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THE 
 
 , ART OF COOKERY 
 
 A MANUAL FOR HOMES AND SCHOOLS 
 
 BY 
 
 EMMA P. EWING 
 
 Superintendent of the Chautauqua School of Cookery , formerly Professor of 
 
 Domestic Economy in the Iowa State Agricultural College, and 
 
 of Household Science in Purdue University, Indiana. 
 
 ^ 
 
 •/>'/^:^'\ \i.> '.' ^- 
 
 THE BOWEN-MERRILL COMPANY 
 
 Publishers 
 INDIANAPOLIS, INDIANA 
 
/ 
 
 Copyright, 1896 
 By Flood & Vincent 
 
 Copyright, 1899 
 By The Bowen-Merrill Co. 
 
 At 
 
 • • • • • • 
 
 • • • • ••, 
 
 • • • » • , ' 
 
 • » 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 A GREAT need exists in our homes and schools for 
 more intelligent instruction in regard to the preparation 
 of food. This book was written to supply that need. 
 In it the principles underlying the art of cookery are 
 clearly explained. And with its aid any person of or- 
 dinary intelligence ought to be able to select, prepare, 
 and serve, in a scientific and skilful manner, such articles 
 of food as are in general use. 
 
 in 
 
CONTENTS. 
 PART I.— MARKETING. 
 
 CHAPTER. PAGE. 
 
 Introduction 7 
 
 I. How TO Select Meat 10 
 
 II. How to Select Vegetables ... 15 
 
 PART II.— FOOD MATERIALS. 
 
 Introduction 17 
 
 III. Care of Food Materials .... 18 
 
 IV. Preparation of Food Materials . 20 
 
 PART III.— METHODS OF COOKING. 
 
 Introduction 33 
 
 V. Broiling 34 
 
 VI. Baking 46 
 
 VII. Boiling 65 
 
 VIII. Steaming 81 
 
 IX. Stewing 84 
 
 X. Soup-making 100 
 
 XI. Meat Sauces 126 
 
 XII. Frying 136 
 
 XIII. SiCK-RooM Cookery 156 
 
 XIV. Canning, Preserving, and Pick- 
 
 ling 163 
 
 PART IV.— MIXING. 
 
 Introduction 179 
 
 XV. Bread-making 182 
 
 V 
 
VI 
 
 Contents, 
 
 CHAPTER. PAGE. 
 
 XVI. Pastry and Pie 213 
 
 XVII. Puddings 227 
 
 XVIII. Cake-making 247 
 
 XIX. Delicate Desserts 254 
 
 XX. Sherbets, Water Ices, and Ice 
 
 Creams 260 
 
 PART v.— SEASONING. 
 
 Introduction 263 
 
 XXI. Salad-making 268 
 
 XXII. Entrees and Side Dishes .... 283 
 
 XXIII. Boned Meats 307 
 
 XXIV. Eggs and Omelets 311 
 
 PART VI.— SERVING AND GARNISHING. 
 
 Introduction 315 
 
 XXV. Carving 316 
 
 XXVI. Bills of Fare 319 
 
THE ART OF COOKERY. 
 PART I-MARKETING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 For the benefit of housekeepers and students of 
 cookery a few general rules are here given in regard to 
 marketing and the selection of food materials. 
 
 The methods of cutting up calves, sheep, and hogs 
 are so similar, in a general way, to that of cutting up 
 beef cattie— the main difference being in the fewer num- 
 ber of cuts on account of the smaller size of the animals 
 —that the rules which are applicable in the selection of 
 the best cuts of beef are applicable also in the selection 
 of the best cuts in any of these smaller animals. 
 
 The method of cutting up a beef, as illustrated in the 
 plate, is that which is followed by the best butchers in 
 New York and Chicago, and is the one in most general 
 use in this country. The divisions marked with the 
 letter S are generally used as steak. The figures 2 and 
 3 along the top of the back denote the number of ribs 
 in each cut or roast, as there designated. 
 
 The name by which each piece is called, as marked 
 on the illustration, is given in the following list : 
 
 1, S, Thick sirloin. 
 
 2, Second cut, or middle ribs. 
 
 3, S, Small end sirloin. 
 
 7 
 
Mlrodudion. 
 
 4, First cut rib. 
 
 5, Third cut, or thick rib. 
 
 6, First cut chuck rib. 
 
 7, S, Second cut chuck rib. 
 ^j S^ Cross rib. 
 
 9, S, Third cut chuck. 
 
 10, S, Rump. 
 
 1 1 , Face of rump. 
 
 12, First cut round. 
 
 13, Second cut round. 
 
 14, Top of sirloin. 
 
 15, S, Neck piece. 
 
 16, Second neck piece. 
 
 17, Plate piece. 
 
 18, Navel piece. 
 
 19, Brisket. 
 
 20, Shoulder clod. 
 
 21, Flank piece. 
 
 22, Third cut of neck. 
 
 23, Leg. 
 
 24, Shin. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 HOW TO SELECT MEAT. 
 
 To Select Beef. — Cattle from four to eight years of 
 age furnish the best beef. The flesh of young animals is 
 less rich in flavor and nutrition, and loses more weight 
 in cooking than that of mature age. Good beef has a 
 dark red color when first cut, which changes to a lighter 
 shade after a few minutes' exposure to the air. It looks 
 juicy, is fine grained, smooth, firm, and, at the same 
 time, elastic to the touch. It has a fair proportion of 
 fat about the kidneys and overlying the loin and ribs, 
 while the lean or muscular portions are ingrained and 
 marbled with dots and streaks of fat. A very dark 
 color indicates an old animal, a pale, moist muscle a 
 very young one, and a bluish or dark red color poor 
 beef. 
 
 Those portions of a beef containing the greatest 
 amount of tenderloin are generally considered the 
 choicest, consequently they command the highest price. 
 But, as a matter of fact, the sirloin, rump, ribs, and 
 some other cuts, although less tender, contain more 
 juice, flavor, and nutrition than the tenderloin. 
 
 The fore quarter of a beef contains a larger propor- 
 tion of bone to meat, and is less tender, than the hind 
 quarter, but is quite equal to it in juiciness and flavor. 
 Backward from the head, in the fore quarters, and up- 
 
How to Select Meat. " 
 
 ward from the legs in both fore and hind quarters, the 
 quality and price of the meat increases. 
 
 The best steak is the porterhouse steak, cut from the 
 loin of an animal where the tenderloin is largest. It con- 
 tains both tenderloin and sirloin, separated by a small 
 bone, and is frequently called a pin-bone steak. Further 
 back the pin-bone centers in a cross-bone at the top, 
 and a cut from there is often called a T-bone steak. 
 Steaks cut forward from the porterhouse steaks have no 
 separating bone in them, but are nevertheless called 
 porterhouse steaks by many butchers, and are not in- 
 frequently given that name even when cut so far forward 
 that there is not a semblance of tenderloin about them. 
 When the pin-bone or T-bone is removed from a porter- 
 house steak, and it is divided into two parts, these parts 
 are known respectively as tenderloin steak and sirloin 
 steak. As has already been said, the tenderloin is the 
 tenderest portion of a beef; but many people prefer a 
 sirloin to a tenderloin steak on account of its being more 
 juicy and richer flavored. After the loin, the rump steaks 
 are the best. The round is very inferior for broiling, as 
 the juices are so thin and exposed that it is difficult to 
 keep them from flowing out while the meat is cooking, 
 and leaving it dry and tasteless. Round steak is better 
 cooked as Salisbury or Hamburger steak, or sauted and 
 
 braised. 
 
 The first, second, and third cut ribs, as shown on the 
 chart, make prime roasts. The rump also makes an 
 excellent roast. The chuck ribs do not make nearly so 
 good a roast as either of the other cuts mentioned. 
 But the portions that are best for steaks furnish the 
 
12 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 finest roasts. And while sirloin is considered best for a 
 large roast, nothing can be choicer for a small one than 
 porterhouse. 
 
 To Select Veal. — Milk-fed calves that are from six to 
 eight weeks of age make the best veal. The fat about 
 the kidneys of such calves is white and the flesh is 
 white and firm. The hind quarter is the choicest and 
 generally sells for a few cents a pound more than the 
 fore quarter. The loin makes the fattest and finest 
 chops. Cudets are usually taken from the leg. The 
 fillet is also taken from the leg. Roasts are selected 
 from the loin, the breast, the shoulder, and the leg. 
 
 The pancreatic glands, or sweetbreads, are two small . 
 lumps of flesh that are found in the lower throat and 
 near the heart of the calf They seldom weigh more 
 than half a pound, and their function is to assimilate the 
 oily portions of the food of the young animal. In 
 milk-fed calves the sweetbreads are composed largely of 
 assimilated cream and are very tender and delicate in 
 flavor, but as the calves increase in age they become 
 tough and worthless. The sweetbread nearest the 
 heart is plump and oval in form, while that from the 
 throat is longer and less compact. There is little differ- 
 ence, however, in their flavor or delicacy. 
 
 To Select Mutton. — The best mutton is that in which 
 the fat is abundant, white, clear, and solid, the leg bones 
 white, the scored skin on the fore quarters red, and the 
 lean meat juicy and firm and of a dark red color. 
 
 To Select Lamb. — In selecting lamb choose that which 
 has hard, white fat on the back and about the kidneys, 
 and has pinkish-hued bones. 
 
How to Select Meat. 13 
 
 To Select Pork. — The lean of the best pork is of a 
 delicate red color, juicy, firm, and fine grained. The 
 fat is white and the skin thin and pearly. When the 
 skin is thick the pig is old. 
 
 To Select Ham. — Medium-sized hams weighing from 
 eight to twelve pounds are usually the best. Hams 
 should be plump and round, with short tapering shanks 
 and small bones. The fat should be white and firm, 
 and the skin thin and not wrinkled. 
 
 To Select Poultry. — A moderate sized turkey is more 
 apt to be young than a larger one, and a hen is prefera- 
 ble to a gobbler, being generally plumper, fatter, and 
 more delicate in flavor. The legs of a turkey should be 
 black and smooth and the breast-bone soft and pliable. 
 If the legs are rough, the breast-bone hard, and the 
 skin tough, the turkey is old. When turkeys or other 
 fowls are fresh the eyes are bright and full, and the feet 
 and legs limber. The breast of a goose should be 
 plump and white, and the feet yellow and flexible. If 
 the windpipe is soft the goose is young. Capons are 
 the greatest delicacies known in the poultry line, as they 
 retain the tenderness of young chickens while having 
 the size and flavor of mature fowls. To judge the age 
 of a chicken press with the finger on the breast-bone at 
 the point nearest the tail, and if the bone is soft and 
 pliable the chicken is young. Poultry that is dark and 
 slimy is stale and unfit for food. 
 
 To Select Eggs. — Fresh eggs look clear and semi- 
 transparent in a strong light, and if lifted in the hand 
 feel heavier than eggs that are stale. If eggs are 
 dropped into a bucket or pan of water those that are 
 
14 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 perfectly fresh will sink to the bottom and rest on their 
 sides, those that are stale will stand obliquely in the 
 water, while those that are positively bad will take an 
 upright position and float. Cold-storage eggs should 
 be avoided, as they usually have a sour, musty flavor 
 that renders them very undesirable for most culinary 
 purposes. 
 
 To Select Fish. — In selecting fish choose only those 
 with firm flesh, stifl" fins, lively red gills, and full, clear 
 eyes. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 HOW TO SELECT VEGETABLES. 
 
 Considerable care should be observed in the selec- 
 tion of vegetables, as most green vegetables are very 
 perishable, and lose their flavor and become unhealthful 
 when they wilt or grow stale. A few general rules are 
 given for the selection of such as are in most common 
 use. 
 
 To Select Potatoes. — Those that have the most per- 
 fect skin and are heaviest for their size are always the 
 best. 
 
 To Select Cabbage. — The firmest and heaviest heads 
 of cabbage are best. 
 
 To Select Cauliflower. — Select large, solid heads 
 that are creamy white. Wilted leaves and dark flowers 
 are indications of staleness. 
 
 To Select Squash. — Hubbard and other varieties of 
 fall and winter squash, and also pumpkins, should be se- 
 lected by weight. The heavier a squash or pumpkin 
 is in proportion to size the tenderer and richer flavored 
 it is apt to be. 
 
 To Select Turnips. — Medium-sized turnips are gen- 
 erally sweetest, provided they are firm, heavy, and free 
 from green spots. 
 
 To Select Carrots, Parsnips, and Salsify. — These 
 all belong in the same family of vegetables, and are best 
 when unwilted, solid, heavy, and free from side roots. 
 
 J5 
 
i6 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 To Select Cucumbers. — Select those of medium size 
 that are dark green in color and very plump and firm. 
 
 To Select Spinach. — Spinach should be bright green 
 in color, unwilted, and crisp. 
 
 To Select Celery. — Dwarf is much finer flavored than 
 mammoth. But whatever variety is selected it should 
 be white, firm, and crisp. 
 
 To Select Lettuce. — Head lettuce is much superior 
 to that known as ' ' cut lettuce, ' ' and the more firm and 
 solid the heads are the more tender and delicate flavored 
 the lettuce will be. 
 
 To Select Egg Plant. — The large, oval-shaped pur- 
 ple is the best. If fresh the ^%^ will be firm and the 
 skin brilliant. 
 
 To Select Tomatoes. — Smooth, firm, heavy tomatoes 
 are the least watery and the finest flavored. 
 
 To Select Onions. — Thin-skinned, solid onions are 
 always the best. The mildest of any of the different 
 varieties is the large Spanish onion. 
 
 To Select Peas and Beans. — Green peas and string 
 beans should be young and freshly picked. 
 
 To Select Green Corn. — ^The cobs should be well 
 filled and the grains plump and milky. 
 
 To Select Berries and Fruits. — A dry surface is a 
 pretty sure indication of freshness in strawberries, rasp- 
 berries, and blackberries ; and plumpness, brightness of 
 skin, and freedom from spots of decay are the most 
 reliable indications of freshness in such fruits as apples, 
 peaches, plums, cherries, grapes, etc. 
 
PART II.-FOOD MATERIALS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 It is quite as important to know how to take care of 
 food materials as it is to select them, and in a majority 
 of homes the loss incurred through ignorance or care- 
 lessness in this respect is very great. Consequently 
 every housekeeper should be acquainted with the best 
 methods of taking care of all kinds of food materials 
 before and after they have been cooked, so as to avoid 
 waste in this direction. Ignorance in selecting, caring 
 for, and preparing their food materials has impoverished, 
 and is impoverishing, many families. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 CARE OF FOOD MATERIALS. 
 
 All kinds of meat and poultry should be kept in a 
 cool, dry atmosphere and should be suspended from 
 hooks in such a manner as not to rest against anything. 
 The choicest portion of the fowl or joint of meat should, 
 when suspended, hang lowest, therefore turkeys, chick- 
 ens, etc., should be hung by the feet, and a leg of lamb, 
 mutton, or other animal by the shank-bone. 
 
 It is unsafe to keep veal or fresh pork any length of 
 time, and both meats are better to be cooked while 
 Iresh. 
 
 A turkey can safely hang three or four days in a cool, 
 dry atmosphere, but chickens and other fowls do not 
 improve after hanging twenty-four hours. Of course, 
 in a well-ventilated ice-chamber the time they can be 
 allowed to hang, without detriment, may be lengthened 
 considerably. The best and most modern authorities 
 approve of drawing all poultry and game before it is 
 hung. It should not, however, be washed until shortly 
 before it is to be cooked. 
 
 Fresh fish should not be allowed to soak any length 
 of time in cold water. They should be kept cold and 
 dry, and are better to be cooked as soon as possible 
 after being caught. 
 
 Milk and cream should be kept apart from all foods 
 
 i8 
 
Care of Food Materials. 19 
 
 that emit odors, and should be closely covered. Butter 
 also should be kept where it cannot absorb odors, and, 
 if kept in large quantities, should be covered with 
 brine, or with several inches of dry salt. A great deal 
 of milk, cream, and butter is ruined by being put in a 
 refrigerator or closet, with a variety of other articles 
 whose odors they quickly absorb. 
 
 All cooked foods should be stored in glass, china, or 
 earthen-ware vessels, and should be carefully covered. 
 
 Eggs should be kept in a cool, dry atmosphere. If 
 eggs are packed in dry salt, pointed end down, they 
 may be kept in good condition for several weeks. 
 
 Fruits and vegetables, as a general rule, keep best in 
 a cool, dry atmosphere. Lettuce, cress, celery, and 
 parsley are best preserved by being wrapped in a towel 
 or napkin wrung out of cold water, then in paper, and 
 kept in a cool place. 
 
 Berries and all soft, small fruits should be picked over 
 carefully and scattered on plates, or sheets of white 
 paper. They should not be piled high in deep dishes 
 until shortly before they are to be served. 
 
 Imperfectly ripened, or partly green, tomatoes may 
 be ripened very perfectly by being wiped dry, wrapped 
 in paper or cloth, placed in a basket lined with paper or 
 cloth to exclude the light, and set in a warm place for 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PREPARATION OF FOOD MATERIALS. 
 
 The proper preparation of food materials — ^both those 
 which are to be cooked and those which are to be served 
 uncooked — is so important a matter that every house- 
 keeper, cook, and student of cookery should have a 
 practical knowledge of how to prepare, as well as how 
 to select, all the various food materials and articles of 
 food that are likely to be included in the ordinary bill of 
 fare. 
 
 To Pick a Fowl. — Fowls that are picked dry are 
 considered superior to those whose feathers are removed 
 by scalding, but as the latter method of taking the 
 feathers from fowls of nearly all kinds Is the one in gen- 
 eral use and is much easier and quicker than dry pick- 
 ing, it is the method here given: Hold the fowl by 
 the feet or legs, plunge it in very hot water, and draw 
 it out again almost instantly. Repeat the process sev- 
 eral times, until the feathers are thoroughly soaked and 
 can be pulled out easily. Then take the fowl in the left 
 hand, and with the right hand pluck out the feathers, 
 stripping them from the legs down toward the head. 
 After all the feathers have been removed, rub out the 
 pin feathers with a coarse cloth, and singe off the hairs 
 over a blaze of alcohol or gas. 
 
 To Draw a Fowl. — Cut off the head of the fowl, if 
 
 ao 
 
Preparation of Food Materials. 21 
 
 it has not already been removed. Slit the skin the full 
 length of the neck at the back, and carefully loosen it 
 from the neck and craw. Cut off the neck about an 
 inch from the body, and remove the craw and wind- 
 pipe, being careful not to tear the skin of the fowl. 
 Insert a sharp-pointed knife in front of, and close to, the 
 tail and cut through the skin around the vent and out- 
 side the entrail. Lift up the skin below the breast-bone 
 of the fowl, leaving a strip an inch in width above the 
 vent. Cut crosswise two inches and make an opening 
 large enough to insert two fingers, with which carefully 
 draw out the entire contents of the body of the fowl. 
 Separate the heart, liver, and gizzard from the entrails. 
 Remove the gall-sack from the liver very carefully, and 
 open and empty the gizzard. 
 
 To Draw a Bird. — This is the best and easiest way 
 of drawing a bird or young chicken that is to be 
 broiled : Insert a small sharp-pointed knife between the 
 shoulder and the backbone and cut down the back the 
 entire length of the fowl or bird — being careful not to 
 cut into the entrails. Lay the fowl or bird open and re- 
 move the contents of the body. 
 
 To Wash a Fowl. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of soda 
 in two quarts of water, and with a brush or cloth wash 
 the skin of the fowl very thoroughly. Rinse the inside 
 with the soda water. Wash the giblets also. Rinse all 
 in cold water and wipe dry with a soft towel. 
 
 To Prepare a Fish. — To remove the scales from a 
 fish use a stiff-bladed knife, and scrape from the tail 
 toward the head. If the fish is to be stuffed and baked 
 trim off the fins and open the belly about one third the 
 
22 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 length of the fish, beginning near the tail. Remove the 
 entrails, wash and rinse the fish well, and dry with a 
 soft towel. If the fish is to be broiled, open it down 
 the belly the entire length of the fish, and unless it is to 
 be boned, cut through the bones close to the backbone, 
 and deep enough into the fish to allow it to lie flat and 
 wide open. 
 
 To Bone a Fish. — Cut off its head and insert the 
 point of the boning-knife close to the backbone, under 
 the small bones that lie near the inside surface of the 
 fish. Slip the knife under these bones and carefully lift 
 them from the fish, leaving the meat as little disturbed 
 or broken as possible. With a round-pointed, dull- 
 bladed knife scrape the flesh away from the backbone 
 and the bones that project into the fish therefrom, until 
 they can be lifted away clear of flesh; then with the 
 blade of the knife smooth and pack together the flesh 
 that has been disturbed by removing them. It is not 
 advisable to bone small fish, and all fish, as well as 
 meats of every kind, are of finer flavor when cooked 
 with the bones left in them. 
 
 To Prepare Soup-Bones. — Remove the skin from 
 soup-bones, instead of washing them, and make deep in- 
 cisions, quite near together, in the lean meat, with a knife. 
 
 To Prepare a Roast of Beef. — Remove the outer skin, 
 and with a moist cloth wipe the surface on the inside of 
 the cut wherever it has been exposed to dust. All 
 joints of meat should be prepared in the same manner 
 as beef, and should not be wet or washed when it is 
 possible to make them clean by removing the outer 
 skin and wiping them. 
 
Preparation of Food Materials. 23 
 
 To Prepare a Leg of Mutton or Lamb The outer 
 
 skin should always be carefully removed from both 
 mutton and lamb before either of them are cooked. 
 This is more important in the preparation of mutton 
 and lamb than in the preparation of other meats, as 
 mutton and lamb are both liable to have an unpleasant, 
 woolly flavor when boiled or roasted, unless the outer 
 skin has first been removed. 
 
 To Prepare Steak or Chops. — Remove the outer skin 
 and all superfluous fat and bones. As the fat of veal 
 and lamb is much more delicate than that of beef and 
 mutton a larger quantity of it can be left on the former 
 than on the latter meats. 
 
 To Prepare Breakfast Bacon — Cut ofl" the dried and 
 hardened surface from as much of a piece of breakfast 
 bacon as is needed. Lay the bacon, skin side down, on 
 a meat board and cut in thin slices down to the rind, 
 until the desired number is obtained, then turn the knife 
 under the slices and separate them from the rind. 
 
 To Prepare Sliced Ham. — Remove the outer rind, 
 also a very thin strip along the inner edge of each slice, 
 as those portions have a rank flavor, and are dirty from 
 exposure. 
 
 To Prepare a Ham for Boiling or Baking. — Lay the 
 ham, skin side down, in a large pan, pour over it a 
 quart of hot, and several quarts of cold, water. Add a 
 large spoonful of soda to the water, and with a brush 
 scrub the ham thoroughly all over, then rinse in clean 
 water and soak ten or twelve hours, in sufficient water 
 to cover it, with the skin side up. 
 
 To Prepare a Dried Tongue.— A dried, smoked 
 
24 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 tongue should be prepared in the same manner as a 
 ham. 
 
 To Prepare Salted Fish. — Soak the fish, skin side up, 
 in cold water ten or twelve hours, or long enough to 
 freshen it sufficiently, then hang in a cool place to drain 
 and become dry enough to broil readily. 
 
 To Prepare Liver — Skin the liver, cut it in slices 
 half an inch thick, soak half an hour in cold salt water, 
 and dry with a soft towel. 
 
 To Prepare Sweetbreads. — Put in cold salt water, 
 and let them soak an hour. 
 
 To Prepare Potatoes. — If the potatoes are to be 
 baked or boiled in their skins, wash clean, using a small 
 brush to scrub them with, and remove, with a knife, all 
 specks or blemishes. In paring potatoes use a small, 
 thin-bladed, sharp-pointed knife, drop the potatoes as 
 soon as pared into cold water, and let them remain there 
 until needed for cooking. This keeps them from ex- 
 posure to the air, and prevents their becoming dis- 
 colored. 
 
 To Prepare Turnips, Carrots, Etc. — Cut or slice the 
 turnips in pieces before paring, unless they are to be 
 cooked whole. Instead of scraping the skin from car- 
 rots, parsnips, and salsify it is easier and better to re- 
 move a thin paring by cutting from the top, lengthwise 
 of the vegetable. Carrots, parsnips, and salsify should, 
 like potatoes, be dropped in water as soon as pared. 
 
 To Prepare Squashes. — Squashes of the hard-shelled 
 variety should be washed or scrubbed until perfectly 
 clean, and then be cut with a saw into pieces the size de- 
 sired for baking or steaming. Pumpkins and squashes 
 
Preparation of Food Materials. 25 
 
 of the soft-shelled varieties should be divided into pieces 
 easily handled, before they are pared. 
 
 To Shell Peas. — Pick up the pods with the left hand 
 and press the thumb of the right hand upon the front of 
 the lower end of the pod — the forefinger of the right 
 hand supporting the pod beneath — until it splits open. 
 Then slip the thumb into the opening, run it up the en- 
 tire length of the pod, and scrape out the peas into a 
 dish or pan beneath the hand. Shelled peas should not 
 be allowed to drop into the dish containing the pods. 
 
 To String Beans. — To remove the strings from green 
 snap beans bend the sharp point at the lower end of the 
 pod backward until it breaks, and, with it still attached, 
 remove the string along the back of the pod, breaking 
 off with it the stem at the opposite end. Instead of 
 breaking the pods separately between the fingers, a hand- 
 ful of them may be taken at a time and cut with a knife 
 upon a board much more expeditiously. 
 
 To Wash Asparagus. — Take each stalk by the cut 
 end and swash it back and forward in a large pan of 
 water. Tie the washed stalks in bunches of six or eight 
 in each bunch, with a white cotton string; place the green 
 tips evenly together and cut off the opposite ends of 
 the stalks, thus making the bunches of a uniform length. 
 
 To Prepare Cabbage or Cauliflower. — Cut off the 
 roots and remove the outside leaves, then divide the 
 heads into quarters and lay face downward in cold salted 
 water for half an hour before cooking. Salt water is 
 said to induce worms and bugs to come from their hid- 
 ing places in vegetables and float upon the water. 
 
 To Prepare Spinach, Etc. — Cut off the roots and 
 
26 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 pick off the dead leaves from spinach, dandeUon, and 
 other greens, carefully examine for insects and worms, 
 throw into salted water, let remain for half an hour, then 
 wash each bunch or head singly in a large pan of clean 
 water. Spinach, dandelions, and other greens washed 
 by the handful and crowded together in quantities in the 
 water when washed are usually gritty and unpalatable 
 when cooked. 
 
 To Prepare Celery. — Remove the coarse outside 
 stems and pare the root. Divide the stalk into halves — - 
 if large into quarters — and trim off all leaves that are 
 not ornamental or edible. 
 
 To Prepare Lettuce. — Cut off the root and remove 
 the outside leaves from each head. Then remove the 
 other leaves one by one and place them in cold water. 
 Rinse carefully, lay in a fine wire basket, and swing in 
 a draft of air to dry off, or lay on a coarse towel and 
 shake gently until dry. Keep in a cool place until 
 served. Cress, chicory, sorrel, and all salad leaves 
 should be washed and dried in a similar manner. 
 
 To Prepare Cucumbers. — Lay the cucumbers upon 
 ice, or in cold water, until half an hour before serving, 
 then pare and slice upon broken ice. Just before serv- 
 ing drain off the water. Cucumbers should never be 
 soaked in salted water, as salt renders them tough and 
 indigestible. 
 
 To Prepare Tomatoes. — Lay the tomatoes, stem end 
 down, in a basin or bowl, and pour boiling water over 
 them until they are completely covered with it. Let 
 stand half a minute, then drain it off, and fill the bowl 
 with cold water. Renew the water several times, if 
 
Preparation of Food Materials. 27 
 
 necessary, but do not handle the tomatoes until quite 
 cold. As soon as the tomatoes are cold the skins can 
 be removed quite easily. If the tomatoes are to be 
 used raw lay them upon ice until just before serving, 
 when the skins can be removed and the tomatoes sliced. 
 
 To Prepare Bread and Cracker Crumbs. — As differ- 
 ent kinds of crumbs are required for different purposes 
 the various methods of preparing them are here given : 
 
 Crumbs No. i. — To prepare crumbs for stuffing 
 meats, poultry, etc., remove the crust from a loaf of 
 stale bread, break the loaf in the middle, and rub the 
 jagged or rough edges against each other until the 
 bread is rubbed into tolerably fine crumbs. 
 
 Crumbs No. 2. — Crumbs for scolloping meats, oysters, 
 fish, etc., should be prepared in the same manner as 
 those for stuffing meats and poultry, and should then be 
 rubbed through a coarse sieve. 
 
 Crumbs No. j. — To prepare crumbs that are to be 
 used in frying, take pieces of dry bread, crusts, or 
 crackers, lay upon a molding board, and, with a rolling- 
 pin, crush and roll them into very fine crumbs. Sift 
 before using. 
 
 Stuffing for Poultry. — Season to taste with salt and 
 pepper the desired quantity of Crumbs No. i, and 
 moisten lightly with melted butter. If additional season- 
 ing be desired, minced parsley, celery, or onion may be 
 used. 
 
 Stuffing for Veal. — Season to taste with salt and 
 pepper the desired quantity of Crumbs No. i, or with 
 salt, pepper, and lemon-thyme, or with salt, pepper, 
 and a combination of grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, 
 
28 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 or ground mace — using half as much nutmeg or mace 
 as lemon-peel, and moisten well with melted butter. 
 Crumbs No. i seasoned with salt and pepper and a 
 little sage or sweet marjoram, and moistened with melted 
 butter, may be used for stuffing pork. 
 
 Stuffing for Fish. — Use the same seasoning and pre- 
 pare in the same manner as for veal. 
 
 To Remove the Skins from Peaches and Plums. — 
 The skins may be removed from peaches, plums, grapes, 
 and some other fruits, in the same way they are re- 
 moved from tomatoes, but success depends greatly upon 
 the exact condition of the fruit. And as the skins of 
 all these fruits can frequently be peeled off readily with- 
 out the aid of boiling water it is always advisable to 
 experiment with a small quantity of the fruit before de- 
 ciding upon which is the easiest method of removing 
 them. 
 
 To Pare Peaches. — Cut the peaches in halves, re- 
 move the halves from the pits by twisting or "wringing" 
 them in opposite directions, and pare the halves. 
 
 To Prepare Apples. — Begin to pare an apple at the 
 large or stem end, and pare round and round until the 
 other end is reached. When the desired number of 
 apples have been pared, cut them into halves, then into 
 quarters, and then remove the core from each quarter 
 by following with a small knife the natural outline of the 
 core. Large apples of irregular form can be pared 
 more readily after they are divided into quarters. 
 Apples and most other fruits become discolored by ex- 
 posure to the air, after they are pared, consequently 
 they should not be pared any length of time before they 
 
Preparation of Food Materials, 29 
 
 are put to cook ; but when they are — as circumstances 
 frequently render it necessary for them to be — they 
 should always be covered with several folds of towel 
 wrung out of cold water. 
 
 To Pick Over Berries. — Pour from the basket or box, 
 upon a large white plate, enough berries to cover the 
 surface, then remove all poor berries and dirt from the 
 plate and carefully slip the berries into a dish. Repeat 
 this process until all the berries have been picked over. 
 Berries are so easily bruised and crushed that they 
 should never be piled high in deep bowls until they are 
 ready to be served. 
 
 To Hull Strawberries. — Take each berry between 
 the thumb and fingers of the left hand, gather up the 
 hull and stem with the thumb and forefinger of the 
 right hand, and by a gentle twist remove them, leaving 
 the berry unbruised or uninjured in the least. 
 
 To Wash Berries. — With rare exceptions, berries, 
 currants, and all small fruit should be washed before 
 they are served. For washing them, use an earthen 
 bowl, larger at the top than at the bottom, and that will 
 hold at least a gallon. Fill the bowl nearly full of cold 
 water. Slip the berries carefully from the plates upon 
 which they were laid when picked over into the 
 water, and with the hands lift and stir them gently, 
 so as to free them of dirt and dust. Pour off the light 
 dirt that rises to the surface of the water, and, with the 
 hands, lift the berries into a flat-bottomed sieve, and let 
 them drain a few minutes. If more than a quart of 
 berries is to be washed, pour those in the sieve into 
 the dish from which they are to be served, and proceed 
 
30 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 in a similar manner with those remaining unwashed. 
 
 To Wash Rice. — Pick over the quantity of rice 
 needed, put it in a bowl, cover with tepid water, lift in 
 the hands and rub the kernels briskly against each other 
 to remove the starch. Rinse in cold water several 
 times, or until the water ceases to look milky, then 
 drain and put at once to cook. 
 
 To Wash Oranges and Lemons. — Before oranges and 
 lemons are used they should be well scrubbed with a 
 small, stiff brush, in warm water, then be rinsed in cold 
 water and wiped dry. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF A COAL FIRE. 
 
 To START a fresh coal fire in a range, lay in a suffi- 
 cient quantity of dry kindlings, add a little coal, open 
 the drafts, and light the kindlings. Be careful to have 
 the kindlings burning briskly, and the coal well ignited, 
 before any more coal is added, and also not to let the 
 fire get under too great headway before the dampers are 
 closed. Only a small quantity of coal should be put on 
 at a time, and when it is fairly ignited more should be 
 added, until the requisite degree of heat is obtained. 
 When a steady, continuous heat is wanted for baking, 
 the front damper should be closed, or nearly so, and an 
 occasional sprinkle of fresh coal added to the fire. The 
 fire-box should never be packed so full of coal as to 
 cause the griddles and top of the stove to grow red-hot. 
 When the fire Is not wanted for active use in cooking, 
 a little coal should be put on and all the dampers closed. 
 Unless the stove is perfectly air tight, which is seldom 
 the case, it will, when thus closed, burn slowly and re^ 
 
Preparation of Food Materials. 51 
 
 duce the coal to ashes, leaving scarcely any cinders or 
 clinkers; and when fresh coal is put on and the dampers 
 are opened, the fire will be bright and clear and ready for 
 use in a few minutes. It is very important in the man- 
 agement of a coal fire to avoid exposing the live coal 
 to the air, or keeping too strong a draft on the stove. 
 Exposure of burning coal to the air deadens and turns 
 it to cinder in a short time, and when the draft is very 
 strong it causes a greater combustion of fuel than is 
 necessary, carries off heat that should be utilized, and 
 soon fills the stove with clinkers. 
 
PART IIL-METHODS OF COOKING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 At first glance the methods of cooking seem almost 
 innumerable. But upon careful examination it will be 
 found that there are only four, namely: broiling, baking, 
 boiling, and frying. All other methods are merely 
 nominal, being modifications, variations, or combinations 
 of these four primary methods. It will also be found 
 upon examination that the action going on within the 
 article being cooked is very similar in character, whether 
 the article is being broiled, baked, boiled, or fried. But 
 the flavor and digestibility, as well as the nutritive value 
 of various articles of food are very differently affected 
 by the different methods of cooking. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 Broiling is one of the most perfect methods of cook- 
 ing many articles of food, and may be accomplished 
 quite successfully, without either broiler or gridiron, on 
 a bed of live coals or over a clear blaze. Broiling is the 
 sudden searing and browning of the surface of food; and 
 a steak or chop to be perfectly broiled must have its sur- 
 face instantly seared or cooked. This instantaneous 
 searing, or surface cooking, hardens the albumen and 
 forms a coating which shuts in the juices of the article 
 being broiled ; provided it is turned frequently enough 
 to keep the seared surfaces intact during the process. 
 
 Where much broiling is to be done a charcoal burner 
 is very desirable; but the light wire broiler or toaster that 
 opens and closes with hinges and can be held in the 
 hand — of which nearly all shapes and sizes are manu- 
 factured — is so convenient and so admirably adapted to 
 the purpose that it is difficult to imagine how any one 
 who understands the elementary principles of cooking, 
 and knows anything about the management of a fire, 
 should care to seek an easier or a better method of 
 broiling for the average family than that aiforded by an 
 ordinary range or cook-stove and a wire broiler. With 
 one of these broilers, which can be held in the hand and 
 turned quickly, at pleasure, steaks, chops, poultry, game, 
 
 34 
 
Broiling. 35 
 
 fish, oysters — in fact, any article of food that it is ad- 
 visable to broil — can, when the fire is in proper condi- 
 tion, be broiled over the fire in a common range or 
 cook-stove in about as perfect a manner as it is possible 
 to broil food. 
 
 How to Broil. — Have a clear, bright fire in the 
 range. Open the main damper so as to create a good 
 draft and allow the escape of smoke or gas. Remove 
 one of the front griddles and place the article to be 
 broiled in the broiler, and over the open griddle-hole. 
 Turn the broiler frequently to keep the meat from burn- 
 ing, to prevent the juice from being forced through its 
 seared surfaces by the heat, and to allow it to cook 
 evenly on both sides. If the drippings from the fat of 
 the meat create a blaze, withdraw the broiler an instant 
 until the blaze subsides. A deep cover laid over the 
 meat will retain the heat and facilitate the broiling. 
 When the fire becomes dull — if coal is used — add a 
 sprinkle of fresh coal, replace the griddle, and use the 
 other end of the stove, which, having been protected 
 from the air, will be clear and bright. Where but one 
 griddle is removed at a time a portion of the fire can be 
 kept always in good condition, and by adopting this 
 method broiling can be carried on continuously as long as 
 desired. When a wood fire is used for broiling, the wood 
 must be kept blazing brightly, or the coals glowing vigor- 
 ously, all the time. If the wood is dry and sufficiently 
 fine, and is kept burning briskly, almost any article of food 
 can be broiled over it very perfectly, and without being 
 either burned or smoked. Gas, either natural or artificial, 
 when rightly managed, makes an excellent broiling fire. 
 
36 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To Broil a Steak. — Trim neatly by removing with a 
 sharp knife the outer skin and superfluous fat. Fill the 
 broiler compactly, after greasing it, adjusting the meat 
 to the size of the griddle-hole of the stove. Hold close 
 down to the coals or blaze an instant until the under 
 surface of the meat is seared. Turn and sear the other 
 side in a similar manner. Then, by frequent turnings, 
 allow the inside to cook gradually, and the outside to 
 brown nicely without becoming hardened. The intense 
 heat applied to the under surface of meat in broiling 
 drives the juices toward the opposite surface, and unless 
 the broiler is turned frequently enough to keep both 
 surfaces well seared the juices will be forced out and the 
 meat rendered dry, tough, and innutritions. 
 
 Some like steak rare, others well done, and tastes dif- 
 fer so widely that the exact time necessary for broiling a 
 steak cannot be given. A steak an inch thick will cook 
 rare in eight minutes, medium in ten minutes, and well 
 done in twelve minutes, and during the process of cook- 
 ing the broiler should be turned at least twenty times. 
 A thinner steak requires a shorter, and a thicker steak a 
 longer time to broil. One can determine the condition 
 of a steak pretty correctly in this manner : Press upon 
 it with the point of a spoon or a dull knife blade. If 
 the resistance to the pressure is firm the steak is un- 
 cooked. If the resistance is slight the steak is rare. If 
 there is no resistance it is well done. When a steak is 
 sufficiently cooked it should be served at once. The 
 usual method of serving a steak is to lay it on a warm 
 platter upon which has been placed a small quantity of 
 butter, salt, and pepper; but it is quite customary to 
 
Broiling. 37 
 
 serve a steak without seasoning, thus permitting the 
 eater to season according to inclination. 
 
 A popular cook-book, after giving some sensible di- 
 rections for broiling a steak, adds, * ' It should when 
 broiled be well seasoned, placed on a piping hot platter, 
 and another hot platter placed over it and left there for 
 ten minutes to draw out a nice, rich gravy." In its 
 proper place ** a nice, rich gravy " is undoubtedly a good 
 thing, but most people consider it superfluous with a 
 tender, juicy, perfectly broiled steak; and especially so 
 when it is manufactured of juices drawn, expressly for 
 that purpose, from the steak. A broiled steak should 
 never be placed upon * * a piping hot platter, ' ' lest it 
 get overcooked and have the juices drawn out; but as 
 soon as broiled it should be put upon a warm plate or 
 platter and kept at a moderate, even temperature. So 
 treated it will remain for ten or fifteen minutes in 
 nearly as perfect condition as when removed from the 
 broiler. 
 
 Fresh meats should not be seasoned before they are 
 put to broil, or while broiling; neither should the surface 
 be cut or broken during the process of broiling. The 
 juices are extracted and the meat rendered dry and 
 tasteless by such practices. 
 
 To Broil Chops. — Mutton chops should have most of 
 the fat removed from them and should be trimmed 
 neatly, and broiled and served like beefsteak. A mutton 
 chop should be at least an inch thick. 
 
 Lamb chops should be trimmed, broiled, and served 
 like mutton chops. As the fat of lamb is more delicate 
 than the fat of mutton, a larger quantity of fat should be 
 
38 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 left on a lamb than on a mutton chop. Lamb chops are 
 frequently served on thin slices of dry toast. 
 
 Veal and pork chops may be broiled, like mutton or 
 lamb chops, but the best method of cooking is to saut6 
 or braise them. 
 
 To Broil Sweetbreads. — If the sweetbreads are young 
 soak them an hour in cold salted water, then cut in 
 slices and broil over the fire, in a wire broiler. If they 
 are old and tough, place them in boiling water, cook 
 until tender — from half an hour to two hours, according 
 to age — remove from the fire, place in cold water to 
 harden, and, when perfectly cold, wipe dry, slice, and 
 broil. 
 
 To Broil Tripe. — Dry the pieces of tripe on a towel, 
 brush them on both sides with melted butter, to induce 
 rapid browning, lay on a wire broiler, place over the 
 fire, and turn two or three times, or until nicely browned 
 and perfectly heated all through. Baste with butter and 
 serve on a warm platter. Tripe should always be boiled 
 or stewed before it is broiled. 
 
 To Broil Liver. — Dust the slices of prepared liver 
 wdth flour, dip in melted butter, place in the broiler, and 
 broil and serve like beefsteak. 
 
 To Broil a Chicken. — Lay the prepared chicken on a 
 towel, flatten with a rolling-pin, put in a wire broiler, 
 place over the fire inside down, and let it remain in that 
 position until well seared, then turn the broiler over, 
 sear the skin side, and so turn and sear alternately until 
 thoroughly broiled. Lift to a warm platter, season, and 
 serve. 
 
 A small, young chicken — and no other should be 
 
Breiling. 39 
 
 cooked in this manner — will broil over a brisk fire in 
 fi'om fifteen to twenty minutes ; but unless the fire is 
 bright and in good condition the chicken will be im- 
 perfectly cooked, and as a consequence will be stringy 
 and comparatively tasteless. 
 
 To Broil Prairie Chicken. — Both prairie chicken and 
 grouse can be broiled in the same manner as chicken. 
 
 To Broil a Quail. — Have ready some melted butter in 
 a heated platter. Dip the prepared quail in the butter. 
 Drain and lay in the broiler over bright coals. Remove 
 occasionally and dip in, or baste with, the butter. As 
 soon as the bird is an even brown all over, take it from 
 the broiler, add a sprinkle of salt and pepper to the but- 
 ter left from basting, and pour the mixture over the bird. 
 This makes a dainty dish for an invalid. 
 
 If a number of quails are to be broiled, plunge them 
 for half a minute into fat or oil at frying temperature, 
 drain, place in a broiler, and broil over a bright fire. 
 The quail is such a dry-meated bird that none of its 
 juices should be lost in cooking ; and as this hot oil 
 bath shuts them in very effectually it is quite a desirable 
 accessory in broiling quail. 
 
 To Broil a Fish. — Place the prepared fish in a wire 
 broiler, put it over a brisk fire, skin side up, and when 
 the inside is well seared turn the broiler over and sear 
 the skin side. After both sides have been seared, con- 
 tinue turning the broiler as frequently as necessary, 
 thus searing the two sides alternately, until the fish is 
 thoroughly cooked. 
 
 To Broil Oysters.— Roll the oysters in fine bread 
 crumbs, dip in melted butter, lay in a wire broiler, and 
 
40 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 cook quickly over a brisk fire, turning the broiler as 
 often as necessary. 
 
 To Broil Ham. — Cut the slices of ham rather thin, 
 place them in a wire broiler, and broil over a quick fire, 
 turning frequently, till both sides are nicely browned. 
 
 To Broil Tomatoes. — Select tomatoes not over ripe, 
 wash, wipe, and slice in thick slices. Season with salt, 
 sugar, and pepper, roll in fine bread crumbs, or in flour, 
 dip in melted butter, and broil in a wire broiler over a 
 clear fire. 
 
 To Toast Bread. — When a slice of bread is placed 
 near a clear fire it gradually browns or toasts. The 
 same method of cooking that is termed broiling when 
 applied to meats is termed toasting when applied to 
 bread. Broiling must therefore be varied somewhat in 
 its application to different articles. The heat applied to 
 a steak when first put to broil cannot be too intense, for 
 the best results are obtained when the surface is seared 
 or cooked instantly. But in toasting or broiling bread 
 this is not the case. The application of heat to the slice 
 of bread in order to toast it properly should be gradual, 
 as the object is not to shut in the moisture which the 
 bread contains but to drive it out, and gradually dry 
 and brown the surface of the bread. Bread is toasted to 
 divest it of moisture, as well as to brown and give it a 
 peculiar flavor. Toasting converts the insoluble starch 
 in bread into a soluble substance called dextrine, which 
 after being moistened by the saliva is easily digested. 
 For this reason bread properly toasted agrees better 
 with weak stomachs than any other kind of bread. But 
 if the slices are thick and are carelessly held before or 
 
Broiling. 41 
 
 over a very hot fire, the outside becomes quickly 
 browned and toughened, the moisture is driven in, in- 
 stead of being evaporated, and the toast is rendered 
 clammy and indigestible. To make good toast it is 
 necessary to observe these directions : Cut the bread 
 in even slices about half an inch in thickness. Slightly 
 dry them in the oven, or before the fire. Put each slice 
 on a toasting fork, or in a wire broiler, and hold it be- 
 fore or over a clear bright fire of coals, but at a sufficient 
 distance from them to allow it to brown evenly without 
 burning. When the surface of one side becomes a rich 
 golden color, turn and toast the other side in a similar 
 manner. Serve in a toast rack, or on a warm plate. 
 Be careful not to pile the slices on each other, or they 
 will lose their crispness and flavor. 
 
 Toast of good quality can be made only from sweet, 
 light, well-baked bread ; and no amount of toasting will 
 convert inferior bread, or bread that is sour, heavy, and 
 half-baked, into toast that is digestible or fit to be eaten. 
 
 GRIDDLE BROILING. 
 
 It goes without saying that a griddle cannot super- 
 sede or fill the place of a broiler. But when the fire 
 is not in proper condition for a broiler to be used ad- 
 vantageously, a hot griddle can be made to serve as 
 a very acceptable substitute. And steaks, chops, etc., 
 cooked on a hot griddle — if properly done — are just 
 as much broiled as if they had been cooked in a 
 broiler over hot coals. For the outer surfaces can be 
 seared as thoroughly, and the juices retained as per- 
 fectly, by the latter as by the former method. Food 
 
42 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 broiled on a griddle differs somewhat in flavor from food 
 broiled on a gridiron or broiler ; but when one has to 
 choose between the use of a wire broiler over a slow fire, 
 and the use of a hot griddle over a quick fire, there 
 should be no hesitancy about deciding in favor of using 
 the griddle. 
 
 To Broil Steak or Chops on a Griddle. — Use a cast- 
 iron or steel griddle. Have it smoking hot. Lay upon 
 it the steak or chops to be cooked, and press the meat 
 close to the griddle. When the side next the griddle is 
 brown, turn and let the other side brown, and so turn 
 and let brown as often as is necessary to keep the surface 
 seared and the juices within the meat. If left too long 
 upon the same side the heat of the griddle will force the 
 juices through the upper surface of the meat, but if the 
 article being cooked is turned frequently enough the 
 juices may be retained within, as perfectly as when the 
 broiling is done in a broiler over the coals. 
 
 For broiling steak or chops on a griddle most suc- 
 cessfully it is better to have them only of medium thick- 
 ness, and it may frequently be desirable to remove the 
 bone before placing upon the griddle. It is certainly 
 always best to do so when the bone projects enough to 
 prevent the surface of the meat adhering to the griddle. 
 A thick steak, after both sides have been seared on the 
 griddle, may without removal therefrom be thoroughly 
 cooked by being put into a very hot oven for eight or 
 ten minutes. If the broiling has been skilfully done, 
 when the steak or chop is lifted to the platter a 
 small piece of butter can be put on the griddle, which 
 should stand in a cool place, and with a spoon or knife 
 
Broiling. 43 
 
 the brown juices of the meat that adhere thereto can be 
 removed, mingled with the melted butter, and poured 
 over the steak or chop. 
 
 To Broil Oysters on a Griddle. — Drain the oysters in 
 a colander or sieve, dip each oyster in melted butter that 
 has been clarified, and lay upon a plate for convenient 
 handling. Have a griddle clean, smoking hot, and per- 
 fectly dry. Fill it quickly with the drained oysters, 
 laying them closely together upon it. By the time the 
 griddle is filled, if the fire is sufficiently hot, the oysters 
 first laid upon it will be browned and broiled. With a 
 limber knife and a fork turn the oysters upon the grid- 
 dle, in the order in which they were laid upon it. As 
 soon as they are turned begin removing those first put 
 upon the griddle, and so proceed until they are all lifted 
 upon a warm platter on which salt, pepper, and butter 
 have been placed. Or they can be laid upon thin slices 
 of toast and seasoned with salt, pepper, and melted 
 butter. 
 
 OVEN BROILING. 
 
 Experiments prove that many articles of food can be 
 broiled perfectly in the oven of an ordinary range, by 
 the application of hot air. And although there are 
 many that cannot be so broiled, notably all meats with 
 cut surfaces, no reason exists why the things that can be 
 broiled better and more conveniently in an oven than 
 over coals should not be so broiled, and this method of 
 cooking be known as oven broiling — which it actually 
 is — rather than baking or roasting. 
 
 The temperature of an oven for successful broiling 
 
44 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 should be at least five hundred degrees — considerably- 
 higher than for baking bread or roasting meats — and 
 should remain so until the article to be broiled has be- 
 gun to brown nicely, when the heat can be lessened and 
 the cooking finished at a lower temperature. 
 
 To Broil a Chicken in the Oven. — After the chicken 
 has been split down the back and properly prepared, lay 
 it inside down upon a meat-board and press the joints 
 and breast-bone close to the board with a rolling-pin — 
 crushing them down until the chicken is quite flat — then 
 wipe off all moisture with a dry towel, and lay the flat- 
 tened chicken inside down upon a smoking hot roasting 
 pan. Put a weight upon it to keep it pressed close to 
 the pan until well seared and lightly browned. After 
 the searing and browning have been accomplished re- 
 move the weight, and put the chicken, without taking it 
 from the pan, into a very hot oven. Place it on the 
 upper grate so the greatest heat may be from above. 
 Close the oven door and leave the chicken undisturbed 
 for twenty minutes. At the end of that time it will be 
 evenly browned on the outside, and, if young and not 
 large, will be perfectly cooked all through. If full 
 grown or very large it will have to be cooked from 
 forty to sixty minutes. When cooked, lay upon a 
 platter, season with salt, pepper, and melted butter, and 
 serve. 
 
 To Broil Quail in the Oven. — Plunge the prepared 
 birds in deep fat at frying temperature for half a minute, 
 then place them as close together as possible on a roast- 
 ing pan, and put them in a very hot oven for fifteen 
 minutes, or until nicely browned all over. Or dip them 
 
Broiling. 45 
 
 in melted butter, instead of immersing in hot fat, lay in 
 the roasting pan, put in the oven, and broil. 
 
 Small birds of any kind may be broiled in the same 
 manner as quail, and served on thin slices of either dry 
 or buttered toast. 
 
 To Broil a Rabbit in the Oven. — Spread the prepared 
 rabbit open, flatten with a rolling-pin or mallet, lay 
 inside down in a roasting pan, and broil in a hot oven 
 like a chicken. When the rabbit is thoroughly cooked 
 pour into the roasting pan two or three tablespoonfuls of 
 hot water, add two of melted butter and one of minced 
 parsley, let simmer a few minutes, season to taste with 
 pepper and salt, pour over the rabbit, and serve. 
 
 To Broil a Squirrel in the Oven. — A squirrel may be 
 prepared, cooked, and served in the same manner as a 
 rabbit. The flavor of parsley is so admirably adapted 
 to that of rabbit or squirrel that it can always be appro- 
 priately used with either. 
 
 To Broil a Fish in the Oven. — Open the fish down 
 the front, lay it, skin side down, on a fish rack, or on 
 oiled paper, in a roasting pan, season with salt, pepper, 
 and melted butter, and dust with flour. Put to cook on 
 the upper grate of a hot oven, and, when nicely browned, 
 place on a warm platter, season with plain or parsley 
 butter, and serve. A fish weighing three or four pounds 
 will broil in an oven at the right temperature in about 
 half an hour, and one of larger size in a proportionately 
 greater length of time. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 BAKING. 
 
 Roasting used to be done before an open fire, and 
 before the invention of cook-stoves and ranges was a 
 very important branch of the culinary art. The oper- 
 ation was performed by placing the fish, fowl, or piece 
 of meat to be roasted before an open fire, at the proper 
 distance therefrom, on what was called a "spit," which 
 was turned frequently while the article being roasted 
 was vigorously basted with water or gravy, to keep it 
 from burning. To our ancestors who roasted in this 
 manner, and baked in a clay or brick oven, built es- 
 pecially for the purpose, or, as was generally the case, 
 baked in an iron bake kettle, or "Dutch oven," by 
 placing coals beneath it and coals on the lid, the words 
 roasting and baking had different meanings. 
 
 In her book on * ' Practical Cookery ' ' Mrs. Henderson 
 says : * * Beef, mutton, turkeys, ducks, or birds, in fact, 
 every kind of meat, is tenfold better roasted than 
 baked," and old people who were in early life accus- 
 tomed to the open-fire method of roasting, stoutly con- 
 tend that all articles so cooked are far tenderer, juicier, 
 and sweeter than those cooked in the closed oven of a 
 stove or range. But since there is no probability of the 
 practical cook-stove and range of the present day being 
 
 discarded for the poetic brick oven and open fireplace of 
 
 46 
 
Baking. 47 
 
 the past, it is useless to advance arguments either for or 
 against the old-time methods of roasting and baking. 
 The cook-stove and range have come to stay, and roast- 
 ing and baking are processes so similar nowadays that 
 the distinction between the two processes is, for prac- 
 tical purposes, a ' ' distinction without a difference. ' ' 
 Moreover, people have got so in the habit of using the 
 -terms baking and roasting indiscriminately when speaking 
 of the cooking offish, fowl, meats, vegetables, fruit, etc., 
 in ovens of stoves and ranges, that no misapprehension 
 arises from such use of the words ; and, as there is es- 
 sentially no difference in the results, it matters very little 
 whether we call this process of cooking food in the oven 
 roasting or baking. 
 
 It is quite as important to know how to bake properly 
 as it is to know how to prepare properly, or make ready 
 for baking, the different articles of food that must undergo 
 the process of baking in their preparation for the table ; 
 and the anticipated results that should legitimately fol- 
 low the careful mixing and seasoning of dishes are often 
 defeated by ignorant or careless baking. Many a good 
 thing is spoiled in the oven, and probably as much food 
 is ruined by being improperly baked as by being im- 
 properly prepared. 
 
 To become skilful in baking one must know the tem- 
 perature required for baking different articles of food, 
 and also the method of applying the heat. For example : 
 the temperature for baking bread should be at least 375 
 degrees ; for roasting beef, lamb, mutton, veal, and 
 other meats that have had their cut surfaces seared, it 
 should be about the same ; for roasting poultry and 
 
48 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 meats that have not had their cut surfaces previously 
 seared it should be 50 or 75 degrees higher ; while for 
 broiling chickens, etc. , it should be at least 1 50, prob- 
 ably 200, degrees higher than for bread. And as an 
 oven thermometer is readily obtainable, which, when set 
 in the door of a cook-stove or range, indicates on the 
 outside the temperature of the inside of the oven, it 
 ought to be an easy matter for any one to become an 
 expert in the use of an oven. 
 
 It is generally supposed that the temperature should 
 be higher for roasting meats than for baking bread, but 
 such is not the fact, unless the meat has not previously 
 had its cut surfaces seared ; and in such case an extreme 
 temperature should be maintained only long enough to 
 sear properly the cut surfaces of the roast. When a 
 joint of meat has been properly seared its juices will be 
 richer and its flavor much finer if it is roasted in an oven 
 of the right temperature, than if it is roasted in an oven 
 with the temperature either too high or too low. Bread, 
 rolls, biscuit, and pastry require a higher temperature 
 than cake, buns, and other delicate preparations of 
 dough. Cake baked in thin layers and known as ** layer 
 cake ' ' will bear almost as much heat as buns, but loaf 
 cake requires a considerably lower temperature, until it 
 has fully risen. The more delicate the cake the less heat 
 it will bear. White sponge cake or angel food requires 
 less heat than any other kind of cake, and less, perhaps, 
 than anything that is baked, except omelet souffl6 and 
 kisses. 
 
 Some articles, for perfect baking, require greater heat 
 .at the top than at the bottom, some require greater heat 
 
Baking. 49 
 
 at the bottom than at the top, while others require a 
 uniform heat at the top, sides, and bottom. For roasting 
 meats, poultry, fish, bread, etc., the best position is in 
 the middle of the oven where the heat is uniform. For 
 broiling, chicken, fish, etc., should be placed upon the 
 upper grate so as to have sufficient heat to broil and 
 brown them. But for bread, cake, puff paste, and such 
 articles as are expected to grow light and puff after being 
 put in the oven, the greatest heat should be at the 
 bottom. 
 
 When a thermometer is not used this is a reliable 
 method of ascertaining the temperature of an oven : 
 Put a spoonful of flour on a piece of paper, slip it in the 
 oven, close the door, and if the flour browns nicely and 
 evenly in two minutes, the temperature is about right 
 for bread, and can, after a little practice, be graded to 
 suit other articles of food quite accurately. 
 
 To Roast Beef. — Place the clean cut side of the meat 
 upon a smoking hot pan. Press it close to the pan un- 
 til seared and slightly brown. Reverse it and let the 
 opposite side become similarly seared and brown, then 
 put it at once into the oven, the heat of which should be 
 the same as for bread, and leave it undisturbed till 
 cooked. If the oven is not too hot the meat will re- 
 quire no basting. When the temperature of the oven 
 is correct and the cooking is going on properly the meat 
 will keep up a gentle sputtering in the pan ; but if, upon 
 opening the oven door, this sputtering is not distinctly 
 audible more heat is required, and the temperature of 
 the oven should be increased. If, however, smoke 
 should be discernible in the oven the heat is too intense 
 
50 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 and should be lessened, as the drippings in the pan will 
 not brown and smoke unless the heat of the oven is too 
 great. 
 
 For roasting beef in this manner, after it has been 
 seared, fifteen minutes should be allowed for each inch 
 in thickness the roast may be, without regard to its 
 width or weight. A roast of beef that is three inches 
 in thickness will cook rare in three quarters of an hour, 
 a roast that is six inches in thickness will cook rare in an 
 hour and a half, and so on in about the same ratio with 
 different sized roasts. If a roast is desired medium or 
 well cooked, additional time must be allowed, and it can 
 thus be cooked to suit any taste. A roast that will re- 
 quire more than an hour to cook should be placed upon 
 a rack or rest in the pan after it has been seared, as there 
 will then be no danger of its becoming grease-soaked or 
 burned, and when half done it should be turned over on 
 the rack that both sides may be roasted alike. After 
 the roast has been removed from the pan, if the greater 
 portion of the drippings is carefully poured off, a de- 
 licious gravy can be made from the brown jelly or glaze 
 adhering to the bottom of the pan. 
 
 In a little cook-book entitled "Just How" the author, 
 Mrs. Whitney, says : 
 
 ' * In roasting meat do not put it at first in a very hot 
 oven, but have a good fire growing hotter that will make 
 the heat brisk and sustain it after the meat is heated 
 through. Let it heat gradually, and yield some portion 
 of the juice for gravy, before you seal up the surface by 
 browning. A joint of meat after being well washed 
 and trimmed should be rubbed evenly with fine salt be- 
 
Baking. 51 
 
 fore being put to roast. Put in at first a pint of water 
 with a teaspoonful of salt for the basting. If you follow 
 this method carefully there will be no trouble with the 
 gravy. ' ' 
 
 It is to be hoped not. But how about the meat ? The 
 method of roasting recommended by Mrs. Whitney is in 
 all probability an excellent one for producing good 
 gravy, and if the production of gravy was the object in 
 view might pass unchallenged as a model method for 
 making it. But is it altogether just to the roast to sacri- 
 fice it for the sake of the gravy, when good gravy ma- 
 terial is so easily obtained from odds and ends and tough 
 pieces of meat? And is it not a little unfair to scientific 
 cookery to call such a method of cooking meat roasting? 
 
 For roasting meats the method adopted should be the 
 one that preserves the juices within the meat in the most 
 perfect manner, thus rendering it sweet, juicy, and 
 tender. Salt and water have a tendency to extract the 
 juices of meat and toughen it, and basting is a trouble- 
 some, as well as a damaging, process. Why, then, 
 should beef and mutton and lamb and such meats as are 
 injured by salting and basting have the delicate flavor, 
 and much of the nutrition, tortured out of them by being 
 subjected to the operation ? Searing almost instantly 
 coats the cut sides of a piece of meat, and prevents the 
 escape of the juices in the process of roasting, while a 
 firm, steady heat gently but thoroughly cooks it, thus 
 preserving both juices and flavor. 
 
 To Roast Mutton — A saddle or joint of mutton 
 should be prepared by carefully removing the outer skin, 
 searing the cut surfaces, and roasting in the same manner 
 
52 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 that beef is roasted. Mutton requires a longer time 
 than beef to roast. Currant or other acid jelly should 
 be served with roast mutton. 
 
 To Roast Lamb. — Prepare and roast the same as 
 mutton. Serve with either jelly or mint sauce. 
 
 To Roast a Leg of Lamb or Mutton. — Remove the 
 outer skin carefully and sear the cut end. Roast lamb 
 an hour and a quarter, mutton an hour and three quar- 
 ters. A leg of lamb or mutton, because it is less fat and 
 more juicy, is preferred by many to the loin. 
 
 Venison should be roasted like mutton and served 
 with jelly. 
 
 To Roast Veal. — Veal is a meat that lacks flavor and 
 richness, and is greatly improved by seasoning with 
 salt, sugar, and pepper before it is cooked. Veal will 
 bear more salt than beef, mutton, or poultry, and about 
 half as much sugar as salt should be used in seasoning 
 it. Shake the sugar from a dredging box directly upon 
 the meat, then add the salt and pepper. If it is to be 
 stuffed, prepare a stuffing as directed on page 27 and fill 
 all available spaces with it. Make pockets under the 
 skin and fill them with it, or pack it upon the inside of 
 the roast, roll up tightly, pin with skewers, tie securely 
 with twine, place upon a rack in the roasting pan, and 
 put in the oven. As soon as it is a light brown color 
 baste with a thin gravy, and renew the operation every 
 fifteen minutes until the roast is thoroughly cooked. 
 It requires fully twice as long a time to roast veal as it 
 does to roast beef or mutton, and as the frequent bast- 
 ings keep it from becoming hardened, a piece of veal 
 weighing not more than three or four pounds can be 
 
Baking. 53 
 
 roasted with advantage two or two and a half hours. 
 
 To Roast Fresh Pork. — Season, Hke veal, with salt, 
 sugar, and pepper. A little powdered sage may also be 
 added, if liked. Roast the same as veal and baste, 
 every fifteen minutes after the pork has begun to brown, 
 with hot water seasoned with salt and pepper. Pork 
 requires very thorough cooking to render it wholesome 
 or palatable, and should be roasted a greater length of 
 time even than veal. 
 
 To Roast a Leg of Young Pork. — Remove the 
 bone, fill the cavity with highly seasoned bread crumbs, 
 prepared as for veal, with the addition of a little pow- 
 dered sage, if liked, and roast as directed for pork. 
 
 Roast Turkey. — ''With much experience in hotel 
 life," writes Mrs. Henderson in a book on cookery, " I 
 have never seen a piece of turkey on a hotel table that 
 was fit to eat. Besides being tasteless they are almost 
 invariably under-cooked. A small turkey of seven or 
 eight pounds should be roasted or baked three hours at 
 least. A very large turkey should not be cooked a 
 minute less than four hours — an extra hour is prefer- 
 able to a minute less." Mrs. Henderson, who generally 
 writes intelligently on culinary subjects, has suffered so 
 acutely in her hotel experiences in being forced to eat 
 under-done turkey that she inclines a little to the other 
 extreme, and by strictly following her directions one can 
 scarcely fail to have over-cooked turkey. If the heat of 
 the oven is as great as the turkey, with frequent bast- 
 ings, will bear, without becoming too brown, and is kept 
 firm and steady, a seven-pound turkey will cook just 
 right in two hours ; and with the oven at the proper 
 
54 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 temperature, twenty minutes to the pound is as much 
 cooking as any turkey will bear. Turkey, when prop- 
 erly roasted, is juicy, tender, and high-flavored ; when 
 over-done it is dry and tasteless ; but when under- 
 done it is nauseating and unfit to be eaten. 
 
 To Roast a Turkey. — Place the turkey, after it has 
 been properly cleaned, in a large bowl, tail downward, 
 put the prepared crumbs, for which see page 27, in at 
 the neck until the breast becomes plump, then draw the 
 skin together, and fasten over on the back. Reverse 
 the position of the turkey in the bowl, put the remain- 
 ing crumbs in the body, at the opening through which 
 the entrails were removed, and sew it up with strong 
 thread. Press the wings and legs as close to the body 
 as possible, and secure them firmly in position with 
 strings or skewers. Lay the turkey, breast downward, 
 on a rack in the roasting pan, and let it remain in that 
 position until the back is a light brown color, then turn 
 it over, and let the breast and sides brown in a similar 
 manner. Do not put any water in the pan during this 
 process. When the entire turkey is nicely browned 
 begin basting with a thin gravy. As this basting gravy 
 evaporates, add a little boiling water to keep it from 
 burning in the pan, and baste as often as the skin of the 
 turkey becomes dry, until the roasting is completed. 
 
 To Roast a Chicken. — The method of preparing and 
 roasting a chicken is the same as for preparing and 
 roasting a turkey. The time required for roasting a 
 chicken varies, according to its size and age. But an 
 hour and a half is sufficient time to allow for a large, 
 full-grown chicken not over a year old. Fowls more 
 
Baking. 55 
 
 than a year old should be steamed a longer or shorter 
 time, according to age, before being roasted, or they 
 will be tough and dry. But boiling and stewing are 
 such admirable methods of cooking tough fowls that it is 
 advisable never to roast a chicken unless it is young and 
 tender. 
 
 To Roast Wild Duck. — After wild ducks have been 
 prepared for roasting, rub them inside with salt and 
 pepper, put in each duck a small piece of butter and a 
 little currant or cranberry jelly, and roast twenty-five or 
 thirty minutes ; or fill them with bread moistened with 
 currant or cranberry juice and seasoned with salt, 
 pepper, and butter. A wild duck that has a fishy 
 flavor will be improved by parboiling, before roasting, 
 in water with a medium-sized onion. 
 
 To Roast Quails. — Stuff, place on their backs close 
 together in a roasting pan, and put in a very hot oven. 
 As soon as they are nicely browned, baste with mush- 
 room, celery, or some simple sauce. Quail will roast in 
 about thirty minutes. 
 
 To Roast Sweetbreads. — Sweetbreads, after they have 
 been soaked in salt water and properly trimmed, should 
 be rolled in flour, then in melted butter, placed close 
 together in a roasting pan, put in a hot oven, and, when 
 brown, basted with any sauce preferred. 
 
 To Bake a Heart and Liver. — Soak the liver an hour 
 in cold water that has been well salted. Boil the heart 
 in salted water until tender. Then put them in the 
 baking pan together, and dredge with flour. Add a 
 spoonful of butter and a sprinkle of pepper to the 
 water in which the heart boiled, and pour into the pan 
 
56 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 with the heart and liver. Baste frequently and bake an 
 hour. 
 
 A calf or beef tongue can be boiled and baked in the 
 same manner as a heart. The skin must be removed 
 from the tongue when boiled, before it is prepared for 
 baking. 
 
 To Bake a Fish. — Fill the fish lightly with stuffing 
 prepared as directed on page 28, and truss it in this 
 manner : Mak^e a large knot on the end of a strong 
 piece of twine, or tie the end of the twine around a 
 short wire skewer. With a trussing needle draw the 
 twine through the fish, close to the head, then slightly 
 below the middle, and again close to the tail. Draw the 
 cord or twine tight enough to hold the fish in a position 
 resembling the letter S, and fasten it. Place the fish on 
 its belly in a roasting pan and bake until cooked and 
 nicely browned, basting occasionally while it is baking 
 with hot water and butter, or with a thin gravy, if pre- 
 ferred. When cooked, remove the cord and serve the 
 fish in the same curved position in which it was baked, 
 on a warm platter, garnished with parsley, cress, or 
 celery ; or bake, without stuffing, in this manner : Make 
 gashes across the fish, on each side, about two inches 
 apart. Put slices of salt pork or breakfast bacon in the 
 baking pan, and lay the fish on them. Cover the 
 gashes on the upper side in a similar manner with slices 
 of pork or bacon, then set in the oven, and close the 
 door until the fish is cooked. If the oven is at the 
 proper temperature the fish will require no attention 
 until ready to serve. The length of time required to 
 bake a fish depends upon its size, but when sufficiently 
 
Baking. 57 
 
 cooked the flesh will flake and separate easily. A 
 medium-sized fish will roast in three quarters of an 
 hour. A quick heat is necessary to develop the finest 
 flavors of fish ; and to bake a fish properly it should be 
 given all the heat it will bear without burning. 
 
 To Scollop Oysters. — Drain a quart of oysters. To 
 a pint of Bread Crumbs No. 2 add salt and pepper 
 suflicient to season the oysters properly. Mix the 
 seasoning uniformly through the crumbs with a fork. 
 Then enrich them by sprinkling through, and mixing 
 with them, half a cup of melted butter. Take a fire- 
 proof dish or baking pan not more than two inches 
 deep, in which to cook the oysters. Scatter a thin 
 layer of the seasoned crumbs over the bottom of the 
 dish. Cover the crumbs with oysters, laying the 
 oysters close together, but not overlapping each other. 
 Sprinkle with the crumbs until nearly hidden from view, 
 then add another layer of oysters and again sprinkle 
 with crumbs. The top layer of crumbs should be 
 heavier than either of the other layers — should contain 
 fully one half the quantity of crumbs used — and but 
 two layers of oysters should be put in the dish. Do 
 not pour oyster juice, water, or liquid of any kind over 
 the oysters after they are put in the dish. Bake in an 
 oven, at the same temperature as for beef, for fifteen or 
 twenty minutes, or until the crumbs on top are a rich 
 chestnut brown. Remove from the oven as soon as 
 cooked and serve at once, and the oysters will be 
 plump, juicy, hot to the center, and surrounded by a 
 delicious, moist coating of crumbs. 
 
 To Scollop Oysters, No. 2. — Drain a quart of oysters. 
 
58 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Scald and skim the juice drained from them. Butter a 
 baking dish and lay three or four thin sHces of buttered 
 toast upon the bottom of the dish. Put half the oysters 
 upon the toast. Cover them with thin slices of buttered 
 toast, and put the balance of the oysters upon the toast. 
 Add hot, sweet cream to the liquor drained from the 
 oysters until there is a pint in all, then season to taste 
 with salt and pepper, and pour it over the oysters in the 
 dish. Bake fifteen or twenty minutes in an oven at the 
 temperature for roasting meats. Serve at once. 
 
 If oysters are cooked a long time in a deep mass the 
 juices are drawn from them, and they become tough and 
 indigestible ; and if cracker crumbs are used in scollop- 
 ing oysters they give the oysters a peculiar, unpleasant 
 flavor. 
 
 To Bake Potatoes. — The potato furnishes an excel- 
 lent illustration of right and wrong methods of baking. 
 There is, of course, but one right method of baking 
 potatoes ; but they are baked by three different methods, 
 and it is only by accident, and not oftener than once in 
 ten times that the average cook in baking potatoes pur- 
 sues the proper method. Following one method, the 
 potato is placed in a very hot oven, and before it is half 
 cooked a thick crust is formed which is sure to be 
 charred and burned by the time the potato is thoroughly 
 baked. Following another method, the potato is placed 
 in an oven at a low temperature and the oven is allowed 
 to remain at the same temperature until the baking is 
 completed, in which case the result is a soft, flabby, 
 limp production devoid of character and almost flavor- 
 less. Following another method, which is the correct 
 
Baking, 59 
 
 one, the potato is placed in an oven of moderate tem- 
 perature and subjected to a gradually increasing heat, un- 
 til the inside is thoroughly cooked, the skin has assumed 
 a light brown color and a firm consistency, and the at- 
 mosphere is filled with the delicious aroma of a perfectly 
 baked potato. 
 
 An excellent method of baking potatoes, and one that 
 will be found convenient when it is necessary to bake 
 them in less time than is required to do it in the oven, is 
 this : Put the potatoes into boiling water and let them 
 boil rapidly for ten or fifteen minutes, then bake in a hot 
 oven until they are well cooked and have a rich brown 
 skin. Parboiling potatoes in this manner heats them all 
 through so quickly and thoroughly that the time required 
 to bake them afterward is reduced at least one half. 
 When baked potatoes are taken from the oven a gash 
 about an inch in length should be made lengthwise in 
 each potato, and the ends should then be pressed, to 
 widen the gash and permit the steam to escape. Baked 
 potatoes should be served in a deep dish or tureen, 
 lined with a napkin that can be lightly folded over so as 
 to protect them from the cold air. Served in this man- 
 ner they will remain hot and mealy for a considerable 
 length of time. 
 
 To Bake Sweet Potatoes. — Sweet potatoes may be 
 baked like white potatoes ; or they may be cooked in 
 this manner : Boil in a liberal quantity of water until 
 they can be easily punctured with a fork, then drain, re- 
 move the skin, divide into halves lengthwise, dust with 
 salt and sugar, roll in melted butter, place in a dripping 
 pan, and bake in a hot oven until a rich brown crust is 
 
6o The Art of Cookery. 
 
 formed. After sweet potatoes have been parboiled and 
 peeled they may be put in the roasting pan with turkey, 
 chicken, beef, veal, or other meats, and thus baked. 
 White potatoes can be treated in a similar manner. 
 Sweet potatoes are improved in flavor by being very 
 thoroughly cooked. 
 
 To Bake Tomatoes. — Select perfect tomatoes of me- 
 dium size, wash, wipe, and place together, with the stem 
 side down, in a shallow earthen or porcelain-lined baking 
 dish that has been well greased with butter. Bake in a 
 hot oven an hour, or until the skins are brown and the 
 tomatoes cooked all through. Serve with salt, pepper, 
 butter, and a sprinkle of sugar, if liked. 
 
 Or wash and wipe medium -sized tomatoes, cut them 
 in halves, and place, skin side down, in a baking dish. 
 Then season with salt, pepper, and sugar, if liked, cover 
 with prepared Bread Crumbs No. 2, and bake until 
 the crumbs are nicely browned and the tomatoes well 
 cooked. 
 
 Another method of baking tomatoes is to lay the to- 
 matoes, after they have been peeled, in a buttered bak- 
 ing dish, season with salt, pepper, and sugar, baste with 
 melted butter, and bake till nicely browned. 
 
 Still another method is to cover the bottom of a but- 
 tered baking dish with prepared bread crumbs, fill 
 with tomatoes that have been peeled and sliced, sprinkle 
 a layer of bread crumbs on the tomatoes, and bake. 
 
 A little finely minced onion — about a tablespoonful to 
 each quart of tomatoes — may be added to tomatoes that 
 are to be baked, either by sprinkling on the bottom or 
 top of the dish. 
 
Baking. 6 1 
 
 To Bake Onions. — Peel the onions, put them in a 
 buttered baking dish, season with salt and pepper, and 
 baste with butter. Then cover the dish and bake until 
 the onions are tender. Serve in this condition ; or re- 
 move the cover and let the surface of the onions brown 
 before serving. Or the butter may be omitted, and as 
 soon as the onions are tender a tablespoonful of cream 
 for each onion may be added, and the cooking continued 
 for ten or fifteen minutes longer. 
 
 Another method of baking onions is to peel, boil in 
 salted water ten minutes, drain, put in a buttered baking 
 pan, season with salt and pepper, add a little butter and 
 milk, and cook slowly until done ; or omit the butter 
 and milk, and add a tablespoonful of soup stock for each 
 onion. 
 
 To Bake Squash, No. i. — Select a solid Hubbard, or 
 other good squash. Wash, wipe, and cut in pieces a 
 suitable size for serving. Lay the pieces close together, 
 skin side down, in a shallow baking pan, and bake in a 
 moderate oven an hour, or until thoroughly cooked. 
 
 To Bake Squash, No. 2. — Pare and cut in pieces, 
 put in a crock, cover closely, and bake two hours, then 
 mash smooth, and season to taste with salt, pepper, and 
 butter. 
 
 To Bake Corn, No. i. — Turn back the husk on 
 each ear of corn and carefully remove the silk, then re- 
 place the husk and tie at the small end. Lay the ears 
 thus prepared in a baking pan and bake in a hot oven 
 half an hour, or until thoroughly cooked. 
 
 To Bake Corn, No. 2. — Cut the corn from the cob, 
 and scrape off the milk and eyes of the grains. To 
 
62 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 each pint of corn thus prepared add a quarter of a pint 
 of sweet cream, milk, or water, season to taste with salt, 
 pepper, and butter, pour into a buttered pudding dish, 
 and bake half an hour, or until cooked. 
 
 To Bake Beans. — Soak a quart of white beans in 
 cold water over night, or for eight or ten hours, then 
 drain and put to cook in sufficient cold water to cover 
 them. Add a teaspoonful of salt and half a teaspoonful 
 of soda, and as soon as the water boils drain it off. Put 
 in the pot in which the beans are to be baked half a 
 pound of salt pork or corned beef and a tablespoonful of 
 white sugar, or twice as much New Orleans molasses. 
 Pour in the beans, fill the pot to within an inch of the 
 top with boiling water, cover with a close-fitting lid, and 
 bake in a very moderate oven from twelve to eighteen 
 hours. As the water evaporates replace it with sufficient 
 boiling water to keep the beans covered during the 
 entire time they are in the oven. If the beans are liked 
 browned they can be poured into a shallow baking pan 
 and put in a hot oven until they are the color desired. 
 
 To Bake Apples, No. i. — Select apples of a uniform 
 size, remove the center of the blossom end and specks 
 that may be in the fruit, wash and rinse in clean water, 
 place, stems upward, in an earthen or granite-ware 
 baking dish, pierce in several places with a fork, and 
 put in an oven at the temperature required for bread. 
 When perfectly baked the skins will be brown, and the 
 flesh soft and rich in flavor. 
 
 To Bake Apples, No. 2. — Pare and core the apples, 
 leaving them whole, rinse in cold water, and place close 
 together in a baking dish, the bottom of which has 
 
Baking. 63 
 
 been well greased with butter and lightly sprinkled with 
 granulated sugar. Sprinkle sugar over the apples and 
 bake in a hot oven until they are a rich brown color. 
 Unless the apples are very tart and juicy they should, 
 when put to bake, be covered for about ten minutes. 
 Apples baked in this manner are delicious served with 
 the meat course at dinner. If they are to be served 
 with cream for dessert, a little water and more sugar 
 may be added when put to bake, and they may also be 
 flavored with orange, lemon, or other fruit flavoring. 
 But if the seeds are removed from the cores and put in 
 the baking dish with the apples they will give them a 
 finer flavor than any foreign flavoring substance that 
 can be added. 
 
 Sweet apples may be baked in the same manner as 
 sour apples, but when pared, they should be basted 
 with thin syrup, or with New Orleans molasses and 
 water mixed in equal proportions. 
 
 Pears are baked in all respects like apples. 
 
 To Bake Bananas. — Peel the bananas, roll in melted 
 butter and granulated sugar, lay a little distance apart 
 in a roasting pan, and brown in a hot oven. Shake the 
 pan occasionally while the bananas are baking. 
 
 To Bake Almonds. — To blanch or skin almonds pour 
 hot water over them and let them remain in the water 
 until the skins can be slipped ofl" readily. After they are 
 blanched mix a teaspoonful of olive oil or melted butter 
 with each quart of almonds, put them in a roasting pan, 
 and cook till a light brown, in an oven of the tempera- 
 ture required for bread. Dust with fine salt as soon as 
 taken from the oven. 
 
64 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To Bake Rice Pudding. — Stir together one cup of 
 rice, one cup of granulated sugar, nine cups of cold, 
 sweet milk, and salt to taste. Pour into a baking dish 
 and put in an oven, the temperature of which is so 
 low that it will require about half an hour to bring the 
 mixture to boiling heat. As soon as the surface of the 
 milk thickens and becomes wrinkled it should be stirred 
 well, and every time the scum forms the stirring should 
 be repeated, until the rice is tender. As soon as the 
 rice is tender the stirring should cease, but the heat of 
 the oven should be increased until the surface of the 
 pudding assumes a light brown color. It is then suffi- 
 ciently baked and should be removed from the oven. If 
 easier or more convenient, the pudding may be cooked 
 on the top of the range where the heat is gentle, until 
 it is ready to bake and brown in the oven. This slow, 
 gradual cooking condenses the milk and swells and 
 cooks the rice, thus giving without the addition of 
 cream, butter, or eggs, a rich pudding that is finer in 
 flavor and more digestible because of the absence of 
 these ingredients. 
 
 To Bake Custards. — Custards and all souffle pud- 
 dings — puddings composed largely of eggs — should be 
 baked at a low, uniform temperature. For this reason 
 it is advisable to bake by setting the dish containing the 
 custard or pudding in a pan of hot water, in the oven. 
 A custard pudding is cooked sufficiently as soon as it 
 becomes stiffened at the center, and when it reaches that 
 condition should be immediately removed from the oven. 
 If allowed to remain longer the eggs harden, whey ap- 
 pears, and the delicacy of the pudding is destroyed. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 The chimney-bar, and the crane on which half-a- 
 dozen pots and kettles of various sizes dangled, have so 
 effectually passed into oblivion, that, to people of the 
 present generation, the names of these articles, so in- 
 dispensable to every kitchen only half a century ago, 
 have no significance whatever. Indeed, the open fire- 
 place is so completely superseded by the cook-stove and / 
 range, that the statement of their ever having been in 
 general use for cooking purposes sounds more like a 
 poetic fiction than a prosy fact. Even on the outer 
 verge of civilization houses are now usually built without 
 fireplaces ; and the cook-stove is in such general use 
 that it is often set up under a tree, or in a temporary 
 tent, and there brought into requisition for culinary 
 purposes, while the future house of the pioneer is in 
 process of erection. In the mode of boiling now 
 generally pursued on stoves and ranges, there is, how- 
 ever, no material change from that which was in vogue 
 when the pot hung on the bar or crane in the huge fire- 
 place, and its steam went puffing up the wide-mouthed 
 chimney. 
 
 Boiling is the term applied to the cooking of articles 
 in water after it has reached the boiling point. When 
 the density of the water is increased by the addition of 
 
 65 
 
66 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 salt or sugar, or some other substances, it retains heat 
 longer, and requires a higher temperature to make it 
 boil; but on mountains, or where the pressure of the 
 atmosphere is lessened by any cause, it boils at a lower 
 temperature. The thermometer shows that under ordi- 
 nary conditions, at the level of the sea, water boils at 
 212 degrees, and that after it has reached the boiling 
 point and begins to escape in steam, it is only a waste of 
 fuel to increase the heat of the fire. The water will 
 evaporate or pass off in steam more rapidly by the 
 addition of more heat, but it will grow no hotter, and 
 articles immersed in it will cook no sooner by being 
 rapidly boiled. 
 
 Hard and Soft Water. — The solvent power of soft 
 water is much greater than that of hard water. Conse- 
 quently soft water, or water that is free from mineral 
 matter, makes its way into organized tissue much more 
 readily than hard water, and is, on that account, prefer- 
 able for such culinary purposes as making soups, tea, 
 coffee, and all infusions where the object is to extract 
 the valuable properties of the animal and vegetable mat- 
 ter subjected to the process of boiling or steeping. The 
 solvent action of soft water upon some green vegetables 
 is powerful enough, however, to destroy the firmness 
 essential to the preservation of their juices and their 
 peculiarly distinctive flavors, and to guard against this 
 dissolving action, and prevent the vegetables from be- 
 coming too tender, it is advisable to salt quite freely the 
 water in which they are to be boiled, so as to harden 
 it sufficiently to preserve the form of the vegetables and 
 hinder the evaporation of their flavoring principles. 
 
Boiling. 67 
 
 How to Boil. — Fish, meats, and poultry that are to be 
 boiled should be immersed in boiling water, and boiled 
 rapidly for from two to ten minutes — the length of time 
 depending upon the article to be cooked — and should 
 then be permitted to fall to simmering temperature, at 
 which temperature the water should be held as uniformly 
 as possible until the process of cooking is finished. The 
 reason for such mode of procedure is simply this : 
 When a piece of meat is plunged into boiling water the 
 outer part contracts, the albumen, which is nearer the 
 surface, coagulates, and the internal juices are kept 
 from escaping into the water by which it is surrounded, 
 or from being diluted and weakened by the absorption 
 of water through the pores of the flesh. And the very 
 reason that should induce us to place meats in boiling 
 water and boil them rapidly for a few minutes should 
 deter us, if we gave the matter any thought, from con- 
 tinuing the rapid boiling. The coagulating and harden- 
 ing process, which is desirable for the outside of the 
 meat, any one can see at a glance, is undesirable when it 
 is no longer necessary to form a coating or barrier for 
 the preservation of its juices and flavors. Therefore, 
 after meat has been boiled rapidly for a short time 
 the remainder of the cooking should be done gently, by 
 simmering, so that it can go on gradually through the 
 agency of the natural moisture of the flesh being con- 
 verted into steam or vapor by the heat. For meat when 
 properly cooked — whether on a spit, in an oven, or sub- 
 merged in boiling liquid — is cooked mainly by its own 
 steam. And the skill of a cook consists to a great ex- 
 tent in knowing how to regulate and temper the heat. 
 
68 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 To subject a medium-sized fish to rapid boiling for two 
 minutes effects as much in the way of hardening the sur- 
 face and preventing the escape of juices and the loss of 
 flavors as ten minutes does for a leg of mutton ; and for 
 an ordinary sized piece of meat of any kind ten minutes 
 is about the longest time required for this purpose. 
 Salted meats before being put to boil should always be 
 soaked for several hours in cold water. 
 
 The difference between the right and wrong method 
 of boiling is perhaps as apparent in boiled chicken as 
 in any other article. A chicken immersed in a large 
 quantity of water and boiled rapidly until ragged be- 
 comes a tasteless object, only a trifle more nutritious than 
 soup meat ; but boiled properly in a small quantity of 
 liquid, the skin remains unbroken, the flesh becomes 
 tender, and all the juices and flavors are retained in the 
 fowl. A properly boiled chicken is a very appetizing 
 dish, and is occasionally a desirable change from the 
 almost invariable roast chicken. 
 
 To Boil a Chicken. — Stuff the chicken, after it has 
 been properly dressed, with Bread Crumbs No. i, 
 seasoned sharply with salt and pepper, and moistened 
 until sufficiently rich with melted butter. Truss the legs 
 and wings close to the body. Wrap and fasten se- 
 curely in a cloth that has deen dipped in hot water and 
 dredged with flour. Put into a kettle of boiling, salted 
 water — being careful to have enough water to com- 
 pletely submerge the chicken — and cook until the skin 
 assumes a gelatinous appearance and the fowl becomes 
 tender. When done take out, carefully remove all the 
 trussing strings and skewers, and lay on a platter. 
 
Boiliyig. 6g 
 
 Serve, with egg, parsley, oyster, celery, or caper sauce. 
 
 A turkey, or any other fowl, can be boiled in the same 
 manner. 
 
 To Boil a Leg of Lamb. — Wipe, trim off the fat, 
 wrap and fasten securely in a wet cloth dredged with 
 flour, put in a kettle of boiling water, slightly salted, 
 and cook until tender. When sufficiently done take 
 from the kettle, dip an instant in cold water, remove 
 the cloth, and place the boiled joint on a platter. Serve 
 with drawn butter, or with egg, parsley, or caper sauce. 
 
 Mutton can be boiled and served in the same way. 
 
 To Boil a Fish. — Dredge the prepared fish lightly 
 with flour, wrap and secure firmly in a cloth, put in a 
 kettle, and cook in slightly salted boiling water. A 
 medium-sized fish will boil in about half an hour, and 
 when it is sufficiently cooked the flesh will flake and sepa- 
 rate easily. As soon as done take from the kettle, re- 
 move the cloth in which it was boiled, drain well, lay in 
 a folded napkin on a hot platter, garnish with lemon 
 points and sprigs of parsley, and serve with drawn but- 
 ter or fish sauce. 
 
 To Boil a Ham. — Put the prepared ham to cook in 
 boiling water, with the skin side down, and keep it sim- 
 mering uninterruptedly until sufficiently tender. Allow 
 about twenty minutes' cooking to each pound, and if at 
 the end of that time the ham is not thoroughly done 
 continue the boiling until it can be pierced easily with a 
 fork. If to be eaten cold, let it remain in the water in 
 which it was cooked until cold, then skin and serve as 
 desired ; or, after the skin has been removed, cover with 
 fine bread crumbs, moisten with sugar and vinegar, and 
 
70 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 brown in the oven. If to be eaten warm, take from the 
 vessel in which it was cooked as soon as sufficiently 
 tender, remove the skin, lay on a platter, and serve. 
 
 To Boil Corned Beef. — If the beef is too salt soak in 
 cold water until sufficiently freshened, then put to cook 
 in boiling water enough to just cover it and cook until 
 very tender. Cabbage, cauliflower, turnips, spinach, 
 beans, or carrots can be appropriately served with 
 corned beef 
 
 To Boil Spiced Beef. — Select the rump, round, or 
 flank, and if very lean lard with salt pork, or beef suet. 
 Put in a kettle with a medium-sized onion, carrot, and 
 turnip, two or three sprigs of parsley, some trimmings 
 of celery, six cloves, six pepper corns, and a tablespoonful 
 of salt. Cover with boiling water and cook very gently 
 from four to six hours, according to the age and con- 
 dition of the meat. When the meat is perfectly cooked 
 lift it on to a platter, strain the broth, remove the grease 
 from it, thicken with butter and flour cooked together 
 until brown (see Brown Sauce No. i), and serve the 
 sauce with the meat. 
 
 To Boil an Egg. — Pour a pint of boiling water into a 
 small sauce-pan or other vessel, put the ^^^ in it, cover 
 closely, place it where it will keep hot, and let stand for 
 about six minutes. An ^^% so cooked will be evenly 
 done all through without being hard, semi-raw, or slimy, 
 and will be tender, delicate, and delicious. To cook 
 eggs properly in this manner a pint of water should be 
 allowed for each ^%%. And if many eggs are to be 
 cooked at one time the inconvenience of using a large 
 quantity of water can be avoided by pouring boiling 
 
Boiling. 71 
 
 water upon the eggs, letting it stand a minute, then 
 pouring it off and replacing with more boiling water. 
 
 To hard-boil an ^^% put it in a pint of boiling water 
 and let it remain there twenty minutes. This will render 
 the yolk dry and mealy. Or put the ^^^ in cold water, 
 bring the water to the boiling point, and let the ^%^ re- 
 main in it for fifteen minutes. 
 
 To Boil Vegetables. — The general rule in regard to 
 vegetables is : Put them to cook in slightly salted 
 boiling water and keep them simmering until done. 
 
 To Boil Potatoes. — Boiling is the most common 
 method of cooking potatoes, yet comparatively few 
 people know how to boil a potato so that it will be dry, 
 mealy, and fine-flavored. To boil either pared or 
 unpared potatoes, put them in a liberal allowance of 
 slightly salted boiling water, and keep them cooking 
 gently until tender enough to be pierced easily with a 
 fork, then drain off the water, sprinkle a little salt over 
 the potatoes, cover them with a towel or napkin, and 
 set the kettle containing them back on the range where 
 they will dry off and keep warm. A medium-sized 
 potato will boil in twenty-five minutes. Some prefer to 
 have potatoes pared before they are put to cook, others 
 prefer to have them boiled in their skins and the skins 
 removed before the potatoes are sent to table, while 
 others again prefer to have them boiled and served in 
 their skins. But as there is no positive evidence that 
 they are more nutritious or digestible when cooked pared, 
 than they are when cooked unpared, it may be safely 
 left to individual taste or fancy to determine whether 
 potatoes shall be boiled with or without their skins. 
 
72 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To Boil Macaroni. — Macaroni is composed of wheat 
 flour and water, and is simply paste of the proper con- 
 sistency formed into certain shapes and dried. But it 
 occupies the anomalous position of being classed among 
 vegetables, and this is the best method of cooking it : 
 Break the macaroni in pieces any length desired, put 
 into well-salted boiling water, cook an hour, or until 
 tender enough to be easily mashed with the fingers, 
 then drain in a colander. Macaroni is inexpensive, is 
 easily prepared for the table, and when properly cooked 
 makes a very palatable and nutritious dish. Boiled 
 macaroni should be served with drawn butter, or with 
 white, brown, tomato, or other sauce, or with grated 
 cheese. 
 
 To Boil Asparagus. — Wash the asparagus, tie it in 
 small bundles, cook till tender, and serve on toast, with 
 melted butter, white sauce, or sauce Hollandaise. 
 
 To Boil String Beans. — Put the prepared beans in 
 boiling water slightly salted, boil gently fifteen minutes, 
 drain, add just enough boiling water to cover the beans, 
 simmer gently till tender, serve with melted butter or 
 white sauce ; or let the water evaporate, as the beans 
 become sufficiently cooked, add sweet cream, and season 
 with salt and pepper. 
 
 To Boil Cauliflower. — Trim, wash, boil gently until 
 tender, drain carefully, put in a vegetable dish, and dress 
 with drawn butter or white sauce. The white sauce 
 may be flavored with grated cheese. 
 
 To Boil Corn. — Remove the husk and silk from the 
 ears of corn, boil ten minutes, or until cooked, cut the 
 corn from the cob, season with salt, pepper, and butter, 
 
Boiling. 73 
 
 and serve in a heated dish ; or lay the ears on a platter 
 and serve. 
 
 To Boil Carrots. — Wash, scrape, boil till tender, 
 drain, season with butter, salt, and pepper ; or slice and 
 serve with white sauce. 
 
 To Boil Beets. — Wash the beets, boil them till tender, 
 rub off the skin, cut in slices, and season with salt, pep- 
 per, and melted butter. 
 
 To Boil Cabbage. — Trim, wash, and divide each head 
 of cabbage in quarters or eighths, boil till tender, drain, 
 press out the water, and serve with white sauce or drawn 
 butter. 
 
 To Boil Turnips. — Wash and pare the turnips, boil 
 till tender, drain in a colander, press out the water, 
 mash fine, and season with salt, pepper, and butter. Or 
 after they are drained cut in slices and serve with cream, 
 or with drawn butter to which vinegar or lemon juice 
 has been added until it is slightly acid. 
 
 To Boil Parsnips. — Wash, boil till tender, drain, cut 
 in slices, serve with drawn butter, or with a white sauce 
 to which a little vinegar or lemon juice may be added. 
 
 To Boil Sweet Potatoes. — Wash, boil till tender, 
 drain, and dry off the same as white potatoes. Sweet 
 potatoes are much dryer and nicer steamed than boiled. 
 
 To Boil Spinach. — Put the prepared spinach in a 
 small quantity of boiling water, cover closely, boil ten 
 minutes, or till tender, drain in a colander, press out the 
 water, season with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve 
 with poached eggs, or with hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. 
 Or after it is cooked and drained, chop fine, put in a 
 stew-pan with a lump of butter, add a little sweet cream, 
 
74 ^/^^ ■^'^^'"■^ of Cookery. 
 
 season with salt and pepper, stir till well heated, and 
 serve with, or without, poached or hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 To Boil Rice. — Put a cup of prepared rice into two 
 quarts of boiling water and boil rapidly for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes, drain in a sieve or colander, return to the vessel 
 in which it was cooked, and set on the back of the range 
 to dry off. Rice cooked and drained in this manner is 
 very good, but is dry and tasteless in comparison with 
 rice cooked according to the following method : Put a 
 cup of rice into three cups of cold water slightly salted. 
 Place it over a moderately brisk fire. Stir from the 
 bottom occasionally with a wooden spoon, while the rice 
 is swelling. After the water begins to boil briskly, 
 and the rice to hop about, let it cook without stirring 
 until it becomes so tender that the grains can be crushed 
 between the fingers, then remove to a cooler part of the 
 range and let simmer gently for a few minutes. During 
 the time it is simmering lift the rice lightly from the 
 bottom of the vessel by inserting a fork at the side of, 
 and underneath, the rice. This lifting with the fork is 
 quite important, as it aids the drying off, and, when 
 skilfully done, leaves the grains distinct and separate. 
 
 CEREALS. 
 
 Preparations of the different varieties of grain are 
 growing into popular favor so rapidly that every one 
 should be acquainted with the best method of preparing 
 them. Oatmeal, rolled wheat, hominy, and other cereals, 
 when sent to table, as they generally are, in a half-raw, 
 sloppy, or slimy condition, are not inviting articles of 
 diet, and if eaten at all are eaten under protest and with- 
 
Boiling, 75 
 
 out relish. Yet when properly cooked and served, any- 
 one of them will make as delicious a breakfast or supper 
 dish as can be desired. 
 
 To Cook Cereals. — Pearled wheat, pearled barley, 
 cracked wheat, crushed wheat, rolled wheat, rolled bar- 
 ley, rolled oats, oatmeal, avena, coarse hominy, fine hom- 
 iny, farina, farinose, and numerous other grain products 
 that belong in the category of cereals can be cooked 
 very nicely in an ordinary agate ware or porcelain-lined 
 stew-pan, if carefully watched and frequently stirred. 
 But as much stirring, while cooking, renders cereals 
 starchy and robs them of some of their finest flavors it is 
 better, as well as more convenient, to cook them in a 
 double boiler or farina kettle. Fill the outside boiler 
 about two thirds full of boiling water, set the inside 
 boiler or kettle in it, put the proper quantity of boiling 
 liquid in the inside kettle, add the requisite amount of 
 salt, and sprinkle in the grain or meal, stirring slowly 
 until it swells or thickens enough to keep it from settling 
 on the bottom of the kettle, then cease stirring, cover 
 closely, and let it simmer until thoroughly cooked. All 
 mushes thicken in cooling, and in preparing any of the 
 cereals to be eaten cold, the proportion of liquid used 
 should be increased about one third. Water alone can 
 be used for cooking any of the grains or grain products; 
 but some of them are richer and finer flavored when the 
 liquid used in their preparation is milk and water mixed 
 in about equal proportions. This is more especially the 
 case with barley, rice, hominy, farina, and farinose. 
 The quantity of salt that should be used in cooking 
 cereals depends considerably upon individual taste, but 
 
76 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 care should be taken not to use too much, and a safe 
 general rule is to add half a teaspoonful of salt to each 
 pint of liquid. 
 
 The general idea is that the cereals — grains and grain 
 products of all kinds — can be cooked in from ten to 
 thirty minutes, and most of them are served after they 
 have been cooked about that length of time. All 
 cereals, however, are much finer flavored and more 
 digestible when thoroughly cooked — in fact, thorough 
 cooking is the main point to be observed in the prepa- 
 ration of cereals for the table — and this necessitates cook- 
 ing them slowly, in a proper quantity of liquid, for a 
 considerable length of time. If liquid has to be added 
 during the process of cooking, or has to be drained off, 
 after the grain is thoroughly cooked, some of the fine 
 flavor is lost, and the result of such improper methods is 
 generally an insipid mess, instead of a savory and appe- 
 tizing dish. It is, therefore, very important that the 
 same cup or vessel used for measuring the grain should 
 be used for measuring the liquid in which the grain is to 
 be cooked, so that the quantity of liquid be just sufficient 
 to make the mush or porridge the proper consistency, 
 and to perfectly develop the flavor of the cereal. 
 
 The amount of liquid necessary, and the length of 
 time required for cooking cereals properly, depend 
 greatly on the nature of the cereals and the manner in 
 which they have been milled or prepared, and cannot be 
 given with accuracy without knowing the special brand 
 of the cereal to be cooked. The following will, how- 
 ever, be found approximately correct as regards the 
 proportions of grain and liquid to be used, and the 
 
Boiling. 77 
 
 length of time required to cook the grain and grain 
 products mentioned : 
 
 Farina. — Six cups of Hquid to each cup of farina. 
 Cook half an hour. 
 
 Coarse hominy. — Six cups of liquid to each cup of 
 hominy. Cook from six to ten hours. 
 
 Cracked wheat. — Five cups of liquid to each cup of 
 wheat. Cook from three to six hours. 
 
 Fine hominy. — Four cups of liquid to each cup of 
 hominy. Cook from three to six hours. 
 
 Coarse oatmeal. — Four cups of liquid to each cup of 
 oatmeal. Cook from three to six hours. 
 
 Rolled wheat, barley, or oats. — Three cups of liquid 
 to each cup of grain. Cook an hour. 
 
 BEVERAGES. 
 
 To Make Coffee, No. i. — Any variety of coffee preferred 
 may be used for making the beverage, but a mixture of 
 one third Mocha and two thirds Java and two table- 
 spoonfuls, or about an ounce, of ground coffee to each 
 pint of water makes coffee that suits the average taste. 
 It may be made stronger or weaker if desired, but it is 
 always better to make coffee too strong than too weak. 
 If it is made too strong it is easy to weaken it by the 
 addition of water or milk, but if made too weak it is a 
 difficult matter to strengthen it. 
 
 When a pot with a cloth bag or other strainer is used 
 in making coffee it is only necessary to put the desired 
 quantity of finely ground coffee into the strainer, pour 
 slowly over it one third the quantity of boiling water to 
 be used in making the coffee, cover the pot closely, and 
 
78 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 let stand until the water has trickled through the strainer, 
 then pour on another third, and when that has trickled 
 through add the remaining third, and in a minute the 
 coffee will be ready to serve. 
 
 It is not advisable to pour on all the water at once, as 
 rinsing the coffee several times extracts the strength 
 more perfectly. And to pour on all the water at once 
 and pour the dripped coffee back into the strainer ex- 
 poses it to loss of both strength and flavor. The water 
 should be boiling hot when poured over the coffee, and 
 should at first be poured around the outer edge of the 
 coffee close to the sides of the pot and gradually toward 
 the center. If poured into the center at first the coffee 
 will be forced against the sides of the strainer without 
 being moistened enough to extract its strength. Coffee 
 should be ground quite fine for making it in this man- 
 ner, but should not be crushed or pulverized. 
 
 To Make Coffee, No. 2. — Mix the ground coffee with the 
 white of an ^%% and a little cold water, stir well together, 
 add half the amount of boiling water to be used in mak- 
 ing the coffee, and set the pot on the stove until it boils. 
 Let it simmer five minutes after it reaches the boiling 
 point, add the balance of the boiling water, pour out a cup 
 of the coffee and pour back into the pot, add a table- 
 spoonful of cold water, and the coffee is ready to serve. 
 
 To Make Coffee, No. 3. — Mix the coffee and &<g<g, add 
 one third the quantity of water to be used, cold, set the 
 pot on the stove until it boils, add another third of the 
 cold water., and as soon as it boils add the balance of 
 the cold water. When it again boils pour in a spoonful 
 of cold water and it will be ready to serve. 
 
Boiling. 79 
 
 Coffee should not be ground very fine when used in a 
 pot without a strainer. If pulverized or ground very 
 fine it renders the coffee troublesome to settle. 
 
 Sugar caramel, used to sweeten coffee, improves it for 
 many tastes, and coffee that is poor and flavorless can 
 be greatly improved by the addition of sugar caramel. 
 
 To Make Hygienic Coffee. — Pour a pint of New Or- 
 leans molasses over four quarts of clean, coarse, wheat 
 bran and rub lightly between the hands until thoroughly 
 mixed. Put the moist bran in a roasting pan and roast 
 in the oven like coffee, stirring every few minutes, until 
 it assumes a rich brown color. Make the same as Coffee 
 No. 2, using about twice the quantity, or mix, in equal 
 proportions, with any variety of ground coffee, and make 
 in the same manner. 
 
 To Make Green Tea. — The proper quantity of tea to 
 use is one teaspoonful to each pint of water. Heat the 
 teapot by rinsing it well with boiling water. Put the 
 tea in the pot, pour on enough boiling water to thor- 
 oughly saturate it. Set the pot back on the stove 
 where it will keep hot, but not boil, and let the tea steep 
 from five to ten minutes, then pour on the quantity of 
 water needed, and the tea will be ready for use ; or pour 
 on all the water at once, when the tea is put in the pot, 
 and let it steep. 
 
 To Make Black or Oolong Tea. — Use two teaspoon- 
 fuls of tea to each pint of water and make the same as 
 green tea. 
 
 To Make Ceylon or English Breakfast Tea. — These 
 varieties of tea should be steeped at table, as they lose 
 immensely in flavor by standing even a few minutes. 
 
8o The Art of Cookery. 
 
 They are frequently steeped in individual cups, but are 
 finer flavored when made in a pot. Have the pot well 
 heated. Put in two or three teaspoonfuls of tea to each 
 pint of water — the exact quantity can be determined 
 only by the special kind of tea — add the boiling water, 
 and the tea will be ready for use at once. 
 
 The gases that are in water and give it an agreeable 
 flavor, are driven off by boiling, and water that has 
 boiled for any length of time, or that has stood in the 
 kettle and been reboiled, will not make good tea, 
 neither will water that has not quite reached the boiling 
 point. Therefore only freshly boiled boiling water should 
 be used for making tea. 
 
 To Make Chocolate or Cocoa. — Excellent chocolate 
 and cocoa can be prepared by following the formula that 
 accompanies each package of those respective articles. 
 
 To Make Koumiss. — Dissolve about half of a half- 
 ounce cake of compressed yeast and two tablespoonfuls 
 of granulated sugar in a quart of new milk. Pour into 
 a bottle, leaving an inch space at the top, cork tightly, 
 fasten the cork securely, and shake well. Let the bottle 
 stand at a temperature of not less than sixty degrees 
 from six to ten hours, then lay it on its side in an ice- 
 box or other cold place from four to six hours more, 
 and it will be ready for use. Bottles that have self- 
 fastening stoppers are the most convenient to use in 
 making koumiss. If it is preferred more acid let the 
 bottle remain in the ice-box a greater length of time. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 STEAMING. 
 
 Steaming is a modified form of boiling, in which food 
 is cooked Uy exposure to hot steam instead of by im- 
 mersion in boiling water. And a large proportion of 
 the puddings that are usually boiled, fish of a delicate 
 flavor, potatoes that fall to pieces easily in being boiled, 
 corn on the cob, rice when the starch is to be preserved, 
 Hubbard and other hard-shell squashes, and a variety of 
 other articles are better steamed than boiled. 
 
 To Steam a Fish. — Dust a prepared fish, inside 
 and outside, with salt. Dredge the outside lightly with 
 flour, wrap in a cloth, and place in a steamer over boil- 
 ing water. Cover the steamer closely, and cook until 
 the fish will flake easily. A five-pound fish will steam 
 in half an hour. Serve on a hot platter in a napkin. 
 Serve with it, in a tureen, drawn butter, parsley sauce, 
 egg sauce, or sauce HoUandaise. Boiled potatoes or 
 boiled carrots should be served with steamed fish, and 
 if a relish is desired, sliced cucumbers, sliced tomatoes, 
 cresses, or pickles are appropriate. Either catsup or 
 fish sauce is also permissible. 
 
 To Steam Oysters. — Wash the unopened shells con- 
 taining the oysters and place them in a steamer over 
 boiling water. Cover closely and cook five minutes. 
 Serve the oysters in their shells, and serve with them, 
 in a sauce tureen, hot lemon butter. 
 
 8i 
 
82 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Clams should be steamed in the same manner as 
 oysters. 
 
 To Steam Potatoes. — Place the potatoes, either pared 
 or unpared, in a steamer over boiling water. Cover 
 closely and cook forty-five minutes, or until the potatoes 
 are done, which can be ascertained by testing them 
 with a fork. Serve in a napkin in a heated dish, and 
 fold the corners of the napkin over the potatoes. 
 
 Sweet potatoes can be steamed in the same manner. 
 
 To Steam Corn. — Remove the outside husks and silk 
 from each ear of corn. Fold back the inner husks and 
 pick off worms, dirt, or defective grains, then twist the 
 husks together at the small end of the cob, and lay the 
 ears in a steamer over boiling water. Cook fifteen 
 minutes and serve, without removing the husk, in a 
 napkin, on a platter. 
 
 To Steam Rice. — Pick over and wash the rice. Put 
 it in the dish in which it is to be served and add a level 
 teaspoonful of salt and three cups of boiling water to 
 each cup of rice. Set in a steamer over boiling water, 
 and cook half an hour, or until the rice is tender. Milk 
 may be mixed with the water in any proportion de- 
 sired ; or, if preferred, milk alone may be used instead of 
 water. 
 
 To Steam Squash. — Wash the squash, saw it in half 
 crosswise, and with a stiff metal spoon remove the seeds 
 and stringy portions. Lay the prepared pieces, inside 
 down, in a steamer, over boiling water, and cook an 
 hour, or until done, then take from the steamer and 
 scrape the cooked squash clean from the shells. Put it 
 in a heated bowl or sauce-pan, season to taste with 
 
Steaming. 83 
 
 butter, salt, and pepper, mash smooth, and serve in a 
 heated tureen or vegetable dish. 
 
 If the squash should be watery, dry off in a sauce- 
 pan on the back of the range ; if very dry, add a little 
 sweet cream or milk in seasoning ; and if lacking in 
 sweetness, add a small quantity of sugar. 
 
 To Steam a Roly-Poly. — Wring a towel out of hot 
 water, dredge with flour, lay the pudding on it, and fold 
 the towel over the pudding. Place in a steamer over 
 boiling water, cook half an hour or longer — according 
 to the size or material of the pudding — and when done, 
 lift from the steamer, in the towel in which it cooked, 
 fold back the top covering, and roll the pudding upon a 
 hot platter. 
 
 To Steam a Batter Pudding. — Put the pudding in a 
 buttered mold, fasten on the lid, and place the mold in 
 a steamer over boiling water. Cover closely, and cook 
 from one to four hours, according to the special kind of 
 pudding. When the pudding is done submerge the 
 mold in cold water an instant, and the pudding will 
 turn out without difficulty. 
 
 To Steam Small Puddings. — Fill individual molds, or 
 cups, with the pudding batter or mixture, place in a 
 steamer over boiling water, cover closely, and cook 
 fifteen minutes, or longer, according to the special kind 
 of pudding. 
 
 To Steam Eggs. — Break the eggs into a shallow dish, 
 season to taste, and steam from three to five minutes. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 STEWING. 
 
 Stewing, like steaming, is merely a modified form of 
 boiling, differing from it mainly in these two respects : 
 In boiling, most articles are cooked whole and in consid- 
 erable water ; whereas, in stewing, they are usually 
 cut in pieces and cooked in a limited quantity of water. 
 For instance, a fowl, or joint of meat, may be boiled in 
 water enough to make a limited amount of soup, in addi- 
 tion to the sauce or gravy for the fowl or joint of meat ; 
 but neither should be stewed in a greater quantity of 
 liquid than is sufficient to cook it and make the sauce 
 with which it is served. There are exceptions to these 
 rules, as carrots, parsnips, onions, turnips, pie-plant, 
 and some other high-flavored vegetables, are improved 
 by parboiling and draining before being stewed ; but in 
 the main they hold good and are applicable to the boil- 
 ing and stewing of most articles of food. 
 
 To Stew a Chicken. — Cut the prepared chicken in 
 pieces suitable for serving. Separate the thigh, leg, and 
 wing joints, divide the breast into four or more compact 
 pieces, and separate the neck, back, etc. Put the giz- 
 zard, heart, wings, and legs in the bottom of the kettle, 
 then put in the neck, back, and bony pieces, reserving 
 the second joints and breast for the top. Add a pint of 
 boiling water for each full-grown fowl, cover the kettle 
 
 84 
 
Stewing. 85 
 
 closely, and after it has stewed a few minutes, add a 
 tablespoonful each of butter and flour stirred to a 
 smooth paste. Let it cook slowly, but unceasingly, until 
 the fowl is tender, which can be ascertained by examin- 
 ing the pieces on top. If the top pieces are found to be 
 sufficiendy cooked, those beneath will be also, as in 
 placing the pieces in the kettie, those requiring the most 
 cooking were put at the bottom so as to be subjected to 
 the greatest heat. A one-year-old fowl will stew in 
 about an hour and a half, and each added year in age 
 necessitates an additional hour's cooking. When the 
 fowl has stewed until perfecdy tender, drain into a bowl 
 all the liquid or broth, and set the ketde, with the pieces 
 undisturbed in it, upon the back of the stove. If the 
 broth is too oily, skim from it as much grease as you 
 wish, then add to it a spoonful of flour stirred to a 
 smooth paste with half a spoonful of butter, and season 
 highly with salt and pepper, as this broth or gravy must 
 season the entire fowl. After the gravy has been 
 seasoned, pour it over the fowl in the ketde, let it sim- 
 mer gendy for about ten minutes, then serve fowl and 
 gravy together in the same platter. 
 
 Meats stewed in a closely covered vessel need not be 
 entirely covered with liquid, and a fowl, by occasionally 
 turning, can be cooked whole in a quantity barely suffi- 
 cient for gravy or sauce. 
 
 Celery is always a suitable flavoring for stewed 
 chicken, and several roots or stalks of celery can be 
 added when the chicken is put to cook, and after being 
 stewed with it can be removed when the chicken is 
 served. Parsley may be used for flavoring whenever de- 
 
86 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 sired, and the flavor of stewed chicken may be varied 
 occasionally by cooking with the chicken a small onion 
 and a small blade of mace. 
 
 Stewed Chicken with Mushrooms. — After the broth 
 has been drained from stewed chicken as directed above, 
 add a pint of mushrooms to the chicken in the kettle 
 before pouring the gravy over it. If canned mushrooms 
 are used, add the water in the can to the broth, and 
 make into sauce. 
 
 Stewed Chicken with TrufEles. — Two medium-sized 
 truffles are sufficient to flavor a full-grown fowl. Cut 
 the truffles in small pieces, put them in the kettle with 
 the chicken when put to cook, and stew and serve 
 with it. 
 
 To Stew Veal. — The ribs, breast, and thin pieces 
 containing a good deal of fat are the most desirable por- 
 tions of veal for stewing. Remove the outer skin, cut 
 the meat in pieces suitable for serving, and stew and 
 serve like chicken. 
 
 To Stew Beef. — Select the same portions of beef as 
 of veal. Remove the outer skin, cut the meat in pieces 
 suitable for serving, put in a stew-pan or kettle with a 
 teaspoonful of salt and just sufficient hot water to cover 
 it, cover closely, and let cook until tender. Beef, if 
 young, will stew in three hours, but if old and tough 
 five or six hours' stewing may be required to cook it 
 perfectly. It is always best, however, in stewing meats 
 to allow sufficient time, as the stew when done can 
 generally be kept warm for several hours without detri- 
 ment. When the beef is cooked drain the broth from 
 it, remove the grease from the broth, add the necessary " 
 
Stewing. 87 
 
 quantity of flour and butter stirred to a smooth paste, 
 and, as soon as the flour is uniformly mixed with the 
 broth, season to taste with sah and pepper, pour over 
 the meat, simmer ten minutes, and serve. For flavoring 
 stewed beef an onion, a tomato, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 and two or three cloves, put to cook with the meat, 
 form a good combination. Another good combination 
 is formed by the addition of an onion, a carrot, and a 
 tomato, or an onion, a sweet turnip, and a tomato. 
 Celery roots and trimmings may be added to any of 
 these combinations, and always improve them. The 
 vegetables forming the flavoring combinations may be 
 removed from the stew before it is served, or may be 
 served with it. 
 
 To Stew Mutton. — Select thin portions of mutton in 
 which the lean and fat are about equally combined. 
 Remove the outer skin, cut the meat in pieces suitable 
 for serving, put it in a sauce-pan, add a teaspoonful of 
 salt and hot water enough to barely cover the meat. 
 Cover the sauce-pan closely, and let the meat cook 
 slowly for three or four hours, or until tender, then drain 
 the broth from it, remove the grease from the broth, add 
 to the broth a tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoon- 
 fuls of flour stirred to a smooth paste, and stir until the 
 butter melts and the flour mingles uniformly with the 
 broth. Then season to taste, pour over the mutton, add 
 a tablespoonful of minced parsley or capers, let simmer 
 five minutes, and serve. 
 
 No better flavoring material can be used for either 
 boiled or stewed mutton than parsley or capers. But, if 
 desired, a mixture of such vegetables as are appropri- 
 
88 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 ately used with stewed beef may be used with stewed 
 mutton. 
 
 To Stew Lamb. — Lamb should be prepared and 
 stewed like mutton. It, however, requires only an hour 
 and a half or two hours' stewing. Parsley or capers 
 make the best flavoring for stewed lamb. 
 
 To Stew Rabbit or Squirrel. — Rabbits and squirrels 
 are prepared and stewed in the same manner as fowls, 
 with the addition of a tablespoonful of minced parsley to 
 each rabbit or squirrel, when put to cook. Parsley 
 seems better adapted for seasoning rabbits or squirrels 
 than any other herb or flavoring principle ; but for an 
 occasional change any flavoring that is permissible 
 with chicken or veal may be used with either rabbit or 
 squirrel. 
 
 FRICASSEEING. 
 
 Stews are often, but very incorrectly, termed fricas- 
 sees. A fricassee is a combination of a saute and a 
 stew, and the meat for a fricassee should always be 
 sauted or browned before it is put to stew. This saut6- 
 ing or browning is best done in a small quantity of 
 clarified butter, although drippings of beef or veal may 
 be used, if preferred. 
 
 A brown stew can be made by adding the butter de- 
 signed for the gravy to the fowl or meat after it has 
 been stewed and the broth drained from it, and letting it 
 brown in the kettle or sauce-pan, then mixing the flour 
 for the gravy, with cold water, and adding to the broth 
 before it is poured over the browned meat. A stew 
 made in this manner resembles a fricassee somewhat, but 
 is in many respects inferior to it. 
 
Stewing. 89 
 
 To Fricassee a Chicken. — Prepare a chicken as for 
 stewing. Season the pieces with salt and pepper, roll in 
 flour, fry or saute until light brown in color, then place 
 in the stewing kettle. Put a pint of water in the pan in 
 which the chicken was browned and after it has sim- 
 mered five minutes pour it over the chicken. Cover the 
 kettle closely and let the chicken simmer gently until 
 cooked. Lift into a platter when done, and if there is 
 not sufficient sauce add more water, and more flour, if 
 required, to that in the kettle, cook five minutes, and 
 strain over the chicken. A spoonful of sweet cream 
 added to the sauce improves it for chicken or veal. 
 
 Lamb, mutton, and veal are prepared and fricasseed 
 in the same manner as chicken. 
 
 BRAISING. 
 
 Braising, like fricasseeing, is a combination of frying 
 or sauteing and stewing. It is usually done, however, 
 in an oven, in a braising pan having a close-fitting 
 cover. The advantages of braising over stewing, for 
 certain articles, are that a more uniform temperature 
 can be obtained and the flavors of the food be better 
 preserved on account of there being less evaporation. 
 Braising is an excellent mode of cooking tough meats 
 and poultry. 
 
 To Braise Poultry or Meats. — Prepare as for stew- 
 ing. Cut in pieces suitable for serving, season lightly 
 with salt and pepper, roll in flour, brown in clarified 
 butter or drippings in a frying pan or spider, then put 
 in a braising kettle with such vegetables, herbs, and 
 spices as are to be used for flavoring, add half as much 
 
90 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 water as for stewing, cover closely, set in a moderate 
 oven, and let cook slowly for several hours. Simple 
 veal or beef broth may be used in place of water. 
 
 To Braise a Calf*s Heart. — After the heart has 
 soaked an hour in cold salt water remove the cartilage, 
 fill the opening left by its removal with seasoned bread 
 crumbs or sausage meat, tie up and saute until brown, 
 in clarified butter or drippings, place in a braising pan, 
 add such flavorings as may be desired, and half as much 
 hot water or broth as would be used for stewing, cover 
 closely, put in a moderate oven, and let cook slowly 
 for four or five hours. 
 
 TO STEW VEGETABLES. 
 
 Much less water is required for stewing than for boil- 
 ing articles of food. With this exception, the general 
 rule in regard to boiling vegetables is the same as in 
 regard to stewing them, viz. : Put to cook in slightly 
 salted boiling water and keep simmering gently until 
 done. The length of time necessary for boiling or stew- 
 ing vegetables depends so much upon the age and con- 
 dition of the vegetables, and varies so greatly, that it is 
 impossible to give it with any degree of accuracy. All 
 veo-etables, however, cook tender in a much shorter 
 length of time when young and fresh than they do when 
 old and stale. 
 
 To Stew Beets. — Wash, parboil an hour, rub off the 
 skin, cut in sHces, put in a stew-pan, cover with broth or 
 water, add a lump of butter rolled in flour, simmer till 
 tender, and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 To Stew Greeu Shelled Beans,— Put the beans in 
 
Stewing. 91 
 
 just sufficient water to cover them, stew gently half an 
 hour, or till tender, add a little sweet cream, and season 
 with salt and pepper ; or omit the cream, add a little 
 butter, and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 To Stew Dried Beans. — Wash and soak well. Put 
 to cook in a liberal supply of cold water, to which a 
 pinch of soda has been added. Pour off this water as 
 soon as it boils, and add enough cold water to barely 
 cover the beans. Salt lightly, cook gently four hours, 
 or until very tender, then season with salt, pepper, and 
 butter ; or serve with white or brown sauce. 
 
 To Stew Carrots. — Wash, pare, parboil an hour, 
 drain, slice, put in a stew-pan with a little broth or 
 water, and simmer till tender. Season with salt, pepper, 
 and minced parsley. 
 
 To Stew Corn. — Cut the corn from the cob, scrape 
 off the pulp and eyes. Put in a sauce-pan with a half 
 pint of water to each pint of corn. Cover closely, stir 
 occasionally to keep the corn from sticking to the sauce- 
 pan and burning, and stew ten minutes, or till cooked. 
 Season to taste with salt, pepper, and a little cream or 
 butter, and serve. 
 
 To Stew Cucumbers. — Pare, split in pieces length- 
 wise, scrape out the seeds, cover with water, simmer 
 until tender, thicken with flour and butter, and season 
 with salt and pepper. 
 
 To Stew Mushrooms. — Put the mushrooms in a stew- 
 pan with a lump of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and 
 a tablespoonful of lemon juice to each pint of mush- 
 rooms. Cover closely, stew two minutes, or until ten- 
 der, then thicken with a teaspoonful of flour, and serve. 
 
92 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 The liquor of canned mushrooms should always be used 
 in mushroom sauce or stewed mushrooms. 
 
 To Stew Okra. — Wash and slice the pods, simmer 
 in a little water or broth till tender, then season with 
 salt, pepper, and butter, and serve. 
 
 To Stew Onions. — Peel, boil half an hour, drain, 
 cover with milk, stew until tender, drain, mash or chop, 
 add a little cream, stir over the fire until thoroughly- 
 heated, then season with salt and pepper ; or when 
 cooked tender dress with salt, pepper, and butter, and 
 serve whole. 
 
 Asparagus Peas. — Wash asparagus, cut it in small 
 pieces, simmer fifteen minutes, or till tender, in just 
 enough water to cover it, thicken slightly with flour and 
 butter stirred together, add a little sweet cream, and 
 season with salt and pepper. 
 
 To Stew Cabbage. — Slice or chop cabbage fine, stew 
 in a small quantity of water till tender, season with salt, 
 pepper, and butter, add a little sweet cream or vinegar, 
 and serve. Stewed cabbage is usually called hot slaw, if 
 it contains vinegar. 
 
 To Stew Celery. — Cut the stalks of celery into pieces 
 an inch or two inches in length, simmer fifteen minutes, 
 or until tender, in a little water, add sweet cream, season 
 to taste with salt and pepper, and serve ; or season, 
 pour over slices of toasted bread, and serve. 
 
 To Stew Salsify. — Pare, cut in pieces half an inch 
 in length, stew half an hour, or till tender, drain, and 
 serve with drawn butter or white sauce ; or mash fine, 
 when drained, season with salt and pepper, add a little 
 cream, and serve. Salsify should be laid in cold water 
 
Stewing. 95 
 
 as soon as pared, to keep it from becoming discolored. 
 
 To Stew Tomatoes. — Peel and slice the tomatoes, 
 stew until thoroughly cooked, then season with salt, pep- 
 per, and butter. Or cream may be used in place of but- 
 ter, and, if liked, a delicate flavoring of mace or nutmeg 
 may be added. Simple broth or stock of any kind may 
 be used for stewing tomatoes, and a small quantity of 
 onion or a few cloves may be added. The stew may be 
 thickened, if desired, by the addition of bread crumbs, 
 flour, cornstarch, or boiled rice. 
 
 To Stew Parsnips. — Wash, pare, cut in pieces, stew 
 an hour, or till tender, drain, press out the water, mash 
 fine, season with salt and pepper, add a little cream or 
 milk, and stir over the fire about five minutes. 
 
 To Stew Peas. — Shell, put in a small quantity of 
 water, cover closely, and stew half an hour, or until 
 tender. Add sweet cream, a lump of butter rolled in 
 flour, and season with salt and pepper. 
 
 To Stew Potatoes. — Cut pared potatoes in slices 
 about an eighth of an inch in thickness, stew gently till 
 tender, drain, add a little cream or milk, season with 
 salt and pepper, add a little minced parsley if desired, 
 simmer a few minutes, and serve ; or when drained serve 
 with white or other sauce. 
 
 To Stew Winter Squash. — Split the squash in halves, 
 remove the seeds and stringy portions, cut in pieces 
 suitable for serving, pare, put in a kettle or stew-pan 
 with a small quantity of boiling water, cover closely, and 
 simmer gently until cooked. Serve with melted butter 
 or with white or brown sauce. Or remove the lid from 
 the stew-pan as soon as the squash is tender, let it dry 
 
94 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 off, then mash fine and season with salt, pepper, and 
 butter. 
 
 To Stew Summer Squash — Cut the squashes in 
 pieces, put them to cook in a Httle water, and when 
 tender, drain, mash fine, and season with salt, pepper, 
 butter, and sweet cream. 
 
 TO COOK FRESH FRUITS. 
 
 Fresh fi'uits and berries of all kinds are usually cooked 
 by stewing, and should always be cooked in earthen, 
 granite, aluminum, or porcelain-lined vessels, and stirred 
 only with a wooden spoon. The use of tin or iron 
 utensils for either cooking or stirring acid fruit affects 
 both the color and flavor deleteriously. A little salt 
 develops and emphasizes the flavor of cooked fruits or 
 berries, and a slight pinch should be added to them 
 while cooking, or when hot. Care should be taken, 
 however, not to use too much. Sugar cooked for a few 
 minutes with acid fruit is converted into glucose and 
 loses its sweetening qualities to such an extent that two 
 pounds of sugar added to acid fruit while cooking will 
 sweeten it but little more than one pound will, if added 
 to the fruit after it is cooked. Consequently it is not 
 advisable in sweetening stewed fruit to add the sugar to 
 the fruit and cook it with it any length of time. 
 
 Jellies, jams, and marmalades are generally much finer 
 in quality when made by gently simmering the fruit 
 juices, or the crushed fruit used in their preparation, 
 until sufficiently cooked, before adding the sugar, so 
 that after it is added the cooking need be continued only 
 long enough to dissolve it thoroughly and perfectly 
 
Stewing. 95 
 
 combine it with the juice or fruit. So also are nearly- 
 all manner of fruit preserves. The strawberry is a 
 notable exception, as both color and flavor seem to be 
 better retained when the sugar is cooked with the fruit. 
 
 Apples should be stewed as rapidly as possible in order 
 to preserve the flavor of the fruit. At the beginning of 
 the process, a little water — as little as will serve the pur- 
 pose — should be added to the prepared fruit in the 
 kettle, which should be kept closely covered while it is 
 cooking. The quantity of water depends in a great 
 measure upon the dryness or juiciness of the apples. 
 If they are juicy a tablespoonful to each pint will be 
 sufficient ; whereas, if they are dry, a teacupful may not 
 be too much. The flavor of the apple is usually delicate 
 and easily destroyed, therefore only the quantity of water 
 requisite for thorough cooking should be used. For the 
 same reason all unnecessary stirring, during or after 
 cooking, should be avoided. 
 
 Apples, and stewed fruits generally, are finer flavored, 
 and agree with most people better, if eaten while warm 
 than when cold. 
 
 To Stew Apples. — Pare, quarter, core, and wash the 
 apples. Place the prepared quarters in a sauce-pan with, 
 a small quantity of hot water, cover closely, and stew 
 rapidly for five minutes. Upon removing the cover, the 
 apples, if done, will be broken and so tender as to fall 
 apart readily. If not done, replace the cover and cook 
 a few minutes longer. Put in a bowl or dish half the 
 quantity of sugar required, pour the cooked apples into 
 the dish, sprinkle the other half of the sugar over them, 
 cover closely, and serve hot or warm. 
 
96 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To Stew Cranberries, No. i. — To a quart of cranberries 
 picked and washed add three fourths of a pint of boil- 
 ing water, cover closely, and cook five minutes over a 
 quick fire. Mash with a wooden spoon such of the 
 berries as have not burst, and rub through a colander or 
 pumpkin strainer into an earthen dish or bowl. Put 
 the pulp into the sauce-pan in which the berries were 
 cooked, add three fourths of a pint of granulated sugar, 
 simmer five minutes, and serve hot or cold. When cold 
 the sauce will be jellied. 
 
 To Stew Cranberries, No. 2. — Stew and mash the 
 cranberries as described above, then add the sugar, 
 cook five minutes, and serve. 
 
 To Make Cranberry Jelly. — Cook and mash the 
 cranberries as above described, then pour into a jelly 
 bag and let the juice drip through. To each cupful of 
 juice add a cupful of granulated sugar, put into a sauce- 
 pan, simmer five minutes, and pour into molds or 
 cups. 
 
 To Stew Pie-Plant. — Wash, but do not skin, the pie- 
 plant, cut it in pieces an inch in length, cover with cold 
 water, and heat to boiling point. Then drain off all the 
 water, add a cup and a half of sugar to each quart of 
 pie-plant, simmer five minutes, and serve warm. 
 
 To Stew Green Gooseberries. — Pick over, stem, and 
 wash the gooseberries. Cook and serve like pie-plant. 
 Gooseberries and pie-plant require about an equal 
 amount of sugar to sweeten them. 
 
 To Stew Pears. — Wash the pears and remove blem- 
 ishes, or pare, if preferred. Leave the pears whole. To 
 each quart add a cup of New Orleans molasses, a cup of 
 
Stewing. 97 
 
 hot water, and six cloves. Cover closely and cook 
 gently until very tender. 
 
 To Stew Peaches. — Prepare peaches the same as 
 pears. To each quart of peaches add a cup of hot 
 water and three quarters of a cup of sugar. Cover 
 closely and stew gently until cooked. 
 
 To Stew Plums. — Pick over and wash the plums, and 
 to each quart of fruit add a cup of hot water. Cover 
 closely and stew until cooked, then add sugar to taste, 
 and let simmer five minutes, or until the sugar is per- 
 fectly dissolved and mixed with the fruit. Serve hot or 
 cold. 
 
 Very acid plums require a pint of sugar to each quart 
 of plums, while sweet ones do not require more than a 
 quarter that amount. If the sugar is added when the 
 plums are put to cook it will toughen their skins and in- 
 jure their flavor. 
 
 To Make Cider Apple Sauce. — Boil sweet cider until 
 it is reduced one half, then add sweet apples that have 
 been pared, quartered, and cored, and cook slowly until 
 the apples are dark and transparent. The apples should 
 be covered by the cider while cooking. If canned 
 while hot, cider apple sauce will keep almost indefinitely, 
 but if put in jars in a cool place it will keep several 
 weeks without being canned. 
 
 TO COOK DRIED FRUITS. 
 
 Apples, plums, peaches, and all kinds of dried fruits 
 are usually cooked without being properly soaked, and 
 are often sent to table with a wrinkled and uncomely 
 appearance, and frequently with an accumulation of dust 
 
98 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 and grit about them that in no way adds to their attrac- 
 tiveness or flavors. 
 
 Dried fruit of every kind, after being thoroughly 
 cleansed by washing in warm water, should be soaked 
 in cold water until it loses its dried and wrinkled appear- 
 ance, should be put to cook in the same water, and be 
 simmered or stewed slowly and continuously for several 
 hours, or until it becomes soft, when it should be sweet- 
 ened and removed from the fire. 
 
 Many dried fruits have their respective flavors modi- 
 fied and improved when two or more varieties are 
 stewed together, or cooked in conjunction with each 
 other. Especially is this the case with such as are very 
 sweet or very acid. 
 
 To Stew Dried Prunes. — Wash the prunes and soak 
 them over night, or for six or eight hours, in cold water, 
 then put to cook in the water in which they were soaked, 
 and let them simmer gently for two hours. Sweeten to 
 taste and simmer five minutes. Serve hot or cold. 
 
 Most prunes are improved by having an equal quan- 
 tity of dried apricots stewed with them. In such case 
 cook the prunes an hour, then add the soaked apricots 
 and cook the two together another hour. 
 
 The quantity of water necessary in stewing prunes, or 
 other dried fruits, is just suflicient to cover the fruit 
 thoroughly in the sauce-pan. 
 
 To Stew Dried Apricots. — Wash the apricots, let 
 them soak several hours in cold water, put them to cook 
 in the water in which they soaked, let simmer gently an 
 hour, then sweeten to taste, simmer five minutes more, 
 and serve. 
 
Stewing. 99 
 
 To Stew Dried Plums. — Soak and stew the same as 
 prunes. If the plums are very sour they will be im- 
 proved by mixing with them an equal quantity of prunes 
 or seedless raisins. 
 
 To Stew Prunellas. — Wash, soak, and stew like ap- 
 ricots. Both apricots and prunellas make delicious 
 sauce when cooked in combination with equal quantities 
 of either prunes or seedless raisins. 
 
 To Stew Dried Apples or Peaches. — Both dried ap- 
 ples and dried peaches should be washed, soaked, and 
 stewed like other dried fruits. Cook until tender, then 
 sweeten and serve. Sauce made of dried fruits, like 
 that made of fresh fruits, is generally finer flavored and 
 more digestible when eaten warm than when eaten cold. 
 
 To Stew Seedless or Sultana Raisins. — Pick over, 
 wash, and soak several hours in cold water, then put to 
 cook in the water in which they soaked. Add an equal 
 quantity of prunellas or apricots that have been washed 
 and soaked. Simmer for an hour, or until cooked, 
 sweeten to taste, and serve. 
 LofC. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 SOUP-MAKING. 
 
 In preparing soup stock any ordinary pot or kettle 
 can be used, but every kitchen should be provided with 
 a stock pot or digester, by the use of which two or three 
 times a week many scraps may be saved and a supply of 
 stock always kept on hand, from which a variety of soups 
 and sauces can be prepared at any time with very little 
 trouble. For there are enough scraps of cooked and un- 
 cooked meats, trimmings of roasts, steaks, chops, and cut- 
 lets, and odds and ends of vegetables in nearly every house 
 to keep the family supplied with nutritious, palatable 
 soup with very little labor, and scarcely any additional 
 expense. Soup stock is the juice or liquid extract of 
 meat, poultry, game, fish, shell fish, or vegetables, and 
 is used as the foundation of nearly all soups. To make 
 soup stock, put into a kettle or digester, in cold water 
 slightly salted, meat of any kind cut in small pieces, or 
 meat and bones well cut and broken, heat the water 
 gradually until it reaches the boiling point, then keep it 
 simmering continuously until the juices of the meat are 
 all extracted. The albumen of all meats is curdled and 
 hardened by being put into boiling water, but is dis- 
 solved and extracted by cold water ; and when meat is 
 put into a vessel of cold water and put over the fire and 
 soaked until the water reaches the boiling temperature, 
 
Soup-Making. loi 
 
 and is afterward permitted to simmer gently, all its juices 
 are extracted and mingled with the water so perfectly 
 that the flavor of the stock is much finer than when 
 boiled rapidly. Continuous simmering is very essential 
 in soup-making. To let the stock boil rapidly is ob- 
 jectionable, and to let it stop simmering before the 
 process is finished is also objectionable. 
 
 The flavor of soup depends greatly upon the freshness 
 of the meat of which it is made, and the evenness of 
 the temperature at which it is cooked. Tough and 
 coarse pieces of meat make good soups and sauces, and 
 can be converted into stock advantageously, as can also 
 a great many refuse bits and scraps. But it is quite 
 important that all meats of which stock is to made should 
 be cooked before they get stale ; and the fresher the 
 meat is, the finer will be the quality of the stock or juice 
 extracted from it, and the better the soup made there- 
 from. It is quite customary to carefully remove all the 
 scum that rises to the surface when preparing soup stock, 
 but there is no necessity whatever for doing so, as this 
 scum is merely albumen or meat-juice coagulated by the 
 increasing temperature of the water. If permitted to re- 
 main after the water reaches the boiling point it will 
 shortly become incorporated with the stock and increase 
 its nutritive value. Its removal is not, therefore, rec- 
 ommended. 
 
 When meat and bones are well cut and broken up, all 
 their valuable properties can, by proper cooking, be ex- 
 tracted in four or five hours. After simmering that 
 length of time the kettle should be taken from the fire, 
 the stock strained through a colander into an earthen 
 
I02 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 bowl, and, unless wanted for immediate use, should be 
 set where it will cool as rapidly as possible, as the more 
 rapidly it cools the finer will be its flavor, and the 
 greater the length of time it can be kept. If stock is 
 made of meat alone it will remain in liquid form when 
 cold ; but if made of meat and bones in about equal 
 proportions, it will be quite stiff and gelatinous on 
 account of the gelatine extracted from the bones in cook- 
 ing. 
 
 Some soups are made without a special stock having 
 been previously prepared, but stock of some kind is the 
 base of a large majority of soups, and is the fluid foun- 
 dation with which other materials are mixed and incor- 
 porated to form the various soups that in cook-books 
 and bills of fare are designated potages, purees, and 
 consommes. 
 
 Soup stock may be classified as : 
 
 1. Simple Stock. 
 
 2. Compound Stock. 
 
 3. Mixed Stock No. i. 
 
 4. Mixed Stock No. 2. 
 
 Simple stock is the extract from a single kind of flesh, 
 fish, fowl, or vegetable. Compound stock is the extract 
 of two or more kinds of flesh, fish, fowl, or vegetables. 
 Mixed Stock No. i is stock made from scraps and 
 odds and ends of uncooked meats, vegetables, etc. And 
 Mixed Stock No. 2 is stock made from scraps and odds 
 and ends of cooked meats, vegetables, etc. 
 
 Simple Stock of Vegetables. — Cut the prepared 
 vegetable of which the stock is to be made into small 
 pieces, put in slightly salted water, and simmer gently 
 
Soup- Making. 103 
 
 until the vegetable is tender, and the stock sufficiently 
 flavored. 
 
 Asparagus Stock. — Cut the tender ends or points 
 from a bunch of asparagus and reserve for stewing. Put 
 the remainder into two quarts of slightly salted water, 
 and simmer gently until the water is sufficiently flavored 
 with asparagus, then strain and use for soup stock. 
 
 Celery Stock. — Put the roots and coarse outside pieces 
 of half a dozen stalks of celery into three pints of slightly 
 salted water, simmer an hour, strain, and use for stock. 
 
 Salsify Stock. — To one pint of sliced salsify add a 
 quart of water and half a teaspoonful of salt, simmer 
 slowly until the salsify is tender, strain, and use for 
 stock. The salsify may be dressed with white sauce and 
 served as a vegetable. 
 
 Soup stock may, in a similar manner, be made from 
 green peas, corn, etc., but, as a rule, it is advisable to 
 rub peas, corn, and some other vegetables through a 
 sieve and mingle them with the stock. 
 
 Beef Stock. — Select a shin or shank of beef contain- 
 ing as much lean meat as bone. Have the bone sawed 
 in sections not more than two inches in length. Remove 
 the skin from the meat and put the meat and bones to 
 cook in sufficient cold water to cover them an inch in 
 depth. Add a teaspoonful of salt to each gallon of 
 water. Bring slowly to boiling point and let simmer 
 four or five hours, or until the meat falls from the bones, 
 then strain through a colander into an earthen bowl and 
 set in a cold, well-ventilated place till cool. 
 
 Prepare stock from mutton, veal, or any meat desired, 
 in a similar manner. 
 
I04 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Chicken Stock. — Select a large, fat hen two or three 
 years old and prepare as directed on page 2 1 . Separate 
 the joints and cut the back into several pieces, but re- 
 serve the breast whole and covered, as much as possible, 
 with unbroken skin. Put all except the breast into a 
 soup kettle, cover with cold water, add half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, some trimmings of celery, a sprig of parsley, 
 or a small onion and small blade of mace, and set to 
 cook ; or, if preferred, omit all flavoring materials from 
 the stock. As soon as the water boils place the breast, 
 skin side up, on the top of the other pieces, cover 
 closely, and let simmer four hours, or until the skin of 
 the breast becomes gelatinous. When perfectly cooked 
 remove the breast to a tureen or bowl, strain the broth 
 over it, and set aside to cool. The breast prepared in 
 this way is in perfect condition for being made into salad, 
 croquettes, or creamed chicken. The best portions of 
 the meat from the back and joints can also be used for 
 croquettes or hash. If the stock or broth is wanted for 
 immediate use skim off the grease, after the cooked 
 chicken has been removed, season, and serve. 
 
 Stock can be prepared in a similar manner from any 
 kind of poultry or game. 
 
 Compound Stock. — Put together in the soup kettle a 
 beef bone, a knuckle of veal, the back, legs, and wings 
 of a fowl, an onion, a carrot, the roots and trimmings 
 of six stalks of celery, and six cloves. Cover with cold 
 water, add a teaspoonful of salt, let simmer four or five 
 hours, strain, and set aside to cool. 
 
 Mixed Stock No. i. — Take the trimmings of beef, 
 veal^ mutton, lamb, or meat of any kind, the shank bone 
 
Soup- Making. 105 
 
 of a ham, the roots and trimmings of celery, the odds 
 and ends of corn, beans, or peas, and an onion, a turnip, 
 and a carrot. Skin, wash, or otherwise prepare them. 
 Put them ahogether into a stock pot — putting the bones 
 in first — add salt, six or eight cloves, and a small pep- 
 per pod, if at hand, and cover with cold water. Set to 
 cook, let simmer five hours, strain into a bowl, and let 
 cool. When cool remove the grease and the stock will 
 be ready for use. 
 
 Mixed Stock No. 2. — Take the skeleton of a turkey, 
 chicken, or other fowl or bird, with any odds and ends 
 of chops or steaks, or bones of roast beef or other meat, 
 and put together in the stock pot with any stewed 
 onion, tomatoes, corn, carrots, celery, or other well- 
 flavored cooked vegetables that may be on hand. Cover 
 with cold water, add a little salt, six cloves, a bay leaf, 
 or other sweet herbs, simmer four or five hours, then 
 strain and let cool. When cool remove the grease and 
 the stock is ready for use. 
 
 After the stock has been properly prepared there is 
 comparatively little trouble attending the making of any 
 kind of soup desired ; and it may be proceeded with at 
 once, or may be postponed till another day. 
 
 The variety of soups that can be made by varying the 
 combinations of materials used in their preparation is 
 almost illimitable, yet all soups can be legitimately classi- 
 fied under four heads, viz. : 
 
 1. Plain Soup. 
 
 2. Clear Soup. 
 
 3. Vegetable Soup. 
 
 4. Mixed Soup. 
 
io6 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To one or the other of these classes everything in the 
 nature of soup belongs, and the method of making the 
 hundreds of different soups that are in use is so similar 
 in the main that only a limited number of recipes is 
 necessary to enable one to select from such material as 
 is at hand the articles most appropriate for use in any 
 special soup belonging to either of the four classes of 
 soups. 
 
 Two of the most important things to remember in 
 soup-making are these : 
 
 To render a soup most attractive and palatable its dis- 
 tinctive flavor and individuality must be preserved. And 
 each kind of soup should be distinct in character from 
 every other kind of soup. 
 
 The common stock, or consomm6, recommended by 
 most cook-books, and generally used, for the base of 
 soups and sauces is, in most instances, prepared by ming- 
 ling together beef, veal, chicken, carrots, onions, turnips, 
 celery, parsley, cloves, bay leaf, and other vegetables and 
 herbs ; and as the human palate not only craves dis- 
 tinctive flavors, but soon tires of the same flavor or the 
 same combination of flavors, the folly of preparing such 
 stock can be seen at a glance, and the importance of 
 observing the rule in regard to preserving the individu- 
 ality of soups may be realized in a measure. 
 
 CLASS I. — PLAIN SOUP. 
 
 Celery Broth. — To four cups of celery stock add one 
 cup of white celery, cut in small pieces, and cooked until 
 tender in one cup of slightly salted boiling water. Cover 
 closely, simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
Soup- Making, loy 
 
 Asparagus Broth. — To four cups of asparagus stock 
 add the points of one bunch of asparagus cooked fifteen 
 minutes, or until tender, in one cup of boiling water 
 slightly salted. Cover closely, simmer five minutes, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Salsify Broth. — To four cups of salsify stock add one 
 cup of salsify sliced thin and cooked fifteen minutes, or 
 until tender, in one cup of slightly salted boiling water. 
 Cover closely, simmer five minutes, season to taste, and 
 serve. In making vegetable broths the water in which 
 the vegetable is cooked should be added to the stock 
 ivith the vegetable. 
 
 Oyster Broth. — To one quart of oysters freed from 
 bits of shell and rinsed in cold water, add two cups of 
 boiling water, and cook until the thin edges of the oys- 
 ters wrinkle and separate. Season to taste, and serve 
 with crackers or toasted bread. 
 
 For making this broth one cup of water and one cup 
 of milk may be substituted for the water ; or all milk or 
 all cream may be used. And, if desired, a tablespoon- 
 ful of butter may be added to either broth. 
 
 Clam Broth No. i. — To one dozen clams, finely 
 chopped, add two cups of cold water, simmer fifteen 
 minutes, strain out the clams, season the broth to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 Clam Broth No. 2 To one cup of canned clam 
 
 juice add two cups of boiling water, simmer five min- 
 utes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Chicken Broth No. i. — Simmer the required quan- 
 tity of chicken stock five minutes, season to taste, and 
 serve. 
 
io8 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Chicken Broth No. 2. — To four cups of chicken 
 stock add one cup of vermicelli. Simmer five minutes, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Chicken Broth No. 3. — To four cups of chicken broth 
 add one cup of boiled rice and one tablespoonful of 
 minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 Beef Broth No. i. — Season to taste the quantity of 
 beef stock required, simmer five minutes, and serve. 
 
 Beef Broth No. 2. — To four cups of beef stock add 
 one cup of well-cooked barley, simmer five minutes, 
 season to taste, and serve. Rice or crackers or toasted 
 bread may be served with beef broth, if preferred to 
 barley. 
 
 Beef Tea No. i. — Beef tea is made in a somewhat 
 different manner from soup stock, but can be very properly 
 called plain soup. For making beef tea a cut from the 
 round is preferable on account of its juiciness, and care 
 should be taken to have it as fresh as possible ; and in pre- 
 paring it the skin and fat should be all removed and the 
 meat be cut in small pieces. It should then be put in a 
 kettle or sauce-pan, barely covered with cold water, 
 slightly salted, heated to the boiling point, and strained. 
 It is then ready for use. 
 
 Beef tea made according to this formula is very palat- 
 able, and is relished by invalids when that extracted at a 
 lower temperature is rejected. If allowed to settle the 
 clear portion is simply a stimulant, but when served with 
 the brown particles in it it is very nutritious. 
 
 Beef Tea No. 2. — Prepare the meat as directed in 
 last formula. Put it in a glass can or bottle and close 
 
Soup- Making. 109 
 
 tightly. Place the can or bottle on an open rest in a 
 sauce-pan or kettle of water, cover the sauce-pan, and 
 heat the water gradually until near boiling point. When 
 the juice is extracted from the meat it is ready to season 
 and serve. 
 
 Beef Extract. — Broil a thick sirloin steak as directed 
 on page 36. Put it on a hot plate, dust lightly with salt, 
 and, after it has stood a few minutes, pierce freely with 
 a knife, and press out the juice with the back of a hot 
 spoon. Serve in liquid form, or moisten thin slices of 
 toasted bread, baked potato, boiled rice, or vermicelli 
 with it. 
 
 Mutton Broth No. i. — Heat mutton stock, season 
 to taste, and serve. 
 
 Mutton Broth No. 2. — To four cups of mutton stock 
 add one cup of boiled rice and one tablespoonful of 
 minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
 and serve. Toasted bread or cooked barley may be 
 served in the broth, if preferred. 
 
 Veal Broth. — To four cups of veal broth add one cup 
 of cooked rice, vermicelli, or noodles with one table- 
 spoonful of minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 CLASS 2. — CLEAR SOUP. 
 
 Clear soup is made from stock clarified and enriched 
 in color and flavor. The clarifying process removes 
 much of the flavor and nutrition from the stock, hence 
 it is necessary to enrich it by the addition of meat 
 juices and flavoring extracts. Clear soup should be 
 served in cups, bowls, or soup-plates, as a clear liquid. 
 
no The Art of Cookery. 
 
 with transparent thickening, poached eggs, dainty 
 dumphngs, or ornamental vegetables. But nothing 
 should be served in it that will injure its clearness. 
 
 Clear Soup. — To four cups of simple or compound 
 stock add one cup of lean raw beef cut in dice or small 
 pieces, one ^^^ beaten with one cup of cold water, 
 and one tablespoonful of meat caramel. Mix all well 
 together in a sauce-pan, bring slowly to boiling point, 
 and simmer half an hour. Strain through several folds 
 of cheese-cloth, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Clear Soup with Curry. — To four cups of clarified 
 stock add a teaspoonful of curry powder, simmer five 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Great care should be taken in the use of curry pow- 
 der, as it is a combination of various herbs and spices, 
 among which pepper is quite prominent. 
 
 Clear Soup with Tapioca. — To four cups of clear 
 soup add one cup of pearled tapioca cooked in salted 
 water until transparent, simmer five minutes, and serve. 
 
 Clear Soup with Poached Eggs. — Heat the clarified 
 soup to boiling point. Put a neatly-trimmed poached 
 ^^^ in each soup-plate, and serve a ladleful of soup 
 upon it. 
 
 Clear Soup with Dainty Dumplings. — Bring the 
 clarified soup to boiling point and drop the dumplings 
 into it, one at a time, in quick succession. As soon as 
 they rise to the surface they are cooked and the soup 
 should be served at once. 
 
 Clear Soup with Sliced Lemon. — Slice a lemon cross- 
 wise, in very thin slices, and serve one slice in each plate 
 of soup. 
 
Soup- Making. 1 1 1 
 
 Clear Soup with Mixed Flavoring. — Mix together a 
 tablespoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
 half a teaspoonful of lemon peel, a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of grated nutmeg, and ten drops extract of 
 ginger. Add to a quart of soup stock before clarify- 
 ing it. 
 
 This flavoring is recommended to those who think 
 wine indispensable in clear soup. 
 
 Clear Soup with Fancy Vegetables. — To four cups 
 of clear soup add one cup of fresh vegetables, cooked 
 in salted water — composed of about equal portions of 
 carrot, onion, celery, turnip, and string beans, cut in 
 dice, diamonds, or long thin strips — half a cup of 
 cooked green peas, and a tablespoonful of minced pars- 
 ley. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Macedoine vegetables are mixed vegetables prepared 
 and canned expressly for use in soups. They are con- 
 venient and excellent. 
 
 CLASS 3. — VEGETABLE SOUPS. 
 
 Vegetable soups are made by adding vegetables to 
 either a plain broth, a clear soup, or a vegetable stock. 
 But when only a single vegetable is used in the prepara- 
 tion of a soup the soup is generally given the name of 
 that vegetable, as corn soup, pea soup, bean soup, etc., 
 and when a variety of vegetables is cooked with, or 
 added to, a stock of any kind the soup is known simply 
 as vegetable soup. v 
 
 It is well to recognize this distinction, and to remem- 
 ber that some vegetables affiliate or harmonize more per- 
 fectly than others with certain meat flavors, so as to be 
 
112 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 able to select only such as are appropriate in each case. 
 As a general rule vegetables delicate in flavor — such as 
 corn, celery, peas, salsify, cauliflower, and okra — should 
 be served in veal or chicken broth in preference to the 
 broth of beef or mutton, while those more pronounced 
 in flavor — such as carrots, onions, turnips, tomatoes, 
 beans, and cabbage — should be served with broths of the 
 latter in preference to broths of the former meats. 
 
 When vegetables of high flavor are used in beef or 
 mutton broth, it is always admissible to use also those of 
 delicate flavor, if desired ; but delicately flavored vege- 
 tables should not be served in a high-flavored broth, or 
 mingled with stronger flavored vegetables in the prep- 
 aration of a soup wherein the delicate flavored vegetables 
 are to predominate. Bean soup, pea soup, tomato soup, 
 and various other vegetable soups where a single vege- 
 table is used in such abundance as to give its name legiti- 
 mately to the soup, may still have used in the prepara- 
 tion of any of them vegetables, herbs, or spices calculated 
 to stimulate or develop the flavor of the main vegetable, 
 or to modify or counteract some undesirable flavor it 
 may possess. In this way onion, cloves, and meat juices 
 render tomato more palatable when served as a soup, a 
 puree, or a sauce. For a similar reason a cup of sweet 
 corn is a great improvement to a pur^e of beans, supply- 
 ing it with sweetness and flavor and thereby enriching 
 the flavor of the beans. And, in like manner, a sprig of 
 mint cooked with dried peas, or with green peas that are 
 so mature as to have lost most of their original taste, 
 will obscure their rankness and frequently give them 
 quite a fresh and spicy flavor ; and a slice of breakfast 
 
Soup - Making. 113 
 
 bacon added judiciously to a soup or puree of peas or 
 beans will impart a very desirable piquancy, and greatly 
 improve the rank or heavy natural flavor of the vege- 
 table. 
 
 Corn Soup. — To four cups of veal or chicken broth 
 add one cup of tender sweet corn. Simmer fifteen min- 
 utes, or until cooked, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Pea Soup. — Cook one cup of green peas half an hour, 
 or until tender, in water enough to just cover them, then 
 add four cups of veal or chicken broth, heat to boiling 
 point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Tomato Soup No. i. — To four cups of beef stock add 
 one cup of fresh tomatoes, peeled and cut in small pieces, 
 one tablespoonful of minced onion, and two cloves. 
 Simmer fifteen minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Okra Soup No. i. — To four cups of chicken, veal, or 
 beef broth add one cup of okra, cut in small pieces. 
 Simmer until cooked, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Salsify Soup. — To four cups of any simple broth add 
 one cup of thinly sliced salsify. Simmer fifteen minutes, 
 or until cooked, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Rice Soup. — To four cups of chicken, veal, or mutton 
 broth add one cup of boiled rice, heat to boiling point, 
 season, and serve. 
 
 Hominy Soup. — To four cups of beef broth add one 
 cup of well-boiled hominy. Heat to boiling point, 
 season, and serve. 
 
 Barley Soup. — To four cups of beef, mutton, or 
 mixed soup stock add one cup of well-cooked barley. 
 Simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Macaroni Soup. — To four cups of chicken, veal, or 
 
114 "^^^ ^'^i ^f Cookery. 
 
 beef broth add one cup of cooked macaroni. Simmer 
 five minutes, season, and serve. 
 
 Noodle Soup. — To four cups of chicken or veal broth 
 add one cup of noodles that have been boiled for twenty- 
 minutes in salted water. Simmer five minutes, season, 
 and serve. Italian paste cut in fancy forms can be used, 
 if preferred. 
 
 Vegetable Soup No. i. — To four cups of chicken or 
 veal stock add one cup of thinly sliced salsify, half a cup 
 of corn, either canned or cut from the cob, and a tea- 
 spoonful of minced parsley. Simmer until the vegetables 
 are cooked, then add a cup of sweet cream, season to 
 taste, and serve. 
 
 Vegetable Soup No. 2. — Cook half a cup each of 
 carrots, turnips, and onions chopped fine. Add four 
 cups of beef stock, half a cup of tomato, and one table- 
 spoonful of minced parsley. Simmer fifteen minutes, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Vegetable Soup No. 3. — Cook half a cup each of 
 carrots, turnips, celery, and onions. Add four cups of 
 mutton broth or compound stock, half a cup of toma- 
 toes, and one cup of cooked barley. Simmer fifteen 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Vegetable Soup No. 4. — To four cups of chicken, 
 veal, or beef stock add half a cup each of cooked peas, 
 beans, corn, tomatoes, and celery. Simmer fifteen 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Okra Soup No. 2. — To four cups of chicken or veal 
 broth add one cup of sliced or canned okra and half a 
 cup each of lima beans and sweet corn cooked. Sim- 
 mer fifteen minutes, season, and serve. 
 
Soup- Making. 115 
 
 Okra Soup No. 3. — To four cups of mixed stock add 
 one cup of okra cut in pieces, and half a cup each of 
 cooked string beans, corn, peas, and tomatoes. Sim- 
 mer fifteen minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Ox-tail Soup. — Cut an ox- tail in small pieces, also a 
 medium-sized onion. Brown in clarified butter. Put in 
 a sauce-pan, add two cups of water, six cups of either 
 simple or compound stock, and a medium-sized carrot, 
 cut in small pieces. Simmer two hours, or until the ox- 
 tail is cooked. Remove the grease, add a cupful of 
 cooked barley, and half a cupful of cooked tomato. 
 Simmer fifteen minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 CLASS 4. MIXED SOUPS. 
 
 White soups are perhaps the most delicate variety of 
 mixed soups. In their preparation a portion of cream 
 or milk is used, and they are known as ' ' Cream of Cel- 
 ery, " " Cream of Asparagus, ' ' etc. Soups made thick 
 with vegetables rubbed through a sieve, in the prepara- 
 tion of which neither cream nor milk is used, are fre- 
 quently put down on bills of fare as ' ' creams, ' ' but they 
 have no legitimate place among that class of soups — all 
 such mixtures are purees. 
 
 Mixed soups, like vegetable soups, may be made in 
 almost endless variety, but comparatively few formulas 
 are needed to enable one to understand the principles 
 that govern their preparation. 
 
 Cream of Celery No. i. — Cook together in a sauce- 
 pan until well mixed one tablespoonful of butter and two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, add four cups of celery stock, 
 and simmer five minutes. Pour in a cup of sweet 
 
ii6 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 cream, heat to boiling point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Cream of Celery No. 2. — Cook together in a sauce- 
 pan one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls 
 of flour. Add two cups of celery stock and two cups 
 of chicken stock, and simmer five minutes. Add a cup 
 of sweet cream, heat to boiling point, season to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 Cream of Asparagus. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add 
 four cups of asparagus stock, and simmer five minutes. 
 Pour in a cup of sweet cream, heat to boiling point, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Cream of Salsify. — Cook together in a sauce-pan 
 one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of 
 flour. Add four cups of salsify stock and simmer five 
 minutes. Pour in a cup of sweet cream, season to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 Cream of asparagus and cream of salsify are richer 
 in flavor and nutrition when chicken or veal broth is 
 mixed with the vegetable stock, in equal proportions ; 
 and they can be so prepared when desired. 
 
 Cream of Corn. — Cook together one tablespoonful of 
 butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. Add one cup of 
 water and one cup of tender sweet corn. Simmer fifteen 
 minutes, or until the corn is cooked, pour in a cup of sweet 
 cream, heat to boiling point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Cream of Chicken. — Cook together in a sauce-pan 
 one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of 
 flour. Add two cups of chicken broth and simmer five 
 minutes. Pour in two cups of thin sweet cream, heat 
 to boiling point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
Soup- Making. 117 
 
 This soup may be varied by the addition of a cup of 
 celery stock or a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Or the 
 flavor of the broth may be varied occasionally by cook- 
 ing with the chicken an onion and a blade of mace. 
 
 Cream of Veal. — Cook together in a sauce-pan one 
 tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour. 
 Add four cups of veal stock and one tablespoonful of 
 minced parsley, and simmer five minutes. Pour in one 
 cup of sweet cream, heat to boiling point, season to 
 taste, and serve. 
 
 Tomato Soup No. 2. — To two cups of celery stock 
 add two cups of tomato and a teaspoonful of sugar. 
 Simmer an hour and rub through a sieve. Cook to- 
 gether one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoon- 
 fuls of flour. Add the strained tomato, simmer five 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Transparent Tomato Soup No. i. — To two cups of 
 clear soup add two cups of tomato rubbed through a 
 sieve, and, when boiling, add one tablespoonful of arrow- 
 root or cornstarch, wet with two tablespoonfuls of cold 
 water. Simmer five minutes, add a tablespoonful of but- 
 ter, season to taste, and serv^e. 
 
 Transparent Tomato Soup No. 2. — To two cups of 
 clear soup add two cups of cooked tomato, rubbed 
 through a sieve, and one cup of pearled tapioca cooked 
 until transparent. Simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 Brown Soup No. i. — Cook together in a sauce-pan, 
 until brown, one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour. Add four cups of mixed soup stock, 
 simmer five minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
ii8 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Brown Soup No. 2. — Cook together in a sauce-pan, 
 until brown, one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour. Add four cups of any kind of stock, 
 one cup of strained tomato, one teaspoonful of sugar, 
 and half a teaspoonful of curry powder. Simmer ten 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Brown Soup No. 3. — To four cups of mixed soup 
 stock add two cups of black beans, boiled and rubbed 
 through a sieve, one cup of strained tomato, one table- 
 spoonful each of sugar and meat caramel, and one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour cooked 
 together until brown. Let simmer till smooth, season 
 to taste, and serve with a thin slice of lemon in each 
 plate. 
 
 Gumbo Soup. — Separate the joints of a chicken, cut 
 the breast and back in small pieces, and cook in clarified 
 butter until brown. Lift to a sauce-pan and add to the 
 chicken six cups of water. Add a tablespoonful of flour 
 to the butter in the spider, mix well, pour in two cups of 
 water, and let simmer until all the browning on the 
 spider is mixed with the water, then strain into the 
 sauce-pan containing the chicken. Let simmer an hour, 
 add two cups of okra, half a cup of sweet corn, half a 
 cup of tomatoes, skinned and cut in small pieces, half a 
 cup of string beans cut in dice and parboiled, and one 
 tablespoonful of minced onion. Simmer half an hour, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup. — Put a prepared calf s head, after 
 removing the brains, into a soup kettle, add a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, cover with boiling water, simmer twenty min- 
 utes, drain, and lay in cold water. Tie the brains in a 
 
Soup- Making. 119 
 
 cloth and cook five minutes in boiling salted water. 
 After the head has lain in cold water five minutes, put 
 it again in the kettle, add three quarts of compound 
 stock, four cloves, ten allspice, and a tablespoonful each 
 of sugar and vinegar. Simmer until the meat becomes 
 very tender, then drain and set the stock aside to cool. 
 Remove the meat from the head, and when perfectly- 
 cold cut the best portions into large dice. Cook to- 
 gether in a sauce-pan, until brown, two tablespoonfuls 
 each of butter and flour, add the stock from the head — 
 having first removed the grease — the meat cut in dice, 
 the brains cut in small pieces, the yolks of a dozen hard- 
 boiled eggs, the juice of a lemon, half a teaspoonful of 
 grated lemon peel, a fourth of a teaspoonful of grated 
 nutmeg, ten drops extract of ginger, and a tablespoon- 
 ful of sugar caramel. Simmer five minutes, season to 
 taste, and serve. 
 
 A thin slice of lemon may be served in each plate ; 
 and, if desired, force meat balls may be added to the in- 
 gredients of the soup. Two pairs of calves' feet may 
 be used in place of a calf's head. 
 
 Green Turtle Soup. — Let the turtle bleed several 
 hours with its head hanging downward, then divide the 
 shells, and remove the entrails. Clean the fins and 
 fleshy parts, put them in a sauce-pan, cover with water, 
 and simmer until the shells of the fins detach themselves. 
 Drain, cut in small pieces, put in a sauce-pan with six 
 cups of compound stock, simmer gently three hours, or 
 until cooked, then add three hard-boiled eggs, chopped, 
 two cups of Brown Sauce No. i, the juice of a lemon, 
 the grated peel of half a lemon, a quarter of a grated 
 
I20 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 nutmeg, and ten drops extract of ginger. Simmer fivt 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Clam Chowder. — Cut a quarter of a pound of salt 
 pork into thin sHces. Divide the sHces into strips and 
 saut6 in a spider until brown and crisp. Put the browned 
 pork into a sauce-pan and add to it a minced onion and 
 a tablespoonful of butter. Chop two dozen clams toler- 
 ably fine. Pare and cut in dice a quart of potatoes. 
 Skin and cut in pieces a pint of tomatoes. Break into 
 pieces three or four pilot biscuit. To the pork and 
 onion add these things in alternate layers. Season to 
 taste with salt and pepper. Cover with hot water. Put 
 a tight-fitting lid on the sauce-pan, and simmer gently 
 for half an hour, or until the potato is cooked. Add 
 two cups of hot cream or milk and serve. 
 
 Fish Chowder. — Prepare fresh codfish by removing 
 the skin and bones and cutting the fish in pieces about 
 an inch square. Follow the directions given for making 
 clam chowder, using, in place of the clams, four cups of 
 the prepared codfish. Codfish makes the finest fish 
 chowder, but other fish can be used, if desired. 
 
 Worcestershire or other fish sauce may be served with 
 either fish or clam chowder. 
 
 BISQUES. 
 
 Among soups the bisques hold a place about midway 
 between creams and purees. The creams are smoother 
 than either the bisques or purees. In consistency the 
 bisques are thicker than the creams but thinner than the 
 purees. 
 
 Bisque of Tomato. — Prepare a Tomato Soup No. 2, 
 
Soup- Making. 121 
 
 add a cup of sweet cream and a pinch of soda, and 
 serve immediately. 
 
 Bisque of Lobster. — To two cups of boiled lobster, 
 freed from bits of shell, add half a cup of tomato and 
 two cups of compound stock. Simmer fifteen minutes, 
 let cool, pound, if necessary, and rub through a sieve. 
 Cook together one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, add the strained lobster, simmer five 
 minutes, pour in two cups of cream, heat to boiling 
 point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Bisque of Clams. — Simmer two dozen clams in their 
 own juice about five minutes and drain the liquor from 
 them into a bowl. Chop the clams fine, or pound them 
 in a mortar, mix with the liquor, and rub through a 
 sieve. Cook together in a sauce-pan two tablespoonfuls 
 each of butter and flour, add the strained clams and 
 two cups of milk, and heat to boiling point. Stir the 
 mixture while heating, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Bisque of Oysters. — Bisque of oysters may be pre- 
 pared like bisque of clams. In either case one table- 
 spoonful of butter may be omitted, and a cup of cream 
 substituted for the cup of milk. 
 
 PUREES. 
 
 No matter how much of a vegetable is used for thick- 
 ening a pur6e a small quantity of arrow-root, corn- 
 starch, or flour should be used to hold the vegetable in 
 solution and make the soup smooth. And when the 
 vegetable is delicate in flavor it should be cooked in a 
 small quantity of water and all the water be used in 
 making the puree. 
 
122 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Puree of Peas. — Cook together one tablespoonful of 
 butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add two cups of 
 peas cooked very tender, in just enough water to cover 
 them, and rubbed through a sieve, also the water in 
 which the peas cooked, and two cups of veal or chicken 
 broth. Let simmer ten minutes, season, and serve. 
 
 Puree of Tomato No. i. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 two cups of cooked tomato, rubbed through a sieve, and 
 two cups of veal or chicken broth. Let simmer five 
 minutes, pour in a cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling 
 point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Puree of Tomato No. 2. — To two cups of compound 
 soup stock add two cups of cooked tomato strained 
 through a sieve, one tablespoonful of sugar caramel, and 
 one tablespoonful of arrow-root or cornstarch, mixed 
 with two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Let simmer five 
 minutes, add a tablespoonful of butter, season, and 
 serve. 
 
 Puree of Tomato No. 3. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 three cups of cooked tomato rubbed through a sieve, 
 simmer five minutes, pour in a cup of cream, bring to 
 boiling point, season to taste, add a quarter of a tea- 
 spoonful of soda, and serve. 
 
 Puree of Potato. — Cook together one tablespoonful 
 of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add two cups 
 of boiled potato and one cup of boiled onion rubbed 
 through a sieve, and two cups of hot milk. Let sim- 
 mer five minutes, pour in a cup of cream, bring to boil- 
 ing point, season to taste, and serve. 
 
Soup- Making. 123 
 
 Onions, if liked, may be used in larger proportion in 
 this pur^e. A desirable change may also be had by 
 frying the onions in clarified butter until brown, adding 
 a little water, and stewing until very tender, before 
 rubbing through the sieve. And when the onions are 
 fried in this manner, a simple broth of any kind may be 
 used in place of milk or cream, with very satisfactory 
 results. 
 
 Puree of Beans No. i. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 two cups of any simple stock, and two cups of well- 
 cooked beans, rubbed through a sieve. Simmer five 
 minutes, season, and serve. 
 
 Puree of Beans No. 2. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 one cup of sweet milk and two cups of lima beans stewed 
 and rubbed through a sieve. Simmer five minutes, 
 pour in a cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Puree of Beans No. 3. — Cut two slices of breakfast 
 bacon in small pieces and saute in a spider until a light 
 brown, add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and when 
 browned lightly add two cups of water, and simmer, in 
 a covered sauce-pan, fifteen minutes. Strain, add two 
 cups of cooked beans rubbed through a sieve, simmer 
 five minutes, season to taste, and, just before serving, 
 add a tablespoonful of tomato catsup. 
 
 Puree of Asparagus. — Cook together a tablespoonful 
 of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add one cup 
 of sweet milk and two cups of tender asparagus, cooked 
 and rubbed through a sieve. Let simmer five minutes, 
 
124 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 pour in a cup of cream, bring to boiling point, season, 
 and serve. 
 
 Any simple broth may be used in place of milk and 
 cream in making this puree. 
 
 Puree of Spinach. — Cook together one tablespoonful 
 of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add one cup 
 of sweet milk and two cups of cooked spinach rubbed 
 through a sieve. Let simmer five minutes, pour in a 
 cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season to 
 taste, and serve. 
 
 Any simple broth may be used in place of milk and 
 cream in this puree. 
 
 Puree of Salsify. — Cook together one tablespoonful 
 of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add one cup 
 of sweet milk and two cups of salsify cooked and rubbed 
 through a sieve. Let simmer five minutes, pour in a 
 cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season to 
 taste, and serve. 
 
 Chicken or veal broth may be used in place of milk 
 and cream in this pur6e. 
 
 Purees may be made of carrots, turnips, pars- 
 nips, beets, and other vegetables in the same way 
 they are made of salsify, asparagus, etc. In a similar 
 manner they can be made of chicken, game, fish, and 
 shell fish — the meat or fish being cooked tender, then 
 ground or pounded and rubbed through a sieve. 
 
 Puree of Chestnuts. — Blanch two cups of hulled 
 chestnuts, put them in two cups of boiling water slightly 
 salted, cook until tender, then rub through a sieve. Put 
 into a sauce-pan with two cups of chicken or veal stock, 
 thicken with one tablespoonful of butter and two table- 
 
Soup- Making. 125 
 
 spoonfuls of flour cooked together, add a teaspoonful of 
 sugar, let simmer five minutes, season to taste, and 
 serve. 
 
 Puree of Lentils. — In six cups of cold water 
 cook a quart of lentils, a slice of lean ham, the skeleton 
 of a roast chicken or other fowl, an onion, and half a 
 dozen roots of celery. Strain the broth into a sauce- 
 pan, rub the lentils through a sieve, add them to the 
 broth, thicken with a tablespoonful of butter and two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour cooked together, let simmer five 
 minutes, season, and serve. 
 
 A simpler puree of lentils may be made by cooking 
 the lentils in salted water, rubbing them through a sieve, 
 mixing them with the water in which they were cooked, 
 and then thickening the mixture with butter and flour. 
 
 Puree of Sorrel. — Boil a quart of sorrel until tender, 
 then drain and rub through a sieve. Cook together 
 a tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
 add to it the sorrel and four cups of chicken, veal, or 
 beef broth. Let simmer five minutes, season to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 A cup of sweet cream may be added, if liked, just be- 
 fore the puree is taken from the fire. 
 
CHAPTER XL 
 
 MEAT SAUCES. 
 
 The principles involved in making- meat sauces are 
 similar to those involved in making many soups ; and 
 the relation between the two subjects is so intimate that 
 from quite a number of sauces — when properly prepared 
 — excellent soups can be made by simply adding water 
 and seasoning. 
 
 A sauce is a liquid, semi-liquid, or stiff mixture com- 
 posed of oil, butter, cream, flour, eggs, fish, shell fish, 
 game, poultry, meat, vegetables, and fruits or fruit ex- 
 tracts, flavored and seasoned with herbs, spices, and 
 condiments. The mission of a sauce is to improve or 
 render more appetizing the dish with which it is served ; 
 and when needed for such purpose it should be chosen 
 with that object in view. Mixtures, denominated sauces, 
 are too frequently and too indiscriminately served. A 
 sauce that is inaptly chosen, and is unsuitable for the 
 dish with which it is served, detracts from, instead of im- 
 proving, the flavor of the dish. And a sauce served 
 with a dish when it is not needed is simply an imperti- 
 nence. 
 
 A knowledge of these facts should lead to a strict ob- 
 servance of the following rules : ist. All foods of deli- 
 cate flavors when freshly cooked are not, except in rare 
 
 cases, improved by being served with made sauces ; 2d, 
 
 -126 
 
Meat Sauces. 127 
 
 Pungent and highly flavored sauces should be served 
 with foods that lack flavor, or with those the flavor of 
 which is obtrusive — so they may supply flavor in the 
 former case and modify it in the latter. 
 
 To call sauces, soups, and made dishes by arbitrary 
 names that give no idea of their component parts is con- 
 fusing and misleading to the average reader. Hence 
 the name given to each sauce in the following list is that 
 which best indicates its constituents and character. 
 
 Parsley Butter No. i. — To one tablespoonful of but- 
 ter add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and mix well. 
 Season and serve. 
 
 Parsley Butter No. 2. — Prepare as above and add 
 a teaspoonful of lemon juice. 
 
 Brown Butter No. i. — Cook in a small sauce-pan, 
 until brown, two tablespoonfuls of butter, add a teaspoon- 
 ful of lemon juice or vinegar, season, and serve on 
 boiled fish, oysters, tripe, calf's brains, etc. 
 
 Brown Butter No. 2. — Make like Brown Butter No. 
 I, then add a tablespoonful of onion juice or grated 
 onion, a teaspoonful of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of 
 mustard. Season and serve. 
 
 Brown Butter No. 3. — Cook in a small sauce-pan 
 two tablespoonfuls of butter until brown, add one table- 
 spoonful each of vinegar and Worcestershire sauce, 
 season, and serve. Tomato catsup may be used in place 
 of Worcestershire sauce. 
 
 Drawn Butter. — Cook together until well mixed one 
 tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add one cup of 
 water or broth, simmer five minutes, then add another 
 tablespoonful of butter. Season and serve. 
 
128 The Art of Cookeiy. 
 
 Egg Sauce. — To a cup of drawn butter add a hard- 
 boiled ^^% sliced or minced, and serve. 
 
 Mushroom Sauce. — Cook together, until a light 
 brown color, two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, 
 add a can of button mushrooms, with the water it con- 
 tains, and a cupful of water or broth. Simmer five min- 
 utes, stirring meanwhile, season, and serve. The flavor 
 of the mushroom is more distinct and pronounced if the 
 sauce is seasoned only with salt and mixed pepper. If 
 broth is used in the preparation of mushroom sauce in- 
 stead of water, it should be the broth of such meat as 
 the sauce is to be served with — for instance, chicken 
 broth when to be served with chicken, beef broth when 
 to be served with beef, etc. 
 
 Fresh Mushroom Sauce. — Put in a granite-ware or 
 porcelain-lined sauce-pan two tablespoonfuls of butter. 
 When hot add two cups of fresh, prepared mushrooms, 
 cover closely, and cook briskly two or three minutes. 
 Season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve with 
 broiled beefsteak, birds, or sweetbreads. 
 
 Brown Sauce No. i. — Cook together until brown two 
 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two cups of 
 water from the roasting pan, after it has been strained and 
 skimmed of grease, and simmer five minutes. Serve 
 with roast beef, mutton, veal, pork, turkey, chicken, etc. 
 
 Brown Sauce No. 2. — Cook together until brown two 
 tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two cups of 
 soup stock, or water from the roasting pan, half a cup 
 of strained tomato, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. 
 Simmer five minutes, season with salt and mixed pep- 
 per, and serve. 
 
Meat Sauces. 129 
 
 Brown Sauce No. 3. — Saute, in clarified butter or 
 drippings, a medium-sized onion, carrot, and tomato, 
 until a light brown. Put them in a sauce-pan with 
 three cloves, four allspice, some roots and trimmings 
 of celery, two or three sprigs of parsley, a slice of sweet 
 turnip, a small bay leaf, a bit of mace, and a pinch of 
 thyme or other sweet herb. Add four cups of broth 
 or mixed stock, cover closely, and simmer gently for 
 two hours. Strain out the vegetables and herbs, re- 
 move the grease, and add to the broth a tablespoonful 
 each of glaze, or meat extract, sugar caramel, Worces- 
 tershire sauce, and walnut catsup, or Chili or Chutney 
 sauce. Thicken with two tablespoonfuls each of butter 
 and flour cooked together until brown, season to taste, 
 and serve. 
 
 Sauce Piquant No. i. — To Brown Butter No. i add 
 a tablespoonful of mixed pickle chopped fine, heat, 
 season, and serve. 
 
 Sauce Piquant No. 2. — Cook together until brown 
 one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add half a 
 cup of strained tomato and two cups of soup stock, or 
 water from the roasting pan. Simmer five minutes, add 
 half a cup of mixed pickles, chopped fine, heat to boil- 
 ing point, season, and serve. 
 
 Jelly Sauce No. i. — Brown two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, add two tablespoonfuls of currant or other acid 
 jelly, cook till melted and hot, season with salt and 
 mixed pepper, and serve with venison steaks, mutton 
 chops, or broiled birds. 
 
 Jelly Sauce No. 2. — To two cups of brown sauce add 
 one cup of currant jelly, heat till dissolved and boiling, 
 
130 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 season to taste, and serve with roast venison, mutton, 
 or wild ducks. 
 
 Jelly Sauce No. 3. — Cook together in a sauce-pan 
 two tablespoonfuls of butter and one tablespoonful of 
 flour until brown, add two tablespoonfuls of currant, 
 cranberry, or other acid jelly, one tablespoonful of lemon 
 juice or vinegar, quarter of a teaspoonful each of mus- 
 tard flour, and grated lemon peel, half as much mace 
 or nutmeg, a dozen olives, chopped fine, and a cup of 
 broth or water from the roasting pan. Simmer five 
 minutes, season, and serve with roast duck, venison, or 
 mutton — or use in re-warming cold roast duck, venison, 
 or mutton. 
 
 Parsley Sauce No. i. — Cook together a tablespoon- 
 ful each of butter and flour, add a cup of chicken broth 
 and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Simmer five min- 
 utes, add another tablespoonful of butter, season, and 
 serve with boiled chicken. 
 
 Parsley Sauce No. 2. — Make as before directed, and 
 just before serving add a hard-boiled ^'gg chopped fine. 
 
 Caper Sauce No. i. — Cook together a tablespoonful 
 each of butter and flour, add one cup of lamb broth, 
 one tablespoonful of capers, and one hard-boiled ^g% 
 chopped fine. Simmer five minutes, add another table- 
 spoonful of butter, season, and serve with boiled lamb. 
 
 Caper Sauce No. 2. — To the ingredients used in the 
 last formula add a tablespoonful of minced parsley and a 
 tablespoonful of vinegar from the capers. Use mutton 
 instead of lamb broth and serve with boiled mutton. 
 
 Fish Sauce. — Cook together a tablespoonful each of 
 butter and flour, add one cup of water and a tablespoon- 
 
Meat Sauces. 131 
 
 ful of minced parsley. Simmer five minutes, add an- 
 other tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful each of 
 minced onion and lemon juice, and, if liked, one of 
 bottled fish sauce. Season and serve with boiled or 
 steamed fish. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. — To one cup of drawn butter made 
 with water add a dozen medium-sized oysters and simmer 
 five minutes, or until the thin edges wrinkle and sepa- 
 rate. Season and serve with boiled codfish, boiled 
 turkey, capon, or chicken. 
 
 Celery Sauce — To one cup of drawn butter made 
 with celery stock add one cup of white celery, cut in 
 dice, and cooked tender. Simmer five minutes, season, 
 and serve with boiled or roasted turkey, chicken, or 
 veal. 
 
 Salsify Sauce. — To one cup of drawn butter made 
 with salsify stock add one cup of salsify, cut in small 
 pieces and cooked until tender. Season and serve in 
 place of oyster sauce. 
 
 WHITE SAUCES. 
 
 White sauces resemble drawn butter sauces, but differ 
 from them in one particular — they invariably contain 
 milk or cream. White sauces may be made distinctive 
 and unlike each other by the use of different flavorings. 
 But the flavoring should always be suited to the food 
 with which the sauce is to be served, and should not 
 darken the color of the sauce. Milk may be used in 
 place of cream in making white sauces, but in such cases 
 an additional spoonful of butter should be added to give 
 richness to the sauce. White sauces made with milk or 
 
132 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 cream may be used as a substitute for drawn butter, for 
 ^%%t oyster, celery, or salsify sauce. 
 
 Bread Sauce No. i. — To one cup of sifted bread 
 crumbs add half a cup of finely minced onion and 
 one cup of sweet milk. Simmer ten minutes, add a 
 cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season, and 
 serve. 
 
 Bread Sauce No. 2. — To one cup of sifted bread 
 crumbs add one cup of celery broth, simmer ten min- 
 utes, add one cup of cream and one cup of cooked 
 celery, bring to boiling point, season, and serve. 
 
 White Sauce No. i. — Cook together until well mixed 
 one tablespoonful each of butter and flour, add a cup of 
 sweet cream, simmer five minutes, season, and serve. 
 
 White Sauce No. 2. — Cook together until well mixed 
 two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add a cup 
 of cream, simmer five minutes, season, and serve. 
 
 White Sauce No. 3. — Cook together two tablespoon- 
 fuls each of butter and flour, add one cup of white soup 
 stock, simmer five minutes, add one cup of sweet cream, 
 heat to boiling point, season, and serve. 
 
 White Sauce No. 4 — Cook together until well mixed 
 one tablespoonful of butter and one teaspoonful of 
 flour, add a cup of sweet cream, simmer five minutes, 
 season, and serve. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. — To one cup of White Sauce No. i 
 add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and two dozen 
 shrimps that have been cooked and prepared, heat to 
 boiling point, season, and serve. 
 
 This sauce may be varied occasionally by adding to it 
 a teaspoonful of anchovy paste. 
 
Meat Sauces, 133 
 
 Lobster Sauce No. i. — To one cup of White Sauce 
 No. I add one cup of cooked lobster, picked into small 
 pieces, two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and a salt 
 spoonful of mustard. Heat to boiling point, season, 
 and serve. 
 
 The coral of the lobster mashed to a smooth paste 
 with a little butter and added to this sauce improves it. 
 
 Lobster Sauce No. 2. — To one cup of White Sauce 
 No. I add half a cup of strained cooked tomato and 
 one cup of cooked lobster meat cut in small pieces, or 
 pounded and rubbed through a sieve, heat to boiling 
 point, season, and serve. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. — To one cup of White Sauce No. i 
 add a tablespoonful each of lemon juice and anchovy 
 paste, heat to boiling point, season, and serve. 
 
 Egg, parsley, caper, lobster, shrimp, and anchovy 
 sauce are all used as sauces for boiled fish, and are all 
 excellent, but the most popular of all fish sauces is : 
 
 Sauce Hollandaise No. i. — To one cup of White 
 Sauce No. i add a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground 
 mace, a teaspoonful of onion juice, and a tablespoonful of 
 lemon juice or vinegar. Bring to boiling point, then 
 stir in the yolks of three eggs, well beaten, with a table- 
 spoonful of water. Add the eggs slowly and continue 
 the cooking, after the ^^% is all in, for about a minute. 
 Remove from the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, 
 season, and serve. 
 
 Sauce Hollandaise No. 2. — Prepare as in last formula, 
 and add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff, after remov- 
 ing the sauce from the fire. 
 
 Sauce Tartare. — To one cup of mayonnaise dressing 
 
134 "^^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 seasoned with mixed seasoning, add a teaspoonful of 
 French mustard and a tablespoonful each of pickled 
 onions, capers, water cress, and parsley minced fine be- 
 fore measuring, also a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. 
 Mix all well together and serve. 
 
 Glaze. — Put a quart of simple or compound stock into 
 a granite-ware or porcelain-lined sauce-pan, and cook 
 very slowly until as thick as syrup and light brown in 
 color. Let cool and use. 
 
 Tomato Sauce No. i. — Simmer gently for an hour 
 four medium-sized tomatoes cut in slices, one tablespoon- 
 ful of minced onion, and three cloves. Rub through a 
 sieve, add a cup of water with which a teaspoonful of 
 cornstarch is mixed, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Sim- 
 mer five minutes, add a tablespoonful of butter, season, 
 and serve. 
 
 This sauce is especially appropriate with boiled tongue, 
 ham, or corned beef 
 
 Tomato Sauce No. 2. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 one cup of cooked, strained tomato, and one cup of 
 compound stock. Simmer five minutes, season, and 
 serve. 
 
 Tomato Sauce No. 3. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 one cup of strained tomato, and one cup of celery or 
 chicken broth. Simmer five minutes, season, and 
 serve. 
 
 This is an appropriate sauce for chicken croquettes, 
 veal cutlets, and fried or sauted sweetbreads. 
 
 Tomato Sauce No. 4. — Cook together one table- 
 
Meat Sauces. 135 
 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, add 
 one cup of strained tomato, simmer five minutes, add 
 one cup of sweet cream, bring to boiling point, season 
 to taste, and serve. 
 
 This sauce can be served appropriately with either 
 croquettes or cutlets of chicken, sweetbreads, lobster, 
 or fish. 
 
 Tomato Sauce No. 5. — Cook together one table- 
 spoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour until 
 brown, add one cup of strained tomato, one cup of 
 mixed stock, and a tablespoonful each of sugar caramel 
 and glaze, or extract of beef Simmer five minutes, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 This is an appropriate sauce to serve with mutton 
 chops, Hamburg steak, or croquettes of beef, veal, or 
 mutton. 
 
CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 The average individual entertains the idea that when 
 meat, vegetables, and other edibles are cooked in grease 
 they are fried. And, with that idea in mind, writers and 
 lecturers on cookery and hygiene have for a good many 
 years been denouncing fried food and heaping anathemas 
 upon the frying pan. There is no doubt that food of 
 any kind that becomes saturated with grease while being 
 cooked is unhealthful and productive of disease. But it 
 does not, therefore, follow that articles of food properly 
 fried are less healthful than the same articles cooked in 
 any other manner. And until it is proven that they are, 
 it is unjust to hold the frying pan responsible for the 
 evils that arise from its misuse, or are incident to its 
 abuse, by ignorant or unskilled cooks. Are not the 
 under-baked rolls, the leathery pan-cakes, the soggy 
 boiled vegetables, the wretchedly roasted meats, the half- 
 broiled fish, the insipid stewed fruit, the smoky-tasting 
 tea, the sloppy coffee, and the other badly-cooked 
 articles that are served every day at a majority of tables 
 equally as detrimental to health as the denounced prod- 
 ucts of the frying pan ? And would it not be wiser to 
 endeavor to improve the methods, rather than to at- 
 tempt to abolish the process, of frying ? 
 
 Frying is the cooking of food in oil or fat, and is one 
 
 136 
 
Frying. 137 
 
 of the most convenient and appetizing methods of pre- 
 paring many articles of diet. But for the performance 
 of the process three things should be carefully consid- 
 ered : I St, the temperature of the oil or fat ; 2d, the 
 quantity of grease to be used ; 3d, the form or shape of 
 the article to be fried. 
 
 In order to fry properly the grease must be hot 
 enough to instantly sear the surface of the article put 
 into it. This instantaneous searing or cooking of the 
 surface retains the juices and flavors inside the article 
 being cooked, and prevents the absorption of grease. 
 Butter cannot be used for frying, as it will burn before 
 reaching a sufficiently high temperature to cook the food. 
 And olive oil or cotton-seed oil can be heated to a much 
 higher temperature without burning than lard or beef 
 drippings. The temperature of grease should always 
 be tested before there is danger of its burning, by drop- 
 ping a slice of raw potato into it. As soon as the po- 
 tato becomes brown the grease is hot enough for frying 
 most things. The quantity of grease used should be 
 sufficient to entirely submerge the article put into it. 
 The most desirable shape or form for articles of food 
 that are to be fried, if reference is had only to perfect 
 frying, is the spherical or round, as articles of that shape 
 can touch each other at but few points, while nearly 
 their entire surface is at once exposed to the direct action 
 of the hot grease. Thin slices of potato, if the potato 
 is sliced lengthwise, given a twist and dropped into ice 
 water, will fry more perfectly than without the twist. 
 All articles of food that have been wet should be freed 
 from water by shaking in a sieve or towel before they 
 
138 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 are put to fry. Only a few articles should be put into 
 the fat at a time, lest the heat of the grease be reduced 
 below the frying temperature. A frying basket is con- 
 venient if properly used. But it should not be filled 
 with food and lowered into the frying kettle unless the 
 food be of a delicate nature, like oysters and croquettes ; 
 and then the basket should be lowered into the hot 
 grease very slowly. As a general rule the basket should 
 be lowered into the grease empty, and the articles to be 
 fried then put into it one by one. 
 
 Fried food may be divided into three classes : ist, 
 That class of food which requires no special protection 
 to prevent the absorption of the grease. To this class 
 belong potatoes, doughnuts, fritters, etc. 2d, That 
 class which needs a special protection called a grease- 
 proof coating. To this class belong chicken, fish, chops, 
 etc. 3d, That class which is very soft or moist, or of 
 perfectly smooth surface, and which, on account of one 
 or more of these conditions, must be given all the pro- 
 tection possible. Articles of this class of food should 
 be wrapped in a mixture of equal parts of wheat flour 
 and corn-meal, in order that their surfaces may be 
 rendered dry and rough before applying a coating of &%% 
 batter. To this class belong oysters, scollops, cro- 
 quettes, etc. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. — Prepare the potatoes in any form 
 desired. Let them soak in cold water until wanted for 
 frying. Heat the grease in the frying kettle. Test its 
 temperature with a slice of potato, and if hot enough 
 lower the frying basket into it, and having drained the 
 potatoes iJD a sieve and shaken them in a towel to free 
 
Frying. 139 
 
 them of moisture, add a few slices at a time until the 
 bottom of the basket is covered. The rapidity with 
 which the potatoes may be dropped into the basket must 
 be determined by the appearance of the fat. If the sur- 
 face of the grease becomes covered with bubbles, it is 
 an indication that its temperature is too low for perfect 
 frying. Wait until the bubbles disappear before adding 
 more potatoes. This test of temperature will apply to 
 the frying of all articles. As soon as the potatoes are 
 sufficiently cooked lift the basket from the grease, shake 
 it over the kettle to free it and its contents from grease, 
 dust the potatoes with salt and pepper, and pour into a 
 warm dish lined with several folds of cheese-cloth. 
 Serve on a napkin in a platter. 
 
 Fried Apples. — Wash and wipe the apples. Remove 
 the blossom ends and all imperfections of the skin. 
 Slice an eighth of an inch in thickness, cover the bot- 
 tom of the frying basket with these slices, and fry in hot 
 grease until a light brown color. Shake the basket to 
 free the apples from grease, and serve with either broiled 
 or sauted ham, breakfast bacon, or pork chops. 
 
 Fried Onions. — Slice onions, after removing the dry 
 skins, about a sixteenth of an inch in thickness. Cover 
 the bottom of the frying basket with these slices and fry 
 in hot grease until a rich brown color. Shake the bas- 
 ket to free them of grease, and dust lightly with salt and 
 pepper. Serve with beefsteak, or with any kind of 
 chops. 
 
 Fried Doughnuts. — Sift three pints of flour into a 
 mixing bowl. Make a well in the center into which put 
 half a pint of sugar, a quarter of a pint of sour milk, 
 
140 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 two eggs, two tablespoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of 
 soda, and an eighth of a nutmeg, grated. Mix these in- 
 gredients well together, and work in the flour gradually 
 until a dough is formed sufficiently stiff to be rolled 
 upon a well-floured board into a sheet half an inch in 
 thickness. Cut in any shape desired, fry in hot grease, 
 and drain on cheese-cloth. When cold dust with pul- 
 verized sugar. Sweet milk and a heaping teaspoonful of 
 baking powder can be used in place of sour milk and 
 soda. 
 
 Fried Corn Muflins — Take one cup of corn-meal, 
 half a cup of flour, two cups of boiling sweet milk, one 
 teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, two eggs. 
 
 Scald the meal with the boiling milk and let it stand 
 until cold, then add the eggs unbeaten and sift in the 
 flour lightly. Fry in spoonfuls in deep fat. 
 
 Fried Corn-bread — Mix together a pint of corn-meal, 
 a teaspoonful of sugar, and half a teaspoonful of salt. 
 Pour over the mixture a pint of boiling water, and stir 
 into it a teaspoonful of butter. Add gradually half a 
 pint of cold milk, and then an unbeaten q.%%. Stir well 
 and fry by dropping a spoonful at a time into hot 
 grease. Drain on cheese-cloth and serve. 
 
 Plain Fritters — Stir together a pint of flour, half a 
 pint of cold water, the yolks of four eggs, two table- 
 spoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of olive oil or 
 melted butter, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat with 
 a Dover beater until very light, then mix in the whites 
 of the eggs beaten stiff and fry in hot grease, dropping 
 in a tablespoonful at a time. Drain on cheese-cloth, 
 dust with pulverized sugar, and serve. Or omit the 
 
Frying. 14^ 
 
 dusting of sugar, and serve with orange, lemon, rasp- 
 berry, or any simple fruit sauce. 
 
 Apple Fritters. — Select smooth, medium-sized, sour 
 apples. Pare whole, remove the cores, slice in 
 rounds an eighth of an inch in thickness, dip in batter 
 prepared as for plain fritters, fry in hot grease until a 
 nice brown, drain on cheese-cloth, dust with pulverized 
 sugar, and serve. 
 
 Peach Fritters.— Select hard, ripe peaches, separate 
 into halves, and remove from the stone. Pare and di- 
 vide each half into two slices, not quarters, lengthwise. To 
 a batter made as for plain fritters, add a teaspoonful of 
 peach extract, dip each slice of peach into the batter, 
 fry in hot grease, drain, dust with pulverized sugar, and 
 
 serve. 
 
 Pine-Apple Fritters.— Pare a pine-apple, cut it in 
 slices an eighth of an inch thick, and divide the slices 
 into quarters. Dip each quarter in batter prepared as 
 for plain fritters, fry a light brown in hot grease, drain 
 on cheese-cloth, dust with pulverized sugar, and serve. 
 
 Banana Fritters.— Peel the bananas, split in halves 
 lengthwise, divide the halves in the middle crosswise, 
 dip in batter prepared as for plain fritters, fry brown in 
 hot grease, drain on cheese-cloth, dust with pulverized 
 sugar, and serve. 
 
 Corn Fritters. — ^To a pint of sweet corn, either canned 
 or cut uncooked from the cob, add an even teaspoonful 
 of salt and a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 Mix well and stir into a pint of batter prepared as for 
 plain fritters. Fry in hot grease, dropping in a table- 
 spoonful at a time, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve. 
 
142 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Sweetbread Fritters — Soak the sweetbreads in salted 
 cold water half an hour. Then put them into slightly- 
 salted boiling water, simmer gently until tender, remove 
 from the fire, and let cool in the water in which they 
 cooked. When cold remove the skin from them, then 
 separate into their natural divisions, cut the larger pieces 
 in two, so as to render them uniform in size, season 
 lightly with salt and pepper, and mix with an equal 
 quantity of batter prepared as for plain fritters. Drop 
 a tablespoonful of the mixture at a time into hot grease, 
 fry until brown, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve. 
 
 Oyster Fritters. — Prepare a batter as for plain frit- 
 ters, omitting the sugar, and season to taste with salt and 
 pepper. Drain the oysters in a colander. If they are 
 large stick a small skewer through the thin edge of each 
 oyster, dip into the batter, and fry in hot grease until 
 brown. If they are small mix equal quantities of oys- 
 ters and batter together, and fry, a tablespoonful at a 
 time, in hot grease. Drain on cheese-cloth and serve. 
 
 Nun*s Puffs. — Put a cupful of water in a sauce-pan 
 over the fire, add half a cupful, light measure, of butter, 
 and when it boils stir in three fourths of a cupful of 
 flour, and cook five minutes, stirring constantly with a 
 wooden spoon. Remove from the fire, and when cool, 
 not cold, stir in, one by one, four eggs. Drop, a tea- 
 spoonful at a time, into hot grease, being careful not to 
 get the frying kettle too full, as the pufis enlarge very 
 much while cooking. Let them remain in the kettle 
 about five minutes, drain carefully on cheese-cloth, and 
 when cold dust with cinnamon and pulverized sugar. 
 Or omit the cinnamon and sugar, make an incision in 
 
Prying. 143 
 
 each puff, and fill with whipped cream flavored with 
 vanilla and sweetened. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. — To a cupful of boiled, drained rice 
 add half a cupful of sweet milk, a tablespoonful of sugar, 
 and a teaspoonful of butter. Put in a sauce-pan over 
 the fire and simmer gently, stirring frequently, until the 
 rice has absorbed the milk. Remove and, when slightly 
 cooled, flavor with half a teaspoonful of lemon extract, 
 add the white of one ^^^^^ unbeaten, fry in hot grease, 
 dropping in a spoonful at a time, drain on cheese-cloth, 
 and serve with pulverized sugar or with any fruit sauce. 
 
 Hominy Croquettes. — To a cupful of granulated or 
 fine hominy, well cooked, add a fourth of a cupful of 
 sweet milk, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
 butter, and the unbeaten white of one ^%%. Mix well, 
 and fry and serve in the same manner as rice cro- 
 quettes. 
 
 Fresh Fish Croquettes — To a cup of any kind of 
 cold fresh fish, from which the bones and skin have been 
 removed, add half a cup of fine bread crumbs that have 
 soaked for half an hour in half a cup of sweet milk, a 
 teaspoonful of melted butter, salt and pepper to taste, and 
 the unbeaten white of an Q.^g, mix well together, fry by 
 the spoonful in hot grease, drain on cheese-cloth, and 
 serve with poached eggs or breakfast bacon. 
 
 Lobster Croquettes. — To a cup of picked up lobster 
 add half a cup of bread crumbs softened in half a cup 
 of sweet milk, salt and pepper to taste, a dust of mus- 
 tard, and the unbeaten white of an ^%%. Mix well to- 
 gether, fry in spoonfuls in hot fat, drain on cheese-cloth, 
 and serve. 
 
144 '^^^ -^^^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 Shrimp Croquettes. — Prepare like lobster, omitting 
 the mustard, and fry and serve in the same manner. 
 
 Codfish Balls. — To a cup of salt codfish, cut in small 
 pieces, freed from skin and bone, and well washed in 
 cold water, add a cup of raw potato cut also in small 
 pieces. Put in a sauce-pan, cover with boiling water, 
 and simmer gently until the potato is cooked. Then 
 drain, dry off carefully, mash the codfish and potato to- 
 gether, add a dust of white pepper, a tablespoonful of 
 sweet milk, a teaspoonful of butter, and the unbeaten 
 whites of two eggs, or one whole ^%%. Fry in spoon- 
 fuls in hot fat, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve with 
 poached eggs on toast. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes No. i — To one cup of finely 
 chopped chicken, either boiled, stewed, or roasted, add 
 half a cup of bread crumbs, softened in half a cup of 
 sweet cream, one teaspoonful of melted butter, salt and 
 pepper to taste, and the unbeaten white of an ^^'g. 
 Mix well together, fry in spoonfuls in hot fat, drain on 
 cheese-cloth, and serve in a napkin, garnished with 
 lemon points and curled parsley. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes No. 2 — To half a cup of White 
 Sauce No. 2 add a cup of cooked chicken, finely hashed, 
 a teaspoonful of minced onion, half a teaspoonful of 
 minced parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread 
 on a greased plate to cool, and when cold form into 
 croquettes, cover with ^gg batter, roll in crumbs, fry in 
 a basket in hot fat, and drain on cheese-cloth. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes No. 3. — To a cup of finely hashed 
 cooked chicken add half a cup of finely chopped mush- 
 rooms, half a cup of White Sauce No. i, and salt and 
 
Frying, I45 
 
 pepper to taste. Let cool, form into croquettes, cover 
 with ^%% batter, roll in crumbs, fry in a basket in hot 
 fat, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve in a napkin, gar- 
 nished with cresses or lemon points. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes No. 4. — To a cup of finely hashed 
 cooked chicken add half a cup of boiled calf's brains, 
 an eighth of a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, half 
 the quantity of nutmeg or mace, and a tablespoonful of 
 White Sauce No. i. Season to taste with salt and pep- 
 per, form into croquettes, cover with ^<g% batter, roll in 
 crumbs, fry in a basket in hot fat, and serve like Chicken 
 Croquettes No. i or 2. 
 
 Sweetbread Croquettes. — Prepare the sweetbreads as 
 directed for sweetbread fritters and make the croquettes 
 like Chicken Croquettes No. i or No. 3. 
 
 Veal Croquettes. — Use boiled, stewed, or roasted 
 veal, and follow the directions given for making chicken 
 croquettes of either kind. 
 
 Fried Chicken. — Cut the chicken in pieces a suit- 
 able size for serving. Lay the pieces, skin side down, 
 on a plate or board, dust freely with salt and lightly with 
 pepper, cover with ^'g^ batter, roll in cracker crumbs, 
 and fry in hot fat until they are a rich brown color and 
 can be pierced easily with a fork. Then drain on cheese- 
 cloth and serve in a napkin, garnished with cresses, cel- 
 ery tips, or curled parsley. 
 
 Fried Prairie Chicken. — Fry and serve prairie chicken 
 in all respects like chicken. 
 
 Fried Quail. — Fold back the wings and use small 
 wooden skewers to hold the legs in place ; season with 
 salt and pepper, dip in ^%% batter, fry in hot fat until a 
 
146 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 light brown color, drain on cheese-cloth, and serve in a 
 napkin, garnished the same as chicken. 
 
 Fried Fish. — Cut fresh fish of any kind in pieces a 
 suitable size for serving, and season with salt and pepper. 
 Fry and serve the same as chicken. 
 
 Fried Oysters. — Select large oysters, drain on a sieve, 
 lay singly on a plate, and season with salt and pepper. 
 Lift each oyster by sticking a small skewer through its 
 thin edge, dip it in white corn-meal and flour sifted to- 
 gether in equal proportions, cover with ^^% batter, then 
 with crumbs, fry in a basket in very hot fat, drain on 
 cheese-cloth, and serve on a warm platter, garnished 
 with lemon points. 
 
 Fried Mush. — Cut cold mush into squares, cubes, or 
 oblong pieces a suitable size for serving, cover with flour 
 and meal sifted together, dip in ^^^ batter, roll in crumbs, 
 fry in a basket in hot fat, until a rich brown color, drain 
 on cheese-cloth, and serve in a napkin ; or use to gar- 
 nish broiled or fried chicken or fish. 
 
 Fried Veal Chops. — Select rib or loin veal chops an 
 inch in thickness, dust lightly with pulverized sugar and 
 pepper and more freely with salt, dip in corn-meal and 
 flour sifted together, cover with ^g'g batter, roll in 
 cracker crumbs, fry in hot fat, drain on cheese-cloth, and 
 serve. 
 
 SAUTEING. 
 
 Sauteing, which means cooking by tumbling or toss- 
 ing about in a small quantity of hot fat, is a modified 
 form of frying, and a very excellent method of cooking 
 many articles of food. As in frying, the oils or fats 
 which will bear the highest degree of heat are most 
 
Frying. 147 
 
 perfectly adapted to sauteing. But butter, which will 
 burn at a low temperature, may, if clarified, be used alone 
 or mixed with lard or drippings quite satisfactorily for 
 the purpose. Many things are more palatable when 
 sauted than when fried, notably oysters, egg-plant, 
 onions, and apples. 
 
 If a pan or griddle is to be used more than once for 
 sauteing it should be wiped each time it is used, so as to 
 remove all grease and crumbs. The best utensil for 
 sauteing is a flat- bottomed steel spider or griddle. 
 
 Clarified Butter. — To clarify butter heat it to boiling 
 point, and let simmer gently until the salt settles and a 
 frothy scum arises, leaving the oily portions transparent. 
 Remove the scum, drain the oil carefully from the salt, 
 and the clarified butter is ready for use. Butter in be- 
 ing clarified should never be allowed to scorch or become 
 brown. 
 
 To Saute Egg-Plant. — Slice the egg-plant in slices 
 about a fourth of an inch in thickness. Pare off the 
 rind, dust lightly with white pepper and freely, on both 
 sides, with flour. Put two tablespoonfuls of clarified 
 butter in a spider over a brisk fire, and, as soon as the 
 butter is hot, cover the bottom of the spider with the 
 prepared slices of egg-plant, brown on the lower side, 
 and turn them over. When brown on both sides, if 
 the egg-plant is not soft in the center, shove to a cooler 
 place on the range and let it finish cooking. Serve on 
 a warm platter. 
 
 To Saute Squash. — Summer squash, when young and 
 tender, may be saut6d in the same manner as egg-plant 
 
 To Saute Onions. — Remove the dry skins from the 
 
148 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 onion, and slice the onion in thin sHces crosswise. To 
 a pint of sliced onions allow three tablespoonfuls of 
 clarified butter. Put the butter in a spider over the fire, 
 and when sufficiently hot add the onions. As soon as 
 the onions in the lower layer become brown lift them 
 with a limber knife from the bottom of the spider, and 
 let those not brown take their place. After they are 
 brown, if the onions are not cooked enough the spider 
 can be covered, shoved to a cooler part of the range, and 
 the cooking be continued a few minutes longer. Serve 
 on a warm platter, or as a garnish to beefsteak or pork 
 chops. 
 
 To Saute Tomatoes. — Select smooth tomatoes of me- 
 dium size, wash, wipe, and cut each of them in three 
 slices. Dust the slices on both sides with salt, pepper, 
 and flour, a little sugar also, if liked, and brown in 
 clarified butter over a hot fire. Serve on a warm plat- 
 ter, or as a garnish for beefsteak, ham, breakfast bacon, 
 pork, mutton, lamb, or veal chops. 
 
 To Saute Mush. — Cut cold mush in sHces a quarter 
 of an inch thick, brown on a griddle well greased with 
 clarified butter, and serve on a warm platter. 
 
 To Saute Scrapple. — Slice, cook, and serve the same 
 as mush. If the scrapple be rich the griddle need not 
 be greased. 
 
 To Saute Breakfast Bacon. — Slice thin, remove the 
 rind and brown edges, lay upon a hot spider over a 
 moderate fire until brown on both sides and crisp. Serve 
 as a relish with beefsteak, fresh fish, fish balls, or poached 
 eggs. 
 
 To Saute Ham. — Have the slices of ham about a six- 
 
Frying. 149 
 
 teenth of an inch thick, remove the rind and brown 
 edges, lay upon a hot spider or pan over a quick fire un- 
 til the under side is brown, then turn the slices and 
 brown the other side. Put two or three tablespoonfuls 
 of boiling water in the spider, cover it closely so as to 
 shut in the steam, shove to the back of the range, and 
 let simmer ten minutes. At the end of that time lift the 
 slices of ham upon a warm platter, drain the grease from 
 the pan, add a small piece of butter, or a spoonful of 
 cream, mix with the browning in the pan, pour over the 
 ham on the platter, and serve. 
 
 To Saute Potatoes. — Slice cold boiled potatoes in 
 slices a sixteenth of an inch in thickness, season to taste 
 with salt and pepper, and brown on both sides in clari- 
 fied butter. Serve in a warm, covered dish, or as a 
 garnish to beefsteak or chops of any kind. 
 
 To Saute Sweet Potatoes. — Boil until soft enough to 
 be pierced easily with a fork, remove the skins, slice 
 lengthwise, dust lightly with salt, pepper, and sugar, 
 and brown in clarified butter in a spider. Or split in 
 halves or quarters lengthwise, roll in melted butter, put 
 in a dripping pan, and cook in the oven. Serve in a 
 warm covered dish, or as a garnish for beefsteak or chops. 
 
 To Saute Apples. — Wash and wipe sour apples, re- 
 move the blossom end and all blemishes of skin, slice in 
 rounds a sixteenth of an inch thick, dust with flour, and 
 cook in clarified butter in a spider till brown on both 
 sides. If the slices are not soft when brown, cover the 
 spider and let them simmer a few minutes on a cooler 
 part cf the range. Serve with broiled ham, breakfast 
 bacon, pork chops, or tenderloin. 
 
150 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To Saute Bananas. — Peel the bananas, split them in 
 halves lengthwise, dust in sugar, roll in melted butter, 
 and cook till brown in a spider over the fire, or in a 
 roasting pan in a hot oven. 
 
 To Saute Salsify. — Boil the salsify in a small quan- 
 tity of water, drain, dry off, and mash. To half a pint 
 of mashed salsify add a teaspoonful of butter and season 
 to taste with salt and pepper. Form into cakes, cover 
 with Q.'g'g batter and cracker crumbs, and brown in clari- 
 fied butter. 
 
 To Saute Parsnips. — Boil in a large quantity of water 
 until tender, split in halves or in slices, season with salt 
 and pepper, and brown in clarified butter ; or mash, 
 form into cakes, and cook like salsify. 
 
 To Saute Lamb Chops. — Remove the outer skin 
 from the chops, trim them neatly, lay on a smoking 
 hot spider, brown the under side, then turn them over 
 in the spider. When they are brown on both sides 
 drain all the grease from the spider, season to taste with 
 salt and pepper, add a small piece of butter and a table- 
 spoonful of hot water, cover the spider closely, shove 
 back on the range, and let stand for five minutes, then 
 serve. Saute mutton chops in the same manner. 
 
 To Saute Veal Chops. — Cut the chops an inch thick 
 from the ribs or loin, remove the outer skin, dust lightly 
 with pulverized sugar, season with salt and pepper, and 
 dredge with flour. Have a spoonful of hot clarified 
 butter in a spider over the fire, lay in the chops, brown 
 the under side, and turn them over in the spider. When 
 brown on both sides, cover the spider closely, shove it 
 to the back of the range, let the chops simmer ten min- 
 
Frying. 151 
 
 utes, then lift them to a warm platter. Add a table- 
 spoonful of sweet milk to the gravy in the skillet, stir 
 well, and strain over the chops. 
 
 To Saute Pork Chops. — Season with sugar, salt, and 
 pepper, the same as veal, and cook in a similar man- 
 ner if the chops are lean ; if they are fat, cook like lamb 
 chops. 
 
 To Saute Tough Beefsteak. — Prepare, cook, and 
 serve like veal chops, omitting the sugar. This method 
 of cooking a tough beefsteak will make it tender and 
 palatable. 
 
 To Saute Salisbury Steak. — Chop or grind lean 
 round steak very fine, form into "cakes, like sausage, 
 dust with flour, and brown on both sides in clarified 
 butter on a griddle or in a spider, lift to a warm platter, 
 and season with salt, pepper, and butter. 
 
 To Saute Hamburg Steak. — To a pint of meat 
 chopped or ground as for Salisbury steak add a table- 
 spoonful of finely minced onion, or a teaspoonful of 
 sage, thyme, or summer savory, form into cakes, and 
 cook the same as Salisbury steak. 
 
 Either Salisbury or Hamburg steak may be cooked 
 by covering the bottom of a greased spider about half 
 an inch thick with the chopped meat, and, when nicely 
 browned, folding like an omelet, and turning upon a 
 warm platter. 
 
 To Saute Chicken. — Separate the joints of the 
 chicken, and cut into pieces a suitable size for serving, 
 season with salt and pepper, and brown in the spider in 
 clarified butter or the drippings obtained from salt pork 
 or breakfast bacon. When nicely browned cover the 
 
152 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 spider closely, shove to the back of the range, and let 
 the chicken simmer ten or fifteen minutes, then lift to a 
 warm platter. If gravy be desired, add a spoonful of 
 flour to the fat in the spider, mix well, pour in half a 
 pint of sweet cream, milk, or water, season to taste with 
 salt and pepper, and serve in a tureen. Breakfast 
 bacon, or thin, crisp slices of pork, may be served with 
 chicken. 
 
 To Saute Prairie Chicken. — Prepare and cook like 
 chicken. Currant or grape jelly is suitable to serve 
 with prairie chicken, quail, wild duck, and venison. 
 
 Grouse and quail are sauted in the same manner as 
 prairie chicken. 
 
 To Saute Scollops. — Pour boiling water over the scol- 
 lops and let them remain in it five minutes. Drain and 
 dry on a towel. Sprinkle with pepper and salt, roll in 
 flour, and saut€ in clarified butter in a spider. 
 
 To Saute Soft-shell Crabs. — Remove the loose shell 
 of the crabs and the spongy substance on both sides of 
 the upper shell. Sprinkle the crabs with salt and pep- 
 per, roll them in flour, and saut6 till nicely brown in a 
 little clarified butter in a spider. Soft-shell crabs should 
 be browned on both sides. 
 
 To Saute Calf's Brains. — Separate the prepared 
 brains into pieces about the size of an oyster, sprinkle 
 with salt and pepper, roll in flour, and cook until nicely 
 brown on both sides, in a little clarified butter, in a 
 spider. 
 
 To Saute Rabbit or Squirrel. — Prepare and cook like 
 chicken, but add a little minced parsley to the seasoning. 
 
 To Saute Fish — Remove the head, tail, and fins, also 
 
Frying, 153 
 
 the bones if desired, cut the fish crosswise in sHces a 
 suitable size for serving, season with salt and pepper, 
 roll in white corn-meal, or meal and flour mixed, and 
 cook in the drippings from breakfast bacon or salt pork. 
 Serve the bacon or pork with the fish. As great heat 
 as the fish will bear without burning is essential to de- 
 velop its finest flavor. Clarified butter can be used in 
 place of bacon or pork drippings, if preferred. 
 
 To Saute Oysters. — Drain the oysters in a colander 
 or on a sieve, season with salt and pepper, roll in white 
 corn-meal or crumbs, and brown quickly in a little clari- 
 fied butter in a spider. Serve on a warm platter, gar- 
 nished with lemon points. 
 
 To Saute Corn Oysters. — To half a pint of sweet 
 corn, cut from the cob or canned, add salt and pepper 
 to taste, three tablespoonfuls of sweet cream, one round- 
 ing tablespoonful of flour sifted in, and the beaten white 
 of an egg. Stir lightly with a fork. Have two table- 
 spoonfuls of clarified butter smoking hot in a spider over 
 the fire. Put a tablespoonful at a time of the mixture 
 in the spider until it is filled, without the spoonfuls 
 touching each other, then with a broad-bladed knife or 
 a spoon gently press each spoonful into the shape of an 
 oyster. Let brown on the lower side, turn over in the 
 spider, and let brown on the other side, then lift to a 
 warm platter. Do not pile on top of each other. 
 
 To Saute Hominy. — Slighdy soften a pint of cold 
 boiled hominy, either coarse or fine, by warming in a 
 sauce-pan with two or three tablespoonfuls of milk. Put 
 two tablespoonfuls of clarified butter in a spider, and 
 when hot put in the hominy, press it against the bottom 
 
154 "^^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 of the spider with a spoon, let it cook slowly until nicely- 
 browned on the under side, then fold like an omelet, and 
 serve on a warm platter. 
 
 To Saute Hash. — Mix together a half pint of cold 
 cooked fresh meat, or corned beef hashed, and half a 
 pint of cold hashed potato. The fresh meat may be 
 either broiled, roasted, boiled, or stewed, and the pota- 
 toes either boiled or baked. Season the mixture to taste 
 with salt and pepper, moisten with four tablespoonfuls 
 of broth, gravy, milk, or cream, brown in a spider, 
 with two tablespoonfuls of butter, fold like an omelet, 
 and serve on a warm platter garnished with breakfast 
 bacon. Serve with it sour baked or stewed apples. 
 
 To Saute Fish Cakes. — Mix together half a pint of 
 boiled codfish freed from bones and skin, half a pint of 
 mashed, boiled potato, two tablespoonfuls of sweet milk, 
 and one tablespoonful of butter. Season to taste with 
 salt and pepper, form into cakes half an inch thick, and 
 brown in a spider in hot butter, or the drippings of salt 
 pork or breakfast bacon. 
 
 To Saute Sausage. — Form the prepared sausage 
 meat into small cakes half an inch in thickness. Lay in 
 a spider or on a griddle, without grease, and as soon as 
 the under side is browned turn over and brown the up- 
 per side, then cover the spider, shove it to the back of 
 the range, and let the sausage simmer five minutes. To 
 cook sausage in skins, pierce the skins in several places 
 with a skewer or fork, put in a spider, add a few spoon- 
 fuls of boiling water, cover closely, simmer gently for 
 twenty minutes, then remove the cover and let the 
 sausage become brown before serving it. 
 
Frying. 155 
 
 To Saute Calf's Liver.— Remove the skin from the 
 liver, cut in slices half an inch in thickness, soak in 
 salted cold water half an hour, dry on a towel, dust lightly 
 with pepper and freely with flour, and cook gently in a 
 spider in a little clarified butter, or drippings from salt 
 pork or breakfast bacon, until thoroughly done. Serve 
 crisp slices of breakfast bacon or salt pork with the 
 liver. 
 
CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 SICK-ROOM COOKERY. 
 
 Cookery for invalids and sick-room cookery, as in- 
 dicating a particular kind of cookery, are misleading 
 terms, if not gross misnomers. Nearly all articles of 
 food that are suitable for people in ordinary health are 
 suitable, under certain conditions, for invalids at some 
 periods of their sickness or convalescence. For the 
 principles that govern the scientific preparation of food 
 apply in all cases — whether the food be prepared for 
 invalids or for persons in robust health. The province 
 of a physician is to prescribe the articles of diet best 
 adapted to the special needs of each patient. To pre- 
 pare those articles according to the most approved culi- 
 nary methods is the duty of the nurse. Therefore, to 
 be a good nurse one must understand the principles of 
 cookery and be able to apply them practically in the 
 preparation of such articles as are prescribed by the 
 physician. 
 
 There are, however, a number of simple gruels, bev- 
 erages, and toasts, seldom relished by people in health, 
 that are craved by invalids, and may be beneficial to 
 them. Most of these are permissible in all sick rooms, 
 and can be used, at suitable times, by a judicious nurse 
 without consulting a physician or without fear of their 
 proving detrimental to the patient. To indicate the gen- 
 
 156 
 
Sick- Room Cookery. 157 
 
 eral principles underlying the preparation of such articles 
 of invalid diet a few formulas are given : 
 
 Corn-meal Gruel. — To one quart of boiling water, 
 slightly salted, add one fourth of a cup of corn-meal, wet 
 with a fourth of a cup of cold water. Boil the mixture 
 rapidly for a few minutes in a granite- ware sauce-pan, 
 then let it simmer for an hour and a half, or until 
 thoroughly cooked. 
 
 Oatmeal Gruel. — Into one quart of boiling water, 
 slightly salted, sprinkle slowly, stirring meanwhile, one 
 fourth of a cup of oatmeal, and cook slowly two hours 
 in a granite-ware sauce-pan or a double boiler. 
 
 Gruels may be made from rolled wheat, barley, and 
 some other cereals in a similar manner. 
 
 Farina Gruel. — To one quart of boiling water, slightly 
 salted, add one tablespoonful of farina and cook slowly in 
 a granite-ware sauce-pan or a double boiler three quar- 
 ters of an hour. Gruel can be made of farinose in the 
 same manner. All gruels may be strained through a 
 fine hair sieve, or a piece of muslin, if it is desirable to 
 remove the particles of grain that may be in them. 
 
 Gruels may be served with or without cream or milk ; 
 and, if desired, the milk or cream may be added to them 
 just before they are removed from the fire. 
 
 Rice Gruel. — To one quart of boiling water, salted to 
 taste, add a quarter of a cup of prepared rice, and cook 
 slowly in a sauce-pan an hour and a half 
 
 White Flour Gruel. — To a quart of boiling water, 
 slightly salted, add half a cup of white flour wet with a 
 quarter of a cup of cold water, and cook slowly in a 
 sauce-pan for an hour. 
 
158 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Browned Flour Gruel. — Brown flour by placing it 
 in a shallow pan in the oven and stirring occasionally 
 until it is scorched to a uniform brown color. Then 
 prepare the same as white flour gruel. 
 
 Gruels may be made from graham, whole wheat, 
 peeled wheat, gluten, or any other brand of flour, in a 
 similar manner. Gruels made of farina, farinose, rice, 
 or flour of any kind are richer in flavor when made with 
 equal portions of sweet milk and water ; and when so 
 made it is better to add the milk just before removing 
 the gruel from the fire. When equal quantities of milk 
 and water are to be used in preparing gruels only half 
 the quantity of water mentioned in the formulas should 
 be used. 
 
 Irish Moss Gruel. — Soak a small handful of Irish 
 mgss for five minutes in a quantity of cold water. Rinse 
 thoroughly, put into a pint of milk or water, or equal 
 quantities of milk and water, and let stand where it will 
 be very hot, but will not boil, for fifteen or twenty min- 
 utes, then strain, season to taste with salt or sugar, as 
 desired, and serve. 
 
 All sea moss gruels are made in a similar manner. 
 
 Crust Coffee. — Brown gradually, until a rich dark 
 color, two or three crusts or slices of bread, put them in 
 a warm pitcher, add a pinch of salt, pour a quart of 
 boiling water over them, and cover the pitcher closely. 
 This makes a very refreshing drink for invalids. It is 
 sometimes called ' * toast tea. ' ' 
 
 Toasted corn-bread or parched corn or wheat may 
 also be used for making drinks for invalids. 
 
 Apple Water. — Bake before the fire two or three 
 
Sick- Room Cookery. 159 
 
 medium-sized sour apples until soft and richly browned. 
 Put them in a warm pitcher or bowl, add a pinch of salt 
 and a little sugar, if desired, mash and break them until 
 the seeds are released from the cores, then pour a quart 
 of boiling water over them. Cover the pitcher, let 
 stand five minutes, then strain off the water. Apple 
 water can be used either warm or cold. 
 
 A great variety of refreshing drinks may be made for 
 invalids by pouring boiling water over crushed fruit, add- 
 ing a dust of salt and sugar to taste, and stirring well 
 together. Such heavily flavored and comparatively 
 sweet fruits as bananas, raspberries, etc. , make a much 
 more refreshing drink when a small quantity of lemon 
 juice is added to the fruit. Very acceptable drinks may 
 also be prepared from such dried or evaporated fruits as 
 apples, peaches, plums, apricots, prunes, prunellas, and 
 raisins by soaking the prepared fruit a few hours, and 
 then cooking it gently until the water is of the desired 
 flavor. All fruit-juice preparations for invalids may be 
 served either hot, warm, or cold to suit the taste, or fancy 
 of the invalid. 
 
 Egg Whips. — A great variety of palatable and nutri- 
 tious drinks for invalids may be prepared by combining 
 whipped eggs with cream, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, fruit 
 juices, fruit syrups, flavoring extracts, etc. 
 
 Egg Nog without Wine or Brandy. — Put the yolk 
 of a fresh ^^^ in a small bowl or cup, add a teaspoonful 
 of lemon juice, a tablespoonful of sugar, a grating of 
 nutmeg, and five drops each of ginger and lemon ex- 
 tract. Whip until light and thick. Beat the white of 
 the ^^g to a stiff froth, and mix with the beaten yolk, 
 
i6o The Art of Cooheiy. 
 
 then add three tablespoonfuls of cream, whipped or un- 
 whipped, and serve. 
 
 Egg Whips with Syrup. — Put the yolk of a fresh 
 ^g<g in a small bowl or cup, add a teaspoonful of cold 
 water, and whip very light and thick. Mix with it the 
 white of the q.%^ beaten stiff and a tablespoonful of any 
 fruit syrup preferred, then add three tablespoonfuls of 
 cream, milk, or ice water, and serve. A tablespoonful 
 of cold coffee, cocoa, or chocolate may be used in place 
 of a fruit syrup ; or the ^^% may be whipped as directed, 
 and sugar, orange, lemon, vanilla, nutmeg, or any flavor- 
 ing extract desired be added, with cream, milk, or water 
 in the proportion liked. 
 
 Lemonade No. i. — To half a cup of lemon juice add 
 two cups of sugar, or sugar to taste, four cups of water, 
 a quarter of the peel of one lemon in thin strips, and a 
 pinch of salt. Stir well and serve. 
 
 Lemonade No. 2. — To four cups of freshly boiled 
 water add one and a half cups of sugar, and a dust of 
 salt, boil two minutes, strain upon half a cup of lemon 
 juice and two or three strips of lemon peel. Serve hot 
 or cold. 
 
 Lemonade No. 3. — Omit the lemon peel and prepare 
 like Lemonade No. 2. When cold add a cup each of 
 crushed strawberries and flaked or grated pine-apple. 
 
 Orangeade. — To one cup of orange juice add a cup of 
 sugar, the juice of one lemon, a pinch of salt, a quarter 
 of the peel of one orange cut in very thin strips, or half 
 a teaspoonful of orange extract, and four cups of water. 
 
 Strawberryade. — To one cup of strawberry juice add 
 the juice of one lemon, one cup of sugar, or sugar to 
 
Sick- Room Cookery. 1 6 1 
 
 taste, a pinch of salt, and four cups of water. Stir until 
 the sugar dissolves, then serve. 
 
 Pine-Appleade. — To one cup of pine-apple syrup or 
 juice add the juice of one lemon, a pinch of salt, sugar 
 to taste, and three cups of water. Stir until the sugar 
 dissolves, then serve. Half a cup of pine-apple juice or 
 syrup may be added to the strawberryade, or half a cup 
 of strawberry juice to the pine-appleade. Other berries 
 and fruits may be used in a similar manner for making 
 palatable drinks for invalids. 
 
 Cocoa No. I. — Put a teaspoonful of cocoa and a tea- 
 spoonful of granulated sugar into a heated cup, mix well 
 together, add sweet cream to taste, fill the cup with boil- 
 ing water, and serve. 
 
 Cocoa No. 2. — Put four teaspoonfuls of cocoa into a 
 heated cup, and pour upon it, gradually, stirring mean- 
 while, one cup of boiling water. When perfectly mixed, 
 pour into a chocolate pot, add one cup of boiling water 
 and two cups of hot milk. Beat with a chocolate whip 
 until light and foamy. Serve with whipped cream. 
 
 Cocoa No. 3. — Prepare like Cocoa No. 2, but just be- 
 fore whipping the mixture add to it a fresh ^^^, beaten 
 very light, then whip and serve. 
 
 Chocolate. — If the chocolate is finely grated, prepare 
 the same as cocoa. If it is coarsely grated, mix with the 
 quantity of water to be used, and simmer in a sauce-pan 
 until perfectly smooth before adding hot milk. 
 
 Shells. — Put a quarter of a cup of cocoa shells into a 
 sauce-pan, add two cups of boiling water, and let stand 
 where it will keep hot, but not boil, for fifteen minutes. 
 Serve with either hot milk or whipped cream. 
 
1 62 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Beefsteak Toast. — Toast thin slices of bread until a 
 nice brown color, then moisten them with the juice 
 pressed from rare broiled beefsteak. Serve hot. 
 
 Broth Toast. — Dip slices of toast into very hot, well- 
 salted chicken, beef, or mutton broth, and serve. 
 
 Frizzled beef or creamed codfish may be served on 
 toast ; or the beef and fish may be strained out and the 
 slices of toast moistened with the cream gravy. 
 
 Oyster Toast. — Cover thin slices of hot, dry toast 
 with stewed, broiled, or panned oysters until they are 
 well saturated with the juices, then remove the oysters 
 and serve the toast. 
 
 Fruit Toast. — Spread over thin slices of buttered toast 
 a small quantity of freshly cooked fruit, sweetened to 
 taste. In using berries, if the seeds are objectionable, 
 the juice alone may be used to moisten and flavor the 
 toast. 
 
 Blackberry Mush — To a quart of ripe blackberries 
 add a pint of water and cook in a sauce-pan until the 
 berries are soft. Stir to a smooth paste three fourths of 
 a cup of flour and half a cup of cold water, and add to 
 the cooked berries in the sauce-pan. Let the mixture 
 simmer five minutes, or until the flour is well cooked, 
 stirring constantly meanwhile, then sweeten with three 
 fourths of a cup of sugar. Serve cold with sweet 
 cream. 
 
 Mush can be made of dewberries, strawberries, or 
 raspberries in a similar manner. 
 
CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 CANNING, PRESERVING, AND PICKLING. 
 
 Our groceries are so crowded with the products of 
 canning estabUshments that the canning, preserving, and 
 pickHng of fruits and vegetables is almost a neglected 
 art in the average family. But as nearly all fruits and 
 vegetables are finer flavored and give better satisfaction 
 when properly canned, preserved, pickled, or made into 
 jams and jellies at home than when done at canning 
 establishments, a few general directions are given in 
 regard to doing such work, and the principles that 
 underlie the canning, preserving, and pickling of various 
 fruits and vegetables are illustrated by a number of 
 select and well-tested formulas. 
 
 General Directions. — To retain the color and flavor of 
 fruit or vegetables most effectually in canning or preserv- 
 ing — and to do this should be a prominent aim — the 
 fruit or vegetables should be cooked slowly, in small 
 quantities, in granite-ware or porcelain-lined vessels, 
 and be stirred with a wooden or a silver spoon. Hard, 
 tough fruit that is to be canned or preserved should be 
 cooked in water until tender before any sugar is added ; 
 but soft fruit should be cooked in a syrup made from 
 sugar and water, or sugar and the juice of the kind of 
 fruit to be canned or preserved. It is not necessary to 
 use sugar in canning fruit, as nearly all fruits, when 
 
 163 
 
164 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 properly canned, will keep perfectly without it. Some 
 fruits retain their color and flavor best when canned with 
 sugar, others when canned without it. If fruit is canned 
 without sugar, it can be sweetened to taste at the time 
 of serving. The use or non-use of sugar is therefore an 
 open question and largely a matter of individual opinion. 
 
 All canned fruits and vegetables should be put up 
 boiling hot, in air-tight cans ; and all fruits and vegetables 
 put up in glass — whether canned or preserved — should 
 be wrapped in paper to exclude the light, and be stored 
 in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 Many seedy fruits, such as strawberries, blackberries, 
 etc., retain their color and flavor better when crushed 
 and made into jams than when kept whole and canned 
 or preserved. In making jams only the quantity of 
 sugar that will render them most palatable need be used ; 
 but in making preserves it is often necessary to use an 
 equal weight of sugar and fruit. 
 
 To Can Strawberries. — Crush one fourth of the 
 berries selected for canning, strain out the juice, and put 
 it in a preserving kettle. To each pint of juice add one 
 pint of granulated sugar and one half pint of water, let 
 simmer twenty minutes, and remove the scum. Fill 
 glass cans with the remaining berries and set on racks or 
 rests in a boiler containing sufficient warm water to cover 
 the racks. Fill the cans of fruit with the prepared 
 syrup and screw on the caps loosely. After all the cans 
 have been filled, add hot water to that in the boiler until 
 it comes half way to the top of the cans, put the lid on 
 the boiler, let the water boil half an hour, then screw the 
 caps tightly on the cans, cover them with a towel to 
 
Cannings Preservings and Pickling. 165 
 
 protect them from exposure to cold air, remove from the 
 boiler, and set away to cool. When perfectly cold 
 tighten the caps, if necessary, wrap the cans in paper, 
 and keep in a cool, dry closet. Other berries may be 
 canned in a similar manner, either with or without sugar. 
 
 To Can Peaches. — Halve and pare the peaches intended 
 for canning, put them in glass cans, and set the cans on 
 racks in a boiler as directed for canning strawberries. Fill 
 the cans of fruit with a syrup made by adding one pound of 
 granulated sugar to each pint of water used and letting 
 it simmer five minutes, put on the caps loosely, cover 
 the boiler, let the fruit cook half an hour, if the peaches 
 are soft, an hour if they are hard, then screw the caps 
 tightly on the jars, and proceed as directed for canning 
 strawberries. 
 
 To Can Pine- Apples — Pare the pine-apples, flake from 
 the cores with a fork, fill heated glass cans with the pre- 
 pared fruit, and set them on a rack in a boiler. Make 
 a syrup by cooking together, five minutes, one pound of 
 sugar to each pint of water. Remove the scum from 
 the syrup, fill the cans containing the fruit with the hot 
 syrup, screw on the caps loosely, cook half an hour, 
 tighten the caps, and remove the cans from the boiler. 
 When the cans are cold again tighten the caps, wrap in 
 paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Can Quinces. — Quarter, pare, and core the quinces. 
 Put the prepared fruit into a preserving kettle, cover 
 with water, simmer until tender enough to pierce with a 
 straw, then put into glass cans and set in a warm place. 
 To each pint of the water in which the quinces were 
 cooked add half a pound of granulated sugar, simmer 
 
1 66 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 five minutes, remove the scum, fill the cans containing 
 the ft-uit with the syrup, screw on the caps, and when 
 cold wrap in paper and put in a dry closet. 
 
 To Can Pears. — If the pears are ripe and soft can like 
 peaches ; if they are hard can like quinces. 
 
 To Can Plums. — Pierce the plums with a fork, or gir- 
 dle them with a knife. If they are very acid use three 
 fourths of a pound of sugar to each pound of plums, if 
 very mild use but a quarter of a pound of sugar to each 
 pound of plums. Put the sugar, with half a pint of 
 v/ater to each pound of sugar, into a preserving kettle, 
 simmer five minutes, remove the scum, then put the 
 plums into the syrup and cook fifteen minutes, or until 
 the fruit is soft and looks cooked. Stir the plums fre- 
 quently while cooking, and when soft put them in heated 
 glass cans, filling the cans quite full, screw the caps on 
 tightly, and after the cans are cold wrap in paper and set 
 away. 
 
 To Can Cherries No. i. — Fill glass cans with large, 
 ripe cherries and set them on racks in a boiler partly filled 
 with warm water. Make a syrup, using one pound of 
 sugar to each pint of water, and after it has simmered 
 five minutes fill the cans containing the fruit with it, 
 screw -on the caps lightly, cook half an hour, then tighten 
 the caps and remove the cans. When cold tighten the 
 caps again, wrap the cans in paper, and set in a dry, cool 
 closet. 
 
 To Can Cherries No. 2. — Pit the cherries, put them 
 in a preserving kettle, add half a cup of water to each 
 quart of cherries, cover closely, heat to boiling point, 
 simmer ten minutes, then add sugar to taste. If the 
 
Canning, Preservings and Pickling. 167 
 
 cherries are sweet a quarter of a pound of sugar to each 
 pound of cherries will be sufficient, if they are very 
 sour three quarters of a pound of sugar will be required 
 to each pound of cherries. After adding the sugar cook 
 until it dissolves and the fruit boils, then fill heated 
 cans with it, screw the caps on the cans, let them cool, 
 wrap in paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Can Corn. — Cut the corn from the cob and pack 
 it, as compactly as possible, in glass cans. Screw the 
 caps loosely on the cans, set them on a rack in a boiler, 
 add warm water until the cans are half covered, put the 
 lid on the boiler, and cook the corn three hours, then 
 screw down the caps on the cans and remove them from 
 the boiler. When cold tighten the caps, wrap the cans 
 in paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Can Peas. — Fill glass cans, as compactly as possi- 
 ble, with peas. Set the cans on a rack in a boiler, fill 
 with warm water, add a teaspoonful of salt to each 
 quart of peas, screw the caps on the cans loosely, cook 
 an hour, and then proceed as for canning corn. 
 
 To Can Lima Beans. — Cook the beans five minutes in 
 slightly salted water, then drain off the water, pack the 
 beans compactly in glass cans, set the cans on a rack in 
 a boiler, fill them with warm water, add a teaspoonful 
 each of salt and granulated sugar to each quart of beans, 
 screw the caps on the cans loosely, cook an hour, and 
 proceed as for canning corn. 
 
 To Can String Beans. — Follow the directions given 
 for canning lima beans. 
 
 To Can Asparagus — Wash the stalks of asparagus, 
 cut them of the same length, place them, with the tips 
 
1 68 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 upward, compactly, in glass cans, set the cans on a rack 
 in a boiler, fill them with warm water, add a teaspoonful 
 of salt to each quart can of asparagus, screw on the caps 
 loosely, cook half an hour, and proceed as for canning 
 corn. 
 
 To Can Tomatoes No. i — Skin the tomatoes, put 
 them in a preserving kettle, cook for half an hour, if 
 in small quantities, longer if in large quantities, dip off the 
 water occasionally while the tomatoes are cooking, as a 
 pint of water can be removed from two quarts of toma- 
 toes and their quality and flavor be greatly improved 
 thereby. When sufficiently cooked fill heated glass cans 
 with the hot tomato, screw the caps on the cans, set 
 aside till cold, then tighten the caps, wrap the cans in 
 paper, and keep in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Can Tomatoes No. 2. — Fill heated glass cans com- 
 pactly with smooth, medium-sized tomatoes that are not 
 over-ripe. Fill the cans with boiling water, add a table- 
 spoonful of salt to each quart of tomatoes, screw on the 
 caps tightly, let stand till cold, then tighten the caps on 
 the cans, wrap in paper, and put in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Can Tomatoes No. 3 — Remove the skins from 
 smooth, medium-sized tomatoes as directed on page 26, 
 and fill heated glass cans compactly with them. Fill the 
 cans with boiling water, add two whole cloves and a 
 tablespoonful each of sugar and salt to each quart of to- 
 matoes, screw the caps tightly on the cans, let them 
 stand until cold, then tighten the caps, wrap the cans in 
 paper, and put in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Preserve Peaches. — Cut a pound of select peaches 
 in halves, remove from the stones, and pare. Put a 
 
Cannings Preserving, and Pickling. 169 
 
 pound of cut-loaf or granulated sugar, a pint of water, 
 and the pits from half the peach stones, into a preserv- 
 ing kettle and cook until the sugar is dissolved and the 
 syrup boils, then put enough of the prepared peaches 
 into the kettle to cover the surface of the syrup. Sim- 
 mer gently, turning the fruit over occasionally until 
 cooked and transparent, then put in glasses, filling them 
 three quarters full. After all the peaches have been 
 cooked and put in glasses in this manner simmer the 
 syrup two or three minutes, skim and pour over the 
 fruit in the glasses, cover securely, wrap in paper when 
 cold, and keep in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Preserve Pine-Apples. — Pare the pine-apples, cut 
 them in slices half an inch thick, and divide the slices 
 into halves or quarters. Make a syrup by using one 
 pound of sugar to each half pint of water, boil, skim, 
 and then proceed as directed for preserving peaches. 
 
 To Preserve Quinces — Cut the quinces in halves or 
 quarters according to size, remove the seeds, and pare 
 and core the quinces. Put the prepared fruit and the 
 seeds into a preserving kettle, barely cover with hot 
 water, and simmer very gently until the fruit can be 
 pierced with a straw, then carefully remove from the 
 water and lay upon plates. Measure the water in which 
 the quinces cooked and to each pint of water add a 
 pound of sugar. Cook in a preserving kettle until the 
 sugar dissolves and the syrup boils, then cook the 
 quinces in the syrup, as directed for preserving peaches. 
 
 To Preserve Pears. — Prepare, cook, and preserve as 
 directed for preserving quinces if the pears are of a hard 
 variety, as for preserving peaches if of a soft variety. 
 
lyo The Art of Cookery, 
 
 To Preserve Plums. — With a sharp knife cut through 
 the skin of each plum and girdle it. Put three pounds 
 of the girdled plums and one pint of water into a pre- 
 serving kettle, cover, and simmer gently ten minutes, or 
 until the plums are soft, add three pounds of granulated 
 sugar and stir and cook gently ten minutes more, or 
 until the fruit looks clear and cooked, then put in cans, 
 cover closely, wrap in paper, and store in a cool, dry 
 place. 
 
 To Preserve Cherries. — To three pounds of pitted 
 cherries add the juice squeezed from the cherries in 
 pitting and one pint of water. Cook and preserve as 
 directed for preserving plums. 
 
 To Preserve Strawberries No. i. — From two pounds 
 of firm, dark-red strawberries pick out a pound of the 
 smallest berries, put them in an earthen bowl with one 
 pound of granulated sugar and mash with a wooden 
 spoon or a pestle until perfectly crushed and well mixed. 
 Let them stand in a cold place for half an hour, then 
 strain through a strong, thin cloth and press out all the 
 juice. Put the juice in a granite-ware or porcelain-lined 
 kettle or sauce-pan and simmer gently twenty minutes, 
 removing the scum. After the large berries have been 
 washed and drained, roll them carefully on several thick- 
 nesses of cheese-cloth so as to dry and not bruise them, 
 and put them carefully Into hot glass cans. Fill the cans 
 perfectly full with the berries and stand them on a folded 
 wet towel in a warm place. Add to the juice, after it 
 has simmered twenty minutes, one pound of rock candy, 
 broken in small pieces, stir gently, with a wooden spoon, 
 until dissolved, then pour the syrup over the berries io 
 
Catiningy Preserving, and Pickling. 171 
 
 the cans. When the cans are completely filled with the 
 syrup, screw on the caps, which should be first heated, 
 cover with a towel, and place where they will cool 
 gradually. When perfectly cold tighten the caps, wrap 
 the cans in paper to exclude the light, store in a cool, 
 dry place, and turn upside down once a week for six or 
 eight weeks. 
 
 To Preserve Strawberries No. 2. — Prepare and cook 
 the syrup as directed for preserving strawberries 
 in formula No. i, adding cut-loaf sugar in place of rock 
 candy. Spread the large berries, after they have been 
 washed, drained, and dried, on deep platters that have 
 been first heated, dip or pour the boiling syrup over 
 them, set in the sunshine, and cover with fine wire net- 
 ting or screens. Press the berries gently under the 
 syrup, or pour the syrup over them, two or three times 
 a day, until jelly begins to form, which will be after an 
 exposure of the mixture to a hot sun for about three 
 days, put into small cans or tumblers, filling them quite 
 full, expose to a bright sunshine until the surface is 
 slightly dried over and a skin formed, then cover closely, 
 wrap in paper, and keep in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 To Preserve Strawberries No. 3. — To two pounds of 
 granulated or cut-loaf sugar add one pint of water and 
 simmer in a sauce-pan five minutes. Have two pounds 
 of large, firm strawberries prepared for cooking. Put 
 enough of them into the syrup to cover the surface, sim- 
 mer very gently, shaking the sauce-pan occasionally to 
 keep the berries submerged in the syrup, until they look 
 cooked and transparent, then skim them from the syrup 
 and put into glasses. Cook and dispose of all the ber- 
 
172 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 ries in a similar manner, filling each of the glasses 
 three fourths full of the cooked fruit, then simmer the 
 syrup until about the consistency of ordinary syrup, 
 fill the glasses containing the berries quite full with it, 
 cover closely, wrap in paper, and store in a cool, dry 
 place. 
 
 To Preserve Raspberries. — Large red raspberries can 
 be preserved according to either of the formulas given 
 for preserving strawberries ; but, whichever formula is 
 followed, the juice of a lemon should be added to in- 
 crease the acidity of the syrup. 
 
 Raspberry Jam. — From two quarts of red raspberries 
 pick out one third of the smallest berries. Crush, press 
 out the juice, and strain it. Crush the remainder of the 
 berries, put them, with the strained juice, into a porce- 
 lain-lined kettle, and, after they begin to boil, simmer 
 gently for twenty minutes, stirring frequently, then add 
 a pound and a half of granulated sugar, simmer five 
 minutes more, remove the scum that rises, take the 
 kettle from the fire, put the jam in glasses, cover closely, 
 wrap in paper, and set in a cool, dry closet. 
 
 Strawberry Jam. — From two quarts of strawberries 
 pick out one third of the smaller ones. Crush, press 
 out the juice, and strain it from the crushed fruit. Crush 
 the remainder of the two quarts of berries, put them, with 
 the juice and one pound of granulated sugar, into a 
 preserving kettle, simmer twenty minutes, add another 
 pound of sugar, and as soon as the sugar is dissolved 
 and the fruit begins to boil, remove the kettle from the 
 fire, put the jam into glasses, cover closely, wrap in 
 paper, and put in a cool, dry place. 
 
Canning, Preserving, and Pickling. 173 
 
 If the strawberries are not very acid omit half a pound 
 of the sugar. 
 
 Blackberry Jam. — Prepare and cook the berries as 
 directed for raspberry jam, using only one pound of 
 sugar to two quarts of blackberries. 
 
 Currant Jam. — Prepare and cook the currants as di- 
 rected for raspberry jam. Or use two thirds currants 
 and one third red raspberries for making the jam. 
 
 Pine-Apple Marmalade. — Pare and grate the pine- 
 apples. Put the grated pine-apple into a preserving 
 ketde, add a pound of granulated sugar for each pound 
 of pine-apple, stir with a wooden spoon, and cook fif- 
 teen minutes, or until transparent. Put in cans, cover 
 closely, wrap in paper, and put in a cool, dry place. 
 
 Orange Marmalade. — Take twelve oranges, six 
 lemons, ten pounds of granulated sugar, and a gallon of 
 cold water. Scrub the oranges and lemons with a stif^ 
 brush and warm water, and wipe them dry. Then cut 
 them crosswise with a sharp knife, in as thin slices as 
 possible, and reject the end pieces. Pick out the seeds, 
 put them in a bowl, and pour over them a pint of water. 
 Pour the balance of the water over the sliced fruit, and 
 set both seed and fruit aside and let soak for thirty-six 
 hours. At the end of that time put the sliced fruit, with 
 the water in which it soaked, into a preserving ketde, 
 drain the water from the seeds into it, and cook slowly 
 for two hours, then add the sugar and cook for another 
 hour, or until the mixture jellies. Stir occasionally 
 during the last hour's cooking. Put the marmalade 
 while warm into tumblers or fruit jars, cover closely, 
 and keep in a cool place. 
 
174 ^'^^ -^^^ ^f Cookery, 
 
 Grape Marmalade. — To four quarts of grapes, picked 
 before they are fully ripe, add one quart of water, cook 
 till soft, then rub through a sieve. To each pint of 
 pulp add a pound of granulated sugar, stir while cook- 
 ing, and cook twenty minutes. Put in cans and cover 
 closely. 
 
 Marmalade may be prepared in a similar manner from 
 peaches, plums, gooseberries, and all pulpy fruits. 
 
 Strawberry Jelly. — Put three pints of strawberry 
 juice into a preserving kettle, add one pound of cut-loaf 
 sugar, simmer twenty minutes, add two more pounds of 
 sugar, simmer five minutes, and remove from the fire. 
 Put the jelly in glasses, cover securely, and keep in a 
 cool, dry place. 
 
 Raspberry Jelly. — Simmer three pints of raspberry 
 juice twenty minutes, add two and a quarter pounds of 
 sugar, simmer five minutes, or until it will jelly when 
 cooled on a plate, then remove from the fire, fill into 
 glasses, cover closely, and set away. 
 
 Blackberry Jelly. — Prepare and cook as directed for 
 raspberry jelly, using half a pound of sugar to each pint 
 of juice ; or, if preferred, add the juice of a lemon to 
 every three pints of blackberry juice and use a pound of 
 sugar to each pint of liquid. 
 
 Apple Jelly. — Select very tart, red-skinned apples, 
 wash, remove all imperfect spots, and cut in quarters. 
 Put the quarters into a preserving kettle and cook gently 
 for half an hour, or until tender, then put into a jelly 
 bag and let the juice drip into an earthen bowl. Do not 
 squeeze the fruit. Put three pints of the apple juice 
 into a preserving kettle, simmer twenty minutes, add 
 
Canning, Preserving, and Pickling. 175 
 
 three pounds of granulated sugar, simmer five minutes, 
 then remove from the fire and put in glasses. When 
 cold cover closely, and keep in a cool, dry place, 
 
 Crab-Apple Jelly. — Follow the directions given for 
 making apple jelly. 
 
 Quince Jelly. — Follow the directions for making apple 
 jelly, but cook the prepared fruit a greater length of 
 time. 
 
 Currant Jelly. — Select currants that are not over- 
 ripe. Pick from the stems, crush in small quantities, 
 and strain out the juice. Allow one pound of cut-loaf 
 or granulated sugar to each pint of juice. Put three 
 pints of juice at a time into a preserving kettle, let it 
 simmer gently for twenty minutes, removing the scum 
 occasionally, then add the sugar, stir occasionally, and 
 as soon as it dissolves and the jelly boils remove from 
 the fire and put in glasses, cover closely, and set in a 
 cool, dry closet. 
 
 Grape Jelly. — Select grapes that are nof over-ripe. 
 Pick from the stems, put into a preserving kettle, add 
 half a pint of water for each pound of grapes, simmer 
 till soft, then put the cooked fruit into a jelly bag and 
 let the juice drip into a bowl. Do not squeeze the bag. 
 Put the strained juice into the preserving kettle and 
 simmer twenty minutes. Add a pound of granulated 
 sugar to each pint of juice, simmer five minutes, skim, 
 put into jelly glasses, cover closely, and set in a cool, 
 dry place. 
 
 Pickled Cabbage. — Select crisp, white cabbage and 
 chop it fine. To each quart of chopped cabbage add a 
 tablespoonful each of salt, white mustard seed, and 
 
176 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 sugar, with pepper to taste. Put the mixture in a jar 
 and cover with cold cider vinegar. Scatter half a dozen 
 cloves over the top of the cabbage, cover the jar, and in 
 a few days the pickle will be ready for use. If the 
 vinegar is pure and strong the cabbage will keep almost 
 indefinitely. 
 
 Cold Catsup. — Select firm, ripe tomatoes and scald, 
 cool, and skin them as directed on page 26. Slice the 
 prepared tomatoes in slices a quarter of an inch thick 
 and dice the slices. Put on a large platter and to each 
 quart of diced tomato add a teaspoon of salt, sifting the 
 salt uniformly over the tomato. Place a folded towel 
 under one end of the platter so the water that drains 
 from the tomato may be dipped off. When the tomato 
 is well drained add a cup of finely chopped celery, two 
 tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful 
 of white mustard seed, one of minced onion, half a 
 dozen whole cloves, and pepper to taste. Mix lightly 
 together, put in glass cans, filling them nearly full, cover 
 with cold cider vinegar, screw on the caps tightly, wrap 
 the cans in paper, and set them in a cool, dry place. 
 
 Cucumber Catsup. — Grate six fresh cucumbers and 
 three onions of medium size. Add a teaspoonful of 
 salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cup of 
 vinegar. Mix all well together, bottle, wrap in paper, 
 and put in a cool place. 
 
 Green Tomato Pickle. — Slice together a peck of green 
 tomatoes and a quart of onions, and sprinkle the mix- 
 ture with half a cup of salt. Let stand six or eight 
 hours, drain off the water, put the prepared tomatoes 
 into a preserving kettle, add six quarts of vinegar, three 
 
Cannings Preserving, and Pickling 177 
 
 sweet peppers chopped fine, a quarter of a pound of 
 white mustard seed, and an ounce of whole cloves. 
 Boil slowly three or four hours, stirring frequently, and 
 half an hour before removing from the fire add a pound 
 of sugar. Put in cans or jars, cover securely, and set 
 away. 
 
 Cucumber Pickles. — Fill a jar with small, freshly 
 gathered cucumbers, sprinkle lightly with salt, fill the 
 jar with boiling water, and let stand till cold. Drain the 
 water from the cucumbers, put them in a preserving 
 kettle, cover with equal portions of cider vinegar and 
 water, heat to boiling point, then pour off the liquid. 
 Put the cucumbers in the jar, add three small sweet 
 peppers, half a dozen whole cloves, and a cup of sugar. 
 Cover with cold vinegar and put away. 
 
 Spiced Peaches. — Take seven pounds of peaches, 
 three pounds of sugar, a quart of vinegar, an ounce of 
 cinnamon, and half an ounce of cloves. Make a syrup 
 of the sugar by adding a quart of water, and, when 
 boiling, cook as many of the peaches as the kettle will 
 hold without piling one upon another. Simmer gently, 
 shaking and turning them about until tender and some- 
 what transparent, then remove with a skimmer and 
 place in a jar. Cook all the fruit in this manner, then 
 simmer the syrup until it is thick, add to it the vinegar 
 and spices, simmer five minutes more, pour it over the 
 pickles in a jar, cover, and set them away. 
 
 Spiced Damsons. — Puncture seven pounds of damsons 
 with a fork and lay them in a jar. Heat to boiling one 
 quart of vinegar and four pounds of sugar with spice the 
 same as for peaches. Pour the hot liquid upon the 
 
178 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 plums, cover closely, and let stand for twenty-four hours. 
 Repeat this process every morning for a week. Then 
 heat the fruit with the syrup, simmer for ten minutes, 
 put in jars, cover closely, and set away. 
 
PART IV.-MIXING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The most important departments of cookery are those 
 of mixing and seasoning. And all articles of food that 
 have to be mixed and seasoned, in their preparation for 
 the table, belong legitimately to those departments. For 
 the purpose, however, of showing clearly that the four 
 primary methods of broiling, roasting, boiling, and fry- 
 ing cover all the different ways in which food can be 
 cooked, it has been deemed advisable, in the arrange- 
 ment of this book, to place under those respective 
 heads quite a number of articles that belong, and would 
 otherwise have appeared, under the heads of mixing and 
 seasoning. 
 
 The general name of wetting is given to all liquids 
 used for mixing doughs or batters, whether the liquid 
 used be water, sweet milk, sour milk, buttermilk, cream, 
 or a combination of these liquids, and the proportion of 
 flour required to a given quantity of wetting, for making 
 a certain kind of batter cake or muffin, can only be 
 given approximately, as the quality and condition of the 
 flour affects the character and consistency of the batter 
 in making batter cakes and muffins more materially 
 even than it does that of dough in bread-making. Still, 
 by keeping in mind a few well-established principles, the 
 careful cook will have no difficulty in handling any 
 
 179 
 
i8o The Art of Cookery. 
 
 brand of flour so as to produce satisfactory results, in 
 all kinds of muffins, waffles, griddle cakes, etc. 
 
 These soft mixtures of dough, or batters vary in con- 
 sistency or stiffiiess from one cup of flour for each cup 
 of wetting to two cups of flour for each cup of wetting, 
 but the largest proportion of them are graded between 
 the two extremes, and the most desirable occupy a 
 middle ground, varying little from a cup and a half of 
 flour to each cup of wetting — provided winter or soft 
 wheat flour, which is preferable for all soft doughs and 
 batters, be used. 
 
 But before mixing any of them the eflect that will be 
 produced by the introduction of eggs into such mixtures 
 should be carefully considered. Four medium-sized 
 eggs beaten lightly and mixed with a pint of milk will, 
 when baked, thicken the milk into a custard stiff" 
 enough to retain its form when cold. And by this 
 standard the thickening quality of Q^'g when beaten 
 lightly and mixed with milk may be approximated. If 
 the ^gg be beaten until very light its thickening power 
 diminishes ; but it then contributes materially to the 
 lightness of the mixture. The white of the ^%% is much 
 more valuable for imparting lightness to a batter of soft 
 dough than the yolk, while the latter on account of its 
 richness is most valuable for use in creams, custards, 
 sauces, and puddings. 
 
 The effect of butter on these mixtures is to make 
 them short or tender and to enrich them. If many eggs 
 are used in batter mixtures, butter, or ' * shortening ' ' of 
 some kind, is necessary to counteract the toughening 
 tendency of the eggs. 
 
Introduction. igi 
 
 To make a perfect batter cake or muffin the manner 
 of mixing or putting the ingredients together is equally 
 as important as a careful adjustment of the proportions 
 of those ingredients, and the methods of mixing may 
 with propriety be varied when different proportions of 
 the same ingredients are used. 
 
 It is always best to sift baking powder and salt with 
 the flour, that they may be freed from lumps and equally 
 distributed through it. It is also best to sift the flour 
 just before using it. 
 
 In making a very thin batter the flour should be put 
 in the mixing bowl, and the milk or other wetting added, 
 a portion at a time, so the batter may be well whipped 
 or beaten before being made too thin. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 BREAD-MAKING. 
 
 Bread-making is a neglected art. In hotels, restau- 
 rants, boarding houses, and private families, bad bread 
 is abundant, and good bread seldom found. Every- 
 where bad bread is the rule, good bread the exception. 
 Yet good bread is one of the most nutritious, satisfying, 
 and inexpensive articles of human food, while bad bread 
 is one of the most innutritions, unsatisfying, and ex- 
 pensive. 
 
 The general belief that numerous ingredients and 
 much hard labor are necessary for successful bread- 
 making has no foundation in fact. Bread-making, when 
 the principles are understood, is one of the easiest of 
 culinary processes ; and the only ingredients needed for 
 bread of the choicest quality are flour, yeast, milk, 
 water, and salt. Women will use salt rising, dry yeast 
 cakes, potato balls, yeast foam, and innumerable other 
 ferments to lighten their dough, and supplement them 
 with grease, sugar, alum, vinegar, charcoal, and almost 
 every other conceivable thing, and invariably have bad 
 bread. Yet it seems never to occur to them to use only 
 the proper ingredients. Why do people take such 
 infinite pains to make bad bread? Why, in this 
 enlightened age of the world, should any person of 
 
 ordinary sense want salt rising, dried yeast cakes, 
 
 182 
 
Bread- Making. 183 
 
 potato balls, or any false or putrefactive ferments in 
 bread-making, when compressed yeast or pure home- 
 made yeast is so readily obtainable, and is so superior 
 in all respects for the purpose? Or why should any 
 intelligent person put aught else into dough than flour, 
 yeast, milk, water, and salt, when these ingredients 
 alone produce the very best of bread ? 
 
 In the good old times of which we are so frequently 
 reminded by pessimistic croakers, wheat with a year's 
 accumulation of dirt clinging to it was emptied from a 
 dirty sack into a dirty hopper, crushed by dirty stones 
 into dirty flour, and then mixed with a dirty ferment 
 into grandmother's bread. Was there not, under such 
 conditions, a basis of truth for the then prevalent belief 
 that it was the allotted task of each member of the 
 family to eat his or her peck of dirt ? But those con- 
 ditions have passed away. Through the agency of an 
 improved method of milling, each grain of wheat is 
 carefully brushed free of dirt and furze before it passes 
 under the polished steel or porcelain rollers to be con- 
 verted into flour, and by the aid of science pure yeast is 
 made expressly for family use. Should not such an 
 advance in preparing flour and yeast be followed by a 
 similar advance in making bread ? The flour and yeast 
 of to-day are far superior to the flour and yeast used by 
 our grandmothers. Why should not the bread made 
 to-day be far superior to the bread made by our grand- 
 mothers ? The flour and yeast furnished by American 
 men to-day are unequaled anywhere in excellence. 
 Why shouldn't the bread made by American women 
 to-day be the best bread in the world ? 
 
184 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Flour, — Under the system of milling that was almost 
 universal until thirty years ago the only fine flour that 
 could be produced was mostly starch, and the finest 
 white flour was then deficient in nitrogen and the 
 phosphates. Millers had no facilities for separating and 
 purifying the middlings which contained the hard, 
 nitrogenous parts of the- grain, and they were largely 
 used for pig and cattle feed. The new system of 
 milling, known as the roller process, has, however, 
 entirely revolutionized things, and the middlings which 
 contained those parts of the wheat are now purified and 
 milled with care into patent or new process flour. The 
 idea is still entertained by many that the choice, high- 
 priced, patent flours are deficient in nitrogenous matter, 
 and that coarse flour is more nutritious and healthful 
 than fine. The reverse is the fact. The finest flours 
 contain all the best elements of the wheat berry, without 
 any admixture of pulverized wood fiber, bran coating, 
 or germ grease ; and, all things considered, the very 
 finest patent flour holds the leading place both hygieni- 
 cally and economically among cereal foods or grain 
 products. 
 
 The highest grade of patent flour is made from 
 middlings cleansed from impurities by * ' middlings 
 purifiers. ' ' The inferior middlings go into other grades 
 in due proportion. And the highest grade contains 
 more gluten in proportion to the quantity of starch than 
 the other grades. But any of the different grades of 
 flour made at a certain mill can be raised or lowered in 
 quality at the option of the miller, by increasing or 
 decreasing the amount of gluten and starch in a given 
 
Bread- Making . 185 
 
 quantity of flour. Where the first patent made from a 
 given quantity of wheat is of the choicest quaUty, it 
 contains a large percentage of the best constituents of 
 the wheat, and the other grades made from the same 
 wheat must be correspondingly low in those constitu- 
 ents. Of course where only one grade of flour is 
 made at a mill all the constituents of the wheat berry go 
 into the flour ; but in a hundred pounds of such flour 
 the quantity of starch is greater in proportion to the 
 quantity of gluten than it is in a hundred pounds of the 
 highest grade patent flour. There is usually con- 
 siderable difference in the price of first and second grade 
 flour, and frequently a difference of fifty per cent in 
 price between a sack of the highest and a sack of the 
 lowest grade flour. In other words, when the best 
 patent flour made by a certain mill sells for $1.50 a 
 sack, the lowest grade flour made by the same mill sells 
 for 80 cents a sack. As a general rule, however, the 
 highest priced flour is the cheapest, as it contains twice 
 the amount of nutritious material and will, with half the 
 labor, produce more than twice the quantity of good, 
 wholesome bread. 
 
 Strength, when applied to flour, means the measure of 
 its power to absorb and retain water ; or indicates rather 
 the measure of water that the flour will absorb to 
 produce dough of a certain consistency, without any 
 regard to the delicacy or nutritive qualities of the bread 
 obtained from such dough. And when millers and 
 bakers talk of ' ' a strong flour, ' ' they mean that a 
 certain grade of flour will absorb more water, and make 
 more loaves of bread, than another grade will, and that 
 
1 86 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 a sack of flour of a special grade will take more wetting 
 into its mixture and yield a greater quantity of bread 
 than a sack of another grade will, the quality of the 
 bread not being taken into account. 
 
 Spring wheat has a harder grain than winter wheat 
 and yields a harder and grittier flour, which absorbs 
 more water and is easier to handle successfully than 
 winter wheat flour, in bread-making. But equally good 
 bread can be made from either variety, although more 
 delicate cake and pastry can be made from winter wheat 
 than from spring wheat flour, and what is known in the 
 market as "pastry flour" is simply flour made of winter 
 wheat. 
 
 Compressed Yeast. — Yeast is a vegetable germ found 
 upon the skin of grapes, plums, and some other fruits — 
 in fact, the beautiful shade upon the skin of those fruits 
 known as ' ' bloom ' ' is produced by the yeast plants that 
 float in the atmosphere settling upon them. If yeast 
 germs get, or are put, into a substance in which they 
 find material adapted to their development they increase 
 very rapidly, and by their vegetative action during the 
 period of growth cause the substance in which they are 
 growing to bubble or ferment. The manufacturers of 
 yeast multiply these germs indefinitely by inducing 
 fermentation in a sweet infusion of malt, rye, and corn, 
 and millions of the germs rise to the surface of the 
 fermenting liquid, forming a scum resembling the froth 
 of new milk. This scum is removed, run into vats of 
 cold water, and allowed to settle to the bottom. The 
 water is then pumped off", and the yeast pumped into 
 hydraulic presses and reduced by pressure to the con- 
 
Bread- Making. 187 
 
 sistency desired, when it is made into cakes and put 
 upon the market as ' ' compressed yeast. ' ' And from 
 the fact that compressed yeast is the purest yeast that 
 scientific research has yet discovered, and that it is im- 
 possible by mechanical skill to crowd a greater number 
 of yeast germs into a given space than are crowded into 
 a cake of compressed yeast, it goes almost without 
 saying that compressed yeast is the best ferment known 
 to the world to-day for bread-making. 
 
 It has been demonstrated over and over again that a 
 certain quantity of pure, strong yeast is necessary to 
 produce the best results in bread-making — that it is, in 
 fact, impossible to make the best quality of bread unless 
 the proper quantity of yeast be used ; and housekeepers 
 who, to save two or three cents on each baking, buy 
 liquid yeast at the bake shop, or dry yeast cakes at the 
 corner grocery, always have inferior bread and are losers 
 in nearly every way, in the long run. In yeast fermen- 
 tation the decomposition of the starch in flour yields the 
 gas that lightens the dough, while in these other fermen- 
 tations it is the gluten that suffers ; and as starch is the 
 most plentiful and least valuable portion of the flour, 
 economical considerations alone should induce the use of 
 compressed yeast in preference to any other ferments. 
 Pure yeast produces sweet, nutty-flavored, wholesome 
 bread, while diseased and putrefactive ferments produce 
 the coarse, rough crumb, the pale, flinty crust, and the 
 flat, sour loaf that are so disappointing and discouraging 
 to the bread-maker. The alleged costliness of com- 
 pressed yeast would be a serious objection to its use in 
 many families, if the allegation were correct. But no 
 
1 88 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 one whose time is of any value can afford to dabble 
 with dry yeast cakes or any of the other ferments. 
 They generally cost a hundred fold more than com- 
 pressed yeast by annoying the user, by robbing the 
 flour of nutrition, and by yielding inferior bread. How 
 much is gained in a baking by using one cent's worth of 
 common yeast and losing four cents' worth of nutritive 
 matter from the flour, over using four cents' worth of 
 compressed yeast and retaining all the nutrition in the 
 bread ? 
 
 The liability of compressed yeast to spoil in a short 
 time by exposure is an objection that is frequently made 
 to its use. But a similar objection can, with equal 
 propriety, be made to the use of fresh fish, fowl, and 
 flesh generally. And as a large proportion of so-called 
 perishable articles of food require greater care for their 
 perfect preservation than compressed yeast, this objec- 
 tion is more imaginary than real. As long as com- 
 pressed yeast remains firm and has an alcoholic smell it 
 can be depended upon to give better results than dry 
 yeast cakes or liquid yeast ; but the fresher it can be 
 had the better it is for bread-making, and in localities 
 where it is readily attainable housekeepers should always 
 get it as fresh as possible. 
 
 Given good flour and good yeast any one should be 
 able to make good bread. For the only other ingredi- 
 ents needed are a little salt and suflicient wetting to mix 
 the flour into a dough of the proper consistency. And 
 the wetting may be either water, or milk, or milk and 
 water — provided always the milk is sweet. Bread 
 mixed with water alone is tougher and sweeter, and will 
 
Bread- Making. 189 
 
 keep moist longer than bread mixed with milk and 
 water, or with milk alone. French bread is mixed with 
 water alone, Vienna bread is mixed with milk and water 
 in equal proportions, and several varieties of bread are 
 mixed with milk alone. 
 
 Comparatively good bread can be made with liquid 
 yeast, or even with dry yeast cakes if fresh and sweet ; 
 but the best quality of bread can be made only with 
 compressed yeast. And bread can be made so much 
 easier with compressed yeast than with either liquid 
 yeast or dry yeast cakes, that no housekeeper who can 
 get compressed yeast can afford to use any other kind. 
 
 Compressed Yeast Bread. — To each pint of luke- 
 warm wetting, composed of equal portions of sweet 
 milk and water, add a teaspoonful of salt and one half- 
 ounce cake of compressed yeast dissolved in about 
 three tablespoonfuls of cold water, then stir in flour with 
 a spoon until a dough is formed sufficiently stifl" to be 
 turned from the mixing bowl in a mass. Put this dough 
 on a molding board, and knead well, adding flour until 
 it ceases to stick to the fingers or the molding board, 
 then put it in a well-greased earthen bowl, brush the 
 surface lightly with melted butter or drippings to keep it 
 from crusting over, cover it with a bread towel, set to 
 rise, and let stand for three hours, at a temperature of 
 seventy-five degrees. At the end of that time form 
 into loaves or rolls, put into greased pans, brush the 
 surface with melted butter or drippings, cover as before, 
 and again set to rise for an hour, at the same tempera- 
 ture, then bake. 
 
 Dough when light enough to bake should be double 
 
190 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 the size in bulk it was when set to rise, and should be so 
 aerated all through that when lifted, in the pan, the 
 sense of weight will be scarcely perceptible. 
 
 Bread should be put to bake as soon as it is suffi- 
 ciently light ; and the oven, at the time the dough is 
 put into it, should be at a temperature of 375 degrees — 
 or hot enough to nicely brown a spoonful of flour, if put 
 in it, in two minutes, and it should be kept at almost the 
 same temperature throughout the baking. At that 
 temperature rolls will bake in twenty or twenty-five 
 minutes, and ordinary sized loaves in from forty-five to 
 fifty minutes. A loaf of bread when perfectly baked is 
 a beautiful chestnut brown all over. If either the ends, 
 sides, or bottom have a sickly hue, or are perceptibly 
 lighter in color than the top, the loaf has been im- 
 perfectly baked, and should be returned to the oven. A 
 loaf of bread when sufficiently baked will not burn the 
 hand, if lifted from the baking pan and laid on the open 
 palm ; and if tapped on the bottom with the finger it 
 will emit a hollow sound. Bread not sufficiently baked 
 deteriorates rapidly and will begin to grow moldy, and 
 frequently ropy, in three or four days, while perfectly 
 baked bread may be kept from mold, and in very good 
 condition, for a week or ten days. 
 
 Bread as soon as taken from the oven should be 
 turned from the pans, and placed, uncovered, in such 
 position as will expose the greatest amount of surface to 
 the fresh air, without allowing it to come in contact with 
 anything likely to give it an unpleasant taste or odor. 
 And when cold it should be put in a box or jar to which 
 the air can have access, and be kept in a dry, cool room 
 
Bread- Making. 191 
 
 or closet. To wrap bread in cloths while warm prevents 
 the escape of gas or steam, destroys the crispness of the 
 crust, and robs the bread of much of its fine, nutty 
 flavor. 
 
 The quantity of flour necessary to be mixed with a 
 certain quantity of wetting to make dough of the 
 proper consistency for bread cannot be given accurately 
 by weight or measure, without knowing the special 
 brand of flour to be used, as the quantity varies accord- 
 ing to the quality. But each quart of wetting will 
 require from three pounds and ten ounces to three 
 pounds and twelve ounces, or from seven to seven and 
 one half pints of the best flour, and the amount of 
 dough mixed from these proportions of wetting and 
 flour will make four medium-sized loaves, or about five 
 pounds, of good bread. 
 
 The quantity of yeast used in bread-making is quite 
 important, and if an insuflicient quantity is used the 
 bread will be devoid of the rich, nutty flavor, which is a 
 prominent characteristic of all good bread, and will 
 frequently have a yeasty smell or taste. 
 
 Bread is never improved by the addition of grease or 
 sugar. Grease interferes with the perfect action of the 
 yeast, and sugar destroys much of the fine flavor of the 
 flour. The simplest, easiest, and best method of 
 making bread that has yet been discovered is the 
 method given above. The formula is that used by the 
 Vienna bakers, who have for many years had the repu- 
 tation of being the best bread-makers in the world. 
 And all bread made in that manner is known as Vienna 
 bread. 
 
I92 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Liquid Yeast. — Compressed yeast is on sale in most 
 towns and villages, but as it cannot be obtained at all 
 times and in all places every housekeeper should be ac- 
 quainted with some approved method of making liquid 
 yeast. Here is one that has been thoroughly tested : 
 Steep an eighth of an ounce of pressed, or a small hand- 
 ful of loose, hops in a quart of boiling water for about 
 five minutes. Strain the boiling infusion upon half a 
 pint of flour, stirred to a smooth paste with a little cold 
 water, mix well, let boil a minute, add a tablespoonful of 
 salt, two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, set aside till luke- 
 warm, then stir in two half-ounce cakes of compressed 
 yeast dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of cold water, or a 
 gill of good liquid yeast. Let stand twenty-four hours, 
 stirring occasionally, cover closely, and set in a cool 
 place. Yeast made according to this method will keep 
 sweet two or three weeks, and can be used any time 
 during that period for mixing bread, or for starting a 
 fresh supply of yeast. 
 
 Liquid Yeast Bread. — Mash one medium-sized, well- 
 boiled potato in an earthen bowl with half a teacupful of 
 flour, and pour over it, stirring meanwhile, a quart of 
 boiling water. Set the mixture aside until it gets luke- 
 warm, then pour into it half a teacupful of liquid yeast, 
 stir well, cover closely, and let stand till light. When it 
 is perfectly light and foamy, which will be in about six 
 hours if kept at the proper temperature, mix together 
 equal portions of this ferment and warm sweet milk. 
 Stir in sifted flour until a dough is formed sufliciently 
 stiff" to be turned from the mixing bowl to the molding 
 board in a mass, then proceed in every respect as when 
 
Bread- Making. 1 93 
 
 making bread with compressed yeast. Bread made ac- 
 cording to this method goes under the general name of 
 home-made bread, and if all the conditions are carefully- 
 complied with, it will be of good quality, but not nearly 
 so good as Vienna bread. 
 
 Imperial Rolls. — Divide a piece of Vienna bread 
 dough, large enough for an ordinary sized loaf, into a 
 dozen irregular pieces about half an inch in thickness. 
 Take, separately, each of these pieces in the left hand, 
 and slightly stretch with the thumb and forefinger of the 
 right hand one of the irregular points over the left 
 thumb, toward the center of the roll. Repeat this 
 operation, turning the piece of dough as it proceeds, at 
 each turn lifting the thumb and gently pressing it upon 
 the last fold, until all the points have been drawn in, 
 when the roll must be turned face, or smooth side, up- 
 ward to rise, and when sufficiently risen must be reversed 
 in position, or turned smooth side downward in the pan, 
 and placed in the oven. If the folding is done properly, 
 an imperial roll when baked will be composed of a suc- 
 cession of sheets or layers of delicate, tenacious crumb, 
 surrounded with a thin, crisp, tender crust. 
 
 French Rolls No. i. — Take enough dough for a small 
 loaf of bread, and divide it into four pieces. Roll each 
 piece under the palms of the hands, upon the molding 
 board, into a long roll not much thicker than one's 
 thumb, lay in a suitable roll pan, let rise till sufficiently 
 light, then bake. 
 
 French Rolls No. 2. — Divide a piece of bread dough 
 large enough for a small loaf of bread into twelve pieces. 
 With the finger-tips knead each piece into a ball, then 
 
194 '^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 roll under the palms of the hands, upon the molding 
 board, until each is five or six inches in length — rolling 
 at last upon the ends only, so as to make them pointed 
 and smaller. Place two of these rolls together, and 
 lifting one end of each roll upon the other, pinch 
 together, lay in a flat, broad pan to rise, and brush over 
 with melted butter. Leave half an inch space between 
 the rolls so the crust of each roll may be perfect, and, 
 when sufficiently light, bake in the pan in which they 
 were put to rise. 
 
 French Rolls No. 3. — Divide sufficient dough for a 
 small loaf into twelve pieces. With the finger-tips 
 knead each piece into a ball, and place these balls an 
 inch apart, on a greased baking pan or floured board, to 
 rise. Brush over with melted butter, and let stand half 
 an hour at a temperature of seventy-five degrees, then 
 take each ball separately, and with a rolling pin not 
 larger than one's finger, press in the center of each 
 roll, pushing the dough each way from the center, until 
 the dough under the rolling pin is very thin and about 
 an inch and a half in width. Lift up this double roll, 
 stretch it until about an inch and a half longer, and lay 
 it face downward upon a towel or cloth spread in a 
 shallow pan, and close up against one side of the pan. 
 Manipulate another of the rolls in the same manner and 
 place beside the first, drawing up a portion of the towel 
 between the rolls. Repeat the operation until all the 
 rolls are in the pan. Let rise in this position half an 
 hour, or until the rolls are very light, then lift carefully 
 and place on a baking sheet or pan, face up, not allow- 
 ing them to touch each other, and bake. 
 
Bread- Making . 195 
 
 Crescents.— Roll the dough as directed for French 
 Rolls No. 2, but twice as long, which will leave it only- 
 half as large. Roll down at the ends to make them 
 pointed. Place two of these long, slender rolls beside 
 each other, and throwing them alternately over each 
 other, twist them together, and pinch the ends close. 
 Put them on a baking sheet or pan in the form of a 
 crescent or horse shoe, and let them rise for an hour, or 
 until light, then bake. 
 
 Queen Ann Rolls.— Shape the dough as for French 
 rolls, twist two of the rolls together as for crescents, lay- 
 in Queen Ann pans or large roll pans, let stand an hour, 
 or until light, then bake. 
 
 Rolls of all kinds are more crisp and tender when 
 baked quickly, and the oven should be hotter for rolls 
 than for bread. They should also be considerably 
 lighter than bread when put to bake, as they have but 
 little opportunity to rise after they go in the oven, if it 
 is hot enough to bake them properly. 
 
 Federal Bread. — To a quart of either milk or water 
 add a level teaspoon of salt and a cup of liquid yeast 
 or two cakes of compressed yeast dissolved, then stir 
 in flour enough to form a dough somewhat softer than 
 for bread. Add a tablespoonful of melted butter, and 
 three well-beaten eggs, pour into a baking dish or pan, 
 let rise six or eight hours, or until thoroughly light, 
 then bake. When baked, split crosswise in three or 
 four sections, butter generously, and replace so the loaf 
 will have its original shape. Serve warm. This is a 
 favorite bread for breakfast and tea in some sections. 
 
 Buns. — Two eggs, two cups boiling milk, half cup 
 
196 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 sugar, half cup butter, one cake compressed yeast, flour 
 enough to make a dough. Beat the eggs very light, 
 pour over them, beating meanwhile, the boiling milk, 
 then add the sugar and salt. Let the mixture cool until 
 lukewarm, then add the yeast, dissolved in a little cold 
 water, and stir in flour until a soft dough has been 
 formed. Turn upon the molding board and knead in 
 flour gradually until the dough becomes smooth and 
 elastic, but not stiff enough for bread, then put in a 
 greased bowl, and set to rise for five hours, or until 
 light. When light work in the butter, but do not add 
 any more flour, and let rise for an hour, or until light, 
 then form into buns or balls the size desired, place in a 
 greased pan about an inch apart, and again let rise for 
 two hours, or until light, then bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Cinnamon Rolls. — Roll small pieces of bun dough, 
 after it has risen the second time, into small rolls or 
 sticks. Flatten with a limber knife and cover with 
 melted butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Fold over and 
 roll into circular cakes with one end in the center, and 
 the other pinched to the outer surface, and place in a 
 baking pan, an inch apart. Let rise two hours, and 
 bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 German Coffee Cake. — Roll a piece of bun dough 
 after it has risen the second time into a sheet half an inch 
 thick, lay on a shallow baking pan, cover with granulated 
 sugar, then with cinnamon, and lastly with melted butter. 
 Let rise for two hours, or until very light, then bake in a 
 moderate oven. Sliced sour apple can be laid over the 
 cake when light, or the sugar, cinnamon, and butter can 
 be omitted, and the cake when light can be spread with 
 
Bread- Making. 197 
 
 preserves, jam, or jelly, and baked in a moderate oven. 
 
 Beaten Biscuit. — To two cups of flour add half a 
 tablespoonful of lard and half a teaspoonful of salt. Rub 
 the lard well through the flour, moisten gradually with 
 half a cup of cold water, and work the dough until it 
 will hold together, then beat with a mallet or heavy im- 
 plement until it is pliable and blisters. When it reaches 
 this condition roll out, cut into cakes the size desired, 
 prick several times with a fork, and bake in a hot oven 
 twenty-five minutes, or until nicely browned. 
 
 Baking Powder Biscuit No. i. — Two cups of flour, 
 one cup of sweet milk, two teaspoons baking powder, 
 one half teaspoonful of salt. Sift the salt, baking 
 powder, and flour together, add the milk, and beat to a 
 smooth dough. Turn upon a well-floured molding 
 board, dust with flour, and roll into a sheet about an 
 inch in thickness. Dip the biscuit cutter in flour, cut 
 the sheet of dough into cakes, lay in a baking pan, and 
 bake in a quick oven until thoroughly done. 
 
 Baking Powder Biscuit No. 2 — Two cups of flour, 
 one cup sweet milk, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, 
 two teaspoons baking powder, and half a teaspoonful of 
 salt. Mix as in No. i, add the melted butter, after all 
 the milk is in, beat well through the dough, then pro- 
 ceed as before. 
 
 Baking Powder Biscuit No. 3. — Two cups flour, one 
 cup cold water, one tablespoon butter, two teaspoons 
 baking powder, one half teaspoon salt. Sift the bak- 
 ing powder and salt with the flour. Rub the butter 
 through it with a limber-bladed knife, add the cold 
 water, mix well with a spoon, then proceed as in No. i. 
 
198 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Wheat Muffins No. i. — One and a half cups of flour, 
 one cup of sweet milk, one ^^'g, one tablespoonful of 
 melted butter, a pinch of salt. Put the flour, yolk of 
 ^gg, butter, salt, and half the milk together in the mix- 
 ing bowl, and beat until very light, then gradually add 
 the balance of the milk, continuing the beating, and 
 lastly beat the white of the ^%% stiff, and fold carefully 
 into the mixture. Bake half an hour in a hot oven. 
 
 Wheat Muffins No. 2. — Two cups of flour, one cup 
 of sweet milk, two tablespoons of melted butter, two 
 teaspoons of baking powder, a pinch of salt. Sift the 
 baking powder and salt with the flour into the mixing 
 bowl, add the milk, and beat well, then add the melted 
 butter. Bake half an hour. 
 
 Wheat Muffins No. 3. — One and a half cups of flour, 
 one cup of sweet milk, two tablespoons of melted butter, 
 two teaspoons of baking powder, two eggs, a pinch of 
 salt. Sift the baking powder, salt, and flour into the 
 mixing bowl, add the milk and yolks of eggs, beat until 
 very light, then add the melted butter, and lastly the 
 whites of the eggs beaten stifl". Bake half an hour. 
 
 Rice Muffins. — One and a half cups of flour, one cup 
 of sweet milk, one cup of boiled rice, two tablespoons of 
 melted butter, two teaspoons of baking powder, two 
 eggs. Sift the baking powder, salt, and flour into the 
 mixing bowl, add the milk and yolks of eggs, beat until 
 very light, add the melted butter, then the boiled rice, 
 which stir evenly through the mixture with a fork, and 
 lastly fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff". Bake 
 half an hour. 
 
 The formula for rice muffins is exactly the same as that 
 
Bread- Making . 199 
 
 for Wheat Muffins No. 3, with the addition of a cup of 
 boiled rice ; and although the rice enlarges the quantity 
 of batter considerably it does not materially affect its 
 consistency. The rice, in boiling, absorbs all the mois- 
 ture it is capable of holding, hence in mixing it in the 
 wheat muffin batter it is not necessary to use any addi- 
 tional wetting. 
 
 "Wheat Griddle Cakes No. i. — One and a half cups 
 of flour, one cup of sweet milk, two level teaspoons of 
 baking powder, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one 
 ^%%^ a pinch of salt. Sift the baking powder, salt, and 
 flour together in the mixing bowl, add the milk, butter, 
 and yolk of Q.g%, beat until very light, then fold in the 
 white of the ^%% beaten stiff, and bake in cakes on a hot 
 griddle. 
 
 Wheat Griddle Cakes No. 2. — One and one half cups 
 of flour, one cup of thick, sour milk, one teaspoon of soda, 
 a pinch of salt. Sift the soda, salt, and flour together 
 into the mixing bowl, add the sour milk, and stir with a 
 spoon, but only until thoroughly mixed. Bake on a 
 griddle. 
 
 Wheat Griddle Cakes No. 3. — One and one half cups 
 of flour, one cup of buttermilk, one teaspoon of soda, 
 one ^%%, a pinch of salt. Sift the soda and salt with the 
 flour, add the buttermilk and the Qg<g slightly beaten, 
 stir all carefully together, and bake on a griddle. 
 
 French Pancakes. — One cup of milk, half a cup of 
 flour, three eggs, one tablespoonful of olive oil or melted 
 butter, one teaspoonful of granulated sugar, half a 
 teaspoonful of salt. Sift the flour, sugar, and salt 
 together, add the oil, the yolks of the eggs, and one 
 
200 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 third of the milk, and beat until very light, then gradu- 
 ally add the remainder of the milk, stirring meanwhile, 
 and lastly fold in the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. 
 Put a teaspoonful of butter or olive oil on the griddle, 
 and when hot pour upon it one third of the batter. 
 Turn when brown, and when baked lift from the griddle, 
 and spread with powdered sugar and cinnamon ; or 
 spread lightly with any rich preserve or marmalade, 
 roll up, dust the outside with pulverized sugar, sear 
 with a hot iron, and serve at breakfast or luncheon, or 
 as an entree at dinner. 
 
 Flannel Cakes. — Two cups lukewarm water, one and 
 one half cups flour, one and one half cups corn-meal, 
 half a teaspoonful salt, half a cup of home-made, or 
 half a cake of compressed, yeast. Add the yeast and 
 salt to the water, mix the flour and meal together, and 
 stir them into it. Let stand over night, or until light, 
 then bake on a griddle. If the batter should become 
 sour by standing over night stir into it half a teaspoonful 
 of soda dissolved in warm water. Milk can be used 
 instead of water for mixing the batter. 
 
 Bread Cakes. — Two cups bread crumbs, two cups 
 boiling milk, one cup cold milk, one cup flour, one 
 tablespoonful butter, one teaspoonful baking powder, 
 two eggs. Pour the boiling milk over the bread 
 crumbs, add the butter, cover, and let stand over night, 
 or till cold. Mash to a smooth paste, beat Into it the 
 yolks of the eggs, add gradually the cold milk, then 
 add the flour and baking powder sifted together, and 
 lastly the whites of the eggs beaten stifl". Bake, in 
 small cakes, on a griddle, until nicely browned. 
 
Bread- Making, 201 
 
 "Waffles No. i. — Two cups sweet milk, three cups 
 flour, one tablespoonful of butter, half a cake of com- 
 pressed yeast, or half a cup of liquid yeast, a level 
 teaspoon of salt. Boil the milk, add the butter and 
 salt, and set aside till lukewarm, then stir gradually into 
 the flour, and lastly add the yeast. Beat well and let 
 stand over night. Give the batter a thorough beating 
 in the morning and bake in greased waflie irons. 
 
 Waffles No. 2. — Two cups sweet milk, three cups 
 flour, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, a level teaspoon- 
 ful salt, three eggs, half a cake of compressed, or a gill 
 of liquid, yeast. Boil the milk, and when lukewarm 
 add the salt and yeast and stir gradually into the flour. 
 Beat well and let stand over night. In the morning add 
 the melted butter, then the yolks of the eggs, one at a 
 time, beating each one thoroughly in the batter before 
 adding another, and lastly add the whites beaten stiff". 
 
 Waffles No. 3. — Two cups cold sweet milk, three cups 
 flour, two tablespoonfuls melted butter, two teaspoons 
 baking powder, one level teaspoon salt, two eggs. Mix 
 the baking powder, salt, and flour together, stir the cold 
 milk in gradually, add the melted butter, then the yolks, 
 and lastly the whites of the eggs beaten separately. 
 Bake at once. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes No. i. — To a quart of cold water 
 add a half ounce of compressed yeast dissolved, or a 
 cup of liquid yeast, and a level teaspoon of salt, then 
 stir in buckwheat flour enough to make a thick batter. 
 Set in a warm place till light, then beat thoroughly, and 
 put in a cool place till next morning. In the morning 
 beat the batter, take out a cupful, and set aside to start 
 
202 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 the next mixing with ; add a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 soda dissolved in warm water, and sufficient warm milk 
 to thin the batter to the consistency desired. Set in a 
 warm place for half an hour, or until ready to bake. 
 
 Buckwheat Cakes No. 2. — Stir into a quart of boiling 
 water in which a teaspoonful of salt has been dissolved 
 half a cup of corn-meal wet with a little cold water, and 
 cook well. Let cool till lukewarm, then stir in half a 
 cup of wheat flour, three cups of buckwheat flour, and a 
 gill of soft yeast, or a small cake of compressed yeast, 
 dissolved in two spoonfuls of cold water, and set in a 
 moderately warm place until light. Just before baking, 
 add half a teaspoonful of soda to the batter, and thin, if 
 necessary, with a little warm water. 
 
 These cakes when intended for breakfast should be set 
 to rise at noon the previous day. By eight or nine 
 o'clock in the evening they will be light, and should then 
 be well beaten and set in a cool place during the night. 
 
 Pop-Overs. — One cup of flour, one cup of sweet milk, 
 one ^%%, and a pinch of salt. Put the ^%<g, flour, salt, and 
 half the milk together in a small bowl, and with a Dover 
 beater whip very light, then gradually add the balance 
 of the milk. Half fill deep gem pans, and bake forty-five 
 minutes in an oven at the same temperature as for bread. 
 
 As a general rule it is advisable to beat the yolks of 
 the eggs with the batter, and to beat the whites sepa- 
 rately and fold them carefully into the batter at the very 
 last. But in all very thin batters it is best to beat the 
 eggs, without separating the whites and yolks, with the 
 flour and a portion of the milk, as in pop-overs and 
 similar mixtures. 
 
Bread- Making . 203 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake. — Two cups of flour, one cup 
 sweet milk, two tablespoons melted butter, two teaspoons 
 baking powder, one half teaspoon salt. Sift the salt, 
 baking powder, and flour together, add the milk, then 
 the melted butter, and beat to a smooth dough. Turn 
 on to a well-floured molding board, dust over with 
 flour, and roll into a sheet half an inch in thickness. 
 Cut into large cakes and bake in a moderate oven. 
 When thoroughly baked, pull the crust apart with a 
 fork, put bits of butter here and there over the inside, 
 let stand a minute to soften, then spread gently so as not 
 to pack the soft crumb of the surface. When all the 
 cakes are buttered in this manner lay two or three of 
 them, crust down, on a platter or shallow dish, cover 
 with strawberries that have been sweetened and stood in 
 a warm place while the cakes were baking, then place 
 other halves, crust down, upon these, cover with the pre- 
 pared strawberries in the same manner, and so place a 
 third layer of the shortcake and again cover with berries, 
 being careful to have the berries most plentiful upon the 
 upper layer. Cut the shortcake into quarters and serve. 
 
 Orange Shortcake. — Stew sour apples and mix while 
 warm with an equal portion of orange marmalade. 
 Spread upon shortcake prepared as for strawberries. 
 
 Raspberry Shortcake. — Prepare, bake, and butter the 
 shortcake exactly as directed for strawberry shortcake, 
 then spread with raspberries, sweetened to taste and 
 slightly warmed. 
 
 Banana Shortcake. — Prepare the shortcake as directed 
 for strawberry shortcake and spread with bananas pre- 
 pared in this manner : To the juice of one lemon add a 
 
204 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 cup of granulated sugar, warm enough to melt the sugar, 
 slice into it four bananas, with a wooden spoon mash and 
 beat into a pulp. Use the same as strawberries or rasp- 
 berries. 
 
 Pine- Apple Shortcake. — Prepare and bake the short- 
 cake the same as for strawberry shortcake. Cook 
 together one cup of water and two cups of granulated 
 sugar until the sugar is dissolved, then thicken with a 
 tablespoonful of arrow-root mixed with two tablespoon- 
 fuls of cold water. Simmer five minutes, remove from 
 the fire, add the syrup from a can of flaked pine-apple, 
 and two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice. While slightly 
 warm add the flaked pine-apple, mix well, and spread 
 upon the buttered shortcake. 
 
 Cornstarch can be used in place of arrow-root, but it 
 is not so delicate in flavor. 
 
 Graham Bread. — To each pint of lukewarm wetting 
 composed of equal portions of sweet milk and water, 
 add a tablespoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
 and a half-ounce cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in 
 two tablespoonfuls of cold water. Then stir in with a 
 wooden spoon a heaping quart of graham flour, or as 
 much more as may be necessary to form a dough sufli- 
 ciently stiff to be removed in a mass from the mixing 
 bowl. Turn the dough on to the molding board well 
 sprinkled with white flour, and knead, adding white 
 flour until the dough ceases to stick to the fingers, or 
 molding board. Then proceed exactly as for white 
 flour bread, being careful not to make the dough so stiff 
 as for white bread. 
 
 Molasses can be used instead of sugar, in making 
 
Bread- Making. 205 
 
 graham bread, but it makes the bread dark-colored and 
 sticky, and renders it liable to become sour or moldy 
 in hot weather, if kept two or three days. Bread is 
 made in the same manner from entire wheat, whole 
 wheat, and peeled wheat flour. The sugar may be 
 omitted from any of them, when desired. Graham 
 bread requires to be baked a considerably longer time 
 than white flour bread, as does also bread made of 
 either whole wheat, entire wheat, or peeled wheat flour. 
 Consequently the loaves should be smaller and should 
 be baked at a somewhat lower temperature. 
 
 There is so much inferior graham flour in market — 
 made by mixing an undue proportion of bran with low 
 grade white flour — that the only way to make satisfac- 
 tory or even half-way decent bread of it is to sift out a 
 large portion of the bran, and mix with the residue at 
 least twenty per cent of the highest grade white flour. 
 And where good graham flour cannot be obtained it is 
 always best to do this before using. When it is of good 
 quality it does not need to have any bran sifted out, and 
 no white flour should be added. 
 
 Graham Diamonds. — Add a teaspoonful each of gran- 
 ulated sugar and salt to a quart of graham flour. Pour 
 boiling water upon it until thoroughly scalded. Work 
 into a soft dough and roll out to about half an inch in 
 thickness, then with a sharp knife cut into diamonds or 
 squares, place in a baking pan, and bake in a hot oven 
 half an hour, or until well baked and crisp. 
 
 Plain Graham Gems. — Dissolve a teaspoonful of 
 sugar and half a teaspoonful of salt into two cups of cold 
 milk and water mixed in equal proportions, and stir 
 
2o6 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 briskly into it three cups of graham flour. Pour the 
 mixture into well-greased gem pans, filling each cup of 
 the pan about half full, and bake in a quick oven until 
 brown. 
 
 Graham Gems with Eggs. — To two cups of cold 
 milk and water mixed in equal proportions add the 
 beaten yolks of two eggs, stir in two cups of graham 
 flour with which a teaspoonful of sugar and half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt have been mixed, then add the whites 
 of the eggs beaten stifl", pour into greased gem pans, 
 and bake half an hour, or until brown. 
 
 Graham Gems with Sour Milk. — Beat together one 
 cup of sour milk or cream, one teaspoonful of salt, half 
 a teaspoonful of soda, and a cup and a half of graham 
 flour, and bake in greased gem pans. 
 
 Graham Gems with Sweet Milk. — Beat together one 
 cup of sweet milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter, 
 one teaspoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt, one 
 ^%%-, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Stir in 
 one and a half cups of graham flour, and bake in greased 
 gem pans. 
 
 Muflin rings can be used for baking these gems in, but 
 mufiin pans are much better. If iron pans are used they 
 should be hot when the batter is put into them, and 
 should be placed in the oven where the greatest heat 
 will be at the bottom, so the gems may rise to their full- 
 est capacity before browning on top. It is frequently 
 advisable to set the pan on top of the stove about a 
 minute before putting it in the oven, that it may heat 
 thoroughly and thus facilitate the rising of the gems. 
 
 Boston Brown Bread. — Two cups corn-meal, two 
 
Bread- Making . 207 
 
 cups graham flour, one cup New Orleans molasses, three 
 cups sour milk or buttermilk, three even teaspoons soda, 
 two even teaspoons salt. Mix together the meal, flour, 
 soda, and salt, add the molasses and milk, stir thor- 
 oughly, pour into a well-greased mold, cover closely, 
 and steam four or five hours. 
 
 Oatmeal Rolls. — To a quart of cooked oatmeal, cold, 
 add a cup of white, graham, or whole wheat flour, mix 
 thoroughly, and pack smoothly into a broad pan an inch 
 deep. When wanted for use cut into circular cakes with 
 a floured biscuit cutter, or into strips any desired length, 
 with a knife, lay in a greased or floured pan, and bake 
 until nicely browned. 
 
 Cracked Wheat Rolls. — Use cracked wheat mush in 
 place of oatmeal and make and bake in the same manner. 
 
 Oatmeal Muffins. — To four cups of oatmeal mush add 
 one cup of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, one cup of 
 cold sweet milk, and the yolks of two eggs. Beat well 
 together, and then add the whites of the eggs beaten 
 stifl". Bake in hot gem pans or in muflin rings. 
 
 Cracked Wheat Muffins. — Use cracked or rolled wheat 
 mush instead of oatmeal, and make and bake in the 
 same manner. 
 
 CORN-MEAL. 
 
 The roller mill has worked as great an improvement 
 in corn-meal as it has in flour, and the corn-meal of to- 
 day is vastly superior in quality to the corn-meal of 
 twenty-five years ago, and requires very different hand- 
 ling. And yet the recipes given in most cook-books pre- 
 scribe * * one cup of wheat flour and two cups of corn- 
 meal," or else "two cups of wheat flour and one cup of 
 
2o8 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 corn-meal, ' ' for making all kinds of corn-bread. These 
 are the formulas that were in vogue when bolted corn- 
 meal was the only meal manufactured and used, and if 
 they produced satisfactory results with bolted meal, they 
 certainly do not when granulated meal is used. Such a 
 mixture — whether the meal be bolted or granulated — 
 does not make bread of any kind of a very high charac- 
 ter ; but, be its character high or low, it has no legitimate 
 claim to the title of corn-bread. For bread-making pur- 
 poses wheat flour and corn-meal have no affinity what- 
 ever, as one requires scalding and the other does not. 
 Corn-meal requires a good deal of cooking to develop 
 its finest flavor, and make it palatable and healthful ; and 
 the main point in making good corn-bread is to scald the 
 meal thoroughly. The water used for scalding meal 
 should be boiling, and that none of its efficacy be lost 
 it is desirable that the vessel in which the dough is 
 mixed, and the spoon with which it is stirred, should be 
 warm. There is a vast diflerence in the quality of corn- 
 bread made with scalded meal and that made with meal 
 which has been merely soaked with warm water. Almost 
 every kind of corn-bread is better for being cooked from 
 forty to sixty minutes, and if the meal is not thoroughly 
 scalded when mixed it should be baked considerably 
 longer. Granulated meal makes much lighter, drier, 
 sweeter, and more delicious bread than bolted meal, and 
 is preferable for all culinary purposes. But it should be 
 always thoroughly scalded with boiling water or milk 
 before it is made into bread or cakes, and whenever cold 
 milk is used it should be added gradually. There are 
 several grades of granulated meal — some being quite 
 
Bread- Making . 209 
 
 coarse and some very fine — and as the coarse will absorb 
 fully twice as much water as the fine in the process of 
 scalding, it requires the exercise of judgment to have 
 the dough of the proper consistency — neither too soft 
 nor too stiff. The formulas here given are for meal of 
 medium fineness. If the meal used is very coarse more 
 liquid will be required, if very fine less liquid. 
 
 Corn Dodgers. — One cup of granulated corn-meal, 
 three fourths of a cup of boiling water, half a cup of cold 
 sweet milk, one heaping teaspoon sugar, one level tea- 
 spoon salt. Mix the salt and sugar with the meal, pour 
 the boiling water over the mixture, and when thoroughly 
 scalded add the cold milk gradually, and stir well. 
 The dough should be sufficiently stiff to retain its shape 
 without spreading, when placed upon the griddle. Put 
 a piece of butter about the size of a pea upon the grid- 
 dle, where the cake is to be placed, and as soon as it 
 melts drop a spoonful of the dough upon it. Fill the 
 griddle in this manner with cakes, and when they are 
 browned on the under side, place a bit of butter upon 
 each of them, turn them over, and gently press as close 
 to the griddle as possible, with a knife or cake paddle. 
 After being turned on the griddle and browned on both 
 sides, the cakes can be transferred to a baking pan, and 
 finished in a hot oven ; or if more convenient they can 
 be baked, without the griddle being used, on a baking 
 pan in the oven. Such cakes or dodgers can be baked 
 in thirty minutes, but are sweeter and nicer when baked 
 a longer time. The heat should be moderate so as not 
 to burn the cakes, and if necessary they can be turned 
 several times while baking. 
 
2IO The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Corn Crusts. — One cup of granulated meal, three 
 fourths of a cup of boiling water, half a cup of cold 
 sweet milk, one heaping teaspoon of sugar, one level 
 teaspoon of salt, one tablespoonful of butter, one ^%'g. 
 Mix the salt and sugar with the meal, scald the mixture 
 with the boiling water, add the butter, then the cold 
 milk gradually, and stir well. When the dough is 
 sufficiently cool beat in the ^%%^ spread thin in a greased 
 pan, and bake in a quick oven. If the dough should be 
 too stiff to shape smooth in the pan, it can be thinned to 
 the proper consistency with a little more milk or water. 
 
 Corn-Bread. — One cup of granulated corn-meal, one 
 and one quarter cups boiling milk, one tablespoonful of 
 butter, one heaping teaspoonful of sugar, one level tea- 
 spoonful of salt, two eggs. Mix the meal, salt, and 
 sugar together, scald with boiling milk, add the butter, 
 and, when the mixture is sufficiently cool, stir in the 
 yolks and whites of the eggs, beaten separately. Bake 
 in loaves. 
 
 Corn Muffins No. i. — One cup of granulated corn- 
 meal, three fourths cup of boiling water, one half cup 
 cold sweet milk, one heaping teaspoonful of sugar, one 
 level teaspoon of salt, one ^^%. Mix the sugar and salt 
 with the meal, scald with the boiling water, add the cold 
 milk gradually, stir in the ^%%, and bake in muffin cups, 
 or in shallow pie pans. 
 
 Corn Muffins No. 2. — One cup granulated corn-meal, 
 three fourths of a cup of boiling water, one half of a 
 cup of cold sweet milk, one cup of boiled rice, one 
 heaping teaspoonful of sugar, one level teaspoonful of 
 salt, one tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of 
 
Bread- Making. 211 
 
 baking powder, two eggs. Mix the salt and sugar with 
 the meal, scald with the boiling water, add the butter, 
 then the milk, then the eggs, then stir in the rice, then 
 lastly add the baking powder. Bake in muffin cups or 
 pie pans. 
 
 Corn Griddle Cakes No. i — One cup of granulated 
 corn-meal, three fourths of a cup of boiling water, half 
 a cup of cold sweet milk, one heaping teaspoonful of 
 sugar, one level teaspoonful of salt, one tablespoonful of 
 flour, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one ^^%. Mix 
 the sugar and salt with the meal, scald with the boiling 
 water, stir in the q.%^, add the flour and baking powder, 
 beat well, and bake in small cakes on the griddle. 
 
 Corn Griddle Cakes No. 2. — One cup of granulated 
 corn-meal, one cup of boiling water, three fourths of a 
 cup of sweet milk, half a cup of flour, one teaspoonful 
 of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of 
 butter, one teaspoonful of baking powder, one ^%%. 
 Put together and bake the same as Griddle Cakes No. i. 
 
 Corn-meal Mush. — Three cups of boiling water, one 
 cup of corn-meal, half a cup of cold water, one tea- 
 spoonful of salt. Moisten the meal with the cold water, 
 and stir the mixture gradually into the boiling water, to 
 which the salt has been added. Cook thirty minutes, 
 stirring occasionally to keep it from sticking to the 
 kettle and burning, then move to the back of the stove, 
 and let simmer gently an hour, or until ready to serve. 
 
 If the mush is to be used for frying, moisten the meal 
 with cold milk instead of water — as it will brown easier 
 — and after it has cooked half an hour turn it into a pan 
 or mold that has been wet with cold water, and let cool. 
 
212 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Hominy Rolls. — To four cups of boiled, granulated 
 hominy, add, while hot, one cup of corn-meal, mix 
 thoroughly, form into cakes or rolls, and bake on a 
 griddle like corn dodgers. 
 
 Hominy Muffins. — To four cups of boiled, granulated 
 hominy, add, while hot, one cup of corn-meal, one cup 
 of cold sweet milk, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, 
 and the yolks of two eggs. Mix thoroughly, then add 
 the whites of the eggs beaten stiff, and bake in muffin 
 cups, or shallow pie pans. 
 
CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 PASTRY AND PIE. 
 
 Pie, when properly made, is perhaps as healthful an.! 
 nutritious as any of the ordinary articles of food. And 
 if properly-made pie ever produces indigestion it is because 
 it is eaten between meals, or at the close of a meal when 
 the stomach is overloaded with food. There are several 
 varieties of pastry or pie crust, some of them especially 
 adapted to certain kinds of pies, but any of which can 
 be used whenever pastry or paste is required, and none 
 of which need be indigestible. 
 
 Puff Paste. — For each pound of flour use a pound of 
 butter. Spread a napkin in a pan of cold water. Put 
 the butter in the napkin and work with a wooden spoon, 
 carefully keeping the napkin between the butter and the 
 spoon, until the butter becomes pliable and waxy. Shape 
 the butter into a compact roll, and flatten until not more 
 than an inch thick. Mix the flour, an eighth of the 
 butter, and an egg with suflicient water to form a stiff, 
 smooth paste. Work the paste well with the tips of the 
 fingers. Beat five or ten minutes with the rolling pin, 
 doubling and folding frequently, and using flour to keep 
 it from sticking to the molding board or rolling pin. 
 When the paste becomes light and pufly, roll it out, cir- 
 cular in shape, until about an inch thick. Lay the flat- 
 tened lump of butter in the center of the rolled-out 
 
 213 
 
214 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 paste. Fold the paste over from each side, so as to 
 cover the butter and leave the paste oblong in shape, 
 and twice as long as wide. Press the rolling pin on it in 
 three or four places, to hold the folded paste together, 
 roll out gently with a light, even pressure until about an 
 inch in thickness, then wrap it toward you, over the 
 rolling pin, lift from the table, turn the upper surface 
 downward, and again roll out till not more than three 
 fourths of an inch in thickness, and about three times as 
 long as wide. Fold this oblong strip over toward the 
 middle twice, using a third of its length in each fold, 
 then turn it at right angles on the table. Press the roll- 
 ing pin on it three or four times, as before, roll down to 
 an inch in thickness, turn over on the table, upper side 
 downward, and roll out exactly as before, until the paste 
 again assumes an oblong shape. Perform this operation 
 six times, then brush the upper surface of the paste with 
 lemon juice, fold over twice as at first, lay in a shallow 
 pan, and place on ice for several hours. After it be- 
 comes thoroughly chilled it can be rolled out to the re- 
 quired thickness, cut in the form desired, and baked in 
 an oven at 375 degrees, or about the same temperature 
 as for bread. 
 
 As it is necessary to keep puff paste cold it should be 
 made in a cold room, at an open window, and after each 
 turn of the paste it should be laid carefully in a shallow 
 pan and placed on ice until chilled, but not frozen. 
 During the entire process of making puff paste, flour — 
 in addition to that allowed for making the paste — should 
 be sprinkled freely on the molding board and rolling pin 
 whenever they are used ; but each time the paste is to 
 
Pastry and Pie, 215 
 
 be folded, all adhering flour should be carefully brushed 
 from the upper surface with a pastry brush, before the 
 rolling is begun. 
 
 To make vol-au-vents, or small patty cases, cut them, 
 from the rolled-out paste, in circular or diamond shapes, 
 with a tin cutter or a sharp knife, lift to a baking sheet 
 with a broad-bladed knife, cut lightly into the top of 
 each with a small cutter, and, when baked, remove the 
 cut top, pick out the unbaked paste, and replace the 
 little covers. Fill the cases with any mixture desired and 
 serve. 
 
 Flaky Pie Crust. — ^Three cups of flour, half a cup of 
 butter, half a cup of lard, three fourths of a cup of ice 
 water. 
 
 Sift the flour into a chopping bowl, add the butter and 
 lard, and chop with a hash knife until no pieces of the 
 shortening larger than a pea can be seen. Then sprinkle 
 the ice water here and there through the flour, and mix 
 with a fork into a rather soft dough or paste. Pile upon 
 a well-floured kneading board, dust lightly with flour, 
 press down with the rolling pin, and roll gently back and 
 forth until the paste becomes an oblong sheet not more 
 than half an inch in thickness. Slip a broad-bladed 
 knife under each end of this sheet, and fold over toward 
 the center, thus forming three layers of the paste. Lift, 
 with the knife, from the board — which dust with fresh 
 flour — ^lay it at right angles with the position it occupied 
 v^hen lifted, dust with flour, roll out, and again fold over 
 as before. Repeat the operation, and the paste is ready 
 to lay aside for future use, or to roll into form and use at 
 once. 
 
2i6 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 When the ice water is added to the flour and shorten- 
 ing, the shortening becomes distributed through the 
 flour in small balls, and if the mixing is done lightly it 
 remains as balls and is not packed together in a mass, 
 and when the dough is drawn together and lightly 
 pressed with the rolling pin these balls flatten into flakes, 
 which, by repeated foldings, are piled one upon another, 
 and by gentle rolling become thinner and more delicate. 
 Three rollings and foldings are as much as these flakes 
 will bear. Rolling and folding a greater number of 
 times causes them to become broken and packed, so that 
 the paste will not rise and pufl" up, as it should, in 
 baking. 
 
 It is well to let the paste lie on ice, or in a cold place, 
 for an hour before rolling it out for pies, as its quality is 
 improved by so doing ; and if the weather is warm it 
 may advantageously be placed on ice ten minutes between 
 each rolling out. If a teaspoonful of baking powder be 
 sifted with the flour, less shortening can be used, but the 
 pastry will not be as crisp and delicate. 
 
 Suet Pastry. — To three cups of flour add one cup of 
 finely shredded beef suet, three teaspoonfuls of baking 
 powder, and one teaspoonful of salt. Mix, with cold 
 water, or cold sweet milk, to a soft dough. 
 
 Egg Pastry. — To one ^g%, slightly beaten, add a pinch 
 of salt, a tablespoonful of melted butter, and flour 
 sufficient to make a soft dough. Knead in the flour with 
 the finger-tips until the dough is smooth and very elastic, 
 and can be kneaded without flour and without sticking to 
 the molding board. When properly made, ^^'g paste 
 can be rolled as thin as a sheet of paper. 
 
Pastry and Pie. 217 
 
 Potato Pastry. — To two cups of finely mashed boiled 
 potato add a tablespoonful of melted butter, half a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and half a cup of flour. Work together 
 into a smooth dough. 
 
 Apple Pie No. i. — Roll a piece of flaky pie crust to 
 the thickness desired. Place upon a pie pan or dish, 
 shaping it carefully to the dish, and cut off around the 
 edges with a sharp knife. Cover the bottom of the 
 crust with a thin layer of sugar, dust with flour, then fill 
 the crust with quarters of pared and cored apples. Dust 
 them lighdy with salt, and generously with sugar — 
 especially if they are very tart — roll an upper crust and 
 lay over them, trim around the edges as before, press 
 the upper and lower crusts together lightly, and bake 
 half an hour, or until the apples are soft, and the top and 
 bottom crusts are both nicely browned. 
 
 Apple Pie No. 2. — Roll the paste and fill with apples 
 as above. Dust lightly with salt only, fit on the upper 
 crust, but do not press the crusts together at the edges, 
 and bake until the apples are cooked and the crusts 
 nicely browned. Take from the oven, slip from the tin 
 or pan in which it was baked to a warm plate on which 
 it is to be served. Remove the upper crust carefully, 
 season the apples to taste with sugar, replace the upper 
 crust, and serve warm. 
 
 Apple Pie No. 3. — Make and bake like Pie No. 2. 
 Take from the oven, remove the upper crust, pour over 
 the apple a dressing made by cooking together two table- 
 spoonfuls of orange juice, a quarter of the peel of an 
 orange, grated, and enough sugar to sweeten the pie, 
 Replace the upper crust and serv^e warm. 
 
21 8 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 English Apple Pie No. i. — Butter lightly an earthen 
 or granite-ware pie or pudding dish, and sprinkle sugar 
 over the bottom. Rinse the quarters of pared and cored 
 apples in cold water, put them in the dish, dust lightly 
 with salt, sweeten to taste with sugar, cover with a sheet 
 of paste, and bake until well done. 
 
 English Apple Pie No. 2. — Lay halves of pared and 
 cored apples, inside down, on an earthen or granite-ware 
 dish, buttered and sprinkled with sugar. Season like Eng- 
 lish Apple Pie No. i , cover with a paste, rolled somewhat 
 thicker than ordinary pie crust, and bake till well done. 
 Serve as apple dumpling, with sweet cream. Or omit 
 the seasoning in the pie and serve with a sweet sauce, 
 either hard or liquid. 
 
 New England Apple Pie. — Cover a deep earthen or 
 granite-ware pie pan or a shallow pudding dish with 
 paste, dust flour over the bottom, fill with quarters of 
 apples pared and cored, and cover generously with New 
 Orleans molasses. Fit on an upper crust, and make a 
 few slits in it to allow the steam to escape, and bake 
 slowly until brown and crisp. Serve with sweet cream. 
 Or the bottom crust may be omitted, and the top crust 
 made twice as thick as ordinary pie crust. This is a 
 very delicious pie peculiar to New England, and is fre- 
 quently called ''pan-dowdy." 
 
 Apple Strudels. — Roll out a piece of ^^% pastry until 
 it is large enough to cover a pie pan, but only half as 
 thick as flaky pie crust. Cover it nearly to the edge 
 with sour apples sliced very thin and seasoned to taste 
 with sugar and ground cinnamon. Roll up like a roly- 
 poly, pinch the edges securely together, lay upon a 
 
Pastry and Pie. 219 
 
 greased pan, and bake half an hour, or until cooked. 
 Serve warm. 
 
 Strudels may be made in a similar manner of other 
 fruit. 
 
 Raspberry Pie No. i. — To two cups of raspberries 
 add one cup of ripe currants and one heaping cup of 
 granulated sugar, with which a tablespoonful of flour has 
 been mixed, and stir all well together. Line the sides 
 of a shallow pudding dish with flaky pie crust, put in 
 the fruit, cover with a tolerably thick sheet of the paste, 
 make several incisions for the escape of steam, and 
 bake till the crusts are nicely browned. Serve cool. 
 
 Raspberry Pie No. 2. — Prepare the fruit as in Rasp- 
 berry Pie No. I and bake between two crusts in pie pans. 
 
 Strawberry Pie No. i. — Two cups of strawberries, 
 three fourths of a cup of granulated sugar, one table- 
 spoonful of flour. Mix the sugar with the flour, then 
 with the berries, and bake between two crusts in pie pans. 
 
 Strawberry Pie No. 2. — Line a pie pan with paste, 
 fill with white tissue paper, cover carefully with a sheet 
 of paste, being careful not to press the edges of the 
 upper and under crusts together, and bake till a nice 
 brown. Take from the oven, slip to a warm plate, re- 
 move the top crust, take out the paper, fill the pie with 
 fruit prepared as for Strawberry Pie No. i , and cooked 
 in a sauce-pan while the crusts were baking, replace the 
 top crust, and serve when cool. 
 
 Blackberry Pie. — Blackberry pie can be made in the 
 same manner as strawberry pie. If the berries are very 
 acid the same quantity of sugar will be necessary ; if 
 very sweet only half as much will be required. 
 
220 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Huckleberry Pie. — Huckleberry pie may be made in 
 the same manner as blackberry pie, but will be improved 
 by adding to the huckleberries one third as many ripe 
 currants as are to be used of huckleberries. 
 
 Gooseberry Pie. — Cover the gooseberries with cold 
 water, and heat to boiling point, then drain off the water, 
 and make the gooseberries into pies after either of the 
 methods given for making strawberry pies. 
 
 Pie-plant Pie. — Wash the pie-plant and cut in pieces 
 half an inch long. Put it in a sauce-pan, cover with 
 cold water, heat to boiling point, then drain. To two 
 cups of the drained pie-plant add three fourths of a cup 
 of sugar with which a tablespoonful of flour has been 
 mixed. Roll out the under crust, fit it to the pie pan, 
 and fill with the prepared plant. Cover with a layer of 
 paste, make an incision for the escape of steam, and 
 bake until the crust is brown and crisp. 
 
 Cherry Pie. — Pick over and wash two cups of sour 
 cherries, add to them one cup of granulated sugar and 
 a tablespoonful of flour, mixed together. Line the 
 sides of an earthen or granite- ware pudding dish with 
 paste, fill with the prepared cherries, and cover with a 
 sheet of paste, rolled twice as thick as ordinary pie 
 crust. Make several incisions near the center for the 
 escape of steam, and bake till the crust is a nice brown. 
 If the cherries are sweet use less sugar. 
 
 Damson Pie. — Pies may be made of damsons or other 
 varieties of plums by following the method given for 
 cherry pie. The sugar must be proportioned to suit the 
 acidity of the damsons or plums used. 
 
 Grape Pie. — To two cups of grapes, add half a cup of 
 
Pastry and Pie. 221 
 
 sugar and a tablespoonful of flour, mixed together — 
 unless the grapes are very sour, when more sugar must 
 be used — and bake between two crusts in a deep pie pan. 
 Peach Pie. — Line the sides of a granite or earthen- 
 ware pudding dish with paste, fill with medium-sized 
 ripe, but not soft, peaches, that have been pared, add to 
 each quart of peaches a cup of granulated sugar and a 
 tablespoonful of flour, mixed together, and cover with a 
 thick sheet of paste. Bake till well done, and when cool 
 serve with sweet cream. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. — To two cups of stewed pumpkin add 
 one cup of rich sweet milk, half a cup of New Orleans 
 molasses, half a cup of granulated sugar, one table- 
 spoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful of ginger, 
 one even teaspoonful of salt, and two eggs beaten very- 
 light. Stir well together, line a deep tin pie pan with 
 paste rolled moderately thick, sift a little flour evenly 
 over the bottom, and fill about three quarters full with 
 the prepared mixture. Bake until the pie is brown in 
 the center, serve cool or cold. The quality of pumpkin 
 pie depends largely upon the manner of cooking the 
 pumpkin. In preparing the pumpkin use very little 
 water. Cover the ketde, in which it is cooking, closely, 
 and stew until the pumpkin is perfectly soft, then 
 remove the cover and continue the stewing, stirring 
 frequendy until the moisture evaporates and the 
 pumpkin becomes a smooth paste. Rub through a fine 
 sieve and use for filling the pie crust or paste. 
 
 Sweet Potato Pie. — To two cups of boiled sweet 
 potato, rubbed through a sieve, add two tablespoonfuls 
 each of butter and lemon juice, a cup of sugar in which 
 
222 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 have been mixed half the grated rind of a lemon, a table- 
 spoonful each of ginger and cinnamon, a level teaspoon- 
 ful of salt, and a fourth of a nutmeg grated. Stir all 
 well together, add gradually two cups of milk and the 
 beaten yolks of three eggs, and lastly add the whites of 
 the eggs beaten stiff. Fit the paste to the pie pan, dust 
 it with flour, fill, and bake as directed for pumpkin pie. 
 
 White potato may be used in the same manner as 
 sweet potato for making pie. 
 
 Squash Pie. — To two cups of steamed squash, rubbed 
 through a sieve, add one tablespoon ful each of butter, 
 ginger, and cinnamon, half a teaspoonful of salt, a fourth 
 of a grated nutmeg, one cup of sugar, two cups of hot 
 milk, and three eggs, beaten light. Make, bake, and 
 serve like pumpkin pie. 
 
 Custard Pie. — To half a cup granulated sugar add one 
 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mix well, stir it into two 
 cups of milk, boiling hot, and simmer five minutes. 
 When cool add three well-beaten eggs and a pinch of 
 salt. Line a deep pie pan with paste, dust with flour, 
 and fill three quarters full with the mixture. Bake in a 
 moderate oven until firm in the center. Grate nutmeg 
 over the top and serve cool. 
 
 Lemon Pie No. i. — Half a cup of lemon juice, a cup 
 and a half of granulated sugar, quarter of a cup of 
 butter, three eggs, grated peel of a lemon, one cup of 
 Bread Crumbs No. 2, or stale sponge cake crumbs. 
 Strain the lemon juice over the crumbs and soak half an 
 hour, cream the butter, add gradually half the sugar, 
 then, one at a time, the yolks of the eggs, then the bal- 
 ance of the sugar, with the lemon peel, and a pinch of 
 
Pastry and Pie. 223 
 
 salt. With a fork mix the crumbs well with the lemon 
 juice, and stir them into the butter and sugar, beating 
 them well, then add the whites of the eggs, beaten stiff. 
 Bake and serve like custard pie. 
 
 Lemon Pie No. 2. — Two cups of boiling water, a cup 
 and a half of sugar, half a cup of lemon juice, a table- 
 spoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of cornstarch, grated 
 peel of a lemon, three eggs. Mix the sugar and corn- 
 starch well together, add them to the boiling water, and 
 cook five minutes. Remove from the fire, add the but- 
 ter, lemon juice, and peel, and lastly the eggs, beaten 
 very light. Line a deep pie pan with paste, dust with 
 flour, fill three fourths full with the mixture, and bake in 
 a moderate oven till firm in the center. When cold sift 
 powdered sugar over it and serve. 
 
 Orange Pie. — Follow the directions given for lemon 
 pie, substituting orange peel for lemon peel. 
 
 Vanilla Cream Pie. — Mix together a tablespoonful of 
 cornstarch and half a cup of granulated sugar, and add 
 two cups of boiling milk. Cook five minutes, then 
 add slowly, stirring rapidly while adding, three well- 
 beaten eggs. Continue the cooking about half a minute, 
 or until the ^^% is delicately cooked but not curdled, 
 then remove from the fire and stir into the mixture a 
 tablespoonful of butter. When the butter is perfectly 
 mixed with the custard add a teaspoonful of vanilla, and 
 pour into a freshly baked tart shell. 
 
 Orange cream pie and lemon cream pie may be made 
 by using orange or lemon extract in place of vanilla, 
 and following in all other respects the formula for vanilla 
 cream pie. 
 
224 "^^^ ^^^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 Tart Shells. — Line a deep pie pan with flaky pie 
 crust, cover it with paraffine paper, fill with bread, cut 
 in dice, or with almond shells, to keep the paper and 
 crust in place, and bake. Lift out the paper, and fill the 
 shell with any cream or tart mixture desired. The diced 
 bread after being browned in the tart shell can be used in 
 soups, or stewed tomatoes, or may be rolled into crumbs. 
 
 Cranberry Tart. — To a quart of cranberries add a 
 pint of boiling water, cover closely, and boil rapidly for 
 about five minutes, or until the berries burst. Rub 
 through a sieve, return the pulp to the sauce-pan, add 
 two cups of granulated sugar and a pinch of salt, cook 
 two minutes after it boils, pour into hot tart shells, and 
 serve when cool. 
 
 Apple Tart. — Cook the apples as directed in stewing, 
 page 95, rub through a sieve, return to the sauce-pan, 
 add sugar to taste, a pinch of salt, and such flavoring as 
 liked, fill hot tart shells, and serve when cool. Orange, 
 lemon, and pine-apple are excellent combined with apples 
 for making tarts. And tarts from nearly all kinds of fruits 
 may be prepared after the formulas for cranberry and 
 apple tarts, merely varying the quantity of water and 
 sugar to suit the conditions of the diflerent fruits. 
 
 Beefsteak Pie. — Line the sides of a pudding dish 
 with suet pastry, and fill three fourths full with beef- 
 steak, diced, minced, or hashed, and seasoned to taste. 
 With every cup of prepared meat mix a level teaspoon- 
 ful of flour. Bake until the pie is cooked. 
 
 Scrap Meat Pie. — Line the sides of a baking dish 
 with paste, and fill three quarters full with odds and 
 ends of cold cooked meat — chicken, beef, veal, lamb, 
 
Pastry and Pie. 225 
 
 etc. — from which the skin, gristle, and objectionable bones 
 have been removed. Cook together in a sauce-pan one 
 tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
 add two cups of mixed stock, simmer five minutes or until 
 smooth, season to taste, and pour over the prepared scrap 
 meat in the pie. Cover with paste, and bake until the 
 crust is cooked. Thinly sliced uncooked, or thickly sliced 
 cooked, potato may be added to the meat, if desired. 
 
 Baked Chicken Pie. — Cover the bottom and sides of 
 a baking dish with flaky pie crust, or with Baking Pow- 
 der Biscuit Dough No. 2. Fill with white tissue paper, 
 or with clean white rags, and cover with crust. Do not 
 pinch the edges together. Bake until well cooked. Lift 
 off the top crust, take out the paper or rags, fill the shell 
 with stewed chicken, replace the top crust, and serve. 
 
 Oyster Pie. — Prepare and bake the crust as for chicken 
 pie, and fill with stewed or creamed oysters. 
 
 Sweetbread and Mushroom Pie. — Prepare and bake 
 the crust as for chicken pie, and fill with stewed sweet- 
 breads and mushrooms. 
 
 In a similar manner pies may be made and filled with 
 any meat, poultry, game, fish, or shell fish mixture suit- 
 able for filling patty cases or timbales, or for serving as 
 entrees. 
 
 Fish Pie. — Line the sides of a buttered baking dish 
 with mashed potato, half an inch thick, and fill the dish 
 three fourths full with any cold fresh fish, either boiled 
 or baked, freed from skin and bones, and pour over the 
 fish enough drawn butter, parsley, or White Sauce No. 
 4 to moisten and enrich it. Bake in a moderate oven 
 half an hour, or until thoroughly heated. 
 
226 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 English Meat Pie. — Line a baking dish with Baking 
 Powder Biscuit Dough No. 2. Fill it with thin strips of 
 cold meat, either turkey, chicken, game, veal, or lamb, 
 or with a combination of these meats. Use also a small 
 portion of boiled ham or tongue for flavor and decorative 
 effect. Lay the meat in the pie in such position that 
 in cutting the pie the cuts will be across the strips of 
 meat, and not parallel with them, and lay a strip of dark 
 meat beside and upon a strip of white meat. Fill the 
 interstices with cooked mushrooms, sweetbreads, and 
 hard-boiled eggs, cut in dice. Minced parsley or a few 
 capers, if liked, may also be used. Roll the top crust 
 twice the thickness of ordinary pie crust, and cut from 
 the center, but do not remove until the pie is baked, a 
 piece of the paste about an inch square. Bake in a 
 moderate oven until the crust is thoroughly cooked and 
 nicely browned. When cold remove the square piece of 
 crust cut from the center, and fill the pie with aspic jelly, 
 which is liquid, but not warm. Set on ice, or in a cold 
 place, ten or twelve hours. Cut in slices an inch thick, 
 and serve for breakfast, luncheon, or picnics. 
 
 Chicken Patties. — Warm puff paste patty cases and 
 fill with creamed chicken. 
 
 Oyster Patties. — Warm puff paste patty cases and 
 fill with creamed oyster. 
 
 Sweetbread patties are made by filling patty cases 
 with creamed sweetbreads, mushroom patties by filling 
 them with stewed mushrooms, and mock terrapin patties 
 by filling them with mock terrapin. Creamed celery, 
 creamed asparagus, and green peas may also be used for 
 filling patty cases. 
 
CHAPTER XVIT. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Puddings can be classified as legitimately as soups, 
 salads, or sauces, and the subject of pudding-making is 
 materially simplified when puddings are divided into 
 three classes, quite different in character, and arranged 
 in the following order : 
 
 Class I. — Junkets and Blanc-Manges. 
 
 Class 2. — Custards, Souffles, Batter, Rice, Sago, 
 Tapioca, and Bread Puddings. 
 
 Class J. — Roly-Polies, Dumplings, Fruit and Mixed 
 Puddings. 
 
 But even with the aid of such classification one may 
 find difficulty in determining what puddings require the 
 addition of a sauce, and what the character of the sauce 
 should be. This must be decided by the nature and 
 composition of the pudding. If a pudding seems per- 
 fect in flavor and complete in itself, it needs no sauce of 
 any kind ; but if it lacks flavor or sweetness or moisture, 
 a spicy, a sweet, or a liquid sauce should be served with 
 it. A pudding sauce should always be in contrast to the 
 pudding. It should either enrich the pudding or relieve 
 it from over-sweetness. A sweet pudding may be im- 
 proved by a plain cream sauce, or by one composed 
 largely of orange or some other slightly acid fruit juice. 
 
 This law of contrast may be illustrated by a simple 
 
 227 
 
228 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 batter pudding, which being a plain pudding with no 
 decided flavor, needs a rich, highly flavored sauce. And 
 as it is neither very dry nor very soft, either a hard or 
 liquid sauce is suitable to serve with it. Such a pudding 
 will also admit of a great variety of flavors. 
 
 CLASS I. 
 
 Junket No. i. — Set sweet milk at a temperature of 
 seventy-five degrees until it thickens or becomes ' * clab- 
 ber. ' ' Then place on ice until perfectly chilled. Serve 
 with sugar, or mace sugar, and thin cream. Junket is 
 frequently called ' ' curds and whey. ' ' 
 
 Junket No. 2. — Sweeten and flavor to taste a quart of 
 sweet milk. Heat until lukewarm and then add to it 
 the quantity directed on the package of either liquid or 
 powdered rennet. Let the mixture stand in a moder- 
 ately warm place until it stiffens or "sets," then place on 
 ice till chilled, and serve like Junket No. i. 
 
 If only the whey is wanted, cut the curds into dice, 
 with a silver knife, and strain ofl" the liquid. 
 
 Cottage Cheese. — Heat clabber very gently to ninety- 
 eight or 100 degrees, put in a cheese-cloth bag, and hang 
 to drain over night, or for several hours. When well 
 drained season to taste with salt, and enrich with sweet 
 cream, or a little butter, mixing it thoroughly with the 
 curds. Serve cold. Cottage cheese is known in some 
 sections as "smear-case." 
 
 Sea Moss Blanc-Mange. — Wash a small handful of 
 sea moss, Irish moss, or Iceland moss, free from sand and 
 dust. Soak in cold water for half an hour, then put it 
 in a quart of boiling milk, and let steep at boiling heat 
 
Puddings. 229 
 
 for twenty or thirty minutes. Test it by putting a spoon- 
 ful to cool, and if it stiffens like jelly it has steeped 
 long enough. When sufficiently steeped drain off the 
 liquid, and sweeten and flavor to taste. Serve cold, 
 with or without cream. 
 
 Cornstarch Blanc-Mange No. i To two cups of 
 
 boiling milk add half a cup of cornstarch, wet with half 
 a cup of cold milk. Season to taste with salt, cook for 
 ten minutes, and cool in cups or molds wet with cold 
 water. Serve cold with sweet cream, boiled custard, or 
 crushed or preserved fruit. 
 
 Cornstarch Blanc-Mange No. 2.— To two cups of boil- 
 ing milk add one fourth of a cup of cornstarch mixed 
 with the same quantity of granulated sugar, and salt to 
 taste. Cook ten minutes, add the well-beaten yolks of 
 two eggs, continue the cooking a couple of minutes, 
 then remove from the fire, beat into the mixture the 
 whites of the eggs beaten stiff, and lasdy add a tea- 
 spoonful of extract of vanilla. Cool in molds wet with 
 cold water, and serve with cream. 
 
 Arrow-root Blanc-Mange — Use arrow-root in place 
 of cornstarch, and follow either recipe for making corn- 
 starch blanc-mange. 
 
 Farina Blanc-Mange.— To five cups of boiling milk 
 add half a cup of farina — sprinkling it in slowly and 
 stirring to prevent the formation of lumps — and a level 
 teaspoonful of salt. Simmer gendy half an hour, put 
 in molds, and let cool. Serve with sugar and cream, or 
 with fruit or boiled custard. 
 
 Rolled Wheat Blanc-Mange.— To four cups of boiling 
 milk or water, or two cups of each mixed together, add 
 
230 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 one cup of rolled wheat and one level teaspoonful of salt. 
 Sprinkle in the wheat and stir till well mixed, then cover 
 closely and cook gently for an hour and a half. Serve 
 cold with sugar and cream. 
 
 Farinose Blanc-Mange. — To four cups of boiling milk 
 add half a cup of farinose, and proceed as in making 
 farina blanc-mange. 
 
 CLASS 2. 
 
 Boiled Custard No. i. — Heat to boiling point two 
 cups of sweet milk, to which have been added half a cup 
 of caramel and a pinch of salt. Stir into it the yolks of 
 four eggs beaten very light with one tablespoonful of 
 cold milk. As soon as the ^%% is cooked remove from 
 the fire, pour into a cold bowl, and stir for a minute to 
 prevent curdling. When quite cold whip the whites of 
 the eggs stiff", and beat into the custard. 
 
 Boiled Custard No. 2. — To two cups of boiling milk 
 add a pinch of salt and the yolks of four eggs, beaten 
 very light with one tablespoonful of cold milk. As soon 
 as the ^^^ stiffens pour it into a cold bowl and stir a 
 minute to prevent curdling. Beat the whites of the eggs 
 stiff, add gradually four tablespoonfuls of pulverized 
 sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. When the 
 custard is cold add the beaten eggs and sugar, whip all 
 well together, and set on ice until ready to serve. 
 
 Boiled Custard No. 3. — To two cups of boiling milk 
 add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of flour mixed 
 with four tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. Cook ten 
 minutes, add the yolks of three eggs beaten light with 
 one tablespoonful of cold milk, and as soon as the q.%% 
 
Puddings. 231 
 
 stiffens pour out, flavor to taste with vanilla, orange, 
 lemon, pistachio, almond, mace, or nutmeg, and when 
 cold add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 
 
 Boiled Custard No. 4. — To three cups of boiling milk 
 add two tablespoonfuls of flour, four tablespoonfuls of 
 granulated sugar, and a pinch of salt, well mixed to- 
 gether. Simmer ten minutes, then add slowly — stirring 
 rapidly meanwhile — the yolks of three eggs beaten light 
 with one tablespoonful of cold milk. As soon as the 
 ^^^ is cooked to a creamy consistency pour out, and 
 when cool flavor to taste and pour into a glass or china 
 bowl. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, drop 
 it, in large spoonfuls, upon boiling water in a shallow 
 pan, and when cooked lift with a skimmer to a sieve, 
 and place upon the boiled custard. This preparation, 
 which is sometimes called "floating island," is frequently 
 made by putting the beaten whites of the eggs in a china 
 dish and pouring the boiling custard over them. 
 
 There is a decided advantage in using more or less 
 flour in making a boiled custard. But whenever flour, 
 cornstarch, or arrow-root is lised in conjunction with ^^%, 
 it should be well cooked before the ^%% is added, and 
 the mixture should be removed from the fire as soon as 
 the ^^% is cooked to a creamy consistency. Flour has 
 a richer flavor than cornstarch or arrow-root, and is 
 preferable to either in all liquid or semi-liquid sauces or 
 custards. But in mixtures for lemon, cream, or custard 
 pies it is better to use cornstarch or arrow-root, as they 
 cause them to stiffen like jelly when cold. 
 
 Baked Custard. — To two cups of rich milk add a 
 pinch of salt and four eggs beaten with four tablespoon- 
 
232 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 fuls of sugar. Stir well together, pour into cups brushed 
 with melted butter, or into a pudding dish, bake in a 
 pan of water, in a slow oven, or cook in a steamer. As 
 soon as the custard becomes stiff in the center it is suffi- 
 ciently done, and should be removed from the oven, as 
 over-cooking will harden the ^^^ and produce whey. 
 
 Caramel Custard. — Use half a cup of caramel to four 
 eggs, instead of sugar, and follow the recipe for baked 
 custard. 
 
 Baked Sago Custard. — Sprinkle carefully into two 
 cups of boiling milk one fourth of a cup of sago. 
 Simmer ten minutes, add a fourth of a teaspoonful of 
 salt, and half a cup of granulated sugar. Let it cool 
 slightly, add two well-beaten eggs, flavor with lemon or 
 orange extract, pour into a buttered baking dish, and 
 bake, like custard, in a moderate oven. Serve cold, 
 with or without cream. 
 
 Baked Tapioca Custard. — To three cups of boiling 
 milk add half a cup of tapioca that has been soaked 
 several hours in cold water and drained. Cook until 
 the tapioca is transparent, then add half a cup of sugar 
 and half a teaspoonful of salt. Let stand until it be- 
 comes lukewarm, add three eggs, well beaten, flavor 
 with lemon or orange extract, and bake, like custard, in 
 a buttered pudding dish. Serve cold with sweet cream. 
 
 Baked Corn-meal Pudding No. i. — To one cup of well- 
 boiled corn-meal mush add one teaspoonful of butter, and 
 one teaspoonful of ginger mixed with two tablespoonfuls 
 of granulated sugar. Stir in gradually one cup of sweet 
 milk, then add two well-beaten eggs. Bake in a buttered 
 pudding dish until it is firm in the center, and remove 
 
Puddings. 233 
 
 from the oven before it is wheyed. Serve warm, with 
 sweet cream. 
 
 Baked Corn-meal Pudding No. 2. — To one cup of 
 granulated white corn-meal add one cup of boiling milk 
 or water, one tablespoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful 
 of salt, and, gradually, one cup of cold milk. Butter a 
 shallow pudding dish with apples pared, cored, and 
 sliced thin, pour the batter over them, and bake slowly 
 for an hour. Serve warm, with sugar and sweet cream. 
 
 Souffle Pudding. — To two cups of milk add one 
 tablespoonful of cornstarch, mixed with one tablespoon- 
 ful of granulated sugar. Cook ten minutes, remove 
 from the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter and a pinch 
 of salt, and, when cool, the well-beaten yolks of four 
 eggs, and lastly fold into the mixture the whites of the 
 eggs beaten stiff. Half fill cups that have been brushed 
 with clarified butter, or olive oil, and bake like custard, 
 in water, in a moderate oven, until stiff in the center. 
 Serve hot with caramel sauce, liquid sauce, or Foamy 
 Sauce No. i or No. 2. 
 
 Steamed Batter Pudding. — Stir one third of a cup of 
 butter to a cream, add gradually half a cup of sugar, 
 then one ^'g^, and another half cup of sugar with a pinch 
 of salt, then alternately, a little at a time, one cup of 
 milk and two cups of flour, and lastly sift in a third of a 
 cup of flour into which two teaspoonfuls of baking 
 powder have been mixed. Beat all well together, and 
 steam in pudding molds two hours, or in small cups half 
 an hour. The molds should not be more than two thirds 
 full when put in the steamer. Serve with liquid, lemon, 
 or strawberry sauce. 
 
234 ^^^^ ^^^ ^f (Cookery. 
 
 French Pudding. — To one cup of Bread Crumbs No. 
 I add one cup of sweet milk. Stir well together and let 
 soak an hour. Mash smooth with a fork, add two eggs 
 beaten together, half a teaspoonful of salt, and gradually 
 one cup of milk. Bake in a moderate oven, in a but- 
 tered pudding dish, or in cups, until firm in the center. 
 Serve with liquid, orange, or strawberry sauce. 
 
 Creamed Rice. — To two cups of boiling milk add two 
 cups of well-boiled rice which has been drained. Add 
 salt, if necessary, and sugar to taste. While boiling add 
 the yolks of two eggs beaten with a tablespoonful of 
 milk, and, as soon as the ^^% is lightly cooked, remove 
 from the fire. When cold flavor with vanilla, orange, 
 lemon, mace, or nutmeg. Whip the whites of the eggs 
 stiff, add a tablespoonful of sugar, and pile on top of the 
 rice. Serve in a bowl, or in individual dishes. 
 
 Creamed Sago. — To two cups of boiling milk add 
 half a cup of sago by sprinkling in slowly and stirring it 
 smooth. Add half a teaspoonful of salt and half a cup 
 of sugar, and cook gently fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth and put -in a 
 china bowl or dish. Beat the yolks with a tablespoonful 
 of milk, and add to the pudding, and when cooked to 
 a creamy consistency pour the boiling mixture over the 
 beaten whites in the bowl, which will rise to the surface, 
 slightly cooked. Dust with mace or grated nutmeg, 
 and serve cold. 
 
 Creamed Tapioca. — Soak a cup of tapioca in two cups 
 of cold water for several hours. Drain, and put it into 
 two cups of boiling milk, with a cup of sugar and half a 
 teaspoonful of salt. Simmer gently for fifteen minutes. 
 
Puddings. 235 
 
 or until the tapioca is transparent, then add two eggs 
 beaten very light, cook until creamy, and when cold 
 flavor with vanilla. 
 
 Suet Pudding. — Prepare like suet pastry, and mold 
 with the tips of the fingers into an oval-shaped loaf, 
 about three times as long as wide. Wring a napkin 
 from hot water, dust with flour, lay the loaf upon it, fold 
 the napkin up over the loaf, place in a steamer, and cook 
 an hour and a half Serve with liquid or transparent 
 sauce, from which the butter has been omitted, or with 
 raisin or cherry sauce. 
 
 Steamed Pudding No. i. — Sift together two teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking powder, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
 two cups of flour. Rub into it two tablespoonfuls of 
 butter. Add three fourths of a cup of milk, or enough 
 to make a soft dough. Dust the molding board with 
 flour, form into an oval-shaped loaf with the finger-tips, 
 and steam, like suet pudding, for an hour and a half. 
 Serve hot, with any pudding sauce preferred. 
 
 Steamed Pudding No. 2. — Omit the butter, use thin 
 cream for wetting, and make in all other respects like 
 Steamed Pudding No. i. 
 
 Steamed Pudding No. 3. — Sift together two cups of 
 flour, one even. teaspoonful of soda, and half a teaspoon- 
 ful of salt. Add a cup of sour cream, stir until perfectly 
 mixed, then fill a buttered pudding bowl about two thirds 
 full of the batter, and steam an hour and a half Serve 
 hot, with liquid, foamy, or fruit sauce. Sour milk can 
 be used instead of cream for making this pudding, if a 
 spoonful of butter be mixed with the flour. 
 
 Steamed Pudding No. 4. — Sift together two cups of 
 
236 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and half a 
 teaspoonful of salt. Mix with it three tablespoonfuls of 
 butter, three eggs, well beaten, and sufficient milk to 
 make a dough soft enough to drop from the spoon. Fill 
 a buttered pudding mold three fourths full of the dough 
 and steam an hour and a half. Serve with any pudding 
 sauce desired. 
 
 CLASS 3. 
 
 Steamed Fruit Pudding. — Prepare like batter pudding 
 or Steamed Pudding No. 4, and add one cup of seeded 
 raisins, or minced citron, or dried currants, or one cup 
 of a mixture of all three, well dusted with flour. Steam 
 two hours. 
 
 Steamed Apple Pudding No. i. — Sift together two 
 cups of flour, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and 
 half a teaspoonful of salt. Cream three tablespoonfuls 
 of butter, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and two 
 eggs, then add the prepared flour and one cup of milk, 
 alternately, a little at a time — lastly stir in two cups of 
 apples, pared, quartered, cored, and sliced thin. Steam 
 an hour and a half Serve with creamed butter and 
 sugar, or with liquid sauce. 
 
 Steamed Apple Pudding No. 2. — Prepare like Steamed 
 Pudding No. 3, and stir into it two cups of apples pared, 
 quartered, cored, and sliced thin. Steam an hour and a 
 half 
 
 Steamed Cherry Pudding. — Prepare the batter as for 
 Steamed Pudding No. i. Stir Into it one cup of un- 
 seeded cherries, mixed with a fourth of a cup of flour, 
 and the same of granulated sugar. Steam an hour and 
 
Puddings. 237 
 
 a half, and serve with creamed butter and sugar, or with 
 liquid sauce. 
 
 Steamed blackberry pudding can be made, cooked, 
 and served like steamed cherry pudding. 
 
 Steamed Huckleberry Pudding. — Prepare the batter 
 as for Steamed Apple Pudding No. i, and add in place 
 of apples one cup of huckleberries, picked over, washed, 
 and mixed with a quarter of a cup of flour. 
 
 Apple Roly-Poly. — Prepare the paste as for suet pud- 
 ding, or for Steamed Pudding No. i. Lay on a molding 
 board well dusted with flour. Dust the paste with flour, 
 and roll down until not more than a third of an inch in 
 thickness. Cover it thickly with apples prepared as for 
 Steamed Apple Pudding No. i, and dust generously 
 with flour and sugar mixed together in equal propor- 
 tions. Begin at one end and roll into an oval-shaped 
 loaf. Pinch the paste securely together at the ends and 
 over the top, place in a napkin, and steam an hour and 
 a half. 
 
 Roly-poly can be made of any kind of fruit — cooked 
 or uncooked — in a similar manner, care being taken to 
 use more or less flour and sugar with the fruit, according 
 to its juiciness and acidity. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding No. i. — Butter slices of 
 stale bread thinly on both sides, and cover the bottom of 
 a shallow baking dish with them. Pour as much sweet 
 milk over the bread as it will absorb, then pour over it a 
 custard, prepared like Baked Custard No. i. Bake in 
 a moderate oven until firm in the center, and nicely 
 browned over the surface. Dust with mace or nutmeg, 
 and serve cold. 
 
238 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding No. 2. — Prepare and bake 
 like Bread and Butter Pudding No. i, but omit the 
 sugar from the custard, and the mace or nutmeg from 
 the baked pudding. Serve hot, with creamed butter 
 and sugar, or liquid or foamy sauce. 
 
 Baked Tapioca Pudding. — Butter a quart pudding 
 dish, cover the bottom with tart apples, pared and cored, 
 and pour over them a cup of tapioca that has been 
 soaked for several hours and drained. Add a dust of 
 salt and a cup of boiling water. Sift a tablespoonful of 
 granulated sugar over the top of the pudding, and bake 
 until the tapioca is transparent and the apples are 
 cooked and a light brown color. Serve warm or cold, 
 as preferred, with sugar and cream. 
 
 Baked sago pudding can be made in a similar manner, 
 using sago instead of tapioca. 
 
 Peach or apricot tapioca pudding can be made like 
 apple tapioca pudding, by using peaches or apricots, in 
 place of apples. 
 
 Fruit and Rice Puddings. — Rice is frequently baked 
 with eggs and fruit in a variety of puddings ; but the 
 best and most palatable preparations of rice and fruit are 
 those where the rice is perfectly cooked, without any 
 fruit being added, and the fruit, either baked, stewed, or 
 preserved, is served with the rice, with or without a 
 sauce. 
 
 Fruit and Bread Puddings. — A great number of pud- 
 dings can be made by combining bread in various forms 
 with many varieties of fruit. The principle involved is 
 illustrated in the following formulas : 
 
 Huckleberry Pudding. — Butter enough thin slices of 
 
Puddings. 239 
 
 bread to half fill a china bowl or dish. Stew enough 
 huckleberries to half fill the same and sweeten to taste. 
 Place a layer of the buttered bread in the bottom of the 
 dish and cover it with berries, and so add bread and 
 berries alternately, until all the bread is used. Let the 
 last layer of berries be thicker than any of the other 
 layers, and pour over it whatever juice remains, or 
 enough of it to fill the dish or bowl. Cover the pudding, 
 and set away to cool. Serve with sweet cream. 
 
 Any fresh or dried fruit of fine flavor, that is abun- 
 dantly juicy, can be made into simple, palatable puddings 
 in a similar manner. 
 
 Baked Apple Pudding No. i. — Cover the bottom of a 
 buttered pudding dish with quarters of sour apples that 
 have been pared and cored. Dust lightly with salt, and 
 lay over them slices of stale bread that have been soaked 
 in cold water until thoroughly saturated. Place a layer 
 of quarters of apples upon the moist bread and cover 
 thickly with Bread Crumbs No. 2, moistened lightly with 
 melted butter. Sift two tablespoonfuls of granulated 
 sugar over the apples, cover with a buttered pie pan or 
 tin cover, and bake in a moderate oven for half an hour, 
 or until the apples are soft, then remove the cover, let 
 the pudding brown, and serve warm with creamed butter 
 and sugar, foamy, or liquid sauce. 
 
 Baked Apple Pudding No. 2. — Cover the bottom of a 
 buttered, quart pudding dish with quarters of apples. 
 Dust lightly with salt, cover with Bread Crumbs No. 2, 
 moistened with melted butter, and dust with cinnamon 
 and ginger. Add another layer of apples, dust as 
 before with cinnamon and ginger, pour over the pudding 
 
240 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 half a cup of New Orleans molasses mixed with an equal 
 quantity of warm water, cover with the bread crumbs, 
 place a buttered pie pan over the top, and bake until the 
 apples are soft, then remove the pie pan, brown the 
 pudding, and serve with any sauce preferred. 
 
 Fig Pudding. — Mix together two cups of flour, two 
 teaspoonfuls each of baking powder, cinnamon, and 
 ginger, and half a teaspoonful each of salt, cloves, and 
 mace. Add one cup of minced beef suet, and one cup 
 of chopped figs, rubbing them well through the pre- 
 pared flour, then add one cup of sweet milk, one cup of 
 New Orleans molasses, and three eggs. Stir the mix- 
 ture well, pour into a pudding mold, and steam three 
 hours. 
 
 Plum Pudding No. i. — Prepare like fig pudding, but 
 instead of adding figs add one cup of seeded raisins, 
 half a cup of English currants, half a cup of candied 
 citron sliced thin, and a teaspoonful each of grated 
 orange and lemon peel. Serve with liquid or foamy 
 sauce. 
 
 Plum Pudding No. 2. — Cream three quarters of a 
 cup of butter, add to it one cup of granulated sugar, 
 then the yolks of five eggs, and one cup of flour with 
 which two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon and half a tea- 
 spoonful each of cloves, nutmeg, and salt have been 
 mixed. Add a teaspoonful of lemon juice, one cup 
 each of currants and seeded raisins, half a cup of thinly 
 sliced citron peel, and a cup of flour with which two tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder have been sifted. Add 
 lastly the whites of five eggs, beaten stifl", to which half 
 a cup of granulated sugar has been added. Pour in a 
 
Puddings. 241 
 
 pudding mold, steam five hours, and serve with Foamy- 
 Sauce No. 2. 
 
 Plum Pudding No. 3. — To half a cup of creamed 
 butter add one cup each of granulated sugar, seeded 
 raisins, and English currants, half a cup of sliced citron 
 peel, two cups of Bread Crumbs No. 2, and five un- 
 beaten eggs. Stir in the eggs one at a time, alternating 
 them with the fruit and bread crumbs, add half a tea- 
 spoonful each of salt and grated lemon or orange peel, 
 and half a cup of orange juice, beat all well together, 
 and add two teaspoonfuls of baking powder mixed with 
 a quarter of a cup of flour. Pour into a pudding mold, 
 steam five hours, and serve with any sauce preferred. 
 
 PUDDING SAUCES. 
 
 The sauces used for puddings may be varied in their 
 mixing and seasoning so as seemingly to constitute a 
 great number, but the distinct varieties are very few, and 
 may be classified as : plain cream, whipped cream, mock 
 cream, boiled custard, syrup, mock syrup, creamed but- 
 ter and sugar, foamy sauce, liquid sauce, fruit sauce, and 
 mixed sauce. 
 
 Plain Cream. — When plain cream is used as a pudding 
 sauce it should be of medium richness, and not more 
 than twelve hours old. If not of uniform consistency it 
 should be rendered so by straining through a sieve. 
 
 Whipped Cream. — The most perfect whipped cream is 
 obtained from cream of medium richness. If the cream 
 used for whipping is too thin, a froth will be produced 
 upon the surface by whipping, but the whole mass will 
 not become, as it should, a thick, light mixture ; and 
 
242 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 if too thick and rich it will stiffen by whipping, but will 
 lack lightness and delicacy. A Dover beater and an 
 ordinary tin bucket about four inches in diameter make 
 a convenient, cheap, and excellent whipping machine. 
 But in order to whip cream successfully it must be ice 
 cold. Put the cream in the bucket, pack the bucket in 
 broken ice, nearly to the top, and add water to the ice, 
 that it may chill quickly and uniformly. Put the beater 
 also in ice water. When the cream is ice cold whip rap- 
 idly until it is stiff all through, then remove the beater, 
 cover the bucket, and put it in a cold place until the 
 cream is wanted for use. A small quantity of sugar, 
 and any flavoring desired, can be added to the cream 
 before it is whipped. The white of an ^%g can also be 
 added to every cup of cream if it is desired to have it 
 very light and frothy when whipped. One cup of plain 
 cream should make three cups of the best whipped 
 cream. 
 
 Mock Cream. — Cook together until well mixed one 
 teaspoonful of butter and two teaspoonfuls of flour. 
 Add a pint of sweet milk, simmer five minutes, add the 
 yolk of a fresh ^g'g beaten light with a tablespoonful of 
 milk, and cook one minute. Beat the white of the ^%^ 
 stiff, add a tablespoonful of pulverized sugar, and add to 
 mock cream when it is quite cold. Flavor to taste, and 
 serve in place of plain cream. 
 
 Boiled Custard No. 5. — Mix together half a cup of 
 granulated sugar, a pinch of salt, and a tablespoonful of 
 flour. Add to a pint of boiling milk, let simmer five 
 minutes, then add three eggs, beaten very light — adding 
 the eggs slowly, and stirring the mixture rapidly, while 
 
Puddings. 243 
 
 adding. As soon as the eggs stiffen the mixture, re- 
 move from the fire, pour from the sauce-pan, and con- 
 tinue stirring two or three minutes to prevent curdling. 
 When nearly cold flavor to taste. Vanilla is the most 
 delicate flavoring for creams and custards. 
 
 Boiled Custard No. 6. — To a pint of boiling water 
 add three fourths of a cup of granulated sugar, two 
 tablespoonfuls of flour, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of 
 salt, well mixed together.. Simmer five minutes, add 
 slowly the yolks of six eggs, beaten with two table- 
 spoonfuls of cold water — stirring the mixture rapidly 
 while adding the eggs — ^and as soon as it is delicately 
 cooked, remove from the fire and pour from the sauce- 
 pan. When cold add a teaspoonful of vanilla and a cup 
 of whipped cream. Pile in glasses, and serve as a 
 dessert ; or serve as a sauce with snow, rice, or cold 
 apple pudding. 
 
 Syrup. — Add one cup of white, brown, or maple 
 sugar to half a cup of water. Boil five minutes — 
 removing any scum that appears upon the surface — add 
 a pinch of salt, flavor, if desired, and serve either hot or 
 cold. 
 
 Caramel Sauce. — To one cup of granulated sugar add 
 half a cup of water, and boil until the mixture begins to 
 color, then cook slowly, and stir, if necessary, to produce 
 an even or uniform coloring. When of a bright chestnut 
 brown, add half a cup of hot water, cook five minutes, 
 and serve either hot or cold. 
 
 Creamed Butter and Sugar. — Put half a cup of butter 
 into a pint bowl, slightly warmed, and stir with a wooden 
 spoon until it is soft and creamy, then add, a tablespoon- 
 
244 I'h^ ^^i of Cookery. 
 
 ful at a time, one cup of pulverized sugar — stirring the 
 mixture after adding each spoonful of sugar. Flavor 
 with vanilla, orange, lemon, pistachio, or any flavoring 
 liked, and add also, if desired, two or three tablespoon- 
 fuls of sweet cream — a tablespoonful at a time, beating 
 well before adding more. The white of an ^^^^ beaten 
 to a stiff froth, may also be added to give the mixture 
 lightness. By using strawberry, raspberry, or pine-apple 
 juice, instead of cream, a fruit flavor may be given to 
 this sauce. 
 
 Foamy Sauce No. i. — To butter and sugar creamed 
 as directed add two or three tablespoonfuls of boiling 
 milk or water — a spoonful at a time — and beat while 
 adding the boiling liquid. 
 
 Foamy Sauce No. 2. — Mix together a tablespoonful of 
 flour and a cup of granulated sugar, add a cup of 
 boiling water, and simmer five minutes. Heat a pint 
 bowl and a Dover beater. Break a fresh ^^% into the 
 bowl, beat very light, and pour the liquid sauce over the 
 beaten q.^% — ^beating while adding the sauce, then add 
 half a cup of butter beaten to a cream, and flavor to 
 taste. 
 
 Transparent Liquid Sauce. — Follow the directions 
 given for making liquid sauce, but use arrow-root or 
 cornstarch instead of flour, and add the butter without 
 having it beaten to a cream. If transparent sauce is to 
 be served with a rich pudding, omit the butter, if with 
 an apple, or an acid fruit, pudding, omit the lemon 
 juice. 
 
 Orange Sauce. — Mix together a cup of granulated 
 sugar, a tablespoonful of flour, and a teaspoonful of 
 
Puddings. 245 
 
 grated orange peel. Add a cup of hot water, simmer 
 five minutes, remove fi'om the fire, and add the juice of 
 an orange and half a cup of butter, beaten to a cream. 
 
 Lemon Sauce. — Make the same as orange sauce, using 
 lemon peel in place of orange peel, and a teaspoonful of 
 lemon juice in place of the juice of an orange. 
 
 Strawberry Sauce. — Mix a tablespoonful of flour with 
 a cup of granulated sugar, add a cup of hot water, sim- 
 mer five minutes, remove from the fire, and stir into the 
 mixture a cup of crushed strawberries and half a cup of 
 creamed butter. 
 
 Pine-Apple Sauce. — Make the same as strawberry 
 sauce, using grated pine-apple in place of strawberries. 
 
 Banana Sauce. — Make the same as strawberry sauce, 
 using a cup of thinly sliced bananas in place of straw- 
 berries. 
 
 Raisin Sauce. — To a cup of seedless or sultana raisins 
 add four cups of water, cover closely, and cook slowly 
 for two hours. Add a pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of 
 cornstarch, and a cup of granulated sugar mixed to- 
 gether, and simmer five minutes. Remove from the 
 fire, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice, and serve with 
 either plain suet pudding, cottage, or bread and butter 
 pudding, or with boiled rice. 
 
 Sauces for puddings may be made in a similar man- 
 ner from fresh or dried cherries, and from some other 
 fruits. 
 
 Mace Sugar. — Mix together one cup of pulverized 
 sugar and one teaspoonful of ground mace. Serve with 
 boiled rice, clabber, junket, or any simple blanc-mange. 
 
 Liquid Sauce. — Mix together a tablespoonful of flour 
 
246 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 and a cup of granulated sugar, add a cup of boiling 
 water, and simmer five minutes. Add a teaspoonful of 
 lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, a 
 fourth of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and ten drops 
 of extract of ginger mixed together, and lastly whip into 
 the mixture half a cup of butter, beaten to a cream. 
 
CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 CAKE-MAKING. 
 
 Cake-making is so universally practiced that any one 
 who understands the elementary principles of mixing 
 can, with the aid of a few formulas, make an unlimited 
 variety of the different classes of cake. 
 
 All pans in which thick loaves of cake are baked 
 should have a center tube as large at top as bottom, and 
 extending an inch or an inch and a half above the top 
 edges of the pan. A pan made of tin seven inches 
 square and three inches in depth, with a center tube two 
 inches square and four and a half inches deep, is excel- 
 lent for baking cake of all kinds — angel cake included — 
 in loaves. And the tube extending an inch and a half 
 above the pan furnishes the best possible rest for the tin 
 cover which should be used to protect the top of the 
 cake from browning until the cake is perfectly risen. 
 Use buttered paper on the bottom of cake pans, and for 
 all cakes containing butter, sift over the paper a small 
 quantity of flour before putting the cake mixture in the 
 pan. To test whether or not the cake is done, press 
 with the finger lightly upon its surface. If it rebounds 
 when the pressure is removed the cake is sufficiently 
 baked; if it does not, let it remain in the oven until it is 
 baked. 
 
 Angel Cake,— One cup of white of egg, one heaping 
 
 347 
 
248 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 cup of winter wheat flour, one and a half cups of fine 
 granulated sugar, one level teaspoonful cream of tartar, 
 one teaspoonful of almond extract. Eggs vary so much 
 in size that it is better to take a certain measure of 
 the white than a certain number of the eggs. Put 
 the measured whites in an earthen bowl, break lightly 
 with an ^^^ whip, sift in the cream of tartar, and beat 
 until the ^^% will cling to the bowl and not slip out 
 if the bowl is turned upside down, then beat the sugar 
 into the ^^%, sifting it in gradually, add the flavor- 
 ing, and lastly sift in the flour, stirring only enough to 
 combine it with the ^^^ and sugar. Put the mixture in 
 an ungreased pan, the bottom of which has been covered 
 with white paper, place carefully in an oven of moderate 
 temperature, and cover with a baking sheet or tin, so as 
 to protect the top of the cake but not exclude the air. 
 Remove the cover in half an hour — when the cake 
 should be perfectly risen — and bake half an hour longer. 
 When taken from the oven turn the pan bottom upwards, 
 and if it has no center tube rest it upon cups or bowls 
 until the cake is perfectly cold, then remove by slipping 
 a thin-bladed knife between the cake and the sides of the 
 pan. Success in making angel cake depends largely 
 upon having an oven of the proper temperature. If the 
 oven is too warm the cake will be tough. 
 
 Sunshine Cake. — Add the yolks of two or more eggs 
 to the mixture for angel cake, just before sifting in the 
 flour. 
 
 Sponge Cake. — Ten eggs, their weight in fine granu- 
 lated sugar, half their weight in flour, juice and grated 
 rind of a lemon. Break the eggs, separate the whites 
 
Cake- Making. 249 
 
 from the yolks, and reject two of the yolks. Put the 
 eight yolks, with the lemon juice and grated peel, into a 
 bowl and whip very light, with a Dover beater, then 
 beat in gradually two thirds of the sugar. Beat the 
 whites of the eggs stiff, and whip into them the re- 
 maining third of the sugar. Add the yolks to the 
 whites, folding in carefully, then add the flour, sifting it 
 in a little at a time, and mixing it carefully, by folding 
 rather than by beating. Bake in a moderate oven from 
 twenty minutes to an hour, according to the depth of 
 the pans. 
 
 Pound Cake. — One pound each of eggs, butter, sugar, 
 and flour, juice of one lemon, two teaspoonfuls of 
 almond extract. Cream the butter, add gradually two 
 thirds of the sugar, then the yolks of the eggs well 
 beaten with the lemon juice, then the flour, gradually, 
 and stir and beat thoroughly. Whip the whites of the 
 eggs stiff", gradually add the other third of the sugar, 
 and fold into the cake. If baked in a thick cake, cover 
 the pan for half an hour, and bake in a very moderate 
 oven until perfectly risen, then increase the heat slightly 
 for fifteen or twenty minutes, then lessen it until the cake 
 is done. For baking this cake an hour — perhaps a 
 longer time — will be required. 
 
 Rich Fruit Cake. — Make as directed for pound cake, 
 adding a heaping teaspoonful of baking powder to the 
 flour, a pound of raisins, seeded and torn in pieces, a 
 pound of English currants, and half a pound of citron 
 sliced very thin, before folding in the whites of the eggs. 
 Bake in a slow oven two and a half or three hours. 
 
 Delicate Cake, — Three fourths of a cup of butter, one 
 
250 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 cup of white of ^^'g, measured before beating, three 
 cups of flour, two cups of fine granulated sugar, two tea- 
 spoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of orange, 
 lemon, almond, or any flavoring extract liked, and one 
 cup of cold water. Cream the butter, add two thirds of 
 the sugar, then the water and flour into which the bak- 
 ing powder has been sifted, a little at a time, alternating, 
 then the flavoring, and beat well. Whip the whites of 
 the eggs stiff", add the remaining third of the sugar, and 
 fold into the cake lightly. Bake in thick or medium 
 cakes in a moderate oven. If baked in thick loaves cover 
 for half an hour until fully risen, then bake until done. 
 
 Citron Cake. — Add one cup of thinly sliced citron, 
 cut in small pieces, to the delicate cake mixture just 
 before the whites of the eggs are added. 
 
 Nut Cake. — Add a cup of chopped nuts to the cake 
 mixture, or sprinkle chopped nuts thickly over the top 
 of the cake before baking it. 
 
 Ginger Wafers. — One cup of butter, two cups of pul- 
 verized sugar, one cup of cold water, four cups of flour, 
 ginger to taste. Cream the butter, add the sugar and 
 ginger, then stir in the water and flour gradually and 
 alternately. Spread the mixture as thin as possible on 
 a greased baking sheet, 'and bake in a moderate oven. 
 As soon as done cut quickly, and while hot, into squares 
 or diamonds, and roll, if desired. 
 
 Soft Ginger Cake. — Quarter of a cup of butter, half 
 a cup of sugar, half a cup of sour milk, one cup of 
 New Orleans molasses, one tablespoonful of ginger, one 
 teaspoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of soda, half 
 a teaspoonful of salt, and three cups of flour. Sift the 
 
Cake- Making. 251 
 
 soda, salt, and spices with the flour. Cream the butter, 
 add the sugar, then the milk, then the flour and molasses 
 alternately. Beat well and bake in shallow pans in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 Frosting for Cake — Cake frosting is often less orna- 
 mental and attractive than the beautiful brown crust of 
 the cake. Still, frostings have their uses — especially in 
 preserving the texture and flavor of cake that is to be 
 kept for several days. 
 
 White frosting may be ornamented by scattering over 
 its surface, while soft, finely chopped nuts and the green 
 portions of finely chopped candied citron ; or in any 
 manner liked, with sliced or chopped candied fruits. 
 Boiled Frosting No. 3 may be ornamented with either 
 whole or chopped walnut meats. 
 
 Uncooked Frosting. — To one cup of the unbeaten 
 white of Qgg add four cups of the finest pulverized con- 
 fectioner' s sugar. Sift the sugar before measuring, and 
 stroke the measuring cup each time. Beat the mixture 
 with a strong whip, until, as it falls back upon itself, it 
 will remain in a pile until forced to settle by shaking. 
 Flavor with any extract desired, pour upon the cake, 
 and allow it to run over the edges. If sufficiently beaten 
 it will run very slowly, and if spread over the sides with 
 a limber knife, will remain where it is placed. If an 
 ordinary teacup be used this quantity of white of egg 
 and sugar will make sufficient frosting for four medium- 
 sized cakes. A smaller quantity of frosting can be made 
 by using a smaller cup or measure, but care must be 
 taken to preserve these proportions of white of egg and 
 sugar. 
 
252 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Cocoa or grated or melted chocolate can be added to 
 the frosting, if desired, just before spreading upon the 
 cake. 
 
 If the atmosphere is dry, in two or three hours the 
 frosting will cease to stick to the fingers when touched, 
 and will remain soft and creamy below the surface for 
 days — sometimes for weeks. If dried by artificial heat 
 it may be rendered brittle and ruined. 
 
 Boiled Frosting No. i. — To one cup of granulated 
 sugar add half a cup of water, and cook until a spoon- 
 ful of the syrup, when dropped in cold water, can be 
 rolled into a ball of soft candy, then pour it gradually, 
 beating meanwhile, upon the white of an ^^'g beaten 
 stifi*. Continue the beating until the frosting is so stiff it 
 will not run off the cake when poured over it. Flavor 
 to taste. 
 
 Boiled Frosting No. 2. — Make a syrup as in Boiled 
 Frosting No. i. Set the sauce-pan containing it into a 
 large pan of cold water, and let it remain there, covered, 
 until the surface, if touched with the finger, will not 
 adhere to it. Then pour into an earthen bowl, but do 
 not scrape from the sides or bottom of the sauce-pan, 
 and stir with a wooden spoon until it grains and is stiff 
 enough to be formed into a ball. Work and knead un- 
 til smooth, fine-grained, and ready for use. If covered 
 closely, this frosting will keep an indefinite length of 
 time, and when needed can be softened by setting the 
 bowl containing it in a pan of warm water, and stirring 
 it continually, until it becomes soft enough to spread and 
 settle smooth when poured upon the cake. It can be 
 flavored just before being used. 
 
Cake- Making. 253 
 
 Boiled Frosting No. 3. — Put into a sauce-pan one 
 cup of brown sugar, half a cup of water, and a table- 
 spoonful of butter. Boil until a little of the syrup when 
 dropped into cold water can be rolled into a ball, then 
 remove from the fire, stir until it begins to grain, add a 
 teaspoonful of vanilla, and continue stirring until the 
 frosting becomes stiff enough to be poured upon the cake 
 and not run off. 
 
 Chocolate Frosting. — Add to Boiled Frosting No. i, 
 while hot, two or three tablespoonfuls of cocoa or grated 
 chocolate and a teaspoonful of vanilla. 
 
CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 DELICATE DESSERTS. 
 
 A GREAT variety of delicate desserts have gelatine as 
 a base, and are made by combining fruits and fruit juices 
 of different kinds with a certain proportion df gelatine. 
 The principle underlying their preparation is fully illus- 
 trated in the following formulas : 
 
 Grape Jelly. — To one third of a box of gelatine add 
 one cup of cold water and let soak an hour. Then add 
 one cup of hot water, one and a half cups of granulated 
 sugar, strain into a bowl, set in ice water, surrounded 
 with bits of broken ice, and, when slightly cooled, add 
 a cup of Concord grape juice and the juice of a lemon. 
 Let stand until the mixture is jellied, then set on ice 
 until ready to serve. 
 
 Lemon Jelly. — To one third of a box of gelatine add 
 one cup of cold water, soak an hour, add a cup of hot 
 water, half a cup of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of lemon 
 extract, and two cups of granulated sugar. Stir until 
 the sugar is dissolved, then set on ice until jellied and 
 ready to serve. 
 
 When phosphated or acidulated gelatine is used in 
 making lemon jelly or snow pudding omit the juice of 
 one lemon ; when it is used in making jellies, puddings, 
 creams, etc., of other fruits omit the lemon juice entirely. 
 
 Orange Jelly. — To one third of a box of gelatine add 
 
 254 
 
Delicate Desserts. 255 
 
 one cup of cold water, let soak an hour, add half a cup 
 of boiling water, one cup of granulated sugar, one cup 
 of orange juice, the juice of one lemon, and a teaspoon- 
 ful of orange extract. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
 then set on ice until jellied and ready to serve. 
 
 Pine- Apple Jelly. — Prepare the gelatine as above di- 
 rected, add one cup of pine-apple juice, the juice of one 
 lemon, and one and a half cups of granulated sugar. 
 Stir until the sugar is dissolved, strain, set on ice until 
 jellied, and then serve. 
 
 Strawberry Jelly. — Prepare one third of a box of 
 gelatine as before directed, add one cup of strawberry 
 juice, the juice of a lemon, and one and a half cups of 
 granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
 strain, set on ice until jellied, then serve. 
 
 In a similar manner jellies may be prepared from the 
 juice of raspberries, nectarines, peaches, plums, and 
 numerous other berries and fruits. 
 
 Mock Peach Jelly. — Prepare the gelatine as before 
 directed, add the juice of a lemon, two tablespoonfuls 
 of sugar caramel, four drops of almond or peach extract, 
 and one cup of granulated sugar, stir until the sugar is 
 dissolved, strain, set on ice until jellied, then serve. 
 
 Charlotte Russe No. i. — Whipped cream, slightly 
 sweetened and flavored to taste, may be served as Char- 
 lotte Russe — without the addition of gelatine — in shells 
 of cake, baked for the purpose ; or slices of cake may 
 be arranged on the inside of a mold of any desired form, 
 and the mold filled with whipped cream and put on ice 
 till ready to serve. Lady-finger cakes separated, and 
 cut in two, make attractive individual molds when 
 
256 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 arranged in a prettily shaped cup. The pieces of cake 
 can be made to adhere to the cup and retain their 
 position by being slightly moistened with syrup. 
 
 Charlotte Russe No. 2. — To one fourth of a box of 
 gelatine add half a cup of cold water and soak an hour, 
 then add half a cup of hot milk and a tablespoonful of 
 granulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, 
 strain into a two-quart bowl, surrounded with ice and 
 water, and add a cup of cold cream and a teaspoonful 
 of vanilla extract. When the liquid begins to jelly beat 
 vigorously with a Dover egg-beater until it is very light, 
 then add the whites of two eggs beaten light, to which 
 has been added a pinch of salt and two tablespoonfuls of 
 granulated sugar. Remove the beater, and, with a 
 strong whip or a wooden spoon, beat into the mixture 
 a pint of whipped cream. Pour into molds, and set on 
 ice till ready to serve. 
 
 Bavarian Cream. — Prepare like Charlotte Russe No. 
 2, omitting the whipped cream. 
 
 Bavarian Cream with Eggs. — Soak a quarter of a box 
 of gelatine in half a cup of cold water for half an hour. 
 Make a pint of Boiled Custard No. 2. Remove from 
 the fire, and stir the soaked gelatine into it. When cool 
 flavor to taste with vanilla extract, set in ice water, sur- 
 rounded with broken ice, and when it begins to stiffen 
 whip until very light. Add the whites of two eggs 
 beaten stiff, and set on ice until ready to serve. 
 
 Chocolate Bavarian Cream. — Prepare like Charlotte 
 Russe No. 2, but before mixing the hot milk with the 
 soaked gelatine add to it half a cup of grated chocolate, 
 and let simmer until smooth. 
 
Delicate Desserts, 257 
 
 Chopped candies, fruits, and nuts, and stale cake, or 
 macaroons rolled fine, may be mixed with Bavarian 
 creams at pleasure, and thus a great variety of them may 
 be readily prepared. 
 
 Snow Pudding. — Prepare lemon jelly as directed, and 
 when it begins to jelly and is slightly thickened all 
 through, whip with a Dover beater until perfectly light, 
 then add the whites of three eggs beaten stiff, to which 
 has been added a pinch of salt and three tablespoonfuls 
 of granulated sugar. Whip all well together, and set 
 on ice until firm. Serve with Boiled Custard No. 2. 
 
 Orange Pudding. — Prepare as directed for snow pud- 
 ding, using orange jelly in place of lemon jelly. After 
 whipping the whites of the eggs into the mixture, pour 
 it into a mold lined with sections or slices of oranges, 
 arranged according to taste, and set on ice for several 
 hours. Serve with or without cream. 
 
 Banana Pudding, — Prepare a snow pudding from 
 lemon jelly, as directed, omitting the lemon extract, 
 and, when ready to mold, whip into it two cups of thinly 
 sliced bananas. Serve with plain cream. 
 
 Other fruit jellies can be converted into fruit puddings 
 by following the formula given for snow pudding. But 
 most fruit puddings made in this manner, of oranges, 
 strawberries, raspberries, grapes, etc., are better served 
 with cream, either plain or whipped, than with custard. 
 
 Orange Cream. — Prepare as directed for orange pud- 
 ding, and after adding the whites of the eggs, whip into 
 the mixture two cups of whipped cream and two table- 
 spoonfuls of granulated sugar. 
 
 Pine- Apple Cream. — Prepare a pine-apple pudding as 
 
258 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 directed for snow pudding, using pine-apple jelly in 
 place of lemon jelly, and after adding the whites of the 
 eggs, whip into the mixture two cups of whipped cream 
 and two tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar. 
 
 Strawberry Cream. — Prepare as directed for orange 
 cream, using strawberry jelly in place of orange jelly, 
 and after adding the cream mix lightly with it large 
 strawberries, or scatter some berries in the mold, add a 
 covering of cream, scatter more berries, cover again 
 with cream, and so alternate until the mold is filled. 
 
 Various fruit creams can be garnished with fruit in a 
 similar manner — provided the fruit is of the same kind 
 of which the cream is made and is really decorative. 
 
 Banana Cream. — Prepare a banana pudding as di- 
 rected, and after adding the sliced bananas, beat into it 
 two cups of whipped cream. 
 
 Peaches in Jelly. — Prepare a mock peach jelly as 
 directed, and when cold and just beginning to stiffen 
 pour it over freshly cut peaches, in a glass bowl, and, 
 with a silver fork, lightly separate the peaches so that 
 the jelly may be distributed uniformly among them. Set 
 the dish on ice, and, when the jelly is firm, serve with 
 plain or whipped cream. 
 
 Fancy Fruits in Jelly. — Select a mold to correspond 
 in shape with the dish in which the fruit is to be served, 
 and put into it jelly to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
 Set the mold on ice, and when the jelly becomes firm 
 place on it candied fruit, arranged in some pretty design. 
 Cherries may be cut in halves, limes sliced and cut in 
 the shape of leaves, etc. , and each piece of fruit fastened 
 in place with a few drops of liquid jelly. When firm, 
 
Delicate Desserts. 259 
 
 cover the fruit with jelly and let stiffen, and so continue 
 to add fruit and jelly alternately until the mold is filled. 
 Let stand on ice for several hours, and, when ready to 
 serve, dip the mold in warm water, turn out the jelly on 
 a glass dish, and garnish witn a border of whipped 
 cream. 
 
 I 
 
CHAPTER XX. 
 
 SHERBETS, WATER ICES, AND ICE CREAMS. 
 
 Sherbets and water ices are similar in character and 
 are generally considered the same. But ices are always 
 frozen, sherbets are not. Sherbets are prepared by mix- 
 ing broken ice with fruit juice and adding sugar to taste. 
 They are usually served in glasses, with the meat or 
 game course at dinner. 
 
 Mixed Fruit Sherbet. — To half a cup of lemon juice 
 add two cups of granulated sugar, one cup each of pine- 
 apple and strawberry juice, and two cups of water. 
 Serve in glasses half filled with broken ice. 
 
 Lemon Sherbet. — To half a cup of lemon juice add 
 two cups of granulated sugar, and three cups of ice 
 water. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then serve in 
 glasses half filled with broken ice. 
 
 Orange Sherbet. — To two cups of orange juice add 
 three tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and a cup of gran- 
 ulated sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then 
 serve in glasses half filled with broken ice. 
 
 To either lemon or orange sherbet a small quantity of 
 the grated peel, or of the extract of lemon or orange 
 may be added, if liked ; or, if preferred, a few drops of 
 cinnamon or ginger may be used in either sherbet. 
 
 Strawberry Sherbet. — To two cups of strawberry 
 
 juice add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, and two 
 
 260 
 
Sherbets, Water Ices, ayid Ice Creams. 261 
 
 cups of ice water. Sweeten to taste, and serve in glasses 
 half filled with broken ice. Or add a pint of crushed ice 
 to a quart of crushed strawberries, and sweeten to taste. 
 
 Pine- Apple Sherbet. — To two cups of pine-apple juice 
 or pine-apple syrup add two tablespoonfuls of lemon 
 juice, two cups of ice water, and sugar to taste. Stir 
 until the sugar is dissolved, then serve in glasses half 
 filled with broken ice. Or, to two cups of grated pine- 
 apple add two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice and two cups 
 of crushed ice. Sweeten to taste and serve in glasses. 
 
 Lemon Ice. — To four cups of boiling water add two 
 cups of sugar, boil five minutes, remove from the fire, 
 add half a cup of lemon juice and a teaspoonful and a half 
 of lemon extract. Strain, pour into a freezer, and freeze. 
 
 Orange Ice. — To two cups of boiling water add a cup 
 and a half of granulated sugar, boil five minutes, re- 
 move from the fire, add two cups of orange juice, the 
 juice of a lemon, and a teaspoonful and a half of orange 
 extract. Strain, pour into a freezer, and freeze. 
 
 Banana Ice. — To half a cup of lemon juice add two 
 cups of sugar, four cups of water, and a dust of salt. 
 Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then add six bananas 
 sliced very thin. Pour the mixture into a freezer, add 
 the unbeaten whites of two eggs, and freeze. This 
 mixture increases in bulk considerably, and sufficient 
 space should be given it to swell in the freezer. 
 
 Strawberry Ice. — To one cup of strawberry juice or 
 strawberry syrup add the juice of a lemon, and sweeten 
 to taste. Strain, pour into a freezer, and freeze. 
 
 A variety of other fruit juices may be prepared and 
 frozen in a similar way, and served as ices. 
 
262 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Ice Cream No. i. — To one quart of thin cream add 
 three quarters of a cup of granulated sugar and one 
 tablespoonful of vanilla extract. Strain and freeze. 
 
 Ice Cream No. 2. — To one pint of boiling milk add 
 three quarters of a cup of granulated sugar and one 
 tablespoonful of flour, sifted together. Cook five min- 
 utes, add a pint of thin cream, let boil, and remove from 
 the fire. When cold flavor to taste with vanilla or lemon 
 extract, add the unbeaten whites of two eggs, and freeze. 
 
 Ice Cream No. 3. — To one quart of boiling milk add 
 two tablespoonfuls of flour mixed with three quarters of 
 a cup of sugar, and cook five minutes. Add the well- 
 beaten yolks of three eggs, and as soon as the eggs are 
 lightly cooked remove from the fire, add a tablespoonful 
 of butter, and stir until the latter is melted and mixed 
 uniformly with the cream. Flavor to taste, when cold 
 add the whites of the eggs unbeaten, and freeze. 
 
 Strawberry Ice Cream. — Scatter a cup of granulated 
 sugar over two cups of strawberries, and mash and strain 
 them. Add a cup of the strained juice to three cups 
 of ice cold cream, and freeze at once. More sugar can 
 be added to the mixture, if needed, before freezing it. 
 
 Pine- Apple Ice Cream. — To three cups of thin cream, 
 ice cold, add one cup of pine-apple juice or pine-apple 
 syrup, sweeten to taste, and freeze. 
 
 Coffee Ice Cream. — To half a cup of strong coffee 
 add one cup of sugar caramel and four cups of thin 
 cream. Sweeten to taste and freeze. 
 
 The unbeaten whites of eggs may be added to any 
 cream or mixture that is to be frozen, if it is desired to 
 have it lighter. 
 
PART V.-SEASONING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Some edibles are improved in flavor by having salt 
 cooked with them, while others should only be salted 
 when served. It is safe to say that all delicately flavored 
 food is, as a general rule, salted too highly and seasoned 
 too heavily. The more delicate the flavor of an article 
 of food, the more careful one should be not to disguise 
 or destroy it by the use of too liberal a quantity of sugar 
 or salt. Delicately flavored fruits and cereals are often 
 ruined with sugar and salt, as are also white flour bread, 
 graham bread, and corn-bread. Pepper, spices, and 
 other flavoring condiments and extracts are used princi- 
 pally in three capacities— to stimulate and strengthen, to 
 soften and tone down, or to modify and change, the 
 flavor of an article or dish. There is a seeming aflinity 
 between certain foods which makes it appropriate to 
 serve them together. They are so like they blend 
 harmoniously ; or so unlike that one seems the comple- 
 ment of the other, and when mingled produce the best 
 
 results. 
 
 The fact should never be lost sight of that we season 
 food to render it more palatable, digestible, and nutri- 
 tious—not to give the taste of the seasoning to the food, 
 but to render finer and more potent the flavors of the 
 edible seasoned. Each edible, whether fish, flesh, fowl, 
 
 263 
 
264 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 vegetable, fruit, or cereal, should be so cooked and 
 seasoned as to develop its flavor in the greatest degree. 
 Each should be so cooked and seasoned that a first taste 
 would enable one, though blind, by the clear, distinctive 
 flavor, to discover its legitimate place in the animal or 
 vegetable kingdom. The palatability of food — its ap- 
 petizing quality — is of vital importance in rendering it 
 digestible. Food, no matter how simple or nutritious it 
 may be, never perfectly digests and assimilates unless 
 it can be eaten with a relish, and is appetizing and 
 pleasing to the taste. 
 
 Many people are sick because they fail, in a greater or 
 less degree, to assimilate their food, and it ceases to 
 nourish them. An eminent physician when asked, 
 ''What is disease?" replied, "It is the lack of nutri- 
 tion." And his brief reply covers the entire question. 
 Lack of nutrition causes starvation — a disease that may 
 be local or general in its effect — but a disease the only 
 remedy for which is food that can be digested and 
 assimilated. 
 
 But as perplexing and puzzling as may be the problem 
 of nutrition, considered hygienically, it is pretty definitely 
 settled that the flavor of food is of vital importance in 
 aiding its digestion and assimilation. A writer who has 
 given the subject much careful consideration tells us that 
 all edible things are in the most perfect condition for 
 human food when their flavors are finest, and that 
 whether foods should be eaten cooked or uncooked, and 
 also the exact amount of cooking they require, should 
 be determined by the flavor. In other words, no edible 
 whose flavor is not improved by cooking should ever be 
 
Introduction. 265 
 
 subjected to such process, as to cook such edible renders 
 it less digestible and nutritious. The taste for certain 
 articles of diet is very much a matter of education and 
 habit. Our tastes become coarse and vitiated, or 
 cultured and discriminating, in eating and drinking, as 
 they do in other things, by the training they receive. 
 Most people would probably become fond of all food 
 that is wholesome and nutritious, if it were properly 
 cooked and seasoned, and when we are educated in these 
 respects we shall no doubt have the keenest relish for 
 food best adapted to our special needs. We season food 
 mainly to increase or modify its flavor, and as the 
 natural flavor of most foods is exceedingly delicate and 
 very easily destroyed, a tablespoonful of sugar or salt 
 often proves so complete an extinguisher of all flavor 
 as to leave in the mouth only a sweet or a briny taste. 
 Salt is the most common of all seasonings and un- 
 doubtedly the most essential. A small quantity of salt 
 added to the water in which meats, vegetables, etc. , are 
 boiled is supposed to prevent the fiber or texture of the 
 edible being cooked from breaking down or disinte- 
 grating too rapidly. It is also supposed that less of the 
 flavor of the article passes ofl" with the steam when salt 
 is present in boiling water. But the main reason that 
 salt is so universally used in the preparation of food, or 
 added to it when eaten, is, no doubt, because it possesses 
 the power of developing the richest and finest flavors of 
 the edible. When used in this capacity it should be 
 used only to the extent required to induce the edible to 
 yield the flavor that would otherwise remain latent and 
 undiscovered, and the proper quantity required for 
 
266 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 different articles can be determined only by a correct, 
 discriminating taste. 
 
 Next to salt, sugar is perhaps most useful in develop- 
 ing flavors ; and many meats, fish, and shell fish, as well 
 as fi'uits and vegetables, have their flavors improved by 
 its judicious use. In many made dishes, rich soups, 
 and elaborate sauces a great number of things are mixed 
 together, and sometimes twenty or thirty different 
 flavoring principles are in one dish. Yet, like the colors 
 in the rainbow, or the lights and shades in a picture, 
 each one of them is necessary for its completeness. In 
 these complex culinary mixtures, in order that even a 
 moderate degree of excellence may be achieved, three 
 important rules mUst be observed : 
 
 First, the various ingredients must be so chosen as to 
 be harmonious in flavor, or to present only a spicy and 
 piquant contrast. 
 
 Second, they must be introduced into the mixture in 
 a certain specific order. 
 
 Third, the method of combining or mixing the various 
 ingredients must be that best suited to their nature. 
 They must be sliced, mashed, broken, grated, pounded 
 in a mortar, or manipulated in such other ways as ex- 
 perience has proved will cause them to yield the most 
 satisfactory results. 
 
 Nearly all foods have a finer and more intense flavor 
 when freshly cooked and warm. This is true of fruits, 
 as well as of meats, vegetables, etc., and baked and 
 stewed fruits of nearly all kinds, notably apples, damsons, 
 prunes, and cranberries are much richer and more 
 delicate in flavor when freshly cooked and warm, than 
 
Introduction. 267 
 
 when they have been cooked and allowed to become 
 cold. In cooling the flavor Is thrown off and dissipated. 
 And for this reason some few articles of food, the flavor 
 of which is very marked, are relished better cold than 
 warm — their flavor when cold being less pronounced and 
 more delicate. 
 
CHAPTER XXL 
 
 SALAD-MAKING. 
 
 Salad-making, although one of the most important 
 branches of the preparation of food, is, perhaps, less 
 perfectly understood than any other culinary operation. 
 
 Salads, when skilfully made and artistically arranged, 
 are grateful to the taste and pleasing to the sight, and 
 should therefore have a prominent place on bills of fare. 
 The hygienic value of salads can scarcely be over-esti- 
 mated, while their decorative possibilities are almost il- 
 limitable. 
 
 A salad should always be appetizing in a high degree. 
 It should always be refreshing, also. And, whenever 
 possible, attractiveness should be added to these two 
 essentials, so that the useful and ornamental may be com- 
 bined in its preparation. A salad can be made so 
 beautiful as to lend a charm and grace to its surround- 
 ings, and so delicious that, when daintily served, it will 
 go far, of itself, to redeem from utter failure a very ordi- 
 nary dinner. 
 
 There are numberless incongruous mixtures — com- 
 pounded of a variety of things stirred together — that 
 are served, and pass current, in some sections, as salads. 
 But as such compounds are violations of all the laws that 
 govern the mixing and seasoning of food, and set at de- 
 fiance every principle of the culinary art, they cannot be 
 
 classed among legitimate salads. Any one who wishes 
 
 268 
 
Salad- Making , 269 
 
 can make them, but no one of cultured taste will care 
 to do so. 
 
 A dinner salad should rarely, if ever, be heavy or 
 complex. It should be of fresh fruits or vegetables, 
 simply dressed, and delicately served. And the heavy 
 and more complex salads should be served alone, or at a 
 less hearty meal. 
 
 In no department of cookery is a more analytical study 
 of relative flavors needed than in that of salad-making. 
 And the greatest care should be observed in handling 
 salad materials, not to destroy their natural flavors by 
 mixing together those which do not make a harmonious 
 combination, or by using with them an inappropriate, 
 or too highly seasoned, dressing. Each kind of fruit, 
 vegetable, meat, or fish designed for salad-making should 
 be regarded as belonging to a distinct class ; and its 
 peculiar requirements in that direction should be consid- 
 ered, and only such things be mingled, or served, with 
 it as will best develop its especial flavor and render it 
 most appetizing and attractive. 
 
 The dressing of a salad should invariably be suited to 
 the peculiar flavor and condition of that particular salad, 
 and whenever two or more edibles are mingled together 
 in a mixed salad, they should be selected with especial 
 reference to the effect each will have upon the other. 
 
 CLASS I. FRUIT SALADS. 
 
 Many fruits served at breakfast as a relish, and after 
 dinner in the form of dessert, are also frequently served 
 at dinner as a salad, notably among such being straw- 
 berries, currants, and oranges. 
 
270 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 A great variety of salads may be prepared in the same 
 manner from different fruits, but in their preparation 
 it should be borne in mind that when two or more fruits 
 are so mingled, one of them should be chosen with es- 
 pecial reference to giving the mixture flavor, and the 
 others mainly to give it bulk. Pine-apples, bananas, 
 and a dozen other fruits that readily suggest themselves, 
 possess flavor enough to make palatable twice the bulk 
 of less sapid fruit. The distinctive character of finely 
 flavored food-stuffs should not be destroyed or obscured 
 by mingling them together indiscriminately. And there 
 can be no grosser culinary blunder than to combine two 
 highly flavored fruits in one dish. Such a combination 
 is opposed to the principles that govern salad-making, 
 and is a direct violation of the laws of harmony that 
 should control all food preparations. 
 
 Strawberry Salad. — Select large strawberries with 
 long stems. Serve two or three to each guest, on a 
 fancy dish, and place beside each dish a tiny cup con- 
 taining pulverized sugar. 
 
 Currant Salad. — Select perfect stems of large cur- 
 rants, and serve like strawberries. 
 
 Orange Salad. — Select perfect, medium-sized oranges. 
 Wash and wipe them. Divide the peel into rather small 
 sections, at the blossom end, and loosen from the orange 
 about three fourths of its length. Curl in, bend out, or 
 partly cut away, according to fancy, these sections of 
 peel. Carefully remove the thick white covering, leav- 
 ing the delicate skin of the orange pulp unbroken. 
 Separate the sections of orange at the end from which 
 the peel has been removed, and with a fork twist out the 
 
Salad- Making. 271 
 
 core. Pick out the seeds, and serve the prepared 
 orange with a spoonful of whipped cream, sweetened, 
 or oil or cooked mayonnaise dressing, placed in the 
 opening from which the core has been removed. 
 
 Banana Salad No. i. — To half a cup of lemon juice 
 add a cup of granulated sugar. Put six or eight thinly 
 sliced bananas into a glass or china bowl. Pour over 
 them the lemon syrup. Cover closely, and stand the 
 salad in a cold place for an hour before serving. 
 
 Banana Salad No. 2. — To the juice of three oranges 
 and one lemon add a fourth of a box of gelatine soaked 
 an hour in cold water. Warm the mixture until the 
 gelatine is dissolved, add a cup of granulated sugar, 
 and when perfectly cold pour over six thinly sliced 
 bananas. Set the salad on ice until stiff, then serve. 
 
 Banana Salad No. 3. — Skin, cut in halves, and seed 
 half a pound of white grapes. Scoop the pulp from four 
 oranges, keeping it in distinct pieces. Pare and slice 
 four bananas. Put the grapes, orange pulp, and bananas 
 in alternate layers in a glass or china bowl. Squeeze 
 the juice of a lemon into a cup, add to it the orange 
 juice obtained by squeezing the skins after the pulp has 
 been scooped from them, and fill up the cup with water. 
 Pour the liquid over a quarter of a box of gelatine which 
 has soaked for an hour in half a cup of cold water, and 
 warm until the gelatine dissolves, then add a cup of 
 sugar. When cold pour over the mixed fruit in the 
 bowl, and place on ice till stiff enough to serve. 
 
 Pine-Apple Salad. — Skin, cut in halves, and seed 
 half a pound of Malaga grapes. Scoop four oranges. 
 Prepare a cup of pine-apple, or use a cup of shredded 
 
272 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 canned pine-apple. Drain the juice from the fruit, and 
 add to it the juice of a lemon, and a fourth of a box of 
 gelatine soaked an hour in half a cup of cold water. 
 Warm the mixture just enough to melt the gelatine, 
 then strain, and add to it a cup of granulated sugar. 
 Mix the pine-apple, orange pulp, and grapes together in 
 a bowl, and when the jelly is cold mix with the fruit and 
 set the bowl on ice. When it jellies it is ready to serve. 
 
 Apple Salad No. i. — Select mellow, sour apples, pare, 
 core, and slice very thin. To two cups of sliced apples 
 add one cup of chopped walnut meats, and cover with 
 cooked mayonnaise dressing to which has been added 
 one cup of whipped cream, seasoned to taste with sugar 
 and salt. 
 
 Apple Salad No. 2. — Prepare the apples as for Apple 
 Salad No. i , and to three cups of sliced apples add one 
 cup of cream dressing to which has been added a table- 
 spoonful of minced onion. Season to taste with Season- 
 ing No. 2. 
 
 Apple Salad No. 3. — Prepare the apples as in No. i 
 and cover with a cup of whipped cream seasoned with a 
 teaspoonful of sugar and a pinch of salt. 
 
 CLASS 2. — VEGETABLE SALADS. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. — Place the prepared lettuce in the 
 salad bowl and sprinkle over it French Dressing No. i 
 or No. 2, according to taste. Turn it over and about 
 carefully, until each leaf is covered with dressing. 
 Serve on cold plates. Half a cup of dressing will dress 
 lettuce enough for six people. Chicory or endive, and 
 water cress are prepared and served like lettuce. 
 
Salad- Making. 273 
 
 Cucumber Salad. — Select cucumbers of medium size, 
 remove a thick paring, and cut away all green portions. 
 Slice, not too thin, on broken ice, cover closely, let stand 
 half an hour, or until chilled and crisp, then drain the 
 water from the cucumbers and serve them with French 
 dressing. A small quantity of minced onion may be 
 served with them, if liked. 
 
 Cucumbers sprinkled with salt and allowed to stand 
 become tough and indigestible. 
 
 Onion Salad. — Remove the skin from onions, slice as 
 thin as possible, on broken ice, and when chilled and 
 crisp serve with a dressing of vinegar, sugar, salt, and 
 pepper ; or with French dressing, if preferred. 
 
 Some hygienists think sugar assists the digestion of 
 onions, and prevents their imparting an unpleasant odor 
 to the breath. 
 
 Cabbage Salad. — Soak the prepared cabbage in cold 
 water till crisp. Shave thin, and dress with cooked 
 mayonnaise, or with vinegar, seasoned with Seasoning 
 No. 3. 
 
 Celery Salad. — Soak the prepared celery in ice water 
 until chilled and crisp, then dice the white tender 
 portions, and dress with oil mayonnaise dressing. 
 
 Tomato Salad No. i. — Select medium-sized, ripe 
 tomatoes, and with a sharp knife cut off about one third 
 of each tomato. Cut the pulp loose from the skin, and 
 scoop it out, with a teaspoon, without breaking the out- 
 side skin. Fill the cup or shell of each scooped tomato 
 with broken ice. Put the pulp on a plate and, with a 
 silver knife, cut it into large dice. Sprinkle lightly with 
 salt, drain in a sieve, add a teaspoonful each of minced 
 
274 I'h^ ^^^ ^ Cookery. 
 
 onion and oil mayonnaise to each cup of drained tomato, 
 and mix well together. Empty the ice and water from 
 the tomato cups, and fill each cup with the prepared 
 salad. Place on a plate on the crossed stems of two 
 large nasturtium leaves, or on lettuce leaves. Lettuce 
 leaves make a very nice garnish for tomato cups, but are 
 not nearly so dainty as nasturtium leaves. 
 
 Tomato Salad No. 2. — Skin and slice ripe tomatoes in 
 thick slices. Lay on ice till chilled. Serve on cold 
 plates, with French or mayonnaise dressing, or without 
 dressing. Salt, pepper, sugar, and vinegar, as a dressing 
 for tomatoes, is preferred by many. 
 
 Potato Salad No. i. — To one cup of cooked mayon- 
 naise dressing seasoned with Seasoning No. 2, add a 
 tablespoonful each of minced onion and parsley, and a 
 cup of thin cream or milk, stirred in gradually. Pour 
 the mixture over thinly sliced, cold boiled potatoes, and 
 serve with cold meats or boiled fish. 
 
 Potato Salad No. 2. — Dice two or three slices of break- 
 fast bacon, cook in a spider until transparent, add a table- 
 spoonful of minced onion, and cook slowly until it turns 
 yellow. Add two cups of cold boiled potato cut in dice, 
 seasoned with salt and pepper, and with which a table- 
 spoonful of minced parsley has been mixed. Stir lightly 
 together with a fork, cover closely, let simmer for ten 
 minutes, or until the potato is well heated, then add a 
 tablespoonful of vinegar, shake well together, and serve 
 hot. 
 
 Beet Salad No. i. — Boil the beets until very tender, 
 skin, slice thin, put in a sauce-pan, and to each cup of 
 sliced beet add a tablespoonful each of butter and 
 
Salad- Making . 275 
 
 vinegar, with salt and pepper to taste. Heat, shake 
 well together, and serve. 
 
 Carrots, parsnips, and salsify may be prepared and 
 served as salads in precisely the same manner. 
 
 Beet Salad No. 2. — Boil the beets till very tender, 
 remove the skins, and when cold, hash, or cut into dice, 
 and serve with cream dressing, seasoned with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Beet and Potato Salad. — Mix together, with a fork, 
 equal portions of cold boiled beet and potato cut in dice. 
 Serve with cream dressing seasoned with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Cooked spinach, asparagus, and many other green 
 vegetables may be dressed with cream dressing, seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, and served cold as salads. 
 
 CLASS 3. MIXED SALADS. 
 
 Oysters and clams, when served raw as relishes, can 
 scarcely be called salads with strict propriety, but for 
 the sake of convenience they are placed among mixed 
 salads, as are also various other relishes and salads that 
 cannot be legitimately classified as either fruit or vege- 
 table salads. 
 
 Raw Oysters.— Wash the shells of the oysters in cold 
 water, then pack in broken ice till well chilled. Serve 
 on the half shell — from three to five grouped on a plate 
 — and garnish with two or three lemon points. 
 
 Clams and other shell fish that are eaten raw should 
 be served in the same manner. 
 
 Raw oysters are sometimes cut in pieces, mixed with 
 celery, dressed with mayonnaise or French dressing, and 
 
276 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 served as a salad. But as neither the oyster nor celery 
 is improved by such inharmonious combination, an oys- 
 ter salad is not likely to commend itself to popular 
 favor. 
 
 Shrimp Salad. — Put the prepared shrimps — either 
 fresh or canned — in a bowl of broken ice until chilled. 
 Remove the ice and water, put over the shrimps about 
 two tablespoonfuls of French Dressing No. 2 to each 
 cup of shrimps, and place on ice until ready to serve. 
 Arrange dainty cups of crisp lettuce leaves by placing 
 together in the form of a cup three or four medium- 
 sized lettuce leaves. Place from three to five shrimps in 
 each lettuce cup, and serve with French Dressing No. i. 
 
 Lobster Salad. — Prepare and serve lobster in every 
 respect like shrimps, mixing in each lettuce cup some 
 of the diiferent portions of the lobster. 
 
 Mayonnaise dressing may be served instead of French, 
 if preferred, with either shrimp or lobster salad, and 
 water cress may be used in place of lettuce. 
 
 Salmon Salad. — Pick the cooked salmon in pieces 
 suitable for serving. With two cups of prepared salmon 
 mix two cold, hard-boiled eggs chopped fine. Dress 
 with mayonnaise dressing, and serve in lettuce cups or 
 garnished with cresses. 
 
 Any cold boiled, baked, or broiled fish may, with an 
 admixture of hard-boiled eggs, be served in a similar 
 manner as a salad. And, if lacking in flavor, a spoon- 
 ful of capers, or a little finely minced pickle, may be 
 added. 
 
 Lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, and cress can be indis- 
 criminately mixed with fish and shell fish of all kinds in 
 
Salad- Making. 27 7 
 
 the preparation of salads, and are admirably adapted to 
 the purpose. Celery and fish are so inharmonious in 
 flavors that they should not be used in that connection. 
 
 Chicken Salad No. i. — Put four cups of cooked 
 chicken, freed from skin, bones, and coarse pieces, and 
 cut into dice, in an earthen bowl, and pour over it half 
 a cup of French Dressing No. 2. Set in a cold place 
 for an hour, drain through a sieve, mix with it three 
 cups of white, tender celery cut in dice, and add, and 
 mix lightly through it, a cup of oil mayonnaise dressing. 
 Place in the salad bowl — heaping in the center — spread 
 half a cup of mayonnaise dressing over it, sprinkle a 
 spoonful of capers upon the dressing, and garnish with 
 curled celery and water cress ; or with olives, lemon 
 points, hard-boiled eggs, or lettuce. 
 
 Nothing should be used in garnishing a salad that 
 cannot be eaten in conjunction with the salad without 
 disguising or detracting from the delicacy of its flavor. 
 Therefore chicken salad made with celery should not be 
 garnished with beets, radishes, or parsley. 
 
 Chicken Salad No. 2. — To four cups of prepared 
 chicken cut in dice add two cups of white, tender celery 
 also cut in dice, mix well together, and add a cup of 
 cooked mayonnaise. Place in a salad bowl, spread more 
 dressing over the top, and garnish according to taste. 
 
 Chicken Salad No. 3. — Mix well together two cups 
 each of prepared chicken, sweetbreads, or veal tongue, 
 and tender white celery, all diced, and add one cup of 
 oil mayonnaise, cooked mayonnaise, or the oil and cooked 
 mixed in equal quantities. Put in a salad bowl, cover 
 with dressing, and garnish according to taste with curled 
 
278 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 celery, cress, lettuce, lemon points, hard-boiled eggs, 
 capers, olives, or pickles. 
 
 Chicken Salad with Lettuce. — Strip the green from 
 the white stems of well-grown, crisp lettuce leaves. 
 Throw the stems into ice water for half an hour, then 
 break or cut them into dice. To two cups of the diced 
 lettuce add a teaspoonful of celery seed, scattering it 
 over the lettuce as evenly as possible. Use, the same as 
 celery, for chicken salad. It makes an excellent substi- 
 tute, and is much preferable to entire lettuce leaves or to 
 cabbage. 
 
 Sweetbread Salad No. i. — Prepare and cook the 
 sweetbreads as directed on page 38, and, when per- 
 fectly cold, free from skin, cut into dice, and put in a 
 bowl. To two cups of sweetbreads add half a cup of 
 Prench Dressing No. 2 and set on ice for half an hour. 
 Pare and cut into dice two cups of cucumber, and put 
 into a covered dish with broken ice for half an hour. 
 Remove the ice, drain the cucumber, also the sweet- 
 breads, and mix them together, adding half a cup of 
 French Dressing No. i, in an iced salad bowl. Serve 
 at once, or set on ice and keep cold. 
 
 Sweetbread Salad No. 2. — Prepare the sweetbreads 
 as directed in last formula. Drain and mix with an 
 equal portion of celery cut in dice. Mix with oil 
 mayonnaise dressing and serve. Whenever the cooked 
 mayonnaise dressing is used alone, or whenever it is 
 used in connection with oil mayonnaise dressing, the 
 French dressing can be omitted, as it is used with oil 
 mayonnaise — which contains but little acid — simply to 
 increase the acidity of the salad. 
 
Salad- Making . 279 
 
 Cucumber and Fish Salad. — Pick into pieces suitable 
 for serving any cold cooked fresh fish, freed from skin 
 and bones. With two cups of the prepared fish mix half 
 a cup of French Dressing No. 2. 
 
 Prepare cucumber as for sweetbread salad and let stand 
 for half an hour on broken ice. Drain the cucumber, 
 also the fish, mix in equal quantities, and pour over the 
 mixture half a cup of French Dressing No. i. 
 
 Tomato and Fish Salad. — Prepare cold cooked fish 
 as before directed. Skin and cut the tomatoes in dice, 
 and put on ice as directed for cucumbers. Mix two cups 
 of each, and a tablespoonful of finely minced onion 
 together, and dress with three fourths of a cup of oil 
 mayonnaise dressing. 
 
 Mixed Fish Salad. — To four cups of prepared cold 
 cooked fish add one cup of chopped hard-boiled eggs, 
 and half a cup of chopped pickle. Mix well together, 
 add one cup of either oil or cooked mayonnaise dress- 
 ing. Serve in lettuce cups, or garnished with cress, or 
 nasturtium leaves. 
 
 Egg Salad No. i. — Divide six hard-boiled eggs in 
 halves. Remove the yolks, mash fine, and add a tea- 
 spoonful of Seasoning No. i, a tablespoonful of olive 
 oil, butter, or cream, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice 
 or vinegar. Mix all well together, fill the halves of eggs 
 with the mixture, arrange them on a bed of lettuce, 
 nasturtium leaves, or cress, and serve. 
 
 Egg Salad No. 2. — Hash the whites and yolks of hard- 
 boiled eggs separately. Mix lightly together, and to 
 two cups of ^%% add one cup of celery, or one cup of 
 white stems of lettuce cut fine. Cresses or nasturtium 
 
28o The Art of Cookery, 
 
 leaves may be used instead of celery or lettuce. Serve 
 with either oil or cooked mayonnaise dressing. 
 
 SALAD DRESSINGS. 
 
 French Dressing No. i. — Put a tablespoonful of very 
 sharp vinegar into a cup which has been iced or made 
 cold, add salt and white pepper to taste, then add 
 gradually, stirring meanwhile, three tablespoonfuls of 
 olive oil. The salt should be almost as plain to the taste 
 in the mixture as the vinegar. 
 
 These proportions mixed in this manner will produce 
 the best French dressing. 
 
 French Dressing No. 2. — Season to taste with salt and 
 pepper three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, then add one 
 tablespoonful of olive oil. 
 
 Mayonnaise Dressing. — In making this dressing select 
 for use a Dover egg-beater and a large bowl-shaped 
 coffee cup, or a pint bowl v/ith straight sides. Have 
 both well cooled with ice, also a fresh ^^^ and the oil to 
 be used for the dressing. Put the yolk of the ^g% into 
 the cup and beat it for a few seconds before adding any 
 oil. Beat in the oil, a few drops at a time, until it shows 
 that it is combining perfectly with the ^%%, then add 
 more freely. When the mixture becomes too stiff to beat 
 easily add, one at a time, two teaspoonfuls of lemon 
 juice or vinegar, which will thin it. Beat in more oil 
 until again very stiff, when thin with acid as before. By 
 thus alternating the oil and acid, a quart or more of oil 
 may be made into a light, thick, cream-colored dressing 
 with only one ^%% yolk. With an assistant to pour the 
 oil, very slowly at first and more freely afterward, one 
 
Salad- Making. 281 
 
 can convert a large bottle of oil into a deliciously smooth, 
 thick mayonnaise dressing in five minutes. To each cup 
 of dressing add a teaspoonful of Seasoning No. i. 
 
 Cooked Mayonnaise Dressing. — Pour four tablespoon- 
 fuls of boiling vinegar over two whole eggs, or the yolks 
 of four eggs, which have been well beaten, stirring the 
 mixture while adding the vinegar. Put in a small sauce- 
 pan over the fire, and cook slowly, stirring constantly, 
 until the mixture is thick and creamy. Remove from 
 the fire, add a tablespoonful of butter, and stir until per- 
 fectly mixed. To each cup of dressing add two tea- 
 spoonfuls of Seasoning No. 2. When cold add an 
 equal quantity of whipped cream, and use wherever 
 oil mayonnaise dressing would be suitable, or mix to- 
 gether equal portions of the two dressings, and use 
 wherever either would be suitable. 
 
 This cooked dressing may be put in glass jars or 
 tumblers and kept an indefinite length of time. The 
 whipped cream should be added just before the dressing 
 is used. 
 
 Cream Dressing. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 2 
 add gradually four tablespoonfuls of vinegar or lemon 
 juice, and, when perfectly cold, beat into it one cup of 
 whipped cream, or half a cup of thin cream. 
 
 SEASONINGS FOR SALAD DRESSINGS. 
 
 Different salads require, in their preparation, different 
 dressings ; and those different dressings require different 
 kinds and quantities of seasoning. Hence the season- 
 ings required for various kinds of salad dressings are 
 given below : 
 
282 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Seasoning No. i. — Mix together two teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, one teaspoonful of mustard flour, and half a tea- 
 spoonful of mixed pepper. 
 
 Seasoning No, 2. — Mix together three teaspoonfuls of 
 salt, one teaspoonful of mustard flour, and one third of 
 a teaspoonful of mixed pepper. 
 
 Seasoning No. 3. — Mix together one teaspoonful of 
 salt, two teaspoonfuls of granulated sugar, and a third 
 of a teaspoonful of mixed pepper. 
 
CHAPTER XXII. 
 
 ENTREES AND SIDE DISHES. 
 
 Almost everything broiled, fried, stewed, scalloped, 
 or deviled may be served as an entr6e or side dish. 
 But the things that should be, and most usually are, 
 served as such are made dishes, or dishes prepared from 
 left-overs, odds and ends, and broken bits of former 
 meals. And in these made dishes it is quite legitimate 
 to introduce foreign sauces and seasonings, in order to 
 give flavor to the food in lieu of that which it has lost by 
 cooling and exposure. 
 
 It is somewhat difficult to draw the line which ought 
 to separate dishes alike in many respects, but quite dif- 
 ferent in others. The whole subject of made dishes 
 can, however, be pretty well illustrated under the follow- 
 ing classes, viz. : creamed dishes, scalloped dishes, 
 deviled dishes, fricassees, hashes, croquettes, jellied 
 meats, and boned meats. 
 
 Creamed Chicken. — Free the cold chicken — either 
 roasted, boiled, broiled, or fried — from skin and tough or 
 sinewy bits, and cut in small pieces. To two cups of 
 prepared chicken add one cup of White Sauce No. 2 or 
 No. 3, mix well together, season to taste, simmer five 
 minutes in a covered sauce-pan, and serve. 
 
 Creamed Fish. — Free the cold fish — either baked, 
 
 broiled, boiled, or fried — from skin and bones, and sepa- 
 
 283 
 
284 The Art of Cookery, 
 
 rate in pieces. To each cup of prepared fish add half 
 a cup of White Sauce No. 4, ^^'g sauce, or drawn but- 
 ter, to any of which may be added a teaspoonful of 
 minced onion or parsley, with salt and pepper to taste. 
 Mix carefully with a fork, simmer five minutes in a 
 covered sauce-pan, and serve. 
 
 Creamed Sweetbreads. — Free the cooked sweetbreads 
 from skin and separate them into small pieces. To each 
 cup of sweetbreads add half a cup of White Sauce No. 
 4 and an eighth of a teaspoonful of grated lemon peel, 
 mixed with half its bulk of ground mace. Simmer five 
 minutes in a covered sauce-pan, season, and serve. 
 
 Creamed Oysters No. i. — To one cup of hot White 
 Sauce No. 2 add a pint of oysters drained in a colander. 
 Stir with a wooden spoon while heating, and as soon 
 as the mixture boils and the thin edges of the oysters 
 wrinkle and separate, remove from the fire, season, and 
 serve in patty cases, vol-au-vents, or pies. 
 
 Creamed Oysters No. 2. — To one cup of White Sauce 
 No. 4, boiling hot, add one pint of drained oysters, cook 
 until the edges curl and separate, then season and serve 
 on toast, or as stewed oysters. 
 
 Creamed Shrimps. — If canned shrimps are used, 
 cover them for half an hour with broken ice and water, 
 then drain, and to a can of shrimps add a cup of White 
 Sauce No. 4. Simmer five minutes in a sauce-pan, 
 season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Creamed Lobster. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 
 4 add two cups of cooked lobster, picked in small 
 pieces, season to taste with Seasoning No. i, simmer 
 five minutes in a covered sauce-pan, and serve. 
 
Entries and Side Dishes. 285 
 
 Salmon may be prepared and creamed like lobster. 
 A teaspoonful of lemon juice or vinegar may be added 
 to either dish when liked. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. — Cut cold boiled or baked pota- 
 toes into dice or slices. To each pint of potato add a 
 teaspoonful of minced parsley, if liked, and a cup of 
 White Sauce No. 4. Season to taste, simmer five min- 
 utes in a covered sauce-pan, and serve with cold meats, 
 or with broiled or fried meats, fish, or birds. 
 
 Creamed Macaroni. — To about a quart of boiled and 
 drained macaroni add a cup of White Sauce No. 4. 
 Season to taste, simmer five minutes in a covered sauce- 
 pan, and serve with grated cheese, or mix a tablespoon- 
 ful of grated cheese with the white sauce when added. 
 Spaghetti and vermicelli may be creamed in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Creamed Codfish. — Soak two cups of salt codfish, 
 freed from skin and bones and cut into dice, for fifteen 
 minutes, in a quart of cold water. Drain off the water, 
 put the fish in a sauce-pan, add to it a cup of White 
 Sauce No. i, and pepper to taste, cover, and simmer 
 five minutes. Serve with boiled or baked potatoes, or 
 on dipped toast. Black or white pepper should be used 
 in creamed codfish, and cayenne or mixed pepper in 
 codfish balls or cakes. 
 
 Creamed Toast. — Put in a shallow pan or basin on the 
 back of the stove a cup of milk, a tablespoonful of 
 butter, and a fourth of a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well 
 together and dip the toasted bread, by laying a slice at 
 a time in the hot mixture. With a fork and a limber- 
 bladed knife turn it over, press under the milk, and lift 
 
286 The A7't of Cookery. 
 
 at once into a warm tureen. After all the toast wanted 
 has been dipped and lifted to the tureen in this manner, 
 pour over it a cup of White Sauce No. 4. 
 
 Dipped Toast. — Put a cup of boiling water, a table- 
 spoonful of butter, and a fourth of a teaspoonful of salt, 
 in a shallow basin, on the back of the stove. Dip the 
 toasted bread, a slice at a time, into the mixture, turn it 
 over with a knife and fork, and lift on to a heated platter 
 before it becomes too soft. If the toast is required 
 richer more butter may be used. Hot milk may also be 
 used in place of water, if preferred. 
 
 Curried Toast. — To a cup of White Sauce No. 4 add 
 curry powder to taste, and serve with dipped toast. 
 
 Curried Rice. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 3 add 
 curry powder to taste, and serve with boiled rice. 
 Curried rice is appropriately served with stewed chicken 
 or stewed veal. 
 
 Scalloped Potatoes No. i. — Pare and slice the pota- 
 toes of a uniform thickness. Butter a baking dish and 
 fill three quarters full with the prepared potatoes. Add 
 new milk, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper, until the 
 potatoes are nearly covered, then sprinkle Bread Crumbs 
 No. 3 generously over them, and bake in a moderate 
 oven for half an hour, or until the potatoes are cooked 
 and the crumbs browned. 
 
 For scalloping potatoes a simple broth or any made 
 gravy or meat sauce combined with water may be sub- 
 stituted for milk, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley, 
 or minced onion, may be added to two or three cups of 
 the prepared potatoes to give variety to the dish. 
 
 Scalloped Potatoes No. 2. — To three or four cups of 
 
Entries and Side Dishes. 287 
 
 cold boiled or baked potatoes cut into dice, sliced, or 
 hashed, add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and a cup 
 and a half of White Sauce No. 4. Put in a buttered 
 baking dish, cover with Crumbs No. 3, and cook in a 
 moderate oven until the mixture is well heated and the 
 crumbs are brown. 
 
 Scalloped Fish No. i. — Cut uncooked fish in pieces 
 suitable for serving, free from skin and bones, and season 
 with salt, pepper, and parsley, if liked. Fill a buttered 
 baking dish three fourths full with the prepared fish, 
 cover with sweet milk, sprinkle Bread Crumbs No. 3 
 over the top, and bake in a moderate oven for half an 
 hour, or until the fish is thoroughly cooked and the 
 crumbs are brown. 
 
 Fish and potatoes may be scalloped together in this 
 manner by putting in the baking dish alternate layers of 
 uncooked fish and potatoes. 
 
 Scalloped Fish No. 2. — Free from skin and bones and 
 cut in small pieces cold cooked fish. Slice or hash cold 
 boiled or baked potatoes and cold boiled eggs. Fill a 
 buttered baking dish three fourths full of the prepared 
 material — ^placing the fish, potato, and eggs in alternate 
 layers — ^and scattering, if liked, minced parsley over the 
 layers of fish. Cover with White Sauce No. 4, sprinkle 
 the top with Bread Crumbs No. 3, and bake twenty or 
 twenty-five minutes in a moderate oven. 
 
 Scalloped Salt Codfish. — Prepare as for creamed cod- 
 fish, put in a buttered baking dish, cover with White 
 Sauce No. 4, sprinkle Bread Crumbs No. 3 over the 
 top, and bake twenty or thirty minutes, according to the 
 size of the dish, in a moderate oven. 
 
288 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Scalloped Fresh Codfish and Oysters. — Free cold 
 boiled codfish of skin and bones, cut it in pieces suitable 
 for serving, and with each pint of prepared fish use a 
 pint of oysters, rinsed in cold water and drained. Put 
 the fish and oysters in a shallow, buttered baking dish in 
 alternate layers, add half a cup of drawn butter, left 
 over with the fish, or made with water, sprinkle Bread 
 Crumbs No. 3 over the top, and bake in a quick oven 
 until the crumbs are a nice brown. 
 
 Panned Oysters. — Put in a spider a tablespoonful of 
 butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a dust of pepper. 
 When the butter is melted and hot, add a pint of oysters 
 that have been washed and drained. Cover and cook 
 over a hot fire about two minutes, shaking the spider 
 occasionally while cooking. Serve in a warm dish, on 
 thin slices of buttered toast — or without the toast, if 
 preferred. 
 
 Curried Oysters. — Add curry powder to taste to 
 oysters that have been washed and drained, and then 
 pan, stew, or cream them. 
 
 Scalloped Eggs No. i. — Slice or dice cold boiled 
 eggs, put them in a buttered baking dish, cover with 
 White Sauce No. 4, and heat to boiling point in a mod- 
 erate oven. 
 
 Scalloped Eggs No. 2. — Put into a shallow, buttered 
 baking dish one tablespoonful of White Sauce No. 4 for 
 each ^g^. Break the eggs separately and slip carefully 
 into the baking dish, sprinkle half a teaspoonful of 
 grated cheese, or minced parsley, or cold boiled ham 
 minced fine, over each ^^g, cover each with another 
 tablespoonful of white sauce, and cook to taste in a 
 
Entries and Side Dishes. 289 
 
 moderate oven. If preferred, use only white sauce. 
 The eggs can be scalloped in individual dishes, and 
 the same proportion of white sauce allowed each Q^'g 
 as in the large dish. 
 
 Scalloped Lobster — Cut the cooked lobster into pieces 
 suitable for serving, put in a buttered baking dish, and 
 to four cups of lobster add one cup of white sauce, and 
 half a teaspoonful of mustard flour. Cover lightly with 
 Bread Crumbs No. 3, and cook in a moderate oven 
 twenty or twenty-five minutes. Salmon can be scalloped 
 like lobster. 
 
 Deviled Clams. — Chop two dozen dams very fine, 
 season with a teaspoonful each of minced parsley and 
 onion, and salt and cayenne or mixed pepper to taste, 
 and moisten with half a cup of sweet milk. Sprinkle a 
 light covering of Bread Crumbs No. 3 in a buttered 
 baking dish, or in buttered shells, place upon them a 
 layer of prepared clams, sprinkle with bread crumbs, 
 place upon them another layer of clams, cover the top 
 generously with bread crumbs, and bake in a moderate 
 oven fifteen or twenty minutes. 
 
 Deviled Crabs. — To two cups of hard-shell crab meat 
 picked into small pieces add a teaspoonful of mustard 
 flour, salt and pepper to taste, and half a cup of milk 
 or thin cream. Sprinkle a buttered baking dish, or 
 buttered shells, lightly with Bread Crumbs No. 3, place 
 upon them a layer of crab meat, sprinkle again with 
 crumbs, place another layer of crab meat upon the 
 crumbs, and finish with a covering of crumbs. Bake 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, or until the crumbs are nicely 
 browned. Serve, with lemon points, either hot or cold. 
 
290 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Lobster and various kinds of fish may be deviled in a 
 similar manner, and the seasoning may be varied to suit 
 the taste. Hard-boiled eggs chopped fine may also be 
 added at pleasure, to deviled fish, clams, lobster, or crabs. 
 
 Deviled Eggs. — To five hard-boiled eggs, minced fine, 
 add two tablespoonfiils of grated cheese, salt, and cayenne 
 or mixed pepper to taste, and half a cup of White Sauce 
 No. 4. Put in a sauce-pan, simmer five minutes, and 
 serve on toasted bread, or on heated snowflake crackers. 
 
 Scalloped and deviled dishes are much alike in many 
 respects, but there are some quite marked differences. 
 In scalloped dishes there is usually a greater preponder- 
 ance of liquid than in deviled dishes — the latter being 
 invariably dry, while the former are usually quite the re- 
 verse. In deviled dishes the food is always cut or di- 
 vided into pieces small enough to be eaten with a fork. 
 And in deviled dishes bread or cracker crumbs are al- 
 ways used, while in scalloped dishes they may or may 
 not be used. The idea used to obtain that deviled 
 dishes must be intensely hot with seasoning, but that 
 idea has been abandoned, and deviled and scalloped 
 dishes are now alike in that respect, both being seasoned 
 to taste. 
 
 Fricasseed Oysters. — Select large oysters and wrap 
 about each oyster a thin slice of salt pork or breakfast 
 bacon. Lay on a very hot griddle or spider, and cook 
 over a quick fire until the wrapping is brown and crisp, 
 and the oyster delicately cooked. Serve on thin slices 
 of toast, with lemon points. 
 
 Fricasseed oysters are sometimes absurdly called 
 ' * little pigs in blankets. ' ' 
 
Entries and Side Dishes. 291 
 
 Fricasseed Salt Pork. — Slice half a pound of salt 
 pork in thin slices, and remove the rind. Lay the 
 slices upon a hot spider and cook over a quick fire until 
 the under side is brown, then turn and brown the other 
 side in a similar manner. Lift the brown slices to a 
 warm platter and drain the grease from the spider, until 
 only two or three tablespoonfuls remain. Place the 
 spider over the fire, put in it two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
 mix well with the fat in the spider, add two cups of 
 sweet milk, simmer five minutes, season to taste, and 
 pour over the slices of meat on the platter. Serve with 
 it boiled or baked potatoes. 
 
 Fricasseed Chicken. — In frying chicken, quail, and 
 other birds it is economy to use only the breast and 
 second joints, and to reserve the wings, legs, back, and 
 giblets for stewing or fricasseeing. To fricassee these 
 portions saut6 them in clarified butter until nicely 
 browned, then remove to a sauce-pan. To the butter in 
 the spider where they were sauted add a teaspoonful of 
 flour and mix well, then pour in two cups of hot water, 
 stir all the browning from the spider and mix with the 
 liquid, season lightly with salt, strain, and pour over the 
 chicken in the sauce-pan. Cover and simmer gently for 
 an hour and a half, or until very tender, add a table- 
 spoonful of flour stirred to a smooth paste with two 
 tablespoonfuls of cold water, simmer five minutes, season 
 to taste, and serve. A cup of fresh or canned mush- 
 rooms, cut in thin slices, can be added to this fricassee 
 five or ten minutes before it is served. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. — Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a 
 spider over a quick fire, and when hot add two cups of 
 
292 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 thinly shaved dried beef, from which the rind has been 
 removed, and stir constantly with a fork, to keep from 
 burning, until it curls and looks cooked. Then remove 
 the spider to a cooler part of the stove, sift in two table- 
 spoonfuls of flour, mix well with the meat, pour in two 
 cups of sweet milk, and simmer and stir till the sauce 
 or gravy is smooth. Serve on a hot platter. Beef will 
 frizzle in about two minutes. 
 
 Dried mutton, veal, and venison can be cooked in 
 the same manner. A little dried liver shaved thin can 
 be added to the beef or mutton, if liked. 
 
 Stewed Giblets with Mushrooms. — Cut the giblets of 
 a fowl in pieces suitable for serving, put them in a sauce- 
 pan, add two cups of hot water and a pinch of salt, cover 
 closely, and cook gently for two hours, or until they are 
 tender. Cook together until a light brown color two 
 tablespoonfuls each of flour and butter, add to it the 
 water from the giblets, also half a can of mushrooms 
 sliced, with half the water from the can. Simmer five 
 minutes, season to taste, pour over the giblets, shake 
 well together, and serve. A teaspoonful of lemon juice 
 or vinegar may be added to the mixture, if liked. 
 
 Fish Hash. — Melt a tablespoonful of butter in a 
 sauce-pan, add a cup of water or milk and two cups of 
 any kind of cold fresh fish, freed from skin and bones, 
 and picked into small pieces. Season to taste, simmer 
 five minutes, and serve on slices of dipped toast. 
 
 Hard-boiled eggs may always be added to hashed fish, 
 also a flavoring of minced parsley, if liked ; and any 
 fish sauce left over from a previous meal may be used, 
 instead of milk or water, for moistening the hash. 
 
Entries arid Side Dishes. 293 
 
 Turkey Hash. — Remove the skin and fat from left- 
 over portions of turkey, and chop the meat fine, or cut 
 it in dice. Put the bones, skin, and refuse bits in a 
 sauce-pan with some trimmings of celery, add a tea- 
 spoonful of salt, and sufficient water to cover the bones, 
 simmer for three hours, strain, and remove the grease. 
 Cook together a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, 
 add to it two cups of the turkey broth, cook until 
 smooth, then add two or more cups of the prepared 
 turkey meat, simmer five minutes, season, and serve on 
 toast, or with baked or boiled potatoes. 
 
 Turkey and Oyster Hash. — Cut cold roast or boiled 
 turkey into pieces as large as a medium-sized oyster. 
 Prepare a broth as for turkey hash. Put two or more 
 cups of the prepared meat into a sauce-pan, add enough 
 of the broth to cover it, set on the back of the range, 
 and let simmer until tender. Cook together in another 
 sauce-pan two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour 
 until well mixed but not brown, add two cups of the 
 turkey broth, simmer five minutes, add a pint of oysters, 
 rinsed and drained, stir gently with a wooden spoon, 
 and as soon as the edges separate and curl add the turkey 
 meat, season to taste, and serve with or without toast. 
 
 This dish may be served at breakfast or lunch, or as 
 an entree at dinner — in the latter case on a triangular 
 slice of toast. 
 
 Chicken and oyster hash may be prepared and served 
 in the same manner. The proportions of fowl and 
 oysters in these hashes may be the same, or either may 
 predominate according to circumstances. Boiled fresh 
 codfish combined with oysters in a similar manner makes 
 
294 '^^^ -^^^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 a very delicious dish. In such combination the fish 
 should be heated in a few spoonfuls of butter, and the 
 oysters cooked in a white sauce or drawn butter before 
 they are mixed together. 
 
 Veal Hash. — Cold roast or stewed veal, when freed 
 from skin and bones and minced fine, makes excellent 
 hash. Prepare the broth the same as for turkey hash. 
 Cook together in a sauce-pan one tablespoonful each of 
 butter and flour, add one cup of veal broth, cook until 
 smooth, add two cups of minced veal, simmer five 
 minutes, season to taste, and serve on toast. Finely 
 chopped mushrooms may be added to turkey, chicken, 
 or veal hash if desired, or two or more of these meats 
 may be mixed together in one hash. 
 
 Veal Terrapin. — Cut cold roast or stewed veal, freed 
 from bones and tough portions, into irregular sized 
 pieces — some as large, others twice as large, as dice. 
 The fat and skin can both be used, unless the skin is 
 hard. Cook together in a sauce-pan, until a light brown, 
 two tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour, add two 
 cups of veal broth, and the water from a can of mush- 
 rooms, and season with mixed pepper and half a level 
 teaspoonful of grated lemon peel mixed with half its 
 bulk of ground mace or grated nutmeg. Add two or 
 more cups of the prepared veal, the can of mushrooms 
 sliced, three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and a cup of 
 cooked sweetbreads, prepared as for creaming, or a cup 
 of calf's brains cooked in salted water and cut in dice. 
 Simmer gently five minutes, or until the mixture is well 
 heated, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice mixed with a 
 teaspoonful of sugar, and serve. 
 
Entrees and Side Dishes. 295 
 
 Mock Terrapin. — Cook in a sauce-pan, until brown, 
 four tablespoonfuls of butter, add one cup of veal broth, 
 two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice, half a teaspoonful of 
 grated lemon peel, half as much grated nutmeg or 
 ground mace, and a teaspoonful of sugar. Mix lightly 
 together with a fork two cups of veal, one cup of veal 
 kidneys, one cup of sweetbreads or calf's brains, pre- 
 pared as for veal terrapin, and a cup of hard-boiled 
 eggs minced fine. Add them to the broth, cover closely, 
 simmer five or ten minutes until well heated, season, and 
 serve. 
 
 In a similar manner various kinds of delicate meats 
 may be combined in a dish, and such ingredients as 
 mushrooms, eggs, brains, sweetbreads, and kidneys may 
 be omitted. The advantage of using such articles in 
 this connection is, that without them there would 
 frequently be an insufficient quantity of odds and ends 
 to make a family dish, and with one or more of them 
 added the richness and flavor of the dish are improved. 
 
 Mutton Hash. — Prepare cold boiled or roast mutton 
 in pieces suitable for serving. Put in a sauce-pan, cover 
 with Jelly Sauce No. 3, simmer ten minutes, or until 
 heated, season, and serve. Slices of cold duck or 
 venison may be heated in the same manner. 
 
 Cold sliced beef or veal may be served with cold 
 Tomato Sauce No. i, or with cold tomato or cucumber 
 catsup ; or may be re-warmed in slices, dice, or cubes, 
 in any brown or tomato sauce. 
 
 Breakfast Hash. — To one cup of coarsely hashed 
 cold boiled or baked potato add one cup of finely hashed 
 cold meat, either beef, veal, lamb, chicken, or a mixture 
 
296 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 of any or all of them, season to taste with salt and 
 pepper, add two or three tablespoonfuls of broth, gravy, 
 milk, or cream, and brown in a buttered pan on the 
 range, or in the oven. Or heat thoroughly, without 
 browning, if preferred. For an occasional change flavor 
 the hash with minced onion or sweet herbs, or serve 
 with fried or broiled breakfast bacon, baked apples, 
 apple sauce, or some acid stewed fruit. 
 
 Scrapple. — To three cups of simple beef stock, or of 
 Mixed Stock No. i, add one cup of granulated corn- 
 meal wet with one cup of cold water. Season sharply 
 with salt and pepper, cook half an hour, and turn into a 
 brick-shaped bread pan. When perfectly cold cut in 
 slices and saute on a griddle with clarified butter or 
 drippings, or crumb and fry in deep fat, like mush. 
 
 Calf's Head. — Prepare and cook a calf's head as for 
 mock turtle soup. Serve as in mock turtle soup, mak- 
 ing the sauce thicker than the soup ; or serve the head 
 and brains in Brown Sauce No. 2 or No. 3, in Jelly 
 Sauce No. 3, or in Tomato Sauce No. 5. 
 
 Hashed Potato. — Cook together one tablespoonful of 
 butter and one teaspoonful of flour. Add half a cup of 
 cream or sweet milk. Season with salt and pepper. 
 Stir until the mixture boils and is smooth. Add two 
 cups of cold boiled or baked potato — cut in dice or 
 hashed — cover, and let simmer ten or fifteen minutes. 
 Serve in a heated dish. 
 
 Browned Hashed Potato. — Prepare a sauce as for 
 hashed potato. Mix the potato carefully with it. Put 
 the mixture in a well-buttered skillet or pan, and cook 
 slowly until nicely browned. Serve hot. 
 
Entries and Side Dishes. 297 
 
 Lyonnaise Potato. — Put two tablespoonfuls of clarified 
 butter in a skillet or frying pan, and when melted add to 
 it two tablespoonfuls of minced onion. Cook till the 
 onion turns yellow, then add two cups of diced or 
 hashed cold potato, with which a tablespoonful of 
 minced parsley has been mixed, and which has been 
 seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover and cook slowly 
 until nicely browned on the under side, then fold like an 
 omelet, and serve on a heated dish. If the cold potato 
 is very dry two or three spoonfuls of sweet milk may be 
 mixed with it before the parsley and seasoning are added. 
 
 Browned Potato Cakes. — Mix one Qgg and one table- 
 spoonful of cream or milk with two cups of cold mashed 
 potato. Roll the mixture into balls. Flatten the balls 
 into cakes about half an inch thick. Dust with flour 
 and brown on a griddle, with just sufficient clarified 
 butter, or beef drippings, to keep them from sticking. 
 
 Potato and Fish Cakes. — Prepare cold mashed po- 
 tato as for potato cakes. Mix with it an equal quantity 
 of cold boiled, baked, broiled, or fried fish, freed from 
 skin and bones and picked up fine ; add a teaspoonful 
 of melted butter, form into cakes, and brown on a 
 griddle. 
 
 Browned Sliced Potatoes. — Slice cold boiled potatoes 
 into tolerably thick slices. Season with salt and pepper, 
 and dust with flour. Lay on a griddle, well greased 
 with drippings or clarified butter, over a quick fire. 
 When brown on the under side, pour a few drops of 
 melted butter on each slice of potato, turn over, and 
 brown. Serve hot. 
 
 Creamy Chicken Croquettes. — Cook together in a 
 
298 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 sauce-pan until well mixed a tablespoonful each of flour 
 and butter, add a cup of jellied chicken, or veal stock, 
 and two cups of finely minced chicken, with or without 
 sweetbreads, mushrooms, etc., and seasoned like 
 Chicken Croquettes No. i, 2, 3, or 4. Simmer five 
 minutes, spread to cool on oiled plates, and, when cold, 
 shape in any form desired by rolling lightly under the 
 hand on a smooth board. When shaped, roll in Crumbs 
 No. 2, cover with ^^<g batter by laying the croquettes, 
 one at a time, on a plate and dipping the batter over 
 them with a spoon until every portion is covered, then 
 slip a limber knife under the end of each croquette its 
 full length, and lift to a plate covered thickly with Bread 
 Crumbs No. 4. Pile the crumbs all over the croquette 
 with a spoon, pressing them gently upon the ends, and 
 lay it on several folds of cheese-cloth, the croquette be- 
 ing so soft that if laid upon a plate or board the under 
 side will be flattened and its form rendered imperfect. 
 When all the croquettes are prepared, place in a frying 
 basket and fry in deep fat. 
 
 To make chicken or veal croquettes that will be very 
 soft and creamy when fried, rich chicken or veal stock, 
 or a combination of both, should be used. Any meat 
 or fresh fish croquettes can be made soft and creamy in 
 a similar manner by using stiff veal stock with which to 
 make the sauce. 
 
 Lobster Cutlets. — Prepare the lobster as for croquettes. 
 Place a spoonful of the mixture on a board or plate well 
 covered vv^ith Crumbs No. 2. With a spoon in the left 
 hand, its back toward the mixture, and a limber knife in 
 the right hand, press it into the form of a cutlet or 
 
Entries and Side Dishes, 299 
 
 neatly trimmed lamb chop, half an inch in thickness. 
 Level up the sides of the cutlet by pressure with the 
 spoon and knife, and when perfect in shape, cover all 
 over with Crumbs No. 2, then with Qgg batter, as in 
 creamy chicken croquettes. With a broad spatula or 
 pancake ladle lift to a plate, cover again with Crumbs 
 No. 2, and saut6 in clarified butter, until a rich brown 
 color. Serve, garnished with lemon points, cress, curled 
 celery, or thick slices of tomato. 
 
 Fish Turbans. — Prepare and press into the required 
 form, as directed for lobster cutlets, any kind of cold 
 fresh fish. Season to taste, crumb, and saut6 in like 
 
 manner. 
 
 Potato Croquettes No. i. — Mash cold boiled pota- 
 toes. Season with salt, pepper, and a little butter. 
 Add a teaspoonful of minced parsley and the unbeaten 
 white of an Qgg to each cup of mashed potato. Stir well 
 together. Drop by spoonfuls into a frying basket in 
 deep fat of the proper temperature. Remove when suf- 
 ficiendy brown. Drain on several folds of cheese-cloth. 
 
 Serve hot. 
 
 Potato Croquettes No. 2.— Peel and boil one medium- 
 sized onion and three potatoes. Drain, dry off, mash 
 fine, add a tablespoonful of rich cream and a teaspoonful 
 of butter, or a tablespoonful each of butter and milk— 
 an additional spoonful of milk may be added if neces- 
 sary to make the mixture sufficiently soft— season with 
 salt and pepper, and beat with a wooden spoon till light. 
 When slightly stiffened by cooling, form into croquettes 
 as directed for creamy chicken croquettes, cover with 
 crumbs, then with egg batter, then again with crumbs, 
 
300 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 and fry in deep fat. Serve with broiled or cold meats, 
 or with boiled ham or tongue. 
 
 Potato Croquettes No. 3. — Prepare the potatoes as in 
 last formula — with or without onion — flatten to thickness 
 of a sixteenth of an inch enough of it for one croquette. 
 Have the croquette rectangular in shape, place upon the 
 center of it a teaspoonful of minced boiled ham, or any 
 highly seasoned meat, cooked and seasoned as for cro- 
 quettes or sandwiches, spread the minced meat length- 
 wise on the potato, fold up the sides, and pinch the sides 
 and ends carefully together. Cover with crumbs, then 
 with ^^% batter, then again with crumbs, and fry in a 
 basket in deep fat. 
 
 Rice Croquettes No. 2. — Boil and enrich the rice as in 
 Rice Croquettes No. i (page 143), omitting the sugar. 
 Put a tablespoonful of rice on an oiled plate, flatten to a 
 sixteenth of an inch, in rectangular shape, and place upon 
 the center a teaspoonful of thick jam, a piece of preserved 
 fruit, a teaspoonful of grated pine-apple from which the 
 juice has been drained, or of preserved ginger, citron, 
 or limes minced fine. Spread slightly lengthwise, fold 
 the rice carefully over the fruit with a limber knife, and 
 pinch it well and smoothly together at the top and ends. 
 Lift the croquette carefully with the knife, cover it with 
 Bread Crumbs No. 2, then with ^%% batter, then again 
 with Bread Crumbs No. 2, and so proceed until the cro- 
 quettes are all prepared, when place in a basket and fry 
 in deep fat. Serve with pulverized sugar sifted over 
 them, or with the syrup of the fruit used in making them. 
 
 Timbales. — Put into a large cup or small bowl one 
 ^Z%^ a fourth of a cup of cold water or milk, a pinch of 
 
Entrees a7id Side Dishes. 301 
 
 salt, and half a cup of flour. Stir with a fork till mixed, 
 then beat very light with a Dover beater. Put the tim- 
 bale iron in the kettle of hot fat until heated, lift out, 
 shake ofl" the fat, wipe lightly, lower into the prepared 
 batter about half its length, hold it there half a minute, 
 then dip into the kettle of hot fat and cook until the 
 timbale cup drops off. Lift the cup from the kettle and 
 turn over on cheese-cloth to drain. Repeat the opera- 
 tion until all the batter is used. These cups are suitable 
 for any purpose where puff paste patties are used, and 
 the quantity of batter given will make a dozen cups. 
 
 Timbales of Rice. — Line a buttered baking dish with 
 rice prepared as for croquettes — ^but without sugar or 
 flavoring — by pressing it over the bottom and sides of 
 the dish, leaving it an eighth of an inch thick, brush 
 the inside surface with white of ^'g<g slightly beaten, and 
 dry ten minutes in a warm oven, then fill the dish three 
 fourths full of creamed or hashed chicken, turkey, or 
 veal. Bake in the oven half an hour, or until well heated 
 through, and serve in the dish in which it was cooked. 
 
 Timbales of Potato. — Press potato, prepared as for 
 croquettes, over the inside of a buttered baking dish, 
 until it forms a smooth coating a fourth of an inch thick, 
 then fill the dish three fourths full of creamed, hashed, 
 or otherwise prepared meats, poultry, fish, or eggs, or a 
 combination of such, and bake for half an hour, or until 
 heated through. If it is desired to serve some very 
 soft preparation, in either rice or potato timbales, brush 
 the inner surface of the rice or potato with a brush 
 dipped in white of ^%^ slightly beaten, and dry in the 
 oven a few minutes before filling with the mixture. 
 
302 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Chicken Souffle. — To one cup of White Sauce No. 2 
 add two cups of very finely chopped breast of chicken, 
 a tablespoonful of minced parsley, half a teaspoonful of 
 grated lemon peel, and half as much mace. Simmer 
 five minutes, remove from the fire, and when lukewarm 
 add the whites of four eggs beaten stiff. Put the mix- 
 ture into a buttered dish or mold, and steam or bake for 
 half an hour, or until stiff in the center, then turn out on 
 a warm dish, and garnish lightly with cress or endive. 
 
 Veal, sweetbreads, or any delicate fish can be used in 
 place of chicken, and the same formula as for chicken 
 be followed. 
 
 Cheese Souffle No. i. — To two cups of rich American 
 cheese grated add a fourth of a teaspoonful of mustard 
 flour, and the same of salt, and pepper to taste. Beat 
 the yolks of two eggs very light, mix with half a cup of 
 sweet milk, and stir in the cheese. Melt a tablespoonful 
 of butter in a sauce-pan, pour in the cheese mixture, and 
 stir constantly over a slow Are until the cheese melts, 
 and the mixture becomes smooth and hot — not boiling. 
 Remove from the fire, add the well-beaten whites of 
 three eggs, pour into a buttered baking dish, and bake 
 in a very slow oven about twenty minutes. 
 
 Cheese Souffle No. 2. — To one cup of White Sauce 
 No. I add two cups of grated cheese, season to taste, 
 add the yolks of three eggs well beaten, and lastly the 
 whites beaten stiff. Bake in a very moderate oven, in a 
 dish, or in six individual molds. If in the latter, serve 
 in the molds in which they are baked. 
 
 Potato Souffle. — To two cups of boiled potato mashed 
 fine add one cup of sweet cream, or one tablespoonful of 
 
Entries and Side Dishes. 303 
 
 butter, and one cup of sweet milk, salt and white pepper 
 to taste, and a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Mash 
 and beat with a wooden spoon until very light and 
 smooth, and when slightly cool whip into the mixture 
 the whites of four eggs beaten stiff, or whip the whites 
 in, one at a time, unbeaten. Cook, and serve like 
 chicken souffle. 
 
 There are omelet souffles, pudding souffles, and a 
 variety of fruit, fish, chicken, potato, and rice souffles. 
 But a souffle is simply a mixture containing a large pro- 
 portion of the white of ^^% beaten stiff and mixed with 
 it just before it is put to cook, and when this principle 
 is understood, souffles can be multiplied indefinitely, if 
 desired, by using the various edibles that are adapted to 
 their preparation. 
 
 Welsh Rarebit No. i. — To two cups of grated Ameri- 
 can cheese add mustard, pepper, and salt to taste, and 
 half a cup of sweet milk with which the well-beaten yolk 
 of an Q%% has been mixed. Put a tablespoonful of butter 
 in a sauce-pan over the fire, and when melted add the 
 cheese mixture. Heat slowly, stirring constantly, until 
 the cheese is melted and the mixture becomes a smooth 
 paste, then spread on thin slices of buttered or dipped 
 toast, and serve hot. 
 
 Golden buck is the same as Welsh rarebit, with 
 the addition of a poached ^^%, served on each slice 
 of toast. 
 
 Welsh Rafebit No. 2. — Cover slices of dipped toast 
 very thickly with grated cheese, seasoned to taste. 
 Place on a buttered pan, and put in a hot oven where 
 the greatest heat will be at the top. Remove from the 
 
304 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 oven when the cheese is melted and slightly scorched, 
 and serve on small plates. 
 
 Welsh Rarebit No. 3. — Prepare bread as for French 
 toast, but, instead of saut€ing, lay the slices upon a 
 well-buttered pan, cover with grated cheese seasoned 
 with salt and pepper, and cook in the oven until the 
 cheese is toasted. 
 
 Cheese Straws No. i. — If the cheese straws are to 
 be made of puff paste, roll the paste very thin — if they 
 are to be made of flaky pie crust, roll the same thick- 
 ness as for pies. When rolled, cut in strips from six to 
 ten inches wide, and cut the strips into straws or sticks a 
 fourth of an inch in width. Lay upon baking sheets or 
 shallow pans, leaving a space between the straws about 
 a third as wide as the straws. Grate rich American 
 cheese, season to taste with salt and red pepper, and 
 scatter quite thickly over the straws, and over the spaces 
 between them also. Place in the oven where the great- 
 est heat will be at the top, and bake ten or fifteen min- 
 utes, or until cooked. Remove from the oven, cut the 
 cheese in the center of the spaces between the straws, 
 and pile the straws on a plate in the form of a log cabin. 
 
 Cheese Straws No. 2. — To a cup of grated cheese add 
 salt and pepper to taste, two tablespoonfuls of melted 
 butter, three tablespoonfuls of cold water, and flour 
 enough to make a soft dough. Mix with a fork until 
 stiff" enough to cleave from the sides of the mixing bowl. 
 Lay upon a molding board dusted with flour, sift flour 
 over the dough, roll gently until as thin as pie crust, cut 
 in strips a fourth of an inch wide, and bake. 
 
 French Toast. — Beat one ^g'g very light, gradually 
 
Entries a?id Side Dishes. 305 
 
 beat into it a cup of sweet milk, and add a generous 
 pinch of salt. Remove the crust from half a dozen slices 
 of bread about a quarter of an inch thick, lay them upon 
 a platter, and pour part of the ^gg and milk mixture 
 over them. After they have soaked a minute turn them 
 over carefully, add the balance of the mixture, and after 
 they have soaked another minute coat each slice with 
 prepared Crumbs No. 2, and saut6 in clarified butter un- 
 til richly browned ; or saute in butter, without crumb- 
 ing, if preferred. Serve hot with a liquid, a raisin, or a 
 cherry sauce, in place of a pudding, or as a sweet entree 
 at dinner ; or serve at breakfast, without a sauce. 
 
 Tropical Toast. — Prepare and cook the slices of bread 
 a? for French toast. To one cup of raisin sauce add 
 half a cup of flaked pine-apple, and half a cup of orange 
 pulp cut in small pieces. Heat all together and serve a 
 spoonful of fruit on each slice of toast. Or the pine- 
 apple may be omitted, and half a cup of thinly sliced 
 bananas used in its place. 
 
 Aspic Jelly. — To three pints of veal or chicken broth, 
 or a mixture of the two, rich enough to form a jelly 
 when cold, add the slighdy beaten whites of two eggs, 
 half a cup of celery roots and trimmings cut in small 
 pieces, a slice of onion, the thin rind of a lemon, a small 
 blade of mace, six cloves, and salt and pepper to taste. 
 Put all together in a sauce-pan, and heat slowly until the 
 mixture boils, then let simmer for fifteen minutes, add a 
 tablespoonful of lemon juice, and strain through two or 
 three folds of cheese-cloth. If the jelly is wanted more 
 acid a larger quantity of lemon juice can be used. 
 Aspic jelly when cold becomes clear and stiff, and is 
 
3o6 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 served suitably with boned turkey or chicken. It is 
 often poured, in liquid form, over prepared meats, in 
 the preparation of jellied meats, etc. 
 
 If a dark jelly is wanted beef or mixed stock can be 
 used in making it, and, in such case, carrots, bay leaf, 
 and allspice may be added to the flavoring, and a table- 
 spoonful of tarragon vinegar may be used instead of 
 lemon juice. 
 
 Jellied Chicken. — Boil the chicken whole, and, when 
 cool, free the best portions from skin and bones. Cut 
 the larger pieces of meat into strips half an inch In 
 width, and the same thickness, if convenient, and lay 
 these strips in an oval or rectangular dish, placing the 
 light and dark meat in alternate layers. When the dish 
 is full pour in aspic jelly made from the chicken broth, 
 cover so as to keep the chicken under the jelly, and set 
 in a cold place until firm. Serve for breakfast, luncheon, 
 tea, or picnics. 
 
 Pressed Corned Beef. — Arrange the cooked beef in 
 a pan or mold as directed for jellied chicken, and pour 
 over it the broth in which it cooked, freed from grease, 
 and seasoned to taste, or, if preferred, use plain beef 
 soup stock in place of the water in which the corned 
 beef cooked, cover, put a light weight upon the meat, 
 and set in a cold place till firm. 
 
 Pressed Veal. — Stew a piece of veal, free it from skin 
 and bones, arrange as directed for corned beef, pour 
 over it the broth in which it cooked, press it, and set in 
 a cold place till firm. 
 
CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 BONED MEATS. 
 
 The bones can be removed easily from all kinds of 
 meats, poultry, game, and fish by inserting a small, 
 sharp knife-blade close to the bone, at the point where 
 it is most exposed, or nearest the surface, and cutting 
 away and separating from the bone all the flesh, skin, 
 ligaments, etc., that are attached to it, until it can be 
 removed from its surroundings. 
 
 To Bone and Stuff a Turkey — Singe, wash, and wipe 
 dry the skin of the turkey. Cut, from head to tail, 
 down the center of the back, through the skin and flesh, 
 to the bone. Beginning at the head, scrape the flesh 
 from the bones, with a dull-bladed knife, working from 
 the back toward the breast, and removing, when reached, 
 the shoulder blades and the bones from the upper joints 
 of the wings, and also those from the upper joints of the 
 legs. Be careful not to cut or break the skin, and when it 
 clings to the bone, loosen it carefully with the fingers. The 
 flesh should be left adhering to the skin, and as intact 
 as possible. If the turkey has not been drawn, cut the 
 skin around the vent, lift ofl" the skeleton, and remove 
 its contents. Separate the skeleton into pieces, and 
 wash them, then cook three or four hours in slightly 
 salted water, so as to extract the gelatine and flavor 
 from the bones. After the turkey has been boned the 
 
 307 
 
3o8 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 carcass may be filled with quail, grouse, prairie chicken, 
 chicken, veal, or fresh pork, or with a combination of 
 part, or all, of these things. Sweetbreads, mushrooms, 
 and truffles can also be used in conjunction with other 
 articles, and lean ham, beef tongue, and hard-boiled 
 eggs are very desirable as part of the filling, because of 
 their color and flavor. For a seven or eight-pound 
 turkey three and a half or four pounds of filling will be 
 needed, also a pint of poultry or veal broth, sufficiently 
 strong to become a stiff" jelly when cold. The main 
 portion of the material to be used for filling should be 
 minced fine, like meat for croquettes, seasoned sharply 
 with salt and pepper, and mixed with the broth, after it 
 has been warmed until liquid. All the filling material 
 must be cooked before it is put in the turkey. 
 
 After all the material has been prepared stuff" the 
 boned fowl in this manner : Lay the turkey, skin side 
 down, on a large platter. Remove some portions of the 
 breast, and lay in the places of the removed portions 
 long cubes of lean boiled ham or tongue, and place 
 upon these strips a layer of chopped meat. Stuff" the 
 wings and second joints from which the bones were 
 removed with the chopped meat. Sprinkle with whole 
 allspice. Place through the center lengthwise a row of 
 hard-boiled eggs, from which the shells have been peeled. 
 Cover the eggs with a layer of the chopped meat, some 
 cubes of tongue or ham, and the displaced portions of 
 the breast. Add mushrooms, truffles, or sweetbreads, if 
 desired, and when full enough, draw up over the filling, 
 the back of the turkey, and sew the edges of the carcass 
 together. Wet the seam with water, and dust flour over 
 
Boned Meats, 309 
 
 it. Lay the stuffed fowl upon its back, tie the legs and 
 wings in position, place it upon a piece of muslin, wrap 
 tightly and fasten the muslin securely together along the 
 back. Put it, back up, in a steamer and cook for two 
 hours, then lay in a roasting pan and cook slowly in the 
 oven, until well browned. Baste frequently, while roast- 
 ing, with turkey, chicken, or veal broth, well seasoned 
 with salt and pepper. After it is done, place in an 
 earthen tureen, breast down, to cool, and strain over it 
 the broth used for basting. 
 
 Chickens and all kinds of fowls and birds can be boned 
 in the same way that a turkey is boned. 
 
 To Bone and Stuff a Leg of Lamb. — Insert the boning 
 knife close to the bone at the upper end of the leg. Cut 
 the sinews, and scrape the flesh from the bone, half way 
 through the leg, then cut and scrape in the same man- 
 ner, from the other end of the leg, until the bone can be 
 slipped from the meat. After removing the bone, fill 
 the cavity from which it has been taken with bread 
 crumbs prepared and seasoned as for roast turkey. 
 Fasten with skewers, wrap and tie securely, and cook 
 the same as boned turkey. Serve cold, with currant, 
 grape, plum, or cranberry jelly. 
 
 To Bone and Stuff a Leg of Veal. — Follow the direc- 
 tions given for boning a leg of lamb. After the bone 
 has been removed stuff the veal with rich sausage meat, 
 highly seasoned with salt and pepper, wrap and tie up 
 securely, steam for an hour, then roast for two and a 
 half hours — basting frequently with water highly seasoned 
 with salt and pepper and enriched with a spoonful ot 
 butter. 
 
3IO The Art of Cookery. 
 
 To Bone and Stuff a Leg of Pork. — Select a small leg 
 of pork for boning, and follow the directions given for 
 boning a leg of lamb. After the bone has been re- 
 moved fill the opening with bread crumbs, prepared as 
 for stuffing roast turkey, and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 and pulverized sage. Skewer, wrap up, fasten securely, 
 and cook as directed for cooking a boned leg of veal. 
 
 I 
 
CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 EGGS AND OMELETS. 
 
 Eggs, in whatever form cooked, should be cooked 
 gently, and at as low a temperature as possible. Too 
 high a temperature in cooking toughens the white of the 
 Qgg and renders it indigestible. 
 
 To Boil an Egg, — See under the title Boiling, page 70. 
 
 To Poach an Egg. — Break the egg into a cup, from 
 which slip it carefully into water at boiling temperature, 
 but not actively boiling. Let it remain until cooked as 
 desired, then lift from the water with a spatula or skim- 
 mer, and serve on dipped or buttered toast. The water 
 in which eggs are poached should be well salted. Egg 
 poachers, which hold the eggs in shallow tin cups over 
 a pan of boiling water, where they are cooked by the 
 steam, are easily handled and very convenient. 
 
 To Saute Eggs. — Break into separate cups as many 
 eggs as are to be cooked. Have, smoking hot, in the 
 saute pan or spider a teaspoonful of bacon or ham drip- 
 pings, or clarified butter for each egg. Put the eggs, 
 one at a time, into the pan, and as soon as they are all 
 in add two tablespoonfuls of hot water, cover the pan 
 with a close-fitting lid, and cook over a quick fire one 
 minute, when it will be seen upon lifting the lid that the 
 steam has drawn the white neatly over the yolk of each 
 egg. Continue the cooking more slowly until done as 
 
 desired, 
 
 311 
 
312 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs No. i. — Put in an omelet pan half 
 a teaspoonful of butter for each ^^^. When the butter 
 is hot pour in the eggs, without beating, and when set 
 on the bottom of the pan mix or scramble them lightly 
 with a fork or spoon. Cook as desired, season to taste, 
 and serve. Minced parsley is an excellent flavoring for 
 scrambled eggs. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs No. 2. — Put a teaspoonful of butter 
 in a sauce-pan, add half a cup of sweet milk or cream, 
 and when boiling hot pour in three well-beaten eggs. 
 Stir and beat the mixture with a wooden spoon until 
 sufficiently cooked, season to taste, and serve. 
 
 Shirred Eggs No. i. — Put in a shirred ^^^ dish a tea- 
 spoonful of melted butter for each ^^%. Break the eggs 
 separately, slip carefully into the dish, bake to taste in a 
 moderate oven, season with salt and pepper, and serve. 
 
 Shirred Eggs No. 2. — Separate the yolks from the 
 whites of two eggs, and preserve them unbroken. Beat 
 the whites very light, put into a shirred ^^^ dish, and, 
 with the back of a spoon, make two small cavities or 
 nests, in the beaten white, by packing, at equal distances 
 from each other and from the edges of the dish. Put 
 the yolks in these cavities, and set the dish in a 
 moderately hot oven until the yolks are cooked and the 
 ragged points of white nicely browned, then remove, 
 season with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve. The 
 whites and yolks should be cut up and mixed together 
 before they are eaten. Eggs shirred in this manner have 
 the flavor of roasted eggs. 
 
 Creamy Omelet. — Beat together lightly four eggs and 
 four teaspoonfuls of water, milk, or cream, just enough 
 
Eggs and Omelets. 313 
 
 to break and mix sufficient to allow a spoonful of the 
 mixture to be dipped up. Heat, but be careful not to 
 brown, a tablespoonful of butter in an omelet pan. Have 
 a pan that will correspond in size to the number of eggs 
 used, so that the beaten mixture will cover the bottom 
 to the depth of at least half an inch. Pour in the mix- 
 ture and place the pan over a quick heat, add salt and 
 pepper to taste, and as soon as the o.'g'g ' ' sets ' ' or 
 stiffens slightly upon the bottom of the pan, lift it up 
 lightly and carefully with a fork, so the uncooked egg 
 can take the place of that which is cooked. Continue 
 this lifting process as long as there is any uncooked egg 
 in the pan, and until all the mixture lies in a soft creamy 
 pile of a delicate golden hue. Permit the bottom to set 
 quite firmly, then tip the pan slightly, loosen the edges 
 with a broad-bladed, limber knife, or spatula, slip it 
 under one side of the omelet, and fold over, tipping 
 the pan at the same time to facilitate the folding. Then, 
 by still further tipping the pan, turn the omelet, nicely 
 folded, on a platter and serve hot. 
 
 If minced parsley is desired for flavoring, it should be 
 sprinkled over the omelet just before beginning the 
 lifting operation. 
 
 Ham Omelet. — Prepare and cook like a creamy omelet, 
 and, just before folding, cover the surface of the omelet 
 with boiled ham finely minced and warmed. Serve hot. 
 
 Oysters, shrimps, mushrooms, or any admixture liked, 
 may, after they are cooked, be added in a similar man- 
 ner. Grated cheese may also be scattered thickly over 
 the omelet, when first put in the pan, or the omelet may 
 be covered lightly with it just before folding. 
 
314 ^'^^^ -^^^ of Cookery. 
 
 Omelet with Breakfast Bacon. — Broil or saute thin 
 strips of breakfast bacon, and garnish a creamy or plain 
 omelet with them. 
 
 Light Omelet. — To the yolks of two eggs beaten light 
 add two tablespoonfuls of water, milk, or cream, beat 
 until well mixed, then fold in the whites of the eggs, 
 seasoned to taste with salt and pepper, and well beaten. 
 Grease the omelet pan with olive oil or clarified butter, 
 heat it, pour in the omelet, and cook for a minute — 
 lifting the pan so as to relieve the bottom from too great 
 heat, and turning it around on its sides. Then place in 
 a moderate oven for about five minutes, or until the 
 omelet is firm and lightly cooked to the center — which 
 can be ascertained by running a knife into it. Fold, and 
 turn out like a creamy omelet. 
 
 Orange Omelet. — To the yolks of two eggs beaten 
 light add two tablespoonfuls of orange juice, half a tea- 
 spoonful of grated orange peel, and two teaspoonfuls of 
 sugar. Beat all well together, fold in lightly the whites 
 of the eggs, beaten stiff, cook, fold, and turn out like 
 light omelet. 
 
 Omelet Souffle. — To the well-beaten yolks of two 
 eggs add three teaspoonfuls of sugar, one teaspoonful 
 of lemon juice, and half a teaspoonful of lemon, orange, 
 vanilla, or any flavoring extract liked. Beat very light 
 and fold in the whites of four eggs beaten stiff. Put in 
 a hot omelet pan, well greased, and cook ten or twelve 
 minutes, in a very moderate oven. Slip on to a warm 
 dish, without folding. A pinch of cream of tartar added 
 to the whites of the eggs improves all omelets containing 
 no other acid. 
 
PART VI.-SERVING AND GARNISHING. 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The rules that should govern the serving and garnish- 
 ing of food are founded upon common sense, and can 
 be compressed into a few words: Use platters larger 
 than are necessary for merely holding the food to be 
 served, so there may be space on them for garnishing 
 material, without having to place it against the food, or 
 at the extreme edge of the platter. 
 
 In garnishing aim to produce some distinctive effect — 
 either of harmony or contrast— and be careful to garnish 
 lightly. Edibles alone should be used for garnishing 
 material, and only such edibles as are palatable with the 
 food they are used to garnish. 
 
 Elaborate decoration of food, like elaborate decoration 
 in any direction, is indicative of an uncultured taste ; 
 and ribbons or paper, in such connection, are out of 
 place and have a cheap and tawdry appearance. 
 
 315 
 
CHAPTER XXV. 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 A DULL knife and a platter of insufficient size are the 
 dread of a skilled carver. To insure success in carving, 
 the carving knife must be sharp and the platter upon 
 which a fish, fowl, or joint of meat is sent to table large 
 enough to hold the article served upon it and leave 
 sufficient space besides for the different portions when 
 carved. 
 
 It is in accordance with common sense to either sit or 
 stand at table while carving and serving, and is therefore 
 good form for one so engaged to take whichever position 
 may be most conducive to comfort and effective work. 
 
 To Carve a Turkey. — Place the turkey on its back 
 
 on the platter with the head at the left. Stick the fork 
 
 firmly into the flesh astride the breast-bone. Separate 
 
 the wings from the body at the shoulders. Cut off the 
 
 legs or drumsticks at the lower joint. Insert the point 
 
 of the carving knife close to the thigh joint and cut 
 
 through the flesh of the thigh or second joint, parallel 
 
 with the bone, its entire length on both sides of the 
 
 bone, leaving a strip of flesh not much wider than the 
 
 bone, attached to it. Put the point of the knife under 
 
 the end of this bone and turn it back, thus separating it 
 
 from the body at the joint. After the wings and legs 
 
 and the bones from the second joint have been removed, 
 
 316 
 
Carving. 3^7 
 
 carve the meat from the breast and sides of the fowl in 
 thin sHces, cutting across the grain as long as well-shaped 
 slices can be obtained. Take off the wish-bone by put- 
 ting the knife under it at the front of the breast-bone and 
 turning it back. Slip the knife under the end of the 
 shoulder blade, tip the bone over, and remove it. Cut 
 through the cartilage which divides the ribs, and sepa- 
 rate the back from the breast. Turn the back, skin side 
 upward. Lay the edge of the knife across it just below 
 the ribs, lift up the tail end with the fork, and thus di- 
 vide the back into two pieces. Place the fork in the 
 middle of the back-bone and free the side-bone by cut- 
 ting close to the back-bone from one end to the other. 
 This completes the carving, and leaves the turkey in 
 such condition that the different portions can be served 
 as desired. If the entire turkey is not needed at a 
 meal, only such part of it as is wanted should be carved. 
 The method of carving other fowls is similar in most 
 respects to that of carving a turkey. 
 
 To Carve a Joint or Roast. — In carving a sirloin 
 roast cut out the tenderloin, slice it across the grain, and 
 serve before carving the balance of the roast— unless the 
 whole roast should be needed. Where a roast is too 
 large to be eaten at a single meal it is both wise and eco- 
 nomical to serve the best portions while hot, and before 
 their finest flavors and richest juices have escaped. In 
 carving a leg of lamb or mutton cut several slices cross- 
 wise through the thickest part of the leg, then slip the 
 knife under, separate them from the bone, and serve. 
 If more be required, cut them from the thickest and 
 juiciest part of the joint in the same manner. 
 
31 8 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 As a general rule, all joints of meat, whether roasted 
 or boiled, should be carved essentially in the same 
 manner, that is, they should be cut in thin slices and 
 across the grain of the meat. And whenever practi- 
 cable the joint should be so placed and held by the 
 carver that the juice will remain upon the surface of the 
 meat, and not run out upon the platter. 
 
CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE. 
 
 A DINNER of five courses is sufficiently elaborate to 
 meet the requirements of a cultured taste, and is always 
 enjoyable and satisfactory when the dishes composing it 
 are judiciously selected and properly served. In such a 
 dinner there should be a soup, fish, shell fish, or game, 
 poultry or one of the staple meats, a salad, an acid 
 vegetable or fruit, and a simple dessert, with salted 
 almonds, cheese, or some sort of relish, and also the 
 proper accompaniments of the leading dish of each 
 course. As great a variety of articles may be presented 
 as can be selected within a certain range and grouped 
 harmoniously. Yet no article in any one of the courses 
 must trench upon the province, or interfere with the 
 mission, of any article in any of the other courses of the 
 dinner. In other words, no articles that are similar in 
 character or flavor must be permitted to appear in 
 different courses, except those privileged by established 
 custom to remain on the table during the entire meal. 
 To illustrate the principle that governs the selection of 
 such a dinner a few bills of fare are given. 
 
 If a four-course dinner is desired, it is only necessary 
 to drop from any of these bills of fare the fish course. 
 If only a three-course dinner is wanted the fish course 
 and the salad course can be dropped ; or, if preferred, 
 
 319 
 
3 2d The Art of Cookery. 
 
 the salad course can be retained and the fish course and 
 dessert omitted. 
 
 These bills of fare are not arranged with a view of 
 their being taken up consecutively, in the order in which 
 they are given. Each dinner is complete in itself, with- 
 out an}^ reference to the dinner that precedes or the 
 dinner that follows, and the housekeeper is at liberty 
 to select from the list the dinner that is best adapted to 
 the special occasion. Care must be observed, however, 
 not to have dinners on two successive days that corres- 
 pond too nearly in their prominent characteristics. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE FOR DINNER. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Cream of Celery. 
 
 Pickles. Olives. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Birds. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Boiled Mutton. Caper Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potato. Stewed Turnip. 
 
 Fish and Tomato Salad. 
 Saltines. 
 
 Orange Pudding. Cake. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
Bills of Fare. 321 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Mutton Broth. Barley. 
 
 Celery. Pickles. Olives. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Scalloped Oysters. Cabbage Salad. 
 
 Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. Sweet Corn. 
 
 Fruit Salad. 
 
 Ice Cream. Cake. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Clear Soup. 
 
 Celery. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Fish. 
 Creamed Potatoes. Cucumbers. French Dressing. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 Browned Sweet Potatoes. Lima Beans. 
 
 Egg Salad. 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Strawberry Jelly. Whipped Cream. 
 
 Cake. Fruit. Nuts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
322 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Oysters on the Half Shell. 
 
 Lemon Points. Olives. Celery. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Mixed Soup. 
 
 Roast Chicken. Giblet Gravy. 
 
 Boiled Potato. Spaghetti with Cheese. 
 
 Fruit Sherbet. 
 
 Lettuce. French Dressing. 
 
 Toasted Crackers. 
 
 Steamed Pudding. Foamy Sauce. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 CofTee. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Boiled Cod. Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Olives. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Mushroom Patties. 
 
 Roast Lamb. Mint Sauce. 
 
 Green Peas. Cauliflower. 
 
 Chicken Salad. 
 
 Ice Cream. Cake. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
Bills of Far^e. 323 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Celery. Olives. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Sweetbreads. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. 
 
 Roast Fillet of Beef. Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 Hubbard Squash. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 Cheese Straws. Salted Almonds. 
 
 Caramel Custard. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 
 Olives. Celery. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Chicken Croquettes. Mock Bisque Sauce. 
 
 Roast Veal with Dressing. 
 
 Scalloped Tomatoes. Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Stewed Onions. 
 
 Broiled Birds. 
 Chicory. French Dressing. 
 
 Corn-Meal Pudding. 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
324 '^^^ -^^'^ ^f Cookery. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 Chicken Soup with Macaroni. 
 
 Olives. Celery. Salted Almonds. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Fish Cutlets. 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Roast Beef. Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 Stewed Corn. Mashed Potato. 
 
 Prune and Apricot Sauce. 
 
 Water Cress Salad. 
 
 Fig Pudding. Transparent Sauce. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Clear Soup. 
 
 Celery. , Olives. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Boiled Tongue. Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Stewed Chicken. 
 Mashed Turnips. Boiled Rice. 
 
 Mixed Fruit Salad. 
 
 Chocolate Cream. Cake. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
Bills of Fare. 325 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 Beef Broth. 
 
 Olives. Celery. 
 
 Bread. Butter, 
 
 Chicken Croquettes. Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 oast Pork. 
 
 Boiled Onions. 
 
 Fried 
 
 Apple Sauce. 
 Parsnips. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. 
 
 
 French Pudding. 
 Fruit. 
 
 Nuts. 
 Coffee. 
 
 Fruit Sauce. 
 Cheese. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 Salsify Soup. 
 
 Olives. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Boiled Fish. Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Carrots. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 
 Stewed Peas. Asparagus. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Tomato Salad. 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
326 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Asparagus Soup. 
 
 Olives. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Boston Baked Beans. 
 Brown Bread. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 Browned Potatoes. Stewed Tomatoes. 
 
 Boiled Hominy. 
 
 Broiled Birds. Chicory Salad. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding 
 Fruit. Nuts. 
 Coffee. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 
 Oxtail Soup. 
 Celery. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Olives. 
 
 Fish Croquettes. 
 
 Tomato Sauce, 
 
 Boiled Lamb. Egg 
 Mashed Potato. 
 
 Sauce. 
 Spinach. 
 
 
 Orange Salad. 
 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Apple Tapioca. 
 
 Nuts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
Bills of Fare, 
 
 327 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 Mock Bisque. 
 
 Olives. Celery. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Creamed Chicken on Toast. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 
 Browned Sweet Potatoes. Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Stewed Onions. 
 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 
 Cheese Straws. 
 
 
 Salted Almonds. 
 
 
 Custard Pie. 
 
 
 Fruit. 
 
 Nuts. 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 Clear Soup. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 Olives. 
 
 
 Celery. 
 
 Bread. 
 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Boiled Trout. 
 
 
 Drawn Butter. 
 
 Stewed Carrots. Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Roast Mutton. 
 
 Jelly. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Mashed Turnips. 
 
 Lettuce Salad 
 
 I. French Dressing. 
 
 Cheese Straws. 
 
 
 Salted Almonds. 
 
 Ice Cream. Cake. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
328 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 Cream of Potato. 
 
 Olives. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. 
 Asparagus on Toast. 
 
 Corned Beef. 
 
 Boiled Carrots. Boiled Turnips. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Lettuce Salad. French Dressing. 
 
 Rice Pudding. 
 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. 
 
 Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 
 Gumbo Soup. 
 
 
 Olives. 
 
 Celery. 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 aked Fish. Brown Butter. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes 
 
 Boiled Ham. 
 
 
 Mashed Potatoes. Spinach. 
 
 Macaroni. 
 
 Apple Salad. 
 
 
 Steamed Fruit Pudding. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. Cheese. 
 
 Coffee. 
 

 Bills of Fare. 
 
 
 329 
 
 Celery. 
 Bread. 
 
 No. i8. 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Olives. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 es. 
 
 White Sauce. 
 HoUandaise. 
 Boiled Hominy. 
 
 
 Sweetbread Timbal 
 
 
 Boiled Fowl. 
 
 Cauliflower. 
 Mashed Potato. 
 
 Sauce 
 
 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 
 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Fruit. Nuts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 Fish Chowder. 
 
 Olives. Pickles. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Creamed Potato. 
 
 Water Cress. 
 
 Baked Ham. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Baked Sweet Potatoes. Boiled Rice. 
 
 Fruit Salad. 
 
 Apple Pie. Edam Cheese. 
 
 Fruit. Wafers. Nuts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
330 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 Mock Turtle Soup, 
 
 Celery. Olives. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Oysters on Toast. 
 
 Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. 
 
 Mashed Potato. Browned Sweet Potato. 
 
 Curried Rice. 
 
 Sweetbread Salad. 
 Cheese Straws. Salted Almonds. 
 
 Plum Pudding. 
 
 Pumpkin Pie. Cheese. 
 
 Nuts. Fruit. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 21. 
 
 Green Turtle Soup. 
 
 Celery. Olives. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Quail on Toast. 
 Asparagus. Hollandaise Sauce. 
 
 Roast Venison. Jelly. 
 
 Mashed Potato. Stewed Carrots. 
 
 Boiled Macaroni. 
 
 Lettuce. French Dressing. 
 
 Crackers. Cheese. 
 
 Pine-Apple Jelly. 
 Fruit. Nuts. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
Bills of Fare. 331 
 
 The foregoing bills of fare were prepared upon the 
 presumption that a five-course dinner is usually served 
 in the evening, and is preceded by breakfast and 
 luncheon. But as a majority of people adhere to a 
 noon-day dinner and as the other meals of the day 
 should correspond with, and depend largely upon, the 
 structure of the dinner, the bills of fare that follow for 
 breakfast, luncheon, and supper are appropriate with 
 either evening or mid-day dinners and can be used for 
 that purpose without modification, or with such slight 
 variations — when any are desired — as will readily sug- 
 gest themselves to the mind of the busiest housekeeper. 
 Like the dinner bills of fare any of those given for 
 breakfast, luncheon, or supper can be used without re- 
 gard to the order in which they are arranged. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE FOR BREAKFAST. 
 No. I. 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Beefsteak. Fried Potatoes. French Rolls. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
332 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Fish. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Apples. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Creamed P 
 ast. 
 
 
 Oatmeal. 
 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Broiled ] 
 
 Buttered To 
 Coffee. 
 
 •otatoes. 
 
 No. 3. 
 Bananas. 
 
 Farinose. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Lamb Chops. Baked Potatoes. Corn Griddle Cakes. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 4. 
 Melons. 
 
 Rolled Wheat. Cream. 
 
 Bread, Butter. 
 
 Baked Hash. Hot Apple Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Eggs. Rice Muffins. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
Bills of Fare. 335 
 
 No. 5. 
 Grapes. 
 
 Hominy Grits. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Stewed Potatoes. Vienna Rolls. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Oranges. 
 
 Rolled Oats. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Codfish Balls. Poached Eggs on Toast. 
 
 French Rolls. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 7. 
 Mixed Fruits. 
 
 Boiled Rice. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Veal Chops. Brown Hashed Potato. 
 
 Buttered Toast. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
334 "^he Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 8. 
 Oranges. 
 
 Oatmeal. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Fried Oysters. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Creamed Hashed Potato. Corn-Bread. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Grapes and Apples. 
 
 Graham Mush. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Beefsteak. Lyonnaise Potato. 
 
 Whole Wheat Rolls. 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 Blackberry Mush. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter, 
 
 Broiled Ham. Creamy Omelet. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Federal Bread. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
Bills of Fare. 335 
 
 No. II. 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Creamed Hashed Potato. 
 
 Vienna Rolls. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Raspberries. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Mutton Chops. Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Rice Muffins. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 Blackberries. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Tripe. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. Sliced Tomatoes 
 
 Waffles. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
336 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. i\. 
 
 Strawberries. Cream. 
 
 Bread, Butter. 
 
 Broiled Beefsteak. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Graham Muffins. Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 Melon. 
 
 Oatmeal. Cream. 
 
 Bread, Butter, 
 
 Poached Eggs. Creamed Codfish. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. French Rolls. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 16. 
 Peaches. 
 
 Barley Grits. Cream. 
 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Sweetbreads Sauted. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Stewed Potatoes. Graham Muffins. 
 
 CofTee. 
 
Bills of Fare. 
 
 No. 17. 
 Mixed Fruits. 
 
 337 
 
 Farina. 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Broiled Mackerel. Plain Omelet. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. Brown Hashed Potato. 
 
 Vienna Rolls. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 Cracked Wheat. 
 Bread. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Cream. 
 Butter. 
 
 Scrambled Eggs. 
 Dry Toast. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 Oranges. 
 
 Corn-Meal Mush. 
 Bread. 
 
 Pork Chops. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 Apples Sauted. 
 Egg-Plant. 
 
338 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 
 
 
 Grapes. 
 
 ■^ 
 
 Boiled Rice. 
 
 
 Cream. 
 
 
 Bread, 
 con. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 
 Liver and Ba 
 
 Lyonnaise Potato. 
 
 Boiled Eggs 
 
 Flannel Cakes. 
 
 
 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 
 
 
 No. 21. 
 
 
 
 Mi 
 
 ixed Fruits. 
 
 
 Rolled Barley. 
 
 
 Cream. 
 
 
 Bread. 
 
 Butter. 
 
 
 Panned Oysters. Broiled Quail. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Rice Waffles. 
 
 Coffee. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE FOR LUNCHEON. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Cream of Celery. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Mashed Potato. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Vanilla Cream Pie. 
 
 Wafers. American Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
Bills of Fare. 339 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Boiled Tongue. Tomato Sauce. 
 
 Spinach. Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Ice Cream. Cake. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Cream of Corn. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Fish. Sliced Cucumbers. 
 
 Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Apple Pie. Edam Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Cream of Chicken. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Broiled Lamb Chops. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Ice Cream. Cake. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
340 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 5^ 
 
 Cream of Salsify. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Chicken Salad. Cold Boiled Ham. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Rice Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Fried Chicken. Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Cresses. French Dressing. 
 
 Orange Cream Pie. Pine-Apple Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Okra Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Scalloped Oysters. Cabbage Salad. 
 
 Cold Boiled Ham. Browned Sweet Potatoes. 
 
 Orange Pudding. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
Bills of Fare. 341 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 Bisque of Tomato. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Cold Roast Veal. 
 Spiced Peaches. Brown Hashed Potato. 
 
 Soft Ginger Cake. Saltines. Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Barley Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. Boiled Potatoes. 
 
 Graham Muffins. 
 
 Squash Pie. Edam Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 Brown Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Cold Roast Beef. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Sliced Tomatoes. 
 
 Ice Cream. Cake. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
342 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 Beef Broth. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Sauted Egg-Plant. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Boiled Rice. Whole Wheat Rolls. 
 
 Plum Pie. Pine-Apple Cheese. Wafers. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Mixed Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Cold Roast Turkey. Cranberry Jelly. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Celery. 
 
 Rice Pudding. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Pork Chops. Apple Sauce. 
 
 Boiled Potatoes. Corn Crusts. 
 
 Snow Pudding. Wafers. Cheese. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
Bills of Fare. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 Bisque of Clams. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 343 
 
 Sweetbread Salad. 
 French Rolls. 
 
 Cold Boiled Ham. 
 Raspberry Jam. 
 
 Pine-Apple Fritters. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 Pur^e of Potato. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Cold Roast Lamb, Com Oysters. 
 
 Potato Salad. Graham Rolls. 
 
 Huckleberry Pie. Edam Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 Hominy Soup. 
 
 Bread. 
 Broiled Ham. 
 
 Butter. 
 Creamy Omelet. 
 
 Stewed Apricots. 
 
 Lyonnaise Potato. 
 
 Peach Fritters. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
344 '^'^^ ^^^ of Cookery. 
 
 INo. 17. 
 
 Pur6e of Peas. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Fried Oysters. Cold Catsup. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Tropical Toast. 
 
 Pine-Apple Pudding. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 Noodle Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Liver and Bacon. Fried Onions. 
 
 Boiled Hominy. Vienna Rolls. 
 
 Cherry Pie. American Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Beefsteak Pie. Tomato Salad. 
 
 Rice Croquettes. 
 
 Fruit. Saltines. Cheese. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
Bills of Fare. 345 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 Clear Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 English Meat Pie. Mixed Pickles. 
 
 French Rolls. Orange Marmalade. 
 
 Strawberry Pudding. 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 No. 21. 
 
 Clear Soup. 
 Bread. Butter. 
 
 Saut6d Sweetbreads. Radishes. 
 
 Breakfast Bacon. Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Fruits in Jelly. Angel Cake. 
 
 Tea or Cocoa. 
 
 BILLS OF FARE FOR SUPPER. 
 
 No. I. 
 
 Turkey Hash on Toast. Cold Ham. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Raspberries. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
346 The Art of Cookery. 
 
 No. 2. 
 
 Broiled Beefsteak. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Hashed Potato. Dewberries. French Rolls. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 3. 
 
 Cold Roast Beef. Cold Catsup. 
 
 Boiled Rice. Blackberries. Wheat Griddle Cakes. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 4. 
 
 Cold Roast Veal. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Spiced Plums. Corn Crusts. Sponge Cake. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 5. 
 
 Broiled Ham. Scrambled Eggs. 
 
 Stewed Potato. Milk Toast. Peaches in Jelly. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 6. 
 
 Fish Croquettes. Breakfast Bacon. 
 
 Cottage Cheese. Boiled Potatoes, 
 
 Corn-Bread. Jelly Cake, 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
Bills of Fare. 347 
 
 No. 7. 
 
 Frizzled Beef. Baked Potatoes. 
 
 Baking Powder Biscuit. Strawberries. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 8. 
 
 Broiled Chicken. Tomato Salad. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. Waffles. Orange Layer Cake. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 9. 
 
 Codfish Balls. Cold Boiled Ham. 
 
 Apple Salad. Vienna Rolls. Peaches. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 10. 
 
 Cold Roast Lamb. Creamed Potatoes. 
 
 Ripe Currants. French Rolls. Ginger Wafers. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. II. 
 
 Fried Oysters. Cabbage Salad. 
 
 Cold Boiled Ham. Olives. Vienna Rolls. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
34^ The Art of Cookery, 
 
 No. 12. 
 
 Cold Roast Chicken. Fried Potatoes. 
 
 Celery. Olives. Federal Bread. 
 
 Soft Ginger Cake. Edam Cheese. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 13. 
 
 Boned Turkey. Fried Scollops. 
 
 Baked Potatoes. Celery. Vienna Rolls. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 14. 
 
 Scrapple. Cold Roast Mutton. 
 
 Onion Salad. Scalloped Potatoes. 
 
 French Rolls. Nut Cake. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 15. 
 
 Veal Chops. Deviled Crabs. 
 
 Lyonnaise Potato. Graham Rolls. Fruit Jam. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 16. 
 
 Pressed Corned Beef. Spiced Pickles. 
 
 Shirred Eggs. Potato Croquettes. 
 
 Wheat Muffins. Chocolate Cake. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
Bills of Fare. 549 
 
 No. 17. 
 
 Broiled Quail. Currant Jelly. 
 
 Welsh Rarebit. Baked Sweet Potatoes. Imperial Rolls. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 18. 
 
 Cold Roast Turkey. Scalloped Oysters. 
 
 Potato Croquettes. Cranberry Sauce. Celery. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 19. 
 
 Lamb Chops. Cress. 
 
 Fried Potatoes. Pop-Overs. Blackberries. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 20. 
 
 Cold Boiled Tongue. Panned Oysters. 
 
 Potato Salad. Fruit Jam. Rice Muffins. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
 No. 21. 
 
 Pork Chops. Hot Apple Sauce. 
 
 Scalloped Potatoes. Corn Griddle Cakes. 
 
 Bread. Butter. Tea. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Almonds, baked .... 63 
 
 " to blanch , . . 63 
 
 Anchovy sauce 133 
 
 Angel cake 247 
 
 Apple fritters 141 
 
 " jelly 174 
 
 '* pie No. I 217 
 
 " " No. 2 217 
 
 '* " No. 3 217 
 
 " " English, No. i 218 
 
 No. 2 218 
 
 ** " New England . 218 
 
 " pudding, baked, 
 
 No. I 239 
 
 Apple pudding, baked. 
 
 No. 2 239 
 
 Apple pudding, steamed, 
 
 No. I 236 
 
 Apple pudding, steamed. 
 
 No. 2 236 
 
 Apple roly-poly 237 
 
 " salad No. i . . . 272 
 
 ** " No. 2 . . . 272 
 
 " " No. 3 . . . 272 
 
 " sauce 95 
 
 " " cider ... 97 
 
 " strudels 218 
 
 " tapioca pudding . 238 
 
 " tart 224 
 
 ** water 158 
 
 Apples, fried 139 
 
 " to bake. No. i . 62 
 
 No. 2 . 62 
 
 " to prepare ... 28 
 
 ** to saut6 . . . . 149 
 
 Apples, to stew dried . 
 " '* fresh . 
 Apricot tapioca pudding 
 Apricots, to stew dried 
 
 99 
 95 
 
 238 
 98 
 
 Arrow-root blanc- mange 229 
 
 Asparagus broth .... 107 
 
 cream of . . . 116 
 
 peas 92 
 
 pur6e of . . . 122 
 
 salad .... 275 
 
 stock . . . . 103 
 
 to boil .... 72 
 
 to can .... 167 
 
 to stew .... 92 
 
 to wash ... 25 
 
 Aspic jelly 305 
 
 Bacon, to prepare .... 23 
 
 " to saut^ 148 
 
 Baked chicken pie . . . 225 
 " corn-meal pudding 
 
 No. I 232 
 
 Baked corn-meal pudding 
 
 No. 2 233 
 
 Baked custard 231 
 
 ' ' sago custard . . . 232 
 " tapioca custard . . 232 
 " tapioca pudding . 238 
 
 Baking 46 
 
 Baking powder biscuit 
 
 No. I 197 
 
 Baking powder biscuit 
 
 No. 2 197 
 
 Baking powder biscuit 
 No. 3 197 
 
 351 
 
35^ 
 
 Index. 
 
 Banana cream 258 
 
 fritters 141 
 
 " ice 261 
 
 " pudding 257 
 
 " salad No. i . . . 271 
 
 " " No. 2 . . . 271 
 
 " " No. 3 . . . 271 
 
 *' sauce 245 
 
 " shortcake .... 203 
 
 Bananas, to bake .... 63 
 
 " to saut6 ... .150 
 
 Barley gruel 157 
 
 " rolled, to cook . . 77 
 
 " soup 113 
 
 Batter pudding, steamed . 233 
 
 " " to steam a 83 
 
 Bavarian cream 256 
 
 ** ** chocolate 256 
 
 *' ** with eggs 256 
 
 Beans, pur^e of, No. i . . 123 
 
 ** " " No. 2 . . 123 
 
 " ♦* No. 3 . . 123 
 
 " to bake 62 
 
 " to boil green string 72 
 
 " to can 167 
 
 " to select 16 
 
 " to stew dried ... 91 
 
 " to stew green . . 90 
 
 *' to string 25 
 
 Beaten biscuit 197 
 
 Beef broth No. i . . . . 108 
 
 " broth No. 2 . . . . 108 
 
 " extract 109 
 
 " frizzled 291 
 
 " stock 103 
 
 " tea No. I 108 
 
 " •• No. 2 108 
 
 ** to boil corned ... 70 
 
 *' to boil spiced ... 70 
 
 ** to prepare a roast of 22 
 
 Beef, to roast 49 
 
 " to select 10 
 
 '' to stew 86 
 
 Beefsteak pie 224 
 
 " to saut^ .... 151 
 
 " to toast .... 162 
 
 Beet salad No. i , . . . 274 
 
 " *' No. 2 . . . . 275 
 
 " and potato salad . . 275 
 
 Beets, pur^e of 124 
 
 " to boil 73 
 
 " to stew 90 
 
 Berries, to pick over . . 29 
 
 " to select .... 16 
 
 " to wash . . . . 29 
 
 Beverages 77 
 
 Bills of fare 319 
 
 Bird, to bone a 309 
 
 " to draw a 21 
 
 Biscuit, baking powder, 
 
 No. I 197 
 
 Biscuit, baking powder. 
 
 No. 2 197 
 
 Biscuit, baking powder, 
 
 No. 3 197 
 
 Biscuit, beaten 197 
 
 Bisque of clams .... 121 
 
 " " lobster . . . . 121 
 
 ** " oysters .... 121 
 
 " " tomato .... 120 
 
 Bisques 120 
 
 Black tea, to make ... 79 
 
 Blackberry jam 173 
 
 jelly 174 
 
 " mush .... 162 
 
 " pie 219 
 
 " pudding . . . 237 
 
 Blanc -mange, arrow -root 229 
 
 " cornstarch . 229 
 
 *' farina . . . 229 
 
Index. 
 
 353 
 
 Blanc-mange, farinose . . 230 
 
 " Iceland moss 228 
 
 " Irish moss . 228 
 " rolled wheat 229 
 
 " sea moss , 228 
 
 . 67 
 
 • 230 
 
 • 230 
 . 230 
 . 231 
 . 242 
 
 • 243 
 . 252 
 
 • 252 
 . 253 
 . 65 
 
 • 307 
 , 206 
 . 89 
 . 206 
 . 200 
 
 189 
 
 Boil, how to . . . . 
 Boiled custard No. i 
 No. 2 
 " No. 3 
 No. 4 
 " No. 5 
 No. 6 
 " frosting No. i 
 No. 2 
 No. 3 
 
 Boiling 
 
 Boned meats .... 
 Boston brown bread . 
 
 Braising 
 
 Bread, Boston brown 
 cakes .... 
 compressed yeast 
 
 corn 210 
 
 crumbs, to prepare 27 
 entire wheat flour 205 
 
 federal 195 
 
 French 189 
 
 graham 204 
 
 grease in . . . . 191 
 
 liquid yeast . . . 192 
 
 sauce No. i . . . 132 
 
 " No. 2 . . .132 
 
 sugar in 191 
 
 to toast 40 
 
 Vienna .... 189, 191 
 whole wheat flour 205 
 Bread and butter pudding 
 
 No. I 237 
 
 Bread and butter pudding 
 No. 2 238 
 
 Bread -making 182 
 
 Breakfast bacon, omelet 
 
 with 314 
 
 Breakfast bacon, to pre- 
 pare 23 
 
 Breakfast bacon, to saute 14S 
 
 Breakfast hash 295 
 
 Broil, how to -. 35 
 
 Broiling 34 
 
 " griddle 41 
 
 " oven 43 
 
 Broth, asparagus .... 107 
 
 beef. No. i . . . . 108 
 
 '' No. 2 . . 
 celery .... 
 chicken, No. i 
 " No. 2 
 " No. 3 
 clam, No. i . 
 " No. 2 . 
 mutton, No. i 
 No. 2 
 oyster . . . 
 salsify . . . 
 toast .... 
 veal .... 
 Brown bread, Boston 
 Brown butter No. i 
 " No 
 " No 
 " sauce No 
 " No 
 " No 
 " soup No. I . 
 " No. 2. 
 " No. 3. 
 Browned flour gruel 
 " hashed potato 
 " potato cakes . 
 ** sliced potatoes 
 
 108 
 106 
 107 
 108 
 108 
 107 
 107 
 109 
 109 
 107 
 107 
 162 
 109 
 206 
 127 
 127 
 127 
 128 
 128 
 129 
 117 
 118 
 118 
 158 
 296 
 297 
 297 
 
:^54 
 
 Index. 
 
 Buckwheat cakes No. i . 201 
 
 " No. 2 . 202 
 
 Buns 195 
 
 Butter, brown, No. i . . 127 
 
 No. 2 . . 127 
 
 No. 3 . . 127 
 
 " clarified 147 
 
 " drawn 127 
 
 " parsley, No. i . . 127 
 
 No. 2 . . 127 
 
 " and sugar, creamed 243 
 
 Cabbage, pickled ... . 175 
 
 " salad 273 
 
 ** to boil .... 73 
 
 " to prepare . . 25 
 
 " to select ... 15 
 
 " to stew .... 92 
 
 Cake, angel 247 
 
 " citron 250 
 
 " coffee 196 
 
 " delicate 249 
 
 " nut 250 
 
 " pans 248 
 
 " pound 249 
 
 " rich fruit 249 
 
 " soft ginger .... 250 
 
 " sponge 248 
 
 " sunshine 248 
 
 Cake-making 247 
 
 Cakes, bread 200 
 
 " browned potato . . 297 
 
 " buckwheat, No. i 201 
 
 No. 2 202 
 
 " corn griddle, No. i 211 
 
 No. 2 211 
 
 '* flannel 200 
 
 ** potato and fish . . 297 
 
 ** wheat griddle, No. i 199 
 
 " " " No. 2 199 
 
 Cakes, wheat griddle, No. 3 
 
 Calf's brains, to saut6 
 
 ' ' head, to prepare a 
 
 Canning, preserving, and 
 
 pickling 
 
 Caper sauce No. i . 
 '' No. 2 . 
 Caramel custard . . 
 " sauce . . . 
 Carrots, pur^e of . . 
 to boil . . , 
 " to prepare . 
 " to select . , 
 " to stew . . , 
 
 Carving , 
 
 Catsup, cold ... 
 
 " cucumber . . 
 Cauliflower, to boil , 
 " to prepare 
 
 '' to select 
 
 Celery broth .... 
 " cream of. No. i 
 " No. 2 
 '' salad .... 
 " sauce .... 
 " stock .... 
 " to prepare . . 
 " to select . . . 
 " to stew . . . 
 
 Cereals 
 
 " to cook . . . 
 Ceylon tea, to make . 
 Charlotte Russe No. i 
 " No. 2 
 Cheese, cottage . . . 
 soufli6 No. I 
 " No. 2 
 " straws No. i 
 " No. 2 
 Cherries, to can, No. i 
 
 T99 
 152 
 296 
 
 163 
 130 
 130 
 232 
 
 243 
 124 
 
 73 
 24 
 
 15 
 
 91 
 316 
 
 176 
 
 176 
 
 72 
 
 25 
 
 15 
 
 106 
 
 116 
 
 273 
 
 131 
 
 103 
 
 26 
 
 16 
 
 92 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 
 79 
 
 255 
 
 256 
 
 228 
 
 302 
 
 302 
 
 304 
 
 304 
 
 166 
 
Index. 
 
 355 
 
 Cherries, to can, No. 2 . . 166 
 " to preserve . . 170 
 
 Cherry pie 220 
 
 " pudding, steamed 236 
 
 " sauce 245 
 
 Chestnuts, pur^e of . . .124 
 Chicory, to prepare ... 26 
 Chicken broth No. i . . . 107 
 " No. 2 . . . 108 
 " No. 3 . . . 108 
 cream of . . . . 116 
 creamed .... 283 
 
 creamy 297 
 
 croquettes No. i 144 
 
 " No. 2 144 
 
 No. 3 144 
 
 No. 4 145 
 
 fricasseed ... 291 
 
 fried 145 
 
 jeUied 306 
 
 patties 226 
 
 pie, baked . . . 225 
 
 salad No. i . . . 277 
 
 " No. 2 . . . 277 
 
 " No. 3. . . 277 
 
 " with lettuce 27S 
 
 souffle 302 
 
 stock 104 
 
 68 
 
 38 
 89 
 
 54 
 
 151 
 
 84 
 
 to boil a . . . 
 
 to broil a . . . 
 
 to fricassee a . 
 
 to roast a . , 
 
 to saut6 . . , 
 
 to stew a . . 
 
 and oyster hash 293 
 
 with mushrooms, 
 
 stewed 86 
 
 Chicken, with truffles, 
 
 stewed 86 
 
 Chocolate Bavarian cream 256 
 
 Chocolate frostinj^^ .... 253 
 " to make . . So, 161 
 
 Chops, fried veal 146 
 
 " to broil .... 37, 42 
 
 " to prepare .... 23 
 
 " tosaut^pork. . . 151 
 
 veal ... 150 
 
 Chowder, clam 120 
 
 " fish 120 
 
 Cider apple sauce .... 97 
 
 Cinnamon rolls 196 
 
 Citron cake 250 
 
 Clam broth No. i 107 
 
 " No. 2 ... . 107 
 
 " chowder 120 
 
 Clams, bisque of 121 
 
 deviled 289 
 
 " to steam 82 
 
 Clarified butter 147 
 
 Clear soup 109, no 
 
 " " with curry . . no 
 " "dainty dump- 
 lings no 
 
 Clear soup with fancy vege- 
 tables Ill 
 
 Clear soup with macedoine 
 
 vegetables iii 
 
 Clear soup with mixed 
 
 flavoring in 
 
 Clear soup with poached 
 
 eggs no 
 
 Clear soup with sliced 
 
 lemon no 
 
 Clear soup with tapioca . 1 10 
 Coal fire, management of 30 
 
 Cocoa No. I 161 
 
 " No. 2 161 
 
 No. 3 161 
 
 " to make 80 
 
 Codfish balls 144 
 
356 
 
 Index. 
 
 Codfish cakes, to saut^ . 
 
 * ' creamed 
 
 " scalloped .... 
 " and oysters, scal- 
 loped 
 
 Coffee cake 
 
 ' ' crust 
 
 " hygienic 
 
 " ice cream 
 
 " to make, No. i . . 
 No. 2 . . 
 No. 3 . . 
 
 Cold catsup 
 
 Compound stock 
 
 Compressed yeast .... 
 " bread . 
 
 Cooked frosting 
 
 " mayonnaise dress- 
 ing 
 
 Cookery, sick-room . . . 
 Cooking, methods of . . . 
 
 Corn, cream of 
 
 " crusts 
 
 '* dodgers 
 
 " fritters 
 
 " griddle cakes No. i . 
 
 No. 2 . 
 
 '* muffins No. i . . . 
 
 " No. 2 . . . 
 
 " fried . . . 
 
 * ' oysters 
 
 " soup 
 
 " to bake. No. i . . . 
 No. 2 . . . 
 
 " to boil 
 
 " to can 
 
 '* to select green . . . 
 
 " to steam 
 
 " to stew 
 
 Corned beef, pressed . . . 
 
 154 j Corned beef, to boil ... 70 
 
 285 I Corn-bread 210 
 
 287 I " fried 140 
 
 Corn-meal 207 
 
 288 
 196 
 158 
 
 79 
 262 
 
 77 
 78 
 78 
 176 
 104 
 186 
 189 
 251 
 
 281 
 156 
 
 33 
 
 117 
 
 210 
 
 209 
 
 141 
 
 211 
 
 211 
 
 210 
 
 210 
 
 140 
 
 153 
 
 113 
 
 61 
 
 61 
 
 72 
 
 167 
 
 16 
 
 82 
 
 91 
 306 
 
 " granulated . . 208 
 
 gruel 157 
 
 *' mush 211 
 
 ** pudding,baked, 
 
 No. I 232 
 
 Corn-meal pudding,baked, 
 
 No. 2 233 
 
 Cornstarch blanc-mange, 
 
 No. I 229 
 
 Cornstarch blanc-mange, 
 
 No. 2 229 
 
 Cottage cheese 228 
 
 Crab-apple jelly 175 
 
 Crabs, deviled 289 
 
 " to saut^ 152 
 
 Cracked wheat muffins . 207 
 " " rolls . . 207 
 " " to cook . 77 
 Cracker crumbs, to pre- 
 pare 27 
 
 Cranberries, to stew, No. i 96 
 ' " No. 2 96 
 
 Cranberry jelly 96 
 
 " tart 224 
 
 Cream, banana 258 
 
 " Bavarian .... 256 
 " " with eggs 256 
 " chocolate Bava- 
 rian 256 
 
 Cream dressing 281 
 
 " ice. No. I . . . . 262 
 '* ice. No. 2 . . . . 262 
 " ice, No. 3 . . . . 262 
 
 " mock 242 
 
 " orange 257 
 
 " pie, lemon . . . 223 
 
Index. 
 
 357 
 
 Cream pie, orange . . . 223 
 
 " ** vanilla .... 223 
 
 " pine-apple .... 257 
 
 " plain 241 
 
 " strawberry .... 258 
 
 " whipped 241 
 
 Cream of asparagus . . . 116 
 
 " " celery No. i . . 115 
 
 " No. 2. . 116 
 
 " " chicken .... 116 
 
 " " corn 116 
 
 " " salsify 116 
 
 " " yeal 117 
 
 Creamed asparagus patties 226 
 
 " butter and sugar 243 
 
 " celery patties . . 226 
 
 ** chicken .... 283 
 
 ** codfish .... 285 
 
 fish 283 
 
 " green pea patties 226 
 
 " lobster 284 
 
 " macaroni .... 285 
 " mock terrapin 
 
 patties 226 
 
 Creamed mushroom pat- 
 ties 226 
 
 Creamed oyster patties . . 226 
 
 " oysters No. i . 284 
 
 *' ** No. 2 . 284 
 
 " potatoes .... 285 
 
 " rice 234 
 
 sago 234 
 
 ** salmon .... 285 
 " shrimps .... 284 
 " sweetbread pat- 
 ties 226 
 
 Creamed sweetbreads . . 284 
 
 " tapioca .... 284 
 
 " toast 285 
 
 Creamy chicken croquettes 297 
 
 Creamy omelet 312 
 
 Crescents 195 
 
 Cress, to prepare .... 26 
 
 Croquettes, chicken. No. i 144 
 
 ** No. 2 144 
 
 . " No. 3 144 
 
 " No. 4 145 
 
 " creamy chicken 297 
 
 143 
 143 
 143 
 299 
 299 
 300 
 
 143 
 300 
 144 
 
 145 
 
 145 
 
 27 
 
 27 
 
 27 
 
 fish . . . 
 " hominy . 
 
 lobster . . 
 ** potato. No. 
 
 " No 
 " No 
 " rice, No. i 
 
 '' No. 2 
 " shrimp . . 
 
 " sweetbread 
 
 veal . . . 
 Crumbs No. i . . . 
 No. 2 ... . 
 No. 3 . . . 
 
 Crust, coffee 
 
 Crusts, corn 
 
 Cucumber catsup . . 
 " pickles . . 
 
 salad . . . 
 " and fish salad 
 
 Cucumbers, to prepare 
 " to select 
 
 " to stew 
 
 Currant jam . . . 
 " jelly. . . 
 " salad . . 
 Curried oysters . 
 " rice . . . 
 toast . . 
 Custard, baked . 
 " boiled, No. i 
 No. 2 
 
 158 
 210 
 176 
 177 
 
 273 
 
 279 
 
 26 
 
 16 
 
 91 
 
 173 
 
 175 
 
 270 
 
 288 
 
 286 
 
 286 
 
 231 
 
 230 
 
 230 
 
o5^ 
 
 Index. 
 
 Custard, boiled, No. 3 . . 230 
 
 " " No. 4 . . 231 
 
 ** " No. 5 . . 242 
 
 «* •' No. 6 . . 243 
 
 ** caramel .... 232 
 
 " pie 222 
 
 " sago 232 
 
 " tapioca 232 
 
 Custards, to bake .... 64 
 
 Cutlets, lobster 298 
 
 Damson pie 220 
 
 Damsons, spiced 177 
 
 Delicate cake 249 
 
 "■ desserts .... 254 
 
 Deviled clams 289 
 
 '* crabs 289 
 
 " eggs 290 
 
 " lobster 290 
 
 Diamonds, graham . . . 205 
 
 Dipped toast 286 
 
 Dodgers, corn 209 
 
 Dough, the proper consis- 
 tency of 189, 191 
 
 Dough, when sufficiently 
 
 light 190 
 
 Doughnuts, fried 139 
 
 Drawn butter 127 
 
 Dressing, cooked mayon- 
 naise 281 
 
 Dressing, cream 281 
 
 " French, No. i . 280 
 
 " " No. 2 . 280 
 
 ** mayonnaise . . 280 
 
 Duck, to roast wild ... 55 
 
 Egg nog 159 
 
 Egg pastry 216 
 
 ** plant, to saut6 .... 147 
 
 *' ** to select ... 16 
 
 Egg salad No. i 279 
 
 " No. 2 279 
 
 sauce 128 
 
 to boil an . . . . 70, 311 
 
 to poach an 311 
 
 to saut6 an 311 
 
 whips 
 
 " with syrup , 
 
 Eggs, deviled 
 
 scalloped. No. i . 
 
 No. 2 . 
 
 scrambled. No. i 
 
 No. 2 
 
 shirred, No. i . . 
 
 No. 2 . . 
 
 159 
 160 
 290 
 288 
 288 
 312 
 312 
 312 
 312 
 
 to select 13 
 
 83 
 311 
 218 
 218 
 
 79 
 226 
 
 to steam 
 
 and omelets . . . 
 
 English apple pie No. i . 
 
 '* No. 2. 
 
 ' ' breakfast tea . 
 
 English meat pie . . . 
 
 Entire wheat flour bread 
 
 '' gruel 
 
 Entrees and side dishes. 
 
 205 
 158 
 283 
 
 Farina blanc-mange . . . 229 
 
 " gruel 157 
 
 " how to cook ... 77 
 
 Farinose blanc-mange . . 230 
 
 gruel 157 
 
 " how to cook . . 77 
 
 Federal bread 195 
 
 Fig pudding 240 
 
 Fish balls 144 
 
 " cakes 154 
 
 ** chowder 120 
 
 " creamed 283 
 
 " croquettes 143 
 
 " deviled 290 
 
Index. 
 
 359 
 
 Fish fried 146 
 
 ** hash 292 
 
 " pie 225 
 
 " sauce 130 
 
 ** scalloped, No. i . . 2S7 
 
 No. 2. . . 287 
 
 " stuffing for 28 
 
 " to bake a 56 
 
 " to boil a 69 
 
 " to bone a 22 
 
 " to broil a 39, 45 
 
 " to prepare a .... 21 
 
 " to prepare salted . . 24 
 
 " to saut6 152 
 
 ** to select 14 
 
 " to steam a 81 
 
 ' ' turbans 299 
 
 Flaky pie crust 215 
 
 Flannel cakes 200 
 
 Flour 184 
 
 " gluten in 184 
 
 " graham 205 
 
 " nitrogenous matter 
 
 in 184 
 
 Flour, pastry 186 
 
 " patent 184, 185 
 
 ** spring wheat . . . . 186 
 
 " strength of 185 
 
 " winter wheat .... 186 
 
 Foamy sauce No. i . . , 244 
 
 " No. 2 . . . 244 
 
 Food materials 17 
 
 care of. . 18 
 " " preparation 
 
 of 20 
 
 Fowl, to boil a 69 
 
 * ' to bone a 309 
 
 " to carve a 317 
 
 * ' to draw a 20 
 
 ** to pick a 20 
 
 Fowl, to wash a 20 
 
 French bread 189 
 
 ' dressing 280 
 
 ' pancakes 199 
 
 ' pudding 234 
 
 ' rolls No. I . . . . 193 
 
 " No. 2 . . . . 193 
 
 " No. 3. ... 194 
 
 ' toast 304 
 
 Fricasseed chicken . . . . 29 t 
 
 " oysters .... 290 
 
 " salt pork . . . 291 
 
 Fricasseeing 88 
 
 Fried apples 139 
 
 " chicken 145 
 
 " corn-bread 140 
 
 " corn muffins .... 140 
 
 " doughnuts 139 
 
 " fish 146 
 
 " mush 146 
 
 " onions 139 
 
 " oysters 146 
 
 " potatoes 138 
 
 " prairie chicken . . . 145 
 
 " quail 145 
 
 " veal chops 146 
 
 Fritters, apple 141 
 
 " banana 141 
 
 " corn 141 
 
 " oysters 142 
 
 " peach 141 
 
 " pine-apple .... 141 
 
 " plain 140 
 
 " sweetbread . . . 142 
 
 Frizzled beef 291 
 
 Frosting 251 
 
 " boiled, No. i . . 252 
 
 No. 2 . . 252 
 
 " No. 3. . 253 
 
 " chocolate .... 253 
 
36o 
 
 hidex. 
 
 Frosting, uncooked. ... 251 
 
 Fruit cake 249 
 
 ** pudding, steamed . 236 
 
 " salads 269 
 
 " toast 162 
 
 ** and bread puddings 238 
 
 ** " rice puddings . 238 
 
 Fruits, to cook fresh . . 94 
 
 dried . . 97 
 
 " to select 16 
 
 " in jelly 258 
 
 Frying 136 
 
 Gems, graham 205 
 
 ** " with eggs . 206 
 
 ** sour 
 
 milk 206 
 
 Gems, graham, with sweet 
 
 milk 206 
 
 German coffee cake . . . 196 
 Giblets, stewed, with 
 
 mushrooms 292 
 
 Ginger cake 250 
 
 " wafers 250 
 
 Glaze 134 
 
 Gluten 184 
 
 " gruel 158 
 
 Gooseberries, to stew 
 
 green 96 
 
 Gooseberry marmalade . 174 
 
 " pie 220 
 
 Graham bread 204 
 
 " diamonds . . . 205 
 " flour gruel ... 158 
 " gems, plain . . 205 
 " " with eggs 206 
 
 ** " with sour 
 
 milk 206 
 
 Graham gems with sweet 
 milk 206 
 
 Granulated corn-meal . , 208 
 Grape jelly 175, 254 
 
 *' marmalade . . . 
 
 174 
 
 " pie 
 
 220 
 
 Grease in bread .... 
 
 191 
 
 Green pea patties . . . 
 
 226 
 
 " tea 
 
 79 
 
 " tomato pickles . 
 
 176 
 
 " turtle soup . . . 
 
 119 
 
 Griddle broiling . . . 
 
 41 
 
 '' cakes, corn, No. i 211 
 
 " No. 2 211 
 
 *' " wheat. No. i 199 
 
 " No. 2 199 
 
 " No. 3 199 
 
 " to broil chops on a 42 
 
 " " oysters on a 43 
 
 " " steaks on a 42 
 
 Grouse, to broil 39 
 
 *' to saut6 .... 152 
 
 Gruel, barley 157 
 
 " browned flour . .158 
 " corn-meal . . . . 157 
 
 " farina 157 
 
 ** farinose 158 
 
 " gluten flour . . . 158 
 " graham flour ... 158 
 " Irish moss .... 158 
 
 '' oatmeal 157 
 
 " peeled wheat flour 158 
 
 " rice 157 
 
 " rolled wheat . . . 157 
 " sea moss .... 158 
 " white flour .... 157 
 " whole wheat flour 158 
 
 Gruels 156 
 
 Gumbo soup 118 
 
 Ham, for baking or boiling, 
 
 to prepare a . . . . 23 
 
Index. 
 
 361 
 
 Ham omelet 313 
 
 " to boil a 69 
 
 " to broil 40 
 
 " to prepare 23 
 
 *' to saute 148 
 
 " to select 13 
 
 Hamburg steak, to saut^ . 151 
 
 Hash, breakfast 295 
 
 " chicken and oyster 293 
 
 *' fish 292 
 
 mutton 295 
 
 " to saut6 154 
 
 turkey 293 
 
 " turkey and oyster . 293 
 
 " veal 294 
 
 Hashed potato 296 
 
 Heart, to bake a . . . . 55 
 
 " to braise a . . . . 90 
 
 Hollandaise sauce No. i . 133 
 
 •* " No. 2 . 133 
 
 Hominy croquettes . . . 143 
 
 muffins 212 
 
 rolls 212 
 
 soup 113 
 
 to cook .... 77 
 
 to saut6 .... 153 
 
 Huckleberry pie . . . . 220 
 
 " pudding . . 238 
 
 " pudding, steamed 237 
 
 Hygienic coffee, to make 79 
 
 Ice, banana 261 
 
 ** lemon 261 
 
 " orange 261 
 
 " strawberry 261 
 
 Ice cream No. i 262 
 
 " '« No. 2 262 
 
 *< " No. 3 262 
 
 ** " coffee .... 262 
 
 ** " pine-apple . . 262 
 
 Ice cream, strawberry . . 262 
 Iceland moss blanc-mange 228 
 
 Imperial rolls 193 
 
 Irish moss blanc-mange . 228 
 " gruel . . . . 158 
 
 Jam, blackberry 173 
 
 " currant 173 
 
 " raspberry 172 
 
 ** strawberry 172 
 
 Jams 94 
 
 Jellied chicken 306 
 
 Jellies 94 
 
 Jelly, apple i74 
 
 " aspic 305 
 
 '* blackberry ... .174 
 "■ crab-apple .... 175 
 
 " cranberry 96 
 
 " currant 175 
 
 " fancy fruits in . . . 258 
 
 " grape 254 
 
 " lemon 254 
 
 " mock peach . . . . 255 
 
 " nectarine 255 
 
 " orange 254 
 
 " peach 255 
 
 " peaches in 258 
 
 " pine-apple 255 
 
 " plum 255 
 
 " quince i75 
 
 " raspberry . . . 174, 255 
 " sauce No. i . . . . 129 
 ** " No. 2 . . . . 129 
 " " No. 3 .... 130 
 " strawberry . . 174, 255 
 
 Joint, to carve a 317 
 
 Junket No. i 228 
 
 •' No. 2 228 
 
 Koumiss, to make 
 
 So 
 
362 
 
 Index. 
 
 Lamb chops, to broil 
 " " to saut^ 
 
 " to boil a leg of 
 ** to bone a leg of 
 ** to fricassee . . 
 * * to prepare a leg of 
 " to roast . . . 
 ** to roast a leg of 
 " to select . . . 
 " to stew .... 
 Lemon cream pie . . 
 
 " ice 
 
 " jelly .... 
 " pie No. I . . 
 '' No. 2 . . 
 " sauce .... 
 " sherbet . . . 
 Lemonade No. i , 
 No. 2 , 
 No. 3 . 
 Lemons, to wash . 
 Lentils, pur6e of . 
 Lettuce salad . . . 
 " to prepare . 
 " to select . 
 Light omelet . . . 
 Lima beans, to can . . 
 
 Liquid sauce 
 
 " * * transparent 
 
 " yeast 
 
 " bread . . 
 Liver, to bake a . . 
 " to broil . . 
 " to prepare . 
 ** to saut6 . . 
 Lobster, bisque of . 
 " creamed . 
 " croquettes 
 cutlets . . 
 " deviled . . 
 
 150 
 69 
 
 309 
 89 
 
 23 
 52 
 52 
 12 
 88 
 223 
 261 
 
 254 
 222 
 223 
 
 245 
 260 
 160 
 160 
 160 
 30 
 
 125 
 
 272 
 
 26 
 
 16 
 
 314 
 167 
 
 245 
 244 
 192 
 192 
 
 55 
 38 
 24 
 
 155 
 121 
 284 
 
 143 
 298 
 290 
 
 Lobster salad . . . 
 
 " sauce No. i 
 '* No. 2 
 
 " scalloped . 
 Lyonnaise potato . . 
 
 27\ 
 
 133 
 
 133 
 289 
 
 297 
 
 Macaroni, creamed . . . 285 
 
 " soup 113 
 
 " to boil .... 72 
 
 Mace sugar 245 
 
 Marketing 7 
 
 Marmalade, gooseberry . 174 
 
 grape . . . . 174 
 
 " orange . . . 173 
 
 " peach .... 174 
 
 " pine-apple , . 173 
 
 " plum . ... 174 
 
 Marmalades 94 
 
 Mayonnaise dressing . . . 280 
 
 " cooked 281 
 
 Meat, how to select ... 10 
 
 " pie, English .... 226 
 
 " '* scrap 224 
 
 " sauces 126 
 
 Meats, to braise 89 
 
 Mixed fish salad .... 279 
 
 " fruit sherbet . . . 260 
 
 " salads 275 
 
 " soups 115 
 
 " soup stock No. I . 104 
 
 " soup stock No. 2 . 105 
 
 Mixing 179 
 
 Mock cream 242 
 
 " peach jelly .... 255 
 
 " terrapin 295 
 
 " " patties . . . 226 
 
 " turtle soup ... . 118 
 
 Muffins, corn, No. i . . . 210 
 
 " *' No. 2 . . . 210 
 
 " " fried ... 140 
 
Index. 
 
 363 
 
 Muffins, cracked wheat . . 207 j 
 
 " hominy 212 
 
 " oatmeal 207 
 
 rice 198 
 
 " wheat 207 
 
 " No. I . . . 198 
 
 " No. 2. . . 198 
 
 '• No. 3 . . . 198 
 
 Mush, blackberry .... 162 
 
 ** corn-meal . . . . 211 
 
 " fried 146 
 
 " to saute 14S 
 
 Mushroom patties .... 226 
 
 " sauce .... 128 
 
 " fresh . . 128 
 Mushrooms, stewed chicken 
 
 with 86 
 
 Mushrooms, to stew ... 91 
 
 Mutton broth No. i . . . 109 
 
 " No. 2 . . . 109 
 
 " chops, to broil , . 37 
 
 " hash 295 
 
 " to boil a leg of . , 69 
 
 " to fricassee ... 89 
 " to prepare a leg of 23 
 
 " to roast 51 
 
 ** to roast a leg of . 52 
 
 ** to select .... 12 
 
 " to stew 87 
 
 Nectarine jelly 255 
 
 New England apple pie . . 218 
 
 Noodle soup 114 
 
 Nun's puffs 142 
 
 Nut cake 250 
 
 Oatmeal gruel 157 
 
 " how to cook . . 77 
 
 " muffins .... 207 
 
 '* rolls 207 
 
 Oats, rolled, how to cook 77 
 
 Okra soup No. i 113 
 
 " " No. 2 114 
 
 " No. 3 115 
 
 " to stew 92 
 
 Omelet, creamy 312 
 
 ham 313 
 
 light 314 
 
 " orange 314 
 
 " souffle 314 
 
 *' with breakfast 
 
 bacon 314 
 
 Onion salad 273 
 
 Onions, fried 139 
 
 " to bake 61 
 
 " to saut6 147 
 
 " to select 16 
 
 " to stew 92 
 
 Oolong tea, to make ... 79 
 
 Orange cream 257 
 
 " pie .... 223 
 
 ice ........ 261 
 
 jelly 254 
 
 marmalade .... 173 
 
 omelet 314 
 
 pie 223 
 
 pudding 257 
 
 salad 270 
 
 sauce 244 
 
 sherbet 260 
 
 shortcake .... 203 
 
 Orangeade 160 
 
 Oranges, to wash .... 30 
 
 Oven broiling 43 
 
 "■ how to test temper- 
 ature of 49 
 
 Oven, temperature for bak- 
 ing bread 190 
 
 Oven, temperature for bak- 
 ing cake 48 
 
3^4 
 
 Index. 
 
 Oven, temperature for 
 
 roasting meats .... 
 
 Oven, temperature for 
 
 roasting poultry . . . 
 
 Oven, to broil a chicken in 
 
 '* to broil a fish in . 
 
 " to broil a quail in 
 
 " to broil a rabbit in 
 
 ' * to broil a squirrel in 
 
 Ox-tail soup 
 
 Oyster broth 
 
 fritters 
 
 patties 
 
 pie 
 
 sauce 
 
 Oysters, bisque of ... . 
 creamed, No. i . 
 No. 2 . 
 
 curried 
 
 fricasseed .... 
 
 fried 
 
 panned 
 
 raw 
 
 stewed 
 
 to broil 
 
 " on a griddle 
 
 to saute 
 
 to scallop, No. I . 
 
 " No. 2. 
 
 to steam .... 
 
 Pancakes, French . 
 Panned oysters . . 
 Parsley butter No. i 
 
 " No. 2 
 " sauce No. i 
 •* No. 2 
 Parsnips, purt^e of . 
 toboil . . 
 " to saut6 . 
 
 49 
 
 48 
 
 44 
 
 45 
 
 44 
 
 45 
 
 45 
 
 115 
 
 107 
 
 142 
 
 226 
 
 225 
 
 131 
 121 
 284 
 284 
 288 
 290 
 146 
 288 
 
 275 
 284 
 
 39 
 
 43 
 153 
 57 
 57 
 81 
 
 199 
 288 
 127 
 127 
 130 
 130 
 124 
 73 
 150 
 
 Parsnips, to select .... 15 
 
 " to stew .... 93 
 
 Paste, puff 213 
 
 Pastry, q%% 216 
 
 " potato 217 
 
 " suet 216 
 
 " and pie 213 
 
 Patties, creamed asparagus 226 
 ** " celery . . . 226 
 " chicken. . 226 
 ** " green peas 226 
 " " mock ter- 
 rapin 226 
 
 Patties, creamed mush- 
 room 226 
 
 Patties, creamed oyster . 226 
 sweet- 
 bread 226 
 
 Patty cases 215 
 
 Pea soup 113 
 
 Peach fritters 141 
 
 " jelly 255 
 
 " marmalade .... 174 
 
 " pie 221 
 
 '' tapioca pudding . . 238 
 
 Peaches in jelly 258 
 
 ** spiced 177 
 
 " to can 165 
 
 " to pare 28 
 
 " to preserve . . . 168 
 " to remove the 
 
 skins from 28 
 
 Peaches, to stew dried . . 99 
 
 " to stew fresh . . 97 
 
 Pears, to bake 63 
 
 " to can 166 
 
 " to preserve .... 169 
 
 " to stew 96 
 
 Peas, pur^e of 122 
 
 " to can 167 
 
Index. 
 
 365 
 
 Peas, to select 16 
 
 " to shell 25 
 
 " to stew 93 
 
 Peeled wheat flour bread 205 
 
 " gruel 158 
 
 Pickled cabbage . . . . 175 
 
 " cucumbers . . . 177 
 
 ** green tomatoes . 176 
 
 Pie, apple. No. i .... 217 
 
 " No. 2 . . . . 217 
 
 " No. 3 . . . . 217 
 
 baked chicken . . . 225 
 
 beefsteak 224 
 
 blackberry 219 
 
 cherry 220 
 
 crust, flaky 215 
 
 custard 222 
 
 damson 220 
 
 English apple, No. I . 218 
 
 *' No. 2 . 218 
 
 English meat .... 226 
 
 fish 225 
 
 gooseberry 220 
 
 grape 220 
 
 huckleberry 220 
 
 lemon. No. i . . . . 222 
 
 " No. 2 . . . . 223 
 
 lemon cream .... 223 
 
 New England apple . 218 
 
 orange 223 
 
 orange cream .... 223 
 
 oyster 225 
 
 peach 221 
 
 pie-plant 220 
 
 plum 220 
 
 potato 222 
 
 pumpkin 221 
 
 raspberry, No. i . . . 219 
 
 '* No. 2 . . . 219 
 
 scrap meat 224 
 
 Pie, squash 222 
 
 " strawberry, No. i . . 219 
 No. 2 . . 219 
 " sweet potato .... 221 
 * ' sweetbread and mush- 
 room 225 
 
 Pie, vanilla cream .... 223 
 
 Pie-plant pie 220 
 
 " to stew .... 96 
 
 Pine-apple cream .... 257 
 
 " fritters .... 141 
 
 " ice cream . . . 262 
 
 jelly 255 
 
 " marmalade . . 173 
 
 " salad 271 
 
 " sauce 245 
 
 " sherbet .... 261 
 
 *' shortcake . . . 204 
 
 Pine-appleade 161 
 
 Pine-apples, to can . . . 165 
 
 " to preserve . 169 
 
 Piquant sauce No i . . . 129 
 
 " " No. 2 . . . 129 
 
 Plain cream 241 
 
 " fritters 140 
 
 " soup 106 
 
 Plum jelly 106, 255 
 
 " marmalade .... 174 
 
 " pie 220 
 
 " pudding No. i . . . 240 
 
 " " No. 2 . . . 240 
 
 No. 3 . . . 241 
 
 Plums, to can 166 
 
 " to preserve .... 170 
 * ' to remove the skins 
 
 from 28 
 
 Plums, to stew 97 
 
 " to stew dried ... 99 
 
 Pop-overs 202 
 
 Pork chops, to broil ... 38 
 
366 
 
 Index. 
 
 Pork chops, to saut6 . 
 
 " fricasseed salt . 
 
 " to bone a leg of. 
 
 ' ' to roast fresh . . 
 
 a leg of. 
 
 " to select .... 
 
 Potato, browned hashed . 
 
 sliced. . 
 
 " cakes, browned . 
 
 " croquettes No. i . 
 
 " " No. 2 . 
 
 N0.3. 
 
 " hashed 
 
 " Lyonnaise .... 
 
 " pastry 
 
 " pie 
 
 ** puree of 
 
 " salad No. i . . . 
 '' No. 2 . . . 
 
 " souffle 
 
 " timbales of . . . . 
 
 " and fish cakes . . 
 
 Potatoes, browned sliced . 
 
 " creamed .... 
 
 " fried 
 
 " scalloped, No. i . 
 No. 2. 
 
 ** to bake 
 
 " to boil 
 
 " to prepare . . . 
 " to saut^ .... 
 ** to select .... 
 " to steam .... 
 
 " to stew 
 
 Poultry, stuffing for . . . 
 " to braise .... 
 
 " to select 
 
 Pound cake 
 
 Prairie chicken, fried . . . 
 to broil . 
 
 151 
 291 
 310 
 53 
 53 
 13 
 296 
 297 
 297 
 299 
 299 
 300 
 296 
 297 
 217 
 222 
 122 
 274 
 274 
 302 
 301 
 297 
 297 
 285 
 138 
 286 
 286 
 58 
 
 71 
 24 
 
 149 
 
 15 
 82 
 
 93 
 
 27 
 
 89 
 
 13 
 
 152 
 306 
 506 
 
 99 
 
 98 
 
 239 
 239 
 232 
 
 233 
 238 
 238 
 
 Prairie chicken, to saut^ . 
 
 Pressed corned beef . . . 
 veal 
 
 Prunellas, to stew 
 
 Prunes, to stew dried . . . 
 
 Pudding, baked apple, No, 
 I 
 
 Pudding, baked apple. No. 
 2 
 
 Pudding, baked corn-meal, 
 No. I 
 
 Pudding, baked corn-meal. 
 No. 2 
 
 Pudding, baked sago . . . 
 tapioco . 
 
 Pudding, banana 257 
 
 ' ' bread and butter, 
 No. I 237 
 
 Pudding, bread and butter, 
 
 No. 2 238 
 
 Pudding, fig 240 
 
 " French 234 
 
 " fruit and bread . 238 
 " " and rice . . 
 
 " huckleberry . . 
 
 " orange 
 
 " plum, No. I . . 
 " No. 2 . . 
 " No. 3 . . 
 " sauces . . . 227, 241 
 
 " snow 257 
 
 " souffle 233 
 
 " steamed. No. i . 235 
 
 " " No. 2 . 235 
 
 No. 3. 235 
 
 No. 4. 235 
 
 apple. 
 
 238 
 238 
 
 257 
 240 
 240 
 241 
 
 249 No. I 236 
 
 145 Pudding, steamed apple, 
 39 No. 2 236 
 
Index. 
 
 367 
 
 Pudding, steamed batter . 
 black- 
 berry 
 
 Pudding, steamed cherry . 
 " ♦* fruit., 
 huckle- 
 berry 
 
 Pudding, suet 
 
 Puddings 
 
 Puffs, nun's 
 
 Pumpkin pie 
 
 Pur^e of asparagus .... 
 beans No. i . . . 
 " No. 2. . . 
 " No. 3. . . 
 
 beets 
 
 carrots 
 
 chestnuts .... 
 
 lentils 
 
 parsnips .... 
 
 peas 
 
 potato 
 
 salsify 
 
 sorrel 
 
 spinach 
 
 tomato No. i . . 
 
 " No. 2 . . 
 
 " No. 3 . . 
 
 turnip 
 
 Purees 
 
 Quail, fried .... 
 " roast , . . . , 
 to broil . . . . 
 ** to saut4 . . . 
 Queen Ann rolls . . . 
 Quince jelly .... 
 Quinces, to can . . 
 " to preserve 
 
 233 
 
 237 
 236 
 236 
 
 238 
 
 235 
 227 
 142 
 221 
 123 
 123 
 123 
 123 
 124 
 124 
 124 
 
 125 
 124 
 122 
 122 
 124 
 
 125 
 124 
 122 
 122 
 122 
 124 
 121 
 
 145 
 55 
 39 
 152 
 195 
 175 
 165 
 169 
 
 Rabbit, to saut6 152 
 
 " to stew 88 
 
 Raisin sauce 245 
 
 Raisins, to stew 99 
 
 Rarebit, Welsh, No. i . . 303 
 
 ** No. 2 . . 303 
 
 " No. 3. . 304 
 
 Raspberries, to preserve . 172 
 
 Raspberry jam 172 
 
 jelly . . . 174, 255 
 
 " pie No. I . . . 219 
 
 " No. 2. . . 219 
 
 " shortcake. . . 203 
 
 Rice, creamed 234 
 
 " croquettes No. i . . 143 
 
 No. 2 . . 300 
 
 " curried 286 
 
 " gruel 157 
 
 " muffins 198 
 
 " pudding 64 
 
 " soup 113 
 
 " timbales of 301 
 
 " to boil 74 
 
 " to steam 82 
 
 " to wash 30 
 
 Roast, how to carve a . . 317 
 
 " turkey 53 
 
 Roasting 46 
 
 " meats, tempera- 
 ture of oven for, 47, 48, 50 
 
 Roasting poultry' 47 
 
 Rolled barley, how to 
 
 cook 77 
 
 Rolled oats, how to cook . 77 
 '* wheat blanc-mange 229 
 
 " " gruel. . . . 157 
 " '* how to cook 77 
 
 Rolls, cinnamon 196 
 
 ' ' cracked wheat . . . 207 
 
 " French, No. i . . . 193 
 
368 
 
 Index. 
 
 Rolls, French, No. 2 . 
 
 " No. 3 . 
 
 ** hominy .... 
 
 " imperial .... 
 
 " oatmeal .... 
 
 " Queen Ann . . 
 
 Roly-pol}'', apple . . . 
 
 fruit . . . 
 
 " to steam a 
 
 Russe, Charlotte, No. i 
 
 No. 2 
 
 Sago, creamed .... 
 " custard, baked. 
 " pudding, baked 
 Salad, apple. No. i . 
 " No. 2 . . 
 " No. 3 . . 
 *' asparagus . . . 
 " banana, No. i . 
 No. 2 . 
 " No. 3 . 
 " beet. No. i . . 
 " No. 2 . . 
 " " and potato 
 
 '^ cabbage . . . 
 " celery .... 
 ** , chicken. No. i 
 No. 2. 
 No. 3. 
 
 with lettuce 278 
 
 193 
 194 
 212 
 
 193 
 
 207 
 
 195 
 237 
 237 
 83 
 255 
 256 
 
 234 
 232 
 238 
 272 
 272 
 272 
 
 275 
 
 271 
 271 
 271 
 274 
 
 275 
 275 
 273 
 273 
 277 
 277 
 277 
 
 " cucumber .... 
 
 and fish 
 " currant ..... 
 " dressing, cooked 
 " " cream , . . 
 
 " French, No. 
 
 I 
 
 Salad dressing, French, 
 No. 2 
 
 273 
 279 
 270 
 28 1 
 281 
 
 2S0 
 
 280 
 
 Salad dressing, m a y o n - 
 
 naise 280 
 
 Salad dressings 280 
 
 " *' season- 
 ing for. No. I . . . . 282 
 Salad dressings, season- 
 
 ing for, No. 2 282 
 
 Salad dressings, season- 
 
 ing for. No. 3 . . . . 282 
 
 Salad, ^^%^ No. i . . . . 279 
 
 " No. 2 279 
 
 " fish 276 
 
 " lettuce 272 
 
 " lobster 276 
 
 " mixed fish .... 279 
 
 '* onion 273 
 
 " orange 270 
 
 " oyster 275 
 
 " pine-apple .... 271 
 
 " potato, No. I . . . 274 
 
 " No. 2 ... 274 
 
 " salmon 276 
 
 *' shrimp 276 
 
 " spinach 275 
 
 " strawberry .... 270 
 
 " sweetbread, No. I . 278 
 
 No. 2. 278 
 
 " tomato, No. i . . . 273 
 
 No. 2 . . . 274 
 
 "■ " and fish . . 279 
 
 Salad-making 268 
 
 Salads, fruit 269 
 
 *' mixed 275 
 
 " vegetable .... 272 
 
 Salisbury steak, to saut^ . 151 
 
 Salmon, creamed 285 
 
 " salad 276 
 
 " scalloped .... 289 
 
 Salsify broth 107 
 
 " cream of 116 
 
Index. 
 
 369 
 
 Salsify, pur6e of . 
 
 " sauce . . . 
 
 " soup . . . 
 
 '* stock. , . 
 
 " to prepare 
 
 " to saut6 . 
 
 " to select , 
 
 " to stew. . 
 Salt codfish, scalloped 
 
 " pork, fricasseed 
 Sauce, anchovy . . 
 
 " banana . . . 
 
 " bread, No. i 
 No. 2 
 
 " brown, No. i 
 No. 2 
 No. 3 
 
 ** caper, No. i 
 No. 2 
 
 " caramel . . 
 
 " celery . . . 
 
 " cherry . . . 
 
 ^ZZ • ■ - • 
 
 fish ... . 
 
 ** foamy, No. i 
 
 No. 2 
 
 ** fresh mushroom 
 
 ** HoUandaise, No 
 
 jelly, No. I . 
 
 " No. 2 . 
 
 " N^o. 3. 
 lemon . . . 
 liquid . . . 
 lobster. No. i 
 No. 2 
 mushroom . . 
 orange. . . . 
 oyster . . . . 
 parsley, No. i 
 
 124 
 
 131 
 113 
 103 
 24 
 150 
 
 15 
 92 
 287 
 291 
 133 
 245 
 132 
 132 
 128 
 128 
 129 
 130 
 130 
 243 
 131 
 245 
 128 
 130 
 
 244 
 244 
 128 
 133 
 
 No. 2 133 
 . 129 
 
 129 
 130 
 
 245 
 245 
 133 
 133 
 128 
 244 
 
 131 
 130 
 
 Sauce, parsley. No. 2 
 " pine-apple . . 
 " piquant, No. i 
 No. 2 
 " raisin .... 
 " salsify .... 
 " shrimp .... 
 " strawberry . . 
 ** tartare .... 
 *' tomato, No. i. 
 No. 2. 
 " No. 3. 
 No. 4. 
 " No. 5. 
 " transparent liquid 
 " white. No. i 
 " No. 2 
 " No. 3 
 " No. 4 
 Sauces, meat . . . 
 white . . . 
 Sausage, to saut6 . 
 
 Sautding 
 
 Scalloped eggs No. i . 
 
 " No. 2 . 
 
 fish No. I . . 
 
 '* No. 2 . . 
 
 " fresh fish an 
 
 oysters 
 
 Scalloped lobster . . . 
 
 " oysters No. i 
 
 " No. 2 
 
 " potatoes No. i 
 
 " No. 2 
 
 " salmon . . 
 
 " salt codfish 
 
 " tomatoes . 
 
 Scollops, to saut6 . . 
 
 Scrambled eggs No. i 
 
 •• No. 2 
 
 130 
 
 245 
 129 
 129 
 245 
 131 
 132 
 
 245 
 133 
 134 
 134 
 134 
 134 
 135 
 244 
 132 
 132 
 132 
 132 
 126 
 131 
 154 
 146 
 288 
 288 
 287 
 287 
 
 288 
 
 289 
 
 57 
 
 57 
 
 286 
 
 286 
 
 289 
 
 287 
 
 60 
 
 152 
 312 
 
 312 
 
370 
 
 Index. 
 
 Scrapple 296 
 
 " to saut6 . . . . 148 
 Sea moss blanc-mange . . 228 
 
 *' gruel 158 
 
 Seasoning 263 
 
 " for salad dress- 
 ings No. I 282 
 
 Seasoning for salad dress- 
 ings No. 2 282 
 
 Seasoning for salad dress- 
 ings No. 3 282 
 
 Seedless raisins, to stew . 99 
 Serving and garnishing . 315 
 
 Shells 161 
 
 " tart 224 
 
 Sherbet, lemon 260 
 
 " mixed fruit . . . 260 
 
 ** orange 260 
 
 " pine-apple . . . 261 
 
 " strawberry . . . 260 
 
 Shirred eggs No. i ... 312 
 
 ** " No. 2 . . . 312 
 
 Shortcake, banana .... 203 
 
 ** orange .... 203 
 
 " pine-apple . . 204 
 
 " raspberry . . . 203 
 
 " strawberry . . 203 
 
 Shrimp croquettes .... 144 
 
 " salad 276 
 
 " sauce 132 
 
 Shrimps, creamed .... 284 
 Sick-room cookery ... 156 
 Small puddings, to steam 83 
 
 Smear-case 228 
 
 Snow pudding 257 
 
 Soft ginger cake 250 
 
 Sorrel, pur^e of 125 
 
 Souffle, cheese, No. i . . 302 
 " " No. 2 . . 302 
 " chicken 302 
 
 Souffle, omelet 314 
 
 " potato 302 
 
 " pudding 233 
 
 Soup, barley 113 
 
 " brown. No. i . . . 117 
 
 " No. 2 . . . 118 
 
 " No. 3 . . . 118 
 
 " clear 109 
 
 " " with curry . . no 
 
 ** " with dainty 
 
 dumplings no 
 
 Soup, clear, with fancy 
 
 vegetables no 
 
 Soup, clear, with mixed 
 
 flavoring no 
 
 Soup, clear, with poached 
 
 eggs no 
 
 Soup, clear, with sliced 
 
 lemon no 
 
 Soup, clear, with tapioca . no 
 
 " corn 113 
 
 ** green turtle . . . . 119 
 
 " gumbo 118 
 
 *' hominy 113 
 
 ** macaroni 113 
 
 " mixed 115 
 
 ** mock turtle .... 118 
 
 " noodle 114 
 
 " okra, No. i . . . . 114 
 
 " No. 2 ... . n4 
 
 " No. 3 ... . ns 
 
 " ox-tail 115 
 
 " pea 113 
 
 " plain 106 
 
 "■ rice 113 
 
 " salsify 113 
 
 " tomato. No. i . . . 113 
 
 " " No. 2 . . . 117 
 
 ** transparent tomato, 
 
 No. I 117 
 
Index. 
 
 371 
 
 Soup, transparent tomato, 
 
 No. 2 
 
 Soup, vegetable, No. i 
 No. 2 
 No. 3 
 No. 4 
 Soup-bones, to prepare 
 Soup-making . . . 
 Spaghetti, creamed 
 Spiced beef, to boil 
 *' damsons . . 
 " peaches . . 
 Spinach, pur^e of . 
 salad . . . 
 to boil . . 
 " to prepare 
 " to select . 
 Sponge cake . . . 
 Squash pie .... 
 
 " summer, to stew 
 " to bake, No. i 
 " " No. 2 
 " to prepare . . 
 " to saut4 . . . 
 " to select . . 
 *' to steam . . 
 ** winter, to stew 
 Squirrel, to saut^ . . 
 " to stew . . 
 Steak, Hamburg . . 
 " Salisbury . . 
 to broil . . . 
 " to prepare . . 
 Steamed apple pudding 
 
 No. I 
 
 Steamed apple pudding 
 
 No. 2 
 
 Steamed batter pudding . 
 " blackberry pud- 
 ding 
 
 . 117 
 
 • 114 
 . 114 
 . 114 
 . 114 
 
 22 
 
 . 100 
 
 . 285 
 
 . 70 
 
 . 177 
 
 . 177 
 
 . 124 
 
 • 275 
 
 • 73 
 
 • 25 
 . 16 
 . 248 
 . 222 
 
 • 94 
 61 
 
 . 61 
 
 . 24 
 
 . 147 
 
 . 15 
 
 . 82 
 
 • 93 
 . 152 
 
 . 88 
 
 . 151 
 
 • 151 
 36, 42 
 
 • 23 
 
 236 
 
 236 
 233 
 
 237 
 
 Steamed cherry pudding . 236 
 " fruit pudding . . 236 
 " huckleberry pud- 
 ding 237 
 
 Steamed pudding No. i . 235 
 
 No. 2 . 235 
 
 " No. 3 . 235 
 
 " No. 4 . 235 
 
 Steaming 81 
 
 Stewed chicken with mush- 
 rooms 86 
 
 Stewed chicken with 
 
 truffles 86 
 
 Stewed giblets with mush- 
 rooms 292 
 
 Stewing 84 
 
 Stock, asparagus .... 103 
 
 beef 103 
 
 celery 103 
 
 chicken 104 
 
 compound .... 104 
 
 mixed, No. i . . . 104 
 
 " No. 2 . . . 105 
 
 mutton 103 
 
 salsify 103 
 
 simple vegetable . 102 
 
 veal 103 
 
 vegetable .... 102 
 Strawberries, to can ... 164 
 " to hull ... 29 
 
 " to preserve, 
 
 No. I 170 
 
 Strawberries, to preserve, 
 
 No. 2 171 
 
 Strawberries, to preserve, 
 
 No. 3 171 
 
 Strawberry cream .... 258 
 
 *' ice 261 
 
 " ice cream . . 262 
 ** jam 172 
 
372 
 
 Index. 
 
 Strawberry jelly . . . 174, 255 
 " pie No. I . . . 219 
 
 ** " No. 2 . . . 219 
 
 ** salad .... 270 
 
 " sauce .... 245 
 
 " sherbet . . . 260 
 
 " shortcake . . 203 
 
 Strawberryade 160 
 
 Straws, cheese, No. i . . 304 
 
 No. 2 . . 304 
 
 String beans, to boil ... 72 
 
 *' " to can ... 167 
 
 ** " to prepare . 25 
 
 Strudels, apple 218 
 
 Stuffing for fish 28 
 
 " for poultry ... 27 
 
 " for veal 27 
 
 Suet pastry 216 
 
 " pudding ...... 235 
 
 Sugar, mace 245 
 
 Sultana raisins, to stew . 99 
 
 Sunshine cake 248 
 
 Sweet potato pie 221 
 
 Sweet potatoes, to bake . 59 
 ** " to boil . 73 
 " " to saut6 . 149 
 " ** to steam 82 
 Sweetbread croquettes . 145 
 *' fritters .... 142 
 " patties .... 226 
 " salad No. i . 278 
 '* No. 2 . 278 
 '* and mush- 
 room pie 225 
 
 12 
 284 
 
 38 
 24 
 
 55 
 243 
 
 Sweetbreads 
 
 creamed . 
 to broil . . 
 to prepare 
 to roast . . 
 
 Syrup 
 
 Tapioca, creamed .... 234 
 ** custard, baked . 232 
 " pudding, baked 238 
 
 Tart, apple 224 
 
 " cranberry 224 
 
 " shells 224 
 
 Tartare sauce 133 
 
 Tea, beef, No. i 108 
 
 " No. 2 loS 
 
 " to make black ... 79 
 Ceylon. . . 79 
 English 
 
 breakfast 79 
 
 Tea, to make green ... 79 
 ** " oolong . . 79 
 
 " toast 158 
 
 Terrapin, mock 295 
 
 " veal 294 
 
 Timbales 300 
 
 " of potato .... 301 
 
 " of rice 301 
 
 To bake almonds .... 63 
 apples No. i . . 62 
 No. 2 . . 62 
 
 bananas 63 
 
 beans 62 
 
 bread .... 48, 190 
 
 cake 48 
 
 corn No. i . . . 61 
 " No. 2 . . . 61 
 
 custards 64 
 
 a fish 56 
 
 a heart and liver . 55 
 
 onions 61 
 
 63 
 58 
 64 
 61 
 61 
 59 
 
 pears 
 
 potatoes . . . 
 rice pudding . . 
 squash No. i . 
 No. 2 . 
 sweet potatoes 
 
Index. 
 
 373 
 
 To bake tomatoes . 
 " tongue . . 
 
 To boil asparagus . 
 beets . . . 
 cabbage . . 
 carrots . . 
 cauliflower 
 a chicken . 
 corn . . . 
 corned beef 
 an egg . . . 
 a fish . . . 
 a fowl . . . 
 a ham . . . 
 a leg of lamb 
 macaroni 
 mutton . , 
 parsnips . . 
 potatoes . , 
 rice ... 
 
 spiced beef 
 spinach . . 
 string beans 
 sweet potatoes 
 turkey . . , 
 turnips . , 
 vegetables 
 To bone a fish . . . 
 " a fowl . , 
 * ' a leg of lamb 
 pork 
 veal 
 ' * a turkey . . . 
 To braise a calf's heart 
 " meats . 
 " poultry . 
 To broil chicken . . 
 
 in t 
 
 oven . . . 
 To broil chops 
 
 70: 
 
 60 
 56 
 72 
 
 73 
 73 
 73 
 72 
 68 
 72 
 70 
 
 , 311 
 69 
 
 69 
 69 
 69 
 
 72 
 69 
 
 73 
 71 
 
 74 
 70 
 
 73 
 72 
 
 73 
 69 
 
 73 
 71 
 22 
 
 309 
 309 
 310 
 
 309 
 
 307 
 
 90 
 
 89 
 89 
 38 
 
 44 
 37 
 
 39 
 40 
 38 
 39 
 
 43 
 39 
 39 
 44 
 45 
 45 
 
 To broil chops on a grid- 
 dle 42 
 
 To broil a fish 39 
 
 " in the oven 45 
 
 grouse 
 
 ham 
 
 liver 
 
 oysters 
 
 ** on a grid- 
 dle 
 
 To broil prairie chicken . 
 
 quail 
 
 '* in the oven, 
 a rabbit .... 
 a squirrel .... 
 
 steak 36 
 
 " on a griddle 42 
 
 sweetbreads . . 38 
 
 tomatoes .... 40 
 
 tripe 38 
 
 To can asparagus .... 167 
 
 cherries No. i . . 166 
 
 No. 2 . . 166 
 
 corn 167 
 
 lima beans .... 167 
 
 peaches 165 
 
 pears 166 
 
 peas 167 
 
 pine-apples .... 165 
 
 plums 166 
 
 quinces 165 
 
 strawberries ... 164 
 
 string beans . . . 167 
 
 tomatoes No. i . . 168 
 
 No. 2. . 168 
 
 No. 3. . 168 
 
 To carve a joint 317 
 
 " a roast 317 
 
 " a turkey .... 316 
 
 To cook cereals 75 
 
374 
 
 Index. 
 
 80. 
 
 To cook coarse hominy 
 
 " " oatmeal 
 
 " cracked wheat 
 
 " dried fruits . 
 
 " farina . . . 
 
 ** fine hominy . 
 
 " fresh fruits . 
 
 " rolled barley 
 oats . 
 wheat 
 To fricassee a chicken 
 lamb . 
 
 ** mutton 
 
 ** veal . . 
 
 To make black tea . 
 
 " Ceylon tea 
 
 " chocolate . 
 
 " cider apple sauce 
 
 " cocoa . . . 
 
 '* " No. I 
 
 '' No. 2 
 *' No. 3 
 
 " coffee No i 
 
 No. 2 
 
 " No. 3 
 
 '' cranberry jelly . 
 
 " English break- 
 fast tea 
 
 To make green tea .... 
 
 " hygienic coffee . 
 
 ** koumiss .... 
 To preserve cherries . . . 
 
 " peaches . . . 
 
 " pears .... 
 
 " pine-apples . 
 
 " plums . . . 
 
 " quinces . . . 
 
 " raspberries . 
 
 " strawberries 
 
 77 
 77 
 77 
 97 
 77 
 77 
 94 
 77 
 77 
 77 
 89 
 89 
 89 
 89 
 79 
 79 
 161 
 
 97 
 
 80 
 
 161 
 
 161 
 
 161 
 
 77 
 78 
 78 
 96 
 
 79 
 
 79 
 
 79 
 
 80 
 
 170 
 
 168 
 
 169 
 
 169 
 
 170 
 
 169 
 
 172 
 
 No. I 170 
 
 To 
 
 To 
 
 To 
 
 To 
 
 To 
 
 preserve strawberries 
 
 No. 2 171 
 
 preserve strawberries 
 
 No. 3 171 
 
 roast beef 49 
 
 " chicken 54 
 
 " fresh pork ... 53 
 
 " lamb 52 
 
 " a leg of lamb or 
 
 mutton 52 
 
 roast mutton 51 
 
 quails 55 
 
 sweetbreads ... 55 
 
 turkey 54 
 
 veal 52 
 
 wild duck .... 55 
 
 saut^ apples 149 
 
 bananas .... 150 
 
 beefsteek . . . . 151 
 
 breakfast bacon 148 
 
 calf's brains . . 152 
 
 calf's liver . . . 155 
 
 chicken .... 151 
 
 corn oysters . . 153 
 
 egg-plant ... 147 
 
 eggs 311 
 
 fish 152 
 
 fish cakes . . , 154 
 
 grouse 152 
 
 ham 148 
 
 Hamburg steak 151 
 
 hash 154 
 
 hominy 153 
 
 lamb chops . . . 150 
 
 liver 155 
 
 mush 148 
 
 onions 147 
 
 oysters 153 
 
 parsnips .... 150 
 
 pork chops . . . 151 
 
Index. 
 
 375 
 
 To saut^ potatoes .... 
 
 " prairie chicken . 
 
 quail 
 
 rabbit 
 
 *' Salisbury steak . 
 
 " salsify 
 
 " sausage .... 
 
 " scollops .... 
 
 " scrapple .... 
 
 " soft-shell crabs . 
 
 " squash 
 
 " squirrel .... 
 
 " sweet potatoes , 
 
 " tomatoes .... 
 
 " tough beefsteak 
 
 " veal chops . . . 
 To steam a batter pudding 
 
 " clams 
 
 " corn 
 
 eggs 
 
 fish 
 
 " oysters .... 
 
 " potatoes .... 
 
 " rice 
 
 '* a roly-poly . . . 
 
 " small puddings 
 
 " squash .... 
 
 " sweet potatoes . 
 
 To stew apples 
 
 " asparagus peas . 
 
 '• beef 
 
 " beets 
 
 " cabbage .... 
 
 " carrots 
 
 ** celery 
 
 ** chicken 
 
 ** corn 
 
 " cranberries No. i 
 " •• No. 2 
 
 *' cucumbers . . . 
 
 149 
 152 
 152 
 152 
 151 
 150 
 154 
 152 
 148 
 
 152 
 147 
 
 152 
 
 149 
 148 
 
 151 
 150 
 
 83 
 82 
 
 83 
 83 
 81 
 81 
 82 
 82 
 83 
 83 
 82 
 82 
 
 95 
 92 
 86 
 90 
 92 
 
 91 
 92 
 
 84 
 
 91 
 96 
 96 
 91 
 
 To stew dried apples 
 " " apricots 
 
 99 
 98 
 
 91 
 99 
 99 
 99 
 99 
 96 
 90 
 88 
 91 
 
 " beans . . 
 
 " peaches , 
 
 " plums . . 
 
 " prunellas 
 
 ** prunes . 
 green gooseberries 
 " shelled beans 
 
 Iamb 
 
 mushrooms . . . 
 
 mutton 87 
 
 okra 92 
 
 onions 92 
 
 oysters 284 
 
 parsnips .... 93 
 
 peaches 97 
 
 pears 96 
 
 peas 93 
 
 pie-plant .... 96 
 
 plums 97 
 
 potatoes .... 93 
 
 rabbit 88 
 
 raisins 99 
 
 salsify 92 
 
 squirrel 88 
 
 99 
 94 
 
 93 
 86 
 90 
 93 
 309 
 310 
 
 309 
 307 
 
 *' sultana raisins 
 " summer squash 
 " tomatoes . . , 
 
 " veal 
 
 " vegetables . . 
 
 " winter squash . 
 
 To stuff a leg of lamb . 
 
 " *' pork . 
 
 " '* veal . 
 
 ** a turkey . . . 
 
 To toast bread 40 
 
 Toast, beefsteak 162 
 
 " broth 162 
 
 " creamed 285 
 
376 
 
 Index. 
 
 Toast, curried ...... 286 
 
 " dipped 286 
 
 " French 304 
 
 " fruit 162 
 
 " oyster 162 
 
 *' tea 158 
 
 " tropical 305 
 
 Tomato, 
 
 bisque of ... . 
 
 120 
 
 (( 
 
 pur^e of, No, i . 
 
 122 
 
 (( 
 
 " No. 2 . 
 
 122 
 
 <( 
 
 " No. 3 . 
 
 122 
 
 (( 
 
 salad No. i . . 
 
 273 
 
 <( 
 
 •' No. 2 . . 
 
 274 
 
 <( 
 
 sauce No. i . . 
 
 134 
 
 (( 
 
 N0.2 . . 
 
 134 
 
 (( 
 
 " N0.3. . 
 
 134 
 
 (( 
 
 No. 4. . 
 
 134 
 
 <( 
 
 '' No. 5. . 
 
 135 
 
 (( 
 
 soup No. I. . . 
 
 113 
 
 <( 
 
 *' No. 2 . . 
 
 117 
 
 (( 
 
 '* transpar- 
 
 
 ent. 
 
 No. I 
 
 117 
 
 Tomato 
 
 soup, transparent. 
 
 
 No. 
 
 2 
 
 117 
 
 Tomato and fish salad . . 
 
 279 
 
 Tomatoes, to bake .... 
 
 60 
 
 (( 
 
 to broil .... 
 
 40 
 
 (( 
 
 to can, No. i . 
 
 168 
 
 (( 
 
 No. 2 . 
 
 168 
 
 (( 
 
 No. 3 . 
 
 168 
 
 << 
 
 to prepare . . 
 
 26 
 
 (( 
 
 to saut6 . . . 
 
 148 
 
 (< 
 
 to scallop . . . 
 
 60 
 
 (< 
 
 to select . . . 
 
 16 
 
 <( 
 
 to stew .... 
 
 93 
 
 Tongue 
 
 to bake a . . . . 
 
 56 
 
 (( 
 
 to prepare a dried 
 
 23 
 
 Transparent liquid sauce . 
 
 244 
 
 (( 
 
 tomato soup 
 
 
 No, 
 
 I 
 
 117 
 
 Transparent tomato soup 
 
 No. 2 117 
 
 Tripe, to broil 38 
 
 Tropical toast 305 
 
 Truffles, stewed chicken 
 
 with 86 
 
 Turbans, fish 299 
 
 Turkey hash 293 
 
 roast 53 
 
 " to boil a 69 
 
 " to bone a .... 307 
 
 " to carve a . . . . 316 
 
 " to roast a . . . . 54 
 
 " and oyster hash. . 293 
 
 Turnips, pur6e of . . . . 124 
 
 " to boil 73 
 
 " to prepare .... 24 
 
 " to select 15 
 
 Vanilla cream pie .... 223 
 
 Veal broth 109 
 
 chops, fried .... 146 
 
 cream of 117 
 
 croquettes 145 
 
 hash 294 
 
 pressed 306 
 
 stuffing for 27 
 
 terrapin 294 
 
 to bone a leg of . . . 309 
 
 to fricassee 89 
 
 to roast 52 
 
 to saut^ 150 
 
 to select 12 
 
 to stew 86 
 
 Vegetable soup No. i . . 114 
 
 " No. 2 . . 114 
 
 " No. 3 . . 114 
 
 ** No. 4 . . 114 
 
 '* " stock . . 102 
 
 '* soups in 
 
Index. 
 
 377 
 
 Vegetables, fancy . . . . iii 
 
 " macedoine . . iii 
 
 *' to boil .... 71 
 
 " to select ... 15 
 
 " to stew ... 90 
 
 Vermicelli, creamed . . . 285 
 
 Vienna bread. . . . 189, 191 
 
 Vol-au-vents .... 215, 284 
 
 Wafers, ginger 250 
 
 Waffles No. i 201 
 
 " No. 2 201 
 
 " No. 3 201 
 
 Water, hard 66 
 
 soft 66 
 
 Welsh rarebit No. i . . . 303 
 
 No. 2 . . . 303 
 
 " No. 3 . . . 304 
 
 Wetting 179 
 
 Wheat griddle cakes No. i 199 
 Wheat griddle cakes No. 2 199 
 Wheat griddle cakes No. 3 199 
 
 Wheat muffins No. i 
 No. 2 
 No. 3 
 
 Whey 
 
 Whipped cream . . . 
 
 Whips, ^zz 
 
 '* " with syrup 
 
 White flour gruel. . . 
 
 " sauce No. i . . 
 
 '' No. 2. . 
 
 " No. 3.. 
 
 *' No. 4.. 
 
 " sauces 
 
 " soups .... 
 Whole wheat flour bread 
 " gruel 
 Wild duck, to roast. . . 
 Winter squash, to stew . 
 
 Yeast, compressed . . . 
 '* liquid 
 
 198 
 198 
 198 
 
 228 
 241 
 
 159 
 160 
 
 157 
 132 
 132 
 132 
 132 
 131 
 115 
 205 
 
 158 
 55 
 93 
 
 186 
 192 
 proper quantity of . 191 
 
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