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LIBRARY OE, CONGRESS. 
 
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 UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 
 
PRACTICAL CARVING 
 
 THOMAS J. MURREY 
 
 AUTHOR OF " FIFTY SOUPS," " FIFTY SALADS," " BREAKFAST 
 
 DAINTIES," "puddings AND DAINTY DESSERTS," "THE 
 
 BOOK OF ENTRIES," " COOKERY FOR INVALIDS," 
 
 " VALUABLE COOKING RECIPES," ETC. 
 
 OF TWENTY YEARS' EXPERIENCE IN CARVING 
 
 /f 
 
 (y,^ 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 FREDERICK A. STOKES 
 
 Successor to White. Stokes, & Allen 
 
 1887 
 
 ('Jul- J 
 

 ^7- 
 
 Copyright, 1887, 
 
 By FREDERICK A. STOKES, 
 
 Successor to White, Stokes, & Allen. 
 
 1 
 
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 1^1 
 
DEDICATION. 
 
 To 
 My Dear Friend 
 
 W. W. STICKNEY 
 
 (with the United-States Hotel t%venty-five years ago) 
 
 \ ©etiicate tftis OTorit, 
 
 /;/ token of appreciation of the many hours he 
 
 spent in instructing me in the 7ninute 
 
 details of carving. 
 
 THOMAS J. MURREY. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 From my earliest recollection, I was taught 
 to consider a thorough knowledge of the art of 
 carving an important part of my education ; and 
 the memories of my early struggles to master the 
 art are vividly before me. 
 
 The patience that was exhausted upon me, 
 while training my youthful hands to hold the 
 knife properly, was certainly not appreciated by 
 me at the time. 
 
 I could not see why it was important that 
 my thumb, instead of the forefinger, should be 
 placed on the back of the knife, when the latter 
 way seemed more easy. Neither did I realize 
 it to be an accomplishment to be able to carve 
 with the left hand equally as well as with the 
 right, 
 
 5 
 
6 PREFACE. 
 
 Now that I have arrived at a more mature 
 age, I see and appreciate the importance of 
 these things that seemed but trifles to me when 
 I was young. I had often heard my father say 
 that a young man's education was incomplete 
 without a knowledge of carving, and his sons 
 had every reason to believe he was serious in 
 what he said. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 THE CARVING-KNIFE . , 9 
 
 TO STAND OR SIT WHILE CARVING 11 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Roast Ribs of Beef. How to Hold 
 
 THE Knife 12 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 13 
 
 Tenderloin of Beef . . . 14 
 Chuck-rib Roast . . . .14 
 
 Miscellaneous Roasting Pieces . 14 
 Porter-house Steak . . . .14 
 
 Beef Tongue . . . . . 15 
 
 MUTTON AND LAMB. 
 
 Leg of Mutton 16 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton . . . 16 
 
 Saddle of Mutton . . . • 17 
 
 Saddle of Lamb . . . . 18 
 
 Leg of Lamb 18 
 
 Fore-quarter of Lamb . . . 19 
 
 Lamb's Tongue 19 
 
 7 
 
8 CONTENl'S. 
 
 VEAL. ^^'^'^ 
 
 Leg of Veal 20 
 
 Fillet of Veal . . . 20 
 Shoulder of Veal . . . .21 
 
 Loin of Veal 21 
 
 Calf's Tongue 22 
 
 PORK. 
 
 Sucking Pig 22 
 
 Leg of Pork 22 
 
 Ham 23 
 
 POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 Domestic Duck . . . . . 24 
 
 Goose 25 
 
 Canvas- BACK Duck . . . .26 
 
 Red-head Duck . . . . 27 
 
 Teal Duck 27 
 
 Spring Chicken. How to Select and 
 
 HOW TO Carve . . . . 27 
 
 Boiled Capon 28 
 
 Roast Turkey 29 
 
 Squab 30 
 
 English Pheasant . . . . 31 
 
 Prairie Chicken 31 
 
 FISH 32 
 
 SERVING SAUCES WITH MEATS . 33 
 
 REMARKS ON BONING MEAT , 33 
 
PRACTICAL CARVING. 
 
 THE CARVING-KNIFE. 
 
 In the stone age, when the savage tried his 
 best to carve with a dull stone knife, he doubtless 
 swore mentally; and while we have advanced 
 to a marked degree beyond the savage and his 
 food, and his implements for dividing that food, 
 his barbaric trait of mental swearing is still with 
 us, and will probably remain with us until the 
 end of time, or until our servants realize that 
 the carving-knife was not a tool originally in- 
 tended by the head of the family for dissecting 
 kindling-wood or peeling potatoes. 
 
 Is there any thing more exasperating to a 
 carver, at the aimouncement of dinner, than to 
 find that his pet knife, which had been sharpened 
 by an expert the day before, had that very day 
 been used by some one to cut wire or equally 
 hard substance ? 
 
 9 
 
lO KNIFE GRINDING. 
 
 Flashes of wit and humor may abound until 
 the moment of carving arrives, a«a the jolliest 
 family party that ever gathered around the ma- 
 hogany will be enveloped in gloom by the efforts 
 of a carver at work Afith a dull knife. 
 
 The grim, contorted face plainly indicates his 
 feelings of discomfort and mental suffering. To 
 you who are responsible for that dull knife, we 
 would say, do you imagine the carver enjoys his 
 task, or will enjoy his dinner? 
 
 Who does not think, with us, that a dull knife 
 is a thing of terror? It certainly breeds dys- 
 pei)sia ; it makes delicious viands unsavory ; and 
 many a family quarrel has emanated from it. 
 
 After the carving- tools have been used, they 
 should be thoroughly cleaned, and the knives 
 should be sharpened and well rubbed with a 
 woollen cloth on which a little olive oil has been 
 poured, when they should be wrapped in chamois 
 '-. and put away under lock and key. 
 
 Knife Grinding. — Hold the knife perfectly 
 flat against the stone, so that the blade evenly 
 traverses the stone from point to handle. In 
 no other way will the knife retain its edge. To 
 spoil the knife completely, put a rounding edge 
 on the knife. 
 
 To Steel the Knife. — The instructions 
 issued by Curley Brothers for sharpening a carv- 
 
TO STAND OR SIT WHILE CARVING. II 
 
 ing-knife are so complete, that we take the Hberty 
 of embodying them in this work. 
 
 " A carver must be held at an angle of twenty 
 to twent3'-five degrees on the steel. 
 
 " Be careful to have the angle same on both 
 sides, so as to sharpen instead of dulling the knife. 
 
 " Draw it on the steel from heel to point against 
 the edge ; only a very slight pressure required." 
 
 TO STAND OR SIT WHILE CARVING. 
 
 The height of chair and table has much to do 
 with the question, To stand or sit while carving. 
 
 It is exceedingly awkward to carve when 
 sitting in a low chair before a high table. 
 
 In this position one cannot divide the parts in 
 neat and appetizing forms. Small dishes such as 
 steaks, and all birds, from the cock-sparrow to 
 the princely canvas-back, are of course carved 
 sitting. 
 
 The carver's chair should be cushioned enough 
 to bring the elbow of the carver almost on a line 
 with the table. 
 
 It is a good rule to follow, that the seat of the 
 carver's chair should not be more than twelve 
 inches below the level of the table, as a lower 
 seat forces the arms into an unskilful position. 
 
12 ROAST RIBS OF BEEF. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Roast Ribs of Beef. How to hold the 
 Knife. — There are two ways of carving roast 
 beef, and the rules will equally apply to the rib 
 roast or the sirloin roast. 
 
 Fhst, Place the ribs on the platter with the 
 thickest part towards you, and with the crisp, 
 brown, fat surface up ; and trim off all burnt 
 pieces, and all the small pieces of backbone 
 overlooked by the dealer. Insert the fork in 
 the centre of the joint, midway between the 
 ends and right and left sides j cut off two slices 
 from the right-hand side, and reserve them for 
 those who desire " well-done " beef. Now run 
 the point of the knife along the whole length 
 of the rib, parallel with it, and immediately next 
 to it, and make a cut an inch deep over the 
 rib. Hold the knife gracefully, but firmly, and 
 with thumb extended over the back of the knife, 
 instead of the forefinger, and cut thin slices down 
 to the bone, when they will fall on the platter 
 in neat, whole slices. 
 
 With the finger extended over the back of the 
 knife, you do not have the same control over 
 the knife as when the thumb is extended ; and 
 
SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 1 3 
 
 you cannot, therefore, cut a slice that will be 
 of equal thickness throughout. When carving 
 small pieces of meat, game, etc., this rule is not 
 imperative. 
 
 Second, Place the meat on the platter, as de- 
 scribed in the foregoing, and trim it ; turn it on 
 end, with the thickest part towards you, and the 
 crisp, brown skin, or rather fat, to your right. 
 Insert the fork between the ribs, which are now 
 to the left, and carve towards the left. The 
 object gained in this mode of carving is that 
 the juices remain in the meat instead of running 
 out and on to the platter ; and in this way the 
 slices contain their full quota of juice, and are 
 therefore more desirable. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef. — This joint of beef may 
 be placed on the platter after the modes de- 
 scribed in "roast beef." The thickest end is 
 placed towards you, and the black and burnt 
 outside neatly trimmed. Then run the point 
 of the knife along the flat bone at the right, and 
 cut in about an inch deep ; then cut slices from 
 the right side. Should the flank be too large, 
 it is best and more economical to cut it off in 
 one piece. The tenderloin, when not intended 
 to be served cold, should be cut out, and each 
 guest receive a small slice of it in addition to 
 the sirloin. They appreciate tenderloin, and 
 your servants might not. 
 
14 TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. 
 
 Tenderloin of Beef. — Request the dealer 
 to remove the thin membraneous sack envelop- 
 ing the meat, and either lard the latter by the aid 
 of a larding needle, or cover it with a long thin 
 piece of larding pork. When cooked, place it 
 on the platter, and carve across the loin, begin- 
 ning at the thickest end, which should be to the 
 right. The slices should be about twice as thick 
 as slices of roast beef. A good gravy or sauce 
 should accompany tenderloin, as it is a some- 
 what dry meat, having but little flavor of its own, 
 tenderness being its only recommendation. 
 
 Chuck-rib Roast. — Notwithstanding the 
 fact that this piece of beef is much cheaper than 
 other rib cuts, it is usually avoided by house- 
 keepers, who find it troublesome and unsatis- 
 factory to carve. Remove the blade bone 
 before roasting. After roasting, cut the piece 
 of shoulder meat free from the thick, juicy part, 
 place it on a separate plate, and carve it across 
 the grain ; serve a slice of it with each slice of the 
 choice part ; and, by pouring over it a little of 
 the *' dish gravy," it becomes quite presentable. 
 
 Miscellaneous Roasting Pieces of 
 Beef, such as the rump, aitchbone, round, and 
 rolled meat, should be car\'ed across the grain. 
 
 Porter-house Steak. — Trim off all sur- 
 plus fat, which is apt to burn while cooking, and 
 
BEEF TONGUE. 1^ 
 
 make an unnecessary amount of smoke. Ex- 
 amine the thickest end, and carefully remove 
 minute particles of bone which may adhere to the 
 steak and produce inflammation of the intestines, 
 when swallowed. Do not remove the bone which 
 separates the sirloin from the tenderloin, as it 
 keeps the steak in shape ; after broiling the steak, 
 add to it a walnut of the best table butter, salt, 
 and white pepper ; place it on the table, and sepa- 
 rate both pieces of meat from the bone. Divide 
 the tenderloin into as many pieces as there are 
 guests. Cut the sirloin into strips an inch and 
 a half wide, and across the grain, and serve to 
 each guest a piece of each. 
 
 Beef Tongue. — From an economical point 
 of view, it is best to serve the tip of the tongue 
 first, as it will dry up quickly and become in- 
 digestible if allowed to stand a few days. Trim 
 off the ragged, thick end, and remove the httle 
 bones found therein ; cut a two-inch piece from 
 the tip of the tongue, and slice it as thin as 
 possible. 
 
1 6 LEG O? MUTTON. 
 
 MUTTON AND LAMB. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. — The leading silversmiths 
 make a shank-holder which is more useful to 
 the carver of a leg of mutton than the fork ; and, 
 when one of these is not at hand, white paper 
 wrapped around the bone may be substituted. 
 Cut from outer side of the leg of mutton, and 
 lengthwise of the leg, a good-sized slice ; this 
 prevents the leg from moving about the dish 
 whenever touched, and brings the inner or thick- 
 est part of the mutton conveniently before the 
 carver. Hold the shank firmly, and cut into 
 the centre of the leg to the bone. The first 
 two slices should be slightly wedge-shaped, and 
 should be served to those who really appreciate 
 the " Pope's eye " of mutton. SHce from the 
 thickest part before carving from the lower part, 
 and with each slice a thin slice of fat should be 
 served. 
 
 The wise carver serves the toothsome bit 
 known as the knuckle to himself. We think he 
 deserves this nugget of sweetness. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton. — The blade is a 
 "bone of contention" to the beginner in carv- 
 ing. Its mission seems to be the trying of one's 
 
SADDLE OF IMUTTON. 1 7 
 
 patience, and the destruction of the carver's 
 appetite. I advise my readers, who cannot suc- 
 cessfully carve this joint, to ask the butcher to 
 give them a few lessons in boning it ; after which 
 they will have little trouble to carve it, knowing 
 the location of the bones. Turn the shoulder 
 on its edge, with the outside or upper part to- 
 wards you, and cut slices from the top edge ; 
 the first slices which are cut from the top are 
 nearly all fat, and are placed one side, and 
 pieces of them served with the lean. Now cut 
 slices from the part above the knuckle, and 
 down to it, until the bones are exposed. Then 
 place the joint flat on the dish, and slice from 
 both sides of the blade-bone ridge ; then remove 
 the blade-bone, and cut the remainder of the 
 joint across the grain. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. — Trim off all surplus 
 flank and fat, as it is only in the carver's way, 
 and seldom, if ever, eaten by the guests. Press 
 the sides well in, and wind a string around the 
 joint, to hold it in good form. After roasting, 
 place it on the table, with the tail end to the left. 
 
 As to how the joint should be carved, is a 
 question decided by the number of guests and 
 the host's idea of economy. The economical 
 host will carve thus : Make a long deep cut 
 parallel with the backbone, and cut away one 
 
1 8 SADDLE OF LAMB. 
 
 side of the loin in one whole piece, but let it 
 remain in place, and cut slices across the grain, 
 beginning at the right. Carve the other side of 
 the loin in the same manner. If the tenderloin 
 is wanted, turn the joint, and cut it out entire. 
 
 When the question of economy " has nothing 
 to do with the case," the mode of carving is as 
 follows : Make a deep cut the whole length, 
 and parallel with the backbone, and cut long, 
 even one-eighth-inch slices with the grain ; then 
 divide each slice into pieces not over five inches 
 long. The carving must be done quickly, as 
 the fat cools rapidly, in which condition it cloys 
 on the palate. 
 
 Saddle of Lamb. — This joint is the choi- 
 cest of spring meats. It comes to us at a season 
 of the year when game of all kinds is in poor 
 condition (even if allowed to be sold), and for 
 private dinner parties we know of no dish that 
 equals it. The rules for carving it are the same 
 as those for carving the loin of mutton. 
 
 Leg of Lamb. — By this term we mean a 
 leg having the loin attached, and called a hind- 
 quarter, which is the cut generally sold in New 
 York. When the family is small, cut off the 
 loin and use it for chops, and roast the leg, which 
 is carved much the same as a leg of mutton. 
 It being very tender, one part of it is no more 
 
FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 1 9 
 
 choice than another; and the only care to be 
 exercised is to keep in mind that cold lamb is 
 the daintiest of cold meats. The joint should 
 therefore be carved in as neat a manner as 
 possible, to have a presentable cold joint for the 
 following meal. 
 
 Fore-Quarter of Lamb. — From the fore- 
 quarter of lamb only do we obtain those delight- 
 ful little chops, and a few of them should in- 
 variably be cut from the joint before it is roasted. 
 The breast, or brisket, is another part of the 
 joint from which an excellent dish is made. 
 
 After roasting, place the joint on the platter, 
 and with the breast towards you. The first cut 
 should be the removal of the shoulder, with the 
 blade-bone attached ; and each guest should 
 receive a dainty rib, a piece of the brisket, or, if 
 preferred, a shoe from the shoulder. 
 
 Lamb's Tongue. — These tidbits are in- 
 variably served whole ; but they look more 
 appetizing when cut in two lengiliwise, and each 
 half temptingly arranged on a crisp leaf of 
 lettuce, with quarters of lemon on the sides 
 of the dish. 
 
30 LEG OF VE.AL. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 Leg of Veal. — Aside from the excellent 
 soups and sauces made from veal, the toothsome 
 kidney, delicious sweetbreads, and the head, 
 Americans are not, as a class, fond of veal ; and 
 a whole leg of veal is seldom seen upon their 
 tables. It is a profitable joint, however, for 
 large families, and from it may be cut the cutlets 
 for the cooking of which the Germans hold the 
 secret. After the leg is cooked, delightful 
 croquettes may be made from that which is left 
 after dinner. The carving of a leg of veal is a 
 simple matter, after the hip-bone has been 
 removed, which should be done before the leg 
 is cooked. Place the leg on a large platter, 
 the thicker end to the right, and the shank to the 
 left. Carve slices from the thickest side of 
 the leg-bone first, and then from the other side, 
 to keep the face of the joint as even as possible. 
 
 I have seen carvers carve this joint the same 
 as recommended for the carving of a leg of 
 mutton ; but too much waste was the usual 
 result. 
 
 Fillet of Veal is a long strip of veal cut 
 from the leg. It is the best part of the leg, in 
 
SHOULDER OF VEAL. 21 
 
 fact. This is larded with either bacon or salt 
 pork, and cooked and served the same as fillet 
 of beef. To carve, place the thickest end to 
 the right, and cut across the grain. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal. — This joint being much 
 larger than a shoulder of mutton, I have found 
 it more convenient to cut off the fore-leg and 
 the blade from the ribs, which, if the breast or 
 brisket is not removed, will be too long. They 
 should be chopped in two before being cooked. 
 
 When the butcher neglects to separate the 
 ribs with the cleaver, cut the meat clean from 
 the bone, and save the bones for soup meat. If 
 instinct will not tell the carver which way to 
 carve the meat after it is cut from the bone, 
 books cannot. 
 
 Loin of Veal. — A loin of veal is that part 
 of the animal between the hip-bone and ribs. 
 It covers the tenderloin and kidneys, and does 
 not have ribs as declared in a recent publica- 
 tion. 
 
 To carve, place the joint with the thickest 
 part towards you. Make one long cut along the 
 backbone, separate meat from bone entirely, 
 and send the bone from the table. Carve the 
 meat across the grain, from flank to loin. 
 
 A small loin of veal should have the back- 
 bone separated into three-quarter-inch pieces. 
 
CALF S TONGUE. 
 
 When carved, a piece of bone will be attached 
 to each piece of meat. 
 
 Calf's Tongue, either fresh or pickled, 
 should be cut in three pieces, lengthwise. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 Sucking Pig. — This is one of the easiest 
 dishes to carve ; and yet, out of two hundred 
 gentlemen who were on a picnic, but one of 
 them felt competent to carve a roast pig. Send 
 the pig to table whole, with the head to the 
 right-hand, and tail to the left-hand side. First 
 cut off the head, and split it in two. Split the 
 body down the back, and place the parts on 
 the dish, crackling side up. 
 
 Cut off the fore-legs, with blade attached ; 
 next cut off the hind-quarters, and divide the 
 ribs, arranging the meat as neatly as possible on 
 the dish. Serve a little stuffing to each guest. 
 
 A dish of small baked apples is more present- 
 able than apple sauce. 
 
 Leg of Pork. — This is the only leg of a 
 domestic animal which I think is improved by 
 boning and stuffing. 
 
 Select a leg weighing not over five pounds, 
 stuff it, and score the rind in diamonds ; place it 
 
TO CARVE A HAM. 23 
 
 in a pan, and dredge it with salt ; place a papei 
 over it to prevent the crackling from burning ; 
 let this remain for half an hour, then remove, 
 and cook the joint for one and a half hours 
 longer in a not too hot oven. 
 
 One word to those who advocate basting this 
 joint. When the fire is too hot, the rind is 
 very apt to burn, and then it may be slightly 
 basted ; but otherwise do not baste it, if you 
 love crisp crackling. Should the joint receive 
 the amount of basting recommended by some 
 writers, a gummy rind will be the result, which 
 nothing short of the stomach of an ostrich could 
 digest. 
 
 To carve a Ham. — Much depends on how 
 the ham is to be used. A family desiring fried 
 or broiled ham should split the ham lengthwise, 
 and then cut thin, even slices across the grain. 
 The half with the bone in it may be boiled or 
 baked, if the family is a small one. When a 
 whole ham appears on the table, the cook should 
 see to it that its appearance is improved as much 
 as possible. It should be neatly trimmed round 
 the edges, and the fat should be free from rust. 
 The rind, if left on, should be scalloped at the 
 broad end in a neat manner. To carve a whole 
 ham, make an incision in the thickest part of 
 the ham down to the bone, and work towards 
 
24 THE DOMESTIC DUCK. 
 
 the large end. The knife used for carving a 
 ham should be very thin and very sharp, or the 
 shces will be uneven, — a very objectionable 
 feature. 
 
 POULTRY AND "GAME. 
 
 The Domestic Duck. — The novice in 
 carving quickly discovers that the domestic duck 
 is the most exasperating fowl he has to contend 
 with. 
 
 Twist the wings under the duck, and truss the 
 legs close to the body and under the vent. In 
 this way they are out of the way. 
 
 After roasting, place it on the platter, with the 
 tail towards you, and the head from you. 
 
 The usual instructions are to " insert the fork 
 firmly across the ridge of the breast ;" but, when 
 this is done, the tines make two unsightly grooves 
 in four slices of the best part of the duck (two 
 on each side of the ridge). 
 
 The author finds it easier to insert the fork in 
 the left side, close down to the backbone, the 
 ends of the tines penetrating the back to secure 
 a firm hold. 
 
 First, cut three thin slices from the right side 
 of the breast, holding the knife almost flat 
 against the breast. Now cut off the wing, which 
 
TO CARVE A GOOSE. 25 
 
 is only in the way, and contains "poor pickin's." 
 Continue carving the breast until the wish-bone 
 prevents further progress ; then carve the other 
 side in the same manner. The carver may 
 change the position of the fork if he desires, 
 but old carvers do not do so. After carving the 
 breast, and having removed the wings, separate 
 the wish-bone, or merry-thought, from the 
 breast-bone ; free it from the shoulders, which 
 is a somewhat troublesome operation for begin- 
 ners. The legs may be removed, if there is not 
 breast enough for all ; but they are not a 
 particularly dainty cut, and most carvers leave 
 them for the servants. 
 
 The best rule for the inexperienced carver to 
 follow is to carve the breast in the best manner 
 possible, and omit carving or trying to separate 
 the joints, as there is but little to be gained. 
 
 To carve a Goose. — Much of the fore- 
 going instructions for carving a duck apply to 
 the goose. The breast is the choice part, and 
 the joints are difficult to find and separate. 
 
 Cut the slices from the breast quite thin, 
 holding the knife quite flat against the bird, as 
 otherwise one is very apt to cut uneven slices. 
 
 The stuffing is so thoroughly soaked with 
 goose grease, that it should not be served to any 
 one but " day-laborers." 
 
26 TO CARVE A CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 
 
 To carve a Canvas-back Duck. — Half 
 a duck is considered a portion, and each guest 
 is supposed to receive half of the plump, juicy 
 flesh of the breast. This is the rule at banquets 
 and at club dinners. 
 
 For private families, however, the author 
 recommends that the breast be divided into four 
 pieces, as otherwise the dinner would be too 
 expensive for the average household. 
 
 To carve, place the duck on the platter, breast 
 up, and head from you. Insert the fork through 
 the centre of the wish-bone, or merry-thought ; 
 press firmly on the fork, which inclines slightly 
 from you, so that the points of the fork are 
 firmly imbedded in the back. 
 
 The position of the hand on the fork is the 
 reverse of the ordinary manner of holding it; 
 that is, the thumb extends towards the end of 
 the handle. In this way a very firm grip is 
 obtained, and the fork is out of the way of the 
 knife. If the fork pierces the centre of the breast, 
 it prevents the knife from working close to the 
 breast-bone ridge, where lies a most toothsome 
 morsel. Make the first cut along the right-hand 
 side of the ridge, keeping very close to it, and 
 cut down to the flat breast-bone ; follow this, 
 and free the meat from the lower part of the 
 breast, and work up to the shoulder, and around 
 
RED-HEAD DUCK. 
 
 27 
 
 that side of the wish-bone. Turn the meat over 
 with the knife, exposing the shoulder joint ; 
 separate it here, and serve. While this may 
 appear complicated to some, it is but the work 
 of a moment. Carve the left side in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Red-head Duck. — Many claim there is 
 but a slight difference between this duck and 
 the foregoing, and that it is almost impossible to 
 discover this difference. 
 
 Aside from the difference in flavor of the 
 flesh, and shape and color of head and bill, there 
 is a vast difference between these birds ; and the 
 close observing carver cannot be deceived. The 
 red-head is carved, however, in the same manner 
 as the canvas-back. 
 
 Teal Duck. — Select a blue-wing instead of 
 a green-wing teal. This duck should be split in 
 two lengthwise before it is sent to table. 
 
 Spring Chicken. — To know when a broiler 
 is fat and juicy, one should examine the back- 
 bone. The greater the amount of fat along the 
 vertebrae, the fatter will be the chicken in all 
 other parts of the body. Should the wattles and 
 comb look dull, dingy, or of a leaden color, the 
 bird should be rejected, as sickness is thereby 
 indicated. A roasted chicken is placed on 
 table with the head from you j the first cut is a 
 
28 BOILED CAPON. 
 
 slight one on the right breast down to the wing ; 
 and, without lifting the knife, the latter is re- 
 moved. Next the leg is cut off. Third, cut 
 away the wing and leg of left side. Fourth, 
 cut the breast in two by separating it from the 
 back ; turn the breast, and spHt it in two from 
 the inside. 
 
 A large chicken is carved much the same as a 
 turkey or capon, which see. 
 
 Boiled Capon. — A capon is at its best 
 boiled ; but, as with nearly all boiled fowls, a very 
 sharp knife is necessary in carving the breast. 
 A dull knife will tear the flesh, and produce un- 
 sightly slices. 
 
 Truss the fowl with twine instead of skewers, 
 and, when cooked, place it on the platter, tail 
 towards you, and head from you. 
 
 Insert the fork well forward in the breast, and 
 cut away the strings, which should have been 
 removed before the bird was sent to table. 
 
 First, cut a very thin slice from the right-hand 
 side of the breast, down to, and including, the 
 wing-bone. 
 
 Second and third, cut the skin on both sides 
 of the second joint ; press the knife gently out- 
 ward, and you will quickly discover where the 
 joint is attached to the back ; separate them. 
 Now take another fork (leaving the first fork in 
 
ROAST TURKEY. 29 
 
 the breast), and divide the drum-stick from the 
 second joint while it is in hand. Cut the second 
 joint in two lengthwise. 
 
 Next, cut neat, full-sized slices from the breast 
 until the knife is obstructed by the wish-bone, 
 which separate from the breast-bone and right 
 shoulder only ; for, should it be cut completely 
 off, the slices of breast on the left-hand side 
 would be smaller than they should be. Gently 
 draw the bird over on its left side, and with one 
 quick, sharp stroke with the knife, cut part way 
 through the right centre of the back. Cut 
 from the Pope's nose along the back, up to 
 this cut, to procure the side bone. The left 
 side is carved in the same manner as herein 
 described. 
 
 Roast Turkey. — Truss the bird with twine 
 instead of skewers ; place the cooked bird, 
 with the head from you, on a large platter. 
 Have ready one small and one large knife, 
 one small and one large fork. Insert the 
 large fork through the centre of the breast, 
 the tines astraddle of the ridge. Cut away the 
 twine, and cut two thin slices of white meat 
 from the breast down to the shoulder. Now 
 divide the wing from the shoulder, which, if done 
 before cutting the two slices, that part of the 
 fowl and the upper ends of the slices will be 
 
30 SQUAB. 
 
 ragged. The expert will next divide the drum- 
 stick from the second joint; but the beginner 
 should cut above the second joint down towards 
 the back, then cut on the lower side, press the 
 joint gently outward with the knife, and with 
 the point of the knife neatly, and seemingly with- 
 out effort, divide the joints. 
 
 Now use the small knife and fork to separate 
 the drum-stick and second joint, and also to 
 divide the latter while in hand. Slice off the 
 breast in wide, long, and not too thin slices. 
 Cut off the Pope's nose, and the side bone, as 
 described in article on capon. The "oysters" 
 on the back belong with the side bones, and 
 should not be detached from them. The wish- 
 bone should be separated from the breast-bone 
 and shoulder ; and a quick stroke will separate 
 the collar-bone from the breast; another will 
 give you the shoulder blade, around which is 
 fair "picking." The left side is carved the same 
 as the right side, and it is considered quite an 
 accomplishment to be able to carve with the left 
 hand as well as the right. 
 
 Squab. — When a dinner consists of many 
 courses, and guests are surfeited, a roasted 
 squab, or even a broiled squab, may be split in 
 two ; but, under all ordinary circumstances, each 
 guest should receive a whole bird. 
 
ENGLISH PHFASANTS. 3 I 
 
 English Pheasants. — These birds are 
 quite plentiful, but dear during winter, and are 
 quite frequently met with at private dinners. 
 
 Owing to the long sea voyage, they are quite 
 strongly flavored, or rather gamey, by the time 
 they reach our tables ; and we advise that only 
 the breast be served. Each side of the breast 
 may be divided into two slices. 
 
 The legs and thighs should only be served to 
 those who advocate " high game." 
 
 Prairie Chicken. — Lard the breast neatly 
 with a larding needle, or place a thin slice of 
 larding pork over the breast, and secure it when 
 trussing the bird. When roasted, remove the 
 twine, insert the fork on the left-hand side, and 
 place the bird with its head from you. Cut both 
 legs from the body; and, if intended for two 
 persons, carve the breast from the right side in 
 one whole piece by cutting close to the ridge 
 first, then slipping the knife along the breast- 
 bone down to the shoulder, and removing the 
 wing at the same time. Carve the left in 
 the same manner. 
 
32 FISH. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 The flounder, the Enghsh sole, and the small 
 chicken halibut are carved thus : Divide the 
 fish lengthwise down to the bone, run the fish- 
 knife along the sides from head to tail ; then 
 divide each half in three-inch pieces if the fish 
 is a thin one, and two-inch pieces if a thick one. 
 
 Remove the bone as soon as exposed, and 
 divide the under side in the same manner. 
 
 A shoulder of cod, or a piece of salmon, is 
 served best if the fish is divided, and the upper 
 piece placed on the dish, then divided into por- 
 tions. The bone is then removed from the 
 lower piece, and it is divided into portions. 
 
 To divide the toj) piece into portions, as is 
 usually done, we find, that, no matter how care- 
 ful in serving, the lower part of the fish is 
 bruised. 
 
SERVING SAUCES WITH MEATS. 33 
 
 SERVING SAUCES WITH MEATS. 
 
 Do not pour a sauce over a portion of meat 
 unless you have some special object in view; 
 for instance, should you find a slice of roast beef 
 too rare, pour the hot gravy over it, and it will 
 look " medium " done. If the beef is very dry, 
 as is apt to be the case with frozen meats, pour 
 a litde of the sauce or gravy on the dish first, 
 and then add the meat. It will look juicy, and 
 the gravy on the dish will look as though it had 
 run out of the meat. 
 
 When boiled mutton is too rare or too well 
 done, pour the sauce over the meat, and then 
 strew over it a few capers. 
 
 When the meat is just as ordered, either send 
 the sauce to table in a boat, or serve it on one 
 side of the meat. 
 
 REMARKS ON BONING MEAT. 
 
 Many writers recommend the removal of all 
 bone before cooking the meat. They say " it 
 facilitates carving. ' ' Perhaps it does ; but " boned 
 meat" does not possess the same deUcious 
 flavor as meat cooked with the bone. 
 
COOKERY BOOKS. 
 
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 Continental Hotels Philadelphia^ and other leading hotels. 
 
 FIFTY SOUPS. 
 
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 FIFTY SALADS. 
 
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 BREAKFAST DAINTIES. 
 
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 PUDDINGS AND DAINTY DESSERTS. 
 
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 THE BOOK OF ENTRIES. 
 
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 Covers in colors, with original design, i67no, boards, 50 cts. 
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 Mr. Murrey's other volum.es are in larger size : 
 VALUABLE COOKING RECIPES, cloth, 75 cts. 
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 Any cf these hooks can be had of your bookseller, or will be 
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 FREDERICK A. STOKES. PUBLISHER, 
 
 SuccESscp. TO Y/hite, Stokes, & Allen, 
 
 182 Fifth Avenue, New York City. 
 
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