o " • %.** • ''bV ,4< • • • aV • •0 • «« 0" •, • •« Roundabout Rambles NORTHERN EUROPE - 1/ CHARLES FAKING Author of the " Land We Live In," etc. THE LIBRARY or CONGRESS [WASHINGTON BOSTON LEE AND SHEPARD PUBLISHERS 1S98 13995 Copyright, 1898, by Lee and Shepard All rights reserved Roundabout Rambles in Northern Europe nVED. \> V'S. TYPOGRAPHY BY C. J. PETERS & SON, BOSTON. PRESSWORK by BERWICK & SMiTH. "8681. *AdOO PU2 PREFACE The Cartmells are natural travellers. They love to see the beautiful and the wonderful, at home and abroad ; they are willing to put up with inconveniences, and they rarely worry over accidents or grumble at delays. Mr. and Mrs. Cartmell began to make short excursions, taking their children with them when quite small. Before going to Europe, long trips were made in America, and described in the volume entitled " The Land We Live In." Pleasure and education are the great objects of their journeyings. Miss Gray, the governess, usually accompanies them to look after the children, and to give them instruction as occa- sion permits. Frequently Mr. French, an old friend, joins the Cartmells, with his new yacht, the Verbena. As Great Britain is so closely connected with the United States by language, history, and ancestry, the Cartmells find much to interest- thenr -there,-- and spend nearly a year in sojourning within its borders. Even then many well-known places are not visited, and are in many cases not mentioned in the text. Every effort has been made to have the information given correct and up to date, so that the book may be a safe guide to all travellers crossing the Atlantic. The illustrations are nearly all made from photographs obtained largely in Europe. The Cunard Company has beeu.very courteous in lending pho- tographs and cuts. A list of poems connected with the places described, which can be read profitably as the chapters are taken up, is given at the end of the book. IV PREFACE Following the poems will be found a list of the best books used in the preparation of this volume, which can be con- sulted for more detailed information. The author hereby ac- knowledges his great indebtedness to these books for valuable facts. Great assistance has also been given him by Mr. M. T. Pritchard, Master of the Everett School, Boston ; Miss Emma L. Merrill, B-oxbury ; Mrs. Mary E. Ereeman, Dorchester ; and Miss Gratia Cobb, Philadelphia. THE AUTHOR. COJSTTEJ^TS Chapter Page I. A EUROPEAN TOUR . 1 General Route in the British Isles — Tug — Lucania, a Cunard Steamer — Ancient Log — Modem Log — Cunard Track Chart — Ship's Compass — Fishing Schooner. 11. CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 15 At Sea — Drawing-Room — Twin Screws — Engine Rooms — Triple Expansion Engine — Bed of the Ocean — Phosphores- cence — "Wheel-House — Search-Lights — Different Lines of Steamers — Queenstown — Harbor — Landing — The Espla- nade. III. THROUGH IRELAND 29 Cork Harbor — Seaside Village — Jaunting Car — Blarney Cas- tle — Route in Ireland — Gap of Dunloe — Killarney — Eagle's Nest — Middle Lake — Ross Castle — Killarney Lakes. IV. NORTHERN IRELAND 40 English and Irish Railways — Western Part of Ireland — Peas- ants and Cabins — Dublin — Tram-Cars — Phoenix Park — Bel- fast — Antrim — Round Tower — Cliffs — Giant's Causeway. V. IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 54 Route near Glasgow — Broomielaw Bridge — Clyde — Atlantic Liners — Building the Campania — Ready for Launching — Launched — Route in Scotland — Burns's Cottage — Kirk-Allo- way — Burns's Mausoleum. VI. OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 68 Fingal's Cave — Basalt — Island of lona — Lecture on Scotland — Famous Lakes — Dumbarton Castle — Balloch — Ben Lomond — Loch Lomond — Loch Katrine — The Trossachs — Forth Bridge — Edinburgh — Scott's Monument — Edinburgh Castle — Holyrood Palace. V yj CONTENTS Chapter Page VII. ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES . . 86 Roslin Chapel — Melrose Abbey — Abbotsf ord — Route in Eng- land — England and Wales — York Minster — Plan — Choir Screen — Front Facade — Chapter-House — Choir — The Five Sisters — Lincoln Cathedral — Peterborough Cathedral — Ely Cathedral — Cambridge — On the Cam — University Town — Senior Wrangler. VIII. LONDON, FROM CHARING CROSS TO TEMPLE BAR 107 Hotel Metropole — Trafalgar Square — Sketch Map of Lon- don — Fred's Map of London — London — Whitehall, Horse Guards — Houses of Parliament and the Thames — Clock Tower — Westminster Hall — Parliament Square — The Strand — Hansom Cab — New Law Courts — Temple Bar — Old Curiosity Shop. IX. FROM TEMPLE BAR ROUND TO CHARING CROSS 124 Fleet Street — St. Paul's — Choir — The Monument — Ludgate Circus — Bank of England — Royal Exchange — Mansion House — Cheapside — Seven Dials — Holborn Street — Oxford Street. X. WESTMINSTER ABBEY AND THE PARLIAMENT HOUSES 141 English Schools — Front View of the Abbey — The Choir — Poets' Corner — Coronation Chair — Chapel of Henry VII. — Westminster Hall — House of Commons — House of Lords. XI. AMONG THE PARKS OF LONDON 156 St James's Park — Buckingham Palace — Hyde Park — On the Serpentine — Albert Memorial — Albert Hall — Kensington Museum — The Tyburn Tree — Zoological Gardens — Regent Street — Richmond Hill — Fred's Letter. XII. TO THE TOWER AND TOWER BRIDGE 167 Victoria or Thames Embankment — Gardens — Tower — Trai- tor's Gate — Tower Bridge — People's Palace — English Char- acteristics. XIII. THROUGH THE HEART OF ENGLAND BY CAR- RIAGE 178 Windsor Castle — The Long Walk — Quadrangle, Eton College — The Round Tower — St. George's Chapel — The Throne Room — Stoke Pogis — Gray — Oxford — Christ Church — The Mar- tyrs' Memorial — Oxford, Cambridge. CONTENTS vii Chapter Page XIV. CLASSIC GROUND 195 Blenheim Park — Stratf ord-on-Avon — Stratford Church — Memorial Window — New Place — Anne Hathaway' s Cot- tage. XV. IN THE CENTRAL PART OF ENGLAND .... 203 Warwick Castle — Kenilworth Castle — Coventry — Rugby — Dr. Arnold's Home — Black Country — Vale of Cromford — On the Moors. XVI. THE ENGLISH LAKES 215 Scene at Grange — Furness Abbey — English Lake Dis- trict — Lake Country — Windermere — Grasmere — Words- worth's Grave — Seat at Eydal Water — Rydal Mount — Derwentwater — Greta Hall — TJUswater. XVII. INDUSTRIES AND COMMERCE 234 Preston — Manchester — Piccadilly — Ship Canal — Liver- pool — Lord Street — Landing-Stage — Alexander Dock — Commercial City — Enclosed Dock — Chester Cathedral — Eaton Hall — Hawarden ~ Birmingham. XVIII. TO LAND'S END THROUGH THE SOUTH OF ENG- LAND 251 Southern Part of England — Hampshire County — Winches- ter — Cathedral — Portsmouth Harbor — Bournemouth — Stonehenge — Invalid's Walk — Exeter — Teignmouth — Tavistock — Cornwall — Old Lizard Head — St. Michael's Mount — Penzance — Land's End — Brighton. XIX. NORWAY, — PLACES AND PEOPLE 269 Trondhjem — Route in Norway, etc. — North Cape — Ham- merfest — Tromsoe — Fish Drying — The Laplander — A Lapp Boy — A Laplander's Home — A Group of Lapp Boys — Norwegian Carriages — Flatbread — Farm Buildings — Farm Work. XX. NORWAY, — FIORDS AND FALLS 286 Geiranger Fiord — Seven Sisters — Bergen — Naersfiord — Market — Norwegian Wedding — Eingdalf os — University. XXI. DENMARK AND SWEDEN 297 Copenhagen — Thorwaldsen Museum — The Bourse — Church of Our Saviour — Sweden — Gotha Canal — TJpsala — Stock- holm — Mines. viii CONTENTS Chapter Page XXII. RUSSIA . 309 The Government — Nihilists — Czar of Russia — Kronstadt — Neva Eiver — St. Petersburg — Drinking Tea — St. Isaac Cathedral — The Alexander Column — Drosky — Coachman — Store — Sleigh — Troyka — Winter Palace — Hermitage. XXIII. MOSCOW AND NIJNI-NOVGOROD 325 A Russian Village — Moujik — The Kremlin — St. Basil's Church — Redeemer Gate — View from the Kremlin — The Great Bell — Treasury — Cossack — Nijni-Novgorod — Wolves. N^ORTHERN EUROPE CHAPTER 1 A EUROPEAN TOUR " I HAVE a cleliglitful surprise for you," said Mr. Cartmell one evening in early April, as the family gathered around the pleasant wood fire in the library, which the belated spring made extremely agreeable. " What is it, papa ? " chorused the children. Mrs. Cartmell smiled brightly. " I know ! I know ! " cried Florence ; " you are going to take us all to Europe." " You are a witch indeed ! " laughed Mr. Cartmell. " You find out all my secrets. I see that I may as well tell you at once. You are right. I have arranged for an extensive European tour, and we shall leave New York in May. Mamma must set about her preparations at once. As for you chil- dren, I shall expect an immense amount of studying for the 1 2 KORTHERN EUROPE next few weeks. Miss Gray will have her hands full, I am sure." From this time on everything was bustle in the Cartmell home. As this was to be longest journey yet undertaken by a THE BRITISH ISLES General Route in the British Isles. the family, there were countless arrangements to be made before leaving. Finally everything was in order, even to the careful pack- A EUROPEAN TOUR 8 ing of the camera; and on a beautiful day in late Ma}', the family found themselves on the docks in New York, ready for sailing. Mr. Cartmell had taken passage on one of the swiftest Atlantic liners to Liverpool, in order that the children might become familiar with the latest remarkable feats accom- plished in steamship architecture and equipment. As the giant craft lay alongside the dock, it afforded a good oppor- tunity to compare her length with objects on shore. Her exact measurement was 620 feet, nearly an eighth of a mile. As the sailiiig-liour approached, the scene on the dock became more and more animated. Heavy drays loaded with Tug under steam. merchandise hurried to discharge at the different gangways, where huge cranes were rapidly swinging the last of the cargo on board. Mail-wagons, with hundreds of sacks of Euro- pean mail-matter, carriages filled with travellers and weighted 4 NORTHERN EUROPE with trunks, busy truckmen threading their way through the crowds, fruit and flower venders calling their wares, the gay good-bys and the sad partings of friends, all contributed to make up a novel and interesting picture. At last the warning cry " All ashore ! " and the deafening noise of the whistle, bade every one not ocean bound leave the ship. The great hawsers were slipped ; and the ship, assisted by two tugboats, turned her prow seaward. On the way down New York Harbor, the party noted the colossal statue of Liberty, the quarantine station, the quaint little fort on Governor's Island, and other points of interest. Mr. Cartmell called attention to the low, sandy shores of the bay, curving out from the New Jersey side into the point called Sandy Hook, the outermost land of the harbor. At Sandy Hook the pilot, whom every steamer must take down the harbor, left the ship, and the voyage was really begun. Although the children desired to stay on deck till land entirely faded from view, Mrs. Cartmell, as a more experi- enced ocean traveller, insisted that their staterooms should at once be arranged for the voyage. As there were several hun- dred passengers on board, it was desirable to be settled as soon as possible. Before an hour had elapsed, the wisdom of this suggestion was apparent. Papa meanwhile had attended to the seats at table, and the bringing out of the deck-chairs and warm rugs. The family were glad to find their rooms conveniently near the main stairway. The beautiful decorations, and the many arrangements for the travellers' comfort, were a pleasurable surprise. The long corridors, spacious saloons, and broad staircases, with the troops of white-coated waiters, made it difficult to realize that so great a hotel establishment could really be afloat on an ocean voyage. By the advice of Mrs. Cartmell, no attempt was made to explore the ship till the 6 NORTHERN EUROPE next day. The evening, though a beautiful one, saw but half the party on the deck. The long swell of the ocean, and the jar of the machinery, caused the majority of the passengers to retire to their staterooms early. Dining-room, Lucania. The next morning dawned bright and clear, with the sea smooth, and the air light and cool. Notwithstanding the good weather, but a small proportion of the passengers ap- peared for breakfast in the dining-room, and the row of chairs on the decks showed many vacancies. Mrs. Cartmell did not feel well enough to leave her stateroom, and all were more or less affected by the motion ; but Mr. Cartmell was urgent for fresh air, and finally succeeded in establishing Florence and Nellie in their chairs on deck. Tucked up snugly in shawls and rugs, they soon felt decidedly better. " Papa, Avhat causes seasickness ? " queried Florence, as she rearranged her pillows. A EUROPEAN TOUR 7 ''There are many reasons given," returned Mr. Cartmell. '' It is my theory that the trouble comes from the eye and the brain. The eye is strained by tlie unsteadiness of objects, and the brain fatigued. The ensuing dizziness produces nau- sea. However, do not dwell on your feelings too much. You will soon be all right. You will see plenty of things to interest you." The noon hour brought several novel incidents, besides the cheering cups of hot bouillon carried about by the deck steward. The first was the throwing of the log to ascertain the speed of the ship. George and Fred had made friends with one of the officers, who kindly explained the working of the device. Ancient Log. " The log itself is, as you see, a small triangular piece of wood five or six inches wide. One edge is curved and weighted with lead to keep the log iipright in the water. It hangs square by two cords knotted into holes, the ends fastened to the log-line. When the log is used, a man holds the reel over his head, and throws the chip well clear of the wake of the ship. An officer with a sand-glass " turns " at the right moment, and when the sand has run out, calls ''stop." By the number of knots in the log-line which have run out, the speed of the ship is estimated. The word knot is used to designate a nautical mile, which is somewhat longer than the ordinary mile, being about 6,080 feet." " This is a very ancient device, is it not ? " asked Mr, Cartmell, who had been listening to the officer's words. 8 NORTHERN EUROPE ^' Yes ; the earliest mariners used something of the kind. Every ship, however, carries one or more of the modern logs. One of these is a long brass cylinder with registering dials, fastened to the rail of the ship. The line remains overboard for twelve or twenty-four hours. It has small screw flanges at the end, and these keep the line twisting and pulling at the dials. The electric towing-log is also one of the modern inventions." '' How many knots an hour does this ship make ? " "As you know, perhaps, this is one of the fastest ships ever built. We expect 21 knots an hour of her in good weather. The first Atlantic steamer made only 8. If you and your sons Avould like to see tlie machinery which pro- Modern Log. duces this great speed, I shall be happy to take you about to-morrow morning." Mr. Cartmell thanked the officer, and said they would be only too happy to accept. Meanwhile, from their comfortable chairs, the girls had been watching a seaman take the temperature of the Avater. A canvas bucket of water was drawn up over the side, and a thermometer plunged into it, and the result reported to an officer. On the bridge, high above the forward deck, they saw the captain and first officer busily engaged in taking an observa- tion, to ascertain the ship's position. It was announced that the result of the reckoning would be posted in the main saloon at one o'clock. A EUROPEAN TOUR 9 "It seems very mysterious to me," said Florence to Miss Gray, who had come up on declc. " I don't see how they can ever tell where we are with those little telescope things." " Well, you may be sure they can," said Miss Gray, look- ing upward at the bridge. " The practical demonstrations of the science of navigation are always impressive to a lands- man. The modern sextants, quadrants, chronometers, and the many other things which go to the equipment of a ship like this, are instruments of extreme accurac}^ There is no haphazard sailing for the ship of to-day. She is expected to make her voyages with safety and despatch, and she must make them on time. The voyages of this ship from 'New York to Liverpool seldom vary from the scheduled time of about six days." " The compass is a very old instrument, I know," said Florence. ''Are the new ones very different from the old ? " "As it was many centuries ago, the compass is still the chief reliance of the sailor, and is practically unaltered since its invention in 1307. But come, let us take a walk around the deck. T am sure you will feel better. AVe can soon walk a mile." Coming from the dining-saloon after luncheon the next day, every one was much surprised to find the weather quite changed. The bright sunshine had vanished, and a cold, gray mist shut in the ship. It was difficult to see from one end of the ship to the other. The fog-whistle began to send forth its dreary tones every few minutes. " I suppose we must have reached the Newfoundland Banks, have we not ? " asked George of a fellow-passenger who was walking i;p and down the deck. " The chart in the saloon shows that we have run 936 miles." "Yes, these are the Banks," said the gentleman, pulling up the collar of his mackintosh, " There are always rain and fog in this locality." 10 NORTHERN EUROPE " It must be very dangerous." '•Of course the greatest danger is from collision. Every care, however, is taken, and the whistle is kept constantly going. The lookouts in the bow have been doubled, as you see ; and there are two men in that queer little arrangement called the ' crow's nest ' on the foremast. Some fogs lie low SWSUillM® TlfiAgK' (gEJiHair.. on the water, and it often happens that the men in the crow's nest can see the masts of ships or steamer-funnels or lights directly over the fog." " What is the reason for the constant fogs on these banks ? " asked George, seeing that his companion was ready to give information. A EUROPEAN TOUR 11 "That is an interesting question. To be brief, tlie New- foundland fogs are caused by the meeting of the Arctic cur- rent called the ' Cold Wall/ which sweeps downward from the north, and the warm current of the Gulf Stream, which comes upward from the Gulf of Mexico. The Gulf Stream rapidly parts with its heat, causing vapor to rise. You have (gWMiil^® "ffl^iXeiK (giaA^lf. D 1 STANCES > HOM EWARD. from Sandi/ Honk to C'.Toslllot \ JOSSMiles.thenre toFaslnct 6y Great Circle J730JHiies. Total saiSMiles. probably seen the same thing on a smaller scale on the shore in summer, when a cold day follows a season of heat, and the water is warmer than the air." " These ocean currents are very curious/' said George. " Yes, and of far-reaching effect. Take the Gulf Stream, for instance. It originates from the great eddy in the Atlan- 12 NORTHERN EUROPE tic, such as all oceans have, and starts northward from the Gulf of Mexico, a sun-heated river, deep and strong, flowing six miles an hour. By the time it reaches the island of Nan- tucket it has spread out widely, and has slackened to three miles an hour. Here we find it battling with the icy Arctic Ship's Compass. water ; and from here it passes over to the British Islands, to give them a far milder climate than would be their lot with- out it." ^' I suppose this ' Cold Wall ' is the current that brings down the icebergs into the Atlantic." "Precisely. Icebergs, as you know, are gigantic pieces broken off from the Arctic glaciers when they run down into the sea. The force of the waves is constantly breaking off these great pieces of ice, which are sometimes carried far to the south. These bergs show only one-eighth of their bulk above the water. The lower parts are often weighted with large stones and quantities of gravel. As the berg melts, this is dropped to the bottom of the sea. It is supposed that these banks were formed in this way." A EUROPEAN TOUR 13 " Shall we see any icebergs on this voyage ? " " I scarcely think so. It is too late in the season. I have seen several of them when crossing in the month of April. Sometimes they float far south, but most of them ground in the shallow water of the Banks and Newfoundland shore. If Newfoundland and Nova Scotia should disappear, so that the shore from Greenland to Massachusetts would be nearly Fishing- Schooner. straight, we should have plenty of icebergs in Boston Harbor and an almost Arctic climate." At this point came a shout from the lookouts in the bow, and every one rushed forward to see what wias the matter. The ship was now at half speed. The hoarse voice of the \Vhistle seemed to meet a faint echo from out of the fog. A 14 NORTHERN EUROPE moment more and the shadowy outline of a fishing-schooner was seen, only to be again lost in the mist. " That was a ' near thing ! ' " said George's companion. " These Banks fishermen have a dangerous calling, and many a ship has been lost here. The business still goes on, how- ever ; and the great catch of codfish in this locality, which largely supplies the American market, shows no signs of giving out." CHAPTER II CROSSING THE ATLANTIC Meanwhile Mr. Cartmell had joined mamma, Miss Gray, and the girls, who were comfortably ensconced m one of the spacions drawing-rooms indoors. A cheery coal-fire, such an unusual luxury on shipboard, made one forget both illness One Corner of the Drawing-Room. and bad weather. Some of the passengers were reading, some writing, others playing games or doing fancy-work. " It is difficult to realize that we are at sea, is it not ? " said Mr. Cartmell. ^'- 1 have just been into the library, which I find well stocked with standard books. Here is something 15 16 NORTHERN EUROPE relating to Newfoundland, which Miss Gray will read to you ; it is about the first Atlantic cable." " When was the cable laid, papa ? " asked Nellie. " The first cable was laid, and messages transmitted, in 1857. It then ceased to work. A second cable was laid in 1866, between Cape Clear, Ireland, and Heart's Content, Newfoundland, about 2,500 miles. It was a great step m our progress as a nation. Since then there have been several cables laid. The French cable runs from Brest to St. Pierre, a small island near Newfound- land. But you will like to read about it yourself." The weather continuing cold and unpleasant, the Cartmell party went early to their rooms for the night; but sleep seemed impossible with the incessant noise of the fog-whistle. At ten o'clock next morning Mr. Cartmell, George, and Fred were all ready for their ex- ploring-trip with the officer who had previously extended an invitation. After a hasty inspection of the kitchens, pantries, etc., and of the accommo- dations for the second-class and the steerage passengers, their guide ushered them down several iron staircases to the engine-rooms. Here they saw the bewildering mass of com- plicated and powerful machinery which was forcing the great ship through the ocean at almost railroad speed. Twin Screws. CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 17 "Here is one of the engineers," said their conductor to Mr. Cartmell. " He will be glad to explain the workings of the machinery." Triple-Expansion Engine. "We shall be greatly indebted to him, I am sure," re- turned Mr. Cartmell. "1 am particularly anxious for these 18 NORTHERN EUROPE boys to see and appreciate the triumphs of modern steamship mechanism. To me it is marvellous." " In the first place, sir," said the engineer, as he wiped a bit of the glistening brass-work, '-'this is a 'twin-screw ' ship ; that is, it has two shafts and two propellers instead of one. Should one shaft break, the other will carry the ship along. Steam is generated in 12 boilers, each about 18 feet in diame- ter and 17 feet long. "There are 102 furnaces. The main boilers will bear a pressure of 165 pounds to the square inch, and some of the plates are 20 feet long. Each set of boilers has a funnel. The top of the funnels is 130 feet from the bottom of the ship. " The coal-bunkers and the boilers are in water-tight bulk- heads, completely shut off from the rest of the hull. Here we have the great- condenser and the pumps for lifting the water. The engines are what are known as 'triple-expansion,' and produce something over 30,000 horse-power. We use over 300 tons of coal a day." " How do you obtain your fresh water ? " asked Mr. Cart- mell. " From these four great evaporators, which are capable of producing 30 tons of fresh water a day." " There are also engines for the electric lighting, I sup- pose ? " "Yes; we supply power for 1,350 lights, and the current is distributed through the ship by 50 miles of wire. We have machinery for refrigerating purposes also, and we even sup- ply power to drive the hair-brushes in the barber shop," said the engineer, smiling. " Other engines hoist the cargo in and out, and control the rudder, which in ships of this size is en- tirely under water." Seeing their interest, the engineer explained some of the machinery in detail ; and two interesting and profitable hours were spent. CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 19 The weather remained unfavorable for the noon-time ob- servation ; but at one o'clock the chart was posted as usual in the saloon, with a run marked off of 517 miles. It was of little use to consult watches and clocks, as an hour was gained every day by the passage eastward. Many of the passengers kept their home time as a matter of interest. Dui'ing the afternoon several porpoises and small whales Avere noticed, their black backs showing for a few seconds as they rose to the surface of the water. Mr. Cartmell ex- plained that these whales were not the sperm or right whales, Avhich are hunted for oil and whalebones. Quantities of sea- gulls were also to be seen in the wake of the ship, and the passengers amused themselves by throwing pieces of biscuit to them. They appeared to have the most voracious appe- tites. It Avas strange to see these birds so many hundred miles from land following with no apparent fatigue the rap- idly moving ship. Miss Gray had found some interesting chapters on the North Atlantic Ocean in the book Mr. Cartmell had selected, and was able to give all kinds of information on this sub- ject in answer to the questions of the girls. "How deep is the deepest part of the Atlantic ? " asked Florence, as they paced up and down the deck. '' It varies very much. The bed of the ocean presents the same irregularities as the land. I believe the greatest depth found in the North Atlantic by the exploring-ship Challenger was 3,875 fathoms, or over 4 miles. The average depth is about 2,000 fa,thoms. There are high peaks, like the Azores Islands, and deep valleys or depressions. The Atlaifitic cables are laid over a comparatively level surface, called the ' telegraphic plateau.' A peculiarity of the Atlan- tic Ocean is the absence of coral islands so abundant in the Pacific. The Bermuda Islands are the only islands of coral formation in the Atlantic." 20 NORTHERN EUROPE '' What gives the color to the sea ? " questioned Nellie, looking far out over the dark green billows crested with foam. " Scientists say it is due to different animalculae, to the color of the soil, the color of the sky, and to different marine vegetables ; but it is a vexed question, as is also that of the saltness of the sea. The saltness Of the ocean is very uni- form ; but it is always less salt in the neighborhood of ice, and for some reason the southern ocean is more salt than the northern. The most civilized nations of the world are found on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, and it is the great com- mercial highway of the world. Its coasts are better charted, better provided with beacons, and its winds and currents bet- ter known, that those of any other ocean." That evening the passengers who remained out on deck were treated to a beautiful sight in the brilliant display of phosphorescence which surrounded the ship. Indeed, she seemed to be ploughing her way through a sea of liquid silver. A knotted rope trailed overboard produced a beautiful ap- pearance ; and the surging, boiling wake looked like a fairy river of silver. It was difficult to realize that this beau- tiful spectacle was caused by covintless masses of minute animals. The fourth day brought a cloudless sky and brilliant sun- shine in the mid- Atlantic. The Cartmell party were on deck early enough to see a boat-drill and a fire-drill, which the offi- cer may call at any time, and which keep the men alert and active in case of an emergency. There were twenty large life- boats, ten on each side. These could be all launched simul- taneously if required. Shortly after breakfast, the captain, who had been con- versing with the Cartmell party at table, invited them up on the bridge to inspect the wheel-house. From this lofty point they obtained a fine view of the whole ship. On the bridge CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 21 was a double row of large brass-bound instruments, looking like clocks, set on a series of heavy posts. These were the instruments for directing the complete staff of seamen form- ing the watch of the ship, a telegraph for communicating with the engine-rooms, and for replies to signify compliance with orders. There were also telegraphs to the deck machin- Wheel-House. erj, warping-capstans, windlass, etc., so that when the ship was in motion, the men in all the different departments were under the direct control of the commander on the bridge. An instrument called a telemotor in the hands of two seamen operated the steering-gear at the after end of the ship. The captain explained that, as the ship was built with the understanding with the British Government that she should be used as a cruiser in case of war, certain points were espe- cially looked after in her construction. The most important of these was the steering-gear, w^hich is all placed below the water-line. The bulk of this gear was of cast steel, and 99 NORTHERN EUROPE weighed 45 tons. The rudder, worked by twin engines, could turn the ship in her own length. " And these two small towers,'" asked Mr. Cartmell, " what are they ? " "That is something very new in ships," replied the cap- tain. " Those are for the search-lights, one of tlie most serviceable appliances for navigation. These lights have pro- jectors 16 inclies in diameter, and each produces a light equal to 2,000 candle-power. The lights are especially useful on foggy nights, and when entering a harbor in the dark. By flashing them along the siirface of the water, it is an easy matter to find the buoys." " How many men do you carry for a crew, Captain ? " " All told, they number about 425 men. They are divided into three groups, — the sailing, engineers', and stewards' departments. You can see that these, with the several hundred passen- gers, are a good many for whom to cook," said the captain, smiling. "I don't see how it is possible to keep so much food in good condition," said Search-Light t-,, 1 lorence. '•' It could not be done if it were not for our great refri- gerating-rooms. I cannot begin to tell you of the immense amount of stores the head steward lays in for a voyage ; but I know that he usually starts a trip with about 20,000 pounds of beef, 10,000 pounds of mutton, 1,500 chickens, some 30 tons of potatoes, and 18,000 eggs." CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 23 "■ The mail-matter is no small item of your cargo, I sup- pose," said Mr. Cartmell. *' It seems to increase every month. We average about two thousand large sacks, and it often requires two trains between Holyhead and London to convey them." "■ Those look like pretty big anchors," said Nellie, looking out towards the bow, where two large anchors were secured. ^' They are, indeed. They are the heaviest ever cast, and Use of Search-Light weigh ten tons each. But I must leave you now, and go down to my chart-room." Mr. Cartmell thanked the captain for his courtesy in ex- plaining all these interesting matters, and as the time, four bells, or ten o'clock, rang out, suggested that they all go down for a game of shuffle-board on deck, a favorite amusement with the j)assengers. " I shall never understand those bells," said Florence, " and that way of keeping time." " Yes, you will," said Fred. " I can remember it now per- fectly. You see, they divide the twenty-four hours into three 24 NORTHERN EUROPE parts, in order to arrange the watches of the men to best advantage. At eight o'clock, twelve o'clock, and four o'clock, they strike eight bells ; then begin again with the half hour, — one, for half-past eight; two for nine, etc. It is very easy. We have breakfast at one bell, half-past eight ; luncheon at three bells, half-past one ; and dinner at five bells, half-past six." A game of shuffle-board occupied the rest of the morning. At one o'clock the ship's run was found to have been 495 miles, and the track-chart showed the coast of Ireland quite near at hand. During the afternoon a ship of the same line on her voyage out was sighted. Signals were displayed on both ships. A second' steamer was seen a little later. This proved to be, not a regular Atlantic liner, but a freighter, or "tramp" steamer, — a ship which goes from port to port as a cargo may be obtained. " Uow can sailors tell so easily the different lines of ships, papa ? " asked Nellie. " With steamers it is generally by the color of their smoke- stacks. Some steamers have their funnels red Avith black bands, some cream color with white bands, etc. Moreover, a captain usually knows at about what time he is likely to meet certain steamers. To avoid collision, the ships of this line take a northerly route going east and a southerly route going towards America. Tliis is Avhy we have not seen more steamers. But do you realize how nearly our voyage is over ? By to-morrow afternoon we shall see land, I expect ; and if all goes well, we shall sleep in Ireland to-morrow night." " What is the first land we shall see ? " asked Florence, gaz- ing earnestly out over the ocean. " The lighthouse on the Fastnet rocks," replied her father. " It is a picturesque stack of rocks off the coast of Kerry in Ireland. From Fastnet it does not take long to run up into CROSSING THE ATLANTIC 25 Queenstown Harbor, where we shall land. The arrival of the ship is cabled from Fastnet, both to New York and Liverpool." '' It is a wonderful thing to cross the ocean in five days and a half," said Mrs. Cartmell, who had joined them. " I believe the Great Western, the first vessel to cross, in 1838, occupied fifteen days in the passage, did she not ? " " Yes ; and it was a great day when she entered New York Harbor. She was a paddle-wheel ship of 236 feet length and 1,340 tons, and her horse-power was only 450. As compared with this ship, whose horse-power is said to be about 30,000, she was small indeed." From the breakfast-hour next morning all was excitement to catch the first glimpse of land. Every one expecting to land at Queenstown was also busy in packing up for shore. The one-o'clock bulletin showed a run of 496 miles. To a Queenstown, Ireland, trained observer of the ocean everything showed that the land was near. The temperature had grown perceptibly warmer, and the sea much smoother. It was about five o'clock in the afternoon when the cry came down from the lookout in the ''crow's nest," "Land 26 NORTHERN EUROPE ho ! On the port bow ! " But what the eagle-eyed seaman coukl see was not visible to landsmen for some time yet. At last the tiny speck on the horizon grew into a rocky islet crowned by a picturesque lighthouse. A while longer, and in the last rays of the setting sun, which shed a rich pink glow over the ocean, the beautiful green shores of Ireland drew close at hand, and the voyage across the Atlantic was ended. Not only the Cartmells, but many other passengers, left the great steamer at Queenstown for a tour through the Emerald Queenstown Harbor. Me, " home of the saints." The ocean steamer did not enter the harbor, but was met outside by a small transport steamer called the 'lender," which conveyed both passengers and immense quantities of mail to the Queenstown dock, or " landing." " Does all that mail go to Ireland ? " Florence asked. "No," replied Miss Gray; "all the mail is removed here, because by shipping it by the railroad to Dublin, and across to England by a fast steamer, and then from Holyhead to CROSSING THP: ATLANTIC 27 London by a fast train, this mail will reach the latter city a few hours sooner than by going to Liverpool in our steamer, and from there to London." At the dock onr friends found many young girls, men, and m^^\^'^M The Landing at Queenstown. women dressed for a long voyage, evidently ready to leave in a short time on some ocean steamer. Upon inquiry George, learned that these poor people were about to sail on a steam- ship for America. They made up the ordinary group of emigrants, such as Ireland sends oiit every few weeks to the United States, Australia, or Canada. " Did you know," asked Mr. Cartmell, " that so many per- sons leave this beautiful island that the population is decreas- ing from year to year, rather than increasing ? In 1841 Ireland had 8,000,000 people, now it has about 5,000,000." Beggars and peddlers soon surrounded them, and nearly 28 NORTHERN EUROPE drove them wild with their persistent entreaties. Breaking away from these, Mr. Cartmell procured a carriage, and drove for a short time. He and his family learned that the town stands principally upon a green island facing the coast. Its white houses are mostly built in terraces upon the slope of the hill. In some places, as on the street called The Esplanade, Queenstown. "The Esplanade," the view is quite extensive. It was for- merly only the Cove of Cork. It received its present name when Queen Victoria visited the place in 1849. CHAPTER Hi THROUGH IRELAND In the forenoon of the next day Mr. Cartmell took his family to Cork, going up the river Lee in a small steamer. In this pleasant trip they saw on the banks many small-sized bathing and fishing villages. The captain of the boat pointed out in one of these small villages the ruins of a castle built Cork Harbor, showing Queenstown on an Island. by a woman two hundred years ago — " for one penny." Her husband went away on business for a long voyage. She wished to surprise him on his return ; so she opened several stores, and paid the men who worked for her husband in goods, upon which she made a handsome profit. The profit on these goods covered the cost of the castle except one penny; hence the castle was always called " Penny Castle." 29 so NORTHERN EUROPE About six miles before reaching Cork they passed through a large inlaud sea. In this vicinity they noticed many line suburbs with white villas and green lawns. In the afternoon the Cartmells drove about Cork. They admired its commodious harbor on the river Lee, the hills and dales about the city, the abundance of trees, and the vel- Seaside Village near Cork. vety green grass everywhere. Miss Gray thought the city justified in calling itself "The Beautiful City." " Did you know," asked Mr. Cartmell, " that the name of this city is not taken from the name of a stopper in a bottle, but from the Irish word ' Corrock,' the old name of the swamp on which a part of the city now stands ? " Leaving the carriage, the children and Miss Gray climbed a steep ascent called " The Sunday Well," from which they saw below them a magnificent view of the lovely river and the varied landscape for miles around. After the children returned to the carriage, the party drove first to the Shandon church, of which the poet sang, — THROUGH IRELAND 31 "The bells of Shandon They sound so grand on The pleasant waters Of the river Lee," and then over the bridge at the end of St. Patrick's Street, near which they saw the bronze statue of Father Mathew, "The Apostle of Temperance." "I have," said Mr. Cartmell, ''very great respect for that man. He began to travel in this island in 1838, preaching temperance, and forming total-abstinence societies, and ask- ing the people to take the pledge. In the short space of two and a half years he prevailed npon two and a half million persons to sign the pledge, and the country was wonderfully changed." Irish Jaunting-Car, " Papa, when can we ride in a jaunting-car ? " little NeUie suddenly inquired. " This very forenoon," replied her father. " Where can we go ? " " Anywhere you like." 32 NORTHERN EUROPE " Let us go, then," said Mrs. Cartmell, " to the Groves of Blarney, which — " ' Look so charming, Down by the purlings Of sweet, silent brooks. Being banked with posies That spontaneous grow there, Planted in order. In the rocky nooks.' " When this Irish carriage drove up, the children saw that it was a peculiar two-wheeled affair, in which the seats face the outer side of the vehi- cle, so that the people , . , ,,y- ,. . „ sit back to back. The disadvantage of the arrangement is that the rider sees so little on the opposite side. They were all de- lighted with the beau- tiful appearance of the ground s around the castle. A small river flowed by, trees afford- ed shade, and the birds sang sweetly. " For what is this castle noted, Miss Gray ? " Florence asked. '' It contains the famous Blarney stone, which, if you kiss, is said to confer upon you all the gifts of eloquence and persuasion." '■' Let us find it at once," said George. When they went into the castle, and asked the guide where the wonderful stone was, he pointed out a stone in the Blarney Castle, near Cork. THROUGH IRELAND 33 Route in Ireland. 34 XORTHERN EUROPE outer wall, to which a person must be lowered by means of ropes. George expressed his disappointment, whereupon the guide showed him a substitute stone inside, within easy reach. Mrs. Cartmell told him she thought one stone was just as beautiful as the other. Mr. Cartmell selected, as the best route from Cork to Killarney, what is called "the southern route." This led them through Kinsale, noted for its fisheries, up the valley of the Bandon, well-wooded and fertile, and through the little port of Bantry. After passing through another sea-coast town, the route Gap of Dunloe, Killarney. rose to the height of 2,000 feet. The rain fell, and then sud- denly the clouds lifted, and the sun came out, revealing a wonderful picture of mountain-chains and numerous lakes^ THROUGH IRELAND 35 which gleamed in the sun like molten silver. From the sides of the hills, streams swollen by the rain rushed down through valleys and deep ravines, on their way to the Atlantic. Now turning directly northward, away from the coast, the Cart- E^^SS^', ' Eagle's Nest, Lakes of Killarney, mells soon reached Windy Gap, from which can be seen the Killarney mountains ; behind these were hidden the lakes. When they reached a fine forest, after several hours' ride, Nellie inquired, " Shall w^e soon see the lakes, papa ? " " Yes ; I think we shall see them very soon." A sudden turn in the road revealed the three Lakes of Killarney far below them. In view of this great loveliness, the party descended to the town of Killarney, where they spent the night. In the morning of the next day they rode for several 36 NORTHERN EUROPE miles beside the lower of the three celebrated lakes, and then through the Gap of Dunloe, a romantic cut between high and steep mountains on each side. The driver told them that one of these mountains was called the Purple Mountain, from the mantle of heather which covers it from base to summit. He pointed out a small river flowing through a lake, in which, he said, " St. Patrick drowned the last snake found in Ireland." AVhen they reached the highest point of this gap, they had a fine view, in one direction, of the Kenmore Mountains, which Middle Lake, Killarney. they had crossed the day before, while to the right lay the Black Valley, dry, lonely, and forbidding. "In this valley," said the driver, "are brewed all the storms of the country." After a sudden turn in the road, Nellie cried out, " See ! " And there lay before them the three lakes, shut in between high mountains, each lake dotted with many islands clad with trees, and looking like so many emeralds set in silver. THROUGH IRELAND 37 When they reached the Upper Lake, the carriage was exchanged for a large boat, and the trip upon this beautiful body of water began. The first lake was very long and nar- row, but so indented that a stranger could with difficulty find his Avay from one end to the other. In one place rose a pyramid-like mountain, two thousand feet high, covered with hollies, juniper, and arbutus. The granite summit was bare, and the boatman told the boys it was a good place for the golden eagles to make their eyries ; hence the name of the mountain was " Eagle's ISTest." Then he told about the won- derful echo there, and exhibited its powers. He played a few notes upon a cornet, and these were repeated in a variety of ways over and over. He directed a cannon to be fired ; and the sound was multiplied till it seemed as if a thousand cannons were discharged at once, then in rapid succession, and then at irregular times and places. This lake was full of islands. Pred asked the boatman how many there were ; and he re- plied, "Kobody ever succeeded in counting them." Entering the Mid- dle Lake by passing under a bridge where the current was very swift, they stopped for a short rest at a little island, and were surprised to find that here free entertainment was hospitably provided for all trav- ellers. They found that this lake was not nearly as lovely as the upper one. Mr. Cartmell said, "Thackeray was once asked which of Forester's Cottage on Island in Middle Lake. 38 NORTHERN EUROPE these lakes was the most beautiful, and he replied, ' The finest is the one on which you find yourself.' " Passing into the Lower Lake, they were delighted to see so many large and very lovely islands. The largest one was called Eoss Island. It was a great park, open to the public, filled with deep thickets, clumps of azaleas, rhododendrons grown into trees, and lawns covered with asphodels. From numerous coves on the beach they caught splendid views of the lake. The next island was still more lovely. It was called Innisfallen. Ross Castle, Killarney. "Did you ever hear, Mrs. Cartmell," asked Miss Gray, "the saying, that Ireland is the jewel of the West, Killarney is the jewel of Ireland, and Innisfallen is the jewel of Kil- larney ? " "No; but I remember Thomas Moore's lines : — " ' Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, May calm and sunshine long be thine! How fair thou art, let others tell — To feel how fair shall long be mine. THROUGH IRELAND 39 Sweet Innisfalleii, long shall dwell In memory's dream that sunny smile Which o'er thee on that evening fell, When first I saw thy fairy isle.' " Mr. Cartmell pointed out that the beauty of this spot was largely owing to the alternating hill and dale of its surface, ' OM Weir Brkfrje. Bruteen Bridge. Lower Lake. Killarney Lakes. the attractiveness of the small rivers and harbors, the loveli- ness of the vegetation, and the grandeur of the surrounding mountains. " The Irish speak," continued Mr. Cartmell, " of this part of the lake as ' a diamond set in emeralds.' " Not far from the scenes of all this loveliness in nature, Miss Gray and the boys, in their evening strolls, discovered many poor cottages, occupied by those whose riches were largely a few pigs and chickens and many children. CHAPTER IV NORTHERN IRELAND ^i^^tf^-gi'i ;'#»«*«**<< The next day the Cartmell party bade adieu to lovely Killarney, and proceeded by train to Dublin. Mr. Cartmell secured a compartment in a first-class carriage, and found it very secluded and comfortable. The children were greatly interested in the remarkable difference between the English system of steam-car travelling and our own. ^^^ ,.^ _- . ,-, (i'j^i^Q insh railways," said Mr. Cartmell after they started, " are very different from tliose in the United States. The stations here may be rather poor, but in England and Scotland we may expect to find many of them very charming and beautiful, with flowers and plants about them. The peas- antry are too poor to travel here very much, and the rival rail- road companies are always quarrelling." Florence noticed that the cars were divided into several cross sections, usually called compartments, containing six or eight seats, arranged so that half the passengers ride back- wards. Mr. Cartmell told her that many English people pre- fer the seats facing the rear. These compartments were not connected, but the officials passed along the outside 40 .TKM^Mg^milt^M^A Cottage at Killarney. NORTHERN IRELAND. 41 of the carriages and examined tickets before reacliing tlie important stations. In the small places the tickets were collected at the stations as the passengers went ont into the street. " Why, papa," exclaimed Fred, " there seems to be no way in which to warm the cars ! There is no ice-water to drink, no water-closet, no newspaper boy. What do they do ? " " This is not a first-class train, and hence has not the com- forts and advantages which we may reasonably expect in other parts of Great Britain. In England there are now trains called corridor trains, with dining-cars, after the Amer- can pattern of vestibule trains, and they are quite common. Wonderful improvements have been made in the railway sys- tem within a few years. On only a few lines have the Eng- lish yet introduced our admirable system of checking baggage ; but they send one car in a train to a certain part of the country, and another car to a different section, as is so com- monly done in the United States." " Mr. Cartmell, are you going to Limerick ? " Miss Gray inquired. ''■ No ; we cannot spend the time. I am sorry, as I wished you all to see the Shannon River, the longest river in Ire- land, where they catch the famous Irish salmon. Look on this map, children, and notice that the river descends so moderately it spreads out into several large lakes. After the third lake, it narrows for a few miles, and then joins the sea by a noble estuary sixty miles long, and in some places ten miles wide." " For what is Limerick noted ? " "For the making of thread lace in the houses, and fish- hooks from steel wire. I have been told that most of the people in that town have dark complexions and dark hair, showing that they arc largely descended from the 42 NORTHERN EUROPE Spaniards who were rescued from the wreck of the Armada, and who settled there afterwards." As they journeyed on towards Dublin, Miss Gray read to the children about the beautiful Vale of Adare, which is situated not far from the town of Limerick. Four lines were : — " How shall I tell the thousand charms Within thy verdant bosom swelling, When, lulled in Nature's fostering arms, Soft peace abides, and joy excelling !" Then Mr. Cartmell told Nellie and Fred that the western part of Ireland consisted largely of mountain ranges, barren and rocky hills, wild moorlands, and broken river valleys. The part, however, along the Shannon River was quite fer- tile. These mountains (he explained, pointing to the map) extended to the very coast; and the shore was very steep, many of the western cliffs being 1,000 feet high. The coast was worn, and consequently very irregular ; caves were abun- dant, and the islands off the shore were the homes of count- less sea-fowl. Only a few small fishing-towns were to be found on this coast, with the exception of Galway, which Avas the principal western seaport. Even this place contained only 15,000 people. Manj^ of these folk were so poor they felt obliged to go over to England every summer to work on the harvest, and thus earn money enough to pay their rent. Beside the track the children saw many cabins made of rough stones fastened together by mud or sea-sand, with a door to enter by, and a hole in the roof for the smoke to go out. " In one of these," said Mrs. Cartmell, " I suppose the pig and the fowls and the family will all herd together at night." They noticed from the train a good deal of wet, low, swampy, or morass land. This led George to remark, — " How much worthless land there is in Ireland." NORTHERN IRELAND 43 ''Would you consider land containing coal worthless ? " " By no means." " Well, in many of these marshes, or bogs, is found a kind Irish Peasants. Irish Cabin. of soil containing so much decayed vegetable matter that when it is dried it will readily burn. It is called j^eai, and, in the absence of wood and coal, is quite generally used for fuel." 44 NORTHERN EUROPE " Papa, what is meant by shamrock ? " Florence inquired. " The shamrock, much like white clover, is the national flower of Ireland, just as the thistle is of Scotland, and the Custom- House. Sackville Street. Dublin. rose of England. If you will notice the British coat-of-arms, you will see these three flowers growing from one stem." Several days were to be spent in Dublin, Ireland's former capital. George and his father went out to walk about eight 46 NORTHERN EUROPE o'clock the next morning. They were surprised to notice that the shutters were closed, and the streets and horse-cars quite empty. The stores were opened about ten o'clock. As every- body called the street-cars " trams," Mr. Cartmell made some inquiries, and found out that the name came from a Mr. Outram, who invented them. His name was shortened ; and they were soon called "Tram-cars," then "Trams." A ride about the city was proposed for the afternoon. In the ride they learned that the city was built on both sides of the river Liffey, and that this river poured its muddy waters into the beautiful and spacious Dublin Bay. The Cartmells rode through a part of Sackville Street, but which everybody seemed to call O'Connell Street, because at the head of the bridge called after the great liberator stands an imposing monument, crowned with his own colossal statue in bronze. They drove to the College Green. On one side they saw Trinity College, modelled after the great English universities. They were told that its inside arrangements were very fine. The halls, lecture-rooms, student-rooms, etc., were separated by large court-yards, beautiful in lawns and trees. In one room they saw the organ which Philip of Spain sent in the Spanish Armada to celebrate the victory he expected to win over the English. But the English ships overcame the Armada, and the storm drove the remaining ships and con- tents upon the western shores. From the wreck the organ was saved. At the gate of the college they saw statues of Edmund Burke, Oliver Goldsmith, and Henry Grattan, three of Ire- land's great men. On the other side of the Green the Cartmells found the Bank of Ireland, occupying the building formerly used by the Irish Parliament. The custom-house, on the banks of the river, they thought a fine building. The next day Mr. Cartmell drove to Phoenix Park, which, NORTHERN IRELAND 47 he said, is one of the largest parks in the world. They found it to consist of undulating land, woods of splendid elms, copses of pink and white thorn, meadows carpeted with golden-eyed daisies. On these meadows they saw feeding cows, gray sheep, and fallow deer, almost tame. Lakes and lovely gardens were abundant. Mrs. Cartmell remarked as they left, "This park contains everything but pedestrians." High Street. Belfast. Royal Avenue. " Where is Swift's monument, Mr. Cartmell ? " Miss Gray inquired. " We will drive to it on our way back." They found it in a very old church called St. Patrick's Cathedral, over which Swift was once dean. 48 NORTHERN EUROPE " Did he Avrite ' Gulliver's Travels ' " ? Fred asked. " Yes, and other books." Not far from this cathedral they rode through a very poor section of the city. The houses were tumble-down and dirty, with old petticoats hung up in place of curtains. The pave- ment seemed to be the market-place. Pawn-shops were plenty. Ragged girls in clogs and straw hats were selling the afternoon papers. The dress of the women was beyond description ; it seemed to be composed mostly of rags. "Notice, children, that nearly all the women go barefoot; but it would be considered a lasting disgrace for them to go bareheaded." From Dublin the Cartmells proceeded to Belfast, which they found to be an interesting place of 200,000 people. On their way to this city in the train, they saw many fields of the pretty flax plant. They learned that most of the people hereabouts were employed in the manufacture of linen and cotton, and that here also many ships were built. In this section of the country small villages were fre- quently seen. The people seemed better off than farther south. One or two excursions were taken from Belfast to places near by. In the sleepy little town of Antrim they saw a beautiful castle, surrounded by extensive grounds. Not far from this castle is the largest lake in Great Britain, twenty miles long and fifteen wide, about the size of the Lake of the Woods. Not a ship or boat was seen on its vast surface. It was never frozen over but once, they learned. On this trip they saw for the first time one of the famous round towers seen in certain parts of the island. This one was about 93 feet high. A bell formerly hung in the top. Why it was built no one seems to know. ''When do we go to see the Giant's Causeway, papa?" Fred inquired. NORTHERN IRELAND 49 ''We will start in a day or two, my boy." " How do we go ? " " We will go first by rail to the eastern coast, and then by carriage." At Larne the Cart- mells left the train, and hired a carriage to carry them northward. They were delighted with this ride. The road was a constant marvel of en- gineering skill, winding in and out, now high above the level of the sea, now cutting through solid limestone rock, now nearer the water. On the left were over- hanging cliffs, and on the right the open blue sea, as blue and bright as the Mediterranean. As they rode along, Mr. Cartmell pointed out the opposite coast of Scotland, and said, '•' From that section the invaders came over, and drove the native Irish into the inland bogs, and colonized this seaboard with a population which remains large- ly Scottish, both in names and characteristics, to this day." Round Tower near Antrim. 50 NORTHERN EUROPE In this northeastern part of Ireland they found the land well cultivated, even when near the sea. Fields of oats waved on every bit of level ground ; potatoes flourished in nooks of the cliffs near tidy cottages ; bright-eyed children were seen everywhere ; fowls were numerous ; and the cows equalled the goats in the power of climbing in this thriving community. The driver, upon being questioned, told them, " Most of these farmers are well off ; they pay their rent, and the masters are very kind to them." The Cartmells went into a farmhouse to get some milk to drink. They saw mahogany furniture dark with age, pictures on the walls, hens and chickens on the floor, and several dogs before the turf fire. Yet the place was quite tidy, and the milk very good. '' Papa," George asked, " what are some of the peculiarities of these people ? " '•' The Irish people are quick-witted, splendid at repartee, happy, jovial, progressive, generous, energetic, and ready to take responsibility. The best part of the Irish life is its youth. They marry very young ; they are virtuous, healthy, and strong." The nearer the Cartmells came to the northeastern corner of Ireland, the more evident the basaltic nature of the stone. " You will find, children," said Miss Gray, " that this sheet of basalt, on this part of the coast, is from ten to one thou- sand feet in thickness. It is a volcanic lava, poured out ages Cliff, Northeast Coast of Ireland, NORTHERN IRELAND 51 ago. All the promontories in this part of Ireland are com- posed of enormous pillars, which sometimes slope gradually down to the sea, and perhaps extend under the sea, to the opposite coast of Scotland ; for the islands of Staft'a and lona have similar formations." At last the Giant's Causeway was reached, and the car- riage dismissed. '' Why, papa, is this place so called ? " Elorence inquired. "The people say it was so called because years ago it was built by Fin McCoul, an Irish Giant, out of politeness to a Scottish giant, whom he wished to come over and fight him ' without wetting the soles of his feet.' " The Giant's Causeway, they found by exploring, was made up of three distinct tongues of rocks, running out into the sea, each with a distinct slope. The largest one of these tongues was about 120 yards Avide at its base, with a length of about 230 yards. It gradually narrowed, until it was lost beneath the sea. The next tongue was nearly as wide, but much shorter. It was called, from its appearance, "Honey- comb." The third tongue was very small. Mr. Cartmell led the children to the centre of the great slope, and then called their attention to the shape of each column. The children soon learned that some of the columns were three-sided, some five-sided, and so on up to nine-sided. Most of them were pentagons and hexagons. The columns were not formed of a single piece or block, but of many pieces, from one to two feet high, piled on one another, and wedged firmly together. George found out that these columns fitted so closely that a piece of paper could not be put in between them, and that there were supposed to be 40,000 or more dif- ferent columns in that one place. When the children had seen all they wished, Mr. Cartmell placed his family on board the electric railway, and they rode a short distance to Portrush. This raihvay skirted the sea so 52 NORTHERN EUROPE closely that they could see the waves dashing among the rocks of black basalt, streaked now and then with white lime- stone. Everywhere the rocks took on strange forms. Caves and archways were common ; through these the ever-restless waves came pouring and boiling. The train carried them back to Belfast. Reaching the hotel, the whole Cartmell family were greatly surprised to find in the office Mr. French, who was with them so much the year before in California. Wishing Chair. Lord Antrim's Parlor. Giant's Causeway. After a few moments of mutual congratulations, Fred asked, — ''Mr. French, where is the steam-yacht, the dear old Verbena ? " NORTHERN IRELAND 53 " Down in tlie harbor, my boy ; I came over in her. The yacht is again at your service, Mr. Cartmelh Wherever you wish, she will go." " Oh, what fun we can have then ! " exclaimed all the children in chorus. "How very kind of you ! " said Miss Gray. "We shall be most delighted," said Mr. Cartmell, "to have you join our party in northern Europe, and we may be very happy to avail ourselves of the use of the Verbena." Thus it was arranged that the Cartmells should go on board the Verbena the next day, and sail through the Irish Sea to Glasgow. CHAPTER V IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND After a good night's rest the Cartmells rose early to take a look about Glasgow, their first Scotch city, and after a delicious breakfast, which included hot scones and Scotch marmalade, hurried out-of-doors. The hotel, of whose situa- tion they obtained but a slight knowledge the evening pre- vious, was found to stand about midway between the old and the new city ; the former sloping downward towards the Map and Route near Glasgow. water-side in steep, narrow streets, lined with dull gray stone houses, and the latter rising through a handsome residential district, broken by pretty parks and gardens, to an emi- 54 56 NORTHERN EUROPE nence crowned by the magnificent pile of the University of Glasgow. Of course the older part claimed first attention, and a unanimous vote was given for a visit to the ancient cathedral as by far the most interesting of the public buildings. This was the first really historic foreign cathedral the children had seen ; and they were much impressed, particularly George, who, seated on a stone tomb in the dim crypt beneath the church, read aloud from his pocket edition of Scott's " Eob Roy " the scene of the chieftain's appearance in the cathedral. Coming out into the sunlit square once more, the party walked on for a while in silence, the spell of the place yet upon them. Even Nellie's busy tongue was idle. Glasgow, they soon saw, was not only a very large, but a very busy city, with many industries, and a decidedly wide-awake appearance. The shops vied Avith each other in attractiveness, particularly those displaying the rich and glowing Scotch plaid goods, and the jewellery set with amethysts, topazes, and other stones of which the Scotch make so much use. The prices, too, seemed much lower than in America ; and this gave papa an ojjportu- nity to explain the questions of ''free trade" and "protec- tion," and how prices Avere affected thereby. As Mrs. Cartmell and the girls were anxious to make some purchases, and also to see the Kelvingrove Park in the upper part of the town, it Avas arranged that papa and the boys should spend the time among some of the famous shipyards on the river-bank just beloAV the city. They Avere fortunate in their visit. "The Avord Clyde," said Mr. Cartmell, as they Avalked down into one of the building-yards, " is derived from the old Welsh word clyd, meaning Avarm or sheltered. The valley of the Clyde, or Clydesdale, was early celebrated for its crops, Avhich ripened better than in other parts of Scotland. Along the banks in this vicinity the broom-plant was especially lux- m AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 57 uriant. The name is kept in the Broomiehiw Bridge, wliich you saw in the city, one of the busiest centres in Glasgow. This is the same broom-phmt, by the Avay, which the Romans called the planta genista, and from which the English race of Plantagenets took their name." On the Clyde, near Glasgow. " The river was once very shallow, was it not ? " asked George. '^ Yes ; I understand that within the memory of men now living, it was so small a stream at this point as to permit of wading across at low tide. Millions of pounds have been expended in deepening and widening the channel ; and now, as you see, even large ocean liners can reach their piers at all but lowest water." " How long has the Clyde been so famous for its ship- building ? " " Since the very earliest times," replied Mr. Cartmell. 68 NORTHERN EUROPE '' The river-bank is especially well adapted for this industry, being well sheltered, accessible, and with coal, iron, and wood close at hand. " Since the introduction of steam, yard after yard has been added, till now, as you see, they extend for miles. Our own Hudson saw the iirst steam-vessel, Fulton's Clermont, and the honor of the discovery has always been his. The Clyde, however, was the first European river on which the steamboat was used commercially. David Napier and James Watt, the inventors of the steam-engine, made all their early experiments here, and gained their celebrity largely in con- nection with the ship-building industry." Building tfie Campania. By this time the party had been joined by one of the fore- men of the yard, who courteously offered them the privilege of inspecting one of the huge Atlantic liners which was nearly ready for launching. The noise of the busy steam-hammers at work on the giant hull made conversation next to impossi- IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 59 ble, but by close attention the boys were able to hear what their conductor had to say. " Ship-building has indeed become an art," observed Mr. Cartmell, as the party stood beneath the enormous mass of the steamship. " Yes, both a science and an art," replied the foreman, " One of the recent chairs founded in Glasgow University is for the study of the principles of ship-building. Scotland always means to lead the world in this industry." " A¥ill you tell us why wood has been given up in the building of steam-vessels ? "questioned Fred. " Iron doesn't seem to me as good." " First," said the foreman, " because ships constructed wholly of iron are much lighter than those of the same ton- nage made of wood, and consequently they can carry larger freights. The larger the freight capacity, the more money for the ship's owners." " These ships are built of steel, are they not ? " asked Mr. Cartmell. " Yes, As iron took the place of wood for ships' hulls, so steel is supplanting iron. Steel, as you know, possesses greater strength than iron, and is much lighter. The modern steamship must be fast ; and builders have been quick to realize that, as lightness is essential to speed, it is better to use steel than iron. There is practically no iron about this ship. All the early Atlantic steamers, however, were of wood, and, like the river-boats, were propelled by paddle- wheels. One of our most important industries to-day is the production of steel. We have immense plants in and around Glasgow, and make what is called "mild steel." This is used for boiler and hull plates, and is shipped all over the world." " What is the saving of weight by using steel instead of iron ? " asked Mr, Cartmell. " About sixteen per cent. An important point also is that 60 NORTHERN EUROPE steel will bend, and not fracture like iron. If a ship runs ashore, her steel plates will bend to a large extent before breaking." The Cartmells, at the invitation of the foreman, soon clambered up on the deck of the steamer ; and here, somewhat out of the noise, their guide went on with his explanations. '' This ship is 620 feet long, and on account of her extreme length it was necessary to rearrange the whole building berth. She is longer than the breadth of the river. To build such a ship, with all the modern require- ments of absolute safe- ty, speed, and luxuri- ous equipment, is, as you can see, an im- mense undertaking; yet so perfect are all the arrangements for handling such con- tracts, that a ship can be built in an incred- ibly short time." "The steps are the same as in build- ing all ships, are they not ? " " Yes. First comes the general design, Avhich includes tonnage, speed, power, draught of water, stability, etc. Second, the keel is laid. Nowadays this is inside the hull, and formed of heavy steel plates. It is placed on great blocks, which are inclined toward the Avater. There are in Ready for Launching. IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 61 all large ships like this two bottoms, one inside the other. This gives greater strength and safety. The heaviest hydrau- lic machinery is used to rivet and re-rivet the parts together. Third comes the frame, composed of angle steel or iron, bent to the required curve, and riveted together. Pourth comes the steel beams for supporting the deck, and then the fitting of the deck itself. Fifth comes the plating, each plate being cut to the proper size, and the rivet-holes put in. Each plate is rolled so as to lit the shape of the part of the vessel it is to occupy. Of the plates used on the shell of the ship, the larger parts average 25 feet long and 6 feet wide, each weighing over two tons. The butts and edges of the plating are then made water-tight by forcing them close together. The joining and riveting of these plates requires special machinery and skilled labor." Ihe Campania Launched, " The arrangements for water-tight compartments are also of the greatest importance," observed Mr. Cartmell. "Yes. The crosswise partitions, which divide the hull into separate rooms, are the main dependence for safety. In this ship there are eighteen such partitions. The sections occupied by the machinery and by the coal-bunkers are en- tirely shut off from the rest of the ship by steel bulkheads. In case of accident, two or even three of these compartments might be flooded with water, and still the steamer would float in safety." 62 NORTHERN EUROPE " I should like to see this ship launched," said George. «< It is a fine sight," said the foreman, " and a gala day in the yards. The launching of a ship of this size must be care- fully planned before the keel is laid down. Generally speak- ing the various steps are these : The vessel's keel rests on keel-blocks. Ways are placed on each side, and a timber structure called a cradle is built around the under part of the vessel. The cradle rests on the ways, which are inclined toward the water. Prior to the launch these ways are coated with tallow. The cradle is kept in place by a movable piece of wood called a dagger. When this is knocked out of place, and the keel-blocks removed, the ship at once slips down into the water." Mr. Cartmell thanked the foreman for his interesting in- formation ; and the party gladly availed themselves of the per- mission given to inspect not only the entire ship, but the shops in the yard, where the machinery was being set up. Six o'clock found the family talking over the day's experi- ences around a cosey dining-table at the hotel ; and as no one would acknowledge being at all tired, they started out for an evening walk towards the University and Botanic Gardens. "Do you notice how much more brilliant the colors of the flowers are than with us ? " said Miss Gray. " Yes," replied Mrs. Cartmell, as they stopped before a bed of vivid yellow flowers; "I believe the flowers are always brighter and smaller the farther north you go, and we are considerably farther north than Lake View. I remember noting the same thing in the gardens in Nova Scotia." '' I have noted something else," said Mr. Cartmell, " which makes me realize how far north we are, and that Glasgow is in nearly the same latitude as Alaska. Do you know what time it is ? Look over at that clock tower." " Pive minutes of ten ! Lnpossible ! " chorused the chil- dren, gazing around in amazement. IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 6S Route in Scotland. 64 InTORTHERN EUROPE. It was still light enough to read the finest print of the guide-books, and the west was bright and rosy. The next day was Sunday, and the Cartmells were glad enough to rest. A " Scotch Sunday " they found, however, to be in the Burns's Cottage, Ayr. large cities a thing of the past. Instead of the quiet an3 stillness they had read about, the street and steam cars and the river steamers were running as in ISTew York or Boston. The open-air band concerts were attended by thousands of people. Mr. Cartmell was greatly surprised to learn that it was the same in Edinburgh and in many other places. Monday, it had been arranged, was to be given to an ex- cursion to Ayr, the birthplace of the poet Burns ; and it proved a day long to be remembered. Miss Gray, who was a great lover of Burns, had hoped to catch at least a glimpse of the town of Dumfries, where he wrote his famous " Tam o' Shan- IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 65 ter," and of Mauchline, where many of his characters lived ; but the time was too short. The distance southward from Glasgow to Ayr was about forty miles, and at each little station as the train sped along the scenery grew more beautiful. Seven miles out the old town of Paisley was passed, noted for its manufacture of shawls, woollen goods, cotton thread, etc. Among the tall chimneys could be seen the dark walls of the old Paisley Abbey. As they neared the seacoast the pure salt air came in through the car windows in the most invigorating way, though with a Kirh-Alloway. milder character than that of the sea winds in Massachusetts. The beautiful , meadow lands were dotted with grazing cattle, and picturesquely divided by the winding stream of the river Ayr. ''I don't wonder the Scotch love Ayrshire," said Florence; 66 NORTHERN EUROPE " I'd. like to spend the whole summer here. We must at least have a real Ayrshire cow when we get home, mustn't we, mamma ? " '' Yes," said Mrs. Cartmell, smiling ; '' I don't suppose that the Ayrshire dairy products are excelled in the whole world. The grass is wonderfully sweet, and. the water pure." " But here we are ! " said Mr. Cartmell. '■ See, there are the real ' twa brigs ' over the river, which Burns wrote about ! How charming it all is ! " Five minutes more and the family were seated in a stylish trap outside the station, ready for the tAvo-mile drive to the early home of Burns, and the various places of interest. The pretty town itself, as indeed the whole region, was redolent of Burns. The birthplace, at which they stopped first, was found to be a humble wdiitewashed cottage thatched with straw, now somewhat enlarged from its original dimensions. It had then but two rooms ; and in the kitchen, with its stone floor and cavernous fireplace for the burning of peat, the visitors were shown the wretched recess where the poet first drew breath. jSTot far off was the famous " Kirk-Alloway," mentioned in the poem of " Tarn o' Shanter," now wholly roofless, and nearly smothered in ivy. The lovely stream of the river Doon was but a few minutes walk from the church ; and look- ing down into the amber water hurrying on over the pebbles, it Avas easy to conjure up Tam's wild ride from the pursuing witches. Standing upon the arched bridge, Miss Gray repeated, the well-known poem, — ' ' Ye banks and braes o' bonnie Doon, How can ye bloom sae fresh and fair !' " The ornamental gardens surrounding the fine Burns monu- ment were also visited. IN AND ABOUT GLASGOW, SCOTLAND 67 '•'Where was Burns buried, Miss Gray?" Morence in- quired. '■ His mausoleum is in Dumfries. It is a very appropriate tomb, — strong, sim- ple, and grand in style, like Burns him- self." "Ah," said Mrs. Cartmell, as they sped back to Glasgow by the late afternoon train, ''what a de- lightful day we have had ! The country looks even more beau- tiful and peaceful than it did this morn- ing. With how much more interest we shall read Burns's poems now that we have seen the very places he wrote about ! " "Yes, indeed," re- plied Mr. Cartmell. " I shall certainly read before I sleep, ' To a Daisy,' and several others; but the rest of you must go to bed early, for to-morrow we start north for an excursion among the islands." Burns's Mausoleum, Dumfries, Scotland. CHAPTER VI OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND When it was decided to visit Fingal's Cave, Mr. French offered Mr. Cartmell the use of the Verbena, which was gladly accepted, and all went on board soon after breakfast. Leaving Glasgow, the party soon found themselves at Greenock, near the mouth of the Clyde. Miss Gray called to mind that Greenock was the birthplace of James Watt, the inventor of the steam-engine, and that Burns's Highland Mary was buried in the churchyard. After passing through the Crinan Canal, 9 miles long, and up the Firth of Lorn, the mountains of the island of Mull came grandly into view ; and after a beautiful sail up the Bay of Oban, the Cartmells found themselves at the landing pier at Oban. The town itself was shut in by hills, and was apparently a great rendezvous for tourists, who crowded the hotels to over- flowing. It resembled Bar Harbor at Mount Desert. After dinner the party walked to the pier to see the Staffa boat come in, and watch the sunset, which was a grand spectacle. Steaming out of Oban Bay next morning, the travellers were in the midst of some of the finest scenery in Scotland. The great masses of the Argyllshire hills, the distant peaks of Ben Nevis and Glencoe, with the archipelago of lovely islands, made a grand picture. The captain, who was on deck, entered into conversation with the Cartmells, noting their interest. " If you please, Captain," broke in Nellie, " Avon't you tell us why Scotch mountains are called ' bens,' and the lakes ' lochs ' ? Is Ben short for Benjamin ? " OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 69 ''They are old Gaelic words," replied the captain pleas- antly. "'Ben' means in English a head, peak, or summit. ' Loch ' you have probably seen spelled also ' lough,' if yoa have been in Ireland. If you stop over in the islands, you will probably hear some Gaelic spoken yet, though it is far from common." " A]id is this the Sound of Mull ? " asked Mrs. Cartmell. " Yes ; and on the shore just there is where Sir Walter Scott laid the scene of his ' Lord of the Isles.' We shall be in the Fingal's Caue, Staffa, Scotland. waters of the Atlantic very shortly, and you will then see Staffa, off the western shore of Mull." " This western coast is quite different in character from the eastern coast of Scotland, is it not ? " asked Mr. Cart- mell. " Yes; they present a singular contrast. The western shore is rocky, broken, and mountainous, with innumerable islands, mostly volcanic, and deeply indented fiords or bays. 70 NORTHERN EUROPE The eastern shore has broad sweeps of land in gentle slopes. The climate, too, is very different. In winter the Atlantic really keeps these islands warm, through the prevailing westerly winds. The mountains, however, on the west coast make the rainfall much greater than that of the east coast. Were it not for our west winds, we should have the climate of Greenland. But here we are off Staffa, and the boats will be lowered for those who wish to see Fingal's Cave. You are fortunate to have a quiet day, for an entrance can be effected only when the sea is smooth." The strong Scotch oarsmen soon brought the boat of the Cartmell party to the shore, and into the cave. It was found to be about 200 feet long, with an entrance 40 feet wide, the roof 60 feet above the water. The walls were formed of great columns of basalt, ranged perpendicularly row behind row. The tremendous noise of the swelling tide mingled with the deep-toned echoes of the dark vault was not a little startling, and a few minutes was found sufficient for most visitors. " What is basalt, papa ? " asked Florence on their way back to the steamer. "It is an extremely heavy, hard rock, probably volcanic," replied Mr. Cartmell, " and is usually of a black or bluish color. It has the singular tendency to split vertically into angular columns, thus forming the curious perpendicular shafts you noticed here, and at the Giant's Causeway in Ireland. Staffa means 'the island of columns,' and there are several other smaller caves on the island. The formation undoubtedly extends all the way from Ireland here, under the sea." " Are there basalt columns in any other part of the world ? " queried Fred. " Yes ; I believe there are some wonderful cliffs of basalt in New South Wales and New Zealand." OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 71 After a sail of thirty minutes, the steamer reached the island of lona, the end of the trip. A guide took the passen- gers to several interesting places, including the ruins of an ancient cathedral, and a curious stone cross, one of over three hundred once standing on the island. The guide explained that lona was one of the earliest seats of Christianity in Europe, a church being founded there in the sixth century. By this time the day, which had begun with brilliant sun- shine, had become cloudy and dull, and a gray fog began to spread its chilly veil over the sea. The steamer passengers hastily returned to the ship, which was soon feeling her way out among the islands. The cabin was found to be much more comfortable than the deck ; and here, ensconced in a snug corner, with guide-books and maps, papa began a little lecture on Scotland. Scotland is about the size of the State of Maine, and has a popula- tion in the neighborhood of 4,000,000. The northern portion, called the Highlands, is very rugged and mountainous. The southern section is called the Lowlands. There are sixty prominent mountains, but none of them would be called high in the United States. Scotland has no very large rivers. The Forth, the Tay, the Clyde, and the Tweed are the largest. Their mouths, or estuaries, are generally very broad, and are called firths or friths. There are an immense number of lakes, most of them long and narrow, which greatly facilitate travel and busi- ness in the interior. The climate is extremely variable, with much rain and fog. It is too cool for most fruits, but dairy products are very important. Scotland is rich in minerals, and has notable mines of coal, iron, and copper, besides fine marble quarries. The sail back to Glasgow was without any special inci- dent. A day's rest after their return from the Oban trip put the Cartmell party in the best of condition for further travelling. They were now to proceed to Edinburgh by a northerly detour, in order to see some of the famous lakes, On arriving at the 72 NORTHERN EUROPE station where they were to take the train for Balloch, at the foot of Loch Lomond, Miss Gray told the children the his- tory of Dumbarton Castle, which they could see from the train. Mr. Cartmell found an acquaintance from Boston, Mr. Montgomery, who was starting on the same trip. Mr. Mont- gomery had also recently made the Oban excursion, and was enthusiastic over its beauties. He was sorry that the Cart- mells could not have extended their tour northward, to see the Caledonian Canal and the Highlands of Scotland. " How long is this canal ? " asked Mr. Cartmell, who was always interested in statistics. " It is something over 60 miles, of which 37 are over lakes and rivers, the remainder being artificial. It is the great natural glen, or valley, of Scotland." "Is the water deep ? " asked George. "About seventeen feet on an average, which allows for good- sized steamers." " I suppose you saw all the northern cities," said Mrs. Cartmell, " What sort of a place is Inverness ? " " Not particularly interesting in itself," replied Mr. Mont- gomery ; " but it is the capital of the Highlands, and the vicinity is interesting to students of history. Culloden Moor with its battlefield is near by, and also Cawdor Castle, made famous by Shakespeare in ^ Macbeth,' Al^erdeep, on the Dumbarton Castle. OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 73 north-east shore, is a fine city, with wealthy residents. Dun- dee, at the mouth of the Tay, is noisy, with immense linen mills. Perth has also large manufactories. They are all busy places." " Did you see many Scotch costumes ? " questioned Nellie ; "we haven't seen any at all yet." " To tell the truth," laughed Mr. Montgomery, " I'm afraid you won't see many, except on the soldiers. You will see some Scotch Highlanders at Edinburgh, at any rate ; and they are very picturesque. I saw a good many near the Queen's summer home at Balmoral in the north." "I want to ask if you ever went up to the top of Ben Nevis?" said George, who delighted in climbing. "I had hoped we might make the excursion from Oban." " I have done so on a former visit. It is, you know, the highest point in the British Isles. On the summit is a weather observatory, one of the few high-level observatories in Great Britain." " The lakes and streams of the Highlands are very beauti- ful, are they not ? " asked Mrs. Cartmell. " Yes ; the lochs number several hundred. The smallest are called tarns. They are formed by glacial action, and are very interesting to scientists. The valleys, with their central stream, when steep-walled and narrow, as in the north, are called glens ; in the south, where broader and more open, they are termed dales, as Tweeddale, Teviotdale, and Clydesdale." The train had now reached Balloch, and the tourists were quickly on board the puffing little steamer at the end of the pier. Loch Lomond stretched out to the north, closed in by mighty hills, its waters fairly dancing in the morning sun- shine. Every one congratulated every one else on " such an unusually bright day for Scotland." " How purple those mountains look ! " exclaimed Florence, as they moved out into the lake. 74 NORTHERN EUROPE " Tliey do, indeed," said Miss Gray, who was looking through her glass. " I understand it is the purple heather, now in bloom, which gives them a portion of their color. "V^Se must each gather some heather before leaving Scotland. Thistles and heather are the Scotch national emblems." Ben Lomond. Boat Pier, Loch Katrine. Loch Lomond. Scottish Lakes. " That highest mountain on the left is Ben Lomond," said Mr. Cartmell, who stood just behind them. " See what a grand purple shadow it casts away across the lake ! " "Yes, nothing could be more beautiful than this lake," returned Miss Gray enthusiastically. "It reminds me of our own Lake George, though I believe it is not as large." '' No ; but it is the largest sheet of fresh water in Great Britain," returned Mr. Cartmell. At Inversnaid a change was made from the steamer to coaches for Loch Katrine. These coaches were gorgeous affairs, with red-coated drivers and footmen, and powerful OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 75 horses. Mamma remembered that the Falls at Inversnaid was the scene of Wordsworth's poem, " The Highland Girl ; " so while the coaches were toiling up the hill, papa and the boys darted off from the roadway to catch a glimpse of the Falls. * The coach-driver explained that all this land for many miles was the property of the Duke of A , and pointed out portions preserved for grouse and pheasants. Later on they saw the cottage of Rob Roy's wife, and the ruins of a fort once occupied by General Wolfe. The views were very fine. Loch Katrine was another lovely sheet of water. While the travellers were taking a hasty luncheon, the impatient Ellen's Isle, Loch Katrine. little boat sent out shrill whistles, which echoed over and over again among the hills. Of the trip across the lake, George wrote as follows : — 76 NORTHERN EUROPE Locli Katrine to most travellers is the most interesting of all the Scotch lakes, though perhaps not as beautiful as Loch Lomond or Loch Achray. Its association with Scott's "Lady of the Lake" has given it a unique and undying charm. Every point has the coloring of poetry and romance. The Silver Strand, a stretch of white beach, Ellen's Isle, a fairy bit of rocks and greenery, Ben Ledi and Ben Venue, with their overhanging purple masses, are all pointed out as the steamer passes along, ^or those more practically inclined, the lake is interest- ing as supplying the city of Glasgow with water. In the Pass of the Trossachs, " Where twines the Path." The Trossachs. After a run of twelve miles, the steamer entered, a small inlet Avitli lofty rocks on each side, and made fast to the pier, which bore the sign "Trossachs." It was a wild, lonely place. " I am expecting every moment that Roderick Dhu, the fair Ellen, the great Douglas, or Rob Roy himself, will come popping out of these woods," said George to Florence, as he helped her to mount one of the waiting coaches. "Well, I don't believe they will," said his sister; "but there's a real Scotch pij^er just iu front of that first coach ! Isn't he a picture ? " OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 77 " He'll play ye a braw tune through the glen, m' ledclie," said the jolly driver. " Try him with a shilling." Half a mile farther on, Fred, who had been walking through the woods, came up with the coach, his hands full of ferns, bluebells, and mountain heather. . . ' - A drire of seven miles brought the party to Aberfoyle, from which place the train carried them quickly into the venerable city of Stirling, the end of the long day's journey. The lengthy twilight had nearly faded into night when the Cartmells drove up to their hotel, and they were all tired enough to go to bed as soon as possible. The day's sight-seeing in the quaint old city of Stirling was arranged to include the castle, once the royal residence of the Stuarts of Scotland, and so closely connected with the unfortunate Queen Mary ; the Field of Bannockburn, where the Scotch fought under Robert Bruce ; the ruins of Cambus- kenneth Abbey; and the monument to the Scotch patriot William Wallace. At the castle, which was situated on an isolated mass of rock rising nearly 200 feet above the town, a magnificent view was obtained. The castle was garrisoned by a division of the celebrated " Black Watch " of Scotland ; and the Cart- mells had a line sight of the soldiers in their national cos- tume, which included gay plaid kilts, glittering ornaments, tall plumed hats, and fur^bags or "sporrans." Within the walls the visitors saw many historic treasures. On the plain below, the guides showed where the royal tournaments were con- ducted in the time of the Jameses. After luncheon the party drove out to the Field of Ban- nockburn, now a peaceful stretch of rich meadow-land, but musical with the same little burn, or brook, which ran red with blood on that fateful battle-day in June, 1314, when the Scotch won back their independence from England. " Was it the same Robert Bruce who learned patience 78 NORTHERN EUROPE from a spider, who fought here ? " asked Nellie of Miss Gray. '' The very same," said Miss Gray, laughing ; " but I don't think he remembered his lesson long." Fred, as they drove back into the town, displayed some Forth Bridge. brilliant red pebbles he had taken from the historic brook as souvenirs of his visit. An hour's ride by train in the late afternoon brought the Cartmells into Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland. A few miles before entering the city, Mr. Cartmell let down the car windows that a view might be obtained of the great bridge across the river Forth, over Avhich the train passed. " How long is this bridge, papa ? " asked Florence, as she looked down at the river through the net-work of iron girders. " It is a cantilever bridge, and has two immense spans, as 80 NORTHERN EUROPE you see," said her father, " each about 1,600 feet, I believe. The centre rests on that tiny island in the river, and the whole structure is 150 feet above the water. The Forth is one of the largest rivers in Great Britain, and this is one of the remarkable bridges of the worki.:'^ " It is not nearly as airy and graceful as the Brooklyn suspension bridge at home," said Mrs. Cartmell. " No ; but here a bridge must be more firmly built, on account of the high tides, and the tremendous winds which, blow up the Firth of Forth in the winter." General View of Edinburgh. On arriving at the Edinburgh station, Mr. Cartmell and George hurried off to look up the baggage, which had come through in less than one hour from Glasgow. One and all the travellers were glad that the next day Avas Sunday, for the week's sight-seeing had been fatiguing. OTHER FARTS OF SCOTLAND 81 Mr. Cartmell had arranged to give a week to Edinburgh, thinking it none too long to see and study its many interest- ing places. As the family gathered around the breakfast- table next morning in the needed quiet of another Sunday, Scott's Monument. Mr. Cartmell took the opportunity to explain something of the situation and history of the city. "Edinburgh is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and on account of its learning has been called the ' Modern Athens,' just as Boston is called the ' Modern Athens ' of America. Edinburgh has a population of about 260,000, about the size of Pittsburg, Penn., Miss Gray's home. Its chief feature is the castle, which you can see from our win- dows here. Like the castle at Stirling, it is built on a curious isolated crag with three precipitous sides. The city is di- 82 NORTHERN EUROPE vided into two parts, — the Listoric Old Town on one side of a gully or depression which was once the bed of a lake, and the New Town, with its fine shops and residences, on the other. That fine monument you see down the street is the national memorial to Sir Walter Scott. To the left is Calton Hill, from which such fine views are seen. Across, beyond r-,,, Jlirih. SD-eet and the West Bow. Jeanie Deans's Cottage. Edinburgh. the Old Town, is the hill Arthur's Seat. To the right is the castle. To-morrow we will begin our sight-seeing." At an early hour Monday the party were snngly packed into open carriages for a look at Edinburgh. As they drove slowly down the broad Princes Street, not one could repress OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 83 an exclamation of delight at the numbers of splendid shops, which were absolutely dazzling with rich woollens, silks, and jewelry. The carriage pulled up at the Scott monument, to let George and Fred climb to the top for a view of the city and the distant Forth Bridge. Edinburgh Castle was full of interest. Like Stirling, it was strongly fortified, and garrisoned with troops. The party were taken by guides to all parts of the ancient structure. They saw the regalia of the old Scottish kings ; Queen Mary's rooms, in one of which James VI. was born ; relics of Robert Bruce, and many other things. From the battlements they Edinburgh Castle, from the Grassmarket. could look down 200 feet into the streets below. West Bow, below the castle, is near High Street. In another part of the city Miss Gray pointed out Jeauie Deans's cottage, the heroine of Scott's " Heart of Mid-Lothian." The drive down the steep High Street and Canongate of 84 NORTHERN EUROPE the Old Town from the castle to Holy rood Palace was full of interest. Mr. Cartmell called particular attention to St. Giles Church, where John Knox, the Scotch reformer, preached. Knox's quaint old house was close by. The Tolbooth, or University Quadrangle. Edinburgh. Court House, was a curious relic, showing what ^dTOtrnrgh was in 1591. " The Knox house was built a century earlier, in 1490," said Miss -G-ray, -" I wonder if Nellie remembers something else which happened about that time." '•Indeed I do," said Nellie. "You mean the discovery of America in 1492. It seems queer, doesn't it, to be looking at a house built before Columbus's voyage ? " OTHER PARTS OF SCOTLAND 85 Standing on South Street Bridge, the chiklren looked down into Cowgate, which was about 50 feet below, and saw the people moving about. Some of the houses on each side were several stories high, and occupied by the poorest people in the city. Cowgate at this point was seen to be very narrow. " How is it," asked Fred, "that this street below was made so narrow when there is plenty of room in the suburbs for expanding ? " " Well, you see," answered Mr. Cartmell, " the city was once surrounded by a wall for its protection ; and as all the houses had to be built within the walls, the space was too valuable to allow wider streets, such as we are used to now. I don't think any part of this old city wall remains in Edin- burgh, but we shall see the remains of one at Chester when we go to England." Holyrood Palace gave interest, and a subject for reading and research next day. The whole morning was given to its inspection. The ancient rooms were filled with relics of the unhappy Mary, including bedroom furnishings, now dim and tattered with age. "Mr. Erench, what do you consider the special traits of the Scotch people ? " George asked one evening. " From what I have seen and read of them, I should reply that the wild mountains, the poor soil, the bracing air, have all contributed to make them strong, courageous, healthy, persevering, industrious, prudent, and deeply attached to their country." CHAPTER VII ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES Before leaving Edinburgh the Cartmells spent a pleasant afternoon in a short excursion to Roslin Castle and Chapel, a few miles south of the city. They found much to see there, : ; and they were esi^ecially pleased av i t h the chapel, which is built entirely of stone, most profusely deco- rated. Miss Gray was greatly pleased with the Prentice Pillar. "The master-builder, children, had a young man working with h i in w h o seemed to have great ability. He asked permission to mak« one of the central pillars in this chapel. The request was granted. When his pil- lar was unveiled it was so much more beautiful than the others wrought by the master-builder, that the lat- ter, in shame and despair, committed suicide." The evening before leaving Edinburgh, Miss Gray read aloud from an entertaining life of Scott, and particularly con- cerning his life at Abbotsford, near Melrose, which was to be the next stopping-place. 86 Apprentice Pillar, Roslin Cliapel. 88 NORTHERN EUROPE '' I don't wonder the Scotch almost worship Sir Walter," said Mrs. Cartmell ; *' think what he has done for his native land ! " " Yes, indeed," rejoined her husband ; " it is iScot-\a.iid truly. His wonderful pen has immortalized almost every foot of ground. All these mountains, glens, and lakes would simply interest us as beautiful scenery were it not for Scott's writings. That gives them a charm possessed by no other part of the world." '' Shall we see Melrose Abbey to-morrow, papa ? " asked Florence. " I am glad I read about it in the ' Lay of the Last Minstrel,' with Miss Gray, on the steamer coming over." " Yes ; and it is one of the most beautiful ruins you will see in all our travels. Melrose is only about 30 miles south- east of Edinburgh, so we shall not have a long journey." The ride the next morning was much of the way along the banks of the Tweed. The ruins of the famous Abbey were so near the station that no carriage was needed. As Mr. French piloted the way, he told the children that Eobert Bruce once rebuilt the abbey, after it had been de- stroyed by an English king. They found the ruins were not large, but beautiful. The principal part of the choir was standing, and showed very slender shafts, richly carved capi- tals, and beautiful vaulting. The east window had in it fine tracery. They all stood a few moments at the eastern end, where the heart of Robert Bruce was buried. They saAV several artists about the grounds making j)ictures. Miss Gray spoke to one lady, and found that she was from the United States. Before leaving, Miss Gray quoted these lines from Scott's " Lay of the Last Minstrel." •If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, Go visit it by the pale moonlight." ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIYERSTTIES 89 From Melrose Abbey the Cartmell party drove the same day to Abbotsford. The ride was a rather short one, with nothing very important to see till the turreted buildings, form- ing an irregular pile, were seen just before reaching them. '^^^:Mm' Abbotsford, Scott's Home. Thej^ noticed that even the entrance-hall was spacious and grand. Here they saw, standing near the fireplace, the chest in which the unfortunate girl died, who hid herself just be- fore her wedding. You can read about this in " The Mistle- toe Bough." The roof of this hall has fastened to it several armorial shields belonging to Scott's ancestors. They next went into the library, where they saw the keys of Selkirk jail ; the key of the old Tolbooth, the noted city prison of Edinburgh ; the clock which once belonged to Marie Antoinette, the Queen of France ; the portal of the same old Tolbooth, which was presented to Scott when the historic jail was destroyed. This room was very large and handsome. The windows commanded a fine view of the river Tweed, 90 NORTHERN EUROPE Library, Study, and Armory, Abbotsford, Scotland. ABBEYS, CATHEDRALS, AND UNIVERSITIES 91 whicli could be heard rippling over the stones. The guide said the library was kept in about the same condition it was in when the great poet was living. The ceiling was richly ornamented. The books lined the sides of the room. There is a striking painting, on one side, of Scott's son Walter, as captain in the King's Hussars. Miss Gray and Mr. French were most delighted with the study. They found it almost exactly as Scott left it. Miss Gray sat with deep emotion at the desk, in the large leather- covered chair so often occupied by Sir Walter when writing his great books. This room was also lined with books. To reach those on the upper shelves an iron gallery was provided, going round the room about eight feet from the floor. The children were especially delighted with the armory. Here George found a thumb-screw once used for torture, a gag for scolding wives, and many such ancient devices. He was also greatly interested in the many different suits of ar- mor which are so often described in Scott's writings. Fred discovered there the pistol of JSTapoleon I., found in his car- riage after the battle of Waterloo, Rob Roy's gun, and many other historic weapons. The arms were classified, beginning with bows and arrows, and Roman spears, and so on, till modern muskets and rifles and pistols were reached. It was too late to visit Dryburgh Abbey, another ruin, where Scott was buried, in 1832. '' Scott's son-in-law, Mr. Lockhart," said Mr. French, '' is also buried in the same place. He is noted as Scott's biographer." An evening train carried them to York, where they were glad to find rest in a good hotel. " What do we go to see to-morrow, papa ? " Kellie in- quired before going to bed. " We expect to visit a very good example of a cathedral, called York Minster." 92 NORTHERN EUROPE J^