FRANZ LF.COUVRFTTR IN APRIL, 1851. Copied from Oil-painting. From East Prussia to the Golden Gate BY Frank Lecouvreur LETTERS AND DIARY OF THE CALIFORNIA PIONEER, EDITED IN MEMORY OF HER NOBLE HUSBAND, BY MRS. JOSEPHINE ROSANA LECOUVREUR TRANSLATED AND COMPILED BY JULIUS C. BEHNKE Professor of Modern Languages, Occidental College, Los Angeles, Cal. NEW YORK AND LOS ANGELES, CAL. ANGELINA ROOK CONCERN GENERAL AGENCY FOR EUROPE LEIPZIG BUCHHANDLUNG GuSTAV FoCK G. m. 1). H. 1906 LIBKA3Y of CONGRESS Two Gooies R( FF* 11 1907 Copyrlghl Entry ®zt. I, rqod, GLASS a, XXc, No, COrY b. I Copyright, 1906, BY MRS. JOSEPHINE ROSANA LECOUVREUR MANUFACTURED BY G. T. ROWLAND 258-60 FIFTH AVE. NEW YORK TO THE READER. Many a book seems worth while reading, Though you give it but one call. Mark! Unless it bears re-reading It should not be read at all. Lives of self-made men are ever Full of healthy food for minds Of ambitious, honest toilers: "He who seeks is he who finds!" May this book go forth and cheer you, And when courage ebbs away, Take the noble author's motto: "Try again! Be firm and stay." J. C. B. L ^ A '' May, 1906. CONTEXTS PAGE Preface xi LETTER I Voyage from Konigsberg to Berlin in 1851. — Berlin: Its custom- house, Principal Thoroughfares and Passing Impressions 15 LETTER II (Dated Hamburg, 1851). — The Author's Early Activity. — March Rev- olution Described by Prince Frederic William, later Emperor of Germany. — Berlin: More Impressions. — Visit to the Captain of the March Revolution in 1848. — Friedrichshain, the Resting-place of Fallen Revolutionists. — Voyage from Berlin to Hamburg. — Ham- burg and the Hamburg People. — The Harbor. — The Exchange. — Suburb St. Tauli. — Stintfang. — Churches. — General Architecture. — City Walls. — The Alster and the Jungfernstieg. — Extract from an Interesting San Francisco Letter 29 LETTER III The "Victoria." — Shipping of Emigrants. — Embarking of German Soldiers for Brazil. — The "Hamburger Berg." — Altona. — The Celebrated Graves at Ottensen. — Rainville. — Places of Amusement. — Blankenese, the Gate-keeper of the Elbe. — Tenement Fires. — Primitive Fire Department. — The Conflagration of 1842 and the Hero of St. Nicolas. — Annual Floods. — Sewer System.' — A Ham- burg Funeral Procession. — Humorous Criticism. — The "Citizens' Guard" of Precious Memory. — •Hamburg Legends. — The Visit of the Wandering Jew in 1547. — Cosmopolitan Life. — Gomez de Mier. — The "Glass Arcades." 50 LETTER IV On Board of Bark "Victoria," off Hamburg. — First Impressions of new Surroundings. — Slow Progress. — Pentecost. — Life on Board 73 LETTER V The Ocean Voyage. — First Effects upon Steerage Passengers. — Bill of Fare. — The British Coast. — The Channel. — Bay of Biscaya. — Gibraltar. — Madeira. — Flying Fish. — Whales — Northern Tropic Circle. — Between Two Heavens. — The Calm. — Thunderstorm on V vi CONTENTS PAGE Mid-ocean. — Ships that Passed. — The "Neptune" Farce. — An Ocean Burial. — The Brazilian Coast. — Meditations of a Passen- ger. — Cape-doves and Other Birds. — Birth of a Boy. — Heavy Storms Around the Cape follow the Approach of "Mother Carey's Chickens." — The Coast of Fireland. — Picturesque Views. — Bay of Good Success. — Marvelous Sceneries. — Six Sketches. — Strait Le Maire. — Narrow Escape. — Shipwreck. — Cape Deceit. — Hermit Is- lands. — Ramirez Islands. — The Archipelago of the South Sea. — Scant Meals. — Another Disappointment. — Cape San Carlos. — Fort Corral. — Chile. — Valdivia. — A Tramp through Virgin Forests. — Bare-footed Militia. — Fortifications. — Indians. — Volcanos 81 LETTER VI The Valley of Paradise. — People and Politics. — On Board the "Au- rora." — Better Bill of Fare. — A Leak. — Undesirable Ship-mates. — Loads of Gunpowder. — Trade Winds. — Long Calms. — Air-castles. — Minute Nautical Record 154 LETTER VII The Farallones Cliffs. — Punta Clara. — San Francisco. — American Soil! An American City. — Everything for a "Purpose." — Strange Archi- tectural Mixtures. — Cosmopolitan People.' — Road Building. — Sand Hills. — Progress Everywhere. — Wharf Building. — Water-front Scenes. — Strange Bridge-building. — Possibilities. — Shipping. — The People of the Western Mertopolis. — Erroneous Impressions Abroad. — The Work of the Vigilance Committee in 1851. — First Hanging. — Municipal Inactivity. — The Rope Route. — Exile of For- eign Criminals. — Struggles with Legal Authorities.' — Kidnapping of Condemned Criminals. — Recapture. — End of a Reign of Ter- ror. — Western Business Methods. — Americans Like the Industrious Germans. — Gambling Houses. — The American Press. — Prospects. — Living. — Miners, as I Meet Them. — Strolls in the Vicinity. — Mexican Herders 170 LETTER VIII* Mining Experiences near Long Bar on the Yuba River. — California. — Description of Virgin Lands and Forests, Primitive Mining Im- plements. — Life in Mining Camps. — Outfit of the Typical Miner. — Indians and Their Habits in These Regions. — Mexican Muleros. — Strange Tourists. — Ox-team Journey. — Snakes. — Newly-made Friends. — The Snow-line. — Hard Traveling. — A Wet Camping *This letter was translated years ago by the late Dr. Theodor Wollweber, an intimate friend of the author. CONTENTS vii PAGE Ground. — Grass Valley at Last.' — A Deserted Tavern. — Our Log House on Nelson Creek. — Up Hill and Down Hill. — A Family Memorial Day. — Animal Life in the Mountains. — Actual Work. — Independence Bar. — The Transformation. — Prices of Eatables 204 LETTER IX Inclemency of Weather in the Mining Districts and Its Effects. — Various Experiences. — Game. — American River-steamers. — Trip to Sacramento. — The Capital. — Back to San Francisco. — Wonderful Improvements. — The Wharves and the Daily Happenings. — A Re- markable Incident, Showing the Superiority of American Ship- building. — Cholera Cases. — Something More About the Indians. — Resolutions. — Diary Notes. — Struggles for the Daily Bread. — Ex- pressman No. 107. — Hotel Waiter 258 LETTER X The First Alameda Boom in 1853. — A Typical Western Real Estate Deal of Early Days. — Philanthropist Chipman. — An Honest Man. — Superiority of the American Press. — Americans Ahead. — San Francisco's Upbuilding. — Great Shipping Facilities. — Troud of America. — Ups and Downs. — Strange Things Happen. — Success for the Worker Assured. — Current Coins in 1853. — Godcfroy's Secret. — Baron von Schroedcr's Gulden. — Tit for Tat 279 LETTER XI Christmas in Childhood Days. — Dreams. — Etoubleau Sells Out. — The Journeyman Painter. — Diary Notes. — Sylvester Dreams. — Mexican Settlers. — Missions. — Medieval Architecture. — Watsonville. — A Berlin Dragon. — Shipwreck. — A Narrow Escape. — Cape Bonita, a Dangerous Rock. — Help 293 LETTER XII Meditations. — A Treat. — An Orange Speculation. — German-American Press. — Diary Notes : Trip to San Pedro. — The "City of Angels." — Distasteful Employment. — Assaulted for Righteous Opposition. — The Carriage Painter. — Debts Paid. — Flagman. — Compass-man. — Assistant Deputy County Surveyor. — Desert Survey. — Catalina Island in 1856. — San Pedro. — Anaheim, a Settlement of Stock- holders. — Wilmington. — Clerkship. — Politics. — The Quarrel. — Lion- ized in Los Angeles. — Appointed Deputy County Clerk. — The Ex- plosion of the S. S. "Ada Hancock." — Horrors at Wilmington. — Local Coal Oil Wells Discovered in 1865. — Back to San Fran- cisco. — At Wertheimer's. — A Friend's Transition. — Friendly Turns. — Off for Europe. — Farewell Parade at Los Angeles 303 viii CONTENTS LETTER XIII PAGE The Trip via Panama. — Unpleasant Crossing. — Cuba. — New York. — Baxter-street. — Chinatown. — Churches and Seats of Learning. — Newark. — Valley of the Delaware. — Buffalo. — Niagara Falls. — The Lakes. — Goat Island. — Three Sisters. — Nature's Divine Revela- tion. — Return Trip to New York. — Cheap Traveling. — The "Cim- bria." — Transatlantic Scenes. — Hamburg. — Home Again. — In Time for the Father's Funeral. — Return to America. — Grabow. — Ham- burg Once More ! — Excursions. — Claudius. — Circus Renz. — Neil's. — Rudecindo Roche 322 LETTER XIV Back in New York. — Earthquakes in San Francisco. — Western News. — Motthaven. — Tremont. — Blackwell's Island. — Manhattan College. — Return to California. — Harbor Scenes in Romantic Panama. — Human Sardines. — Coast Scenes. — Acapulco and Its People. — Lower California. — Stars and Stripes Welcomed. — San Francisco Once More. — Bound for Los Angeles. — Laura Bevan. — Survey- ing. — Wedding Bells. — Politics. — County Surveyor 336 Diary and Notes Los Angeles Vigilance Committee. — Chinese Massacre. — Notes on the Franco-German War. — Education. — New Era. — Sudden Illness. — Long Suffering. — The End 339 ILLUSTRATIONS Pcnskctchcd by the Author in Passing. PAGE Portrait of the Author in 1851 Frontispiece The French Coast of Calais 75 Hamburg Bark "Victoria," Captain J. Meyer 83 ^ Coast of Fireland near Cape St. Vincent 115- Snow-capped Northern Coast of Fireland 11" Another Scene near the Cape 119 A Long Mountain Chain Including Cape St. Vincent 121 Cape San Diego 123 Cape Good Success 125 San Diego, Ramirez Islands 129 The Storm-beaten Bark "Victoria" 129 Harbor Beach of Corral 131 ■' Village of Corral in Chile 133 ' The Old Fort Corral 135 Landing in Corral 137 Map of the Feather and Yuba River Mining Districts 20G- Log Cabin at Nelson Creek 243 "La Soledad" 309 Mohave Swamp 31 1 Scene in the Mohave River 313 Scene from the River of the Plains 315 The Author in Manhood 339 Mrs. Lecouvreur 349 IX ' PREFACE When the late Frank Lecouvreur left his native land in 1851 for California, leaving behind him his parents and the dear friends of his youth, following the promptings of his large heart he kept a careful journal of the sights and the unusual experiences that were his in travel, and in the new land he had chosen as a field for his activities. After his death, which occurred January 17, 1901, in Los Angeles, California, it was found that this journal and the letters covering the period of absence from, his native home had been carefully preserved by members of his family to whom they were addressed and it seemed to his wife and friends, that while these letters were often of a nature such as would be written only to one's intimates, and were frequently expressions of the innermost feel- ings of the man, yet because the record of such a life could not but be helpful to others, and especially to young men in whose training and development Mr. Lecouv- reur was ever deeply interested, his widow has consented to the publication of these letters and the journal in a form that could be distributed among his friends. Iden- tified from the beginning with the public life of Los An- geles, it is fitting that a brief sketch of his activities and accomplishments should preface these letters. Frank Lecouvreur was born in Ortelsburg, Prussia, June 7, 1829, and was christened Theodor Maximilian Ferdinand Franz Lecouvreur, his father being of French nativity, while his mother was the accomplished daugh- ter of Mayor Minuth of Bartenstein, East Prussia. Happily born, and of an ancestry that combined na- tional as well as personal characteristics, young Lecouv- reur's childhood was spent in an environment that could xi Xll PREFACE but develop an exceptional character. He received a thorough education as a civil engineer, and became as well a fine linguist. Acquiring liberal ideas and having inherited a predilection for a larger liberty he resolved, upon attaining his majority, to migrate to the great re- public of the New "World and to visit California, going by way of Cape Horn. His letters cover this period of his life very fully, and detail his voyage and experiences in the then undeveloped country. A man of culture and refinement, artistic sensibilities, and a keen observer, of warm-hearted and religious tem- perament, it was not remarkable that he became at once closely identified with the best life of the New California. Arriving in Los Angeles in 1855 he was made deputy county clerk for three years and thus at once became of public service to his chosen country. Later he served as a deputy of Major Henry Hancock, the county surveyor, under whom the celebrated "Hancock's Survey" was made. Subsequently he served two terms, of two years each, as county surveyor, during which he made many very important surveys for the county. It fell to him to par- tition for the Verdugo family, one of the oldest and wealthiest of Spanish-Calif ornia, the rancho "San Bafael" of 44,000 acres, or eleven Spanish leagues, being one of four of the oldest grants from the King of Spain, in Alta California. Declining the offer of a third term as county surveyor he retired from public office and assumed the responsible position of cashier of the Farmers' and Merchants' Bank, in which corporation he was also a director. In June of 1877 he was married to Miss Josephine Eosana Smith, and after a trip to Europe to visit his fam- ily, Mr. and Mrs. Lecouvreur returned to Los Angeles to make here their permanent home. In 1886 a serious ill- ness caused a general decline in Mr. Lecouvreur 's health and he retired from active business. This eminent civil engineer, accomplished scholar, de- voted husband and man of exalted ideals, gave to his PREFACE xin adopted city the best years of his life, and was, in every respect, a useful and esteemed citizen. The esteem in which he was held by his fellow citizens was manifested by the great concourse which attended his funeral, among whom were the most eminent men of the city. ^Ir. Lecou- vreur left no children, but was survived by his wife, who had co-operated with him in all the later benevolences of his life, and who has edited this book in the hope that it might inspire and help the young men of the present day.* *This preface is a welcome contribution from the able pen of Henry D. Barrows, the veteran pioneer, whose name is insep- arable from the History of Southern California. — Translator. FROM EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE LETTER NO. I Berlin, April 28, 1851. My Dear Parents: You will know by this time that my first voyage terminated as expected. Hardly a breath of air curled the surface of the Baltic Sea, which stretched before us like a mirror when we set sail on our long voyage, about six o'clock in the morning, on board the steamer ' ' Konigsberg, " Capt. Eybe. The air was not clear enough yet, to distinguish any attractions of the coast from Pillau to Bruesterort, which place we lost sight of by eleven o'clock. Slowly but surely the outlines of our native coast disappeared from our view, until even the last visible strip of the continent, the high- land near Elbing had sunk below our horizon like a faint, blue cloud. I realized that we were on the high sea. Softly rocking the ''Konigsberg" went on her way, while the long drawn and slowly departing clouds of smoke carried with them my last greetings toward home! It was a strange, indescribable feeling which took hold of me, when, for the first time in my life, I saw nothing around me but sky and water. Yet, I felt so well, my heart felt so at ease, and at that very moment, it seemed as if the following words were clearly written upon my soul: "Thy resolution was well taken, thou hast done the proper thing." And, perhaps for the first time in my life, I felt happy and contented. About half-past twelve, the lighthouse of Stela came in sight. We overtook a whole fleet of ships coming from Pillau, and as they were 15 16 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE mostly within speaking distance, it gave me quite an en- tertainment. I counted two brigs, eleven schooners, two sloops, four yachts, all under full sail, when we overtook them, one by one. Though we were but three German miles from Stela, we could recognize but very little, as most points of that vicinity are very low. The coast does not rise until one reaches Eieserhoft, the high tower of which we passed about four o'clock in the afternoon at a distance of nearly four miles and a half. Fortunately the air cleared toward six o'clock, so that we were able to distinguish houses, trees and shrubberies along the coast of Eieserhoft with the naked eye. What a treat for one unaccustomed to be on the open sea for any length of time. We were now about a mile and a half from the coast and did not widen the distance until sun- set, when we went a few miles further from land without losing sight of it entirely. During the evening we passed five or six more vessels, all sea-bound. The sky was cov- ered with broken clouds ; dark and silent was the sea, the broad waves of which kept us swinging to and fro; the air was mild and all the passengers were on deck, in eluding a few who, for hours, had paid nature's tribute to the sea. We remained up and passed the evening joking, laughing, rejoicing and singing until long after the red and green signal lanterns had been set out. To- wards ten o'clock, one after the other retired. Capt. Eybe turned the command over to his mate, with whom I walked up and down the deck for quite a while, watch- ing the coast of Pomerania, which we passed at a dis- tance of perhaps two German miles. As the wind favored us from the Northeast, Nebendahl, the mate, ordered all available sails set, and when I retired, about eleven o'clock, we had made such headway that the lonely light of Eieserhoft looked like a speck on the farthest edge of the horizon. Having reached my bunk, I soon fell sound asleep in spite of the unaccustomed manner of lodging and notwithstanding the steady groaning of the machine and the noise of the immense wheels, now louder, now less noticeable, according to the movements of the ves- KONIGSBERG TO BERLIN 17 sel, as it shuffled through the waves of the ocean. I awakened shortly after five o'clock, and the quick and heavy motions of the ship at once made me aware that the wind had grown stronger during the night. When I reached the deck about six a. m. my expectation was verified by the good Northeast breeze which rilled our sails. The foam danced around our ship, reminding one of flocks of sheep. In about half an hour we perceived the church steeples of Colberg, which we passed three miles off coast about half-past eight under full sail. By nine o'clock we were able to recognize the high towers of Treptow. The wind became stronger and the ship danced merrily upon the foam-crowned waves of the Bal- tic sea. Meanwhile rain set in and continued more or less during the day and the constant rocking of the ship caused many of those who had withstood the experience so far, to become sea-sick. Even Olias looked as white as chalk and did not seem to relish the breakfast at all; what he could not eat served Griinhagen and me quite well. The sky remained clouded during the day, and though but three miles away, we were hardly able to recognize the coast. The wind blew so hard at noon that several sails had to be laid by and we retained none but the fore- mast. At twelve we found ourselves opposite Swiner- hoft. The bluff must here be about three hundred feet high. It is the highest point on the Pomeranian coast; resembling the shore between little "Warnicken and Kuhren. The wind increased its velocity from minute to minute; it rained in torrents; the waves went higher and higher, and the mighty N. N. E. wind tossed our vessel to and fro right merrily. Whenever one of the waves, which invariably caught the side of our ship, slid underneath, its white crown of foam would splash over the whole length of the deck and often threatened to roll us over and over. Righting again, our ship would cut some immense wave in two, to be lost during the next minute in mountains of foam, until some new-comer would break against our bow with a force that made ev- 2 18 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE ery joint creak. Our progress was slow, as was to have been expected under such circumstances, so that we had scarcely covered a quarter of a German mile by one o'clock, when we noticed the beautiful broad belt, which the foam of the downs had spread in front of the high coast forests of Swinerhoft. Capt. Eybe was kind enough to lend me an oil suit, which enabled me to remain on deck, notwithstanding the pouring rain. As it was absolutely impossible even for sailors to stand up straight without holding on to something, I took position alongside of the wheel. By this time every living soul was sick, even Grunhagen complained of indisposition and looked like a corpse. I, on the contrary, did not feel the slightest annoyance and even enjoyed my cigar as if I had been sitting in Conradshof drinking a cup of coffee. The cabins offered a sight to behold : tables, chairs, sea- sick passengers, men, women and children, everybody and everything in utter confusion. It mocked descrip- tion. At last we caught sight of Swinemunde, about three p. m. Three-quarters of an hour later we took a pilot on board and shortly after anchored in the Swine* (pron. d "Sweenay"), between an English schooner and a Prussian Man-of-War, the "Nix," which had arrived from London about an hour ahead of us. The roughness of the weather prevented our landing, and we set out anew after taking a few more passengers aboard and fol- lowing the course of the battleship which, like ourselves, was bound for Stettin. The raging storm caused the ship to almost become unmanageable. It had just struck seven o'clock when, while entering the mouth of the river "Oder," we experienced a terrific gust of wind which tore the foremast completely out of its holdings. The sails were beating frightfully, while torn fragments blew off, to be carried far into the Bay. But a few minutes had elapsed when of the once beautiful sail there re- mained only a collection of tattered rags. This was, how- ever, the only mishap that befell us during the voyage- not counting a few little damages near Swinemunde. At last we reached Stettin, about ten o'clock p. m. It KONIGSBERG TO BERLIN 19 was very dark when we anchored alongside of the steam- er "Carninius"; of course we remained on board till morning. It was Sunday, the 12th of April. The weather was clear and pleasant, which permitted us to land early, and enabled us to gain a good view of the few streets; we also examined a small war vessel, which was under con- struction in the large ship-yard. It happened that the great man-of-war "Salamander" was at anchor, where- fore we proceeded to take a good look at her, though no ptermission could be obtained by any stranger to visit the ship. One observation interested me greatly, namely: the difference in vegetation about the place, which struck me at once. The walls of the fortress were already covered with green and most of the trees in this vicinity had donned their fresh spring garb, the new leaves of the chestnut trees, for instance, being fully an inch long. How beautiful is our northern springtime! But just now Greenhagen and his brother have come for the purpose of taking me out for a walk, consequently I shall have to postpone the continuation of this letter till my return. At eight p, m. As you will readily understand, it has been impossible for me to make any purchases in Stettin on account of my very limited stay in the fortress. My impression of the latter has not been a very flattering one. Though the streets cannot really be called narrow, the tall buildings, most of which are five or six stories high, darken these thoroughfares considerably. About eleven o'clock we took our baggage to the sta- tion. My ticket to Berlin cost me two thalers (one thaler- seventy-five cents), and besides I had to pay nearly two more for overweight of baggage. The rapidity of dis- patching travelers at the station is truly remarkable. Si- lence and a marvelous order reign everywhere, due prob- ably to the fact that none but ex-army men can enter our railroad service or that of our custom houses. About a 20 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE hundred people with more or less baggage were dis- patched and provided with tickets in less than twenty minutes. Ten minutes before our departure there was not a train in sight, though the whole crowd of passen- gers was ready to board it. Then began the switching, the lining up of cars, the loading of freight cars, the seat- ing of passengers, examining of tickets by the conductor, who politely answers all reasonable questions as he goes from one to the other; all this was done in the twinkling of an eye and when the signal for departure was given, the steam whistle blew and the train pulled out to the very minute, at 11:45 a. m., as scheduled. To one who has never been on a railroad train, the feeling which he experiences is decidedly strange. Most people imagine the speed of the train to resemble a flash of lightning, but this is very exaggerated, as one can plainly recognize all objects which the train passes, even those which are closest to the rails. The strange noise of the rolling, the whizzing and hissing of engine and cars as they cut the air at high speed, the whistling at the approach of road stations, all this may annoy less sensitive ears than mine, particularly during the first trip.* The country between Stettin and Berlin offers very little change of scenery; only a few hills, but mostly low plains, whose well-laid-out farms give ample proof of the hard toil which the horny-handed peasant has already accomplished so early in the year; but, with all that, this monotonous sameness does not rest the eye of the trav- eler, as there are neither forests nor large bodies of water to vary the appearance of the landscape. Here and there may be some variety apparent, but that is all. The train stopped at Tanton, Passon, Angermunde, Neustadt, Eberswalde, and other little stations, three or five min- utes at a time. The stations are all well built, and in some instances even they are magnificent structures, which result is one of the benefits of government owner- *These are the natural observations one would have made when railroad travel was first introduced.- — Transl. KONIGSBERG TO BERLIN 21 ship. As our number of passengers increased at every station, it became necessary to add another locomotive at Angermiinde. Our train had eighteen passenger coaches, holding in all about eight hundred people, i. e., nearly fifty in each car. We reached Berlin at last. It was just four o'clock in the afternoon when we steamed into Grande Station near the Oranienburg gate (named after Prince William of Orange). Xo sooner had the train come to a standstill than a sentry from the Second Guard's Regiment stationed himself at every car, while some twenty constables started to examine the passes, which took much less time than I had thought. This done, ev- ery one of us received a stamped ticket, which we handed to the gate keeper.* To identify and obtain our baggage took about half an hour, after which we started for our respective lodgings. Grtinhagen has a brother living in Kochstrasse and Olias and I went to find the ''German House" in Kloster- strasse, which we reached about five o'clock. As neither of us was acquainted with the city, we were at a loss to devise a plan for the evening, therefore I resolved to de- liver a letter, which Johanna Kuhnast asked me to take to Rudolph Wilzeck — Kommandantenstrasse. Olias accompanied me to that place. Utterly ignorant of the location of the streets of Berlin, we went bravely out to discover the place of our destination. We tramped through Spandauer and Konigsstrasse, Molken- markt, Gertrudenstr., Spittelmarkt, Leipzigerstr., Don- hofsplatz until we finally drifted into Kommandantenstr., at the extreme end of which said dwelling was to be found. When we reached the place, the bird had flown, having left the city, bound for East Prussia, a few days previously. As soon as we had recovered from our disap- pointment Olias coaxed me to take a stroll through the "Thiergarten." The straight-laid streets of this part of Berlin, called Frederic's town, make it easy for a stranger to find his way. We returned partly by the same route *Remember. kind reader, that this took place more than fifty years ago. Times have changed since then. — Transl. 23 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE we had passed before until we reached the endless Fred- erickstr., which led us into the celebrated avenue ' ' Unter den Linden," with its historical edifices. Thence we en- tered the Thiergarten through the ''Gate Brandenburg." This park is the most celebrated place of recreation in all Prussia. By nine o'clock we were home again without having lost our way or even asking anyone for the direc- tion. I describe the trip at such length that you may, by looking up your map of Berlin, form some idea of the length of our tramp, which surely entitled us to a good night's rest. I assure you that I slept more soundly than during many a night before. As I already have mentioned, Griinhagen's brother took us out for a walk this forenoon. We visited the museums and passed through many streets and squares, which I had not known of before. During the afternoon our course took in the Konigsstrasse, Donhofsplatz, Jeru- salem, Frederic's and Leipzigerstrasse, then to the Leip- ziger Gate, Bellevue avenue— a beautiful thoroughfare— when at last we reached the Zoological Garden, where we staid till six o'clock, returning home through the "Thier- garten," "Unter den Linden, "and "Schlossgarten." But of what use is this minute description of our walks. Ber- lin, notwithstanding its magnificent streets, its imposing edifices, its immense palaces, its beautiful statues and rare collections of art, does not touch the heart. The day after tomorrow I shall continue my trip to Hamburg, as the very paving of these streets is burning under my feet. Tomorrow I shall visit "Friedrichshain" in order to pay my silent respects to the March Enthusiasts. Poor fel- lows!* *Noble Lecouvreur, his very soul was already filled with that intense love of freedom which brings so many Europeans ro our American shores and his youthful heart, while he was yet scarcely out of his teens, could not and would not leave the old soil with- out uncovering his head in silent prayer at the graves of the German Martyrs of Freedom. They suffered death while he, their youthful sympathizer, left home and hearth to seek true Freedom under the protection of the Stars and Stripes, rather KOXIGSBERG TO BERLIN 23 During my short stay in Berlin I have not failed to visit some historical places such as the Royal Palaces, the Breitestrasse, where the first shots of '48 were fired; the Art Academy, Armory and other places which I may have unconsciously passed by, bear witness to the days of horror. The immense mass of stone of the BO-called "Castle" made a very sad impression upon me, more so perhaps as, coining from Konigstr., my eye caught at once the iron fence, on every single gate of which there stood sometimes one, sometimes two sentries and another one, wherever the space between two> gates happened to be a foot or two wider than usual. These fellows, well armed, walk up and down the short space they are to guard; besides these, there are crowds of policemen do- ing duty by moving about the inner court. A chill ran through my veins. He, who has already inhaled Free- dom's air at sea, cannot really care for Berlin— cannot harmonize with Berlin people. It is not an uncommon thing to see well-dressed men take off their hats in pass- ing the empty carriage of some royal personage or to show the same respect to a passing stable boy who hap- pens to wear royal livery. Mother Nature has favored the country surrounding Berlin more than that of Stettin. The fruit trees are al- ready dropping their blossoms, and tulips, lilies and other flowers appear in full bloom. My next letter will be dated from Hamburg, where I hope to receive one from home. Please do not address any more letters in care of Knohr and Burchard, but rather in care of Heinrich Bartsch. How I long to be on the open sea once more. To-mor- row, as I mentioned before, I shall visit the cemetery which harbors the March heroes, and then— good-bye. Berlin; good-bye forever, I hope! To tlio few, whom T love, and to those who love me, to every one of you, a hearty farewell. (Signed) FRANZ LECOUVPETJB. than to sec his growing manhood crushed by Order of the King. — Transl. 24 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE *Before proceeding with the description of Berlin in the beginning of the Hamburg letter, which I am convinced will impress the reader from more than one point of view, let it be remembered that our young author, as is quite common with young, wide-awake students, had inhaled the teachings of political world-saviors, so-called. In his particular case it was Karl Marx, the shrewd German socialist, whose doctrines were being expounded by able agitators throughout the Fatherland and the dangerous effects of which had clearly manifested themselves in the March Revolution of 1848. While the Prussian government seemed quite well in- formed as to the progress of the brewing trouble in the provinces, and prepared to meet it, the probability of an early outbreak in the very heart of Berlin seemed not to have been given any credence in highest circles. How- ever, they soon realized their mistake, when it was dis- covered that, notwithstanding the great vigilance of their police, a number of political offenders, who had been ex- iled from the kingdom, had re-entered the Capital and systematically agitated the working classes and student bodies, sowing discontent wherever they found a chance. Young people, particularly in sentimental Germany, are always quick in accepting a method offered which has for its seeming purpose the redemption of all ills, the ''wronged classes" are said to be heir to. Is it then so surprising that such brilliant minds, as that of young Le- couvreur, should have become greatly enthused over the teachings of men like Karl Marx, the Moses of Socialism, Etienne Cabet, the French pedagogue and communist, and his followers, Louis Blanc and Buchez, whose motto: "Liberty, Equality and Fraternity" had electrified even the "German Michel?" One who had learned to admire such writers as Borne, Heine and Freiligrath, could not fold his hands in idleness during this history-making pe- riod. Notwithstanding the fact that King Frederick Wil- liam IV. tried his utmost to pacify the people, there oc- *Remarks by translator. KONIGSBERG TO BERLIN 25 curred fierce fights in the streets between the masses and the royal troops, in which on the eighteenth of March, eighteen hundred and forty-eight, no less than one hun- dred and eighty-three civilians and twenty soldiers were killed. Though the troops had gained a sad victory, the King, who loved peace with his people above everything else, in the spirit of his lamented mother, the great Queen Louisa, granted the very next day, among other royal favors, the total amnesty of all political offenders, and witnessed in person the funeral of the fallen civilians, whose remains were given solemn burial at Friedrichs- hain, a cemetery described elsewhere. The following letter from H. E. H. Prince Frederic "William, son of the reigning King's brother, William, and later father of the present Emperor of Germany, to Eduard Baeyer, an intimate of his youth, was recently published by the ever well-informed ' ' Konigsberger Har- tungsche Zeitung." This letter is a part of the communi- cations concerning this friendship, as appeared in an ar- ticle by Mrs. Emma Ribbeck, nee Baeyer, in the " Deutsche Rundschau," a periodical of great influence. What to the translator seems to emphasize the weight of the following lines is the fact, which no German reader will overlook, that they were written on the very birth- day anniversary of the Prince's illustrious father, the great William the First. During his reign, which fol- lowed that of Frederick William IV., all Germany cele- brated the twenty-second of March. But let us read the letter, which bears rhetorical proof of great excitement under which the august writer labored: Potsdam, March 22, 1848. My Dear, Good Baeyer:— This very moment I received your dear letter, the first one since I left Berlin. You will easily imagine how I feel. What I have experienced since last Saturday has aged me many a year, and I am moved to confess that everything seems to have been but a bad dream— a nightmare. The terrible scenes of last Sunday, the heroic deeds of our troops on Saturday, all that I wit- 26 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE nessed from the windows of the castle— but there is no need of telling you. You are- probably as well informed, if not better than I. But when I left Berlin on Sunday night about seven o'clock, passing the citizen's guard, my heart bled. Fortunately, I met soldiers in most of the halls, which fact had a soothing influence upon me. Many were the proofs of devotion which the officers showed me until I reached the carriage that drove me along the "Linden" to the residence of Major Oelrichs in the Pots- damerstreet. My sister, the Princess Louise,* was with me, while my parents remained with the King. We after- wards drove to Potsdam and are safe at present. I thought to dream that night of the awful, horrifying sight of that funeral procession. The departure of the troops, which left the castle virtually without power of defense, was dreadful indeed. And! what ai humiliation for our dear King and the poor, sick Queen, to be forced by the people to view the horrible corpses from the bal- cony amongst the howling, shouting threats of the multi- tude. This is terrible to me and never shall I care to en- ter the court-yard again. Really, I am disgusted with Berlin forever! I was present on Saturday from four o'clock till midnight and witnessed the struggles of our brave soldiers. Words do not suffice to describe the valor with which they fought. God be praised that, compared with the loss sustained by the mob, but few of our sol- diers fell ; every report of a wounded soldier was terrible to me. This was the first murderous encounter at which I have ever been present ; I am now prepared to go upon the battlefield, the sight will no more be new to me. Last Sunday was the most ill-fated day of my life, up to now. When I left the house in the morning to drive to the cas- tle, a voice told me: "You will not return for some time!" And, how it stands! My effects were then already and are now in safety, many even are in my possession at present. From the moment I entered the castle, where *Later Grand Duchess of Baden and then only ten years of age ; the prince was seventeen at the time, — Tr. KONIGSBERG TO BERLIN 27 many officers of my regiment vied to kiss my hand in deepest emotion until the time when I drove away again in the evening, the awful howling never ceased, but con- tinued in my ears long through the night. My poor par- ents are well and in safety. Papa will go to England, but he does not run away; he received a mission from the King. I have seen both of them. Everything is in per- fect quiet and safety here in Potsdam. The local protec- tion committee is uncommonly well organized. My other younger relatives, with the exception of cousin Freder- ick Karl, and my sister, are all in safety, but not with us. The poor Charlotte is nearly beside herself, having es- caped almost miraculously. When will her confirmation* take place and mine? God alone knows. But I have not lost courage. I trust in God! He will do all things well. Now it is time for me to close. I have given you as many particulars as possible, whatever passed through my heart. But I have scrawled terribly. I hope you will be able to read it all. That you are rejoicing now and able to forget the past, seems quite probable to me, in considera- tion of the present excitement. I, for my part, cannot be happy, but bow in obedience to the new measures, taken by the King, which will prove beneficial with the help of God. It will be a long time before I shall be really happy again! You will not see me very soon in Berlin. Fare- well. Pardon the poor handwriting and convey my most sincere greetings to all friends. Tell them, as well as our teachers, that I always remember them, that I am in safety and ready to trust God in all things, and that I am well prepared to bear, with courage and fortitude, the great misfortune which has befallen us, and which I look upon as sent by God. Tell all friends from the contents of this letter, whatever you may doom proper for thorn to know, nothing or all; I leave that to your judgment. *The royal family is Lutheran, and the confirmation here men- tioned refers to the church ceremony, during which a promise of perseverance in the Lutheran faith is made. — Trans. 28 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Pray for us, all of you, as I do for you. May God bless all of us and may He grant us an early reunion ! Your ever faithful friend, FRIEDRICH WILHELM. P. S.— I beg you, for God's sake, be careful with this letter and do not show it to anyone. Just tell them what- ever may be of consoling interest as regards our fate, but not the thoughts which I may have expressed. If you do not think that you will be able to hide the letter, burn it instantly. Nobody is to read it, except perhaps it be Schellbach, whom I have already seen and spoken to, tete a tete, for, believe me, this region is full of spies and emissaries; so one has to weigh every word carefully. I am only too well aware of it. Be very careful in your own behalf. Now, farewell, and be prudent in all things. F. W. The foregoing will serve the reader to better under- stand the feeling of our author, who was but three years older than H. E. Highness, and who represented at the time— the other side. He visits the very battle-field upon which his fellow-endeavorers had paid the penalty for the folly of their ignorance or misdirected sentimentality. With the Berlin letter closes that period of his life; in it we find the last expressions of the author's sympathy for the cause he espoused in his youth. He was bound for the New World and he determined to free himself from the drawbacks of the old. (Translator.) LETTER NO. II My Last Hours in Berlin— Voyage from Berlin to Ham- burg— Hamburg and the Hamburg People. Hamburg, May 6th, 1851. "When I arose from my feather-bed on the morning of April the 29th, my resolution to leave Berlin on the fol- lowing day was unshaken. I had spent already twenty- four hours to watch this cradle of vanity and splendor, and thought it sufficient ; indeed, it did suffice, for another twenty-four hours filled me with so much disgust that it would have been a torture for me to spend the rest of my life in Berlin. Still, let there be justice, where justice is due. The city itself is beautiful, that is, for him who can see something beautiful in a mass of houses, if I may use the expression: "in Sunday-go-to-meeting attire." The weather was bright; trees and lawns were in full spring dress; clean streets, shining window-panes everywhere, door steps and everything admirably clean, whether I examined the most imposing or the simplest, the colossal or the most humble sights; everything was intended to be artistically impressive, and would have undoubtedly been so in my regard— had it not been for the people — such a people! Whosoever doubts the veracity of my words may take a leisurely walk on any bright afternoon from Donhofts- platz through Louisenstrasse (named after the immortal Queen Louisa of Prussia), Friedrichstr., Unter den Lin- den, to the Brandenburger thor, taking precaution to avoid in his attire anything that would or could attract attention. I went without cuffs or necktie, dressed very plainly. Thus you will have the best opportunity to ob- serve the thousands and thousands who pas< you with or 29 30 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE without a purpose. The rnain feature which the visitor of this metropolis will at once recognize is the spirit of servility, often followed by or combined with undeniable traits of depravity, which are mirrored in the very faces of numberless men and women. From the coachman to the prince in the showy carriage, from the servant girl to the countess, from the private of the Grenadiers to the General, from the cash boy to the King's counselor— ev- erybody brags, everybody tries to impress everybody else in word and action, yes, in his very walk, that he is ever so much superior to anyone else until— one higher in so- cial standing happens along, then 0! how small, how very humble the hero of a minute before has suddenly be- come. It was Monday evening on Leipziger Platz, that 1 witnessed the gentleman, mentioned in my last letter, who wore a decoration of rank in his button-hole pro- foundly saluting the coachman or— the empty carriage he was driving, which bore the coat of arms of its royal owner— I had to refrain from giving this old hypocrite a piece of my angered mind. How true is the much criti- cised description of the immortal Heine, contained in these words: "It really takes several barrels of poetry to find anything else in Berlin but dead houses and dead people." It is seldom you see a real man. Everything though new, everybody, even the young, is so old, so withered— so dead! After I had dressed myself on Tues- day morning I found myself so disappointed, so ill-hu- mored, that I did not care to leave the house all the fore- noon, and not until four o'clock in the afternoon did I decide to visit Hasenkamp, which meant a long walk, as he is staying with Dorn, the lawyer, in Anhaltstr. I was fortunate in finding him at home, but he had changed so much that I scarcely recognized him. Sickness had dis- figured him terribly and compelled the growth of a beard. I spent two very pleasant hours with him, as he was in an excellent frame of mind. He showed me his wounds, one of which was caused by a chance shot, two inches long, on the calf of the right leg, while the other proved to be of a serious nature, the bullet having entered the BERLIN TO HAMBURG 31 right side of the abdomen and gone clear through, leav- ing the body hardly a finger's width from the spinal cord, just below the false ribs. The scars are as big as a dol- lar. He described the skirmish near Friedriclistadt in vivid colors, up to the time when, being about forty feet from the enemy, the bullet struck him. At first he left the wound unnoticed, as the feeling resembled that of an electric shock, but dizziness soon overtook him, fol- lowed by chills and fever, which slowly deprived him of consciousness, not soon enough, however, to prevent the frightening realization that he was mortally wounded. The last words which his fading senses caught were: ' ' Der Hauptmann ist todt ! " ( The captain is dead ! ) Pic- ture to yourself the excruciating pains when he awoke from his first fainting spell to find himself lifted upon two rifles and carried away from the scene of battle- even without emergency bandages. They next put him on a stretcher and drove him in a pouring rain through badly paved streets and market places to the lazareth (soldiers' hospital) which was fully eight English miles away from the first place. He recovered very slowly and even yet bears the burden of a martyr's life. The two very pleasant hours had flown rapidly and I truly regret- ted to take leave of this honest, sterling man, whose heart and mind evinced qualities too rarely met. There re- mained on my program but one more part to fulfil— my intended visit to Friedrichshain to honor the graves of those who have already honored us. I now hastened to accomplish this purpose. Passing the Landsberger street and gate, one observes to the left of the avenue a small hill, upon the top of which there are two windmills. Between these and the city there lies the cemetery of Friedrichshain, well laid out with young trees and flowers. At the foot of the hill which is nearest the city, T found the resting-place of the heroes of the eighteenth of March, eighteen hundred and forty-eight. It is a square of between seventy-five and one hundred feet, hedged in by a low, wooden fence. Ev- ery corner has an open entrance. Parallel with the fence 32 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE run the graves, leaving a walk of about five feet in width between them. The whole offers the thoughtful visitor a fit subject for meditation. The two rows of graves have been converted into beautiful flower-beds, while the cen- ter of this sad, silent spot has been laid out for a lawn. Words cannot describe the impression which this ever sorrow-inspiring place left upon me. Step by step I wan- dered from grave to grave, from cross to cross, every one of which was covered with fresh wreaths. Beautiful ivy bowers, as thickly grown as I had never seen them be- fore, had risen from the graves of those whose noble deeds will ever live in the hearts of freedom-loving men. Be it then said to the honor and credit of the Berlin people that they have set a monument to the memory of those who died for their convictions, which is likewise a tribute to the piety of the living. They cared for these, their dead, so beautifully, that this act alone has reconciled me to a great extent with Berlin-at-large. The evening was very mild. I sat long upon one of those graves and saw the sun slowly disappear from my horizon. Strange were the visions which entranced me. It seemed to me that the departing rays of the sun were only too anxious to hasten away from the mass of cold houses of Berlin, while they hovered gladly over the silent crosses along- side of me in apparent search of a moment's rest. My dreams and my feelings of that hour I am unable to describe; they were undefinable. At last I arose. The bluish fog had already commenced to overspread the end- less plain, and the approaching darkness reminded me that it was time to seek my temporary quarters. Of all the beautiful tombstone inscriptions I remember but one: "Peace be to his spirit!" I shall never forget it. How many thousands have visited this spot without reading these inspiring words and how many, reading them, un- derstood their significance ? I shall never wish for a more beautiful, more spiritual, more soulful epitaph!* *Consider, that you are reading - the letter of a youth, addressed to his parents and admire with me the purity of a heart and a BERLIN TO HAMBURG 33 Wednesday, the thirtieth of April, found me an early riser. Olias preferred to stay a few more days in Ber- lin, but he and I had already sent the heavier baggage to the station the day before, so that it could be forwarded by freight and still reach Hamburg in time. Each of us kept about fifty pounds which are allowed every passen- ger on the railroad. My fare— third class— amounted to four thaler and five Silbergroschen (about three dollars). The train pulled out of Berlin at 7:30 a. m. Our first stop occurred at Spandau, the well-known and much- dreaded fortress, where many a brave man serves time for political offenses, for having a mind of his own and the courage to express it. The road leads along the banks of the Havel with its little inlets, bridges and miniature bays. The picturesque changes of water, fields, hidden villages, now and then a farm house or fisherman's hut, were materially heightened by a fabulous number of boats, large lumber boats, boats carrying grain and other field products to the larger cities and seaports, or return- ing home with merchandise of every description, such as coffee, rice, staple goods of every kind, dry goods, furni- ture, etc. The shining white sails of these boats which by the way are the floating homes of their owners, in- crease the attractiveness of the pretty scenery under the mild rays of the early morning sun. Everything looked charmingly fresh. x\fter leaving Spandau, there was a decided change for the worse. As far as the eye could see, there were fields and fields and nothing but fields and prairie-like monotony. The crops, too, looked poor- ly, as the soil is too sandy to give much encouragement. The low hills here and there resemble the stretches of the far-away ocean so much that I was tempted more than once to look round for the missing waves. Notwithstand- ing the apparent scarcity of vegetation, the neighborhood soul, filled with the love of Freedom, which caused him to leave an unsympathizing country in order to seek liberty of body and mind in free America. — Transl. 34 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE seems to be pretty well inhabited and somehow or in some way the people must make a living.* Here and there a little forest of fir-trees made a wel- come change during the monotonous trip. We passed Nauen, Paulinenaue, Friesack, Neustadt an der Dosse, Zernitz, Wilsnack, until we reached Wittenberge, which has a branch custom-home, where all passengers and goods coming from Prussia were requested to undergo slight formalities without the annoyance of revision, how- ever. After Wittenberge, the desert— for no other name is applicable to this barren, desolate country, where the eye can feast on nothing but shrubbery, mostly withered, from which now and then you see a stunted fir-tree arise, which casts its forlorn glance about for companionship, for the old adage, "Misery loves company," seems to find its echo even in the vegetable kingdom. As if we were to drink the cup to overflowing, it began to rain in torrents right after we left Wittenberge and nothing could have made this desert look sadder. When we reached Boitzenburg, having passed Grabow, Lud- wigslust, Hagenow in quick succession, the weather for- tunately cleared up and gave us a chance to view this pretty little town and its refreshing surroundings. Here one obtains a good view of the low lands of the river "Elbe," which is quite an agreeable change for the eye of the lonely traveler. After Boitzenburg— another desert, until one reaches Schwarzenbeck, which is situated on a hill. The moment one arrives at this station everything seems to change as if by magic. One may here behold a most picturesque rural scene. Here and there a village with its friendly church steeple, brooks winding in zig-zag lines through the little valley. Little forests here and there, proud to show off in their new spring coats, all of which combines *They do, by raising potatoes and grain for starch mills and distilleries, and in later years, by raising sugar beets for export, which is encouraged by a government premium, of which young Lecouvreur had no knowledge at the time. — Transl. BERLIN TO HAMBURG 35 to offer the traveler a refreshing change. These pleasant scenes continue all the way to Hamburg. We passed Friedrichsruh, Reinbeck, Bergedorf and reached our des- tination at three-fifty p. m. Hamburg and the Hamburg People. To take a much needed rest I went to the hotel "City of Kiel," near the station; but changed quarters the next morning, and am presently located in the "New City of Berlin" on the Monkedamm, near the great "Merchant's Exchange." Hugo arrived Friday morning from Berlin and since then we have been rooming together. We get along quite well and have laid our plans so as to make our stay as inexpensive as possible, for there are in mi merable channels by which our little money can be spent. For breakfast and supper we bought bread, butter, cheese and sausage. I may say, wholesale, so as to save the high charges in local restaurants; for our daily noon meal, which is the only square, warm meal of the day, we have discovered a plain but very respectable inn, where we are well served for eight Hamburg shillings (about twen- ty cents). Once in a while, when we feel particularly hilarious, we buy a bottle of wine, which costs but six or eight shillings, and very good for the money. Though I am exceedingly disappointed to have to waste a whole month doing absolutely nothing, it cannot be helped and the best thing one can do is to follow the advice of a great modern philosopher: "Under all cir- cumstances keep an even mind."* The time between the twentieth and thirtieth may be legally charged to the local shipping agents, Knohr and Burchard; for it is stipulated in the legal provision, re- ferred to, that a sum of twelve shillings a day be paid during the time of delay, where date of departure has *Young Lecouvreur seems to have taken this motto through life as his magic staff, leaning upon which, he overcame difficul- ties which to others appeared insuperable. — Transl. 36 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE been agreed upon and said delay caused unwarranted expense for the person concerned, provided berth shall ha,ve been engaged under such conditions. In my case it only amounts to about three German thaler, but I shall surely not let Knohr and Burchard be the gainers. What is good for them is still better for me. You will readily understand that Hugo and I live as economically as snails — faute d' argent. Yv T e seldom venture out during the forenoon, but are generally at the great "Exchange" by one o'clock, about two we have our dinner, after which the daily pleasure walk, which mostly starts or ends at the Harbor. Between seven and eight o'clock we return home, where we at once proceed to bed in order to save candles. Thus we spend day after day. I have every reason to be grateful to Kosenstock for his letter of rec- ommendation to Heinrich Bartsch; this gentleman assists me in many ways and shows general interest in me; but of this I shall write later. Now a few words about Ham- burg and the Hamburger people, in as much as I have had opportunity to judge of them during my short stay. If someone were to ask me to personify Berlin I should not hesitate in comparing her to a vain, coquettish, yet well-mannered, middle aged but still attractive Lady of the Court; but Hamburg— that is quite a difficult propo- sition. Hamburg, seen from different sides, impresses one dif- ferently. The magnificent harbor, the beautiful Jung- fernstieg (Maiden-Promenade), the Alster, the great Ex- change, the Old-Town, the suburbs St. Pauli and St. George— each represents a type of its own, and still through them all winds its way like a red thread, the Merchant Prince.* You find him everywhere, on the promenades, in the Opera as well as in the many lesser theaters, concert halls, beer gardens, wine cellars, restau- rants — mostly subterranean— everywhere the merchant prince. All Hamburg breathes commerce. As the "Ex- *Commercienrath, a mere title, given by sovereigns to favorite bankers and merchants. BERLIN TO HAMBURG 37 change" is situated in the very center of this Metropolis, one need not be surprised that it has become the soul of all material and intellectual lift' here; he who doubts it will easily become convinced if he pays a visit to the said place about "Exchange time," i. e., from one to two in the afternoon. The Exchange opens promptly at one o'clock; at ten minutes past the gates close and every late-comer has to deposit a small fine except, I am told, if he is an active member of the Board of Commerce, to which, how- ever, only a limited number of the most influential mer- chants are eligible. The inner hall measures about two hundred feet square, but a few minutes suffice to fill ev- ery inch with humanity, so that, viewing from the gal- leries, the spectator can see nothing bnt one black mov- ing mass, head on head, mostly adorned with the indis- l^ensable headgear of a Hamburg merchant, the tall, black silk hat. A double row of arcades, supported by immense pillars, surround the inner hall. The Exchange reading rooms, the assembly rooms of the Board of Com- merce and the reception parlors are right above the ar- cades, while the main hall has an immense skylight for its roof. The galleries, whence one can watch the whole jyroceedings, are about thirty-live feet above the ground floor, and entrance to the different library and committee rooms is effected from there. All those rooms even are so filled with people during exchange hours that one can scarcely pass. And yet, there is a system governing this immense busy bulk of humanity or merchant body. Every branch of commerce has its circle and every member of that circle has his place, elbowing his sharpest competitor in the most har- monious manner. The polished floor itself is marked with well-measured squares, circles, triangles and the like figures, whereby the respective members may know and remember their stand. There is the banker's, the exporters', the commissioners', the dry goods merchant, the ship-brokers', the stock-brokers', the cotton mer- chants' and numberless other circles. Harmony reigns supreme and the old Hamburg motto: "The keener the 38 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE competition, the greater the fun," seems to pervade ev- erybody and everything. What a sight for the onlooker from one of the galleries, where every stranger, who has not come on a business mission, goes to watch the world 's marketing. ♦ Many a foreign potentate of civilized and uncivilized domains visits the Hamburg Exchange and marvels at this industrial bee-hive of the old Hansatown, which was founded by Charlemagne in the year 811 A. D. It was he who granted the city free trade and a special legislature. But my thoughts return to the Exchange. What a con- course of nationalities. Within the space of half an hour one may converse with natives from every corner of the globe. You hear German, French, English, Dutch, Span- ish, Danish, Flemish, Norwegian, Swedish, Russian, Sla- vonian, Persian and many other tongues, which I heard spoken during my few visits. The whole has something fascinating and yet stupifying. I have been there three times without being able to give an exact description of this truly overwhelming experience. No stranger should leave Hamburg without having visited this center of com- merce, this soul of the commonwealth, for Hamburg is at the Exchange, as the Exchange is Hamburg in bulk. No wonder, then, that the galleries are adorned with representatives of the beautiful sex from all parts of the world. While the building itself is not particularly remarka- ble for its architectural beauty, there is certainly some- thing imposing about it which tells the new-comer almost instantaneously: "This is the Exchange of the world's market." I felt impressed that way when crossing the Adolph's platz for the first time, facing the main en- trance. Hamburg, May 7th, 1851. I commenced this letter yesterday and will endeavor to continue it now at my leisure until it will be long enough to send to my beloved ones at home. Having tried to picture the Exchange in the few lines BERLIN TO HAMBURG 39 above, I shall now proceed to give you a short description of the harbor, where I am a daily visitor. Hamburg and the suburb of Saint Paul extend about three English miles along the eastern bank of the "Elbe;" one-half of this distance is generally known as the "In- ner Harbor," where mostly smaller vessels congregate, such as carry freight up and down the river as far as Bodenbach Tetschen-Bohemia., and of which I have made mention in one of my previous letters. The seaport proper is at the mouth of the ' ' Elbe ; " it is about half a mile long and takes in the whole width of the river which measures about seventeen hundred and fifty feet. The so-called "Gate of the Habor," which divides the city line from St. Pauli, is sharp on the bank of the river and about one hundred feet wide, reaching to a small hill, called Stintfang, the top of which is flattened and fenced in by cast-iron railings. I went there last evening for the first time. The weather was beautiful and I ascended the hill with a certain amount of reverence. Do you, my be- loved ones, still remember the beautiful scene which was one of the main attractions of the "Konigsberg" picture gallery: "Hamburg, as seen from the Stintfang?" How often, during my childhood days, did I look admiringly upon that scene, while my thoughts earned me to the Elbe and the many, many ships of all nations and to the immense mass of houses of the old Hansatown. It was one of my favorite dreams. But yesterday, I did not stand admiringly in front of the picture; I stood, behold- ing in fact that ocean of moving vessels on one side, and the innumerable buildings on the other. Really and truly, it was no dream, but rather a more impressive real- ization. My feelings are difficult to explain. I drew all kinds of comparisons between the painting in the Home Gallery and the original, the magnificent living picture now before me; again, I compared the sentiments which enlivened my mind in childhood days to those of early manhood; in other words, between the time when, filled with a child's pure, happy confidence, I dnred to laugh at the future probabilities of life and the present, when, 40 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE having perhaps the happiest and most instructive time of my life behind me and entering upon an uncertain future not altogether without distrust in my own inward strength, though full of faith in the wisdom and goodness of God. The school of life is not altogether new to me, I have had some very severe experiences and am only one among the many who will have to find means of existence in it. However, confidence in Providence, and in our own inner self, and an earnest persevering will, have done great things at all times, and I propose to do my share. There is nothing more attractive in Hamburg than the harbor-site, as seen from the Stmtfang, at the foot of which the visitor beholds a panorama never to be forgot- ten. One observes three rows of piles along the bank. The large ocean vessels are chained to these piles and between the rows which form perfect water avenues, one observes small and large freight boats, lighters, which carry the merchandise to and fro. This is necessary, as the hundreds of steamers and large sailing vessels can- not all anchor conveniently without being seriously in- commodated by the tides. Vessels, which cannot find proper accommodation on entering the immense harbor, have to anchor in the middle of the Elbe until some out- going boats make room for the newcomer, which pro- cedure is well regulated by the harbor commission and carefully watched by the harbor police, who patrol the waterways with painful regularity.* Looking about, the searching eye cannot penetrate the acreages of sails, masts and riggings, which are appa- rently made the more solid by the constant smoke and coal-dust arising either from the many ship-galleys or *During the last twenty years about one hundred and fifty million marks, i. e. something like thirty-eight million dollars, have been spent in rebuilding the docks and enlarging facilities for transient-storage, which fact has made this harbor superior to the old rivals, Liverpool, Amsterdam and Antwerp. And all but ten million dollars were raised by subscription-bonds among local merchants and bankers, which will give the reader an idea of the immense wealth of that city. — Transl. BERLIN TO HAMBURG 41 from the chimneys of the numberless lighters and little steamers, which are running up and down the river by day and night, for work never stops. Vessels load and unload constantly, as the saving of time as well as the nature of the cargo very often demands immediate at- tendance. The inclemency of the weather in winter-time is particularly the cause of many hardships. On one occasion, I am told, that the non-shipment of forty thou- sand bags of potatoes cost the shipper a small fortune, as his goods were destroyed by the intense frost which set in, while awaiting storage in an English vessel. There are four unbroken lines of vessels from all na- tions, of all shapes and build, four seemingly endless chains of merchant fleets; all along St. Pauli and the neighboring town Altona and far beyond it, one can see them busily engaged in loading and reloading their car- goes. As one hears at the Exchange languages of all civilized countries, so does one perceive in this metro- politan harbor flags of all nations of the earth, even Bra- zilian and Chilean colors. And what beautiful vessels one sees! They often resemble men-of-war rather than merchant vessels, bent upon their peaceful and harmoni- ous missions. There is, for instance, the "Gutenberg," one of the Hamburg- American passenger liners near the "Baumthor," which carries immense freights, besides being one of the best fitted passenger steamers, recently built after the most approved plans. It is named after our "Johannes Gutenberg," the inventor of the first printing press. There are many such beautiful vessels in plain sight, though they are not all as large as the one mentioned. Let us return to the "Stintfang View." One can only see a. comparatively small part of the older city and the quaint old buildings, which have little attraction for the ordinary sight-seer. The other parts of the city are gen- erally hidden from view at this time of the year, as the prevailing fog obscures the so-called "new city," i. e., that part which has been rebuilt after the fearful con- flagration in 1S42; though the early spring sun may try 42 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE for days to clear the view, it seldom succeeds until later in the season. But the view of the Elbe up stream, and of the little green islands here and there, is truly delight- ful. One can see the Hanoverian coast with its forests and coated hills lining the blue-trimmed horizon for miles. I shall visit the Stintfang as often as possible, for there more than elsewhere the familiar scenes of home and longings of the past are brought before my mind. No matter whether in company or not, I shall never feel lonesome in that place. The sun had long sent its fare- well rays, when I finally made up my mind to seek my temporary abode. During the night following I dreamt of our "Exchange Garden," probably because I had thought of it on my way to the hotel from the Stintfang, Just at this moment, being earnestly at work to famil- iarize you with Hamburg scenes, I am pleasantly inter- rupted by the arrival of your welcome letters, dated the second of May, a. c, and containing messages of love and cheer from you, dear father, my darling mother and my beloved sister, Marie. Nothing will prevent me from reading, enjoying and re-reading them, after which I shall set to work answering these love-whisperings at once, and Hamburg and the Hamburgers, however inter- esting they may be, will have to wait. Hamburg, May 8th, 1851. First of all let me thank you a thousand times for the comforting messages contained in your letters. I am really and truly happy, because you all have written so lovingly and given proof thereby that your thoughts are much more in sympathy with my doings than they were before, or immediately after my departure. I person- ally have come to the conclusion that it avails little or nothing to worry 7 about things which cannot be altered. And there I seem to hear the well-known air of Flotow's latest production, "Martha, or the Market of Rich- mond:" "Happy he who can forget that which worried heart and head."* No matter how much pain it may *Flotorr's opera, "Martha," appeared in 1846. — Transl. BERLIN TO HAMBURG 43 give us, let us be stronger than pain, the deepest wounds of which will heal under the soothing influence of Father Time. It was easy for Lessing to suggest in his immor- tal "Nathan the Wise" that: "No man is ever compelled to accept dictation" (Kein Mensch muss miissen). Hap- py he who never experiences the contrary, but pity him who is not only forced to accept, but who has to dictate his own sentence. I have been one of the latter; I was compelled to leave Konigsberg. (As mentioned in the preface, the author had to leave his home for political reasons.) You wished to know, dear father, who had supplied me with recommendations. I had three for Hamburg, two of which have already done their good work, i. e., the one from Kosenstock to Heinrich Bartsch, whom I have already mentioned, and one from Malmros to the Prussian Consul-General,* Wilhelm O'Swald, who in turn sent me two very good recommendations, one for Franz Hallmann, Valparaiso, and the other to Gent, Schott, Duncker and Bottcher in San Francisco, Califor- nia. Both letters are written in most flattering terms, owing to the warm recommendations Malmros had given me; this is a great point gained, as the firm William O'Swald & Co. ranks very high in commercial circles, in fact, its world-wide reputation is such that the signature, if attached to a young man's introductory letter, carries great weight. My third recommendation was from the Exchange broker Kalan to Louis Dubois, who contem- plates going to San Francisco himself, where he hopes to get settled by the end of next summer. He is a cousin of Bartsch and as I have only had one slight opportunity of speaking to him, there is little to be said at this time, but that my first impression left me hopeful. Besides the above mentioned there is a letter from Markwald, Konigsberg, to his brother in San Francisco, who now happens to be in Bremen and may arrive here any day. *Before 1871, each one of the separated principalities of the Fatherland, had an accredited representative near the seat of the government of the other. — Transl. 44 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Of course, I shall lay in wait for him, to surprise him with his brother's letter, when the time comes. Finally there are two more letters from Eosenstock, one to Emil Bott- eher, junior partner of Gent, Schott, Dunker and Bott- cher, and the other to his brother, Eugen Eosenstock, in which he praised my talents and good qualities in an al- most impudent manner. He has often proved to be a true friend and no matter how fate may deal with me in fu- ture, I shall always bear him and his many kind deeds in grateful remembrance. W. O'Swald has requested Franz Hallmann to further aid me with recommendations. Aside from these, I may be able to obtain one here and there, as I shall be on the lookout, wherever opportunity may present itself, so as to be well provided when I leave, the "Konigsberger Zeitung" is apparently not to be had around here and your clippings and quotations will there- fore be greatly appreciated, the further away I shall find myself from home. You mention that the "Nix" stranded at Mauenhaken on the Swin6 river (to be pronounced Sween'ay), which occurrence is not new to me, as I saw it with my own eyes; how it happened, nobody on board seemed to be able to explain. As I told you in one of my first letters, we were almost alongside of the "Nix" and exactly op- posite the pilot's house, weighing anchor about the same time as the great steamer, which had two splendid ma- chines of about 240 horse power, enabling her to speed along rapidly until the time of the accident, which hap- pened while I was standing near the capstan watching the course of the fast moving vessel in whose wake we were cruising, when behold, she turned to right angle course, and, as the Swine near Mauenhaken is not very broad, it took but very few seconds to see her stranded upon the low, shoal-like shore. The assertion that the length of the "Nix" checked the power of the rudder is laughable, as even the largest vessel will obey the steer- ing, provided the mate attends to business and holds tight; the man at the helm of the "Nix" did his best in this respect. Many thanks for Meyhoffer's and Yogt's messages. BERLIN TO HAMBURG 45 Now let us return to the description of Hamburg and its inhabitants: The architecture of the city, taking it all iu all, is rather old-fashioned as may well be imagined, when one considers that this old Ilansatown celebrated its millen- nial existence half a century ago (1811). I have even seen mediaeval facades on many buildings which have arisen from the ashes after the great fire of 1842, which wiped nearly one hundred and forty streets and two gi- gantic church edifices, St. Nicholas' and St. Peter's, out of existence. From May 8th to the 11th, the disastrous flames raged, demanding many a human sacrifice and the loss of millions of property. The newly laid streets are wide and straight but many of the old ones which were spared during the fire are decidedly crooked and narrow, while the squares arc small. Berlin, in this respect, is ahead, liven the sidewalks are poorly paved and only such great and fashionable thoroughfares as the Jung- fernstieg, Alsterdamm, Grosse und Hohe Bleichen, Alter and Neuerwall, Herrmann and Ferdinandstrasse, Speer- sort, Schauenburgerstrasse, etc., etc., are exceptions. The grading and plastering otherwise is decidedly a credit to the municipal government and the street department in particular. The cleanliness is greatly aided by the many channels, broad and narrow, which cross the city in every direction. All streets, as well as the public buildings, have ample gas supply.* Follow me and I shall take you in imagination to the Esplanade, thence to the Alster, after which I shall close this letter, else you may be tempted to apply the yard- measure to it. But, Hamburg is interesting enough to engage one in writing letters of this length every day. One has to visit the "Esplanade" either early in the morning or late at night. Hamburg is encircled by what *Remember, kind reader, that this, as well as all the following descriptions were written long ago. Progress has since wrought wonders, for the public-spirited people of Hamburg spare no ex- pense nor trouble to make their city as attractive as possible. — Transl. 46 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE was formerly known as the ' * Def enseditch. " As this ditch had to be well planned in order to fit the difference of height between the Alster and Elbe waters, the level of the latter being much lower than that of the former, it is trnly astonishing that both depth and width of this ' ' defense ditch ' ' vary according to the height of the part of town it cuts into; and measures, in places, from forty to one hundred and twenty, at others from sixty to two hundred feet, thus resembling a river of some importance. Where the waters of this belt wash the city proper, a more or less high wall has been erected, which keeps in exact parallel with the zigzag of the ditch itself. In later years this wall has been utilized in beautifying the city. In many cases, parks of considerable beauty have thus been created. As such a picturesque chain of im- provements from Berlin Station, to the Upper Harbor, thence to the Harbor Gate, measures nearly three English miles, and appears with a width of two to seven hundred feet, you will easily imagine the impression such a sight affords to visitors. Hamburg is indeed to be envied, for, as a. matter of fact, not a city in Northern Germany can boast of such a promenade, such artistic improvements, botanical and otherwise. True, Berlin has its "Thier- garten," larger, perhaps, but it is, after all, but a tame comparison with these promenades, which end at the ' ' Stintfang, " with which I have already attempted to acquaint you. The fact*that I loiter every day in the "Esplanade" does not require special mention," as every- thing is so fresh, so green, and the happy birds sing merry spring songs; why should not man, both young and old, inhale the balmy air in long draughts? Does it sur- prise you that I roam about for hours during my en- forced stay? This is the very time of the year which our only Heine describes in his beautiful lines: "Im wunderschonen Monat Mai Als alle Knospen sprangen Da ist in meinem Herzen Die Liebe aufgegangen." BERLIN TO HAMBURG 47 (In the wonderfully beautiful month of May When all the buds are unfolding, Then Love arises in my innermost Heart.) The Jungfernstieg and Alster basins with surrounding promenades and villas have been so often described and pictured that it does not need my attempt. But one scene has not been included by traveling reporters, the fairy- like appearance at night when thousands of gaslights convert darkness into day, and envelop the crowds which take their evening strolls along the magnificent prom- enades while thousands of illuminated palaces along the Jungfernstieg and Alsterdamm are reflected upon the mirror-like dark blue waters of the Alster. This is hardly describable and 1 willingly desist from further attempts. You will probably have to burn midnight candles to fin- ish reading this letter, though you may have started early enough in the day. Next time, more. Good bye! Love, my heart's love, to all who love me! I write no names, but I have forgotten none. However, before anyone else, I kiss you, my father and mother, a thousand times, knowing full well that no one loves me like the dear ones at home. (Signed) FRANZ LECOUVREUR. Herewith an extract from a San Francisco letter: Extract. from the letter of a young merchant, E. B., dated San Francisco, January 29th, 1851: Among the papers which I lately received, there are two con- taining articles al>out California. These articles are so full of untruths that I should surely send in rejoinders, if my time would permit it. As it is, this short communication of a private nature, will have to do. The exaggerated description of the horrible attack upon Sacramento City was nothing more or less than the ordinary assembling and dispersing of a common mob. The murders and incendiary attempts mentioned are purely imaginary. As far as San Francisco is concerned the writer was not alto- 48 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE gether wrong. But if "Hell," with which the same person com- pares it, has no worse features, nor greater horrors, the poor souls of the damned will have a comparatively good time. Dante, the immortal Italian poet, describes that part of the Hereafter with quite different colorings, and, as he is said to have been there, in a trance, I suppose he is an authority in that particular, as I claim my own right to describe San Francisco as I find it. The timid author of the letters afore mentioned should also have considered the fact that it takes fully two months before the public over there sees or hears of it and that such a space of time alone is sufficient to bring about the most wonderful effects and changes, in a country like this. We have strong breezes in summer-time, yes, and occasional sand-storms but, that people are actually in danger of being enveloped by sand beyond recog- nition, is a myth. Since last October, the streets have been planked and this has therefore put almost an end to local sand- storms. The climate itself is healthy and strengthening and only he who ignores the most ordinary precautions, which every cli- mate requires, particularly of a stranger, will suffer sickness, and very -often blame the country or the people in the long run, rather than his own carelessness. As to crimes, robberies, murders, we find them the world over, even where the best organized police forces try to prevent them, why then should not a new country like this have them, where there is so much of the tough element and no pasport-revision or other means of banishment ? Gambling houses are running, it is true but, is it not likewise true that they are carrying on their nefarious work in the best regulated cities abroad? Is it only very recently that the Paris authorities re- vised the ordinances against gambling and are not our German Watering resorts afflicted with evils of a very similar nature? Or does the fact that the latter cases provide an annual income for certain princes change the criminal aspect? Well, in this country the people are the sovereign power and the profit derived from such establishments fills the pockets of the citizens who have just as much right to it as the "Princes *by the Grace of God." "Progressive education," continues the San Francisco cor- respondent, "helps to wipe out this evil and as public opinion is decidedly against it, the time is close at hand when the people will bring about a welcome change. In fact, I just read in to- *The translator wishes to remind the reader that this letter had been written in San Francisco, even before Mr. Lecouvreur's de- parture from home, and merely had been enclosed in his May letter to the latter's parents, as it contained a refutation of former publications in provincial organs, which had prejudiced the fam- ily very much against young Frank's desire to choose San Fran- cisco for his future home. BERLIN TO HAMBURG 49 day's paper that a number of citizens from 'Central Sharp Dis- trict' have signed a petition for the removal of gambling dens. If a murder occurs in such places, we need not be astonished, that the people take little notice of it, as the American does not waste many words, where he feels that it cannot mend matters. Every one knows what he has to face in such places, particularly if the luck should come his way and, if he nevertheless visits them, he will have to take his medicine in case of trouble. If I choose to enter certain establishments along the Hamburg Water- front or in any other large city, I may run the same danger, though I be in the midst of European civilization. There is quite a good deal of building going on here and solid brick structures find universal favor. Sidewalks too, are being laid ; carriages for hire are to be had at the market place and a drive about town costs five dollars. Erench shoe-blacks will give your shoes an immaculate "shine" for a suitable compensation. French and English theaters, concert halls, balls, Olympic games and circus companies offer quite a variety of amusements. There is actually talk of a gas plant, which some enterprising men ex- pect to erect before very long. Does not such a progress give us a hopeful outlook for next year? Agriculture too has its tri- umphs. We are enjoying the finest cauliflower, the best of pota- toes, turnips, cabbage and many other vegetables. But flour and butter are still imported as there is not yet enough of the local product, though it will not be long before that too, will be a part of our 'Home Industry.' " LETTER NO. Ill Hamburg, May 16, 1851. I have always maintained and, still more, have always found my convictions continued, that ships as well as human beings, often reveal their character by their out- ward appearance. To the initiated they are just like men, at times light-headed and frivolous; again serious and solemn, pleasant, sullen, melancholy, easy going, swift, clumsy, top-heavy, some, lacking in character, and other solid as a rock. In the last named category I count the "Victoria." Having ascertained at Knohr and Bur- chard's, the sbipbrokers, that this vessel, which is to carry us to the New World, was still in dock at the well-known Godefroy's Wharf, which is located on the Hanoverian side, in the village "Reiherstieg," island of Steinwerder, our curiosity became duly aroused. We hired a little sail- boat and went to examine the vessel, which was to be our floating home for many a day. The "Victoria" is a fine bark, carrying about three hundred tons; but owing to the fact that she was heavily laden and consequently deep in the water, we saw but very little of her hull. Shape and frame are just as I like to see them, well cut, broad overleaning bow, notwithstanding which the ves- sel is graceful in build, and has an evenly-running deck, without quarter. As a few planks had been temporarily removed from one of the sides, I was able to obtain a glimpse through the solid, closely set ribs. The Victoria is painted, as is customary with ocean vessels of its kind, black, with broad white trimming around the waist, in- cluding eight bulls-eyes for small cannon use on either side. The riggings are very strong and heavy, well pro- portioned, too; the sail-yards are unusually broad and give the ship almost the appearance of a man-of-war. To 50 • HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 51 be brief, I am extremely well pleased with my explora- tion. Unless appearances are absolutely deceiving, I venture to say we shall have as good a vessel during our voyage as could possibly be desired. There seems to be a scarcit} 7 of transatlantic passengers, at least to South America. So far, we three are the only ones, according to Knohr and Burchard. In mentioning the "Victoria" I cannot omit describing some harbor sights. Yesterday I saw four vessels, bound for New York, take on board their human cargo— the "Gutenberg," the "Leibnitz," the "Oder" and— the name of the fourth vessel escaped my memory. All were immense, three-masters, of at least six hundred tons each. The sight of wholesale shipment of emigrants is truly amazing and no one described it bet- ter, in fewer words, than our noble Ferdinand Freiligrath in his poem "Die Ausivanderer" (The Emigrants"*). One has only to walk along the shore for half an hour to see representatives of all German Principalities (this was fifty years ago.— Tr.) ; here he may listen to the many dialects and look wonderingly at the gay costumes, pecul- iar to the various sections of our beloved Fatherland. Men, women and children were lying, standing or loung- ing upon boxes, bundles or mattresses, waiting for the wherry-boat, which was to take them and their belong- ings on board the ship. These Hamburg wherry-boats are very numerous on the lower Elbe and serve in forwarding immense cargoes to and fro. They are indispensable for the wholesaler; and an occasional strike among the "Ewerfiihrer" or wherrymen is as much dreaded as that of the longshoremen, though they are two very distinct sets of workingmen. One ran witness such emigration scenes several times every week, though not always in as great a measure as I saw it yesterday. The reason for this is that the influx of emigrants is the largest about the beginning and middle of the month. There were at least eight or nine hundred people shipped yesterday, as it *This poet is the Longfellow of Germany, whose "Hiawatha" and other poems he so beautifull} translated'. — J. C. B, 52 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE was said that all four vessels were well crowded, not only with German people, but with large numbers of Slavoni- ans, Austrians and Scandinavians in their picturesque at- tire. During the first days of this week, there embarked a large number of Schleswig-Holstein soldiers, who had been enlisted for Brazil; they sailed for Rio de Janeiro on the Hamburg bark "The Colonist." What a tribe! I would not have trusted my corpse to be shipped with them. Such specimens of humanity !— ragged, drunk, day after day, with but a very few honorable exceptions. With two hundred and ten of these fellows on board of the "Colonist," which, at the most, can hold but three hundred tons of cargo (sixty English tons), you may fancy how those poor fellows were crowded together. This first expedition is soon to be followed by another one from Altona on Godefroy's "Caesar," a vessel of about twice the capacity of the "Colonist," and which is to take four hundred ' ' impressed soldiers. " It is said that the government has put a stop to foreign enlistments and, indeed, one does not see quite as many of these fel- lows, who are easily recognized by their ragged appear- ance, with the Brazilian colors, red, yellow and green, displayed on their straw hats, and the loud noise they make in roaming about the streets. I have just returned from a walk along the harbor. At the "Baumthor" I witnessed the departure of a bark, which was likewise filled with the same class of "Brazil- ians." All were joyful and apparently contented, while I felt overcome by sadness. When the sails began to fill the vessel slowly glided down the river; all joined in the familiar German folksong: " When I come, when I come, when I come home again, I shall call, sweetheart, on thee!" Poor fellows, will any of you ever return to see your sweethearts? True, nobody who goes out in search of a new home, can answer that question. Happy he who does it in a joyful frame of mind. Toward evening there arrived the German man-of-war "Ernest August" from Bremen, a magnificent vessel of unusual size. Both HAMBURG: GENERAL IMTRESSIONS 53 masts, being rigged like schooners, overtowered many a handsome three-master. The German flag, with the eagle in golden field, waved bravely in the air. May it be hon- ored everywhere as on this proud steamer! Unfortunate- ly I received bad news on the arrival of the " Ernest Au- gust," news which had a depressing effect upon me. Re- membering that Fritz Benefeld had served on board of this vessel, I inquired after him and heard from one of the cadets that he has contracted dropsy in the chest, and little hope is entertained for his recovery. He was left in good care at Bremen. Too bad, he was a brave, good fellow! However, I, too, am said to be a brave good fel- low, and shall have to die some day, nevertheless! May 17, 1851. During the whole of last week we have enjoyed unin- terruptedly the most beautiful weather, which added greatly to our pleasure during a number of little excur- sions into the outskirts of Hamburg. Unfortunately one 1 is to limit one's time as the closing of the city gates at stated hours of night prevents the enjoyment of an ex- tended recreation.* Last Sunday, for instance, we walked across the so-called "Hamburg Mountain" to Altona and thence to Ottensen. When leaving the inner city by the Millerngate, one is confronted by an im- mense lawn, the walks of which are lined with beautiful trees on either side; the center is cut by a fine, broad avenue, which, as you approach Saint Pauli, is adorned with nice new residences, and leads directly into the main thoroughfare of the above mentioned suburb. This street is called the Eeeperbahn, which name is the Low German for rope-makers' alley, said tradesmen having formerly occupied these parts and some of their long narrow work- shops, which resemble modern bowling alleys, are still shown in the neighborhood. This avenue, which, as I said before, runs from the Millernthor to the Eeeper- bahn, is called "Hamburger Berg," though one can hard- *The wall and the gates are no more in existence, though the old names still mark the respective places, — Transl, 54 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE ly distinguish it on a week day from any ordinary large square in other cities. But the "Hamburger Berg" on Sundays is well worth seeing. Fancy to yourself the wildest noise, such as you hear in county fairs in small towns, only twenty or thirty times worse, with crowds corresponding to the noise and you will obtain a fairly good picture of the scene, which enlivens the "Hambur- ger Berg" on Sunday afternoons. Everything to be seen and heard, as long as there is money in circulation. There are: Penny museums, acrobats, menageries, dancing bears, monkeys on hand-organs, manipulated by Italians, who have trained the little animals to present a cup for col- s lection of stray pennies; organs of all kinds, dimensions and sounds; harp players of either sex, and in their re- spective national garbs; merry-go-rounds; wild men from Borneo and close-by realms; Punch and Judy shows, and thousands of other things. Between the tents there are tables, filled with southern fruits and sweets, at astonish- ingly low prices. Italian oranges are exhibited on these occasions in marvelous quantities. Thousands and thou- sands of people, representing all nations and classes of humanity crowd the walks, eating, drinking, smoking, merry-making. Most sight-seers are seafaring men, sol- diers, servant girls in their odd Hamburg style of dress- ing; the ever present, ever shouting, ever drumming, trumpeting, whistling, happy Hamburger boys are not to be forgotten; their number is legion, their watchword: fun. After one has taken in all the sights and side-show wonders of the "Hamburger Berg" one arrives at St. Pauli proper, which is the most notorious suburb of the metropolis. This notoriety, however, fits only that part of the locality where sailors, ferry-men (Ewerftihrer) and the rougher shore and saloon element have their abodes and stamping grounds. The upper St. Pauli has nice, respectable, well populated streets, which show lit- tle life on work days, a strange fact, which all suburbs of Hamburg seem to have in common, as the only parts which are populated during working hours are the busi- ness quarters, the exchange and the water front, where HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 55 the world's commerce is enacted par excellence. The border line between St. Pauli and the adjoining city of Altona is marked by a ditch six to eight feet wide, the odor of which suggested a change to the least sensitive. Unless one pays special attention, the entry into Hostein territory is scarcely noticeable; the streets run right through, and the style of building seems to indicate no special change, so that the aforementioned ditch and, per- haps, the change of names of the thoroughfares, consti- tute the only landmark. Altona, meaning " too-near-by, ' ' is built in the same style as the old Hansatown. Its exist- ence is the outcome of a bet between rival merchants of Hamburg. The streets are mostly crooked and narrow, the houses old-fashioned, tall, gloomy, each one of them brings to my mind the ghost of some petrified mayor or burgomaster, or senator, caused, I presume, by the abun- dance of rare old sculpture and relief work which adorns the facades. There are, of course, a few real nice streets and places, the Pallmaille, being the most noteworthy on accoimt of its width, which admits of four avenues, adorned with linden trees. Magnificent residences at- tract the eye on either side of this beautiful thoroughfare and remind one of the celebrated "Unter den Linden" in Berlin. The monument of Conrad von Bliicher, sec- end cousin to the immortal General Blucher-Wahlstadt, is another ornament of Pallmaille; in him the inhab- itants have honored one of their noblest citizens. The immense steam levers at the freight section of the large station of the Altona-Kiel Kail road aroused my interest greatly. The station is well located on the high bank of the river Elbe and the aforementioned steam levers lift from a hundred and fifty to two hundred weight with an ease and a. rapidity that is truly astonishing. It takes but two minutes to raise such loads and place them wherever wanted. These levers are constantly at work and well worth watching; they operate even at night when business is brisk. Passing the railroad station, one immediately enters the village of Ottensen, just as un- suspectingly as is the crossing of the Hamburg-Altona 56 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE border. In the middle of this village stands the church, surrounded as is customary in our own villages of East Prussia, by the churchyard. Ottensen has three cele- brated graves, beautifully described in Friedrich Ruck- ert's poem: "The Graves at Ottensen." The first one is marked by a simple stone; it is located close to the church and seldom without flowers, which his countrymen and foreign pilgrims lovingly place upon the last resting place of one of Germany's greatest poets, F. G. Klopstock, the author of the "Messiah." The second grave of note, much larger, but just as unpretentious, is a sad reminder of the cruelties of war. In 1813, when Napoleon's most heartless general, Marshal Louis Nicolas Davoust, Duke of Auerstadt, Prince of Eckmuhl compelled General Tettenborn (a German commander in temporary service of Eussia) to vacate Hamburg, he imposed a fine of forty- eight million marks upon the city and crowned his god- less work by driving thirty thousand poor from their homes and out of the city during the ice cold Christmas night, while some of his hordes set fire to that quarter of the town, just vacated, after appropriating the little they could use. A holocaust of eleven hundred persons, mostly aged or very young, who were unable to with- stand starvation, cold and sickness, were found dead or dying on Christmas day in the fields near Ottensen, while the church bells were announcing the coming of the Sa- vior! And the remains of these victims are mostly bur- ied in this simple spot of gentle, all-embracing mother earth.* *A recent article stated that the descendants of Marshal Da- voust were endeavoring to fasten the responsibility for the above- mentioned crime upon subordinates, and circumstances beyond his control. To them and such as they, the prophecy of Ruckert is addressed in words like these : "In this grave lie buried a generation nigh, "Who from their silent chamber to the God of Justice cry, "They call for help from Heaven, "Out of their humble grave, "To Him, Who loves the lowly "And frowns upon the knave." — Transl, HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 57 Close to the wall of the little church one finds the third grave. Little is left of the humble tablet which once bore the name of the silent dweller, Charles William Ferdi- nand, Duke of Brunswick, who had been a true successor of the long line of noble rulers, and who had proven his great valor and love of country by laying down his life in the battle of Auerstadt, in which the infamous Davoust won for himself the title of "Duke." Strange coinci- dent! The noble Brunswick, wounded unto death, was taken to Ottensen, to find his future resting place, in the same village graveyard, where the victims of Davoust 's Christinas holocaust were to share his fate, seven years later. Leaving this memorable spot, we do not find much time for meditation as the close-by "Rainville" soon con- vinces the stroller, that things are yet very much alive in Ottensen. Rainville is a favorite pleasure resort for Hamburg and Altona working people. It is built in ter- races on the high bank of the Elbe, and consequently of- fers a beautiful view of the Hanoverian mountains, which adorn the opposite shore. Eainville is particularly well patronized on Sundays, on account of the delightful con- certs, which draw the music-loving middle class. Last Sunday, for instance, a band of fifty musicians from the Italian Infantry Regiment, Wellington, enraptured the hearers. "What music! Not until then did I realize how dances, especially waltzes, ought to be played. The Aus- trian bands, for instance, play hardly anything else, though occasionally they give a march and more rarely an easy selection from some favorite opera. However, no matter what their program may call for, they play their parts well. Difficult compositions are not chosen, pre- sumably because the musicians realize that their audience here would not fully appreciate such efforts. This is true in most cases, where, as in Rainville, the audience is ex- ceptionally large. Everybody seems to give the Italians the preference over their rivals. "We remained last Sun- day several hours in Rainville, as I could neither sat- isfy my longing for the beautiful views which it offers, 58 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEX GATE nor did I tire of listening to the beautiful, lively music, notwithstanding that the Austrians had their turn this time. Toward evening we returned to our dwelling place by the way of the picturesque suburb of Eimsbiittel. Hamburg, May 18th, 1851. Such a walk as I took a week ago and which I endeav- ored to describe to you in my letter of the day before yes- terday, offers much diversion and much food for thought- ful minds. Whenever the Hamburg weather is favorable on Sunday afternoons, one can see all Hamburg on foot, to inhale a breath of fresh, country air, or of the sea breeze, in one or another resort. Of course, one has to be a good sprinter to get the full benefit, as it includes often miles of walking upon stony sidewalks before he reaches the country roads. Those who have carriages at their disposal are, of course, at an advantage. All hotels, inns, coffee gardens, beer gardens, from the most select to the poor man's resorts, are crowded with hu- manity, though the number of such country resorts is truly amazing. Everywhere is music, from grand or- chestra concerts, to plain dancing hall music, and the Hamburg people do love to dance, so much so, that I be- lieve they would feel very much out of place where music and dancing are not at least a part of the program. The dances are the ever present, unavoidable gallop and the so-called Ehinelander or Polish Radowaczka, in which the merry-makers constantly change position from right to left— which is certainly very amusing to look upon, as most of these people know quite well how to dance. Let it be understood, however, that the dancing public varies in the matter of etiquette and manners, according to the resort they frequent, though it struck me very peculiarly that the women dancers seem to be less particular whether they dressed in silks and satin, or in the plain cotton of the farm hand: girls as well as boys are em- ployed on German farms and work in harmony; they are simply all out for a good time, caring little for ceremony and etiquette. The fact that most of them address each HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 59 other with the familiar "thou" characterizes the free and easy spirit which prevails during these Sunday after- noons. One thing has surprised me especially: the ele- gance and luxury with which places of public amuse- ments are fitted up; I am at a loss to describe them, as what I witnessed in Berlin does not begin to approach them. This is not only true of the larger establishments, such as the Tonhalle, Appollo-Saal and many others, but even ordinary beer and wine resorts everywhere abound in luxury. The gardens have generally long rows of beautiful arbors of choicest climbers, often costly impor- tations from foreign lands. These arbors are so arranged that each division has its table around which green benches complete the furniture, inviting the visitors and their friends to a pleasant rendezvous, be it en famille or otherwise. And it is in just such places where the tired clerks and storekeepers, as well as others, meet to talk shop, or more likely to divert themselves in various ways as inclination may suggest. These beer gardens are seldom peopled in day time— except Sundays— but by eight o'clock in the evening you will find every one of them crowded, and merry laughter fills the air. The inner halls of these resorts are mostly well frescoed or elegantly draped and papered. Be it said to the credit of the Hamburg people that they are very moderate in the use of alcoholic drinks. One may sit for hours with the same glass of beer and a cigar, while enjoying a pleas ant chat with a neighbor. Though there happen to be nearly thirty thousand Austrian soldiers in and near tin' city, one seldom sees them mix with citizens or partici- pate in public frolics; if they do, their presence always marks modesty and politeness and twenty Austrian offi- cers do not make nearly as much noise as four Prussian ensigns. It consequently does not surprise me that the Austrians enjoy a better reputation in Hamburg than the Prussians, who are not at all liked here.* *This statement is absolutely true, for the reason that the plain, cosmopolitan-spirited Hamburger cannot and will not bar- GO EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE May 19th, 1851. The most beautiful flower in the wreath of villages and beauty spots which surround this eity of many attrac- tions, is Blankenese, whither I went a week ago to-day. The banks of the Elbe from and below Altona resemble in character the ocean beaches, and if I were to make a comparison with our home coast I should choose a spot near Neukuren, where the little birch forest runs seem- ingly into the ocean, including the sea-bordered land- scape near AVanger-Spitze. At the end of two hours of walk below Altona, the beach forms a small bay, more picturesque and higher than I have ever seen, in the midst of which a sharp eye may discover a miniature valley, from the middle of which arises, on terrace-shaped walls, the beautiful vil- lage of Blankenese. Every house, every hut and barn lies either in the midst of pretty floral display, or is al- most hidden by aged, wide-spreading trees. The terraces make the laying out of streets superfluous, but here and there one finds stairways facilitating access to the dwell- ings. No matter whether one approaches Blankenese from the shore or from the inland road, the same over- powering scene awaits the visitor; and strange, indeed, is the variation that greets the eye on every step. Here nature is powerfully fascinating; one moment the view of the village is completely hidden by a chestnut grove, while in the next linden, acom or fir trees barely permit a glimpse of the sun-kissed waters of the Elbe and the mountain chain beyond, which appear to guard the king- dom of Hanover. Blankenese has the appearance of a mighty gatekeeper or sentinel at the mouth of the Elbe. On the top of the elevation is the famous old Inn sur- rounded by a beautifully laid out garden, from which point one can view the rich Holstein farm lands for miles, and watch the peaceful herds enjoying the fresh green monize with anyone, who assumes to be "better than thou" on every occasion. It is, however, truly surprising that the young traveller should have been keen enough to observe it during his very short stay in the Hansatown. — Transl. HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 61 pastures. A turn upon your heel and the scene has changed from Nature's own garden to the ship-laden waters of the Elbe with another view upon Hanoverian plains, dimly visible in the "Far West." The road from Ottensen to Blankenese, in itself is worth a good tramp. The long line of magnificent residences, with their finely- planned gardens, of wealthy Hamburg merchants, de- light the eye on either side of the Boulevard, for such it is in reality. The stately carriages, with their uniformed attendants, ever ready to do the bidding of their aristo- cratic masters, are part of the scene, which is particularly enchanting wherever a glimpse upon the waves of the river is to be had, or where the high hedge of hawthorn, which hems in the greater part of the Eastern side of the road, permits a glance upon the afore-described rural scenes of Holstein. Though I have tramped considerably through these parts, I have not discovered any portion of land on which grain had been raised. One only finds squares of twelve to fifteen hundred feet of pasture, each square marked by a formidable hedge. I passed several hours upon the Sullberg watching the ebb tide, which slowly compelled every vessel upon the river to stop its course for a certain time. One by one, schooners, ferry- boats, fishing smacks, even little pleasure seekers, which but a few minutes ago enjoyed the gentle rocking of the waves, were compelled to obey the law of Nature, which makes it almost possible for a man to wade through the river bottom, i. e., near the shore. Not the slightest breeze could be felt. Here and there, from more or less distant chimneys arose small columns of smoke; now and then it conveyed the odor of fried fish and potatoes, which reminded me of the approaching night. The moist sand along the bank was too inviting to be overlooked, and so I chose it for my return route to the city. Deeper and deeper went the setting sun with its brilliant colors, beau- tifying the small clouds on the azure sky, and recalling to my mind the words of Galileo: "And yet it move-." After a while T seated myself upon a large stone, watch- ing tiny waves disappearing in the sand; the windows of 63 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE the little fishermen's huts shone reddish from across the river, until one after the other apparently lost its bril- liancy and slowly disappeared entirely from my horizon. The shadows grew until the last glimmer of the setting sun kissed the tree tops a hearty farewell — altogether a scene beautiful to behold. Soon all had become a thing of the past, a mere remembrance. The opposite hills grew darker and difficult to recognize. The air was pure and refreshing and so quiet that I sometimes fancied I heard the ringing of bells such as cows carry when out in pasture. Everything was quiet and peaceful around me, while I was writing in the ocean-sand the names of my beloved ones in the far away home. First yours, father, then mother's, then the name of my beloved Marie, not forgetting Maurice close by. When I had finished my dream, I continued my tramp homeward, my pathway being illumined by the silvery moonlight, while a thin white fog commenced to veil the rural scenes across the river. It was late. "When I reached ,the gate it was closed, which meant a fine of four Hamburg shillings! That was certainly a damper to my sentimental cogita- tions. What business does a reputable merchant's clerk have to sit dreaming upon a stone and write names in the sands of the Elbe, making thereby a fool of himself? Fine: four shillings in Hamburg currency! May 19th, p. m. During the three weeks which I have been compelled to spend here there has been a fire and a flood. The fire occurred one night last week and devoured four or five houses on "Kehrwieder.'.'* * Such fires are not consid- *Translator's "note.— The old Kehrwieder was a typical tene- ment district on the waterfront, inhabited exclusively by long- shoremen and water-rats, as the thousands of wherry-men are called in Hamburg dialect. This neighborhood is now part of the magnificent "bonded ware-house district" called "Freihafen," where foreign importations may be stored as "transient," escap- ing thereby whatever duty they may be subject to, provided the transfer to other parts occurs within a given time. HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 63 ered very important, though it generally means a loss of one or two houses, notwithstanding the excellent working of the local fire department, and the fact that there is an abundance of water everywhere in the numberless channels which are winding their often crooked way through the thoroughfares of the Hansatown. As for the relief work of the fire department, it is done most con- scientiously. I counted no less than twenty-two hose services, supplied by as many pumps, which were well handled by strong men and not as at home, by half-grown hoys. Taking all that into consideration, the cause for the rapid spread of the fire can only be found in the mis- erable construction of the tenements themselves, which are mostly so crooked, so high, and in the meantime so given to decay, that the term "fire-traps" would never be more appropriately applied.* A real fire alarm, such as causes the whole population of Konigsberg to turn out at the burning of a barn, is unknown here. The first alarm signal in this city is given by more or less shots from an artillery cannon on the Dammthorwall gate; the number of shots fired indicates the degree of seriousness. The immediate neighborhood in which a fire occurs re- ceives warning from the permanent tower guard of the church in the vicinity or parish, in which it happens. These guards reside in the church steeples, two or three hundred feet from the ground. During the conflagration of May 5, 6, 7 and 8, 1S42, there occurred a remarkable incident: The large church of St. Nicholas (Nicolai- kii'che), one of the five gigantic Lutheran edifices, had taken fire and no possible aid could prevent its doom. While the flames were approaching the magnificent *The translator remembers having seen tenement houses in that very district, which harbored one hundred and twenty to one hundred and fifty families each, on a lot of about 45 by 125 feet. Jacob A. Liis in his world-famous books "The Making of an American," "Giildren of Tenements," and "Battle with the Slum," as well as, "1 low the < Hher Half Lives," has not exagger- ated the deplorable state of affairs, which originated in Europe and of which rich old Hamburg has unfortunatelv her share. 64 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE tower, all eyes were riveted upon the well-known balcony from which the faithful guard (Thurmhiiter) had sound- ed the tocsin, or, at nine o 'clock, played nightly the mel- ody of some well-known hymn for many a year. Word had been sent up that his life was in danger, but to no avail. He watched the progress of the destructive ele- ment and when the heat of the flames and the smoke became too intense, in other words, when the falling of the tower and his certain death were but a question of minutes, he once more raised his trumpet to his mouth and sounded the famous old hymn: "Em' feste Burg ist unser Gott!" (A solid tower is our God!) Hardly had he finished when the earthly tower, which had given him shelter for so many years, fell with a crash, burying its last and noblest guard under its ruins, a martyr to duty. No Hamburg native speaks of that conflagration without honoring the memory of the greatest hero of that disas- ter, by relating these facts. To return to our thread: Tolling the district fire-bell in daytime is supplemented at night by the patrolman's horn and his very measured shouts of: Fire! fire! fire!— "Kehrwedder," or announc- ing whatever neighborhood of the district may be endan- gered. As mostly natives apply for the positions of patrolmen, these notices are generally given in low Ger- man, a typical "Hamburger Plattdutsch." The more unruly the element, the oftener one hears the tolling and the announcements. During the Kehrwieder fire, for in- stance, I counted fifteen of those much dreaded alarms. There is as little commotion noticeable among the inhab- itants during a storm flood, as in time of fire, three can- non shots, in rapid succession, announce the impending- danger. As long as the flood does not rise too high the numerous water gates (being closed at the sound of alarm) protect the city from invasion, which threatens especially the inhabitants of the cellars, who are mostly small dealers in vegetables, liquors or small goods, with here and there a cheap restaurant. The real danger arises when the water rushes over the tops of the water- gates, which is said to be a rare occurrence; when it does HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSION'S 65 happen, however, most cellars of the old city become uninhabitable, and one sees every portable piece of prop- erty piled up along the sidewalks, all of which is but the work of a few minutes, as the second and third alarm, suffices to put the cellar-dwellers on their guard. The Bight, particularly when it happens at night time, is often heartrending; imagine distracted citizens, sick or well, old or young, with babies in arms, driven into the street during an icy winter night. Fortunately, even this con- dition is looked upon by the long-suffering people as an unavoidable evil, and is therefore taken philosophically. These floods, aside from the great inconveniences just described, leave always an army of rats and other unwel- come guests behind, with which all seaports are more or less infested. Fire and water remind me of an extremely practical though very expensive arrangement. Here and there the visitor observes in the middle of the street a funnel- shaped opening about three feet in diameter, which leads into an immense out-fall sewer, the building of which has cost the city millions of marks. These sewer chan- nels are six feet deep and four feet wide and form a well- laid sewer system, extending throughout the city, having for its only object the removal of sewage from the houses and streets to the Elbe. This system was introduced by an English engineer shortly after the conflagration of 1842. An obstruction of this sewer has never occurred so far, and strange as it may seem, the city has never had a cent's worth of repairs on this sewer since the opening nearly ten years ago. The cause may be found in the spacious and solidly built channels, which are thoroughly cleaned by flushing, at least once a month. This clean- ing is done by opening a single water gate of the Outer- Alster, whereupon the water rushes with a thundering roar into the subterraneous tunnel-like conduits, remov- ing thereby every particle of garbage and refuse in a very few hours, as if thousands of shovels and brooms had been at work. To give you a more exact estimate of the power with which the water removes all sewage, the 5 66 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE final triumphal experiment of the engineer may be related: When his last inspection had satisfied his own expectations, he invited the Senators of Hamburg to wit- ness a public exhibition of his magnificent success. Marked rocks of about three hundredweight each were thrown into the sewer at different points, to test the force of the rushing water, and behold every one of those rocks disappeared and was afterwards discovered at the outlets of the respective conduits; not one had remained in its place. At stated times visitors may inspect the system, and even royal visitors are counted among the eager spec- tators. But let this be enough for to-night. The evening is so beautiful that I am tempted to go out for a walk through the city. May 21st, 1851. Somehow I cannot tear myself away from this letter and no matter how often I decide to take it to the post- office I change my mind to add one or the other thought which just happens to cross it. It gives me such inex- pressible pleasure to chat with my beloved ones for half an hour, when and wherever I feel like it, to tell them whatever I may have seen, heard or experienced. Yes- terday I took a walk along the famous Jungfernstieg (Old Maid's Path) toward the Alster-Arcades, after hav- ing enjoyed a cup of coffee at the Pavilion. When I was about to turn into the Grosse Bleichen there appeared suddenly a strange procession of still stranger figures, clothed in the costumes of buried centuries. I thought I was dreaming until I became convinced that it was a reality, that I had a living, though mediaeval picture before me. Two by two, with measured step, they turn around the corner, where Grote-Ipmato's cigar store is located. Solemn as their walk was their whole appear- ance, reminding one of Heinrich Heine's "Men of darkened mien and mantle Spanish ruffles 'round their necks, Dangling sabers, long drawn faces," etc. HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 67 Tliey looked just as the great lyric poet described them. Well! I thought the king's down had bitten me ( a Ger- man idiom reminding one of Charles Dickens': "I'll eat my head"), when the whole proved to be a— funeral pro- cession! These strangely attired figures which passed be- fore me were Hamburg coffin-bearers, who, as I after- wards learned, form a very select guild. Their costumes are too uncommon to omit, as you will surely appreciate the description. These men, to begin with, wear highly polished shoes with satin rosettes about as large as a medium sized saucer, their nether extremities are hidden in velvet knee breeches, and long black silk stockings, attached to the former by immense silver buckles, all of which, if intended to hide the crooked limbs— for all those coffin-bearers had crooked limbs and no calves— 4 fail in their purpose. Next comes the waistcoat of black broad-cloth, with ungainly but snow-white cuffs, cover- ing part of the hands, while broad ruffled collars of spot- less linen encircle the long necks of the bony wearer, making the head appear like that of St. John the Bap- tist, presented upon a plate or like a ball of nine-pins placed upon a mill-stone. From their shoulders falls a short Spanish cloak, and the hair— if they have any— is carefully hidden under a snow-white wig, the principal ornament of which, consists of two well tallowed and twisted curls on either side of the lengthy face. But I must not forget the sword which fits this professional pall-bearer as a cat's tail would fit a duck. Having read this true description of a Hamburg coffin- bearer, place yourself in my position, and tell me if it is not enough to make one's hair stand up straight, when, being a stranger, after reading the "National Gazette" or the "Fliegende Blatter" (Flying Leaves, Germany's best humoristic paper), while enjoying a cup of coffee at the Pavilion, one strolls aimlessly along the Jungfern- stieg, meaning no harm but glancing admiringly, or other- wise, at the latest Parisian styles for fashionable folks, one is suddenly confronted by such an apparition. One is carried bark — nolens volens— to the sixteenth century. It actually stunned me. 68 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Aiiotlier body of men curious to look upon is the local militia or "citizens' guard," as they are commonly called. It would do your heart good to see them. They are most- ly tradesmen and artisans, tailors, glove-makers, etc. They are indeed comical figures ; conspicuous among them are the officers of this self-appointed soldiery. The uni- forms, too, are as odd as their wearers, and funny; to look upon. Long blue coats with blue velvet collars and cuffs, white leather belts and helmets (rather "czakos," pro- nounced tshaccoes, a semi-Russian head-gear), both such as our Prussian army were wont to wear in by-gone years. The genuine Hamburg soldier, however, is uniformed after the new Prussian army outfit with the exception of the dark green coats, while the helmets bear the Ham- burg coat-of-arms— three towers— instead of the Prus- sian eagle. These militiamen exercise regularly in a large field called the "Biirgerweide" (i. e., citizen's pas- ture), which is located just outside of the Dammthor. The whole is looked upon by progressive Hamburgers as a relic of the past, which like many others will soon van- ish entirely. The history of Hamburg, called Hamburgensien, is said to be full of remarkably interesting incidents, and has been made the subject of special study by several renowned scholars, among whom, Dr. Otto Beneke, the author of Hamburgische Geschichten und Sagen (Ham- burg Tales and Legends), and the lecturer, Dr. Rudiger, have endeared themselves particularly to the native Ilanseatic. The most remarkable one of the first named tales and legends is the "authentic visit" of Ahasuerus, the wandering Jew, who is said to have visited Hamburg during the winter of 1547, which was his very first ap- pearance in Europe. The chronicle describes him as of tall, bony figure, poorly clad and of decidedly foreign look and mien; he wore a long white beard, and though apparently not more than fifty years of age, his long hair, too, was snowy white. He was exemplary in his de- meanor and edified the worshippers in the house of God. A young theologian, Paul von Eitzen, undertook to in- HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 69 terview this strange man, and obtained the following ac- count: Ahasuems by name, and shoemaker by profes- sion, he had already been living at the time of Christ in the city of Jerusalem, his native place. Like most of his fellow-men, he had mistaken Jesus for a sectarian and a revolutionist and, in unison with many others, had de- manded the crucifixion of the Master. AVhen the proces- sion, headed for Calvary, passed his house, he, Ahasuerus, refused the suffering Savior even a moment's rest, driv- ing him off in a rude manner so as to be esteemed for his cruelty by the Pharisees. Then the Christ, lookly sadly at the infuriated Jew, spake these words: "I only wished to rest a while, but thou hast refused me, wherefore thou shalt wander upon earth until the day of judgment com- eth." After hearing these words, he felt an indescribable longing to witness the crucifixion, during which he ex- perienced so great a change of heart that, repenting his deed, he left Jerusalem to do penance for his sins and has been homeless ever since, a living warning to all unbelievers and scoffers and destined to become a living witness against the Jews on the last day. He suddenly disappeared and visited this city but once more, says the chronicle, and that was in A. D. 1606. May 22nd, 1851. Yesterday afternoon I met Vogt from Konigsberg and Rudolph Ehlert as well as one Kullack, ex-lieutenant of the Schleswig-Holstein army, with whom I spent a very pleasant evening in the Walhalla, a delightful resort on the Outer-Alster-Basin, where good concerts and moder- ately reasonable priced refreshments help one to forget the time. Sommerfeld is rooming at the same hotel that I am, just two rooms from me. He is awaiting money, like so many other Schleswig-Holstein officers, every one of whom expects to emigrate to America sooner or later. Many of these poor fellows are really stranded bnt man- age in some way to take life easy, true to the oM Saxo- nian saying: 70 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE "Man muss das Leben eben nehmen, Wie's Leben eben ist." (One should take life just, as life just is.) Tlie local beer-gardens and saloons have attractions for the new-comer which are not to be found in Konigs- berg. Nobody seems to be surprised to hear English, Danish or Spanish spoken at one and the same table. Not even a head turns unless it be that of a stranger, like myself. I mostly spend my evenings at Diedrichs, townsman from Elbing, who has done Olias and me many a favor. It was there where I met a Turk the other night, who only spoke a few words of broken English outside of his mother tongue, but he got his beefsteak, played a game of billiards and went away again without re- ceiving any more attention than other guests. People who have travelled for years in foreign lands, in America, Africa, etc., speak of their experiences as if they were every-day occurrences, and if any guest within hearing distance tries to listen, depend upon it he is not a Ham- burger. It has already happened to me on different occa- sions to speak German to one and English to another table companion, an easy matter when you become used to it. There are quite a number of Konigsberg and other East-Prussians in this city. I meet many old acquain- tances, most of whom will leave sooner or later for for- eign lands. And rnarvelously good it seems to a fellow to shake hands once more with one you have known — back home — sometimes only a mere sight acquaintance. Thus I met Grafe, son of the book-dealer, who intends going to Venice in a few weeks. Voss, who is bound for Liverpool in search of a living. Both were schoolmates of mine. Briihl also is about to set out for America, i. e., Milwaukee via New York. One thing more that you will appreciate. Seeing my prospective needs, I shall now begin in earnest with the study of the Spanish language and have consequently purchased Franceson's Dictionary HAMBURG: GENERAL IMPRESSIONS 71 and an excelleni grammar by Jos.' Eusebio Gomez de Mier, both upon friend Grafe's recommendation, who is now employed in a local hook-store.* Grafe and others assure me that the 1 Spanish Language is very easily mastered by one who is studying not mere- ly for pastime but Tor a purpose. The whole construc- tion resembles the French and the irregularities are said to be much better classified and less subject to excep- tions. Thus I hope to make good headway, though self- instruction is said to be of slow progress. Where there is a will there is a way. Time will surely not fail me during my long trip. It just occurs to me that there still remains a bit of Bertha's curiosity to be satisfied. Tell her that the "glass-street" which she has heard others mention is not altogether a myth, but looks different from what the sound of the word would suggest. One finds here out- side of regular thoroughfares -by land and water— quite a number of passages for pedestrians only. These are intended to facilitate communications in large blocks and are, in reality, tunnels within said blocks, having the ap- pearances of streets, with stores, cafe's, etc., which gener- ally receive their light through immense arched transoms which top the sides of these tunnels. They are called passages, for instance, the Exchange, Arcade, Praetz- nian's and many other passages. The Hotel de liussie on the Jungfernstieg is thus tunneled, having a glass bridge transom that measures ninety by three hundred and fifty or more feet, so that this immense opening in the five-story building looks at the first glance like a large hall, the sides of which with their finely polished plate-glass windows give the whole — particularly when *The memory of Gomez de Mier is still cherished by many who have been benefited by his teachings as has the translator. A noble soul, who devoted his busy life to the service of his own native land by increasing its foreign commercial interests and thereby cementing the union between two -'"eat nations, yea hem- ispheres. Prof. De Mier spent many of his best years in I lam- burg, where, as he expressed it, every foreigner feels at home. n EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE lighted— the appearance of a glass-arcade. This, then, must be the street referred to. It is called "Alster Arcade. ' ' I close right here, in order not to run the risk of tiring you, my beloved ones, with this almost endless letter. Before going on board I shall doubtless write once more. Meantime I send thousands of most heartfelt greetings to all who bear me love. Most affectionately (Signed) FRANZ. Pardon the translator a few words in defence of his native place, i. e., as far as St. Pauli and its manifold pleasures are con- cerned, which some American readers may want to criticise. The grand old Hansatown is a cosmopolitan seaport — eleven hundred years old — of a set character ; St. Pauli is, as the author already stated, the center of pleasure-seeking foreigners, mostly sailors and visiting farm-hands. There the native Hamburger is very much in the minority. — Germans drink their beverage as such, but never otherwise. If therefore you think or hear of excesses, treat them as exceptions if — which is rarely true — they can be laid to the door of a native. The Northern German especially, despises intemperance, though very few are total abstainers. — J. C. B. Transl. LETTER NO. IV On Board of Bark Victoria, off Hamburg, near Gliick- stadt. June 6th, 1851. My Beloved Ones:— Floating at last! I have been on board the " Victoria" since the second of this month, though we did not leave the Hamburg harbor until a quarter to six yesterday afternoon. I am informed that there are fifty-seven steerage passengers and six cabin passengers on board; of all these only ten are bound for San Francisco, the others will stop at Valdivia or Val- paraiso. My first impression of my fellow-passengers leads me to believe that I struck a very companionable crowd. There are some from Wiirtemberg, Baden, Hesse, Saxony and comparatively few from Prussia. As I ex- pected they are mostly good middle-class men of some education. "We have also a few women and children on board. There is already a certain spirit of harmony among the passengers, which seems to increase as the hours roll by. Among the cabin passengers we count a Dr. Donner— member of one of the oldest and most re- spected of Hamburg families— who is booked for Val- divia. Of course we do not know each other by name just yet, but it strikes me that the way to mutual appre- ciation is being paved rapidly, as every one on board is seemingly bont upon studying how he can contribute to that harmony and happy condition, which are so desira- ble on a long and uncertain voyage like ours. As our staunch vessel had previously attracted my attention, so now do the passengers seem to add to the contentment T feel on board the ship. The crew also is well chosen. There are seventeen of them: The captain, first and sec- ond mate, carpenter, cook, eight experienced and two younger tars; also two apprentices. A fine body. 73 U EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Our table arrangement is very simple About half- past six in the morning each one of us steerage-passen- gers gets two quarts of coffee; at twelve o'clock, dinner, and at six in the evening, tea, about as much as coffee. At present fresh bread and butter is given morning and evening, which will later be substituted by so-called " ship's zweiback" and butter, as much as we care to eat. We agreed to take our turns, i. e., one person for every two cabins undertakes to go after the supply for a week, divides and distributes the portions and does the dish- washing for the time being — one week. The steerage cabins are really arranged for four persons, but have hardly more than half the number of occupants this trip. As previously mentioned, we left the Hamburg harbor at about six o'clock last evening from the neighborhood of the English Reformed Church, a large but very plain edifice. A few friends— old and new — spent the evening on board with us, and I assure you their visit will ever be remembered, as a few kind wishes, a live hand-shake, a "God be with you" on the eve of a long voyage to an unknown land and an uncertain fate, go far to overcome that awful feeling of loneliness which even the bravest of us would otherwise have experienced. Bartsch, Kirsch- stein, Diedrich and Fritz Griinhagen, I thank them for this favor. You will probably have received my letter of the first, which was wholly personal. Sister will be interested to know how I fitted myself for the trip. Last Friday I went to one of the many ship-chandlers where one can buy from a. stick-pin to a complete sea-faring outfit, and where I purchased the following goods for the price men- tioned: One oil-cloth jacket and Southwester for five Hamburg marks (about one dollar and a half) ; one plain mattress with pillow, for four marks and eight shillings; one double woollen blanket for nine marks. Further, but do not laugh: Cooking-utensils, one soup plate, spoon, butter dish, bottle and mug, together, one mark and eight shillings. This completed my outfit. I now considered myself in ''ship-shape" for the long voyage. ON BOARD BARK "VICTORIA" 75 "We started with light south wind and within about a quarter of an hour we had left the myriads of vessels and commenced to set our sails. Our beautiful ship with all canvas set and flying flags passed St. Pauli and Altona. Nearly all passengers were on deck to enjoy the magnifi- cent sight of the terrace-shaped banks of the Elbe, with their country residences of Hamburg merchant princes, surrounded by well-laid-out gardens, while on the other side are large fruit farms on the so-called "Warders," little islands, a description of which I have already given. We passed Blankenese shortly after seven. The wind grew lighter, while the sun sent his parting rays across the beautiful scenery. The water scarcely curled around our vessel and the mirror-like surface of the Elbe was soon covered with innumerable white sails of all sizes, surrounding the magnificent three-master, whose im- mense pyramid-sails cast a broad, dark shadow upon the waters and passed along just as noiselessly as did the small, easy-going fisher-boat, which was rocking toward tiie owner's homestead that lay hidden amidst shrubbery on one of the green islands of the river. The wind be- came so light that it was impossible for us to reach Stade; but we were compelled by the approaching dark- ness to anchor temporarily on the Hanoverian coast and a mile and a half from the town mentioned. That hap- pened about ten o'clock last night. This morning about four we started again and reached Stade by seven, where another passenger joined our ranks, after he had delayed us for two hours more. Thus we passed Gliickstadt at eleven a. m. and anchored half an hour later to await another turn of the tide before entering the wide ocean. Here we are now, right in the middle of the beautiful Elbe, which measures something like a mile and a half from shore to shore (i. e., about five English miles). As I intend to send this letter via Cuxhaven, I shall have to break off that the pilot may take it ashore. You will know by this the exact day, almost to the hour, when we put to sea. Olias asks as a favor to have the enclosed note forwarded to his mother. 76 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE I shall endeavor to send you one more message of love and good cheer. Sunday, June 8th, 1851. We are still in the same place exactly where we an- chored the day before yesterday, i. e., between the Han- overian town Fryburg and the Holstein village Brook- dorf. Yesterday I had the misfortune to break the rim of my spectacles. While washing myself I had laid them in what I considered a safe place, but one of our cabin boys managed to break them, unintentionally, of course. I have succeeded, however, in fixing them after a fash- ion, so that they will probably stand the trip. While the river did not show much life yesterday, there was more of it on board. We had our first day of " distribution," which means the laying in of the weekly supply of bread, butter and sugar, which necessarily caused much noise and racket, which was increased by the carpenter's task of the day of driving nails through the strap iron bands of the boxes; this is done in order to fasten them together for the purpose of preventing the otherwise unavoidable swinging and breaking when out on the open sea. These were really the first intimations that we had not merely gone on a pleasure trip, but on a serious sea voyage. Other preparations, such as the secure corking of the water barrels, fastening of life-boats, while new to most of us, were nevertheless very tiresome and noisy, thus making the day one of the dreariest we have so far spent on board of the "Victoria." Toward evening we rested from the annoyances of the day. Absolute calm set in toward seven o'clock, and as a consequence the river became as smooth as a mirror, while the shores seemed to float in a mist of fog. The tolling of bells from the Fryburg church could be plainly heard on board, and they reminded us of the approaching Feast of Pentecost.* *This feast of the Holy Ghost is much more observed in Luth- eran countries than elsewhere and has become the herald of a season of excursions and summer festivities, particularly in northern climes. The approach of the "summer vacation," called ON BOARD BARK "VICTORIA" 77 We all sat on deck until nearly eleven o'clock, and men and women alike enjoyed the pleasant evening', enter- taining each other with jokes, songs and general merry- making. Today it is raining— pouring, I should call it— as if the water were emptied upon us by the bucketful. While I am penning these lines the clouds seem to grow thinner and here and there are indications of a -clear sky for the afternoon— due perhaps to the ardent supplications of Hamburg maidens who have set their hearts on airing a new bonnet or even a brand-new dress on this, the open- ing day of the season. And woman is the same the world over. The wind is blowing from the west which gives us little hope for an early start. We have been surrounded by thirty or more larger or smaller vessels, in course of time, all like ourselves are waiting for favorable wind to speed along. Nothing is more discouraging than to be nailed to one spot and to feel a breeze overhead without being able to utilize it, as the Elbe, though very wide to the naked eye, is but a narrow water in which ships like the Victoria cannot course about to great advantage. There remains nothing but to patiently await a favorable turn of the wind. Meanwhile there is plenty of time to plan and execute our preparations for the long trip which is before us. Tuesday, June 10th, 1851. At 9 a. m. My hope that the weather might clear up during the afternoon of Pentecost Sunday was only realized in part to allow us an evening recreation on deck, which oc- currence brings the individuals closer to each other, and shows a variety of amusing intellects which would sur- prise you. Yesterday we encountered a genuine North- sea storm. Of course, there was no possibility of sailing on Sunday, and all the vessels which had come down the "clog's days," which lasts four long weeks and not as we have it, threw whole months, is joyfully welcomed by the young. — Transl. 78 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE river were obliged to anchor in our vicinity, as the Elbe changes its course near Fryburg and thus neutralizes the breeze that has helped them thus far. Yesterday's storm raged with an intensity I never witnessed before; and the rain came down in torrents. Our vessel, though at anchor, was thrown on one side and rocked so terribly that most of our passengers became sea-sick. I should never have thought the Elbe capable of raising such im- mense waves at this point. About eight o'clock in the morning two> barks which were a little ahead of us weighed anchor to go back to greater safety, an example which was soon followed by four or five brigs and a few schooners, so that we were actually left alone to hold the fort— a circumstance which I thought rather amusing. But about half-past ten we, too, began to get busy and, though the whole crew and ten or twelve passengers were working at the capstan and winding tackle, it took a full hour to haul in the big chain, which measures in bulk about twenty cords. We returned to Gliickstadt, where we re-anchored at one o'clock in the midst of the vessels which had left Fryburg before us. Besides, there were many others which had come down from Hamburg, and, like ourselves, were compelled to wait. As we were now sheltered from the rough weather the water calmed and our sick people soon recovered from their seasickness, which in most cases baffled all description. During the evening nearly all of them appeared on deck to enjoy the fresh breeze, intermitted with slight showers. Our evenings, as I have said before, are looked for with spe- cial pleasure. Everybody seems gay and full of fun. Two fellows especially, one Fabricius from Berlin, and a Suabian by the name of Stolle, seem inexhaustible and untiring in finding ways to amuse the crowd— a worthy aim which is heartily supported by almost everybody; though one always finds a few cranks in a large body of peojjle. Aside from the two commissaries of good cheer — Fabricius and Stolle— we have some very talented mu- sical amateurs on board. There is likewise a raconteur, who has seemingly a supply of anecdotes and Hamburg UN BOARD BARK "VICTORIA" 79 legends that will last and amuse us for quite a while to coine. Among our musicians there is a Tliuringian paper- hanger, who is a veritable master of the Jews'- harp; in this way we enjoy vocal and instrumental concerts and timely after-dinner speeches, which are by no means to be undervalued. Our steerage has now a more respectable appearance, everything being definitely placed, boxes fastened and nailed together, so as not to disturb our rest by day or night. The upper berths are so close to the ceiling that 1 can touch it when lying fiat on my back, yet the lower berths do not have as much room. Yesterday we re- ceived ship's fare for the first time: "White peas with potatoes and pork. It was excellent; I ate two portions of it, my own and that of a sea-sick companion, while my thoughts drifted all the time to you, my dear father, who delight in such a plain, healthful meal. Now if the com- panionship continues in this harmonious and pleasing maimer, if the rations of our daily supply do not grow smaller, I, for my part, shall be well satisfied, knowing that the quality of our food may undergo changes such as outward conditions force upon us, and which we have to accept be they to our special liking or not. The red cap which Marie crocheted as a farewell gift ornaments the head of a Schleswig-Holstein exile, the well-known lawyer, Meyer, from Cappeln, who is like- wise bound for San Francisco and whose headgear took (light during yesterday's storm. I loaned him my cap temporarily. Today it is raining again and the sky is covered with grayish clouds. There is just a breath of air, which seems to come from the East; should it grow stronger by noon there may be a possibility of an early departure. As matters look now we cannot get away before the afternoon tide. AYe find patience to be the ruling virtue at ixresent. 3 p. m., off Cuxhaven. About a quarter to eleven this morning we started to weigh anchor and, making use of a fresh northern breeze, 80 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE we succeeded in reaching Cuxhaven, a little sea town within the jurisdiction of Hamburg. •■ This place is known to all sea-faring men for its lighthouse, its old castle and its fine beach, which also has become a point of pilgrim- age for the neighboring populace; it likewise serves as a military outpost and has fully, ten thousand inhabitants, mostly engaged in ship-building and forwarding of car- goes. Should the wind continue favorable, we shall sure- ly reach the open sea before night. The weather is cold and rainy and my oil-cloth suit proves a valuable acqui- sition. My fingers are somewhat benumbed, which may be attributed to the cold or other causes. A quick fare- well is the best, therefore once more and quickly: Adieu! Farewell ! To all you loved ones at home, whose love goes out to me! With filial devotion, FRANZ. P. S.— Griinhagen asks to forward his note. LETTER NO. V On board the Hamburg bark "Victoria," Captain Meyer Between Valdivia and Valparaiso. The 20th and 21st of October, 1851. My Beloved Parents: — As has so often happened with many others, so must this one begin with an excuse for not having written from Valdivia, after an interruption of nearly five months. Do not call it idleness on my part. The blame is to be attributed to the government of Chile, as the constant rebellions have been the cause of a com- plete interruption in the mail-service between Valdivia and Valparaiso. If I had therefore carried out my former intention of at least notifying you of my safe arrival, the probability is that my letter would never have reached you. I shall, however, make amends by giving you a very minute account of my voyage; but pray do not ex- pect to hear of wonderful adventures or of hair-raising accounts of narrow escapes and danger to life. "While it is true that I had a long and disagreeable trip, particu- larly in the last month, the voyage was not at all terri- ble; even the disagreeable storms around the Cape were no worse than other storms, though they used our ship badly; there is less danger when one has plenty of space and no land close by. You may read therefore without worry; and especially you, dear mother, take my advice and do not commence the letter at the end to get assur- ance that I have still the use of my limbs. I am in as good a humor as one can possibly be when— after a four- months' trip— one has had a chance of enjoying the ro- mantic sceneries of the impenetrable, virgin-forests of the Chilean coast— las Cordilleras. As I do not know whether my letter No. 4; which I sent ashore at Cuxhaven on the loth of June, has reached 6 81 82 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE you, my beloved ones, I will now proceed to give a short resume of its contents and, in reality, begin at the very beginning. It was a magnificent early summer evening, June 5th, of the present year, about a quarter to six, when the Mars-yards went squeaking up the masts of our "Vic- toria"; a mild south-wind filled the sails; slowly, and graciously the vessel careened lightly to the side and we slid along the mirror-like Elbe. The customary volley of salute was fired to bid farewell to St. Pauli (suburb of Hamburg), and to the city of Altona; then gliding noiselessly past the beautiful parks and villas which, chain-like, present themselves along the banks of the Elbe as far as Nienstadten; that charming little Blanke- nese, became the object of the parting sun's rays, and darker and darker grew the night, and about ten o'clock we heard the lowering of the anchor near Stade on the Elbe. After weighing anchor again at daybreak, we re- mained an hour or more to take another passenger and, passing Gliickstadt, were compelled by contrary wind to anchor once more, about a mile below, in the middle of the Elite between the Hanoverian town Fryburg and the Eolstein P>rookdorf; it was then about eleven in the fore- noon. The wind being S. W. and W. S. W., we could not move and were compelled to remain here on the 6th, 7th and 8th. On the 7th we were treated to some great noise. The carpenter nailed boxes of all kinds more se- curely, principally in the steerage, and besides that there were many other preparations, though not as necessary, yet fully as noisy, which made the whole day a very un- comfortable one. But the evening recompensed us for the disagreeable day. The air was mild and absolutely quiet. The waters of the Elbe surrounded the ship like a shining mirror; the banks of the river seemed to float in the bluish evening-fog; and bells of Fryburg tolled softly and solemnly through the air— announcing the Eve of Pentecost. Never has an evening like this stim- ulated the mood of a dreamy mind more. I followed si- lently the dictates of Nature and choosing the most se- ■^ q THE OCEAN VOYAGE 83 eluded spot, I allowed my thoughts to run as they would, and there i ; no need of telling you of their course: you are quite aware of it, beloved ones. The first day of Pentecost, as you already know, was spent on the same spot; the weather was cold, it stoi; and then it rained hard. Many vessels passed during the day, bound outward, but all had to cast anchor near us. On Monday we had a hurricane from the West, of such severity that one ship after the oilier was compelled to weigh anchor and return up the river, seeking- shelter. We, too, had to follow suit soon after twelve o'clock and reached Gliickstadt about one, where we anchored again. The waves rose so high that the rapid rolling of the ves- sel caused many of our passengers to become seasick. The following day was not much more agreeable, as the rain came down in torrents. The wind veered fortunate- ly to the North, so that it became possible for us to weigh anchor during the forenoon, and to proceed toward Cux- haven in company with about twenty other vessels which were, like ourselves, sea-bound. We reached the light- house at three o'clock p. m. and anchored about a quar- ter of a mile off the coast. Being in hopes that we would continue our trip right away, I sent the afore mentioned letter ashore at once. In this, to my great chagrin, I was disappointed, as the wind changed to the Northwest, which compelled us to cultivate patience for another day, as we were unable to move. To make it worse, this day, too, was a rainy one and nobody will blame me for being in ill-humor when evening came. Being compelled to spend a whole week in rainy weather on the Elbe, when one is conscious of having about four thousand miles of travel ahead, is not the thing to improve one's temper. Angry with the weather, with Hamburg and Cuxhaven, with the I and North-Sea, with myself and fellow- passengers, I crawled very early into my berth and soon fell asleep, notwithstanding the pouring of the rain and the splashing of the waters against the rolling ship. About three o'clock In the morning of dune the 12th, I was aroused by the rattling of the anchor-chain. I hastened 84 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE on deck. The morning was beautiful and the fresh W. S. W. breeze filled every inch of our sails in a short time. About five o'clock we reached the light-house of Neu- werk, built upon a barren island, which is most of the time under water. Within half an hour more the pilot left us near the inner light-boat and about seven o'clock we passed the outer light-boat in company with a large Hamburg steamer, after which we went swinging up and down the blue, foam-crowned waves of the North-Sea, which had a gruesome effect on the health of our passen- gers. Before we had caught sight of the reddish, glitter- ing rock of Heligoland— about 7:45— our ship became the scene of general seasickness. The steerage in particular had become a real den of misery, which I entered but once or twice during the day. There were six other pas- sengers— Griinhagen among them— who escaped seasick- ness altogether. Though we did not approach Heligo- land closer than about two miles, we kept sight of it un- til four o'clock in the afternoon. During the day we had met numerous vessels sailing toward the Elbe and Weser, but in the evening we passed right between a fleet of eighteen Dutch, herring-fishing, boats, a fact which ap- prised us of the short distance from the Coast of Holland. While we had made considerable headway during this day, it proved to be the only one during which we could boast of fair wind as long as we remained in the North- Sea; for we awakened the next morning to observe a fresh western wind with cloudy sky. We approached the channel by short tacks, with many ships in sight. On Saturday, the 14th, we had beautiful weather but hardly any wind; about nine o'clock we sighted twenty-two ships which were surrounding us in the sun-kissed waters of the North-Sea. About noon we were accosted by a Dutch fishing-boat. The wind changed during the afternoon to S. W., remaining the same till the following Sunday, when— about four o'clock in the afternoon— we sighted the English coast for the first time; the land sighted be- ing the high sand-hills of Ramsgate. The sea ran high, and the contrast between the grayish vellow color near THE OCEAN VOYAGE 85 the shore and the transparent blue-green of the high sea was very striking. We noticed the air thickening near by, but before it began to rain we could distinguish a large number of English fishing-boats at anchor. Being compelled to turn aside, we lost sight of land within half an hour. The breeze grew stronger every minute and one sail after the other was taken in; when darkness over- took us we had only the doubly-fitted Mars and storm- bridge-sails up. Of course nobody slept during that night. The groaning and lamenting of the steerage pas- sengers and various other noises from the different parts of the shit), together with the creaking of the vessel, com- bined to produce a turmoil, compared with which the de- struction of Sodom and Gomorrah was evidently a mild affair. This confusion and noise continued during the whole night. The long looked-for morning dawned at last and, as the rain was not as heavy as before, we— that is, the few who remained well— went on deck to breathe the fresh air. Though 1 have since lived through many a storm, among which this one was in reality not to be counted, yet there has not been one that caused as much sickening and un- bearable commotion in the steerage as was experienced during that night; it baffled one's powers of description. The wind changed suddenly to Northwest about seven o'clock in the morning, which had the effect of moder- ating the weather and clearing the sky. Then came a busy time of setting sails, when we made great speed un- der good wind. We saw again many vessels and at one o'clock there came an English fishing-sloop alongside to sell fish. Soon after the color of the water changed into a dirty, greyish green, giving evidence that we were ap- proaching land, which we sighted at 5:30 o'clock. There were in sight the low English Dunes of Gallopers at about three miles' distance. We kept sailing alongside of them until eight o'clock when they vanished from sight, we having taken a more southern course When night came the West wind blew anew, so that the Mars-sail* had to be *Or top-sail, 86 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE lowered again. The next morning found the weather very disagreeable and rough, and the air thick. It was the 17th of June; we steered toward the channel and had the satisfaction of seeing the high coast of Calais about one o'clock, though at a distance of many miles. The wind commenced to lessen and changed more toward the North. At half-past two we sighted the coast of Eng- land near Dover, when we realized to our great relief that we had entered the Pas de Calais, leaving behind us the North-Sea with all its storms and dangers. "While, my beloved ones, I have taken you clear to the English channel, you have not heard anything of my mode of life, how I am lodged, what I do, or eat or drink. I therefore hasten to give an account of all that which in reality does not undergo much change during the whole voyage. During our trip through the North-Sea and channel, we were not well settled on account of the sea-sickness which had to be considered. The steerage of the Victoria is a room about seven feet high, forty feet long and taking in the whole width of the ship. Light and air are admitted through the two entrances, the large middle-hatch, near the main-mast and the steerage-way near the cabin. The bunks of the passengers are to the right and left, arranged four in a cell, two by two, one above another. As we were only fifty-seven passengers, having twenty cabins at our dis- posal, we managed to make things as comfortable as pos- sible by placing two or three in a cabin. The walks were narrow as the boxes and other effects had been piled up in the middle of the steerage alongside of the cabins; we utilized them, however, as tables, benches and chairs. The illumination at night was produced by two lanterns which sufficed to make correct estimate of the dimness and the thickness of the air, which might at times have been cut with knives. My laundry-articles and other necessities for the trip were in a small bag and a still smaller box of about 1% cubic feet. One learns to be satisfied with little on trips like my present one. Thus much of our common lodging place: our mode of life is, of course, similarly monotonous. THE OCEAN VOYAGE 87 AVe generally arise before six o'clock, make toilet, which consists of washing and combing, as there is little dressing done. The necessary adroitness required in washing is soon learned, as one profits by the mistakes of others, who had towels and tin-pans blown overboard or who suffered other tricks played on them by the wind. I soon learned that short hair is a gre il blessing as it facilitates combing and prevents the wind from playing havoc on one's head. The wardrobe is unusually simple, consisting in my case, as in that of most of the others, of a woollen shirt, linen trousers, and slices without stock- ings; a cap completed the outfit ordinarily. A coat is only worn on cold days and I wore my stockings only at the beginning of the vovage and later on woollen ones near Cape Horn. About half-past six each one of us re- ceived two quarts of coffee in his mug, which was given us at the kitchen. The time till noon w T as spent in any way the individual passenger would choose, for better or worse. At twelve o'clock, dinner was served. Every two bunks were entitled to one mess, which, one of the two occupants had to fetch in large wooden bowl from the cook. Though our bill of fare was exceedingly plain, as is natural, it consisted of nutritious and very digesti- ble food, the preparation of which was not to be com- plained of, although one must bear in mind that we were only steerage passengers. We had: Mondays, white peas and pork; Tuesdays, rice-soup and beef; Wednesdays, sauer-kraut and pork; Thursdays, rice-soup and beef; Fridays, lentils with pork; Saturdays, peeled barley with prunes and herring; Sunday, pudding with prune- sauce and beef. Outside of that we were treated to pota- toes every day until July. Sauer-kraut and lentils were in time replaced by peas. By meat, of course, salted meat is meant. We likewise received every week: Five pounds of wheat-crackers, which satisfied the appetite of the most greedy. Rye-crackers were considered a deli- cacy, as only a small quantity had found its way on board. Again- one-half pound of butter; a quarter of a pound of yellow farina-sugar (so-called), mustard, salt and vine- 88 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE gar for every passenger. Each one, of course, had to clean his tinware, etc., and was then at liberty to do as he chose until tea-time, which was about half-past six or earlier, according to the approach of darkness; it was distributed like the coffee, and everybody was af liberty to add sugar or brandy to suit himself. I preferred to drink both tea and coffee without any addition.. Bed- time was not set. This -way of living appears very monotonous, as every day is the precise renewal of the preceding one; and con- sequently most passengers were more annoyed by ennui than they had previously been by seasickness. As to myself I have not given up my old belief that a man is to a great extent the arbiter or maker of his own experi- ences—the cause of the effects. I never suffered for want of something to do or think about, and I have stood as much and perhaps more chance of becoming lonesome than any one else on board. Of course I looked around for some agreeable work to kill time with, and thus I took to painting, of which there is always plenty to be done on board a vessel. If it really happened that I could not find anything to do, I enjoyed a rest as well, particu- larly in the evening about tea-time. Sitting on the rear end, my feet dangling over the rail, I watched the ever- changing course of waves and clouds for hours, and en- joying my cigar. Wondrously beautiful were the pic- tures of nature at sun-set, when waves and clouds ap- peared in magnificent colors, especially in the tropics of the Atlantic; later in the evening, when the play of col- ors ceased, the soft light of the moon played strange tricks, outlining all kinds of fantastic forms and shapes, and enveloping them with a silvery halo. Thus were the clouds distributed on the horizon of the dark blue Heavens, bestrewn with millions of shining lights, large and small, and separated from the rising and falling waves of the ocean, the ever-swinging surface of which reproduces in magnificence the thousands of little white stars, throwing them, as it seems, about and reflect- ing the glittering rays of the moon, which is resting on THE OCEAN VOYAGE 89 the summit of yonder cloud. But I do not want to enter the realm of dreams, and therefore will return to the diary of my voyage. We had arrived in the channel on June the 17th about two o'clock in the afternoon. The wind blew from the North and we turned our course toward the West. We soon came so close to Calais that it was not only possible for us to distinguish the steeples and houses of this quaint little town, but even the masts of the ships in the harbor, notwithstanding the unfavorable weather, which only permitted us to recognize that part of the English coast which stretches from North Foreland to Dover Castle. The wind did not permit us to approach it any closer than two miles, so that one could see no more than the gigantic outline of its rocky walls. At sun-set the wind calmed down completely and the evening was so beautiful that even the victims of seasickness crawled out of their cells to enjoy the splendid view. From starboard one could observe the English coast, whose bluish rocks were a fit part in the unusual scenery of the evening, while the set- ting sun shed its golden rays over the terraces of the chalk rocks of Cape Grisnez. About us was the channel, smooth and silent as the mirror of a lake upon which the soft gliding of the vessel could hardly be heard. The night covered the scene by and by with her star-spangled heavens, and when we at last turned toward our berths we had reached Dungeness, the red lights of which were plainly visible to our view. From the Northeast shone the bright fires of Dover, which towers upon the high coast; behind us, toward the East, we saw the brilliant fires of Grisnez and further South sparkled the blaze of Boulogne. The greater part of the following day we had contrary Western winds which compelled us to make short cruises. The cold and foggy air did not make our trip through the channel much more agreeable than that of the Elbe and North Sea, though we had occasion to see some very interesting sights. Early the next morning, Wednesday, the 18th, on which the beauty of the night before had still left its imprint, 90 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE we found ourselves surrounded by a great many vessels, increasing in number as the forenoon passed, so that I counted toward noon about sixty-four of them with full sails, which offered a magnificent spectacle, the splendor of which was heightened by the noonday sun. Until sev- en o'clock we were unable to see anything but the im- mense chalk-rocks of Beachy-head, which we observed from the star-board. The breeze increased during the day to such an extent that top-sails had to be fastened about four o'clock in the afternoon, when we just found ourselves opposite the pretty city of Brighton, half a mile away. We were able to distinguish not only the houses, trees, etc., of this charming little town, but could even watch the outgoing train, speeding along the green, mountainous coast, bound for London. By means of tel- escopes we distinguished several pedestrians, especially on the Grande terrace, which I recognized at once, as well as the royal pavilion, built in Chinese style, which are so well pictured in Myer's Universal Lexicon (Cyclo- pedia). The coast of Cowes was reached and passed dur- ing the night. Our cruise on Thursday was hindered by stormy West-wind and such a rain-storm that we could hardly see a ship's length ahead. The fog cleared about one o'clock and then, the Isle of Wight, with its high rocks, came to view. While the raging waves were break- ing on stony shore, a passing sun-ray dimly lightened its crumbling walls. Within a minute's time the fog thick- ened again and deprived us of the sight which had caused a surprise, as we had found ourselves within a thousand yards of the breakers. Good care was taken to> steer at once toward the French coast. Four smaller vessels, which were between us and the breakers, did likewise, and it is to be hoped that they, too, escaped the danger, though the immediate thickening of the fog prevented us from watching them. On Friday, the 20th, we remained almost without wind and not until evening could we sight any land, when the island of Portsmouth with its pic- turesque chalk rocks appeared at a distance of about four miles and later in the night I caught a glimpse of the THE OCEAN VOYAGE 91 French coast near Cherbourg in the southern horizon. The English coast came plainly to view on Saturday forenoon, when we enjoyed clear weather which, how- ever, did not enable us to see much more of it than we had seen of the French coast, as our last glimpse of Eng- land or Europe was taken about three o'clock in the after- noon, when we reached within a mile the cliff of Eddy- stone. The fresh sea-breeze and customary fog did not permit us to tarry and we soon lost sight of the island, which consists of two black cliffs, separated by a small canal, the larger one of which projects about twenty feet and is made noticeable by its celebrated lighthouse. Landsend, as it is called, was reached about eight o'clock Sunday morning under stormy N. N. W. wind, with no land in sight. Thus commenced a new turn in my voyage, not wholly agreeable. When we entered the Atlantic Ocean or rather the Bay of Biscaya, the weather was so cold that I felt compelled to wear my heavy sack coat whenever I intended to stay on deck. As long as we remained in the Spanish sea, passing- Cape' Finisterre (Spain) on Thursday, the 26th, wind and weather were rather favorable, though the fori no- blew but lightly, while the latter continued cold. From the day we had left the Channel I noticed a remarkable change in the color of the water. While the North sea and Channel differ little from the Baltic, being all dark blue green in color, the two former are considerably clear- er than our native sea, which is the case of the Atlantic waters. I cannot find a suitable expression to describe the clear, transparent, carmine blue of the Atlantic ocean. The color remains everywhere the same, as I have been unable to see any difference, neither in the tropics nor in the southern hemisphere is it more beautiful than at the entrance into the Bay of Biscaya. It almost seemed as if the transparency of the water was more noticeable when we approached the Equator and lessened as we went more southward bnt in that I may have been mistaken; at all events the difference would be very slight. To give you a correct idea I will say that we could distinguish 92 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE the nails and dents in the copper sheathings of our keel, which was fully fifteen feet under water, and as plainly as if the Victoria were in dock, and we were looking through blue colored glass. Moreover, we could tell the color and size of the fishes and describe their shapes though they went far below the keel. The color of the water at the turning jDoint from the Channel into the At- lantic was, strangely enough of a beautiful grass green. Another phenomenon which one has opportunity to observe in the Biscayan Bay, is the well-known much de- scribed and talked of ocean phosphorescence. It was Tuesday, the 24th of June. The wind had been mild all day and the sun did its work ; about eight in the evening a light southeast wind arose which grew stronger with the coming darkness, so that the ship soon went flying through the quiet ocean, which reflected the innumerable stars of the firmament upon its dark, billowy surface. Wherever the bow of the vessel caused a broad foamy wave, it would resemble a bluish white moon ray repro- duction in the dusty cascade, created by a turning mill wheel. From the long and narrow strips of dark colored water, which were visible between the flakes of foam, as they passed the sides of the ship, there sprang forth in- numerable dark red sparks, like burning coal, in shapes of stars, rings and fire balls, forming a beautiful contrast to the foamy cascade already described. I scarcely believe that you will be able to get a correct conception of the remarkable phenomenon from my de- scription, as one cannot possibly relate it intelligently to those who have never seen it. Whenever I witnessed such a spectacle it invariably impressed me deeply and when I saw it the first time I remained on deck till after midnight. On the following Sunday, in a heavy thunderstorm, accompanied by lightning, we saw the ocean covered with fiery sparks and a procession of mackerel, splashing along our boat side, which made the spectacle really worth see- ing. Each one of these fishes glittered golden red and drew, as it were, a long sparkling trail behind him, which THE OCEAN VOYAGE 93 enabled us to watch the fiery procession long after they had passed our ship. Another beautiful sight was caused by the wake of our ship which resembled the passing smoke of a bright fire and could be observed at a distance of fully a hundred and fifty yards. However, it is an erroneous supposition that the ocean produces such lights on every dark night. Even in the tropics these phenom- ena are rare occurrences. A week would pass at times during which we hardly noticed a spark, and only then when a procession of fish or a passing vessel would cause a sudden break in the water. The most magnificent dis- play of this phenomenon I ever witnessed occurred on the 15th of duly, under the eighth degree of northern latitude, a description of which I shall give you later on— south of the La Plata, one can only see a few sparks now and then and only on unusually dark nights; below ( ape Horn nothing at all. I am told, on the other hand, that during severe stormy winters there are phosphores- cent displays in this latitude which outrank in splendor anything ever witnessed in other parts. I have had no opportunity of verifying this, however. As previously mentioned, we left the Bay of Biscaya on Thursday, June 26th. ( >n Saturday we communicated with an Austrian bark, "Nero," which was north-bound and sailing under 14 36m. of Greenwich W. longitude, and 41° 20m. X. lat.; it was taking freight from Odessa to Antwerp. The same evening we observed a little bird, homeward bound. The wind continued to be light and contrary, often entirely absent. We again had a chance to speak an English vessel, the brig "Eupheinia," which earned freight from London to the Cape of Good Hope and had been on her trip from Doverress about a fort- night, now, like ourselves, taking a southern course. We sighted the first dolphins on Tuesday, when twenty of them were playing around our ship and the next morn- ing, Wednesday, the 2d, we were surprised beyond de- scription to be caught by a X. E. monsoon or trade wind which rarely goes beyond Madeira, while we had only reached the latitude of Gibraltar. As we now went along 94 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE with extraordinary speed, making as many as eleven knots an hour, it was not astonishing- that we caught sight of Madeira about three o'clock the following after- noon. We passed within a distance of four (German) miles and even then it was hardly possible for us to dis- tinguish anything but a bare outline of the island, which appeared east of us; the northern part of the island lost itself in the blue fog of the evening, which covered the horizon as usual and which enveloped everything, thus depriving us of a good view. The sun fortunately broke through for a few minutes, as late as seven o 'clock in the evening, when we caught sight of the high, rocky coast, which appeared as steep as a wall in the reddish light of the setting sun. Madeira is built upon this wall and rises about 2,500 feet in conic sections. It was a beauti- ful sight, when the top of this island mountain glittered above the clouds in the slowly disappearing coloring of the evening, while the lower clouds seemed to separate the peak from its body. The approaching darkness made it impossible to see anything more until about eight o'clock, when the moon had gained strength enough to draw fantastic sketches of Madeira upon the dark clouds of the night. The monsoon filled our sails and having the larboard sails up on either side, we went along at rapid speed. The sea went high, but the whitecaps which it threw up did not cause phosphorescent light, though they surrounded the ship like a mighty girdle; only now and then appeared a single spark. When I awoke the next morning, Friday, July 4th, I went on deck, but Madeira had already disappeared from our horizon and the ship went with full sails into the im- mense desert of water, which had often been the theme of my childhood dreams and the subject for fruitful med- itations of later years. For sixty-two days I saw around me nothing but sky and water, clouds and waves; no rest- ing place for the searching eye but, maybe, a lonely sail at great distance; the tired wings of a rare bird or the dumb inhabitants of that unreliable but beautiful, that terrible and yet so charming, that restless, haunted and THE OCEAN VOYAGE 95 yet to me so infinitely attractive element which we were now speeding through. It was not until the 4th of September that we caught sight of land; the desolate wilderness of the snowy moun- tains of the Fireland (terra dol fuego). Saturday, the 5th of July, I saw flying fish for the iirst time; it appears to be the most common among the inhabitants of the trop- ical waters, for hardly a day passed in which we did not see one or more processions of them. They are gen- erally seen in very large numbers, often as many as a hundred or more, rarely alone. The flying fish resem- bles the trout to some extent but reaches hardly three or four inches in length. By means of breast fins, which are unusually well developed and reaching from head to tail, it raises itself above the water and appears in purest silvery light. The rapidity of its motion ma}' be com- pared to that of our ocean swallows. It jumps about ten feet above the water and then manages to sail a dis- tance of ten to fifteen yards through the air; I have even watched some of them that covered fully two or three times the distance. Another fish which is very often met with in the tropics is the tumbler or porpoise. It measures about three or four feet in length and nearly one foot in diameter, brown on top and white at the belly; it generally keeps close to the surface and travels in company of four or five; now and then it jumps a few Peel above the water and is rather lively for its size. Among those that resemble the tumbler is the jumper or hog fish. "When we saw these animals for the first time, on July 22d, they approached us in immense numbers —by thousands — and the sight of their bodies and mo- tions were so comical that every mother's son of us had to laugh until he was completely exhausted. The shape, as the name of the animal indicates, resembles that of a clumsy pig; on its back is a large, strong fin about six inches long and bent backward. The motion consists of a big jump forward by which it raises itself several above the water in a half circle, returning bead first into its former element. Like the tumbler, the hog fish very 96 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE often weighs close to five hundred pounds, though only three or four feet in length. Another fish, which is not quite as common, however, is the bonito, about one and a half to two feet long and closely resembling our pike. I never remember having seen him deeper than ten to fifteen feet from the surface, where it appeared in beautiful golden and emerald col- ors, but I dare not say that such is in reality its make-up, as one is often deceived by the bluish transparency of the water in tropical climates, which gives a lustre to the color of the fishes which they lose as soon as they are taken out of their element. These are the four kinds which one meets most fre- quently, as other species are rarely seen and never in great numbers. For instance, it happened on the 14th of July, toward evening, that we observed two ores (a small sort of whale) which passed close by our ship and we were able to see their protruding backs, which easily measured twelve feet in length and two or three feet vis- ible width. But you will ask in astonishment: "Where is the much dreaded shark?" Strangely enough, I have seen but one during my whole voyage. This said shark was seen by us all on Wednesday, July the 9th, in the afternoon and there is no need of telling you that our whole ship became alarmed, while it did not bother itself at all about us, following its course in crossing our keel. Whales were more numerous, especially in more southern regions, where the jumping fish and other species afore- mentioned came no more in sight. All counted, I may have seen twenty of them, mostly at a distance. Thus much about the fishes and now back to my trip. For ten successive days we had the North East Mon- soon filling our sails, and experienced but one short inter- ruption on the fourth of July, when a fresh East wind set in; the remaining time till the eleventh of July there was absolutely no change, not even in the wind's force. Our lar sails were up day and night, which increased our rapidity considerably. The weather remained cool and agreeable and every- THE OCEAN VOYAGE 97 thing possible was done to make our voyage as pleasant as could be expected, and this period in particular will always be pleasantly remembered. The only privation was caused by the bad drinking water, in regard to which I find the first notice in my diary of July 4th. I wrote it in the spirit of real depression and in the meantime in the consciousness of such weakness as one experiences when the pangs of real thirst are torturing body and mind. I formerly often thought myself thirsty, but it is my present conviction that I never knew what real thirst meant until I experienced it on this voyage, in the days when I hesitated to the last moment before I dared to take a few swallows of the black, yellowish, disgustingly warm water, which emitted an odor that was equal only to its putridity, and yet it was not that which made me hesitate, no indeed! The real thirst does not know of such foolish notions; it was only because my ration would thus grow smaller! Fortunately, this privation lasted only a fortnight or so, when we enjoyed better water, though our Fregel (river) at home would have been a dispenser of delicacy in comparison with the quality of the ship's supply. During that period I had ample opportunity to meditate upon the rare enjoyment which is derived from a glass of clear, cold, fresh well-water and I would have derived great pleasure in treating to my daily refreshments some of those fools who will pour a glass of delicious well water upon the sand on account of a little dust or perhaps only a gnat which has fallen into it. Our drinking water contained other things than dust or dead gnats. We passed the northern tropic circle on July the 7th, about half past four in the afternoon. The temperature was cool and agreeable, while the air was "flabby," to use a sailor's expression, which means dull, without being foggy or cloudy, ? peculiarity of the latitudes of the northern as well as sor+hern tropic circles, where, with the exception of the noon hour, one cannot count upon clearnes : and brightness of the air. 7 98 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE On the following day we had the sun almost vertically over our heads, the angle from our vessel to the Northern horizon measuring 89 degrees. The day before the sun stood on the Southern heavens at an angle measuring 8 7 Ms degrees. The ship would only throw shadow when it bent to one side or the other and my own shadow could be measured by putting my feet slightly apart, thereby having even the tips of my shoes and the calves out of the shade. The air was slightly clouded, but not at all oppressive. When evening arrived we enjoyed the prox- imity of another vessel; it was moonlight and about nine o 'clock when we noticed a large bark coming from nortn- east, while our course was S. W. V2 S. Though within a short distance neither a lantern nor any other signal appeared, consequently we continued our course without noticing the strange vessel any further, which followed for a while in our wake. When morning came we had lost sight of it entirely. Until the eleventh of July nothing noteworthy oc- curred. On this day, at one o 'clock, a magnificent, pow- erful osprey had taken a temporary rest on our wedge yard, when Capt. Meyer took a shot at him. The beau- tiful animal measured about six feet from tip to tip. This deed of useless cruelty was immediately avenged, for, scarcely did the dying bird lay in his last agony, when the favorable wind suddenly changed to a deadly calm, the first one we had really experienced during our whole voyage. We therefore were glad when, about four o'clock, a mild Southeastern breeze set in, followed by a slight rain; the sea rose considerably as a last farewell of the departed Northeast Monsoon. The evening of this day offered one of the rare spec- tacles which is seen only in the tropics, and though I am well convinced that not even the most enthusiastic de- scription could give a clear conception of the gorgeous magnificence to one who has never been an eye witness of it, I will nevertheless try to describe the phenomenon in the best manner of which I am capable. We had sunset about six o'clock and it seemed as if THE OCEAN VOYAGE 99 the parting rays intended to make the best of the few minutes' time assigned to them. The clouds of the heav- ens were their objects and the wide horizon their play yard, which soon appeared in the most exquisite color- ings, from the deepest violet to the lightest carnation, and shining golden yellow; the wonderful shapes of colors and clouds were such that it really did not require an enthusiast to recognize the most charming mountain scenes, forests, valleys, snow-caps, ruins of the middle ages, whole cities and villages in those fantastic shapes. Every second brought new changes, not only in the forms, but in colors ; when one would fade another would appear in its brightest hue, and so en. The surface of the ocean appeared like a mirror with the exception of the slow waves which measured about a hundred feet in width, and the reproduction of the burning colors of the horizon upon the quiet waters was almost as marvelous as the scene above. Turning to the east, one would be struck by a different but not less beau- tiful spectacle. The full moon had arisen and shone through the foggy evening atmosphere, its full light was cast upon dark grey figures, no less strange than those of the western part of the horizon and throwing upon the water the floating silvery bridge which I had often watched with longing, dreaming glance while sitting on the banks of our little lake or river at home. Thus we were placed between two beautiful heavens, representing evening and night, purer and more marvelously beautiful than I had ever seen them before. The light Southeast wind blew hardly enough to fill the upper sails, while the lower ones struck constantly against masts and spars, creating the only noise in the prevailing sultry silence. Everybody was on deck, lounging quietly during the oppressive heat. The man at the wheel had just rung his seven bells when my curiosity was aroused by a strange, raven black cloud of unusual shape, which ap- peared upon the Southwestern horizon. At first it ap- proached slowly, then quicker and quicker, taking larger 100 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE proportions and reflecting* its gloom upon the quiet At- lantic, for the lustre of the heaven had vanished quite a while before. Soon I noticed in the cloud a white-yel- lowish spot, which grew likewise to uncomfortable dimen- sions until it was over our heads. I watched the phenom- enon breathlessly and, as I had often before heard of it as indicating a windstorm, I notified the pilot, who had just come out of his cabin. He gave a quick glance at the cloud, and then came the command to fasten the jib, wedge and topsails and so on. No sooner were the prep- arations completed than it grew quite dark, a few heavy raindrops commenced to fall, whilst everything was still as death. I nervously awaited the things to come. Soon I heard a peculiar roar in the air and our ship was shortly after tossed over on one side with, such terrific force of the gale that those who had not taken the precau- tion of steadying themselves in some manner would surely have fallen to the floor. The sails commenced to fill and the Victoria gained slowly but surely, cutting a mighty wave in two with its broad bow, thereby pushing aside the unruly waters. Then came the flight! What speed! We went along like lightning, but in the meantime there was a rush for shelter, as the rain came down in such torrents that it resembled the outpouring of one ocean into another. All this lasted about half an hour, after which rain and wind slowly subsided, and we fell as soundly asleep as if we had been ashore. From the following day until Wednesday, the 16th, there was complete calm. How all this affects the mind can only be appreciated by one who has lived through similar experiences. We were sailing at this time be- tween the tenth and eleventh degree of Northern latitude. The intense heat of the sun burns one's brain, the per- spiration opens all pores and, notwithstanding the great exhaustion, one can hardly find a moment's sleep on ac- count of the depressing heat. In addition to that, we had to endure a burning thirst, which our daily allowance of a pint of stale, warrn water was unable to quench. A good rain fortunately changed the atmosphere and we THE OCEAX VOYAGE 101 ■were able to refresh ourselves, if only for a short while. Our eyes also were henceforth treated to daily changes, as we could now observe many passing vessels. To him who has never made a sea voyage it seems to be almost impossible for ships to change position in time of complete calm. But so it is and it does not take much mental effort to account for it. One can plainly see ves- sels on a bright day at a distance of about six German miles and even further away if they lie within the observ- er's clear horizon, turning the shady side of their sails toward him or, the contrary, if they show the sunny side of their sails on a darker horizon. However, a given vessel will remain invisible to the eye of a keen observer if even on a bright day and at half the distance men- tioned nothing be offered but the narrow edge of its sails. Now as at the time of a complete calm the vessels keep revolving very slowly but constantly, which, in sea- inan's parlance, is often called a "falling off," it will become plain that one can speak truly of seeing and losing sight of a vessel at comparatively short intervals, according to their position relatively to the sun's rays. Aside from all this it will sometimes really happen that ships which have not been within one's horizon will ap- pear and disappear. Even a "dead calm" on the Atlan- tic must not be thought of as indicating that one cannot notice the least little breeze; such an occurrence is Aery rare, however, and of short duration. One generally notices a slight breath of wind, now from one, then from another direction, lasting sometimes a quarter of an hour, at other times longer, even for hours, before it dies away. These little currents are, of course, utilized as much as possible, though the actual progress may be exceedingly slow T , as was for instance the case from noon of the 13th to the evening of the 14th, during which time our ship gained only five miles, it nevertheless shows that the distance between the different vessels will vary from time to time. The current of the waters cuts likewise a great figure, which was particularly the case during the calm just, mentioned, when the currenl was so strong that 102 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE it caused quite an unheaval, during which one could notice a lively curling of the surface. It was likewise during this calm that we experienced the greatest heat of the voyage ; thus, for instance, on July 13th about two o'clock in the afternoon we registered no less than twenty-nine degrees Reaumur in the shade, though the air was clouded. It was a rare pleasure when the temperature fell below twenty degrees either morning or evening. Though I have repeatedly tried to picture an evening in the tropics, nothing can be compared to the imposing majesty of Nature during a thunderstorm, of which I have seen a number; and I shall never forget the wonderful sight of the first one, which left such a deeply-rooted im- pression upon me that nothing will ever erase it from my memory as long as I breathe. To the great joy of everybody the prevailing calm was interrupted during the forenoon of July the fifteenth by a light Eastern breeze, while the air was not oppressive. We had all sails laid-to and our course was S. V2 W. The wind grew less again toward eleven o'clock and complete calm had returned by two in the afternoon. The air was burning hot, as the glowing sun-rays were right above our heads and not a cloud on the sky. The horizon was hemmed in by a light violet-colored fog. We made the best of the situation and passed the time by examining the surrouuding ships, no less than thirteen in number, the movements of which we observed through telescopes. The vessels which were close enough to each other had hoisted their flags and the captain of a Dutch bark was seen to take a boat for the purpose of visiting a large full- masted vessel which was only a very short distance away and belonged to the same nation. The dark-blue Atlantic was as smooth as a mirror and numberless flying fish were jumping here and there out of its glassy surface, and you will form an idea of the calm when I say that it was im- possible for us to decide the nationality of one ship — a black, heavy-laden bark, which was only a mile from us— because there was not enough breeze to unfold its flag. Until about five o'clock everything remained unchanged THE OCEAN VOYAGE 103 but we soon after noticed small white feathery clouds arising on the far end of the horizon; by six o'clock they had grown into large, threatening ones, which covered the heavens. It is astonishing how quickly they will gather and disappear. The sun had just set, giving the atmosphere a rather disagreeable yellowish-red coloring, as if it were the re- flection of an immense fire. Not a breath of air was notice- able; a dull oppressive sultriness was spread over the dark silent ocean, while the night grew darker every minute. Soon we saw Hashes of lightning, followed by the heavy rumbling of distant thunder, and these approached nearer and nearer, and the thunder grew louder and louder. Half an hour after sun-set every color-play of the clouds had completely disappeared, though it was only half-past six, and the darkness grew so dense that one could not see three feet ahead. Then began the rain— and what a rain! The most severe thunderstorm at home will hardly give you a correct idea of that fearful storm; in a few seconds everybody was wet to the skin and the splashing rain could at times be heard above the deafening roar of the thunder. The gale, which accompanied the rain, filled our storm and topsails and sent us rapidly over the wild water-mountains, which were covered with white, whiz- zing foam. Such was the change which had been wrought in a few minutes and the color of the sea had become as black as the sky. The thundering roar of the waves, that threatened ev- ery moment to swamp our trembling vessel, while it was sailing down a mighty wave with lightning speed to slow- ly and laboriously ascend the next one, the torrents of splashing rain, the whistling and blustering of the storm in the squeaking and rattling rigging of the ship, together with the continual rolling of the thunder, formed a con- cert so terrible and imposing that I feel absolutely unable to give you an adequate description of the powerful, last- ing impression which it has made upon me. The eye, too, was treated to sights of impressive mag- nificence. The lightning, with the beautiful diversity of 104 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE its gay colors and the sparkling of the ocean, were never more exquisitely gorgeous during my whole voyage than I saw it on this memorable night. "We had not had a chance of watching this phenomenon since we left the Bay of Biscaya, where I had seen it the first time, but not in the same splendor to which we were treated this night. Every one of the millions of rain-drops which fell into the endless ocean, glowed dark-red like a fiery coal; ev- ery flake of foam in the white crown of the waves ap- peared in purest silver-light, reflecting beautifully in the black sides of our ship. The storm raged, the rain con- tinued with undiminished force until midnight, when the wind changed to South West so that we could steer S. S. E. to South. By daybreak all sails were set again and our progress was rapid though the sea was still somewhat tempestuous. The rain continued all day uninterrupt- edly and we were unable to discover any of the many ves- sels which had surrounded us the night before. During the days following the calm, we had mostly stormy South wind, which drove us close to the coast of Sierra Leone, thereby compelling us to approach the African coast con- trary to our intention. Capt. Meyer told us that hardly one out of a hundred vessels, bound for a destination simi- lar to our own, would have to go so far East. However, these South winds must have been raging for several days, as we met a number of vessels every day which were cruising southward like ourselves. Thursday, the 17th, we passed a pretty, black brig, fly- ing the British flag. Everybody took her to be our old acquaintance from Madeira, the "Euphemia," although we could not make sure of it, as she followed a different course and did not come near enough for us to make her out. Toward evening we caught sight of a bark which, being hardly a quarter of a mile away, had put up the lanterns without taking further notice of us. The Friday following we sighted a beautiful three-masted English vessel, which we, at first glance, took to be a frigate, be- cause of its unusual size, appearance and the superiority of its sails. Great was therefore my astonishment when, THE OCEAN VOYAGE 105 toward evening, at closer range we recognized a whaler with no less than fourteen row-boats on board. I never saw a more handsome vessel in my life. Saturday, the 19th, there was a Light Western breeze. That afternoon at about four o'clock we came within speaking distance of a brig from Apenrade, sailing from Hamburg to Valparaiso like ourselves. We enjoyed the company of this Danish vessel for several hours. Toward evening still another Schleswig-Holsteiner came within sight; it was the Flensburg three-masted "Helen Lou- ise." We were unable to communicate with the latter vessel on account of the approaching darkness. The "Apenrader" had informed us that it had already spent fifty-seven days at sea, i. e., since leaving Cnxhaven' On Sunday, the 20th, we had quite a breeze and appar- ently rain in the air; the "Helen Louise" was on the Western, and the Apenrade brig became barely visible on the Northwestern horizon, though it was yet early in the morning. We sighted the latter once more on the follow- ing day, when she crossed our stern with stormy South- wind and thick cold air. Ou Tuesday, July the 22d, about half-past nine in the forenoon, we caught sight of two barks, which followed the same Southern direction; these proved to be the last vessels which came within our hori- zon for a long, long time. From now on our voyage became exceedingly monot- onous, as we did not see another vessel for fully fifty days; when we first caught sight of one again, it was between Fireland (terra del fuego) and New South Shetland. Until we reached the Southern latitudes, where flocks of wild sea-birds would pass over our heads, onr eyes were not treated to the sight of any other living things except fishes. Our voyage has been marked from the very he- ginning by contrary and unfavorable winds. The North- eastern Monsoon had left us much sooaor than we antici- pated and we had very little of the Southeastern Mon- soon if the somewhat lively South Southeast wind, that came to us from the twenty-fourth to the thirty-first of July, is to be considered as such. 106 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE We passed the "line" on Friday, the twenty-fifth of July, at half-past ten in the evening (22 J 5i' W. L. Green- wich). The day had been agreeably cool; after sun-set, about six o'clock, the air became quite rough and a rain set in. Notwithstanding the unfavorable weather, the sailors were determined to have the customary Neptune- farce. About nine o 'clock there appeared one of them, a funny old fellow by the name of Rainer Splitgen, who was lame of one leg. He wore a mask which converted his face into a veritable caricature; a coarse woollen blanket enveloped his body, while beard and hair of un- conscionable length had been manufactured for the pur- pose out of oakum. A gaily-colored crown of sail-cloth rather disfigured than ornamented the head of the actor, who went along the stern upon the water-stay. He then addressed the ship in the proper manner through a speak- ing-tube with the customary "Bark ahoy!" The Cap- tain himself answered in the usual manner, after which the supposed Neptune inquired as to the name of the ves- sel, the port of embarkment and of destination, all of which were duly answered by the Captain. He then de- clared that he would come on board to investigate, whether everything was in proper order, which he did. He appeared, however, to be of a very ungracious dispo- sition, finding fault with everything and everybody, scold- ing here and there, whereby the man at the wheel re- ceived particularly a full share of Neptune's ill-will. He, of course, gave orders, in a voice which corresponded very well to his exterior appearance. In order to pacify him the Captain invited him at last to take a drink of whisky with him in the cabin, an invitation which he could not decline in such cold and wet weather. Soon after he re- turned with a full bottle of the same beverage, which had been given to him for his "family." With triumphant air he returned whence he had come and disappeared over the bow after assuring us that he would honor us once more with his visit if we would enter his realms by the following night. The subsequent Saturday favored the farce of the THE OCEAN VOYAGE 107 mariners more than the day before, as the weather was more suitable for their purpose of merry- making. We were making good time and enjoyed a cool breeze; flying fish, bonitos and tumblers were visible everywhere, en- joying the pleasant bright day like ourselves. The continued tolling of the ship's bell announced the re-appearance of Neptune about one o'clock in the after- noon. This time, however, he arrived with his whole court, consisting of his wife, who carried an immense rag- doll in her arms, two body-guards wearing red coats and otherwise provided with long wooden swords; three or four personalities in strange fantastic make-up completed the procession. All of them wore ridiculous masks. Im- mediately after arrival Neptune and his pilot commenced the measurements of the vessel, having been provided with an immense octant, built for the purpose by the skilful carpenter, and they then made quite a correct sketch upon a map, which our ingenious sail-maker had provided for them. This map was made of sail-cloth and was, as regards neatness and dimensions, by no means inferior to the carpenter's creation. The equator had been marked by a heavy stroke of the tar-brush. After this part of the program had been accomplished, Nep- tune's secretary delivered a solemn address to the Cap- tain, at the end of which he requested those of the crew to approach, who now passed the equator for the first time. Thus called, two sailor boys appeared who were taken to the front and, after being thoroughly lathered, they received a good shaving with a wooden razor, about two feet in length. After the scraping, which had been done with great ceremony, both boys were given a shower- bath by pouring a bucket of water over the head of each. The onlooking passengers could only escape the fate of the boys by contributing to the drink-funds. The remain- der of the day was a holiday by permission and all work, which could possibly be delayed, was suspended. The crew, as well as the passengers, enjoyed themselves dur- ing the afternoon by all kinds of gymnastic exercises, followed later on by the bowl. The latter example, set by 108 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE the sailors, was followed even by those who had not been active in the gymnastics, I being one of them. We seated ourselves comfortably in the deck-cabin and chatted around the wine and cognac bowl. Notwithstanding the rather mixed elements out of which this original ''hedge- ale-house" assembly consisted, it was happy and har- monious, though there would perhaps have been more hilarity if it had not been for the sufferings of one of our fellow-passengers, a certain Nabholz from Khenish Bava- ria, who had been taken sick about a week before with nervous prostration; this dampened the general merri- ment and gave the whole proceeding a somewhat strained aspect. No one realized at that time that we would be witnesses of a depressing, almost terrible solemnity, with- in two days thereafter. Nabholz passed away about noon on Sunday, the 20th of July. Most of the passengers had the comforting rec- ollection of having done their utmost to relieve him. To do more or even to give material aid was beyond their power— beyond all human strength. Even the physician who had accompanied us hither, could assist the patient very little, as the supply of medicine was so scant that one hardly could get the most common home-remedies, notwithstanding the boasting announcements of the ship- broker. Thus all depended upon the good constitution of the patient, which in this case failed even to respond to the earnest endeavors of the physician. Nabholz be- longed to those unfortunates who are ignorant of the fact that the hot zone is an open grave for Europeans who have previously suffered from a certain class of diseases. These ills will re-appear, though very often under differ- ent form, and death is the unavoidable consequence in ninety-nine out of every hundred cases. Though we all felt quite depressed at the death of Nabholz, we were comforted by the fact that his loss of consciousness at the very beginning of his sickness re- lieved him of that dreadful feeling of loneliness and help- lessness which he would otherwise have felt. His burial took place on the same day, about six o'clock in the THE OCEAN VOYAGE 109 evening. It was a simple, plain, but very solemn affair, which affected us deeply. The remains were enveloped in a woollen blanket, laid upon his mattress and then, true to old custom, sewed up in sail-cloth, after padding the sides with pillows and covering the top with the clothing of the dead man. "When this was accomplished the whole was tied upon a thick board, to the foot-end of which there were attached four pieces of anchor-chain, for the purpose of giving it the required weight. When all prep- arations had been made, the main-top-sails were lowered in order to prevent speed, after which the flags were hoisted half mast, as a sign of mourning. Everybody un- covered his head to say a silent prayer— so it seemed, at least— while the body was lifted upon the quarter- deck-rail. It was a sad solemn moment, when the re- mains were slowly lowered into the bottomless ocean, whose blue billows continued to ripple quite a while after. The whole ceremony had left a gloomy, depressing atmos- phere, when Heaven itself opened its grey, threatening clouds to send a fine, drizzling rain upon the watery grave. The waves rose high, and as far as the keenest eye could note, nothing was discovered which bore life but our lone vessel, tossed about by the roaring waves, while the mourning flags told the sad, sorrowful tale of the day. AVe rested another quarter of an hour as a mark of respect; we then went forward under full sail, parting the foam-crowned waves at great speed and leaving behind us the locality which serves poor Nabholz as a resting- place. No sign by which it may be recognized, as no hu- man foot will ever approach his watery grave. Nabholz had not yet completed his twentieth year when he passed away. On July the 31st we had reached 31° 33' West Longitude and 10° 42' South Latitude. The Brazilian coast between Pernambuco and Sergipe del Rey was the nearest land, and that was about eighty (German) miles away. A wondrously beautiful sunrise— followed by splendid, clear v i ather — made this one of the brightest days we had dur- ing the whole of our voyage. The tropical sun shone in 110 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE the pure, blue heaven above where only here and there a shining snow-white summer-cloud would make a marked contrast ; and notwithstanding the fact that the rays had full sway, the air was cool and pleasant, somewhat like our warm spring-days at home. With all that, we made unusually quick time through the deep, carmine-blue sea, which I never saw as calm as on this day, not even in close proximity of land. Schools of silvery flying fish were playing around us and four nautilus came right alongside our ship; the pretty rose-colored wings of the largest one reaching about three inches above the water. The sun-set following resembled the magnificent sunrise and I saw, what thousands of people who cross the At- lantic will never have a chance of viewing, and what only occurred once during our whole trip, the rare spectacle of the apparent dropping of the sun into water, and not, as is generally the case, setting behind, or surrounded by, fog or clouds. The air remained pure and mild after the sun-set. The soft, beautiful shades of colors faded on the darkening sky, and when night had closed down, I noticed for the first time the brilliant star-pictures of the Southern Hemisphere, developing their splendor on the blue velvety background of the firmament. The stars seemed to compete harmoniously with one another, in which rivalry they succeeded so well that even the small- est of them displayed a brightness which we do not wit- ness on our coldest winter nights at home. The Milky Way particularly attracted the attention of the observer's gaze and the Dipper, the Twins and the beautiful picture of the Southern Cross filled one with wonder. Except- ing Venus— which, though barely within our horizon, dis- plays a brilliancy which compares almost with that of the moon itself— and Jupiter, the brightest star on the Southern Hemisphere; none are more lustrous than those of the Cross. I watched the celestial spectacle from my usual place until very late in the night, unable to take my eyes from the millions of sparkling jewels of the firma- ment; it was particularly the sight of the little Cross which kept my attention and which even the most care- THE OCEAN VOYAGE 111 less observer could not have overlooked. Though small enough to be hidden behind the four smallest stars of the "Great Bear," it shone forth with matchless evenness and splendor. The moon, too, though yet only a crescent at the further edge of the northern horizon, threw out such intense light that the different objects on board would throw their shadow. To give you a correct estimate of the transparent atmosphere in this latitude, I will men- tion the fact that one could actually see the dark part of the disk of the moon with the naked eye; even the differ- ent spots were visible to a keen observer. My description of the thirty-first has been very long-drawn; ought I to apologize for it, my beloved ones? This date brought forth to my memory many a cher- ished recollection of the far away home; is it a wonder that I made this day as well as a few others, a sort of holiday of obligation, holding what may be justly termed a Divine Service, in honor of the past? Man needs such moments to gather strength from the recollections of the past, to meet the requirements of a perhaps stormy fu- ture. If one allows one's mind to dwell on similar sub- jects of meditation but twice in three months, is there reason for being placed in the category of dreamers and illusionists? In imagination I dwelt with you on these two days, from early morning till late at night, though I made also a few visits to others. It is a sad privilege, which the great distance from home, however, permits. I can gather around me all those to whom T am drawn in love, and enjoy their company at the same time. But enough of this! All that is beautiful comes to an end. The 31st of July experienced the same fate and great was our surprise when we awoke the next morning to find a complete calm which had set in after a heavy rain. "We had a little breeze from South Southeast once but it soon changed to South and then slightly West so that, toward nine o'clock in the evening, we could hardly make any headway. The same unfavorable weather, which greeted us on the first day of August, continued almost 112 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE throughout this, as well as part of the next month. It was a hard trial for our patience, our good humor and, I may add, our state of health. Fortunately, I did not suf- fer, but managed to keep myself well, as I assured you at the very beginning of my letter; of course I suffered from tooth-ache once in a while, but that hardly counts for much, or is worth mentioning. After we had reached the South-Western ocean current, which runs along the Brazilian coast from Cape Frio to Cape St. Eoque, which took place on the third of August, the unfavorable weather continued and could have been compared to our disagreeable, damp, fall weather at home. Even the inhabitants of the sea left us, though the water remained clear and transparent; further South we would meet a North-Caper or whaler once in a long while. On the other hand, we now found ourselves daily in the company of sea-birds, sometimes thousands of them. We observed the first arrivals on the fourth of August, when about half a dozen of Cape-Doves put in an appearance. This is a species, which remained with us, following the ship day after day, whether we were close to the shore or not, until we reached Valparaiso. These pretty white birds which accompanied us in large flocks resembled our geese in size and shape but they had very strong, crooked beaks and sharp black claws; their long wings and head as well as tail were speckled with black. The wind was unusually changeable and blew at times from four directions in one day, now light, then again so strong that even the top-sails seemed to be more than sufficient. The breeze was mostly Southern or Western and if it happened once in a while that a more favorable change took place, we were not benefited enough by it to help us very materially in our onward progress. On the con- trary, it often happened that such a change brought with it a roughness which was not agreeable. Notwithstanding the fact that these Northern air-cur- rents caused many disagreeable movements on board, they were welcomed as dispensers of moments of recrea- tion. THE OCEAN VOYAGE 113 On Saturday, the 9th of August, we had quite a heavy thunderstorm accompanied by lightning as early as half- past seven in the morning; on the 10th, 11th and 12th the winds blew at intervals from all directions, with great force, particularly on the first-named day. That kind of weather causes the sailors a great deal of work, as they have to adjust the sails and rigging constantly, now changing them from one side to the other, then repairing this or that one, now setting and then again laying them to. During the whole voyage we had not had as much rolling and cruising as in these few days, although the sea did not go so very high. The first albatross reached our ship on Monday, the eleventh of August, shortly after sun-set. At first we saw but little of these web-footed birds, but the further we went South, the more numerous they became. Flying, the albatross resembles the stork, on account of its snowy plumage and black tipped wings, though there is in re- ality very little resemblance if one looks at it close by. It is generally as large as a swan but has a short, thick neck; its beak is extraordinarily strong, often more than three inches long and crooked like that of a hawk. Mamuris made their appearance next; they closely re- semble the albatross witli the exception that their plumage is quite dark-grey. AYe caught one which meas- ured seven feet from tip to tip. The further we went South the more numerous became the birds; and many beautiful species surrounded our vessel. They are all ex- ceedingly handsome, with an unusually fine and soft, thick plumage. Being exceedingly greedy, one can catch thorn without much trouble with a strong fish-hook baited with bacon. YYe had generally several lines out, if the weather was favorable; and it was by no means an un- common occurrence to see a dozen or more of these pretty birds run about our deck; the peculiar fact is, that these birds can only raise themselves out of the water or man- age to fly from high points. Whenever we got tired play- ing with them we would wind gay ribbons around their necks and retain tliem to freedom. 114 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Valparaiso-Harbor, October the 23d, 24th and 25th, 1851. Having arrived here yesterday (the 22d), I hasten to continue this letter; the pen burns in my hand, for I wish that the message of good cheer, which I now write down, could at this moment be in your hands, assuring you that the hardest part of our voyage is now ended. On August the 15th we caught sight of an immense ' ' Northcaper, " which came close to our ship early in the morning, while we had a momentary calm and bright, pleasant weather. This large fish emerged now and then so that we were able to see its greenish- black back, which measured about twenty feet in length. The next day, August the 16th, at half-past six o'clock in the evening, there was born a son to a former citizen of Berlin, Elwanger by name, an event which was celebrated on the following Monday by raising the flag on that beau- tiful, bright day. Following the light winds on Monday, August the 18th, we were unexpectedly compelled to make the acquain- tance of a storm, such as the Southern Atlantic produces. It struck us during the night, and differed much from previous ones which we had experienced. In our opinion it was so severe that we coulc not imagine anything worse. Now, every one of us has become wiser— as the terrific tornadoes which we experienced dno, left us to believe that the first one, South of the Equator, was, after all, not of so awful a nature, though it was violent enough to un-roof houses and up-root trees on the shore. This storm came from Southwest and was accompanied by a heavy rain; about noon following it had subsided suf- ficiently to permit the setting of sails. On Tuesday, Au- gust the 19th, we had to meet another loss in the death of a passenger, Odin by name, a Saxon, who passed away during the forenoon, having suffered long and intensely from gout and scurvy. There was already the foot-print of the "reaper" upon him when he came on board our vessel, and it is hardly probable that his life would have been prolonged even if he had remained on land. His r. ^ r. Q 2 § ; 05 r C| THE OCEAN VOYAGE 115 remains were turned over to the Atlantic about seven o'clock in the evening, the ceremonies being conducted in the same manner as were those which marked the burial of Nabholz. It was during this hour that the first storm-birds or "Mother Carey's Chickens," as they are generally called, put in their appearance on board. It is evidently more than a Bailor's superstition to connect the coming of these animals with an approaching storm. The mariners take it to be an infallible omen and not without some reason. I made it a special point to observe this strange occur- rence and can testify to the fact that whenever two or three of these rare birds became visible we could reckon upon a heavy storm, which would invariably follow with- in a few hours. So it happened that we had a heavy storm from W. N. W. during the night, which was par- ticularly tempestuous at sun-rise. "We had fastened near- ly all sails and the ship went with great difficulty until the subsidence of the gale about noon-time, made it pos- sible to have more sails set. "Wednesday night, after a short interval, the weather looked again so gloomy and threatening that the rather timely precaution of changing or reducing sails proved to be an exceedingly wise one, as we were witnesses of an- other gale from S. S. W., which made the wind much rougher than the previous one. It did not change until Thursday, the 21st, after it had been raging without the slightest interruption for fifteen long hours. The night between Thursday and Friday passed com- paratively quiet, though the air was cold and disagree- able and the ship worked hard in the hollow of the waves. About noon we noticed some short ends of old ship's-rope driving close to our ship, followed later on by a row-boat, which had evidently belonged to a larger vessel; it was full of water and did not seem to have been in the position very long, but had evidently broken adrift. The air was gloomy and an ice-cold rain fell now and then. About two o'clock another S. S. W. gale struck us, so that we had to change sails again. W^e now followed W. to S. 116 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE until evening, when we again made a change to W. N. "W. This gale reached its greatest fury on Saturday, the 23d, and did not cease until Sunday noon, by which time it had raged full forty hours. From now on we had an oc- casional hailstorm, and between two and three in the afternoon w« had the first, pretty thick snow-fall. The few sails, which were set, had been well reefed. This week— during which we had experienced unusual- ly stormy weather— was but a preparatory foretaste of the experiences which were to be ours when we passed the Cape. The period between Sunday, the 24th of August, and the 3d of September can be covered in a very few words. Encouraged by fresh Western and Southwestern breezes, which were not very stormy in their nature, we made pretty good speed and were sailing closer and closer along the Patagonian coast, follovv T ed by flocks of Cape pigeons and albatrosses. Owing to the fact that we kept close to the coast, the current remained rather quiet and this pe- riod of our voyage would undoubtedly have been one of the most agreeable of the whole trip if the weather had not been so rough and cold, notwithstanding the bright sunshine. What was to have been a pleasant trip was thus spoiled; and though we had not ice enough on board to go skating, there were daily hail and snow-storms, which compelled us to use shovels more than once. We also had quite heavy fogs at times. The day after the last storm there floated reeds and sea-weed in large quantities all around us. On Tuesday, the 26th, we took a new kind of visitors on board in the shape of a hitherto unseen species of sea-birds. As the air was unusually calm, we were able to catch quite a number of them in the previously described manner and had at one time no less than fifteen of them running round the deck; we threw the whole flock overboard as soon as evening came and how they seemed to enjoy the swim- ming again. These animals were somewhat larger than big geese and distinguished themselves by their blue beaks and pale-red swimming webs; their plumage was U ~ THE OCEAN VOYAGE 117 beautifully silver-grey on the back, while head, neck and breast were snow white; the long grey wings ended in black tips. They were undoubtedly the most beautiful swimming fowls we had thus far seen; though dreadfully stupid and greedy, and therefore easy to catch. We only came across this species once more during our voyage and that was on the other side of Patagonia, in nearly the same latitude. Saturday, the 30th, we discovered what the sailors call "fat geese," which, though yet at a great distance, dis- closed to us the proximity of the Falkland Islands; and the 3d of September we were surprised by seeing a tre- mendous whale. Toward evening of the same day we caught a little land-bird, which, tired from its long flight, had fallen on our fore-deck. We all enjoyed the wonder- fully clear moon-light and unusual quiet, and remained on deck till late in the night. Thursday, the fourth of September, was destined to mark another epoch in our voyage. Under a lively West-wind we were able to approach the high coast-mountains of the Fireland (terra del fuego) towards four o'clock in the morning. It forms a large bay between the 66th and 67th degree West longitude. When at last the sun arose it was half-past six. We were within four German miles of land and, as the morning was really beautiful, we greatly enjoyed the sight. The ship now changed its course to the East, following the coast-line. The sight was one of the most beautiful that had ever been presented to my view, and it made upon me a deeper impression than it perhaps would have done, had this not been the first land we had seen in fully two months, or since we left Madeira. The coast of Fireland arises out of the ocean with un- usual steepness, resembling a two to three-hundred foot wall, at the base of which the mighty breakers were roar- ing. Further upward its perpendicular aspect appears to modify slightly, though losing little of its former ab- ruptness. Slowly it seems to join the wild, rooky e<>ast- mountams, the horn-like peaks of which often are prob- 118 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE ably more than fifteen-hundred feet in height. The zig- zag of the many wide cracks, the caves and protruding- rocks, all coated with eternal snow, presented a view most picturesque, and never to he forgotten; and the magnifi- cence of the scene which the early morning sun illumined can only find its equal in the Alps. But, notwithstanding the imposing sight, which I have described, the view is a strangely desolate one, with the absolute absence of vege- tation. Nothing was visible but wildly torn rocks of a reddish brown color, which were inhabited by innumera- ble water-fowl, whose screeching alone would be echoed in the cold, cavernous mountains, where even the native nomad dared to set his foot but rarely. • The surface of the ocean had a dark gray-green color and was comparatively quiet; a Western wind hastened our speed considerably, which naturally brought us new scenery from minute to minute. "We reached Cape St. Vincent soon after ten o'clock and passed it. We had approached shore slowly and were able to distinguish the ever breaking billows at the foot of the Cape. Beginning with this point, we find the chain of coast mountains recedes somewhat into a deep-cut picturesque bay, which enables the eye to enjoy the panorama of the endless snow-fields and ferns of the interior. This bay ends in the east at the point where the noted Cape San Diego appears as a gigantic corner stone of the Strait of Le Maire. This cape protrudes considerably into the sea, almost pointed like a needle and ends in a rock of about three hundred feet high, which hangs most threatening- ly over the breakers, that roar amidst fallen fragments, which, reaching almost a quarter of a mile into the sea, may easily be taken for a dam of gigantic construction. We sailed around this dangerous place at about a mile distant and entered the Strait Le Maire at eleven o'clock. This strait divides Fireland and Staten Island. We kept close to the coast of Fireland, or less than half a mile from the shore. Though the northern coast had offered already a beautiful view, it could not be compared 2 2 U > o £ "5 -J * C i^ ~ C| THE OCEAN \< >YAGE 119 to the wild, torn character which presented itself step by step in the strait of Le Maire. It was truly picturesque. The most imposing spectacle in this region undoubtedly caused by the many little inlets which form a crescent, opening toward the ocean. This spot is called "Bay of Good Success," and seemed to be half a mile wide and deej), marked at its Eastern end by some large mountains of Fireland; and on the South by the Cape of Good Suc- cess. The whole looks like a black, jagged wall of rocks, perpendicular, and often more than a thousand feet high, frequently protruding toward the everlasting breakers of the raging sea. This wall is crowned with immense masses of snow which do not entirely melt away during the summer months; and now, in the spring season of the Southern Hemisphere, • we see immense stalactites of frozen snow hanging everywhere and reaching at times such proportions that they almost kiss the breaking bil- lows. No human foot ever reached this region and not the least vegetation could be discovered by the searching eye. Nothing but a dark volcanic rock, covered by the icy blanket of perpetual snow. The Cape of Good Success itself formed the culminating point, which is the Eastern outlet of the snow-capped mountain-chain with its wild coast-scenery, which make the interior of Fireland so unexplorable. It appears to be about fifteen hundred feet high, a dark, wild and grue- some sight to behold, on the few protruding points of which even the snow seems to have failed to obtain a last- ing hold; the sea is at this point unfathomable. It was on this cape that a Danish bark with many emigrants wrecked, in full view of two other vessels; this occurred during last January. Capt. Meyer told me that the bail; was tin-own but once against the mighty rocks, which proved enough to convert its beams and planks into splin- ters and the one hundred and thirty-six people, who were on board, lost their lives right there. The captain showed me the spot as we sailed past at a distance of about half a mile. \\c left the Strait Le Maire about two o'clock in the 120 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE afternoon and re-entered the wide ocean, soon losing sight of Staten Island, whose inaccessible rocky peaks could only be seen as an indistinct outline above the clouds, while the lower part of the Island, though but four miles away, had been completely obliterated from view by heavy fog. The breeze was quite refreshing but not very strong, and as the weather seemed to be pleasant and quiet, we set full sails and went with South-Southwest wind. Though the coast disappeared more and more from our horizon, it remained picturesque, as before. It was now that the numerous small islands and the rough cliffs, which projected out of the water, forming all kinds of strange figures, would impress one with a peculiar long- ing. The back-ground of this grand panorama was, of course, the mighty chain of snowy mountains. As you may well imagine, I did not allow this rare and favorable opportunity to pass by without making a few sketches, of which I have six, taken from the most inter- esting points of the coast. The magic beauty of the scen- eries was so attractive that I continued my sketching with fingers, stiffened by cold, for which the favorable light and general quiet seemed to recompense me. The opportunity is seldom offered and few will have ever thought of making this use of it. We continued on our quiet journey, somewhat protect- ed by the projecting land, and assisted by more favorable ocean currents, which had hitherto been rather against us, especially in the Strait Le Maire, where the waves reach at times a height of thirty feet, i. e., under ordinary conditions, while it exceeds this greatly in times of storms. During the afternoon the air became heavier and by eight o'clock in the evening the sky was quite cloudy, though the wind remained steady and the sea quiet. We expected to reach the Cape within the next six or eight hours. Nobody of our merry crowd, that passed the evening hours laughing and joking, thought that it would take us yet fully a fortnight to reach the long looked-for Cape. Nor did we realize that we would have to suffer more on every single one of these days than we had during our whole three months' voyage. — ' :- •-• y. - P, * Eh t ~ ■ W ° o w 5 x . = — 'x r< in < -' a r - = i 5 » THE OCEAN VOYAGE 121 By mid-night il was said to have been possible to rec- ognize the Barnavelt Island, which is some six miles from Cape Horn, wheD suddenly a heavy storm broke out of the West. About five o'clock iu the morning of Fri- day, the fifth of September, the gale blew so dreadfully that our jib was lifted out of its encasings and the top- mast-sail tore loose soon after, on which occasion the ship's carpenter, sail-maker and the Chilian apprentice, Lastico, came within an ace of being" thrown overboard. Not until about nine o'clock were we able to loosen the sail of the foremast from its yard and to set it securely. During all the time required for the most necessary re- pairing we were floating at the mercy of the hourly-rising sea. This kind of weather continued all day long, so that it was barely possible to steer South-Southwest. As night approached the storm increased and became so violent about midnight that it fell little short of a hurricane, the waters constantly washing over our deck. The force of the billows grew so powerful toward day-break that it knocked the heavy iron ridges asunder, under which the quarter-boat hung, which, in consequence, rolled upon the deck between the deck-cabin and the mizzen-mast and it took several hours before it was possible to secure it properly again. At another time the storm struck us and tore off the mouldings of the star-board, carrying them away; then again, it went tearing between the fore and main masts. The keen, cutting cold had frozen the rig- ging and glazed the deck and the water-barrels were heavily iced. AVas it a wonder that we made absolutely no headway under the circumstances? For fully twenty- four hours we were compelled to remain with main-top- Bail, mizzen-sail and storm-jib tightly hove to, drifting all the while. Such was our reception at the Cape. Sunday, the seventh, about noon, we were glad that, after the storm had raged for fully fifty-five hours, its force was abated sufficiently to allow us to set the lower sails again, though the wind remained unsteady between Southwest and West. Instead of the sails, we had already 122 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE lost, our men substituted reserve-sails and, as the weather brightened during the afternoon, we heaved out the top- sail, set it and took the course North West to West. The air was cold and large pieces of ice floated on our water- barrels. The weather continued fair on Monday, the eighth, and as it was tolerably bright, we were satisfied though the wind had neither changed in violence nor di- rection, remaining S. W. and W., as during the day be- fore. We kept S. to S. W. and S. W., making the best of our chances. Suddenly there arose another powerful gale from the South, about two o'clock in the afternoon, carrying with it a cutting cold, and much snow and hail; notwithstand- ing which we managed to keep our course West to South until about midnight. From this hour on the storm changed gradually to North-Northwest and assumed such proportions that we were again compelled to take in all sail except the smallest; again we drifted hopelessly while our vessel was constantly under water. To complete our misery, the clouds kept sending us snow and hail— dark, sharp, cutting hail. This continued till Wednesday, the tenth of September. While it is true that the wind con- tinued, even on this day, W. to N. W., accompanied by constant snow, it became possible about noon to again bring our vessel under more sail and its course was changed to Southwest. We then had a chance about three o'clock in the afternoon to see another vessel through the fog. It was a freight-bark, which cruised East-ward, probably bound for Europe ; none but the fore- mast-sail was set out. Soon after this we experienced another ' 'rough sea," which destroyed the pigeon-house that we had standing on deck and washed away a few things, without causing much damage. The sky was thickly clouded when night came and the storm increased but it did not reach its greatest violence until Thursday, the eleventh, in broad daylight; the severe cold again caused plenty of ice to form on board. Early in the morning there was another Joss to be registered, another sail gone which compelled THE OCEAN VOYAGE 123 us to drift all day with but one small bark sail and the well reefed mizzen in a sea truly mountainous and con- stantly breaking over our deck. Another heavy wave broke our mizzen mast about eleven o'clock in the fore- noon and the water came rushing down the steerage in such quantities that our lower bunks on our starboard side were completely under water. The violence of the waves was terrible and the ship suffered to such an ex- tent, causing so much water to come in my own bunk, that mattress and blanket were thoroughly saturated, our deck being sadly in need of repairs. One can only obtain a faint idea of the terrific force of this hurricane, for such I can call it, without scruple, when iTelate the fact of our having on board an iron bar, four inches thick and twelve feet in length, which, as it was lying flat on deck, was suddenly carried away as if it had been nothing but a feather. Our barometer stood all day 5'" below storm, or at 25" 7'". At last, toward sunset, the storm abated so that we were able to set topsail again. The next day— Friday— we found ourselves in a snow-bod, which had fallen during the night, and even at noon there was plenty of it; the sun, though bright, had been powerless to melt it as the cold remained piercing all day with a S. S. W. wind. We kept West by South under well reefed sails. I can very well make a division and call this the second Cape storm, which had so far subsided that we were able to slightly loosen the sails by five o'clock of the same afternoon. We had in all ninety-nine hours of storm which though vary- ing in severity, had actually raged all this time, a fact which is even a rare occurrence in this storm-beaten lati- tude. Saturday, the thirteenth, we had quite a severe North wind and rain, the air, however, being less cold than on the previous day. The sea was still exceedingly rough and the waves broke over our deck as before. We continued Southwest to Southwest by West as the wind would permit us. The weather remained thus somewhat bearable until about half-past ten in the evening when, without the least 124 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE warning or sign, another tornado struck us, coming from South-Southwest with such violence that even the most inexperienced of our passengers marveled that our masts were not carried away; even the captain himself had ex- pected it. As already mentioned this storm caught us at a time when there was absolutely no preparation made to meet it as it came unexpectedly; the barometer did not even fall until we were in the midst of it, when it went down to 25" 2'".— No wonder then that all our sails were set at the time the storm so suddenly broke on us. It was only possible to fasten and secure the sails by the most strenuous efforts of the captain and crew which were greatly hindered by the thick snowstorm and constant motion of the ship. But they succeeded in fastening the top-jib and foremast-sails, though every one of them was more or less damaged or torn. The main sail, how- ever, was doomed. While it still stood the tornado grew fiercer and fiercer and there was danger in every mo- ment's delay; but our captain dared not give the order which was to have saved the beautiful sail made of nearly fifteen hundred square feet of heaviest, strongest sail cloth. All remonstration, all begging proved fruitless. Nobody was willing to risk his life to the imminent danger — for such it seemed. At last there came forth three volunteers in the persons of our sail maker, cook and ship's carpenter— three men, every one of whom had already passed his thirty-fifth year and was a true specimen of a South Sea sailor— these men were ready to risk the hazardous undertaking. They were just going along the main yard, slowly and cau- tiously, when we heard a terrific noise, something like the firing of a cannon. The storm had torn the brand new sail. The carpenter retired, but the cook and the sail maker undertook courageously to save at least part of the cloth; but what could have been accomplished even by the fist of a Hercules under such circumstances? Rag after rag tore away from the beautiful sail and in a quar- ter of an hour there was nothing left except a few tatters, THE OCEAN VOYAGE 125 beaten by the wind. This happened about one o'clock at night. The next thing was another billow of unusual height and momentum, which came dashing over the helm, throwing two sailors from the wheel, one of whom had his left hand crushed; again the mizzen mast broke and with it the rigging, the whole coming down greatly damaged, hat we managed to place it securely. At four o'clock, having raged for fully live hours, the storm sub- sided, taking along about thirty feet of our backboard trimming as a trophy. The wind calmed down quickly about seven o'clock, giving way to the Sunday sun, which shone bright and warm, while we had only a pleasant Southwestern breeze. I hardly ever witnessed a sadder scene than that which oar vessel presented on this morning. It was very cold. The rigging hung in a most dilapidated condition, torn here and there, and again knotted; some of it was lying on deck, which was coated with ice more than an inch thick with the exception of a few spots where the snow- had gathered. Bowsprit, anchor, capstan, in one word, the whole bow of the ship was thickly covered with ice and snow. The masts and tackling were likewise cov- <. red with ice. at least as high. as the spray of the waves had reached, which represented a height at least of twenty to thirty feet. Under the yards, on the ropes and other protruding parts of the running rigging, there were long icicles hanging everywhere. One piece of the broken mizzen mast was lying on deck, while another one fas- tened to the vessel, was trailing along in the water; the sail of the mizzen was on the cabin roof, partly frozen ami partly covered with snow, one end of it reaching con- siderably over hoar-!. Of all the sails there remained only the little bark sail, which was almost useless under the slight breeze and the raging sea. The snow coy deck was seldom crossed by any one this morning, as tie- whole crew was sadly in need of rest after that terrible night's work; everybody was therefore trying to obtain as much comfort in his bunk as was possible under the circum tances. 126 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE The condition of our vessel was a pitiful one indeed and I must really confess that on this day at least I was not free from worries as to our immediate future. Four of our sailors had become disabled, among whom were three who had become seriously injured externally; our brand new sheet iron side coatings had given way and could not be repaired on account of the prevailing frost. Our running rigging was torn or, if not completely so, it was worn out beyond remedy and in this case too the cold forbade any attempt at repairs or renewal. The worst feature of the situation was the condition of our sails, it being truly distressing. Until we reached La Plata the old sails had been in constant use, after which the two topsails, fore and mainsails were replaced by new ones, which had never been in service. But even these new sails had suffered terribly, especially the big topsail, which showed no less than eleven holes, large and small ; that of the fore mast had become so threadbare that one could have easily outlined the sun or the moon from be- hind it. The only consolation in this hour of general dis- tress was to be found in the fact that the body of our vessel had suffered comparatively little, so that the water at the pumps did not amount to much. Thus were we compelled to float till about two o'clock in the afternoon on this lonely Sunday. The vessel was then put in repairs, first by replacing top and jibsails which were set to the light Southwestern wind; after this was accomplished, all hands were ready to fix up the mizzen again, in which we succeeded by seven o'clock; the breeze blew towards the North-North- west. The night between Sunday and Monday, the 15th, was the first one which passed somewhat quietly since we passed the Strait Le Maire. We succeeded in making good time during the forenoon and were even encouraged to set the topsail to West by South. However, when two o'clock came we were again overtaken by a severe storm, accompanied by snow, coming from the South ; the former cutting cold prevailed and this state of affairs continued THE OCEAN VOYAGE 127 till the following forenoon. On Tuesday, the sixteenth, the wind turned again to Southwest. We had bright weather, though it was icy cold and the deck remained thickly glazed with ice all day long. During the night we reefed the big topsail, gaff top, etc., and steered West- Northwest. On Monday, the 17th of September, we again had a change of wind after a calm of short duration. Ve had the great satisfaction of finding the air mild and agree- able, and by six o'clock in the morning the snow and ice, which had covered our ship for days, began to thaw and soon disappeared from the deck as well as from the rig- ging. The dark green coloring of the ocean and the calm of the waves announced again the close vicinity of land. We kept Southwest by South, and made a very satisfac- tory run. Toward eight o'clock we caught sight of a little island rock, Cape Deceit, which is about two German miles from Cape Horn, and in our estimation we must have seen it at a distance of eleven miles. Hardly a quarter of an hour had passed when we beheld the insurmountable peak of the celebrated and much feared Cape itself. YVe kept Cape Horn in view till about four o'clock in the after- noon, after which the thickening air commenced to hin- der observation. "When we had approached the Cape within eight Gorman miles, its immense mass of rocks was plainly outlined on the darkening horizon. At the same time and distance there came a number of promi- nently projecting points of the Hermites Islands plainly within our view. The wind was rather refreshing during the day and turned gradually toward North. We soon shortened sails and about four o'clock we came within a short distance of the Diego Ramirez Islands, a little archipelago consisting of thirty-six large and small islands, which are close together and look like black per- pendicular rocks in the unfathomable sea. The highest points of these islands roughly estimated may be a thou- sand feet above the ocean level; they show clearly the volcano type, are completely barren and covered with 128 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE perpetual snow. The sight of these cliffs, on which the most terrific storms and breakers had beaten during thousands of years past, created a feeling of indescrib- able gloom, uneasiness and sadness, which was rather increased by the immense swarms of screeching alba- trosses, ocean geese and cape doves, which find shelter here by millions. As we were lucky enough to reach these Ramirez Isles by half past six o'clock, i. e., just before dark, at a distance of about four German miles, I could not forego the pleasure of drawing a few sketches, though, upon my word, my fingers became as stiff as the horns of a billy goat. The approaching night made it gradually impossible for us to distinguish the disappearing of the archipelago from our horizon, and the strong breeze drove our ship quickly through the calm waters in a Southwest direc- tion. We had by this time crossed the Atlantic in its wildest dimension and entered upon the waters of the South Sea. I shall now take a short respite and then make a re- view for your benefit of the last few days, to complete this report. Now, since everything is a matter of the past, I am glad to have gone through it. The trials were indeed over- whelming and injurious to the health of every one, but, notwithstanding all privations, I had the good fortune of coming out hale and hearty. It creates quite a sensation while one is sitting in the circle of loved ones around the aromatic tea table and close by the old-fashioned fireplace, to read a well written description of some thrilling sea novel, with its snowstorms, its creaking and breaking of masts, its rat- tling of frozen rigging; and one thus by contrast feels a glow of satisfaction in the warm and cosy homestead. But you will believe me, that to read a description of a tornado, and to actually live through it, are decidedly two very different things, particularly when the scene takes place amidst real snow and ice around Cape Horn. One may experience a profound feeling for all that is THE OCEAN VOYAGE 129 imposing and grand on the wild waves of the ocean or during a storm just below the Equator, but when one has reached the sixtieth degree of South latitude, one is not likely to indulge in mere sentimental or emotional im- pressions. On the contrary, he is more forcibly reminded of the gnawings of an empty stomach, the freezing hands, the ice cold feet and the wet, frozen clothes! It is really not a fable if I tell you that we were actually endangering our lives in our attempts to fetch our scant meals ; they were scant, because it was impossible for the cook to fill the kettles more than half full on account of the terrible rocking of the vessel. The biting frost, the ice coated, slippery deck, strewn with fragments of rope and rig- gings, which were treacherously hidden under half-frozen snow, now and then a rushing billow which saturated one's clothes to the skin— all this having been successfully overcome on the way to the kitchen, we received there the prize of our undertaking— half a cup of tea or coffee ; and then we had to return with it in the same dangerous maimer, and happy was he when the storm only spilled half the contents of his cherished bowl, and it is needless to state that tea and coffee were completely cold by the time we had reached the steerage again. Similar were our experiences at dinner time. The food was invariably cold and too little to satisfy one's craving. In addition to this you may consider the wet clothes, wet feet and hands, the cutting, cold draught of the steerage in which the water would at times be splashing as much as on deck; then figure to yourself the soaking wet mattresses and woollen blankets, which were kept in this state by every new shower wave, the water of which would find its way through the cracks of the deck. Imagine that, whether one sits or lies down, there is absolutely no com- fort, no rest, as the constant motion of the vessel requires as much Btrength to keep these positions as would walk- ing or standing under the same circumstances. You will thus gain a slight conception of our frame of mind during these unhappy days and of our great joy when we had ( Jape Horn behind us. 9 130 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE With all our misfortunes we still have reason to re- joice. As much as we had to suffer, we had at least the satisfaction of seeing some extraordinary sights, which recompensed me at least abundantly for the hardships we had met. There are hundreds of ships sailing around the cape that do not even see land at a distance, while we had the advantage of obtaining a broad day view of the cape as well as of the Diego Eamirez Islands, when we had al- ready made up our mind that it would be our unavoidable fate to cruise the South Sea for weeks only amidst ice and snowstorms. We, too, had sailed a whole day along the romantic coast of the "Fireland" (tierra del fuego) and passed the Strait Le Maire on a bright day, which is in itself an unusual occurrence, as only very experienced sea faring men who know the cape and its surroundings well and who have passed it often will dare to pass through this narrow strait. The only conditions which can tempt them to risk this trip are bright weather and light, favorable wind (by which I mean West and North- West wind) which will enable them to make the run in daylight; otherwise they prefer to sail around Staten Island, foregoing thereby the pleasure of seeing the inter- esting points I have mentioned. Everything seemed to come my way during this long voyage so that, notwith- standing the many hardships and privations, I cannot find much reason for complaint, but rather see good cause for satisfaction. Let us therefore be thankful that my voyage around the cape terminated so satisfactorily. One can safely consider the dangers of Cape Horn over- come as soon as the Eamirez Islands are passed, for the difference between the South Sea and the Atlantic is pronounced in many respects, and it rarely occurs that a vessel which has once reached this point is buffeted back again over the meridian of Cape Horn. The Northwest and West-Northwest winds, which blew during the next few days, compelled us again to take a Southwestern direction till we had reached the sixty-first §1 8* THE OCEAN VOYAC.I". 131 degree of southern latitude. Tlie weather compared to that of the same degree in the Atlantic was far less cold, though more foggy and the stonns were not as severe. The waves were still rolling high, though much more regular than was experienced in the strait which lies be- tween the archipelago off the New South Shetland coast and the Fireland; this strait is hardly ninety miles in width. We must, however, take into consideration the fact that the powerful northern ocean current, which runs along the coast of Patagonia, adds materially to the turbulence of the sea in that region. I remember the picture in Meyer's Universal Encyclo- pedia, well, quite well; it is a perfect representation of facts and even the portraiture of the ocean has not at all been exaggerated. The waves reach an almost incredible height; I have seen them roll up many a day, reaching a fluctuating line that would easily measure twenty-five or thirty feet from the foot to their highest curve. The ''lambkins," as the sailors often call the splashing crowns of foam, are frequently from sixty to seventy-five feet long and twenty to thirty feet wide. Just such little "lambkins" knocked in our ship's waist and broke our mizzen mast. When we tried to set our main sail on Friday, the 19th, the yard broke right off, probably in consequence of dam- age which it had sustained before because the prevailing breeze, though strong, did by no means blow hard enough to warrant such an occurrence. The loss was soon re- placed by the fore yard; of course we had to do without sail on the fore mast. "We kept the southwestern course without much interruption until Monday, the 22d, when an immense whale came within a quarter of a mile of our starboard; it. measured at least eighty to ninety feet in length. It had become necessary for us to seek the wide ocean, partly on account of the storm, partly on account of the close proximity of dangerous trap cliffs, which are quite numerous on this coast. What retarded our progress most at the present stage was the extremely poor condition of our sails and rigging, which, as already 132 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE mentioned, needed, under the circumstances, the greatest care in their handling. Commencing the twenty-second we steered Northward. The weather continued to be somewhat rough and the wind blew from the North and Northwest, bringing with it a good deal of rain; and these northerly winds did not leave us until the twenty-sixth. About noon on this last named date the air clouded visibly and soon after we took occasion to rejoice in a heavy snow fall which in these regions is taken as a good omen for favorable wind, as the North wind brings warmth and rain but no snow with it. Our hope had not deceived us as a good South wind came up toward five o 'clock, enabling us to turn N. N. W. This favorable change continued throughout the night and well along Monday morning, thus helping us con- siderably as we had kept full sail all the while. We had also occasion to hail a South Sea hunter but could not understand each other. A snowfall, probably the last one on this journey, changed the atmosphere slightly. Monday, September 29th, was a playday for the winds which seemed to chase each other from and into all direc- tions. The crew made good use of the leisure hours by mending torn sails and replacing the ones that had be- come dangerously storm-beaten. The large mainsail had suffered much and our men worked diligently to make it sea and ship shape. After dark the wind settled once more in the "West and a heavy storm came up. How thankful we were to have repaired our sails, as the wind gave us more and more concern. It broke the fore yard (which was fully sixty feet long and eighteen inches thick) in two like a match; this hap- pened about four o'clock in the morning of Tuesday, the thirtieth. The rejiairs thus made imperatively necessary took all day and delayed our progress considerably. We fortunately found in the reserve hatch an old damaged but large yard, which was put into service after having been placed in proper condition by attaching small se- curity planks and winding a strong rope around the weak ■J. = O ,,, o I 9 2 5 d THE OCEAN VOYAGE 133 parts. As the vessel was laboring' heavily through the hollow sea, and the rain being much in evidence, it was quite a difficult task to bring this heavy yard in place and in ship shape condition for sendee, aud night had already set iu when the last finishing touches permitted its re- newed use. The fore topsail was set once more. On Wednesday, the first of October, as early as one o'clock in the morning, there came a heavy rainstorm which de- stroyed our jib for the second time; as soon as the sun had risen this was replaced by a brand new sail and again set agoing. Toward evening "we again made our bill without consulting the host" and this happened quite often during our voyage. We were steering toward the coast, thinking that the next morning would find us close to the Bay of Corral, which in reality is the harbor of Valdivia. But we were once more to be disappointed as the wind turned North and continued thus with steady showers until about noon of Saturday, the fourth, which compelled us to cruise once more. We were so thor- oughly disappointed at not seeing the Harbor of Corral as we expected, that neither the sight of three immense whales nor the reappearance of a few flying fish were able to dissipate our bad humor. But we had not seen the worst. About one o'clock we were once more in the midst of a heavy Northwest storm, bringing with it hail, thunder and lightning. As quickly as possible the jib, main, top and mizzen sails were secured and the vessel went West-Southwest. Hardly had we changed the course when lightning struck the water about 150 to 200 feet from our ship side, followed by heavy thunder bolts. In the evening we had lightning in the West. Though the storm abated during Sunday, there was little change in the air until Tuesday, the seventh. We were all in bad humor. It was really enough to vex anyone. During a whole week we had been close to our destination, and yet we had never made more than a day's journey and had even seen land Men- day morning at nine o'clock, some three miles away. About five miles from Cape Carlos there was a high 134 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE pointed elevation which prevented our entry at the time, but we had to be thankful to God for being permitted to sail in close proximity to the coast. The weather became more favorable on Wednesday, the eighth, when the wind settled in the West, blowing more regularly, while the sea calmed considerably and the air brightened. We pressed the sails hard all day long so that our larboard was constantly under water. We had yet a few showers during the afternoon, which ended about six o'clock, followed by a magnificent, com- plete double rainbow, which exhibited a beautiful variety of harmonious colors, the like of which I have never be- fore witnessed. The air became bright and mild, the wind turning Southwest, which made it comparatively easy to set full sails for land. The night, enlivened by beautiful moonlight, aided our purpose greatly. In order to avoid an untimely arrival we made another little trip, just enough to fill out the time from eleven in the evening to two o'clock in the morning. The horizon was clear until daybreak, when a light fog set in. When five o 'clock came it was sufficiently bright and clear to recog- nize the high coast of Chile, which was about four miles from our vessel in East-Northeastern direction. We now sailed slowly along the high and rocky coast, which was covered with an impenetrable primitive forest down to the sea level, until we reached Cape San Carlos by one o 'clock. While it is generally necessary to give the cape a wide berth, we were fortunate enough to pass right around it, and half an hour later we were at anchor, a quarter of a mile from Fort Corral, in one of the most beautiful and picturesque harbors of the world. One hundred and twenty days and ten hours and a half had passed since we weighed anchor in Cuxhaven. It was with a strange, indescribable feeling that I first trod upon American soil. I slowly ascended the narrow path among the steep rocks, which led from the beach into the Chilean village Corral, but while my comrades dispersed to find wine, bread and cheese in the cottages I continued my way into the forest covered mountains. Q > 2 — - 2q THE OCEAN VOYAGE 135 My path with the dried-up bed of a mountain or forest stream, a deep cavity between mossy walls, on which wild climbers would run up and down, swinging their gay flowers back and forth in the evening air. Every step in this rocky wall gave me indescribable delight, so that I made for myself a path through weeds and bushes of fuschias, which were seemingly determined to oppose my progress the higher I went. When I had reached a height of about four hundred feet above the sea I stopped and sat down upon the stump of an old laurel tree, which was covered with moss. There at my feet lay the harbor in which I counted ten barks and one three-masted vessel, all Chileans; all were at anchor and further away was our "Victoria." To my right there reflected the beautiful evening sky in the mir- ror-like mouth of the Rio Valdivia, between the high Fort of Niebla and the charming island Mansera, the tree covered mountain peak of which was only surpassed in height by the snow-capped peak of the Volcano of Villa Rica, which showed light smoke; to my left was the open- ing of the harbor; between mountain forests and the rocky coast of the South Sea could be plainly seen as far as Cape "El Molino." The coast mountains, some six hundred feet high and covered with thickly set trees, were under the spell of profound silence, as even the screeching of the parrot could but rarely be heard. Everything was solemn and qniet. Had it not been for the approaching darkness I surely would not have thought of returning; even then 1 did so reluctantly, by the way through the arroyo bed. While Criinhagen and I were awaiting the boat of the "Victoria," we accidentally met Don Rafael Asenco, the port master, who drew us into an English conversation. The man must have takes a liking to us as lie asked as !■> he his guests the same evening, an invitation which we thankfully accepted. We appeared at the proper time to find five or six Chilean sea captains and two French- men. The ladies present, among whom the three daugh- ters of Sefior Asenco, spoke only Spanish. Notwithstand- 136 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE ing this I spent a very pleasant evening as I could any- how talk to some of the captains either in French or English. There was dancing and singing with guitar ac- companiment, all with doors and windows open, which are only closed in times when people do not wish to receive visitors. The night was mild and when I returned about mid- night to Capt. Sanlar's gig my whole voyage with all its disagreeableness seemed but a past dream. While we were gliding along the mirror-like bay, the beautiful, silvery, full moon dipped its shining light into the silent waters and the dark forest threw its quiet shadow about, while we returned on board the "Victoria." Such were the first few hours which I spent upon American soil. The kind hospitality which I found upon my arrival in a foreign land left a lasting impression and served as a good omen. During the following two days we had many visits from Germans of Valdivia, which did not interest me particularly. I preferred to tramp and climb on the beach and in the mountains, notwithstanding the fre- quent showers. The weather became pleasant and steady about the Sunday following. The night before was marked by the departure of those passengers who desired to remain in Valdivia and as I was very anxious to see that city I joined the travelers, among whom was Griin- hagen. We rented a boat and the five of us, accompanied by a young merchant named Uhtemann, who had been in Valdivia about a year, left the "Victoria" at nine o'clock in the morning of Sunday, the twelfth. Our way led up the broad and deep Rio Valdivia, which bears the name Calla-calle after passing the city. The high rocky banks are covered with impenetrable forests which rarely show a mark of ax or fire. Here and there in caves we saw scattered a few huts and block-houses, the dwellings of Chilean wood choppers (peones) or of newly immigrated German colonists. Further up and particularly begin- ning where the Rio Graces empties its waters into the Valdivia, about three-fourths of a mile below the city, « w n o H U . Oj '- c a -• ~ 4* ^ = x :-. : J q THE OCEAN VOYAGE 137 the country becomes more level, while the coast cordillera seemingly runs aside from the river bed; however, one sees neither here nor in the immediate vicinity of the city cultivated ground worth mentioning, as in most places nothing has been done but rough tree cutting, whereof the stumps remained standing. About one o'clock in the afternoon we arrived in Val- divia. The town did not impress me as being particularly foreign in its build. There were about two hundred and fifty to three hundred one-story wooden houses scattered in disorder, mostly covered with shingles, rarely with straw; few had glass windows. The streets were all with- out paving or grading and ran up and down, owing to the fact that the town is built upon uneven ground. Most houses have some kind of a nursery attached, which like- wise contains a few vegetable and flower beds; rose bushes and apple trees were already in full bloom. The whole place bore the appearance of a large primitive village. We remained in Valdivia until Monday and met great hospitality among the German residents. While they do not put themselves to any particular trouble for one's sake, their hearty welcome makes you feel quite at home. There are a great many Germans in Valdivia, who show signs of wealth in a comparatively short time, particu- larly the artisans. However, they do not live altogether in harmony with their Chilean neighbors, whose truly Spanish tenderness and ease is often met by characteris- tic German' severity and firmness. Politically they re- main non-partisan, but they have established a so-called citizens' guard of their own in order to maintain neces- sary watchfulness and secure to themselves protection in these days of unrest. They have even succeeded in maintaining a guard in the government building. The militia of the natives, which is at present in arms throughout Chile, is as comical looking a sight as you can possibly see. The whole company goes bare-footed, their uniforms which are made after the old Prussian pattern, are blue, trimmed with red, over which they 138 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE wear the " poncho," the national garment, which con- sists of a square, gay colored woolen blanket. This blanket has a slit in the middle, through which one puts his head. The "poncho" is considered by Germans and natives alike a very useful article, particularly when on horseback, as it is not only comfortable and warm, but of so closely woven material that the rain does not penetrate it. We left Valdivia on Monday, the 13th, after having explored every point of interest; it only took us about two hours to reach our vessel again, as we had four able native rowers. The weather remained favorable, as I have already stated, and it seems almost unnecessary to assure you that I made good use of my limbs, as you are perfectly aware of my love for excursions, particularly when trips into a mountainous, region are so easily accomplished as they are here. Whenever we wanted to visit some point of interest, unapproachable by land, we would row along the shore of the bay, and thereby attain our object. At other times I would just take it easy by lying down in the boat and, like a ferry man, await a chance to take a, parcel ashore, which often took me across the bay to the islands Niebla or Mansera, which, though about half a German mile distant, did not even tire me, when T had to make my way against flood and wind. The harbor was originally well fortified by the Span- iards but now both forts and batteries are very much neglected and I doubt if one would be able to find a dozen old iron guns which could be pressed into service. The buildings are, for the greater part, neglected and covered with moss and climbers ; they are in many in- stances mere ruins of which one sees quite a number all around the bay. The little isle Mansera, which is exclusively inhabited by Chileans, has the ruins of a monastery, which are indeed very picturesque. Corral is a poor mountain village with only two Ger- man residents, the Klix brothers, one of whom has a little store in the village, while the other one owns a saw mill on the road to the fort. Outside of the few THE OCEAN VOYAGE 139 village streets there is only one single road which may be called practicable; it leads along the bank of the bay toward the old Fort San Carlos. All communica- tions are sent either by water or over the narrow trails of dried up mountain creek beds, such as I described before. The climbing in these mountain paths is by no means an easy matter for the uninitiated, as the rolling pebbles cause one to slip, if not steadied by climbers, which, in turn, have to be cut or cleared to make prog- ress possible. Every now and then one has to crawl along over and sometimes even under rocks or fallen trees, wade through wild mountain streams or cross a primitive bridge of joining branches, below which a chasm or cave of unknown depth may be hiding. Often these places are covered with fuschias of all kinds, below which one sometimes hears the falling of the waters from rock to rock. No matter where I went the sur- roundings presented about the same picturesque char- acter, though scarcely two places were alike; the change of scenery was truly magnificent. The excursions by water were no less entertaining than those by land, particularly those undertaken on the brilliant moonlight nights, when we rowed along the grayish coast rocks, from which the bushes often touched our boat, while the splashing of the oars was the only sound that disturbed the universal and pro- found silence of the southern night. During my stay in Corral I had little desire to enter the habitations of men and it is for that very reason that I have learned very little of either. The Chileans, i. e., the men, have well shaped features, dark or black, thick beards, curly hair and beautiful black eyes, which har- monize well with their dark complexion. The women, on the contrary, are rather homely, almost all short and stout, and old matrons at thirty. Even 1 1 1 * * young girls are not to my taste, though it cannot be denied that their fresh, round faces, their burning eyes and beau- tiful black hair are great attractions. I have had the opportunity of seeing a girl of slender build but once, 140 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE though I can say of her without endangering my con- science—she was pretty. My meeting with her in the ruins of Mansera was of short duration but nevertheless romantic, if not adventurous. The Indians are easily distinguished from the Chile- ans, and they are mostly to be found among the work- ingmen. They belong to the nation of the Araucans, are of small stature, reddish-brown; their faces are flat and homely, and their hair is straight and black, hang- ing disorderly upon the shoulders. Their garments do not differ much from the others. The houses in Corral are all built of wood, except the halls of the fort, which are of adobe brick, but like everything here— lacking in cleanliness. One generally steps from the street right into the sitting room, which in many instances is only partly floored. Windows are only found in two houses, Asenco's being one of them. Even the more pretentious ones have a very plain selec- tion of furniture and rarely anything but tables and chairs; cupboards, dressers, bureaus and the like are nowhere in sight. One-half of the room, nearest to the window, has a more or less elegant carpet, reserved for the women, who cower upon it all day without the least occupation, unless it be to keep the fire going in cold weather. Alongside of our vessel is anchored the bark "Joven Julia" from Valparaiso, whose captain, Rickmess, a native of Hamburg, visited us quite often. "Whenever we went on an excursion he would go with us; and the remembrance of this kind old man will not be effaced as long as I live. Whenever there was an opportunity I inquired about conditions in Chile, and especially in regard to foreign settlers and shall complete, my investigation as I go along. On Friday, October the 17th, we received on board eight new passengers for Valparaiso, three of whom went in the steerage, the others being cabin passengers. Among the latter was a Chilean artillery captain, a for- THE OCEAN VOYAGE 141 mer commander of Osomo, who, being a state prisoner, was escorted on board by soldiers. After a rest of nine days in this magnificent harbor, we weighed anchor on Saturday, the 18th of October. No matter how destiny may shape my future in Amer- ica, I shall always cherish a happy remembrance of Corral and its paradisiacal surroundings. We started at nine o'clock with a light "West-South- "West wind and passed Cape El Molino about half-past twelve, and were once again in open sea. It was our good fortune to have a brisk South wind which filled our sails and hurried us along the coast, which we did not lose sight of during the entire day. Toward even- ing we observed the snow-capped volcanos of Villa Eica and Osorno. There is hardly anything to be told of our journey to Valparaiso, as the mild, warm weather and the quiet ocean with an agreeable Southern breeze afforded very little variety; in fact, one might almost as well have made this trip while asleep. On "Wednesday, the 22d, we reached the Bay of Valparaiso about daybreak. We then steered under full sails right into the bay, but re- ceived a setback at nine o'clock, when overtaken by a complete calm which compelled us to call for tow boats as we were still a mile from the place where anchoring seemed desirable. The weather was warm and pleasant and while we moved along at snail's pace one could follow the magnif- icent panorama presented to our view which gradually became more and more distant. The center of this splen- did scene was the city of Valparaiso itself, which is bnilt on a terrace; and it appears the more picturesque as the sky-high, snow-capped Andes form an incompara- bly beautiful background. "We anchored about one o'clock in the afternoon, a quarter of a German mile from shore, and in the midst of about three hundred merchant vessels and men-of- war, which surrounded us very closely. At present I am unable to write much about Valpa- 142 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE raiso as I went ashore yesterday, the 24th, to present my letters of recommendation, spending the remainder of my time in writing letters, as the mail is going out to- morrow and all letters are to be handed in today. They will go with the Royal Mail Steamer to Panama and from thence to Europe. I can see that boat right close by; the next mail will go within another month's time. The main thing has been accomplished; you will know on receipt of this that I have arrived here in good health. It will be my lot and is my determination (as I am ready and filled with courage) to meet in America whatever the future may have in store for me. I have made many inquiries about San Francisco, both here and in Valdivia and strange to say the reports are very contradictory even from people who have come from there but a short while ago. I have therefore decided to investigate for myself, caring little for favorable or contrary information. There is, unfortunately, little chance of continuing the voyage to San Francisco on board of this vessel and we — i. e., seven other passengers and myself— will have to embark in a strange boat. Probably we shall have to remain here a few weeks and if this proves to be the case, I shall write again for the next mail. Should we, however, get a chance to set out sooner, which would be a surprise indeed, then you will receive my next letter from San Francisco. Do not therefore set your heart upon another letter before four months. You will in all probability have heard that San Francisco has been visited by two conflagrations, one in May and another one in July, destroying a greater part of the city. I now hasten to close this letter, as the time is growing rather short. How much I would have liked to know that this letter will be in your hands at the time of your birthday, my dearest, most beloved mother, but this will be an abso- lute impossibility. I would have been so happy in giv- ing you this pleasure, knowing that you who love me so tenderly and unceasingly, would have rejoiced in nothing more than in the thought that your boy is well THE OCEAN VOYAGE 143 and in good spirits. You will know it a few days later and the joyous tidings which I intended for your birth- day will reach you by New Year's or on the birthday of my darling sister Mary. If the truthful assurance that I am filled with happy courage and confidence in my future success as well as in possession of as great a mental and physical strength as I ever enjoyed or would have enjoyed at home, can have the guiding and sooth- ing effect upon you that it ought to have, I will give it from the bottom of my heart. Now, farewell! All my dear ones at home! I would have liked to add a few words of love and friendship to many a one, but it was not possible. You, my dear father, will find a few words of special nature in the inclosure. It is hard for me to tear myself from this letter but— it must— it must be! Good bye, all you who love me and who think of me in kindness! Good bye! (signed) Frank Lecouvreur. The Apenrnde Brig entered just after I closed this letter; it is the same which we met on July the 19th. I reopened the letter quickly to mention this. I am unable to send the sketch which I promised you, as the time is too limited. Fr. L. C. Valparaiso Harbor, the 12th of November, 1851, on board of the Hamburg Bark "Victoria," (/apt. Meyer. My Dear Parents: You will have received my last letter, No. 9, measuring so-and-so many yards, which I forwarded by the Panama steamer on the 26th of Octo- ber through caTe of Bartsch in Hamburg, and today I seat myself again, pen in hand, in order to spend the last day which I shall probably stay on board of the "Victoria" by writing to my dear ones. I see already that it will be my greatest pleasure here in America to chat with you. 144 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE But before I go into details about my sojourn here, I must thank you most heartily for the great pleasure which your letter No. 7, of July 19th has afforded me. I cried like a child when Capt. Meyer brought it to me in the afternoon of the 30th of October. Since then I have always carried it around in my pocket; I read it daily, at least once until I know it by heart. It quiets, it pleases me greatly that you all have kept well, especially that the health of my dear Mary is im- proving. May Providence grant that she recover com- pletely and that I may not be able to recognize on my return in later years, in the healthy, robust " Madam Moritz" the pale, delicate girl I left— my sister— my darling sister, she will remain forever! The letter, which bore on the outside a greeting from Louis Dubois, Ham- burg, August 12th, I received through Franz Hallmann, to whom it had been sent by Wachowski from Santiago. Thus may the delay be explained, as it has made the voyage from here to the capital and back. As you know, we are here since the 22d of October, during which time I have uninterruptedly boarded and roomed on board. As Capt. Meyer has kindly offered free use of his boat to the passengers, in order to ferry us ashore and back as often as we desired to make use of it, I have had little chance of spending money, though I quite often strolled round on shore a whole day at a time. If we had not had the use of the boat I would probably have been able to take but few trips ashore, as the ferrying across is a very costly operation ; if one has to depend upon the lit- tle ferry boats, which are rowing around the harbor for that purpose; each of such trips costs two reales (10 Silbergroschen), back and forth, therefore more than 20 Slbgr. in Prussian money. All other prices here are in proportion. In the eating houses no smaller coin than a real is known. A glass of ordinary Chilean wine, a cup of tea, chocolate or coffee, a glass of cognac-punch, yes, even a glass of ordinary corn brandy costs one real (5 Slbgr.). If one wants to have a somewhat respectable meal, one is compelled to pay at least three reales. A THE OCEAN VOYAGE US game of billiard costs two reales; an hour of bowling in a fairly good alley means one peso (8 reales) and so on. Even the ordinary bread— none but wheat bread is known here— is enormously high, twelve little loaves, the size of 2 pfennig ( ' -e) biscuits cost one real. If (as I wrote to you) Valdivia has absolutely failed to leave a foreign impression upon me, Valparaiso has abundantly made up for it. The city extends about half a German (1 '/& Eng.) mile in a northerly direction, along a deep bay, is crescent, shaped and built upon the narrow beach, which is often less than 50 yards in width, lying between the steep, majestic coast mountains, the Cor- dilleras, and the niveau of the ocean, partly in the moun- tains, so that, observed from the bay, the whole looks like a ten-ace, built along the foothills and sides of the mountain range. Thus even nature divides Valparaiso into two parts: the lower and the upper city: (1) the city of wealth and (2) the city of poverty; of extreme luxury and pomp, of wide, well paved streets with mag- nificent stores and residences and steep, crooked, rocky mountain alleys between low, miserable huts; below, the splendid carriages and the glittering of silk dresses; above, the climbing of half-fed donkeys and mules, and half-naked women and children, tramping in mud. The only things which the upper and lower Valparaiso have in common are the mud during the rainy season, and the endless dust in summer time; innumerable barking dogs, fleas of immense size and bedbugs during all sen SOUS. The lower city is built in Italian stylo, light but ele- gant. The houses are mostly two-story, built with large 1 adobe bricks, as more solid construction is inadvisable on account of the many earthquakes, which have left their marks on nearly every building, by large and small cracks. The upper story is generally provided with an extensive balcony, running the full length of the house and having elegantly stained-glass windows; and on the east side of the city, where the beach fonns a beautiful valley, we find the houses built like squares and the in- 10 146 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE side court converted into pretty little gardens which look like jewel boxes. The streets— this term is only applicable to the lower city— are partly paved with stones, though the sidewalks have cement paving, and others are badly or not at all graded, as is the only plaza in Valparaiso. Only the most important business streets have lights. When the Spaniards founded Valparaiso amidst green mountains, the name " Valley of Paradise" was prob- ably well chosen, but now— it is called thus inappropri- ately. The surrounding hills at present merely show naked, red rocks, covered here and there with desert weeds, intermixed with large cacti, presenting an un- usually sad view, as the eye can nowhere rest upon a spot of agricultural beauty, nay, not even a tree. Trees are only to be found in the scattered gardens of the east side. Of fruit trees we see mostly olives, figs, peaches and apricots but rarely apple and plum trees. All of them bear already pretty large fruits, which are ripen- ing rapidly. There are many beautiful summer-houses of roses and vines, together with those of passion flow- ers and other climbers, which are now in full bloom. One can pick roses all the year round, fresh from the bushes. As far as amusements are concerned one finds Val- paraiso to be an American city, i. e., the like is not known here. The first glance upon the topography of the place shows clearly that whoever goes about in these streets is not seeking pleasure but hard cash. There- fore Valparaiso has only one theater and one large pub- lic garden (Apolanco) where they have concerts on Sim- days; this resort, however, has not nearly the size of the "Exchange Garden" in Konigsberg. The busy life in the harbor affords me more pleasure than that on shore. I therefore have remained most of my time of late on board, in order to watch the fun. Particularly beautiful is the sight on Sundays of the many merchant and other vessels when all masts carry their gay flags— English, Brazilian, immense Dutch THE OCEAN VOYAGE 147 three-mast vessels, small Chilean schooners, Hamburg, Peruvian, Italian, North American, Spanish, French, Bolivian, Danish, Swedish, Liibeck and Prussian vessels are there in gayest mixture. The farthest from shore are the warships, a North American, an English, a Chilean and a Spanish Fregatta, two Chilean and a French gunboat, all stationed here; besides these I have seen in port during our stay a French 24-gun man-of- war, an English fregatta with 56 cannon and a steam corvette of the same flag. The American man-of-war is a magnificent new vessel with 62 guns. On board of the latter and of the English boat are bands of music which delight us every night with really fine concerts; they play mostly well known airs, European dances, among which 1 heard to my great surprise the ''Flora Gallop." These melodies can be heard far away in the pure, calm night air of the quiet harbor until the thundering of the batteries from the war vessels and the returns from the beach announce the ninth hour. Suddenly everything stops, silence reigns; not a boat glides over the waters of the bay, which plainly shows the outlines of the dark, silent ships resting upon its mirrored, placid bosom. Only here and there, may be seen a lonely light, which throws its ray through a narrow window of some cabin. Fairy-like is the appearance of the city after dark— a sea of lights ascending in terraces and zigzags along the dark, bare mountains. During our stay we have had so far two earthquakes and one revolution. The first earthquake was so insig- nificant that I never noticed it, while I became quite conscious of the second one. It took place on Sunday, October 26th, at 6:15 p. m. I was on board, sitting on a bench in the deck tent. The shock raised me a few inches from the bench and its noise may be likened to the rattling of a dropping anchor chain of a large ves- sel. Our ship actually trembled for several minutes. The revolution was more serious. You will probably have received news of it in Europe and I do not doubt that the details of causes of the outbreak of October 28th 148 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE have been given better than I could if I attempted the task. As usual, the day was warm, bright and pleas- ant, and there was absolutely nothing that could forbode an extraordinary occurrence, until the rumor gained credence that insurgents had surprised the regulars and taken possession of about one thousand guns, a few light weapons and ammunition. This occurred at four o'clock. Regulars and militia were at once called in, and the lively street fight began at half past four in the lower city. Small firing was commenced in all seriousness on either side and continued until six o'clock, when the "crusaderos"* had to vacate the barracks which they had previously taken and they slowly retired into their caves and hiding-places of the upper-town. The fight grew now very serious as larger fire-arms had to be put into use on either side, which, however, enabled the regulars to gain but little territory. Meanwhile it became evident that the "crusaderos" had few or no leaders, as they re- tired slowly toward the fortress which protects the har- bor-entrance, thereby coming, about eight o'clock, within reach of the big guns, which caused them to disband rap- idly. The men-of-war remained absolutely quiet, only send- ing a few boats full of armed men ashore for the protec- tion of their respective consulates. About five o'clock the English man-of-war got up steam, and weighed one of its anchors and the other English vessel towed in or- der to turn its batteries to face the city. Lanterns ap- peared in the evening along the deck-side, where the can- non stood. The night passed quietly with the exception of the plundering of a small arsenal on the east-side of the city. My private opinion is, that peace will not be of long duration even if La Monte would be able to defeat the "crusaderos" completely, which, according to some, is already an accomplished fact. The hatred of the lower classes is too great. *"Los Crusados," followers of Crnces, the rebel candidate for President. THE OCEAN VOYAGE 119 Since we are at anchor in this harbor, already three vessels with state-prisoners have left for the Strait of Magellan, where Chile possesses a colony for criminals, called "Fort Famine," and the rumor has gained cre- dence, that the insurgent-prisoners, who arc mostly sen- tenced to five or ten years of deportation, have simply been shot as soon as the vessel reached high seas. Neither do I consider this charge unreasonable, as I have been an involuntary witness of a transport of eight corpses, which fishermen found last Monday (day before yester- day) in the Bay not far from shore, all with stones, at- tached to the neck by ropes. These were recognized as members of the band of insurgents who had evidently been drowned to make short process with the prisoners. Such deeds are enough to arouse the cooler blooded: how much more the hot-headed Chilean. If, however, the excitement were only headed against La Monte and the ruling party, the foreigners could watch the whole matter quietly, but that is not the case. The lower classes hate the English and the Germans unto death, and I am convinced that they are only awaiting an opportunity in order to give vent to their hatred. It has come to the point that no foreigner dares to go after dark to the up- per-town, except in company and well armed; even the less frequented streets of the lower-town are not consid- ered safe. This state of affairs cannot possibly last long and, until complete order will have been restored, I shall advise nobody to emigrate to Chile, particularly if it be hiB intention to settle in the interior. Matters will un- doubtedly be carried to a very dangerous point. The hatred against the English (and the natives seem unable to distinguish between English and Germans) has been fanned anew by a very queer incident. A few weeks ago it occurred that a partisan of Cruces of Coquimbo took possession of a small steamer, belonging to La Monte. As the latter could not possibly s^ot hold of it again, he de- clared it outlawed. The English frigate ''Thesis" hap- pened to be stationed in Coquimbo and undertook to profit by the announcement by forcibly taking possession of 150 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE the steamer, and after forcibly taking it from the "Cru- cists" they, the English, brought it hither to Valparaiso under protection of the English flag and cannon. Under existing circumstances there is no possibility of obtaining employment here in the near future, as busi- ness and traffic in general are as dull as we experienced them at home in the year 1848. I shall therefore go to San Francisco, contenting myself for a while with steer- age-meals and tea, quietly awaiting what the future may have in store for me. It is true that one does not hear California affairs well spoken of, but almost every Ger- man here who has spent more or less time in San Fran- cisco assures me from his own observation that perse- verance, thrift and luck will still enable one to lay some- thing aside. The circumstances in which my informants are living bear witness to the truth of these assertions. Not one of them has returned from there empty-handed and many of them did not hesitate to say that they had wasted time and spent much money foolishly. Thus I ask you not to believe for one moment that I have lost my courage; on the contrary, I feel quite well, and ready to bear all the burdens of a life of work, as I have it undoubtedly before me. More than ever before do I understand the value of health and work; as I re- gained possession of the former after waiting a long, long time and have missed the latter for nearly half a year. Do not worry; I shall make my way. America is a coun- try after my taste. The ''Aurora," on board of which I shall continue my voyage, is a small, low, black brig, which goes under the flag of Hamburg. With the exception of the meals, to which I become quite accustomed, we shall make a change for the better, which will be specially true of the quarters on the "Aurora" as compared with those of the Victoria. The Aurora has no steerage and we shall therefore be lodged in one of the large and cosy quarters on deck, where the accommodations will be just as elegant and Comfortable and even cooler and more airy than the cab- ins. THE OCEAN VOYAGE 151 It has cost us quite a fight to manage the continuance of our voyage on the "Aurora." Poppe, the agent of Godefroy (Hamburg) had flatly refused me the privilege of sailing with this vessel and declared in an insolent manner that he would ship us when and in whatever class of vessel he might see fit ; and that we were not to have any say in the matter. That was a little too much for me, moreover, as I had found out that it was his inten- tion to place us on board of a small Chilean vessel, which was to go to San Francisco at the beginning of Decem- ber; it carries steerage passengers and is said to have engaged already eighty berths. I then gave Poppe a piece of my mind and complained at once to Hallmann (the Consul of Bremen, to whom Oswald had recommend- ed me), to Uhde and Hunecken (the Hamburg Consul, upon Bartsch's suggestion), and to the Prussian Consul. This caused some noise, which evidently scared Poppe to some extent, as I received the announcement of our pas- sage on the "Aurora" two days later. I now hasten to the close of my letter by giving you an idea of the weather which we found in sailing around the Cape. We received news from Terra del Fuego since we came here and the report refers to several vessels which we met there in September last, and is rather sad. An English three-master and a bark are in San Carlos, the former minus masts and leaking, and the latter without sails and fore-mast. A Danish bark is at anchor in Ancud on ac- count of damage on palisades and rigging; both ports mentioned are on the Chiloe islands. A large Dutch ves- sel is in dock at Corral on account of severe leakage and loss of bowsprit, boats and rigging. In Coquimbo and Copiapo are likewise ships awaiting repairs, which have suffered considerably. Nearly all ships which arrived later than we in Valparaiso have suffered more or less damage, with the single exception of the Hamburg brig "Sarah," which passed the Cape at the beginning of < Oc- tober with good weather in three days. The brig of "Apenrade" has not yet arrived. It was owing to a mis- understanding on my part that I announced her arrival 152 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE in my last letter; it is said that she has lost bowsprit, fore- mast, etc., and is now in Copiapo. Good bye! Do not worry about me. It is unnecessary to tell you that I send many, many hearty greetings to all my loved ones. All who love me will forever and ever be dear to me! The enclosure is for you, dear Father. As this letter will only leave on the 26th, I shall keep it until the last moment in order to be able to add a P. S. in case some- thing of interest should turn up, and to let you know when we shall be ready to sail. The promised sketch is en- closed. With sincere love, Your (Signed) FRANZ LECOUVREUR. P. S.— On board of the Hamburg Brig "Aurora," Capt. Mildenstein. Port Valparaiso, November 15th, 1851. Since the transfer of our baggage on the 12th inst. we lived partly on the "Aurora," partly on the "Victoria." Beginning with to-day we are completely installed on the "Aurora." The vessel is heavy laden according to Amer- ican ideas, but 1 hope that we may have a quick voyage, as the "Aurora" is said to be an unusually fleet sail-boat; we also expect to have good winds. We are to take some more freight to-day and set sail to-morrow— Sunday. Franz Hallmann has given me two letters of recommenda- tion, one to Wm. Meyer & Co. and the other to Heymann Fingshorn & Co., San Francisco. Ulide and Tlunecken likewise promised me one, which I hope to receive to-day. There will be several fellow-passengers, outside of my seven acquaintances from the "Victoria," and a lady passenger, Mrs. Mutzenbecher, from Hamburg; some of the former will occupy cabins and some deck-quarters. Up to this hour I have seen none of them. There are said to be two Chilean senoras, mother and daughter, likewise an American (Yankee) and wife. I am glad of that, as I shall thereby have a chance to perfect my knowledge of THE OCEAN VOYAGE English and Spanish. The latter language is not hard, neither the grammar nor the vocabulary, and 1 hope to master it fairly well by the time we reacli San Francisco. It will be necessary to draw the enclosed sketch upon a card. I did it, too, and was enabled to get a real and correct view of our voyage. By it yon will sec our route has been very crooked. Our course has been very eccenl ric. Our trip around the Cape looks almost like a chess-puzzle. If you desire to get a sailor's view of the sketch, you will have to mark upon the map every point mentioned and then join these points by straight lines. I hope that this letter may reacli you by the middle of January of the coming year (1852), perhaps even before grandfather's birthday, whom it may find in the old, happy frame of mind and the old indestructible health. However, I am somewhat worried as to the fate of this letter, as it will have to remain here till the 2Gth inst. I shall take it to Hallmann and shall use all my fluency of speech so as to make sure that it will not be forgotten when mail-time comes. If everything goes well you may expect my next letter within eight or ten weeks, from San Francisco. Am I to hope for a letter from you on my arrival there ? Your FKANZ. LETTEB NO. VI Sunday, January 11th, 1852. On Board the Hamburg Brigg "Aurora," Capt. Mildenstein, 36° 11' N. Latitude, 126° 1 W. Longitude, coast of California. My Beloved Ones:— This is the birth-day anniversary of my own dear sister Marie, and could it possibly be cel- ebrated by me more worthily than by entertaining you all with an account of my last voyage? I presume that you have come into possession of my letters dated the twenty-sixth of October and twenty- sixth of November a. p., which I mailed by the respective Panama steamers long ago. One cannot imagine anything more })leasant than my trip from Valparaiso hither. The weather favored us so remarkably that my diary contains but three records of slight inclemencies, whilst at the same time it describes the magnificent effect which the tropical sun had upon the quiet, cooling waters, which were scarcely interrupt- ed by disturbing winds. We really could have made the trip in an open boat, without running any more risk to our safety than in one of the largest vessels. But this was not the only agreeable side of our trip, which in re- ality proved by far preferable to that made on board the Victoria. Intentionally I avoided saying to you in my early letters that our meals on the last named vessel were — to put it mildly — abominable. The quantity was just sufficient to keep a fellow alive, particularly during the last few weeks, when the inclemency of the weather made the want of nutritious food the more perceptible. Indeed the preparation of our food corresponded to its miserable quality. Not a thimbleful of fat ever found its way into the meals, and the hard, old peas and beans, with occa- 154 ON BOARD THE "AURORA" 155 sionally a grain of rice or barley, were often swimming in clear water— half-cooked. However, I never com- plained about the miserable grub, and would, if it had been necessary, have taken it without grumbling all the way to San Francisco, as I have neither been a great eater, nor a Lucullus, at any time. Quantity and quality never worry me, as, thanks to my early training, my taste has never been spoiled. With all that, however, I could not help noticing and acknowledging the great difference in treatment there and here. Indeed, I do not believe that many ocean travellers can boast of such a spread as we have on board the "Aurora." Our dinner consists of potatoes and good meat in abundance : and coffee and tea are likewise of very good quality. Instead of bad, rancid butter for cooking purposes, we receive as much good lard as we care to use. During the fore-noon, at about ten o'clock, and again at half-past two in the afternoon, each of us receives a drink of cognac to stimulate the ap- petite for the regular meals. Another most agreeable feature is the daily distribution of large loaves of wheat bread about tea-time, the product of our good cook's in- dustry. As the flour has given out, we receive now po- tatoes instead, all of which are additional items which the Captain is by no means obliged by the prescribed bill of fare to furnish, and, though seemingly secondary, they are greatly appreciated on the open sea. Aside from this, we may drink as much fresh water as we have a mind to. As I told you in my last letter, there is also as marked a difference in our sleeping accommodations as in the food. If my present frame of mind would harmonize bet- ter with the better surroundings and accommodations, I should surely be spoiled; but, as it is, all these circum- stances, which in the end are only pleasing to the body, have little effect upon my mind in general. I mention these external improvements only to give yon pleasure, knowing full well how you will regard the information that I am well cared for. As expected, we left Valparaiso on Sunday, the six- teenth of November, a. p, At about five o'clock in the 156 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE morning we began to weigh anchor, while the church- bells were inviting the faithful to early mass. There are many magnificent churches in all South-American cities, and Valparaiso is also well supplied. By half-past ten we started on our voyage, passing the light-house half-an- hour later, with a light South wind, while the weather was perfectly beautiful. A Chilean three-master and the large Hamburg "Johannis Marie" left the harbor at the same time. It is truly astonishing how many Hamburg vessels one encounters everywhere: the merchant-marine of the old Hansa-town is evidently as well represented on the Pacific as on the Atlantic ocean. Toward one o'clock we set lee-sails and made no change whatever until the nineteenth of the month, when the bram and lee-sails had to be laid by. Think of it, nine days with- out changing sails! This will serve you as evidence of the magnificent weather and favorable winds which we enjoyed. Hardly had we gone to sea, however, when someone discovered that the old "Aurora" had sprung a leak, which caused an inflow of about fourteen inches of water per watch. "One watch," in sailor parlance, means four hours of duty, or one shift. Of course, we passengers began to worry a little, but the uneasiness was soon overcome, when we became convinced that the leakage did not increase. There was not, however, any additional influx of water near the pumps. Though the danger from the leak seemed very small, it nevertheless became the cause of two very disagreeable features, which we did not meet with on board of the "Victoria." The pumping to' begin with, caused a barbaric noise, which, being repeated every two hours, day and night, became a constant bar to the sleep of nervously inclined passen- gers. Much more troublesome than the pumping were, in my estimation, the countless bed-bugs and rats, which latter, in particular, paid us nightly visits in our bunks. Imagine our joy ! There was consternation among our passengers when it became known shortly after leaving the port of Val- paraiso that we had a goodly load of gun-powder on ON HOARD THE "AURORA" 151 hoard; it made some of us foci rather uncomfortable. This powder, in all one hundred and sixty-two kegs of twenty-five pounds each, was enough to blow ten liners into splinters. It was part of the freight which I men- tioned in letter No. 10, as being ready for shipment. Though 1 knew the nature of the cargo then as well as I do today, I withheld the information from you hecause you would otherwise have had powder-dreams day and night, and would, perhaps, have pictured to yourselves my fiery ascension into Heaven, somewhat alter the meth- od of the prophet Elias, of Holy Writ. The worst of it is that these kegs of powder were knocked about wherev- er there appeared a little space between the other freight, principally under the cabin and front-steerage— two places where light and smoking is a constant menace, particularly on account of the cracks and holes in the flooring, through which the kegs may be seen, and, in places, even lie felt. As you may fancy, this challenged, at first, a good deal of my courage and caused me to think of Bontekoe, Cook and the Flying Dutchman, especially when the sailors commenced to throw those kegs around carelessly, whenever they were looking for tools, iron, chains, or whatever they happened to be in immediate need of, and that generally finds its way into the cable- hatch. Even right near the fire-place one can see ten to fifteen barrels piled up at times, simply to temporarily facilitate the search of something or other in the hatch below. Fortunately for the sensitive looker-on this pro- verbial carelessness of the tars has a contagious and soothing effect upon the many, as one hardly thinks of disastrous possibilities after a while, though we might have been sent on a flight through space more than once, and without the least warning or preparation for the journey. There would not have been as much as a de- tailed report, though the facts, if known, might have caused more excitement than did the appearance of the Lord in the burning bush, in the ancient Hebrew days. It is well-known thai the apprentices on our men-of-war handle the powder-kegs, which caused those hoys to he 158 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE nick-named * ' powder-monkeys. ' ' In the end, our old Ger- man proverb: "Everything is a matter of digestion," plays the trump in this case especially. The immense surface of the South-sea is rarely visited by any but so-called trade-winds, Monsoons, which blow with an unsurpassed evenness and always in the same direction, no matter what zone they happen to strike, only being here and there interrupted by playful coursing breezes. One is thus enabled to make pretty close calcu- lations as to the probable duration of the trip through these regions, provided the ship is in experienced hands, who know how to utilize the Monsoon realms to greatest advantage. We left these regions on Wednesday, the nineteenth of November, and placed ourselves therefore out of reach of those winds, which, if you recollect, had also been our companions during the trip from Valdivia to Valparaiso. We soon experienced changes after bid- ding farewell to the Cape-pigeons, which had been our faithful followers since the time when we passed the Rio de la Plata. A strong Southeast breeze made us realize the change very quickly. Our deck was covered with gulf-swallows, little greyish-brown birds about as large as our crows; they have white breasts and black tails and wing-tips. Toward five o'clock on Thursday afternoon, sailing West half-North, we caught sight of the islands Ombrosio and San Feliz which disappeared from our horizon again in less than half an hour. Though the day happened to be exceedingly clear these islands appeared and disappeared like small blue clouds. Sunday, the twenty-third, we felt a mild East Monsoon with light rain, but not until the twenty-fifth could the wind be utilized, as we experienced on Monday, the twenty-fourth, our first complete calm. I suppose this announcement will give you the third fright during this reading. I count this the third because I fancy that the word "leak" has caused the first scare and the "powder-shipment" must have given you the second fright; am I not right? But it is in reality a much less serious matter than people are ordinarily led to believe. Many fables have been told us ON BOARD THE "AURORA" 159 about the dreadful calms on the Pacific Ocean. My de- scription of the trade winds will already have informed you that things arc not as bad as the writers of sensa- tional stories would have you to believe. Prolonged, and actually death- like calms are only noticeable along the coast and particularly between Callao (sea-port of Lima) and Mazatlan; the islands between Panama and the Gal- lopagos, too, are frequently visited by these calms, which, on occasions, will last for weeks, a good reason why sail- ing vessels are seldom seen in those waters; they are slimmed by all who do not have business in those regions. The afore-mentioned calm happened on one of my per- sonal holidays and lasted till evening. A strong East Monsoon enabled us thereafter to continue our voyage uninterruptedly until the nineteenth of December, which means fully twenty-four days, accompanied by the most delightful, mild weather. Though the air is much purer and clearer here than under the same degrees of tropical latitude in the Atlantic, the heat is not nearly as over- powering, and hardly ever exceeds our ordinary sum- mer's heat at home. The reason for this may be found in the fact that we are sailing along the coast, which, being very mountainous, protects the ocean for miles from the approaching sun while on the Atlantic the unprotected vessel is exposed to the tropical heat from which even the coast, being West of the traveller, cannot possibly offer any amelioration. We seldom noticed cloudy at- mosphere until after sun-set, which latter was ordinarily beautifully clear. And yet we must not lose sight of the fact that, at the time indicated, the proper advent of win- ter had, according to the dictates of "Grandma's calen- dar," still three days of grace. I hardly remember hav- ing had such marvelously clear nights at any time dur- ing the crossing of the Atlantic, though I find among my notes a similar mention on the thirty-first of July a. p. Nothing can be compared to Nature's Panorama in the South-Sea; no human description can faithfully portray the magnificence of the scene which the immense, purple, rayless fire-ball— the sun — offers to the naked eye as it ICO EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE slowly glides down the horizon of the un-measurable waters, the bottomless depth of which appears still more awe-inspiring on account of the profound silence, which everywhere prevails. Even the fleetest-winged powers of imagination— such as only truly poetical souls possess— cannot fully do justice to so grand, and yet so melancholy a spectacle. I often felt the tears come into my eyes, without knowing the cause. Even the wind seems to pay his last respects before the majesty of the setting sun as it invariably stops its course for just a few minutes, the moment the last spark of the immense fire-disk has dis- appeared in the ocean. This unusually clear sun-set, how- ever, is not the only proof of the extraordinary transpar- ency of the air in these regions, for the circumstance which enables the naked eye to observe the moon along- side of the noon-day sun, is assuredly another not less to be underrated. As the light breeze was unable to ruffle the ocean, we seldom observed foam-crowned waves and, had it not been for the occasional upheaving, or swell, as it rolled from the South, and only disappears altogether as we approached the Equator, we could, in reality, have mistaken the bottomless sea for a vast pond. The up- heaving I just mentioned, reaches a height of from six to eight feet and a width of about eight hundred feet, while it is often several miles long, dimensions which, by far, out-measure the swells of the Atlantic, which, at the time, surprised me greatly. While the South Sea appears more imposing as regards the immensity of the waves, it cannot compare with the beauties of the Atlantic as far as the coloring of the water is concerned. As I have mentioned in an earlier letter, the Atlantic Ocean has a magnificent dark blue color, while the South Sea, though clear as crystal, is of a much paler and more greenish hue. The brilliancy of the surface shines forth more beautifully in the Pacific than on the other side of the American continent and what has particularly attracted my attention is a certain lightning in the water which often causes a momentary flash-light of bluish or reddish shade, covering at times a space of many feet in dimen- sion. OX BOARD THE "AURORA" 161 On the twentieth of December, we passed an immense school of fin-fish, the whole surface, as far as the eye could reach, was literally covered with them; again, now and then a shark or a dolphin would break the monotony, but beyond that we met no different species from those I described as inhabiting the Atlantic Ocean, namely: boni- tos, porpoises, and numberless flying-fish— of which we kept one or two dead ones on deck for quite a while. Soon after leaving Valparaiso we saw two whales at a great distance, but not one has since come within our view. Birds have been our constant companions. The faithful cape-pigeons had been replaced by the gulf-swallows, which, in turn, had been succeeded by so-called tropical birds, which are now followed by California wild-geese, large, dark-brown birds, in shape resembling the alba- tross, but much larger and stronger in build— probably Pelicans. After several fruitless trials we managed to catch a few, one of which measured no less than eight feet ten inches from tip to tip, and whose dark blue beak proved to be over five inches wide, while the claws were fully six inches in length. Ships have been rather scarce on our trip, as we have met only four so far, which makes one feel rather lone- some on the wide, wide ocean. Saturday, the twenty- ninth of November, we sighted a large Danish schooner, heavy laden and South-bound; the Tuesday following, we passed within two miles of an empty full-master, under short sails, steering in Northeastern direction. Seeing only top-sails, three (mars, cleaver and lee), we con- cluded that this mysterious vessel must be a coursing whaler. I passed the Equator the second time during the night of the fourteenth-fifteenth of December a. p. The night was clear and beautiful, the wind steady but mild, so that we passed the line with lee-sails laid-by. And then came Tuesday, the sixteenth, your ever remem- bered birthday, beloved mother, and in chronological succession, my second holiday since leaving Valparaiso. You will be wondering how I celebrated it. .hist like the other holiday during my trip; 1 smoked one cigar more 11 162 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE than usual and observed strict silence all day in order to enjoy a visit— if only in imagination— to the beloved ones at home, and to you, blessed mother, in particular. About sun-rise I was walking up and down in the deck-house, with shirt-sleeves rolled-up, a light straw-hat, and my bare feet modestly hidden in slippers, while the slowly ap- pearing sun's-rays glistened in the mirror-like water. I could not help thinking how you would have enjoyed watching me through a magic mirror, if such a thing were possible. On such days, during such moments, I feel happy and contented ; home seems nearer and I fancy my- self present in the circle of those whom I love so dearly! and among my few true friends! Yes, there seems to be an inner voice calling out to me every now and then: ' ' Fear not ! you will be happy, happy in your home. ' ' In such moments I feel untold joy. But I suppose I must say: away with such delusions, the old enemy will have many a chance to put stumbling-blocks in my way when- ever he may have a mind to do so.* On the nineteenth of December we had Eastwind with rain, which the experienced sailor regards as a sure sign that the trade-winds will soon cease. The sea showed heavy swells from the Northeast, so that the lee-sails were set during the evening, which was, in reality, the first material change made since we left Valparaiso. Later in the evening we had brilliant lightning in the northeast, which made the Heavens appear as though on fire, though not the least sound was heard. Saturday, the twentieth, was the first day with northern trade- winds, but, notwithstanding the increasing severity, the weather remained otherwise unchanged. Toward seven o'clock in the evening, top-sails had to be set, and they remained that way until Monday, the twenty-second, as no material change in weather occurred. That night, *And yet, how true was this presentiment ; though many were the hardships, which our young traveller had to overcome, the reward for his ever onward struggle was attained at last. The "Happy Home," for which he longed, was to be his in due time, as Providence measures it. — Translator. ON BOARD THE "AURORA" 163 however, the wind turned toward North and grew strong- er. The days which followed this change brought us considerable work on board, as sai.ls had to be changed back and forth on account of the variable winds. But Wednesday, the twenty-fourth of December, Christmas Eve., a severe N. N. E. wind set in and compelled us to strengthen the mars-sails. The sea rose high, but our ves- sel was too well laden and too well built to be in any way greatly disturbed by the whistling, whirling winds; and the hot punch and pancakes with which our good ( laptain treated us, in due commemoration of the day, were so well received that we scarcely thought of our watery road-bed, but enjoyed the celebration as if we bad been on shore. Was I happy? No! Not I. Notwithstanding the general merriment, I could not enter into the spirit of the hour, and was glad when everybody had retired, as it en- abled me to spend an hour undisturbed, promenading up and down the deck, accompanied only by the faithful friend — my cigar. Watching the floating wave-forms carry the glittering lights which appeared and disap- peared like ghostly jack-o-lanterns upon the black roar- ing sea, had such a soothing effect upon my mind that I sought the mattress sooner than I had anticipated. My dreams, however, did the work, for they carried me home, where holiday-bells were inviting the God-fearing peo- ple to Divine Service. The weather during the two Christmas holidays was as beautiful and warm as one could possibly desire. Even the sea behaved well, with the one exception, that a heavy down-pour which came from the North, was permitted to disturb our equanimity for a few minutes. One experi- ences these down-pours throughout the Pacific from the twelfth to the fifteenth degree of Northern latitude to Behring-Strait all the year round, 1 am told. Until the last day of the year we sailed with good steady North- Eastern winds and we had nice, clear weather and nothing extraordinary to relate. The thirty-first— Sylvester day —brought us another complete calm, while the air was rather sultry. We amused ourselves most of the day by 164 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE fishing for so-called ' ' boatsmen. " These little animals resemble the Nautilus; they have an oval flat body, gelat- inous in substance, and are more than two inches in diameter; they carry what appears at a distance to be a sail, transparent like glass and shaped like the wing of a butterfly. This sail, their only means of locomotion, is placed exactly like the yard-sail of a ship and indeed these strange mollusks will never be found heading the wind, but always gliding alongside. We have seen these animals at times in enormous numbers, almost covering the surface of the sea as far as the naked eye could reach. Birds of prey and fish do not seem to harm them, for they are protected by a poisonous, slimy substance, the very touch of which will cause a painful swelling of the fingers. About noon, we had a light breeze from the South-South- East, which disappeared with the sun, and a deathlike calm prevailed throughout the night. The -air became as quiet as the breath of a sleeping child. It was my "Sylvester night," during which I could give audience to my thoughts till three o'clock in the morning without being disturbed. Head and heart ran the race, now tak- ing past, now future subjects, for their temporary med- itation. Meanwhile I found delightful and yet cynical pleasure, when a breath of reasoning would blow to ashes the frail, yet beautiful air-castles which the heart and an imaginative mind had luxuriously erected in the sandy desert of an uncertain future. However, they generally were quickly rebuilt and joyfully accepted by their san- guine architects, while old reason planned another dis- aster for them. Thus it went on and would have gone on indefinitely had not all three grown sleepy in the long- vigil. But no sooner had I closed my eyes than I com- menced dreaming of Home. Dear, joyous pictures pass in review, and again I recognized the play of my evening- companions, those merry goblins, but especially the un- avoidable, un-tiring teaser, my own heart. Beginning with the first of this month we have had quite a change of wind, at times very brisk Southwest or Southeast breezes, which continued till the fourth, and ON BOARD THE "AURORA" 165 caused the weather to be at times bright; at other times cool and cloudy. On Saturday, the third, we passed the American steamer, "Constitution," within speaking dis- tance. She was sailing Westward, coming from San Fran- cisco and bound for the Sandwich Islands. During the night following there happened a little accident on board our ship which could easily have caused serious trouble. A sudden squall of wind accompanied by heavy rain, which surprised us about midnight, broke the rudder- tackle. Fortunately the squall, which had not come very forcibly upon us, grew slowly weaker, or we otherwise might have lost several sails and masts, owing to the cir- cumstances which made it impossible to handle the rud- der until the damage could be repaired. You may be sure that we spent a very anxious hour of uncertainty. Sun- day, the fourth, brought us another calm, which lasted from one o'clock in the afternoon until noon of the Wednesday following, when a light breeze arose from the Northwest. During all this time the air was warm; we drifted along, while everything around us remained in death-like silence, which was only interrupted by an oc- casional breath of air from the South or Southeast, hardly causing any motion of our ship. The sixth of January, at about nine p. m., we observed a complete eclipse of the moon, which was made very clear by the cloudless sky. The night was so mild that I patroled the deck in shirt- sleeves. Pretty good for January, is it not? As before mentioned, we enjoyed a delightful Northwest breeze during the afternoon of the seventh and had already made up our minds that we were soon to greet the Northwest- ern trade wind, but fancy our dismay, as it turned North- northwest; and when evening came we found ourselves under a strong North breeze. The air grew rough and decidedly unpleasant and a real cold fog limited our view considerably so that we were almost unable to look ahead more than shipslength. To our great delight we expe- rienced another, more favorable change the following evening, even though it was but another calm. We have since then more or less warm weather with light South 166 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE West winds and calms. The day before yesterday we no- ticed during the afternoon several sharks in our wake and within an hour's time, we had succeeded in catching no less than three of them, two of which were about four feet in length, while one measured fully seven feet. They were of the less dangerous kind, so-called, blue-sharks. Though these are fully as greedy as their relatives, the ground and shuffle-sharks, they are much lazier and dis- like fast swimming; though they are well able to move slowly, a good swimmer can easily out-do them, pro- vided, he has no more than one at his heels. One of the little fellows was fried for supper. The taste is somewhat similar to that of the laddock (shellfish), though one cannot eat as much of it, and he must be very careful in partaking of fish at sea, I am told, on account of the seri- ous stomach troubles and vomiting which generally fol- low, no matter what kind of fish he indulges in. This forenoon we had another calm and were enveloped in a heavy fog which reminded me of the familiar Baltic sum- mer fogs. Since noon the air has cleared considerably and at present we enjoy a light Northern breeze, which sends us slowly toward our destination. I am in the best of hopes that my travels may terminate in a few days, and dare say that, considering all, it has been a lucky voy- age, of which the last part has proved particularly agree- able, though as a whole ours has not been a very fast trip. More from San Francisco. Good bye for the pres- ent. Your FRANZ. Note by Translator. — The reader will probably remember that young Mr. Lecouvreur mentioned in one of his former letters the enclosure of an exact nautical record, covering the voyage to Valparaiso. Whether this document was lost or mislaid, the translator is unable to say, and he has had to content himself with a reproduction of a few notes, found in one of the neatly-kept diaries which, like everything else that the noble pioneer under- took, are a lasting proof of his uncommon exactness, as well as an enduring record of a useful life. Here is a transcription of the notes found : NAUTICAL REPORT 167 c Days Left Konigsberg, Baltic Sea, April 25-6 2 Stettin, Sunda) , April 27th 1 Berlin, April 28-9 2 Berlin-I [amburg, April 30th 1 Hamburg from May 1st to June 1st 32 Altogether 38 On board of the "Victoria" — Hamburg Harbor, June 2d, to 4th 3 On the River Elbe, June 5th to nth 7 In the North Sea, June 12th t< 1 1 7th 6 In the Canal, June 18th to 21st 4 In the Bay of Biscaya, June 22(1 to 26th 5 63 In the Atlantic from June 27th to Wednesday, Sept. 17th, 1851 • 83 In the South Sea from Sept. [8th to Oct 8th 20 In the Harbor of Corral, Chile, Oct. 9~i8th 10 From Corral to Valparaiso Oct. 19-2 1 st 3 In Valparaiso Harbor, from October 22d to Nov. 15th ,24 On board of the "Aurora" — From Valparaiso, to San Francisco, Sunday, Nov. if>th to Thursday. Jan. 15th, 1852 60 According to which record the whole trip from Konigsberg, East Prussia to San Francisco, California, was made in two hundred and sixty-three days. At the end of the letter, dated January the 1 ith, I find the fol- lowing nautical record, covering the trip from Valparaiso to California, lacking but a few days, to make it complete; the next letter, however, contains the detailed description of that missing period. The existence of a record covering the second half of his trip, leaves no doubt that the methodical author had previously drawn up the now missing document. But let us peruse, what we have before us : Nautical Record of the trip made on board of the Hamburg Brigg "Aurora," Capt. Mildenstein, from Valparaiso, Chile, to San Francisco, California. November 185 1 to January, 1852, A. D. 185 T. Nov. 16 — Leave Harbor of Valparaiso at eleven A. M. Beau- tiful weather and light south wind prevailing. Nov. 17 — South wind, mild, little cloudv. Nov. 18— 75 4' W. L. 28 33' Lat. Fresh south wind. Good weather. 163 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Nov. 19 — South wind, fine weather. Nov. 20 — At 5 P. M. Ambrosio and Felix isles, to the right, southward at about five miles distant. Wind S. E. — fine. Nov. 21 — Very light southeast, nice weather. Nov. 22— 84 ° 11' \V. L. 22 57' Lat.— Continued light S. E. Nov. 23 — Light east wind, cool, rainy. Nov. 24 — 87 43' W. L. 22 34' Lat. Calm, warm but moist. Nov. 2S — Very light E. S. E., fine weather. Nov. 26— 91 ° 26' W. L. 20 43' Br. Wind E. S. E. Beautiful weather. Nov. 27 — Wind E. S. E., fine weather. Nov. 28 — 95 21' W. L. 19 53'. Wind E. S. E., no change in weather. Nov. 29 — Wind and weather continue. Nov. 30 — 98 1' W. L. 17 32' Lat, no change. Dec. 1 — Wind and weather continue. Dec. 2 — The same again. 101 9' W. L. 14 40' Lat. E. S. E. Dec. 3 — No change in wind and weather. Dec. 4— 104 14' W. L. ii° 5' Lat. Wind E. S. E., beautiful weather. Dec. 5 — Wind and weather continue without change. Dec. 6 — Again the same. 107 27' W. L. 8° 33' Lat. Dec. 7 — No change. Dec. 8 — Again, no chance. no° 19' W. L. 5 11' Lat. Dec. 9 — Wind E. S. E., weather very warm and sultry. Dec. 10 — 113 22' W. L. 2° 30' Lat. E. S. E. wind and fine weather. Dec. II — No change in wind, air sultry. Dec. 12 — 116 49' W. L. i° 54' Lat. E. S. E. wind and pleas- ant weather. Dec. 13 — Very light E. S. E., most beautiful weather. Dec. 14 — 119 2' W. L. o° 41' Lat. Wind and weather the same. Dec. 15 — East wind, most delightful weather. Dec. 16 — 120 23' W. L. 2 26' Lat., E. S. E. wind; fresh and fair. Dec. 17 — Wind and weather continue the same. Dec. 18— 121 30' W. L. 5 19' N. Lat., E. S. E. very light. Dec. 19 — East wind with rain ; warm. Dec. 20—124° 4' W. L. 8° 8' N. Lat. east to N. N. E. ; air sultry. Dec. 21 — N. E. wind; agreeable weather. Dec. 22 — 125° 58' W. L. 12° ii' N. Lat. N. E. wind, breezy; fine. Dec. 23 — N. N. E. wind; stormy, but beautiful. Dec. 24— Continued. 128° 8' W. L. 16 6' N. Lat. Dec. 25 — Same wind and weather. NAUTICAL REPORT 1G9 Dec. 26— 132 o' W. L. 18 54' N. Lat. N. E. wind; fine weather. Dec. 2j — N. E. wind, beautiful but cool. Dec. 28—133° "' W. L. 22° 33' N. Lat. N. E. wind, nice weather. Dec. 29 — Light N. E. nice, cool weather. Dec. 30 — [34° 37' W. L. 25° 34' N. Lat., calm, fine weather. Dec. 31 — Wind south and S. S. east, light, warm air. 1852. Jan. 1— 135° 6' W. L. 27 38' N. Lat. Light S. E. to S., beau- tiful. Jan. 2 — South wind, vcrv brisk, beautiful weather. Jan. 3— 1 33° 9' W. L. '31° 2%' N. Lat. S. S. W., cool and cloudv. Jan. 4— 130° 24' W. L. 32° 50' N. Lat. S. and S. W., cloudy with rain. Tan. s — Calm. Weather, beautiful and warm. Tan. 6— 128 44' W. L. 33° 45' X. Lat. Calm; fine weather. Jan. 7— 128° 10' W. L. 33° 53' N. Lat. Calm; P. M., north- ern breeze. Jan. 8—126- 58' W. L. 33 51' N. Lat., N. N. E. followed by calm ; cold. Jan. 9— 127 11' W. L. 34 4' N. Lat. Calm; later S. W.— breezy. Jan. 10 — Very light S. W.. then calm. Nice weather. Jan. 11 — T26 1' W. L. 36 n' N. Lat. Light circling wind from south and west; air, pleasant. LETTER NO. VII San Francisco, Jan. 29th, 1852. At last I am at my destination and, if I may be per- mitted to judge from the impression which the short stay has given me, I shall have reason to congratulate myself upon the choice of my second fatherland. But before I enter into details about San Francisco— details which will make you burn mid-night oil to read— I beg your indulgence for a brief space while continuing my last description— with the help of my faithful diary —the thread of which you followed to the eleventh day of this month. The twelfth brought various indications of near-by land, such as the dark-green color of the water, diving ducks (duckers, as the sailors commonly call them), gray birds about the size of our geese. There also appeared floating alongside of our boat the limb of a tree, covered with leaves, a most convincing and welcome proof that the days of our journey were numbered. At about a quar- ter to one, the same afternoon, the joyous shout of land rang out from the fore top, whence the high coast could be observed, both in a Northern and Eastern direction. Soon after we commenced to notice the outlines with the naked eye, as they appeared at considerable length on the Eastern horizon. The sea grew calmer and the air warmer. As darkness set in we, of course, lost sight of the situation. By four o'clock the next morning we found ourselves close to the Farallones Cliffs and had hard work to keep the ship away from them, in which attempt we were particularly fortunate, as the moon shone brightly during that beautiful night. However, we were com- pelled to reverse our course, and as the wind changed considerably back and forth during the early morning, 170 ON AMERICAN SOIL 171 we had quite a lively time on board. Though the sun- rise was simply magnificent, the wind blew severely. The high coast of California appeared to he hut twelve miles away, while the Farallones cliffs were now almost as far distant, when looking from our backboard-quarter. Though maneuvering the sails carefully, we had little control of our ship and hy about eight o'clock found our- selves again (to the dismay of every one), close to the largest of the Farallon Islands. Just when our troubles were at their height there appeared a San Francisco coasting pilot-boat on the scene, which sent a man on hoard, who immediately ordered the changing of sails. Unfortunately there is a vast difference between the Ger- man mode of rigging and the American way, in conse- quence of which an American mariner seldom finds him- self at home on a German sailing-vessel. In our particu- lar case the pilot's aid cost us a main yard and endan- gered the lives of several men of our crew. After ridding ourselves of this undesirable help, we had the visit of an- other coasting-pilot. We also sighted a strange bark and a brigg, both coasting Eastward. At four ]>. m. Sea and wind grew calmer. Toward eleven o'clock we reached the Cape "de los Reyes"; after- wards we coursed in short tacks near the coast. Our sails were in poor condition, some of the yards being too short, others as crooked as fiddle-sticks, which proved a great hindrance in stemming the tide near ' k de los Reyes Point." The air is unusually bright and agreeable. The coast pilot-boat which reached us this morning has made the trip from Boston around Cape Horn in one hundred and four days; its name is "Emily." Since the hitter's arrival we have had two other pilots offer their assist- ance. The aforementioned bark and brigg are approach- ing us rapidly, though yet beyond recognition. Wednesday, the fourteenth of January, 1852, at nine a. m. The wind turned N. E. last night, enabling us thereby to sail along the coast; but when we approached the "Golden Gate" about ten o'clock, ready to enter the long-sought Bay, an East-Northeast storm broke out 172 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE which spoiled our fond hopes, notwithstanding the en- deavor of our brave men to fight the difficulties success- fully by shifting the sails diligently. You will readily imagine our thorough disappointment when finding our- selves about three o'clock near the "Punta del Alio Nuevo" — which means about sixteen miles from shore. At last the storm subsided, the air became mild, even warm, and the sea very quiet. By seven o 'clock we man- aged to approach the shore anew and at present we are slowly making our way Northward, rigged as yesterday. The bark is now cruising some four miles from us, while the brigg has anchored at Cape "Bonita" alongside of a fullmaster. One can likewise observe a threemaster cruising in the neighborhood of the Farallones. Poor fellows! May they escape the danger-mark, as we did. At ten o'clock the bark had advanced sufficiently for us to distinguish the Hamburg flag, and a little later we recognized the "Sophie," Captain Decker, an old ac- quaintance from Valparaiso, where she arrived coming from Sydney, three days before we left that port. At high noon: Complete calm set in. The air is de- lightfully warm. The three-master "Spray" from San Francisco is now within close calling distance; she like- wise has come from Valparaiso, which trip she made in thirty-five days. We are now near Punta "Clara." At three p. m. we have a slight Western breeze. The "So- phie" is now within a mile of us. A large Peruvian bark laden with ballast passed us a little while ago. The full- masted ship which had anchored near Cape Bonita lias set sail again; she evidently lost her fore-top-mast and is now heading for the Bay. At seven p. m. We have taken a Northern course since three o'clock; the air is warm and the sky is cloudless. By half-past five we sailed around "Punta de los Lobos Marinos" (seal rocks), passing the Fort right after sun-set. At five minutes past six we an- chored close to the American Revenue Cutter and just outside of North Beach, in the outer harbor of San Fran- cisco. Thursday, the fifteenth of January, 1852, at high noon: ON AMERICAN SOIL 173 We weighed anchor once more, about nine this morning, and sailed slowly under light Westwind into the inner- harbor of the Western Metropolis. The weather is beau- tiful. We reached the California wharf at twelve and anchored opposite. Thus ended my trip in Tiro hundred sixty-five days, five hours and fifty-five minutes since my departure from KonigsbeTg, on board of the steamer "Ki'migsberg," Cap- tain Lybe. Two hundred twenty-three days, eighteen hours and ten minutes since my departure from Hamburg in the bark "Victoria," Capt. Meyer, Fifty-nine days, one hour and twenty-five minutes since my departure from Valpa- raiso in the brig "Aurora," Capt. Mihlenstein. On American Soil! No sooner had we anchored than T at once went ashore to visit Boettcher, who received me very kindly. It was from his place that 1 dispatched my letter Xo. 11 (includ- ing strictly persona] notes), which informed you in few words of my safe arrival and well-being. You will now doubtless be exceedingly curious as to the impression which San Francisco has made upon me; and therefore a description of the city and its people will be in order. San Francisco is, to begin with, an American city. "Every third grade pupil can tell us that," will be your impatient suggestion, "but what is in reality an American city?"* Let me explain, what I mean by a typical American city. The American uses the very practical and characteris- tic expression "for a purpose" on nearly every occasion, so much in fact that it may almost be called his life's motto: "Working for a purpose." He eats and drinks for a purpose; he works for a purpose; he builds his * The third grade of a German grammar school corresponds witli the sixth grade °f an American public school, as the highest grade is named the "Prima." — Tr. 174 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE house, his town, his cities for a purpose, and San Fran- cisco, above all others, I judge, is built for a purpose, through and through. You will understand this phrase better as you read along. The streets are straight and wide, because crooked, narrow lanes would not suit the commercial purpose; they are all cut at right angles, run- ning North, West, East and South — for a purpose. How could a stranger possibly familiarize himself quickly with the location of a place in which he is interested in so large and mountainous a city, the houses of which, par- ticularly in the outskirts, resemble anything but a contin- uous line and where the many vacant lots make it almost impossible to use numbers effectively? You commence to realize that the founders and early city fathers laid their plans for a purpose and, moreover, for a good one. Hav- ing read so far you will now reason thus: If San Fran- cisco has wide, straight streets and large squares, it must be a beautiful city. Slowly, I pray you! Do not judge too hastily. This is a new country and San Francisco is of the latest birth, in what is commonly known as the "Wild Western" region. Everything consequently is yet done for a commercial purpose, and beauty, so far, counts for little. And still one has to admit San Fran- cisco has its attractions. Though the appearance of the city, were I to describe a bird's-eye view from one of the hill tops is not a very symmetrical one, nor does it pre- sent to us the beautiful architecture of ancient Greece, but one finds therein a rare liveliness and an ever chang- ing aspect. San Francisco compares with Berlin as a bright, rosy-cheeked maiden might be compared with a marble Juno. No two houses have a similar front; not ten are alike in general architecture. Each house has its pe^ culiarity, indicating the taste and nationality of its Owner and is built in accordance with the requirements of the respective material used. One naturally finds the strang- est contrasts of architectural products, mostly imitations of foreign ideas, brought hither from every civilized and uncivilized nation of the world. Buildings, representing the styles of Holland, Australia, East India, Germany, OX AMERICAN SOIL 175 China, Belgium, North America, England, France, Chile, Switzerland and many other countries stand peacefully alongside of each other. The materials used differ as much as do the countries which their styles represent. Most buildings are of wooden material, many others of brick, iron, zinc and copper. Brick houses with metal roofs, iron doors and window casings are very much the style here and those who are able to afford the great out- lay generally favor the latter, because they offer better resistance in case of fire than any of wholly metal struc- ture, which have proven impracticable during great con- flagrations. It is said that the intense heat of some big- fires has softened the metal built houses to such an extent that they became almost useless. There is no way of repairing such damage to metal built houses as the wages for building mechanics, no matter what metal they work in, are so enormously high that the repairs would cost much more than the importation of a new structure from England or the Eastern States. The streets which run through this gay appearing map of edifices are still very hilly, but time will change that easily and soon enough. As soon as the American finds out that hills do not suit his purpose, he will find means of moving them without much ado. lie will not try to bring that about, like Mohammed, by faith, but by ma- chines of the most varied and unheard-of construction, which, however, have or seem to have all one common feature, that of being very much ' ' for the purpose. ' ' One of said machines is at present, working at leveling a sand hill, about one hundred feet high, near Rincon point, the Southern cud of the harbor. This machine consists of a high pressure steam engine, which runs immense shovels into the sand, then raises them and empties the contents into a cart of special make. Each one of these carts holds a box two feet deep, ten long and seven wide. Two of the aforementioned shovels suffice to fill this cart, which at once rolls off on rails to a certain point at the harbor, where a single man awaits its coming and by touching some simple mechanical device, manages to tilt the whole 176 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE box over, whereupon, after emptying itself, it is replaced as easily, after which a single old horse hauls it back to the machine where the performance is repeated. While I pen these lines the cars glide along the railroad tracks, crossing and running through busy streets, traversing, for instance, nearly a mile of Battery street, one of the most populated thoroughfares of this city, where thousands of people and hundreds of freight wagons, carts and vehicles of all description pass hourly. What would you say to all that! What would the Honorable City Council or the worshipful Board of Police Commissioners of the grand old city of Konigsberg say if a private citizen should con- ceive the idea of rolling heavy freight cars in the above mentioned manner, from the Haberberger Church, for instance, to the Green Bridge? They would surely be amazed at the audacity of the man who should even pro- pose such a thing. But here! Why, the American would be very much surprised indeed at the impudence of a municipal body that would dare to interfere with an undertaking which could be proven to be so eminently for the purpose he had in view. Danger for the passer-by is not considered by the American, who judges rightly that every man should have sense enough to keep his eyes open and be watchful to keep out of the way of danger of being run over. I explained to you one method employed in reducing the local elevations or hills, but there is still another by which the city is leveled and this latter is typically Amer- ican. The plan for the location and building of the city of San Francisco as drawn by the government presup- poses level ground and is calculated upon filling up of a large portion of the bay. The building squares or so- called lots, are cut exactly square and all of the same size and whosoever intends to build, is obliged by law to keep strictly within the boundary of his lot. Whether he pro- poses to put up a match factory in a wooden shack, a tamale factory in a tent, a cottage or a brick structure, is nobody's concern but his own. No building restric- tions here. A goodly number of these lots extend thus ON AMERICAN SOIL 177 partlj into the water of the bay and the builder has nec- essarily, in building on his square, to use some old vessel or undertake the tedious work of filling up the allotted space; if he is fortunate enough to obtain a real lot on dry land, there are ninety-nine chances out of a hundred that he has to level it one way or the other. However, this again is left to the pleasure of the owner, who may build on a hill or in the valley if he chooses or he may take pains to level it before beginning to erect whatsoever the plan may call for. Thus it occurs here and there that they who have built their houses upon natural ground find their neighbor digging twenty feet deep into the elevation to place his own house right into that newly dug hole, which is a frequent occurrence where the street is either planned or already laid out. As the soil is gen- erally light or pure sand, the neighboring houses where such digging has occurred soon tumble into the hole, as may be witnessed quite often nowadays. In this manner one need not be surprised at the rapidity with which the leveling of the city progresses. In fact, the work is done much quicker than in localities where the authorities impose building restrictions of various kinds — which would cause many inconveniences here in America. I have already mentioned that the streets are wide and straight but as yet without stone pavement. Only the oldest and most frequented thoroughfares in the imme- diate vicinity of the harbor show some improvement in this line, consisting of wooden pavement; while all of them have broad wooden sidewalks which in some in- stances are being replaced by flag-stones (usually slate) or bricks. Every house is occupied by tradesmen of some kind and is literally covered with advertising signs and posters. Though the only ornaments of the buildings, these signs show much originality, as it is every man's endeavor to make the letters, coloring and wording of his advertising board as attractive to the passer-by as pos- sible. Thus it is that the whole represents a typical Rococo, the reality of which baffles any description. In solid Kdnigsberg, T would perhaps be accused of telling 12 178 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE "globe trotters' yams," were I to assure the good people that all the signs and inscriptions of the whole French street (Franzosische Strasse) would, in some instances, not suffice to cover the display of three houses in Com- mercial or Montgomery street, as they appear at present. If the streets and houses of San Francisco make a strange impression upon the European immigrant, the magnifi- cent harbor and its gigantic improvements fill him with amazement. The wharves and docks are such immense structures that one can hardly find words to describe their extent and importance. These wharves, of which there may be ten or twelve, are seldom less than one hun- dred feet in width, while the California street wharf, Long wharf, Pacific, Broadway and Cunningham wharf, which are among the largest, measured three-quarters of a mile (one-quarter of a German mile in length). You will readily understand that it took milliards of piles, beams and planks to complete these structures, while available means at hand are often limited, as may well be imagined, if one considers the comparative newness of the country, and, in many respects, the primitive means of communication. As the people fill up the waters along the shore of the bay in the manner I have described, the long piers grow shorter in places, as the so-called water front extends fur- ther and further into the bay. When one considers that the wage scale at the time of the construction of these enormous wharves demanded no less than six or eight dollars for the common day laborer, while carpenters, for instance, received from ten to twelve dollars a day, a faint estimate of the original cost may be obtained. It is well indeed to marvel at the great spirit which con- ceived and executed the plans for this unique American undertaking; it fills one with a degree of respect, which no other nation in the wide world can command.* *And this from a youth of twenty! What a lesson for the multitudes of foreigners who land on these shores and, having found the individual liberty which was denied them in their own OX AMERICAN SOIL 179 In strange contrast to the^e just described public struc- tures are others, the sight of which transports in imagina- tion the newcomer to different parts of the world. Far instance, that part of San Francisco which is built upon props, just above the water on the edge of the bay, and which, like Venice, has water avenues instead of streets. with occasionally a so-called "running bridge," the struc- ture of which I deem more dangerous than anything I have ever seen in my life. I shall tiy to describe the sight. Piles or props have been driven into the ground in straight lines, about ten feet apart; the upper ends are then connected with cross beams, to which in turn are spiked planks, joining the opposite rows of piles or props. The bridge thus constructed is just about wide enough to permit two persons to pass each other, while it is fully from eighty to a hundred feet long. As the gnawing tooth of time loosens the piles or wears them out, the passer of the bridge experiences a queer sensation when the planks creak under his weight in consequence of the unsteady support below. If I add to this description the fact that this very bridge is located in the most thickly inhabited part of town and serves as a means of daily communication to thousands of people, you will undoubt- edly asks: "How does that harmonize with the gigantic structures at the wharves?" But anybody who bears in mind that everything here in America is done for a purpose will soon find the clue. The bridge is. to begin with, for foot passengers only. The American would consider every dollar money tin-own away were he to put, for instance, a railing on either side of said bridge, as he Teasons that people who desire to make use of this short cut should have sense enough to look out that they do not fall into the water, just as before mentioned, thai they are expected to steer clear of the quickly moving sand cars on Battery street, lest they be run over and native principality, abuse the government which protects them from personal harm, be it of a religious or political nature- Translator. 180 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE crushed. Whoever deems this bridge too dangerous is entirely at liberty to choose a roundabout and much longer way to reach his destination. Just imagine our typical German philistine in Sunday attire coming across such a bridge ! How he would give vent to his righteous indignation and growl at the seemingly inexcusable neg- ligence and niggardly parsimoniousness of the munic- ipality, while carefully looking about, fearing that some one might have overheard his unguarded words. But, I assure you, I never have admired the practical side of the American character during my short acquaintance with their means and methods, more than in this very comparison. There is on one side of this strangely orig- inal structure just described, filling its temporary pur- pose, and right alongside of it, the splendidly built Long wharf, which also is there for a purpose, different, of course, from that of its neighbor. Should the practical eye of San Francisco's city gov- ernment become officially convinced today that this swinging bridge ought to be replaced by one of fifty feet in width and of more solid frame, thousands of men would be found at work tomorrow and in about a week's time all would be done and nobody would be very much surprised. This, of course, is so different from the good old way of the Fatherland, where, after long and careful debating and consideration, an Honorable City Council would perhaps permit repairs of said bridge, even a rail- ing, while the execution of the municipal edict might drag along for a year. Yes, our people are thorough whenever they undertook a thing, but so slow! It is impossible for me to leave the harbor without due mention of the many magnificent vessels, which are here in plain sight. Some of the models before my daily gaze overshadow everything I have seen anywhere thus far. The American clipper has particularly attracted my at- tention; it is a production of the last few years and has not been very long in practical use. The chief object of the ship builders has evidently been to make a record with these new vessels for unequaled rapidity. Every ON AMERICAN SOIL 181 part of the structure indicates this purpose. In course of a short time this new line of vessels has reached such a marvelous degree of superiority that clippers of two thousand tons and more sail faster than many of our justly famed steamers, thus breaking the record by cov- ering fourteen to fifteen knots (nearly four German miles) an hour, which is not even taken to be a very remarkable accomplishment by our American brethren. There is, for instance, at anchor in this harbor, the New Year Clipper "Fleeing Cloud," a fine vessel of nineteen hundred tons, which has made the trip from New York with full freight in eighty-nine days and which is the record breaker, as far as hitherto known. Another one, the smaller clipper "Challenge," has made the trip from Valparaiso to this port in twenty-seven days, including four days of calm, while we spent fifty-nine days in mak- ing the passage between the same ports. These clippers aTe, notwithstanding their large freight capacity, the most handsome, easy going and elegant models one can possibly imagine. Special care has been taken to avoid whatever might cause the least resistance to the welcome wind. The whole is in appearance sharp, narrow and long, beautiful to behold. While these well shaped ves- sels are rigged like full-masters, every spare space be- tween the masts is utilized for another smaller sail. There need hardly be any mention of the many steam- ers in this great harbor. Ten or twelve a day leave for inland points or seaward, while as many incoming vessels anchor daily, among which may be seen the smallest fish- ing boats and the largest merchant-men often more than two hundred and fifty feet long. The number of steam- ers regularly running between this and foreign ports is given by harbor officials as from one hundred and forty to one hundred and sixty. Thus far the city and its harbor. Let us now describe the people. 182 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE The People of San Francisco. It was in Valparaiso where a young Frenchman— one of the satirical kind, who ridicule everybody and every- thing that does not strike their particular fancy at any particular hour— for the French, as a nation as well as individuals, are very much subject to the impulse of the moment— expressed himself about San Francisco and its inhabitants as follows: "Vous n' y trouverez pas des hommes, seulement des sacs a 1 'argent, ou remplis ou vides." "You will not find any human beings there, only money bags, either filled or empty." I have not been here sufficiently long to know exactly how far this man's sarcastic saying may be justified but, judging from the kind welcome I have received every- where so far, I am rather* inclined to take his words at a discount as an intended bon-mot rather than as ab- solute truth. Variegated as is this metropolis of the West itself, are the many people who crowd the streets, be they afoot, in carriages or on horseback. I do not think that there is a nation, representatives of which are not to be found in every sphere of local society : Yankees, Mexicanos, Peru- vians, Chileans, Firelanders, Italians, Malays, Siamese, Creoles, Mulattoes, Negroes, Chinese, Indians— in short, Jews and Gentiles of all nations people the ever-crowded streets in their respective national costumes. No matter where the stranger may hail from, he is sure to find sooner or later some congenial countryman with whom he can chat in his mother tongue. Of course, English being the language of this country is the most spoken, but German, French and Spanish are heard almost as often, so that one ought to be able to converse fluently in four languages in order to move with ease among all classes of local society, and there is no doubt in my mind that every retail merchant of this city is daily or even hourly called upon to answer in at least three of the above named languages. No wonder therefore that almost ON AMERICAN SOIL 183 every one of them— though he may be often unable to go beyond "yes" or "no" and to count (on his fingers) — has a very conspicuous sign in his show window an- nouncing his linguistic ability in words like: "Aqui se habla espanol; " "Ici on parle franc;ais," and "Hier spricht man Deutsch." In this respect most seaports are alike. Considering the great mixture of elements, each one representing different modes of living, thinking, acting, each individual educated and raised in different zones from those of his neighbors, impressed from child- hood with different principles, different ideas of right and wrong; they are united only in one purpose, namely, a desire to become rich as quickly as possible. Does it or should it astonish you that one's personal safety and that of his property are not as yet as firmly assured as in other civilized states? Notwithstanding all this, I can truly say that the average opinion in this respect of the folks at home is a very erroneous one, even exaggerated. Our daily communications and means thereof are now no more endangered by criminals and actual crimes than in any other city which has so large an influx of foreign elements. In order to explain to you the circumstances which brought about a radical change in the social conditions, changing the most disreputable state of disorder and law- lessness into one of absolute safety, I shall have to take you back in spirit over a period of about nine months, to a time when lawlessness was at its very height. This re- quires likewise a detailed account of lyneh-law ami its executions during the last year. As these events which I am about to relate have very likely been reported in fragments or in such distorted fashion that you will not have been able to get correct impressions of the matter, I have taken particular pains to get at the very truth of this history making epoch of San Francisco. I conse- quently vouch for the reliability of the following descrip- tion, as it has been told me by Boettcher, a man who had been one of the prime factors of the movement and in whose veracity I have the utmost confidence. 184 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Until May 3d of last year the danger to person and property had reached a height surpassing belief, both in the city and in the interior, where the worst imaginable conditions are said to have prevailed. It had come to the point that no one dared to venture upon the street with- out a pistol or dagger, even in broad daylight. In out- lying parts of the city, precaution was taken after dark to call for signals of recognition; and even then one per- son meeting another would be ready for an emergency by keeping his weapon in hand, so that at the first suspicious movement on the part of the stranger, he might be able to defend himself on the instant. Every issue of the daily papers would contain two or three columns of sensational reports of criminal assaults, highway robberies, break- ing into stores, thieving in every conceivable way, etc. Among these short accounts one often reads of the most daring broad-day crimes, executed in crowded thorough- fares with such boldness and absolute insolence as to baffle all description. No wonder therefore that the local authorities became practically helpless and unable to put down the growing lawlessness; and the punishment of guilty parties became more and more difficult; while law- abiding citizens openly accused officials of accepting bribes. The work hating, hoodlum classes seemed to feel licensed to prey upon the public like so many human vul- tures. Lawyers and even judges of police and superior courts had become corrupt, and it became known that large sums of money had gone into their pockets in order to facilitate the escape of criminals through loopholes and technicalities which the minions of the law knew so well how to manipulate in behalf of their clients. The natural consequence was that the indignation of all right- minded people rose in proportion to the evergrowing number of criminals; and it finally reached a climax at the time of the May conflagration which impoverished thousands of honest, hard working inhabitants, and which, being the work of incendiaries, was accompanied by a large number of lesser crimes. All classes of society would have dissolved under similar conditions in any ON AMERICAN SOIL 185 part of the wide world, and a more or less revolutionary uprising would have been the necessary and unavoidable consequence of similar events in Europe; but the Ameri- can imbibes with his mother's milk not only a certain respect for law and order but an undeniable talent for self-government, which saved him in this instance from mob violence, notwithstanding the fact that the munic- ipal authorities showed a woeful lack of power, yea worse, a great weakness for ill-gotten gains. Thus every indi- vidual suspected his next door neighbor and was ever on his guard to protect his own belongings against the fancied or real covetousness of the other; each one kept a watchful eye by day and night. People went about troubled in mind and ghastly in mien, for they never knew what news the homecoming might have in store for them. In order to meet this ever growing distrust and worry, the citizens had to determine upon some very de- cided course of action in order to protect home and prop- erty. Thus it happened that toward the end of May, six of the most respected citizens inaugurated a movement which was destined to bring about a radical change for the better. These aforementioned men, having quietly invited their most trustworthy acquaintances to join them in secret in a well known hall on Sansom street, succeeded in calling a gathering of about sixty picked men of the most reliable merchants and tradesmen, all residents, both Americans and foreigners. Each one appeared well armed and bound to secrecy. This assemblage knew that they were called for a purpose and proceeded at once to select from among their number temporary president and secretaries, after which they decided upon a constitution and by-laws, laying down some sort of program for the newly created secret society, the purpose of which was given out in the following condensed announcement: "The undersigned citizens realize that if the present state of affairs should be allowed to continue, a total up- heaval of all that right and order call for would have to be expected, as the action or inaction of the local munic- ipal authorities has given convincing proof of their lack 186 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE of power and even of good will, failing, too, in protecting the working citizen, wherefore they have decided to take this duty upon themselves and thus to adopt a self-pro- tecting law, vowing to stand all for one and one for all." After all present had affirmed the above by a solemn oath, the next step was to increase the membership by inviting men who were recommended and vouched for by those present, who were looked upon as the charter members of this young organization. In three days the society counted no less than two hundred and eighty members, all of them picked and sworn; this number was considered sufficient to make an energetic start. Dur- ing the second meeting, likewise armed, the members were divided into committees and sections. At first a per- manent watch was established at the meeting place on Sansom street ; then a number of small patrols, well armed but bearing no outward sign of any but the peaceful mis- sion of their respective vocation or leisure's pursuits. Thus hundreds of eager eyes kept watch by day and night, enveloping the city like a network of vigilance. And all this without the slightest knowledge of anybody except the chosen few. They thus constituted a well or- ganized secret police, acting without the knowledge or aid of the municipal authorities. The second day after the vigilance committee had com- menced its active and effective work, one of its patrols succeeded in catching a thief, who had stolen a bag of money from an office and, while trying to escape with his plunder in rowing across the bay, fell into the hands of the patrol. A meeting was called hurriedly at Sansom street headquarters, the culprit brought before the presi- dent and identified as one Jenkins, ex-Sydney convict. The witnesses proved the correctness of the charge and the president picked a jury of twelve persons, who, duly sworn, returned a unanimous verdict of guilty. As not one of those present voiced an objection, the president condemned the defendant amidst profound silence to ex- piate his crime on the scaffold, the hanging to take place within half an hour. Meanwhile it had been ordered that ON AMERICAN SOIL 187 the occurrence should be partly made known in the city, in older to prepare the citizens for an extraordinary event, without giving exact details as to what to expect. Tims no one outside the sworn members of the organiza- tion knew anything definite, but even the late hour did not prevent the gathering of an enormous crowd at the plaza— a large square in the most frequented part of the city. Expectancy was at its height. About half past eleven there appeared the criminal Jenkins, surrounded by twenty-four armed men, members of the lynching com- mittee. A scaffold had been erected and was now the des- tination of the culprit, though an unsuccessful attempt had been made by a few regular policemen to break the cordon; the order to stand back and the significant dis- play of pistols had its wholesome effect upon these so- called agents of public safety. AVhen the place of hang- ing had been reached the chosen leader of the band of lynchers, climbing upon a table and in the torchlight, ad- dressed the multitude, which had reached a number of at least twelve thousand people. He dwelt eloquently upon the present state of affairs and this particular event, end- ing his fiery speech with these words: "Citizens of San Francisco! Is it your will that this criminal Jenkins, who has been found guilty of robbery, shall lose his life by the rope?" A thundering "yes" from thousands of voices was the answer and when the sound began to die away the lifeless body of Jenkins was already swinging in midnight air! This daring deed had given publicity to the existence and purpose of the society and the crisis was overcome. Everybody indorsed the action of the lynchers and the demand for admission to membership reached such pro- portions that the names of nearly every honest and armed man in the city appeared on the membership roll within the next few weeks. Of course, it became necessary to reconstruct the by-laws and reorganize committees, sub- divide patrols and plan the whole working on a larger and more effective scale. It was therefore decided to 188 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE select an Executive Body of two hundred men, known henceforth as "Vigilance Committee" which would take upon itself the authoritative patroling and general man- agement of this protective policy. The city was divided into districts, harbor, water front, city and suburban dis- tricts; all had their vigilance patrols, while those mem- bers of society who had not been detailed to duty formed a sort of secret agency, which in all probability has never been known to work with greater precision, greater har- mony and consequently to better effect. So-called "fences," that is, houses of people who harbor stolen goods, were searched and a great many arrests were made without giving newspaper publicity. In a short time branch committees of the vigilance organization were established throughout the state and many a criminal fugitive from justice was caught in a far away hiding place of the mining districts in the Sierras. Even steam- ers were pressed into service to follow the tracks of escaped culprits, to Mazatlan and Panama, in order to return them to San Francisco jurisdiction. Naturally, enormous sums of money were needed for such extensive prosecution but that did not hinder the progress of the movement, which had set for its purpose the complete suppression of the lawless element and whenever the monthly contributions of the members, five dollars a head, proved insufficient, calls for public contributions were so well responded to that whatever sums were needed could be raised in a few hours. I suppose you will be shocked to hear that but one form of punishment was dealt out— the rope. Under these circumstances the state of affairs improved hourly and the safety of the lives and property of citizens became more and more evident. Any person whose conscience accused him of misdeeds sought safety in flight; for, to be caught, to be convicted and to be hung was but the experience of a few hours. The former pos- sibilities, yea probabilities of escape through legal loop- holes were things of the past, as the lynch committee would acknowledge no other testimony and deal out jus- tice through no other channels but that of the conscience ON AMERICAN SOIL 189 of honest men, whose final judgment bore the stamp oi sound sense. However, the committee had set its ambition higher than merely to clear the city and surrounding country of vagabonds of every description, who had openly sinned against law, life and property. It directed its energies likewise against those wdio had helped or hidden the criminals in their respective positions as lawyers, judges, receivers of stolen goods or as den or dive keepers of more or less importance. It was naturally 7iot very easy to bring this class of malefactors to justice, to convict and condemn them to the well earned rope, but they were nev- ertheless dealt with most effectively. The judges and lawyers were practically ruined by the arousing of public opinion against them by publishing in the most popular dailies the trials of noted criminals in the course of which these men had proven themselves unworthy of their call- ing by manipulating evidence in favor of this or the other law breaker, giving full particulars of the tricks used in such cases. By this and similar means they became ex- posed to the wrath of the people, and not only lost their patronage among the honest citizens but generally earned their well deserved public contempt; and whenever they appeared in the streets they were greeted with hisses, shouts and other degrading expressions. As this class of men had accumulated more or less wealth they disap- peared one by one, without noise and without special farewell services. Thus San Francisco was effectually freed from this most undesirable gentry. Next in order were the keepers of " fences" and dens, called "cribs," the number, exact list of names and biographies of which had been secured by the vigilance committee by means of secret service men. With these another process was enacted. Most of these fellows were ex-convicts from Sydney, Australia, and, according to information obtained, either exiled, escaped or discharged from there. They were dealt with very effectually and by rather short methods. The vigilance committee paid passage on an outgoing vessel, bound for Sydney, for the 190 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE whole outfit, numbering more than thirty, and sent every one of them the following notice on the same day: "Five days after date you will have to leave the city of San Francisco and Upper California forever. Passage has been paid for you on board of the vessel 'N,' Captain l N,' in this harbor, bound for Sydney. Ticket herewith enclosed. "The Vigilance Committee." No further signature was attached to this laconic noti- fication of their banishment but so panic stricken were the recipients by the order of the all-powerful committee that all but one hastened to comply without making an at- tempt at delay by contradiction. One, however, thought himself immune, pretending that nobody would be able to prove his actual guilt and— he remained. To his amaze- ment he found his house one fine morning surrounded by two hundred well armed men. Every particle of his be- longings were packed on a wagon, whereupon he himself was given a free ride to the building of the vigilance com- mittee on Battery street, where he was held prisoner for eight days, i. e., until the departure of another Sydney bound vessel, when he and his belongings were taken on board and he was bidden farewell. This man had suf- fered veritable death agony during the eight days of his involuntary imprisonment in the Battery street jail, which inmates in those days were seldom known to have left— except to ascend the scaffold. No wonder that he was happy to have saved his neck, even in this manner. The municipal authorities, for weighty reasons of their own, dared not interfere, and thus the vigilance commit- tee held full sway until the former commenced to feel the sting of public disdain, as well as chagrined that their presence and offices cut so small a figure in public opin- ion. They then planned to regain the power which, in their opinion, the vigilance committee had usurped. An opportunity for their intended action seemed to have come. With the beginning of August the arduous work of the purification by the vigilance committee seemed to have been nearly completed. There remained, how- ever, among a few others a band of very dangerous ON AMERICAN SOIL 191 criminals, all of whom were Sydney men, who had been sought in vain for many months. They were five: Robinson, Hamilton, Thompson, Whittaker and MacKenzie. At last the three first named were caught in the neighborhood of Sacramento, while about to add a new crime to their already heavy list. To the sleuths of the Sacramento branch committee belonged the credit of catching Thompson and Hamilton, while Rob- inson was caught by the regular authorities of San Fran- cisco. All three were incendiaries or highway robbers, but owing to the mixed associations in their many mis- deeds the trial lasted considerably longer than it other- wise would have done. The fact that their crimes had been committed in different parts of the state had also delayed matters, as it was the purpose of the committee to lift the veil from all their misdeeds before sentencing them. Finally, toward the middle of August, the other two miscreants, Whittaker and MacKenzie, were caught and taken to the headquarters of the vigilance commit- tee in San Francisco, after which the trial took a quicker turn. As you will have observed, the fact was that the trial against these five malefactors had to be divided into three parts and, still worse, it had to be carried on in different cities and under distinct authorities, virtually on bad footing with each other, which surely did not help nor hasten matters. Robinson was tried in the regular criminal court of San Francisco, Thompson and Hamil- ton stood before the vigilance committee, Sacramento branch, while Whittaker and MacKenzie had to face the main committee in this city. It was on the eighteenth of August when Whittaker and MacKenzie were ad- judged guilty and condemned to be hung the next morn- ing. During the night the unexpected happened. It had not been thought necessary to keep an unusually numer- ous guard on the occasion and it was therefore an easy matter for the sheriff and a few well armed officers to take possession of the two criminal-', whom they led to the prison on Telegraph TTill. Meanwhile the trial against Robinson before the criminal court in Sacramento had 192 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE come to an end on the twentieth of August, resulting in death sentence for the defendant. The execution was to have taken place on the twenty-first of August, instead of which the authorities proclaimed the governor's pardon of said Robinson who had actually confessed to murder and incendiarism. This gubernatorial act of injustice naturally caused an outburst of wrath from the justly embittered populace, who arose and loudly demanded the execution of the other two law breakers. Meanwhile the vigilance branch committee, forewarned by the kid- naping experience of the other prisoners by the San Francisco sheriff, hastened to hang the two companions of Robinson, Thompson and Hamilton on the twenty- second of August in the public square of Sacramento. And now happened the incredible. Robinson, already freed, had the unprecedented nerve and morbid curiosity to watch the execution from among the many witnesses. As he had taken no precaution whatever to avoid being recognized he was caught anew and the leaders of the committee ordered at once a third scaffold to be erected. This was done in a moment, boards being roughly nailed together— for the purpose — and before his two companions in crime had breathed their last this bandit, too, notwithstanding the governor's pardon, was swinging in mid air, suspended at the end of a rope. Though the central committee of the vigilance organ- ization in San Francisco had been greatly exasperated by the kidnaping of the two condemned criminals by the municipal authorities, it took all possible means to calm the great excitement of the general populace, in order to prevent an open rupture with the legal heads of the city government, such as any revolt on the part of over- zealous citizens would undoubtedly have brought about. This, however, did not mean that the committee would willingly stand by to see the previously condemned men escape execution of their sentence, after so much time, effort and money had been spent to reach the ends of justice. It was therefore secretly decided that the pris- oners should be re-taken by means similar to those used OX AMERICAN SOIL 193 by order of the regular authorities, that is, by finesse. It came therefore to pass on Sunday, the twenty-fourth of August, that one of the initiated obtained permission to enter the city prison, while the prisoners were assembled in the chapel to attend Divine Service. When the door was partly opened to receive him this man took such a position that it became impossible for the doorkeeper to close the gate without using force. Before he had a chance to call for aid the visitor had given a signal in answer to which forty heavily armed strangers appeared upon the scene to give the first visitor their aid. Whit- taker and MacKenzie were then overpowered without any trouble, placed in a waiting vehicle, which drove them at full speed to the Battery street branch of the vigilance committee, where they were made to expiate their crimes by means of a rope, which was fastened to the window casements, whilst an enormous crowd cheered lustily without. This was the last public act of the vigilance committee during the past year, as it slowly yielded its power to the proper municipal authorities, not, however, without a very plain, explicit understanding that its services could again be relied upon should public safety require them. San Francisco owes this body of clean, tried men a great deal more than the world will ever know. As al- ready mentioned, safety to life on our streets is at pres- ent as effectually assured as it is anywhere in large cit- ies; and although the majority of citizens continue to go about armed, it is more from the force of habit ac- quired than by reason of fear. It is true, however, that one has to be on one's guard and avoid quarrel, as the least word-duel is apt to end in a pistolade, as there seems yet to be much inclination to meet an insult with a bullet. But all peaceably minded persons who go quietly about their daily occupation, avoiding everything that is not part of their legitimate line of work, but who seek only to earn daily bread will seldom be annoyed by ruffians. It cannot naturally be expected of me to have gained a reliable insight into the business affairs of this great 194 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE Western city during my short stay of a fortnight. Mer- chants, however, are heard to complain at present of con- siderable pressure brought about by overproduction and scarcity in the money market. It thus happened that my many efforts, aided by most excellent recommenda- tions and personal endeavors of newly found friends, failed to secure for me a position as clerk. But there are thousands of ways and means of support in x\merica, which, if they do not serve for anything better, will at least surely keep the wolf from the door. Mercantile establishments are mostly in the hands of either North Americans, Englishmen or Germans, while there are likewise some very rich and respected Chilean firms, but very few French and Mexican business houses. The Chinese, too, go into business ventures once in a while, but rarely on a large scale, though many of them are very rich and could easily have the largest establish- ments in the city, if money were the sole factor. Each na- tionality tries to preserve its own peculiar character and, as will be readily understood, the general hunt for money and riches does not always bring out the better qualities of men to advantage, but rather tends to bring the weak ones into daily display. While it cannot be denied that some acquire riches in comparatively few years, most foreigners remain but a short time, only to return home with disappointed hopes and shattered expectations; they, however, make room for newcomers; new elements take the vacant places, and the merry war for earthly posses- sions continues. The sooner the European realizes that the only safe way toward accumulating money is to work for it, the better for him. There is not one out of a hun- dred who grows rich rapidly, and here as elsewhere the old adage: "Honesty is the best paying policy,' * is in reality the only "golden rule" one should follow in business as well as in private life. Though we generally believe that time is all-powerful in smoothing conditions and harmonizing difficulties and national peculiarities, there seems to be astonishingly little assimilation be- tween the different nations; they seem to remain inten- ON AMERICAN SOIL 195 tionally and distinctly foreign to each other. Of all for- eigners, the German seems to command the highest re- spect in public opinion. The American respects him, and — please do not laugh at the comparison — the Chinaman seems to honor him above all foreigners. Both of these nations have obtained the good will of the natives by their soberness, honesty and industry, which qualities the real Yankee the more admires, as he sees in them the fundamental principles of a great nation. Englishmen and Americans seem to get along fairly well, but a close observer will be very much amused at times, and unin- tentionally think of long forgotten mother goose stories of cat and dog. When the Englishman goes with hands in his wide trousers, whistling his "Rule Britannia" or some other of his national songs, the genuine Yankee (if one happens to be walking behind him) cannot refrain from humming "Yankee Doodle," a by no means com- plimentary song to the Briton. Frenchmen find no favor in the eye of the native Amer- ican, who cares little for them. "All French humbug" is a saying frequently heard in American circles. The fact is that, though present in large numbers, they sel- dom show visible means of support. Most of them are waiters, restaurant keepers or professional gamblers, though, here as everywhere else, one finds noble excep- tions. Women are scarce in this part of the New World, though I am told that they are much more numerous now than a few years ago. Having mentioned before that the French population in this city consists to a certain extent of professional gamblers, I am led to say a few words about the gambling houses, of which so many strange stories have been told abroad. The fact is, they long ago outlived their noto- riety. The magnificent, gorgeously decorated halls of such places as the "Veranda," "Eldorado," "Union Hotel," "Oregon House" and a few others, the pomp and fascinating attractiveness of which are certainly not out- done even by public resorts of Hamburg or Berlin, are 196 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE now mostly deserted in daytime, and frequented at night by sailors or lucky miners, who cannot rid themselves quickly enough of their hard-earned money. The for- merly rich display of gold by the bank holders of the green table has diminished to such an extent that one rarely sees a few pieces exhibited and even in the largest establishments, where formerly hundreds of twenty dol- lar gold pieces tempted the gaping crowds to try their chances, today the smallest current coin— one bit— (or Spanish "real," one-eighth of a dollar) will not be re- fused by the keeper or bookmaker. This rapidly decreas- ing popularity of gambling houses is a most convincing proof of the immeasurable success of the Vigilance-Ke- form movement, as well as of all-powerful "public opin- ion" in America. And Jean Galbert de Campistron, the great French playwright, who indignantly asked: "The public! the public! how many fools are required to make up a public?" would indeed be ill at ease in this country. A few well worded newspaper articles proved sufficient to incense the people against these academies of vice and breathing places of immorality. Had not our greatest living poet, Ferdinand Freiligrath, whom Americans honor as the most beloved German friend of their own Longfellow, blasted all hopes of speculating gamblers to establish their nefarious bank in the ruins of the old his- toric castle Ebernburg, by a single poem: "The Monu- ment," which appeared a few years ago in the "Cologne Gazette," the San Francisco newspaper success would have won an unprecedented victory, which, however, is great and praiseworthy enough in itself. Thanks to this noble effort of the press, to be a gambler, has since be- come the worst thing that can be said of a man. The American press differs from that of our methodical home periodicals. It is very much more alive and awake to the fact that it has to serve purposes of which the solid ' ' Old World ' ' has little or no conception. It may have its faults but then it has greater responsibilities, greater aims and is consequently more heeded by the reading musses than its pompous contemporaries abroad. Its edi- ( ).\ AMERICAN SOIL 197 torials are the expressions of free men, who say what is uppermost in their mind, without fear of government cen- sure or imprisonment. No wonder then that the press is one of the pillars of this country. It fully deserves rec- ognition. As to myself, I cannot tell you just yet what I may chose to do in case my endeavors to obtain a paying posi- tion in this city should not be crowned with success within the next few days, though I shall very likely take the next best chance to try my luck in the mines. To do this will be, if nothing else, an educating experiment, and without overworking one's self, one can easily make the necessary expenses of daily life and in the meantime gain an opportunity of making a wholesome study of the nat- ural conditions of the country. There is, of course, no more hope for immense riches for miners, as in days gone by, when a globe trotter would accidentally stumble over a lump of pure gold. Still, by industry, persevering and saving, one can yet accumulate a moderate sum in a longer or shorter time, as fortune may permit. I board at present with Griinhagen and Olias in Boettcher's resi- dence, about a (German) mile from San Francisco, in a charming place, which is well named "Pleasant Valley." There are several young clerks from the city, all Ger- mans, rooming in the same house, so that we number a round dozen at the dinner table. The walk to town is very agreeable and takes but half an hour. My expenditure amounts to twelve dollars a week for room and board, which will prove to you that living expenses are not nearly as high as in days gone by. I live well at that, and, as far as eating and drinking goes, far better than at home. Life in hotels and saloons, however, is very ex- pensive; so are the three best theaters of this city — the American Theater, the "Jenny Lind" and the Theatre Francais— where tickets for seats in the loges or dress circles arc three dollars apiece. Wine seems to be cheaper here than in the large vineyards. For instance, a gallon — abont five bottles and a half of good table wine— costs but four bits or one-hall* dollar, and the best champagne 198 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE no more than four dollars a gallon, which makes it pos- sible for the poorest day laborer who shoves a hand cart or carries a hod to include half a bottle of wine in his bill of fare. And the California wine is fully as good as the French wines, so-called, which we purchase at home; at any rate you get what you pay for. Business men, as a rule, eat after what is called the American plan, and which is a very sensible one, in my estimation. About eight o'clock in the morning one starts with a good warm breakfast, consisting of beefsteak, chops, roast beef or something of that sort, winding up with a cup of good coffee. About noon one indulges in a so-called lunch, that means a glass or two of wine, bread and cheese or cold viands, and enjoys the principal meal at six o'clock, after the cares and worries of the day are over and the office is closed. This mode of living suits me exceedingly well, yes, even better than our home method with its five meals. By this method the day is not much divided, and one can follow one 's pursuits without being interrupted every two or three hours, and the natural consequence is that the American accomplishes more in a day than his Euro- pean competitor. Though we are said to live in the midst of the rainy season, I confess that so far I have not seen a drop. The air is warm and most agreeable in daytime, the sky clear and of a tropical blue, and Mother Nature is clad in a pretty green; the nights, however, are decidedly cold and remind me quite often of the dear ones at the fireside at home. The mines, too, are said to lack rain, particularly in the more southern region. A few days ago I had a very interesting chat with a miner from the San Joaquin country, who complained greatly about the lack of water in the "diggings." He claimed to have worked four long months without being able to wash a handful of the earth. Having thus spent his money for necessities of life, he found himself compelled to look for work in San Fran- cisco until the long-looked-for rain would give him a chance to sift the proceeds of his months of hard labor. And there are hundreds of men sharing the same fate ON AMERICAN SOIL 199 and consequently very dejected and compelled to look for temporary employment that may stay the tide till St. Peter opens the channels of relief. The Northern mines, on the contrary, are filled with snow and ice, which makes the working of them impossible, though many of the min- ers, who have spent the winter here, are preparing al- ready for another season of hard work and uncertain results. Such is life in the Wild "West. Meanwhile, I have made the best of the beautiful weather by taking little excursions into the surrounding country, which, though picturesque in places, cannot be called beautiful. The surface is hilly and sandy, covered with shrubbery and here and there interspersed with marshes, which are mostly to be found along the bay; weeds and impenetrable shrubbery grow in abundance and harbor large numbers of snakes and other reptiles, as well as wolves and even bears. Sea fowls nest there in fabulous quantities. The closer to the city, the more the clearing of the creeks for the purpose of draining has progressed. One of the finest spots just outside the city is Monte Dolores, a hill of about twelve to eighteen hundred feet in height; from its summit, which it is not difficult to reach, the visitor has a beautiful panorama before him: San Francisco with its fine harbor and the Golden Gate; the bay with its attractive islands on one side and the Pacific Ocean, in all its majesty, on the other. There is a boulevard, laid out with planks, which leads from the Mission Dolores to the foot of the hill and is frequented on Sundays by pleasure seekers, promenading families, ladies in elegant carriages, people on horseback, all bent upon enjoying the sights which Mother Nature presents. "Were it not for an occasional redman (Indian) or the ever present yellow Mongolian with his long, coal black queue, one would fancy one's self transported to one of the much sought promenades of a German city, for instance, the ever memorable Hamburg boulevard leading to Blank - enese (which I have described elsewhere) instead of being on the far away "Western coast of North America. I won- 200 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE der whether I am safe from your criticism in mentioning that one may tramp through corn fields and meadows without being fined, as is customary elsewhere. It is ad- visable, however, to avoid bands of cattle, which is not always a safe thing to do. At the foothills especially the cattle are very plentiful, and they roam about uncared- for, looking for food, wherever it may be found. Most of these animals are uncommonly large, powerfully strong and often decidedly hostile in disposition; they have large, sharp pointed horns, and an attack upon man is not at all an unfrequent occurrence. Only a few days ago it happened that a Kentuckian was attacked in a neighboring creek by two cows and though he managed to kill one of them outright with his gun, he was mis- erably harpooned by the sharp horns of the other and finally lost his life in the struggle. Still wilder and consequently more dangerous are the cattle in the in- land on the other side of the bay, known as " Contra Costa." To give you a more correct idea of the situa- tion, I may add that even the Mexican rancheros, known for their daring and unsurpassed horsemanship, who are almost born in the saddle and raised among herds of wild cattle, who never throw their lasso in vain, nor fire a pistol without hitting the mark, even they, I say, though provided with tried horses and reliable weapons, will never venture alone into those herds to catch an ox for slaughter. The interior of the country is said to be uncommonly romantic and decidedly picturesque and of so changeable a character that even the most experi- enced world-trotters have been surprised at the manifold grandeur of California scenery. While one may enjoy for a few moments a typically Dutch rural scene, there appears suddenly a magnificent mountain view, with its wild, noisy waters, and impenetrable virgin forests. While it is perfectly true that the high mountains of which I gained a very satisfactory view from the neigh- boring hill-tops, are indeed promising, I shall not art- tempt to give you the descriptions of other people, but prefer to wait until I can judge and tell from personal experience and observation. ON AMERICAN SOIL 201 San Francisco, California, the 31st of January, 1852. As there remain but a few more minutes until the closing of the European mail, I shall make use of them by adding a few more words to those, who I know, will enjoy them. It is so difficult to tear one's self from a letter, which is homeward bound, across the many thou- sands of miles, that I cannot let go until "time sets my nails afire" (German idiom). I am at this hour quite determined to try my luck in the mines and shall leave for the interior next Tuesday, the third of February, via Benicia and Stockton, in order to continue along the Stanislaus, a branch of the San Joaquin River, then pass- ing Sonora City, enter the Sierra Nevada as far as I pos- sibly can. In all probability I shall not return to civili- zation very soon and, as 3 r ou will easily comprehend, pos- tal facilities are absolutely unknown in those regions, many of which have never been visited by a pale-face be- fore. Of course, it remains an open question how soon you will receive my next letter, while this one, I trust, will keep you busy reading and re-reading for many a day. Do not worry about me, dear parents, and do not forget that California has ceased to be a nest of robbers and highwaymen. The severe laws, which the miners have enacted in their own behalf and for the preserva- tion of order in their own camps, and which they exe- cute with unrelenting vigor, frighten away criminals from the most remote camps. Even the petty thief, if caught in the act, is sent into eternity by the "rope- route." As the miners— rough and ready— are in the habit of doing those things quickly, we should not be sur- prised that their method has a wholesome effect upon the long-fingered gentry, most of whom are cowards by nature, and the miner, though he generally carries a warm, yea, philanthropically-disposed heart under a rough exterior, cordially detests cowardice. The next Panama steamer is due since yesterday and is expected to arrive ;it almost any moment. I await her with impatience, hoping sincerely for long-missed news 202 EAST PRUSSIA TO THE GOLDEN GATE from you, which would expel the feeling of uncertainty as to the personal welfare of every one of my loved ones at home. I have openly to confess my great disappointment at the strange fact of not receiving a single letter from you upon landing here and cannot deny that it has depressed and discouraged me for many an hour, and to a great extent emphasized my disappointment at not obtaining employment. Please make up for it by writing long let- ters and real often. It will be advisable to direct the outer envelope as follows: Messrs. Gent, Schott, Boettcher & Co., San Francisco, Upper California. And then put the closed letter into it. The mail will thus receive quicker attention at the post-office than if it were directed to me in care of Boettcher. Please give my very best regards and many thousand greetings to all the loved ones. Do not worry if you do not hear from me within the next few months, but write diligently that I may have plenty to read. I embrace and kiss you all. God be with vou! FRANZ LECOUVREUR. Translator's note: The following pages contain a few timely quotations and thoughts, which the young author enclosed in the above letter, but which had been written on the eve of his departure from Bartenstein. His well-known ad- miration for the exiled poet Heine, who was slowly dying on his mattress-grave, while our friend set foot on Amer- ican soil, led to the first quotation, which refers to the unexpected marriage of the poet's fiancee, Amalie, daughter of Solomon Heine, his multi-millionaire uncle, a fact which the great lyric bemourned in many songs, of which the following is one of the shortest: ON AMERICAN SOIL 203 "Anfangs wollt icli fast verzagen "Und ich glaubt', ich triig es nie— "Und ich hab' es doch ertragen, "Aber fragt' mich nur nicbt wie!" (Translated: "First I almost died despairing "Doubting, that I stand the strain, "Still, I've borne it without yielding "How? You ask of me in vain!" -J. C. B.) Then follows our young author's own composition: "When, in the battle of life, the heart of man is seem- "ingly burning to ashes, in consequence of a stroke of "fate's own lightning, when he sees drop by drop of his "heart's blood trickle into dust, let him not despair, but "rather revive his drooping spirits, as well as his pride, "both of which, aided by perseverance and self-reliance, "will help him to victory in all struggles which the fu- "ture may have in store for him. Help thyself and God il i