.5 VISITORS' GUIDE BOOK F 158 TO INCLUDING THE POINTS OF HISTORICAL INTEREST, HOTELS, MUNICIPAL AND FEDERAL BUILDINGS, COLLEGES. LIBRARIES, MUSEUMS. HOSPITALS, ASYLUMS, PARKS, PLACES OF AMUSEMENT, CLUBS, COMMERCIAL AND MER- CANTILE ORGANIZATIONS, CHURCHES AND THE GREAT INDUSTRIAL PLANTS PUBLISHED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. VISITORS' GUIDE BOOK TO PHILADELPHIA Including the Points of Historical Interest, Hotels, Municipal and Federal Buildings, Colleges, Libra- ries, Museums, Hospitals, Asylums, Parks, Places of Amusement, Clubs, Commercial and Mercantile Organ- izations, Churches and the Great Industrial Plants BY CHARLES ]>;[ORRIS Author of "Historical Tales," "Half-Hours with American History," Etc. WITH MAP AND ILLUSTRATIONS PUBLISHED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS PHILADELPHIA, PENNA. r/. COPYRIGHT, I916, BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY ©CI,A4313'<;7 JUL 19 1916 PRINTED BY J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY AT THE WASHINGTON SQUARE PRESS PHILADELPHIA, U. 8. A. «y> ?^ CONTENTS PAGE 1. Situation, Advantages and Colonial History of the Quaker City 1 2. Philadelphia the Foster Parent of American Independence ... 11 3. Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century 23 4. Historical Buildings and Sites in Philadelphia 28 5. Relics of Old Colony Days 33 6. The Philadelphia of To-day 41 7. The Unrivalled Fairmount Park 50 8. Centers of Municipal Activities 59 9. Federal Institutions in Philadelphia 69 10 Philadelphl^ as a College Town 77 11. Medical Schools, Hospitals, and Asylums 87 12. Libraries and Museums 98 13. Academies and Institutions of Science and Art 104 14. Places of Amusement in Philadelphia . . : 110 15. The City's Central District 115 16. Clubs, Hotels, Churches and Cemeteries 120 17. Great Industrial Plants of Philadelphia 127 18. Commercial and Mercantile Organizations 135 19. The New Philadelphia in Progress 139 20. The Metropolis of Pennsylvania 144 ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE City Hall from Northeast 4 Fraxklin Statue at University 7 Carpenters' Hall 12 Independence Hall 13 Liberty Bell 15 United States Mint 20 Betsy Ross House 22 Penn's House 33 Old Swedes' Church 35 Christ Church Towards the x\ltar 37 Reading Terminal 43 Arnold's Mansion, Fairmount Park 51 Cowboy Statue, Fairmount Park 55 The Stone Age, Fairmount Park 55 The Smith Memorial, Fairmount Park 55 Lincoln Monument, Fairmount Park 56 Grant's Cabin, Fairmount Park 56 Basaltic Columns, Giants' Causeway, Ireland, Fairmount Park. . 56 Japanese Pagoda, Fairmount Park 56 Memorial Hall, Fairmount Park 57 Horticultural Hall, Fairmount Park 57 Statue of William Penn in Plaza of City Hall 60 Custom House 70 Post Office Building 71 College Hall, University of Pennsylvania 78 Engineering Building of University of Pennsylvania 78 Dental Hall, University of Pennsylvania 78 Law School, University of Pennsylvania 79 Houston Hall, University of Pennsylvania 79 Intersection of East and West Quadrangle, University of Penn- sylvania Dormitories 80 vi ILLUSTRATIONS East Quadrangle, University of Pennsylvania Dormitories 80 GiRARD College 82 Medical Building, University of Pennsylvania 88 Evans Dental Hall 88 Gymnasium, University of Pennsylvania 88 Veterinary Department of University of Pennsylvania 89 Metropolitan Opera House Ill Masonic Temple 117 Lu Lu Temple 117 Union League 121 Manufacturers' Club , 121 HILt^ELPHIA '..^-^-^ 1 Vc; ll|!l| iljito! .j,,^ 3g^, -M' 1^ If' •ir-iiw. '•v.'i 1" • " ^ w Situation, Advantages and Colonial History of the Quaker City. On the banks of the noble Delaware, ninety-six miles from the ocean, stands the famous Quaker City, third in the United States, ninth in the world, in population, and in certain respects ranking among the first of them all. Thus, in some of its industries it has no rival, while as a city of small and comfortable homes for its working people it stands above any other upon the earth. A dream of beauty in its environs, an unsurpassed mart of industry in its manufacturing section, and a realm of commodious homes in its residence districts, the people of Philadelphia have every reason to be proud of the Metropolis of Pennsylvania to which their active and intelligent labors have given rise. In the year 1681, when the English king, Charles II, sold to William Penn a great tract of land which he did 2 SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY not own, it presented a very different aspect. Forests covered its site, tenanted only by wandering Indians and a few Swedish farmers who had made small clearings. Only a few hundred settlers, Swedes, Dutch and British, then occupied this portion of the New World, and there was every opportunity to build up the great and free Quaker community which the new proprietor had in mind. Commissioners were sent by him to the Delaware to select a suitable site for the city which he proposed to build. They were told to examine Upland, a Swedish settlement farther down the stream, since known as Chester. But they selected for the proposed city what seemed to them a more available site, some miles to the north. Here a second navigable river, called Schuylkill by the Dutch, ran into the larger stream and seemed to double its opportunities for commerce. When, in the fol- lowing year, Penn sought his new domain in the good ship Welcome, he was highly pleased with the site chosen by his agents, it appearing to him admirably fitted by Nature for the upbuilding of a great city. Let us speak briefly of the reasons for selecting this special locality. Here a high bank bordered the river, from which the land ran back in a broad and nearly level stretch, its greatest height, in the section chosen, being not over forty-six feet above the river level. Bordered on the east by a broad and deep river, and on the west by a second and smaller but navigable stream, the waters of these rivers rapidly widening southward into a broad bay, the place seemed certainly well chosen for the devel- opment of a great commercial port. In the far time spreading out before him the founder may well have seen his infant settlement expanding into a noble center of SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY 3 trade, with ships from all parts of the world lying beside its wharves. He, of course, was unaware of an advan- tage of another kind, that of the great stores of iron and coal hidden in the hills to the north and west, and upon which the future manufacturing eminence of the city was to depend. The new city-founder doubtless thought that he was providing amply for the metropolis he had in view when he laid out a site from river to river two miles in extent, and one mile in width to north and south. It would have been like a dream of Aladdin to fancy a city like that which now exists, 129 square miles in area, 22 miles in extreme length and with a width varying from five to six miles. This is what the two square miles devised by Penn have become. Of course, much the greater part of this broad area is not closely covered with buildings, but its rural section is in a measure occupied by partly de- tached towns and villages, outlying parts of the great city near at hand and the rule of which extends over the whole region. The city laid out by Penn had streets crossing at right angles, based by him, it is said, on the model of ancient Babylon. Those which ran north and south were desig- nated by numbers, those east and west were given the names of forest trees, while a High Street (now Market Street) passed through the center from river to river, and a Broad Street through the center north and south. In the center, where these streets crossed, a square of ten acres was reserved, and squares of eight acres each in the four quarters of the city. Of these squares, the central one has vanished, being now^ occupied by the monumental City Hall. It may further be said that the right-angled 4 SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY plan adopted by Penn has proved a diagonal streets being now strongly remain from old roads, but of great advantage, and these sideration. Such was the plan outlined by the great Quaker which he gave the classical delphia, a Greek title signify- Brotherly Love." A name the same significance is that City," by which it is often title, given it by the i)hilo- defect, the necessity of felt. Several of these others would be are under con- of the city as f o u n d e r, t o name of Phila- ing "City of having m u c h of " Qu aker called. A third sophic Chinese CITY HALL FROM NORTHEAST statesman, Li Hung Chang, is "the City of a Million Smiles," significant of the welcome which Penn's metrop- olis gives to its visitors from all lands. It might, indeed. SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY 5 be further named "the City of Conventions," to judge from another use to which it is largely put. In no city are members of conventions and societies of all kinds more warmly welcomed or comfortably entertained. A brief statement of the colonial history of the city thus amply designated comes next in place. Penn was no ordinary man. In those days, when tyranny, religious bigotry, and cruel punishments for light crimes widely prevailed, he lost no time in giving his people powers of suf- frage and self-government, and complete religious liberty, and cut down the penalty of death for crime to murder and treason. At that time people were hanged in Eng- land for small thefts and various other minor offences. The new city grew with encouraging rapidity. In the fifty years before Penn's arrival few settlers had sought the Delaware. Now they came abundantly, and when Penn returned to England in 1684 there were about 3000 people in the new city and 5000 in the province of Penn- sylvania. These settlers were not all English Friends, or Quakers, as these were derisively termed. Among them were many Germans, part of them Friends, others resem- bling the Friends in some of their religious views. These founded the village of Germantown, then a separate set- tlement, now included in Philadelphia. When William Penn again visited his city, fifteen years later, he was surprised and delighted by the evidences of growth and prosperity he saw on all sides. He had left a city of about 600 houses, he returned to one of more than 2000, and so full of new faces that he felt almost like a stranger. His recent life in England had been one of much trouble, and he now proposed to spend the re- mainder of his life in Pennsylvania. He had a fine coun- 6 SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY try seat built on a tract of land above Bristol, on the Delaware, calling it Pennsbury and proposing to live there in a style fitting his station. Yet he was obliged to return to London after a two years' stay, and was unable to visit America again. Before going he gave the prov- ince a new and ver^^ liberal code of laws, bringing his col- ony into better order than that into which it had fallen. New settlers had come in numbers, among them many Welsh, who settled in the country west of the Schuylkill, which became known as the Welsh Tract. Many more Germans had arrived, of various religious sects, these mak- ing their way into the country to the north, where their descendants still preserve their old language, oddly mixed with English words, and are known as "Pennsylvania Dutch." At a later date another class of settlers came, those known as Scotcji-Irish, who pushed to the western frontier ; a combative people, who were soon fighting alike with wild beasts and wild Indians. Persecution at home had had much to do with the coming of these various classes of settlers. To them were later added some of the equally persecuted French Huguenots, though few of these came to Pennsylvania. Meanwhile the city grew and prospered. A postal ser- vice was early established. Education was attended to, a Friends' Public Grammar School being founded in 1689. This still exists as the William Penn Charter School. Philadelphia was chartered as a city in 1701, shortly be- fore Penn's final return to England. In 1718, when Wil- liam Penn died, his colony, then thirty-six years of age, was in a very prosperous condition, immigrants coming in such numbers that Pennsylvania grew faster than any of the other colonies. Trade developed until the Delaware SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY 7 presented a busy scene, vessels coming and going in num- bers, while business was active, land cheap, and the streets vital with stirring life. In 1723 a Boston boy named Benjamin Franklin, then seventeen years of age, came to Philadelphia, tramping across New Jersey with shoulders, and a brain bly as he came, he was leading part in the his- of the country as well, with his doings as a here concerned. Buy- cessf ul paper, the Penn- 1729, he soon made its Richard's Almanac, lished by him, became a wide celebrity. As a pack upon his full of ideas. Hum- destined to play a tory of the city, and It is, however, only citizen that we are ing out an unsuc- sylvania Gazette, in influence felt. "Poor subsequently pub- famous and gave him time went on he ^ ^^^Hjj^Hpr;:'*' :t = >^M:^:;,,,,.>.r-,3^'-!»l^|||P|^|^^- ■ FRANKLIN STATUE AT UNIVERSITY 8 SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY warmly fostered every project for the good of the city. Inducing his friends to bring their books to a central hall, where all might use them, he laid the foundation of the famous and prosperous Philadelphia Library. The American Philosophical Society, originated by him in 1743, is the oldest scientific institution in America. Other great institutions projected or fostered by him were the University of Pennsylvania and the Pennsylvania Hospital. All of these notable institutions arose out of his varied enterprises for the good of his adopted city, the prog- ress of which he also helped in other ways. One of his useful acts was that in which he pleaded the cause of the people against the descendants of William Penn, whom he forced to permit the taxation of their estates on the same terms as those of other people. This fight for equal rights and obligations had gone on for many years and Franklin's success in it won him a fame that spread throughout the country. Philadelphia had long ceased to be distinctively a Quaker city. It had grown cosmopolitan in population, and the administration of municipal duties, long in the hands of the Friends, gradually passed from their con- trol. In 1756 they were defeated in the Assembly and never regained their power. They still, however, exerted an influence in city affairs. The city was meanwhile growing steadily in population and importance and in time became regarded as the leading American municipality. We know little about its details of population, but at the close of the Revolution it was credited with about 6,000 houses and 40,000 inhabitants. It was then a century old, but had by no means as yet occupied the area laid out for it by its founder. In fact, it clung to the vicinity of SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY 9 the Delaware, extending along and near its banks, but not expanding rapidly westward. Broad Street still lay considerably beyond the built-up portion and Second Street was the chief retail business street. A city of the size of colonial Philadelphia would not be thought much of in our day, but at that period it was the largest city in America and its supremacy was widely acknowledged. Its citizens included various men of wide fame in science and literature. Benjamin Franklin, in the signal experiment by which he brought lightning from the clouds and proved it to be electricity, gave Philadel- phia a high standing in science, which was added to by the fine work done by David Rittenhouse in astronomy, the improvement of the quadrant by Thomas Godfrey, and the splendid achievements in botany of John Bar- tram, called by Linnaeus "the greatest natural botanist in the world. " In literature Franklin gave it a standing by his "Poor Richard's Almanac" and his "Autobiog- raphy," much the finest literary production of colonial America. Another man of literary note was the learned James Logan, who collected a library of about 3,000 vol- umes, a large private collection for that day. This col- lection is now a choice treasure of the Philadelphia Li- brary. The Revolutionary period called forth the efforts of several able writers, chief among them being Thomas Paine, whose "Common Sense" and "Crisis" were so admirably adapted to the spirit of the time. The only able colonial author outside of Philadelphia was Jona- than Edwards, who wrote solely on theological themes. That Philadelphia was then regarded as the American metropolis was shown in the action of the Albany Con- gress of 1754, held with the purpose of uniting the colonies 10 SITUATION, ADVANTAGES, COLONIAL HISTORY in defence against the French. Franklin's plan for the union of the colonies, accepted by the convention, named Philadelphia for the capital of the proposed confederacy, proposing to make it the seat of a legislature elected by the colonies and a governor -general appointed by the king. The mutual jealousy of the British authorities and the colonial assemblies prevented the adoption of this plan, but it pointed forward to the choice of Philadelphia as the capital of the country, which it practically became in 1774, twenty years later. FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE 11 2. Philadelphia the Foster Parent of American Independence A convention, now known as the Stamp-Act Congress, which made an earnest appeal to the British king for the rights of the colonists, was held in New York in 1765. But when the continued oppressive acts of the British government gave rise to a spirit of rebellion in the Amer- ican colonies, and a Continental Congress was elected to deal with the critical situation, Philadelphia was chosen as the most fitting place for its sessions. This made the Quaker City the practical capital of colonial America, a position which it maintained, with a few intermissions, over colonies and nation, for a quarter of a century later. The place of meeting of this pioneer American Con- gress was in Carpenters' Hall, a structure built for the Carpenters' Company, an association of builders and architects, but made use of for various other purposes. This First Continental Congress continued in session from September 5 to October 26, 1774, and made an earnest appeal to the king to redress the wrongs of the colonies. Addresses were also sent to the people of Great Britain, Canada and the colonies, and a declaration of rights was issued, proposing to stop all trade with the mother country and put an end to the slave trade, then fostered for the benefit of British shippers. Before ad- journing, it provided for the election of another Congress, to meet May 10, 1775. The First Continental Congress met in a country at peace; the Second met in a country at war. The people n FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE had been fired on by the British soldiers at Lexington, New England was in arms, and the garrison at Boston was under siege by the Minute Men of Massachusetts. The historical position of the new Congress was, therefore, very different from that of its predecessor. Meeting in ^i^Sffl^^n*^ the old Phila- CARPEXTERS HALL delphia State House, now famous as Independence Hall, it took a strong hold of the situation. While still rec- ognizing George HI as the "rightful sovereign" of the American colonies, it assumed control of the siege of Bos- ton, chose George Washington as commander-in-chief of FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE 13 14 FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE the army, ordered the issue of two miUion dollars in paper money, and took steps to enlist recruits. It was distinctly defiant of its "rightful sovereign." From that time forward until 1800 Philadelphia was the capital of the new country, except for the periods in which Congress temporarily left that city, Washington being inaugurated in 1789 in New York. In June, 1776, the Congress took decisive action; a committee being appointed to prepare a form of confederation for the States, by which title the colonies now became known. It went further than this. Richard Henry Lee, a delegate from Virginia, offered the ringing resolution "that these United Colonies are, and of right ought to be, Free and Independent States." This resolution was followed by the famous Declaration of Independence, drawn up by Thomas Jefferson, another Virginian, and adopted on July 2 by the vote of twelve colonies (New York not voting). Its final and formal adoption took place on July 4, when it was signed by John Hancock, President of Congress, in a bold hand which, he said, "the King of England can read without spectacles." With the adop- tion and signing of this document the United Colonies ceased to exist; the United States was born; Philadelphia had been raised to eminence as the foster parent of a new nation, one destined to rank among the greatest upon the earth. That the Liberty Bell was rung on that occasion, to advise the people of the signal act of Congress, remains a legend, but an agreeable one. There is no doubt that it was rung on July 8, when the Declaration was publicly read to the people in the State House yard, the old bell then "proclaiming liberty throughout all the land and to all the inhabitants thereof." FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE 15 The next duty devolving upon Congress was that of preparing a form of government for the Confederated States. For this purpose a system of government entitled "Articles of Confederation" was drawn up, and submit- LIBERTY BELL ted to the new-born States for approval. It was grad- ually adopted, Maryland being the last to ratify it, Janu- ary 31, 1781. Until that time the Second Continental Congress continued in existence. On March 2, 1781, the first Congress under the Confederation met, Philadelphia being still recognized as the seat of government. 16 FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE Philadelphia played another interesting part in the Revolution, being taken by the British and occupied by them from September, 1777, to June, 1778, Congress has- tily adjourning, at first to Lancaster, then to York. Other hasty steps were taken, the Liberty Bell being removed to Allen town and hid under the church floor, the state archives sent to Easton, and the bells of the several churches car- ried away or sunk in the river. There are interesting incidents connected with the occupation. On October 4 Washington attacked the British camp at German town, but lost the battle through the British vigorous defense of the famous Chew House and confusion due to fog. Valley Forge, where Washington afterwards established his winter quarters, has become the most famous historic place in the vicinity of Philadelphia, being now laid out as a park, with all its interesting features clearly indi- cated and appropriate buildings erected. Another event was that ridiculed by Francis Hopkin- son, the Revolutionary poet, in his well-known ballad, "The Battle of the Kegs. " A number of kegs, filled with explosives, were set afloat on the river and drifted down among the ships of the British fleet, which they were designed to destroy. Their character was discovered and they were briskly cannonaded, everything afloat being pounded with cannon balls. Nothing came of the inci- dent but an occasion for laughter at the expense of the invaders. In the following spring the departure of General Howe, who had been superseded by General Clinton, was made the occasion for a brilliant fete in the Quaker City, in- cluding a showy regatta, a gay street parade, an even- ing tournament, fireworks, dancing and feasting. In the FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE 17 midst of all this the revellers were startled by the brisk sound of distant cannon. "It is part of the festivities," said the officers to their partners in the dance. But it was more than that. A daring American cavalry oflScer, knowing what was going on within the city, had sought in the darkness the long redoubts reaching from river to river, painted them lib- erably with tar and set them on fire. The flames shot up fiercely, the British cannon were fired into the dark- ness, but the bold scouts escaped unharmed. Such was the warlike close of the famous Mischianza. The occupation of Philadelphia did not last much longer. Congress had, through the agency of Benjamin Franklin, made an alliance with France, and it was pos- sible that the British ships might at any time be locked up in the Delaware by a French fleet. Fearing this, the admirals and captains hastened away with their war ves- sels, and the army, left without support, quickly vacated the city, hotly pursued by Washington. Congress came back and all went on as before. In 1783 Congress again migrated from its native city. This was due to a meeting of soldiers at Lancaster, who marched to Philadelphia, declaring that, though the war was over, they had not been paid. They marched around the State House, where Congress was in session. The Congressmen, deeming this an intolerable insult, left the city in indignation, proceeding to Princeton. After the affair was over they refused to return, and Philadelphia ceased its function as a capital until 1790. But it did not lose its prominence, it becoming, in fact, a capital in a new and broader sense in 1787. The xArticles of Confederation, adopted at Philadelphia in 1776 and by 18 FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE the States in 1781, had proved unfit to serve the purposes of the country in times of peace. Congress, under them, had almost no power, and in 1787 a convention was called to see in what way they could be improved. This body, since known as the Constitutional Convention, and recog- nized as one of the greatest events in the history of the country, held its sessions in the old State House at Phila- delphia, Washington officiating as its president. Within it was born the famous Constitution of the United States, that great body of fundamental laws which shares the honor with the Declaration of Independence of being one of the ablest state papers in the history of the world, it forming the body of democratic political princi- ples under which the United States has grown to its present proud eminence. By July 4, 1788, ten states had ratified the action of the Convention and the Constitution had become the organic law of the land. This fact was celebrated by the great- est procession ever seen in Philadelphia up to that time, the "Good Ship Constitution" forming its leading feature. A centennial celebration of this event was held in Phila- delphia in 1887, when it was commemorated by a series of grand processions, lasting three days, including a grand industrial display and a magnificent military parade. We have not completed the story of Philadelphia's prominence in the historical evolution of our country. Washington, elected the first President of the United States, was inaugurated in New York, to which city the peripatetic Congress had made its way. But the claims of Philadelphia could not be ignored, and one of the first acts of the new Congress, elected under the Constitution, was to select it as the national capital, a proud position FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE 19 which it was to hold from 1790 to 1800, when a new capi- tal city, built on the banks of the Potomac, was to become the center of government. Thus during the last decade of the eighteenth century Penn's city was the governing seat and political center of the United States. It stood first in population, commerce, manufacture and finance and had also grown active in literature, various news- papers and magazines being published. The "White House" of that day, the residence of President Washington and the executive seat of gov- ernment, was the home of Robert Morris, the patriotic financier, on Market Street east of Sixth; while the ses- sions of Congress were held in Congress Hall, at the corner of Sixth and Chestnut Streets, the Senate occupy- ing the second, the House of Representatives the first floor. Independence Hall was then occupied by the State legislature, the building at the corner of Fifth and Chest- nut being used as the City Hall. Philadelphia thus had the honor of being the seat of oflSce, during his two terms, of President Washington, the greatest and most revered of Americans. He was succeeded in oflSce by John Adams, the final year of whose term was spent in the new capital on the banks of the Potomac. The solid foundation of our great republic was laid in this first American capital. In 1781 Robert Morris, Min- ister of Finance, established the Bank of North America, the first financial corporate institution in America, which is still in prosperous existence. In 1791 Alexander Hamil- ton, the first Secretary of the Treasury, founded the Bank of the United States, an institution which aided greatly in lifting the country out of the financial de- 20 FOSTER P.IRENT OF INDEPENDENCE FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE 21 pressioii into which it had sunk. A United States Mint was also founded, and since that date the great bulk of the coin of the country has been made in Philadelphia. A notable enterprise of this period was the building of the Lancaster Turnpike, the first stone roadway in America and long the pride of the State. Of still higher importance was the discovery of the great deposit of anthracite coal in Pennsylvania, though many years were to pass before this fuel came into general use. In 1791 the University of Pennsylvania was founded by the combination of two earlier institutions. A few years earlier, in 1787, the College of Physicians had come into existence and begun its work of making Philadelphia the leading center of medical science. These are the chief claims of Philadelphia to historical eminence. They are not the only ones. The Quaker City had also the honor of being the seat of the earliest efforts at steam navigation and railway travel. Oliver Evans, an engineer of Philadelpln'a, was the first to try steam travel on land. He moved a steam carriage a short dis- tance as early as 178*2, and a more successful one in 1804. He lost all his money in efforts to build steam engines for use on Lancaster Pike. In 1804 he ran a paddle-wheel steamboat down the Schuylkill and up the Delaware to Beverly and returned. Steamboat travel, however, had an earlier origin in Philadelphia through the efforts of John Fitch, who was ex- perimenting on the Delaware at the same time that James Runisey was engaged in similar experiments in Virginia. Fitch's first steamboat was tried in 1786. By 1790 he had produced a boat that ran under steam power from Philadelphia to Burlington in three and a half hours. FOSTER PARENT OF INDEPENDENCE With this he made regular trips, at times running at seven miles an hour. But this boat, moved by a sort of oar or paddle motion, gave him so much trouble that he finally abandoned it in despair. Thus Fitch and Evans were making pio- neer efforts at steam travel on the Delaware years before Fulton suc- ceeded on the Hudson. There is another event which must be spoken of here, the origin of the American flag, the Stars and Stripes of American honor. Congress, then in session at Philadelphia, adopted this as the na- tional banner in June, 1777, the first flag, bear- ing thirteen stars and thirteen stripes, to rep- resent the thirteen orig- inal states, being made by Betsy Ross, then living on Arch Street, Philadelphia. The new flag was first displayed in the harbor of Phila- delphia at the masthead of the Ranger, the ship of Paul Jones, who was to carry it to victory in the following year. BETSY ROSS HOUSE IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 23 3. Philadelphia in the Nineteenth Century. In the preceding sections the history of Philadelphia has been brought down to the year 1800, the year in which it lost its political prominence through the removal of the United States capital to Washington, the new city on the Potomac. It had also ceased to be the State capital in favor of a more central position, Lancaster being made the capital in 1799 and Harrisburg in 1810. But it remained the industrial, commercial and literary center of the country for a longer period. With a population of 70,000 in 1800, it had definitely entered upon that career of manufacturing activity for which it has since continued famous. The position of the city in the close vicinity of the world's chief supply of anthracite coal, with an abundance of iron within easy reach, gave it special advantages, which were utilized in the development of its array of great workshops, some of them destined to become the greatest in the world. Commerce was also active, Philadelphia being at that time America's leading center of trade. In fact, not only before the Revolution, but down to the period of the Civil W'ar, this city had a flourishing commerce, its many clipper ships, barges and brigs dealing largely with all parts of the world, especially with the West Indies, and to an important extent with the East Indies. Many enterprising merchants engaged in this commerce, among whom may be specially named Stephen Girard, famous for his wealth and enterprise. Active efforts to regain a fair portion of this trade are now in operation, including the deepening of the Delaware and the building of an M IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY ample array of wharves and docks. The Delaware and Schuylkill, including the Camden side of the former, have the extensive water frontage of thirty-eight miles, great part of which is still unutilized. The city has at present steamship service to all the leading ports of Europe and those of the south Atlantic, and the years to come will be sure to see a large increase in this traffic. The Athens of America. — While thus active in busi- ness, Philadelphia maintained its position as the leading seat of literature in America, some of its writers proudly naming it "The Athens of America." Though the char- acter of the literature produced did not warrant this boast, Philadelphia was the home of the ablest colonial and later writers. Charles Brockden Brown, the first American novel- ist, was a Philadelphian, of Quaker descent, and for years a leading figure in American literature. Joseph Dennie, founder in 1801 of the "Portfolio," also became widely known, and other writers of note kept up the reputation which the city had won in earlier years. Various magazines succeeded those of colonial date, the voluminous "Rees's Cyclopedia" was reprinted by an enterprising Philadelphia publisher, and Wilson brought out in 1808 the first volume of his famous "Ornithology," illustrated with pictures drawn by him with great care and exactness. Audubon, who resided in the vicinity of Philadelphia, began his first journej^s for the study of birds in 1810. Financially Penn's city had reason to claim a national record. One of its citizens, Robert Morris, was the chief financier of the Revolution and did noble work in aid of Washington's famishing armies. In the war of 1812-14 another Philadelphian, Stephen Girard, came to the aid of the impoverished government, lending it large sums IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 25 on favorable terms. Finally, in the Civil War period, Jay Cooke, a third Philadelphia financier, became the fiscal agent of the government in placing its war loans. Philadelphia was slow in occupying the narrow limits laid out by Penn, its people finding it to their advantage to keep near the Delaware. But there grew up around it a number of prosperous suburbs, sufficient in population to add largely to its citizenship. These l)ore the various names of Southwark, Moyamensing, Spring Garden, Northern Liberties, Kensington, North Penn and Rich- mond, while beyond the Schuylkill were the boroughs of West Philadelphia and Belmont. At a greater distance were Germantown and Manayunk. The consolidation of these with the city began in 1850, when its population was about 360,000. This work was completed in 1854, the city limits being extended to embrace the entire county. Since that date the growth has been rapid and continuous, until the population has now mounted to about one and three-quarter millions. Near to and largely dependent upon the city, practically forming a portion of it, are suburban towns of many additional thousands of population. In fact, the cities and boroughs of which Philadelphia may claim to be the metropolitan center have a further population of 900,000. Could William Penn look down upon his city to-day he would perceive a sea of buildings, spreading over many square miles. Instead of a wilderness of trees he would see a wilderness of dwellings, crowded with a busy popu- lation, together with great industrial, financial, mercan- tile, and other edifices, a center of civic life ranking as the third in the United States and the ninth in the world, and one which, in some of its activities, claims rank as the first. 26 IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY It is a city which has justly won the title of "The City of Homes," since it has within its limits more houses occu- pied by their owners than any other city in the world. Its number of separate residences is stated as more than 350,000, while New York has fewer than 150,000 one- family houses. These include broad expanses of neat and comfortable two-story houses, provided with con- veniences formerly found only in the mansions of the wealthy. Among these the bath-room is an essential feature from the point of view of high civilization. Of these the city claims more than 350,000, while twenty public bathing places help to serve the needs of the poorer sections. To the number of buildings mentioned as dwellings may be added some 50,000 built for other pur- poses, Philadelphia having about 400,000 separate build- ings, more than any other city in the United States. Coming to the other feature in which it has gained eminence, those of its special industries, it may be said that in textile manufacture Philadelphia is to-day the leading city in the world. It has the largest lace factory and some of the largest carpet factories, while it holds first rank in knit goods, rugs, and felt hats. The Baldwin locomotive works, with a capacity for eight locomotives a day, has no rival in the world. Since 1710 Penn's city has led in American shipbuilding, and the two great ship- yards of its port, Cramp's in Kensington and the New Y^ork Shipbuilding Company in Gloucester, have given the Delaware a just claim to the title of "The Clyde of America." Other lines of industry in which this city stands pre-eminent are the making of street cars, the manufacture of oil-cloth, linoleum, saws, sporting and athletic goods, upholstery goods and various other arti- IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 27 cles. It holds second place in women's clothing, milli- nery, paper goods, woollen goods, and sugar refining. In addition it covers every field of metal work, useful and ornamental, it has no superior in fine furniture, it yields one-third of the umbrellas and parasols of the country, and it has long been active in publication, while its com- mercial printing trade occupies 250 plants, with an annual output of $10,G00,000. Such is Philadelphia industrially, one of the leading manufacturing cities of the world, and in many fields of industry the leading city in America. "The largest industrial city in America" it was called by the French Trade Commission, on its visit here in December, 1915,with a view of reopening trade after the war. 28 HISTORICAL BUILDINGS AND SITES 4. Historical Buildings and Sites in Philadelphia. The famous edifices in this country having to do with the struggle for independence and the origin of the United States as a nation are chiefly confined to two cities, Boston and Philadelphia. Those in Boston are related to the events preceding the outbreak of the Revolution. Those concerned with the birth and early growth of the great republic are confined to Philadelphia. A descriptive sketch of these time-honored historic buildings is here in place. Independence Hall. — Chief among these relics of his- tory is noble old Independence Hall, a fine example of colonial arcliitecture, standing on Chestnut Street, between Fifth and Sixth Streets, where it has long been the Mecca of patriotic Americans. This most famous of American edi- fices was built as a State House for the province of Phila- delphia. The Assembly had previously met in Quaker meeting houses and private residences and felt the need of a home of its own. Work was begun upon this well- designed structure in 173^2 and it was completed in 1741, some finishing touches being given in 1745. In 1750 a staircase was ordered to be added and also a belfry in which a bell might be hung. This arose from the fact that it had been the custom to call the members together by ringing a bell, those who failed to appear within half an hour being fined " a tenpenny bit." This tocsin call could readily be heard throughout the Philadelphia of that day. The Liberty Bell. — A bell for this purpose, one fitting the dignified structure in which it was to hang, was ordered from London, to bear the significant inscription: "Proclaim liberty throughout all the land, to all the inhabitants thereof." This seems prophetic in view of the fact that HISTORICAL BUILDINGS AND SITES 29 this is what the bell did in 1776, when it rang out the tidings that a ''Declaration of Independence" had been passed by the Continental Congress and clanged defiance to King George and his hordes. To this it owes its title of "Liberty Bell," and this fact has made it the most loved and hon- ored of American historical treasures. Though its abiding place is in Independence Hall, it has on several special occasions been sent throughout the country to be seen and honored by those less favored than the citizens of Philadelphia. The last of these occasions was its visit to the San Francisco Panama Exi)osition of 1915, in which journey it is said to have been warmly greeted by 20,000,000 American citizens. No other country pos- sesses so highly venerated a relic as this noble old bell, whose vibrant tongue first sent forth the message of American liberty. The old bell has had its history. Received from Eng- land in 1752, its tone proved unsatisfactory and it was recast in Philadelphia in 1753. Thus in every respect it is of Philadelphia origin. Its voice was finally heard in 1835, at the time of the funeral of Chief Justice John Marshall, when the old bell cracked and became dumb forever. The increase in this crack has caused much apprehension as to its safety, and it may possibly have made its last journey around the country. Independence Hall, in the corridor of w^hich the Liberty Bell now rests in a suitable glass case, has been recently restored, and will hereafter be kept in its original state. The fine assembly room in which sat the Continental Congress when the Declaration was passed and signed has been fitted up with much of its old furniture of chairs and desks, while portraits of most of the members hang 30 HISTORICAL BUILDINGS AND SITES upon its walls. On the second floor is also a large collec- tion of historical portraits, together with Benjamin West's picture of "Penn's Treaty with the Indians." The treaty elm, under whose boughs tradition placed this treaty, fell in 1810, and a stone monument now marks the spot, the locality having been converted into a public square. Congress Hall. — Flanking Independence Hall, and connected with it by a series of public offices — now used as museums of colonial and Revolutionary relics — are two buildings, the old City Hall at the corner of Fifth Street, and at the corner of Sixth Street the edifice known as Congress Hall, the Capitol of the United States from 1790 to 1800. This handsome colonial edifice has recently been restored to its original condition, that which it pos- sessed when Washington was inaugurated there in 1793 and John Adams in 1797. These events took place in the room of the House of Representatives. The struct- ures named, so full of significance to American citizens, are open to visitors, and no patriotic American visits Philadelphia without treading their sacred halls and pay- ing due reverence to the venerated Liberty Bell. Back of this series of buildings lies Independence Square, attrac- tive for flowers and trees, and for its memories of historic events. Its one work of art is a statue of Commodore John Barry, famous for a daring naval feat in Delaware Bay when the British were in possession of Philadelphia in 1778. Carpenters' Hall. — From the south side of Chestnut Street, midway between Third and Fourth, an open court yields a glimpse of a small and plain brick building which stands far back from the street. This quaint edifice is of high historical renown, it being that famous Carpenters' Hall in which in 1774 the First Continental Congress HISTORICAL BUILDINGS AND SITES 31 held its sessions, and in which the United States had its foundation timbers laid. Originally built by the Carpenters' Company for society uses, the walls of this building heard the famous "First prayer in Congress," by Parson Duche, and here, as one inscription on its wall testifies, "Henry, Hancock and Adams inspired the delegates of the Colonies with Nerve and Sinew for the Toils of War." Here also, in the fol- lowing spring, the Pennsylvania Assembly elected Benja- min Franklin a delegate to the Second Continental Con- gress. Carpenters' Hall was afterwards used as a hospital for sick soldiers, and has also been occupied by the Phila- delphia Library, the Bank of Pennsylvania, and the Land Office of the United States. In a more recent period it was used for less important purposes and finally degen- erated into an auction room. Then the Carpenters' Com- pany became once more patriotic, restored the building to its original state, and now keeps it as a sacred relic, its walls being hung with interesting mementos of "the times that tried men's souls." Of the house in which Jefferson wrote the famous Declaration of Independence only the site remains, and of this we are not quite sure, though a tablet on the build- ing on the southwest corner of Seventh and Market Streets designates this as the locality. Not faraway from this spot is another historic site of absorbing interest, the famous Betsy Ross house. Betsy Ross House. — The United States flag, the ban- ner of the Stars and Stripes, dear to every American patriot, was adopted in its present form by Congress in June, 1777, after several other flags had been used. Tra- dition tells us that a committee from Congress, with S^2 HISTORICAL BUILDINGS AND SITES whom was Washington, then in Philadelphia, called at the humble residence No. 229 Arch Street, where Elizabeth Ross ("Betsy Ross") then kept an upholstery shop, and asked her to make a sample flag, with thirteen red and white stripes and with a blue field containing thirteen white stars. She quickly saw what was wanted and was not long in constructing the first national flag of the new republic. Of this story we cannot be quite sure, but it is widely accepted, and the Betsy Ross house is one of the highly venerated historic shrines of Philadelphia, especially for its youthful patriots. Franklin's Grave. — Near by, in Christ Church ceme- tery, is another historic shrine, the grave of Benjamin Franklin. This may be seen at the corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, a part of the wall having been removed and replaced by an open railing in order that passers-by may see the plain, flat slab that marks the resting-place of Philadelphia's most distinguished citizen. On the oppo- site corner stands the old meeting house of the Free Quakers (the "Fighting Quakers" of the Revolution). This handsome colonial structure, subsequently occupied by the Apprentices' Library, organized in 1820, has recently been converted into a business house, though still retaining its old architectural aspect. First City Troop. — Another Philadelphia institution of Revolutionary origin, though one of different aspect, is the First Troop Philadelphia City Cavalry, the oldest mili- tary body in the United States, organized in November, 1774, for resistance to Great Britain. Its armory, on 21st Street below Market, has the appearance in its front of a me- diaeval fortress, and the troop is a necessary and spectac- ular feature of any historical celebration in Philadelphia. RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS 33 5. Relics of Old Colony Days. Philadelphia has its historic buildings of an earHer date than those associated with the origin of the repubhc of the United States, these coming down to us from the time PENN S HOUSE when it was really a "Quaker City." While of less interest than those mentioned, these are well worthy of notice. William Penn House. — In- 1682-83, during Penn's first visit to his American province, he had a house built 34 RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS ] for himself which he afterwards made over to his daughter \ Letitia. Her name was later given to the narrow street on which it stood. This, the first brick building in Phila- j delphia, is the oldest edifice now standing in Pennsyl- i vania. A humble dwelling, with few rooms and those of " moderate size, Penn used it as a home, and there appears ; to have held the sessions of his Council, so that it may be > considered the first state house of the colony. This body, j sitting as a court, with William Penn as judge, is said to \ have held in this mansion the first and only trial for witch- l craft in Pennsylvania, the inquiry ending in the acquittal \ of the woman accused. The building has been removed ' to a suitable site in Fair mount Park, near its Girard Ave- ; nue entrance, where it has numerous visitors, and is likely \ to stand for centuries as a birthday memento of the prov- j ince of Pennsylvania. J Penn Charter School. — Second in interest to the i Penn Mansion is the Friends' Public Grammar School, ; chartered in 1689. Though its original building long '> since vanished, this institution still survives, under the ! name of the William Penn Charter School, on Twelfth Street, south of Market. For more than sixty years it : was the only seat of public education in Pennsylvania, '■. and now has the celebrity of being the oldest existing \ chartered school in the United States, and also the largest ■■ boys' day-school of its class in the country. Bartram House and Garden. — Another highh^ inter- j esting locality, dating back for nearly two centuries, is ' the famous Bartram's Garden, located on high ground ; west of the Schuylkill, in the vicinity of the old-time ^ Gray's Ferry. Here John Bartram, a famous botanist, ^ fixed his home in 1731, and built, largely with his owti I RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS 35 hands, a quaint stone mansion, still standing, the garden surrounding it being now kept as one of the city parks. This he made the most widely -known botanic garden in America. His journeys in search of rare plants took him from the Great Lakes to Florida, and this w^ork was ably kept up OLD SWEDES CHURCH by his son, William Bartram. His garden is very rich in foreign and American trees and shrubs, and his repu- tation spread so widely that botanists from distant parts of the world visited the famous American tree-lover in his celebrated garden. Old Swedes' Church. — Philadelphia has a historic site dating back beyond the Penn era, and belonging to that of the Swedes. These had built themselves a church on 36 RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS Tinicum Island as early as 1646. Another place of wor- ship was built at Wicaco (South Philadelphia) about 1669 or later. This was a log structure, fitted alike for fort or church. It was replaced in 1700 by the venerable brick edifice known as Old Swedes' Church (Gloria Dei), on what is now Swanson Street, below Christian. Here services are still held. The old church stands in a ceme- tery containing gravestones with inscriptions dating from 1700, but now mostly illegible. The oldest that can be read is that of Peter Sandel, died 1708. Much the most notable is that of Alexander Wilson, the celebrated ornithologist, who died in 1813. . Trinity Church. — Next in antiquity to Old Swedes' Church is the ancient Trinity Church (EpiscopaHan), two miles northwest of Frankford, on the Oxford Road. The present edifice, built of brick, dates from 1711. Arch Street Friends' Meeting. — This, the seat of the oldest religious society in the city with the exception of that first mentioned, was originally the graveyard of the Friends' Meeting, which was held at Second and Market until 1804, when the present Meeting House was built in the old burying ground. It is at present little used, though the Yearly Meeting of the Society is held there. There are Friends' Meeting Houses at several other loca- tions in the city, also schools and a library building, all in the plain but substantial architectural character suited to the tenets of this religious body. Christ Church. — The religious liberty proclaimed by William Penn was quickly taken advantage of b}^ other sects, and many members of the Established Church of England made their homes in this city. To them are due the historic Christ Church, first erected in 1695, and RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS 37 replaced in 17^7-31 by the brick structure now on its site, on Second Street above Market. This unique church building, the oldest in the cit}^ after Swedes' and Trinit}^ Churches, is sixty feet wide by ninety feet in length, its brick tower being surmounted by a wooden steeple 190 feet high. Here the British officers attended services when CHRIST CHURCH TOWARDS THE ALTAR Philadelphia was in their hands, and Washington did the same when President of the ITnited States. The j^ew occu- pied by him is still proudly pointed out. Several other churches have come dovMi from colonial days, among them the Protestant Episcopal St. Peter's, built 1758-61, at Third and Pine Streets, and St. Paul's (now modernized), on Third Street below Walnut. On 38 RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS Fourth Street, near by, is St. Mary's (Roman Catholic), built in 1763, and near St. Peter's is the "Old Pine Street Church" (Presbyterian), opened for worship in 1768. Pennsylvania Hospital. — The need of a public hos- pital in Philadelphia was first broached by Dr. Thomas Bond about 1750. As usual in those days, the aid of Benjamin Franklin was sought, and under his efficient assistance the work of building soon began. By 1756 the buildings were ready for use, the Pennsylvania Hos- pital, the first in America, thus coming into existence. This institution — not completed on the lines of its original plan until 1800 — occupies the large area bounded by Eighth, Ninth, Spruce and Pine Streets. This lot at that time was far out of towii, but was eventually taken in and greatly overrun by the growing city. The insti- tution is, and always has been, the great "accident hos- pital" of Philadelphia. The proper care of the insane was also among its objects, these being cared for in the hospital at Eighth and Pine until 1841, when they were removed to the location in West Philadelphia long known as Kirkbride's Hospital for the Insane. The first clinical lectures on medicine and surgery were given in the Penn- sylvania Hospital, and these have been continued until the present time. A splendid medical library has also been collected. Philadelphia a Medical Center. — Philadelphia has long been pre-eminent among American cities as a center of medical education, the first school for this purpose being formed there in 1765 as part of "The College, Academy and Charitable School of Philadelphia," estab- lished ten years earlier. This school grew rapidly in reputation, soon being classed with the leading medical RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS 39 schools of Europe, its professors being men of high abihty in their field of science. The parent institution in time developed into the "University of Pennsylvania," of which the medical school has continued one of the lead- ing features. As regards the general development of medical science and study in Philadelphia, it will be dealt with in a later section. Science and Art. — Philadelphia in its early days gained eminence in other fields of science than medicine. We have spoken of the scientific work of Franklin, Rit- tenhouse and Godfrey, and of the botanical ability of the Bartrams, father and son. Wilson and Audubon, among the most famous of ornithologists, made Phila- delphia a center of their labors in the bird world, the former, as stated, finding a final resting-place in the graveyard of Old Swedes' Church. There also dwelt Dr. Benjamin Rush, who won the title of "The Father of American Medicine." In art may be named the well- known Benjamin West, whose birthplace is still to be seen near Swarthmore College, in the vicinity of the city. Of his famous paintings, "Penn's Treaty with the Indians" hangs in Independence Hall, "Death on the Pale Horse" in the Academy of the Fine Arts, and "Christ Healing the Sick" in the Pennsylvania Hospital. Shall we close this chapter by naming some others of the first things in Philadelphia .^^ The Philadelphia Library, founded by Franklin in 1731, is the oldest sub- scription library in the country. The first scientific insti- tution in the country is the American Philosophical Society, founded by Franklin in 1743. The first paper mill was built on the banks of the Wissahickon, near GeriTiantown, in 1696. The first fire-insurance company 40 RELICS OF OLD COLONY DAYS in America was opened at Philadelphia in 1721. The first fire company was organized by Franklin in 1738. In 1741 Franklin established the first literary journal in the colonies, The General Magazine and Historical Chron- icle. In this city was opened the first law school and the first medical school in the country, and here was made the first piano, was built the first type foundry, and was established the first water-works system in the coun- try. The first steam travel on land was performed by Oliver Evans in Philadelphia streets, and the first on water, with the exception of that of James Rumsey, by John Fitch on Philadelphia waters. The oldest business house in America, Francis Perot Sons' Malting Company, is still in existence in Philadelphia, and still possesses the first stationary engine built in this country. The Bank of North America is the oldest corporate banking insti- tution on the American continent. Here also were the first mint, the first water works, the first Sunday-School Association and various other first things that might be mentioned. THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY 41 6. The Philadelphia of To-day. The city of Penn has ceased to be, in its general aspect, a Quaker city. Once known for its uniform sameness, the prim succession of its long rows of similar dwellings, with red-brick fronts and white-marble steps and copings, it is now as varied in architecture as the most exacting critic could reasonably demand. In the old, staid resi- dence streets much of the former characteristic prevails, but this is a comfortable, homelike aspect, and in its newer districts it has graduated from its old-time drab Quakerism and put on the most modern of architectural robes. This refers to its residence district. Its central business area is an array of enormous department stores and sky-scraping office-buildings, hotels, apartment houses and other upreaching or outspreading edifices. In the recently built-up region of the city there are numerous dwellings of artistically varied architecture, equalling in beauty and grace those to be found in any of the world's cities. In the older suburbs, such as Germantown and Chestnut Hill, may be seen beautiful ancestral homes instinct with the spirit of an older era, some of the finest colonial doorways in the country being here visible. Leaving the immediate limits of the city and seeking its outspreading suburbs to the north, west and south, we find ourselves in a garden of beauty and charm, forming what with good warrant have been termed "the most beautiful suburbs in America." Crossing the city line in any direction, northward along the Reading and Penn- sylvania railroads, westward along the Pennsylvania "Main Line," and southward towards Chester and Wil- 42 THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY mington, we find ourselves in a succession of exquisite suburban scenes, embracing many magnificent country estates and rural villages as attractive as beautiful dwell- ings, velvety lawns, green shrubbery, profuse floral growth and graceful architectural designs could well make them. A summer jaunt through these outlying settlements will go far to convince any one that Philadelphia bears the palm for the grace and charm of suburban attractiveness. While these suburbs lie beyond the city limits, the city is their business and social center, a constant stream of travel passing in and out daily, alike in the rapid succession of trains and the steady line of motor cars that crowd the intervening roads morning and evening. This abundant outlying section is justly a portion of the city, since it is dependent upon it for existence and very largely inhabited by persons whose daily duties bring them within the city streets. As regards railroad service, above spoken of, Phila- delphia is admirably supplied. Of the three roads that enter the city, two of them, the Pennsylvania and Read- ing, penetrate it to its very heart. The Broad Street Station of the Pennsylvania fronts directly upon the location of the Center Square which William Penn set aside as the hub of his new city, and the Market Street Station of the Reading lies but a short distance away. The Baltimore and Ohio Station is at the Schuylkill extremity of the original city planned by Penn. As for means of getting about within the city limits, the admirable system of electric cars ofters excellent opportunities, no city being better supplied in this par- ticular. There is scarcely one of the wider streets of the city without its car line, running north, south, east THE PHILADELPHIA OE TO-DAY 43 or west, with a mystifying abundance that appears dif- ficult to unravel. The total length of trolley lines in the city is about 600 miles. The system is easy to com- prehend and one soon gets to depend on the number given each separate line, without troubling about its ^^ further directions. In the way of real "rapid transit," the Market Street Subway and Elevated lines are of great HEADING TEKMIXAL service, and carry their multitudes daily. At the west- ward extremity of the Elevated, at 69th Street, the trolley service leaves the city and plunges into the country, spreading out like the fingers of a hand into a number of distinct lines, giving service to West Chester, to several 44 THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY points on the Main Line, and to Allentown by way of Norristown. Other out-of-town service is provided to Chester, Media, Wilmington, Doylestown, Easton, and more distant localities. Counting with these varied routes of rail travel the fast-growing multitudes of automobiles in daily use, it will appear that Philadelphia is amply provided for in the necessary function of getting about. Thus much for passenger travel. For freight carriage ample facilities have been and are being provided. A net- work of freight tracks crosses the city towards the wharves, including an elevated one of the Pennsylvania Railroad Company. This company has 56 freight stations in Phila- delphia and Camden, many of them on the river front, along w4iich front a belt line for the transfer of freight extends to Port Richmond. At the latter port the Reading Railway Company has shipping piers and coal sheds a half mile in length. It should further be said that plans are now in preparation for doing away with all railroad crossings on grade in Philadelphia, and for building a complete modern series of wharves along the southern section of the river front, with accommodations for the largest ships. The city is, in fact, to be made a first- class fresh-water port, with every facility for freight and passenger carriage. There are still fourteen miles of unoccupied tide-water front, and hundreds of acres of bordering lands along the tw^o rivers fitted for building- great factories, from which goods could be placed directly on shipboard. In addition to the modern piers now under process of building, Delaware Avenue is being widened and bulkheaded in concrete and the Delaware being deepened, the ultimate depth to be 35 feet. The plan now being w^orked out w^ill utilize over 1,000 acres and provide THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY 45 wharfage for one hundred and thirty-one 600-foot ships. The Delaware now bears a large traffic, and is well provided with light-houses and other aids to safe navi- gation, also with large and powerful ice-boats, capable of keeping the channel open in the severest winter weather likely to occur in its latitude. To those who seek the city for other purposes than those of commerce and who are not specially concerned in the art of getting about, but are in the city with the purpose of making acquaintance with its features of in- ternal interest, a description of its makeup and layout will prove desirable. The visitor finds little difficulty in learning the simple plan of the city and hence in reach- ing any desired point. It is not easy to get lost here, as in New York or Boston. The streets cross each other at right angles, those running north and south being known by numbers, beginning at First or Front Street, on the Delaware side. Those running east and west were originally given the names of forest trees. This system, however, has not been continued beyond the boundaries of the old city plan, and some of those within these limits have lost their original names. Thus the old Mulberry and Sassafras streets now bear the more prosaic but more convenient names of Arch and Race Streets. Market Street (originally High Street) is re- garded as the central dividing line of the city, and from this the house numbers begin as units north and south. The convenient system has been adopted of starting with a new hundred at the beginning of every block, so that it is easy to know from the house numbers in every block how^ far it is north or south of Market Street. Going westward the same system has been adopted, though 46 THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY without any dividing line. Thus 1800 Chestnut Street sig- nifies the house on the southwest corner of Eighteenth and Chestnut, the even numbers being on the south, the odd ones on the north, side. The blocks, or squares, do not vary much in lejigth, though those running north and south are the longer, there being ten or more squares to the mile in the case of streets running east and west, eight or nine in that of streets running north and south. Between these main are many intermediate streets. Of paved streets there are over 1,200 miles in the city; of macadamized streets (in the rural section) about 350 miles. While these streets are, as a rule, regular in direction, running to the prime points of the compass, this is not wholly the case, since a number of diagonal streets, formerly country highways, aid in supplying cross way passages. These include the Ridge Road, Germantown Avenue and Frankford Avenue, heading northwestward; Passyunk Avenue, heading southwestward, and in West Philadelphia, Lancaster Avenue (the old Lancaster Turn- pike) and Woodland Avenue (the old stage highway leading southward to Baltimore and Washington). Sug- gestions have been made of adding to these four others, branching out like rays from the City Hall, and one of these has been partly completed, the Fairmount Park- way, to be later described. In addition to these plans for costly short cuts through the city, several large and handsome boulevards have been projected, including the Northeast Boulevard, in considerable part completed; the South Broad Street Boulevard, also under process of construction; the Penny- pack and Cobb's Creek boulevards. As to open breath- ing spots, small squares, grass-grown and tree-shaded. THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY 47 the City Fathers have been Hberal providers, there being fifty-six such resting places where the weary city toiler can rest and gain a glimpse of rural greenery. The laying out of these open spaces began with William Penn, who planned five such resting places for his embryo city. Four of these remain, F'ranklin, Washington, Rittenhouse and Logan Squares, named after men famous in the city's former history. To these must be added Independence Square, of somewhat later origin. Center Square, Penn's fifth opening, has vanished under the weight of the mon- umental City Hall. To these older openings in the brick and stone wilderness, some fifty others have since been added, widespread throughout the city and some of them of considerable area. Chief among those of recent origin is League Island Park, at the southern extremit}^ of the South Broad Street, or Southern, Boulevard and fac- ing League Island, the seat of the great Government nav}^ yard, yet to be described. In the foregoing no men- tion has been made of the city's famous pleasure ground, the world-known Fairmount Park, this being important enough to claim a chapter for itself. There are, however, some other pleasure grounds within the environs of the city which call for mention, especially Willow Grove Park, a highly ornamental local- ity, miles away from the city's center. Here there is much to amuse and entertain the casual visitor, and an open-air auditorium where thousands ma^^ hear the choicest of band music. Woodside Park, on the western border of Fairmount Park, is a nearer locality offering similar entertainment. A series of parks offering attrac- tions of a different character, but equally popular, include the National League Ball Park, at 15th and Huntingdon Streets, Shibe Park, at 21st Street and Lehigh Avenue, one 48 THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY of the largest ball grounds in the country, and Franklin Field, the athletic grounds of the University of Pennsyl- vania, the scene of many intercollegiate football contests. These are some of the more interesting of the places provided for lovers of sport, but there is one more that cannot go without mention, the widely-known rowing course of the Schuylkill Navy, the *' Henley of America," as it has been called. This lies on the Schuylkill, above Columbia Bridge, and has been the scene of many hotly contested rowing events between the oarsmen of various universities. It is admirably adapted for the purpose and constantly attracts multitudes of enthusiastic spec- tators to the lookout places on the umbrageous surround- ing river banks. This chapter has been, in a partial measure, a bird's-eye glance at Philadelphia. Let us re- turn from its external features and take a stroll through the shopping district of the city, the realm of the seller and buyer, of the merchant and shopper. Among the streets devoted to this pleasant and profitable duty Market and Chestnut Streets stand first, Market Street as the haunt of the vast multitudes of buyers, Chestnut Street as a more exclusive while more expensive field of purchase. It is in Market Street that we find the swaying, crush- ing crowds that go out, armed cap-a-pie, to purchase in the happy Christmastide, or the eager throng of bargain seekers who gather for the fray around the bargain counter, at times paying in mental and physical dis- array more than full value for all they get. The original idea of the founder was that High Street should be the great shopping center. But the tide of affairs flowed differently. High Street won the name of Market Street through the kind of business transacted THE PHILADELPHIA OF TO-DAY 49 there and Chestnut Street became the mart of shopping traffic east and west. Second Street was long the great shopping avenue north and south. Within quite recent times the tide has turned again. The first department store, the Wanamaker estabhshment, opened its doors on Market Street after the Centennial year, and since then the department store area has flowed eastward until that street from Broad to Seventh is largely ab- sorbed by these great marts, in which almost everything imaginable may be bought. The}- form the great bazaar feature of the Occident. Wandering up and down these two streets within the limits stated one cannot help bestowing the meed of praise to Philadelphia's storekeepers for one phase of artistic ability, that of store-window decoration. Many of the store windows are true works of art, and in look- ing upon them the eye is feasted with designs in arrange- ment of true skill, art and effectiveness. No city in the United States surpasses, if any equals, Philadelphia in this field of display, and the Philadelphia store window is widely acknowledged as a w^ork of art that takes cap- tive the passing eye. The shopping district is not con- fined to the localit}^ mentioned. Philadelphia covers too wide an area not to have many minor shopping streets and districts. Yet the department store is the Mecca of the ardent shopper, and every attraction is used to draw him or her to these precincts sacred to the bargain. As for the wholesale district, it has become in large measure confined to the district betw^een Eighth Street and the Delaware, within which area large quantities of goods annually change hands, and many minor fields of manufacture are diligently prosecuted. 50 UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK 7. The Unrivalled Fairmount Park. With an area well over 3,000 acres and a picturesqueness and scenic beauty not equalled by any other municipal park in the world, Fairmount Park is a treasure of at- tractiveness of which the citizens of Philadelphia may justly be proud. It is a great show-place for all who visit this city, one indeed they are sure to ask for, since this grand park has a reputation that has spread widely over all civilized lands. It is the one park in the world that has a large river for one of its features of attraction. And we may say also that it is the one city park through which passes what is practically a mountain ravine, for such is the Wissahickon Valley, with its steep wooded slopes, its rippling and lucent stream, and its delightful woodside paths. Fairmount Park constitutes the bluff banks and undulating back-country of the Schuylkill and the won- derfully picturesque valley of the Wissahickon through miles of their meandering course. Several miles more of the upper valley of the latter stream have recently been added, carrying the park in this direction far beyond the city boundary and northward to Fort Washington, a locality with a Revolutionary history. It is not alone charms of nature that the Wissahickon has to show. There is also to be seen a notable work of engineering art, the remarkable concrete bridge which spans the ravine at Walnut Lane, the most striking of the numerous ones that cross the city's streams. The East Park. — On the eastern side of the Schuylkill the banks ascend abruptly to an upper level, leaving UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK 51 only space for a driveway between the hill and the stream. This section, the East Park, is not very wide, but has many attractive localities and contains several old mansions, including the country house of Robert Morris, of Revolutionary^ fame, on Lemon Hill. Further north are the Spring Garden Water Works (now out of ARNOLD S MANSION, FAIRMOUNT PARK service) and the large East Park Reservoir with storage capacity for over 700,000,000 gallons, an ample and well- appointed children's playground with a suitable building for indoor purposes, and farther north the Mount Pleas- sant Mansion, a historic edifice bought by Benedict Arnold in 1779 for his wife. The mansion houses of other old estates lie north of 52 UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK this, chief among them being Strawberry Mansion, on the summit of a rocky bluff with a fine outlook over the river. This is a favorite place of resort, several trolley lines centering in the near vicinity and the surrounding grounds being handsomely decorated. It is also the starting point in this section of the Park Trolley line, which here crosses the river on a bridge and traverses the most picturesque scenic reaches of the West Park. Northward still the driveway skirts the foot of the beautiful Laurel Hill Cemetery, sweeps past the manu- facturing village of Falls of Schuylkill, and passes on-, ward to the output of the Wissahickon, to follow the latter through its meandering course. The West Park. — The W^est Park escapes the con- tracted proportions which the crowding city has imposed upon the East Park, it stretching far backward from the upper edge of the river bluff. Its limit in this direction is George's Hill, so called from its donor, Jesse George, in which the park surface reaches its highest elevation, that of 210 feet above the tidal level. Nearer the stream is the old Lansdowne property, owned by John Penn, "The American," and Egglesfield Mansion, built and occupied by another John, his nephew, during the Revo- lution. It is in the vicinity of this, on the high ground above the Lansdowne Drive, that the William Penn house, the oldest building in Pennsylvania, stands, removed hither from its original location in the city. North- ward in the West Park are the Belmont Water Works, which furnish the water supply for West Philadelphia, and at the head of the shady Belmont Glen above this stands Belmont Mansion, the handsome residence of the eminent Judge Peters, who was born and died here (1744-1828). UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK 53 This mansion is a favorite locality for visitors to the West Park, music and floral decorations adding to its attractiveness. North of it is a wide stretch of wood- land, with the Park Nursery in one corner, and farther north the old mansion known as Chamouni, with a lake used for boating and a deeply wooded dell, with wind- ing, umbrageous paths, beyond. From this locality can be had a magnificent view of the West Park, with the winding river below and on its other side the great "Wliite City" of Laurel Hill Cemetery. Such is a concise account of the general features of the main section of Fair- mount Park. The Old Park, the small garden below Lemon Hill, and the germ of the present great expanse, adjoins and partly surrounds the old "Faire Mount," the reservoir hill. Fronting Lemon Hill is the long row of boat-houses of the Schuylkill Navy, while nearby is a seated statue of President Lincoln, and, farther south, the magnificent Washington Monument described on the following page. The Zoological Garden. — A considerable tract of ground in the southeast corner of the West Park has been utilized for a well-filled zoological garden, contain- ing animals and birds from all parts of the world. The tract occupied was formerly the country seat of John Penn, grandson of the founder, who gave it the name of "Solitude." The mansion occupied by him still stands and serves as the official center of the garden. The col- lection of animals here was long the finest and most complete in this country, it being surpassed onl}^ by the great displays at London and Paris. The tract con- tains thirty-three acres, its ravines and rolling surface well adapting it for the landscape-garden treatment which is one of its attractive features. At the Girard 54 UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK Avenue entrance to the Garden is a striking bronze group, the D^^ing Lioness, one of the most effective examples of animal sculpture in the country. An aquarium has recently been added to the park at- tractions, occupying the power-houses of the old water- works, with an adjoining pool tenanted by seals, the daily feeding of which attracts many spectators. Art Decorations. — At the Green Street entrance to the park stands the finest bronze group in this country, the famous equestrian statue of Washington. Its deco- rations include examples of the largest American animals, recumbent statues of Indian and pioneer men and w^omen, decorations expressive of peace and war, and handsome fountain effects, the group drawing a constant succes- sion of visitors. There are several other examples of equestrian statuarj^ in the park, one of the most attractive being that of Joan of Arc, the work of a famous French sculptor, which stands at the east end of Girard Avenue bridge. Several emblematic groups are also to be seen, including St. George and the Dragon, The Cowboy, The Stone Age, and the extensive group of the Catholic Total Abstinence Fountain. The Smith Memorial, erected at a cost of half a million dollars, with shafts one hundred and seven feet high, is intended to honor Pennsylvania heroes of the Civil War, the shafts being decorated with statues of Generals Meade, Thomas, Hancock and McClellan. Other monuments of interest are one of President Lincoln, the cabin used by General Grant during the siege of Petersburg, now on Lemon Hill, and a group of basaltic columns from Giants' Causeway, Ireland. Such are the more notable of the artistic attractions UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK 55 COWBOY STATUE, FAIRMOUNT PARK of the park. To them has recently been added a Jap- anese pagoda, giv- ing an excellent counterpart of the Old Nippon style of decora- tion. The Cen- tennial Ex- position. — F a i r m o u n t Park became well known to the people of this country when it was used as the site of the Centennial Exposition of 1876, the first of the great World's Fairs this country has know^n. Of the exhibition build- ings of the Fair two remain, Memorial Hall and Horti- cultural Hall, which have since then con- tinned splendid centers of attraction for the art and nature THE STONE AGE, FAIRMOUNT PARK THE SMITH MEMORIAL, FAIRMOUNT PARK. loving Philadelphian. In Memorial Hall the School of Industrial Art has gathered a magnificent collection of industrial art ob- jects, including sev- IJXCOLN MONUMENT, IWTRMOT'N'T PARK era! loan collections on permanent exhi- basaltk^ columns from giants' causeway, IRELAND. FAIRMOUNT PARK bition. Here also is placed the costly Wilstach art gal- lery, which is an- nually growing in value, and will JAPANESE PAGODA, FAIRMOUNT PARK UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK 57 finally be displayed in the great art museum now projected. Horticultural Hall occupies a bluff overlooking the Schuylkill and contains a splendid collection of exotic plants of great variety and profusion. The grounds sur- MEMORIALHALL, FAIRMOUNT PARK rounding it are decora- ted with not- able pieces of statuary and p 1 a n t e d abundantly with trees and shrubbery. The Hall and grounds are especially notable for their frequent floral dis- plays, as of rhododendrons, roses, chrysanthemums, and other sliowv blooms. HORTICULTURAL HALt, FAIRMOUNT PARK 58 UNRIVALLED FAIRMOUNT PARK The West Park is admirably fitted for display, especially the broad level below Belmont Mansion, where there frequently takes place some striking annual event, in- cluding the showy marches of the Knights Templar. A scene of historic interest, representing the development of the city, was here recently given. To the west lies a speedway for fast trotters, and the whole West Park has on several successive occasions been turned into a great auto-speedway, the occasional sharp turns and changes of level adding a sharp spice of danger to this form of entertainment. CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES 59 8. Centers of Municipal Activities. The Center Square laid out by William Penn at the point of crossing of his two main streets was divided into four small squares when Market and Broad Streets were cut through it. Thus it remained until 1871, when the building of the great pile of the City Hall began, definitely, and injudiciously as it has proved, closing these two great streets in their central portion. Among our centers of municipal activities this enormous group of buildings stands first, and a description of it, as the main seat of the city government, comes here in place. We have already spoken of the old City Hall, adjoin- ing Independence Hall on its Fifth and Chestnut Street side. Here the Mayor and his officials made their homes until the new Hall was finished, since which time all the diversified work of the city government has been con- ducted within its ample space. The government of Phila- delphia had long outgrown the dimensions of the old Hall, the courts and some other branches of government finding homes elsewhere. In laying out plans for the new City Hall it was determined to make it large enough to meet all possible demands, and a building was erected larger by odds than any other public building in America, one surpassing in area even the Capitol at Washington. Its length north and south is 4863^ feet, east and west 470 feet, the total area covered being four and a half acres, exclusive of a central courtyard two hundred feet square. Surrounding it is a grand avenue '^205 feet wide on the north and 135 feet on the other sides, while the building climbs to an enormous height, its central 60 CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES tower rising to an elevation of 537V3 feet, and terminating in a colossal statue of William Penn, thirty-six feel high. xAn ele- vator carries visitors to Z^'^.J the foot ol the Penn statue, where is an out- look station furnishing a splendid view of the city, near and distant, from the throng of surrounding skyscrapers to the more remote sec tions. The state ment that the visi tors to this point in 1915 numbered 70,000 indicates its attractive- ness alike to citizens and tourists. The basement of this building is of fine granite and the superstructure of white marble, the whole strongly )acked with brick and made thor- oughly fire-proof. It contains 5W 'oonis, all the City Depart- ments finding in it abiding places, also the Council and Courts. Yet in the thirty or more years since it was completed the needs of the STATUE OF WILLIAM PENN IN PLAZA OF CITY HALL CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES 61 city government have grown beyond its great capacity, and it is proposed to find room for some of the Courts along the adjoining Parkway, new quarters being also found for the city's educational department. Architecturally the City Hall is a highly ornate struct- ure, being a fine example of the French Renaissance, with its florid combination of classic and modern schools. Its interior is adorned with a large amount of statuary in high and low relief, while from the lofty pediments without gigantic statues look down. The entrances are imposing, that on the north side containing a group of polished-stone columns, while the hall under the great tower is unique and striking in its architectural effects. Externally the lofty tower, of remarkable height, domi- nates the city, and is visible for miles in every direc- tion, the light in the clock tower being extinguished for a few minutes before nine every evening to enable those at a distance to set their clocks at the right hour. Since the completion of this great municipal pile the pavement surrounding has been decorated with important examples of statuary, including equestrian figures, statues of Girard, Leidy, Muhlenberg, Bullitt and McClellan, and an ideal figure of the Puritan. The total cost of this great edifice figured up over $20,000,000. Commodious and useful as is this great City Hall, it has more than once proved a heartburn to Philadel- phians. In Broad Street, with its great width and many miles of length, Philadelphia possesses a grand avenue admirably adapted to parades and processions, one in which it is not equalled by any other city. Yet there is a break in the middle of this avenue, that due to the City Hall, forcing every procession to contract and swing 62 CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES around this building in a mode not altogether agreeable. Another difficulty arose when the Subway under Market Street was proposed. The suggestion was made that it could be carried under the obstructing building. But this expedient seemed too much of a risk. There was danger that the great pile might sag down into the Sub- way. Finally it was deemed necessary to carry the exca- vation around the Hall, with single tracks north and south. A similar problem arose in 1915, when a new Subway, one underlying Broad Street, was projected. But in the meantime engineers had grown more daring or more re- sourceful and it was now resolved to plunge under the great Hall. Not under the huge tower, however, with its enormous weight. It was decided, on the contrary, to swing westward and carry the Subway under the wings of the building, where the weight was much less, concrete pillars being sunk to rock bottom and in this way holding up the great structure. This stupendous engineering feat, however, is yet awaiting accomplishment. Municipal Departments-^TIic government and con- trol of a great city nowadays is a complex problem, more so than was formerly that of many nations. The Mayor needs his cabinet and official staff, as the Presi- dent needs his, and each member of the staff has many duties to perform. Philadelphia has five such depart- ments, those of Public Works, Public Safety, Public Health and Charity, Supplies, and Wharves, Docks and Ferries. Each of these has its circle of duties to cover and its busy corps of workers and assistants, and no city can be justly described without an account of its departmental work. Under Public Works, for instance, CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES 63 comes the important one of water supples to which some attention must be given. Water Supply. — The first attempt to supply Phila- delphia with water, other than that to be obtained from wells, was on a small scale and of a somewhat crude character. The Schuylkill River was its source, the water being raised by water power and carried by wooden pipes down Market Street to a reservoir at Center Square, whence it was piped to the various sections of the city. This was in 1799, but most of the people preferred their well water and the new supply came very slowly into service. In 1818 the much larger works at Fairmount were completed and brought into use, the high and broad hill at that place being utilized as a reservoir and the Schuylkill dammed to furnish an adequate supply. Now, nearly a century later, this locality has been definitely abandoned, it being proposed to use the old "Faire Mount" as the site of an imposing Art Gallery. The needs of the growing city were such that a con- tinual addition was made to the works; the Spring Garden and Belmont works were erected, capacious reservoirs were built, and finally, to avoid the use of the raw and unsanitary Schuylkill water, a new and enormous filtering plant was established at Torresdale, on the Delaware, a similar plant being founded at Belmont for the supply of West Philadelphia with pure water. This is not all. To avoid the waste of the costly filtered water in putting out fires, powerful pumping stations have been built on the Delaware, supplying water at high pressure to the central business section, that in which great and costly conflagrations are most likely to occur. Lighting. — In close connection with the question of 64 CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES fire comes that of lighting. In this respect Philadelphia stands at a high level of efficiency, it having won the reputation of being the best-lighted city in the world. At night its central portion, especially along Market, Chestnut and Broad Streets, is a blaze of electric splendor, while there is scarcely a street in the city, however humble, without its electric bulbs. House lighting is still mainly done by gas, but the general use of the incandescent Welsbach mantle makes a source of in- terior illumination not easily surpassed. Paving. — Philadelphia is admirably well paved. The old-time cobble-stones, once looked upon as the best fitted city paving, have been consigned to the limbo of the unfit, and the square Belgian blocks, which replaced them, have also largely disappeared, being succeeded by asphalt and vitrified })rick, and in Market, Arch, and some other streets by the latest idea in wood paving, blocks treated with liquid pitch being used which at once resist wear and decay. The Market Street pave- ment, the oldest of these, remains practically intact after some ten years of service. The one objectionable feature of these smooth-surfaced pavements is their slipperiness when wet or icy, this rendering it very difficult for horses to retain their foot- ing. But the horse is a rapidly vanishing means of traction in city streets, the auto-truck and auto-car taking- its place, and the time may come when the horse will practically disappear from this line of duty. Drainage. — Little need be said about drainage. This is one of those necessary items of city machinery which does its work underground, but none the less effectively from being hidden from sight. Sewage and surface water CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES 65 drainage must have sufficient means of escape, and be- neath the skin of every large city of our day runs an interlocking series of veins and arteries ceaselessly en- gaged in supplying water and removing waste. The great question that faces the most of our cities is the proper method of disposing of this waste. To empty it into the rivers, the method usually employed, is a source of great risk to the public health, and not the least im- portant of the projects of improvement in Philadelphia is the adoption of some method of sewage disposal which will render it innocuous and perhaps adapt it for fertiliz- ing purposes. This is one of the projects which our city fathers have in mind. Policing. — The proper policing of a great city is a matter of high importance. The time was when Phila- delphia, like all of our cities, was very inefficiently served in this respect, when riots raged for days with which the small and ill-trained police force was unable to cope, and when the volunteer fire-companies were in a state of chronic hostility, buildings being at times set on fire with the purpose of provoking a fight. Philadelphia was very ill-governed in this respect in the period preceding the Civil War. Turmoil frequently prevailed and the authorities were often at a loss how to deal with the riotous element. Such is by no means the case in our day, for the Quaker City has now a highly efficient and capable body of police. The disorders and disturbances of the past have ceased to exist, the careful supervision of the police force is ready to nip any incipient outrage in the bud, and the patrolmen have matters so under control that many of them can be spared to supervise the move- ments of automobiles and other vehicles and assure to 66 CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES the ordinary citizen some rights in the streets. As for the Fire Department, that also has been reformed and transformed. The reckless old volunteers have given way to a thoroughly trained body of fire fighters, and with the now abundant supply of water a conflagration cannot easily get beyond control. Other Departments. — The purpose of this chapter is to point out the efficiency which Philadelphia has at- tained in its important governmental requirements. There are several fields of duty in which this capacity of doing good work is to be seen. The Department of Health and Charity, for instance, keeps wide awake to the duties intrusted to it, and careful sanitation is the rule. The least indication of an epidemic of any kind calls out its whole fighting force and strenuous measures are taken to prevent the spread of disease. It is particu- larly in the slum districts, the abiding place of the heed- less and improvident, that care needs to be taken, and a new problem has arisen, that of sanitary housing, which is just now a subject of active public interest. Charity, proper care of the poor and suffering, is a task that calls for efficient management. Whether it is getting this is now a question in which the public is growing interested. Large as is Blockle}^ Almshouse, for example, the demands of the indigent poor seem to have grown beyond its capacities, and there is a strong public awakening to the need of improved accommo- dations. Connected with Blockley is the Philadelphia Hospital, the oldest institution of its kind in the country, in which there is a department for the insane poor, who similarly need more room. The Pennsylvania Hospital for the Insane, usually known as Kirkbride's, on Market CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES 67 Street west of Forty-second, and extending to Fiftieth, stands so strongly in the way of pubhc improvement in this quarter that it may soon be removed to a rural district owned by it, with the idea of using the present large area for park and other purposes. Another of the city departments which is now attract- ing decided attention is that connected with the port of Philadelphia, which needs to be fitted for a resump- tion of its former activity as a shipping center. This de- mands a deepening of the river channel, now well under way, and important additions to the facilities in the way of wharves and docks. Formerly what was known as Smith's Island stood midway between Philadelphia and Camden, in the most direct line of ferriage. To aid the latter a channel was cut through the island for the passage of ferryboats. But it finally became necessary to remove the whole island. This was done many years ago and the present generation of travellers scarcely knows that such an obstruction to free passage once existed. The whole channel opposite the city is now in navigable condition Philadelphia is responding nobly to the new spirit of prog- ress and the active steps taken for harbor improvement. At the present time more freight is passing through its port than at any time in its history, and it has risen to the rank of the second largest revenue producer in the United States. It has passed Boston in this respect and is second only to New York. Plans for increased steamship facilities have progressed so far as to assure the establishment of lines of vessels to all the important seaports of the world. In view of the fact that this port has a river channel to the sea of 30 feet in depth 68 CENTERS OF MUNICIPAL ACTIVITIES at low tide and of 35 feet in considerable part, and varying from 600 to 1,000 feet in width, and has 267 wharves of all sizes, many of them belonging to the great railroad companies, at which ships of large size can dock and unload, free of wharfage, it will appear that its provision for accepting and handling trade is very large, and the probability of a marked increase in future commerce is excellent. Supplies. — In former years the purchase of supplies for the city's needs was a highly unsystematic procedure, each department or branch of the city government at- tending to or neglecting its own needs in its own way, while mismanagement and overcharge were the rule. The new Department of Supplies is organized to deal with this important matter in an orderly and scientific method, the whole matter of purchasing materials for the city's varied needs being under one head and in the hands of one body of officials, a system the good effects of which are clearly apparent. It is an adaptation of the new idea of business management in civic affairs. Transit. — Scientific principles have also been applied as far as possible in the matter of public transit, the rapid and comfortable carriage of the people from part to part of the far-extended city. This is in charge of a director. Important progress has been made, and the plans for rapid transit by means of Subway and Elevated street railways, now in process of development, promise to be of great advantage to the people of Philadelphia. The doing away with the present system of exchanges and substitution of free passes in transfer to cross lines has recently been vigorously advocated. FEDP:RAL institutions in PHIIADELPHIA 69 9. Federal Institutions in Philadelphia. Philadelphia still retains monuments brought over from the days when it was the capital of the United States. Some of these have been mentioned. There are others of considerable interest. Of its banking institutions the most important historically is the Bank of North America, No. 307 Chestnut Street, the oldest bank in the country, built and organized in 1781, under the auspices of Robert Morris, and of great aid to the United States in the final years of its struggle for independence. Originally a plain brick building, its site is now occupied by a handsome granite edifice, more in accordance with its historical dignity, the original building having disappeared. United States Banks. — Philadelphia was the seat of the two Banks of the United States, the only govern- mental institutions of this kind in our history. The first of these was founded by Alexander Hamilton, the capable Secretary of the Treasury, in 1791, its charter being for twenty years. As this expired in 1811 and was not renewed, the building was purchased by Stephen Girard and became the seat of the Girard Bank, the financial backbone of the government in the war of 1812-14. It still stands, a classical Grecian structure, situated on Third Street below Chestnut, its marble portico facing the head of Dock Street. Opposite it, between Walnut and Dock Streets, stands an interesting structure, of classical design. This, long known as the Merchants' Exchange, is a handsome marble building, modelled after the edifice at Athens known as the "Lantern of Demosthenes." Its peculiar feature is its semicircular front, adorned with a Corinthian portico. 70 FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA The second United States Bank, chartered m 1816 for twenty years, was, hke the former, built by the Federal government, a stately and handsome building, erected (1819-^4) on the south side of Chestnut Street west of Fourth. It was modelled after the famous Parthenon at Athens, and is regarded as one of the finest examples of the Doric order of architecture extant. As a Federal bank it was ruined by President Jack- son, who vetoed the bill renewing its charter. It has long been used as the United States Cus- tom House for Phiht- CUSTOM HOUSE delphia, also as the Sub-Treasury, and is still an ornament to the city's finest street. Post-Offic E. — The United States Post-office, which was completed in 1884, occupies the entire square on Ninth Street between Market and Chestnut, having a front length FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA 71 of 484 feet, and a depth of 175 feet. It is built of granite, four lofty stories in height, with a dome reaching 170 feet above street level. The several departments of the post-office are arranged on the first floor, the other floors being devoted to a variety of purposes, including the United States Court Rooms, the Geological Survey, ^ POST OFFICE BUIUJING Coast Survey, Weather Bureau, Light-House Board, Secret Service, Signal Service, and offices of various officials of the Federal government. The cost of ground and building was approximately $9,500,000. The facilities of this large building, once thought sufficient for a long term of years, are already outgrown. 72 FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA despite the fact that there are numerous branch offices throughout the city, and the need of a more capacious building is being debated. The locahties suggested for this are on Market and Arch Streets, in positions giving convenient access to the Pennsylvania Railroad Station and car tracks. United States Mint. — One -of the important institu- tions which Philadelphia inherits from its former position as the Federal capital is the Mint, the location whence has issued in an unceasing gold, silver and copper stream the great flood of metallic money which supplies in this direction the needs of the people of the United States. Though mints in other cities were later established, for local convenience, Philadelphia remains the great center of coinage, especially of the minor coins, and that not only for this country, since the Philadelphia Mint is at present engaged in coining a large supply of gold for use in the republic of Cuba, and has also provided coin for Central and South American countries. The original Mint building was erected in 1792, on Seventh Street above Market. It soon proved inade- quate and was replaced (1829-33) by a building on Chestnut Street, west of Thirteenth. This in turn be- came inadequate, the 10,000,000 pieces coined here in 1833 having grown to about 100,000,000 pieces annually fifty years later. The total value in metal money coined in Philadelphia in the century after the establishment of the Mint was more than $1,000,000,000. The Mint building now occupies an ample site on Spring Garden Street, between Sixteenth and Seventeenth Streets, the new structure being deemed adequate to meet all demands for minting for many years to come. FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA 73 The handsome marble edifice erected is an ornament to the broad street on which it stands. In it is a valuable cabinet of ancient and modern coins, which are shown to visitors, together with the methods of coining, on each working day from 9 to 3 o'clock. In the Philadelphia Mint at the present time most of the minor coins of the country are made, cents having largely succeeded dollars in the outflow, they being in more demand for commercial purposes than dollars and eagles in these days of paper currency. The devices and dies for all coins used in the country are made here. Frankford Arsenal. — The Bridesburg United States Arsenal, commonly known as the Frankford Arsenal, is situated in the northern suburb of Bridesburg, and has a considerable frontage on Frankford Creek. Its grounds, more than sixty-two acres in extent, are enclosed by a stone wall and an iron fence, the space within being in part planted with trees and shrubbery. Ammunition and fire-arms are manufactured here and stored in magazines. Some large pieces of artillery have occasionally^ been con- structed in the works. It is now proposed to increase on a large scale the facilities of this institution, to pro- vide for possible future contingencies. Naval Asylum. — More interesting to the tourist is the Naval Asylum, a commodious building on the east bank of the Schuylkill River, at Bainbridge Street and Gray's Ferry Road, built by the United States as a home for retired man-of-war's men who have served for twenty years in the national navy. The "Home," as the main structure is called, consists of a central building, with wings, the front having a length of 380 feet, while the building is roomy enough to accommodate comfortablv 74 FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA three hundred inmates. The central building is reached by a broad flight of steps, the entrance being adorned by a handsome portico of eight Ionic columns supporting a pediment. The rooms of the residents are in the wings, each having a separate room, for the proper care of which he is held responsible. A fine attic and basement complete the building, which is substantially constructed in every part. The ceilings of two floors are vaulted in solid masonry and the room used as a muster room and chapel is a remarkably high-domed apartment. The institution is, in every respect, an "asylum," a place of rest for "de- crepit and disabled naval officers, seamen and marines." Within the grounds, about twenty-five acres in extent, is a government Naval Hospital, with accommodations for some three hundred and fifty patients, and to which mem- bers of the naval service of every degree of rank are ad- mitted. Near at hand, also on Gray's Ferry Road, are the grounds of the Schuylkill Arsenal, an old establishment, once perhaps an arsenal in the true sense, but now a huge gov- ernment clothing factory, giving employment to hundreds of operatives at their homes in making army clothing. One of the buildings contains a curious collection of wax figures dressed to represent the uniforms of United States soldiers at various historical periods. League Island Navy A^ard. — Philadelphia's most im- portant recent acquisition from the government is the Navy A^ard at League Island. This was founded in the Centennial year, 1876, and its development has had a desirable eft'ect upon what was once considered a hope- less region. This, known as "The Neck," is the low and flat part of the city where its two rivers run together FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA 75 and become one, long a region of marshes and mosquitos, piggeries and truck patches. xAt present this unprom- ising district is looking up. The village of small but comfortable houses built by the Girard Trust has cast over it an aspect of respectability, which is being added to by other building enterprises. It is penetrated by a handsome boulevard on the line of Broad Street, with an attractive plaza at its upper extremity, and League Island Park, a public pleasure ground approaching a square mile in area, at its river end. Here, just east of the inlet of the Schuylkill into the Delaware, lies League Island, bordering the Delaware shore for a length of two and a quarter miles, and of a width varying from a half to a quarter mile. It is four miles from the City Hall, on the line of Broad Street, and is separated from the shore by a Back Channel, deep and wide enough to serve as a safe and commo- dious harbor. The island has a total area of 928 acres, tlie river fronting it ))eing wide and deep. Such was the j^lace selected })y the government as a suitable site for a fresh- water navy yard, its location on an easily defensible river and in the near vicinity of the coal and iron fields of Pennsylvania being regarded as a great advantage. The work of adapting the island to its new purpose began with the building of spacious naval and machine shops and the construction of a dry- dock, the first vessels to be stationed there being some old monitors and the receiving ship Sf. Louis. These humblt^ l)eginnings have been followed by a great expansion of the Navy Yard, which has now grown to l)e the largest in the Ignited States, with ample facili- ties for all kinds of naval construction. The visitor to 76 FEDERAL INSTITUTIONS IN PHILADELPHIA the yard will find it fully adapted for sight-seeing, there being ten miles of driveway within its gates, while in its surrounding waters float a number of dreadnought battleships, with cruisers, gunboats, submarines and other warlike craft. iVt the beginning of 1916 there were pres- ent here eleven battleships in commission, also the lowa^ Indiana, and Massachusetts out of commission. This comprised nearly half the total number of United States battleships. The works on the island include a dry-dock of great capacity, warehouses, monster cranes, together with officers' cottages, marine barracks, gun-shops and other necessary buildings. There appears likely to be a great future for the League Island Navy Yard, in view of the fact that the govern- ment has it under consideration to build its own battle- ships. In case this is decided upon. League Island is in every respect the most available place, from its pro- tected interior situation and its nearness to the countr^^'s best resources of coal and iron. A number of battle- ships have already been built on the Delaware, at the Cramps' and the New York yards, and it will become a doubly important center of warship building if the government itself engages in this enterprise. PHILADELPHIA AS A COLLEGE TOWN 77 10. Philadelphia as a College Town. University of Pennsylvania. — This great educational institution, like Harvard, Yale, and some others, has been a result of slow growth from a humble origin through the centuries. It began in 1749, Franklin having an active hand in it, as in so many other Philadelphia enterprises. Its modest title was the "Academy and Charitable School," its location on Fourth Street below Arch, but it set a high standard from the first, and attracted many students. In 1755 it became "The College, Academy and Charitable School of Philadelphia"; in 1779 its property was transferred to a new board, entitled "The University of the State of Pennsylvania," and in 1791 the old college and the new university combined into one, under the present title 'of "The University of Penn- sylvania." A medical department had been added in 1765, one conducted so ably by the eminent men placed over it that it came to rank with the leading medical schools of Europe. The University found a home in the "Presi- dent's house," on Ninth Street south of Market, which President Washington had refused to occupy as too grand and expensive for him. This, and a building erected for the medical department, were eventually torn down and two large but plain buildings erected, and here the University remained until the government bought the site as a suitable one for a post-office. The literary department of the University was finally housed in a handsome green-serpentine group of buildings in West Philadelphia, near Thirty-fourth and Spruce Streets. COLLEGE HALL, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA ENGINEERING BUILDING OF UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA DENTAL HALL, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA PHILADELPHIA AS A COLLEGE TOWN 79 V. LAW SCHOOL, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA HOUSTON HALL, UNIVERSITY OF PENNSYLVANIA 80 PHILADELPHIA AS A COLLEGE TOWT^J INTERSECTION leasure resorts within easy reach." 144 THE METROPOLIS OF PENNSYLVANIA 20. The Metropolis of Pennsylvania. So FAR we have dealt with Philadelphia as confined within its municipal limits. Within this space 1,750,000 persons dwell. But the real Philadelphia, the Metropoli- tan City, the multitude of hives of industry which have grown up around the central municipality and of whose activities it is the true center, extends for miles in every direction around it, the total population included within the city and its circle of offsprings being estimated at 4,000,000. In this outer ring, or metropolitan district, may be included the Pennsylvania counties of Berks, Bucks, Chester, Delaware, Lancaster, Lebanon, Lehigh, Montgomery, and Northampton, with their 1,300,000 inhabitants; the nearby counties of New Jersey, with 600,000; the people of Newcastle County, Delaware, and the inhabitants of Atlantic City and other seaside resorts, outgrowths of the expansion of the Quaker City. Phila- delphia throws its mantle of commercial and industrial association over this wide district, in which are the smaller cities of Wilmington, Chester, Camden, Reading, Lan- caster, South Bethlehem, Coatesville, and various others, clustering like hives of busy bees around their great central city, to the numerous industrial plants of which they add some 30,000 others, some of these, like the Eddy- stone offshoot from Baldwin's, being simply transplanted sections of the city proper. Within this metropolitan district are 1,475 textile mills, of which 911 are in the central city and 460 in the Penn- sylvania counties named. Within these mills more than 200,000 workmen are employed, making this metropolis THE METROPOLIS OF PENNSYLVANIA 145 of industry in a double sense the world's largest textile center. The war in Europe brought to these establish- ments vast demands for textile goods, greatly increasing their normal output. And there is reason to believe that much of this active demand will survive the war. At present more money in the form of wages is flowing into the hands of Philadelphia artisans than in any other city in the country, and great part of this falls to the textile workers. Iron and steel are the basis of another line of goods in which metropolitan Philadelphia is exceptionally busy, the plants within the city itself being supplemented by numerous active ones in the surrounding towns, of which South Bethlehem is a place of enormous activity. As for Philadelphia itself, the newly organized Midvale Steel and Ordnance Company represents an outlying branch which occupies a part of the Baldwin plant at Eddystone, and is engaged in manufacturing 2,000,000 Enfield rifles for the British Government; 25,000 men are employed in this work. The duPont powder mills of Wilmington and its vicinity form another enterprising form of industry which adds an important share to the commercial standing of the metropolitan district. In Marcus Hook, a suburb of Chester, is one of the largest artificial-silk plants of the world. It is indeed not alone on war material that Philadelphia is engaged. Machinery of all sorts is made, especially textile machines, which give busy employment to more than a score of workshops. These produce not only the ordinary implements, but also special machinery, such as electric cloth-cutters, finishing boards, lock-stitch loopers, friction clutches, and other specialties. There is also an 146 THE METROPOLIS OF PENNSYLVANIA encouraging demand for milling tools, drills, and various other types of metal-working machinery. Wire is a prod- uct greatly in demand, also chain and other forgings, planes, lathes, pulleys, files, farm and garden implements, and many more varieties of metal tools and hardware than we have space to mention. In fact, nowhere else in the United States is high-grade manufacturing so cen- tralized. The production of patent medicines and compounds and druggists' preparations is prominent in this city, nearly 200 establishments being engaged in this line. The Powers-Weightman-Rosengarten Company is the largest maker of quinine-sulphate and morphine-sulphate in the country, and there are various other large manufacturers of drug materials. Philadelphia is also prominent in the leather industry; tanning, currying and finishing leather products being prosperous lines of labor. It is especially an important field for sole-leather and glazed-kid manu- facture. Including the works in Camden and Wilmington, seventy -five per cent, of the world's supply of goatskins are tanned and finished here, the capacity of the Philadelphia factories being in the neighborhood of 60,000,000 goat- skins a year. Another item of active Philadelphia industry is the manufacture of clothing, nearly 500 establishments being engaged in the production of men's and about 400 in that of women's clothing. These are a few of the active industries of Philadelphia, the total list being a long one. To those mentioned may be added bread and bakery products, petroleum refining, malt liquors, confectionery, paint and varnish, soap, brass and bronze goods, twine and cordage, paper and wood- THE METROPOLIS OF PENNSYLVANIA 147 pulp, fancy and paper boxes, furniture and refrigerators, and various other lines of manufacture. Omitting the surrounding districts, we may estimate in Philadelphia to-day 10,000 manufacturing plants, in which are employed 400,000 skilled workmen, their daily wages footing up to $1,000,000. If the metropolitan district be added, the daily wages would total $1,500,000, making in all a monthly payroll of $45,000,000. Coming now to commercial and financial business, Philadelphia possesses 1,000 wholesale mercantile houses, and has more than 100 banks, trust and saving-fund com- panies, with capital and surplus aggregating $170,000,000 and deposits of $600,000,000. Its saving-fund companies hold about $200,000,000, of which one, the Philadelphia Saving Fund, has over $100,000,000. Among its public institutions may be enumerated two universities, six med- ical schools, thirty-four hospitals, over eight hundred churches, and three hundred public schools, with many more institutions of diverse kinds. In value of products the first place must be granted to Philadelphia in hosiery and knit goods, rugs and carpets, fur and felt hats, loco- motives, ships, dyeing and finishing textiles, street cars, oil-cloth, linoleum, saws, and sporting and athletic goods. It ranks second in women's clothing, laces and millinery, woollen and felt goods, wool hats, leather, and sugar refining. What more may we say? A statistician makes the interesting estimate that for almost every minute of the day and night a railway train arrives in Philadelphia; every time the clock strikes $150,000 in value of newly made goods are handed out by the city workmen; the steam-railway tracks within the city are long enough to 148 THE METROPOLIS OF PENNSYLVANIA reach from Philadelphia to St. Louis; every day brings ocean steamships to our docks and sends others away; each minute of the banking day sees a hundred depositors pass money through the bank windows; when the nation is sick it comes to Philadelphia for drugs and doctors; and when the government needs a new battleship it can go to only one place and obtain such a ship complete from keel to 13-inch guns without trespassing upon a county line, and that place is Philadelphia. These are not all the items that might have been given, nor is the description of Philadelphia institutions in the foregoing pages intended to be exhaustive. Others of importance might have been mentioned, but enough have been spoken of to show the high standing which Phila- delphia has won among the world's centers of population. INDEX Academy of Fine Arts, 107, 108, 142 Academy of Music, 1 10, Academy of Natural Sciences, 100, 102, 104, 105 Acorn Club, 122 Adams, John, 19, 30 Adelphia Hotel, 123 Aldine Hotel, 123 American Philosophical Society, 8, 39, 104 Appraisers' Building, 137 Apprentices' Library, 32 Aquarium, Park, 54 Armory, First Regiment, 118 Arnold Mansion, 51 Art Club, 109, 122 Art in Fairmount Park, 54 Art Museum, 141 Articles of Confederation, 15, 17, 18 Asylums, Blind, 93; Deaf and Dumb, 94; Orphan, 94, 95 Athenaeum, the, 123 Athens of America, 24 Atlantic City, 142 Atlantic Waterway, 138 Audubon, John J., 24 . B Baldwin Locomotive Works, 20, 127 Baltimore and Ohio R. R., 137 Bank of United States, 19, 69, 70; of North America, 19, 40, 69 Bartram, John, 34 Bartram's Garden, 35 Battle of the Kegs, 16 Belle vue-Stratford Hotel, 123 Belmont Mansion, 52, 58 Bethany Church, 125 Betsy Ross, 22; House of, 31, 32 Bingham Hotel, 123 Biology, Museum of, 102 Blind, Asylum for the, 93 Blockley Almshouse, 66, 87 Board of Trade, 135 Boulevards, 46, 142 Bourse, the, 135 Brill's Car Works, 133 Broad Street, 3, 9, 61, 139 Brown, Charles Brockden, 24 Builders' Exchange, 135 Business section, 48, 49 Capital, Philadelphia as national. 10, 18, 19; as state, 23 Car lines, electric, 42—44 Carpenters' Hall, 11, 12, 30, 31 Carpet mills, 130, 131 Cathedral, Roman Catholic, 124 Cathedral Cemetery, 126 Centennial Exposition, 55 Central district, 115 Chamber of Commerce, 135 Chamouni, 53 (^barter School, 6, 34 Chemical works, 132, 146 Chew House, 16 Children's Hospital, 96 Christ Church, 36, 37, 124 Churches, 124 City Club, 122 149 150 INDEX City Hall, 59-62, 139, 140 City Institute, 100 City of Homes, 26 City Troop, 32 Clothing, manufacture of, 146 Clover Club, 122 Clubs, Philadelphia, 122 Clyde of America, the, 26, 128 Coal, anthracite, 21 Cold storage, 136 College of Physicians, 21, 91, 92 Colleges near Philadelphia, 81 Columbia Club, 122 Commerce, 23, 138 Commercial Museum, 100, 101 Confederation, Articles of, 15, 17, 18 Congress Hall, 19, 30 Congress, Stamp Act, 11; Continental, 11, 17; National, 18 Constitution, United States, 18 Constitutional Convention, 18 Contemporary Club, 122 Continental Hcstel, 123 Convalescents' Home, 9(5 Convention Hall, 141 Corn Exchange, 135 Country Club, Philadelphia, 122 Cramps' Shipyard, 128 Crippled Children, Home for, 96 Curtis Building, 118 Custom House, 70 D Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 94 Declaration of Independence, 14, 18 Delaware River, 1, 5; deepening of the, 44; channel of the, 67, 138 DelaAvare Water Gap, 143 Dennie, Joseph, 24 Dental colleges, 91 Department stores, 49 Departments, municipal, 62 Dispensary, Philadelphia, 119 Disston Saw Works, 129, 130 Dobson Carpet W^orks, 131 Drainage, 64, 65 Dressed kid, 133 Drexel Institute, 84 East Park Reservoir, 51 Eddystone Works, 128 Egglesfield, 52, 120 Electric railways, 42-44; lights, 63, 64 Elevated Railway, 140 Episcopal Academy, 119 Evans Dental Institute, 80, 91 Evans, Oliver, 21 Exchanges, 135 Fairmount Park, 50-58, 142 Falls of Schuylkill, 52 Farmers' Market, 136 Federal institutions, 69-76 Fine Arts, Academy of the, 107, 108, 142 First things in Philadelphia, 38, 39 Fitch, John, 21 Fitler Rope Works, 132 Five o'clock Club, 122 Flower Observatory, 80 Frankford Arsenal, 73 Franklin, Benjamin, 7, 9, 10, 17, 32, 77 Franklin Field, 48, 80 Franklin Institute, 105, 106 Freight railroad lines, 44 Friends, 5, 8 Friends' Grammar School, 6 INDEX 151 Friends' Insane Asylum, 95 Friends' Meeting, 36 Geographical Society, 122 German Hospital, 93 Germantown, battle of, 16; location of, 25; Academy, 81 Girard Bank, 69 Girard College, 82-84 Girard, Stephen, 23, 24, 69, 81 Goatskins, 133, 146 Godfrey, Thomas, 9 Grace Baptist Church, 80, 124 Graduates in Medicine, College of, 91 Grammar School, Friends', 6 Grand Opera House, 111 Grant's Cabin, 54 Green's Hotel, 123 Grocers' and Importers' Exchange, 135 H Hahnemann College, 90 Hamilton, Alexander, 19 Hats, Stetson, 131 Health and Charity Department, (id Henley of America, the, 48 High and Normal Schools, 86 High Street, 3, 48 Historical Society, 98 Holy Trinity Church, 124 Homes and asylums, 93-97 Hopkinson, Francis, 16 Horticultural Hall, 57 Horticultiu-al Society, 107 Hosiery, 131 Hospitals, 38, 66, 87, 92, 93, 95 House of Industry, 94 Houston Hall, 80 Howard Hospital, 95 I Incurables, Hospital for, 95; Homes for, 96 Independence, Declaration of, 14, 18 Independence Hall, 12, 13, 19, 28, 29 Industrial Art, School of, 56, 85 Industrial plants, 127-135 Insane, asylums for the, 66, 95 Jefferson Medical College, 89 Jefferson, Thomas, 14, 31 Junta Club, 104 Keystone Saw Works, 129, 130 Kid leather, 133, 146 Kirkbride's Insane Hospital, 66, 92 Knit goods, 131 L Laurel Hill Cemetery, 52, 53, 125 League Island Navy Yard, 74-76 League Island Park, 75 Leather, 133, 146 Lemon Hill, 53 Letitia Penn, 34 Liberty Bell, 14, 15, 16, 28, 29 Libraries, 8, 38, 98-100, 141 Lighting, city, 63 Lippincott, J. B., Co , 118 Logan, James, 9 Lu Lu Temple, 117 Lumbermen's Exchange, 135 M Manufactures of Philadelphia, 23, 26, 27,127-134, 138, 145-148 Manufacturers' Club, 122, 135 Maritime Exchange, 135 15^2 INDEX Market Street, 3, 48 Markets, 13G Masonic Temple, 117 Master Builders' Exchange, 135 Mechanical trade schools, 85 Medical College, University, 87; Jef- ferson, 89; Woman's, 89 Medical Hall, 88 Medical schools, 38 Medico-Chirurgical College, 89 Memorial Hall, 56, 57, 85, 103 Mercantile Club, 1£2 Mercantile Library, 99 Merchants' Exchange, 69 Meschianza, the, 16, 17 Metropolitan Opera House, 110, 111 Metropolitan Philadelphia, 144 Midvale Steel Works, 129, 145 Mint, United States, 20, 21, 72, 73 Monument Cemetery, 126 Morris, Robert, 19, 24, 51, 69 Mount Peace Cemetery, 126 Mount Pleasant Mansion, 51 Mount Moriah Cemetery, 126 Mount Vernon Cemetery, 126 Mummers' parade, 113, 114 Museums, 100-103 Musical Fund Hall, 111 N National Museum, 103 Natural Sciences, Academy of, 100, 102, 104, 105 Naval Asylum, 73, 74 Navy Yard, League Island, 74-76 Neck, the, 74 New Century Club, 122 New York Shipbuilding Co., 26, 128 O Old Ladies' Home, 96 Old Men's Home, 97 Orphan asylums, 94, 95 Osteopathic College, 90 Paine, Thomas, 9 Paper mills, 134 Parks, ball and entertainment, 47 Parks, musical, athletic, etc., 112, 113 Parkway, the, 140, 141 Paving, city, 64 Pen and Pencil Club, 122 Pencoyd Iron Works, 129 Penn Club, 122 Penn House, 33, 34, 52 Penn, John, 52 Penn Statue, 60 Penn, William, 1, 3, 5, 25, 116 Pennsylvania Dutch, 6; Gazette, 7; Hospital, 38, 66, 67, 87; Museum, 85, 103 ; Railroad Company, 136, . 137 Peters, Judge, 52 Pharmacy, College of, 90 Philadelphia, site of, 2; plan, 3; name, 4; settlement, 5; population, 8; colo- nial capital, 11; national capital, 14, 18; British occupation, 16; pop- ulation in 1800, 23; consolidation, 25; to-day in, 26, 41; first things, 38, 39; streets, 45, 46; commerce, 67; size, 139; population, 144; man- ufactures, 144-147 Philadelphia and Reading Railway, 137 Philadelphia Club, 120 Philadelphia Dispensary, 119 Philadelphia Hospital, 66, 87 Philadelphia Library, 39, 98 Philadelphia streets, 45, 46 Photoplays, 113 Physicians, College of, 21, 91, 92 Piers, 137 INDEX 153 Pine Street Church, 01.1, 38 Police system, 65 Port facilities, 44 Post Office, 70-72 Powers -\\ eightman- Rosen garten Chemical Works, 132, 146 Presbyterian churches, old, 38, 124 Preston Retreat, 96 Public Library, 98. 99, 141 Public schools, 86 Q Quaker City, Quakers, 5 4, 8, 11 R Railroad stations, 42 Railways, electric, 42-44 Rapid transit, 139 Reading Railway Terminal, 42, 43 Ridgway Library, 98 Rittenhouse Club, 120 Rittenhouse, David, 9 Ritz-Carlton Hotel, 123 River channel, Delaware, 67, 138 Rush, Dr. Benjamin, 39, 87 Saint James Church, 124 Saint James Hotel, 123 Saint Mary's Church, 38 Saint Paul's Church, 37 Saint Peter's Church, 37 School of Design for Women, 85, 86 Schuylkill River, 2; Navy, 48, 53, 123 ; Arsenal, 73 Scotch-Irish, 6 Shipbuilding, 26, 128, 129 Shopping district, 48 Smith Memorial, 54, 55 Smith's Island, 67 Speedway, motor, 113 Squares, public, 47 Stars and Stripes, the, 22 State capital, 23 State House, 12, 28 State in SchuylkilL 120 Statuary, Park, 54; City Hall, 61 Steam travel, origin of, 21 Steamboat, the, 21, 22 Stenton Hotel, 123 Stetson hats, 131 Stock Exchange, 135 Strawberry Mansion, 52 Street cars, 133 Sub-treasury, 70 Suburbs, 25, 41, 42 Subway, 43, 140 Sugar refineries, 132, 133 Supplies, Department of, 68 Swedes' Church, Old, 35, 36 T Temple, the, 125 Temple University, 81, 89, 125 Textile industries, 130, 131 Theatres, 112 Trade schools, 85, 136 Transit system, 68 Trinity Church, 36 Trolley car lines, 42 Turnpike, Lancaster, 21 U Union League, 121 United States flag, 22 University Club, 122 University Museum, 101 University of Pennsylvania, 21, 77-81, 88 \' Valley Forge, 16, 143 Vaudeville theatres, 113 Vendig Hotd, 123 Veterinary Hospital, 87 154 INDEX W Wagner Institute of Science, 106 Walton Hotel, 123 Washington, George, 16, 18, 19, 30, 77 Washington Monument, 53, 54 Water front, 24 Water supply, 63 Welsh Tract, 6 West, Benjamin, 39 West Laurel Hill Cemetery, 125 Widener art collection, 142 William Penn Charter School, 6, 34 Willow Grove Park, 47 Wilson, Alexander, 24, 39 Wilstach Gallery. 56, 103, 109, 142 Windsor Hotel, 123 Wlssahickon Creek, 50 Wistar Institute, 80 Witherspoon Hall, 122 Woman's Medical College, 89 Woodlands Cemetery, 125 Woodside Park, 47 Y Young Men's Christian Association, 119 Young Women's Christian Associa- tion, 119 Z Zoological Garden, 53 STREET DIRECTORY NORTH No. 1 No. 1 Market, Filbert, Commerce, 2800 Somerset. Church. 2900 Cambria. 100 Arch, Cherry. 3000 Indiana Ave. 200 Race. 3100 Clearfield. 300 Vine, Wood. 3200 Allegheny Ave. 400 Callowhill, Willow, Noble, Ham- 3300 Westmoreland. ilton. 3400 Ontario. 500 Buttonwood, Spring Garden. 3500 Tioga. 600 Green, Mt. Vernon, Wallace, 3600 Venango. Melon. 3700 Erie Ave. 700 Fairmount Ave., Olive. 3800 Butler. 800 Brown, Parrish, Ogden. 3900 Pike. 900 Poplar, Laurel, George. 4000 Luzerne. 1200 Girard Avenue, Stiles. 4100 Roxborough. 1300 Thompson, Seybert. 4200 Juniata. 1400 Master, Sharswood. 4300 Bristol. 1500 Jefferson. 4400 Cayuga. 1600 Oxford. 4500 Wingohocking. 1700 Columbia Ave. 4600 Court! and. 1800 Montgomery Ave. 4700 Wyoming Ave. 1900 Berks. 4800 Louden. 2000 Norris. 4900 Rockland. 2100 Diamond. 5000 Ruscombe. 2200 Susquehanna Ave. 5100 Lindley Ave. 2300 Dauphin. 5200 Duncannon Ave 2400 York. 5300 Fishers Ave. 2500 Cumberland. 5400 Somerville Ave. 2600 Huntingdon. 5500 (^arkson Ave. 2700 Lehigh Ave. 5600 Olney Ave. STREET DIRECTORY No. SOUTH 1 No. 1 Market, Ludlow. ' 2400 Ritner. 100 Chestnut, Sansom, Dock. ' 2500 Porter. 200 Walnut, Locust. 2600 Shunk. 300 Spruce, DeLancey. 2700 Oregon Ave. 400 Pine. 2800 Johnson. 500 Lombard, 2900 Bigler. 600 South. 3000 Pollock. 700 Bainbridge, Monroe, Fitzwater. 3100 Packer. 800 Catharine. 3200 Curtin. 900 Christian. 3300 Geary. 1000 C^arpenter. 3400 Hartranft. 1100 Washington, Ellsworth. 3500 Hoyt. 1200 Federal. 3600 Pattison. 1300 Wharton. 3700 Beaver. 1400 Reed. 3800 Hastings. 1500 Dickinson, Greenwich. 3900 Stone Ave. 1600 Tasker. 4000 Pennypacker Ave 1700 Morris, Watkins. 4100 Stuart Ave. 1800 Moore. Siegel. 4200 Tener Ave. 1900 Mifflin. 4300 Avenue 43rd. 2000 McKean. 4400 Avenue 44th. 2100 Snyder Ave. 4500 Avenue 45th. 2200 Jackson. Government Ave. 2300 Wolf.;" League Island. INDEX TO STREET CAR ROUTES Line Route Allegheny x\ venue 60 Baltimore — Subway 34 Baring — Subway 38 Bridesburg— 2nd & 3rd 59 Callowhill & Vine 66 Catharine & Bainbridge 63 Chelten Avenue 52 Chester 76 Chester Avenue 13 Chester Avenue — 42nd 82 Chester Short Line 37 Columbia— 8th & 9th 51 Doylestown 22 Eighth & Ninth 47 Elmwood Avenue 36 Erie Avenue 56 Fairmount — Arch 48 Federal & Wharton 64 Fifteenth & Sixteenth 2 Fifty-Second— Bala 70 Fifty-Second — Parkside 35 Fifty-Eighth & Sixtieth 46 Fox Chase— 4th & 5th 50 Frankford — Bridesburg 73 Franlcford— 2nd & 3rd 5 Frankford— 6th & 7th 4 Frankford— 12th & 13th 3 Germantown— 6th & 7th 19 Germantown Ave. — 10th & 11th.. 23 Girard Avenue 15 Glenside 49 Gray's Ferry 12 Hatboro 74 Haverf ord — Subway 30 Hunting Park— 19th & 20th 33 Island Road 83 Jefferson & Master 57 Kensington— 6th & 7th 26 Kensington— 12th & 13th 27 Lancaster — Arch 84 Line Route Lancaster — Subway 10 Lansdowne 78 Lehigh Avenue 54 Lombard & South 40 Luzerne— 10th & 11th 6 Manayunk 61 Market— 63rd 31 Market— 69th 41 Media 71 Middletown 77 Moores 72 Morris & Tasker 29 N orris & Susquehanna 8 North— 2nd & 3rd 28 North— 17th & 18th 21 North— 19th & 20th 16 Olney Avenue 75 Olney— 4th & 5th 62 Overbrook — Arch 44 Parkside — Green 25 Passyunk Avenue 81 Point Breeze 80 Richmond— 22nd & 23rd 18 Sixty-Third 69 Snyder Avenue 79 South 17th & 18th 32 South 19th & 20tli 17 Spring Garden 43 Strawberry— 4th & 5th 9 Strawberry— 22nd & 23rd 7 Thirty-Third & Thirty-Sixth 67 Torresdale Avenue 58 Twelfth & Thirteenth 20 Wayne— 12th & 13th 53 West Spruce 42 Woodland — Subway 11 York & Dauphin 39 York Road— 4th & 5th 65 York Road— 10th & 11th 55 York Road— 15th & 16th 24 LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 311 902 6 4k