Copyright ]\'" COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. The Book of Annuals The Book of yinnuals A PICTORIAL GUIDE TO THE CHOICE AND CULTURE OF FIFTY OF THE MOST DEPEND- ABLE PLANTS THAT FLOWER THE FIRST YEAR FROM SEED By .^ Henry H: Saylor Author of Making a Rose Garden, etc. New York McBride, Nast & Company 1913 Copyright, 1913, by McBRinF, Nast & Co. Published; c -April, 1913 Ct.A347184 CONTENTS PAGE Introductiojt 13 Sowing, Trakspi.axting and Culture 18 African Daisy A rctotis (jrandis 29 Ageratum Ayeratum conyzoides 31 Aster, China CaUistephus horfensin 33 Balsam Impatienn Bahamiiio 35 Calliopsis Coreopsis tinctoria 37 Candytuft Iberis Amara and umbeUata ... 39 Castor Bean Ricinus communis 41 Catchfly Silene Armeria and pendula .... 43 Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum carinatum 45 Clarkia Clarkia elegans 47 Colioea Cobcea scandens 49 Cockscomb Celosia cristata 51 Cornflower Centaurea cyaniis 53 Cosmos Cosmos bipinnatus 55 Datura Datura cornucopia 57 Everlasting Ilelichrysum bracteatum 59 Gaillardia GaiUardia pulchella 61 Globe Amarantli Gomphrena globosa 63 Godetia Godetia amoena 6!i Gourds Cucurbita ovifera, etc 67 Gypsophila Gypsophila eleyans 69 Japanese Hop Tlumiilus Japonica 71 Larkspur Delphinium Ajacis 73 Love-in-a-mist JVigela Damascena 75 Marigold Tagetes erecta 77 Mignonette Reseda odorata 79 Moonflower Ipomoea Bona-nox 81 7 Contents PAGE Morning-glory ........ Ipomoea purpurea 83 Nasturtium Tropceolum ma jus and niiim.f ... 85 Nicotiana Nicotiana affinls 87 Pansy Viola tricolor ". 89 Petunia Petunia hybridu 91 Phlox Phlox Drummondii 93 Pink, Chinese Dianthtts Chinennis. var. Hedewigi 95 Poppy, Shirley Papaver Rhoeas 97 Portulaca Portulaca grandiflora 99 Salpiglossis Salpiglossis sinuata 101 Scabiosa Scabiosa atropurpurea 103 Scarlet Sage Salvia splendens 105 Schizanthus Schizanthus pinnatus 107 Snapdragon Antirrhinum ma jus 109 Snow-on-the-mount Euphorbia marginata Ill Stock Matthiola incana, var. annua . . . 113 Summer Cypress Kochia scoparia 115 Sunflower Ilelianthus annuus 117 Sweet Alyssum Algssum maritimuni 119 Sweet Pea Lalhyrus odoratvs 121 Sweet Sultan Centaurea moschata 123 Verbena Verbena (various species) 125 Zinnia Zinnia elegans 127 THE ILLUSTRATIONS {.Arranged alphabetically by botanical names.) PAGE Ageratum conyzoides Vgeratum 30 Alijssum maritimum Sweet Alyssum 118 Antirrhinum ma jus Snapdragon 108 Arctotis grandis African Daisy 28 Callistephus hortensis Vster, China 32 Celosia cristata Cockscomb 51 C'entaurea cyanus Cornflower 5:3 Centaurea moschata Sweet Sultan \-2-2 Chrysanthemum carinattnn ...Chrysanthemum 44 Clarkia elegans Clarkia 46 Cobcea scandens Coboea 48 Coreopsis tinctoria Calliopsis 36 Cosmos bipinnatus Cosmos 54 Cvcurbita ovifera Gourds 66 Datura cornucopia Datura 56 Delphinium Ajacis Larkspur 72 Dianthus Chinensis, var. Hedewigi Pink, Chinese 94 Euphorbia marginata Snow-on-the-mount 110 Gaillardia pulcheUa Gaillardia 60 Oodetia amcena Godetia 64 Gomphrena globosa Globe Amaranth 62 Gypsophila elegans Gypsophila 68 Helianthus annuus Sunflower 116 HeJichrysum bracteatum Everlasting 58 Humulus Japonica Japanese Hop 70 Iberis Amara and umbelhiln . . Candytuft 38 Impatiens Balsamina Balsam 34 9 10 The Illustrotious PAGE 1 pomoea Bona-nox Moonflower 80 Ipomcea purpurea Morning-glory 82 Kochia scoparia Summer Cyjiress 114 Lathyrus odoratus Sweet Pea 120 Matthiola incuna. var. an una. .Stock 113 Nicotiana alata or affinix Xicotlana 83 Nigela Damascena Love-in-a-mist 74 Papaver Rhoeas Poppy, Shirley 96 Petunia hi/brida Petunia 90 Phlox Drummondli Phlox 9i Portulaca (jrandiflora Portulaca 98 Reseda odorata Mignonette 78 Riciniis communis Castor Bean 40 Salpiglossis sinuata Salpiglossis 100 Salvia splendens Scarlet Sage 104 Srabiosa atropurpurea Scabiosa 102 Schizanthus pinnatus Schizanthus 108 Silene Armeria and pt'iidula . . . Catchfly 42 Tagetes erecta Marigold 76 Tropceohim majus ;uid minus. .Nasturtium 84 Verbena (various species) Verbena 124 Viola trirnlnr Pansy 88 Zinnia cicgans Zinna 126 The Book of Annuals INTRODUCTION THE field of garden literature surely has not suffered in recent years from any lack of new books. Volumes in plenty have made their appearance, laying bare the secrets of the bulb gar- den, the hardy border, the successful management of hotbeds — and few of them have fallen short of a very acceptable standard. Indeed, the time seems fast drawing near when we in this country shall overtake our astute English cousins in the degree of specializa- tion their gardening writings have attained. Some- times I feel that we are going too fast, that we are passing fourth readers around a class that would prefer a primer, for, after all, there are uncounted thousands among us who have yet to taste the real joys of gardening. Quite recently a friend asked whether I would help him with his choice of annual flowering plants for his proposed garden. He had before him a sheaf of the seedsmen's catalogues, from the bewildering pages of which he was attempting to make a list of seeds that he might order. The names, I found, meant little to him beyond the mere sounds. "Love- in-a-mist" had a definite appeal, but whether it was one of the old standbys or one of the difficult plants that the experienced gardeners have given up trying 14 ■ T]ie Book of Annuals to grow, he had no means of knowing. Its color — white or pale blue flowers — was listed, also its height, but whether it was one of the timid plants that need careful guarding from more vigorous neighbors, or a weed-like ruffian, seeking but a chance to oust all else from the vicinity, was as a closed book — and the definitely successful and well rounded garden a far- off goal. "I suppose I should lie able to find all these things in the books," said my friend, "but somehow it seems rather hard to dig out. The gardening writers tell me how to treat hollyhocks for the rust and that bulbs should be planted upon a cushion of sand, but I haven't yet found one book that will give me a start by helping me to pick out a dozen or fifteen flowering plants that will grow in spite of my igno- rance of their needs, and give me a variety of at- tractive bloom throughout the summer months." All of which is my reason for presuming to add this humble little volume to the long list that can scarcely be denied a space on the amateur gardener's bookshelf. The arrangement, it is hoped, has been kept as sim- ple as the aim of the book : fifty plants that flower the first year from seed sown in the spring are pic- tured in the following pages. Opposite each is given in condensed form the desired data regarding color, height, character of growth, soil preference and gen- eral culture, from which a garden of annuals may be chosen and brought into bloom. The list has been Introduction 15 made up with the idea of including the majority of the available plantvS, including a few vines. An asterisk marks about half of these as the most de- pendable plants that will give a satisfactory variety of form and color. In choosing a list for tlie available garden space, the most successful results will be secured by spend- ing some little time and study upon the planting ar- rangement on paper. It is so much easier to change locations and proportions on a sketch pad than to correct errors after the plants are once started upon their life work. Lay out the garden plot on paper first, representing each foot of length and breadth by a half-inch or other convenient unit. In a plot along a fence or wall, keep the higher plants at the rear and the low edging plants in front. Avoid straight lines in the clumps, allowing the various plantings to run in and partly around neighboring groups rather than as simple bands or blocks. Above all, have one or two generous groups of a particular plant rather than a lot of insignificant patches. With most annuals, it takes a fairly large planting to make a satisfactory showing, and it would be far better to cut down the list of plants to be grown than to at- tempt to grow more kinds of flowers than the available space warrants. There are four considerations that should be kept in mind while arranging the planting plan: color of flowers, height when in bloom, time of bloom, and preference as to sunlight or shade. The available 16 The Book of Annuals garden space will probably be either wliolly in a sunny location or in a partly shaded one ; the wholly shaded plot offers difficulties that, with annuals, are perhaps too great to surmount. This narrows our gov- erning factors to three, then, and it will require con- siderable study and readjustment to work out a plan for the bed that wall pass all tests. The requirements as to height have already been touched upon. If the bed is to be viewed from both sides, the taller plants will, of course, be put in the center, graduating the others down to either edge. A mechanical and too regular effect as to height need not be feared, for it would be impossible to obtain, even if we were to strive for it. The colors and times of bloom are more difficult to arrange. All that we need to make sure of, how- ever, is that there will be a fair balance of bloom in the bed or throughout the garden during each month, and that unpleasant combinations of color do not oc- cur. The use of white flowers between reds and blues, or between reds and yellows, or between two shades of the same general color, may always be de- pended upon to preserve the peace when there is any question about harmony. There is likely to be more need of the white between colors near together in the spectrum than between colors that are nearly complementary. A clump of clear blue is made more beautiful by contrast with neighboring yellow than if the two were separated. If you have a vista be- tween the beds — along a straight walk, for example Introduction 17 — the grouping of the blues at the far end, with the reds and yellows near the viewpoint, will give greater depth of perspective ; the opposite arrangement will make the end of the vista appear quite close at hand. It will be well to remember that the amount spent for seeds alone is a small part of the total of pre- liminary labor, soil enrichment and preparation, and tlie care of the garden throughout the summer. For this reason, do not hesitate to pay the few extra cents per packet that clean, healthy seeds must necessarily cost. While some gardeners prefer to enjoy the surprises that a packet of mixed colors will bring, those who have any definite ideals of color arrange- ment will pin their faith to the slightly more expen- sive seeds that will give bloom of a single known color. SOWING, TRANSPLANTING AND CULTURE HAVING decided what flowers are to be gro-WTi, there arises the great question of when to plant. In spite of the many attempts that are made every year to put the planting season on a definite schedule of dates, this will never be possible. There are too many variable factors to be taken into consideration — latitude, altitude, character of the sea- son, condition of the soil and so on. In the following pages planting dates have been given, usually, but it should be understood that these are intended only as a rough guide. The amateur will do well to con- sider that there are, in the big class of annuals, three distinct subdivisions — hardy annuals, half-hardy an- nuals and tender annuals. The first of these may be sown outdoors as soon as the ground becomes mellow and readily workable. This, roughly, is the first part of April, in the vicinity of New York — the latitude for which the dates in this book are given. North and south of this latitude the planting date varies approxi- mately a week with each hundred miles — earlier in the South, naturally. The half-hardy annuals are treated in one of two ways: started in a coldframe in April, to be transplanted into the open border in May, after Sowing, Transplanting a)id Culture 19 all danger of frost is passed ; or they may be treated as the tender annuals and sown in the open only after danger of frost. The tender annuals are those which will perish at a touch of frost, so they must be sown only after that danger is past. Of course it is impossible to tell just when this date will be in any location. June first is certainly safe, in the vicinity of New York, but by that time the gardener has lost perhaps two or three weeks of valuable time. The risk of loss in most cases is small — the cost of a few packets of seed — so that it is usu- ally customary to sow the seed early in ]\Iay and accept the risk of its having to be planted again. j\[ay fifteenth is usually considered a perfectly safe date. This is about corn planting time, a period which the Government itself has worked out on a map show- ing the date over the whole country. The May first belt extends from the middle of the Jersey coast out through the lower part of Pennsylvania, the central part of Ohio, Indiana and Illinois, along the lower edge of Iowa and through the lower and central part of Nebraska. On April fifteenth corn may be planted through the lower part of Virginia, central Kentucky, central Missouri and central Kansas. The April first season extends over the central part of North Carolina, through Tennessee, diagonally through the lower edge of Missouri, the upper cor- ner of Oklahoma, into the lower left-hand corner of Kansas. March fifteenth is safe enough for southern North Carolina, the central part of South Carolina, 20 The Book of Animals Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas and Okla- homa. On the other hand, May fifteenth is none too late for southern New Hampshire and Vermont, north- ern New York, the Great Lakes country, northern Wisconsin and Minnesota, and central North Da- kota. On account of this uncertainty as regards a safe date for planting the tender annuals outdoors, many of the annuals are started indoors in what are called "flats," to be transplanted into the open after danger of frost is past. It should be understood that in many cases little is gained in this way. The plants grow much more slowly indoors than they would outdoors in June, so that very frequently those who start the ordinary annuals in flats in April find that by plant- ing seeds of the same annuals in the open in late May the latter soon catch up to the former plants and usually prove more sturdy. However, it is a de- cided advantage to plant certain of the annuals in- doors, as they are slow in starting and the best of their bloom can be realized only by having the seed- lings well under way when they are set out in May. Such annuals are nicotiana, snapdragon, everlastings, cosmos (particularly the late-flowering kinds), salpi- glossis and moonflower. A hotbed is naturally the best of all places in which to start annuals such as those just named, and any others that may need an early start. The construc- tion of a hotbed has been explained in so many other books that it may well be omitted here. Sowing, TransplaiiUiig and Culture 21 For the greater number of amateur gardeners, how- ever, the hotbed will perhaps seem to be too much bother, and they will prefer to start the seeds in flats indoors. Late February or March is the earliest date when this need be done, in the vicinity of New York. Around Chicago, April tirst is time enough. The early date is for the slow-starting annuals. ]\Iarch fifteenth or April first is really soon enough to start the majority of them. This will give fair-sized plants to set out by the middle of May. It will readily be seen that it does not pay to have the seedlings reach this stage before that time. Not only is nothing gained, but everything is liable to be lost unless the seedlings are transplanted from the flats into larger flats, pots or paper pots. The flats are usually made by sawing ordinary cracker boxes into sections three or four inches deep and covering one side with boards, through which half a dozen holes are bored for drainage. Do not make the mistake of having these flats too large. They are heavy and awkward to handle when filled with w^et soil. The soil for the flats may well be of the best for its purpose. Otherwise all our trouble and nursing will go for naught. Perhaps the easiest way to get this soil would be to patronize the nearest florist. A proper mixture can be made without great trouble, however, by taking equal parts of good garden soil, leaf mold, thoroughly rotted black manure, and sand. The garden soil is best if scraped from the bottom of 22 TJie Book of Annuals thick sod. The leaf mold may be scraped from some hollow in the woods where leaves have collected for years. The manure must be old, black and so thor- oughly rotted that it is like fine black soil. Turn this mixture over and over on a platform or in a large box, with a spade, to make it uniform throughout. Then put into the bottom of the flats a ])ottom layer of cinders, gravel, coal ashes or even excelsior — any- thing that will secure drainage for the under part of the soil. On this put the prepared soil to the depth of two or three inches, sifting the top half-inch or inch on through a fine sieve — a piece of screen wire mesh stretched over the bottom of a box will serve nicely. See that the box is tapped to settle the soil and then make the top surface even. At this point it will be well to pour boiling water over the flats of soil. This will kill any insect or plant life that might trouble us later. On the next day the soil will probably be in good condition for planting. Smooth the top and mark out with the edge of a board the necessary tiny drills or trenches in which the seed is to go. These need not be over two inches apart but should run the whole length or width of the flat. If but one or two kinds of seed are used in the flat, it may be more convenient to broadcast it rather than sowing in drills, although it seems to be easier when transplanting to take the little seed- lings from a drill. It is a general principle that seeds sown indoors in flats should be covered by a depth of soil equal to Solving, Tfansplanting and Culture 23 once or twice their diameter. Without attempting the microscopic task of measuring the diameter of the small seeds, it will be found satisfactory to put these on top of the soil, pressing them into it with a tlat board and then sifting a very little soil over them. Some seeds need soaking over night in warm water ni order to hasten germination. Some, like moon- flower, are extremely slow in germinating, unless the lieavy shell of the seed is nicked with a file. Some, like nicotiana, need even more elaborate preparation. After the seeds are sown, the flat should be given a thorough watering. The sprinkling of water over the top from a watering-pot would be fatal, washing the seeds out of their places and playing general havoc with the careful work that has been done. However, a covering of burlap or bagging over the flat will break the force of the stream and secure a fairly even saturation. By far the best way, however, is to stand the whole flat in the bottom of a wash-tub or other receptacle, so that it may soak up water from the bottom. Allow it to stand in the water until the top appears moist. Then allow it to go unwatered until the top seems fairly dry. Too frequent water- ing tends to keep the soil wet rather than in the moist condition that is best for germination of the seeds and early growth. Covering the flats with glass for a day or so in the sun will hasten the germination of the seeds if they have been started late. Otherwise it is just as well to let them come along as they will. 24 The Book of Annuals One great difficulty in raising the seedlings in fiats is that they are liable to become spindling, the re- sult of forcing in a warm and not entirely congenial atmosphere. It would be well to keep the flats in a room that does not get too much artificial heat. Flats of very sturdy little seedlings have been raised behind a window in a cool attic, where they have gotten the benefit of the sun and none of the harm that comes from superheated rooms. The coldframe naturally is a better place still, and it is in such a place that seedlings will attain the sturdiest growth. If the seedlings show their second true leaves before the weather has become settled enough to transplant them to their permanent quarters, they should be taken out of the flats and put into pots, old berry- boxes or paper pots. In transplanting the seedlings, either to flats, pots or outdoors, lift a portion of a row with a trowel, taking the soil to the full depth of the box and then break off small pieces containing individual plants. AVith what is known as a ' " dibber" or "dibble" — a short length of broomstick pointed at one end — a hole is made in the new location. Tak- ing the little plant by the stem, it is lowered into this hole until all the roots and half its stem are under the surface. The dibble is then put in again an inch away from the hole and moved towards the plant so as to close up the opening in which it is held. After transplanting the seedlings, whetlier to an indoor location or outside, keep the plants from the sun for two or three days. Sowing, Transplanting and Culture 25 It is said that annuals will grow in practically any soil. If this is true it is no reason why we should attempt to grow them that way. The results are sure to be disappointing. The border or bed in which the annuals are to grow should be spaded over to the depth of a foot — one full "spit" (the depth of a spade blade) and another short one below it. After the soil has been thoroughly broken up it should have mixed with it a quantity of old well-rotted manure. Fresh, "green" manure is far worse than useless; it is completely destructive to plant life. If the soil shows a tendency to stickiness, it is over-balanced on the clay side and needs, in addition to the manure, some sand. The best soil for annuals should be such that when a handful is taken from beneath the surface and squeezed, it will, when released, partly crumble apart. Clayey soil remains in a sticky ball; soil that is too sandy falls entirely apart too quickly. The seeds should be sown outdoors somewhat deeper than in flats— three to four diameters under the sur- face — and it is always well to sift over the soil, after the seed is planted, a light covering of sand or sandy soil, Avhich will help to prevent the ground from bak- ing and forming a crust. Watering is a simple enough procedure, yet it is probably one of the most common sources of trouble in the garden of annuals. A light sprinkling daily does more harm than good. The ground should be thoroughly soaked, say once a week. If water is con- veyed to it by means of a hose, take off the nozzle and 26 The Book of Anmials leave the hose on the ground to flood the border or bed with as much as it will readily absorb. If this is done at night, give the surface of the soil a mulch in the morning by breaking up the top crust as finely as possible. This "dust" mulch should be created after every rain and after every watering. It is in this way only that the moisture that is put into the ground can be retained there for the use of the plants. As soon as the surface of the soil is allowed to form a crust the water is drawn out by evaporation through capillary attraction and lost to the garden. The necessity for weeding a garden has become so firmly implanted in the Anglo-Saxon mind that it seems hardly necessary to dwell upon it here. It is just as essential to keep weeds out of the flower gar- den as out of the vegetable garden, and the task is undoubtedly harder in the former case because of the more complicated grouping and the absence of rows. The only plan of action that will lead to the ideal garden is to keep the weeds out from the earliest stages of growth. If they are kept down at the first, when the annuals themselves are developing their strength, they will be far easier to keep down later when the flowers are better able to hold their own. There are few garden pests that will cause annoy- ance in the garden of annuals. First of all, there are the aphids, the most common of the great class of sucking insects. They are tiny green things that may be seen clustered around a soft stem, sucking the juice from it. If they seem to be very thick on the Sowing, T lansplantiug and Culture 27 plants tliey may be put out of the figlit by a spraying of hot soapsuds — use lialf a cake of Ivory or common hiundry soaj) churned up until dissolved in eight gallons of hot water. Then there are various insects of the eating class — the beetles, etc. These are perhaps most easily dis- posed of by knocking them otf the plants into a can of kerosene. If they appear in such large numbers that tills method seems impractical, sprinkle powdered hel- lebore on the foliage in the early morning when the dew is on the plants, or after a shower. A powder gun will do this work much more elfectively than it can be done by merely shaking the powder over the plants, as with a gun it may be gotten on the under side of the leaves where the insects are most likely to be found. The Book of Annuals 29 AFRICAN DAISY Arctotis grandis A plant that should be given plenty of room on account of its rather sprawling manner of growth. Stake, if grown near smaller plants. Sow seeds outdoors April fifteenth, or start them in flats indoors April first and transplant to the border in May. Color: white petals, lilac on the under side; center dull blue with yellow outside circle. Height: two and a half feet, branching. Period of Bloom : July through early frosts. Location : rich loam ; sun. The Book of Annuals 31 *AGERATUM (FLOSS FLOWER) Agcratum conyzoides One of the best annuals for edging the beds. Sow seeds indoors about March fifteenth, trans- planting after IMay twenty-fifth ; or sow seeds out- doors after danger of frost. A sowing in September will give plants that may be potted and brought into bloom indoors. Color : blue or white, or varying to rose. Height : one foot, ratlier loose growth, except in some dwarf and compact forms. Period of Bloom : July 15 to frost. Location : any garden soil ; any exposure. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^■^ ^^^ ^^^1 ^^^^p•^%^ > ^''^I^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^M^^ • /,^^^^^^^^^^^^^| ^^^^^^^^■^ib_- :Jr^ M» ^HBk ■«* «^ 1 r k fr i ^ ► r ■ iP'^J -*■' J F r R: > 1 ( 1 k-tJ IC^' K p^ ^ it' % n^ OR L s xB k The Booh of Anmials 83 * MORNING-GLORY Ipomoea purpurea One of the least exacting- and most versatile of all garden plants. Like its sister the moonflower, the morning-glory is a quick-growing vine of the greatest service in covering arbors or for screening. Nick the seeds with a file, and the vines should bloom in six weeks from sowing (outdoors in May, after danger of frost is past). Give plenty of water. Color : various. Height : four to ten feet. Period of Bloom : July to September. Location : strong soil ; sun. The Booh of Annuals 85 * NASTURTIUM TropcBoluni ma jus and minus Majus is the climbing nasturtium, useful for cov- ering banks or walls, or in the window-box. Minus is the dwarf variety — the Tom Thumbs, etc. — that is so deservedly popular for edging the border, not only for its flowers but for the leaves, which are among the most beautiful of all plants. To some people the variegated-leaf forms will appeal. Sow seeds outdoors in May. If the plants bloom sparingly, pinch off leaves to induce flower growth. Color : shades of yellow and orange. Height: majus, climbing; minus, six inches. Period of Bloom: late June through early frosts. Location : warm, sunny, fairly moist soil. TJie Booh of A)niiials 87 NICOTIANA Nicotian a alata (or a/finis) The tobacco plant, valued in the flower garden for its rapid growth, large foliage and fragrant night- opening flowers. In Middle States and South it maintains itself from year to year. The seed is too small to germinate readily in or- dinary soil : sprout it by spreading on a thin cloth over a pan of water that is kept continually warm. Then plant indoors in flats, setting out the plants in IMay. Fertilize with wood ashes. Color : white. Height : two to three and a half feet. Period of Bloom : July and August. Location: rich, loose, deep, well-drained soil; sun, protected from winds, or partial shade. The Book of Annuals 89 * PANSY Viola tricolor One of the oldest of the garden flowers and one of the most popular. The plant loves a cool moist climate, which fact explains the dwindling of size and amount of bloom in our hot, dry summers. Keep foliage and ground sprinkled frequently for best results. Start seeds in coldframe in August for next spring's bloom; or purchase plants from the florist. Color : various. Height: six inches. Period of Bloom : all summer. Location: rich, clayey soil; morning sun, partial shade; sheltered. The Book of Annuals 91 * PETUNIA Petunia JujbrifJa A plant of the easiest culture and of most profuse bloom. Its only faults are its tendency towards weed- iuess and the gai-ish colors of the common strains. Choose selected named varieties. Of the double- tlowered sorts, only a quarter of the bloom will be double flowers— usually borne on the plants that were the weaker seedlings. Sow seeds indoors Ai)ril first and set out the plants early in May. Or, sow outdoors in May. Color: white to light purple; and striped. Height : two feet. Period of Bloom : July to frost. Location : any garden soil ; open sun. The Book of Annuals 93 * PHLOX (Annual) Phlox Drummondii A plant originating in Texas about 1835, which was at once heralded with enthusiasm in England, and which has become one of the most popular annuals here. Sow seed where plants are desired, and thin seed- lings to one foot apart. Give the plants food and moisture to prolong bloom through the summer. Color: various shades of pink and red, also white. Height: six to eighteen inches. Period of Bloom : late July through early frosts. Location : good, light garden soil ; sun or partial shade. The Book of Annuals 95 *PINK (CHINESE) Dianthus Chinensis, var. Hedewigi Single and double flowers of many vivid colors and bizarre markings, but scentless. Sow seeds where plants are desired, or, better, start them indoors April first and transplant, six to eight inches apart, outdoors in May. The plant is a biennial and will bloom more pro- fusely and earlier the second year if given a dry sheltered spot. Color .- pinks, reds, etc. Height: ten to sixteen inches. Period op Bloom : late July through early frosts. Location : dry, sheltered ; sun. The Book of Annuals 97 * POPPY (SHIRLEY) Papaver Rhceas The best strain, for America, of the famous corn poppy of Europe. An Englisli amateur gardener, Rev, W. Wilks, in 1880, developed the Shirley from a solitary flower showing a narrow edge of white. The flowers are always single and show the most won- derful silky texture in every imaginable combination of white, pink and red, with yellow anthers. Sow seed in fall if possible, also early in spring and monthly thereafter until July. The seedlings are transplanted only with some risk. Thin the seedlings to four or six inches apart. Color : pinks and reds. Height : two to three feet. Period of Bloom : fall-sown, June to August ; spring- sown, July to September. Location : any good garden soil ; sun. The Book of Aiiuuals 99 PORTULACA Portulaca grandi flora Known also as rose moss, and related to the com- mon weed of sandy soils — purslane. Of tlie easiest culture in a hot, dry location. Good for edging and in dry parts of rock gardens. The display of color is brilliant on sunny days only. In some places the plant self-sows — the reason for its persistence in old gardens. Sow seeds in corn-planting time (May 15), where plants are desired, and thin to ten or twelve inches apart. Color : white to yellow, rose, red, purplish and striped. Height : six to ten inches. Period of Bloom : July to frost. Location : hot, dry soil ; full sun. The Book of Annuals 101 SALPIGLOSSIS Salpiglossis sinuata "Painted tongue," remarkable for its large, long stemmed, funnel-shaped flowers of varied coloring. Sow seeds indoors about the middle of ]\Iarch and see that plants do not become stunted before trans- planting. Or, sow outdoors in May. Color : purples and blues through reds and yellows to cream, usually marbled and penciled. Height: eighteen inches. Period op Bloom : late June to frost. Location : deep, light, rich soil, not liable to sudden extremes of moisture or drought; sun. The Book of Annuals 103 *SCABIOSA (MOURNING BRIDE) Scabiosa atropurpurea One of the best of the annuals, though apparently little known. The variety having black-purple flowers is one of the darkest and richest flowering plants. All the varieties have fairly long stems and keep well in water. Sow seeds indoors April first to transplant in May one foot apart; or sow outdoors in May after danger of frost is past. Color: white, pink, crimson, lavender, purple, violet and bi-colored. Height: eighteen to thirty inches. Period of Bloom : early July to frost. Location : any good garden soil ; sun. The Bool: of Annuals 105 ♦SCARLET SAGE Salvia splendens One of the most brilliant red-flowered bedding plants in cultivation. Its showiness and ease of cul- ture have caused it to be used without restraint. Al- though it does best in full sun, it is of greater value to the gardener in brightening half-shaded spots in the foreground of trees or shrubs. Sow seed of an early-blooming and compact strain in a frame or indoors early, so as to get good plants to set out in May. Color: scarlet. Height: two feet. Period of Bloom : July 15 to frost. Location : deep rich soil ; sun or partial shade. ^ V-- ,'- The Book of Annuals 107 SCHIZANTHUS Schizanthus pinnatus The "butterfly flower," an annual herb from Chile. There are several interesting sorts bearing flowers of various brilliant markings. Sow seeds outdoors where plants are to bloom, and thin to give each seedling a space one foot in diameter. Transplanting is done at some risk. Stake the plants, unless the location is well shel- tered from winds. Color : white, violet and lilac with yellow. Height : two feet, branching. Period of Bloom : July to frost. Location : any good soil, sheltered ; sun. T]ie Book of Annuals 109 SNAPDRAGON Antirrhinum majus In reality a perennial, but seeds sown very early in the spring give flowers the first year. Then, too, the first crop of bloom is usually the only one wortli while. There are dwarf varieties for use as edgings, also double forms. For early bloom sow the seeds in frames in August or September, mulching the young plants for winter protection. Or, sow the seeds as early as possible in the spring, in a frame if possible. With winter protection the plant may be carried over, but the second year's bloom may be of another color. Color : ranging from red and purple to white. Height: one to three feet. Period of Bloom : August to frost. Location : light, rich soil ; full sun. The Book of Annuals 111 SNOW-ON-THE-MOUNT Euphorbia marginata A particularly useful foliage plant for the gar- dener who realizes that the success of a garden does not depend entirely on the flowers. The leaves are margined with white, some of them being white all over. As a background for some strong red-flowering plant, euphorbia would be very effective. In the illus- tration it is shown as a foil for marigolds in a flower arrangement. Start seeds indoors, preferably, to secure a longer season, setting out plants in early ]\Tay. Color: (of foliage) light green margined with white. Height: two feet; erect and not spreading. Period of Bloom : flowers inconspicuous. Location : any good soil ; sun. Tlie Book of A)niuals 113 * STOCK (TEN WEEKS) Matthiola incana, var. annua The name comes from the fact that the plant blooms in ten weeks from seed. Another name for it is ■■gillyflower/' a corruption of July-flower. Most of tlie sorts are double clusters of small fragrant flowers at the top of an erect stiff stem. Sow seed through IMarch or early in April in a moderately warm hotbed, transplanting at the end of INIay, on a cloudy day, into the border. By successive sowings, one can have stocks in bloom throughout the summer. Color : white, through rose, crimson, purple and parti-colored. Height : one to two feet. Period of Bloom: Julj^ to frost (with successive sowing) . Location : rich, sandy loam ; sun. The Book of Anmuds 115 SUMMER CYPRESS Kochia scoparia A little-known plant that may be used to great ad- vantage to take the place of small clipped evergreens in the annual garden. The growth is erect, stiff and pyramidal — excellent qualifications for the corners of formal beds or to flank the ends of a walk. The foliage is light green nntil September, when it turns a rich crimson. The plant dies two weeks after pro- ducing its countless number of minute flowers. In the illustration it is shown used as a border. Sow seeds indoors in April or in the open May first. Color : (foliage) light green turning to crimson. Height: two to two and a half feet. Period op Bloom : flowers inconspicuous. Location: clayey soil; sun. The Book of Anmials 117 SUNFLOWER Helianthus annuus Too coarse for a location near the house, but ex- cellent at the back of a distant border in masses. Give plenty of room — a diameter of three feet to a plant — as the sunflower is a gross feeder. The plant is ideal for the chicken yard, furnishing a little shade and food that is relished. Sow seeds where they are to grow in April or May, or, better still, start them indoors in March, setting out the plants in May after danger of frost is past. Color : yellow. Height : three to twelve feet. Period of Bloom : August to frost. Location : any, but best is light, rich soil with mois- ture : full sun. The Book of Auuuals 119 * SWEET ALYSSUM Alyssum maritimum Undoubtedly the most popular of all the edging plants, largely because of the long season of bloom and ease of culture. Its light green foliage and sweet- scented abundant bloom are practically indispensable in the annual garden. Avoid the straight line of plants in the edging— sowing a drift here and there that extends back between higher plants. Sow seeds early— April first— where the plants are desired. Pinch off the bloom and foliage stems from time to time to induce continued flowering. Color: white. Height: four to six inches. Period op Bloom : June through early frosts. Location : any good garden soil, best in sandy loam ; sun. The Book of Annuals 121 * SWEET PEA Lathy r us odoratus The sweet pea should have, and is well worthy of, a generous portion of the garden to itself. Cultivate the soil deeply, above all things, and in- sure abundant moisture. Train the vines on brush, preferably, to prevent their burning, but wire mesh will serve and is more sightly and durable. Sow seeds in March (except white-seeded varieties, which should go in in April ) an inch apart in a trench eight inches deep, on fine soil, covering with an inch of soil and gradually filling in trench as seedlings ap- pear and increase in li eight. A very common mistake is sowing too thick. Expert growers thin seedlings to six inches apart. Constant cutting insures the maximum of bloom. Give plenty of water. Color : various. Height : five to six feet. Period of Bloom : July to September. Location : moderately rich and deeply worked soil ; open sun. The Book of Annuals 123 * SWEET SULTAN Centaurea moschata A straight-growing annual that is valuable chiefly for the large, fragrant flower-heads. Being a centau- rea, it is closely allied to the cornflower {Centaurea cijanus), but the longer stems make it a better flower for cutting. In the illiLstration the large sharp-petalled heads are the sweet sultans; the others are the cyanus va- riety — ragged sailor, cornflower or bachelor's button, as it is called — which are less improved horticultur- ally. Start seed indoors early in April and set plants out in May. Or, sow seed outdoors in ]\Iay. It is better, however, to get an early start so as to enable the plant to perfect its flowers before very hot weather. Color : white, yellow or purple. Height: two feet. Period of Bloom : June, tlu^ough August. Location : any good garden soil ; sun. The Book of Amiuals 125 VERBENA Verbena (various species) Another of the time-honored plants from our grand- mothers' gardens. One of its good properties lies in the fact that after blooming all summer it may be cut back, given a rest, then forced into bloom again as a house plant. The white-flowering varieties are said to be the more fragrant. Start seeds indoors in March in a flat or in a flower-pot on the window-sill. Or, plants may usu- ally be bought from the florist, to set out early in May. Color : white through lilac and rose to purplish blue ; also yellow. Height: two feet. Period op Bloom : early July through first frosts. Location: rich soil, better moist; sun or partial shade. m The Bool' of Auuuals 127 * ZINNIA Zinnia elegans A rather stiff, formal plant, in bad repute with some gardeners because of its magenta varieties. Used in- telligently, from named varieties in good colors, it ranks with the best annuals, and even approaches the dahlia in perfection of form. Sow seeds about ]\Iay first and thin plants out to a foot or two apart, depending upon whether the dwarf or tall sorts are used. Color : white, yellow, orange, scarlet, rose, purple, etc. Height : six inches to two and a half feet. Period of Bloom : July to frost. Location : deep, rich soil ; sun. MAY 1 J9J3