Dpy 1 jlllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllltlillllllllilllillllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllillllllillllllllllllllll£ i I Olutttttg A NEW AND EASY METHOD Part One DY FRANCES H. LYNCH :iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiitiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiirMiii« flixttttng J^^C> A NEW AND EASY METHOD Part One Copyright. 1913 BY FRANCES H. LYNCH J. A. WELCH (a, PRINT. ST. PAUL, MINN. 15 INTRODUCTION. The use of the Labor Sav- ing Device in connection with this New Dressmaking Sys- tem, brings Pattern Cutting from tlie foundation up wdth- in eas3^ reach of all. The ser- rated edge can be used for marking hems, tucks, hooks and eyes, button holes, etc. It also gives a true bias. Study illustration, lollow directions, and perfect pat- terns and work will result in much less time than by any other known method. It is also valuable for em- broidering. JAN -3 !9(9 TUCK MARKING. On the wrong side of goods, mark with Tailor's chalk 2 lines, the distance between being twice that of the desired tuck, then place bottom mark on the top mark and baste. Then stitch from right side. HEM MARKING. Lay straight edge of device on bottom of skirt and with chalk make 2 lines, using ^J serrated edge for measure- ment. o Cut on top line, fold, and baste on the lower o line. Stitch from right side. ^ See illustration. Marking for hooks and eyes, buttons, clasps, and French knots. EMBROIDERY. Hundreds of beautiful designs for braiding, beading and embroidering can be made with Device, by using tlie ser- rated edge, the various curves and the circle. INSTRUCTIONS. Draw 2 inches of design on heavy white paper. Baste design on as many thicknesses of white tissue paper as necessary for total length of work. Remove thread from sewing machine needle and perforate design. Baste per- forated tissue pattern on material side by side, and em- broider over paper, which can then be easily removed. This is not only a quick and easy way, but strengthens the material and serves very advantageously on light weight goods. LESSON I. Standing Collar and Neck Band. With aid of Device draw one-half of a right angle with the length of lines one-third neck measure at base, plus 6 inches. Call these lines 1 and 2. See illustration. At end of line 1 make dot D. At end of line 2 make dot B. Place D on Device on D on draft. Draw curve one-half base neck measure. Draw a second curve parallel with first, the distance between being height of collar de- sired, its length being one- half neck measure at top of collar. Line 3 connects both curves. This gives one- half of Collar Draft, not allowing for seams. Line 3 is center back. Neck measurements are taken : Under chin. At base. Height. LESSON II. Standing Circular Collar Draft. Measure neck under chin. Make a right angle with length of lines one-third neck measure, plus 5 inches. Call these lines 1 and 2. On line 1 and 2, measure out one-third neck measure. Make dots A and B. Draw one- fourth circle, A to B. B^rom end of line 1 to end of line 2, draw a second curve parallel with first. Line 2 is center back and laid on double fold of material. Allow for seams when cutting. To complete this collar use draft for Plain Standing Collar in Lesson L Cut notch at top end of line 3, and also at dot B in Les- son IL This in both drafts indicates center back. As this collar is open in front, lay notch upon notch and sew carefully both to right and left. LESSON III. Collar Draft, Standing Back and Flat Front. Study Illustration and Dia- gram. With Device draw line 1, 12 inches long. Draw line 2, 4 inches long. Line 3, Vz inch. Line 4 connects lines 3 and 1. X indicates center back at base of neck. Make outside edge any shape desired. This gives one- half of collar pattern. When cutting place line 4 on double fold and allow for seams. LESSON IV. Flat Collar Draft. With aid of Device, very carefully square lines, diagram and illustration. Line 1, 6 inches long. Line 2, 14 inch to right. Line 3, connects lines 1 and 2. •Square line 4, 2% inches to left with line 1. Place dot A on line 1, 14 inch below line 4. At end of line 4. dot B. make Line 5, 2 inches long. Line 6, the length of shoulder, less i/4 inch. Place dot O at end of line 6. Line 7, 3i/4 inches, or consult shoulder table. At end of line 7, place second dot O. Line 8, drawn from sec- ond O to B. Line 9, drawn from B to O. Line 10, V^ neck measure taken under chin. ure minus i/^ inch At end of line 11, place lot C. liine 12, 6 inches. Place dot D at end of line 12. Line 13 is drawn from dot D to dot B. With Device, draw neck curve from A to B, and from B to C. If a V shape neck is desired, draw with Device from B to D. Fold line 8 onto line 9, and draw a curve from D to O. Draw curve from O to junction of .lines 1 and 2. Any shape of flat collar desired can be made from this foundation pattern. See dotted lines on Diagram. Allow for seams when cutting. Line 12 is center front. Line 3 is center back. SHOULDER TABLE. If shoulder drop is — 1 inch, make line 7, 3 inches. 11/4 inches, make line 7, 31/4 inches. 2 inches, make line 7, 4 inches. 21/^ inches, make line 7, 41/4 inches. 3 inches, make line 7, 5 inches. MEASUREMENTS. Neck under chin. Neck at base. Shoulder length. Shoulder drop. This is obtained with Device and small ruler. Place Device on right shoulder with B towards the neck, hold level and measure drop. LESSON V. Circular Capes. Made from Flat Collar Draft. After folding lines 9, extend lines 3, 12, 8, and 9 to any length desired. and LESSON VI. Cuff Patterns. With aid of Device draw — Line 1, 4 inches. Line 2, one-half hand measure, plus % inch. On line 1, 14 inch above line 2, make dot A. With A on Device placed on dot A, draw the curve, sliding Device along to make line long enough to meet end of line 2. Make outside edge any shape desired. See Diagram. Place line 1 on double fold of material when cutting, and allow for seams. LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 013 973 050 1 n