarrow isthmus by which it hangs on the nighbouring continent. Upon the whole, I never enjoyed a finer scene. But why is this superior to the view from Seme- * Yankee is a cognomen familiarly given to the in- habitants of the eastern states, hence (my friend tells me) Boston is often caHed Yankee town in other parts of the country, beina: the capital of those states. {Ali Bey.) 99 lalia or the mountains of Nicosia ? if any one ask-because (I answer) moral health, indus- try, LiBEKTY^ happiness reign here and give pathos to the beauties of nature ! 1 counted from this height nearly twenty spires or cupolas rising from as many chur- ches but alas not one minaret, not one mosque — nor a single monument of tlie true faith ! This reflection made me melan- choly. m CHAP. xr. y.in Excursion into the Country — In Appearance — ArcKi- tecture — Cambridge — The University. 12 June. Yesterday the weather being fine, we mounted horses for an excursion which we had been contemplating for some time. We passed over the neck as it is called, and proceeded through Roxbury, Dorchester, Brookline, Brighton and Cam- bridge. The country appeared extremely pleasant, being highly cultivated and inter- spersed with gardens, meadoAVs, orchards and country seats. The land, however, is not naturally fertile. The gardens are small but well cultivated, being designed more for use than ornciment. Some have a small green house by which they neutralize the influence of tlie seasons. The houses are mostly for the summer residence of people from the town. They are situated pleasantly enough, in general, and the adjacent grounds some times exhibit marks of considerable taste. 61 But it is to be regretted that tlie architecture of their buildings is not such as to add to the effect of their picturesque situations. In- stead of simplicity and terseness^ these boxes betray a preposterous emulation of the stately magnificence and ornaments of a palace. Tiiis vicious taste in architecture prevails, my friend informs, throughout the country. Buildings, he says, v/iiich for magnitude and design would be set down for cottages, are seen tricked out in all the profusion of architectural finery — with piazzas, balconies, pilasters, atticks and domes — ^windows and doors crowned with pediments, tympanums charged with arabesques, cornices lined with modillions, and double rows of dentoles, &g. &c. — and all this to private houses whose interior cannot open a room twenty feet square. The grandeur of simplicity is no where understood or relished in this country. If, as is commonly said, the architecture of a country is indicative of the character of the people, this account would go to prove that the Americans are finical and ostentatious above all other people. Tlsis conclusion is in some measure obviated by the explanation that my friend gives. He says, that those tvho deface the country with such architec- 6S tural foppery, are generally men who have acquired property by their own exertions and are destitute of taste and education. But this does not seem entirely satisfactory ; for where is the taste of their architects ; or are they overruled and compelled to indulge the depraved fancy of tlieir employers ? On our return through Cambridge we visited the University^ the first literary insti- tution in this country, and said to be little inferior to th** seminaries of Europe. Its buildings are se^ en in number, all of brick except the Chapel, which is of granite. This is an oblong building, with a piazza in front, supported by nine Doric pillars. The ar- chitecture of this edifice has been criticised, and it must be confessed not wholly without reason. The piazzas and halved pilasters break the unity and diminish the grandeur of proportion. A member of the University with whom my friend was acquainted, shov/ed us the objects most worthy of attention* What most attracted my observation was a fine philosophical apparatus — the astronomical instruments, however, 1 thought not equal to mine. The chymical department has a convenient and well constructed laboratory. 63 tn the anatomical room are seen a number of wax work preparations. Tliej are the work of an ingenious Italian, and are said to be superior to human subjects for pupils, on account of their distinctness of repre- sentation. This is particularly observable in the ear, which is exhibited on so large a scale as to be rendered very intelligible. The library yields to none in this coun- try for value and extent — that of the Athe- naeum is the only one that approaches it. It has been chiefly formed by private donations. The botanical department has a garden aiid a green house, which however are too small for such an institution. And it appear- ed to me to be but indiiferently husbanded. The garden is tastefully laid out in serpen- tine walks encircling an artificial basin of water, which makes a very pretty appear- ance. I noticed several plants here that I had found in Asia or Africa, and many others wliich are indigenous ; for a more minute account of which the reader is referred to my Botanical Journal. The mineralogical cabinet is too inconsid- able to deserve the name. This branch of science does not seem to be in favour at this 6^ seminary. It is indeed hardly credible, but I have heard it stated, that the superintend- ants of the university rejected a present of a very extensive collection of minerals some yeai^ since ! The member of the university already mentioned gave us an account of the internal economy of the seminary. The students, said he, are divided into four classes according to the years of their residence, four years being the term required for the first degree. They are governed by a code of laws peculiar to the university, which are administered in a summary man- ner by the instructors. They are required to recite lessons io their tutors or professors daily, for neglecting which they incur pecu- niary penalties and other severe punishments according to the degree of delinquency. They are also rewarded for diligence by certain lionorary notices, which are called parts, tliat isj characters which individuals are appoint- ed to sustain in the public exhibitions. I'hese parts have different degrees of honour attach- ed to them chiefly by opinion, (being in themselves upon an equality) and are in- tended to be dealt out with reference to the tliffering merits of the pupils. 65 This arrangement, I observed, appears very excellent, well calculated to insure jus- tice and temperate emulation. ^Justice and temperate emulation P re- torted the young man ; alas ! sir, a short residence here would convince you of the fallacy of reasoning a priori on this subject. I'hat the system of rev»^ard and punishment adopted here is on the whole beneiicial I am not prepared to controvert. And if it could be administered with impartiality and intel- ligence, many evils would doubtless be avoid- ed, that are often thought inherent. Eut alh)wing that all the gentlemen instructors ar^^ intelligent and conscientious, and dispos- ed to be impartial, there are still so many cin^umstances that will always jostle tlie scale of justice, that merit has rarely credit fiu' its true weight. In the first place a young man's character is not always known. xVnd il it is known to his comrades it imij not !)e to his instructors. The fact however unfor- tunately is, that our instructors are not en- tirely exempt from human infirmities. I'liere is no sign on their lintels that imperfection should pass them over. Prejudice, that easily besetting sin, insinuates itself in every shape, and knocks with equal hand at the 66 door of tutors and students. Its wor\ings even on staid and sober judgments deserve to be reckoned among the remarkable phe- nomena of the mind. Favoritism is odious and unjust every where, but in a literary in- stitution, there is no phrase of reprobation adequate to it. The man that introduces or countenances it there is guilty of treason to- ward the republic of letters. As to emulation, it strikes root among us sufficiently deep, and bears fruit both good and bad. There are however some evils which I fear are inseparable from our system of edu- cation. Among tbese I reckon, on the one hand, the vanity and light-headedness which distinguished (and often undeserved) honours produce in young men thus prematurely given up to flattery ; on the other hand, the chagrin and disappointment of those who defserve or think they deserve higher honours than they obtain. These causes, although of an opposite nature, produce similar effects : each injures the disposition of the young men and relaxes their exertions. Another evil of more serious import, al- though less obvious to notice, is the incidental influence of our system of education on free 67 dom of inquiry. Our instructors it is true do not incur the reprocach of attempting to forestall our opinions ; much less do they hedge in the field of knowledge by con- fining us to books of a particular per- suasion, let it cannot be denied that the authority of their known sentiments unavoidably biases our inquiries. The bare knowledge of a system or theory formed and adopted by men who stand on the high ground of instructors^ must have an influence on the most independent minded pupil. It at least fixes a point of attraction^ aiound which all will revolve, who are too indolent or ignorant to make up their own opinion. Thus truth has not and cannot have fair play. You are fortunate, sir, in your President ; at least he sustains a high reputation, 1 ob- served. Yes sir, and very deservedly ; — he is pe- culiarly calculated to manage the wayward dispositions of young men. Since his presi- dency very material improvement has been made in the police of the seminary, and if the item of impartiality forms an insulated exception, it would be going too far perhaps to say that in this the movement has been i'etrograde. 68 Borne of our instructors are not unknown in the literary world. Our President is es- teemed an elegant belles-lettres scholar. The professor of metaphysics has written a trea- tise upon logic, which if it is not on enlarged and philosophical principles, has certainly rendered the subject more simplified and in- telligible than it was left by liis predecessors. The professor of rhetorick too is not with- out literary claims. He entered upon his office under some disadvantages ; but his failure has not been so signal as was antici- pated. Indeed it may be questioned whether the narcotic effects of his lectures are not attributable as much to the contrast between him and his predecessor as to intrinsic defect. But this gentleman was not contented to enact Rigdumfunidos in the college dormi- tory ; the silent applause bestowed on his hebdomadal lullaby did not satisfy his Iiigh reaching mind ;- — a few years ago the poor man, like my lady Go-nimble, had a 'histor- ical fit.' He undertook to write a history of the late war between this country and Great Britain. A subject of this delicate nature was, you may well suppose, little suited to the wire edge of his feelings. W ith very little reflection he might have seen a 69 * transparent probabilitif of failing. To write such a history^ as it ought to be written, would require not only a candid and cautious mind, but chastened feelings and tamed pas- sions ;■ — instead of which our professor went to work witji as much headlong nonchalance as he would dogmatize on a theme. He has, however, ^ accoutred as he was/ succeeded in one respect where most historians fail, — he has fairly rivalletl an applauded excel- lence of an ancient historian, — for his history not only betrays no partiality in favour of his native country, but actually leans against it. In this respect I fancy his history is sui generis. But at all events our professor is not alone in his miscarriage. Attempts at the history of the same period by Mr. Brack- enridge and Mr. Hunt, have been followed by failure equally notable — if indeed the mawkish stuff of the latter deserve the name of history, to which it certainly bears no re- semblance. To the friend of the American character it must be a consolatory reflection that this book of our professor's ' that roars so loud and thunders in the index' under the name of ' History,' is not likely to be a lasting blot on our national literature. Its utter want of 70 merit as an authentic statement of facts will luckily avert such a misfortune. My idea of this flourishing seminary was greatly exalted by what I saw and heard. Its literary aspect charmed me. And I could not help remarking to our young acquaint- ance the happiness he must enjoy. Alas ! sir^ I am sorry to tell you that your conclusions are again erroneous. If the hap- piness of mankind is fairly measured by that within these walls, this world may well be thought, (as by some it is,) to be the scrip- tural hell, and men in a state of punishment. If to be in a state of constant turmoil and agitation — anxious to deserve the reward but doubtful of obtaining it if deserved — is to be happy, then are the students of this university happy. But emulation is not the only cause of un= happiness here. The course of study pre- scribed for us^ if the best, is not always the most pleasant, — nor is a person always in a humour to apply himself; especially to per- form the labour meted out by a literary task- master. We left this classical retreat highly grati- fied. We returned to the city over one of 71 the long bridges (of which there are a num- bei-) that connects it with tlie adjacent coun- try. It was evening ; and the lights of this and the neighbouring bridges had a very pleasing effect. y% CHAP. XI. President's Visit Fourth of July Oration— — Boston Hospitality. 5 July. A few days ago I witnessed one of the most moving scenes that 1 have seen since I was at Morocco : — the President ba- shaw of these states made his public eatre into this city. And it was a heart touching scene to observe with what affection his sub- jects gathered around him — to see the chief citizens holding his stirrup or bridle, kissing his handsj &c. &c. Their loyalty forcibly reminded me of the Emperor's reception when he graciously vouchsafed to visit his subjects. The procession for the President was, however, much the most splendid — old men and boys, young men and maidens pre- ceded and followed him. A deputation met him many miles from the city. A strong military detachment served as an escort and a life-guard. During his residence here the city has put on a new face — all is movement, ♦hilarity and parade. 7$ Yesterday was the grand holydaj of the country^ being the anniversary of the inde- pendence of the nation. An oration in coni» memoration of the event was delivered. The orator drew his topics from the history of the country. His delivery was plain and unaffected^ and the scope of thought quite creditable to his talents and reflection. This seems to militate with what ray friend has frequently said of the habits of the young men of the town being inconsistent with study and methodical thinking — or perhaps it is only an exception. The President was at this solemnity of course^ for nothing is now done or thought of without him. Tlie public prints give daily bulletins of his movements — where he has been and where he is going to be^ &c. My friend informs me that the President's advent has been attended with some remark- able phenomena. It is said to have fairly turned the brain of one editor^ whose types^ as by instinct, spell nothing 'but President, refusing every combination but such as per- tains to him, or his horse, or his leather breeches. Some pretend to say, however, that the President is not the original cause of his mental malady, of winch they cite ^ 7 7'i ^ several previous indications, such as tlie anile fondness which he betrayed for the wedding garments of a Mr, Russell and wife, and the out-landish words that he be- gan to use, as ^ Newspaperials,' &c. — and several other symptoms of his distemper do they enumerate. Among the physical phenomena of the President's approach, continued my friend, the most wonderful is the attraction of several large bodies out of their orbits to the dis- tance of thirty or forty miles. Some attribute this astonishing phenomenon in part to lunar influence, under the idea that the presidential attraction alone was inadequate to such an effect. Legal measures are in contemplation to ascertain the correctness of this conjec- ture*^ The President is said to be w ell pleased with the loyalty and hospitality of this city. Its hospitality was known and has been applauded before ; and if I have not hitherto borne testimony to it, it is not because I do not entertain a due sense of it. * Query — What does my friend mean by legal mcamres in this connexion ? — A. B. \ writ de hciiatico inquirendo is probably intended in |he text.— Tr. 4^ My friend has frequently discussed tlii^^ subject with me when he has heard me ex- tolling the hospitality of this people. You fall into the same mistake that most stran- gers do upon this point, said he — and it is a Very natural mistake. But a closer in- spection demonstrates it to be such. When a stranger corner into town whose character or connexions give him authority or eclaty Bostonians are all attention — no people can be more officiously polite — the forms of eti- quette are dispensed with^ and no one thinks a party complete unless the stranger is there. He of course finds his residence of a few weeks very pleasant, and conceives a high idea of the hospitality of the people, which he gratefully publishes on his return, to his home. This accounts for the name tliis town has unduly acquired for hospital- ity, especially at a distance. But at the time that they go so far out of the Avay for him, they will pass others unnoticed whose character is equally respectable and who have equal claims on their politeness ; but who unluckily are not buoyed up by such powerful auxiliary aid. And the very peo- ple who thus throw open tlieir doors to a distinguished stranger, will receive a ' coun- 76 try cousin' or acquaintance^ with a look that would chill the hearty and with civility meas- ured according to the probahle duration of his stay. Tsay, sir, at the very time that they are paying such extravagant court to a stranger, they have acquaintances who are every way respectable and with whom they have been in habits of intimacy from their youth up^ both at school and the university, but toward whom their hospitality has never extended farther than a passing nod, or the interchange of unmeaning civilities. If this is hospitality, then do Bostonians deserve credit for it. The fact is, that the hospita- ble people of this town live in a constant dread of ^ being burthened by their acquaint- ance ; and this liberal feeling is but partially smothered by the honour of entertaining a distinguished stranger. If you receive this account v/ith distrust, it is creditable to your heart, but a better knowledge of the town will undeceive you. Upoii this statement of my friend I shall t'ake occasion to make some remarks here- after. "tl CHAP. XII. Siciie of Religion in Boston — Its Charitable Instiiir tions^ ^c. I HAVE been at considerable pains to catcE the religious feeling of this people, to as- certain the strength and bearing of their prejudices. With this view, 1 have attend^ ed their worship at the various churches of the city ; which on their Sabbalh are in general very fully attended. The audience appeared to consist mostly of the middle and upper classes. Where, thought I, do the poorer people worship ? — or do CJiris. tians think them of too little importance to make provision for them ? For a solution,. I went as usual to my friend. He inforrag me that the common people are generally too poor to attend the established worship— or rather, if I lightly understood him, the Christians have established a sort of reli- gious aristocracy, of which wealth is the 78 principal ingredient. For this purpose, the interior of their churches is parceled out into a great number of small apartments which are bought up by people of wealthy who alone are able to buy them. By this ingenious and truly Christian expedient, all who are not able to buy one of these apartments, are crowded out of the church. The number of these has been computed to be rather more than two thirds of the popu- lation of the city. How much more hu- mane are the ordinances of the Prophet I The religious services of the Christians are not so solemn and appropriate as the rikats ordained by the Prophet ; but from the best observations I could make, I am inclined to think that they are performed with nearly as much devotion. Their min- isters, I must admit, go through the solem- nities with more propriety and judgment, than our Imauns and arc in general more respectable and better informed. Their manners of preaching are very dissimilar. Some enforce their doctrines with a sincere and natural eToquence, worthy of a better faith. Others appeared rather enthusiastic and dogmatical — and others again, seemed to pFeach, (to use my friend^s expression, \ 79 to be heard of men. He has frequently told me that these geatlenien are not fond of study, and generally, in ihis city especially, contract habits unpropitious both to reflec- tion and application. This however I have heard contradicted by others, and am in- clined to think that there are at least some exceptions to my friend's statement. The laity are extremely attached to their preachers. But this attachment is not very enlightened, and is most commonly emulous and exclusive, extending only to the preach- er of their own parish or church. This spirit sometimes leads them into the grossest ill manners and even injustice. For if their own preacher goes abroad to preach at some other church, his parishioners do not conceal their dissatisfaction, and treat his substitute with very little ceremony. If they are in church before they are apprized of the in- supportable change they sometimes leave it, but more frequently they take care to obtain previous intelligence and of course leave their pews vacant. Thus the poor pastor, unable to gather his flock, preaches to the walls. In some instances this fastidious affectation has carried this pious people to almost incredible lengths. It is said they 80 have actually requested some preachers new er to officiate again in their church ! Indeed all seem resolved to go to heaven in their own way, and under captains of their own choosing. The truth is, said my friend conversing upon this subject — the truth is they go to church just as they go to the theatre, partly from habit and partly to pass an idle hour, or to escape from the fiend ennui ; and if they can hear a tune or two well siing, and a good voice from the desk accompanied with a handsome countenance, they return satis- fied, and with rapture acknowledge that they have heard ' the most superb prayer that was ever addressed to an audience!^ Indeed their religion is essentially theatrical. In 110 catholic country perhaps is the power of spectacle so ^ great as it is here. This is evident from the theatrical treatment which their preachers receive, which for fickleness and caprice, is worthy of the * gods and god- desses' that preside over the stage. In preaching, all the town assume to be con- noisseurs; and where this is the case, Miard is the fate of the preacher ;^ for their ca- price equals their infatuation. If he hap- pens to take^ he is extolled ad coelum, their 81 admiration knows no bounds. Put if it uh- luckily happens otherwise, the wight must expect to preach (as was before observed) to empty pews. Eut even he that succeeds stands on slippery rocks. As he gained their favor by his pretty looks, he must ex- pect to lose it when those looks lose their charms. This soon comes to pass — the wheel soon turns and rolls him doion and another iij). Instantly, in ^the tyvinkling of an eye/ every gunner disappears, and the poor spoiled young man is at last struck off as much below as he once went above his true w^orth. Another youth comes into fash- ion, v»^ith face as shining, and voice as sweet as liis predecessor's. It is now his turn to lead the town captive ; and now the morn- ing stars of flattery sing his praises together. It is needless to add that, in fulness of time, he also goes the way of his predecessor. A speculation of this sort involved the good people of one parish in a laughable predicament. A young man of talents too great to be coquetted with came along. The people of the parish aforesaid, admired him of course, rather before they heard him preach. They had heard him for some time with wonderful constancy of affection, when s% he, either doubting their stability or wishing to avenge the fate of his brethren, took an opportunity to mete back to them their own measure. He accordingly jilted them, and that too with circumstances of unheard of cruelty, and cold bloodedness ! His parish- ioners were inconsolable ; their wounded pride knew no balm. *« To be treated so by a boy ! who ought to have been grateful for the honor we conferred upon him V^ The epilogue to this comico- tragical exhi- bition is said to be in a state of forwardness, and is expected to be still more facetious, inasmuch as experience disregarded, ren- ders even distress ridiculous. But, said I, if religion is really at so low an ebb in this city, how comes it that the people are at so great expense in building churches and supporting teachers, &c. ? This may be accounted for, he replied, in two ways. In the first place public opinion and the laws require it. In the next place they make the most of necessity by turning it into an occasion to display their wealth and generosity. How far all the charitable institutions of the town might be accounted for on the latter principle it would be invid- ious to enquire. We ought rather to rejoice 88" in the good effects of even a wrong motive, and even admire the wisdom that makes even bad materials work together for good. Suf- fice it then to state that the inhabitants of this town are remarkably liberal and public spirited ; and that scarcely any charitable purpose is allowed to languish for want of the fostering aid of the wealthy. And when they subscribe for the erection of Hospitals for the insane and similar laudable purposes, the merit of the act surely ought not to be drawn, in questioa by any supposed rever- sionary or contingent interest. ^^ CHAP. XIII. Jtifluence of wealth — Its tendency to destroy the moral faculties — Corruption of language — Wild lands. The marabout of Tangier was right when he said that the mass of mankind are mad© for the amusement and behoof of men of tal- ents — at least such seems to be their fate all over the world. That this is pre-eminently true in this town I am more convinced the more I become acquainted with its citizens and the instruments of opinion in applica- tion among them. Whatever may be thought by the learned respecting Archimedes' alle- gory, it is quite certain that the only lever that can move this city is (without a meta- phor) money. And never did this lever act with greater purchase than here. He, that holds this, needs nothing else — he is listened to with the utmost docility, and his dicta are treasured up and repeated with the most un- doubting submission. He has admirers wherever he appears who are ambitious of 8^ puffing him without hope of reward, save the honour of it. A general pre-disposidon to praise, approve or admire more surely indi- cates this mine and its owner than all the arts of rabdomancy. Whatever he thinks or does is right, and every appendage of his is excellent — his manners are the most per- fect, his equipage tlie most elegant, and his daughters tlie fairest and altogether lovely. Woe to the wight without money who comes in competition with hiniy with only equal merits — his superiority must be over- powering or his case is desperate. This money worship has not only vitiated the moral sense of this people, but has ac- tually corrupted their language. Of this tlie word good is a remarkable instance. This, by a characteristic metaphor, no longer ex- presses moral but pecuniary qualities, and is applied not to the heart but the jyurse. Thus w hen they say that this or that man is good. they mean that he has property or is able to pay a debt ! My friend often descants upon ths ^ Bos- ton god,' as he calls money ; which he says constitutes both their lares and jpe nates. It is astonishing and melancholy, he would say, to see the adoration of this mia;hty deity ; 86 before which Bel boweth, Nebo stoopeth — to see even strong minds broken down by its influence, and lose all sense of right and wrong, of merit and demerit. I am not wondering that the bulk of the people are but partially informed and willing to take opinions at retail as they do their gin and tobacco. But to see the moral sense erased from the mind, and a general prostration of principle before the shrine of wealth — and that too among the better informed — is in- deed intolerable. It ought to be reprobated and held up to public scorn. But this dis- position, odious and contemptible as it is, mii,ht be pardoned, or at least pitied and disregarded, if its consequences were only of a private and personal nature — they might bend the knee to wealth, pervert their language, sell their daughters in wedlock to the highest bidder whether fool or knave, and, — but for the fuliiic effects of the con- duct, its influence on our national character and political institutions— I certainly would not trouble myself nor disgust you with the mention of it. But when I consider that this omnipotence of wealth is as subversive «f the spirit of republicanism as it is of 87 morality ami justice, I think it ought to be marked with public censure and contempt. It may be thought strange that such a pernieious weed should take root in this town, emphatically styled the nursery of liberty. But we must remember that it ac- quired and deserved that appellation in the days of simplicity and integrity, before the apotheosis of wealth — before the contagion of servility had been scattered by the blasts of patronage. In those patriarchal days favouritism had not become systematized and so incorporated with the ideas and feel- ings of the people as at present. Then men laid their account to rise not by patron- age but by merit. And it is now worth the consideration of those whose conduct and example stamp the character of a people to inquire, whether this course of conduct is consonant with the genius of our institutions and government ; or whether it docs not tend to break down that spirit of indepen- dence which is the stamina of our free gov- ernment. They ought to reflect too, whether it would not be a more generous policy to patronize merit only, instead of drawing around thein parasites and flatterers who expect to live by borrowed consequence — 88 whether their tables and drawing rooms would not be as much honored, and them, selves and families as much edified by the intercourse of independent and cultivated minds who exact a respectful co-equality, as by the presence of a servile jpecus who w atch tlie nod and re-echo the sentiments of their host. I am persuaded that if the town ever re- covers from this distemper, the cure must come from this source. To talk of peoples^^ curing themselves, of their returning ex mero motu to the erect course of indepen- dence, and throwing off their mental vas- salage by their own strength is altogether- idle. They are not even conscious of their disease. On the contrary, they think them- selves the most independent and impartial of mortals, without a single sordid or servile particle in their composition. And they are even more sensitive than most people under the imputation of being sycophantic or time serving, and swallowing the opinions of those whom money or fashion has deified. A people sitting in such palpable daikness will never come to the light of themselves ; for there is reason to fear that their organ of perception is decayed. 89 Besides, it is riglit that the cure should come from the same source with the malady. If men of station and talents (who ought better to have regarded what they owed to themselves and to their ccuntryj) have been instrumental in introducing a system of fa- voritism and its concomitants, fawning ser- vility and meanness; they surely are iho, men to begin the work of reformation, cf bringing back their townsmen to tiieir prim- itive integrity. By so doing they may make some slight amends for theinischief they have occasioned. Bnt if the people of this town, continued my friend, attach so much importance to wealth, it is but fair to allow that they show some judgment in the use of it. After the claims of vanity and display are satisiied, they commonly cast about them for monu- ments to which to a^x their names, thu«^ attempting to acquire by the purse the seni- blance of the meed due only to talents and virtue. Those who cannot afford to !)uild halls or market houses, purchase immense tracts of wild land, contented to lose the first cost and accruing charges, provided they are allowed to christen a township of bears and sables by their own name ; wi*!: k they hope by this means to send down to future ages. It may be said, perhaps, that convicts and debtors have their names per- petuated and transmitted to posterity on gaol books and judicial records ; but that is a very diiferent sort of celebrity. H €HAP.X1V. Domestic Economy of Bostonians — IVieir Esprit du Corps — Its Consequences. 1 DO not agree with my friend that this pe- cuniary propensity deserves censure chiefly on account of its tendency to subvert the government of the country. It appears to me that its private and domestic effects are equally pernicious and lamentable. Among these may be reckoned the expensive habits, the preposterous itching for style and pa- rade so common in this city, and so preju- dicial to the comfort and happiness of fami- lies. Nothing is more frequent than to see men, ^ with means too humble for their haughty minds/ in moderate circumstances with a young and numerous family de- pendant on their exertions, anticipate their income, involve themselves in debt, and at their death bequeath to their families penury SLiid dependence. In no other country, I believe, is the style of living so dispropor- tioned to the ability or property as here^ In Europe if people live in splendor, they are generally able to bear the expence, with- out breaking in upon their capital. Here it is quite otherwise. Men with no property but a stated salary swallow up that by aifecta- tion and extravagance, and losing all fore- cast, bring up a family with a certain pros- pect of poverty. These habits of extravagance are not con- fined to the men. The ladies have their full share ; and in fondness for finery and dress exceed even the ladies of Botany Bay.^' It is said that London milliners receive their largest orders from this country, and inquire with surprise Avho there is here able to sup- port such style ? The inhabitants of this town, (said my friend,) have one trait, I must allow, that is altogether honorable to them. The esprit du corps for which they are distinguished certainly does honor to their feelings, [t is true that it gives them the air of novices when they are caught abroad, and strangers even accuse them of illiberality, when they per- ceive their ideas all centre around their own native town ; but Bostonians are wise enough ■^ Vide Brewster's Encyclopedia-^art. Colony. 98 to disregard the ill-natured pleasantry of southern wags, and go on their way rejoic= ing that they are not as other men. This amiable attachment to the things of this town is productive of a variety of inter- esting effects. In young men and misses it produces a suitable ignorance of all out-of- town or ' country^ matters — under which term ^ country' they intend certain terra in- cognita, about which their ideas are as flat- tering and nearly as accurate as they are of Siberia or El Bahhah Soudan. Now al- though this ignorance ostentatiously avowed to ' country cousins' exposes them very un- reasonably to the charge of affectation^ yet it certainly presents them in a meek and unas- suming point of view. In those who have arrived to maturity its effects are equally happy. Meet them on 'Change or in their drawing rooms, you find them always uni- form — always exhibiting the same enviable complacency and self-importance — their ideas always bounded by the same circumference, to wit, their town ; and always revolving around the same centre, to wit, themselves. This excellent characteristic gives this people many enjoyments which the w^orld knows not of. By the help of this they keep 91 a constant procession of great and celebrated personages passing before them ; whose greatness is only visible to Boston eyes, and whose celebrity Bostonians entirely monopo- lize. It makes them in short a little world of their own, whose vast concerns engross their whole attention and outweigh in their minds the rest of the universe. A Bostonian abroad can never remain long incog. : if you find him in New-York, Balti- more or elsewhere, you soon perceive by his dip what quarry he comes from. His empty consequential air, his real and pretended ig- norance, are marks which soon betray him. In conversation he displays with exquisita naivete his predilection for his own dear town. Its paramount importance is the lemma of every proposition and the bout of every observation. And if any thing is in dispute he appeals to the example of his aforesaid town with the most conclusive confidence, these enlarged and liberal views exhibit him to strangers in a very pleasant and patriotic light. There is one case in which the tendency of this esprit du corps is thought to be of a questionable nature, that is, in its effects on statesmen and legislators. Some have con- 95 tended that this Bostonian feelings by con- tracting the views of statesmen whom the town has sent forth^ renders them less fitted to make laws for a great nation. But this objection is founded on an assumption alto- gether inadmissable, viz. the subordinate im- portance of this town compared with the rest of the nation. To give you a thorough understanding of this subject it is necessary to observe that not every one that lives in Boston is subject to this esprit du corps in its full extent. There are too classes of citizens widely dif- fering in their own estimation from each other. The first class comprehends those who were born in town, and whose parents before them made it their domicii. I'lie second class includes such as have migrated hither to sojourn for a season^ to buy and sell or pursue a profession. The former draw a deep line of circumvallation around their body to preserve its integrity from all plebean commixion. Tliey look upon the second class as interlopers and intruders, who are encroaching upon their patrimony, corrupting the city manners* by standing • between the wind and their nobility.' * Vide the life of R. T. Paine prefixed to his works. 96 The other class are a peaceable well dis- posed, and harmless sort of people, not so high minded as their brethren, and occasion- ally exhibiting a gleam of independence. The first class assume a loftier gait, and claim an exclusive patent-right to the immu- nities of gentility and fashion ; but the second possess full as many qualities of gentlemen. Both are alike slaves of fashion and opinion, but the second class retains still a few sparks of moral sense not yet extinguished by thti power of money* sr CHAP. XV. Commencement at Cambr'dge — The Exercises — Ameri- can Literature — Causes of its Inferiority — Piling. :S8 August. Yesterday I went with the multitude to see the grand Commencement exhibition at the University. The exercises were performed by those students who, hav- ing finished their term are about leaving the institution and receiving its degrees. The recitations were delivered from a temporary stage erected in a church, the pulpit of which served for the President's throne. They were composed in various languages, such ,^ as English, Latin, Greek, Hebrew, &c. — none in Arabic ! Their Latin and Greek savoured strongly of English, both in pro- nunciation and style. The former in par- ticular struck me oddly, owing 1 believe chiefly to the long flat sound which tliey uni- formly give to the letter r?, and the American sound of the letter i^ and also to occasional 9 wrong accent. I am inclined to think how- ever that the genuine English pronunciation of the classical languages is more sonorous and perhaps nearer that of the ancients than the pronunciation of the French or of any other European nation except the Italians, and the descendants of the ancient Greeks, The oratory of the young men was natural and unimpassioned ; addressed mostly to the understanding. But tliey nearly all failed in the first great requisite of good speaking, by not making themselves heard — or if heard they did not fill the house and force them- selves on their audience. Their gestures were frequently incorrect and their manners generally awkward. And their articulation and emphases might in some instances have been improved. There were also faults of a higher order that might be pointed out, if one were disposed to criticism — such as the choice of trite subjects, and the tame common place ideas announced as novelties^ &c. &c. But due allowance ought to be made for the youth of the performers. Upon the whole the exhibition was gratifying and creditable to individuals and the institution. The audience was numerous and brilliant, composed of the literati and fashionables of tie city and neighboring country. The ladieb especially, in their ambitious costumes, made an imposing show. The President of the University seated on his throne presided over the solemnities. His rotund figure and luminous countenance, braced in his official robe, and surmounted vs^ith a square black cap, made rather a grotesque spectacle, w T''he day was closed with festivity, as is the custom in this country. A public dinner is given by the University. Of this I par- took by the invitation of my friend, who hav- ing taken the degrees of the institution, had a right to invite me. Here I found myself among the Proceres of the land — civil, mili- tary, ecclesiastical and literary characters. After dining they sung a hymn, in which I joined with great devotion. When I saw several venerably appearing divines joining in the festive and devout scene, I could not repress a sigh that they would probably be left to die as they have lived in error and misbelief! When we were returning to the city our conversation turned on the literary character of the country. We both agreed in allowing the Americans, talents equal to the inhabit- ants of the Eastern world. And yet, said I, 100 how comes it that among so many engaged in tlie literary race^ so few have gained any considerable prize ? so few have arrived at excellence in literature or made discoveries in science ? To this my friend replied, that this is a problem which many on both sides of the Atlantic had tried to solve. But ncf solution that I have yet seen appears entire- ly satisfactory. It has always appeared to me that the operative cause of our literary inferiority is to be found in the propensity to imitatio7i vflnch is an endemick in this coun- try. The truth is, we liave always been in a state of pupilage — our literati (if indeed there is such a body in the country,) looking up to Europe for instruction, and our sol disant gentry for fashion, and all receiving their lesson with implicit docility. We found it more easy to throw off the political than the literary government of foreigners. I^his mimetic disposition so destructive of inven- tion and originality, is not confined to litera- ture — it is the predomiiiant characteristic of the people. Nor is,. it peculiar to cities, it extends the whole length of the sea- coast, and pervades the entire depth of the interior. One village imitates another village thought to be more refined or wealthy: and one indi- 101 vidua! apes a neighbour whom he considers his superior. Without doubt the popular form of our government — ^by taking out of the market a large proportion of the best talents — has had its effect in prolonging our literary minority. But this alone does not seem adequate to such an effect, ^ or rather defects But whatever may be the cause^ the fact is undeniable — the taste of our country is essentially crude and unformed. Although our colleges and universities are numerous and flourishing, and knowledge probably more generally diffused here than among any other people, yet (and it is aston- ishing to see it) few even of those who re- ceive what is vormed a liberal education ever mature a literary taste or pursue any branch of learning, except what is necessary to the. practice of a profession. From this circum- stance the field of literature is abandoned to empiricks and pretenders, whose jejune pro- ductions gain some notoriety because our national vanity has nothing better to feed upon. It is but too truCu I fear (continued my' fdend) that the obstacles to literary excel- lenee in this country are indigenous. Th^ * habits of the people are not studious. We have very few among us who study for the love of study. Our scholars are impatient for profit before they have acquired capital. In accordance with the trafficking spirit of the country^ they manufacture their flimsy wares for immediate sale. But although our literature is thus mate- rially unripe, and our writers exhibit few marks of erudition or matured reflection, our literary annals can boast of some specimens of wonderful precocity and still more won- derful modesty. In a late magazine pub- lished in a neighboring city, and edited by a youth fully out of his teens, I lately found a precious proof of this : — the unassuming reviewer, after using a number of celebrated names witla very little ceremony, knocks Du- gald Stuart quite down. He concludes a notable piece of garrulity after this sort — ^' We w ish our readers to know that Stuart has rer^ little originality, has made very few discoveries in the philosophy of the hu- man mind ; is indebtexl to Dr. Reid for a system that is generally sound !*' &c. &c. — Analect. Mag. Aug. I8I7. All this is nice no doubt : but tliis magazine can furnish other specimens not a whit behind it. The 103 same journal affords an example of the aping disposition of oar writers which I have just mentioned. Its awkward and mawkish imi- tation extends even to the style and turn of expression. Whoever is acquainted with the Edinhurgh and Quarterly Reviews will find the style of this journal as much like that of those as the gait and dress of a cham- bermaid are like those of lier mistress. It may be thought strange that the same people should be habitually under the influ- ence of imitation^ and yet betray such an itch for innovation — as we Americans cer- tainly do, as appears by the strange words and bombastic style which we meet with in American made books. I will not under- take to explain this apparent paradox ; nor decide which disposition is most prejudicial to literary taste and national character. In the public papers this morning I ob- served the literary exercises at the univer- sity, some of which were designated as being peculiarly excellent. These encomiums were as I thought generally misplaced. I so far distrusted however the correctness of my judgment as to ask the opinion of my friend^ reading to him at the same time the laudatory critique in the paper. He burst into a hearty 104! laugh. Is it possible, said he, that you have lived so long in this town and do not un- derstand the puffing system in fashion here ? It is more than probable that the writer of this critique was not even present at the ex- hibition ; or if he was, had first written his remarks. These puffs are generally man- aged in a very ingenious way, and are found to be ^ the sovereignest thing on earth,' when skilfully applied ; especially in a town where opinions are an article of retail. In this town the earliest puff is commonly the moi^t successful, as it is sure to find the en- lightened cits completely opinionless^ and ready to be carried about by every wind of puffing. When these collegiate exercises are the subject, some officious friend or sa- j^ient editor is generally the puffor. And the technical introduction of this class of' puffs is in the words following, to wit, <^ Where all performed so well, it would be invidious to discriminate, we canvot forbear howQYtv just to observe that the chaste style and impressive eloquence of Mr. A. B. gave distinguished gratification.'' This is usually translated thus, ^ as to the merits of the per^ formances I did not pay sufficient attention to be abl« to decide, yet as I, the puffor, am, 105 the especial friend of Mr. A. B. (the puffee,) I cannot forbear Just to take this method to induce the public to believe that he is a sur- prising youthj and did in very d^ed surpass all his class-mates^' &c. k'c'. '^ 4IB %i -mMwm iOfi CHAP. XVI. AH Bey prepares to leave town — Tribute of gratitude to the hospitality of Bostonians — Their character — Com' pared with tht Inhabitants of Algiers^ ^c. SOth Sept. My friend* has at length concluded to accompany me in my tour through the southern and western part of the country. We have made our arrange- ments to set out to-morrow in a chaise and pair. For a few days past I have been oc- cupied in taking leave of my numerous friends — ^for such I will ever esteem them. Our parting is very cordial and aflfects me to the heart. I must here once for all state my unquali- fied dissent from my friend's opinion re- specting the hospitality of the citizens of the town. Surely if any thing can be called hospitality their humanity and politeness to * It appears from a subsequent part of the MS, that this * friend' of our traveller who makes so conspicuous a figure in the preceding pages is a tAtive of Virginia. — TV, 107 mt deserve the name and the praise of it-*" «t hoc meminisse semper juvabit ! [The residue of the chapter consists of general reflections upon the state of society in Boston, as to refinement, morality and religion. The author then draws a parallel between the Bostonians and the in- habitants of Algiers, Morocco and Constantinople. la all that relates to the learning and the arts of civil- ized life he gives a decided preference to the former ; but he claims precedence for his Mussulmen brethren not only in religion, but in moral principle and that rectitude of feeling which prompts one instinctively to discriminate between right and wrong, merit and demerit. He also thinks that the people of the last mentioned cities are most discerning, thoughtful and independent, more in the habit of thinking for them- selves, and consequently less exposed to dupery, &c' These opinions, the result of our author's intercourse in this town, and so flattering to our vanity, may startle us a little at first, but he fortifies them with a variety of curious speculations and allusions, which the Translator regrets he cannot give in extenso.] CHAP. XVII. Mi Bey leaves Boston — takes the route through Woreeiter^ Hartford^ ^c. to JVew York. His observations on the country-its minerals — Geology — Botany— Speculations nipon the formntion and antiquity of this continent m^ •«iii»iirftiMMp 109 APPENDIX. Memorial of Mi Beij^ ^-c. 4-c. concerning the introduction of Islamism into America."^ The conversion of this new world to the true faith, was the sublime project conceiv- ed by Imaum Ibrahim Mukabedladzi. It has long been wished more than expected by the faithful and the good. If this glori- ous purpose can in any degree be advanced by my feeble efforts, I shall be happy and blessed — then shall I gather the fruit of all my toils and travels altogether — of the thirst and heat of Africa and Asia, and the perils of the Mediterranean and Atlantic ! If to any this project seems chimerical, let him hear and judge. And may the Prophet of prophets give him wisdom to judge. * Sic in MS. — This memorial from some internal marks it seems the author intends to dedicate to the Grande Signior What is here published is evidently only a rous^h draft, without forni or conneiuon: — Tr^ 10 Of the continent of America, that part called the United States is the most inter- esting and enlightened. Here consequently ought our exertions to hegin. But what part of these States is most favorable for the attempt? An important question, and diffi- cult to answer. I can speak from personal knowledge only of this city [Boston] and its immediate neighborhood — from which we must judge ;for the present of the rest of the country, as we measure a circle by a segment. It cannot be said that this city is predis- posed to a revolution of the nature and ex- tent of the one in contemplation. It lies contented and inert in its present darkness. Such a mighty innovation, if prematurely or improvidently attempted, would doubt- less alarm and shock the people. Hut there are many circumst ..nces in the presant state of this city, in its character, manners, and opinions, which taken together convince me that this is the point to begin at ; that here a breach may be raapearance so formidable, is weak, divided and mutinous. The teach- ers of misbelief disagree about the manner of misbelieving. And their quarrels have been so virulent as to create mutual enmity and distrust. One party charges the other with infidelity, want of zeal, treachery. This in its turn accuses its adversary of making a book for itself instead of the Book of their religion, of tyranny, bigotry, &c. Whether these accusations are true or false, they are the cause and consequence of a mighty schism, that is spreading wider and wider and opening a door to the healthful breeze of truth. Nor is this controversy confined to the teachers — the common people engage in it lid with as much heat as their leaders. The points about which they dispute are of no importance either to Islamism or Christian- ity.* And if we thought proper to join either party we might indulge them with their fa- vorite dogmas without compromising the iloctrines of the Prophet. But this warfare is not engaged in by the whole population. There is a small but re- flecting number who either disapprove of the doctrines of the great rival pai-ties^ or of the measures adopted to support those doctrines. These are mere spectators of the pious con- tention. And from these we have probably * It will be remarked that I have said nothiDg" of the advantage of the contemplated conversion on the score of doctrine — to the faithful this would be su- perfluous. I would only observe here, that our creed is as pre-eminent over that of the Christians in simplicitj and intelligibility as it is in truth. If any doubt this, let him compare the creed established by the con- centrated wisdom of Christendom at the council of Nice, with that of the Prophet. The former begins thus, " We believe in one God, Father Almighty, Creator of heaven and earth and of all things visible and invisible: and in one Lord Jesus the only begotten Son of God, begotten of the father, before all ages, God of God, light of light, true God of the true God, begotten, not made, consnbstantial with the father," &c. ^c. Now hear ours, sublime and true — La illaha ila Allah ! — There is no god but God ! J. B. 113 more to apprelieiid than from both of the liti- gating factions. In selecting one of these sects for an ally in onr project of conversion, regard must be had to their character, prejudices and con- nexions. In this city the liberal party is the most numerous and respectable. It compre- hends all the wealth and fashion of the town. The Liberales profess to be more enlightened and freer from prejudice than their oppo- nents. Although the amount of this is soon computed, to wit — that they have laid aside their old prejudices for new ones that are more fashionable — yet this circumstance is of importance to our purpose. If tliey have been detached from one set of prejudices, they may be probably from another — and then with due exertion the scion of truth and Islamism may be engrafted. It would be worth while, perhaps, to as- certain the truth of the charge alleged against this sect of skepticism and disregard to their Book, The interpretation of this may be, that their good disposition and research are unclenching the hold of error and preparing their minds for the true faith. It will be important to study the character and opinions of the leaders of the two parties * JO Ii4 before we make choice of either. Men of a bold aspiring temperament, addicted tQ singularity, bustle and affectation, put in motion more by vanity and an itch for dis- tinction than by the merits of a cause ; who preach even in the cause of error as if they hardly believe it — with a wavering purpose and misgiving heart— men of this mould will be useful instruments in our hands ; and can be easily attached to our cause if we flatter them with the idea of be- ing the ostensible leaders. Upon the whole if we begin in this city, the Liberales are the party with whom we must seek alliance. For though their oppo- nents might be as easily duped, their influ- ence is too inconsiderable and their name too unpopular to be of much use to us. To ensure success it will be necessary to give our cause brilliancy and eclat in the outset. All the auxiliaries of wealth, tal- ents and fashion should be brought to our aid. Nothing in this city will supply the absence of these. The Tmaums and Fakirs selected for the high trust of sowing the seeds of truth in this benighted land, must be men of talents, education and address. They should be invested with all the splen- 115 doB that money can command. Their mosques should be magnificent and richly endowed. With these pre-requisites a few able Imaums would find no difllculty in at- tracting, first to their drawing rooms and then to their mosques, all the fashionables and literati of the city. The example of these, always contagious, would soon influ- ence the middle and lower classes. With a good voice aad commanding manners^with funds sufficient to appear men of the world, to give dinners and routs, frequent the the- atre, &c. our teachers would be certain of success. The fasliionables would court their society and ape their manners, the literati would be convinced by their arguments, and the vulgar dazzled with the novelty and splendor. Thus ail classes would swallow the new doctrines and taste the saving draught of truth. The celerity of this movement will not appear incredible, when we consider the in- fluence of fasliion and the manner in which opinions are handed through the city. If a youthful preacher without the aid of wealth ar the attractions of novelty in doctrine, can empty the churches of the oldest pastors and draw the town after him, would it be 116 wonderful if the eclat of a new faith, and the. power of a true one, gilded with wealth, magnificence and fashion, should arrest tlie attention of such a volatile and fantastic people in a much greater degree? I would not be understood to say, that all who attend the preaching of our apostles or appear at their levees would become sin- cere converts off-a-hand. But I do not hesitate to assert that Islamism, by the aid of the accompjiniments already mentioned, would immediately become the f?\shionable religion of the city, which all who wished to be thought genteel would adopt and be- lieve, or affect to believe. It would soon become the criterion of good company, edu- cation and liberality. How long it would require to convert the Christian teachers themselves, when they found every avenue to distinction, except by the new faith, closed upon them, and when fashion and interest conspired to con- vince them, it is not easy to determine. Allowing them to be candid and intelligent men — a character which they in general sus- tain — we might expect to number them witfe us speedily. 117 But to effect this healing change, our missionaries must possess an intimate ac- quaintance with the human heart. They must exercise caution and judgment in broaching their doctrines, not to alarm prej- udice or provoke controversy. They must bring every species of moral artillery to bear. With a people proverbial for vanity little sagacity will point out what string to pull — when argument fails, bring up flattery to support it. In short they should be able to mould even the weaknesses and vices of mtinkind to their purpose. When all class- es of people take their opinions chiefly upon trust and pass them on, like empty buckets, it must be an object with our teachers to- se- cure the source whence their opinions are drawn — or rather to be that source. To a people so passionately fond of titular distinction, our estahlishment would be very defective if it did not hold out that species of attraction. I would therefore recommend that a musselman College be established in the first instance, with power to confer de- grees of D.D. S.T.D. L. L. D. &c. &c. Perhaps an order of Mouhhammed would be ^^neflcial, its members to be distinguishetl •^ynjedals, ribbands, stars, &c. Public 118 processions' would also be found to be of ad- vantage, and public days, upon which a hopeful convert might be appointed to deliv- er a discourse. This di•^tinction would not be thrown away on him, and would besides tend to produce good dispositions in others. Having secured the city, the next object would be the university. 1 his is of pri- mary importance, and would not hold out long after the former had joined us. So far, I think, we may calculate upon success with confidence. But whether it would attend us into the neighbouring coun- try I am not prepared to say. We should there encounter quite different materials — a sturdy, sincere and thoughtful people — more attached to their prejudices and relig- ion, with less taste for the blandisments of wealth, and less liberal, than their brethren of the metropolis. It is doubtful whether we should be able to make any considerable impression upon them until we are strong enough to bring interest to our aid. With this we might expect that our creed would work at least as great wonders as do their political creeds when seconded by the sam*^ powerful ally. 119 The next inquiry is, when is the most fav- orable time to c'dny our plans into execution? To this I answer confidently notv is the time. The present is perhaps the most favorable time for our purpose that has occured for these fif'ty years. The divisions among the Christians have been already mentioned. Their dissentions are not confined to this city. They extend through the country, tecarcely a week passes but the belligerent parties assail each other from the press or pulpit, at one time in the shape of a Triangle, at another in the form of reviews or seals for controversies. The state of irritation pro- duced by this warfare can be easly imagined. And a change that will restore harmony is doubtless considered a desideratum by all sober and reflecting spectators. Such a change we should offer them. To those who are offended with the fanaticism of one party or the levity and affectation of the other, we should offer simplicity, sincerity, solemnity, truth ! . Again, another idea — iho, present moment must be seized if we wish to avail ourselves of the religious interregnum produced by the clashing of opinions among the Chris- tians, If their altercations or innovations ISO have loosened their faith m^ shaken their reverence for their Book, we should surely be unwise not to step in and take advantage of this state of things. If we delay, their present nnfixedness of opinion will subside into old prejudices, or give way to new ones — and thus the door be closed upon us for ever, for ever ! As to the advantages to be derived fi'om turning this flourishing part of the world to the Faith little need be said. They would be immeasurable. In this city, especially, the minds of men would be cleansed and renovated. Instead of their present vitiated and decayed moral povf ers that are incapable of discerning right from wrong, except by the gross and sordid tact of profit or disprotit, the people would acquire a clearness and rectitude of judgment worthy of human na- ture and the true religion. The blessed influences would not be con- fined to the higher classes, the lower orders would come in for a large share. The com- mon people instead of being excluded from our mosques as they are from the churches by Christian devices, should have especial attention paid to them, with pressing invita- tion to attend our worship. This policy, 121 besides attaching to us a large and valuable portion of the population, would evince to the woi*ld the superiorit y of felamiom ^cr Christianity, in sincerity, truth, and a tender regard for the human species. But the great and unspeakable blessing of our faith would be reserved for the female sex. Their condition would undergo an entire revolution. No longer the victims of fashion and opinion — no longer would a large proportion of the sex be doomed to languish in celibacy and held up to ridicule for imputed characteristicks. Under the liberal and truly paternal religion of the Prophet, they would all be matrimonially provided for. And thus the introduction of the true f^iith would tend to improve the morals of the city and add largely to the comfort and happiness of society. These effects would he most conspicuous in the condition of females of the lower classes. These, at least such as are unmarried, are here mostly employed in menial occupations,. and consequently exposed to every species of temptation. Hence the wide spread pros-- titution that defiles this city and this laiuL, Qur purer faith, by bettering the education 11 of that sex, would put away the foul disgrace from the land. And now that our purpose may prosper and succeed, pray to God most mighty, king of the world, giver of all good things. Oh I that a new world may be given to the Prophet of prophets^ and learn to praise God! ISS CONTEJVTS OF CHAPTERS OMITTED. CHAP. V. Ali Bey visits Castle I4and, and others in Boston harbour Descripti m of forts Independence^ Warren and Strong Charlestown — Burnt by the British in 4775 — Breed^s hill — Account of the battle upon it — Bravery of the Americans on that occasion — Query if their descendants have inherited that trait? — JVavyYard — Amer- lean JVavy — State Prison, CHAP. vi. State of learning in America — In Boston — Of the talents of Bostonians — ,]\rot coV" redly appreciated, owing to the exagger- ation of friendship — Their education-^ •^Tot tending to liberalize the mind — Their propensity to follow a dictator-^Causes of this proppnsity Early associations- — Habits of deference — Mental inferiority — Their fondness for titles — Cause of this fondness, CHAP. VII. The author attends the Courts of Judicature Mode of trying causes — Pref 'ruble to that of Morocco — The Judges — Lawyers--^ 1S4 Their countprfeited zeal — TJieir hofneli^ address and bald eloquence — Theirtalents — Ill directed — Their learning — On the decline-^- Their stuiies — Contract the mind and vitiate the reasoning powers — The ju- ry — Its functions — ^N*othing like it in mus- SMlman countries — Qiierij could it not he mtroduced? — Much valued hy Americans, CHAP. VIIT, Geology of Boston and its neighborhood — Botany — And minerals — Latitude of Bos- ton ascertained — Longitude from the oh- servatory of Paris ^ CHAP. IX. Jtccount of the Government o^ Massachusetts — Jfs officers Chosen annually The Governor — His character — Held in high estimation — Has been distinguished as a soldier — The authox is introduced to him — Opinion of him raised by the intervieia '^The legislature — Its enormous number . — Its debates — Theory of rejiresentation ^^Fanciful — Folice of Boston, END. JjM