\ Class Book. T nil. y-i7 CoKyriglitN" COPYRIGHT DEPOSrr. How To Handle Hats By G. H. WOODROW THE ONLY WORK PUBLISHED ON THIS SUBJECT An up-lo-date book giving information regarding the HANDLING RENOVATING SELLING TALKI NG CLEANING SHAPING IRONING and BLOCKING HATS Publiihed by G. H. WOODROW & COMPANY 32 BROADWAY :: :: NEW YORK. N. Y. LIBRARY of OCNGRESS Two OoDies rtecavMi APR 6 iy05 Guis It A\C Not COPY S/ _ v' Copytlzhi 1905 W. H. WOOD ^ y n r f cT) This book is written in such language, that the man who knows little or nothing of the hat business can thoroughly understand the terms used and instructions given; and for this reason I ask the indulgence of the experienced hatman when he reads the explanations which to his experienced knowledge may seem superfluous. The claims for this book are: First — It gives the most complete and compre- hensive description of modern hat making that has ever been issued in book form; and Second — It gives more valuable points about hats; how to get the best results; how to make an old hat look like new, etc.. etc.. than has ever been published before. Third — Ancient History has all been left nut. It gives what the man of to-day desires to know, viz., What is doing to-day, and what to do to-morrow. Times and conditions change in this progressive century, and all methods heretofore described in various publications regarding the manufacture and making over of hats are as obsolete to-day as a wooden warship. In this little treatise I have not thought it best to use a large flow of words to describe the various operations — and by that means extend it to large proportions — but have endeavored to so condense the instruction and information given to tit the requirements of a time-saving age; at the same time not sacrificing clearness and accuracy to that of brevity. Should you desire any point explained or wish further information write the author. 3 How to Handle Hats. HOW SILK HATS ARE MADE. Muslin is cut up into lenj^ths of about seven feet and immersed in "water stiffening," com- pose. 1 of shellac, and stretched on frames to dry. The muslin used on the brim is heavier than that used on the crown, and is framed four ply ; one piece being put on the frame at a time, then the whole is patted and rubbed until they all stick to- gether. Medium and one ply side crown pieces are cut bias, brim and tip are cut in squares. The piece for the side crown is cut bias to fit the block, and the edges are stuck together with a hot iron, and the block inserted ; as the block is larger at the tip. than in the band where the 5 MEDIUM IJELL. FIVE-EIGHTHS. IVORSAY CURL, MEDIUM SET. b.at fits, it is made in five pieces and used as fol- lows : First, the two ends are in- serted, then the sides, and the cen- ter piece last ; the center piece is lar- ger at the bottom than at the top, the other pieces HAT IRON ON SHELL. are laro-er at the top than at the bottom. There is a maro-in at the top of the side crown piece wdiich is ironed over on the tip ; the first ply of the top is now put on — which is a piece similar to that of the side — and ironed to the side piece ; a heavier piece is then laid on and ironed to the first; a square piece of the desired size is then cut from the material with which to make a brim, the center of which is cut out. The inner edge is softened and the piece is pulled over the crown down to the brimboard ; the crown and the brim are now joined together by ironing, being still further strengthened by ironing a piece of ribbon (stiffened muslin) over the seam, after which the brim is ironed flat ; small pieces of stiffened muslin are ironed on to the front and rear of the upper brim to strength- 6 en it, then the brim is rounded to the required width. The side crown is varnished and a piece of un- stiffened, unbiased musHn is ironed to the first ply; the whole crown is now varnished and two pieces of plain muslin are laid together on the top and ironed fast, after wdiich the whole body is varnished and dried, receiving two additional coats of varnish. The plush is cut into three pieces biased for the side crown and upper brim, and oval for the tip ; fhe merino for the under brim is cut square ; the side crown and the tip are sewn together, leav- ing an opening at the side crown ; this is termed the cover. The body, cover, upper and under brim are now ready ; the finisher takes it and irons on the underbrim, then trims off the sur- plus merino at the edges. The plush is fastened on the upper brim by wetting it with a sponge, and brushing and iron- ing it ; the cover is drawn over the body, and the place of the seam marked. It is then laid on the bench and the nap brushed back from one side to prevent it being cut, as it has to be used later in the operations to hide the seam. The plush is cut with a long pair of shears, at the marked place, and the cover is re-drawn over the body ; the tip and the right side of the seam stuck with the hot iron ; the left side has a long nap covering the edge, and when it is skillfully put together, it completely hides the seam ; it is stuck by applying the nose of the iron to the edge of the seam. The plush is now moistened with a wet sponge and the nap brushed straight and ironed dry, af- ter whicli it is again moistened with the sponge, brushed out and allowed to dry ; then it is ironed and put in a revolving machine, which is so ad- justed as to put the hat in contact with a velure ; this gives it a finish and brings the tip to a good center. As previously explained, for the convenience of handling, the block is made in five pieces ; the expansion and contraction of the points neces- sarily leave their impressions on the hat, which to remove is taken from the block, and on the poutance and half block is ironed until it is even and the marks disappear. A sheet of tissue paper — called a cap — is now fastened around it, and the "curler" takes and curls the brim by hand with shackle and iron ; then places it on a hot baker, until the brim is soft, then sets it on the setting board. The trimming of silk hats is somewhat similar to the operation on the derbys. If the hats are to be satin lined, or "Stuck lin- ing," the satin is put on the block at the first 8 operation of making the body ; otherwise the silk inserted linings are made by the trimmer and put in. TO IRON SILK HATS. To iron or block a silk hat you should have a poutance and half block (see cut from Mast & Co.), and tip block, half round iron toliker, vel- vet lure and brush. Take the hat to be ironed in your left hand and with a brim brush tap the edge of the curl and brush upper brim, always drawing one way, tapping the outside and brushing the inside until }'ou have all the dust out ; also tap and brush the sides and top ; having screw^ed the poutance arm to counter or bench, and half block put on, turn out the sw^eat leather of the hat, and put it on the block ; brush it well with a stiff brush, and then the lure, drawing towards you all the time. Stand a little to the right of the poutance, hold the brim of the hat in your left hand, and begin iron- ing at the square where the tip and crow^n join, covering a space of about four inches long and two inches wide, drawling towards you ; it takes several strokes of the iron to do this ; while the place you have been ironing is still hot, take the half round iron toliker and draw tow^ards you firmly several times, then repeatedly stroke it over in the same wav with the lure. 9 Go all around the hat in this manner and then commence below and go aroimd again until you reach the band ; then take the hat from the half m •OUTANCE WITH HALF BLOCK. BRIM IRON. block, turn in the sweat leather, put the hat on the tip block, brush over with the stiff brush, then the soft brush to smooth it : hold the hat 10 with the left hand so that the place where you want to iron will fit the block, then moving the iron with a circular movement, iron at first about one-fourth of the tip at one time, then duck-bill toliker to set it, then take the lure, and liold it on the top, turning the hat with your left hand on the brim to the right, the way of the nap. STIFF BRUSH. Straighten the nap on the upper brim, and with a hot brim iron apply it to the upper brim, drawing towards you, holding the hat by the brim in }'our left hand ; finish by ironing the square of the hat while holding it in your hand ; then go over the sides with the lure, drawing gently towards you. In case you have marked the binding or band, touching either or both with the iron, take a wet sponge and touch it on the iron, then touch the band or binding, and the mark will disappear. In the case of the hat being mashed it will have to be ironed several times over, on the mashed part, until it is smooth. To renovate greasv silk hats put about two 11 tablespoonfuls of liquid ammonia in a tumbler of hot water, mop the greasy places with the so- lution with a sponge, until the spots disappear ; then go over the hat with plenty of clean, warm water ; then with a stiff brush, brush the nap out straio;ht and drv, then iron. RUFFLED SILK HAT. In case a silk hat is nmch ruffled and the nap matted down by being carried in a hat box or otherwise, first brush out the dust, then go over it with a wet sponge, drawing it towards you the r.KlM BRUSH. way of the nap ; then with a brush straighten the nap, after which dry it on the cleaning machine, or in a warm place ; when dry, brush nap out and iron. SILK HAT POLISH. Dissolve one ounce of Parafine wax in four ounces of benzine. To use this, have a small hat lure like those thev give awav with silk hats, "^12 moisten the lure well with the solution and go all over the hat. crown and brim, drawing the lure in the same direction as the nap. This plan will sometimes act as a substitute for ironing- where the hat is not broken ; it is quickly done. This process is good for new hats in stock when the nap has become wavy. Be careful not to use too much of the fluid. Put it on the hat cleaning machine and polish with a cloth, as with derbys. TO PUT OX MOURNING BANDS. To put on the mourning bands which are fast- ened by a clasp is simple ; vou need only follow the directions on the box. The broadcloth mourning band which is seamed, requires a little more care : take the num- ber, one, two or three, as indicated on the box, then take the band in both hands and put it over the tip and work it down to the band, drawing it with a circular movement around the crown and going graduall}' downwards until you reach the brim, having the seam to the left side, on same side the bow is. Then smooth the hat over with the lure. i;3 REMOVING GREASE SPOTS. For removing little spots of stiffening on stiff hats have a bottle of alcohol with a small piece of a sponge at the end of the cork ; touch the place with alcohol, rub it with your finger nail or the end of a file, then wash the place with the cork wet with alcohol. For greasy bindings, rub them with a woolen rag wet with benzine. THE OPERA HAT. The opera hat in many respects is like a silk one, as the brim and tip are made of similar ma- terials, viz., muslin stiffened with shellac. It has a frame consisting of two steel rings, four springs, and four upright ribs hinged in the center; this is the arrangen^ent tliat makes it possible to open and close it. It is generally covered and lined with black corded silk. It requires an expert to fix one of these hats when anything is broken, but if the brim gets out of shape, which is frequently the case, it can be properly adjusted by heating it until soft and working it with the fingers, or on a setting board, which is simply a thick board formed to fit the underside of a derby, silk, or opera hat; use the foot tolicker like conforming. 14 If the silk is badly creased b}' being closed for a considerable time, open, and dampen it all over with a wet sponge, and let it remain open until dry, when all the creases will be gone. If the tip gets out of shape, put it on the tip block and iron it, having a cloth between the iron and the hat. HOW FUR HATS ARE :MADE. , Fur felt hats are made from the furs of vari- ous animals, the principal ones of which are the Beaver, Nutria or Coypou, Muskrat, Otter, Hare and Rabbit. Beaver is the most valuable fur, but very few hats are made from it entirely. Next in value is the Nutria, afterwards the Otter, Muskrat, Hare and Rabbit respectively. The quality of the fur varies according to the location on the body of the animal ; on such wa- ter animals as the Beaver, Nutria, Muskrat and Otter, the belly contains the finest fur; while from the backs of such land animals as the hare and rabbit the best fur is obtained. The skins of these animals are stretched and dried, and the dirt thoroughly brushed out of them. Some of these skins are "carroted," that is to say, they are laid on a table fur uppermost, and 15 a nitrate of mercury solution, consisting of quick- silver, nitric acid and water, is applied with a stiff brush to the fur. The skins are then laid in pairs fur sides to- gether, and placed in a drying room until the de- sired effect is produced on the fur. The object of "carroting" is to hasten the pro- cess of shrinkage or felting ; some grades of fur cannot be made into a hat without first being "carroted." After the skins have been "carroted," they are brushed to make the hair lie all in one direction, after which they are put through a machine, wdiich is so adjusted that it pulls out all the long- coarse hairs, leaving the finer hair attached to the skin. In the next process the skins are placed in the fur cutting machine, which shaves the skin from the hair, leaving the fur all intact, and in that condition is carried onto a revolving apron, the skin in the meantime having fallen below in small shreds. Very few, however, of the hat manufacturers cut the skins, as they prefer to purchase the fur from the hatters' furriers. The fur is of various grades and packed in five pound bags and marked accordingly. Thus we have the W. C. Beaver (white carrot), Tri- ple Ring Prime Back ( B. H. B.), Best Hare IG Backs (B. C B.), Best Coney Backs (C. B.), Coney Backs, and other grades. Experience has demonstrated that the best re- sults are obtained by mixing various grades ; if all carroted fur (stock) were used, a soft open felt would be the result, therefore raw stock (un- carroted) is mixed with carroted stock, in vari- ous proportions and grades, to make the desired quality of felt. To make felt that is generally used in hats that retail at five dollars pnr ifinnnw and upwards, Beaver and Nutria are mixed with Hare in right proportions ; while for the cheaper grades of hats a mixture of Hare, Coney Backs and Filling (ground roundings and small pieces) are used. On account of the high price of Nutria, it can- not be mixed with Hare Backs or other grades to make up into hats that sell to the retailer at fifteen dollars per dozen, although only a short time ago I saw a retail salesman offer a customer a soft hat (Nutria color) for $2.25, declaring it was clear belly Nutria. After the fur is cut, as previously explained, it is blown by means of a revolving brush into a long wooden box divided into six or more com- partments : this box has revolving aprons ingen- iously arranged, so that the fur is automatically and correctly graded ; as the fur travels along with this apron, the pieces clotted with blood 17 (which are called dags) and small pieces of skin fall by gravity into the first compartment ; the long thick hairs are carried and drop into the next compartment, and so on, until the last one is reached. By this operation all of the fur h-:^s been graded according to quality, the last being the best and finest grade. In order for the manufacturer to get at the cost of each lot of hats he is making, he figures up the price of each mixing. Suppose he takes five pounds of this, ten pounds of the other, and fifteen pounds of another kind and mixes them altogether, thus making a thirty pound "mix- ing." He figures out the cost of each grade and adds them together, divides the number of pounds into the total cost, and the result is a net cost per pound ; by this means the manufact- urer can tell approximately what each hat will cost him, and vv'ill therefore put in as good a stock as possible for the price at which the hats are to be sold. The mixing is done by a process of blowing, so that each fibre of each grade is thoroughly blown into and twined and intertwined, with the fibres of all the grades, thus making an abso- lutely uniform quality. The fur is now ready to be made up into felt, and supposing it is desired to make a four ounce hat, the plan would be as follows : the operator 18 has a box containing' twelve compartments, and into each compartment he puts four ounces of the fur, thus having a correctly divided material for one dozen hats, which is now ready for the "Former." The "Fur Former" is a machine into which the fur is put, and by a mechanical arrangement forms it into the shape of a cone preparatory to being made into felt ; this is done as follows : at the front of the machine is a revolving feed apron, which connects with a four sided box, at the end of which is a cylinder-shaped chamber with doors, inside of which there is a revolving table, which carries a perforated copper cone, on which the body is formed : to this is connected an exhaust fan or blower to draw the fur onto the cone. A feeder stands at the revolving a])ron with a box containing one dozen hats, and an(^ther oper- ator stands at the opposite end and places the cone on the revolving table and closes the door of the cylinder chamber. The feeder places on the revolving apron the stock for one hat, which is carried through the four-sided box into the cylinder chamber, w^here, by the action of the suction fan, the fur is drawn all around the per- forated copper cone and is held there in close contact by the forced suction ; the operaor then opens the doors and throws a wet cloth on the 19 now fur covered cone and immediately wraps a second cloth around it, and puts a funnel-shaped tin cover over it, then dips the cone, fur, etc., into hot water, where they remain for about one minute ; while this is being done a second opera- tor places another cone on the revolving table, and the same process is repeated. When the operator takes the cone, fur, etc., out of the water, he places it on a bench, removes the tin cover and cloths, inverts the cone, loosens the edges of the fur, and the newly formed hat falls on the bench like a wet bag. Another operator, called the Hardener, now takes it in hand and squeezes out the water, opens it out flat, and taking several of them together, rolls and unrolls them many times in woolen cloths to harden or "fix" them ; in case there are any thin ])laces he covers them with additional fur ; they are now ready for the sizer. If they are intended to be sized by hand (as all finer grades generally are) the sizer takes three hats at a time to the sizing kettle, which consists of a trough, around which are several benches sloping towards it ; the kettle is filled with hot water acidulated. The sizer takes the three hats and spreads them out flat on a cloth, one on top of each other ; he then sprinkles hot water over them, and makes them into a roll covered with the cloth ; he rolls them and un- 20 folds them many times or until they have shrunk to about one-half their original size. FIRST SHAPE. THE FORMED BODY. This process has to be very carefully done, because if in the operation the edges (sides) get stuck, there will be a streak in the finished hat, 21 running from tip to brim, and known to the trade as a "lightning rod." When they have been manipulated until they are down to within two inches of the size re- quired, they are then dried, and shaved, either by hand or machine (machine has revolving knives, like a lawn mower), and again rolled up, this time, however, singly, and without any cloth. This is called second sizing, and leather or wood pads, called gloves, are used, as they make firmer felt. It is necessary for the body to be reduced to a certain measurement or size, and when this is accomplished the process is complete. THE SIZED BODY. The process of sizing by machinery is some- what different. The "forms" are rolled in cloth and taken by two men, who operate a machine called a "'starting machine," which contains rap- idly revolving rollers, and which is placed over a trough filled with hot water, and are folded and put through the rollers many times, until they are reduced a few inches each way ; after which thev are passed on to the sizers, who work on similar but smaller machines, where they are reduced or shrunk to the required size ; this is the plan adopted usually for the medium and low grade hats. Thus far the process is similar for both soft and stiff hats ; as the soft hats are heavier, how- ever, it is necessary that they have in them more "stock." The hat is now dried and is ready for stiffen- ing — and at this point the difference between the finishing of the soft and stiff hat begins. To-day the derby hats are stiffened with wine, or alcohol stiffening, wdiich is composed chiefly of shellac dissolved in alcohol. There are two stiffening machines, one for the brims and one for the crowns, each supplied with a revolving brush to put on the solution ; the brim is stift"ened on both sides, but the crown is only stiffened on what will be the inside when finished. The body is now dried, and in order to recover part of the alcohol used in the stiffening, the hat is put into an oven that has connections with 23 a condenser, and there subjected to steam heat. When dry the hat is thoroughly brushed, after- wards dipped in hot water containing a small amount of soda, then put in a vat of cold water containing a little acid. But up to this point the "body" is in the shape of a small cone, or, more properly speaking, fun- nel shaped. The next process is the "tip" (crown) stretch- ing. This is done by means of a machine having prongs, in shape something like the bended fin- gers of your right hand interlocking those of the left hand. As the machine is revolved by the operator the motion stretches or widens the top or crown, which has previously been dipped in hot water. The brim stretcher, in the next operation, works in a similar way, and turns out the brim, so that the "body" has now the rough appearance of a hat. Dyeing follows the above ; to-dav aniline col- ors are principally used, as vegetable dyes, with the exception of logwood, are almost out of date. This dyeing is done by means of a large wood- en vat having a steam coil in the bottom, to heat the prepared liquid. This process takes from two to six hours' duration, according to color desired, and from twelve to thirtv-six dozen are treated at one time. 2-i After being dyed they are well washed, after which they are ready to be blocked. They are now taken to a "blocking" machine, and this is the first process that gives anything like a hat shape to the embryo hat. This machine is a very ingenious contrivance ; it has a large iron frame, in the center of which is a headpiece, composed of brass prongs, which expand and contract; it also contains "fingers" placed around the edge. The "blocker" adjusts his machine to the de- sired size, and after immersing the hats in hot water, takes out one at a time, and puts it on the machine ; he presses a lever, and the "fingers" grasp the edge of the brim and pulls it in a cir- cle ; by means of moving another lever the band, crown and brim of the hat are formed in one operation ; while in this position cold water is poured over the hat, after which the levers are released, the hat taken out, and thrown into cold water, to "set" ; it is then put in the hydro-ex- tractor, after which it is taken to the drying room. When it is taken out of the drying room, it is ''squared up" (a stiffening solution applied to the inside of the crown with a brush), dried and steam blocked, that is to say, it is put on a wood block, the exact shape of which it is intended the hat to be when finished, and steam applied to 2d shape it and flatten the brim. Afterwards it is singed by means of a gas flame, brushed with a revolving brush, and then put into an iron steam heated oven to soften, preparatory for the hy- draulic press. This press is strongly built of iron, with pump connections, and has a lever- locking appliance. The hat thus softened by heat is put into the mold, and a tin brim plate adjusted to the brim, then the press is closed and locked and the water turned on and kept under a pressure of about 500 pounds for about two minutes, after which it is taken out, its surface is then free from wrinkles, and is ready for "finishing." This "finishing" process is sometimes done in two operations, as follows : the brim is sandpa- pered first on a "brimmer," and then "lured," after which the crown is finished on a lathe, which consists of an upright revolving spindle with an iron plate containing two upright pins for the block to fit on. The Finisher puts the hat on the block, and starts the lathe, holding a piece of sandpaper in each hand on the hat until it is smooth. He then "lures" it with a "lure" and grease, hold- ing the "lure" on a hot iron or heater, then press- ing it gently on the hat while it is revolving. He also uses the sandpaper and "lure" after the lathe has stopped. 26 The next process after finishing and exami- nation by the Foreman, is to round the brim to the desired width, which is done as follows : the hat is put on a machine which fits firmly on the inside near the brim ; a lever with a knife and gauge is passed around the brim and the uneven and superfluous width cut ofif. Some hats ( flex- ibles) are now "edge stififened," that is, a solu- tion of stiffening is put on the edge of the brim to strengthen it. The hats are now ready for the "curler." He puts it in a revolving plate, which heats the edge of the brim ready for the "edging up n:achine," wdiich turns over the Qdge and irons it down the same as is done by the shackle and shell, by hand ; they are then matriced, being first put on a hot baker to soften the brim.. The matrice ( which is an iron formed in two parts, to the exact shape the brim is intended to be) is put into a hydraulic matricing press, made especially for the brims, on which the hat is put, afterwards the press is closed and pressure ap- plied. The "curler" then takes the matrice contain- ing the hat from the press and removes it by tak- ing one-half off at a time ; this has to be done before it is quite cold, otherwise the shape will be spoiled. The next operator takes it, and with the curl 27 planes and sandpaper makes the edges of the curl smooth and of the required width. The hats are now ready to be trimmed ; this consists of sewing- on the band and binding and putting in the sweat leather. Bindings on stiff hats to-day are mostly what are called ''reversed," that is, they are put on the upper brim first by machine or hand, selvage edge outward, turned over and stitched by hand ; they are then brushed with a revolving soft brush, ''lured," and any small defects remedied, after which they are wrapped in tissue paper and packed in boxes. Soft hats are stiffened with a water solution of shellac (which is in lieu of the alcohol solu- tion used on stiff hats). They are dipped in this solution brim downwards as far as the intended width of the brim, then passed through iron roll- ers, taken out and dved like stiff" hats. SOFT HATS. There is a difference in the treatment of soft and stiff hats after they are dyed. The better grades of soft hats are blocked by hand in hot water by pulling them over a wood block, after which a cord is put around the band, and the brim pulled flat ; then thev are dried, and 28 taken to the pouncing- room, where they are passed through a machine containing small roll- ers covered with fine sandpaper, which takes off the coarse hairs, making them short and close, like cloth ; this operation is confined to the brim. The crown is "pounced" on a round block re- volving on a lathe, and "squared" up, that is to say, a little stiffening of gum is applied to one side of the crown, that'fSmt which is to be the inside when the hat is finished. They are then taken to the drying room, after which they are ready for finishing. The finisher takes the hat and pulls it over the proper size block, and ties a cord around the bot- tom to hold it to its place, and it is then ironed either by hand or machine. The operation of the ironing machine is as follows : the operator places the block on the ma- chine, which revolves in a horizontal position, after which he moistens the hat with a wet brush, and then applies the hot iron — which is heated by gas and operated by a lever and weights — which travels automatically over the hat. The hat is then removed from the machine and "pounced" either by hand or lathe, and "lured." The brim is pressed out with a hot shell and "pounced" — using fine sandpaper for the pur- pose. This is done by hand or machine, then "lured," when it is readv to be "curled." 29 "Curling" is turning- the tdgt over ; this is also done by hand or machine ; the machine for the purpose has a round-edged wheel and guide, a LL'KI.ING SHACKLE. part of the machine being heated. The operator wets the edge of the brim and passes it through the machine as though he was binding it. When "curling" is performed by hand it is usually done with a hot shackle, similar to ironing. OI.TMHIA STS'LE, liOSS RAW EDGE. Soft hats, instead of being "curled." are some- times steamed over a flange or wood niould, 30 which is made the exact shape the brim is intend- ed to be. The hats with high curled brims, also those turned up ver}- much benmd and down in front, and crushers, are shaped in this manner ; this process is called steam flanging. Hats that are "curled" have to be "i'langed," that is, put on a wood form, which has the shape of the brim desired. They are put on this form, brim uppermost, when it (the brim) is moulded into shape, by means of a hot bag of sand, which is hung by a rope and pulley and which is made to rise and fall upon the brim ; this operation gives it a close finish. Generally, soft hats are "flanged" after being trimmed ; then they are taken to the packer, who remedies any little defects, and softens or mel- lows up the hat if it is too stifif, b}- squeezing it and shaking the brim. Nearlv all fine grades are mellowed in this manner. HAT CURLS. The "curl" is the edge of the brim turned up or over ; a flat, straight brim has no "curl" ; a soft hat with the edge of the brim rolled over is called a "boss raw-edge curl" if unbound ; if the brim is not set up the w^ord "boss" defines the "curl." 31 A stiff hat curl rounded at the edge is called a ''roll curl," while a curl which turns at a straight angle is called a ''D'Orsay curl," and measures half an inch, three-quarters, etc. ; and thus you say "half-inch D'Orsay," or "three- quarter roll," as the case may be. Measure the "curl" with the slide rule at the side, the width of the turn is the size of the curl. LIGHT-COLORED SOFT HATS. Soft hats in light colors having soiled or blem- ished places on them can be made to look fresh by touching over the places with a piece of num- ber seven nought sandpaper, until the soiled place is removed, as follows : First rub a little chalk over the soiled spot and then take a piece of the sandpaper about three by four inches in size and use it on the brim, and brush and tap with brush handle if any chalk re- mains ; repeat the operation if necessary. If the soiled place is on the crown, place the hat on a block smaller than itself ; or in lieu of a block hold a folded piece of tissue paper to the place on the inside, then use chalk and sandpaper as above mentioned. Sandpapering light-colored hats gives a new lustre to them. 32 SOFT HATS HAVING CREASE MARKS. In the case of a soft hat having a deep mark or crease, caused by pacing or otherwise, insert the stretch block, and where it is most dented pack with tissue paper, until it looks smooth ; then wet the place over with a clean, wet sponge, drawing the way of the nap, then let it dry and it will be all right. Do not use the same sponge for light hats that has been used for black ones. If the marks on the hats from being packed are only slight, they may be removed by wetting your thumb and rubbing on the line. GREASE SPOTS. If the soiled place is grease, get a little benzine in a tin, or cup, and with a piece of cloth rub it on the grease spot. If the grease is on the brim you must moisten it all over with the cloth dip- ped in the benzine, otherwise it will stain the hat ; then let dry in a warm place. The same process applies to crown, also to worn hats. In using the benzine Jare must be taken to keep it away from a flame of any kind. 33 PUTTING A NEW LUSTRE ON STIFF HATS. For blacks, put them on the electric Hat Clean- ing Machine (see cover), and apply brush to re- BRUSH TO USE WITH CLEANING MACHINE. 34 move dust ; afterwards take a piece of dark cloth about eighteen inches long by six wide, hold op- posite end in each hand ; begin operation at band, and work to crown with light pressure. For black hats the cloth may be slightly greased. For Hght-colored hats take a clean, wet sponge, and after removing dust with a brush, hold the hat in the left hand, and go over it evenly with a movement drawing towards you, beginning at the band and working upwards to the center of the tip ; then put it on the electric Hat Cleaning Machine to dry ; when dry, take a clean cloth and use as for blacks. If you do not have a machine, put the hat on a rack, or shelf, until dry, then smooth it over with tissue paper, or a piece of clean muslin ; adopt this plan on the blacks in case you have no machine. Treat the brim in the same way with the wet sponge, then put on the Electric Hat Cleaning Machine to dry, or in lieu thereof put on a shelf. CREASING SOFT HATS. Hold the hat in the left hand crown upper- most, front facing you, finger inside, thumb out- side ; put vour right hand in the same position in- 35 side at the rear ; press outward with the end of the fingers of both hands, and you can then crease the hat in a straight hue from point to point. When you can do this quickly before a cus- tomer it pleases him immensely, and he at once desires to know how it is done, and will of course appreciate the favor if you show him how to do it, and will no doubt inform his friends, stating he has learned it from vou. TO DENT A HAT. To dent a hat make a circular movement with the end of your finger in the place you desire the dent ; if it is to be brought to a point, lay the hat on its brim on the counter and with both hands pinch up to point desired. TO TELESCOPE. To telescope, run down the crown to height desired, put the hat, crown downwards, on the counter and place your hand inside ; begin in center with a circular movement, and press crown fiat to counter. You can make this crease still neater by putting the stretch block inside the inner fold and expanding it until the folds are close together. 36 HAT SIZE— TO ASCERTAIN.. Comparatively few people understand how the size number of a hat — say seven, or seven and one-eighth — is obtained. We follow the English method, which is as follows : The hat is measured from front to rear inside, which for illustration we will say is seven and three-quarters inches ; then measured from side to side, which, suppose, is six and one-quar- ter inches ; the two lengths are added together, ;lide rule. making fourteen inches, which, if divided by two, makes seven inches ; this would be the size of the hat according to English measurement. This plan is adopted in the United States, with the exception that one-eighth (or one size) is added ; therefore, for this country, the hat men- tioned above would be seven and one-eighth. If you will notice, all imported hats (unless specially marked) are one size larger — according to the size marked — than ours. This rule applies to all hats. ^Measure the length from front to rear inside where the head MEASURING RING. fits, then the width, from side to side, and add the two together, and divide by two, then add one size. You will understand that hats can also be measured with the brass rings sold for that pur- pose (see cut). WEIGH OUTS. In the manufacture of hats the term "Weigh Out" is ver}' common. For example, I cite the following : before the process of forming is be- gun, the material is "weighed out." and some- 38 times this is "light" or scant weight; and thus has originated the phrase in the trade to define a man about whom you want to speak sHghtingly, and you say, "He was weighed out Hght." It is also applied when a workman gets a doz- en or more hats to work on, and the term is used that "he has got his weigh out," instead of the usual term that he has "received work," although the hats may not have been weighed at all. Another feature regarding hat operatives is that in case his wages amount to twenty dollars and thirty cents, he is paid the twenty dollars, The thirty cents goes over until the following week. Whenever an operative receives his "odd change" he has been either discharged or is leav- ino- on his own accord. ROUND CROWN DERBY FLATISH SET. That like cut is flatish set ; brim can be set a little higher, then it would be called medium set ; raised still higher, it would be called well set 39 TO SET AND FLATTEN THE BRIM OF A DERBY. You can set up the brim of a derby by heating and putting it on the setting board and working up the sides with your fingers. You can flatten the brim of a derby b^• heat- ing it and putting half of the brim on the coun- FOOT TOLICKER. ilC>Sl