TX 719 
 1836 
 
 8 ■ 
 
 mm 
 
 mmMM 
 
DOMESTIC 
 
 FRENCH COOKERY, 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM SULPICE BARUEL 
 
 BY MISS LESLIE, 
 AUTHOR OF "SEVENTY-FIVE RECEIPTS," &C. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION. 
 
 EDUatreljj&ia: 
 CAREY & HART— CHESTNUT STREET. 
 
 1336. 
 

 irt 
 
 I 
 
 Entered according to the Act of Congress, the 25th day of 
 
 October, 1832, by 
 
 E. L, Carey & A. Hart, 
 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern Dis- 
 trict of Pennsylvania. 
 
 pfJfCJL 
 
 11 &1h3 
 
 STEREOTYPED BY J. HOWE. 
 
/ <£<£- 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 7o 
 
 The design of the following little book is to 
 furnish receipts for a select variety of French 
 dishes, explained and described in such a manner 
 as to make them intelligible to American cooks, 
 and practicable with American utensils and Amer- 
 ican fuel. Those that (according to the original 
 work) cannot be prepared without an unusual and 
 foreign apparatus have been omitted ; and also 
 such as can only be accomplished by the consum- 
 mate skill and long practice of native French 
 cooks. 
 
 Many dishes have been left out, as useless in a 
 country where provisions are abundant. On this 
 side of the Atlantic all persons in respectable life 
 can obtain better articles of food than sheeps' 
 tails, calves' ears, &c. and the preparation of 
 these articles (according to the European re- 
 ceipts) is too tedious and complicated to be of any 
 use to the indigent, or to those who can spare but 
 little time for their cookery. 
 
 Also, the translator has inserted no receipts 
 which contain nothing different from the usual 
 American mode of preparing the same dishes. 
 
 Most of the French Cookery Books introduced 
 into this country have failed in their object, from 
 the evident deficiency of the translators in a com- 
 
IV PREFACE. 
 
 petent knowledge of the technical terms of cookery 
 and from the multitude of French words inter- 
 spersed through the directions, and which cannot, 
 in general, be comprehended without an incessant 
 and troublesome reference to the glossary. 
 
 The translator of the following pages has en- 
 deavored, according to the best of her ability, to 
 avoid these defects, and has aimed at making a 
 book of practical utility to all those who may 
 have a desire to introduce occasionally at their 
 tables good specimens of the French culinary art. 
 
 From these receipts she believes that many 
 advantageous hints may be taken for improve- 
 ments in American cookery; and she hopes that, 
 upon trial, this little work may be found equally 
 useful in private families, hotels, and boarding- 
 houses, 
 
 Philadelphia, September, 1832. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 SOUPS. 
 
 Beef Soup rzgeU 
 
 Consomme, or Jelly Soup * 4 
 
 Pease Soup • 
 
 Maccaroni Soup 1 ' 
 
 Chestnut Soup ™ 
 
 Almond Soup 
 
 Lobster Soup 1 ' 
 
 Oyster Soup . b 
 
 Green Peas Soup * 
 
 GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. 
 
 17 
 Brown Gravy 
 
 White Gravy *• 
 
 Essence of Game "' 
 
 To Clarify Gravies or Essences 1° 
 
 Veloute, or Velvet Essence ib - 
 
 SAUCES, &c. 
 
 19 
 Bechamel 
 
 Another Bechamel 
 
 Drawn Butter * b ' 
 
 Melted Butter, another way *" 
 
 Cold Sauce for Fish *• 
 
 Sauce for Vegetables lb - 
 
 Pungent Sauce, or Sauce Piquante • • ** 
 
 Anchovy Sauce ' 
 
 Curry Sauce ■ *J 
 
 Tomata Sauce x ' 
 
 Cucumber Sauce ' 
 
 Bread Sauce 
 
 Sauce Robert " ' 
 
 Shalot or Onion Sauce 
 
 Universal Sauce 
 
 Lobster Sauce 
 
 Spinach for coloring Green 
 
 Garlic Butter lb 
 
 A2 
 
VI CONTENTS. 
 
 Hazlenut Butter 24 
 
 Larding lb. 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 Veal a la Mode 29 
 
 Veal Cutlets ib. 
 
 Blanquette, or Fricassee of Veal 30 
 
 Godiveau , ib- 
 
 Calves' Liver baked ib. 
 
 Calves' Liver fried 31 
 
 Veal Kidneys ib. 
 
 Grillades ib. 
 
 Liver Cake 32 
 
 Sirloin of Beef. ib. 
 
 Stewed Beef ib. 
 
 Beef Steaks 33 
 
 Beef a la Mode ib. 
 
 Roasted Ham 34 
 
 Fried Ham with Tomatas 35 
 
 Roasted Tongue ib. 
 
 Baked Tongue 36 
 
 Potted Tongue ib. 
 
 Leg of Mutton with Oysters 37 
 
 Cutlets a la Maintenon ib. 
 
 Pork Cutlets ib. 
 
 Larded Rabbit 38 
 
 Rabbits in Papers ib. 
 
 Pilau ? ib. 
 
 Veal Sweetbreads 39 
 
 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 A Salmi 43 
 
 Cold Salmi ib. 
 
 Ragooed Livers 44 
 
 A fine Hash ib. 
 
 Marinade of Fowls ib. 
 
 Fricassee of Fowls 45 
 
 Fowls with Tarragon io. 
 
 A stewed Fowl 46 
 
 Chickens in Jelly ib. 
 
 Pulled Chickens 47 
 
 Stewed Turkey, or Turkey en Daube - . 48 
 
 Roasted Turkey. ... 1 ib. 
 
CONTENTS. Vii 
 
 Potted Goose 49 
 
 Ducks with Turnips 50 
 
 A Duck with Olives ib. 
 
 A Duck with Peas ib. 
 
 Turkey Puddings 51 
 
 Baked Pigeons, or Pigeons a la Crapaudine ib. 
 
 Broiled Pigeons. 52 
 
 Pigeons Pear-fashion (Pigeons au poire) ib. 
 
 Pigeons with Peas ib. 
 
 Roasted Partridges 53 
 
 Partridges with Cabbage ib. 
 
 A Partridge Pie ib. 
 
 Roasted Pheasants 54 
 
 Broiled Quails 55 
 
 Roasted Plovers ib. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Stewed Salmon .' 59 
 
 Roasted Salmon ib. 
 
 Broiled Salmon 60 
 
 Salt Cod Fish ib. 
 
 Broiled Fresh Mackerel 61 
 
 Broiled Fresh Shad ib. 
 
 Hashed Fish ib. 
 
 Lobster Pie 62 
 
 Oyster Loaves ib. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Stewed Lettuce 65 
 
 Stewed Spinach ib. 
 
 Stewed Cucumbers 66 
 
 Stewed Beets ib. 
 
 Stewed Carrots ib. 
 
 Stewed Cabbage ib. 
 
 Stewed Peas 67 
 
 Stewed Beans ib. 
 
 Stewed Onions 68 
 
 Onions stewed in Wine ib. 
 
 Stewed Mushrooms ib. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes 69 
 
 Stewed Potatoes with Turnips ib 
 
 Asparagus with Cream ib 
 
 Potatoes stewed whole 70 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 Fried Potatoes 70 
 
 Fried Cauliflower ib. 
 
 Fried Celery 71 
 
 Broiled Mushrooms ib. 
 
 Stuffed Cabbage (Choux farcis) 72 
 
 Stuffed Potatoes ib. 
 
 Stuffed Cucumbers 73 
 
 Stuffed Tomatas ib. 
 
 Cauliflowers with Cheese 74 
 
 Ragooed Cabbage ib. 
 
 Ragooed Mushrooms 75 
 
 PUREES. 
 
 Puree of Turnips , 76 
 
 Puree of Celery ib. 
 
 Puree of Onions ib. 
 
 Puree of Mushrooms 77 
 
 Puree of Beans ib. 
 
 Puree of Green Peas 78 
 
 EGGS, &c. 
 
 Boiled eggs 79 
 
 Fried Eggs - ib. 
 
 Stewed Eggs 80 
 
 Stuffed Eggs ib. 
 
 Egg Snow ib. 
 
 Pancakes 81 
 
 Omelets ib. 
 
 Maccaroni 82 
 
 Maccaroni Pie ib. 
 
 Blancmange in Eggs 83 
 
 PASTRY, CAKES, &c. 
 
 French Cakes 87 
 
 Puff-Paste ib. 
 
 Cream Tarts 88 
 
 Almond Tarts ib. 
 
 Rissoles 89 
 
 Almond Custards ib 
 
 Vanilla Custards ib. 
 
 Chocolate Custards 90 
 
 Coffee Custards ib 
 
CONTENTS. IX 
 
 Tea Custards 91 
 
 Rice Pottage ib. 
 
 Apple Fritters ib. 
 
 Bread Fritters 92 
 
 Rice Cake ib. 
 
 Potato Cake 93 
 
 Sponge Cake, or Biscuit ib. 
 
 Croquettes 94 
 
 Marguerites - ib. 
 
 Wafers 95 
 
 Gingerbread 96 
 
 PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c. 
 
 An Apple Charlotte 99 
 
 Apple Compote ib. 
 
 Compote of Pears 100 
 
 Compote of Chestnuts ib. 
 
 Fried Apples 101 
 
 Peach Marmalade ib. 
 
 Brandy Peaches ib. 
 
 Gooseberry Pottage 102 
 
 Fruit Jellies 103 
 
 Preserved Pumpkin 104 
 
 Preserved Raspberries ib. 
 
 Orange Jelly 105 
 
 Clarified Sugar ib. 
 
 Fruit in Sugar Coats 106 
 
 Burnt Almonds ib. 
 
 Peppermint Drops 107 
 
 Chocolate Drops ib 
 
 Nougat 108 
 
 Orgeat Paste 109 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 Noyau 110 
 
 Raspberry Cordial ib. 
 
 Rose Cordial Ill 
 
 Quince Cordial ib. 
 
 Lemon Cordial ib. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 French Coffee 115 
 
 without boiling ib. 
 
X CONTENTS. 
 
 Chocolate 116 
 
 Fine Lemonade 117 
 
 Punch ib, 
 
 Convenient Lemonade ib. 
 
 French Mustard 118 
 
 Potato Flour ib. 
 
 Cold Pickles ib. 
 
 Cormchons or Cucumber Pickles 119 
 
 Fine Cologne Water 120 
 
PART THE FIRST. 
 
SOUPS. 
 
 BEEF SOUP. 
 
 The best soup is made of the lean of fine fresh 
 beef. The proportion is four pounds of meat to a 
 gallon of water. It should boil at least six hours. 
 Mutton soup may be made in the same manner. 
 
 Put the meat into cold water, with a little salt ; 
 set it over a good fire ; let it boil slowly but con- 
 stantly, and skim it well. When no more fat rises 
 to the top, put in what quantity you please of car- 
 rots, turnips, leeks, celery, and parsley, all cut into 
 small pieces ; add, if you choose, a laurel-leaf, or 
 two or three peach-leaves, a few cloves, and a large 
 burnt onion, to heighten the color of the soup. 
 Grate a large red carrot, and strew it over the top. 
 Then continue to let it boil, gently but steadily, till 
 dinner time. Next to the quantity and quality of 
 the meat, nothing is more necessary to the excel- 
 lence of soup than to keep the fire moderate, and 
 to see that it is boiling all the time, but not too fast. 
 
 Have ready in the tureen some toasted bread, 
 cut into small squares; pour the soup over the 
 bread, passing it through a sieve, so as to strain it 
 thoroughly. Some, however, prefer serving it up 
 with all the vegetables in it. 
 
 The soup will be improved by boiling in it the 
 remains of a piece of cold roast beef. Soups made 
 of veal, chickens, &c. are only fit for invalids. 
 
 After you have strained out the vegetables, you 
 may put into the soup some vermicelli (allowing 
 two ounces to each quart), and then boil it ten 
 minutes longer. 
 
 B 
 
14 soups. 
 
 CONSOMME, OR JELLY SOUP. 
 
 Into two quarts of cold water, put four pounds 
 of the lean of the best beef-steaks, and a large fowl 
 cut into pieces, four large carrots, four onions, four 
 leeks, a bunch of sweet herbs (parsley, thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and chives), tied up 
 with a laurel-leaf, or two peach-leaves, and four 
 cloves ; add a little salt and pepper. Boil it gently 
 for eight hours, skimming it well ; then strain it. 
 
 PEASE SOUP. 
 
 Take two quarts of dried split peas, the evening 
 before you intend making the soup, and putting 
 them into lukewarm water, let them soak all night. 
 in the morning, put the peas into a pan or pot with 
 three quarts of cold water, a pound of bacon, and 
 a pound of the lean of fresh beef. Cut up two car- 
 rots, two onions, and two heads of celery, and put 
 them into the soup, with a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and three or four cloves. Boil it slowly five or six 
 hours, till the peas can no longer be distinguished, 
 having lost all shape and form ; then strain it, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 MACCARONI SOUP. 
 
 First make some good beef soup (without any 
 vegetables), and when it is sufficiently boiled, strain 
 it through a sieve. Take some maccaroni, in the 
 proportion of half a pound to two quarts of soup. 
 Boil it in water until it is tender, adding to it a 
 little butter. Then lay it on a sieve to drain, and 
 cut it into small pieces. Throw it into the soup, 
 and boil all together ten minutes or more. Grate 
 some rich cheese over it before you send it to 
 table. 
 
soups. 15 
 
 CHESTNUT SOUP. 
 
 Having made some beef soup without vegetables, 
 strain it, and put in a pint of peeled chestnuts for 
 each' quart of soup. Boil it again till the chestnuts 
 have gone all to pieces, and have become a part 
 of the liquid. 
 
 A still better way is, to roast or bake the chest- 
 nuts first, (having cut a slit in the shell of each,) 
 then peel them, and throw them into the soup ten 
 minutes before you take it from the fire. 
 
 ALMOND SOUP. 
 
 Take half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and 
 two ounces of shelled bitter almonds, or peach- 
 kernels. Scald them, to make the skins peel oft" 
 easily, and when they are blanched, throw them 
 into cold water. Then drain and wipe them dry. 
 Beat them (a few at a time) in a marble mortar, 
 adding as you beat them, a little milk and a little 
 grated lemon-peel. 
 
 Have ready two quarts of rich milk, boiled with 
 two sticks of cinnamon and a quarter of a pound 
 of sugar. Stir the almonds gradually into the milk, 
 and let them have one boil up. Prepare some slices 
 of toasted bread, take out a little of the soup and 
 soak them in it. Then lay them in the bottom of a 
 tureen, and pour the soup over them. Grate on 
 some nutmeg. 
 
 LOBSTER SOUP. 
 
 Having boiled a large lobster, extract all the 
 meat from the shell. Fry in butter some thin 
 slices of bread, put them into a marble mortar, one 
 at a time, alternately with some of the meat of the 
 lobster, and pound the whole to a paste till it is all 
 
16 soups. 
 
 done. Then melt some butter in a stew-pan, and 
 put in the mixed bread and lobster. Add a quart 
 of boiling milk, with salt, mace, and nutmeg to 
 your taste. Let the whole stew gently for half an 
 hour. 
 
 OYSTER SOUP. 
 
 Take two quarts of oysters; drain them, and 
 cut out the hard part. Have ready a dozen eggs, 
 boiled hard ; cut them in pieces, and pound them 
 in a mortar alternately with the oysters. Boil the 
 liquor of the oysters with a head of celery cut 
 small, two grated nutmegs, a tea-spoonful of mace, 
 and a tea-spoonful of cloves, with two tea-spoon- 
 fuls of salt, and a tea-spoonful of whole pepper. 
 When the liquor has boiled, stir in the pounded 
 eggs and oysters, a little at a time. Give it one 
 more boil, and then serve it up. 
 
 Salt oysters will not do for soup. 
 
 GREEN PEAS SOUP. 
 
 Make a good beef soup, with the proportion of 
 our pounds of lean beef to a gallon of water. Boil 
 it slowly, and skim it well. In another pot boil 
 two quarts of green peas, with a large bunch of 
 mint, a little salt, and three or four lumps of loaf 
 sugar. When they are quite soft, take them out, 
 strain them from the water, and mash them in a 
 cullender till all the pulp drips through. Then stir 
 it into the soup after you have taken it up and 
 strained it. Prepare some toasted bread cut into 
 small squares, lay it in a tureen, and pour the soup 
 over it. 
 
 When you toast bread for soups, stews, &c. 
 always cut off the crust. 
 
GRAVIES. 17 
 
 GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. 
 
 BROWN GRAVY. (Jus.) 
 
 . Put into a sauce-pan, or skillet, five or six onions, 
 and as many carrots cut into small pieces, with 
 about two pounds of scraps of beef, in which 
 there must be none of the fat. Pour over them 
 a pint of water. Cover the pan, and begin with 
 a brisk fire. When the gravy has become brown, 
 add a little boiling water (or broth if you have 
 it), with a tea-spoonful of salt, three or four 
 cloves, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Diminish 
 the fire, and let the gravy stew gently for an hour 
 and a half. Occasionally prick the meat with a 
 fork, and press it with the back of a spoon to ex- 
 tract its juices. Then strain it through a sieve, 
 and let it stand a while before you use it. 
 
 In addition to the beef, you may put in pieces of 
 cold goose, or cold duck. 
 
 WHITE GRAVY. (Coulis.) 
 
 Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan, and put in 
 two pounds of scraps of veal, and, if you have 
 it at hand, some cold fowl, or cold turkey; add 
 two white onions, and four or five blades of mace ; 
 pour over it a pint of boiling water, or broth ; 
 cover the pan, and set it over a slow fire for five 
 or six hours, pricking and pressing the meat with 
 a fork and spoon. Strain it through a sieve, and 
 if it is too thin, set it again over the fire, to stew 
 a while longer. 
 
 ESSENCE OF GAME. 
 
 Take scraps of any kind of game (partridges, 
 pheasants, hares, &c), and also four calves feet, 
 B2 
 
18 GRAVIES. 
 
 and a few small pieces of ham. Put them all into 
 a stew-pan, with half a bottle of white wine, two 
 carrots, two onions, and a bunch of sweet herbs. 
 Stew them over a slow fire for four hours, and 
 when they are reduced to a jelly, moisten it with 
 four table-spoonfuls of hot water, or broth, stirred 
 in gently. Strain it through a sieve, and then clear 
 it by stirring in the whites of three eggs slightly 
 beaten. 
 
 TO CLARIFY GRAVIES, OR ESSENCES. 
 
 Having strained your gravy through a sieve, 
 beat slightly the whites of three eggs, and stir them 
 into it. Place it again on the fire, and stir it till it 
 comes to a boil ; then take it from the fire, and put 
 it away to settle. Strain it then through a napkin, 
 and you will have a transparent jelly excellent for 
 making fine sauces. 
 
 veloute\ or velvet essence. 
 
 Take half a pound of scraps of veal, the same 
 quantity of pieces of fowls, and twelve or fifteen 
 mushrooms ; stew them slowly in butter, and then 
 add two onions, half a carrot, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs cut small, three table-spoonfuls of flour, three 
 of boiling water or broth, and salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg to your taste. Let it stew an hour and a 
 half, and then strain it 
 
SAUCES. 19 
 
 SAUCES, &c. 
 
 When sauces are finished with eggs, use only 
 the yolks, and mix them first with but a spoonful 
 or two of the sauce ; mix them off the fire. Set on 
 the pan again for two or three moments, but do not 
 let it boil after the eggs are in. 
 
 BECHAMEL. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of 
 butter sprinkled with flour, three or four onions, 
 and a carrot cut small, a little parsley, and a dozen 
 mushrooms. Set it over the fire until the butter is 
 melted, and then add three table-spoonfuls of flour 
 stirred into a pint of cream or rich milk, with salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg to your taste. Stir it till it 
 boils ; then reduce the fire, and let the bechamel 
 stew gently for three quarters of an hour. When 
 it is done, strain it, and then stir in the yolks of 
 three eggs. 
 
 ANOTHER BECHAMEL. 
 
 Cut into dice, or small square pieces, half a pound 
 of bacon or ham, a carrot, a turnip, and two onions. 
 Put them into a sauce-pan, with two large spoon- 
 fuls of veal-dripping ; add a little butter (about two 
 ounces), and two large spoonfuls of flour. Moisten 
 it with boiling water, or broth. Add nutmeg, cloves, 
 thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper to your taste ; also 
 a laurel-leaf. Let it stew for an hour. Strain it, 
 and before you serve it up, squeeze in a little 
 lemon-juice. 
 
 DRAWN BUTTER. 
 
 Put into a small pan a table-spoonful of flour 
 and a tumbler of water, with salt to your taste, 
 
20 SAUCES. 
 
 and a little pepper. Stir it till it boils. Then with- 
 draw it from the fire, and add two ounces of butter 
 and a few drops of cold water, with a little lemon- 
 juice, or vinegar. Set it on the stove, or near the 
 lire, and keep it warm till it is wanted. 
 
 You may thicken it while boiling with mush- 
 rooms, cut small; or after it is done with hard 
 eggs chopped fine, pickled cucumbers chopped, or 
 capers. 
 
 MELTED BUTTER— another way. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of 
 butter. When quite melted over the fire, throw in 
 a large spoonful of flour, and add a half pint of 
 boiling water, and salt to your taste. Boil it a few 
 minutes, and then put in a tea-spoonful of cold 
 water. If intended as sauce for a pudding, stir in 
 at the last a glass of white wine, and half a grated 
 nutmeg. 
 
 COLD SAUCE FOR FISH. 
 
 Cut small, and pound in a mortar, equal propor- 
 tions of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives and 
 burnet, with two yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pass 
 these ingredients through a cullender, and then 
 mix them on a plate with four table-spoonfuls of 
 sweet oil, two of vinegar, and two of mustard. 
 Use a wooden spoon. 
 
 SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES-SUCH AS ASPARAGUS, &c 
 
 Take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs ; mash 
 them on a plate with the back of a wooden spoon, 
 and mix them with three table-spoonfuls of vin- 
 egar, a shalot or small onion minced fine, and a 
 little salt and Cayenne pepper. Add three table- 
 spoonfuls of olive oil, »nd mix the whole very well. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 PUNGENT SAUCE. (Sauce Pkutante.) 
 
 21 
 
 Put into a saucepan a half-pint of vinegar, a 
 branch of thyme, two or three sprigs of sweet 
 marjoram, a leaf of laurel, a clove of garlic, a 
 shalot or a little onion, and Cayenne pepper and 
 salt to your taste. Add a glass of broth or gravy. 
 Stew the whole slowly till it is reduced to two 
 thirds of the original quantity : then strain it. 
 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE— FOR FISH. 
 
 Cut the flesh of three anchovies into small 
 shreds, and steep them in vinegar for half an hour 
 or more. Then mince them fine, and throw them 
 into a saucepan with a little butter rolled in flour. 
 Add pepper and mustard to your taste. Pour in 
 sufficient vinegar to cover it, and let it boil gently 
 for a quarter of an hour. Strain it, and squeeze 
 in a little lemon-juice before you serve it up. 
 
 CURRY SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan two ounces of butter and 
 a table-spoonful of curry-powder (or of powdered 
 turmeric if more convenient), half a grated nut- 
 meg, half a spoonful of saffron, and two spoonfuls 
 of flour. Add sufficient boiling water or broth to 
 cover it, and let it stew a quarter of an hour. 
 Strain it, stir in a little more butter, and serve it up. 
 
 TOMATA SAUCE. 
 
 Bake ten tomatas, with pepper and salt, till they 
 become like a marmelade. Then add a little flour 
 or grated bread crumbs, and a little broth or hot 
 
 
22 SAUCES. 
 
 water. Stew it gently ten minutes, and before you 
 send it to table add two ounces of butter and let 
 it melt in the sauce. 
 
 CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour, some salt, pepper, and one or two pickled 
 cucumbers minced fine. Moisten it with boiling 
 water. Let it stew gently a few minutes, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 BREAD SAUCE. 
 
 Take four ounces of grated stale bread ; pour 
 over it sufficient milk to cover it, and let it soak 
 about three quarters of an hour, or till it becomes 
 incorporated with the milk. Then add a dozen 
 corns of black pepper, a little salt, and a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut. Pour on a little more 
 milk, and give it a boil. Serve it up in a sauce- 
 boat, and eat it with roast wild fowl, or roast pig. 
 
 Instead of the pepper, you may boil in it a hand 
 full of dried currants, well picked, washed, and 
 floured. 
 
 SAUCE ROBERT. 
 
 Put into a sauce-pan a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, with a spoonful of flour. Simmer them till 
 of a fine brown color. Mince half a dozen large 
 onions, and a large slice of cold ham. Put them 
 into the pan, with another piece of butter, and a 
 very little broth or warm water. Skim the sauce 
 well, and let it stew gently for twenty minutes. 
 Before you serve it up, stir in a table-spoonful of 
 lemon-juice or vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of mus- 
 tard. This sauce is used chiefly for fresh pork, or 
 white poultry. 
 
SAUCES. 23 
 
 SHALOT OR ONION SAUCE. (Sauce Ravigote.) 
 
 Take a handful of sweet herbs and the same 
 quantity of shalots or little onions, and cut them 
 up small. Put them into a sauce-pan, with some 
 vinegar, salt, pepper, and sufficient broth or warm 
 water to cover them. Let them boil gently for a 
 quarter of an hour. Take the sauce from the fire 
 and set it on the stove, or on the hearth, and stir 
 in (till it melts) a piece of butter rolled in flour, or 
 a spoonful of olive oil. 
 
 UNIVERSAL SAUCE. 
 
 Take a pint of good broth, or a pint of drawn 
 butter. Stir into it a glass of white wine, and 
 half the peel of a lemon grated. Add a laurel 
 leaf, or two or three peach-leaves, and a spoonful 
 of vinegar. Let the mixture simmer on a few 
 coals or on hot ashes, for five or six hours or 
 more, and it will be good to pour over either 
 meat, poultry, or fish, and will keep several days 
 in a cool place. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE. 
 
 The lobster being boiled, extract the meat from 
 the shell, and beat it in a mortar. Rub it through 
 a cullender or sieve, and put it into a sauce-pan 
 with a spoonful of veloute (or velvet essence) if 
 you have it, and one of broth. Mix it well, and 
 add a piece of butter, some salt, and some Cay- 
 enne pepper. Stew it ten minutes, and serve it 
 up, to eat with boiled fresh fish. 
 
24 SAUCES. 
 
 SPINACH FOR COLORING GREEN. 
 
 Take three handfuls of spinach, and pound it in 
 a mortar to extract the juice. Then put it into a 
 sauce-pan and set it over a slow fire. When it is 
 just ready to boil, take it off and strain it. By 
 stirring in a small quantity of spinach-juice, you 
 may give any sauce a green color. 
 
 GARLIC BUTTER 
 
 Take two large cloves of garlic and pound 
 them to a paste in a mortar, adding, by degrees, a 
 piece of butter the size of an egg. You may with 
 a little of this butter give the taste of garlic to 
 sauces. Some persons like a piece of garlic butter 
 on the table, to eat with roast meat. 
 
 HAZELNUT BUTTER 
 
 Having scalded and blanched some hazelnuts, 
 pound them to a paste in a mortar, adding gradu- 
 ally a small quantity of butter. 
 
 This is good to eat with wild fowl, or to flavor 
 the most delicate sauces. 
 
 LARDING. 
 
 Larding with slips of fat bacon greatly im- 
 proves the taste and appearance of meat, poultry, 
 game, &c. and is much used in French cookery. 
 
 For this purpose, you must have a larding-pin 
 (which may be purchased at the hardware stores) ; 
 it is a steel instrument about a foot in length, sharp 
 at one end, and cleft at the other into four divi- 
 
SAUCES. 25 
 
 sions which are near two inches long, and resem- 
 bling tweezers. 
 
 Bacon is the proper meat to lard with ; the fat 
 only is used. Cut it into slips not exceeding two 
 inches in length, half an inch in breadth, and half 
 an inch in thickness, and smaller if intended for 
 poultry ; they will diminish in cooking. Put these 
 slips of bacon (one at a time) into the cleft or split 
 end of the larding-pin. Give each slip a slight 
 twist and press it down hard into the pin, with 
 your fingers. Then run the pin through the meat 
 or fowl (avoiding the bones), and when you draw 
 it out on the under side it will have left the slip of 
 bacon sticking in the upper side. Take care to 
 arrange the slips in regular rows and at equal dis- 
 tances ; have them all of the same size, and let 
 every one stick up about an inch from the surface 
 of the meat. If any are wrong, take them out 
 and do them over again. 
 
 Fowls and birds are generally larded on the 
 breast only. To lard handsomely and neatly, 
 practice and dexterity are requisite. 
 
 Cold poultry may be larded with slips of the 
 fat of cold boiled ham, and when not to be cooked 
 again, it may be made to look very tastefully. 
 
 The slips for cold poultry should be very small, 
 scarcely thicker than a straw. 
 
PART THE SECOND. 
 
MEATS. 
 
 VEAL A LA MODE. 
 
 Rub a fillet of veal all over with salt, and then 
 lard it. Make a seasoning of chopped sweet-herbs, 
 shalots, mushrooms, pepper, salt, and powdered nut- 
 meg, and mace. Moisten it with sweet oil, and 
 cover the veal all over with it. Put the veal into 
 a tureen, and let it set for several hours or all night. 
 Then take it out, covered as it is with the season- 
 ing, and wrap it in two sheets of white paper, well 
 buttered, and roast or bake it. When it is quite 
 done, take off the paper, and scrape off all the 
 seasoning from the veal. Put the seasoning into a 
 sauce-pan with the gravy, the juice of half a lemon, 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a little salt. 
 Give it a boil, skim it well, and pour it over the 
 veal. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS. 
 
 Make a seasoning of grated bread, minced ham, 
 chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and chopped mush- 
 rooms if you have them. Mix with it some yolk 
 of egg. Cut the veal into small thin slices, rub 
 them all over with lard, and then spread the sea- 
 soning over both sides. Wrap up each cutlet care- 
 fully in white paper, oiled or buttered. Bake thern 
 slowly for three quarters of an hour, and serve 
 them up in the papers. 
 
 C2 
 
30 MEATS. 
 
 BLANQUETTE OR FRICASSEE OF VEAL. 
 
 Take the remains of a cold roast fillet, or loin 
 of veal. Cut it into small thin pieces. Put them 
 into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour, salt, pepper, a few small onions minced, a 
 bunch of sweet-herbs chopped, and one or two 
 laurel or peach-leaves. Mix all together. Pour 
 in a little warm water, and let it boil gently five 
 minutes or more. When you take it off, stir in 
 some lemon-juice and some yolk of egg slightly 
 beaten. 
 
 godiveau. 
 
 Take a large piece of fillet of veal, free from fat 
 or skin. Mince it small, and then pound it in a 
 mortar till it is a smooth paste. Afterwards rub 
 it through a cullender or sieve. 
 
 Soak some slices of bread in warm milk, and 
 rub the bread also through a sieve. There must 
 be an equal quantity of bread and veal. Take the 
 same proportion of butter, and beat it in a mortar 
 with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and chopped parsley to 
 your taste. Then put all together. Beat two or 
 three eggs till very light, and add them gradually 
 to the mixture. Make it into round balls or into 
 long rolls, and fry thorn in butter. Or you may 
 put it into a pie (without a lid) and bake it 
 
 Godiveau is a very fine stuffing for poultry or 
 wild fowl. 
 
 CALVES' LIVER BAKED. 
 
 Lard the liver with bacon, and let it lie three or 
 four hours in a covered tureen with a seasoning 
 of parsley, shalots, laurel and thyme chopped 
 small, a little pepper and salt, and two table-spoon- 
 fuls of sweet oil. Turn it several times. Then 
 
MEATS. 31 
 
 wrap it up in thin slices of bacon or cold ham, and 
 bake or roast it about an hour and a quarter. Add 
 to the gravy the yolk of an egg, and some minced 
 onions and chopped sweet-herbs. 
 
 CALVES' LIVER FRIED- 
 
 Cut the liver into thin slices, and put them int 
 a frying-pan with a piece of butter rolled in flour 
 some minced onions and a glass of white wine, 
 salt, pepper, and a little mace. Let it fry abou* 
 en minutes. 
 
 VEAL KIDNEYS. 
 
 Cut the kidneys into thin slices; having first 
 soaked them in cold water, rub them with a little 
 salt and pepper. Then sprinkle them with flour, 
 and a little parsley and onions minced fine. Fry 
 them in butter, adding a glass of champagne or 
 other white wine. 
 
 Mutton kidneys may be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Another way of dressing kidneys is to split them 
 in half, season them with salt and pepper, lard 
 them, and broil them. 
 
 GRILLADES. 
 
 Cut slices from either a fillet of veal, a round of 
 fresh beef, a leg of mutton, or a leg of pork. Do 
 not let them exceed the thickness of half an mch. 
 Put them into a stew-pan with a sufficient propor- 
 tion of oil, pepper, salt, and a little parsley and 
 onion chopped fine. Stew them in a very little 
 water till half done. Then prepare some sheets 
 of white paper rubbed with oil or butter. Take 
 out the slices of meat (covered with this season- 
 ing) and grate some oread crumbs over them. 
 
32 MEATS. 
 
 Fasten up each slice in a piece of paper, and broil 
 them on a gridiron over a slow fire. Serve them 
 up in the paper. 
 
 LIVER CAKE. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of grated bread, and 
 two pounds of liver (either calves' or pigs') a few 
 onions, a little sage, some mushrooms, and a laurel 
 leaf, all chopped fine. Mince the liver also, and 
 mix it with the other ingredients, adding salt, pep- 
 per, and nutmeg. Butter a mould or a very deep 
 dish. Put the mixture into it, and let it bake an 
 hour and a half in a moderate oven. When done, 
 turn it out. 
 
 It is eaten cold, cut in slices. 
 
 SIRLOIN OF BEEF 
 
 Rub your beef all over with salt, and lard the 
 lean part of it with slips of fat bacon. Cover the 
 meat with sheets of oiled or buttered paper. Roast 
 it in proportion to its size, between three and four 
 hours. 
 
 Serve it up with its gravy, and have some 
 onion sauce in a boat. 
 
 STEWED BEEF. 
 
 Take some slices of cold roast beef that has 
 been under-done. Put them into a stew-pan with 
 a little gravy or broth, or if you have neither, some 
 warm water. Add a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 some capers, or some pickled cucumbers chopped 
 small, a little lemon-juice or vinegar, and some 
 salt and pepper. Let the beef simmer slowly, but 
 do not allow it to boil. Have ready some slices 
 of bread (of the same size as the slices of beef) and 
 
MEATS. OO 
 
 fry them in butter. Put some tomata sauce in the 
 bottom of a dish. Lay on it in a pile a few slices 
 of beef and slices of fried bread alternately. Pour 
 the gravy over it, and send it to table. 
 
 Any other sort of meat may be done in the same 
 manner. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS. 
 
 Cut slices of beef from the sirloin. Trim them 
 neatly, and take off the bone and the skin. To 
 make them tender beat them on both sides with a 
 wooden beetle or with the end of a rolling-pin. 
 Rub them with salt and pepper. Warm a suffi- 
 cient quantity of butter, and when it is soft spread 
 it over the steaks. Then sprinkle them with onions 
 minced very fine. Cover them up in a dish, and 
 let them lie an hour or more in the seasoning. 
 Then broil them over a clear fire. Slice some 
 cold boiled potatoes, fry them in butter, and lay 
 hem round the steaks. 
 
 BEEF A LA MODE. 
 
 Take a round of fresh beef, and beat it well to 
 make it tender. Rub it all over with salt and pep- 
 per. Lard it on both sides with slips of bacon. 
 Lay it in a deep pan with some slices of bacon, a 
 calves-foot, a few onions, a carrot cut in pieces, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs cut small, one or two laurel 
 leaves, some cloves, and a beaten nutmeg. Pour 
 in a half-pint of red wine, a half-pint of white 
 wine, and a spoonful of brandy. Let it stew 
 slowly for at least six hours. Then take it out ; 
 strain the gravy, pour it over the meat, and serve 
 it up. 
 
 A fillet of veal may be <ione in the same 
 manner. 
 
34 MEATS. 
 
 ROASTED HAM. 
 
 Let your ham soak all night in cold water, and 
 then trim it handsomely, having first taken out the 
 bone by loosening the meat all round it, with the 
 point of a knife. Tie a broad tape round the ham 
 to keep it in shape. Then put it into a large pan 
 with some sliced onions, some sprigs of parsley, 
 two or three laurel leaves, and a bottle of white 
 wine. Cover it, and let it lie in the seasoning 
 twenty-four hours. Then roast it, and baste it 
 with the seasoning. A large ham will require four 
 or five hours to roast. A little before it is done, 
 take off the skin and sprinkle the ham with grated 
 bread crumbs. 
 
 While the ham is roasting, stew together the 
 bone and the trimmings and scraps till they come 
 to a jelly, which you must strain through a sieve. 
 When you take the ham from the spit (having re- 
 moved the tape that has been fastened round it) 
 glaze it all over with the jelly, laid on with a brush 
 or a quill feather. Serve it up with the seasoning 
 or marinade under it. 
 
 If the ham is to be eaten cold, you may cover 
 it all over the glazing with cold boiled potatoes 
 grated finely, so that it will look like a large cake 
 covered with icing. Ornament it with slices of 
 boiled carrot, beets, &c. scolloped and laid on the 
 potatoes, in handsome forms, so as to look like red 
 and yellow flowering. Stick a large bunch of 
 double parsley in the centre. 
 
 A ham boiled in the usual manner may be orna- 
 mented in the same way ; first extracting the bone, 
 and making the meat into a circular shape. 
 
 Instead of a mere bunch of double parsley, you 
 may stick in the centre of the ham a nosegay of 
 flowers, formed of different culinary vegetables, 
 and cut into proper shape with a sharp pen-knife, 
 
MEATS. 35 
 
 All these vegetables must be raw. The flowers 
 intended to represent red roses must be made of 
 beets, the white roses of turnips, and the marigolds 
 or other deep yellow flowers must be cut out of 
 carrots. The pieces of turnips and beets must first 
 be made with the pen-knife into the form of a ball, 
 on the surface of which the rose-leaves must be 
 cut. The carrots may be cut into flat slices, and 
 then notched to look like marigolds or chrysanthe- 
 mums. Stick each flower on the end of a small 
 wooden skewer, which will answer for the stalk, 
 but which must be concealed by thick bunches of 
 double parsley tied on so as to represent the green 
 leaves. Tie all the skewers together at the bottom 
 with a pack-thread, and the whole will have the 
 effect of a handsome nosegay when placed in the 
 middle of the ham. 
 
 A round of cold a-la-mode beef may be orna- 
 mented with a bunch of these flowers. Let the 
 beef itself be covered all over with parsley, so as 
 to resemble a green bank. 
 
 FRIED HAM, WITH TOMATAS. 
 
 Fry some slices of cold boiled ham. Then fry 
 some tomatas, allowing one tomata to each slice 
 of meat. Lay the tomatas on the ham, shake some 
 pepper over them, and send them to table. 
 
 ROASTED TONGUE. 
 
 Having soaked a large smoked tongue all night 
 in cold water, parboil it in a very little warm 
 water with a slice of bacon, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and an onion or two stuck with cloves. 
 When it is nearly done, take it out, drain it, and 
 lard it with large slips of bacon on the upper side, 
 
36 MEATS. 
 
 and small pieces on the under side. Then put it 
 on the spit and roast it half an hour, and serve 
 it up with pungent sauce (Sauce Piquante.) 
 
 BAKED TONGUE. 
 
 Take a cold boiled tongue and cut it into slices. 
 Put in the bottom of a deep dish a little vinegar, 
 with some capers, parsley and shalots minced fine, 
 and some grated bread, all mixed together. Lay 
 the slices of tongue upon this, and cover them with 
 some more of the same seasoning. Then grate 
 some bread all over the top. Moisten the whole 
 by pouring in a little warm water. Put the dish 
 into a stove moderately heated, or set it on a slow 
 furnace. Bake it till brown. 
 
 POTTED TONGUE. 
 
 Boil two smoked tongues. Skin them and cut 
 them into thin slices. Put the slices (a few at a 
 time) into a mortar and beat them to a paste, add- 
 ing gradually a pound of butter. Then prepare an 
 equal quantity of the lean of stewed veal, and 
 pound that also in the mortar (a little at a time) 
 with the same proportion of butter. Then make 
 the veal and the tongue into lumps, and put them 
 alternately into your stone pots, pressing them 
 together so as to look like red and white marble. 
 Have a layer of veal at the top. Press the whole 
 down very hard. Fill up the pots with butter, 
 boiled and skimmed and poured on warm. Tie 
 them up closely with parchment, and keep them 
 in a cold but dry place. 
 
 When you use it, cut it in slices. 
 
MEATS. 37 
 
 LEG OF MUTTON WITH OYSTERS. 
 
 Rub a leg of mutton all over with salt, and put 
 it on the spit to roast with a clear fire, basting it 
 with its own gravy. When it is nearly done, take 
 it up and with a sharp knife make incisions all over 
 it, and stuff an oyster into every hole. Then put 
 it again before the fire, to finish roasting. 
 
 Before you serve it up, skim the gravy well, and 
 give it a boil with a glass of red wine. 
 
 CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON. 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton into chops, leaving a bone 
 to each, but scraping the end of the bone quite 
 clean. Mix together some grated bread, and 
 some marjoram and onion chopped fine. Season 
 it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Having melted 
 some butter, dip each chop into it, and then cover 
 them on both sides with the seasoning. Butter 
 rome half-sheets of white paper, and put the cutlets 
 ttito them, leaving the end of each bone to stick 
 )ut of the paper like a handle. Lay them on a 
 gridiron, and broil them for about twenty minutes 
 on clear lively coals. Serve them up in the 
 papers. 
 
 Make a sauce of four shalots or little onions 
 chopped fine, some gravy, a little pepper and salt, 
 and a spoonful of red wine. Boil this sauce for a 
 minute, and send it up in a boat. 
 
 PORK CUTLETS. 
 
 Mince together some onions, parsley, and a 
 laurel leaf. Season it with pepper, salt, and cloves. 
 Cut your pork into thin steaks, and lay them in this 
 D 
 
38 MEATS. 
 
 seasoning for five or six hours. Then broil or fry 
 them with the seasoning on them, and serve them 
 up with sauce Robert, or with tomata sauce. 
 
 LARDED RABBIT. 
 
 Lard a fine large rabbit, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with a slice or two of cold ham, a bunch ot 
 sweet-herbs, a table-spoonful of sweet oil, and a 
 gill of white wine. Stew it slowly, and, when it is 
 quite done, strain the gravy and pour it over the 
 rabbit. 
 
 RABBITS IN PAPERS. 
 
 Take two young rabbits ; cut off the limbs and 
 put them aside. Cut the flesh from the body, and 
 chop it very fine, mixing it with shalots, parsley, 
 and mushrooms chopped also, and, if you choose, a 
 clove of garlic. Season it with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, and moisten it with sweet oil. Lay the 
 legs of the rabbit in this mixture, for three or four 
 hours. Then take out separately each leg covered 
 with the seasoning, lay on it a thin slice of bacon 
 or cold ham, and wrap it in a sheet of white paper 
 well buttered. Broil the limbs slowly on the grid- 
 iron, and serve them up hot in the papers. 
 
 Fowls may be done in the same manner. Ducks 
 also. 
 
 PILAU. 
 
 Take half a dozen slices of the lean of a leg of 
 mutton, or of fillet of veal. Put them into a stew- 
 pan with six large onions, a carrot cut in pieces, 
 and some parsley, with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to 
 your taste. Add a tea-spoonful of saffron, a piece 
 
MEATS. 39 
 
 of butter rolled in flour, and a little boiling water. 
 Let it stew for an hour, and skim it well. 
 
 Have ready a pound of rice boiled soft and 
 drained. Mix with it a large piece of butter. Put 
 some rice in the bottom of a deep dish, and lay on 
 it first the seasoning, and then the slices of meat in 
 a pile. Keep the remainder of the rice over it, and 
 set it on the stove or in the oven for ten minutes. 
 
 VEAL SWEETBREADS- 
 
 Take three sweet-breads, and soak them three or 
 four hours in milk. Then wipe them dry, and lard 
 them. Make a seasoning of sweet-herbs and mush- 
 rooms chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of cold 
 ham or bacon scraped or minced, salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg to your taste, and a table-spoonful of 
 sweet-oil. Mix the seasoning very well together, 
 and put it into a stew-pan with the sweet-breads, 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little water or 
 broth, and the same quantity of wine. Stew it 
 about ten minutes. Then take out the sweet-breads, 
 lay them in a deep dish, pour the seasoning over 
 them, and let them get cold. Next prepare some 
 cases of white paper, oil them, and cover the in- 
 side with grated bread. Put a sweet-bread into 
 each paper-case, with some of the seasoning at 
 bottom and top. Close the cases, put them in an 
 oven, and bake them long enough to color the 
 sweet-breads. Serve them up in the papers. 
 
 Set the gravy over the fire, and when it simmers 
 take it off, and stir in the yolk of an egg slightly 
 beaten. Keep it covered for a few minutes, and 
 then serve it up in a boat 
 
PART THE THIRD. 
 
GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 A SALMI. 
 
 Cut off the flesh from the bodies of a pair of cold 
 pheasants, partridges or wild-ducks, or an equal 
 quantity of small birds. Beat it in a mortar, moist- 
 ening it frequently with a little broth or gravy. 
 Then pass the whole through a cullender or sieve. 
 Put it into a stew T -pan with a piece of butter about 
 the size of a walnut, rolled in flour ; half a pint of 
 port wine or claret ; two whole onions, and a bunch 
 of sweet-herbs. Let it boil half an hour, and then 
 stir in two table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and the 
 juice of a lemon. 
 
 In another pan stew the legs and wings of the 
 birds, but do not let them boil. Stew them in but- 
 ter rolled in flour, seasoned with pepper and salt. 
 Cut some slices of bread into triangular pieces, and 
 fry them in butter. Lay them in the bottom of a 
 dish, put the legs and wings upon them, and then 
 the other part of the stew. Garnish the edge with 
 slices of lemon, handsomely notched with a knife. 
 
 If the Salmi is made of partridges, use oranges 
 instead of lemons for the juice and garnishing. 
 
 COLD SALMI. 
 
 This is prepared on the table. Take the liver 
 of a roast goose, turkey, or ducks. Put some of 
 the gravy on a plate, cut up the liver in it, and 
 bruise it with the back of a spoon or a silver fork. 
 
44 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 Add three tea-spoonfuls of olive oil, the juice of 
 a lemon, and cayenne pepper and salt to your taste. 
 Mix it well. When the bird is cut up, eat with it 
 some of this sauce. 
 
 RAGOOED LIVERS. 
 
 Take the livers of half a dozen fowls or other 
 poultry, a dozen mushrooms, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, a clove of garlic or a small onion, a table- 
 spoonful of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass of 
 white wine, and sufficient warm water to keep the 
 ingredients moist. Season it with salt and pepper. 
 Stew all together, and skim it well. Before you 
 send it to table, stir in the yolks of two or three 
 beaten eggs, and two spoonfuls of cream. 
 
 A FINE HASH. 
 
 Take any cold game or poultry that you have. 
 You may mix several kinds together. Some sau- 
 sages, of the best sort, will be an improvement 
 Chop all together, and mix with it bread crumbs, 
 chopped onions and parsley, and the yolks of two 
 or three hard-boiled eggs. Put it into a sauce-pan 
 with a proportionate piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 Moisten it with broth, gravy, or warm water, and 
 let it stew gently for half an hour. 
 
 Cold veal or fresh pork may be hashed in the 
 same manner. 
 
 MARINADE OF FOWLS. 
 
 Take a pair of fowls, skin and cut them up. 
 Wash them in lukewarm water. Drain them, and 
 put them into a stew-pan with some butter. Season 
 them to your taste with salt, pepper, and lemon- 
 
GAME AND POULTRY. 45 
 
 juice. Add parsley, onions, and a laurel leaf. 
 Moisten them with warm water, and let them stew 
 slowly on hot coals for two or three hours. Clear 
 them from the seasoning and drain them. Then 
 lay them in a dish, and grate bread crumbs over 
 them. Whip some white of egg to a stiff froth, 
 and cover with it all the pieces of fowl. 
 
 FRICASSEE OF FOWLS. 
 
 Skin and cut up your fowls, and soak them two 
 hours in cold water, to make them white. Drain 
 them. Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, 
 and a table-spoonful of flour. Stir them together 
 till the butter has melted. Add salt, pepper, a 
 grated nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet-herbs. Pour 
 in half a pint of cream. Put in the fowls, and let 
 them stew three quarters of an hour. Before you 
 send them to table, stir in the yolks of three beaten 
 eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 The Fricassee will be greatly improved by some 
 mushrooms stewed with the fowl. 
 
 To keep the fricassee white, cover it (while stew- 
 ing) with a sheet of buttered paper laid over the 
 fowls. The lid of the stew-pan must be kept on 
 tightly. 
 
 FOWLS WITH TARRAGON. 
 
 Pick two handfuls of tarragon (the leaves from 
 the stalks) and chop half of it fine with the livers 
 of the fowls. Mix it with butter, salt, and whole 
 pepper. Stuff your fowls with it. Lard them and 
 wrap them in papers buttered or oiled. 
 
 Melt some butter rolled in flour, and stir into it 
 the rest of the tarragon. Moisten it with a little 
 water or milk. Stir in the yolks of two beaten 
 
46 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 eggs, and the juice of half a lemon. Serve it up as 
 gravy. Strew over the fowls some sprigs of fresh 
 tarragon. 
 
 A STEWED FOWL. 
 
 Take a large fowl, and put it into a stew-pan 
 with two ounces or more of butter, some thin slices 
 of cold ham, a little parsley and onion chopped 
 fine, and some nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Then 
 pour in half a tumbler of white wine. You may 
 add, if you choose, six table-spoonfuls of boiled rice, 
 which you must afterwards serve up under the 
 fowl and ham. Let it stew slowly for two hours, 
 with just sufficient water to keep it from burning. 
 
 Before you send it to table, go all over the fowl 
 with a feather or brush dipped in yolk of egg. 
 You may add to the stew a dozen small onions, to 
 be laid round the fowl with the slices of ham. 
 
 CHICKENS IN JELLY. 
 
 Cold chickens, pigeons, and game, look very 
 handsome in jelly. To make this jelly, take four 
 calves-feet (with the skin on) and boil them to a 
 strong jelly with an ounce of isinglass and three 
 quarts of water, carefully skimming off the fat. 
 The calves-feet must be boiled the day before the 
 jelly is wanted, and when it is cold scrape off all 
 the sediment that adheres to it. Then boil the 
 jelly with the addition of the whites and shells of 
 six eggs, the juice of three lemons, three or four 
 sticks of cinnamon, half a pound of loaf-sugar, and 
 a pint of Malaga or other sweet wine. Let it boil 
 hard for five or six minutes, but do not stir it. 
 Strain it several times through a flannel bag into 
 a deep white pan, but do not on any consideration 
 squeeze or press the bag, as that will entirely spoil 
 
GAME AND POULTRY. 47 
 
 the transparency of the jelly. After it has done 
 dripping through the bag, take out all the ingre- 
 dients (as they are now of no farther use) and 
 wash the bag clean. Then pour the jelly into it 
 again, and let it strain. Repeat this till it is per- 
 fectly clear and bright ; washing the bag every 
 time. Sometimes (but not often) it will be clear 
 at the first straining. 
 
 Put a little of the jelly into the bottom of a deep 
 dish or bowl, and set it in a cold place. When it 
 has congealed and is firm, lay your chickens on it 
 with the breasts downwards. Having kept the re- 
 mainder of the jelly warm, to prevent its congeal- 
 ing too soon, pour it over the fowls. Let it stand 
 all night or till it is perfectly firm. Then set your 
 dish or bowl in warm water for a moment, to 
 loosen the jelly. Lay over it the dish in which 
 you intend to serve it up, and turn it out carefully. 
 If you fear that you will not be able to turn it out 
 without breaking the jelly, you may prepare it at 
 the beginning in a deep china dish fit to send to 
 table. 
 
 If you put too much water to the calves-feet, 
 the jelly will never be firm, till it is boiled over 
 again with more isinglass. The generality of 
 cooks are in the habit of putting too much water 
 to every thing, and should be cautioned accord- 
 ingly. 
 
 PULLED CHICKENS. 
 
 Boil a pair of fowls till they are about half done. 
 Then skin them, and pull the flesh from the bones 
 in pieces about a finger in breadth and half a fin- 
 ger in length. Take a few table-spoonfuls of the 
 liquor they were boiled in, and mix it with half a 
 pint of boiling cream. Put it into a stew-pan with 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour ; pepper, salt, and 
 
48 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 nutmeg; a little chopped parsley; and a table- 
 spoonful of white wine. Put in the pieces of 
 chicken, and stew them slowly till quite done. 
 
 STEWED TURKEY, OR TURKEY EN DAUBE. 
 
 Take a large turkey ; lard it and stuff it as for 
 roasting. Then cover it all over with a seasoning 
 made of salt, pepper, nutmeg, and sweet-herbs, 
 parsley and onions, minced fine. Put it into a 
 stew-pan, with some slices of bacon, one or two 
 calves-feet, some onions and carrots, one or two 
 laurel leaves, a few cloves, a beaten nutmeg, . salt, 
 pepper, and, if you choose, a clove of garlic. Pour 
 in a pint of water, and a pint of white wine or 
 brandy. 
 
 Put on the cover of the stew-pan, and lay round 
 its edge on the outside a wet cloth, which must be 
 kept wet. Stew it slowly for five or six hours or 
 more, and turn the turkey when about half done. 
 When it is finished, withdraw the fire, and skim 
 and strain the gravy. Serve up the turkey with 
 the gravy under it. 
 
 A goose done this way is very fine. 
 
 A round of beef may be stewed in the same 
 manner. It will be the better for lying all night 
 in the seasoning, and it should be put in to stew 
 early in the morning. 
 
 ROASTED TURKEY. 
 
 Rub the turkey all over with salt. Then lard it. 
 You may stuff it with sausage-meat ; or with 
 chestnuts previously boiled, peeled, and mashed. 
 Or, you may make a force-meat stuffing of the 
 liver, heart, and gizzard, chopped fine, and mixed 
 with chopped parsley, onions, sweet-herbs, grated 
 bread, butter, lemon-juice, grated lemon-peel, and 
 the yolk of one or two eggs. 
 
GAME AND POULTRY. 49 
 
 A turkey of moderate size will require at least 
 two hours to roast. Thicken the gravy with yolk 
 of egg stirred in just before you send it to table. 
 
 A cold roast turkey should be larded and served 
 up with large spoonfuls of stiff currant jelly drop- 
 ped all over it. 
 
 You may roast a goose in the same manner. 
 
 POTTED GOOSE. 
 
 Take several fine geese ; rub them with salt, 
 and put into each a handful of sage leaves. Roast 
 them about an hour. Do not baste them, but save 
 all the fat in the dripping-pan, emptying it as it is 
 filled. When you have taken the geese from the 
 spit, cut off the legs and wings, and cut the flesh 
 from the breast in slices. Set them away to get 
 cold. 
 
 Put the fat that has dripped from the geese into 
 a kettle, with about half as much lard as there is 
 of the dripping. Boil it ten minutes. Have ready 
 a tall stone jar, or more than one if necessary. 
 Lay two legs of the geese side by side in the bot- 
 tom, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper ; 
 placing, if you choose, a laurel leaf on each. 
 Then put in two wings, and season them also. 
 Next a layer of the slices cut from the breast, sea- 
 soned in the same manner. When the pots are 
 almost full of the goose, fill them up to the top 
 with the boiling fat, and set them away till the 
 next day to get cold. The upper layer must be 
 covered at least an inch thick with the fat. 
 
 Tie up the pots with covers of parchment wet 
 with brandy, and keep them in a cold but not in a 
 damp place. 
 
 In France great numbers of geese are fattened 
 for this purpose. 
 
 E 
 
50 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 DUCKS WITH TURNIPS. 
 
 Stew some turnips with butter, salt, and a little 
 sugar. When soft, take them out and drain them. 
 Cut up your ducks, season them, and put them into 
 the same pan that has held the turnips. Stew the 
 ducks with a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little 
 water, and a bunch of sweet-herbs tied up. When 
 the ducks are nearly done, put the turnips in 
 again, and let all stew slowly together for ten 
 minutes, skimming it well. Withdraw the sweet- 
 herbs before you send the dish to table. 
 
 A DUCK WITH OLIVES. 
 
 Having larded your duck, stew it whole, with 
 butter, pepper, salt, and a little water. Take half 
 a pint of olives, cut them in half and take out the 
 seeds or stones. When the duck is nearly done, 
 throw in the olives, and let all stew together about 
 five minutes or more. Serve up the duck with the 
 olives round it. 
 
 A DUCK WITH PEAS. 
 
 Stew the duck whole, with some lard and a little 
 salt, till about half done. Then take it out and 
 drain it. Put into the stew-pan a large piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. When it has melted, pour 
 in a quart of shelled green peas, and add a bunch 
 of mint, or other sweet herbs, and some pepper 
 and salt. Then put in the duck, adding a little 
 warm water. Let it stew slowly till quite done, 
 skimming it well. 
 
GAME AND POULTRY. 51 
 
 TURKEY PUDDINGS. 
 
 Mince thirty small onions and mix them with an 
 equal quantity of bread crumbs that have been 
 soaked in milk. Chop an equal quantity of the 
 flesh of cold turkey. Mix all together, and pound 
 it very well in a mortar. Pass it through a cul- 
 lender, and then return it to the mortar and beat 
 it again, adding gradually the yolks of six hard 
 eggs, and a pint of cream or half a pound of but- 
 ter. Season it to your taste with salt, mace and 
 nutmeg. 
 
 Have ready some skins, nicely cleaned as for 
 sausages. Fill the skins with the mixture, and tie 
 up the ends. Then simmer your puddings, but do 
 not let them boil. Take them out, drain them, and 
 put them away to get cold. 
 
 When you wish to cook them for immediate use 
 prick them with a fork, wrap them in buttered pa- 
 per, and broil them on a gridiron. 
 
 Similar puddings may be made of cold fowls. 
 
 BAKED PIGEONS, OR PIGEONS A LA CRAPAUDINE. 
 
 Split the pigeons down the back. Take out the 
 livers, which you must mince with bacon and 
 sweet-herbs, adding to them the livers of fowls or 
 other birds, if you have them, and bacon in pro- 
 portion. Or you may substitute sausage-meat. Add 
 bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and the yolks of two 
 eggs or more, with salt, pepper, mace and nutmeg 
 to your taste. Mix all together, and stuff your 
 pigeons with it, and then glaze them all over with 
 beaten white of egg. Place them in a buttered 
 pan, and set them in the oven. Bake them half an 
 hour. Before you serve them up, squeeze some 
 lemon-juice into the gravy. 
 
52 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 BROILED PIGEONS. 
 
 Split your pigeons and flatten them. Make a 
 seasoning of sweet oil, salt, pepper, chopped sha- 
 lots, and chopped parsley. Rub this seasoning all 
 over the pigeons. Then cover them with grated 
 bread crumbs. Wrap each in a sheet of white 
 paper, and broil them on a slow fire. Serve them 
 up with a sauce made of minced onions, butter 
 rolled in flour, lemon-juice or vinegar, and salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 PIGEONS PEAR-FASHION. (Pigeons au Poire.) 
 
 First, bone your pigeons. To do this, take a 
 sharp knife, and slipping it under the flesh care- 
 fully loosen it from the bone, and do not tear the 
 skin. Begin at the upper part of the bird, just 
 above the wings, scrape gradually down, and 
 finish at the legs. Then take hold of the neck, and 
 draw out the whole skeleton at once. Make a 
 good force-meat or stuffing (as directed for baked 
 pigeons), and fill them with it, making them each 
 into the shape of a large pear. Fasten them with 
 skewers. Glaze them all over with yolk of egg, 
 and then roll them in grated bread-crumbs. Stick 
 in the top of each, the lower end of the leg, to 
 look like the stem of a pear. Lay them in a but- 
 tered dish (but not so close as to touch each other) 
 and bake them. Make a good gravy, thickened 
 with the yoJk of an egg, and some butter rolled in 
 flour. 
 
 PIGEONS WITH PEAS. 
 
 Take two or four pigeons (according to their 
 size), and truss them with the feet inwards. Put 
 them into a stew-pan with a piece of butter rolled 
 
GAJVIJE AND POULTRY. 53 
 
 i. four, and two or three slices of cold ham, or 
 bacon, and a little water. Let them stew gently 
 till brown. Then add a quart of green peas, and 
 a bunch of mint, with another piece of butter, and 
 a little warm water or milk. Let them stew slowly, 
 and when they are quite done, stir in some more 
 butter. Serve up the pigeons with the peas under 
 them. 
 
 ROASTED PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Lard the partridges, and put in the inside of 
 each a laurel leaf, and an orange cut in pieces. If 
 you omit the laurel leaf, do not peel the orange, 
 but put in the pieces with the rind on them. These 
 must be taken out before the partridges are sent to 
 table. Be careful not to roast them too much. 
 
 PARTRIDGES WITH CABBAGE. 
 
 Having trussed the partridges, put them into a 
 stew-pan with a large piece of butter rolled in 
 flour ; a quarter of a pound of bacon or ham cut 
 into dice ; a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little 
 warm water. Put into another stew-pan a fine 
 Savoy cabbage, with a pint of the dripping of beef 
 or pork. Let it stew slowly till nearly done. Then 
 take out the cabbage and drain it, and put it into 
 the stew-pan to cook with the partridges for half 
 an hour. Lay the cabbage under the partridges 
 when you send them to table. 
 
 A PARTRIDGE PIE. 
 
 Take three pair of large partridges and truss 
 them as you do fowls. Rub them all over with a 
 mixture of pepper, salt, powdered mace and pow- 
 E2 
 
54 GAME AND POULTRY. 
 
 dered nutmeg. Take a pound of fat bacon and 
 two pounds of lean veal, and cut them into small 
 pieces. Put them into a stew-pan with a quarter 
 of a pound of butter. Add a bunch of sweet-herbs, 
 and a few shalots or small onions, all minced fine. 
 Stew them till the meat seems to be quite done, 
 and then put it into a cullender to drain. After- 
 wards put the meat into a mortar, season it with 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace, and pound it to a 
 smooth paste ; moistening it at times with some of 
 the liquor in which it was stewed. 
 
 Prepare a rich paste, and spread a sheet of it 
 over the bottom of a large and deep buttered dish. 
 Put in the partridges, side by side, pour in a little 
 water, add a piece of butter, and cover them with 
 the pounded meat. Lay on the top a few slices of 
 cold ham. Roll out a thick piece of paste for the 
 lid, and cover the pie with it ; cutting the edges 
 into square notches, and folding over the half of 
 each notch. Ornament the lid with leaves and 
 flowers made of paste. Bake it three hours, and 
 see that the oven is not so hot as to scorch it. 
 When done, glaze it all over with white of egg. 
 
 This pie will be greatly improved by the addi- 
 tion of some truffles. If you cannot procure truf- 
 fles, mushrooms cut in pieces may be substituted. 
 
 ROASTED PHEASANTS. 
 
 Make a stuffing of fresh raw oysters, chopped, 
 and seasoned with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. 
 Mix with it some sweet oil, some yolk of egg, and 
 fill the pheasants with this stuffing. Cover the 
 pheasants with thin slices of bacon or cold ham ; 
 wrap them in buttered sheets of white paper, and 
 roast them. Serve them up with oyster sauce. 
 
GAME AND POULTRY. 55 
 
 BROILED QUAILS. 
 
 Split the quails down the back, and flatten them. 
 Put them into a stew-pan with sweet-oil, salt, pep- 
 per, and a leaf or two of laurel. Cover them with 
 thin slices of bacon or ham, and let them stew 
 slowly on hot coals. When nearly done, take 
 them out, strew over them grated breadcrumbs, 
 and broil them on a gridiron. 
 
 Put into the stew-pan a little warm water, and 
 scrape down whatever adheres to the sides ; skim 
 it, and let it come to a boil. Pour this gravy into 
 the dish in which you serve up the quails, and lay 
 the bacon round it. 
 
 ROASTED PLOVERS. 
 
 Scald and pick your plovers, but do not draw 
 them. Lard them, and lay slices of toasted bread 
 in the dripping-pan to receive what falls from the 
 Dirds while roasting. Serve them up with the toast 
 under them. 
 
 Woodcocks and snipes are roasted in the same 
 nanner. 
 
PART THE FOURTH 
 
FISH. 
 
 STEWED SALMON. 
 
 Pour a half-pint of white wine into a stew-pan, 
 with some sliced carrots, onions, and mushrooms ; 
 pepper, salt, and mace ; and a bunch of chopped 
 sweet-herbs. Lay in your piece of fresh salmon, 
 and pour over it some more wine. Stew it slowly 
 for an hour or more. When done, serve it up with 
 the sauce that is under it, and also with some sauce 
 Mayonnaise in a boat. 
 
 The sauce Mayonnaise is made as follows: — 
 Put into a small tureen the yolks of two beaten 
 eggs, a little salt and Cayenne pepper, and a very 
 little vinegar. Stir and mix it well; then add 
 (a drop at a time) two table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil, 
 stirring all the while. When it is well mixed, stir 
 in gradually some more vinegar. To stir and mix 
 it thoroughly will require a quarter of an hour. It 
 will then be very delicate. 
 
 You may color it green by adding a little juice 
 of spinach, or some chopped parsley or tarragon 
 at the first, when you put in the eggs. 
 
 ROASTED SALMON. 
 
 A large piece of fresh salmon is very fine roast- 
 ed on a spit, first rubbing it with salt, and then 
 basting it all the time with sweet-oil or butter. 
 
 For roasted salmon, make a sauce as follows : — 
 Put into a sauce-pan a little parsley, a shalot or 
 small onion, a few mushrooms, and a piece of but- 
 ter rolled in flour, pepper, salt, and a gill or more 
 
60 FISH. 
 
 of white wine. Let these ingredients boil for half 
 an hour; then strain them through a sieve, and 
 mix with the sauce a table-spoonful of olive-oil. 
 
 BROILED SALMON. 
 
 Cut several slices of fresh salmon; soak them 
 an hour in a mixture of sweet-oil, chopped parsley, 
 and shalots minced fine, with salt and pepper. 
 Then take each slice with the seasoning on it, and 
 wrap it in buttered paper. Broil the slices on a 
 gridiron. When thoroughly done, take off the 
 paper, and serve up the salmon with melted butter 
 and capers. 
 
 Any other large fish may be dressed like salmon. 
 
 SALT COD-FISH. 
 
 Let it soak twenty-four hours in cold water, 
 which must be changed several times, and every 
 time you change it pour in a wine-glass of vinegar, 
 which will greatly improve the fish. Boil the cod 
 till thoroughly done ; then cut the flesh into very 
 small slips ; mix it with parsley, butter, vinegar, 
 Cayenne pepper, nutmeg, and mace; add to the 
 mixture some boiled onions, mashed potatoes, and 
 the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Put the whole 
 mixture into a deep dish, and make it up into the 
 form of a thick round cake. Go all over it with a 
 bunch of feathers, or a small brush, dipped in 
 sweet-oil ; and then grate bread crumbs all over it. 
 Set it in the oven till brown. Serve it up, sur- 
 rounded with triangular or three-cornered slices 
 of toast, dipped in melted butter. 
 
 Halibut may be dressed in the same manner, 
 putting salt in the water when you boil it, and also 
 in the seasoning. 
 
 Fresh cod may be cooked in the same way. 
 
FISH. 61 
 
 BROILED FRESH MACKEREL. 
 
 Split your mackerel down the back ; season it 
 with pepper and salt ; cover it all over with oil or 
 butter, and let it lay for half an hour or more ; 
 then broil it, pouring on it whatever of the season- 
 ing may be left in the dish. 
 
 Serve it up, with sauce in a boat. Let the sauce 
 be of melted butter, with parsley, and a little lemon- 
 juice, or vinegar. 
 
 Or you may broil the mackerel whole, having 
 first seasoned it as above, and wrapped it in oiled 
 paper. 
 
 BROILED FRESH SHAD. 
 
 Having split the shad in half, cover it all over 
 with a seasoning of oil, pepper, salt, chopped 
 onions, parsley, and laurel-leaf. Let it lie an hour 
 or two in the seasoning. Then broil it, covered 
 with the seasoning, and adding a piece of butter. 
 
 Or you may cook the shad whole. Make a stuf- 
 fing of the above ingredients, with the addition of 
 some grated bread ; put the stuffing into the shad, 
 and bake it, first pouring over it a glass of white 
 wine. 
 
 Any large fresh fish may be baked in the same 
 manner. 
 
 HASHED FISH. 
 
 Take any sort of cold fish, bone it, and then 
 chop it with the remains of a cold omelet, and 
 some mushrooms if you have them. Mix with it 
 some chopped parsley, a little butter, a slice of 
 bread soaked in milk, and the yolks of two or three 
 hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Mix all together, 
 and season with pepper and salt. Stew it gently 
 with a little water for half an hour. 
 F 
 
62 FISH. 
 
 LOBSTER PIE. 
 
 Having boiled your lobster, take out the meat 
 from the shell, season it with salt, mustard, Cayenne 
 pepper, and vinegar, and beat it well in a mortar. 
 Then stir in a quarter of a pound of butter, the 
 yolks of two beaten eggs, and two ounces or more 
 of grated bread crumbs. Make some puff-paste, 
 put in the mixture, and cover it with a lid of paste 
 ornamented with leaves or flowers of the same. 
 Bake it slowly. 
 
 OYSTER LOAVES. 
 
 Have ready some small loaves or rolls of bread. 
 Cut a round piece out of the top of each, and 
 scoop out the crumb or soft part. Take the' liquor 
 of your oysters, put into it the crumbs, with a little 
 chopped celery, and a large piece of butter. As 
 soon as it boils, pour the liquor over the oysters, 
 and this will cook them sufficiently. Fill your 
 loaves with the oysters, putting into each a tea- 
 spoonful of cream. Lay on again the piece of 
 crust that was cut out of the top of each loaf or 
 roll, and set them in the oven for a few minutes. 
 
PART THE FIFTH. 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 STEWED LETTUCE. 
 
 Wash a fine lettuce, and tie it up with a string 
 passed several times round it, to keep the leaves 
 together. Put it in boiling water, with a little salt. 
 When the lettuce has boiled, take it out and press 
 it to squeeze out the water, but be careful not to 
 break it. 
 
 Having mixed, in a stew-pan, a large spoonful 
 of butter with a spoonful of flour, add half a pint 
 of cream or rich milk ; put in the lettuce, with a 
 very little salt, half a nutmeg grated, and two 
 lumps of sugar. Let it boil ten minutes. Take out 
 the lettuce, stir the yolks of two beaten eggs into 
 the sauce, and serve all up together. 
 
 STEWED SPINACH. 
 
 Take young spinach, and throw it into boiling 
 water with some salt. When it has boiled, take it 
 out, drain it, and lay it in cold water for a quarter 
 of an hour. Then drain it and squeeze it. Cut it 
 small, and put it into a stew-pan, with a large piece 
 of butter. After it has stewed slowly for a quarter 
 of an hour, add a spoonful of flour, with a little 
 salt, sugar, and nutmeg. Moisten it with cream 
 or milk, and let it simmer again over a slow fire 
 for another quarter of an hour. Then serve it u,p, 
 and lay on it slices of toasted bread dipped in 
 melted butter. 
 
 F2 
 
66 VEGETABLES. 
 
 STEWED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Lay your cucumbers in cold water for half an 
 hour; then pare them, and cut them into slips 
 about as long as your little finger ; take out the 
 seeds; then boil the cucumbers a few minutes, 
 with a little salt. Take them out, and drain them 
 well. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan some butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little cream. Stew your cucumbers in it 
 for ten minutes. When you take them off, stir in 
 the yolks of two beaten eggs ; and if you choose, 
 a tea-spoonful of vinegar: 
 
 STEWED BEETS. 
 
 Boil some beets. Then peel and cut them into 
 slices. Stew them for a quarter of an hour with 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour, some onion and 
 parsley chopped fine, a little vinegar, salt and pep- 
 per, and a clove of garlic. 
 
 STEWED CARROTS. 
 
 Scrape and wash your carrots. Scald them in 
 boiling water ; then drain them, and cut them into 
 long slips. Stew them in milk or cream, with a 
 little salt, pepper, and chopped parsley. When 
 done, take them out, stir into the sauce the yolks 
 of one or two eggs, and a lump or two of loaf- 
 sugar, and pour it over the carrots. 
 
 STEWED CABBAGE. 
 
 Having washed your cabbage, cut it in four, 
 and throw it into boiling water with some salt. 
 
VEGETABLES. 67 
 
 When it has boiled till quite tender, take it up, 
 squeeze out the water, and put the cabbage to 
 drain. Then lay it in a stew-pan with butter, salt, 
 pepper, nutmeg, a spoonful of flour, and half a 
 pint of cream. Stew it a quarter of an hour, and 
 pour the sauce over it when you send it to table. 
 Cauliflowers may be stewed in the same maimer 
 
 STEWED PEAS. 
 
 Take two quarts of green peas ; put them into 
 a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
 bunch of parsley, and the heart of a fine lettuce 
 cut in pieces, a bunch of mint, three or four lumps 
 of sugar, some salt and pepper, and a very little 
 water. Stir all together, set it on coals and let it 
 stew gently for an hour or an hour and a half. 
 Having taken out the parsley, add a piece of but- 
 ter rolled in flour ; and stir in the yolks of two 
 eggs just before you send it to table. 
 
 You may, if you choose, put in the lettuce with- 
 out cutting it in pieces ; tie it up with the bunch 
 of parsley and two onions, and withdraw the 
 whole before you dish the peas. Serve up the let- 
 tuce in another dish. 
 
 STEWED BEANS. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan some parsley and some 
 chives or little onions chopped fine, some mush- 
 rooms (if you have them) chopped also, and a 
 large piece of butter rolled in flour. Add a glass 
 of white wine and a little water. Stir all together, 
 and then put in as many beans as will fill a quart 
 measure when strung and cut small ; having first 
 soaked them a quarter of an hour in cold water. 
 Let them stew gently on hot coals till quite tender. 
 Just before you serve them up, stir in the yolks of 
 
68 VEGETABLES. 
 
 two eggs. You may substitute for the wine a 
 tumbler of cream, but it must be stirred in at the 
 last. 
 
 STEWED ONIONS. 
 
 Boil some small onions with salt, and then drain 
 hem. Lay them in a stew-pan with a piece of 
 Dutter, and sprinkle them with flour, pepper and 
 salt. Pour on them some cream, and then turn 
 every onion with a spoon. Stew them ten minutes, 
 and serve them up. 
 
 ONIONS STEWED IN WINE. 
 
 Boil twenty or thirty onions a quarter of an 
 hour with a bunch of sweet herbs, some salt, a 
 few cloves, and a laurel leaf. Then take out the 
 onions, and put them into a stew-pan with some 
 salt, a piece of butter rolled in flour, and a pint of 
 red wine. Stew them another quarter of an hour, 
 and serve them up garnished with pieces of toast 
 dipped in the sauce. 
 
 STEWED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Having peeled and washed your mushrooms, 
 drain them, and stew them with butter, pepper, 
 salt, and a little chopped parsley, adding a little 
 flour and warm water. When they are done, stir 
 into the sauce the yolks of two or three eggs, and 
 some cream. Toast and butter a slice of bread. 
 Lay it on the dish under the mushrooms, and pour 
 the sauce over them. 
 
 Put in a small onion with the mushrooms, that 
 you may know by its turning almost black, whether 
 there is a poisonous one among them. If the onion 
 turns black, throw away all the mushrooms. 
 
VEGETABLES. 69 
 
 STEWED POTATOES. 
 
 Boil eight or nine large potatoes with a little 
 salt, and then peel and cut them in slices. Put 
 into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, a spoonful 
 of flour, some salt, and half a grated nutmeg. Add 
 a half-pint of cream, and mix all together. When 
 this sauce boils, put in your sliced potatoes, and let 
 them stew a quarter of an hour. 
 
 STEWED POTATOES WITH TURNIPS. 
 
 Pare and boil an equal quantity of turnips and 
 potatoes. When done, drain and mash them. Melt 
 some butter in a stew-pan, and add to it a little 
 mustard. Stew the mixed potatoes and turnips in 
 it, with a small quantity of hot milk, for about ten 
 minutes. 
 
 ASPARAGUS WITH CREAM. 
 
 Wash and boil four or five bundles of asparagus. 
 Have ready a pint of cream, or a pint of milk, 
 with the yolks of six eggs stirred into it. Take 
 four large rolls of bread, and cut a round piece out 
 of the top of each. Scoop out the crumb from 
 the inside of the rolls, and put it into the cream 
 with the heads of the asparagus, of which you 
 must save out a sufficient number (with a small 
 piece of the stalk left on each) to stick the rolls 
 with. Make holes in the top-pieces of the rolls. 
 
 Fry the rolls in butter. Put the most of the 
 asparagus heads into the cream mixed with the 
 crumb of the rolls, and simmer it awhile over a 
 slow fire. When the rolls are fried, fill their cavi- 
 ties with the mixture. Stick the tops with the re- 
 mainder of the asparagus, and lay them on the 
 rolls. 
 
70 VEGETABLES. 
 
 Asparagus may be simply boiled with salt, and 
 served up on toasted bread dipped in oil, and eaten 
 with oil sauce. 
 
 POTATOES STEWED WHOLE. 
 
 Boil two dozen small new potatoes, with some 
 salt. Put into a stew-pan a piece of butter rolled 
 in flour, half the peel of a lemon grated, half a 
 nutmeg grated, some salt, two or three lumps of 
 sugar, and three tea-spoonfuls of sweet oil. Lay 
 the potatoes in this mixture, squeeze over them 
 the juice of a lemon, and let them stew gently 
 about ten minutes. 
 
 FRIED POTATOES. 
 
 Make a batter with the yolks of three eggs, a 
 little salt, a table-spoonful of oil, a table-spoonful 
 of brandy, and sufficient flour or grated bread to 
 thicken it. Have ready some large cold potatoes 
 cut in slices. Dip each slice in the batter, and fry 
 them in butter. 
 
 FRIED CAULIFLOWER. 
 
 Wash a fine large cauliflower, and cut it into 
 quarters. Having boiled some water with salt, 
 throw the cauliflower into it, and boil it till you 
 can nip it easily with your fingers. Take it out 
 and drain it. Then put it into a pan with salt, 
 pepper and vinegar, and let it lie half an hour, 
 turning it frequently. 
 
 Make the following batter, which must be pre- 
 pared half an hour or more before it is wanted, 
 that it may have time to rise. Take three table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, three beaten eggs, a table- 
 spoonful of butter melted in a little warm water, 
 a spoonful of sweet oil, and a spoonful of brandy 
 
VEGETABLES. 71 
 
 Stir all together ; and if you find it too thin, add a 
 little more flour ; cover it, and let it set half an 
 hour. Then beat to a stiff froth the whites of the 
 eggs, and stir them hard into the batter. Dip your 
 quarters of cauliflower into this mixture, and fry 
 them of a fine light brown. 
 
 When the cauliflower is done, let it remain in 
 the pan a quarter of an hour before you send it to 
 table. Lay fried parsley round it. 
 
 Broccoli may be fried in the same manner. 
 
 FRIED CELERY. 
 
 Take ten or twelve fine stalks of celery. Cut 
 them into pieces about six inches long, and lay 
 them an hour in salt and water. Drain them, 
 spread them on a dish, and sprinkle them with 
 powdered sugar. Make a batter of eggs, milk, 
 and grated bread ; allowing four eggs to a pint of 
 milk. Dip each piece of celery into the batter, and 
 fry them in butter. 
 
 BROILED MUSHROOMS.* 
 
 Peel, wash, and drain your mushrooms, and 
 then cut them in pieces. Make a square case of 
 white paper, and butter it well. Fill it with the 
 mushrooms mixed with butter, salt, and pepper. 
 Broil them on the gridiron over a clear fire, and 
 serve them up in the paper. 
 
 If you choose, you may mix with the mush 
 rooms some chopped onion and sweet-herbs. 
 
 * In gathering mushrooms, take only those that are of a pale 
 pink color underneath, and a dull white or pearl color on the top. 
 Those that are perfectly white above, or whose under side is white, 
 yellow, or any color but pale pink, are unfit to eat, and poisonous. 
 
 After being gathered awhile, the pink tinge changes to brown, 
 but it always appears on the good ones while in the ground. 
 
72 VEGETABLES. 
 
 STUFFED CABBAGE. (Choux farcis.) 
 
 Take a large cabbage, with a hard full head ; 
 put it into boiling water with some salt, and let it 
 boil from five to ten minutes. Then take it out 
 and drain it. Cut off the stalk close to the bottom, 
 so that the cabbage may stand upright on the dish, 
 and then carefully take out the inside leaves or 
 heart ; leaving the outside leaves whole. 
 
 Chop fine what you have taken out of the inside, 
 and chop also some cold ham and veal, or cold 
 chicken. Likewise four eggs boiled hard. Mix 
 together the chopped eggs, the ham and veal, the 
 cabbage heart, and some grated bread, adding 
 salt and pepper. Fill the cabbage with this stuff- 
 ing, and tie tape round it to keep the outside leaves 
 together. Then put it into a deep stew-pan, with 
 a quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour, and 
 an onion stuck full of cloves. Let it simmer over 
 a slow fire for two hours or more. 
 
 When it is done, take off the tape, set the cab- 
 bage upright in a dish, and pour melted butter 
 over it. 
 
 Lettuce may be done in the same manner. 
 
 STUFFED POTATOES. 
 
 Take eight very large potatoes, wash and pare 
 them. Make a small slit or incision in each of 
 them, and scoop out carefully with a knife as 
 much of the inside as will leave all round a shell 
 about the thickness of two cents. Then make a 
 force-meat of the substance you have taken out of 
 the inside, mixing it with two minced onions, a 
 small piece of minced cold ham or pork, about 
 two ounces of butter, and a little parsley ; adding 
 
VEGETABLES. 73 
 
 the yolks of two or three beaten eggs. Mix the 
 stuffing thoroughly, by pounding it in a mortar. 
 
 Butter the inside of the potatoes, and fill them 
 with this mixture. Then having buttered a large 
 dish, lay your potatoes in it separately. Bake 
 them half an hour, or till they are of a fine brown. 
 
 When you mash potatoes, moisten them with 
 milk or cream, adding a little salt. Heap them up 
 on the dish in the form of a pyramid. Smooth the 
 sides of the pyramid with the back of a spoon, 
 and brown it by holding over it a red-hot shovel. 
 
 STUFFED CUCUMBERS. 
 
 Cut off one end of each of the cucumbers, and 
 scoop out all the seeds with a fork. Then pare 
 them. Prepare a stuffing made of bread crumbs, 
 cold meat minced, salt, pepper, and sweet-herbs. 
 Fill your cucumbers with it, and fasten on with a 
 skewer the pieces you have cut off from their 
 ends. Sow up every one separately in a thin 
 cloth. Put them into a pan with butter, flour, a 
 bunch of sweet-herbs, and a little warm water 
 Let them stew very slowly for about two hours, 
 and then take them out. Remove the cloths, and 
 serve up the cucumbers with the sauce under them. 
 
 STUFFED TOMATAS. 
 
 Scoop out the inside of a dozen large tomatas, 
 without spoiling their shape. Pass the inside 
 through a sieve, and then mix it with grated 
 bread, chopped sweet-herbs, nutmeg, salt, and 
 pepper. Stew it ten minutes, with a laurel leaf, 
 or two peach leaves. Remove the leaves, and 
 stuff the tomatas with the mixture, tying a string 
 round each to keep them in shape. Sprinkle them 
 G 
 
74 VEGETABLES. 
 
 all over with rasped bread-crust. Set them in a 
 buttered dish, and bake them in an oven. Take 
 off the strings, and serve up the tomatas. 
 
 Egg-plants may be cooked in the same manner. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS WITH CHEESE. 
 
 Having washed and boiled your cauliflowers in 
 salt and water, drain them well. Make a white 
 sauce in a small pan, with butter rolled in flour, 
 and a little milk. Pour some of this sauce into the 
 bottom of a dish that will bear the fire. Chop your 
 cauliflower, and spread a layer of it on the sauce. 
 Then cover it with a layer of rich cheese, grated 
 and slightly sprinkled with pepper. Then spread 
 on the remainder of the cauliflower, and then 
 another layer of peppered cheese, and so on till 
 your dish is nearly full. Pour over it the rest of 
 the sauce. Prepare two or three handfuls of gra- 
 ted bread, mixed with a little of the grated cheese. 
 Spread it all over the surface of the last layer of 
 cauliflower, and smooth it with the back of a 
 spoon. Allow a quarter of a pound of cheese to 
 each cauliflower. 
 
 Put the dish in a slow oven about a quarter of 
 an hour before you serve it up, and bake it till a 
 brown crust forms on the outside. Clear off the 
 butter from the edges of the dish, and send it to 
 table hot. 
 
 Broccoli may be done in the same manner. 
 
 RAGOOED CABBAGE. 
 
 Wash a fine savoy cabbage, and boil it for half 
 an hour in salt and water. Then take it out, drain 
 it, and lay it for ten minutes in cold water. Af- 
 
VEGETABLES. 75 
 
 terwards squeeze and drain it well, and take out 
 the stalk. Chop the cabbage slightly, and put it 
 into a stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 and add two table-spoonfuls of flour. Season it 
 with salt and pepper, and moisten it with a little 
 water. Let it stew slowly for an hour, and then 
 serve it up. 
 
 Cauliflowers or broccoli may be done in the 
 same manner. 
 
 RAGOOED MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Take a pint of fresh mushrooms. When they 
 are peeled and the stalks cut off, put the mush- 
 rooms into a stew-pan with two table-spoonfuls of 
 vinegar, a sprig or two of parsley, a small onion, 
 a few chives chopped fine, some salt, pepper, and 
 grated nutmeg. Let it boil gently for a quarter of 
 'in hour. Before it goes to table, stir in the yolks 
 of two eggs. 
 
 If the onion has turned blue or black, throw the 
 whole away, as it is evident that some poisonous 
 ones are among the mushrooms. 
 
76 PUREES. 
 
 PUREES. 
 
 The word Puree cannot be exactly translated, 
 as there is nothing in the English language that 
 gives precisely the same idea. In French it is 
 generally applied to a certain manner of cooking 
 vegetables that converts them into a substance 
 resembling marmalade, which, when the coarser 
 parts are strained out, leaves a fine smooth jelly. 
 
 It is served up with meat. 
 
 PUREE OF TURNIPS. 
 
 Wash and pare some of the finest turnips. Cut 
 them into small pieces, and let them lie for half an 
 hour in cold water. Then take them out and drain 
 them. Put them into a stew-pan, with a large 
 piece of butter and some salt and pepper. Moist- 
 en them with a little broth or boiling water. Let 
 them stew over a very slow fire, for five or six 
 hours, stirring them frequently. Then rub them 
 through a sieve, and serve up the jelly with roast 
 meat. 
 
 PUREE OF CELERY. 
 
 Wash your celery, peel it, and stew it s.owly 
 for three or four hours, with salt, and a very little 
 water. Then pass it through a sieve, and season 
 it with pepper, salt, and nutmeg to your taste. 
 
 PUREE OF ONIONS. 
 
 Take thirty onions ; cut them in slices and put 
 them into a stew-pan, with a little salt, pepper, and 
 
PUREES. 77 
 
 a grated nutmeg. Let them stew slowly till they 
 are of a fine brown color, and then add a table- 
 spoonful of broth or warm water. 
 
 When it has attained the proper consistence, 
 strain it and serve it up. 
 
 PUREE OF MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Peel a pint of mushrooms, cut them in pieces, and 
 put them in a pan with as much cold water as will 
 keep them from burning. Throw in with them a 
 small onion to test their goodness ; as, if there is a 
 bad or poisonous one among them, the onion will 
 turn of a bluish black while cooking. In that case, 
 throw them all away. 
 
 Stew them slowly till they have lost all shape 
 and have become an undistinguishable mass. Then 
 strain them. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan a large piece of butter, or a 
 spoonful of flour, and two lumps of sugar. Add 
 your puree, and let it stew again for about five 
 minutes. When you take it off the fire, stir in the 
 yolks of two eggs slightly. beaten, and a spoonful 
 of cream or rich milk. Put it in the middle of a 
 dish, and lay round it thin slices of fried bread or 
 toast. 
 
 PUREE OF BEANS. 
 
 Having strung and cut your beans till you have 
 a quart, throw them into boiling water, with a 
 little salt. Let them remain a quarter of an hour. 
 Then drain them, and throw into cold water to 
 green them. After they have lain half an hour in 
 the cold water, take them out and drain them 
 again. 
 
 G2 
 
78 PUREES. 
 
 Put a large piece of butter into a stew-pan with 
 some pepper, a little salt, and a spoonful of flour. 
 Add your beans, and cover them with broth or 
 warm water. Put in a bunch of sweet-herbs cut 
 small, and stew the whole very slowly till it has 
 dissolved into a mass. Then strain it. Put a 
 piece of butter into the puree, and serve it up. 
 
 PUREE OF GREEN PEAS. 
 
 Take a quart of shelled green peas. Wash them, 
 and put them into a stew-pan with water enough 
 to cover them, a little salt and pepper, a piece of 
 butter the size of a walnut, a laurel leaf or a 
 couple of peach-leaves, and a bunch of mint. 
 
 Let them stew very slowly ; and if necessary 
 moisten them occasionally with a little warm water 
 or broth. Stir them frequently, that they may not 
 stick to the pan. When they become of the con- 
 sistence of marmalade, strain it. Chop an onion 
 fine, fry it in butter, and have it ready to mix with 
 the puree. 
 
 Dried split peas may be made into a puree in 
 the same manner. 
 
 Purees may be made in a similar manner of dif- 
 ferent sorts of meat, poultry &c. seasoned, stewed 
 slowly to a jelly, then strained through a cullender 
 or sieve, and taken as soups. 
 
EGGS. 79 
 
 EGGS, &c. 
 
 In choosing eggs, hold them up against the light, 
 and if you see that the yolk is round, and the white 
 thin and clear, you may suppose them to be good. 
 But if the yolk appears to be broken and mixed 
 with the white, giving it a thick cloudy look, you 
 may be sure that the egg is bad. Eggs may be 
 preserved by keeping them in a keg of lime-water, 
 or by greasing each egg all over with dripping, 
 and putting them into a tight vessel rilled with 
 wood-ashes, placing them all with their small ends 
 downwards. You may also keep them by burying 
 them in salt. Still they are never so good as when 
 quite fresh. 
 
 When you break eggs for use, do every one 
 separately, in a saucer. If you find the egg good, 
 throw it into the pan in which they are to be 
 beaten. If you meet with a bad one, throw it 
 away and wash the saucer or get a clean one. A 
 single bad egg will make the whole mixture heavy, 
 spungy, and of an unpleasant taste. 
 
 BOILED EGGS. 
 
 When the water boils hard, put in the eggs, and 
 let them boil exactly three minutes. Then take 
 them out, and cover them up for about a minute, 
 which will greatly improve them. Send them to 
 table wrapped in a napkin, and laid in a deep dish. 
 
 FRIED EGGS. 
 
 Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan. When 
 it ceases to hiss, put in the yolks only of your 
 
80 EGGS. 
 
 eggs. Season them with pepper and salt. When 
 fried, color them by holding over them a red-hot 
 shovel. 
 
 STEWED EGGS. 
 
 Melt some butter in a dish that will bear the fire. 
 Add to it salt, and nutmeg, and a little milk in the 
 proportion of a table-spoonful to each egg. Mix 
 them well together. Then lay over it the yolks of 
 your eggs, first ascertaining that they are all good. 
 Let it stew over a slow fire for a few minutes ; and 
 color it by holding over it a red-hot shovel. The 
 eggs must not be allowed to get hard, but the sur- 
 face should be soft and perfectly smooth and even. 
 
 Before you put in the eggs, you may stir into 
 the mixture some heads of boiled asparagus. 
 
 STUFFED EGGS. 
 
 Boil twelve eggs hard. Take off the shell, and 
 cut each egg in half. Take out the yolks, and 
 pound them in a mortar with a quarter of a 
 pound of butter ; a nutmeg ; some grated bread 
 that has been soaked in milk; a little salt; and 
 if you choose, some minced sweet-herbs. Fill 
 the whites of the eggs with this stuffing, heaping it 
 up, and smoothing it into a round even shape. 
 Butter a dish, and spread over the inside a thin 
 layer of the stuffing. Arrange in it all your halves 
 of eggs, the bottoms downwards. Put them into an 
 oven, the lid of which must be hot. Let them set 
 about five minutes, and then send them to table. 
 
 EGG SNOW. 
 
 Take a quart of milk, and stir into it two spoon- 
 fuls of rose-water, and a quarter of a pound of 
 
PANCAKES OMELETS. 81 
 
 white sugar, with a powdered nutmeg. Add by- 
 degrees the yolks of twelve eggs well beaten. Boil 
 the whole together, stirring it all the time, so as to 
 make a thick smooth custard. If you keep it too 
 long on the fire, it will be lumpy. Set it away to 
 get cold in a deep dish. Beat the whites of the 
 eggs to a stiff' froth that will stand alone, adding 
 to it twelve drops of essence of lemon. Heap it 
 on the dish of custard so as to look like a pile of 
 snow ; or you may drop it with a large spoon, so 
 as to form separate balls. On the top of each ball 
 you may lay a tea-spoonful of stiff currant-jelly. 
 
 PANCAKES. 
 
 Beat together a quart of sifted flour, six eggs, a 
 table-spoonful of brandy, a grated nutmeg, a little 
 salt, and sufficient water to make a thin batter. 
 Melt a piece of butter in a frying-pan, or substi- 
 tute a little sweet-oil. Pour in a ladleful of the 
 batter, and let it spread into a circular form. When 
 it is slightly brown on one side, turn it carefully 
 on the other. Serve them up with white sugar 
 grated over each. 
 
 You may color them pink, by stirring into the 
 mixture some of the juice of a beet-root, which has 
 been boiled and then beaten in a mortar. 
 
 OMELETS. 
 
 Cheese Omelet — Grate some rich cheese, and 
 mix it gradually with your eggs while beating 
 them. Season with salt and pepper. Melt some 
 butter in a frying-pan. Put in your omelet, and 
 fry it first on one side, and then on the other. 
 When you dish it up, fold it over in half. 
 
82 MACCARONI MACCARONI PIE. 
 
 Bread Omelet. — Put two handfuls or more of 
 bread crumbs into half a pint of cream, with a 
 grated nutmeg and a little salt. When the bread 
 has absorbed all the cream, stir it into the eggs as 
 you beat them for the omelet. Fry it in butter, 
 and when dished, fold one half over the other. 
 
 Lobster Omelet. — Beat in a mortar the flesh of a 
 boiled lobster, adding, at times, a little butter ; and 
 season it with pepper and salt. Stir it gradually 
 into the eggs while beating them. Fry it in butter. 
 
 Onion Omelet. — Boil some onions; mince them 
 fine, and moisten them with milk. Stir them into 
 the eggs as you beat them. 
 i 
 
 Ham Omelet — Is made with grated cold ham, 
 stirred into the eggs while beating. 
 
 Omelets may be seasoned in the same manner 
 with parsley, chopped sweet-herbs, or mushrooms. 
 Also with minced oysters. 
 
 MACCARONI. 
 
 Boil half a pound of maccaroni with two ounces 
 of butter, some whole pepper, and a little salt. Do 
 not let it boil long enough for the maccaroni to 
 lose its shape. When done, mix with it a quarter 
 of a pound of rich cheese, scraped or grated. But- 
 ter a deep dish, and put the mixture into it. Then 
 set it for a quarter of an hour in the oven. Brown 
 the top with a red-hot shovel. 
 
 MACCARONI PIE. 
 
 Take half a pound of maccaroni, and put it into 
 a stew-pan with an ounce of butter, a little salt 
 
BLANCMANGE IN EGGS. 83 
 
 and pepper, and water enough to cover it. Stew 
 it till dry. Then grate a quarter of a pound of 
 fine cheese, and mix it with the maccaroni, adding 
 another ounce of butter. Set it away to get cold. 
 Take another pan, which must be very deep, 
 with a flat bottom, and nearly the shape of a drum. 
 Butter the inside. Make a good paste, and cover 
 with it the whole interior of the pan, sides and 
 bottom. Put in the maccaroni. Cover the pie with 
 a lid of paste. Bake it at least half an hour. When 
 done, loosen it from the pan and turn it out on a 
 dish. It will be in the form of a drum, if the pan 
 was of that shape. 
 
 BLANCMANGE IN EGGS. 
 
 Take two ounces of shelled sweet almonds, and 
 one ounce of shelled bitter almonds. Blanch them 
 by throwing them into scalding water to make the 
 skins peel off easily ; then put them in cold water ; 
 wipe them dry afterwards, and pound them in a 
 mortar, adding at times a little rose-water. 
 
 Dissolve an ounce of isinglass in warm water, 
 and then stir it into a quart of cream. Add a quar- 
 ter of a pound of broken loaf-sugar, and a wine- 
 glass of rose-water. Boil it hard for a quarter of 
 an hour, and stir it all the time. Then strain it 
 through a linen bag, and put it into egg-cups, or 
 into the halves of egg-shells nicely and evenly 
 trimmed, and set it away in a cold place to 
 congeal. 
 
 Have ready some calves-feet jelly (made ac- 
 cording to the directions given in the article 
 "Chickens in Jelly"); and when the blancmange is 
 firm, take out a small piece from the middle of 
 each cupful, and replace it with a lump of the jelly, 
 put in so as to look like the yolk of the egg. Or 
 if more convenient, you need not put in the jelly 
 
84 BLANCMANGE IN EGGS. 
 
 till you have taken the blancmange out of the cups 
 or egg-shells, which must be done by wetting the 
 moulds with warm water on the outside. 
 
 The jelly for this purpose must be very high- 
 colored, by means of brandy, or dark sweet wine. 
 
 If nicely managed, the blancmange and jelly 
 will look like eggs cut in half. Lay them in a 
 circle round a dish that contains something high 
 and ornamental, — for instance, a pyramid of ice- 
 cream. 
 
PART THE SIXTH. 
 
 H 
 
PASTRY, CAKES, &< 
 
 FRENCH PASTE. 
 
 Sift a quart of flour, and lay it in a pan. Make 
 a hole in the middle, and put into it the white of an 
 egg slightly beaten, a piece of butter the size of an 
 egg, and a very little salt. Pour in gradually as 
 much cold water as will moisten it. Mix it well 
 with your hands, as rapidly as possible, and see 
 that no lumps are left in it. Set it away to cool, 
 and in a quarter of an hour roll it out, and spread 
 over it half a pound of butter which has been kept 
 in ice. Then fold up the paste with the four sides 
 laid one over another, so as entirely to inclose the 
 butter, and set it for half an hour in a cool place. 
 Then roll it again ; fold it, and give it another roll. 
 Set it away again ; and in half an hour roll it out 
 twice more, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 PUFF PASTE. 
 
 May be made with a pound of butter, and a 
 pound and a quarter of sifted flour. The butter 
 must be washed in cold water, and then squeezed 
 very hard, and made up into a lump. Divide it 
 into eight parts. Mix one part of the butter with 
 the flour, adding just enough of water to moisten it. 
 Roll it out ; spread over it a second portion of the 
 butter ; flour it ; fold it up, and roll it out again, 
 adding another division of the butter. Repeat this 
 till you get in all the butter, a piece at a time, fold- 
 ing and rolling the paste with each separate por- 
 tion of the butter. Then set it away to cool. If it 
 
88 PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 
 
 sets several hours, it will be the better for it ; anci 
 better still if the paste is made the night before it 
 is wanted ; always keeping it in a cold place. 
 
 While buttering and rolling, do every thing as 
 quickly as possible. 
 
 Before you put it into the dishes, roll it out once 
 more. It is difficult in warm weather to make 
 good puff paste without a marble table, or slab, to 
 roll it on. 
 
 CREAM TARTS. 
 
 Mix together a quart of flour, half a pound of 
 butter, a little salt, and two beaten eggs. Add a 
 little cold water ; make it into a paste, and set it 
 away to cool. Then roll it out again. Cut it into 
 round shapes with the edge of a tumbler. Lay 
 round each a rim made of an even strip of the 
 paste, and notch it handsomely. Bake them for a 
 quarter of an hour, and then take them from the 
 oven. Beat together a pint of cream, four eggs, 
 and four table-spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Fill 
 the tarts with this mixture, grate nutmeg over each, 
 and bake them again for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 ALMOND TARTS. 
 
 Blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds 
 and three ounces of shelled bitter almonds. Beat 
 them, a few at a time, in a mortar, mixing them 
 well, and adding at times a little rose-water. 
 When done, mix with them a quarter of a pound 
 of loaf-sugar powdered, and the juice and grated 
 peel of half a lemon. 
 
 Have ready some fine paste. Cut it into circular 
 pieces about the size and thickness of a dollar. 
 Put into each piece of paste some of the almond 
 
PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 89 
 
 mixture, heaping it up in the centre. Cover them 
 with lids of the same, and crimp the edges very 
 neatly. Bake them about half an hour, and grate 
 sugar over them when done. 
 
 RISSOLES. 
 
 Make some fine paste, and cut it out with the 
 edge of a tumbler. Have ready some minced 
 veal, seasoned in the best manner, or some chopped 
 oysters, or any sort of force-meat, and lay some 
 of it on one half of each piece of paste. Then 
 turn over it the other half, so as to inclose the 
 meat. Crimp the edges. Put some butter into a 
 frying-pan. Lay the rissoles into it, and fry them 
 of a light brown. 
 
 They should be in the shape of a half-moon. 
 
 ALMOND CUSTARDS. 
 
 Blanch and pound in a mortar half a pound of 
 shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of peach- 
 kernels, or shelled bitter almonds, adding sufficient 
 rose-water to moisten them. When they are all 
 pounded to a paste, mix with them a quarter of a 
 pound of powdered loaf-sugar, and boil them in a 
 quart of milk or cream. Then set it away to cook 
 When cold, stir eight beaten eggs into it. Put the 
 mixture into cups. Set them in an iron oven half 
 filled with water, and bake them. 
 
 VANILLA CUSTARDS. 
 
 Cut a vanilla bean into slips, and boil them in a 
 quart of milk, with a quarter of a pound of white 
 sugar. Let it boil slowly for a quarter of an hour, 
 112 
 
90 PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 
 
 and then set it away to cool. When cold, stir into 
 it eight beaten eggs, having left out the whites of 
 four. Put the mixture into cups, set them in water 
 and bake them. Color them when done, by hold- 
 ing over them a red-hot shovel. When cold, grate 
 on sugar. 
 
 Lemon Custards are made in the same manner ; 
 substituting for the vanilla bean the grated rind of 
 a large fresh lemon. 
 
 CHOCOLATE CUSTARDS. 
 
 Cut into pieces half a pound of the best choco- 
 late. Pour on it sufficient milk to prevent its burn- 
 ing, and let it boil ten minutes. After you remove 
 it from the fire, have ready a pint of boiling milk 
 or cream, and pour it on the chocolate. Beat to- 
 gether the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of 
 two only, and stir them into the chocolate with 
 two ounces, or more, of loaf-sugar. Put the mix- 
 ture into cups, set them in an oven with water in 
 it, and bake them. Beat the six remaining whites 
 of eggs to a froth, adding a very little sugar, and 
 heap some of the froth on each custard. You may 
 lay on the top of each heap of froth one of the 
 bonbons or confections called chocolate-nuts. 
 
 COFFEE CUSTARDS. 
 
 Take two ounces of roasted coffee and two 
 ounces of raw coffee. Pound them together in a 
 mortar, but do not grind them. Boil this coffee in 
 a quart of rich milk. Let it get cold, and then 
 strain it. Stir into it two ounces of powdered loaf- 
 sugar, and two large spoonfuls of cream. Beat 
 eight eggs, omitting the whites of four. Stir them 
 
PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 91 
 
 gradually into the coffee. Put it into cups, and 
 bake the custards in an oven with water. Grate 
 white sugar over the tops when cold. 
 
 TEA CUSTARDS. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream or rich milk, and pour it 
 (while boiling) on three ounces of the best green 
 tea. Add two ounces of loaf sugar. Cover it and 
 set it away. Take eight eggs, and beat them well, 
 leaving out the whites of four ; and when the tea 
 is cold, stir in the eggs. Then strain the whole 
 mixture ; put it into cups, and bake them in an 
 oven with water. Grate sugar over the top of each. 
 
 RICE POTTAGE. 
 
 Put six table-spoonfuls of rice into a pint of 
 water, and boil it till quite soft. Drain it through 
 a sieve, and put the rice into a quart of milk with 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar, and three or four 
 peach-leaves, or a few peach-kernels. Boil it, and 
 before you serve it up, take out the peach-leaves 
 or kernels, and stir in the yolks of two eggs. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS. 
 
 Pare and core some fine large pippins, and cut 
 them into round slices. Soak them in brandy for 
 two or three hours. Make a batter, in the pro- 
 portion of four eggs to a table-spoonful of olive- 
 oil, a table spoonful of rose-water, the same quan- 
 tity of ^brandy, the same quantity of cold water. 
 Thicken the batter with a sufficient quantity of 
 flour stirred in by degrees, and mix it two or three 
 
92 PASTRY, CAKES, &C 
 
 hours before it is wanted, that it may be light by 
 fermentation. 
 
 Put some butter into a frying-pan. Dip each 
 slice of apple into the batter, and fry them brown. 
 Then drain them, grate white sugar over them, 
 and send them to table. 
 
 Peach Fritters may be made in the same way, 
 but the peaches must be cut into quarters. 
 
 BREAD FRITTERS. 
 
 Boil a quart of milk with cinnamon and sugar 
 to your taste. When done, stir in a table-spoonful 
 of rose-water. Cut some slices of bread into a 
 circular shape. Soak them in the milk till they 
 have absorbed it. Then drain them. Have ready 
 some yolks of eggs well beaten. Dip the slices of 
 bread into it, and fry them in butter. Serve them 
 up strewed with powdered sugar. 
 
 RICE CAKE. 
 
 Take half a pound of rice and wash it well. 
 Put it into a pint of cream or milk, and boil it 
 soft. Let it get cold. Then stir into it alternately 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar, two ounces of but- 
 ter, eight eggs well beaten (having left out the 
 whites of four), and a wine-glass of rose-water, 01 
 else the grated peel of a lemon. Mix all well. 
 Butter a mould or a deep pan with straight sides, 
 and spread grated bread crumbs all over its inside 
 Put in the mixture, and bake it three quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 Ground rice is best for this cake. 
 
 If any of the cake is left, you may next day 
 cut it in slices and fry them in butter. 
 
 Or, instead of baking the mixture in a large 
 
PASTRY, CAKES, &C 93 
 
 cake, you may put flour on your hands, and roll 
 it into round balls. Make a batter of beaten eggs, 
 sugar, and grated bread ; dip the balls into it, and 
 fry them in butter. 
 
 POTATO CAKE. 
 
 Roast in the ashes a dozen small or six large 
 potatoes. When done, peel them, and put them 
 into a pan with a little salt, and the rind of a 
 lemon grated. Add a quarter of a pound of but- 
 ter, or half a pint of cream, and a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar. Having mashed the potatoes 
 with this mixture, rub it through a cullender, and 
 stir it very hard. Then set it away to cool. 
 
 Beat eight eggs, and stir them gradually into 
 the mixture. Season it with a tea-spoonful of 
 mixed spice, and half a glass of rose-water. 
 
 Butter a mould or a deep dish, and spread the 
 inside all over with grated bread. Put in the mix- 
 ture, and bake it for three quarters of an hour. 
 
 SPONGE CAKE— CALLED IN FRANCE BISCUIT. 
 
 Take ten eggs, and beat them till very thick 
 and smooth. Add gradually a pound of powdered 
 loaf-sugar. Rub a lump of loaf-sugar all over 
 the rind of a large lemon, to draw the juice to the 
 surface ; then grate the peel of the lemon, and stir 
 it into the mixture, together with the lump of 
 sugar. Squeeze in the juice of the lemon, and add 
 two table-spoonfuls of rose-water. Beat the mix- 
 ture very hard ; then take half a pound of potato 
 flour (which is best), or else of fine wheat flour, 
 and stir it in very lightly and slowly. It must be 
 baked immediately. 
 
 Have ready some small square or oblong cases 
 of thick white paper, with an edge turned up all 
 
94 PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 
 
 round, and sewed at the corners. They should be 
 about a finger in length, half a finger in breadth, 
 and an inch and a half in depth. Either butter 
 these paper-cases, or sift white sugar all over the 
 inside. Put some of the mixture into each case, 
 but do not fill them to the top. Grate loaf-sugar 
 over the top of each, and bake them quickly. 
 
 These cakes are much better when baked in 
 paper cases ; tins being generally too thick for 
 them. No cake requires greater care in baking. 
 If the oven is not hot enough, both at top and bot- 
 tom, they will fall and be heavy, and lose their 
 shape. 
 
 CROQUETTES. 
 
 Take a pound of powdered sugar, a pound of 
 butter, half a pound of wheat-flour, and half a pound 
 of Indian meal ; mix all together, and add the juice 
 and grated peel of a large lemon, with spice to 
 your taste. Make it into a lump of paste. Then 
 put it into a mortar, and beat it hard on all sides. 
 
 Roll it out thin, and cut it into cakes with the 
 edge of a tumbler, or with a tin cutter. 
 
 Flour a shallow tin pan. Lay the cakes into it, 
 but not close together. Bake them about ten 
 minutes. Grate sugar over them when done. 
 
 MARGUERITES. 
 
 Beat together till very light, a pound of butter 
 and a pound of powdered sugar. Sift a pound of 
 flour into a pan. Take the yolks only, of twelve 
 eggs, and beat them till very thick and smooth. 
 Pour them into the flour, and add the beaten butter 
 and sugar. Stir in a grated nutmeg, and a wine- 
 glass of rose-water. Mix the whole together, tih 
 it becomes a lump of dough. 
 
PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 95 
 
 Flour your paste-board, and lay the dougn upon 
 it ; sprinkle it with flour. Roll it out about half an 
 inch thick, and cut it into round cakes with the 
 edge of a cup. Flour a shallow pan, put in the 
 cakes (so as not to touch), and bake them about 
 five minutes in a quick oven. If the oven is too 
 cool, they will run. 
 
 When the cakes are cool, lay on each a large 
 lump of currant jelly. Take the whites of the eggs, 
 and beat them till they stand alone. Then add to 
 them, by degrees, sufficient powdered sugar to 
 make the consistence of icing, and ten drops of 
 strong essence of lemon. Heap on each cake, 
 with a spoon, a pile of the icing over the currant- 
 jelly. Set them in a cool oven till the icing be- 
 comes firm and of a pale brownish tint. 
 
 These cakes are very fine. 
 
 WAFERS. 
 
 Sift half a pound of flour into a pan. Make a 
 hole in the middle, and put in three beaten eggs, a 
 table-spoonful of brandy, a table-spoonful of pow- 
 dered sugar, a table-spoonful of sweet-oil, and a 
 very little salt, not more than will lie on a six- 
 pence. Mix all together, adding gradually a little 
 milk, till you have a batter about the thickness of 
 good cream. Then stir in a table-spoonful of rose- 
 water. Let there be no lumps in the batter. Heat 
 your wafer-iron on both sides, in a clear fire, but 
 do not allow it to get red-hot. Then grease the 
 inside with a brush dipped in sweet-oil, or a clean 
 rag with some butter tied up in it. Then put in 
 the batter, allowing about two table-spoonfuls to 
 each wafer. Close the iron, and in baking turn it 
 first on one side and then on the other. When 
 done, sprinkle the wafers with powdered sugar, 
 
96 PASTRY, CAKES, &C. 
 
 and roll each one up, pressing the edges together 
 while warm, so as to make them unite. 
 
 A little practice will soon show you the proper 
 degree of heat, and the time necessary for baking 
 the wafers. They should be but slightly colored, 
 and of an even tint all over. 
 
 GINGERBREAD. 
 
 Mix together two pounds of flour, one pound of 
 sugar, five beaten eggs, three quarters of a pound 
 of butter, and a tea-cupful of ginger. Put the flour 
 to the other ingredients, a little at a time, and stir 
 the whole very hard. Melt a tea-spoonful of sal 
 aratus or fine pearl-ash in a little sour milk, and 
 stir it in at the last. Roll the dough into sheets, 
 and cut it out with square tins. If not stiff enough 
 for rolling, add a little more flour. Lay it in but- 
 tered pans, and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
PART THE SEVENTH. 
 
PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &c. 
 
 AN APPLE CHARLOTTE. 
 
 Pare and core some fine pippins, and cut them 
 into small pieces. Melt some butter in the bottom 
 of a pan. Then lay your apples in it with a suf- 
 ficient proportion of sugar, beaten cinnamon or 
 nutmeg, and some rose-water or grated lemon- 
 peel. Set the pan in an oven, and let the apples 
 bake till they are quite soft. Then take them out 
 of the pan, and mash them to a marmalade with 
 the back of a spoon. 
 
 Cut some thin slices of bread into a triangular 
 or three-cornered shape, and dip them in melted 
 butter. Then butter a broad deep dish, and lay 
 the pieces of bread in the bottom of it, making the 
 points meet in the centre. Spread a thick layer 
 of apple all over the bread; then more bread, 
 covered with another layer of apple, and so on till 
 the dish is full ; having a cover of bread on the 
 top. Set it in the oven, and bake it slowly about a 
 quarter of an hour. 
 
 A very fine Charlotte may be made by substi- 
 tuting slices of spunge-cake for the bread, or hav- 
 ing square spunge-cakes laid round, leaving a hole 
 in the centre to be filled up with gooseberry jelly. 
 If you use spunge-cake, you need not put it in the 
 oven. 
 
 APPLE COMPOTE. 
 
 Pare and core some large pippins, but leave 
 them whole. Make a syrup by boiling and skim- 
 ming a pound of loaf-sugar melted in a gill of 
 
100 PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 
 
 water, into which the half of the white of an egg 
 has been beaten. When the syrup is quite clear, 
 boil the apples in it till soft and tender. Then take 
 them out, lay them in a deep dish, and fill up with 
 small sweet-meats or marmalade the holes from 
 whence you took the cores. 
 
 Boil the syrup again till it becomes a jelly. Pour 
 it hot over your apples, and set it in a cool place 
 to congeal. 
 
 The syrup will be much improved by adding to 
 it the juice of one or two lemons, or a dozen drops 
 of essence of lemon. 
 
 COMPOTE OF PEARS. 
 
 Pare them, but leave on the stems. Lay them 
 in a preserving-pan ; and to a dozen moderate- 
 sized pears, put half a pound of white sugar, a gill 
 of water, and a few sticks of cinnamon, with some 
 slips of lemon-peel. Simmer them till tender ; and 
 when half done, pour in a glass of port-wine. 
 When quite done, take out the pears and lay them 
 in a deep dish. Strain the syrup ; give it another 
 boil, and pour it over them. 
 
 COMPOTE OF CHESTNUTS. 
 
 Take some of the largest and finest chestnuts 
 Cut a slit in the shell of each, and roast them in a 
 charcoal furnace, taking care not to burn them. 
 When done, peel them and put them into a pan 
 with some powdered sugar, and a very little water. 
 Let them simmer over a slow fire for about a 
 quarter of an hour. When done, take them out, 
 put them into a dish, squeeze over them some 
 lemon-juice, and sprinkle them with powdered 
 sugar. . 
 
PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 101 
 
 FRIED APPLES. 
 
 Pare and core some of the largest and finest 
 pippins, and cut them into thin round slices. Mix 
 together in a deep dish some brandy, lemon-juice, 
 and powdered sugar. Lay the slices of apple in it, 
 and let them soak for several hours. Then drain 
 them, and dip each slice in flour. Put some butter 
 into a pan, and fry the apples of a fine brown. 
 Dish them, and grate loaf-sugar over them. 
 
 Quinces may be done in the same manner. So 
 also may peaches, but they must be cut in half. 
 
 PEACH MARMALADE. 
 
 Take ripe peaches ; pare them and cut them in 
 half, taking out the stones. Weigh them, and to 
 each pound of fruit allow half a pound of loaf- 
 sugar. Mash them with the sugar, and put them 
 in a preserving-kettle. Boil them slowly till they 
 become a shapeless mass, which will generally be 
 in about three quarters of an hour. Stir the mar- 
 malade frequently, to prevent its sticking to the 
 kettle. Blanch half the kernels, and cut them in 
 two ; and when the marmalade is about half done, 
 put them into it to give it a fine flavor. Take out 
 the kernels when the marmalade is cold, and then 
 tie it up in pots or glasses, laying over it paper 
 dipped in' brandy. 
 
 Marmalade of plums or green-gages may be 
 made in the same manner. 
 
 BRANDY PEACHES. 
 
 Take large yellow free-stone peaches; they must 
 not be too ripe. Wipe off the down with a flannel, and 
 then prick each peach to the stone with a large pin. 
 12 
 
102 PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 
 
 Put them into a pan, and scald them with boiling 
 water. Cover them, and let them rest for a few 
 minutes. This is to make them white. You may 
 repeat the scalding two or three times. Then take 
 them out to drain and dry. 
 
 Allow a pound of the best loaf-sugar to a dozen 
 large peaches. Put the sugar into a preserving- 
 kettle (lined with enamel or porcelain), and melt 
 it, allowing to each pound a gill of water, and half 
 the white of an egg. Boil the sugar, and skim it 
 till perfectly clear. Then put in the peaches, and 
 give them a boil. Take them off the fire, and let 
 them set in the syrup till next day. 
 
 The following morning take out the peaches, set 
 the syrup over the fire, and when it has boiled a 
 few minutes put in the peaches, and give them a 
 short boil. Then take them out, and let them get 
 cold. Boil down the syrup to half its original quan- 
 tity, but take care that it does not boil long enough 
 to congeal or become thick. Put the peaches into 
 a glass jar, and pour the syrup over them. Fill up 
 the jar with brandy, and cover it closely. 
 
 Apricots may be done in the same manner. Also 
 pears. The stemstmust be left on the pears. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY POTTAGE. 
 
 Stew two quarts of fine large gooseberries in 
 just sufficient water to cover them. When quite 
 soft and broken, mash them with the back of a 
 spoon, make them very sweet with sugar, and set 
 them away to get cold. Take three pints of rich 
 milk ; stir into it a pounded nutmeg and the yolks 
 of four eggs. Then set it over a bed of hot coals, 
 and let it simmer, stirring it gently all the time. 
 Before it comes to a boil, take it off the fire and 
 gradually stir in the gooseberries. It must be quite 
 
PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 103 
 
 cold before you serve it up. Send it to table in a 
 bowl, and eat spunge-cake with it. 
 
 It will be still nicer, if you use the pulp only of 
 the gooseberries, pressed through a sieve or cul- 
 lender 
 
 FRUIT JELLIES. 
 
 Previous to making your jelly, clarify the sugar, 
 which must be the best loaf. Break it up, and to 
 each pound allow a gill of water and an ounce of 
 isinglass. Mix the water with the sugar. Dissolve 
 the isinglass in as much hot water as will cover it. 
 Set the sugar over the fire in a preserving-kettle; and 
 when it is beginning to boil, throw in the melted 
 isinglass. Skim the syrup well, and when it is 
 quite clear and no more scum rises, take it from 
 the fire, cover it, and leave it to settle. 
 
 Prepare the fruit of which you intend to make 
 the jelly. If small fruit, such as gooseberries, cur- 
 rants, grapes, raspberries, or strawberries; pick 
 them from the stems, and put them into a jar ; set 
 the jar in a vessel of warm water, and let them 
 come to a boil. Then take them out, put them into 
 a fine sieve, set a pan under it, and with the back 
 of a large spoon press out all the juice from the 
 fruit. Mix the juice, while warm, with the clarified 
 sugar, and boil them together for about a quarter 
 of an hour. Then put it into your jars or glasses, 
 and tie it up with brandy-paper. 
 
 If you want the jelly for immediate use, put it 
 into a mould ; set the mould in ice for two or three 
 hours ; and when the jelly is congealed, loosen it 
 by setting the mould in warm water, and then 
 turn it out. 
 
104 PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 
 
 PRESERVED PUMPKIN. 
 
 Take a fine ripe pumpkin of a deep rich color. 
 Cut from it as many slices as you want ; they 
 should be very thin. Have ready some lime-water. 
 Put into it the slices of pumpkin, and let them soak 
 for twenty-four hours. Then take them out, wash 
 them well in cold water, and wipe them dry. 
 Having prepared a nicely clarified syrup of sugar, 
 put the slices of pumpkin into it, and let them sim- 
 mer over a slow fire without stirring, for a day and 
 a night ; but first flavor them to your taste with 
 lemon-juice mixed into the syrup. When done, 
 they will be crisp and transparent. Put them into 
 broad stone or queensware pots, and tie them up 
 with brandy-paper. 
 
 PRESERVED RASPBERRIES. 
 
 Let your raspberries be gathered on a dry day. 
 Measure them, and to a quart of raspberries allow 
 a pound of fine loaf-sugar. Spread the fruit on 
 large dishes, but do not heap it ; let every raspberry 
 lie singly. Pound the sugar to powder, and sift it 
 over the fruit. 
 
 Then have ready the same quantity of ripe cur- 
 rants. Squeeze them through a linen bag which 
 has been wrung out of cold water. Prepare a 
 pound of loaf-sugar for each pint of currant juice. 
 Put the sugar into a preserving-kettle, and pour 
 the currant-juice over it. When it has melted, set 
 it on the fire, and boil and skim it for ten minutes. 
 When no more scum rises, put in the raspberries. 
 As soon as they are all scalded, take off the kettle, 
 cover it, and set it away for twO hours. Then put 
 it again on the fire for about five minutes. After- 
 ward set it again away for two hours, and then 
 
PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 105 
 
 return it to the fire as before. This must be done 
 three times in all, but on no account allow the rasp- 
 berries to boil. If done with care, they will be 
 whole and transparent. 
 When cold, put them up in glasses. 
 
 If you preserve white raspberries, do them in the 
 juice of white currants. 
 
 Any other fruit may be done in jelly in the same 
 manner. 
 
 ORANGE JELLY. 
 
 Peel twelve large sweet oranges, and cut them 
 into small pieces. Put them into a linen bag, and 
 squeeze out all the juice. Measure the juice, and 
 if it does not amount to a pint, squeeze some more 
 pieces of orange through the bag. Put a pound of 
 double-refined loaf-sugar into a preserving kettle, 
 and pour the juice over it. When the sugar has 
 melted, put it over the fire. Dissolve two ounces 
 of isinglass in a little hot water, and add it to the 
 jelly just as it is beginning to boil. Let it boil hard 
 twenty minutes. Then put it into glasses, and tie 
 it up with brandy-paper. 
 
 Lemon-jelly may be made in this manner. 
 
 CLARIFIED SUGAR, FOR PRESERVES, AND OTHER USES. 
 
 To each pound of sugar allow half a pint of 
 water, and half the w T hite of an egg ; thus four 
 pounds of sugar will require a quart of water and 
 the whites of two eggs. Mix the white of egg 
 with the water, and beat it to a froth with rods. 
 Take two thirds of the water, and pour it over the 
 sugar. When it has melted, set it over the 
 
106 PREPARATIONS OP FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 
 
 fire. When it rises and boils, pour in a little 
 more of the water, and diminish the fire to abate 
 the boiling and allow the scum to rise. Take it 
 off, skim it well, and in five minutes set it on the 
 fire again. When it boils a second time, add a 
 little more water ; and afterwards take it off and 
 skim it again. Repeat this till it is quite clear, and 
 no more scum rises. Then take it from the fire. 
 Dip a fine napkin in warm water, wring it out, and 
 then strain the syrup through it. Afterwards 
 put your fruit into the syrup, and boil it till tender. 
 You may keep this syrup in bottles, and at any 
 time you can put fruit into it ; for instance, straw- 
 berries, raspberries plums, apricots &c. If only 
 wanted for immediate use, you need not boil them, 
 but send them to table in the syrup, with the 
 advantage of their natural color and flavor. 
 
 FRUIT IN SUGAR COATS. 
 
 Prepare some of the best loaf-sugar powdered as 
 fine as possible. Have ready some white of egg. 
 Take some of the best and largest plums, cher- 
 ries, strawberries, raspberries, apricots (peeled) or 
 any other suitable fruit. 
 
 Dip the fruit, separately, in the white of egg, and 
 then roll it all over in the powdered sugar, which 
 will thus adhere to it, and form a coat. Then lay 
 it on a dish (spreading it out so as not to touch) and 
 set it in a cool oven to harden. 
 
 BURNT ALMONDS. 
 
 Take a pound of shelled sweet almonds, a pound 
 of loaf-sugar, and half a pint of water. Melt the 
 sugar in the water, and then set it over the fire. 
 Put in the almonds, and stir them about till they 
 
PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C 107 
 
 are well dispersed through the sugar. Let them 
 boil, and when you hear the almonds crack, they 
 are sufficiently done. Take them off, and stir 
 them till they are dry, and then put them into a 
 wire sieve, and sift from them the loose sugar. Put 
 this sugar again into the pan, with sufficient water 
 to moisten it, and let it come to a boil. Then put 
 in two spoonfuls of cochineal powder to color it 
 red ; add the almonds, and stir them over the fire 
 till they are quite dry. Put them away in glass 
 jars. 
 
 PEPPERMINT DROPS 
 
 Powder some fine loaf-sugar, add to it a little 
 essence of peppermint (sufficient to give it a strong 
 flavor) and enough of water to make it into a thick 
 paste, which you must mix on a plate with the 
 point of a broad knife. Then put the paste into a 
 pan that has a lip or little spout at one side ; melt 
 it over the fire, and let it come to a boil. As soon 
 as it boils, take it off and drop it from the lip of the 
 pan into a clean broad tin pan or plate. Let the 
 drops be all of the same size and shape. The tin 
 pan that receives them must be very cold. As 
 soon as the drops have hardened, loosen them 
 from the tin, by slipping the point of a knife under 
 each. 
 
 You may color them red with cochineal. 
 
 Keep them in a glass jar. 
 
 If the mixture congeals before all the drops are 
 made, melt it again over the fire. 
 
 CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
 
 Scrape some of the best chocolate, and mix it 
 with powdered white sugar. Moisten it with a little 
 
108 PREPARATIONS OF FRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 
 
 water, so as to make a paste. Work it on a plate 
 with a knife. Then boil it in a pan with a lip, and 
 pour it (a drop at a time) into a cold tin pan. 
 While moist, sprinkle colored sugar-sand or non- 
 pareils over the surface of each chocolate drop, 
 which drop must be of a good shape, and about the 
 size of a sixpence. When they are hardened, take 
 them off the tin, by slipping under them the point 
 of a knife. 
 
 Keep them in glass jars. 
 
 After the chocolate has boiled, make the drops 
 as fast as possible ; for if it gets cold before they 
 are all done, it will injure it much to boil it over 
 again. 
 
 The confectioners use for these purposes small 
 leaden moulds, greased with oil of almonds. Into 
 these moulds they pour the mixture, so that every 
 thing comes out of the same size and shape. 
 
 NOUGAT. 
 
 This is a very fine confection. Take three 
 quarters of a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and 
 one quarter of a pound of shelled bitter almonds. 
 Blanch them by scalding them in boiling water. 
 Then throw them into cold water, and take them 
 out and wipe them. Cut them into small pieces 
 (but do not pound them,) and mix them well 
 together. 
 
 Take a pound of loaf-sugar broken small, and 
 mix it with half a pint of cold water, and an ounce 
 of isinglass melted in a very little hot water. Boil 
 the sugar, and skim it well. When it is quite clear, 
 throw in your almonds, having first squeezed over 
 them the juice of two lemons. Stir the almonds 
 well through the sugar ; and as soon as they are 
 properly mixed with it, take the kettle off the fire. 
 
PREPARATIONS OP PRUIT, SUGAR, &C. 109 
 
 Have ready a mould or a square tin pan well 
 greased with sweet-oil. Put your mixture into it, 
 a little at a time ; dispersing the almonds equally 
 through the sugar, before it has time to get cold. 
 But if it does chill before the almonds are well 
 mixed in it, set it again over the fire to melt. Turn 
 it frequently in the mould, to prevent its sticking. 
 When it has become a hard cake, set the mould 
 for a moment in warm water, and turn out the 
 nougat. 
 
 In stirring it, you had better use a wooden 
 spoon. 
 
 ORGEAT PASTE. 
 
 Take half a pound of shelled bitter almonds, and 
 a pound and a half of shelled sweet almonds. 
 Blanch them, and pound them in a mortar one or 
 two at a time, pouring in frequently a little rose- 
 water, which will preserve their whiteness and pre- 
 vent them from being oily and heavy. Pound them 
 to a fine smooth paste, and then mix them with a 
 pound and a half of loaf-sugar finely powdered. 
 
 Put the mixture again into the mortar, a little 
 at a time, and pound it awhile that the sugar and 
 almonds may be thoroughly incorporated ; adding 
 still a little rose-water. 
 
 When done, put it away in small covered pots 
 or glasses, and it will keep several months in a 
 cool dry place. It makes a very fine drink. 
 
 When you want to use it, put a small piece into 
 a tumbler of cold water, and stir it till dissolved. 
 
 K 
 
110 LIQUEURS. 
 
 LIQUEURS. 
 
 To filter cordials, cover the bottom of a sieve 
 with clean blotting paper. Pour the liquor into it 
 (having set a vessel underneath to receive it), and 
 let it drip through the paper and through the sieve, 
 Renew the paper frequently, and fasten it down 
 with pins. 
 
 This process is slow, but it makes the liquor 
 beautifully clear. 
 
 NOYAU. 
 
 Take six ounces of peach kernels, and one 
 ounce of bitter almonds. Break them slightly. 
 Put them into a jug with three pints of white 
 French brandy. Let them infuse three weeks ; 
 shaking the jug every day. Then drain the liquor 
 from the kernels, and strain it through a linen bag. 
 Melt three quarters of a pound of the best loaf- 
 sugar in a pint of rose-water. Mix it with the 
 liquor, and filter it through a sieve, the bottom of 
 which is to be covered on the inside with blotting 
 paper. Let the vessel which is placed underneath 
 to receive the liquor be entirely white, that you 
 may be the better enabled to judge of its clearness. 
 If it is not clear the first time, repeat the filtering. 
 Then bottle it for use. 
 
 RASPBERRY CORDIAL. 
 
 Take a quart of raspberry-juice, and half a pint 
 of cherry-juice, the fruit having been squeezed in 
 a linen bag after the cherries have been stoned. 
 Mix the juices together, and dissolve in them two 
 
LIQUEURS. Ill 
 
 pounds of loaf-sugar. Then add two quarts of 
 French brandy ; put it into a jug, and let it rest 
 five weeks. Afterwards strain it, and bottle it 
 for use. 
 
 ROSE CORDIAL. 
 
 Take a pound of the leaves of full-blown red 
 roses. Put them into a quart of lukewarm water, 
 and let them infuse for two days, in a covered 
 vessel. Then squeeze them through a linen bag, 
 to press out all the liquid, and take as much white 
 brandy as you have of the decoction of roses. To 
 a pint of the infusion add half a pound of loaf- 
 sugar, and a very small quantity of coriander and 
 cinnamon. Put it into a jug, and let it set for two 
 weeks. Then filter it through blotting paper, and 
 put it into bottles. 
 
 QUINCE CORDIAL. 
 
 Pare your quinces, and scrape them to the core. 
 Put all the scrapings into a tureen, and see that 
 there are no seeds among them. Let the scrapings 
 remain covered in the tureen for two days. Then 
 put them into a linen bag, and squeeze out all the 
 juice. Measure it, and mix it with an equal quan- 
 tity of white brandy. To each pint of the mix- 
 ture add half a pound of loaf-sugar, and a little 
 cinnamon and cloves. Put it into a jug, and let it 
 infuse for two months. Then filter it through 
 blotting paper, and bottle it. This cordial im- 
 proves by age, and is excellent. 
 
 LEMON CORDIAL. 
 
 Pare off very thin the yellow rind of some fine 
 lemons. Cut the lemons in half, and squeeze out 
 
112 LIQUEURS. 
 
 all the juice. To each pint of the juice, allow half 
 a pound of loaf-sugar. Mix the juice, the peel, 
 and the sugar together ; cover it, and let it set 
 twenty-four hours. Then mix it with an equal 
 quantity of white brandy, put it into a jug, and let 
 it set a month. Then strain it through a linen 
 bag ; and afterwards filter it through blotting 
 paper, before you bottle it. 
 
PART THE EIGHTH. 
 
 K2 
 
MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 FRENCH COFFEE. 
 
 Let the coffee be roasted immediately before 
 you want to use it, as it loses much of its strength 
 by keeping. Its color, when done, should be a fine 
 bright brown ; but by no means allow it to scorch. 
 A cylindrical coffee-roaster that can be turned by 
 a handle, and sets before the fire, is far preferable 
 to a pot or a pan. Grind the coffee while warm. 
 
 If you intend to make half a dozen cups of coffee 
 for drinking, measure six cups of water of the same 
 size, and put the water into the coffee-pot. Set it 
 on hot coals, and when the water boils, put in two 
 or three chips of isinglass, or the white of an egg. 
 Then throw in six large tea-spoonfuls of ground 
 coffee. Stir it several times while boiling, and set 
 it several times back from the fire to diminish the 
 boiling gradually. When it has boiled sufficiently, 
 remove it entirely from the coals, pour in a cup of 
 cold water, and then put it in a corner and let it 
 settle for half an hour. Afterwards pour it off from 
 the grounds into another pot (which must first be 
 scalded), and set it close to the fire, but do not let 
 it boil again. 
 
 If you intend to serve it up with hot cream, you 
 must make the coffee stronger. While the coffee 
 is clearing, boil your cream or milk, and pour some 
 of it hot into each cup of coffee. 
 
 COFFEE WITHOUT BOILING. 
 
 Coffee made without boiling is much stronger, 
 more economical, and less troublesome than the 
 
116 CHOCOLATE. 
 
 usual way ; but it requires a pot of a particular 
 construction. The best sort of pot for this purpose 
 is called in French a Grecque (Greek). It must 
 be made of the best block-tin, and of a tall cylin- 
 drical shape, with the spout very near the bottom. 
 The receptacle for the coffee-powder fits into the 
 upper part of the coffee-pot, and must be taken out 
 when washed. The bottom of this receiver is 
 pierced with very small holes, and there are two 
 other strainers, made of movable plates of tin, 
 also covered with fine holes. These two strainers 
 fit into the receiver. The powdered coffee is to be 
 placed between them, so that it may filter through 
 the lower strainer, and also through the holes at 
 the bottom of the receiver. Having scalded the 
 pot, put the coffee into the receiver between the 
 two movable strainers, and pour in some water 
 which must be boiling hard at the time. The coffee 
 will then drain through into the lower part of the 
 pot where the spout is, and will clear itself in pass- 
 ing through the holes. Shut down the lid, place 
 the pot near the fire, and the coffee will be ready 
 for use as soon as it has done draining through. 
 
 Allow a large tea-spoonful of the powder for 
 each cup that you intend to have. 
 
 This mode of preparing coffee is very expeditious, 
 and requires neither isinglass nor white of egg. 
 
 CHOCOLATE. 
 
 Never boil chocolate in milk, as that spoils the 
 flavor ; and do not scrape it, but merely cut it into 
 pieces. To an ounce of chocolate allow a cup of 
 boiling water. 
 
 Having first scalded the pot, put in the choco- 
 late, pour the water on it, and boil it till one third 
 has evaporated. Then supply that third with cream 
 or milk, and take it immediatelv from the fire. 
 
PINE LEMONADE PUNCH, &C. 117 
 
 You need not stir it more than two or three 
 times. 
 
 FINE LEMONADE. 
 
 Allow a whole lemon and four or five lumps of 
 loaf-sugar to half a pint of cold water. Roll the 
 lemons hard on a table to make them more juicy. 
 Cut them in half, and squeeze them over the sugar. 
 Then pour on the water, and stir till the sugar is 
 dissolved. Take out whatever seeds may have 
 fallen in. In warm weather, put a lump of ice into 
 each glass. 
 
 punch. 
 Take three large lemons, and roll them very 
 hard on the table to make them more juicy. Then 
 pare them as thin as possible. Cut out the pulp, 
 and throw away the seeds and the white part of 
 the rind. Put the yellow rind and the pulp into a 
 pint of boiling water ; set it on the fire, and let it 
 boil two or three minutes. Take it off, and throw 
 in a tea-spoonful of raw green tea of the best sort, 
 and let it infuse about five minutes. Then strain it 
 through linen. Stir into it three quarters of a pound 
 of loaf-sugar, and a pint of brandy, or any other 
 suitable liquor. Set it again over the fire, and 
 when it is just ready to boil, remove it, and pour it 
 into a china bowl or pitcher. 
 
 CONVENIENT LEMONADE. 
 
 Take four ounces of powdered tartaric acid, 
 and two drachms of essential oil of lemon. Mix 
 them together, and keep them in a well-corked 
 phial. A table-spoonful mixed with sugar and 
 water, will make six or eight glasses of lemonade. 
 
 It will keep about a month, but not longer, as it 
 will then lose its strength. 
 
118 TRENCH MUSTARD POTATO FLOUR, &C. 
 
 FRENCH MUSTARD. 
 
 Put on a plate an ounce of the very best mustard 
 powder, with a salt-spoon of salt, a few leaves of 
 tarragon, and a clove of garlic minced fine. Pour 
 on by degrees sufficient vinegar to dilute it to the 
 proper consistence (about a wine-glassful), and mix 
 it well with a wooden spoon. Do not use it in less 
 than twenty-four hours after it is mixed. 
 
 POTATO FLOUR. 
 
 Potato flour is excellent for sponge-cake, and 
 other things which require extraordinary lightness. 
 It is also good for young children, and for conva- 
 lescent sick persons. 
 
 Take the best and most mealy potatoes ; pare 
 them, and wash them through several waters. 
 Then rasp or grate them over a tureen half full of 
 cold water. Continue to grate the potatoes till the 
 lower half of the tureen is filled with the pulp, so 
 that the water may rise to the top. The mealy part 
 of the potatoes will sink to the bottom, while the 
 remainder or the useless part will rise to the sur- 
 face. When nothing more rises, pour off the water 
 carefully, and dry the flour which you find at the 
 bottom. When quite dry, pound it in a mortar to 
 a fine powder, and sift it through a sieve. 
 
 Potato flour is much lighter than that of wheat. 
 
 COLD PICKLES. 
 
 Season some of the best vinegar with a little 
 garlic, a little tarragon, and a little sweet-oil. Put 
 it into a glass jar, and keep it well covered. You 
 may throw into it the green seeds of nasturtians, 
 morella cherries, little onions, small young carrots 
 when but a finger long, radish pods, and various 
 
CORNICHONS. 119 
 
 other things. Keep the jar well closed, and the 
 pickles will be as good and keep as long as if they 
 had been boiled. 
 
 Nasturtians and cherries will keep in plain vine- 
 gar without any seasoning. 
 
 CORNICHONS, OR FRENCH CUCUMBER PICKLES. 
 
 Take ten pounds of very small cucumbers. 
 Brush them all over to clean them well, and cut 
 off the stems. Put them into an earthen pan with 
 two handfuls of salt. Let them rest twenty-four 
 hours, and then drain them. When they are well 
 drained, put them back into the same pan, and 
 pour in a quantity of boiling hot white wine vine- 
 gar, sufficient to cover them. Then cover the pan 
 carefully with a lid or dish, and let the cucumbers 
 set in the vinegar twenty-four hours. They will 
 then be yellow. Pour the vinegar from them, and 
 cover them with vine-leaves. Boil the vinegar 
 again, and when it boils throw it over the cucum- 
 bers, stirring them well. 
 
 When the vinegar is cold, pour it from the 
 cucumbers, and boil it again. Then pour it over 
 them, and proceed in this manner four or five times, 
 till they become of a fine green. Keep them in the 
 interval always covered with a layer of vine-leaves, 
 fresh each time, and also with a cloth kept down 
 by a large dish. This, by keeping in the steam, 
 will assist them in greening. 
 
 Then drain them on a sieve, and put them into 
 glass jars. 
 
 Afterwards, boil some fresh white wine vinegar, 
 first mixing in it the following seasoning. To 
 every quart of vinegar allow half an ounce of 
 mace, half an ounce of sliced ginger, half an ounce 
 of whole black pepper, six cloves, a few sprigs of 
 tarragon, and half a clove of garlic. 
 
120 FINE COLOGNE WATER. 
 
 Boil the vinegar with these ingredients for five 
 minutes, and then pour it hot on the pickles. Tie 
 them up carefully. They may be used in a week. 
 
 The generality of French pickles, are made in a 
 manner similar to those of England and America. 
 
 FINE COLOGNE WATER. 
 
 Procure at an apothecary's the following oils 
 and have them all put into the same phial : — Oil of 
 lemon, 2 drams ; oil of rosemary, 2 drams ; oil of 
 lavender, 1 dram ; oil of bergamot, 2 drams ; oil of 
 cinnamon, 10 drops ; oil of cloves, 10 drops ; oil of 
 roses, 2 drops ; tincture of musk, 8 drops. 
 
 Put 2 pint of highly rectified spirits of wine into 
 a bottle, and pour the oils into it. Shake it hard 
 for a few minutes, having corked it tightly. It 
 will be fit for immediate use, but it improves by 
 keeping. 
 
 If you wish it stronger, double the quantity of all 
 the oils, but have only a pint of spirits of wine. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 How to Make Cologne Water. 
 
 From the Chemist. 
 
 Willi no trouble at ail any one can .»« 
 
 KoTaJfa%mok r ^nn|tU drops each of fc»efr 
 
 If this is subsequen y < -> g '\g ) *„ eX ccUiW'.y tine , 
 toripen and mellow bciure use. 
 
ja* e \_ Alcohol, one gallon; oil of lemon, two 
 pso- ®\ of bergamot, one ounce ; oil of lavender 
 sh), one and one-half drams; oil of 
 drams ; oil of neroli, one dram ; essence 
 %nd one-half ounces ; otto of roses, one- 
 >.etic ether, four drams. The materials 
 the best quality, and should be well 
 ^a^e to stand for eight days, and filtered 
 ' . \>8>$.eua. An elegant preparation. 
 
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