i^/^ «J 1 ^ «- mop m^y^ 12,7 Class JlI^'^X GcpightN". COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT; THE AMERICAN FALL. THE RED BOOK OF NIAGARA A COMPREHENSIVE GUIDE TO THE Scientific, Historical and Scenic Aspects of Niagara FOR THE USE OF TRAVELLERS BY IRVING P. BISHOP, S. M., F. G. S. A. With Many Illustrations, Index and Maps BUFFALO, N. Y. THE WENBORNE-SUMNER CO. I 90 1 THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, Two Copies Received AUG. 19 1901 ^Copyright entry Class glxxq.n». COPY B. coptright 1901 by The Wenborne-Sumneb Co. •V \^ \ Press of The Wenborne-Sumner Co. Buffalo, N. y. Preface, For more than two hundred years the Niagara region has been the most celebrated part of America. In the earlier period of our history it was the doorway to the upper lake region and the Mississippi Valley, for the possession of which French and English and English and Colonists struggled in turn. From a scientific point of view it has presented problems which have interested almost every geol- ogist of distinction, both in America and Europe. As a scenic wonder the Cataract has probably attracted more visitors than any other single natural object in the world. It is the purpose of this handbook to enable the visitor, whether his tastes be for the scenic, the scientific or the historical, to see Niagara from his own point of view, with the minimum outlay of time and money. The book is based upon the author's personal acquaintance with this region, which for thirteen years has been his field for study and recreation. It is issued solely in the interest of travellers whose needs have been, as far as possible, anticipated and provided for. Advertisements of all kind are strictly excluded from its pages. It is believed that the book will enable the tourist to see Niagara much more fully and intel- ligently than would otherwise be possible, in which case it will have fulfilled its mission. Contents. The City of Niagara Falls. PAGE. Area, Population, Arrival, Hotels, American and Canadian sides. Carriages, Electric Railways, Tourists' Directory, Customs, Parks 1-17 HoNV to See Niagara. Outlines for trips for the tourist, with limited time, itinera- ries in detail, including Prospect Park, American Fall, Goat Island, Cave of the Winds, Maid of the Mist, Port Day, Horseshoe Fall, A Cold Water Geyser, Dufferin Islands, Burning Spring, Chippewa, Lundy's Lane, Lor- etto Convent, The Bridges, Whirlpool, Rapids, St. David's Gorge, Niagara Glen, Queensfcon, Lewiston Gorge Route, Devil's Hole, Fort Niagara, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Buffalo to Niagara Falls 18-83 History. Early History, Devil's Hole Massacre, War of 1813, Queenston Heights, Fort Erie and Chippewa, Lundy's Lane, Siege of Fort Erie, The Morgan Incident, Jewish Colonization Scheme, Burning of the Caroline, Rope Walkers and Bridge Jumpers 85-94 Geology. Stratigraphy, How the Gorge was made. Retrogression, Thickness of Strata, Evidence of Former Higher River Level, Geological History, St. David's Channel, Age of the Gorge, Future of the Falls, Earth Movement in the Lake Region 95-106 Niagara Falls Power. Electric and Hydraulic Power Companies, Their Origin and Growth, Present Companies, Electro-Chemical Processes, Transmission of Power 107-114 References 115 Fishing and Hunting.... 116-117 Illustrations. Page. Frontispiece, Hennepin's View, 19 Prospect Park in Winter, 21 American Rapids from Goat Island Bridge, 25 American Fall from Goat Island, 27 Luna Fall from below, 29 Terrapin Rock from Goat Island, 31 Canadian Rapids from Third Sister Island, 33 Path near Horseshoe Fall, Winter, 33 Upper Steel Arch Bridge, 35 American Fall from Canadian side, 36 General View from Upper Arch Bridge, 37 Ice Bridge, 38 Ice Mounds, American Fall, 38 Horseshoe Fall from above, ^ 39 The Horseshoe from Table Rock, 39 Air Explosions, Horseshoe Fall, 41 Effects of Air Explosions, Horseshoe Fall, 42 Canadian Fall from Table Rock, 43 Looking out of ChiiDpewa Creek, old Battlefield, 46 Cantilever and Lower Steel Arch Bridges, 48 Geological Section of the Gorge opposite the Rapids, American side, 51 The Whirlpool Rapids, 52 The Whirlpool, 54 Under the Old Cataract, Wintergreen Flats, 56 Edge of the Old Cataract, Wintergreen Flats, 56 Geological Section of the Gorge from Foster's Flats, 58 Brock's Monument, 59 Queenston from Brock's Monument, 61 Remains of Old Earthwork, near Brock's Monument, .... 62 Looking up the Gorge from Lewiston, 63 Page. Giant Rock, 64 The Whirlpool Rapids, 66 Devil's Pulpit, = 68 Crinoid Head, natural size, 70 Arthrophycus Harlani, 70 A Bit of Ancient Iroquois Beach, Lewiston, ........ 72 Electric Furnace, 79 Power and Transformer Houses, Niagara Falls Power Co., . . 80 Transformers, Niagara Falls Power Co., 81 Interior of Power House, Niagara Falls Power Co., 83 Cut showing Strata in order of deposition, 97 Penstock, Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power Co., Ill Bank and Power House, Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power Co., . Ill Power House, Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power Co., 113 The City of Niagara Falls, N. Y. THIS City was formed by the consolidation of the villages of Niagara Falls and Suspension Bridge. It embraces an area of eight and one-half square miles, and has a population, according to the last census, of 19,467. Formerly its reputation depended solely upon its propinquity to one of the greatest scenic wonders of the world ; but since 1890 the utilization of the great water power of Niagara for the gen- eration of electricity has made of the city an important industrial center, unique in its commercial application of elec- tricity to varied chemical processes. Niagara Falls, Ontario, on the opposite side of the river (Pop. 7,500?) consists of Niagara Falls North, or Clifton, at the Cantilever and Lower Arch Bridges ; Niagara Falls Central, at the Upper Arch Bridge, and Niagara Falls South, or Drummondsville, on the Lundy's Lane battle-field. The town is reached from Niagara Falls, N. Y., by the Upper and Lower Arch Bridges. Arrival. Passengers arriving at Niagara Falls, N. Y., over the Wabash or Erie lines, alight at the Erie Station, Second street, about two minutes' walk from Falls Street. Those who arrive by other lines alight at the Central Depot, corner Second and Falls streets, in the same quarter. Walk from either Station to Prospect Park in five to seven minutes. The Miller and Brundage carriages have the exclusive privilege of a stand within the Central yards, but others may be found in the street outside. Maximum rate of fare, including one trunk -i> 10 and one bag or small parcel for one mile or less, one person, fifty cents ; each additional person, twenty-five cents. Bar- gain with driver recommended. Travellers arriving by elec- tric railway from Buffalo, are set down at Prospect Park, near the American Falls. On the Canadian side, Grand Trunk passengers alight at Niagara Falls North and take carriage or trolley to other points. Trains by the Michigan Central and Canadian South- ern Railroads stop, if flagged, at Niagara Falls Central, Ont., five minutes' walk from Upper Arch Bridge, or at Clifton, Niagara Falls North. Boats from Buffalo by the Interna- tional Navigation Company's line, land passengers at Slater's point, where they connect with the Niagara Falls Park & River Electric Railway for the Falls, Queenston and inter- mediate points. The steamers of the Niagara Navigation Company land passengers at Queenston or Lewiston, whence the Falls are reached by trolley, or from Lewiston if desired, by New York Central Railroad. Hotels—American Side, Prospect House, Second street, one block south of Central Depot. Accommodates 125 guests, $3.50 to $5.50 per day. Single meals $1.00. pataract House (Open from May 1st. to Oct.), corner of Main and Buffalo streets, near the rapids. Accommodates 500 guests. Same rates, and under the same management as the Prospect. International, corner Main and Falls street, adjoining Cataract House, $3.50 to $5.00. Kalten- bach House, A. Kaltenbach, proprietor, 14 Buffalo street, front- ing park and American rapids. Accommodates fifty guests, $3.00 per day. Meals and lodging each 75 cents. Famous for its table d'hote dinner, 2 p. m. Hotel Imperial, corner Falls and Second streets, opposite Central Depot, $2.50 to $4.00 ; single meals 75 cents ; rooms $1.00 to $2.00. Tem- perance House, 329 Second street, about midway between the Erie and Central Depots, $1.50 to $2.00 per day; single meals 40 to 50 cents, bed 50 cents. No intoxicants sold. 11 An excellent hotel of its kind. Tower Hotely 309-313 River- way, $2.00, $2.50 and $3.00. Well spoken of. Columbia, 102 Niagara street, near Erie Depot. Accommodates 150 guests $1.50 to $2.50 per day; single meals or lodging 50 cents. Well spoken of. (Closed in winter). Atlantique, accommodates seventy-five guests* $2.00 to $2.50. Single meal or bed 75 cents. ] Hote s and Restaurants — Canadian Side. Niagara Falls North. The Savoy, $2.00 per day, thirty rooms, good. The Windsor y $2.00; well spoken of. The American House, $1.50; well spoken of . Railroad Restaurant (G. T.), good. Niagara Falls Central. Hotel Lafayette, at end of Upper Arch Bridge. Commended by patrons, $2.00. The Dufferin Restaurant, in Victoria Park. Dinner 50 cents : Convenient for visitors to the park or the Horseshoe ; good. Drummondsville, (N. F. South). Prospect House, $1.00 to $2.00; unpretentious, clean, and good for the price. Kick's Hotel, $1.00 to $2.00. Carriages. The city ordinances permit the following maximum charges which include ordinary baggage, defined as one trunk and one bag or other small parcel : Distance not exceediug one mile, one person, fifty cents; each additional person twenty-five cents. More than one mile and not exceeding two miles, $1.00 ; each additional person fifty cents. More than two, but not exceeding three miles, $1.50; each additional person $1.00. For any distance more than three miles, for two-horse car- riages $2.00 for the first hour and $1.50 for each additional hour. For one-horse carriages, $1.50 for the first hour and $1.00 for each additional hour. Baggage alone, not exceed- ing one mile, twenty-five cents ; one to two miles, fifty cents ; two to three miles, seventy-five cents. Overcharge renders the driver liable to a penalty not ex- ceeding $25.00. On hiring a carriage always make a bargain with the driver. In case of overcharge, take the number of 12 the vehicle and enter complaint to the Superintendent of the Reservation, if the offense is committed there, or at the Police Station opposite Erie Depot, if elsewhere. The Miller & Brundage Co. control the transfer of passen- gers and baggage at the New York Central Railroad Station. Their agents solicit business on all trains entering the city, and have carriages in waiting at the depots ; they also con- trol the privileges at the Whirlpool and Whirlpool Rapids, American side. Passengers using their carriages to the latter places are sold tickets at half rates. Reservation Carriages. From June 1st to September 1st leave Inclined Railway Terminal Station, Prospect Park, every ten to fifteen minutes, stopping at all important points on Goat Island. Tickets (15 cents) allow stop over and are good on any carriage of the line. Canadian Side. Maximum rates allowed by ordinance, two-horse vehicle $1.50, one-horse $1.00 per hour. By the day $8.00 for two and $4.00 for one-horse vehicles. Special rates between fixed points are as follows : — • Lower Steel Arch Bridge, or G. T. Sta- tion to Reservation or Table Rock U. Arch Bridge to Table Rock U. Arch Bridge to Falls Station, M. C. and C. S. R Distances in town, not exceeding 1 mile Over 1 and not more than Smiles Exceeding 1}4 miles Two Horses. $1.00 .50 .25 .25 .371 .50" $1.25 .50 .37* .50" .75 Children between 2 and 10 years, half price One Horse. 25c. 25 25 12i 20 25 75c. 37i 25 20 25 37^ $1.00 .50 .50 .30 .371 .50 h;^ CD 25c. 12i 25 10 12* 20" Electric Railways. Cars leave the foot of Falls street as follows : For Buffalo every fifteen minutes in winter and more 13 frequently in summer (During Pan-American, every five minutes) ; fare, one way, thirty-five cents ; round trip, fifty cents. Transfer at Tonawanda for Lockport. For Gorge Road every hour in winter ; every fifteen minutes in summer, (Road not in operation during March and April) ; round trips seventy-five cents, one way fifty cents. This road checks baggage, 150 pounds for whole and seventy-five pounds for half ticket. For Canadian side, via upper steel bridge, every fifteen minutes in winter and more frequently in summer. For St. Catliarines, Out., via Niagara, St. Catherines and Toronto Electric Railway, every two hours in winter and one hour in summer. Fare seventy -five cents round trip, fifty cents one way. During 1901, this company expects to run half-hour cars to Port Dalhousie, where they will connect with boats to Toronto. (For points within the city every five to fifteen minutes ; fare five cents. For Whirlpool Rapids and Devil's Hole see index.') Tourists' Directory. Post-Office, Falls street, near First. Telegraph: Postal Telegraph Co., 41 Falls street. Western Union, 32 Falls street, New York Central Depot , and at Cataract and International Hotels in summer. Express. American, 29 Falls street, and New York Cen- tral Depot. American National and Canadian, north end of Central Depot. United States and Pacific, 41 Falls street. Wells-Fargo, No. 9 International Block, Falls street near Main. Banks. Bank of Niagara, Falls street, corner Main. Power City Bank, Gluck Building, Falls street, opposite Central Depot. Bank of Suspension Bridge, corner Main and Cleveland streets. Newspapers, Daily, The Niagara Falls Gazette, (Rep.) and the Cataract- Journal, (Dem.). Theatre. International. Lower end of Falls street 14 (open all the year). Museums. Niagara Falls Museum, 315-319 Riverway, also known as Davis^s, adjacent to the Tower Hotel. Admission twenty-five cents. Contains a large collection of natural history specimens, mostly zoolog- ical, a section of a sequoia seventy-seven feet in circumfer- ence, skeletons of a whale, mummies, Egyptian and Assyrian antiquities, minerals, etc., etc. Fine view of the park and river from the roof. Tugby's Museum, 30-38 West Falls street, adjacent to Tugby's Bazaar, has a fine group of grizzly bear and young, near the door, with excellent speci- mens of stuffed mammals, birds and birds' eggs forming the bulk of the collection. The top floor has the walls adorned with paintings illustrating events in the history of the Niagara region. Admission ten cents. Stores. The principal business places are located on Falls street between the Central Depot and Prospect Park. On that account almost any article required may be found after a few minutes' search, and therefore only a limited number of dealers will be noticed. Fancy goods, photographs, Indian bead work and moccasins, canoes, etc., are widely sold, and may be found in almost any store you enter. Among the larger dealers are, Mrs. Isaac Davy, International The- atre Building, West Falls street, and Tugby's Bazaar oppo- site ; Libbie and Katie, 113-115 Main street, opposite the Cataract House (German spoken). The Tower Hotel and Ni- agara Museum have good stocks. On the Canadian side sales- rooms for these articles may be found at the Inclined Rail- way Station, The Dufferin Restaurant and Table Rock Elevator. Newspapers and Periodicals. The Niagara Falls News Co., 103-108 Falls street. Stationer. G. S. Cowper, 39 Falls street. Jewelers. T. V. Dickinson, 27 Falls street. Max Elbe, 105 Falls street. Opticians: T. V. Dickinson, 27 Falls street, Max Elbe, 105 Falls street and C. F. Curling, 5 Arcade Building. 15 Photographers. H. F. Neilson, 52 Niagara street. Jas. A. Koonz, 233 First street. Geo. E. Curtis, Falls street, and many others Florists, E. A. Butler, 526 Main street, C. J. Biggar, 755 7th street. ' Bicycles, sporting goods, bicycle repairs, Rae, 120 Falls street Customs— American Side. The Port of Niagara Falls is at Suspension Bridge, near Main street. Custom Officers are also stationed at the ter- mini of the bridges, and inspect all baggage. Canadian Bicycles leave Wheelmen's League card at American Customs Office or give satisfactory reference, otherwise wheels are dutiable. All goods coming from Can- ada are liable to duty, but examination of hand baggage is not rigorous. The examinations on the Canadian side are similar to those on the American Cameras for tourists' use go free. Bridges. Four bridges span the Gorge below the Falls. The Upper Steel Arch Bridge near Prospect Park was built in 1898, taking the place of a form.er suspension car- riage and foot bridge. Length 1240 feet, height of floor above water 192 feet. Depth of water under the bridge 160 feet, width of floorway 46 feet ; length of arch span 840 feet, making this the longest bridge of its kind in the world. Electric railway, carriage and foot passenger traffic. Fare, carriage with one person twenty-five cents, two persons thirty cents, three or more ten cents for each person. Foot passengers ten cents, round trip fifteen cents ; trolley ride across bridge included. ] Next below is the Steel Cantilever Bridge of the Mich- igan Central Railroad, built in 1883. Length 910 feet; height above water 245 feet. For railway traffic only. A few rods below is the Lower Steel Arch Bridge of the Grand Trunk Railroad, completed in 1897. Total length 1080 feet. Center span 550 feet. Center of arch 226 feet 16 above the water. Upper track for railway, lower for carriage and foot traffic. Fare ten cents ; ticket good for return same day. . Carriage twenty cents. An additional charge of 20 cents is made for carriages containing only one or two per- sons ; when it contains three or more, the vehicle goes free. This bridge replaces the old Suspension bridge built by J. A. Roebling in 1858, in its time the most remarkable struc- ture of the kind in the world. Its length of span was 825' feet ; height of track above the v/ater 258 feet ; height of American Towers eighty-eight feet, of Canadian seventy- eight feet. It had 9,000 miles of wire in the four cables. The first string was carried over by a kite. This was fol- lowed by a rope, and that by a wire, by which the heavier cables were drawn across. The New Suspension Bridge at Queenston was built in 1889 on the site of the old suspension bridge built in 1851 by Capt. E. W. Serrell and destroyed by wind in 1864. The cable span is 1040 feet. Suspended span 800 feet. Height above river, sixty-five feet. The Bridge w^as formally opened for traffic in 1899. (^Fare, round trip, fifteen cents, each way ten cents.) The Parks. The two beautiful Parks, including the choicest part of Niagara, owe their existence to a chance meeting between Governor Robinson of New York and Lord Dufferin, then Governor General of Canada, in 1878. The latter suggested joint action on the part of the State of New York and of the Province of Ontario, to acquire the lands about the great cataract, and to make of them an international reservation free to the public forever. Each Government should retain jurisdiction of its own portion of the Park, but with a mutual understanding as to the general regulations to be enforced on both sides. In his next message, Governor Rob- inson recommended the appointment of commissioners to confer with like commissioners, appointed by the Province of Ontario, for consideration of the plan. Similar recom- 17 mendations were made by Lord Dufferin to the Ontario Gov- ernment. In 1884 the purchase of Prospect Park and the lands adjacent to the rapids, together with the islands in the river near them, was consummated, the State of New York paying for them an aggregate of $1,433,429.50. In 1885 the Dominion Government purchased 154 acres, extending from the Clifton House southward to and including Cedar and Dufferin Islands, paying for them $436,000. The Park so called was subsequently increased by the chain reserve, a strip sixty-six feet wide along the river front, from Fort Erie to Queenston, by the addition of about ninety acres at Foster's Flats, and of about 100 acres more including the old battlefield at Brock's Monument near Queenston. It is supported by the sale of franchises for restaurant, railway and power purposes which yield an annual income of $48,200. With the exception of about $8,000 received annually from the Inclined Railway and minor rentals, the maintenance of the New York Reservation is borne by the State treasury. How well the public appreciates the beneficence of the gov- ernments which have made this magnificent scenery free, is attested by the fact that over half a million people visit the Parks each year. How to See Niagara. Of the six hundred thousand or more people who visit the Falls every year, the greater part remains only for periods ranging from one hour to one day. Although bridges and electric railways have greatly increased the earlier facilities for reaching points of interest, such short time is inadequate for seeing the whole of Niagara, or even all of its most striking features. It is, therefore, of much importance for the tourist, whose stay at Niagara must be brief, to know how he may utilize his time to the best advantage. The fol- lowing itineraries are planned to enable the visitor, whether his stay be short or long, to see the greatest possible amount in the time at his disposal. Although Niagara is now prac- tically free, it is well to remember that the tourist with limited time, who has already spent a considerable sum in reaching the Falls, may exercise economy by the judicious expenditure of a little more money in seeing them after his arrival. The letters in parentheses refer to detailed itineraries on succeeding pages. The arrangement of trips is based upon the time at the tourist's disposal. TRIP 1: From depots or Prospect Park entrance, American side. Time, one hour. Walk To Upper Arch Bridge and pass out to the middle. See trip (D). Return to bridge entrance, take right hand path and pass along edge of bank to American Fall (A). Omit descent of inclined railway. Follow rapids upwards from Prospect Point to Green Island Bridge : Return to park entrance: or Take Carriage for excursions (A) and (B), omitting descent 18 Slater, Photo. HENNEPIN'S VIEW— From Prospect Park. 20 by inclined railway. Stops will be brief at all points, and some may have to be left out altogether, or Take Carriage to Horseshoe Fall via Upper Arch Bridge (D). Make stop only at Table Rock. TRIP 2: Starting as in Trip 1. Time, two hours. Good pedestrians may cover excursions (A) and (B) in the time by omitting descent of inclined railway. The use of the reservation carriages shortens the time, makes the trip easier, and may enable the visitor to descend Inclined Rail- way. To avoid mistakes, defer descent until return from the islands. By Carriage, excursions (A) (B) and (D) may be covered, with short stops at principal points of interest. It is advised to begin with (D) and follow with (A) and (B) in succession. Consult driver regarding time before making descent of inclined railway, or elevator. To Lewiston and return by Great Gorge Route (N) Belt Line trip across Upper Arch Bridge and around lower gorge (D) (J) (L) (M) (N). Run- ning time of car, 2 hrs. 10 min. These trips will be prac- ticable in summer, but inquiry should be made regarding times of start and return if trip is to be completed in time to meet train. Office foot of Falls street, nearly opposite ter- minus, right hand side. TRIP 3: Time One-half Day (Four to Five Hours.) (A) and (B) starting with ascent of Observation Tower, and including descent of Inclined Railway. Either the trip in the Maid of the Mist or trip (C) may be taken, but not both Use reservation carriages. Follow with (D). If one hour remains, you may visit the Canadian Rapids (E) ; if tw^o, take the trip round the gorge to Queenston, Lewiston and back to Prospect Park, without stopping off. Trip 4: One Day. From American side (A) (B) (C) (D) (E), to Lower Arch Bridge, (J) (L) (M) (N). ■ \ I 'f, . - *> .., jii-' ,.,u mkmi'-f- : 1 .■'".. S/rfft-r. f>/!?o/o. ' ^- .«#.#^ Niclsoa, Photo. PROSPECT PARK IN WINTER. 22 From Slater's Point, or Chippewa, reverse trip (G) (E) then to Table Rock (D), then by trolley to Lower Arch Bridge, (J) (L) (M) (N), Observation Tower (A) (B) and (C). Either of these trips is a full day's work and a hard one. By following the routes indicated, the tourist may see twice as much in the time as he would be able to do if left to his own devices. The trip to the Devil's Hole and return, (0), may be easily made in half a day, or (0) and (P) in a day. For other trips, see itineraries in detail. Itineraries. All electric cars entering Niagara Falls, N. Y., run t? Prospect Park at the foot of Falls street, which is also the point of starting for sight-seers who have come by other conveyances. Upon alighting, the American Rapids with the bridges to Green and Goat Islands are seen on the left. In front, near the farther side of the park, toward the Amer- ican Fall is the stone upper station of the Inclined Railway. On the right near the Riverway, is the new Shelter, contain- ing toilet rooms and the offices of the Superintendent, Clerk and Board of Commissioners. Nearly opposite the Shelter is the Steel Observation Tower, 300 feet high, from which the whole panorama of Niagara may be seen. As the stranger often becomes confused as to the relative directions between points of interest, because of the abrupt change of the course of the river at the falls, the ascent of the tower is strongly advised. An electric elevator takes you to the top in two and one-half ninutes; fee twenty-five cents. From the upper platform Buffalo may be seen on the south, and Lake Ontario on the north, with the magnificent sweep of river, falls and country round about. A folder furnished by the conductor indicates points of interest. The elevator is usually closed for repairs for a few weeks in December or January. 23 (A) Prospect Park and the American Fall. From the foot of Falls street two paths lead through the park towards the falls. Following that on the right as far as the carriage drive, a sign board seen near the path be- yond marks Hennepin's View of the American and Horse- shoe Falls. Below this, the dock of the little steamer Maid of the Mist is seen at the water's edge, with the inclined railway to the left and nearer the fall. Across the river is the corresponding dock of the Maid with another inclined railway descending to it. Following the path downward, a walk of one to two minutes brings us to Prospect Point at the very edge of the American Fall, beyond which is Luna Island, separated from Goat Island beyond by the little Luna Fall. A path to the left leads upward along the edge of the rapids to Bath or Green Island Bridge. The contour line of the American Fall is 1060 feet; height of fall, 167 feet. Descent to Foot of American Fall. The Upper Terminal Station near Prospect Point contains waiting and toilet rooms; good drinking water outside in the rear. Descent from here to the foot of the American Fall is attained by means of the inclined railway (fare five cents each way), or on foot by means of a stairway of 251 steps (f ree) . Toilet room in lower station. One-half to three- fourths hour should be allowed for this trip. Rubbers and waterproofs or umbrellas desirable. From the lower end of the railway the best view of the cataract from below is ob- tained. Caution should be used in approaching the falls, as a sudden change of wind is liable to drench the visitor. From the inclined railway a path descends on the right to the dock of the Maid of the Mist. The Upper Steel Arch Bridge is seen spanning the gorge beyond. The visitor may, if he wishes, now take the Trip on the Maid of the Mist. Fare, fifty cents, including waterproof suit. Ticket per- mits landing on Canadian side and return the same day. Time of trip, about one hour. 24 The little steamer passes to the left in front of the Amer- ican and Luna Falls and Goat Island, well up into the midst of the Horseshoe. Returning, it drops slowly down the river, usually making a landing on the Canadian side before reaching its point of starting. This trip more than any other im- presses the tourist with the power and majesty of the cata- ract. It should be taken if time permits. (B) From Prospect Park around Goat Island. This tour may be made on foot by a fairly good pedestrian in two hours, and if the tourist enjoys walking and is not pressed for time, that method will prove most satisfactory. The reservation roads are excellent for bicycling, and wheelmen will cover the same ground in about half the time required by pedestrians. Reservation carriages (page 12) leave the Inclined Railway Station every ten to fifteen minutes, and make the tour of the island, stopping at the principal points of interest. Purchase tickets at the station or of the driver. From Sep- tember first to November first the carriages are run at longer intervals, and after that are not to be depended upon. From the park we cross the bridge to Bath or Green Island, getting a fine view of the American Rapids on either hand. Above Green Island is a smaller one. Ship Island, and still farther up and nearer the American shore, Brig Island. Be- low Green Island are seen Robinson Island and Bird Island, the former nearer the American shore. Below Bird Island lies Crow Island, with Luna Island at the edge of the cata- ract, near the Goat Island shore. We now cross a second bridge to Goat Island, turn to the right and ascend to the plateau. The Shelter at the right affords rest and protection in case of rain, and contains lavatories and drinking water. HISTORICAL: In 1770 John Stedman, the survivor of the Devil's Hole massacre, cleared the upper part of the island and cultivated it. In the fall he brought over a number of domestic animals, all of which perished during the winter with the exception of a single male goat. From this 26 circumstance the island took its name. The more euphonious title of ''Iris Island" was afterwards proposed by General Porter, a later owner, but the earlier name persisted and by that it is still called. (See Goat Island, by Peter A. Porter, Buffalo, 1900). BOTANICAL : Ice from the lakes above keeps the waters of the river cool and delays the growth of vegetation on the island until late in the spring ; but when it once begins, de- velopment of bud, flower and fruit is exceedingly rapid like that of sub-artic flora. David F. Day lists 909 species growing in the vicinity of Niagara Falls. While all of these are not found on Goat Island, ''probably no tract of land in its vicinity, so restricted in area, can be found exhibiting so large a number. ' ' For list of plants see 14th Annual Report Commissioners State Reservation, to be had at Superinten- dent's Office, Prospect Park. Permission to collect plants should be asked at the same place. GEOLOGICAL : The upper end of the island is of limestone thinly overlaid with soil. All the rest is covered with a de- posit of river gravel and sand which is thickest on the lower or western end, and contains numerous fresh-water shells of species now living in the Niagara River or Lake Erie, to- gether with a few which are extinct. Fragments of these shells may be seen in the edge of the bank between Luna and Horseshoe Falls and in the gravel pit (page 32). These gravels are part of a much larger deposit made when the river stood at a higher level. Gravels containing the same shells occur on the Canadian side and in Prospect Park at approximately the same height, indicating that they were formed at the same time and in the same manner. That they are post-glacial is proved by the fact that they are underlaid by red glacial clays and contain granitic bowlders which must have been brought here by glacial agencies. A monograph on the fresh-water shells above referred to has been published by Miss J. E. Letson, Curator of the Buffalo Society of Natural Sciences. Slater, Pkoto. AMERICAN FALL FROM GOAT ISLAND. 28 From the Shelter the path and carriage drive follow the bank to Luna Fall, where a stop is made. A stairway leads downward, from which several fine views of Luna Fall and the American Fall are obtained, with Prospect Park and the Observation Tower in the background. The bridge of red Medina sandstone at the bottom of the stairs leads across to Luna Island. Turning to the left after crossing the bridge we arrive at the brink of Luna Fall. The wooden bridge skirting the fall below is used for access to the Cave of the Winds. On the opposite side of the island we obtain a Near View of the American Fall, and the gorge beyond. The ravine opposite the center of the Amer- ican Fall is 1700 feet wide. Returning to the top of the stairway the visitor may again enter the carriage or walk south to the Biddle Stairs (20 to 30 rods) where is the entrance to the Cave of the Winds. (C) Excursion to the Cave of the Winds, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Descent to the base of the cliff by means of the stairs is free. To visit the cave, obtain guide and waterproof suit at the entrance. (Fee for both, one dollar. Valuables should be left in charge of attendant. ) A spiral staircase descends to the base of the Niagara limestone. From the foot of the stairway, a poorly kept path turns to the left towards the Horseshoe. Following the path to the right along the base of the cliff, a walk of one minute or less brings you to Luna Fall, behind which is the cave. This may be entered from either side; but it is customary to approach it from the American Fall. The guide conducts you down the stairway to the left, across the bridges in front of Luna Fall to a point between it and the American Fall. On bright days circular rainbows may be seen during the passage, especially in the afternoon. The cave, a natural chamber about 100 x 78 feet in dimension, and more than 100 feet high, has been hollowed out by the erosion of water projected against the cliff by air-blasts. The return is made through the cavern behind the fall. LUNA FALL FROM BELOW. Slater, Photo. 30 Fierce blasts of wind propelling sheets of falling water assail the visitor at every step and make of this a novel and memorable experience. Near the water's edge, between Luna Fall and the Biddle Staircase, Sam Patch made one of his famous leaps in 1829. A ladder with its base against the rocks was supported by ropes attached to the cliff above so that the top overhung the river. From a platform on the apex of this structure he made his plunge of 95 feet into the water below. He lost his life in making a similar jump at Rochester, N. Y., November 13 of the same year. We return by the stairway to the top of the cliff. From the Biddle Stairs the carriage or a pleasant walk of three to five minutes takes one to the Horseshoe Fall View, from which the Canadian Fall is seen to advantage. At the apex of the angle where the waters meet for their plunge into the gulf below, geyser-like jets of spray may be seen to shoot at short intervals upward above the edge of the fall. These are probably caused by the bursting of giant bubbles (see page 43). The gorge is here 1250 feet in width. From the platform a stairway descends to the level of the river, whence a walk guarded by railings leads out- ward to Terrapin Rock at the very edge of the fall. Near the present terminus of the walk, a stone structure called Terrapin Tower was built in 1833. It was a round tower 43 feet high, 12 feet in diameter at the base and 8 feet at the top, where there was a gallery commanding a near view of the Horseshoe and the gulf below. Owing to its proximity to the retreating edge of the fall, it came to be considered unsafe and was blown up with gunpowder in 1873. Returning to the top of the stairway, we find by the drive a pavilion for shelter, and opposite on the edge of the bank a drinking fountain with excellent cool water. The carriage may be resumed or the trip continued on foot. Two fine views of the rapids and Horseshoe may be seen within two TERRAPIN ROCK FROM GOAT ISLAND. Slater, Photo. 33 minutes' v/alk upstream, the better being where a rustic bench stands near a basswood tree. The stone building seen on the brow of the hill across the river is the *S'^. Loretto Convent (page 49). About 75 yards farther on a road leads to the left towards the gravel pits, the best place on the island to see the fresh water shells mentioned on page 26. Beyond the road to the gravel pit the island near the edge of the water is protected by crib work. This was rendered necessary by the high water of 1889, which undermined the bank so as to endanger the roadway. About 800 yards far- ther on we pass a large pavilion on the left, and stop at Three Sisters Islands. A stone bridge with a small fall, the Hermifs Cascade, above it extends to the First Sister. The First and Second, and the Second and Third Sisters are con- nected by suspension bridges, the last spanning a pretty fail, below and to the left of which is Little Brother Island, sepa- rated from the Thii^d Sister by swift water. From the upper end of the Third Sister is an unsurpassed view of the Canadian Rapids. Another, nearly as good, may be had from the lower end, looking toward the Canadian shore. In 1829 Francis Abbott, known as the *' Hermit of the Falls," came here and occupied a hut on the northeasterly side of the island, living with no companions except a cat and dog. He was a refined, scholarly man, writing much but immediately destroying his work. His favorite pastimes were playing on a flute or guitar, and bathing, for which latter purpose he used the pool nearly under the fall now called after him. (Read Porter's ''Goat Island" and the ''Guide to Niagara Falls, " by F. H. Severance, page 29.) To return to Prospect Park from the stone bridge, we may take the road leading north past the pavilion to Green Island Bridge, or the preferable road which skirts the upper end of Goat Island. The latter route is that followed by the reser- vation carriages, which stop at The Spring, a small fountain of clear, cool water, reached by an easy stairway. From A. IV. 'Bayard, Photo. CANADIAN RAPIDS FROM THIRD SISTER ISLAND. -1^ fife?<^^ -■'«^ P^ri^^^^S •?/"■■' , c^ ^ ""ii ji^^j^^^^^^taHHn^^ m^^ /. p. Bishop, Photo. PATH NEAR HORSESHOE FALL— Winter. 34 here the carriage returns to Prospect Park via Green Island and Falls street, where connections are made with electric cars. (Z) To Port Day. From the Green Island Bridge entrance, a driveway and path extend parallel with the river through a beautiful park upward along the American shore as far as Port Day. The lower part affords some fine views of the rapids, and the upper a glance at the smooth water above them and of the great manufacturing plants beyond the power canal. The trip makes an exceedingly pleasant walk or drive of one-half to three-quarters of an hour, returning from Port Day by the same route, or by Quay, Erie and Falls streets to Pros- pect Park. (D) From Prospect Park to Horseshoe Fall by Way of Upper Steel Arch Bridge (for bridge, see page 15). Running Time by Electric Rail^vay 20 minvites. A trolley car from the foot of Falls street takes passen- gers across the bridge where they are transferred to car for the Horseshoe and Chippewa. Ask Conductor for transfer check each time you step off the car. Carriages may also be had at the trolley terminus at Falls street. Purchase bridge tickets at the bridge entrance. (Fare and Customs, page 15). It is advised, however, to walk or drive slowly across the bridge, which affords the best General View of the Falls. Looking up the river. Prospect Park lies on the left, with the Inclined Railway descending to the river. Between the railway terminal and the bridge is the dock of the steamer Maid of the Mist. Beyond the railway are seen in succession the American Fall, Luna Island, with the narrow Luna Fall separating it from Goat Island, and beyond Goat Island the Horseshoe Fall. On the Canadian side above the bridge is seen the Inclined Railway extending down to the Maid of the Mist landing. Farther up near the fall is the Hydraulic Lift by which access to the foot of the Canadian Fall is obtained. Below and nearly under the bridge on the American side is seen the arched outlet of the Niagara Falls 36 Power Company's Tunnel, with the city trunk sewer opening beyond. The Clinton limestone outcrops just above the mouth of the tunnel, the red Medina rock shows below. The first building near the water's edge is the pulp-mill of the Cliff Paper Company, next to which is the power house of the Niagara Falls Hydraulic and Manufacturing Company. The Cantilever Bridge and the Lower Steel Arch Railway Bridge (page 15) are seen in the distance. After crossing AMERICAN FALL FROM CANADIAN SIDE. the bridge we turn to the left, passing the ruins of the old Clifton House. At the edge of the bank is the Bazaar and Upper Terminal Station of the Inclined Railway, and the ticket office for the Maid of the Mist. (Railway fare five cents each way; for Maid of the Mist, see page 23). A superb View of the American and Luna Falls is obtained from the window (free). Beyond the Terminal Station we pass the ferry road on the left (descent free), and on the right the office of the ICE BRIDGE Park Superintendent with flag-pole adjacent. The rustic summer house at the left, ''Ramblers Rest," is a particu- larly good point from which to see the opposite falls. ''In- spiration Point,' ' the next rustic shelter beyond, is the favorite prospect, although other vistas nearly as good open in several places all the way to the Dufferin Restaurant. ICE MOUNDS— American Fail. 39 Just before reaching this we pass on oar right a monument to Col. Sir Casimir Gzowski, chairman of the first board of commissioners of Victoria Park. /. F. Bi.top. Photo. HORSESHOE FALL FROM ABOVE. THE HORSESHOE FROM TABLE ROCK. 40 Across the road from the next stone building beyond the restaurant is the Hydraulic Elevator to the Cave of the Winds. We now arrive at Table Rock and the Canadian or Horseshoe Fall, generally regarded as the grandest part of Niagara. The crest line of this fall was, in 1890, 3,010 feet long, and probably exceeds that length now, as the center is continually receding. The height at the apex of the curve is 158 feet. About nine-tenths of the volume of the river follows this channel. Father Louis Hennepin, who visited the Falls in December, 1678, and who gave the first written account of them, described a third fall dropping into the chasm from the west a short distance above the spot where the elevator now stands. An overhanging ledge called Table Rock marked the supposed site of this fall until about fifty years ago, when the greater part of the ledge broke off and dropped into the gorge below. The name, however, is still retained for the railed-in space nearest the brink of the fall. A Cold Water Geyser. At the apex of the angle where the waters plunge from both sides into the abyss below, geyser-like jets of water shoot upwards at intervals of a few seconds above the crest of the Falls. Accompanying them may be heard dull explo- sions like the sound of distant cannon. Some of these jets are 200 feet high from base to apex, and residents in that vicinity report them as being at least 250 feet high at times. The cause of them has been the subject of much discussion but the probable explanation is this : Water, like any other fall- ing body, increases its velocity the longer it falls, and the lower parts tend to separate from those above, thus produc- ing ''suction" and drawing air into the stream. It is this air which gives the dazzling whiteness to the falling sheet. The descending water column carries the air far down into the river, here probably 160 or more feet deep, the inertia of the falling mass and the weight of the water compressing the air to a small part of its original volume. /. p. bishop, Thoto. EFFECTS OF AIR EXPLOSIONS.— Horseshoe Fall. 43 The air bubbles finally reach a depth where their buoyancy overcomes the force which carried them down, and many of them coalesce to form giant bubbles which begin to rise towards the surface. As they move upward, the pressure of the water above them becomes less, they expand rapidly and when near the surface burst, throwing the water high into the air. That the jets are not caused by explosions be- hind the cataract is proven by the fact that the jets rise CANADIAN FALL FROM TABLE ROCK. [Xiclson, Photo. 44 outside the falling sheet of water. The above-water erosion behind the fall is also probably due to the action of water driven by air currents. Unless the wind is contrary there is usually a stiff breeze generated by the waterfall blowing out of the gorge at Table Rock. This is often strong enough to interfere with the carrying of umbrellas, and generally at variance with the prevailing air currents outside. Descent to the foot of the fall may be made by the hydraulic elevator. (Round trip tickets in- cluding waterproof suit and guide, 50 cents. Without suit and guide, 25 cents. Dressing room and ticket office in the stone building opposite.) At the foot of the elevator a path leads to the right towards the fall. Near the edge of the cataract the guide conducts you through a short tunnel ; emerging, you pass a little way behind the sheet of falling water. The view from the foot of the fall is regarded by many as the most impressive of all. Where spots of almost equal in- terest are so numerous, choice is, of course, almost a mat- ter of taste rather than of actual beauty or sublimity. We return to the roadway by means of the elevator. (E) From Horseshoe Falls to Dxafferin. Islands. From Table Rock to Duiferin Islands is a pleasant walk of fifteen to twenty minutes, or a ride of four to five minutes by trolley. Above the Horseshoe Fall carriages pay toll, fifty cents for two-horse and twenty-five cents for one-horse vehicles. (Toll-gate at Cedar Island.) We first pass on the left the Pumping Station near the fall, and a little further on the Electric Power House on the right. The road crosses a small bridge to Cedar Island, returning to the mainland higher up, and giving a continuous view of the rapids all the way to the Dufferin Islands. The finest pros- pect is obtained from the shore almost opposite the wooden platform which serves as a station. The rapids are here nearly a mile wide and have a fall of about 56 feet from their head to the apex of the Horseshoe. Looking across 45 towards the Three Sisters Islands, the rushing, tumbling waters afford a beautiful spectacle not unlike the ocean in a storm, a most interesting part of Niagara, too often missed by those who follow the conventional route of travel. From the trolle}^ station excellent foot-paths lead in various directions among the islands, all affording pleasant, shady walks. (For botany see page 26). Descending the one which* leads towards the nearest bridge, we follow a plank walk downw^ard, skirting the southerly side of the island along the very edge of the w-ater. Near the western end a suspension foot-bridge spans the water to the opposite shore. We may cross this and pass to the right, returning to the station by the foot-path along the rapids, or w^e may go back by one of the paths through the wooded islands. The latter route is the shorter and in pleasant weather the more desir- able. For the stop at Dufferin Islands at least an hour should be allowed, and twice that time could be profitably spent in this delightful spot. (F) To tKe Bvirning Spring, one-Ka^lf mile, 45 rr\ir\vites. At the foot of the bluff, across the bridge leading from the station, was the old Burning Spring, now extinct. It con- sisted of a jet of natural gas w^hich bubbled up through the water from a crevice in the limestone beneath, and w^as ignited for the delectation of visitors. Turning to the right at the end of the bridge, we follow the road up the hill. The wooden building seen in front after reaching the top contains a bazaar and the Burning Spring. (Admission to the latter, 50 cents.) A jet of sulphuretted hydrogen gas is allowed by the attendant to bubble up through a muddy pool in a darkened room. When ignited, the gas burns to the height of three to five feet. People liking an exhibition of this nature will feel repaid for their visit to it. From the Burning Spring carriages may return, if desired, by way of Loretto Convent and Lundy's Lane. 46 (G) From D\jfferin Islands to CKippe^vek.. The electric railway follows the river bank to Chippewa Creek, crossing the stream within the village limits. Chip- pewa is a very old town and at one time was of considerable importance as the upper terminus of the portage from Queenston. It derives its special distinction from the battle which was fought there July 5, 1814. (See index.) On the morning of that day the British were encamped on the north side of the creek. The battle in the afternoon took place on the plain south of the village. The remains of the Brit- Slater, Photo. LOOKING OUT OF CHIPPEWA CREEK— Old Battlefield. ish earthworks are still to be seen where the creek joins the river. A skeleton which, from the articles found near it, was evidently that of a British soldier, was dug up in 1899 by workmen repairing the electric railway tracks nearly op- posite the old wharf. Hotel, the Baltimore House, unpre- tentious but well spoken of. From Chippewa the electric railway extends to Slater's Point on the old battlefield, where connections are made with the International Navigation Company's steamers to and from Buifalo. We return to the Upper Arch Bridge by car. 47 (H) From Upper Steel Arch Bridge to Lower Arch Bridge, Canadian Side Pedestrian.* GEOLOGICAL: Opposite the end of the bridge, looking west, are seen three terraces indicating former and higher stages of the river. These may be traced, with short inter- ruptions, to the whirlpool and beyond. Crossing the road and following the walk north on the left-hand side, a few steps brings us to a quarry where nodules of massive gyp- sum occur together with other crystalline minerals. A lit- tle farther on, almost opposite the manufacturing establish- ments to be seen across the river, an excavation in the gravel bank to the left of the walk shows fairly good speci- mens of fresh water shells. (See page 26). Ascending the first gentle rise of ground, the iron fence skirting the road- way turns abruptly to the right, enclosing a projecting bluff. At the north end of this is a possible but difficult descent to the base of the cliff, (dangerous. ) A small platform on the right hand at the second bend in the road beyond, marks the site of an iron ladder (private), also used for descent. Just before reaching the cantilever bridge, the tracks of the Niag- ara Gorge Electric Railway may be seen traversing obliquely the bank on the American side. This walk also affords a good view of the still water between the upper and lower steel arch bridges. Pleasant but not specially attractive. Time, fifty minutes. Distance, about one and three-quarter miles. (I) Fron\ Lo-wer Arch Bridge to Lundy's Lane and Loretto Convent by Electric R.ail^vay. The Niagara Falls, Wesley Park and Clifton Tramway Company's electric cars leave the Lower Arch Bridge every twenty minutes from 6.15 a.m. to 11.00 p.m. (first car Sun- days, 8.15 a.m.) In winter the cars may run at longer intervals and the time of leaving and returning should be ascertained from the conductor or the company's office at the intersection of this line with that of the N. F. Park R'y. * Where no stops are made by the tourist the trip by Electric car from the Horseshoe to Queenston takes 55 minutes : from Queenston across the bridge to the Junction, 5 minutes more. >SI 49 Those wishing to reach Lundy's Lane from the Upper Arch Bridge may walk or ride up the hill past the ruins of the Clifton House, taking the car at Ferry Street. (Niagara Falls Central.) From the Lower Arch Bridge the car runs up the hill near both railroad depots, skirts the edge of Wesley Park^^nd after passing Niagara Falls Center runs westward to Drummonds- ville (Niagara Falls South.) Alighting where the road turns to the left, a walk of two to three minutes directly up the hill brings us to the Lundy's Lane battlefield. (See index). The old cemetery crowning the hill on the left hand was the scene of the principal struggle in that memorable fight, and many who fell that day are buried there. The location of the battery and other points of interest are marked by wooden sign-boards. Across the road is a steel Observation Tower, from which a panorama of the Falls and battle field may be seen. (Elevator not running in 1900. It is unoffi- cially reported that it will be equipped with electric power and used during the Pan-American Exposition, 190L) Din- ner or lunch may be obtained at the hotels if desired. (Page n.) From Drummondsville the electric car takes us in four minutes to the end of the line. At the terminus we look down upon Falls View Station of the Michigan Central R. R., and obtain another magnificent View of the Canadian Rapids, Horseshoe Fall and the gorge below. (All passenger trains of the M. C. R. R. stop here and allow travellers to alight.) The stone building nearest the station is the Loretto Con- vent. Beyond this and on the same side is the Monastery and Hospice conducted by the Carmelite Order. The Hospice is lighted and heated by electricity, and all the cooking is done by the same agency. Guests are received for rest or retreat if furnished with proper recommendations. Information may be obtained at the cottage reached by a bridge span- ning the M. C. R. R. tracks. 50 (J) Loweif ArcK Bridge to the WKirlpool. It is recommended to walk out upon the Steel Arch Bridge (fee ten cents) for the excellent view of the Whirlpool Rapids — three-quarters of a mile long. The water in the swiftest part below is estimated by Gilbert at about 35 feet deep. Under the Cantilever Bridge its measured depth is 75 feet. The outlook up and down the river presents cer- tain aspects not easily seen elsewhere, and which well re- pay the outlay of time and money. A short distance below the bridge on the right hand is the entrance to the Inclined Railway, where descent may be made by a track 300 feet long to the edge of the rapids below (fare 50 cents). A plank walk skirts the rapids for some distance and practically controls the only Near View of them from the Canadian side. In the middle of the stream the water is slightly higher than at the shore, due, it is thought, to the reflection of waves from the opposite banks. Returning to the entrance we walk northward past the end of the Inclined Railway enclosure, and obtain the best View of the Rapids from the top of the bank. The gorge is here 750 to 850 feet wide. GEOLOGICAL: The hard, grey band of rock seen at the top of the opposite bank is the Niagara Limestone underlaid by a darker and softer stratum, the Niagara Shale. Below this is a narrower stratum of hard rock, the Clinton Limestone, with a layer, one to three feet thick, of greenish Clinton Shale under it. The reddish sandstones and shales extending from this down to the railroad track belong to the upper part of the Medina. The strata occur in the same relative position on both sides of the gorge through its entire extent. Owing to the fact that the rocks are inclined, or dip, to the south, the Clinton passes below the water near the UpperArch Bridge, and for the same reason lower strata appear in sight below the Whirlpool. 1 I Niagara I Limestone J 1 Niagara Shale Clinton Limestone Medina Sandstone /. P. Bishop, Photo. GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE GORGE, OPPOSITE THE RAPIDS. American Side. 53 After crossing the little stream which falls over the cliff, a gravel pit is seen in the field on the left hand. This con- tains fluviatile shells like those referred to elsewhere (pages 26 and. 32). From the rapids the electric car in five minutes, or a walk of one-half hour, takes you to the whirlpool Stops are regularly made at the upper and lower ends, but passengers will be set down or taken on at almost any point upon signal to the conductor. If the visitor makes but one of the two stops the lower is preferable. The car skirts the edge of the bank, crosses Boivman's Creek on a high steel bridge (distant view of the rapids) and stops at the Whirlpool Sta- tion. A path from the rear leads to the rustic shelter over- looking the Whirlpool at its outlet. The gorge is here 900 feet wide at the top, and 400 feet at the bottom. On the opposite side are the grounds of the DeVeauz College. The Gorge Electric Railway rounds the base of the cliff below. The water after its tumultuous passage through the rapids pours into the whirlpool basin, impinges upon the opposite bank, turns to the left and follows the shore back nearly to the point of entrance. The waters become heaped up here, dive under the incoming stream almost at right angles and escape by the outlet. In the eddy near the center of the pool, logs, boards and other objects float for weeks to- gether, nowsuckeddownby the outgoing currents or return- ing again to the surface by a ''boiler" from below. The bodies of those who have been drowned above the Falls, becoming distended with gases, usually rise in the whirlpool and are recovered after having been tossed upon its bosom for several days. Good geologists believe the pool to be 200 feet deep. Descent to the whirlpool may be made by a path leading down the bank from the railway tracks about 150 yards west of the whirlpool station. A second path descends from the west end of the steel bridge across Bowman's Creek. A D3 I .^^ 55 third starts nearly opposite the Whirlpool. Following the last, which is steep and difficult, we cross in a few minutes a small stream which makes a fall 12 to 15 feet over the Clinton Limestone. The final descent at the bottom is by means of a ladder which spans a portion of the Quartzose Sandstone, also seen near the w^ater's edge at the outlet opposite. On the left bank of Bowman's Creek, at its mouth, is an exposure of stratified gravels and clays, probably an old delta deposit. Its only interest lies in its possible connection with the history of the old St. David's Channel. (See below). Although the scenery which is reached by this descent is beautiful and picturesque, it will hardly repay, except in the case of those fond of climbing, the labor involved in getting to and from it. This is more especially evident when we consider how easily the Whirl pool is reached from the Amer- ican side. Ascending by the same route the path divides a short dis- tance above the water. Following the right hand branch we reach the top at the west end of the steel bridge over Bowman's Creek. (K) TKe St. David's Gorge. GEOLOGICAL : Striae and other marks of glaciation are seen on the rocks along the landward side of the path by which we have just ascended. Similar markings are also found on rock in place on the same side of Bowman's Creek above the iron bridge, the last rock exposure being where a lateral stream falls into the gorge about one-quarter mile above that structure. To see the ground in a satisfactory way from the Whirlpool to St. David's, it is necessary to go on foot. From the iron bridge to the head of Bowman's Creek the left bank is the easier traveling, the other the more interesting. After reaching the head of the creek, follow the highway to the left as far as the railroad, then proceed northwestward along the tracks. About two miles further on, before reaching the escarpment are immense beds of gravel. The trip is a hard tramp and of no special interest except to those interested in glacial geology. (L) From tKe Whirlpool to Niagara Glen, Is a ride of two to three miles by trolley. Alighting at the platform which serves as the Glen station descend the first terrace and take the right hand path at the fork. The plateau upon which you now are is Wintergreeii Flat. A walk of one or two minutes along the brink takes you to the top of a stairway. About 100 feet north is a precipice over which the river once made a fall when cutting its way back- ward. The low plain at the base of the cliff is Foster' § Flat. We descend by the substantial stairway nearly to the base of the Niagara Limestone. In the loose sand at the base of the cliff on the right are numerous small conical pits, the traps of ant lions. The path zig-zags downward to a second stairway, at the foot of which the path forks. The left hand branch winds down to the flat below among huge fragments fallen from the overhanging cliff. Following the right hand path a walk of a minute takes you to another stairway span- ning the Clinton Limestone, and thence downward to the river bank where are picnic grounds and shelter. Paths extend up and down the river, which is here very swift, or branch in various directions through the woods. From the picnic grounds a path on the right hand leads up stream. Follow- ing this for about one-quarter of a mile a branch descends on the left to a Spring of good, cold water. The main path- way continues on toward the cove above, passing on the way a number of pot holes formed by stones moved by gyratory currents when the river was at a higher stage. The Niagara Glen is the wildest and most romantic spot in the whole gorge, or perhaps even in Western New York. Since the Park Commissioners have made it accessible it is fast grow- ing in popularity, and in a few days will be as well known as any part of Niagara. 58 BOTANICAL: The park contains many plants not very common in the vicinity of Niagara, and is particularly rich in ferns. A list of the flora found on the Victoria Park Keservation may be had by applying to the Super- intendent at his office. Day's list of plants growing near Niagara will be found in the 14th Annual Report, Commis- sioners New York State Reservation at Niagara, 1896-7. It may be obtained from the Superintendent at Prospect Park. Pill' ^S^"?::^P^:., ^^ /. p. Bishop, Photo. GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE GORGE FROM FOSTER'S FLATS. G. K. Gilbert supposes that when the Falls had receded to Wintergreen Flat the greater volume of water flowed near the American bank, where, in consequence, recession was more rapid. The thinner stream flowing near the Canadian side was insufficient to remove the blocks of limestone as they fell from the cliff, and therefore we find them scattered about at the base on Foster's Flats. After a time the BROCK'S MONUMENT. Koon:^, Photo. eo erosion upon the eastern side deepened the river bed and left Wintergreen Flat dry. While this work was in progress, the conditions now existing at the Falls were reversed, the larger cataract being upon the American side. A few rods north of Wintergreen Flat another path cut in the rock descends to the glen below. Rattlesnakes are occasionally met near the lower end of this path. (M) From Niagara Glen to Qvieer\ston and Lewiston. The electric car runs sufficiently near the edge of the bank to afford good views of the river. Below Foster's Flats the DeviUs Hole Glen is seen across the river, with the stone buildings of Niagara University crowning the elevation to the left. In front of the University the tracks of the N. Y. C. R. R. descend obliquely towards Lewiston. The car makes its next stop at Brock's Monument, which is reached from the station by the path at the left in two to five minutes. The monument marks the tomb of Maj. Gen. Sir Isaac Brock, K. B., who was mortally wounded in the battle which took place here October 13, 1812. The column is of the Roman composite order, with fluted shaft, standing upon a square pedestal and surmounted by a statue of the hero, the whole structure being 190 feet high. En- trance is from the eastern side. A stairway of 235 steps ascends to a gallery at the top of the column (fee 25 cents), from which a magnificent View is obtained. Those unable or unwilling to climb the column will get an almost equally good prospect from the escarpment in front of the monu- ment. Two hundred and fifty feet below is the river, with Queenston at our feet and Lewiston on the opposite side. Stretching away to Lake Ontario on the north is a fertile plain, the great orchard region of Western New York and Canada. The final struggle in the Battle of Queenston took place on the gentle slope southeast of the monument. In the woods back of that structure the old earthworks still remain, although much eroded by time. 62 /. P. Bishop, Photo. REMAINS OF OLD EARTHWORK, NEAR BROCK'S MONUMENT. From the bluff in front of the monument a path and stair- way descend directly to Queenston. Returning to the elec- tric railway station pedestrians may descend by the roadway or by a steep and difficult path from the summer house at the edge of the gorge beyond. The latter terminates near the Suspension Bridge entrance and saves those athletically inclined about half a mile of travel. The electric car descends to the west along the face of the bluff, turns again eastward and enters Queenston. Just before reaching the village we pass on the left a low Monu- ment erected by H. R. H. the Prince of Wales, in 1860, and marking the spot where Gen. Brock was shot. At the vil- lage one branch of the railway descends to the steamboat wharf, where connections are made with the Toronto steam- ers (page 74) and the Lewiston ferry, while the other branch continues onward to the Suspension Bridge. 63 Queenston, next to Niagara-on-the-Lake the oldest town on the Canadian side, was at one time of considerable impor- tance as the beginning of the portage from the lower river to Chippewa. At present it is much frequented in summer by residents of the cities who come here for rest and angling. The two hotels, the Monument House ($1.00 to $2.00 per day), and the Prospect House, same price, are small and unpretentious but neat and good. Passengers by electric car wishing to reach the hotels should ask the con- ductor to be set down at the nearest crossing, from which the hotels may be reached in one to two minutes. We cross the Suspension Bridge (customs and fares, page 15), a short distance beyond which is the Junction where we transfer to Lewiston or return to the Falls by the Great Gorge Route. (N) From Le>viston or Queenston to Niagara Falls by the Gorge Electric Railway. Rvinning Tinne 40-50 Minvites. Cars from Lewiston stop at the Junction for Canadian transfers, and then proceed southward, passing under the new Suspension Bridge. Just before reaching FishJs Creek, I. p. ■'Biskop. Photo. LOOKING UP THE GORGE, FROM LEWISTON. 64 which makes a pretty fall on the left, we pass the site of Old Ft. Gray which stood at the top of the bluff above. The river now becomes more turbulent and we soon have on our right the DeviVs Bole Rapids, extending to the DevWs Hole, where the first stop is . made. From the station a path ascends to the glen. The Devil's Pulpit, the scene of the British massacre in 1763 (page 88), overhangs the gorge above. The Upper Devil's Hole Rapids extend from the Devil's Hole upward nearly to the Whirlpool. Near the upper end we pass Giant Rock, a huge fragment fallen from the cliff above and menacing the traveler from the river side. Across the river are Foster's Flats (page 57). A little farther on we pass Ongiara Park, a pretty sylvan retreat, and arrive at the Whirlpool (p. 53), where a stop is desirable. Opposite is the mouth of Bowman's Creek, the supposed entrance to the former St. David's Channel. At the edge of the Whirlpool is an outcrop of the Quart- zose Sandstone, with the higher strata seen in the walls of GIANT ROCK. /. p. Bishop, Photo. 65 the gorge near the outlet. Above the Whirlpool we reach the rushing waters of the Whirlpool Rapids tumbling down- wards with irresistible force and grandeur. They increase in fury and impetuosity as we proceed up-stream, reaching their climax near the Rapids Station, where a stop is advised. At night in summer the water is illuminated by colored electric lights, forming a scene of wondrous beauty. Through the Rapids. In 1861, Joel Robinson, with an engineer and assistant, piloted the Maid of the Mist, one of the earlier steamers of that name, through the Rapids to Lewiston. The trip was accomplished in safety, although the boat suffered some injury. On August 28, 1887, C. A. Perry of Suspension Bridge, N. Y., made the passage of the Rapids to the Whirl- pool in a life-boat of special construction which he had him- self made. R. W. Flack, of Syracuse, attempted the same feat in July following, but was drowned. A successful pas- sage was made July 12, 1900, by Capt. Nissen of Chicago. His boat, ''The Fool Killer" had a length of 24 feet with a 4-foot beam, and was provided with six air compartments. His idea of the boat seems to have been a misnomer. Sev- eral people have also safely passed through the rapids in strong casks built specially for the purpose. In July, 1883, Captain Matthew Webb, who had previously swum across the English Channel, lost his life while attempting to swim the rapids. His body was recovered a few days later at Lewiston. A Bostonian named Kendall, in 1886, managed by the aid of a life preserver, to get through alive, though much exhausted. Notwithstanding his success, swimming the rapids has not yet become a popular form of amusement. Leaving the Rapids station, the car passes under the Steel Arch and Cantilever bridges and climbs the bank to the top. At the car sheds we pass the spot where Blondin performed his famous feats on a rope stretched across the gorge in 1859-60. From here we return to the depots and Prospect Park. 67 (O) American Side. Niagara Falls to Svispervsiorv Bridge arvd from Suspension Bridge to Devil's Hole. Electric cars leave Prospect Park every fifteen minutes ; returning, leave Suspension Bridge at same intervals ; run- ning time, about ten minutes ; fare, five cents each way. Transfers from Buffalo, via electric cars, good on this line. Electric cars for Whirlpool Rapids and Devil's Hole leave the terminus near the Cantilever bridge every half hour ; fare, five cents; running time to Devil's Hole, about ten minutes. It is well for the tourist to make this excursion leisurely. Leaving the car at the Suspension Bridge termi- nus, turn to the left down the hill under Cantilever Bridge, one block to Whirlpool street, along this one block to the right, and again turn to the left to the Steel Arch Bridge entrance. An Elevator near the Cantilever Bridge takes passengers down to the rapids. Pass out upon the bridge for a view of the Whirlpool Rapids and the gorge above. Ticket, ten cents, good both ways. (The tourist may, if he wishes, cross the bridge and get view from the Canadian side also.) Returning, pass north down Whirlpool street either one or two blocks, turn to the left and reach the brink of the gorge. (Second street the Cleaner.) This view is essen- tially the same as from the bridge, but gives a distant glimpse of the Whirlpool. Returning to Whirlpool street, continue north to end of the walk, turn to the left one block to the Buttery Rapids Elevator, by means of which descent may be made to the rapids below (fee 50 cents). Returning to Whirlpool street take electric car to De Veaux College (two to three minutes) or walk in ten minutes, following the route of the car line. A plank walk and roadway lead to the left through the college grounds to the Whirlpool. Ticket office and bazaar at the end of the walk. Admission 50 cents. The grounds fronting the Whirlpool are leased by De Veaux College to Miller and Brundage. Tourists patronizing 68 their carriages are sold tickets to view the Whirlpool or the Whirlpool Rapids at half rates, twenty-five cents each. The view here is good but not equal to that seen from the Canadian side. Whirlpool. American Side, to Devil's Hole. From the Whirlpool a pleasant path leads along the top of the gorge to the Devil's Hole, giving a continuous view of the river and Foster's Flats (Canadian side) on the way (one-half to three-quarters of an hour). The electric car from the entrance of the college grounds takes you to the same destination in about five minutes. The Devil's Hole. The building at the terminus has a restaurant at the southern entrance (Michael Glor, proprietor. Drinks, warm meals or lunch. Fish frys and chowders on Sundays.) From the bazaar at the north entrance a winding stairway (fee ten cents) descends. From the foot of this a path fol- lows the base of the cliff on the right to the DeviVs Hde, a ^ i^.. :il.|^4|||^^M|||^i|I^M^^^H , - ^ - •%" '^-^^^^Si ^^^^HB^^. '"'^^ X W']. ■ DEVIL'S PULPIT. Koon:i[, Photo. 69 cave extending back into the limestone, through which a small spring of cold water issues. Farther on, the path emerges upon a platform from which a good view of the gorge is seen, and then winds down on the left to the electric rail- way below. The side gorge, in which the hole occurs, was formed by the erosion of Bloody Run, which formerly made a fall here. The Hole is a cave in the limestone eroded by a small under- ground stream. The rock cut of the N. Y. C. R. R., a few rods to the east, has diverted the water, which formerly flowed through here, leaving the fall and cave nearly dry. From the rock platform ''The Devil's Pulpit," in the rear of the restaurant, is a fine view of the gorge in both direc- tions, and of Foster's Flats, the low-lying area on the Cana- dian side at the left hand. The pulpit is supposed to be the scene of the British massacre in 1763 (page 88). The stone buildings of the Niagara University are seen on the right to the north overlooking the river and gorge. (P) Geological Cxc^irslon from Devil's Hole to Le^viston. From the restaurant follow the walk north across the bridge over the railroad tracks to the quarry. A difficult path at the northern end winds down to the quarry and the railroad tracks. The limestone contains a few nodules of gypsum and calcite with some poor fossils difficult to extract. An easier path may be found further on opposite the Niag- ara University. Turn to the left at the hand-ball grounds (recognized by a high board screen), where a path descends to the railroad tracks, emerging at the base of the Niagara Limestone near a flagman's shelter. In the face of the cliff nearly opposite the shelter is a small cave from which a stream of water emerges in wet seasons. Passing north the Niagara Shale appears below the limestone and is seen higher and higher in the wall of the gorge. About twenty rods south of the second flagman's shelter, where a small sluice crosses the track, the Clinton Limestone a firm compact rock, appears 70 at the surface and has been quarried on the lower side of the track. The underlying green Clinton Shale is seen a short distance further on. The Niagara Shale overlying the Clin- ton, here contains beautiful specimens of the crinoid Caryo- crinus ornatus for which the gorge is famous. The best \m Original. I. P. Bishop, Photo. CRINOID HEAD— Carj'ocrimis oniatiis. Natural Size. horizon for this fossil is included in the six feet of rock just above the Clinton, although good specimens occur anywhere in the shale. As the rock disintegrates, specimens are loos- ened and fall to the track. Several forms of corals and many species of brachiopods are also abundant. Original. I. P. Bishop, Photo. ARTHROPHYCUS HARLANI. 71 The third flagman's shelter may be known by the small evergreen growing on the rock in the rear. Just south of this the upper grey sandstone of the Medina Group is at the sur- face, and opposite the shelter is about three or four feet from the ground. Below it are seen the green and red mot- tled shales and sandstones of the Medina Group. The base of the upper grey band is very rich in the so-called Medina Fucoid, Arthrophycus Harlani, which is now believed to be the track of an invertebrate, as the relief forms all depend from the lower surface of the slab. Other markings, be- lieved to be remains of plants, also occur. The red sand- stone and the shales below contain a few orthoceratites and numerous brachiopods. Excellent markings showing varie- ties of beach action are also visible on the sandstones. One-fourth mile further on a small stream makes a pretty fall over the side of the gorge, and haiS excavated a side ravine. A similar excavation, larger than the first, is also seen near the last flagman's shelter. The watchman, Mr. J. McCormick, has usually a few crinoid heads and other fossils for sale. Beyond the last shelter we pass through the tun- nel, and turning to the left follow a path which leads along the bluff overlooking the Suspension Bridge. The gray sand- stone, upon which the bridge is anchored, is the Quartzose Sandstone of Hall or the Lower Gray Medina Sandstone, which underlies Western New York, and is the reservoir for natural gas in Erie County. The path continues along the edge of the bluff and descends to the electirc railway tracks at the northwest angle. The red shales of the Medina form the banks of the river to Lewiston. The foregoing trip is the favorite one with geologists inter- ested in fossils or in the stratigraphy of the gorge, because in the course of two hours fresh surfaces of all the strata com- posing the walls can be inspected with a minimum of labor. From the railroad station at Lewiston a road leads east- ward up the hill, and forms the principal street of the /. p. Bishop, Photo. A BIT OF THE ANCIENT IROQUOIS BEACH, LEWISTON. village. It is located upon the ancient Iroquois Beach, locally known as the ''Ridge Road," which has been traced from here to the Adirondacks, and marks the southern boundary of a glacial lake having its outlet through the Mohawk Val- ley at Rome, N. Y. The contour of the beach may be seen wherever a street intersects it. The gravel pits in the bluff below the N. Y. C. R. R. station are deposits formed by the same agency. Return to the Falls bv Electric Cars or N. Y. C. R. R. Lewiston. Arrival: Trolley lines from Niagara Falls and Youngs- town and steam cars of the N. Y. C. K. R. set passengers down at the steamboat dock. The R. W. & 0. station is nearly a mile east of the town, but the mail carrier usually transfers passengers. Steamers of the Niagara Navigation Co. from Toronto touch here and at Queenston five times a day, connecting with electric and steam cars for Buffalo. A Steam Ferry (fare ten cents, round trip fifteen cents) plies almost continually between Lewiston and Queenston, which are also connected by trolley line across the bridge. Hotels: The Cornell, 25 rooms, $2.00 per day. Well spoken of. The Angler's Retreat, 13 rooms, $1.50 per day. Also well spoken of. The St. Elmo, 8 rooms, meals forty cents, bed fifty cents. All the above near steamboat and railway termini. Wagnefs Hotel, $2.50 to $4.00 per day, a new summer hotel, commanding a fine view of the entrance to the gorge, Queenston and the river, is about ten minutes' walk from the station. Gorge Route cars pass the door. The Frontier House, located in the village about five minutes' walk east of the steamboat landing:, $2.00 per day ; $7.00 to $10.00 per week. Accommodates about fifty guests. Built of stone in 1825, and of considerable historic interest. At one time it was the finest hotel west of Albany. Webster once held court in it, and it has also sheltered many of the most famous men of the United States. Well spoken of. Lewiston, population 500-600, named after Governor Lewis of New York, is beautifully situated on a plain where the waters of Niagara leave the gorge. Lying at the foot of the portage between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie, it was fi 73 74 for a long time the most important town on the Niagara frontier, and got the most of the traffic arising from travel to and from the upper lakes. La Salle's Stockade (page 87) is supposed to have been located near the present ferry landing. An old tramway, probably the first railway in America, had its lower terminus near the N. Y. C. R. R. tunnel on the southern edge of the village. It extended to the top of the bluff near the site of Fort Gray. The oldest house is that of Mrs. Wheeler, situated on the bluff on the left-hand side of the road leading up from the ferry. It was built by Major Benjamin Barton in 1815 on the site of an old log house of still earlier date. The novelist Cooper is said to have written ''The Spy" in a hotel which stood on the left hand side of the main street where it crosses the N. Y. C. R. R. The site is now occupied by a blacksmith shop. The Lewiston Academy, standing at the end of the same street, was built in 1826, and was long one of the leading educational institutions of Western New York. (Q) Excvirsiorvs from Le^visto^v. To Torontohy the Niagara Navigation Company's steamers in about three hours. Fare $1.25, with cheaper excursions in summer. An exceedingly pleasant trip in hot weather. To Young stown and Fort Niagara by carriage or bicycle, a ride of six or seven miles over a good road, commanding a view of the river, and passing through the greatest orchard region in the State. To Youngstown and Fort Niagara by the Lewiston and Youngstown Frontier Railway. Fare twenty cents. Round trip, thirty-five cents. Cars start from near the N. Y. C. station every half hour during summer, and at longer intervals in winter, carrying both passengers and freight. Running time to Youngstown, fifteen to twenty minutes. The car runs for a distance through the principal street of Lewiston, turns to the left and traverses an open country rich in orchards of apple, pear and peach. The road terminates near the shore of Lake Ontario, where there is a 75 summer resort and picnic ground. The principal object of in- terest is Old Fort Niagara, and the tourist is advised to see that first, returning to Youngstown afterward. The barracks and other buildings for the care of the garrison are of modern construction and devoid of interest. At present (1901) only a detail of soldiers is stationed there as caretakers. The old fort, of brick and earth construction, lies in the angle between the river and lake. The principal gateway is on the river side. Entering the enclosure, the old Powder Magazine, a white- washed structure is seen on the right, with the abandoned Officers' Quarters beyond. Still farther on is the Blockhouse, said to be the building in which Morgan, of anti-masonic noto- riety, was confined. Another blockhouse is seen at the farther corner, near the lake. Nearly in front is the Old French Castle, built in 1728, with the bakery and kitchen near its western angle. At the end of the hall leading westerly from the main entrance of the castle, is a dungeon in which execu- tions are said to have taken place. Entrance to the rifle pits may be gained near the blockhouse at the northeast corner. Outside the fort, and not far from the southwest corner, we pass a military cemetery in which is a monument to the soldiers who fell in the War of 1812. Return to Youngs- town may be made on foot in ten to fifteen minutes, or quicker by trolley. Youngstown, Population about 600, has two hotels, the Eldorado, $2.00 to $2.50 per day, $10.00 to $12.00 per week, and the Ontario House, $1.50 per day, $5.00 to $7.00 per week. The former accommodates 100, the latter about 50 guests. ' Both Lewiston and Youngstown are very popular summer resorts for residents of Buffalo, who find here quiet and restful surroundings. Youngstown is connected by steam ferry with Niagara-on-the-Lake, where steamer for Lewiston or Toronto may be taken. 76 Niagara-on-the-Lake, On the Canadian side opposite Youngstown and Fort Niagara, has a population of about 2,000, and is known principally as a summer resort. The large QiieerCs Royal Hotel ($4.00 per day, $15.00 to $35.00 per week), is open only in summer. Long's Hotel is open all the year. Both are well spoken of. The remains of Fort George can be seen just south of the town, and a fort is still maintained on the site of Fort Massassauga at the mouth of the river. St. Mark's Church, built in 1802, with an old cemetery adjacent, is of interest to the tourist. In addition to steamboat communication, the town is reached by cars of the Michigan Central Railroad. From Buffalo to Niagara Falls. As the greater number of tourists who visit Niagara pass through Buffalo, that city is taken as the starting point of the following itineraries. Points and times of departure are arranged for those stopping in the principal hotel district. Those who leave from the Exposition grounds by electric car can reach Prospect Park in one hour. To reach the steamer docks at the foot of Ferry Street (page 85) from the same place will require 15 to 20 minutes. The principal railroads will have entrance to the Ex- position grounds, but their time-tables should be con- sulted. To Niagara by Electric Car. The yellow electric cars of the International Traction Co. leave the corner of Main Street and the Terrace. Between 6.08 and 7.38 a. m. the cars are run at intervals of thirty minutes; from that time until 6.53 p. m. at intervals of fifteen minutes (ten minutes in summer); from 6.53 p. m. until 11.30 p. m. at inter- vals of thirty minutes. During Pan-American five- minute cars will be run during the busy part of the 77 day, and the right service will probably be made more frequent. As the time tables are liable to frequent change, inquiry should be made at the Company's office, or of the conductors. Time for the trip one hour twenty-two minutes. Fare for round trip to Niagara Falls fifty cents ; one way, thirty-five cents. Buy tickets of conductor. Round trip to Queenston via Niagara Falls Park & River Rail- way, $1.00. Round trip, Buffalo to LewistonYia Great Gorge Route, $1.25. The Great Belt Line trip, Buffalo to Niagara Falls across upper steel arch bridge to Canadian Horseshoe Falls, Queenston, Suspension Bridge to Lewiston, Great Gorge railroad to Niagara Falls and Buffalo, $1.50. The last tour skirts the whole of the Niagara Gorge in view of the prin- cipal points of interest, and is the finest trip of its length in the world. During the Pan-American cars to Niagara Falls will be run direct from the Exposition grounds, leaving probably by the North terminus The left-hand side of the car affords the best view along the route. Time from Expo- sition grounds to Prospect Park, Niagara Falls, about one hour. Leaving the corner of Main street and the Terrace, the car passes up Main street and turns into Niagara street, which it follows for about 20 minutes. In about twelve minutes we pass through the pretty little Prospect Park, beyond which, on the right, is the 74:th Regiment Armory, built of brown stone. Two blocks to the left is the Front, a park overlooking Lake Erie and the head of the Niagara River. Adjoining it is Fort Porter, garrisoned by United States troops. At Ferry street is a steam ferry to Fort Erie, which may be seen across the river. Farther on at Black Rock we cross Scajaquada Creek, and see below the International Bridge of the Grand Trunk Rail- road, built in 1873 and costing $1,500,000. After leaving the City we reach in about fifteen minutes Tonawanda (population 7,421), separated by Tonawanda 78 Creek and the Erie Canal from North Tonawanda (population 9,069), the two towns constituting one of the largest lumber ports in the world. (Best hotel here, the Sheldon House, North side.) The road zig-zags through the suburbs and a little later crosses the New York Central Railroad on a high trestle, from which a fine view of the river may be seen. Across the river on Grand Island is Edgewater, a summer resort. Ferry to Edgewater in summer from foot of trestle. A little higher up opposite Tonawanda was the scene of Maj. Noah's attempt to a found city of refuge for the Jews (page 92). The road now follows the river. Before reaching LaSalle we cross an unfinished canal, an abortive attempt to convey water for power purposes to ''Model City," near Lewiston. Beyond the canal, in the little creek on the left as we reach the village, LaSalle is said to have built the "Griffon" in 1679 (page 85). We next traverse a tract rich in orchards and approach the Power District of Niagara Falls, a new suburb created by the recent development of industries dependent upon electrical and water power. Just before we pass under the tracks of the Terminal Railway we see on the left the works of the Oldhury Electro-Chemical Co., manufacturers of chemicals (no visitors allowed). Beyond the crossing, on the same side, is the factory of the Roberts Chemical Co., making potash and acids. Across the railroad tracks on the right are the Union Carbide Works, the largest manufacturers of calcium carbide in America. The product is used for making acetylene gas, the new illuminant whose light-giving power is claimed to be twenty times that of ordinary coal gas. (No visitors allowed). We next pass on the river side Schlossefs Dock, back of Echota Station, the scene of the Caroline incident (page 93). We see beyond, on the same side, another group of large buildings. The first is that of the Electro Lamp Co. which 79 prepares Calcium Carbide for bicycle and portable acetylene lamps. Adjoining is the factory of the Niagara Electro Chemical Co., makers of metallic sodium and sodium peroxide. (No visitors). The Mathieson Alkali Works, caustic soda and bleaching powder, come next with the upper works of the Pittsburgh Reduction Co. beyond. The same company has another large factory at the lower end of the Power Canal, the two together making as much aluminum in one day as was made in the whole world in the entire year of 1885. It is practically the only manufactory of this metal m the United States and the largest in the world. (No admission). ELECTRIC FURNACE— Carborundum Works. The Niagara Carborundum Works adjacent make car- borundum (silicon carbide) under the Acheson patents. It is next to the diamond in hardness and now has a wide range of uses as an abrasive. The company issues a neat pamphlet, illustrating their processes and the various forms of their 80 product (to be had on application). Next beyond the Acheson Graphite Co. makes graphite and carbons for elec- trolytic processes. (No visitors). The old chimney of For^ Little Niagara (page 86) may be seen in the rear. Litharge ^nd red lead are made by the Electric Lead Reduction Co., next door. (No visitors). All the foregoing industries use electricity, not only as a motive power, but as the chemical or mechanical agent for making their various products. With the fac- tories depending upon the power canal it forms prob- ably the greatest group of electro-chemical industries in the world. CK.ielson, Photo. POWER AND TRANSFORMER HOUSES— Niagara Falls Power Co. Next we pass the stone Power and Transformer Houses of the Niagara Falls Power Co. at the head of the great tunnel (open to visitors 9 a. m. to 5.30 p. m. week days, 10 a. m. to 4 p. m. Sundays). Admission to gallery ten cents, to floor and wheel pit, with guide twenty-five cents. Fees to endow employees beds at Niagara Memorial Hospital. The huge mill of the International Paper Co., one of the largest paper manufacturies in America (No visitors) is the last important building before we cross the 81 TRANSFORMERS— Niagara Falls Power Co. Hydraulic Canal, whence the car passes through Erie and Falls street to Prospect Park. From Buffalo to Niagara Falls by Steam Cars. New York Central Railroad trains leave the Exchange street Station for Niagara Falls at intervals of about an hour, from 6.20 a. m. until 11.45 p. m. week days, and until 9.10 p. m. Sundays. Nearly all trains stop also at the Terrace Station (reached from Main street by West Swan street), Ferry street and Black Rock. (Time tables obtained at stations should be consulted, as train program is liable to change). From the Exchange and Terrace Stations the train runs to the shore of Lake Erie, which it follows for a short dis- tance, giving a brief view of the harbor and breakwater. The large yellow building on the pier at the left is the quarters of the Buffalo Yacht Club. Before reaching the bridge across the canal the Front Park is seen on the bluff to the right, and near it the grounds of Fort Porter, 83 distinguished by a flag pole. Across the river, where it leaves the lake, are the ruins of Fort Erie. Beyond the bridge we pass next the brick buildings of the Pumping Station, con- taining among others two of the largest pumping engines in the world. From Ferry street, the next station, the route is near that of the Electric railway, for itinerary of which see page 76. Six trains for Niagara Falls by the Erie Railroad leave the Station on Exchange street between 7.15 a. m. and 8.30 p. m. For time of leaving time cards should be consulted. The Erie road passes through the eastern part of the City, northv/ard as far as Tonawanda, whence it parallels the New York Central Railroad to the Falls. From Tonawanda the itinerary of the electric road will serve. The Lehigh Railroad runs six trains daily to Niagara Falls between 6.35 a. m. and 10 p. m. Trains leave the Station at Scott and Washington streets and run eastward nearly to Depew, then northward through Williamsville to Tonawanda, whence the route is near that of the Erie and Central road. From Buffalo to Niagara Falls by Steamer. The Inter- national Navigation Co. (office foot of Ferry street, Buffalo) will run steamers from May 1st to November 1st, 1901, between Buffalo and Slater's Point above Chippewa, on the Canadian side. The first boat will leave Ferry street at 8.00 a. m. and be followed by others hourly until 7.00 p. m. or later, if travel warrants. (Boat leaves 9.00 p. m. during July and August. ) After leaving her dock the steamer heads down stream through the draw of the International Bridge and passes Black Rock Harbor on the right. A little farther on is Strawberry Island, below^ which the river divides, embrac- ing Grand Island. Below Strawberry Island 2^ ferry connects Grand Island with the American shore. The boat follows the left hand or Canadian Channel. The shore of the island on the right is enlivened with numerous summer hotels, club houses and villas, the temporary homes 84 of city people during the hot season. The Canadian shore is low and less interesting. Near the northern end of Grand Island a narrow channel opens to the right, giving a glimpse of Buckhorn Island and Burnt Ship Bay (page 87). We keep the channel nearest the Canadian shore. The island on the right is Navy Island, the stronghold of the insurgents in the Patriot War (page 93). Slater's Point, where we land, is on the old battlefield of Chippewa (page 90). Con- nections are made here with the electric cars of the Niagara Falls Park Railway, or the Horseshoe Falls, and the trip around the gorge (page 77). At Queenston connections are made with steamers for Toronto. If the tourist is not pressed for time, this route is recom- mended as being both cool and pleasant. Although the scenery on the upper river lacks the grandeur of the Hudson or Rhine, it is sufficiently varied to be interesting all the way. The time from Buffalo to the Falls is but little longer by this route ; and as the visitor is landed above the Canadian Rapids he is not obliged to go over the same ground twice, and therefore will accomplish quite as much in a day as by the other routes. Meals may be conveniently taken at the Dufferin Restaurant, Lafayette House, or at Niagara Falls North (page 11). History. The first knowledge of the Niagara region was given to the world by the French missionaries and explorers. In his ''Des Sauvages" published in 1604 Champlain refers to the river and Falls and relates what the Indians had told him of them and the region beyond. In 1615 Brule, Champlain's interpreter, visited the Neuter Indians near the mouth of the river and may have been the first white man to see the Falls. LaSalle first came to Niagara in 1669. Gallinee, who ac- companied him, tells in his journal of the Niagara River and of hearing the roar of the Falls. In 1678, LaSalle planned a second expedition ; LaMotte, Hennepin and fourteen others were sent ahead from Frontenac in a vessel of ten tons, while LaSalle followed a few days later. On December 6 of that year the little brigantine came to anchor in the mouth of the Niagara on the point now occupied by Fort Niagara, where LaMotte and Hennepin established a trading post for traffic with the Indians. Later they sailed up the river, and where Lewiston now stands built a cabin fortified by palisades for the double purpose of a store house and as a means of defense. Here they were joined by LaSalle. Taking from his vessel cordage, anchors and ship-builders^ tools, he had them transported from the new fort overland, a distance of twelve miles, to the mouth of Cayuga Creek. Here on the site of the village which bears his name he built the Griffon, the first sailing vessel to navigate the waters of the Great Lakes. The little ship was completed in 1679, and in it LaSalle made his famous voyage westward, crossing Lakes Erie and Huron, and reaching Green Bay on Lake Michigan. From this place LaSalle and Hennepin proceeded 85 86 to the present site of Chicago, and the Griffon, loaded with furs, started to return. But on her way back the little vessel was overtaken by the September equinoctial gales and foundered somewhere between Washington Island and Mackinaw on lake Michigan^ The first written description of the Niagara Falls is con- tained in Father Hennepin's ''New Discovery" published in 1697. In this he says that he ''personally visited" the Falls in December, 1678, and therefore not long after La- Salle's landing at the mouth of the Niagara. He gives a brief but vivid description of the cataract, which he thinks "above six hundred feet high, " and accompanies it with what is probably the first sketch of the Falls ever made. The portage road followed by LaSalle soon became the established route between Lake Ontario and the Upper Niagara River. From the fort where Lewiston now stands it passed diagonally up the bluff to the top and thence con- tinued south nearly parallel with the river to navigable water above the Falls. At the upper end of the portage, near the present site of the Acheson Graphite Go's Factory, Fort de Portage, afterwards called Little Fort Niagara, was built in 1750, with storehouses and barracks adjacent. An old stone chimney yet standing still marks the site of the latter structure. In the great struggle for supremacy in America between France and England, lasting from 1744 to 1763, the Niagara Frontier became the scene of many sanguinary conflicts. Fort Niagara guarded the doorway to the French possessions on the Great Lakes, the Ohio and the Mississippi, which were a constant menace to the English colonies from the rear. On this account it was only second in importance to Quebec, and was the goal of several expeditions sent out by one or the other nation. LaSalle's original post, erected in 1679, was burned within a year, but was rebuilt of stone by De- Nonville in 1687, both as a means of defense and for con- trolling the fur trade. It was at first called Fort Nonville, 87 after the builder, but the name was afterwards changed to Fort Niagara, by which title it has been known ever since. In 1759 the British, under Gen. Prideaux, came here from Oswego with a force of 2,950 men, 750 of whom were Indians. Landing about four miles east of the fort he proceeded to invest it, throwing up a triple line of intrench- ments for the better protection of his men. During the siege which followed Gen. Prideaux was killed, and the command devolved upon Sir William Johnson, who captured the fort and garrison, after a few days' hard fighting. Hearing of the fail of Fort Niagara, Joncaire, who was in command at Little Fort Niagara, believing that he could not hold it against the English, burned the fort and barracks and retreated to Chippewa. While the English were beseiging Fort Niagara, reinforcements and supplies were sent by the French at Venango, Pa., to their friends in the former place. The flotilla carrying them reached Navy Island ; but hearing of the fall of Fort Niagara, and fearing that the supplies might be captured by the English, the French Commander took his ships into a small bay on the north side of Grand Island and there burned them. From this circumstance the spot received the name of Burnt Ship Bay. Note. Local tradition places the rendezvous of the French not at Navy, but on Buckhorn Island, at the time a peninsula connected with Grand Island by a narrow isthmus. Accord- ing to this account the French intended to leave their ships in comparative safety in the sheltered waters of the cove, cross to the mainland below where Tonawanda now is, and attack the British at Little Fort Niagara. The English, however, anticipated them, by crossing to Grand Island, a little higher upstream, and hemming the French in upon the northern end of the island. Seeing that he could not ex- tricate his ships, the French commander burned them to prevent their falling into the hands of the enemy. Musket bullets, buttons and other articles characteristic of a battle- field are picked upon plowed fields at the northern end of 88 Grand Island, and are believed to be relics of the fighting which accompanied this episode. In 1761 Joseph Schlosser built the fort which bore his name, about 40 rods east of where Fort Little Niagara had stood. The Devil's Hole Massacre. The success of 1759 gave the British complete control of the Niagara Frontier, and practically decided the destiny of France in America; but the Seneca Indians, who had been allies of the French, remained sullen, and in 1763 began a campaign against the English. On September 14th of that year a wagon train, under military guard, was passing between Fort Schlosser and Fort Niagara. As they were crossing a small stream about midway between the two places, the savages poured a murderous fire upon them from ambush, killing a large number, and then rushed upon them with the tomahawk and drove the survivors and the frantic teams over the precipice. Of the whole company only three persons escaped alive. A drummer boy was caught in a tree by his belt which broke his fall ; a wounded wagon-driver rolled into a thicket, where he was overtaken by the savages ; and a third, John Steadman, spurred his horse through the Indians and reached Fort Schlosser in safety. Hearing the noise of the battle, a detachment of troops stationed at Lewiston marched to the relief of their friends and in- cautiously fell into the same trap. Of the whole troop only eight escaped. The rest were butchered, scalped and their bodies thrown over the cliff into the gorge. From the sanguinary conflict upon its banks the little stream received the name of Bloody Run. The War of 1812. The Battle of Queenston Heights. Following the declaration of war between Great Britain and the United States in 1812, military operations at once began along the frontier of Canada, the nearest accessible British territory. The first events were disastrous to the Americans. In the Upper Lake region. Fort Mackinaw was 89 surprised and captured and Hull surrendered Detroit and his army to the British General, Isaac Brock, almost without a struggle. Early in the autumn of 1812, Gen. Van Renssellear collected an army of about 2,500 raw New York militia at Lewiston. On October 12 he was joined by a force of 450 regulars from Fort Niagara and by Col. Scott's regiment from Black Rock. Leaving a part of his forces on the American side Van Renssellear, early in the following morning, crossed the river under a terrific fire, and with a few hundred men captured Queenston Heights in a short but spirited battle, in which nearly every commissioned officer of the attacking party was either killed or wounded. British reinforcements arriving from Fort George, Gen. Brock rallied the detached troops, and dividing his force into two divisions, attacked at the same time from in front and the right flank. The Americans resisted bravely, but were finally either killed, captured or driven over the precipice into the gorge. Among the captured was Col. Scott, who had crossed the river, under a hot fire, to aid his country- men. The American militia who had remained on the other side, seeing the battle going adversely, became frightened and refused to go to the aid of their comrades. Had they done so the result might have been different. In leading the attack against the heights, Gen. Brock was killed. At the foot of the mountain an inscribed stone, set by the Prince of Wales in 1860, marks the spot were Brock fell; on the heights above a graceful column, towering heavenward, attests the appreciation of a grateful country, 1813. On May 27 the combined army and navy force under Gen. Dearborn and Commodore Chauncey had assembled at Fort Niagara for an attack upon Fort George, which was almost opposite upon the Canadian side. Owing to the illness of Gen. Dearborn the command devolved upon Col. Scott, who a short time before had been a prisoner in Fort George. The English were driven out without difficulty, blowing up 90 one of the magazines as they left. With the fort the village of Newark, then the oldest and most important vil- lage on the frontier, fell into the hands of the Americans. In a short time the British posts at Chippewa and Fort Erie were abandoned, and the Americans held undisputed possession of the Niagara from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. In December the British again assumed the offensive, and compelled the evacuation of Fort George. Gen. McClure, who was in command, finding that he could not hold the fort against the enemy, blew up the magazine, burned the village of Newark and retreated to Fort Niagara. Incensea at the destruction of Newark, the British immediately retaliated. Ten days later they crossed the river, surprised and captured Fort Niagara, and sacked and burned Youngstown, Lewiston and the Tuscarora village. Then they marched southward and burned Manchester (now Niagara Falls) and Fort Schlosser, and devastated the whole frontier. Gen. Riall crossed the river above Grand Island, attacked and captured Black Rock, and on December 30th, burned the village of Buffalo, leaving only four houses standing. The Battles of Fort E^rie and Chippewa. Early in the year 1814 the American forces, under Gen. Brown, were assembled at Buffalo, while the British occupied the Canadian side of the river. On July 3d two divisions, under Scott and Ripley, crossed the river, and after a short engagement captured Fort Erie, with 170 men and seven officers. On the following day Scott advanced northward, driving before him the British under the Marquis of Tweeddale, by whom every step of the way was contested. At dark the British crossed Chippewa Creek, resting on the northern bank, while Scott's forces lay on the south side of Street's Creek. During the night the Americans were reinforced by troops under Brown, swelling their number to 1,900, while the opposing forces numbered about 2,100. During the morning of the 5th only skirmishing was done, with no material advantage to either side. About 3 p. m. the 91 British advanced in force across the plain between the two streams and were met by an impetuous charge from the Americans under Scott. The battle, although short, was one of the hardest fought of the war. The British were de- feated and recrossed the Chippewa to their intrenchments. The Battle of Lundy's Lane. Two or three days after the battle of Chippewa the British retreated to the forts at the head of Lake Ontario, where they were heavily reinforced by troops from Kings- ton. The Americans, who had followed them as far as Queenston returned to Chippewa, hoping that the British commander would send a part of his forces in pursuit, and thus a battle with the whole at one time might be avoided. On the 25th Gen. Brown heard that a large force of the enemy had crossed the river at Lewiston to intercept sup- plies destined for Fort Niagara. He at once ordered Scott, with 1,300 men, to march to Queenston and threaten the forts, while he, as soon as he could break camp, would follow with the rest of the army. Gen. Brown's informa- tion proved to be false; for when Scott reached Lundy's Lane, near Niagara Falls, he found the whole British army, 4,000 strong, with nine pieces of artillery entrenched upon high ground. Supposing this to be a detachment of the main army, which he had heard to be on the other side of the river, Scott boldly attacked and held the British in check until Brown arrived. The battle raged from late in the afternoon until midnight. By a daring charge the Ameri- cans captured the battery and drove the British from the feld, holding it against repeated efforts on the part of the enemy to recapture it. Both Brown and Scott were wounded and had to be carried from the field. The former ordered Gen. Ripley to take command and remove the captured cannon and the wounded to Chippewa. For some reason the field was not properly guarded, and before morning the British returned, reoccupied their position and claimed a victory. 92 The Siege of Fort Erie. After the battle of Lundy's Lane the American forces occupied Fort Erie and strongly fortified it. On August 3d the British General Drummond, with 1,100 men, arrived and laid siege to the fort. After several unsuccessful at- tempts, they succeeded, on the 15th, in scaling the walls and getting possession of the outer defenses. Before they could make use of the advantage which they had gained, a magazine exploded beneath them hurling the men into the air and killing a large number. In the confusion which followed the Amer- icans made a resolute attack, and the British broke and fled. A period of inactivity followed. On September 17 the besieged made a sortie, captured the works of the British and forced them to abandon the siege. Fort Erie and the British entrenchments were dismantled, and the Americans returned to their own side of the river. This was the last important engagement of the war on the Niagara Frontier. The Treaty of Ghent, in December following, restored peace to the two countries. The Morgan Incident. In 1824 William Morgan, a resident of Batavia, N. Y., announced his intention of publishing the secrets of the Masonic Fraternity, of which organization he was a member. He was quietly seized, thrust into a carriage and driven away in the direction of the Canadian border. He was traced as far as Fort Niagara, where he is said to have been confined in one of the magazines. Whether he left the fort or not is unknown, but he was never heard of afterward. The popular belief is that he was taken from his dungeon by night and drowned in the waters of Niagara or Lake Ontario. The episode created intense excitement at the time and brought on an Anti-Masonic agitation which lasted for many years. The Jewish Colonization Scheme. In the same year Major Mordecai M. Noah planned to build on Grand Island, a ^'Gity of Ararat" as a place of refuge for the Jews of the New World. His plan included the colonization of the whole island, and the building up of an ideal industrial and commercial community for his own people. The spot selected for the beginning of this enter- prise was at Whitehaven, opposite the village of Tonawanda, where the corner stone, previously laid with imposing ceremonies on the altar of a Christian church in Buffalo, was imbedded in a monument. But the Patriarch of Jerusalem refused to sanction the scheme, and Major Noah's plans came to nothing. The corner-stone is now in the collection of the Buffalo Historical Society. The Burning of the Caroline. While the Upper Canadian rebellion, known also as the patriot war, was in progress in 1837, the leaders of the in- surgents established themselves on Navy Island. The Steamer Caroline of Buffalo was chartered by them for a ferry boat and for carrying visitors to and from Buffalo. Believing that the steamer was to be used for offensive operations against Canada, the Canadians despatched a picked band of men, about forty in all, in five boats to destroy her. Leav- ing the Canadian shore December 29, under cover of night, they crossed the river and found the Caroline lying at Schlosser's Dock on the American side. The crew and about twenty-five others who were sleeping on board for lack of hotel facilities in the neighborhood, were driven ashore, after a short contest, in which one man was killed. The Caroline was then set on fire, towed about 200 yards out into the stream and turned adrift. She burned to the water's edge and sank before reaching the rapids. This breach of international law caused great excitement, and for a time it was feared that war between England and America would be the result. Diplomacy, however, pre- vailed, and the matter was satisfactorily settled. \ Rope Walkers and Bridge Jumpers. Blondin came to Niagara in 1859 with his business manager, Harry Calcourt. He gave his first performances on a wire cable which was stretched across the Gorge from White's 94 Pleasure Ground, about where the car-sheds of the Gorge Road now stand At a subsequent exhibition, the cable was stretched across the Whirlpool Rapids, just north of the present Lower Arch Bridge. Among some of his feats were walking across the rope, chained hand and foot ; making the passage in the evening; crossing with his feet incased in butter tubs ; crossing without a balancing pole ; carrying a cooking stove to the middle of the rope, where he stopped and cooked an omelette ; turning handsprings, standing on his head, or sitting down sideways on the rope two hundred feet above the water, and many other equally daring acts. His greatest exploit was performed in 1860, when he carried Calcourt across the Whirlpool Rapids on his back, in the presence of the Prince of Wales. Four times in the course of the trip Blondin stopped to rest, each time setting his burden down upon the rope and resuming it to continue his journey. (For a more complete account of Blondin, see Guide to Niagara Falls ^ F. H. Severance page 90, and W. D. Ho wells in the Niagara Book, by Underhill & Nichols, page 16. ) Since Blondin' s day other walk-ropers have imitated his feats with more or less success. In 1873 Bellini crossed on a rope stretched from Prospect Park to the opposite side near the Ferry Road. He jumped three times from the middle of the cable to the river, using a rubber cord twelve feet long Peere fastened to the cable to keep him upright. Stephen successfully crossed on a wire rope above the old Suspension Bridge, in 1878, and also jumped from the wire to the water. He was killed by falling over the bank of the Gorge in 1887. Samuel Dixon also crossed on the same wire. Madame Spellerini and others have made the passage safely at various times, but no one achieved the reputation attained by Blondin. Other Bridge Junipers. In 1886 Lawrence M. Donovan, of New York, jumped from the railing of the Upper Suspension Bridge, a distance of 200 feet, to the water below. The fall broke one of his ribs, but he was rescued and survived. Stratigraphy. The Niagara River leaves Lake Erie through a break in the Corniferous limestone which forms the floor of the lake at its eastern end. Beneath the Corniferous are the water- lime beds of the upper Salina, crossing the river between the water works and the International Bridge. From the latter place to the rapids the river flows across the Salina shales which crop out on the Canadian side at various points between the bridge and Grand Island, at the head of Grand Island itself, and at Edgewater. With these exceptions the banks of the river are composed of reddish clay deposited from the glacial waters of Lake Warren. About a mile above the falls the Niagara limestone appears in the bed of the river which now descends for about a mile in rapids, and plunges over a precipice into the gorge below.* Near the top of the rapids the river is divided by Goat Island into two divisions, one of which forms the American and the other the Canadian or Horseshoe Falls. From the Cataract to Lewiston and Queenston the river flows through a gorge, the sides of which are formed of solid rock with similar strata cropping out at corresponding levels on both walls. In width the gorge ranges from 750 to 1700 feet, and its greatest depth from top to water's edge is a little over 300 feet. The greatest measured depth of water, nearly op- posite the American Fall, is 189 feet, but it is believed that the whirlpool may exceed even that. With the exception of the Corniferous limestone at Buf- falo, all the rocks lying in the bed of the river or forming *The descent from Lake Erie to the rapids at Port Day is ten feet ; from Port Day to the edge of the American Fall forty-nine feet ; height of Ameri- can Fall 167 feet ; from American FaU to Lake Ontario 100 feet ; total 326 feet. The Canadian Fall is 158 feet high, and consequently the descent on the rapids above, a little more than on the American side. As the height of the fall is measured from the crest to the level of the water below, it may vary from four to twenty feet, depending upon low or high water. 95 96 the sides of the gorge are stratified and of Silurian age. They dip gradually towards the south, the lower strata dis- appearing at the head of the river under the higher mem- bers. The cut on page 97 adapted from Hall shows the strata in their order of deposition. Photographs illustrat- ing details are also seen on pages 51 and 58. Medina Clinton Niagara Salina 1. 4. j5. (6. f7. 9. 10. Red shales and sandstones seen in the bank of the river at Lewiston and extending to Lake Ontario. Grey quartzose sandstone (White Medina). Red shales like No. 1, with thin courses of red and mottled sandstone (Red Medina Sandstone) near the top. A thin band of grey quartzose sandstone (Upper Grey Medina). A thin band of greenish shale (Clinton shale). Compact grey limestone (Clinton limestone). Soft argillo-calcareous shale (Niagara shale). Compact glodiferous limestone. Upper thin bedded limestone constituting with 8 the Niagara limestone. Onondaga or Salina group, including the hydraulic limestone or beds of passage to the next rock. Onondaga and Corniferous limestones, Drift and fluviatile deposits. aa, b, c, d, f, g, h, dotted line represents surface of the river from Lewiston to Lake Erie. d-f the perpendicular fall over the Niagara limestone and shale. f-g the rapids. c the whirlpool, k, i, n, position of falls and rapids after a recession of one mile, p, 0, m, position of falls and rapids after a recession of two miles. 97 ''-^iv, '^^o rH V/}fi iKh Nlh III : hM^ III, 'C/f ''Or How^ the Gorge Was Made. The river falls over the hard Niagara limestone, beneath which is a stratum of soft calcareous shale. In its descent the lower part of the sheet acquires a greater velocity than the upper, and tends to separate from it, thus producing a. vacuum, and drawing in air after the manner of a Bunsen pump. When the water column strikes the base of the cliff, the included air is violently expelled and drives a portion of the water as spray outward into the air, and another portion inward, like a sand blast, against the cliff behind the fall. This jet partly by impact and partly by solution digs out the soft shales, undermining the limestone above, which being left without support, falls of its own weight and that of the water upon it. Frost and other atmospheric agencies cause rock to split off from the edges and fall into the gorge, slowly widening it and increasing the slope of the sides. Thus the brink of the cataract is moved up stream and the work of erosion begins anew. Under the American Fall the stream has not sufficient vol- ume to remove the fallen blocks of limestone, and they remain piled up at the base of the cliff, in a measure protecting it from erosion. At the Horseshoe over which, as has been said, nearly nine-tenths of the waters of the river plunge, the conditions are different. The cataract falls into a pool estimated to be from 175 to 200 feet deep. A part of the air carried down by the water is expelled at the surface of the pool, producing undercutting as previously described. A large part is also carried by the momentum of the falling water deep down below the surface, where it is compressed by the weight of the water above it and, expanding after- wards, forms great bubbles. (Page 40). It is believed that the blocks of limestone which fall from the cliff into the pool are whirled about on the bottom by powerful gyratory currents and thus excavate and deepen the gorge by the familiar process of ''pot holing." By such simple means geologists now believe the river has> 99 excavated its gorge a distance of six and one-half miles from Lewiston to the present site of the Horseshoe. (See History of Niagara River, G. K. Gilbert, Sixth Ann. Rept. Comrs. N. Y. State Reservation at Niagara 1890. ) Retrogression of the Falls. In 1842 Professor James Hall, State Geologist, made a trigonometrical survey of the Falls, marking the stations from which observations were taken with permanent monu- ments. Later surveys were made by others in 1875, 1886 and 1890. State Engineer Bogart, who made the last sur- vey, estimates the mean retrogression for the 48 years intervening to be as follows : * American Fall, 7.68 inches per year. Horseshoe Fall, 26.16 inches per year. Total area of recession for the same time : American Fall, 7.55 acre (about | acre). 1000 Horseshoe Fall 6.32 acres. From 1886 to 1890 the average recession was : American Fall, 1.65 ft. Horseshoe Fall, 5.01 ft. From errors discovered in the original survey. Prof. G. K. Gilbert estimates the annual recession of the Horseshoe, from 1842 to 1875, to have been greater than stated above, probably as great as four to six feet. At the apex of the Horseshoe erosion is going on much more rapidly than else- where, the average recession between 1886 and 1890 being at the rate of about twenty feet per year. Large masses of rock become detached and fall into the abyss with a noise that can be heard at a distance of a mile or more, lengthen- ing the gorge by several times the average annual amount. The first recorded fall was in 1832. On Feburary 1, 1852, a section of the precipice extending from Goat Island to Terrapin Tower, 125 feet long by sixty feet wide, and extending to the bottom of the cliff, broke off and (*Report Comrs. N. Y. State Reservation at Niagara, 1891.) LofC. 100 fell with a terrific crash. A smaller fall occurred on the following day. In 1867 and again in 1884 large masses were detached with a concussion which was plainly felt in the neighborhood. The last great fall was in 1889, when an area of at least an acre disappeared from the heart of the Horseshoe. Thickness of Strata. In the vicinity of the Falls the Niagara limestone is about 164 feet thick, only about eighty feet of which are in sight at the cataract. The underlying shales are from seventy to eighty feet thick. The Clinton limestone has an average thickness of twenty feet, with a stratum of green shale three to four feet thick beneath. At the Horseshoe Fall the Niagara limestone appears to exceed its usual thickness, and this may be due to a local lenticular mass in the formation or to the beginning of a more general thickening of this member. Numerous borings for gas in Erie County, N. Y. , south of Buffalo, show that the strata increase in thickness in that direction. The average thickness of the several di- visions in a large number of wells was : * Niagara limestone, .... 247 ft. Niagara shale, . . Clinton limestone. Red Medina sandstone, Quartzose sandstone. 72 ft. 27 ft. 94 ft. 15 ft. Evidence that the River Has Once Flowed at a Higher Level. Both banks of the river are terraced for some distance above the Falls and along the sides of the gorge below. Hall makes four of these within the limits of Prospect Park. At least three can be readily distinguished on the Canadian side opposite the Upper Steel Arch Bridge, and they are also seen in several places south of the Whirlpool. These are be- lieved to represent stages in the life of the river when it (*Bishop Geology of Erie Co. Kept. State Geologist, 1895. Page 390). 101 flowed at higher levels. The shells of fresh water mollusks, some species of which are now extinct, but the greater part of which are still living in the Niagara River, are found in great abundance in the gravel of these terraces from the highest down. They show that the several stages of the river indicated by the terraces are all recent, and that the river itself is comparatively young. Localities where these may be found are indicated on the accompanying maps. Geological History, At a comparatively recent epoch in geological times a great glacier or ice sheet formed in the region north of the St. Lawrence River, and moved southward across New Eng- land, the Middle States, and as far west as the Mississippi River. Before that time the valleys where the Great Lakes now are were drained by a complex river system, whose outlet was probably through the St. Lawrence valley. One branch of this river received the waters of the present Erie Basin and joined the main streani near the present western end of Lake Ontario, following approximately the route of the present Welland Canal. The ice-sheet, which is believed to have been from 1000 to 5000 feet thick, pushed its way southward, abrading the surface and filling up depressions With the debris thus formed, until it reached a region so warm that the daily melting equalled the advance of the ice. The earth and stones collected by the glacier in its progress were thus loosened and deposited along the edge of the ice as terminal moraines. South of Buffalo this limit was near Salamanca and Olean, but eastward it extended farther south, reaching the sea at the mouth of the Hudson River, and westward passing below the parallel of Cincinnati. After- wards the climate became much warmer, probably owing to a lowering of the continent, and the glacier retreated, halt- ing at times or even advancing for short distances, but on the whole slowly forsaking the ground which it had occu- pied. When the ice sheet had retrogressed until its edge was north of the rim of the lake basins the water from the 102 melting ice and snow and from rain gathered between the ice front and the divide, forming lakes. Each lake stood at the level of the lowest point on its rim, which became its out- let. At first the lakes were small, but as they expanded their boundaries new and lower outlets became uncovered, and the water dropped to lower and lower levels. If the lake stood at the same height for a considerable time, the action of the waves upon the shore made beaches like those found around our lakes today. One of these lakes. Lake Warren, extended over a large part of the Erie- Ontario Basin, making a well marked beach, which may be seen at Hamburg, Alden and Crittenden, near Buffalo. Dur- ing its earlier stages this lake drained into the Mississippi Valley at Fort Wayne, Ind., and later across lower Michigan, emptying at the present site of Chicago. In the deep valleys of the present great lakes the ice was thicker than elsewhere and staid longer. One ice lobe retreated in a northeasterly direction through the Erie-Ontario basin, while another took a more northerly course through the Lake Huron Valley. Still another arm of the glacier filled the Mohawk-Hudson Valley. At last the ice retreated from the Mohawk-Hudson Valley, making a lower outlet and allowing the waters to escape eastward to the sea through that channel. The sur- face of the water lowered to the base of the escarpment at Lewiston, a distance of more than 500 feet, laying bare much land that had been covered with water before, and forming a smaller lake in the Ontario basin, which has been named Lake Iroquois. The outlet of this was at Rome, N. Y., and through" this opening its waters were discharged for a long time. The Iroquois beach, upon which the Ridge Road is built, has been traced from Lewiston eastward to the Ad- irondacks on the American side, and from Queenston to* Belle- ville, Ont., on the Canadian side. Later when the ice had retreated still farther to the northeast, but when the lower St. Lawrence was blocked with ice, an opening was made be- tween the ice and the base of the Adirondacks, allowing the 103 water to escape around their eastward mountain slope. Later still the ice left the St. Lawrence Valley, and the waters of Lake Iroquois drained through the present channel of the St. Lawrence, which was then at a lower level than now, leaving Lake Ontario a smaller lake than at present. While the Erie-Ontario basins were being freed from ice another lobe of the glacier was also retreating through the valleys now occupied by Lake Huron and Georgian Bay. When the waters of Lake Warren fell below the escarpment at Lewiston, Lake Erie was formed, smaller than now, and independent of the lakes on the north which still poured their waters through the opening at Chicago. Lake Huron was at this time about half freed from ice. The continued ret- rogression of the glacier later uncovered other outlets at lower levels, by which the water escaped to the Ontario-St. Lawrence basin. The most important of these was by way of Lake Nipissing and the Ottawa River, through which route the waters of the upper lakes reached the sea for a long time. Afterwards all the country to the northeast of the lake region slowly rose, tilting the lake basins southwest- ward and causing the waters of the Upper Great Lakes to fall away from their northern outlet and spill over their lowest point, which happened to be on the southern rim at Port Huron. The waters of the Upper Lakes then added their volume to those of Lake Erie, and the drainage of the Great Lakes has remained practically what it is now ever since. During the advance and retreat of the ice sheet the old river valleys were filled in places by glacial drift and mo- raines obstructing drainage and retaining the waters as lakes. When the waters of Lake Warren first lowered below the escarpment at Lewiston, Niagara River had its birth. For a time the waters escaping from the shallow Lake Erie to Lake Iroquois flowed in a thin sheet across a nearly level plain, falling over the rim of the lower basin at four points 104 which were lower than the rest. These were located at Clarendon, Shelby, Gasport, Lockport and Lewiston. ''Most of these were of brief duration, but the one at Lockport con- tinued for a considerable period, competing with Niagara for establishment, as the permanent outlet of Lake Erie. At length, for some cause, not clearly understood, the Lew- iston outlet became the lowest and diverted the waters from the others. A cataract became established at the edge of the escarpment and gradually cut its way back to its present position." * The site of the Lockport Fall may be seen by tourists entering that city from the west via the New York Central Railroad, as a ravine on the left-hand side of the track just before entering the town. St. David's Channel. Extending northwestward from the whirlpool is an old gorge which opens out with a wide mouth at the escarpment, near St. Davids. At the whirlpool it is occupied in part by the ravine of Bowman's Creek, but for the rest of the way it is almost entirely filled with drift. Geologists be- lieve this to have been the bed of a stream of preglacial or interglacial age, antedating, perhaps by many thousand years, the Niagara which has carved out the present gorge above the whirlpool. The width and depth indicate that it was made by a stream very nearly as large as the Niagara of today, and the length shows that it could not have been long lived in a geological sense. For these reasons F. B. Taylor, an authority on glacial geology, believes it to have been formed during a temporary retreat of the ice sheet which afterwards advanced and covered this region again. Additional evidence of interglacial action is also found in the fact that the bed of the Niagara River, where it leaves Lake Erie, was smoothed by glacial action after having been cut out by the usual processes of river erosion. As the preglacial outlet of Lake Erie was by way of the present *(01d Tracks of Erian Drainage— C. K. Gilbert, BuH. Geol. Soc. of America. Vol. 8, 105 Welland Canal, the inference is very strong that the waters of the lakes discharged for a time by this route after the Welland route was closed, and that the outlet was afterwards filled by a moving glacial mass. Age of the Niagara Gorge. If the volume of water in the river had always been con- stant, estimating the age of the gorge would be easy and approximately accurate. The present recession of the Horse- shoe Fall is at the rate of four to six feet per year. If we divide the total length of the gorge in feet by the average of these figures, the result is a close approximation to the theoretical age under these conditions. But G. K. Gilbert, F. B. Taylor and others have shown that at different periods in the history of the river a part of the waters of the upper lakes have reached the ocean by other channels. Therefore the volume of the river has fluc- tuated, and the rate of recession has been sometimes much less than at present. Taylor thinks the cutting of the por- tion of the gorge between the Horseshoe Fall and the Can- tilever Bridge required from 5,000 to 10,000 years, and of the whirlpool rapids several times that amount. On this basis the time required to cut the whole gorge could hardly be less than 70,000 years, and might be twice that number, or even more. Dr. J. W. Spencer, working with different data, computes the river's age as 32,000 years, and Mr. Warren Upham thinks 7,000 years enough. While those most competent to judge of the matter believe that no estimate yet made has much value, the present trend of opinion is toward the longer rather than the shorter time. The Future of the Falls. Since the Niagara limestone forming the crest of the falls dips to the south, the exposed edge will necessarily wear away and become lower as the fall travels up stream. The result would necessarily be, if no other cause intervened to 106 prevent, that the limestone would ultimately drop to the level of the water in the lower gorge and the falls would dis- appear as such. In their place would be a series of rapids extending from Lake Erie to Lake Ontario. But other agen- cies now at work tend to modify existing conditions. The region northeast of the Great Lakes is slowly rising and tilt- ing the lake basins in the opposite direction. G. K. Gilbert estimates the change of elevation now going on to be 5.04 inches in 100 years for every 100 miles. If this tilting con- tinues the result must be that the waters of the lakes will rise on their southwestern edges and finally spill out at the lowest point. The place where this is likely to occur is at Chicago, where an artificial channel already connects Lake Michigan with the Illinois River.* The effect of the tilting will be to increase the volume of water now leaving by that outlet and to decrease the outflow by way of the Niagara. In 2500 years Mr. Gilbert thinks the discharge of Niagara will become intermittent, and in 3500 years cease altogether. As the volume of water de- creases erosion of the falls will become less rapid, and the rate of retrogression will be diminished. Under the condi- tions which we have assumed the waters of the river will cease to flow before the Canadian Fall has receded two miles from its present position. Before this time the lower drainage on that side will have diverted the water from the American Fall, leaving it dry. Another factor tending to affect the duration of the falls is the diversion of water for power purposes. At present the amount in use or contracted for amounts to less than five per cent, of the estimated volume of the river. But as the demand for power increases, as it must, the supply of water will be drawn upon until the amount passing over the falls will be greatly lessened from this cause alone. For this reason also the retrogression of the falls will be retarded. Doubtless the diminished flow will be apparent *Earth movements in the Lake region. Washington, 1898. 107 from the use of water long before it is perceptible from tilting of the land. The Niagara Falls Power. The water flowing over Niagara Falls represents in its ability to do work between 6,000,000 and 7,000,000 horse power. For more than a hundred years the idea of utilizing a part of this enormous energy has occupied the minds of inventors, and various schemes, more or less impracticable, have from time to time been projected. To Mr. Thomas Evershed, an engineer well known from his wide experience in the canal service of the State, belongs the credit of the plan which, with minor changes, has finally become a reality. As the result of a conference with Mr. Evershed, several citizens of Niagara Falls obtained a charter from the Legis- lature in 1886, giving them the right to utilize a part of the water of the river for manufacturing purposes. But the installation of a power plant on so gigantic a scale required caution. Not only were engineering difficulties to be met and overcome, but the best means of transmitting the power obtained had to be carefully considered. In June, 1890, an International Niagara Commission was established in London with power to offer $22,000 in prizes for the best plans for the purpose required. For turbines the designs of Faesch and Piccard of Geneva were selected, and three experimental wheels were built from their plans by the I. P. Morris Co. of Philadelphia. By the advice of the electrical engineer of the company, George Forbes of London, two- phase alternating current dynamos with revolving fields were adopted, and three trial dynamos were made and installed by the Westinghouse Co. of Pittsburg. Ground was broken for the tunnel October 4, 1890, and the work pushed ener- getically to its completion, which required about two years. The plan adopted for the generation of power is as follows : — About a mile above the falls a surface canal 250 feet wide, twelve feet deep and 1700 feet long extends inwardly 108 from the river. Parallel with this a wheelpit 424.7 feet long and 18.5 feet wide was dug to the depth of 178.5 feet. From the base of the wheelpit a tunnel 6890 feet long, eigh- teen feet ten inches wide, and twenty-one feet high runs under the town, opening nearly beneath the Upper Steel Arch Bridge. It is of horseshoe form, lined with brick throughout, and at the lower end plated on the bottom and sides for some dis- tance with steel. For the first 5000 feet from the portal the grade is .7 per cent; thence to the wheel pit .4 per cent. In the sides of the canal are openings guarded by gates. From these, steel penstocks seven and one-half feet in diam- eter descend to the water wheels below. These are inverted twin turbines, each of 5000 horse power, working under a head of 136 feet. The water is admitted between the turbines and is discharged outwardly at the rate of 430 cubic feet per second at full load into the tunnel which serves as a tail race. From the turbines a vertical shaft extends to the generator, 142 feet above, and is connected directly to the hollow revolv- ing field which also serves the purpose of a flywheel for the turbine. The weight of the revolving parts of the generator, shaft and wheel is 150,000 pounds. When in operation this, great mass is supported by the upward thrust of the column of water in the penstock against the disc of the upper turbine wheel, and so revolves without friction on the bearings. Each dynamo runs at a speed of 250 revolutions per minute, and generates 5000 electrical horse power. The electricity comes from the generator as a two-phase alternating cur- rent of 800 Amperes in each phase, at 2200 volts pressure. For transmission to Buffalo it is ' 'stepped up" by static trans- formers from a 2200 volt two-phase to a 22000 volt three- phase current. Heavy copper and aluminum wires supported on poles convey the current to Bufltalo, where it is '' stepped down" in a static transformer to an alternating current ranging from 480 to 2000 volts, according to the needs of the consumer. For trolly purposes it is transformed to a 480 volt current. This is used to run a rotary transformer 109 yielding a direct current of about 575 volts, suitable for propelling street cars. The most distant sub-station in Buffalo is 31.4 miles from the generators. The number of dynamos in the power house has been increased from three to ten, giving a total capacity of 50,000 horse power. Wheelpit and power house No. 2, essentially duplicates of the present wheelpit and power house, are now (1901) in pro- cess of construction on the east side of the inlet canal. When completed the new accession will contain eleven tur- bines, and the same number of dynamos, each of 5000 horse power. The Niagara Falls Power Co. expects then to develop a total of 100,000 electrical horse power, which, with the 7200 hydraulic horse power furnished to its tenant, the In- ternational Paper Co., will use the entire capacity of the present canal and tunnel. Electrical power is now supplied to customers as follows : The Acheson Graphite Co 1,000 h. p. Buffalo, Tonawanda and Lockport cities . 15,000 '^ Canadian users 550 ' ' Union Carbide Co 12,000 '' The Carborundum Co 2,000 '^ Disposal Works and Echota Lights ... 75 " Buffalo and Niagara Falls Electric Light Co. 800 " Niagara Falls Water Works Co 40 " Flax Fiber Co. . 425 ^' Electrical Lead Reduction Co 500 " Mathieson Alkali Works 2,000 ^' McNaughton & McGuire 200 ^' Niagara Electro Chemical Co 700 '' Oldbury Electro Chemical Co 1,400 " Power House (heating, lighting, etc. ) . . 175 " Pittsburg Reduction Co 4,500 '' Roberts Chemical Co 500 '' Street Railway, local 1,000 " Shredded Wheat Co 2,500 " (Natural Food Co.) Total 45,365 '' no This Company is also furnishing the Pan-American Expo- sition about 5000 electric horse power in addition to the above. The Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power and Manufacturing Co. The other great enterprise to utilize the power of Niagara is very much older than the tunnel previously described. It has for its main feature a surface canal 4400 feet long, ex- tending from Port Day to the edge of the cliff near the Up- per Arch Bridge, where it expands into a forebay. From the forebay water is delivered by penstocks to the wheels which run the machinery or dynamos. The original canal was built in 1853-8 by Woodhull & Bryant, and was thirty feet wide and six feet deep at first. No use was made of it until 1870, when Charles B. Gaskill built a grist mill on the edge of the bank near the forebay. In 1877 the canal and accessories were purchased by Messrs. Jacob Schoellkopf and A. Chesbrough, of Buffalo, who organized the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power & Manufacturing Co. The Company leased water privileges to various tenants and an important manufacturing colony grew up on the edge of the gorge. At first the motive power consisted of turbine wheels with vertical shafts set in pits or notches on the edge of the bank, and with a head of less than 100 feet. Later a shaft eighty feet deep was sunk connecting with a tunnel 200 feet long, to be used as a tail race. About 1500 horse power was generated by turbines placed in this pit and distributed by wire rope, or in other ways, to customers within a radius of 300 feet. In 1886 the Company secured title to a part of the sloping bank between their plant and the river so as to further use their water power. In 1892 The Cliff Paper Co. leased the water discharged from the Hydraulic Company's tunnel and built a pulp mill near the edge of the river at the foot of the bank. In the same year the Niagara Falls Hydraulic Power & Manufacturing Co. began the enlargement of their canal by widening and deepening it. The present depth of m^ HmIit^'** k. 112 fourteen feet, and width of 100 feet, give it a working capacity of at least 100, 000 horse power. To further utilize this, the company has built a power house at the foot of the bank near the pulp mill of the Cliff Paper Co. On the top of the bank is a forebay thirty by twenty-two feet, tak- ing water from the open canal. From this three penstocks, one of eight feet and the others of eleven feet diameter, built of flange steel, extend to the power house, whence a supply pipe thirteen feet in diameter extending horizontally delivers the water to the wheels. These penstocks are 360 feet long and deliver water under a head of 210 feet. The turbines, fourteen in number, are mounted on horizontal axes, each wheel rigidly connected to two direct-current dynamos, capable of developing 560 to 1000 kilowatts each. The wheels have a capacity of 2000 to 3000 horse power each, and were built by James Leffel & Co. of Springfield, Ohio, and by the I. P. Morris Co. of Philadelphia. The power already in use or contracted for is as follows : — Electric Poxver. Contracted Product. Now Using. for Pittsburg Reductiou Co., Aluminum, 7,500 h. p. 4,000 li. p. National Electrolytic Chlorate of Pot- Oo., ash, 1,000 Alloy Smelting Co , Ferro Chrome and other alloys, 200 Acker Process Co , Caustic Soda and Bleaching Pow- der, 3,200 Buffalo and Niagara Falls Electric Light- ing Co., 400 " 125 " 400 " Niagara Silver Co , Silverware, 5,600 " Niagara Gorge Rail- way Co , 600 " Lewiston & Queens- ton Frontier E. R'y, 200 " Other small consum- ers aggregating, 312 " 13,537 1,000 " 200 " ¥ r- ^ mm^^^Kli 114 Hydraulic Po^ver. Now Using. Cliff Paper Co 2,900 h. p. Niagara Wood Paper Go 250 " City Water Works 150 " Niagara Falls Milling Co 900 " Central Milling Co 1,000 " Pettibone Cataract Paper Co 1,600 " Cataract City Milling Co 400 " Total 7,200 " Po^ver in Use or Contracted For. Electric Power sold 13,537 h. p Hydraulic Power sold 7,200 " Mechanical Power from shaft sold . 360 ' ' Electric Power contracted for . . . 5,600 " Total 26,697 " References. The Queen Victoria, Niagara Falls Park. E. A. Meredith, Canadian Magazine, July, 1897. Eeports Comrs. State Reservation at Niagara, 1885-1897. Goat Island. Peter A. Porter, 1900. A Brief History of Old Fort Niagara, Peter A. Porter, Niagara Falls, 1896. Old Fort Niagara in History. Peter A. Porter. Champlain, not Cartier. Peter A. Porter, 1899. The Battle of Queenston Heights. J. Symons, Toronto, 1859. Narrative of the Anti-Masonic Excitement in Western New York in 1826-9. H. Brown, Batavia, 1829. The Upper Canadian Rebellion. J. Charles Dent, Toronto, 1885. Recent Earth Movement in the Great Lakes Region. G. K. Gilbert, Washington, 1898. Niagara Falls and Their History. G. K. Gilbert, Am. Book Co., New York, 1895. The Great Ice Dams of Lakes Maumee, Whittlesey and Warren. Frank B. Taylor, Fort Wayne, Ind., 1899, Origin of the Gorge of the Whirlpool Rapids at Niagara. Frank B. Taylor, Bull. Geol. Soc. of America, 1898. A New Guide to Niagara Falls and Vicinity. F. H. Sev- erance, Rand, McNally & Co., Chicago and New York, 1892. The Niagara Book. Underhill & Nichols, 1893. Cutler's Guide to Niagara Falls, fifth edition. The author also desires to acknowledge his indebtedness to Prof. A. F. Piper of the Buffalo Central High School, who has contributed from his intimate knowledge of Niagara much valuable material for this book. 115 Fishing. The principal fish caught with the hook in the Niagara Eiver are yellow perch, yellow pike (the pike perch), blue pike, white, rock, and black bass, and muskallonge. The best perch fishing begins about the middle of May and lasts till July. The fall run begins early in August and may con- tinue till the middle of October, although the earlier part of the period is considered the best. Blue pike bite vora- ciously for a few days early in May, and are likely to be caught afterwards in fishing for perch. Yellow pike are readily caught either with bait or by '* chugging, " from August 1 to September 15, although they may be taken in small numbers after May 1, especially with minnows. Black bass may be taken between June 16 and Dec. 31. White bass may be taken in May on the American side of the river, but are protected on the Canadian side until later. Muskallonge are sparingly caught in Buffalo harbor and around Grand Island about June 1, and in the latter region in August and September. Sturgeon are speared in the river below the Whirlpool in May. Eels are caught in great numbers below the Falls, where they sometimes crawl out among the wet stones in their endeavor to pass up the river. The best places for fishing in the lower river are at Lewis- ton or Queenston and at Youngstown. At Lewiston boats and bait can be obtained of the Browns, who have boat- houses above and below the steamboat landing. Boat and bait $1.00 per day, guide to row boat, $1.50 to $2.00 extra. Bargain with guide advised. At Queenston, opposite, boats and guide may be obtained at the steamboat wharf. At Youngstown bait and boats may be had by inquiry at the hotels mentioned (page 75). Above the Falls perch and rock bass fishing may be had 116 117 at Schlosser's dock and at LaSalle. Boats may be had at the latter place near the trolley and railroad stations. The fish do not run as large here as at Lewiston, but the fisher- man is reasonably sure of a fair catch in the proper season. At Buffalo there is much fishing at the Ferry Street dock, but the fish are small and few. Yellow pike and blue pike are caught during August in the early evening on the break- water above Ferry Street. Obtain bait and tackle at Ferry dock or at "Dutch Bill's," foot of Porter Avenue. Chugging rigs and guides for deep river fishing also at the latter place, or at the boat-house at the pier. On the Cana- dian side at Fort Erie boats and tackle may be hired at the boat-house near the stone church in the lower part of the town. Duck Shooting. Duck hunting is good along the river in many places. Favorite spots for this sport are the upper reach of the Niagara where it leaves Lake Erie, in the vicinity of Grand Island, and between Grand Island and the head of the rapids. In the Autumn of 1900 ducks were quite numerous between the Upper Arch Bridge and the Falls. During the winter they frequent the open water above the rapids, where they are shot in large numbers. Index. PAGE Abbott, Francis 32 Acetylene gas 78 Air phenomena, Erosion.. 28, 98 " " Geysers 40 " " Waterfall breeze 44 Aluminum 79 Arthrophycus Harlani 70, 71 Baggage transfer 12 Banks 13 Bazaars 13 Beaches, ancient 72, 102 Bicycles, repairs, customs 15 Biddle Stairs 28 Black Rock 90 Blockhouse 75 Blondln 93 Bloody Run 69, 88 Botany 26, 58 Bowman's Creek 53, 64, 104 Brachiopods 70, 71 Bridges, fares, 15 Bridge, lower Steel Arch. 15, 48, 65, 67 ' ' upper Steel Arch..l5, 35, 65, 67 Cantilever 15, 48, 65, 67 " International 77, 83 New Suspension 16, 62, 63 Bridge jumpers 93 Brock, General Isaac 89 Brock's Monument 59, 60, 89 Brown, General 90, 91 Buckhorn Island 84, 87 Buffalo 76, 90 Burnt Ship Bay 84, 87 Burning Spring 45 Caroline, burning of the 93 Carriages 11, 12, 34 Caryocrinus ornatus 70 Castle, old French 75 Cave of the Winds 28 Cayuga Creek 85 Cedar Island 44 Champlain 85 Chippewa, creek and village.... 46, 84 battle of 46,90 PAGE. Corals 70 Crinoid heads.... 70, 71 Customs ; 15 De Nonville '. 86 Depots, Buffalo 81 " Niagara Falls 9 De Yeaux College 53, 67 Devil's Hole 64, 67, 68 " Hole Glen 60 " " Massacre 88 " Rapids 64 " Pulpit 64, 68, 69 Drinking Water 23, 24, 30, 32, 57 Drummond, General 92 Drummondsville . 49 Dufferin Islands 44 Dynamos 108, 110, 112 Earth movements 106 Electric railways 12, 46, 67 Gorge road 13, 47, 53 Lewiston and Youngstown Frontier Railway 74 Niagara Falls Park and River Railway 77, 84 Niagara Falls, Wesley Park and Clifton Tramway 47 International Traction Co 76 Electro-chemical industries. 78, 79, 80 Elevators, inclined.l4, 22, 23, 34, 50, 67 " hydraulic 44 Escarpment, Lewiston 102, 104 Explorers, early 85, 86 Express 13 Falls, American 23, 27, 28, 36, 95, 98, 99, 106 " Luna 23, 28, 29 •• Horseshoe 34, 39, 40, 41, 95, 98, 99, 105 " future of 105 " retrogression of 99 •' Yiew station 49 Ferries 73, 83 Fish's Creek 63 Fishing 116 PAGE. 15 7. 83 90 64 riorists Fort de Portage " Erie " battle of " " siege of " Gray " George 76, 89 " Little Niagara 80, 87, 88 " Massassauga 76 " Niagara 75, 86, 87, 88, 89, 92 " Nonville 86 " Porter 77, 81 " Schlosser 88, 90 Fossils 70, 71 Foster's Flats 57, 64, 68 Geology 26, 47, 50, 51, 55, 58, 69, 72 Geological history 101, 115 Ghent, treaty of 92 Giant Rock , 64 Glacial epoch, resiilts of ...55, 101, 104 Goat Island.... 23, 24, 26 Gorge, Niagara, how formed... 98 history of 101 " " age 105 Grand Island 83, 87, 92 Gravel pits 26, 32, 47,55, 72 Green Island 24, 32, 34 Griffon, The 78, 85, 86 Hennepin, Father 40, 85, 86 Hennepin's View 19, 23 Hotels 10, 11, 63, 73, 75,76 Hunting 117 Hydraulic canal 81, 110 Inspiration Point 38 Itineraries : A. Prospect Park 23 B. Around Goat Island........ 24 C. To Cave of the Winds 28 D. To Horseshoe Fall, Cana- dian side 34 E. To Duff erin Islands 44 F. To the Burning Spring... 45 G. Duff erin Is. to Chippewa 46 H. Upper to Lower Arch Bridge, Canadian side.. 47 I. To Lundy's Lane and Loretto Convent 47 J. To Whirlpool 50 K. St. David's Gorge 55 L. Whirlpool to Niagara Glen 57 M. To Lewiston or Queens- ton 60 PAGE. N. Lewiston to Niagara Falls by Gorge Route.. 63 O. To Suspension Bridge and Devil's Hole 67 P. Devil's Hole to Lewiston, geological 69 Q. Lewiston to Youngstown, Toronto, etc 73 Z. To Port Day 34 Great Belt Line trip 77 Buffalo to Niagara Falls by electric cars, steam cars and steamers 76, 83 Jewelers 14 Jewish colonization 78, 92 Lake Iroquois 102, 103 Lake Warren 103 La Motte 85 La Salle, explorer 85 La Salle, village 117 Lewiston 63, 73, 90, 100, 116 Little Brother Island 32 Loretto Convent 32, 49 Luna Island 23 Luna Fall 28, 28, 29 Lundy's Lane 49 Lundy's Lane, battle of 91 Maid of theMist 23, 24 Manchester 90 Miller and Brundage 9, 10, 12, 67 Model City 78 Monastery 49 Morgan incident 92 Museums 14 Navy Island 87, 93, 84 Newark, burning of 90 Newspapers 13, 14 Niagara Falls, New York 9,10,11,12,13 " Ontario...9, 11, 12, 16, 17 " north 9, 10 " south 9, 49 " central 9,10,49 Niagara-on-the-Lake 76 " Glen 57 " Gorge 98, 101, 105 " University 60, 69 " River, how formed 103 North Tonawanda 78 Observation Towers 22, 49 Ongiara Park 64 Opticians 14 Park, Canadian side 16, 22 " Prospect 16, 18. 20, 21, 22, 24, etc. PAGE. Park Superintendent 22, 38 Penstocks 108, 110, 111, 112 Periodicals 14 Photographers 15 Port Day 34 Portage Road 86 Post-office 13 Pot holes 57, 98 Power, electric, Canadian side 44 " " American side 78, SO, 82, 107, 114 Power, electric, lists of con- sumers 109, 114 Power, electric, tunnel 35, 107, 108 Power, hydrauHc 36, 110, 111, 118 " " lists of con- sumers 109, 114 Power, hydraulic, canal 81, 110 Queenston 60, 61, 62, 116 Queenston Heights, battle of ...88, 89 Railroads : Canadian Southern 10 Erie 9, 83 Grand Trunk 70 Lehigh 83 Michigan Central 10, 49, 76 New York Central 9, 81, 82 Wabash 9 Rapids, American 22, 24, 25 Buttery 67 Canadian 32, 33 Devil's Hole 64 " Upper Devil's Hole 64 Whirlpool 50, 52, 65, 66, 67 References 115 Reservation carriages 12 PAGE. Restaurants 11, 68, 84 Retrogression of the Falls 99 Rope walking 93 St. Catharines, Ont 13 St. David's Channel 55, 64, 104 Schlosser's Dock 78, 117 Scott, General 89, 90, 91 Shells 26, 32, 53, 101 Shelters 22, 24, m Slater's Point 46, 83, 84 Stationers 14 Steamers : International Navigation Co 10, 46, 83 Niagara Navigation Co 10, 74 Stedman,John 24, 88 Stores 14 Strata, thickness of 100 Stratigraphy 51, 58, 71; 95, 97 Strawberry Island 83 Street's Creek 90 Table Rock 14, 40 Telegraph 13 Terraces 100 Terrapin Rock 30, 31 Terrapin Tower 30 Theatre 13 Three Sister Islands 32 Toilet rooms 20, 24 Toll gate 44 Tonawanda 77 Toronto 13, 74 Trips 18, 22 Whirlpool 53, 54, 64, 67, 68 Wintergreen Flats 56, 57 Youngstown 75, 90, 116 a«#t JM0X