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IJ^GUBAJORS /\ND BJ^OODERS. 
 
 How to Build and Successfully Manage them 
 
 TKe Gare^ Cure arAcl P^otectior^ 
 
 -OF- 
 
 POULTRY 
 
 HoW to Bvjild \jp the gualitvj of the Flock. 
 
 The kind of a House to Build; How to Build it, 
 
 -AND- 
 
 OTHER USEFUL INFORMATION 
 
 BY JACOB Y(p%ip r/m^ 
 
 >. ..^^d 
 
 ARKANSAS CITY, KANSAS. 
 
 COPYRIGHTED. 1895. 
 
 qptA ' 
 

 Entered , according to Act of Congress, in the year 1895, by 
 
 JACOB YOST, 
 In the office of the Librarian of Congress, in Washington. 
 
r\trodvictory 
 
 In putting out this book I have kept in mind 
 -.hose to whom it will be of most benefit. I 
 lave had ten years experience in the raising of 
 Doultry and if that experience is worth anything 
 ;o those interested in the business I will feel that 
 I have done weU in imparting desirable informa- 
 cion as well as gaining a profit to myself. 
 
 The description of the machines and build- 
 ings are carried out minutely so that the boys 
 md girls can read them intelligently and by 
 the assistance of the materials and a few tools 
 they will find all the information necessary to 
 carry out everything essential to a successful 
 end. 
 
 The Author. 
 
I 
 
 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 JKe Her\ as a JMoiAevj-maUer. 
 
 The hen converts grass into greenbacks, 
 grain into gold and for the sand and gravel she 
 returns us silver. No other animal on the farm 
 can compare with her. The horse and cow are 
 heavy consumers and with the best economy- 
 are more or less costly. Ihe hen yields the 
 farmer more for the investment than any other 
 animal, and gives him the least trouble. She 
 asks nothing of him unless he chooses to orive it 
 to her, but if he so chooses to supply her needs, 
 she returns the compliment many fold and 
 places at his disposal an article which is demand- 
 ed in his domestic economy. The egg is con- 
 verted into many uses. Its utility is so general 
 that we often lose sight of its importance and 
 fail to give the hen the great credit that is due 
 her. The housewife has need ot the egg in 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 many ways and without it her table would be 
 set with a limited variety. She must have eggs 
 at all times of the year and at whatever cost. 
 In her mind the poultry yard is an essential 
 annex to the kitchen, and from it comes many 
 delicate dishes that cannot be replaced by viands 
 from any other source. The tgg has its place 
 among remedial agents, and in this department 
 has gained for itself no insignificant reputation. 
 Like the song birds the hen is found wherever 
 man sees fit to make his habitation, and how- 
 ever distant in the frontier he may advance the 
 hen is found as his companion. But unlike the 
 song bird the hen, although possessed of wings, 
 stays with him the year round, and when nature 
 fails to give him food she places herself at his 
 service and helps to sustain him. She asks but 
 litde of him for her kindness. The waste from 
 his table is often all that is required. With this 
 she constitutes herself an establishment more 
 valued than the mint, because she helps to pro- 
 vide his essential needs. She is thoroughly a 
 domestic animal, and to do her part in the 
 domestic economy of the home, she must have 
 protection and attention. 
 
 As an investment for profit the hen must be 
 made to lay eggs in winter as well as in spring 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 and summer. To have her do this she must be 
 provided with those comforts that will pl.-.ce her 
 in the proper condition for this service. These 
 are healthy and comfortable quarters and good 
 food. When a hen has to oret out in a snow 
 storm for food or go without, is it any wonder 
 that she does not lay during such weather? 
 Yet many farmers wonder why they don't have 
 eggs to sell when there is a good market for 
 them. Hens will lay in winter time if they are 
 surrounded with the conditions that fit them for 
 it. It is important to have good layers, yet 
 there is not as much importance attached to 
 that fact as there is that they be properly treated. 
 Different breeds of chickens are noted for dif- 
 ferent qualities. Attention paid to the treatment 
 of any breed is productive of more eggs than in 
 the choice of a breed noted for laying. In feed- 
 ing hens in winter give them as many of the sum- 
 mer dishes as you can command, such as gravel, 
 dust baths, greens of different kinds, fresh water 
 not ice cold, meats, ground bone, charcoal and 
 grits of different kinds. 
 
 By the use of an incubator chickens can be 
 hatched at any time of the year, and if the best 
 market is in view, brine the chickens off in 
 February and March. The best time to get 
 
10 Kn JU3AT0R AXI) BROODER. 
 
 an Incubator and a brooder is in the fall. Mv 
 experience proves to me that chickens hatched 
 in an incubator and cared for in a brooder fn^m 
 the middle of September till the middle of Nov- 
 ember, will in this latitude feather out sufficiently 
 Lef ;re cold weather sets in, and be ready to go 
 int) ihe best market of the year as broilers. It 
 is a known fact that with a brooder you can 
 raise 90 per cent, of the chickens hatched while 1 
 the hen raises but 50 per cent, of her brood. ' 
 Then why bother with an old setting hen when 
 the brooder will doubly discount her and be of 
 less trouble? It is also a known fact that the j 
 setting hens breed mites, lice and other vermin I 
 and are the means of infecting the whole flock, 
 while the incubator does not give a chance for 
 vermin of any kind to infect its household. It 
 will require fifteen hens to hatch the same number 
 of eggs as an incubator of 200 egg capacity. 
 These fifteen hens can be made to lay during the 
 three weeks hatchino- time. While the incubator 
 does the hatching the value of the (^<ro-s laved 
 during this time will doubly pay for the oil used 
 in running the incubator. After the hens have 
 brought off their chickens they run with them 
 from six to eight weeks, a period of time which 
 is unprofitable and wholly wasted. The care 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 11 
 
 of the Incubator and brooder combined Is not 
 nearly so much as the care of the hens and their 
 individual broads. With good eggs and proper 
 care two hatchings by the incubator will pay for 
 it and also the brooder. Your Investment Is 
 then back and you have the appliances that will 
 be serviceable for years, to carry on a business 
 that calls for a very small expense. 
 
 Tre Selection of Good Layers. 
 
 Do not keep any chickens that appear stunted. 
 They always degrade the appearance of a flock. 
 When once a fowl becomes stunted It Is not fit 
 for breeding purposes, and In fact Is not worth 
 the keeping. Disease or a tendency towards 
 disease Is hereditarv. Discard all hens that 
 have a tendency to lay on fat, and retain those 
 that under proper feeding will convert the food 
 into eggs Instead of fat. If part of the flock 
 convert the food into fat instead of eggs, the 
 profit is consumed by the drones. No fowl 
 should be retained that does not In some man- 
 ner add to the profit of the flock. Much care 
 should be exercised In selecting layers for breed- 
 ing purposes every year, and in a short time the 
 entire flock will consist of nothing else but lay- 
 
12 INCUBATOE AND BROODER. 
 
 ers. A good layer has a small head a long neck 
 and back, and a wedge shaped body. The 
 eyes are bright and the comb and wattles are 
 of a bright red, she is energetic and active, 
 starting at every sound or motion with an 
 elastic spring. A good layer always lays eggs 
 that will hatch well. The very fact that she is 
 a good layer shows that she is in a healthy con- 
 dition. The result of good laying is the greater 
 number of the eees are fertile, and the chickens 
 will be strong and vigorous. A hen is profit- 
 able until she is three years old. After that the 
 number of eggs she lays will decrease. She 
 should not be kept longer unless she is a 
 "world beater," and is perfectly healthy. The 
 hens that moult early should be kept in pre- 
 ference to those that moult late. They will 
 come into profit early in winter when eggs are 
 yet a good price. 
 
 Why do Hens Stop Laying in Cold Weather. 
 
 The most profitable hens are those which lay 
 at a time when eggs are scarce and consequent- 
 ly dear. The thing to do is to provide condi- 
 tions that will induce hens to lay at the desired 
 time. Laying hens depend less upon the seasons 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 13 
 
 ^an they do upon the weather. This being 
 the case all poultry keepers should provide com- 
 fortable quarters for all kinds of inclement 
 weather, both winter and summer. It is often 
 the case that hens are in good condition and are 
 laying regularly. When the first cold spell 
 comes they suddenly stop laying. This is a 
 matter that is worthy the attention of those 
 interested in poultry and also has its effect upon 
 the consumer. It is a question of no small 
 concern when eggs are worth three cents a piece 
 to have the hens suddenly quit business. Ai this 
 time it is most desirable to have them continue 
 fillincr the eo-or basket and if neccssarv take 
 their vacation at some other time when eggs 
 arc cheaper and the market is full. It seems 
 strange after continuing to lay with due regu- 
 larity for an indefinite period and when eggs 
 are plentiful to stop because the price has 
 advanced. There are causes for all this that 
 are not real. It is not for lack of food as they 
 often stop laying in a single day. It is not due 
 to disease as the hens may be perfectly healthy 
 at such a time. The true cause is for the lack 
 of warmth. The heat of body comes by the 
 digestion of food, and when they are exposed 
 to the cold or inclement weather there is not 
 
14 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 enough oi i.e^t c^eneiaLv^d by their food to pro- 
 tect them sufficiently. Egg production ceases 
 under these conditions, Lecause all the vitality 
 of the hen is required in protection from the 
 cold. 
 
 The remedy for this is to protect against the 
 loss of animal heat. Hence there must be 
 shelter from the cold and additional comforts to 
 keep the conditions as the Ggg laying business 
 requires. 
 
 How TO Prepare For Winter. 
 
 Every one concerned in raising poultry should 
 be fully interested in this part of the business 
 Many persons called breeders of poultry are not 
 deserving of the name. Too often do we see 
 rickety quarters for the chickens that would not 
 serve as a protection from a hail stone, much 
 less from a rain, wind storm or the snows of 
 winter. Besides being rickety it is often found 
 badly located, unclean and full of vermin, and 
 yet the chickens are expected to maintain this 
 as their quarters and put sheckles into pockets 
 of their lord and master who so generously 
 allows them an existence and a livini^ under such 
 shameful conditions. It would be a credit to 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 such persons to kill off their poultry as an act of 
 charity, burn down the house and go out of the 
 business. If this is the condition of your chicken 
 house, dear reader, don't let another day pass until 
 you have set about providing better and more 
 comfortable quarters for the bird that has been 
 provided for you, and which serves you in a man- 
 ner that deserves your best efforts and most 
 devoted attention. Build a good double wall 
 chicken house, well ventilated, with shed on south 
 side, with plenty of glass for h'ght and sunshine 
 for their winter quarters. After providing com- 
 fortable quarters feed them warm food in the 
 morninors. Throw fine erain in amone some 
 straw to keep them working during the day. 
 When the weather is cold never let them drink 
 ice cold water. Always empty the drinking 
 vessels in the evenine and never eive them 
 water in the morning until they have had their 
 mornine feed. Don't let the cold air enter the 
 ventilators, cracks or other openings in stormy 
 weather. If you wish the hens to lay in winter 
 as they do in summer provide similar conditions, 
 and they will do the work to your satisfaction. 
 If the poultry is placed in these conditions they 
 will amply repay for all trouble, and be a source 
 of profit and plocisure to their owner. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 19 
 
 HoW to Make IrACvibator No. 1 
 
 Capacity 300 Eggs. 
 
 An Incubator is made up essentially of four 
 parts and is built in the order here named . A ven- 
 tilator, an egg chamber, a hot water tank, and the 
 outer cabinet enclosing these parts. Use J's inch 
 lumber, unless otherwise mentioned. Make a 
 frame with front piece 33,/j^ inches wide by 4 feet 9 
 inches long, back piece 3^ inches wide by 4 feet 
 77-16 inches long, end pieces p/^ inches by 2 feet 
 1 1 inches long. Nail front pieces on ends, put 
 back piece between ends, making distance be- 
 tween front and back pieces 2 feet 65.^8 inches, cor- 
 ners square. Cover bottom with 1x6 flooring cut 
 5 feet 4 inches long, making ends project 3^ 
 inches. Draw crosswise two lines dividing space 
 enclosed by frame into three equal parts, and one 
 line lengthwise midway between front and back, 
 In center of each square bore a ^ inch hole and 
 cover each hole with a block i inch thick and 3 or 4 
 inches square; and nail fast. Cut 4 pieces i inch 
 
20 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 by I inch by 2 feet 65/8 inces long. Place one 
 in each end and one on each mark drawn 
 across the floor. Fill in with saw-dust, level with 
 the I inch pieces. Cover this again with ^ inch 
 lumber and^nail it securely. Bore the holes on 
 through the pieces last put on. Cover the last 
 floor with building paper and fasten with 4 oz. 
 tacks. In each hole put a tin tube from the 
 upper side. Make 24 pieces ^ inch by ^ inch 
 by 8 inches long. Nail two of these pieces 
 edgewise and crossways of frame one inch apart 
 so that the hole is between them and equally 
 distant from their ends. Cover these pieces 
 with a strip of zinc two inches wide and eight 
 inches long, and tack it on so that the edges of 
 the zinc are flush with the outer edcres of the 
 wood strips. This forms an inlet for the cold 
 air. Four inches on each side of the strip of zinc 
 nail another strip of v/ood edgewise. These 
 form a rest for the moisture pan. Place zincs 
 and wood strips on the remaining holes in the 
 same manner. From each projecting corner of 
 the lower floor cut out a piece 3^ inches, 
 square. 
 
 Cut two boards 10 inches wide and 2 feet 
 1 1 Vi inches longf, and one board 10 inches wide 
 and 4 feet 9 inches long. The shorter boards 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 21 
 
 are to be nailed to the ends ot tiie ventilator 
 Frame with the lower edges lyi inches below 
 the upper edge of the frame and the front end 
 flush with the front board of the frame. The 
 longest board forms the back and is to be nailed 
 between the ends behind and next to the frame. 
 Cut out 7/^ inche sufficient to let the upper 
 cadges of the lo inch board be even. Drive 
 nails so they will not be in the open space which 
 forms the ^gg chamber; otherwise they will in- 
 terfere with the eo-o- drawers. These three 
 boards; form the ends and back of the ^gg 
 chamber. 
 
 Make six pieces for sides of the ^gg drawers 
 3.^8 inch by i J^ inch by 2 feet 8 inches long, also 
 six pieces for ends yi inch by 1 7/^ inches by 
 173^ inches long. Bore a ^ inch hole ^ inch 
 from the lower edore of the center of each of the 
 end pieces. Saw a piece out from the lower 
 edge up to the hole yi inch wide. This forms a 
 slot for the turning hook. Put pieces together 
 by nailing the side pieces on the ends. Make 
 twenty-four pieces ^ inch by i]/^ inch by 2 feet 
 8 inches long. Champer (take off corner) the 
 upper edges to ^ inch on upper surface yi inch 
 on edge. Six of these pieces are to be champ- 
 ered on one edee on I v. Nail eieht of these 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 pieces on the bottom of the frames with tiie 
 champered edges up; the outside strips being 
 those with one champered edge. In nailing 
 these strips on make the spaces between them 
 equal. These champered edges being set in 
 this manner form a coping in which the Ggg is 
 made to roll. Make up the three drawers in 
 this way using i inch brads. Make another 
 rack, to go inside of this frame, 2 feet 4.^4 inches 
 long by 17^ inches wide of ^ inch square 
 pieces, with side pieces nailed onto end pieces. 
 Set edgewise in this frame thirteen cross bars 
 each j^ inch by 3/g inch with i3/^ inch space be- 
 tween them. Before putting frame together 
 lay off and cut out the slots to receive these 
 crossbars. Set the bars so their upper edges- 
 will be level with the upper edge of the frame, 
 This is for the purpose of turning the eggs and 
 for this a screw eye is fastened in each end op- 
 posite the slot in the outer frame and is worked 
 by means of a hook. This rack will have 2}^ 
 inch space to move in and will thus completely 
 turn the egg. After putting the. rack in place 
 secure it by two small blocks on each side leav- 
 ing a little play between blocks and rack. 
 
 Put the egg drawers in place and mark places 
 for the dividing boards. For this purpose make 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 23 
 
 two boards 6j'8 inches wide by 2 feet 8 J^ inches 
 long. Before putting in place nail a half inch 
 square strip on each side on a line that will sup- 
 port and make the drawers run level. Have 
 these boards fit down on the paper neatly. It 
 will be found necessary to cut a piece out of 
 each lower corner. The upper edges form a 
 support for the hot water tank. Secure these 
 dividing boards by nailing through the back 
 board of the e^e chamber. Thev had better be 
 further secured by small corner blocks at the 
 back corners and lower front corners, being care- 
 ful to avoid interfering with the action of the 
 drawer. 
 
 Make four blocks i inch square and 5 inches 
 long. Place one in each corner of the egg 
 chamber resting on the slides on which the draw- 
 ers run. These are to support the tank while 
 securing it in place, and also gives the correct 
 space for the Ggg chamber. For the frame 
 that supports the tank make two pieces 5^ 
 inches by 4 feet 9 inches, and two pieces 5^ 
 inchs by 2 feet 65/8 inches. Put these together 
 by nailing the sides on the ends. One end will 
 come in contact with the pipes. Before nailing 
 get the exact size of the pieces to be cut out. 
 and cut from the lower edge of the board. Af- 
 
24 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 -ler fitting it iieciuy secure it to its place. Set 
 the tank in its place and fasten by nailing 
 throuo^h the flcinore with a few small nails. Have 
 the tank and frame rest on the 5 inch block 
 previously mentioned. In doing this it will be 
 necessary to cut pieces from the 10 inch board 
 to receive the pipes. The tank frame will pass 
 inside of the 10 inch boards that form the egg 
 chamber, and rest on the blocks. After the 
 tank is properly fitted and leveled, nail it secure- 
 ly to place. Avoid puncturing the tank with 
 nails. You are now ready to mark and put on 
 the legs. These are to be made of two parts, 
 the upper or square part that is fastened to the 
 body and the lower or rounded part that forms 
 the support. These are fastened together by a 
 wooden pin being made with the lower part, 
 and the hole in which it fits neatly in the upper 
 part. The object of making them in this way 
 is to enable the cabinet to be passed through 
 any ordinary doorway, by taking off the lower 
 part of the legs. Make^the upper part 33^ in- 
 ches square and 15 inches long. From the 
 lower end of this part measure off 2^ inches 
 on one side. Saw in 7/g inch and down from the 
 top, taking out a piece 7/g inch thick and 12^ 
 inches long. Do so with each of these pieces. 
 
I INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 25 
 
 5et these blocks in corners that have been saw- 
 td out, letting the lo inch board rest on shoulder. 
 Nail these securely to their respective places. 
 
 Make a piece 3^ inches wide and 5 feet 4 
 nches long and nail to front of Ggg chamber 
 lavincr the lower edcre even with the bottom of 
 ower floor. Cut two pieces 3 inchs wide and 
 65/s inches long and fasten one on each end of 
 front by letting it rest on end of the long board 
 just put on. Make the upper piece the same 
 length as lower one and 5^ inches wide. Set 
 this on the end pieces and fasten to the tank 
 frame and upper part of the leg. These pieces 
 form the frame for the glass doors that open in- 
 to the eo^or chamber. Make three frames and 
 fit with glass to fill this opening, one for each 
 chamber. Hinge at the bottom, and have them 
 small enough to leave a space of ys inch at top. 
 While the hatching is going on these frames 
 swell. 
 
 We are now ready to put on the outside work. 
 For the ends cut flooring boards 3 feet S/g inch 
 long. For the back cut three boards 5 feet 
 55/8 inches long. First put on the end boards 
 making them flush with each corner. Then put 
 on the back boards. Nail these securely. 
 Make a door for front 145^ inces wide and 5 
 
26 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 feet long. Hinge this on its lower edge even 
 with the lower floor. When open it will per- 
 mit the chamber doors to open. This door had 
 better be made with end pieces to prevent 
 warping. Make two pieces 2^ inches wide 
 and 145/^ inches long and fasten on the front 
 corners and at the end of the door. Make one 
 piece 5 inches wide and 5 feet 5^ inches long 
 and nail alonor the front and above the door. 
 The space between this outside case and the 
 Ggg chamber is to be filled with sawdust firmly 
 packed, and in case sawdust cannot be had use 
 bran. To prevent this packing from spreading 
 the back out put in a block midway between the 
 ends with its upper end as high as the 10 inch 
 board. Lay a sheet of building paper over the 
 machine with edges flush with outside casing. 
 To cover this top cut eight flooring boards 5 
 feet 7^ inches long. This allows one inch pro- 
 jection all around. In putting this top on be 
 careful to have the hole for the inlet pipe prop- 
 erly located. Under the projection put a j/g inch 
 molding. If desired the top can first be put to- 
 gether with strips and fastened to the case w^ith 
 screws. In case it is desirable to remove it; 
 this way of making it will be found more con- 
 venient. Make four strips to fit in corners. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BEOODER. 27 
 
 Make a frame i8 Inches by i8 inches out- 
 side measurement of i inch by 4 inch lumber. 
 Toe-nail this on top of machine about center. 
 Make a cover for this box same size as inside 
 measure and nail cleats on inside, making the 
 lid sit flush with upper edges of box. Put cleats 
 on lid to prevent warping. Bore five holes i ^ 
 inch in the lid for ventilation. A molding may 
 be put around the bottom of box. This box is 
 known as the nursery. 
 
 Make the lamp box 5^^ inches by 6^ inches 
 inside, and have the back 8 inches wide and ex- 
 tending upward 6)4' inches from the lower end 
 of box. Leave the front open. Shape the side 
 pieces same as shown in cut, and have them 
 14 inches high. Fasten this box on the end of 
 the machine under the center of the large pipe 
 so that the back comes up against under-side of 
 machine, and nail securely. Make an extra bot- 
 tom 7/8 inch thick with handle to place under 
 lamp to hold it up to place. 
 
 ! This machine should be well painted, and in 
 this respect the artistic eye can exercise its 
 fancy. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 29 
 
 |ioW to make tKe J4ot Air Brooder. 
 
 Cut six legs 2X2 and 21 inches long. Leave 
 7 inches at the upper end of these square and 
 taper the balance of the distance down to i inch 
 square at the lower end. Make the frame of 
 I inch by 6 inch lumber. Cut two pieces of 
 this frame 3 feet long and two pieces 2 feet 5^ 
 inches long. Put these together by nailing the 
 long pieces on the short ones. Put a leg in 
 each corner of this frame, having the upper 
 end of the leg flush with the upper edge of 
 the frame. Put a bottom in this frame mak- 
 ing the outside boards project i inch at one end. 
 This projection receives the back end of another 
 frame that stands in front and joining this one. 
 Bore a 3 inch hole in the frame on the side that 
 receives the lamp box, as shown in the cut. 
 The lower edge of the hole must be i^ inch 
 from the lower edge of the floor. In each side 
 piece of this frame bore two 3/g inch holes; each 
 hole ^2 inch from upper edo-e and 3 inches from 
 
30 INCUBATOR AND BROODER, 
 
 the outside corner of the frame. The lamp box 
 must be made with care. Cut two boards for 
 the sides 8 inches wide, 19 inches on one edge 
 and 18 inches on the other edore. Cut two 
 boards 8 inches square, one for lamp seat and 
 the other to go above the lamp and forms the 
 bottom of the earth box. Bore a three inch 
 hole in the center of the upper bottom to receive 
 the hot air pipe. Fasten the upper bottom I 
 with its lower edge 123^ inches above the low- 
 er edge of the box. Enclose the front of the 
 earth box with a board 4^ inches wide. Put a 
 back on the lamp box extending from the lower 
 edge 13 inches high. Nail cleats on the bottom 
 of box as slides for the lamp seat. Make a door 
 to fit on front reenforcing it with cleats to pre- 
 vent the heat from warping it. Bore a 3 inch 
 hole in the center of door and counter sink a 
 glass on outside. This is to be done so the 
 lamp can be seen from without. Bore five holes 
 in the back, five in the front in the door and 
 seven on each side of lamp box, close to the 
 lower edee of earth box. Make the holes 
 ^ inch and have them on a line. Cover these 
 holes on the inside with pieces of zinc 4 inches 
 wide and resting on J^ inch strips. Have one 
 of the longer edges fitted close up to the earth 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 31 
 
 box. This is done to let the gas and hot aii 
 escape and render the lamp safe to use out of 
 doors. Bore twelve holes each ^ inch in lamp 
 seat, three on each side and i inch from edg^e. 
 
 Place thimble in side of frame and put heating 
 pipe in place. Fasten lamp box to side of 
 brooder as shown in cut and nail firmly from 
 inside of heatinor box. Fasten the stool band to 
 Boor of heating box. Put the 2 foot square 
 shield with center over end of pipe, and its 
 sdges parallel to the sides of box. Fasten the 
 feet to the floor of the box. Cover this heatino 
 box with a floor letting it project 2^ inches on 
 each side, and 3 inches on the back end. Sup- 
 port the projecting edges with blocks which had 
 better be put in place first. The boards foi 
 this floor must be cut 3 feet 3 inches long. The 
 Boor does not project over the front end that 
 receives the other section of the brooder. 
 Around the three sides of this floor nail a board 
 4.5^ inches wide and ^ inch thick, leaving the 
 front open. 
 
 Make a frame for the front section on feeding 
 box the same size as the heating box frame 
 Put two legs in front corners and let the other 
 end rest on the projecting boards of the lowei 
 floor of heating box. Put a floor on this frame 
 
82 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 leaving the sides project the same as upper 
 floor of heating box. Cut two one inch boards 
 3 feet long with one end 12 inches wide and the 
 other 7 inch wide. Nail these boar^ls on the side 
 of this floor with straight edges flush with the 
 lower edore of floor. Put a board in the back 
 or higher end of this box, having the upper edge 
 flush with the 12 inch corners. This board 
 must be 7 inches wide, thus leaving a 4 inch 
 space as a pass way from brooder to feed box. 
 Put in a front board 7 inches wide, first cutting 
 a small door in the under edge 4 inches by 20 
 inches and hanging it on the upper ^dge of 
 opening. Add the necessary fixtures to control 
 it. Over this box and on the higher end nail 
 a board 12 inches wide and three feet 2 inches 
 long. To this board is hinged the sash lid as 
 shown in cut. Make this lid 2 feet i inch bv 
 3 feet 2 inches with a center piece to support 
 two panes of glass. 
 
 For the runway cut two pieces i inch by 2 
 inchs by 3j^ feet long. Cut the ends of these 
 pieces so they will fit against the feed box and 
 on the ground. Cut enough }4 inch boards 
 2 feet 7 inches long to cover these pieces cross- 
 ways. Nail boards on having the ends flush 
 with the outer edge. On the upper surface of 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 83 
 
 these boards naii ^/^ inch strips runnino- the sdme. 
 direction as the boards, and 2^ inches apart. 
 Bore two holes on each side to receive the 
 standards of the sideboards, lettino- the holes 
 pass through floor and through the 2 inch pieces. 
 Make side boards and put on as shown in cut. 
 Fasten the three sections together with 3 inch 
 screen door hooks. We have yet to make the 
 top for the brooder. The roof of this top is 
 made with an under floor over which is the tin 
 roof with a space between the two. First cut 
 two pieces for rafters 3 feet 2 inches long i j^, 
 inch at each end and 2 inches in center, and 
 one piece for the third rafter of )^ inch lumber 
 the same length, 4 ^^ inches at the ends and 4^ 
 inches at center. Cut two pieces of ^ inch 
 lumber 4^ inches wide and 3 feet 4^ inches 
 long for side pieces, nail these pieces w^ith an 
 end of each on the ends of the widest rafter. 
 Put one of the other rafters half way and the 
 third one at the other end with the upper edges 
 of rafters in line and flush with side boards. 
 The floor of 3^ inch lumber goes on the under 
 side of these rafters and to support the end at 
 the wide rafter it will be necessary to nail a strip 
 to that rafter, and then nail the floor to the strip. 
 There must be a short leg- in each corner n\ 
 
34 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 this floor for support. On the end that has the 
 wide rafter bore a ^ inch hole in each corner 4 
 inches from the end and 4 inches from each side. 
 In each of the other corners bore similar holes 4 
 inches ^rom sides and lyi inch from end. Nail a 
 block over each hole and bore holes through 
 these blocks to give a better support to the legs. 
 The legs must be 4 inches long with i 5^ inch 
 pin to fit the hole. Nail them in place. Fill 
 in above this floor with sawdust even with the 
 top of the rafters and cover with a tin roof 
 nailinor the same around the ed^es and across 
 the middle rafter with three penny fine nails. 
 Cover the under or smooth side of this bottom 
 with two thicknesses of cotton batting and this 
 again by one thickness of canton flannel with 
 the cotton side out. Nail these down with 4 oz 
 tacks. Bring edges out flush with outside edges 
 of legs and fit it neatly around the legs. Cut 
 enough canton flannel 6 inches wide to go once 
 around and 4 times the longway of the bottom. 
 Fold the cloth with the cotton surface out and 
 cut in from edges every 3 inches and within y^ 
 inch of the fold. Open the fold and tack the cloth 
 to place by putting the tacks through the crease. 
 The four pieces for the center should divide the 
 space equally. Tack every 3 inches opposite 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 35 
 
 the cut. After having thus finished this top set 
 it over the hot air chamber with the legs stand- 
 ing inside of the three sideboards, and is left 
 moveable so the brooder can be cleaned. 
 Above the end that fit against the feed box nail 
 a tin gutter to drain off the rain. 
 
 In case it is desirable to apply heat to the 
 feeding box an extra floor can be built under 
 it and filled in with sawdust, or a second lamp 
 and lamp box can be applied in the same man- 
 ner as the one used with the brooder box. 
 
 If desirable to use a hot water brooder in- 
 stead of a hot air brooder the foreooine describ- 
 ed machine can be easily converted into such 
 by making a water tank to fit in the hot air 
 chamber and fit a lamp box under the center. 
 The tank is to be the same length and width as 
 box and 3 inches deep, and the floor over it of 
 1/2 inch lumber. Have the funnel shaped inlet 
 and the faucet outlet conveniently placed in the 
 back end. The lamp box must be 10 inches 
 square on the inside and 15^ inches long. On 
 a line i^ inch from upper end bore 28 holes 
 3/^ inch size, with eight of them on each side 
 and six holes each on back and front. Cover 
 these holes on the inside with zinc 4 inches 
 wide tacked on l/^ inch strips. Have the ends 
 
36 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 of the zinc meet and their upper edges flush 
 with the upper end of the box. The lamp seat 
 must sit on cleats fastened to the lower edge 
 of box, and be movable. In this seat bore 12 
 holes I inch from the edcres and three of them 
 on each side. Put door on with hinges and 
 means of fastening. In the center of door cut 
 a 3 inch hole and countersink a glass on the 
 outside. Cut a place in center of floor the size 
 of lamp box so that when the box is put in place 
 the end will be flush with the upper surface of 
 tlie floor and the tank will rest on it. 
 
 ,^ 
 
INCUBATOR AND BlIOODER. 39 
 
 HoW to Make a GombiiAcd Ipvcviba- 
 tor and Brooder ]4o\jse. 
 
 Dig a basement north and south suitably lo- 
 cated 83^ by lo^^ feet and 4j^ feet deep. In 
 making the frame use 2x4 Inch lumber unless 
 otherwise mentioned. For the mud sills frame 
 four pieces, making the outside measures 8 feet 
 by 10 feet. Have the roof slant to the south. 
 Make the north corners 14 feet high and the 
 south corners 12 feet high. Set two studding 
 on the east and on the west sides dividing the 
 space equally. On the north and south sides 
 set two studdings in each, so the joists that are 
 to be nailed to them will be 3 feet apart In the 
 clear. Put in joists north and south using 
 2 inch by 6 Inch pieces. Gain in the ribbon 
 board on studding so the lower edge of the joist 
 will be 6)^ feet from the bottom of the base- 
 ment. Put In two headers at the north end of 
 the joist that are 3 feet apart, so as to form the 
 
40 INCUBATOE AND BEOODER. 
 
 walls of a hot air chamber 3 feet by 4 feet. 
 This is for the brooder. Close the under side 
 of this box with flooring. Bore a 3/g inch hole 
 in each corner as near the upper edge of the 
 joist as possible. This is done to draw the heat 
 to the upper floor, and to the corners of the 
 brooder. Bore a 3 inch hole in one of the joists 
 that forms the side of this box, with its center 2 
 feet from either end of the box and the lower 
 edae of the hole i ^ inch from the lower edee 
 of the floor. Make a lamp box for the brooder. 
 Cut two boards 8 inches by 8 inches, one for 
 under the lamp and the other for above it. 
 Bore a 3 inch hole in the center of the upper 
 one, for the heating pipe to come down through 
 to meet the lamp flue. Measure up 12 j4 inches 
 from the bott' m of the lamp box to nail the 
 upper bottom in. Nail the back on crossways. 
 1 his will be 1 2 l4 inches hi^h from lower end 
 of box. Put a cap on the front crossways 
 634 inches wide. Fasten the zinc thimble in 
 the 3 inch hole of brooder chamber for the 
 heating pipe to pass through. This is neces- 
 sary to make it fire proof. Put in heating pipe 
 and bring lamp box up to place and fasten by 
 nailing to the joist. Now fill the box above: 
 the lamp and around the pipe with earth, to! 
 
 ,. I 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 41 
 
 make the brooder fire proof. This box needs 
 no door. Nail cleats on lower end of box for 
 lamp shelf to slide on. Set a 2 foot square 
 shidd with its feet restinor on floor of hot air 
 chamber and its center over the mouth of the 
 pipe, and its edges parallel with the sides of the 
 chamber. The purpose of this shield is to 
 scatter the hot air towards the sides of the 
 chamber. Lay the floor of the room and at the 
 same time mark on the floor the exact location 
 of the hot air chamber. Make the brooder top 
 by first making a frame 3 feet by 4 feet of i inch 
 by 4 inch boards. Put on the inside of epxh 
 corner a leg 8 inches long letting the top come 
 flush with the upper edge of frame. Put a solid 
 bottom in this frame with flooring cut 4 feet long, 
 smooth side down. Cover the under or smooth 
 side of this bottom with two thicknesses of cotton 
 batting and this again by one thickness of canton 
 flannel with the cotton side out. Nail these down 
 with 4 oz. tacks. Bring edges out flush with 
 the outside edges of legs and fit it neatly around 
 legs. Cut enough canton flannel 6 inches wide 
 to go once around and four times the long way 
 of the bottom. Fold the cloth with the cotton 
 surface out and cut in from edges e-very 3 inches 
 and within a ^ inch of the fold. Open the fold 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODEE. 
 
 and tack the cloth to place by putting the tacks 
 through the crease. The four pieces for the 
 center should divide the space equally. Tack 
 every 3 inches opposite the cut. Put a No. 5 
 screw eye in the top of each corner post. In 
 each eye fasten a rope. Bring ropes together 
 and fasten, thereby forming a fast^^ning for a 
 rope to be used in raising and lowering the top. 
 Pass this rope through a small pully in the roof 
 directly over the center of air chamber, and 
 down to the side of the room. Secure the rope 
 to a small windlass or other convenient means 
 by which the brooder top may be raised or low- 
 ered. Fill the top or frame with sawdust. 
 Cover with light strips to keep the chickens 
 from scratchinor it out. Put the outside or 
 sheeting on beginning at the bottom. It is not 
 necessary to nail the lower boards, but instead 
 pack dirt behind as the boards are put in. As 
 soon as you can get at the boards to nail them 
 do so. Finish the outside up to a line with the 
 floor. The south side is to be filled with glass 
 beginning i foot above the floor line and extend- 
 ing- 1 feet hi^h and across the end of the build- 
 ing. Fit glass frames in the center of the east 
 and west sides one foot above floor line, 3 feet 
 by 4 feet. Finish sheeting the entire building 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 43 
 
 making a doorway on (;ne side into the base- 
 ment between the middle studdinor. Fit a door 
 
 o 
 
 neatly to this place. Make a door into the 
 upper room, on the same side as the lower 
 door, but near the south corner. Put on the 
 roof. On the south side and in the board 
 under the center of the glass frame cut a small 
 door 6 inches by 8 inches. This is to let the 
 chickens out and in. The chicken yard should 
 be 8 feet wide and at least 32 feet long. As a 
 fence for this yard, first fix a base board around 
 it I foot wide -^nd to the upper edge of this nail 
 on 2 foot laths i^ inch apart. 
 
 The incubator should sit in the basement on 
 the south side of the building, and will assist, 
 when in use, in keeping the building comfortable. 
 
 This buildine is laree enough to accommodate 
 the No. I incubator. If desirable to keep the 
 incubator in operation it will be best to set the 
 brooder to one side and build in another one, 
 separating them by a partition fence. Also have 
 a partition fence extend through the center of 
 the yard. By making the building two feet wid- 
 er it will accommodate two No. 2 incubators. 
 
 The foregoing description gives the essential 
 parts in the construction of this building. As to 
 how it shall be finished I leave with the builder. 
 
44 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 He may, as it pleases him, add window casings, 
 weatherboarding, ceiling, filling spaces with saw- 
 dust; painting, ventilating, preserving the under- 
 ground lumber as per recipe, some of which are 
 essential to comfort and others to the neatness 
 and good appearance. If made thoroughly com- 
 fortable you may rest assured it will do the work 
 of hatching and raisino- chickens in the coldest 
 weather if properly attended. The house is well 
 adapted to the business for which it is built, and 
 whoever undertakes the building- of it may feel 
 confident that it will do him good service, and 
 the investment will be returned to him in a short 
 time. 
 
 Those interested in the raising of chickens 
 will readily see the advantage of building such a 
 one as described in preference to any out-door 
 brooder. This building affords protection dur- 
 ing stormy weather. During bad days the chick- 
 ens want freedom, exercise and food, as well as 
 on good days, when they can be in the yard to 
 obtain them. In this house they can have all of 
 these and have none of the unpleasant features 
 of bad weather. At the season of the year when 
 this business is the most profitable, is the time 
 protection must be had from bad weather. The 
 out-door brooder of whatever manufacture does 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 45 
 
 not afford this and at the samt^ time o'ive the 
 chickens the desired room. It is these require- 
 ments that has developed the combined house 
 and brooder, and of which I take pride in pre- 
 senting to the readers of this Httle book. Any 
 one taking- the pains to investigate will find that 
 the upper half of this house will not cost any 
 more than the ordinary out door brooder and 
 in addition it affords a room 8 feet by lo feet 
 which is mxuch more desirable for the health 
 and comfort of the chickens, and the conven- 
 ience of handlino- them. 
 
 
46 
 
 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 47 
 
 HoW to Bvjild a GKicker\]4ovjse. 
 
 The following description is of a chicken 
 house twice the size of the one shown in the 
 cut. This building has been thoroughly tested 
 and I have never found an arrangement that 
 has equalled this for health, comfort and good 
 results in the quantity of eggs received. The 
 main building is 8 feet wide by i6 feet long, 
 with roof slanting to the north; and outside 
 walls and roof in good weather-proof condition. 
 Make the north wall and both ends of 2 inch by 
 6 inch studding, with north wall 5 feet high. 
 In the rest of the frame use 2 inch by 4 inch 
 studding. The south wall should be 7 feet 
 high. The ends and north side should be 
 boarded up inside. First put on an 8 inch 
 board and fill this space in with mortar and 
 rock. The rest of the space is to be filled with 
 sawdust. If built in this manner the rats can- 
 not get up into the sawdust from below. The 
 
48 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 under side of the rafters should be ceiled and 
 ^lled in the same manner. In putting on the 
 /oof leave places for ventilator pipes on the low- 
 er edge. A ventilator is required in the center 
 of every 8 feet, and located on the north side. 
 These ventilators should be made 4 inches 
 square in the clear, and should begin 10 inches 
 from the floor and extend 2 feet above the 
 highest point of the roof. Along the north side 
 oi this room arrange the perches by putting a 
 knee or bent every 5 feet, having them 20 inches 
 high and extending 4 feet from north side of 
 room. On these lay four pieces i by 4 inches 
 the entire length of room. This will accom- 
 modate 150 chickens, the capacity of this house. 
 It will be found convenient to put under this 
 perch a floor slanting to the south as shown in 
 the cut for convenience of cleaning. The object 
 of thus -arranging this perch is the convenience 
 for chickens getting on and off, and the protec- 
 tion from severely cold weather by keeping them 
 close together. Large and heavy chickens have 
 trouble getting on and oft high perches, and are 
 often injured in doing so. 
 
 The nests are arrancred on the south side 
 of this room. Leave 2 feet at one end for the 
 doorway. The bracket for supporting the nests 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 49 
 
 should be 2 feet high and project 20 inches from 
 the studdincr. Make the nest boxes for this build- 
 ing in two sections for the convenience of clean- 
 ing them. The bottom of the nest boxes should 
 be a board 1 2 inches wide, and the nests divided 
 by partition boards making the boxes 10 inches 
 by 12 inches. The partition board should be 18 
 inches high at the back and slanting to 10 inches 
 at the front. On the front of these nail a 4 inch 
 board, letting it rest on the brackets. Cover the 
 nests with a board which should have its upper 
 surface perfectly smooth to prevent the chickens 
 from resting on the boxes. An opening will be 
 left in the front of each box 7 inches by 10 inches 
 as an entrance. Nail a 6 inch board on the 
 brackets flush with their front ends as a runway. 
 Next, build a shed 10 feet wide, on the south 
 side, the entire length of this building and ad- 
 joining it, as shown in the cut. The south side 
 should be 5 feet and the rafters should join the 
 main building- 6 feet from the sill. Have the 
 door in one end near the door that enters the 
 main building. Board up both ends, leaving a 
 place in each for a window about 2 feet by 3 feet. 
 The south side should be boarded up 2 feet high 
 and the remaining distance be fitted the entire 
 length of building with movable glass frames. 
 
50 • INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 In summer these frames can be taken out and 
 the opening fitted with screens, thereby render- 
 ing the building- more comfortable. Ceil the roof 
 on the under side and fill in with saw-dust. Cov- 
 v/ith corrugated board roofing and batten the 
 joints. Protect this roof at once with a good 
 coat of paint. Put boards on the south side of 
 the partition wall, and have the lower one hinged 
 on its upper edge, in sections of 8 feet the entire 
 length of the building. Have a similar door on 
 a hne vvlth the nest boxes, 6 inches wide for the 
 convenience of o-atherinor the ecrcrs. In board- 
 
 <_> o o o 
 
 ing up the space above the rafters, put in a 
 small window 2 feet by lo inches opposite each 
 ventilator. On the south side of this room 
 there should be a dust bath box 3 feet by 4 feet 
 and 8 inches deep. Have one for every 8 feet 
 of the length of the building. The yards can 
 be any size suitable to the surroundings, and 
 the fences of whatever material desirable. 
 
 There are several objects obtained in a build- 
 inor constructed in this manner. The chickens 
 are best protected from inclement weather. No 
 matter how uncomfortable it may be out of 
 doors, the chickens are comfortaly housed in 
 this building and at the same time are avoiding 
 the disagreeable features of having to stay 
 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 51 
 
 during a bad day in the same room in which 
 they roost. Much comfort is gained both in 
 winter and in summer by having the rafters 
 ceiled and filled in with sawdust. While it is 
 essential to protect from inclement weather it is 
 also necessary to have good light and good 
 ventilation for the best health of the chickens. 
 More heat can be gained from the sun by hav- 
 ing the south wall stand out at the bottom so 
 the p-lass can receive the ravs of the sun more 
 directly. This will be an advantage in winter. 
 As to the manner in which the building shall 
 be finished is a matter of choice with the builder. 
 VVeatherboardino- roofincr, door casinors, window 
 casings, painting and foundation are features that 
 are subject to the liking and means of the builder. 
 
52 
 
 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 HO'T WATER TANK. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 53 
 
 Building Material Bills. 
 
 LUMBER FOR NO. 1 INCUBATOR. 
 
 8 pieces flooring 1 inch by 6 inches, 16 feet long. 
 
 1 piece popular board 1 inch by 10 inches, 12 feet long. 
 
 1 " " " 1 " " 16 " 16 " 
 
 ^ n u a 3^' u u ^2 " 16 " " 
 
 1 " 4 inch by 4 inch 12 feet long for legs. 
 
 LUMBER FOR NO. 1 BROODER. 
 
 2 boards 1 inch by 12Tnch 12 feet long, finished hard pine. 
 5 pieces flooring 1 inch by 6 inch 16 feet long. 
 4 lath. 1 piece 2 inch by 4 inch, 12 feet long. 
 
 LUMBER FOR INCUBATOR AND BROODER HOUSE. 
 
 10 pieces 2 inches by 4 inches, by 12 feet. 
 
 14 " 
 16 " 
 10 " 
 
 8 " 2 
 
 <( 
 
 " 4 
 
 2 " 2 
 
 a 
 
 " 4 
 
 2 " 2 
 
 a 
 
 " 4 
 
 1 piece 1 inch 
 
 " 4 
 
 1 " 1 
 
 n 
 
 u 4 
 
 1 " 1 
 
 u 
 
 " 6 
 
 4 pieces 2 
 
 (( 
 
 " 6 
 
 1 piece 2 
 
 ii 
 
 " 6 
 
 14 
 16 
 10 
 
 500 feet stock boards ; 100 feet roofing boards ; 110 feet floor- 
 ing 1 inch by 6 inches, 16 feet. Batting suflicient to cover 
 cracks of the roof. 
 
54 INCUBATOH AND BROODER. 
 
 LU.UBER FOR OHICKEN HOLjBE 8 BY 16 lEET WITH 
 SHED 10 FEET WIDE. 
 
 8 
 
 pieces 2 inches 
 
 by 4 inches 
 
 by 10 
 
 feet. 
 
 5 
 
 " 2 '' 
 
 u 4 .. 
 
 " 12 
 
 
 2 
 
 a 2 " 
 
 " 4 " 
 
 " 14 
 
 
 5 
 
 u 2 " 
 
 u 4 u 
 
 " 16 
 
 
 2 
 
 a 2 " 
 
 u 4 a 
 
 " 18 
 
 
 2 
 
 " 2 " 
 
 " 6 " 
 
 " 16 
 
 
 2 
 
 " 2 " 
 
 " 6 " 
 
 " 10 
 
 
 5 
 
 U -1 u 
 
 u 4 u 
 
 " 16 
 
 
 3 
 
 (( 1 u 
 
 u g u 
 
 " 18 
 
 
 2 
 
 1 " 
 
 " 12 " 
 
 " 14 
 
 
 1 
 
 piece 1 " 
 
 " 16 " 
 
 " 14 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 " 
 
 " 12 " 
 
 '• 16 
 
 
 1 
 
 " 2 " 
 
 u 4 u 
 
 •' 20 
 
 
 For roofi 
 
 ng. 10 feet boa 
 
 ■ds 160 feet ; 
 
 12 feet 
 
 boards 176 ■eet 
 
 or siding, 
 
 400 feet. 
 
 
 
 
 
 tinTor"': 
 
 NC UB ATOl 
 
 1 NO. ^ 
 
 I. 
 
 A tank 2 feet 6V2 inches wide by 4 feet 6W inches long by 
 b% inches deep'with ^^ inch flange on upper edge all around. 
 On the bottom inside and crossways have 3 ribs 1 inch high 
 dividing the space equally. These brace the bottom and 
 form supports for the pipes. Have the coil of pipes made as 
 shown in the cut. The center pipe is 2}4 inches and the 
 smaller ones Hi in hes. The large pipe outside is 4 inches 
 and is continuous with the sides of the tank. The 2}4 inch 
 pipe comes down through the center of the 4 inch pipe and 
 the space between the two is closed at the lower end. This 
 allows the water to come down to the lamp. In the '2}^ inch 
 pipe where it forms the "T" with the cross pipe of same size 
 at the farther end, put a piece of tin so the current of hot 
 air will be divided equally. The upper ends of elbows on 
 small pipes should be a % inch free opening. After the 
 pipes are properly fitted put on a top over all and solder it. 
 Leave an opening 1% inches near one corner for the inlet pipe. 
 This pipe is 4 inches long with X inch opening, with screw 
 top and a flange just belov. the top 1 inch wide and is fastened 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 55 
 
 in the wood top that goes v\er the tank. The large elbow is 
 7)2 inches from throat to tank and 2^0 inches from throat 
 to lower end. Fit the 2^ inch pipe so that it is in the center 
 of the 4 inch pipe and their lower ends even. The small el- 
 bows stand 7^2 inches out from tank. The faucet and con- 
 nection is at the lower dge and at one corner, and is 6^ 
 inches from tank to the cut-oflF. Have 6 pipes %inch open- 
 ing 21^ inches long with a flange \ inch on one end. Also 6 
 galvaniz'd iron 8 Inches by 12 inches by ^^ inch deep; also 
 6 strips of zinc 2 inches by 8 inches. 
 
 TIN FOR BROODER IN BROODER HOD ^E. 
 
 A square piece of sheet iron 2 feet each way, with ^4 inch 
 edge turned up. Plave a 4 inch support rivited on each cor- 
 ner with the end turned for a foot so that the sheet will stand 
 4 inches fi-om the floor. A 2% incii elbow pipe, one end 18 
 in:.hesfrom throat to end and the other 2;^ inches from throat 
 to end. A zinc thimble 3 inches in diameter and 2 inches 
 long to go in heating box for hot air pipes to go through. 
 Put a flange ^ inch wide on shwt end %_ inch from the edge 
 to keep dirt from falling on the lamp. On the long end of 
 pipe fit a stool band so it will support the pipe, keeping it ^i 
 inches from floor. 
 
 The same pai-ts are required in the out-door hot air brood- 
 er, wit a the addition of sufficient tin to cover the roof 3 feet 
 % inch wide and 2 feet 113^ inches long. Turn up ^ inch 
 that goes up against the feed box. A strip of tin 3 feet 1 inch 
 long and 3 inches wide broke in center lengthways to form 
 an eave trough and is tacked on the back end of feed box 
 over the line where the brooder joins it. 
 
 For the hot water brooder there will have to be in addition 
 to the above a tank 2>^ feet by 2}4 feet by 3 inches deep of 
 galvanized iron with t p soldered on. The inlet pipe must 
 be elbow shaped and lli inch size, 7^ inches from throat to 
 the tank, the other 1 inch, or long enough to receive a screw 
 top. The outlet at the lower edge of tank and 4 inches from 
 tank to the cut-oflf. Both to be situated in th/ same en'd c( 
 tank. This is for the No. 1 brooder. 
 
56 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 The lamp best suited for these incubators and brooders is 
 a plain glass fount with handle standing i inche? high from 
 bottom to top of brass collar. Use an alabastino plain top 
 ilue, and the best No. burner. 
 
 SUPPIJES AND PARTS. 
 
 In case you cannot get all the parts required conveniently 
 I will furnish them delivered at the depot here properly pack- 
 ed for shipping at the following prices: 
 
 Egg drawer $ .40 
 
 Rack for drawer 40 
 
 Egg drawer and rack 75 
 
 Outside door, panneled 75 
 
 Corner strips, per set of 4 40 
 
 Legs, per set of 4 1.0') 
 
 I^amp box and lamp seat 40 
 
 Nursery box 50 
 
 Tank for No. 1 10.00 
 
 Tank for No. 2 8.00 
 
 Tank for No. 3 5.50 
 
 Tank for No. 4 3.25 
 
 Lamps complete 50 
 
 Thermometer ( tested ) .75 
 
 SUPPLIES FOR BROODER. 
 
 Lamp box .$ .75 
 
 Shield 30 
 
 Heahing pinej complete 35 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 57 
 
 I 
 
 HoW to Gare for ar\ Incubator. 
 
 The lamp should be well cared for and kept 
 in good condition never allowing it to become 
 blackened or smoked. Before putting in the 
 eggs set the machine to working two or three 
 days, and bring the temperature up to the 
 required degree, and be sure you have every- 
 thing fixed to hold it at that point. Attend the 
 incubator regularly. Do not open the egg 
 drawer any oftener than is required. Do not 
 let the moisture pans go dry. When the chicks 
 are breaking through the shell do not open egg 
 drawer oftener than once in six hours. The 
 incubator should be In a quiet place free from 
 noises particularly those that jar and cause 
 things to vibrate, and free from draughts. A 
 basement or cellar that is free from dampness 
 is the preferable location. Wherever It sits 
 have it protected from any cold air while In 
 operation and particularly when the egg drawer 
 
58 TNOUBATOK AND BROODEE. 
 
 is open. Have the tank filled to 53/^ inches of 
 boiling water. No. i incubator takes about 25 
 gallons, No. 2 about 16 gallons, No, 3 about 10 
 gallons and No. 4 about 5 gallons. Set the 
 lamp to burning and see that you can keep the 
 temperature at 103 degrees. The first three or 
 four days a temperature of 102 degrees will do, 
 but then get it up to 103 degrees. The tem- 
 perature should not vary more than four degrees 
 either way. In cold weather if you have any 
 trouble in keeping the temperature up to the 
 required degree, draw off two or three gallons, 
 reheat it and put it back again. 
 
 From the i8th day until the chicks come off 
 keep the temperature at 104 degrees. Care 
 should be taken not to let it get over 104 degrees 
 for any length of time, as over heating causes 
 deformed chicks. Care should be taken not to 
 jar the eggs. 
 
 Place all the eggs on their sides lengthwise 
 between the bars of the moveable racks and at 
 the same time let the Ggg lie in the groove of 
 lower frame so that as the rack is moved it 
 causes the e^e to roll back and forth on its side. 
 Place the thermometer between the two front 
 rows of eggs so you can see the temperature 
 through the glass door. Place the bulb of the 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 59 
 
 thermometer half way down between the eggs, 
 so you get the right temperature at the center 
 of the eo-o-. The thermometer should He so 
 that the top end will be about two inches higher 
 than the bulb. 
 
 The turning of the eggs is done by the use 
 of a wire hook without opening the inside door, 
 place the hook through the hole in door and 
 and drawer into the eyelet in the turning rack; 
 the eggs are rolled back or forth by moving this 
 rack 23^ inches either way. Commence turn- 
 ing the second day, turn twice daily the first 
 five days, after the fifth day turn four times 
 daily up to the i6th day, after that twice until 
 the hatch is over! Divide the time for turning 
 as near equally as you can. 
 
 From the fifth day until the hatch is coming 
 off take the egg drawers out with their contents 
 once each day and let the eggs cool down to 80 
 degrees. Replace them and at the same time 
 turn the drawers end for end, and turn the eggs. 
 It is preferable to cool them in the evening. 
 While cooling leave the egg chambers open for 
 ventilation. 
 
 On the fifth day put in half of the moisture 
 pans ^ filled with warm water and J^ inch of 
 clean sand in the bottom of each pan. On the 
 
60 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 twelfth day put in the remaining pans filled in the 
 same manner. On the i6th day empty all the 
 pans of water and refill with fresh warm water. 
 Try the eggs the 14th day and see if they are 
 moist enough. You do this by taking some of 
 the eggs out of different parts of the machine, 
 and placing them in warm water about 100 de- 
 grees temperature. 15 or 20 eggs will be plenty 
 to try. If they sink they are too moist; if they 
 float high they are too dry; if they tioat show- 
 ing enough of the ecrs" out of the water which 
 can be covered by a twenty-five cent silver piece 
 they are just right. This will be the average 
 only, as some will show more and others less; less 
 rather than more. This is a reliable test in all 
 cases, as anyone can prove by trying. If the eggs 
 float as stated, and a poor hat.ch results, the trouble 
 must be looked for elsewhere. It will usually be 
 found with the temperature. If you find the eggs 
 too moist on the 14th day, take the moisture pans 
 out for two or three days, then put them back 
 again; and if you find the eggs too day on the 
 14th day, place a wet sponge in each end of the 
 Ggg drawer. If these sponges get dry in twen- 
 ty-four hours, saturate them again and replace. 
 If they do not lose any more of their moisture, 
 they are not needed any longer. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 61 
 
 In dry weather you need more moisture than 
 you do in wet weather; also in a dry room or dry 
 cellar you will need more moisture than in a 
 damp cellar. 
 
 When the chicks beg-in to come out keep the 
 incubator closed for six hours, then take the chicks 
 that are free from the shell and place in the dry- 
 ing- box on top of the incubator in flannel that 
 should be placed there a few days before, so as 
 to be warm. When the chicks are nicely dry, 
 put them in the brooder. Give them their first 
 feed when they are 24 hours old, and their drink 
 when 36 hours old. 
 
 Fill and trim the lamp every 12 hours. Keep 
 the burner clean. See that the lamp is all right 
 each niorht. 
 
 We certainly prefer the brooder to hens for 
 several reasons, the principal one being the ease 
 and facility with which a large number of chicks 
 can be attended to. Then brooder chicks have 
 no lice or mites about them, and none are killed, 
 as hens kill them with their clumsy feet. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 Some Causes for GKicks D\jir\g ir\ 
 tKe SKell ir\ tKe IrAcubator. 
 
 There are many causes why chicks die in the 
 shell, and some of them are due to the manage- 
 ment of the incubator and others are found in 
 other sources. I will note a few of them and if 
 the operator of an incubator has trouble of this 
 kind he will in all probability find the cause 
 
 among tnem. 
 
 Improper ventilation, too much moisture, ov- 
 er-heating, running with too low a temperature, 
 bad air in cellar or room in which the incubator 
 is sitting, too much dampness in the egg chamber; 
 too dry an air in the egg chamber, especially 
 from the i6th day till the hatch comes off, old 
 eo-o-s, over-fed breedincr stock; inbred stock, or 
 frojn any cause in which the ^gg has lost its vi- 
 tality or fertility. 
 
 Select good eggs, such as you would put un- 
 der a hen. The incubator cannot do more than 
 the hen, but can make a better success if prop- 
 erly attended. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 63 
 
 WKat Shall I Build? 
 
 The best thing that I can recommend mv read- 
 ers as an aid in the poultry business is the com- 
 bined incubator and brooder house. . The raising- 
 of chickens is of sufficient importance to give it 
 a separate building especially fitted and adapted 
 for that purpose. In this building you have the 
 incubator and brooder, both of which are essen- 
 tial, conveniently located to the advantage of 
 each other, and are free from the annoyances that 
 attend v/hen they are used separately, and tak- 
 ing up room that you need for something else. 
 The expense is light and the returns will soon 
 satisfy the investment. If any accident should 
 happen to your lamp endangering the safety of 
 things, it is separated where its damage will be 
 limited. The chickens can have all desired ad- 
 vantages under any conditions of weather, and 
 can best be protected from the piratical inclina- 
 tions of sixh animals that consider the tender 
 chicken a sweet morsel created for their especial 
 purpose, 
 
64 INCUBATOR AND BEOODER. 
 
 f rotect the Weak Oiacs. 
 
 Keep chicks of the same age separated from 
 others. This is essential to the successful rais- 
 ing of chickens. They need to be separated as 
 a matter of protection from the abuse inflicted by 
 older ones, also from the piratical Inclinations of 
 the older ones. The chicks must have their 
 qua.'tity of food, If they would thrive, and it is 
 essential they should enjoy their feed undisturbed 
 and unharmed. Very often chickens of the same 
 age are weakly and they should be protected in 
 the same manner. The weakly ones should have 
 special advantages In feeding, of which they can 
 not be deprived. In this way they will soon be- 
 come stronof and able to take c:ire of themselves 
 without special attention. In feeding corn chop 
 always scald it. When fed dry it will swell in 
 the crop and It thus often kills them. Never feed 
 on the ground but on a board, and see that the 
 board Is cleaned before feeding. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 65 
 
 I 
 
 r\breecliiAg. 
 
 There is nothing that will depreciate the health 
 and quality of poultry as that of allowing them to 
 inbreed. The successful stockraiser appreciates 
 this fact and zealously guards against it, spend- 
 ing money and using all the time and taking all 
 the trouble necessary to continually bring new 
 life blood in the herd. One of the most success- 
 ful ways of getting new blood into the flock is 
 to get, from a reliable breeder a setting of eggs 
 of your own choice. Another way is to get a 
 good healthy male bird and put with the hens. 
 Use whatever means at your command, but be 
 sure this is accomplished every year. The best 
 time of the year to bring new blood into the 
 flock is in the fall. At that time you get the 
 best of the flock before they are sold off and can 
 usually get them cheaper. There should be a 
 male bird with every dozen hens, and if it is de- 
 sired to keep the kind of breed distinct they 
 
66 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 should be kept in separate apartments. I nbreed- 
 ing impoverishes the flock, lays them more lia- 
 ble to disease, and subjects them to all of the 
 troubles that come to the poultry yard. 
 
 When new and strange birds are brought in 
 they had better be quarantined for a few days, 
 until you ascertain their freedom from disease or 
 vermin. It is alweys advisable to dust them with 
 insect powder. In case there are those that have 
 scaly legs, they must be kept apart until doctored, 
 as it is a trouble that communicates to others. 
 Rub each day with ointment made of equal parts 
 of kerosene oil and lard. 
 
i 
 
 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 67 
 
 J^ealtK ir\ Poultry. 
 
 When fowls are judiciously fed and made to 
 take exercise, their quarters kept clean and free 
 from vermin there will be but little chance for 
 disease to get in its work. It is a lack in these 
 things that bring on nearly all of the troubles 
 with poultry. Poultrymen should know the 
 causes of diseases in poultry, and it will be trace- 
 able in nearly every case to a neglect in the eat- 
 ables given them. When the combs and wattles 
 are of a bright red, it indicates a good condition 
 of health. On entering the hennery at night, if 
 no wheezing sounds can be heard you can rest as- 
 sured there are no roupy fowls in the flock. The 
 digestive organs indicate a good healthy condi- 
 tion when the droppings are hard and portions 
 of it white. When the edaes of the combs and 
 wattles are purplish red, and their movements 
 sluggish the keeper had better see to the feed or 
 look for vermin, or guard against cholera. It 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 dem^.nds attention, and with dilig-ence he will 
 find the cause. When fowls lie around indiffer- 
 ent to their surroundings and show a healthy con- 
 dition they are too fat and they are liable to die 
 of apoplexy, indigestion or liver complaint, and 
 should be compelled to shift for themselves in. 
 order that digestion may become more active. 
 
 ^ 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 Diseases and tKeir Treatmervt. 
 
 ROUP. 
 
 This disease in chickens corresponds to dis- 
 temper in horses. The symptoms in its first 
 stages are as follows: A wheezing sound and 
 running at the nostrils. As the disease advances 
 the head and eyes become swollen, the mouth 
 becomes cankered, and they refuse to eat. 
 Cases have been noted in which the eyes be- 
 came so swollen that they burst from their sock- 
 ets. This Is regarded as the most dreaded 
 disease among poultry and is the poutryman's 
 worst enemy. A bad cold is the forerunner of 
 roup. Improper ventilation and letting the 
 flock out too early in the morninor are two causes 
 of them taking cold. Close watchincr is neces- 
 sary to guard against this disease. A cold can 
 be cured without much trouble, but roup is dif- 
 ficult to handle and harder to get rid of. Be 
 constantly on your guard against it. 
 
70 INOrBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 As soon as you see the chickens are taking 
 cold, make a smoke in the poultry house In the 
 evening after they have gone to roost of equal 
 parts of pine tar and sulphur. Go in yourself 
 while smoking them, so you will not suffocate 
 them. They can stand as much of the smoke 
 as you can. If they do get the roup separate 
 the diseased ones. It is contagious and the 
 rest of the poultry must be protected. Treat 
 the diseased ones according to the receipe for 
 the cure of roup found in the back part of this 
 book. 
 
 CHOLERA. 
 
 After the farmer and poultryman more thor- 
 oughly understands the diseases of poultry they 
 will come to the conclusion that a majority of 
 the cases of reported cholera are not such, but 
 are troubles caused by lice and indigestion, and 
 is caused be eating such seeds as hard grains of 
 corn without sufficient grit to thoroughly mas- 
 ticate them. I have always made it a rule to 
 furnish plenty of gravel for my poultry of all 
 ages, or a mortar of lime and sand broken up 
 after drying. The chickens are fond of grits, 
 requiring surprising quantities at an early age, 
 4and thrive the better by having, It especially if 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 71 
 
 they are confined. Furnish plenty to them at 
 the start if you would have them grow fast. By 
 furnishing a good supply of grits for the poultry 
 yard it not only avoids cholera, but many other 
 diseases. Examine the gizzard of a healthy 
 fowl and it will be found to contain a good sup- 
 ply of gravel and other grits. There should be 
 in the gizzard more grit than food. Should 
 there be more food than grit found it would show 
 a congested and unhealthy condition of the giz- 
 zard and an inability for this organ to perform 
 its proper function. In a diseased condition 
 there will sometimes be found no grit whatever 
 but a stale mass of undivided food. This shows 
 inability of the organs to do their work, and such 
 results are for want of plenty of grit in the giz- 
 zard. As a result of these conditions there will 
 follow indigestion, diseased bowels and liver, and 
 unless soon relieved death will follow, and for 
 the want of knowledge as to the true facts we 
 through our ignorance pronounce it cholera. 
 Do not understand me to imply that the use of 
 grit will prevent these diseases, as they may be 
 produced from other causes. I am thoroughly 
 convinced that a free use of grit will keep the 
 fowls in such a healthy and vigorous condition 
 that disease will find no place in which to en- 
 
72 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 trench itselt. h,specially pre|.aieci grits are of 
 late abundantly found in the market and are 
 superior to gravel, and should find a place in 
 every poultry house by the side of oyster shells, 
 bones, etc., and such like. Fowls are very K)nd 
 of these prepared o-rits. 
 
 The symptoms of cholera are as follows: — 
 Loss of vigor, showing decided weakness, combs 
 turn purple, eyes are dim, stagger as they vvalk, 
 the droppings are thin and green. They rarely 
 live longer than thirty-six hours. 
 
 The remedy for this disease will be found 
 among the recipes in the latter part of this book. 
 
 APOPLEXY OR INDIGESTION. 
 
 This disease is caused from over-feedini:r and 
 a failure to get the required exercise. The 
 chickens lie around indifferent to the usual 
 sounds, yet look healthy, and, in fact, are in ex- 
 cellent condition. Indigestion and inactive liver 
 follow, and they die. The remedy is to feed in 
 limited quantities and force them to hunt and 
 scratch more. 
 
 . VERMIN AND SORE THROAT. 
 
 When poultry is infected with lice they are 
 restless and constantly picking in their featheis. 
 
TNCURATOR AND BROODER. 73 
 
 ill young poultry, especially aucKungs, tne throat 
 becomes swollen and swallowino- is difficult. 
 Remedy lor this will be found in recipe in latter 
 part of this book. 
 
74 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 Some Gavjses of j^oviltrvj Diseases. 
 
 Filthy houses produce lice. 
 
 Jumping from high roosts — bumble foot. 
 
 Draughts and dampness in hennery — roup. 
 
 Impure water, lice and inbreeding — cholera. 
 
 Damp quarters — diarrhea. 
 
 Musty food — canker. 
 
 Inbreeding — consumption. 
 
 Over-feeding — apoplexy. 
 
 Unwholesome diet — indicrestion. 
 • Close confinement — oebility. 
 
 Want of exercise— feather and Qgg eating. 
 
 Exposure to cold and dampness — rheumatism. 
 
 High feeding — leg weakness. 
 
 Birds with large combs must not be allowed 
 out of doors during severe weather, if it is in- 
 tended to have them lay well during winter. A 
 frozen comb is a notice to quit laying. Plaster- 
 ed walls in the hen house not only keep out cold 
 in winter but do not offer hiding places for ver- 
 min. A double purpose is thus gained. 
 
76 
 
 INCUBATOK AND BROODEK. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODETl. 77 
 
 j(itcKer\ GabiPvCt, 
 
 T'^e following description Is of my Kitchen 
 Cabinet, and will be found to possess the handi- 
 est arrangement for use In the kitchen that has 
 ever been gotten up. Its price, delivered free 
 on board cars at Arkansas City, Kansas, Is $io. 
 Should any one wish to make It themselves the 
 following description will be found sufficient to 
 enable them to do so. 
 
 The legs are 2^ by 2^ inches by 2 feet 5 
 inches long; the square part is gyi Inches. The 
 front 7/^ by 6 inches wide and 3 feet 36/8 inches 
 between shouk'ers. End rail J^^ by 6 Inches 
 by I foot 1 1 inches long, between shoulders. 
 Top 2 feet 7 Inches by 4 feet long. Back 20^ 
 inches high by 4 feet long. Bread board 185^ 
 by 24 inches. Flour bins 2 feet long by gyi 
 inches deep, rounded as shown in cut, by 19^ 
 inches wide, or front measure. Face of drawer 
 214 inches wide. The end strip for slide J^ by 
 3}4 inches, with groove }4 hy j^ inch. Center 
 strip for drawer slides ^ by 6}4 iin^ches wide„ 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 with i^ inch hard wood nailed and glued on bot- 
 tom edge. The large drawer is 185^ inches 
 wide by 2 feet long by 3^ inches deep. Top 
 of cabinet 8 inches by 4 feet. Cover table with 
 a zinc 2 ft. 7 inches wide by four 4 ft. long. The 
 edge of wood top is coped out so the zinc can 
 be neatly nailed. After drawers are made for 
 flour bms, cover the bottom with tin. Make 
 cabinet case with drawers as shown in the cut. 
 Also finish up back in same way. 
 
 I also make a good Ironing Board that is con- 
 venient, substantial and durable. The cut ex- 
 plains all that need be. It speaks for itself. 
 The price of this board is $2; or I will deliver, 
 free on board cars at Arkansas City, Kansas, 
 the brace stick and fixtures for $1. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 Recipes 
 
 AN EXCELLENT WHITEWASH. 
 
 This whitewash is an excellent one for the 
 poultry houses and fences, and will not rub off, 
 lasting almost as well as ordinary paint. 
 
 It is prepared in the following manner: Slack 
 ^" bushel of lime in boiling water, rain water is 
 preferred; strain this so as to remove all sedi- 
 ment; add 2 ft) sulphate of zinc; i Jb common salt; 
 ^ft) of whiting. Mix to the proper consistency 
 with skim milk and apply while hot. If white is 
 not desired, add coloring to suit. 
 
 Those who have tried this formula consider it 
 good. For use around the- poultry house many 
 prefer it to paint because it cleanses and purifies 
 the surroundings as well as adding to their ap- 
 pearance. This should be applied twice a year. 
 
80 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 A GOOD FEED TO MAKE HENS LAY IN WINTER. 
 
 A MORNING FEED FOR FIFTY HENS. 
 
 Two quarts corn chop, two quarts oat chop, 
 two quarts good wheat bran; take one pint of] 
 cracklings, put them in a pan and put enough i 
 water in to moisten thoroughly; let this come to 
 a boil, then pour it over the feed and stir till all 
 is moistened, and feed warm in a trough. Add 
 one quart of oil meal to this feed. An occasional 
 use of a little red or cayenne pepper is sometimes; 
 recommended. Be sure and put a good hand- 
 ful of salt in this feed every time. Never let 
 your chickens of any age have any water until 
 they have eaten their morning feed. Care should 
 be taken not to give the feed too hot. Thirty 
 minutes after they have eaten their morning feed 
 small grain of some kind should be thrown in the 
 straw to orive them exercise in the forenoon, this 
 litter should be changed twice a week, sweep the 
 floor every time you change the litter. 
 
 The noon feed should be wheat, millet or oats. 
 This should be scattered in straw or a litter of 
 some kind, thus giving them exercise in cold 
 weather. Their evening feed should be hard 
 parched corn, and feed it good ana warm. For 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 81 
 
 a change boil small potatoes and some beets, 
 turnips or carrots and cooked apples; this makes 
 a good feed for them occasionally. They should 
 have some greens every day in winter. It is a 
 good plan to sow some wheat or rye near the 
 poultry buildings for the hens to range on, or in 
 worst weather you can give them raw cabbage 
 or turnips. Gravel, lime and charcoal should 
 always be in their reach. Ground bone meal 
 and such grrits as the markets afford are oood. 
 Get some of them at least. 
 
 A GOOD TONIC TO KEEP YOUR HENS IN GOOD 
 HEALTH. 
 
 Sulphate of iron, i ft; sulphuric acid, 2 ounces; 
 water, I gallon; mix and dissolve. Dose: Shake 
 well and give one tablespoonful to one quart of 
 water. Give this twice a week in the drinking 
 water. I am not troubled with diseases of any 
 kind in my flock, as I use preventatives all the 
 time. Be sure and whitewash the poultry house 
 twice a year. Scatter slacked lime around in 
 every corner and all over the floor once a month, 
 and oil the perches once a month with a cheap 
 grade of coal oil. 
 
82 TNCURATOT^ AND BROODER 
 
 THE FIRST FEED FOR LITTLE CHICKS. 
 
 Break an eg-g and beat the white and yellow 
 together. Fry or bake it in a pan — not brown, 
 but just so it is done. Rub it fine with your 
 fingers and feed them with it the first few days: 
 every two hours; but the last feed in the evening; 
 should be oat meal or millet seed for the first: 
 two weeks. After the third day feed with bread I 
 made of two quarts of corn meal, one quart ofl 
 wheat or graham flour and middlings, one pint; 
 cf oat meal, half a teacup of ground fresh meat: 
 and 3 eggs and one teaspoonful of baking soda; 
 the whole mixed into a stiff dough and baked 
 two hours in an oven. This, when cold, is^ 
 crumbled and fed every three hours for the first: 
 two weeks. 
 
 Then take one quart of wheat bran, one quart 
 of corn chop, one pint middHngs, and one table- 
 spoonful of salt; stir all together and scald it. Be 
 careful not to get it too wet. Put a little oil 
 meal in this feed twice a week. 
 
 Be sure and keep plenty of fresh water before 
 the chicks all the time, and keep plenty of millet 
 seed and small wheat, charcoal and bone meal or 
 other grits before them all the time after the first 
 week. Give them some greens every day. Boil- 
 
TXCUBATOR AND BROODER. 83 
 
 ed millet seed makes a nice feed for big or little 
 chickens. 
 
 If you go according to this bill you will be all 
 right for getting chicks ready for the market in 
 eight or nine weeks. Be sure and keep plenty 
 of gravel or sand and lime before your chicks 
 from the beo^innino-. A chicken 8 weeks old 
 should weicrh from i lb to i ^jbs. 
 
 A SURK CURE FOR ROUP. 
 
 Willow charcoal, 3 drachms; powdered ginger, 
 4 drachms; capsicum, 3 drachms; powdered rhu- 
 barb, 3 drachms; powdered chalk, i V2 ounces; 
 gum camphor, i drachm; assafoetida, 4 drachms. 
 
 Take one pint of fine corn meal and dry thor- 
 oughly in the baker and mix half of this recipe 
 in the pint of meal. This is for 150 fowls. Let 
 the fowls get real hungry, put this in pans and 
 set in different parts of the house; as they eat it 
 they will inhale the odor. If they refuse to eat 
 it gather it all up, and after they are all on the 
 perches go in and shut the door and sow it 
 broadcast over the flock; this will cause them to 
 sneeze. With two or three applications of this 
 kind you will have no more roup. 
 
84 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 How TO PREVENT ROUP. — Always have your 
 poultry house well ventilated and never let any 
 draught draw over your flock. 
 
 GERMAN CHOLERA RECIPE. 
 
 Assafoedtida, i ounce; ginger, i tablespoonful; 
 gentian, i tablespoonful; black antimony, i ta- 
 blespoonful; red pepper, i tablespoonful; car- 
 bonate of iron I tablespoonful Mix all together 
 thoroughly. When required for use make intO) 
 pills with linseed oil. 
 
 Dose. — Give from one to two pills morning; 
 and evening, as the case may be, until the fowl 
 
 is cured 
 
 another cholera RECIPE. 
 
 A simple and effective cure is gained by con- 
 finino- the diseased fowls and feeding them cane 
 seed, and fresh water. 
 
 LICE. 
 
 To rid a hen house of lice, close up all venti' 
 lators and doors. Now take an old iron pot: 
 put some red hot coals in it and ^et it in the heij 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 85 
 
 house. Now take ^^ife of rosin, 2 ounces oi 
 carbolic acid, mix with ilb of sulphur and j^lb 
 of smoking tobacco, wrap these ingredients in a 
 paper, drop them in the pot on the red hot coals, 
 come out quickly and close the door, leave the 
 house closed until it is done smoking. Now 
 whitewash once a month. To three gallons of 
 whitew^ash use two quarts of salt and half box of 
 concentrated lye. Whitwash house, nests and 
 pei-ches and once a week wash the perches with 
 cheap coal oil and you will have no trouble with 
 lice. If you are troubled with mites, disolve ^ 
 box of Lewis lye in 2 gallons of hot soapsuds. 
 Now take a broom or white wash brush and 
 wash the poultry house thoroughly on the inside, 
 perches and all, with the lye water for two or 
 three mornings in succession, and where you 
 can not get with the brush pour some of the lye 
 water in. This preparation is death to any- 
 thing, be careful to keep it out of the reach of 
 children 
 
 Remember one thing, a hen cannot be a suc- 
 cessful eo-or machine so lonor as she has to raise 
 lice. Furthermore no treatment will cure a sick 
 fowl as long as lice or mites are allowed to sap 
 her vitality. If desirable to rid the fowls quick- 
 ly of lice and mites make a solution of 2 oz. car- 
 
86 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 bollc acid to a gallon of water. Take the bird 
 by the bill and feet and dip it by drawing it back- 
 wards through this solution but once. Keep its 
 eyes out of the liquid. 
 
 Tobacco stems hung in different parts of the 
 poultry house is a preventitive of lice and mites. 
 
 DEATH TO LICE. 
 
 Put J^ % of black sulphur and j4 ft of air 
 slacked lime in the dust box, this will keep them 
 off and give them a glossy appearance. 
 
 HOW TO BREAK UP A SETTING HEN. 
 
 The desire to incubate comes on as soon as 
 each series of eggs is kiyed. As soon as this de- 
 sire comes on her, she should be confined in 
 comfortable and roomy quarters and be furnish- 
 ed plenty of water and stimulating food. She 
 will in a short time go to laying again, and thus 
 profitably engage the time that would otherwise 
 be wasted, and herself made a burden to her 
 keeper. 
 
 RECIPE FOR A GOOD REFRESHING DRINK. 
 
 Take 4 lbs of brown sugar, put into 3 pints of 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 87 
 
 water and boil till the scum rises, then skim it 
 and set it off to cool. Dissolve ^ft of Tar- 
 taric acid in one pint of cold water. Take 2 
 tablespoonfuls of Jamaica ginger, tie in a thin 
 cloth and drop in a pint of boiling water and 
 boil ten minutes.' Take the whites of six fresh 
 eorcrs and beat to a fine frost. Dissolve a laree 
 teaspoonful of soda in a quart of cold water. 
 When all is cold, stir together and flavor with 3 
 teaspoonfuls of lemon essence, and put in a jug 
 or bottle and cork tight and it will not spoil. 
 When wishing to use, shake well and take 3 
 tablespoonfuls to i pint of ice water. 
 
 MOCK APPLE PIE. 
 
 2 cups of bread and cracker crumbs. 
 I cup of sugar. 
 
 I teaspoon level full of tartaric acid. 
 I teaspoonful of cinnamon. 
 
 3 teacups of water. 
 
 Mix all together and divide into three pies. 
 The above recipe will make a pie that can 
 scarcely be told from one made of green apples. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO MAKE A COOD BABY FOOD. 
 
 Take one pint of wheat flour and tie in a piece 
 of cheese cloth that has been washed and drop 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 in a pot of boiling water and boil one hour, then 
 take it out of the cloth and peal the outside off 
 and throw it away, now scrape or grate the bal- 
 ance and put in a glass jar for use. Keep the 
 lid on the jar. To prepare for use for a baby 
 under 3 months old, take a level teaspoonful of 
 the food and put into a half-pint of cold water 
 with a little pinch of salt and set it on the stove 
 and stir until it comes to a boil, now pour this in 
 a pint of fresh sweet milk with one teaspoonful 
 of granulated sugar, and set in boiling water and 
 boil 15 minutes, then put in a cold place and just 
 warm enouo^h at a time for each feed. This 
 amount will last about 12 hours, as it must be 
 made fresh every 12 hours. As the child gets 
 older you add more food and more milk. Feed 
 in a nursing bottle and rinse the bottle every 
 time it is used and clean it out with soda every 
 morning. Be sure and give the baby cold 
 water at any age, as they need it to be healthy., 
 
 THE BEST LINIMENT OUT FOR MAN AND BEAST. 
 
 Turpentine, ^ gallon; gum camphor, 4 oz.; 
 mix and let stand until dissolved, then add car- 
 bolic acid, 4 oz., and pure petroleum ^ gallon; 
 then mix all together and it is ready for use. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 89 
 
 Always shake well before using. The petrol- 
 eum is the best lubricatino- oil of West Viro^inia. 
 This liniment will cure the worst case of sweeny 
 on a horse by applying warm. 
 
 A SURE CURE FOR CABBACE WORMS. 
 
 Take a sprinkler and sprinkle the cabbage 
 with hot w^ater from 150 to 160 degrees. Be- 
 gin as soon as the worms make their appearance. 
 Two or three sprinklings during the season will 
 be sufficient. Water at this temperature will 
 not injure the cabbage but will destroy the 
 worms. Be sure and keep the water at that de- 
 gree of heat. Use a thermometer to test the 
 water with. 
 
 TO PRESERVE POSTS. 
 
 Take boiled linseed oil and stir in it pulverized 
 charcoal to the consistency of paint, put a coat 
 of this over the timber and there is not a man 
 that will live to see it rot. 
 
 FURNITURE POLISH. 
 
 I pint of alchohol, i oz. of shellac, ij^ oz. 
 copal, I oz. dragon's blood, mix and dissolve, 
 apply with sponge or soft brush. 
 
90 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 A GOOD CHEAP LINIMENT. 
 
 Boil equal parts ot linseed oil and turpentine. 
 
 IMPERIAL WASHING FLUID. 
 
 I can Lewis' concentrated lye, i oz. of salts of 
 tartar, 2 oz. of spirits of ammonia to a gallon of 
 rainwater. Dissolve one can of the lye, when 
 cold add salts of tartar and ammonia. Half a 
 teacup full of this fluid to a boiler full of clothes, 
 shaving the ordinary amount of soap. 
 
 A SURE CURE FOR FISTULA WITHOUT CUTTING 
 IT OUT. 
 
 Take i oz. of sweet oil, i oz. spirits of tur- 
 pentine, I oz. alcohol, I oz. Hartshorn, i oz. 
 sasafras oil, i oz. oil ganian, i oz. cedar oil, i 
 oz. spike. Mix these well, put in bottle and 
 keep well corked. Shake well before using. 
 
 Take hogs lard and grease around the part 
 effected by the fistula. Pour some of the lini- 
 ment on until the effected part is well saturated. 
 Take a piece of old carpet and hold on the dis- 
 eased part, and on this hold a hot smoothing 
 iron until the horse flinches. This healing is 
 done to blister the parts. In 24 hours after the 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 91 
 
 liniment and heat are applied, take a small blade 
 of an ordinary pocket knife and puncture the 
 blister by entering it at one side and let the 
 blade pass under the skin, but not deep into the 
 flesh. Now take as much calomel as will lie on 
 the large blade of the ordinary pocket knife, 
 roll it in some cotton and pass it into the cut 
 made in the blister. After putting the calomel 
 in crrease around the cut with lard about twice a 
 week. If properly cared for it will not leave a 
 a scar. This remedy is simple and effective. 
 It has been thoroughly tested; it has proved a 
 success. 
 
 A SURE CURE FOR SPLINT AND BONE SPAVIN. 
 
 Take i oz. sweet oil, i oz. spirits of turpen- 
 tine and 2 oz. creosote, mix and shake well be- 
 fore using. Use this twice a day as a liniment. 
 Use lard around the outside of the parts effect- 
 ed to protect the hair. 
 
 A SURE CURE FOR DIARRHEA IN YOUNG CALVES. 
 
 Tie 2 quarts of wheat flour in a thin sack and 
 drop in boiling water and boil one hour, then 
 peal the outside off and scrape ^ pint of the 
 flour into 2 quarts of sweet milk, then make it 
 
92 INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 
 
 warm enough for the calf to drink, give this 
 twice a day until the calf is well. In a very 
 bad case you can add 3^ teaspoonful of the es- 
 sence of jamacia ginger to each feed. 
 
 DIRECTIONS TO MAKE A GOOD POWDER FOR SORES 
 ON HORSE AND MAN 
 
 Get 5 cents worth of alum and put it on a 
 hot stove and leave it there until it quits boiling, 
 then take off and let cool, then pulverize to a 
 fine powder. To use it, wash the sores with cas- 
 tile soap and dust the powder on plentifully 
 while the sore is wet and it will heal the worst 
 sore shoulder in a few days. 
 
 HOW TO SET AN EVERGREEN TREE. 
 
 Dig your pits plenty large so you can spread 
 the roots out straight and set the tree about 2 
 inches deeper than it was, cover the bottom of 
 the pits with small rock, then 2 inches of rich 
 soil, a bucket of water, then the tree. Now cov- 
 the roots with rich soil and tamp it good; now 
 another bucket of water and another layer of 
 rock and a layer of earth. Rock and earth 
 till you get to the top, and you will never loose 
 a tree. 
 
INCUBATOR AND BROODER. 93 
 
 This book Is copyrighted under the United 
 States copyright laws. I consider I am giving 
 valuable information such as has not been pre- 
 sented by any one to the public and the only 
 protection I have is that given by the copy- 
 right laws. I trust that every one ordering this 
 book will use the information It contains to their 
 own advantage. Should vour neiorhbor see the 
 ground you have gained in its use let him send 
 and get one for himself You will confer a fov- 
 or by impressing upon him its value and there- 
 by do him good and at the same time oblige 
 the author. 
 
 Sent to any address postage paid on receipt 
 of $ 1 .00 
 
 Jacob Yost, 
 
 Arkansas City, Kansas. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Frontispiece Portrait of Author 
 
 Introductory 5 
 
 Building Material Bills 53 
 
 Chicken House 46 
 
 Chicken House — How to Build 47 
 
 Combined Incubator and Brooder House 38 
 
 Combined Incubator and Brooder House — How to Build, 89 
 
 Diseases and their Treatment 69 
 
 Health in Poultry 67 
 
 Hot Air Brooder 28 
 
 Hot Air Brooder— How to Make 29 
 
 Hot Water Tank 52 
 
 How to Care for an Incubator 57 
 
 Inbreeding 65 
 
 Incubator No. 1 18 
 
 Incubator No. 1 — How to Make 19 
 
 Ironing Board 78 
 
 Kitchen Cabinet 76 
 
 Kitchen Cabinet— How to Make 77 
 
 Protect the Weak Ones .64 
 
 Recipes. — Best Liniment out for Man and Beast 79 
 
 Cholera Cure, German 84 
 
 Cholera Cure 84 
 
 Death to Lice 86 
 
 Excellent Whitewash 79 
 
 First Feed for Little Chicks 82 
 
 Food for Laying Hens in Winter 80 
 
 Furniture Polish 89 
 
Recipes — Continued. 
 
 Good Cheap Liniment 90 
 
 Good Powder for Sores on Horse or Man 92 
 
 Good Refreshing Drink 86 
 
 How to Set an Evergreen Tree 92 
 
 Imperial Washing Fluid 90 
 
 Mock Apple Pie 87 
 
 Sure Cure for Caggage Worms 89 
 
 Sure Cure for Diarrhea in Young Calves 91 
 
 Sure Cure for Fistula without cutting 90 
 
 Sure Cure for Roup 83 
 
 Sure Cure for Splint and Bone Spavin 61 
 
 Tonic to Keep Hens in Good Health 81 
 
 To Break up a Setting Hen 86 
 
 To Preserve Posts 89 
 
 To Rid a Hen House of Lice 84 
 
 Some Causes for Chicks Dying in the Shell in the Incu- 
 bator 62 
 
 Some Causes of Poultry Diseases 74 
 
 The Hen as a Money-maker 7 
 
 What Shall I Build? 63 
 
 RD '111 
 
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