■ill Book ■ n 4- S i ( o COPYRIGHT DEPOSfE THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK The Pure Food Cook Book The Good Housekeeping Recipes Just How to Buy — Just How to Cook Edited by MILDRED MADDOCKS Associate Editor of Good Housekeeping Magazine Editor of the "Family Cook Book"; ** Every Day Dishes"; " Brosia Meal Cook Book" ■ ? ■ I With an Introduction and Notes on Food and Food Values by HARVEY W. WILEY, M.D. Over 70 Illustrations HEARST'S INTERNATIONAL LIBRARY CO. NEW YORK 1914 Copyright, 1Q14, by Hearst's International Library Co., Inc. TX7^5 All rights reserved, includmg the trans- lation into foreign languages, including the Scandinavian. SEP 30 1914 CI,A379817 CONTENTS PAGE Good Cooking. By H. W. Wiley, M.D. . 3 1 Just How to Plan the Menus ... 9 2 Spring Menus .14 3 Summer Menus 28 4 Autumn Menus •41 5 Winter Menus 56 6 Bread 71 7 Just How to Make Bread 75 8 Just How to Make Breakfast Breads . . 81 9 Rice . . . ^ 95 10 Just How to Cook Rice 97 11 Soups iii 12 Just How to Make Soups 113 13 Eggs 123 14 Just How to Preserve Eggs .... 125 15 Just How to Cook Eggs 128 16 Fish 145 17 Just How to Cook Fish 147 18 Poultry 171 19 Just How to Buy and Cook Poultry . . 173 20 Meat 185 21 Just How to Buy Meats 187 22 Just How to Roast Meats . . . . . 200 23 Just How to Broil Beefsteak .... 202 24 Just How to Cook Pot Roast of Beef . . 205 VI COXTENTS 25 Just How to Casserole Meats 26 Just How to Cook Meats . 2y Desserts 28 Just How to AIake Desserts . 29 Salads 30 A Chapter of Salads . . . 31 Potatoes and Other \'egetables . 32 Just How to Cook Potatoes 33 Just How to ]vIake Jellies and Preserves 3^ Just How to Cook A'egetables . 35 Just How to Make Pickles 36 Ice Cream axd Cake 37 Just How to Make Frozen Desserts 38 Just How to ]\Iake Cake .... 39 Just How to Buy and IMake Coffee PAGE 209 214 239 265 267 281 297 343 357 359 375 399 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING PAGE A Tea Tray and Tea Service for the Porch or Indoor Use. Frontispiece Detail of a Luncheon Service, with the Correct Appoint- ments for Serving Fruit Cocktails lo One of the Newest Serving Trays, with Dresden China Bottom and Wicker Sides ii A^ Group of Sandwich Cutters for Use in Making the Tea Tray Attractive . . . i8 A Glass Server for the Cheese Course 19 A Luncheon Table Decorated for a Suffrage Function . 32 A School Luncheon Box in which Each Food is Wrapped in its Separate Paraffin Case ;^^ A Thanksgiving Table Decorated Especially for the Children 48 Cracker Dish Designed Especially for the Porch Tea Table 49 Puree of Tomato. A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving Relishes 60 Casaba Melon . . . 61 Cream Scones. Sally Lunns 72 Rusk Squares in an Attractive Porringer. A Service for the Breakfast Orange ys Ragga Muffins. Parker House Rolls 82 A Luncheon Table for a Washington's Birthday Celebra- tion 83 Peanut Butter Pinwheels in Process of Making. Rolling and Cutting the Dough. Peanut Butter Pinwheels . 88 Brioche Cakes 89 Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls. A Chafing Dish and Alcohol Lamp 98 Rice Steamed in One of the Newest of Kitchen Novelties : a Rice Ball. Raised Muffins 99 Escalloped Oysters, Served in Scallop Shells . . . . 104 Planked Salmon, with Potato Balls 105 vii viii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIOXS FACING PAGE Steamed Squash in Shell. Boiled Asparagus . . . 174 . Roast Turkey, Garnished with Cranberries .... 175 Flank Steak. Inferior Ham. Choice Ham .... 188 Standing Rib Roast. Common Porterhouse Steak from Stripper Loin 189 Sheep or Lamb, Marked to Show the Retail Cuts. Showing Where the Chops and Cutlets of Veal Come in the Carcass 194 The Retail Cuts of Pork, as Seen in the Whole Pig. The '■ Beef Creature," ]\Iarked Off to Show the Retail Cuts . 195 Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon 198 Mutton Loin Roasts 199 Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades . . 204 Sausage Bundles 205 Casserole of Beef. Corn Cakes to serve with ]\Ieat . . 212 Casseroled Veal. Creamed Asparagus Tips .... 213 Ivory Cream. Grandmother's Strawberry Shortcake . . 244 Gooseberry Amber. Steamed Rice, ^Molded and Garnished with Cherries 245 Strawberry Compote. Orange Surprise 258 Choux Pastry. Strawberry Charlotte 259 Jellied Chicken and Egg Salad. Cucumbers and Cress . 266 Tomatoes and Endive Salad, Garnished with Capers. Pond Lily Salad 267 Hawaiian Salad. Grape Salad in Tent 274 A Spring Luncheon Table, with Violets for the Centerpiece, laid with the Service Plates, and ready for the Soup Service ,. . • ■ 275 Potatoes, French Fried. Stuffed Eggplant Apples and Sweet Potatoes. A Christmas Garnish for the ]\Iashed Potatoes Celery Croquettes. Shad Roe Croquettes Lentils Garnished with Cress and Celery Hearts. Green Peppers Stuffed with Cauliflower .... A Souffle Tin. Raspberry Jelh', Acorn Cakes. Devil's Food Pudding .... Flag Cakes. Date Sandwiches Red and White Currant and Raspberry. Cherry Salad 286 287 330 331 358 359 376 Z77 PREFACE In compiling this cook book the pages of Good House- keeping have been freely drawn upon. To the following experts our readers are especially indebted : Dr. Louis M. Hall, Market Specialist for the Federal Department of Agriculture. Mr. William B. Harris, Coffee Expert for the Fed- eral Department of Agriculture. Miss Bertha E. Shapleigh, School of Cookery, Teachers College, New York City. Mrs. Mary J. Lincoln, Author of the Boston Cook Book. Mrs. Linda Hull Earned, Author of Hostess of To-day. Miss Helen Louise Johnson, Chairman of Home Economics Section of National Federation of Women's Clubs. Riley M. Fletcher Berry, Author of Fruit Recipes. Professor B. E. Powell, Editor of Publications, Illinois College of Agriculture. Mildred Maddocks. IMPORTANT NEW FEATURES Blank pages are provided at the end of each chapter in order that each owner of the Pure Food Cook Book may increase its value. Write or paste in the proper place your favorite old recipes, as well as the best new recipes that you find. The publishers will be pleased to receive suggestions to be included in future editions of the book. GOOD COOKING BY H. W, WILEY GOOD COOKING* By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. WO or three years ago I drove with some C friends through the vineyards of Burgundy, along that hillside which, because of its great agricultural wealth, is called the Cote d'Or, the hill of gold. Late in the afternoon we drove over the crest of the hill where there were no longer vines, but undulating fields of grain and grass. At sundown, high upon a h'Uside, we came to a peasant's cot. The peasant with his family were at supper. They were not expecting visitors and we w^ere not expecting to be visitors. They invited us to supper. The peasant's wife did not do as my mother used to when I was a boy, when we were at supper and the minister came into the lane. In such a case she would take away the corn mush and sorghum molasses and skimmed milk and get out the loaf of bread, the preserves and jams, and the chickens would come and lay their heads upon the block ready for the ax. All in honor of the minister. The peasant's wife did not put anything on the table she did not have there when we came in, only more of it. And such bread ! the whole wheat grown in the field nearby and ground in the old- fashioned windmill in plain sight. The wheat was not deprived of all of its most important mineral ingredients * The special articles by Dr. Wiley herein have been written expressly for " The Pure Food Cook Book." 3 4 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK by bolting and sifting. It was just what nature made it. The vegetables were crisp from the garden and the butter and milk from the spring-house nearby ; and the cold lamb had never known the rigors of cold storage, but a day or two before was feeding on the aromatic grass of the hillside. The cooking was perfect. It was a feast fit for Lucullus. And this condition of affairs can be found in every part of France; good cooks are not the exceptions. They are the rule among the coun- try people of that great country. And who has ever heard of a divorce in rural France? It is unknown. Occasionally we read of divorces in French cities but never among the peasantry of the fields. Why should anyone want to get a divorce when he is so well pro- vided with simple and well-cooked food? There is nothing which is more conducive to tranquillity and hap- piness than good cooking. Unfortunately it is not con- sidered good form to be a cook. The girls of our country are set down at a piano at six years of age and compelled to pound ivory five hours a day for fifteen years, unless in sheer desperation they should run off with the chauf- feur. And when they have finished this long and ex- pensive course someone comes along and invents a pianolo or victrola that plays better music in a minute than a girl does after fifteen years of study. She is robbed of all her glory. But suppose she had spent fifteen years in learning to cook. Who could rob her of that glory? No one. It would remain a blessing to her, her parents, her husband, and her children for her whole life. What we need in this country is fewer pianos and more stoves. With a good cook in every household, and preferably not a hired one, the divorce mills of the country might as well shut up ; they would have nothing GOOD COOKING 5 more to do. Domestic life would be peaceful, happy, and unbroken. We must get away from the idea that cooking is drudgery. There is no drudgery, except in the mind. The man who goes out and breaks stone evenly so that a lasting road can be built over which future generations may pass with comfort and safety is not a drudge ; he is an artist. The boy who goes out into the field and plows a straight and deep furrow in which more corn will grow is not a drudge. He is an artist; and the girl who goes into the kitchen and cooks a meal that is good, that tastes well, that is properly bal- anced and properly served is no drudge ; she is an artist. The attitude is the principal thing in this mat- ter. If one has the spirit of the artist, the mere physical exertion which is necessary to paint the picture is no longer feared nor dreaded. A cook book such as this will do much to stimulate the artistic spirit in the cook, and thus make her forget the warmth of the kitchen, the heat of the fire, and the manipulations necessary to success. She has before her her canvas ; she is painting on it a picture ; that picture is the finished meal. She has the enthusiasm of art. There is no place for the depressing sense of fatigue. Good cooking is also one of the fundamental principles of good health. This country has an abundance of food. There is no country in the world that has so much in proportion to the population ; and there are few coun- tries, I imagine, where so large a percentage of it is spoiled in the kitchen, before it reaches the table. What an infinite blessing it would be to all the people of this country if that spoiling of the food in the kitchen could be stopped ! How much of comfort, good health, and happiness that would imply. How great the economy which it would work. The cook who '' knows how " is 6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the economical cook. And the food that is properly prepared for the table is the food which in the end costs less and goes further than any other. The high cost of living would have no terrors for the good cook who liked the simple and nutritious dishes. Good Housekeeping in its ministration, looking to the betterment of the food supply and the increasing excel- lence of cooking, is doing a world's service which will be only measured by the gratitude of the millions who are benefited by its work, ^^^e have Good Housekeep- ing stores that are selling foods approved by Good Housekeeping and the household utensils which receive the approbation of its Institute. We now want to com- plete that work by instituting Good Housekeeping kitchens in which the mistress of the kitchen will know the principles of nutrition as well as the technique of cooking. She will know how to select her foods for the purpose for which they are intended, namely, to restore waste, build tissue, and furnish heat and energy. Every meal will- be selected for its fundamental proper- ties and then prepared with an art which will render each component of the food more completely assimilable and useful. Thus at the same time the Good House- keeping kitchen will minister to the taste and to the nutrition of the body. It is not necessarily scientific cooking in the strictest sense of that art. but it is rather artistic cooking in the broadest sense of that word. It is that form of equipment which will enable one to first select the foods best suited for the purpose and then manipulate them with skill to fulfill that purpose more completely. A cook book, therefore, should be not a mere cata- logue of recipes. This cook book is more than that. It is a selection of means to an end. skillfully adapted to GOOD COOKING 7 its purpose, and made as attractive as possible. The cook who is interested in this matter sufficiently to catch the spirit of the book will find her work lessened, her joy increased, and the benefits of her ministrations enjoyed. THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS AKING out the bills of fare for the three hun- dred and sixty-five days of the year is a bug- bear to many a woman. This feeling is apt to come from trying to plan at the wrong time. Few women can stand before an ice-box con- taining the remnants of '' gone-before meals," immediately after eating One, and plan out the next meal with zest or any great success. But take your pad and pencil and all the cook books you have. First look through these and put down under their respective headings those dishes which seem to you practicable or desirable for any of the three meals. Then plan the meals for a week, making out the probable market lists at the same time. Then when you stand before the ice- box with this week's bill of fare in your hand, you can adjust the meals to suit the exigencies of left-overs or lack of them, or to the incidents of company and unexpected changes. By this plan you will soon find your meals more varied, the cost should be lessened, and it is actually easier to plan better meals for less money in this way than to do so each day by itself. Of course you must make yourself familiar with the market supplies, and know how to choose. Knowing how to choose involves the whole subject of nutrition, and most housekeepers quail before its neces- sarily scientific rules and formulas. But there are little, common, everyday things which are great helps. For 9 lo THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK instance, there is an understood rule that any one food shall not be used twice in any form. That is, it is quite out of place to have chicken soup and boiled fowl in the same meal ; the connection is too obvious. This rule is a good one to use in planning the day's meals at any time. Eggs, certain kinds of meat or fish, should not be re- peated ; tomatoes stewed for luncheon should not be served again in that meal. This rule is applicable all through and leads to the oft-repeated one w^hich calls for the disguising of left-overs. Every meal should be a creation. Any one meal should not be colorless or flat. Do not serve more than one creamed dish. A cream soup, and baked custards for dessert is another example of this, for both would be white and creamy and as both in color and flavor the dinner would be flat and tasteless, it could not attract nor stimulate the appetite. Care always should be taken to aid digestion by the appearance as well as the flavor of the food. Within reasonable limits, dietetic errors do far less damage if the food is enjoyed when eaten. With fish, especially the fat fish, should be served some vegetable, sauce, or condiment acid in its nature, or to which acid is added. When spinach is served with fish, the inference is that vinegar will be used with it. Hot slaw is preferable to creamed cabbage, and cauliflower should be served with a hollandaise in place of a cream sauce, when either accompanies fish. It is often very difficult to accomplish this proper serving of vegetables with certain dinner dishes, and this is especially true when no meat is used. Fish and meat substitutes are flat, and the feeling induced by the thought of them indicates a tart accompaniment. Where there are no small children at the table a soup ^ b/) s • ti !u,^ ^ ^ »^ o H^ «^ -K^ g <^ g •+-^ •S o •^ ■^ ^ -to ^J ^ , ^ '^ ^ • <0 o ?3 ^ <5a ^ -s; o -Ki U -5i o "^ Q «-3 ■ij ►>^ •S ~« ^ s b s ^ H'^ «o c^ ss • ■?;< Q «^ ^ yi g «o 2| ^ ^ ^ 2 ^ ^ g 5^ ^ g o 5^ s-^ , "^ ^ ^ c-7 <^ XD Dre rccip ^ ^ ^ -g ?3 •■^ -^ f^ & g •^-^^ O >*» ^' V^ ^ ^ g ::d ^ •^ ^ g g Q • ^^ ^ ^ ^ ^ <^ '^a co.t: ^ p 2 t: g ^ ^ ^ 1^ o ^ '^ -5S ^ g o JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS it. or a salad served with each dinner would be preferable to a dessert. Desserts are often unnecessary, . taking more time, labor, and money than they return in food value. Often they add the extra proteid or carbohydrate which overloads the digestive organs. After a hearty dinner, an Qgg dessert, for instance, containing sufficient nourishment for the main dish of luncheon, is out of place. If, when planning, you can Gay to yourself, " There are two cupfuls of milk, three or four eggs, sugar, etc., in that dessert, and that is all unnecessary," you will find yourself planning more and more simple, wholesome things. Where the family at table consists of adults they are many times, far better ofif with two pieces of candy, or a sweet cracker with a cup of clear after- dinner coHee, than with any made dessert. Baked or stewed apples, apple sauce, or apple durnp- lings are better and cheaper than apple pie, but most of us like apple pie, and should have it as a reward of virtue once in a while. But why take time, labor, and material to make an under crust for a custard baked in a pie tin, instead of in cups, without any crust? They are less expensive and more wholesome in the cup form. Where there are growing children at the table desserts are required as vehicles for the fats and sugar needed in their diet. In planning the dinner the question of soups is an im- portant one. Where fresh meat is to be served or dishes containing considerable food value, the soup should be a clear one. There is little food value to soup stock, but clear soup acts as a stimulant to the digestion and pre- pares the way for the rest of the dinner. Cream soups of any kind are nutritious, and should be employed for dinner when there is a lack in the rest of the bill of fare. This is why cream soups are suggested for luncheon so 12 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK often and with little else. A well-made cream soup, with crackers or bread, followed by a dessert or fresh or stewed fruit with plain cake, cookies, or gingerbread is all that is needed for an adequate luncheon. Any left-overs may often be used in the making of soups. Where the midday meal is merely luncheon, not a luncheon-dinner, planned for the children, the left-overs should be utilized and served then. In no department of cooking is skill more needed than in making over dishes — hashes, in reality. The basis for most reheated meats, fish, and vegetables is a sauce of some kind. ^Master the making of sauces and one is master of the well-made entree. Remember, it is not the simplicity of the bill of fare, but how its dishes are cooked and served, that makes of the meal a feast. What to Serve for Breakfast Fruit may be served at every breakfast, but do not serve acid fruits like oranges and grapefruit when a cereal is served. Serve plain foods simply cooked. Serve home cooked, coarse cereals with eggs. Serve baked potatoes with creamed fish. Serve creamed potatoes with smoked fish. Serve creamed potatoes with lamb chops. Serve nuts and dates, or figs, with cereal in place of meat. Do not ser\'e elaborate made dishes for breakfast. What to Serve for Luncheon Use the left-overs for luncheon. Serve a soup with watties or griddle cakes for dessert. JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 13 It will be an innovation in some families, but the waffles are even better than at breakfast. Or serve a made-meat dish, a salad, and a dessert. Serve mayonnaise with tgg, meat, fish, or shellfish salads. Also with the more delicate vegetable salads, as tomato, asparagus, or celery. Serve a boiled salad dressing with vegetable salads. Serve French dressing with all green salads. Serve plain lemon with all fat fish, as salmon, herring, mackerel — or a green salad with French dressing. Serve a rich butter sauce or hoUandaise with the white fish like halibut, cusk, haddock, and smeUs. Tomatoes may be served with fish in place of lemon. What to Serve for Dinner The following combinations may be helpful in plan- ning the family dinner : they all are correct in supplying a well-balanced meal. Serve a clear soup, meat, potatoes, or a starchy vege- table like rice or hominy, a green vegetable, and dessert. Or meat, potatoes or a substitute, a salad, and dessert. Or a cream soup, a made dish of meat and potatoes, and dessert. With roast meats serve potatoes mashed, or roasted in the pan with the meat. ' With fricasseed meats, serve baked potatoes. " Serve potatoes plain boiled, only when new. With broiled steak, serve creamed potatoes and a crisp fried vegetable like eggplant. With roast pork, serve baked potatoes, a green vege- table, and a sour apple sauce. With roast beef, serve potatoes baked in the pan and a sweet watermelon or peach pickle. Any vegetable harmonizes with beef. 14 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK \A^ith roast chicken, serve mashed potato, onions, and a sour jelly. \\\Xh. roast lamb, serve mashed potato, green peas or string beans, and a mint sauce. Serve caper sauce only with mutton. Serve tomatoes, in some form, with veal. For dinner salads, use only the simple green salads, with French dressing. What to Serve for Supper Use made dishes for supper as well as for luncheon. Use at least one hot dish in winter. Serve a cream soup followed by waffles. Do not serve a cream soup followed by a salad. Salads may be used at supper in warm weather. Choose a vegetable or meat salad, using boiled dressing or mayonnaise. Serve pickles or a sour sauce with baked beans if there be any pork baked with them. Serve cakes or cookies, with fruit, for dessert at supper. SPRING MENUS— MARCH SATURDAY Breakfast Oranges Bacon and potato omelet Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Banana and nut salad Hot biscuit Currant cake Tea JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 15 Dinner Cream of lettuce soup Lamb chops Stuffed potatoes Peas Steamed pudding with vanilla sauce Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples Baked beans Brown bread Fish balls Coffee Dinner Chicken pie Sweet potato croquettes Cauliflower Cheese and red pepper salad Coffee ice cream, marshmallow sauce Snow cake Coffee Supper Spinach omelet Currant buns Preserves Gold cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Stewed apricots Uncooked cereal Omelet Rolls Coffee i6 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Baked bean soup Toasted brown bread Apple sauce Gingerbread Tea Dinner Beef a la mode Mashed potatoes Red cabbage Nut pie Coffee TUESDAY Biscuit Cup cakes Breakfast Bananas Cereal Fried fish Luncheon Bread griddle cakes Dinner Shepherd pie Coffee String beans Fruit jelly Tea Squash Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapes Cereal Bacon Toast Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 17 Luncheon Cream tomato soup Muffins Preserves Tea Dinner Boiled mutton, caper sauce Mashed potatoes Turnips Lima beans Hawaiian salad Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Apples Creamed dried beef Baked potatoes Rolls Coffee Luncheon Sausages Muffins Sliced oranges Cake Tea Dinner Onion soup Scalloped mutton Potato croquettes Baked squash Lettuce salad, French dressing Apple pie Coffee i8 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK FRIDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Cereal Poached eggs Coffee Luncheon Vegetable soup Crisp crackers Jellied prunes Cookies Tea Dinner Baked stuffed haddock with hollandaise sauce Boiled potatoes Spinach Tomato jelly salad Chocolate nut blancmange Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Cereal with figs / Buttered toast Coft'ee Luncheon Rice with cheese Fruit cakes Cocoa Dinner Tomato soup Hamburg steak Carrots and peas in potato cases Watercress Baked rice pudding Coffee to O O o JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 19 SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples Bacon and buckwheat cakes Coffee Dinner Roast turkey Cranberry sauce Mashed potatoes Onions Celery Baked squash Mince pie Coffee Supper Orange, nut and raisin salad Hot biscuit Chocolate layer cake Tea SPRING MENUS— APRIL MONDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Scrambled eggs Biscuit Coffee Luncheon Corn chowder Preserves Ginger snaps Tea Dinner Roast pork Apple sauce Celery Mashed potato Squash Orange jelly Coffee 2Q THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK TUESDAY Breakfast Cereal with bananas Creamed fish Rolls Coftee Luncheon Eggs and celery- Nut bread Cake Tea Dinner Cold roast pork Baked potatoes Apple sauce Onions Turnips Rice pudding Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Griddle cakes and syrup Coffee Luncheon Cream toast Baked apples with nuts Molasses cookies Tea Dinner Cannelon of beef Riced potatoes Shell beans Lettuce with French dressing Fruit roll Coft"ee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 21 THURSDAY Breakfast Cereal Broiled bacon Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Macaroni and cheese Sliced oranges Almond cake Tea Dinner Lamb chops Mint potatoes Peas Apple and celery salad Caramel bread pudding Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Cereal with figs Buttered toast Coffee Luncheon Egg salad Clam fritters Preserves Cake Tea Dinner Baked shad Potatoes hollandaise Cucumbers Scalloped tomatoes Apple pie Cheese Coffee 22 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SATURDAY Breakfast Apples and sausage Baked potatoes Rolls Luncheon Cold roast beef Lyonnaise potatoes Pickles Dutch apple cake Tea Dinner Irish stew with dumplings Cheese and olive salad Fruit jelly Coffee Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Grapefruit marmalade Boiled eggs Biscuit Coffee Dinner Roast beef Potatoes baked in pan Celery Squash Asparagus salad Vienna peach parfait Sponge cake Coffee Supper Oyster patties Preserves Chocolate cake Tea JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 23 MONDAY Breakfast Baked apples Uncooked cereal Broiled honeycomb tripe Graham rolls Coffee Luncheon Banana and nut salad Biscuit Preserves Sugar cookies Tea Dinner Roast beef in Mexican sauce Boiled potatoes Spinach Steamed chocolate pudding with creamy sauce Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Omelet Toast Coffee Luncheon Cream tomato soup Croutons Maple gingerbread Tea Dinner Roast stuffed veal Mashed potatoes Lettuce Succotash Lemon sherbet Cake Coffee 24 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SPRING MENUS— MAY WEDNESDAY Breakfast Cereal with figs and cream Crisp bacon Muffins Coffee Luncheon Vegetable salad Corn sticks Cold sliced ham Fruit Cookies Dinner Broiled steak Mashed potatoes Peas Lettuce with dressing Spanish cream Chocolate sponge cake THURSDAY Breakfast Oranges Eggs baked in casseroles Hominy muffins Coffee Luncheon Spanish fricassee of chicken Rolls Bananas and cream Cookies Tea Dinner Clear soup with croutons Potroast of beef Boiled potatoes Brown gravy String beans JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 25 Spiced rice pudding Small coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Baked apples Cereal with cream Broiled bacon Rye muffins Coffee Luncheon Scalloped salmon Dandelion and mint salad Gingerbread Cream cheese Dinner Mackerel (baked in paper bag) Baked potatoes Peas Tomato salad Steamed fruit pudding with hard sauce SATURDAY Breakfast Baked rhubarb with orange Fish hash Corn bread Coffee Luncheon Escalloped potatoes and eggs Dandelion salad Sugar cookies Tea Dinner Panned mutton chops Mashed potato Creamed onions Radishes Ginger cream Lady fingers 26 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SUNDAY Breakfast Sliced oranges Omelet Sally Lunns Coffee Dinner Roast beef Potatoes baked in pan Celery Asparagus on toast Ice cream with maple sauce Small cakes Small coffee Supper Shrimp mystery in chafing dish Toast Sponge cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Baked apples Country sausage Bread-crumb griddle cakes with syrup Coffee Luncheon Cream of celery soup Crisp crackers Potato salad Cheese balls Preserved peaches Cake Dinner Roast beef (reheated) Potato puff' Spanish onions Rhubarb tarts Small coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 2y TUESDAY Breakfast Cereal with dates and cream Broiled finnan haddie Plain muffins Coffee Luncheon Potato omelet Lettuce with French dressing Fruit dumplings Tea Dinner Veal in casserole with vegetables Succotash Celery Orange and lemon sherbet Cake Small coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Fruit Cereal with cream Crisp bacon Potato cakes Toast Coffee Luncheon Macaroni with sausages Apple and celery salad Cookies Tea Dinner Roast beef pie Spinach Tomato salad Pineapple Bavarian cream Small coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Fruit Cereal 28 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Boiled eggs Coffee Luncheon Baked sliced ham Preserves Small cakes Orange Pekoe tea Dinner Beef stew with dumplings String beans Tomato and horseradish salad Crackers Charlotte russe Small coffee SUMMER MENUS— JUNE SUNDAY Breakfast Strawberries and cream Baked eggs Bacon curls Raised muffins Coft"ee Dinner Alock bisque soup Roast lamb Brown gravy ]\Iashed potatoes Fresh asparagus with drawn butter Vanilla ice cream Strawberry sauce Coffee Supper Fruit salad Cream mayonnaise Toast Chocolate MONDAY Breakfast Fruit JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 29 Baked salt mackerel Graham muffins Coffee Luncheon Poached eggs with asparagus Cookies Tea Dinner Lamb timbales Creamed carrots Baked potatoes Lemon bread pudding Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Strawberries Cereal Bacon Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Luncheon cheese Strawberries Cake Tea Dinner Cream of pea soup Broiled steak Fried potatoes Lettuce salad Cream cheese Wafers Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges sliced Minced lamb on toast Hot rolls Coffee 30 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Sausages with bananas Graham toast Tea Dinner Tomato soup Crisp crackers Baked stuffed shad Potato balls Maitre d'hotel butter Sponge cake with whipped cream THURSDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Boiled shad roe Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Scalloped fish in shells Rye biscuit Cocoa Dinner Potato soup Tongue in casserole Boiled new potatoes Buttered string beans Strawberry parfait Coffee FRIDAY . Breakfast Sliced bananas Creamed codfish on toast Corn cake Coft'ee Luncheon Egg salad JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 31 Cheese breadsticks Cookies Tea Dinner Clam chowder Baked halibut Hashed brown potatoes Sliced cucumbers Chiffonade dressing Caramel custard Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Cereal with cream Broiled ham Fried potatoes Toast Coffee Luncheon Curried eggs Rice border Cake Coffee Dinner Crearh of fish soup Cold tongue with jellied vegetables Baked macaroni Gingerbread Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Hominy and cream Fish balls and bacon Parker House rolls Coffee Dinner Planked salmon with potato balls Fresh asparagus on cream toast 32 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Fresh cherry pie Coffee Supper Welsh rarebit Pineapple salad Cream cheese Crackers MONDAY Breakfast Oranges Cereal with cream Plain omelet Muffins Coffee Dinner Casserole of lamb Boiled new potatoes Tomato and olive salad with mayonnaise Toasted crackers Nut tapioca Coffee Supper Cold deviled eggs Hot rolls Strawberries and cream Cocoa SUMMER MENUS— JULY TUESDAY Breakfast Raspberries and cream Cereal Muffins Broiled bacon Coffee Luncheon Codfish puff Sliced tomatoes Rolls Iced tea Wafers JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 33 Dinner Broiled lamb chops Currant mint sauce Boiled rice Tomato and lettuce salad Blancmange with raspberry sauce Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal with cream Plain omelet Toast Coffee Luncheon Finnan haddie on toast Muffins Gingerbread Tea Dinner Clear soup Baked ham New buttered potatoes Swiss chard Stuffed tomato salad Crackers Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Sliced bananas Scrambled eggs on toast Coffee Luncheon Cold sliced ham Cream toast Cocoa 34 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Roast lamb Mint sauce Roasted potatoes Green string beans Lettuce salad Chili dressing Caramel bread pudding Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Raspberries Boiled cooked ham (left from Wednesday) Creamed potatoes Hot rolls Coft'ee Dinner Consomme, garnish of rice and red peppers Baked halibut Fresh green peas New buttered potatoes Dressed cucumbers Vanilla ice cream Hot chocolate sauce Cake Coffee Supper Shrimp and green pea salad Lettuce sandwiches Fruit punch Cake SATURDAY Breakfast Stewed rhubarb Minced lamb on toast Biscuits Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 35 Luncheon Eggs in baked potatoes Popovers Tea Dinner Mock bisque soup Creamed salmon in shells Rice timbales Vegetable salad with mayonnaise Lemon bread pudding , Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Hominy and cream Fish balls Baked beans Rolls Coffee Dinner Clear soup Baked chicken with stuffing Mashed potato Boiled Bermuda onions Romaine salad Cheese Crackers Raspberry shortcake Coffee Supper (Company) Creamed crab meat (in chafing dish) Toast Ripe olives Mint punch ^ Cake MONDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Omelet Muffins Coffee # 36 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Cream of onion soup Potroast of beef Scalloped tomatoes Baked macaroni Fruit Crackers and cheese Supper Jellied chicken and eggs Hot biscuits Gingerbread with marshmallow sauce Tea TUESDAY Breakfast Currants Poached eggs on toast Coffee Dinner Baked stuft'ed fish Sliced cucumbers French fried potatoes Scalloped eggplant Graham torte Coffee Supper Cold potroast of beef Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes Soft custard WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Beef hash Corn muffins Coft'ee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 37 Dinner Veal cutlet, brown sauce Green peas Mashed potatoes Tomato salad Cold cabinet pudding Coffee Supper Fish croquettes with tomato sauce Rolls Macedoine of fruit SUMMER MENUS— AUGUST FRIDAY Breakfast Blueberries Broiled fresh mackerel Corn muffins Coffee Luncheon Scrambled eggs on cream toast Blueberry cake Cocoa Dinner Tomato and corn soup Baked halibut with hollandaise sauce Boiled potatoes Green peas Apricot pie - Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Shirred eggs Blueberry muffins Coffee 38 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Salad of halibut and peas with piquant mayonnaise Rolls Iced tea Cookies Dinner Boiled fowl wdth celery sauce Rice Green corn on cob Tomato and cucumber salad Lemon pudding Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Cantaloupe Hominy and cream Fish balls and bacon Hot rolls Coffee Dinner Cream of lettuce soup Roast lamb Currant jelly sauce Riced potatoes Baked, stuffed tomatoes Frozen apricots Coffee Supper Chicken rechauffe (chafing dish) Graham bread and butter Preserved figs Iced tea MONDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal and cream Creamed dried beef Corn cake Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 39 Luncheon Baked beans (reheated) Toasted graham bread Cocoa — hot or iced Dinner Cold roast lamb Potato croquettes Scalloped eggplant Blueberry pie Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Baked sweet apples with cream Toast Broiled bacon Coffee Luncheon Luncheon cheese Sliced tomatoes with French dressing Tea Cookies Dinner Spanish fricassee of chicken Green corn on cob Lettuce salad Cream cheese with currant jelly Wafers Cold caramel custard Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Minced lamb on toast Plain muffins Coffee 40 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Scalloped chicken and corn Toast Cocoa Dinner Chicken soup Broiled steak Baked stuffed tomatoes flashed potatoes Baked blueberry pudding with ^lunroe sauce Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Blackberries Calves' liver and bacon Sour cream biscuit Coffee Luncheon Escallop of green corn Sliced cucumbers Fresh rolls Tea Cake Dinner Vegetable soup Veal loaf Boiled macaroni and tomato sauce Spinach Coffee ice cream Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Cooked cereal Baked eggs Muffins Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 41 Luncheon Cold ham Spinach salad and mayonnaise Rolls Cocoa Dinner Tomato soup with macaroni Baked stuffed bluefish Fried potatoes Creamed cucumbers Grape juice souffle Coffee SATURDAY Toast Breakfast Blueberries Broiled cooked ham Luncheon Scalloped fish in shells Peanut butter pinwheels Iced coffee Dinner Cream of cucumber soup Broiled chops Baked creamed potatoes Green corn Tomato and lettuce salad Rolled, toasted sandwiches Coffee Coffee AUTUMN MENUS— SEPTEMBER MONDAY Breakfast Cooked cereal 42 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Poached eggs on toast Coffee Dinner Tomato soup (without stock) Crisp crackers Broiled steak Hashed potatoes Fried summer squash Apple pie Coffee Supper Cold corned beef Vegetable salad Bread Peaches — sliced Cake Tea TUESDAY Breakfast Raspberries (late) and cream Broiled tomatoes on cream toast Coffee Dinner Cream of cucumber soup Cold sliced lamb Jellied vegetables Baked potatoes Cherry tapioca Coffee Supper Corn chowder (green corn) Hot gingerbread Cottaee cheese *&' WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS Fried corn meal mush 43 Bacon Green corn Coffee Dinner Clear soup Roast chicken Orange salad Sour cream pie Supper Lamb souffle Fresh rolls Macedoine of fruit Boiled rice THURSDAY Breakfast Cooked cereal Creamed dried beef Toast Coffee Dinner Vegetable soup Lamb chops Turkish pilaf Fried eggplant Blueberry pie Coffee Supper Lobster and spinach salad Rolls Iced tea Cookies FRIDAY Coffee Breakfast Baked apples and cream Bacon and potato omelet Rolls (reheated) 44 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Chicken and corn soup Baked bluefish Dressed sliced cucumbers Pear condet Coffee Supper Baked chicken hash Sliced tomatoes Sponge cake Iced tea SATURDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Sliced bananas and cream Muffins Coffee Dinner Roast beef Franconia potatoes Scalloped squash Tomato and lettuce salad with French dressing Banana compote Coft'ee Supper Baked beans Steamed brown bread Custards SUNDAY Breakfast Cantaloupe Fish balls Parker House rolls Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 45 Dinner (Company) Consomme Chicken Marengo (served in small casseroles) Green corn on cob Fried summer squash Dressed lettuce Cream cheese Bar-le-duc Peach ice cream Coffee Supper Crab and tomato salad with mayonnaise Rolls (reheated) Grape juice punch MONDAY Breakfast Sliced peaches Uncooked cereal and cream Scrambled eggs Toast and coffee Luncheon Fried tomatoes on toast Hot gingerbread Cottage cheese Tea Dinner Corn and tomato soup Baked shoulder of lamb with currant mint sauce Green peas and pimientos Mashed potatoes Peach ice cream Coffee 46 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK TUESDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Creamed chicken on toast (chicken left from Sunday) Muffins Coffee Luncheon Lamb broth Baked corn custard Popovers Cake Cocoa Dinner Steak a la Stanley Baked potatoes Lima beans Spinach salad Spanish cream Coffee AUTUMN MENUS— OCTOBER WEDNESDAY Breakfast Pears and grapes Hominy and cream Plain omelet Popovers Coffee Luncheon Cream of rice soup Toasted crackers Cold ham with lettuce salad Bread and butter folds Cocoa Dinner Clear soup with spaghetti Roast veal (loin) JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 47 Sour cream gravy Mashed potatoes Scalloped eggplant and tomato Romaine salad Chiffonade dressing Apple pie Cheese Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Oranges Uncooked cereal Cream toast Boiled bacon Coffee Luncheon Scalloped eggs and potatoes Fresh rolls Sliced peaches Tea Dinner Cream of tomato soup Croutons Cold sliced veal Baked potatoes Creamed cauliflower Spanish cream Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Grapefruit (removed from shell) Creamed ham on toast Rolls (reheated) Coffee Luncheon Sardines with potato salad Toast Cocoa Dinner Boiled cod Hollandaise sauce 48 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Potato rissolees Buttered beets Cabbage and celery salad Baked caramel custard Caramel sauce Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Cooked cereal with cream Fish hash Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Creamed veal in mashed potato border Hot biscuits Fruitcake Tea Dinner Fish soup (Swedish) Broiled steak French fried potatoes Baked stuffed onions Celery Cold cabinet pudding Coft'ee SUNDAY Breakfast Grapes Hominy and cream Fish balls Parker House rolls Coffee to «-5 Q Oh «o ^ g Q O ^ •^ H- ►— d ^C) ^ Q "^ h^ Q ^ ^ s ^ • "^i 5 ^ to -Ci § Q >^ hs '^ JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 49 Dinner Consomme Olives Celery. Rolled fillets of flounder creamed Lobster sauce Roast lamb Currant jelly Roasted potatoes Creamed turnips Peach ice cream Coffee Supper Lobster salad Ripe olives Bread and butter sandwiches Cake Coffee MONDAY Breakfast Sliced pears with cream Poached ^gg with cream Coffee Dinner Casserole of beef stew Lettuce and tomato salad Steamed fig pudding Foamy sauce Supper Cream of corn soup Crisp crackers Lettuce and beet salad with mayonnaise Hot biscuits Gingerbread Tea TUESDAY Breakfast Cereal (uncooked) 50 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Sliced bananas and cream Corn muffins Bacon Coffee Dinner Boiled tongue Plain boiled potatoes Scalloped cabbage Beet and green pepper salad Brown Betty Coffee Supper Eggs and celery Creamed potatoes Baking powder biscuits Preserved figs Cake Tea WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges ' Minced lamb on toast IMuffins Coffee Dinner Cream of cabbage soup (made from left-over scalloped cabbage) Salmi of lamb Stuffed baked potatoes Fried eggplant Prune whip Custard sauce Supper Cold tongue Potato salad Rolls Baked pears with Bangor Brownies Tea THURSDAY Breakfast Stewed figs Uncooked cereal JUST HOW TO FLAN THE MENUS 51 Baked eggs Corn muffins Coffee Dinner Cream of pea soup Baked sliced ham Turkish pilaf Green string beans Orange and mint salad Custard souffle Supper Cheese pudding Popovers String bean and pimiento salad Cocoa shells Cake AUTUMN MENUS— NOVEMBER SATURDAY Breakfast Baked apples with cream Buckwheat cakes Maple syrup Coffee Luncheon Minced lamb on toast Baked potatoes Fruit Cocoa Dinner Tomato soup Veal cutlets in casserole Scalloped tomatoes Lettuce and cream cheese salad Pumpkin pie Coffee 52 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK SUNDAY Breakfast Oranges Hominy and cream Baked sausages Waffles Coffee Dinner Clear soup Roast capon, giblet gravy Cranberry relish Southern sweet peppers Baked stuffed potatoes Caramel ice cream Cake Coffee Supper Milk rabbit Olives Pickles Lemon sticks Tea MONDAY Breakfast Uncooked cereal Scrambled eggs with bacon Muffins Coffee Luncheon French toast Chocolate Dinner Creole soup (using remainder of peppers and stuffing) Meat balls, curried rice Peas Onion salad Bread and butter pudding Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 53 TUESDAY Cake Breakfast Stewed apples Date muffins Coffee Luncheon Cold chicken Hot rolls Asparagus salad Dinner Broiled lamb chops Delmonico potatoes Green string beans Orange salad Cheese souffle Coffee Tea WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges, sliced Minced chicken on toast Coffee Luncheon Summer hot pot Gingerbread Tea Dinner Cream of pea soup Roast loin of pork Apple sauce Roasted potatoes Creamed onions Prune souffle Coffee 54 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK THURSDAY Breakfast Sliced bananas Oatmeal and cream Bacon Eggs to order Coffee Luncheon Cream of , onion soup Crisp crackers Pear salad, cream mayonnaise Rolls Cocoa Dinner Chicken soup with rice Cold roast pork (gravy reheated) Browned sweet potatoes Baked squash Apple fritters, vanilla sauce Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Creamed codfish Johnnycake Baked potatoes Coffee Luncheon Salmon salad Popovers Baked custard Tea Dinner Plain tomato soup Baked cod, oyster stuffing JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 55 Mock hollandaise French fried potatoes Lettuce salad, chili dressing Toasted crackers Cheese Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Bacon omelet Muffins Coffee Luncheon Scalloped fish Steamed brown bread Sliced oranges Cookies Tea Dinner Mock pork Hot rolls Fruit salad Crackers Cheeese Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples with cream Fish balls Brown bread Waffles Coffee Dinner Consomme with noodles Roast beef, horseradish sauce Roasted potatoes Boiled buttered onions Molded tomato salad Crackers Cheese 56 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Cold cabinet pudding Coffee Supper Chicken salad Lettuce sandwiches Chocolate nut wafers Preserves Tea WINTER MENUS— DECEMBER FRIDAY Breakfast Stewed apricots Uncooked cereal Scrambled eggs Buttered toast Coffee Luncheon Sweet potato toast Apple sauce Cookies Tea Dinner Boiled halibut Hollandaise sauce Potatoes with parsley String beans Apple pie Cheese Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Grapes Cereal Bacon Creamed potatoes Coffee Luncheon Stuffed sweet potatoes JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS $7 Biscuits Preserves Tea Dinner Braised tongue, caper sauce Mashed potatoes Parsnip fritters . Creamed lima beans Mock cherry pie Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Baked apples Uncooked cereal Cream toast Coffee Dinner Beefsteak with onions Mashed potatoes Squash Celery and nut salad Orange ice Angel cake Coffee Supper Sweetbread in ramekins Rolls Preserves Marshmallow cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes Cereal Poached eggs on toast Coffee Luncheon Breaded tongue, tomato sauce Scalloped potatoes Cake Tea 58 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Dinner Flank steak en casserole Apple and celery salad Lemon jelly with soft custard sauce Goitee TUESDAY Breakfast Grapes Uncooked cereal Greamed dried beef on toast Goffee Luncheon Gream tomato soup Doughnuts Gheese Tea Dinner Mutton chops Griddled sweet potatoes Peas Brussels sprouts Rice pudding Gofifee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Gereal Sausages Rolls Goffee Luncheon Gorn soup Grisp crackers Toasted English muffins Marmalade Tea Dinner Meat loaf with hard cooked eggs JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 59 Mashed potatoes Spinach Lima beans Prune souffle Coffee CHRISTMAS DAY Breakfast Grapefruit Baked sausages Waffles, syrup Coffee Christmas Dinner Oyster cocktails Brown bread folds Pimolas Ripe olives Clear consomme, garnish of pimiento stars Roast goose, potato stuffing (garnish of fried apple- rings and sausages) Candied sweet potatoes Boiled onions Dinner salad Crackers Cream cheese English plum pudding, brandy sauce (Garnish with holly and send lighted to table) Vanilla ice cream with red bar-le-duc currants Cakes, candies, nuts, and raisins ApoUinaris Black coffee Supper Eggs Creole (chafing-dish) Toasted crackers Olives Fruit cake Tea FRIDAY Breakfast Grapes Cereal Broiled bacon Corn muffins Coffee 6o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Italian Polenta Baked apples Tea Dinner Baked whitefish Boiled potatoes Cold slaw Scalloped tomatoes Mince turnovers Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Oranges Uncooked cereal Scrambled eggs Toast Coffee Luncheon Cream toast Cake Chocolate Dinner Cold roast goose Stuffed potatoes Creamed celery Cream cheese and currant salad Fruit Coffee WINTER MENUS— JANUARY SUNDAY Breakfast Cereal with dates French toast Coffee Puree of Tomato. Recipe on Page ii8. A Carrot Case for the Thanksgiving Relishes. JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 6i Dinner Veal with sour cream gravy Mashed potatoes Celery Olives Mushrooms in cream Charlotte russe Coffee Supper Oyster stew Rolls Caramel nut cake Tea MONDAY Breakfast Grapefruit Sausage pats Baked potatoes Rolls Coffee Luncheon Cream of corn soup Crackers Tea Dinner Roast lamb . Potatoes baked in pan Green beans Turnips Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce Coffee TUESDAY Breakfast Apple sauce Fried fish Corn muffins Coffee 62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Cheese and nut salad Spice cake Tea Dinner Cottage pie with sweet potato crust CauHflower Shell beans Lemon jelly, soft custard Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Oranges Uncooked cereal Minced lamb on toast Coffee Luncheon Sweet potatoes and apples Biscuit IMolasses drop cakes Tea Dinner Boiled ham Mashed potatoes Celery Scalloped tomatoes Fig pudding, hard sauce Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Grapes Eggs a la goldenrod Coffee Luncheon Sardines JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 63 Rolls Sliced oranges Oatmeal cookies Tea Dinner Macaroni soup Cold ham Scalloped potatoes Spinach Corn Pineapple tapioca Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Oranges Griddle cakes with syrup Coffee Luncheon Ham in ramekins Muffins Cocoa shells Dinner Southern tomato soup Baked haddock French fried potatoes Jellied vegetable salad Cheese straws Indian pudding Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Baked apples Uncooked cereal Broiled bacon Muffins Coffee 64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Luncheon Split pea soup Croutons Preserves Cake Tea Dinner Veal loaf with mushrooms Boiled rice Celery Escalloped tomatoes Apple turnovers Cheese Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Oranges Baked beans Brown bread Fish cakes Coffee Dinner Roast beef Mashed potatoes Carrots and peas Apple and date salad --- Chocolate ice cream Sponge cake Coffee Supper Scallops a la Newburgh Biscuits Grape marmalade Tea MONDAY Breakfast Grapes Fried mush with syrup Coffee JUST HOW TO FLAN THE MENUS 65 Luncheon Baked bean soup Apple sauce Cocoanut cake Tea Dinner Beef and vegetables in casserole Romaine, French dressing Jellied walnuts Chocolate cake Coffee WINTER MENUS— FEBRUARY TUESDAY Breakfast Oranges Cereal Buckwheat cakes Coffee Luncheon Creamed codfish with cheese Oatmeal muffins Maple apple sauce Cookies Dinner English beef soup Ham and macaroni timbales Cole slaw Chocolate blancmange Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapefruit 66 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Uncooked cereal Creamed dried beef on toast Coffee Luncheon Chicken salad Preserves Cake Chocolate Dinner Roast lamb Mashed potatoes Peas Carrots Apple mint jelly Indian pudding Coffee THURSDAY Breakfast Baked bananas Sausages Corn cake Coffee Luncheon Banana and nut salad Lettuce sandwiches Jumbles Tea Dinner Consomme Cold roast lamb French fried potatoes . Celery relish Shell beans Apricot trifle Coffee FRIDAY Breakfast Stewed prunes L^ncooked cereal Poached eggs Coffee JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 67 Luncheon Hashed lamb with EngUsh walnuts Pickles Chocolate cake Tea Dinner Finnan haddie baked in milk Boiled potatoes Tomatoes Asparagus salad Valentine cakes Coffee SATURDAY Breakfast Cereal with dates Muffins Coffee Luncheon Omelet Toasted English muffins Orange marmalade Tea Dinner Hamburg steak Scalloped potatoes String beans Corn Lemon jelly Coffee SUNDAY Breakfast Apples Uncooked cereal 68 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Broiled bacon Toast Coffee Dinner Roast duck Mashed potatoes Onions Celery Apple sauce Mince pie Cheese Coft'ee Supper Pineapple and grapefruit salad Graham nut bread ]\Iarshmallow cake Cocoa MONDAY Breakfast Oranges Broiled ham Baked potatoes Rolls Coft"ee Luncheon Potato soup Date loaf cake Tea Dinner Cold roast beef Mashed potatoes Turnips Cabbage and apple salad Steamed chocolate pudding — Creamy sauce Coft'ee TUESDAY Breakfast Grapes JUST HOW TO PLAN THE MENUS 69 Fried fish Biscuits Coffee Luncheon Rice waffles with maple syrup Grapefruit Tea Dinner Duck soup Vegetables en casserole Scalloped apple pudding, lemon sauce Coffee WEDNESDAY Breakfast Grapes Hamburg steak Baked potatoes Coffee Luncheon Potato puffs Maple apple sauce Nut cookies Tea Dinner Baked fresh ham Potatoes Cauliflower Spinach salad Orange sherbet Cocoanut cake Coffee BREAD By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. HE term bread to the American means a product made of white flour. I am not an enemy of white flour, but I am a friend of whole wheat flour. _ There are many brands of white flour. For practical purposes in the kitchen we need only consider flour for bread making and for pastry making. The difference between these two classes of flours is chemical and correspondingly physical. Bread making flours are those which have a high content of very sticky gluten. This characteristic favors the entangling of bubbles of gas produced in the leavening process and their subse- quent expansion held in the meshes of the gluten to make a porous bread. In pastry the leavening process is of less importance and hence a flour with a smaller content of gluten, a less sticky kind, may be employed. Or, again, a flour of second grade containing a great deal of what is known as middlings may be very useful for pastry making, especially when the whiteness of the fin- ished product is not a matter of very great importance. White flour is the typical product for bread making in the United States. In Germany and Russia rye is the principal source of bread, and rye is used among our own foreign-born citizens to a large extent. Indian corn ranks next to wheat as a source of bread supply in the United States. This is especially true in the border 71 ^2 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and southern states, where a meal without corn bread is considered incomplete. There is no very great differ- ence in the nutritive properties of the different cereals. Indian corn has less protein and the protein is less suitable for very young children. Oat flour has the largest amount of protein, and it is quite suitable for nutritive purposes, though it does not rank high as a bread maker. Barley, rye, and buckwheat occupy in- termediate positions. So important is bread that it is a synonym for all food. It is called by the poet " the staff' of life." Bread making should be an art which every cook should learn. With the same raw materials two cooks will turn out products so different in character as to be hardly recog- nized as kin. The French and Austrians make the best bread among the nations of the earth. The characteris- tics of the loaf are largely brought about by the amount of manipulation, the kind and setting of the yeast, and the speed and completeness of cooking. Most of us like a bread which is largely crust. The long, so-called French loaf may very properly be called the '' staff of life " as it might be used for a walking stick. Bread, that is to say cereals, is the ideal food. It is ideal both by reason of its economy and because of its nutritive properties. The cook should learn especially to make the so-called brown breads, which are not only palatable but highly wholesome. It is a mistake to feed a family nothing but white flour bread. It is both a dietetic and a nutritional mistake. Nevertheless white flour bread will continue to be, perhaps for many years, the prin- cipal kind of bread used by large numbers of people, hence the methods of making it in the right way are of supreme importance. In connection with the subject of bread, it is well that Cream Scones. Recipe on Page go. Sally Liinns. Recipe on Page 8p. Rusk Squares in an Attractive Porringer are an Acceptable Dish for the Invalid. A Service for the Breakfast Orange that is Most Popular where the Fruit is Grown. BREAD 73 attention should be called to leavening agents. There are three methods for leavening bread. • First, the me- chanical method, which consists in the admixture of air or carbon dioxid in the kneading of the dough. This method has been highly praised because of the fact that it introduces no foreign substances into the loaf. It requires, however, machinery and as a rule is not avail- able for family purposes. The second method of aeration consists in the use of yeast. Yeast-made breads are generally the best, whether eaten cold, as is advisable in most cases, or in hot rolls, which are perhaps the most delicious of the bread products. Good yeast, skillfully employed, produces from the sugar of the flour equal quantities of carbon dioxid and alcohol. Both of these are in a gaseous form when the bread is baked and are active in the aeration process. Only small quantities of these bodies are formed and the alcohol is rapidly dis- sipated during the process of baking and on standing. Even the strictest prohibitionist may not refuse to eat yeast-raised bread because it may contain a mere trace of alcohol ! Good yeasts also add a distinctive and de- sirable flavor to the loaf. The third method of aeration is all too common be- cause of its cheapness and speed, namely, the use of leavening powders. These " baking powders," so-called, are of three general classes ; first, those made with cream of tartar, as the acid constituent of the powder; second, those made with phosphoric acid, or acid calcium phos- phate, as the acid reagent, and third, those in which alum furnishes the acid ingredient. There is a great differ- ence of opinion respecting the excellence and wholesome- ness of these classes of powder. We all have our in- dividual preferences and as all of these powders are on the market, and usually correctly labeled, there is no 74 THE PURE EOOD COOK BOOK reason why everyone should not be able to secure the one he wants. All of these leavening agents leave min- eral residues in the finished loaf. The cream of tartar powders leave a residue of rochelle salts, that is, a double tartrate of sodium and potassium. The phosphate powders leave a residue of sodium phosphate and the alum powders leave a residue consisting of aluminum hydrate and sulphate of soda (glauber's salts). In my opinion, the ingestion of any considerable quantities of any of these ingredients is objectionable. Personally, I prefer the cream of tartar powders; others prefer the phosphate powders, and some believe the alum powders to be no more objectionable than the others. " You pays vour monev and vou takes vour choice." JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD HE first and most important " must-have " is good yeast. I have come to depend almost wholly and with the most perfect trust on compressed yeast. If your grocer keeps yeast at all, it will be fresh, the manufacturer sees to that, as the stock of each day is renewed and the old yeast cakes are taken away. Still, if you keep it yourself for a few days in a refrigerator it will not spoil. Yeast which is moist, light colored, and of " reviving smell," as an old lady I know expressed it, is all right. If it gets dry, brittle, streaky, and smells the opposite of " reviving," throw it away ; better lose two cents than twenty cents' worth of flour, with fire and labor added. Be very careful of the heat of the water in which yeast is softened. If you have a thermometer, let the water be sixty-eight degrees; if you have to trust to your hand, let it be very surely no more than lukewarm. Then the flour — it is an invariable rule to use bread flour when yeast is to be added. Bread flour will make tolerable pie or cake, but pastry flour will not make good bread. If, as occasionally occurs, you have flour whose nature you cannot determine, use the following test: take a handful and close the fingers tightly over it. If it remains in a soft velvety lump, even after the fin- gers are loosened, it is pastry flour. Bread flour will be dry and loose, it will not keep in shape. According to the time at your disposal, allow sufficient yeast for raising. For instance, if bread is wanted made 75 yd THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and baked in four hours, two yeast cakes would have to be allowed to the recipe I have given. There is no danger, should compressed yeast be used, of its tasting in the bread. This is called the quick-raising method. In a temperature of about sixty-eight degrees it will be ready to mold two and a half hours from the time it was set. It wdll be quite as good bread as that made after the slow^-raising method, although I think the latter will keep moist for a longer time. I have heard many housewives complain of bread souring. Bread sours only because of two reasons — uncleanliness in the making or the utensils, or because it was allowed to stand too long after mixing. When that occurs, the yeast has done its work completely, and the dangerous bacteria get in their work, exactly in the same w^ay as at the point where cider changes to vinegar. I have found, too, that in hot weather milk bread will sour much more quickly than if bread is mixed with water. Then there is the dry bread, with a heavy feel- ing about it, both to the touch and to the palate. Usually this is caused either by too much flour being worked into the dough or by heavy-handed kneading. Bread, like cake, pastry, cookies, and biscuit, has a point w^here just enough flour has been added and where no more ought to go in. This amount it is almost impossible for a recipe maker to determine, because there are so many flours and the wetting capacities of two are hardly ever alike. It is a case of experience. A practiced hand can tell almost the instant when enough flour has gone into bread by a certain springy feeling. Then tip it out and begin kneading. It may seem moist, but it is not moist enough to stick if you intervene with well-floured fingers between the dough and the cloth. Knead quickly and lightly; a heavy hand which pounds bread instead JUST HOW TO MAKE DREAD yy of molding it will soon thump all the life out of it, and the bread will have the texture of cheese. Bread Put four tablespoonfuls of shortening, either butter and lard mixed or one of the good fats on the market, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and one teaspoonful of salt into a bread-raiser, and pour over it one quart of boiling water. Place one yeast cake in half a cupful of luke- warm water and stir with a teaspoon till softened. When the water in the bread pan becomes lukewarm, pour in the yeast and stir thoroughly. Add five cupfuls of sifted bread flour, beating it as it goes in with a wire whisk. When it becomes too thick to move with the whisk, use a slitted wooden spoon and stir thoroughly, so that the flour and wetting may become well , mixed. Add flour enough to knead. When it is spongy but not dry, turn it out on a well-floured molding cloth and knead. It is the kneading that gives it the satiny smoothness and the elasticity which are invariable tests of good bread. It ought, even during this process, to begin to show bubbles in its textiire. Knead them out, as much as possible. When dough is put back in the pan to rise with bubbles showing here and there, it will be full of holes and poor of taste when baked. After the kneading is finished and the dough feels as smooth as silk, wash the bread-raiser and dry it, then rub well inside with butter or lard before putting the dough back again for the second raising. In the morning, when well risen, cut it down. By this process I mean cutting the light spongy mass through and through half a dozen times and then turning it over and over to check fermentation for a short time. The cutting takes only a minute or two, and one can feel 78 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK that if it is not attended to for half an hour, the bread win not sour. It does not hurt it at all if it has to be cut down a second time. When ready to care for it, toss on the floured molding board and knead again — slightly this time — till every air bubble disappears, then put it in greased pans, having each one about half full. Cover lightly, set in a warm place, and allow it to double its bulk before putting to bake. This recipe will make four good-sized loaves. The oven, to give satisfactory results, ought to be quite hot when the bread is first put in. If you bake it in a gas stove, the best plan is to light both burners seven or eight minutes before the bread goes in. Set it on the bottom shelf, then allow it to rise to double its bulk and begin to brown very slightly. Turn out one burner and finish the baking in a cooler oven. This does away with any fear of burning; it bakes the bread perfectly and gives a much nicer crust than if the oven is very hot all the time. The management of dampers in a coal or wood stove will give the same results. According to the size of your loaves, bread will require from forty-five to sixty minutes to bake well. On taking it from the oven set the loaves on a wire stand or sieve to cOol. Never wrap them steaming hot in a towel. Frequently one tastes the cloth in which bread has been wrapped, or the soap with which the cloth was washed. Besides, it shuts the steam up in the loaf, making it damp and clammy, a sure medium for the cultivation of mold. Allow the bread to become perfectly cold before putting it away in the bread-box or jar, then keep it closely covered. Swedish Biscuit One pint of milk, one tablespoonful of lard, three table- spoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, and one-half JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 79 of a compressed yeast cake. Over hot water, scald the milk and set it aside to cool, adding to it the lard, sugar, and salt. When it is lukewarm stir in sufficient flour to make a' hatter, then heat in the yeast cake which has previously heen softened in a little sweetened water. Add enough more flour to make a batter as stiff as you can stir. Cover, and set in a warm place for the night. In the morning work into the dough a piece of soft butter as large as the piece of lard, and if eggs are plentiful the biscuits are improved by working in an unbeaten ^gg, but this is not necessary. Knead upon the molding board, adding flour until it ceases to stick. When shaping them use just as little flour as possible, and make into round balls either by working on the board or by flouring the hands and rolling between the palms. Place in a drip- ping pan, an inch or more apart. Cover the pans with paper and set dough to raise. As they raise they will gradually flatten out. When light and fluffy bake in quick oven. This wilhrnake about three dozen biscuits. Coffee Cakes These coffee cakes are made from the same dough as the Swedish biscuits, except that a little more shortening, than is directed, is worked in, in the morning. When ready to shape them stir enough powdered cinnamon into about three tablespoonfuls of sugar to give it a brownish color. Take a piece of dough two-thirds the size of a biscuit and roll it either on the board or be- tween the hands, until you have a long round strip like a pencil, six or seven inches in length. Drop it lightly upon the board, coiling it round and round, and then lightly drop it into the cinnamon and sugar, and from 8o THE PURE_ FOOD COOK BOOK there to the pan to raise. Bake in a quick oven until a golden brown. Bread Puffs Knead raised bread dough and roll three-fourths of an inch thick. Cut in squares, rounds, or strips, and fry in deep fat hot enough to brown a bit of bread in 60 counts. Parker House Rolls Put one-half cake of compressed yeast to soak in one- half cupful of lukewarm water. In a mixing bowl place four cupfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little salt, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one of lard, and two cupfuls of boiling milk. AMien lukew^arm, add dissolved yeast, stir well, and set in a warm place to rise, adding sufficient flour to make a soft dough. After the dough has risen to double its size, form into rolls, adding no flour at this time, but rubbing the fingers and board with the butter, if necessary, to prevent it from sticking. Roll one-half inch thick, cut with a small biscuit cutter, then roll each biscuit to make them oblong in shape, spread with a little butter, fold over, and place on the baking pan. Let them rise before baking. If mixed in the morning, knead at noon. This quantity will make three dozen rolls. Pennsylvania Dutch Bread Four cupfuls of soft bread sponge, one and one-half cupfuls of sugar (or a little less), one cupful of currants JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 8i and raisins (seed the raisins), two eggs beaten separately, and enough flour to make stiff". Do not knead, but stir with a wooden spoon, then set it to rise, and when twice its original size, bake in two bread pans. JUST HOW TO MAKE HOT BREAKFAST BREADS HE family of hot breakfast breads is a large one. The raised roll appears often because the bread raised with yeast is almost always welcome, and as home-made bread is made as often as two or three times a week, it is very easy to save a little of the dough before its last raising for the morning roll. This is accomplished by reserving part of the dough when putting into the pans. Set away in a well-greased bowl, covered closely, and keep in the refrigerator until early the next morning. Then the cold dough is made into rolls, placed in pans, and put in a warm place for half or three-quarters of an hour, when they will be quite light and ready for the fifteen or twenty minutes' baking in a rather hot oven. If these rolls are brushed with melted butter just before they go into the oven, it will insure a rich tender crust. A little butter and a very little sugar and occasionally an ^gg are often worked into the dough when making into rolls, as this secures a rich roll. Wherever clarified fat is suggested for uses in the place of butter, double the quantity of salt should be used. The drop biscuit and the split rolls are suggested for use at luncheon, afternoon tea, or for supper, in the place of a sandwich. These, if filled with a salad may- 82 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK onnaise mixture, or any good sandwich filling, will prove a most satisfactory and dainty substitute for the bread sandwich. Sally Lunn At ten or eleven o'clock cream four tablespoonfuls of butter, add four tablespoonfuls of sugar, then two yolks of eggs, beaten, one teaspoonful of salt, and one cupful of milk. Xow add one-half a yeast cake dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of tepid water and three cupfuls of flour. Beat well, add the two whites beaten stiff. Put in a buttered, round pan with a center tube. In the morning bake in a moderate oven half an hour. Cover Avith maple sugar boiled down to almost a candy. This will form a crisp crust and be delicious. Ragga Muffin Roll bread dough out in thin, long strips, spread them with a hard sauce of butter and sugar creamed together and flavor with vanilla, nutmeg, or cinnamon, sprinkle with currants and raisins, roll up and cut into buns. When light, bake and glaze over with sugar and hot water. Graham Crisps ^lix two cupfuls of graham flour with one teaspoonful of salt and one cupful of water. Roll out rather thin. Cut into rounds. Put a layer on a greased pan, brush them with melted butter and put on another layer, pinch edges together, brush again with butter, prick clear Ragga Muffins. Recipe on Page 82. Parker House Rolls. Recipe on Page 80. «^ s "--i. -^ "^ s S « «3 ^ U S cq ■4^ ^ -s? ii -t«» • <^ ^ -Ci ' — a Q ^> ^ O ^ Q -^ V) '5^ • "Sf C5 t<> ^-^ g • «* S O •^ t^^ •*«i Q g S ^ ^ ^ JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 83 through both layers in several places and bake twenty minutes in a hot oven. Raised Split Rolls In the evening, perhaps just after dinner, take one cup- ful of hot potato, v^hich has been pressed through a coarse sieve — the potato may be either boiled, steamed, or baked — and mix it v^ith two tablespoonfuls of lard and the same of butter — both soft, but not melted. Now add one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-half cupful of tepid milk, add one tablespoonful of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one tgg yolk, well beaten. Stir weir and sift in one and one-half cupfuls of flour. Beat again and add egg white beaten stifif, and place bowl in a warm place until sponge is light and double in bulk ; then add enough flour to- knead, but use as little flour as possible. About ten o'clock roll out very thin, less than one-quarter of an inch, cut with finger biscuit cutter, place on well-buttered tin and brush each one with melted butter. Put another layer of biscuit on top of these, brush tops with melted butter, cover and set in very cool place until morning. Then put the biscuits in a warm place to rise. When double in bulk again — this will take about half an hour — bake about fifteen minutes in a hot oven. The secret of their success is to roll them very, very thin. Entire Wheat or Graham Muffin Mix one cupful of flour, one cupful of entire wheat or graham flour, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, three and one- half teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one-half teaspoonful 84 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of salt, and two tablespoonfuls of butter or clarified fat, melted. Add one cupful of milk and one tgg beaten separately. Half fill buttered mufiin pans and bake twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. Entire Wheat Pancakes Mix one cupful of entire w^heat with one-half tea- spoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, thin with milk, add ^gg yolk, beaten ; then, the last mo- ment, the white beaten stiff. Bake on a griddle. Raised MufHn To one cupful of scalded milk and one cupful of boiled water add three tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoon- fuls sugar, and one teaspoonful of salt. Cool and add one-quarter of a yeast cake softened in one-quarter cupful of warm water, one tgg yolk, and three and one-half cupfuls of flour. Then fold in the &gg white, beaten stiff. Beat w^ell, cover, and let raise until morning. But- ter muffin rings, fill half full, let raise half an hour, and bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Buckwheat Cakes Soak one-third cupful of fine bread crumbs in two cup- fuls of scalded milk thirty minutes ; add one-half teaspoon- ful of salt, one-quarter yeast cake dissolved in one-half cupful of water, and real buckwheat to make a batter thin enough to pour. In the morning, stir well, add one JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 85 tablespoonful of molasses, one-quarter teaspoonful of soda in one-quarter cupful of lukewarm water, and bake on a griddle. Save one-half cupful of the mixture for " seed." This " seed " should be put in a glass jar, cov- ered, and put on ice or in a cool place until required again and then used in the following manner : Put two cupfuls of water or milk in a bowl at night: add enough buck- wheat to make a thin batter, then add the " seed." Cover and put in a warm place to rise. In the morning add salt, molasses, and soda and a little bread flour, if neces- sary, to make batter the right consistency. These should be baked as soon as the soda is put in. One tablespoonful of maple syrup improves them if added just before baking. Use the old-fashioned buckwheat flour. Apple Johnnycake Very few people have ever heard of this old-fashioned dish, apple johnnycake, which is always an acceptable addition to the breakfast menu. Make as follows : One cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, two table- spoonfuls of sugar, one tablespoonful of melted butter or shortening, one cupful of cornmeal, and two-thirds of a cupful of flour sifted together with one-quarter of a tea- spoonful of salt. Cut into small pieces four apples and stir well into the batter. Bake in a quick oven. Nut Bread Sift together four cupfuls of flour and four teaspoon- fuls of baking powder. To one-half of this, add one cupful of chopped walnut meats and half a cupful of 86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK raisins. Now beat together three-fourths of a cupful of sugar, one and one-half cupfuls of milk, and one ^gg. Add the sifted flour, then the flour containing the nuts and raisins. Put it in two well-greased pans, let it stand about twenty minutes, and bake for nearly an hour in a moderate oven. Custard Corn Bread Four cupfuls of boiling milk, and three cupfuls of cornmeal. Stir the meal into the milk as for mush, add one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of sugar, and let this cool. When cool add two well-beaten eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, and three teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Bake as other corn bread. Rough Robin Six cupfuls of flour, two cupfuls of rice flour, one cup- ful of lard or butter, one cupful of sugar, three cupfuls of currants, three cupfuls of Sultana raisins, three tea- spoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of ground caraway seeds, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Rub the butter or lard into the flour and rice flour, add the sugar, baking powder, salt, spices, and fruit. Mix with buttermilk to make a stiff batter. Turn into a large buttered and floured cake tin. Bake slowly for two hours. Bishop's Bread Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, one cupful of raisins, one cupful of split, unblanched almonds, two cupfuls of JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 87 flour, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoon- ful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt. Flavor with lemon or vanilla. Beat the eggs and sugar until very light. Then add flour, soda, and cream of tartar, and lastly the nuts and raisins. Spread in thin sheet on but- tered tin, and cut in small oblongs or squares before it is cold. Hominy Spoon Bread Beat one ^gg light without separating, add one-half cupful of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and two cup- fuls of boiled hominy. Make a smooth mixture and pour into a baking dish. Put a few small pieces of but- ter, measuring one rounded teaspoonful in all, over the top and bake in a moderately hot oven from twenty to thirty minutes. It should be firm and of a golden brown color when done. Boiled rice may be used in place of hominy if desired. The bread should be brought to the table in the dish in which it is baked, and served with a spoon. Buttermilk Biscuit To one cupful of buttermilk add one-half teaspoonful of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter or shortening, and sifted flour to make a dough. Knead until smooth and elastic as for light bread. Roll out one-half inch thick, cut out, and bake in a quick oven for ten or fifteen minutes. Buttermilk Spoon Biscuit One quart of buttermilk, one teaspoonful each of soda and salt, two tablespoonfuls of soft butter or shortening, 88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Drop in hot gem pans and bake in a quick oven. Peanut Butter Pinwheels Sift, then measure two cupfuls of flour. Sift again with one-half teaspoonful of salt and four teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Work into this two tablespoonfuls of shortening and mix to a dough, stiff enough to roll, with milk. About three-fourths of a cup will be needed. Roll out lightly into a strip one-half inch thick, spread with a very thin layer of softened peanut butter. Roll up like a jelly roll and cut in half-inch slices. Put them on a buttered cookie sheet or biscuit tin so they will not touch. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. Cream Rye Gems One cupful of cream, two cupfuls of sour milk or buttermilk, one-half cupful of sugar, one well beaten tgg, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of soda. Thicken to a stiff batter with one part of white flour to two parts of rye. If sour cream is used, add another half teaspoonful of soda. Bake in gem pans in a quick oven. Sour Cream Biscuit One cupful of sour cream, one-half cupful of sour milk, two teaspoonfuls of soda, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and flour to make a soft dough ; about one quart. Handle as little as possible, roll thin, and bake in a hot oven from twelve to fifteen minutes. Note : If there is any doubt about the state of sourness of the milk and Peanut Butter Pinwheels in Process of Making. Rolling and Cutting the Dough. Peanut Butter Pin-wheels. Page 88. C\ . ^ «o ^ <^ •^ ^ Q cs , u C^H 1^ § -ss o f «o i "^ ^ •?" -^ • tS> 5 ^ JUST HOW TO MAKE BRTAD 89 cream, add three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, as if sweet milk were used. Brioche Cakes Add one-fourth cupful of sugar to one cupful of scalded milk. When lukewarm add one-third yeast-cake softened in warm water, then add one and one-half cup- fuls of flour, and let rise. When bubbly, add two eggs, beaten, one-fourth cup melted butter, one-fourth tea- spoonful of salt, the grated rind and juice of half a lemon, and one and one-half cupfuls more flour. Cover and let rise until light. Mold on a board to horseshoe shape and let rise again. Bake twenty minutes in a moderate oven. Sally Lunns Four cupfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of sugar, four tablespoonfuls of butter, quarter of a teaspoonful of salt, one yeast cake, two eggs, half a cupful of milk, and water. Crumble the yeast cake into a cup, put with it one teaspoonful of flour and sugar. Half fill the cup with lukewarm water, stand in a warm place for a quarter of an hour. Sift into a bowl the flour, salt, and sugar, rub in the butter. Pour the yeast into the center of the flour, and the eggs well beaten, milk, and enough lukewarm water to make a very soft dough. Mix and beat well with a wooden spoon, set in a warm place to rise for one hour. Grease three round cake tins, place the mixture equally in these. Stand in a warm place till risen to the top of the tins. Brush over with beaten eggs. Bake in a hot oven for ten minutes. They should be 90 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK lightly browned all over. Stand a minute before turning out. They may be buttered and eaten fresh, but are usually split in three and toasted when a day old. Cream Scones Sift two cupfuls of flour with three teaspoonfuls of baking powder and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Mix with one-fourth cupful of butter, then one-half cupful of cream with two beaten eggs. i\lix lightly, cut in tri- angles, and bake in a hot oven. Buckwheat Cakes Pour a pint of boiling water or milk on half a cup of fine cornmeal ; add half a teaspoonful of salt. ]\Iix well, and when lukewarm add half a cup of white flour, one cup of buckwheat flour, one-fourth cup of yeast or one softened yeast cake. Beat vigorously. Let it rise over- night. In the morning stir down and beat again. When risen and ready to bake, add one saltspoonful of soda, sifted through a strainer. Beat again, and fry in large cakes. Buckwheat cakes, even if not really sour, usually require the addition of soda just before baking, to make them light and tender. They should be eaten only in very cold weather, and but seldom even then. They taste better and brown better when made with boiling milk in- stead of water. Graham Gems One-half cupful of good syrup or brown sugar, one cupful of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one-half JUST HOW TO MAKE BREAD 91 teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of butter (melted), graham flour enough to make a stiff batter. Mix in the order given, and bake in hissing-hot gem-pans. Spider Corn Cake Sift together three-fourths of a cupful of cornmeal, one-fourth cupful flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of soda. Beat one ^gg until light; add one cupful of sour milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, and combine with' dry ingredients. Turn into a well-buttered iron frying-pan. Pour over the mixture one cupful of sweet milk. Bake in a moderate oven for thirty minutes. 92 AW RE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD 93 94 MORE WAYS OF MAKING BREAD RICE By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. ICE is a cereal which is rarely, if ever, used in bread making. It is, however, an important article of diet, consisting largely of starch, and furnishing an abundant source of heat and energy. In order to secure the best, nutritional rice, only unpolished kernels should be used. These, however, are not found very generally on the market because our people seem to have a passion, in cereals at least, for that which is pure white. Rice is often adulterated, that is, it is coated with glucose, talc, paraffin, etc. The purpose of treating rice in this way is to make it look better and thus appeal to the eye of the purchaser and consumer. In doing this, however, it loses often its right to appeal to the nutrition of the consumer. The average content of protein in polished rice is about seven per cent, while the protein of wheat is 12.25 per cent. On the other hand, rice has nearly eighty per cent, of starch, while wheat has a little over seventy per cent. Rice, there- fore, is not to be regarded as the equal of the ordinary cereals, as a builder of protein tissues, but it is superior to them in its power to furnish heat and energy, hence a diet of rice for a hard working man is ideal, because of the amount of heat required to furnish the energy for the labor. People of sedentary habits should be careful, however, not to eat too much rice. 95 96 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK The unpolished rice contains about eight per cent. of protein, and more than twice as much fat and mineral ingredients as the unpolished kernels. Recent inves- tigations indicate that vitamins, constituents which are of the greatest importance, are also lost when the outer coating of the rice is removed, and the absence of these and the other ingredients lost in polishing doubtless accounts for the occurrence of beri-beri among people living exclusively on polished rice, thus indicating the value of the materials removed, though the results, of course, are not so dire when rice forms only a part of the menu. Such facts are of great importance, however, in indicating the dangers and losses arising from the manipulation of natural foods and their over-refinement. JUST HOW TO COOK RICE OW comes a time when potatoes are high in price and may soar higher; why wouldn't it be a good plan to use rice sometimes instead of potatoes — rice which is not only a good cereal, vegetable, and dessert, but an unex- celled "left-over"? Rice is most valuable as a starchy food. It has more starch than potatoes, although it has less tissue building material. It has a very slight mineral content and practically no fat. In fact it has less fat than any cereal that we use. It furnishes heat and energy, and is well adapted as a food for those engaged in hard physical labor, or extreme exertion. Rice is not adapted, on account of the lack of proteid and fat, for a sole article of diet, but it is an admirable carrier for eggs, milk, and cheese, which impart to rice a valuable position in our dietary. In this way, strange to say, rice has come to be called an exclusive food in some Oriental nations, where it is used in combination with condiments to stimu- late digestion, and with eggs, tomatoes, curries, cheese, for their added food value. The Eastern rice has more nitrogenous value than most of the rice grown in America. The rice that we use in America is often highly polished — for appearance' sake — and is often coated with talc, to render the brown- ish kernels white and attractive. The public should de- mand either the unpolished rice, which has more nutri- tive value, or insist upon a digestible coating. This 97 98 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK should not only be a nutritive saving but a money one, as the polishing process is an added cost to the produc- tion of American rice. At present, however, unpolished rice is more expensive because of the small demand for it. '* It is a disgrace that the most intelligent nation in the world should be so ignorant of the food value of the crops on which more people live than on any other, that they should insist on having their rice made as shiny as polished glass beads, although in so doing they are throw- ing away the best part of it. Xo rice eating people treat their rice as we do, and it is to be hoped that the small markets that have been started for the unpolished rice will lead to a general propaganda," so said the late Ellen H. Richards, the home economics' leader. Most of the rice used and grown in Louisiana and Texas is Kiusha, — from Japan originally, — a short kernel which does not break as readily in the polishing process as the long grain, golden Carolinian rice. Buy the best quality of rice whose kernels are not mashed and broken. This is the first step in cooking rice successfully. Al- though there are numerous methods employed, yet every- one seems to agree that rice should be dry. and each kernel separate and distinct. All the Eastern nations like their rice harder than we, even as the Italians think that we cook our macaroni until it is too soft. Perhaps the rice eating people unconsciously feel that if their rice is hard, they are forced to masticate it more thoroughly, and thereby digest it more completely. Cook the polished rice in the following way in order to remove practically all the talc coating. Do not wash first, but place directly into plenty of rapidly boiling salted water. Boil hard twenty minutes, then pour all through a colander and wash the rice in plenty of hot water. When washed, place all in the oven to steam and dry. If Hulled Corn with Crisp Bacon Curls. Recipe on Page JJ5. A Chafing Dish and Alcohol Lamp. The Casserole is an Attractive Novelt^). Rice Steamed in One of the Xewesf of Kitchen Novelties: a Rice Ball. Recipe on Page pp. Raised Miiffijis. Recipe on Page 84. JUST HOW TO COOK RICE 99 washed before being cooked, the tale is not entirely re- moved as it has a tendency to stick on. It is not advis- able to use the water in which this rice was boiled for other cooking. A rice ball is now made in which the rice is placed raw and the whole put into boiling water. When cooked, the water is drained through the perfora- tions. This rice ball is illustrated. Rice increases from two and a half to five times its bulk in the cooking process, its swelling depending upon the variety of the rice and its age. The older the rice the more water it will absorb. In boiling unpolished rice it must be remembered that it should be washed thoroughly in at least three waters, or put in a strainer and washed until the water from the rice is quite clear; rubbed briskly between the hands ; boiled rapidly, so that the kernels do not adhere to the pot or to each other ; and not stirred, else the rice will stick to the bottom of the pot and burn. Do not cook rice with a cover on the pot. Rice, like other cereals, must be thoroughly cooked, as it takes an appreciable length of time, at least twenty minutes, to render its starch content digestible. The Indian method, after the rice is cooked, is to put it in the oven for about five minutes, with the door open, and allow the moisture to evaporate. Steaming is the best method of cooking unpolished rice, as in this way its scant proteid and mineral content is not lost in the water. If this rice is boiled, the water may be used for soup or sauce, in order to save the nutritive elements which escaped in the boiling process. Steamed Rice Two and three-quarters tablespoonfuls of rice, three- quarters of a cupful of water, one-quarter of a teaspoon- loo THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK ful of salt. Put salt and water in top of double boiler, place on range, and add gradually the well-washed rice, stirring with a fork. Boil three minutes, cover, place over under part of double boiler, and steam forty-five minutes; uncover, that steam may escape. Serve with sugar and cream. Rice when used as a dessert may be cooked with half milk and half water instead of all water. Mexican Rice One-half cupful of rice, washed and drained well. Fry the rice in one heaping tablespoonful of butter until a delicate brown; add to this one-half cupful of strained tomatoes and a little chopped onion. Let this cook for two minutes ; then add one cupful of thin soup stock, salt, and pepper. Cover and let simmer until all the water has been absorbed (about three-quarters of an hour). The rice when done will be perfectly soft, retain its shape, and will be a delicate pink color. Boiled Rice, Japanese Put rice in a basin of water and rub it between the hands, sometimes using the side of the dish as if it were a washboard, and literally scrubbing the rice. When thoroughly rinsed, place in a skillet and pour cold water over it. The water should stand two inches above the rice. Then boil over a moderate fire. When the water is absorbed and the rice soft, put the skillet on the back of the range (cover off) and let all the moisture dry out. The rice should be beautifully tender, perfectly dry, each grain distinct and very hot. (Salt added to the water in which it is boiled is more to the Western taste.) JUST HOW TO COOK RICE loi Persian " Piloh " One cupful of rice, one tablespoonful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of butter, four cupfuls of boiling water. Soak rice an hour in enough cold water to cover, or wash it in diiiferent waters until the water no longer becomes milky. Drain, and cook in the boiling salted water fifteen minutes, until nearly soft, leaving dish uncovered. Turn into a colander and pour cold water over it to separate the kernels. Melt the butter and pour into a baking dish ; then turn the butter out into a cup. Put the rice into the buttered bake-dish, pour the melted butter over it, and bake in a moderate oven one hour, leaving the dish uncovered. If rice be covered during cooking, the ker- nels are sticky and water-soaked instead of dry and flaky. If this " Piloh " is to be served with a stew, as is cus- tomary in the Orient, two tablespoonfuls of butter for baking is enough. Baked Rice One cupful of rice, one-half pound cheese, one cupful of milk, one-half of a teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne. Boil the rice rapidly twenty minutes, wash, and drain. Grate the cheese. Put a layer of rice in the bot- tom of a baking dish, then a layer of cheese, flavoring with salt and cayenne ; then alternate rice and cheese until you have the ingredients used. Pour in the milk, ■cover the pan, and bake in a quick oven twenty minutes. Vegetarian Rice Boil the rice until flaky, wash it, then mold into the shape of a loaf of bread. Cut the loaf in half and insert I02 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK three tablespoonfuls of butter and push together again. Grate strong cheese over the top of the loaf and bake in the oven until the cheese runs and glazes the top. Serve with asparagus tips in melted butter. Boiled Rice — Carolina Method This, perhaps the simplest and easiest of all methods, is the way rice is cooked by the rice planters and rice eaters in the coast cotmtry of South Carolina, where the famous Carolina head-rice is grown. Salt three quarts of water and place to boil. Thor- oughly wash and drain one cup of impolished rice. When the water is boiling briskly, empty the rice into the pot of water. Leave uncovered and keep the water boiling so rapidly that all through the pot the rice is in. constant motion. After twelve or fifteen minutes drain all the water from the rice, shake up in the pot once or twice. cover, and place on the back of the stove, or over a faint flame to dry out, until ready to ser^'e. This should take about twenty minutes. Hindu Rice as a Vegetable W ash the rice thoroughly, rubbing the grains between the hands, and using many waters, until all starchiness disappears. Then let the rice soak in cold water for at least fifteen minutes — longer if possible. Cut three or four large carrots in long, thin strips, as for soup, and boil them in one quart of water until it is reduced to a pint. Then throw away the carrots and use the water, which will contain their essence, in which to cook the rice. ^lelt one tablespoonful of butter in a double cooker, JUSr HOW TO COOK RICE 103 placing it, for tlie time being, directly over the fire, let the rice fry in it for a few minutes until it shows a tendency to brown, stirring constantly. Then add the water in which the carrots were cooked, and salt and cayenne pepper to suit the taste. Place the rice cooker in its proper vessel and let it cook until all the liquid is absorbed and the rice is well done. Test the rice by pressing a grain of it between the thumb and finger. If it crushes readily, it is sufficiently cooked. The essence of any vegetable secured in the same way as that of the carrots described in this recipe may be used for cooking rice as a vegetable. Thus the flavor may be constantly varied. Cream of Rice Soup To one quart milk add one cupful of cooked rice which has been left from a previous meal when rice was served as a vegetable. Cook in a double boiler for half an hour, then rub through a sieve. Return to the boiler, season with salt, pepper, and a suspicion of cinnamon. Add one cup of top milk or thin cream, and serve as soon as the soup is thoroughly heated. Be very careful about the cinnamon, that it is only a " suspicion," as too much spoils the flavor of the soup. Baked Rice and Sausages For six persons use one small teacupful of unpolished rice, eight sausages, two quarts of boiling water, one tablespoonful of salt, and a little pepper. Wash the rice in three waters, and then put it into a large stew- pan with the boiling water. Boil with the cover off the 104 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK pan for twenty-five minutes, adding the salt at the end of the first fifteen minutes. When the rice is cooked, drain in a colander. Sprinkle lightly with pepper, using about one-third of a teaspoonful, and then spread in a rather shallow dish. Cut the sausages into slices about one-third of an inch thick and lay them on the rice. Bake in a rather hot oven for twenty minutes and serve at once in the dish in which the cooking is done. Rice Cups Prepare a thick custard by boiling a cupful of washed rice in slightly salted milk ; cook until the rice is dry and tender, stirring in one well-beaten ^gg, a scant table- spoonful of sugar, a few drops of vanilla extract, and two tablespoonfuls of cream ; beat until light and pour into shallow china cups, placing in the ice-box to be- come firm ; when cold unmold and, with a sharp spoon, remove a portion of the rice from the center of each cup, filling the depressions with sliced preserved peaches and a little of the syrup ; cover the top with powdered maca- roon crumbs, and after arranging on a baking sheet run into a hot oven for about five minutes : serve with thick cream. ' Carrotina Rice Put one and one-quarter cupfuls of the best rice (picked but not washed) in covered stew-pan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, one-half of a tablespoonful of paprika (Hungarian pepper), and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix well. Place, covered, in hot oven for ten minutes, take out, add a good-sized carrot cut into cubes CO Q ^ C) ■*-^ a ^ »^ >J-^ H "^ ^ -5i !S^ « •?* f^ s s o o g -^ •-«> « 128 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK paraffined or vaselined paper or pasteboard, or with a screw cap or other reliable and tight cover. This is necessary not only to prevent water from volatilizing, which would finally expose the upper eggs to the atmos- phere, but also to prevent the carbonic acid of the air from decomposing the silicate. The eggs packed in well-sealed jars should be stored in a cool place, especially at first, that is, before the tgg germs have lost their vitality. However, the temperature must not drop below the freezing point. JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS .^.^ , HY is it I can never get an ^gg cooked to suit ril me in my own house ? " asks many a man. Because, oftentimes, the ^gg is put into cold water, and the time is then noted, but even when the &gg has been in the water the re- quested number of minutes, it has not been cooked at a sufficiently high temperature for a sufficiently long period. The difficulty is to obtain uniform results, many factors affect the result : the size and age of the ^gg, the size and kind of utensil and its position on the stove, the temperature of the tgg (an ^gg from a refrigerator takes, of course, longer to react to heat) and the amount of water. The table-cooked tgg is probably the surest, in obtaining uniformly cooked eggs. Taking all these possible conditions into account, the best way to cook or " boil " an ^gg is not to boil, but to cook it below the boiling point, say at about i8o to 190 degrees, F., because the ^gg albumen is toughened and rendered leathery and indigestible when submitted to JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 129 the boiling point of 212 degrees, but remains jelly-like, though firm, at the lower range of heat. Soft cooked eggs should be cooked below boiling point. Following is a test made in the laboratory of the University of Illinois : '' Using a granite-ware stewpan of one-quart capacity, one pint of water was heated over a gas flame ; when the water boiled the gas was turned ofif, and an ^gg, which had been kept in a refrigerator, was dropped into the water. Without disturbing the vessel, it was covered closely and the tgg allowed to remain in the water six minutes." It was then cooked soft. When the ^gg was dropped into the water the temperature fell immediately to 185 degrees Fahrenheit, and then slowly to 170 de- grees. If the Qgg remained in the water eight minutes it was medium-cooked, the temperature of the water at the end of the period having fallen to 162 degrees. Hard-" boiled " eggs should be cooked for forty-five to sixty minutes at 180 to 190 degrees, or they will be tough and not mealy. If cooked below boiling point they will be more easily digested. Should the shell crack, pierce several small holes with a pin to keep contents from flowing out. Good results with soft cooked eggs can be obtained if attention is given to details, and if the cook will only remember the experience gained the last time she cooked an Qgg in the same way. It is a safe rule, if one does not have a thermometer, to keep the water below boiling point. A double boiler is a splendid device for just this process, as the water may boil below, while above it can be kept below the boiling point. It is best, however, not to let the water boil even in the lower saucepan. In preparing for an &gg dish of any sort, first break the ^gg by a swift stroke of a knife into a dish that is I30 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK not to be used for the mixing. Then if by mischance the egg is not up to the mark, it can be discarded and will not spoil the rest of the mixture. For poached eggs, have the water a Uttle below 212 degrees, by pouring boiling water from a saucepan into the shallow pan, which has been brushed over with oil or butter. Break the egg carefully into a cup and slip gently into the water, thinking all the time of having It float, so lightly must it be transferred. The egg quickly reduces the temperature to 185 degrees, which is correct for poaching an egg. The top of the yolk should be kept slightly emerging from the water. Let the egg cook gently. Spread some water over the egg with a spoon and when a film has formed over the yolk and when the white is firm, lift each out with a skimmer, drain, smooth the edges with a knife, if necessary, and place on hot toast, which has been prepared beforehand. If the eggs are fresh and cooked correctly, they will not need trim- ming. Put a piece of butter, some pepper and salt on the egg, and serv^e hot on very hot plates. When properly poached the egg is jelly-like throughout and the yolk is covered with a white film. Egg poachers and mufiin rings are often used for poaching eggs. Salt and vinegar are oftentimes put into the water to prevent the soluble albumen from being dissolved. This also adds flavor to the eggs. Half a teaspoonful of vinegar for six eggs will be sufficient. Poaching eggs is no easy matter. Even a hotel chef will admit this; but a little care will bring good results. The varieties of poached and boiled eggs reach the hundreds. The eggs are cooked with cream, sauces, anchovies, and combined with truffles, mushrooms, cheese, sausages, etc., etc. The following recipes are variations of the "boiled" and poached egg: JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 131 Deviled Eggs a la Fromage Cut the desired number of hard-boiled eggs into halves, taking out the yolks and leaving cup-shaped pieces. Mash the yolks to a paste, adding an equal quantity of rich cream cheese, a saltspoonful of paprika, half a tea- spoonful of salt, a little minced parsley, and two table- spoonfuls of cream ; fill into the halves and arrange on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, garnished with stuffed olives. A New Deviled Egg Six hard-cooked eggs, one lemon, one box of sardines, melted butter. Take the yolks out of the eggs, after cutting in half mix with the sardines, season with salt, paprika, and lemon. Add melted butter and put back in the white of the ^gg, which is used as a mold. Egg Plums Dip some hard-boiled eggs for two days in grape juice, to color them ; then stick a twig of plum leaves in one end of each. By the use of artificial leaves, one may serve " ^gg plums " at any season of the year. Serve cold as an hors d'oeuvre. Eggs Bollerino Poach eggs, and make a cream sauce. Chop six or eight mushrooms, add to the cream sauce and place a small sausage, cooked and split in half, on the toast be- fore placing the &gg upon the round. 132 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Poached Eggs with Creamed Celery Arrange poached eggs in a circle on rounds of hot but- tered toast; fill in the center of the circle with two cup- fuls of celery, cut into inch lengths and cooked in boil- ing water until tender (about two hours), then stir it into one and one-half cupfuls of cream sauce. In making the sauce use the water in which the celery was cooked for one half, and the other half cream. Ham and Spanish Eggs Serve poached eggs on thin slices of broiled or fried ham. When served on hot, highly seasoned steamed rice, they are called Spanish eggs. Eggs Poached in Tomatoes Stew slowly for ten minutes half a can of tomatoes and one small onion, cut fine. Season highly with salt and pepper and butter. Break six eggs into a bowl with- out beating, arid when everything else is ready to serve, slip them into the hot tomatoes. Lift the white care- fully with a fork, as it cooks, until it is all firm; then prick the yolks and let them mix with the tomato and white. The mixture should be quite soft, but with the red tomatoes, the white and yellow of the ^gg, quite dis- tinct. Serve at once on toast. Hamburg Eggs Cream two tablespoonfuls of butter, four tablespoon- fuls of soft bread crumbs, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley, seasoning to taste with salt, paprika, and celery salt. Work all to a smooth paste, and with it line small JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 133 individual patty pans that have been brushed with melted butter; break an Qgg carefully into each, and, after dust- ing lightly with salt, cover with a mixture of melted butter and browned bread crumbs, cooking for six min- utes in a hot oven. Serve in the pans garnished with parsley. Whole Eggs with Smoked Beef Hard cook six eggs, let them stand in cold water until cold, and then carefully remove the shells. Heat three cupfuls of milk in a double boiler. Mix one tgg with two tablespoonfuls flour and an equal amount of water until smooth. Pour a little of the hot milk into it and stir quickly, then stir the whole into the remainder of the hot milk for a minute. Add a dash of pepper and set the saucepan on the back of the stove. Season to taste with salt, add the whole eggs and about a third of a half-pound jar of smoked beef to the sauce. Heat through but do not let mixture boil after salt is added. Eggs and Cheese Cream Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, add two of grated cheese and one teaspoonful of minced parsley or chervil. When cheese is melted add four eggs, well beaten, a little salt and paprika, a dash of nutmeg, and one-half tea- spoonful of French mustard. Dust with paprika and serve on toast. Poached Eggs in Milk or Cream Butter an tgg poacher and half fill the pan beneath with boiling water. Break in the required number of 134 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK eggs, and as soon as they begin to grow firm, add two tablespoonfuls of milk or cream. When firm, place upon rounds of buttered toast and season with butter, salt, and pepper. Garnish with parsley. Scrambled Eggs, Crisfield Take two or three spoonfuls of flaked crab meat, warm it in cream, beat four fresh eggs in a bowl, season to taste with salt and pepper, place in a buttered omelet pan, then throw in crab flakes and cream and scramble while cooking. This is sufficient for two. Scotch Eggs Divide one cupful of sausage meat (one-half pound) into four equal portions. Remove four hard cooked eggs from their shells and cover them with the sausage meat. Roll in beaten tgg and bread crumbs, and fry a golden brown in hot deep fat. Cut the eggs through the center and serve on rings of toast. This quantity will serve four. Bread, Eggs, and Bacon in Chafing Dish Cut fresh white or entire wheat bread into half-inch slices, remove crust, and cut in half-inch cubes. Put one tablespoonful of butter in the chafing dish, add three cupfuls of the bread, and toss it in the butter until it has absorbed the butter and is slightly colored. Add four tablespoonfuls of bacon fat and a dusting of salt and pepper. Toss again, and when the fat is absorbed add three well-beaten eggs, and as soon as they are slightly JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 135 cooked serve, surrounded with bacon, which has baked or dehcately sauted. This breakfast dish will serve four. Eggs au Gratin Remove shells from five hard-boiled eggs, and cut into small pieces. Make a thick and richly seasoned milk gravy, and fold in the eggs. Fill six green pepper shells with this, sprinkle grated cheese and bits of butter on tops, and brown in oven. Serve on chop plate, and gar- nish with watercress or parsley. Eat hot, — with toast sticks, made of bread cut into long strips, which have beer browned in deep fat, seasoned, and drained, but kept hot. Baked Eggs with Cheese Butter a baking platter and cover it with a layer of grated cheese ; break six eggs upon it, cover with a layer of cheese and dust with salt, pepper, and paprika. Pour over it half a cupful of cream, cover with soft bread crumbs, rolled in melted butter, then dust with salt, paprika, and a light sprinkling of mustard. Bake until cheese is melted. Piquant Scrambled Eggs Cut two stalks of celery into small pieces, add a slice of chopped onion, and cook in boiling salted water until tender; drain, dredge lightly with flour, and saute in butter until brown. Beat four eggs, add three table- spoonfuls of milk, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of paprika, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley; pour 136 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK into the pan containing the celery and cook, stirring con- stantly, until the whole is a light, creamy mass. Serve on triangles of hot toast, garnishing with watercress and a few grilled sardines, if liked. Belmont Eggs Brown some slices of bread in the oven. Do not toast them but lay them in a rather hot oven till slightly brown. Moisten in warm salted milk and butter them. Break eggs carefully one at a time into a cup and slip into simmering salted water one inch deep in a saucepan. Toss the water over the yolks till a delicate pink. Slip on to the toast, one to a slice, and surround with chopped meat heated in butter. Eggs a la Golden Rod Cook four eggs for forty-five minutes, and when they are cold shell and dice them; meanwhile prepare a rich cream sauce by adding to one and one-half tablespoonfuls of melted butter the same quantity of flour, when thor- oughly blended add two cupfuls of hot milk; as soon as the sauce boils season it highly with salt and paprika, adding the eggs and a heaping cupful of grated cheese; cook only until the cheese is melted and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast. An English Egg Select a small, firm tomato. Cut out the stem end and scoop out the seeds and soft center. Sprinkle with salt and turn upside down to drain. Then sprinkle with pepper and finely chopped parsley. Break a raw Qg^ into JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 137 the tomato and add salt and pepper. Arrange the pre- pared tomatoes (not too close together) in a buttered pan and place in a hot oven for a few minutes. Cheese Timbales Beat four eggs slightly, add one cupful of milk, one- half teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful pepper, ten drops onion juice, and one-half cupful of grated cheese. Pour into buttered cups or timbale molds, set molds in a pan of hot water, and bake until firm. They may be tested as any baked custard, by putting the point of a knife into the center of the custard. If it comes out with no custard clinging to it, the timbale is done. Remove from mold to a hot platter, and serve with a cream of tomato sauce. Cereal Omelet To one cupful of any cold cooked cereal add two well- beaten eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, a few grains of paprika, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Melt one tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan, turn in the mixture, and cook with moderate heat until firm. Fold, turn out upon a hot platter, and garnish with bacon. Rice Omelet One cupful of cold boiled rice, one cupful of warm milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one level tea- spoonful of salt, one-eighth of a teaspoonful of pepper, three well-beaten eggs. Melt one tablespoonful of butter 138 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK in a hot frying-pan, and pour in the mixture. Bake in a hot oven ; fold over once, and serve on a hot platter. Cheese Custard Cut bread into slices one inch thick; remove crusts, and cut into cubes. Butter a baking dish, and put in a layer of bread cubes, then a layer of grated cheese ; pro- ceed until two cupfuls of cheese have been used. Mix together one beaten tgg. one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one and one-half cup- fuls of milk. Pour over cheese, and bake until nicely browned. Serve at once. Omelet Lattard One cupful of eggplant cut in dice, one cupful of bacon cut in dice, one-half cupful of apple cut in dice. First place a piece of butter in a pan. When melted add the bacon, the eggplant, and then the apple in succession, so that they will all be cooked tender at the same time. Season with salt and pepper. When done, take them out of the pan with a perforated spoon or skimmer, so as to leave the butter in the pan. In the meanwhile beat the five fresh eggs, adding a tablespoonful of cold water (not milk or cream) and seasoning to taste. Proceed to make the omelet in the pan containing the stock in which the above ingredients were cooked. As soon as the eggs begin to harden, throw in the garniture of eggplant, bacon, and apple. When the omelet comes to a satisfactory turn, fold, dish out, and serve, adding over it a little of the residue in the pan, if there be any. JUST HOW TO COOK EGGS 139 Potato Omelet Beat the yolks of three eggs very Hght. Season one cupful of mashed potatoes with one saltspoonful of salt, one-half cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of sifted flour, a little chopped parsley, pepper to taste, and a little lemon juice, if liked. Beat the yolks of the eggs into this, then the well beaten whites. Heat an omelet-pan, butter, and when piping hot, pour the potato omelet into it. Brown lightly, turn, and serve very hot. Spinach Omelet Make a French omelet, using four eggs, four table- spoonfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and pepper. Have the omelet pan hot, put into it one table- spoonful of butter, and turn in the egg mixture. As the tgg sets, lift with a knife, never allowing it to become hard. When nearly all the egg is firm, begin to fold the omelet; turn onto a bed of spinach, and serve at once. Any left-over spinach may be reheated with cream and butter and be used for this omelet. Bacon and Potato Omelet Cut three slices bacon in tiny dice and fry until crisp. Add to fat and bacon dice two cold boiled potatoes, cut in small cubes, and season well with salt and pepper. Beat two eggs slightly, pour them over the bacon and potatoes. Cook until the eggs are set, then fold like an omelet. Eggs in Baked Potatoes Scrub and bake six large potatoes. When quite done, prick to let out the steam, then cut off the tops length- I40 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK wise of the potatoes. Remove the potato, mash, and season. Use plenty of milk, two tablespoonfuls or more of butter, salt, paprika, and a grating of nutmeg. Half fill the potato shells with the mixture and arrange in a baking pan. Break six eggs, and slip one into each potato case. Cover with grated cheese and buttered seasoned crumbs and bake in a moderate oven until brown and the eggs are set. Ripe Olive Omelet Beat four eggs slightly, add four tablespoonfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. Heat three tablespoonfuls of olive oil in an omelet-pan, add the tgg, and as soon as it begins to set, lift, letting the uncooked mixture run to the bottom of the pan. Continue until the egg is set but creamy in appearance. Add one-half cupful of ripe olives, cut in strips ; fold the omelet, and serve with or without a sauce. For a luncheon dish, however, the follow^ing sauce is good : Ripe Olive Sauce Brown two tablespoonfuls of butter; add three table- spoonfuls of flour, and continue the browning. Then add one cupful of brown stock, or one cupful of boiling water and one teaspoonful of meat extract, and cook until thickened. Season with salt, pepper, and paprika, and add one-fourth cupful of ripe olives (cut into small strips), and one tablespoonful each of chopped red and green peppers. MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 141 142 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS 143 144 MORE WAYS OF COOKING EGGS FISH By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. OMMONLY, we discriminate in our ideas of animal products between fish, fowl, and flesh. From a nutritional point of view, there is, however, little difference between them. They all are composed essentially of two principal ingredients, namely, protein, which is the ideal tissue builder, and fat, which is the ideal source of heat and energy. But although from a chemical point of view they are of about equal value nutritionally, they appeal in quite a different way to the taste of the consumer. Fish, as a continued diet, would soon pall upon the appetite. It, therefore, should not be used at every dinner. This statement may be modi- fied, however, when we include with fish the shellfish, such as the oyster, the crab, the clam, and the lobster. By reason of the different properties of these foods, it is entirely possible to serve one of them every day at some one of the meals without overstepping the bounds of gustatory propriety. As foods, fish are quite the equal, weight for weight, with meats, with the exception, of course, of the oyster and the clam, which contain a great deal more moisture than the ordinary fish, the crab, or the lobster. From a nutritional point of view, fish is an unbalanced diet; that is, it consists largely of protein. It is, therefore, proper to eat with fish a highly starchy adjuvant, such as rice, potatoes, or bread. I do 145 146 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK not mean by this that these should necessarily be a part of the fish course. In my opinion, the best way to eat fish is to eat nothing with it but the sauce-, and very little of that. The vegetables and other adjuvants of the meal are best served separately. One important thing about a fish diet is that there are many varieties, such as the herring and the cod and the salmon, which occur in such large quantities as to render them relatively cheap sources of protein. It is true that fish are often sold at a high price through the manipulations of the market at or near the source of supply, but they are the cheapest form of animal food available. Fish, when fresh, should be distinctly fresh, and when cured should be well cured. The intermediate conditions are danger- ous. Those who live near the source of supply can well afford, economically and dietetically, to increase their rations of fish, and all could profitably increase the amounts of dried fish used. Dried herring, salmon, haddock, and cod, offer a most palatable and economic method of increasing the proteins in the ration, a lesson that our European brothers have learned and applied to their profit. Our American cooks show a painful lack of ingenuity in adapting the less palatable and less ex- pensive fish and meats by skillful cooking and the use of sauces as is done abroad. In Germany classes were es- tablished to teach the art of cooking fish and thus extend and improve the menu at small cost. The fish recipes offered have, therefore, an economic value as well as an interest from the gustatory and nutritional point of view. JUST HOW TO COOK FISH ISH should be a great resource of the house- wife. Its use not only adds another course, another possibility, but variety and delicious- ness to the diet. In buying fish select those showing plainly that they are fresh; those with bright eyes, firm flesh, shiny scales, red gills, and stiff fins. Beware of one with dull, sunken eyes, dry scales easily loosened, or flesh so soft that it shows an indentation if the finger is pressed against it. Fish is at its best when eaten as quickly as possible after being caught. Frozen fish is perfectly wholesome but should be cooked as soon after thawing as possible, therefore the wise housewife purchases the "fish while frozen and thaws it in her own home, rather than to have the thawing done in the fish market. Frozen fish spoils quickly after thawing, so that this is merely a safe precaution. One cannot hope to find firm flesh in fish that has once been frozen, so that this old-time '' rule for fresh fish " must be disregarded in selecting fish that are shipped frozen. In buying fish we pay for a great deal of waste ma- terial which has to be thrown away. This amounts in some cases to 70 per cent, of the total weight. So it often proves more economical to buy a solid slice from a large fish at a seemingly high price than to buy a whole small fish at a lower price per pound. 147 148 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Preparation for Cooking Did you ever watch a guide or sportsman prepare a fish for broihng over a wood fire on the shore, or in the woods ? The deftness and ease with which he scales and cleans it may be employed with as good results at home. He grasps the fish firmly and scales it first, w^orking from the tail toward the head. The blade of the knife should be held slightly slanting against the fish, so that the scales fall back on the knife. When necessary rinse the blade in cold water and continue to work until no scales are left. Then split the fish open from the gills half way down the lower part of the body, take out the entrails, and wash the fish carefully inside and out. If the fish is small, as smelts, it may be cleaned by cutting a slit at the gills, bending back the head, and pressing the entrails out through the opening. This leaves the body of the fish in better shape than if it were cleaned in the usual way. When fish are bought in market they are generally cleaned and scaled. If necessary, complete the process, being careful to remove every trace of blood which may have remained on the inside along the bone. Wash the fish under the faucet or wipe it off with a damp cloth and then wipe it dry. The fish is now ready for cooking unless it is desired boned. Any fish may be boned, but those with small bones, such as shad, or herring, are not so frequently prepared in this way as cod or haddock, from which the bones may be more easily removed. Before starting work, rub the fingers over with salt, so that the fish may be held without slipping. Then cut ofi: the head, cut down both sides of the fin on the back the entire length of the fish, and pull ofit this strip of skin. Loosen the rest of the skin below the head and pull it ofi:, first on one side of the fish JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 149 and then on the other. Now begin at the tail and work toward the head, scraping the flesh from each side of the backbone and removing the backbone and spine entire. A few small bones will probably be left sticking in the flesh, but these may be easily pulled out. The fish is now in pieces, freed from skin and bone, and ready to cook as desired. These strips of fish are called fillets, and may be used whole or cut into small pieces. Recipes often call for fillets of halibut or other large fish. To prepare these cut off the skin which is around the edge of the slice, remove the bone in the cen- ter, and cut the flesh into pieces the right size for in- dividual service. To Boil Fish Unless one has risen early in the morning and gone in a dory to the salmon weir bringing back her fish with her to be broiled for breakfast or boiled for dinner, she has not known what salmon is. Hard and firm as beef- steak, enticing in color, delicate in flavor, this in its real home is a treat. And salmon, because of its texture and the distribution of the oil in its body, is one of the best of fishes to cook by boiling. Boiling in general is a wasteful and tasteless way of cooking fish, but such firm and well-flavored varieties as salmon and bluefish may be cooked in this way. In the cooking of both meats and fish there is a Scylla and a Charybdis to avoid, and a middle course which must be pursued. Two things have to be kept in view in the boiling of fish — the effect of cold water and the appearance of the fish. Cold water draws out the juices; boiling water wih contract and crack the skin. It is therefore necessary to cook the fish at the simmering point and with care. I50 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Place the fish on a fish rack or sheet, or tie in a piece of cheesecloth, and place in hot water to which has been added a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar or lemon juice to each two quarts of water or stock. Bring quickly to boiling point, then let it cook at the simmering point until thoroughly done, no longer. Count the time from the moment the water reaches boiling point, estimating from five to eight minutes to a pound, depending upon the thickness of the fish, a thick solid fish taking longer than a slim, more delicate one. The fish is done when the flesh separates readily from the bones. When the fish is cooked lift it carefully from the water, drain, remove cloth, and serve on a folded napkin to absorb any extra liquid from the fish. Garnish with parsley or cress, and slices of lemon or beets, and serve with a hollandaise, bechamel, or drawn-butter sauce. • The decrease in nutritive value and flavor when a fish is boiled causes the use of what is called a court bouillon in the place of water. This is merely a stock made by sauteing vegetables, such as celery, carrot, and onion, chopped fine, in butter, adding vinegar, cloves, bay leaf, etc., and boiling with the addition of water until this is well-flavored. The fish is cooked in this, or it may be put in the water and the vegetables, spices, etc., added directly to this for the cooking process. Fish is often marinated before cooking. Brush the flesh over with olive oil and sprinkle it with lemon juice; lay on top, slices of onion and strips of red or green pepper. Drain the fish and cook as desired. Cooked fish which is to be used as a salad is much improved by standing for several hours in equal parts of olive oil and vinegar, a little salt and paprika, and a few drops of onion juice. Drain, mix with salad dressing, and serve on crisp lettuce leaves. JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 151 The Baking of Fish The head and tail may be left on a fish that is to be baked. Fill the cavity with dressing, being careful not to get it so full that there will be no room for expansion of the crumbs during cooking. Sew the sides of the fish together over the dressing, using buttered string, so that it may be easily removed when the fish is served. If the fish is lean and dry, lard it as follows : Cut four or five gashes on each side of the backbone and insert in each a strip of salt pork to furnish fat during baking, thus adding juiciness and flavor to the flesh. When the fish is to be served whole it should be trussed in an upright position, if possible. It bakes more evenly, browns better, and is more easily served. It is better to keep a baking dish or pan to be used solely for fish, the fishy taste being more difficult to remove ; or use paper bags. Dredge the fish with salt and pepper; put pieces of salt pork in the pan under and around the fish, but add no water unless needed. The oven should be hot at first, so that the fish will brown in about thirty minutes. Then reduce the heat and bake the fish slowly for a second half-hour, basting it often with the fat in the pan. Slices or fillets of fish are often baked in milk in an earthen dish, and are delicious. The bone may be re- moved from the center of a slice of fish, the cavity filled with dressing, and the top covered with buttered crumbs. Bake for about thirty minutes, and serve with a cream or hollandaise sauce. Small pieces of fish can be cooked with vegetables in a casserole very much as meat is cooked, and are a novelty. The Broiling Process Any small, flat fish may be broiled, or a slice from a large fish used. An oily fish, however, is much better 152 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK cooked in this way than a dry fish, as the fat present prevents the flesh from becoming hard. In fact, there are certain fish that connoisseurs say should be cooked in no other way. If a whole fish is to be broiled, remove all scales, and split the fish down the backbone. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and if the flesh of the fish is dry instead of oily, spread it with soft butter or olive oil. Heat a wire broiler and grease it thoroughly with a piece of salt pork. Place the fish inside the broiler, with the thin part in the middle folded over so as to have a fish of even thickness. Hold the flesh side near the heat until browned ; turn and brown on the skin side. Broil slowly on the flesh side for about twenty minutes more, then broil on the skin side for ten. Remove from the broiler to the serving platter, garnish, and serve. If the broiling is to be done in a gas stove, the fish may be placed in a greased tin, skin side down, and put under the flame in the broiling oven. Leave the burners on full until the fish is nicely browned; then turn them down as low as possible and let the fish cook for about thirty minutes. A planked fish is prepared in a similar way, except that the fish is cooked on an oiled plank instead of a tin. Before serving, a border of mashed potatoes is piped around the fish and browned slightly in the oven, vege- tables are added, the plank is garnished as elaborately as desired, and sent to the table. How to Fry Small fish or fillets of large fish may be covered with egg and crumbs and fried in deep fat. Wash the fish and dry them thoroughly, being careful not to bruise the JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 153 flesh. Roll in Qgg, slightly beaten and diluted with two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and cover with fine bread crumbs. Or, if you prefer, dip the fish in a thin batter. The outside of the fish must be completely covered with something which will cook instantly when plunged into the hot fat. Have enough hot fat in a deep frying pan to entirely cover the fish. Put a few fish in a frying basket at a time and brown in hot fat. Drain on brown paper and serve with tartare or some other as highly seasoned sauce. Extreme care must be taken, especially in frying fish, to cook long enough to be thoroughly done, but not so long that flesh becomes dry and hard. The three points to observe in successful frying are to have the fat smoking hot, a fat-proof covering over the fish, and that after frying the fish should be thoroughly drained before serving. Sauted Fish To saute means to brown first on one side and then on the other in a small amount of fat. Rich, oily fish should not be cooked in this way, as they are already too rich in fat, which changes in flavor if allowed to cook from the fish and become overheated. Wash the fish and wipe dry. Season with salt and pepper, cover with Indian meal or white flour. Cook some salt pork in a hot frying pan until the fat is well tried out. Put in the fish and let them cook until nicely browned on both sides. Be careful not to have the fire so hot that the fish will burn before it cooks through. Halibut in Lemon Sauce Three pounds of halibut, cut into pieces, four inches long and one inch thick, two onions, medium size, sliced 154 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK thin, two cupfuls of water, three tablespoonfuls of oil, one tablespoonful each of ground ginger and mace, and one-eighth teaspoonful of red pepper dissolved in one cupful of boiling water, one cupful of strained lemon juice, three tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, three eggs, one-half cupful of canned tom.atoes. Wash the fish, then salt it, let it stand for two hours ; take the water, onions, and oil, and boil until the onions are cooked, then pour this into a bowl. Put the fish in a saucepan, pour the onion mixture over the fish, also the dissolved spices and tomatoes ; boil until the fish is cooked. Beat the eggs and flour together, then add the lemon juice, pour a little of the gravy that is on the fish into this, beat well so that the eggs will not curdle, pour this on the fish and let it simmer for a few minutes, place the fish on a platter, and the sauce in a gravy bowl. Set aside to cool. Any fish can be used, but it will not be as rich. Baked Halibut From a slice of halibut about four inches thick, care- fully remove the bone and spread the fish apart. Fill the hole with bread dressing seasoned with butter, salt, a very little onion and sage. Cover the top with thin slices of bacon. Place on a rack in a baking pan with a little water and baste until baked. Set the bacon aside, and when ready to serve, place around the fish. The bacon will burn if left on the fish until baked. Thicken the gravy and serve separately. Mexican Codfish Saute to a pale yellow a small onion chopped fine, in three tablespoonfuls of butter; then add two tablespoon- JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 155 fuls of flour, half a green pepper minced, and a cupful of stewed and strained tomato pulp. When the sauce reaches the boiling point, add half a pound of flaked cod- fish that has been slightly freshened in cold water, and parboiled ; simmer slowly for ten minutes, and serve very hot, garnished with triangles of fried bread. Planked Salmon with Potato Balls Have the salmon cut in steaks one and one-half or two inches thick. Two steaks of average size can be placed on a medium-sized plank. Oil the plank thoroughly, place the fish upon it, and broil under a gas broiler, turning the flame low after the first few moments. Or it can be baked in the oven of a range. Serve on the plank, surrounded by potato balls cut with a French vegetable cutter. Heat one-fourth cupful of cream, add salt and. pepper, and three tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley. Shake the potato balls in this until well covered with the seasonings. Serve hollandaise sauce with the planked salmon. Baked Salt Mackerel Soak one large mackerel over night, drain and rinse in clear water. Place in a well-buttered casserole with the flesh side up. Or better still, cook the mackerel in a well-buttered paper bag. Cover the fish with two table- spoonfuls of melted butter and sprinkle well with finely grated bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper or paprika. If the mackerel is not baked in the paper bag add two tablespoonfuls of water, being careful not to get it on top 156 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of the mackerel, which would destroy its crispness. Bake in a moderate oven until the crumbs are brown and the fish flaky and white. Serve on a platter with thin slices of lemon. Baked Halibut, Spanish Style Have a slice of halibut weighing two pounds cut three inches thick. Place in a buttered pan, cover with one cupful of tomatoes (canned, or three fresh ones), one thinly sliced onion, one chopped green pepper, salt, pep- per, one cupful of water, and one-fourth cupful of but- ter. Bake slowly until fish is done, and serve with the vegetables. Codfish Puff Pare and slice enough potatoes to make one pint, add one pint of codfish picked in small pieces. Place in a saucepan, cover with cold water and bring slowly to boiling point. Drain off this water, cover with boiling water, and cook until the potato is done ; drain and mash fine. Alelt one tablespoonful of butter, add the same amount of flour and rub smooth ; add one and one- half cupfuls of milk, then the flsh and potato mixture, and cook five minutes. Cool, add the beaten yolks of three eggs, then the beaten whites, turn into a buttered baking dish, and bake slowly thirty-five minutes. Serve immediately as for any souffle. Salpicon of Codfish Prepare rounds of crisp buttered toast, covering each with a layer of minced button mushrooms, season highly JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 157 with salt and paprika, and heap upon each toast circle a tablespoonful of flaked boiled codfish ; place in a shal- low baking pan, pour over a rich hollandaise sauce and bake in a moderate oven until heated through. Serve immediately, garnished with crisp, blanched celery. Creamed Codfish Soak over night some good salt codfish. In the morn- ing, drain, and cut into small pieces. To one cup of fish add two cupfuls of cold boiled potatoes cut into cubes. Season with salt and pepper, and add cream enough to cover. Cook slowly one-half hour. The cream thickens by evaporation, and the potatoes and fish are very deli- cate prepared this way. Serve with fresh tomatoes, dressed with oil and vinegar, in the season of tomatoes. Salmon Jelly Salad Soften one tablespoonful of granulated gelatin in two tablespoonfuls of cold water; add half a cupful of boil- ing water, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a tea- spoonful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. Strain and place the bowl in ice water; stir until it begins to stifi^en, then add one cupful of cold flaked salmon, half a cupful of finely cut celery, and two table- spoonfuls of peas. When stiff enough, fill small indi- vidual molds, which have been wet with cold water, and chill. Turn out upon lettuce leaves and garnish with mayonnaise. Salmon Shells Remove all skin, bones, and oil from a one-pound can of salmon. Break into bits. Add a chopped boiled 158 THE PURE FOOD COOK POOK egg. Add one cupful of bread (one day old). Stir into thickened cream, a cupful for this amount. Fill green pepper shells. Top off with butter, and bread or cracker crumbs. Bake till brown, and serve. Parisian Salmon The salmon should be cut if possible from the middle of the fish in rather thick slices. After it is washed and dried, wrap it securely in cheesecloth and let it sim- mer until tender in soup stock, to which have been added a bay leaf, two chopped onions, a stalk of celery, one diced carrot, and some parsley, then drain and place on a hot platter, pouring over the following sauce : Place in the upper part of the double boiler a cupful of milk, adding, when hot, half a teaspoonful of meat extract, salt, and celery salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of corn- starch dissolved in a little cold water; be sure the sauce boils at least twice, and then stir in a cupful of asparagus tips. Serve garnished with a border of mashed potatoes and a tiny circle of green peas. Salmon Salad A can of salmon makes a delicious salad if used in any of these combinations : a few finely cut capers and a stalk of celery; a diced cucumber, and a quarter of a Bermuda onion finely shaved; two tomatoes sliced, and four small cucumber pickles, minced finely. In all these the salmon is marinated, broken into pieces, and the mayonnaise dressing, in w^hich the vegetables have been lightly tossed, is poured over one large mound of salad or individual small ones. JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 159 Molded Mackerel Clean and cut a small mackerel in thick slices. Place in a kettle, cover with three cupfuls of cold water, and add one slice of onion, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf, two whole cloves, and six peppercorns (whole pepper) ; simmer for an hour. Remove the fish and separate into pieces freed from skin and bones. To the liquor in which the tish was cooked, add one tablespoonful of gelatine, which has been soaked in one-fourth cupful of cold water. Season with salt and pepper. Strain into molds, which have been wet with cold water, placing pieces of the mackerel in the bottom. Chill, unmold on lettuce leaves, and serve with the following sauce: Beat one- half cupful of cream until stiiT, add two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one- fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and one tablespoonful of vinegar. New England Fish Chowder Select a good haddock or cod. Cut in small pieces. Slice a two-inch cube of salt pork into strips, place in a stew pan, and fry out the fat. Remove the pork, and put in a layer of fish, then a layer of sliced onions, and alter- nate in this way until all the fish is used. Mix some flour with as much water as will fill the pot, season with pepper and salt, and boil for half an hour. Have ready some crackers, which have been softened by soaking in cold water, butter each cracker a little, then put them in the chowder just before serving. Fish Stew Clean and cut into pieces any variety of fish, includ- ing clams or lobster — or use again any cooked fish. Allow i6o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK a half-pound for each person. Place in a casserole a cupful of oil, with an onion, two tomatoes, a tablespoon- ful of finely chopped parsley, three crushed cloves of garlic, a bay leaf, some fennel, a little orange rind, a pinch of saffron, and a dash of cayenne pepper; place over a brisk fire for three minutes ; then add the fish, the firmest pieces first ; cover with boiling water, allow to boil hard for twelve minutes. Pour the bouillon over slices of toasted bread. Serve the fish with bones re- moved, in a separate dish. Cream of Fish Soup Whenever one has boiled fish, or perhaps baked fillets of haddock, the head and bones should be saved. Put into a kettle, cover with cold water, add a slice of onion and carrot, a bit of bay leaf, and cook slowly for an hour. Strain off the liquor, and for each quart add two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour cooked together. Boil five minutes, season with one teaspoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and add one cupful of thin cream. Let this boil up once, season more if neces- sary, and, just before serving, add two tablespoonfuls of finely chopped parsley. Sometimes one might have a few peas left from dinner, and they may be added to the soup, or a tablespoonful of carrot dice, giving a touch of color, as well as adding flavor. Broiled Oysters a la Francais Butter ten scallop shells and place four or five oysters in each. Alince one large onion, and half a clove of JUST HOW TO COOK FISH i6i garlic, and cook in five tablespoonfuls of butter until a delicate brown. Add oyster liquor, with a half-cupful of water, one cupful of crisp bread crumbs, and one tea- spoonful of minced parsley ; season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Mix thoroughly and fill scallop shells. Dot them with bits of butter and place shells on a tin sheet. Broil quickly and serve at once. Scalloped Oysters Crush a dozen unsweetened crackers and put a layer in the bottom of a well-buttered bake-dish. Wet this with the liquor of the oyster juice, and milk warmed together. Then add a layer of oysters. Sprinkle with salt and white pepper, and dot with bits of butter. Then add another stratum of the moistened crumbs, and pro- ceed in this order until the dish is full. The topmost layer should be of crumbs and thicker than the rest. Beat the yolk of an tgg into what is left of the oyster liquor and milk, and moisten the uppermost layer with this. Stick bits of butter thickly all over it and bake, cov- ered, for half an hour. Then uncover and brown lightly. There is no more delightful preparation of oysters than this. Savory Shrimps in Chafing Dish Melt one tablespoonful of butter in the blazer and add two or three drops of onion juice; add one cupful of cream and one cupful of boiled rice. Shred one can of shrimps, which have been well washed in cold water, and add to the mixture. When thoroughly heated, add i62 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK half a cupful of tomato catsup. Season with salt and pepper if necessary, and serve on crackers or toast. Crabs and Shrimps, Spanish Style For this purpose use the best quality of canned shrimps or crabs, if fresh ones are not obtainable. Cook two tablespoonfuls of butter with one of minced green pepper, one-half teaspoonful of minced o^ion, and one table- spoonful of chili sauce, or tomato catsup, until brown. Put away until required. Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one of flour, add one-half cup of rich milk, and when boiling add the green pepper mixture, one- half cup of shrimps, and the same of crabs, or use but one of these and a few fresh mushrooms cooked in butter. These could be cooked in the chafing-dish pan before making the sauce. Crab Rabbit Prepare this on the chafing dish and have the toast made beforehand. Melt three teaspoonfuls of butter, and add to it two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cook this well, then add one and one-fourth cupfuls of cream, and cook until it is thick, not allowing it to boil ; season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and a little minced parsley; add to it one and a half cupfuls of chopped, boiled crab meat; when it is well heated add three tablespoonfuls of Parmesan cheese and two teaspoonfuls of Worcester- shire sauce. Flaked Crab Meat in the Chafing Dish Utilize the contents of a can of crab meat and with a silver fork flake it into small pieces, adding two chopped JUST HOW TO COOK FISH 163 hard cooked eggs, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, and salt and paprika to taste ; meanwhile prepare in the chafing dish about two cupfuls of rich cream sauce, by blending together two even tablespoonfuls each of melted butter and flour and adding one cupful of milk or cream ; be sure that the sauce boils, then stir in the other ingre- dients, and serve on rounds of hot buttered toast, gar- nishing each portion with a little grated tgg yolk. This can be served in crab shells. Hollandaise Sauce Beat one-half a cupful of butter to a cream. Add the yolks of three eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly into the butter. Season with salt and paprika or a few grains of cayenne pepper. The sauce should not be hot with pepper. Put the mixture into a double boiler, gradually add one-half a cupful of boiling water, and cook, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens. Add one teaspoonful of lemon juice and remove from fire. The curdling oc- curs when the sauce is overcooked or heated. The eggs then cook hard in grains, and it gives the appearance of curdling. Drawn Butter Sauce Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, gradually add two tablespoonfuls of flour and one cupful of boiling water. When smooth and cooked sufliciently, add one-fourth teaspoonful of salt and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. Lobster Sauce Boil a small lobster and remove meat. Place bones and tough meat at end of claws in a sauce-pan with three i64 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK cupfuls of cold water, a slice of onion, and of carrot, sprig of parsley, bit of bayleaf, and a few peppercorns. Simmer for half an hour — and strain off the liquor. Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and pour on one cupful of the strained liquor. When thickened, add one-half cupful of cream, and salt and pepper to taste, also one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and the meat of the lobster cut in small pieces. If one wishes to use the meat for a salad, the sauce is ex- cellent in flavor without the pieces of meat. Mock Hollandaise Melt one tablespoonful of butter; add one tablespoon- ful of flour, one-half cupful of milk, and cook until thickened. Then add one-half cupful of butter a little at a time ; yolks of two eggs, one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of paprika, and a little cayenne. Planked Lake Superior White Fish Procure a large w^hite fish (Isle Royale is best), have it properly boned; cut thin slices of salt pork; have an oak board, long enough for the fish and about one and one-half inches thick ; put slices of pork on the board for a bed upon which to place the fish. Season with pepper, salt, and celery salt. You may add other season- ings if you wish. Bake in a quick oven twenty minutes, or until a delicate brown. When the fish has been cooked twenty minutes, pipe hot mashed potato arotmd the edge of the plank, brush the edges of the potato with the beaten yolk of an tgg mixed w4th a tablespoonful of JUST HOW TO COOK PISH 165 milk, and set the plank in a hot oven to brown the edges of the potato and finish cooking the fish. Garnish with lettuce and thin slices of lemon. Serve hollandaise sauce with this. Creamed Salt Codfish Soak the fish overnight in cold water. Drain, and cut or pick the fish into small pieces, having two cupfuls. Into an iron frying-pan put the fish, with three table- spoonfuls of butter, and sprinkle over two level table- spoonfuls of flour. Stir until butter is melted, then add enough milk just to cover the fish, and allow this to cook slowly until thickened. Season with pepper and salt, if necessary, and just before serving add one slightly beaten ^gg, mixed with a little of the liquid. Serve on toast, or in a deep dish, garnished with triangular pieces of toast. Cape Cod Creamed Fish and Potatoes Soak salt codfish for several hours in cold water. Drain and cut into small pieces. Cut cold cooked potatoes into dice, and mix with the fish, having equal quantities of fish and potatoes. Put into a saucepan with them sufficient cream to cover the fish and potatoes ; sea- son to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika, and cook slowly until cream thickens, about forty minutes. Shad Roe Croquettes Cover one set of shad roe with boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer twenty minutes. Drain, remove the membrane with a silver fork, and mash the i66 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK roe. Season with a teaspoonful of grated onion, a half- teaspoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne, a grating of nut- meg, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Heat a half-pint of milk in a saucepan; when hot, stir in two level tablespoonfuls of butter rubbed with the same amount of flour. When smooth, take from the fire and add a half-cupful of soft bread-crumbs, two hard- boiled eggs chopped fine, and a dash of black pepper. Add the shad roe ; mix, and cool. Then form into cylinders, dip in ^gg beaten with a tablespoonful of water, roll in dry bread-crumbs, and fry in deep, hot fat. MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 167 i68 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH 169 170 MORE WAYS OF COOKING FISH POULTRY By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. |^=^==ijLOSELY related to fish is poultry. Poultry li^ CX il ^^^ fallen into partial disfavor in this coun- try by reason of the insanitary methods of handling it. There is perhaps a greater quantity of unfit poultry offered on the American markets than any other one kind of food. Things are getting very much better now since Dr. M. E. Pennington, of the U. S. Department of Agriculture, has studied and made public the proper methods of handling poultry from producer to consumer. In years gone by, immense quantities of poultry have been put into cold storage in an unfit state and, naturally, they were not improved when taken out. Cold storage, however, may be used with advantage, both with fish and poultry, and other food products, when these products are in a proper condition to be stored at the time of entry into the warehouse. One objection to poultry at the present day is its high price. We probably pay more for a given amount of nutrition in the form of poultry than in almost any other form of meat. Poultry, therefore, is, when properly preserved and prepared, more a food for the well-to-do than for the poor. 171 JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY FEW simple rules cover the selection of all poultry. In the first place, the bones should be tender; that is, if one places the fore- finger of the right hand in the hollow of the neck (at the elbow of the wishbone) and the thumb of the same hand at the end of the breastbone and then contracts the hand gently, if the bird is young and tender the bone will give ; if it is old and tough, the bone will be stiff and hard, and impossible to bend. The same is true of the wings. If the bones are tender and bend under pressure, the bird is young. There is another test for wings, akin to that used in the testing of fish. If, when the wings are pulled out, they spring back into shape when released, it is a sign of young meat. The same thing is true of the feet of the bird. If, when spread apart, they collapse easily, the bird is young. The breastbone and wingbones may be broken in order to make the unsophisticated think that the bird is young, but it is a simple matter to feel the bones crunch under such circumstances, when one may be fairly certain that the bird is no longer young. Another test is that the skin should be firm and smooth. The color, authorities say, should be yellow. This is not a question of age or youth, but of the breed, and con- sequently is not of special value. On the other hand, hairs are a sign of age, and while it is said that pin- feathers are a sign of youth, this is not true, because the 173 174 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK presence of feathers and the color of them depend upon the breed of the chicken and the time of year it is kihed. Heavy scales on the feet are also a sign of age ; but with a turkey, when the spurs are soft and loose, it is a good sign. In domestic poultry the flesh of the breast and wings will be white, and should be firm and not heavily fatted, while the legs are of dark meat. In game, the meat of the bird throughout is usually dark and the wings will be of a tougher quality than the legs, which is exactly the reverse in the domestic bird. This is because in the one the wings are used in flying, while in the other the legs are the means of locomotion, and in consequence the fibers will be heavier and coarser. The breast of game should, if it is good, be full and firm and rather fat. On the whole, game will have a large percentage of fat in its composition and be less easily digested than chicken or turkey. Chickens which are not a year old are known as broilers, and at the present time are usually incubated. Chickens which are exactly a year old are known as prime roasters, and those over a year old are qualified by the term " fowl.'' The so-called spring chicken, which appears in the market in January, weighs about one and one-half pounds. Fowls are the best from March until June. Turkeys are the best in the winter months. Geese are usually at their best from May until Sep- tember. A goose twelve weeks old is called a " green goose." Young geese are often caUed goslings. The time of the quail and partridge is limited by the game laws, but as a rule we can find them on the market in fall, while we have the plover through the spring and cold storage at other seasons. The grouse comes in the Steamed Squash in Shell. Recipe on Page ^35- Boiled Asparagus. Recipe on Page ji/. JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 175 available at all times of the year, provided we are willing to pay the price. In general, the domestic poultry should be well cooked, and the game served rare. This statement, however, should be qualified by the fact that if the game is white- meated it should be better done. The characteristic flavor is not a sign of tainted meat, as some occasionally think, but of breed and life. Game should never hang any longer than until it is just tender. Chicken a la King (Waldorf) Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and saute in this half of a green pepper, with seeds and midribs removed and chopped fine, and one cupful of fresh mushrooms carefully peeled and broken in pieces. Add two table- spoonfuls of flour and cook until the flour is smooth, but not browned. Add two cupfuls of cream, then put where it will simmer only and cook until the sauce is thickened and the flour thoroughly cooked. Add three cupfuls of cooked chicken, cut in dice, and put the mixture over hot water in a double boiler. Beat one-fourth of a cupful of butter to a cream, add three tgg yolks, one at a time, beating steadily. Stir this into the hot chicken and stir carefully until the ^gg thickens. Be careful not to cook too rapidly, for the sauce should be smooth. Season with onion juice, a few drops of lemon juice, salt, and half a teaspoonful of paprika. Serve at once on toast. Wild Turkey Wipe the cavity of the body with a. dry cloth after rinsing it out with water to which you have added a little 176 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK baking soda. Have ready a rich force-meat made of bread-crumbs, bits of fat pork, chopped very fine, pepper, and salt. Beat in an ^gg and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Use neither onion nor herbs in the sea- soning, for they destroy the " gamey " flavor. Stuff and truss as you would a domestic fowl and lay in the drip- ping-pan. Dash a cupful of boiling water over it to sear the skin and keep in the juices. Roast in a steady oven, allowing twelve minutes to the pound. Baste frequently for an hour with butter and water ; then four times with gravy from the dripping-pan, lastly three times with melted butter. Dredge wdth flour at the last, and froth with butter, to brow^n the whole body. Drain off the gravy, keeping the turkey hot over boiling water ; season with pepper and salt, thicken with browned flour and the giblets, which have been boiled tender arid chopped very fine. Garnish with small sausages and curled parsley. Mint Chicken Cream Pick into small pieces sufficient fresh mint leaves to fill half a cup, covering with boiling water, and allowing it to stand for twenty minutes ; then strain and add a scant pint of chicken stock, stirring in half a tablespoonful of white-wine vinegar, the juice of half an onion, pepper, and salt to taste, and two and a half tablespoonfuls of gelatin softened in four tablespoonfuls of cold water. Simmer slowly only until the gelatin is dissolved and remove from the fire, setting in a cold place, until slightly thickened ; add a cupful of cold diced chicken, two table- spoonfuls of cooked peas, and a scant cupful of stiffly whipped cream ; mold in a ring-mold, placing it directly on the ice to chill and harden. When ready to serve, un- JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 177 mold on a glass platter, filling the center with crisp heart lettuce leaves and garnishing with tiny pink radishes. Roast Turkey, Chestnut Stuffing Select a turkey, preferably a hen turkey, weighing not over ten or twelve pounds. If the family be large, it is better to have two ten-pound turkeys. See that the breast is plump, the legs pliable, and do not be governed by the fact that the skin is white and fair — sometimes they are not so good as those which are darker in color. Have the bird drawn, and if possible the tendons drawn from the legs. Singe, cut neck close to body, remove pin- feathers, and thoroughly scrub the bird inside and out, being careful that it does not stay in the water. Wipe well and stuff, then truss and put in a roasting-pan, breast down. Sprinkle with flour and salt, and place in a hot oven. Baste every fifteen minutes the first hour of roasting, using butter and hot water. After turning the bird over on its back, cover the breast with butter, and brown. If a crust is desired, cream together butter and flour, using twice as much butter as flour. A ten- pound turkey needs three hours to cook, and more time v/ill not hurt it. The heart, liver, and gizzard should be cooked in water until the last is tender. The neck may be cooked with them, and this stock is excellent for making gravy, or if a bread stuffing is used, for moistening the bread. Chop and add them to the gravy. Chestnut Stuffing Blanch one pound of Italian chestnuts, boil till very ten- der, and put through a ricer. Add one cupful of bread- 178 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK crumbs, one-half cupful of shortening, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of poultry seasoning, one-half cupful of seeded raisins, with salt, pepper, celery salt, sugar, and cayenne to taste. ]\Iix thoroughly. This is excellent for poultry and game. Jellied Chicken Sandwiches Chop the meat of a cold chicken with one stalk of celery, or put all through a food-chopper. Season with a little grated onion and minced parsley. Soak one table- spoonful of granulated gelatine in one teaspoonful of water until soft, then add six tablespoonfuls of sweet cream and heat over hot water until the gelatine is dis- solved. Add the chicken meat, lemon juice, salt, and paprika to taste, beat all together thoroughly and pour into a shallow, oblong pan. wet in cold water. Set on ice to chill, then cut in slices to fit the bread cut for sandwiches. Spanish Fricassee of Chicken Cut up a chicken or fowl, weighing about four pounds, in pieces for serving, put in a kettle with five cups of boiling water, and simmer until chicken is tender. Re- move meat. cool, then roll each piece in seasoned flour and fry a delicate brown in fat. A\'ash and cook in the liquor one cupful of rice, (which has been fried in two tablespoonfuls of butter), with one tablespoonful each, of onion and red and green pepper. Add one teaspoon- ful of salt, and one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper. When rice is tender turn on to a platter, and on it arrange the pieces of chicken. Garnish with parsley. JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY 179 Chicken Rechauffe In blazer of chafing dish put one-half tumbler of cur- rant jelly, one cupful of cream, salt and cayenne to taste. Bring all to the boiling point, and in it place slices of cold cooked chicken. Serve when meat is thoroughly heated. Any meat except beef and ham may be utilized in this way. Roast Goose Singe, draw, wash, stuff, and truss a goose. Dredge with flour and salt, and lay strips of fat pork over the breast. Roast in a hot oven two hours, basting frequently with butter and hot water. Stuffing Chop finely two onions, mix with one-fourth cupful of finely chopped pork, and combine with two cupfuls of hot mashed potato and one and one-half cupfuls of soft stale bread crumbs. Add one-third cupful of butter, one beaten Qgg, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, one teaspoonful of sage, and one-eighth teaspoonful of black pepper. Russian Apple Stuffing for Roast Goose Chop two cupfuls of tart apples, Greenings or Baldwins preferred, with one cupful of seeded raisins. Stuff goose and truss as usual. The flavor is delicious and quite different. i8o THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Roman Chicken Cook half a pound of vermicelli and drain thoroughly. Spread upon a platter and cover it with a highly seasoned tomato sauce. Shred the white and dark meat of a small cooked chicken into fibers no larger than a match and lay them upon the sauce. Cut four sticks of celery and a Bermuda onion very fine, season with salt, paprika, a dash of ginger, cloves, and cinnamon (if desired), and cook brown in a little butter. Spread over the chicken and put into the oven to get very hot. Moisten with a little chicken stock if needed and serve very hot. Chicken Curried Cook one tablespoonful of butter with one slice of onion, one-fourth of an apple, sliced, one tablespoonful of grated cocoanut or minced almonds, a little salt and paprika, and one teaspoonful of curry powder dissolved in a little water. When required cook one tablespoonful of butter with one teaspoonful of flour, add one-half cup- ful of chicken stock or gravy, and one cupful of diced chicken mixed with one-half cupful of cream. Add the curry mixture and serve in ramekins. Chicken Cutlets One cupful of chopped cooked chicken, seasoned with one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-fourth teaspoonful of pepper, a few drops of onion juice, and one teaspoonful of lemon juice. Make a sauce, using two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, one-half cupful of cream, and one ^gg] add this to chicken, and cook all JUST HOW TO BUY AND COOK POULTRY i8i together three minutes. Cool, shape in the form of cut- lets, roll in fine bread-crumbs, dip in tgg, roll in crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Serve with a white mushroom sauce. White Mushroom Sauce Drain half a can of mushrooms, and cut in slices. Melt three tablespoonfuls of butter, add three tablespoon- fuls of flour, one cupful of chicken-stock, and cook until thick and smooth. Season with one-half tea- spoonful of salt, one-eighth teaspoonful of pepper, and a slight grating of nutmeg. Add one-half cupful of cream, and the mushrooms. Serve as soon as heated. Fried Chicken Cut up a young chicken in pieces for serving. Roll each piece in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Into an iron frying-pan put sufficient fat, half lard and half butter, to make an inch in depth; lay in the chicken, and cook until brown, turning frequently. Cover closely, re- move to a cooler part of the range, and let cook for twenty-five minutes. Drain on paper and serve very hot. i82 MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY MORE WAYS OF COOKING POULTRY 183 i84 MORE WAYS OF COOKIXG POULTRY MEAT By Harvey W. Wiley, M. D. EXT to cereals, meat in the broad sense of that term, inchiding beef, mutton, and pork, is the most important of our food products. It is important not only from a nutritional point of view, but also because of its eco- nomical aspects. The number of meat ani- mals in this country is actually decreasing for some kinds, while none is keeping pace with the in- crease of population. The natural result of this, aside from manipulation on the markets, is an increasing de- mand and a decreasing supply. This has worked out at the present time into a condition in which the price of meats is higher to the consumer than ever before. This, however, does not affect in any way the value of meat as a food. With all due deference to our vegetarian friends, whose opinions I respect, I am fully convinced that man is an omnivorous animal. He makes a mis- take when he confines his diet to any one particular form of food. Man can thrive quite well, however, on a vegetable diet. Perhaps this should be modified by say- ing on what is generally called " a vegetable diet " be- cause the vegetarian as a rule eats eggs, drinks milk, and uses butter, all of which are animal products. The lean or muscular part of meat is essentially a tissue builder, while the fat is a heat and energy former. Some kinds of meat, as, for instance, beef, can be eaten every dav 185 i86 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK without palling on the appetite. In this respect beef occupies the same position as wheat and some other vegetables. One caution, however, should be presented in regard to meat-eating, and that is that it should not be overdone. There are two reasons for this, one, the economic aspect of the problem, and second, the nutri- tional relations of meat to healthy growth. I should say that for grown people meat once a day is quite sufficient, while for young children who still consume quantities of milk, meat is not at all an essential part of the diet, and in my opinion they are better oi¥ without it. To- day people, especially those who live at hotels and res- taurants, eat too much meat for their own good, and I believe that if meat consumption could be placed on a scientific basis the economic aspects of the problem might well be solved and the demand might not exceed the supply. JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS Tests for Fresh Wholesome Meat RESH, sound, sweet meat is, of course, the only kind to be considered. It is, as a rule, almost odorless, but has a slight fleshy smell that is pleasant to a normal person. The olfactory nerves usually may be depended upon to detect a tainted condition contracted by contact with fish, vegetables, or unclean vessels, cutting-block, or scales; decomposition due to exposure or undue delay in selling the meat ; a strong natural odor such as is sometimes found in the flesh of old animals, especially males ; or a rancid state as in stale cured bacon and ham. There are those who relish meat, especially beef, that has " ripened " by remaining several weeks in cold storage at about 38 degrees Fahrenheit, the degree of ripeness varying from fresh to near-decay according to the time and conditions of storage and the quality of cut or carcass, and the objects being to improve both the flavor and tenderness of the meat. Only fat, mature beef, and mutton usually are subjected to this treatment, and, as a rule, only for such customers as city hotels, clubs, and the commissaries of other large establishments. The dark and sometimes quite moldy surface, high (not to say strong) odor, and the unattractive general appearance of such meats makes it unsuitable for regular retail trade 187 i88 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK because many patrons would consider it unsound ; but when properly handled it is quite as wholesome as other foods which are artificially ripened, such as cheese or fruit. For ordinary use, two days to a week in the chill- room is sufficient. ]\Ieat used less than thirty-six to forty-eight hours after slaughter is likely to be tough. due to a set condition of the muscles called "■ rigor mortis."' Considerable quantities of frozen meat, also, are sold in retail market from late winter to summer, having been stored at about 15 degrees Fahrenheit since the preceding fall. If sold immediately after careful thawing;, it is diffi- cult to distinguish frozen meats from fresh, but as handled in some retail markets they sometimes become soft, flabby, and slimy. "When from animals too young to be suffi- ciently developed for food, veal and spring lamb cuts have gluey or gelatinous flesh and abnormally soft, cartilage-like bone. Such meats should be carefully avoided. Although not necessarily dangerous it is at best repulsive and unwholesome. Judging the Color Perhaps the first characteristic that catches the eye is the color of the steak or chop under consideration. Good beef, when first cut, is a rich, bluish red. which turns bright cherry or pale red when exposed a few minutes. The blue or purplish shade frequently remains until the steak is unwrapped in the kitchen, and is not. as sometimes suspected, an indication of poor or old meat. \'eal varies from almost white to light red, but should be a dull pink to be at its best. Lamb cuts range from ligbt Flank Steak. A Juicy Beefsteak — Tender and Appetizing if Carefully Cooked. Inferior Ham. Choice Ham. Standing Rib Roast. This Cut may be Roasted as it is, or made into a Short Rib Roast by Cutting Off the End at the Left; or the Bone Removed and the Meat Rolled Up. Common Porterhouse Steak from Stripper Loin. Represents Steaks used in Many Districts where Small Markets are Patronized. JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 189 pink to grayish red, according to the age and quaUty of the lamb; and mutton is a dull brick red. Pork from young pigs is nearly white and that from older animals is dull pink or rose color. The fat of all meat should be as nearly white as possible, free from clots and spots, and of a firm, clear consistency. Dark colored flesh, in general, is characteristic of older animals ; is usually more pronounced in males than in females ; and is sometimes due to incomplete bleeding. Generally, therefore, it is not of the best grade. But be not deceived by color, for it sometimes '' happens," in violation of pure food regulations, that meat wears an artificial complexion, purchased at the drug store. Occa- sionally, too, a cut that is abnormally dark in color proves to be all one can desire as to its " eating qualities." The latter statement applies especially to the outer fat which, in beef cuts, is sometimes quite yellow, it applies also to dried and smoked meats, some of which can be appre- ciated only by tasting. Now a few words which will serve to guide the reader to recognize the general appearance of good beef. Be- sides soundness and proper color, a tempting appearance in meat requires good shape — full, thick, and plump ac- cording to the kind of cut — even, smoothly cut surfaces, firm condition and absence of all indications of coarseness in the flesh and bone. Words can scarcely describe that subtle something called general quality; it must be im- pressed by actual observation of the details we are at- tempting to define ; by careful attention, for example, to the size and shape of the " eye " of a rib-roast ; the amount, character, and color of bone, as well as meat in a pork chop, the smoothness, thinness, and quality or rind on a strip of breakfast bacon. As an exception to the rule, the unfavorable influence I90 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK of the ripening process upon external appearance has already been mentioned. Certain kinds of cured meat, as for example V^irginia hams, which hang for a year or two before being used, are most shrunken and un- sightly; but the price commanded by such meats (fifty cents a pound for Smithfield hams) testifies to their inner goodness. Signs of Tenderness Toughness is the shortcoming that causes more com- plaints than any other characteristic of our daily meat; so much so, indeed, that more essential points are usually sacrificed to overcome it. For instance, veal is in con- stant demand even at high prices, merely because it is naturally tender; whereas mature beef is much more nutritious, has a decidedly richer flavor, loses less weight in cooking and, furthermore, if properly cooked, may be made practically as tender. Although no infallible rule can be stated that will cer- tainly indicate w^hether a given cut will turn out tender w^hen cooked, nevertheless careful observation w^ill assist greatly in making a good guess. Look for fine, smooth grain or fiber, little connective tissue, a velvety, pliable feeling, and such consistency that the flesh may be pene- trated with the finger or easily cut with a knife, yet firm in condition rather than soft and flabby. With some ex- ceptions, the fatness of the meat and the degree of " marbling," or distribution of fat throughout the lean, are indications of tenderness ; and a light color shows usually that the cut is from a young animal and should be tender. Whether meat is cut with the grain, or across it, makes much difference in its apparent fineness or coarseness of JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 191 fiber, and this must be considered in judging of tender- ness. Even the tenderloin of beef or of pork looks stringy when cut lengthwise, and the flank steak still more so. Lean meat is made up of elongated cells of muscular tissue, bound into small bundles by a thin white mem- brane called connective tissue. The more of this con- nective tissue, the tougher the meat. Fortunately, how- ever, it is susceptible to softening by heat, which changes it to gelatin ; so that, within certain limits, it is under the control of the cook. By adequate treatment, such as fireless cooking, the natural toughness of cuts from these parts that have been exercised most, like the legs and neck, or cuts from old and poorly fattened animals, may be largely reduced or eliminated ; and thus meat may be selected with due regard not only to tenderness but also to flavor, food value, and economy. " Marbling " in meat, particularly in beef, also softens the connective tissues by filling their cells with globules of fat. Another indication of the degree of tenderness in meat is the texture and color of bone. Comparatively soft, spongy, and reddish colored bones indicate that the cut is from a young animal, while hard, dense, white bones are characteristic of old ones. The '' lamb joint," or " break joint," found on the legs or shanks of lamb is a good illustration of this point. In dressing lambs, the foot is broken off at a suture, or false joint, just above the ankle, while in sheep this suture is knit or ossified, and the foot must be removed at the round joint. Next to tenderness, the greatest satisfaction in eating meat, regardless of the kind, depends upon the juiciness and flavor. Dry, stringy meat is neither palatable, nutri- tious, nor economical; while a juicy cut meets all three requirements. It is the cell substance that makes meats juicy; the cell walls and connective tissue that make it 192 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK stringy. There is a decided difference, too. between meat of a juicy nature and that which is merely watery. The former, as developed in prime beef or mutton, more nearly retains its substance, and shape in cooking, while the latter, as in veal, shrinks largely, due to the loss of water, leaving it comparatively dry and tasteless. Flavor is closely associated with the juiciness of meat. As just indicated, it develops with the growth of the animal, and is therefore most pronounced in mature fat carcasses. A'eal and lamb cuts are deficient in flavoring material as compared with beef and mutton. Generally, too, " the nearer the bone the sweeter the meat," and the cheaper cuts from joints that are exercised most are equal, or superior, in point of flavor, to those from the more tender parts along the back and loin. \\'ell marbled meat has a distinctive flavor, due to the rich taste which the intermingled fat gives it when cooked. Such meat is also more susceptible to ripening in the butcher's cooling-room than very lean or watery cuts. In cured meats, particularly sugar-cured ham and breakfast-bacon, flavor cuts a large figure, and much de- pends upon the methods and materials used in curing and smoking. Being generally sold under brand names, the purchaser has a fairly good guide in the selection of a desired flavor in such meats. It is true that few com- mercially cured meats are equal, and none superior, in palatability to the genuine farm-cured article at its best ; but the latter in these days is almost extinct. We Americans, as compared with the English, pay little attention to the natural flavor of meats, and our penchant for putting artificial relishes on our dishes has almost destroyed our sense of discrimination. To some, how- ever, who still esteem flavor, a choice shoulder-roast of lamb or of pork is equal or superior to the loin, and only JUST HOIV TO BUY MEATS 193 half as expensive; flank steak at eighteen cents is pref- erable to tenderloin at fifty; a choice "California" round roast is as palatable as a high-priced prime rib of beef; and breast of veal or of lamb at ten cents a pound is as good as chops or cutlets at twenty-five. Others, who are possessed both of rich tastes and of ample means, cheerfully pay a premium for beef cuts that have been highly " ripened," or for hams that have been specially selected, cured, smoked, and aged. Choose Meat That Is Fat Although most meat is used primarily for the sake of the protein, or lean tissue that it provides, the pur- chaser makes a serious mistake who objects to the so- called " waste fat " that choice meat must have, or who chooses unfinished lean cuts in order to avoid it. In the first place, the best quality of lean meat requires a sufiicient outer layer of fat to give it good keeping qualities and a sightly appearance, and at least a moderate " marbling " of the cut to make it rich and tender. A roast, steak, or chop of good size should carry, usually, one-fourth to one-half inch of outside fat, and other cuts may have more or less, according to their class and size. Some of those who insist on the leanest bacon would find the thicker, fatter grades equally palatable and cheaper. In the second place, fat meat is two and one-fourth times as nutritious from an energy standpoint as lean, and although a limited amount of it is sufficient for direct use, the remainder need not be wasted, but may be utilized in such forms as gravies and drippings, for which it is as good, or better, than butter. Finally proper cooking, par- ticularly broiling and roasting, is impossible with ex- 194 THE PURE EOOD COOK BOOK tremely lean meat, and the percentage of shrinkage in cooking is high. If, from choice or for economy's sake, lean steak is ordered, it is well to get with it a piece of suet so that it may be made savory and served with its own gravy. The trouble is that our fancied economy is false ; we would better save by selecting a cheaper class of cut, but looking well to its quality. Cuts of Meat Are Not Difficult to Learn Notwithstanding a prevalent impression that the dif- ferent cuts are difficult to distinguish, the truth is that they can be learned readily by anyone ; for the structure of the bones and muscles is a guide that seldom leaves room for doubt as to the identity of any cut in the car- cass. By referring to the diagrams and photographs that accompany these articles, and then closely observing actual cuts that the reader may venture to order from the lists given here, it will be found quite easy, after a little ex- perience, to recognize at a glance any of the cuts that are commonly used. Cuts of the quick cooking kind, given in the following list, may be either broiled or sauted. Steaks and chops, for best results, should be broiled (either grilled or pan- broiled) ; and for that purpose steaks should be cut three-fourths to one inch thick — thicker if desired — and chops one-half to three-fourths of an inch. Thin-cut chuck and round steaks, '' drop tenderloins," and pork or mutton chops may be sauted if hard, overdone meat is preferred, as it is by some people with perverted tastes. Ham, bacon, salt pork, and breaded cutlets also are cooked by this method. None of the meats in this list ever should be actually fried, that is covered completely with hot fat. JUST HOW TO BUY MEATS 195 Quick Cooking Cuts Weight Retail Price Pounds Cents per lb. Porterhouse steak iK to 3 20 to 35 Club steak i to 2 18 to 30 Sirloin steak 2 to 5 18 to 30 Round steak 2 to 5 14 to 22 Top round steak i^ to 3 ' 18 to 26 Chuck steak 2 to 4 12 to 18 Flank steak i to 2 15 to 20 Veal steak i to 2 18 to 25 Pork steak i to ij4 15 to 20 Mutton chops Yz to ^ 18 to 25 Lamb chops i-S to 1-3 20 to 30 Veal chops ^ to ^ 18 to 25 Veal cutlets Ya to i^ 20 to 30 Pork chops /4 to Y2 18 to 22 Salt pork i to 3 12 to 16 Fancy breakfast bacon 1-16 to Yd, 25 to 35 Medium to fat bacon Y?, to Ya 16 to 25 Below are listed those cuts which are of proper size and quality for roasting and baking and require moderately quick cooking. Reasonably fat and tender meat is re- quired for satisfactory results. Besides the cuts named, very thick steaks may be partially broiled and afterwards roasted or baked in the oven ; and breasts of lamb and of veal are sometimes roasted, though generally stewed. Moderately Quick Cooking Meats Weight Pounds Prime ribs of beef (first cut) 4 to 12 Prime ribs of beef (last cut) 4 to 12 Shoulder block roast 4 to 8 Chuck rib roast 4 to 10 Beef rump 4 to 12 Beef tenderloin (fillet) 2 to 6 Reta il ] Price Cents per lb. 18 to 25 16 to 20 12 to 18 12 to 18 12 to 16 30 to 50 196 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Weight Retail Price Pounds Cents per lb. Leg of mutton 6 to 9 15 to 20 Loin of mutton 3 to 6 15 to 20 Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 12 to 15 Leg of lamb 3^ to 6 18 to 28 Loin of lamb 2 to 4 20 to 30 Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 15 to 20 Crown lamb roast 3^ to 6 20 to 35 Hind quarter (spring lamb) 5 to 8 20 to 25 Fore quarter (spring lamb) 5 to 8 15 to 18 Pork loin 2 to 8 16 to 20 Leg of pork 3 to 12 16 to 20 Ham (smoked) 3 to 12 18 to 25 Pork tenderloin ^ to ^ 28 to 35 Pork shoulder 2 to 5 12 to 15 Spare-ribs 1/2 to i 10 to 15 Veal loin 3 to 6 18 to 22 Veal leg (fillet) 3 to 12 16 to 20 Veal shoulder 3 to 8 14 to 18 The cuts that are best for long, slow methods of cook- ing may be subdivided, for convenience' sake, into three classes : boiling meats, stewing meats, and soup meats. The first, as a rule, are from the leaner parts that are more or less toughened by exercise. Some of the cuts listed may be chosen either for this purpose or for roast- ing, according to the quality of meat. Stewing is suitable for fat and fairly tender meats, such as breasts and flanks of lamb; but some lean cuts also are so used. Soups, broths, and beef tea are made from the bony and muscular parts which contain an abundance of flavoring substances. Slow Cooking Meats Weight Retail Price Boiling Meats Pounds Cents per lb. Beef horseshoe piece (end round).. 4 to 8 10 to 16 Beef shoulder clod 3 to 6 10 to 16 JUST HOW TO PUY MEATS 197 Weight Boiling Mea is Pounds Rib end of beef 2 to 6 Cross-ribs of beef 2 to 5 Beef brisket 3 to 8 Corned beef, rump, tiank, plate or brisket 2 to 8 Beef tongue (fresh) 3 to 5 Beef tongue (smoked) 2 to 3 Leg of mutton 6 to 9 Shoulder of mutton 3 to 6 Shoulder of lamb 3 to 4 Leg of pork 3 to 12 Ham (smoked) 3 to 12 Pork shoulder (fresh) 3 to 8 Pork shoulder (smoked) 3 to 8 Pork hocks i^ to 2^ Back-bones and neck-bones 2 to 8 Stewing Meats Beef plate 3 to 6 Beef flank 2 to 6 Drop tenderloin i to 2 Beef skirts i to 2 Beef neck i to 3 Beef shin 2 to 5 Breast of mutton 2 to 4 Breast of lamb i to 2>4 Veal breast 2 to 5 Veal neck i to 2 Soup and Broth Meats Shin soup bones i to 4 Hind shank soup bones i to 5 Knuckle soup bones 3 to 7 Oxtail I to 2 Beef neck i to 3 Beef shoulder clod i to 2 Beef round i to 2 Mutton shouldei i to 2 Mutton neck i to 2 Mutton shanks i to 1^/2 Retc lii : Price Cen1 :sper lb. 8 to 14 8 to 12 8 to 10 10 to 16 15 to 18 25 to 30 15 to 20 10 to 15 15 to 20 16 to 20 18 to 25 14 to 16 10 to 12 8 to 10 8 to 10 8 to 10 6 to 10 10 to I2I/4 8 to ID 8 to 12 6 to 12 6 to 8 8 to i2y2 12 to 15 8 to 10 4 to 6 4 to 8 4 to 6 8 to ID 6 to 10 10 to 14 14 to 22 10 to 15 8 to 10 8 to 10 198 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK Certain cuts may be made most palatable. Such meats are pot roast, braised and browned beef, beef a la mode, " gravy stews,'' and baked meats which are previously boiled. The preparation of meat in most of these ways was more familiar to our grandmothers, in the days of pots and kettles, than to us, who live in the era of gas stoves. But with the modern fireless cooker, even those who have abandoned the coal range may enjoy the meat dishes of old, and, what is better, they may do so without giving the pot any occasion for uncomplimentary remarks to the kettle. Pot roasting is especially adapted to shoulder pot roasts of beef, the shoulder block roast or " Boston cut,'' and the end round cut or "' horseshoe piece." Rumps, bris- kets, shoulder clods, plates, and flanks of beef and shoul- der of mutton are other cuts that are used in this way. Braised beef usually is made from round steak cut two or three inches thick (known as " California roast " or ''Swiss steak"), or from rumps, flanks, or rib ends. Beef tenderloins, mutton chops, ox hearts, and ox joints (tails) also are braised. Boiling followed by baking or oven-roasting is a method of cooking to which smoked hams and shoulders or " picnics " are especially adapted. Broiled breakfast bacon, when extremely salt, is improved for some palates by parboiling first for a minute or two. Very thick steaks may be made well done without burning the sur- face if they are broiled partially and then cooked to the desired point in a hot oven. '' Made-over dishes " in endless variety may be made from many of the meats listed, and especially from the cheaper cuts. In this way five to ten pounds of meat may be cooked and afterwards served in five to ten differ- ent ways, with little loss either of food value or flavor. Sugar-Cured Breakfast Bacon. 1. Extra Lean. 2. Medium. 3. Fat. Bacon i sells 100 per cent. Higher than 3, hut the Quality and Food Value are Similar. 200 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK hearts, livers, kidneys, plucks, and tripe are the prin- cipal products of this kind. By means of skilful cook- ing and seasoning surprisingly palatable and wholesome dishes may be made from many of them. Armed with these specifications, one need never timidly ask for '' boiling meat," for example, but may order by name a cut that is suited to the desired purpose, and ten to one the butcher will select and put it up with special care. Occasional reference to lists like these will assist the novice, at least, to introduce variety, obtain quality, and at the same time observe economy in select- ing meat for the family. JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS HEN the meat comes from the market, after weighing, wipe it thoroughly with a clean cheesecloth wrung out of hot water. Do not wash it. Then compute the time neces- sary for cooking. Beef, if desired rare, should be cooked ten minutes for each pound counted after the first fifteen, twenty, or thirty minutes, depending upon the size of the meat. Take a roast, weighing eight pounds, desired rare : count eighty plus twenty minutes, or one hour and forty min- utes. If dinner is to be at six-thirty, the oven must be ready, and the meat go in promptly at ten minutes of five. If desired better done, it needs to be placed in the oven at four-thirty, as the eight pounds multiplied by twelve minutes equals ninety-six, plus twenty equals one hundred and sixteen, which is two hours within four minutes. JUST HOW TO ROAST MEATS 201 The meat should not be seasoned nor dredged with flour, but placed in a hot oven, whether the piece be large or small. There are directions which say "the smaller the meat the hotter the oven," and others that state exactly the opposite. Let us make this seeming discrepancy quite plain to the beginner. It all depends on the size, but especially the shape of the roast. When a large roast is put in the oven, it takes with it a sufficient proportion of cold to perceptibly lower the heat of the oven, and this has to be regained before the surfaces of the meat can be seared over and prevent escape of the juices. On the other hand, because meat is a poor conductor of heat, the surface of a large piece of meat becomes burned or charred before the heat reaches the interior if the oven be too hot at first. The very hot oven sears or coagulates the surfaces of a small roast quickly, and therefore aids in the retention of the juices in which the meat should cook. Hence, the sensible directions are that the oven should be relatively hotter for the smaller roast than for the large one, and then the heat be more quickly lowered to complete the cooking. The first heat of the oven should be more moderate relatively for the larger piece, but be more evenly maintained. Meat in general should not be seas®ned before cook- ing. Salt has what is called in physics an affinity for water, and when placed on the surface of the meat does not penetrate, but draws the juices of the meat toward the surface, thus rendering the meat tougher and more tasteless. The time to season is when the cooking is finished. We are fully aware of the skepticism raised in the old-fashioned cook's mind by such a statement, but science has proved it correct. And we can only request 202 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK the skeptics to do the fair thing- and try it for them- selves. Let them take two roasts, a week or so apart, as nearly alike as possible, weighing each before and after cooking, salting one and not the other, and not tell- ing the family what has been done. Then record and compare the results in the two. This is the real way to learn " just how." JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK ROILING is but a method of roasting applied to thin pieces of meat. That is, in broiling or grilling, the steak or chop is exposed to the direct rays of the fire, whether it be coal, gas, or electricity. A perfect steak should be cut one and one- half inches thick and cooked quickly over a hot fire, so that both sides are browned, the interior being of an even red color. The steak should be pufifed and elastic from the confined steam of the juices, and every particle of juice and flavor should be preserved, not lost in the cooking. To do this, first remove the superfluous fat from the meat; heat the broiler and grease it well with a piece of this fat. Lay the steak on the broiler with the skin or outside edge toward the handle. This is done because as the broiler is turned it is tipped down, therefore the melting fat runs on to the meat instead of into the fire, if the steak is placed right. The coals should be red and hot, not black nor burned white. Put the broiler close to the coals and count ten slowly. Turn and count again. In this time, if the fire is right and the steak can be JUST HOW TO BROIL BEEFSTEAK 203 sufficiently near, the surface will be seared over so the juices will be retained. Repeat this, however, then hold the broiler further away from the coals or fire, that the steak may cook more slowly. If the meat is broiled too near the fire all the time of cooking, the outside will be overdone, the inside underdone. If it be held too far away from the fire all the timeJt will lose its juices and be flat, and lacking in flavor. When broiling steak one catmot, or should not, try to attend to other things. It requires constant attention ; for the steak should be turned every ten seconds, for a period of eight to ten minutes, according to the thick- ness of the steak. When the fat runs into the fire no special harm is done, unless the steak is permitted to absorb the smoke, when it occasionally gets a smoky taste. The flame will not hurt it, the smoke may. When properly done, little or no fat or juices will run into the fire. When cooked it will be just the right brown, and this look one learns only by experience. Moreover it will be puffed up be- tween the wires of the broiler and will offer a slight re- sistance to the touch. If in doubt remove the broiler to a dish on a table and make a clean cut on one side with a sharp knife. Do not before, after, or during cooking, pierce the steak with a fork, but learn to judge by time and appearance as to the condition of the meat. If the steak is preferred well done the process is more difficult, but after the first quick searing over, which must be done as rapidly as possible, remove the steak farther from the heat and cook for a long period. It is even more necessary to turn it frequently when desired well done than when cooked rare, if one wishes a per- fectly broiled steak. Cook for twelve or thirteen minutes 204 THE PURE FOOD COOK BOOK if wanted well done when the steak is an inch and a half thick. A thin steak requires careful handling, but can be cooked relatively more quickly than a thicker one, when desired well done. A steak two inches thick will take from fifteen to eighteen minutes to broil rare, and needs constant attention. \Miile broiling over a coal fire the flue dampers should be open, to carry flame and odors up the chimney. Do not let the steak stand before serving if it can be avoided. Dredge with salt and pepper after, not before, cooking, and when ready to serve spread with butter and garnish with parsley. Pan-broiling means to broil in a hot pan in place of over the coals. It should not be confused with frying, sauteing, or any such method. The hot pan should be rubbed with a piece of fat just as the broiler is greased to keep the steak from sticking, and the steak broiled in it precisely as described for broiling over the coals. The pan should be very hot at first, the steak seared on both sides, then allowed to cook more slowly, but turned every ten counts as carefully as if over the coals. In lifting to turn it put the fork in the extreme end of the steak, if a fork must be used. Any fat that runs out of the steak in cooking should be poured ofit in order to prevent the fried look or taste that will result if the meat is sauted in its own fat. Beef Loins of First, Second, and Third Grades. Sirloin Steaks arc Cut from the Surface Shown. Note the Differences in Shape, Thickness, Outside Fat, Mar- bling, Grain, and Quality of Meat. Beef Loin, Third Grade. Beef Loin, Second Grade. Beef Loin, First Grade. oo «-3 fVl "^J <\i ■^ <5j g ^ s ^ ■v-< £^ g ■^ o t^