^' V.^;^'.^^'"°V\--.\^;--.o^....^^" ^^^0^ ^> ^•5°. ly LYNN SURROUNDINGS Clarence W, Hobbs. ILLUSTRA TED. 1886. Entered accordiuac to Act of Congress, in the year 18S6, by I.KAvis & WiNSHip, Publishers, in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at AVasiiiugton. ><< naex. List of Illustrations, Preface, ..... "High Rock," .... Inlroduction — "Lynn and Surroundings," Saugus, ..... " Saugust is called Lin," Lynn Legends. Bride of Pennacook, The Pirates' Glen, . Dungeon Pock, Treasure of Pines Point, The Quaker Invasion, The Witchcraft Tragedy, Moll Pitcher, .... The Sea Serpent, .... City of Lynn, .... Leading Industries, Among the Churches . Glimpses of the Town, Organizations, .... Some Lynn People, Lynn and Surroundings, Pages 4, 5, 6 35 36 38 40 44 50 55 59 62 68 82 102 [23, '55 ^isi of ^UusiPaiiens. Frontispiece— High Rock, Title Heading — Lynn and Surroundings, Natural Scenery.— Foot of Nahant street, Across the Marshes, Cliff' Rock Lake Wenuchus, A Ghmpse cjf the Marsh, Phaeton Rock, Floating Bridge, Great Dwarf J .e^^^^^^fe"- p YXN is like no other Ne ■y Both in situation and si are found within her borders. Jew England city, lundings, she has a beauty and a charm all her own, and m her natural iDhysical characteristics is displayed a marked individuality. All the varied scenes of town, sea-shore and country ' The former drives his team afield " not far from the stirring mart, and the fisherman mends his nets in sight of the tower- ing, smoke- wreathed chimneys of the large factories. But a short distance northward from the City Hall are bosky dells between the hills where one may hide, and many peaceful lakes where the wanderer mav catch the reflection of wooded shore and shadowy cloud ; while nearer still, in the opposite direction, is the smooth beach, where one may walk the shining sand, j^lunge beneath the curling breakers, or from the neighboring clifl' count the sails and watch the mighty pulsations of the restless heart of ocean, as with ceaseless throbs she sends the wavelets hurrying toward the shore. Or, better still, if one has but an hour for sight-seeing, let him climb the stairs to the top of the rugged observ- atory built by nature, ages before man built the town, and a wondrous panorama unfolds before his eyes. At his feet lie the city and the shore ; on the landward side the view is limited only by the dark background of evergreen-clad hills, while toward the sea the scene dies a\vay in the purple haze which hangs like a veil over the bosom of the ocean. No point of view on the Atlantic gives a larger return for so little effort, and no otlier city of the New World can boast of suciian endless variety of landscape and sea-view, hill and valley, lake and river, cottage-crowned cliff and rock-bound shore, with the bright waters of the bay 14 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. dimpling and sparkling in the sunlight. On a clear day the scene is full of life and light, and is inspiring and exhilarating in a high degree. But when the storm cloud hangs over the waters, and the huge waves seem to gather their forces for a final assault upon the opposing rocks, and the spray flies in clouds far vip on the shore, the scene is full of grandeur. Let us together visit High Rock, and see these things for ourselves. One hundred and seventy feet to the tojD ; and approached from the northward, the ascent is gradual and easy ; but on the seaward side both wind and limb get well tested, though the climb is now facilitated by successive flights of steps set in an iron frame-work upon the face of the clift'. There was once a wooden tower on the summit of the rock, but one night it disappeared in smoke ; and now we take our stand upon the bare rock, or lean against the flag-staft'. The eye naturally turns first toward the sea. At the left is the village of Swampscott, with its cluster of fishing-boats and white beach covered with dories and fishing-nets spread out to dry. Further out is Baker's Island, with its light, the white towers of Marblehead, and on a clear day is seen the distant headland of Cape Ann. Off" to the right are the dark brown monument of Bunker Hill and the gilded dome on Beacon Hill. Further to the north we get a glimpse of Wachusett rising above the succession of lesser hills, and to the south the Blue Hills of JSIilton lie misty in the distance. Neai'er stretches out the graceful curve of Crescent Beach, and directly in front of us MAPLE STREET. GLEXMERE. is tlie harbor, its bounds determined on the one hand by the Point of Pines, and on the other by the dark rocks of the Nahants — those twin gems of the North Shore, connected with the mainland only by a narrow neck of sand — " A snowy ribbon, fringed with foam." Lying low in the waters of the bay, seemingly no larger than a fisherman's dory, is Egg Rock, with its white light-house, for thirty years a faithful sentinel on a dangerous coast. Around to the northeast are seen the hills and plains of GOLD-FISH POND. 15 Danvers and Peabody, while through a gap in the hills we catch a glimpse of our near neighbor, Salem. Back from the town stretch a ledgy range of hills— of which High Rock is the most easterly — their sides clothed witlfdark green trees, save where these have given way to beautiful cottages, and occasionally a more stately residence ; and each of them has its name : Lover's Leap, a steep cli:r one hundred feet high from its base, and one hundred and thirty from the sea level ; Pine Hill, two hundred and twenty-four feet high, at the southwestern extremity of which is Saddler's Rock, one hundred and sixty feet high ; and among them are the Pirates' Cave, Dungeon Rock, Glen Lewis, and many other beautiful spots made doubly interesting by the halo of legend and romance which surrounds their names. At our feet lies the city, circling around on either side and climbing the sides of the hill until many of its houses nestle under the very edge of the rock on which we stand. Northeast of us lie the pretty villages of Wyoma and Glenmere, and the once beautiful lake, bearing the musical name of the Indian maiden, Wenuchus. In its waters our foremothers rotted their flax, whence came its more practical and homely name. Now the useful but prosaic ice- house sadly mars the symmetry of its shores. Further to the east Gold-fish ' hi '^::~^-^—~-"^"'^'"' GOLD-FISH POXD, FAYETTE STREET. Pond lies like a gem in the sunlight, while crowning the eminence which overlooks the bay are hundreds of beautiful residences, half hid among the leafv branches of the elms and maples. Directly to the southwest, beUveen us and the harbor, is the manufacturing district. At this distance we hear little of the noise of the cit}-, but we can see the busy life as it pours up and down the streets. The buildings ha^•e a substantial and prosperous appear- ance, and are admirably adapted to the great industry of the city. What a contrast between these solid structures of brick and the low wooden shops in which the slioe business of Lynn was transacted bei'ore the trade of shoemaking IQ , LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. had been evolved into a science ! As we turn toward the west, we see that the circus-field of our boyhood has become thickly populous ; and over the thick- leaved trees of the Common, which, from this standpoint, hide the shape thereof — so appropriate to the City of Shoes — we can see the white- walled homes of West Lynn stretching far out toward the Saugus River ; and beyond, as the sun is setting, we catch a glimpse of the shadowy hills and salty flats of the towns beyond.* In our sweep we have counted the spires of the churches and the towers of the school-houses, admired the proportions of the City Hall, and marked where the t%vo roads stretch their converging lines of rails toward Boston. We can dimly see the gray stones in the old Burying Ground, where sleep the worthies of the colonial days, and to the north, gleaming fair, the white monuments of the more modern but equally silent city of the dead. There is little in this busy modern city to remind us that it has a history, and that the white man first trod the spot where w^e stand, more than two centuries and a half ago. The city of the fathers is no more — gone out as com- pletely and permanently as the ways and methods of the cordwainers who first plied their trade in her little shops. The makers of the labor-saving machines made over the somewhat scattered and straggling town of Lynn into a thriving and prosperous city, which refuses to believe the census-taker who says we have not yet fifty thousand inhabitants. ^J^SM^^ FOOT OF >AI1ANT blUEET. L^ '■"■^^T^,^^.^ "I A^HAT time the first white man set his foot upon the soil of Lynn, or who I^Jr he was, history revealeth not. Legends of a visit by Thorwald, with a ^^ company of sturdy Norsemen, to Nahant in the eleventh century, as well I I as tales of explorations in these waters by the early English adventurers, Gosnold and Pring, are preserved ; but their foundation is obscure, if not doubt- ful. It is reasonably certain, however, that in 1614 Capt. John Smith, having established his Virginia colony, sailed northward on a voyage of exploration ; and in his excellent description of the coast, he mentions the IVIattahunts as two islands of great beauty, and gives such a minute descrijotion of the bay and surroundings as to leave little doulit that he explored the beauti- ful peninsula, but had mistaken the pronunciation of the Lidian name, Xa- hanteau. In i6zz the whole territory known as the Massachusetts, extending ten miles northeast from the Charles River, including Saugus and the Na- hants, was granted to Capt. Robert Gorges ; but he failed to perfect his title to his j^rincely domain, and left his heirs only a series of vexatious law- suits, \vhich were decided against them. The settlement of Salem was begun in 1625 by the famous Roger Conant, who came thither with the remnant of the CajDC Ann colony. On the 19th of March, 1628, the Council in Eng- land sold all that part of Massachusetts between three miles north of the Charles River and three miles south of the Mer- CLIFF ROCK, NEAR PEABODV LINE. 18 LYNX AND SURROUNDINGS. rimack to a company of six gentlemen, among whom was Mr. John Humphrey, who afterward became an honored citizen of Lynn. Until that time the Indians had held undisputed possession of the country. Essex County was included in the domain of Nan- B apashemet, the mighty chief of the Pawtuckets, who sometimes made his home near the falls of the Merrimack, and occasionally on Sagamore Hill, at the eastern end of our city. But in a ongand bloody war with the Tarratines, those tei'rible fight- ers of eastern New England, Nana- pashemet, the New !Moon, had gone down in a crimson sky : and a terrible scourge, occurrmg shortl}- after, had so reduced the num- bers of the Indians that when the first ^ settlers came, there were only scatteringvillages here and there, presided over by local sa- chems, and the old warlike spirit of the noble red men had given place to a more peaceful disposi- tion, and a readiness to receive whatever in the way of benefits the hand of the white men might bring. They were entirely will- ing to sell whatever land the settlers desired, and did not hesi- tate to sell the same parcel as many times over as they could find a purchaser — a practice prolific of trouble for the settlers and business for the courts. The Indians are represented to have been tall and well-formed, and one impressionable writer speaks of "the unparalleled beauty" of the Indian maidens, describing them as having "very good features, seldom SAUGUS. 19 without a comc-to-me in their countenance, all of them black-eved, liavin<^ even, short teeth, and very white, their hair bhick, thick and long, broad-breasted, handsome, straight bodies, and slender, thin limbs, cleanly, straight, generally plump as a partridge, and, saving now and then one, of modest deportment ; " and another says : " The Indesses that are young are some of them very comelv. Many prettie Bi-ownettos and spider-fingered lassies may be seen among them." No doubt the national costume of the Indians aflbrded abundant facilities for accurate personal description. THE FIRST MAP OF SAUfiUS Lewis, wa-iting in 1S44, gravely informs us that Lynn '• is much smaller than it was before the towns of Saugus, Lynnfield, Reading and South Reading were separated from it." Since that time the towns of Swampscott and Nahant have taken up separate existence. All the territory comprising these towns was called l)y the Indians, Saugus, Salem was known as Naimikeag, JNIarblehead as Alassabequash, and the territory lying southwest of Saugus had the musical appellation of Winnisimet, but it was included in the territory of ]Mystic, which, afterward became Boston. The marsh now lying partly in Chelsea and partly in Saugus wos called Rumney marsh. When the white men came, Winne- poyekin — the Winnepurkit of Whittier's Bride of Pennacook — eldest son of Nanapashemet, " He whose name the Mohawk trembhng heardj'' ruled the territory of Xaumkeag, Montowampate was sachem of Saugus, and Poquanam of Nahant — all of them sons of Nanapashemet. The whites gave these three sagamores the less melodious but more pronounceable names of Sagamore James, Sagamore George No-nose and Duke William. It is evident that the '• power and regal consequence" attributed to the Saugus chieftains had failed to impress the settlers as anything overwhelming. Most of the Indians, hereabouts lived on Sagamore Hill, near the end of Long Beach, at Swamp- 20 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS scott, and at Nahant. Saugus signifies great or extended, and was used by the Indians to designate the long beach which stretched out in front of their official residence. The river which now goes by that name was called by the Indians, Abousett. Nahant is a shortening of the Indian term Nahanteau, signifying the twins, and for many years the settlers adopted the Indian formula, and spoke of the two islands as the Nahants. When, therefore, in 1629 — probably in the leafy month of June — Edmund and Francis Ingalls, not liking the atmos- phere of the Endicott settlement at Salem, set out to find a place to " set themselves downe," under the roving permission, given by the blufl' and some- times peppery Governor, to go where it pleased them, came hitherward search- ing for a suitable location where they might carve themselves out a home, the\' found a broken country, thickly covered with the primeval forest, save where, here and there, the Indians had cleared small patches, where they planted their pumpkins, beans and corn. Without doubt they climbed High Rock to get the lay of the land, and as their eyes drank in the beautiful prospect, perhaps they felt in their hearts, as Thorwald is said to have done when he landed on Nahant : " Here it is beautiful, and here I would like to fix my dwelling." Edmund chose "a fayre plaine " beside a sedgy lakelet, on what is now called Fayette street, and Francis selected a spot nearer the beach in vSwampscott, where he built the first tannery in New England. Newhall, in Ills Jewels of the Third Plantation, giv^es a charming pictui'e of the building of the first log cabin. There accompanied Edmund Ingalls from Salem, when he was ready to com- mence his habitation, a goodly company, who lent willing hands to the work. The corner stone, or, more properly, the corner log, was laid with earnest exhorta- tion and lengthy prayer, and tradition has it that one Zachariah Hart Avorked harder, prayed longer and swore louder than any other man in the compan}'. Three other families came to Lynn that year— William Dixey, who remained here some years, but finally removed to Salem ; William Wood, who subsequently left to begin with others the settlement of Sandwich ; and John Wood, who lived on the corner of Essex and Chestnut streets, and from him that locality has ever since been called Woodend. The Indians received the settlers kindly, and I'endered them assistance in many ways, and, in return, received many benefits from the hands of the colonists. The following year saw nearly fifty families added to the number of settlers, who took up land in various portions of the plantation, and this year was born Thomas Newhall, the first white child who saw the light in Lynn. These settlers were principally farmers, who brought with them from England many of the necessaries and comforts of life, and possessed a large stock of cattle. The sheep, goats and swine were for many years pastured on .Nahant, the danger from catamounts, bears and wolves being so great tliat the constant services of a shepherd were required for their protection. The Saugus freemen took their seats in the General Court in 1630, an act which constituted EARLY HOMES I\ SAUGUS. SAUGUS. 21 all the incorporation the town ever had. The let^islators had mostly come from the walks of private life, and were unskilled in the mysteries of statecraft. Besides, the General Court had its calendar full of business, being called upon to regulate many of the most trifling details of everyday life, to say nothing of exercising a general oversight of the religious opinions of the settlers. As a consequence, many things which were well enough were suffered to stand, by common consent. But the progress of the settlers was measurably rapid. Their habitations, which at the first were roughly built of logs and thatched with straw or sedge, were improved ; farming tools became more abundant, and preparation was made for the common defense by the organization of a military company, which had two '•great sakers," or iron cannon. The surrounding Indians, seeing the growing power of the settlers, had begun to be uneasy and less friendly ; although the local sachems continued to regard the settlers kindly, the sad experiences of the other colonies warned the dwellers in Saugus to be on their guard. No outbreak ever occurred in this vicinity, but twenty-six men from Saugus took part in the King Philip war and participated in the swamp fight, which proved the death-blow to the power of the mighty Sassacus. During the first few years the religious privileges of the set- tiers were limited, the nearest minister being at Salem, and to '!' attend service there the settleis hatl to tra\eise a load well-nigh impassable from stumps and lockb. In i6^|. the Rev. Stephen Bachilcr came to Saugus, and the Fust Chuich \\a^ organi/e( The first meeting-house wa^, situated on the coiner of _ Shepard and vSummei stieets. It was a log buildmg- set in a hollow for ]:)ri)tLLti()ii fiom tin. ^^ iiid-. ii.d like LAKE WENUCHUS, OR FLAX POND. many of the early dwelling-houses, the floor was sunk "r.---^ '^ several feet below the surface of the ground outside, and entrance was had only by a descent of several steps. Trouble soon arose between Mr. Bachiler and his flock, and in 1636 he was succeeded by Rev. Samuel Whiting, a most godly man. Under his fostering care the church became united and prosperous, and the foundation was laid so deep and strong that the church continues to tills day with no substantial change in form or d(jctrine, the oldest orthodox Congregational Church in the w^orld. The form iind appearance of the town has undergone several transformations ; new sects 22 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. and new doctrines have arisen, few of wliich remain ; but amid all the clash and tumult of sect and faction, and the changes in the customs and manners of the people, the old First Church has stood, a monument to that sturdy Puritan faith which would sooner face the terrors and hardships of a home in the wilderness than oppression and interference in matters of conscience, and which has been transmitted from father to son for ten generations. With 1637 ends what maybe termed the first period of our history. In the eight years of its existence the colony has so rapidly increased in numbers that an assistant to the minister had been installed, farms cleared and stocked, mills built, and a ferry established over the Saugus River ; altogether the colony was contented and prosperous. A Glimpse of the Marshes. ©a llei O UCH is the quaint and entire official record of the legishition by which our vJ city came to be called by its new name, the action of the General Court f necessary thereto taking place on the 15th of November, 1637. The name i was given in compliment to Rev. Samuel Whiting, who had come hither from King's Lynn, in England. Tlie name in its original form, k/i, signify- ing " spreading waters," was thought to be specially applicable to this spot, with its beautiful bays and its nine forest-girt lakelets scattered here and there. The name was written by the settleis •• ^ouil- what accortling to the taste and fancv of the speller Lin, Linn, L^n, Lynn and Lynne. "Xhe lil^erties taken ^TynnfielS^r''6a'!)^^^ with the orthography of the \vord were no greater than was done with most other words of the language, for it seems as though some of the early writers tried to n>ake their manuscripts as grotescjue as possilile. Some time was required to familiarize the people with the new name. For several vears Saugus and Lynn were interchangeable terms, and sometimes the name of the place was written '• Lvnn at Saugus." Notwithstanding the change of name, the affairs of the colony ran on in their usual and uneventful course. Population gradually increased, better roads were constructed, bridges built, and schools opened, where the boys became acquainted with the rule of three and the 24 LYXN AND SURROUNDINGS. schoolmaster's ferule, the heroic method of instruction being then the popular idea. Very little attention was given to the education of females, it being deemed of more importance that they should be skilled in domestic arts. The Iron Works were established in Saugus in 1643, and for several years continued to be the only, as they were the first, manufacture of the .:. . :;;ai;.^.. kind in the colonies. They continued an eventful but ^^ unprofitable existence for many years, the chief ob- i -^^^ 1 stacle to their success being '^ the scarcityof money among their customers. The ore used was bog iron, ^^'hich was quite abundant, and the fur- naces turned out a good gi'ade of charcoal iron. Three years later Lynn was made a market town, and Tuesdays were given to a general interchange of commodities among the inhabitants, and the Market Street occasionally took on an animated appear- ance, scarcely rivalling, however, the bustle and brilliancy of a modern Saturday evening. Until the years closely following 1650, the settlers had their religious affairs very much their own way, and doubtless thought they had secured the poet's ideal — " Freedom to worship God." The teachings of George Fox, and the bitter persecution accorded him in Eng- land, had not been unnoted in the New World, and "'^ ^^ <^4. ^ the people had begun to take sides in the controversy when the first Qiiakers landed in Boston in 1656.' The colonial authorities were quick to imitate tlicii English cousins in their methods of dealing with tl ^ FLOATING BRIDGE. unvvclcume visitors. The Irecdoiu of w^orship which they had found, they were wholly unwilling to accord to the visiting Qiiakers, and they were promptly imprisoned and sent back to England on the first departing vessel. The record of the next few years forms a terrible chapter in our history. The whipping-post and the gallows had their fre- quent Qiiaker victims, and it was not till twenty 'SAUGUST IS CALLED LIN.' 25 years after that the authorities discovered that these were the least efiective means ever devised for checking tlie growth of a rehgious idea. The Qiiakers continued to multiply until there were over one hundred families in Lynn, and it was not until opposition was withdrawn and they were left to themselves that they were found to be a simple and harmless body, with many of the ordinary frailties common to our human nature. Scarcely had the excitement over Qiiakerism begun to decline when the bugaboo of w itchcraft arose to vex the iighteous souls ot the scttleis. Salem village, now '^'-^[fi^'^f^ ' r I poition ot Dc m^wjpj^: ^?a?^^ 5F POCK, Ni_AR GLEN LE/v'IS iTvcis, was headquarters for the li ange delusion, but Lynn was l)v no means left out m the cold. On the con- tiai\, she took an active pait m the strange and t ei I ible tragedies, and fur- nished herquota of alleged \\ itches, and an occasional wi/aid The excitement Luhnm ited in 1692, and notw itlistanding the violence of the outbieak, subsided as (|uickl\ as it had arisen. Tlie old loir meetinsr- house, which for half a century served the spiritual needs of the colonv, was removed, in 1682, from .Sliepard street to the center of the Common, and con- verted into a more pretentious edifice, which, from its peculiar shape, has gone into history by the name of the Old Tunnel. The Rev. Samuel Whiting, for forty years the faithful pastor and earnest preacher, passed to his rest in 1679, and shortly after, the Rev. Jeremiah Shepherd came to fill his post. Mr. Shep- herd had few of the characteristics of his predecessor. He was a positive spirit- ual force, and stirred vqD the church to greater outward effort and efficacy than it had before shown. But he was also of a fiery and somewhat irascible disposi- tion, and mixed as freely in the worldly as the spiritual contentions of his time. He was a man of strong mental power — a discourse three hours long was not an uncommon feat for him ; but whether this habit was in any way the occasion of the enactment by the General Court of a law compelling everyone to attend meeting, is not stated. But a similar habit on the part of his predecessor was the occasion of this c^uaint paragraph in the Journal of Obadiah Turner, one of the early lights of Lynn : " Allen Bridges hath bin chose to wake ye sleepers in meeting, and being much proud of his place, must needs have a fox taile fixed to ye end of a long staff, wherewith he may brush ye faces of them yt will have napps in time of discourse; likewise a sharpe thorne, wherewith he may prick such as be most sounde. On ye laste Lord his day, as hee strutted about ye meeting-house, hee did spy Mr. Tomlins sleeping with much comforte, hys head kept steadie by being in ye corner, and hys hand grasping ye rail. And so spying, Allen did quicklie thrust his staff behind Dame Ballard, and give hjm a grievous prick upon ye hand. Whereupon Mr. Tomlins did spring vpp mch above ye floore, and with terrible force strike with hys hand against ye wall, and also, to ye great wonder of 26 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. all, prophainlie exclaime in a loude voice : 'Cuss ye woodchuck; ' he dreaming, as it seemed, yt a woodchufk had seized and bit his hand. But on comeing to know where he was and ye great scandall he had committed, he seemed much abashed, but did not speake. And I think he will not soone againe go to sleepe in meeting. Ye women may sometimes sleepe, and none know it by reason of their enormous bonnets. Mr. Whiting doth pleasantlie say yt from ye pulpit, he doth seeme to be preaching to stacks of straw, with men sitting here and there among them." In 16S3, following the example of their neighbors round about, the people of Lynn succeeded in perfecting their title to their lands, by deed from the heirs of the original Indian proprietors. This deed is recorded at Salem. It is a long and curious document, abounding in surplusage and legal redundancies, on account of which, possibly because few people could unravel their meaning, such documents were thought to be all the more binding. This deed conveyed all the interest wdiich David Kunkshamooshaw and Abigail, his wife, Cicely, better known as Su George, and James Qiionopohit — the sole surviving heirs of Nanapashemet — held in the territory of Lynn and Nahant. The signatures of David and Abigail seem to be rude representations of a bow and arrow. The third signature is that of Cicely. James signed his name in full, after the manner of white men. The last is the sign manual of ISIary Fonham, his wife. The settlers attached much importance to the Indian deeds, but vSir Edmund .Vndros, th2 English governor, professed the greatest contempt for them, likening them to scratches of a bear's claw, and by an arLitraryexerci.se of his power, endeav- ored to set aside the deed of Nahant in favor of his secretary, Edward Randolph, wdio had coveted the peninsula. The spirit with which his purpose was resisted by the settlers taught him the useful lesson that in this country the government is no stronger than the popular will, and that the ruler wdio undertakes to breast public opinion, right or wrong, has a wearisome, and possibly a dangerous, course to follow. Randolph persisted in his claim, and finally, finding himself vigorously opposed by Oliver Purchis, lost his temper, and attempted to cut off the ears of his opponent. This was more than the settlers could endure, and headed by Parson Shepherd, they hunted Randolph to Boston, and made it desirable for that individual to look elsewhere for a summer residence. From that day to this Nahant has continued to be the queen of seaside resorts, but the later invasions from Boston have been of a more peaceful and desirable char- acter. So the century passed away, and gradually the turmoils of its later years subsided, and the lives of the people moved on in straighter lines. In 171 3 Lynnfield was set off as a separate towm, and two years later a meeting-house was built. In all the early New England settlements the meeting-house was the center of influence and power. The building of a meeting-house and the settle- ment of a minister was insisted upon as a necessary preliminary to the recogni- tion of a new municipality. If law and public policy could have made a people as a whole religious and God-fearing, our ancestors M'ould have been entitled to canonization. Possiblv some of them are, for what they did accomplish. ^SAUGUSr IS CALLED LINJ 27 Farming continued to Le the cliief occupation of the settlers. There were a few tanneries, and in 1760 the manufacture of shoes had begun to receive considerable attention. Some skilled workmen in the line of ladies' shoes had come to the town from England, and they had imparted their skill to the home workmen, so that in 1764 The Boston Gazette records the fact that "the women's shoes made at Lynn do now exceed those usually imported, both in strength and beauty, but not in price" — a standard always since lived up to — and in 176S it is stated that So, 000 pairs of shoes were made in Lynn the previous year. The foundation of our subsequent prosperity was tlien laid. Good work at a fair price was the motto, and in all the achievements of the later years this has been the governing principle. The occurrences which led up to the War of the Revolution were full of interest and excitement for the citizens of Lynn. No less than the I3ostonians did they resent the oppressions and exactions of the English Government. Some of her citizens participated in the Boston tea-party, and all joined with ithfulness in the crusade which was declared against all taxetl tea. At a meeting on the i6th of December, 1773, it was, among other things, resolved, "That we highly disapprove of the landing and selling of such teas in America, and will not surter any teas, subjected to a parliamentary dut)', to be landed or sold in this town ; and that we stand ready to assist our brethren in Bos- tcni or elsewhere, whenever our aid shall be required, in repelling all attempts to land or sell any teas pois- oned with a iDarliamentary SKETCH ON WALNUT STREET. dutv " There is little occasion to question the meaning of this declaration, and the people were as good as their word. It became known that Mr. James Bowler, on Water Hill, had a cjuantity of tea in store. A committee of ladies immedi- ately waited upon him, demanded the tea, and destroyed it. The independent spirit of the mothers has been transmitted to their descendants, and the actors in this first American boycott planted seeds which still flourish in our soil. Holmes asserts that "The waters of the rebel bay Have kept their tea-leaf savor; Our old North Enders in their spray Still taste a Hyson flavor." And the same spirit wliich led our ancestors to unite to resist an arbitrary and unjust tax still bands our people together to combat any real or fancied attempt at oppression. The following year the port of Boston was closed, by order of the English Government. Then tlie storm clouds rapidly gathered. The people of Lvnn made common cause with those of the surrounding towns. Couriers constantly 28 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. passed back and forth between Concord, Salem and Boston, and a company of Lynn minute men assisted at the reception given the English regulars at Lexing- ton — four of whom were killed in the fight, and several more were wounded. Among the latter was Timothy Munroe, who had one ball through his leg, and thirty-two bullet-holes through his clothes and hat. Active measures were taken for carrying on the war, which all now perceived was inevitable. A Commit- tee of Safety, consisting of Rev. John Treadwell, pastor of the First Church, and Rev. Joseph Roby, of the Lynnfield parish, and Deacon Daniel Mansfield, was appointed. Guards were stationed on Sagamore Hill, Shepard street, and the crossing at the Saugus River, and no one was suffered to pass out of town without permission. Arms were carried to meeting on the Sabbath, and it is recorded that the minister appeared with his powder-horn under one arm and his sermon under the other, and stood his musket at one side of the pulpit when he rose to begin the service. A company of minute men was formed, which took part in the battle of Bunker Hill. In the long and terrible war which fol- lowed, Lynn fui-nished her quota of men and means, and bore with patriotic fortitude the privations, hardships and disappointments of that trying time. One hundred and sixty-eight of her citizens were in the Continental Army, of whom fifty-two men were lost, besides the four men killed at Lexington. The years succeeding the war were devoted to retrieving the losses and repairing the waste of that long struggle. With the exception of the ripple caused by Shay's Rebellion in 17S7, there were no clouds in the political hori- zon until iSoS, when the Embai-go brought all sorts of commercial activity to a standstill, and reduced all manufacturing interests to a low ebb. A majority of the people were Democrats, and upheld the General Government in its policy, though not without a vigorous protest from their Federalist neighbors. Again, in 181 2, the naval war with England seriously checked all business for a time. As was their wont, the citizens of Lynn were alive to the contest. A privateer was fitted out, which sent home three prizes, and generally the feelings of the people were keyed up to the fighting pitch. The frequent successes of the Yankee tars and their impromptu fleet had caused the people to regard them as well-nigh invincible. One of the songs of the day ran : "I often have been told That the British seamen bold Could beat the tars of France so neat and handy O. But they never found their match Till the Yankees did them catch, For the Yankee tars for fighting are the dandy O. It was, therefore, with great expectation of a glorious victory that the people lined the heights of Nahant on the first day of June, 1813, to witness the battle between the British ship Shannon and the American brig Chesapeake. They were doomed to a bitter disappointment, for after a short and spirited contest Capt. Lawrence of the Chesapeake fell, her colors were lowered, and the people sadly watched the Shannon depart with her prize for Halifax. At last the treaty of peace brought an end to hostilities, and the people once again turned their attention to their ordinary peaceful pursuits. Farming and shoemaking continued the chief occupations of the people. Attempts were ^SAUGUST IS CALLED LIN. 29 made, from time to time, to inaugurate otlier industries, but eitlier the place or the people were not suited to them. Several tanneries were in operation from 1830 to 1830, but by 1S33 these were all discontinued, it being possible to pur- chase leather in Philadelphia cheaper than it could be manufactured here. In 1819 the sea-serpent made a reconnaisance of our shores, much to the consterna- tion of the people, and in 1S34 a visit from General Lafayette was the occasion of a great demonstration. Five years later the community was convulsed by the anti-masonry excitement, and for several years the opponents of that ancient order held complete control of municipal affairs. Scarcely had the public inter- est in this controversy liegun to die away when abolition became a burnin;^ question. In the early days many slaves had been owned in Lvnn, but at tlie opening of the Revolution all that were tlien held here were given their freedom. From that time onward there had been a marked and oftentimes outspoken opposition to the institution of slavery among the people, and in 1S32 the Lynn Anti-Slavery vSociety was formed. This organization soon became noted for its advanced opinions, and its boldness in expressing them. Frequent meetings and discussions were held, and the silverv voice of Phillips and the burning eloquence of Garrison were often heard here in behalf of the southern slave. Old Town Hall was frequently , the scene of exciting occurrences, but probably no more spirited -r gathering ever met ^\■ithin its Avails than was called together on the 5th of October, 1S50, the occasion being the passage bv Congress of the Fugitive vSlave Law. The measure was de- nounced in the most imsparing manner, and those who had taken, prominent part in the enactment , , 11 1 1 ULU IU..I4 n-iLL. ot the law were called In* name and roundlv castigated. The resolutions adopted by the meeting were charac- teristic of our people, and breathed the uncompi-omising hatred of oppression and love of liberty which, seventy-five years before, had led their fathers into reliellion. Following is one of the resolutions adopted at the meeting, which shows the temper of the people : Resolved, That, since Gud hath commanded us to " bewray not him that wandereth," and since, our fathers being \\itnesses, every man's right to liberty is self-evident, we see no way of avoiding the conclusion of Senator Seward, that " it is in violation of the divine law to surrender the fugitive slave who takes refuge at our firesides;" and in view of this, as well as the notorious fact that the slave power has constantly trampled under foot the Constitution of the United States to secure its own extension or safety, and especially of the open, undisguised and acknowledged contempt of that instrument with which the slave states kidnap our colored citizens travelling south and imprison our colored seamen, we, in obedience to Gods law, and in self-defense, declare that. Constitution or no CN Capt. iams, 30 and shoe shop, 22 - tH Jos. Mudge, 19 Jerusha Wil ^ 31 Stephen Smith's house and ^ Gamaliel W. Oliver's shoe shop and house 2 in this shop William Lloyd Garrison worked o shoemaking for some time — 33 J. B. Ingalls, ^ g 34 Rev. Enoch Mudge, 25 Methodist meeting- w house, " The Bowery," now Lee Hall. These ^ cuts were made from reliable data, and are said ^ by those who survive that time to he a correct ' p representation of things as they were then. The g only building of that time now standing is close ^ by the railroad. It is not shown in the cut, being on the opposite side of the street. It was then used as a morocco factory, and close bv it was a creek through which the tides flowed in and out of what is now Harrison Court. A ^ stone culvert spanned this stream just below where now the railroad crossing is. Up to this time the town had probably not I changed very much in the matter of its streets for a century or more. In the center of the town it had JMarket street, Liberty street, Spruce street — now a part of Washington — Sea street, Front street — now that part of Broad from Exchange •ket — I'nion street. Pine street — now Exchange — Spring street, Broad Further east were Broad, Nahant, Lewis, Chestnut, Fayette, Olive, 32 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. Mason, Orange, Essex, Pearl and High streets. In the western part of the town were Pleasant, Shepard, Summer, Commercial, Elm, North and South Common, Franklin and Franklin avenue. Turnpike — now Western avenue — Boston, North Shepard, Mall, Center and Federal streets. Nahant street led to Nahant over the beach; there being no road, the tides were watched to know when the long beach could be used for travel. Lewis street led to Swampscott and into Humphrey street, and a cart road extended on through the farms to Marblehead. Essex street led from Woodend to Salem, with no cross streets. All other parts of Lynn were in wood or pasture lands, or farms, and there was no house south of Nahant and Bi'oad streets, nor east of Nahant, Broad and Lewis streets. The lands between Lewis, Fayette and Essex streets, also between Essex, Orange, Chestnut and the Turnpike, also south of Summer and Commeixial streets, were used as farms or pastures. Around the southwest OLD ANCHOR TAVERN. corner of Union and Exchange streets ran a stone wall, and on the opposite corner stood the Keene homestead. Through a culvert under what is now Central square flowed a stream of pure, cool water, from springs under the present Central Station. It formed a muddy, grassv brook which ran down Union street to where the Ingalls building now is, then turned and flowed through the gardens of Jonathan Connor and William D. Thompson, across Broad street to the sea. In the brook near Earl's new building was sunk a tub, where the neighbors watered their cows. Nearly all the principal families owned a cow, and if they had no pasture, they hired or owned what was called a " cow lease," or right to pasture a cow in Rocks Pasture or on Nahant. Where Goldthwait's stable now is was a hill, on the summit of which was a SAUGUST IS CALLED LIN.'^ two-Story house, the cellar of which must have been much above the roof of the present stable. Half-way down the hill was an old-foshioned well, with curb, sweep and an old oaken bucket. The stone wall extended up the south side of Union street for a short distance to the house of Farmer Silsbee, where Welch & Cummings' store now is. The one-story house of George Todd stood oppo- site Pearl street. From this point the stone wall extended most of the way to Woodend. A stone wall marked the site of the Sagamore House, and from Pearl street a wall extended nearly to the burying-ground. Where the East Baptist Church is, and beyond, was called Smith's field, and where Ireson street is was called Qiiaker Pasture — a decided contrast to the modern, busy, thron^*-- ing Union street. There were no Beach, Baltimore, Atlantic, Ocean, or other cross streets in that section, nor any Silsbee, Green, Ireson, Rockaway, Washington, Willow, Munroe, Oxford, Andrew or Johnson streets, and only five or six cross streets from the Common. There were formerly salt works near the foot of S. N. Breed's wharf, with a windmill to pump the water into tanks for evaporation ; and where the engine-house is was a small beach called " Water Side." Where Central avenue and Willow street are was a cow p;!s- ture, and Almont street was given over to brick-yards. At the foot of Nahant street was a fence, with a gate, to keep the cows from returning home too early. The last decade of this period of our history is full of events of great importance as bearing on the future of the town. First, in 1S38, came the Eastern Railroad, pushing its way north and east — first to Salem, and then onward toward Portland. The projectors of the railroad were men of courage and foresight. The science of railroad building and management, as it is ncnv understood, was an unknown quantity, and the tremendous j^ossibilities of the steam locomotive undreamed of. They came to Lynn, and calling the promi- nent business men together, asked their opinion as to the average number of passengers they might expect between Lynn and Boston. After mature delib- eration and close calculation, the conclusion was reached that the average might reach thirty-eight per day, though one gentleman emphatically dissented, saving that "• never in the world will they have so many!" The first station was a one-story wooden structure, alxnit forty feet long, with a bell on the roof, which was rung on the arri\al of each train. The first cars were about fifteen feet long, and seated twenty-two persons. The first locomotives were very crude, and had scarcely power enough to draw the few coaches in the train. Frequently in cold weather, or when facing a high the marshes, the trains would wind acros be compelled to stop to get a head of FIRST RAILROAD STATION IN LYNN. gte^^j-j-, sufficient to procccd. That was railroading under difficulties. But with the railroad came new life and energy into the place, which made itself manifest in the impetus given to business and the various new enterprises which sprung into life. The financial panic of the previous year, though falling heavily upon many of our manufacturers, 34 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. had served to clear the business atmosphei'e, and brought many young men to the front. The era of invention, which has astonished the world by its productions, was then just beginning, and the shoemaking industry early began to receive its share of attention. A few minor inventions were brought out prior to 1850, but they were mostly crude and of little use ; but they began to open the way for the great revolution in the methods of shoe nianufacture which began ten yeais later. They consisted chiefly in improvements in lasts, and in methods of cutting the soles. The styles of boots most commonly made had been foxed gaiters, slippers and buskins, but in 1S4S the congress boot was invented, which at once came into great favor. The city, in the years 1840 to 1850, took rapid strides both in population and business, and it began to be felt that Lynn had outgrown her town organization. The subject of obtaining a city charter was agitated for several years. Finally, on the loth of April, 1850, the Legislature granted a charter, and on the 19th it was accepted by the town. With this action may be said to end the second period of our history. In our brief review we have seen a sparsely-settled colony, planted in a wilderness, grow to a busy and prosperous town, with an industrv of sufficient magnitude to give employment to thousands of busy workers, and prosperous in a marked desrree. RED ROCK, LYNN BEACH. ^nn maa^ CI" HE legendary history of Lynn forms one of its most fascinating chapters. * The limits of this work prevent more than the briefest reference to some of the more important of these events, although in number and interest they would suflice for a separate volume ; and these naturally find a place where the sketches of the to\vn end and those of the city begin. The pathetic tale of the Bridal of Pennacook reaches fartliest back into the shadowy vista of the past — " A story of the marriage of the chief Of Saugus to the dusky Weetainoo, Daughter of Passaconaway, who dwelt In the old time upon the Merrimack/' The story, in brief, is that Winnepurkit, as Morton has it, or, more properly, Winnepoyekin, son of Nanapashemet, sagamore of .Saugus, when he came to man's estate, made choice, for his wife, of the daughter of Passaconaway, the great chieftain of the tribes inhabiting the Merrimack valley. Passaconaway was not only a mighty chieftain, but, if we may believe the early English chronicles of his doings, he was the most accomplished wizard the New World ever knew. These learned and reverend writers gravely assert that, so skilled was he in the arts of necromancy, he could cause a green leaf to grow in winter, trees to dance, water to burn, and numberless things of a like marvellous nature, through his mystical invocations. The union of the young people was blessed by the great chieftain, and in due time Weetamoo was seated in her lord's wigwam on Sagamore Hill, with the broad bay spread out before her door, now shining like a burnished mirror in the sun, and then rolling its angry waves upon the beach in thunderous monotone, or dashing them upon the rocks of Little Nahant. Before long, however, a homesick longing for a 3G LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. sight of lier father filled her heart, and like a kind husband, Winnepurkit sent her home, escorted by some of his most mighty men. The daughter was re- ceived with open arms, and the escort were cordially entertained and graciously dismissed. After a short stay she signified a desire to return to her noble husband, upon which her father sent messengers to Winnejjurkit to notify him of the desire of his wife, and to request the Saugus sachem to dispatch a suitable guard to escort his wife back through the wilderness to her home. But here an unexpected difficulty arose, for Winnepurkit curtly told the messengers to carry word to his father-in-law, " That when his wife departed from him he caused his own men to wait upon her to her father's territories, as did become him ; but now that she had an intent to return, it did become her father to send her back with a convoy of his own people." Both were men of high spirit, and neither would yield, and so the poor princess was forced to remain with her father, at least for a time. Tradition has it, however, that her woman's wit found a way through or around the difficulty, and that she, after a while, made her way back to her husband's home. Whittier, however, gives a different and tragic ending to the tale. In his poem, the heart-broken Bride of Pennacook determines to return alone. She steals away from her attendant maidens, launches her frail canoe upon the swollen and threatening Merrimac, and is instantlv swept " Down the vexed center of that rushing tide, The thick, huge ice blocks threatening either side, The foam-white rocks of Amoskeag in view, With arrowy swiftness — Down the white rapids Hke a sere leaf whirled. On the sharp rocks and piled-up ices hurled. Empty and broken, circled the canoe In the vexed pool below, but where was Weetamoo?" THE PIRATES' GLEN. About the year 1656, in the twilight of a pleasant evening, a strange vessel was seen to approach the shore oft' the mouth of the Saugus River, where she furled her sails and dropped anchor. When the shades of night had fallen, a boat was lowered, and four men rowed silently up the rK'er to where it emerges from the hills. There they landed and turned into the woods. The strange visitors doubtless thought themselves unobserved, but those were perilous times, and sharp eyes had followed them. JSIany were the conjectures occasioned by these unusual movements. The next morning the settlers rose early to learn more of these unannounced visitors, but the stranger-vessel had disappeared, and no trace either of her or her singular crew could be found. The occurrence was a nine days' wonder among the settlers, but the interest had nearly died out when one day a workman at the Iron Works found a paper lying in a conspicu- ous place, running to the effect that if a certain quantity of shackles, handcuffs, and other articles named, were made and deposited with secrecy in a certain LYNX LEGENDS. 37 place in the woods, an amount of silver equal to their value would be found in their stead. The articles were made and deposited as directed, and on the fol- lowing morning they had been taken away, and the money left as agreed upon. Some months later the four men returned, and selected one of the most secluded spots in the woods of Saugus for their abode ; and interest is added to the tale by the statement that the pirate chief brought with him a beautiful woman. The place of their retreat was a narrow valley shut in on two sides by craggy, precipitous rocks, and screened on the other by a thick growth of evero-reens. The spot was admirably chosen for concealment and observation as well, for from the cliff on the eastern side of this glen a noble expanse of country and sea, stretching far toward the south, is spread before the eye. Here the pirates built themselves a small hut, and here it is said that the chief's beautiful mistress sick- ened and died. After a time the retreat of tlie pirates became noised aliroad. Three of them were captured and taken to England, where they suffered the penalty of their crimes upon the gibbet. The fourth, Th(Mi)as Veale, escaped, and for many years thereafter made his home in a cave in the woods, which the band had previously utilized as a storehouse for their treasures. Here he prac- ticed the trade of a shoemaker, occasionallv visitinir the Ailla"e to obtain food. ASCENT TO DUNGEON ROCK. In i6^S an earthquake shook up the settlers in a most alarming manner. The entire face of Dungeon Rock was split off, and the cavern forever closed up. The legend has it that the pirate was entombed therein, with all his ti'eas- ures, and possibly one of the village girls who had mysteriously disappeared some months previous. A realistic turn was given to the legend by the declara- tion of a certain Joel Dunn, that on the night of the earthquake, during the tre- mendous storm which raged, he got lost in the woods at the north of the town, and in his wanderings fovmd himself, at the dead of night, at the door of the cav- ern. He entered, and found the pirate working by the light of a blazing pine knot. Newhall gives a lifelike picture of their interview, which waxed as stormy 38 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. as the weather outside, and the pirate had just grasped his visitor by the throat, when the earthquake shock came. Just how it came about is not explained, but somehow Joel was not included in the general destruction which followed, but was found next morning in a sad state by men from the settlement who, alarmed by his non-appearance the night before, had set out to search for him. When he had recovered he told his wonderful story, which naturally occasioned much wonderment ; but while the people seemed willing to believe the pirate Veale was entombed beneath Dungeon Rock, even the grave Mr. Whiting felt constrained to say that while he had no doubt that Joel Dunn passed the night on which the earthquake occurred, in the woods, it was most likely that a large jug which Joel had taken into the woods had been the inspiration of his wonderful visions. The treasures thus believed to be buried in the heart of Dungeon Rock have never been exhumed, but about forty years since, Hii'am Marble, under the direction of spirit mediums, began the search for it. For more than a quarter of a century father and son toiled early and late to unlock the secret caverns of the cliff, and when they were ready to abandon the work, they were again spuri'ed on by some new delusive revelation of the spirits. And even when death had released the elder enthusiast from his delusion, the son carried on the work as the most sacred of trusts until he, too, died in the same fatal delusion. ^ ENTRANCE TO DUNGEON ROCK CAVE. A visit to Dungeon Rock is full of interest, not only on account of the traditions which surround the locality, but for the natural beauties which are revealed on every side. Two miles out from the city, in the heart of the Lynn forest, few wilder or more picturesque spots can be found in New England, and one can hardly realize that he is scarcely out of sight and sound of the homes I.VXN LEGENDS. 39 and mart of nearly fifty tliousand people. The ledge on one side is a sheer precipice ; the other side, which the road ascends, is less abrupt, and is covered with a grove of oak trees, growing among enormous boulders, with which, in fact, the whole region abounds. The cave which once existed in the ledoe was closed by the great earthquake — to doubt the legend, with the evidences all around you, would be folly — and some avaricious vandal has blown out the remains of the entrance in the vain hope of finding out the well-kept secret of : the clift". The entrance to the excava- tion made by the Marbles, fother and son, is barred by a grating, not specially sug- gestive of aught piratical, or in any way uncanny, the open sesame to which is a quarter in hand, paid to the pleasant appearing lady, sister of the younger Marble, who is now the presiding genius of the locality. The key turns with a creak in the rusty lock, and the door opens outward with a groan. The de- scent into the tunnel is first b}' a series of rickety steps, then by such foothold as one is fortunate enough to gain on the slippery rock. The entire gallery is about one hundred and fifty feet in length, descending in its course some forty feet. On account, however, of the zig-zag direction which the often-amend- ed revelations of the spirits marked out, the rock is not actually penetrated more than one hundred feet. The formation is porphyry, as hard as adamant, and without seam or break to indicate that a cavern ever existed there or thereabouts ; 'o^'^/i^/'^civ'^' and one is compelled to the opinion rected the operations must have IDrenticeshlp in some of the \\ dd- west. But scarcely has our sert it when it is again cha" of the relics of the pirates tainer, tucked in cran- sheath looks as though ^ and the knife has a sutfi- thirsty appearance to suit What is left of the scissors look, but the old anvil brings us back practical things. For no matter how that the spirits who di- served their earthly ap- cat enterprises of the wild incredulity begun to as- lenged by the production found, so says our enter- nies of the rock. The it had done hard sei-vice, ciently piratical, blood- the most fastidious. has a more modern to the days of hard, legend and story may people the rocks and grottoes of the neighborhood with strange personages and shapes, or fill the hollows of the clift with shining gold and precious gems and jew- 40 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. els ; regardless wholly of the phantom guides who promise to show the path to the hidden treasures ; the old anvil brings us to a realization of the fact that the path can be gained by mortals, and the treasures secured, only by hard blows with ma- terial implements. Judging from the nature of the rock, both father and son must have spent fully as much time at the anvil as in the tunnel. After all, the history of the experiences of hidden treasure of Dungeon .. Always convinced their story of most live coveted blessing will bring it within thwarted again and again, that success will come — how and gone to their rest with realized ! But there is no thanking our guide for her thoroughly satisfied with our ever in love with Lynn and her surroundings. the Marbles in search of the Rock reads much like the almost within reach of the that one more strong effort grasp ; disappointed and yet still buoyed with hope many have lived their day their dearest expectation vm- time for moralizing. So, attention, we return to Lynn excursion, and more than THE TREASURE OF PINES POINT. There has ever been a peculiar interest attaching to tales of wonder or adventure wherein pirates and their exploits form an important element. The New World, with its many unexplored bays and safe harbors, which had so hospitabl}' received the early settlers, was supposed by them to be also in high favor, as a safe rendezvous, with the black-haired, blood-thirsty gentry who roamed the seas, collecting tribute of all nations. Upon our headlands they set their watch, and held high revelry after their successful ventures. Their meth- ods of making money wei^e not so gentlemanly or refined as those of some of our modern financiers, but were quite as honest, and the banks of dejoosit which they selected have never failed, nor their cashiers taken vacations in the peniten- tiary or Canada. Had Capt. Kyd endowed all the localities with which tradi- tion has credited him, his wealth must have been marvellously great, and his methods a step in advance of any system of stock watering or manipulation since devised. Longfellow has invested the old stone tower of Newport with a halo of romance. Thither, says his Skeleton in Armor, "Three weeks we westward bore, And when the storm was o'er, Cloud-Uke we saw the shore Stretching to leeward; There, for my lady's bower. Built I the lofty tower Which, to this very hour. Stands looking seaward." The fact that this tower was built by the first settlers and used as a windmill detracts nothing from the interest of the legend, and it is possible that many, if not most, other legends which tell of mysterious visitations of jDirates and LYNN LECiEXDS. 41 secreting of treasure which they never came to reclaim ha\e as slender a foun dation as the instance named. Nevertheless, in the time when the Old Anchu Tavern, or the " Blew Ankor," as its early title was, constituted the half-wa^ house between Boston and Salem, and around whose crack- ling fire the travellers and idlers used to meet to exchange 1 . yarns, there was a belief held by many tliat the pirate crew, \ whose craft so mysteriously appeared off the mouth of the Saugus River, had buried a chest of gold beneath a flat stone at the roots of a tree at Pines Point, as it was then known. On many a dark night might the solitary treasure-seeker have been seen groping among the trees with his lantern and spade, vainly searching for the hidden doub- loons, but the barren point would not give up its secret. But one night a party was made up at the Anchor Tav- ern to make a final ^, ^^ search for the covet- s^^^WM^I ed treasure. New- f'.'^'l'^^^ hall, in his Jewels of the Third Planta- tion, gives the only account of this enter- prise we have seen. The night agreed upon was fair, and a bright moon shed her favoring beams upon them. David Kunkslianiooshaw, a mighty ^vizard, and skilled with the divining rod, was one of the party. They made the journey to the point in the early evening. The action of the hazel rods in the hands of David was satisfactory in the extreme. Then he pro- ceeded, with his incantations, to charm away the evil spirits, who, he solemnly averred, would combine to prevent them from accomplishing their object, and a circle was drawn around the spot where the hazel rods had indicated the treasure was concealed, over which the spirits could not go to do them injury. He then charged them not to utter a word, even in whispers, for if they did, their whole labor would come to naught, though by keeping within the ring they might escape bodily harm. The work then began, and in due time they came upon the flat stone which they knew covered the treasure-chest. Just as they began working around it, there came a tremendous gust of wind sweeping down over the beach with such fury that they were nearly blown from their feet and outside the circle. But they recovered from their momentary fright, and resumed operations. A stout lever was adjusted, and they were just 42 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. giving a vigorous heave at the stone, when an astounding neigh, as of a horse on the very bound of the circle, sounded in their ears. The lever dropped from their grasp, but as they peered around nothing could be seen, and at the woi"d from David, who constantly perambulated the circle, making wild gesticula- tions, they again plied the lever, and the ponderous stone began to move from its bed. Soon the edge was high enough so that one of them, holding down his lantern and peering eagerly into the darkness beneath, declared he saw the corner of the long-sought-for iron chest. This stimulated them to renewed effort, and in a moment more their dreams would have been fulfilled, but a most astounding circumstance occurred, which is told in the graphic language of Judge Newhall : ''At that critical moment there came another awful gust of wind, but this time from over the water, saturating their clothing with salt spray, almost blind- ing them, and setting everything whirling again. Then was heard the heavy tread of a rapidly advancing horse. On, on, he dashed, in headlong fury, out into the moonlight — a gigantic courser, with flaring tail erect and long mane waving and curling in the breeze ; snorting and prancing in the most threaten- ing manner. Astride his back, without saddle or bridle, hatless, and with hair streaming in lank locks about his shoulders, sat a man of giant form and grace- less mein, a hideous grin playing about his toothless mouth. On, on he rushed with unabated fury, directly toward the petrified group. But the instant he reached the charmed circle his progress was arrested. Not .a hoof could pass the magic bound ; the desperate rearings, plungings and snortings of the horse, nor the fiery glaring and spurring of the rider, could avail. But in that alarm- ing attitude of affairs the affrighted diggers could not continue their work, and their tools fell from their paralyzed hands. Things remained thus for some minutes ; and then began a frantic race around the circle, the distance narrowing at every turn. Just on the verge the furious beast wheeled and reared and plunged, as if determined to dash across in spite of fate itself. David now for the first time showed signs of terror. With fiery eyes and hissing breath the fiery steed poised himself on his hind feet, while his rider in stentorian voice vociferated : ' By my blood, what do ye here.' ye are well set to work filching my gold, hard earned upon the sea by dagger and by fire. But the devil will yet save his own, I wot. Aroynt ye, or bear a pirate's malediction.' The ponderous hoofs were quivering almost directly over the head of David, who had stepped forth to see there was no break in the ring, when, thrown suddenly oft' his guard, with trembling lips he gave utterance to a propitiatory ejaculation in these imploring words of his euphonious native tongue : — ahquonlamannean nummatcheseongask ; poliquohwussinnean. In an instant, down came the hoofs, almost upon his head ; and then rang the exulting laugh of the rider out over the sea ; and the wild neigh of the horse was louder still. The spell was broken and there was no longer a charm-protected bound. They pranced within the ring without restraint ; the stone fell back over the chest ; the aftrighted dig- gers scattered for dear life. The triumphant horse and his rider, having acom- plished their purpose, sped off' among the trees, the one whinnying and the other laughing till the old woods resounded with the weird clamor." LVXX LEGENDS. 43 This was enough. Treasure-seeking at the point became unpopular, and there is no record of any subsequent attempt to locate or unearth the hidden treasure. There has been a great change in the appearance of the point and the surrounding marshes since that memorable night, but it may be a pleasant di- version some fine summer day to undertake to locate the spot where the chest of gold as really lies buried now as it ever did. t^AD LEDGE, SWAMPSl^ naMe^ ^aswn^ DURING the first tvveiity-five years, the colonists of New England managed ^^ their affairs both civil and religious entirely in their own way, and doubt- I I less much to their own satisfoction. Nearly, if not quite, all of those who "^ came hither from England prior to the death of Charles Stuart did so to Y gain greater freedom in their religious opinions and practices. They came, many of them, from the best-educated, property-owning classes, who, being hindered from worshiping God according to the dictates of their con- sciences, at home, resolutely, and of their own accord, sought asylum in the New World. Under the royal patent, those named therein came into absolute control of the territory covered by it, subject only to the claims of the aboriginal proprietors, and the several towns acquired a like title under the grants from the original patentees. Matters of religion, especially the organization of a church and the settle- ment of a minister, became questions of immediate concern, for it was because of their religion, and their regard for their religious teachers, that they had left their former pleasant homes to end their days in the wilderness. Matters of purely civil administration received only secondary attention during the early 3^ears of the colony, being, for the most part, provided for in the administration and organization of the church. What seems to us a strange and unreasonable regulation, because of the changed circumstances of our time, that everyone should be taxed for the support of the church, and that no one should vote who was not a church member, was the natural thing for them to do, because ninety- nine persons out of every hundred were members of the church. The charter of the colony in no respect resembled the Constitution under which we live ; it was, on the contrary, that of a trading company — a close corporation which had the technical right to expel any person whose presence was deemed preju- dicial to the interests of the comjDany in general. Having been persecuted for their religion at home, they naturally sought, in establishing their own religious system, to throw around it every safeguard and influence to maintain Its suprem- (^)UAKER INVASION. 45 acy and secure its permanence. Their troubles at home liad arisen from a con- flict of beliefs ; therefore they would pre\-cnt a recurrence of similar troubles in their new home by shutting the door tight against all who would not unreserv- edly subscribe to their system. Their plan was, in a certain narrow and technical sense, just, and would doubtless have been a good one if it could ha\e been made to work. The ob- stacle to its success lay in their inability to control the thoughts and consciences of all their own people, and the extent of their coast line, which precluded perfect police supervision of all new-comers. The obstacles were not at first apparent, and where there was such a will to carry out their ideas, with a man like Gov. Endicott in authority, seconded by an exceptionally able Court of Assistants, there was certain to be devised ways and means. The events attending upon the preaching of George Fox, and the methods by which the English authorities attempted to check the new religious move- ment, had not been unnoted in the Massachusetts colony ; and with a singular seeming forgetfulness of the trials they themselves had passed through, the English Puritans were quite as fierce in their denunciations of the new sect as the authorities of the Estal^lishment, and lent readv countenance to the persecu- tion which was at once raised against it. And the IMassachusetts authorities were in full sympathy with their English cousins in regarding Qiiakerism as a dangerous heresy to be combatted by all means. T!ie Friends on the other side had endured enough persecution to raise the zeal of the leaders to the point of enthusiasm, and it was not long before some of their number felt called to testify for their faith in the New World. The first Qiiakers of note to arrive in Boston were Marv Fisher and Ann Austin. They came in 1653, though it appears that for two years several fami- lies of that faith hid dwelt unmolested in the Plymouth colonv, and that a few had settled hi Lvnn and Salem. Both were women of mark, having sufiered imprisonment and scourging for their foith in England. They found the Massa- chusetts authorities readv to receive them. They were promptly injprisoned, their books publicly burned, and by the first departing vessel were sent back to England, the jailer keeping their beds and Bibles for his fees. Eight more who subsequently arrived were similarly treated, and at the next session of the court a law was enacted forbidding all masters of vessels from bringing Qiiakers into this jurisdiction, and threatening any Friends who might come, with the House of Correction. This had no effect to deter them from coming, but, on the con- ti"arv, only served to inflame the missionary zeal of the Qiiaker propagandists. The following year a number of Friends, men and women, landed in Boston. Thev received equally prompt attention as their predecessors, and several of them were accorded the additional courtesy of twenty stripes on the bare back with a whip of three cords, knotted at the ends to give point and pungency to the proceedings. During the succeeding years the whipping-post was one of the busiest of our public institutions. Some of those who had been sent away having returned, the following order was issued by the Court : "To the Marshall-General or his deputy: You are to take with you the executioner, and repair to the House of Correction, and there see him cut oft' the right ears of John Copeland, Christopher Holder and John Rouse, Qiiakers, 46 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. in execution of tlie sentence of the Court of Assistants, for the breach of the law entitled Qiiakers. Edward Rawson, Secretary. And the older was carried out to the letter ; but even these harsh measures failed of the desired effect. Not only were the English Quakers stirred to greater zeal, but murmurings against the severity of the punishments began to be heard among the colonists, and it was found that many of them had adopted the Quaker belief, these being specially numerous in the vicinity of Lynn and Salem, so that the government had not only those who came hither to look after, but also an uncomfortable number planted upon the soil, who were every whit as firm in their faith as the magistrates in their determination to root out Qiiakerism. Lynn and Salem early became a center of the Qtiaker influence. Refusing to perform military service or to pay church rates, they suffered many indignities, and had their cattle, corn, hay and domestic furniture distrained for payment. Mention is made in the Friends' records of George Oaks, who appears to have been one of the first Quakers in Lynn, the entry being : " Taken away for the priest, Samuel Whiting, one cow, valued at £3." The good minister seems not to have despised the cow, though his estimate of the Quakers is given. In enumerating the evils with which the people of New England have to contend, he remarks that "it is cause for humiliation that our sins have exjDosed us to live among such wicked sinners," among whom he ranks " atheists and Qiiakers." It has been understood among Friends that the first Friends' meetings in this vicinity were held in a house on what is called the old road to Salem, and near the Lynn mineral spring farm ; composed of those from Salem and Lynn who had adopted the Friends' belief. But while these things had been going on in Lynn, (he authorities in Boston had no end of trouble. The whippings, imprisonments and maimings to which the Quakers were subjected at length roused the genuine martyr spirit in not a few, who felt that they could render no better service to their religion than to come to New England and protest against the persecutions of their sect. Accordingly in 1658 the General Court passed a law banishing all incoming Qiiakers " on pain of death." This severe legislation was not passed unanimously. Very many of the Court had begun to doubt the wisdom of the course that was being pursued, and the measure had only a majority of one in a vote of twenty-five. The details for the enforcement of the statute included summary arrest and imprisonment without bail until the next term of Court. Scarcely was the ink dry on the parchment when William Robinson and Marmaduke Stevens, with Mary Dyer and Nicholas Davis, arrived in Boston. They were arrested, and a decree of banishment issued against them. The two latter obeyed for a time, but Robinson and Stevens came directly to Lynn and Salem, where they commenced active evangelistic work. But the authorities soon learned their whereabouts, and they were re-arrested. The following month Mary Dyer returned boldly to Boston, and was immedi- ately secured. In due season the fated trio were taken before the Court, tried, and sentence of death passed upon them. On the 27th of October they were led away to execution. Robinson and Stevens were hanged first, but as the rope was being adjusted about the neck of Mary Dyer, a reprieve was received,. QUAKER INVASION. 47 and she was sent to her home in Rhode Ishmd. The next summer found her agahi in Boston. She was taken before the Court, and the sentence reafhrmed. Being asked why she had returned, she said: "I came, in obedience to the will of God, to the last General Court, desiring ^ou to repeal your unrighteous laws of banishment on pain of death ; and that same is mv work now, and earnest request ; although I told you that if you refused to repeal them, the Lord would send others of His servants to witness against them." This time there was no reprieve, and she died at the time appointed. The record of the months following reads little like the history of Puritan New England. It would be impossible to describe the bitterness of persecution to which Qiiakers in the northern counties of Massacluisetts and in New Hamp- shire were subjected. To tlie terrors of the jail and the pillory were added unspeakable indignities at the hand of brutal officials. Both men and women were stripped of their clothing and cruelly scourged at the whipping-post, or were tied to a cart's tail and whipped from town to town, their property con- fiscated and their homes taken from them, and in some instances they were condemned to be sold for payment of jail and officers' fees. On one such episode AVhittier has founded his famous poem of Cassandra Southwick, which is in many respects one of the most thrilling products of his gifted pen. And not a few suffered death upon the gallows. A characteristic official document of the time reads thus : '• To the Constables of Boston, Charlestown, Maiden and Lynn : You are required to take into your custody, respectively, Edward Wharton, convicted of being a vagabond from his own dwelling place ; and the Constable of Boston is to whip him severely with thirty strijjes on his naked body ; and 48 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. from constable to constable vou are required to convey him until he come to Salem, the place where he saith he dwelleth ; and in so doing this shall be your warrant. John Endicott. A sudden ending came to the bloody persecution. Prominent Friends in England succeeded in gaining the ear of Charles, who had but just been called back from his twelve years' exile, RejDorts had already reached the royal ear of the independent attitude assumed by the colonists, most of whom had been in ardent sympathy with Cromwell, and had not been backward in expressing their pref- erences ; and the incident of the persecutions was seized upon as a convenient pretext for letting the colonists feel the weight of his hand. Accordingly a letter was addressed to Governor Endicott, under the King's hand, ordering the immediate cessation of the persecution ; and, as if to make the intervention all the more galling, the letter was given into the hands of Samuel Shattuck, a Quaker who had but lately been expelled from Boston, to be conveyed to its destination. The incidents of the reception of this letter have inspired the pens of both Longfellow and Whittier. The verses of the latter are especially valu- able as showing the estimate in which a member of the persecuted sect holds the character and acts of their greatest enemy in the New World : THE KING'S MISSIVE. Under the great hill sloping bare To cove and meadow and common lot, In his council chamber and oaken chair Sat the worshipful Governor Endicott — A grave, strong man who knew no peer In the pilgrim land where he ruled in fear Of God, not man, and for good or ill, Held his trust with an iron will. He had shorn with his sword the cross from out The flag, and cloven the may-pole down; Harried the heathen round about, And whipped the Quakers from town to town. Earnest and honest, a man at need To burn like a torch for his own harsh creed. He kept with the flaming brand of his zeal The gate cf the holy commonweal. ****** The door swung open, and Ravi^son, the Clerk, Entered and whispered under breath : "There waits below for the hangman's work A fellow banished on pain of death — Shattuck of Salem, unhealed of the whip. Brought over in Master Goldsmith's ship. At anchor here in a Christian port, With freight of the Devil and all his sort!" Twice and thrice on his chamber floor Striding fiercely from wall to wall; "The Lord do so to me and more," The Governor cried, "if I hang not all! nu akp:r invasion. 49 Bring hither the Quaker ! '' Cahn, sedate, With the look of a man at ease with fate, Into that presence grim and dread Came Samuel Shattuck, with hat on head. "Off with the knave's hat ! "' An angry hand Smote down the offence; but the wearer said, With a quiet smile: "By the King's command, I bear his message and stand in his stead." In the Governor's hand a missive he laid, With the royal arms on its seal displayed; And the proud man spake, as he gazed thereat, Uncovering: "Give Mr. Shattuck his hat." He turned to the Quaker, bowing low : "The King commandeth your friends' release; Doubt not he shall be obeyed, although To his subject's sorrow and sin's increase. What he here enjoineth John Endicott His loyal servant questioneth not. You are free! God grant the spirit you own May take you from us to parts unknown." .So persecution etuled, and the Qimkeis g-raduallv came into possession of all tlie rights of citizens, and were accorded the privilege of churches and schools of their own. In L}nn the number of Qiiakers rapidly increased. The witchcraft delusion in 1692 diverted attention from them for a time, and after that had become history, they were found to have become somewhat aggressive and disputatious. Finally Rev. Mr. Shepherd hit upon a new method of combatting them, and a fast was appointed for the chiu-ch, to the end " that the spiritual plague might proceed no further," of which Cotton Mather wrote: "The spirit of our Lord Jesus Christ gave a remarkable effect unto this holy method of encountering the charms of Qiiakerism. It proved a better method than any coercion of the civil magistrates." And he adds : " Qiiaker- ism in Lynn received, as I am informed, a death wound from that very day." However this may have been, eight years later we find the Rev. Mr. Shepherd, with an imported champion from England, meeting the leading lights of the Qiiakers in a joint discussion, which narrowly escaped being a riot. In 1733 Richard Estes j^resented the society with a large lot on Silsbee street, on which their first house of worship was erected. In 18 16 that house was removed to make room for the present edifice, and now serves as an ofiice for S. N. Breed & Co., on the corner of Broad and Beach streets. In 1S26 the Qiiaker meeting- house in Boston and the burial grounds adjoining having been long disused, and few or none of the society remaining in the city, it w^as thought best to remove the bones ; and the remains of one hundred aiul nine persons, among whom were many martyrs to the faith, were taken up and removed to the Friends cemetery in this city. The neighborhood of Nahant street was for many years headc^uarters for the Society of Friends, and to this day their descendants own and occupy some of the best places in that beautiful section. This, in brief, is the story of the Quaker Invasion, and it forms one of the most remarkable chapters in the history of our city and of the Commonwealth. HtsK mva\ THE clouds of superstition still' hung heavily over humanity w^hen the first homes were made in Massachusetts. The settlers had that faith in God ® which could support them through the dangers and trials attendant upon I the establishment of a home in the wilderness. They had an equally vivid belief in the existence not only of Satan, but of an innumerable host of imps who waited upon him to do his bidding. The first voyagers who ap- proached our shore reported that they " saw Indians and devils sitting upon the rocks;" the settlers, sitting in their homes in the evening with the doors and windows tightly barred, while the forest choirs raised their nocturnal anthems, could distinguish the voices of devils mingling with the bark of the fox, the howl of the wolf, and the scream of the catamount. And even Obadiah Turner, one of the brightest and steadiest lights of the community, credited Satan with personal attentions rendered. He tells his own story best : " It was somewhat within ye night when we came in sight of home. In coming over ye hillock near ye doore of our habitation, I descried a daintie white rabbit, as yt seemed, wch I deemed would make a savory dish for break- fast on ye morrow. Giving chase, I was soon almost vpon him, when, lo, he whisked up a bushy tail over his hinder parts, and then threw it towards me with a mighty rush ; and yt shed upon me a liquor of such stinke yt nothing but ye opening of ye bottomless pit can equal. My eyes were blinded, and my breath seemed stopped forever. When I recovered, ye smell remained vpon me, insomuch yt they would fain drive me from ye house, saying yt they could not abide within while I remained. And I still carry yt about with me in a yet terrible degree. I am persuaded yt is another device of Satan ; yt four-footed beast being an impe let to do ye Devil his baptism by sprinkling." Among a people thus ready to give the devil his due and more, it is little wonder that belief in witchcraft, which had held full sway in England and on the continent for two centuries, should be regarded almost as one of the tenets of their religion. Against an inherited superstition, reason and judgment are of little avail. TIIK WITCHCRAFT TRAGEDY. 51 The popular idea of a witeh was grotesque ; the theory bcini,^ that in the constant endeavor of Satan to win back to himself those souls who had been redeemed by the death of Christ and baptized, many, probably most, would be faithful to their vows and the church, in which case he had no power over them ; but that occasionally an individual would be found, who, yielding to his wiles, entered into a written compact whereby, in exchange for their souls, they re- ceived certain specified powers to work evil, such as to raise storms, blast crops, render men and beasts barren, inflict racking pains upon an enemy or cause him to waste away in sickness ; and an evil spirit was appointed as a special attendant, which most often took the form of a cat, but could transform itself at will into the likeness of any other animal. It was believed that Satan made his conquests in the form of a beautiful man or maiden, with whom vows of love were plighted, and that at certain stated times were held meetings of witches and their satanic lovers, called witches' sabbaths, to which they rode through the air seated comfortably astride of a broomstick, making their exit by the chimney and returning in the same manner ; and having sold themselves to Satan, as good subjects they must continually stri\e to induce others to similarly dispose of themselves. But with all the power thus conferred upon the deluded mortal, they could not exercise it to better their own condition. There were various methods of testing alleged witches, to ascertain if they were guilty of forbidden practices. One was, to confront them with their vic- tims, and if the paroxysms or phenomena of the infliction were repeated, it was regarded as positive proof of guilt. Another method was, to search the bodv of the accused for the "• devil's mark." When the compact with Satan was sealed, he was supposed to touch some part of the body, which at once lost the sense of touch. The delicate and humane method of finding this mark was to remove the witch's clothing, and examine every portion of the body, using sharp needles to locate the insensible part. Another method, and one which was deemed infallible, was to cast the accused into deep water. If she floated, it was infallible evidence of satanic assistance. If she sunk, she was as con- clusively proved innocent ; but the vindication usually came too late to be of much comfort to the accused. All these dark superstitions the settlers in these New England towns brought with them from England. For some years they had more tangible things to occupy their attention, but when the occasion served, the pent-up flames burst forth with redoubled fury. In those early days the New England towns were more closely bound to- gether in a common interest than now, and though the earliest outbreaks of the witchcraft mania took place in Boston and Salem, the people of Lynn were as profoundly stirred by them as the dwellers in the localities named. The first person to be denounced as a witch and arrested, condemned and executed was Margaret Jones of Charlestown, this occurring in 164S. Seven years later Mrs. Ann Hibbins, of Boston, was charged with witchcraft and condemned. Her case attracted widespread attention, and there wei-e many dissenters from the severity of her sentence. The charge against her consisted chiefly in the alle- gation that she possessed a crabbed temper, and the original accusation was doubtless caused by personal spite. She was executed on Boston Common. From that time until 1693 there were occasional and widely separated accusa- 52 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. tions and trials for witchcraft, not enough to cause great popular excitement, but sufficient to keep alive the fire of superstition, ready to burst into flame when the occasion should serve. The outbreak came in 692, and so staillingly near our doors as to al- most achieve the impor- tance of a local event. Salem Village, now a por- tion of Danvers, is a quiet, un2Dretentious place, little suggestive of witchcraft or an} thing else so uncanny and weird. The quiet street still winds by the same old trees which stood there then, and the houses which were the homes of the principal actors in the bloody drama remain upon the old founda- tions. The parsonage was the scene of the first outbreak. Two children of the Rev. Samuel Pan is were attacked with convulsions, and a black shne called Tituba was accused of having bewitched them, the accusation being made by a number of young girls who had been accustomed to meet at the parsonage at stated times during the winter. Tituba was promptly arrested, and in due course of jus- tice put on trial. Noth- ing could be proved against her that would justify summary pro- ceedings, and the prin- cipal excuse for holding her in jail for nine months were certain boastful claims made by her at her trial EXECUTION OF MRS. ANN HiBBiNS. which have a strong suggestion of modern spiritualism. She was finally sold for payment of jail fees. The excitement caused by this occurrence soon rose to a frenzy. As though encouraged by their success in the case mentioned, the circle of girls soon after made accusation against well-known and hitherto respected residents of the surrounding country, and when confronted with the victims in court, the girls would calmly make the most preposterous statements of things done by the THE WITCHCRAFT TRAGEDY. 53 accused, which were accepted by the learned jurists of the day as competent evidence. Several of the accused persons, in ortler to save their lives, confessed to having signed their names in the Devil's book, to having been baptized by him, and to have attended midnight meetings of witches, or sacraments held on the green near the parsonage, to which they came riding tlirough the air. They admitted that he had sometimes appeared to them in the form of a l)lack dog or cat, sometimes in that of a horse, and once as " a fine, grave man," Imt generally as a black man of severe aspect. But many would not so cc^nfcss, and suffered the penalty. The trials were the merest farce, the judgment apparently being made before the evidence was in. Thirteen women and five men were hung, and two — Rev. George Burroughs and Giles Corey — were pressed to death beneath heavy weights because they would neither confess nor plead to their accusations. More than one hundred others were accused and PS^? THE PARSONAGE, SALEM VILEAGE. hnprisoned, of whom seven belonged in Lvnn. INIanv of these persons were of advanced age, and the long months spent in Boston prison must have been a terrible hardship. It was a reign of terror indeed. No one was sate. The honored citizen of one dav often found himself doomed upon the next, and many happy homes were, without a moniLMit's warning, broken up, and the father or mother, and sometimes both, hurried off to prison and the mockery of a trial. The delusion finally furnished the cause of its downfall. The Rev. Jeremiah Shepherd of Lynn was denounced as a wizard. The charge was so manifestly absurd, and the friends of the worthy pastor made such demonstra- tions of opposition, that the judges called a halt. The excitement cooled as quickly as it had risen. Those confined in jail were released, and in many cases compensated for lost time ; and most of the girls whose antics had caused the mischief, came before the church, humbly confessed their errors — the blame for which was duly laid upon vSatan, who had possessed them — and pleaded for foro-iveness. Thus ended this most weird and bloody chapter in the history of our city and vicinity. It reads little like a story of real life actually lived near the spot we call home ; yet such it is. The superstitions of those old days are gone — or exchanged; but whether exchanged or gone will not be told until 54 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. two more centuries have passed by. Perhaps, then, some poet will sing of the romance of these days as sweetly as Whittier has sung the requiem of the days gone by : " How has New England's romance fled, Even as a vision of the morning I Its rites foredone, — its guardians dead, — Its priestesses, bereft of dread, Waking the veriest urchin's scorning ! Gone like the Indian wizard's yell. And fire-dance round the magic rock ! Forgotten like the Druid's spell At moonrise by his holy oak ! No more along the shadowy glen Glide the dim ghosts of murdered men; No more the unquiet churchyard dead Glimpse upward from their turfy bed. Startling the traveller, late and lone; As on some night of starless weather They silently commune together. Each sitting on his own headstone ! The roofless house, decayed, deserted, Its living tenants all departed. No longer rings with midnight revel Of witch, or ghost, or goblin evil; No pale blue flame sends out its flashes Through creviced roof or shattered sashes ! — The witch-grass round the hazel spring May sharply to the night-air sing. But there no more shall withered hags Refresh at ease their broomstick nags, Or taste those hazel-shadowed waters As beverage meet for Satan's daughters; No more their mimic tones be heard, — The mew of cat, — the chirp of bird, — • Shrill blending with the hoarser laughter Of the fell demon following after ! " M^ ^^^*«^ e^. (( ^IIIE stood upon a bare, tall crag ^_Jj Which overlooked her rugged cot — ^^ A \\'asted, gray and meagre hag, In features evil as her lot. She had the crooked nose of a witch, And a crooked back and chin; And in her gait she had a hitch, And in her hand she carried a switch To aid her work of sin — ■ A twig of wizard hazel, which Had grown beside a haunted ditch." Whittier must liave given hi.s then youthful fancy loose rein in this word- picture of our famous town.swoman. Doubtless he described what, according to the popular fancy, a witch should resemble. But Moll Pitcher was no witch, though doubtless if she had lived in the days of the witchcraft frenzy, she would have been hanged as such with little ceremony. But it was less than three- quarters of a century ago that she lived in her little cottage, opposite the head of Pearl street, on the north side of Essex, where for fifty years she solved the doubts and mysteries which troubled her contemporaries. Her father, Capt. John Dimond, commanded a small vessel sailing out of Marblehead. She was born in 1738, and early married Robert Pitcher, a Lynn shoemaker — a man of no force of character — and the chief burden of the support of the little family, one son and three daughters, early fell on her. Her ancestors had borne a repu- tation as wizards of greater or less attainment, a favorite accomplishment of her grandfather having been to pace up and down among the graves in the church- yard during the most furious storms, and direct the course of vessels attempting to make the harbor, his voice plainly audible to the sailors, no matter how loudly the storm might roar, or howr far out the vessel might be. With such a reputa- tion ready-made in the family, it is, perhaps, little wonder that young Mistress Pitcher sought to lighten the pressure of poverty by the exercise of her inherited gifts. But whatever was the motive that first impelled her to practice the art of 56 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. soothsaying, her early success was great, and her fame spread until her musical name became a household word not only throughout this land and England, but in every port where the Yankee sailor spun his yarns, were related stories of the Lvnn pythoness, which doubtless suffered no loss of embellishment or detail because of the inborn credulity of the sailor boys. Her powers lay in no special direction, but she was sought alike by the swain in doubt as to the feelings of his fair one ; by the maiden anxious to know of the safety of her sailor lover ; by the sailor, to know if he should have a safe return ; by the merchant, solicit- ous of the success of his ventures ; and by the noble, to learn the future course of the affairs of state. The well-worn path to her cottage was trodden by rich and poor, high and low, alike. No matter what their station in the outside world, within the brown cottage beneath the shadow of High Rock, in the pres- ence of the renowned fortune-teller, they stood on a common level, and for a consideration could learn the whereabouts of lost property or friends, or get the merest peep behind the curtain of the future. Lewis, who was familiar with her appearance, having known her, leaves a picture very different from the fancy sketch of the Quaker bard : " She was of medium height and size for a woman, with a good form and agreeable manners. Her head, phrenologically considered, was somewhat capacious, her forehead broad and full, her hair dark brown, her nose inclining to be long, and her face pale and thin. Her cormtenance was intellectual, and she had the contour of face and expression which, without being positively beautiful, is nevertheless cMarJ-gitcUr decidedly interesting, — a thoughtful, pensive, sometimes downcast look, almost approaching to melancholy, — an eye, when she looked at you, of calm and keen penetration, — and an expression of intelligent discernment half mingled with a glance of shrewdness." MOLL PITCHER. 57 What was the secret of the remarkalile power of Moll Pitcher? Here she dwelt all the years of a long life, going in and out before the people, her life open before them ; reputable, charitable, and given to no occult or mysterious rites other than scanning the bottom of a tea-cup or musing over the cards, and it is most likely that she had little regard for these ceremonies, but used them to gain time while cautiously watching her visitors for a clue to their history or desires ; but more often she calmly looked her customers over and talked with them face to face. Yet her fame increased with her years. The stories that are told of her achievements, not only in piercing the secrets of the future, but in solving the mysteries of the curreat happenings, would rouse the smile of in- credulity were they not recorded by persons of undoubted veracity and relia- bility. Possibly to great native shrewdness and tact in divining the hidden thoughts and desires of her visitors was added in a high degree the clairvoyant faculty ; but probably most of her revelations could be accounted for without resort to this intangible quality. According to the proverb, "• it is the unex- pected that happens ;" not that the occuiTcnces of every day are not the natural outcome of antecedent acts, but because men, in forming tlieir expectations, ordinarily think along the line of their desires, rather than according to the logic of the events of their past lives. If, therefore, the sibyl, having gained from the unsuspecting guest the main facts of his life to the time of their meeting, has the logical force to deduce from them their natural outcome in his after years, the " fortune " which she may tell him will very likely be vastly different from his anticipations, but will probably be the things which must inevitably result from his course of life. To a mind on the alert and trained by long experience^ the slightest admission may be a sufficient clew to the secret of a life. Doubt- less Moll Pitcher made a great many mistakes. These would be little heard of and soon forgotten, but a prediction verified under extraordinary circvunstances was sure to be talked of as a wonder, and to lose nothing in each repetition ; and among the thousands who sought her counsel, there could hardly fail of being many who would unconsciously furnish her with the data for a wonder- fully accurate "fortune." But even this supposition will not satisfactorily account for many of her achievements in her peculiar line, and it is easier to lay MOLL PITCHER'S COTTAGE. 58 LVXX AND SURROUNDINGS. the secret of tliem at the door of clair\-oyance than to trace them to their actual origin. Whatever was the secret of her power, she was the most successful fortune-teller of her day ; she had no equals among her predecessors, and since she died there has been none like her. The home she lived in still stands near its old foundation, on Essex, at the head of Pearl street. If only its walls could be induced to tell the many strange things they have heard in their day, and the names of all the persons who crossed the sibyl's palm with the magic key to her knowledge of the future, what a wondrously interesting story could be written ! She was maiTied on the 2nd of October, 1760, and died April 9th, 1813. " Even she, our own weird heroine. Sole Pythoness of ancient Lynn, Sleeps calmly where the living laid her; And the wide realm of sorcery, Left by its latest mistress free. Hath found no gray and skilled invader." i ^ M^^eni CpHIS strange wanderer of the seas can scarcely be classed as an exclusively Lynn institution, but in the early part of the present century he created a tremendous sensation here and hereabouts. That there was such a visitor to our sliores and bay in the early summer of 1S19 and se\eral seasous after, is true past question ; it was through attempts to describe him, and worse still, to estimate his length, that many reputations well established as to trutli and veracity received a wrench from which they have never recovered. When Col, T. H. Perkins, a well-known resident of Boston, was asked by an English friend whether he had heard of the sea serpent, he replied : " Unfortunately I have seen it." He felt that a shadow had somehow closed in upon him from which he was unable to emerge. His snakeshlp's comings were as unannounced as his departures were un- ceremonious, and he was frequently seen taking his morning swim along the shores, his head elevated at a good sight-seeing distance above the waves. Whether the people he saw wei-e too inquisitive, or the country not to his liking, is not kntnvn, but he declined to fix his residence here, though no doubt he could have made very advantageous terms as a permanent summer attraction. A recently published letter by a fellow townsman gives as good a description of him as any we have seen. " Lynn, Mass., June 36, iSSi. Mr. C. F. Holder. Dear Sir: — Yours of the 34th inst. came duly to hand, and, in reply to that part of it relating to the account given by myself of a strange fish, ser- pent, or some other marine animal called a sea serpent, I have to say that I saw him on a pleasant, calm summer morning of August, 1S19, from Long Beach, Lvnn, now Nahant. At this time he was about a quarter of a mile away ; but the water was so smooth that I could plainly see his head and the motion of his body, but not distinctly enough to give a good description of him. Later in the day I saw him again off ' Red Rock.' He then passed along about one hundred 60 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. feet from where I stood, witli head about two feet out of the water, and his speed was about the ordinary of a common steamer. What I saw of his leno-th was from fifty to sixty feet. It was very difficult to count the bunches or humps (not fins) upon his back, as, by the undulating motion, they did not all appear at once. This accounts, in part, for the varied descriptions given of him by different parties. His appearance upon the surface of the water was occasional and but for a short time. The color of his skin was dark, differing but little from the water, or the back of any common fish. This is the best description I can give of him from my own observation, and I saw the monster just as truly, although not quite so clearly, as I ever saw anything. This matter has been treated by many as a hoax, fish story, or a seaside phenomenon to bring trade and profit to the watering-places ; but, nothwith- standing all this, there is no doubt in my mind that some kind of an uncommon or strange rover in the form of a snake or a serpent, called an ichthyosaurus, plesiosaurus, or some other long-named marine animal, has been seen by hund- reds of men and boys in our own, if not in other waters. And five jDersons beside myself — Amos Lawrence, Samuel Cabot and James Prince, of Boston, Benjamin F. Newhall, of Saugus, and John Marston, of Swampscott — bore public testimony of having seen him at the time. Yours Truly, Nathan D. Chase." The gentlemen named w^ere all interviewed at the time, and their testi- mony, to make it, if possible, more conclusive, was sworn to before a magis- trate, and differed only in detail from that of JSIr. Chase, except that Mr. Mar- ston thought he might have been a hundred feet long. At various times and in various places, from Nahant to Nova Scotia, his serpentine majesty has suddenly raised his head above the waves, carrying wonder and affright to the hearts of all beholders. All tell about the same story of him with the exception of the crew of the bark "Pauline," of London. Their testimony, taken before a magistrate at Liverpool, was : "Borough of Liverpool, in the County Palatine of Lancaster, to wit: We, the undersigned, captain, officers and crew of the bark Pauline of THE SEA SERPENT. 61 Liverpool, in the County of Lancaster, in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Irehmd, do solemnly and sincerely declare that on July 8th, 1S75, in lati- tute 5 deg. S. and longitude 35 deg. W., we observed three large sperm whales, and one of them was gripped round the body with two turns of what appeared to be a huge serpent. The head and tail appeared to have a length beyond the coils of about thirty feet, and its girth eight or nine feet. The serpent whirled its victim round and round for about fifteen minutes, and then suddenly dragged the whale to the bottom head first. George Drevar, Master; Horatio Thomp- son, John Henderson Landells, Owen Baker, William Lewarn." That was quite a fish story, but it by no means measured their capacity in that line, for five days later three of the same ship's crew made affidavit that they had seen the serpent, his head '•'• elevated some sixty feet in the air." What length of body and tail would be required to enable the serpent to elevate his head sixty feet in the air, we leave for others to figure out ; but it seems a pitv that they could not have been contented to let a good enough storv alone. At intervals during these later }ears this strange wanderer of the seas has put in an appear- ance now here, now there ; but those across whose path he has swum ha\e l)e- come verv guarded in their references to him, owing, possibly, to sundrv unkind references to the unaqueous condition of their ship stores. But the local de- scriptions given of this king of the serpents have attracted wide attention in sci- entific circles, and e\en inspired one poet's muse : " Welter upon the waters, mighty one, And stretch thee in the ocean's trough of brine; Turn thy wet scales up to the wind and sun. And toss the billows from thy flashing fin; Heave thy deep breathings to the ocean's din, And bound upon its ridges in thy pride; Or dive down to its lowest depths, and in The caverns where its unknown monsters hide. Measure thy length beneath the gulf stream tide; Dr rest thee on the navel of that sea Where, floating on the maelstrom, abide The Krakens, sheltering under Norway's lee — But go not to Nahant, lest men should swear You are a great deal bigger than you are." — J. G. Br.\ineri). Willi NAHANT BREAKERS. fiiy Q^ ^^nn. :-^^ X the fourteenth day of May, 1S50, the town organiza- tion, under which L}nn had lived peacefully and happily for two centuries, was superseded by the city form of government. The change was not made without a struggle, and for two successive years Mr. George Hood, one of the most public-spirited men of the time, successfully led the opposition to the pro- posed measure; but the majority of the people were against him. Notwith- standing his pronounced opposition, his fellow-cltlzens were quick to see that his course was governed by motives of public spirit and solicitous regard for the best welfore of the town, and at the first election of city officers, he was chosen Mayor by a small majority. The first City Government was organized on the date above named, with Daniel C. Baker as President of the Council, and Richard Bassett as City Clei'k. Under the careful guidance of Mayor Hood, the machinery of the new city was soon made to run smoothly. His large busi- ness experience and knowledge of public affairs, gained by several years' service In the General Court and other public positions, specially fitted him for the duties of Mayor, and he devoted himself with as much energy to promoting the Interests of the city as he had to opposing the acceptance of the city charter. The second year he was re-elected by a very large majority, showing that the people recognized his faithful service In their behalf. The third year he de- clined a renomlnation. Among the more important events of the two years of Mayor Hood's administration may be mentioned the readjustment of the hours of labor, whereby ten hours came to be accepted as a day's work — In bringing this change about. Mayor Hood bore a leading part — the High School building on High street was dedicated ; an effort was made to preserve Long Beach from the encroachments of the sea by planting a line of red cedars along the ridge ; the excavation In Dvnigeon Rock was begun by Hiram Marble ; a grand recep- CITY OF LYXX. 63 tion was tendered to Louis Kossuth ; and the sewin^^ macliine was introcUiced. The shoe industry was in a highly prosperous condition. Largely tlirough the efforts of Mr. Samuel Brimblecom, who died in 1S50, the methods of carrying on the business had been simplified and systematized, and tlie manufacturers found a ready market for their pi-oduct at remunerative prices. The total valu- ation of the city was $4,834,843, and the municipality started out with a debt of $56,960. In 1S52 vSwampscott was set off as a separate town, and the following year Nahant gained her majority. Tlie following years were uneventful beyond the ordinary happenings of New England towns. The financial depression of 1S57 rested heavily upon rich and jDoor alike, and during the struggle to regain the ground lost, the foundation was laid for the great strike of 1S60, which created a decided sensation throughout the countrv. The hanging of John Brown, in 1859, again roused the slavery-hating citizens of Lynn to a high pitch of indig- nation, and the bells were tolled at sunrise, noon and sunset. In 1S60 the valu- ation of the city was $9,649,065, population 19,087, showing a gain of 50 per cent, in population, and 100 per cent, in wcnltli. during the dec::de. In 1861 came the news of the ^ -^- ^ fall of Fort Sumter. The first calls for troops by President Lincoln met W with a prompt response from Lvnii. In five hours after the proclamation was received, two full con:ipanic^ were armed and ready for duty, ai the following terse dispatch M'as sent to headquarters : " ^Ve have mnir men than guns — what shall we do 't " =^: At eleven o'clock the next day, April ^| i6th, they left for the seat of war. 3 These two companies — the L\ Light Infantry, Capt. George T. E Newhall, and the Lynn City Guards, ^ Capt. James Hudson, Jr. — were at- tached to the Eighth Massachusetts Regiment, of ^\•hich Timothy Mun- roe, of Lvnn, was colonel. Capt. ^^ Xewhall is still among us, hale and ""^'^ hearty, and wields a pen as mighty hon. george hood. for peace, morality and earnest living as his sword was for freedom and tlie in- tegrity of the Union. The regiment performed honorable, though not very bloody service, and returned after its three months' term without the loss, by death, of a man. IMeanwhile the war spirit had kept at fever heat, and enlist- ments went rapidly foi-ward. Throughout the war L}nn supported the Govern- ment loyally, and gave of her men and means without stint. Large and enthu- siastic war meetings were held, and great inducements in the way of bounties for volunteers offered, with the result of keeping her quota more than full. During the war Lvnn furnished 3,274 men for the field — 230 more than her 64 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. full quota. ]Many of those who went into the war from Lynn in private or sub- ordinate positions rose to j^laces of honor and distinction, and not a few who went came not back. Out of those who did return has been organized the largest Post of the Grand Army of the Republic in the country. Those were stirring times in Lynn, and to describe the great war meetings, the departure of troops for the front, the rejoicings over victories achieved, the funeral honors paid to slain soldiers, and the other moving incidents of those memorable days, would require larger limits than this volume affords. Hon. Peter M. Neal was Mayor of the city during 1S63-5. In those times the duties devolving upon the chief magistrates of our cities w^ere varied and constant. In addition to the routine work of the office, there were the added duties arising from the raising and equipping of troops, the general oversight of all relief operations, and the many questions and requests coming from the friends of those at the front. During the four years of his administration, he generally worked from sixteen to eighteen hours a day. He was indefatigable in his exertions in alleviating the suffer- ings of our soldiers and their families, and many times visited the army and hospitals, carrying good cheer and messages from home to those in the field, and relief and comfort to the wounded. After the close of the war, for many years he continued his care and service for the soldiers and their fiimilies, obtaining for many pensions from the Govern- ment, although he would never take any compensation for his efforts. Mr. Neal is a native of Maine, and was born in North Berwick Sept. 21, 181 1. His parents were Quak- ers, and he received his education and early training in the Friends' schools. After leaving school, until 1850 he was engaged in teaching in Maine. In that year he came to Lynn and engaged in the lumber business, in which he still con- tinues. HON. PETER M. NEAL. The burning of the old City Hall, which from the time of its building, in 1 8 14, until I S3 3 had stood in the center of the Common, and thereafter on South Common street, left the city without an official home until the new City Hall was completed in 1867. The new building was dedicated on Saturday, Nov. 30. The whole day was generally obsen-ed as a holiday. The dedicatory exercises were of a very interesting nature, consisting of addresses, poem, etc., and, what was of equal interest to very many, a free collation in the basement, served at noon. The beautiful structure thus dedicated is justly regarded as one CITY OF lA-XN. 65 of the chief ornaments of the city. The many conveniences for the transaction of public business which it allbnls, and the beneficent influence which it has exerted upon the arcliitecture of tlie cit^-, have made it worth the cost, wliich was about $313,000. From this time on, tlie growth and development of the city has been rapid. The shoe industry, which from the earliest times had been carried on in the little shops scattered here and there over the city, had been gradually developing toward the Victory system, and t(i center about'tlie railroad station. There were no steam engines in Lynn at that time, but the change taking place in the methods of the business rendered them a necessity, and they were soon after introduced ; and during the fevv' years ending in 1S74 many of ITV HALL. the large factories were built. Business was good, real estate rapidly advanced in price, and values of all kinds rapidly expanded. The following year the finan- cial crash came. Real estate declined more rapidly than it had risen, failures were numerous, and business had a blue time generally. This depression lasted nearly two years. The recovery was gradual but healthy, and since that time the growth of the city, while being measurably i-apid, has been regulated by the demand of the time rather than by any speculative movement. The shoe busi- ness and its collateral branches has steadily expanded. The later years have been prolific of labor troubles, and the mducements held out by va:-ious country towns have caused many of our manufacturers to locate a pdvt of their business 66 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. outside the city, where they hoped to be free from disturbance of this nature. At present, many towns in Maine and New Hampshire receive their principal business impulse from the operations of Lynn capital and brains in their midst, and hence may almost be looked upon as outlying wards of the city proper. The t\\o hundred and fiftieth anniversary of the settlement of Lynn was celebrated in 1879, .on the 17th of June. In all these many years she has enjoyed a steady increase both in population and business importance. Though possessing a large water frontage, the harbor is approachable only by a small class of vessels, the channel being both narrow and shallow. Yet when the Lynn yachtsmen come together in their annual regattas, the harbor presents an animated appearance. In respect to her harbor she has been, for all commercial purposes, less fortunately situated than some of her sisters who started in life about the same time with herself. Yet this very fact is now seen to have contributed largely to her success. Little of her capital and few of her citizens being engaged in shipping or foreign commerce, the embargoes and blockades resulting from our nvunerous wars inflicted very little loss or hardship here, and she was left free to develope the peculiar industry for which her peoj)le and soil seem best adapted ; and having a home market for her manufocture, the disturbances at home and abroad, which oftentimes had a well-nigh disastrous eflect upon many seaboard towns, troubled her but little, and that only incidentally. The foundations of the city's prosperity were laid broad and deep, and consist not more in the reputation for excellence, finish and cheapness of her product, than upon the inborn enterprise and ability of her manufocturers and the skill and faithful work of her mechanics. And enough business has gone from Lvnn, to escape labor troubles and take advantage of the inducements offered by country towns, to make, if all were collected together, another city of almost equal size and importance with herself. The census of 1SS5 credits Lynn with a population of 45,867, with 13,278 polls, a valuation of $28,459,243, and a tax roll of $533,130.53; 7,144 houses CITY OF LYNN. 67 on 564 streets, places ami courts, make i:p the city. A Police Department with 44 patrolmen guard the peace of the town ; a Fire Department of fne steamers, one chemical engine, four hose companies, and two hook and ladder companies, protect us from conflagrations. One High, seven Grammar and sixty-four Primary schools, besides numerous private schools, provide for the education of our youth, and the spires of twenty-six churches point the way to a better life. A free public library of 32,000 volumes furnishes good reading to whomsoever chooses to avail themselves of its advantages, and the social, charitable and protective associations number one hundred and three. Connection with the outer A\orld is maintained by the Boston & Maine, Boston, Revere Beach and Lvnn, and the Lvnn and Boston (Plorse) Railroad Com- panies. Five National Banks facilitate our business exchanges, and two Savings Banks guard the small savings of the people. It mav, therefore, be asserted that Lynn is not onlv a citv having a history and a goodlv heritage, but also is pos- sessed of all the advantages and appliances of a live, modern manufacturing town, and an industrv that is destined in the future, as it has dune in the past, to keep her in the front rank of the sisterhood of the cities in the Common- wealth. As we pass on, ^ve shall have occasion to examine many features of our modern city more in detail, and to get something of an idea of her resources and developments of her social life. BREAKWATER. LYNN, CHRISTMAS 1885. "^iMj^iigriiiii MT, VERNON STREET. eading "^ndusimes^ CTTIE beginnings of shocmaking in Lvnn were exceedingly small — "like a f grain of mustard seed, \vhich indeed is the least of all seeds, but when t it is grown, is the greatest among herbs." In like manner has the shoe ►j< industry grown, until our goodly city, with many sister communities in the Commonwealth, and New England as well, finds shelter " in the branches thereof." Probably Philip Kertland, the first Lynn shoemaker, did not lay claim to more than ordinary skill in the art, and for many years those wlio fol- lowed in his foQtsteps were content to do as he had done. The best shoes worn by the Lynn dames came from England and France. Those constructed here wei-e made of neat's leather, and were serviceable, if not handsome. The sole leather was worked with the flesh side out, and for nearly two centuries both shoes were made on the same last. About the year 1670 shoes began to be cut with broad straps for buckles, which were worn by women as well as men. Fifty years later buckles for ladies' shoes went out of fashion. The coming of John Adam Dagyr in 1750 gave the trade of shoemaking in Lynn the turn and impetus which led to its adoption as the leading industry of the place. He was a thorough workman, and produced shoes equal to the best made in England. The Lynn craftsmen were apt scholars, and it was not long before the fame of the Lynn shoe had spread throughout the colonies. The little, square shoe- maker's shop became an institution, and fathers and sons in their spare hours, particularly in winter, worked alongside the journeymen and apprentices, the number working in a single shop ranging from four to eight. In the years LEADING INDUSTRIES. preceding the introduction of machinery these shoe shops had become very numerous. The shoes were cut at the estabhshments of the bosses, and given out to be made through the town. Tlie ujipers were called " shoes," and the soles " stufis," and thread, wax and cvevvthing necessarv to make the shoe were m M PRIMITIVE SHOEMAKING. LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. supplied by the bosses with the shoes. The ladies of the household had quite as important a part in the work as the men. They stitched, or bound, the uppers while the men were preparing the soles. The sewing-machine made quick despatch with the time-honored occupation of our mothers and grand- mothers, but Lucy Larcom has immortalized their work in her pathetic poem of Hannah Binding Shoes. The invention, or rather the perfecting, of the McKay "Spring and winter, Hannah's at the window l.inding shoes." machine in 1S63 put an end to the old-style methods of shoemaking, and the modest shoe shops which were scattered all over the town were gradually turned over to the uses of the pigs and chickens, and the shoe factory became an insti- tution. These naturally clustered as closely as possible about the railroad. Mr. John Wooldredge was one of the first to see the advantages of the labor- saving machines, and it was he who, in 1S53, brought the first sewing-machines to Lynn, and ten years later, first applied steam power to the manufacture of shoes. It was not till the close of the war, in 1S65, that the use of steam engines in shoe factories became general. With machinery came the minute sub-divisions of the labor of making the shoe, so that, in place of the three, and possibly four, persons who would once have performed the labor upon a shoe, the work is now shared by not less than thirty-four. No more interesting trip can be taken, than with a competent guide, to go through one of the large shoe factories and watch the processes by which abstract particles of leather, iron, cloth, buttons and other things, in all more than one LEADING INDUSTRIES. 71 hundred in number, gradually come togedier in the form of a shoe. Commencing at the basement, one finds himself in a most confusing medley of brawny men in scant clothing, for it is hot down there at all seasons, huge machines which run with a clatter and thud that suggest great power, and piles of leather in all stages of manufocture, from the whole side to the soles which have been sorted, sized and tied up ready for the making rooms above. In this room we find the stripper, sole cutter, sorter and tier-up ; and one cannot help wondering if those who are runnmg the stripping and dinking machines are as indifferent to the loss of a finger or possibly a hand as they seem to be. We are next shown into the cutting room where the upper leather and linings are prepared. There is nothing ex- citing here. These twenty or more gentlemen who are ranged around the room, each at his cutting-board, work with a deliberation and care wliich is seen in no other part of the flictory, but necessary to faithful work. In tliis room we find four more divisions of the work — i, outside cutter; 2, linin*>- cutter ; 3, trimming cutter ; 4, dier-out. Following our guide we mount anotlier flight of steps and find ourselves in the stitching room. The energetic clatter of the different busy machines render us olilivious to the conductor's explanatory remarks, and we content ourselves with watching the continued evolution of the shoe under the busy, skilful fingers of the operatives. The uppers pass first into the hands of the lining maker, then to the closer, third, seam-rubber; fourth, back-stayer ; fifth, front-stayer ; sixth, closer-on ; seventli, turner ; eighth, top-stitcher; ninth, button-hole cutter; tenth, corder ; eleventli, button-sewer. On casting up our account so far, we find that twenty persons have had a part in making our shoe. From the stitching room we are taken to the finishing room, where the bottoms and uppers, which have thus far been travelling by different routes are finally brought together. In this room, as in the stitching room and basement, everything is lively. Men and boys are working as if for life and scarcely stop to bestow a look upon the visiting party. Racks and horses filled with shoes hi all stages of completion fill the floor, and numerous odd looking machines are located at convenient spots. At one end of this room the compo- nent parts of the shoe come together m the hands of the stock-fitter, wliom we numl)er twenty-one in our list, and are passed from hand to hand until the}- ar- rive at the other end completed, ready for packing and shipment. From the stock-fitter we watch our shoe go into the hands of the laster, who, with a dozen of his fellows, works at an odd-shaped l^ench. Attention is attracted to one who is evidently a veteran. Taking a preparatory chew of tobacco, which he carefully stows away in one cheek, and with a backward toss of the head filling the other with something less than a gill of sharp tacks, he pro- ceeds to last our shoe ; and with caring for the tobacco, working the tacks one by one to liis lips with his tongue, and dropping an occasional emphatic ejacu- lation as he drops a tack or pounds his thumb, his mouth is kept as busy as his hands. The cutting and lasting departments of the shoe factory are the only ones which have not been successfully invaded by the labor-saving machines, and these are about the most important in the factory. Upon the good judg- ment and close calculation of the cutter depend, in large measure, uniformity in the quality of the product and the profits of the business, for no degree of ability •or foresight in the management can counteract the ravages of a wasteful cutter ; 72 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. LEADING INDUSTRIES. and upon the faithfulness and skill of the laster depend the fit and set of the shoe, assuming, of e..ursc, that the work leading up to the laster has hecn faith- fully done. Hence it is, that good lasters are always in demand, and their Union has maintained a more independent position than any other organization connected with the craft has been able to assume. Invention has now^turncd its attention to this department, and a young Lymi mechanic has produced a lasting machine which promises to be successful, though it has not yet come into gen- eral use. From the laster the shoe goes to the sole-layer, whom we numlier'^23 ; next to the McKay stitcher, 24 ; and then on to the beater-out, 25 ; trimmer, 26 ; edge-setter, 27 ; liner, 28 ; nailer, who fastens on the heel, 29 ; shaver, 30 ; buf- fer, 31 ; burnisher, 32 ; channeller, 33 ; and the shoe which started as a numl)er of abstract particles so little time ago, is now completed ready to be stamped and placed in neat paper cartons by the packer, and shipped to its destination. In our enumeration we ha\e named only those who perform the most important parts in the making of a shoe. But in the different processes of tanning the leather and numerous subordinate parts in the shoe factory, the united laljor of more than fifty people are required to produce a modern pair of ladies' shoes. The shoe and leather industry is found clustered as closely as possible about the railroad, and in the "shoe district;" the most of the buildings wh'ch are not occupied as manufactories of shoes or leather are devoted either to some branch of business intimately associated therewith, or to the dispensing of animal comforts. This district lies almost wholly between Liberty and Market streets, and Broad, Silsbec and Mulberry streets. Some of the finest factories in the city are on Willow street. Looking down the street toward Central square at any hour of the day, one gets a vivid impression of the busy life that constantly throbs through this street and the great artery beyond. On the rio-ht are the buildings occupied by the Lynn Shoe Supply Co. and T. J. Little & Co. ; on the left the factories of Keene Brothers, A. M. & J. H. Preble, W. A. Dole & Whittredge, and M. J. Worthley and the leather firm of Lothrop & Bowen. Passing Oxford street, on the left are seen the large Tebbetts foctory and the fine Mower build- ^, ^^ ^ ing. Included in this sec- tion is the large building occupied by Morgan & Dore, on Oxford street, shown on page seventy- nine. This enterprising ' firm do only a portion of ^ their business in Lynn, having large factories at Pittsfield, N.H., and Rich- mond, Me. Keene Bros. also do a large business at Skowhegan,Me. Passing into Central square, we get an animated view of that busy center. On the /" - rht CHAS. D. PECKER &. CO.'S FACTOkY. is the large Fuller block, occupied by 74 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. Charles D. Pecker & Co., who also have a large factory at Great Falls, N. H., and by numerous express and other offices. Many of the buildings on the square are scarcely appropriate to the place they occupy, but in the march of progress they will doubtless ere long be replaced by more comely structures. Mt. Vernon street is occupied by some of our most enterprising firms. The sign of L. S. Johnson on the corner, and the name of F. W. Breed, have come to be legarded as landmarks, and the whole street has a substantial and prosperous aiDpearance. Exchange street, the Fine street of the olden time, is a busy spot, but the build- ings are mostly small and of wood. Union street, from the square to Broad street, has, during the past few years, taken rapid strides forward, and now some of our strongest Ji firms and best equipped lii factories are located here. ^ The Brown and IngalK buildings, on the left were the first brick fac- tories on the street. Thr Ashcroft building, on the corner of Washington antl Union streets, is a sub- stantial and comely struc ture, and some live firms are located in it. The firm of Shepherd, Murphy & Co., who occupy the corner store, are among our most enterprising young concerns, who do a safe and constantly in- -. _ creasing business. The central square. firm of John S. Bartlett & Co. occupy the large building on the opposite corner, successors of the name and fame of the old firm of B. F. Doak & Co. The new Buftum block, opposite Washington street, is a handsome structure, and a de- cided ornament to that section. The factory of Mr. J. N. Smith was one of the first large buildings built in this section, and is one of the few large wooden fac- tories now remaining. The large Alley building, near the foot of the street, is a very convenient, well-equipped block, and is occupied by Kimball Brothers, who also have a large factory in Gardiner, Me., and the firm of Charles Buflum & Co., a substantial firm of long standing. Mr. Buftum antedates most of the shoe manufacturers in Lynn now in active business. Broad street was at one time headquarters for much of the business done in the town, but its glory has in a measure departed. The handsome factory of V. K. & A. H. Jones, on the corner of Beach street, and the large block at the head of Buflxim's wharf, are the only large factories on this street. The lower end of Market street has always been identified with the shoe and leather industry. In the cut previously LEADING INDUSTRIES. 75 shown of this thoroughfare in 1S20 are numerous tanneries and shoe shops. The Lennox block on the right, and the Lancaster and tlie Martin buildings on the left, are substantial and commodious structures. The large blocks of facto- ries on either side of the street above the railroad, erected many years since by Hon. Samuel jM. Bubier, contribute a fixed, settled aspect to that section which is lacking in some parts of the city. Mr. Bubier has been identified with the shoe business in Lynn for a long time. He was formerly an extensive manufac- turer, and has witnessed all the changes which have taken place. He has now retired from that branch of the business, and devotes himself to the care of his large property and to supplying power to many buildings in the vicinity of THE ASHCROFT BUILDING, UNION STREET. Market street, besides his own. He has al\va\s taken an active interest in the affairs of the town, and served one term as mayor in 1877- ^Slnnroe street has several large factories, notably that of P. P. Sherry, which at the time of its erection was the highest building in the city. Mr. Sherry laid down the prin- ciple, which has since been extensively followed, that land grows cheaper the higher up vou go ; but considerations quite as potent as that named are tlie good light and freedom from dust afforded by the upper rooms in high buildings, which is essential to good workmanship, particularly in the finishing rooms. On Oxford street is the handsome new building of D. A. Caldwell & Co., occu- pied by D. A. Caldwell & Co. and J. F. Swain & Co., erected in 1SS5. This 76 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. is one of the best apjDointed factories in the city, and in the design of the front elevation, more attention was paid to architectural effect than has been done in the plans of many of our large factories. The other large establishments on Oxford street are those of C. S. Sweetser and Aaron F. Smith, and the hand- some new building erected on the site of C. A. Coffin's factory, burned in iSS: Passing out Washington street we come to the large block, recently completed, of Val- pey & Anthony, one of the finest in the city. The course of our wanderings has brought us nearly back to the point of start- ing, and during our walk we have inspected the principal part of the shoe district. The list of shoe manufacturers in Lynn number one hundred and seventy-six, rang- ing from single individuals manufacturing in a small way to large corporations and firms running several large factories and employing hundreds of hands. Nearly all grades of women's shoes and slippers are made, from the cheapest slipper to the finest French kid boot. The methods of transacting the shoe business have changed quite as much as first a home market was found for most of the product. THE ALLEY BUILDING, UNION STREET. the processes of manufacturing. At Then, after the coming of Dag}r and the improvements in the workmanship and quality of the goods which he introduced, the surplus found a market in Boston, being transported ^- — thither in bags, boxes, or in any convenient pack- age, sometimes on the backs of the bosses, who walked to Boston and re- turned in the same man- ner, but more commonly by team. After the close of the War of the Revo- lution, the business be- came very much de- pressed, owing to the m|'<- ' ""^^^^^^^^fe^^^^^^ competition of shoes '^M^'-'r — -^-" ^^^^^ ^^^ made abroad. The mat- ter was brought to the attention of Congress, then in session in Phila- nn, and Stephen Collins, a native of Lynn, but doing business in Philadelphia ; and a tariff was placed upon foreign shoes, which had the immediate effect of reviving the industry. Thus the shoe manufacturing industry was the first to be taken under the S V. K. & A. H. JONES' FACTORY, BROAD STREET. delphia, through the efforts of Ebenezer Breed, of Lj LEADING INDUSTRIES. 77 protecting wing of the Government. Mr. Breed suhseqnentl}' introduced into the city the manufacture of morocco leather, for whicli he received a vote of thanks from the National Committee of Manufactures and Commerce. He also secured the establishment of the Lynn Post-Otiice in 1793. For many 3'ears he did a very large business, but late in life misfortune overtook him, and he ended his days in the almshouse. Much of the man- ufacturing sixty years ago w^as done by Mi- cajah C. Pratt, James Pratt, Nathan Breed, Isaiah Breed and Nathan D. Chase, whose manufactories were all on Broad street. Isaiah Breed's office was in his dwelling- house on what is now the corner of Broad and Exchange streets. For many years they received very little money for their goods, but took their pay in barter, and in turn paid their workmen in orders on store. keepers in Lynn and Salem. This system kept the workmen always poor and in del)t^ and in 1S43 they rebelled against it, and have since received their pay in cash. From Boston the shoes were sent South, and for many years were sold at auction, oftentimes being sent thither by car- goes, the first full cargo being sent in iSiS. Between 1S20 and 1S29 this was abandoned and the jobbers from the ^luthcm -' < ^ c mie hither to purchase, THE NEW BUFFUM BLOCK, UNION STREET. th it they migl FACTORY OF C. H. ABORN & CO. AND C. W. VARNEY & CO., BROAD STREET. ;ht be ' !e the better to select >ds suitable for their dities. This cus- m IS still kept up to a (iL^ice, but twice each \ c u the large manufac- is send their sales- n west and south, ^^ lio bring their sam- ples to the attention of e\ei\ dealer whose cus- tom is worth having. These salesmen are, \\ itli rare exceptions, ung men of character 1 proved capacity, who do credit to the industry which they represent. If there be any modern tendency in the trade toward a change, it is to be found in the disposition of many of the large houses to sell directly to re- tailers without the inten-ention of middle-men, and there are those who predict 78 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. that this system will be the outcome of the present degree of comjDetition among manufacturers. Tanning became an industry in Lynn some years before shoemaking was introduced. Francis Ingalls, who came hither with his brother Edmund, chose for his habitation the pleasant slope which leads down to Swampscott beach, and on Humphrey street, by the brook, built his tannery, and Alonzo Lewis states that he saw the remains of the vats used in curing the leather. The business was continued for many years with varying success, at times highly prosperous, and at times leather could be bought in other markets cheaper than it could be manufactured here ; but in these last years the bulk of the business has centered about Salem and Peabody. In iSoo, through the ellbrts of Eben- ezer Breed, the manufacture of mo- rocco leather was introduced. The first factory was established by Wil- liam Rose on the south side of the the lennox block, market street. Common, opposite wdiere the fountain now is. This industry has grown with the tow^i, and now is only second in importance to the manufacture of shoes. The manufactories are not confined to any particular section of the city. The mammoth establishment of A. B. Martin & Co. on Market street, and of Henry A. Pcvcar & Sons near Boston street, are among the largest in town. Several large concerns are located in Harrison .court, others on Munroe, Broad and Beach streets. The large factory of Lu- cius Beebe & Sons, on Western avenue, is one of the most complete establish- ments of its kind in the East. There are twenty-seven firms engaged in this branch of manufacture, and the pi-oduct finds a market in nearly every shoe town in the country. In addition to the two leading branches of the shoe and leather industry already mentioned, there are many others directly contributory to them. Among them may be mentioned fifty-seven dealers and manufacturers of boot and shoe soles, heels, stiffenings, &c., sixty-six stitching- rooms, twenty dealers and manufacturers of findings and supplies, thirteen manufacturers of boot and shoe machinery, besides numerous other sub-divisions of the business. In the production of labor-saving machinery Lynn mechanics have made several notable contributions, which are to be seen in every well- D. A. CALDWELL & CO.'S FACTORY, OXFORD STREET. LEADIXr; INDUSTRIES. 79 regulated shoe factory. One of the hitcst inventions, and one which promises to MOIIGAX cV: DORE ^ I \e 1 OIl\ , 0\I OKI) s FK' LI become of great practical utility, is a lasting machine which lasts a shoe perfectly LUCIUS i;k]:]je ct soxs' factory, west lynn. 80 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. ww;" u ^ LEAD1\( ; INI )USrRIKS. SI in the time a shoemaker ofhfty years ago woiiUl be getting his tools together. Another industry inseperably allied to the mamitacture of shoes is the making of wood and paper boxes. In the manufacture of the latter, machinery has largely taken the place of the former hand pi-ocesses. The improvenu-nt in the stvle and appearance of the shoes in the last fifty years is no more marked than the changes in the manner of sending out the gootls to market. It was a long step from the bags and barrels formerly in use, and the neat, and often highly orna- mented, individual carton in which the shoes are now packed. The factories of the Thomson-Houston Electric Co., on Western Avenue are among the most extensive works of the kind in the country, and give employ- ment to a large number of men. They manufacture supplies and machinery for the electric-lighting companies, and their products find a ready market. The general business of Lynn, aside from the special lines of manufacture already described, is composed chiefly of local retail trade. The section of Union street above Central square, and of Market street between Andrew and Essex streets, are chiefly given over to this branch of business. Lynn has a number of large firms engaged in the dry goods, clothing and house furnishing business, and the business in these lines is constantly increasing, the people being able to purchase about as advantageously here as in the large market of Boston. As in most manufacturing towns where wages are paid weekly, the rush of business comes on Saturday, and no more animated spectacle can he seen in any city than is presented on Market and Union streets on any pleasant Saturday evening. Taking all things into consideration, the facilities for carrying on the leading industries, the nearness of the city to the great business centres of New England and the ease of railroad communication therewith, the excellence of her home markets, and her beautiful and healthful location, the advantages of Lynn, either for business or residence, are surpassed by no New England city. ft C)Wfilr^' SLIDING ROCK, LYNN BEACH. ^^ong t>he ^hu^&hes^ THE first church in Lynn was formed in May, 1633, three yeai's after the settlement of the town. In the order of church organizations in the Mas- sachusetts colony, this was fifth — the church in Salem first ; next, that in Charlestown, which was afterwards removed to Boston ; next, that in Dor- chester ; next, in Roxbury ; next, in Lynn. All the churches organized prior to that in Lynn have ceased to be numbered among the churches of the Puritan faith ; and the same is true of those planted before it in the Plymouth colony. Thus it may be said that the First Church in Lynn has been longer on the ground where it was originally planted than any Congregational Church in America, and the claim is made that it is the oldest living Congregational Chui-ch in the world. The little house on Shepard street, which for fifty years sei-ved the pur- poses of a church, was a very modest structure, and the room where the people met for wor- ship has been aptly described as " a basement with no up-stairs," the floor being several feet below the ground outside. In 16S3 the main portion of the house was moved to the Com- ^--=- mon, and was metamorphosed into that sin- gular architectural curiosity known as the Old THE ORIGINAL FIRST CHURCH. Tuunel. The porch of the Shepard street house finally found its way to Harbor street, where it still does humble duty as part of a dwelling. The country was sparsely settled, and though the church was made up of people from Lynn, Lynnfield and Saugus, the little house was ample for all requirements for half a century. The Old Tunnel meeting-house stood in the middle of the Common, and was the center of spiritual influences AMONG THE CHURCHES. 83 for the community for many years. Nearly square in form, with windows somewhat irregularly placed, and the bell-tovvcr on the center of the roof, it at a distance must have borne a striking likeness to that useful article whose name it subsequently bore. It was originally built without pews, and permission to build them was granted from time to time by vote of the town. Each person built his pew according to a plan of his own, so at last the interior of the church must have had a sort of crazy-quilt appearance. This house kept its place till 1837, when it was removed to the corner of Commercial and South Common "the old tuxxei.. streets, and lemodeled. Here it served the purposes of the society ten years more, when its new church on the corner of Vine and South Com- mon streets was completed. This was a commodious edifice, although it might not be set down as a triumph in church architecture. On the afternoon of Christmas, 1S70, the house took fire from some defect in the heating appara- tus, and was consumed. The society immediately set about the task of rebuild- ing. The corner-stone of the present beautiful structure was laid on the loth of the following Mav, and the house was dedicated on the 29th of August, 1S73, witli appropriate services. It is interesting to note the steps in the evolution of 84 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. SECOND LXUKliSAI.lST CHUKCll, lOK.MKRLV TllK " OLD TIXNEL." the present house. Each of the five successive structures is a sua^gestion of the attainment and prog- resources and in some plain and bare, w^ithout more indicative of the tiers, than of the ex-, the showy, ceremonial ^^ ress of the people, both in material of their religious ideas. The first, stove or comfortable seats, was not straitened circumstances of the set- reme revolt of the Puritans from worship of the Anglican church. ^The Old Tunnel shows something I of the returning swing of the pend- ulum, and in its dav was considered I-IKST CHIRCII," BURNED IN 1870 AMONG THE CHURCH MS. quite remarkable as an architectural achievtMiipni •.„ i discovered that ,l,ei,- hi,,t„nc meeting-house was becon^in. 1- s ',, soon the „an,c bv wl.ici, it has passed into history was appUe.Fin ,' die ',,:;,:;!.; SOl^TH COMMON ST. its fate was sealed. Each of the succeedinle of passmg tram sometimes painfully apparent. 1 1 ■ ,- The North Church was formed in 1S70, largely from the memlK-rslup ot First Church, and though youngest among the Congregational churches ot city, is largest in point of membership ; and as the section ot the oty m wine is located is growing more rapidly than any other, it is destined to c..ntnu.e to an important place among the churches of Lynn. The pastor. Rev James Hill, has been with the church since 1S75, and is the oldest m othce ot non s is the the h it . fiU L. any 88 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. pastor among the Protestant churches in the city. Mr. Hill was born in a home mis- sionary cabin in Iowa, and graduated from Iowa College in iS7i,and in 1S75 from An- dover Theological Seminary. He immediately assumed the pastorate of this church, to which he had been previously unanimously called. Under his wise leadership the church has had a steady growth. In sj^gi 1 878 he was chosen by th;: Legislature to preach the elec- tion sermon, which was done at the Old South Meeting- Ilouse. In 1881 jSIr. Hill vis- ited Europe, and in 1SS3 was chosen to deliver the Alumni oration at his Alma Mater. He was active in promoting the formation of the Associa- ted Charities. As a public speaker, JSIr. Hill has few superiors. His relations with NORTH CHURCH, LAIGHTOM ST. his people are of the most cordial na- ture, and he has declined flattering calls from other places to remain here, it being, as is frequently said, a love-match between him and his people. The second meeting-house in Lynn was erected in 1678 for the use of the Society of Friends, and was situa- ted on a spot known as Wolf Hill, on Broad street. It stood in front of the present Friends' burying- ground, where it remained until 1 723, The next house was built near the front line of that enclosure. This structure was used until 1816, when it was sold, and a more commodious meeting-house built near the same place, where it remained until 1852, when it was removed to its present REV. JAMES L, AMONG THE CHURniKS. 89 location on Silsbee street. The old house passed through various hands, and now serves as an office for the lumber firm of S. N. Breed & Co. on tlie corner of Beach and Broad streets. Now this location is bein,<( improved by the erection of a more commodious structure, and the little historic church will doubtless disappear, though its timbers arc as sound as tlie theoloc-v formerly expounded in it. The society at present, though not large as com- pared with many others, is active and flourishing and, after the custom of tlie sect, has several ministers, Micajah M. Binford, William O. Newhall and Abi- gail C. Beede. Recent repairs have much improved the appearance of tlie church, and in its setting of trees, has a quiet, retired settled look (juite appropriate to the oldest church building in use as a church in the city. Methodism took early root in Ljnn. The Rev. Jesse Lee had introduced this religious system into Connecticut in 1790, establishing a number of classes in the vi- cinity of Bridgeport. The following year he came to Boston, where for a time ]\v labored, with poor success. Shortly after he came to Lynn, on invitation of Mr. Benjamin Johnson, one of the foremost men of the town. Tlie time was propi- tious in a marked degree. The dissen- tions which had crept into the First Church — which, with the Friends' Societ\-, had held the field until that time — caused the many who were dissatisfied with the exist- ing state of things to eagerly welcome an\ OLD BOWERY." movement which offered them release. Mr. Lee came directly to Mr. Johnson's house, which stood on ALirket street, on the pres- ent site of Exchange building, and there the fir,>t Alethodist meetings were held, whence the house came to be called the " birthplace of Methodism." Mr. Lee's coming was in Februarv. His first class consisted of eight persons, though hundreds flocked to hear his preaching. A week after, twenty-one were added. In May the number was fifty-one. At that time the class received the sudden ad- dition of one hundred and eight persons, who " signed off" from the First Parish. Soon the large dwelling-house of Mr. Johnson became insufficient for the worshippers, and they made his barn their sanctuary. The society became th c l ch prosperous in the highest degree. Soon the society outgrew the barn, anil it 90 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. was resolved to build a church. The first Methodist meeting-house was built on the site of Lee Hall, and so great was the zeal of the builders that the house was finished so as to be used for worship in twelve days from the commencement of cutting the trees in the forest, but remained innocent of laths and plaster for a long time. This little house had no front entrance, but was approached by a door on each side, and it stood so that its front projected about eight feet into the street, as the lines now run. It served the purposes of the society until 1812, when the Old Bowery was built, and the little church was removed to West Lynn, where it afterward became the cradle of a Baptist church, and later still passed into the hands of the Catholics. The new church, with numerous additions and alterations, held its place until the present beautiful edifice was completed in 1879. This building is one hundred and twenty-three feet in length and seventy-three in width, with a chapel adjoining, ninety- one feet in length by seventy-three feet in width. The affairs of the parish have always been ably administered, and it is now one of the most prosper- ous societies in Lynn. Rev. J. D. Pickles is pastor. St. Paul's Methodist Church, or- ganized in 181 1, was the second Meth- odist Church in Lynn, and was the first Methodist Cliurch in Massachusetts that was built with a steeple. The comfort of worship for many years va- lied according to the weather, as no btove was introduced until 1831. In Xovember, 1859, ^^""^ house was de- stro^'ed by fire, but within nine months the house now standing had been fin- shed ready for occupancy. Rev. \V. R. Clarke is pastor. The South Street M. E. Church was organized in 1830, and the house now standing was erected the same year. It was originally a ST. PAUL'S METHODIST CHURCH. pj^j^^ Substantial edifice without a steeple. The building has been altered and beautified until it is one of the prettiest churches in the city. The pastor is Rev. Samuel Jackson. The Boston Street M.E. Church was organized in 1853, and the church was erected in 1853. The building has been enlarged from time to time, and the church is one of the most active and efficient in the city. Rev. A. TvIcKeown is pastor. The Maple St. M. E. Society was organized in 1851, though religious services had been held in that vicinity for inany years. Their church on the corner of Chestnut and Ma- ple streets was dedicated in 1872, and is a very neat and convenient edifice. Rev. W. B. Toulmin is pastor. The African Methodist Episcopal Society, organ- ized in 1856, has a very comfortable, thougli plain, house of worship on Mailey AM()N(; rilK ClIURCIIK is the youn<2jest of in 1S73 as a mis,'- le Mctliodist u enterprise, d still remains with the society. SOUTH STREET METHODIST CHURCH. Street. Trinity Church, on Tower Hill churches in Lynn, having been formed Rev. Alonzo Sanderson v^as appointed pastor The church edifice on the corner of Boston and Ashland streets was dedicated in 1874. The Methodist Church, both in number of societies and in membership, outnumbers any other denomination in Lynn. The First Baptist Society was organized in 1S15, but the Baptist belief found lodg- ment in Lynn very soon after the settlement of the town, not, however, without encoun- tering decided opposition. As early as 16^0 we find Joseph Rednap being brought t book because he could not accept the do trine of infant baptism, and for the sam reason Lady Deborah IVIoody, a most esti- mable huh', who owned a fine farm in Swampscott, was so beset by tlie elders i 1 the church that she sold her property an removed to New York, where old Govenu Stuyvesant received her hospitably. In 165 1 three men, whose names were John Clarke, John Crandall and Obadiah Hohnes, came hither from Newport, R. L, in which state a degree of religious liberty, not dreamed of in Massachusetts, was enjoyed. They went to the house of William Witter in Swampscott, where INIr. Clarke preached, and rebaptized Mr. Witter. This being reported to the authorities, two constables went down to Swampscott and arrested them. That night they were kept under guard at the Old Anchor Tavern, and the next day were sent to Boston and imprisoned. Ten day, afterward they were brought before the courts and Mr. Holmes was fined thirty pounds, Mr. Clarke twenty, and Mr. Crandall five. The fines of the two latter were paid, but Mr. Hounes refused to pay his or allow it to be paid, and was retained in prison until September, when he was publicly whipped, receiving thirty stripes on the bare back. The whijD was made of three cords with knotted ends, and the record has it _^ that the executioner spat three times on his own C -^^^^^L. - :'-'"-—- " ^ hands, that he might honor justice. And in a dO:>tonTtrc£T Methodist church, manuscript left by Governor Joseph Jenks, it is written that "Mr. Holmes was whii)peJ 30 stripes, and in such an unmerciful manner that for many days, if not some weeks, he could not take rest but as he 92 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. lay upon his knees and elbows, not being able to suffer any part of his body to touch the bed." When he was released, two spectators, John Shaw and John Hasel, went up and took hold of his hand to sympathize with him, for which they were fined forty shillings each. William Witter was made of different metal. He was presented at Salem Court for his connection with the affair, and the following record was made: "William Witter, now comeing in, answered humbly, and confessed his Ignorance, and his willingness to see Light, and (upon Mr. Norris, our Elder, his speech) seemed to be staggered. Inasmuch as he came in court meltinglie, sentence — Have called our ordenance of God, a badge of the Whore — on some Lecture day, the next 5th day, being a public fast, To acknowledge his fait, and to ask Mr. Cobbett forgiveness, in saying he spok against his conscience. And enjoined to be heare next court att Salem." After this, the coming of the Qiiakers and the antics of the witches kept the authorities too busy to attend to minor matters of belief. In May, 181 5, the First Baptist ^ Society purchased the meeting-house which the Methodist ^ society had vacated, and as if to emphasize the change of sen- i timent that had taken place, this house was placed on land jl purchased of the First Congregational Church, in full sight m of their own house of worship — the very church which had lln persecuted the Baptists, and delivered them over to the au- /flll thorities to be punished, one hundred and |HI sixt} -four years before. This building had .^-^ llSI ^ checkered career, being last of all occupied ^^ k WM, ^v the Catholics, and was u.UJ-'L- 1 IKsl 15 \1'I isl c m RCII burned in 1S59. The edifice at present occupied by the society was erected in 1S67. It is a commodious and comfortable house. Rev. F. T. Hazlewood is pastor. AMONG THE CHURCHES. 93 The Second or Washington Street Bajitist Society was established in 1851. Serv'ices were first held in Union Hall on Union street, and in 1S58 the church on High street was dedicated. In 1874 the beautiful church on the corner of Essex and Washington streets was built, which is one of the finest chinch edifices in town. The pastor is Rev. Benjamin A. Greene. The Third Baptist Society, in Wyoma, was or- ganized in 1 858, and services were regu- larlv maintained until 1876. Since then WASHINGTON ST. BAPTIST CHURCH. the church has been served bv supplies. The East or Fourth Baptist Society was organized April 21, 1S74, largely from members withdrawing from the Second Bap- tist Society at the time the move from High to Washington street was made. The society in the month of October following purchased the church property of the Free Bapti.st Soci- ety on Union street, and is now known as the East Baptist Church. The pastor is Rev. Henry Hinck- ley. The Union Street Freewill Baptist Church was organized Sept. 7, 1S71. After tlie sale of its church property to the ICast Bapti.st Society, the church on High street was purchased, and now the society is in a verv prosperous condi- tion. The pastor is Rev. John Malvern. EAST BAPTIST CHURCH, UNION ST. 94 I.VXN AND SURROUNDINGS. The Chestnut Street Church was formed in 1S57 ^^Y ^^^ Baptists, by wliom worship was maintained for many years. The church building is now occupied by the Chestnut Street Congregational Society, who have within a year repaired and beautified it, and the society is enjoying a career of prosperity hitherto unknown. Rev. Jay N. Taft is pastor. The Second Congregational Society was organized April 5, 1S32, and their first house of worship was dedicated the following year. In the summer of 1S53 the church edifice on South Common St. was enlarged and remodeled. This is the only Unitarian Society in Lynn. Rev. Samuel B. Stewart is pastor. FIRST UNIVERSALIST CHURCH, NAHANT ST. The First Universalist Society was foi'med in 1S33, though Universalism had been preached in Lynn alternately since 181 1. For three years services were held in the Town Hall, and in 1835 the society built a church on Union street, near Silsbee. In 1850 this house was enlarged and re-dedicated, and in 1864, to meet the growing demands of the society, the house was again enlarged. The corner-stone of the church on Nahant street was laid in May, 1873, and the church was dedicated Sept. 18, 1873. The tower was not completed until 1886. The cost of the church and site was $140,000. It is one of the finest church structures in New England, and an ornament to the town. This church has had a remarkable growth, and has had some very able men as pastors. AMONC; TIIH CHURCHES. i"^ In point of membership and the munher of people directly and indirectly con- nected with it, it is the largest Universalist church in tiie world, so far as is known. The Sunday school numbers upwards of seven hundred . Rev. Janu ^ M. Pullman, D. D., pastor of the church, is one of the most prominent clergymen of his denomination in the country. He was born at Portland, Chautauqua Co., N. Y., Au- gust 21, 1836, and graduated from St. Lawrence Divinity School, Canton, N. Y., in i860. During the succeeding eight years, he was pastor of the First Universalist Church, Troy, and from there he went to the Church of Oin- Saviour, New York citv, where he remained until he was called to Lynn in 1S85. During this long pastorate of seventeen years, he made a reputation, not only in the pulpit, but in all the depart- ments of church work, which placed him in the front rank of American ministers of the Gospel. He has a marked talent for organization, and in Rev. j. m. pullman, o. o. this line he has achieved some of his most pronounced successes. During his pas- torate in New York, the Church of Our Saviour was erected. He was the or- ganizer and first president of the Young Men's Universalist Association in New York city, and has been prominently connected with the leading educational institutions of his denomination in New York. Since his residence in Lynn, his church, always a strong and active organization, has largely extended its influence, and his strong personality is felt in each line of eftort put forth by the society. The Second Universalist Church was formed in 1836, and in 1839 it pur- chased the church on the corner of So. Common and Commercial streets, formerly the Old Tunnel, which they still occupy. Rev. John C. Mclnerney is pastor. The Christian Church was organized in 1835. The first church was built the same vear on the south side of Silsbee street, next to the railroad bridge. In 1840 the present church was built, and in 1S80 this was remodeled and the tower added. Rev. A. A. Williams is the pastor, having been with the society since 1S77. For two hundred years after its settlement, the Episcopal .system found the New England atmosphere uncongenial. An attempt was made to form a 96 LYiNTN AND SURROUNDINGS. CHRIST CHURCH. church here in 1S19. Services were contin- ued in the Lynn Academy for some two years, when they were abandoned. In 1S34 a society was formed, wliich took the name of Christ Church. Occasional sei'vices were held during that year, and regular service was begun on the first Sunday of January, 1S35, at Liberty Hall. These services were continued, with little interruption, for two years, and July 20, 1S37, a church edifice which had been erected during the year was consecrated. This modest structure stood on North Common street, between Franklin avenue and Hanover street. Meet- ings were maintained until 1841. In 1844 a reorganization was effected. The name now IXTERIOR OF ST. STEPIIKXS. borne by the society adopted, and the church edifice erected in 1837 was bought. This house sensed the purposes of the society until the present beautiful structure was consecrated in 1881, This edifice was the gift to the society ofHon. E. Reding- tonMudge, as a memorial of his son, Charles Redington, a lieutenant-colonel in the AMON(; TlIK ClIURCni Union forces, who was killctl at Gettysburg, and his daugh- ter, Fanny Olive, who thcd July 3, 1S79. The corner- stone bad been laid on tlie 19th of May, iSSo, and in its construction and furnishing nothing was spared that could add to its beauty and completeness. The walls are constructed of reddish-brown sandstone, with facings of brick. The style of architec- ture gives a happy combined effect of massive solidity and W gracefid outline. Viewed from whatever point one may approach it, tlie impression received is pleasing and in- - spiring, and St. vStephen's Church of Lynn has come to be reckoned among the fa- mous churches of the country. The interior is very beautiful. Our view is taken from the rear of the main audience- room, lookhrcf toward the chance m p-»" ^ E. REDINGTON MUDGE. ST. STEPTIKX S CIIUKCII, SO. COMMON' LYxMN AND SURROUNDINGS. Mr. Mudge, at whose hand the society received this costly and beautiful trust, was a son of Rev. Enoch Mudge, a native of Lynn, but for many years resident in Orrington, Maine. His business talent was of the highest order, and he used his large fortune as a ti'ust to be administered for the benefit of his fellow-men and the city of his adoption. His mental qualities were such as to easily place him among the foremost in any company. He enjoyed the esteem and respect of his neighbors and friends in a marked degree. The building of St. Stephen's was regarded by him, and proved to be, the crowning work of his life. Tlie work was pushed forward with his whole energy, that his wife, who was an invalid and not expected to long sunive, might witness its completion. But on Saturday, October i, just as the work was nearly done, he was taken ill, before noon had died, and his own funeral was the first sei-vice held in the nearly completed church. Rev. Frank LouisNor- ton, D. D., is the Rector of St. Stephen's Parish. Dr. Norton was born in Nonvich, Conn., and re- ceived his education in the public schools, and at Trin- ity College, and the Berke- ley Divinity School. He began his ministry as the assistant to the Rector of St. Thomas' Church, New York, and has been himself Rector of the Church of Our Saviour, Longwood, St. John's Church, Troy, and for the three j-ears previous to his coming to Lynn was Dean of the Cathedral at Albany, N. Y. He received his degree of Doctor of Divinity in 18S4. Always fond of literary pm'suits, he has published the " Priest's Book" and " The Excepts REV. F. L. NORTON. D.D. of Our Lord," both of which ran through two editions. As a preacher he is earnest and scholarly, and has always drawn large congregations. Under his ministry the church is enjoying great prosperit}^ The Church of the Incarnation was organized in 1885 as an offshoot from St. Stephen's Parish. For the first few months the society w^orshipped m Tem- plars' Hall on Market street. On the 25th of September the corner-stone of a new church on the corner of Broad and Estes streets was laid with impressive AMONd THE CHURCHES. ao ceremonies, IJishop Pad- dock and other leading clerg3-men assisting, and on the 2 1 St of the February following the congregation met for worship for the first time in the beautiful stone chapel. The work on the church will go forward as lapidly as possible. While the society were still wor- shipping as a mission, a call was extended to Rev. John L. Egbert of Vine- land, N. J., antl accepted by him. Though \et a CHAPEL OF THE INCARNATION. comparatively young^nan, Mr. Egbert had achieved a reputation as an energetic and etRcient worker. He is a native of Missouri, though most of his early life was spent in Kentucky. He completed his education at Kenyon College, in Ohio, and afterward studied law, being admitted to the bar in 1S70; but a year later he abandoned that pro- fession to prepare himself for the ministry, and graduatetl from the General Theological Seminary New York in 1874, and was ad- mitted to the priesthood in 1S75. From the time of his graduation until October, 1S76, he sei-ved as assistant minister of Christ Church Parish of Springfield, having spe- cial charge of the Church of the Good Shepherd, on the west bank of the river. From 1S76 to iSSr he was Rector of St. Peter's Parish at Bainbridge, Conn., and during that time the church was enlarged and beautified and greatly strength- ened in numbers. In the latter year he went to Vineland, N. J., where during the next four years he or- ganized a strong society, and se- cured the building and furnishing of a beautiful stone cliurch. He entered upon his work in Lynn with the same consecration and energy, and the results of his labors are already apparent. The Parish of the Incarnation has an ample field in the eastern section of the city, and a future full of promise. The first Catholic services were held in Lynn in the year 1S35, and there- KE\\ JOHN' I.. r.GBEKT. 100 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. after at intervals, in various private houses, until 184S. In that year Rev. Charles vSmith was appointed to the charge of Chelsea and Lvnn, who fitted up a small school-house near the Arcade for church pur- jDoses. He was succeed- ed in 1 85 1 by Rev. Patrick Strain, the pres- ent Rector of St. Mary's Chui-ch. In 1S54 the little church was en- ':irged, but in 1859 ^' \\ as burned, and for two years the services were held in Lyceum Hall, which stood on the site of Odd Fellows' block. St. Mary's Church was built in 1861, and was at that time the finest church structure in Lynn. The society have now a large and valu- able property, extend- ST. mart's church and schooi^. ing through from South Common to Tremont streets. St. Joseph's Church on Union street was begun in 1875, and has but lately been finished. It is a large and handsome gothic structure, costing upwards of $75,000. Rev. J. C. Harrington is pastor. The following table contains the churches in Lvnn in the order in Avhich they were organized : P^irst Church 1632 Friends' Church 1698 First M. E. Church 1791 St. Paul's M. E. Church 181 1 First Baptist Church 181 6 Second Congregational (Unitarian) Church 1822 Maple Street Methodist Society 1829 South Street i\I. E. Church 1830 First Univers.ilist Society 1833 St. Mary's Catholic Church 1S3:; Christian Church 18^=; Central Congrenational Church 1850 Washington Street Baptist Church .... 1852 Boston Street M. E. Church 1853 African M. E. Church 1856 Third Baptist Church (Wyoma) 1858 CJiestnut Street Church 1868 North Congregational Church 1870 PVeewill Baptist Church 1871 Trinity M. E. Church 1873 East or Fourth l^aptist Society 1874 St. Joseph's Catholic Church 1875 Church of the Incarnation, Episcopal . . 1885 St. Stephen's Episcopal 1836 Second Universalist Church 1836 Lynn has, accordingly, one church to each eighteen hundred inhabitants. The time has gone by when people were haled to court if they would not attend service m the church, and those who nodded a slcepv assent to sermons which they could not keep awake to hear were rudely awakened by a prod from the AMOX(i THE CHURCHES. 101 pole of the tithingniau. Nevertheless the churches in Lynn aflbrd ample accommodation for all who may desire to worship, and in the nine denomina- tions represented it would seem that all shades of religious belief might find agreeable surroundings. Most of the churches are situated on the " foyrc plaine" which lies in semi-circular form around the central cliff, and arc for the most part convenient to the principal centres of population. Nearly all have bells, the St. Stephen's tower containing a fine chime placed there within the year, and the mellow harmony of the vesper calls are still " borne on the evening winds across the criirson twilight," even as thev were carried indavs gone bv to the summer home of Longfellow at Nahant, calling into being the following beautiful lines : O curfew of the setting sun! O Bells of Lynn ! (J re([uiem of the dying day ! O Bells of Lynn 1 From the darlc belfries of yon cloud-cathedral wafted, Your sounds aerial seem to float, ( ) Bells of I,ynn ! J5orne on the evening wind across the crimson twilight, O'er land and sea they rise and fall, ( ) Bells of Lynn '. The fisherman in his boat, far out beyond the headland, Listens, ami leisurely rows ashore, ( > Bells of Lynn ! Over the shining sands the wandering cattle homeward Follow each other at your call, O Bells of Lynn ! The distant lighthouse hears, and with his flaming signal Answers you, passing the watchword on, O Bells of Lynn! And down the darkening coast run the tumultous surges, And clap their hands, and shout to you, O Bells of Lynn ! Till I'rom the shuddering sea, with your wihl incantations, Ye summon up tlie spectral moon, O Bells of Lynn ! And startled at the sight, like the wierd woman of Endor, Ye crv aloud, and then are still, O Bells of Lynn ! oWn. r all the places I have seen," said a Lynn man, lately returning from a European trip, ''there is none which is more beautifully situated or possesses more natural advantages as a place of residence than our own city." Makmg all allowances for the natural parti- ality of a person for the place of his birth, tlie sent'inent will Imd i icsponse m the heart of every one who has gained a full acquaintance with Lynn and her Surroundings. MAP OF I.YNX AS IT WAS FIFTY YEARS AGO. GLIMPSES OF TH1-: TOWX. 103 our people have wu as it was fifty years oe district " Thus far our attention has been devoted to liistorical matters and to manv things relating to the business and social life of tlie city. As we turn now from these to obtain some glimpses of those parts of the town where their homes, let us pause for a second look at the to ago when there was no distinctively business section antl the invaded almost every man's door-yard. Then every street was a residence street and many of the places now covered by busy factories or beautiful residences were cultivuted as farms or still unreclaimed from the rocks and bushes. In no way can a more vivid idea of the clianges wrought by fifty years be gained than by contrasting this plan of the modest town, with its less than fifty streets, with a map of the modern city with its five hundred and sixty-five streets, lanes and courts. It was along those streets that the Qiiakers were dragged at the cart's tail, and the witches hurried toward the keeping house until they could be trans- ferred to the jail at Salem or Boston. It was from that town that the minute men marched to the battles of Lexington and Bunker Hill, and there Moll Pitcher practiced her magic arts. There are but few relics of those times still remaining. Many of our readers will re- call the okl shed, shown in the initial to this chapter, which stood on the wharf at West Lynn, wiicn the oldest citizen now living was a boy. For many years it seemed to totter upon its aged supports, and in 1SS5 it finally collapsed. Waite's well on Maple street is one of the old landmarks and one can almost hear the creak of the sweep and hear the splash of the bucket, as — "Quick to the white pebbled bottom it fell; Then soon with the emblem of truth overflowing And dripping with coolness it rose from the well." The okl Johnson homestead, which stood on the site of Cit}^ Hall, was re- Washington street, imd itself in the march of prog- its new dress mtly modern ; ' blue tavern," Vv'AITE'S WELL. movetl t when it f wa}' of tb ress, and in looks suftici but the old THE BLUE TAVERN. which stood a little farther toward Franklin street, still retains its old form in its new location on Liberty street, where it does humble duty as a tenement. It j would be pleasant to go on scarchnig out these relics of 104 LYNN AND SURRCIUNDINGS. GLIMPSES OF THE TOWN. lOr, LOOKING DOWN MARKET STREET FROM CITY HALL SQUARE. a time gone by, but things of more living interest claim the attention. The City Hall tower offers a fine vantage ground from which to obtain a view m II _: —i THE ROLAND G. USHEK HOMESTEAD, CITY HALL SQUARE. 106 LYNX AND SURROUNDINGS. of West Lynn and the Common, and we get a better idea of the general appear- ance of the western part of the city from this point than from any other. In the .3; / u 'w^ llulllllUlllllllllllll |il«llllllllffil3.- SOLDIERS MONUMENT, CITY HALL SqUARE. eaidy days, before the railroad and the shoe machines overturned the old ways, the vicinity of the Common was about the busiest K^'^ , section of the town, with the Old Tunnel Meet- "^^SUS^ ^:. FROG POND ON THE COMMON. ing-House in the center of the Com- "^i^«i""-J'™i"!:i:i::'^' mon, and tlie Town House on South Common street, and banks, shoe shops and stores located here and there. The lower end of the Common, with its. . . pleasant walks and beautiful flowers, is a very attractive spot, and the western end, with its flashing fountain, roomy stand and broad campus, offers a cool and GLIMPSES OF TIIK TOWX. 107 pleasant place for band concerts, ^vith which the city entertains the people on pleasant summer evenings, and open-air meetings, which are frequently held ; markp:t sqliare, west lyxn. and here Young America gathers as one boy on Fourth of July evening to see the fireworks. The Soldiers' Monument in City Hall square was erected in 1S73, and dedica- ted on tlie 17th of November. The design was bv John A. Jackson, a native of _jrj£:;r.- -^^%-^^iN^ THK COMMON. FROM MARKET SQUARE. Maine, but resident of Florence, Italy, and the casting was executed in .Aiunich. The cost was $30,000. The monument is not as showy in design as are many of its class, but it is chaste and in good taste, and adapted to the place where it 108 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. stands. The homestead of Roland G. Usher, which faces the monument, is one of the last remaining of the older residences which once were numerous in this locality. Its neighbors on Market street and the opposite side of the square have been swept away by the tide of improvement. At the opposite end of the Common is Market square, which received its name before Central square was dreamed of as |^ ' ^f^ a business centre. At one time it was the centci h..^^ LOOKING UP MALL STREET. of consideral)le l)usiness, which has now mostly moved down town. In 1646 the General Court voted, " on the motion of the Deputies ofthe to vvne of Linne : disor- dered that there shal be once a weeke a Market kept there on every third day of the weeke, being their lecture day." Market square was then a part of the Common, but as the lecture was held at the church on vShepard street, it is likely that the gathering of the people for trading would be near by on the Common, and pos- sibly the modern name is a leg- end of the meetings of two hun- dred years ago. From the east end ofthe square we get a view up the Common which is sugges- ted in the preceding picture. Loolqng at the Common from whatever standpoint, it gives the impression of roominess and invites to freedom and rest, though latterly the "please keep off the grass " sign has put in its appearance. Looking up Mall from Boston street we get a pleasant glimpse of the street ilence of John T, Moulton on one of the oldest streets in the town. The land in breed's pond.' ' ^^^'^ vicinity was a part of the farm of Joseph Armitage, one of the earlier settlers of Lynn, and who led a checkered career as the landlord of the famous Anchor Tavern for many years GLIMPSKS OF THE TOWN. 109 afterward. Mall street leads us into Boston street, whieh is also one of the historic streets, and many pleasant residences on this old-time thorou.^lifire date back to the tune when history verges upon romance. Back of 15oston street are many pleasant short streets which run close up to the range of rocky hills which skirt'tlic RESIDKNCE OF JUDGE NEWHALL, WALNUT STREET. town. On the sides of these hills are many beautiful residences, and their elevated position not only places them beyond the dust and noise of the city, but affords a charming outlook over the roofs of their neighbors below. One of the most pictur- esque is the stone cottage of Judge James R. Newhall on Walnut street. The views from the piazzas of this charming place are among the finest in the city. Not far towai'd the west is Myrtle street, which merges Into Dungeon avenue, leading by Breed's Pond into the woods and on to Dungeon Rock, which we visited In an earlier chapter. Breed's Pond, which, if it were not for the dam, would scai'cely be a pond at all, is nevertheless one of the prettiest of the many 110 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. pictt_y little lakes which lie so numeious ai ound L} nn \nd our inteiest in it as tlit souice ot oui water sup- ply is consideiabl)^ > heightened In the scoie 01 moic ol \()unj^stt.rs ^^^ 'yt^^- \\ho each surnmei day lesoit to its shoics, not ah\ a\ s to fish But the w ater - :-=-="— - ^^ ,tii ^;^ Inch it furnishes the city is ENTRANCE TO PINE GROVE CEMETERY, abundant and reasonably pure. Indeed, the excellence of the water in and about Lynn early attracted the attention of the settlers, and William Wood, author of New England's Prospect, says : " It isfarr different from the waters of England, being not so sharp, but of a fatty sub- stance, and of a more jettie color ; it is thought there can be no better water in the world ; yet dare I not prefer it before goodbeere, as some have done ; but any man will choose it before bad beere, whey or buttermilk." He had doubtless tasted of some of the numerous springs which ^i ^-^ now leceive the added dignity of being lUcd mineral spiings. There are oui d 1} w ho not onl}^ agree \\ ith, but practice ^^ the docti me of the ''^*^'* ol'l histoiiin -^ A- <•;&•' THE GARDEN IN PINE GROVE CEMETERY. GLIMPSKS OF THE TOWN. Near the north end of Grove street is Lover one hundred and thirty-three feet in height ; and 1 two hundred and twenty- four feet high. From the summits of these elevations a beautiful prospect opens to the view, second only to that obtained from High Rock. Returning dow n Washington street, we p iss many pleasant residences embowered among the at the junction of and Western ave- straight course of winter, the own- friendly contests to lover's leap 111 T^eap, a lieautiful elevation U'a mile west is Pine Hill, 0' trees, and standing ^;- Washington street nue. we look down the where, in the crisp days ers of fast horses try titles in the music of jingling bells. Many of our younger citizens remember the time when they trooped over the Johnson pasture-fence to the circus-field in the days when Washington street existed not even in the dream of a real estate speculator. Now the view JOHN W. HEALEY 'S KESIDENCE, WASHINGTON ST. 112 LYNN AND SURROUNDIN(;S. down the street discovers a constant succession of beautiful residences, but very few vacant lots remaining, and these may not be so long, for houses spring up quickly in these days. CORNER OF WESTERN AVENUE AND WASHINGTON STREET. Highland Square is one of the pleasant places of Lynn and offers many advantages as a place of residence, not the least among which are the good air and the convenience to the business section of the city. Essex street, of which the square forms a part, was for many years the thoroughfare between VIEW DOWN WASHINGTON srRI.l.r. Lynn and Salem, and its devious direction points backward to the time when streets were only " roads " and were laid out for the convenience of the scattered commu- nity rather than by any system of squares and right angles. There are many pleas- ant residences on Highland Square, and when the city has arrived at the point GLIMPSES OF TIIK TOWN. qi;{ of a new High School building this locality will receive a sul^stantial ornament. At the upper side of the square we take the steps which lead up to the pleasant stone cottage of J. W. Hutchinson, which nestles at the very base of old High Rock. Mr. Jesse Hutchinson, one of tlie . ^ famous fomily of singers, built this cottage in 1847. ^^^ was one of the pioneers into the highlands, and the ^ j^. P"-'fty cottage with its picturescjue surroundings, and tiie interesting memories of the band of sweet singers — ]I1G11LA.\I) Sc^UARE. Jesse, Judson, John, Asa and Abbie, who in their dav ^. sang their way into the hearts of the northern peoj^le — which ;rr' cluster around it, render this to the stranger, one of the most interesting spots i Lynn. The house is now occupied by Mr. J. W. Hutchinson, the last sui RESIDENCE OF S. C. NEWHALL, HIGHLAND SQL:ARE. 114 viving- brother LYNX AND SURROUNDINGS. (.f th old time favorites. While so near we can not forbear taking one more view from the summit of the rock, breathing a thank offering, as we climb the stairs, to the Hutchinson who placed them there. The Highlands dis- tiict during the last ten years has been filling up rapidly, and is becoming one of the most desirable sections of the city for residence. Hon. James N. BuHum Breed w^ere among the first to undertake the work of opening up these lands, which has been rapidly pushed during the last few years. High Rock avenue w^is one of the first streets opened, and soon after High Rock street and Herbert street were built. The residence of A. B. Martin on High Rock avenue and the recently con)pleted house of Mr. Buffum on Herbert street are among the finest places in the city. Beacon Hill avenue, which sti'ikes boldly up over the cliff' next north of High Rock, is just now receiving a good deal of attention, and several fine houses have been erected near the summit during the past year. The residence of Hon. J. C. Ben- hUTCHlNSON COTTAGE. d Ml . Henry A. RESIDENCE OF A. B. MARTIN. nett, situatetl near the base of the cliffy has a roomy and homelike appearance and a substantial air, quite in contrast with many of the more modern designs in architec- GLnirSES OF THE TOWN. 115 116 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. ture. As the city continues to grow, much of the expansion must inevitably be upon the north and east sides. Ah-eady Glenmere and Wyoma have lost their former appearance of suburban villages, and become integral parts of the city. RESIDEXCE OF HON'. J. X. BUFFUM, HERBERT STREET. The eastern section of the town, while not so picturesque as that which has thus far had our attention, has the substantial and settled appearance which RESIDENCE OF HON, J. C. BENNETT, BEACON HILL AVE. comes with time. Nahant street, leading from Broad street to the beach was GLIMPSES OF THE TOWN 117 for many years the only public highway through that section. The In.han sa chems, (originally pn.nounccd " savvkum ") rulc.l on Sagamore hill, and ^vhat XAHANT STREET. on the other side of the street was not unliroken forest, was used hv the settlers as fn-ms. The march of improvement set in hereabouts scarcely a generation ago, and there are those now lixing who, wiien Ocean stieet was laid out, pre- dicted that it woukl never be needed. How far this prediction was from the truth can best be seen by a visit to this part of the citv. Almost everv a\:iil;ible I.OOKINC; DOWN' NKWIIALI. STREET. building spot has been improved, and each season sees some one or more of the older fashioned houses replaced by a handsome modern residence. The 118 LYNxM AND SURROUNDINGS. beautiful shade trees which adorn nearly all the streets In the older settled por- tions of Lynn add greatly to the attractiveness of the city. The grounds about most of the houses in this section are spacious and tastefully laid out, and contain an abundance of pear and other fruit trees, to which the soil hereabouts seems particularly well adapted. The desirability of this section as a place of residence lies not more in the general beauty and quietness which prevail, it being quite out of the paths of trade and travel, than in the fixed character of the population, a large proportion of the estates being owned by the occupants. Tiie nearness :M "^^^ to the beach has both its advantages and disadvantages. The murmurings of the waves upon the sands when old tudor street. ocean is in her pleasant moods, and the thunders of the billows upon the beach wlicn the storm king is abroad, are the every-day music — " each day hearing, yet GLIMrSKS OF Tin-: TOWN. 110 \vIik1 never learning the -rand majestic anthem of the ocean "—vet the evenin from the sea, in the hot cUn s of summer so dehghtfully cool and refreshin-^ is sometmies laden ^\ ith a chill and dampness which strikes to the marrow, unfdt in OCEAX STREET. those jDarts of the city further back from the water. jMan\- of the hest resi- dences in this section are to be found on Ocean street. These are nearly all of modern build. And those on the easterly side ha\e an outlook tlirectlv upon the water, and their grounds extend down to the beach. Passing d./wn Xahant street we suddenly find ourselves upon the beach at a point where the whole expanse from Red Rock to the rocks of Xahant presents itself advantageouslv to the view. There is no RESIDENCE OF EUGENE BARRY, XAHANT STREET. more beautiful bit of water scenery upon the whole New England coast than this. Manvhave likened this bav. King between Phillip's Point in Swampscott. and East LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. KKSIDKN'CE OF F. W. BREED, OCEAN STREET. Point Oil Nahant, to the Bay of Naples, lacking perhaps only the peculiar purplisli tint so characteristic of that fair haven. The beaches which surround this bay RESIDENCE OF JOHN P. WOODBURY, NAHANT STREET. GLIMPSES OK TIIF, 'J-OWX. 121 have for centuries been the favorite breathing places of the dweUers hereabouts Before the white men came the Indian youth held their sports there, a.ul doubtless the Indian maidens and their lovers found an evenin- stroll upon its smooth sands as pleasant as their successors in our own time. The beach, by reason of RKSIDEXCK OP^ J. N. SMITH, OCKAN STHKET. its extent, is thought to have given the name to this region the root of the name Saugus signifying great, or extended. To the Indians the l)each was a constant source of food supply, and to the early settlers a nc\cr-failing barometer. William Wood, the early writer before (pioted, sa\s of it: '' Vpon the South side of the Sandy Beach the sea beateth, which is a true prog- nostication to presage stormes and foule weather, and the breaking up of the Frost. For when a storme hath been or is likely to be, it will roare like Thun- der, being heard sixe miles ; and after stormes casts uj) great stores of great Chimmes which the Indians, taking out of their shels, cany home in baskets." The beach is now one of the most jDopular resorts in the \icinity, the beauty of the placeand the conveniences supplied by mine host of the Hotel Xahant attrac- ting visitors from all directions. Out on the point of Red Rock, which juts abruptly into the waters, having Deer Cove under its lea and Humphrey's Beach stretching out toward Swampscott on the other side, we get a still better view of the bay and its setting. This has always been a favorite resting spot with the j^eople of Lynn. In the foreground Egg Rock stands up out of the water seemingly twice its actual height. On either hand is the sandy beach, smooth and hard as a floor, with waves constantly dancing forward and backward — the same of which 122 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. Mrs. Sigouniey sang, mayhap sitting on this veiy spot, and with her words we close this chapter of Glimpses of Lynn. "The sand beach and the sea — Who can divine Their mystic intercourse, that day and night Surceaseth not? On comes the thundering surge, Lifting its mountain head, with menace stern To 'whelm the unresisting; but impelled In all the plenitude of kingly power To change its purpose of authority, Breaking its wand of might, doth hurry hack; And then, repenting, with new wrath return. Yet still that single silvery line abides Lonely, and fearless, and immutable. God gives it strength. So may He deign to grant The sand-line of our virtues power to cope With all temptation. When some secret snare Doth weave its meshes round our trembling souls. That in their frailty turn to Him alone. So may He give us strength. HOTEL NAHANT AND LYNN BEACH. f^^ l^^^- ^^ganiMaiwn§ . THE person who even casually studies the social developement of Lynn, though he goes no tarther or deeper than the pages of the Directory, will lie '^ struck by the large number of organizations of different kinds which ' have not only the official paraphernalia peculiar to such, but permanent places for holding stated meetings. Not reckoning the municipal and business organizations, there are nearly one hundred and fifty societies, whose range of activities cover nearly every phase of the social life of the city. The charitable institutions should perhaps first claim our attention. The Home for Aged Women is delightfully situated at the upper end of the common. on Market Square. The building, which has a deci- dedly classic appearance, was erected in 1832 for the Nahant Bank, which went the way of luisiiccessful enterprises, four years later. It was occupied b\- the " Home " in 1S76. This worthy charity is under the care of a board of trustees, of whom Mr. George K. Pevear is Presi- dent and Hon. \Vm. F. Johnson is Secretary. Mrs. Hattie K. Walsh is Matron. HATHOKNK HOUSE. 124 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. Of all our public institutions perhaps the Lynn Hospital appeals most di- rectly to the masses of our people. The hospital buildings are pleasantly situa- ted on Boston street, near Washington, upon what was formerly known as the Hawthorne estate. Strawberry brook flows by the door, and in front rise abrupt, woody hills, with here and there a porphyry ledge breaking through the soil. The surroundings are quiet and beautiful. In early times this quarter was known as Mansfield's end. The old mansion standing at the time the Hospital corporation purchased the property was long ago known as the Deacon Farring- ton house, and afterward it was occupied by Capt. John White of the United States Navy, and is said to have been the house in which Lafayette was entertained when lie visited Lynn. Subsequently it was occupied by Rev. Mr. Barlow, second minister of the Unitarian society, and later still by William ILiwthorne, from whom it took its name. The old house now forms a part of the hospital buildings, and with the exception of new sur- roundings and a new coat of paint retains its original aspect. The complete ii^- usefulness of the Hospital is beyond expression. Aside from the case of accident which are almost daily treated, there is the unspeakable comfort of knowing that in the time of greatest need there is a place where the best of care and skill is always at command, and the poorest patient in the Hospital receives as good care and attention as the wealthiest citizen can obtain. The institution is maintained entirely from gifts, and has thus far received a generous support. The Associated Charities was formed in iSS6 for the purpose of systematizing and regulating the general charitable work of the city. Through the investigations of the Society's agents it has been possible to distin- guish between the deserving poor and those who have made it their calling to impose upon the charitably inclined in the community. The Society's head- quarters are at Lee Hall, where the Registrar, Miss Hannah M. Todd is in con- stant attendance. Cases of destitution reported here, receive prompt attention. OKC.WI/.AriOXS. 125 The Children's Home, on Tower Hill, is a two story wooden l)uildin- erec- ted in iSSi, situated in one of the most sightly and beautiful spots in\ynn. The purpose of the home is to provide suitable nurture and education for cx- CHTLDREX S HOME AND CITY A I. MSI IOCS i: . posed young children, to save them from the stigma of work-house life, and oftentimes from the worse influences of degraded homes. Our view takes in both the Home and the Lynn Almshouse which is situated near ot it. The Massachusetts Society for the Promotion of Temperance and Inebriates' Home is pleasantly located at No. 19 New Ocean street, near the beach, and having an outlook over the bay. The name of the institution expresses its design, which is the care and treatment, with a view to cure, of those addicted MASSACHUSETTS TEMPERANCE HOME. to the drinking habit. Mr. Frank M. Flynn, who has for many years been prominent in reform temperance movements in Lynn, is superintendent. 126 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. The Grand Army of the Republic occupies a position of hirge influence and usefulness, having an active membership of one thousand and twenty-nine, and during the nineteen years of its existence fourteen hundred and ninety-two ex-soldiers and sailors have been connected with the organization. When it was first started it met with little favor. There were but ten charter members, and the first headquarters were in Washington Hall, now remodelled into the Boscobel Hotel. The Post was poor, and its progress during the first few years was slow. So poorly equipped was it that in the initiation of its first recruit, GEN. I,A\DEK POST 5 (;. A. K. IIEADC^UARTKKS. Capt. J. G. B. Adams, they had to go to a neighboring house to borrow a bible upon which to administer the obligation ; but perseverance and pluck won the dav ; the prejudices were overcome and the foundation laid for the wealthiest Post in the countrv. Post Five now owns the Coliseum on Summer street, erected in I SS2, at a cost for buildings and land of $30,000, and the beautiful new building on Andrew street, erected in 1SS6, at a cost of $37,000. ]?()tli these valuable estates are held bv the Gen. Lander Building Asso- ciation, free from all incumbrance. In addition to the cost of the build- ings the post has, since its organization, disbursed over $75,000 in charity. ORCANIZAllON.'- 127 Tlic Coliseum is tJie lar- ,uvsi pi,!, lie hall ill Lynn, and is nnich in (Ifniaiul loi- political and social .uatlicrin<4s. 'j'lic new '"lildino- on An.licw street is iitted up ^villl every Convenience \vhicli can add to the comfort of llie comrades. Post 5 takes its name from P>r\^^. ( Jen. I'^rcderick West Lan- der, a resident of Lyini, \\lio distinguislied him- self in the Vircr- ship of about twelve thousand. The discipline of the organization is very strict and they have by this means been able practically to dictate prices in many de- partments of labor. The Lasters' Union has held aloof from the Knights. Like the Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers, this organization seeks not only to secure good wages for its members but to educate them in the details of their craft, so they may become good workmen. This organization originated in L ^Lvnn m iiSj-y, ai there are now a])o fifty union; nd ut the Ki ^y cou n tr V, ^v i ih a membership of some ten thousand. The Lynn Union has )een very successful in the holding of fairs and other meth- ods of raising mon- and the}- are about to erect a hall for their use on An- drew street, n e a r Music Hall. The Shoe & Leather Association is an organization of the manufacturers to meet the demands of the labor um'ons. The result of tlicse difierent organiza- las been adopted, and a perma- nent committee from each organization now meets whenever any question arises requiring settlement between employers and then- workmen. Thus far the svstem has been found generally satisfactory. " The Young Men's Christian Association occupies the second floor ot its A TYPICAT. STRKKT SCENE. tions has been that the principle of arbitration 130 LYNX AND SURROUNDINGS. handsome building on tiie corner of Market and Liberty streets. The Association does a large and good work among young men ; Mr. George C. Herbert is Presi- dent, and Mr. John E. Gray is Gcncicd Secictan .V committee of the Association has the administciing of the 'I ohn m tcmpciance fund '1 he uppci stoiKs ot tins ])uihhns4 ue (jecujiied 1)} the ditkunt M isoiiic bothcs. Lee Hall stands on the site of the Old }3o\\ cm chuieh, and is the hci X H. Ai,ij;v Henry Wilson, as 1 the government, 140 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. Lynn Record, Sabbath School Contributor, Parsons Cooke, Essex County Washingtonian new name, and numerous other pubHcations. stance to the pubHc good deny themselves, the he planned in process of accomplishment. Hon. William F. Johnson has for many years been a prominent fig- ure in Lynn affairs. He comes of the old Qijaker stock and was born and reared on the Johnson estate at Nahant, in the old mansion now stand- ing opposite the Post Office, in whicli house his father, Caleb Johnson, was born and lived until he died at the ad- vanced age of 90 years. The subject of our sketch was sixth of a good old- fashioned family of ten children. His early life, with the exception of one year spent in European travel, was devoted to farming and grocery bus- iness. At various times since 1853 he has served the city in the several ca- pacities of assessor, alderman and may- or. His term in the latter office was in 1858, a time of great financial depres- The Puritan, then edited by Rev. , which was the Record under a At length, failing health necessita- ted a change and he sold out his printing establishment and engag- ed in real estate transactions, and has since held many important positions in connection with pri- vate and corporate interests. The success of Mr. Tolman may be attributed to three very common- place principles — abstention from foolish and expensive habits, unre- mitting industry, and stricthonesty in all transactions. He has also found opportunity for extensive travel both in this and foreign countries, and has taken a notable part in the work of temperance re- form. His gifts to this cause and other charities have been munifi- cent, and by the bestowal of the Tolman Fund to the Y. M. C. A., he has secured that which many who devote a portion of their sub- pleasure of seeing the work which HON. WM. F. JOHNSON. SOME LVXN PEOPLK. 141 ■sion, and his administration was marked for its economy in the management. .fcilv affairs, and its strict enforcement of tlie laws re;^nilatin,o- anuisemeiits. In 1S62 and 1863 he represented the Essex first cHstrict in the State Senate and in 1S64 was commissioned as vState Paymaster l>y (Governor Anchew. to reside in Wasli- ington, to pay the State bounty to soldiers that were credited t(^ >hissachusetts. Mr. Johnson has been identified with most of the lemix-rance movements and •charitable works of the city, and was an incorporator of the Home for A-~- — - Beede is a represen- tative man in a line of business which has during the past ten years attained much importance as collat- eral to our leading in- dustry. In his early life he learned every detail of the shoe- maker's art by hard work in the foctory, and from 1S65 to 1S72 he was engaged suc- cessfully in the manu- facture of shoes, when ill health compelled him to give up bus- iness for a season. In 1874 he began the manufacture and sale of shoe manufacturers' supplies, being one of the pioneers in this SOME LYNN rEOPLE li9 special branch, and his foctoiy on Union street is one of the most important concerns of its kind in New Enuland. Mr. lieede is also larj^elv interested' in real estate. He served in the Board of Aldermen in 1881 and i,S8->, and headed the citizens' ticket for mayor in 1884-5. Col. Gardiner Tnfts has been more widely and oenerally known perhaps, from the natnre of his public .service duriuL,^ and since the late war, than any other son of Lynn. He was born in this city July 3, 1828, and is a lineal de- scendant of Edmund In_L,-alls, tlie ilrst settler of Lynn ; received his education in our schools, and learned the trade of shoemakini;- ; subsequently that of shoe tool maker and wood turner, anil he was occupied in these industries until he entered the public service nearly twenty-six years a^o, in which he has since continue ' - rfj^^^^ftyv ^ much of his time to temperance work, attained the high degree of Gi\ind Worthy Patriarch in the Sons of Temperance. He was but 26 years of age at the time and was the youngest man ever chosen to that office. He has also been prominent in the Independent Order of Odd Fellows. He was chosen to repre- sent the Tenth Essex District in the General Court in 18S5, serving with HORACE A. ROBERTS. mucli Credit on the Committee on Public Charitable Institutions. He was re-elected in 1886. We are now at the end of our sight seeing in Lynn, having traced the progress of the city from the early settlement in the Saugus forest to the modern, thriving busy city, walked up and down her streets, viewed her nat- ural and artificial beauties and attractions, examined into the public and charitable institutions, visited her churches, and been introduced to some of her leading citizens representing nearly every walk of life. In our excursion, as was inevitable from the nature of it, very many things which it would have been both a pleasure and a profit to have seen have been passed by, but it is hoped that the casual acquaintance thus gained may prove pleasant and lead to a closer knowledge and broader appreciation of our goodly city. Thanks are due the reader for his kind and genial companionship thus far, and before the final parting we would invite him to a flying trip to the Surroundings of Lynn . -^ ynn m^voundingB, /CONSCIOUS of her age and dignity, Lynn sits proudly in her beautiful ^^ home by the sparkling bay, a mature and stately matron, with her five grown up daughters happily settled around her. Reading, settled by Lynn people in 1639, is the eldest of the family. Her original territory was four miles square, beautifully situated and possessing many natural advantages, but the inhabitants early lost the home feeling, and set up an establishment of their own. Lynnfield, for many years called " Lynn End," is the second child. The inhabitants of Lynn with their original S6S0 acres, feeling somewhat crowded, were granted '' six miles into the country," and an inland plantation was forthwith begun. This occurred soon after the settlement of the town. The Second Parish was set off in 1712, and the town was incorporated one hundred and two years after. A summer drive to Lynnfield takes one out through pleasant suburban Wyoma, along by numerous pleasant ponds and deep ravines on this side and on that, and shadowy woods, sweet with the smell of pine and juniper. Lynnfield Village is a pleasant place, with a good hotel, a few small manufactures, stores and other paraphernalia of a well-to-do country place. The farms wdiich lie about the village are fertile and w^ell tilled. A branch of the Boston and Maine Railroad gives quick communication with the busy woidd, and taken all in all this second of Lynn's daughters is well and comfortably settled in life. Saugus, called by the maiden name of the parent town, was set ofl' as the Third Parish, and attained to the dignity of a meetinghouse of her own in 1736, but remained under the maternal wing until 1S15, when she was incorporated 156 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. FRANKLIN SQUARE, EAST SAUGUS. as a town. The Saugus river — the Indian Abousett — and the marsh — the Rum- ney marsh of the early settlers — divide the tow^n into unequal parts, in each of which are many pleasant residences and fertile and well cultivated farms, and there are also manufactures of considerable importance. There are three pleas- ant villages in the town — East Saugus, Saugus Center, and Cliftondale — each with its peculiar attractions, and numerous pleasant spots which are sought out by picnic parties ; and the Franklin Park is a favorite place for the trials of LOOKING DOWN LINCOLN AVENUE, EAST SAUGUS. LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. equine speed and mettle. There are many points of Instoiical interest •., which may be named tlie old Iron Works, the lirst in the new workl • U, rates' Glen, the site of the Old Anchor Tavern, tor many years tlie chief'lio^ of the whole region ronnd al)out ; and on Lincoln avennc was the old P,; Tavern, also a f^ivoritc inn. The site is now occu]:)ied l)y the residence n F. Newhall, Esq., but the old buildint;- is still standing a litUe farther < Ballard street. The region round about Lynn abounds in beaut ifid drives. Good coi roads radiate from the city in all directions and in a very short time after le: \ i.'i: nong e Pi- ^lelrv .Hard ifW. lown uitry ivine HUNTERS CABIN, NEAR FLAX POND. Central square one may find himself where — " Kind nature shuffling in her loose undress, Lays bare her shady bosom," and if the tourist has been shut up for a season within city walls, he may echo the sentiment of the remaining lines of the stanza — " I can feel With all around me; I can hail the flowers That sprig earth's mantle; and yon quiet bin! That rides the stream is to me as a brother. The vulgar know not all the pockets Where nature stows away her loveliness." Sw^ampscott, the fourth of Lynn's fair daughters, sits dreamily by the sea, spreading her snowy skirts out on this side and on that even down to the salty rim of the ocean. The few picturesque old fish houses along the shore and the score of dories drawn up on the sands, with here and there a siene spread out to dry, are but faint reminders of the time when this was the most important fishing town on the New England coast. Now, however, the entire shore down ahnost to the Marblehead line has been captured by the summer resident, and the nuinerous tasteful cottages and beautiful villas which crown every eligible LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. SWAMPSCOTT. spot, in summer teem with gay and fashionable life, but in the winter present a formidable array of shuttered windows, the summer birds having flown back to LINCOLN HOUSE, SWAMPSCOTT. their winter homes. This is true however only of that portion of the town which lies along the shore. The inland section is very much like other towns, and were it not for the name could hardly be distinguished from the parent city. Nahant, the youngest of the family, was gifted both with beauty and wilful originality. While her sisters seem to have been content to settle down to quiet lives on the shore, this one appears to have tried to run away to sea, but found herself held back bv the shining white maternal apron stnng. The beauties both of form and 'situ- ation of these twin islets has ch.illeni xi the BAILEY'S HILL, NAHANT. LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. 159 idmiration of all who have conic tcj know them. The Indians gave her one of the prettiest names of their language, '^ Nahanteau." The legend relates that Thorwald, the sturdy Norse adventurer, the first white man who approached these shores, at once became enamored of her beauty, a.nd striking his spear into her virgin bosom exclaimed ^- Here it is beautiful, and here I would like to fix my dwelling." The legend goes on to state that an Indian arrow helped him to the attainment of his desire in an unexpected and unpleasant fashion, and that his bones now mingle with her soil in some unmarked spot. The early settlers seem to have been chiefly uttacted by its economical ad- vantages as a cow pasture, no fence being required except across the beach, until Edward Randolph became infotuated with its beauty, and undertook to wrest it from them. Then an idea of the value of the gift of the dusky Duke William suddenly dawned upon them, and they arose as one man to defend their common property. Thomas Dexter saw the possibilities of gain in the fair domain, and doubtless thought a suit of clothes a cheap enough price for it, but it proved otherwise, for instead of the Nahants he got only a trouble- some and unfortunate suit at law, and the only one who seems to have profited by the trade was the wily Indian who got the new suit. In later years the beautiful peninsula was again coveted, and this time gained, and the new pro- prietors guard the approaches to their summer homes so closely that the public Shag Rocks can gain a foothold only in isolated places— the Maolis Gardens on the north side and Bass Point on the south. The Nahantese cling to their acres with a grip that cash in hand has no power to unloose, and if ever Nahant becomes a popular resort the traditions of half a century will have to be reversed. The beauties of this spot have been sung by so many gifted tongues that we need do nothing more here than to point to the accompany hig chart. "If," saysN. P. Willis, "you can imagine a buried Titan lying along the length of a continent, with one arm stretched out into the midst of the sea, the spot to to which I would transport you, reader mine, would be, as it were, to the palm 160 LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. of the giant's hand."' Whitticr also addressed one of his earliest poetic produc- tions to this charming spot. Nahant, thy beach is beautiful I — A dim line through the tossing waves, Along whose verge the spectre gull Her thin and snowy plumage laves. — What time the summer's greenness lingers Within thy sunned and sheltered nooks, And the green vine with twining fingers Creeps up and down thy hanging rocks ! Around — the blue and level main- Above — a sunshine rich, as fell Brighi'ning of old, with golden rain, The isle Apollo loved so well. But fairer shores and brighter waters. Gazed on by purer, lovelier daughters, Beneath the light of kindlier skies, The wanderer to the furthest bound Of peopled earth hath never found Than thine — New PZnnjland's Paradise ! LYNN AND NAHANT. Nahant has always been a favorite resort for those of refined literary tastes ; there being something in its peaceful, quiet life and the character of its scenery which prompts genius to its best efforts. Longfellow constantly came hither for rest and inspiration. A part of "Hiawatha" was written here, and "The LYNN AND SURROUNDINGS. Ifil Bells of Lynn," and " The Ladder of St. Augustine " here found their birthplace, and many others of his lyrics in which the presence of the sea is felt by the reader, were also written here under its influence. In the Hood Cottage, Motlev begun his '' Dutch Republic ;" a little beyond stood the cottage where Prescott worked at " Ferdinand and IsabeUa," and " The Conquest of Mexico ;" on the point beyond, Agassiz produced his " Brazil ;" and Willis, Curtis, Mrs. vSigour- ney, and a host of lesser celebrities have sought and found its magnetic inspira- tion. And one of her own sons, Henry Cabot Lodge, has well nigh overturned many of the accepted conceptions of early colonial characters by his research and keen analysis. Longfellow and Prescott loved best the southern shore, but Agassiz chose the northern side. The admirably kept roads lead to where the most pleasing sea views are to be had. Notwithstanding the horse car is stopped at the town line, and the excur- sion steamer is warned offshore, if one can brave the jolting of a barge, or better still, command a private conveyance, the wondrous beauties of the ragged riven shores may be easily reached. It almost takes one's breath away to watch and almost feel the mighty rush and roar of the eternal surges among the resounding sides of these cliffs and caverns. The tawney rocks wear coats of grass-green velvet above the water line, and the nodding plumes of the sweet fern and col- umbine wave from the niches and hollows where they can gain a foothold. The sea gulls sail through the air over our heads or swoop upon their prey almost at our feet, and the white sails of the numerous water-craft pass and repass before our view. Midway between us and the Swampscott shore, rising sturdily above the waves which dash around it, stands Egg Rock, as fair in the sunlight as when the ardent youth sought to pluck from it the Floure of Souvenance for his Lady Alice who was seated, perchance, on the same promontory on which we are. And with this quiet scene before the view we bid farewell to the friends who have accompanied us thus far in our excursions in Lynn and Surroundings. V H 17 78 * ^ .0' ^..^ ^^,. JAN 78 "IfC"!*- N. MANCHESTER, ^•■•'' INDIANA 4m I f ■■%':% ''■■v.- A