mm ^'M ifMil' i I H m: \r\nn >^/^;0^■^■: Ar^m W«h' n^AAr^AAi ^r\r\rsr\rsf^ S^mHf^r^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. (|]^p, :.f)k inp^rig]^ f n. Shelf ,.^aS..- UNITEB STATES OF AMERICA. ^\ / \w/ > mmm^ ^RA'^'A ^i^^nn ;:^/^.Ar^,A K¥^f • :\A A Aa.A A/^.^Uf J V ini \f\f\. fe'S"*A \A■AAnArt^vv^A/^ Oaa' ^S^i £S^i .'^^--hl -.' 'i |r^/f' =^i^>^ ^N L A - / \ 1/ \ \ :^^.-v '^4^r^m^^P^- ' 4 "fv THE MIDDLE STATES: HANDBOOK FOE TEATELLERS. A GUIDE TO TKE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF THE MIDDLE STATES, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS; WITH THE NORTHERN FRONTIER FROM NIAGARA FALLS TO MONTREAL ; ALSO, BALTIMORE, WASHINGTON, AND NORTHERN VIRGINIA. Witft Seven Maps and Fifteen JPlans, fc ^ j^wdssa. BOSTON: JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 1876. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1874, BY JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, in the Office of the Libraxian of Congress, at Washington. o'' I PEEFACE The chief object of the Handbook for the Middle States is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the great- est possible amount of pleasure and information while passing through the most populous and wealthy States of the American Union. The Middle States have hitherto been but casually treated in books which cover wider sections of country ; and special localities within their borders have been described with more or less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present vol- ume is the first which has been devoted to their treatment according to the most approved principles of the European works of similar purpose and character. The Handbook is de- signed to enable travellers to visit any or all of the notable places in the Middle States, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with their prices, descrip- tions of the various routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories of the old river and border towns, statements of the prmcipal scenic attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, biographical sketches in connection with the birthplaces of eminent men, and statistics of the chief industries of the included States. The half-forgotten but worthy and heroic records of the early Swedish, Dutch, French, Quaker, and Puritan colonies, and their wars and traditions, have re- ceived special attention in connection with the localities made famous in those remote days ; while numerous Indian legends will be found in various places. The military operations of the iv PREFACE. Wars of the Eevolution, of 1812, and of the Rebellion (so far as they affected this section of the RepuLlic) have been carefully studied and localized ; and the rise of the great inland cities has been traced and recorded. Tlie famous summer resorts — among the mountains and by the lakes and sea — with which the Middle States abound, and which are thronged by visitors from all parts of the country, have been described at lengtlf in these pages. The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the Euroj)ean Handljooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or veritied from the Editoi-'s persomd experience, after a long period of incessant travelling for this express purpose. The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the greatest care, and are based on the system of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to similar figures attached to lists of the chief public buildings, hotels, churches, and other notable objects. The hotels indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the most comfortable and elegant. Trust- worthy railroad time-tables are found in the " Travellers Official Guide " (with numerous maps) published monthly at Philadel- phia. Infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especially amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and hence the Editor will be grateful for any bo7ia fide correc- tions or suggestions with which travellers or residents may furnish him. He would also thankfully acknowledge his indebt- edness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance of publication. M. F. SWEETSER, Editor of Osgood's American Handbooks, 131 Franklin St., Boston. CONTENTS. PAOE NEW YORK xi PENNSYLVANIA xil NEW JERSEY xiv DELAWARE xv MARYLAND xv I. Monet and Travelling Expenses 1 II. Railroads and Steamboats. The Check Ststem .... 1 m. Excursions on Foot 2 IV. Hotels 3 V. Rocnd-Trip Excursions 4 VI, Climate and Dress 4 Vn. Miscellaneous Notes 4 THE MIDDLE STATES. route 1. New York City 5 Metropolitan Museum of Art 23 Manhattanville. Carmansville 26 Fifth Avenue 28 Central Park 32 The East River 35 Jersey City 38 2. Brooklyn 38 Prospect Park 42 Greenwood Cemetery 43 Coney Island • 44 3. Staten Island 45 The Fortifications of New York 46 4. The South Shore of Long Island 46 Rockaway Beach. Fire Island 47 5. Long Island. The North and East Shores 48 Port Jefferson. Islip 51 Montauk Point 53 Greenport. Shelter Island 54 6. Long Island. The Northwest Shore 66 vi CONTENTS route page 7. New York to Vermont. The Harlem Route 58 Lake Mahopac 59 Lebauoa Springs 61 8. The Hudson River. New York to Troy 62 The Palisades 63 Yonkers. Dobbs' Ferry 64 The Tappan Zee 65 Sunnsyyide. Tarrytown 66 Nyack. Sing-Sing 68 Haverstraw. Stony Point 69 The Dunderberg. Peekskill 70 West Point 72 Storm King. Cornwall. Newburgh 76 Poughkeeijsie. Vassar College 79 Rondout. Overlook Mountain 81 Hudson 83 Albany 85 Troy 88 9. The Catskill Mountains 90 Palenville 92 10. Albany to Montreal 93 Saratoga Springs 94 11. Lake George 103 12. Lake Champlain. Whitehall to Montreal 110 Fort Ticonderoga Ill Crown Point 114 Burlington 118 Ausable Chasm. Pittsburgh 118 13. Montreal 121 14. Lake Champlain to OgdensburQ 126 Malone to Paul Smith's .127 15. Ogdensburg to Ottawa 128 The Ottawa River 132 16. Saratoga to the Schroon and Raquette Lakes 133 Schroou Lake 134 17. Schroon Lake to the Southern Adirondacks 136 18. Plattsburgh to the Saranac Lakes 138 Martin's. Paul Smith's 139 19. Port Kent to the AVilmington Pass and Saranac Lakes . . . 140 20. Westport to the Saranac Lakes 141 Keene Valley 142 Ausable Ponds 143 Mount Marcy 144 21. The Saranac Lakes. Marten's to Cox's and Paul Smith's . . 146 22. The Saranac Lakes to the Tupper Lakes 147 23. The Saranac Lakes to Raquette Lake 149 24. XJtica to the St. Lawrence River. Trenton Falls and the John Brown Tract .152 CONTENl'S. vii ROUTE PAGK Trenton Falls I53 The John Brown Tract I55 Sackett's Harbor 158 25. Rome to Ogdensbcrg and Alexandria Bat 159 Watertown to Cape Vincent 160 26. New York to Utica, Rochester, and Niagara Falls .... 161 Fonda to Gloversville and Lake Pleasant 163 Utica I6fj Syracuse 163 Rochester 171 Rochester to Buflfe,lo 175 27. Niagara Falls 177 Queenston. St. Catharine's 185 28. Niagara Falls to Toronto and Montreal. Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River 187 The Thousand Islands 193 29. Syracuse to Rochester 200 Canandaigua to Buffalo and Niagara 203 30. Cayuga Lake and Ithaca 203 31. Seneca Lake and Watkins Glen 208 The Havana Glen 211 Seneca Lake 212 32. New York to Oswego 214 Montclair Division 214 Utica and Rome Divisions 216 33. New York to Elmira, Buffalo, and Nlagara Falls .... 219 Northern R. R. of New Jersey 219 Hackensack Branch 220 Rochester Division 229 Buffalo Division 232 Buffalo 233 Lake Shore R. R 236 34. New York to Ohio 237 35. New York to Scranton and Oswego 238 Morris and Essex Division 239 Delaware Water Gap , , 242 Richfield Springs 247 36. New York to Central Pennstlvanu and the West .... 249 37. New York to Philadelphu 254 38 Philadelphia 262 Post-Office. Independence Hall 269 Phila. Library 270 Penn. Hospital. Historical Society 271 Masonic Temple 276 Eastern Penitentiary. Girard College 277 Navy-Yard. Moyamensing 279 Fairmount Park 280 The \Yissahickon. Laurel Hill 284 viii CONTENTS. KOOTE PAGE Germantown. Chestnut Hill 285 Frankford Arsenal. Camden. Fort Mifflin 286 39. Philadelphia to New York . . 287 Freehold. Monmouth 288 40. New York to Long Branch and the Delaware Bat . . . .289 Long Branch 289 Navesink Highlands. Tuckerton 291 41. Philadelphia to Long Branch and New York 293 42. Philadelphia to Atlantic City 294 43. Philadelphia to Cape May 295 44. Philadelphia to the Delaware Water Gap, Scrauton, and Oswego 298 46. PHttADELPHIA TO CENTRAL NeW YORK 300 Bethlehem 301 Mauch Chunk 307 The Valley of Wyoming 312 Sayre to Lake Ontario 319 46. Philadelphu to Saratoga and Montreal 319 Cooperstown 323 Otsego Lake , . 325 Sharon Springs .326 47. Philadelphia to Reading and Williamsport 330 The SchuylkiU Coal-Fields 334 The Catawissa R. R 335 48. Reading to Columbia 336 49. Reading to Wilmington 337 60. New York and Philadelphu to Harrisbcrg, Pittsburgh, and the West 338 Lancaster 341 Harrisburg 342 Lewstown Division 346 Huntingdon to Bedford Springs 347 Bald Eagle Valley 348 HolHdaysburg, etc 349 The Allegheny Mountains 350 Pittsburgh 353 Pittsburgh to the West ' 357 51. Pittsburgh to Titusville and Buffalo. The Penn. Ott Regions . 357 52. Pittsburgh to Erie 361 53. Pittsburgh to Wheeling 363 54. Pittsburgh to Cumberland 364 55. Philadelphia to Erie 365 Lock Haven. Renovo 368 Erie 370 56. Philadelphu to Buffalo 371 57. Harrisburg to the Valley of Wyoming 372 58. Harrisburg to Carlisle akd Martinsburg. The Combeeland Valley 373 59. Philadelphia to Gettysburg 377 The Battle of Gettysburg 380 I CONTENTS. ix lOCTE PAGE 60. Baltimore to Central New York 382 Mianequa Springs. Watkins Glen. Keuka Lake 383 61. Philadelphia to Port Deposit 385 62. Philadelphia to Wilmington and Baltimore 386 63. Wilmington to Lewes and Crisfield. The State of Delaware . 390 Wilmington 390 I 64. Baltimore 394 ' City Hall. Battle Monument 397 Athenaeum. Masonic Temple. Cathedral 398 Washington Monument. Peabody Institute 399 Druid Hill Park 402 65. Baltimore to the West 406 The Battles of South Mountain and Antietam 409 The Shenandoah Valley 410 Berkeley Springs 411 Deer Park Hotel. Cheat River Valley 413 West Virginia 414 66. Baltimore to Washington 415 Annapolis 416 67. Baltimore to Washington 419 ( 68. New York to Washington 420 I 69. Washington 420 I The Capitol 426 * Smithsonian Institution 432 Post-Office. Patent-Office 436 Model-Rooms. Army Medical Museum ....... 437 Treasury. Executive Mansion 439 Lafayette Square. Corcoran Gallery of Art 440 i70. The Environs of Washington 444 Georgetown 446 Great Falls 447 Arlington . 448 Alexandria 449 Mount Vernon 450 [ndex to Localities 453 Index to Historical Allusions 466 Index to Biographical Allusions 467 Index to Quotations 467 Index to Railroads 468 Index to Steamboats 469 MAPS. / 1. Railroad Map of the Middle States : Front Pocket. 2. Topographical Map of the Adirondack Mountains and J Lakes : Back pocket. 3. Map of the Catskill Mountains : fronting page 90. 4. Map of the Hudson River : between pages 62 and 63. 6. Map of Long Island : between pages 48 and 49. 6. Map of the Environs op New York : between pages 38 and 39. ■ 7. Map of the Environs of Philadelphia: between pages 284 and 2S5. PLANS OF CITIES, etc. 1. Baltimore : between pages 394 and 395. 2. Brooklyn : between pages 38 and 39. 3. Buffalo : between pages 232 and 233. 4. Central Park : between pages 32 and 33. 5. Greenwood Cemetery : between pages 42 and 43. 6. MoNTRE-VL : between pages 120 and 121. 7. New York City : between pages 4 and 5 8. Niagara Falls : facing page 177. 9. Ottawa : between pages 128 and 129. 10. Philadelphia : between pages 262 and 263. 11. Pittsburgh : between pages 352 and 363. 12. Rochester : between pages 170 and 171. 13. Saratoga : between pages 94 and 95. 14. Toronto : between pages 186 and 187. 15. Washington : between pages 418 and 419. ABBREVIATIONS N. — North, northern, etc. S. — South, etc. E. — East, etc. W. — West, etc. M. — Mile, or miles. r. — right. 1. — left. ft. — foot, or feet. hr. — hour. min. — minute, or minutes. Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. THE MIDDLE STATES. New York. " The Empire State " is bounded on the N. by Lake Ontario and the Province of Ontario, on the E. by the States of Vermont, Massachusetts, and Connecticut, on the S. by the Atlantic Ocean and the States of New Jersey and Pennsylvania, and on the W. by Pennsylvania, Lake Erie, and the Niagara River. It covers 47,000 square miles, and is divided into 60 counties, with 930 towns and 22 cities; and the population is 4,382,759, with 823,484 voters (census of 1870), making it the most populous State of the Republic. 1,138,353 of the inhabitants are foreign-bom. The manufacturing interests are of great extent and variety, and in 1865 re- ported 24,530 establishments, employing 206,166 persons and $ 227,674,187 of capital, and producing annually $457,133,717 worth of goods. Tlie commerce of New York is larger tlian that of any other State, and is slowly recovering from the crushing blows inflicted by the Anglo-Rebel privateers, which reduced its tonnage of 921,983 in 1862 to 471,473 tons in 1865. New York City is the only important ocean-port, and is the commercial metropolis of the Western Hemisphere, The lake ports (Oswego, Buffalo, Geneva, etc.) have an enrolled tonnage of over 312,000 tons. There are 167 insurance companies, and savings-banks with de- posits amounting to nearly $ 200,000,000. The immense railroad systems connected with the N. Y. Central & Hudson River and the Erie com- panies cover most of the inhabited counties ^\dth their tracks, and the canals (which are under the care of the State) transport vast quantities of provisions and miscellaneous goods. The State Census of 1865 reported 60 religious sects, Avith 5,388 church edifices, valued (together with their land) at over $ 50,000,000, with a membership of 741,831, and an average attendance of 1,070,662. The Methodist Church greatly preponderates in numerical strength ; and the Presbyterians and Baptists come next. The Episcopal Church has great wealth and influence; and the Roman Catholics exercise a controlling power in the chief city of the State. Tlie military force consists of 24,285 citizens, enrolled in 8 divisions, consisting of 39 regiments, 10 battalions, 7 troops, and 11 batteries. The term of service is 7 years, during which the men are exempt from jury- xii PENNSYLVANIA. duty and receive pay for the 6 annual drills and the summer encampments. Behind this disciplined and mobilized force is the immense strength of the Reserve Militia, which is liable to be called into service in time of na- tional peril. During the Secession War (1861 - 65) the military strength of the State was displayed in a remarkable degree, and there were sent thence to the scene of war: 26 regiments of cavahy ; 17 regiments, 3 bat- talions, and 34 batteries of artillery; 4 regiments of engineers; and 194 regiments of infantry (mostly for three years' service). The present territory of New York State was discovered in 1609 by Henry Hudson (of the Dutch East India Company) on the Hudson River side; and by Samuel de Champlaiu, the French Governor of Canada, on the Lake Champlain side. Dutch trading-posts were established in 1613 and 1614, and the country was named the New Netherlands. Large immigrations of Hollanders soon occupied the Hudson River Valley, and in 1664 the country was conquered by a British fleet, and was named New York. Thenceforth for nearly a century the new province was engaged in almost constant warfare with the French in Canada, being aided by the powerful Indian confederacy of the Six Nations. But a short time after the Conquest of Canada New York entered the new American Re- public and became a powerful member of the Union. Much of the Revo- lutionary contest was carried on within its borders, and its chief city was occupied for 7 years by the royal forces. Since the beginning of the present century the growth and development of the State have been rapid and healthy, and it is now tlie foremost of the United States. Pennsylvania. " The Keystone State " is bounded on the N. by Lake Erie and the State of New York, on the E. by New York and New Jersey, on the S. by Delaware, Maryland, and West Virginia, and on the W. by West Vir- ginia and Ohio. It is crossed from N. E. to S. W. by the Allegheny Mts. in a belt 200 M. wide, which is occupied by long pai'allel ridges separated by narrow and picturesque valleys. The extensive districts which are included in the limestone valleys are among the most fertile in the Repub- lic, and are densely populated by agricultural populations (mostly of Germanic origin). The State derives its chief importance from the great mines of coal and iron which are scattered throughout the hill-country ; and the aggregate of its iron manufactures is of great value, and is con- stantly increasing. Between 1840 and 1870 (inclusive) over 200,000,000 tons of anthracite coal were mined here, besides immense quantities of bituminous coal in the Western counties. The petroleum trade is of more recent development, and between 1860 and 1870 (inclusive) there were produced 35,430,217 barrels of petroleum, a large portion of which was exported. Marble, copper, zinc, salt, and saltpetre are also found in large PENNSYLVANIA. xiii quantities. Varied and extensive manufactures are carried on at Phila- delphia, Pittsburgh, and other of the chief cities. Since the State has no ocean-front, its commerce is small in comi:)arison with that of New York or Massachusetts; but a lucrative transatlantic and coasting trade is centring in Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh commands a considerable share of the commerce of the Ohio River. The railroad system is at present composed of several first-class lines (controlled by the Penn. R. R.), and will be quite complete when the roads which are now in actual process of construction are finished. Pennsylvania has 3,521,791 inhabitants. It covers 44,317 square miles, and is divided into 65 counties, 1,471 towns, 417 boroughs, and 19 cities. It is claimed that the climate is milder than that of New York, except on the northern plateaus, whose mean temperature is nearly as low as that of Southern New England (which is on the same latitude). The census of 1860 reported in Pennsylvania 40 religious sects, with 6,337 churches valued at $22,581,479 (one church for every 543 inhabi- tants). The Methodists, as usual, are very far in the majority, next to whom come the Lutherans, Presbyterians, German Reformed, and Bap- tists. There are numerous quaint sects of Germanic origin, wliose names are seldom heard elsewhere in America, — Moravians, Dunkards, Amish, Mennonites, etc. The military organization of the State is less elaborate than that of some other of the Eastern States, but is capable of tremendous action in time. The first Northern troops who reached imperilled Washington in 1861 were Pennsylvanians ; and during the Secession War the State fur- nished to the national government 362,284 soldiers, exclusive of the powerful levies from the local militia for the repiilse of the rebel in- vasions. The shores of the Delaware Avere settled before 1640 by Swedes and Finns, who were subjugated in 1655 by the Dutch from New York. In 1664 the land was taken by the British, and in 1681 was granted by King Charles II. to William Penn, and tlie new domain was named Pennsyl- vania (the Penn Forest, Penn's Woods, or as the grantee preferred to understand, "The Mountain Forest," — from the Welsh word, Pen, a. mountain, and the Latin Sylva, a forest). Penn soon came to his new estates, and founded the city of Philadelphia. An honorable peace was concluded with the Indian tribes and the colony grew rapidly, receiving large accessions of English and Welsh Friends. After the year 1700 be- gan the great Germanic immigration which slowly pressed out or sub- merged the English Quaker settlements in the rural counties, which are still occupied by the conservative and unassimilated myriads of the " Pennsylvania Dutch." The State took a prominent part in the Revolu- tionary War (though the Quaker citizens were generally opposed to the xiv NEW JERSEY. imiependenoe of AnicriMV and scvoi'al desperate battles were fcnight on hex soil. The Whiskey Insurrection oconrrotl in the \TCstern co\inties in 1794. but was soon broken \\\\ Thenceforth for many ye^rs the citizens CAnied forwaixi the deveh->pnient of the vast nuneral ix?«ource,s of the State, and founded new citie* and prospeixjus lmro\ig]is. During the Secession War, Pennsylvania actM with promptiturders, at the olv<:cnre borough of Crettysburgh, was fought the tremendous three-da\-s battle whose issue insure*! the integinty of the Eepublic. New Jersey is lx>unde(i on the N. by tlie StAte of New York, on the E. by New York and the Atlantic Ocean, on the S. by the Delax^-aw l^\y. and on the W. by Pennsylvania. The S. and middle ix)rtions are level and sandy, and are Ivtixlered by narrow salt-water lagoons; but the N. and N. W. tx)r- tions are covered \kith low and lake-strewn spurs of the Alleghaivy Mts. Only a small ixirtion (relatix-e.ly) of the land is improve*!, as the extensive pine-plains toward the oce^n have an unprolilic soil. The chief natural }M'oduct« are fruit* and vegetables, which are readily dispose*! of in the great markets of New York and Philadelj^hia, The manufacturing in- tere^t* are important, the most unique being the extensive silk-fact<->ries at Paterson. The railroad system is well an-ange*! and ]>owerful, and is mostly controlle*! by the Penn. R. R. ; an*! there are two long canals, one of which is for the i^assage of large vessels Wtween the Delaware River and the lower l>ay of New York. Iron and zinc mines are profitably worked in the N. W. counties: and valuable beds of niai^l and glass-sand are found in the E. and S. Not\)i-ithstAnding its long ocea,n-fr*->nt, the commerce of the St^te is insigniticAut, being monopolized by the cities of New York and l^'hiladelphia. The eoclesiastic4il statistics of 1S60 showed 1,123 churchesi, valued at $ 7,762,705 (one church for every 59S persons). Tlie predominant sects are the Metho*!ists and I*resbyterians. A well-disciplined force of citizen- soldiery is kept under discipline and in marching order, and the State furnishe*! nearly 90,(X">0 men to tlie national armies during the Secession War. New Jei'sey has 906,096 inhabitants. It covers an area of S,820 square miles, and is divided into *21 counties. This region was settled by the Dutch ne^r Bergen in 1614, and by the Swedes on the Delaware Bay in 1627. After th.e British conquest of New York (1664), it was granted by the Duke of York txt Lor«i Berkeley and Sir George CaTteret, and was named in honor of the latter, who was a DELAWARE. XV native of the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel). It was flivlded into East and West Jersey, the latter of which was occnpied by William Penn. Puritan colonies from New England settlerl near the N. shores, and English Friends occnpied the S. W. During the Revolutionary War the State was the scene of three American victories, and of two winter- encampments of the Continental army. Delaware is bounded on the N. by the State of Pennsylvania ; on the E, by the Delaware River and Bay ; on the S. and W. by Maryland. It is the smallest State in the Union, except Rhode Island, and contains 2,002 square miles, which are divided into 3 counties and 27 hundreds (corre- sponding to towns). The population is 125,015 ; and in 1860 there were 220 churches, valued at §846,150 (one church to every 510 persons). There is a main trunk-line of railroad running from Wilmington S. across the State, with several branches to the E. and W. ; and the Ches- ax>eake & Delaware Canal gives passage for small vessels between the great bays on either side. The manufacturing interests are clustered about Wilmington ; and the majority of the people are engaged in agri- culture, producing large crops of "wheat, Indian com, Irish and sweet potatoes, berries and peaches, and valuable supx'lies of butter and honey, Tlie upper part of the State is diversified with rounded hills and fruitful valleys; but the lower counties form vast plains, which degenerate into cyx>ress-swamps along the S. boundary. Delaware was discovered by Henry Hudson in 1609, and was settled at an early day by the Swedes, according to the plans of King Gustavus Adolphus. After 4 Swedish governors had held the reins of power, the colony was conquered by the Dutch (1655), and was occupied by the British in 1664. The name of the State was given in honor of Thomas West, Lord De la Ware, sometime governor of Virginia, who died on shipboard in the Delaware Bay, June 7, 1618. The territory was granted to William Penn in 1682, but v/as separated from his domain in 1701. Under the guidance of Dickinson and Rodney, it bore a bravely patriotic part in the Revolutionary War, though part of its territory was overrun by the royal troops. Although, on account of its position as a slave- holding border State, Delaware was importuned by the Southern leaders to secede from the Union, it continued firmly loyal, and sent to the national armies 8 regiments, a cavalry battalion, and a battery. Maryland is one of the Southern States, and is bounded on the N. by Pennsylvania, on the E. by Delaware and the Atlantic Ocean, on the S. by Virginia, and on the W. by W. Virginia and Virginia. It covers 11,124 square mileri. Xvi MARYLAND. and is of varying natural characteristics. 8 coiinties are located on the level penmsula (called "the Eastern Shore") between tlie Chesapeake Bay and the ocean, and are indented by deep tidal estuaries, which abound in oysters and fish. The western counties are mountainous, and contain vast deposits of semi-bituminous coal, which is shipped from Cumberland on the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal. Maryland is one of the foremost States in a commercial point of view, most of its marine trade centring at Balti- more. Wheat, Indian corn, and tobacco are the chief agricultural prod- ucts, and cotton is raised on the Eastern Shore. • Maryland was originally named Terra Marian, or Mary's Land, in honor of Queen Henrietta Maria, and was settled along the Chesapeake in 1631-32 by alHuent Catliolic families. For many years the province was agitated by conflicts between the Puritans at Providence (Annapolis) and the Catholics. In 1619 the act of toleration was passed which made Maryland "the land of the sanctuary." The attacks of hostile Indians on the W. disciplined the people, so that the " Maryland Line" was one of the most valiant bodies of troops in the Continental army. The State wavered for a moment when the Secession War broke out (being a Southern and slave State), but finally rejected the ordinance of Secession, and remained true to the Union. Many regiments from ]\Iaryland en- tered the national armies, and others were enrolled among the Confederate forces. INTRODUCTION. I. Money and Travelling Expenses. Since the war for the Union (1861 - 65) gold and silver coin has dis- appeared from circulation, and been replaced by U. S. Treasury notes and National Bank bills for values upwards of one dollar, and by fractional currency, issued by the Treasury, of the values of 10, 15, 25, and 50 cts. Nickel and mixed coins, of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cts. value, abound. The paper currency is at a discount for gold of from 10 to 15 per ct. The currency of Canada is either coin or paper at a coin value. The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $4 to |5.00, with con- siderable reductions when a prolonged stay is made at one place. Tourists who travel slowly through the country, and stop at the less pretentious hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always safe), may easily limit their expenses to $25 or $30 per week. Those who frequent hotels of the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding, will find $45 to $50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches board can be secured at $ 10 or $ 15 per week ; while, in the quieter and less fashion- able villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be found in broad old farm-houses for $ 6 to $ 10 per week. II. Railroads and Steamboats. Railroad travelling in America is much more comfortable, yet more expensive and dangerous, than in the Old World. There is but one class of tickets, the average fares being about three cts. a mile. On each train is a smoking-car, easily accessible from the other cars, and fitted with tables for card-playing. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, as gamblers sometimes practise their arts here, in spite of the watchful- ness of the officers of the train. To nearly every through train on the grand routes is attached one or more palace cars, which are richly carpeted and curtained, and profusely furnished with sofas, easy-chairs, tables, and mirrors, and fronted with broad plate-glass windows. These cars being well balanced, and running on twelve wheels, glide over the rails with great ease. By night they are ingeniously changed into sleeping- rooms, with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the palace-cars are 2 INTRODUCTION. collectftd by men attached to them. The usual price of a night's lodging is $2. The fares by steamboat are somewhat lower than by rail, and (in case of a night passage) include a sleei»ing-berth in the lower saloon, but generally do not include meals. A state-room in the upper cabin costs extra, but insures better air and greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms (in the summer season) should be secured in advance at the company's office in New York, Philadelphia, or Baltimore. Great lines of stages still run among the mountains and in the remote rural districts. Persons travelling by this way, in pleasant weather, should try to get a seat on the outside. The Check System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des- tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, etc.) to the baggage-master, who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each piece with a leather thong, and gives to the traveller a check for each piece of baggage, similar in form and number to that appended to .such piece. The railroad now becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for the baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the dupli- cate check which is in the traveller's possession. Trunks may be thus despatched from New York or Philadelphia to Chicago, Montreal, Wash- ington, etc., without trouble ; and if their owner is delayed on the route, they arc stoi'ed safely at their destined station until he calls. On pres- entation of the check at the baggage-room of the station to which the baggage has been sent, it is given up to the owner or his hotel porter. The large hotels have coaches at the railroad stations, on the arrival of through trains; and their porters will take the duplicate checks, get the trunks, and carry them to the hotel. III. Excursions on Foot. It is remarkable that pedestrianisni has never been popular in this country. The ease and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its highly beneficial physical elfects, the leisure thus afforded in Avhich to study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible districts, — all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of summer recreation. To walk two hundred miles in a fortnight is an easy thing; and it is infinitely more refreshing for a man of sedentary habits than the same length of time spent in lying on the sands of some beach, or idling in a farm-house among the hills. " For a tour of two or three Aveeks, a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted .stockings, slippers, and the articles of the toilet, carried in a pouch slung over the shoulder, will generally be found a sufficient equipment, to which a light overcoat and a stout umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are es- INTRODUCTION. 3 sential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be avoided. A light pouch, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position may be shifted at pleasure." (Baedeker.) One or two books niiglit be added to this list; and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise, at a tridiug cost, to the to\vn which is the pedestrian's objective point. It would be well for inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten miles a day, and gradually increase to sixteen to eighteen miles, or six hours' walking. During the heats of summer the travelling should be done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a pedestrian tour is between late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the air bracing, — the season of the reaping of harvests, the ripening of fruits, and the splendor of the reddening forests. Among the most interesting routes for the pedestrian in the Middle States may be mentioned : The valley of the Hudson River, from New York to Hudson, or even to Albany ; the romantic Highland region, ex- tending S. W. from West Point by the Ramapo Valley and into the lake- strewn hills of New Jersey ; the Catskill Mts., whose picturesque cloves and stately peaks are much freqiiented by artists and trout-fishers; the W. shore of Lakes George and Champlain ; the upper Delaware Valley, from tlie Water Gap to Port Jervis. The road from Sag Harbor to Mon- tauk Point affords a short walk through a primitive region beyond rail- roads, and with naught to attract the attention but the neighboring sea. The lake region of Northern New York is traversed by small boats ex- clusively; but the Adirondack Mts. afford good walking-ground, Avith poor inns and rugged roads, but abounding in fine scenery. The Keene Valley, Elizabethtown, and Schroon Lake districts are among the best in this section, and parties of pedestrians would do Avell to engage local guides ($ 2 -3 a day). The Maryland Glades afford pleasant scenery, and are visited by sportsmen and trout-fishers. IV. Hot3ls. Tlie hotels of the United States will certaiidy bear comparison with those of any other country. The European plan has been adopted in many of them, while in many others it is used in coml)ination with the American plan, — $ 4 to $ .5 per day at the more fashionable houses, $ 2.50 to $ 4 per day at the comfortable hotels of the smaller cities, and $ 1.50 to 1 2.50 per day in the smaller houses in the rural districts, are the charges which cover all ordinary reipiirements. No costly array of sundries and extras is attached to the bill, and the practice of feeing the servants has never obtained to any great extent, nor has it been found necessary. 4 INTRODUCTION. V. Round-Trip Excursions. During the summer and early fall the railroad companies prepare lists of excursion-tickets at greatly reduced prices. Information and lists of these routes may be obtained from the central offices in New York and Philadelphia (either by personal application or by letter). VI. Climate and Dress. The climate of the Middle States is subject to sudden and severe changeg, from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are usually hotter and the winters colder than in England, and during the latter season great falls of snow are frequent. The summer sun is often fatal in its power, and long exposure to its vertical rays should be avoided. At the same time warm clothing should be kept at hand, and woollen, or at least heavy cotton, underclothing should be worn, in order to guard against the sudden changes which are so frequent. VII. Miscellaneous Notes. Passports are of no use in the United States in time of peace. The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean- ports is usually very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner. Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops, and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are unnecessary. There are no professional guides in the Middle States (except at Niagara Falls and among the Adirondack Mts. and lakes), but the people are prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the country, no class of self-recognized peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will often provoke a reply couched in all " the native rudeness of the Saxon tojigue." h^ m m m 1 at ssel ised afh ney hin Tew lia- iigs rth on- av- "ew the the I. 'he jral |>he ! st- ive ns ler ho ■es ho he to k- iS- ss NEW YORK. Durir of excu these r( Philadt The from h and th falls o and Ic time A cottoi chang Pa Th port! Ti and Ti Fall proi abr< of : oftt top MIDDLE-STATES HANDBOOK 1. New York City. Arrival from the Sea. — The American coast is generally first sighted at tlie line of the Nuvesinii Highlands, or ott" Fire Island Light ; and the vessel soon passes the 8andy Hooic fort and light-houses, ott' wliicli the outer bar is crossed and the Lower Bay is entered. The shores of Lou- and SUiten Islands ai>i>roach each otherontheN. ; Uaritan l}:iy is seen opening to the W.,ans of war, tall India- men, fleets of coasting vessels, the unwieldy ferry-boats and swift steam-tugs occupy the watei-s ; and the steamer moves up slowly to her pier on the North River. The examination of baggage by the custom-house olhcers is always con- ducted with a courtesy and lenity proportioned to the facilities which the trav- eller affords to the examining (")tliccrs. Foreign money is not current in New York, but may be exchanged at the otlices on Wall and Broad Sts., where are the banking-houses which casli circular notes and letters of credit. Arrival by tlic Sonnd Strainers. —The piers (27, li-i, 35, and 40) are all on the North or HikIsou River, between Murray and Watts Sts., W. of Broadway. The New Haven, Harlem, and Hudson River' Railroads terminate at the Grand Central Depot, whence horse-cars and sta-i-s depart for the central ami lower parts of the city. The Erie. ()swc;,'o Midlaml, iV-nnsylvania, Delaware, Lackawanna and West- ern, and N. J. Central Railroads terminate at Jersey City, and ferry-boats leave for N. Y. on the arrival of trains. Bagqage. — Agents of tlie express and transfer companies pass through the trains as tli'ey api)roach New York, exclaiming, "Checks for baggage." If the traveller wLshes his bagi,'age delivered at a hotel, residence, or another railroaensive suites of furnished rooms. On and near Madison Square are also the St. Jaiues, Broadway and 2l)th St. ; the (Coleman, Broadway and 27th St. ; the linely situated and aristoeratic Hotel Brunswiek, 5th Ave. ami 2Uth St. ; the Albemarle, Broadway and 24th St. ; the St, Germain, Broadway and 22d St. The *Rossmore is a new and stately house (Broadway und 42d St.); the * Buckingham is a superb family hotel, at 5th Ave. and 50th St. ; and the Gramercy-Park House has 3-400 boarders. • On and near Union Sciuare are the Union Place, Broadway and 14th St. ; the Union Square, 4tli Ave. and 15th St. ; the Westmoreland and the * Everett, 4th Ave. and 17th St. ; the * Clarendon (patronized by Kuglisli tourists), 4th Ave. and ISth St. ; the * Westminster, a lireq'roof building, living riace and IGth St., Eu- ropean plan; the Belvedere, Irving Place and ]5th St.; the ISjiingler. Farther down Broadway is the Irving House, corner of Pith St. ; the St. Denis, oppt)site Grace Church, freipiented by foreign tourists ; and several neat and resi)ect^iblo liotels on the European plan. The Brevoort, on 5th Ave. and Sth St., is much visited by Englisiunen ; the Glenham is at 5th Ave. and 2()th St. (European); the yjnelair is at 754 Broadway; and the Prescott, on Broadway and Spring St., is a line house. The Brandreth House, at Broadway ami Canal St., is on the Euro- pean plan, and is nuich visited by merchants. Earle's Hotel, corner of Canal and Centre Sts., charges $3 a day. The * Astor House is a famous old European-plan hotel, opposite the new Post- Oflice. Near the City Hall Park are French's, Lcggett's, Sweeney's, tiie Park, and the Cosmopolitan'. In Cortlandt St.. farther down town, are the Merchants', the National, and French's New Hotel, frecpienteil by businessmen. The United States is a large hotel near the Fulton Ferry ; and the Stevens House is on Broail- way, near the Battery. Rooms may be obtained at the European-jdan hotels at from $1 to $3 a day, with meals a la carte in the house or elsewhere. The Grand, Gilsey, and othei'S of the more elegant houses, charge from $2 a day upward for a bachelor's nH)m. For a tourist who is to make but a short visit to New York, these houses will be found more convenient than those on the Ameri- can plan. There are about 150 other ln)tels of all grades ; and in the uptown streets are many comfortable and comparatively inexueusive boarding-houses (88-15 a week). Restaurants. — *nclnionico's, corner 5th Ave. and 2Gth St., the best in America (willi branch cstablisliments down town, near the corner of Broadway and Cedar St., 2 S. William St., and on Broad near Wall St.); the *Cafe Bruns- wick, famous for evening dinners, 223 5th Ave. Parker's, on 13roadway near 34th St., is frci(ucntcd liy ladies ; also Bigot's, 14th St., near Broadway; Geyer's, 734 ami 73(j Broadway, is a large and favorite restaurant ; Solar!, corner of University Place and 11th St.. laepares elaborate late dinners, lauch (804 Broadway) and Bergman (corner Broadway and 27tli St.) keci> ladies' restaurants, which are much frequented; Maillard (G21 Broadway) is fnnious for bonbons and chocolate; Ar- naud (S15 Broadway) ivcejis line Frencli candies ; and PiirsscU's (910 Broadway) is a favorite lunch-saloon for the up-town ladies. Lucetti's (loS;i Broadway) and Rudolph's (102 and 411 Broadway) are attractive ; and Martinelli (4".) 3d Ave.) has the Italian cuisiitc. and is visited by many artists. At 39 Park Row, Leggett's Hotel, 14 Cortlandt St., and numerous other places down town, are large eating- houses for merchants and clerks. The cafes and restaurants attached to the large hotels on the European plan are generally well kept, and are much visited by ladies. The Astor House lias one of the best of these. Oysters may he found in every variety in the small saloons in Fulton JIarket (the "Saddle Rocks" of Dorlon's house are considered the best). New England dishes ai-e served at Payson's, on Cortlandt near Green- wich St. Reading Rooms. — In all the chief hotels (for giiests) ; Y. M. C. Association, comer 4th Ave. and 23d St., also at 85 Hudson St., 473 Grand St., and 285 Cleecker St. Astor Library, Lafayette Place, open 9i-5; City Libraiy, City NEW YOPvK CITY. Route 1. 7 Hall, open free to all, 10- 4 ; * Cooper Institute, corner 4th Ave. and 7t'h St., open from 8 A. M. to 10 p. m. ; Woman's Library, open 9-4 (§1.50 a year). Post-Office, corner of Cedar and Nassau Sts., open continuously except Sun- days, wheu it is open only between 9 and 11a. m. There are also 20 sub post-offices in the city, called " Stations," and alphabetically designated. Letters may be mailed in the lamp-post boxes (of which there ai-e 700), whence they are collected 9 times daily by the gray-uniformed letter-carriers. Baths are found in all the large hotels ; N. Y. Turkish Bath establishment, 13 Laight ftt., near St. John's Park; Turkish Baths also at 39-41 W. 2Gth St.; liussian vapor-baths at 25 E. 14th St. and on W. 24th St. ; Turkish, Sun, and Electric baths, corner Lexington Ave. and 25th St. Turko-Russian and other varieties of baths are given at the Gibson Building, 13th St. and Broadwaj', with luxurious and costly equipments and appointments. Consuls. — Great Britain, 17 Broadway; France, 4 Bowling Green ; Germnu Emi)ire, 2 Bowling Green ; Austria, 33 Broadway; Russia, 52 Exchange PI. ; Italy, 7 Broadway; Spain, 29 Broadway; Brazil, 13 Broadway. Theatres. — The * Academy of Music (E. 14th St., near Union Square), with a brilliant auditorium decorated in crimson and gold, — the home of the Italian opera in New York; * Wallack's (Broadway, near 13th St.), with a well-adapted stock comjiany, devoted i)rincipally to legitimate comedy ; * Booth's (23d St., near Gth Ave.), the most elegant theatre in America, chiefly used for standard trageily; the *Ch-and Opera House ((jorner of 8th Ave. and 23d St.), a superb hall, devottd to dramatic and spectacular representations. Daly's Fifth Avenue (2Sth St., near 5tli Ave.) and the Union Square (14th St., near Broadway) are small, but elegant antl I'ashionable theatres. Niblo's Garden (Broadway, near Prince St.) exhibits biilliant spectacular plays ; the Olympic (Broadway, neai- Houston St.) is a vaude- ville and novelties theatre; Wood's Mu.seum (Broadway and 30tli St. ) ; the new Lyceum Theatre. The theatre audiences at the Saturday matinees are mostly composed of ladies, who go in walking-dress and without escort. The Eagle Theatre is devoted to varieties and miscellaneous entertainments (at Broadway and 32d St.). The LyceuTn Theatre (6th Ave. and 14th St.) gives opera bdutre and French plays. The Germania is in Tammany Hall (E. 14th St.) and exhibits German dramas. The Park Theatre is on Broadwaj^ near 21st St. ; the Globe is on Broadway, near Astor Place; and the Tivoli is on 8th St.. between 2il and 3d Aves. The San Francisco Minstrels exhibit at Broadway and 29th St. Gilmore's concerts are to be held also in the Hippodrome (4th Ave. and 26th St.). Tlie Bowery and the Stadt Theatres are nearly opposite each other (on the Bow- cry, between Bayard and Canal Sts.), and produce German plays and operas. There are several respectable minor theatres on Broadway and near Union Square. The best negro minstrel entertainments are at the Twenty-Third St. Theatre, and at Tony I'astor's Opera House (585 Broadway). Amusements. — Classic music, oratorios, and concerts are given in Steinway Hall (l4tli St., near Union Square) and the new Chickering Hall (.5th Ave. and ISth St.). Fine military and waltz music is rendered by Gilmore's Band, at the armory of the 22d Regiment (14th St. and 6th Ave.). During the summer orchestral music of the highest order (conducted hitherto by Theodore Thomas) is given at the Central Park Garden (corner 7th Ave. and 59th St. ; admission, 50c.). The Atlantic Garden adjoins the Bowery Theatre, and is a great hall where, at evening, 2-3,000 Germans drink beer and smoke pipes with their families, and listen to well-executed vocal and orchestral music. There are numerous other beer-gardens, of lower grades, in the Bowery; and in the upper part of the city, near the rivers, are large concert-groves, where the Germans flractice is doue by the volunteer troops at the new Creedmoor Range, on Long Island (on the Central R. R. of L. I.). Art Collections. — * Metropolitan Museum, 14th St., near 5th Ave., open Jlondays free, otlier days 25c. ; *Acadeii]y of Design, 23d St. and 4th Ave., en- trance, 25c. ; Gallery of the N. Y. Historical Society, 2d Ave. and 11th St. There are usually many fine pictures in the sales-galleries of Gou])il, 5th Ave. and 22d St. ; Avery, 5th Ave., opposite Delmonico's (very elegant cabinets) ; Schaus, 749 Broadway ; Leavitt Art Rooms, 817 BroadAvay ; Somerville Art Gallery, 82 5th Ave.; and Snedicor, li(i 5th Ave. There are many artists' studios in the Y. M. C. A. buildina', 4th Ave. and 23d St. ; the Kurtz Art Building, on Madison Ave. (headquarters of " The Palette " Club) ; the University, Wasliington Scfuarc ; the Somerville Building, 5th Ave. and 14th St. ; and the .studio Building, 51 W, 10th St. There are several large and valuable private galleries, which are open only to persons who are properly accredited and introduced. The usual mode of securing an entrance to these galleries is by sending a letter (with card enclosed) to their owners. The best private galleries are those of John Taylor Johnston, A. T. Stewart, M. O. Roberts, John Hoey, James Lenox, Lucius Tuckerman, Robert L. Stewart, and John Wolfe (v/ho has Bougereau's masterpiece). Festivals. — New Year's Day is the greatest day of tlie New York calendar, and the ladies of the middle and upper classes then hold elaborate receptions. The church festivals, Christmas, the Carnival season, and others, are gi'owing in importance and universality of observance. Thanksgiving Day (late in November) is a Puritan exotic, and is marked here by fine dinners and family reunions. The great religioiis societies hold their annual reunions in May, and they are largely attended by Christians from all over the country. The 1st of May is a noisy, bus- tling, and ill-tempered day in New York, for it is the great moving-day, when many thousands change their domiciles. Evacuation Day (Nov. 25th^ commemorates the departure of the British army in 1783, and is usually celebrated by a parade. The national festivals, the Fourth of July and Washington's Birthday (Feb. 22d), are devoted to military displays, and the former is made noisy by artillery salutes and fireworks. Decoration Day (May 30th) is observed by the relatives and com- rades of the soldiers who fell in the' Secession War. The thousands of soldiers' NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 9 graves in the cemeteries around the city are visited and adorned with flowers amid impressive ceremonies. St. Patrick's Day and the Battle of the Boyue are com- memorated by great processions of Irishmen, sometimes terminating in wide- spread and fatal riots. Churches. — The Sunday services most visited by strangers are those of Trinity Church (Broadway, facing Wall St.), with its cathedral choral service and anthems ; Christ Church (5th Ave. and 3.3th St. ; richly ornamented), and St. Albans (Lexington Ave. and 47th St.), ritualistii; services; Ascension (5th Ave. and 10th St.); St. George (E. IGth St.), Dr. S. A. Tyng, rector. Tlie Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Patrick is at the corner of Mott and Prince Sts. ; and St. Steplien's (149 E. 2Sth St.) is famed for its impressive musical services. The Prcsbj-terian churches of Dr. John Hall (5th Ave. and 55th St.) and the Brick Church (5th Ave. and 37tli St.) are largely attended; also the Congregational Tabernacle (Broadway and .S4th St.); the Metliodist Church of St. Paul (4th Ave. and liid St.); the Reformed Dutch Collegiate Cliurch (Lafayette Place) ; the Uni- tarian Churches of All Souls (Dr. Bellows; 4th Ave. and 20th St. ) and t)f the Messiah (Park Ave. and 34th St.); the Universalist Church of the Divine Pater- nity (Dr. Chapin; 5th Ave. and 45th St.\ and Our Saviour (.57th, near Sth Ave.); the Swedenborgian (Rev. Chauncey Giles ; 114 E. :f5th St. i ; tlie Church of the Dis- ciples (Rev. G. H. Hepvvorth ; Madison Ave. and 45th St. ) ; the Moravian (Lexing- ton Ave. and 30th St. ) ; the Church of tlie Strangers (Dr. Deems ; Waverley Placei ; and the Russo-Greek Cliurch (2d Ave., near 50th St.). The Sabl)ath (Saturday) services of the Jewish Temple Emanuel are remarkable and impressive. The news- papers on Saturdays give lists of the time, location, and character of the principal services of the ensuing Sunday. In Brooklyn are the churches of Henry Ward Beecher (Orange St., near Hicksi ; De Witt Talmage (Schermerhorn St., near Ne- vins) ; St. Ann-on-the-Heights (Dr. Schenck ; Clinton St.); Holy Trinity (with fine music ; corner Clintou and Montague Sts.) ; Dr. Cuyler (Lafayette Ave. and Oxford) ; the Pilgrims (Dr. Storrs ; llemsen and Henry Sts.) ; Dr. Scudder (Han- cock St., near Fulton Ave.); Dr. Budiiigton (Clinton Ave. Congregational); Dr. Duryea's (Pres.; Classon Ave., near Monroe); Hanson-Place Baptist; Dr. Put- nam's (Unitarian ; Pierrepont St). Carriages. — For 1 passenger for a distance of 1 M. or less, S 1 ; 2 pas- sengers, ^1.50. In 1876 the Aldermen passed a shameful law (over the May- or's veto) allowing hackmen to charge $ 1 per mile for passengers taken from the depots or piers. No extra charge is allowed for 1 trunk, box, or valise ; children between 2 and 14 years of age pay half price. A tariff of fares is (or should be) hung in every carriage, but the drivers frequently attempt to extort undue sums from their passengers. In such cases, since the hack- men of New York are the most ruffianly of their class in the world, an instant appeal should be made to the first policeman who may be seen. Questions of disagreement as to distance, time, or price must be settled at the Mayor's of- fice (City Hall). The principal hotels have carriages in waiting, by which trav- ellers may be conveyed to various points at prices designated on cards that are displayed in the hotel offices (the rates are higher than those of the public carriages). Omnibuses (called "stages") (1) from Fulton Ferry, by Fulton St., Broadway, University Place, 13th St., and 5th Ave., to 42(1 St., returning over the same route ; (2) from South Ferry, by Broadway, 23d St., and Oth Ave., to 30th St., returning the same way ; (3) from South Ferry, by Broadway and 4th Aa'c., to 32d St. ; (4) from South Ferry, by Broadway and 14tli St. to Avenue A ; (5) from South Ferry, by Broadway, to the Erie Railway Ferry on 23d St. ; (G) from Wall St. Ferry, by AVall, Broadway, 23d, and Madison Ave., to 40th St. ; (7) from Jersey City Ferry (Cort- landt St.) by Broadway, Bleecker St., Bowery, and 2d St. to Houston St. Ferry. The omnibuses are cleaner and less crowded than the horse-cars, and are used by a better class of people. The fare (usually 10c.) is posted up inside. Horse-Cars. — The fare on most of the lines is 5c. (1) Astor House to Central Park, by Barclay, Church, ancj Greene Sts. and 7th Ave. ; (2) Astor House to Central Park, by Vescy, W. Broadway, Varick, and 6th Ave. ; (3) Astor House to Central Park, by Canal and Hudson Sts., and Sth Ave. ; (4) Astor House to Manhattanville, by Vesey, Church, W. Broadway, and Sth Ave. ; (5) Astor House to Hunter's Point Ferrv, by Park Row, Centre, Grand, Bowery, 4th Ave., 32d, and 34th Sts. ; (6) Astor House to 34th St. Ferry, by Chatham St., E. Broadway, 10 Routcl. NEW YORK CITY. Avenues B and A, and 1st Ave. ; (7) Astor House to 86th St., by Centre, Bow- ery 4th, and Madison Aves. ; (8) corner Broadway and Canal St. to 43d St., by Vai'ick St. and 6th Ave. ; (9) comer Broadway and Canal St. to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (10) corner Broadway and Ann St. through Chatham, E. Broadway, Avenues Band A ; (11) corner Broadway and Broome St. to Central Park by 7tli Ave. ; (12) corner Broad wav and Fulton to 54th St., by Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. ; (13) Peck Slip to Harlem (128th St.), by Oliver St., Bowery, and 2d Ave. ; (14) South Ferry to Central Park, by West St. and 10th Ave.; (15) South Ferry to Central Park, by the East River Ferries, 1st Ave., and 59th St.; (16) Fulton Ferry to 10th Ave., by Centre and Bleecker Sts. ; (17) Grand St. Ferry to Desbrosses St. Ferry, by Grand and Vestry Sts. ; (18) Grand St. Fen-y toCortlandt St. Ferry ; (19) Grand St. Ferry to 42d St. (Weehawken) Ferry ; (20) corner of Chambers and West Sts. to Grand Central Depot. Iha-Elevaicd Railway rmis from the J3attery to 59th St., on Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. Tlie track is suppuried by iron pillars ; the cars are luxurious, and are drawn by small locomotives ; and the stations are at Liberty, Franklin, Canal, Houston, 12th, 21st, 30th, 84th, 42d, and 59th Sts. Ferries. —To Astoria, from 92d St., and from Peck Slip; to Blackwell's Island, from foot of 26th St., E. R. (fare, 20c.). To Long Island City (Hunter's Point), from James Slip, half-hourly (fare, 6c.), and from foot of 34th St., every 7 minutes. To Brooklyn, from foot of 10th and of 23d St. to Greenpoint ; from Hous- ton St. to Grand St. (Williamsburg) ; from Grand St., N. Y., to Grand St. and S. 7th St. ; from Roosevelt St. to S. 7th St. ; from Jackson St. to Hudson St. (Navy- Yard) ; from Catharine St. to Main St. ; from Fulton St., N. Y., to Fulton St. (the most important of the ferries) ; from Wall St. to Montague St. ; from Whitehall St. to Atlantic Ave ; from Whitehall to Hamilton Ave. To Bay Ridge, from foot of Wall St., 8 - 10 times daily (fare, 15c.). To Staten Island, boats by either line hourly ; from Whitehall St. to Tomi)kinsville, Stapleton, and Vanderbilt's Land- ing (fare, 10c.) ; from Pier 19, N. R. (near Cortlandt St.) to New Brighton, Sailors' Snug Harbor, W. Brighton, Port Richmond, and Elm Park (fare, 12c.). To Jersey City, from Liberty St. to N. J. Central R. R., every 20 minutes ; from Cortlandt St. to Montgomery St. (and terminus of R. R. to Pliiladelphia and the Soutli) ; from Desbrosses St. to Montgomery St, ; from Chambers and from 23d Sts. to Long Dock or Pavonia (Erie R. R. terminus). To Hoboken, from foot of Barclay St. and foot of Christopher St. ; to Bull's Ferry and Fort Lee, from Pier 43 (fare, 15c.) ; from foot of 42d St. to Weehawken, every 40 minutes (fare, 12c.). There are 16 ferry lines in the E. River and 10 in the N. River, carrying 85,000,000 pas- sengers annually, and making a net profit of over §1,000,000. Bailroads. — On Long Island, the South Side R. R. to Islip and Patdiogue, by ferries from foot of Roosevelt and Grand Sts. to the station at Williamsburg (see Route 4) ; the Long Island R. R. to Sag Harbor and Greenport, by ferries from James Slip and 34th St. to the station at Hunter's Point (Route 5) ; the Flushing & North Side R. R. by ferry from James Slip to the station at Hunter's Point. To Boston by New Haven and Springlield, or by the Shore Line (see Os- good's Nexv England), from the Grand Central Depot, 4th Ave. and 42d St. ; to Chatham, Albany, and Rutland, by the Harlem R. R., from the Grand Central Depot ; to Albany and the N. and "W., by the N. Y. Central and Hudson River R. R., from the Grand Central Depot. To Oswego, by the Midland R. R., by ferries from Cortlandt and Desbrosses Sts. to the station in Jersey City ; to Buffalo and the W., by the Erie Railway froni foot of Chambers and of 23d Sts. to station in Jersey City ; to Ea.ston, by the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western R. R. (Morris & Essex), by ferries from Barclav and Christopher Sts. ; to Easton and the W. by the N. J. Central R. R., by ferry from the foot of Liberty St. ; to Phil- adelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, by the Penn. R. R., by ferries from the foot of Desbrosses and of Cortlandt Sts. ; to Long Branch and the N. J. coast by the N. J. Southern R. R., by steamers from Pier 8, N. R. to Sandy Hook ; to Newark, by ferry from the foot of Liberty St. To the Stateu Island R. R., by ferry from Whiteliall. Steamsliips. — Transatlantic lines — tor Queenstown and Liverpool, the Cu- nard (fares, $130, $100, $80, and $30) and White Star lines, 3 vessels weekly from Jersey City, cabin fare §80 gold, steerage §33 ; Inman Line, Pier 45, N. R., cabin $75 gold, steerage §28; Liverpool and Great Western, Pier 46, N. R., fares $80 and §30 ; National Line, Pier 47, N. R., fares §75, §65, and §28. For Glasgow, NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 11 Anchor Line, Pier 20, N. R., fares S 75, $65, and $28. For London, Piers 44 and 52, and 3, N. R. For Belfast and Glasgow, State Line, Pier 37, N. R. For Havre, Gen. Transatlantic Co.. Pier 50, N. R., fares $ 125 and §75. For Hamburg, Ham- burg-American Line, Hoboken, fares $ 120, $ 72, $ 30 ; Eagle Line, Hobokeu (to Plymouth, Cherbourg, and Hamburg). For Southampton and Bremen, N. Ger- man Lloyds, Hoboken, fares §120, $72, $40. For Stettin, Baltic Lloyds, Pier 13, N. R. , fares $ SO and $ 30 ; for Antwerp ; for the Mediterranean i^orts. West Indian lines — for Havana, Atlantic Mail Line, every Tliursday, from Pier 4, N. R., fare $70 (to Nassau, $50); for Havana and Vera Cruz, every ten days, from Pier 3, N. R., fare $65, to Vera Cruz, $100 gold ; for Bermuda, from Pier 9, E. R., iiire $30. For St. Thomas and Brazil, from Pier 33, N. R., the 23d of each month ; to St. Thomas $100, Para $150, Rio Janeiro $225. From Pier 42, N. R., the Pacific Steamship Company sends vessels the 15th and 30th of each month to Kingston, Jamaica (fares $75 and $35); to Aspinwall ($100 and $41} ; connecting for Pana- ma ($ 125 and $66) and San Francisco ($ 150 and $60). The American coast — for Key West and Galveston, weekly, from Pier 20, E. R. ; fares to Key West, cabin $40, steerage $25, to Galveston, $65 and $35. For New Orleans, Merchants' Line, Pier 12, N. R., every Saturday at 3 ; Cromwell Line, every Saturday, from Pier 9, E. R. ; Southern Line, Pier 21, E. R. ; fares on either line, cabin $50, steerage $ 25. For Fernandina and the Florida ports, from Pier 29, N. R. For Savannah, Atlantic Line, Thursdays, Pier 36, N. R. ; Black Star Line, Saturdays, Pier 13, N. R. ; Empire Line, Saturdays, Pier 8, N. R. ; Murray's Line, Thurs- days (3 p. M.), Pier 16, E. R. ; fares on either line, cabin $20, steerage $10. For Charleston, Pier 5, N. R., Tues., Thurs., and Sat. at 3 p. m., fares $20 and $12 ; for Norfolk ($10) and Richmond ($12), from Pier 37, N. R., Tues., Thurs., and Sat. ; for Newborn, tri-monthly, Pier 16, E. R. ; for Washington and Alexandria, semi-weekly. Pier 29, E. R. ; for Philadelphia, tri-weekly. Piers 33 and 34, E. R. ; for New Bedford, semi-weekly. Pier 13, E. R. ; for Boston (outside). Pier 14, N. R. ; for Portland, semi-weekly. Pier 38, E. R. Coastwise and river lines. — The Hudson — Day boats leave Pier 39, N. R., at 8.30 A. M., for Yonkers, Tarry town, AVest Point, Cornwall, Newburgh, Poughkeep- sie, Rhinebeck, Catskill, Hudson, Tivoli, Albany, and Troy (ftire, $2 ; meals ex- tra) ; the evening boats for Albany and Troy leave Piers 41, 43, and 44, N. R. at 6 P. M. (Saturdays excepted). The Mary Powell leaves Pier 39, N. R., at 3.30 p. M., for Cozzens', West Point, Cornwall, Newburgli, Milton, Poughkeepsie, and Rondout. Tlie Chrystenah leaves Pier 34, N. R. at 3.45 p. m., for Yonkers, Irv- ington, Tarrytown, Nyack, Grassy and Verplanck's Points. Steamers from Pier 34, N. R. at 4 p. M., to Cozzens', Cornwall, Newburgh, Poughkeepsie, and Esopus : and from Pier 43, N. R. at 4.30 p. m., to Cold Spring, Cornwall, Haverstraw, Newburgli, and New Hamburg. Other river boats leave Piers 34, 35, 49, and 51, N. R. daily. — The harbor and East River — to Bergen Pohit, Mari- ner's Harbor, and Elizabethport at 11 A. m. and 4.30 p. m., from Pier 14, N. R. (fare, 20c.); to Keyport, N. J., daily at 4 p. M.,from Pier 26, N. R. ; to Long Branch, 4 times daily (in summer) from Pier 8, N. R. ; to Perth Aniboy and landings on Staten Island Sound, daily at 3 p. m., from Pier 13, N. R. ; to New- ark from Pier 26, N. R., at 10.30 and 4.30 ; to Red Bank and the N. J. Highlands, daily, from Pier 35, N. R. ; to S. Amboy ; to Staten Island, hourly, from White- hall and Pier 19, N. R. ; to Bay Ridge from Wall St. Ferry ; to Coney Island from Pier 1, E. R., at 9, 12, and 3 o'clock ; to Astoria and Harlem, 16 trips daily from Peck Slip ; to Morrisania and Harlem, 9 trips daily, from Pier 22, E. R. Long Island Sotind — to Flushing, College Point, and Unionport, from Pier 22, E. R. : to Glen Cove, Glenwood, Great Neck. Whitestone, Sand's Point, and Rosljai, from Pier 24, E. R., at 4 p. m. ; to Glen Cove, Sands' Point, Whitestone, Sea Cliff, and Great Neck, from Pier 26, E. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Huntington, Cokl Spring, and Oyster Bay, from Pier 37, E. R., at 4 p. m. ; to Greenport, New Suf- folk, Sag Harbor, and Orient, from Pier 4, N. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Greenwich, Stam- ford, and Norwalk, every afternoon, from Pier 37, E. R. ; to Bridgeport, at 11.30 and 4 ; and from Pier 35, E. R., at noon and midnight (fare, $ 1) ; to New Haven, at 3.15 and 11, from Pier 37, E. R. (fare, $1.25) ; to Middletown and Hartford, from Pier 24, E. R., at 4 p. m. (fare, $1.50) ; to New London (and Boston) and Norwich, from Pier 40, N. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Stonington (and Boston), from Pier 33, N. R., at 5 p. m. ; to Newport, Fall River (and Boston), from Pier 28, N. R., at 5 p. M. (eaiiier in winter) ; to Providence, from Pier 27, N. R., at 5 p. m. 12 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. New York City, the commercial metropolis of the United States and the chief city of the Western Hemisphere, is situated on Manhattan Island, at the month of the Hudson River, in latitude 40^ 42' 43" N. and longitude 3° 1' 13" E. from AVashington. The island is 13| M. long and fiom h, M, to 2J M. wide (containing 22 square M.), and is bounded on the W. by the Hudson (or North) River, on the E. by the East River, and on tlie N. by the Harlem River and Spuyten Duyvil Creek, while its S. end looks out on the Bay of New York and is 17 M. from the open sea. The S, part of the island consists of alluvial deposits, but low rocky ridged are found along the centre and extend N. to the cliffs of Washington Heights. Tlie city extends in compact lines for 5-6 M. N. of the Bat- tery, and the district above the densely settled streets is studded with villas and parks, public and charitable buildings, and market-gardens. The upper part of the island, and the rural towns of Westchester County Avhich were recently annexed to New York, are comparatively thinly in- habited, by reason of their distance from the business part of the city. Schemes of viaduct raihvays and underground tunnels are now in various stages of development, and are designed to afford a means of rapid tran- sit up and down the island. The grand avenue called Broadway runs from the Battery to the Central Park, beyond which the broad and costly Boulevard leads to the upper end of the island. The city is laid out some- what irregularly from tlie Battery to Union S(piare (2| M.), but beyond that point straight parallel streets extend from river to river. These streets are numerically designated; are called East or West from the point where 5th Ave. intersects them, and are each 60 ft. wide (except 14th, 23d, 34th, 42d, and several farther N., which are 100 ft. wide) ; 20 of these blocks (as from 14th to 34th St.) make 1 M. Tlie numbered streets are crossed at right angles by 12 numbered avenues, 800 ft. apart and 100 ft. wide (except Madison and Lexington Aves., 75 ft. wide, and 4th Ave. above 34th St., 140 ft. wide). 3d Ave., on the E. side, and 8th Ave., on the W., are the principal highways above 14th St. ; and 5th, Park, Lex- ington, and Madison Aves., with their connecting cross-streets, are the most fashionable quarters for residences and churches. On the E. projec- tion of the island, beyond Tompkins Square, are avenues A, B, C, and D. The Bay of New York is one of the most picturesqiie in the world, and affords a safe ancliorage for the largest commercial fleets and the great vessels of the transatlantic steamship lines. About 20,000 vessels an- nually enter this port, and are acconmiodated at 75 piers on the North River, and 70 on the East River. 65 per cent of the imports and 50 per cent of the exports of the United States pass through New York. The inner harbor is entered by a deep strait called the Narrows, which is de- fended by the most powerfvd and imposing fortifications and armaments in the Western World. NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 13 Tlie site of New York was discovered by the Florentine mariner, Verrazzani, in the year 1524. On Sept. 4, ItiOy, the harbor was visited by Hendi-ick Hudson, commanding a vessel of the Dutch East India Company, who reported it as " a very good land to fall in with, and a pleasant land to see " ; and in memory of the scene of wassail and merriment that followed the meeting of the sailors and the natives, the Indians named the island Manhattan ("the place where they all got drunk "). Hudson then ascended the river since named in his honor to the site of Albany, and claimed the land by right of discovery, as an appanage of Holland. Trading expeditions soon passed from Holland to the new land, and in 1613 a fort was built on Manhattan Island. Later in that year, the colony was broken up by Argall of Virginia, with the same British fleet that had driven the Jesuits from Mt. Desert. The States-General of the United Netherlands now encouraged fresh emigrations to the contested domain ; and the country received the name of the New Netherland. In 1614 a Dutch colony came over and built houses and a fort (near the present Bowling Green), naming the place New Amsterdam, in honor of that city which had taken the foremost part in the enterprise. In 1626 arrived Peter Minuit, the lirst Dutch governor, who bought Manhattan Island of the Indians for $24. He was succeeded by Wouter Van Twiller (1633), William Kieft (163S), and Peter Stuy- vesant (1647). In 1653 a rampart was built along Wall St., to keei) out the Ind- ians ; and in 1658 the lirst wharves were built. In 1664, Peter Stuyvesant being Captain-General, and the place having about 1,800 inhabitants, King Charles II. of England granted all the land from the Connecticut to the Delaware Iliver to his brother James (Duke of York and Albany, and afterwards King James II. of England). An English fleet of 4 frigates and 450 soldiers captured New Amsterdam and Fort Orange (up tlie Hudson), and named them respectively New York and Albany, in honor of the royal duke in whose domain they lay. At the treaty of Dreda, this new conquest was conlirmed to England in exchange for Surinam. A Dutch fleet retook the place in 1673 : but after about a year, it was restored to the British crown. During the English Revolution Capt. Jacob Leisler seized the fort and assumed the government in the name of the Prince of Orange (King Wil- liam of England). He controlled the province and city during a period of bitter political struggles and foreign invasions , but refused "to acknowledge the author- ity of the new governor sent from England, and was arrested, tried, ami executed. In 1698 Trinity Church was founded ; in 1702 the first free gramnaar-school was opened ; in 1711 a slave-market was established in Wall St. ; and in 1725 the Kcw York Gazette was founded. A line of stages to Boston was started in 1732, the time of passage being 14 days. In 1741, during the excitement caused by disas- trous conflagrations and the spread of the yellow fever, the so-called Negro Plot was imagined. This causeless panic was more terrible in its results than the Sa- lem witchcraft delusion ; and within 6 months 154 negroes and 20 whites were imprisoned, and 13 negroes were burned at the stake, 20 were hung, and 78 were transported. The connnerce of the city increased rapidly, and its merchants made a bold and decided stand against the unjust aggressions of the British Par- liament. In 1765 a Colonial Congress convened here during the Stuni]) Act ex- citement, and effigies of the governor and the Devil were burned in public. In 1770, 3,000 citizens met to organize against tlie new taxation, and the landing of tea was forbidden by the people. The statues of King George III. and Lord Chatliam were destroyed, and the artillery of the forts was carried away into the Highlands. The American army, under Washington, occupied the city in 1776 ; but, after the adverse battles on Long Island and Harlem Heights, the British troops held the place for 7 years. Part of the city was burnt ; part of it was turned into barracks, hospitals, and prisons ; and thousands of American prison- ers were confined on floating hulks in tlie East River. Nov. 25th, 1783 (whose annivei'sary is celebrated yearly as Evacuation Day), the British troops embai'ked, and Washington and the Governor of the State entered the city in triumph. In 1785 the first Federal Congress met here ; and here, in 1789, Washington was inaugurated President. Commerce was paralyzed by the Embargo of 1810, and grass grew on the streets and wharves. The first steamboat was put on the Hud- son in 1807, and the Erie Canal was completed in 1825, amid splendid celebrations throughout the State. Gas was introduced in 1825. In 1832 the Asiatic cholera carried off 4,360 persons. In 1835 a conflagration destroyed $18,000,000 worth of property, and the financial crisis of 1837 ruined thousands of mei'chants. Though 14 Route 1, NEW YORK CITY. frequently scourged witli fire and pestilence, the growth of the city was not re- tarded. The Crotou Aqueduct was completed in l^-^i, at a cost of §9,000,000, since which over §30,000,000 have been spent on it, a)id §22,000,000 have been received for water taxes. A great fire in IS-ia caused a loss of §5-7,000,000 ; and in 1849 and 1S54 came the disastrous visitations of the cholera. New York has grown rapidly since the introduction of the railroad system, and the most remote parts of the States are reached by its lines of track. Scores of ocean-steamers and fleets of packet-ships bring iu the products of all continents, and bear away full cargoes of Western gi-ain or the manufactures of the Middle and New England States. At the outbreak of the Secession War, in 1801, the city was electrified with excitement ; barracks were built on its squares ; the New England regiments l)assed through its streets on the way South ; and i)owerful fleets were despatch^ thence to land national armies before the rebellious cities of the coast. 110,382 men of Nev,r York City entered tlie armies of the Republic. During the Rebel invasion of Pennsylvania, when many of the N. Y. militia were at the front, great mobs of degrailed foreigners and the outlaw classes arose in insurrection and occupied the city, driving Itack the i)olice, sacldng many stores and houses, and killing every negro or U. S. soldier whom they met (under pi-etence of resisting the drafting for the army). The reign of terror continued for several days, until the local regi- ments and a body of veteran ti'oops were hurried back into the city, and by an unsparing use of bayonet and grape-shot, drove the marauders into their dens. The population of New York City has increased from 1,000 in 1656 to 4,937 in 1698, 10,604 in 1737, 21,862 in 1771, 00,489 in 1800, 123.700 in 1820, 312,710 in 1840, 515,847 in 1850, 812,869 in 1860, and 1,021.000 in 1875 ; of whom 201,999 were Irish, 151,222 Germans, 24,432 English, 13,073 negroes. 8,267 French, 7,554 Scotch, 4,338 Canadians, 2,790 Italians, 2,392 Poles, 2,109 Swiss, 1,569 Swedes, 1,293 Cu- bans, 1,237 Dutch, 1,139 Russians, 682 Danes, 587 Welsli, 464 Spaniards, 373 Nor- wegians, 328 Belgians, 213 S. Americans, 115 Chinese, 64 Mexicans, and 38 Turks. There are but two larger cities (London and Paris) in Christendom ; and if the poi)ulati(ni of the adjacent nnuiicipalities of Brooklyn and Jersey City are added to that of New York, it is the sixth city in the world. It is estimated that there are 1,500,000 persons in New York at noon on every .secidar day. Tlie assessed valuation of the real and personal estate of the city in 1875 was §1,100,943,690; and its taxes (exclusive of national) for 1870 amounted to i^ 25.303,860. In 1870 there arrived at this port 14,587 vessels from the American coast, and 4,088 vessels from foreign ports. Of the latter (and of all classes larger than schooners) 1,621 were British, 1,245 American, 313 German, 98 Norwegian, 86 Italian, 36 French, 30 Dutch, 30 Danish, 22 Swedish, 18 each of Spanish and Portuguese, 16 Austrian, and 8 Russian. In the same year there were received here, 1,000,000 tons of ice, 2,831,036 head of live stock, 1,592,403 boxes of cheese, 24,000 tons of wool, 75,000 tons of coffee, 19,000 tons of tea, 256,000 tons of sugar, 22,000,000 gallons of molasses, and § 109,498,523 worth of dry-goods ; and there were exported 87,000,000 gallons of petroleum, 328,000 bales of cotton, and vast amounts of breadstufis and provisions. In 1873 the exports were §348,905,060; the imports, §398,505,830 (on which were paid duties amounting to §115,510,935). In 1870 there were 54 national banks, Avith a capital of §74,435,000 and resources of §375,152,000 ; 25 State banks, with a capital of §13,940,850 ; and 32 savings-banks, with resources aiuimnting to §113,804,007. In 1870 there were 370 cluuches, valued at §43,000- 000, and accommodating 308,500 persons. Of these, 72 were Episcopal, 52 Pres- byteiian, 50 Methodist, 41 Catholic, 31 Baptist, 21 Reformed Dutch, 27 Hebrew, and 18 Lutheran. In 1875 there Avere in the public schools and colleges 3,305 teachers, and 277,310 pupils (in actual attendance). Over 10,000,000 strangers visit New York yearly. In 1870 there were 1,250 fatal accidents and 112 sui- cides. In the same year there were 0,848 drinking-saloons in N. Y., at which §38-50,000,000 were spent. The tire-brigade has 37 steam-engines, 15 ladder- trucks, and about 000 men. There are 400 M. of streets, 340 M. of Croton water- pipes, 275 M. of sewers, 19,000 gas-lights, 1,000 horse-cars (on 125 M. of street tracks), 207 omnibuses, 40,000 horses, 2,400 policemen, and 13,000 disciplined militia. f NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 15 The Battery is a park at the S. end of Manhattan Island, adorned with large trees and verdant lawns, and fronted by a sea-Avall of massive ma- sonry. From the esplanade are obtained admirable * views of the Bay, with the Hudson River debouching on the r. and the East River on the 1. The populous heights of Brooklyn are to the E., with Governor's Island nearer at hand, on which the high walls of Castle William are seen, Avith the embankments of the less imposing but more powerful Fort Columbus, a star-fort mounting 120 heavy cannon. Farther down the harbor are Ellis and Bedloe's Islands, on which are Forts Gibson and Wood. Tlie curious round structure on the Battery was built for a fortress ("Castle Clinton") in 1807, was ceded to the city in 1823, and was the scene of the civic receptions of the Marquis de Lafayette, Gen. Jackson, President Tyler, and others. It then became an opera-house, where Jenny Lind, Sontag, Parodi, Jullien, Mario, etc., made their appearance. The building is now used as a depot for inimigi*ants, who are received here from thuir ships, are given aid, information, and protection from sharpers, and are de- sixitehed to tlieir cliosen liomes in the West. Tins is the chief receiving and dis- tributing reservoir of the great tide of immigration from Eurojie. The total of the alien immigration to the U. S. between 1847 and 1870 was 4,297,085 persons ; of whom 1,001,009 were Irish, 1, 030,254 Germans, 5M,0G8 English, 111,238 Scotsey 2, GilTord, Chanipney, Diirand, Richards, Jolinson, Dana ; Boughton 3, Lanibertin 2, Frere 2, Lambdin 2, Noel, Ockcl, Mignot, Guillemin, Diaz, Flanun, Achenbach, and Calame. Besides these there are several copies from anti(iues, and the original Marriage of St. Catherine, by Correggio (catalogues in the gallery). E. of the Academy (on 23d St. ) are the N. Y. College of Physicians and Surgeons, the Demilt Dispensary, the Ophthalmic Hospital, and the Col- lege of the City of N. Y. (corner of Lexington Ave. ; 824 students ; 16,000 vols, in library). Passing W. along 23d St., * Madison Square is soon reached (3 M. from the Battery), a bright and fashion-favored park of 6 acres, surrounded by club-liouses and palatial hotels (Fifth Avenue, Hoffman, Brunswick, etc. ), and adorned with a monument to Gen. Worth. 23d St. runs thence to the Hudson River, passing Booth's Theatre, with the imposing Masonic Temple on the opposite corner, and tlie Grand Opera House on the corner of 8th Ave. Turning to the 1. from 23d St. down 9th Ave. to 20tli St., there may be seen tlie plain stone buildings of the richly endowed and flourishing General Theological Seminary of the Episcopal Church. Broadway runs from Madison Square N. to Central Park in 2 M., passing at first through a cluster of hotels, chief among which is the picturescpie Stevens House {hotel garni, corner of 27th St.). Beyond Wood's Museum (corner of 30th St.) and the stately Congrega- tional Tabernacle (corner of 34th St.), a divergence to the 1. leads to the Manhattan Market, which is at the foot of W. 34th St., and is tlie best building of the kind in the city. It was built in 1871, and cost about $1,250,000, being 800 ft. long and 200 ft. wide. The view from the tower (228 ft. high) uji and down the Hudson River is highly conmiended. At the coraer of Broadway and 52d St. arc the three great palaces of the Hotels Newport, Saratoga, and Albany, French-flat houses. 2G Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. From the point where Broadway reaches the Central Park (corner of 8th Ave. and 59th St.) a grand avenue called the Boulevard, with a parked centre and graceful curves, runs N. to the Harlem River. It is yet new, and has few houses, but is intended for the Champs Elysees of New York. At 73d St. is passed the N. Y. Orphan Asylum, an elegant Gothic building on 15 acres of groimd sloping to the Hudson (200 chil- dren). At 86th St., near the Riverside Boulevard, is the House of Mercy, with its tine chapel. It was founded in 1854: by the Episcopal Church, for reforndng young women, and is under the care of the Sisters of St. Mary. The Leake and Watts Orphan House is at 111th St., and accommodates 250 children. Near this point is the ncAV Morning-side Park, close by the Bloomingdale Asylum for the Insane, which is lo- cated among pleasant gardens covering an area of 40 acres (fronting on 115th St.). The Boulevard now leads by market-gardens and rural villas to the village of Manhatianville (125th -132d St.), which extends to the verge of Harlem Plains. At 129th St. and 10th Ave. is the Sheltering Arms, where 100 sick and needy children are cared for by the Episcopal Sisters of St. Mary. Here are the stately buildings of Manhattan College, with 694 students (in all departments) and 48 professors. It was founded by the Christian Brothers in 1853, and has 2 alUliated acade- mies in the city, — the JManhattan Academy (W. 32d St.) and the De La Salle Institute. Near the college is the great Gothic Convent of tlie Sacred Heart. Manhattanville is 8^ M. from tlie Battery ; and little more tlian 1 M. beyond is Carmansville (formerly owned by the Carman family), a collection of villas near which is the large summer-resort known as the * Riverside Hotel, fronting the Hudson. On 155th St. is Trinity Church Cemetery, where are buried Bishops Wainwright and Onderdonk, Philip Livingston (a signer of the Declaration of Independence), John Jacob Astor, and Audiibon, the naturalist. On 143d St. are the elegant buildings of the Colored Orphan Asylum; near 151st St. is the Soldiers' Orphans' Home; and at the foot of 154th St. is Audubon Park, a collec- tion of residences on the former grounds of the great naturalist. Audubon, the son of a French admiral, was horn at New Orleans in 1780, studied painting under David at Paris, and tnivelled nearly all over the U. S. for 20 years, with rifle and pencil, gathering material for "The Birds of America," — a work in 4 volumes, with 488 life-size colored plates. It was finished in 1S44, and met with great success. It was called by Baron Cuviei', " the most gigantic and most magnificent monument that has ever been erected to nature." Audu- bon resided at this place, writing other great works, from 1839 until his death iu 1851. Carmansville is on the narrow part of the island, on the S. E. slope of Mt. Washiugton and near the High Bridge on Harlem River (the Indian Muscoota). Over the latter is the site of the Morris House, the ancient mansion of Col. Morris, who married Mary Philipsc (the lady who declined Washington's attentions in 1756), and afterwards became a royalist officer. The Morris House overlooks up- per N.Y., Long Island, and the Sound, the Harlem River, Astoria, and Flushing ; and was the head-quarters of Washington during the disastrous campaign of Sept., NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 27 1776. It was afterwards occupied for many years by Madame Jumel, the widow of Aaron Burr. Below Carniansville is " The Grange," the home of Alexander Hamilton, situated on a far-viewing hill, near which is a group of 13 trees, planted by Hamilton, and named after the original States ; the South Carolina tree alone gi'ew up crooked. Near Carniansville is the Clendenning Valley, which is crossed by an aqueduct 1,950 ft. long and .50 ft. deep, with archways for 3 streets. N. of Carniansville is Fort Washington, the chief summit on Manhattan Island (238 ft. high), commanding a noble * view over the upper city, the Hudson, and the bold opposite heights of Fort Lee. It is now occupied by villas, and near the river is the * West End Hotel, a sumptuous summer hotel, with ferry to the Palisade-Mt. House. Upon these heights is ths large mansion with a gilded dome, which was built by James Gordon Bennett, the founder of the " N. Y. Herald." The Institution for the Deaf and Dumb occupies elegvant and spacious buildings in Italian archi- tecture, sumiounted by a domed tower, and is ue.ar the Kingsbridge Road (10 M. from the Battery). It is an educational establishment, with 30 teachers and 400 students (visitors adnutted, 1.30-4 daily). Near 17Gth St. is the N. Y. Juvenile Asylum, with dark granite buildings in a park of 20 acres, accommodating over 500 children. It is for the reformation and i')rotection of children under 14 years of age, and has sheltered over 13,000. The broad Kingsbridge Road runs N. to Kingsbridge (15 M. from the Battery ; built in 1693 by Frederick Philipse), which crosses into the lower parts of Westchester County, rccentl}' annexed to the city of N. Y. ; and roads run thence to Yonkers and Fordham. 7 bridges cross the connected tidal inlets of Spuyten Duyvil Creek and Harlem River, N. of Manhattan Island; of which 2 are for railroads, and 1 is an aqueduct. The * High Bridge is a structure worthy of the Roman Empire. It is 1,450 ft. long and 114 ft. high, is supported on 14 piers, and is used to carry the Croton Aqueduct across the Harlem River. It is 11 M. from the Battery (near 173d St.), is built of granite, and cost $900,000. In this vicinity is the Century House, an inn which was built about the year 1750. Above the bridge is a costly liigh-service reservoir and stand-pipe. The adjacent shores of the river are lofty and Avell wooded, and very picturesque. Soon after the battle of Long Island, the American army marched to Kings- bridge, leaving Putnam and 4,000 men in New York City. Some cannonading was done by American batteries at Catharine Ferry and 46th St. ; and on Sept. 15, Sir Henry Clinton crossed the East River with 4,000 men, and landed at 34th St. under protection of the tire of 10 frigates. The New England brigades of Parsons and Fellows gave way in confusion, and Clinton advanced skirmishing to the Incleberg (between 5th and 6th Avenues and 35th and 38th Sts.). Putnam's 4,000 men in the city were now cut otf ; but while the British generals dallied and rested at the Murray Hill mansion, Aaron Burr piloted Putnam up the W. side of the island to Bloomingdale. The hostile armies now confronted each other on Harlem Plains, and on the next day a sharp skirrnisli occurred at M'Gowan's Pass. Tile Americans threw up strong works on tlie heights, from which (Sept. 20-21) they saw the burning of New York. Unable to force these positions, Gen. Howe 28 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. menaced the line of retreat and supplies by lan2d St. and carried the redoubt al)ove. Tlie Hessians and Highlanders then route 50,000,000. He died in April, 1870. 34tli St. leads W. to the Hudson and the great Manhattan Market, pass- ing the Congregational Tabernacle (Dr. W. M. Taylor), and the turreted and battlemented buildings of the N. Y. Institution for the Blind. At 7th Ave. and 35th St. is the massive and loopholed City Arsenal; at the corner of 9th Ave. and 31st St. are seen the spacious buildings of St. Michael's Schools ; and at 9th Ave. and 36tli St. is the Gothic building of the Northwestern Dispensary. E. of 5th Ave., 34th St. rims to Park Ave., on high ground wliich is maderlaid by the 4th Ave. R. R. tracks, passing tlirough a tunnel over which are well-arranged parks. The Uni- tarian Church of the Messiah fronts on Park Ave., and has a very elegant portal ; and is near the spacious Churcli of the Covenant (Pres.), which is built of gray-stone in Lombardo-Gothic architecture. In this vicinity 30 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. (corner of 4tli Ave. and 32d St.) is a vast and elep;ant iron biiilding, erected by A. T. Stewart for a home for Avorking-wonien. On tlie corner of Sth Ave. and 35th St. is the costly and ultra-ritualistic Christ CkuTch (Epis.), with its renowned artistic music and elaborate frescos; while the plainer Brick Church (Pres.) is on the 37tli St. corner. From 40tli to 42d Sts. (on Murray Hill) is the Distributing Reservoir of the Croton Aqueduct, massively built in Egyptian architecture, 44 ft. high and 420 ft. square, with an area of 4 acres and a capacity yf 23,000,000 gallons. The broad promenade on toj? is open to the public, and commands pleasing views. Reservoir Square is a pretty park to the W. (the former site of the Crystal Palace) ; and the French Catholic Col- lege of St. Louis is farther down on 42d St., beyond the St. Cloud Hotel. Opposite the Reservoir (on 5th Ave.) is the feudal building of Rutgers Female College, founded in 1838, and in 18G7 made a college, with a 4 years' course and an art school. It is to be removed to Morning-side Park. Two squares to the E., on 42d St., is the *" Grand Central Depot, the converging point of several railroads, and the linest building for the purpose in America. It is an enormous structure of brick, stone, and iron, covering 3 acres ; and its W. front, 692 ft. long, in Renaissance architecture, with several Louvre domes, is said to resemble the Tuileries. Just beyond (on 42d St. ) are the round towers and pointed windows of the Asylum for Cripples. The new and spacious Church of the Holy Trinity (S. H. Tyng, Jr.) is on the corner of Madison Ave. and 42d St., above which are the minaret-like towers and graceful round arches of St. Bartliolomeid's Church (Epis.), which has an interior of fan)ed beauty. On tlie next corner is the singular round building of corrugated iron which is occupied by Hepworth's Church of the Disciples. On the corner of 5th Ave. and 43d St. is the Jewislx * Temple Emanuel, the chief of the 27. spiagogues of the city, and the finest piece of Saracenic architecture in America. It has some featiires borrowed from the ancient Alhambra, and the interior is a dazzling picture of Oriental magnificence. At the S. E. corner of 43d St. and 5th Ave. is the former mansion of Wm. M. Tweed, the head of the Tammany Ring. On the 45th St, cor- ner is Dr. Chapin's Universalist Church of tlie Divine Patemitj^, nearly opposite the curious front of the Episcopal Church of the Heavenly Rest. At 46th St. is the luxurious Windsor Hotel ; and at 48th St, is the new and costly Collegiate Dutch Reformed Church. 49th St. leads off to the E. to the buildings of Columbia College, a ven- erable and wealthy institution, which was chartered (as King's College) by George II, of England in 1754. It is the oldest college in the State, and in 1849 was moved from its valuable estate in the lower part of the city to the present build- ings (which were formerly occupied by the State Institution for Deaf-Mutes), The reports of 1870 showed — in the college jiroper, 11 professors and 147 stu- dents ; in the School of Law (opposite the Astor Lilu-ary), 4 jn-ofessors and 204 students ; in the School of Medicine (College of Physicians and Surgeons, 23d NKW YORK CITY. Route 1, 31 St. and 4th Ave.). 10 professors and 309 students ; and in the School of Mines (a widely renov/ned iicieiitiiic institution), 8 professors and 93 students. The AVoman's Hospital of the State of N. Y. is a handsome building at 4th Ave. and 50th St., and is the only hospital in America v/hich is devoted to that specialty. The Child's Hospital is at Lexington Ave. and 50th St., and has build- ings for a Children's Hospital, Foundling Asylum, Lying-in AsyUun, and Nursery. A brilliant Charitv Ball is given annually in behalf of this institution. Near the corner of 2d Atc^uuI 50th St. is the Greek Church, a building in Saracenic archi- tecture, wherein the impressive Russo-Greek ritual is solenuiized. At the comer of Lexington Ave. and 47th St. is St. Alban's, the most advanced Ritualistic church in America. At the corner of 5tli Avenue and 50th St. is the * Cathedral of St. Patrick (Cath.), Avhich is to be the finest church in America. It was commenced in 1858, and is now nearly half done. The building occupies the highest point on the avenue, and will be a landmark for leagues. It is firmly founded on solid ledges of rock, and is built of white marble, in the decorated Gothic style of the 13th century (somewhat resembling the Cathedral of Cologne). It is .3.32 ft. long and 96 ft. wide (140 ft. at the transepts) ; and the front is to be guarded by two marble spires, each 328 feet in height, adorned with statuary, pinnacles, and rich carvmgs, and flanking a central gable 156 ft. high. The interior columns of marble support a high clere-story ; and the lofty and elegant front portal (now complete) is worthy of close inspection. N, of the cathedral is the Cath- olic Orphan Asylum. The spacious Church of St. Thomas (Epis. ) is just above (on the 1.), and is near St. Luke's Hospital, a refuge for the sick without regard to sect or nation (no contagious or chronic diseases al- lowed ; patients who are able pay ^ 7 a week). It is under the care of the Episcopal Sisters of the Holy Communion, whose members pass a disciplinary novitiate, and then enter the order for 3 years' service, after which they are free, if they so desire. At 55th St. is the new Presby- terian Church (Dr. Hall's), the largest of that sect in the world. The ground cost $350,000, and the building has cost $500,000. At 59th St. is the Scholars' Gate to the Central Park. Near the S. E. corner of the Park, the Central Park Hotel is to be erected. W., on 59th St. (which skirts the Park), is the lofty new building of Charlier's French Institute, near the Central Park gardens (orchestral music). On 59th St., near the Hudson River, is the vast and ornate Roosevelt Ilosjntal (founded by the late James H. Roosevelt) ; and \ M. S. (corner 9th Ave. and 49th St.) is the Convent of the Order of Paulists. ^ Passing N. on 5th Ave. from 59th St., the Central Park is on the 1. for 2J M. The avenue is but partially built up, on accoimt of the great price of the land. To the r., on Lexington Ave. (at 55th and 63d Sts.), are 2 new and costly synagogues, with powerful organs. The * Park Museum is passed at 64th St. ; and at TOtli St. (near the Children's Gate) is the * Lenox Library, a new and stately marble building, costing $ 900,000, and designed for the reception of a museum, art-gallery, library, and 32 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. lecture-hall. Close by is the Lenox Bosintal (Presbyterian), a quaint and ornate brick and stone structure, witli tall and slender spires. % 500,000 was given to this institution by James Lenox, the munificent founder of the library. A few rods distant, on the old Hamilton Square (and built at a cost of .$390,000), is the spacious and imposing new structure of the Normal College, in the secular Gotliic style, with a lofty and massive Victoria tower. The Foundling Hospital is still farther E. ; and in plain sight is tlie Mount Sinai Hosjntal (Jewish), a cluster of buildings in Elizabethan architecture, erected at a cost of ^ 340,000. The vast Ger- man park and beer-garden called Jones's Wood is still farther E., at tlie river-side, and looks across on Blackwell's Island. The Colored Home is at the foot of 64th St, near the East River ; and the Baptist Old Ladies' Home is on the corner of 6Sth St. and 4th Ave. At 73d St. and Madison Ave. is the Presbyterian Home for Aged Women ; at 77th St. and 3d Ave. is the Hebrew Orphan Asylum ; and at 79th St. and 4th Ave. is the German Hospital. Near 80th St., the Belvedere Tower is seen to the 1., in the Park ; and beyond this are the embankments of the reservoir. At 81st St. and Madison Ave. is the Convent of St. Catharine, occupied by the Sisters of Mercy, and surrounded by auxiliary charitable institutions. At 86th St. and Madison Ave. is the Shepherd's Fold, for poor children ; and at 5th Ave. and 89th St. is the Magdalen Benevolent Institution. At 88th St. and Madison Ave. is St. Luke's Home for Indigent Christian Females, a fine Gothic building, adjoining the new memorial Church of the Beloved Disciple. Farther E., on 89th St., is the Convent of Notre Dame, near St. Joseph's Orphan Asylum and the House of the Good Shepherd, with about 500 women who have been reclaimed from the evil life, and are cared for by 80 sisters. Near 105th St., Mount St. Vincent and the Great Hill are seen, on the 1. of 5th Ave. ; and the avenue soon leaves the Park, and enters an undulating and picturesque region. At 118th St. it reaches Mount Morns, the park of Harlem, and, curving around its rugged base, passes on to Harlem, a large and populous vil- lage on the Harlem River, with several fine churches and a lucrative manufacturing industry. An iron bridge crosses the Harlem River at this point, near which a large flotilla of pleasure-boats is kept for hire, and the steamboats for Peck Slip and Pligh Bridge are moored. Horse-cars nni from Harlem to Maidiattanville. From the N. side of the bridge horse-cars run to Morrisania, Ti-emont, and Fordham (45 min. ; 10c. ), traversing a dull and uninteresting wooden suburb, inhabited chiefly by Germans. CENTRAL Ey^K.j 1. Old Arsenal an J Museum 2. M^hAick 7). S/alursrolong their sports by the liglit of numerous gas-jets with strong reflectors. More pedestrians visit the Park iu winter than in sunnuer, attracted by the skating ; and large temporuiy refreshment saloons are erected near the Lake for their benefit. Tiie swans are a notable feature here, and were presented by the city of naml)urg and the Worshipful Companies of Vintneis and Dyers of Lou- don. They thrive and increase, and endure the cold of the severest winters. The W. arm of the Lake is crossed by the massive Balcony Bridge ; and on the slopes N. of the Lake is the Ramble, a tract of 36 acres of copse and lawn, rock-work, and retired nooks, threaded by a labyrinth of romantic foot-paths. The statue of Schiller is near the lake-shore ; on the W. are the Grotto and the Stone Arch ; and on the E. are the Ever- green Walk and the Dovecot. S, of the latter (near 5th Ave.) is the Con- servatory Lake, near the large new conservatory and flower-garden. N. of the Ramble is the * Belvedere, a loftily situated cluster of quaint structures in Norman architecture, built of massive masonry, and resem- bling some ancient Rhenish ca.stle. The view from the tower is broad NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 35 and pleasing, including a large portion of the Park, the E. and W. suburbs of New York, and the great arches of the High Bridge over and far be- yond the Reservoirs. Tlie Old Reservoir is just above the Belvedere, and covers 31 acres. It is 105 ft. above the tide, contains 150,000,000 gallons of Croton water, and is surrounded by ponderous walls of masonry. Above this artificial lake, and separated from it by the transverse road (or sub- way) of S6th St., is the New Reservoir, a massive granite struc- ture covering 106 acres, and holding 1,000,000,000 gallons. The gate- houses are fine stone buildings in which is kept the powerful machinery of the water- works. Above the New Reservoir is the Uj^j^cr Park, which is less visited and has less artificial embellishment than the Lower Park, but is richer in marked natural beauties. Passing the broad plains called the East and West Meadows, on the E. is seen Mount St. Vincent, on which are the buildings formerly occupied by the Mother House and Con- vent of the Sisters of Chanty. A large restaurant is now located here ; and the chapel contains 87 casts from the statuary of Crawford (presented by his widow). To the E. is the Arboretum ; and to the W. is Harlem Lake (covering 16 acres), with its bold S. shore lined with the remains of old fortifications. A pretty falling stream, spanned by 5 bridges and abounding in cascades, enters Harlem Lake after running N. E. down the ravine called M'Ooioan's Pass. Over the Pass is the Great Hill, on whose summit is a carriage-concourse, whence a broad view is gained; and the liliijf is a bold ridge which terminates the Park on the N., and bears the remains of old forts and field-works. The great buildings for the Museum of Arts and the Museum of Natural History are far advanced towards completion. They are of brick, with stone trimmings, and have no architectural attractions. j Tliey are to cost over $ 6,000,000. When completed, each of them is to i have the form of the letter H, of which only the cross-bar is now under I construction. The Natural-History building is N. W. of the Lake, on Manhattan Square, near Stii Ave., and is to be opened in 1876, with tlie collections now in the Old Arsenal, great archffiological and ethnological museums, and other invaluable treasures of science and anticpiity. The Art building is on the 5th -Ave. side, near 82d St., and has been severely criticised. It will be opened late in 1877, and will perhaps receive some of the collections now in the Metropolitan Museum. The Lenox Library is near this building. In the vicinity of and under the advantages of these immense museums and libraries it is expected that one of the fore- most universities of the world will be established. Among the ornaments which have moie recently been added to the Park, the foremost is the colossal * statue of Daniel Webster, which was made in Italy (at a cost of $05,000), and rests on a block of Quincy 35 a Route 1. NEW YOUK CITY. granite weighing 30 tons. It occupies a prominent position, where the drive-way on the W. side passes the S. bay of the Lake, not far from the Terrace. On a jutting rock between this point and the Terrace is one of the most graceful and spirited works of art in the Park, the * Falconer, a bronze statue 7 ft. high (cast in Florence) representing a young man clad in doublet and hose, with a falcon poised for flight on his out- stretched left hand. Near the drive-way between this point and the 8th- Ave. Gate is a colossal bronze statue of a soldier, erected in memory of tlie men of the 7th N. Y. Regiment who died in the secession war. The l)edestal is adorned with bronze troi»hies. Near the S. end of the Mall is a large bronze group by J. Q. A. Ward, representing an Indian hunter and his dog. Farther to the N. is a group of large birds of prey, in bronze ; beyond which, and near the terrace, is a bronze group (by Augnste Caine) representing a tigress giving food to her cubs. Near the Mall are to be erected statues of Robert Burns (opposite Scott), Daniel O'Connell, and others. The French Government has given to the city of New York a noble bronze statue of Lafayette (by Bartholdi ; costing S 30,000), representing him as standing upon the bulwark of the ship, on the way to America. It is now in New York, and will soon be erected in the Park. There are also colossal busts of Goethe and William Cullen Bryant now in the city, destined for the Park. Other statues for which subscriptions are being made are those of Thomas Moore, Fitz-Greene Halleck, Cervantes, and Irvhig, — the latter of whicli will be accom- panied by statues of Rip Van Winkle and Diedrich Knickerbocker. The Belvedere tower commands a view to the S. down the Mall, over whose 1. side is the great white mass of the Cathedral, broken by the towers of St. Tliomas's Episcopal and the Fifth-Ave, Pres. churches. To the r. are the distant and manifold towers, si)ires, and domes of New York, with the Louvre dome of the Post-OiRce, the Tribune tower, and Trinity spire. Farther to the r. are the pinnacles of the Roosevelt Hospital, with the Hudson on the r., over wliich are the Hoboken heights, crowned by the three-domed church of the Passionist convent. The long Orange Moun- tain is far beyond. Close at hand on the W. is the Museum of Natural History, a tive-story brick building over and on each side of which are the slianties towards the Boulevard. The long and massive line of the Palisades runs to the N., and suddenly breaks down, precipitously, be- yond the light-colored walls of the Palisades Mountain House. On the r. of the Hudson valley are the Fort- Washington Heights, with the dark convent of the Sacred Heart ; and to the r. of the lofty stand-pipe are the arches of the High Bridge. The hilly districts of the old Westchester towns appear over tlie reservoirs, with Harlem on the r., flanked by the broad waters of the Sound. To the r. of the Gothic-windowed Art build- ing are the hills and villages of Long Island, and then the eye rests on the NEW YOKK CITY. Route 1. 35 6 nearer cluster of the Lenox Hospital, Normal College, and Mt. Sinai Hos- pital, with the white Lenox Library on their r. Just to the r. of the libiary are the many spires and domes of Brooklyn. One of the most interesting objects now seen from Mt. St. Vincent is the long and massive railroad viaduct, on the E, Among tlic casts in the beautiful little chapel are those of the Washington Monument at l;irhmond, Jefferson, Lincoln, Otis, Orpheus, Hebe, Aurora, Apollo, Diana, Cupid, Flora, Herodias, David, Psyche, Adam and Eve, Mercury, the Angel, and numerous bas-reliefs and Indian statues. Below the chapel are several Esquimaux boats, cannon recovered from H. B. M. frigate Hussar, shot fired into and from Charleston, and other curiosities. In 1851 a movement was made to secure a park for tlie citizens of N. Y., and Downing, the eminent landscape-gardener, advocated it with fluent jien. In 180G the ]>resent site of tlic Park was a dreary and desolate re^^ion of swamps and ledges, disfigured with heaps of cinders, potsherds, and rubbish, denuded of all vegetation except tangled thickets, and dotted with the squalid shanties of rude and degraded squatters. In that year the work began which has given the city the most beautiful and one of the largest of the parks of the world. It is a i>ar- allelogram, 2^ M. long and ^ M. wide ; and is nearly 5 M. N. of the Battery, and 1 M. from the rivers on either side. It includes 8G2 acres, of which 185 are cov- ered with water (45 acres of lakes and 142 of reservoirs). There are 9- 10 M. of carriage-roads, G M. of bridle-paths, and 25 M. of walks ; while communication across the island is confined to 4 sunken roads which pass from E. to W. through the Park and under its drive-ways. In 1870 the boats on the Lake were used by ll.'],0S2 visitors ; and 112,245 patronized the Park carriages. 200,000 trees and shrubs have been ]'lanted here, many of which were transplanted when quite large. In 1873 the Park was visited by 10,160,15'.> people, of whom 4,808,020 were on foot, 56,955 on horseback, and the rest were in 1,711,528 carriages. The cost of the Park, up to Jan. 1, 1874, was §13,902,515. Through M'Gowan's Pass led the " Old Boston Road," the first road out of N. Y. on the E. ; and by this route the Huguenots of New Rochelle came f>n Sunday to the French Church in the city. In the disastrous Sei)t(^mber of 1776, this vi- cinity was the shelter and rallying ])oint of the demoralized American army. Af- ter the British army had landed at 2Sd St. (East River), the American rearguard, under Putnam, retreated hastily from the lower ])art of the island, and were en- gaged in the present Upper Park by the enemy's light infantry. The next day Gen. Leslie advanced tiuough M'Gowan's Pass, drove back the American pickets, and deployed on Ilarlem Plains. The C(mtineJit;il troops soon attacked Leslie's men, but Col. Knowlton fell wliile leading the Conn. Rangers, and M.aj. Leitch was pierced by 3 bullets while charging with the Vii^inians'. The Maryland line then came to the rescue, and the British were driven back across the Plains with severe losses. But they held and fortified M'Gowan's Pass, from which they were not dislodged. Most of the fortifications now found in the Upper Park were erected in the War of 1812. The East Rivex. The best way to see the East River villages and islands, Harlem, and the High Bridge, is to take the steamboat from Peck Slip (at the foot of Beekman St., and a short distance above Fulton Ferry). These boats make 16 trips daily (fare, lOc), stopping at lith and r20th Sts., and connect with steamers for High Bridge. Passing out into the stream between the crowded shores of Brookljm and New York, forests of masts are seen on either side ; the tall piers of the East River Bridge, the many vessels in the river, and the retrospect of Governor's Island and the harbor, attract the attention. At the foot 36 Route 1. NEW YORK CITY. of Pike St. (1. ) is the Sectional Dry-Dock, beyond which are mimemus large ship-yards and dry-docks. On the r. is seen the U. S. Navy Yard, with its ship-houses, naval dry- dock, batteries, and vessels of the fleet ; above which is that portion of Bi'ooklyn formerly known as Williams- burg. At the foot of 12th St, (1.) are the immense Novelty Iron Works, near the works of the Manhattan Gas Company. At the foot of 26th St. is Bellevue Hospital, a free public institution with 1,200 beds, attended by the most eminent doctors, and famed for its clinical instruction. Neaft the hospital is the Morgue, a gi-ay-stone building, where the unidentified human corpses which are found in the streets and rivers of the city are exposed to public view for 3 days. Nearly opposite Bellevue, Newtown Creek is seen indenting the E. shore ; above which is Hunter's Point (L. I. City), where the Long Island railroad system converges. The boat now approaclies * BlackweWs Island, tlie Indian Minnahanock, which was owned for many years by the Blackwell family, and was bought by the city in 1828. It occupies 120 acres, and is surrounded by a sea-wall. The buildings are all of granite, quarried liere by the convicts, and prob- ably there is nowhere else in the world a cluster of charitable and correc- tional institutions which combine so much of strength, comfort, and practical power for restraint. The Small-Pox Hospital is a Gothic building at the S. end. It was built in 1854, and in 1870 received 977 patients, of whom 100 died. The Fever Hospitals are to the W., and the Epileptic and Paralytic Hospitals are on the E. To the N. is the Charity Hospital, an inmiense granite building (354 by 122 ft.), with 29 wards and 1,200 beds. The E. wing is for men ; the W. wing for women. 7,000 patients are treated here yearly, of whom 450 die. The wards are models of neatness, and the medical attendance is skilful. Next to the Hospital is the Penitentiary, a vast, gloomy, and massive building, with a battlemented roof and centre and flanking towers. It is altogether built of granite and iron. It has 756 cells, but is always crowded, and a new penitentiary is to be built on Hart's Island, 12 M. distant on L. I. Sound. The male convicts are dressed in striped garments, and work on the new buildings on Ward's, Randall's, and Hart's Islands, having ex- hausted the quarries on JBlackwell's and covered it with massive buildings. Over 1,500 prisoners are received here yearly, most of whom are under 25 years of age, — I are women, and over h are foreigners. N. of the Penitentiary are 2 large Almshouses (one for each sex), C50 ft. apart, with high verandas and neat grounds. These buildings are for the aged and infirm ]^oor, of whom 1,100 - 1,200 can be ac- commodated. Near by are the Hospitals for Incurables. To the W. is the si)a- cious Workhouse (of local hewn granite, 680 ft. long), the receptacle for the vagrant and dissipated classes of the great city. The terms of commitment are short (averaging 10 days) ; drunkenness is the chief cause of detention ; and there are 15 -20,000 persons sent here yearly, of whom comparatively few are Americans. The octagonal building with long wings (one for each sex) is the City Lunatic Asylum, and on the E. is a separate building for the more noisy patients. The Blackwell's Island institutions can only be visited by persons bearing a pass from the Commissioners (office, E. 11th St. and .3d. Ave). The island is surrounded by deep ship-channels, patrolled by guard-boats ; and the shoi-es are watched by sentries. W. of Blackwell's Island, the space between 60th and 80th Sts. is oc- cupied by Jones's Wood, formerly a favorite German resort and beer- garden. The Woods are now fast giving way before the advance of NEW YORK CITY. Route 1. 37 the city streets, E. of the island are the villas of Ravenswood, and as tlie boat leaves the island behind, Astoria is seen on the r., a place of villas, flower-gardens, and picturesque shores. The boat now passes along the W. verge of Hell Gats, a dangerous strait at the W. entrance of L. I. Sound, obstructed by sunken rocks and strong currents, A greater amount of commercial property passes through this thoroughfare every year than through the Narrows; of late years extensive improve- ments have been (and are being) made by U, S. Engineers and WeKIi miners, who have mined the ledges in every direction. Ward's Island is now seen on the r., covering 200 acres. It was called by the Indians Tenkenas, and was bought by Van Twiller in 1637. The elegant and im- posing Inebriate Asyluvi accommodates 400 patients, for whose benelit religious and moral instruction is added to physical supervision. About 200 soldiers, infirm and honorably discharged, are taken care of in the Soldiers' Retreat, in this building. On the E, end of the island is the new Lunatic Asylum ; and 106 acres are occupied by the farms and spa- cious buildings of the Emigrant Refurje and Hos]iital. The city has re- cently built a large Catholic church on the island. The steamer passes' between Ward's Island and Manhattan, and soon comes in sight of Randall's Island, sepai-ated from Ward's by Little Hell Gate. On its S, shore is the House of Refuge, a great line of build- ings, with 4 domes, in Italian architecture, and with 1,000 ft, of frontage. It generally has 700 boys and 150 girls, who are sent here by their parents or by the courts, and are subjected to necessary restraints, and required to labor 6-8 hours daily, and to attend school 4-5 hours. As soon as they appear to be really reformed, they are indentured out to trades or to fanners. On Randall's Island are also the Nurseries, 6 large buildings where are kept 2,400 children, found abandoned in the streets or siuTendered by i^oor jiarents ; also the Infant Hospital, for 3-400 young children, and the Idiot Asylum, ac- commodating 150 ]iatients. Tlie list of city correctional institutions is coni- I)loted by the Catholic Protectory, on the adjacent mainland, in the old town of W. Farms. The innnense buildings of this society (for protecting and uplifting destitute or vicious Roman Catholic children) are called the Houses of the Holy Angels. The boys (7-800 in number) are cared for by the Christian Brothers ; and the girls occupy an imj^osing edifice in ultra-Gothic architecture, with many spires and pinnacles, and are supervised by the Sisters of Charity. 12 M. to the E., on Hart's Island, are the Industrial School (for vicious boys) and the City Cemetery. Beyond Randall's Island, the steamboat follows the Harlem River to the N., between the suburbs of Harlem and Morrisania, and stops near Har- lem Bridge (wlience a line of horse-cars runs N. to Tremont and Ford- ham in 5 M. ), Smaller steamers run from Harlem to Macomb's Dam, the High Bridge (see page 27), and Spuyten Duyvil, The trip to or from Harlem may also be made by the 3d Avenue horse-cars, from the Astor House. 3S Route 2. BROOKLYN. Jersey City (* Taylor's Hotel, European plan, at the ferry ; horse-cars to Hoboken, Coramunipaw, and Bergen Heights ; railroads to Newark and Elizabeth, Philadelphia and Easton, and to the S. and W. generally ; steamships to Queenstown and Liverpool) is a place of but little interest to the tourist. It is in the State of New Jersey, opposite N. Y. City, with which it is connected by several ferries over the Hudson River. To the N. is Hoboken, the terminal point of 3 lines of German steam- ships, and of railroads to the S. and W. The Stevens Institute of l^ech; nology is a school of mechanical engineering, fomided by Edwin A. Stevens in 1867, and endov/ed with $050,000. It has a fine building, and is provided with apparatus and cabinets which are unexcelled in the country. In 1779 the present site of Jtrsey City was a sandy peninsula called Paulus Hook, on whicli (near the present corner of Grand and Greene Sts.) were 2 strong forts, garrisoned by the 57th British regiment. Aug. 19, 1779, Maj. Henry Lee, with 300 picked men, surprised the works at dawn, and captured 159 men, hut drew off before the guns of the larger fort, and retired with hut slight loss. For this spirited achievement, Lee was honored by Congress with a gold medal. y. W. of Jersey City is Commuiupaw, an antiquated Dutch village, Avhich was granted to Michael Panw, director of the Dutch W. I. Company, in 1G30. He be- came patroon of a great domain, which he named P.ivonia, or Communipauw, — the Comnume of Pauw, — the Latin pavo and the Dutch pauw both meaning pea- cock. By orders of Gov. Kieft, the Dutch troops fell upon the Indian village of Arisshek, on this site, in 1643, and cruelly massacred 80 persons. Soon afterwanl the Indians attacked Communipaw, and exterminated its inhabitants (excepting one family) ; and the next settlers surrounded it with walls. 2. Brooklyn. Hotels. — * Pierrepont House, corner of Montague and Hicks Sts., $4 a day ; Mansion House, Henry St.; Clinton House, Fulton St., near Clinton; Brooklyn House, at Hamilton Ferry. Restaurants. — Snedeker's, 187 Montague St., near Court ; Dieter's, 305-313 "VVashin.uton St., near the Post-Office ; the Bank, near the City Hall. Theatres. — ^* Academy of Music, Montague St., near Court, for operas and concerts; the Brooklyn, Wasliington St., near Fulton; the New Park, Fulton St. Varieties at Hooley's Opera House, Court St. Reading-Kooms. — Mercantile Library, Montague St., near the City Hall ; y. .M. C. A., Fulton Ave. Post-Office, on Washington St., near Fulton. H or se- Cars. — From Fultoii Ferry (every 6 minutes), by the Wall St., South, and Atlantic Ferries, and along Atlantic Ave., to E. New York (connecting there with steam-cars to Cauarsie, Jamaica, and Rockaway) ; from Fulton Ferry, by Furman St., Atlantic, Flatbush, and 5th Aves., to Greenwood Cemetery (con- necting there with steam-cars for New Utrecht, Bath, and Coney Island) ; from Fulton Ferry, on Water, Washington, and Fulton Sts. and De Kalb Ave. , to New- town (with a branch on Water, Bridge, Willoughby, De Kalb, and Broadway) ; from Fulton Ferry, by Fulton St. and Flatbush Ave., to Prospect Park and Flat- bush ; from Fulton Ferry, on Fulton and Sands Sts. and Flushing Ave., Broad- way, Graham, and Van Coit Aves. ; from Fulton Ferry, on Fulton St. and Ave., to E. New York ; from Fulton Ferry, on Furman St., by the lower ferries, to Hamilton Ferry ; from Fulton Ferry, on Fulton St. and Greene, Franklin, and Gates Aves., to Broadway ; from Fulton Ferry to Greenpoint, by Clason Ave. or by Washing- ton Ave. ; from Fulton Ferry to Greenwood, by Fulton and Court Sts. and Ham- ilton Ave. ; from Fulton Ferry to Broadway, by Fulton St. and Myrtle Ave. ; from Fulton Ferry to Greenwood, by Fulton St., Flatbush and 3d A^'es. ; from Fulton jH Hillsaale ^^ '-^--vloflf 1 3 ^^ estwooH Q ^ -Kinderkamak VfA Godwin V."\, \^ -.^ _,„, ^ i-Ridgewooa 'TVnnklerXX.d , EiverE, KEW YORK AND VICINITY. ') 1 '^ a 4 5 BROOKLYN. Route 2. 30 Ferry, by Water, Main, Prospect, Jaj', Smith, and 9th Sts., to City Line (con- necting ibr Coney Island) ; from Fulton Ferry, by Water, Bridge, Concord, and Navy Sts., Park, Vanderbilt, and 9th Aves., to Greenwood ; from Hamilton Ferry to Erie Basin ; to Prospect Park, by Sackett, Hoyt, and Bergen Sts. From Wil- liamsbnrgh (foot of Broadway) to the Penitentiary, by 1st, Kent, Clason, Flushing, and Nostrand Aves. ; to the Lutheran Cemetery, to Calvary Cemetery, to Montrose Ave. ; from Bridge St. Ferry to Prospect Park ; from Roosevelt St. Ferry to E. New York ; from South Ferry to R. R. stations and 34th St. Ferry (cross-town line) ; from Grand and Houston St. Ferries to Myrtle Ave. Park ; from Grand St. to Pi'ospect Park ; from Greenwood to Bay Ridge and Fort Hamilton. Railroads. — From Long Island City to Sag Harbor and Greenport (L. I. R. R.; Route 5) ; to College Point and Flushing (Route G) ; to Rockaway anioininent are the Nelhermead and Meadow Port Arches and the Cleft Ridge Spun. * Greenwood Cemetery is 3 M. from Fulton Ferry (several lines of horse-cars). It is the most beautiful cemetery in the world, and its forest- covered and far-viewing hills are adorned with thousands of costly monu- ments and mausolea. The grounds (413 acres) were laid out by skilful landscape-gardeners, and are provided with 17 M. of carriage-roads (graded and paved) and 15 M. of patlis (covered with concrete). On and about these pleasant hills 172,000 bodies have been buried, and about 20 per day are now brought to rest in Greenwood. (Carriages are in waiting at the entrance, to make the tour of the grounds.) The * Nortliern Entrance is a stately Gothic pile of sh. On Crescent Water front the marble tomb of Niblo, the Gotliic chapel of Plieljts, and the gi-ave of Dr. Betlume. Beyond Ali)ine Hill arc the delicate Oriental mausoleum of Garrison, the urn of Udol])ho Wolfe, and tlie grave of George AVood. On Vista Hill rests Prof Edward Robinson, the foremost Oriental scholar of America (near the line statue of Capt. Concja) ; (m Central Ridge are George Griswold and Erskine Mason ; ami on Lawn-Girt Hill is tlie Pierrepont mound. Buttonwood Hill has the Scliermerliorn mausoleum ; and on Syc^amore Ave. are Morgan's Ionic temple and Quintard's statue. On Butternut Hill is the Harjiers' lot ; and on Locust Ave. rests Gen. Strong, who fell in tlie assault on F(jrt Wag- ner (Charleston). At the crossing of Vine and Cypress Aves. is the open peristyle of Scribner, supported by 8 marble pillars and enshrining a statue of Hope, oil a pedestal which has reliefs of the Nativity, Crucifi.xion, Resurrection, and Ascen- sion (carved in Carrara). On Sassafras Ave. are the grounds of Prof. Renwiek and Geoi'ge Law, the financier. On Cypress, near Dawn Ave., rests Gen. O. M. Mitchell, the astronomer and soldier. On Ocean Ave. are Dr. Valentine Mott and Rev. Dudley A. Tyng, whose famous dying words, " Stand up for Jesus," are carved upon the monument. On Atlantic Ave., near Ocean, are the graves of David 44: Route 2. CONEY ISLAND. A1)eel, tlie missionary, John Cleveland, and the Cornell family. David Hale lies near Border Ave. On Ocean Hill (whieh overlooks Long Island and the ocean) is the costly and massive octagonal inansoleum of Stephen Whitney, with lancet windows of stained glass. Near Grove Ave. are the gronnds of Liiientlial, Peter Cooper, Cutler, Arnold (with a costly memorial), and Cozzens, on which is a tine bas-relief by H. K. Brown. On Atlantic Ave. is the Soldiers' Lot, where, on the 30th of May of each year, the (titizens strew Howei-s over the graves of many oHi- eers and siloting a ship on tlie N. J. coast. Near by is an Ionic teniide with statues of the 4 Evangelists, belonging to John Anderson ; and the trophy-adorned monument of Col. Vosburgh (71st N. Y.) is E. of the Pi- lot's. From the summit of Battle Hill is obtained a broad view of the Bay of N. Y., the great cities, Staten Island, and the N. J. shore. The *view from the Plateau, just S. E. of Battle Hill, is even more grand, and includes also the level plains of Long Island and the blue ocean. In Bay Side Dell, near the Northern Entrance, is the bronze statue of DeWitt Clinton, the originator of the Erie Canal, Gov. of N. Y., 1817-22 and 1824 -27, and candidate for the Presidency in 1812. On Battle Hill is the new monument erected by N. Y. City to her dead soldiers. It is a granite shaft, adorned with bas-reliefs and guarded by 4 bronze statues. Bay Ridge is S. W. of Brooklyn, on the shore of the bay, and has many pleasant villas, an Athenaeum, and a line view over the inner harbor. It is i-eached by horse-cars from Greenwood, or by ferry (15c.) from the Wall St. ferry-house, N. Y. Farther S is Fort Hamilton, a village front- ing on the Narrows, near which is tlie Kings County Inebriate A.syluni. The Delhvood House, near Bay Ridge, is visited in summer. Conoy Island (^T^J^uwfi //o«5e; Fcltefs; Ocean; and several restaurants and small hotels) is reached by cars from Greenwood Cemetery, passing through the pleasant village of Bath {Bath Hotel; Atlantic), on Graves- end Bay. It is also reached by cars from Fulton Ferry and Prospect Park, and by steamboat from Pier 1, E. R. The island is 4-^- M. long, and very narrow, and is compose*!, for the most part, of sand-dunes. The beach is hard and level, and affords a good driveway for 3 M. The bathing is good, and clams and fi.sh abound. Between the island and Sandy Hook is the wide Lower Bay, with the sinuous ship-channels to tlie inner harbor. Of late years this beach has been the favorite excur- sion-point of the lower classes of New York, and visitors returning on the late boats will be apt to see much boisterous and uncouth conduct. A fine shell-road leads to the mainland and the ancient town of Graves- STATEN ISLxiND. Rmite S. 45 end, which was founded before 1G40 by Quakers from Mass. , under the direction of Lady Deborah Moody. E. of Coney Island is Barren Island, where the dead animals of New York are utilized by large bone-boiling establishments. 3. Staten Island. Steamhoats run hourly from Pier 19 N. R. to New Brighton, Port Richmond, and Elm Park ; and tVoni Whitehall St. to Tompkinsville, Stapletou, and Clifton (fare, 10c. ). Each of these lines passes down the harbor between the fortiiied islands, and affords panoramic views of the cities on either shore. Horsc-curs traverse the populons N. .shore of the island ; and the Staten Island R. R. runs S. W. 13 M., from Vauderbilt's Landmg to Tottenville. Staten Island, 'Hhe American Isle of Wight," and the "Staaten Eylandt " of the Dutch era, is S. W, of N. Y. Bay, and pertains to the State of N. Y. It is separated from New Jersey by the long and narrow Staten Island Soimd and the Kill Von Kull, and from Long Island by the Narrows, and fronts to the S. E., on Raritan Bay. It has an area of 58i sq. M., and a population of 33,029 (in 1870). The drives about the upper part of the island are very attractive, especially those on Rich- mond Terrace, the Serpentine Road, Clove Road, Vanderbilt Avenue, and to Silver Lake and Ocean View. There are broad views from the heights over the bay and the ocean. The mts. of N. J. are in the W.; and to the N. E, are the thronged harbor and the great cities. Hudson visited the island in 1609, and in 1630 Michael Pauw established here the feudal domain of Pavonia. The first village was founded in 1639, and was destroyed 4 yeai-s later by the Indians. Many French Huguenots settled here after tlie revocation of the Edict of Nantes ; and tlie British held possession during the Revolution, though much harassed by partisan attacks from the N. J. shore (especially those under Gen. Sullivan, Aug. 21, 1777, when 150 British soldiers were made prisoners, and by Lord Stirling, with 2,500 men, in 1780). Extensive encampments were formed here in 1812-15, and during the Secession War. New Brighton (St. Mark's ; Pavilion ; Belmont ; simimer hotels) is a popiilous village, containing 9 churches and many pleasant villas of N. Y. merchants. To the W., and fronting on the Kill Von Kull, are the fine buildings of the Sailors' Snug Harbor, which was founded in 1831, for the support of aged and disabled seamen who have sailed for 5 years from the port of N. Y. It accommodates 300 men, and has large rev- enues. Near the Snug Harbor is an asylum for 130 destitute children of seamen. Port Richmond is a manufacturing village W. of this point. Tompkinsville is under the heights, which are 310 ft. above the sea, and was formerly the site of the extensive Quarantine buildings, destroyed by the people in 1858. The present N. Y. Quarantine is "without a rival in the world," and is located on Dix and Hoffman Islands, 2 arti- ficial works on West Bank Shoal, 2h M. S. of the Narrows, and Ih M. from the shore. There is also a hospital-ship moored in the Lower Baj^, and cases of ship-fever and small-pox are sent respectively to Ward's and Blackwell's Island. VanderbilVs Landing is near the villages of Staple- 4G Rmde/f. STATEN ISLAND. ton and Clifton, which front on the Narrows. In this vicinity is the Seamen's Retreat (accommodating 200 sick seamen); also the Mariners' Family Asylum, and St. Mary's Orphan Asylum. On Clifton Heights is the Chestnut Grove House, a summer hotel overlooking the Bay. The Staten Island Jl. li. runs S. W., by the Moravian hamlet of New Dorp to Court-House, which is near Eiclnnond, the county-seat, where is the venerable Church of St. Andrew, built in 1713, and rebuilt in 1867. The Lower Bay and Raritan Bay are often seen on the 1. as the train passes through the broad town of Westfield (famous for oysters), and the low shores of Sandy Hook are visible in the distance. Near Totienville, the tenninus of the road, is the old Billop House, where, after the Battle of Long Island, Lord Howe held a barren conference with Franklin, Adams, and Rutledge, who had been sent by Congress to treat for peace. A steam-ferry crosses from Tottenville to Perth Amboy, wlience trains run to New York, by way of Rah way and Newark, in 27 M. The Fortifications. — 1 M. S. E. of Clifton is Fort Richmond, situated on a higli bluU", ami uiuuutiiiy 140 guns. It is a massive work, with granite walls, se(;ond only to Fortress Monroe in strength, and arranged to deliver a ]ilui)ging lire on the Narrows. Attached to Fort Richmond are 4 clifF-hatteries, mounting 80 heavy camion ; and at the water-side is Foi't Tompkins, with 40 guns sweeping the channel. Fort JIa>uilton is opposite Fort Richmond, and is a rectangular bastioned work of blue granite, with a iieace-garrison of 3 companies, in case- mate-ban-acks. It has a water-battery of 18 15-in(;h guns, and 2 lines of heavy batteries on the Bath Road, commanding the liower Bay and Gravesend Bay. Several of these guns are Rodmans, throwing 1,000-pound shot. The main work mounts 80 guns, cost ^;500,000, and was built 1824 - 32. A field-battery on this jiosi- tion was demolished by a broadside from the British line-of-battle ship Asia in 1776. On a reef 200 yards oil' shore is Fort Lafayette, which was built in 1 812, cost $ 350,000, mounted 73 guns, and was famous .as a prison for disloyal civilians during the Secession War. It was burnt out in 1868, and has not yet been re-armed. On Sandy Hook is a well-armed lunette, with flanking batteries, to keep the Lower Bay clear. After passing the 400 lieavy guns which bear on the Narrows (at this point less than 1 M. wide), a liostile lieet would enter the convergent fire of the 300 guns of the forts of the inner harbor. Some years ago surveys were made for a fort on ('oney Island, but were stopped after Maury's report to Congress, in which that skilful engineer said, "Were it possible for an enemy, with the greatest army that was ever led into battle by the greatest captain, to take the country by surprise, and to land on Long Island, .... and to be disembarking his last piece of artillery before he was discovered, the iierfection of our raih'oad and telegraph system is such as would enable the government, before he could reach the heights of Brooklyn, to have there in waiting, and ready to receive him, and beat him back to the sea, a force two to one greater than his, however strong." 4. The South Shore of Long Island. By the S. Side R. R., whose W. terminus, at the foot of S. 8th St., Brooklyn, is reached by ferry-boats from the foot of Grand St. and of Roosevelt St., N. Y., or by the Greeupoint horse-cars from Fulton Ferry, Brooldyn. Trahis run to Patch- ogue, the E. terminus, in 2^-3 hrs. Fare to Roekaway, 50c. ; Islip, $1.25; Patchogue, $1.50. Stations, Brooklyn ; Bushwick Avenue, 2 M. ; Berlin, 9 ; Jamaica, 10 ; Spring- field, llJ- ; Valley Stream, 16 (crossing of branch lines to Hempstead, and to Woodsburgh, 18 ; Far Roekaway, 21 ; Seaside House, 25) ; Pearsall's Corner, 18 ; Rockville Centre, 19 ; Merrick, 24 ; S. Oyster Bay, 28 ; Amityville, 31 ; Babylon, 86 ; Islip, 43 ; Patchogue, 54. ROCKAWAY BEACH. Rmte 4. 47 I The train is drawn from the station by a dummy-engine, and a loco- motive is attached at Bushwick Ave. To the r. of Glendale station is j Cypress Hills Cemetery (see page 42). The train passes the Green Hills, and soon reaches Jamaica (see Route 5). From Jamaica the line runs S. E. over broad alluvial plains, and beyond the hamlet of Springfield the long earth-covered line of the Brooklj-n Aqueduct is crossed. From Val- ley Stream a branch R. R. runs N. E. to Hempstead (see Route 5) ; and another branch diverges to the S. W. to Rockaway Beach. Near Woods- burgh is the *Woodsburgh FavUion, a new smd spacious summer-hotel, with cottages connected. The Neptune House is smaller. A short dis- tance beyond is Far Rockaway, a small handet with several beach-hotels, the best of which are the Atlantic, United States, Pavilion, and Natioiuil. Tliis was formerly the most fashionable of the N. Y. beaches, and is re- gaining much of its old poj^ularity. The surf-bathing has been much im- proved by the Avashing away of the sand-bar which formerly fronted the beach ; and wild ducks and bluefish are successfully sought in the vicinity. To the W. is Rockaway Beach, a long and narrow sandy peninsula which runs 8 M. W. between the ocean and Jamaica Bay, a broad inlet which encloses several marshy islands. On this strand the Rockaway Indians formerly, made much wampum. Near the end of the beach the Bristol was wrecked in 1835, and 77 lives were lost. Surf-bathing is obtained on the S. side of the beach, and still- water bathing on the N. During the summer many visitors come here by means of the horse-cars from Fulton Ferry to E. New York, and a dummy-train thence to Canarsie (3^ M.), whence steamboats cross Jamaica Bay to the beach in 6 - 8 M. The prin- cipal hotels on the beach are HavimeVs and the Seaside, at the latter of which (4 M. from Far Rockaway) the branch R. R. ends. The main line passes E. from Valley Stream by Pearsall's Corner to Rockville Centre, S. of which is Near Rockaway and Hempstead Bay, abounding in islands (on one of which the Mexico was wrecked in 1837, and 116 lives were lost). The train now traverses wide plains, through which flow prolific trout-streams (preserved), and passes several small hamlets. *S'. Oyster Bay is near the bay of that name, and has 2 hotels; and Amity ville {South Side House; Ketcham House) is near the W. end of the Great South Bay. Babylon {Lagrange House; American; Savipwanis) is a comfortable village built on 2 intersecting streets, and famous for its fishing (10 tons of fish are sometimes sent to N. Y. in a single day). \ M. S. are the broad waters of the Great S. Bay ; and stages run from the station to the landing (1 M.), whence a steamboat crosses several times daily to Fire Island (8 M. S. E.)- This beach occupies the W. end of that remarkable peninsula of sand-dunes which extends for nearly 40 M. to the N. E., with a width of but a few rods. It shelters the broad estuaries of Great S. Bay, Moriches Bay, and Shiunecock Bay ; 48 Routes. FIRE ISLAND. and is joined to tlie mainland by the isthmus of Quogue Neck, about 35 M. from Fire Ishiud. This vast strand is one of the most Ion el j' and soli- tary places on the coast, but affords good bathing (surf or still-water), and a large fleet of pleasure-boats is kept near the hotels. The exciting sport of bluerishiiig is m\ich in vogue oft" the inlet and in the Bay. The * Surf House (500 guests) is a large and fashionable hotel ; and the Old Doviiny House is smaller but comfortable. Near these hotels is the Fire Island Light, a revolving light on a tower 150 ft. high, visible for 19 M. • at sea. This is one of the most important lights on the coast for in and out bound vessels, from its relation to N. Y. Bay. Numerous wrecks have occiu-red on this strand, in one of which Margaret Fuller, Countess d'Ossoli, was lost (1S50). Beyond Babylon the lino passes the villas of Bay Shore (seat of the Olympic Club) and Islip Centre, and reaches Islip (* Painlian ; Still in- werVs), a pleasant village in a fruit-producing district, and near the trout- ponds and Hue club-house of the Sportsmen's Club. Islip is much visited in summer, and has several pretty villas near the Great S. Bay. The hotels on Fire Island Beach are seen on the S. The train now passes the hamlets of Oakdale, Sayville (1,200 inhabitants ; 4 churches, several sum- mer boarding-houses), and Bayport, and reaches the present tei'minus of the R. R. at Patchogue {S. Side Hotel eimi Hoe's Hotel, S2.50 a day; and several boarding-houses at § 8- 12 a week). Tliis is a busy village of 3,000 inhabitants, manufactimng rope, paper, and flour, and is nearly 1 M. from the Great S. Bay. Trout and perch are found in the ponds; larger fish aboimd in the Bay; and oysters and clams are found in large quantities. 4 M. S. across the Bay is Watch Hill, on Fire Island Beach, 12-15 M. N. E. of Fire Island Light: ami 4 M. N. of Patohogue is Mcdford, on the L. I. R. 11. Stages run 4 >I."E. from Patehogne to Moriches and South Haven, passing Bellport, a iileasant village on Heliport Bay, with numerous boarding-houses (;? 7 - 10 a week). Across the Bay and near the hamlet of :Mastic are the remains of Fort George, a Tory post which was attacked iu 17S0 by Tallmage's light dragoons. The Ameri- cans burst through the stockade late at iiiglit, and assailed the redoubt on 3 sides, shouting, " Washington and Glory." TheTory garrison, numbering 300 men, sur- rendered unconditionally, and was deported into Conn. 5. Long Island. The North and East Shores. By the Long Island R. R. and its bran(!hes, whose W. terminus is at Hunter's Point (above Brooklyn), and is reached by ferry-boats from James Slip and from 34th St., N. Y. Trains nm to Greenport.'the E. terminus, in 4-4^ hi-s. Fare to Hempstead, 50c.; Huntington, 95e. ; Riverhead, §;i.30; Greenport, $2.75; Sag Harbor, §2.75. Stations, Himter's Point ; Woodside, 3 M. ; Winfield, 4 ; Jamaica, 10 (Brook- lyn Central Branch to E. New York) ; Queens, 13 ; Hyde Park, IG^ ; Mineola, 19 (branch lines to Hempstead, 21 J ; Roslyn, 2.;^; Glenhead, 25^; Glen Cove, 27?; and Locust Valley) ; Westbury, 22 ; Hieksyille, 25 (Northport Branch to Syosset, 29 : Huntington, 34^ ; Northport, 40 ; St. Johnsland, 45 : Smithtown, 4S| ; St. James, 51^ ; Setauket, 56^ ; and Port Jetlerson, 59) ; Jerusalem, 28 ; Farraingdale, 1 1 JAMAICA. Route 5. 49 ; Deer Park, 36 ; Brentwood, 41 ; N. Islip, 42i ; Lakeland, 4S ; Holbrook, 50 ; Medford, 54 ; Bellport, 55^ ; Yaphank, 59 ; Manor, G5 (divergence of Sag Harbor Branch to Moriches, 70 ; Speonk, 73 ; W. Hamjjton, 75 : Quogue, 78 ; Good Ground, 83 ; Soutliampton, 90 ; Bridgehampton, 90 ; and Sag Harbor, 100) ; Riverhead, 73 ; Janiesport, 78 ; Mattituck, 82 ; Cutchogue, 85 ; Hermitage, 88 ; Southold, 90 ; Greeiiport, 94, Liong Island includes the 2 S. E. counties of the State of N. Y., and, ac- cording to Walt Whitman, has the form of a fish. It is 140 M. long, contains 1,680 square M., and has (exclusive of Brooklyn) 144,210 inhabitants. On the N. is Long Island Sound ("the American Mediterranean"), which is 25 M. broad at its greatest width, and is the chief avenue of commerce and travel between N. Y. and the Eastern States. It is thought that when the obstructions at Hell Gate are removed, N. Y. City will change front to the E., and the European commerce will enter the port by way of the Sound. The island, at its W. end, shelters N. Y. Harbor, and at the E. end breaks into a chain of narrow ]ienin- sulas and islands. On the S. is a continuous line of broad lagoons, separated from the ocean by narrow sand-bars. The Soil is an alluviiil saiidy loam, for the , most part level, and very productive when fertilized. The pojiulation (outside of Bi'ooklyn) is mostly agricultural and myritime, and supjilics tiie metropolis with great quantities of fruit and vegetables, fish, oysters, and clams. The island is well served by lines of railroad and steamboats^ and contains many favorite sea- side resorts. There were 13 tribes of Indians resident here, most of whom were engaged in ; the manufaeturc of wampum. The Montaulcs were the most formidable, and waged frequent wars with tlic Tequots on the mainland. Tlie Euroi)ean occupa- tion was commenced early in the 17th century, by the Puritans on the E.,aiid the Dutch on the W. The former annexed their insular towns to Connecticut ; but after the British conquest of N. Y. (in 1664) they joined the latter pnnince. The island was held by the British ainiy tlirougliout the Revolution, unmolested save by forays made in whale-bonts irom tlie Conn, coast. The comparative mildness of the climate and tlie cheapness of tlie soil have induced many settlers to locate here since the completion of the railroad system. Pas.sing out through Hunter's Point (Long Island City), the train runs by Woodside, witli its embowered villas, and Wwjidd, where the Flush- ing and N. Side R. R. crosses tlie present route. Station, Jamaica {Rcni- sen House ; Union), a pleasant and prosperous village in the midst of a district of market-gardens. It has 3,791 inhabitants, a new town-hall, 3 weekly papers, 7 churches, and several academies. Jamaica was formerly the seat of the Jameko Indians, and was settled by men of New England in 1656, under permission from the Dutch authorities at N. Y. The name of Rusdorp was given to the village ; and during the pestilence at N. Y., in 1702, the government of the province was located here. The S. Side R. R. (Route 4) passes through this vilLige ; and the Brooklyn Central Brancli R. R. runs W. to Clarenceville, Woodhaven, Union Course (the race-course here has been discontinued), Cypress Avenue (with Cj^ress Hills Cemetery to the N.), and E. New York. Horse-cars also run to E. New York (connecting for Canarsie and Rockaway, and for Fulton Ferry). The low ridge called the Backbone of Long Island is seen on the 1., as the train passes E. by Queens and the level commons of Hyde Park to Mineola, the county-seat. A branch line runs 2^ M. S. to Hempstcad{2 hotels), a place of 2,316 inhabitants, situated on the great Hempstead Plains, which are 15 M. long and 4 M. wide. 7,000 acres on the Plains were bought by A. T. Stewart, and a R. R. Avas built thence to Brooklyn, with intent to found a residence-city for the working-people of N. Y. Hempstead was settled in 1643 by a Puritan church from AVeathers- lield, Conn. Its leader was Rev. Richard Denton, of whom Cotton Mather said, " His well-accomplished mind in his lesser body was an Iliad in a nutshell." A branch of the S. Side R. R. leads S. from Hempstead to Rockaway Beach. The Glen Cove Branch runs N. from Hempstead to Koslyii (Mansion House), a pleasant village at the head of Hempstead Harbor. In this vicinity is Cedar- 3 D 50 Route b. OYSTER BAY. Dicre, the home of tlie venerable poet and .ioumalist, William Cnllen Bryant. S. E. of Roslyn is Harbor Hill, the highest summit on L. 1.(319 ft), whence are obtained i>'leasant views ovci' the Sound; and a few M. N. W., ou Manhasset Neck, is SamW Point, with a quiet summer hotel. In this township (N. Hemp- stead) a colony of people from Lynn, Mass., settled about 1640, but were speedily driven away by the Dutch. S. L. Mitchill, the scientist, and Willard Post, the eminent ]>hVsician, were natives of this town. From Roslyn, the train runs N. near Hempstead Harbor, to Glen Cove {*PainIio)i House, with broad piazzas fronting the water), the seat of a large starch-factory. Dr. Valentine Mott was a native of this village. There are many Quakei-s in the vicinity, and the shores of the harbor are nuich visited in summer. The present terminus of the Gleu Cove Branch is at Locust Valley, 4 M. N. E. of Glen Cove. Beyond Mineola, the L. I. R. R. runs N. E., hy the dairy-lands of Westbury, to Hicksville. To the N. is Jericho, Avliich was bought of the Indians, in 1650, by Robert, the brother of Roger Williams. Here Elias Hicks, the Quaker schismatic, lived and preached from ]771 to 1830. He rode 10,000 M. on his missionary circuits, and preached over 1,000 times, and was an opponent of war and slavery. The Norlliport Branch nms from Hicksville N. E. to Syosset, whence stages run to Oyster Bay and Cold Spring (* Wamoepck Jlou^e), a pretty village on Cold Spring Harbor. This deep inlet from L. I. Sound is much visited in summer ; and its best hotel is * LaurcUon Hall, a new and costly house, with 100 rooms, situated on a wooded hill overlooking the water (reached ]jy steam- boat from Pier 37 E. R., at 4 P. m.). Many farm-houses about Syosset Bay take summer boarders at moderate prices. Lloyd's Neck, a high and far-viewing peninsula facing the Sotnid, was bought of the Sachem Ratiocan in l(i54, and was formed into the manor of Queen's Village. It was fortified by 11. e British in the Revolution, and the Duke of Clarence (afterward King AVilliam IV.) was an officer in the garrison. Here was the head-quarters oi the Boaid of Associated Loyalists, whose irregular troops fought all along the Sound with tlie Connectic-ut whale-boat men. In July, 1781, Count Barras sent 3 Frencli frigates from Newjjort to attack tlie fort, then garrisoned by 800 men. The naval bombardment was ineffectual, the colunm of troops (under Baron dc Angely) which assaidted the works was repulsed, and the expedition returned to Newport. In 1778-0, Simcoe's Queen's Rangers occupied and fortified Oyster Bay ; and later in tlic same year the Americans attacked Lloyd's Neck at night, carried the works, and led the garrison (500 men) captive t<< Connecticut. In 1G72, George Fox jTeached from a large rock, which is still shown, in Oyster Bay village. This idace was the boundary between the Dutch and English colonies" (as estaT)lishcd by the Treaty of Hartford, ui 1C50), and was settled in 1653 by a jiomadic Pilgrim church from Sandwich, Majis., the land having been purchased frr)m Assiapum, Sachem of the Matinecocks. Near Oyster Bay (in 1776) was captured Cai)t. Nathan Hale of Congress's Own Regi- ment (Conn, line), who had been sent by Washington to examine the British camps and works at Brooklyn. He was executed the next day as a spy, and, though but 21 years of age, met his fate bravely, his last words being, "I only regret that I have but one life to give for my country." His farewell letters to his friends were destroyed by the British ]>rovost-marshal, "that the rebels should not know they had a man in their army who could die with so much firmness." The train passes N. E. from Syosset to Huntington, wliich was founded in 1654, and was fortified in 1782 by Thompson's Royal Dragoons. Here were born B. Y. Prime, the poet, and N. S. Prime, the divine, whose sons, S. Ircnseus and William C. Prime, have attained high ranks in their RONKONKOMA LAKE. Routed. 51 respective departments of literature. The village is some distance N. of the station, and has 2,433 inhabitants, 6 churches, and several reputable schools. It is pleasantly situated on Huntington Harbor, one of the deep and irregular inlets which open on L. I. Sound. Station, North - port {Northport House; Washington), a sequestered village at the head of a deep and hill-environed harbor, much visited in summer. Ship- building is the chief industry. N. of St. Johnsland station is St. John's Church, a printing-office, and 13 other buildings, forming an Episcopal charitable establishment which pertains to St. Luke's Hospital, of N. Y. City. Smithtoion station is N. of the village (foimded in 1665, by Richard Smith, a vetei-an of Cromwell) ; and St. James is on Stony Brook Harbor. Near Smithtown Bay was the Tory Fort Slongo, which was stormed at dawn, Oct. 10, 1781, by 150 American troops. The train now passes Setauket (whose first pastor was the first American-born graduate of Harvard) and stops at Port Jeiferson (large summer-hotel), a ship-building village with 3 churches and 1,500 inhabitants. A steam ferry-boat crosses the Sound to Bridgeport, Conn., twice daily. Tlie trend of the coast E. from Port Jefferson is followed for many miles by a highway, which passes several obscure marine hamlets. Beyond Hicksville the main line of the L. L R. R. runs S. E. by Jeru- salem and the sandy j^lains of Faiuiiingdale, then turns to the E. by a line of hills and passes Deer Park and Brentwood, in the thuily populated town of Huntington. On the 1. are the West and the Dix Hills. From N. Islip stages run S. to Islip (see page 48) in 4-5 M. The train now crosses the level brush plains to Lakeland, which is 1 M. S. of Ronbm- koma Lake, a pretty sheet of fresh water among the forests. There are several summer residences on the shores, and the sailing and perch-fishing are good. The Lake House is of good repute. The T^ake is 1 M. in diameter, "of singular transparency and wonderful depth," and is bordered by a bcacli of white sand. It has no inlet or outlet ; and ri' es and falls every 4 years. To the S. extends the town of Islip, which was formerly densely populated by the Patchojjue and Secatogue Indians, who were engaged in the )nanufactnre of wampum (the money of the abcn-iginal Americans ; consisting of Ihe thick blue part of sea-clam shells, ground into the form of bugle beads, and strung u])on hempen cords a foot long). The town was settled and named by immigrants from Islip, in old Oxfordshire ; and was incorporated in 1700. Beyond Lakeland the train passes the rural hamlets of Holbrook, Waverly, and Medford. From Bellport station stages run S. 3 M. to Bellport (see jiage 48). At Yaj^hank the line crosses the Connecticut River (of L. I.) and traverses the ''Wild District." Stages run S. W. from Yaphank (and from Manor also) to Centre Moriches {Ocean House; Moriches; Long Island; Baldivin), a pleasant village wiiich is mtich visited in summer. Large quantities of fish, crabs, and wild fowl are 52 Routes. SAG HARBOR. sent thence to N. Y. Sail-boats run regularly across the Bay to the outer beach, where the Havens House is situated and surf-bathing is practised. There are numerous summer boarding-houses in Moriches and across the Tenillo River at E. Moriches (.$6-10 a week). Beyond Yaphank the train traverses the Wild District to Manor. The Sag Harbor Branch runs S. E. from Manor to Moriches (stages to the bay-side Moriches), Speonk (famous for the fine eels which are taken in the adjacent waters), W. Hampton^ and Quogue, where there are several large boarding-houses. The lower hamlet is surrounded on three sides by salt water, and is on the isthmus which joins the great Fire Island Beacli to the mainland. The Shinnecock Hills are on the 1. and Shinnecock Bay is on the r., as the train passes near Good Groxmd and the lofty lighthouse of Ponquogue. At Canoe Place the line traverses a narrow isthmus between the Sliinnecock and Great Peconic Bays, and reaches the remote Peninsula of Montauk. The Canoe Place clams are esteemed as the best in the N. Y. markets. Southampton is a sequestered marine village near the ocean. It was scttlfil in 1040 by a company from Lynn, Mass.. wlio had been driven by the I")utoh from the E. part of L. I. ; and in 1644 it was annexed to Conuectieut. Tlie first minister of this theocratic colony was Abraham Pierson, who learned the language of the L. I. Indians and prea(;hed to them. According to Cotton Mather, he was " a true child of Abraham, and is now safely lodged in the Sinu Abraha." His son was the first President of Yale College. Near Canoe Place, W. of Southampton, Paul Ciilfee is buried, hard by his ancient chui'ch. He was a negro-Indian half-breed fi-om the Elizabeth Islands ; acquired wealth by sea- ftirijig pursuits ; devoted his life to the elevation of the two downtrodden colored races ; and was one of the founders of Sierra Leone. On a long peninsula W. of Southampton dwells the Shinnecock tribe of Indians, a peaceful Christian clan whose young men make daring sailors and whale fishermen. Like most of the tribes along the Atlantic, they are ranked as an alien community, and are not liable to the duties of voting and paying taxes. The peninsula was sold by the sachems to the town in 1703 ; and was then leased back to the tribe for the term of 1,000 years, at an annual rent of one ear of corn. The train passes Mecox Bay and Bridgeham]iton, and runs N. E. to Sag Harbor (* E. End House), a village of 1,723 inhabitants, with a bank and 3 weekly papers. It is situated at the head of Northwest Bay, amid line marine scenery which has been described by Cooi^er in the "Sea Lions." Sag Harbor was settled by Mass. fishermen in 1730, and was made a port of entry in 1784. At an early date whales were killed by boats from the beaches in this vicinity ; and in 1841 Sag Harbor had a whaling fleet of 43 vessels (40 of which Avere ships). 1,025 mariners were employed on these vessels ; the voyages were made to the S. Atlantic and Pacific, and averaged 16 months in duration ; and in 1841 there were brought into this port 6,726 barrels of sperm, 58,827 of oil, and 482,110 lbs. of whalebone. The gold-fever in California paralyzed this maritime industry, and in 1870 there were Init 4 whaling-vessels owned here. For 25 years the village has been decadent ; but since the construction of the R. R. (1869) it has revived somewhat, and is now miich visited in summer. In May, 1777, 130 Americans crossed L. I. Sound from New Haven in whale-boats, and surprised by night the British garrison at this point. The military stores here collected and 12 vessels in the harbor were burned, and 90 royalist soldiers were led into captivity. In 1813 a boat expedition from the British fleet, which MONTAUK POINT. Routed. 53 lay in Gardiner's Bay througliout the War of 1812, attempted to cut out some vessels from before the village ; liut the invaders were driven off by the fort and the militia. Steamboats run from Pier 16, E. R. , N. Y. City, at 5 p. m. on Tues., Thurs., and Sat., to Orient, Greenport, New Suffolk, and Sag Harbor, — returning at 4 p. ai. on the alternate days (the fare is .-iJl.oO). The steamer Sunshine runs from Hartford and New London (Conn.) to Greenport and Sag Harbor, leaving Hartford on Tues., Thurs., and Sat., and returning on alternate days. East Hampton is 7 M. S. E. of Sag Harbor (daily stages), and 1 M. from the sea. It was founded in 1648 by men from Essex Comity, Mass., who protected the Indians from the fierce assaults of hostile tribes. From 1657 to 1667 it was a part of Connecticut ; and in June, 1775, nearly every male inhabitant (253 in number) signed an agreement to support the Con- tinental Congress. The village is one of the most quaint and sequestered on the Atlantic coast ; and has gray old colonial houses, windmills, and a church which was built in 1652, rebuilt in 1717, and remodelled in 1822. Lyman Beech er, " the father of more brains than any other man in Amer- ica," was pastor here from 1798 to 1810 ; and under his influence the street was planted with the elm-trees Avhich are now the pride of the vil- lage. Summer boarders are taken at several houses. S. E. are several ponds of fresh water ; S. is Napeague Beach (surf-bathing) ; and N. E. is the handet of Amagansett. Montauk Point is 18 - 20 M. N. E. of East Hampton, and is reached by a lonely road running along the line of Napeague Beach. The E. part of the town (including 9,000 acres) is un unfenced moor, and is used for herding cattle. On this tract is the reservation where dwells the poor renuiant of the Montauk In- dians under the Sachem Pharaoh. Long Island was, in the older days, the mint of the American Indians, and most of its tribes were engaged in the manufacture of wampum. The Montauks were the bravest and most powerful of the island tribes, and waged fierce wars with the continental Indians. The Sachem Wyan- dance ruled about the middle of the 17th century, and was an able and sagacious chief, who welcomed the English colonists and became their allies. There are many quaint legends connected with this district. Beyond Amagansett the road traA^erses for many M. the narrow sandy neck between the ocean and Napeague Bay, where millions of menhaden are caught yearly, and are used for oil and manure. A revenue-cutter cruises off and on in this vicinity to prevent smug- gling ; and 5-6 M. to the N. Gardiner's Island is seen. The most easterly point of L. I. is nearly insulated by Fort Pond, and is partly occupied by Great Pond, a sheet of fresh water covering 500 acres. On the extreme E., situated on a bluff over the sea, is the lofty tower which was built in 1860 for the Montauk Light, it is an intense fixed light, with 2 revolving glasses, and a white flash, which is visible for 19^ M. This superb n\echanism was sent by the French Government to the N. Y. Crystal Palace, and was afterward presented by France to the United States. The * view from the gallery is one of the finest on the coast, and includes Block, Gardiner's, Shelter, Fisher's, and the Gull Islands, the shores of Conn, and R. I., and a broad sweep of the ocean. Visitors may be accommodated at the small cottage near the lighthouse if in extremis; and snnuner camps are sometimes made in the vicinity. A pleasant excxu-sion may be had by running down in a sail-boat from Sag Harbor by Gardiner's Island and Napeague Bay to Montauk Point. '* Ultima Thule of this ancient isle, Against whose breast the everlasting surge Long traveUing on, and ominous of wrath Forever beats." Mks. Sigoukney. 54 Routed. SHELTER ISLAND. The train runs near the Peconic River to the prosperous village of Riverhead {Griffin Hotel; Suffolk; L. I.), with 3 churches, 2 high- schools, and the county buildings of Suffolk County. The surrounding country is pleasant, and a few deer and trout (protected) are foimd in the vicinity. The line now lies near the N. shore of Peconic Bay, through the populous farming district which is served by the station of Janiesport. Station, Mattituck {Mattituck House; Odell House), among the low wooded hills between Peconic Bay and L, I. Sound, and well served with crabs from an estuary to the N. JVew Suffolk lies to the S. E. on Great Peconic Bay, and is a summer resort. Cutcliogue is 1 M. N. W. of the pleasant village of that name, which is much favored by city visitors. Beyond Hermitage (otherwise called Peconic) the train stops at Southold {Southold Hotel), a quiet and cultured hamlet which is near the Sound on the N. and the Bay on the S. Fishing, sailing, and driving are tlie sum- mer amusements here, 2 - 3 M. N. on Horton's Point is a fixed white light which is visible 16^ M. Crossing an arm of Greenport Harbor, the train reaches the terminal station at Greenport {Clark's Hotel ; Peconic ; Wyandmik), a thriving village with 1,819 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 weekly papers. The roadstead is deep and well sheltered (by Shelter Island); and this was formerly one of the chief whaling ports. The cod- lishery employs several vessels ; and a large fleet (including also steamers) is used in the menhaden fishery. There are 17 factories near the village where the oil is extracted, after which the refuse animal matter is used to fertilize the fields. All manner of aquatic sports are practised by the numerous city guests who make Greenport their summer home. (Steam- ers to N. Y. and Hartford, see page 53. ) The beaches are of sand, aff'ord- ing still- water bathing ; and wild ducks are successfully hunted in their season. 9 M. E. (daily stages) down the narrow peninsula is Orient Point, with its great * summer-hotel (300 guests); and at Orient Village are 4 boarding-houses ($ 8 - 10 a week). Plum Gut is a narrow strait separating Orient Toint from Plum Id., which cov- ers 809 acres, and was bought of the Corchoug Indians in 1659. To the N. E. are the small Gull Ids., one of v.iiicli has a lighthouse tower 62 ft. high. Farther N. IE., across the deep channel called the Race, and within 4 M. of New London, Conn, (see Osgood's Ne^v Enrjlancl), is Fisher's hiand, 9 M. long and 1 M. wide, containing 4,000 acres, and used for grazing and hay crops. It was named Vis- sher's Id. by Adrian Bloclv, in 1614, Avas bought by Gov. Winthrop in 1644, and still remained in the Winthrop family in 1843. Shelter Id. (ferry from Green- port) is a picturesque and irregular-shored island 6 by 4 M. iu extent, with lolling hills, fresh ponds, and numerous deep inlets. It is being opened up as a sunnner retreat, and is the seat of a large Methodist camji-meeting ground. Shelter Id. was the home of the Manhasset Indians, and early became an appanage of the Earl of Stirling. Settlements were made in 1652 ; and in 1673, when, after the Dutch re-conquest of N. Y. City, the 3 Puritan towns on the E. of L. I. refused to acknowledge their authority, a Dutch fleet took this island, but was checked from further operations by the crossing of troops from Conn. In 1764 George Whitelield ]iveached here with such success that he was constrained to ask, " And is Shelter Island become a Patnios ? " The toAvn was incorporated in 1730, and in FLUSHING. Route 6. b5 1870 had 686 inhabitants. 8 M. to the E. is Gardiner's Id., containing 3,300 acres of uiidulatinj,' land. It was the Monchonock of tlie Indians, wlio sold it to Lyon Gardiner in 163'J for some rum and blankets, a gun, and a large black dog. Here Gardiner, a veteran of Crom well's and the Loav Countries Wars, made the first FiUglish settlement within the present State of N. Y. In 1640 the adjacent peninsula of Southold (the Indian Yennecock) was settled by men of New Haven and a migratory church from Hingham, and was governed by the Mosaic code, under Rev. John Youngs, one of the " 77 first ministers of New England, that first enlightened the dark regions of America with their ministry" (CorroN Mather). Shelter Island is now a favorite place of summer rest. The * Manhanset Il(.)usi; is a large and picturesque summer-hotel, in a park of 200 acres at the N. end of the island, near the quiet Bering Harbor. There are many pleasant drives through the rich country beyond, by groves of noble old oaks, and near deeply recessed arms of the sea. Broad views over land and water are alfoi'ded from the liills. Much water-fowl is to be found in the beaches and uplands, and fish abound in the bays and inlets. Shelter Island is easily reached by the steam- ferry from Greenport (1 M. distant), which connects with the trains and boats at that village. Oapt. Kidd was a bold N. Y. mariner, who was sent out with an armed vessel to chase the pirates from the coast. He succeeded, and sailed on the Advenhire with 150 men, to chastise the freebooters of the E. Indies. But after rounding the Cape of Good Hope he turned pirate himself, and cruised from the Red Sea to Malabar, then crossed the Indian and Pacific Oceans, rounded Cape Horn, and swept the W. Indies. He was captured in Boston, and was executed in London in 1701. Thousands of visionary men have made excavations all along the N. At- lantic coast in hope to find treasures that Kidd had buried ; and but a few years since costly operations to this end were carried on at the Dunderberg Mt., far up the Hudson River. Kidd landed on Gardiner's Id. after his predatory circuit of the world, and buried vast treasures, of which 75 ounces of gold, 633 ounces of silver, and large quantities of rare jewels and precious stones were recovered in 1699 by the Earl of Bellomont, Gov. of Mass. 6. Long Island. The Northwest Shore. steamboats. The Arrowsmith leaves Pier 24, E. R., and 33d St., at 9.15 A. m. for Whitestone, Sands' Point, Sea-Cliflf Grove, and Glen Cove, returning at 1.45 p. M. ; and leaves Pier 24 at 5 p. m. for Whitestone, Great Neck, and Port Wash- ington, returning early next morning. The Seawaiihaka leaves Pier 24, E. R., at 4 p. M. for Whitestone, Fort Schuyler, Great Neck, Sea Cliff, Mott's Dock, Sands' Point, Glen Cove, Glenwood, and Roslyn, returning earlv next morning. The D. R. Martin leaves Pier 37, E. R., and 33d St., at 4 p. m. for City Id., BayA-ille, Lloyd's Neck, Laurelton, Huntington, and Cold Spring, returning early next morning. The Osseo leaves Peck Slip, E. R., at 10.50 a. m. for Flushing and Col- lege Point ; and at 4 for Unionportand College Point. The Flushinq and N. Side R. R. runs from Himter's Point to Woodside, 3 M.; Winfield, 4 ; Newtown, 5 ; Flushing, 8 ; College Point, 9 ; Whitestone, 11 ; Bay- side, 11 ; Great Neck, 14. The railroad is the more expeditious route, but the steamboats will be preferred by tourists, as showing the interesting shores of L. I. Sound. Pas.sengers on these vessels can return to N. Y. the same day. Flushing is a cultured and wealthy village at the head of Flushing Bay, with 6,223. inhabitants, 8 churches, and 3 newspapers. It is famous for its academies, one of which (Erasmus Hall) is the oldest in the State ; and for its great tree-nurseries and botanical gardens. Many N. Y. mer- chants have villas near the village ; and the surrounding district has sev- eral pleasant drives. In the N. part is a monument to the soldiers who fell in the Secession War. Flushing was settled by English Quaker 5C) Route?. NEW YORK TO VERMONT. exiles from Holland in 1G45, and was then named Vlissingen. The Cen- tral R. R. of L. I. passes from Hunter's Point through Flushing to Stewart's Purchase on Hempstead Plains and Bahylon. College Point is a new village of 3,(552 inhabitants, situated near the point on which St. Paul's College was founded, Whitestone {Whitestone Hotel) is a manufacturing village, near the Sound. Near Great Neck Landing is the Oriental House, a pleasant summer resort ; and on Sands' Point is an- other retired and fashionable hotel. On Wilkins Point new U. S. fortifi- cations are being erected, which, ■s\ith Fort Schuyler (318 guns) on the opposite shore, command the entrance to N. Y. from L. I. Sound. The steamboats for Roslyn, Cold Spring, the Soimd ports, and the Boston lines, after passing up the East River (see page 35), turn to the E. above Astoria and pass through Hell Gate (8 M. from the Battery and 8 M. from Throgg's Neck), with Ward's Id. on the 1. Woolsey's Point is then rounded on the r., and the boat passes Riker's Id. (a rendezvous for troops during the Secession War), Avith Flushing Bay opening to the S. E. Rmuiing now between College Point and Whitestone on the r. and the Westchester shores on the 1., the massive fortifications of Fort Schuyler and Wilkins Neck are passed, and the course is laid N., with the hills of Great Neck on the r. and Throgg's Neck on the 1. Oft' Pelham Neck are seen City Id. and Hart's Id. (with its correctional institutions). Passing a small cluster of islets on the 1. and Sands' Point lighthouse on the r., the steamer enters the broader waters of the Somid. 7. New York to Vermont The Harlem Route. The N. Y. and Harlem R. R. was completed in 1852, and runs N. from N. Y. along the borders of New England to Chatham, on the Boston and Albany R. R. (l-'8 M.), whence the Harlem Extension R. R. runs N. to Rutland, Vermont (108 M.). Tlie morning mail-train from N. Y. connects through to Rutland. The line traverses a highly picturesque region, jtassing on the W. side of the Salisbury and Berkshire Hills, and ascending the valleys of the Green Mts. Fare to White riains. 70c. ; to Bedford, $1.20 ; to Pawling, S 2 ; to Millerton, $2.50; to Chat- ham Four Corners, $ 2.75. Stations, Grand Central Depot ; Harlem, 4 M. ; Mott Haven 4| ; Melrose, C ; Morrisania, 7 ; Tremont, 8 ; Fordham, 10 ; Williams' Bridge. 11 (divergence of the N. Y. and New Haven R. R.) ; Woodlawn, 13 ; W. Jit. Vernon, 14 ; Bronxville, 16 ; Tuckahoe, 17 ; Scarsdale, 20 ; Hartsdale, 21 ; White Plains, 23 ; Kensico, 26 ; Unionville, 29 ; Pleasantville, 31 ; Chappaqua, 33 ; Mt. Kisco, 38 ; Bedford, 40 ; Katonah, 43 ; Goldeu's Bridge, 45 (divergence of N. Y. and Lake Mahopac R. R. to Somers Centre, 49 ; Lake. Mahopac, 52^) ; Purdy's, 47 ; Croton Falls, 49 ; Brewster's 53 ; Dykeman's, 56 ; Towner's, 59 ; Patterson, 61 ; Pawling, 65 ; S. Dover. 71 ; Dover Plains, 78 ; Wassaie, 82 ; Amenia, 86 ; Sharon, 88 ; Millerton, 93 ; Mt. Riga, 97 ; Boston Corners, 100 ; Copake, 106 ; Hillsdale, 110 ; Craryville, 112 ; Martindale, 116 ; Philmont, 120 ; Ghent, 126 ; Chatham Four Corners, 128 (the Boston and Albany R. R. diverges to Albanv, 152 M. from N. f .). Harlem Extension R. R. stations, from N. Y. to Chatham, 133 M. ; Rider's Mill, 139 ; New Lebanon, 146 ; Lebanon Springs, 155 ; N. Stephentown, 159 ; Centre Berlin, 162 ; Berlin, 167 ; Petersburg, 172 ; Troy and Boston R. R. Junction, 175 ; E. Hoosick, 178 ; Bennington, 181 ; N. Bennington, 185 ; S. Shaftsbury, 187 ; iShafts- bury, 192 ; Arlington, 197 ; Sunderland, 200 ; Manchester, 206 ; E. Dorset^ 211 ; N. Dorset, 214 ; Danby & Mt. Tabor, 218 ; S. Wallingford, 223 ; Wallingford. 226 ; Clarendon, 230 ; Rutland, 236 (connecting with the Central Vermont R.R.). FORDHAM. Route 7. 57 The train passes out from the Grand Central Depot, and runs N. E. for 4 M., passing many fine buildings pertaining to the educational and chari- table interests of the city. On the 1. are seen the Central Park, Mt. Morris, and the distant heights of Fort Washington. A short distance beyond the broad Harlem Rivei-, the N. Y. Central & Pludson River R. R. diverges to the 1., and the train enters the rural districts which were recently annexed to N. Y. City. Mott Haven is the seat of extensive iron and steel works ; and from Melrose a short railroad leads S. E. to Port Morris, on Long Island Sound. To the W. is the site of the old Morris mansion. In 1670, Richard Morris, an oflBcer of Cromwell's army, bought 3,000 acres in this vicinity ; and in 1697 this estate was formed into the Manor of Morrisania by his son Lewis (chief-justice of N. Y. and N. J., and Gov. of N.J. , 1738-46). Here were bom Lewis Morris's sons, — Staats, a British general and M. P. ; Richard, chief-justice of N. Y, ; Gouverneur, one of the most eminent statesmen of N. Y. ; and Lewis, a signer of the Declaration of Independence (his 3 sons were brave officers of the Continental army ; his grandson was killed in the assault on Monterey ; a second grandson commanded the Mediterranean fleet in 1S02-3; and a great-grandson, Lewis O. Morris, colonel of the 113th N. Y.. was killed in the battle of Cold Harbor, Va.). Gen. Moreau, Louis Philippe of France, and many other eminent men, received the munificent hospitality of this mansion. A picturesque region, traversed by fine roads and dotted with villas, extends E. to the Sound. Near the Bronx River is the grave of Joseph Rodman Drake, a gifted poet (author of " The Culprit Fay "), who died at the age of 25, and to whose memory Fitz Greene Halleck wrote the lines beginning : — " Green be the turf above thee, Friend of my better days ; None knew thee but to love thee. None named thee but to praise." Tremont and Fordham, the next 2 stations, have each over 2,000 in- habitants. E. of Fordham station is St. John's College, a flourishing Jesuit institution, with several buildings on 20 acres of land, 10 profes- sors, 77 undergraduates, and 150 students in other departments. The St. Joseph Theological Seminary is located here. St. Mary's Church is a neat Gothic structure. Near this village are the mills and estates of the Lorillards ; on the N. is the Jerome Skating Pond ; and about 1| M. W. is * Jerome Park, a fine race-course imder the care of the American Jockey Club. The train now runs N. near tlie Bronx River, and 1 M. beyond Williams Bridge passes Woodlaimi Cemetery, a broad undulating tract of 400 acres, which is patronized by N. Y. City families (the R. R. runs special trains for fimerals). Among the many fine monuments here is the grave of Admiral Farragut, per- haps the foremost officer in the history of the U. S. Navy. He was born near KnoxviUe, Teun., in ISOl (of Balearic parentage), and was a midshipman on the Essex, in 181-' . when she was captured by 2 British frigates in Valparaiso Harbor. Thereafter, for 48 years, he commanded various vessels of the fleet, and on April 24, 1862, he led the squadron that passed the Rebel forts at New Orleans, de- stroyed the gunboats, silenced tlie batteries, and took the city. In the same year he attacked Vicksburg, and captured Coi-pus Christi, Sabine Pass, and Galveston. In l«6.j he blockaded the Mississippi from Vicksburg to New Orleans, and thus cut tlie Contederacy in two ; and co-operated in the capture of Vicksburg and Port Hudson, Aug. 5, 1864, he commanded the naval forces which passed through 3* 58 Route?. WHITE PLAINS. the fire of the Mobile forts, and aniiihilntod the powcifnl Rebel fleet in the har- liur. He leeeived the thanks t>t' L'ongi.'s.s in Due, ISGI ; was nuide Admiral in ISoG ; and in 1S07-8 was honored with tiiuniphal rei'eptions in the chief jiorts of the 3 continents of the Old World. He died at Purtsinouth, N. H., Aug. 14, 1870. The N. y. and yen- Jlarcn 11. 1!. diverges from above Williams Bridge, and ])asscs the thriving villages of Mt . Vernon (near a large farm-school nnder Lutheran Deaconesses) and Now Koclielle (7>'('/(A-.s' 7/o/(7). The latter jdace has many beautiful villas, ami near tne siR)re of the Sound is the Xtptune House. It was settled by Huguenot refugees in l(it»l, after the fall of La Hochelle, and the French language was long used here. The State of N. Y. granted a tract of land in this^ town to Thomas Paine,! on which a monument has been erected to his memory. Station, Mainaio)iecl:, "the place of rolling stones," near \\hich (Oct. 21, 1776) the Delaware and Maryland troops Vteat up tTie quarters of the Queen's Rangers and killed and captured SO men. Rye station is near the favorite liiic Beach (Ce- dar Grove House) on L. 1. Sound, whence remarkable mirages are sometimes seen. Port Chester (De Soto Uou.^i) is a nourishing village, with 5 churches and nearly 4,UUU inhabitants. Just beyond this station the train crosses tlie Dyram River and enters New England, passing on to New Haven, Hartford, Si)riughekl, Worces- ter, and Roston (ov to Roston by way of New Haven, New Lomlon, Stoningtou, and Rrovidence). See Osgood's New Enghiud. The Ilarleni train next crosses 2 and recrosses the Bronx River, passes the factories of Bronxvillc antl the great marble quarries of Tuckahoe, and continues on the E. of tlie Thirty Deer Ridge to Scarsdale. Vice-Presi- th'ut Tomiildns was a native of Scarsdale, and Cooper was a resident here. White Plains {Oravxiupuvi House) is a pleasant and thriving village, with 5 churches and the public buildings of Westchester County. Its site was covered with white balsam flowers, and hence the name was derived. To the N. and N. E. are St. Mary's Lake and Rye Pond, abounding in pickerel ; and S. W. of the station is Chattertou's Hill, where was fought the Battle of White Plains. After the Anglo-Hessian army had forced Washington to retire from Manhattan Island, he formed fortitied lines ak)ng the Bronx River from Fordham to White riains. Oct. 28, 1770, the hostile army, numbering LI.OOO men, advanced to at- tack the position at White Plains. Under cover of i.'0 guns, they thiew a bridge across the Bronx, and the light infantry and Hessian grenadiers attacked Chatter- ton's Hill. The Anu'rican artillery mowed down whole jilaloons of the assailants, and the Delawares, Alarylanders, and New-Yorkei-s held the hill in a hand-to-hand conllict. At last they were overwhelmed by numbers, and the militia were dis- persed by cavalry charges, uj^on whit-h the sorely i>ressed Continentals retired with their wounded and artillery to the lines about White Plains. Two days af- terward, Washington fell back to the fortified heights of North Castle, and Howe retired to Manhattan Island. Station, Kensico, between the pleasant highland towns of Mt. Pleasant and N. Castle. Upon the heights of the latter town, Washington led his weary army in retreat ; and on Mt. Misery (in the S. E.) the Huguenots from New Rochelle cut off and exterminated a war party of Indians. \ Thomas Paine was born in Enjrland. in 17.^7. and caino to America in 1774. Earlj- in 177(i he publislii'd II trait caJKil " Common Sense,' advociitiii!.' roinibliciin independence ; and in Dee. •' The Crisis ' was ijuhlisliod, be.cinning witli the words. '' Tliese are the times that try men s souls." This was read at tlie head of e\iMy Continental regiment, and aroused the drooping spirits ot the ariiiv and people. I'aino then filled several otiices in the I!. S., but went to France in ITiU, and" was elected to the National Convention. Alter a stormy lile in Euroiie, during whieh he attaeked ISurke in " The KiglUs of Man," and advocated atheism in "The Age of Keasivn," lie returned to New Koehelle in lSti2, and died there in ISOO. 10 years later, Wm. Cobliett removed his remains to England. ■2 When the train crosses the Bronx just beyond NVcjodlawn, it leaves N. Y. City, whose municipality includes (since recent annexations) the ;! former towns of Morrisania. W. !■ anus, and Kings Bridge. — bounded W. by the Hudson River, E. by the Bronx lliver, and N. by a line running due W. I'rom the lironz above Woodlawn. LAKE MAHOPAC. RoxtteJ. 59 Tliere are many pretty lakes in North Castle, and the Connecticut line is quite near Kensico. A picturesque road leads S. W. to Tarrj-town, on the Hudson. The line now leaves the Bronx Valley and ascends light grades to tlie hill-villages of Unionville and Pleasantville (the latter place is 1 M. E. of the railroad, ou the W. slope of Bear Ridge). Fox Hill is passed on the 1., and the train stops at Chappaqua, a rural village 3 M. S. E. of the Chap- paqua Sulphur Springs. Near tlie village is the farm where Horace Greeley was wont to seek rest and recreation when worn down by his labors. Horace Greeley was born at Anilierst, N. H., in ISll, and learned the printer's art at Poultney, Vt., })etweeu his loth and lS>th years. Going to New York in 1831. he started several newspapers (the Moni'nvi Post, Nenj Yorker, Jcjfersonian, and IjO(J- C'lhln) ; and in 1831 lie foinuled the A'nj'- York Tribune, which became one of the most powerful and spirited of tlie iiietr()i)olitan newspapers. It advocated the abolition of slavery, the elevation of tlic laboring classes, and the protection (by tarilf) of American manufactures. Mr. Greeley generally supported the measures of the Rpi)ul)lican party from its origin until iS72, altliough favoring a more ex- tended ajiinesty for the'Southern ytates. In 1872 lie was nominated as candidate for the Presidency by the Liberal Convention at (Jincinnati, and by the Democratic Convention at Baltimore. After a lung and bitter campaign. Grant was re-elected ; and soon after, worn out by toil, Mr. Greeley died near New Yorlt. He was eccentric in costume and manners, and h>ved the ([uiet seclusion of his farm at Chappao\ver of working miracles, and held that Christ's coming was not the fulfilment of " the desire of all nations, but that the second Divine advent must naturally be manife.-fted in that particular object, to wit, wornan, which is eminently the desire of all nations." The commonwealth covenant was accepted in 1795, and on Mother Ann's death the government was assumed by a liierarchy of 2 elders and 2 ekUvsios, called the Holy Lead. They remai. ed scluded in the church at New Lebanon, a;)|)ointed the minor cler.,x and supervised their Scrip- tures, consisting of the "Holy Laws" and "Order Eook," which were dictated by the Recording Angel. Unlike other sects, the Shakers claim that men may join their sect aftei death, anorts (see page 11 ; also the lists and time-tables suspended in the hotel-ottices). A pleasant excursion may be made by taking the day-boat as far as lludson (114 M.), and returning to New York by the express-train. The great steamboats of the through lines are the ni<;-st elegant river-boats in the world, and arc furnished with every appliance for the comfort of the traveller. Fare, s? 2 (exclusive of meals, which are well served at fixed prices) ; or, for the trip to West Point, Cornwall, or Newburgh and back, returning the same day, §1. Through tickets to Saratoga by this route, $3.50. The day-boats (,the C. Vihburd and Daniel D/'Cic) leave the foot of Vestry St., New York, at 8.30 a. m., and 23d St. 15 minutes later. They stop at Yonkers at 9.30, and connect in the Tappan Zee with the ferry-boat to Nyack and Tarrytown. West Point is reached at 11.30 ; Cornwall at 11.55 ; Newburgh at 12.15 p. M. ; Milton at 12.55 ; Poughkeepsie at 1.10 ; Rhinebeck at 2 ; Tivoli at 2.35 ; Catskill at 3.20 ; Hudson at 3.40 ; and Albany at G P. M. The HuLhoii River Division of the N. Y. Central R. R. may be preferred to the boats in Avinter or in stormy weather. Trains leave the Grand Central Depot, and pass through the lines of i)ublic and charitable buildings in the upper city, with the Central Park on the 1. Beyond the Hai'lem River they diverge from the Harlem R. R., and follow the river and Spuyteu Duyvil Creek to the Hudson, whose E. bank is traversed generally all tlie way to Albany. 10-12 trains daily leave the old station at the corner of 30th St. and 10th Ave. (reached by the Ele- vated .Railway from lower New York) and run to Tarrytown, i)assing the stations of Manhattan, 152d St., PV,rt Washington, Inv/ood, etc. The Montreal, Chicago, and Pacific express trains (from the Grand Central Depot) nui at the rate of 30-3(3 M. an hour, and make bxit few stops. They are chiefly composed of draw- ing-room cars ; and passengers who secure seats on the 1. side will have pleasant views of the river and its W. bank. Steam-ferries connect the line with the chief towns on the W. bank. Times and Fares. New York to Tarrytown, 1- 1^ hrs., 62c. ; to Poughkeepsie, 2i-3^ hrs., $1.83; to Hudson, 3.V-6hrs., $2.28; to Albany, 4^-7^ hrs., ^3.10, Stations. Grand Central Depot ; Spuyteu Duyvil, 11 M. ; Riverdale, 12 ; Mt. St. Vincent, 13 ; Yonkers, 14^ ; Hastings, 19 ; Dobbs' Ferry, 20 ; Irvington. 22 ; Tarryt(jwn (and Nyack), 25 ; Scarborough, 29 ; Sing Sing, 30 ; Croton, 34 ; Cruger's, 37 ; Montrose, 38 ; Peekskill, 41 ; Fort Montgomery, 45 ; Garrison's (West Point), 49 ; Cold Spring, 52 ; Cornwall Station, 54 ; Dutchess Junction, 57 ; Fishkill (Newburgh), 58 ; Low Point, 62 ; New Hamburgh, 64 ; Milton Ferry, 69 ; Pough- keepsie, 73; Hyde Park, 78; Staatsburgh, S3 ; Rhinebeck, 88; Barry town, 94; Tivoli, 98 ; Germantown, 104 ; Livingston, 107 ; Catskill Station, 109 ; Hudson, 114 ; Stockport, 118 ; Coxsackie, 121 ; Stuyvesant, 123 ; Schodack, 129 ; Castleton, 133 ; E. Albany, 141^ ; Albany, 142 ; Troy, 148. The Hudson River takes its rise in a lofty mountain-lake, 300 M. N. of N. Y. City, and, descending thence through the defiles of the Adirondacks, receives the waters of Sehroon Lake, and breaks through the I^uzerne Mts. in a series of long rapids. It passes through a tumultuous course until Troy is reached, where the ocean-tides are met. Below this point the stream is dec[) and quiet, and is the avenue of an immense commerce, chiefly in lumber, coal, stone, ice, manufactured goods, and Western grain (in great clusters of fi'eightcd canal-boats, drawn by towing-steamers). The passage of the river through the Appalachian mountain- system at the Highlands and the long and lofty trap-dike called the Palisades are remarkable for their scenic effect. Many travellers prefer the Hudson to the 13 ut I." ad li» of ue ns .-ill Il- ly 3tl Kl iie II, le IS ti, 3e a- !CI re 1- le a- le te n G2 of {^ Mts, n. I (Bci boat lists be 11 Yorl iiios tliec fixec retu The Yorl com Foil 12.5, Hui Ti boat and witl liar ■who leav vatc of J and 30- iug- viev tow; T. 2.V- Stat Vin( Tun 37 ; 49; (Ne- kee] Tiv( 114 133 T; Citj "wat rapi ocej ave) gOO( tow sysi rem THE PALISADES. Route 8. 63 Rhine ; and George "William Curtis says of it, " Tlie Danube has in part glimpses of such grandeur, the Elbe has sometimes such delicately pencilled effects ; but no European river is so lordly in its bearing, none flows in such state to the sea." The beauties of the Hudson have been a favorite theme of American poets and artists ; and its ancient folk-lore has been illuminated by the genial wit of Willis and the beautiful language of Irving. The history of the European occupation of this valley covers 265 years, and until within a century it abounds in ])icturesquc incidents. The river was called the Shatemuc and the Mohegan by the Indians until its exploration by Hudson,! in September, 1()09, after which the Dutch named it the North River, and also the Mauritius (in comphment to Prince Mau- rice). The French called it Jm Riviere dcs Montagncs ; and the English finally applied the present name, in honor of the discoverer. As the great steamer passes out into the stream, a fine view is afforded of the harbor in the distance, — the populous shores of Jersey City and Hoboken on the W., and the dense lines of piers and warehouses on the N. Y. shore. Above Hoboken are the Elysian Fields and Castle Hill, crowned by the Stevens mansion; and still beyond is Weehawken, the scene of a fatal duel in 1805. Aaron Burr, Vice-President of the U. S., challenged Alexander Hamilton, a dis- tinguished statesman and jurist, and for 6 years Secretary of the U. S. Treasury. There was no pretext but political antagonism ; and Hamilton, in deference to the public sentiment of the time, appeared on the duelling-ground, but declined to fire. Burr took deliberate aim, and fatally wounded Hamilton, who died 30 hours after, amid the mourning of the nation. "Burr lived more than 30 years, a fugitive, like Cain, and suffering the bitter scorn of his countrymen." The great Manhattan Market is seen on the r. (foot of 34th St.), below Weehawken; and farther up (1.) is Bull's Ferry. At Manhattanville is seen the Limatic Asylum ; and above this is the Deaf and Dumb Asjlum, on the heights of Fort Washington. Opposite the latter is Fort Lee (sec page 28 ); and opposite In wood (N. Y.) is the imposing and loftily situ- ated summer hotel, the * Palisades Mountain House (300 guests ; reached from Englewood, on the Northern R. R. of N. J.). Tlie * Palisades are 2.50-600 ft. high, and extend from Hoboken to Piermont, with a con- tinuation along the Tappan Zee to Haverstraw and Point-no-Point, Tlie ridge is a basaltic trap-dike, and is but 2 M. wide in some places, sepa- rating the Hudson from the Hackensack Valley. Tlie summit of tlie precipice is thickly wooded; and it looks almost as lonely and desolate as the cliffs of the Saguenay. Above Inwood the mouth of Simyten Duyvil Creek is seen on the r. This stream is named after a legendary Dutch trumpeter, hurrying down Avith a summons to arms when New York was menaced by 900 Indians. " He took a hearty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most valorously that he would swim across in spite of the Devil (en spyt den duyvel), and dariiigly plunged into the stream. Luckless Anthony ! Scarcely had he buffeted half-way over, when he Avas observed to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of tl'ie waters. Instinctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and, giving a vehement blast, 1 Henry Hudson was a bold mariner of England who lonp labored, by Nova Zembla and the Siberian waters, to find a N. E. i)assage to India. In KKK) he sailed W. in the Dutch East India Companv s vessel, the Hnlf-Monn, coasted alon? Cape Cod and the CliesaneaVe, and ascended the Hndson River to the site of 'J'roy. In ](!10 lie sailed in the bark fJifcnvrri/ to Greenland, Labrador and IFudsons Bay. where he was seized by his inntino'is crew, aiul was set adrift in a small shallop, together with his son and 7 sailors. He was never heard of afterward. 64 Routes. YONKERS. sank forever to the bottom ! . . . . Here an old Dutch burgher, famed for his veracity, and who had been a witness to the affair, related the melancholy affair, with the fearful addition (to which I am slow in giving belief) that he saw the Duyvel, in the shape of a huge moss-bonker (a species of inferior fish), seize the sturdy Anthony by the leg, and drag him beneath the Avaves." (Irvinu.) At this place the Indians attacked Hudson's vessel (in 1609), but were repulsed after a severe contlir't. The promontories of Spuyten Uuyvil were strongly fortified by the British during the Revolution, and it formed the S. border of the "Neutral Ground," — a belt of about 30 M. wide, that was incessantly swept by the raidj of the moss-troopers called Cow Boys and Skinners. 2^ M. above Spuyten Dtiyvil is Riverdale, near wliich are seen tlio stately buildings of Mt. St. Vincent, the Mother House of the Sisters of Charity, a Catliolic order Avhich has 67 estaljlishnieuts in and near New York. The castle of Font Hill is of blue granite and has 6 battle- mented towers. It was built by Edwin Forrest ; but after his domestic troubles he sold it to the Sisters, whose clergy now occupy Font Hill. The spacious buildings in the rear were erected by the Sisterhood, and are occupied by the nuns and their young lady pupils. 1^ M, from Mt. St. Vincent is Yonkers (* Peahody House), a pleasant town at the mouth of the Neperan Rivei', with 12,733 inhabitants (in 1870), 1 daily and 3 weekly papers, and 9 churches. There are many fine villas in the vicin- ity, and pleasant drives. The population is largely composed of N. Y. City merchants and their families. Yonkers occupies the site of the Indian village of Nappechamak, off which Hudson made his second anchorage, and bought oysters and beans from tlie natives ("a loving people, who attained great age"), who came out in 28 canoes. It lay in the domain of Colendonck, 24,000 acres in extent, which was ruled by the Fatroon Van der Uonck (1046-65). Much of this estate was alterwards ac- quired by the Philipse family, who erected a spacious stone Manor Hall near Yonkers, in 1682. Mary Philijjse, the beautiful heiress of this estate (and the heroine of Cooper's novel, " The Spy") was the first love of George Washington (17o6), and although he could not win her, he always remend)ered her fondly. She was attainted for treason after the Revolution, and her vast domains were sequestrated. The Manor House still stands at Yonkers (named from Yonk Hccr, "a young lord"), and preserves its baronial halls, quaint carvings, wain- scoting, and Dutch tiles. In 1777 a naval battle Avas fought off Yonkers between the British frigates Rose and Phoenix and a flotilla of American gunboats : and in 177S Gist's Marylanders were driven from the place by the royalists under Tarleton and Simcoe. The Palisades opposite Yonkers are 400 ft. high, and their most pictu- resque point is at Indian Head, 4 M. above, opposite Hastings-upon- Hudson. Much Westchester marble is shipped from Hastings. At this point Lord Cornwallis's British army crossed the Hudson, just before Washington's retreat through the Jerseys. On the heights above the village were 2 forts, whose cannonading greatly annoyed the British ship- ping on the river. Near Hastings is the stately old Livingston mansion, which was the head-quarters of Washington and the scene of the official conferences about the Britisli evacuation of New York (1783). 1 M. above Hastings is Dohhs' Ferry (the scene of the legend of Hendrick and Katrina), an ancient village at the mouth of Wisquaqua Creek and below THE TAPPAN ZEE. Route 8. 65 the Greenburgli Hills. It is a summer home for many citizens, and the view up the Tappan Zee is very attractive (especially from near the quaint Zion Church), The place is named for one Dobbs, a Delaware Swede of the 17th century, who owned this district and kept a ferry here ; and some years since a sharp controversy was raised by a well-sustained but unsuccessful attempt to change the name to Paulding. Opposite this place is Piermont, where a pier 1 M. long (just N. of the line between New York and New Jersey) projects from the W. shore to the deep-water channel. A branch of the Erie Railway runs thence to Suifern, 18 M. N. \V. ; and the Northern R. R. of N. J. passes the village on the route from N. Y. to Nyack. 2 M. from Piermont is the ancient village of Tappan, in the rich Hackensack Valley. Near this place, in 1778, Baylor's regi- ment of American cavalry was surprised at night by the British Gen. Gray, and two thirds of its men were massacred. The house (built in 1700) which was the head-quarters of the army in 1780 is still shown ; and at this place Major Andre was executed, Oct. 2, 1780. At Dobbs' Ferry begins a beautiful lake-like widening of the river, 10 M. long and 2-5 M. wide, Avhich has been renowned for two centuries imder the name of the * Tappan Zee. "Even the Tappan Sea in front was said to be haunted. Often, in the still twi- light of a summer evening, when the sea would be as glass, and the opposite hills would tlirow tlieir shadow lialf across it, a low sound would be heard, as of the steady, vigorf)US pull of oars, tliough not a boat was to bi; descried Some said that it was one of the whale-boats of tlie old water-gnard, sunk by the British ships during the war, but now pennitted to liaunt its old cruisiug-grounds ; but the prevalent opinion connected it with tlie awful fate of liambout Van Dam, of graceless memory. He was a roistering Dutchman of Spiting Devil, who, in times long past, liad navigated lus boat alone one Saturday the whole length of the Tappan Sea, to attend a quilting party at Kakiat, on tlie W. shore. Here he had danced and drunk until midnight, when lie entered his boat to return home. He was warned that he was on the verge of Sunday morning ; but he pulled off nevertheless, swearing he would not land until he reached Spiting Devil, if it took him a month of Sundays. He was never seen afterwards, but may be heard plying his oars, as above mentioned, being the Flying Dutchman of the Tappan Sea, doomed to ply between Kaldat and Spiting Devil until the day of judgment." There is a legend of a stout, round, Dutch-built vessel, with liigli bow and stern, and bearing Dutch colors, sailing up tlie harbor of New Amsterdam in the teetli of wind and tide, and penetrated like a cloud by tlie cannon-shot from the Battery. She never returned down the Hudson, but was often seen l>y the Dutch skippers. "Sometimes near the Pallisadoes, sometimes off Croton Point, and sometimes in the Highlands ; but she was never reported as having been seen above the Highlands. Sometimes it was by the flashes of a thunder-storHi, lighting up a pitchy night, and giving glimpses of her careering across Tap- pan Zee, or the wide waste of Haverstraw Bay Sometimes, in quiet moonlight nights, she would be seen under some high bluff of the Highlands, all in deep shadow, excepting her topsails glittering in the moonbeams Her appearance was always just after, or just before, or just in the midst, of unruly weather ; and she was known to all the skippers and voyagers of the Hudson by the name of the Storm Ship." Some maintained that this phantom was the Flying Dutchman, passed from the stormy Cape of Good Hope to more tranquil waters. Others held that it was Hendrick Hudson and the shadowy creAv of the Half-Moon, sailing to their weird revels in the Catskills. "It is said that slie still haunts tlie Highlands, and cruises about Point-no- Point. People who live 66 Route S. SUNNYSIDE. along the river insist that they sometimes see her in summer moonlight, and that in a deep, still midnight they have heard the chant of her crew, as if heaving the lead." (Irving.) Passing now the classic portico of Nevis, the home of the Hamiltons (from Nevis, a West India Island, wlierc Alexander Hamilton was born), and the Renaissance mansion of Caen stone, Nnits, owned hy the Cotti- nets, the modern village of Irvington is seen on the r. Just N. of this place is * Sunnyside, the quaintly beautifiil stone mansion where Irving dwelt and wrote. This house was built in the 17th century by Wolfert Acker, a world-weary and cynical Dutch councillor. He inscribed over its door, "Lust in Rust" (pleawu'c in quiet), whence the English settlers called it "Wolfert's Roost." Jacob Van Tassel, the projjrictor during the Kevolutioii, was an active American partisan ; and the Roost was sacked and Ijurned by the British. Mr. Irving made many additions and enrichments to it. and named it " yunnyside." " It is said, in fact, to have been modellcil after the cocked hat of Peter the Headstrong, as tho Escurial was modelled after the gridiron of the blessed St. Lawrence." Tlie E. front is covered with ivy, from a slii) which Sir Y."altcr Scott gave to Irving at Abbotsford ; and the jdace is charmingly described in Irving's story of "Wol- fert's Roost." Washington Irving was born at N. Y. City in 1783, and died at Sunnyside in 1859. His father was a Scotchnian, and his mother was English. He studied law, but did not practise, and begun to write in Ins inth year, ISO-l-G he Ava;; in Europe. In 1807 he imblished "Salmagundi," and in 1808, "Knickcrbockor's History of N. Y." The failure of a connnercird house in which his funds were invested injured his pccmuary position, and from 1815 to 1C32 ho lived in Eurojio, where, with the aid of Sir Wr.Ucr Scott, he publi.shed "Tho Sketch-Book " and several other works. 1826-120 lie resided in Spain, writing "The Conquest of Granada," "Life of Columbus," and "Legends of the Alhambra." He Avas Sec. of Legation at London, 1820-31 ; and after lli^5 return to N. Y. , he wrote several books of travels. From 1842 to 1846 he w;;s Minister ta Spain, and, after re- turning, revised his works, wrote biographies of Goldsmith and Mahomet, and closed his labors by a " Life of Waslii;-.gt(m." in 5 volumes (1855-50). He was a member of many European and American learned societies, and was Doctor of Laws of Oxford, Harvard, and Cokunbia. He never married ; and in 1846 he. bought the old house of Wollrrt's Roost, which was altered and amended from time to time until the present "Sunnyside" was finished, and there he received many of the eminent men of his time, including Daniel AVebstcr and Louis Na- poleon. He was a warm friend of Sir Waller Scott, Tom Moore, Campbell, and other eminent British contemporaries. Scott said of "The Sketch-Book," " It is positively beautiful" ; Byron speaks of " irving, Avhose writings arc my delight" ; Louis Napoleon said, "1 admire him both as a writer and as a man"; Bryant predicts "for him a deathless renown " ; Miss Mitford says, "Few, very few, can show a long succession of volumes so ]iure, so graceful, and so varied as Mr. Irving" ; and Everett (speaking of American literature) holds that "it can neAtr be disputed that the mild and beautifid genius of Mr. Irving Avas the Morning Star that led up the march of our heavenly host." Above, and near Sunnyside, are the mansions of Bierstadt, Wm. E. Dodge, Robert Hoe, Cyrus W. Field, and other leading men of N. Y. To the N., near the shore, is the pointed tower of Cunningham Castle, beyond which is the Paulding Manor, a costly marble building in Eliza- bethan architecture; and still farther N. is Tarrytovn {^ Cliff House ; Irving House ; MoWs; and several large summer boarding-houses), an ancient village, beautifully situated on a far-viewing hillside. There are many fine villas in and aliout this place (especially the Erickstan man- TARRYTOWN. Route 8. G7 sion), and the views over tlie Tappan Zee are famed for their breadth and beauty. But this district has an interest greater than that of mere natu- ral loveliness, in that it is the land of Irving and of Andre. Here is Christ Church, of which Irving was a warden when he died. About 1^ M. to the S. is Sunnyside; and just N. of the village is the sequestered valley known of old as Slacperigh Haven, and immortalized by Irving in " The Legend of Sleepy Hollow." On a knoll in the valley is the quaint little Dutch church, built by Vedrjxk Flypsen (Pliilipse), the lord of the manor, in 1699, Avith bricks imported from Holland. On its spire is a flag-shaped vane, bearing the monogram of Flypsen ; and in the tower is a bell, with the inscription, " Si. Deus. Pro. Nobis. Quis. Contra. Nos. 1685." Beyond the ancient and mossy graveyai'd is the village cemetery (with the costly Delavan Monument on Battle Hill), wliere, in an en- closure near the receiving-tomb, is the flower-adorned grave of Wasliing- ton Irving, overlooking Sleepy Hollow and the Tappan Zee. In tlie dark glen lielow the church is a bridge over the Pocantico, which stands near that on which Icliabod Crane was overthrown by the spectre of the headless horseman. From the bridge is seen Castle Philip.se, a grim and liomely old man- sion. The lands E. of the Tappan Zee pertained to tlie Indian Sachem Goarlus, and were bought in 1G80 by Frederick Pliilipse, a descendant of the Viscounts relyi)s, ancient Hussite nobles of Bohemia. These lands were formed into a baronial estate, with mansions at Sleepy Hollow and Yonkers ; and Castle Philipse was erected in 1683, with lines of loopholes and artillery, to serve as a rallying point for the tenantry in case of Indian hostilities. In 1775 the family pronounced against the Colonies and in favor of the Crown, and being attainted for treason, the estates were confiscated and sold to the tenantry. Castle Philipse was held by the Beekman family until ISUO. Above the Castle is the cluster of niodera villas called Irving Park. 1 M. S. of the old Dutch church, Andre's Brook crosses the highAvay, near a marble monument 25 ft. high, erected by the i>eople of Westchester County, "as well to commemorate a great event as to test! y their high estimation of that in- tegrity and patriotism which, rejecting every temptation, rescued tlie United States from most imminent peril, by balHing the arts of a spy and the plots of a traitor." Benedict xVrnold, a brilliant and ambitious American general, was wounded at the Battle of Saratoga, and afterwards (in 1778) was made Military Governor of Philadelphia. Here he married Margaret Shippen, a fair royalist and a friend of the British Adj. -Gen. Andre, and lived in a state of luxury and ex- travagance that was only sustained by corruption and malfeasance in office. Of these charges he was convicted by court-martial, and was re](rimanded by Wasliiiigton. His proud spirit felt the disgrace so keenly that he resolved to be revenged upon the country, and he 0]ieiicd a secret correspondence with Sir Henry Clinton. Obtaining the command of tlie fortress of West Point, the key to the upper Hudson, he offered to surrender it to the British. Major Andr^, Adjutant-General of the British army, went up the Tappan Zee on the sloop-of- war Vulture, and landed by night near Haverstraw, where he arranged with Ar- nold for the surrender. But the Vulture was forced to retire by an American battery on Teller's Point, and Andre, attempting to go by land to New York (dis- guised as a citizen), was halted at this point near Tarrytown — in the Neutral Ground — by a squad of irregular militia. He was searched, and the papers and plans of the surrender were found in his stockings. Refusing the princely bribes that he offered them to release him, the militiamen carried him to head-quarters, whence he was removed to Tappan, tried before a court-martial, convicted, and hung as a spy (Oct. 2, 1780), amid the mourning of bf)th armies. John Andre was a young man of noble character, an artist, poet, and chivalric soldier, involun- tarily a spy, and died heroicilly, his last words being, " I pray you to bear me witness that I meet my fate like a brave man." He was but 29 years of age, of 68 Routes. SING SING. Swiss parentage ; and in 1831 his rcniains wore removed fioni Tappan and buried in AVestniiiister Abbey, near the elci5ant mural monument which waii raised to his memory by King George III. Tarrytou n oteiiiiies the site of the Indian village of Alipconck (" Place of Elms "), and was early setlled by the Dutch, who called it Tcrwoi Dorp, or "Wheat Town," from its large cro] IS of that cereal. The English conquerors retained the " Tor- wen," and modulated it to its present name, though Irving says: "The name was given, we are told, in former days by tl.e good housewives of the adjacent countrj', from the inveterate propensity of their Imsbands to linger about the vil- lage taverns on market days." A stage leaves Tarrytown daily at 2 p. m., and passes R. E. to White Plains and Tort Chester. N. of Tarrytown are the mansions of Fremont and Aspinwall. Nearly opposite Tan-ytowu (steam ferry every lialf-hour) is Nyack-on- thc-IIudson, a prosperous village at the foot of tlic rugged Nyack Hills. Willi a population of 3,438, the viilage has 3 weekly and 2 monthly pa}ters, and several shoe factories. Boulevards 100 ft. wide lead to Rock- land Lake on tlie N. and Piernioiit on tlie S. Great quantities of milk, fruits, and vegetables are shijiped from this point to N. Y. The Rock- land Female Institute is a favorite academy located here, and its large hrick building, situated on a far-viewing promontory S. of the village, is used as a summer boarding-house, imder the name of the * Tappan Zee House. The Palmer (new in 1873), Smithsonian, and Clarendon Houses are also pojiular summer hotels. Nyack is the N. terminus of the North- ern N. J. R. R. N. of Tarrytown are many fine river-side villas, and the steamer ascends the placid Tappan Zee to Sing Sing, a large village, beaiitifully placed on a long upward slope. It has 4,()9G inhabitants, .5 churches, and 2 weekly papers. There are 2 large military schools here, and on Higldand Avenue are several summer boarding-houses. Great Methodist camp-meetings are held liere annually. Sing Sing is an Indian name, meaning " Stone upon Stone " (or from Ossining, *' a stony place "); and this portion of th(! Philipse Manor v/as settled in the 17th century. Over a ravine at this point the Croton Aqueduct is carried on an elliptical arch of masonry of 88 ft. span. 4-5 M. E. of Sing Sing are the Chap- paqua Sulphur Springs, near the former home of Horace Greeley. The Sing Sing State Prison (1 of the 3 in N. Y. State) was founded about 1820, with a view of employing the convicts in the marble quanies. The buildings were erected by felons from the Auburn Prison, and stand at the foot of the marble ridge of 'Mt. Pleasant, | M. S. of the village (near the river), in grounds covering 130 acres. The main prison is 484 ft. long, and has 1,200 cells, with an iron foundry and manufactories of whips, saddles, shoes, furnitin-e, etc., where the convict labor is utilized. The female prison is to the E. on higher ground, and is built of marble with a classic portico. It has 108 cells, and the prisoners are employed in making clothing. Opposite Sing Sing (ferry frequent! j^) is Rockland Lake, 1 M. from and 160 ft. above the river, and 3 M. around. It is the source of the Hacken- sack River, and 1,000 men are engaged during the winter in cutting and storing the 200,000 tons of ice which are sent hence to N. Y. every sum- mer (by the Knickerbocker Ice Co.). There is a large hamlet on its STONY POINT. Routes. 69 mgged S. E. shore, and broad views are enjoyed from the riverward heights (with Torn Mt, on the N. W.). Spacious ice-houses are seen near the river. Just above this landing is Verdrietege Hook, or Point-no- Point, a bold rocky promontory at the E. end of the Ramapo Mts. Above &lng Sing is seen Croton Point (the Indian Senasqua ; the historic Teller's Point), projecting 2 M. between the Tappan Zee and Haverstraw Bay, and covered with rich vineyards and orchards. At this point the Croton River enters the Huilson. 6 M. up this river is the famous Croton Lake, from which N. Y. City is sui)plied with water. This narrow hike is 5 M. long, and is lormed by a dam 25!) ft. long, 40 ft. high, and 70 ft. thick at the bottom. The water is conducted to N. Y. in an aiiueduct 40} M. long, by 16 tunnels and 'J.') bridges. The conduit is of brick, 8} ft. high and 7^ wide, and descends Vo\ iuchc.5 lo the M. There are white stone towers for veuti- lation at every M., and the daily capacity of the a(iuedu(t i.s 00,000,000 gallons. Near Croton Bay (where Hudson anchored the HoJf-Mooii in 1009), at tlie mouth of the river, is the' ancient Van Cortlandt Manor House. The Van Corilandts were descended from the Russian Dulces of Courlaud, and in 1097 Stephen of that ilk founded a broad manor on the Hudson. The manor house v/as built (about 1710) of heavy masonrj', with looi)holes, and it looked out on Croton Bay as it now does. This family took the Auiericau side at the outbreak of the Revolution, and gave a major-general to the army. The Higlilands loom up boldly in front as the steamer crosses the beau- tiful Haverstraw Bay to Haverstrcuc, an important village above Long- Clove Mt., and under a range of higli hills. N. of this point is Treason Hill, where, at Smith's old stone house, Benedict Arnold and John Andre arranged the terms of the betrayal of the Republic (Sept. 22, 1780). N. E. of Haverstraw (by ferry) is Cruyer^s, a R. R. station and a popular summer-resort at the head of Haverstraw Bay. The * Cortlandt Park Hotel is a new house for 150 guest.s, with line river-views and drives. Lakes Croton, Mahopac, and Oscawana are visited from this point. The riparian scenery now grows more grand and striking, and the tall High- lands are rapidly approached. Above Haverstraw is a line of limestone cliffs, which have produced 1,000,000 bushels of lime yearly ; and 2 M. above is Grassy Point, the seat of large brickyards (.50-60,000,000 brick are made in this town yearly). 1 M. farther is Stony Point (W. bank), a high, rocky peninsula, crowned witli ruined mounds and a lighthouse (on the magazine of the old fort). Opposite Stony Point is the bluff Verplanck's Point, with its modern village and church. Off the promontory called Meahagh, Hudson anchored his ship and was visited by crowds of astonished Highland Imlians. Ifi 1083 Meahagh was attached to the Van Cortlandt Manor, whose heiress, Gertrude, was married by Philip Ver- plauck, in honor of whom the point was named. About 1770 Fort Fayette was built on Verplanck's Point, and Stony Point was also fortified in oi'der to guard the King's Ferry and the lower gate to tlie Highlands. June 1, 1779, Sir Henry Clinton and Admiral Collier attacked these works. The slender garrison at Stony Point fell back into the Highlands without fighting, and Fort Fayette surrendered after being cannonaded. Washington deeply lamented the loss of such a valuable strategic position ; but Gen. Wayne begged ])ermission to attack and rccai)ture the works, saying, "General, I'll storm heU if v,oii will only plan it." Stony Point was garrisoned by the 17th regiment and several grenadier companies ; 70 Routes. THE DUNDERBERG. Fort Fayette had an equal garrison ; and several war-vessels lay in the river. At midnight on July 16, having previously cut off the outer sentries, Wayne advanced silently along the beach with two small columns of picked uien (5th Penn. and Mass. Light Infantry), and carried the fort at the i)Oint of the bayonet, under a heavy hre of musketry and grape-shot. Wayne was shot in the head at the inner abatis, and shouted to his men, " March on ! carry me into the fort, for I will die at the head of my column." But when the Penn. and Mass. columns met in the centre of the works, and the roll of their cheering swept over the river, Wayne was strong enough to write to VVashington : " The fort and garrison, with (Jol. Johnston, are ours. Our officers and men behaved like men who are determined to be free." The British standard was struck by Lt.-Col. de Fleury (of the Mass. ' Light Infantry, and afterwards a marshal of France), a descendant of Cardinal de" Fleury, Premier of France. He received from Congress a vote of thanks and a medal. The Americans lost 98 men ; and the British loss was 63, besides 543 prisoners. Wayne cannonaded Verplanck's Point all next day, but Sir Henry Chnton sent up reinforcements ; and, in obedience to Washington's orders, the Stony Point fortress was destroyed and abandoned. The galley which was con- veying the heavy artillery to West Point was sunk by a shot from the Vulture. " The assault of Stony Point is not only the most brilliant I am acquainted with throughout the whole course of the war, on either side, but it is the most brilliant that I am acquainted with in history ; the assault of Schiveidnitz, by Marshal Laudon, 1 think inferior to it." (Gen. Lee.) Pa.ssing now the gi-eat lime-kilns on the W. shore, at 3 M. from Stony Point is seen Caldwell's Lauding, at the foot of the ahriipt and imposing * Dunderborg (Thunder Mt.), which was anciently believed to be the home of stormy imps. " The captains of the river craft talk of a little bulbous-bottomed Dutch goblin, in trunk hose and sugar-loafed hat, with a speaking-trumpet in his hand, which, they say, keeps the Bonder Berg. They declare that they have heard him in stormy "weather, in the midst of the turmoil, giving orders in Low Dutch for the piping up of a fresh gust of wind, or the rattling off of another thunder-clai>. That sometimes he has been seen surrounded by a crew of little imjis, in broad breeches and short doublets, tumbling head over heels in the rack and mist, and playing a thousand gambols in the air, or buzzing like a swarm of flies about Anthony's Nose ; and that, at such times, the hurry-skurry of the storm was always greatest Skipi^er Daniel Ouslestickcr, of Fish Kill, who was never known to tell a lie, declared that, in a severe squall, he saw him seated astride of his bowsprit, riding the sloop ashore, full butt against Anthony's Nose, and that he was exorcised by Dominie Van Geisen of Esopus, who happened to be on board, and who sang the song of St. Nicholas, Avhereupon the goblin tlu-ew him- self up in the air like a ball, and went off in a whirlwind, carrying away with him the nightcap of the Dominie's wife, whicl\ was discovered the next Sunday morning hanging on the weathercock of Esopus church steeple, at least 40 M. off. Several events of this kind having taken place, the regular skii)iiers of the river for a long time did not venture to pass the Donder Berg without lowering their peaks, out of hoinage to the Heer of the Mts. ; and it was observed that all such as paid this tribute of resi)ect were suffered to pass unmolested." (Irving.) Some years ago ati iron cannon was found in the river off the Dunderberg (one of the captured British guns shipped from Stony Point, and sunk on its barge by a shot from the Britisli sloop-of-war Vulture). On this slender basis, a sharp speculator proclaimed that Capt. Kidd's pirate-ship (see page 65) was sunk at this point with all its treasures on board ; formed a stock conqiany and raised large sums of money (on the evidence of a long auger which had bored through the deck and brought up silver on its thread). A coffer-dam and huge pumps worked for months off the Dunderberg, and the ruins of the works may still bo seen. The originator of the scheme was enriched by it, but scores of others made heavy losses. Opposite the Dunderberg is the bright village of Peekskill {Continental Hotel), situated on an elevated and sheltered plain E. of Peekskill Bay. It THE HIGHLANDS. Route 8. 71 has 6,560 inhabitants, 2 weekly papers, and a military school. At this place is a convent of Franciscan Sisters ; and near the river is the Acad- emy of Our Lady of Angels. To the E. is the summer home of Henry Ward Beecher. There is a steam-ferry to Caldwell's Lauding, under the Dunderberg. The village stands at the mouth of the romantic Peek's Kill Hollow, and affords many fine drives among the hills. Some time iii the 17th century Jan Peek, a Dutch mariner, was sailing up tlie Hudson, and taking the wrong course, entered and asftended abroad creek, whose fertile banks so pleased him that he named it Peek's Kill, and settled there. On the liigh promontory N. of the village, Foit Independence was erected during the Revolution, and Putnam made his head-quarters there. Large barracks and sup- lily-depots were at Continental Village, 3 M. N. E. among the hills ; and in Oct., 1777, it was attacked and destroyed by Emerick's Hessian chasseurs. 2 M. E. of Peekskill is a later manor-house of the Van Cortlaudts, near which is the little old Episcopal Church of St. Peter (built 1767), with a monument in its venerable graveyard erected by N. Y. City to John Paulding, one of the incoiTuptible cap- tors of Andre. To the N. is the lofty bare ridge of Gallows Hill, which commands a fine view of Peekskill and the river, the Hollow, and Westchester County as far as Tarrytown. On the N. is Continental Village, in the rich Canopus Valley, be- yond which are " the rough turrets of the Higliland towers." On the summit of this hill was executed Lieut. Palmer, a loyalist officer of the royal army. He was caught in disguise within the American lines, and in answer to the demands of Sir Henry Clinton for his release, Putnam wrote : "Sir, — Edmund Palmer, an officer in the enemy's service, was taken as a spy, lurking within our lines. He lias been tried as a spy, condemned as a syjy, and shall be executed as a spy ; and the flag is ordered to depart accordingly. P. S. He has been accordingly exe- cuted." In March, 1777, Gallows Hill was held by the retreating garrison of Peekskill, when that place was captured by 12 sail of British vessels, and its great depots of sujjplies were burnt. Bending to the N. W, at Peekskill, the Hudson enters that part of its course called the Race, and passes through the beautiful * Highlands, which Chateaubriand likened to "a large bouquet tied at its base with azure ribbon." From Peekskill to Newburgh stretches a panorama of river scenery unsurpassed iu the world. Dunderberg, on the 1., confronts A nthony's Nose on the r. This bold promontory derives its name (according to Irving) from the following incident : " It must be knowm, then, that the nose of Anthony the trumpeter was of a very lusty size, strutting boldly from his countenance "like a mountain of Golconda, being sumptuously bedecked with rubies and other precious stones, — the true regalia of a king of good fellows, which jolly Bacchus grants to all who bouse it heartily at the flagon. Now thus it happened, that bright and early in the morning, the good Anthony, having v/ashed his burly visage, was leaning over the quarter-railing of the galley, contemplating it in the glassy wave below. Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all his splendor from behind a high bluft' of the Highlands, did dart one of his most potent beams full upon the refulgent nose of the sounder of brass, the reflection of which shot straightway down hissing hot into the water, and killed a mighty sturgeon that was disporting beside the vessel. This huge monster, being with infinite labor hoisted on board, furnished a luxurious repast to all the crew, being aceouuted of excellent flavor excepting about the wound, where it smacked a little of brimstone : and this, on my veracity, was the first time that ever sturgeon was eaten in these parts by Christian ])eople. Wlien this astonishing nu'racle became known to Peter Stuy- vesant, and that he tasted of the unknown fish, he, as may well be supposed, mar- velled exceedingly ; and as a monument thereof, he gave the name of Anthony's Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood, and it has continued to be called Anthony's Nose ever since that time." 72 Routes. FORT MONTGOMERY. Falling from tlie slopes of Anthony's Nose i.s the romantic Brocken Kill; and near the W. shore is the grape-abounding lona Island (the N. limit of the sea-breeze), under the Diinderberg and near the mouth of the Forest- of-Dean Creek. Just above and also on the W. shore is the old Poplopen Kill (now Fort Montgomery Creek), whose deep, tranquil current conducts in \ M. to clitf-environed falls. Bear Mt. is seen on the W. On the high promontories at tl:e mouth of this creek are some remains of Forts Montgomery (N.) and Clinton (S.)- In 1775 -7(>, these works were built, and a strong boom and an iion chain ttuated on rafts were stretched across tlie river and guarded by a flotilla of gunboats. This system of defences was designed to close the upper Hudson against the JJritish tleut. In Oct., 1777, Sir Henry Clinton and 5,000 men advanced hitherward, and after some sharp skirmishing in the defiles and glens of the Dnndcrberg and about Lake Sinnii)ink, the hostile army divided into 2 columns, which ajJiieared before tiie forts and demanded their surrender. The garrisons consisted of OOi) militia, under Gens. James and Geoige Clinton. The British fleet openetl ui>on the works and giuiboats, and the land forces at- tacked with the l)ayonet. Lord Rawdon and tlie Polish Count Grabowski led the assault on Fort Montgomery, and the latter fell under its walls, and is now buried there. Putnam's Nevv-Englanders, aroused by the roaring of the artillery amid the Highlands, were unable to cross the river, and the remnant (if the over- powered garrison retired into the hills in the cloudy twilight. The fleet was unable to escape by reason of an adverse wind, and the vessels were burnt at the chccaux lie frise. " The flames suddenly broke forth, and as every sail was set, the vessels soon be(*ame magnilicent pyramids of tire. The reflection on the steep face of the opposite mt., and the long train of ruddy liglit v.hicli shone upon the water for a prodigious distance, hail a wonderful effect, wliile the ear was awfully filled Avith the continued echoes from the rocky shores, as the flames gradually ]-eached the loaded cannons. The whole was sublimely terminated by the exjilo- sions, which left all again in darkness." The British loss was 140, and the Amer- icans lost 300 men, 100 camion, 2 frigates, and 3 smaller armed vessels. The next morning the victors cleared away the obstructions which liad cost Congress Si'JO.OOO, and had a clear way up the river (see Thackeray's "Virginians," Cliap. XOI.). Just S. W. of old Fort Clinton is Lake Sinnijnnk, a forest-bound sheet of crystal water (123 ft. above the river), from whose W. shore Bear Mt. rises sheer to the height uf over 1,000 ft. 31uch severe fighting occurred at the strong abatis by this lake, and Ihe slain soldiers were thrown into its calm dejjths, whence it was long called Bloody Pond. There are considerable ruins at Fort Montgomery ; but Fort Clinton has been razed. To the W. is the Forest of Dean, and the rugged mt. town of Monroe, with its many lakes. The river now bends to the N, E. Far in advance is the ruined height of Fort Putnam ; and on the r. front is the symmetrical cone of Sugar- Loaf Mt. Hujhland Falls are now seen on the 1., a series of white rapids on a brook Avhich falls 100 ft. to the river (near whicli is the * Cascade House). Here are large flonr-mills ; and just above is * C'ozzens* Hotel, a fashionable summer resort, on a high blutT, with pleasant rambles and drives. There is a steam-ferry from Cozzens' to Garrison's; and a small village is near the former. *West Point. " In this beautiful place : the fairest among the fair and lovely Highlands of the North River : shut in by deep green heights and ruined forts, and looking down upon the distant town of Newburgh along a glittering path of sunlit water, with here and there a skiff whose white sail often bends on some new tack as sudden flaws of wind come down upon her from the gullies in the hills : hemmed in, besides, all around with memories of Washington and events of the Revolu- tionary War : is the Military rfcliooi of America." (Dickens.) WEST POINT. Routes. 73 In 1775, Congress ordered that the narrow passes of the Hudson slioukl be fortilied, and so Fort Constitution was erected, opposite West Point ; but beiag commanded by ailjacent hills, it was abandoned on yir Henry Clinton's advance in Oct., 1777. In 1778-79, West Point and its approaches were fortified with 4 forts and 8 redoubts, and became "the (Gibraltar of America"; and a massive iron chain and booms were stretched across the river to Constitution Island. It Avas the most important post in the Union, as keeping oi)en transit to and from New England, and also as closing all chance of tlie British in N. Y. City for direct connnunication with Canachi. The various works were armed with 118 cannon, and garrisoned by 3,086 men, in Sept., 1780, when Arnold's treason culminated in failure. After the war, the fortress wiis abandoned, and fell into ruin. In 1783, and again in 179;i, Washington recummeuded that a military school should be founded at W(!st Point. In 1802 it was authorized liy Congress, and in 1812 it went into operation. There have been about 4,000 men educated heie, and they have led the armies of the Republic in all her later wars. The great generals of the Secession War, on either side, were graduates of this school. Every Congressional district is entitled to send here annually one youth (physi- cally perfect, and grounded in elementary education), who shall devote 4 yeai-s to arduous academic and military studies, receiving the pay of $41. GG a month, and one ration daily. The graduate enters upon the rank and pay of a 2d licut. in the U. S. Army. The Corps of Cadets has about 250 members, who remain in camp during the summer (from July 20). V'arious drills and evolutions are carried on during the day ; but the most imposing spectacle is the evening dress-pai*ade, at sunset. The National Military Academy is 51 M. from N. Y. City. Tlie buildings of the Academy occupy a plateau 157 ft. above the river (W. bank), and are reached by a steep road cut along tlie cliff-side at great expense. The Plain is a broad plateau which is used for the evolu- tions of the artillery, infantry, and cavalry; and on its verge are the spacious buildings of the school. The Cadets' Barracks and the Academic Building are fine stone structures in castellated architecture; the Library Building has over 20,000 volumes, and in its dome is an equatorial tele- scope, while the towers contain a mural circle and a transit instrument. The Chai)el has a large chancel-picture by Prof. Weir; on the E. side are memorial tablets to the officers who fell in the Mexican War, and trophy cannon and colors taken in that war; and on the W. side are memorials to the generals of the Revolution, the cannons given to Gen. Greene, and trophy flags captured from British and German regiments. The * Museum of Ch'dnance and Trophies contains hundreds of models of arms and am- munition, cannon, horses, etc.; Rebel missiles and torpedoes; a 15-inch shot fired from the U. S. iron-clads into Fort Sumter, and recaptured by tlie U. S. army at Columbia, S. C. ; Indian trophies; a large model of the silver-mines of Valenciana ; Mexican flags taken in battle ; Aztec idols ; the eagle and drapery from the hall of the Mexican Senate; and the colors of the regular army in the Shawnee, British, Seminole, Mexican, and Secession Wars. Tlie Picture Gallery is in the Academic Building ; and on the 2d floor is a large collection of models of bridges, buildings, fortifications, parallels and redoubts, and of Fort Wagner (near Charles- ton) and the fortress of San Juan d'Ulloa (at Vera Cruz). Below the Library is the Riding Hall (used from 11 tol o'clock) ; and near the N. Wharf is the Sea-Coast Battery, commanding the river with an armament 4 74 RmteS. WEST POINT. of immense guns. Tlie Trophy Battery, on the Plain, looks down througli the Gate of the Highlands ; and here and in the vicinity are many cap- tured cannon, including the mortars taken by Wayne at Stony Point; British mortars from Saratoga ; " Le Alonarque,'" a costly gun given by Congress to Lafayette ; ancient Mexican artillery ; the fragments of a 30- pound PaiTott gun that hurled 4,606 shot into Cliarleston, S. C. ; many Rebel cannon, including the immense Blakely (English) guns from Hilton Head, Fort Morgan, Fort Pulaski, Fort Fisher, and the famous Whitworth gun, " Whistling Dick," from Morris Id. Also a portion of the iron chain that was stretched across the Hudson in 1778 ; and the field-piece (of Elder's Battery) that fired the last shot before Lee's surrender. On the N. E. angle of the Plain is Fort Clinton, a restoration of that ancient Fort Arnold whose name was changed when Arnold became a traitor. In this work is a marble column in honor of Kosciuszko ; and N. of the Library is the quiet terrace-garden where the noble Pole ^ was wont to seek meditative rest. Flirtation Walk leads from the Garden to the Plain. Battery Knox is S. of Fort Clinton ; and the old Chain Battery Walk leads thence around the bank to Gee's Point and the N. Wharf. Near Fort Clinton is a graceful monument to Major Dade's command, which was attacked by the Seminole Indians of Florida, while marching to relieve Fort King (in 1835), and out of 108 soldiers, 105 were massacred at their posts of duty. A bronze statue of Gen. Sedgwick has lately been erected on the parade ground ; and there is to be a memorial monument to the officers who fell in the Secession War. In the upper part of the grounds is a marble obelisk honoring Lt.-Col. Wood, who fell in the sor- tie from Fort Erie (Sept. 17, 1814); and near it is the Siege Battery. The Cemetery is over Campto^vn (soldiers' quarters), and contains many graves of officers, including Gens. Winfield Scott and Robert Anderson. The Cadets' Monument is a heavy castellated column, surmounted by an urn and trophies. To the S. is the jucturesque Church of the Holy Inno- cents, erected by Prof. Weir in memory of his children. Fort Putnam is a gray ruin crowning Mt. Independence, 596 ft. above the river. It was built in 1778 (and rebuilt in 1794), and from its lofty position was deemed iuqn-egnable. It was flanked on lower ground by Borts Webb and Wyllys, and by 3 redoubts on Rocky Hill. The *news from many parts of West Point are very beautiful, but those from Fort Putnam are the finest, including the chief peaks of the Highlands, the battery-crowned 1 Kosciuszko was born in Poland in 1756, and was educated at the militarv academies of Warsaw and Paris He was sunt by Franklin to Washington, who made Iiini colonel of engineers (thouo;h but 20 years old). He planned Gates s iortified lines near Saratoga, and the fortress of West Point, and remained in the service until the close of the war. In 1793 he raised Poland in insurrection, and defeated several Russian and l^russian armies ; Aus- tria then declared against him, and he was utterly defeated by 150,, which in 1870 reported 2 professors and 9 students. The more elegant part of the city is on the plateau above the river, which is reached by steep streets. The city has some manufactories and a considerable country trade, while immense quantities of coal are brought here from Penn. by a branch of the Erie Railway rumiing up the Quassaic Valley to Greycourt, 19 M. distant, and are shipped to all parts of the Hudson Valley. The Newburgh and N. Y. R. R. runs to the Erie Railway near Turner's, and the D. and C. R. R. runs from the opposite shore into New England. In the S. part of the city is " Washington's Head-quarters," an old stone mansion which is now owned by the State, is preserved in its antique quauitness, and has a museum of historical relics, artillery, etc. (open to the public). Near the house is a mausoleum over the remains of Uzal Knapp, the last of Washington's Life-Guards, who died in 1856, aged 97 years. The Secretary of War recently sent hither 10 Rebel, 10 Spanish, and 10 Mexican cannon. This mansion was built by tlie Hasbroucks, a Huguenot family, in 1750, and ; becamo State property in 1S50. In 1782-83 it was the liead-quarters of Wasliing- ton while the national army lay in and above the Highlands, watching the British at New York. After peac.e had been declared, in 178a, the army grew discontented on account of not liaving been paid for many mouths ; and certain of its leaders, doubting the feasibility of a republic, ottered to make Washington King of Amer- ; ica. The noble Virginian spurned this proposal ; but the anonymous " New- burgh Letters " were circulated among the officers, inciting them to assemble and enforce their rights at the edge of the sword, if necessary. To counteract this leaven of a military despotism, Washington convened the officers of the army at the Temple (;i large building erected near the Scpuire, for the military masonic j and religious meetings), and delivered an earnest address to them. Adjusting his I spectacles before the reading, he said. " You see, gentlemen, that I have not only j grown gray but blind in your service." The assembly was moved to tears, and I resolved unanimously, " That the officers of the American army view with abhor- j vence, and reject with disdain, the infamous pi-opositions contained in u kite j anonymous address to the officers of the army, and resent with indignation the \ secret attempts of some unknown persons to collect the officers togetlier in a man- ji ner totally subversive of all discipline and good order." A short time afterward I the unpaid Contmental army was peacefully disbanded at Newburgh. Hudson, passing the site of Newburgh in 1607, wrote, " It is as beautiful a land as .)ue can tread upon ; a very pleasant jjlace to build a town on." It was then occupied by a warlike clan of the Minsi (Delaware) tribe, which was defeated by the Dutch in the war of 1058-60. The clan was exterminated in 1663, and in 1709 Newburgh was settled by a colony of Lutheran Germans, fleeing from Louis XIV. 's desolation of the Palatinate of the Rhine. It was then called "the Pala- tine Parish of Quassaic " ; but the Gernuins were slowly displaced, and in 1752 it was named " the Parish of Newburgh," from a physical resemblance to Newburgh in Scotland (on the river Tay). Hei'e was born John B. Wool (in 17S8), who was an officer of the U. S. A. from 1812 until his death, in 1869. He was made brig.- gen. for valuable services in the War of 1812 ; in 1846, he marched 3,000 men 900 M. to Saltillo, and planned the positions at Bueiia Vista; and in the Secession War he saved Fortress Monroe by prompt action, and connnanded the Sth Corps of the army. Here also were born T. S. Arthur, the novelist ; Commodore Case, of the U. S. Navy ; A. J. Downing, the laud.-:cape gardener; and George Inness, the artist. 78 Route 8. FISHKILL. Fishkill-on-the-IIudson is opposite Newburgh (steam-ferry), and is a pleasant village with about 3,000 inhabitants. 1^ M. from the Landing is Matteawan, a populous factory-village (near the Falls of Melsingah and the Rocky Glen) ; and 2 M. to the N. is a colony of African Metho- dists. 5 M. N. E. is the ancient handet of Fishkill {Mansion House) in a valley near the Highlands, with its quaint Dutch church (built in 1725) and the old English churcli (Trinity), which was the seat of the N. Y. legislature in 1776, and afterwards became an army hospital. Fishkill was founded before 1690, and was the chief depot of sujjplies for the Con- tinental army in 1777 - 80. In this vicinity are laid tlie scenes of Cooper's novel, " The Spy," of which Enoch Crosby, of Mass., was the hero. The S. Beacon II ill is ascended from Fishkill-on-the-Hudson (with a guide), and reveals a noble * view. The Matteawan or Fishkill Mts. extend along the S. line of the valley, and are penetrated by the Wiccopee Pass, which was held by Continental troops during the Revolution to prevent the British from flanking the fortress of West Point. 2 M , E. of Mattea- wan is Old Beacon, 1,470 ft. high, ^ M. S. of which is the Grand Sachem, 1,680 ft. high. The Dulchess and Columhia R. li. runs N. E. from the junction, 1 M. S. of Fish- kill, to Millt'i'ton in 59 M. (3-3i^ hrs.). It asteuds the Fishkill Valley, i)a.s.sing MaLlcawau and Glenham, with the rugged Fishkill Mts. on the r. The train next crosrics the iiicturesque town of E. Fishkill ; and near the hamlet of Hopewell a short branch diveiges N. E. to Sylvan Lake. Beyond the rural stations among the rolling uplands of La Grange, the line passes Verbank, in Union Vale, and crosses the town of Washington. At Stissing, this route is intersected by the Poughkeepsie and Eastern R. R.; and the road thence curves around, througii Pine Plains, to the terminus at Jlillerton (see page 60). 2 M. N. E. of Fishkill-on-the-Hudson is tlie Verplanck House, with dormer-win- dows and antique Dutch architei^ture. At this house, when it was the Baron Steuben's 1 head-quarters (17S3), the officers of the American army (then about to be disbanded) organized the Society of the Cincinnati, to perpetuate the memories and Iriendships of the Revolutionary struggle, " to preserve inviolate the rights and liberties of human nature," to promoLe union between the States, and to assist distressed officers and tlieir families. This patrician military order adoi'ted an elegant badge (a golden eagle, suspended from a blue and white silk ribbon), and its meetings were for many years attended by the chief men of the nation. The society was founded by Knox, its first i)resident was Washington, and it still exists among the gentlemen of the old school. The steamboat now enters the Long Reach (from Newburgh to Crom Elbow), and soon passes, on the W., opposite Low Point, a rocky plat- form which was named " the Devil's Dance-Chamber " by Hendrick Hudson, after seeing there a midnight pow-wow of painted Indians. But Knickerbocker ('Irving), describing Gov. Stuyvesant's voyage, says, " Even now I have it on the point of my pen to relate how his crew was most horribly frightened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry, roistei'- ing devils, frisking and curvetting on a huge flat rock which projected into the river, and which is called the Duijvell's Dans-Kainer to this very day." 1 The Baron Steuben, nn ofFiccr of Frederick the Great, came to America in 1777, was made a Mai.-Gen., and iiitrodiicfd thorough disciijliiie into the army, ile was one oi tlie mostuselul otticersot' tlie forces, and alter I'S'i he retired to Steubenville, an estate of lU.OOO acres, given him by W. Y. State, where he died, in 171)4. POUGHKEEPSIE. Route 8. 79 Tlie course is now to the N. E., through a less interesting country, rich, however, in agricultural wealth. Neio Hamburgh (E. bank) is at the mouth of Wappinger's Creek, and has a steam-ferry to Marlborough; a few M. N. of which is Milton, standing in a rocky gorge opening on the river, and connected with the E. shore by a ferry. These 2 hamlets are in a rich rural town (famed for its immense crops of raspberries), on whose W. border are the Marlborough Mts. Poughkeepsie {'^Morgan House, $3 a day) is a city of over 20,000 inhabitants, with 6 banks, 3 daily and 3 weekly newspapers, and 24 chiirches. The larger part of the city is built on a plateau nearly 200 ft. above the river, back of which are high hills. On this commanding site is laid the ground-jjlan of a great city, with pleasantly shaded streets, of which Main St. is 1^ M, long. The manufacturing interests are exten- sive and varied, and a lucrative trade is carried on with the adjacent rural towns of Dutchess County. But Poughkeepsie is chiefly famous as an academic city, and is the seat of Vassar College, the Poughkeepsie Female Academy, the Poughkeepsie Collegiate Institute, the Military Institute, Riverview Military Academy, Cottage Hill Seminary, East- man's National Business College, and St. Peter's Academies. There is a proudly conspicuous building, in the style of the Parthenon, overlooking 2,500 sq. M. of country from the sunmiit of College Hill, 500 ft. high, and I M. E. of the city. The Collingwood Opera-House has an elegant hall ; the mansion of Mayor Eastman is one of the finest on the Hudson ; and the Memorial Fountain, erected " To the Patriot Dead of Dutchess County," is worthy of notice. Near the river is the manufactory of the Buckeye Mowers. 2 M. N. of the city, on an eminence which overlooks the Hudson, are the immense and imposing buildings of the * Hudson River State Hospital for the Insane. It has 300 acres of land connected, and was built in 1867-71, at a cost of $7-800,000. The Poughkeepsie and Eastern R. R. runs N. E. 43 M. , across Dutchess County, to Miller- ton (see page 60), whei'e it connects for Hartford and the E. * Vassar College is about 2 M. E. of Poughkeepsie (horse-cars), in a quiet rural vicinage. The main building is 500 ft. long, with wings and pavilions, and is modelled after the Tuileries palace. It is 5 stories (92 ft.) high, has 242 bedrooms and 100 parlors, and is divided by 5 fire-proof walls. The porter's lodge, gymnasium, and other structures in the park are of harmonious architecture. The college was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar, a wealthy Poughkeepsie brewer, who endowed it with $400,000, and made subsequent munificent gifts. It is the foremost college for women in the world, and has about 400 students. There is a large equatorial refractor in the Observatory, and the mineral ealanets are well supplied. The collec^tiou of American birds is the finest in the world. The *Art Gallery (3d story) contains a bust and picture of Vassar, ancient weapons 80 Routes. VASSAR COLLEGE. and armor, the halberd of Francis I., and 1,000 volumes on art. Here is the hest collection of water-colors in America, including 137 British views (castles, cathe- drals, etc.), hy rvgin, Lc Kcux, Mackenzie, and others ; pictures of Normandy, Venice, and Rome ; Hart's White Mt. sketches ; and several by Turner, one of which — the Pass of St. Bernard — includes a dead body in the snow by Stolhart, and a dog by Landseer. There are 133 oil-paintings, including Sunrise on Bernese Alps, Shrine of Shahespeare, Lake Maggiore, and the Roman Cam- pagna, by Gijt'onl ; Summer in S. America, Autumn in N. America, and EA'ening in Vermont, by Church; Chocorua, Lancaster (N. H.), Sunset on Mole Mt., the Upper Conn., Bethel (Mc), and Mt. Washington, Shattuck ; Nantasket Beach a«d Near Cohasset, Gay ; Home Again and N. Y. Market Scene, Gignoux; Evening at Paestum, Coast of Sicily, and Genevieve, Cropsey ; Lake Geoi-ge, Casilcar ; and pictures by Boughton, Wust, Huntington, Beard, Champney, Kensett, Bellows, Kichards, Weir, Martin, Mount, McEntee, Iimess, B. West, D. Wilkie, and others. In this city resides A. J. Davis (sometimes called "The Poughkeepsie Seer"), one of the founders and the most able writer of the sect of the Spiritualists ; and on the beautiful estate of Locust Grove. 2 M. S., lived Prof. S. F. B. Morse, one of the originators of the electric telegraph. After enjoying the honors and emolu- ments of the principal nations of Christendom, he died in 1872 at the age of 81. 1 M. below Poughkeei)sie is the Livingston mansion, a stately house amid ancient trees overlooking the Hudson. It was built by Henry Livingston in 1714, and was cannonaded by a British frigate in 1777. Poughkeepsie was the birthplace of J. H. Livingston. D. D., 18 >ts. President of the College at New Brunswick ; Fitzhugh Ludlow, the magazinist ; and Elijah Hedding, the famous bishop of the Methodist Church. Late in 1873 there was laid at this point, with imposing cere- monies, the corner-stone of a new railroad bridge across the Hudson. The bridge is to be 1 M. long and 194 ft. above the water, with 5 spans of 500 ft. each over the channel. It is to cost $2,600,000, and is meant to afford direct and unbroken railroad communication between the New England coast and the Peun. coal- region and Western grain-fields. Poughkeepsie is spelt in 42 different ways on the old records and majis. It is derived from the Mohegan Apo-keep-sinck (" safe harbor"), which commemorates a legendary achievement of the ancient Indian wars. A young chief of the Pequots and his betrothed escaped from perilous captivities among the Delawares and Hurons, and fled by night to the bay before the present site of the city, where they moored their canoe and, with the help of gathering friends, beat off the tierce pursuers. It was settled by the Dutch about 1698, about the mouth of the Winnakee Creek, which they named the Fall Kill. Its N. promontory was called Slonge Klippe ("Adder Cliff"), from the many snakes found there; and the far- viewing S. point was Call Rock, because from thence the villagers were accustomed to hail passing vessels. 2 sessions of the State legislature were held here during the troublous times of the triple invasion of 1777-78 : and the Federal Constitu- tion was ratified by the State Convention here assembled in 1788. New Paltz Landing is opposite Poughkeepsie (steam-ferry); and 6 M. above is the handsome village of Hyde Park, with its 4 churches, situated on a hill ^ M. from the E. bank of the river (which is here valuable for its sturgeon-fisheries). It was named in honor of Sir Edward Hyde, an early colonial governor of N. Y., by his private secretary, who bought the land on which it was founded. Near this point the Hudson bends and nar- rows between high rocky bluffs. This curve was called by the Dutch Krom Ellehoge (crooked elbow), and still retains the name of Crom ElboAV. 1 M. above is Placentia, the former home of James K. Paulding, the es- sayist, satirist, and friend of Irving, who was Secretary of the U. S. Navy, 1839 - 41. Opposite is the great Pell farm, famous for its apples (many of which are sent to Europe). The river-banks are now and hereafter low and unmteresting, but an air of rich rural peace pervades the country- OVERLOOK MT. HOUSE. Route 8. 81 side, and stalely old mansions and neat modern villas are seen on either hand. Passing Staatsburg and Esopus Island and Meadows (on and near the E, shore) the majestic blue peaks of the Catslcills are seen drawing nearer on the N. W. Beyond Port Ewen is Rondout {Mansion House), at the mouth of Rondout Creek and the N. E. terminus of the Delaware and Pludson Canal. These villages have large foreign populations engaged in the manufacture of cement and the trans-shipment of coal, which is bi-ought uiD over the canal in immense quantities, and is thence dis- tributed over the upper Hudson valley. Kingston is an ancient vil- lage on an elevated plain IJ M. from Rondout (horse-cars). It is the capital of Ulster County, and has 6,315 inhabitants, 4 newspapers, and 3 banks. Tliis site was settled by the Dutch in 1663, and was named Wiltwyck. A redoubt was built near Rondout Creek, but the place was attacked by tlie'Esopus Indians soon after, and 65 persons were killed or captured. The Indians besieged the redoubt until it was relieved by Dutch troops from N. Y. The soldiers then made a sunnner campaign among the hill fastnesses, destroyed the Indian forts and magazines, killed many warriors, and forced the tribe to sue for peace. Soon afterwards the colony was augmented by a company of Huguenots. In 1777 the N. Y. legislature met here and framed the State Constitution ; and in October of that year. Sir James Wallace, with a flying squadron of light frigates, ascended the Hudson and anchored off the mouth of Rondout Creek. 3,600 British soldiers landed and marched on Kingston, then a large and wealthy place. There were n<> troops there, and the invaders burnt the entire village. While their homes were in flames the fugitive citizens tried and hung a spy, who liad been seen to cast something into his mouth when he was captured. A strong emetic caused him to throw up a hollow silver bullet, in which was a despatch from Sir Henry Cliuton to Gen. Burgoyne. The iValkill Valley R. R. runs S. W. from Rondout to Goshen (on the Erie Railway) in 102 M. The N. V., Kingston, and Syracuse R. R. is now finished from Rondout to .Stamford (74 M. ; trains in 4^-5 hrs. ; fare, $2.70). The train passes from Rondout to Kingston and crosses Esopus Creek. From IF. Hurley station stages run N. to the * Overloolc Mt. House (500 guests), which is situated on one of the Catskill Mts., and commands an immense view. Lake View Rock overlooks the lonely tarn called Shue's Lake ; and Grant Rock is a favorite view-point, from which are seen the Hudson and Esopus Valleys, the Berkshire Hills, and the Green Mts. The Pilgrim's Pass, Overlook Rock.-Poet's Glen, Pulpit Rock, and the Lovers' Retreat are places of interest in the vicinity. Beyond W. Hurley the line crosses the rugged town of Olive, and ascends the Esopus Valley to Phamicia, whence stages run N. E. into tb.e lofty mountain-town of Hunter. Traversing the defiles of Shandaken, Dean's Comers is reached, from which daily stages run down the Delaware Valley to Margaretville, Andes, and Delhi. Passing several mountain-hamlets on the great W. plateau of the Catskills, the train reaches Moresville, whence stages ascend the mts. to Gilboa, Prattsville, and Windham. (The Overlook Mt. House was burnt in 1875, but is to be rebuilt.) On the E. bank of the Hudson is WildercUff, the former home of a Maryland Episcopalian, who entered the first Methodist movement, preached widely, converted and married Chancellor Livingston's sister, and built this mansion (afterward a famous Methodist head-quarters) in 1799. 1 M. above Wildercliff is EllersUe, the estate of the Hon. Wm. Kelly, with a river-front of 1| M., a finely cultivated park, and a villa 200 ft. above the river. Opposite Rondout (steam-ferry) is Rhinebeck-on- the-Hudson ( PJdne Cliff House j Exchange), near which, on a high bluif, 4* F 82 Route 8. CLERMONT. is the fortress-mansion of the Beekman family, now nearly 200 years old. 2 M. inland is Rldnebeck, Avhich was founded by Wm. Beekman in 1647, and was named for himself and the river of his home-land (Rhine-Beek). Above Rhinebeck is Rokehy, the estate of Wm. B. Astor. The mansion was built by his father-ui-law, John Ai-mstrong, an officer in the Conti- nental army, 1775 - 83 ; author of the "J^ewburgh Letters "; Sec. of State of Penn. (1784-85) ; U. S. Senator from N. Y. (1800-2 and 1S03-4) ; Minister to France (1801 - 10) ; and Sec. of War (1813 - 14). He died at Rokeby in 1843. Barrytoion is a river-side hamlet, from which a road runs E. to Red Hook, a quiet and sequestered old Dutch village. Above Barrytown is Montgomery Place, an elegant villa in a costly park, built by the widow of Gen. Montgomery, who fell m the assault on Quebec in 1775. She was a Livingston, and died after 50 years of widowhood, leav- ing the estate to Edward of that ilk, M. C. from N. Y., 1795-1801; U. S. Dist. -Attorney, 1801-3 ; M. C. from Louisiana, 1823-29; U. S. Sena- tor, 1829-31; Sec. of State, 1831 -33 ; Mmister to France, 1833-35 ; author of the Penal Code of Louisiana ; and member of the Academy of France. N. of Montgomery Place is Annandale, the villa of John Bard, who has also erected and endowed on his estate the fine English Gothic building of St. Stephen's College, and the graceful stone Church of the Holy Innocents. The college is for educating young men for the Episco- pal ministry, and has 7 instructors and 60 - 70 students. 2 M. above Barrytown, near the E. shore, is Cruger's Island, on Avhose S. end stands an ancient Italian ruin, which was imported from the I\Iediterranean at great expense. Near by is the villa of the owner of the island. 5 M. above Annandale is Tirol i, near the old De Peyster mansion, whose owner (a Livingston) saved it from the British torch in 1777, by a liberal dispen- sation of choice wines from his cellar. To the E. is the antiquated village of Upper Red Hook ; and 1 M. N, is Madalin-on-Hudson. Opposite Tivoli (steam-ferry) is Saugerties, a factory-village of 3,731 inhabitants, at the mouth of Esopus Creek (100 M. from New York), which flows from the S. through scenes of placid beauty. Saugerties is from the Dutch Zaegers Kill (Sawyer's Creek, from an ancient saw-mill here). The impending peaks of the Catskills are now seen in the near W. 2 M. above Sauger- ties (W. shore) is Maiden, the head-quarters of the Bigelow Blue Stone Company, which employs 3,500 men and 35 vessels, and delivers annually to the cities 170-200,000 tons of flagging-stone, valued at $1,500,000. Nearly opposite Maiden is Clermont, Avhich was founded by Chancellor Livingston. Robert Livingston, a Scottish gentleman of the family of the Earls of Linlithgow, came to America in 1672, and married a lady of the Schuyler family, the widow of a Van Rensselaer. He lived at Albany, and bought of the Indians great tracts on the Hudson, which were consolidated in 1710 by the royal governor into a. manorial estate of 162,000 acres. He erected a mansion near the present Liulithgo, and HUDSON. Route S. . 83 his son built the lower manor-house at Clermont. The third in the line was Robert R. Livingston, born 1747, a signer of the Declaration of Independence ; M. 0., 1775-77 and 1779-81 ; Sec. of Foreign Affairs, 1781 -83 ; Chancellor of N. Y. State, 1777 - 1801 ; and Minister to France, ISOl - 4 (procuring the cession of Louisiana). He introduced the mei-ino sheep into America, and was early inter- ested in steam navigation. In 1797 he and Nesbit built a small steamer at Tivoli, but it would not work, although Brunei was its engineer. While at Paris (where Napoleon presented him with his miniature and a gold snuff-box) he met Robert Fulton, and in August, 1807, these 2 gentlemen had a steamboat built at New York. It was named the Clerinont, and was popularly known as Fulton's Folly ; but the derision was changed to amazement and applause when she swung out from her dock and ascended to Albany against a head wind in 32 hours. In 1787 John Fitch built and worked a steamboat at Philadelphia ; and in 1789 one h.ad been operated on the Clyde (near Glasgow), but both inventors had given up the idea of the feasibility of steam navigation. In 1777 a raiding party from the British army at Kingston was sent up and destroyed the Clermont manor-houses, but they were soon rebuilt by the family. Passing N. between the high bluffs that shelter the old Palatine villages of East and West Camp, the noble * Catskills are seen on the 1. and the lofty Taghkanick Mts. are in the remote E. The Catskill Mountain House is seen far up on South Mt,, as the .steamboat passes Cat.skill land- ing. (The Cat.skill Mts., see Route 9.) The Prospect Park Hotel is on the 1. ; and on the E. is the picturesque villa of F, E. Churcli, the artist, who is famous for his landscapes painted among the Andes, Hudson ( Worth House, $ 3 a day, on Warren St. ; Waldron House), the capital of Columbia County, is finely situated on a sharply defined plateau on the E. bank of the Hudson and at the head of sliip navigation. It is made a promontory by the broad and shallow N, and S. Bays. Warren St. is the principal thoroughfare, and extends 1^ M. from the Promenade — a small park on the crest of the bluff near the business part of the city, and overlooking the river for a great distance and the defiles of the Catskills and Helderbergs (10-12 M. distant) — to Pros2Ject Hill, a high rounded eminence 500 ft. above the river. Hudson has 8,615 inhabitants, with 3 banks, 2 daily and 4 weekly papers, 13 churches, a Gray Nunnery with 250 pupils, 7 reputable private schooLs, and 2 public libraries. The Court House has a marble Ionic front; and near it is Christ Church, a tall Gothic structure of brown-stone. The Presbyterian church on Warren St. has a massive Saxon tower ; and the Hudson Acad- emy is on Academy Hill. A sliort distance S. of Hudson is Mt. Merino, from which may be seen the Highlands, Helderbergs, Shawangunks, Matteawans, Catskills, Taghkanicks, the Green Mts., the Luzerne Mts. at Lake George, and many leagues of the Hudson. 4 M. N. E. of Hudson, in the Claverack Valley, are the Columbia Sjjrings (Spring House), situ- ated amid pleasant rural scenery, Tlie Hudson and Chatham Branch R, R, runs from Hudson to Chatham Four Corners (see page 61), 17 M, N. E. This line passes (4 M. S. E. of Hudson) the hamlet of Claverack, the seat of the Hudson River Institute (5 - 600 pupils), which is situated on a far-viewing hill, ai\d is used in summer as a boarding-house. 84 Routes. ATHENS. In 1783 a number of mercliants and sea-officers of Providence and Nantncket, during the decadence of commerce which foUowed the Revolution, resolved to emigrate to the upper Hudson country. Tliey formed an association and sent out a committee, who examined various places on the river, and finally chose and purchased the present site of Hudson (so named in 1784). It was made a city in 1785 ; in 1800 it had 4,048 inhabitants ; and in 1805 it became the county-seat. The immigration from Nantucket was very large, and as a consequence, in 1786 Hudson owned 25 A'essels (with more tonnage than N. Y. City then had). In 1790 it became a port of entry, and 2,800 laden sleighs have entered the city, and 15 freighted vessels have cleared in a single day. 6 vessels were kept in the S. At-« lantic seal-fishery ; others were in the whale-fishery, and m 1707 the American Hero brought here from the Pacific the largest cargo of sperm oil that had ever entered a U. S. port. The action of the Napoleonic wars and the embargo swept away the Hudson fleet, and produced great distress in the city. A well-sustained attempt to revive the whale-fishery resulted in a fleet of 14 shii)s owned and equipped here ; but the last one was sold in 1845, and since that time Hudson lins been called " a finished city." At present it is the seat of extensive manufactuj-es. which include 3 blast furnaces (by the river-side), a steam fire-engine factory, ]«aper car-wheel works, R. R. repair-shops, carriage factories, etc. The Hudson and Boston R. R. runs E. to Chatham ; and a daily line of steamers descends the river to N. Y. Hudson was the birthplace of Wm. J. Worth (in 1794), an officer of the War of 1812 ; commandant at West Point, 1820-8 ; general-in-chief of the forces in the Florida War (1840 - 42) ; and a leading officer in the Mexican War (1846-48). He received 4 swords of honor. " Brave, chivalrous, and a good tacti- cian, his manners were popular, and his presence imposing." Here were also born B. M. Norman and Alice B. Haven, authors ; Judge J. W. Edmonds, the Spiritualist polemic ; and F. W. Edmonds, the artist. Opposite Hxadson (steam-ferry hourly) is Athens {Robbins House), with an immense terminal freight-depot of the N. Y. Central R. R. This town exports much hay, brick, lime, and ice, and is bounded on the W. by the nigged Potick Hills. Beyond the Four Mile Point lightliouse is Coxsackie (from the Iroquois Kuxakee, or *'Cut Banks"), a long and rambling village on the W. shore opposite the headland of Newtown Hook, and famous for its shad-fisheries. Coxsackie has 6 churches, a daily paper, and several factories. Stuyvesant Landing (E. shore) is 5 M. from the ancient Dutch inland hamlet of Kiiulerhook (n Dutch word meaning " Children's Point," and said to have been given by Hendrick Hudson on seeing crowds of Indian children watching him from the banks). Martin Van Buren, 8th President of the U. S., was born at Kinderhook in 1782. He Avas Gov. of N. Y. in 1828; Sec. of State, 1829-31 ; Vice-Pres., 1833-37 ; and President, 1837-41. In 1841 and 1848 he was defeated in the Presidential contests ; and he died in 1862, having spent the evening of life on his estate of Lindenwold, at Kinderhook. He opposed slavery, and ad- vocated the integrity of the Republic. New Baltimore is opposite the middle of Schodack Island, which is 3 IVI. long and is covered with broom-corn. Here begin the national dikes for the improvement of navigation. Above New Baltimore (W. bank) is Beeren Island, on whose rocky summit once stood the castle of Rensse- laerstein, pertaining to Killian Van Rensselaer, the Patroon of Albany, and erected in 1643. The counties of Columbia, Rensselaer, Albany, and Greene corner on this island. The steamboat next passes the hamlets of Coeymans (W. ) and Schodack (E. ), and approaches Castleton. Hudson anchored on this reach in 1609. ALBANY. Route S. 85 " One daj' more wafts him np between Schodack and Castleton ; and here he landcid and passed a day witli the nati\'es, greeted with all sorts of barbarous hospitality ; the land ' the finest for cultivation he ever set foot on ' ; the natives so kind and gentle, that when they found he Avould not remain with them over night, and feared that he left them — poor children of nature ! — because he was afraid of their weapons— he whose quarter-deck was heavy with ordnance! — they broke their arrows in pieces, and threw them in the tire." (Edward Ever- ett.) Schodack is from Is-cho-da, "a lire-jilain," and was the council-ground of the Mohegans. Here their great Sachem Aepgin sold his dominions on the E. bank of the Hudson to Killian Van Rensselaer (in 1680). The Mohegans origi- nally occupied the E. bank of the Hudson from German town to its head-waters, and the W. bank from Cohoes to Catskill. Tliey suffered from the attacks of the Mohawks and the early encroachments of the Dutch, and moved E. into Massa- chusetts, and afterwards went to Wisconsin. The Helderberg Mts. are seen on the 1. as the steamer passes Staats Island (with the Staats nianSion, about 200 years old), the Overslaugh bar, and the costly stone dikes built by the U. S. govenmjent to improve the navigation at this point. The immense Catholic Academy of the Sacred Heart is seen on the 1., on the hills over Kenwood, at the mouth of Norman's Kill (the Indian Tawasentha, "place of many dead") ; and the populous heights of Albany draw near, crowned by the Capitol, the Cathedral, and the City Hall. Albany. Hotels. —* Delavan House, on Broadway, near the R. R. station, $4. .50 a day: * Congress Hall, near the Capitol; *8tanwix Hall, alongside the station, fronting Broadway, ^:5 a day ; American ; City. Keading-Kooms. — The * State Library, at the Capitol ; the Young Men's A.ssociation, on S. Pearl St.; the Y. M. C. A., 40 State St., near Broadway. Horse-Cars. — On State St., Washington Ave., and the Bowery to W. Al- bany: on Pearl St. S. to Kenwood; from S. Ferry St., along Broadway, to W. Troy, TV M. Ferry-boats run to Greenbush. Kailroads. — The N: Y. Central and Hudson River, to New York, 142 M. ; to IJullalo, 298 M.: the Boston and Albany, to Boston, 201 M. (Osgood's New England, Routes 21 and 22) ; the Rensselaer and Saratoga, to Rutland, 94 M. ; the Albany and Susquehanna, to Binghampton, 142 M. Trains on the R. and S. and the N. Y. Central lines leave for Troy almost half-hourly during the day. Steamboats leave Albany for the Hudson River ports and N. Y. City'morn- ing and evening during the season of navigation. Albany, the capital of the State of New York, occupies a picturesque and commanding position on the W. bank of the Hudson River, 144 M. from N. Y. City. It has about 80,000 inhabitants, 62 churches, 9 banks and 6 savmgs-banks, 8 daily papers, and 17 masonic societies. The city has many manufactories ; and its commerce is large and lucrative, by reason of the convergence of important railroad and canal systems here at tide-water. Vast quantities of Western produce pass to and through Albany by means of the Erie Canal, which has here a great terminal basin, shielded by a pier 80 ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. The river is spanned by a railroad-bridge of stone and iron, erected at a cost of .$1,150,000. The city receives its water-supply from Rensselaer Lake (5 M. W.) by a fine system of works which cost over $1,000,000. 86 Route S. ALBANY. Broadway is a wide business street near the river; and the parallel streets, Pearl and Green, are also devoted to trade. State St. runs from Broadway, up a steep hill, to the Capitol Square, on the plateau W. of the city. The Old State House is a plain freestone building, which dates from 1807, and fronts on a park of 3 acres. Farther back is the * State Library, occupying a neat fii-e-proof building. There are here about 85,000 volumes (especially rich in early American history), many pictures (of historic rather than artistic value), and a collection of curiosities which includes the original Andre papers, the MSS. of Sir Wm. John- son and Gov. George Clinton, the original of President Lincoln's Eman- cipation Proclamation, bronze medallions of 74 French monarchs (pre- sented by Napoleon III.), the dress-sword* of Washington (presented to him by Frederick William of Prussia), his pistol, rolls of family ex- penses, drawing and surveying instruments, and the draft of his Farewell Address. The * New Capitol is W. of the Old State House, and is being slowly advanced at enormous expense. It is of light-colored stone, in Renaissance architecture, with certain features adapted from the Louvre Palace, the Paris Hotel de Ville, and the Maison de Commerce at Lyons, There will be a grand terrace on the E., whence bold stairways will lead to the loggia. The inner court is 137 by 92 ft., and the tower is to be 320 ft. high. The building is fire-proof, and occupies the highest ground in the city, 170 ft. above the Hudson. It will be visible for many leagues. The * State Hall is an elegant building of Sing Sing marble, with an Ionic portico and a dome. It was completed in 1842, at a cost of % 300,000, and contains several important offices of the State. Near by is the City Hall, in classic arcliitecture, and built of marble, with a recessed Ionic portico above the first story. Nearly opposite is the red sandstone build- ing (in Italian architecture) of the old and famous Albany Academy. At the Bureau of Military Statistics (219 State St.; open daily to visitors) are many memorials of war, and also an interesting collection of the colors of the N. y. soldiers of the Republic in the Secession War. The State Geological and Agricultural Hall is on State St., and contains vast and valuable * collections in all departments of natural history, agi'icultural products and implements, ancient relics of the Indians, and the skeleton of the Cohoes mammoth. At the foot of State St. is the massive Exchange ; and to the S. on S. Pearl St. are the ne-vv City Buildings, in Florentine architecture, near the Young Men's Association Hall. The State Arsenal is a massive castellated buikUng in the valley at the corner of Eagle and Hudson Sts., and tlie State Normal School is at Lodge and Howard Sts. The Albany Medical College is an old and reputable institution (Eagle and Jay Sts. ), with large anatomical and pathological museums. The Law School is near the ALBANY. Routes. 87 Medical College, and is one of the most famous legal institutions in the liepublic. 1^ M. S. W. of the city are the buildings of the Almshouse, Insane and Fever Hospitals, and Industrial Schools, all on one large farm. There are several other charitable institutions about Albany, and numerous public and private schools of high grade. On a hill in the N, part of the city is the Dudley Observatory, richly endowed by Mrs. Dudley, and fur- nished with a costly collection of astronomical instruments and books. The Catliolic * Cathedral of the hmnaculate Conception is a well-finished and costly building on Eagle St., with far-famed windows of stained glass: and the spacious and lofty Gothic * Church of St. Joseph, on Ten Broeck St., is worthy of inspection. St. Peter's Episcopal Church (corner of Lodge and State Sts. ) is an elegant Gothic building, with a service of communion-plate which was given by Queen Anne to the Onondaga In- dians. At the S. W. corner of the church is buried Lord Howe, who was killed at Ticonderoga in 1758. Several of the other churches of tlie city are notable either for quaintness or beauty. To the N., near Broadway, is the * Van Rensselaer Manor House and park, an interesting old build- ing on the site first occupied by Killian Van Rensselaer. Tliis gentleman received from the Dutch king, in 1637, a grant of 1,150 square M., em- bracing most of the present counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and Columbia, and here he ruled in feudal state. After over 200 years of this govern- ment, the tenants became insurrectionary, and were repressed by the State troops. The anti-rent troubles in 1846 led to a curtailment of the prerogatives of the family, but the Van Rensselaers still remain powerful and wealthy. The old Schuyler mansion was built in 1760, and stands on Schuyler St., near S. Pearl St. It was the home of Gen. Philip Schuyler, and was visited by Lafayette, Steuben, Rochambeau, Reidesel, and many other eminent officers. The Albany Rural Cemetery is N. of the city, near W. Troy. To the E., across tlie Hudson, is Greenhush, a busy rail- road suburb, back of which is the Mother House of the Sisters of Mercy. Albany occupies the site of the ancient Mohawk village of Seaghneghtada ("beyond the pine-woods"), which was visited by Hudson in 1G09. In 1G12 a Dutch trading-jiost was founded here ; and Albany is therefore the oldest Euro- l)ean settlement (still inhabited) within the 13 original States. It was fortified in 1(114, and was named Beaverwyck, from the numbers of beavers found there. In 1G16 a trading-post and 13-gun fort was built by Corstiaensen on the island off Mt. Hope, and was called Fort Nassau, or the Kasteel. This work was damaged by a flood, and in 1023 the Dutch W. India Co. built Ft. Orange on the site of Albany, and settled the place with Walloons. The garrison was worsted in med- dling in a civil war among the Indians, and the new colony was partly abandoned. After their Admiral Heyn had captured tiie Spanish "Silver Fleet," the enriched W. India Co. resolved to extend their limits in America, and established the feudal order of Patroons. Broad domains, monopolies, and powers were granted to such of the Company as would found here a colonic of 50 vassals ; and to theiu was given the title of jiatroon. In 1637, Killian Van Rensselaer, a pearl- merchant of Amsterdam, founded and populated about Albany the domain of Rensselaerwyck, 48 x 24 M. in area. In 164.3, Rev. Joliannes Megapolensis erected a church (on Church St.) ; and in 1G47 2 large whales ascended to the Mohawk, and 88 Route 8. TROY. teirifled the bm-ghers. In 1652, Gov. Stuyvesant came tip with Dutch troops from N. Y., and took down the feudal flag of Van Rensselaer. Meanwhile the colony had become tlie chief centre of the American fnr-trade, and bands of Indian hunters from the remotest forests brought liere the products of the cliasc. Sept. 10, lti64, after the fall of New Amsterdam, Carteret occupied Beaverwyck with a British force ; and it was tlien named Albany, in honor of James, Duke of York and Albany (afterwards King James II.), the proprietor of N. Y. In ItJOG it had GOO inhaliilauts, on 3 streets (the present State and Pearl Sts. and Broadway), and was surroundetl by palisades dependent on a citadel. This work had 4 bastions, 9 guns, an.l 150 soldiers, and occupied the site of St. Peter's Church (State St.). The early government was a military despotism, and the great councils with the Indian tribes were held here for many years. The burghers were plain and frugal in tlieir habits, and lived in quaint Netherlandish houses, whose gables faced the street. The Dutch language was predominant here for a century after tlui Engli.sh conquest. In 1686 Albany was made a city, and in 1798 it became the capital of the State. An inter-provincial Congress which met here in 17o4 formed such a plan of union for the colonies that concerted action was possible when later events required it. It was the centre of Revolutionary power in N. Y. alter 1776, was the head- quarters of the army in 1S12, and had great camps during the Secession War (at Greenbush, across the river). Since the completion of the Erie and Champlain Canals and the extensive systems of railroads which converge here, Albany has continued to increase in wealth and prosi)erity. It is noted for its stove-foundries, the N. Y. Central Railroad workshoi)s, great cattle-yards, and lumber markets (57 firms engaged, receiving, in 1870, 452,363,000 ft. of boards, 21,588,000 shingles, and 17,769,100 lbs. of staves). There are immense breweries here, and the Albany ale is famed for its excellence. The new State Capitol will be one of the finest Re- naissance buildings in the world, and will probably cost $15,000,000. Among the natives of Albiuiy were Henry Barclay, the missionary to the Mohawks ; Gen. Lewis Benedict, who was killed at the Battle of Pleasant Hill, La., in 1864 ; A. W. Bradford, the jurist ; Wm. A. Butler, the author; Gen. J. B. Carr, Senator Roscoe Conkling, Sir Cornelius Cuyler of the British Army, Gen. Peter Gansevoort ; Francis Bret Harte. the poet and humorist ; Prof. Joseph Henry, the scientist ; Wm. and Phili]! Livingston, the Revolutionary statesmen ; Wm. Page, the artist ; Peter and Philip Schuyler, Gozen Van Schaick, Abraham Ten Broeck, and the Van Rensselaers, all eminent nulitary officers in the earlier wars. The Boston and Albany R. R. runs S. E. from Albany to the frontier of Mass. in about 40 M. (and to Boston, 201 M., in S -9 hrs.). The line crosses the Hudson on a new and costly bridge, and passes S. through the town of Greenbush and near the river. Schodaelc station is 2 M. E. of Castleton landing ; and on the E. Bunker Hill is seen. The train descends to Kinderhook (village of Niverville), at the outlet of Kinderhook Lake, which is 4 M. around. Beyond Cliatham Centre the train reaches Clwtlmm Four Corners, whence the Hai'lem (Route 7), Harlem Extension, and Hudson & Boston Railroads diverge. The line runs thence to the N. E. by E. Chatham and Canaan (near Queechy Lake and Lelxinon Springs), and at State Line station enters tlie State of Mass. (State Line to Boston, see Osgood's New England, Routes 21 and 22). Troy. Hotels: — * Mansion House, on Washington Square ; Troy House, corner of River and 1st St. ; American, corner of Fulton and 3d St. ; and several smaller and less expensive houses near the R. R. station. Readiiig-Rooms. — The Young Men's Association, in the Athenaum ; the Catholic Library Association, 68 Congress St. Amusements at the Opera and the new Music Iltdl. Horse-Cars on Congress St. and Pawling Ave. to the suburb of Albia ; from River St. througli Greenbush to Cohoes ; from the Troy Iron Works on Wynant's Kill, by 2d, Adams, and River Sts. to Lansingburgh. A steam-ferry crosses the Hudson at the foot of Ferry St. ; and there are skiff-ferries at Broadway and Washington St. Steamboats leave for New York morning and evening, stoi)ping at Albany and several of the river ports. TROY. Route 8. 89 Railroads — from the Union Depot. N. Y. Central & Hudson River, for Greenbush, Albany, New York, and the West; the Rensselaer & Saratoga, for Albany, Saratoga, and Rutland ; the Troy & Boston, lor Vermont, the Hoosac Tunnel, and Boston. Troy, the capital of Rensselaer County, is situated at the head of navi- gation on the Hud.son River, and is famous for its extensive manufactures. The greater portion of the city is on the alluvial plain near the river, and is crossed by the streams called Poesten's Kill and Wynant's Kill, which de- scend from the high bluffs to the E. The hill on the E. is called Mt. Ida (the source of several destructive laml-slides) ; and that to the N. E. is ^ft. Olym- pus. The city proper has 4G,4G5 inhabitants, and the suburb of W. Troy has 10,693. It has 9 banks, 5 savings-banks, 3 daily and 6 weekly papers, and 45 churches. The iron-works here are of great magnitude, makuig spikes, horseshoes, nails, stoves, engines, safes, etc. ; the Meneely foun- dry (at W. Troy) is famous for its bells; and in the S. part of the city are extensive Bessemer steel woi'ks. The car-works are the largest in the State, and there are manufactories of cotton and woollen goods, collars, hosiery, boots and shoes, paper, flour, beer, and marbleized slate. River St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs parallel with the Hud- son. The new buildings on Washington Square and the Savings-Bank on State St, are worthy of notice. On Seminary Park (Congress St.) are the classic porticos of the 1st Presbyterian Church and the County Court House, between which is the building of the old Troy Female Semiuais', founded by Mrs. Emma Willard in 1821, and for many years the leading school of its class in the country (having 7,000 alumnre). The Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute was founded by Patroon Van Rensselaer in 1824, and is a well-known school of mathematics and the useful arts. Its buildings are near 8th St., in the vicinity of the Troy Hospital (Sisters of Charity) and the Mary Warren Free Institute. E. of the city on Mt. Ida is * »S'^. Joseph's Theulofjical Seminary of the Province of N. Y., a Roman Catholic institution occupying the great buildings (hi Byzantine architect- ure) which were originally erected for the Troy University (Methodist). The tall round towers of the Seminary are visible for miles; and the * view from the Park, or from the Polytechnic Institute (above the Union Depot), embraces many leagues of the populous Hudson Valley, with Ti'oy outspread below. Horse-cars run S. E. from the Seminary near Marshall's Infirmary and Ida Lake to the factory-village of Albia. The Catholic Orphan Asylums are large buildings in the S. part of the city. There are several other charitable institutions here ; and the educational facilities are very good. Near 1st, 2d, and 3d Sts. are the best houses and the finest churches of the city. The cemetery has pleasant grounds, and the Gris- wold monument is worthy of notice. W. Troy has 42 manufactoiies, and is the seat of the Watervliet A rse- nal, a lirst-class national institution for the manufacture, storage, and 90 Routed. THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. repair of war vmteriel and military eqiiipage. During the Secession War 1,500 persons were employed here day and night. There are 40 buildings, on a park of 105 acres. The grounds are kept very neatly, and are adorned with trophy-batteries captured at Yorktown, Stony Point, Sara- toga, and other battle-tields.i Troy occupies an estate which was leased in 1720 from the Van Rensselaer Manor by Berick Vauderheyden. In 1786 the fiirm w:vs laid out as a town at the instance of a company of New-Englanders, by whom it was settled. In 1789 it contained 12 dwellings, and received from its freeholders the name of Troy, dis- placing the Patroon's name of Paanpaack (" a Field of Corn "). The corajiletion of the Erie Canal gave a great impetus to the Trojan prosperity, and the city has continued to grow in spite of several disastrous lires. The population in 1810 was 3,895 ; in 1830, 11,550 ; in 1850, 28,785 ; and in 1870, 40,485. 9. The Catskill Mountains. The usual avenue of api)roach is by the Hudson Uivcr. The steamboat which leaves N. Y. (Pier 40) at 8.;}0 a. m., arrives at Catskill at 3.20 p. m. ; and the boat leaving Albany at 8.30 a. m. arrives at 11 a. m. Boats leave N. Y. (from the foot of Franklin St.) at 6 p. m. ; and minor lines run from Catskill to Albany and New- burgli. Several trains daily on the Hudson River R. R. (see page 02) stop at Catskill Station, whence a ierry-boat crosses to Catskill. Stages run from the landing to the village. Stages leave Catskill daily for the chief hotels among the mts. (to the Catskill Mt. House, 12 M. ; fare, $2.50). The mts. are sometimes entered by way of Rondout and the Overlook Mt. llouse (see page 81). Catskill {Irving House, new and comfortable; Gunn's Hotel, neat and inexpensive) is about \ M. from the river, and is the capital of Greene County. It has 3,791 inhabitants, 5 churches, 2 banks, and 2 newspapers, and is the seat of a large coiuitry trade. \ M. N. is the * Prospect Park Hotel, a new and elegant summer hotel, situated among extensive grounds on a plcxteaii which commands a pleasing view. ^ M. W. of Catskill is the * Grant House, on a promontory over the valley, and looking across to the mts. The Catskill Creek flows N. W. through charming rural scenerj^ and the Cauterskill Valley extends to the S. near the old King's Road, to the High Falls, 9 M. distant. In a family mansion near the village lived Thomas Cole, the artist, who painted the celebrated series called "The Voyage of Life," and "The Course of Empire." At the time of his death he had on the easel a new series, entitled "The Cross and the World." Tlie shores of Catskill were first discovered by Hudson, in 1609, and here he was visited by many peaceable Indians bearing fruits and game, l:nit the merry Dutch marinei's amused themselves by getting the natives drunk. The Catslcill Mts., or Katzbergs, were so named by the Dutch on account of tlie cataniounls witli which they were infested. The Indians called them the Onti- (ji-ad, or Mts. of the Sky, by reason of their cloud-like appearance. Their traditions held that among these peaks was the treasury of storms and sunshine for the Hudson Valley, guarded by a powerful spirit, who made clouds and thunder- storms, and kept the day and the night imprisoned, letting out one at a time. 1 In March, 1874, this artillery was advertised as about to be sold at auction for old iron. Such a. disposal of trophies of victory must be stigmatized as almost sacrilegious. CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. ~1' 1. Mountain House. 2. Laurel Haiise. 3. Haines House. 4. Clifton House. 5. Cautei'sTcill Clove. 6. Plattekill Clove. 7. Stony Clove. 8. Grand Viexo Hotel. THE CATSKILL MOUNTAINS. Route 9. 91 She made the new moons, and cut np the old ones into stars. Many mischievous imps haunted the forests and dells, and lured the Indian hunters to^ places of ex- treme peril. The Dutch sent several expeditions to these mts. in search of gold and silver, in which quest they met with some success. The mountaineers of the present day are partly descended from the old Dutch settlers, and partly from the insurgents who fled from Mass. after Shays's rebellion. The highland towns of Greene and Ulster Counties have hundreds of small bnarding-houses, which are usually well filled in summer, and the district aflFords a favorite field for pedestrian and artistic tours. Travellers who propose to make a long sojourn here would do well to buy Rockwell's " The Catskill Mts." The main road from Catskill to the mts. leads out over the fair valley and crosses the Catskill Creek. 6 M. from the village the Mt. Retreat, or Half- Way House, is passed, and the ancient Dutch hamlet of Kiskatom is seen on the r. The boarding-houses of the Saxes and others are near the N. slope, and the road soon traverses the narrow glen which has been immortalized by Irving's legend of "Rip Van Winkle." The well-con- structed road thence ascends the mt. by many curves and galleries, sur- rounded by trees and cliffs. At the Rip Van Winkle House, in Sleepy Hollow, the road turns to the 1. and soon leads within sight of the white colonnades of the Mt. House. The * Catskill Mt. House accommodates 600 guests (.$ 4.50 a day; $25-30 a week), and is situated on a broad rock platform on Pine Orcliard Mt., 2,212 ft. above the river. The ** view from this point includes an area of 10,000 .square M., in 4 States. " A line drawn from N. to S. through tlie sphere of vision divides it into 2 equal parts. The W. half is mountain, falling off in a line of rock parapet ; the E. is a vast semicircle of blue landscape, ^ M. lower On the horizon the Hudson Highlands, the Berkshire and Green Mts., unite theirchains, forming a continuous line of misty bhie." The Hudson and its broad valley, studded with white vil- lages, are outstretched below for many leagues. This view has been enthusiasti- cally described by some of the best American authors, and Harriet Martineau was more moved by it tlian by Niagara itself. The mirage, or spectral cloud reflec- tions, the sunrise over the Taghkanicks, and the raging of a thunder-storm, are objects of special interest here. The North Mt. commands a still broader prospect, and is often visited from the hotel by a path which passes the cavern called the Bear's Den. The South Mt. is ascended by a pleasant path that leads up by Pudding- Stone Hall and the Fairy Spring; and the view is over a vast area, includ- ing also certain peaks of N. J, A short distance back of the Mt. House are the two CautersJcill Lakes {QQ.ch. 1^ M. around, and abounding in fish), between which the road passes. An old road leads S. from the hotel to Moses Rock and the Grand View House. 1^-2^ M. distant (by path or road) is * SchutVs Laurel House (200 guests ; $ 15 - 25 a week), situated at the head of a deep and well-wooded ravine. Just below the house are the lovely * Cauterskill Falls, where the outlet of the lakes springs over the cliffs in two leaps, the first being 175 ft. high, and the second 80 ft. The natural flow of water being insufficient (especially in summer) to dis- play the best effect of the Falls, a dam has been built at the verge of the cliff, and the water is'turned on at certain times and after the payment of a small fee. Long stairways descend to the foot of the Fulls, and some 92 RoideO. PALENVILLE. fine rugged scenery (including the * Bastion Falls, \ M. below the second fall) may be seen by scrambling down the ravine to the road in the Cauter- skill Clove (1 M. from the upper fall). Sunset Rock is 1^ M. from the Laurel House (by a well-defined forest-path), and overlooks the resound- ing ravine, High Peak and Round Top, the Hudson River and Valley, and the hamlet of Palcnsville. Prospect Rock is reached by a pleasant path leading W. 1 M. from the Laurel House. Palenville is 10 M. from Catskill and 4-5 M. from the Mt. House. It is a pleasant hamlet at the mouth of the Cauterskill Clove, and is the favorite resort of artists. There are several large boarding-houses here, and the prices are S 8 - 15 a week (Cass ; Goodwin ; Hawver ; Ward ; Peck ; Winantz ; Crapsey, and others). Over Palenville, on a sharp projecting spur of S. Mt., is the Grand View House, visible far over the valley. From the hamlet the wide ravine called the Cautcrsville Clove runs W. into the mts., and is traversed by the Hunter Turnpike. The Clove leads upward for 3 M. to the lofty plateau, and passes very pretty bits of brook scenery. Tlie High Rocks and the * Fawn's Leap Falls (fee, 25c.) are in this ravine; and near the head is the Haines House, where is the entrance to * Haines's Falls {{ec, 25c.), a fine cascade 150 ft. high, with several minor falls above and below. Near the bridge where the Clove road crosses the brook down in the glen is the peculiar rock which assumes the form of Washington's profile. There are several graceful cascades on the slopes of High Peak (1. of the road) ; and the Cauterskill may be followed to the r. from the road by the Bastion and Cauterskill Falls to the Laurel House. On the plateau near the head of the Clove are several large boarding-houses (Haines's; Scribner's; the Clifton, etc.). Tlie road passes on to the hamlets of Tannersville {Rogen's Hotel ; Mt. Home) and Hxmter {Breeze Laion House) ; and near Hunter a road diverges to the S. W. and passes down to the Esopus Valley, through Stonyj Clove, which abounds in trout. Hmiter is in a narrow glen which was settled by Cow Boys (an order of border banditti) after the Revolution. Near it is Hunter Mt. (4,082 ft. high), and also the sharp peak called the Colonel's Cliair. Stony Clove is 2 M. from the hamlet, and within its sunless depths ice remains throughoiit the year. The Devil's Tombstone is a lofty rock in this defile. Near the Clove is the sportsman's resort known as Gray's Hotel. Hxmter is 20 M. from Catskill and 4 M. beyond Tan- nersville. Farther W. are the profound glens of Lexington ; and 36 M. W. of Catskill is the thriving village of Prattsville (2 inns), near the far- viewing Pratt's Rocks (on which are cut busts of the Pratts, who founded the town). A road leads up the valley from Catskill to Cairo (10 M.), and S. Durham (16 M. ), and then crosses the mts. to Witidham (26 M.), a lofty town Avhose hamlets receive many summer visitors. ■ The Plattekill Clove is 6 M. S. of the Cauterskill Clove, and may be ALBANY TO MONTREAL. Route 10. 93 entered from the plains of Saugerties by a road running along the foot of the nits, from Palenville, or from the plateau near Tannersville. It is a deep descending gorge between massive cliffs, and is traversed by a falling brook and a rugged road. On the N. are High Peak and Round Top ; and on the S. is the Overlook Mt. (see page 81). Dibble's House is in this Clove, 8 M. from Hunter, and is near the Black Chasm Falls, which ai'e 300 ft. high. * High Peak is the most prominent object in all this region, and is often ascended, even by ladies. The path is rugged and long, and begins near Haines's Falls. The * view from the summit (3,804: ft. high) is said to be the most extensive in this region. Next S. E. of High Peak is the symmetrical B.ound Top (3,718 ft. high) ; and these two summits are isolated from the others of the range by the deep passes of the Cauterskill and Plattekill Cloves. Blackliead is a steep and symmetrical peak 5-6 M. N. of the Mt. House. There remain several hundred square miles in Ulster and Greene Counties, explored but unchronicled, tliinly inhabited, and covered with tall and nameless mts. ; adorned with lofty cascades, clothed with primeval forests, and traversed by many picturesque trout-streams. 10. Albany to Montreal. The most direct route is by the Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R. to Rutland, and thence N. by the Central Vermont R. R. Drawing-room and sleeping (^ai-s are attached to the through trains, and the line traverses an interesting and pictur- esque country. Summer tourists, to whom time is no object, will prefer the way by Lakes George and Chami)lain (Routes 11 and 12), or by Lake Chamjilain alone, taking the steamer at Whitehall. (A new railroad is beiiig built from Whitehall along the W. shore of Lake Chami)lain to Montreal, and will probably 1)e o]tened to travel in 1875). Fares, Albany to Saratoga, §1.10 ; to Lake Cham plain (White- hall), $2.45 ; to Rutland, $3.65. Stations, Albany ; Cemetery, 4 M. ; W. Troy, 6 ; Cohoes, 9 ; Waterford, 11 : Junction, 12 (here the Albany Division joins the main line, coming from Troy, 6 M. distant) ; Meclianicsville, 18 ; Round Lake, 24 ; Ballaton, 32 ; Saratoga, 38 ; Gansevoort's, 49 ; Moreau, 54 ; Fort Edward, 55 (branch to Glen's Falls, inC M.) ; Dunham's Basin, 58 ; Sn)ith's Basin, 63 ; Fort Ann, 67 ; Comstock's. 71 : White- liall (Junction, 77 ; I^ake Champlain, 79) ; Fairhavcn, 85 ; Hvdeville, 88 ; Castle- ton, 95 ; W. Rutland, 102 ; Centre Rutland, 104 ; Rutland, 106. Stations on the Central Vermont R. R. Rutland, li)6 M. from Albany ; Sutherland Falls, 113 ; Pittsford, 116 : Brandon, 123 ; Leicester Junction, 128 ; Salisbury, 133 ; Middle- bury, 139 ; Brooksville, 143 ; New Haven, 147 ; Vergennes, 153 ; Ferrisburgh, 155 ; N. Ferrisburgh, 158 ; Charlotte, 162 ; Shelburne, 167 : Burlington, 174 ; Winooski, 177 ; Essex Junction. 182 ; Colchester, 180 ; Milton, 193 ; Georgia, 197 ; St. Albans, 207 ; St. Johns, 250 ; Montreal, 277. The S. terminus of the R. & S. R. R. is at Troy, and trains from Al- bany connect with the main line at Albany Junction. The line passes the large lumber docks near the outlet of the Erie Canal, and then runs N. by the beautiful Albany Rural Cemetery to W. Troy, with tlie great city of Troy on the E., over which are the towers of St. Joseph's Semi- nary (see page 89). The Mohawk River is crossed at Cohoes, a prosperous manul'acturing city at Cohoes Falls, with 15,357 inhabitants, 7 churches. 94 Route 10. BALLSTON SPA. and 2 weekly papers. On the immense water-power derived by hydraulic canals from above the long dam are large factories for making paper, furniture, cotton goods, axes, bar-iron, hardware, etc., aggregating 310,000,000 annually. Near Cohoes is the new and costly State Dam ; and 3 M. above, the Erie Canal crosses the river in a stone aqueduct 1,137 ft. long, resting on 26 piers. The falls at Cohoes are 900 ft. wide, amid rocky ledges and cliffs, and fall 78 ft. (40 of which are perpendicu- lar). The train passes on to the large factory-village of Water/urd, on the Hudson; runs by the Albany Junction, and traverses a long intervale between the Hudson River and the Champlain Canal. The line then deflects to the W. and passes the thread-factories of Mechanicsville and Round Lake (near the celebrated Metliodist camp-ground). Station, Ballston Spa (* Sans Souci Hotel; Balhton House, and others), the capi- tal of Saratoga County, with 5,000 inhabitants and several factories. The Spa was widely renowned as a summer resort many years ago, and still has many visitors. The Artesian Lithia Spring was discovered in 1868, and flows from a depth of 650 ft. It is recommended for the cure of rheumatism, gout, gravel, and several other maladies, and contains 1,233J grains of mineral matter to each gallon, of which nearly 8 grains are of the bi-carbonate of lithia. Tlie Sans So2ici Spouting Spring contains 986^ grains of mineral matter to each gallon, of which 572 are of chloride of sodium, and 274 are of the bi-carbonates of lime and magnesia. It is on tlie grounds of the Sans Souci Hotel, a large building which was erected in 1804. There are other deep sprhigs in the village A branch R. R. nms S. W. from Ballston to Schenectady, in 17 M. 7 M. beyond the Spa the train passes (on the r. ) the great hotels of Saratoga Springs. Hotels.— * Congress Hall, uloii-;siac(>f Cngruss Park, has 1,016 ft. of frontage (on 3 streets), with broad piazzas, roof pronienaaes, and fine imrlors. It was built in 18GS, and is of an iniiaising form of arcliitecture (1,'JOO guests). The ♦Grand Union Hotel is opposite Congress Hall, and has a frontage (on Broadway) of 1.304 ft., with 1 M. of piazzas, 2 M. of halls, 13 acres of carpets and marble flooring, and 824 rooms (from .^ 21 to $ 28 a week). The office is adorned with mar- ble columns and frescos. The *Grand Hotel, opposite Congress Park, is richly fur- nished and dec-orat.'d, and (vares for 1,000 guests. The New * United States Hotel is solidly built of l)rick, with 1,100 rooms, at a cost of over sf 1,000,000. It fronts on Broadway and Division Sts. for 000 ft., and has immense i)arlors and dining- halls, and airy colonnades. The * Clarendon is an aristocratic resort (500 guests), amid stately elm groves, opposite Congress Park ; and the Everett House, in the same vicinity, accommodates 200 guests. The American (on Broadway) accommodates 450 guests ; tlie Marvin House (corner of Broadway and Division Sts.), 250 ; the Columbian, 200 ; and the Continental (on Washington St.), 200. Besides those above named, there are 42 hotels in and near the village, together with several great Avater-eure establishments under the care of experienced doc- tors, and many quiet and inexpensive boarding-houses. The charges at the prin- cipal hotels are ^^5 a day, $ 25-85 a week, while every variety of price and accom- modation may be found among the smaller hotels. Pleasant quarters may be found in the boarding-houses for $8-20 a week. (Lists of hotels and boarding-houses, with locations and prices, in Dearborn's " Saratoga," 25c. ; Allen's " Handbook is scientific and medical, 75c.) The AVindsor (400 guests) is a new first-class hotel, opposite the Clarendon. SARATOGA SPRINGS. Route 10. 95 Carriages. — 50c. each passenger for a course within the village limits (bag- Eige extra). Omnibuses run frequently to the springs bej'und the village, and to Saratoga Lake. A small steamer plies on the lake. Stages run daily to iSchuyler- ville (12 M. E.) and the river villages. Amusements. — There are nightly hops in the ball-rooms of the large hotels, and gi-and balls once a week at each of tliese houses. Guests pay S 1 for admis- sion to the balls, which are very brilliant. Music is discoursed by the bands connected with the hotels several times daily, ,and promenades take place in the parks, parlors, and piazzas. Dramatic and literary entertainments in the village halL The races come off in July and August (second week) on one of the best of the American race-courses (1 M. from Congress Park). The swiftest horses are entered at these famous contests, and some of the most remarkable races of the past decade have taken place there. Aquatic sports on Saratoga Lake. Churclies. — The Methodist and the Episcopal societies have fine buildings on Washington St., near the Grand Union. The Baptist Church is on the same street, and the Presbyterian Church is on Upper Broadway. The Catholics meet at their church on S. Broadway (near the Clarendon), and the Congregationalists on Phila St. (over the Post-Oflice). The Y. M. C. A. jiarlors and reading-room are in the Town Hall (corner Broadway and Church St.). Railroads. — To New York, by through express (without change) on the Hud- son River R. R., in 5.^ hrs. (186 M.), or to Albany by train, and thence to New York by the river-steamers. To Philadeliihia (page 319) byway of Schenectady and Binghamton. To Bo.ston, by the Hoosac Tunnel, by Rutland i'230 M. in it hi-s., without change), or by the Boston and Albany R. R. To Chicago (841 M.), by Schenectady, and thence by the N. Y. Central and its Western connections. Saratoga is 38 M. from Albany, 45 M. from Lake George, 202 M. from Montreal, 311 M. from Niagara Falls, 237 M. from the Wiiite Mts., and 412 M. from Wash- ington. The Adirondack Railroad runs fioni Saratoga to North Creek (57 M.). Saratoga Springs, one of the foremost summer resorts of America and of the world, is situated in Eastern New York, about midway be- tween N. Y. City and Montreal. Like Newport by the sea, it is often called " the Queen of American watering-places " ; and this dual sover- eignty is generally acknowledged. The village is situated on a plateau 10-12 M. W. of the Hudson River, and has a resident population of about 9,000. The hotel system of Saratoga is iinequalled elsewhere in the world, and, although equal to the accommodation of 15-18,000 guests, it is taxed to its utmost capacity during the month of August (the season opens early in June). Broachvay is the main street, and ex- tends for several miles N. and S., with the chief hotels near its centre, and a succession of villas beyond. Circular St. and Lake Avenue are also famed for their elegant summer residences, while large medical establish- ments and boarding-houses are found on the quieter side-streets. The village is at its brightest in August, when it is thronged by visitors from all parts of the Republic and from Europe ; while over 3,000 private carriages, together Avith the cavalcades from the public livery-stables, join in the parade of fashion on Broadway and the Boulevard. Although the greater part of the visitors come from the central Atlantic States, yet the number from beyond that district is so great as to give a continental, or even a cosmopolitan, flavor to the summer society. The merry music of the bands, the regular processions of elegant carriages on the fashion- able drives, the crowds gathering about the springs at the hours for drinking, the brilliant hops and the world-renowned balls at the grand 96 Route 10. SARATOGA SPRINGS. hotels, and the surging of the multitude toward the railroad-station at the time of the incoming trains, furnish endless resources for observation and amusement. Congress Park is a pleasant ground for a ramble, and consists of a low ridge sweejnng around the Congress and Columbian Springs. It is opposite the chief hotels, and is well laid out in paths, witli a lake, a line of cottages, and many other neat embellishments which were added in 1876. N. of the Park is the Indian Camp, where a band of French lialf-breeds and Indians sojoxirn during the summer, carrying on a lucrative trade in bead-work, baskets, moccasins, and other small wares. The Circular Railway is near the camp, and is supposed to afford visitors a beneficial exercise. A little way N. of the camp (on the r. side of Circular St. ) is the Temjile Grove Seminary, whose fine building is used during the summer as a boarding-house for iamilies. On the same street, just beyond the Seminary, is tlie Drs. Strong's Institute (200 guests), for the pi-actice of the water, vacuum, and movement cures. 1^ M. N. of the Park are the hotel and driving-park at Glen MitcJiell, with finely ar- ranged grounds and shady groves. The mineral springs rise in a stratum of Potsdam sandstone, near a great break, or displacement, of tlie strata underlying tlie Saratoga Valley, and reach the sur- face by passing through a bed of blue clay. Most of the s]mngs are owned by stock companies, one of which has a capital of $1,000,000, and controls the Con- gress, Columbian, and Empire Springs. The process of boring artesian \vells has been introduced with much profit, and some of the most valuable of the new sources have been discovered in that way ($175,000 has been offered for the Geyser Spring). Immense quantities of the Avaters are sent away to all parts of the United States, for the treatment of invalids at home, though the processes of bottling and packing are difficult and costly. In the year 1866, 300,000 bottles were sent away from the Empire Spring alone. Great quantities of artificial imi- tations of the waters are also sold in the American cities. The principal ingre- dients are carbonic acid and salt, with bi-carbonates of lime, magnesia, soda, iron, and lithia, whose varying proportions cause the peculiar properties of the different sources. The, visitor may freely drink at any of the springs, the water being dipped up by boys (to whom a small gratuity is sometimes given). The cathartic waters should "be taken before breakfast (3 glasses being a fair quantity) ; the alterative waters are taken in small quantities throughout the day ; the tonic (iron) waters after midday ; and the diuretic waters before each meal. • The Congress Spring is near the new cottages in Congress Park. It was found by a party of hunters in 1792, and was so named because there was a Congressman among their number. The exportation of the water began in 1823, and it has now a continental fame, and is also sold in Europe. Each gallon contains 400 grains of chloride of sodium (salt), 143 of bi-carbonate of lime, 122 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, and 36 of other elements, with 392 cubic inches of carbonic-acid gas. This water is cathartic and alterative, and is beneficial in diseases of the liver and kid- neys, dyspepsia, and gout. More of it is drank than of the water of any other American spring, and its vicinity is thronged every bright summer mornins: with health-seekers from the hotels. SARATOGA SPRINGS. Route 10. 97 The Columbian Spring is prettily sheltered in Congress Park. It was discovered in 1806, and is the favorite among the residents of the village. It is a ferruginous water, containing much carbonic-acid gas, and should be taken in small quantities. It is a decided tonic and diuretic, and its use strengthens the digestive organs and increases the iron in the blood. Each gallon contains 291 grains of chloride of sodium, 90 of car- bonate of lime, 40 of carbonate of magnesia, 6 of carbonate of iron, and 457 cubic inches of carbonic-acid gas. The Washington Spring is in the grounds of the Clarendon Hotel (across Broadway, and 600 ft. from the Congress). It was oj^ened in 1806, and while being renovated and shafted in 1858, a torrent of water and gas burst into the subterranean tunnel and forced the workmen to flee for their lives. This is the pleasantest water in the valley, and has a taste of iron, with strong tonic properties. It is sometimes called " the Champagne Spring," and is situated amid statelj' pine groves. The Hathorn Spring is on Spring St., opposite Congress Hall. It was discovered in 1868, and is a very powerful cathartic, especially efficacious in disorders of the stomach and kidneys, and in giving tone and strength to exhausted systems. Each gallon contains 510 grains of chloride of sodium, 176 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, 171 of bi-carbonate of lime, and an extraordinary quantity of lithia. It is pleasant to the taste, and acts also as a diuretic. It was tubed at a cost of $15,000, and is 40 ft. deep. 300 dozen bottles (.$ 3 a dozen) are put up daily. The Hamilton Sjyring is near the Hathorn, and back of Congress Hall (corner of Spring and Putnam Sts. ). It is alterative and diuretic; also mildly cathartic, and is chiefly used for diseases of the kidneys. The Putnam Spring is on Phila St. (near Putnam), and is a chalybeate water. It is mostly used for bath- ing, for which there are conveniences on the premises. The Crystal Spring is \mder the Grand Hotel, and was opened in 1870. It is tainted with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is alterative in its effect. The Pavilion Spring is in a pretty park on Lake Avenue, near Broad- way. It was tubed in 1839 (re-tubed in 1869), and has a wide reputation for its cathartic properties and its efficacy in dyspepsia and bilious com- plaints. Of late years it has improved in quality and popularity, and great quantities are sent away every year. The United States Spring is under the same gracefid colonnade, and is tonic and alterative in its properties, while from its sparkling character it is used for giving life and flavor to still wines. Each gallon contains 142 grains of chloride of sodium, 93 of bi-carbonate of lime, 73 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, and 245 cubic inches of carbonic acid. The sources previously mentioned are near each other in the centre of the village. The Seltzer, High Rock, Star, Red, and " A " Springs are in a line in the N. part of the village. The Seltzer is a short distance N. 5 G 98 Route 10. SARATOGA SPRINGS. of the Pavilion, near Spring Avenue. The water wells up through an exposed glass tube 3 ft. high and 15 inches in diameter, in which tlie free gas causes frequent ebullitions. It is the least saline of the Saratoga waters, and is said to resemble the Nassau Spring in Germany. It is a pleasant and invigorating beverage. The High Rock Spring is just N. of the Seltzer, and is the greatest curiosity of Saiatoga. It flows from a crater-like opening in a dome- shaped mass of tufa-rock nearly 4 ft. high, which has been formed by the precipitation of carbonate of lime formerly held in solution in the water. This rock has been lifted off once, in order to allow of the removal of the underlying logs and mud. A gracefid Saracenic canopy has been built over it. The water is tonic and cathartic, and is actively beneficial in a large number of diseases. It is decidedly saline to the taste, containing iu each gallon, 390 grains of chloride of sodium, 31 of bi-carbonate of lime, and 55 of bi-carbonate of magnesia. The Star Spring is near the High Rock, and was formerly called "the President" and "the Iodine." A large bottling-house is situated here, and immense quantities of the water are sliipped thence to New England, where it is the favorite spring. It is also put up in barrels and kegs lined with tin or porcelain. It is mildly cathartic in its effect, and pleasantly acid to the taste, and is beneficial for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases. The Empire Spring is j iist E. of the Star, at the foot of a detached bluff of Mohawk limestone. It was opened in 1846, has pleasant sur- roundings, and is provided with a large bottling-house. It is very similar in its ingredients and effects to the Congress water. Near this is the Red Spring, a strong ferruginous water which is of much efficacy in cases of dyspepsia and skin diseases, also in improving the blood. It is prin- cipally used for bathing. The "A" Spring is near by (on Spring Ave- nue), and is a valuable cathartic remedy. It is pleasant to the taste, and is exported in large qiiantities. The Excelsior Spring is about 1| M. N. E. of Congi-ess Park, and is reached by Spring Avenue, or by a forest-path turning off near the cross- ing of Lake and East Avenues. It is in Excelsior Park, which has been laid out for a suburb of villas, and near Excelsior Lake, whence the village gets its water-supply. This spring is pleasant to the taste, and mildly cathartic in operation. Great quantities of it are shipped to the cilies. Near this place are the Minnehaha, Union, and other sources, forming a group known as the Ten Springs. The Mansion House ($10- 20 a week) is situated in this vicinity. The Eureka Spring is reached by following the park-like valley for a few rods beyond the Excelsior. It is situated amid charming forest scenery, and is gaining popularity as a cathartic agent, beneficial for cases of dyspepsia and for diseases of the digestive organs. Near this place is the Eureka White-Sulphur Spring, SARATOGA SPRINGS. Rmite 10. 99 having a copious flow of water charged with sulphuretted hydrogen. This is one of the best hepatic springs in the State, and is efficient in many diseases of the glands, skin, and stomach. It is taken internally and externally, — the latter at the bath-houses (50c. a bath) in the vicinity. Stages run hourly from the great hotels to the Eureka Springs (20c.). The Geyser Spouting Spring is 1| M. S. W. of the village, on the Ballston Road (omnibus fare, 20c.). A shaft was bored (in 1870) to the depth of 140 ft., where it struck a vein of water, Avhich has since con- tinued to flow copiously. It rises through a pipe of block-tin, and forms a jet 25 ft. high, agitated by carbonic-acid gas. This is the coldest of the waters of Saratoga, and has a larger amount of mineral matter than any other. It is strongly cathartic, and is lively and pleasant to the taste. A pretty little park is being made in this vicinity. The Glacier Spouting Spring is near the Geyser, and was opened, in 1871, by sinking an artesian well to the depth of 300 ft. in the Trenton limestone. The water spouts to a considerable height, and has a large proportion of mineral matter. It is a powerful cathartic, and is bene- ficial in diseases of the liver and kidneys. The J^tna, Triton, and Ellis Springs are also in this vicinity. Saratoga Lake is 4 M, from the village, and is reached by the favorite drive called the Boulevard (entered between Congress Hall and the Park ; omnibuses out and back, 7oc.). The Boidevard is 100 ft. wide, is lined with trees on the sides and in the centre, and commands distant views of the Green Mts. It passes near the race-course and the trout-ponds. * Moon's Lake House is the favorite of the lake-hotels, and furnishes rare dinners of fish and game, at high prices. The fried potatoes of this house are considered a great delicacy. Boats and fishing-tackle may be obtained here. The lake was called Ko.yaderoga by the Indians, and is 8 M. long by 2\ M. wide. The scenery is quiet, although the views from Chapman's Hill (1 M. from the Lake House) and Wagman's Hill (4 M.) are pleasing, and embrace the panorama of the Kayaderosseras Mts. On the shore is Frank Leslie's elegant villa of Interlachen. Lake Lovely is a sequestered pond among the hills near the Boulevard. It is a favorite resort for picnics, and has some fine woodland scenery. The Greenfield Hills, the falls at Corinth, Waring Hill, and Lake Luzerne are visited from Saratoga. Saratoga is an Iroqiiois word wliich means "place of herrings " (applied to the stream now called Fish Creek). The mineral waters were used by the Indians centuries ago, and were regarded with peculiar veneration. In August, 1767. while Sir William Johnson, the friend and whilom leader of the MohawlvS, was suffering from disease induced by a bad wound received at the Battle of Lake George, the tribe held a soleum council and determined to conduct him to "the Medicine Spring of tlie Great Spirit." He was borne on a litter to the High Rock Spring, and was its first white visitor. In 4 days his strength returned rapidly, and he wrote to Gen. Schuyler : " My dear Schuyler, I have just returaed from a most amazing spring which almost effected my cure." The' tidings soon spread 100 Route 10. THE BATTLES OF STILLWATER. among the colonists, and the Spring began to be visited by the forest-trails. In 1773, Dirick 8cowton built a small log-tavern near the High Rock, but the Indians drove him away, and it was opened in 1774 by a Illiode-Islander. The land was on Rip Van Dam's section of the Kayaderosseras Patent. From 1776 until 1783 no one lived there, although the officers of Gates's army frequently visited the place. Norton came in 1783, and in 1789 came Gideon Putnam, who erected the first hotel. Gen. Schuyler spent the summer of 1783 in a tent near the Higli Rock, and built a house where he dwelt in subsequent summers. Large hotels were erected after 181.5, and new springs were opened and made available. Several destructive fires have swept through the village ; and the great hotels of the present day are of late construction. The Battles of Stillwater were fought about 15 M. S. E. of Saratoga Springs. In June, 1777, Gen. Burgoj-ne marched S. from Canada with a large and well-appointed British army, strength- ened by German, Canadian, and Indian auxiliaries. This force was to meet an- other British army advancing from New York, somewhere on the line of the Hudson River, and thus cut the re\)ellious colonics in two, to be subjugated in detail. Burgoyne took Fort Ticonderoga, July 6 ; defeated St. Clair's army ; and lost a large detachment of his best German troops, who were cut off by tlic Ver- niontcrs at Bennington, Aug. 16. On Sept. 14 the British army crossed tlie Hud- son and encamped at Saratoga, near the American works, wliere lay a strong force under Gen. Gates. Sept. 19, Burgoyne attacked Gates in 3 divisions, at the point of the bayonet. Morgan's Virginians and Dearborn's New Hampshire n!en checked the Canadians, after a furious fight in the forest. Near the Middle Ravine occurred the most serious figliting (>f the day, when Arnold attacked the enemy with the 1st and 2d N. Y. troops, tlie 2d, 8th, and 9tli Mass. regiments, the 1st, 2d, and 3d N. H., and Morgan's Virginians. The Britisli 9th, 20th, 21.st, 241h, 62d, and grenadier regiments, with a swarm of Germans and Indians, pressed forward with the bayonet ; but " Arnold led the van of his men, and fell upon tlie foe with the fury and impetuosity of a tiger." The British leaders, fresh from the wars of Flanders, said that they had never known so long and hot a fire. At nightfall the enemy held the field, though they had lost over 500 men. Tl:e American loss was 319. The armies now began to throw up fortifications, within cannon-sliot of each other, and, on Oct. 7, Burgoyne made another attack on the Republican lines. But tlie Americans left their works and charged upon the hostile field-batteries ; while Morgan routed the Briti.sh r. wing. The German troops who formed the centre Stood firm in the swash of the rout until Arnold fell upon them with his brigade of Ncw-Englanders. Gen. Fraser, the life of the British army, w\as mortally wounded ; and Gen. Ten Broeck brought 3,000 fresh N. Y. troops into action. A panic now seized the royalists, and they fled to their fortified camps, closely pursued by the victors, who, under Arnold's lead, stormed the works in several places under' a heavy fire of grape-shot. Night then settled upon the field ; and the enemy, having lost 700 men in the action, sullenly re- treated, leaving their trains and hospitals. The fords of the Hudson were guarded bv Fellows's New England brigade and batteries ; and Burgoyne was forced to encamp at Schuylerville. Here he was confronted by 9,000 Continental troops and 4,000 N. Y. and Eastern militia ; his Indian and Canadian auxiliaries deserted en, masse; the camp was incessantly cannonaded bj^ the Americau batteries ; and provisions gave out entirely. Oct. 17, Burgojiie's army (consisting of 3,379' Britons and 2,412 Germans) laid down their arras. The artillery train consisted of 42 pieces ; and among the captive officers were 6 members of Parliament. The army was held in captivity until the close of the war (over 5 years) ; first at Cambridge, Mass., and afterwards at Charlottesville, Va. As a result of this vic- torious campaign, Continental money rose 20 per cent ; the militia hastened to the camps ; Chatham and Burke denounced the war, in the British Parliament ; Spain, Holland, Russia, and Rome spoke cheering words to America; and France acknowledged the independence of the United States. Large sums of money have recently been raised for a monument to be erected on the surrender-ground ; and it is hoped that it may be dedicated in 1876. Scliuylerville (* Goldsmith Hovse) is 12 M. E. of Saratoga Springs (daily stage), at the confluence of Fish Creek and the Hudson River. It is a pleasant FORT EDWARD. Route 10. 101 village on the line of the projected Troy & Whitehall R. R. ; and has 4 churches, the old Schuyler mansion, and the sites of several ancient forts. A strong redoubt was erected here by the French army of the Baron Dieskau, in 1755 ; and near this fort Burgoyne's troops laid down their arms in 1777, after a campaign which " left the country stripped of nearly every evidence of civilized occupation and culminated in one of the 15 decisive battles of the world." A bridge 800 ft. long crosses from Schuylei-\ille to Galesville, near which is an ancient hill-fort dating from 1709 ; and also the * Dionondahowa Falls, on the Batten Kill. A pleasant river-road runs 12 M. N. to Fort Edward, passing Fort Miller (G M.), which was built by Sir Wm. Johnson in 1755. Once, when imrsued by a party of Indians, Putnam escaped by boldly steering his boat down the white whirl of the Fort MiUer Falls. The Montreal train passes N. E. from Saratoga Springs across the thinly populated town of Wilton, with the Palmertown Mts. on the 1. Stations, Gansevoort and Moreau, beyond which the Hudson River is crossed at Fort Edward {Eldridge's ; St. James Hotel), a village of 3,492 inhabi- tants, with two banks and several paper-mills and blast-furnaces. The spacious buildings of the Collegiate Institute are seen on the 1. Lake George is reached by a branch R. R. diverging here (see Route 11). In 1690 Gen. Winthrop encamped here with a colonial army on the march to attack Montreal ; and in 1700 Schuyler fortified tlie place and garrisoned it with 450 British regulars. It became an important point on the great military route between the French and English colonies, since here began a land transit between the water-ways of the Hudson River and Lake Cliainplain. In 1744 Lydius, the Indian fur-trader, built here a fortified post, which was soon destroyed by the French ; and in 1755 Fort Lyman (afterwards called Fort Edward) was built at the confluence of a broad creek and the Hudson River. The ramparts were 10 ft. high and 22 ft. thick, were flanked by 4 bastions, and were bordered by a broad wet diti'h. Putnam repulsed an attack of the Indians on this post ; and in 1759 Lord Amherst organized here the grand army of 11,000 men, with which the Con- quest of Canada was effected, terminating that Seven Years' War which cost Great Britain §560,000,000, "and laid one of the largest foundation-stones of that national debt under which she now groans." In 1777 the fort was held by 5,500 Americans, who retired before the advance of Burgoyne ; and the beautiful Jane M'Crea was murdered by Indians, near the village, under circumstances which have caused her story to become one of the saddest in the New World history. Fort Ann was erected in 1757 at the N. E. end of the tram-way and portage from Fort Edward ; and Wood Creek was navigable thence to Lake Champlain. 1 M. N. W. Putnam and 500 Rangers were ambushed and defeated by the French partisan chief Molang, with a large force of French and Indians (Aug., 1758). The Rangers suffered fearfully, and Putnam was captured, and was being burnt at the stake when Molang rescued him from the savages. | M. N. of Fort Ann the R. R. traverses the rocky defile where the garrison of the fort attacked the 9th British regiment (July 8, 1777). After a long and obstinate conflict, the Ameri- cans were forced to retreat. The train runs N. E. from Fort Edward, near the Champlain Canal to Fort Ann, whence it descends the valley of Wood Creek. On the r. are the Cossayuna highlands, and on the 1. are the uninhabited defiles of the Palmertown and Fort Ann Mts. Station, Whitehall {HalVs Hotel), an important lumbering-village with 4,322 inhabitants. It is picturesquely situated in a deep and rugged ravine at the foot of Skene's Mt. The rail- road to Montreal connects here. 102 Route 10. RUTLAND. It was fortified at an early date, and in 1763 a colony was established here by Col. Skene (a veteran of t'arta;,'ena, Fontenoy, CuUoden, Tieonderoga, and Hava- na). The Indian name Knhrhnijuana wa.s supplanted by Slvene.shurough, and a large stone mansion and military worlds were oreeted. It was captured by Her- rick and the Green Mt. Boys in 177;j ; and in 1779 was confiscated by the State of New York on account of Skene's adhesion to the king. July 7, 1777, the Britisli fleet here engaged the Americans fleeing from Tieonderoga, destroyed several gal- leys, and took 128 cannon and a vast amount of supplies. Burgoyne's army re- mained here 3 weeks, and the ruins of his military works are to be seen on the hciglits. Benedict Arnold's fleet was built in this harbor ; and hither retired Macdonough's victorious fleet with the captured British squadron (1814). The flag-ships Saruto(ja and Cunjiancc sank at their moorings. The train runs N. E. from Whiteliall across Low Hampton ; then passes the Poultney River, and enters the State of Vermont. A richly pro- tliictive slate region is now traversed, and the line pa.sses Fairlmven and llydeville (at the foot of Lake Bomaseen, which is 8 M. long, and is lined with quarries of marble and slate). Castleton {Sunford lionise) is a pretty village, which contains the State Normal School and 5 churclies. 300,000,000 white soapstone slate-pencils, 1,000 Lilliard-beds, 2,000 slate mantels, and vast amounts of marble, slate, and marbleized slate are turned out here yearly. 7 M. N. is Hubbardton, where Eraser's light infantry routed the American rear-guard retreating from Tieonderoga, 507 men being lost on both sides. Passing now the great marble -quarries at W. Rutland (stages to Clarendon Springs), the train soon enters Rutland. The Central Vermont R. R. is now taken from Rutland to Burlington (68 M.), with fine views of the Green Mts. on the r. Rut- land (* Dates House ; Bardwell) is a well-situated and prosperous town of 10,000 inhabitants, with extensive marble-works and a lucrative country trade. The marble sells at the quames for a higher price than does Italian marble delivered in New York. Tliere are several fine churches here ; and the Court-House and Post-Office are worthy of notice. Pleasant exciirsions may be made to the Clarendon S])rings (6 U. S.; large summer hotel), Killlngton Peak (9 M. E.), and Sutherland Falls (6 M. N.). The Montreal train passes the quarries of statuary- marble near the graceful Sutherland Falls ; Brandon, Avith its great (piarries, kaolin paint-works, and Howe's scales-factory ; Leicester Junc- tion, with a branch R. R. to Tieonderoga and Port Henry ; Salisbury, near the favorite summer-resort at Lahe Bunmore ; marble-producing Middlebury {Addison House), the seat of Middlebury College; and the little city of Vergennes {Stevens House), beautifully situated at the falls on Otter Creek, viewing the Green and Adirondack Mts., and near the summer resorts of Elgin Spring and the Fort Cassin House. From Burlington, the train runs to Montreal in 103 M., passing Es- sex Junction; St. Albans (* Weldon House), a pretty village of 6,000 inhabitants, the chief dairy-market of New England, with fine public buildings and immense R. R. workshops; Highgate Springs {* Franklin RUTLAND. Bovte 10. 103 House), a favorite resort near Missisquoi Bay and the Missisquoi and Sheldon Springs ; and the Canadian town of St. John's, on the Richelien River. (For a more detailed description of the ronte from Whitehall to Montreal, see Osgood's Xew England, Routes 28, 26, and 29.) Tlie. Troxj and Boston R. R. runs from Troy to N. Adams, Mass. (48 M.), where it joins the Hoosac Tunnel lines Irom the E. Stations : Lansingburgh {Park Hotel), a prosperous manufacturing village, with 6,372 inhabit:ints ; Melrose ; Schaghti- coke ; Pittstown, where the line enters the Ho(»sick Valley ; and Johnsonrllle, whence a branch R. It. runs N. 15 M. , across Cambridge and Easton, to Green- wich, a prosperous f ictory-viUage on the Batten Kill, T-S M. E. of Schuylervillu (see page 101). At flagle Bridge (Daltoii House), a R. R. diverges to Rutland ; and from near the manufacturing village of Hoosick Falls, a branch line runs to Bennington. In tlie town of Huosick, near the Walloomsac River, was fought the Battle of Bennington (Aug. 10, 17<'7), when Gen. Stark, with 1,800 men of New England, defeated Baume and Breyman, who were leading a force of Ger- mans, Canadians, and Indians on a raid into Vermont. The battle was long and obstinate, and the enemy lost 937 men and 4 cannon. The 10th of August hai? been observed as a holiday in Bennington ever since the battle. The train runs S. E, from Hoosick Falls, intersects the Harlem Extension R. R. (see page 62) at Petersburg]! Junction, crosses Pownal, in the S. W. corner of Vermont, and passes WUllanistown, Mass., the seat of Williams College, near the summer resort of *Greylock Hall, at the Sand Springs. Thence it passes up the Hoosac Valley to N. Adams (* Wilson House), a busy manufacturing place among the Berk- shire Hills, and 2 M. from the entrance to the *Hoosac Tuuuel (see Osgood's New England, Route 23). Troy to Rutland. By the Rutland and Washington R. R., in 75 M. The Ti-oy and Boston R. R. is taken for 23^ M. to FmqIc Bridge, whence the R. and W. train diverges to the N., up the Owl Kill Valley and across the town of Cambridge, famous for its growth of flax. Station, Cambridge (Feuton Hotel), near the picturesque valley of' Owl Kill. Passing thnmgh the lake-studded Taghkanick Hills, the train enters the valley of the Batten Kill ; and beyond Shushan it reaches Salem, a pleasant village and semi-capital of Washington County. To the E. are Mts. Equinox and vEolus, near Manchester, Vt. ; and a few M. W. is Cossayuna Lake, a beautiful sheet 3 M. long, surrounded with high hills and dotted with green islands. High up among the Cossayuna highlands is Argyle Lake. The train now enters Vermont, and passes the rural stations of Rupert and Pawlet (famous for large potato crops). Bending back into N. Y. State, down the valley of the turbulent Pawlet River, rich intervales are traversed, by rural stations, and the line re-enters Vermont, and passes Poultney (2 hotels). This is a pleasant village, where Horace Greeley learnt the printer's art, and Jared Sparks mastered the carpenter's trade. The old Ripley Female College is now used as a summer boarding-house (250 guests, §10-12 a week). Excursions are made to L.ake Bomaseen, Carter's Falls, and *Lake St. Catharine (St. Catharine Hotel), which is 5 M. long, and stands among fine hill-scenery. 8 M. E. of Poultney are the Middletown Springs (*Montvert Hotel, 300 guests). The line now traverses a region of slate-quarries and rolling hills, and reaches Castleton station. 103 a. Route 10 a. LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 10 a. Albany to Montreal. By the Champlain Division of the Delaware & Hudson Canal Company's Rail-- roads, in 10-11 hours. Wagner's palace-cars are run on this route. Cai-s are changed at House's Point. The track of the Saratoga Division is followed from Albany by Saratoga to Wluteliall (see Route 10), where the Champlain Division is entered. Seats on the r. side of the ti'ain are preferable, as giving many pleas- ant views of Lake Chanijilain. Stations. — Albany to Whitehall, 71 M. ; Chubb's Dock, 78 ; Dresden, 81 ; Putuaui, so; Patterson, 91; Addison Junction, 95; Crown Point, 108; Port Henry, 111; Westport, lL'2; Wadham's Mills, 125; WhaUonsburg, 12S ; Wills- borough; Port Kent, 148; Valcour, 155; Plattsburgh, ICl ; Beckmantown, lliG; Chazy, 171: Sciota, 170; Mooer's Junction, 172 ; Chamidain, 179 ; Rouse's Point, 1S3 ; Montreal, 'I'Sd. The express-trains run from Whitehall to Port Henry in 1^ hrs., to Plattsburgh in 3i hrs. , and to Rouse's Point in 6 hrs. The line now tises the rails of the Ogdensburg & Lake Champlain R. R. (Central Vermont) from Mooer's to Rouse's Point ; but will soon construct a new railroad from Chazy to Rouse's Point. On leaving Wliitehall the train passes to the N., and soon crosses the outlet of South Bay, witli the Whitehall Narrows on the r. For over an hour the track is followed to the N., bending frequently around bold ridges and curving along the shore of the narrow lake. The highlands of Dresden and Putnam are on the 1., and on the r. are the hills of Vermont, aci'oss the water. At Patterson a branch railroad diverges to the W., which soon crosses the outlet of Lake George (near Ticonderoga), and sweeps around Mt. Deliance to Baldivin, the landing-place of the Lake- George steamboats. The brancli is 5 M. long, and tlie fare is 75c. About 10 minutes' Avalk from Baldwin is the Rogers-Rock House ($ 3 a day, 314 a week), a new summer-hotel on a beautiful and far-viewing promon- tory between two quiet bays, near the foot of Rogers's Slide. The Montreal train next crosses the broad bay under Mt. Defiance, with views of Fort Ticonderoga. At Addison Junction, 2 M. from Ticon- deroga village, the line meets the railroad winch diverges from the Cen- tral Vermont line at Leicester Junction. Arrangements have recently been made by Avhich travellers can go from Lake George to the White Mountains in a day. Moriiiug stages leave the Rogers-Rock House for Addison Junction, where the train is taken. Time for dinner is given at Burlington, whence the traveller reaches the mountains (at suiiper-time) by way of Montpelier, and the Montpelier & Wells-River R. R. Going in the oppo- site direction the tourist dines at Montpelier, and reaches Addison Junction in time to be carried on the stage (5 M. ; 75c.) to the Rogers-Rock House to supper. The train now runs to the N. over a comparatively level and thinly popu- lated country, with frequent views over Lake Champlain. Beyond the hamlet and station of Crown Point it closely approaches the lake, and then bends to the 1., with the ruined fortress of Crown Point on the r. (scarcely visible), crosses Bulwagga Bay on a long bridge, and reaches the iron-manufacturing village of Port Henry, at the N. end of the Kaya- derosseras Mts. Fine views of the lake are now afforded on the r., as tlie LAKE GEORGE. Route 11. 103 5. great iron -works N. of Port Henry are passed. The line soon turns far- ther inland, and runs through a thinly settled region to West^jort station, wliich is about 1 M. from the pretty lake-port of the same nanrje, on Northwest Bay, Beyond this point the lake is long hidden by the huge mass of Split-Rock Mt., which is left on the E. Near Whallonshurg the Boquet River is crossed twice, and the line follows its course to Wills- horouyh, where it crosses yet again, and soon approaches the broad waters of Willsborough, or Peru, Bay. The scenery on tliis section is of a high order of beauty and impressiveness, as the train swings around the Treni- bleau Mts. and their connected ranges, on higli grades, and often on ter- races which are built out on the sharp slopes of the ridges. There are several tunnels and deep rock-cuttings, but generally the lake is open to view, and affords a series of beautiful prospects, bounded by the long line of the Vermont mountains. This section of the route is remarkable for its bold and imposing scenery, and daring engineering. 21 M. of the railroad in this region cost .$ 3,000,000, a very heavy expenditure for Eastern railroad work. Above Port Douglas the broad*expanse of Cor- laer's Bay is overlooked, and islands are seen out in the lake. Swinging around the N. end of the Trembleau Mts., the line soon reaches Port Kent, whence a ferry-boat runs to the city of Burlington, on the Ver- mont shore. Port Kent is the point of departure for the Ausable Chasm (2-3 M. W.), and also for the Saranac Lakes. From Port Kent to Plattsburgh the course is over a level and sandy country, with occasional fine views of the distant mountains. Soon after crossing the Ausable river twice, near its mouth, and the Little Ausable River, the train passes Valcour, near the island of the same name, off which Arnold was defeated in a naval battle. Tlie line now lies nearer the lake, crosses the Salmon River, and soon reaches the large and pros- perous village of Plattsburgh (see page 118). From this point the scenery is less interesting, as tlie train leaves the vicinity of the lake, and passes through the district across which Sir George Prevost's army ad- vanced to its disastrous defeat, in 1814. At Mooer's Junction the train is switched on to the Central Vermont track, and runs thence E. to Rouse's Point (see page 120). The route from Rouse's Point to Mon- treal is described on page 121. 11. Lake George. Fort Edward is 55 M. N. of Albany (see Route 10), and is the point at which the route to Lake George diverges from the Saratoga Division R. R. A short branch railroad follows the Hudson River N. W. by tlie prosperous village of Sandy Hill (near Baker's Falls) to Glen's Falls (* Rockwell House, $ 3 a day, $14-21 a week ; American Hoicse). This 1 04 Route 11. LAKE GEORGE. town lias 8,000 inhabitants, 2 weekly newspapers, an opera-house, an acad- emy, and a seminary. The * Soldiers' Monument is a fine work in Dor- chester sandstone, 46 ft. high, surmounted by an eagle, and flanked by life-size statues of soldiers. The village was destroyed by fire in 1864, but has already more than recovered its losses. Large saw-mills and paper-mills are located here; and immense quantities of black marble are quarried for exportation. The jointa lime which is shipped from this point has a high reputation. The falls of the Hudson are about 50 ft. high, and are well seen fi-om the bridge below. This bridge rests at mid- stream on a rocky islet, on which is a cave, where " amid the roar of this very cataract, if romance may be believed, the voice of Uncas, the last of the Mohicans, was heard and heeded; here Hawk Eye kept his vigils; here David breathed his nasal melody; and here Duncan He}^vard, with his lovely and precious wards, Alice and Cora Monroe, fell into the hands of the dark and bitter Mingo chief." The scene of Cooper's novel, " The Last of the Mohicans," was laid here. The black marble cliffs on either side contain many trilobites and other fossils. 2 M. above Glens Falls is the great State Dam whence the summit level of the Champlain Canal is fed, and a rugged road leads through the Luzerne Mts. to Lake Luzerne, 10-12 M. W. Morning and evening stages leave Glens Falls for Caldwell, 9 M. N. on Lake George. The plank-road runs across the Pine Plains, with glimpses of the Luzerne Mts. on the 1., and the Palmertown and Fort Ann Mts. on the r. Near the Half -Way House are the remains of several ancient re- doubts ; and in this vicniity the daring French partisan. La Come, attacked a commissary train, burnt the wagons, killed 110 persons, and carried off 84 prisoners. Beyond the toll-gate is Williams's Rock, with a monument erected by the students of Williams College, to the memory of Col. Wil- liams, who fell here during '• the Bloody Morning Scout " (see below). Near this point is the weird and sequestered Bloody Pond, into which the slain men of Williams's command were thro^vn, and there is a legend that its waters bore a sanguine hue for many years. The road now rises to a point which commands a fine * view of Lake George, and the stage soon reaches Caldwell, a dull village at the S. end of Lake George, which en- joys a slight local distinction from the fact of its being the shire-town of Warren County. The * Fort William Henry Hotel is an imposing struc- ture, situated on the old garrison garden and fronting the lake (1,200 guests; $5 a, day for transient visitors). The * Lake House is by the water-side, on the site of Montcalm's siege-batteries (200 guests ; $ 3.50 a day ; $ 17 - 21 a week). There are 2 village inns and several boarding- houses. Stages run 2-3 times daily to Glens Falls ($1.25); and to Thunnau, on the Adirondack R, R. (9 M. ; $1.25). Railroads from Lu- zerne and Glen's Falls have been chartered ; the latter is not likely to be LAKE GEORGE. Route 11. 105 built. Steamers run down the lake thrice daily ; an hourly ferry crosses to Crosbyside. Row-boats, 50c. an hour, $1.50-2.00 a day; with fish- erman and tackle, $ 3 - 4 a day. Rattlesnake Cobble is near the village, and commands a broad view down the lake. Prospect and French Mts. are also ascended thence, and afford superb views of the lake and its shores. Bloody Pond (2 M.) and Williams's Rock ^ M.) are often visited. Nearly 1 M. S. E. is Fort George, which was built by Amherst in 1759. Much of its stone-work has been carried away and made into lime, but the embankments of the old lines still stretcli through the forest. Fort Gage is ^ M. distant, and the remains of other colonial works are found in tlie vicinity. Tlie ruins of Fort William Henry are just to the E. of the great hotel, and are in fair preservation. Lake George was first visited by Fatlier Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, whose canoe entered its quiet waters on the cvc of the festival of Corpus Christi, 1C4G. In honor of tluit sacred anniversary lie named these bright waters Le Lac du St. Sacrement ("The Lake of the Blessed Sacrament "), and then passed on to his he- roic martyrdom at the hands of the Mohawks, fulfilling the prophecy which he made on leaving Montreal, "Ibo, nee redilio." For over a century the lake wa.; known in the border chronicles as the path of hostile incursions or of religious devotees passing to the land of the fierce heathen Mohawks. Oourcelles, Traccy, Schuyler, Menteth, — French, Dutch, Indians, English, — diversified tlie recoril. In 1G98 the Count de Fronteiiac led down the lake 450 soldiers of France and '230 Indians, and destroyed the Moliawk castles in Central N. Y. He was hotly pur- sued to these shores, but escaped on the ice with his plunder and captives. At the first American Congiess (held at Albany, June 19, 1754) it was decided that the Lakes Champlain and George should be delivered from and fortified against the French aggressions. William Jolinson was put in command of the colonial army, and a train of nrtillery was i)rocured. (These cannon were all captured by the French at Fort William Henry ; retaken by the English at Ticonderoga ; fell into the hands of the Vcrnionters when Ticonderoga surrendered ; were drawn to Cambridge on sledges, and did notable service in the American bombardment of Boston.) Having concluded a league with the Six Nations, Johnson advanced his forces to St. Sacrement, which he named Lake George, " not only in honor of his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion " (1755). The Baron dc Dieskau (formerly a cavalry officer under Marshal Saxe) then coinnianded the French forces on Lake Champlain, and marched against Jolmson with 1,600 men. His approach being .suspected, Johnson sent out a scouting party of 1,200 men (the 3d Mass., 2d Conn., and 200 Mohawks), although the Mohawk Chief Hen- drick protested that they were too few to succeed and too many to be slaughtered. The object was to engage and check the enemy's vanguard while Johnson com- pleted his hasty fortifications. But the detachment advanced into the very centre of the liostile army (which was marching in a great half-moon curve through the forest) and was speedily enveloped and crushed. A terrible massacre ensued (in the ravine which is still known as the Bloody Defile), and Col. Williams (of the ;3d Mass.; founder of Williams College) and liendrick, the Avhite-haire(l Mohawk chief, were killed while foremost figlitiiig. Dieskau pursued hard after the fugitive survivors, wliose retreat Avas covered by the 1st Rhode Island. This action was called "the Bloody Morning Scout." The French now moved on Johnson's rude defences of earthAvorks and abatis, and the regiments of La Reine and Languedoc, halting before the American centre, opened and continued i)la- toon-firing until tliey Avere nearly annihilated by the artillery. They then SAVuiig around and joined the Canadian and Huron auxiliaries in a sharp attack on the American right vlst 2d, and remnant of 3d Mass.). They Avere repulsed there, and the Chevalier de Montreuil led ott' the beaten army, Dieskau being Avoundcd 5* 106 Route 11. LAKE GEORGE. and a prisoner, and St. Pierre (who had defeated Washington on the Ohio) having been killed. Detachments froin the 1st N. H. and 1st N. Y. were sent from Fort Lyman, and gained another victory over the French rear-guard. The attack on Johnson's position lasted from noon until 4 o'clock, and cost the assailants 400 men. Johnson was badly wounded early in the action, and Gen. Lyman succeed- ed to the command ; l»ut the foiincr was rewarded with a baronetcy. The great- grandfather of President Grant (an officer of tlie Conn, line) was killed in this action (Sept. 8, 173j). A large fort was V)uilt after the battle, and was named Fort William Henry, in lionor of the Duke of Cumberland (brother of George IIL, and merciless victor at CuUoden). The Frencli hekl Fort CariUon (Ticonderoga) at the foot of tlie lake, and there were freipient skirmishes and raids for tlie next 3 years. The American rangers, Rogei-s and Putnam, were foremost in this parti- san warfare, which took jilace among the islands and bays. In March, 1757, Rigaud de Vaudrcuil menaced Fort William Henry with IjOO jiicked men, and de- stroyed 300 batteaux, 4 armed sloops, and all tlie outworks. In July, the Cheva- lier La Come led 700 men around the fort and captured a large supply-train, but was attacked by Putnam with gunboats, near Sabbath Day Point, and suffered heavy losses. 2 days later a Huron-Canadian force drove the provincials from the islands, and killed 54 men near the fort. During the same summer the Mar- quis (le Montcalm (Commander of the Order of St. Louis, and a veteran of the Italian campaigns) advanced up the lake after the fall of OsAvego, with 1,800 warriors from 18 Indian tril)es (from Nova Scotia to Micliigan), 3,000 Canadian troops, and 3,081 regulars. The Chevalier de Levi advanced along the W. shore with 4 regiments, while Montcalm, with the main body, passed up the lake in 450 boats. The fort was garrisoned by 2,100 men, and' the French troops swung around on the Fort Edward road to keep off reinforcements, while siege-batteries were opened within 700 yards of the works. Parallels and covered ways were made, and a heavy cannonade was opened from 32 guns. A spirited fire Avas kept up from the English batteries, and sciveral sorties were made, but, after 5 days' bombardment, the cowardly Gen. Webb refusing to send reinforcements from Fort Edward, and the French parallels being near the battered rampr.rts, Col. Monroe surrendered the fort, having permission to march to Fort Edward with arms, colors, and one field-piece. The capitulation took place at noon, and the English set out for Fort Edward the next morning. But the Indians had spent the night in drinking and martial rites, and (headed by a Nova Scotia tribe) fell upon the rear of tlie retreat with great fury, ins])iring a panic, in the English, who threw down their arms and scattered. Montcalm ordered up his troojis and en- dcivored to restrain his truculent allies, but a large number of the English sol- diers were killed before tiie massacre was stopped. The garrison was then sent to Fort Edward under escort of the Royal Roussilon regiment ; Montcalm removed the 34 captured cannon and immense supplies ; destroyed the works, and retired to Ticonderoga. "The fort Avas entirely demolished Dead bodies, mangled with scalping-knives and tomahawks in all the wantonness of Indian fierceness and barbarity, were everywhere to be seen. More than ICO won:en. butchered and shockingly mangled, lay upon the i round, still weltering in their gore. " (Putnam. ) The most imposing spectacles which this or any other American lake has seen occurred in 1758-59. July 5, 1758, Gen. Abercrombie advanced down the lake with 10,000 men, in 900 batteaux and 135 whale-boats, convoj-ed by gunboats and grouped around 2 huge floating castles, brilliant with rich uniforms and waving banners, Avhile the music of many bands echoed among the hills. (This pageant is linely described by Cooper, in "Satanstoe," Chapters XXII. -XXV.) A few days later the shattered and defeated- army passed up the lake to Fort William Henry, having left over 2,000 of their number dead and dying under the walls of Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga). In 175S Gen. Amherst led 11,000 men down the lake in another grand martial procession which resulted in the Conquest of Canada. In 1775 tlie abandoned Forts George and Gage (at Caldwell) were occu- pied by the troops of N. Y. and Conn. ; and, in the summer of 1777, Fort George was chosen for the army hospital (on account of the salubrity of the air), and 3, GOO sick men were sent there, of whom hundreds died of the small-jiox and typhus-fever. In 1777, after the fall of Ticonderoga, Fort George and the lake were abandoned by the Americans, but Avere reoccupied after Burgoyne's surrender. In Oct., 1730, the garrison of Fort George Avas defeated and cut to pieces near Bloody Pond, and the fort and the fleet on the lake were taken by the British. Since that day unbroken peace has dwelt on these tranquil waters. DIAMOND ISLAND. Route 11. 107 Lake George, "the Como of America," is situated in Northeastern New York, near the Adirondack Mts., and is about 300 ft. above the sea. It is 36 M. long, and 1-4 M. wide ; and its shores are generally sterile, and bordered by the lofty and abrupt hills of the Luzerne and Kayade- rosseras Ranges. There are but 3 petty villages on the lake ; and a high- way passes through them on the W. shore, connecting Caldwell with Bolton, Hague, and Ticonderoga. Tlie vicinity of frowning mts., the great number of islands, tlie transparency of the waters, and the bracing purity of the air of the highlands, unite to establish the claims of Lake George as a summer resort; while its scenery has been likened, not only to that of Como, but also to Lake Windermere and Loch Katrine. The steamer Minnehaha leaves Caldwell every inoniing at 7.45, reaches the N. end of the lake at 11, and gets back to Cakhvell at 7 r. m. (fare, $2 ; to go and return, S3). Tourists can visit Fort Ticonderoga, and return the same day. The Ganouskie and LilUc M. Price go down to the Narrows and 14-Mile Island morning and afternoon (.^1.50 for the roimd trip). The steamer leaves the pier near the great hotel, and crosses to Crosby- side, 1 M. distant on the E. shore, with a spacious summer hotel and cottages situated in pleasant groves by the sliore, and looking across to Caldwell (200 guests, $15-25 a week). The forest-covered French Mt. is seen towering on the E.; and 1 M. N., on the shore, is a convent of the Paulist Order (on a domain given by Charles O'Connor). Tea Island (so named from a tea-house, or arbor, erected in 1828) is next passed ; and the sunmier-house of Randolph, the publisher, is seen on tlie W., above which is Col. Price's stately villa. Diaiuond Island (3 I\I. from Caldwell) was held by 400 of Aberci'ombie's men after the great defeat ; and was foi-tified by Burgoyue as a depot of supplies (1777), and garii- soned by part of the 47th line regiment, under Capt. Aubrey. It was attacked by Col. John Brown, with the New England militia who had swept the outworks of Ticonderoga ; but Aulirey repulsed the Americans with artillery, and then drove them away ("with great loss") by an attack with his gunboats. Brown lost all his vessels and cannon, and many men. The name of the island is derived from the fine quartz crystals which are found there ; and tlie place was inhabited in the early part of this century, the mistress of tlie family being generally known as " the Lady of the Lake." Near Diamond Point (W. shore) is Coolidge's Hotel (1 10 -12 a week). Above Montcalm's Bay (E. shore) are the Trout Pavilion and the Kattskill House, two sequestered hotels under the shadow of the mts., and near good fishing-grounds (80 guests eacli, $10- 15 a week). 4 M. from Caldwell is Long Island, with the Tliree Sisters on the W., and on the E. two promontories, which afford favorite camp- grounds. The Fort Ann Mts. loom up darkly on the E. as the steamer crosses the lake, with the Three Brothers on the W., and Dome and Recluse Islands on the N. Buck and Pilot Mts. are seen on the N. E., 108 Route 11. BOLTON. and the Narrows open away beyond. This is the, widest part of the lake, and affords views of rare beauty, with the graceful * Dome Island {which resembles Ellen's Isle, on Loch Katrine) prominently seen. Recluse Island is a beautiful islet just W. of the Dome, with a picturesque villa embowered among the trees. Recluse has the remains of fortifications which were built by Abercrombie's army in 1758, and the views from its 8. and E. shores are very beautiful. Tlie steamer now rounds in at Bolton, a small village, with a noble outlook over tlie broadest expanse of the lake {Mohican and Bolton Hotises, $12-18 a week; Wells', Braley's, and other boarding-houses, $8-15 a week). In the environs of tlie village is the quaint little stone Church of St. Sacrament. Tliere are several pleasant drives in this vicinity, — to Caldwell, by the lake- side (10 M.), and to Hague, over the hills. On the lofty plateau to the W. (1,000 ft. above Lake George) are several crystal lakes, the chief of which are Trout Lake and Edgecomb Pond. Prospect Mt. is back of the village, and commands a broad and delightful *view, embracing the widest part of the lake, Montcalm's and Ganouskie (Northwest) Bays, Recluse, Dome, and Green Islands, and the Narrows, with Tongue and Black Mts., in the N. and N. E. Ganouskie Bay extends for 6 M. to the N. above Bolton, being separated from the lake by the lofty i)rom- ontory of Tongue Mt. (called by the Indians Atakqjosa, "a sliding- place "), where deer are found in the late fall and Avinter, and eagles build their lofty eyries. The steamer runs N. E. from Bolton, passing Parodi (or Sloop) Island, which was named for the singer, Signora Parodi, who erected a cross here in 1851. On the 1. are Green and Crown Islands, closing the entrance to Ganouskie Bay ; while Tongue Mt. is on the W., and Buck Mt. on the E., as the steamer crosses towards the lofty pal- isades called Shelving Rock, witli the innumerable islands of the Narrows on the 1. A stop is made at 14-Milc Island, with its twelve forest- covered acres, lying at the entrance of tlie Narrows, and near the fishing- grounds (14-Mile Island House, $10-14 a week). On the S. are the Hen and Chickens islets; and about 1 M. S., on the mainland, are the pretty Shelving Rock Falls. The steamer now enters * The Narrows, where the lake is compressed between high mts., and a fleet of small islands is anchored in the channel. These islets were the scene of nu- merous partisan combats in the colonial days, but are now deserted, save for the visits of sportsmen, who find large trout in their cool shadows. Steaming down between Tongue Mt. and Black Mt. (2,878 ft. high ; sometimes ascended with guides fi'om Hulett's Landing, for the sake of its broad overview), the Minnehaha passes the Hatchet, Half- Way, and other groups of islets. Just N. of the Floating Battery group are the Harbor group and Vicar's Islands, with the lofty palisades of Buck Mt. on the W., and the hamlet of Dresden, down Bosom Bay, on the E, To SABBATH DAY POINT. Route 11. , 109 tlie S. E. are the upper peaks of Black Mt., called, from their form, the Elephant Ridge, with Sugar-Loaf Mt. beyond. There are 3 sequestered farm-houses in Bosom Bay, where boarders are taken for §8 a week. Sahhath Day Point is soon approached (on the W.), a long low prom- ontory rmining out from the rich meadows imder Bloomer and Deer's Leap Mts., and still retaining the air of peace and restfulness which won it the name it bears. In 1757 a sharp skirmish ocrurred off this point, and in July of that year the 1st N. J. Regiment was sent down tlie lake scouting. While drifting*^ by the Harbor Islands (just above the point), in the gray of the morning, they 'were • suddenly attacked by 300 Ottawa Indians and 50 Frenchmen. Although the Jersey Blues were superior in numljcrs, they were so daunted by tlie lury of the enemy and the fearful whoo])ing of the savages, that they fled in panic. JBut the swift Indian canoes quickly overtook their heavy barges, and only 12 men es- caped, —131 being killed, and the rest made prisoners. Some of them were tortured to death, and the Ottawas feasted during the following night on lunnan fle.sh. On July 5, 1758, the vanguard and centre of Abercrombie's grand army (light infantry and regulars) rested here from sunset until nearly midnight, waiting for the 3 brigades of provincials and the artillery. In 1751t Amherst's army rested on the point; and in 1777 a sharp action was fought here belweoii American militia and Tory refugees. The present commonjilay way of Lake (George. The most direct way of eoming from New York is by Itoiites 8 and 10'2'Jl M. i ; and from Pliiladelphia by the N. Penn. and Albany & yusquehanna R. Rs. Tliere are four large steamboats plying on the lake. They leave Plattsburgh at 7 a. m., and Ticonderoga at noon (reacliing Plattsburgh at G.30 p. m. ). An excellent dinner is served on the boats (.•jl ; and staterooms may also be obtained. Travellers leaving Ciildwell on tlie morning boat meet tlie noon boat at Ticondcniga, The steamers formerly ran be- tween Whiteiiall, on tlie S. , and Rouse's Point, on the N., but their voyages arc now much shorter. The descriptions of those portions o. the lake are still re- tained, for the use of boatmen. Landings — Fort Ticonderoga (24 M. from Whitehall); Larrabee's Point, 2 M. ; Crown Point, 11; Port Henry, 18; Westiwrt, 28; Essex, 40; Burlington, (jl ; Port Kent, 66; Plattsburgh, 81. Lake Champlain is a large and picturesque sheet of water, running nearly N. and S. for 126 M., Avith a hreadtli of from 1 furlong to 13 M. Its waters are clear, and abound in Lass, pickerel, salmon -trout, and other fish, while the depth varies from 1) to 47 fathoms. There are many islands, tlie largest of whicli covers an area of 18,G00 acres, and has a population of 1,300. Besides numerous pleasant villages and towns, there is one city on the shores, and the fleets used in commerce here number many thou- sands of tons. There is a large trade between the rivers, the Hudson being joined to the lake by a canal 6-4 M. long (to Watervliet), while the Riche- lieu River affords an outlet to the St. Lawrence. The scenery of the Ver- mont shore is that of a quiet pastoral country, with the Green Mts. rising in the distant E. The New York shore presents a continual succession of barren and mountainous scenery, with occasional foot-hills of the Adirondacks pushed out in promontories, and the parent peaks looming blue in the distance. r.ake Cliamplaiii was called by the Iroquois Indians Caniaderi Guaranti (" 'I'hc Gate of tl:e Country"), and the Abenaquis called it rctoiihovque {" Tho Waters that lie between," i. e. between their land and that of the Iroquois). The Frencli gave tlie name La Merc des Iroquois ; but for nearly half a century the English and Dutch called it Corlear's Lake, in memory of a Dutch officer wlio was drowned there. In the summer of 160;) a small exploring party set out from Que- bec under Samuel de Champlain, i the Governor of Canada, and ascended the St. 1 Champlain was born of n good family of the province of Saintonge. in 15"0. He became a naval officer, and was aiterwards attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1GU3 ho ascended the St. Lawrence River to the St. Louis Rapids, and thence until his death (ia 108.5) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He wrs a brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one soul is of more im- portance than the fo"ndiug of a new empire." He established strong missions among tho Hurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. FORT TICONDEROGA. Route 12. Ill Lawrence and Richelieu Rivers to the Chambly Rapids, where they met a war party of Hurons. All the Frenchmen, except Champlain and two others, were sent back to Quebec, and these three joined the Indian band. July 4, 1609, tliey entered the lake, and on tlie following day they defeated 20f) Iroquois at Crown Point, Champlain having shot their chief Avith his arquebus. The Hurons re- turned in triumph, bearing GO scaljis, and the valiant Frenchmen, having found the way to the lake, were left to make subsequent explorations and campaigns thereon. A series of war paities traversed this route for nearly two centuries, and the lake became the scene of long camiiaigns and desperate battles. In Jan., 160(5, Gov. de Courcelles ascended the lake with 500 men, in a fniitless raid on the Mohawk Valley ; and later in the same year, De Tracey, with 600 Franco-Canadians, took this route on liis destructive foray on Central N. Y. In 16S7 a war party of N. Y. MohaAvks ])assed down and destroyed the French settle- ment at Chambly with its people, and in lOS'.i the same route was traversed by 900 Mohawks, who destroyed Montreal. In 1090, 210 French regulars and a swarm of Indians passed up in canoes and marched to Schenectady, wliich they leduced to ruins, kiUing 60 of its people and carrying off a great amount of plunder. In August, 1690, Capt. Schuyler, witli 53 Cliristians and 12.0 savages, went down in boats to La Prairie, where they killed and cajitured 31 persons, and burnt the village. In 1691 Peter Schuyler, with 350 men, attacked the same place, but was beaten otf with a loss of 46 men. In 1095 the chivalrous Count de Fronteuac (a relative of Madame de Main tenon) launched a fleet of small craft, and passed up witli 400 Frenchmen and 250 Algonquins, with wliom he laid waste the Moliawlt country. After a daring foray, whicli reached almost to tlie forts at Albany, he retired in s ifety, and laden Avith plunder and prisoners, although pursued by Schuyler and tlie Hudson Valley people. The lake Avas held by the French, and commanded by their fortihcations until 1759. In 1745 Marin led 300 Canadians in a fleet of canoes uji the lake, Avlience he marched on Saratoga and destroyed it, and scores of marauding parties followed tliis route in their forays on the Iludson and Ct)n:i. River towns. In 1759 Lord Amherst built a flotilla in Soutli Bay, Avith a flagship mounting 18 guns, in wiiicli Capt. Loring swept and Avon tliis inland sea. The military and naA'al operations around the lake Avill be considered in comicction with the points of action. The old and deserted steamhoat-pier is 1 M. from Whitehall, and near the subnierged hulks of the British and American frigates wliich fotigiit at Plattsburgh. Near this pohit is Put's Rock, where Israel Put- nam and his rangers ambushed and defeated the Franco-Indian forces of Marin. Soon after leaving the pier, Snuth Bay is seen on thel., over- looked by Saddle Mt. and Diameter Rock (N. shore ; 1,300 ft. high). From Whitehall to Ticonderoga (24 M. ), and even to CroAvn Point, the lake is very narrow, and appears like a river. The grades and deep cut- tings of the N. Y. and Canada R. R. are visible on the W. shore, beyond which are the bold hills of Dresden, Avith Black Mt. as their chief. The marshy shores of Dresden Avere named Le Grand Alarais by the French, and are noAv known as the Drowned Lauds. Fort Ticonderog-a. Fort -Ticonderoga Hotel, 83 a daj', an ancient mansion-house near the landing. Steamboats leave for Bnrlingt.on and Plattsburgh about noon, daily, making the run in 6-7 hr.s. The old and inconA'enient staw-ronte to Lake George (4 M.'; see page 110) has been replaced by a railro.nd. The Chamolain R. R passes near the fort, on the W. There is also a station nljont 1 M. N. of the fort, ])er- taining to a branch of the Central Vermont R. R., which diverges from the main line at Leicester Junction. 112 Route 12. FORT TICONDEROGA. The picturesque ruins of the fort crown the high hill near the steam- boat pier, and command extensive lake-views. It is on a high and rocky- peninsula, 500 acres in extent, surrounded on three sides by water, and bounded on the W. by a swamp. The sally-port where the Green Mt. Boys entered, the old well, the crumbling walls of the barracks surround- ing the parade, and the well-defined dry ditches beyond the ramparts, may easily be recognized. In one of the E. bastions is a deep and cavern- ous vault, which it is surmised was the garrison bakery. On the high point to tlie S. E. is the well-preserved Grenadiers' Battery, erected to command the landing-place, and to defend the long bridge to Mt. Inde- pendence. There is another small battery surrounded by a wet ditch, on the plain to the N. ; and the forests to the S. and W. are furrowed with intrenchments and redoubts. From the ramparts of the fort Mt. Inde- pendence is seen to the S. E. across the lake, and Mt. Defiance is to the S. W. across the widenings of the outlet of Lake George. The latter summit is 800 ft. above the lake, and is best ascended by following the nearly obliterated military road of Burgoyne from Ticonderoga village (3 M. from the fort to the summit). Others, who avail themselves of the fine rowing which is obtained here, cross the bay in a boat and scramble up through the forest. " From this height the eye takes in a range along the lake of more than 30" M., and a more beautiful rural panorama can- not often be found." The view includes the rich plains of Vermont, the Green and Adirondack Mts., and the gray ruins below. Roads run from Ticonderoga S. E. 10 - 12 M. to Hague, on Lake George, and to Paradox Lake (13 M.) and Schroon Lake (22 M.) in the W. TicoNDEROOA is a modification of Cheondei"ogo, tlie old Iroquois name for this locality. It meant " sounding waters," and ai)plied especially to the falls on tlie outlet of Lake George. The point was occupied in 1690 by Capt. Glen, with a picket of 33 men, and defensive works were bnilt. In the following year the Christian and Mohawk forces of Maj. Schuyler united here and advanced to their defeat at La Prairie. The place was then deserted for many years, until Baron de Dieskau occupied it in 1754, and in 1755 Montcalm moved up to it with a large French army, and built extensive works, which he named Fort Carillon i ("chime of bells "), in allusion to the musical cascades in the vicinity. Daring deeds of partisan warfare became frequent in the vicinity, and American rangers engaged the Canadian hunters and French infantry among the defiles and islands. In July, 1758, Gen. Abererombie advanced to attack" the fort at the liead of 7,000 regulars and 9,000 provincial troops. The English engineers reported that the works were weak, and could be carried by storm, and large reinfoi'cements were hastening to join the garrison, so Abercrombie ordered that an assault in column should be made upon the fort. In advancing through the forest the Beam regi- ment boldly engaged and checked the vanguard (composed of the 1st N. Y. and 1st and 3d Conn.). Israel Putnam and Lord Howe hurried to the front, and the gallant young Howe was almost instantly killed. "His manners and his virtues made him the idol of the army," and " in him the soul of the army seemed to ex- pire." (He is buried at tlie S. W. Corner of St. Peter's Church in Albany, and Massachusetts erected a monument to him in Westminster Abbey.) The French detachment was exterminated (200 killed, 148 prisoners), but the Anglo-American 1 " Le Drapeau de Carillon " is an old Canadian song, which may still be heard on the Lower St. Lawrence. FORT TICONDEROGiV. Route 12. 113 troops became entangled in the forest and began to fire on each other, until they were withdrawn. At 1 p. m., July 8, 1758, Abercrombie ordered out 6,000 chosen troops to storm the French works, which consisted of a line of breastworks 8 ft. high, fronted by a belt of abatis 300 ft. broad, and defended by batteries at each end (near the water). 3,250 French regulars formed the garrison, composed of the regiments of Languedoc, La Sarre, Royal Roussillon, BeiTi, La fieine, Guyenne, and the remnant of Beam. The English combatants were the 27th Enniskillen, 42d Highlanders, 44th, 46th, 55th, 60th Royal Americans, and 80th; and the Pro- vincials had the 1st and 2d N. J., 1st, 2d, and 3d Conn., and regiments from N. Y., Mass., and R. I. (also 500 Mohawks). The rangers, light infantry, and Royal Americans drew the first fire of the enemy, and were followed by the 55th and Lord John Murray's Highlanders (the " Black Watch," renowned for its conduct at Fontenoy, and composed mostly of Campbells and MacGregors). The High- land charge was superb, and crossed the abatis and ramparts under a heavy ar- tillery fire, but the little forlorn hope of Campbells were bayoneted as soon as they entered the works, dying on the verge of victory. For 4 hours there ensued a succession of fearless charges and bloody repulses, "and upon that rude barrier, which the simplest manoeuvre would have avoided, or one hour of well-plied artillery would have swejjt away, the flower of British chivalry was crushed and broken." At 7 in the evening, after two final and disastrous failures in attacks on the positions of the Guyenne and Royal Rousillon regiments, a panic seized the army, which broke up and fled in wild confusion (though unpursued) to Lake George. The French lost 380 men in the action, while several English vessels were sunk in the lake by the artillery of the fort, and 1,942 men (including 647 Highlanders and 25 Scottish ofiicers) of the Anglo-American army lay dead and wounded on the plain. The victors raised over the battle-field a lofty cross bear- ing an inscription on brass, " Pone jirincipeseorum sicut Oreb et Zeeb et Zalmunna " (Judges vii. 25 and viii. 12). In July, 1759, Lord Amherst advanced on Ticon- deroga with 11,000 men and 54 cannon, and the French garrison, weakened by the necessity of meeting Wolfe before Quebec, evacuated the place after burning the barracks and exploding the magazine. At dawn, May 10, 1775, the fort was surprised and taken by 85 New England men, who had crossed the lake on the previous evening. They were commanded by Ethan Allen and Benedict Arnold, who led them througli the sally-port and out on the parade, when (it is said) Allen aroused Capt. Delaplace, the com- mandant, and demanded the surrender of the fort " in the name of the Great Jehovah and the Continental Congress." 48 soldiers laid down their arms, and 174 cannon and vast supplies of ammunition were taken by the bold patriots. When Burgoyne advanced from Canada, in the summer of 1777, and Arnold's fleet had been defeated on the lake, Maj.-Gen. Arthur St. Clair held the fort with 2,546 Continentals, 900 militia, and 47 fortress cannon. He dismantled the works to- ward Lake George, and strongly fortified Mt. lndei)endence (remnants of the star- fort and graves of hundreds who died of camp-distemper are now found in the forest on the mt.). The bridge to Mt. Independence was a strong floating struc- ture, supported by 22 sunken piers and many floats. Burgoyne's fleet was can- nonaded and forced to keep out of gunshot, but the British succeeded in getting heavy guns upon Mt. Defiance, from which a plunging* fire was opened on the fort. On the night of July 6th, St. Clair evacuated the now untenable position, and would have escaped scathless, but that Gen. de Fermoy set fire to his quar- ters on Mt. Independence. The aroused enemy made rapid pursuit, defeated the American rear-guard at Hubbardton, and took the artillery and stores at White- hall, with 200 batteaux and the remnant of Arnold's fleet. 10 weeks later. Col. Brown, of Mass., with 1,000 men of New England, captured th^ outworks of Ticonderoga, with 200 batteaux, a war vessel, 5 cannon, and 293 jirisoners, and delivered 100 American prisoners and a Continental flag. The fort was dismantled a few weeks later, and in 1780 was reoceupied by Gen. Haldimaud with troops from Montreal. Since that time Ticonderoga has been deserted, and its well- cut stone and brick have been carried away by vessel-loads to the rising villages on the lake. It is now sealed against such invasions, and is recognized as one of the classic grounds of American history. July 18, 1872, the Vermont Historical Society had a field-day here, and there were 10^000 i)eople present. "There the first trophy of our war for independence was won, and there a soldier of the Brit- ish realm first stooped a prisoner to the aroused colonists, driven to rebellion by unnatural oppression." (Los sing.) H 114 Route 12. CROWN POINT. After leaviTig Ticoiuleroga tlie steamer passes tlirougli tlie long railway- bridge and runs N. to Larrabee's Landing, in the Verniont town of Shore ham. Fine views of tlie mts. on either side are now gained. The next landing is at Crown Point, with its summer hotel (Gunnison's) facing down the lake. 6 M. N. is the ancient fortress, and Ticonderoga is 9 JVl. S. A road leads S. W. to Paradox and Schroon Lakes; and the old State road runs W. to Schroon River {Root's Inn; 18 M.)and the S. Adirondacks (to Long Lake, 60 M. ; see Route 17). A short distance be- yond this landing the steamer passes through the Narrows between Chim- oiey Point (on the E.) and Crown Point. The ruins of the fortress of Crown Point occupy the promontory be- tween Lake Champlain and the broad Bulwagga Bay. They may be reached either by boat from Port Henrj"^, or by carriage around the bot- tom of the bay. There is a lighthouse on the outer point, but otherwise it is abandoned to its ancient remains of strength and pride. The penin- sula is 1 M. wide, and has only a thin robe of earth over limestone ledges, whose cutting away cost enormously during the erection of the fortress. Tlie ramparts (^ M. around, 25 ft. high, and 25 ft. thick, faced with stone) and ditches of the fort, its broad parade, and the massive walls of the ruined barracks, are worthy of inspection ; while from the northern bastions are gained beautiful * views of the Green Mts. in the E. and the rugged foot-hills of the Adirondacks in the W., with the lake stretching away for many leagues in the N. The main gate was in the N. curtain, and a covered way led to the lake from the N. E. bastion, in which was a deep well cut in the rock (8 ft. in diameter and 90 ft. deep). Tradition affirmed that vast treasures had been concealed in this well, and it was cleared out in 1824 by a company of 50 men. There have been many other excavations in this vicinity in hope of recovering French treasure ; but only iron and lead have yet been found. The ramparts are brilliant with blood-red thorn-apples (in their season) on dense thickets of bushes. These peculiar shrubs are found nowhere else in the State, and are said to have been brought from France. 200 yards N. E. of the great British fort, and on the steep bank of the lake, are the ruins of the older French work. Fort St. Frederic, a pentagonal star-fort, with bastioned angles. In July, 1609, Champlain, 2 Frenchmen, and 60 Hurons came up to this point in 24 bark canoes, and here they lauded and defeated the Iroquois, after passing the night in martial rites and in singing war-songs. This was 2 months before Heudrick Hudson discovered the noble river which bears his name. In 1C31 the French occupied Point a la Chevelurc (opposite this place), where they built a stone fort with 5 cannon and established a farming community. In 1666 De Com-celles ascended by boats (with 600 men) to Crown Point, whence he marched into the Mohawk country, and, on his subsequent retreat, the force was halted here for several days to "enable the stragglers to come up. The destroyers of Schenectady were pursued to Crown Point (in the winter of 1690), but here they SPLIT ROCK. Route 12. 115 put on skates and escaped. In 1731 Louis XV. of France caused Point dc la Couronne to be luitilied, to close the route to Montreal and to atlbrd a base of 8upi>lies and a menaciiig fortress on the Anylo-Aniericau frontier. Tlie works were named Fort yt. Fretleric, in honor of Frederic Maurepas, Premier of France, and consisted of a wail of limestone, high and thick, enclosing stone barracks, a church, and a tall bomb-proof tower, — the armament consisting of 62 small can- non. Tlie shores were then much more thickly settled than now, a town of 1,500 inhabitants being near tiie fort, with gardens and vineyards, stores and paved streets. The French project was to establish a new Canadian province, extending from the Connecticut River to Lake Ontario, with Crown Point as its capit;d, and the seignories of Aliana and Hoc(piart had already been surveyeil and settled. Scores of marauding parties marched from this fortress to carry tire and sword upon the English settlements ; but in 1759, after the fall of Ticonderoga. the place was evacuated. Lord Amhei*st then executed the orders of Pitt to erect here a fortress of the first class, to " cover the whole country and insure its quiet and peaceable possession." The enormous works then constructed cost the British government •"? 10,000,000. In 177:5 the barracks took fire and the powder- magazine blew up, i)artially demolishing the works ; and in 1775 Warner's Green • Mt. Boys captured tiie fort with its armament of 114 guns. 7,000 Americans re- i tl-eated herefmm Canada in 177(), and hundreds died from the small-pox. In 1777 ; Burgoyne made the fort his main depot of supplies in the advance on Albany. Rounding Crown Point, the steamer reaches Port Henry (2 inns), which ! is picturesquelj' situated at the mouth of Bulwagga Bay, near Mt. Bul- wagga (tlie N. end of the Kayaderosseras Mts. ). There are large iron- works liere, with an annual exportation of 300,000 tons of ore, which is mostly manufactured elsewhere. There are inexhaustible supi)lies of mag- netic ore in the hills to the W., and several mines are being profitably worked (a R. R, runs 7 M. N. W. to Moriah, at the mines). After leav- ing Port Henry, the Adirondacks are seen looming in the W,, Dix's Peak and the Giant of the Valley being foremost ; wliile near the lake is Bald Peak. The steamer next touches at Westport (Person's Hotel), on Northwest Bay, whence mail-stages run W. to Elizabethtown, Keene, and the Saranac Lakes (see Route 20). Soon afterward the spires of the city of Vergennes are seen on the E. shore, and the ruins of Fort Cassin, where Lieut. Cassin of the U. S. Navy repelled an attack on Macdonough's i fleet, which was being fitted out at Vergennes. Split Eock is soon ' reached on the W. .shore, and is a rock | acre in extent and 30 ft. high, which is separated from the mt. (the northernmost of the Schroon range) by a deep cleft 12 ft. wide. This remarkable cliff was anciently called Regiochne, or the Rock Regio, from an eminent Indian chief who was drowned here. It was the boundary between the Mohaw^^s and the Algonquins, whose territories were resjjectively occupied by the English and French ; and in 1710 it was acknowledged as the limit of the English dominions (Treaty of Utrecht). In 1700 the Rock Regio was fixed as the boundary between New York and Canada, leaving the present sites of Burlington, St Albans, Plattsburgh, Ogdeusburgh, etc., to the latter province. This limit was officially acknowledged as late as 1774 ; but in the following years the Americans passed it under arms, and won, and still hold, the territory for 77 M. to the N. Rounding Split Rock, the steamer soon reaches the landing at Essex (Royce's Hotel), a pleasant village under the hills. 5-6 M. N., near the mouth of the Boquet River, a colony was planted by the pioneer, Gilliland. in 1765. The set- t tier.-i aided Montgomery's army in its march, and for this they were driven away by Gen. Burgoyne. The British army encamped here for 6 days, during which 1 1 G Route 12. BURLINGTON. Biirgoyne made that celebrated speech to the Indian auxiliaries which Edmund liurke denounced in Parliament. The. rear division of the retreating British garrison of Crown Point was captured here by the Vermonters. Near the middle of tlie lake is the dark cliff called Rock Dunder, Avhich was once cannonaded by a British war-vessel. It was suspected of being a Yankee infernal machine. Shelhurnc Bay is now seen opening on the Vermont shore. It is 4 M. long, and is the winter quarters and ship-yard of the Champlain steamers. Camel's Hump Mt. looms up due E. ; and the islets called the Four Brothers (and by the French, Les Isles ties Quaires Vents) are passed in the middle of the lake. On the W. are the Boquet Mts., tenninating in the lofty cliffs about Perou Bay. Passing on into the widest part of the lake, a white city is seen on the N. E., and the steamer soon reaches Burlington. Hotels. — American House, S3 a day ; Van Ness House ; both on the public Sijuare. Sieumers twice daily vip or down Lake Champlain ; also steam-ferry twice daily to Port Kent and Plattsburyh. Railroads to New York. 310 M. ; to Boston, L'32 M.; to the White Mts.. 1G5 M. ; to Saratoga, 130 M.; to St. Albans, 32 M.; to Montreal, 95 M. (see Osgood's New Kngland). Burlington, " the Queen City of Vermont," is beautifully situated on a long sloping hill on the E. shore of Burlington Bay. It is the largest city in the State, and has a population of 15,000, with 15 churches and 2 banks. In 1798 Burlington had 815 inhabitants, and between 1860 and 1870 the gain in population was 105 per cent. It became a city in 1865, and is now the third lumber-mart in America. Most of the lumber is brought from the Canadian forests, and is assorted and planed here; after "vvhich it is sent by rail to Boston and other Eastern cities. Immense (piantities are loaded directly from the cars to the vessels (in Boston) which convey them to distant ports. 40-50,000,000 ft. of lumber are sent away from Burlington yearly. The wharves and grounds about the freight-station are usually covered with piles of plank and boards. Sev- eral of the churches are fine buildings, especially the * Cathedral of St. Mary, a large and picturesquely irregular structiire. St. Paul's Episcopal Church is an old Gothic building of blue limestone, with stained windows. This is the church of the bishop, whose diocese (the State of Vt.) has 27 priests and 2,655 conmvunicants. There are also handsome Congregational and Methodist churches, built of Burlington stone. Near the square, in the centre of the city, is a neat government building (Post-Office and Custom- House), and the elegant Court-House of Cliittenden County. The University of Vermont occupies an eligible situation on the summit of Burlington Hill, 1 M. from the Bay, and 367 ft. above it. This insti- tution was incorporated in 1791, and began operations in 1800, the Pres- ident being the only instructor for the first 6 years, when there were about 30 students. Its connection with the State is but nominal, and BURLINGTON. Route 12. 117 lias brought it no emolument since its foundation, when Vermont en- dowed it with a grant of 29,000 acres of land. In 1813 the building was taken by the United States, and was used throughout the war for an arsenal and barracks. In 1824 the buildings were burnt, and were re- built in 1825, the corner-stone being laid by the Marquis de Lafayette. In 1S71 the University had 16 instructors, lli students, and 900 alumni, and the Medical School had 5 instructors and 25 students. In 1865 the State Agricultural College was united with the University, and has able instructors and costly instrumeiits, but wants a student. There are 60,000 specimens in the natural-history cabinets, and 15,000 volumes in the library. The 3 halls of the University have been joined in one building, which is surmounted by a bright tin-covered dome, whence is gained a superb * view. On the W., Lake Champlain is seen from below Crown Point on the S. to Plattsburgh on the N., witli uuiiierous isl.uul.-i surrounded by the briglit watei-s which have become cdassic in American history. The lake is 10 M. wide here, and near the middle are the Four Brothers islets. Beyond the lake, the ancient blue Adirondacks till the horizon, over GO peaks being visible on a clear day, prominent among which are Mclntyre, Whiteface, and Marcy, the latter being the highest peak between the White and the Alleghany Mts. The plains of Chittenden County are seen in tlie N. E., over the village of AVinooski ; and in the E. are the stately Green Mts., the Verts Monts for which the State was named. Mt. Mansfield, Camel's Hump, and other well-known jieaks are plainly visible, with a vast exiianse of farm-lands filling the foreground. Burlington City is overlooked on the W., stretching down to the shores of its bay. The * sunset over tlie lake and the Adirondacks, when seen from this dome, or from the little park N. "W. of the central square, is full of beauly. " Si)lendor of landscaiie is the peculiar boast or' Burlington," said President Uwight, in 1798 ; and Fredrika Bremer speaks of the distant " mountain forms, picturesquely combined with a certain degree of grandeur and boldness." The view looking W. toward the Adirondacks she pronouiu^ed superior to any lake-view which she had ever seen, excepting only one on Lake Geneva. Near the University is the Green Mt. Cemetery, where Ethan Allen is buried under a Tuscan column 42 ft. high, which is surmounted by a statue of the brave chieftain. The village of Winooski is at the lower falls on the Winooski River, near the romantic ravine at the High Bridge, where the impetuous stream has cut a gorge through the soliil i-ock, 90 ft. deep and 70 ft. wide. Burlington is an academic city, having, besides the University, several fine schools, among which is the Female Seminary (founded in lS.'3o)," which has 900 alumme. The Vermont Kpiscopal Institute is on Rock Point, 2-.'3 M. from the city, and near the laue. It lias a fine marble building in collegiate Gothic architectiu-e, with a small but elegant chapel, a massive tower, and a library which is rich in patristic literature. The theological department has 5 professors and 50 students, with 231 alumni, and is said to be the most expensive divinity-school in the Union. About 2 M. S. of the city is the U. S. Marine hospital, fronting on the lake. Burlington was settled about 1775, and was named in honor of the Burling family (of New York), M'ho were among the grantees. It lay on the route by the Winooski valley, which had been so often traversed by the Northern Indians in their forays on Mass. It was fortified and garrisoned by 4,000 troops in the War of 1812, and in the War of 1861-65 sent many soldiers to the national armies. 118 Route 12. AUSABLE CHASM. Leaving Burlington, Juniper Island is passed on the 1., and Rock Point on the r., and the steamer runs N. W. across the lake to Port Kent, an iron-exporting station under Mt. Trembleau. The old Watson mansion is seen on a hill over the village. Stages run from Port Kent (leaving early) to the Adirondacks and Saranac Lakes (see Pioute 19) ; also to Keeseville {Au Sable House; Adirondack), 5 M. distant. 2-3 M. "W., on the Keeseville road, is the * Ausable Chasm. Near Keeseville, the Ausable River flows between high banks of sandstone to a fall over 20 ft. high, beyond which it descends a line of white rapids to the * Birming'- ' ham Falls (Chasm House, in the adjacent hamlet). The river here plunges over a precipice 60 ft. high, and enters a profound and narrow chasm which is bordered by vertical walls of Potsdam sandstone, 70-150 ft. high. The river is compressed into the width of 8-30 ft., and rushes down with great velocity. Lower down, the walls are about 50 ft. apart and 100 ft. high, and extend for ^ M. like great piers of artificial masonry. The length of the chasm is nearly 2 M.; and its sides and top are frhiged with cedars, and are cut by lateral fissures. Fredrika Bremer said that "a visit to the chasm would reward a voyage from Europe" ; and it is claimed that it successfully rivals the famous Swiss Gorge die Trient. A bridge crosses the river in the spray of the Falls, and a long stairway descends (in 212 steps) to the Table Rock and the bottom of the gorge. Railings, walks, and stairways have lately been made there, and the numerous interesting points in the chasm may be visited with ease. The new and first-class Lake View Hotel is near the entrance. 6-8 M. N. of Port Kent, tlif. steamer traverses the narrow channel between Valcour Island and the iiiaiuhiiKl, where Arnold's fleet of 15 small vessels was attacked by a powerful British squadron. After a hot day's battle, in which 3 vessels were sunk, the Americans attenii)ted to retreat by night, but were closely pursued. The flag-ship Congress was surrounded by hostile ships, and fought desperately for 4 hours, until the van and centre of the fleet liad escaped, when Arnold ran her ashore and blew her up. Grand Isle, or South Hero, is now seen on the N. E., and the steamer enters Cumberland Bay, passes the long mole, with its lighthouses, and stops at Plattsburgh (* Fouquet's Hotel, a summer house, with spacious gardens overlooking the lake; Cumberland House, $2.50 a day; Wither- elVs Hotel). Plattsburgh, the capital of Clinton County, is a flourishing town of about 6,000 inhabitants, situated at the mouth of the Saranac River, and benefited by a large water-power, on which are located lumber and flour mills. Trinity Church and the Clinton County buildings front on the Park, near Margaret St.; and farther S. on that street is the fine building of the U. S. Custom-House and Post-Office. On Cornelia St. is St. Peter's R. C. Church (Oblate Fathers), near which is a quaint old French nunnery. Near the Post-Office is the fine stone Presbyterian Church, also the new Catholic Church of St. John. On a sandy plain PLA.TTSBURGH. Route 12. 119 1 M. S. of the village are the extensive U. S. Barracks, a frontier military post of some importance. Ill Sept., 1814, after Izard's army had marched to Sackett's Harbor, Gen. Macomb was left in command at Plattsburgh with 3,500 men (including militia, broken detachments, and invalids). Sir George Prevost, witli 14,000 veteran troops, advanced rapidly against this small force, designing to occupy the country as far down as Ticonderoga. Tlie British vanguard was badly cut up by several attacks of the militia, on the advance from Chazy, while Macomb erected 3 foi-ts to cover the village on the peninsula between the Saranac River and Lake Cham- jilain. Over 200 British were killed and wounded on the advance, and their lirst siege-battery was destroyed by a bold sortie. On the moniing of Sejit. 13, 1814, Prevost opened a heavy fire from his artillery, under whose protection 3 col- umns of choice troops attempted to cross the Saranac River to storm the American works. Three of these assaults were repulsed by the riflemen and the cannonade from the forts ; but the third column crossed at tlie upper ford, driving back the militia of Essex County. A strong force of Vermonters was moved up to the support of tlie latter corps, and a sanguinary action was immi- nent, when suddenly the British force was recalled across the Saranac. The de- feat of the i-oyal fleet on the lake had caused Prevost to suspend the attack. The Americans fought the battle with 1,500 regulars, 700 N. Y. militia, and 2,500 men of Vermont. The N. Y. and Vt. militia were now rapidly converging on Platts- burgh, and a letter prepared by Rev. Eleazer Williams (" The Lost Bourbon Prince," — then in the American service) and sent so as to be captured by Prevost, gave the false information that 10,000 Vermonters and 9,000 N. Y. militia were advancing on the British line of retreat. Dispirited by the loss of the fleet, alarmed at the gathering of the State troops, ami apprehensive of a second Bur- goyne's surrender, Prevost withdrew his splendid army during the night, leaving his hospitals and army stores. The British lost 2,000 men in this brief campaign, while the American loss was less than 150. The incompetency of Sir George Prevost was bitterly censured in Canada, and procured his disgrace by the home government ; wliile Gen. Macomb received the proudest honors of the Republic, and was geueral-in-chief of its armies from 1836 until his death in 1841. At 8 o'clock in the morning of Sept. 8, when the royal troops were advancing on the Saranac fords, the British fleet rounded Cumberland Head. It was led by Commodore Downie, and consisted of the Confiance, 38, the Linnet, 16, the Chiib and the Finch, 11 guns each, and 12 gunboats. The American fleet, anchored in a double line between Crab Island and Cumberland Head, was commanded by Com- modore Macdonough, and consisted of the ,S'ara^O(/a, 2Q, Eagle, 20, Ticon'deronm&. * >• ll.CAifst C^tarfi Cfiffn-aram. 3. 13. (f^su (JefuOs) y>^. l^.St.J'iitTic*s (CafHy -J>4 X^AmtrieoLn B t. ifiJrinify. ^f. V^.Jiutn7>anu J^- /ivmecourf F. &• \S.StJaniff'(Cii1hj 3'. 3. |i-^''«J< -- -/^. Aa. r*-^""""'i^ ^'diJ'ulpi'X E.5. 26.J?.afeyj,j Cafte^e.. - "0.3. t^.M Olson !* _ _■ _ _ H 4* 3Xvi^A>i*. . B 3 . 32.>/<77o7'/a ^ywirl. . _ D.4. 33J"/a£-e /'i^rVier: K 5 o4/^er ASqutiri;. _ J'.4, 35 Champ dvMaj>s J?. .J. — r Hotels. ^.ii.LaWrtfnce Hntl. _E 4. yi.Oiia^n. XXS. i^Vitbion . . D.5 40.H.]i.tfioH^n .C.5. DDDD DD BUUDQ I ' ST. JOHNS. Route 13. 121 I The Grand Trunk Railway (branch line) nxns from Rouse's Point to I Montreal in 50 M., passing near Fort Montgomery, and following the ' level 1. bank of the Richelieu River to St. Johns, a quaint and antiquated (village near the head of the Chambly Rapids. It is situated on a level plain, and is connected with the suburb of St. Athanase by a fine bridge . over the Richelieu. Near the military barracks is a large trophy-cannon from Sebastopol. Visitors at this quiet old town usually ride down the I river-road to Chambly/, a pleasant village 12 M. N. E., on a lake-like ex- r pansion of the Richelieu, called Chambly Basin. The Richelieu flows toward the N. E. almost parallel with the St. liawrence, which it joins at Lake St. Peter, 70 M. distant. The Marquis de Montcalm built a fort at St Johns, which was strengthened by . Gov. Carleton. Benedict Arnold'-; American fleet was repulsed in an attack in 1775, but the fort was afterwards besieged by Gen. Montgomery, and after six weeks of blockade and cannonade it surrendered, Avith 600 British regulars and 48 heavy cannon. It was stripped and abandoned on the advance of Burgoyne. ) Chambly was fortified by the French in 1711, and in 1775 it had a strong stone j fort built by the British, with massive towers at its angles. Large supi>lies were stored here, but the commander was inefficient, and the works were captured by I tlie Americans in October, 1775. It was retaken by Burgoyne, and served as an ' exercising gi-ound for the Montreal garrison until the English military evacuation of Canada. In the crypt of the Catholic Church is buried De Salabcrry, Seigneur de Cliambly, who resisted the Americans with such valorand success at the battle . of Chateaugay, that lie ever after bore the title of " the Canadian Leonidas." 12 M. from Chambly is Beloeil Mt. Other excursions from St. Johns are to Scotch '. Mt. (6 M. over a good road), which conmiands a view of the Green Mts. and the I border counties, and to the Chambly Rapids on the Richelieu. St. Johns is the ; N. terminus of the Central Vermont R. R. to St. Albans, Lowell, and Boston (see ! Osgood'^ New England ; Route 29). I From St. Johns the line runs N. W. across the fair and fertile plains of the parish of La Prairie to .S^^. Lambert, crossing the Montreal River at . Lacaclie. At St. Lambert the train crosses the St. Lawrence River on the \ wonderful * Victoria Bridge, and then stops at MontreaL t " The sun suddenly shone out, gilding the lofty towers of the cathedral, the tall spires of the churches, the domes and tinned roofs that stretched along the river for more than 1^ M., to which the bold wooded mt. on the rear formed a majestic background. I was at once remhided of Auxerre, Montre\iil, and other old provincial cities of France." (Bayard Taylor.) 13. Montreal. Hotels. —St. Lawrence Hall, on Great St. James St., $4.50 (Canadian) a day, Ottawa House : St. James ; Montreal House; Donnegana Hotel, Notre Dame St. ; Albion, S 2.00 a day. Shops. — Tlie most attractive are on Great St. James and Notre Dame Sts. American money is usually received at the reigning rates of exchange, but it is advisable to purchase sufficient C^unadian money for the tour at one of the banks on the Place d'Armes or St. James St. Carriages. — One-horse carriages, for 1-2 persons, 25c. a course (within the city), 60c. an hour; for 3-4 persons, 40c. a course, 70c. an hour. Two-hoi-se carriages, for 1 - 2 persons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour; for 3-4 persons, 50c. a course, sgl.OO an hour. Horse-cars traverse the city on Craig, Bleury, and St 6 122 Route 13. MONTREAL. Catharine Sts. ; also on St. Marj', Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawrence Main St. Stages run to all the atljateut villages, and to Chambly, St'. Sauveur, ami St. Canut. Hallways. — To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 420 M. (bv Lake Cham- jilain, ityo M.) ; to Rouse's Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto. 333 M. (14 - 15 hrs.) ; to De- troit, 564 M. ; to Chicago, 848 M. ; to Ottawa, 10() M. ; to Quebec, 173 M. (in 7-9 hrs.); to Boston, 334 M. (by Lowell), or 344 M. by Fitchburg. Also to Newport, Vt., by the S. E. Railway, 79 M. ; to Waterloo, 7o'M. ; to Chambly and W. Farn- ham (35 M.). Steamers. — The Dominion Line steamships leave weekly (in summer) for Liverpool ; vessels of the Gult Ports S. S. Line to Quebec, Fatlier Point, Charlotte- town, Shediac, and Pi(t(>u,WL-ckly ; Canad. Navig. Co. boats daily to tlie river-ports to the W., Kingston, Toronto, and Hamilton (see Route 28) ; daily from Ln.. 1 16. Rusiel House. . . 27. DanitrsHottL . j8. Ridiau FaU^. . . 29. Chiudiifs 'Falls, jo. Suspension Bridge. rHsaoonE ar. OTTAWA. Route 15. 129 I? ail way s. — The St. Lawrence and Ottawa, to Presco t in 54 M. The Canada Central to Carleton Place ^28 M.), whence the Brockville and Ottawa runs S. to Brockville (46 M.), and N. to Renfrew (41 M.). Other lines are projected, es- pecially two to Montreal. Steamboats. — The Royal Mail Line for Montreal, morning and evening boats. Tne Union Forwarding Co.'s steamers leave Aylmer for Arnprior, Pembroke, and Deux Rivieres, 188 M. N. W. (see page 132). In 1613 Champlain and 3 Frenchmen ascended the Ottawa far above Lake Coulonge and Isle des Aluraettes, passing where, "on their 1., the falling cur- tain of the Rideau shone like silver between its bordering woods, and in front, white as a snow-drift, the cataracts of the Chaudiere barred their way Here, Avhile New England was a solitude, and the settlers of Virginia' scarcely dared ventui'c inland beyond the sound of cannon-shot, Caamiilain was plant- ing on the shores and islands the emblems of his faiih." (Parkman.) In 1760 Philemon Wright, of Woburn, Mass., came into this remote wilderness in search of a new home, and in 1798 - 99 he made other explorations here. In ISOO he left Woburn with 25 men, 5 families, 14 horses, 8 oxen, and supplies, and advanced from the St. Lawrence to the Chaudiere Falls by roads of his own cut- ting and upon the frozen river. He settled at the foot of the great i)ortage around the falls, and began an energetic campaign against the forest. By 1824 he had cleared 3,000 acres, made a road 120 M. long, and built a village which had a popu- lation of 1,000 (mostly New-Englanders). This settlement was on the site of the l)resent village of Hull, while the chief of tlie Highland clan of McNab, with a large number of his clansmen, had located above. But Mr. Wright's capital was limited, and at one time he owed an Irish teamster named Sparks for arrears of wages. Having no nioney, he offered him the tall hills beyond the river in pay- ment of his claim. This Sparks contemptuously refused, but aiterwards, conclud- ing that the liills were better than nothing, he took them in lieu of ij^SOO. It was but a few years, however, before this point became the terminus of the Rideau Canal, and Sir John Franklin, in an address at the foundation of the canal-locks (in 1827), predicted that the Capital of Canada would be here. The town which soon arose from the canal-trade and the lumber business on the river was named By town, for Col. By, of the Royal Engineers, who surveyed the canal-route. In 1851 there were 8,000 inhatjitants here, living in a very crude and lawless condi- tion. Some year.s later It was deemed best that Canada should have but one capi- tal, and the ancient provincial capitals, Quebec, Montreal, Kingston, and Toronto, strove earnestly for the honor. Tiie contest became so bitter, and so little chance was there of a settlement, that the question was referred by the Canadian Parlia- ment to Queen Victoria for her arbitration. The surprise was great when she chose Ottawa, and one provincial statesman proclaimed in Parliament, " I tell you candidly, gentlemen, you might as well send the seat of Government to Lab- rador." This was in 1858, and the first session of Parliament here was in 1865, since which the city has grown rapidly in population, culture, and beauty. Ott.vwa, the capital of the Dominion of Canada, occupie.s a, fine situa- tion at the confluence of the Ottawa and Rideau Rivers. It is divided into three sections, known as the Lower, Centre, and Upper Towns, and is connected by bridges with the manufacturing suburbs of Hull and New Edinburgh. The city is now in a very unfinished condition, but improve- ments are rapidly going on. There are 21,545 inhabitants, many of whom are connected with the lumber business, and over 8,000 are French Cana- dians. There are 17 churches, 5 daily papers, and 7 banks. Besides the immense lumber-mills there are several iron-works, two large breweries, and a match-factory employing 700 hands, and making 1,000 gross daily. * * The Parliament Buildings are situated on the highest land in the city, and occupy a plateau of 30 acres, 160 ft. above the Ottawa River. They are in the 13th-century Italian Gotliic architecture, and are probably <]* I 130 Route 15. OTTAWA. the best example of that style in America or the world. The material is cream-colored Potsdam sandstone (from Nepean), with trimmings of Ohio stone and Arnprior marble. There are 3 buildings, forming 3 widely detached sides of a quadrangle, and fronting toward Wellington St. The central building, or Parliament House, is 472 ft. long and 570 ft. deep, and covers an area of 82,866 scjuare ft. With its long lines of pointed windows, its massive buttresses, and the 13 towers and many pinnacles, it is only excelled in majestic beauty by the Capitol at Washington. In the centre of the front is a noble Victoria tower ISO ft. high, very massive and well ornamented, and surmounted by a great ii'on crown. The main entrance is tlirough the broad arches under tliis tower, and the quaint and delicate carvings on and about the capitals of the inner columns shouM be noticed; also the imperial arms above the doorway. A bare and spa- cious lobby is entered from this point, with a line of pointed arches up- held by marble columns. The front of the building is occupied by com- mittee-rooms and offices, and the Parliament Halls are in two lofty wings extending to the N. Ascending the stairs and turning to the 1. from the entrance the Chamber of Commons is soon reached. The hall is 82 X 45 ft., and 50 ft. high, and is richly furnished. It is surrounded by pilasters of gray marble from Portage du Fort, supplemented along the galleries by clusters of small columns of dark Arnprior marble, which sustain pointed arches of gray marble. Above the galleries (which seat 1,000 persons) are lines of long lancet-windows filled with stained glass. The roof is of glass and stained wood, and is provided with gas-jets and reflectors for night sessions. The lobbies of the Chamber of Commons and of the Senate are lined with portraits of Canadian statesmen, some of which possess much artistic merit. The Senate Hall is reached to the r. from the entrance, and is of the same size as the Commons. At the upper end of this hall is the vice-regal throne and canopy, flanked by busts of the Princess Alex- andi-a and the Prince of Wales. At the opposite end is a marble statue of Queen Victoria (by Wood), above which is a portrait of that lady at tlie time of her coronation. At the same side are full-length * portraits of King George III. and Queen Charlotte, both by Sir Joshua Reynolds. On the N. front of the building a unique and imposing structure has been built for the Library. It is a 16-sided polygon, 90 ft. in diameter, Avith enormous buttresses and a lofty conical roof. The library (30 - 40,000 vohmies) is to be removed hei'e from its present cramped quarters. The irregular and picturesque stone buildings on the E. and W. of the quad- rangle are used by the various departments and bureaux of the Govern- ment. The E. block (318 x 258 ft.) is over the defile of the Rideau Canal, and contains the offices of the Governor-General, the Secretary of State, tlie Privy Council, the Registrar, Receiver-General, and Minister of the Militia, and the Departments of Customs^ Inland Revenue, and Justice. OTTAWA. Route 15. 131 The W. block (277 x 211) contains the Departments of Public Works, Post-Office, Militia, and Marine and Fisheries, with the Bureau of Agri- culture and the Model-room of the Patent Department. From the. W. side of this building (or of the Parliament House) is afforded a fine * view over and far up the river, with vast lumber-yards lining the shores and the bright Chaudiere Falls in sight. The quadrangle is being terraced and planted with trees, and the front is lined with a costly stone-wall. A pleasant ramble has been arranged along the cliffs which descend sheer from the plateau to the river, and an iron bridge has been thrown across ■the Rideau Canal near the buildings. The corner-stone of the Parlia- ment House was laid by the Prince of Wales in 1860, and the total cost of the buildings has been $ 4,000,000. The official residence of the Gov- ernor-General (the Earl of Dufferin) is at Rideau Hall, in New Edinburgh. Tliere are some fine commercial buildings on the two main streets, — Sparks and Sussex, — and the Churches of St. Patrick (Cath.), St. Andrew (Pres.), and Christ (Epis.) are handsome stone structures. The Cathedral de Notre Dame is a lofty and spacious building, with openworked twin- spires (200 ft. high) and a light interior, containing a picture, " The Flight into Egypt," which is attributed to Murillo. The hall of the Institut Canadien-Fran^ais (300 members; 6,000 volumes in library) is opposite the Cathedral, and the Bishop's Palace is alongside. The G7'ay Nunnery (the Mother-House of the Province of Ontario) is a large stone building at the corner of Bolton and Sussex Sts. There are 150 nuns, who care for 5 hospitals and asylums in the city. Tlie Black Nunnery (Congrega- tion de Notre Dame) have buildings near Cartier Square. The Convents of Bon Pasteur and the Freres Oblats are also substantial buildings. The Ottaioa University (on Wilbrod St.) is a Catholic institution; and the large building of the Protestant Ladies' College stands on Albert St. The City Hall and the Custom-House are in process of erection, and water-works are being prepared at a cost of $1,000,000. In the ravine E. of the Parliament Buildings are the 8 massive locks of the Eideau Canal, which was built in 1827-31, from Ottawa to Kingston (126 M.), at a cost of $2,500,000. It was destined for transporting troops and supplies in case of a war with the U. S., when the St. Lawrence might be made impassable; and is now used for freight and inland commerce. The * * Chaudidre Falls are about 1 M. from the Parliament Buildings (horse-cars in 15 min. ), and are often ranked next to Niagara, The Ottawa River (after passing the Rapides des Chenes) is here narrowed to 200 ft., and plunges down 40 ft. over an imeven ledge, producing an incessant roaring, and sending off clouds of misty spray. The N. channel leaps dowTi the Little Chaudiere Fall and disappears, emerging again ^ M. below. The falls are seen to advantage from the graceful suspension- bridge which connects Ottawa and Hull and the two provinces; for the Ottawa River is the boundary between Ontario and Quebec. 132 Route 15. THE OTTAWA RIVER. To obviate the destruction of timber in plunging over the falls, a series of slides has been constructed by a canal f M. long around the Chaudiere. 40,000,000 ft. oi" timber descend here yearly, and tourists sometimes make the exciting passage of the slides (by permission from the raftsmen). Ottawa is the chief lumber-mart of Canada, and in the 7 mills about the falls 4,500 men are employed, producing yearly about 200,000,000 ft. of pine lumber, of which 45-55,000,000 ft. is kept piled near the mills. 270,OOJ gross of m;itches, 600,000 pails, 45,000 tubs, and 72,000 zinc wash-boards are n>ade here yearly. 16,000 men are employed in the vast forests o the Ottawa and its tributaries, — the Gatineau, Madawaska, Coulonge, Black, Petewawa, and Riviere du Moine, — 10,000 men are in the river-mills, and 17,000 sailors man the 1,200 vessels which cany away the timber. The * Rideau Falls are Avortliy of a visit. Tliey are reached by the horse-cars running E. from the Upper Town. The Rideau River, wlien within a few rods of its confluence with the Ottawa, here falls over a preci- I'/ice of smooth rock 50 - 60 ft. deep. The falls are surrounded by mills, but may be visited by leaving the street at the E. end of the bridge. llie Ujyper Ottawa River. The Ottawa River is navigated for 188 M. above Ottawa by the 14 steamers of the Union Navigation Co. The portages are somewhat trouble.=!ome, but tourists frerpiently take this route to visit the outposts of civilization, or to reach the N. sporting-grounds. Stages run from Ottawa to Ayliner (Holt's Hotel), a large village with 4 churclies, wlienee the steamer Jcsde Ca^neLi starts on the first reach of tlie river (early in the morninj;). As the X)ier is left, tlie range of the Eardley Hills is seen in the distance beyond Aylmer Bay. Long lines of lumber-booms are found on this reach ; and the steamer passes timber-rafts bearing low square sails and numerous huts, and great islands of logs drifting down to the Ottawa saw-mills. These rafts are managed by French Canadians and Indian half-breeds, — hardy, powerful, and semi-civilized men, who still chant the old Norman boat- songs amid these wild forests. After passing several landings, the steamer stops at noon at Pontiac (36 M. from Ottawa), where the river sweeps down the Chats liapids through an ar(;hipelago of pieturesciue islets. From this point horse-cars run on a trestle-work S M. long (in 20 min.) to Union Village, whence the Prince Arthur passes out on the Chats Lake (a widening of the Ottawa, 3 M. broad and 25 M. long). The steamer stops at Arnprior (2 inns), a prosperous village at the mouth of the Madawaska River, near cjuarries of colored marble (also a station on the Canada Central Railway, 69 M. from Brockville). At the end of the lake, the Cheneaux Rapids are shnvly ascended ; and at 5 p. m. the toui-ist lands at Gould's, and rides in an omnibus over a wearisome forest-road 13 M. long (the Grand Portage). From Ci>bden, the Jason Govld steams out on Musk- rit'^Jjake, and runs through a narrow and tortuous channel among the islands to Pembroke (8.30 p. M.). T!;e night is spent at tliis jilace, which is the most important village N. of Ottawa, and is also a supply-depot for the remote lumbci'- eamps. The Pontiac leaves Pembroke at 7 a. m., and passes through the dark and cliff-lined reach called Deep River, reaching the Des Joachim poitage ,-t noon. Beyond this point tlie Rocl^rr Capitaive runs for 20 M.; and thence the Dciix Rivieres passes to the end of the route, 188 M. N. W. of Ottawa. Steamor.s have lately benun to run to Mattawa, a remote forest-hamlet (and a })ost of tlin Hudson's Bay Con)])any) due E. of Lake Nipissing, beyond which the unexplored Ottawa extends toward Hudson's Bay. The Lower Ottaiva River. — Ottawa to Montreal. Tlie day-boats leave at C.30 a. m., and reach Lachine at 4.20 p. m. (Montreal at 5 p. m). The Rideau Falls are soon passed on the r. ; and 1 M. below the city the Gatineau River comes in on the 1., after a course of 350 M. The boat stoji.s .•it Buckincrham (])lumbago mines), Thurso, and L'Orignal, which is 9 M. from the Caledonia Springs (large summer hotel). "The Canadian Harrowgate " is crowded with Visitors in August ; and its waters are iodo-bromated and saline, beneficial in cases of gout, rheumatism, and scrofula. Tlie Intermittent Spring is 2 M. from the hotel. At Grcnvllh the traveller takes the cars aroimd the Long LUZERNE LAKE. Route IG. 133 Saiilt and Carillon Rapids to Carillon (12 M.), whence another runs to Rigaud, the seat of tlie Convent of St. Anne. Beyond the landings of Pointe-aux- Anglais and Hudson is Conio, at the head of the Lake of tiie Two Mountains. On the 1. is seen the Indian village of Oka, near two tall hills, the highest of which is called Calvary, and is held as sacred by the Indians. The Island of Montreal is now ai)proa<;hed ; and at St. Anne a canal is entered, and the boat thus avoids the rapids, and jjasses under the great railway-bridge. It then traverses Lake St. Louis to Lachine, whence the railway is taken to Montreal. In the quaint old village of St. Anne, Tom Moore wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning, — " Fanitly as tolls the evening chime, Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. Sot>n as the woods on shore look dim. We'll sin? at .St. Anne s our evening hymn. Row, brothers, row, the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near, and the dayhglit s past. " Uttawas' tide ! this trembling moon Shall see us float o er thy surges soon. Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; O, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs I Blow, breezes, blow, the stream runs fast, The Rapids are near, and the daylight s past." 16. Saratoga to the Sclirooii and Raquette Lakes. By the Adirondack Railroad to North Creek (57 M.\ and thence by stage to Blue Mt. Lake in 9-12 hrs. (27 M.). Passengers leaving Albany or Saratoga by early trains can reach Blue Mt. Lake the same night. Fare to Hadley (Luzerne), $ 1 ; to Thurman, i;jl.75; to Riverside, $2.25. The Adirondack Railroad is being made for tlie i)urpose of opening the great forest of N. New York, which it will cross diagonally to Ogdensburg on the St. Lawrence. The rich deposits of iron about Mt. Marcy will then be utilized, and a new route will be made for Western grain moving to the seaboard. Tlie line was first projected in 1854, and 500,000 acres of land were acquired by grant and purchase. The 57 M. of track already laid (with its equipments) cost tj 2,000,000. Stations, Saratoga ; Greenfield, 6 M. ; King's, 10 ; S. Corinth, 13 ; Jessup's Landing, 17 ; Hadley, 22 ; Stony Creek, 30 ; Thurman, 36 ; The Glen, 44 ; Wash- burn's Eddy, 47 ; Riverside, 50 ; North Creek, 57. The train leaves the R. & S. station at Saratoga and soon enters the Kayaderosseras Valley, — a belt of fertile land devoted to dairy-farms and apple-orchards. It is 6 M. wide, and is bonnded by the Palraertown and Kayaderosseras Ranges of mts. Station, Greenjield, near which Schuyler and 600 Dutchmen and Mohawks defeated 625 Frenchmen and Algon- quins while on their retreat from a foray against the Mohawk castles. The French lost 60 men, and tlien retreated rapidly with their dog-sledge I»rovisiou-trains, crossing the Hudson on a bridge of ice. The train passes along the base of Mt. Anthony, crosses the Sacandaga on a lofty bridge, and stops at Hadley (Cccscade House, § 12- 15 a week), a small handet at the confluence of the Hudson and Sacandaga Rivers. On the opposite bank of the Hudson is the mt. village of Luzerne {* Wayside Hotel, $3.50 a day; * RockwelVs Hotel, $3 a day, ^14-21 a week; Wilcox House, $ 14 - 18 a week). The lofty hemispherical hill called the Potash is near the village, and overlooks the cluster of mts. about the glen. Jessup's Little Falls are near Luzerne, where the Hudson dashes through a narrow gorge and falls between high cliffs. Phelps' Bay (Tiserando, **the meeting of the waters") is at the confluence of the rivers, and 134 Route 16. SCHROON LAKE. affords abiindant pickerel and bass fishing. Luzerne Lake is a small body of water near the village, 700 ft. above the sea, and rich in quiet beauty. Several small boats are kept here for visiting parties. Jessup's Landing is 5 M. S. by a pleasant river- road; Conklingville is 6 M. W., up the Sa- candaga Valley ; and Lake George is 10 M. N. E. by a road which passes through pleasant scenery. The Mohawks had a favorite rendezvous on the W. shore of the lake, and here King Hendrick and liis men encamped while marching to their destruction at the battle of Lake George. Sir John Johnson led a force by this ])oint in 1781, and occui>ied his old mansion long enough to remove the family plate to Canada. The name of the lake was given in honor of the Chevalier de la Luzerne, French Am- bassador to the U. S. from 1778 to 1783. The village is much visited in summer on account of its scenery, the facilities for fishing, and the pure air of its lofty pine-plains. Fare from New York to Lake Luzerne, $5.15. Wolf Creek station is situated near large quarries of red, gray, and green granite. Stany Creek is 2 M. E. of the mt. hamlet of Creek Centre (2 inns). Thunaan station is 1 M. from Athol and 6 M. from the large marble and verd-antique qxxarries (abounding in Eozoon Canadense) at Kenyontown. Stages leave Thurman semi-daily (in summer) for Lake George, 9 M. S. E. By this road the Schroon Biver is followed to War- rensbiirgh (Adirondack House), a manufacturing village on a lofty plateau surrounded by hills. Beyond this point the plank road passes through a hill-gap, and descends to the plains of Caldioell (see page 104). The train now enters Johnsburgh, with the Kayaderosseras Mts. on the 1. Their chief peak is Crane Mt., 3,500 ft. high, near whose summit is a pond which is frequented by cranes. Tlie profde of this mt. as seen from War- rensburgh (11 M. S. E.) resembles that of the human face. The Glen station is 5 M. S. W. of Chestertown {Chester House), which is near Friend's and Loon Lakes. To the N. E. is the wildem ess-town of Hori- con, dotted with ponds, the chief of which is Brant Lake (10 M. long), surrounded by the rocky peaks of the Kayaderosseras range. At the Riverside station is a long suspension bridge over the Hudson, and here stages connect for Schroon Lake (fare $ 1) and Chester. By this road Pottcrsville is reached 6 M. from Riverside. A short distance N. is a vapid stream which falls into a basin and thence enters a snow-white natural arch 40 ft. high, where it flows for 247 ft. Stages leave Potters- ville for Minerva and Chester. Schroon Lake is 1 M. from Pottersville (steamers up the lake semi- daily ; 75c. ). It is 10 M. long by 2 M. wide, and is surrounded by wooded hills and mts. It was a part of the French seigniory of D'Alain- ville granted to De Lotbiniere in 1758, and was afterwards included in the great baronial estate of Gilliland, Some authorities claim that its name is derived from a Saranac Indian word meaning ''daughter of the moun- tain " ; but there is a border tradition that it was visited by a party of French officers before the Conquest of Canada, and was named in honor LONG LAKE. Route 16. 135 of Madame Scarron (Maintenon), the wife of Louis XIV. of France. The scenery about the foot of the lake is of little interest, and the steamer passes on to Mill Creek (E. shore), where the new Wells House (open only in summer) is situated. Glimpses are now gained of Dix Peak, the Boreas Spires, and other lofty summits of the Adirondacks. The shores grow more rugged and picturesque, and Mt, Pharaoh is seen on the r. front. The steamer stops on the W. shore at Schroon Lake Village (* Leland House, on a bluff overlooking the lake for 5 M. ; Ondawa Hotel ; Taylor House ; and several summer boarding-houses). Boats and guides for ex- cursions on the lake or into the forest may be obtained here. The most beautiful spot on the lake is Isold Bella, with its villa and gardens. Sev- ern Mt. is 2 M. N. and is often ascended by a wagon-road (3,000 ft.) for its extensive over-view. Mt. Pharaoh (4,000 ft. high) is across the lake, and may be ascended with guides. At its E. base is the trout-abounding Pharaoh Lake (7 M.^long), which is also visited from Hague, on Lake George. Paradox Lake is also much visited (see page 136). Beyond Riverside the railroad runs N. W. to its present terminus at l^oxi^i CrQok {Adirondack House; Rogers' Hotel). Strenuous efforts are being made to carry the line forward by the Adirondack Iron Works and Long and Tupper Lakes, to its objective point at Ogdensburg, Daily stages run to Minerva {Alpine House ; 8 M. ; fare, $ 1) in a forest-covered town between the Schroon and Boquet ranges. Long Lake is reached by mail-stages leaving Minerva every Wednesday at 7 A. M. (fare, $ 5), and running N. by Aiden Lair and through a chaos of mts. to Tahaious (Lower Iron Works), which is situated in a glen 4 M. N. of Boreas River, and has a small forest-tavern. The road from Minerva to Adirondack crosses the Crown Point and Carthage military road at this point, and passengers for Long Lake turn W. on the latter. 8 M. W. of Tahawus is the small village of Newcomb {Neiocomh Hotel ; Davis's Aunt Polly Inn), where guides and boats may be obtained. On order by mail (Aveekly) teams will be sent from the hotel to North Creek or Riverside for parties. Lakes Harris and Rich are quite near the village, and Lake Delia is 3 M. N. E. The Chain Lakes are visited from this point, while the Catlin Lake route leads to the foot of Long Lake in 13 M. (3 M. of carries). Soon after leaving Newcomb, the road follows Rich Lake, on tlie r., and traverses extensive forests to Long Lake Village, 20-22 M. from Tahawus, and 44 M. from North Creek. Blue Mountain L.ake is 27 M. W. of N. Creek, by a road which passes Indiiui Lake. It is thought that a stage-lino will serve this route in 1876 ; but in any ease, teams and drivers may be obtained at the N. Creek hotels. The road is rugged, and runs W. throuffh a desolate country, traversed by lofty ranges of hills. Wasliburne's Hotel is on Indian River, 15 M. out (fare, $ 1.40) ; and a trail leads thence 4 M. S. to Indian Lake, a sequestered and solitary sheet about 4 M. long. It is 25 M. by river and road from this point to Sageville. 3 M, beyond Indian River is Jnckson'n, on Cedar River, where guides ami supplies may be ob- tained. The road passes W. for 9 M. by Rock Lake to Blue Mt. Lake (see Route 23, ad finem), on which a new hotel is being built. 12 M. W, is Piaqueite Lake. 13G Route 17. PARADOX LAKE. 17. Schroon Lake to the Southern Adirondacks. Schroon Lake to Root's, 9 M. (Grown Toint to Root's, IS) ; Fenton's, 14 ; Boreas River, 20 ; Tahawus, 28 ; Newconib, 3G ; Long Lake, 51. The road follows the valley of Schroon River, with the long slopes of Spiiit Mt. and the Blue Ridge on the W. At a point 3-4 M.N, of Schroon Lake, the bright waters of Paradox Lake are seen, 2-3 M. W. This sheet of water is over 6 M. long, and affords considerable fishing,, BroWs Hotel is near its head, 9 M, from Schroon Lake ; 10 M. from Root's ; 13 M, from Ticonderoga ; and 16 M. from Crown Point, About 2 M. S. E. is Long Pond, and Pyramid Pond is 1 M. S. , while several other se- questered lakelets lie in the vicinity. The intersection of the Crown Point road is soon passed, and then a broad and barren plain is traversed until Root's Inn is reached, 9 M, from Schroon Lake, This house ac- commodates 40-50 guests at ^ 10 a week, and is a famous resort for sportsmen. The routes westward from Ticonderoga and Crown Point meet at this point. Ticonderoga is 23 M. S. E. of Root's, and the road passes Paradox Lake and Long Pond, The distance from Crown Point to Root's is 18 M,, the first half of which leads up the valley of Put's Creek, The Great Noo^thern Highway. Tlie tri-weekly mail-stage from Schroon Lake continues from Root's on the Great Northern Highway, with the lofty Dix Peak in advance. After passing through three deserted villages, it enters a wide and tangled forest, and ascends the water-shed heights. Thence it runs down into the Boquet River Valley, witli the imposing peaks of the Giant of the Valley on the W, When near New Russia tlie Split Rock Falls on the Boquet are seen by the roadside, and a little farther N, another fine cascade opens on the 1, 22 M. N. of Root's (32 M, from Schroon Lake) the beautiful village of Elizabethtown (see page 141) is reached. The stage arrives here at 2 p. M,, and waits for dinner, after which it goes N, to Keeseville, passing the Boquet Mts, and traversing (for 3 M.)the romantic gorge known as Poke-a-Moonshine, Schroon Lake to Keeseville, 52 M. ; time, 12 hrs. ; fare, $4,25. In going S. from Keeseville, Elizabethtown is passed at 11 a. m., and dinner is obtained (at 4 P. M, ) at Root's. Root's Inn is situated on the ancient State military road from Crown Point to Carthage, crossing the Wilderness in 133 M. This highway has fallen into disuse, but is still (barely) passable with the exception of a section of 16 M, between Stillwater and Beach's Lake. Parties some- times hire conveyances from Root's to Long Lake, 42 M, W. , accomplish- ing the trip in one long day. Fine sporting is found to the S. and S, W. of the inn, while the obscure trail which leads by Chapel Pond to the Keene Valley (18 - 20 M.) passes through noble scenery. It is 11 M, from ADIRONDACK. Route 17. 137 this point to the Hunter's Pass. Passing W. for 5 M., FentorCs Inn is reached, near the fishing-grounds on the ragged slopes of the Blue Ridge. A forest-road here diverges to the N., leading to Clear Pond (Lake-Side Inn) in 4 M., and to the inn on Mud Pond in 5 M. These sequestered waters are environed with mts., and a bridle-path conducts thence to the top of Mt. Marcy, 16 M. from Fenton's. A difficult trail leads from tlie inn at Mud Pond to the summit of Dix Peak, 4 M. N. E., from which the view includes the lakes of Schroon and Champlain, the cham of the Green Mts., and the chief Adirondack Mts. The wonderful gorge known as the Hunter's Pass lies at the base of this peak. It is 6 M. from Fenton's to Bullard's, and the road passes between Hayes Mt. on tlie S. and the graceful Boreas Spires on the N. (forests obstruct much of the view). Bullard's is near the Wolf and Sand Ponds, while Boreas Pond is 3 - 4 M. N., whence a trail leads to the Ausable Ponds and the Keene Valley. The road now crosses the Boreas Valley, and in 8 M. from Bullard's (19 M. from Root's) reaches Tahaivus (Lower Works). Tahawus to Long Lake, see page 135. Adirondack (Upper Iron Works) is 11 M. N. of Tahawus, by a pic- turesque road, wliich has Lake Sanford on the E. for 5 M. Moore's Inn is at this place, and the vicinity is filled with objects of interest. Tlie immense deposits of iron and the iron dam across the river were discovered and reported by an Indian hunter in 1826. Mining was soon commenceil, but the expense of freighting the ore to Lake Champlain was too heavy, and after some years the village, with its Churcli of Tubal Cain, was abandoned, and lias sines remained desolate. The unfortunate names of two of the chief Adirondack peaks, McMartin and Mclntyre, were given in honor of two of the speculators in these mines. Lake Sanford, 5 M. long, and girded with mts., is 1 M. S. of Adirondack, and Lake Hender- son, E, of Mt. Henderson, is ^ M. N. and 3 M. long. Grand mt. views are found here, and from the trout-abounding Preston Ponds (2 M. from Lake Henderson by path). 6 M. N. W. of these ponds is Mt. Seward, the Onnoivanlah of the Indians, a remote peak 4,348 ft. liigh, which is separated from Ragged Mt. (4,126 ft. high) by the Pass of Ouluska (" place of shadows "), where panthers abound. Far around the S. base of Seward is tlie silent district, called by the Indians Coughsarageh, " the dismal wilderness," while Ampersand Pond and Mt. lie on the N., and tlie confluence of the Cold and Raquette Rivers is 12 M. S. W. The * Adirondack Pass is 5 M. N. E. of Adirondack by a well-defined trail. It is a great gorge between Mts. Wallface and Mclntyre, and presents a scene of wild grandeur. The bottom of the pass is 2,901 ft. above the sea, and Wallface fronts on the W. side with a continuous precipice 1 M. long and 1,319 ft. high. 5 M, beyond the pass is the hamlet of N. Elba (see page 145). There are many other scenes of sublimity and beauty in 138 RoxUelS. MOUNT MARCY. this vicinity, but they are difficult of access, and the accommodations of the mt. inns are very limited. The trail to the summit of Mt. Marcy (see page 144) is 12 M. long, and very arduous. At 6 M. N. E. from Adirondack the path reaches Lake Colden, " perfectly embosomed amid the gigantic mts., and looking for all the world like an innocent child sleeping in a robber's embrace." From this sheet, 2,851 ft. above the tide, flows the foamy Opalescent River. Far up the Opalescent gorge to the E. is seen Gray Peak, on which, 4,293 ft. high, is Summit -Water, a bright mt. tarn from which the Hudson flows. 1 M. beyond Colden is Avalanche Lake, around whiclx stand Wallface, Mclntyre, McMartin, and Colden Mts. The long slopes of Marcy are soon encountered, and a steady climb over rocky ledges and steep acclivities conducts to the summit. After passing up by this route the mt. is often descended into the Keene Valley. A long trail leads from Adirondack to Keene, via the Ausable Ponds. 18. Plattsburgh to the Saranac Lakes. {Paul Siuith's or Martin's.) This has long been tlie favorite entrance to the Adironducks, and is well travelled throughout the summer. The train leaves the station (near Fouquet'.s Hotel) of the N. Y. and Canada R. R. (which follows the W . sliore of Lake Chani- jilain), and runs S. for 20 M. (fare, $ 1), iiassing 5 small stations, and stopping at Ausable River. This point is the present S. terminus of one of the branches of the railroad which is being construc-ted fnnn Whitehall to Montreal on the W. side of Lake Champlain. Excursion tickets (good for several weeks) from Boston to Ausable River and return, either by way of Fitchbuig and Burlington, or by Lowell and .^t. Albans, are sold for $ IG ((35 Washington yt. ; tickets also at 82 Washington St.) ; also from New York Lily (tickets and information at 175 Bioad- way, or the Hudson River R. R. and steamboat ottices). Through tickets may be obtainetl at the R. and iS. R. R. ofhces at Albany, Iroy, and Saratoga, and in Philadelphia at Sll Chestnut St. Stages are in waiting at Ausable River to convey travellers to Martin's, Paul Smith's, and Keeseville. Distance to Martin's, 30 M., fare $4.00; to Smith's, 38 M., fare, $ 4 ; to the Prospect House (Cpjier Saranac), 41 M. ; to Wilmington Notch, 18-20 M. ; to Keeseville and the Ausable Chasin, 10-12 M. N > regular stage runs to Cox's, but conveyances are sent thence to Blooiuingdale on receipt of telegrams announcing the approach of guests. It is thought that a line of stages will run to Martiu's by way of Wilmington Notch in 187(3. The stage-route follows the river for 3 M. to Ausable Forks, a pros- perous village (3 inns) at the confluence of the W. and S. Branches of the Ausable. This is the head-quarters of the iron-works of J. and J. Rogers, who own immense tracts of land, and employ over 2,000 men. They run 22 forges and 48 nail-machines, consuming 4,500,000 bushels of charcoal yearly, and making 80,000 kegs of nails, besides vast quantities of blooms. The plank road now ascends the hills, from which Whiteface Mt. and other peaks are seen in the S. W,, and passing through a dreary region of recent clearings and cold and sterile soil, traverses the iron- workers' village of Black Brook (6 M. from Ausable River station). At Frankliyi Falls, 20 M. from Ausable, the stages stop for dinner. Tliis PAUL SMITH'S. Route 18. 139 village was attacked (in May, 1852) hy a fire nminng in the forest, which utterly destroyed it. A new carriage-road has been made from the hotel to within f M. of the summit of Whiteface Mt., and guides and carriages for the ascent are furnished here. Tlie trip occupies a long day (fares, $ 1.50 each way). The stage now follows the Saranac River for 8 M. to Bloomingdale (* »S^. Arniand Hmcse, 100 guests), pleasantly situated on the W. of Whiteface Mt., and about 1,600 ft. above the sea. Trout are found in the Saranac River near this point, and in Moose and Grass Ponds, 2-3 M. to the S. 9 M. N. of Bloomingdale (by a road which crosses Cape Mt., and passes the hamlets of Vei-moutville and Merrillsville) is Lciv is Smith's Hu titer' t: Hoync, on the N. Saranac, and near tlie fishing-grounds of Loon, Mud, and Round Ponds. Roads lead thence to Plattsburgh (by Elsinore, 36 M.) and to Malone (tri-weekly mail-stage, by Duane, 31 M.)- Wardney'a lishernien's resort is on Rainbow Lake (3 M. long), 9 M. S. W. of the Hunters Home, 7 M. N. E. of Paul Smith's, and 6 M. N. W. of Bloomingdale. Martin's is reached by the stage about 6 r. m., after passing from Bloom- ingdale 8 M. up the valley of the Saranac. Baker's and Blood's inns are seen when tlie lake is approached, Baker's being 2 M. from its shore. * Martin's Saranac Lake House accommodates 140 guests (^2.50-3 a day), and has a fine lake-view. Guides, boats, and camp-equipage may be obtained here by those who wish to enter the remoter forest. Distance by road to Paul Smith's, 14 M.; to Cox's (Upper Saranac Lake House), 16 M.; to Lake Placid, 12 M. ; to Wilmington Notch, 16 M.; to Mt. Marcy, 24 M. Distance by water to Cox's, 20 M.; to Bartlett's, 12^ M. ; to Big Tupper Lake (by Sweeny's), 29 M. ; to Raquette Lake (by Stony Creek), 56-60 M. Good fishing is foimd on Ray Brook and other trib- utaries of the Saranac in this vicinity; also in Mackenzie's Pond, 4 M. N. E., under Sugar-Loaf Mt. Colly Pond is 2 M. N. W. of the hotel, and 2 -3 M. beyond is the deer-haunted Macauley Pond. Lonesome Pond is a sequestered loch 3-4 M. S. of the hotel, gained by boating do\NTi the lake and a " carry " of 1 M. But next to the frequent and easy excur- sions among the islands and bays of Saranac Lake, the favorite trip is to Lake Placid, 12 M. S. E. (see page 145). * •• Paul" Smith's (.S^^. Regis House) is reached by the stage in 10 M. from Bloomingdale. It accommodates 180 - 200 guests, and charges $ 2.50 a day. The best table in the Wilderness is set here, and the house is furnished with bath-rooms and barber-shop, billiard-tables and telegraph. An extensive corps of guides, with camp-equipage and supplies, may be found here. The hotel stands on an eminence in the pine-forest, and fronts on the Lower St. Regis Lake, a large pond from which flows the Middle Branch of the St. Regis River. Distance by road to Martin's, 14 M.; to Cox's, 17 M. ; to Malone, 36 M. (see page 127). Distance by water to Martin's, 30-32 M.; to Cox's, 12-14 M.; to Big Tupper Lake (by 140 RgiUcID. whiteface mt. Upper Saraiiac), 33-35 M.; to Raquette Lake, 64-66 M. The connected waters of Lower St. Regis, Spitfire, and St. Regis Lakes are thoroughly explored by light flotillas from the hotel, and the pretty ponds on the " route of the 9 carries " are frequently visited. Osgood Pond is just N. of Smith's, and several other lakelets are found on the W. Bay Pond is a picturesque sheet about 12 M. W.; and a forest-road leads to Wardney's Hotel, on Rainbow Lake, 7 M. N. E. A pleasant excursion is made by following the Malone road for 12 M. to Meachmn Lake. Parties froHi Smith's frequently ascend St. Regis Mt., a long and lofty ridge seen from the front of the house to the S. W. There is a rude path to the summit, and the excursion takes 6-8 hrs. The view over the St. Regis and Saranac Lakes is beautiful; while the Chateaugay Woods are seen in the N. E., and the S. E. is filled with the lofty Adirondack peaks. 19. Port Kent to the Wilmington Pass and Saranac Lakes. The stages from Port Kent (see page 118) to the Lakes have liitherto run by Franklin Falls, but many parties have preferred to charter a stage (at but little extra expense) to go via Wilmington Pass and Whiteface Mt. It is said that a regular line of stages will be put on this route m 1S76. Stages from Keeseville (5 M. S. W.) and the Ausable Chasm connect at Port Kent with every Lake Champlain steamer, and leave Keeseville for Martin's and Smith's daily at 6.30 A. M. The returning stages leave Martin's at 7 a. m., and connect with the train at Ausable River, and Avith the evening boat for the South at Port Kent. Ti-av- ellers from the East cross from Burlington to Port Kent on the steam fen'y-boat. The distance from Port Kent, by the Pass, to Martin's is 49 M. The road follows the Ausable River for 18 M. to Ausable Forks, passing the famous Chasm in 3 M., and Keeseville in 5 M. from Port Kent, The Jay and Poke-a-Moonshine Mts. are seen on the S., while Wliiteface towers conspicuously in advance. At the Forks, the road tunis to the S. W., following the valley of the S. Branch, with the Ausable Mts. on the W., and the Jay Mts. on the E. Fine views are afforded of the Jay Valley, with the lofty peaks of Keene in advance. From the little hamlet oi Jay, the lovely Keene Valley (10-13 M. distant; see page 142) is often visited. The road to the Pass turns W. at Jay, and crosses to Wilmington, 24 M. from Port Kent. Another road is sometimes taken, running W. from Ausable Forks to Black Brook village, and thence following the W. Branch (22 M. from Port Kent). At Wilmington is tlie Whiteface Mt. House (40-50 guests; SIO a week), situated amid noble scenery. * Whiteface Mt. is usually ascended from this point, guides and horses being furnished at the hotel. For over 2 M. carriages are used, and then the ascent is on horseback, over a rugged bridle-path 4 M. long. There is a comfortable hut near the summit, where quarters for the night may be obtained. Whiteface Mt. is 4,918 ft. high (survey of 1872), and derives its name from the fact that a landslide has laid bare the wlutish-gray ledges near its summit. The sharpness, bareness and isolation of this lofty peak render the * * view one of peculiar grandeur. THE WILMINGTON PASS. Route 20. 141 On the S. is a confused mass of imposing mts., conspicuous among which are the Giant of the Valley, Mclutyre, Wallface, and the jire-eminent Mt. Marcy. Close below, on the y. W., is the lovely Lake Placid, divided by its chain of islets ; and away beyond is the heavy mass of Mt. Seward. On the W., beyond Sugar-Loaf Mt., the silvery Saranac Lakes are seen, with scores of i)onds stud- ding the forest. Big Clear Pond is due W., below Wt. Regis Mt. It is claimed that Lake Ontario, 1:^5 M. y. of W., may be seen on a clear day, and that across the vast rolling wilderness to the N. may be discerned the flash of the tin roofs of Montreal, 80 M. away. The whole Saran«,c Valley is under view to the N., and also the dark Chateaugay Woods. On the E. is Lake Champlain, beyond which is the long line of the Green Mts., with Mt. Mansfield as their chief. The Whiteface Mt. House is distant from Keene Flats 13 M. ; from Martin's, 22 M. ; from the Indian Pass, 18 M.; and from N. Elba, 12 M. A path from the 1. of the Notch road, 2h M. from the hotel, leads to the Flume. Passing Little Falls, the roaring of * Big Falls is soon heard, where there is a plunge of over 100 ft. 6 M. from the hotel the * Wil- mington Pass is entered, and followed for nearly 2 M., with the sublime cliffs of Whiteface towering on the r., approached by an equally great precipice on the 1. There is but little more than room for the road and the river for over 1,000 ft., where the cliffs run up to a great height on either hand. A road to the r., beyond the portals of the gorge, leads to Lake Placid (in 2 M. ); and the stage-road intersects the Elizabethtown road at N. Elba, 6 M. from the Pass, and passes down to the Saranac Lake. 20. Westport to the Saranac Lakes. Distance, 43 M. ; fare, § 1 ; semi-weekly stages. From Westport (on Lake Champlain, 51 M. N. of Whitehall) semi-daily stages run to Elizabethtown (8 M.; fare %\). The latter village {* Mansion House, 200 guests, $ 10 - 12 a week ; Valley House ; and several boarding-houses) is the capital of Essex County, and is finely situated on the Boquet River. Its grand mt. prospects have made it a favorite summer resort. Lofty peaks and precipitous hills sui-round the village on all sides, and afford a fine view from the plateau on which stand the county buildings, the 3 churches, and the Mansion House. Cobble Hill, 1 M. S. W., has a singular rocky summit resembling a dome and fronted on the E. by a great precipice. It is frequently ascended for the sake of its view, which includes Raven Hill, Lake Champlain, and the Green Mts., on the E. ; the Boquet Mts. on the N. ; the lofty Adirondacks on the W., dominated by the Giant of the Valley; and the fruitful fields of Pleasant Valley on the S. The iso- lated peak of Raven Hill lies E. of Elizabethtown, and a vague path leads to its summit, 2,100 ft. above the sea. Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. are plainly seen on the E. ; the Boquet Mts. stretch along the N. ; and in the W., beyond the glen-embosomed village, the stately Adiron- dacks are seen for 30 M. The Giant of the Valley is sometimes ascended from this place, the route lying up the valley of Roaring Biook (to the S.). 142 Route 20. THE KEENE VALLEY. The excursion takes 2 days, and experienced guides should be procured. Hurricane Peak is a sharp white summit resembling Chocorua, which overlooks tlie tall mts. 5 M. to the W. The ascent and return require a long day, and form one of the most interesting excursions in Northern N. Y. Parties ride to the base in carriages, and from that point are guided up a forest-trail in 4 - 5 hrs. From the lofty bare summit all the princi- pal Adirondacks are seen close at hand in the W. and S., while across Pleasant Valley and beyond Raven liill are the broad waters of Champlg-in and the Green Mts. of Vermont. Fishing-parties frequently visit Black and Long Ponds, 6-8 M. S. E. of the village; also. New Pond, near the mts., and famed for its trout, Tlie favorite drive is down Pleasant Val- ley, by the side of the romantic Boc^uet River, to the cascades on that stream, — - or to Split-Rock Falls, a bright and picturesque scene 85 M. to the S. W. Elizabethtown is at the intersection of the State road through the mts. with the Great Northern Higlnvay from Schroon Lake to Keeseville, and is a centre of stage-routes. Stages leave for Wcstport semi-daily ; for Keene and Martin's (35 M. N. W. ; fare, §3), at G a. m., Mon. and Thurs., reaching Martin's at 7 P. M. ; for Keeseville (21 M. N. E. ; fare, §1.75), at 2 p. m., Tues., Thurs., and Sat. ; for Root's Inn at Schroon River (23 M. S. AV. ; fare, .? 1.75) and Scliroon Lake (32 M. S. W. ; fare, $2.50), at 11 a. m., Mon., Wed., and Fri.,— arriving at Schroon Lake by 7 P. M. After leaving Elizabethtown the stage soon enters the passes of the mts., and at 10 M. distance crosses the upper end of the lovely * Keene Valley. This is the most beautiful place in all the nit. district, and is already a favorite (but not fashional)le) sunmier resort. The i'air and fruitful inter- vales of the S. Branch of tlie Ausable run N. and S. for 8 M., while lofty and continuous mt. chains inwall them on the E. and W., and the great mass of Camel's Hump Mt. closes in on the S. The cultivated meadows, smooth and fertile and dotted with clumps of trees and shrubbery, contrast strongly with the frowning peaks on every side ; wliile the bright clean- ness of the scattered cottages, the graceful foot-bridges across the river, and the absence of fences, add new beauties to the scene. At Keene P. 0., at the N. end of the valley, is BdVs Hotel; Dibble's {Tahatvus House ; 60 guests) and WashhoncVs are near tlie centre ; and the board- ing-houses of Alma L. Beede and Smith Beede are in the portals of tlie passes at tlie S. end. The price at these houses is $ 7 - 10 a week. Or- lando Beede, Malvin Trumbull, Max and William Trideau, are the best of the guides in this district. The Clifford Falls are 3 M. N. W. of Keene (near the N. Elba road), and fall about 60 ft., pouring down through a remarkable gorge in the rock. HdVs Falls are on the Ausable River, 2 M. S. of Keene, and are visible from the highway. There is about 40 ft. of direct fall, and the rock -grouping in the vicinity is very picturesque. From Keene P. 0., at the N. end, to Keene Flats, in the centre of the valley, the distance is 4-5 M.; and from Keene Flats to Beede's, at the THE AUSABLE PONDS. Route 20. 143 S. end, it is nearly 3 M. * Beede's Falls are \ M. from Smith Beede's, where Roaring Brook plunges over a precipice over 500 ft. high, during the latter part of its descent gliding at an angle of about 70° through a deep channel which it has cut in the cliff. The best view is gained from a shelf of rock at the foot of the perpendicular fall. Chapel Pond is reached by an obscure path in 1^ M. from Smith Beede's, and is about | M. long. It is romantically situated amid an environment of rugged cliffs, and is noted for the great depth of its waters, which abound in white-fish. A small boat is kept upon this pond. 1,500 ft. totlie E., and 400 ft. higher than Chapel Pond, is another sequestered and solitary mt. tarn, and about h M. farther, and 200 ft. higher, is yet another lonely pond (1,500 X 600 ft.). An old and nearly obliterated trail (experienced guides should be taken) leads from Chapel Pond down into the Boquet River Valley, and thence to Root's Inn, 17 M. from the pond. Tlie im- mense heights of Camel's Hump, Giant of tlie Valley, and Bald Peak nearly surround Chapel Pond; and Round Pond (150 acres), the source of the Boquet River, is about 2 M. S. In the same region, and 4 M. S. of Beede's, is the glen known as tlie * Hunter's Pass. The * Ausable Ponds are reached from Beede's by a rugged road lead- ing up the defile in which flows the Ausable River. Near Alma L. Beede's are the long steep rapids called Russell Falls, where the river descends 150 ft. in a course of aboiit 1,500 ft., — its channel lying through a deep gorge in the granite rock. 2 M. above this point are the Beaver Meadow Falls, situated about \ M. from the road. 4 M. from Beede's the road leaves the forest and ascends a bluff which overlooks the Lower Ausable Pond, a narrow and gloomy sheet \\ M. long, with the nits, rising sheer from its shores. Gothic Mt. and Saddleback are on the W. , and lofty nameless peaks ascend on the E. * Rainboio Falls are ^ M. from the foot of the pond, and are visited by following the beach to the r. and crossing the driftwood at the outlet (or by rowing across the outlet), and passing along a path which turns sharply to the 1. around a hunters' shanty near by. An arduous ascent through the thickets and up the bed of the stream soon leads to tlie foot of the clifls over which tlie Rainbow Brook makes a direct leap of 125 ft. Boats are usually in readiness at the foot of the Lower Pond to transport travellers to the upper end, whence a carry 1 M. long leads to the Upper Ausable Pond. Tliis is larger than its sister sheet, being about 2 M. long, and attaining a considerable width near the centre, while the landscape is broader and less desolate at this point. Parties frequently encamp on these shores, and it is said that a hotel is to be built here, in conjunction with an improvement of the road to Keene. Trout and deer are sought in the vicinity. It is about 5 M. from the Upper Pond to the summit of Mt. Marcy ; and 5 M. to the S. W. (3 M. by boat up the inlet) is Boreas Pond, one of the head- waters of 144 Route 20. MOUNT MARCY. the Hudson. Tliis pond is nearly cut in two by a long cape running out from Moose Mt. on the N., while Saddle Rock and the towering Boreas Spires rise on the E. It covers nearly 1 square M,, and abounds in small trout. About 10 M. farther S. W. is the village of Tahavnts (Lower Iron Works), on the Crown Point and Long Lake road. 1 M. above the Upper Pond the inlet is crossed by a bridle-path which leads S. E. to the inn on Mud Pond (5-6 M.), and to Root's Inn at Schroon River. Mount Marcy, the sovereign peak of the Adirondacks, is 5,333 ft, above the sea (survey of 1872). It was called by the Saranac Indians, Tahawus, ''The Cloud- Piercer," or "Sky-Splitter," in allusion to the sharpness of its lofty peak, which often overtops the clouds. The * view from the summit (which is strewn with boulders) is wide and interesting, and inclndes the val- ley of Lake Champlain and the Green Mts. on the E. ; Whiteface, the Keene Mts., and the Ausable Valley on the N. and N. E. ; and distant views of the Saranac Lakes to the N. W. Surrounding this central sum- mit are seen the chief peaks of the Adirondacks. The usual mode of ascent is from Keene Flats, whence guides, provisions, and blankets are taken. Leaving the Flats at noon, the tirst night is si)ent in shanties beyond the Upper Ausable Pond (10-12 M.). On the next day the nit. is ascended by'a trail running 5 M. N. W.. and the shanties at the pond are I'egained by night- fall, Keene being reached by the noon of the next day. A nearer route (but more arduous and less ))icturesque) leads up John's Brook from Keene Flats, passing Big Falls and Buslniell's Falls, and traversing the Panther Gorge (in which the view is obscured by trees). Tliis trail passes between Slide and Gothic Mts., and ascends the E. slope of Mt. Marcy. From Root's Inn, at Schroon River, the dis- tance to the summit is 20-22 M. A wagon-road leads to the forest-tavern at Mud Pond (10 M.), whence a bridle-path has been made to the base of the mt. (9 M.). Another route which is often used is from Upper Adirondack, by a trail 12 M. long (see page 138). From Scott's (13 M. E. of Martin's, on the Westport road) a trail leads to the sunnnit by way of the Indian Pass, in 15 M. In addition to his camp equipage and sujiplies, the tourist should be careful to take thick clothing, as the mt. air is often very cold. A powerful tield-glass will also be found useful. BelVs Hotel, at Keene (,$ 7-9 a week) is reached at 10 o'clock (travellers returning from Martin's dine here). Beyond tliis point the Saranac stage enters the wild and romantic defile between Pitch Off and Long Pond Mts. About 4 M. from Keene the Echmmd Po7vds are reached, and so completely is the Pass filled by their waters that the State road is can-ied through on long galleries built out from the side of Pitch Off Mt. The ponds are narrow and deep, and about 4 M. long, abonnding also in small and delicious trout. They were once an unbroken lake, but an avalanche from the side of Pitch Off Mt. filled up the centi-e and formed two ponds. Tlie bare and precipitous peaks of Pitch Off, and the opposed ridges of Long Pond Mt. look down on the narrow and picturesque gorge, until the road emerges on a lofty grassy plateau nearly 2 M. square, called the South Meadows (or " Plains of Abraham "). An imposing LAKE PLACID. Route 20. 145 panoramic view of the peaks of Marcy, Mclntyre, Slide, and Wallface is now gained in the S. ; wliile on the N. the blanched summit of Whiteface soon starts into sight. The stage now reaches Scott's (13 M. from Mar- tin's; 30 M. from Westport), a roadside farm-house (summer boarders), which commands a noble view, and is a good centre for excursions. It is 5 M. to Lake Placid; 9 M. to the Wilmington Pass; 10 M. (S. W.) to the Adirondack Pass (see page 137) ; and 15 M. (S. ) to the summit of Mt, Marcy. From the hill-top over the W. Ausable, about 2 M. beyond Scott's, may be seen the liouse and farm of John Brown, and the bowlder by which he is buried. The farm is now owned by an association formed by Kate Field. John Brown, "of Ossawattoraie," was bom at Torrington, Conn., in the year 1800. He was a Puritan of the straitest sect, " of unflinching courage and intense earnestness." In 1855 he moved to Kansas, and took a prominent part in tlie struggles between the Free Soil and the Proslavery parties. In Aug., 1856, his command defeated at Ossawattomie a greatly superior loi-ce of Missourians. In May, 1859, witli a secret convention of Abolitionists in Canada, he formed the daring scheme of invading the State of Virginia and liberating its slaves. On tlie night of Oct. 10, 1859, he surprised and captured the national arsenal and armory at Harper's Ferry, Va., with about 20 men. But the slaves did not revolt; the . Va. militia beleaguered him closely, and the U. S. Marines captured the few sur- vivors of the fearless liberators. Brown's 2 sons were killed by his side, and he liimself was womided in several places. He was soon afterwards tried, convicted, and executed, "meeting death with serene composure." A short distance beyond Brown's, N. Elba {Lymi's Inn) is reached. From this point a fine mt. view is obtained, including (in the N. ) Whiteface and Sugar Loaf. * Lake Placid is 2 M. N. of tlie village, and is one of the loveliest resorts in the Adirondacks. Whiteface towers up over the N. E. shores, and is sometimes ascended by this route. On the W. are the dark ridges of Sugar Loaf, and lofty peaks overshadow the E. shores. Three islands in the midst of the waters divide it into the East and West Lakes, and many fish dwell in these pure and crystal depths. The lake is 5 M. long and 14-2 M. wide, and near its S. end are the boarding- houses of Nash and Brewster (60 - 80 guests ; $8-10 a week). Nash Lake is very near the houses, and contains about 1 scjuare M. ; and Conery Pond is f M. N. Paradox Pond is also near the S. shore, and has an in- explicable tidal flow to and from the lake. After leaving N. Elba the road traverses a wide and barren plateau for 9 M., when it descends into the Saranac Valley, and, passing Blood's tavern, speedily reaches Martin's Saranac Lake House (page 139), situated at the head of one of the fairest bays of the forest-bound lake. Dozens of the graceful Saranac and Long Lake canoes are seen floating before the hotel ; and the stalwart guides and hunters of Long Lake, St. Regis, and the Saranacs await the orders of tlie sportsman, with oars, rifle, and rods in readiness. Martin's and Paul Smith's hotels are often made the so- journing-place of ladies while their escorts pass on into the more remote forest. 7 J 146 Route 21. THE SARANAC LAKES. 21. The Saranac Lakes. Martin's to Cox's (and Paul Smith's). Boats and guides may be engaged at Martin's. The hotel guides charge $2.50 a daj' and tlieir board (the independent guides usually get 5^3), and if the traveller leaves his guide at a distance fi-oni tiie place where he was eu.aged, lie must pay him wages and exjienses for the time necessary for his (the guide s) return to that place. The distance from Martin's to Cox's is nearly 20 M., and the journey is easily made in a day. Saranac Lake is 6 M. long by 1 - 3 M. wide, and its surface is broken by 52 islands, the largest of which is Eagle Island, f M. long. The rocky headlands and the numerous tree-studded islets make a continuously changing panorama as the light swift boat passes up the lake, while Sara- nac Alt., on the W., and Ampersand Mt., on the S., loom boldly on the view. Occasional glimpses are obtained of Mt. Marcy and its brother peaks in the distant S. E. At the base of a cliff in Loon Bay, near the head of tlie lake, is seen the rude guide-board at Jacob's Well, a clear, cold spring of sweet water. Beyond this point a narrow and tortuous stream is en- tered and ascended for 3 M., passing a lively rapid (6-8 ft. fall), which is usually shot by boats descending. Round Lake is soon seen in the advance, with Ampersand Mt. on tlie S. E. " This little lake is a gem. It is round, as its name imports, some 4 M. in diame- ter, and surrounded by an amphitheatre of hills, beneath whose shadows it reposes in placid and quiet beauty. On the N. E. Whiteface rears its tall head far above tlie intervening ranges, while away ott" in the E. Mt. Marcy and Mt. Seward stand out dim and shadowy against the sky. Nearer are the Keene ranges, ragged and lofty, their bare and rocky summits glistening in the sunlight, while nearer still the hills arise, sometimes with steep and ragged acclivity, and sometimes gently sloping from the shore The rugged and sublime, with the placid and beautiful, are magniticently mingled in the surroundings of this little sheet of water." (Hammond.) Ampersand Mt. maybe ascended by a path (cut out by Dr. Ely in 1S73) which leads up the slope S. E. from Round Lake (a guide should be obtained from Bartlett's, '2 M. distant). The ascent to the hut on the summit may be made in 3-4 hrs. Tlie a.xis of the mt. extends for 3 M. E. and W., and the slope is steep. A beautiful * view is afforded from the E. peak, embracing Ampersand Pond (whose shape is thought to resemble the character &, whence comes its name), the thi'ee Saranac Lakes, Long and Tupper Lakes, the St. Regis and Clear Ponds, and the valley of the Saranac as far as Franklin Falls. On the E. and S. E. are the bold Adirondack peaks, Santanona, Mclntyre, Emmons, Seward, and many others. Ampersand Pond is a sequestered and beautiful loch S. of the mt. Here, according to tradition, the wizards of the Saranac Indians performed their weird incantations ; and here, in later years, adventurous si)ortsmen have found abun- dant fares of Hsh. It is reached by a difficult path of 5 M. from Round Lake, or by a long and arduous j(jurney from Cold Brook (near Lower Saranac Lake). Crossing Round Lake (dotted with islets, and very turbulent in Avindy weather), a narrow stream is entered, and BartletVs Sportsman's Home is soon reached (12 M. from Martin's). This hotel accommodates 40-50 guests, at $ 12 a week, and is a favorite place for dining. The river falls 60 ft. here, and the boats and baggage are hauled on carts around the rapids (J M. ; 50c. a load), and are launched on a deep and sequestered bay of the Upper Saranac. THE SARANAC LAKES. Route 22. 147 The * Upper Saranac Lake is now entered, and a cluster of rocky- islets is threaded. Tlii.s queenly lake is 8 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is often preferred to any of the other Adirondack waters. It has many pretty islands, while the distant mt. views are of great sublimity. After rounding the first point on the E., Gull Bay is left on the r., and several wooded islands are seen on the W. About half-way up the lake the Narrows are passed, where two bold points from the E. and W. shores approach each other. Just above, on the W., is Fish Creek Bay, where a creek affords entrance to Big Scpiare Pond and many other forest-sheets, extending to the Wolf Pond route. About 2 M. farther N. the lake is again narrowed, by Clear Point from the W., and Markham Point from the E, A broad and island-studded expanse is now crossed, and the boat is beached before Cox's {Vjjjger Saranac Lake House; 100 guests; $2-2.50 a day). This hotel is situated at the head of the lake, and commands a noble * view to the S. , embracing all the upper part of the lake, with line after line of stately mts. beyond, among which Marcy, Seward, and White- face are conspicuous. The best of fishing is foimd in the many ponds iu the immediate vicinity. There is a telegraph-station here; and a good stage-road runs out to Bloomingdale, 13 M. N. E., with side-roads to Martin's (16 M.) and Paul Smith's (17 M.). The usual route by water from Cox's to Smith's is preceded by a carry of 4 M., from the Upper Saranac to Big Clear Pond. The boats are hauled across for $1.50 a load, and passengers are carried for 50c. each. Tlie beautiful expanse of Big Clear Pond is now crossed for 2 M., with St. Regis Mt. on the N. W., and grand views of the more distant Adiron- dacks in the E. (the sharp pyramid of Whiteface is very conspicuous). The St. Germain (Sanjermau) carry is now crossed (1| M.; $1.50 a load). The 3 pretty connected lakes of St. Regis, Spitfire, and Lower St. Regis are traversed in about 4 M., and Smith's is reached. The Moute of the 9 carries passes through 8 ponds between the Upper Saranac and St. Regis Lake, with 9 carries aggregating 2^ M. of portage. Paul Smith's, see page 139. 22. The Saranac Lakes to the Tupper Lakes. Distance to Big Tupper Lake from Martin's, 29 M. ; from Paul Smith's, 35 M. ; from Cox's, 21 M. These routes are described in Route 21, as far as the foot of the Upper Saranac Lake. Here the Sweeny Carry is en- tered, on the W. shore (2 M. from Corey's), and the boats and baggage are hauled across for $1.50 a load (distance, 3 M.). From the hill over the beginning of the carry is obtained one of the most beautiful views in the lake-country, embracing the Upper Saranac, with its many islands and capes, and a great number of mts., of which Whiteface is chief. The boats are soon launched upon the Raquette Eiver, at a point 9 M. 148 Route 22. TUPPER LAKE. below Stony Creek; and this pretty stream (the Nlhanaicate, "Rapid River," of the Indians) is descended for 11 M, 4 M. from the carry a slight rapid is passed ; and 1 M. Leyond the boat goes through a narrow cutting in the isthmus of the Great Oxbow, thus saving over 1 M. of the river-passage. After passing a few forest-homes, the broad sheet of *Tupper Lake is seen in advance. This lake is 7 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is 1,504 ft. above the sea. It has about 40 islands, diversified with lofty trees and steep ledges, and is overlooked by the high ridges of Mt. Morris (on the E.) and Ai-ab Mt. (on the W.). County Island is the largest, and is nearly 1^ M. long; while on Bluff Island (to the N. E.) is the remarkable precipice called the Devil's Pulpit, running down sheer into the water at the S. end of the island. Moody's Hotel is near the outlet, and Cronk's (formerly Graves's) is near the head. " This is one of the most beautiful sheets of water that the sun ever shone upon, lying alone anicjug the nits., surrounded by old primeval forests, walled in by palisades of roeks, and studded with islands The hills rise with a gentle acclivity from the shore ; behind them, and afar off, rise rugged mt. -ranges ; and farther still, the lotty peaks of the Adirondaeks loom up in dim and shadowy outline on the sky. From every point, and in every direction, are views of placid and quiet beauty rarely equalled, — valleys stretching away among the highlands ; gaps in the hills through which the sunlight i)ours long after the shadows of the lorcst have elsewhere tlnown themselves across the lake ; islands, some bold and rocky, rising in barren desolation right up from the water ; some covered with a dense and thrifty growth of evergreen trees, with a soil matchless in fertility ; . . . . beautiful bays, stealing around bold promontories, and hiding away among the old woods." (Hammond.) Potsdam (see Route 25) is sometimes reached from Tupper Lake (in about GO M.) by descending the Raquette River. This route was very interesting before the back-water from the State dam at Potsdam had killed the trees on the banks. It is 6 M. from the lake to the Setting Pole Puipids, whence (passing Fish Hawk Rapids) the picturesque Pierce- field Falls are reached in 3 M. Shooting several rapids, at 12 M. from the lake Downey's Landing is reached, 3-4 M. W. of which is Massa- wepie Lake, with the 5 ponds at the head-waters of the Grass River. Tlie Blue Mt. and Moosehead Stillwaters are now traversed (passing 4 rapids), with Blue Mt. on the E., and Moosehead Mt. on the W. At one l»oint the Windfall is passed, where, on Sept. 20, 1845, a toniado cut a clean path through the forest, | M. wide and 50 M. in length. The fallen timber was afterwards burned. 10 - 12 M. below Downey's, Seavey's Hotel is reached, whence a poor road leads out to Potsdam in 35 M., passing Haws' Hotel (at the mouth of the Jordan River) in 7 M., and Petsue's Forest House (at Stark's Falls) in 14 M. The latter house is a rendezvous for guides and boats, and the ascent by water into the wilderness is often begun here. From Petsue's to Potsdam, by the Colton Road, it is 22 M., passing near the Rainbow Falls and the Walled Banks of the Raquette. Stages run (9 M.) between Potsdam and Colton (Empire Exchange), a, lara;e lumberinsr-villase. STONY CREEK POXDS. Route 23. U-9 Tlie Wolf Pond route from Tupper Lake to Cox's (on the Upper Saranac) is about 30 M. long, and has 10 carries (7 M.)- It passes by Hoel, Turtle, Long, Floodvvood, Itolliiis, and tlie Wolf and Raquette Ponds, and is very arduous and tiresome. A v.reat number of minor ponds dot the forest on eitli'er side of this route. Big Wolf Pond is over 3 M. long, and is reached by a pleasant trip from Tuppor Lake (10 M.), passing down the Raquette River 2 M. to the Raquette Pond, a handsome sheet of water nearly 3 M. long. From thence the sinuous Wolf Brook is ascended lor 5 M. to Little Wolf Pond, whence a ^ M. carry leads to Big Wolf Pond. Cranberry liake (15 M. long ; on the Upper Oswegatchie) is sometimes visited by a difficult route about 20 M long (8 M. of carries). Mud Lake (4 M. around), famous for deer, mosquitoes, and desolation, is 16 M. S. W. of Tupper Lake, by i)ortage (3 M.) from Cronk's, and then by Horseshoe Pond and the Bog River lakelets. Silver Lake and other ponds about Silver Lake Mt. are visited by the same route. Pleasant Lake, near Arab Mt., is C-7 M. from Tupper Lake, by Bridge Brook Pond. Scores of sequestered ponds, prolific in fish and haunted by deer, are situated in this district. The Bog River Falls are at the head of Tupper Lake (near a large spring of clear water rising through white sand). Little Tupper Lake is 9 M. S. (2J M. carries), by a route which crosses the pretty Round Pond. This lake is 1,715 ft. above the sea, and is 6 M. long. It has high and rocky shores and numerous islands, and gives fine views of the distant nits. Pliny Robbins keeps a forest tavern and supply- store on Sand Point, near the foot of the lake. Little Tupper is but seldom visited, on account of its remoteness, and attbrds very good sporting and lovely scenery. Smith's Lake, see Route 24. 23. The Saranac Lakes to Raquette Lake. From Martin's to Bartlett's, 12 M. ; to Jolinson's, 2(5 M. : to Kellogg 's (Long Lake), 43 .J- M. ; to Gary's (Raquette Lake), 57 M. From Paul Smith's to Cox's, 14 M. ; to Johnson's, 34 M. ; to Kellogg's, 51^ M. ; to Gary's, 65 M. Tlie journey to tlie lake requires 3 days, if but little baggage is taken. The Long Lalce guides (Plumbley, Hough, Gary, Sabbattis, and others), who may be found at Martin's, are familiar with the Raquette waters. Travellers who do not wish to encamp will find primitive accommodations at Bartlett's, Corey's, Johnson's, Davis's, Kellogg's, and Gary's. The ways from Martin's and Smith's to the foot of Upper Saranac Lake are described in Route 21. At (Jorei/s (a well-located hunters' resort) is the Indian Carry, over which the boats are hauled on carriages from the Saranac to the 8tony Creek Ponds. This vicinity was formerly brightened by the cornfields and wigwams of the Saranac Indians, who haect. IS ; Remsen, 21 ; E. Steuben, 25 ; Steuben, 26 ; Alder Creek, 2S ; Boonville, 35 ; Leyden, 38 ; Port Leyden, 42 ; Lyons Falls, 45 ; Glendale, 51 ; Martinsburg, 54 ; Lowville, 58 ; Castorland, 66 ; Deer River, 70 : Carthage, 74 (a bi-anch line diverges N. to Philadelphia, 87 ; Theresa Junction, 92 ; Morristown, 123; Cla^'ton, 108) ; Champion, 76 ; Great Bend, 81 ; Felt's Mills, 83 ; Black River, 85 : Watei-town. 91. TRENTON FALLS. Route U. 153 The train leaves the union station at Utica, and soon crosses the Mo- hawk River, whose valley it follows for several miles. The town of Marcy, with its villages of Marcy and Stittsville, is traversed, and soon after leaving Holland Patent a stop is made at the station of * Trenton Falls. * Moore's Trenton Falls Hotel (•'gS.SO a day ; !?21 a week) is 1 M. from the station and is reached by carriages (50c.). The large house closes Sept. 16, but a smaller hotel near by remains open all the year. Both these houses are painted dark brown, as if in respect to Willis's protest (written here) against "the chalky universes in rural places," with their " unescapable white-paint aggravations of sunshine," — "the mountains of illuminated clapboards," — "our Mont Blanc hotels with their Dover Cliff porticos." The Perkins House is an inexpensive hotel near the upper falls (reached from Prospect station, where its carriages await). John Sherman, grandson of Roger Sherman, graduated at Yale in 1793 and preached to a Congregational church at Mansfield, Conn., until 1805, when he embraced the new liberal doctrines. He then visited Trenton (then called Olden- barneveldt, in honor of the Grand Pensionary of the Dutch Republic, who was executed for liberalism in 1619) and became pastor of the first Unitarian church in the State of N. Y., —winning wide respect as an author, scholar, and orator. lie was wont to spend much time about the then almost inaccessible Trenton Falls, and in 1822 lie built a house for visitors (called the " Rural Resort ") which was enlarged in 1825. In 1827 he pul)lished a long descriptive essay about the Falls, and in 1828 he died and was buried under a monument just N. of the hotel. Mr. Moore came to the Falls in these early days for sight-seeing, and, being in- jured by falling on the rocks, was so carefully nursed by Miss Sherman that he afterward wedded her and in time became the landlord here. The hotel assumed its present dimensions in 1862, and is fronted by pleasant gardens. 25c. entrauce- fee to the Falls is charged to transient visitors. Trenton Falls are situated on W. Canada {Kanata, meaning "dark- brown water") Creek, an affluent of tlie Mohawk. The Indians gave them the euphonious name of Kuyahora {" slanting water "). There are 5 cascades in the series, with a total fall of 200 ft., and the stream Hows in the bottom of a romantic ravine whicli is bordered by walls of Trenton limestone, 70-200 ft. high. The attraction of the place is perhaps as much in the " deep down-itude " of this ravine and its crown of primeval forest as in its water-views. The water also is of a singular variety of brown hues, — from amber and topaz on the shallows to a dark umber in the deeper parts, — forming a rich effect when flecked with lines of foam and lighted by the sunsliine. The ravine is cut through the Trenton limestone formation of the transition period, which contains trilo bites, nautili, and other fossils of interest (geological sliop in the village) ; and the rocks abound with blue harebjiUs, in their season. During low water the ravine is easily traversed along its base, but high floods so fill the gorge that the path on the cliff must be followed. (Tourists who in- tend to remain several days should buy the pleasant guide-book, " Trenton Falls " ; edited by N. P. Willis. ) Entering the primeval forest near the hotel, the edge of the canon is soon reached, with a pleasant path turning along the cliff" to the 1. and passing to the High Falls (in high water this path must be taken). A 7* 154 Route 24. TRENTON FALLS. series of stairways here descends the cliff for 100 ft. to the broad stratiiin on the verge of the rapids. From this point the Chasm is seen, 750 ft. to the r. ; while up the gorge about 600 ft. is seen the Sherman Fall. Pass- ing along " this deep cave open at the top, .... with the sky appar- ently resting, like a ceiling, upon the leafy architraves," and viewing every variety of water-passion, the path leads under the overhanging cliffs to the rapids and the * Sherman FalL The water here plunges over a wall 33 ft. high, into which it has cut a deep perj^endicular chan- nel. Cliffs 150 ft. high tower over the ravine at this point, and a stairway leads up alongside and " in very close quarters with the cataract " to the parapet on the suniniit level. Going on for about 800 ft. farther the path conducts to the * High Falls, where the river first plunges over a long diagonal wall 40 ft. high, then sweeps along a level rock pavement and whitens away down a highly tilted inclined plane with 40 ft. more of descent. In high water, clouds of mist lit by rainbows arise here, enshrouding even the tall hemlocks and cedars on tln^. cliffs above. A dark, quiet basin lies below the Falls, and on the r. is the tall parapet of East Cliff (reached by road in 2^ M. from the hotel, and overlooking the creek and ravine). The best view of the series of Falls is from Carmichael's Point on the r. bank (1. side in ascending). Crossing now broad and level ledges, several stairways are ascended, and the visitor reaches the Rural Retreat, — a small house alongside of and overlooking the High Falls, where refresh- ments are offered. The veranda affords a pleasant resting-place. There is more breadth to the ravine above this j^oint, and about 600 ft. beyond is the Mill-Dam Fall, 14 ft. high and 100 ft. wide. Just above this is a broad stone platform 250 x 1,500 ft., enwalled by cedar-trees growing from the cliffs, and terminated by a precipice 60 ft. high. This great hall of Nature is called the Alhambra, and the passionate little cataract above it is the Cascade of the Alhambra. Beyond the cascade a broad amphi- theatre is entered, and the path is pursued by quaint stratified forms and musical waters to the romantic gorge through which the stream is cuttijig its way. The outer pile of these water-worn strata is called the Rocky Heart, since it resembles the traditional heart in its outlines. Near this is Jacob's Well, a deep pot-hole worn by the motion of pebbles. Some visitors pass on from this point to Boon's Bridge and the Fifth, or Pros- pect, Fall (3 M. from the hotel), but most would prefer to tui'n back here, and to walk to the hotel by the path on the cliff, which is gained by ascending from the Rural Retreat, Those who wish to ascend the chasm to Prospect Fall should start in the morning, dine at Prospect, and pass down the ravine in the afternoon. A pleasant road leads to this point in 3 M. by the lovely valley of Cincinnati Creek, in Parker's Hollow. Be- sides the drives to the fine view-point on East Cliff (2| M.), and to Pros- pect Falls, the trout-ponds in the vicinity are well worthy of a visit. BOONVILLE. Route 24. 155 "Most people talk of the snblimity of Trenton, but I haA'e haunted it by the week togetlier for its mere loveliness. The river, in the heart of that fearful chasm, is the most varied and beautiful assemblage of the thousand forms and shapes of running water that I know in tlie world. The soil and the deep- striking roots of the forest terminate far above you, looking like a black rim on tiie enclosing precipices. The bed of the river and its sky-sustaining walls are ot solid rock, and, with the treniejidous descent of the stream, —forming for miles one continuous succession of falls and rapids, — the channel is worn into curves and cavities which throw the clear water into forms of inconceivable brilliancy and variety. It is a sort of half twilight below, with here and there a long beam of sunshine reaching down to kiss the lip of an eddy, or form a rain- bow over a fall ; and the reverberating and changing echoes .... maintain a constant and most soothing music, varying at every step witli the varying phase of the current. Cascades of from 20 to 30 ft., over Avhicli the river flies with a single and hurrj'ing leap (not a drop missing from the glassy and bending sheet), occur frequently as you ascend ; and it is from these that the place takes ite name." (N. P. Willis.) 1 M. beyond Trenton Falls the train reaches Prospect (Union HaU), 1 ^ M. from the village, which is near the Fifth Trenton Fall. Convey- ances are furnished here for parties to the S. part of the John Brown Tract. The forest-road rans up the valley of W. Canada Creek, and is tolerable as far as Ohio. Transparent Lake (Joe's) is 32 M. from Pros- pect, by way of Paul's and Wilkinson's. It is 6 M. long, and is famed for its many trout. 3 and 5 M. distant are the N. and S, Lakes (feeders of the Black River Canal), which are also favorite resorts for fishermen. Trails lead N. from N. Lake to the Woodhull and Fulton waters. There is good brook-trout fi.shing on Twin Lake Stream (18-20 ]\L N. E. of Prospect). A road runs E., by the hamlet of Morehouseville, to Piseco Lake in 33 M., and to Lake Pleasant in 47 M. Stations, Remsen {Daw- son's Hotel), in a towai more than half whose population is Welsh; Alder Creek; and Boonville {Hulbert House, $ 2 a day, $6-10 a week; American Hntel)^ a thriving village of 1,500 inhabitants at the summit level of the Black River Canal, and possessed of a large country trade. This is perhaps the favorite entrance to the Tract. The R. R. fare from N. Y. to Boonville is % 6.40. The John Brown Tract embraced 210,000 acres of the North Woods, and was bought (in 1792) by John Brown, a wealthy gentleman of Providence, R. I., who purposed planting large colonies there. He divided it into 8 townshii)S, named Industry, Enterprise, Perseverance, Unanimity, Frugality, Sobriety, Econ- omy, and Regularity ; and the historian naively adds, " It has been said that all tliese social virtues are needed for the settlement of this region." In 1812 his son-in-law, Charles Herreshoff, tried to locate colonies here ; but after incurring great expense in making clearings, mills, etc., all was found to be in vain, and in 1819 Herreshoff committed suicide, and the settlement was broken up. The Tract is still unoccupied, save by hunters and lumbermen ; and while its scenery is far inferior to the Saranac and Ratiuette regions, it affords better sport, because it is so little visited. There is but scanty hotel accommodation, and sportsmen usually encamp during their sojourn here. The Hulbert House furnishes transportation, and many Brown's Tract guides live at Boonville. The first day's travel (by road) usually ends at the Forge Hotel (26 M. N. E.), near the First Fulton Lake. Dinner is obtained at Lawrence's, on Moose River, where is located the largest tannery in the State. Arnold's Tavern is 24 M. from Boonville. and 2 M . from the Forge Hotel. Nick's Lake, 3 M. by trail from the Forge, is famous for its trout ; and farther S. are the prolific spring- 156 Route 24. LOWVILLE. holes on the S. Branch of Moose River. A trail leads to the Woodhnll Lakes in 9 M. N. of Arnold's are Gibbs Lake and the trout-hannts at the Indian Spring- Hole. The 8 Fulton Lakes stretch to the N. E. Irora near the Forge Hotel, and fomi a water avenue to tlie Raijuette Lake, 2G M. distant. Their scenery is very attractive, and profitable tisliiug is found along the line. Ascending Moose River by boat for 2^ M., First Lake (1^ M. long) is entered. The Second and Tliird Lakes are each 1 M. long, and are connected by short inlets. Near the head of Third Lake is a trail wliich leads to the top of Bald Mt. in 1 M., and gives a fine view of Brown's Tract. Fourth Ixike is G M. long, and is the largest and most beautiful of the Fulton chain. The shores are elevated and irregular, and several graceful islands dot tie waters. Big Moose Lake is 4 M. long, and is 12 M. N. of Fourth Lake (4 M. of carries). The Fifth and Sixth Lakes are but small ponds, low-shorod and lily-covered, connected by a | M. cany. The Seventh Lake (a favorite cam])ing-ground) and its inlets give 4 M. of level water, followed by a 1 M. carry to Eiglith Lake (2 M. long). A rugged carry of Ih M. now leads t'> the Brown's Tract Ldct, which affords 4 M. of tortuous navigation to the Kaquette Lake (see page 151). Numerous jmnds and streams sparkle in the forests on either side of this route, and afford resorts for deer and trout. The IVoodhuU lAtke.'i are 20 M. from Boonville, and are sometimes visited by hunting parties by a fair road passing E. by White Lake. Port Leyden {Douglass House ; Union Hotel) has large tanneries, saw- mills, and iron-works. The township was early bought by the high sheriff of London, and was settled in 1794-96 by men of Connecticut. BeloAV the village are the rapids on Black River, sweeping through a deep narrow gorge which was formerly known as Hellgate. Sugar River lies to the S., and falls 100 ft. in a gorge whose walls are 100-150 ft. high. Below the falls is a pretty glen filled with evergreens and enwalled with cliffs, in Avhich are deep cavems, beyond which Sugar River disappears under the limestone strata and emerges about 800 ft. distant. Lyonsdale is 4 M. from Port Leyden, and a road leatls to Arnold's in 22 M. Lyons Falls ( Walton House) is at the High Falls on Black River, where the Avater plunges over a cliff 63 ft. high. 4 M. S. is a factory where spruce and poplar wood is ground into pulp, which is sent to Rome, and is made into paper there. The Brantingham Lake House is 8-10 M. N. E. of Lyons Falls, and is situated on the S. shore of a picturesque lake which affords good pickerel and bass fishing. There are 2 islands in the lake, and extensive forests line the shores. Stations, Glendale, Martinsbui-g (2 inns), and Lowville {HowcWs Hotel and Lanpher House, — $2 a day, ^6-10 a week, — 2 good hotels in close rivali'y ). Lowville, the capital of Lewis County, is a pretty village of 2,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, and a large country trade. It is situated in a hill-environed vale on Black River, and has some fine brick buildings. The Rural Cemetery, W. of the village, has over 1 M, of drives on a wooded plateau overlooking the valley. Thereisa valuable sidphur spring (hotel projected) 5M. N. of Lowville ; and 5-6 M. S. W., in Martinsburg, is the Chimney Point Gulf, where Martin's Creek has cut a long ravine 200 - 250 ft. deep through the Utica slate formations. The gorge is narrow and tortUous down to the vicinity of the Cliimney, where the creek falls over 100 ft. and enters a Avide bowl-shaped glen with precipitous N. and W, sides. "As [the traveller] comes upon its brink .suddenly, its wildness strikes him with awe. Opposite, and on the 1., are dark, massy, perpendicular rocks; CARTHAGE. Route U. 157 before him are lofty pines and liemlocks, and far, far below, as it were in the very bowels of the earth, through the openings in tlie foliage, indistinct glimp- ses are caught of the foaming rivulet, while the roar of the AvaterfaU and the grandeur of the surrounding landscape add an interest to the scene rarely ex- l^erienced." From Lowville is the usual entrance to the N. part of Brown's Tract, — the Number 4 and Stillwater districts. A tolerable road leads by Smith's Landing and Crystal Lake to the commodious Fenton House (18 M.) in township No. 4, and fronting on Beaver Lake, which is a renowned deer- haunt. The Francis, Crooked, Sand, and Sunday Lakes, and other trout- resorts, are in tliis vicinity ; and 3 - 4 M. N. W. is the beautiful scenery around Eagle Falls. It is 28 M. from No. 4 to Smith's Lake. Tlie rugged remains of the old military road from Crown Point to Carthage may be followed (by wagons) for 11 M. E. from No. 4 to Stillwater ( WardwelVs tavern). The forest is studded on every side with ponds which aiford good fishing. The Wolf Ponds and Red Horse Chain are on the N. ; and Big Moose Lake lies to the S. E. 12-14 M. N. E. is Albany Lake, which is over 5 M. long, and is a favorite sporting-ground on account of the (leer and trout which are found there. 2-3 M. N. of Albany is Smith's Lake, the finest in the Tract. It is about 3 M. in diameter, and abounds in speckled and salmon trout. The scenery is very attractive, — its most prominent feature being Smith's Rock, a far-viewing cliff on the W. shore, — while many islands dot the surface of the waters. Little Tupper Lake is but 6 M. E, of Smith's Lake (by Charley Pond). By a line of ponds and carries, Beach's Lake is reached (14 - 15 M. S. ), from which a carry of 4 M. leads to Raquette Lake (see page 151). Croglian {Nortz Hotel) is a French village 10 M. N. E. of Lo^wille (daily stage). 4 M. from this place is the old Prussian settlement of Naumburgh, with its 2 churches, and 4 M. N. E. is the liamlet of Belfort, whence a road runs 9 M. N. E. to the famous fishing-grounds on the S. branch of tlie Oswegatchie. 8 M. N. W. of Lowville is Copenhagen (Washington Hotel), within 1 M. of which are the High Falls, where Deer River descends IGO ft. in a deep gorge of the Trenton limestone. 2 M. below are the King's Falls (a descent of 40 ft.), so named because they were much admired by Joseph Bonaparte, ex-king of Spain, etc. Carthage {Levis House ; Adam.s) is reached by the railroad 16 M. N. of Lowville. It is an important manufacturing village on Black River, and is the W. terminus of the old State Road, which leads to Crown Point in 133 M. Much of this road lias been re-Avon by the forest, but the sec- tion from Carthage to Stillwater (35 M.) is kept in tolerable repair. The Oswegatchie fishing-grounds are reached byway of Harrisville (inn), which is 20 M. N. E., and 3 M. from Lake Bonaparte. Joseph Bonaparte, brother of the great Napoleon, Count de Survilliers, ex-king of Spain, Naples, and the Sicilies, was in France during a season of terrible battles and national apprehension. He met Le Ray de Chaumont, who then owned and was colonizing large sections of Northern New York, and said to him, " Here I live in the street, with several ambulances loaded with gold and jewels. Take these treasures, and give me part of your American forests." Le Ray objected on account of the Prince's ignorance of the character of the wild woodlands ; but 158 Route 24- SACKETT'S HARBOR. Bonaparte answered, " I will talje your word for that ; the gold may Ije stolen from me in an hour." He came to his wild domain in 1S29, and built a roomy house (with one section bidlet-proof) at the Natural Bridge, where the Indian River flows for several rods under the level strata of limestone, forming a cavern where large stalactites are fomid. " Here he forgot La Granja's glades. And sweet Sorrento's deathless shades, Escurial's dark and gloomy aome, In his f ar-ofi' secluded home." He was accustomed to entertain his many guests by fishing and hunting parties, and for them he built a small house on *Iiake Bonaparte, which covers 1,200 acres. The lake "has several wild rocky islands withm it, and is environed by bold rocky shores, alternating with wooded swamps and intervales, presenting altogether one oftlie most i)icturesque .•ind quiet woodland scenes which the great forest affords. " At Harrisville the Polish Prince iSulkowski spent several years of exile, but in 1856 was restored to his hereditary honors and returned home. A* road leads N. E. from Harrisville by Pitcairn to the wide forest-town of Fine, near Cranberry Lake. A railroad is jirojected from Carthage to Harrisville. There are many Swiss colonists in this vicinity. The railroad runs W. 28 M. from Cartilage down the Black River Valley (crossing Route 25 at Watertoum) to Sackett's Harbor (the Earl House and Poi-ter House are summer hotels ; Grafton House). This is one of the finest harbors on the lakes, and is spoken of as a terminus for the Hoosac Tunnel route to Boston. The Madison Barracks are here, and are generally kept garrisoned. Sackett's Harbor was the chief naval station on the lakes during the War of 1812, and millions of dollars were spent here for public works. In July, 1812, it was attacked by a British fleet of 5 frigates (82 cannon), but after a long bombard- ment the assailants were driven off with heavy loss. One shot from the shore batteries kiUed and wounded 32 men on the Royal (leorge. In Sept., 1812, Com. Chauncey sailed from the harbor with 10 vessels (64 guns), but was soon forced back by Com. Sir James Yeo, with a superior force. For 2 years war- vessels were built here, while the British were fully as active at Kingston. The fleet which had the most guns would sweep Lake Ontario until the opposing fleet received a new vessel, when it woidd flee to port and conmicnce building. In May, 1813, Sir James Yeo attacked Sackett's Harbor with 1,000 soldiers, 6 frigates, and 96 cannon. A panic ensued among the militia, and in the flight § 500,000 worth of supplies and a frigate were burnt. 2 war- vessels ran up Black River and were saved. The Albany volunteers and the regulars retired slowly before the enemy until they reached the barracks, where a firm stand was made. Meanwhile Fort Tompkins was firing steadily, and small parties of the routed militia were gatlier- ing on the British flanks. Sir George Prevost commanded a retreat, and em- barked his troops after a loss of 261 men (American loss, 131). In 1814 the place w\ns secured by Forts Tompkins, Pike, Virginia, and Kentucky (with 84 guns), and by fortified barracks for 4,500 men. The garrison was conijiosed of 6,000 N. Y. militia. Gens. Pike and Covington and several other officers who fell in battle were buried here (in unmarked graves). In Aug., 1814, Com. Chauncey sailed hence with the Superior, 62, Molunck, 42, Pike, 28, Madison, Jefferson, and Jones, each 22, and the Syl2)h and Oneida, each 16 guns. With this powerful fleet he thought that the question of naval supremacy was settled, and blockaded Sir James Yeo at Kingston. A month later, Yeo finished the St. Lawrence, an im- mense 112-gun.ship, with a crew of 1,000 men, and Cliauncey fled to Sackett's Har- bor, where he was immediately blockaded, lie commenced the building of 2 mammoth frigates, the Neiu Orleans and the Chippewa, of 120 guns each, and would soon have regained the mastery of the lake, but the war closed before his levi- athans were launched, and the costly fleets were rendered useless, and were sold for commercial purposes. The Chippewa wns taken to pieces, but the iVe?t' Orleans still remains on the stocks, and has been housed over. On Sandy Creek, S. of the Harbor, a British boat expedition was attacked by 150 regulars under 2 Georgian officers, and lost 68 killed and wounded, 170 prisoners, and 7 guns. WATERTOWN. Route 25. 159 After leaving Carthage the main line passes 13 M. N. through the for- est to Philadelphia, where it crosses Route 25. 7 M. beyond this point the train reaches Theresa (Getman House), at the High Falls of the In- dian River. From Theresa Junction the line has been prolonged to JMor- ristown, on the St. Lawrence River, opposite Brockvilie. The train now crosses the towns of Orleans and Chiyton, and stops at Clayton (Hubbard House), on the St. Lawrence, whence steamboats run to Alexandria Bay (see Route 28) on the arrival of trains. 25. Rome to Ogdensburg and Alexandria Bay. By the Rome, Watertown and Ogdeiiaburg R. R. from the city of Rome (see Route "26). Three express-trains run daily (in summer). Tliis is the usual route to Alexandria Bay, 25 hrs. from New York (fare from N. Y. to Cape Vint-ent, $8.20), and drawing-room cars run as far as Cape Vincent, wiiere the river-steam- el's are taken (3 hrs. to Alexandria Ray). Tickets and information may be obtained at 413 Broadway, N. Y.. and the Grand Central Depot. Fares from Rome to Richland, §1.30; Oswego, §2; AVatertown, §2.20; Cape Vincent, $2.90; Rich- ville, .i?3.45; Ogdensburg, §4.30 ; Potsdam, $4.25. Stations: Rome; Taberg, 11 M. ; McConnelsville, 13; Camden, 18; W. Cam- den, 23 ; Williamstown, 28 ; Kasoag, 31 ; Albion, 37 ; Richland, 42 (branch line to Pulaski, 46 ; Sand Hill, 50 ; Mexico, 55 ; New Haven, 60 ; Scriba, 64 ; Oswego, 71) ; Sandy Creek, 47 ; Mannsville, 52 ; Pierrepont Manor, 54 ; Adams, 59 ; Adams Centre, 62 ; Watertown, 72 (branch to Brownville, 75 ; Limerick, 79 ; Chaumont, 85 ; 3 M. Bay, 88 : Rosiere, 92 ; Cape Vincent, 96) ; Sanford's Corners, 78 ; Evans' Mills, 83 ; Philadelphia, 90 ; Antwerp, 96 ; Keene's, 101 ; Gouverneur, 108 ; Rich- ville, 116 ; De Kalb June, 123 (branch to Canton, 131 ; Potsdam, 142; Potsdanx Junction, 148); Rensselaer Falls, 130 ; Heuvelton, 135 ; Ogdensburg, 142. The line runs N. W. from Rome across the upper part of Oneida Co. Stations : Taberg, near the ravines on Fall Creek ; McConnelsville; Cam- den (Whitney House), a manufacturing village; W. Camden, Williams- town, Kasoag, Albion, and Richland (Mellen's Hotel), which is near the Richland Trout Ponds, where boats and tackle are furnished to fishermen upon payment of a roimd fee. A branch road diverges from Richland to Oswego, 29 M. S. W. Stations : Pulaski (Grafs Hotel), a semi-capital of Oswego Co., with 2,000 inhabitnnts ; Mexico (Empire House), a flourishing village which is called " the Mother of Coun- ties," because at its settlement (in 1792) it included a greater part of 4 counties ; New /fa ve7i (village 1 M. 8. W. of station) ; and Scriba. This district is noted for its large crops of apples, and borders on the lake. Beyond Scriba the line passes r)ut on the shore of Lake Ontario, sweeps around close under the ramparts of Fort Ontario, and stops at Oswego (see Route 32). 5 M. beyond Richland tlie main line meets the Syracuse Div., R. W. & 0. R. R., which runs S. to Syracuse in 44 M. The wealthy farming town of EUisburgh is now traversed. Adams (Cooper House) is a village of 1,800 inhabitants, with 4 churches and the Hungerford Collegiate Institute. From Adams Centre (Merchant.s' Hotel) daily stages run to Belleville (5 M. S. W.) and Henderson ^ M. W., near Lake Ontario). Watertown (* Woodruff House ; American; Kirhy) is a prosperous city of 9,336 inhabitants, with large factories on the rapids of Black River. The busi- ness part of the city is on the spacious square near the station, which is 160 Route 25. CAPE VINCENT. surrounded by substantial brick blocks. In the centre are two parked lawns and an elegant bronze fountain. A large retail trade is done by the shops in the two glass-roofed arcades near the square. Washington St. is a broad rural avenue which is lined with villas. There are 10 churches, 10 banks, and 1 daily and 3 weekly papers. The Brookside Cemetery is Ih M. S. of Watertown, and the new Calvary Cemetery, 2 M. distant, is favorably situated in a broad bend of the Black River. There are extensive caverns in the limestone formation imder the city. Water- town was founded in 1800, and is tlie capital of Jefferson County. The Sackett's Harbor Branch of the Utica & Black River R. R. crosses the present route at Watertown. A branch of the R., W., & 0. R. R. runs thence N. W. 24 M. to Cape Vincent. After passing the stations Brownville and Limerick, tlie branch line approaches Chaumont Bay, on which are the stations of Chaumont ( Union Hotel) and 3 M. Point. Tlii.s capacious bay affords large and lucrative seine-fisheries, lake-herring and white-fish being very abundant, Tlie bay is nearly landlocked, and on its shores are several ship-yards. It was named in honor of Le Ray de Chaumont, a French gentleman who owned extensive tracts in N. N. Y. Tlie limestone cpiarries in this town are of great value, and have furnished ma- terial for many of the public works along the lake. Cape Vincent {St. Lawrence Hotel) is an active commercial port, with grain-elevators, wharves, and a lighthouse. It was settled in 1809 in a favorable location near the efflux of tlie St. Lawrence from Lake Ontario. The Vennont Central propellers stop here, and a line of ferry-boats runs to Kingston, Canada. A fine steamer leaves Cape Vincent (in summer) on the arrival of the trains at 9.35 a. m. and 4.55 p. m., and, after touching at Clayton, reaches Alexandria Bay at noon and at 7,45 P. M, The main line nms N. E. from Watertown across the wilderness iovm of Le Ray (2 stations), crosses Route 24 at Philadelphia, and passes Antwerp (Proctor House), a village on Indian River, near several large iron-mines. Rossie (with valuable iron and lead mines) is next crossed, and the train stops at Gouverneur {Qer^iral Hotel; Van Buren House), on the Oswegatchie River. This tract belonged to Gouverneur Morris, and was settled in 1805. The Wesleyan Seminary is located here, and the Riverside Cemetery, opposite the village, has pleasant grounds. The North Woods are sometimes entered from this station, by a road which leads by Fullersville and Edwards to Fine, 25 M. E. Cranberry Lake is 11 M. from Fine, by boating up the Oswegatchie River, Cranberry Lake to the Tupper Lakes, see page 149. Passing Richfield station, the train stops at De Kalh Junction. A railroad 26 M. long was built from E, De Kalb to the Clifton Iron Mines, toward Cranberry Lake. It is now disused. Daily stages run THE N. Y. CENTRAL R. R. Rmite 26. 161 from the junctiou to Clarksboro" (Clifton Hotel) 24 M. S. E.; 12 M. be- yond which (poor road) is Cranberry Lake, a sheet 15 M. long, whose low shores have been flooded until the trees have died. Boats and guides may be obtained at the dam, 10 M. from Clarksboro', and the surrounding forests abound in haunts of trout and deer (but are deficient in scenery). The main line passes on from De Kalb to Canton {Bridges' Hotel), the capital of St. Lawrence County, with factories on the water-power afforded by Grass River. Canton is the seat of St. Laivrence University, a modern institution of the Universalist Church, with 70-80 students and a hand- some library building. Station, Potsdam {American House), a large factory village on the Raquette River, where the State Normal School is located. Potsdam to the Wilderness, see page 148. At Potsdam Junc- tion the line intersects the Lake Champlain R. R. (Route 14). A branch R. R. runs N. W. from De Kalb Junction, near the Oswegatchie River, to Ogdensburg (see Route 28). 26. New York to Utica, Rochester, and Niagara Falls. By the N. Y. Central and Hudson River R. R., wliich is a consolidation in one tnink-line of several smaller railroads. " From the time it leaves New York until it reaches Buffalo or Suspension Bridge, it traverses the gai-den of N. Y. State, rich in agricultural and industrial resources, and teeming with a large pop- ulation." The road and its equipment cost §63,300,000; and immense amounts are now being expended in laying a quadruple track throughout the whole line, to aecouunodate the Western freight. Wagner's drawing-room and sleeping-cars are attached to the fast trains, and the road is laid with steel rails. New York to I'oughkeepsie, 4 hrs.; to Albanv, 5.^ hrs. ; to Utica, 8^ hrs.; to Rochester, 14 hrs.; to Buffalo, 17 hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 17 hrs. Fares. — New York to Poughkeepsie, $1.46; to Albany, $3.10; Fort Plain, S4.-^S; Utica, §5; Syracuse, §6.06; Auburn, $6.58; Rochester, $7.68 ; Batavia, SS.30; Buffalo, $9.25; Niagara Falls, $9.25. Also to Burlington, Vt., $8.65; Montpelier, $10.30; Montreal, $12.05; Lake Luzerne, N. Y.. $5.15; Coopers- t )wn, $6.15 ; Boonville, $6.40 ; Cape Vincent, $8.80 ; Osweso, $7.25 ; Clifton Springs, $7.34. To Toronto, Ont., $12.25; Cleveland, $14.25"; Detroit, $16.25 ; Cincinnati, $20; Chicago, $22; Milwaukee, $25; St. Louis, $27; St. Paul, $37.25; Memphis, $38.25; Vicksburg, $47; Mobile, $45; New Orleans, $50; Umaha. $39.50 ; Salt Lake City, $119.50 ; San Francisco, $139.50 ; Portland, Or., $175.50. stations. — N. Y. to Albany, see page 62. From N. Y. to Albanv, 142 M. ; Schenectady, 159; Hoffman, 168; Amsterdam, 175; Tribes' Hill, 180^; Fonda, 185^ ; Yost's, 191 ; Sprakers, 194 ; Palatine Bridge, 197 ; Fort Plain, 200 ; St. Johnsville, 206 ; Little Falls, 215^ ; Herkimer, 223 ; Ilion, 225 , Frankfort, 227 ; Utica, 237 ; Whitesboro', 240J ; Oriskany, 213V ; Rome, 251 ; Vei-ona, 259^ ; Oneida. 264 ; Canastota, 269 ; Canaseraga, 273 ; Chittenango, 275 ; Kirkville, 279*; Manlius, 282 ; Syracuse, 239^ ; {Old Road) Camillus, 298 ; Mareellus, 300 ; Skaneateles, 307 ; Sennett, 310 ; Auburn, 315 ; Cayuga, 326 ; Seneca Falls. 331 ; Waterloo, 334 ; Ge- neva, 341 ; Phelps, 349 ; Clifton Springs, 353 ; Shortsville, 357J ; Canandaigua, 363^ ; Farmington, 3G',U ; Fisher's, 377 ; Pittsford, 384 ; Rochester, 392 ; Mem- phis, 302 ; Jordan, 307" ; Weed.sport, 311 ; Port BjTon, 314^ ; Savannah, 322 ; Clyde, 328 ; Lyons, 335 ; Newark, 340 ; Palmyra, 34SA ; Maeedon. 353 ; Fairport, 360* ; Rochester, 370^ ; Chili, 381 ; Churchville, 385 '. Bergen, 388 ; Byron, 395 ; Batavia, 402^ ; Crofts, 408^ ; Corfu, 414 ; Crittenden, 419 ; Wende, 422 ; Grimes- ville, 42S ; Forks, 431 ; Buffalo, 440 ; Niagara, 449 ; Cleveland, 622 ; Cincinnati, 880 ; Chicago, 979 ; St. Louis, 1,265 ; Salt Lake City, 2,537 ; San Francisco, 3,378. New York to Albany, see Route 8. 1G2 Rmte26. SCHENECTADY. Passing out through the streets of Albany, the train soon reaches TT^. Albany, with its extensive cattle-yards, and with car and machine shops employing nearly 1,300 men. Tlie line iu)\v approaches the Mohawk, and in 17 M. from Albany reaches Schenectady [Given' s Hotel; Car- ley's), a city of 11,026 inhabitants, situated on a broad intervale near the river. It has 14 churches, 2 daily papers, and 2 banks; iron-works which have made 90 iron bridges for the Central R. R., and othei-s which make 75 locomotives yearly. At the head of a hillside square on the E. is an arsenal of the State, near the pretentious Methodist Church. In the W. part of the city is the quaint old St. George's Church and an elegant Gothic church, while the old college buildings are near the river. On the E. is the Vale Cemetery, with a monument to 57 Revolutionary soldiers amid large pine groves. Union University is situated on the heights over the city, and has 2 large buildings with long wings, between which is the costly and ornate * Library building, of stone, with Scotch granite columns, and forming a polygonal figure. The collections of apparatus and specimens are large, and include the Wheatley Collection of minerals and shells ; and the library is of great value. A school of civil engineering and analytical chemistry is attached to the Univer- sity. Schenectady was assaulted at midnight, Feb. 8, 1601, by 250 Frenchmen and Indians. G8 pei-sons were mas.sacred, and 27 were led into t-aptivity ; while the town and church were given to the flames. Union College was founded in 1795 Ity a union of several religious sects, and is richly endowed. Eliphalet Nott was its president from 1804 until 1866. Leaving Schenectady, the University is seen on the r., and the line crosses the Erie Canal and Mohawk River on a long iron bridge, and trav- erses those alluvial plains of Glenville wliich were called Maalioyck and Woestiiia by the ancient Dutch colonists. On the 1. is the fruitful Bouw- land, and Hoffman's Ferry is approaclied by the Touareune Hills. The ferry was established by Hermanns Vedder in 1790. Glenville was settled by the Dutch in 1665, and was on the manor of Sander Leendertse Glen. Passing the villages of Van Vechten and Cranesville, the train reaches Amsterdam {Arnold House), a prosperous factory village of 5,426 inhab- itants, situated in a fertile farming country at the outlet of Chuctenunda {" twin-sisters ") Creek. On the broad Mohawk intervales are plantations of broom-corn, which flourishes in the deep alluvial loam; and the hill- country is devoted to pasturage, dairy products being an important source of revenue. Daily stages run from Amsterdam to Northville (24 M. N.), connecting with stages for Lake Pleasant (Wednesday and Saturday). Tribes' Hill is a rural hamlet 6 M. W. of Amsterdam, and derives its name from a mound where the Indians were accustomed to hold their councils. This district was held by the valiant Mohawks, who were conciliated by the settlers, and being hostile to the French ou account of Champlain's raid in 1609, they TRIBES' HILL. Route 26. 1G3 formed valuable auxiliaries in the early parai)aigus to the N. Between 1843 and 1648 the Jesuits labored ainon^ them, and fearlessly f.)ll.)\ved to niaityrdoui their consecrated leader. Fathor Jo^ues, tiie disc-overerut' Lake tit. Saorement. In 1671 they led their proselytes to Canada, where tiie Moliawk dialect is still jiresewed at Caughnawaga. Tlie heathen who remained streu-jthened the tribal " castles," and shielded the Anglo-Dutch colonies from French attacks. Several raids from Montreal swept over the valley, and were repaid by a movement of the wliole Mohawk nation upon that city, in which it was laid in ruins, and hundreds of Frenchmen were massacred. In 1G92 the French harried the valley with strong forces, and destroyed the Indian castles, cirryiug back 390 captive warriors. In 1711 Fort Hunter was built near Tribes* Hill, and Queen Anne's Chapel was soon afterward erected, and was furnished with a communion service by Queen Anno. It stood near the castle of Osscuncnon, and was fortified with artillery in the Ilevo- liitifm. About 1710 large numbers of immi:?rants from the German Palatinate settled here, and mingled with the Holland men. In 1735 Admiral Sir Peter Warren acquired abroad estate in this region, and sent his young nephew, Wm. Johnson, as his agent. In 1740 lie built a large and well-fortified stone mansion lietween Tribes' Hill and Amsterdam, and lived in great state and elegance. ' He 1 I rued the Moiiawk language, and frecpiently adopted their dress, and soon ac- (liiired an almost boundless influence over them. He commanded thearmy which dt feated Dieskau at tlie Battle of Lake George, and was made a baronet for that ailiievement. In 1758 he led his red warriors in Abercrombie's army, and from Mt. Defiance watched the disastrous attack on Ticonderoga. He died suddenly in 1774, and it is now supi)osed that he committed suicide to avoid making the awful decision to whom his allegiance was due, — his king or his country. His sons-in-law and heirs joined the royalists, and left their mansions (near Amster- dam ; Guy Park is still standing), leading bands of Mohawks and Tories to the British army. These lords of the valley made frequent forays through the settle- ments, witli their Indians and tlie regiment called "Johnson's Greens," but their lieutenants were badly defeated at the siege of Rome (Fort Stanwix). The Mo- liawk region was utterly devastated by these tierce raids, and its inhabitants were scattered. In 1780 Sir John Jolinsouled 500 men against Tribes' Hill, and com- mitted great devastations ; but in a second raid (in 1781) the militia gathered with promptitude and de eated the Tory forces. The broad feudal domains of the Johnsons were confiscated by Congress, and the valley was occupied by men of New England. Station, Fonda [Fonda Hotel), the capital of Montgomery Count)', pleasantly situated on the Mohawk, and occupying the site of the ancient Indian village where the Jesuits were massacred. It was settled by the Dutch, and named in honor of Douw Fonda, and was twice destroyed by Sir John Johnson's marauders. A railway runs N. from Fonda 26 M. to North ville, passing through Johnstown, a populous village in the Cayadutta Valley, and the capital of Fulton County. I M. N. W. of tlie village is Johnson Hall, the mansion erected by Sir Will. Johnson in 1761. and where he ruled in baronial state until his self-inflicted death in 1774. His son, Sir John, armed his Scotch tenantry against the colonies, but was taken prisoner and paroled. The head-quarters of royalism in N. Y. was at Johnson Hall until a national force advanced against it (1776), when the loyal knight and his retainers fled through the wilderness to Canada. The last of his daring attacks Avas made in order to recover the family i)late, which had been buried at the Hall. In 1781 a sharp action was fought here between 600 Tories and the American militia. The British government repaid Johnson for his seques- trated estates by a grant of $300,000 and a general's commission. Sir William , lived 40 years in these forests, and liad over 100 children. His grave is near the Johnstown Episcopal Church. Gloversville is 4 M. N. of Johnstown, and has 6,200 inhabitants, with 7 churches and 2 weekly papers. It is famous for its glove manufactories, and it is claimed that more heavy gloves and niitteus are made liereabouts than in the remainder of the U. S. Tlie buckskins were formerly brought from the N. Wilderness, but are now imported from remote States. Lake Pleasant is 46 M. N. of Gioversville (railroad to Northville, whence 1G4 Route 26. SAGEVILLE. st.igcs run to the Lake. 20 M., on Wednesdays and Saturdays). The road passes (1.) the Mayfield Mts. and ascends the Sa<'andaga Valley, with tall nits, on either side, the country being thinly populated and rugged. At Pickleville the valley is left, and the road crosses the ridges to ^agfri/^c (Lake Pleasant Hotel, onhei chts overlooking the lake and village), the capital of Hamilton County, a rocky and sterde region, without railroad or newspaper, and witli but 2,9G0 inhabitants ou 1,745 square M. of area. Sageville is pleasantly located on an eminence between Lake Pleasant and Round Lake, which here closely apjiroach each other. Lake Pleasant is 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, and is bordered by high hills. Guides from the hotels conduct to the l»est fishing and hunting grounds. The Sturgis House is a large summer hotel, 4 M. N. E. of Kageville. and near the outlet of tlie lake. Hound Lake is .just N. of Sageville, and is LJ M. wide, with numerous capes and islands. Hamilton. Little Long, Ox Bow, and other lakes are near Sageville. 16 M. N. by road is Lewey Lake, containing 2 square M. and 1,711 ft. high, with the noble Snowy Mt. near its shores rising to a height of 3,859 ft. Tlie Ra(iuette Lake region is visited from Sageville bv JessuiVs River. Indian and Blue Mt. Lakes (f»7 M. ; a;i M. by water). Piseco Lake is 8 M. S. W. of Sageville (by a road lead- ing along Ox Bow Lake). It is ti^ X 1 i M., and has bohl and picturesque shores, esi)eloying 5,000 laborers, equipped with over 40,000 solar vats (covering 730 acres) anil 15-20,0j0 kettles. 200,000 tons of coal are used annually, and 8-9,000,000 bushels of salt are made, yielding the State (from a tax of Ic. a gallon) a net revenue of |30-40,000. It is thought that the brine comes from vast subterranean deposits of rock-salt. Tiie solar vats are 16 by 18 ft , very shallow, arranged in groups of 3, protected by covers in rainy weather, and each yields 50 bushels during the season. The pro- duct of these sprin.'^s for the last 80 years would make 4 pyramids, each as large as t'.ie great iiyramid of Egyiit. The ]n-ocesses of evaporation and the solar works are w(nthy of inspection (horse-cars from Genesee St.). 170 Route 26. ONONDAGA LAKE. Onondaga I^ake is 6 M. long, \\ M. wide, and 361 ft. above the sea. It is the remnant of a vast basin, and on its shores are found samphire and other marine plants. Small steamers ply between Syracuse and Phojnix, on the Oswego River. In this vicinity were the council centres and chief villages of the Onon- daga Indians, a large tribe of the Six Nations, or Iroquois Confederacy. While the Mohawks and Senecas were the most wnrlike of the tribes, the Onondagas were the conservators and guardians of the religious rites and shrines, and were the Levites of the Confederacy. Tlie Jesuits failed in several attempts to found missions here, and English colonization only began after 17S0. Near Liverpool, m\ the E. shore, was the chief tribal fortress, consisting of 4 bastioned lines of palisades, 30 ft. high, provided with inner galleries and water- pipes to put out fires. Oct. 10, 1615, this stronghold was attacked by Cliamplain, with all the warriors of the Huron nation. He had a movable tower built and, advanced to the palisades by 200 men, while the musketeers cleared the walls. The Hurons then dashed in with firebrands, but were i-epulsed disastrously, and the palisades were flooded with water. Showers of arrows were shot from the fortress walls ; and after a pell-mell fight, which lasted 3 hrs., amid a horrible din, the dauntless Onondagas finally overcame the Franco-Huron invaders, and drove them into a rapid retreat. The fort was taken by the Count de Frontenac in 1696. In 1668 colonies of Frenchmen .and Spaniards settled in this vicinity (near Pomi^ey) ; but the Onondagas, Oneidns, and Cayugas united their forces, and fell upon the Euroi>eans on All Saints' Day, 1659. The unfortunate Eatins were utterly exterminated. It is held that Spaniards visited this locality shortly after the year 1500 ; and a sepulchral stone has been exhumed at Ponipey Hill, bearing Christian emblems, a Latin inscription, and the date 1520. Some distin- guished antiquarians advance the theory that De Soto, the discoverer of the Mississippi, visited Onondaga about the year 1510 ; that this was his " silver- bottomed lake" (glittering with crystals of salt); and that the land of Sa- (jiiechavia, where he experienced such intense cold, was the Susquehanna region of Central New York. The semi-civilized tribe of the Onondagas is now located on a reservation about 6 M. S. of Syracuse, and numbers about 400 souls. Late in 1873 a sharp dissension arose among them about the chieftaincy of the tribe. The squaws favored one candidate, and an Oneida chief installed another, whereupon the contested honor was referred to the grand council of the Six Nations. The ancient highway from Albany to Buffalo followed the course of the present villa-lined W. Genesee St. In 1805 the first house was built on the -site of Syra- cuse, although settlements had been made at Salina about 1787. The Indians sold out in 1788, but settlement was delayed on account of the unhealthy climate, which, however, became salubrious when the forests were removed. "When the Erie Canal was finished to this point (1825) there were 300 inhabitants in Syra- cuse ; in 1855 there were 25,107 ; and in 1872 there were 54,122. From SjTacuse to Rochester the N. Y. Central R. R. has 2 lines, —the " New Route," following the course of the Erie Canal, and reaching Rochester in 81 M. ; and the " Old Route," bending S. through the lake country, and traversing 102 M. between the cities. Tlie through trains pass over the former line ; the Old Route is described in Route 29. The train passes N. W. from Syracuse across the to\Yn of Geddes, and the salt-works and Onondaga Lake are seen on the r. Stations, Mempliis, and Jordan, a factory and canal village S. of Cross Lake. At Weedsport the line crosses the Southern Central R. R. Station, Port Byron (1 M. N. of the village), beyond which the train traverses the Montezuma Marshes and crosses the Seneca River near the Great Bend. On the 1. are 1,900 acres of marsh, producing long coarse grass, and giving name to the town and station of Savannah. Near the populous village of Clyde the train passes extensive plantations of peppermint. Thousands of acres in Wayne County are given to this crop, and J of the mint ttsed in the U. S. ROCHESTER. Route ^6, 171 is raised here. The second and third years' crops are cnt and distilled, yielding 20-25 pounds of oil to the acre ($ 2- 5 a pound). 50c. a pound is charged for distilling the oil, which is sent to market in 1-pound bottles. The line now follows the Erie Canal to Lyons {Congress Hall), the capital of Wayne County, and a neat and pleasant village. It has 3.350 inliabi- tants, 7 churches, 2 weekly papers, 3 banks, several factories, and 20 peppermint distilleries. From Lyons there were shipped, in 1870, 100,000 pounds of peppermint oil, 75,000 bbls. of apples, 600,000 pounds of to- bacco, 3,000 bbls. of cider, and 3,000 baskets of cherries, besides large quantities of grain. Wayne is also probably the foremost county in the Union in the production of dried fruits, for whose manipulation ingenious machinery is used. The Court House is a fine stone building with a large dome and an Ionic portico. Pilgrim Port, 2 M. N. E. of Lyons, has been occupied successively by the Shakers, the Mormons, and the Oneida Com- munists. The train next enters Arcadia (townsliip), and stops at Newark, a village where 2,218 inhabitants support 11 churches of as many different sects. At this point the Central R. R. crosses the Sodus Point and South- ern R. R., which extends 34 M. from Gorham (on the N. Central R. R.) to Lake Ontario. Near Palmyra, Joe Smith claimed to have found the golden plates of the Mormon Bil)le buried in a hillside, while under the guidance of angels. He formed a new religious sect, and led his proselytes to Nauvoo, 111., where he amassed great wealth, and arrogated to himself the title of "President of the Church of the Latter Day Saints." After many lawless acts lie was confined in the county prison at Carthage, where (in 1S44) he was killed by the citizens. In 1847 Brigham Young led the Mormons across the trackless Western plains, and founded Salt Lake City, in Utah Territory. The sect is still on the increase, and has converted the district S. of Salt liake into a rich agricultural land. Spiritual- ism (or spiritism) also dates its origin from the ancient domain of the sacerdotal and superstitious Onondagas ; and its first "rap" was heard by the Fox familj', March 31, 1849, at Hydesville, 7 M. from Palmyra. The austere and sancti- monious Christian sect called the Free Methodists hold their camp-meetings near Palmyra. After leaving Palm>Ta the line nms parallel with the Erie Canal, passes the busy little factory-villages of Macedon, Fairport, and Brigliton, crosses the Genesee River, and enters the city of Rochester. Hotels. — * Osburn House, $4 a day. Main St.: Brackett Hotel, Con^rrss Hall, Reed's, — all near the R. R. station ; Clinton House, Exchange St. ; Whit- comb House, corner Main and Clinton Sts. ; AVood's; Waverley. Amusenieuts at the Opera House, St. Paul St., near the Osburn House; and at Corinthian Hall. Rcadlng-Rooms at the Athenieum, W. Main St. Post- Office in the Arcade, W. Main St. Horse-Cars on Main, W. Main, Alexander, Monroe, St. Paul, Clinton, Ex- change, and State Sts., to the University, Mt. Hope Cemetery, St. Mary's Hospi- tal, Lake Avenue, and Brighton. Omnibuses from corner State and W.'Main Sts. to city line at Ea.st Ave. half-hourly ; to the toll-gate, 8 times daily ; from the Arcade to N. St. Paul St. ; from S. St. Paul St. to South Ave. Sfarjes daily to Greece, Penfielrl, Webster, and Ontario ; tri-weekly to Scottsville, Henrietta, and Rush ; semi-weekly to Honeoye Falls. 1 72 Route 26. ROCHESTER. Railroads. — Rochester Div. Erie Railway, to Corning, 95 M. ; Charlotte Branch, N. Y. Central R. R. to Charlotte, 7 M. ; N. Y. Central R. R. to Suspen- sion Bridge, and to Buffalo ; also tlie Old and New Routes to Syracuse. Steamers from Charlotte to the ports on Lake Ontario. Rochester is a handsome modern city, favorably situated on both sides of the Genesee River at the falls, and 7 M. from Lake Ontario. It has 62,386 inhabitants (in 1870), with an assessed valuation of $ 14,067,275 (5 of its real valuation). There are 56 churches (8 German, 1 French, 10 Cath., 8 Pres., 8 Meth., 7 Epis.) ; 19 schools, with 10,585 pupils ; and 9 Catholic schools and 3 convents, with 2,770 pupils. There are 6 banks, 5 daily papers (2 German), 7 weeklies, and 3 monthlies. The manu- factures are extensive and various; and Rochester claims pre-eminence among the cities of the world for its flour-mills and its nursery trade. Along the immense water-power of the Genesee Falls are placed 30 flour- mills, Avith an annual capacity of 1,000,000 barrels, and from this great product Rochester takes the name of the "Flour City." The immense * nurseries in this vicinity (the largest of which contains 1,000 acres) are ■well wortliy of a visit (in the spring or fall), since here may be seen tlie flnest landscape gardening, with broad masses of brilliant flow^ers, orna- mental grasses, and skilfully trimmed shrubbery. These tracts of fra- grant splendor are diversifled with groves of fruit-trees (attractive in autumn) and hot-houses containing thousands of tropical and exotic flowers. Fruits, plants, and young trees to the value of $2,500,000 are annually shipped from these nurseries (reached by South Ave.). The long street which is known in different parts of its course as Main, W. Main, and West Ave . crosses the Genesee at right angles in the centre of the city, and is the chief business thoroughfare. The * PoAvers Biiil<1in$;s, cornpr of \V. Maiji and State Sts., are the finest used for commercial purposes between N. Y. and Chicago, and merit a visit. They form a tubular block with about 175 ft. length of fronts, and 7 stories high, with marble stairways and large elevators. The centre is of Ohio stone, the wings of ]ilate glass and iron ; the partitions and floors are of brick and iron, and the whole mass rests on a ledge of rock. The building contains 8,000,000 brick, 4,<'00 tons of iron. 65,000 square ft. of marble, and 1"2,000 loads of saiul (in mortar). There are 1,000 tenants. In the upper halls is a large collection of American paintings, — Views on the Hudson, Juniata, and Pleasure Bay, Haymaking Scene, Northcotc; Sylvan Lake, Views on the Farmington, Connecticut', Deerfield, and Blackwater Rivers, Long Branch, Cavuga Lake, and Mt. Tom (Mass.), Longworthy ; Morning on Hudson. Mt. Washington, Fishkill. and the Yo Semite Cahon, Han- son; Views on the Hudson, St. John's, and Alleghtnv Rivers, Lngarde; Tupper's Lake, Shrewsbury River, Boircrs ; Scene at Raritan, Morn at Shetucket, Bertrand; the Rainy Lake, Delaware River, Old Mill on Lehigli, Sunset on Huron, Martinav ; Blue Ridge, liake Sparta, Delaware Water Gap, Krippcndorf ; the Passaic, Cherry Valley, Hohenhavxer ; Twilight on Ossipee, Howard ; Scene in Michigan, Sunset in Rocky Mts., Albany and the Hudson, Evening on Champlain, Siedoll; Wachu- sett Mt., Bonninfiton; Lake George, Bnidly ; Horses, Verhoeckhoven ; several landscapes by Deiiakas, etc. Scores of large steel engravings are also found here. Near the head of the grand stairway are 2 large and valuable paintings by Huhner, of Diisseldorf, — the Expulsion from Eden, and the Betrayal at Gethsemane : also the Massacre of the Innocents. Seyendecker (Paris) ; and inferior co]nes of Cole's Voyage of Life. Over the building is a tower 175 ft. high (always open to visitors ; ROCHESTER. Route 26. 173 small fee), whence a pleasant *Tiew is gained, embracing the whole city, the rich suburban towns, the nurseries of W. Brighton in the S., and in the N. the Genesee River, Charlotte, the broad expanse of Lake Ontario, and (on clear days) the Cana- dian coast beyond. One of the chief stations of the Weather Bureau of the U. S. War Dep"t is located in this building. Near the Powers Buildings is the Arcade, and nearly opposite is the Court House of Monroe County, with a tall Ionic portico. Back of this is the new City Hall, a plain, dignified, and commodious stone building ; and the ornate and costly High School is in the same vicinity. The Athenccum is at present in the Court House, and has a library of over 20,000 volumes. The University of Rochester has ncAV stone buildings fronting across a verdant campus on University Ave. The Ward Cal)inet is said to contain the best geological collections in the U. S. The main hall is a massive sandstone building for lecture-halls ; near which a costly Library hall lias been erected (12,000 volumes in library). The University was founded by the Baptists in 1846, and has 8 professorships^ and about 150 students. The Rochester Theological Seminary (Baptist) has about 70 students, Avith a rich library (15,000 volumes), including 4,600 volumes which formed the library of Neander, the German church- historian. Among the professors are Drs. A. H. Strong, Buckland, and Schaffer. On West Ave. is St. Mari/s Hospital, an imposing stone building 250 ft. long, with accommodations for 800 patients (under the care of the Sisters of Charity). The 3 Catholic asylums shelter 260 orphans ; and the Sisters of Notre Dame teach 1,300 cliildren. The City Hospital (West Ave. ; 125 patients) and the Penitentiary (S. of the city ; 250 inmates) have spacious buildings. On a hill 1 M. N. of the centre of the city and near the river is the Western House of Refuge, Avith extensive builduigs situated on a farm of 42 acres, enclosed by high walls and stockades. It accommodates 500 boys, and was founded by the State in 1849 for the reformation of youthful criminals. The Erie Canal, after passing the Irondequoit Valley on lofty embankments, enters Rochester and crosses the Genesee River on an aqueduct of cut stone which cost $ 600,000. It then meets the Genesee Valley Canal, which runs S. W. 125 M. (with branches) to Pennsylvania, ascending 978 ft, by 97 locks, and built at a cost of nearly $ 8,000,000. The suburban streets of Rochester are adorned with pleasant villas and gardens, and help to confirm the local belief that this is the most beautiful city in N. Y, State. Near the S. line (horse-cars to the gate) is * Mount Hope Cemetery, whose groves and hills and shady promenades form a resort of famed attractiveness. The ornamental gateway opens upon a broad circular lawn, near which is the chapel. On a hill to the 1, is the Observatory tower, commanding the finest * view in this vicinity. The Penitentiary and Insane Asylum are seen near at hand, with the elegant mansion of the late Judge Warner; wliile the eye follows the Genesee 174 Route 26. ROCHESTER. River from the blue hills far in the S. to the broad sheet of Lake Ontario in the N. Rochester and its S. and W. suburbs are also overlooked. The cemetery contains 217 acres, and 22,226 burials have taken place here. The great Ellwanger k Bany nursery is close by (on the N. E.). The Genesee Falls are within the city, and are interesting in an indus- trial point of view. The river falls 22(3 ft. in 3 M., and has 3 cataracts. The upper fall is 96 ft. high, and is best seen by descending the r. bank below and walking up the ledge by the water-side. Much of its water is taken away in races for the use of the mills on the 1. bank, and the Falls present a fine appearance only at higli water. Over these cliffs of Niagara limestone, Sam Patch, the daring gymnast, made his fatal leap into the waters below. From this point the river flows through a deep gorge bordered by clififs (and spanned by the Vincent Place Bridge, a triumph of engineering) to tlie middle falls, 1^ M. below. This cataract is best seen from the 1. bank, and is reached by the horse-cars on State St. and Lake Ave. The middle fall is 25 ft. high ; and a short distance below are the lower falls, wliere the river descends over a ledge of Medina sandstone 84 feet high. The lower falls are not improved, being in a deep ravine, and are much more picturesque than those above. The geological theory is that the river once fell over cliffs higher than those of Niagara; but by attrition carried on through ages on strata of unequal resisting powers, it has worn its way back through the long Rochester gorge, and fonned a succession of smaller cascades. The immense water-power of the upper falls gives Rochester its importance as a manufacturing city. In 1872 there were $ 60,000,000 worth of merchandise exported from Rochester, and $20,000,000 worth of manufactured goods were made. It is said that more of the citizens here own their homes than is the case in any other American city of equal size. The first settler came to this site in 1790, but there was no village for many years. In 1812 the city was laid out and founded hy Nathaniel Rochester ; and its gi-owth began after the close of the War of 1812, and the completion of the Erie Canal. Of the present population (62,386) 7,730 are Germans, 6,078 Irish, 2,658 Canadians, 2,530 English, 510 Hollanders, 475 French, 440 Swiss, 428 Scotch, 71 Poles, 673 from Massachusetts, and 500 from Connecticut. Charlotte (pronounced Sha-loW) is the port of Rochester, and is situated on Lake Ontario, at the mouth of the Genesee. It is 7 M. from the city, and is reached by a branch R. R., or by steamer (in summer; 25c. ) down the river, — a pleasant excursion. The lake-steamers touch here; and the village has 2 elevators and a blast-furnace. Along the W. shore are the long bayous of Greece, and on the E. is the deep and narrow Ironde- quoit Bay. Daily steamers cross Lake Ontario (70 M. ) to Toronto (see Route 28). The beach extending W. from Charlotte is much visited in summer, and has a large hotel and numerous cottages. BATAVIA. Route 26. 1 75 Rochester to Buffalo. The train passes out to the W,, and nms by the small village stations of Chili, Chiirchville, Bergen, and BjTon. 32 M. from Rochester it reaches Batavia {St. James Hotel), the capital of Genesee County, a rich farming district which originally belonged to Massachusetts, and afterwards passed into the possession of Robert Morris and the Holland Land Co. The Company opened roads, and disposed of their lands on liberal terms, xintil the county became well populated and prosperous. Batavia was the central seat of the Holland Company, and was founded in 1800. It has a lucrative trade with the rich "Genesee Country" which surrounds it, and has 3,890 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 3 banks, 3 news- papers, 2 Catholic asylums, and 2 seminaries. The Court House is a large stone building, and the State has an arsenal here. The X. Y. Institution for the Blind is h M. N. of the village, and has new and spacious build- ings wliich were erected at a cost of § 244,000. A railroad runs S. from Batavia to Attica. In 182(3, William Morgan of Batavia, having been initiatfid into the orrler of Freemasons, began the preparation of a book disclosing the secrets thereof. After several attempts at intimidation had failed, Morgan was arrested on a trumped-up suit, and was carried by stiige to Canandaigua, and there imprisoned. On his release, as he left the jail, he was seized, gagged, and hurried away in a close carriage. He was nevcrtimre seen or heanl of by his family and people, and it was supposed that the Masons put him to death because of' his treacherj' to the order. An intense c.Kcitement spread over the Republic, and antimasonic societies were formed on every side, with the avowed purjiose of crushing the order. The struggle lasted for 6 years, and became a great national question ; but though thousands seceded from the fraternity, it suffered no permanent check. The printing-office was guanled by the BaUivians with artillery, and in due time the book of the exi)osure appeared. After leaving Batavia the train passes the stations of Crafts and Pem- broke. It then traverses Erie County, and beyond the stations of Alden, "Wende, Town Line, Lancaster, and Forks, it enters the city of BufEalo (see Route 33, adjinem). Rocliester to Niagara Falls {77 M.). Leaving the Rochester station the train runs W. across the city, passes the extensive freight-depot, crosses the Erie Canal, and traverses the fruit- ful plains of Gates. The chief stations are ; — Spencerport (amid wheat-lands), Adams Basin (a canal-village), and Brockport. Tlie latter village has 3,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of a State Normal School, a fine building of red Medina sandstone, 300 ft. long and 3-4 stories high, in a park of 6 acres. Crossing the ravine of Sandy Creek, the train reaches HoUey, near which are several salt springs. Albion (Han~ington House) is the capital of Orleans County, and has 3,322 inhabitants, 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, 2 banks, and 3 large academies. The Court House has a dome 110 ft. high, and the jail is solidly built of Medina 176 Route 26. LOCKrOKT. sandstone. A costly monument is to be erected in this village in memory of the soldiers of Orleans who fell in the Secession War. The Tonawanda Swamp begins about 5 M, S. of Albion ; and the lake ridge, about 3 M. N., is 165 ft. above the lake, and marks its ancient shore-line. It is many leagues in length, and is 100 - 300 ft. wide at the top, along which runs the old highway and the route of the projected Lake Ontario Shore R. R. Stations, Knowlesville, and Medina (3,000 inhabitants), where there are extensive quarries of dark red sandstone, which is used for building and flagging. Beyond Shelby Centre, and 3-4 M. S. W. of Medina, is a great ancient fortress, with ditches and embankments surrounding 3 acres of land. Trees 400 years old grow upon the ramparts, and many gigantic human skeletons, with weapons and eartlienware, have been found piled in trenches near the fort, seeming to indicate a great battle in prehistoric America. The Oak Orchard Acid Sprinrjs are 6M. S. of Medina. There are 9 springs of different properties within a circuit of SOO ft., and the water is exported in large quantities for medicinal uses. They issue from singular mounds 3-4 ft. high, and the chief chemical constituents are the sulphates of lime, alumina, and mag- nesia, and inoto-sulpliate of iron. This water is remarlcable as containing in each gallon 83 grains of free sulphuric acid, and nnist be diluted when taken internally. It is very efficacious in curing skin diseases and ulcers. There is a similar spring in Persia, and there are 2 in New Granada. Batavia is 12 M. S. E. of the Springs. The Tonawanda Reservation is about 6 M. S. of the Springs, and includes 70 square M. Here dwells the remnant of the Tonawanda tribe of Indians, number- ing about 500 souls, and forming an independent and untaxed community. Passing the stations of Middleport and Gasport, the train reaches Lockport (Jndson House), a city of nearly 15,000 inhabitants, with 3 daily papers, 3 banks, and 14 churches. At this point the Erie Canal leaves the lake ridge or ancient beach from the Erie Level to the Genesee Level, descending 66 ft. by 10 double locks of heavy masonry. These locks give name to the city, and may be seen from the train. The canal also passes throiigh a long cut in the limestone ridge, and furnishes a large surplus of water, giving an hydraulic power along whose channel are nu- merous factories and flour-mills. There is a rich agricultural district about Lockport, and the limestone quarries in the vicinity employ large forces. The railroad crosses the canal on a high bridge, and then the canal di- verges to the S. W., and is seen no more. A branch R. R. runs S. W. from Lockport to Buff"alo in 26 M. After leaving Lockport the train on the main line runs W. 19 M., crossing the towns of Cambria and Niagara, and stopping at Suspension Bridge. Niagara Falls are seen in the dis- tance (1.), and may be reached (in 2 M.) by connecting branch R. Rs. on either side of the river, or by carriage. A T B NIAGARA FALLS. Cave of the Winds. .. , . . . .^ B. 6. Biddies Slairs. . B. 6. Prospect Tower. . . . By. Battle Ground. A. 5. Whirlpool C I. Ji.R. Suspension Bridge Ct). 2, 3. Ne-M . " " e. 5. Prospect Park C. 6. Goat Istatid., . ■ .^. . . C. 6. Bath " ,...~.^ Q.b. Luna ' " .ji .,,9^ B. 6. Grast - -«»-..- D. 7. ^0"^ " -,_... B. 7 Niagara-Falls R.k. Station. . . ,, » C. 6 Cli/ton - - .„ B. 5. N. y. Central " - ... I). 3 Great Western " " .... C j Cataract House. • . ..,, ,. C. 6 International House .... ,,^^ ... C6 Sp.ncer House. (. 6 Cli/ton House. : . .., B. 5 Man teazle House. ....,._.., Di. Aficseuin ,f^ .-.....,. B. 6. Vutoria Hall NIAGARA FALLS. Routed?. 177 27. Niagara Falls. Hotels. — * Cataract House, 600 guests, $4.50 a day (closes late in Oct.); ♦International Hotel, $4.50 a day. These hotels are of the hrst class, and are alongside each other, close to the rapids. Opposite the R. R. station is the Spencer House, 300 guests, $ 8.50 a day (open all the year). The Park Place Hotel (S 3-3.50 a day) is on the main street of the village. There are several smaller and less expensive hotels. On the Canadian side —* Clifton House, facing the Falls and giving the best view {.^ 3.50 a day, — U. iS. money) ; Victoria Hall Hotel, on the heights over the Clifton, .$2-3 a day. The village inns at Urumiaondville (1 M. from the Falls) charge $7-10 a week. At Suspension Bridge, 2 M. from tlie Falls, is tlie Monteagle Hotel, a fine stone building accommodaLing 200 guests ; $2.50-3 a day, $ 12- 15 a week. There are also several inns at tSusp. Bridge and in the Canadian village of Clifton. Kailroads. — The N. Y. Central to New York in 447 M. (Route 20) ; the Erie, to New York in 442 M. (Route 33) ; the Great Western, to Detroit (230 M.) and Chicago (514 M.); the Erie and Ontario, to Queenston and Niagara (12 M.), also to Chippewa and Fort Erie (Buffalo). To Buffalo by the Erie or the N. Y. Central (22-20 M.) ; to Lewiston, by the N. Y. Central, 8 M. ; to Philadelphia, 438 M., by the Erie, Lehigh Valley and N. Penn. R. Rs. To Boston, 506 M., by the N. Y. Central and the Boston and Albany R. Rs. To Baltimore, 421 M. ; to Washington, 401 ; to Richmond, 577 ; to Cincinnati, 450 ; to St. Louis, 726 ; to Memphis, 937 ; to New Orleans, 1,315 ; to Omaha, 1,005 ; to San Francisco, 2,912. Carriages. — The liackmen of Niagara have been a source of continual annoy- ance to visitors by their importunity and extortion. They may eiisily be shaken off by a prompt and firm refusal ; and gentlemen who wish to lide with them should make an explicit verbal contract before starting, —in which the places to be visited, the time to be taken, and the compensation, sliould be distinctly understood by both parties. There is then but little danger of trouble. The tolls on the bridges and roads are paid by the tourist. No reliance should be placed on the hackman's statement of distances. The tariff for carriages is $ 2 an hour, but special contracts may be made at lower rates for visiting specified points. These rates vary with the men, the season, and the size of the party. A buggy and driver may be hired for $ 5 a day. The trip on the Canadian side includes the Table Rock, the Burning Spring, Lundy's Lane, the lower Susi)ension Bridge, and the Whirlpool (and sometimes Brock's mcmument on Queenston Heights). There is but little need of a carriage on the American shore unless &usp. B idge is visited, — Goat Island and Prospect Park being more easily and pleasantly trav- erseii on foot. A carriage and si)au may be hired (outside the hotels) for $ 10 a day to carry 4-5 persons to all the points of interest on both shores, — including the Suspension Bridge and Queenston Heiglits. Tolls and entrance-fees are not included in this price. Guides may be obtained in the village, but there is no fixed tariff. Sliops for the sale of bead-work, baskets, fans, i)hotographs, minerals, spar and agate jewelry, etc., abound in various parts of the village. Many of these articles are manufactured by the Tuscarora Indians, who live on a reservation 7 M. distant. Indian squaws are seen at different points selling these wares, which are generally pretty and inexpensive. The extortions at Niagara have become world-famed, and are much exaggerated. It is true that the tourist is called upon to pay at nearly every step in the vicinity of the Falls (on the American side), but then he is continually using facilities and improvements which have ct)st large amounts of money and are only remu- nerative for a few months in the year. The Fails and their surroundings are fre- quently "done " by parties in a single day ; and as many rare and curious objects are seen as would be found in weeks of ordinary travel. The payment must be in some degree commensurate. Tourists who remain several days or Aveeks at Ni- agara can avail themselves of season-tickets to various points at low rates, and their expenses need be no greater than they would be at New York or Newport. Much of the extra expense at Niagara is due to the fact tliat the majority of tour- ists here indulge in luxuries which are neither necessary or customary. Nowhere are carriages so needless as here, since the distances are short and the roads are unmistakable. A gentleman travelling en gargon may spend 2 days here for less S* T 178 Route 27. NIAGARA FALLS. than $ 10, by avoiding some of tlie less interesting (yet always expensive) locali- ties ; by being satisKeJ witli comfoiLible, instead of luxurious, hotel-acconunoda- tions ; and by walking, as lie wuuld at home. Arriving at tlie Falls in the morn- ing, the day should be devoted to the American siring (40c.). The great vice of modern travel, to wit, the visiting of places in order to soy that they nave been visited by the tourist, is very prevalent at Niagara ; and many (perhaps most) of those who go there come away with a vague idea of a little natural scenery, confusedly mingled with swarms of vociferous hackmen, and obscured by a large expense-roll. Should he devote a week or more to the careful and rev- erent study of this paramount wonder of the world, the summer-voyager would carry away a fadeless memory of sublimity, joining in the enthusiasm of two of the foremost men (in their respective lields of honor) of the Anglo-American race. " You may stand by the water just where it falls otf, and if your head does not swim you may proceed to the brink of Tal)le Rock, and look down into the gulf beneath- This is all froth and foam and spray ; as you stand here it looks as if all the water of the globe was collected round this circle, and pouring down here into the centre of the earth. As we stood to-day at noon, on the projecting point at Table Rock, we looked over into the abyss, and far beneath our feet, arched over this tremendous aggregate of water, we saw a perfect and radiant rainbow. This ornament of heaven does not seem out of place in being half-way up the sheet of the glorious cataract ; it looked as if the skies themselves paid homage to tliis stupendous work of nature By our side, down comes this world of green and white waters, and pours into the invisible abyss. A steady, unvarying, low- toned roar thunders incessantly ujion our ears ; as we look up we think some sudden disaster has opened tlie seas, and that all their floods are coming down upon us at once ; but we soon recollect that what we see is not a sudden or vio- lent exhibition, but the permanent and uniform character of the object wliich we contemplate. There the grand spectacle has stood for centuries — from the crea- tion, as far as we know, without change. From the beginning it has shaken as it now does the earth and the air, and its unvar3ing thunder existed- before there were human ears to hear it." (Daniel Webster.) "It was not until I came on Table Rock, and looked — Great Heaven — on what a fall of bright green water I — that it came upon me in its full might and majesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first ettect, and the enduring one — instant and lasting — of the tremendous spectacle was Peace. Peace of Mind — Tranquillity — calm recollections of the Dead : Great Thoughts of Eternal Rest and Hai)iuness — nothing of Gloom or Terror. Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an Image of Beauty to remain there changeless and indelible until its pulses cease to beat fore\'er I think in every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and leap, and roar and tumble all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below. Still, when the sun is on them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But always does the mighty stream seem to die as it comes down, and always from the un- fathomable gulf rises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never laid, which has haunted this place with the same dread solemnity since darkness brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the deluge — Light — came rush- ing on creation at the Word of God." (Dickens.) Niagara Falls are situated on the Niagara River, 22| M. from Lake Erie, and 13J M. from Lake Ontario. The river is the outlet of Lakes Winnipeg, Winnebago, Superior, Michigan, Huron, St. Clair, and Erie, and drains over L50,000 square M. of country. The geological theory is that at some remote period the waters of Lake Erie covered a vastly greater extent than at present, and were bounded on the E. by the heights at Queenston and Lewiston. By the combined action of water. NIAGARA FALLS. Routed. 179 frost, and ice, a channel was cut deeply througli tliis barrier, and a fall (or succession of falls) with a height of over 300 ft. was formed. Since that period the fall has receded 7 M., leaving the immense gorge between Niagara and Qiieenston. The process of recession is still going on slowly in the same manner. The pounding of the waters disintegrates the soft shale near the bed of the river, until the limestone strata above, being de- prived of support, break into fragments and fall. Within 30 years the Ameri- can Fall has acquired a slight curve, and the Horse-Shoe Fall has changed its outline considerably. The fall plmiged for ages over the present site of the Whirlpool, because the upper limestone was there upheld by a hard sandstone stratum, which resisted disintegration. Although the soft shales are now being cut away, and the luidermined limestone occasionally falls, the retrocession is much slower than formerly, since the river, whicli was but 1,000 ft. wide in the gorge, has now a sweep of over 4,000 ft. Apprehensions have been expressed lest in some future epoch the river shall pound its way back to Lake Erie, upon which a drainage of that sea would ensue; but the character of the strata above the Falls and the increasing width of the river render such an event impossible. Lyell says that 90,000,000,000 cubic ft. of water passes over every hour ; Dwight holds that 100^000,000 tons fall every hour; and another au- thority claims that the hourly flow is 211,836,853 barrels. There is an occasional rise in tlie waters during W. winds on Lake Erie; and 1 ft. of rise on the Falls raises the river below 17^ ft. 2i M. above tlie Falls the river is 3 M. wide, while at the Whirlpool it is narrowed to 400 ft. Winter at Niagara brings rare beauties of icy trees and shrubbery, lofty ice- cones sometimes nearly as high as the Falls, and vast iincles pendent from the cliffs. There was considerable sleighing on the American Rapids in 1856, and an ice bridge covered the river from the Suspension Bridge to the American Falls. At the break-up a dam formed at the mouth of the river, and set the water and ice back to a height of 60 ft. In 1866 tlie Whirlpool was flooded by a gorge of ice below until it became smooth and level. In March, 1848, a W. wind on Lake Erie piled up the ice at the E. end of the lake, making an immense dam at the inlet of the Niagara. The river water soon ran off, leaving but feeble brooks in the old channel, and a few light bands of water over the cliffs. Teams were driven far out over the site - of the rapids, and the roar of the Falls died away. The next day the river broke away the barrier, and swept over its old course with tenfold lury. * Goat Island (entrance, 50c. ; season-ticket, $1) is 5 min. walk from the R, R. station, and is reached by an iron carriage-bridge 360 ft. long, resting on iron-clad and stone-ballasted oaken crilis. The bridge was built in 1856, on the site of a wooden structure of 1818, and during its construction a workman fell into the stream and was swept to the islet below, whence he was rescued by an heroic man in a skiff. There is a fine view from this bridge of the white and turbulent Rapids, which fall 51 ft. in a course of f M., and attain a velocity of 30 M. an hour, — " it seems like a battle-charge of tempestuous waves, animated and infuriated against the sky." Tlie road first crosses Bath Island (2 acres), where some of 180 Routed. NIAGARA FALLS. the Niagara water-power is utilized for the Tribune Paper Mills. Goat Island was rarely visited by the Indians, but Israel Putnam went on it in 1755, and a party of French officers reached it by boats, in 1765. In an early patent it is said to cover 250 acres, but its present extent is about 60 acres, and it is being slowly worn away. In 1779 a goat was put upon its shores (then partly cleared), and his name still clings to the place, althougli the Government boundary maps named it Iris Island. The sequestered groves of this island are the goal of "that great circle of newly wedded bliss, which, involving the whole land during the season of bridal tours, may be said to show richest and fairest at Niagara, like the costly jewel of a precious ring." (See Howells's "Their Wedding Journey.") The path to the r. from the bridge leads (in 5 min.) to the foot of the island and the verge of the Centre Fall, whence there is a foot-bridge to Luna Island, a rocky islet between the Central and American Falls. While a party was on this island (in 1848), a young girl fell into the stream, and a gentleman sprang forward to save her. They both passed over the Falls, and their bodies were afterwards found below, terribly mutilated. From Luna Island the * American Fall stretches away for 1,200 ft., \vith a perpendicular plunge of 161 ft., and the visitor can stand within a span of its crest. Fine lunar bows are seen here on nights when the moon is full. A short distance beyond is a liuilding where guides and water-proof suits (.S 1.50) are furnished for visitors to the * Cave of tlie Winds. The cliff is descended bj'^ a long spiral stairway, and a path leads from the foot to the cave, a wide and lofty recess which has been formed by the disin- tegration of the shaly rocks. It is roofed by the hard limestone stratum, and its W. side is formed by the blue waters of the massive Centre Fall. ( It is prudent for visitors to take off their collars and cuffs before entering this booming and brumal chasm. ) From the outside of the cave double and triple concentric circular rainbows may be seen on a bright aftenioon. A spray-swept plank-walk has Ijeen built out on the rocks near the foot of the fall. On the under-cliff path a gentleman was killed (in 1829) by a heavy rock falling upon him. From this end of the island Sam Patch leaped from a ladder 96 ft. high, feet-foremost, into the river, twice suc- cessively, and came out unhai-med (1829). Fi'om the foot of the stairway a path diverges to the 1. , along which Prof. Tyndall and a guide advanced in 1873, wading waist-deep torrents, and passing nearly to the centre of the Horse-Shoe Fall. The road which continues along the top of the cliff soon reaches a bridge which leads to the islet where Terrapin Tower formerly stood (it was blown up in 1873). A visitor once fell from this bridge and was carried to a rock on the verge of the Falls, whence he was rescued speechless by means of ropes. The * * view of the Horse-Shoe Fall from this islet is one of the grandest about Niagara. The width of this Fall is nearly 2,400 ft., with a height of 158 ft. (6 ft. less than the NIAGARA FALLS. Roxite^. 181 American Fall). Near its centre is the smooth dark green current which marks the deepest water of the Falls, — over 20 ft. The term " Canadian Fall " is often applied to the waters W. of Goat Island, but it is inexact, since the national boundary passes down the centre of the Horse- Shoe, leaving fully half of the W. Falls in the domain of the Republic. The out- line of this Fall has been so changed that the horseshoe curve is less apparent than formerly. In recent yeard large sections of the adjacent cliffs of Goat Island have fallen into the abyss below, and Gull Island, near the curve of the Falls, has been washed away. In 1827 the condemned ship Michigan was sent over the Horse-Shoe Falls' with a cargo of animals, one of which, a sagacious bear, de- serted the ship in the midst of the rapids, and swam ashore. In 1S41 the old frigate Detroit (of Perry's fleet) was set adrift toward the Falls, but lodged among the rocks in the rapids, and was cut to pieces by the ice the next winter. Hun- dreds of wild ducks are carried over eveiy year, and are picked up dead on the river below. Centuries ago the Indians were accustomed to spend some weeks of the autumn here, for the game which they could find. In 1810 a salt-boat sunk off Chippewa, and :J of the crew were carried over the Falls ; in 1821, a scow and 2 men went over ; in 1825, 5 more, 3 of Avhom were in canoes ; in 1841, a sand- scow and 2 men, and 2 snuigglers ; in 1847, a young boy, who tried to row across above; in 1848, two children were playing in a skitf, when it got loose, — the mother, wading out, saved one, but the other was swept over, grasjting the boat on each side. In 1871. 3 strangers tried to row across far above, but the current drew them in, and carried them down ; and in 1873. a newly married couple, while rowing about near Chippewa, were drawn into the central current, and passed over the Falls in each other's arms. Many other disasteis have occurred above and below the Falls, as if to verify the Indian tradition that Niagara demands 2 victims yearly. Two bull-terrier dogs have made the plunge over the American Falls without harm. One of them lived all winter on a dead cow which it found on the rocks below ; and the other trotteil up the ferry-stairs, veiy much aston- ished and grieved, within an hour from the time when he was thrown from Goat Island Bridge. The * Three Sisters are rugged and romantic islets S. W. of Goat Island, and are reached by .3 pretty .suspension bridges connected witli the road leading from Terrapin Bridge. They afford the best * view of the Rapids at their widest, deepest, and most tumultuous part, where the base of their heaviest wliirl is wreathed with mist. A light bridge leads to another picturesque islet near the third Sister. "The Three Sisters are mere fragments of wilderness, clumps of vine-tangled woods, planted upon masses of rock ; but they are parts of the fascination of Niagara which no one resists." Between Moss (the first Sister) and Goat Island is the Hermit's Cascade, where Francis Abbott, the Hermit of Niagara, was wont to bathe. He was a young Englishman, who had travelled over nuich of Euroiie and Asia, and had alter- nateil protracted theological studies with metropolitan dissipation until a menial unsettling ensued. He (tame here in 1839. and lived on Goat Island for 2 years, with no companions but a dog and cat, flute, violin, and books. He dres.sed in a long robe, and wrote much (in Latin). Removing to Point View, near the Amer- ican Fall, in 1841, he was soon afterward drowned while bathing. From the head of Goat Island, 1 M. up river, is seen the white house which stands on the site of Fort Schlosser, near which, at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, Father Hennepin and La Salle spent the winter and spring of 1678 - 79. They built here a 60-ton vessel, the Griffin, and sailed up the great lakes to Green Bay (Wisconsin). Fort du Portage was afterward erected at Schlosser, and was taken by the English in 1759, after a siege, in which the French garrison destroyed their armed store-ships in Burnt Ship Bay. On Navy Island (near Schlosser) the Cana- dian insurgents of 1837 had their head-quarters, and communicated with the 182 Routed. NIAGARA FALLS. American shore by the steamer Caroline. A British force l)oar(letl the Caroline by night, and after a sliort struggle beat off the crew. Tlie vessel was then set on lire, and drifted down, blazing througli the darkness, to the cascades below Goat Island, where she went to pieces (some say that she plunged over the Falls in a mass of flame). Col. Allan McNab, who ordered this attack, was soon aftenvai-ds knighted. Grand Island is above Navy Island, and is V2 M. long and 2 - 7 M. wide (containing 17,240 acres). In 1S20 Mordccai M. Noah endeavored to make this island a home for the scattered Hebrews throughout the world. After much legislation and wide correspondence with his compatriots, he put up a monument on the island, inscribed, "Ararat, a city of refuge for the Jews." etc. But the European Rabbins denounced the movement, and the project was abandoned. * Prospect Park (entrance, 20c.; season ticket, 50c,; entrance and ferriage over and back, 50c.) is on the mainland, by the side of the American FalL Its chief point of interest is a i>latform, inwalled by a low parapet, on the very verge of the Fall, vvlience the deep abyss and the broad curve of the waters may be observed in security. A railway 360 ft. long, and inclined at an angle of 33", leads from the Park to the river below. The cars are dra^vn by an endless cable, which is worked by water-power. Paths lead from the base of the cliff into the sjiray toward the Falls; also to Point View, and to 2 small caverns nearly 1 M. distant (the patli is rugged and dangerous). Neai- the foot of the railway the tourist enters a large rowboat, which is tossed about as if on a stormy sea by the tumultuo\is waters. The * view of the Falls from mid-stream (or ^ of the way across) is awe-inspiring, and gives the full idea of their gi-eat height, which is not obtained from the banks above. This ferry was established in 1825, and no accident has ever occurred on it. From 1854 to 1867 the steamer Maid of the Mist plied between the Suspension Bridge and the close proximity of the Falls. Tlie passage of the river takes 10 min., and the depth of the water on the line of transit is 180 ft. A road ^ M. long leads from the landing to the top of the clift", near tlie Clifton House (carriages are in waiting). Tl^ *New Suspension Bridge (25c. for pedestrians) is 6-800 ft. be- low the Falls, of which it gives a grand panoramic * view " from the begin- ning of the American Fall to the farthest limit of the Horse-Shoe, with all the awful pomp of the Rapids, the solemn darkness of the wooded islands, the mystery of the vaporoiis gulf, the indomitable wildness of the shores, as far as the eye can reach up or down tlie fatal stream Of all tlie bridges made with hands it seems the lightest, most ethereal ; it is ideally graceful, and droops from its slight towers like a garland." That '^apotheosis of industry," the white and slender fall called the Bridal Veil, is seen on the American .shore, and is the end of " a poor but respectable mill-race which has devoted itself strictly to business, and has turned mill-wheels instead of fooling around water-lilies. It can afford that ultimate finery." The bridge was finished in 1869, at a cost of $ 175,000, and is the longest suspension bridge in the world, being 1,190 THE BURNING SPRING. Route 27. 183 ft. from cliff to cliff, and 1,268 ft. from tower to toAver. 1,240 ft. of platform is sustained 190 ft. above the river by 2 cables, each of which is 7 inches in diameter, and is composed of 7 ropes, each containing 133 wires. The American tower (10c. for the ascent) is 100 ft. high; and the Canadian tower (ascended by an elevator; 25c.) is 105 ft. high, and com- mands a noble * view of the Falls and the great ravine. The terminus is near the Clifton House, a spacious first-class hotel which faces the entire range of the Falls. Passing from the Clifton House toward the Falls, a continuous and majestic prospect is afforded. The Musetiin (.50c.) is soon approached. It contains collections of coins, minerals, Egyptian relics and mummies, casts from Ninevite sculptures, a line of grotesque wax figures, and an extensive aiTay of stuffed birds and animals arranged in a forest-scene. There is a pleasant prospect from the upper balconies, ami in the hall below is a large salesroom for bijouterie characteristic of Niagara. Live buffaloes are kept in the yard. Oil-cloth suits and guides are furnished here (.$1) for the passage under the Horse-Shoe Fall. When apparelled in these damp and clammy suits, ladies look like squaws, and gentlemen resemble Cape Ann fishermen in a heavy gale. Termination Rock is reached near the edge of the Fall, and visitors, blinded by the spray, and deafened by the roaring of the waters, will be satisfied to return speedily. Tourists without guides and appropriate clothing should not venture near the Fall. Another house beyond the Museum also furnishes conveniences for going under. 300 ft. above the Museum Is Table Rock, from which is given the grandest front * * view of the entii'e Falls ; and time should be unlimited at this point. Some caution Is necessary here. A young lady once fell over, and was fatally bruised on the rocks, 115 ft. below. In 1850 a section of this ledge, 200 x 60 ft., and 100 ft. thick, broke away, and plunged into the chasm below with a tremen- dous roar. An omnibus which was standing upon it went daym. also, and was shi\'ered to atoms, the driver barely escaping by the warning of the splitting rocks. Pieces of this rock fall occasionally during the winter and spring, render- ing somewhat perilous the narrow shelf below which leads to the Gotliic arch under the Horee-Shoe Fall. The remaining part of Table Rock is thought to be destined to remain firm, as there is but little overhang ; although a crack 125 ft. long and 60 ft. deep was left when the great crash took place. The * Burning Spring is 2 M. above Table Rock, and should be ap- proached by the river-road, which affords a fine view of the Great Ox- Bow Rapids and the broad river above. On Long Lsland, near the bend of the Falls, is a tower (50c.) from whicli the Rapids may be seen to good advantage, and also the E. line of the Horse-Shoe. Just above is the fine mansion and park formerly owned by Mr. Street, a retired bachelor and fervid lover of Nature, who won the ill-will of the inhabitants of this section and the gratitude of all tourists by refusing to allow mills to be erected on his wide riverward domains. The Burning Spring (40c. ad- mission) is highly cliarged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which bums 184 Routed. THE SUSPENSION BRIDGE. with an intermittent pale blue flame when ignited. The water is in a state of ebiillition, and the spring-house is kept darkened to increase the effect. A tub with a long iron pipe through the bottom is inverted over the waterj and a constant stream of gas passes through it, affording a jet of flame over 3 ft. high. The spring is at the water's edge, and overlooks the white rapids to Goat Island ; while nearer at hand is Cynthia Island, joined to the Street domain by a pretty footbridge. It is best to return to the Falls by the parallel road on the heights, by the Loretto Convent, from which good views are gained, including the best overview of the Horse-Shoe. "By all odds, too, the most tremendous view of the Falls is afforded by tlie point on this drive whence you look down upon the Horse-Shoe, and behold its three massive walls of sea rounding and sweeping into the gidf together, the color gone, and the smooth brink showing black and ridgy." A road diverging to the 1., near the Falls, leads to the hamlet of Dricmmondville (l^ M. from Table Rock), on whose heights is a tower which overlooks the battle-field of Lundy's Lane and a great extent of country, from Brock's monument on Queenston Heights to Buffalo and Lake Erie. The battle-field of Chippewa is 2 M. S. of the Burning Spring, and just beyond the hamlet of Chippewa (see page 186). The * Suspension Bridge which connects Suspension-Bridge village and Clifton, and sustains the track of the Great Western Railway, is about 2 M. N. of the Falls. It was built in 1852, under the direction of John A. RoebUng, and cost $500,000. It is 800 ft. long, and 230 ft. above the river, and weighs 800 tons, being fitted to sustain a maximum weight of 7,309 tons. It is supported by 4 cables (10^ inches thick), each of which contains 3,684 wires, with a total length of over 4,000 M. of wire; and its towers are 78 and 88 ft. high. The first wire was drawn across by a string which had been carried over on a kite. 18 ft. above the carriage- way is the railway-floor, over which the heaviest trains pass safely, causing a deflection in the curve of but 5-10 inches. On the S. W. the New Suspension Bridge and the Falls are seen, while on the N. are the white and terrible * Whirlpool Rapids. Just beyond the Monteagle House (American side) is a double elevator (50c.), which leads from the top of the bank 300 ft. do^vn to the verge of these marvellous rapids, where the waters of the great lakes are compressed into a narrow gorge, and rush down with such fury that the centre of the stream is 30-40 ft. higher than the sides. Jime 15, 1867, the intrepid pilot Robinson guided the steamer Maid of the Mist as she shot these rapids, " like the swift sailing of a large bird in a downAvard flight." Her smoke-stack was beaten down, and the vessel was tossed like a leaf on the huge surges, but speedily reached the calm water below Lewiston in safety. About 1 M, below the rapids is the "Whirlpool, situated in a circular bend of the river, and bounded by cliffs 350 ft. high. Logs and other things which ST. CATHARINE'S. Routed. 185 are drawn into these concentric currents whirl about there for many- days. Queenston is an insignificant Canadian haralet 6 M. N. of the Falls ; above v/hich a lofty monument was erected on the place Avhere Gen. Brock fell in the battle of Queenston Heights. This was blown tip by a scoun- drelly refugee in 1840 ; and in 1853 the present noble * monument was dedicated. On a base 40 ft. square and 20 ft. high are 4 colossal lions, between which rises a lofty fluted shaft of sandstone. On the Corinthian capital is a relief of the Goddess of War, and above this is a dome wliicli supports a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. The monument is 185 ft. high, and is ascended by an inner spiral stairway of 250 steps. The view from this point is extensive, and includes the tower on Lundy's Lane, a con- siderable sweep of the river, and the broad lake. St. Catharine's {,* Stephenson House; * Welland House; Spring Bank, famous for its baths) is a city of Ontario, 6 M. from Queenston. It is called "the Saratoga of Canada," and has several mineral springs, producing the best iodo-bromated saline Avaters in the world (except those of Prussian Kreuznach). They are taken for cases of go lit, neuralgia, cutaneous diseases, and rheumatism, eitlier by means of warm baths or internally (highly diluted). Tlie principal minerals in solution are the cldorides of sodium, calcium, and magnesium. Welland is located on the Welland Canal ; and a favorite drive is to Lake Ontario, 3 M. distant, — whence, fi'om Port Dalhousie, steamers run daily to Toronto. 6 M. N. of Queenston is the village of Niagara. It is probable that the fearless Franciscan monks and the adventurous fur- traders of France had often seen the Falls at a very early day. But the first de- scription (with a sketch) was made by Father Hennepin in 1678, who gave them a heiglit of 600 ft., saying also : " Betwixt the Lakes Erie and Ontario theie is a vast and prodigious cadence of water which falls down a surprising and astonish- ing height, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel The waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most liideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that of thunder : for when the wind blows out of the S. their dismal roaring may be heard more than 15 leagues. The River Niagara, having thrown itself down this incredible precipice, continues its impetuous course for 2 leagues together .... with an inexpressible rapidity The two brinks of it ai-e so prodigious high tliat it would make one tremble to look steadily upon the water rolling along with a rapidity not to be imagined." Before this visit the peaceful Kahkwa tribe (called the Neuter Nation) had been driven from the region, and the Senecas had replaced them , i)ut did not dwell near the cascades (Hennepin thinks they feared to be made deaf by "the horrid noise of the Fall"). In 1687 the Baron La Hontan visited the Falls, and reported them to be 7-800 ft. high and 1^ M. wide. The name Niagara is said to mean " Thunder of Waters." In 1678 La Salle en- tered the river (with 16 men, in a 10-ton brigantine) singing the Te Deum, and the next year sailed from above the Falls in the first vessel on the Great Lakes. In 1687 a fort was built at Niagara by the Marquis De Nonville ; and in 1750 Fort du Portage was erected above the Falls. This was taken in the year of the Con- quest of Canada, and was sti-engthened under the name of Fort Schlosser. In 1763 occurred a horrible massacre at Devil's Hole, 3^ M. N. of the Falls, when a large force of Senecas ambushed a commissary-train with a strong escort, on the shore of Bloody Run. But 2 of the train-guards escaped, while the supports 186 Render. THE NIAGARA FRONTIER. which were hurried from Le''.vist(jjii to the sound of the firing were neai'ly all put to the tomahawk in a second ambush. Many of the victims Avere cast alive from the lofty cliffs into the boiling Niagara, and their horses and wagons were hurled down after them. Tho Battles along the Niagara Frontier. The Battle of Qucenston Heights was fought Oct. 13, 1812. A small force of U. S. regulars crossed the river before dawn and stormed the Heights under a heavy fire, but were coon hotly engaged with fresh British troops brought up by Sir Isaac Brock. After a long coutest, in which Brock was killed, the regulars under Scott and Wool held their ground and repulsed a second attack by 250 Mo- hawks under Brant But most of the large army of N. Y. militia refused to cross' to their aid from Lewi.ston, and Gen. Sheaffe soon fell upon the heroic little band v/Ith an overwhelming Canadian force, and compelled it to surrender. The British lost loO men ; and the Americans lost 1,100 men (900 i)risoners, of whom 4 - 500 were not engaged, and were hidden under the banks of the river). After several sharj) actions ali>ng t!ie river, in May, 1813, an American fleet and army attacked the fortifications (garrisoned by 1,800 men) at tlie mouth of the Niagara and captured them by a naval bombardment and a land-battle, inflicting on tho British a loss of 863 men. 1,300 Americans pursued the enemy as far as Stony Creek, where they were surprised at night and lost 151 men, and their genera);? and artillery, while the British loss was 178. The Americans were soon afterward defeated near Thorold with a loss of 540 men ; and were obliged at a later day to burn NeAvark and withdraw across the river to Fort Niagara, which Avas soon captured by a night attack, and LcAviston Avas sacked and destroyed. After vari- ous sharp actions near Buffalo, Gens. Scott and BroAvn advanced to within 4 M. of Niagara Falls, and there(July 5, 1814) Avas fought the Batth of CJiippea-a. The combatants Avere 1,300 Americans and 1,700 Britons, and after a long and obsti- nate conflict of infantry, the enemy fled in confusion, having lost 604 men (Ameri- can loss, 335). " O'er Huron's wave the sun A^^as low, And while the phantom chained his eight, The weary soldier Aratchcd llie bow Ah ! little thought he of the fight, — Fast fading from the cloud below The horrors of the dreamless night, The dashing of Niagara. Tliat posted on so rapidly." The Battle ofNiafjara Falls, or Lundy's Lane, Avas fought July 25, 1814, on the heights 1 M. W. of the Falls. Several days after the victory at Chippewa, Scott advanced with 1,200 men, and engaged the British at Lundy's Lane. He supposed that but a small force was before him, but in reality it AA^as the Avhole hostile army. Jessup's 25th Eegulars charged through the lines of Wellington's veterans and captured Gen. Riall and his stafl', and at 9 in the evening the rest of the army reinforced Scott. A little later. Col. Miller and the 21st Regulars advanced up the heights in the moonlight and stormed the British batteries above. After a terrible hand-to-hand contest with the infantry supports. Miller held the hill, Avith 7 pieces of British artillery, and repulsed 4 charges of the enemy. When the last British assault Avas disastrously repulsed, the Americans remained in possession of the enemy's positions and guns. Later in the night they retired a short dis- tance from the field and battery, which Avere reoccupied by the royalists. There were 2,600 Americans in this battle (of whom 852 were lost\ and 4,500 BritivSh (of whom 878 Avere lost). The Battle of Niagara Falls " has few parallels in history in its Avealth of gallant deeds. It was fouglit wholly in the shadows of a summer evening betAveen sunset and midnight Above Avas a serene sky, a placid moon in its wane, and innumerable stars, — a vision of Beauty and Peace ; beloAV Avas the sulphurous smoke of battle, .... out of Avhicli came the quick flashes of lightning and tlie belloAving of the echoes of its voice, —a vision of Horror and Strife. Musket, rocket, and cannon, cracking, hissing, and booming ; and the clash of sabre and bayonet, with the cries of human A^^)ices, made a horrid din tliat commingled with tlie awful, solemn roar of the great cataract hard by, whose muffled thunder-tones rolled on, on, forever, in infinite grandeur when the puny drum had ceased to beat, and silence had settled upon the field of carnage. There the dead were buried, and the mighty diapason of the flood Avas their requiem." (LOSSING.) n T ■ U. hee fcir im( haA to- v/H Bri 4- sev atti anc Bri Cre and def. bin cap ous of J con nat' can T heit adv. thai Jess eapl rein the terr 7 pi' Brit oftl tanc wen who in it even moo was oflij Stril clasl that niufl drun the( (Los NIAGARA. Routers. 187 28. Niagara Falls to Toronto and Montreal. Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River. Trains leave Niagara Falls twice daily (in summer ; once daily at other seasons) for Lewiston, where connections are made with steamers for Toronto (fare througli to Toronto, $2). Passengers from the Canadian side (Clifton House, etc.) will find it more convenient to take trains on the Canada Southern Railway from Clifton station to Niagara (at the mouth of the river), where the steamers stop on the way from Lewiston to Toronto. Some tourists prefer to take the Great Western Railway from Suspension Bridge to Hamilton (43 M.), a handsome city of 28,000 inhabitants, whence the Royal Mail steamers start for Montreal (Toronto being a way-station). Others, during stormy weather on the lake, pass by rail to Hamil- ton and Toronto (82 M.), and thence by the Grand Trunk Railway to Kingston, at the efflux of the St. Lawrence (161 M. from Toronto). There are many who go from Lewiston to Toronto by boat, and then take the train for Kingston or Mon- treal ; but in pleasant summer weather the lake route is preferable. After leaving Niagara Falls the train passes along the edge of the gorge in which the river flows, and soon crosses the rails of the main line to the West (at Suspension Bridge). The river is now left, and the line runs out by the Academy of the Holy Angels, and returns (in 3-4 M. ) to the edge of the profound chasm in which flows the Niagara, white with i-apids, and contracted into a narrow channel. After 2-3 M., in which the train whirls along a lofty gallery in the cliff" far above the river, the Lewiston station is reached. Stages are taken to the steamboat-landing, which is nearly 1 M. distant. Lewiston is a decadent village at the head of navi- gation, and at the N. base of the mt. range through which the Niagara has cut its way during the past 35,000 years (Lyell). A fine suspension bridge was built thence to Queenston in 1850, with a span of 1,045 ft., and a height of 60 ft., but was capsized during a heavy gale. The Tuscarora Reservation is 3 M. E. of Lewiston, and contains 6,249 acres, on which live 372 Indians, most of whom are engaged in making knick-knacks for the shops at the Falls. The Tuscaroras were driven by hostile tribes from their home in North Cai-olina (in 1712), and migrated to New York, where they joined the Iroquois Confederation, which was afterwards known as the Six Nations. The steamer passes out into the stream with a fine retrospect of the mouth of the Niagara gorge and the moni;ment-crovvned Heights of Queenston. At the mouth of the river, the American Fort Niagara is passed on the r., and on the 1. are the ruins of Fort George, the strong works of the Anglo-Canadian Fort Massasauga, and the village of Niagara. The great summer resort called The Queen's Royrd Niagara Hotel fronts on the lake, and is a favorite retreat for the aristocracy of Toronto. The steamer now enters Lake Ontario (Ontario is an Indian word, meaning "handsome water"), and running on a N. W. course for about 30 M., enters the harbor of Toronto. Hotels. — * Rossin House, .S3 a day ; * Queen's Hotel, Front St., .$3 ; Mansion House, opposite Rossin House (corner King and York Sts.), S 1.50- 2 ; Revere House, King St., small and comfortable, !$ 1.50 ; American House, Yonge St., near the G. W. statiou, lately rebuilt : Albion Hotel ; St. James, near the Union Rail- way Station. Restaurant in tlie Union Station. 188 Route 28. TORONTO. Carriages. — 25c. a course in either of the city divisions ; 50c. from one di- vision to another; $] an hour. Horse-cars (bv.) on King, Yonge, and Queen Sts., to Trinity College and the Lunatic Asylum. Stages daily from the Bay Horse Inn (Yonge St.) to Thornhill, Richmond Hill, Rouge Hill, Cooksville, and Stouffville. Keading-Koomg. — At the Y. M. C. A. rooms, corner of Queen and James Sts. ; Mechanics' Institute, Church and Adelaide Sts. Post-Office, on Adelaide St., at the head of Toronto. Amusements. Royal Lyceum Theatre, King St. ; Lectures and Music at Music Hall, Adelaide St. ; Masonic Hall, Toronto St. ; Shaftesbury Hall, Queen and James Sts. Railways. —From the Union Railway Station, on Front, between York and Simcoe Sts. Grand Trunk, to Guelph, 48 M. ; to Detroit, 231 M. ; to Goderich, 133 M. ; to Montreal, 333 M. : to Portland, Me., 628 M. Great Western, to Ham- ilton, 39 M. ; to Niagara Falls^ 82 M. ; to Detroit, 225 M. ; to Southampton (on Lake Huron), 187 M. Northern Railway, to Orillia (on Lake Simcoe), 86 M. ; to Meaford (on (Jeorgiau Bay), 115 M. Toronto, Grey, and Bruce Railway, to Mt. Forest, 88 M. ; to Owen Sound (on Georgian Bay), 178 M. Toronto and Nipissing Railway, to Coboconk (on the Victoria Co. Lakes), 88 M. Steamers. — The Canadian Navigation Co.'s Royal Mail Line vessels leave twice daily, for Hamilton and Montreal. The boat leaving Hamilton at 9 a. m., leaves Toronto at 2 p. m. A steamer leaves Toronto once daily (twice in summer) for Lewiston, 30 M. S., connecting with trains for Buffalo. The Silver Spray leaves every afternoon for Port Dalhousie and St. Catharine's. Toronto, the capital of the Province of Ontario and the " Queen City of the West," is situated on a low sandy plain on the N. W. shore of Lake Ontario, between the Don and Humber Rivers. The harbor is safe and commodious, and is formed by a sandy bar (7 M. long and 2^ M, from the shore) which ends at Gibraltar Point, opposite the city. Toronto is the chief city of Upper Canada, and has a population of 80,000, with a valua- tion of $ 33,645,000. The population in 1850 was 25,000. There are 54 churches, 13 masonic lodges, and 10 banks, while the press is represented by 5 dailies, 14 weeklies, and 26 monthlies. The exports in 1871 were $ 2,118,978, and the imports were $ 10,354,265. Tliere are 3 grain-eleva- tors on the harbor-front, with a storage capacity of 615,000 bushels. The streets are level and well paved, and run N. and S., E. and W., crossing each other at right angles. The princijial streets are King and Yonge, the latter crossing King and riinning N. for 33 M., with line villas in the environs of the city. The * University College of the Univ. of Toronto (open 2-5 P. M.) is situated in a pleasant park, and is reached (from Queen St.) by College Avenue, 4,000 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, witli double rows of shade trees. The building forms 3 sides of a quadrangle 250 ft. square (the length of the S. front being 384 ft.), and cost over $ 500,000. Tlie various fronts have a unique and imposing appearance, and the whole forms the best specimen of Norman architecture in America. In the centre of the S. front is a massive tower 120 ft. high, under which is the * main portal, which, with the great window above, is a perfect flower of Norman orna- mentation. Passing through the entrance one enters a lofty vestibule traversed by a line of round arches upheld by stunted columns with gro- tesquely carved capitals. The massive walls running through the interior TORONTO. Route 28. 189 of the building, and the stained timber roofs, should be noticed. A stair- way to the r. from the entrance leads up to the Library (20,000 volumes), which occupies a large, well-liglited hall with a pointed oaken roof. The stairway to the 1. leads to the Museum, a hall similar to the Library (75X36 ft.), and filled with natural-liistory collections in well-arranged cabinets. The E. building is readied by a round tower in which stone stairs ascend by a range of stained-glass windows to the reading-room ; and contains the Convocation Hall, a spacious wainscoted chamber ending in a stained-glass window, and covered by a pointed timber roof, which rests on richly carved corbels of Caen stone. A broad stairway by the door leads to the Senate Hall, whose vestibule is lined with quaintly carved Caen-stone corbels. Tlie W. range (336 ft. long) is occupied by the rooms of the students, and at the S. W. corner is the round building of the Laboratory. The E. front (260 ft. long) has 2 towers topped with spires, in one of which is a Norman portal with sturdy columns carved with chevrons. The University was founded in 1827, with an endowment (from King William IV.) of 226,000 acres of land, which now yiekls a large revenue. It has 9 professors and 5 lecturers, with 32 scholarships. The buildings are of gray rubble-stone, trimmed with Ohio and Caen stone, and are of picturesquely irregular outlines. To the E. is the * Queen's Park, a domain of 50 acres, whicli has been leased to the city for 999 years. Beyond the E. facade is a sinuous lakelet, near whose S. shore is a tall brown-stone monument, with 4 marble statues in the upper niches (2 military and 2 allegorical female figures), and a colossal marble statue of Britannia on the top. " Canada erected this monument as a memorial of her brave sons who fell at Limeridge, or died from wounds received in action, or from disease contracted in the service whilst defending her frontier in June, 18G6." N(!ar the entrance to the Park on this side is a fine bronze statue of Queen Victoria (by Marshall Wood), at whose foot are two trophy cannon from Inkermann and Sebastopol. A short distance N. of the University is Knox College (Presbyterian; with 5 instructors), while on Clover Hill (E. ) is St. Basil's Church, luider monks of the order of Basilians. * St. James Cathedral (Episcopal) is a stately edifice on the comer of King and Church Sts. The architecture is the early English Gotliic, and the seclusion of the building among umbrageous grounds adds to its attractiveness. It is 200 X 115 ft., with a height in the nave of 70 ft. (in the aisles, 35 ft.). The spire is 316 ft. high, and is adorned with a great illuminated clock from the Vienna Exposition. The open timber-roof is well adorned, and the wood-work of the pews and choir-stalls is worthy of notice. The chancel (semi-octagonal ; 42 ft. deep) has lancet-windows filled with stained glass. Nearly opposite the Cathedral is St. Lawrence Hall, with an extensive market-place, S. of 190 Route 28. TORONTO. which is tlie City Hall, on a broad square near the harbor. Just N. of the Catliedral is the College of Technology (well endowed by the Govern- ment), and in the same building is the Mechanics' Institute, with its library (7,000 volumes), halls, and reading-room. Farther N. is the new and elegant Metropolitan Wesleyan Church (on Magill Square), having a massive tower surmounted by graceful pinnacles. St. Michael's Catlie- dral (Catholic) is near by, and is a spacious edifice 200 X 90 ft., with an ornate ceiling %Q ft. above the floor of the nave. The edifice is in deco- rated Gothic architecture, and has broad transepts with rose-windows. The spire is 250 ft. high. To the W. is Trinity Church, secluded in a quiet square; and a short distance N. is the Normal School. The main building is in Palladian architecture, and contains a large hall. The Model Schools ai-e near by, and so is the Educational Museum, which, be- sides many other curiosities, contains several casts from ancient statuary and a collection of Italian and Flemish paintings. These buildings are surrounded by 7^ acres of grounds, which are well laid out and adorned with trees and flowers. The Masonic Hall is on Toronto St., and has an ornate front of Ohio stone, while the upper story is occupied by the lodge, chapter, and encampment rooms. At the head of Toronto St. is the new and elegant building of the Post-0 ffi.ce. In the district bounded by King, York, Front, and Nelson Sts. are the large banks and wholesale houses. * Osgoode Hall is a stately Government building (on Queen St.) which is used for the sessions of the 4 Suj)erior Courts of the Province, and also for a laAv school. It is in classic architecture, with fine colonnades and a massive and fire-proof interior. The cost was % 420,000. Between Front St. and the harbor, and the most conspicuous object as the city is ap- proached from the lake, is the long and lofty Union Railway Station, with its 3 towers. In this vicinity (N. W.) are the old Provincial Parlia- ment Buildings and their subordinate ofiices. The Upper Cctnoda College fronts on King St., and has a range of very homely buildings. Trinity College is W, of the city (Queen St. horse-cars), and is situated in pleas- ant grounds (20 acres) overlooking the bay. It is in the 15th-century pointed style, and has numerous gables and turrets. The front is 250 ft. long, and there are wings running back 53 ft. It was founded in 1851 by Bishop Strachan. In this vicinity is the spacious building of the Provin- cial Lunatic Asylum, surrounded by 200 acres of ornamental groxmds, S. of whicli is the Crystal Palace, an extensive exposition building. The General Hospital is a fine building on the E. of the city, near the Victoria Medical College. The House of Providence (near St. Paul's, on Power St.) is carried on by 16 Sisters of St. Joseph and cares for 240 orphans and 110 blind, lame, or incurable folk. The Loretto Abbey (45 mins ; on Wellington Place) and the Convent of the Most Precious Blood (on St. Joseph St.) are interesting Catholic institutions. PORT HOPE. Route 28. 191 Toronto means " Trees on the Water," and was a name applied by the Indians to the low groves on Gibraltar Point. On the site of tlie city the capital of Up- per Canada was founded by Gov. Sinicoe in 1797 ; and in 1813 it had 9uO inhabi- tants, with fortifications garrisoned by 800 soldiers. It was then called Little York, and was a post of much importance. An American fleet under Com. Chauncey appeared off the harbor (May 27, 1S13), and opened a heavy fire on the lines ; while detachments of U. S. re..,^ulars landed and carried the outworks at tlie point of the bayonet. The British al)andoned tlie chief fort in dismay, having first fixed a slow-match to the great magazine (containing 500 barrels of powder and an immense quantity of shot and shells). A terrible explosion followed, in which 52 Americans were killed, and Gen. Pike and 180 were wounded. Of the British garrison, 300 men were captured, and 149 were killed and wounded. Just after the capitulation Gen. Pike died, with the British fort-flag under hi.s head. The Americans burnt the public buildings, and carried off the supplies and artillery, and a frigate which was taken in the harbor. York was evacuated by the victors 4 days after the l)attle. 2 months afterward another naval attack was made, and 11 JBritish transports and 6 cannon were taken. The Royal Mail Steamers of the Canadian Navigation Co. leave Hamil- ton daily at 9 a. m. and Toronto at 2 P. M. They reach Port Hope at 6.50 p. M. ; Kingston at 5. 30 a. m. ; Gananoque at 7 A. M. ; Brockvilleat 9.30; Prescott at 10.30; Cornwall at 1.20 P. M. ; and Montreal at 6.45 P. M. State-rooms should be secured as eai'ly as possible, and travellers should he awakened on leaving Kingston in order to see the Thousand Islands. The Scarboro' Highlands are passed on the N., as the steamer leaves Toronto, and the first landing is at Darlington, a fine harbor and but little else, 2| M. S. of Bowmanville, from which there is railroad commu- nication to Port Perry, on the wide waters of Lake Sciigog. Steaming out again upon the lake, at about supper-time the boat reaches Port Hope {St. Lawrence Hall), a picturesque village of Durham County. It is chiefly located in a narrow valley which is overlooked by the hill of Fort Orton, and is surrounded by a good farming country. The population is 5,400; with 3 banks, 3 weekly papers, and 7 churches. There is a neat park of 14 acres at the E. end of the village, and on the hill near by is Trinity College (an academy of high grade). The port owns a large fleet of schooners, which are engaged in freighting lumber and grain. A daily steamer runs to Charlotte ( Rochester), N. Y. ; and trains on the Midland Railway run N. W. to Beaverton and Orillia (66 and 87 M.), thriving villages on Lake Simcoe, connecting with steamers for the ports on Lakes Simcoe, Muskoka, and Rousseau. The Midland Railway also runs N. to Lakefield (40 M. ), connecting there with steamers on the Salmon Trout, Buckhorn, Chemung, Pigeon, and Bald Lakes, "a chain of beautiful lakes stretching N. half-way to the Arctic Sea." Cobourg is 7 M. beyond Port Hope, and Is reached by late twilight. It is the capital of Northumberland and Durham Cos., and has 5,000 in- habitants, 7 churches, 2 banks, and 3 weekly papers. The buildings of Victoria College sive. in the N. environs; and the museum contains over 5,000 specimens, including a small Egyptian collection. It is a university (with 150 students) under control of the Wesleyan ChnroJi, and has a 192 Routers. KINGSTON. law school at Montreal and a medical college at Toronto. There are 9 acres of grounds, and instruction is given by 5 professors. Cobourg is iu the centre of a fertile farming country, and ships annually to the U. S. 30,000,000 ft. of lumber, 30,000 tons of iron ore, and 150,000 bushels of grain. There are daily steamers to Charlotte, N. Y. ; and a railway runs N. 13 M. to Harwood, on the many-islanded Rice Lake, whence steamers ply, on Rice and Marmora Lakes,, to Peterborough (tri-weekly; 30 M. N. W. ) and Bhxirton. After leaving Cobourg, the steamer passes well out into Lake Ontario, to avoid the great peninsular county of Princd* Edward, N. of which lies the Bay of Quinte. At early dawn Amherst Island is passed, and by daylight the broad harbor of Kingston is entered. Kingston {British AmeHca7i Hotel) is the chief city of Frontenac County, and is favorably situated at the confluence of the Cataracqiii and St. Law- rence Rivers, at the foot of Lake Ontario, and above the head of the Thousand Islands. It is a city of 13,000 inhabitants, with 12 churches, 2 small cathedrals, 2 daily papers, and numerous manufactories. The imports in 1871 were nearly $8,000,000, and the exports were $1,435,000. In the W. environs is the Queen's University^ a Presbyterian institution, with faculties of arts and theology; near which is the Collegiate Institute (incorporated in 1792). The Royal College of Physicians has 11 professors. The Catholic College of Regiopolis has attractive buildings, and the Black Nuns and Christian Brothers conduct large schools. 2 M. W. is the Pen- itentiary, a first-class prison with 5 - 600 convicts, who are so employed that the institution is nearly self-supporting. The Rockicood Lunatic Asylum (3-400 inmates) is a fine building pertaining to the Dominion Government, situated near the Penitentiary. Kingston ranks, as a fortress, next to Quebec and Halifax, its harbor being defended by strong batteries, the chief of which is Fort Henry, on Point Frederick (tlie Dominion Military School). The principal streets are Princess and King, and tlie City Hall is a fine building. The bay is very broad and deep, sheltered by Wolfe and Garden Islands ; and there are provisions for making here an extensive naval depot in time of war. At Kingston was built the I)owerful British fleet which played a bloodless and amusing (but costly) game of hide-and-seek with Chauncey's American squadron (see page 158). The city was founded by De Courcelles in 1672, and was subse- quently named Fort Frontenac. It was occupied by the British iu 1762, and became the capital of Upper Canada. The Grand Trunk Railway station is 2 M. N. of the city (carriages, 25c. : 50c. at night), and has a large restaurant where through passengers dine (20 min.; .'iOc). Ferry-steamers run to Garden Island 4 times daily, and to Capt Vincent, N. Y., where a connection is made with the Rome, W., and O. R. R. (see pa^ e 160). A railroad is being Imilt to Pembroke, 148 M. N. on the Ottawa River; and the Rideau Canal runs from Kingston to the city of Ottawa. THE THOUSAND ISLANDS. Route 2S. 193 Tlie Thousand Islands. " The Thousand Isles, the Thousand Isles, " A thousand birds their praises wake, Dimpled the wave aruund theui smiles, By rocky glade and plumy brake. Kissed by a thousand red-lipped flowers, A thousand cedars' fragrant shade Gemmed by a thousand emerald bowers. Falls where the Indians' children played." JiTst beyond Kingston commences that part of the St. La-wrence River ■which is called the Lake of the Thousand Islands. It extends for 40 M., with a ■width in some places of 7 M. ; and its surface is broken by over 1,800 islands and islets. These are of every shape and size, and are for the most part well covered "with foliage; while many of them are but rugged masses of rock. The scenery in autumn, when the foliage has turned into its brilliant dying colors, is gorgeous in the extreme. As the steamer passes through the nari'ow channels of the archipelago, constant kaleidoscopic changes ensue, and group after group of gem-like islets start into view, shift their relative positions, and are left astern, while new clus- ters open in advance. Descending rapidly with the current, the boat often passes within biscuit-toss of the islands, and then swings into wider chan- nels, with an open view on all sides. This region is celebrated for its fine facilities for hunting (wild fowl) and fishing. The boundary-line (of 1818) runs through the lake, leaving Howe and Wolfe Islands to Canada, and Carleton, Grindstone, and Wells Islands to the Republic. In the first 27 M. the lake decreases from 9 M. to 2 M. in width. At least three imposing martial processions have traversed these island-gemmed waters. In July, 1673, the Count de Froiitenac, Governor of Canada, led 2 gun- barges and 120 canoes from Montreal to Cataracqui (Kingston), with all the avail- able militia of the French colony. He was attended by the Abbe de F^nelon, who was a missionaiy to the Iroquois Indians from 1667 to 1674, and afterwards became Archbishop of Cambrai (France), preceptor of the prince royal, and author of the famous epic, " Lcs Aventures de Tdeniaque." In August, 1760, Lord Amherst led the Anglo-American army by this route to the Conquest of Canada. It consisted of 10,848 men, composed of the 44th, 46th, and 55th, and parts of the 60th, 77th, and 80th line regiments, with 600 grenadiers, 167 men of the Royal Artillery, 150 rangers, 706 Indians. 3 New York battalions, the 1st New Jersey Infantry, and several New England battalions. The forces were convoyed by the gunboats Onondaga and Mohawk. In November, 1813, Wilkinson's Amer- ican army passed down the lake in 300 vessels, having 6,000 men from 11 regi- ments, with the Rifles, Light Artillery, and Dragoons. Amherst Island is the most westerly of the group, and is well out in the lake (passed before reaching Kingston). It is an appanage of the Earl of Mountcashel, and contains over 5,000 acres of cultivated ground. On leaving Kingston, Fort Henry is seen on the 1., with the martello tower on Cedar Island; and Garden Island is farther S. The steamer soon enters Kingston Channel, a broad sound between Howe Island (N.) and Wolfe Island, a populous district covering 9,000 .acres, and provided with a steam-ferry to Kingston. S. of this (and 3 M. below Cape Vincent) is Carleton Island, which was fortified at an early date by the French. The British erected here a strong work called Fort Carleton about the time of the Revolution, and made the " King's Garden." The fort com- 9 M 194 Roiite^S. ALEXANDRIA BAY. mantled tlie S. clianiiel, and was partly cut in the rocky ledges, the stone being used for an escarpment. In 1775 it was held by a disciplined band of Moliawks, and in 1812 it was taken and destroyed by the Americans The island contains 1,274 acres, and has a lighthouse on the W. ; while on the S. are the ruins of the fort and the graves of the garrison. Grenadier Island, the rendezvous of Wilkinson's army in 1813, is now a dairy-farm. The Cape Vincent shores were settled by a group of notable families of French refugees, headed by the Count de Real, Napoleon's Chief of Police ; and this was to have been the home of Napoleon, if he had • succeeded in escaping from France after the battle of Waterloo. The steamer passes through the clusters of islets between Howe's Island and the mainland, and stops at Gananoque, a flourishing village with 5 churches and several factories. It is situated at the outlet of the Gananoque River, and is 2i M. from the Grand Trunk Railway. Many summer visitors re- main here; while others cross in the steam-ferry to the American village of Clayton (see page 159), an important lumber-station at the mouth of French Creek. Many vessels have been built at Clayton; and here the lumber which is brought by vessels from the upper lakes is made into rafts, and floated to Quebec. The fishing in this vicinity is very fine, including pike, black bass, and enormous maskinonge. Steamers ply between Cape Vincent, Clayton, and Alexandria Bay. Passing out from Gananoque, the steamer now enters an archipelago of small islets ex- tending to Wells Island. Alexandria Bay, a village of New York, S. of Wells Island, is the chief summer resort of the Thousand Islands. It has two fine hotels, — the * Thousand Islands House (600 guests), and the * (Jrossmun House (overlooking the lake and islands), with a large flotilla of pleasure-boats. *' The Church of the Thousand Isles" is a stone building with an Italian campanile, built by the efl'orts of Dr. Bethime. The islets near the Bay are ailorned with pleasant villas, in one of which (owned by Mr. Pullman, of palace-car fame) President Grant was enter- tained in the summer of 1873. The village is very small, and is built on a pile of gneiss-rocks by the river-side. The fishing among the islands is very good, and skilful boatmen are furnished if required. 7-10 M. S. E. are the romantic Lakes (Clear, Crystal, Mud, Butterfield, and Lake of the North) of Theresa, with good fishing, and shores and islands abound- ing in rare niinei'als. ALEXANDRIA BAY. Route 28. 194 a. The hamlet of Alexandria Bay has about 400 mhabitants, with Re- formed and Metliodist churches. It rose into prominence as a summer- resort about the year 1872, and in 1875 over 10,000 tourists sojourned here. In earlier years this locality was visited by \V. H. Seward, Silas Wright, Martin Van Buren, Preston King, Gen. Dick Taylor, and Frank Blair. The usual routes are by the Rome, Watertown and Ogdensburg R. R. to Cape Vincent, 30 1\I. distant, whence the steamer T. S. Faxton runs to the Bay twice daily, touching at Clayton. Another branch of the same railroad runs to Ogdensburg, whence daily steamboats pass to the Bay (36 M.). The Utica and Black River R. R. runs to Clayton, whence the steamer J. H. Kelly runs to the Bay (12 M.) ; and a branch of the same line runs N. to Morristown, passing Kedwood station, whence four- horse stages run to the Bay (7 M.), passing through Theresa. Visitors from the E., coming over the Central Vermont R. R., take the steamboat at Ogdensburg. The steamers of the Royal Mail line, running between Montreal and Toronto, touch at the Bay. The Crossmon House is pro- vided with gas and water, and accommodates 300 guests. There is a fruit and refreshment hall attached, with news-stand and ice-cream saloon. It is claimed that there are 1,000 islands within 6 M. of Alexandria Bay, varying in area from a few square yards to many acres. They are visited daily by a small steamboat, running as an express from the village, and carry passengers. Among the chief of the islets already occupied are Deer, Brown's, Summer Land, Long Branch, Cherry, Deshler, Florida, Plantagenet, Cuba, Arcadia, and Pullman's. There are more than a dozen varieties of trees, evergreen and deciduous, on these islets, affording a pleasant variety. It is claimed that Thomas Moore wrote a part of his famous "Canadian Boat-Song "on Hart's Island. Fiddler's Elbow is a remarkable and picturesque group of islets near the Canadian shore. The Devil's Oven derives its name from a small cavern into which boats may be rowed. Among the favorite grounds for fishing and hunting are Goose Bay, 3 M. below the village; Halstead's Bay, on the Canadian shore; and Eel Bay, at the end of Wells Island. Wells Island is opposite the vil- lage, and is 8 M. long, containing 4,000 acres, much of which is now un- der cultivation. It is divided into two parts, connected by a wooded isth- mus, and between these sections is a broad expanse of still water, cut off from the river by another large island. This sheet is called the Lake of the Island, and is 5 M. long by 1 M. wide, abounding in fish and game. 500 acres on Wells Island have been secured by the Thousand-Island Camp- Meeting Associations, for annual international meetings. The adja- cent promontories, on the New-York mainland, have also been occupied by villas and summer-estates. The usual mode of fishing is by trolling, though some still-fishing is done. The pickerel are caught at all times, but the muscalonge are taken in June and July, and the bass in late June, July, and August. Forty- 194 5. Routers. ALEXANDRIA BAY. pound muscalonge, twenty-pound bass, and six-pound pickerel have been caught in these waters. The seasons for shooting wild fowl are late spring and early fall, when ducks abound in this vicinity. Many visitors also amuse themselves by visiting the historic localities in the vicinity, guided by the skilful oarsmen of the village. " No Vestal Virgin guards their groves, No Cupid breathes of Cyprian loves, No satyr's form at eve is seen, No dryad peeps the trees between, • No Venus rises from their shore. No loved Adonis, red with gore, No pale Eiidymiou, wooed to sleep. No brave Leander breasts their deep, No Ganymede, no Pleiades, — Theirs are a New World's memories. ♦' The flag of France first o'er them hung. The mass was said, the vespers sung, The freres of Jesus hailed the strands. As blessed Virgin Mary's lands ; And red men mutely heard, surprised, Their heathen names all christianized. Next floated a banner with cross and crown, 'T was Freedom's eagle plucked it down, Retaining its pure and crimson dyes With the stars of their own, their native skies. " There St. Lawrence gentlest flows, There the south wind softest blows, There the lilies whitest bloom, There the birch hath leafiest gloom, There the red deer feed in spring, There doth glitter wood-duck's wing, There leap the muscalonge at morn. There the loon's night song is borne, There is the fisherman's paradise. With trolling skiff" at red sunrise. " The Thousand Isles, the Thousand Isles, Their charm from every care beguiles ; Titian alone hath grace to paint The triumph of their patron saint, W^hose waves return on memory's tide ; La Salle and Piquet side by side. Proud Frontenac and bold Champlain There act their wanderings o'er again ; And while their golden sunlight smiles. Pilgrims shall greet thee, Thousand Isles I " In July, 1813, the small American war-vessels Neptune and Fox captured a bri- gade of British batteaux off these shores. They were pursued into Cranberry Creek, and succeeded, after a sharp skirmish, in rei>ulsing the enemy with con- siderable loss. In Nov., 1813, the vanguard of Wilkinson's army was attacked by British gunboats near Bald Island (2 M. below the Bay). Some confusion was occasioned at first, but the assailants were soon put to flight. In June, 1814, a party of American naval officers and men suri^rised the British gunboat Black i>iial:e, near the Bay, and carried her by boarding. Frequent cruises were made mtiou;; the islands by the smaller vessels of Com. Chauncey's fleet, and by a Brit- ish liotilla composed of the Prince Regent, 10, Earl of Moira, 18, and Duke of BROCKVILLE. Route 2S. 1 95 Gloncester, 20. In 183S a band of insurgents under "William Johnson encamped on Abel's Island, and hoisted tiie flag of Free Canada. While the British passenger- steamer Sir Robert Peel was taking in wood at Wells Island, tliey boarded her, drove the passengers ashore, and set her on lire. She burned to the water's edge, at Peel Island. The band soon dispersed, and l)eavy rewards were offered by both governments for tlie capture of the authors of the outrage on the Peel. Johnson hid among the islands, and remained there for several months, frequently chang- ing his location to avoid his piu-suers. During all this time he was supplied with food by his daughter Kate, "the heroine of the Thousand Islands," a lovely girl only 18 years old, who rowed out alone by niglit to his secret haunts, and baffled all pursuit. Being finally captured near Ogdensburg, he was incarcerated in Albany jail, and his daughter cho.^e to remain 1here with him. After 6 months he escai)ed, and was pardoned by Fi-esident Hai-rison. Thereafter for several years he was keeper of the lighthouse on Rock Island, from whose lantern 70 islands are visible. Beyond Alexandria Bay Batliurst Island is passed, and then the lake widen.s between Yonge and the deeply indented shores of Hammond. Scores of rocky islets are seen on every side, in constantly changing groups. The hamlet of Oak Point is seen on the S., and then Brockville is reached. This is a village of 5,500 inhabitants, with 7 churches, and 2 weekly papers. It is built on a ridge rising from the river, and overlooks the islands. The annual shipments to the U. S. amount to 45,000,000 ft. of lumber, and 6,000 tons of hematite iron ore. The Grand Trunk Railway passes through the place, and the Brockville and Ottawa Railway runs N. to Perth, Renfrew, and Ottawa (73 M.). Near Brockville it trav- erses a tunnel 1,000 ft. long, cut in the solid rock. There are 2 small steamers kept in the harbor, with which frequent excursions are made among the islands, and to the St. Lawrence Park. A steam ferry-boat runs between Brockville and M orrisUnon (N. Y.) every half-hour. Mor- ristown is a quiet village 4-5 M. from Black Lake, an uninteresting sheet nearly 20 M. long. (The Utica & Black River R. R. ends here.) Off this point a fleet of small vessels was attacked by Canadian partisans in 1812, and 2 were captui-ed. Later in the war there was an indecisive cannonade of 3 hrs. duration here, between the American war-vessel Julia and the British EarlofMoira. In Feb., 1813, Capt. Forsyth and 200 men crossed to Brockville on the ice, and took 50 British prisoners, releasing also 52 Americans from cap- tivity. Below Brockville the Thousand Islands are left, and the steamer enters the open river (2 M. wide). Maitland, with its great deserted distillery, i.^ passed on the 1., and the port of Prescott (13 M. fi'om Brockville) is reached. Prescott {DanieVs Hotel) is a sombre stone-built village of 3,000 inhabitants, with 4 churches and 2 weekly papers. There is a con- siderable wharf -frontage, but the chief business is done by a great distil- lery and brewery. The dilapidated bastions of Fort Wellington are seen on the E., and farther down is the old windmill of 1838. The Grand Trunk Railway is nearly 1 M. from the village, and the St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railway (see Route 15) begins at the river-side. The river is 1 M. wide at this point, and opposite Prescott (steam-feny every 15 min. ; lOc) is the prosperous American city of Ogdensburg {Seymour House ; 19G R(mte28. OGDENSBURG. Woodman House). This city is at the confluence of the St. La^vrence and Oswegatchic Rivers, and is regularly laid out and handsomely built, its streets being so completely lined with trees as to have won for it the name of "The Maple City." The U. S. Post-Offi.ce occupies a new and elegant buildhig (with a high dome), which cost $300,000. On the W. of the Oswegatchic, and near the site of Fort Presentation, is the great St. Jean Ba}>tiste Cliurch. Tliere are nearly 2 M. of wharves along the Avater- front, terminated on the E. by an immense grain-elevator. 10,000,000 bushels of Western grain pass this point yearly, en route to New England. The city has peculiar commercial advantages from being at the foot of sloop navigation on the great lakes; and connections are formed with Central N. Y. and New England by efficient railroads. Extensive flour and lumber mills are located here. The population is over 12,000. "30 Sept., 1748. The Abbe Piquet departs from Quebec for Fort Fron ten ac. He is to look in the neighborhood of that fort for a location best adajited for a village for the Iroquois of the Five Nations, who propose to embrace Christian- ity." {Paris Doc, X.) He chose the present site of Ogdensburg for his settle- ment, and built a stone house and a 5-gun fort, which he named La Presentation, in a situation " Avhere a beautiful town could hereafter be built." In 1749 the settlement was destroyed by hostile Mohawks, but was speedily reoccupied and garrisoned. Piquet erected a 4-towered fort, with 18 cannon, under whose pro- tection clustered 5 Indian villages, with 3,000 inhabitants. " Peojde saw with astonishment several villages start up all at once ; a convenient, habitable, and pleasantly situated fort ; vast clearances covered almost at the same time with the tinest maize. More than 500 families, still all infidels, who congregated there, soon rendered this settlement the most beautiful, the most charming, and the most abundant of tlie colony." (Lettres Curieuses et Edijlantes.) In 1754 - 58 "these new children of God, of the King, and of M. Piquet," fought valiantly under the Abbe's connnand at tlie battles on Lake George and at Fort Duquesne (Pitts- burgh). Duquesne said "the Abbe Picquet is worths regiments"; and Mont- calm called him "tlie patriarcli of the Five Nations." Hocquart and others speak of him as " the Apostle of the Iroquois" ; while the Anglo-Americans pre- ferred the title, "the Jesuit of the West." He was an Abbe of the order of St. Sulpice, a Doctor of the Sorbonne, and King's Missionary and Prefect Apostolic to Canada. After the Conquest of Canada in 1700, he led 25 Frenchmen in an ad- venturous flight up the unexplored great lakes, thence descending the Mississippi to New Orleans. He was received with great pomp at Rome, and became Canon of Bourg (France), residing at the Abbey of dnny until his death, in 1781. The Indian settlement dwindled away until early in the present century, when it was broken up. La Presentation was gan-isoned by 3 royal regiments in 1776, and an American attack was repulsed in 1779. It was held by the British "to protect the fur- trade," until 1796, when it was given up under Jay's Treaty. In Oct., 1812, a British attack on the place Avas repulsed, and one gunboat was sunk ; but in Feb., 1813, the Glengary Light Infantry crossed fi-om Prescott on the ice, and after losing 56 men, drove out the militia, and carried off 11 cannon and a large amount of stores. The village was incorporated in 1817, and was named for Samuel Ogden, its proprietor. In Nov., 1838, a large number of adventurous men congregated here, under the command of one Von Schnltz (a Polish leiugee), and fortified themselves in a stone windmill on the river-bank 1 M. below Prescott. The ob- ject was to furnish a centre and rallying-point for the discontented Canadians, and to precipitate a general revolt throughout the provinces. The British regu- lars and loyal militia soon attacked the invaders by cannonade, but the massive walls of the windmill were proof against field-artillery, and an assault Avas or- dei-ed. The storming party was repulsed with heavy loss by the 180 men in the mill, and then regular siege operations were begun, Avhile retreat by the river was cut off by gunboats. In a few days the starving rebels surrendered, and Von PRESCOTT. Routers. 197 Schultze and 9 men were hung, while 60 more were transported to Van Dieman's Land ; 56 were pardoned ; 18 were released, and others died of tlieir wounds. It was the last act o( the so-called Patriot War. Prescott is 221 M. from Toionto and 112 M. from Montreal, by the Grand Trunk Railway ; and o4 M. from Ottawa, by Route 15. Besides being a regular station of the Royal Mail steamers, it is visited daily by boats irom and fur other ri\f r- ports. Ogdensljurg is 118 M. from Rouse's Point, by the i). & L. C. R. R (Route 14); and 142 M. from Rome and 129 M. from Oswego, by the R., W. & O. R. R. (Route 25). Steamers leave for various river-iior.s daily. The propellers of the Northern Traiispoitation Co. leave daily at Tp. m. for the Western Lakes. The tour of the lakes by this line costs but little, and is often undertaken by travellers whose time is not much limited. There is but slight danger of rough water (except occasionally for a few hours on Lake Erie), and the boats remain several hours in each of the lake-ports, giving ample time for visit- ing their principal attractions. The times, ports, and fares fiom v-gfle isburg (including state-rooms and meals for first-class passengers) ate, — at Brockville, Can., at 2.15 p. m., 1st day, remaining 15 min. ; at Alexandria Bay, N. Y. (•'J 1.50), 5 p. M., 15 min. ; at Clayton, N. Y. (.-5 2), at 6.45 p. M.,'l5 min. ; at Cape Vincen , N. Y. (^2.50), at 10 p. Ji., 30 min. ; at Oswego, N. Y. (§S), at 4.:{0 a. m., 2d day, 5 hours ; at Port Dalhousie, Can. (86), at 3 a. M., 3d day. 1 hr. ; at St. Catharine's, Can. (^6.50), at 7 a. m. The propeller now enters the locks of the Welland Canal, and takes 9 hrs. to go to Thorold, 2 M. distant. Carriages are in waiting to con- vey passengers to Niagara Falls, 8-9 M. distant (^ 1 each for parties of 4 or more to go and return). 4 hrs. are allowed at the Falls, the carriages return over the Lundy's Lane battle-field, and the boat is boarded at Thorold. Leaving Thorold at4. lOp. M., PortColborne, attheS. end of the canal, is reached at 7 p. m. Cleveland, Ohio (fare from Ogdensburg, $ 10), is entered at 9 a. m., the 4th day, and the boat remains tlMjre 4 hrs. At Detroit. Mich. (•■^10), 3 a. m., 5th day, remaining 2-H hrs. ; at Port Huron, 5. p. M. ; at Duncan City, 10 a. m., 6th day ; at Glen Haven, Mich. ($15), at 6 p. m., 6th day ; at Milwaukee, Wis., at 9 a. m', 7th day (remain- ing 4 hrs.); and at Chicago, III. (.$15). at 8 p. m., on the 7th day. Tile 2d-clas8 fares (separate cabin) are ^ the above rates, but provisions are not fumished. As Llie Koyal Mail Steamer passes uut from Pre.scott, the St. Jean Bap- tists Church, the Post-Ofhce dome, and the railway grain-elevator are seen conspicuou.sly in Ogdensburg. Fort Wellington is on the 1., and the historic Windmill Point is soon passed. About 3 M. below Prescott (Jhimney fslcmd is seen. This was anciently called Oraconenton by the Indians, and was named Isle Royale by the French, who built upon it Fort Levis, mounting 35 cannon. In 1760 it was invested by Amherst's army of 10,000 men and was assailed by his fleet. After 5 days of bom- bardment, the fortress surrendered, about 100 men having fallen on both sides. The island was a rendezvous for the Indian bands who harried N. Y. during the Revolution; but it has long been deserted, and its sturdy ruins have given it the name of Chimney Island. To the S. on the N. Y. shore is Indian Point, where the Oswegatchie Indians dwelt; and where the Count de Frontenac encamped with his forces in 1673, when he sent Fenelon on a mission to the Iroquois. On the N. Y. shore is Red Mills, a village of Lisbon town, and off Point Cardinal (on the N.) the first rapid is entered {Gallnpes Rapids). The channel next leads between Point Iro- quois (N.) and Ogden Island. The Rapide de Plat is then descended, and the steamer passes the Canadian village of Morrisburgh, from which a ferry-boat runs frequently to Waddington, N. Y. 30 M. below Ogdens- burgh is Louisville, N. Y., where the American steamers stop. Stages 198 Route 28. LONG SAULT RAPIDS. nin from this point to Massena Springs (7 M.), wliich are also reached by stage from Brasher Falls (10 M.) or Potsdam Jimction (14 M,), on Route 14. (See page 128.) A short distance below Gooseneck Island (and an the N. shore) is Chrysler's Farm, where an American army of 0,000 men was attacked, Nov. 11, 1813, by a British force. The Americans were commanded by tlie imompctent Wilkinson, and had descen(U'(l the river from Lake Ontario to attiuk Montreal. After losing 330 men in the tiglit (Uritish loss, 19G), Wilkinson retreated, i^ave np the advance, and retired to winter-fpiarters at French Mills (Fort Covington), where terrible losses Avere occasioned by sickness and lack of supplies. Tlie winter-encampment cost the Republic -S 800,000, and was followi'f this expedition was attributed to the failure of Gen. Wade Hampton (of S. Carolina) to bring up his division of the army in time. The steamer next passes Farran's Point, and stops at Dickinson's Landing (N. shore). At this point begin the Long Sault Eapids, wliich are 9 M. long, with a fall of over 48 ft., and are divided by a chain of islands into the S. Channel (the usual rotite) and the N. Channel (formerly called the Lost Channel, from a belief that it led to inevitable destruction). The rapids are not continuous, and reaches of level water alternate with white and billowy inclines. The passage of a lumber-raft down these wild waters affords an exciting spectacle, and calls forth great skill and activity on the part of its crew. Boats ascend this incline by means of the Cornwall Canal (N. shore), which is 11 M. long. In 1603, " in a skiff with a few Indians, Cham]ilain essayed to pass these rapids, but all efforts ]iroved vain against the foaming surges, and he was forced to re- turn." The first steamV)oat to descend was guided by an Indian (in 1840), and Indians are still frequently used as pilots. No fatal accident has ever liajipened to steamers in the rapids, as great power is applied to the steering apparatus and a strong gang of men manoeuvres it. At the foot of the rapids is Cornwall ( Dominion Hotel), a large village which was settled by American loyalists and disbanded Hessians after the Revolution. It has 2,500 inhabitants and 5 churches, and runs several cotton-mills with the rapids' water-power. The Grand Trunk station is 1 M. N., and 3 lines of steamers stop at the port. A ferry-boat also runs to St. Regis, a large Indian village on the S. shore. The Sachem Monoco, with 400 warriors, attacked Groton, Mass., in 1676 (see Osgood's New England, page 105), and carried away to Canada (among other cap- tives) 2 young children of the Tarbell family. Having been brought up in Indian ways, in due time they married squaws ; but being radical in their ideas, they were forced to leave the tribal village. Going forth with their families, they founded a new home on the St. Lawrence. Hither came Father Gordon in the year of the Conquest (1760), leading a colony of Christian Mohawks ; and he named the new village and the river near it St. Regis, in honor of a canonized Jesuit missionary to the poor (bom in Languedoc in 1597). The St. Regis Chief Louis (V)orn at Saratoga in 1740, wounded at the Battle of Lake George in 1756, and a combatant at the defeats of Braddock and Abercrombie) visited Washington at Cambridge in Aug., 1775, and received from him a silver pipe inscribed " G. W." In Jan., 1776, he led a party of warriors to Cambridge, and was commissioned colonel in the Continental army. He rendered valuable service in the Revolution and the War of 1812, and was buried at Buffalo, with military honors, in 1814. Oct. 12, 1812, the Troy militia surprised and captured at St. Regis. a company of British LACHINE RAPIDS. Route 28. 199 regulars, and were soon afterward captured themselves, and exchanged for their whilom prisoners. In 1826 an envoy from St. Regis visited Rome, and was pre- sented by the Pope with some rich silver plate and jewels for the church (all of which were afterwards stolen in N. Y. City) ; while Charles X. of France gave him 2 costly paintings (St. Regis preaching, and St. Francis Xavier with St. Louis), which are now in the church. In 1848 a Methodist church was estab- lished, as the fruit of a revival. Since the War of 1812 the tribe has been divided into the British and the American parties. The national boiuidarj--line passes through the village, and the Indians receive annuities from both governments (by ancestry, and not with regard to location). The reservation includes 22 square M., and is mostly held in common, the people living by hunting and fishing, ami by making moccasons, baskets, and bead-work. The village is strikingly dirty, and abounds in puppies and children (the population is increasing). The Cath- olic Church is a venerable structure, with walls 4 ft. thick, and an interior well adorned, and containing the royal paintings. The preaching is in Mohawk, and the festival of Corpus Christi is observed with great pomp. Ilogansburg (small inn) is a. hamlet 2 M. distant, on the St. Regis River, in whose churchyanl the Rev. Eleazer Williams was buried, after serving here for several years as an Episcopal missionary. There was a mystery as to the fate of the son of Louis XVI. of France, and numerous physical and other coincidences indicated that Williams was the prince. A book ('' The Lost Prince") was published about him ; and great excitement was caused by the popular question, " Have we a Bourbon among us ? " Below St. Regis both shores are Canadian, and the river expands into Lake St. Francis (5J M. ^vide, and 25 M. long), which is dotted with islets. On the N. shore is Lancaster; and at the outlet is the sombre French village of Coteau du Lac, at the head of 11 M. of rapids (83 ft. fall), called the Cotean and the Cedar Rapids and the Cascades. At the foot of these rapids is the village of Beauharnois, where vessels enter the Beauhamois Canal (S. shore; 11 M. long, with 9 locks). Opposite thi.s point is the mouth of the Ottawa River and the Jsle Perrot, where Am- herst encamped in 1760, after losing 64 boats and 88 men in the Cedar Rapids. Here the steamer enters Lake St. Louis (12 x 5 M.), with St. Clair on the N. shore, and the high and peculiar Nuns' Island (an appa- nage of the Gray Nunnery at Montreal) on the r., 5 M. below Beauhar- nois. Near the Nuns' Island, on the S., is ChateaugaT/, at the mouth of the Chateaugay River, where De Salaherry, Seigneur of Chambly, defeat- ed, with a small force, the incompetent American Gen. Wade Hampton (Oct., 1813), and his fine army. The steamer next reaches Lachine, oppo- site which is the populous Indian village of Caugknawaga, inhabited'by the orderly and indolent descendants of the Six Nations. During the Rebellion of 1837, a body of armed insurgents surrounded the villagers at service in the church ; but the chief and his people fell upon the rebels, disarmed and bound them, and sent them to Montreal. In the church hangs the celebrated bell of Deerfield. This boll was bought (in France) for the church late in tlie 17th century, and was in a vessel which was captured by a Massachusetts cruiser. It was hung in the Puritan church at Deerfield, Mass. ; and the Indians, knowing the fact, attacked the place in 1704, killed 47 of the people, and carried ISO into captivity. The victorious crusaders carried the bell on poles through tlie forest to the site of Burlington, Vt., where they buried it. The following year priest and people went forth and brought the bell in triumph to Caughnawaga, first cleansin.L,' it by solemn rites from its Puritan contaminations. The *L,achlne Kapids are now entered. "Suddenly a scene of wild confu- sion bursts upon the eye ; waves are lashed into spray and into breakers of a 200 Route 29. AUBURN. thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they are dashed against ir. tho headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a storm-lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, — all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. Now passing with lightning-speed within a few yards of rocks which, did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute i)recipicc of waters ; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam like a bird, and a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruffled bosom of 'below the rapids.'" The steamer now passes under the * Victoria Bridge, and moves up to the pier at Montreal (page 121). 29. Syracuse to Rochester. By the Auburn Division (OM Road) of the N. Y. Central and H. R. R. R. Sta- tions, Syracuse ; Camillus, 8 M. ; Marcellus, 10 ; Skaneateles, 17 ; Auburn, 25; Cayuga, 36; Seneca Falls. 41; Waterloo, 44; Geneva, 51 ; Phelps, 59; Cliftoa Springs, 63 ; Canandaigua, 74 ; Farmington, 80 ; Pittsford, 94 ; Rochester, 102. Tlie train soon enters the rolling limestone highlands of Camillus, and passes the stations of Camillus, Fairmount, Marcellus, Halfway, and Skaneateles Junction. From the latter a branch track runs 5 M. S. to Mottville and Skaneateles [Packiaood House), a brisk village much visited in summer, and situated at the foot of the lake of the same name (meaning "beautiful squaw"). * Skaneateles Lake is the most picturesque of the lakes of Central N. Y., and is 16 M. long, with a width of 1 M. It is 860 ft. above the sea, and its S. half is bordered by lofty hills 1,200 ft. above the waters, Avhich take a deep-blue tint between these abrupt shadowing ridges. The village of Glen Haven is a quiet summer resort under the hills near the S. end of the lake, and a small steamer runs irregularly along its waters. 8-10 M. S. E. of Skaneateles is the hamlet of Amber, at the foot of the romantic and sequestered Otisco Lake, which is 4 M. long, and lies in a deep valley bordered by hills 1,700 ft. high. The lake is 772 ft. above the sea. The main line passes Sennett and then enters Auburn {St. James Hotel, $ 3, Genesee St. ; Osborne Home, State St., near the station. Horse-cars on E. Genesee St. from Exchange St. to Seward Ave. ; also on State, Franklin, and Genesee Sts. Reading-room, Y. M. C. A., 12 North St. Amusements at Academy of Music, North St. ). Auburn, the capital of Cayuga County, is situated in a fertile farming country, and is on the Owasco Outlet, which furnishes water-power for its numerous factories. It is one of the handsomest of the minor cities of N. Y., and is famous for its public institutions. There are 17,225 inhabitants, with 5 banks, 17 churches, and 2 daily and 4 weekly papers. The Auburn Sta*e Prison was established in 1816, and covers 18 acres of land. The main building is 387 ft. long, and is connected with the prison-shops, where the convicts work" for contractors. The average number of convicts is 950, and in 1870 the expense of the prison was $ 167,000, its earnings amounting to OWASCO LAKE. Route 29. 201 $ 132,000. The premises are near the R. R. station, and are enclosed by a stone wall 80 ft. high. A(l.i dning the prison is the Asylum for Insane Convicts, with extensive stoue buildings. On Genesee St. (tlie principal street of Anbnrn) is the Court House of CajT^iga Conuty, a fine stone building surmounted by a dome which is surrounded with Ionic columns. Fort St. leads to the pretty cemetery on Fort Hill (an ancient Indian moinid), whose most interesting point is the grave of Sewai'd. The costly and elegant churches of St. Peter (Episco- pal) and St. Mary (Catholic) are at tills end of the city, and the imposing First Presbyterian Church is on North St., near the quaint little City Hall and the spacious Church of the Holy Family. The Presbyterian Theological Seminary is situated in the N. E. part of the city, and occu- pies a large stone structure of 16G ft. frontage, N. of which is a new and costly library building. This school was founded in 1820, and is of high repute among tlie Presbyterians. It has 5 professors, 40 stixdents, and a library of 4,000 volumes. The Orphan Asylum is on Wall St., and the State has just completed a large armory on State St. South St. is lined with fine mansions, among which is the old Seward home (near Genesee St. ). William Henry Seward (born at Florida, N. Y. , May 16, 1801) was for nearly 50 years a resident of Auburn. He graduated at Union College in 1820, and soon gained a high rei)utation as a criminal lawyer. Favoring internal iiui)rovements and secular education, he was made Gov. of N. Y. in 1838 and 1840, and was a U. S. Senator from 1849 to 1861. He opposed the Native- American party, and was a chief founder of the Republican party, holding that "the antagonism be- tween freedom and slavery is an irrepressible conflict between opposing and en- during forces." He would doubtless have been the President of the U. S. in 1861 - 65, but for the hostility of Horace Greeley, who worked against him in the Republican convention. He was Secretary of State throughout the perilous years of the Great Rebellion, and by his bold and skilful diplomacy Mexico was deliv- ered from French occupation, and threatened foreign intei-ventions in behalf of the insurgent American States were averted. In 1865 he was attacked at his house by an assassin, who inflicted upon him several terrible wounds. Mr. Seward was Secretary of State under President Johnson, and fearlessly sustained the Executive's reconstruction policy against the sentiment of the whole country. After 1869 he made a long triumphal journey around the world, V)y way of Cali- fornia, India, Fvgypt, and France; and in 1872 (Oct. 10) he died, at the Seward mansion, in Auburn. Owasco Lake is 2| M. S. of Auburn, and is much visited in summer (stages from the city). It is possible that the steamboat service between Owasco and Moravia will be resumed in the summer of 1876. The lake is 758 ft. above the sea, and is bordered by bold bluff's and in part by the rich savannas known as the Owasco Flats. The lake is 11 M. long and less than 1 M. wide, and extends S. from the hamlet of Owasco (Benning- ton House) to the prosperous village of Moravia (Skidmore House), near the Mill Brook Falls and the Dry Falls, whose cascade is invisible in summer. The rural town of Scipio is on the W. .shore of the lake, and is much frequented by summer boarders. The Southern Central R. R. lies along the W. shore. From Auburn the train runs W. 10 M. to Cayicgaj whence steamers and a railway run S. upon and alongside of 202 Route 20. CLIFTON SPRINGS. Cayuga Lake (see page 207). As the train crosses the loug bridge over the outlet the lake is seen on the 1, Station, Soneca Falls {Hoag's Hotel, $ 2.50), a factory village at the Falls (51 ft.) of the Seneca River. There are here nearly 6,000 inhabitants, 2 papers, 2 banks, 6 churches, and large manufactories of steam fire-engines, AvooUens, iron, yeast, and piimps. To the N. is Tyre, whose surface is divided between long drift- ridges and the low Montezuma Marshes. Seneca Falls is the scene of Bayard Taylor's novel of "Hannah Thui-ston"; and here Mrs. Ameli^ Bloomer began the so-called reform in feminine apparel which has since borne her name. Station, Waterloo ( Toioslcy Jlou^e), a prosperous manu- facturing village with 4,000 inhabitants, 7 churches (2 of which are very attractive), and 2 banks. The Court House of Seneca County is a hand- some building; and Waterloo is further noted for its shawls and farming- machinery. 6 M. beyond the train passes along the foot of Seneca Lake, and stops at Geneva (see Route 31). Tlie train runs now N. W. to Clif- ton Springs {Foster House, $S a day; * Clifton Springs JSanitariu7)i). The copious sulphur springs in this vicinity have attained much celebrity as remedial agents in cases of bilious and cutaneous disorders. The prin- cipal ingredients are the sulphates of lime, magnesia, and soda, the carbo- nates of lime and magnesia, and the chlorides of sodium, calcium, and magnesium. The waters began to be used in 1806; and since 1850 Clifton has become the foremost resort on the Central Railroad. The Sanitarium is conducted by its founder. Dr. Henry Foster, on a unique plan. It is maintained that spiritual legeneratiou should precede physical rehabilita- tion ; and that the restoration of the soul to harmony witli God and a placid and restful faith will powerfully aid in the work of restoring the body to its normal health. After leaving Clifton Springs the train runs W. across Manchester. In this town Joe Smith claimed to have found the golden plates, on which, in an unknown language, were inscribed the writings of the Hebrew prophet Mor- mon. It was asserted that Mormon (under Divine command) had written an abridgment of the sacred history and prophecies, the advent of the gospel among the Jews, and the final ruin of that nation. Mormon left his records to be con- cealed by his sou Moroni, who buried them in " the hill of Cumorah," where Smith afterwards found them. At Shortsville the train turns S. and soon reaches Canandaigua {CoAiandaigua Hotel, large and commodious, $2.50; Webster House), a pleasant village of nearly 5,000 inliabitants, with 7 churches, 2 papers, a bank, and 2 academies. There are 2 orphan asylums ; and Brighani Hall (1 M. W. ) is a private insane asylum for 70 patients. In the old court house is the Wood Library and Museum. The Court House of Ontario County is situated on a hill near and N. of the R. R., and is adorned with an Ionic portico and a graceful dome, on which is a statue of Tliemis. In one of the court-rooms are 26 portraits of tlie chief pio- CANANDAIGUA. Route 30. 203 neers of Ontario County. The broad main street of the village runs N. by embowered mansions and iine churches, and on the S. it runs to the shore of Canandaigua Lake, nearly 1 M. from the Court House. Steamers leave the village several times daily and run down the lake to Woodville (16 M. ; fare, 75c.), touching at Seneca Point, the seat of the summer hotel called the Lake House. Tlie bluffs here are 3 - 400 ft. above the water, and overhang pleasant glens. Stages run from Woodville to Naples (4 M.), a busy village in a hilly country which is studded with vineyards. E. of Naples are Italy and Jerusalem ; and S. W. is Blood's Station, on the Erie Railway. Canandaigua Lake is 16 M. long, and 663 ft. above the sea. There are 2,000 vineyards around its borders. , The S. shores are lofty and bold, and many summer visitors are .attracted here by the (^uiet beauty of the scenery. Canandaigua is the N. terminus of the Northern Central R. R, which runs S. to Ehnira (69 M.), Ilarrisburgh (240 M.), and Baltimore (325 M.). Running out from Canandaigua to the N. W. the Rochester train passes W. Farmington and Victor, which is on the site of the Iroquois village of Gannagaro, destroyed by French troops under the Marquis de Nonville. The line then traverses Pittsford and the garden-like plains of Brighton, and enters Rochester (see page 171). Canandaigua to Buffalo and Niagara. By the Tonawanda, Batavia, and Canandaigua Div. of the N. Y. Central R. R., and the Buffalo and Suspension Bridge Div. To Butfalo, S6 M. ; to Niagara, 91 M. The Vine runs W. across an open farming country. Stations, E. Bloonifield (| M. from the village), W. Bloonifield (1^ M. N. of the village), and Honeoye Falls, a brisk factory town on Honeoye Creek. Beyond W. Rush the line crosses the Roches- ter Div. of the Erie Railway, the Genesee River, and the Genesee Valley Canal. At Caledonia the Attica Div. of the Erie Railway is approached, and it runs parallel with the present route to Batavia (17 M.). Station, L.e Roy {Eagle, Hotel), a vil- lage on Oatka Creek, and the seat of Ingham University, a school for young ladies, with 14 instructors and 186 students. The Staunton Conservatory is a massive stone building in wliich are kept numerous cabinets of minerals and S. American curiosities, together with a gallery of paintings (mostly by Staunton). Stations, Stafford, Batavia (see page 175), E. Pembroke, Richville" (S. of the Tonawanda Reservation). Akron, Clarence, and Getzville ; beyond which the train reaches Tonawanda, where connections are made for Buffalo or Niagara. 30. Cayuga Lake and Ithaca. Ithaca is reached from New York by the Erie Railway to Owego (236 M.), and thence by the Cayuga Div. of the D. L. and W. R. R. (34* M. ). Trains run N. E. from Ithaca to Cortland, connecting with a railroad to Syracuse ; and a new line runs from Ithaca N. W. across Seneca County to Geneva (40 M.). The N. Y. Central R. R. (Old Road) touches Cayuga I^ake on the N. ; and the best route from Philadelphia is by the N. Penn., Lehigh Valley, and Ithaca and Athens R. Rs. The Cayuga I^ake R. R. runs N. from Ithaca, along the E. shore. Stations, Ithaca; Norton's, 6 M. ; Taughkanuock, 11; Lake Ridge, 13; Atwater's, 16; King's Ferry, 18 ; Willett's, 22 ; Aurora, 25 ; Levanna, 28 ; Union Springs, 32 ; Cayuga, 38. 204 Route 30. ITHACA. Steatmrs leave Ithaca at 7 a. m. and 1 p. m. ; and. retiirninpf, leave Cam^-n, at 8 and 2. They stop at Norton's, Tanghkannock, Tiumansburgh, Lake Ridge, At- water's, Kidder's Ferry, Shelldrake Point, Aurora, Levanua, and Union Springs . Ithaca (* Ithaca Hotel; Clinton Home) is a village of nearly 1?,000 in- habitants, situated on level lands near the head of Cayuga Lake. The streets are abundantly shaded by trees ; and De Witt Park, near the centre of the village, is a pleasant square of trees and laAvns. In this vicinity (on Tioga St.) is the Cornell Library, in a spacious building, wliich also contains the Post-Ofiice, lecture-liall, and De-Witt Guards' armory. The library has over 12,000 volumes, and is free, being much patronized by the people of Ithaca. The scenery in the vicinity of Ithaca is of the highest order of beauty ; and it is said that there are 150 cas- cades and Avaterfalls within ten miles. The * Ithaca Gorge is less than 1 M. from the village, and is entered from the iron bridge at the N. end of Aurora St., by turning to the r. by a nistic lodge. Refreshments may be obtained here, and 25c. is paid for entering the Gorge. The path has been made for the most part by cut- ting and blasting out a way in the side of the cliffs, and iron railings protect the more dangerous points. This ravine contaiiis more waterfalls than are found in any similar space in the State, and Fall Creek descends here 400 ft. in 1 M. Numerous fine view-points may be found by short divergences to the r. of the path. The first fall is the celebrated * Ithaca Fall, where the creek (150 ft. wide) i)lunges dowai IGO ft. into a deep broad basin. A fine view is gained from the Point of Rocks, Avhence the path ascends a rock stairway cut in the clifFside to the Plateau, a broad moss-covered shelf at the top of the Fall, with pine-trees forming a slielter. Promontory Point, 40 ft. above the Plateau, and on the open cliff, is next reached, and affords a rich vieAV over the broad valley and the village. From this point a workman once fell to the Basin, 200 ft. below, and escaped without broken bones. A rock stairway now leads up to Cliff Rock, wdiich gives another fine valley-view. The lofty cliffs which line the gorge are followed by a path far above the stream, until a shady pine grove is passed, and the pleasant Moss Level is reached, over the bright Forest Fall. Between the Ithaca and Forest Falls, a singular tunnel entrance is seen in the base of the opposite cliffs. This tunnel is cut through the solid rock, 200 ft. long, and 15 ft. wide and high, and is used to carry water to the mills in Fall Creek village. The work was done by young Ezra Cornell, in 1830. The Spray Path leads down from Moss Level to the Inferno, at the base of the Forest Fall. Just above the Moss Level the path reaches the Foaming Fall, a sheer plunge of 30 ft., with lofty cliffs beyond. Rocky Fall (55 ft.) is a little way farther ot), and some of its surplus w^ater runs a turbine-wheel which pumps w^ water to the top floors of the University bxiildings, on the S. bank. The ITHACA. Route 30. 205 work is accoinplislied by an endless wire cable and a gang of pumps. Passing now along the Sylvan Stieam path, the Coliseum is reached, a wide curve of the bare clitfs on N. and S., in whose centre is a deep clelt through which the resounding Triphammer Falls plunge down uito a dark basin. The S. clilf is now ascended, by a spiral wooden staircase of 68 steps, to the picnic resort called Triphanimer Grove. From this point the path descends to the stream at the roaring Flume Falls, just above which is the Beebe Dam. Tlie path continues up the goige for \ M. farther to the factory village of Free Hollow. Many persons prefer to cross the bridge over Flume Falls, and ascend to the University buildings by a path up the S. bank. Tlie * Cornell University is located on the heights E. of Ithaca, and 400 ft. above Cayuga Lake. The buildings form the widely detached sides of a quadrangle embracing the sharply outlined plateau between the deep gorges of the Fall and Cascadilla Creeks, and the estate covers over 200 acres. McGraw Hall is the most conspicuous of the buildings, and occu- pies the centre of the line facing Ithaca. It is built of dark blue stone from the University grounds, and is 200 ft. long and 60 ft. widt;, with a campanile tower rising from the centre, 120 ft. high. This edifice con- tains several lecture-rooms, an anatomical theatre, the museums, and the library, Avhile in the central i)art are two halls, each 100 X 56 ft. The building is divided into lire-proof sections, and is elegantly finished within. -The tower contains the Great Bell of the University (5,000 pounds), and a chime of 9 smaller bells, while the * view from the summit is of great beauty, including Ithaca and its fair valley and nearly two thirds of Cayuga Lake. The N. and S. Buildings are on either side of McGraw Hall, and each of them is loo X 55 ft., 4 stones high, and built of Itliaca stone. They are occupied for lecture-rooms and dormitories. The Sibley College of tlie Meclumic Arts is a large stone building on the N. of the quadrangle, and contains a foundry, drav/ing-rooms, mechanical and botanical museums, etc. Tlie laboratories and the farm-house and barns of the College of Agriculture are on the E., and on the S. is the Sage Chapel, in the old English Gothic style. Beyond the chapel is the im- posing building of the * Sage College, which is the home of the lady students of the University. It is in the Italian Gothic style, with a lofty central tower, and is quadrangular in form, with a frontage of 168 ft. Henry W. Sage, of Brooklyn, gave $ 150,000 toward this building, which was erected in 1872 - 73. Cascadilla Place is a college hall situated above the high cliffs over Ithaca. The University Road (admirably built) rvuis thence to the main campus (^ M.), crossing the gorge of the Cascadilla by a bridge 70 ft. high. In the adjacent glen a pleasure-ground and ramble has been made. Cascadilla Place is of blue and white stone, 4 stories high, and 195 x 100 ft. in size. 206 Route 30. TAUGHKANXOCK FALLS. The Cornell University was founded in 1S65 l)y Ezra Cornell, who endowed it with §500,000. New York's share ut the imblic lands given by Congress for the benefit of agriculture and the mechanio arls was given to this institution, and l)art of it was sold. 400,000 acres in the best States of the West still pertain to the Univei-sity, and are valued at over .'? 1,500,000. There are 43 professors and assistants, and 600 students, some of whom are from distant countries (Bra:«il, J.ipan, Russia, etc.). Tiie library contains 3S- 40,000 volumes, including the Anthon Classical Library, the Bopp Uriontal Library, and tlie Goldwin Smith Library. The College Museum contains large and valuable collections (the Jcwett fossils,' tlie SiUiman Collection, and others). One student annually is admit- t;d from each N. Y. Assembly District, free of tuition, and students can defray all or a part of their expenses by manual labor in the college-shops or on tlie farm. Buttermilk Creek is two M. S. of Itliaca (by the Newfield road), and flows through a narrow glen whicli is famed for its beauty. The path is not good. Visitors with cariiages should send them around to meet them on the bridge above the ravine. Passing througli the Antechamber, the stream is followed by several cascades and tlnougli pleasant woodland scenery, to the * Pulpit Fall, near the tall Pulpit Rock. The Bridal Veil Fall is a broad tliin sheet of water descending over broken ledges, and the Cornell and Dell Cascades are small but graceful. At the Pulpit the S. bank of the ravnie is ascended, and soon afterward tlie path regains the level of the creek, where some caution is required. The clift's here compress tlie waters into narrow bounds, forming numerous pretty cas- cades. Soon after passing Steeple Rock, the upper road is reached at the bridge. Barnes's Glen is near the Buttermilk Ravine, and is nearly equal to it in beauty, having several lofty cascades. Lick Brook is reached by a rural lane diverging to the 1. from the New- lield road 3 M. S. of Ithaca. The First and Second Falls are soon passed, and the path leads along the S. bank for nearly ^ M. to the great amphi- theatre. Here the brook i)luiiges over a clilf 160 ft. liigh, forming a long misty cascade. The Enfiold Glen is 6 M. from Ithaca, by a far-viewing liill-road. It is entered near the Enfield Hotel, and the path soon leads to the foot of the * Fall, which is 160 ft. high. Great variety of water and cliff scenery is found in the ravine, and skilful pedestrians often trav- erse the lower glen for 2 M. , to the Inlet Valley. The glens of Newfield Creek and the West Branch are respectively 7 and 9 M. from Ithaca, and are much visited. N. of Ithaca by the E. lake road are McKinney's Glens (2| M.), Burdick's Glen (4 M. ; with paths leading to a waterfall 160 ft. high, interesting in high water), Luce's, Shurger's Glen (6 M. ; the upper fall is the finest), and the Ludlowville Falls and Ravine (7 M.). Six-Mile Creek, Spencer's Glen, and several other romantic ravines, are found near Ithaca. The * Taughkannock Falls are 10 M. from Ithaca, and may be reached by the lake-steamers, the Ithaca and Geneva R. R. (statioB | M. distant), or by a pleasant road leading along the shore of Cayuga Lake (or CAYUGA LAKE. Route 30. 207 by Jacksonville). The Taughkannock Hotel is favorably situated N. of the Fall, aud paths and stairways have been made throughout the glens. The Taughkannock Fall is 210 ft. in i>er])endicular height, and is ranked as the finest of the smaller falls of the Mids each way daily between Watkins and Geneva in summer, and 2 trips daily the rest of the year. They leave Watkins at G a. m. and 1.45 and 5.50 p. M. ; and return from. Geneva at 9.55 a. m. and 2.3^ and 5.20 p. m. In spring and autunui, from Watkins at 6 a. m. and 2 p. m. ; from Geneva at 9.25 a. m. and 3.15 p. m. Meals are served on board. Landings: Watkins; Big Stream? N. Hector ; Starkey ; Lodi ; Ovid ; Dresden ; Dey's ; and Geneva. The steam- yacht Henrietta leaves Waikins at 9 a. m., 2 and 3.35 p. M. for Glen Excelsior, Painted Rocks, and Hector Falls ; and gets back at 10.30, 3.30, and 3.50 (fare, 25c.). Watkins Glen. Hotels. — * Lake View Hotel, an elegantly fitted building on the heights over- looking the village and lake, and 10 niin. wafk fiom the Glen (S3.50 a day ; S!21 a week) ; Glen Mountain House, near the centre of the Glen, §3 a day ; the Glen Park and Arlington Houses, near the entrance, S 3 a day ; the Fall Brook and Jefferson Houses, in the village, $2-3 a day (oi)en all the year). Carnages to the hotels, 25c. Horse-cars from the station to the Glen, 10c. Shops for the sale of cheap and pretly mementos are near the Glen, Watkins is a rambling village of 2,639 inhabitants, situated on the broad plain at the head of Seneca Lake. It is the capital of Schuyler Co. , and has some manufactures, but derives its cliief importance from being the N. terminus of the Chemung Canal (from the Chemung River at Elmira) and the railroad of the Fall Brook Coal Co. This region was first explored by Gen. Sullivan's army after the victory over the Mohawks at Newtown (Elmira) in 1779, and many soldiers settled here after the Rev- olution. It derives its name from Dr. Watkins of London, one of the early proprietors of this land (the Watkins and Flint Purchase). The view from the ridge of Lake View Avenue is very beautiful, and a still more extended * prospect is gained from the observatory on Table Mt., 5 min. walk S. of the Lake View Hotel. The fertile and populous valley is overlooked, with its villages of Watkins and Havana (the Cook Academy looming over the latter), while in the N. Seneca Lake is seen outstretched for many leagues. A short path leads down from the ob- servatory through Glenwood Cemetery to the Glen Mt. House. * Watkins Glen is a deep and nigged ravine ascending between two long ranges of low hills on the W. side of the Seneca Lake Valley. Its course is nearly E. and W., and it rises 800 ft. in about 3 M. The remarkable forms assumed by the riven rocks, the rich foliage of the encircling forest, and the cascades on the falling stream, unite to make of this the most cliarming of American glens. Since 1863 - 64, when the paths and bridges were made, it has steadily gained in reputation, until in 1873 over 60,000 persons visited its depths. The distance to the end of the path is 2^ M., and the bed of the stream may be followed far beyond. Turning in from the WATKINS GLEN. Route 31. 209 village street (| M. from the railroad and steamboat station), tlie tourist passes up the Entrance Amphitheatre toward a narrow cleft in the lofty precipice. Ascending the Entrance Stairs, the narrow Entrance Cascade is seen, falling 60 ft. into a still black pool. From the Sentry Bridge, at the head of the stairs, is gained a fine view of the dark cliifs above, while the fertile valley is outspread hi the E. Another staircase leads to a railed path cut in the cliff-side, over the tranquil depths of Stillwater Gorge, fronted by a tall precipice. This section is called Glen Alpha, and the MinneJiaha Falls are seen near the end. The stream is crossed to the N. and recrossed by stairs to the S. as the path traverses the Labyrinth, — a narrow and intricate chasm between lofty cliffs. Before ascending the Long Staircase, which here climbs the cliff for 50 ft., iheCavern Cascade is seen, falling for 40-50 ft. into a dark basin. A railed path along the S. bank enables one to enter the Grotto, a weird dark cavern directly behind the cascade, which falls in a broad curve over its roof. Looking E. from the stairs, the view known as Whirlicind Gorge is seen. At the head of the Long Staircase, the Profile Gorge of Glen Obscura is entered, and the path ascends the N. cliffs to Point Look Off. From this point Glen Alpha is seen in the E., while W. and above is the Glen Mt. House. This hotel (175 guests; $ 3 a day ; $ 18 a week) is on a rocky shelf 100 ft. above the bottom of the gorge and 200 ft. above Glen Alpha. The rooms and parlors are in the building to the S., which is connected with the Swiss chdlet used for a dining-hall by a graceful iron suspension bridge over Profile Gorge. (A path leads from this point to Table Mt. and the Lake View Hotel in 10 min. ) Just beyond the Glen Mt. House is Capt. Hope's * Glen Art Gallery (fee, 25c.), with nearly 100 paintings by Hope, " the father of the realistic school of landscape painters." The pictures are chiefly of the Glen and of New England scenery ; and the most striking of them are the "Rainbow Falls," the "Gem of the Forest," and the large historical painting of the Army of the Potomac. Passing the Art Gallery, the path continues on the N. cliff, passing the Point of Rocks, and overlooking the Mystic Gorge of Glen Obscura. A long descent follows to the bridge over the Sylvan Rapids, beyond which is * Glen Cathedral, the grandest point in the series. This glen is paved with horizontal Silurian strata, and its sides are of rock for a height of 300 ft., above which the forest falls rapidly to the verge in 200 ft. more of altitude. The length is nearly 1,000 ft., in the direction of E. and W. Near the centre is the Pool of the Nymphs, a broad rock basin filled with crystalline water, called the finest pool in the Glens. In the chancel (W.) of the Cathedral is the massive Central Cascade, which plunges (60 ft.) into a narrow pool which is black with great depth. The vicinity of this dark r.nd rock-bovuid recess is replete with gloomy grandeur. Returning to the centre of the N. side of the Cathedral, the Grand Staircase is N 210 Route 31. WATKINS GLEN. ascended (in two sections) to the entrance of the Glen of the Pools. The retrospect from this point is called the Mammoth Gorge, and midway up the staircase there is a good view (from above) of the Central Cascade. The glen now entered contains a long line of symmetrical rock basins filled with the purest water, and surrounded by fascinating forest scenery. The view from the bridge, which is soon crossed (to the S.), is called the Matchless Scene, and presents a beautiful commingling of trees and cliffs, pools and cascades, rocks, rapids, and shrubbery. The path ascends t(j the Giants' Gorge, at the end of which are the * Triple Cascade and Rainbow Falls (best seen from a path leading beyond the staircase). This is the gem of the water scenery, and is formed by the Glen brook falling from Glen Difficulty in 3 leaps (Triple Cascade) ; while at the same place a small brook from the S. falls over a projecting ledge, and breaks up into a misty sheet of showering drops (Rainbow Falls), The staircase is next ascended, and the path is followed along the side of the S. cliif to Rainbow Falls, which are passed on the inside by a railed walk between the falls and the rock over whose projecting ledges the water descends. The passage-way is very wet, but the rainbow seen through the falls (in the afternoon) repays for the inconvenience. The Platform Stairs are now ascended (fine retrospect), and Glen Difficulty is entered. Passing along Shadoiv Gorge on a pleasant path cut in the cliff, and cross- ing to the N, by a bridge, the Frowning Cliff is seen in advance, stratified like masonry. Another bridge is crossed, and the path winds up the Narrow Pass, inwalled by smootli horizontal strata, to the weirdly dark head of Glen Difficulty, where the Pluto Falls plunge into a deep black basin . A damp and difficult rock stairway leads up alongside the falls into Glen Arcadia, the first forward view in which is called the Artist's Dream, while the retrospect from the head of the falls is named the Spiral Gorge. Glen Arcadia is traversed to the A rcadian Falls (at the head), over which is a bridge which affords a retrospect called the Elfin Gorge. The path proper ends here, but visitors often pass on without difficulty into the open glens (more properly, dells) above. Glen Facility is first traversed, and then Glen Iloricon is entered (| M. from Pluto Falls). Beyond this narrow valley is Glen Elysium., a pleasant glade 50 acres in extent, overhung on the N. by a cliff" 400 ft. high. Passing the Omega Fall, Glen Omega is reached, beyond which there is nothing but ordinary hill scenery. Most visitors turn back from the Pluto Falls, and leave the Glen at the Glen Mt. House, by a path diverging from the N, cliffs (it being difficult for ladies to descend the Long Staircase in Glen Alpha), It is field (Prof. Edmund Burke) that the mt. through which the Glen cuts its way was once an island in a lake 70 M. long (from Horseheads to Byron). Wlien the waters suddenly subsided ("the seas went down into their hollows"), and Seneca Lake assumed its present form, this mt. was attacked in the centre hy HAVANA GLEN. Route 31. 211 torrents, and being relieved of tlie lateral pressure of the lake-waters, it split thi'ough the niiddle, and the gorge was widened by rushing waters. The mt. is composed of metamorpliic stratified roclt, resting upon a Silurian formation. Ferns which are rarely seen N. of the Carolinas and lichens and mosses peculiar to Labrador are found here in connection with a great variety of the flora of this latitude. " In all my travels I liave never met with scenery more beautiful and romantic than that embraced in this wonderful Glen ; and the most remarkable thing of all is, that so much magniticence and grandeur should be found in a region where there are no ranges of mts." (Bayard Taylor.) " It is a marvellous rift in the mt., which it seems must have been made by some stujiendoas earthquake shock. It suggests Vaucduse in the pellucid clear- ness and sparkle of the water It faintly suggests the sombre, magnificent Pass of the Finsteriiumz, in the Tyrol, but is infinitely brighter and more varied. It suggests Trenton Falls, but is wilder and deeper. Most of all, it suggests Basil- Bish, in old Berkshire, — is, indeed, vei-y like it, but is yet more pictu- resque and perilous." (Grace Greenwood.) Tlie * Havana Glen is the complement of tlie Watkins Glen ; and it.s waterfalls are heavier and the rocks are more mural than those of the latter. Tliis Glen is 3^ M. from Watkins, and is much admired by thousands of travellers. Tourists now visit it by carriage from Watkins ($1.50-2), or by railroad (the Glen is 1 M. from the Havana station). The Montour House, in Havana village, is large and in- expensive. At the Glen are the Glen Grove and Mt. Cliflf Houses, small places for refreshments only. The gorge is entered near Portal Cascade, and at the little curiosity-shop just beyond, the entrance-fee (25c.) is paid. Passing around the Landslide Gap, the Crystal Rapids are soon seen in advance; and after crossing a bridge, the * Eagle Cliff Falls are reached. This massive and beautiful fall (60 ft. high) is flanked by lofty and symmetrical cliffs, which resemble ancient fortress-walls. Near the summit of the N. cliff an eagle's eyrie may be seen. A long stairway ascends at the E., and ends at the very verge of the falls. At the top the tourist enters the Council Chamber, a remarkable hall 100 X 25 ft. in area, with sides and floor of solid rock, as smooth and rec- tangular as masonry. A stairway up the E. wall connects with a path leading to the * Curtain Cascade, which is considered the most beautiful in the Glen. Passing a bridge over the cascade, and climbing another stairway in Hermit's Gorge, a narrow and high-walled" chasm, Jacob's Ladder (2 stairways nearly 100 ft. high) is ascended, with the lovely Bridal Veil Fall on the E., sweeping broadly over broken ledges. The view down Hermit's Gorge (W.) is full of interest. Pilgrim's Grotto is beyond the Ladder, and then the path crosses a bridge, winds along the cliffside, and passes through a cavern known as the Mountain Tunnel. Cavern Gorge is to the N., and beyond it is the Indian Oven. Still farther E. the path winds along the cliff, by the Whispering Falls, into Chaos Gorge. Near Echo Falls a bridge is crossed, then the Fairies' Cascade is seen on the r., and a final ascent leads to Swimmt Gorge and Falls. An easy pathway leads back to the entrance, by passing along the 212 Route 31. SENECA LAKE. upper hillside to the Mt. Cliff House (refreshments), but it will be found more profitable to descend through the Glen. This Glen is 1^ M. long, and ascends 700 ft. On the road to the village is seen the spacious brick building erected for the Peoj)le'.s College, located here in 1857, and intended to occupy 800 ft. of 4-story buildings (costing $175,000), and to have 19 professorships. The project failed, and the structure is now occupied by the Cook A cademy, a flourishing Baptist school with 2 - 300 students. Glen Montour is W. of Havana, and is said to possess much beauty. Arrangements are being made to open it for visitors in the summer of 1876. Glen Excelsior is E. of Watkins, and contains the Empire Fall, with 280 ft. of slant height. Peach Orchard and Hector Falls Glens are on the E. shore of Seneca Lake, and are often explored by sure-footed pedestrians. The Magnetic Spring Sanitarium is in the village of Ha- vana, at the Magnetic Springs, whose waters are held to be beneficial in chronic, rheumatic, and cutaneous diseases (baths, 50c.; Turkish baths, $1 ; board, medical treatment, and baths, $12-16 a week). Excursions are made from Watkins to Ithaca, by Cayuta Lake ; and on the N. Central R. R. to Crystal Springs, Keuka Lake (23 M.), and Canandaigua Lake (47 M.). Seneca Lake. " On thy fair bosom, silver lake, " How sweet, at Bet of sun, to view The wild swan spre.itls his snowy sail, Thy golden mirror, spreading wide, And round his hreast ihc ripples break. And see the mist of mantling blue As down he bears before the g:ile. Float round the distant mountain's side. " On thy fair bosom, wavelcss stream, " At midnisht hour as shines the moon, The dipping i)addlc echoes far, A slieet of silver spreads below. And flashes in the moonliglit gleam, And swift she cuts, at highest noon. And bright reflects the polar star. Light clouds, like wieaths of purest enow. " The waves along thy pebbly shore, " On thy fair bosom, silver lake. As blows the north-wind, heave their foam, Oh! I could ever sweep the oar, And curl around the dashing oar, When early birds at morning wake. As late the boatman hies him home. And evening tells us toil is o er.' " To Seneca Lake." (Peecival.) Seneca Lake is situated in Central New York, and is 35 M. long and 1-4 M. wide. It occupies a deep valley between bold shores running N. and S., from which cultivated uplands slope away to a height of 3 - 700 ft. There are many productive and valuable vineyards on the shores, and the general character of the scenery is that of rich and peace- ful farm-lands and quiet villages. The lake is 441 ft. above the ocean, and 196 ft. above Lake Ontario. There is a considerable commerce on its waters, — mostly in the transportation of coal. The depth of the water is remarkable, and reaches in some places over 1,000 ft., while 300 ft. is found near the shore. This great reservoir is kept full by the operation of countless sub-aqueous springs, and but a small portion of the water enters from the tributary brooks. The waters are of rare transparency, and even in midsummer preserve their coldness, while during the coldest weather the lake never freezes completely over. It is held by scientists SENECA LAKE. Route 31. 213 that after the subsidence of the waters Lake Ontario emptied to the S. through the Seneca and Cajniga valleys, but the Seneca waters now flow N. E., and unite with the Oneida River to form the Oswego River, empty- ing into Lake Ontario. A century ago these shores were dotted with the villages of the valiant Senecas, a warlike tribe of the Six Nations. In August, 1779, General Sullivan led a strong force into this region, defeated the Senecas in a pitched battle near El- mira, and advanced rapidly through the defiles to the head of the lake. The trooiis then swept up the shores, bearing sword and torch through the rich plan- tations of the Indians. Dozens of villages were swept from existence ; Kendaia was utterly destroyed ; Gotheseuuquean was taken and razed by 400 Continentals, and the tribal capital and castle of Ganundesaga (IJ M. W. of Geneva) was anni- hilated. " Few of the present generation are aware of the advances wliich the Indians, in the wide and beautiful country of the Cayugas and Senecas, had made in the march of civilization. They had several towns and many large villages laid out with a considerable degree of regularity. They had framed houses, some of them well finished, having chimneys, and painted. They had broad and produc- tive fields ; and in addition to an abundance of apples, were the enjoyment of the pear and the more luscious peach." (Stone.) Said the great Seneca chief, Corn- Planter, to Washington (in 1792), " When your army entered the countrj' of the Six Nations, we called you Annatakaules, the Town-Destroyer ; and to this day, when that name is heard, our women look behind them and turn pale, and our childi-eu cling close to the necks of their mothers." The steamer passes out from Watkins, with tall highlands on either side. The Hector Falls are seen on the r., and also N. Hector Point (summer hotel), famous for its June camp-meetings. N. Hector is nearly opposite Eddytown (W. shore), which is the seat of a Christian theo- logical seminary. 8 M. from Watkins a landing is effected at Big Stream, near an unexplored glen of great beauty and extent. Near Lodi Land- ing the Mill Creek falls over a cliff 125 ft. high, and passes from a dark and romantic ravine into the lake. Long Point is now passed on the 1., and the steamer rounds in at Ovid (E. shore), where may be seen the spacious and costly buildings of the Willard Lunatic Asylum, which occupies also the former buildings of the State Agricultural College, 1 M. E. of the lake. Dresden (W. shore) was foimded in ]788 by tlie heretical New England proselytes of Jemima Wilkinson, and is 5-G M. from the large town of Penn Yan, on Keuka Lake. Great vineyards aro seen on tlie W., S. of Dresden, producing rich still wines (sweet and dry Catawba). The steamer runs N. between the rolling hills of Seneca and Fayette, passes Dey's Landing, and stops at Geneva {Franklin House : American House, $ 2), a town of 6,571 inhabitaiits, v.ith 9 churches and 2 weekly papers, and chiefly known for its schools. Hohart College is an Episcopal institution wliich was founded in 1825, and has 9 professors and 60-70 students. It receives annual subsidies from Trinity Church in N. Y. City. The buildings are substantial, and front on Main St., a fi)ie avenue of villas overlooking the lake. The college has also a grammar school and a small Divinity school, but the Geneva Medical College is no longer in existence. Trinity Church is on Main St., and has a picturesque 214 Route 32. THE MIDLAND R. R. Saxon tower. St. Peter's Chiirch has costly stained windows, and was built as a memorial to Bishop De Lancey. Geneva is pleasantly situated wdth respect to Seneca Lake, and its fertile environs are devoted to the nursery business. Near the village is the ancient fortification known as Fort Hill, which was erected by the piehistoric race of "mound-builders," and was covered with large forest trees a century ago. U M. N. W. is Old Castle, with an Indian cemetery and remains of fortifications." This was the site of the largest Indian village in \V. New York, and was only ceded to tlie colonists under a promise (which has not been broken) that it sliould not be jjloughed up or otherwise invaded. Many relics have been found in tlie vicinity, and the place is still held in honor by the remnant of the Six Nations. It was the rliief scat of the brave and skilful Seneca tribe, but after they gave in tlieir adhesion to the British during the Revolution, they were expelled from their ancient homes. 32. New York to Oswego. By the N. J. Midland and the N. Y. & O. Midland R. R., which was first opened to travel in 1873. The station in Jersey City is gained by ferry from tlie foot of Cortlandt St. or Desbrosses St., N. Y. Fares, to Montclair, 35c. ; Pompton, §1 ; Middletown, §2.05 ; Liberty, § 3.30 ; Sidnev Plains, §5.50 ; Oneida, §6.55 ; Oswego, §7.25. Stations. — New York ; Jersey City ; Pompton .Tunc. ; Deckertown ; Midd]eto^\Ti, 66 M. ; Crawford June, 69 ; IBloomingburgh, 76: W'urtsboro', 78 ; Summitville, 81^ ; Fallsburgh ; Liberty ; Parkesville ; Morseton ; Cadosia Summit ; "Walton (branch line to Delhi) ; Sidney Centre ; Sidney Plains, (about) 118 M. from N. Y. ; New Berlin June., 120.V (Vminch to New Berlin); Guilford, 127; Oxford, 136^; Norwich, 145 ; Earlville", 160 ; Smith's Valley, 164 ; Eaton, 168^ ; Morrisville, 171 ; Munnsville, 173 ; Oneida Community, 183 ; Oneida, 186^ ; Durliamville, 188J ; North Bay, 197 : W. Vienna, 200 ; Cleveland, 203 ; Constantia, 210^ ; Central Square, 218i ; Caughdenoy, 222 ; Pennelville, 225 ; Fulton, 233 ; Battle Island, 236^ ; Seneca Hill, 238 ; Oswego, 243. Montclair Division. Leaving Jersey City, and passing Arlington, the marshes of Kearney, and the N. borders of Newark, the line runs out by the stations of Montgomery, Bloom- field, and Chestnut Hill. Montclair is a large suburban village near Orange Mt., and is the terminus of the Newark & Bloonitield R. R. The train now nins N. by several rural villages, with First Mt. on the 1., rounds the mt. and crosses the Vernon Valley to Little Falls, a factory village on the Passaic River, 4 M. S. W. of Paterson and N. of the Second Orange Mt. The Morris & Essex Canal here crosses the river in a stone aqueduct. Stations, Singac, Mt. View, Pequannock, and Pompton Plains, in a rich and jjopulous valley 6 M. long, with high hills to the W. (abounding in iron). The train follows the Pequannock River to the N. to Riverdale, Pompton, and Pompton Junction, where the Midland R. R. is mot. While stationed at Pompton in 1781, a part of the Jersey line of the Continental army revolted. Faithful troops were sent against them and forced the insurgents to surrender by training artillery on the camp. The ringleaders were tried by a drum-head court-martial, and were " shot to death with musketry." Station, Wanaque, with the mines on High Top Mt. on the W., beyond which the line approaches the widenings of the Ringwood River. On the r. are the Ramajio Mts. ; on the 1. Winbeam Mt. Stations, Ringwood (near Greenwood Lake), and Monks. Middletown is 66 M. from New York, and is often reached by the fast trains on the Erie Railway in preference to the regular line of the Midland. The N. J. Midland R. R. passes out from Jersey City through the hill-country of New Jersey and by Hackensack and Paterson to the WALTON. Route 32. 215 intersection of the Montclair Division at Pompton Junction. From Pompton the R. R. passes N. W. np the Pequannock Valley by the ham- lets of Bloomingdale, Charlottehurgh (near Copperas Mt.), and Newfound- land, which lies to the S. of the Bear Fort Mts. Beyond Stockholm the Hamburgh Mt. is crossed to Ogdensbuvgh (seat of the Passaic Zinc Works) in a region of hills ; and then the train reaches Franklin Furnace, in the vicinity of profitable zinc-mines. A R. R. runs from Franklin S. W. to Newton, and to W^aterloo, on the Morris & Essex R. R. Beyond Ham- burgh the train passes Pochung Mt. and the broad Drowned Lands on the r., and reaches Decl'^rtoum, a large village in the town of Wantage. This region is rich in rural scenery and fertile farms, and lies in the Deep Clove, a portion of the Kittatinny Valley. On the W. is the Blue Ridge, and on the E. is the Pocliung Mt. The town was settled by Alsatian Huguenots and New England Ba]itists about the year 1740 ; and was fre- quently desolated by the Indians, especially at the massacre of the Minisink. Beyond Deckertown the R. R. enters the State of N. Y. The line passes 3 small stations in the dairy-towns of Minisink and Wawayanda (with the Shawangunk Mts. on the W.), and then reaches Middletorni (see page 223), at the intersection of the Midland R. R. and the Erie Railway. From Crawford Junction, 3 M. N. of Miildletown, a branch R. R. runs N. E. 10^ M. to Phie Bush, in the uplands of Crawford. The dark wall of the Shawangunk Mts. is now approached, an). From the next station, E. Guilford, a branch R. R. diverges to the N. up the Unadilla Valley by Rockdale, Mt. Upton, and Homesville, to Neio Berlin (Central Hotel). Stations, Guilford, and Oxford, a pros- perous manufacturing village, where the line reaches the Chenango River. • The train noAV runs parallel with the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western R, R. to Norwich, crossing the Lyon Brook iron trestle-bridge, which is 800 ft. long and 162 ft. high. Norwich {Eagle Hotel) is a thriving place, with piano, hanmier, and carriage factories, and a population of 4,500. It is the capital of Chenango County, and has a handsome stone Court House, in Corinthian architecture. The Auburn Branch of the Midland R. R. extends from Norwich to Scipio Centre, S4 M. It crosses tlie farming and dairy towns of Plymouth, SmjTna, Otselic, Georgetown, De Ruyter, Cuyler, Tnixton (near the picturesque Labrador Pond and Tinker's Falls), Homer, and Cortland. From Freeville, an intersection of several railroads, the line is under construction across the lake towns of Lan- simr, Genoa, Venice, and S('i])io, to Auburn. The Utica Division of the D., L. & W.'R. R. crosses the Midland road near Norwich, and runs from the junction to Utica in 46 M. N. E,, or to Binghamton in 95 M. S. W. The Utica and Rome. Divisions. Tlie Midland train passes N. fnnn Norwich by Smyrna to Earlville, whence the Syracuse and Chenango Valley R. R. diverges to the N. W. From the next sta- tion, SmUh's Valley, a branch R. R. runs to the N. E., reaching Utica in 31 M. and Rome in 35 M. station, Hamilton, an academie village, with 5 churches, the Hamilton Female Hominnry, and tlie MajU-.on I'liiverdti/, a school and theo- logical dei )artment of the Baptist Church , with 1 1 professors, and about 1 50 students. It'^vas founded in 184G, and has an Alunnii Hall and JIusenm. Stations, Pecksport, Bouckville, Solsville, Oriskanv Falls. Dcansvillc, Franklin (iron-works), and then Clinton, an academic village of 2,000 inhabitants, in the fruit-growing town of Kirldand (named after an early missionary to the (Jneidas). Hamilton College was founded as an academy by Rev. .Samuel Kirkland, in 17P3, and became a col- lege in 1S12. It is situated in a jileasant ])ark of 15 acres, overlooking the Oris- kany VallHV, and has several plain stone l)aildings, — Dexter Hall (N.), Kirkland Hall (middle), Hamilton Hall (8.), the Chapel, the Smith Library (with about 14,000 volumes), and tlie Litehfiold Observatory, containing a large equatorial telescope, by which 8 new asteroids have been discovered. Over the library is a Memorial Hall, and also a small portrait gallery. There are 11 professors and 160-180 students (1,300 alumni), but the college is not self-supporting, OAvmg to a large number of free scholarships, and is somewhat dependent on its rich en- dowments and liberal State aid. A law-school is attach.ed to the mstitution. The Clinfnn Liberal Institute was founded bv the Universalists in 1S32, and has 2 large buildings, for 150 students (both sexes). The Houghton Female Seminary is also at this place, and has fmely ornamented grounds. There is an attractive view of the village and its great schools from the neighboring hill called "the Knob." A R. R. runs N. W. 13 M. from Chnton across the town of Westmoreland to the city of Rome (see page 167), and the Utica Division runs N. E. 9 M. to Utica (see page 166). The Midland train (main line) passes Smith's Valley 19 M. N. of Nor- wich, and runs N. by Eaton, Morrisville (a small hamlet, capital of Madi- son County), Munnsville, Stockbridge, and .Oneida Community. ONEIDA LAKE. Route 32. 217 The Community is 3 M. S. of Oneida, and consists of about 300 men and women residing in large buildings on a fruitiul farm. All property is held in common, and considerable revenues are derived from fruit-raising and the manufaclure of traps, hats, and sewing-silk. The Free-Love principles are here inculcated, and the relations of the sexes are governed (not by law nor by license, but) by so-called " inspiration." The Community was founded by John H. Noyes in 1847, and has a branch at Wallingford, Conn. The next station is Oneida, where the Midhxnd line passes under the N. Y, Central R. R. (see page 167). The distance between the Midland and the Central stations is about ^ M. (omnibus, 10c.). Stations, Dur- hamville, State Bridge, and North Bay, beyond which the line follows the N. shore of Oneida Lake for about 15 M. The nearer shore is marshy and low, but there is a pleasant view to the S. across the broad waters to the blue highlands of Onondaga County. Oneida Lake is 19 M. long and 6 M. wide, covering 57,000 acres, and is 141^ ft. above Lake Ontario. The level lands of the lacustrine counties are very fertile, and the chief agri- cultural industries are dairying and stock-raising. Clevelaiul and Con- stantia are the next stations on the lake. The former is the largest village on the lake ; and Constantia is a pleasant ham- let, 4 M. from which is Frenchman's Island, a pretty circular islet containing 25 acres of primitive forest. Here lived Devitzy and his wife, who was one of the loftiest patrician dames of France. They had eloped, and were pursued by paternal anger, so about the year 1800 they fled to this remote i)lace, where they lived in a log-cabin 7 summers, surrounded by flowers and books and Old-World luxuries. After 7 years the pursuing but long ago relenting father found them and led them home, where the great family estates and honors were settled on them. De Tocqueville penetrated tlie wildemcss, during his visit to America, in order to visit this romantic isle, whose former denizens he had known. French- man's Island is a favorite point for picnic parties, sailing from tlie lake villages. Beyond Constantia the train enters the marshes of W. Monroe, and passes to Central Square, where it intersects the Syracuse Northern R. R., 17 M. from Syracuse. The lowlands of Hastings and Schroeppel are now crossed to Fulton {Leiais House), at the Falls on Oswego River, with 3,507 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 Aveekly papers. On the opposite shore is the hamlet of Oswego Falls. The line now follows the Oswego River by Battle Island (scene of a sharp action with the French and In- dians, in 1756), to Seneca Hill and Oswego. Hotels. — * Doolittle House, 5-600 gviests, at the Deep Rock Spring ; * Reve- nue House, First St., corner of Utica St., $2.50-3 a day; Hamilton House, $2- 2.50; Ontario House. Readinn rooms at the City Librarv, Washington Square; and at the Y. M. C. A. rooms, 200 W. 1st St. Post-Office, corner of Oneida and W. 1st Sts. Horse-cars traverse First St. and other thoroughfares. Stages run thrice daily to Uaionville. Steamers of the Canadian Navigation Co. leave every evening for Charlotte ;uhI Montreal, and the Northern Transportati(m Co.'s propellers (.see page 1'.17) leave every mtu-ning lor tlie West. Railroads. — The N. Y. & O. Midland (station on Wasliington Square) to N. Y. in 24:i M. ; tlie Rome, W. & O. R. R. to Richland and Rome (71 M.) ; the O.svvego and Syracuse Div. o!' the D., L. & W. R. R. (station neir the Revenue House) to Syracuse (35 M.); and the Lake Ontario Shore R. R. to Lcwiston (150 M.), couuectuig for Niagara. 10 218 Route 32. OSWEGO. Oswego is a thriving commercial city on the S. shore of Lake Ontario, situated on the low l)luffs at the moutli of the Oswego River, which here discharges the waters of Oneida, Onondaga, Cayuga, and Seneca Lakes. The harbor is broad and capacious, and is sheltered by long and costly piers. Vast quantities of grain and lumber are received here, and are sent away by rail or on the canal. Tliere are 11 elevators, with a storage capacity of over 2,000,000 bushels, and 14 flour-mills, with 73 run of stone and a capacity of 6,000 barrels of flour daily. Kingsford's Starch Factory employs 600 men, and makes 33 tons daily, and there are other < manufactories at the falls on the river. The city has 22,455 inhabitants, with 16 churches, 8 banks, and 2 daily papers. Oswego is handsomely laid out, witli streets 100 ft. wide crossing each otlier at right angles. The river divides it into 2 nearly equal parts, which are joined by 2 bridges (from the one at Bridge St. is gained a pleasant view of the harbor). Near Washington Square, on the E. side, are the coimty buildings, the venerable Church of the Evangelists, the armory of the 48th Regiment, and the City Library (containijig 12,000 volumes, a portrait of Gerrit Smith, — its founder, — and a curious slab of flexible marble). Christ Church is on Cayuga St., and the spacious Catholic Church is on Mohawk St. Fort Ontario is a strong work fronting the lake and commanding the harlior from the E. shore. It is garrisoned by a small force, and is open to visitors. First St. W. (W. side of the river) is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and passes the fine stone buildings of the Post-Office and the City Hall. The Normal and Training School occupies a spacious structure on the corner of Seneca and Sixth Sts., and is widely known for its efficiency. The DcciJ Rock Sjiriuf/ was discovered near First St. W. in 1867, and is said to have much medicinal virtue. Each gallon contains 318 grains of chloride of sodium, 149 of chloride of potas- sium, 1^ of cldoride of magnesium, and 72 grains of silica. The new and elegant Doolittle House has been built over it to acconmiodate invalid visitors. The heights on either side of the city and fronting the lake on the W. are occupied by pleasant villas and summer residences. The Lake Ontario Shore R. R. runs S. W. from Oswego through the lake towns, passing several small hamlets of Oswego and Wayne Counties. At Sterling (IG M. from Oswego), it crosses the S. Central R. R. ; and at Sodus (41 M.), the Sodus Bay and Southern R. R. is intersected. The line is now coiiii)leled by Ontario to Lewiston, on the Niagara River. Oswego (an Indian Avord. meaning Rapid Water) was first visited and fortified by the Count de Frontcnac (in 109G), while on his way to attack the Onondagas. In 1722 William Burnett, Gov. of N. Y. (son of Bishop Burnett, and godson of Priiu'e William of Orange), erected a permanent fort at Oswego, and in 1755 Gov. Shirley, of Mass., ;idvanced hither across the vast forest with 1,500 men, and built 2 large forts, where he left 700 men in garrison. In Aug., 1756, the Marquis de Montcalm invested the works with 5,C00 men (French and Indians), and after a short siege and a bombardment from 32 heavy guns, the forts were surrendered with 1,400 soldiers, 134 pieces of artdlery, "and a fleet of vessels. Moutcahn THE ERIE RAILWAY. Route 33. 219 destroyed the works, and carried his captives and spoils to Montreal. New fortifi- cations were erected by the f^nglish in 1757-59 ; and here St. Leger gathered his motley aniiy of Tories and Indians, previous to tlie siege of Fort Htanwix. Here, also, his panic-stricken forces fled after the failure of that cami)aign. Oswego was held by the royal troops until 1796, when it passed into the jurisdiction of the U. S. On the morning of. May 5, 1814, Sir James Yeo's British fleet appeared off the place and bumbardcd it for 3 hours. Fort Ontario kept vip a steady fire, but the enemy landed 1,200 men and the garrison retreated slowly up the river. The British destroyed the barracks and spiked the fortress-cannon, but failed to reach the great deposit of naval stores at the Falls, and embarked the next day, having lost 235 men (American loss, 09). The little hamlet founded at Oswego iu 1796 by Neil McMulIin was devoted to building vessels ; and after the introduc- tion of steam-navigation on Lake Ontario in 1816, the place grew rapidly in com- merce and manufactures. It is now second only to Rochester in the amount of flour produced. 33. New York to Elmira, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls. The Erie Railioay. Tliis great trunk-line to the West traverses a country- which is more picturesque and romantic; than that along tlie line of the N. Y. Oentral R. R., thougli the lat- ter line derives an advantage from passing through the handsome cities of Central N. Y. Pullman parlor and sleeping cars are attaclied to the through <;ars on the Erie : and there are comfortable arrangements for meals along the route. The Day-Express train leaves N. Y. in the morning, and reaches Bufl'alo in 16 hrs. ; Cleveland in 23^ hrs, ; Cincinnati in 34 hrs. ; Chicago in 36 hrs. The Pacific Ex- jtress leaves early in the evening, and reaches Buffalo about noon the next day. Fares. — New York to Suffcrn, SI ; to Port Jervis, §2.70; to Cochecton, $4 ; to Hancock, $5 ; to Binghamton, ^6.15 ; to Waverly, ••?6.95 ; io Elmira, *7.25 : to Hornellsville, $8.50 ; to Buffalo or Niagara, $9.25 ; to Salamanca or Dunkirk, 810.40; to Erie, $11.75; to Toronto, $12.25; to Cleveland, $14.25; to De- troit, $16.25; to Cincinnati, $20; to Chicago, $22; to St. Louis, $27; to Memphis, $38.25 ; to Mobile, $45 ; to New Orleans, $50 ; to Galveston, $68.75 ; to St Paul, $.37.25 ; to Omaha, $39.50; to Denver, $79.90 ; to Salt I^ake City, $ 119..50 ; to San Frtincisco, $ 1.39.50 ; to Portland, Or., §109.50 or $179.50. Stations. — New York; Jersey City; Rutherfurd Park, 9 M. ; Pas.saic, 11 ; Paterson, 16 ; Ridgewood, 21 ; Hohokus, 23 ; Allendale, 25 ; Ramsey's, 27 ; Sufferu, 31 ; Ramapo, 33 ; Sloatsburgh, 35 ;' Southfield's, 41 ; Newbui-gh June, 41 (branch to Newburgh, 63); Turner's. 47; Monroe, 49; Oxford, 51; Greycourt, 53; Goshen, 59 ; Hampton. 63 ; Middletown, 66 ; Howell's, 70 ; Otisville, 75 ; Port Jervis, 87 ; Shohola, 106 ; Lackawaxen, 110 ; Pine Grove, 116 ; Narrowsburgh, 122 ; Cochecton, 130 ; Calicoon, 135 ; Rock Run, 138 ; Basket, 145^ ; Lordville, 152^; Hancock, 163 ; Dickinson's, 169 ; Hale's Eddv, 17U; Deposit, 176 ; Sum- mit, 183 ; Susquehanna, 192 ; Great Bend, 200 ; Kirkwood, 205 ; Binghamton, 214 ; Hooper. 220 ; Union, 223 ; Campvillc, 229 ; Oswego, 236 ; Tioga, 241 ; Smith boro', 246; Barton, 248; Waverly, 255; Chemung, 260; Wellsburg, 266; Elmira, 275; Big Flats, 283 ; Coming, 290 (branch line to Rochester, 385) ; Painted Post, 292 ; Addison, 3)1 ; Rathboneville, 306 ; Cameron, 314 ; Adrian, 322 ; Canisteo, 327 ; Hornellsville, 331 ; Alfred, 340 ; Andover, 349 ; Genesee, 357 ; Philliiisville, 365 ; Belvidere, 369 ; Friendship, 373 ; Cuba, 3S2 : Olean, 394 ; Allegany, 398 ; Carrollton, 407 ; Great Valley, 410 ; Salamanca, 413 ; Little Valley, 421 ; Cattarau- gus, 428 ; Dayton, 437 ; Pcrrysburgh, 440 ; Smith's Mills, 447 ; Forestville, 451 ; Dunkirk, 4-59. Btiffalo Division. Hornellsville, 331 ; Canaseraga, 343 ; Nunda, 355 ; Portage, 361 ; Castile, 365 ; Gainesville, 367 ; Warsaw, 374 ; Linden, 385 ; Attica, 391 ; Darien, 397 ; Alden. 403 ; Lancaster, 412 ; Buffalo, 422 ; Suspension Bridge, 443 ; Cleveland, 605 ; Chicago, 961. Northern R. R. of N. J. New York to Nyack, 29 M. ; time, 1^-2 hrs. Soon after leaving Jersey City the line turns to the N. between the heights of Hoboken and the broad marsilies of the Hackensack River. The ensuing stations are at suburban villages which are more or less dependent on New York. New Durham is W. of Weehawken on 220 Route 33. PATERSON. the Hudson ; Granton is W. of Bull's Ferry ; Ridgefield Park has a large summer hotel ; and Leonia is N. W. of Fort Lee. The line thence ascends the fertile val- ley by Van Brunt's, and Englewood, whicli is near the * Palisade Mountain House, opposite the N. end of Manhattan Island. Stations, Highland, Tenafly (near Highwood Park, on the Palisades opposite Yonkers), Cresskill, Closter (near Old Hook, in the Hackensack Valley), and Norwood, beyond which it enters New York and passes Tappan, and runs N. along the Hudson shore to Piermont and Nyack (see page 65). The Hackenmch Branch. Stations. — New York ; Jersey City ; Erie June, 8 ; Carlstadt. 9 ; Woodridge, 10 ; Lodi June, 12 ; Hackensack, 13 ; Cherry Hill, 15 ; River Edge, 17 ; Oradell, 18 ; Kinderkamack, 20 ; Westwood, 21 ; Hillsdale, 22 ; Pascack, 26 ; Park Ridge, 24 ; Nanuet, 28 ; vSpring Valley, 30 ; Suffern, 37. After leaving Jersey City the train passes out through N. Bergen and crosses the Hackensack meadows and river to Erie Junction, Avhere it diverges to the N. E. through the German village of Carlstadt. Stations, Woodridge, Corona, Lodi Junction (whence a branch R. R. runs to Lodi), and Hackensack (Hackensack i/oitse), an ancient village with 9 churches and the buildings of Bergen Countj'. It is at the intersection of the ]iresent sub-route with the Midland R. R. ; and is in the fertile and wealthy Hackensack Valley (nearly midway between Fort Lee and Paterson). The village was partially burnt by the Hessians in 1780 ; and was the scene of several sharp skii-mishes. The train now ascends the valley, with the Palisade highlands on the r., traverses the level dairy-town of Washing- ton, enters the State of N. Y., and reaches Nanuet, on the Piermont Branch R. R., whence a R. R. is to be built N, to New City. From Nanuet the train runs W. 9 M. to Siiffern (see page 221). Passengers leave the foot of Chambers or of 23cl St., and cross to the Erie terminal station in Jersey City, whence the train runs out through the Bergen tunnel, piercing for ^ M. the rocky ledges of Bergen Heights. Passing over the flat marshes of Secaiicus, with Snake Hill on the 1., the line crosses the Hackensack River and a wide moorland, with the Boonton Branch R. R. on the W., and the Hackensack Branch diverging on the r. Beyond the low heights of Rutherfurd Park ( Union Hotel), the Passaic River is crossed to Passaic ( Pas^arc Hotel), the ancient village of Acquackanonck, bought by the Dutch from the Sachem Captahem. This village has 9 churches, and large print-works near the river. The train now reaches Paterson {Hamilton House, $ 3 a day; Franklin House, on Main St.), the capital of Pas.saic County, and a prosperous city of 33,579 inhabitants. It was founded in 1791 by Alexander Hamilton's efforts, and was designed for '' a great emporium of manufactures." In so far has this scheme succeeded that Paterson is now one of the first manufac- turing cities in New Jersey, There are many cotton-mills on the water- power afforded by the Passaic Falls; also the Passaic Flax-Works, im- mense locomotive-works, the mills of the American Velvet Company, and the largest silk-factory in the U. S. (established in 1840), employing 800 hands, and making $ 2,000,000 worth of silk yearly. Tlie city has 2 daily papers, 2 banks, and 34 churches (including 4 of Hollanders). The streets are broad and well laid out, and 2 bridges cross to the suburb of Manchester. The * Passaic Falls are wnthin the city limits, and are surrounded by a small and rugged park. The river here falls perpendic- THE RAMAPO VALLEY. Route 33. 221 wlarly about 50 ft. into a deej) crevice between palisades of basalt, and affords a fine sight at time of high water. Below the falls (which are best seen from the bridge) the river bends sharply, and ilows through a dark gorge between high rectilinear basaltic walls. On a cliif in this vicinity is a handsome monument in honor of the soldiers of Paterson in the Secession War ; and also a belvidere tower, which overlooks tlie city and much of Passaic County. Near the latter are the high reservoirs of the water-works. Paterson is a station on the Midland, the Patei'son and Newark (11 M.), and the Del., Lack, and Western E,. Rs.; also on the Morris and Essex Canal. The Erie train now runs N. through a fertile coimtry by several rural handets, approaches the Ramapo Mts. on the W., enters the State of N. Y., and reaches Suffern. A branch line runs hence 18 M. S. E. to Sparkill and Piermont (see page 65), from which a spur is to run N. (from Spring Valley) to Grassy Point, on the Hudson. The next station on the main line is Ramapo ( Terrace House), Avhence may be visited the beautiful scenery of the Ramapo Valley. From this point the Torn Mt. is ascended, revealing a view extending over N. Y. harbor. Washington visited this peak in order to observe the British camps and fleets about N. Y. 2 M. W. is the lofty Potague Lake, commanding a view of the Ramapo Gap and Valley. The AJt. Lake House is a summer hotel at ,MahAvah. 1 M. beyond the village the Sterling Mt. R. R. diverges to the N. W., and runs 7g M. through the Bellvale Mts. to Lakeville, on Sterling Pond and near Greenwood Lake. Beyond Sloatsburgh (on the r.) are seen the ivy-clad ruins of the Augusta Iron-Works, where the chain was forged which was stretched aci-oss tliu Hmlsou in 177<:>. The train continues up the Ramapo Valley to Turner's, wliich is situated in one of the fairest parts of the district. It has achieved considerable success as a summer resort, the surrounding views being pleasant, and the country abounding in line roads. There are several higldand lakes (Truxedo, Mount Basha, Round, etc.; with fine pickerel-fishing) in the vicinity; and a road leads 14 M. N. E., througli a wild forest district, to West Point (see page 75). The high hill near the station overlooks the Ramapo Gap, the Hudson River, and Newburgh. The elegant summer hotel and railway dining-room at Turner's (of brick ; 4 stories higli and 400 ft. long) was destroyed by fire, Dec. 26, 1873. The Newburgh Branch R. R. trains run from Turner's to Newburgh in 18-20 M., passing Highland Mills (Cromwell's Lake House, 1,200 ft. above the Hudson), and then traversing the Schunemunk Mts. through Woodbury Clove. Beyond Cornwall (6-7 M. W. of Cornwall-on-Hudson) the line meets the Greycourt Branch at Vail's Gate, whence it runs through the arable hills of New Windsor to Newburgh (see page 76). The Erie train on the main line passes from Turner's to Monroe ( Wabeck House), a 222 RoiUeSS. GREENWOOD LAKE. pleasant liigliland hamlet in the lake country of Orange County. Near this station is the Seven Springs Mountain House, accommodating 400 guests (at $3 a day) in spacious stone buildmgs. Greenwood Lake (* Windermere House, with spacious grounds ; * Brandon House, S 3 a day, § 15 a week) Ls reached by stages from Mon- roe after a ride of 10 M. down a pleasant valley (2 hours). It is also visited from other adjacent stations. The Traphagen House is a new and elegant summer-hotel, pleasantly located on the E. arm of thef like. The steamers make serai-daily trips. The lake is 10 M. long (partly artificial) and 1 M. wide, and has been called " a miniature Lake George," being inwalled by rugged mts. ITie water is very clear, and contains many fish. Wawayondah, Macopin, Sterling, and other lakelets are visited hence, and a pleasant road leads to Warwick in 7 M., passing over the mts. and overlooking the Warwick Woodlands. From Greycourt station a branch R. R. rmis N. E. to Xewburgh in IS M. ; and the Warwick Branch runs S. W. to the pleasant village of Warwick. The train now traverses the rich dairy-lands of Orange County, and crossing the fertile Greycourt Meadows (with Sugar-Loaf Mt. visible), the hamlet of Chester is passed, and the line reaches Goshen, a pretty village of 2,205 inhabitants, with 4 churches and several classical schools. Tliere is a monument in the public square in memory of the men of Goshen who fell in battle at Lackawaxen, in 1779. It is a semi-capital of Orange County, the great dairy of N. Y. City ; and Goshen butter is in high repute. Besides great quantities of butter, cheese, and condensed milk, this district supplies the metropolis with many small fruits and vegetables. A railroad runs S. W. from Goshen 12 M. to Pine Island, in the Drowned Lands of Warwick, W. of the Bellvale Mts. Tlie Walkill Valley Branch extends from Goshen to Kingston in 43 M. The line nms X. E. to the raaiiufacturing villages of Montgomery and Walden, E. of the Com- fat Hills. The Shawangunk Mts. are seen on the 1. as the train traverses the towns of Shawangunk and Gardiner, and the pretty village of New Paltz is next seen, on the widening intervales of the Walkill. 9 M. E. is New Paltz Landing, on the Hudson ; and to the W. is seen Paltz Point, one of the chief Shawangunk peaks. Lake Molionk (* Mountain House, 125 guests ; $14-18 a week) is 6 M. from New Paltz, and is un one of the highest ridges of the Shawangunk Mts., 1,243 ft. above the Hudson River. It is J M. long, very deep, and filled with fish, while its shores aio formed by great piles of quartz rock, and Paltz Point looms boldly over the quiet waters. " Sky-Top is a peak on tlie N., 300 ft. higher than the lake, and commanding a fine *view, including tiie populous Walkill and Esopus Valleys, the ridges of the Shawangunk, the Hudson Highlands, and the Berkshire Hills. Eagle Rock, Sunset Rock, the Balance Rock, and the Labyiinth -re favorite re- sorts near the hike. 5i M. from Lake Mohonk are the High Falls, on the Ronduut Creek. The Lake is reached by stages connecting with the day-boats from N. Y. at Poughkeepsie (14^ M.), and by semi-daily stages from the Erie Rail- way trains at New Paltz. N. Y. to Lake Mohonk, 5| hrs. (by Erie line). - The main line beyond Goshen crosses the town of Wawayanda (in the Walkill Valley), which sends 27,000 gallons of milk to N. Y. daily (station, Hampton), and intersects the N. Y. and 0. Midland R. R. at POPcT JERVTS. Route 33. 223 MiddletOM^n {Grand Central ; Ogden House). This is a brisk manufac- turing place, with 6,049 inhabitants, 8 churches, 3 banks, 5 newspapers, and a printing-office that supplies "patent outsides " to 60 ditFerent niral papers. There is an active fire department, a system of gi'aded schools, and water-works connected with Monhagan Lake. W. of the village is the new State Homoeopathic Insane Asylum. The train enters the hills beyond Howell's station, and at Otisville rapidly ascends the Shawangunk Mts. It was at first thought best to tunnel through this barrier-ridge, but the present system of planes was finally adopted (40 ft. to theM.). The summit is passed in a deep rock-cut (50 ft. deep and h M. long), and the track descends on the W. 45 ft. to the M. The line runs S. W. on lofty galleries, and beautiful ■views of the Neversiuk Valley are aff"orded, with Milford and Port Jervis in the distance (the best views are from the r. of the train). With fascinating prospects of rugged mts. and fruitful valleys on either side, the train sweeps down to Guymard (* Guyniard Spring House, §2.50 a day, $ 12 a week), situated on a spur of the Shawangunk Mts. over the Neversink River. The views from Look-off Point and Mt. Camerdon are attractive, and a noble view is enjoyed from the peak called Prospect Pohit, including Gupnard, Huguenot, Port Jervis, the Nevereink and Delaware Valleys, and a vast wilderness of rugged peaks terminated by Storm King on tlie Hudson River. The Neversink is followed to its confluence with the Delaware River at Port Jervis {Delaware House; Fowler House), at the corner boundary of the States of N. Y., N. J., and Penn. This place has 8,700 inhabi- tants, and 7 churches, and is the seat of extensive R. R. shops. The round-houses have stalls for 60 locomotives. The village was named for John B. Jervis, the engineer of the D. & H. Canal, by which Penn. coal passes this point and is carried to tide-water on the Hudson. The scenery in the district is very striking, and attracts many summer visitors. Point Peter is often visited from this point, and commands a pleasing view, in- cluding Port Jervis and the valleys, and Mts. Sullivan, Williams, and other tall peaks. The Delaware Valley has line carriage-roads leading through pretty scenery. "From the N. border to the famous Water Gap, 40 M. S., stretches a gigantic ridge, compacted of slate and shale, overhanging the rich meadow-banks of the Delaware, and fringed with pine and fir Along this romantic vallev are clitfs of wildest, craggiest forms, and streams as virginal as when they were the Indian maiden's bath and mirror. They tumble over the great bluffs into the lowlands and the welcoming river even at their own sweet will. Shut in with woods and buttressed with mighty walls of rock, are cascades lovely as any in the world, — almost peerless in grace and variety of feature It is a Morning Land, with every cliff facing the risen sun. The mist and languor are in grain- fields far below ; the hills themselves are of the richest, darkest green ; the skies are blue and fiery ; the air is crisp, transparent, oxvgenated, American." (Sted- M.VN.) Miltor A {Dimmick House) is 1 hour's stage-ride S. W. of Port Jervis, crowning a plateau beside the river and (according to Willis) "looking like a town that all the mts. around have disowned and kicked into the middle." Near 224 R(mte 33. LACKAWAXEN. Bimmick's is the picturesque Sairl-ill Glm (0-8 M. from Port Jorvis). with deep gorges and trout-pools, and the * Saw^ ill Fall-!, " wiuise grace is the despair of artists." " But Raymcmd^kin is the a.-' ni.wlcd-ed mojiarch of our Milford fluvi- archy," and has several lovely cataracts (Bridal Veil, Main Fall, etc.). A branch R. R. runs from Port Jervis '24 M. N. to Monticello, following the Never- sink Valley. Stations, Huguenot, Rose Point, Oakland, and Ilartwood, W. of which are the il/onr/awp Falls (70 ft.), in a deep chasm on the Mtmgaup River. Stations, Barnum's, Newfoundland, and Alonticello (Monticello; Mansion), a. highland village finely situated 1,387 ft. above the sea, and surrounded by hills. It is the capital of Sullivan County, and the main street is 1 M. long and 130 ft. wide, with flagged sidewalks and lines of shade-trees. The county buildings are of stone, and there are 4 churches. Pleasant, or Kiamesha, Pon'd, is 1 M. from the village, and has a summer boarding-house on its shore. The N. Y. and O. Midland R. R. is 4-5 M. N. E. of Monticello. The train crosses the Delaware 3 M. beyond Port Jervis, and runs for 26 M. in the State of Penn., in the midst of pleasant and pictnre.sque scenery. The line follows closely the river and canal, and beyond Stairway Brook the track is laid on broad galleries hewn high up in the S. cliffs. The surveyors who located it were lowered by ropes from the sunmiit. Pond Eddy is at a broad curving basin of the Delaware ; and from Shohola a suspension bridge conducts to Barryville, on the N. Y. shore. The railroad for a long distance on this section cost % 100,000 a mile, and looks down from its lofty course upon the pleasant meadows of Lumberland. Station, Lackawaxen, at the confluence of Lackawaxeu Creek and Delaware River. The canal here crosses the river by a suspen- sion bridge ; and the railroad bridges the Lackawaxen. S. of Lackawaxen is the wilderness-county of Pike, 12,000 acres of which are occupied by the Blooming Grove Parlt, belonging to a sp>orting club and guarded by foresters. Anud theses dense forests and lakes are 3-400 deer, with many foxes, hares, bears, and game birds and lish. The proprietors have summer shooting-lodges in the park. The Honcsdale Branch It. R. runs W. up the valley of the Lackawaxen Creek, through the rugged and sparsely inhabited highlands of Pike and Wayne Counties, to Honesdale (25 M.), passing Hawley. 7 M. from Lackawaxen the train crosses the Delaware by a bridge 600 ft. long, and re-enters N. Y. State at Tusten, a forest town of Sullivan County. Station, Na'n-owshurg (summer hotel), at the Big Eddy, where the Delaware is compressed into a narrow channel by two rocky promon- tories. A single-span bridge here crosses the river; and a road leads E. into the lake-strewn towns of Highland and Lumberland, passing several of the hundred lakes of Sullivan County. The vicinity of Narrowsburg was the scene of Cooper's novel, "The Last of the Mohicans." The scenery is less interesting as the train passes Cochecton, which is near Damascus, Penn., and is W. of the many trout-abounding lakes of Bethel. Callicoon is near Galilee, Penn., and the pretty natural scenery of Calli- coon Creek. Stations, Hankins and Basket (at the new factory village of Douglas), beyond which the train passes along the bases of the mountain- ous bluffs of Delaware County. Lcn-dville is opposite the Penn. hamlet of Equinimk ; Stockport is the station for a village of Penn. on the r. SUSQUEHANNA. Route 33. 225 bank. The train passes a long ridge on the r. and crosses the E. Branch of the Dehiware, then reaches Hancock, a pleasantly situated village with a suspension bridge on the W., and a plank road (stages for Hamden and Delhi) running up the Popacton Valley to Walton. The E. bluffs are now skirted on the r., and beyond Hale's Eddy the train reaches Dej^osit, at the great bend in the W. Branch of the Delaware. It is at the mouth of Oquago Creek, and was formerly an impoi'tant place of deposit for lumber awaiting the spring freshets. Extensive cattle-yards are now located here. The line leaves the Delaware Valley and begins to rise over heavy grades through a desolate land of hills. It ascends 369 ft. in 8 M., and readies the lonely station of Summit, 1,366 ft. above the sea. Then ensues a descent of 8 M. on a grade of 60 ft. to tlie M. 4 M. from Summit the ti-ain crosses tlie site of the Cascade Bridge, a light and graceful stinicture of wood and iron which spanned a dark ravine 250 ft. wide and 184 ft, deep. It has been replaced by a lofty embankment. A pleasant * view of the Susquehanna River and Valley is gained on the r.; and the train, entering the State of Penn., crosses the famous * Sta- nicca Viaduct. This noble piece of masonry (built in 2| years) cost % 325,000, and crosses the Starucca Valley by 18 arches, with a length of 1,200 ft. and a height of 110 ft. The valley and viaduct as seen in autumn have been celebrated by Cropsey in a brilliant painting. Cross- ing the Canauacta Creek at Lanesborough on a long trestle-work, the train stops at Susquehanna (* Starucca Hotel, at the station; passengei-s get good meals in tlie lofty and elegant dining-room). This village con- tains the Pfc. R. repair-shops, and is sometimes called "The City of Stairs," from the steepness of its streets and declivities. It was occupied by Penn. troops in March and April, 1874, to prevent destruction of property by insurgent employes. The buildings and machinery are the best in America, covering 8 acres, in 16 departments, and valued at $ 1,750,000. Opposite Susquehanna is the massive Oquago Mt. ; and 2 M. beyond the train passes the Painted Rocks, where the first settlers foi;nd, high up on the cliffs, a painting of an Indian chief. The Jefferson Branch runs S. from Susquehanna to Carbondale (38 M. ) and tlie coal- fields of Luzerne County. The Susquehanna River is ci'ossed (beyond the Starucca Hotel) on a bridge 800 ft. long, and the train traverses level grades between the river and the tall hills on the r., and stops at Great Bend, whose village is on the farther shore. Here the Del., Lack. & Western R. R. comes in from the great coal-fields of Penn., bringing long coal-trains for the Erie western trade. Its track runs parallel to the Erie (on the r. bank) as far as Binghamtou. Beyond Kirkwood the present route reaches Bingham tor 10* O 22G Ronte S3. BTNGFTAMTON. Hotels. — The * Dwiglit House (8 3-4. 50 a day) is a new and elegant hotel VL a I'ar-viewiiig park near tlie (-ity, suitable either tor tourists or for a summer house. Spauldiug House, near the station, $2.&0 ; Lewis House. On Court St., Exchange Hotel ; Way's Hotel ; CaH'erty House. Horse-Cars. —On Main, Court; and Chenango Sts. to Port Dickinson (3 M.) ; on Vvajhiiii^'ton and Eldredge !Sts. to Inebriate Asylum ; and on Washington 8t. Railroads. — The Erie, to N. Y. in 214 M., to Buffalo in 208 M. ; the Del., Lack. & Western, to N. Y. in 210 M., to Oswego in 115 M. ; the Albany and Susquehanna, to Albany iu 142 M. Bin^j;hamton was named after Wm. Bingham (of Phila.), who owned large* tract.s'of land in this region. It was settled late, and became a city in 1S67. The hill-county of Broome was first visited by white men when Clinton's army trav- ersed it in 1779. They encamped near Binghamton, and destroyed an Indian village. The fir.s't settler in the co. was Capt. Leonard (of Plymouth, Mass.), wlio came in 1787, and was soon followed by other New-Englanders, who occupied the intervales of the Chenango. The chief village was Union (9 M. from Bingham- ton), where a hotel was built and the American Constellation newspaper was stalled (1800) ; but Union retrograded alter Binghain, with shrewd strategy, founded a town at the confluence of the rivers. The county was owned by the Tuscarora Inntinental brigade arrived on the field while Hand was in line before the works, and was ordered to storm the heights on the r. of the advance. After a stubborn combat of 2 hours' duration, during which the American artillery kept up a continuous cannonade. Poor succeeded in reaching the summit of the ridge and flanking the hostile lines. The Indians then raised the retreating cry of Oonah ! Oonah ! anloys great fleets in transporting it from the W. In 1872, 62,000,000 bushels arrived here by lake, and 30,000,000 by rail- road, for whose storage there are 31 elevators, with a capacity of 7-8,000,000 bushels, and a transfer capacity of nearly 3,000,000 bushels per day. Tho coal traffic is also of great magnitude, and the receipts thereof in 1870 amounted to 236 Route 33. BUFFALO. 878,787 tons. Between 1857 and 1871 there were sent East from Buffalo, 2,783,186 cattle, 4,745,451 sheep, and 4,268,605 hogs. In 1S70 the entries and clearances (American and Canadian) at this port amounted to 10,625 vessels, with 4,157,793 tonnage, and 105,7'.>8 sailors. The manufactures of Butl'alo are of great extent and value, including innnense iron-works, rails, and car-wheels, niacliinery, leather (40 establishments), pianos, scales, ropes, furniture, ale and beer (40 breweries). The Erie Canal was built between 1S17 and 1825, and extends from Buffalo to Albany and \V. Troy (352 M.) by Rochester, Syracuse, and Utica. It has cost about .545,000,000, and has 655 ft. oi lockage in 71 locks (16 of which are found in the last 3 M. at Troy, and require 5 hrs. to pass). There are over 7,000 canal- boats, with 28,000 men, and 16,000 horses and mules. The boats cost $3-5,000 each, and make 6 round trips every season, each boat containing more than a freight train. They pass from Buffalo to Albany in 11 days, running night and day, the crews being divided into 2 watches. In the active season 150 boats readi the Hudson daily, and in the last 30 years the canal has transported over 50,000,000 tons of freight. In the year 1871-72, 0,003,214 tons of freight passed from the West to the seaboard, of which tlie N. Y. Central R. R. carried 2,250,000 tons; the Erie, 1,262,881 ; the Pennsylvania, 1,102,846 ; the Bait, and Oliio, 720,275 ; and thf Erie Canal, 3,087,212. Buffalo received its name from the fact that the early French travellers saw large herds of wild cattle here, and hence named it Bufflc. It was laid out in 1801 by the Holland Land Co. under the name of New Amsterdam, and owes the pecu- liar aiTangenient of its streets to the fact that it was surveyed by one of the Elli- cott brothers, who learned the art of obliquing streets across rectangular squares in laying out Wasliington City. This district was the theatre of stirring events during the War of 1812, — the chief of which were the sacking and burning of Buffalo by the Royal Scots Regiment (Dec. 30, 1813), and the battles about Fort Erie. This fort was captured in 1813 by the Americans, and again in 1814. After the heavy battles at Chippewa and Niagara Falls, the American army fell back to this point and strengthened the defences. The British army advanced to and besieged Fort Erie, and after a long cannonade made a determined night attack on several points. The assault on Towson's battery was repulsed by tlie 21st U. S. regulars, after 5 successive charges, during which the hostile ranks were swept with canister. On the right a force of British veterans succeeded in scaling the parapet under a tremendous fire, and held the bastion against repeated attacks of overwhelming American forces. The bastion was finally blown up, with all its defenders, and the fort oi)ened a general cannonade on all sides, upon which the assault was given up. The British lost 221 men killed, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners, and the American loss was 84. Sept. 17, 1814, the Americans made a sortie in force upon the dangerously advanced i>arallcls of the besiegers, and un- der cover of a dense fog 2,000 men\swept over and through the British intrench- ments, spiking their guns and inflicting a loss on them of nearly 1,000 men. The hostile army soon abandoned its cami)s and retired by night to Chippewa. Only 2 ho'uses remained in Buffalo after the British attack in 1813, but its re- building began in 1815, and in 1818 the IValJc-in-thc-Water, the first steamer on Lake Erie, was built at Black Rock. The harbor was constructed by the citizens in 1820, and in 1827 the U. S. Gov't built the piers. The city has continued to grow in wealth and poi>ulation since the completion of the Erie Canal (1825). In 1820 it had 2,095 inhabitants ; in 1840, 18,213 ; in 1860, 81,129 ; in 1870, 117,178 ; and iu 1874 (estimated), 160,000. The Lake Shore and Michigan SoiUhern R. R. runs W. from Buffalo to Dunkirk, 40 M. ; Erie, 88 ; Painesville, 154 ; Cleveland, 183 ; Toledo, 296 ; and Chicago, 540 (20-22 hrs.). Fare from Buffalo to Chicago, $15.50. The train runs S. from Buffalo, near the lake, but not generally in sight of it. Beyond Hamburgh-on-the-Lake, it passes Angola, and crosses Cattaraugus Creek at Irving. At Dunkirk (see page 231) the Erie Railway comes in from the E.. and the Dunkirk, Wan-en and Pittsburgh R. R. from the S. At Brocton., the Buffalo, Corry, and Pittslnirgh R. R. comes in from the S. The train now passes the populous village of Westfield, and enters Pennsylvania beyond the sta,- tion of Ripley, traversing the town of North East, about 1 M. from Lake Erie. North East Borough (Dnm^nn Hnvsp) has 2,000 inhabitants, and is situated among extensive vineyards. The South Shore vineyards are ^ M. N., and produce 20,000 CHAUTAUQUA LAKE. Route 84. 237 gallons of wine j'early. Beyond the hamlets of Harbor Creek and Wesleyville the city of Erie is entered. The line tlien follows the lake shore, and at a short dis- taiice beyond Fairview it enters the .State of Ohio. 34. New York to Ohio. By the Erie and the Atlantic and Great Western Railways. The Erie Railway from New York to Salamanca, see pages 219-231. The Atlantic and Great Western Railway runs W. from Salamanca, and is one of the main first-class routes to the Western States. Stations. —Salamanca, 413 M. from New York ; Red House, 420 ; Steamburg, 425 ; R;indolph, 431 ; Kennedy, 438 ; Jamestown, 447 ; Ashville, 454 ; Panama, 458 ; Grant, 461 ; Freehold, 464 ; Columbus, 471 ; Corry, 474 ; Union, 485 ; Mill Village, 492 ; Millers, 498 ; Cambridge, 501 ; Venango, 505 ; Saegertown, 509 ; Meadville, 515 ; Suttons, 523 ; Evansburg, 529 ; Atlantic, 534 ; Greenville, 542 : Shenango, 544 ; Clarksville, 548 ; Orangeville, 554 ; Akron, 615 ; Marion, 717 ; Dayton, 802 ; Cincinnati, 861 ; St. Louis, 1,201. The train follows the valley of the Allegany River S. W. from Sala- manca, then runs through the forest towns of Cold Spring, Randolph, and Poland; enters the Conewango Valley, and reaches Jamestown (Gifford House ; Atnerican ; Jamestown). This is a thriving town of 5,336 in- habitants, with 8 churches (2 Swedish), 3 banks, and 3 newspapers, while large factories are located on the rapids of the Chautauqua Outlet. There are also considerable exports of dairy products, and much of the freight- ing hence is done by boats on the Conewango and Allegany Rivers. The town was settled by men of New England (in 1812), and was named in honor of its proprietor, Judge Jatnes Prendergast. Chautauqua Lake is 18 M. long and 1-3 M. wide; and is surrounded by liills 5-600 ft. liigh. It is 1,291 ft. above the sea (the highest navigable water on the continent), and the name signifies " a foggy place," indicating one of its characteristics. A steamer runs semi-daily from Jamestown up the out- let and lake, to Mayville (22 M. ), passing the hamlet of Fluvanna on the r., as the lake is entered. After running N. W. 8 M., Bemus Point seems to close the passage in advance, but is rounded by a narrow strait which, after 2-3 M. of sinuous course, leads to another open reach of the lake stretching from Magnolia (W. shore) N. W. in 7-8 M. to Mayville {Chautauqua Lake House ; Fox House). This hamlet is the cai)ital of Chautauqua County, and has 3 churches and 2 newspapers. It is favorably situated near the head of the lake (and on the B., C & P. R. R.), and has many summer visitors. The train runs S. W. from Jamesto\^^^, and Pennsylvania is entered beyond Ashville and Panama. At Corry tlie line intersects the Alle- gheny Valley, Buffalo, Corry and Pittsburgh, and Philadelphia and Erie R. Rs., and its course lies near the latter road for 12 M., when it diverges to the S. W. and passes down the French Creek Valley to Venango and Saegertown, in the famous Penn. oil district. Meadville {McHenry Hoii.se ; Colt House ; Rupp's) is pleasantly located in a valley on tlie E. side of Venango River, and lias large machine-works and woollen 238 Route 35. MEADVILLE. mills, together with the workshops of the A. & G. W. Railway. The busi- ness part of the city is substantially built, and there are 2 banks and 15 churches. The pleasant Greendale Cemetery is in the suburbs. There is a small Opera-House, and a public library (in -Porter's Block). The city was founded and fortified by Gen. David Mead (in 1789) on the old war- trail between Forts Venango and Lebojuf. In 181G it had 400 inhabitants; in 1860, 3,702; and in 1870, 7,103. Allegheny College is situated on a hill N. of the city, and has 3 buildings, 7 professors, and 130 students. It was opened in 1816 under the care of the Presbyterian Church, and was built up by the exertions of its president, Timothy Alden, D. D. He se- cured mucli aid from New England, and brouglit here the private libraries of Judge Winthrop and Isaiah Thomas. He procured also the large and valuable library of Dr. Bentley (of Salem, Mass. ), whose portrait is now in the hall of the Allegheny Literary Society. In 1833 the then languish- ing college was transferred to the care of the Methodist Church, and is now in a thriving condition. Ladies are admitted to the full course. The Meadville Theological School was established in 184-4, and pei'tains to moderate Unitarianism, It has 7 professors, and a library of 9,000 vol- umes. A branch R. R. runs S. E. from Meadville down the valley of French Creek to Franklin (28 M.) and Oil City (36 M.). The train runs S. from Meadville, and soon leaves the French Creek, turning W. to Evansburg, 2 M. S. of tlie hamlet of Evansburg {Lake House), which is on the S. shore of Conneaut Lake, a beautiful sheet of water 4 x 2 M. in extent. It abounds in fish, and is famed for an abundance of double white pond-lilies. Running now to the S. W. near the Erie Canal of Penn., the line soon crosses the Jamestown and Frank- lin Div. of the Lake Shore R. R. At the populous borough of Greenville it meets the Erie and Pittsburgh and the Shenango and Allegheny R. Rs., then passes out across the town of Pymatuning, and enters, the State of Ohio beyond the station of Orangeville, 307 M. N. E. of Cincinnati. 35. New York to Scranton and Oswego. The Delaware Water Gap. By the Delaware, Lackawanna and Western R. R. , from the foot of Barclay St. or Christopher St., N. Y. City, to the terminal station on the N. J. shore; thence to Scranton, in 6^ hrs ; to Bingham ton, in 10 hrs. ; to Utica, in 13 hrs. ; to Oswego, in 15^ hrs. Fares from N. Y. to Orange, SOc. ; to Mori-istown, 80c. ; to Hackettstown, !$ 1.70 ; to Easton, .^2.25. Stations. — New York ; Hoboken, 2 M. (Boonton Branch. Kingsland, 5 ; Rutherfurd Park, 9; Delawanna, 11; Passaic, 12; Clifton, 14; Paterson, 17; Beavertown, 25 ; Whitehall, 27 ; Montville, 29 ; Boonton, 32 ; Denville, 37). Main Line. Hoboken, 2 ; Newark, 10 ; Orange, 13 ; S. Orange, 15 ; Milbiirn, 19 ; Summit, 22 : Chatham, 25 ; Madison, 27 ; Morristown, 31 ; Morris Plains, 34 ; Denville, 38 ; Rookaway, 40 ; Dover, 43 ; Drakesville, 48 ; Stanhope, 53 ; Waterloo, 56 ; Hack- ettstown,' 62 ; Port Mnrray, 68 ; Washington, 71 (Easton, 85) ; Oxford Furnace, 75 ; Bridgeville, 80 ; Manunka Chunk, 82 ; Delaware, 84 ; Portland, 87 ; Water Gap, 92 ; Stroudsburg, 96 ; Henry\'ille, 104 ; Oakland, 109 ; Forks ; Tobyhauna, 122 ; ORANGE. Route 35. 239 Gonldsboro', 128 ; Moscow, 136; Duiining's, 130; Scran ton, 149 (branch to North- umberland, 229) ; xVbiugton, 159 ; Factnrjnille, 164 ; Nicholson, 170 ; Hopbottora, 176 ; Montrose, 1S3 ; New Milford, 190 ; Great Bend, 196 ; Binghamton, 210 (branch to Utica, 305) ; Chenango, 217 ; Chenango Forks, 221 ; "Whitney's Point, 231 ; Lisle, 233 ; Marathon, 240 ; State Bridge, 245 ; Cortland, 254 ; Homer, 257 ; Preble, 264 ; Tully, 269 ; Apulia, 271 ; Onativia, 276 : Jamesville, 283 ; Syracuse, 290 ; Baldwinsville, 302 ; Lamson's, 308 ; Fulton, 314 ; Oswego, 325. Morris and Essex Division. To Easton, 85 M. ; trains in 4 - 4^ hrs. The passenger leaves New York by ferry-boat, and takes the train at Hoboken, whence the Bergen Tunnel is traversed. (A new tunnel is being cut at great expense for the Morris and Essex R. R.) The Hackensack River and wide marshes are crossed, and beyond the Passaic River tlie train stops at Newark (see Route 37). A branch railway runs hence through the popxilous town of Bloomfield, with its paper and hat factories, to Montclair, 6 M. N. W. Just beyond Newark the train enters Orange {Park House ; Central Hotel), a city of 15,000 inhabitants. The streets are wide and well shaded, and contain many costly villas of New York merchants. Near the Orange station are the buildings of the Pres. Church, High School, and Library. Horse-cars run to Newark (3 M.), and there are 2 railroads to New York (12 M.), affording frequent and quick access to that city. To the W. is Llewelyn Park, a district of villas and elegant mansions arranged about a pleasant park called the Ramble. Above this point, and W. of the city, is the long ridge of Orange Mt., on whose crest are the estates of Gens. MoClellan, Marcy, and other eminent men. There are beautiful views from various points on the ridge, — especially from the vicinity of Eagle Rock, whence N. Y. City, with its bay and suburbs, is overlooked. Passing S. through Montrose {* S. Orange Mt. Hoicse); S. Orange, near the Catholic college of Seton Hall : and Maplewood, with their homes of N. Y. merchants, the line turns W. and crosses the N. J. W. R. R. near Milburn. With Springfield Mt. on the 1. and the Short Hills on the r., the train ascends long grades to Summit {* Summit House; Pierre House), a summer resort on the Second Mt. On the r. are seen Boonton, Chatham, and Morristown ; and on the I. are Elizabeth and the fertile plains of Union County, with Springfield near at hand in the S. E. June 23, 1780, 5-6,000 British troops, with 20 cannon, advanced from Eliza- bethtown to Springfield, intending to cut through the discouraged Continentals and break up the camps at Morristown. They were met here, at the passes of the Short Hills , by Gen. Greene and the N. J. militia, and a sharp engagement ensued. The enemy carried the village of Springfield and destroyed it ; but the Americans formed on the Short Hills and checked the farther advance of the ex- pedition, which retreated hastily to Elizabethtown. Recrossing the N. J W. R. R. and the Passaic River, beyond Chatham the train descends through the hills to Madison, the seat of the Drew 240 Route 35. MORRISTOWN. Theological Seminary, a Methodist institi\tion occupying several small buildings in a tree-studded park of 200 acres. Beyond the station near the Convent of St. Elizabeth, the train reaches Morristown {Park House ; Grand View ; U. S. ; Mansion), the capital of Morris County. It is beautifully situated on a high plateau near the VVhippany River, and is a favorite summer resort for New-Yorkers. Tlie new and superb State Insane Asylum is on Pigeon Mountain. It cost $3,000,000, and is built of granite, in semi-Gothic architecture. On a high knoll back of the court-house are the remains of the ancient Revolutionary Fort Nonsense ; and the pretty Lake Speedwell is near the village. The park is adonied'with a soldiers' monument ; and h, M. E. is the ancient building of Washington'' s Head-quarters, now owned by the State. In the winter of 1777-78 the American army was encamped about Morristown, the main force being at Spring Valley (the Indian Lowantica), S. E. of the village. On the Short Hills, by Cliatliam, were guarded beacons; and by Summit were strong picket-lines, to watch the British in N. Y. The head-quarters were on the village park, and here Washington was initiated into the Masonic order. In the winter of 1779 - SO the army was again quartered about Morristown ; and Wash- ington occnpied the Ford luansion (now sacredly preserved), about which his body-guard was encamped. The main body was cantonned toward Mendham ; and the soldiers were engaged in building Fort Nonsense, to avert the evil conse- quences of idleness. Tlie sutTerings from cold and hunger were intense ; but "as an army, they bore it Avitli the most heroic patience." The forces were reviewed with great pomp, in Ajiril, 1780, by the ambassadors of France and Spain, the latter of whom, Don Juan de Miralles, died here soon afterward, and received a stately burial in the village churchyard. The only i-evolt in the continental army took place here early in 1780, when the Penn. line (2,000 soldiers), being unpaid and held in service after their time had expired, rose against their officers and marched to Princeton, where they were paid and disbanded by order of Congre.ss. The train runs N. from Morristown, with Watnong Mt. on the 1., passes Morris Plains, and meets the Boonton Branch at Denville. The Boonton Branch. The through express trains run over this route. Passengers leave N. Y. by ferry from Barclay St. or Christopher St.; and beyond the Bergen Tunnel the train diverges to the r. from the Morris and Essex R. R., and runs N. W. across the marshes, leaving Snake Hill on the 1. Cros.sing the Hackensack and Passaic Rivers, several rural stations are passed, and the line reaches Paterson (see page 220). Thence the course is to the W., and into the highlands. Passing along the S. verge of the Pompton Plains, with the Towakhow Mt. on the 1., the Morris Canal is followed to Boonton {U. S. Hotel), a village of 4,000 inhabitants. It is situated among craggy and rugged highlands, and is the seat of several iron- furnaces, which are siipplied from the prolific mines in the vicinity. There are large nail-works and rolling-mills near Boonton, and the Morris Canal here rises over inclined planes. The ancient hamlet of Parcipany is 4 M. S. , and the Rockaway Valley is in the N. W. The train runs W. from Boonton to Denville, where it passes on to the rails of the Morris LAKE HOPATCONG. Route 35. 241 and Essex R. R. At Rockaway a branch track runs N. to the extensive Hibernia and Beach Glen mines. Station, Dover {Mansion House), a small city engaged in the iron manufacture. A branch track runs S. through a mining country, and passing Ferromonte, Ironia, and the Succasuna Plains, to Chester, a pleasant village among the hills (summer board at the Young Ladies' Institute). Beyond Dover another branch runs N. to the mines at Mt. Hope ; and the Brookland Mts. are seen on the r. as the train passes along the Rockaway River to Drakesville, whence stages run 4 M. N. to Lake Hopatcong, a loftily situated lake (720 ft. above the Hudson) among the Brookland Mts. It is 9 M. long and 4 M. wide, and has 2 islands (Canfield and Halsey), which are much visited. The waters contain pickerel, perch, and salmon-trout, and the shores are lined with forests (among whicli are iron-mines). From South- ard's Peak the country is overlooked from the Bloomfteld Mts. to the Delaware Water Gap. The name Hopjatcong means " Stone over Water," and was probably given by the Indians on account of an ancient stone causeway (now submerged) leading from a large Indian village to one of the islands; but the lake is locally known as Brookland Pond. 2 small steamers ply on its waters, and summer visitors are accommodated by several hotels {Lake Hopatcong House ; Lake Vieio, etc.). Station, Port Moms, in the gap between Schooley's Mt. and Brookland Mt., an im- portant point for the trans-shipment of coal, and near long inclined planes on the Morris Canal, up which the boats are drawn by powerful stationary engines. The Ogden Mine R. R. is being built from this point along Lake Hopatcong to the iron-mines, 15 M. N. From StanJwpe station stages run 2^ M. N. to Lake Senecawana (Budd's Lake), a beautiful sheet of water well up among the highlands. It is nearly round, and is 3^ M. in circumference, lined with foliage and arable slopes, and affords pretty mt. views. Tlie clear waters are the abode of many tish, and the pursuit of pickerel is a favorite pastime here, while many pond-lilies are found over the shallows. The lake is 1,200 ft. high, and its secluded beauty, together with the ease of access, have made it a favorite summer resort (* Forest House, 200 guests, |3 a day, $15-21 a week). Lake Hopatcong is visited from this point, and Schooley's Mt. is 8 M. distant. The train passes from Stanhope to Waterloo, a small hamlet S. E. of Pohatcong Mt., whence the Sussex R. R. runs N. to Newton {Cochran House; Willard House), the capital of Sussex County, On and about the public square are 5 churches and tlie Court House, and to the W. is the Collegiate Institute. By reason of its lofty situation and clear air, Newton is much visited in summer. The Sussex R. R. passes on to Franklin, where it meets the Midland R. R. (see page 215). Leaving Alamuche Mt. on the r., tlie line runs S. W. down the narrow and fertile Musconetcong Valley alongside of the Morris and Essex Canal, 11 ' P 242 Route 35. SCHOOLEY'S MOUNTAIN. to Hackettstown {American House; Warren), a borough of 3,000 in- habitants, iu a rich farming country. Schooley's Mountain is 3-4 M. S. E. of tliis place (stages frequently), and is about 1,200 ft. high. In a glade on the W. declivity, f M. from the hotels, and near the summit, is a celebrated chalybeate spring, containing carbonated oxide of iron, muriates of soda, lime, and magnesia, sulphate of lime, etc. The water is pleasant to the taste, and is a line tonic, being also beneficial in cases of dyspeptic and calculous troubles. The discharge of the water is small, and the spring is protected by a neat canopy. The purity of the highland air, and tlie picturesque scenery in the vicinity, attract many summer visitors to this point. The * Heath House and * Bcimont Hall are the pi'incipal hotels, and are largely patronized by New-Yorkers. Malvern Hill is seen to the W. of Hackettstown, as the train follows the canal and river to the S. W. Beyond the hamlet of Port Murray, it reaches Washington ( Union Hotel), a pretty and prosperous village in a fertile farming country. The Morris and Essex R. R. runs thence 14 M. S. W. by Stewartsville to Phillipsburg and Easton. The train now passes on to the rails of the Del., Lack. & Western R. R., and runs N. W. to Oxford Furnace and Bridgeville; then traverses the Voss Gap Tunnel through Manunka Chunk Mt. (1,000 ft. long) and meets the Belvidere Delaware R. R. (Route 44) at Manunka Chunk. At Delaware station time is usually given for lunch, and then the train crosses the Delaware River and enters the State of Pennsylvania. Portland station is opposite the N. J. hamlet of Columbia, and the line passes on by Slateford (large slate quarries), with the Blue Mts. closing in ahead. The Water Gap is now entered, and is traversed on a narrow gallery between the river and the mt. (the views on the r. are preferable). The train soon stops at the station for the Delaware Water Gap. Hotels. — * Water Gap House, on the summit of Sunset Hill, a new house for 300 guests, $ 4 a day, ;;? 21 a weelc ; * Kittatiny House, $ 18 a week ; and several sum- mer boarding-liouses, — the Glenwood, above the village, the Mountain House ($ 10 - 12 a week), the Analomink, Maple Cottage, Cataract, Highland Dell, and others. Bailroads. —To New York, by the Morris & Essex R. R. (without change, in 3.^ hrs.) ; fare, $ 2.55. To Pliiladelphia, in 4 hrs. ; fare, $ 2.95. Row-boats and guides at the landing below the Kittatiny House. Photographs of the scenery at Graves's, near the Kittatiny. At the Delaware Water Gap the Delaware River passes through a nar- row defile of the Kittatiny Mts., which attain a height of 1,600 ft. on either side. As the stream flows down from the Minisink Valley and reaches the great barrier of the Blue Ridge, it makes a sudden bend to the E. and passes between the craggy portals of the Gap, where its waters are 60 ft. deep. The Indians called the country N. of this point the Minisink (meaning "the water is gone "), evidently in reference to some DELAWARE WATER GAP. Route 35. 243 ancient tradition of a lake-like expanse of water occupying the place. The existence of high marine terraces, alluvial hills, and the water-worn rocks on the heights, seem to favor this belief. There are several theories as to the formation of the Gap, — that the ridge at this place sank down into immense caverns; that the lake burst the barrier by its pressure; or that the mountain -dam was slowly Avorn away by a Niagara-like cata- ract. Of late years the Water Gap has become a popular summer resort, owing to the unique character of its scenery, and to its vicinity to the two chief cities of the Republic. Blockhead Mt. is a long secondary range on the E. shore, which lies across and partially hides the Gap from the hotels. The best near view of the chasm is gained by descending the river in a boat to Mather's Spring (1^ M. from the hotels; on the N. J, shore). The Cold Air Cave and Benner's Spring are each If M. from the hotels (by river) ; and In- dian Ladder Bluff, the Point of Rocks, and tlie Slate Factory are oft- visited localities along the shores. The Indian Ladder Bluff is a promon- tory at the foot of Mt. Tammany, over which the ancient Indian path was carried by means of steps cut in the rock and a tree laid against one of the precipitous sides. Mt. Minsi is on the W. (Penn.) side of the Gap, and Mt. Tammany is on the E. (N. J.). The latter summit is ascended (2| M. from the hotels) by a rugged path beginning near the Slate Factory, and gives a broad view. A suspension-bridge 1,500 ft. higli is to be built from Minsi to Tammany. This mt. is named in honor of Tammany, or Tamanend, an ancient Delaware cliief, who was renowned for wisdom, virtue, and charity. Howbeit without the sanction of the church, this pagan sage was canonized during the last century, and was proclaimed the patron saint of America. His festival was on the first of May, when numerous societies which bore his name and admired his virtues were wont to assemble in their wigwams to smoke the calumet of peace and pass the day in merry-making. These societies afterward became political bodies, in which capacity one of them has acquired a wide notoriety. Pleasant views of the river and Gap are gained from the road near the hotels, and also from the Water Gap Hotel on Sunset Hill (froni whose tower Cherry Valley and the Shawnee Hills are overlooked). A few rods distant from either hotel is the small pool called Lake Lenape, from which the Caldeno Creek flows down by the Kittatiny House. Turning to the \. from the lake, and following a path marked by white lines on rocks and trees, the hill is ascended by a steep and devious path to Cooper's Cliff, 500 ft. above the river. The white lines conduct along the E. edge of the ridge to Table Rock (| M. from the hotel), whence extensive views are afforded. Thence the white lines lead in \ M. to the upper glen of Cal- deno Creek, which slides down Table Rock for 100 ft. at an angle of 45°. Among the trees and mosses of this glen is the deep rock-basin known as Diana's Bath, below which are the Caldeno Falls. The summit of Mt. Minsi is 3 M, from the hotels, and commands the 244 Route 35. DELAWARE WATER GAP. most extensive prospect in this district, — embracing the N. valley with its surrounding mts. and bright river (with the Pokono and Schooley's Mts. in the distance), and also the great plains and ranges to the S., with many villages and farms. This peak is often visited, and is reached by a broad forest-path which passes behind the Kittatiny bowling-alley, and is marked by red lines on rocks and trees. After crossing a grassy meadow and ascending a low ridge, a path (marked with blue lines) diverges to the 1. to the cliff called Lover'' s Leap (1 M. from the hotels). The tradi- tion states that. Winona, a beautiful princess of the Delawares, leaped from this cliff and was dashed to pieces on the rocks below ; being heart- sick because her love for a young European was not duly reciprocated. Tiie * view of the Gap from this point is held to be the finest, and forms a favorite study for artists. \ M. beyond the entrance to the Lover's Leap, a white-lined path diverges to the r. to the Hunter's Spring, a sequestered forest-fountain. The Mt. Minsi (red-lined) path continues beyond the entrance to this point, and the next path to the 1. (yellow-lined) leads to Prospect Rock (1| M. from the hotels). The view to the N. is broad and pleasing. 1^ M. beyond is the summit of Mt. Minsi, with its view over 3,000 square M., in 5 counties. Rebecca's Bath, Eureka Falls, and Mo.ss Grotto are on a brook which crosses the road to tlie Gap, \ M. S. of the hotels. At the entrance to the village are the Methodist Church (r.) and the Church of the Mts. (1.), and Mt. Caroline rises behind the latter to a height which overlooks Cherry Valley and the Shawnee Hills. Tlie Lover's Retreat is on the cliff over the Kittatiny House, and is much fre- quented on account of its retired beauty and pleasant views over the river. Cherry Valley runs W. at right angles with the Delaware, and is 35 M. long, its upper portion being called Aquonshicola. Stroudsburg is 4 M. from the hotels, and midway the long ridge called Fox Hill is crossed, yielding panoramic valley-views. There is a pleasant drive up the Valley for 6 M. to Crystal Hill. The Buttermilk and the Marshall Falls are respectively 3 M. and 7 M. distant, and at high water are worthy of a visit. Transue's K)iob, on the Shawnee Hills, 6 M. distant, is a tall diluvial pyramid which commands extensive views, and Castle Rock is in the same range of hills (4 M. distant). The Lake of the Mt. is situated on the summit of one of the New Jersey ridges, 4 M. from the hotels, and is f M. long. The circuit of the N. J. Hills is a favorite drive, and is made by ferrying across the river 3 M. below the Gap, following the river- road on the 1. bank for 6 M. N., and then recrossing at Shawnee village. The distance is about 12 M. The valley of the Minisink is sometimes ascended by carriages, over firm and level roads leading through pleasing scenery. 10 M. over the river-road, and 3 M. over the Shawnee Hills, leads to Bushkill ( Perry's STROUDSBURG. Route 35. 245 Hotel), near which are the Bushkill Falls (96 ft higli), and the Winona Fall, with its 5 sister-cascades. 13 M. beyond Bushkill is Dinyman's Ferry (High-Falls House), near some pretty waterfalls, and 8 M. farthcj- is Milford, a favorite summer-resort, 8 M. from Port Jervis. The Blntr House is a new summer-hotel, commanding a grand view of the valley. The Minisink Avas the Indian name for the Delaware Valley N. of the Water Gap, and this region was inhabited by the Minsi tribe of the Leni Lenape (or Delaware) nation. They were a brave, honest, and religious people, and received the Moravian niissionar'ies gladly. In 1725 white settlers entered the valley, and by a series of discreditable transactions acquired much land from the natives. In 1742 the chief Teedyuscung gathered the remnants of the Delaware tribes and led them to Wyoming, whence they migrated to Ohio some years later. Settlers en- tered the Minisink from the Hudson Valley and from Philadelphia, and the Shaw- nee Hills were occupied by a colony of Germans. In 1730 the Gap was traversed by provincial officers, and in 175^3 a house was built here by M. Dutot, a French gentleman. In 1800 a road was built through the Gap, although most of the traffic to Philadelphia was done by Durham boats, — long and narrow vessels like canal-boats, propelled by poles. The river navigation has long since ceased, and the railroad forms an easier route of supplies for the increasing population of the valley. " The masses of naked rocks, on the E. side of the river toward the S. gorge, rising to an elevation of 800- 1,000 ft., in some places as upright an?3.50), on Broad St., near the Union League and Opera-House. Near the river are several inexpensive hotels, — the Ridgway (^!2), at the foot of Market St. ; the Arch St. House, and others. The Eagle (comer of Vine and 3d Sts.); the Bald Eagle (3d St., near Callowhill) ; the J51ack Bear, and others similarly named and located, are inex- pensive houses which are muih frequented by Pcnnsylvanians. There are many first-class boarding-houses in the city, especially on upper Chestnut, Arch, San- som, and other well-located streets. The prices are much less than those of the hotels. Restaurants. — *Tlie Continental Hotel Cafe, Chestnut St., near 9th ; ♦Green's, 731 Chestnut St., near 7th; Belcher's, Mitchell's, and others, near Independence Hall. There are many restaurants for merchants, etc., in the riverward streets and on or near Chestnut St. Confectionery and ices may be ob- tained at the Continental ; also at Vansant's (836 Chestnut St.), Whitman's (812 and 100-i Chestnut St.), and elsewhere. Carriages are found at the railroad stations, and at stands throughout the city. Fares, for 1 passenger for a distance of 1 M, or less, 75c. ; 2 passengers, §1.25 ; each additional one, 25c. For 1 passenger, 2 M. or less, 81.25 ; 2 passen- gers, S 1.75 ; each additional one, 25c., — and 50c. for every mile bej'ond. Car- riages l)y the hour, for 1 - 2 persons, ^1.50; 25c. for each additional one. For children between 5 and 14 years old, half-price is charged ; younger children are carried free, and also 1 piece of baggage to each passenger. Unless otherwise specified, the fares are paid by the mile (1 M. meaning 12 blocks of 100 numbers on numbered streets). Horse-Cars. — The horse-car service of Phila. is unequalled elsewhere in the world, and is performed on 22 lines of track. The fare is 7c. ; and points on other connecting lines may be reached by transfer- tickets (9c.), which should be called for on paying the fare. Full lists of the routes may be found in the city directory, at the offices of the hotels. Among the principal lines mny be named those on Market St., leading to the Penn. R. R. station ; to the Insane Hospital and Had- dington ; the Ridge Avenue line, to Girard College, Laurel Hill Cemetery, and Manayimk ; the 2d St. line, running S. to the Navy Yard ; the Kensington lines, on 2d and 3d Sts. ; and from Richmond to Frankford ; on Darby Ave. S. W. to the open country ; on South St. to the Naval Asylum ; on 10th St. to the Moyamensing Prison ; the lines on 7th and 9th Sts., or on 13th and 15th Sts., to the Baltimore Depot ; out Walnut St. to 41st St. (near the Insane Hospital) ; and on Germantown Ave. to Germantown. The cars on Chestnut St., E. of the Schuylkill, all run towards the Delaware. Market St. is the great thoroughfare of horse-car travel, and intersects the lines running N. and S. Ferries — fares, 5c. — from the foot of Market St. to Market St., Camden, and to the W. Jersey R. R. station ; from Vine St. to Camden, and the Camden & Atlantic R. R. station; from South St. to Kaighn's Point, Camden; from South St. to Gloucester, N. J. ; from Shackamaxon St. (Kensington) to Cooper's Point, Camden ; (rom South St. to Red Bank, N. J. (lOc). Amusements. — The * Academy of Music (comer of Broad and Locust Sts.)» ]□[ 'lJ' 31 ; Continenieu F. La fterre E. Cirard P. Cnionnadt. 3E. St. Cloud F. Bingham E. American F. WashingltH F. Irving F. St. Lawrtrut E. Cuy'! r. St. Elmo F. Mtrckanet F. i\idgcu'a/ F. G. EagU F, R. R. STATIONS. S4. N. Y. [Kfnsin^tvrt ). G. a, 8j. N. Y. and PMsiuTgli [,W. Phila.) C. 5. 86. hcthUhm : F. a. S7, Baltimore and Wa:/iin^Oft. . , » ,E. 7, 88 Reading F. K e! 4. S9. Narriit-jwn , . .F, 4. 90. Camden and Apttoy H. ». 91. Atlantic City G. 4. oj Caft May H. 6 PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 263 is the largest opera-house in the U. S., and is devoted chiefly to operas and musical entertainments of a high order. Lectures are sometimes given here, and brilliant Imlls are also celebrated. The Walnut St. Theatre (corner Walnut and 9th Sts.) has a fine auditorium, and is devoted to drama. Mrs. John Drew's *Arch St. Theatre is on Arch St., near 6th ; Fox's New American Theatre is on Chestnut St., near 10th ; and Wood's Mu-:eum is at tlie corner of Arch and 9th Sts. The Chestnut St. Theatre is above 12th St., and has a fine hall. Minstrels entertain- ments are aff'orded at the Arch St. Opera House (above J 0th St.; Simmons and Slocum's troupe), and at the opera-house on 11th St., near Chestnut (Carncross and Dixey's troupe). Varieties, on 7th St., between Arch and Market Sts. Classic music and concerts of a high order are given at tiie Musical Fund Hall, on Locust St., below 9th (a favorite hall, seating 2,500' persons) ; also at Concert Hall, on Chestnut St., above 12th St, ; and at Horticultural Hall and the Academy. Reading-Kooms. — * Mercantile Library, on 10th St., near Chestnut St.; the Phila. Library, corner of 5th and Library Sts.; Y. M. C. A. 15th and Chestnut St. ; the Apprentices' Library, corner of 5th and Arch Sts. ; the German Library, on 7th, near Chestnut St.; the Franklin Institute, at 155 7th St. (10,000 volumes); and at the hotels. Billiards at Green's, 731 Chestnut St. ; the American Hotel ; and the Continental Hotel. Art Collections. — Besides the public galleries, thci'e are fine collections of pictures in llie sales-galleries of Haseltine (1125 Chestnut St.), Earle (816 Chest- nut St.), Hall (910 Chestnut St.), and others. The private collections of Phila. are renowned for their richness and value, and consist (for the most part) of the best works of the modern French school, with numerous examples of the fore- most artists of America. They are usually ojien on 2 days of the week to visitors provided with cards of admission, which may be obtained by application to the proprietors (in person or by letter), on presentation of letters of introduction or other credentials properly recognizing the worthiness of the applicant. Mr. Henry C. Gibson (1612 Walnut St.) has 100 choice pictures, disi)layed in 3 rich Pompeian cabinets, which are adorned with statuary and objects of vertn. This gallery contains fine paintings by Calix, Courbet, Isabey, the Bonheurs, Diaz, Zamacois, Couture, Rothermel, Troyon. the Achenbachs, Tissot, Calame, Gerome, Meissonier, Fortuny, Daubigny, etc., and the celebrated work of Cabanel, *Tlie Birth of Venus. James L. Claghorn, Esq. (on W. Logan Square), has about 120 pictures, representing the chief modern artists of both hemispheres, — Escosura, Daubigny, Prudhon. Bmiguereau, Schreyer, Zo, Rigaud, R. Bonheur, Blanchard, Meissonier, the Achenbachs, Herzog, Flamm, Knaus, Stange, Voltz, Weber, Koekoek, Rossi, Zamacois, Madon, Webb, Pyne, Tadema, Boughton, Holland, Hamilton, Rothermel, Gignoux, T. B. Read, Cropsey, Gifford, Leutze, Casilear, Dnrand, Church, Bierstadt, and others. Mr. Claghorn has also the best collection of engravings in America, numbering many thousand, and including rare and quaint works of great value. The galleries of the late Joseph Hamson, Jr. (E. Rittenhouse Square), Wm. B. Bement, A. E. Borie, and many others have rare treasures of French and American art. Bailroadg. — The Pennsylvania, to New York in 90 M., to Pittsburgh in 354 M., from the corner of 31st and Market Sts. Local trains to Bustleton, Trenton, etc., from Kensington ; Camden & Amboy Division by ferry to the Camden station, from the foot of Market St. To Erie and Buffalo, by the Phila. & Erie R. R., from 31st and Market Sts. The Phila. & Reading R. R., from the comer of 13th and Callowhill Sts., to Reading (58 M.) and Pottsville {9-3 M.) ; the Germantown & Norristown R. R., from the corner of 9th and Green Sts., to Norristown (17 M.) ; the N. Penn. R. R., from the corner of Berks and American Sts., to Bethlehem (.54 M.); the West Chester & Phila. R. R., from the corner of 31st and Chestnut Sts., to West Chester (28 M.). The Camden & Atlantic R. R., by ferry from the foot of Vine St. to the station in Camden, to Atlantic, City (59 M.) ; the West Jersey R. R., by ferry from the foot of Market St. to the station in Camden, to Salem (43 M.) and Cape May (81 M.). The Phila. & Bal- timore Central R. R., from tlie corner of Broad and Prime Sts., to Port Deposit (71 M.) ; the Phila., Wilmington & Baltimore R. R., from the corner of Broad and Prime Sts., to Baltimore (98 M.). Steamships. — The American Line, for Queenstown and Liverpool every Thursday (fares, cabin, $75-100; intermediate, .$40, — in currency); the Red Star Line, for Antwerp weekly, carrjing the Belgian and U. S. mails (fares, first cabin, $90; second, $60; steerage, $30); for Havana and New Orleans fort- 264 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. 'lightly, from Pier 41 (foot of Green St.) ; for Savtonnah every Saturday at 8 a. si. (I'f-^r 41); for Charleston every Friday, from Pier 4 (below Arch St.); for Wilminoton, N. C, every Tuesday at 6 a. m., from Pier 41 ; for Norfolk and Richmoii.i every Wednesday and Saturday noon, from first wharf above Market St. ; for Alc.-andi'ia, Georgetown, and Washington (by the Chesapealve & Dela- ware Canal) e. -ry Wednesday and Saturday noon, from second wharf below Market St. ; for r>iltimore aiid Havre de Grace dailv, at high tide, 12 South Wharv^es ; for Bostoi. (48 hrs.) every Wednesday and Saturday, at 10 a. m., by the Winsor Line, fro.,> the Pine St. Wharf ; for Providence every Wednes- day and Saturday, by the Cij-dc Line, from Pier 3, North Wharves ; or by the AVinsor Line, every Saturday at :o a. m. ; for Hartford (by the Delaware and Raritan Canal and Long Island Souno> every Thursdav noon, from Pier 4, South Wharves ; for New York daily (in 24 hrs.;, from second wharf below Market St. ; also tri-weekly from Pier 19; for Albany ai.d Troy every Wednesday, from first wharf below Pine St. For Cai)e May tri-weekly (in summer) ; for BriUyo+nn at 4 p. m. Tuesdaj's and Fridays ; for Salem, Newcastle. Pennsgrove, and Delawai.- City, daily, from Arch St. Wharf; for Wilmington, Del., daily, from Chestnut St. Wi.,nrf and the pier be- low (at 3 and 5 p. m.) ; for Chester and Lazaretto daily, at 3 p. K., fr,,m Pier 8^ North Wharves ; for Red Bank, Billingsport, Bridgeport, and Chestei, daily at 3 p. M., from Arch St. Wliaif ; for Lepsio, Spruance, Port Penn, and LamoiviV?, tri-weekly from Arch St. Wharf. Tlie Edvin Forrest, from the Arch St. Wharf daily (with the tide), for the upper river-landings and Trenton (fare, 40c.); the John A. Warner, from the Chestnut St. Wharf semi-daily (at 2 and at G p. m.), for Riverton, Torresdale, Andalusia, Bevei'ly, Burlington, and Bristol (25c.); the Tvnlight, from the Chestnut St. Wharf semi-daily (7 A. M. and 3 p. M. ), for Bur- lington, Bristol, and the intermediate ports (2uc.). Philadelphia, tlie second city in point of population in the Western Hemisphere, and the foremost city in point of manufactures, lies betAveen the Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers, 6 M. from their confluence and about 96 M. from the ocean. The land toward the Delaware is generally level and but slightly elevated, while the W. and N. W, suburbs are located on rolling ground which is traversed by the deep valleys of the Schuylkill and the Wissahickon. The city is in latitude 39° 57' N. and longitude 75° 10' W. of Greenwich ; and is 87 M. from New York and 138 M. from Washington. The Delaware River at this point is-a deep and navi- gable stream f M, wide; and the Schuylkill River (on the W. ) descends hither from the coal-regions of Schuylkill County, 115 M. N. W. The commerce of Phila. is large and increasing, and is sei-ved by lines of steam- ships to Europe and the American coast; but the chief wealth of the city is in its immense manufacturing interests, which are favored by the com- parative cheapness of land and building materials and the vicinity of th great coal and iron districts. There are here 8,500 manufactories, with a capital of $ 205,000,000, served by 55,000 horse-power of steam and 5,000] horse-power of water. In 1870 these works were reported as producing $ 362,000,000 worth of goods from 1 175,000,000 worth of raw material. They employ 100,000 men and 40,000 women, whose yearly pay-roll amounts to $ 68,000,000. Among the foremost industries of Phila. are the manu- factures of locomotives, ships, cotton and woollen goods (at Manayimk), umbrellas, shoes (for the S. and W.), carpets, iron in every form, books, and refined sugar. The city is the fourth in the Repiiblic in respect to I 1 PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 265 commerce, much of which is dependent on the shipments of coal and iron ; and her coal-laden schooners and propellers visit the most remote points on the coast. Several first-class railroads converge here from every side ; and numerous short local lines connect the adjacent counties with the metropolis. Since commerce is not the leading interest, the city has less bustle and apparent activity than New York, Boston, or Chicago ; and this air of comparative quietness is also largely due to the greatness of the area over which the energies of Phila. are at work. The mechanics and artisans of Phila. live more comfortably and neatly than those of any other city; and from this fact an immense amount of skilled labor has directed itself upon this point. Beyond the heart of the city extend seemingly interminable lines of brick buildings, precisely similar in ex- ternal appearance, neat, cleanly, and respectable, and at the same time inexpensive. "With a population much smaller than that of New York, Phila. has more houses than that city; and in 1870 reported 112,366 houses for a population of 671,022, while New York had 61,014 houses for 912,29-2 inhabitants. The domestic architecture of Phila. is very monotonous, and consists almost invariably of plain buildings impinging upon the side- walks, with pressed-brick fronts, marble steps and trimmings, and white window-shutters. The territorial area of the mimcipality is 129 M., in- cluded in a district 20 M. long and 5 - 8 M. wide, which is traversed by over 600 M. of paved streets. On about 2| square M. (between South and Callowhill Sts.) the streets are laid out with great regularity, and cross each other at right angles; but beyond those limits the rectangular streets are traversed by oblique roads leading to the suburban villages. The houses are numbered by a convenient plan, each street commencing a new hundred ; and, as nearly all the streets running N. and S. are designated by numbers, the location of a given house can be quickly esti- mated. From 2d St., which is the first street W. of Front St., to the Schuylkill there are nearly 30 streets ; and No. 1125 Cliestnut St. would be found between 11th and 12th Sts. Market St. is the main business thoroughfare ; Chestnut St. is devoted to banks and retail trade ; Front St. has much wholesale trade ; and Delaware Ave. follows the river and is the seat of commerce. The Indian domain of Wicaco (now Southwark) was settled by the Swedes be- fore 1677, and a fortilied block-house was erected. In October, 10S2, William Penn and a large number of English Quakers sailed up the Delaware, and at Skackamaxon (now Kensington) he held a conference with the Indian chiefs. "The children of the forest were touched by the simple doctrine which the ' Quaker king ' avowed. They received the presents of Penn in shicerity, and in hearty friendship they gave the belt of wampum. ' We will live,' said they, ' in love with William Penn and his children as long as tlie moon and the sun shall endure.'" This compact was well observed, and "not a drop of Quaker blood was ever shed by an Indian." Later in 1682, Penn purchased the lands of Coa- qiienakxi (" tke grove of the tall pines "), which he said ' ' was not surpassed by one among all the many places he had seen in the world " ; and here a city was laid 12 266" Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. out which he named Philadelphia, partly in honor of that Asiatic city to whose church Christ sent the message, "I have loved thee," and partly because of the etymology of the name (from the Greek compound word, iAd6«Aritish troops occupied the city. It was the Capua of the royal army, who jia-sscd the jiei'iod of their occupation in rioting and lax discipline, while the vigilant "Wa.shington watched them from the dreary camps at Valley Forge, 24 M. N. W. The grand militaiy and chivalric fes- tival called the Mischlanza took place May 18, 1778, and one month later the British army evacuated their fortifications and camps and retreated to New York, pursued by Washington. The national government reoccupied the city, and henceforth its growth was steady and rapid. The Constitution was fi-amed here in 1787, and Congress continued to meet in Independence Hall until 1797. In 1684, Phila. liad\0O0 inhabitants; in 1777, 21,167; in 171*0,42,520; in 1800, 70,287 ; in 1820, 11!>,325 ; in 1>:40, 258,037 ; in 1860, 665,520 ; and in 1876,817,44'^. Among the natives of Philadelphia were the signers of the Declaration of Inde- pendence, George Clymer, Francis Hopkin.son, and Robert Rush ; the U. S. Sena- tors, J. A. Bayard, Nicholas Biddle, G. M. Dallas, and W. C. Preston ; and Wm. Franklin, W. M. Kelley, and Fernando Wood. To the Church she has given Bishops Carrell, Hobart, and White, and Drs. Alexander, Duchet, Charles Hodge, McClintock, W. H. Milburn. Odenheimer, Potts, Stevens, Turner, S. H. Tyng, Jr., and J. B. Walker. To the law she has given Wm. Allen, Horace Binney, the Rawles, Sharswood, Shippen, the Wallaces, and the Whartons. The medical jiro- fession is represented by S. Bard, T. Gallaudet, Green, Harlan, Hosack, Morgan, Physic, the Shippens, and H. H. Smith. To the army she has given Generals Cadwallader, Darke, Harmar, Haupt, McCall, McClellan, Mifflin, Morton, Pem- berton (rebel), Naglee, and P. F. Smith ; to the navy, Bache, the Biddies, the Cassins, Dahlgren, Dehaven, the Ellets, the Engles, E. K. Kane, and D. D. Porter. To literature, Allibone, Clifton, Barker, Broadhead, C. B. Brown, T. Coxe, Anna E. Dickinson, J. D. English, Gallagher, Godfrey, James Hall, the Hopkinsons, the Ingersolls, Charles G. Leland, Eliza Leslie, E. J. and George P. Morris, M. M. Noah, C. Roguet, the Reads, Henry Reed, R. P. Smith, and C. W. Thompson. To science, Robert Hare, J. Leidy, S. G. Morton, G. Ord, R. M. Patterson, H. D., W. B., and J. B. Rogers, T. Say, Townsend, and Wilson. To art, F. O. C. Darley, T. Doughty, and T. U. Walter, the architect. To the stage, J. Jefierson, W. W^arren, and J. E. Murdoch. The philanthropists Boudinot, Eddy, Pemberton, and Vaux were also natives of Philadelphia. William Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, was born at London, in 1644, and was the son of Admiral Penn. He was' liberally educated at Oxford and Paris, studied law, and fought in the Irish war. In 16U6 he became a Quaker, and began to preach, but was frequently imprisoned. In 1680 he received a royal patent for Pennsylvania, and in 1682 he made a favorable treaty with the Indians, and bought the laud from them fairly. Many years he spent in English prisons on charges of treason and debt, and in 1718 he died. His grandson, John Penn, was the last royal governor of Pa., and was a firm loyalist. He Avas contined in Virginia by the patriots, and the Penn estate (the largest in America ; valued at nearly $5,000,000) was confiscated by Congress. PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 267 Market St. is tlie central thoroughfare of the city, and is 100 ft. wide. It is lined with stores and (in the lower part) wholesale houses, and is traversed by numerous lines of horse-cars. Passing 3 of the great mar- kets for which Pliila. is so widely celebrated, the new public buildings on Penn Square are rounded, Avith the Masonic Temple on the r. ; and the street runs W. to the Schuylkill, which is crossed on a new and massive biidge. Tlie elegant Chestnut St. Bridge is seen on the 1., and the city gas-works are on the r. The Penn. R. R. terminal station (a large new brick and stone building) is now reached, beyond which Lancaster Ave. diverges to the r. to Hestonvillc; Darby Ave. turns to the S. W. to the University and Almshouse, and Market St. passes W. to the Insane Hospital. At the corner of Market and Front Sts. is the quaint old building of the London Coffee-House, which was built in 1702, and was a famous resort in the later colonial days. The Penn Cottage is an ancient structure on Letitia Street (running from Market to Chestnut St. between Front and 2d St.). It was the first brick building in Phila., and was the home of William Penn in 1682-83. The new Exchange, corner of 2d and Gothic Sts., occupies the site of the Slate-Roof House, which Avas built in 1690, occupied by Penn in 1700, and by Wm. Trent (founder of Trenton) after 1703. Lord Cornbury, John Adams, Baron De Kalb, John Hancock, and others sojourned here ; it was Arnold's head-quarters in 1778 ; and here John Penn was bora, and Gens. Forbes and Charles Lee died. ♦Christ Church is on 2d St., near Market, and is a quaint and venerable structure which dates from 1727 (its communion-service was presented by Queen Anne in 1708). It was regularly attended by Washington, and tlie mossy graveyard (on Arch St.) contains the remains of many notable men of past eras. In the tower is the oldest chime of bells S. of Boston. They were brought from London in 1754, rang in the birth of Liberty in 1776, and were hidden at Allentown during the British occu- pation. The spire is 196 ft. high, and there is a fine view from the tower, including the Delaware and its islands and shipping, the level plains of New Jersey, and the broad masses of the city blocks. On 2d St. is the old LoxUy House, and at 239 Arch St. the first American flag Avas made. On the S. W. corner of 7th and Market Sts. is the house in which Jeiferson Avrote the Declaration of Independence, and the identical room is still shoA\Ti. An open iron railing on Arch St., near 5th St., reveals the grave of Benjamin Franklin, beyond which are the sepiilchres of many ancient magnates, occupying Christ Church grave- yard. On Arch St., near 4th, is the Friends' Meeting -House, a quaint old building which is secluded in a broad graveyard. It was built in 1808, to receive the congregation who were driven from the more ancient "Great Meeting-House" on Market St. by the "street noises." The 268 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. Friends' Library is at 304 Arch St., andhas over 10,000 volumes; and the Ajjprentices' Library has about 25,000 volumes, in the old building at the corner of Arch and 5th Sts., which was formerly occupied by " the Fighting Quakers." Beyond this point Arch St. runs W. through a quiet commercial district, passing the elegant fronts of the Arch St. Theatre and the St. Cloud Hotel. Near 10th St. are the Methodist Book- Rooms ; and Arch St. soon crosses Broad St. , by a trio of elegant churches, and enters a district of residences, chiefly remarkable for the monotony of their architecture. Chestnut St. is the most brilliant and interesting street in the city. It runs W. from the Delaware River, and passes for several squares through a district of wholesale houses and banks. Third St. is the Wall St. of Phila. , and leads S. by the former head-quarters of Jay Cooke & Co., and the classic portico of the Girard Bank (copied from the Dublin Exchange, and long occupied by Stephen Girard), to the * Merchants' Exclmnge, the head-quarters of commerce, opposite which are the U. S. Appraiser's stores, in a new and massive structure which Supervising- Architect Mullet declares is the only fire-proof building in America. Be- yond this point, and on and near 4th St., are the costly and imposing buildings of the Penn., the Lehigh Valley, the Reading, and other railroads. To the S. (corner of Pine and ?A Sts.) is St. Peter's Church, which was built in 1758-61, anrt has a tower containiiij? a merry chime of bells. In tlie churchyard is a nionunient to Com. Decatur, " the Bayard of the seas," a gallant naval officer in the Tripolitan, Algerian, and British (1812) Wars. 3d St. runs N. through a busy trade district, parallel with 2d St., the Bowery of Phila. On Cherry St., W. of 3d, is Christ Church Hospital, and at the intersection of Race and 6th Sts. is Franklin Square, a pleasant park in which is a marble fountain. To the W., on Sergeant St., between 9th and 10th Sts., is the Girls' Normal School. On Chestnut St., above 3d, is the Florentine front of the Bank of North America, the oldest bank in the Republic (founded in 1781), near which is the building of the Fidelity Safe Deposit Co., massively built of Mass. marble, with an impregnable safe weighing 150 tons (cost $60,000), Back of the ornate Guarantee Safe-Deposit is Carpenters' Hall, which was built of small imported brick (each alternate one being glazed and dark), in 1770, for the use of the Society of Carpenters. Here, in the hall on the lower floor, met the first independent American Congress, Sept. 5, 1774. " Here, with the news of the cannonade of Boston bursting upon them, arose the first prayer in Congress. Washington was kneeling there, and Henry, and Rutledge, and Lee, and Jay, and by their side stood bowed in i-everence the Puri- tan patriots of New England, who at that time had reason to believe that an armed soldiery were wasting their humble households." After the Revolution the hall jiassed into ignoble uses, but has since been restored by the Company of Carpenters, and is now carefully guarded and reserved for reverent visitors. The *U. S. Custom House is on Cliestnut St., between 4th and 5th, and was built in 1824 for the U. S. Bank at a cost of $ 500,000. It has / PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 269 2 imposing fronts (one on Library St.), each of which lias 8 fluted marble columns of the Doric order, rising from a high platform approached by steps, and supporting a plain pediment. Just above the Custom House is tlie Post-Office, a practical granite building, and opposite is the Farm- ers' and Mechanics' Bank, a fine marble structure, containing the Clearing House anposite end of the hall is Benjamin West's great painting, * Christ Rejected by the Jewish People. Among the other pit^tures are portraits of Longfellow and Holmes ; the Holy Family ; a View of Ancient Fairmount ; several pictures of dogs and game ; Marine View, Moran ; the Duke of Guelder's Cruelty to his Father, Wittkamp ; Jeplitha's Daughter ; Death of Sir Philip Sidney ; Patrick Henry addressing the House of Burgesses, Rothermel; * Christian MartjTs in the Coliseum, Rothemiel; and a great allegorical painting of the New Republic, by Pauwels. Beyond this point the road leads out on an open plaza which is adorned with a colossal bronze * statue (in a sitting posture) of Abraham Lincoln, designed by Randolph Rogers, and cast at Munich. It is on a tall granite pedestal, on which are inscribed some of the immortal words of the martyr-president. On the river-front, above the steamboat lauding, are the graceful boat-houses of the Schuylkill Navy, an ancient rowing asso- ciation composed of 10 chibs, with 4 - 500 members and nearly 70 boats (valued at $100,000). This is the most complete and best organized society of the kind in the world, and has exciting regattas during the summer. The Mineral Spring is N. of the Plaza, and is covered by a neat pavilion. Tlie waters are chalybeate, and many visitors drink of them during the summer. Beycnd the Plaza the road ascends the slopes of Lemon Hill, which is crowned by a fine old mansion (now used as a restaurant) situated among stately trees. Robert Morris, the Patriot Financier and the right arm of Washington, lived in his mansion on Lemon Hill from 1776 to 1798. He was a member of Congress and a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and often reiilenished the empty treasury of the army at critical moments by pledging his personal credit. He paid off the murmuring army before the victory at Trenton, and raised $1,400,000 to equip the forces on their way to the final campaign of Yorktown. He was U. 8. Senator, 1789-95, and dcidined the secretaryship of the treasury ; but became in- volved in vast land speculations, wrecked his fortune, and in his C5th year was put in prison for debt. There he remained for 4 years, and died 4 years after his release. His estate, "The Hills," was bought by Henry Pratt, who laid out beautiful gardens and named it Lemon Hill. It was acquired by the city in 1837. 282 Route 38. PHILADELPHIA. The road passes on to the bhiffs of Sedgeley, which look across the Schuylkill to the groves of The Solitude. On this hill are the remains of a fort which was built during the Secession War for the defence of the city (while the rebels were marching through Penn.). Near this point is the small wooden cottage which was used as Grant's head-quarters at City Point, Va. The road now descends to the stately Girard Avenue Bridge, above which is seen the massive stone viaduct of the Connect- ing Railroad (travei'sed by through trains from New York for the West or South). Near this point are the Egyptian buildings of the Schuylkill Wetter -Works, whose capacity is 23,000,000 gallons a day (supplying 5 wards of the city from a reservoir 124 ft. high, containing 9,800,000 gallons). Crossing the bridge, and turning to the 1., the visitor reaches Egglesfield, ' where in 1732 was located the club-house of the merry fishing-club called *' The Colonic in Schuylkill " (now " The State in Schuylkill," and located near Gray's Ferry). Beyond this is Tho Solitude, a villa which was built in 1785 by John Penn, the poet (and grandson of William Penn). This estate was boiight by the city a few years since, and was the last remnant owned by the Penn family of that great State which once was theirs. Near these grounds is seen the lofty stand-pipe of the W. Philadelphia water-works, which is 130 ft. high, and is surrounded by a circular stair- way. It is now used as a inil)lic observatory. The * Zoological Gardens are near the Girard Avenue Bridge, and con- tain a large invoice of animals from the Rocky Mts. and Western Amer- ica, including moose, black-tailed deer, elk, wolves, grizzlies, brown, black, and cinnamon bears, catamoimts, golden eagles, cross and silver foxes, etc. There are also buffalo, beaver, American lions, and panthers; and a large assortment of European animals are to be added in due time. Tlie Lansdoime Road passes to the N. under the massive arches of the railway viaduct, and enters the old Sweet Brier estate, whicli is now fitted uj) for the Children's Play-Ground. Saaiuel Breck was born in Boston, July 17, 1771, and was ediiotited at the French Royal Military College of Soreze (in Languedoc). He built the Sweet Brier mansion, and lived here for 38 years, engaged in jiublic li.e and the cultiva- tion of his model estate. While a child he had heard the cannonade at Bunker Hill, and at a later day he stood before Washington in Phila. In 1861 he wel- comed President Lincoln to the city, and he died in the darkest hour of the Secession War (Sept. 1, 1862), his last words being " What of— my country?" Beyond Sweet Brier the pleasant road reaches a rustic bridge over the Laiisdoimie Ravine, commanding a beautiful view up the river. Still farther on the road reaches the cluster of venerable pine-trees at the Lansdowne Concourse. On the hill near by stood the mansion of ^Lansdowne, until its destruction by fire, July 4, 1854. It was a stately house budt by John Penn, "the American Penn," Governor of the province 1763-71 and 1773-75; but the Penns were hostile to the cause of American Independence, and their public estate was con- fiscated by Congress, being " the largest one ever sequestered in civil war." The PHILADELPHIA. Route 38. 283 family claimed $5,000,000 compensation from the British government, and re- ceived an annuity of §20,000, )>esides a gift of $650,000 dollars from the State of Penn. Lansdowne Avas inhabited for a time by ex-king Joseph Bonaparte, and was afterwai'ds owned by Lord Ashburton. The road now passes tlie Micliaux grove of oaks, and ascends to the concourse on George's Hill, wlience is obtained a charming * view of the Park, the river, and the city, over wliicli are the white colonnades of Girard College. This ancestral estate (83 acres) was presented to the city by Jesse and Rebecca George, two venerable Friends. The grounds extending S. E. from George's Hill nearly to Sweet Brier are reserved for the U. S. Centennial Exposition of 1S76 (see Sujtplement). Between Lansdowne and George's Hill the roal passes a bronze group representing wolves (piarrelling over the body of a deer, and Stauch's bronze statue of Night is on George's Hill, near the pavilion. Lofty ob- servatoi-ies have been erected on Lemon Hill (225 ft. liigli), George's Hill (250 ft.), and at Belmont, whence noble views are gained over the Park and city. T!ie first two cost $ 150,000. Visitors ai'e carried to their tops by steam elevators (fee, 25c.). A road runs N. E. from George's Hill by the Belraont Reservoir (35,800,000 gallons) to the Belmont Mansion (* Proskauer's Restaurant), which was erected in 1745, and was often visited by Washington, Lafayette, Franklin, Morris, Jeiferson, Adams, Luzerne, Talleyrand, Louis Philippe, Joseph Bonaparte, and many other distinguished men. The proprietor, Judge Richard Peters, was an eminent jurist, author, and patriot, and was Secretary of War from 1776 to 1781. Tlie * view from this mansion is one of the noblest in the Park. The road now passes the Behnont Glen, a picturesque ravine on the W. side (leading to the Belmont sta- tion of the P. & R. R. R.). Just S. W. of the station is Tom Moore's Cottage, where the poet of love dwelt and wrote some beautiful poems, among which was the one beginning, — " Alone by the Schuylkill a wanderer roved. And dear were the flowery banks to his eye." The River Road runs thence N. E. 1 M. to the Falls Bridge, passing the Schuylkill viaduct of the Reading R. R. The road on the heights trav- erses Ridgeland beyond Belmont, then passes the Mt. Prospect mansion and the lake and concourse of Chamoimi, and reaches the Falls Bridge. The road on the E. bank beyond the Girard Avenue Bridge passes through a broad tunnel under Promontory Point, and crosses the ravine below Fountain Green. This shore is higher and bolder than that on the W., and has preserved more of its natural form. The Mount Pleasant Mansion is near the Columbia Bridge, and is a stately old colonial house dating from 1761. It was bought by Benedict Arnold in 1779, and was confiscated after his treason. General Steuben then occupied the estate. 284 Rmte 38. PHILADELPHIA. Tlie road now passes the Rockland mansion and the old estates of Belle- ville (steamboat landing), Orndston, Ef Dr. Kane, the Arctic explorer, and also tlie tall monolithic obelisk over the remains of Charles Thomson, Secretaiy of Congress Irom 1774 to 1789, " the Sam Adams of Phila., the life of the cause of liberty." Among the eminent men buried here are Com. Isaac Hull, captor of the Guerriere (under a monument resembling that of Scipio, upon which an eagle keeps guard) ; Hassler, the director of the U. S. Coast Sui-vey ; Com. Alex. Murray, of the Mexican and Secession Wars ; Thomas Godfrey, the inventor of the quadrangle ; Judge Hobert T. Conrad, the author ; Gen. Patterson ; Admiral Lavallette, of the Mexican War ; Joseph S. Lewis, the projector of the Fairmount Water- Works ; Joseph C. Neal, the humorist (author of "Charcoal Sketches"); and Dr. R. M. Bird, the novelist. The new monument to Miss Bailey, constructed of polished Scotch granite, is worthy of attention ; also the recently erected bronze memorial statues, in the lower part of the grounds. The trees of Laurel Hill are justly celebrated, and include several fine cedars of Lebanon. The mausoleum of Louis A. Godey is a massive structure of white marble, in Egyptian architecture. Near Laurel Hill, and on the W. bank of the Schuylkill, is West Laurel Hill, a new cemetery, containing 110 acres. The Mt. Vernon Cemetery is near Laurel Hill, on Ridge Ave., and has a stately pyramidal mau- soleum adorned with groups of symbolic statues. Glemoood Cemetery contains 21 acres, and is on Ridge Ave., near Lslington Lane, wliich leads N. E. to the si3acio\is Odd Fellows' Cermtery (32 acres). Germantown may be visited either by horse-cars (passing through the German village of Nicetown), or by the railroad from the corner of 9th and Green Sts. It is 6 M. N. of Chestnut St., and forms the 22d Ward of the city. Along Germantown Ave. are several ancient colonial houses, with the small mercantile stores of the suburb. This is one of the most beautiful residence-quarters in America, and has long quiet streets lined with fine villas and pretty churches. Among the older buildings are shown Chew's House (where the Anxerican army was checked), Washing- ton's Head-quarters (on Market Square), and the ancient Button-Ball Tree Tavern. This village was settled in 1684 by Germans from Cresheim, on 5,700 acres of land, which Pastorius bought of William Penn at a shilling an acre. Rittenhouse St. leads down from the main 'avenue into the quiet recesses of the Wissaliickon Valley, near Mom Rinkle's Rock; and Germantown Ave. and the Railroad run N. W. by Mount Airy to the pleasant and wealthy village of Cliestnut Hill, a favorite place of resi- dence for city merchants, and situated near the end of Fairmount Park. The ?mUU of Germantown Avas fouglit Oct. 4, 1777. After Gen. Howe had flanked Washington and captured Phila., his main division encamped at German- town, where it was attacked by surprise about daylight, and Avas thrown into great confusion. Line aiter line gave way before the impetuous rush of the Amer- icans, and for a time it seemed tliat the British army would be destroyed. But Ool. Musgrave and 5 companies of the 40th took refuge in Chew's large stone house, and effectually checked the victorious army. The house was cannonaded without effect, and meanwhile tlie retreating troops had been rallied and rein- forced, and attacked the Continentals, vvlio Avere enveloped in a dense fog, and were repulsed in detail. Washin;jton now commanded a retreat, after 2V hours of fighling, in which he had lost over 1,000 men. The British loss was '535. The Americans then Avent into camp on tlie heights beyond Whitemarsh, G M. from Mount Airy, and 5 weeks Liter retired to Valley Forge, 19 M. beyond. 286 Route ?iS. CAMDEN. At nilnt/shiirrj is the new House of Correction, a vast pile of stone buildings (with 8 extensive wings), containing 2,000 cells, and estimated to cost § 1,000,000. Bridesbury is the seat of great cotton-niills, >vhich were occupied during the Secession War for the manufacture of arms. A short distance from tliis point is the Frankford Arsenal, a military post of the U. S. (visitors admitted during daylight). There are (52^ acres of grounds, on which are long Unes of cannon-balls, with a few pieces of brass artillery. This arsenal is devoted to the manufacture of fixed ammunition for the U. S. army ; and one of the buildings can turn out 1,000,000 car- tridges a day. All the ammunition for the national armies is made here; and during a great part of the Secession War work never ceased here, be- ing carried on by alternating gangs of men through Sundays and holidays and night and day. N. W. of Frankford is tlie stately building of the Friemls Lunatic Asylum, near the banks of Tacony Creek. Camden ( W. Jersey Hotel) is a city of New Jersey, opposite Phila., from which it is separated by the Delaware River. It is situated on a level plain, and has several new streets occupied by the residences of Phila. merchants. There are 26,000 inhabitants, with 17 churches and 3 newspapers. There are 4 steam-ferries to Phila. ; and a bridge is pro- jected, — to be 120 ft. above the river and to cost $2,000,000. Besides being the terminus of several railroads, Camden is enriched by large manufactures, especially those of iron, glass, and chemicals. There are extensive ship-yards liere; and Esterbrook k Co.'s steel-pen manufactory is the largest of the kind in the U. S. The rural districts near the city are occupied by fruit and vegetable gardens, which sui)ply Phila. with market-produce. In the W. part of the city are the county buildings, near which are 2 soldiers' monuments. W. of the Court House is a line Catholic church ; and a pleasant residence-quarter extends to the N. Camden is a city of the 19th century, at whose beginning there were here only a few fishermen's cabins and a farm-house. In 1830 the population was 1,987; in 1870 it was 20,045 ; and in 1874 (estimated), 26,000. Windmill Island is in the Delaware River, opposite Camden, and was in ancient times joined to the N. J. shore. It was formerly used as a place of execution for pirates ; and in 1837 a canal was cut through for the passage of vessels. Just below Phila., and near League Island, is Fort Mifflin (46 guns), opposite which is Red Bank (in N. J.), Avhere may be seen the remains of old Fort Mercer, the Whitehall mansion (built in 1748), and the graves of many soldiers and of the Coimt Donop. In the N. outworks, near the river, is a marble monument, erected in honor of the victory won here. In the fall of 1777, after the Britisli occupation of Phila., Gen. Howe determined to open the conniiunication with the sea by capturing the American works which then commanded the river. Fort Mercer was garrisoned by the 1st and 2d R. I. X'egimeuts, under Lt.-Col. Greene ; Fort Mifflin (on Mud Island) was held by the RED BANK. Roxite 39. 287 Maryland line ; and a small fleet defended the clievaux de frise in the river. Tlia Aniericau works at BiUingsport were carried by storm, and the hostile fleet and army advanced a^^ainst Red Bank. Count Donop erected a battery near Fort Mercer, and sent the summons : " The King of England orders liis rebellions sub- jects to lay down their arras ; and they are warned that, if they stand the battle, no quarters whatever will be given." The intrepid Greene sent back reply : "We ask no quarters, nor will we give any." After a sharp cannonade, 1,200 picked Hessians advanced to storm the works, and had reached the moat when a scatliing fire of grape-shot and mu.sketry was opened tipon them, and forced them to give way. A second Hessian division at the same time attacked the fort on tlie S., and its bravest leaders reached the sunmiit of the pai-apet, but were there cut down, and the remaining assailants were put to flight. The American artillery was directed by the French engineer, Chevalier Manduit, and did terrible execu- tion. The garrison lost 3S men ; and the Hessians lost 400, including their chief. Count Donop, who was extricated from a heap of dead soldiers, and soon died, saying, " It is finishing a noble career early, but I die the victim of my ambition and of the avarice of my sovereign." Meantime the British frigates had ap- proached Fort Mercer, but were beaten off by the American gun-boats. The next morning a determuied naval attack was made, and was as fiercely met. The frig- ate Augu-ita, of 04 guns, was set on fire by a hot shot, and soon blew up ; and the Merlin, IS, speedily met the same fate. The remainder of the hostile fleet dropped down the river in great haste, badly shattered by the guns of the forts and of Com. Hazlewood's flotilla. In November tlie British erected a line of lieavy bat- teries near Fort Mifllin, and l)rought up a fleet carrying 358 guns, with which a continuous bombardment was carried on for C days and niglits. Un the 15th, the Iris, Somerset, Fury, Viijilant, liocbuck, and other frigates, anchored where their yard-arms almost overhung the fort ; and, with the land-batteires, opened a ter- rific fire upon tlie crumbling ramparts. Witli marvellous heroism the 300 Mary- Lauder.s in the works Iccpt up a st&idy fire, until every gun was dismounted, 250 of their number were killed or wounded, and the palisades and ])arapets were levelled with the earth. 1,000 shot and shell were liurled into Fort Mifflin within a few hours ; and at midnight tlie few survivors of the garrison fled from the corpse-strewn ruins to Foit Mercer. Cornwallis soon advanced against the latter work, and it was evacuated l)v the handful of troops who remained. Of the 47 siniill vessels of the American fleet, 17 were burnt at Gloucester, and the remain- der crept by Phila. at night and reached the upper Delaware. Thus closed what may perhaps be considered the most heroic and Si)artan-lilce defence in the annals of America. 39. Philadelphia to New York. By the Camden & Amboy 11. R. (pertaining to the Peini. R. R.) to S. Am boy, and thence by steamlioat to N. Y. Home trains on this line reach N. Y. by way of Trenton, Monmouth Junction, or Perth Amboy, and thence on Route 37. Stations. — Pliiladelphia ; Camden, 1 M. ; Fish House, 5 ; Palmyra, 8J ; Rivertcm, D ; Riverside, 12^ ; Delanco, 13 ; Beverly, 15^ ; Edgewater, 10 ; Bur- lington. 13^ ; Stevens. ISA ; Florence, 23 ; Kinkora, 25 ; White Hill, 27 ; Borden- town, 28 (Trenton, 34); Yardville, 31 ; Newtown, 34=J^ ; Windsor, 37^; Hightstown, 41 : Cranberry, 44 ; Prospect Plains, 40 ; Jame.-iburg, 48.V (Daji,on, 52 ; Monmouth Jun(!tion, 54) ; Spottswood, 52 ; OW Bridge, 54i ; 8. Amboy, 62 ; New York, 03. The passenger leaves the foot of Market St. and crosses by ferry-boat to the Amboy station in Camden, whence the train pa.sses out through the city, and runs N. E. by several suburban stations. Crossing the Rancocas Creek, the train passes Delanco, and stops at Beverly ( Wash- ington House), a recent and populous village, with 5 churches and a U. S. Hospital. 4 M. beyond this point the train reaches Burlington {Bur- lington House ; Washington ; Belden), a river city of 5,817 inhabitants, with 9 churches, and broad straight streets. Fronting on the river are the buildings of Burlington College (founded by the Eitiscopalians in 288 Rmte 39. BORDENTOWN. 184G) .and St. Mary's Hall. The Delaware is 1 M. wide at this point, and on the opposite shore is the Penn. hamlet of Bristol. Burlington is the seat of large preserving establishments, and has a branch R, R. to Mt. Holly (7 M.), and daily steamboats to Philadelphia (19 M.). The city was founded by Quakers in 1667, and was bombarded by British gunboats in 1776 and 1778. The train now runs N. E. by Kinkora (whence a branch line diverges to New Lisbon) to 'BordiQUtown {Bordentoimi Jloiise ; American), a city of over 6,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, a female college, and the N. J. Collegiate Institute. It is the seat of several large foundries and machine-shops, and has the terminal basins of the Delaware and Raritan Canal. The railroad passes below the level of the streets, which are on a plain elevated 65 ft. above tlie Delaware. Many Phila-* delphians seek summer rest here, attracted by the neatness of the city and its pleasant environs. Bordeutown was settled at an early date by Joseph Borden, and was plundered in 1778 by a British naval expedition from Phila. In 1816 it was chosen as a home by the ex-king Joseph Bonaparte, and here he lived for 26 years, occupying a mansion in a broad and sx)aeious parlc. Tlie train runs over Crosswicks Creek, and passes Yardville, Newtown, and Windsor, beyond which the Pembertown & Hightstown R. R. comes in from the S., and Hightstown (locally famous for its classical scliools) is entered. A branch R. R. runs N. W. from Jamesburg to Monmouth Junction, on the N. Y. Div. of the Penn. R. R. The Freehold & Jamesburg R. R. runs S. E. to the ocean in 33 M. (3 honrs). Stations, Lower Jamesburg, Manalapan, and Freeliold (Amp.rica n House; IVaahimjton), the capital of Monmouth County, — a pleasant village with 4,231 inhabitants, 3 acadennes, and 5 ehnrches. The Battle of Mo}imonth was fought on June 28, 1778, near the village of Freehold. 8ir lienry Clinttm was retreating from Phila. to N. Y., and was closely followed by the American army. His choice trooi)s were disposed in the rear-guard, and the baggage was hurried on in advance. Early on the hot, dry morning of June 28, the American vanguard, under Lee, Lafayette, and Wayne, assailed the royalist forces, and, for a time, gained decided advantages ; but Lee ordered an unaccount- able retreat, which resulted in a iiauic-struck flight, through which the hostile grenadiers rushed cheering. Wlien the routed vanguard reached the main army. Washington gave Lee a stinging rebuke, and drew up the forces in order of battle. The troops of the van were again put to flight, and the enemy attacked the centre and riglit wing of the army. The grenadiers charged in beautiful order, but their commander and oflicers were picked oif l>y Wayne's riflemen, and Knox's batteries kept up a continuous lire with great jirccision. Tlic British then fell back rai>- idly, pursued by the Continentals, and encamped on the heights. Every prepara- tion was made to renew the action on the following morning, but during the night the enemy retreated noiselessly and escaped. The Americans lost 228 men, and the British lost about 300. Lee was court-martialletl and suspended from the service (after challenging Washington to a duel) for his very equivocal conduct in the early jtart of the battle. Beyond Freehold the branch line runs S. E. across a thinly settled region of pine-plains (of sinister fame during the Revolutionary era as sheltering bands of desperate banditti). At Farmimjdale the N. J. Southern R. R. is crossed, and the slow-moving train passes on to the old marine handet of Sqnan and the ocean- viewing beach of Sea Girt, — a quiet summer resort, with several boarding-houses. A few M. S. is the secluded seashore retreat of Paint Pleasant, in the pine-lands 2 M. from Barnegat Bay. A road leads N. near the sea, and, crossing the shallow estuary of Shark River, passes on to Ocean Grove and Long Branch. LONG BRANCH. Route 40. 289 The New York train nins N, E. from Jamesbiirg over partially denuded pine-plains and through a dreary and sparsely populated country to the South River, which is crossed at Herbertsville. South Amboy is situ- ated on Raritan Bay, at the mouth of the Raritan River, which separates it from Perth Amboy (see page 257), and here the traveller enters a steam- boat which passes by Staten Island and iip the Bay of New York to Pier 1, N. R. The latter portion of the route is very interesting and pictu- resque (see page 45). 40. New York to Long Branch and the Delaware Bay. By the N. J. Southern R. R. To Long Branch in 2 hrs. ; to Philadelphia (fare, $2.25) in 5^ hrs. ; to Bay yidc in 7} hrs. Stations. —New York; Sandy Hook Pier, (about) 20 M . ; Highlands, 25; Seabright, 27 ; Atlanticville, 30 ; Long Branch, 3i ; Branchport, 33 ; Oceanport, 3i ; Eatontowu Junction, 36 (branch to Port Monmouth, 4G) ; Shark River, 42; Fariningdale, 46 ; Squankum, 47 ; Bricksburg, 53 ; White's Bridge, 57 : Ridgeway, 59 ; Manchester, Gl ; "Whiting's, 07 (branch to Pemberton Junction and Philadcl- I)hia) ; Woodraansie, 74 ; Shamong, 79 ; Atsion, 91 (branch to Atco) ; Cranberry Park, 03 ; Winslow Junction, 09 ; Cedar Lake, 105 ; Landisville, 110 ; Vineland, 115; Rosenhayn, 121; Bridgeton, 127; Bowento^vn, 130; Greenwich, 134; Bay Side, 137. Spacious and elegant steamboats leave Pier 8, North River, and pass down the Bay of New York, affording pleasant views of the great cities along the shores, the heights and villages of Staten Island, and the forts which guard the Narrows. Below the Lower Bay tlie Higlilands of Navesink are approached ; and crossing Sandy Hook Bay the steamer reaches the N. terminus of the N. J. Southern R. R. At the N. end of Sandy Hook are 2 beacons and a powerfid light, near the new fortifications Avhich are designed to command the main ship-channel. Tlie train now runs S. along the long and narrow peninsula, with the ocean on the 1. and the Highlands on the r,, beyond the broad estuaries of the Navesink and Shrewsbur)-- Rivers. Passing the fishing hamlet of Seabright, the line reaches Long Branch. Hotels. — * Ocean Hotel (Lelands'), oecmpying ten acres and accommodating 1,000 guests, at $5 a day; the *\Vest End, very fashionable, and a favorite of statesmen and diplomats, is at the S. part of the beach (S 5 a day) ; the * Mansion House is close to tlie sea, surrounded with piazzas, accommodates 500 guests, and charges i^A a day; the *Howland is a favorite resort of Pliiladelphians, and has ro(nns for 500 guests ; the * United States is S. of the Mansion House, and can take 500 boarders ; the Pavilion (100 guests) has pleasant lawns. The East- End Hotel is partly devoted to excursionists ; the Sans Souci is on tlie European plan ; the Ceutral (with restaurant) is well situated ; and the Clarendon is small, but good. * laucli's is famous for its restaurant, the Delmonico's of Long Branch. There are several smaller hotels, and board may be secured in private families for $ 10 - IS a week. Long Branch, "the summer capital of the Republic," occupies a bold and wave-washed strand which was formerly the resort of fishermen and wreckers. Within the past decade it has attained a foremost position among the American summer resorts; inmiense hotels have arisen upon the shore, and costly private cottages have been built along the broad 13 S 290 Route J^. LONG BRANCH. avenues. The President and other eminent men occupy summer homes here ; and brilliant companies of fashionable people frequent the hotels. Tlie rapid growth of Long Branch is partly due to its proximity to N. Y. and Phila., and partly to its fine beach. The hotels are situated on the Bluff, a broad plateau 20 ft. above the sea, of which it commands a grand view. Bathing is usually done near the time of high tide, when white flags are hoisted on the hotels, and boats are stationed outside the surf- line to assist persons who get into too deep water. Before 6 o'clock, A. M., gentlemen are allowed to bathe without costume. The quaint and brill- iant dresses of the bathers during the regular hours form a pleasant spec- tacle, and the surf is then dotted with groups of enthusiastic people. A bath-house containing 100 rooms has been built for those who cannot meet the shock of the waves, and warm salt-water baths are given here. There is a fine drive S. from the Ocean Hotel for 2 M. along the bluffs, whence another drive-way leads through Hollywood Park to old Long Branch, Oceanport, and Red Bank (10 M.). Another macadamized road leads to Atlanticville, Seabright, and the Highlands (8 M.). Monmouth Park is 3 M. from Long Brancli, and is one of the most famous race- courses in America. Tt cost .$250,000, and covers 127^ acres. The races begin about July 3, and include heats, dashes, steejile-chases, and hurdle-races. Pleasure Bay {N. Y. Hotel ; Price's) is 3 M. from the Branch, on the Shrewsbury River, and is famous for oysters and crabs. Yachts and small boats may be hired here for fishing or sailing on the broad river. The old hamlet of Long Branch is 2 M. from the shore ; Red Bank is 8 M. distant ; and Eatontown is 5 M. W, Oceanport (Dunbarton House) is 4 M. N. W. of the Branch, and is near the far- viewing summits of Wolf and Dunbarton Hills. The Tinton Falls, Rumson Neck, Branch Port, and other points along tlie Shrewsbury River are much visited by way of pleasant roads. Deal {* Hathmvay's Hotel ; Allen's) is an old village on the shore 5 M. S. of Long Branch; below which are the great Methodist resorts known as Ocean Grove and Asbury Park, containing several hundred cottages (and, in the season, great numbers of tents). In this vicinity are the Sunset, Fletcher, and Asbury Lakes. Farther S. is Shark River, a favorite objective point for excursions from the Branch, and famed for oysters and crabs. Red Bank (* Globe Hotel ; West-End ; Union) is a village of over 3,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches and 3 academies, and is prettily situ- ated on the Shrewsbury River, which is here f M. wide. It is a favorite port for yachtsmen and other pleasure-seekers ; and artists frequent the vicinity for the sake of the pleasant marine views. Shell -fish are found in great variety and abundance, and large oyster-beds are located in the Shrewsbury River. Steamboats run from New York to Red Bank daily NAVESINK HIGHLANDS. Route 40. 291 (according to the tide) in 3^ hrs. (fare 50c.) ; and stages leave for the neighboring villages. Red Bank is IJ hrs. from N. Y., by rail. The Highlands of Navesink {'"'Atlantic Hotel; Schenck's, — $3 a day) are bold hills between the Navesink River and Sandy Hook Bay. They are rugged and picturesque in their outlines, and are diversified by fine reaches of woodlands. Mount Mitchell is the highest summit, and reaches an altitude of 282 ft., whence broad ocean-views are gained. Far up on the heights are 2 lighthouses, of which that to the S. is 248 ft. above the sea, and has one of the most powerful Fresnel lights on the coast. This range is usually the first land seen on approaching New York, and is also the last in sight for departing vessels. It is said that the name '* Neversink " was applied to these hills by impatient sailors eastward bound and held on the coast by adverse winds. The fishing and bathing in this vicinity, together with the pleasant rambles and broad news, have made it a favorite summer resort. The steamers from New York to Red Bank touch at tliis dock daily. Leaving Long Branch the train runs W. by Branchport and Oceanport to Eatontown Junction, whence a branch di\'erges by the village of Red Bank to Port Monmouth, 10 M. N., on Sandy Hook Bay. From Eaton- town the main line runs S. W. by SJiark River (stages to Squan Beach), Farmingdale (crossing of the Freehold & Jamesburg R. R., see page 288), and Squankum, to Brickshurg (Talmadge House), a large village on the Metedeconk River. A road to the E. leads to Island Beach, a narrow strip of sand over 20 M. long, between Barnegat Bay and the sea. There are two small hotels far down on this beach. The line now traverses a level country to Manchester {Manchester Hoitse), where the R. R. work- shops are located. Tom's Kiver {*Ocmn House; Magnolia) is a quiet summer resort 7 M. from Manchester by a branch R. R. It has 1,2()0 inhabitants, and is the capital of Ocean County. The chief industries are the coastiug-trade and the cranberry culture, and the vicinity is much visited in autumn by sportsmen in quest of wild ducks and other aquatic fowl. The village is 5 M. from the ocean, and the air is cool and salubrious. Near the outer strand of Barnegat Beach is a small hamlet with an inn which is much resorted to by gunners. The defences of Tom's River Avere carried by storm in March, 17S2, and the village was destroyed. The Tom's River R. R. runs S. from this point for 13 M. over the moors which border Barne- gat Bay, and joins the Tuckerton R. R. at Barnegat Junction. The Tvckerton R. R. diverges from the N. J. Southern R. R. at J^^iting's, and nuis S. E. througli a flat, sandy, and thinly populated country to Barnegat, whence it follows the marshy shores of the salt-water estuaries to Tuckerton, a small maritime hamlet near the sea. The Carlton House is visited in summer, and the fishing (weak and blue lish) in the vicinity furnishes an exciting sport. On the adjacent Long Beach (Bond's Long Beach House, and others) many aquatic birds are shot during the autumn. This town was founded by Eben Tucker, and formerly exported large quantities of sassafras, wliich was much valued in Europe during the last century. Many privateers resorted to this point during the Revolution, and brought in valualile prizes from time to time. A British naval expedition of 10 vessels and 700 soldiers captured the place, together with 30 vessels in the harbor. 292 Route//). BRIDGETON. burnt the villages adjacent, and exterminated the advanced guard of Pulaski's Legion, which was hastening to the rehcf. The sloop-of-war Zebra grounded while i>assing out of the harbor, and was destroyed by fire. The maiii line passes S. from Manchester to Whiting's, whence a track runs due W. 18 M. to Pemberton Junction, where connections are made Avith the Penn . Ft. R. for Philadelphia. The Vineland Division passes S. W. from Whiting's by the petty stations of Ferrago, Wheatland, Wood- niansie, Shamong, Harris, Hanjpton, and Atsion, -whence a branch R. R. runs to Atco. About Atsion tlie capacious town of Fruitland has been laid out, in a locality Avhich is thought to be adapted to the cranbeiTy culture. Of the 254,000 bushels of cranberries raised in the U. S. in 1871, this State furnished 150,000, — and the 3 coast counties raised 130,000 bushels. This branch of fanning is very profitable, as the cranberries hring $3.50-$4 a bushel. To the S. is Batsto, whose iron-works were employed throughout the Revolution in making shot and sliell for the Con- tinental army from the bog-iron ore which abounds hereabouts. At Edgc- 2>elick, 3 M. N. of Atsion, the Indians of N. J. made their last sojourn, F>rainerd converted tlie tribe, and resided here with them ; but the com- munity went West about the year 1800. Running S. W. from Atsion the line passes N. Ha'nmiontoa and inter- sects the Camden & Atlantic R. R. (Route 42) at Winslnw Junction. Stations, Winslow (Hays' glass-works Cedar Lake, Landisville, Wheat Road, and Vineland (see Route 43), where the W. Jersey R. R, is inter- sected. Crossing the Maurice River tlie train runs W. by Bradway, Rosenhayn, and WoodruflPs to Bridge ton {Bridgeton Hotel), a city of 8,000 inhabitants, with 13 churches, 3 papers, and 4 seminaries. It is situated on the Cohansey River (over which there are 3 bridges), and has a line of steamers to Philadelphia, lliere are here 46 factories, with an aggregate capital of .$1,313,000 (rolling-mill, foundry, nails, glass, wool- lens) . The Cumberland County buildings, the Cohansey, W. Jersey, and S. Jersey Academies, are all on the W. of the creek. The Brid{ieton d- Port Norris R R. runs 20 M. S. E. to Port Norris. It follows the Cohansey to Fairton, and then runs S. to CednrviUe, in the centre of the town of Fairfield, which was settled by men of Fairfield, Conn., in 1697. On the S. are the broad salt-marshes which border on Delaware Bay. Stations, Newport (N. of Bear Swamp), Dividing Creek, Mauricetown (2-3 M. W. of the hamlet), and Port Norris, near the mouth of the Maurice River. This town was settled by the Swedes (1637-54), and the river derives its name from the fact that one of their ships, the Prince Maurice, was attacked and burnt by the Indians above Mauricetown. The main line runs S. W. from Bridgeton, by the stations of Bowen- town, Sheppard's Mills, and Greenwich, to Bay Side, its S. terminus, on Delaware Bay. A railroad ferry is projected from this point to Bombay Hook, in the State of Delaware. The last 4 .stations are in the town of Greenwich, whose Indian remains show that a large aboriginal population occupied this region. It was settled about MOUNT HOLLY. Routed. 293 1680 by New-Englanders and others. After the " Boston tea-party," the East India Company sent the ship Greyhound- up the Cohausey to Greenwich with a cargo of tea. On tlie night of Nov. 22, 1774, 40 citizens disguised as Indians took the tea. from the storehouse, and, piling tlie chests in an adjacent field, destroyed the whole cargo by fire. Civil suits were brought against these bold patriots, but were dropped alter the battles around Boston. 4L Philadelphia to Long Branch and New York. Bv the Camden & Burlington County R. R.. and the N. J. Southern R. R. From Philadelphia to Long Branch, 79 M.; to New York, 110 M. (fare, $2.25). Stations. — Philadelphia ; Camden, 1 ; Merchantville, G ; Stiles', 8 ; W. Mnorestown, 10; E. Moorestown, 11; Hartford, 14; Masonville, 15; Hainesport, 1^; Mt. Holly, 19; Smithville, 22; Ewansville, 23; Birmingham, 24; ?\. J. s.iutliern Junction, 25 ; Pemberton, 26 ; New Lisbon, 29 ; Hanover, 35 ; Whiting's, A?, ; Manchester, 49 ; Bricksburg, 57 ; Farmingdale, 64 ; Shark River. 68 ; Eaton- town Junction, 74 ; Eatontfjwn, 75 ; Oceauport, 76 ; Branchport, 77 ; Long Branch, 79 ; Seabright, 83 ; Highlands, 85 ; Sandy Hook Pier, 90 ; New York, 110. The train diverges from the Camden & Amboy line at the Junction, and runs E. by the large village of Moorestown and several minor handets. 19 M. from Philadelphia it reaches Mount Holly (2 inns), the capital of Burlington County, on the Rancocas Creek. It has 4,000 inhabitants, and is surrounded by a fruitful coimtry. To the N. is the hill from which the place is named. It is 200 ft, high, and overlooks a w^ide extent of the W. Jersey plains. Mt. Holly was settled by the Friends, and was garrisoned during part of the Revolution by British troops, one of whose officers afterwards became King William IV, of England. At a later day many of tlie French refugees from St. Domingo were domiciled here, and Stephen Girard peddled cigars and raisins. John Woolman, the Apostle of the Friends, was born here in 1720, and spent an active life in works of beneficence. He made many religious journeys through the Jerseys, and lived in a style of stern simplicity. At that early day he de- nounced Africa*!! skivery, deprecated sectarianism, and strove for purity of life and sweetness of culture. The Medfonl Branch runs S. 6 J M. from Mt. Hollv, bv Lnmberton, to Medford; and the B. & Mt. H. R. R. runs N, W. 7 M. to Burilngton (see page 288). The N. Y. train runs E. from Mt. Holly to Ewansville (whence a branch R. R. diverges to Vincentown, 3 M. S.) and Pemberton Junction. The Pemberton & Hightstown R. R. diverges here to the N. E., and passes Leunstown (crossing of Kinkora Branch R. R.), Wrightstown, New Egypt, Homerstown, Imlaystown, and Hightstown (on the Camden & Amboy R. R., 26 M. from Pemberton). From New Lisbon, 4 M. E. of Pemberton Junction, a branch line runs N. W., tlirough Lewistown, JuliustoAvn, Jobstown, and Columbus, to Kinkora, on the Delaware River and Camden & Amboy R. R. Tlie train now passes across desolate pine -plains, poor and sparsely populated, to Whiting's, on the N. J. Southern R. R,, 18 M. from Pemberton. From Whiting's to Long Branch and New York, see Route 40 (reversed). 294 Route 42. ATLANTIC CITY. 42. Philadelphia to Atlantic City. By the Camden &; Atlantic H. R. in 2-:! lirs., traversing the level sandy plains of Lower New Jersey, and passing through a thinly settled but eligible country whi(;li is now being developed. Stations. — Philadeljihia ; Cooper's Point (Camden), 1 M. ; Haddonfield, 8; Ashland, 11 ; White Horse, 13 ; Berlin, 18 ; Atco, 20 (branch to Atsion, on the N. J. Southern R. R.) ; Wat^rford, 24; Ancora, 25; Winslow, 28 (crossing of the N. J. Southern R. R.) ; Hammonton, 31 ; Da Costa, 33; Elwood, 35; Egg Har- bor, 42 (branch to May's Landing, 49) ; Pomona, 48 ; Absecom, 53 ; Atlantic City, 60. Passengers leave the foot of Vine St., Phila., by a ferry-boat which crosses the Delaware to the R. R. station at Cooper's Point, in Camden. The train runs oljliquely across Camden, and tlience over level plains to Haddonfield (2 inns), a pleasant village where many Pliiladclphians pass the summer. It was settled by the Friends before 1690, and was named after an eminent preacher of that sect. The Continental Congress re- mained several weeks here, and the place was afterwards occupied by British troops. A large proportion of the present population belongs to the Friends, and that sect has 2 churches here. The train now passes the rural stations of Ashland, White Horse, and Berlin, and reaches Atco, a small glass-working hamlet. Branch lines diverge hence to Williamstown (9 M. S. VV.), and to Atsion, on the N. J. Southern R. R. Stations, Waterford, Ancora, Winsloio Junction (crossing of the N. J. Southern R. R. ), and Havimonton (Hammonton House), a fruit-producing village set- tled by New-Englanders in 1860, and situated on the old pine-plains of Atlantic County. This is one of the numerous "cities on paper" of S. New Jersey, and imaginary streets are laid out for many miles on each side. Da Costa, Elwood, and Egg Harbor City {Neio York Hotel) are next passed, and are the sites of projected cities, with parks, avenues, and squares laid out on the long reaches of level sand. A German colony has recently settled at Egg Harbor, whence a branch R. R. runs S. W. 7 M. to May's Landing (American Hotel), the county-seat. This village was fovmded in 1710, and is at the head of navigation on the Great Egg Harbor River. The train on the main line passes Pomona and reaches Absecom (Absecom House; Franklin), whence stages run S. W., by the borders of vast salt-marshes, to Leed's Point and Soniers' Point, on Great Egg Harbor Bay. Beyond Absecom the train passes out on the marshes between Absecom Bay and Lake's Bay, and after running 7 M., and cross- ing 2 narrow straits, it enters Atlantic City. Hotelg, — * United States, between Del., Md., Atlantic, and Pacific Aves., accommodating 700 guests ; *Congi-ess Hall, N. W. corner of Mass. and Pacific Aves. ; *Surf House, between R. I. and Vt. Aves. The prices at these large hotels are $2.50 -3.50 a day. The Chalfont, Clarendon, Tremont, Light-House. St. Charles, and other houses are less expensive ; and tliere are numerous large ATLANTIC CITY. Route 43. 295 tnling-liouses, charging S 10 -20 a week. Another new and palatial hotel is ji. ally completed, and will be opened in tlic summer of 1874. Railroads. —The Camden & Atlantic, to Phila. in 50 M. (Strains daily in summer) ; to New York in 12G M., by the Camden & Atlantic to Winslow.and tlience by the N. J. Southern R. R. (Route 40). Atlantic City was settled in 1818, and became a city in 1854. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches, and is laid out with broad and pleasant avenues. Witidu a few years it has become a favorite summer resort, especially for the citizens of Philadelplua; and the season lasts from July to the middle of September. Near the outer point of the island on which the hotels are located is a lofty stone lighthouse which bears a j)Owerful first-class light. There are nearly 50 hotels at the city, and 40,000 guests a year an'ive here; and the social element, in hops, balls, and receptions, is supervised by some of the leaders of Philadelphia society. The beach is one of the best on the coast, and affords fine bath- ing facilities; while the boating and fishing on the adjacent inlets and outer waters afford fine amusement. The country in the vicinity is unin- teresting, and consists, for the most part, of flat salt-marshes. The autumnal sport of duck-shooting is successfully followed here. N. of Atlantic City, across Absecom Inlet, is the long and unbroken Brigantine Beach, which is called by seamen " the graveyard," on account of the number of fatal wrecks which have taken place there. 43. Philadelphia to Cape May. By the West Jersey R. R., whicli traverses the thinly populated plains of the S. counties of N. J., with several branch-lines diverging to the ports of the Dehi- ware. Stations. — Philadelphia ; Camden, 1 M. ; Gloucester, 4 ; Westville, 5 ; Wood- bury, 9 (branch to Berkley, 13 ; Clarksboro', 14 ; Swedesboro', 19) ; Mantua, 12 ; Baruesboro', 14 ; Glasslwjro', 18 ; Clayton, 21 ; Franklinville, 24 ; lona, 25 ; Mal- aga. 28 ; Newfield, 30 ; N. Vineland, 31 ; Vineland, 34 (crossing of N. J. Southern R. R.) ; S. Vineland, 37 ; Millville, 40 ; Manumuskin, 46 ; Belleplain, 53 ; Wood- bine, 56 ; Mt. Pleasant, 59 ; Seaville, 62 ; Swain's, 66 ; Cape May Court House, 69 ; Rio Grande, 75 ; Bennett's, 78 ; Cape May, 81. BrUlgeton and Salem Branches, — Phila. ; Glassboro', 18 ; Union, 20 ; Harding, 22 ; Monroe, 24 ; Elmer, 26 (di- vergence of the branch to Daretown, 81 ; Yorketown, 34 ; Alloway, 38 ; Middle- town, 39 ; Salem, 43) ; Palatine, 29 ; Husted, 31 ; Finley, 34 ; Bridgeton, 37. Crossing from the foot of Market St., Phila. (1. ferry-house), the travel- ler takes the cars at Camden and passes S. near the Delaware River to Gloucester (2 hotels), a small river-city devoted to manufacturing. It was founded in 1689, and was held by Lord Cornwallis with 5,000 British troops in 1777. Station, Westville, near the mouth of Timber Creek, where Capt. Mey (of the Dutch West India Company) founded Fort Nassau in 1621, The colonists were soon at feud Avith the Indians; and, being decoyed into an unfavorable position, they were all massacred and the fort w^as destroyed. Woodbury (Wills's Hotel) is a village 2 - 3 M. S. of Red Bank (see page 287), wath a branch R. R. running S. W. 10 M. by Berkley and Clarksboro' to Swedesboro' (2 iuns), a hamlet on Raccoon 296 Route 43. VINELAND. Creek. It was settled by the Swedes before 16 10, and the Swedish chttrch •was kept up until 1786, Stations (main line), Wenonah, near Mantua village, with a large summer hotel ; Barnesbaro'; and Glassbord' (2 inns), a village of 2,500 inhabitants, with 4 churches. This place was settled at an early date by Germans, who commenced the manufacture of glass. Whitney's glass-works are located here, and are the largest in the Repub- lic; while the aggregate annual product of this industry is $2,500,000. Glassboro' is on the great S. Jersey vein of pure white sand, even and fine, which melts easily and is well adapted for glass-making. A branch R. R. runs S. from Glassboro' to Bridgeton (see page 292) in 19 Mi, passing 7 stations. From Ehncr station (Elmer Houae), on this branch, another R. R. diverges to the W., and in 43 M. from Camden it readies Salem (Garwood's Hotel; Mansion; Nelson), tlie cai>ital of Salem County. It has 4,555 inhabitants, and is the centre of a populous farming conntiT. There are daily steamers to Philadelphia, — by Salenj Creek and the Delaware River. Salem was settled by 60 immigrants from New Haven (Conn.) in 1641 ; but the colony was l)r()ken up and replaced by a Swedish fort, which in turn yielded to the Dutch and the Eng- lish. In 1673 Lord Berkeley's half of New Jersey (known as West Jersey) was bought by 2 Friends for £1,000. The chief proprietor soon visited his new domain, and "landed at a pleasant, rich spot, situate near Delaware, by him called Salem ; jirobably from the peaceable aspect it then bore." The new colony grew rapidly, and in 1682 was made a port of entry. The first settlere were Friends, and that sect still has 2 churches here. In 1778 Salem was plundered by 1,200 Scottish troops under Col. Mawhood. This force advanced to Alloway and defeated the N. J. militia by ambuscade, but was afterward seriously rc- I)ulsed in several attempts to cross the Alloway. The Americans there defeated Simcoe's Queen's Rangers, who had tried to storm the fortilled bridge-head. Then Mawhood returned to Philadelphia, bearing a large quantity of forage and many cattle. Beyond Clayton and Franklinville the main line passes the vineyards of lona and Malaga ; and thence by Newfield and N. Vineland reaches Vineland ( Vineland House). At this point, a few years ago, a specula- tive gentleman bought a tract of pine-plains 10 M . square, through which broad avenues were laid out and public reservations were made. By lib- eral advertising and low rates for the land, large sales were effected, and the forests soon gave way before the sturdy arms of men of New England. A bright new town grew up like magic, with pretty villas and cottages located along (and at prescribed distances from) broad straight avenues; and fine churches and academies were erected. Several thousand persons settled in this vicinity ; but the dreams of a southern Arcadia which had lured so many from the rocky hills of New England were soon dissipated. At present Vineland is one of the chief towns of S. New Jersey, and is inhabited by a semi-literary community of Puritanic memories, whose local laws are peculiar and beneficial, and far in advance of the age. The principal business of the town is raising small fruits for the N. Y. and Pliila. markets ; and, by diligent application, considerable sums have been made in this branch of industry. 6 M. from Vineland the train reaches Millville (Tice House ; City Hotel), a place of over 6,000 inhabitants, situated on the Maurice River, CAPE MAY. Route 43. 297 and containing several glass -factories. The line now runs S. E. through a sandy and sparsely populated country by the stations of Mauumuskin and Belle Plain. Entering the low and marshy domain of Cape May County, beyond Woodbine and Mt. Pleasant, the Great Cedar Swamp is crossed, and the train stops at Seaville station, whence the Sea-Shore road runs N. E. 10 - 12 M. between the Swamp and the salt estuaries behind Ludlam's and Peck's Beaches. It passes through Seaville and terminates at Beesley's Point, a quiet summer resort on Great Egg Har- bor. The R. R. runs S. W. down the Cape with bi-oad sounds and marshy islands and moors 1-2 M. to the 1. Stations, Swain's, Cape May Court House, Rio Grande, and Bennett's, beyond which the train passes Cold Spring and stops at Cape May. Hotels. — * Stockton House, 1,200 guests, §4.50 a day, S 28 a week; ♦Con- gress Hall, 1,000 guests, S 4.50; Oceau Hou-^e, 300 guests, S3 50 : Atlantic, $3.50, ^21ii week; Columbia, .'? 4 00 ; Centre, 350 guests, $350; National, Delaware, and .\rctic, each ijiSaday; Clialfont, West End, United States, Merchants, and Treniont. The Sea-15reezo House is used by excursion-parties. There are also several boarding-houses, whii-h charge $ 12 - 20 a week. liailroads, — to Philadelphia in 2 hrs. (81 M.,$ 2.50) ; to Atlantic City by way of Vineland. Steamers run daily to Philadelphia (fare, $ 2). Cape May is the most southern point of New Jersey, and is one of the Capes of the Delaware (the other being Cape Henlopen, across the Bay). It is insulated by a small tidal stream, and fronts on the Atlantic. The beach extends from the point of the Cape to Cold Spring Inlet, a dis- tance of 5 M., and is composed of firm gray sand, affording a fine drive- way at half or low tide. The bathing facilities are unsurpassed, and the surf is massive, and is (it is claimed) less chilling than that of the New England coast. Most of the hotels front directly on the sea, and aftbrd fine marine views ; and a long promenade-walk is built down the water- front. The visitors are mostly from Philadelphia, Baltimore, and the Western States ; while the Southerners wlio were wont to come here be- fore the Secession War are beginning to return to their old summer home. The aristocratic nulitary organizations of the adjacent States make their encampments in tliis vicinity, and the elite of Phila. society is found at the larger hotels (notably at the Stockton House). The steam- boat-landing is on Delaware Bay, about 2 M. from the hotels ; and down the beach to the W. (near Lilly Pond) is the lighthouse, which is 90 ft. high, and sustains a powerful revolving light. 2-3 M. inland is Cold Spring, a favorite place for excursions, and so named on account of a large spring of sweet water which rises through a salt marsh. Sea Grove is a Presbyterian summer-village near Cape May, with cottages, avenues, and a large new hotel. Cape May was named in honor of himself by Capt. Cornelius Jaeobse May, Avho visited this coast in a ship of the Dutch West" India Company. The same mariner 298 Route U. LAMBERTVILLE. affixed his name to other points, naming New York " Port Mey " ; Cape Henlopen, "Cape Cornelius"; and the Delaware, "New Port Mey"; but the latter titles failed to satisfy. In lti2y the Cape was bought from 9' Indian Sachems for tlie Dutch W. I. Company, and it was soon settled by whalemen from Long Island. During the Revolution great quantities of clams, dried and sti'ung, were sent from this district to the Continental army. As early as 1812 the Cape was " a favorite watering-place," and in 1844 it had 3 large hotels and 3,000 annual visitors. In the War of 1812 the British iine-o. -battle ship I'oictiers appeared olT the village, and threatened to bombard it unless allowed to get a supply of fresh water. The request was granted, and the great war-ship sailed away in peace. 44. Philadelphia to the Delaware Water Gap, Scrantont and Oswego. By the Penn. R. R. (New York and Belvidere Divisions) and the Delaware, Lackawanna & Western R. R. The country which is travei-sed by this route is attractive and diversitied, ajid the scenery oh the Belvidere Division is highly picturesque. Stations. — Philadelphia (Kensington) ; Trenton, 30 M. ; Asylum, 34 ; Greens- burg, 30; Somerset Junction, 3U (branch to Pennington) ; Washington's Crossing, 39 ; Titusville, 41 ; Lambertville, 40 (branch to Flemington) ; Stockton, 50 ; Pralls- ville, 51 ; Bull Island, 53 ; Point Pleasant, 50 ; Freuchtown, 62 ; Milford, 65 ; Holland, 68 ; Durham, 71 ; Riegelsville, 72 ; Pohatcong, 74 ; Carpenter\ille, 75 ; Lehigh Junction, 80J ; Phillipsburg, 81 ; Martin's Creek, 88 ; Roxburg, 91 ; Bel- videre, 95; Manunka Chunk, 98. D., L. £ IV. R. ii. — Delaware Water Gap, 108 ; Scranton, 133 ; Bijighamton, 194 ; Utica. 289 ; Syracuse, 274 ; Oswego, 309. Philadelphia to Trenton, see pages 260, 261. A short distance beyond Trenton the N. J. Lunatic Asylum is passed, and the line follows the course of the Delaware River, on whose farther bank is the Penn. Canal, bordering the rich and rural Bucks County. Beyond Greensburg is Somerset Junclion, whence a l)ranch R. R. runs N. E. to Pennington, and thence across Pleasant Valley (with Pennington Mt. on the 1.) to Hopewell. This line is continued to E. Millstone (see page 258). The main line passes N, W. along the 1. bank of the Delaware, bj'' the stations of Washington'' s Crossing (where the American army crossed the DelaAvare before the victory at Trenton), Titusville, and Moore's. Beyond the low ridges of Goat Hill (r. ) it reaches Lambertville {Bebnont House), a pleasant village with factories on the feeder of the Delaware & Raritan Canal, A bridge crosses the river to Neiv Hope, Penn. At this point (then called CoryeVs Ferry) a division of the Continental army crossed during the disastrous retreat through the Jerseys, Lord Corn- wallis attempted to seize this strategic point, but was repulsed by the Scottish -American Lord Stirling, A branch R. R. runs 12 M. N. E. from Lambertville up the Alexsocken Creek to Flemington, passing tlie ancient valley-village of Kingoes, which was settled by John Ringo in 1720. Flemington {County Hotel; Union) is the capital of Hunterdon County, and is pleasantly situated on an undulating plain. The M. Branch R. R. runs from Flemington E. to Somerville, on the N. J . Central R. R. Beyond Lambertville the main line passes on to Stockton, Bull's Island, Point Pleasant (village in Penn.), and Tumble, after which numerous islands are seen in the river, and beyond Erwinna (r. bank) the train BELVIDERE. Ro^ite U. 299 reaches Frenchtovm, opposite the Penn. hamlet of Uhlerstown. Milford is connected by a bridge with Upper Black Eddy, and is overlooked by a picturesqiie line of heights, while the red sandstone bluffs of Nockamixon are seen across the river. The line next curves around a broad bend of the river, with the Musconetcong Mt. on the r. Beyond this ridge is Riegels- ville, about 3 M. S. W. of which, near the confluence of Durham Creek and the Delaware River, is a remarkable cavern, containing several halls and sloping down to the level of the river, where a deep pool is found. The train now traverses a romantic district of hills, and on the 1. are the highlands, among which is the tall hill of Hexenkopf, or Witches' Head, where the old German colonists alleged that the weird women were wont to meet in " linked dances " on stormy nights. The Kettentanz of the Hartz Mts. was reproduced here, and accompanied with ghostly chanting upon the huge and far-viewing suinniit-rock. These orgies de- clined after the punishment of a witch for practising " certain most wicked acts (called enchantments and charms), maliciously and diaV)olically, upon and against a certain white horse of the value of 4£ by means of which the said horse of the said Justice W., on the day aforesaid, at the township of Willianis aforesaid, worstended and wasted away, against the peace of our said common- wealth, and against the laws in this case made and provided." The train crosses the Pohatcong Creek, and runs N. W. to the Lehigh Junction, with beautiful views of Easton and Phillipsburg. The great bridges, the mouth of the Lehigh, and the buildings of Lafayette College are seen on the 1. Beyond Phillipsburg the Marble Mt. is followed on the r., with pleasant river scenery on the 1. Stations, Harmmiy, Martin's Creek, and Belvidere {American House), the capital of Warren County, a pleasant village sit- tiated at the confluence of the Request and Delaware Rivers. The former stream affords a good water-power, falling 50 ft, in 1 M. Near the centre of the village is a public square on which front 4 churches and the Court House. N. of the Request is the Brainerd Seminary, with other public buildings. The train now rounds the Manunka Chunk Mt., and meets the Del., Lack. & Western R. R. coming in from New York on a high grade. Passengers change cars here (the only change between Phila. and Oswego), ascending to the platform of the D., L. & W. R. R. Manunka Chunk to Oswego, see pages 242 - 249. 300 Route 45. FORT WASHINGTON. 45. Philadelphia to Central New York, The Valley of Wyoming. By the N. Penn. and Lehigh Valley K. Rs. To Wilkes-Barre, in 6 hrs. ; to El- mira, 10 hrs. ; to Auburn, 13 hrs. ; to Buft'alo, 16.i hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 16J lirs. Palace-cars run through from Phila. to Niagara Falls. Phila. to Bethlehem, 2 hrs. ; to Mauch Chunk, 3^ hrs. ; to Wilkes-Barre, 6 hrs. ; to Elniira, 10 hrs. ; to Rochester, 14^ hrs. ; to Buffalo, 15i hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 16^ hrs. This route passes through a great variety of pleasant scenery, from the rich agricultural lands of Bucks County and the Valley of Wyoming to the cold and frowning wil- derness of the remote mountain counties. The great iron-works of Lehigh County and the collieries of Carl)on and Luzerne are also passed, and attbrd much interest, to the tourist. Information with regard to excursion routes, fares, and i)alace- cars may be obtained at 732 Chestnut St , and 105 S. Fifth St., Phila. ; also at the CentralR. R. and the Morris & Essex R. R. stations in New York. Stations. — Philadelphia ; Fisher's Lane, 4 M. ; Green Lane, 5 ; York Road, 7; Jenidntown, 9 ; Abiugton, 10, Edge Hill, 11 ; Fort Washington, 14; Ambler, 15 ; Penllyn, 17 ; Gwvnedd, IS ; N. Wales, :iO ; Lansdale. 2*2 (branch to Colniar, 25 ; Chalfont, 27 ; Doylestown, 33) ; Hatlield, 25 ; Bonders, 27 : Sellersville, 31 ; Perkasie, 33; Quakertown, 38 ; Coopersbui-g, 44 ; Center Valley, 45 ; Bingen, 48 ; liellertown, 51; Bethlehem, 55 (Easton, 67). LchUjh Valley H.R. — E. Penn. Junction, GO ; AUentown, 60 ; Catasauqua, C3 ; Hokendaucpia, 64 ; Coplay. 65 ; Laurj''s, 70 ; Slatington, 77 ; Lehigh Gap, 79 ; Lehighton, 86 ; Mauch Chunl;,89; Glen Onoko, 92 ; Penn Haven Junction, 96; Hickory Run. 109 ; White Haven, 114; Fair View, 128; Newi>ort, 135; Wilkes-Barre, 144 ; Pittston, 153; L. & B. Junction, 154 ; Falls, 165 ; McKunes, 168 ; Tunkhannoek, 176 ; Mehoopany, 188 ; Meshoppen, 191 ; Black Walnut, 196 ; Laceyville, 199 ; Wyalusing, 209 ; French- town, 215 ; Rummerfield, 219 ; Standing Stone, 222 ; Wysauking, 226 ; Towanda, 230 ; Ulster, 237 ; Milan, 241 ; Athens, 245 ; Sayre, 247 ; Waverly Junction, 249 ; Elmira, 267 ; Ithaca, 281 ; Auburn, 344 ; Buffalo, 416 ; Niagara Falls, 438. The train on the N. Penn. R. R. leaves the tenninal station on Berks St., and runs N. through the borders of tlie city, passing several large factories and i-olling-niills. Leaving tlie Ei)iscopal Hospital on the r., the line crosses the tracks of the Reading R. R. (coal-branch) and the Penn. R. R. (connecting line), and passes out into the pleasant suburban region near the Old York Road. At about 6 M. from the Berks St. station, the line leaves Phila., and enters Montgomery County, passing the pretty Chelten Hills. The celebrated park and mansion established by Jay Cooke are near the Old York Road station; and Gen. Meade lived near Jenkintown. AhingUm is considerably to the E. of its station (whence a branch R. R. runs N. E. to Ilathoro, near Waraiinster) ; and Edge Hill is near large smelting- works. From Oreland the Plymouth R. R. runs S. W. to Conshohocken, on the Schuylkill River. Sandy Run is known for its fine white lime; and Fort Wctshington is near the remains of the field- works which were erected to check the advance of the British army after the disastrous Battle of Germantown. The quaint old gambrel-roofed stone house wliich was used for Washington's head-quarters is still stand- ing, 1 M. from the station. From this point the army retreated to its dreary winter camps at Valley Forge. Beyond the pkasant rural hamlets of Ambler and Penllyn, the train reaches Gv)ynedd, a Welsh village 1 M. E. of the station. Running through the costly Gwynedd Tunnel (500 ft. BETHLEHEM. Rcmte 45. 301 long), the next station is N. Wales, whence daily stages run to Norris- tovvn and HaAvleyville. From Lansdale a branch R. K runs N. E. 11 M. by Colmar and Chalfont to Doylestown. situated on a high plateau. It is the capital of Bucks County, and has 1,601 inhabitants, most of whom are descendants of the Scotch-Irish settlers. The line now passes Hatfield and enters the fertile farm-lands of Bucks County, populated almost en- tirely by the descendants of the old Germanic migrations, who still pre- serve the language and customs of their ancestors. There are thousands of small farms, partially devoted to dairy-culture; and women maybe seen working in the fields, just as in Austria or Bavaria. At Sellersville the Landis Ridge (the water-shed between the Delaware and Schuylkill) is crossed, affording pleasant views down the Limestone Valley. Beyond Perkasie (Perkasie Hotel), famed for cottage-cheeses, the train enters a tunnel 2,160 ft. long. Quakertown is a long village near the head of the Perkiomen Valley, with daily stages rmining S. W. across Miiford to Greenville. The train now descends into the Saucon Valley, with South Mt. on the r. ; passes Coopersburg and Bingen (seat of the N. Penn. Iron Co.'s furnaces), and reaches Heller town, a compact little village, which is near prolific iron and zinc mines. Still descending the broad valley, with South Mt. on the r., the train passes great furnaces and iron-works and the Lehigh University is seen on the r. Bethlehem (* Sim Hotel, $ 3 a day; Eagle Hotel) is pleasantly situated on the highlands N. of the Lehigh River, and contains (together with S. Bethlehem) over J0,000 inhabitants. It is celebrated as being the chief seat of the Moravians in America ; and from its historic attractions and the pleasant scenery in the vicinity, it has become a summer resort. The Moravian Church is a singular stone building, which accommodates over 2,000 persons. The ritual and sermons are in English. Above the church is a trilateral range of ancient stone buildings, with massive buttressed walls, quaint belfries, and double rows of dormer-windows, — recalling Quebec or Upper Austria. This house was built by Bishop Nitschmann in 1741, and contains the German Chapel and the home of the Single Sis- ters. All the unmarried women then dwelt in this house, and some re- main there (by preference) even now. Great care was taken in the earlier days lest the young people should form natural affinities for each other. The sexes were kept ai)art even at church, and after death were buried in different places. During the hours of relaxation from work, they took long walks in coluuni of twos ; but if the sisterhood went E. the brothers must go W., if they went N. the brothers nmst go S., in order to avoid the risk of meeting. No brother was allowed to walk along the pavement oppo- site the Sisters' House, and vice versa. If a brother and sister met on the street they must both look down, and never on any pretence could gaze at each other. Marriages were considered desirable, but simply as a means of perpetuating the church, and therefore were arranged by the clergy. If each of several Ladies seemed equally adapted to a certain single brother, the elected one was ascertained by drawing lots ; and the church assumed the care and education of children when they reached the age of,. 6 years. Franklin thus reports his conversation 302 Ro7de 45. BETHLEHEM. with a Moravian leader : " I objected, ' If the matelies are not made by the mutual choice of the parties, some of them may chance to be unhappy.' 'So they may if you let the parties choose for themselves,' said the Moravian. Whitih indeed I could not deny." In 1778 the Single Sisters made and presented to Count Pulaski a crimson silk banner, on one side of which were the letters " U. S.," enciix-led by the motto, unitas virtus fortior ; and on the other the All-Seeing Eye, and the motto, non alius rer/it, embroidered in yellow silk and fringed with bullion. This banner was borne by Pulaski's regiment, imtil he fell in the assault on Savannah (1779). It is now in the Maryland Historical Society's rooms, at Baltimore. " When the dying flame of day " ' Take thy banner. May it wave Through the chancel shot its ray. Proudly o er the ppod and brave, Far the Blinimerinfr tapers shed When the battle's distant wail Faint light on the cowled head. Breaks the Sabbath of our vale ; And the censer burnine swung. When the clarion s music thrills When before the altar hung To the heart of these lone hills ; That proud banner, which, with prayer. When the spear in conflict shakes. Had been consecrated there ; And the strong lauce, quivering, breaks.*" And the nun's sweet hymn was heard the while. Sung low in the dim mysterious aisle, — Hymn of the Moravian Nuns at the Consecration of Pulaski'. i Banner. (Hejjuy W. Lonofkllow.) The Widows' House is the quaint little building opposite the Single Sisters' House. Back of the latter is the Boys' School, and farther out on Church St. (on which are many ancient houses) is the Moravian Theo- logical Seminary. On Church and Market Sts. are the old cemeteries, which are scrupulously guarded. A small horizontal slab of marble is laid on the top of each grave, and all classes and conditions of men are buried side by side. The pile of buildings S. of the church is the Mora- vian Seminary for Young Ladies, the oldest in the Rei^ublic (founded in 17-49). It has 42 teachers and tutoresses, 305 students, and 6,000 alumnaj, with fine libraries and cabinets. Many of the students belong to churches other than the Moravian, and some come from foreign lands. Below the cheerful reading-rooms of the Y. M. C. A. (86 Main St.) is a room containing a museum of curiosities (entrance, 25c.). Among these are a quaint fire-engine made in London in 1698, and brought over by the Moravians; the war-costumes of Osceola and Red Jacket; ancient weapons of warfare, Christian and heathen ; a spinnet and a spinning-wheel ; old books and newspapers; collections of autographs, medals, and minerals (including zinc ores from Friedensville) ; trophies from the mission- stations of the Brethren ; and relics of the old Pennsylvanian settlements. The finest thing in the hall is a large historical painting by Schuessele, representing Zeisberger preaching to the Indians. The Sun Inn was opened in 1760, and was cari-ied on by the Moravians (by salaried landlords) until 1851. The rates for transient visitors were 2^ shillings a day. It was fortified in 17G3, and in the same year a weekly stage-line to Phila- delphia was started. Among the guests at the inn were Ge)ierals Gates, Sullivan, Fermoy, Schuyler, Mifflin, Knox, Lafayette, Lee, Steuben, Pulaski, Pomeroy, Lewis, and the Ambassadors of France and Spain. Generals Riedesel and Philips and their staffs (of Burgoyne's captive army) were kept here. At a later day General and Lady Washington visited the place ; and the Marquis de Chastellux, in 1782, speaks enthusiastically of the Inn. NAZARETH. Route 45. 303 The Sun Hotel was enlarged to its present size in 1851, but the massive walls and deep-set windows still remain ; and the architect's plans (dra\vn in Saxony) are framed in the reading-room. Above the hotel a street to the 1. leads to the lofty bridge over the Manocasy Creek, whence the valley is overloolced and the Lehigh University is seen. The drives np the Manocasy Valley ai-e pleasant, and Calypso Island, in the Lehigh River, is much visited. On South Mt. is a large hydropathic institute (Lehigh Mt. Springs ; $ 12 - 15 a week) ; and the Episcopal ladies' school of Bishopthorjye is open in summer for family boarding. The * Lehigh University was founded by the Hon. Asa Packer in 1865, and is under the auspices of the Protestant Episcopal Church. In the first 2 years mathematics, the languages, elementary sciences, etc., are taught ; and in the last 2 years the student passes tlirough one of the 5 technical schools, — general literature, civil engineering, mechanical en- gineering, mining and metallurgy, or analyticl chemistry. Tuition in all branches is free, and the other yearly expenses are reckoned at $ 215. The vicinity of the great mining and engineering Avorks of the Lehigh Valley aflfords special adva.ntages to such a polytechnic institution. There are 12 professors and instructors, and 121 students. * Packer Hall is the chief building, and is 213 ft. long, with a fine facade of stone, and a lofty belfry-tower. In its central portion are the chapel, library, and cabinets. Descending the hill e/i echelon from this hall are the houses of the pro- fessors ; and Christinas Hall is a large brick dormitory-building on the E. These buildings are in a park of ancient trees on a far-viewing spur of the Lehigh Mts. Tlie immense rolling-mills of the Bethlehem Iron Co. are near the village, and produce many thousand tons of Bessemer-steel rails. Friedensville is 4 M. distant, and has the most powerful stationary engine in the world. There are rich zinc-mines in the fissures of the Silurian limestone at this place, producing yearly 3,000 tons of oxide of zinc, 3,600 tons of metallic zinc, and 3,000 casks of sheet-zinc. Nazareth is 10 M. from Bethlehem, and is most readily reached from Bath, on the Lehigh k Lackawanna R. R., which runs N. 15 M. to the mines near Chapman's. It is a quaint old village pleasantly situated be- tween the Blue and the South Mts., and is 8 - 10 M. S. of the Wind Gap, a bold pass in the Blue Mts., 15 M. S. W. of the Delaware Water Gap. Nazareth was settled in 1740 by George Whitefield and a colony of Moravians. The latter were soon driven out by Whitefield, as the issiie of certain theological difi'erences ; but they afterwards bought the laud and made it an appanage of the Comitess of Zinzendorf, under the name of the Barony of Nazareth. Here (in 1785) was established the Moravian Boarding -School for Boys, which now has 13 teachers and 145 students. Morning and evening prayers and frequent military drills (in uniform) are carefully observed. The main building is Nazareth Hall, a quaint old 304 Roiite 45. ALLENTOWN. structure with dormer-windows, and a hipped-roof surmounted by a tall belfry. Moravia was Christianized in the year 863, and in 1419 the Bohemo-Moravian Church revolted against the Papacy, and took up arms under John Ziska and the League of the Hussite Barons. For 12 years Catholic armies were vainly sent against Moravia, and in 1431 the fifth and last crusade was shattered at the great battle of Tauss. A formal secession from the Catholic Church was effected ; they received bishops from the Waldenses, and suffered several bloody persecutions. When Luther's Reformation began (1517), the Moravians had 400 churches and 200,000 communicants. They did not second the German and Swiss reformers, and sTiffered persecutions from both Catholics and Lutherans. In 1G27 they were totally dispersed, 30,000 families being driven from the kingdom by King Ferdinand II. A few of the exiles (" the hidden" seed ") gathered at Lissa, in Poland, and after fresh hardships and many mar- tyrdoms, the fragments of the church were gathered at Herrnhut, on the estate of the Saxon Count Zinzendorf (1722). This noble was created a bishop, and united tlie opposing sects into "the renewed church," but was oppressed by the Saxons, and began to send his people to America in 1735. In 1741 Bishop Nitsch- maun founded ^eiAZec/iem. (a Hebrew-Indian name, meaning "House on the Le- high "), and Count Zinzendorf visited the place later in the year, and named it Ikthlehem. A cluster of exclusively Moravian villages arose in the vicinity, of which the chief secular peculiarity was a communism of labor. This polity lasted until 1S43, when Lutherans were admitted to the villages, and now the old Mora- vian towns are open to all comers. Many of the distinctive traits of the sect have passed away, and it now includes (in America) G6 churches, with 6,400 members, governed by 5 bishops with very limited ex officio powers. The chief strength of the church is in Penn., Wisconsin, and N. Carolina. The Diaspora (to the cold state-churches of Europe) and the Pilgrims (to the heathen Indians) are the titles of the two great missionary enterprises of the Con- tinental and Moravian Provinces (both begun about 1750, and still active). The maintenance of remote and perilous missicms is now the chief work of the church. There are 6 stations in Greenland, 5 in I^abrador, 3 among the Indians, 46 in the W. Indies, 12 in S. America, 12 in S. Africa, 3 in Australia, and 2 in Thibet, em- ploying 318 missionaries, and having under care 70,311 converts (Moravian Manual, 1869). The church is divideil into the English, Continental, and American Prov- inces, and holds to the evangelical doctrines as set forth in the Augsburg Con- fession. In 1755 the Indian tribes declared war on the colonies, and the Moravian mis- sionaries to the W. were cruelly massacred. Bishop Spangenberg fortified Beth- lehem, and it became a city of refuge on the outer frontier. In 1775 the Virginian troops, marching to the siege of Boston, halted here, and afterward large bodies of soldiers and prisoners of war were moved by this route. In 1776 the geiiei-al hospital of the Continental Army was located in the village ; and out of 2,000 patients more than 400 died. After the defeat at the Brand>nvine, the baggage of the army was parked here in 900 wagons, and many members of Congress tied hither after the fall of Philadelphia. Meantime, from the foundation of the place until the expulsion of the Indians, many delegations of the Delawares, Six Na- tions, Wyomings, and otlier tribes visited the United Brethren at Bethlehem, and were kindly treated. With the recent development of the iron-manufacture, a large alien population has come in, and now but ^ of the people are Moravians. In former times this people feared the Irish more than the Indians, and were re- viled by them as " d— d Hernhutters." After leaving S. Bethlehem the train pa.sses along the Lehigh River and near South Mt., and beyond tlie divergence of the Allentown Line (Route 36) at the E. Penn. R. R. it stops at Allentown {American House, $2.50 a day), the capital of Lehigh County, favorably situated on high ground S. of the Lehigh and at its conflueuce with the Little Lehigh and Jordan Creek. It was foimded by ALLENTOWN. Route 4,5. 305 James Allen in 1762, and "became a city in 1867. There are 17,061 in- habitants, 3 banks, 2 daily pajiers, and 21 churches. The population is to a large extent " Penn, Dutch " (descendants of Germans of the old im- migrations) ; and the domestic architecture is monotonous, comfortable, and cleanly. The streets are broad, straight, rectangular, and well shaded, and are traversed by horse-cars. Hamilton St. is the main thoroughfare, and is 1^ M. long. The stone viaduct over the Jordan valley (1,800 ft, long, 50 ft. high ; 19 arches) and tlie iron bridge over the Lehigh are worthy of notice. The County Prison is a fine building of Potsdam sand- stone, in castellated architecture, overlooking the valley. It cost $ 250,000. The Court House is on the main street ; and the school buildings are of renowned excellence (56 teachers and 3,150 students). The Academy of Natural Science has several cabinets of curiosities. Muhlenberg College is situated on a campus of 5 acres, in the S. E. part of the city. It is a prosperous institution under the patronage of the Lutheran Church, and has 9 professors and 135 students. The Allentown Female College is on high gi'ound in the N. E., and has 83 students. Mammotli Eock is a peak of the Lehigh Mt, 3 M. from Allentown and 1,200 ft. above the plain, whence is gained a comprehensive view of the Lehigh and Saucon Valleys. The remarkable fountains in this vicinity are often visited, and near the principal one is the summer resort known as the Fountain House. 2 M. N. is an extensive cavern. This district was first occupied by the Aliens, whose mansion of Trout Hall stood near the site of Muhlenberg College. It was inherited by Wm. Allen, Chief Justice of Penn., and was laid out in 1762 by James Allen. The first settlers were Germans ; but the lofty situation of tlie place rendered it difficnilt to get a water-supply and lience retarded colonization. In 1777 the bells of Christ Church in Philadelphia were brought here to save them from the British ; and in the same year a large army-hospital was established in the vicinity. The rise of the iron manufacture and the construction of railroads and canals converging on this point, have given the city great importance within 20 years. Coal, lime.stone, and iron ore are found in vast quantities in the vicinity ; and the valley for 10 M. from Allentown is lighted up at night by the lurid glow of many furnaces. The Allentoiun Rolling-Mill has ^2,000,000 capital, covers 4 acres, employs 900 men, and turns out yearly 18,000 tons i)ig-iron, 30,000 tons rails, and 20,000 tons mer- chant iron. The Allentown Iron- IVorks has $800,000 capital, 5 furnaces, and 27 mines, employs 900 men (including miners), consumes yearly 100,000 tons ore, 90,000 tons coal, and 67,000 tons hmestone ; and produces yearly 45,000 tons No. 1 pig-iron. The Lehigh and the Glen Iron Companies also have extensive works ; besides which there are manufactories of boilers, carriages, shoes, woollen goods, and leather ; and 1,200 hands are engaged in tobacco-works. After leaving Allentown the train passes the great furnaces and stops at Catasauqua. The village is seen on the opposite bank of the river, and contains 6,000 inhabitants and 9 churches. In 1839 there were but 2 houses here ; but the rapid development of the iron trade has caused the borough to rise. The Crane Iron Co. has 6 furnaces, employs at the works 1,000 men, and consumed, in 1872, 138,392 tons iron ore, 108,274 tons coal, and 82,400 tons limestone, producing 54,037 tons iron. Penn. hematite and N. J. magnetic ores are used. The Catasainpia M'f'g Co. 306 Route 45. LEHIGH WATER GAP. employs 500 men in making bar-iron and axles ; the Car "Works make 1,500-1,800 coal and freight cars yearly, employing 130 men ; shovels, saws, steam-engines, etc., are made here, and there are large importations of iron ore from liake Champlain and the excellent tough iron of Salis- bury, Conn, (for the Lehigh Car-Wheel Co., -which makes 25,000 wheels yearly). The ancient stone mansion of George Bntler (signer of the Dec- laration of Independence) is above the village, and was a frontier fortress 200 years ago. In Fairview Cemetery, on the commanding hills W. of the Lehigh, is a handsome Soldiers' Monument, of white marble. The Catasauqria £ FogelsviUe R. R. runs from opposite Catasauqua 20 M. S. W. to Alburtis, on the E. Penn. R. R., and is chiefly used for the transi^ortation of iron ore from the great mines of Lehigh County. 4 M. below Catasauqua it crosses the ravine of Jordan Creek on a handsome iron bridge 1,165 ft. long, in 11 arches. At Hokendaitqua (an Indian name meaning " searching for land," — ap- plied to the first settlers), 1 M. beyond Catasauqua, are seen the 4 great furnaces of the Thomas Iron Co., so named in honor of David Thomas of Wales, who introduced into the U. S. the art of making iron by anthracite coal (1840). The engines are of 4,400 horse-power, and $ 1,750,000 capital and 400 men are employed, making yearly 50,000 tons of pig-iron from 125,000 tons ore, 100,000 tons coal, and 75,000 tons limestone. The next sta- tion is Coplay, the seat of the Lehigh Valley Iron Works ($ 600,000 capital ; 110 men; producing 25,000 tons yearly) and the Coplay Hydraulic Cement quarries and kilns (60,000 barrels yearly). A bridge crosses the river to Laubach's, and a railroad runs W. to the ore-beds at Ironton. Station, Whitehall, near the ancient Egypt Church (1742) and opposite Siegfried. The slate region is now traversed, and quai-ries and piles of debris are seen near the track. Tlie railroad was carried through this rugged dis- trict with great difficulty, and at a cost of $ 100,000 a mile. Near Rock- dale the train passes through a cut 100 ft. deep, in a lofty cliflf of slate. Slatington has over 2,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches (of which 2 are American, 2 Welsh, and 1 German). It was founded in 1854, and is the exporting point of the slate region. The slate is of the finest quality of pure clay, and the U. S. Capitol is roofed with squares of it \ inch thick. The quarries have $500,000 capital, employing 600 men; and the pro- duction in 1872 was 67,000 squares of roofing slate, 11,000 squares of school slate, 3,000 cases of mantels, 20,000 ft. of flagging, and 32 tons of blackboards. A branch track runs to the Slatedale quarries, 3^ M. dis- tant. Walnutport is seen on the opposite shore, and large mounds of debris from the quarries are passed as the train moves into the shadow of the Kittatiuny Mts. The * Lehigh Water Gap is the deep gorge in which the Lehigh River flows through the Kittatinny Mts. Tlie tall hills arise on either side directly from the river, and are clad with ancient forests. The Lehigh Gap station is at the foot of the DeviVs Pulpit, a lofty pile of rocks pro- MAUCH CHUNK. Route 45. 307 jecting from the W. ridge. There is a small summer hotel on the E. shore, and the broad deep river affords good boating. Tlie views from the ridges are fine, especially over the peaceful farm-lands of Lehigh County (S ), and through the sinuous pass, which is entirely filled by the railroads, canal, river, and highway. Deposits of ore are found here, from which 5-6,000 tons of mineral paint (in 11 colors) are made yearly. Station, Parryville (E. shore), the seat of the Carbon Iron Works, with 3 furnaces, 150 men, and a yearly product of 7,000 tons. The remarkable rock formations known as the DevWs Garden are near the village. Sta- tion, Lehighton (American House), a large village situated on high ground. 1 M. S. is "The Spring of the Healing Waters," whose medicinal virtues were extolled by the Moravians in 1748. The Mahoning Valley stretches away to Tamaqua, 14 M. S. W., betAveen the Mahoning and Mauch Chunk Mts. In the same vicinity is the great swamp which the Indians called Towamensing, and Count Zinzendorf named St. Anthony's Wilderness. Later fugitives from the Wyoming massacre called it the Shades of Death. Weissport (Fort Allen Hotel) is opposite Lehighton, and contains large iron-works. In 1746 the Moravians established a colony of Christian Mohegan Indians (from Connecticut) near the site of Lehighton, and named it Gnadenhutten (" Tents of Grace "). The missionaries and their converts tilled the soil, and made productive farms along the valley. Brainerd and Zeisberger found a comminiity of 500 per- s00 inhabitants, and is situated on the highlands near the head of Wyalusing Creek. Daily stages run S. E. to Montrose station (Route 44). About 10 M. N. W. is the convent and college of St. Joseph, near Silver Lake. TO WAND A. Route Jf5. 317 Voshurg is 1 M. from Tuukliannock, but the line follows the sinuosities of the river for 6 M. in order to reach it. The hills rise on every side, and the train sweeps around broad curves and passes ever-clianging com- liinations of forest and rock scenery. Stations, Me.shoppen, Black Walnut, Skinner's Eddy, and Laceyville, near each of which are lucrative quarries of blue-stone (for sidewalks and steps). Wyalusing (an Indian name said to signify "the beautiful hunting-grounds") is a plea.sant village near the fruitful Plains of Wyalusing. On these intervales was a large village of Delaware Indians, holding the war-path to the land of the Five Nations. They were taught in a vague pagan morality by the sagacious Papunhank, but were afterwards visited by the Moravian Zeis- bp.rger, who converted Papunhank and his followers. The village Avas jjartially broken up during Pontiac's War, and was refoimded about 1766, bearing the name of Friedenslmtten ("the Tents of Peace"). From the tower of the Moravian-Indian church soiuided the first bell in the upper Susquehanna Valley. In 1772 the people of Wyalusing moved to Ohio; and their memory is honored by a neat granite obelisk, erected by the Moravian Historical Society, just S. of the village. Frenchtotcn is in the district which was inhabited by the refugees from Paris during the Revolution of 1793. They settled upon the lands of liobert Morris, and formed a pleasant village, but returned to France some years after, leaving a few of their number m occupation. The Marquis de Noailles was one of the leaders of these emir/res, and other Koyalist officers were present. Louis Philippe, Duke of Orleans, spent some time at Frenchtowai, and it is claimed that the king and queen were to have joined their nobles here. "The Queen's House" was built in a remote and secluded place in the forest; but Marie Antoinette was doomed to die a ten-ible death in Paris, and could not. exchange the gardens of Versailles for the wilds of Suscpiehanna. Stations, Pciimvierjield, Standing Stone (near a great stone which here stands in the river, and was a land- mark for the early Indians), and Wysauking, a pretty farming village whose name signilies "the Place of Grapes." Stages run N. and E. to Leraysville, Orwell, and Rome (near which are sulphur-springs). The train now runs through straight narrows between high cliffs, and passes Towanda ( Ward House; Mean's Hotel), a thriving and handsome borough situated in a broad bend of the Susquehanna, and much visited in summer. It is the capital of Bradford County, and has nearly 3,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches, a bank, 3 weekly papers, and prosperous manufactories. The Susquehanna Collegiate Institute is a Presbyterian academy situated on a hill S. W. of the village, and has about 230 students (of both sexes). The borough has a lucrative trade with the surrounding country (which is populated with descendants of the New England immigrants of the last century), and exports large quantities of poultry and dairy products. 318 Route 45. ATHENS. The name Tmoanda is said to signify *' the Burial-Place," and is derived from the fact that the Nanticoke Indians, who had moved hither from the E. shore of Maryland, retunied to their ancient domains and removed the bones of their ancestors to this place. Stages run from Towanda to Troy, Orwell, and Canton (26 M.); and the Barclay R. R. inins S. W, np the narrow valley of Towanda Creek to the coal-mines at Barclay, 16 M. distant, under tlie Towanda Mts. The Sullivan ct Erie R. R. runs S. W, from Towanda, leaving tlie Barclay R. R. 7 M, beyond the borough, and passing S., by New Lancaster and Dushore, to Bcrnice (29 M.), situated on a lofty plateau near New Theuringen and Laporte, and in the vicinity of prolitable coal-mines. These railroads are chiefly used for trans- porting bituminous coal, and more than 1,000,000 tons passed over their lines in 1871 - 73, The train now crosses the Susquelianna, and runs N. near the Penn. & N. Y. Canal. Ulster is in the ancient Sheshequin district, formerly a Moravian nussion-station ; and Milan is near the old home of Queen Esther, whose " palace " was destroyed by Sullivan's army in 1779. The line now enters a more open country, and reaches Athens ( Exchange Ho- tel), a prosperous village situated on the intervales at the confluence of the Susquchaima and Chemung Rivers. The Indian village on Tioga Point was known as Diahoga, and was one of the largest in Penn. , being the "South Door" of the "long house "of the Six Nations, and under the guard of the Senecas. Here the Six Nations located the Delawares after thiiir subjugation, and they remained until 1758, when the tribe moved to Wyoming. Tlie Tory-Indian forces rendezvoused here before and after the Massacre of Wyoming, and Sullivan's army encamped here and forti- fied the point in 1779. Athens Avas settled in 1783, and was laid out and organized by Conn, in 1786. It was made a borough in 1831, and has 1,000 inhabitants, witli 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and a large trade in hay, grain, and butter. N. W. of Athens is Spanish Hill, a far-viewing bluff" 178 ft. high, with remains of old fortifications. It is said that Spanish coins have been found there. The Indians called it Spanish Hill, and carefully avoided its vicinity ; and it is held that the military works were erected by the Marqxiis de Nonville in 1688 (perhaps by De Soto, see page 170). The ti'am crosses the Chemung River, passes Sayre, and enters New York State, reaching the Erie Railway at Waverly. Waverly to Buffalo and Niagara, see page 227; to Watkins Glen, see page 208. The Ithaca & Athens R. R runs N. from Athens and Sayre to Ithaca in 40 M., ascending the Cayuta Valley to Van Ettenville, whence it tui-ns E. to Spencer. N. Spencer is near the sulphur and chalybeate waters of Spencer Springs, a suuimer resort with 2 hotels. Skirting the rugged highland towns of Danby and Ncwlield, the train p'asses the hills in whose recesses are the Buttermilk, New- field, and Enfteld Glens, and follows the Cajaiga Inlet to Ithaca (see page 204). MORAVIA. Route 4G. 319 The Southern Central R. R. runs N . from Sayre through Central N. Y. and by Lake Owasco and Auburn, to Fairhaven, on Lake Ontario, intersecting the Erie, Ithaca & Elmira, N. Y. Cen- tral, and Lake Ontario Shore Railroads. Fare from Sayre to Fairhaven, $3.65. Stations. — Sayre ; Sniithboro', 9 M. ; Tioga, 13; Owego, 19; Flemlng\-ille, 23 ; Newark, 28 ; Berkshire, 34 ; Richford, 38 ; Harford, 44 ; Dryden, 50 ; Free- ville, 53 ; Groton, 58 ; Locke, 64 ; Moravia, 08 ; Wyckoff's, 78'; Auburn, 85 ; Weedsport, 95 ; Cato, 103 ; Martville, 111 ; Sterling, 113 (Oswego, 129 ; 386 M. from Phila.) ; Fairhaven, 116. The train diverges to the N. E. at Sayre, and runs along the Susque- hanna River, the track lying Jiear that of the Erie Railway for 13 M. At Owego (see page 227) the line turns N. up the Owego River, and traverses several of the hill-towns of Tioga County. Passing near Dryden Lake (1 M. long; 1,500 ft. above the sea) and the thriving village of Dryden, the Ithaca & Cortland R. R. is intersected at Freeville, and the train crosses the to\\rns of Groton and Locke. Moravia is pleasantly situated on the rich alluvial flats 3 M. S. of the head of Owasco Lake, and is surrounded by picturesque hill-scenery. A pleasant road leads 10 M. N. E. across the town of Sempronius to the sequestered Glen Haven Water Cure, at the head of Skaneateles Lake (see page 200) ; and the beautiful hamlet of Aurora is about 16 M. W., on Cayuga Lake. At Owasco Valley the train reaches Owasco Lake (see page 201), whose W. shore is now followed for 10 M., aifording pleasant views of the narrow and tranquil waters. The Old Road of the N, Y. Central is crossed at Auburn (see page 200), and the New Road is met' at Wcedsport (see page 170), 10 M. N. The train next traverses the towns of Cato and Ira (adjoining Conquest and Victory) intersects tin; Lake Ontario Shore R. R. at Sterling, and reaches its ter- minus at Fairhaven, a port on Little Sodus Bay, one of the best harbors on Lake Ontario. 46. Philadelphia to Saratoga and Montreal Sharon Springs and Otsego Lake. By the N. Penn., Lehigh & Susquehanna, and Delaware & Hudson Canal Co.'s. R;iilroads. The districts whicli are traversed by tliese connecting lines are full of interest, and drawing-room cars reduce tlie hardships of travelling to a mini- mum. The distance from Pliila. to Saratoga by this route is somewhat longer than by way of New York (Routes 37 or 39, 8, and 10), but many travellers prefer it on account of the variety of the hill-scenery. The Saratoga route nearly coin- cides for 125 M. with the Lehigh Valley route to Central New Yorlc (using also with that line the N. Penn. R. R. to Bethlehem) ; and as the latter is perhaps the more important, the country between Phila. and Wilkes-Barre is described under its heading (Route 45). Information relative to fares, excursion-tickets, and con- nections may be obtained in Phila. at 700 Chestnut St., 105 S. Fifth St., or the N. Penn. station ; and in New York at the station of the Central R. R. of N. J. (foot of Liberty St.). Through cars run from Phila. to Scrauton (also from N. Y. to Williamsport or Scranton). Stations. — .V. Penn. R. R. — Philadelphia ; York Road, 7 M. ; Port Washing- ingtnn, 10 ; Lansdale, 22 ; Souders, 27 ; Quakertown, 38 ; Coopersburg, 44 ; Beth- lehem, 55. Lehigh & Suaquehanna R. R. (running from Easton, 11 M. N. E. of Bethlehem). — AUentown, 60 ; Catasauqua, 64 ; Laubach's, 66 ; Siegfried's Bridge 320 Route 4G. NESQUEHONING VALLEY. 67 ; Treichlev's, 71 ; Walnutport, 75 ; Lehigh Gap, 78 ; Parryville, S3 ; Weissport, 85 ; Lehightou, 86 ; Maucli Chunk, 89 ; Penn Haven Junction, 96 ; Rockport 104 ; White Haven, 110 ; Penobscot, 123 ; Asliley, 136 ; Wilkes-Barre, 139 ; Pitts- ton, 148 ; Moosic, 152 ; Scranton, 158 ; Green Ridge, 160. Del. & Hudson R. R. — Providence, 161; Dickson, 162; Olyphant, 164 ; Peckville, 165 ; Archbald, 169 ; Gibsonburg, 172; C'arbondale, 176. Jeffcrsoyi Branch, Eric Raihvay. — Forest City, 131; Uniondale, 187 ; Herrick Centre, ISO; Ararat Summit, 194; Thompson's, 200 ; Starucca, 203 ; Nineveli Junction, 211 (divergence of tlie Erie R. R. to Bing- hamton). Nineveh Branch. — Comstock, 218 ; Windsor, 221 ; Ouaquaga, 224 ; Centre Village, 220; Nineveh, 232. Albany & Susquehanna R. R. (main line). — Binr^hamlon to Nineveh, 23 M. ; Afton, 237 M. (from Phila.); Bainbridge, 243; Sidney, 248 ; Unadilla, 252 ; Wells Bridge, 256 ; Otego, 261 ; Oneonta, 269 ; Col- liei's, 275; C. & S. V. R. R. Junction, 276 (branch to Cooperstown, 292); Mary- land, 281 ; Schenevus, 284; W^orcester, 280 ; E. Worcester, 204; Richmondville, 301; Cobleskill, 306 (branch to Hyndsville, 311; Seward, 315; Sharon Springs, 320; Cherry VaUey, 329); Howe's Cave, 312; Central Bridge, 315 (branch to Schoharie, 319^ ; Middleburg, 325^) ; Esperance, 320 ; Quaker Street, 324 (branch to Schenectady, 339); Duanesburg, 327; Knowersville, 334; Guilderland, 337; New Scotland, 340; Slingerlands, 344; Albany, 351 (Boston, 552); Saratoga, 389 ; Montreal, 628. The train leaves tlie station on Berks St., Phila,, and runs N. over the N. Penn. E. R. (Route 45) to Bethlehem (see page 301). At this point the Lehigh & Susquehanna R. R. is intersected (coming from Easton, 11 M. N. E. ), and tlie train turns to the S. W. up the valley of the Lehigh, with the Lehigh Valley R. R. on the opposite shore under the slopes of South Mt. Allentown is soon seen, crowning a symmetrical hill on the 1., and is reached from the station by crossing the Lehigh River and the fine viaduct over the Jordan valley (see page 304). The line now ascends tlie valley through a rich mining district, passing Catasauqua (see page 305) and Hokendauqua, and at Lauhach's (opposite Coplay) the slate region is entered. Siegfried is opposite Whitehall; the flour and lumber mills of Treichler are opposite Rockdale ; and Walnutpm-t is opposite the great slate-quarries of Slatington (see page 306). The long dark ridge of the Blue Mt. is now approached, and the train traverses the narrow pass which is called the Lehigh Water Gap. The next important stations are Parrymlle, near valuable paint-mines and iron-works; and Weissport, opposite Lehighton, to which the train passes by a bridge over the river. The Big Creek and Mauch Chunk Mts, are now rapidly approached, and beyond Packerton (Lehigh Valley R. R. coal-depot) the line traverses a narrow and winding gorge and reaches Maucli Chunk (see page 307). The picturesque church and village, the spacious Mansion House, and the terminal peak of the Summit Hill R. R., are seen as the train sweeps on to Coalport, the chief coal-depot of this line. The Nesquehoning Valley Branch diverges from Maueh Chunk and traverses a rugged country to Tamanend, 18 M. S. W., showing some bold and imposing works of engineering. The Nesquehoning Valley lies between Broad Mt. (r.) and Sharp Mt. (i.), and near its end the line passes through Broad Mt. in a tunnel 5,000 ft. long. Beyond Hometown the wild gorge of the Little Schuylkill is crossed on a timber bridge 1,200 ft. long and 158 ft. high ; and the train passes on to Tamanend (under Mahanoy Mt.), where it connects with the Catawissa R. R, for WiUiainsport (see Route 47). CARBONDALE. Route 46. 321 Beyond Coalport the line ascends through picturesque scenery, and at Penn Haven tlie branch railroads are seen diverging to the W. betAveen Broad and Spring Mts. The Lehigh Valley R. R. crosses the present route several times, and the two lines run up side by side to Whitehaven, whence the Nescopec Branch runs along the dreary highlands of the Green Mt. to Upper Lehigh, 8 M. W. Leaving the Lehigh River tlie train now strikes across the Nescopec Mt. to the N. W. ; passes through a tunnel 1,800 ft. long, and traverses a wide and desolate plateau. The two rail- roads run nearly parallel as far as Solomon's Gap, passing Penobscot (Fairview), with its broad prospect down the Wapwallopen Valley. At Solomon's Gap the L. V. R. R. begins the descent of the rats, by running to the W. ; and the present route turns to the N. E. and passes Laurel Run, ^ M. from Prospect Rock (which commands a superb * view). Rounding the ridge the train descends to the S. W., doubling on its pre- vious course, with the * Valley of Wyoming outspread on the r. The track is on a lofty gallery cut out from the side of the mt. , and descends on a grade of 96 ft. to 1 M. Reaching the level of the Valley the line once more reverses its course and runs N. E. through Ashley to Wilkos- Barre, the metropolis of Wyoming (see page 312). From this point the Valley is followed about midway between the Susquehanna River and the W. range of mts. through a region abounding in coal-mines and enor- mous breakers. Near Pittstonjhe lofty cliff of Campbell's Rock is seen, and the line runs up the Lackawanna Valley to Scranton (see page 246). Crossing the Roaring Brook valley the great round-houses and workshops of Scranton are seen on the r., and the line is carried across the Pine Brook valley to the suburb of Green Ridge, where connections are made with the Delaware & Hudson Canal Co. 's R. R. Crossing the Lackawan- na River and ascending its valley, between the Moosic and Lackawanna Mts., numerous collieries are passed, with villages which are inhabited mostly by foreigners and miners. From Olyphant begins the ascent of the Gravity Railroad, crossing Moosic Mt. to Honesdale ; and beyond the modern and populous villages of Archbald and Gibsonburg the train reaches Carbondale. This is a modern city of 6,393 inhabitants, situated at the N. end of the anthracite-coal district, and nearly surrounded by tall ridges. There is but little to interest the traveller in this vicinity, except the collieries and tlieir engineering Avorks. There are 4 large coal- mines near the city, with beds of anthracite 20 ft. in thickness. The ex- tensive car-shops of the D. k H. R. R. are located here ; and in the vicinity is the track of the Gravity Road, on which long trains of coal- cars are drawn on inclined planes to the top of Moosic Mt. (850 ft.) by stationary engines. From the summ,it they descend to Honesdale, 16 M. distant, where the coal is discharged into the boats of the Delaware k, Hudson Canal, and is carried by that route to the Hudson River. There 14* u 322 Route JfS. SIDNEY PLAINS. are 2 planes between Olyphant and Carbondale, and 8 between Carbon- dale and Honesdale ; over which continuous trains are passing, seemingly without any impelling force. The empty cars are sent back over another series of planes. Stages run daily from Carbondale to Honesdale (16 M. ). 6 M. N. W. of the city is the mountain-loch called Crystal Lake, with a summer hotel and a small steamboat. The train now runs N. on the Jefferson Branch of the Erie Railway, crossing the E. part of the cold and mountainous Susquehanna County. The country is wild, and in places assumes an air of picturesque beauty, and the settlements are few and small. Most of the inhabitants are engaged in the lumber or tannery business. On the E. are the rugged ridges of the Moosic ML ; and W. of Uniondale is Elk Mt., the last of the Tunkhannock Mts. Beyond Herrick the train ascends the great spur of the Alleghenies called Ararat Mt., and at Summit station attains an altitude of 2,500 ft. above the sea (the highest point reached by any regular railroad E. of the Rocky Mts. ). The scenery is bold and striking as the train advances to Thomjysnn, a lumber village situated in a lofty glen. Starucca (Mountain Hoiise) is next passed, and the train descends, by Stephen spoint, to the banks of the Susquehanna River. The through train passes to Nineveh, by the Nineveh Branch (in 22 M.), and the Erie runs N. W. to Binghamton (see page 226). Binghamton to Nineveh. The train leaves the Erie station at Binghamton, and runs N. W. through a region of high hills and sinyuliir glens, passing the Inebriate Asylum on the r. Stations, Port Crane, Osborne Hollow, and Tunnel, where a tunnel i M. long is traversed. This cutting was difficult, because of the hardness of the rock ; but exposure to the air caused it to crumble, until an inner arch of firm stone was built. The A. & S. and the Erie Railways at one time contested the possession of this tunnel, and moved several thousand men on the ground. The so-called Erie War was only quelled by the occupation of the place by troops of the State. Station, Nineveh, on the Susquehanna River. Beyond Nineveh the line traverses the broad intervales of the river, which curves gracefully through farms and cultivated fields. Station, A/ton, a prosperous village with a suspension-bridge over the river. Vallonia Springs {Sjiring House) is a highland hamlet, amid picturesque scenery to the S., with stages to Afton. The waters contain sulphur, magnesia, and iron, are strongly prophylactic, and are efficient in cuta- neous diseases. Station, Bainhridge, a brisk village in a wide valley, which is well cultivated and fertile. Stages run to Coventry, Greene, Oxford, Norwich, Guilford, and Deposit. Station, Sidney Plains {Dela- ware House; Bartlett House), where settlements were formed in 1772, and destroyed in 1777 by the Indians. It was founded by Rev. Wm. Johnson, and was named for Admiral Sir Sidney Smith. The highway to Catskill was bidlt by the State in 1790. The Midland Railroad COOPERSTOWN. Route 4^. 323 (Route 32) crosses the present route at this point. Station, Unadilla, (Unadilla House), a thriving village from which stages run to Walton, Butteniuts, Cannonsville, and Delhi. The train crosses the Susquehanna twice, and stops at Otego (Otego House), whence stages run to Franklin, Walton, and Delhi. Station, Oneonta (Grand Central Hotel ; Susque- hanna House), a factory village Avith stage-routes to Morris, Laurens, and Delhi. Colliers (Goodyear House) is at the confluence of Schenevus Creek and the Susquehanna. 1 M. beyond (75 M. from Albany; 67 M. from Binghamton is the C. & S. V. R. R. Junction, whence trains run to CooperstoAvn in 1 hr. (16 M. N.). Cooperstown {* Cooper House, .$4 a day, $16-25 a week; Fenimore House ; Central House) is situated at the foot of Otsego Lake, where the Susquehanna River flows forth. It is surrounded by hills, and from tlse beauty of the scenery and the purity of the highland air it has become a favorite summer resort. Besides the large hotels, there are many fine man.'jions in the village, and the resident society is of a high order. The Cooper House is 1,100 ft. above the sea, and from its vicinity Otsego Lake is overlooked and the rolling hills on eitlier side. A broad view is gained from the lofty Observatory Hill. This place was occupied by Clinton's army in 1779, when a dam was erected at the outlet in order to allow the boat-expedition to pass doAvn the river. In 1786 Judge Wm. Cooper came here with his family, and made the first settlement. Cooperstown is the capital of Otsego County, and has nearly 2,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches and 4 banks. It has been visited by Washington, Talleyrand, and other eminent men. James Fenimore Cooper was born at Burlington, N. J., in 1789, studied at Yale, and served in the U. S. Navy 6 years (1805-11). Between 18i21 and 1833 he wrote many novels, depicting scenes of naval adventure ("Wing and Wing," " The Pilot," •' The Water Witch," etc.) and episodes in early N. Y. history and Indian life ("The Pioneer." "The Deerslayer," etc.). He also wrote works on foreign travel, and several naval histories. He lived at Cooperstown, whose vicinity has been made classic by his eloquent descriptions. " Here he passed his childhood, with the vast forests around him, stretching up the mts. that overlook the lake and far beyond, in a region where the Indian yet roamed and the white hunter .... sought his game ; a region in which the bear and the wolf were yet hunted, and the panther, more formidable than either, larked in the thickets, and tales of wanderings in the wilderness and encounters with these fierce animals beguiled the length of the winter nights." In his later years Mr. Cooper retired to his estate in Cooperstown, and here he died in 1851. " The enduring monuments of Fenimore Cooper are his works. While the love of country continues to prevail, his memory will exist in the hearts of the people." (D. Webster.) " The works of our great national novelist have adorned and purified our literature." (Everett.) " Cooper empliatically be- longs to the nation. He has left a space in our literature which cannot easily be supplied." (Irving.) "The creations of his genius shall sui-\'ive through centuries to come, and only perish with our language." (Bryant.) " We accord to Cooper an equal degree of talent and power with that ascribed to Scott, and would place the originality of the American author at a higher point. There is certainly in Cooper more power of concentration, a more epigrammatic style, and greater terseness of expression." {Eclectic Review.) 324 Route 46. COOPERSTOWN. Tlie Toinb of Cooper is near the front of Christ Church (in which are brilliant naemorial windows), and is a plain horizontal slab inscribed with his name. " Let Cooper sleep with his kindred in the old churchyard, needing no sculptured monument to mark the pathway to his grave, deeply worn by hundreds of pilgrim feet year after year." Near the foot of the main street is the site of the old Cooper mansion, Otsego Hall, which was burnt in 1854. Lakewood Cemetery is 1 M. distant (E. side of the lake), and contains the Cooper monument (by Launitz; of Italian marble ; 25 ft. high), which is surmounted by a statue of the legendary hunter Leathei'stocking, " a man who had the simplicity of a woodsman, the heroism of a savage, the faith of a Christian, and the feeling of a poet." " But dearer than all, in liis gentle simplicity, honest-hearted Natty, the greatest creation of Cooper's jien, haunts the lake and woods around, hunting the deer with dog and gun, the kindliest si)irit of the band. Sometimes, as the Deer- slayer, he is seen near the Fairy Spring, his grave, youthful face unmoved by the beauty of Judith Hutter, that alluring Lady of the Lake whose dark eyes fasci- nate us even from the written page, and make us wonder at the severity of this forest Galahad. Then, as Leatherstocking, the mighty hunter, advanced in-years, Ymt honest-hearted still, he is sometimes visible, coming down from the cave that bears his name, gliding in his canoe across Blackbird Bay, or crossing the Vision in haste to rescue from the panther's cruel claws the fair form of Elizabeth Temple The old trapper, with his white hairs and trembUng steps, has returned to the Haunted Lake, and at early daAvn his bowed figure appears at rare intervals standing on Otsego Rock, shading his eyes from the burning sun, and gazing over the Glimmerglass, the scene of his youthful exjiloits, with earnest interest. Dear old Natty, —faithful, kindly wraith !" Hannah's Hill (named for Cooper's daughter) is about 1\ M. from the village (W. shore), and commands a view of which the great novelist says, "■ 1 have seldom looked upon a more bewitching scene. The lakes of Cumberland will scarce compete with this." Mt. Vision is nearly 2 M. from the village (E. shore), and overlooks the lake and its diversified shores. The best view is obtained from the arbor on Prospeet Rock, al- though the summit of the mt. commands the rugged Black Hills in the S. Leatherstocking' s Cave is 1^ M. from the village (E. shore), and the Leatherstocking Falls are on the same side, at the head of a ravine near the lake (frequently visited by boat). These falls are also called the Panther's Leap, in allusion to an old tradition. The Council Rock is near the outlet, a few rods from the shore, and is a round-topped bowlder about 4 ft. high. " At a small round rock near the foot of the lake, where .... the tribes are given to resorting to make their treaties and bury their hatchets. Tliis rock have I often heard the Delawares men- tion." The Mohegan Glen is 3 M. distant (near Wild Rose Point), and contains several small cascades. Among the usual drives are Hartwick Seminary and Lakes (5 M.), Bear Cliff Falls (3 M.), the Beaver Meadow (7 M.), and the Westford and Pierstown Hills. Rum Hill, 7 M. distant, commands a prospect of over 60 M. Highways lead to Cherry Valley (13 M.), Richfield Springs (12-15 M.), and Sharon Springs (20 M.). OTSEGO LAKE. Route 46. 325 Otsego Lake. " O Haunted Lake, from out whose silver fountains The mighty Susquehanna takes its rise ; O Haunted Lake, among the pine-clad mountains. Forever smiling upward to the skies, — " A master's hand hath painted all thy beauties ; A master's mind hath peopled all thy shore ■With wraiths of mighty hunters and fair maidens, Hunting thy forest-glades forevermore." " The magic of his genius lingers around the lake he so lovingly described. Its points and baj'^s are haunted, and its forests are peopled with wraiths and shades. A listener under the trees on a dreamy summer day will hear the low, musical laugh of Wah-ta-wah, the gentle Indian maiden, and catch a glimpse of the young chieftain, her lover, in the distance through the forest arches. Sometimes, at dusk, the camp-fires of the Iroquois gleam from the gravelly points of the E. sliore : and off Hyde Bay, where the rushes wave on the shoal, the dim outline of Muskrat Castle can still be traced ; and the faint strains of an old-time hymn are heard strangely sweet over the water, — the even-song of innocent Hetty at her mother's grave. On a moonlight night the solitary oarsman is startled by the flapping of unseen canvas ; and silently appearing from the realms of nowhere, the ark glides slowly into view, old Hutter at the helm, and the gigantic form of Harrj' Hurry lounging in the doorway." "A broad sheet of water, so placid and limpid that it resembled a bed of the pure mt. atmosphere compressed into a setting of hills and woods Nothing is wanted but ruined castles and recollections to raise it to the level of the scenery of the Rhine." (Cooper.) "AwayW. stretched the calm plane of the Otsego, narrow like a river ; . . . . beautiful, uncommonly beautiful mt. shores shutting it in, and the slopes on the far side charmingly pictured with cultiva- tion. A lake's mirror was never set in a prettier cncadrement by the frame-making eddies of the retiring deluge, and .... its entire regilding by the sunsets is visible from every quarter of the town. The path of the eye from Cooperstown is up a 9 M. reach of wooded water." (N. P. Willis.) Otsego Lake is 9 M. long by 1 - 1^ M. wide, and is bounded by lofty hill ranges, reaching to the height of 4 - 600 ft. on the E. shore. The steamboats Pioneer and Satty Bumppo make several trips daily, con- necting, at the head of the lake, with stages for Cherry Valley and Rich- held Springs (7 M. ; see page 247). As the boat moves out, Hannah's Hill is seen on the W. (1.), and Mt. Vision on the r., along whose base are the estates of Lakelands and Bowers, the Lakewood Cemetery and monu- ment, and the picturesque Chalet, where Cooper spent his later years. Here is the landing for Leatherstocking's Cave, and above (2 M. from Cooperstown) is Point Judith. On the W. shore are seen Blackbird Bay, the estate of the late Judge Nelson, of the U. S. Supreme Court, and the groves on Brookwood Point (2 M.). Wild Rose (or 3 M.) Point is on the W., and is a resort for boat-parties {Thayer's Hotel). Tunicliff's (5 M.) Point is now seen with its summer hotel, nearly opposite the Dugway, or Deer Brook. Mt. Wellington, or the Sleeping Lion (so called from its form), is now seen looming in advance. This hill is often ascended by tourists for its broad oif-look. Passing Gravelly Point (E. ; 6 M. ) and the site of Muskrat Castle (W. ; 1\ M.), the steamer soon reaches the head of the lake. The village of Springfield is 1 M. distant, and a pleasant road leads 326 Route 46. SHARON SPRINGS. across the town of Warren, by the Twin Lakes (called by the Indians, Waiontha) to Richfield Springs (see page 247). Beyond Colliers the line leaves the Susquehanna and enters the narrow Schenevus Valley, remarkable for its ancient river-terraces. Stations, Maryland^ Schenevus (stages to Davenport and Bloomville, in the Char- lotte Valley), and Worcester (Knapp's Hotel), a busy village among the hills. E. Worcester and Richmoudville are now passed, and the water- shed between the Mohawk and Susquehanna is crossed. Cobleskill (Blodget Hoitse ; National Hotel) is a prosperous hamlet, 900 ft. above the sea, with several factories. Fort du Bois was built here during the Revolution, and an American force was defeated (m 1778) by Mohawks under the chieftain Brant, with serious loss. A branch railroad runs N. from Cobleskill by Sharon Springs to Cherry Valley (23 M.). ascending the Westkill Valley and passing the stations of Hj^idsville and Seward, in the hilly uplands of Schoharia County. This region was settled, about the middle of the last century, by frugal and industrious Palatinate Germans. Sharon Springs. Hotels. — * Pavilion, on the hill over the village, $4.50 a day (600 guests); * Congress Hall (400 guests) and * Union Hall (300 guests), at the Springs. The two latter have a German cuisine and. patronage, and charge $4 a daj'(.'S25aweek). Mansion House, new in 1873, 75 guests, $ 14 a week ; United States (150 guests); Sharon i American ; Rowland ; and several suTumer boarding-houses. At Rock- ville, J M.from the Springs, are 2 large and inexpensive hotels (§10-15 a week; free carriage to tlie Springs). Railroad to Albany in 59 M. ; New York, 201 M. ; Philadelphia, 320 M. ; Cherry Valley, 9 M. Stages run daily to Palatine Bridge, on the N. Y. Central R. R. (9 M. N. ; fare, $1.50). Stages await the arrival of all trains at the Springs station. Sharon Springs is situated in a naiTOw upland valley surrounded by high hills, about 1 M. from the railroad. It is the favorite summer re- sort of the German citizens of the Republic, and has been called " the Baden Baden of America." In 1781 a sharp action occurred 2 M. E. of the Springs between 300 Tories and Indians (encumbered with plunder and prisoners) and an American force under Col. Willett, in which the former were routed with severe loss. Tlie town was named after Sharon, Conn., and the Springs village was incorporated in 1872. The springs are situated near the base of a high Avooded bluft' W. of the village, and flow into a small stream below, depositing a crust of white and flocculent sulphur. There are 4 mineral springs, — chalybeate, magnesia, white sulphur, and blue sulphur, — and a copious fountain of pure water opens above. Below Congress Hall, Brimstone Brook is crossed by an orna- mental rustic bridge which leads into Congress Park, which is laid out in walks among the trees on the hillside. Near the centre cff the Park is a graceful domed canopy, supported by 18 fluted Corinthian columns of iron. CHERRY VALLEY. Route 46. 327 over the Magnesia Spring (in each gallon, 31 grains of bi-carbonate of magnesia, 23 of sulphate of magnesia, 76 of sulphate of lime, and 3 J cubic inches of sulphuretted hydrogen), A short distance beyond is the Gard- ner Magnesi-a Spring (in each gallon, 20 grains of sulphate of magnesia, 94 of sulphate of lime, etc.). The White Sulphur Spring contains in each gallon, 85 grains of sulphate of lime, 34 of sulphate of magnesia, 24 of bi-carbonate of magnesia, and 21 cubic inches of sulphuretted hydrogen. The waters are free to those Avho wish to drink, and the Magnesia Spring is a valuable remedial agent; but the specialty of the place is its sulphur- baths, for which there are large bath-houses at and below Congress Hall (160 in number ; 40c. a bath). The usual hour for bathing is between 11 and 12 a. m. The waters are held to be efficacious in diseases of the blood, skin, and liver, and in rheumatic and neuralgic affections. Since the year 1830, when these springs became known beyond the town, the number of visitors has steadily increased, imtil it now amounts to over 10,000 a year. Below the Swiss cottage at the N. end of the Park are the houses where the singular Pine Needle baths are given. Tliey are tonic in effect, and are used for nervous and pulmonary complaints, par- alysis, scrofula, and neuralgia. They are prepared by adding to the mag- nesia water a portion of the extract of pine (from the German Black Forest), and their effect is agreeable. The administration of mud-baths (for rheumatics) was commenced in 1873. The patient is covered to the chin with mud impregnated with sulphur and heated to about 110 de- grees. In this vicinity are grottos in which are found stalactites and beautiful crystals of sulphate of lime. From the hill on which the Pavilion is situ- ated is obtained an extensive * view, embracing the broad and populous Mohawk Valley, with the Adirondacks beyond and the Green Mts. in the remote distance. A favorite drive is that to Prospect Hill (3 M. ), from which another and yet broader prospect is gained. Visitors also drive to Cherry Valley (7-8 M.) and N. to Palatine Bridge (9 M.). Cherry Valley {Park Hotel, open in summer only; Palmer House) is 9 M, from Sharon by R. R., and is favorably situate\ M. from the entrance. During the summer the cave is frequently lighted with gas as far as the lake. Guides accompany visitors, each of whom pays $1.50. The temperature is 60", and the air is pure and dry, benefiting lung com- plaints. Many thousand visitors enter the cave every year, and it is only excelled by the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. The entrance is 50 ft. above the valley, and the rock chambers known as the Reception Room, Washington Hall, the Bridal Chamber, and the Cliapel are traversed in succession. The Harlequin Tunnel is then passed through, beyond which are the Cataract Hall, Ghost Room, and Music Hall. The Stygian Lake is 30 X 20 ft. (10 ft. deep), and is illuminated with fantastic effect by a cluster of gas-jets. Large stalagmites are found above and below the lake, and the passage has been cut out at much expense. Crossing the lake to Plymoutli Rock in a small boat, the path follows a small brook, and traverses the chambers and passages known as the Devil's Gateway, Museum, Geological Room, Uncle Tom's Cabin, Giant's Study, Pirate's Cave, Rocky Mts., and Valley of Jehosaphat. Then the Winding Way is followed to the Rotunda,, which is at present the limit of the incursion. Stalactites and other singular geological formations are found in these halls and passages, and imaginative visitors have named several of the stalagmites for the objects which they are thought to resemble. 3 M. from Howe's Cave is the Central Bridge station (2 inns), whence the Schoharie Valley R. R. runs S. to Schoharie (5 M.) and Middleburgh, Schoharie ( Wood's Hotel ; Parrott House) is the capital of Schoharie County, and is situated in a fertile valley among high hills. It has 1,500 inhabitants and 3 churches. The town was settled by Palatinate Germans in 1711, and in 1777 the Lower Fort was established here. The stone church (built in 1772) was surroimded by a high stockade, and was fur- nished with military supplies. The building still stands, and many of its stones are carved with the names of the builders. There are several remarkable caves near Schoharie. BalVs Cave (4 M. E.) is 100 ft. below the surface, and is visited in boats which are rowed on a subterranean stream. Nothaway's Cave is 2 M. S. E. Stages run from the village to HELDERBERG MTS. Route 4G. 329 Gallup ville. Middlehurgh (Atchinson House ; Freemyer's) is 5 M. be- yond Schoharie, and is a large village among rugged hills. It occupies the site of the old Palatine village of Weisersdorf, one of the 7 cIot/s or villages of the Rhenish Germans in this valley. The original OAvners of the land were the Schoharie clan of the Six Nations. Several sharp skirmishes took pLace hereabouts during the Revolution; and many of the rustics became Tories, and moved to Canada at the close of the war. Stages run from Middleburgh to several of the hamlets among the Western Catskills (Durham, Prattsville, Gilboa, etc.), and to N. Blenheim, which is near UtsyantMa Lake, a mountain loch 1,800 ft. higli, where the Dela- ware River takes its rise. Beyond Central Bridge the main line passes the village of Esperance, and reaches Quaker Street station, whence a branch railroad diverges to the N. E., descends into the Mohawk Valley, crosses the river and the N. Y. Central R. R. at Schenectady, and runs to Ballston and Saratoga. Through passengers for Saratoga take this route and avoid the long detour to Albany. Tlie road to Albany now i-uns nearly E., and soon enters the valley of Norman's Kill, on the N. of the rugged Helderberg Mts. Sta- tions, Duanesburgh, Knowersville, and Guilderland, above which the bold palisaded sides of the Helderberg Mts. rise to a height of over 800 ft. The Helderbergs (" clear mts.," from their broad prospects) attain an ele- vation of 1,200 ft. above the sea, and are remarkable for their precipitous E. slopes. They are an outlying group of the Catskill system, and occupy all the W. part of Albany Coanty. Station, New Scotland, near Lawsnn's Lake, whose outlet runs for J M. underground, through a cavern abound- ing in stalactites and populated by bats. Near this point are several siiik- holes5-8 ft. wide and 12-20 ft. deep, connected by a roomy cavern which was formerly a smuggler's resort and depository. Near Clarksville, a hamlet at the foot of the Helderbergs, are 2 caves, respectively ^ M.and ^ M. long. The line now descends by the impetuous Norman's Kill, passes the stations of Slingerlands and Adamsville, and approaches the Hudson River. The imposing Academy of the Sacred Heart is seen on the L; and after traversing the long S. suburbs, the train stops at the station in Albany (see page 85). Albany to Saratoga and Montreal, see page 93. 330 Route 47. READING R. R. 47. Philadelphia to Reading and WiUiamsport. The Schuylkill Coal-Fields. By the Phila. & Re;ulin>^ K. R., ;ui iiiipoi-tant trunk line over which immense quantities of coal are transported. Numerous brandies diverj,'e from tlie line on either side, especially among the carboniferous hills of Sclmylkill County. The Schuylkill River is followed for nearly 100 M., and for a great portion of the way Icads'through a rich and pleasant rural district. Beyond" the Germanic county of Berks, a hilly and rugged region is traversed to the valleys of the Lackawanna and Susquehanna Rivers. This route is also available for travellers bound to the Penn. oil-regions, and to W. Penn. and N. Y. (by its connections with the Phila. & Erie R. R. and the N. Central R. R. ). Tickets and information respecting the route may be obtained in Phila. at 024 Cliestnut St., S. E. corner of Sth and^ Chestnut Sts., and the corner of 9th and Chestnut Sts. ; also at the terminal sta-* tion, corner of 13th and Callowhill Sts. Stations. — Philadelphia ; Belmont, 3.V M. : W. Falls, 5 ; Pencovd, 6J ; W. Jlanayuuk Ih ; W. Mill Creek, 9^ ; W. Spring Mill, 12 ; W. Conshohocken, 13^ ; Sweiie Furnace, 15 ; Bridgeport (Norristown), 17 {Cliester Valley R. 11. to Hende'r- son, 19 ; King of Prussia, 20i : Centreville, 23 ; Gardens, 24 ; Howellville, 2oA ; Paoli Road, 26^; Cedar Hollow, 27; Mill Lane, 30; Exton, 33; Oakland, 35; Downington, 38^); Merion, 19; Port Kennedy, 21^; Valley Forge, 23i ; Perkio- nien Junction, 25 {Perkiometi It. 11. to Doe Run, 2Si ; CoUegeville, 31 ; Rahn's, 32* : Schwenksvillc, 30 ; Salford, 39 ; Green Lane, 43 ; Welker's, 40 ; Pennsburg, 48) ; Phoenixville, 27^ {Plckeriii'j Valley R. R. to Kimberton, 31}; Chester Springs, 35; Byers, 38^) ; Mingo, liOh ; Royer's Ford, 32 ; Limerick, 34 ; Pottstowu, 40 (Cole- Vrookdale R R. to Glasgow, 42 ; Manatawny, 44 ; Colebrookdale, 47 ; Bechtcls- ville, 52 ; Mt. Pleasant, 53^) ; Douglassville, 44^ ; Monocacy, 47i ; Birdsboro', 49 ; Exeter, 52 ; Neversink, 54 ; Reading, 58 (crossing of Allentown Line, to New York, 128 M. ; to Hanisburgh, 54 M. — from Rending) ; Tuckerton, 63 ; Leesjiort, 66; Mohrsville, 08^; Hamburg, 75; Port Clinton, 78 (Pottsville, etc., see jiage 334) ; Drehersville, S3 ; Ringgold, 88 ; Reynold's, 93 ; Tamaqua, 98 ; E. Mahanoy Junction, 103.V. Catawissa R. R. — Tamanend. lOOj ; Quakake, 107 ; Summit. 110 ; Girard, 114; Mahanoy, 118J ; Ringtown, 123; Beaver, 131 ; McAuley, 136; Main- ville. 138i ; Catawissa, 145 ; Rupert. 147 ; Danville, 154i ; Mooi-sburg, 101 ; Potts- gj-ove, IGO : ])ougal, 109 ; Mibon, 170 ; While Deer, 175 ; Allenwood, 177 ; Mont- gomery, 181^ ; Muncy, 186|^ ; Hall's, 189^ ; Montoursville, 195 ; WiUiamsport, 199. The Noi-ristown R. K. leaves the station at the coi'ner of 9th and Greene Sts., Phila., and runs N. W. through the city. Just beyond Broad St. the Connecting R. R. is crossed and the Germantown Branch diverges to the r., while the Norris- town ti-ain passes on to Wissahickon stiition, near the Wissahickon Creek (see page 284). The line now follows the Schuylkill through the manufacturing suburb ofManayunk, with W. Laurel Hill and Pencoyd on the opposite shore. The river is kept in sight until Norristown is reached. The Reading train leaves the terminal station at the corner of Broad and Callowhill Sts., and soon passes Fairmouut and Lemon Hill and en- ters Fairmount Park. Pleasing views are afforded of the great garden of Phila., as the track passes Fountain Green and Mt. Pleasant and crosses the Schuylkill on a neat bridge. Several park-trains are run daily, stop- ping at Coates St. (Fairmount), Brown St. (Lemon Hill), Thompson St. (Girard Ave. Bridge), IMifflin Lane, E. end of Schuylkill Bridge, and Bel- mont (see page 283). The curves of the river are now followed, and the coal-branch R. R. is seen crossing on a fine viaduct. Beyond the mouth of the Wissahickon (N. shore), Pencoyd is reached, near the W. Laurel Hill Cemetery. On the opposite shore are the great factories of Mana- yunk, and thriving handets are seen on either side as the train speeds on VALLEY FORGE. Route 47. 331 into Montgomery County. ConshoJwcken is a manufacturing borough of over 3,000 inhabitants, vvitli a branch R. R. running N. E. to Oredale, on the N. Penn. R. R. From Bridgej^ort a fine view is afforded of Norris- town ( Be Kalh House ; Exchange), on • the opposite shore. It is a borough of 10,753 inhabitants, with 13 churches and 4 newspapers, and contains the stately marble Court House of Montgomery County. Ou the heights to the S. are seen the fine buildings of 2 large academies. Near the Court House is a monument in honor of the soldiers of the county who fell in the Secession War. The situation of Norristown is very pleasant, and its streets are neat and well built. The manufactures here are of considerable importance, and are assisted by the water-power of the Schuylkill Canal. Tlie town occupies the site of the ancient Swedes' Ford, and was named in honor of Isaac Norris, who bought the land ivoTCi William Penn. It was owned by John Bull, an ardent Ameri- can gentleman, hi 1777; and the British army destroyed his house and laid waste the estate. The diester Valley R. R. nnis 22 M. S. W. up the Great Valley, through a fertile limestone region abounding in fine old farms, and with a tall and wall-like ridge of nits, on the r. The line terminates at Downington, on the Penn. R. R. 7 M. beyond Bridgeport the Reading train reaches Valley Forge, where, just beyond the station (in the valley to the 1.), is seen the ancient farm- house which was used as Washington's head-quarters during the darkest months of the Revolution, After the repulse at German town, and while the British troops were comfort- ably quartered in Phila., Washington led his broken army to Valley Forge, and on Dec. 18. 1777, began the construction of winter-quarters. Here the famished and half-elad Continentals remained for 6 months, suffering the horrors of a rigorous winter, and menaced by the powerful Anglo-German army of 20,000 men at Phila. The American forces numbered 11,000 men, and occupied lines of huts on the hills to the S. and E., along the r. bank of the Schuylkill, jirotected by powerful earthworks whose remains are still visible. Here Baron Steuben gave the soldiers that rigid Prussian discipline which enabled them to rival the steadi- ness and flexibility of the British infantry ; and here developed and failed the cabal of several generals designing to depose Washington from his command. Meantime the noble Virginian bore witness : " Naked and starving as they are, we cannot enough admire the incomparable patience and fidelity of the soldiery, that they have not been ere this excited by their sufferings to a general mutiny and desertion." " Valley Forge ! How dear to the true worshipper at the shrine of Freedom is the name of Valley Forge ! . . . . And if there is a spot on the face of our broad land whereon Patriotism should delight to pile its highest and most venerated monument, it should be in the bosom of that little vale on the bank of the Schuylkill." (Lossing.) 1 M. beyond Valley Forge is Perkiomen Junction, Avhence the Perki- omen R. R. diverges to the r., crossing the Schuylkill, and runs 23 M. N., through the rural towns of Montgomery County, to the hamlet of Pennshurg. The Reading train passes on to Fhoenixville, whose many houses and smoking chimneys are seen to the 1. This flourishing borough has about 7,000 inhabitants, and is noted for its manufactures of iron, machinery, and cotton. The Phoenix Iron Works are the largest in the 332 Route 47. READING. Kepiiblic, and have immense rolling-mills. At those works the donife of the U. S. Capitol was made. Copper and iron mines are found in this vicinity, and the suiTOunding country is fertile and prolific. The Picker- ing Valley R. R. runs thence S. W. by several small hamlets of Chester County, passing near the Yellow Springs, which was a favorite and' fashionable summer resort many years ago. Bej^ond Phoenixville the main line traverses a tunnel 2,000 ft. long, cut through the solid rock, and crosses the Schuylkill on a high bridge. Station, Pottfitown {Mer- c/mnts' Hotel), a thriving borough of 4,125 inhabitants, favorably situated on a rich river-side plain, and surrounded by arable hills. The houses are mostly on one long broad street, which is adorned with shade-trees ; and in the S. part of the village is the Cottage Seminary. To the W. is the old stone mansion of John Potts, who founded this place before the Revolution. The Colebrookdale R. R. runs thence 14 M. N. to Mt. Pleasant. Tlie Reading train crosses the Manatawny Creek on a bridge 1,071 ft. long, and traverses a fertile and blooming country-side. Stations, Douglas, S. of the bold Manokesy Hill ; Birdshord', whence the Wil- mington k Reading R. R. runs S. E. 64 M. to Wilmington, Del.; and Exeter. Reading {* Mansion House, .$3 a day; Keystone; American; Mish- ler's ; — all on Penn Square) is the capital of Berks County, and is finely sitiiated on a narrow plain between the Schuylkill River and an amphi- theatre of bold hills, the chief of which is Penn's Moimt. The height and salubrity of the location and the picturesque and fruitful environs have caused Reading to be much visited in summer. It has 38,156 in- habitants, with 30 churches, 4 banks, and 3 daily and 8 weekly papers. There are also 14 societies of Masons, 8 of Odd Fellows, 8 of Knights of Pythias, 4 tribes of Red Men, 8 councils of United American Mechanics, 11 circles of the Brotherhood of the Union, and 7 lodges of the Harugari, a German order whose official paper is published here. Reading is the tliird city in Penn. in manufactures, and is one of the chief centres of the iron-trade. Immense furnaces, rolling-mills, brass and steel works, and other similar industries are located here. The Reading R. R. shops employ 2,800 men, to whom is paid $1,200,000 yearly. Much of the iron used here is mined at Penn's Mount. Reading also derives impor- tance from its central position in the rich farming county of Berks, whose population is chiefly of Germanic origin. The city is compactly and neatly built, and its principal streets intersect at the broad plaza called Penn Square, on which are the chief hotels and stores. On N. 6th St., beyond the Post-Office, is the Court House, a large building with a portico sustained by 6 columns of red sandstone. Near tins point is the antique Trinity Church of the German Lutherans, with a spire 210 ft. high. Christ Catliedral (Episcopal) is an imposing Gothic building of red sand- READING. Route 47. 333 stone (on N. 5lh St. ), with a spire 202 ft. high. There is a large public library near the City Hall, a neat building at the corner of S. 5th and Franklin Sts. On N. 3d St is the German resort known as Lauer's Park, and in the N. part of the city is the extensive burying-ground called the Charles Evans Cemetery. The Schuylkill River bounds the city on the W., antl is crossed by 3 highway-bridges. The Grand Opera House and Mishler's Academy of Music are capacious halls where the citizens attend evening amusements. Penn St. leads E. from Penn Square to the sturdy and mediseval-looking structure of the County Prison, near the basins of the city water-works, which are neatly terraced and surrounded with flowers. Beyond the prison the Hill Road ascends Penn's Mount by easy grades, 1| M. from Penn Square, and 1,000 ft. above the river, is White Spot, a favorite resort of the citizens, commanding a beautiful view of Reading and the long valley, with the Blue Mts. in the distance. The White House Hotel is IJ M. S. of the city, and 300 ft. above the river, on a spur of the Neversink Mt. ; and 1 M. N. is the pleasant summer hotel called Andalusia Hall. 1\ M. E. of Reading is a much- visited mineral spring. There are also pleasant drives among the hills of Cumru and Brecknock, to the S. (passing the Wliite Hall, Green Tree, and Sorrel Horse Inns); also to the N. E., among the narrow limestone valleys and under the lofty ridges of Alsace; and to the S. E., on the Morgantown road, toward Welsh Mt. Reading was laid out and founded in 1748 by Thomas and Richard Penn, the proprietaries of the Province. The Jalir-Markts (yearly markets) which were held here in June and October were for many years the chief festivals of the county. The rural population of this district (as well as that of the other Penn. counties S. E. of tlie AUeylianies) is largely composed of the descendants of the early German immigrants from the valleys of the Rhine and the Neckar, and the customs and architecture of those ancient lands are preserved here. They speak the dialect caUed " Peun. Dutch," which is the S. German language, enriched by English words and local idioms. A few of llieui know uotliing of the Englisu l.uiguage, and the traders who travel here find a knowledge of the Dutch nearly ;i3 important as tlie English. The Penn. Dutch has its newspapers and maga- zines, books and schools ; though it is true that these people are very indifferent to literary culture, and while generally wealthy and industrious, are ignorant and unprogressive. They are devoted to their own ways and manners, religions, and hereditary trades, and but rarely intermarry with the Americans who live among tliem. The Penus expressed fears lest their land should become " a German province," but were unable to stay the tide of Teutonic immigration ; and the I'enu. Dutch numbered 100,000 in 1742, and 280,000 in 1763. The great Germanic immigration began about 1708, when thousands of Palatinate citizens came to Pennsylvania. Many of these were sold on their arrival, to pay for their passage across the ocean, and were thence known as "redemptioners." Much opposition was aroused against the swarms of new-comers ; and the Provincial Secretary declared that " tliey come in in crowds, and as bold, indigent strangers from Germany, where many of them have been soldiers ; all these go in the best vacant ti'acts, and seize upon them as places of common spoil." Reading is an important station on the Schuylkill Canal, and the Union Canal here diverges to Middletown, on the Susquehanna River. The AUentown Line (see Route 36) from New York to Harrisburg passes this jioint, intei'secting the Phila. & Reading R. R. ; and the Berl:s County R. R. is built S. E. to Birdsboro'. Stages run to Poyertown, Friedensbnrg, Straustown, and Bernville. The Wil- mington & Reading R. R. (Route 49) runs S. E. 73 M. to Wilmington, Del. ; and the Reading & Columbia R. R. (Route 48) runs S. W. 45 M. to Columbia. 334 Rmde 47. POTTSVILLE. The train runs N. from Reading, and soon crosses the Schuylkill, which is followed for many leagues. The Blue Mt. fills all the foreground with its great ridges; and the borough of Hamburg (1,600 inhabitants) is passed near its foot. Port Clinton is reached after traversing a pictur- esque mt. pass, and here diverges the Little Schuylkill R. R. (for Tama- qua) from the main line for Auburn and Pottsville. The Schuylkill & SiisiinelMnna R. R. runs S. W. from Auburn. Stations. — Auburn; Summit, 7 M. ; White Horse, 12 ; Pine Grove, 18 ; EUwood, 24 ; Rausch Gap, 'M ; Cold Spring, 33 ; Yellow Spring, 35 ; Rattling Run, 38 ; Forge, 46 ; Dauphin, 51 ; Roekville, 54 (Harrisburg 59). The country which is traversed by this line is thinly settled, and con- sists of a long and narrow valley between lofty and continuous mt. chains. 20 min. after leaving Auburn the water-shed is crossed at Summit station, and the line descends into the Swatara Valley. The tall ridge of the Blue Mt. is on the 1., and at Pine Grove the line intersects the Lebanon k Tremont R. R., which runs S. W. through the Swatara Gap to Lebanon (see page 253), and to the N. traverses the defiles of the Second and Sharp Mts., and enters the coal-mining district about Lorberry and Donaldson." Its terminus is at Brookside, beyond Tower City, whence splendid views are enjoyed. The S. & S. train now runs S. W. in the deep trough be- tween the Second and Third Mts., through a solitary wilderness, with trackless ridges on either hand. The Susquehanna River is reached at Dauphin, 8 M. N. of Harrisburg. Beyond Aub\irn the Pottsville train passes on to Schuylkill Haven^ whence a coal-branch runs N. W. 13 M., by Mine Hill Gap to Glen Car- bon and Glen Dower. Passmg to the N. through the Sharp Mt., at Mt. Carbon is seen the large .summer hotel known as the Mansion House. Pottsvillo {Pennsylvania Hall, $2.50 a day; Merchants' Hotel ; Ameri- can) is a city of 14,516 inhabitants, with 6 banks and 19 churches (of which 4 are German and 3 are Welsh). This place is the head-quarters of the Schuylkill coal-district, and is the abiding-place of the chief opera- tors in the mining-stocks. It is also the seat of large and important manufactures, and owes its growth to the development of 50 years. Just to the S. is the gap in Sharp Mt., and the city is picturesquely located upon and about the steep hills near the Schuylkill. The great Schuylkill coal-field extends to the N., E. and W., and is traversed by numerous railroads which converge on the Phila. & Reading R. R. In each of the years 1871 - 73 there were over 5,000,000 tons of coal shipped from this district ; and the aggregate export since 1850 has been 87,700,000 tons. Most of this immense product is moved East by the P. & R. R. R. and the Schuylkill Canal ; and 2,266,893 tons were shipped from Port Richmond (at Phila.) in 1873, of which 1,363,303 tons went to New TAMAQUA. Route 47. 335 England. In 1872 - 73 the P. & R. R. R. carried over 10,000,000 tons of coal to the E. Pottsville is the capital of Schuylkill County, and is pic- turesquely sitiiated in the narrow A-alley between Mine Hill and Sharp Mt. Several railroads diverge hence to the great collieries to the N. and N. E, (Frackville, St. Clair, Port Carbon, etc. ), crossing Broad Mt. and inter- secting the system of tracks which traverse the defiles below Mahanoy Mt. The ML Link cfc Schmjlkill Valley R. R. (3 trains daily) runs N. E. 18 M. to Tamaqua, passing several large collieries and the important borough of Port Carbon, the seat of the Schuylkill Iron Works. This line follows Shai'p Mt. (on the r. ) up the naiTowing valley; and at Tus- carora the Locust Mt. is seen on the 1., and is followed to Tamaqua. At Port Clinton the through train passes on to the rails of the Little Schuylkill R. R., and traverses a rugged and uninhabited region. The Blue Mt. is followed (on the r.) for 6 M., and then the Second Mt. is ap- proached on the 1. Beyond Hecla the Wild Cat Mt. looms on the 1., and the Mauch Chunk Mt. is seen on the r. Tamaqua {Mansion House) is an important borough of 6,000 mhal)itants, with a large coal-trade, and is connected by railroad with Mauch Chunk (see page 307). The tracks of the Reading R. R. in this section of the county intersect and connect with those of the Lehigh Valley R. R. (see page 311). Tlie Catainssa R. R. runs N. W. from Tamaqua, and is followed by the Williamsport train. At E. Mahanoy Junction tlie Mt. Link & S. V. R. R. is met; and the train ascends Locust Mt. on heavy grades (60 ft. to the M.). Views are given of the Quakake Valley, and beyond the tunnel at Summit station (1,400 ft. long) the Catawissa ("clear water") Valley is S3en for many miles. Stages run from Summit to Haaleton. The Cata- wissa Creek rises in the tunnel, and is folloAved by the railroad for 30 M. At Quakake a branch of the Lehigh Valley R. R. is intersected, and the coal-lands given by Stephen Girard to the city of Phila. are traversed. Opposite Girard Manor is Spring Mt., the highest point in E. Penn. Green Mt. on the r. and the N. Mahanoy Mt. on the 1. now attract the atten- tion ; and the city of Mahanoy is 4 M. S. of its station, among the high- lands (see page 311). Fine railroad-engineering works are now seen as^ the line approaches McAuley's Mt. ; and at Ringtoion the Catawissa is crossed on a bridge 1,210 ft. long and 135 ft. high. The irregular heights of Catawissa Mt. are now approached on the 1., and the scenery on the creek at Stranger Hollow is highly esteemed. The Nescopec Mts. now draw near on ther. ; and the line crosses the Long Hollow Bridge, 1,050 ft. long and 125 ft. high (near Shiiman's); Fisher's Bridge, 755 ft. long and 124 ft. high (beautiful views of the valley); Mine Gap Bridge, 600ft. long and 103 ft. high ; and Mainville Bridge, 700 ft. long and 110 ft. high. From this latter bridge are obtained fine views of the quiet hamlet of 33G Route 4S. EPHRATA. Maim-llle, the rich valley, the Nescopec Mts., and the Mainville Water Gap. Catawissa [Susqxiehanna House) is prettily situated at the con- fluence of tlie Catawissa Creek and the Susquehanna River, and is sur- rounded by fine scenery* From the adjacent bluffs are gained beautiful views, one of whi(;h Moran has painted for an autumnal landscape. The village was settled by the Friends at an early date, and has 1,200 inhabi- tants, 4 churches, several iron-works and machine-shops, and a lucrative local trade. At this point the Danville, Hazlcton k Wilkes-Barre R. R. is intersected ; and 2 M. beyond the Lackawanna & Bloomsburg R. R. is reached. The Susquehanna is crossed at Catawissa; and from Rupert station daily stages run to Bloomsburg and Orangeville. Montour's Ridge is seen on the r., and the train passes on to Danville {Montour House), a borough of 8,436 inhabitants, largely engaged in the iron-manu- facture. The Montour Iron Works make great quantities of railroad iron ; and there are 7 furnaces and 5 rolling-mills in the borough. Danville is the capital of Montour Coimty; and on an eminence in the vicinity are the spacious buildings of the Penn. Insane Asylum. S. Danville is a popu- lous village across the Susquehanna (N. Branch), and has the stately Grove mansion. The train now leaves the N. Branch of tlie Susquehanna, crosses Montour's Ridge and approaches the Mahanoy Mt. Beyond the fertile valley of Liberty it reaches Milton, on the Phila. & Erie R. R. and the Susquehanna River. Milton to W^illiamsport, see Route 55. 48. Heading to Columbia. By the Reading & Columbia R. R. in 2^ hrs., crossing the fertile and populous county of Lancaster. Stations. — Reading ; Sinking Springs, 6 M. ; Fritztown, 8 ; Reinholdsville, 12 ; Union, 15 ; Ephrata, 19 ; Millway, 23 ; Litiz, 27 ; Manheim, 32 ; Sellers, 33 ; Landisville, 36 ; Bruckharts, 39 ; Chestnut Hill, 41 ; Kauffman's, 42 ; Co- lumbia, 45. The Columbia train diverges from the Lebanon Valley line near the Heidelberg hills, and passes S. W. across E. Cocalico to Ephrata, near which, on the summit of the highlands, is the summer resort and hotel at the Ephrata Mt. Springs. In the village remains the ancient convent of Ephrata, with its quaint and barn-like buildings. Early in the last century a band of German Pietists came hither, and erected huts on an estate of 250 acres, where they lived in conventual retirement and discipline. Tracing the history of their fraternity from John the Baptist, and devoting themselves to lives of purity and diligence, the brethren endured an austere and arduous life with earnest devotion. In the time of the Prior Ones- imus a sisterhood was added to the order (under the Prioress Sister Marcella), and its operations were extended. The monastic dress was tlie white robe of the Cajjuchin friars, with cowls and sandals ; the diet was solely of vegetables ; and (liu-ing their .iourneys the brethren walked in single file, with eyes cast down, and without speaking. They celebrated the Euoharist at night, washing each other's feet ; attended Divine service 4 times daily ; and covered their faces with cowls when beyond the walls. There were 36 monies in the Zion cloister, and 35 nims LITIZ. Route 49. 337 in the Kedar cloister, and their sweet and peculiar singing resembled " the ^olian harp harmonized." Miicli time was spent in illuminating MSS. ; and a printing- press was set up in the c()n\-e.nt, after which it became a great centre of light in the province. The entire fraternity was deported to Lancaster jail for nonpayment of taxes, but were released, and gave saintly service to the great army hospitals at Ephrata (150 Continental soldiers were buried on Mt. Zion). The Western settlers were all driven in on this place during the Revolution, and were defended by a detachment from the army. The founder of the order is buried luider a stone which is iuscribed : " Here rests a Birth of the love of God, Peaceful, a Solitary, but who afterwards became a Superintendent of the Solitary Community of Christ in and around Ephrata ; born at Oberbach, in the Palatinate, and nameil Conrad Beissel. He fell asleep the sixth of July, a. d. 1768 ; of his spiritual life the 52d, but of his natural one, 77 years and 4 months." The cloisters stand near the banks of the Cocalico River, and are now nearly deserted ; but the people of Ephrata are of the same sect, and are " remarkable for the purity of their lives, the simplicity of their manners, and the fervor of their devotion." The quaint old volume (printed here) called the Chronicon Ephratense gives their early history ; and there are some ancient illuminations in the chapel. Beyond Ephrata the train passes W. (with Black Oak Ridge on the r.) to Litiz, an ancient Moravian village with quaint and cleanly houses and large church-schools. It was founded by Bishop Hehl in 1756, and has been the seat of several coimcils. There is said to be much resemblance between this place and the Moravian village of Kouigsfeldt, in the Bavarian Black Forest. In this vicinity is the summer hotel at the Litiz Springs, situated amid pleasant hill-scenery. The train now crosses the towns of Pemi and Rapho, with the long South Mt. on the r. (distant). Turning S. from the borough of Manheim, it intersects the Penn R. R. at Landisville, crosses the town of W. Hempfield, and reaches Columbia (see Route 59). 49 Reading to Wilmington. By the Wilmington & Reading R. R. in 4-4^ hrs., descending the BrandjTvine Valley and crossing the county of Chester, fares. — Reading to Coatesville, §1 ; to Wilmington, $2. Stations. — Reading ; Birdsboro', 9 M.; White Bear, 14 ; Geigertown, 17 ; Cold Run, 19 ; Joanna, 22 ; Springfield, 23 ; Conestoga, 27 ; Waynesburg Junc- tion, 28 ; Rockville, 30 ; Beaver, 31 : Honey brook, 32 ; Hibernia, 36 ; Brandy- wine, 37 ; Coatesville, 40 ; Modcna, 43 ; Mortonville, 46 ; Embreeville, 48 ; Sager'.s, 54; Pocopson, 56; Chadd's Ford, 58; Smith's Bridge, 62; Centre, 64; Dupont, 66 ; Lancaster, 69 ; Newport Road, 71 ; Wilmington, 73. The train passes out from Reading and follows the Phila. & Reading R. R. by the Neversink Hills and along the placid Schuylkill River. At Birdsboro' it diverges to the S., and crosses the sterile gravel lands of Robeson and Union townships. Beyond Geigertown the fruitful Great Valley is entered, and the line ascends the Welsh Mt. by easy gradients. Descending to the plains of Chester County, the train crosses the Waynes- burg Branch of the Penn. R. R. The W. BraTich of the Brandywine is now reached, and the main line of the Penn. R. R. is intersected at tlie flourishing borough of Coatesville. Tlie train now runs S. E. through a fertile and well-cultivated land, and near the placid Brandywine. From Sager's stages run N. E. 3-4 M. to West Chester, the county-seat; and 15 V 338 Route 50. BRANDYWINE. the State Road runs 6 - 7 M. S. \V. to Kennett Square. Chadd's Ford is 4 M. beyond Sager's. The Battle of Brandyrvine was fought Sept. 11, 1777. Gen. Howe had led his army by sea from New York to attark Phila. ; and, landing at the head of Chesa- peake Bay, advanced to Kennett Square. Washington held the heights al)Out Chadd's Ford with 0,000 Continental trooi)s and a swarm of active but undisci- plined Penn. and Del. militia. The Anglo-German army advanced against the American i)osition at daybreak, and while Knyphausen's Hes.sians menaced and cannonaded the patriot lines. Lord Corawallis led the main body of the army by a rapid, secret, and circuitous march of 17 M., eluded the patrols, and suddenly appeared on the heights over the American riglit rear. Sullivan '.s brigades had hardly formed in line of battle, when the enemy swept upon them in overwhelm- ing numbers, and routed the right and left winjzs. 800 Continentals stood tinii in the centre, under Sullivan, Lafayette, and Stirling, until they were nearly anni- hilated by artillerj'. This was near the Birmingham Quaker meeting-house, now a quaint old building of serpentine stone, in whose yard many officers ai-e buried (an incorrect local tradition points out the grave of the noble Northumbrian. Earl Percy, who left America before the battle). Lafayette was wounded, Sullivan's aids were killed, and the entire right wing was broken up. Greene's Virginians and PeimsylTttuians left Chadd's Ford, and double-quicked 4 M. in 40 n)in. ; formed in line 1 M. from Birmingham church ; received the bntkeu regiments of fugitives ; and repelled the victorious British until dark. Meantime the Hessians had crossed at Chadd's Ford and routed tlje left wing under Wayne, capturing their camps and artillery. Wayne's men took shelter behind Greene's valiant division, and during the night the Americans fell back to Chester, having lost 1,200 men and 11 pieces of artillery. The royal army lost about 600 men, and soon afterwards entered Phila. in triumph. Near Chadd's Ford tlie present roiite crosses the Phila. & Bait. Central R. R. ; and beyond S/nith's Bridge the State of Delaware is entered. 50. New York and Philadelphia to Harrisburg, Pittsburgh, and the West, By the Pennsylvania R. R., which fonns one of the chief routes between the Atlantic coast and the Western States, controlling 1,600 M. of track. This line traverses some of the richest agricultural districts of the State ; passes through several large cities ; and aflbrds beautiful views of the scenery of the Juniata Valley and the main chain of the Allegheny Mts. Numerous branch roads di- verge on either side ; and at Pittsburgh connections are made with the Ohio sys- tem of railroads. Rapid express-trains run W. from N. Y. and Phila., and are furnished with palace and drawing-room cars. The cars are lighted by gas and heated by steam, and run on steel rails over a road-bed of limestone 20 inches deep. The Pullman cars run thiough (without change) fnun Phila. to HaiTis- burg in 4 hrs. ; to Pittsburgh in 13-15 hrs. ; to Cleveland in 20J hrs. ; to Chi- cago in 33 hrs. ; to St. Louis in 44 - 46 hrs. ; to Louisville in 36^ hrs. There is but one change of cars to Omaha, 58 hrs. ; St. Paul, 67^ hrs. ; Memphis, 63^ hrs. ; Mobile, 82 hrs. ; and New Orleans, 83 hrs. Tickets and information may be ob- tained at 77 and 70 Washington St., Boston ; 271, 435, 52G, and 944 Broadway, 8 Battery Place, and 1 Astor House, New York ; 838 and 901 Chestnut St., the corner of Broad and Chestnut Sts., and 116 Market St., Phila. ; the corner of Bal- timore and Calvert Sts., Baltimore ; the corner of 6th St. and of 13th St. and Penn. Ave., Washington ; and at the railroad stations. The head-quarters of the road is at Phila , and the actual terminus is at New York, whence its swift Cinciimati and Pacific express-trains cross New Jersey with but 5 stops, and swing around Phila. to Mantua Junction and W. Phila. The local fares are : Phila. to DoAvnington, $1.13 ; to Lancaster, $2.40 : to Harris- burg, $3,69; to Millerstown, $4.83; to Lewistown, $5.81; to Huntington, $7.10; to Altoona, $8.20 ; to Johnstown, $9.65; to Greensburg, $11.29; to Pittsburgh, $12.40. VILLA NOVA. Route 50. 339 Stations. — N. Y. to W. Phila., 00 M.; W. PhiLi, to Mnntna, 2 M.; Heston- ville, 3 ; Overbrook, 4 ; Merion, 5 ; WvnriP.wood, 6 ; Haverford CoUeije, S ; Brjnt Mawr, 9 : Villa Nova, lOi ; Radnor, 11 ; Wayne, 11 ; Ea,:;le, 15 ; Paoli. 19 ; West Chester Intersection, 21; Glen Loch, 25; Oakland, 2S; Downington, 32; Galla- gherville, 34; Coatesville, 38; Parkesbur;!, 44; Penninu;tonville, 47; Christiana, 48; Gap, 51; Leaman Place, 57; Bird-in-Hand, 61 ; Lancaster , 69; Dillersville, 70; Landisville, 76; Monnt Joy, 80; Elizabcthtown, 87; Branch Intersection, 95; Middletnwn, 96; Hnrrisburg, 105; Rockville, 111; Marysville, 113; Dun- cannon, 120; Baily's, 12s ; Newport, 133; MLlIerstown, 138; Thonipsontown, 143; Perrysville, lo2; MitHin, l'>4; Morrows, 161 ; Lewistnwn, 166; McVeytown, 178; Newton Hamilton, 188; Mount Union, 191; Mapleton, 194; Mill Creek, 198; Huntingdon, 203; Petersburi^, 209; Spruce Creek, 215; Birmingham, 220; Tyrone, 223; Tipton. 226; Bell's Mills, 230; Altoona, 237; Kittaning Point, 242; Galitzin, 249; Cresson, 252; Lilly's. 255; Wilmore, 262; S. Fork. 264; Mineral Point, 269; Conemaugh, 273; Jnlinstown, 276,' Nineveh, 285; New Florence, 289 ; Bolivar, 295 ; Blairsville Intcrsecti(ni, 300 ; Derry. 308 ; Latrobe, 313 ; Greensburg, 323; Penn, 328; Irwin's, 332; Carpenter's, 337; Wall's, 339; Brin- ton's, 342; Hawkins, 345; E. Liberty, 347A ; Millvalc, 349; Lawrenceville, 352; Pittsburgh, 354; Wheeling, 445; Cleveland, 504; Toledo, 615; Detroit. 680; Fort Wayne, 674 ; Chicago. 822; 8t. L(mis, 974 ; Memphis, 1,154; Mobile, 1,473 ; New Orleans, 1,531; St. Paul, 1,231; Duluth, 1,387; Omaha, 1,316; Cheyenne, 1,832 ; Salt Lake City, 2,382 ; Sacramento, 3,088 ; Sau Francisco, 3,223 M. from Philadeli.hia. The through train on this route from New York to the West crosses New Jersey, and follows the r. bank of the Delaware from Trenton to Frankford, where it turns W. and passes around the city of Phila. New York to Phila. by the Penn. R. II., see Route 37. On leaving the W. Phila. station (31st and Market Sts.), the train passes near the S. border of Fairmoimt Park, and at Hestonville gives a view of St. John'.s Asylum. At Overbrook are seen the imposing buildings of the Roman Catholic Tlieological School of St. Charles Borromeo, which was founded in 1833, and educates the clergy of this diocese. The buildings are of great extent, and are situated in pleasant grounds, while their domes and cloisters exemplify the light and cheerful Italian architecture. The line now enters the fair and fruitful county of Chester, which was early settled by the Friends, and is now largely populated by German-Ameri- cans. For a long distance a uniform ridge is seen on the r., bounding the famous Great Valley. Tlie dairy products of this county are of great value, and clusters of farm-buildings are seen on either side, among which the most conspicuous are the spacious and substantial barns. Haverford College pertains to the Friends, and was founded in 1833. It has 5 professors and 50-60 students, with a library of 8-10,000 volumes. At Villa Nova are seen the stone buildings of tlie Villa Nova College, pleasantly situated on a knoll over a rich farming country. It has nearly 100 students, and is conducted by the Augustine monks, whose convent is near the college-halls. Station, Paoli, near the ancient tavern which was distinguished over a century ago by the sign of Gen. Paoli. 2 M. S. W. of this inn is the marble monument which marks the battle-field of P.ioli. On the night of Sept. 21, 1777, Gen. Wa^nic and 1,500 Americans wore encamped here in fancied security, when Gen. Gray, with 2 British regiments, cut off their pickets and attacked the lines. The Continentals, hastily forming 340 Route 50. WEST CHESTER. by tlie light of the camp-fires, Avere struck with resistless force by the hostile columns, leaping forth fi-oni the storm and darkness. A ]ianic-stricken flight ensued, and the assailants, refusing to give quarter, bayoneted 150 men. They then scattered Smaliwood's Marylanders (1,150 men), and remained in possession of the American camps, stores, and aitillery. About 2 M. from Paoli was born (Jan. 1, 1745) Anthony Wayne, one of the bravest and most brilliant of the officers of the army. He was called "Mad Anthony Wayne," and was especially distinguished for the storming of Stony Point (see page 69), and for his victorious campaigns against the Indians of Ohio (1792 - 94). The West Chester R. R. runs S. W. from the intersection, 2 M. be- yond Paoli, to West Chester, the capital of Chester Coimty. The borough contains 5,630 inhabitants, and is beautifully sitiiated on a ridge over the fertile valley. There are 3 fine academies here; and the villas and mansions in tlie vicinity are neat, and occupy embellished grounds. The West Chester & Phila. R. R. runs thence S. E. and E. to Phila. Downington is a pretty rural village near tlie marble-quarries which supplied Girard College. The Chester Valley R. R . runs thence N. E. 22 M. through the garden-like Great Valley to Bridgeport (see page 331); and the Wayneshui'g Branch runs 18 M, N. W. to Waynesburg (fare, 55c. ; time, 50 min.), a farming-centre near the Welsh Mt. The Pittsburgh train passes S. W. to the prosperous borough of Coatesville (3,000 in- habitants), where the W. Branch of tlie Brandywine is crossed on a bridge 900 ft. long and 60 ft. higli. The Wilmington & Reading R. R. is inter- sected near this point (see page 337). The Penn. & Delaivarc R. R. runs 38 M S. W. from Pomeroy, traversing a quiet rural region. At Avondale it crosses the Phila. & Bait. Central R. R. ; at Ijou- denberg, the Wilmington & Western R. R. ; at Newark, the Phila., Wil. & Bait. R. R. ; at Del. R. R. Crossing, the Delaware R. R. ; and in 2| hrs. from Pomeroy the train reaches Delaware City. Parkeshurg is a new and thriving village with iron-works and machine- shops. From Gap station a pleasant road leads off through the pictur- esque hill-country of Chester and Lancaster, whose inhabitants have been likened, in their frugality and simplicity, to the Tyrolese. They are mostly Friends or descendants of Fiiends. This district was called by Theodore Parker the most beautiful country that he had ever seen. From Mi7ie Ridge the railroad overlooks tlie rich plains of Lancaster County, which has been called "the garden of America," and is occupied by coimtless small farms (60-80 acres, or less), whose fine barns attract the attention. This district is famous for its large and powerful draught- horses, and for fine breeds of cattle. The county is also remarkable for its multiform theology, and it is claimed that no spot on the earth, with so small a po]nilation and area, has so many religious sects. In addition to the more familiar churches, there are many rural societies of the Dun- kards, Mennonites, Amish, and other singular German sects, whose vo- taries are generally distinguishable by peculiarities of costume and per- soaal appearance (see page 333). Beyond Gap the train descends to the LANCASTER. Route 50. 341 Pequea Valley, which was settled in 1709 by Swiss Mennonites from Zurich and Berne, whose deputies returned to Europe and brought over large numbers of fellow-sectaries. From Leaman Place a branch railroad runs 4 - 5 M. S. W. to the pleasant borough of Strashurg. The train now crosses Pequea Creek, traverses the town of Lampeter, and reaches Lancaster. Hotels. - The Stevens House is a new and first-class hotel ; the City Hotel ; Michael's ; and several other small houses are near the station. Railroads. — The Penn. R. R., to Phila. in 69 M., to Harrisburg (36 M.) and Pittsbu-rgh (285 M.) ; the Reading & Columbia, to Reading in 42 M. (see Route 48); the Columbia Branch, to Columbia in 12 M. (and Harrisburg in 37 M.)- Stages run from Lancaster to Safe Harbor, Peach Bottom, New Hollow, Gordousville, Millersville, Fairville, Neflfsville, Rawlinsville, and Quarryville. Lancaster, the capital of Lancaster County, is favorably situated in a rich farming country, 1 M. W. of Conestoga Creek. It has 20,233 in- habitants, with 21 churches (1 Moravian, 1 Mennonite), 2 daily papers, and 6 Aveeklies (2 German), and 3 banks. There are extensive manufac- tories of locomotives, rifles, cai-riages, axes, and other wares; and there is a considerable slack-water navigation on the Conestoga, which descends by 9 locks to Safe Harbor, 18 M. S. W. on the Susquehanna River. The city is compactly built (for the most part of brick), and its main streets, King and Queen, intersect each other in a wide central plaza, which is generally crowded on market days. To the E., on E. King St., is the imposing building of the Court House, with a portico supported on Co- rinthian columns. Farther out on E. King St. is the County Prison^ a neat building in Norman architecture. At the W. end of James St. are the halls of Franklin and Marshall College, an institution of the German Reformed Church, with 7 professors, 70 - 80 students, and a library of 13,000 volumes. Franklin College was founded in 1787, and was well endowed by the State ; but languished and was finally closed up. The Reformed Cliurch assumed its control in 1853, and united it with Marshall College. The buildings are neat and substantial, and command pleasant views of the city and the Conestoga Valley. S. Queen St. leads to the Woodward Hill Cemetery, a large and picturesque ground in a bend of the creek; and the old Moravian graveyard is on North St., near Chest- nut. Fidton Hall is near the market-place, and is much used for evening entertainments. Lancaster was laid out in 1728 by order of the Penn proprietors, and was rapidly settled by German Lutherans. In 1742 it was made a borough, and in 1754 it had over 2,000 inhabitants, with manufactories of saddles and guns. The turnpike leading to Phila. is said to be the oldest in the Republic, and was built 1792-94 at a cost of §465,«00 (62 M. long). In 17G4 the Presbj^erian fanatics of Paxton and Donegal attacked (without provocation) the village of the peaceable Conestoga Indians, and killed several of their number. The remainder were guarded in the Lancaster workhouse until 2 weeks later, when 50 Paxton horse- men rode into the town, forced the workhouse doors, and massacred the unarmed 342 Route 50. HARRISBURG. and blameless Indians, — men, women, and children. Large forces then gathered and marched on Phila. , designing to exterminate the Moravian Indians who had taken shelter there ; but the trnnquil Quakers aroused themselves and took anns, and the expedition came to naught. Lancaster was for many years the largest inland city in the U. S. ; and was the capital of the State from 1799 to 1812. Among the natives of Lancaster were Dr. A. L. Atlee ; B, S. Barton, the naturalist ; John W, Forney, the journalist (founder of the Phila. Press, and Sec. of the U. S. Senate, 1861-68) ; Col. George and Gen. John Gibson, Gen. Heniy Miller, Col. Naumann, Gen. John Steele, and Gen. Andrew Porter, of the U. S. Army ; Gen. J. F. Reynolds, who wa.s killed while leading the vanguard at Gettys- burg ; David Ramsay, the historian ; and Lindley Murray (in a neighboring vil- lage^, the grammarian. Bushop Utterbein here founded the sect of the United Brethren, which has 90,000 communicants in the U. S. ; and J. W. Nevin, D. D., the originator of the Merccrsburg system of theology, has resided here for many years. Robert Fulton, the inventor of steam-navigation (see page Ki), one of tlie most ingenious and energetic of men, was bora in this county and educated in Lancaster. 1 M. from the city is WJicatland, the estate where lived for many years James Buchanan, the 15th President of the U. S. He was born in Franklin County in 1791 ; became a successful lawyer at Lancaster; was in Congress from 1821 to 1S31 ; minister to Russia, 1832-34 ; U. S. Senator, 1S34-3.5 ; Secretary of State, 1845-49; minister to England, 1853-56. In 1856 he was elected President by the Democratic party ; and during the last mouths of his administration the Southern States declared themselves free. Buchanan's extreme views of State Rights prevented him from re-enforcing and defending the U. S. forts and arse- nals in the insurgent States ; and he left public life at the outbreak of the Seces- sion War. In 1868 he died at Wheatland. The train runs N. W. from Lanca.ster, and at Dillersville, 1 M. distant, the Columbia Branch diverges to the 1. At Landisville the line is inter- sected by the Reading & Columbia R. R. (Route 48), and bej'ond the wealthy borough of Mount Joy the South Mt. ridge is seen on the r. Elizabethtown is near the gap in the South Mt., and the train crosses the Conewago Creek on a fine bridge 100 ft. high and meets the Columbia Branch near the bridge over the Swatara. Middletown {Middletoitm Hotel ; Railroad House) is an important shipping-point at the confluence of the Swatara and the Susquehanna Rivers, and is on the Union Canal. It has over 3,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of car- works, foundries, and machine-shops. The name is derived from the fact that it was laid out (in 1775) as a midway halting-place between Lancaster and Carlisle. The train now runs N. W. for 9 M., with the broad Susquehanna River on the 1. hand, and enters the city of Harrisburg. Hotels. — * Kirkwood House, $3 a dny, on Market Square ; *Lochiel House, §3, on Market St. ; Bolton's Hotel, on Market Square; City Hotel, and other small houses near the R. R. station. State Capitol House, on 3d St., near the Capitol Park. Reading- Rooms. — State Library, in the Capitol, open 9-12 and 2-4; Y. M. C. A.. College Block, 2d St. Amiisements at the new Opera House, on 3d St., near the Capitol. Horse-Cars. — From the R. R. station up Market St. to 2d St., and N. on Walnut, 3d, Vcrbeke, and 6th Sts., passing the State Capitol and running near the Insane Asvlum. Railroads. — The Penn. R. R. to Lancaster, 69 M. ; to Phila., 106 M. ; to New York, 198 M. ; to Altoona, 131 M. ; to Pittsburgh, 248 M. ; to Erie, 341 M. ; — the Northern Central Railway, to Baltimore, 85 M. ; to Washington, 125 M. ; HARRISBURG. Route 50. 343 to Elmira, 171 M. ; to Rochester, 269 M. ;— the Cumberland Valley R. R., io Hagerstovvn, 74 M. ; — the Lebanon Valley R. R. (Allentown Line), to Reading, 54 M. ; to Allentown, 90 ; to New York, 182. Harrifiburg was founded in 1719 by John Harris, a Yorkshire brewer who had made a fortune by removing stumps from the streets of Philadelpliia. The land was called Paxton, and was owned by the Unami tribe of the Delaware nation. The settlers marched toward the scene of the Mahanoy massacre in 17.')5. but were ambushed and lost several men ; and at a later day the Indians (led by French officers) killed many of the people. The 4th Penn. battalion was raised in this vicinity during the Revolution ; and in 1784 John Harris, Jr., laid out the present city. In 1789 - 90 the Republic was nearly broken up by fierce discussions in Congress,— the Northern and Eastern members demanding that the national capital should be located on the Susquehanna, near Harrisburg, while the members from the S. and W. insisted on the line of the Potomac. The per- suasions of Jefferson finally located the capital on the Pot"mac. In 1785 the town was named Loiiishurci, in honor of the King of France ; while, in honor of the prince-royal, his son, the county received the name of Davphin (which it still retains). Harrisburg became a borough in 1791; the OracJc of Da/nphin newa- paper was started in the same year ; and in 1812 the capital of the State was located here. Washington and Lafayette were received at Harrislmrg with great ceremony; and 13 companies left this vichiity for the War of 1812 (1st and 2d' Penn. Regs). The city is now largely engaged in manufactures, and is favored by its proxim- ity to the great mineral deposits of the State. The chief industries are the car- factories, steel-works, and the rolling-mills and furnaces of the Lochiel Iron Co. Harrisburg, the capital of Pennsylvania, is favorably situated on alluvial hills on the E. bank of the Susquehanna River, 106 M, from Philadelphia, and 248 M. from Pittsburg. It has 24,796 inhabitants, 30 churches, 6 banks, 4 daily and 6 weekly papers. The surrounding scenery is pleasing, and the country is very populous ; and the city derives much importance from its railroad connections with the Sus- quehanna, Juniata, and Cumberland Valleys. The Stato Capitol is a comfortable but antiquated building on a hill N. of the city, and fronting down State St., on the Susquehanna. The main entrance is by a circular portico upheld by 6 Ionic columns of sandstone, 36 ft. high. From this point a lofty rotunda is entered, with the Senate Chamber on the 1., and the House of Representatives on the r., — low and unpretentious biit comfortable chambers. The chair of the Speaker of the House is the same in which John Hancock sat while signing the Declaration of Inde- pencience and also Lafayette's commission in the American army. The State Library is in the second story, and contains 30,000 volumes, in a well-lighted and cheerful hall, whose centre is occupied by a statue of Minerva. Around the galleries are arranged portraits of 29 governors of the colony and State, inchuling Mifflin, Franklin, and Penn (the latter bearing date 1666, and representing Penn in full annor, and with long hair). The portrait of Gov. Geary (over the door) is by Rothermel. In cabinets here are a few notable curiosities, — medals, quaint coins, letters of Franklin and Hamilton, Continental money, ancient royal charters (Charles II, to Penn), Indian deeds of land, a Mexican lance, and the flags of the Hessian garrison of Trenton Opposite the Adjutant- General's office is a room in which are skilfully displayed the 330 flags of 344 Route 50. HARRISBURG. the Penn. regiments in the Secession War (28 only were lost). The summit of the dome is always accessible, and commands an attractive * view of the city and its environs, with the broad Susquehanna, and its passage throiigh the mts. to the N. W. Flanking the Capitol are two buildings in similar architecture, occupied by the State and Land Departments. To the S. is a lofty and graceful marble monument in honor of the Penn. soldiers who fell in the Mexican War. Beyond this is the State Arsenal, with its military armaments and park of artillery. Among the cannon are 2 captured at Cerro Gordo, and 4 which were brought to America by D'Estaing, and Avere presented by Lafayette to Congr^s. The oriflamme is emblazoned on each gun, and near the muzzle is tlie significant legend, Ultima Ratio Regum. Between the Capitol and the river is a rude and unadorned obelisk raised in honor of the soldiers of Dauphin County who died in the Civil War. The Court House is a spacious brick building on Market St., with a high portico and a dome. Just below the long and costly bridges which cross the Susquelianna is the Harris Park, where is seen the trunk of the tree to which John Harris, the pioneer of the city, was bound by hostile Indians. They were about to burn him to death, when a rescuing party arrived and drove them away. Front St. is on the bank of the Susquehanna, and is lined with fine mansions. It is a favorite promenade, and commands a series of pleasant views of the river, with its villages, islands, and bridges. During the advance of the Confederate army, in 1863, Harrisburg was seriously menaced, and the opposite heights were crowned with strong field-works. The villages of Wormleysburg and W. Fairview are seen on the S. shore, and the 2 parallel bridges (railroad and highway) which cross at Foster's Island. 1| M. N. W. of Harrisburg is the State Lunatic Asylum, with a Tuscan portico and spacious wings. The view from the dome is extensive and diversified. On the heights to the N. is the Brant mansion (in Gothic architecture), near wliich is a large convent. 3 M. distant is the ancient Paxton Chnrch, built in 1722, and still used. Market St. is the chief business thorouglifare, and crosses State St. at a wide square, wliich is occupied by market-houses. There are several large churches, and the Opera House is a costly building. The IJarrisbnrg Cemetery is favorably situated on the ridge above the Penn. Canal and the Paxton Creek, and is approached by State St. It aff"ords a fine prospect of the river and city, and of the Kittatinny Mts. on the N. and W. As the train leaves Harrisburg for the W., it passes the Insane Asylum on the r., and runs N. to that picturesque point where the Susquehanna breaks through the Blue Mt. This fine pass has been likened to an epi- sode of the scenery of the Rhine, at Andernach. The train now crosses the river on a bridge 3,670 ft. longj whence pleasant views are afi^orded on y JUNIATA VALLEY. Route 50. 345 either side. This bridge was defended hy block-houses during the Seces- sion War. On the \. is Cove Mt., which forms a senu-ellipse, with both ends resting on the river and enclosing a valley 6 M. wide, called The Cove. A second gap is now approached on tlie N., in which Peter's Mt. is passed, amid pleasant and highly picturesciue scenery. Station, Dun- cannon (at the mouth of Sherman's Creek), whence a road leads 12 M. W. to the Perry Warm Springs. The line soon diverges from the Susque- hanna River, and follows the course of the beautiful Jmiiata, ascending through a wild and picturesque region of nits, and ravines. The narrow and fertile limestone valleys which diverge en either side are occupied by farms and small hamlets; but extensive districts among the rugged mts. are still in the wilderness state, and are frequented for the arduous sports of deer and bear hunting. The accommodations for tourists are but limited, and much of the best scenery is seen from the cars. This region was formerly inhabited by an active tribe of Indians, who subsisted on the game which then abounded here; and the Delawares and Nanticokes held the lower valley for many years. " Gay was the mountjiin-song " Strong find true my arrows are, Of" blight Alfarata, In iny piintL-d q-iiver ; Where sweep the waters of Swift goc3 my light canoe The blue Juniata. Adown the rapid river." 2 M. above Duncannon, the hamlet of Benvenno is seen on the r., on Duncan's Island, a long and level alluvial island at the confluence of the rivers. The aijueduct of the Penn. Canal is on the r. as the train turns to tlie N., witli the Juniata close alongside. On the 1. is Dick's Hill, above which the Limestone RiJge (1.) and Half-Falls Mt. (r.) nearly close the gorge. Duncan's Island was occupied at an early date by the Delawares, who were afterwards defeated here after a battle in which 1,000 men were slain. The Delawares fought heroically ; but the Cayugas were armed with muskets, and therein held a decided adVnntage. In 1740 the Scotch-Irish settled here, but were soon evicted by the Penn proprietors, who also burnt their cabins. Tiie Nanticoke Indians located on these fertile plains after leaving the Valley of Wyoming, and were visited by the austere and feai-less missionaries, Loskiel, the Moravian, and Brainerd, the Puritan. Brainerd called these Indians " pagans and idolaters," and endeavored, by the aid of the Bible, to spoil the incantations and frustrate the (;harms during their great religious festival. But the Nanticoke pontiff said that God had taught him his religion, and he would never turn from it; adding that he would not believe in the Devil, and maintaining that the souls of the dead passed to the South, where the good were kept in a fair city with spiritual walls, while the evil hovered forever in outer darkness. As Buffalo Mt. is approached on the r., the train reaches Newport, a river- village, whence a road leads 5 M, S. W. to Bloomfield, the capital of Perry County, a small and decadent borough in the Mahanoy Valley. The Tuscarora 31 1. is now seen in advance, fdling all the horizon with its long and even-crested ridge. Beyond Millerstow7i a narrow defile is traversed in this ridge, and the line enters the great Tuscarora Valley, which ex- tends for 50 M. between the Shade and Tuscarora Mts. From the slope 15* 346 Route 50. LEWISTOWN. of Law's Ridge pleasant views are now enjoyed of MiJJllntotim, which is soon reached by the train. It is a pleasant hamlet on the 1. bank of the Juniata, and is the capital of Juniata County. 4 M. beyond this point the line enters the romantic pass called the Long Narrows, where the river is comj^ressed into a gorge which is overhung b}'^ bold bluffs and sliaggy hills. Within these contracted limits the railroad, highway, river, and canal make many broad curves between the broken lines and low peaks of the Shade Mt. and the Blue Ridge. These heights are said to be haunted by the ghost of Captain Jack (otherwise called the " Wild Hunter of the Juniata," and the "Black Hunter"), a daring ranger and Indian-fighter of the eax'ly colonial days. Lewistown ( Xational Hotel; Coleman'' s) is seen across the river from the station of the same name (stages run to the hotels). It is a borough of 2,737 inhabitants, situated on high ground on the 1. bank of the Juniata, nearly midway between Jack's Mt. and the Blue Ridge. It is the capital of Milflin County, and the Court House occupies a conspicuous position on the central square. Lewistown was settled by the Buchanans about the year 1755. Fort Granville was built 1 M. above, and was garrisoned by provincial troops, but the French and Indians captured it in 1756, and tortured several of the soldiers. 6 M. N. (near Reedsville) is Logan's Spring, the favorite camping-ground of the great chief, Logan, a firm friend of the Americans, and a brave and accomplished chief. He moved to Ohio in 1771 ; and in 1774 his family was slaughtered by marauding Americans. Thereafter, until his violent death in 1780, he was the scourge of the Western settlements. Logan's famous speech to the American en- voys is preserved in Jefferson's " Notes on Virginia." From Lewistown the picturesque Kishacoquillas Valley is entered, and may be followed to the N. for 13 M. to the Seven Mts. It is enclosed between Jack's Mt. and Stone Mt. (Blue Ridge), and on the E. "is split into 3 deep, picturesque vales by 2 long mts. standing out in the valley like stranded ships turned bottom up." Opposite Logan's Gap it is 4 M. wide, and is "a paradise of beautiful fertility." Fine trouting is found in the upper parts of the valley ; on the Blue Ridge to the S. is an unbroken wilderness which ex- tends for many leagues, and is haunted by bears and deer. The Mifflin & Centre County R. R. runs 13 M. N. (in 50 min. ; fare, 4Ckc.) from Lewistown to the sequestered hamlet of ilf(7roy (450 inliabitants), which isnearthe- silent passes of the Seven Mts. This railroad follows the Kishacoquillas Creek through a deep defile in Jack's Mt. and enters Armagh, wliose fertile limestone valleys are overlooked by knob-like peaks. Tlie Lewistown Division. Stations. — Lewistown Junction ; Lewistown, 1 M. ; Maitland, 5 ; Painter, 8 ; Shindel, 11 ; Wagner, 12 ; McClure, 17 ; Adamsburg, 23 ; Beavertown, 25 ; Benfer, 30 ; Middleburg, 33 ; Meiser's, 36 ; Kreamer, 37 ; Pawling, 30 ; Selinsgi-ove, 43 ; Selinsojrove Junction, 45 ; Sunbury. 50. This railroad (2 trains daily) traverses a thinly settled district between Jack's and Shade Mts. The inhabitants are mostly BEDFORD SPRINGS. Route 50. 347 of German origin, and are engaged in agriculture. Beaver-fozort and Mlddlehurg are the cliief stations on tlie line ; and at Sellnsgrove the train crosses the broad and many-islanded Susquelianna and connects with tlie N. Central R. R. (Route GO). the Penn. R. R. runs S. W. from Lewistown with the Juniata on the r. and the Blue Ridge on the 1. At Newton Hamilton the Great Aughwick Valley opens to the S. ; and at the prosperous borough of Mount Onion, the line passes through a gap in Jack's Mt. A narrow-gauge R. R. runs 12 M. S. from iMt. Union to Orhisonia, in the Germany Valley. The Sideling Hill is soon seen on the 1. ; beyond whicli a view is afforded (1.) of the moutli and lower valley of the beautiful Raystown Juniata (branch river). Huntingdon {Ellsworth House ; Mansion) is finely situated on the 1. bank of the Juniata, and has a large shipping trade. The Hunting- don Warm Springs are 5 M. N., near the foot of the Wari'ior Ridge ; and on the Ridge are the remarkable bowlders known as the Pulpit Fi,ocks. The views from Warrior Ridge are of great breadth and interest. The borough contains over 3,000 inhabitants, and occupies the site of an im- portant village of the Oneidas. It was founded by the Provost of tlie University of Penn. before the Revolution, and was named in honor of the Countess of Huntingdon, who had been a benefactx'ess of the University. The Huntingdon S Broad Top R. R. Stations. — Huntingdon ; McConnelstown, 5 M. ; Pleasant Grove, 7 ; Mai^k- lesburg, 11 ; Coffee Run, 15 ; Rougli and Ready, 11 ; Cove, 20 ; Saxton, 24 ; Rid- dlesburg, 29; Hopewell, 31; Tatesville, 40; Bloody Run, 43; Mt. Dallas, 44; Lutzville, 47 ; Bedford, 52 ; WoU'sburg, 55 ; Napier, 57 ; Suli)hur Springs, 02 ; Londonderry, 66; Preston, 71 ; Bridgeport, 75 (Cumberland, 89). The train crosses tlie Juniata at Huntingdon, and runs S.W. up the arable and productive valley, witli Tussey's Mt. on the r. From Saxton a branch diverges to Coahnont and Broad Top City, on the high plateau of Broad Top Mt. This region abounds in semi-bituminous coal, and has 23 collieries, from which 474,178 tons were sent to marlcet in 1873. The Raystown Juniata is crossed near Sax- ton ; and from Middleburg (between Warrior Ridge and Round Knob) a branch line runs E. to Fairplay. The train passes through the Warrior Ridge, in the ga^) whicli is formed l)y the Raystown Juniata ; then traverses Evitt's Mt. and reaches Bedford {Juniata House), the capital of Bedford County. This borough (1,247 inliabitants) is beautifully situated on a limestone ridge, surrounded by tall nits., and narrow fertile glens, and is favorably known for the purity and coolness of its air! Bedford Springs ( *Bedford Springs Hotel) are 1^ M. from the borough, in a pretty glen under Dunning's Mt. The chief spring is chalybeate, and contains, in each gallon, 5 grains of carbonate of iron, 8 of carbonate of lime, 8ft of sulphate of magnesia, 10 of chloride of sodium, and 15 of sulphate of lime. The effect is cathartic, and affords relief in cases of dyspepsia, incipient consump- tion, diabetes, and cutaneous diseases. In the curative process much credit is also given to the pure mountain air. 40 rods from the chalybeate spring is a strong sulphur-spring; and a line of pleasant walks leads to tlie summit oi Constitution Hill, whence are afforded tine views of Bedford and its encircling mts. These springs were discovered in 1804, and have been a popular resort for over 60 years. The R. R. passes S.W. from Bedford with Will's Mt. on the 1. ; and at Bridge- port connects with the Pittsburg, Washington & Baltimore R. R. Leaving the picturesque environs of Huntingdon, the Pittsburgh train runs N.W. through the pass in Warrior Ridge, and beyond Petersburgh 348 Route 50. BALD EAGLE VALLEY. tlie Juniata is seen diverging to the 1. To the S.W. is Morrison'' s Cove, a rich vfilley which was settled in 17 ;"> by the German Dunkards, a singu- lar religious sect, one of whose doctrines was that of non-resistance. In 1777 tlie Indians entered the Cove and exterminated tlie settlers, who sub- missively bowed to the stroke of death, saying, " Gottes wille sei gethan " (God's will be done). One of their number (named Neff) made resistance, killed two Indians and escaped ; but for this inconsistent action he was tried by the Dunkard Church and excommunicated. The train passes from lofty Petersburg!! iip the valley of the Little Juniata, and penetrates the long ridge of Tussey's Mt. by a costly tunnel. Iron-furnaces and ore- banks are now occasionally seen ; and a productive iron-district is entered. Tyrone {City Hotel) is now reached, and is noted for its great iron-works and forges. It is the chief shipping-point for the products of Clearfield and Centre Counties. A few M, S. E. is the Arch Sjjrinff, one of several curious fountains in the limestone rock, and near productive lead-n»ines. The Tyrone £ Clearfield Division runs 41 M. N. W. from Tyrone through scantily populated valleys and deep ravines, and terniiuates at Clearfield (Allegheny House), the capital of the wide forest-county of Clearfield. It is situated in a region of pine-hills, and has 1,G00 inhabitants, 5 churches, and 2 papers. At 24 M. from Tyrone the train passes Pliillip&bui'g (LojxZ House), a nor.t village of 2,000 iiihabitants, with 5 churches and 2 papers. It is located on the Moshannou River, far up on the AUet^heny Mts., and was founded in 1793 by Henry Phillips of Eng- land. Near this point is the large lumbering-village of Osceola (Osceola House). The Bald Eagle Valley Division. Stations. —Tyrone ; Bald Eagle, 5 ; Hannah, 10 ; Port Matilda, 14 ; Martha, 17 ; Jidian, 21 ; Unionville. 2o ; Snow Siioe Intersection, 2.1 (Snow Shoe) ; Miles- burg, 31 (Bellefonte, 33) ; Curtin, 34 ; Mount Eagle, 37 ; Howard, 40 ; EagleviUe, 44 ; Beech Creek, 46 ; Mill Hall, 51 ; Lock Haven, 55. This line traverses the Bald Eagle Valley, a remarkable hollow be- tween the main chain of the AUeghenies and the ranges wliich are known as the Bald Eagle Eidge and the Muncy Mount. The valley is from 4 to 7 M. wide, and has a productive limestone soil. The scenery is wild and picturesque, and civilization has as yet made but slight inroads into the region. A branch line diverges to the N.*W. at the Snow Shoe Intersec- tion, and runs to Snow Shoe, a prominent village among tlie mts., and the chief place in this rugged district. Bellefonte i*Bush House, 300 guests) is a prosperous borough of 2,655 inhabitants, with the public buildings of Centre County. It is largely engaged in handling and export- ing the products of the valley, and also of the Nittany Valley. Much iron is sent to market from this point; and there are large furnaces in the vicinitJ^ A canal runs hence to the Susquehanna Valley at Lockhaven. Bellefonte is finely situated at the foot of Bald Eagle Mt., and is famed for the purity and salubrity of its air and the beauty of its environs. The romantic district of the Seven Mountains is easily reached from this point ; and other localities, famous for hunting and fishing, are also ac- ALTOONA. Route 50. 349 icessible. The borough of Bellefonte is supplied with water from the large spring which has given it name. Yxom Milesburg tlie railroad descends the Bald Eagle Valley for 24 M., passing several small hamlets, and then, connects with the Phila. & Erie R. R. at Lock Haven. A raih'oad is being constructed from -Tyrone to Lewisburg, about 80 M. N. E,, on the Susquehanna River. It traverses a wild and rugged district among tlie Seven Mts. and the Nittany, Jack's, and Brusli ranges. This line will be crossed at Linden Hall by a railroad from Bellefonte to Mih'oy (and Lewistown). The Pittsburgh train turns S. W. from Tyrone, and ascends the Tucka- hoe Valley, with the Brush Mt. on the 1. and the bold AUeghenies on the r. Iron furnaces and mines are seen on either side, and just across the shaggy ridge of Brush Mt. is a region of lead-mines. Beyond the petty hamlets of Tipton and Fostoria, the train reaches Altoona. Altoona {* Logan House^ at the station, ^3.50 a day; Brant House; St. Charles), " the Mountain City," is situated on a broad plateau at the E, base of the Allegheny Mts., and at the head of the Tuckahoe Valley. In 1840 this site was chosen for the location of the machine-shops of the Pennsylvania R. R., and it was then covered by an ancient forest in whose recesses were 3 log-huts. An agent was sent with written orders to buy the land of the woodsmen, even if he had to give $10,000 for it. The orders were mislaid, and the pioneer's wife found them just in time to prevent her husband from selling the land for $6,000. The authorized sum was paid, and in 1850 the works were commenced. At that time a large pond occupied the site of the present hotels, and 1 train daily (with 3 cars) was sent across the mts. on the old Portage R. R, The city now has 15,000 inhabitants, 3 papers, 3 banks, 16 churches (valued at $450,000), and a convent, and 16 schools with 3,000 pupils. The tire department has 3 steam-engines, and the water is brought from a point 4 M. distant by works which cost $ 300,000. The Mechanics'' Library (near the Logan House) contains 5,000 volumes. Besides the immense R. R. shops, Al- toona has numerous other manufactories, including foundries, car-works, and the rolling-mill of the Altoona Iron Co. Travellers from the E. arriving here at evening frequently remain over night, in order to ascend the AUeghenies by daylight. Hollidayshurg, Morrison's Cove, and Nexvry Branches. Stations. — Altoona; Canan's, 4 M.; HoUidaysburg, 8 (Ncwry, 11) ; Williams- burg Junction, 9 (Williamsburg, 22); Reservoir, 11 ; McKee's, 15; Roaring Spring, 17 (Bloomfield, 22); Erb's, 19; Martinsburg, 22; Henrietta Junction, 24; Henri- etta, 28. HoUidaysburg {American House) is the capital of Blair County, and has (with its close-lying environs) over 4,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches and a popular academy. It is finely situated near the E. base of the AUeghenies, and is in the centre of a region prolific in iron and bitumi- 350 Route 50. CRESSON SPRINGS. nons coal. It is on the great National Road to the "West, and was the E. terminus of the old Portage R. R., which ascended the Alleghenies by ,. long planes and stationary engines. There is fine sporting at the greatii reservoir S. E. of Cliiinney Ridge ; and 1 M. from the borough is thei' Mountain House, a summer hotel 1,200 ft. high. The village of Gaysportr is adjacent to Hollidaysburg, and in the vicinity are large blast-fumacesej ■where the Juniata iron is prepared for market. A branch line rungi S. W. to the hamlet of Neivry ; and another line follows the Frankstownn Juniata to the N. E., up Morrison's Cove, to the picturesque village ofM Williamsburg, beyond the Lock Mt. Still another railroad runs S, E. '. from Hollidaysburg, following the shore of the Reservoir, and traversing Dunning's Mt, at McKee's Gap. Roaring SpHng is a natural curiosity which is much visited in sunmier, and a branch line runs thence to Bloomfield. The train i)asses on to Martinsburg (Continental House), a neat borough of 800 inhabitants, in the lower part of Morrison's Cove ; beyond which is the terminus of the road, at Henrietta^ under Tussey'a Mt. and 6 - 8 M. from Saxton, on the Huntingdon & Broad Top R. R. Beyond Altoona the Pittsburgh train commences the ascent of \h»\* Allegheny Mts. The engineering works on this section exhibit the greatest skill and daring, and are massive and of great strength. The grades are heavy (maximum, 84^ ft. to 1 M. ), and descending trains shut off steam and keep the breaks on for 11 M. The 1. side of the car should be taken, and extensive mt.-^iews are afforded as the train climbs up along the side of the great riilge. Near Kittaning Point is the famous Horse-Shoe Bend, which is so short that the head of tlie train is seen going in an opposite direction from the rear cars, and ascending on tlie farther side of a deep ravine. On the ridges to the S. are seen sections of the old Portage R. R., and the Tuckahoe Valley is overlooked for a great distance. At the summit the train passes through the Allegheny Tunnel, which is 2,200 ft. above the sea and 3,670 ft. long. Station, Galitzin (Washington House), in a coal-mining district. Cresson is 2^ M., beyond the Tunnel, and is famous as a summer resort. It is 3,000 ft.; above the sea, and has accommodations for 2,000 guests. The *Mountairi^ House is situated amid pleasant grounds to the 1. of the track, and ia near the Cresson Springs. There are 7 of these springs, the chief of which is a pleasant and astringent chalybeate water near the remains of; the old Portage R, R. Near this point is a strong alum spring, and ther^ are other well-arranged sources on the hotel-grounds. But the chief attraction at Cresson is the remarkable purity and coolness of the air, which is doubtless due to its great altitude. The thermometer rarely reaches 75° in the hottest summer days, and the guests sleep unde blankets throughout the season. The bracing quality of tlie air is ver^ J OH NSTOW N. Route 50. 35 1 jeneficial to invalids and persons Avho have been weakened by sedentary ife. The rides and rambles lead from the hotels to several points of interest, especially to certain lofty summits which command broad views over the Allegheny ridge and the valleys to the E. There are numerous tottages in the vicinity; and the hotels are much visited by people from the West, whose merchants, passing to the Atlantic cities on business ferrands, leave their families at Cresson until their return. There is a large ivery-stable at the hotel, and the railroad runs special trains over the mountain division to exhibit its scenery to the guests. 6-8 M. N. W. of Cressen is lioretto, where a prosperous Catholic community vas established in 1798 by Father Galitzin (son of Prince Galitzin of Russia). This •emarkable man was some time a Russian army officer, but came to America in 1792, designing to travel. He became a Catholic priest, and expended great sums iH establishing Loretto, whence his missionary charge extended over the whole nt. region. He refused the episcopacy several times, and died in 1840. A mouu- hient has been erected to his memory in front of the Loretto Church. The Catho- lic College of St. Francis is located here, and has 12 instructors and 90 students. The Ebetisburg ct Cresson Brunch li. R. runs W. to Ebensburg in 11 M. (1 hr. ; fare, 40c.). This borough has 1,240 inhabitants, and is the capital of Cambria County. It has 3 Welsh churches, and a large part of the population is of that lationality. whose language is generally spoken here and throughout Cambria I!ounty. Ebensburg is situated on a high ridge of the AUeghenies, and commands oroad and striking views. 2 M. N. W. is the deserted hamlet of Bcalah; and Loretto is G M. E. N. E. > : Beyond Cresson the train passe.s several rude hamlets and traverses a I Iwide and desolate plateau, slowly descending by the side of the Cone- biaugh Creek- Near the station of the same name is the massive Cone- \ maugh Viaduct ; and in 24 M. from Cresson the train reaches Johnstown {Merchant's Hotel), a borough of 6,028 inhabitants, with great iron and steel works and manufactures. The Cambria Iron Works are located here, and employ a large force. The borough is compactly built, at the pontluence of the Conemaugh and Stony Creek, and has a broad central square, near which are 2 handsome churches. Johnstown was settled by Joseph Jahns in 1792, and soon became an imiwrtant station on the line of emigration, being at the head of navigation on the Westei-u tvaters. In 1834 the canals which ran from the E. and W. to the foot of the A.lleghenies were joined by the construction of the Allegheny Portage R. R.. which was 40 M. long, and cost $1,500,000. It crossed the ridge at a point 2,500 ft. above the sea ; the ascent from the E. plains being 1,398 ft. ; and the descent fco the \V. plateau 1,172 ft. The cars were drawn by stationary engines up i)l;ine-5 of 4-6 degrees of inclination, connected by winding levels. At the Staple Bend was a tunnel 870 ft. long ; and the Horse-Shoe Bend Avas crossed by a massive viaduct of 80 ft. span. The canal-boats on the adjacent waters Avere built in sec- tions ; and on reaching the end of the canals, they were separated into 4 trans- verse divisions, and carried across the mts. on cars. The emigrants and freight liemained on board during the transit ; and on reaching Johnstown the sections iof the boat were rejoined, and she passed W. on the canal to the Ohio. ! Beyond Johnstown the line passes Laurel Hill in the gap through jwhich the Conemaugh flows ; crosses the Ligonier Valley;, and traverses 'the gorge in Chestnut Ridge, " the last mt. the traveller, going West, sees ifthis side the Rocky Mts." " Laurel Hill and Chestnut Ridge run parallel 352 Route 50. LATROBE. for 70 M., and enclose the Ligonier Valley, the crest-lines of the 2 mts, being always almost exactly 10 M. apart." Beyond Lockiiort, with its fim canal-aqueduct, the train passes Bolivar and sweeps around the sloj^es of Chestnut Ridge; traverses a great tunnel and cutting; and reaches Blairs- ville Intersection. The Indiana Branch runs N. from Blairsville Int. to the borough of Indiana, capital of Indiana County, in 19 M. (70 min. ; fare, 67c.). Western Penn. Division. Stations. — Blairsville Int.; Blairsville, 3 M. ; Livermore, 8; Kelly's, 12; Saltzburg, 17; Fairbanks, 18; Northwe.st, 22; Roarinj; Run, 24; Apollo, 27; Leatthburg, 32 ; Alle!,'lieiiy Junction, 37 (intersection of Allegheny Valley R.B.); Freeport. 38 ; Butler Junetion, 39 (branch to Butler, 60); Natrona, 43 ; Tarentum, 45 ; tspringdale, 51 ; Haruiers ville, 55 ; Fairview, 57 ; Shaipsburg, 62 ; Allegheny City, 67. Blairsville is a pleasant village, whose chief curiosity is a bridge with an arch of 295 ft. span. Tlie W. Penn. line follows the Conemaugh River to the salt-works at Saltzburg, where the Loyalhanna Creek conies in from the S. E., and the confluent stream is henceforth known as the Kiski- minetas. The train follows the 1. bank of the river through a quiet rural country to its confluence with the Allegheny River, near which the W. Penn, R. R. crosses the Allegheny Valley R. R. and the Allegheny River. From Butler Junction the Butler Extension R. R. runs 21 M. N, W. (1| hrs. ; fare, 63c.) to the thriving borough of Butler, the capital of the county of the same name. It is prettily situated, on higli ground, and is favored with a broad view over the Conequenessing Valley The W. Penn. train runs S. W. on the r. bank of the Allegheny River, and pass:es Natro7ia and Tarentum. On the opposite shore are the tracks of the Allegheny Valley R. R., traversed by long trains of tank-cars; and the line passes rapidly down through the manufacturing suburbs of Pittsburgh and stops at Allegheny City. The main line runs S. W. from Blairsville Intersection, with Chestnut Ridge on tlie 1. Latrobe {Huston House) is pleasantly situated on the Loyalhanna Creek, and is the head-quarters of the order of Benedictine monks in the U. S. (There are nearly 300 American Benedictines, wh<| are devoted to educational labors.) St. Vincent's College is located heTe\ and has 22 teacliers and 227 student.^, Avitli a library of 6,000 volumes (conducted by the Benedictines). Greensburg is the capital of West* nioreland County, and is pleasantly situated on far-viewing lieights. It ii surrounded by a pleasant and fertile country with which a considerable trade is carried on. | In the Presbyterian churchyard is a monument over the grave of Arthur St Clair, grandson of tlie Scottish Earl of Roslyn, and brother-in-law of Gov. Bow doiu of Mass. ; an officer in the early French and Indian wars ; commander of th< N. J. militia in 1776, and afterwards of Fni-t Ticonderoga (see page 113). H( founded Cincinnati, and named it in honor of the patrician military order ol whicl PITTSBUEGH. Route 50. 353 e was an officer. In 1791 he led 1,400 U. S. soldiers against the Indians on tlie liami, but was defeated with a loss of 600 men ; and some yeai-s later, retired to lonely cabin on Chestnut Ridge, where he ended his days in unmerited poverty nd obscurity. The S. W. Penn. R. R. runs 24 M. S. from Greensburg, terminating at ^onnellsville, on the P., W. & B. R. R. (Route 54). The Penn. R. R. ^ain runs N. W. from Greensburg to Penn station, which is 2 M. S. of he battle-ground where Col. Boquet defeated the French and Indians. tt Brinton's the line approaches the Monongahela River, on whose far- her shore occurred Braddock's defeat (July 9, 1755). Gen. Braddock had led 1 ,000 British regulars and 1,000 pro^incials on a long and rduous march from Alexandria, Va., to attack the French works at Fort Du- lueoiie (Pittsburgh). As the advanced guard crossed the Monongahela and ad- vanced unsuspectingly through a region of shallow ravines, it was suddenly en- il uled by several sharp volleys from an unseen foe. The disconcerted vanguard ell back on the centre and communicated a i)anic to the anny. Braddock strove 1)1- :; hours to form his men into line of battle, while the enemy were pouring in a lr;idly fire from the ravines and sheltered positions on every side. Washiugt)n's V ii-inians checked the French by bush-fighting ; but the close platoons ol the •egnlars were mowed down rapidly ; and Braddock, after 5 horses were shot mder him, fell with a mortal wound (^from one of his own men). Sir Peter Hal- iet was killed. Sir John St. Clair was wounded, and the army broke ranks and led, h.iving lost 63 officers and 714 men. Washington (then a colonel of proviu- ' jials) was the senior surviving officer, and led the remnant of the forces back to ' Virginia. Beyond Wilkinsburg the line enters the municipality of Pittsburgh, and passes numerous large suburban villages. Near Torrens' are extensiva stock-yards ; factories and furnaces are passed in continuous lines ; broad ' networks of tracks cluster about the main-line ; the air grows heavy ■ and smoke-laden, and the train enters the Union Railroad Station at Pittsburgh. Hotels. — * Monongahela House, on Smithfield St., S4 a day ; Central, comer Smithlield and 3d Ave., S3 a day ; St. Charles, corner Wood St. and 3d Ave.; St. ■Clair, Penn. St. In the railroad station is the entrance to the * Union Depot Ho- tel (^3.50 a day) ; and near the station are the Rush and St. James Hotels (Euro- ^Reading- Rooms.— Mercantile Library, Penn St., near 6th ; Y. M. C. A., corner Penn and 0th Sts. ; Church Guild rooms. Penn St. Post-Office, corner oi 5th Ave. and Smithfield St. ' ,„..,, ^ . Horse-cars. — From the corner of Penn and 6th Sts. to the Cemetery and Sliarpsburgh, and to Allegheny City, Manchester, and Troy Hill. From 4th Ave., ne.ir Market St., to Oakland and E. Lii>erty ; to Centre Ave. and MuiersviUe : and to Ormsby. From tlie corner of Grant and Liberty Sts. to Birmingham. From 5th Ave. and Smithfield St. to Allegheny City and Pleasant Valley. Inclined planes (6e.) ascend Mt. Washington from Monongahela, aud Mt. Oliver from Bir- mingham. „ , , Amusements. — Music and drama at the Pittsburgh Opera-House and at the Academy of Music ; varieties at the American and Varieties theatres ; lectures, etc., at Mercantile-Library Hall and Masonic Hall. Steamers. — On the Ohio River to Pox-tsmouth, Zanesville, Parkersbur-, Marietta, Wheeling (91 M.), Evnnsville, Nashville, Cincinnati (313 M.), Louisville (482 M.), Memphis, Vicksbur^', and New Orleans. On the Monongahela River, to W 354 Route 50. PITTSBURGH. Morgantown and intermediate ports, tri-weekly. On the Allegheny River (fotj freight) to Oil City. Steamers also run semi-daily to BrownsviUe and Geneva. Pittsburgh, one of the chief manufacturing cities of the United States, s, is situated at the confluence of the Monongahela and Allegheny Rivers, s. The most thickly populated quarter is built on an alluvial delta near the w union of the waters ; and populous suburbs extend along the river shores, s, with abrupt hills rising amphitheatrically on all sides. The municipality:) includes about 125,000 inliabitants, having annexed a large territory ad- 1- Jacent, in 1872. The wholesale and retail trading is mostly done on n and about Smithfield St., 5th Ave., Penn and Liberty Sts. The jiver- r. banks are lined with manufactories and steamboats, and the hills are '« being rapidly occupied by residences. There are many fine view-points about the city; but it is very rarely that a prospect of any magnitude can be gained, owing to the dense pall of smoke which continually overhangs the valley. The multitude of tall chimneys that belch forth heavy clouds of smoke from fires fed by bituminous coal overcasts the city with a murky twilight, such as is frequently seen at London and Birmingham. The picturesque site of Pittsburgh is best seen on a breezy Sunday. The city (together with Allegheny) has 22 banks, 10 daily (3 German) and 11 weekly papers, 32 Masonic societies, 45 lodges of Odd Fellows, 8 convents, and 205 churclies (47 Meth., 45 Pres., 30 Cath., 12 Epis., 11 Luth., and 10 Bapt.; of which 10 are African, 16 German, 4 Welsh, 2 Hebrew, and 1 Bohemian). The * Municipal Hall was built at a cost of $ 750,000. It is at the corner of Smithfield and Virgm Sts., and has a massive central tower and granite front. Closely adjoining is the solid and substantial Post-Office and Custom House building, on the corner of the brilliant and busy 5th Ave. On the hill to the E. is the Catholic Cathedral of St. Paul, a large Re- structure with 2 lofty twin-spires and a dome over the choir. The aisles are double, and the high altar is adorned with a large painting of the Crucifixion. Near the Cathedral is the * Court House, lifted high above the street on a terrace encased in masonry, and displaying a classic portico adorned with columns. St. Peter's Church (Epis. ) is a graceful structure which fronts on Grant St. * Trinity Church (Epis.) is a new and elegant edifice on 6th, near Smithfield St. It is in the English Gothic style, and! contains some costly stained glass. Near this is the 1st Presbyterian Church, with a lofty facade flanked by towers ; and with its quiet pres- ence amid the centre of busy traffic, and its massive yet dingy stone- work, it reminds one of the ancient London city churches. The Mer- cantile Library has a spacious building (costing $250,000) on Penn. St., in wdiich is the library-hall, with 15,000 books and files of the latest papers and magazines. The audience-hall in this building is the largest and finest in the city. The Western University is near the PITTSBURGH. Route 50. 355 Court House, and has 14 instructors and 296 students. The Pittsburejh Female College is a Methodist institution with 347 students. Along the Monongahela front of the city are the landings of the steamers, a large fleet of which are usually moored along the shelving bank. Many tourists will here get their first view of the peculiar vessels which are used on the Western rivers. The point at the confluence of the rivers is occupied by the West Point Boiler Works, and thence the Duquesne Way runs N. E. along the Allegheny River. The Way is lined with great factories, — the Duquesne Engine, Globe Plow, Wayne Iron and Steel, Pittsburgh Plow, and other works. The densely settled S. wards are nearly separated from the rural wards by steep hills, on which are fine residences and public buildings, with the City High School. These rural wards are dotted with villages, and their river-shores are lined with factories. They are traversed by 3 horse- railroads and 3 steam-railroads. Beyond Lawrenceville (the seat of the extensive Allegheny U. S. Arsenal) is the AllegJieny Cemetery, the chief of the numerous burying-grounds about Pittsburgh. The Westsm Penn. Hospital is a large building near Ridge St. (12th Ward) ; the Mercy Hospital has fine houses on Stephenson St. ; the Convent of the Sisters of Mercy is on Webster Avenue (corner of Chatham), and is the oldest house of the order in America. The Ursuline Convent and Or- phanage has spacious buildings E. of the High School. The Allegheny U. S. Arsenal occupies spacious and highly ornamented grounds in the N. E. part of the city, near the Allegheny River, and has large clusters of buildings for the manufacture of military armaments. The South Side Boroughs are S. of the Monongahela, and belong to the city. Those on the river include (from E. to W.) Ormsby, E. Birnring- ham, Birmingham, S. Pittsburgh, Monongahela, W. Pittsburgh, Temper- anceville, and Chartiers. These suburbs are dark, dingy, and full of activity, scores of factories being arranged along the river. S. of this line is a range of lofty and abrupt heights, on which is another tier of villages (St. Clair, Allentown, Mt. Washington, and Union), which are j occupied by residences, and are reached by inclined planes. A short and interesting excursion may be made by crossing the Suspension Bridge, and turning to the r. to the station of the Mt. Washington Inclined Plane. Cars are drawn up every few minutes (6c.) by stationary engines above, the track rising 370 ft. perpendicular in a distance of 640 ft. From tlie balcony of the upper station is afforded (if the smoke will allow) a bird's-eye view of the cities, hills, and rivers, the busy activities of the valley, the converging railroads, and the many bridges. Birming- ham is the seat of the Pittsburgh, Tremont, Flint, and other glass-works, the Monongahela, Ormsby, Birmingham, and other iron-works, rolling- mills, fomidries, nail, bolt, tube, and steel works. On the heights above 356 Route 50. ALLEGHENY CITY. are seen St. Michael's Church, the Passionist Monastery of St. Paul, and the Franciscan Convent, From the foot of the hill (Mt. Oliver), at 12th St., an inclined-plane railway ascends 250 ft. perpendicular in a course of 1,600 ft. From its upper terminus another broad view is gained, and a yet better prospect is that from the platform of the monas- tery church. ■ Allegheny City (population, 55,000) is N, W. of Pittsburgh, and i •! connected with it by 5 briilges over the Allegheny River and by 2 horse-railroads. There are many factories in the river- wards, and on tie ])ills are the pleasant homes of Pittsburgh merchants. A narrow but verdant parkway extends around the centre of the city. On the East Park is a bronze statue of an American artillerist, erected in honor of the Hampton Battery of Allegheny, which distinguished itself in the Civil War. The City Hall, Allegheny Library, and Market are on the square, at the crossing of Ohio and Federal Sts. Passing W. by St. Peter's Church (a new and costly building, with a bas-relief of the Ascension over the door), the stern and frowning walls of the * Western State Penitentiary are seen on the r. This building was erected m 1818-26, and is of gray stone in castellated architecture. There are 460 convicts. The Penitentiary is open for visitors from 2 to 4.30 P.M. daily (except Saturday and Sunday). The Park is adorned with a monument to Baron Humboldt, and has several small ponds. It is traversed on sunken grades by the P., Ft. Wayne & Chicago R. R. Ohio and Ridge Sts. run W., and have some fine residences. The latter passes the Orphan Asylum and the plain buildings of the Western Theolorjical Seminary (Presby- terian ; founded 1825), which has 5 professors, 70 students, and 935 alunmi. The United Pres. Theol. Seminary is also in Allegheny City, and has 3 professors, 36 students, and 426 alumni. On tlie outer crest of the thin .and lofty ridge which runs toward the Allegheny River is a stately * monument which is visible from all parts of the valley. The column (from whose minaret-like upper railing the cities are overlooked) is surmounted by a colossal bronze female figure, below which are statues of a sailor, infantryman, cavalryman, and artillerist. This monument was ''erected to the memory of the 4,000 brave men of Allegheny Coimty who fell in the great struggle to maintain the integrity of our Union." From this summit the Ohio River may be seen for many miles, and to the N. is the Allegheny Observatory. Millvale, Etna, and Sharpsburg are factory-villages on the Allegheny, N. E. of the city, . In the W. is the JJ. S. Marine Hospital and the House of Refuge. In the winter of 1753 George "Washington was sent into the W. by the Virginian authorities, and carefully examined the site of Pittsburgh. On his return he ad- vised that a fort should be built there to checis the advance of the Frencli on tlie Ohio, aud in 1754 this was done. Scarcely was it finished when a peremptory PITTSBURGH. Route 51. 357 summons was sent " Fi'om the Commander-in-Chief of his Most Christian Maj- esty's troops, now on the Beautiful Rivei", to the commander of those of Great Britain." Contrecoeur and 1,000 men soon appeared before the fort and com- pelled its surrender. The French army then built Fort Duquesne, and soon afterward defeated Braddock's army (see page 35.S). In 1758 a Moravian named Post detached many of the Indians from the French interest, and later in the same year Major Lewis advanced against the fort with 800 men, but was defeated under its walls with a loss of 270 killed and many wounded. A few weeks later Gen. Forbes approached with a large force, and the fort was blown up and evacu- ated. It was rebuilt by the English, garrisoned by 200 Virginians, and named Fort Pitt. In 1759 Gen. Stanwix built a large pentagonal fort on tliis site, sur- rounded by a ditch and defended by artillery (costing $ 300,000). It was vainly besieged by swarms of Indians in 1763, and was relieved by Boquet's troops, who only reached it after a severe battle, in which they lost 124 killed and hundreds wounded. In 1764 a town was laid out near the fort, on manor lands of the Penn family, and in 1770 it had 20 log-houses. There are 1 1 blast furnaces in the city, and about 500 large factories. The re- ceipts in 1873 were 631,182 tons of iron ; 115,065,146 bushels of coal ; 34,230,500 bushels of coke ; and 25,035,182 barrels of crude petroleum. There are about 60 oil-refineries here, valued at §8,000,000, and handling immense quantities of petroleum (for which Pittsburgh is the chief market in the world). The coal- trade amounts to over -S 10,000,000 a year. There are 60 glass-factories in the city, employing 5,000 men, and turning out $4-5,000,000 worth of glass every year. The iron-works are of enormous extent, — including 60 foundries, 30 rolling-mills, and 6 steel mills. The American Iron-Works alone employ 2,500 men, and cover 17 acres of ground. There are 8 copper-factories and 5 brass-works. The Fort Pitt Works have made immense numbers of cannon, with mountains of shot and sliell. The value of Pittsburgh's manufactures in 1874 was $ 109,693,205. Pittsburgh to the West. 1. The Pittsburgh, Cincinnati & St. Louis R. R. (" Pan Handle Route ") runs from Pittsburgh to Steubenville in 43 M. ; to Columbus, 193 ; to Xenia, 248; to Cincinnati, 313; to Louisville, 423; to St. Louis, 653.— To Chicago, 507 M. ; fare, 1 14. 2. The Pittsburgh, Fort Wa;y^le & Chicago R, R. runs to Homewood, 35 M. (see Route 52); Canton, 102; Crestline, 189; Fort Wayne, 320; and Chicago, 458 (fare, $ 14). 3. The Cleveland & Pittsburgh R. R. runs N. W. by Rochester and Alliance to Cleveland iu 150 M. 51. Pittsburgh to Titusville and Buffalo. The Penn. Oil Regions. By the Allegheny Valley R. R. and the Buffalo, Corry & Pittsburgh R. R. in 10- 14 hrs. The line ascends the picturesque Allegheny Valley for 130 M., passing the great works of the petroleum wells and tanks. Fares, Pittsburgh to Kitta- ning, $1.55 ; to Brady's Bend, .$2.40 ; to Oil City, $4.60. Stations. — Pittsburgh ; McCandless, 3 M. ; Sharpsburg, 4; Brilliant, 6; Ire- land, 7; Armstrong, 9; Verona, 10; Edgewater, 11; Hulton, 12; Logan's Ferry, 16 ; Parnassus, 17 ; Arnold's, 19 ; Tai-entum, 20 ; Cliartiers, 22 ; Soda Works, 27 ; W. Penn. Junction, 29 ; White Rock, 33 ; Kelly's, 35 ; Rosston, 39 ; Kittaning, 44 ; Cowanshannock, 48 ; Pine Creek, 49 ; Mahoning, 55 ; Red Bank, 64 ; Phillips- burg, 66; Brady's Bend, 68 ; Catfish, 71; Parkers, 82; Foxburg, 85; Emlenton, 89 ; Scrubgrass, 106 ; Foster, 115 ; Franklin, 123 ; Oil City, 128 ; Rouseville, 132 ; Petroleum Centre, 135; Titusville, 146; Centreville, 157; Corry, 174; Buffalo, Cori-y & Pittsburgh R. R. — Corry Junction, 185 ; Clymer, 188 ; Panama, 195; Sher- man, 199; Mayville, 205; Prospect, 211; Brocton,219; Buffalo, 268. 358 Route 51. KITTANING. Tlie train leaves the Union Depot at Pittsbvirgh and runs out through miles of factories and works, dra\vn up in dark lines along the Allegheny River. The Allegheny U. S. Arsenal grounds are crossed, and at Sharps- burg station a bridge leads over the river to Sharpshurg, the seat of great iron-works. The track sweeps around by Brilliant, which is under Brilliant Hill, and follows the river close at hand around a succession of broad bends, with a general direction to the N. E. The scenery is bold and pleasing, the broad river flowing freely between high hills. The river-villages are small and uncomely. At about 30 M . from Pittsburgh the train intersects the W, Penn. R. R. and crosses the Kiskimineta» River, Beyond the busy village of Freeport the line passes the White Rock Eddy and reaches Kittaning {Rnjnolds House ; Wilson), the capi- tal of Armstrong County. This borough lias about 2,000 inhabitants, and is in a prolific coal and limestone region, from whose mines its furnaces are fed. Kittaning holds the site and name of an Indian town which was attacked by Armstrong and 300 men, at dawn on Aug. 8, 1757. The In- dians refused to surrender, and were killed in detail, while the town was set on fire and destroyed. The train runs N. to a long bend near which the Mahoning Creek is crossed at its confluence with the Allegheny. From Red Bank the Eastern Extension R. R. is being built across Jefferson, Cleaiiiekl, and Elk Counties to Driftwood, on the Phila. & Erie R. R. It is now completed to Brookville (Americnn House ; Franklin), the capital of Jefferson County, and to the hamlet of RcynoldsviUe. Brookville is 1,.SOO ft. above the sea, in a vast pine-forest, whose trees are cut and sawed here, and are rafted to the Allegheny River. The train now passes around a bend in the river, which almost makes a circle, and reaches Brady's Bend {Central House), an important town situated on a great curve of the Allegheny River. It was commenced late in 1869, and now has 5,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 papers. ITie Brady's Bend Iron-Works employ about 1,200 men in making rails; and large forces are busied in the trans-shipment of oil. The Modoc Oil District is near Brady's Bend, where its oil is shipped. It is of recent development, and the Karns City R. R. is to cross it. Greece City was founded in Oct., 1872, at the Morrison Well, which yielded 500 barrels a day. It has 1,200 inhabitants, 2 banks, and 5 hotels. Modoc City has 1,000 inhabi- tants, and 13 wells which produce 40,000 barrels a day. Stages run from Brady's Bend and Parker City to Fairview {Adams House), which is on a high hill over- looking the oleaginous "cities " of Karns and Petroha. The train runs on to Parker's Landing {Phillips House ; Wallace), and the derricks of tlie oil-wells are seen from time to time, remote ou the hills or close to tlie track ; sometimes in operation, but oftener de- serted. Crossing tlie Clarion River, Emlentown is passed and the line is followed around great loops of the river. At the Gregory House at Scrubgrass station is a dining-room for passengers on the through trains, Franklin (* ExclwMrje ; National ; U. S. ) is now seen on the W. shore, and is a well-built city of about 5,000 inhabitants, with 2 papers, 2 banks. OIL CITY. Route 51. 359 and 3 oil-refineries. It is the capital of Venango County, and occupies the site of the French Fort Venango, on the ridge at the confluence of French Creek and the Allegheny River. Fort Venango was built here in 1753, as one of the great chain of French mili- tary posts which hemmed in the American colonies. 700 French troops and 7,000 Indian auxiliaries were gathered here just before the Conquest of Canada (1750). After that event it was held by the Americans, bnt was taken in 1763 and the garrison was massacred to a man, — the commandant being slowly roasted to death through several days. Steamers run from Franklin to Pittsburgh, and a branch of the A. & G. W. R. R. ascends the valley of French Creek to Meadville (see page 237). From Franklin the train runs N. E. by the rapid river to Oil City, which is picturesquely situated on the W. shore. Oil City {Duncan House; Petroleum House) is located at the con- fluence of Oil Creek on the Allegheny River. It was foimded in 1860, organized in 1862, destroyed by flood in 1865, destroyed by fire (loss, % 1,000,000) in 1866, and incorporated as a city in 1871. There are 2,276 inhabitants, with 1 daily paper, 2 banks, and 8 religious societies. It is an important railroad centre, and is the head-quarters of the petroleum trade (in which $25,000,000 are invested). The wells in the vicinity ]iro- duce 600 barrels daily, and 2,000,000 barrels are shipped hence yearly. There are iron tanks here for 500,000 barrels, connected with lines of tubing by which the oil is drawn out into the tank-cars and river steam- ers. Within a very small area the tourist may see all the processes con- nected with this traffic, — boring, pumping, refining, barrelling, gauging, and shipment. The air is filled with the strong odor of petroleum, and the lower streets seem to be saturated with the precious fluid. The narrow space along the river is occupied by the railroads and business houses, and above this is a tall bluff" wliich is occupied by residences. The Oil Creek & Alleghenn Paver R. R. runs N. E. from Oil City to Irvineton, on the Phila. & Erie R. R. (50 M.). From the hamlet of Oleopolis a branch R. R. runs 7 M. N. E. to Pitliole City. Tlie U. S. W ell was opened here in the winter of 1864-65, and yielded 7,000 barrels a day. Great multitudes flocked hitherward, and within six months there arose in the wilderness a city of 15,0(10 inhabitants, with 2 theatres and an academy of music, a dailv paper, and 72 hotels and saloons Now but 9 families live in the place ; and the great hotel, which cost $31,000, was sold ui the winter of 1873 - 74 for S 100. The Allegheny River is closely followed by the train through a rugged and thinly populated country ; passmg Rouseville (Rathbun House), in a forest of abandoned derricks; Tionesta ; and Tidioute (tihaw House), with its iron-works. Irvineton, see Route 55. The Buffalo train runs N. from Oil City up the valley of Oil Creek, passing great lines of derricks, tanks, and the rude shanties of the oil men. Occasionally the pumping-engines are seen at work; but in the majority of cases the derricks are abandoned, and stand as monuments over de- parted hopes. Petroleum Centre (Centi-al House) is a village of 1,500 in- habitants; beyond which the train reaches Titusville {* Parshall House, $3 a day; Mansion House, $2), the chief city in the Pennsylvania 3 GO RoiUe 51. TITUSVILLE. oil district. It is agreeably situated in the valley of Oil Creek, -which is here 1 M. wide, and is surrounded by prominent hills. By ascending tho path near Cliurch liun, a point is reached whence the valley may be over- looked. The streets are broad and straight, and are lined with bright aiul spick-and-span wooden houses, each with its bit of garden-land. There are 8,630 inhabitants, with 2 daily papers, 4 banks, and 9 churches. The business street is lined with new brick blocks, and the environs contain many oil-wells and refineries. There are 3 large iron- works, chiefly en- gaged in making engines, tubing, and tanks. The petroleum business had its origin at Titnsville. This oil was formerly prized by the Heneca Indians ou account of its supposed inediciual projierties, and a tract on Oil Creek (X. Y.) was reserved by them at the Jinal sale of their domains. The settlers in this district were accustomed to collect the oil by skim- ming it from the water in shallow vats and trenthes, until the arrival of Col. Drake, in 1859. This gentleman bored the first well (1 M. S. of Titusville), and ou removing the tools a copious flow of gas and oil commenced. At that time Titus- ville had aOO inhabitants ; at jiresent its refineries are only third lo those of Cleveland and Pittsburgh. Many wells were sunk in the viciiiify soon after, and with varying success ; but the product Iruni the whole district was so great that by 1861 petroleum had fallen to 25c. a barrel. The Empire Well yielded 2,500 barrels daily, and the Phillips Well gave 3,940 barrels. In 1863 the production slackened, and the prices rose proi>ortionately. During tliis period vast fortunes were made rapidly, and were aiterwards scattered with almost equal sieed. In the first 12 yeai-s of "the develojiment " there were taken from this district 42,000,000 ban-els of oil, valued at .-ji 168,000,000. This territoi-y is about 400 scpiare miles in extent, and contains 4,000 wells, with new ones going down monthly (in prosperous times). 5,000 steam-engines are employed, and there are now in use 3,000 M. of iron-pipe and 25,000 M. of drilling cable. 4 fiist-dass railroads have been built to carry out this vast production ; and the fleets of the oil-exporters are found on every sea. Tlu; foreign trade has increased rapidly, and the 10,000,000 gallons of the export in 1862 were increased to 55,000,000 gallons in 1871. The Union & Titusville Jt. R. runs 25 M. N. W. from Titusville to Union City, on the Phila. & Erie and the Atlantic & Great Western R. Rs. The Dunkirk, Allegheny Valley £ Pittsburgh R. R. runs from Titusville 91 M. N. to Dunkirk. At first it rims N. E. 20 M. through an unpopulated region; then turns E. on the line of the Phila. & Erie R. R., and passes from Garland to Warren ; and there di- verges to the N. and I'ollows the Conewago River into New York, where it runs through the Chautauque County hills for 42 M. ; latterly passing the brisk village of Fredonia, and reaching Dunkirk (see page 231). The Buffalo train runs N. from Titusville, and after passing several ob- scure villages of Crawford County, crosses the State Road near Spartans- burg, and enters Erie County, advancing to Corry, where the P. & E. R. R. and the A. k G. W. R. R. are intersected. Corry {Dirwner House, comfortable ; aS"^. Nicliolas) is a new city, which derives its origin and importance from the location at the entrance to the *' Oildorado," and from the intersection here of several railroads. The streets are broad and straight, but tlie houses are generally inferior. Tlie site of Corry was covered by a forest until June, 1861, when the Atlantic & Great Western R. R. crossed the Phila. k Erie R. R. here, and a small board-shanty Avas put up at the junction. . Later in the year the Downer Oil Co. (of Boston ) sent out an agent to locate an oil refinery. He chose this ECONOMY. R? 2.9o ; to Cumberland, $ 5.20. Stations. — Pittsburgh ; Solio, 2 ; Laughlin'.s, 3 ; Hazelwood, 4 ; Glenwood, 5 ; Brown's, (j ; Mills', 9 ; Braddock's, 10 ; Port Perry, 11 ; Saltsburg, 12 ; Riverton, 14; MeKeesport, 15; Long Run, 17; Osceola, 20; Coultersville, 22; Guffey's, 24; Moore's, 28; Amieville, 30; W. Newton, 33; Port Royal, 37; Jacob's Creek, 40; Oakdale, 49 ; Laurel Run, 60 ; Sedgwick, 53 ; Broad Ford Junction, 55 (branch to Mt. Pleasant, 65) ; Connellsville, 57 (branch to Uniontown, 71) ; 8and Works, 60 ; Indian Creek, 65 ; Stewarton, 69 : Ohio Pyle, 74 ; Egypt, 79 ; Confluence, 84 ; Ur- sina, 86 ; Fort Hill Siding, 89 ; f'orge Bridge, 94 ; Cassellman, 96 ; Mineral Point Junction, 101 ; Garrett's, 108 ; Yoder's, 109 ; Meyer's Mills, 113 ; Sand Patch, 116 ; Bowman's, 120; Gle.neoe, 126 ; Fairhope, 1.30 ; Bridgeport, 135 ; Cook's Mills, 141 ; Mt. Savage Junction, 146 ; Cumberland, 150 (Washington, 300 ; Baltimore, 340). The train emerges from the Pittsburgli station, and (after passing Grant Hill) run.s E. and S. E. along the Monongahela River, with the busy South Side Boroughs on the opposite shore. Several suburban stations are passed, and beyond Braddock's (opposite the field of battle, see page 353) the train passes tlie tracks at Port Perry Junction, which diverge to the Penn. R. R. McKees2)ort is a borough of 2,523 inhabitants, situated at the confluence of the Monongahela and Yougluogheny Rivers. It is engaged in coal-mining and boat-building, and is the seat of the works of the American Tube Company. The railroad here turns to the S. E. and follows the r. bank of the Youghiogheny for many leagues, with the river on the r. hand. The stations are small, and tlie country is thinly settled. In the advance are seen the long heights of Chestnut Ridge. Connells- ville (Smith's Hotel) is a large village with maniifactories of woollen goods, paper, iron-wares, etc. A bridge crosses the river to the factory village of New Haven. The hill scenery in this vicinity is quite pictu- resque, and there is a famous view from the Cow Rock, on the ridge which towers for 1,300 ft. over the town. '•' Near the Cow Rock, on the broad, flat summit of the mt., stand rows of pulpit rocks, relics of the eroded edge of the soft yellow sandstone of the Coal Conglomerate." The Soutliivestern Penn. R. R. runs N. from Connellsville to Greensburg (see page 352) in 24 M. The Mt. Pleasant Branch runs N. E. (diverging from Broad Ford, 2 M. distant, on the main line) to Mount Pleasant borough, in 10 M. The Fayette County Branch runs S. W. along the base of Laurel Ridge, i)assing Mt. Braddoek and ending at Uniontown (Messmore House), 14 M. distant. This is a compact borough of 2,503 inhabitants, and is situated on the National Road, 4 M. W. of Laurel Ridge. The surrounding country has a fertile limestone soil, and is occupied by many profltable farms. Bituminous coal is found in the vicinity, and 469,450 tons were shipped from this county in 1870. Madison College was founded at Uniontown in 1825, by the Methodists. 9 M. S. E. of Uniontown, on the summit of Laurel Ridge, is a remarkable cavern with large subterranean halls and narrow passages. Stages run from Uniontown over Laurel Ridge to the Fayette Springs (Fayette Springs Hotel), 12 M. S. E. These waters are a pure, strong clialyoeate, and are much visited in summer, although perhaps the chief attraction is found in the beauty of the hiU-scenery in this vicinity, and the purity GREAT MEADOWS. Route 55. 3G5 of the highland air. The Washington Spring and the Chalk Hill Hotel are within easy drive of the Springs House. In this vicinity are the Great Meadows, where Major George Washington, of the Virginia militia, ei'ected Fort NecessUii (May, 1754), whence lie advanced and de- feated JuniDuville's French detachment, 5 M. N. on Laurel Ridge. On July 3 he was besieged here by M. de Villiers with 900 men, and was soon forced to surren- der, being allowed to lead his 400 soldiers back to Virginia. Near this point Gen. Braddock (see page 353) died, on the 15th of July, 1755, and was buried at night in the road, while Washington read the funeral service of the Episcopal Church, by torch liglit. Part of Burgoyne's remains were afterwards carried away by curiosity-seekers ; but the rest are interred in a I'udely marked grave near the National Road (1 M. W. of Fort Necessity). ^ The Cumberland train rims S. E. from Connellsville through the pic- turesque water-gap in Laurel Ridge, and follows the Youghiogheuy through a wild and thinly populated region. Beyond the romantic scenery ahout the Ohio-Pile Falls, and the dark ravine in which the line passes between the Sugar-Loaf and Red Mts., it diverges to the N, E. up the valley of Castleman River. From Mineral Point Junction a branch line runs N. E. to Somerset, a small borough and the capital of the Germanic county of Somerset, well situated on a knoll over the great highland glades which extend between the Laurel Ridge and the Alle- gheny Mts. The surrounding country contains large reserves of coal. The train now rounds on the r. the long ridge of Negro Mt., which i"uns N. from Maryland, and traverses the Glades to the S. E. , ascending long grades and crossing the Allegheny Mts. beyond Summit Mills. Travers- ing in succession the Savage Ridge and the Little Allegheny, the line turns S. in the narrow valley between the latter and Wills Mt. (on the S. E. ). At Bridgeport the Huntington & Broad Top R. R. (see page 347) meets the present route, and the train soon enters the State of Maryland.. 15 M. from Bridgeport the train reaches Cumberland (sec Route 65). bb. Philadelphia to Erie. By the Phila. & Erie R. R. ; a favorite route to Western N. Y. and the oil and lumber regions of Penn. This line is controlled by the Penn. R. R., and its trains run on the Penn. tracks to Harrisburg. There are 3 express-trains daily be- tween Phila. and Lock Haven, and 2 daily between Phila. and Erie (furnished Avith Pullman cars). Fares. — Phila. to Lewisburg, ^5.30 ; to Williamsport, $G ; to Elniira, §7.50; to Renovo, 'S7.84; to Emporium, $8.65 ; to Buffalo, ig.l0.15; to Ridgway, i^ 9 ; to Corry, $ 10.50 ; to Oil City, Jjf 11 30 ; to Erie, § 10.75. Also to Minnequa, $7.45; to Watkins, $8.15; to Roche.ster, 8 9.75; to Niagara Falls, $ 10.75 ; to Toronto, $ 13.75 ; to Chicago, $20 ; to San Francisco, $137.50. Stations. — Phila. ; Coatesville, 39 M. ; Lancaster, Gi) ; Harrisburg, 105 ; Dauphin, 117; Clark's Ferry, 124; Halifax, 130; Millersburg, 136; Liverpool, 139;Mahantango, 143; Georgetown, 146; Trevorton Junction, 151 ; Fisher's Ferry, 156; Selinsgrove, 158; Sunbury, 163; Northumberland, 165; Lewisburg Junction, 172; Catawissa Junction, 175; Milton, 176; Watsontown, 180 ; Dewart, 182; Mont- gomery, 187 ; Muncy, 191 ; Williamsi)ort, 203 ; Newberry. 205 ; Linden, 208 ; Sus- quehanna, 209; Jersey Shore, 215; Pine, 220; Wayne,' 223 ; Lock Haven, 228; Queen's Run, 232 ; Farrandsville, 233 ; Ferney, 238 ; Whetham, 243 ; Ritchie, 246 ; Hyner, 249 ; North Point, 252 ; Renovo, 255 ; Westport, 261 ; Cook's Run, 265 ; Keating, 268 ; Wistar, 270 ; Round Island, 273 ; Grove, 277 ; Sinnemaho- uing, 280 ; Driftwood, 283 ; Sterling, 292 ; Cameron, 296 ; Emporium Jmiction, 301 ;- 366 Route 55. SELINSGROVE. Emporium. 302 ; West Creek, 303 ; Beechwood, 311 ; Ratlibun, 313 : St. Mary's, 323 ; Uaguscahouda, 328 ; tthawiiiut, 331 ; Ridgway, 333, Wihiiarth. 341 ; Wilcfix, 347 ; Sergeant, 352 ; Kane, 356 ; Wetmore, 362 ; Ludlow, 305 ; Roystone. 309 ; Slieffield, 372 ; Tiona, 375 ; Clarendon, 379 ; Stonehani, 380 ; Warren, 385 ; Irvine- ton, 391 ; Youngsville, 393 ; Pittslield, 397 ; Garland, 401 ; Spring Creek, 407 ; Columbus, 412 ; Corry, 414 ; Lovell's, 417 ; Concord, 419 ; Inion, 425 ; Le Eoeuf, 423; Waterford, 432; Jackson's, 438; Langdon's, 442; Belle Valley, 444; Erie, 451. Philadelpliia to Harrisburg, see Route 50. From Harrisburg the Erie train takes the line of the Northern Central R. R. to Sunbury. On leaving Harrisburgh, tlie broad Susquehanna is followed to the N. W. through a bold pass in the Blue Mt. Beyond tlse long bridges of the 2 railroads another deep gap is traversed, and the train approaches the dark ridge of Peter's Mt., which inwalls the fair valley called The Cove. At Dauphin the Schuylkill & Susquehanna R. R. diverges to the N. E. (see page 334). Rounding the rugged chain J at its point on the Susquehanna, on the 1. are seen the mouth of the 1 Juniata River and the plains of Duncan's Island (see page 345). Beyond the well-populated town of Hcdifax^ the line passes through the water- gap of the Susquehanna in Berrie's Mt. and reaches Millersburg, whence tlie Summit Branch R. R. (for coal transportation) diverges to the E., running for 20 M. through narrow valleys to Williamstmmi, which is 3 - 4 M. from Tower City (see page 334). The colliery at Williarastowu sliipped 301,326 tons in 1873, which was the largest annual shipment ever made by any American colliery. There are also large deposits and mines of the Lykens Valley coal at Big Lick and Short Mt. The Erie train now jjasses through the gap in the Mahan tongs Mt., and passes on by Herndon, where a long bridge crosses the river to Port Trevor ton. The Mahanoy & Shamokin R. R. runs N. E. from Hemdon through the deep valleys and mt. -passes of the Mahanoy coal-fields, i)assing the poi)ulous boroughs of Shamokin and Mt. Carmel and scores of collieries. Stations* — Herndon ; Trevorton, 13| M. ; Shamokin, 21 ; Excelsior, 25 ; Mount Carmel, 27 ; Locust Gap, 28^- ; Ashland, 35^ ; Girardville, 38.3. From the latter place railroads pass E. and S. E. to all parts of the Schuylkill coal-tields (Tamaqua, Mahanoy City, Potts- ville, etc.). The line now passes between the W. end of the Line Mt. and the river, and follows the broad and beautiful Susquehanna through the fertile limestone intervales. At Selinsgrove a connection is made with the Lewistown Division of the Penn, R. R., whose track here crosses the river to the W. (see page 346). Selinsgrove is a borough of 1,453 inhab- itants, and is chiefly distinguished as an educational centre, being the seat of the Missionary Institute (a religious college of the Lutheran Church, ■with 6 professors and 140 students) and the Susquehanna Female College (a Lutheran institution with 4 professors and 82 students). The train passes on to Sunbury {Centred House ; City Hotel), the capital of North- umberland County, a borough of 3,131 inhabitants, pleasantly situated on the E. shore of the Susquehanna. WILLIAMSPORT. Route 55. 367 The Danville, Hazleton £ Wilkes-Barre R. R runs N. E. from Sunburj' up the N. Branch of the Susquehanna, jjassiug Danville and Catawissa (see page 336), beyond which it enters the Mainville Water Gap, and runs E. through the Nesco- pcc Mts.. amid striking scenery. Through this wild distinct the train passes on to Hazleton, where it connects with a branch of the Lehigli Valley R. R. (see page 311). Stations. — Sunburj'; Kline's Grove, 5 M. ; Wolvertoii, 6; Kipp's Run, 9 ; Danville, 12 ; Roaring Creek, 17; Catawissa, 21; Mainville, 27; Mifflin Cross Roads, 30 ; Scotch Valley, 34 ; Woliton, 36 ; Rock Glen, 38 ; Gowen, 40 ; Tomhicken, 44 ; Hazleton. The train now passes on to the rails of the Phila. d- Erie R. R., and crosses the N. Branch of the Susquehanna. Northumberland {Central House) is a handsome borough of 1,788 inhabitants, finely situated on the point at the confluence of the N. and W. Branches. At this point are the termini of the Lewistown Division and the Lackawanna & Blooms- Lurg R. R. (Route 57). Passing Montour's Ridge on the r., the train reaches Lexoishurg Junctian, whence the Lewisburg Centre & Spruce Creek Branch runs S. W. 11 M. to Miffl,inburg^ crossing the Susque- hanna, and reaching Lewisburg at 2 M. from the Junction. This is a borough of 3,131 inhabitants, and is the seat of Lewisburg University, a Baptist institution which dates from 1846, and has 14 instnictors, 216 students, and a library of about 5,000 volumes. The Erie train passes on to Milton (Huff's Hotel), a large village Avhere the Catawissa R. R. comes in from the S. E. (see page 336). The train now advances over the allu- vial river-side plains, with the Nittany and White Deer Mts. in the W. The country is thickly settled and fertile, and the line passes several pretty rural hamlets. The Catcnvissa R. R. (see page 336) crosses the river below Milton, and follows the W. shore; and about 9 M. above the Phila. & Erie also crosses to the W. bank, and intersects the former near Montgoimry, at the outlet of the White Deer Valley. The lines run parallel for several miles, and then the Catawissa recrosses the river and reaches Muncy (whence the Muncy Creek R. R. runs N. E. to Hughes- ville). It then follows the 1. bank by the flourisliing borough of 3fontours- ville (Putney House), and, crossing the Loyalsock Creek, enters Williams- port. The Phila. & Erie R. R. sweeps around the broad Muncy Bend under a high ridge, crosses the Susquehanna (W. Branch), and also reaches Williamsport (* Herdic House, in gardens near the station, $3 a day; * Crawford Hmse, in the city; City H)tel, OY>posite the Court House, $2.50), the capital of Lycoming County, and the chief lumber-mart of the State. It is situated on the W. Branch of the Susquehanna, and is surrounded by high hills, the Bald Eagle Mts. occupying the S. border. The streets are wide and straight, and are traversed by horse-cars (on 3d and 4th Sts.); and W. 4th St., toward the spacious Herdic House, is lined with villas. The county buildings are on 3d St., and the prison is a quaint piece of castellated architecture. To the N., at the head of Academy St., is the Dickinson Seminary, an extensive pile of brick build- 368 Route 55. LOCK HAVEN. ings accommodating 200 students of both sexes (founded 1847). N. of the city is Herdic Park, containing 35 acres of land, and equipped with large trout-houses. To the N. W. is the Wildwood Cemetery. The gi-eat Susquehmitia Boom extends from Willianisport for 3 - 4 M. up the river, with massive piers and braces. It cost over $ 1,000,000, and will hold 300,000,000 ft. of lumber. In the spring months this boom is so filled with logs that the river can be crossed anywhere on a solid floor of timber. During the past 10 years the boom has held 8,312,000 logs, equalling 1,643,000,000 ft. of boards, and valued at .$ 100,000,000. The shipments of lumber for the last 4 years amounted to over 900,000,000 ft. The river-front of the ' city is lined with basins and saw-mills, the chief of which are the Dodge Mills, where 200 men and 200 saws, in the 200 days of the lumbering season, make 25,000,000 ft. of boards. The wood is pine and hemlock, and the traffic is regulated by the Lumbermen's Exchange (near the Court House). The suburbs of Duboistown and Rocktoion are on the S., under the Bald Eagle Mts., and are joined to the city by a long and graceful suspension-bridge, which ends near the Catawissa R. B. station (foot of Pine St. ; 1 M. from the Phila. & Erie R. R. station). Willianisport was founded about 1795, and now has 16,030 inhabitants, 24 churches, 3 daily and 2 weekly (German) papers, and 4 banks. It is the terminus of the Catawissa R. R. (199 M. from Phila.), and is 78 M. from Elmira, by the N. Central R. R. The elegant Trinity Church was finished in 1876. Tlie Erie train now runs S. W., crossing the Lycoming Creek, and then tlie W. Branch. Near the entrance to the Nippenose Valley is the station for Jersey Shore (Jersey Shore Hotel), a thriving borough 1| M. N. W. on the 1. bank of the river. 13 M. beyond, the train reaches Lock Haven {''^ Fallon House ; Montour ; Irvine), o. city of over 7,000 inhabitants, cliiefly engaged in the lumber trade. Immense numbers of pine logs are received at the Lock Haven boom every year, and are used in the saw- mills of the city. The Bald Eagle Valley Division of the Penn. R. R. runs 55 M. S. W. to Tyrone (see page 348). The scenery of the Alle- ghenies and of the Bald Eagle Valley attracts summer visitors to Lock Haven; and there are many pleasant drives in the vicinity. 5 M. above Lock Haven the Erie train crosses the W. Branch, and runs N. W. on its 1. bank, through a rugged and uninhabited region, where lofty ridges close in on the river on each side. Benovo (* Renovo Hotel) is a borough of over 2,000 inhabitants, and is the seat of the railroad shops and foundries. There are large deposits of bituminous coal in the vi- cinity, and the mountain- scenery is picturesque. The pleasant aspect of the valley and the fine trouting in the adjacent streams have made Renovo a favorite point for summer visitors. The line now runs S. W., and near Keating leaves the W. Branch, and runs N. W. alonjf the broad Sinneraahoning Creek. The country which WARREN. Route 55. 369 is now traversed for many leagues was a silent wilderness 40 years ago, and still remains so, except for the feeble settlements near the railroad. Beyond the hamlet of Siunemahoning the train reaches Driftwood, a small place situated amid picturesque scenery. The completed portion of the Eastern Extension of the Allegheny Valley R. R. (see page 358) runs from Driftwood 20 M. S. W. to Barr's, traversing a rugged solitude. The Erie train now turns to the N. and reaches Ennjorium {Biddle House), the capital of Cameron County, au important lumbering town in the heart of the mountain-environed wilderness which was formerly called tlie Great Horse-Shoe of the Alleghenies. Valuable salt-springs have been found in this vicinity. The Buffalo, N. Y. & Phila R. R. runs N. from Emporium (see Route 56). Station, St. Mary's {Alpi-ne House; St. 3fary's Hotel), a village of over 1,000 inhabitants, situated amid broad timber lands and near prolific mines of bituminous coal. Considerable iron-ore has also been found in the vicinity. This village is the seat of St. Mary's Priory (a monastery of the Benedictines), and of St. Mary's Convent, the Mother-House of the Benedictine nuns in tlie United States. Station, Ridlate at the confluence of Toradekoin, this 29th of Julj^ near the river Ohio, otherwise the Beautiful River, as a monument of renewal of possession which we have taken of the said river, inasmuch as the preceding Kings of France have enjoyed this possession, and maintained it by their arms and by treaties, especially by those of Ryswick, Utrecht, and Aix La Chapelle." 8-10 M. S. W. of Waterford is Edinboro\ prettily situated near Con- neautee Lake, and the seat of the N. W. State Normal School (250-300 students). It has 800 inhabitants and 4 churches. The train runs N. W. from Waterford over a thinly settled country to Erie. Hotels. — *Reid House, new and elegant ; * Ellsworth House, $3 a day; — both fronting on the City Park. Morton House, and other small hotels. Amuse- ments at the new Opera-House. Reading-Room and library, corner of State and 8th Sts. Horse-Cars on Peach, State, and Sixth Sts., from the union depot to the Park and the harbor. Railroads. — The Lake Shore & M. S. R. R., to Chicago in 451 M., to Buf- falo, 88 ; the Erie & Pittsburgh (Route 52), to Pittsburgh in 148 M. ; the Phila. & Erie, to Phila. in 451 M. Erie is a flourishing lake-city of over 20,000 inhabitants, with 1 daily and 5 weekly papers, 28 churches, 7 banks, 4 boat-clubs, and 6 Masonic societies. It has a large German population, with 5 Harugari lodges and 10 breweries, and is the capital of a Roman (Catholic diocese. The city extends for 3 M. along the shore, and is mostly built on a low bluff over- looking the bay. The chief industries are the sliipment of coal and the manipulation of Lake Superior iron. The railroads have large docks here, and the Erie & Pittsburgh line has 2 docks 1,500 ft. long, — one for shipping coal, and the other (furnished with 12 derricks) for unloading iron ore. There are 25 iron-works and rolling-mills here, besides brass- works, 6 oil-refineries, and 10 planing-mills. Erie is also a port of entry and a station of the naval revenue service ; owning vessels of 24,716 ag-' gi*egate tonnage ; and in 1872, 2,392 vessels cleared from the port. The Erie Extension Canal, passing S. to the Ohio River, has been discon- tinued; but the Penn. Petroleum R. R. is to be built to the Oil Regions. Erie is the head-quarters of the Anchor Line of steamers (14 propellers), and has elevators with a capacity of 350,000 bushels. Its imports in 1871 - 72 were, — of iron-ore, 406,000 tons; timber, 1,600,000 ft. ; lum- ber, 45,000,000 ft.; flour, 408,000 barrels; wheat, 1,708,000 bushels; oats, ERIE. Route 56. 371 1,469,000 bushels; com, 1,176,000 bushels; and barley, 147,000 bushels. Presque Isle Bay lies before the city, and is the best on Lake Erie, being 5 M. long by 1 - 3 M. wide, and 14 - 27 ft. deep. It is the only lake-port which belongs to Penn., and is sheltered by Presque Isle, a narrow penin- sula 7 M. long, pertainijig to the State and the Republic. The Isle fronts the lake with a wall of sand, and is an uninhabited wilderness, where ducks and fish are sought in the ponds and bayous. Fine black bass are caught in the bay ; and Massasaugie Point is a favorite resort for pic- nics. Several of Perry's frigates sank in Misery Bay, and the hull of the St. Lawrence is still seen in calm weather. The distances from Erie by water are, —to Buffalo, 79 M. ; to Toronto, 126; to Cleveland, 100; to Detroit, 188; to Chicago, 827; to Duluth, 933. The Park is about | M. from the bay, and is divided by State St. It is the central point of the city, and is surrounded by fine buildings, chief among which are the great hotels. On the well-kept lawns are lines of umbrageous trees, and the Park is further adorned by a * Soldiers* Monu- ment, consisting of bronze statues of heroic size, representing a soldier and a sailor upholding the flag. This memorial was dedicated late in 1373, and cost $ 10,000. The Court House is near the Park, and is a handsome building in classic architecture. Toward the bay is the mas- sive little Custom House, and at the corner of Ash and Second Sts. are the spacious buildings of the U. S. Marine Hospital. In 1749 JeanCoeur built at Presque Isle (now Erie) an important fort, the most northerly of the chain of posts established by the French in the W. The place was deserted after the Conquest of Canada, until Gen. Wayne built a block-house here in 1794. On his return from the Maiunee campaign the brave old soldier died here (of the gout). In 1813 the U. S. built two strong block-houses near the entrance of the port. The town was laid out in 1795, and was a pretty village in 1812, when Com. Perry began here the construction of the Lake Erie fleet. To this point he brought vessels and naval supplies from the Niagara River, and here he was long blockaded by Barclay's British squadron. There were 1,.500 Penn. militia in garrison, but Perry had no sailors (save 150 Rhode-Islanders) to man his fleet, until Aug., 1813, when he sailed boldly from the harbor, and within 5 weeks met and captured the hostile fleet in the renowned Battle of Lake Erie. 56. Philadelphia to Buffalo. By the Penn. R. R., N. Central, and Philji. & Erie lines to Emporium, where a connection is made with the Buttalo, New York, & Phila. R. R. Pullman palace- cars run through to Buffalo without cliauge. This route (or rather, that portion between Emporium and Buffalo) has been recently completed ; and it is claimed that it affords a great saving of time tn travellers bound from Phila. or Baltimore to Western N. Y. The line traverses (for the most part) a region devoid of cities and of history ; but the rugged scenery of the Alleghenies and the Susquehanna Valley will attract the attention of the tourist. Stations. — Philadelphia ; Downington, 33 M.; Lancaster, 69; Harrisburg, 109 ; Sunbury, 163 ; William sport, 203 ; Lock Haven, 228 ; Renovo, 255 ; Drift- wood, 283; Emporium, 302. Bnfalo, N. Y. & Phila. B. iJ. — Ship])en, 309; Keating Summit, 316 ; Libertv, 319 ; Port Allegheny, 327 ; Turtle Point, 332 ; Snrtwell. 334 ; Larabee's, 336 ; Eldred, 339 ; State Line, 344 ; Portville, 347 ; Weston's, 350 ; Olean, 353 ; Hinsdale, 360 ; Ischua, 366 ; Franklinville, 374 ; 372 Route 57. NORTHUMBERLAND. Machias, 381 ; Yorkshire Centre. 385 ; Arcade, 388 ; Protection, 394 ; IloUand, 397 ; S. Wales, 402 ; E. Aurora, 406 ; Jamison Road, 409 ; Elma, 411 ; Spring Brook, 413 ; Ebenezer, 417 ; Junction, 422 ; Buffalo, 423. Phila. to Harrisburg, see pages 338 - 342 ; Harrisburg to Emporium, see pages 366 - 369. At Emporium the Buffalo, N. Y. & Pliila. R. R. diverges to the N., and crosses the forest-county of McKean, which has but 8,825 inhabitants on 1,120 square M. of area. At Port Allegheny the train reaches the Allegheny River, whose r. bank is followed for 27 M. to Olean (see page 231), where the Erie Railway is intersected. Run- ning N. through tlie hilly N. Y. county of Cattaraugus, the line ascend* the Oil Creek and Ischua Valleys, E. of Ischua station is the Oil Creek Reservation of the Seneca Indians. The rural hamlets which are next traversed throughout many miles of the hill-country were settled early in the present century by men of New England. Beyond the small villages of Cadiz and Franklinville, the train passes along the E. shore of Liim Lake and enters Yorkshire, after which Sardinia, Holland, and Wales are traversed in succession. From Holland stages run S. W. to Springville, a large village near Cattaraugus Creek, with 5 churches and a newspaper. From E. Aiirora stages run S. E. to Wales and Java. The fertile valley of the Cazenove Creek is followed from Protection to Buffalo, except in Elma, where the line makes a detour to the N. Beyond the settlement of W. Seneca the train crosses the Buffalo Creek, and soon enters the city of Buffalo (see page 233). 57. Harrisburg^ to the Valley of Wyoming. By the N. Central and the Lackawanna & Bloomsburg R. Rs., following up the Suscjuehanna Vallev for 127 M. Stations.— HaVrisburg; Millersburg, 27 M.; Northumberland, 56 ; Danville, 68 ; Catav. issa Bridge, 76 ; Rupert, 78 ; Bloomsburg, 80 ; Espy, 82 : Briar Creek, 89 ; Berwick, 93 ; Beach Haven, 95 ; Shickshinny, 104 ; Hunlaek's Creek, 109 ; Nanticoke, 112; Plymouth, 116; Plymouth Junction, 117; Kingston, 119; Wy- oming, 124 ; W. Pittston, 126 ; Pittston, 127 ; Lackawanna, 130 ; Scrauton, 136. Harrisburg to Northumberland, see pages 366, 367. At Northumberland the Lackawanna k Bloomsburg R. R. diverges to the N. E., reaching Scranton in 80 M., aftgr traversing tlie whole length of the Valley of Wyommg. The line ascends the N. bank of the N. Branch of the Susquehanna River, and, beyond the petty hamlets of Cameron and Chulasky, approaches Montour's Ridge (on the 1.), and reaches the large iron-manufacturing borough of Danville (see page 336). Following now the broad curve of the river to the S., Catawissa Bridge is soon reached, beyond which is seen the pretty village of Cataioissa (see page 336). Intersecting the Catawissa R. R. near Rupert, the present route continues on to Bloomsburg (Brow)i's Hotel), an old borough of 3,341 hdmbitants, which has been the capital of Columbia County for 72 years. As the train passes up by Espy, the Catawissa Mts. are seen on VALLEY OF WYOMING. Route 58. 373 the r., with glimpses of the Mainville Water-Gap. Farther to the E., the traveller has occasional views of the Himtington Mt. on the 1., and the dark Nescopec Mt. on the r. Beyond Berwick the line enters the coal- abounding Luzerne County, and at Belle Bend turns N. with the river, traverses the water-gap at Lees Mt., and reaches Shickshinny (Yaple's Hotel), a borough of 1,045 inhabitants, near the Wapwallopen Mt., and in a district which is frequented by trout-fishers. Ascending for 6-8 M. the narrow pass between the Shickshinny Mt. (1.) and the Nanticoke Mt. (r.), the train enters the Valley of Wyoming beyond W. Nanticoke, and soon reaches Grand Tunnel and the mines and breakers of the Susque- hanna Coal Co. The river is followed over the rich alluvial plains called the Shawnee Flats; and on the r., beyond the island-gemmed river, is the tall peak called Penobscot Knob. Avondale is near the great colliery where (a few years since) 102 miners were burnt or suffocated in the depths below by the conflagration of the breaker over the mouth of the shaft. For several miles the line passes a succession of coal-pits and slopes, and the great wooden buildmgs of the breakers. Plymouth is a borough of nearly 3,000 inhabitants, and is near the Delawai-e & Hudson, Wilkes-Barre, and Nottingham Collieries. Station, Kingston (Kingston Hotel), a prosperous village near large collieries, and the seat of the Wyoming Seminary. Horse-cars run thence across the river to Wilkes- Sarre, the metropolis of the Valley (see page 312). Traversing now the verdant intervales, the train passes near the Maltby Colliery, Forty Fort, and the tall obelisk of the Wyoming Monument (see page 314), and, be- yond the pretty village of W. Pittston, crosses the Susquehanna in full view of Campbell's Ledge. Passing through Pittston, the line leaves the Valley of Wyoming, and ascends the narrow and mt. -walled valley of the Lackawanna River. Approaching the coal-planes and breakers which surround Scranton, the train traverses the suburb of Hyde Park, crosses the Lackawanna, and enters the city. Scranton, see page 246. 58. Harrisburg to Carlisle and Martinsburg. The Cum- berland Valley. By the Cumberland Valley R. R., tras'ersing a fruitful and picturesque region wliioh lias gaiued a uew interest from its history during tlie last decade. Trains from Harrisburg to Carlisle in 1 lir. ; to Chanibersburg in 2^ hrs. ; to Martins- burg in 4^ hrs. Stations. — Harrisburg ; Bridgeport, 1 M.; Shiremanstown, 5 ; Mechanics- burg, 8; Dillsburg Junction, 9 (Dillsburg, 17); Kingston, 12; Middlesex, 14; South Mt. Junction, IS (Pine Grove, .3oi) ; Carlisle, 19 ; Gt)od Hope, 23; Alterton, 26 ; Newville, 30 ; Oakville, 34 ; Shippensburg, 41 ; Scotland, 47 ; Mount Alto Junction, 48 (Mount Alto) ; Chanibersburg, 52 ; Marion, 58 ; S. Penn. Junction, 69 (Mercersburg, 73; Richmond, 78); Greencastle, 63 ; State Line, 68; Morgan- town, 70; Hagerstown, 74; Washington, 77; Williamsport, 81 ; Falling Waters, 85 ; Biddington, 88 ; Berkeley, 89 ; Martiusburg, 94. 374 Route 58. CARLISLE. The train leaves the great station of the Penn. R. R. at Harrisburg, and crosses the Susquehanna on a bridge from which are gained pleasant views of the city, the island-strewn river, and the picturesque water-gap to the N. At Bridgeport the N. Central R. R. is crossed, and on the adjacent heights are seen remains of the fortifications which were erected in 1863 to defend Harrisburg against the Rebel invasion. The train soon reaches Mecliauicsburg {^American Hotel; National), a handsome borough of 2,500 inhabitants, with 7 churches, a neat town hall, and busy car-works and paper-mills. It has a large trade with the densely popu- lated farmiug-coxmtry in the vicinity, and a branch railroad runs S. 16 M. to the village of Dillsburg. E. of the borough is the spacious brick building of the Irving Female College, a Methodist institution of con- siderable local fame, and to the W. is the Cumberland Valley Institute, with 75 students. Both these buildings are seen on the 1. as the train passes the compact little borough with its cluster of church -spires. The train now ascends the valley, with the South Mt. on the 1., and the imposing range of the Blue Mt. on the r. Carlisle {Bentz House ; Man- sion House), the capital of Cumberland County, is a pleasant borough of 6,650 inhabitants, and is situated nearly in the centre of the valley. It is compactly and substantially built on wide straight macadamized streets which abound in shade trees; and the Court House fronts on the public square opposite an ancient church. On this square is a neat monument which was erected *'In honor of the soldiers of Cumberland County who fell in defence of the Union, during the great rebellion." The county prison is a neat building of brown-stone, formed by 3 towers connected by a curtain-wall, and in the W. ward is the county fair-groimd, with its floral hall and race-course. On Main St., W. of the public square, are the gi'ounds which surround the plain old buildings of Dickinson College, a venerable institution of the Methodist Episcopal Church, which was founded in 1783, and has nearly 1,200 alumni. It now has 8 instructors and about 100 students, and the largest college library in the State (numbering 26,000 volumes). The name was given in honor of Hon. John Dickinson (the Delaware statesman of the Revolutionary era), who endowed and aided in founding the college. The scientific department, library, and museum are on the opposite side of Main St. The Carlisle Barracks of the U. S. Army formerly consisted of 25 buildings, situated ^ M. from the public square. They Avere built in 1777 by the Hessian prisoners from Trenton, and were the head-quarters of the U. S. army during the Whiskey Rebellion (when Washington's quarters were on Han- over St., near the square). At a later day this post was commanded by Capt. Robert E. Lee, of the U. S. A., who afterwards became com- mander-in-chief of the immense armies of the insurgent Southern States, and conquered the Cumberland Valley. CARLISLE. Route 58. 375 Til is district was settled in 1730 by the Scotch-Irish, on the lands of the Aquanaschioiii Indians. In 1751 Carlisle was founded by the proprietaries, and soon became an imjiortant military post of the W. frontier. For many years it was one of the proude.st and most aristocratic places in the State, and it still re- j tains much of the ancient dignity. July 1, 1863, it was heavily bombarded by rebel artillery and suffered much damage. It was taken by the Southern troops, who then occupied Mechanicsburg and advanced to within 4 M. of Harrisburg, whence they drove in the National outposts to the alarmed capital, and caused 1 the costly bridges over the Susquehanna to be prepared or burning. 1^ M. N. of Carlisle, on the Conedoguinet Creek, is a remarkahle cav- ern which is entered by a symmetrical arch 8 ft. high. A straight pas- sage through the limestone ledges leads tlience (in 270 ft.) to the diver- gence of 3 avenues, of which that to the r. leads to the obscure hall called the Devil's Dining-Room. The Happy Retreat, the Carlisle Springs, Mt. Holly Spring, and other points about the borough are often visited. The South Mt. R. R. runs S. W. from Carlisle (Junction station) to the extensive iron-works at Laurel Forge and Pine Grove, amid the defiles of the South Mt., 17J M. distant (1 train daily, in 2^ hrs.). Mt. Holly Springs (U. S. Hotel) is pleas- antly situated at the base of the mts., and has a newspaper called The Mountain Echo. The new Miramar R. R. will pass this point. The Boiling Spring is 5 M. S. E. of Carlisle, and is the seat of the Carlisle Iron Co., which owns 10,000 acres of mineral land about Mt. Victory. The Carlisle Springs {Springs Hotel, J$2.50 a day) are situated in a pleasant valley at the foot of the Blue Mt., 4 M. N. of the borough (daily stages). The waters are sulphurous, and are beneficial in cases of general debility and weakness. The accommodations are good, and the roads in the vicinity lead through pleasant scenery, while the fishing in the Cone- doguinet and its tributaries affords fair sport. This is a favorite resort for families from Phila., Harrisburg, and Baltimore. The Perry Warm Springs are 14 M. N. of Carlisle, by a road which crosses the Blue Mt. at Sterrett's Gap, affording pleasant views of the Cumberland Valley (stages every afternoon). The waters issue from the base of Quaker Hill, in the deep glen under Mt. Pisgah, and are chalybeate in their properties, containing carbonate of iron and an excess of carbonic- acid gas. The thermal waters maintain a temperature of 70", and are much used for bathing, as thus applied being beneficial in cases of cu- taneous diseases (taken internally they are aperient and diuretic). The hotel is very low in its prices, and is situated amid pleasant hill-scenery near Sherman's Creek. The Martinsburg train passes S. W. from Carlisle, with fine mt. views on either hand, beyond the rich and arable valley. On the r. front is the bold peak of the Blue Mt. , which bounds Doubling Gap on the S. Neio- ville (Big Spring Hotel; Logan House) has nearly 2,000 inhabitants and 6 churches, and is the shipping-point for a wide farming district. Stages run thence to the Doubling Gap Springs (sulphur- water), near the noble scenery of the Doubling Gap, a great cul-de-sac which is formed by a loop in the Blue Mt. 6 M. long. The train now runs S. W. to Shippensburg 376 Route 58. CHAMBERSBURG. {Sherman House), an ancient borough of nearly 3,000 inhabitants, with 7 churches. It is a grain market and shipping-point for the populous rural districts in the vicinity, and has a large water-power on the Middle Spring. The Cumberland Valley Normal School is ^ M. N., on a commanding hill (seen from the railroad, on the r. hand); and at Middle Spring are pro- ductive papyrus-mills. Roads run thence 12 - 15 M. N. W. to the Am- berson and Path Valleys, between the Kittatinny and Tuscarora Mts. At Scotland the train crosses the Conococheagne Creek, which is fol- lowed to Chambersburg {Mansion House ; Montgomery ; Washington), the capital of Franklin County. It is a borough of 7,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches and manufactories of cotton and Avoolleu goods, paper, and iron. It is favorably situated at the confluence of the Falling Spring and the Conecocheague Creek, in one of tlie richest districts of the Cum- berland Valley, and is surrounded by a populous farming-country. Mt. Parnell lies to the W., and commands a beautiful valley view. Stages run daily to Gettysburg, ascending the defiles between Mt. Alto, Rooky Mt., and Chestnut Ridge, and crossing the cold highlands of Green Ridge. Tliey depart early in the morning, and reach Gettysburg in 5 hrs. (fare, $ 2). Stages run every afternoon 22 M. W. across the Cove Mt. to McConnelslmrg, the capital of the mountain county of Fulton. There are tri-weekly stages to Waynesboro' (Waynesboro' Hotel ; Washington), 15 M. S. E., situated on South Mt., over the Antietam Creek. The Mount Alto Branch trains leave Chanibersburg twice daily, and run in 1 lir. S. E. to the Mount Alto Iron-Works (Slianks' Hotel), situated in the Valley of a Thousand Springs, under the dark ridges of Mount Alto. The Southern Penn. Branch trains leave Chambersburg twice daily, diverging from the C. V. R. R. below Marion. Stations. — Chambers- burg; Marion, 6 M. ; Mercersburg, 21; Loudon, 23; Richmond, 26. Mercersburg ( Old Mansion House) is a small village Avhich is reached by a secondary branch railroad, and is 2 - 3 M. from the base of the North Mt. of the Tuscarora range. It is famous as the place whence emanated the " Mercersburg System of Theology," which was originated and de- fended by Dr. Nevin (President of Marshall College), in the Mercersburg Reviein. Marshall College was removed to Lancaster in 1853; and in 1865 the German Reformed Church founded the Mercersburg College, whose halls are S. of the village, near St. John's Lutheran Church (6 pro- fessors and 112 students). To the E. are the buildings of the Theological Seminary of the German Reformed Church. The S. Penn. R. R. runs N. through Cove Gap into the long town of Metal, wliich lies in the Path Valley, between the Kittatinny and Tuscarora Mts. In a desolate valley of Cove Gap was born James Buchanan, 15th President of tlie U. S. The stages to McConnelsburg leave the station of Loudon, crossing the Cove Mt. in 5 - 7 M. Chambersburg was founded by Col. Ben. Chambers in 1730, and was laid out as a town in 1760. It was much annoyed by hostile Indians in 1755-56, but was held fearlessly by the Scotch-Irish settlers of the valley. This brave and patriotic HAGERSTOWN. Route 59. 377 race has long since been crowded out of the region by the Pennsylvania Dutch, a people to whom wealth and comfort are the paramount objects of attraction and desire. In 1863 Ohauibersburg was captured by Soutliern caA'alry, and was doomed to the torch. Fires were set in various parts of the borough, and proj)- erty to the vahie of $2,000,000 was destroyed. This severe measure was in retali- ation for the (alleged) similar acts of the national armies in the insurgent States. The borough was speedily rebuilt in a more compact and city-like form than it liore before the conflagration. The Martinsburg train runs S. W. from Chambersburg by the Moravian hamlet of Marion (Union Hotel) and the Dunkard village near Kauf- niann's station, and reaches Greencastle {Hays' House ; Adams), whence daily stages run 9 M. S. E. to Waynesboro' and 11 M. N. W. to Mercers])urg. Greencastle has 1,650 inhabitants, and is built around a public square at the intersection of Carlisle and Baltimore Sts. It is the centre of a rich and productive farming country. 5 M. S. the train passes Mason & Dixon, and enters the State of Maryland. 6 M. beyond the State line the train reaches Hagerstown ( Washington House), the capital of Washington County, a town of 5,779 inhabitants, where the present route is intersected by the Western Md. R. R. During the Secession War several well-fought actions occurred about this town. In July, 1863, 6 regiments of U. S. cavalry attacked the rebel garrison here, but were repulsed with severe loss, after a combat in the streets. 5 days later the town was carried by an attack of national infantry. The train now runs 3- W. to Williamsport, where the Southern army, retreating after its defeat at Gettysburg (see page 380), turned at bay and checked the pursuit of the victors. At Falling Waters (near this point) the 5th Michigan Cavalry charged over a line of works and captured 1,200 men, 3 battle-flags, and 2 cannon. The train crosses the Potomac on a long bridge, and runs down through Berkeley County (W. Va. ), to its junc- tion with the Bait. & Ohio R. R. at Martinsburg (see Route 65). 59. Philadelphia to Gettysburg. By the Penn. R. R. to Lancaster, and thence by a brancli line to York. The Northern Central R. R. is followed to Hanover Junction, whence short local rail- roads lead W. to Gettysburg. A new route is now open from York. N. Y. to Harrisburg by Route 36, and thence to Gettysburg by the N. Central R. R., etc. Washington to Gettysburg by the Bait. & Potomac and N. Central R. Rs., etc. i^ares. — Phila. to Gettysburg, §4.52; Washington to Gettysburg, $4 : New York to Gettysburg, $7.51 ; Pittsburgh to Gettysburg, $10.15. Stations. — Philadelphia ; Coatesville, 39 M. ; Lancaster, 69 ; Rohrerstown, 72 ; Mountville, 76; Columbia, 81 ; Wriglitsville, 82 ; Ewing, 84; Carver's Lane, 86; Hershey's, 88; Campbell's, 90; Turnpilce, 92; York, 95; Glatfelter's, 103 ; Han- over Junction, 106 ; Strickhauser's, 108 ; Cold Spring, 109 ; Jefferson, 110 ; Porter's, 114 ; Smith's, 116 ; Hanover, 119; Valley, 123 ; Oxford, 125 ; Gulden's, 131 ; Granite, 132 ; Gettysburg, 136. Philadelphia to Lancaster, see Route 50. From Lancaster the train runs W. across the fertile and densely pop- ulated plains of Hempfield, and in 35 min. reaches Columbia {Con- tinental Hotel), a wealthy borough of 6,461 inhabitants, with 12 churches 378 Roide 59. YORK. and large iron-works. It is the chief depot for the lumber of the Susque-i hanna region, and is built on the high, sloping bank of the river, which! is over 1 M. wide, and is studded with small islands. Beautiful viewa are enjoyed from the hills in the vicinity, including the rich limestone plains of Lancaster County and the picturesque river. Crossing the bridge (1;^ M. long), the train reaches Wrifjhtsville, which was one of the chief points urged for the location of the national capital when the Republic was founded. To this point advanced the splendid infantry of Early's rebel division, in June, 1863. A strong force of Penn. militia wer garrisoned at the fortifications about the bridge-head, but the hostile artillery drove them from the works ; and in the retreat they burnt the bridge, thus preventing the farther advance of the invaders. 11 M. be- yond Wrights ville tlie train reaches York {Natianal Hotel; York House), a borough of over 11,000 inhabitants, with 18 cliurches and 3 banks. It is well and compactly built, and has many church-spires; while the Court House is a fine granite building in classic architecture. There are several large manufactories, but the borough is chiefly noted as the market-town for a wide extent of populous German farm-hamlets. It is situated on Codorus Creek, and the chief streets (Main and George) intersect each other at the Central Square. The Codorus Valley was settled in 1733 by Lutherans from Wurtemberg, and York was founded in 1740; after which (in 1777-78) the Continental Congress lield its sesaons here for 9 months. During the rebel invasion of Penn. (May, 1863), this borough was dis- honored by the oflBcious timidity of its magistrates, who rode over 7 M. to the camp of the Confederates, to whom they surrendered the place without summons. Early soon occupied York (the largest Northern town ever taken by the insurgents) with 10,000 men, and levied a contribu- tion of $ 100,000 on the citizens. Tlie railroad works and bridges in the vicinity were destroyed ; but private property was carefully guarded, and remained intact. The traveller passes S. W. from York up the Codorus Valley on the N. Central R. R., and at Hanover Junction takes the Hanover Branch R. R. Hanover is a borough of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches, 3 papers, and 2 banks. While marching through this place, on June 28, 1863, Kilpatrick's division of U. S. cavalry was suddenly and furiously attacked by a large force of Southern horsemen, vmder Gen. Stuart. A battle of 4 hours' duration ensued, and was only terminated by the arrival of a fresh Federal brigade, under Gen. Custer. The York Sulphur Springs ( York Sprimjs Hotel) are reached by stage from Oxford station, beyond Hanover, in 9 M. (also by carriage from Gettysburg in 12-14 M.). They contain sulphates of lime and magnesia and muriate of soda, and there is a chalybeate spring in the vicinity. These Uiineral waters were discovered in 1790, and were lor many years GETTYSBURG. Route 59. 379 a favorite resort for Baltimore families. They are now less visited than formerly. Gettysburg (Eagle Iloiel ; Keystone House) is the terminus of the railroad, and is a quiet borough of about 3,300 inhabitants, with 8 churches, 2 banks, and 3 newspapers. It is situated on a fertile plain amid a populous farming country, and is surrounded by low ridges. Penn- sylvania College (founded in 1832) is located here, and has imposing build- ings in classic architecture. There are 8 pi'ofessors and 133 students, and the library contains 17,450 volumes. The Lutheran Theological Seminary has 3 professors and 43 students (400 alumni), with a library of 12,000 volumes. The view from its cupola (courteously open to visitors) over- looks the borough and its vicinity for many leagues, with Bear Mt. in the N., and the bold and diversified Green Ridge in the W, The Katalysine Spring {* Springs Hotel; 250 guests; $3 a day; $15-20 a week) is reached by carriage in li M. from the borough. The watei's are cold, colorless, and tasteless, and are classed with those of Vichy and Pyrmont They are alkaline in character, each gallon con- taining 7 grains of sulphate of magnesia, 5 of carbonate of lime, 2^ of sulphate of soda, and 2 of silicic acid, and are said to be efficacious in cases of gout, rheumatism, dyspepsia, diabetes, and in dissolving calculi and chalkstone concretions. There are many pleasant drives in the vicinity of Gettysburg, amid picturesque rural scenery, and through scenes of the deepest historic interest. The Seminary Ridge is W. of the town; and the Chambers- burg road leads thence, by Lee's Head-quarters (back of the Seminary), to Herr's Tavern and the vicinity of the Katalysine Spring. The Millers- town road leads to Willoughby Run and Bream's Tavern. Round Top is reached by the Emmittsburg or Taneyto^vn road. Visitors who wish to make a close study of the battle-field should buy Batchelder's " Gettys- burg : What to see, and how to see it " (with large topographical map). The * Soldiers' National Cemetery is the most interesting point in this vicinity. Just after the battle an association was formed by the governors of the Northern States, under whose auspices the remains of the patriot dead were removed from the groves and heights, valleys and fields, where they had fallen, and were buried on the lofty ridge of Ceme- tery Hill. The Confederate dead mostly lie on the wide field, except such as have been removed to the Hollywood Cemetery, in Richmond. Nearly 3,600 National soldiers are buried here in semicircular lines whose centre is occupied by the monument. Tlie dead of each State are ranged in sections, separated by radiating pathways, and continuous lines of granite blocks are placed at the heads of the graves, and marked with the names and regiments of the fallen heroes. There are 18 States repre- sented, from Maine and Delaware to Minnesota; of which New York has 380 Route 59. BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. 867, and Pennsylvania has 534. Near the entrance of the cemetery is a semi-colossal bronze *statne of Maj.-Gen. Reynolds, who was killed while leading the First Coi-ps in the tattle. It Avas designed by Ward, and cast from condemned cannon, and rests on a high pedestal of Quincy granite. The * National Monument is an imposing memorial which stands in the centre of the lines of the dead. It is of white Westerly (R. I.) granite, 60 ft. high, and is crowned by a colossal marble statue of Liberty, holding the laurel-wreath and the sword. There are 4 but- tresses about the base of the column, bearing colossal marble statues of War (an American soldier), History (recording the achievements of tl»e hero), Peace (a stalwart mechanic), and Plenty (a female figure, with grain and fruits). On the base of the monument are carved a few of the grand and solemn words of President Lincoln, delivered here in Novem- ber, 1863. *' It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaiiiint^ before us, — that from these honored dead we take iiu-reased devotion to the cause for which they gave the last full Jiiea:jure of devotion, — that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain, — that this nation, luider God, shall have a new birth of freedom, — and that tlie government of the people, by the people, and for the people, shall not perish from the earth." The Battle of Gettysburg. Shortly after the sanguinary defeat of the National army at Chaneellorsville, Va. (May, 1 803), Gen. Lee advanced rapidly into Maryland and Penn. at the head of a powerful and eompact army of Southern veterans. The Cumberland Valley towns fell iu succession before the invading host, the Lower Susquehanna Valley was overrun, and consternation filled the adjacent States. It was even thought possible that the Confederate cavalry would water their horses in the Delaware and the Hudson, and lines of fortifications were thrown up before Pittsburgh, Harrisburg, and Philadelphia (whence nuich valuable property was sent to the more remote North). Where the blow would fall on one could tell, and the gather- ing militia of the adjacent States were scattered over such wide lines of defence as to be of but little avail. Meantime tlie Army of the Potomac, luicertain of the plans and whereabouts of the enemy, was endeavoring to cover the cities of Balti- more, Philadelphia, and Washington, and to impede the hostile advance. On the 1st of July, 1803, Hill's corps descended from their camps in the mts., and attacked the National cavalry beyond Herr's Tavern, driving them in towards Gettysburg. A part of the First Corps was soon brought up. and the famous " Iron Brigade " (•2d, 6th, and 7th Wis., 19th Ind., and 24th Mich.) swept into the forest E. of the i)resent Springs Hotel and routed Archer's brigade (1st, 7th, and 14th Tenn., 5th and 13th Ala"^), after a terrific; struggle in which Gen. Reynolds was killed and Gen. Archer was made prisoner. The 2d Miss, was captured on the r., but the National lines were forced back slowly by overwhelming numbers. Powerful reinforcements now joined both combatants, and Southern batteries be- gan to enfilade the 11th Corps' from Oak Hill. A North Carolina brigade was cap- tured en masse and hurried to the rear, and the German troops of the 11th Corps held their positions well. But Early's diviscm now flanked the National line on the Harri.sburg road and the Georgia and Louisiana brigades made a resistless attack. Outflanked and overpowered, the Union army fell back without orders, and huddled into Gettysburg. Hoke's North Carolina brigade routed Coster's New-Yorkers and swept through the streets, capturing great numbers of prison- ers. Smith's brigade lay on Cemetery Hill as a reserve, and here the broken divisions were re-formed, while every part of the hill was garnished with cannon, which were ordered into position as fast as they came in from the rout. Troops were hurried ou to the field all night long, by both of the combatants. BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. Route 59. 381 At noon on the 2J of July, Sickles's 3d Corps advanced and formed on the low- ridge above tlie Enunittsburg road ; but the 1. flank was attacked at 4 p. m., and a desperate struggle occuired about the Devil's Den and the rugged peali of Little Round Top. The rebel troops engaged were mostly from Texas and the Gulf States, and fought with desperate fury, jiressing back the National lines and sweeping over the guns. Sickles's men fought well, but v.'ore flanked and forced back from tiieir positions, and retired sullenly, a.ter suffering terrible losses. Humphrey's division of New York and New England men checked the attack of the Alabama, Florida, and Mississippi brigades until new lines were formed on Cemetery Hill, and the i)Osition on Little Round Top was made secure. At late twilight the Louisiana and North Carolina brigades emerged from the streets of Gettysburg and made a gallant charge on East Cemetery Hill, the r. of the Na- tional line. By their imi)etuous ;ukI unexpected rush the infantry supports were .scattered and the batteries in position were captured. But the flanking artillery opened a hot tire at slu)rt range with double-shotted canister; the 33d Mass. pnured in withering volleys, and Carroll's men of Ohio, W. Va., and Penu. charged down upon the enemy and jiressed them from the hill. The National batteries at this point had received positive orders not to limber up and retire, but " to fight t - tlie last" ; and the hand-to-hand contest among the gnns was one of the most tcirible episodes of the battle. Later in the night Johnson's division of Southern liiinps attacked the extreme right, which was held by a New York brigade, and .succeeded in carrying the works. At 4 o'clock in the morning of July 3, a heavy fire was opened by the artilleiy of the 12th Cori)s on tlie position of Johnson's division (on the e.xtreme r.), and a siiarp infantry action followed, at whose close the Union lines were re-established in their advanced works. The fighting on the right Avas over at 11 o'clock, and then an ominous quiet settled over the field. Lee was massing his artillery on Seminary Ridge, opposite the National left centre ; and at 1 o'clock he opened a cannonade, which has been called by veteran artillerists the most tremendoTis exhibition in the history of war of the power of field-batteries. Cemetery Ridge was swept for 2 hours by a storm of shot and shell ; the slopes were ploughed up on every side by the plunging bolts ; and the roar of 145 rebel guns filled the air. The National infantry was saved from annihilation by lying down in the hollows of the ridge ; but the artillery sufi'ered fearfully, several caissons were blown up, and 2 batteries were totally demolished. 80 guns replied to the hostile cannonade, with instructions to slowly slacken their fire. Gen. Lee, believing that the Na- tional artillsry had been destroyed and the supports cut to pieces, ordered a grand charge by the elite of the army, and 3 colunnis, containing 15,000 men, advanced from Seminary Ridge into the valley. The centre was held by Pickett, with 10 veteran regiments of Virginians ; the South Carolina and Georgia brigades were on the left, and the Florida and Alabama brigades were on the right. The firing ceased, and the attention of both armies was concentrated on the massive column of attack. The objective point was a clump of trees in the rear of the lines, boldly outlined against the clear sky ; and the Confederate divisions adv.anced thither- ward in perfect silence, and with the regularity of a dress-pafade. Meeting the skirmish lines of the U. S. sharpshootei^s near the Emmittsburg road, Pickett brushed them away like a swarm of flies, and his men started up the heights at the step of the charge. Then the National batteries opened, sweeping the valley with a scathing shower of grape and canister; tlie thousands of rifles of Hancock's corps commenced a sharp fusilade ; and section after section of artillery from the I'ight and left wheeled into new positions and converged their fire on the advan- cing host. But nothing short of utter annihilation could stay Pickett's heroic Virginians ; thousands fell, but other thousands pressed on, swept over the Na- tional fortifications, took the guns, and cut the army in two at the copse of trees "to which a few — it may be a score or two — of the boldest and bravest that led the van of Pickett's charging column on the 3d of July attained. Thus far the swelling surge of invasion threw its spray, dashing itself to pieces on the rocky bulwark of Northern valor. Let us call this the high-water mark of the Rebel- lion." It was but for a moment ; Hall's Mass. and N. Y. troops reinforced Webb's retreating Pennsylvanians and retook the artillery ; Hays's division opened a close enfilading fire with musketry ; and Stannard's Vermont brigade rose from their sheltered position far in front of the Union line, and destroyed a supporting column by a close and unexpected flank fire. Howard's artillery, massed on Ceme- tery Hill, shattered the South-Carolinians ; the right wing of the assault was 382 Route 60. BATTLE OF GETTYSBURG. liroken ; and the survivors of the Virginia division, withering under the close convergent tire, threw down their arms and surrendered. Tlie broken remains of that superb Soutlierii infantry drifted back to Seminary Kidge ; and the Pennsylvania Reserves began a successful advance on the left wing wliich was only terminated by nightfall. During the night tlie Confederate army retreated through tlie passes of the Soutli Mt. , and soon reached Virginia, though much harassed l)y tlie National ouvahy. The number of men engaged in tliis grand battle is variously estimated, but the best accounts give 80,000 Nationals and 70,000 Confederates (others claim that there were 100,000 Nationals and 91,000 Confederates). The National loss in the a days' battle was 2,834 killed, 13,7:53 wounded, and 6,643 missing. The Confed erate loss was about 18,000 killed and wounded, and 13,620 prisoners. M' 60. Baltimore to Central New York. By the Northern Central R. R., whose N. terminus is at Canandaigua, on the N. Y. Central R. R. This is the favorite route for travellers fi'om tlie South on the way to Watkins Glen and Niagara Falls. The latter is reached either by pass- ing through to Canandaigua and taking the N. Y. Central ; by changing on to the Erie Railway at Elinira ; or by diverging from Williamsport to Emporium and Bulfalo. The line runs Pullman parlor and sleeping cars, and traverses the rich and thickly settled Susquehanna Valley, and the wild and uninhabited Allegheny Mountain region. Baltimore to Harrisburg, 3^- hrs. ; to Williamsport, 85 hrs. ; to Elmira, i2i hrs.; to Watkins Glen, 13^ hrs.; to Canandaigua, 16 hrs.; to Rochester, 18 hrs. ; to Niagara Falls, 22i:-24 hrs. Stations. — Baltimore ; B. & P. R. R. Junctiaign, "40 Indian towns were burned ; 160,000 bushels of corn in the fields or in granaries were destroyed ; a vast number of the finest fx'uit-trees, the product of years of tardy growth, were cut down ; hundreds of gardens covered with edible A^egetables were destroyed ; the inhabitants were driven into the forests to starve, and were hunted like wild beasts; their altars were overturned, and their graves trampled upon by strangers ; and a beautiful, well-watered country, teeming with a prosperous people, .... was desolated and cast back a century within the space of a fortnight." KENNETT SQUARE. Route 61. 385 61. Philadelphia to Port Deposit. By the Phila., Wil. & Bait. R. R. to Lamokin, where the Phila. & Bait. Central R. R. diverges. A branch of the P., W. & B. R. R. connects with this route at Port Deposit, carrying passengers into Baltimore in 6^ hrs. from Phila. Fare from Phila. to Port Deposit, §2.45. Stations. — Phila. ; Lamokin Junction, 14 M. ; Knowlton, 17 ; Rockdale, 2'> ; West Cliester Junction, 21 ; Patterson, 23 ; Concord, 25 ; Brandywine, 27 ; Chadd's Ford Jimction, 30 ; Fairville, 33 ; Rosedale, 34 ; Kennett, 36 ; TougU- kenamon, 39; Avondale, 40; West Grove, 43; Penn, 46; Elk View, 47; Lincoln University, 49; Oxford, 52; Nottingham, 55; Rising Sun, 60; Colora, 62 ; C & P. D. Junction, 67; Port Deposit, 71 (Pen-yville, 75; Baltimore, 112). The train follows the line of the Phila., Wil. & Bait. R. R. (Route 62) as far as Lamokin, where it diverges to the N. W. and intersects the West Chester & Phila. R. R. Thence the road runs W, by Paterson and Concord to Brandywine, near the place of the great battle of Sept., 1777 (see page 338). The train crosses the Brandywine Creek and enters Chester County, which Bayard Taylor has well called "a lovely repro- duction of English Warwickshire. " Kennett Square is a pleasant old hamlet N. of the track and on the State Road. It was the camp-ground of the royal army \inder Sir William Howe before its victory at the Brandywine ; and its scenery has been celebrated, in later days, in Taylor's poem, '' The Story of Kennett." The Eaton Female Institute receives summer boarders. J. Bayard Taylor was born at Kennett Square in 1825, and in 1842 he began to learn the printer's art and to write verses. In 18i4-46 he made a romantic pedestrian tour in Germany, Italy, and France, whose account was given in "Views xVfoot." Since that time his travels have been incessant, and have reached the most remote points, concerning Avhich he has published numerous interesting books, besides volumes of romance, poetry, and translations. The mansion of Ccrlnrcroft, at Kennett Square, belongs to Mr. Taylor, who, however, spends most of his time abroad. The train passes S. W. across an ancient and well-populated region where the prolific limestone soil yields large crops. Lincoln University is a school of the Presbyterians, founded in 1854, and having 9 instructors and 140 students. From the neighboring village of Oxford stages run to Penn Hill, Oakhill, and Peach Bottom. The train now passes S. W..to Port Deposit, a town of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, situated on the Susque- hanna River at the lower falls and 5 M. from the Chesapeake Bay. It has a large trade in the trans-shipment of pine lumber which is floated down the river in rafts from Lock Haven and Williamsport ; and there are granite-quarries in the vicinity. The Port Deposit Branch of the P., W. & B. R. R. runs S. E. along the 1. bank of the Susquehanna to Perrymlle. Perryville to Baltimore, see Route 62. 17 386 Route 62. CHESTER. I 62. Philadelphia to Wilmington and Baltimore. By the Phila., Wil. & Baltimore R. R. in 3^-5^ lirs. — The new Limited Ex- press-train (Pullman cars) runs between the two cities (stopping only at Wilming- ton) in 2 lirs. and 40 n)in. Stations. — Philadeli)hia ; Gray's FeiTy, 2 M. ; 58th St. ; Mt. Moriah ; Bonaf- fon ; Paschall, 5 ; Darby ; Sharon Hill ; Glenolden ; Ridley Park ; Crnin Lynne ; Chester, 14; Lamokin, 14^; Thnrlow. 16; Linwood, 18; Claymont,20; Bellevne, 23; Wilmington, 28; Delaware Junction, 30; Newport, 32; Stanton, 34; Price's Wood, 37 ; Newark, 40 ; Elkton, 46 ; North-East. 52 ; Charlestown, 55 ; Purry- ville, 61 ; Havre de Grace, 62 ; Aberdeen, 67 ; Perrymansville, 71 ; Edgewood, 77 ; Magnolia, 79 ; Chase's, 83 ; Stemmer's Run, 8'.) ; Bay View ; Baltimore, 98. ^ The train leaves the terminal station at the corner of Broad St. and Wash- infjton Ave., and runs W. through a busy manufacturing quarter, passing tlie U. S. Arsenal and the Naval Asylum on the r. The immense build- ings of the Almshouse and the white monuments of the Woodland Ceme- tery are seen on the r. as the train crosses the Schuylkill River on the Neioark Viaduct, a costly structure 800 ft. long. At its W. end is the station of Gray's Ferry, which was named m honor of the proprietor of the alicient ferry at this point. Over the floating-bridge which was after- wards built here, Gen. Washington made a triumphal passage in 1789, while on his way to assume the Presidency of the new Republic. The through trains from New York to Washington here run on to the P., W. & B. tracks, after flanking the city of Phila. by way of Frankford, Fair- mount Park, W. Phila., and the Junction R. R. The line now bends to the S. W. and passes several suburban stations. Near Ridley Park is a large summer hotel, and the station-building at Criim Lynne is noticeable for its pretty decoration (as are also most of the other stations on this railroad). 11 M. below Phila. the traveller may see the spacious build- ings of the Lazaretto, the quarantine of the city. The main structtxre is 180 ft. long, and is surmounted by a dome. Vessels from foreign ports are boarded at this point and examined by the health-officers. The Lazaretto is on Tinicum Island, near which was the fortified town of New Gottenhurg, "the metropolis of New Sweden." It was founded in 1643 by Lt.- Col. Printz of the Swedish army, the governor of Queen Christina's American do- mains. He arrived here in the ships Swan and Charitas, with a goodly company of adventurous Scandinavians, whose spiritual head was the learned Pastor Cam- panius. To the N. were soon erected the fortified towns of Nya Wasa and Grips- holm ; also the new Fort Kingsessing, whereof the Swedish annalist Avrote : " This was no fort, but good strong log-houses, built of good strong hard hickory, 2 stories high, which was a fort good and strong enough to secure themselves from the Indians. For what signifieth a fort when the people therein boast of the strength of the place, and do not crave for God's assistance? And there lived 5 freemen, who plough, sow, plant, and manure the land, and they lived very well there for the governor had set them there." The train now passes on to Chester {American House ; Columbia), a. thriving city of nearly 12,000 inhabitants, with foundries, car-factories, cotton and Avoollen mills, and great ship-yards for the manufacture of iron steamsliij^s. The ship-yards of John Roach cover 23 acres, and em- CHESTER. Route 62. 387 ploy 2,000 men, building the great vessels of the Pacific Mail Steamship Line (of which the City of Pckin, recently launched, is the largest vessel in the world, except the Great Eastern), and other stanch and stately vessels. There are several quaint old hipped -roof buildings here, dating from the early provincial ei*a, and the churchyard of St. Paul's has many curious and mossy grave-stones. The holly-tree near Penn's landing- place (S. of Chester Creek) is shown to visitors; and the Court House is a venerable building which dates from 1724. The Penn. Militarif Academy is located in this city, and is a State school, with 10 instructors and 140 students. The Aston Ridge Seminary is G M. N. W. near the hamlet of Village Green (by plej^sant rural roads through a land of dai- ries); and to the N., in Springfield, is Sxoarthmore College, an institution of the sect of the Friends, with 18 instructors and 243 students (a station on the W. Chester & Phila. R. R.). Benjamin West was born near SiuinglieUl in 1738, of an old Quaker family, and soon developed an intense love for tlrawing. After 17(iO he dwelt in Europe, achieving a wide celebrity for historical paintings of a high order of concej)tion and harmonious execution. In 1792 he succeeded 8ir Joshua Reynolds as Presi- dent of the Royal Academy, and in 1820 he died at London. Among his chief works were *' Christ Healing the Sick," and " Death on the Pale Horse." Chester was on the Indian domain of Mocoponaca, and was settled by the Swedes about 1613, under the name of Uplaml (Oplandt), — being, therefore, the oldest town in the State. In November, 1GS2, William Penn and his companions landed here and bestowed n]toii the place the name which it now bears. The first Provincial Assembly convened at Chester, Dec. 5, 1682, and enacted a code of 70 laws for the government of the new settlements. The county-seat re- mained here for 169 years. Beyond Chester the Baltimore train runs through the old Marcus Hook district, where colonies of Finns settled in the 17th century. The village of Limvood was formerly called Marcus Hook, and lies in a rich dairy- region, ^ M. S. of the station of the same name ; 1 M. beyond which the train enters the State of Delaware, and follows the course of the broad Delaware River, by the milk-stations of Claymont, Holly Oak, Bellevue, and Ellerslie. The Brandywine Creek is crossed near the Old Swedes' Church, and the train sweeps around to the S. side of Wilmington, the metropolis of Delaware (see Route 63). Tlie Christiana Creek is now fol- lowed to the S. W., by the divergence of the Delaware R. R, Newport (Miller's Hotel) is a quiet and venerable hamlet on the Christiana, dating its origin from the Finnish immigration of 1640. Stanton is | M. W. of the line, on the water-shed between the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, and between the Red Clay and White Clay Creeks. It was settled by the Quakers about 2 centuries ago, and the name was given in honor of a prominent Quaker gentleman. The train now passes near the Iron Hills, where the Indian tribe of the Minquas dwelt. From the chief of these summits Washington watched the advance of the British army from Elk- ton in 1777, while Gen. Maxwell's New Jersey troops held the hills. 388 Route 62. NEWARK. Lord Cornwallis advanced upon Newark in Sept., 1777, defeated Maxwell near Pencander, and compelled the Continental army to retire to the line of the Brandywine. Newark {Delaware House) is N. of the Iron Hills, and 1 M. N. of the station of the same name. It is a pretty hamlet, with several manufactories on the White Clay Creek. Tliis place has acquired the name of " The Athens of Delaware," on account of its educational facilities, consisting of 2 female seminaries, the Newark Academy (founded in 1749), and the Dclaioare College, a prosperous institution which dates from 1833, and is well endowed, 2 M. N. of Newark is a mineral spring with consitlerable local fame, and stages rim to Hopewell, 18 ]\f. distant. 2 M. beyond Newark and about 1,000 ft. N. of the railroad are the stones which mark the Tangent Point of the celebrated Mamn and Dixon's line. This line marks the boundary between Penn and Maryland, and was located by the sur- veyors Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixon in 1762- 67. It was 327 M. long and was marked by stone pillai-s 4 ft. high at each mile, carved with the arms of the Calvert and Penn. families (between whose domains it was drawn). In later daj'^s this boundary assumed great importance as separating the Slave States from the Free States, and in this phase it came to be regarded as extending across the Re- public from ocean to ocean. After the extinction of slavery " south of Mason and Dixon's line," and the close of the Secession War, this local boundary lost its na- tional significance and importance. Beyond Mason and Dixon's line the train enters the State of Maryland, and runs down to Elkton, a to^vn of about 1,800 inhabitants, Mie capital of Cecil County. It has an ancient Court House, an academy of high re- pute, and 4: churches. Tlie Elk River runs S. to the broad estuaries of the Chesapeake Bay. This village was settled in 1694 by Swedish mari- ners from Fort Casimir, and was called the Head of Elk for about a cen- tury. Aug. 25, 1777, Sir William Howe's Anglo-German army (13,000 British soldiers and 5,000 Germans) landed on the Elk River and marched 11 M. N. to tlie Head of Elk, whence Howe soon advanced to the short and victorious campaign of the Brandywine, which resulted in the con- quest of Philadelphia (see page 338). The train now crosses the Head of Elk Neck, and stops at Korth-East, a hamlet which was destroyed by the inarauding British fleet under Admiral Cockburn in 1813 (Avhcn Charlestown and several other of the Bay toAvns were destroyed). 9 M. N. W. is the Brick Meeting-house, which was built in the 17th century by William Penn. The most northerly point of Chesapeake Bay reaches North- East, and is crossed by a railroad viaduct. CliarlesUnon is S. of its station, and was settled in 1742. It was for somo time a commercial rival of Baltimore; but received a terrible blow from Admiral Cockburn's pillaging naval parties, and is noAV known only for its manufactories of fire-bricks. The train now traverses high embank- ments, from which the Chesapeake Bay is seen on the 1., and passes tho iron- works at Principio, on the Principio Creek, which was explored by Capt. John Smith in 1608. Perryville is the S. E. terminus of a branch HAVRE DE GRACE. Route 62. 389 railroad to Port Deposit (see page 385). The road here reaches the broad and stately Susquehanna River, which was formerly crossed by the trains on great ferry-boats (until 1867). The bridge over which the line now passes is a substantial and lofty structure, ^ M. long, and costing % 1,250,000. Fine views of the river and its bordering hills are gained on either side, with the Chesapeake Bay on the 1. On the S. side of the Susquehanna is Havre de Grace., a thriving town of about 2,400 inhabi- tants, situated on ground sloping up from the water's edge. The vicinity of this place is noted for the wild fowl which are found late in the year. The town was laid out during the Revolutionary era, and was named Havre de Grace by some Franco-American officers who passed hitherwai'd on tlieir way to the southera campaigns, and saw a topographical re- semblance between the new town and the city of Havre, in France. Aberdeen is a characteristic Marjdand hamlet in the old parish of Hall's Cross Roads, with stages running 6 M. N. W. to Churchville. About 3 M. beyond, the train passes (on the r., \ M. distant) the SpesiUia Church, a handsome Norman edifice occupying the site of the similarly named church which was built here in 1670. The name '^ Spes-Utie" (hope of Utie) was given in honor of the Utie family, so powerful and active in the early cohniial days ; and the church accommodates one of the oldest Episcopal parishes in Maryland. The train now passes Perrymansville, and soon crosses the great bridge over Bush River (3,189 ft. long), and then, beyond Edgewood and Magnolia, the Gunpowder River is crossed on a bridge 5,238 ft. long. To the S, E., near the mouths of these broad estuaries, are the most famous sporting-grounds of the Chesapeake Bay, where immense flocks of aquatic birds feed along the shallows and flats. The pursuit of canvas-back ducks forms an arduous but profitable and exciting sport, and several of the shooting-grounds on tlie most frequented islands are preserved and carefully guarded by their owners. Abbey Island, at the mouth of Bush River, is famous for its annual visitations of large water-fowl ; and CarrolVs Island, at the mouth of the Gunpowder River, is similarly favored. Tlie low-lying points and marshes in tlie vi- cinity form tine shooting-grounds, where geese and swans are found ; arid MaxwelVs Point, 3 M. from the Gunpowder Bridge, has good accommo- dations for sportsmen. The level shores near Harewood and Stemmer's Run are also visited for this purpose. Stemmer's Ran is near the head of the Middle River, and the train soon crosses the Back River on a wooden bridge 760 ft. long, with the Bay in sight on the 1. The train runs S. W. 7 M., entering the manufacturing suburb of Canton, and passing in sight of the harbor of Baltimore and Fort McHenry (on the 1.). Baltimore, see page 394. 390 Route 63. WILMINGTON. 63. Wilming^ton to Lewes and Crisfield. — The State of Delaware. By the Delaware Division of the Phila., Wihuington & Bait. R. R. and its con- necting lines. Wihnington to Lewes in 5i hrs.; to Crisheld in 7a hrs. Stations. — Wilmington ; Newcastle, 6 M.; Bear, 12; KirkAvood, 16; Mt. Pleasant, 21; Middletown, 25; Townsend, 29; Blackbird, 31; Green Spring, 34; Clayton, 37 (Smyrna) ; Brenford, 40 ; Moorton, 42 ; Dover, 48 ; Wyoming, 51 ; Woodside, 54; Canterbury, 5(3; Felton, 58 ; Harrington, 04 (Lewes, 104); Far- mington, 68; Greenwood, 72 ; Bridgeville, 76; Seaford, 84; Laurel, 90; Delmar, 97; Williams' Siding, 100; Salisbury, 103; Forktown, 107; Eden, 110; Princess Anne, 116; Westover, 121; Kingston, 125; Marion, 129; Crisfield, 135. Wilmington. Hotels. — * Clayton House, an elegant new building at the corner of Market and 6th Sts. {$3 a day) ; United States Hotel ; and several smaller houses. Amusements at the new tlieatre-hall in the Masonic Temple. Ueading-Eoom at the Wilmington Institute, corner of Market and 8th Sts. (open from 8 a. m. until 10 p. M.). Poal-Office, corner of King and 6th Sts. Horse-Cars on French, Front, Market, and 10th Sts. and Delaware Ave.; and from the R. R. station to the centre of the city, and to Rising Sun and Christiana Hundred. Stages run from Grubb's Hotel to Newcastle 5 times daily; also to Avondale semi-weekly. Railroads. — The Phila., Wil. & Bait., on Water St., near French (to Phila., 28 M.; to Bait., 70 M.) ; the Wil. & Western, at the S. side of the Market St. Bridge (to Landenberg, 20 M.); the Wil. & Reading, corner of Front and Madison Sts. (to Reading, 70 M. ). Steamers inn to Piiila. daily. Wilmington, the chief city of the State of Delaware, is situated be- tween the Brandywine and Christiana Creeks, near tlieir confluence, and 2 M. from the Delaware River. It has 40,000 inhabitants, witli 43 churches and several academies, and is evenly laid out in rectangular squares. The manufacturing interests are of great extent and value, foremost of which are the ship-yards, where many steam-vessels are made, ranging in size from the swift little tug-boat to tlie stately ocean-steam- ship. The Harlan & Hollingsworth Co. builds 7-8 large ships yearly, besides river-boats and steam-tugs. Several U. S. frigates were made here during the Secession War, and the yard now turns out iron steamships for the West India and Southern coast-lines. The flour-mills on the Brandy- wine grind over 1,000,000 bushels of wheat yearly; 3-4,000 carriages are made by 300 men; and the Dupont Powder-Mills, 3 M. to the N. W., are among the largest in the coitntry. There are also car and car-wheel works, cotton and woollen mills, shoe and leather factories, and other branches of mechanical industry. Market St. is the main thoroughfare; and the markets are at the inter- section of 4th St., while the quaint old City Hall is near 6th St. Grace Church (comer of 9th and West Sts.) is a stately Gothic building of green serpentine-stone from Chadd's Ford, and is one of the finest Methodist chvtrches in the Republic. Near this point is the massive little Sweden- borgian Church, situated on the broad and pleasant Delaware Avenue, which crosses Ihe ridge (112 ft. high) back of the city, and overlooking NEWCASTLE. Route 63. 391 the broad Delaware River. St. Andrew's (8th and Sliipley Sts. ) is a plain structure which is the seat of the Episcopal bishop of this diocese. The Wilmington Institute is at the corner of 8th and Market Sts., and has a good librarj^ — small, but accessible. On 6th St., corner of French St., is the Wesleyan Female College, which is under the care of tlie Methodist Church. Tlie Old Swedes Church is near the Brandywine Eiver, and is a remarkably quaint structure, surrounded by a venerable graveyard. It was founded in 1698. William Penn contributed to the building-fund ; Queen Anne sent a Bible ; and the miners of Sweden presented a silver chalice and service of plate. Among the ancient tombstones is one whicli covers the grave of Fetrus Tranberg, rector of the parish from 1742 to 1748. He was succeeded by Acrelius, the Swedish historian; and Girelius was the last of the Swedish rectors. It is claimed (with reason) that Peter Minuit, the founder of the city, and Reorus Torkillus, its first minister, are buried here. The old church, deserted and decaying for years, was taken by the Trinity parish, and is now kept in good order. The Brandywine Springs are near Wilmington, and are a favorite stimmer resort for Delaware families. The waters are chalybeate in character, and are mildly tonic in effect. A large new hotel has recently been opened at these Springs, situated on high land and surrounded by ornamental grounds. Tlie scenery of the lower Brandywine valley is very attractive in its quiet rural beauty, and is accessible by well-built high- ways. Newcastle {Jefferson House, facing the bay ; Butler House), the capital of Newcastle County, is 6 M. S. of Wilmington, on the Delaware River, and has about 2,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, and the plain county-build- ings. It has large iron-works and some commerce, and is latterly making considerable progress. Fort Delaware is seen, 4 M. to the S. In the year 1632 King Gustavus Adolphus of Sweden and Chancellor Oxen- stiern acquired Delaware by negotiation with Holland ; and while the Swedish army lay at Nuremberg, sagacious plans were made lor the settlement of a new province. But the king was soon afterwards killed at the battle of Lntzen, leaving the great scheme of a free Protestant colony in America (" the jewel of his kingdom ") to be carried out by Oxenstiern. In 1638 Peter Minuit sailed fi-oin Gottenburg in the ships Ke.y of Kalnwr and Bird Grip, and founded a colony on the present site of Wilmington, having bought the land from the sachem Matta- hoon with a copi)er kettle. He built a 5-gun fort, which was named Fort Chris- tina, in honor of the Queen of Sweden. Fresh Scandinavian swarms soon entered tlie Delaware, and the rapid growth of New Sweden began to alarm the Dutch at New York. Both parties fortified their settlements along the bay and river, and the men of New Haven were expelled from the E. shore and sent home. A Bostoji ship which was ascending the Delaware in search of "the great lake Lynconia" was fired upon by the Swedish batteries, and was forced to jjay for the shot which had been thrown at her and to leave the river. Lt.-Col. Printz succeeded Minuit as governor, and built Fort Elsinburg at Varkenkil (Salem, N. J.), where the doughty governor, who "weighed 400 pounds, and drank 3 drinks at every meal," ruled in state until the fort was attacked by an enemy more terrible than the Yankees or the Dutch. The 8 guns of the forl^, availed nothing against the myriads of the assailants ; and the garrison abandoned the place, giving it the signilicant 392 Route 63. SMYRNA. name of Mosquitocsberg. In 1651 Gov. Stuj-vesant of New York built Fort Casimir at Newcastle, to check the Swedish power; but it was captured 3 years later, and was named Fojt Trinitj', because the attack was made on Trinity Sunday. The region adjacent was called New Amstel, and was placed under the patronage of the city of Amsterdam, Avhence came many immigrants. In 1655 Gov. Stuyvesant entered the Delaware with 7 ships from New York, and captured Fort Trinity after a short siege. He brought his armed vessels up the creek, and established 5 land-batteries around Fort Christma. The Dutch parallels were advancing, the ammunition of the fort ran low, and Gov. Rising was forced to surrender, stip- ulating that the Swedish troops " should march out of the fort with beating of drums, fifes, and colors flying, firing matches, balls in their mouths, and with their arms." So fell the Swedish power in Delaware, and in 1664 Fort Christina (which had been named Altona by the Dutch conqtierors) was taken by the Engli-sh. In 1739 King George II. chartered it as "the Borough of Wilmin^ ton " ; and in 1777, after Washingtcm's head-quarters had been removed to the N., the British army occupied the place. It was made a city in 1832, since which (and especially during the i>ast 20 years) Wilmington has become wealthy and prominent as a manufacturing centre. The Delaware R, R. runs S. from Wilmington to Newcastle, whence it turns to the S. W., leaving the Delaware River, and gaining the interior plains. Bear station is 1 M. N. of Red Lion village and its celebrated camp-grounds. Kirkivood station is 3 M. from the hamlet of St. George (St. George's Hotel), and the train thence passes S., and crosses the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal. From near Kirkwood the Penn. & Del. R. R. runs 5 M. S. E. to Delaware City, a maritime village at the outlet of the canal, and opposite the island where staitds Fort Delaware, a powerful work mounting 155 guns, and which has cost $ 1,750,000. In 1873 a new barbette battery was commenced opposite Fort Delaware, designed for 6 mortars and 21 15-inch cannon. The train now runs S. across St. George's Hundred, by Mt. Pleasant, to Middletoimi (Middle- town House; National), a pretty village (4 M. W. of Odessa) whence great quantities of peaches ai-e shipped. From Townsend the Kent Co. and Queen Anne's & Kent R. Rs. run S. W. into the Eastern Shore of Maryland, forking at Masseys, and reaching Chestertown and Rack-Hall (31 and 36 M. from Townsend), and Centremlle, the capital of Queen Anne's County (36 M.). Chestertown is the seat of Washington College, which was founded in 1785 and has about 80 students. The Delaware R. R. next crosses Appoquinimink Hundred, and reaches Clayton, whence a short branch nins to Smyrna {Delaware House; Smyrna Hotel), a thriving hamlet of over 2,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches and a library. It is the second town in the State, and annually ships great quantities of peaches and grain. The Maryland & Delaware R. R. runs from Clayton 44 M. S. W., across level plains, well settled and prolific, to Easton (Brick Hotel), the capital of the Maryland county of Talbot, near the remote and bay-environed peninsula of St. Michael's. 8-10 M. N. E. of Smyrna is Bombay Hook (Logan's Hotel, visited by sportsmen), N. of which is Collins' Beach (Hygenia House), a quiet summer resort on Delaware Bay (reached by tri- weekly steamers from Arch St. Wharf, Phila.). The train LEWES. Route 63. 393 runs S. E. from Clayton to Dover {Capitol House), the capital of the State of Delaware, a village of 2,231 inhabitants, 8 M. from Delaware Bay. On the Public Square at the centre are the county buildings, tlie hotel, bank, Delmvarirxn office, and the neat and commodious State House. 8 M. S. E. of Dover is the Kitt's Hammock House, on the Delaware Bay. Wyoming station is 1 M. from the farming centre of Camden (National Hotel); and the line now traverses a rich fruit-growing district to Felton (Fountain House), whence a highway leads E., by Frederica, to the summer resort of Bower's Beach (2 hotels). The Junction guests ; Guy's Monument House, European plan ; Maltby House, 180 - 184 \V. Pratt St. , 8 3 a day. The Albion is on Cathedral St., beyond the Washington Monument, and is a large family liotel; and Gittings' new hotel garni is on Charles St. Rcnnerfs is on Fayette St., near Monument Sqiiare ; the Merchants' Hotel is on Pratt St. ; and the Howard House (S 2 a day) is on Howard St., near Baltimore. Near the Northern Central R. R. station are the American, Belvidere, and Northern Central Hotels ; and the Fountain House is near the Bait. & Ohio R. R. station. Restaurants. — * Rennerfs, near Monument Square, is visited by ladies ; Pepper's is at 1'24 W. Baltimore St ; * Butcher's is on Baltimore St., near Calvert, and is principally patronized by ladies ; Wilson's, corner of Baltimore and North Sts. There is a restaurant at the Druid Hill Park. Confectionery and ices are obtained at the saloons on Baltimore and Charles Sts. The restaurants of Balti- more fui'nisli (in their seasons) the best of Chesapeake Bay and Norfolk oysters ; also the delicious game-birds of the Bay, including the reed-birds and canvas- back ducks. Batlis. — In the principal hotels, with all conveniences. Turkish and electro- chemical baths are given at 54 N. Liberty St. ($ 1 for Turkish ; ;;? 2.50 for electro- chemical ; open from 8 a. m. to 9 p. M.). Beading:- Kooms. — The * Peabody Institute, comer of Charles and Monu- ment Sts.; the Maryland Institute, on Pratt St.; the Mercantile Library (Saratoga and St. Paul Sts.), open from 10 a. m. to 10 p. m. ; the Maryland Historical Society (on introduction from a member), corner of Saratoga and St. Paul Sts.; the Y. M. C. A. Theatres. — * Ford's Grand Opera-House, an elegant auditorium opened in 1S71 and accommodating 2,500 persons (Fayette St., near Eutaw); the new Acad- r^H __ □□ miy J.(aau i-f'r«- 5^-1 ^Q! QSODHnS Crdi^^aLJGiiigaLl Lajpa LziaaL y-^>[ * " linUimore LJLJLJ 17- Lexington Maria Fdl's Point" ....'. to. 0«/r/ " II. Green Mount Ctmairy' Mamnc Temflt . Athenttun Peabody InttitvU Academy of 130. Grand Of era House . . 11. Concordia Otera Houu I, Theatre I BALTIMORE. Route 61 395 emy of Music, on Howarrl St. ; the Concordia Opera-House (comer of Eutaw and German Sts.), belonging to the German Concordia Society, and usually devoted to tlie German opera and drama (introduction to the fine billianl-hall, etc., by a member of the society). The Froiit St. Theatre represents burlesques and s]>ec- tacular pieces. Classic music is given at the Peabody Institute and in the new Masonic Temple, where also the best lecturers may be heard. Miscellaneous entertainments at the New Assembly Rooms, the hall of the Maryland institute, and other public halls throughout the city. The famous old Holliday Street Theatre was destroyed by fire in 1873, but has been rebuilt. Amusements. — Horse-racing is carried on, under the auspices of the Mary- land Jockey Club, at Plnilico, li M. from the N. W. boundary of the city. Matidi- games of base-ball are frequently idayed on the grounds of the Baltimore Club, one of the best of the professional clubs. Art Collections. — The annual exhibitions in the Atheneeum draw large crowds. The Pealxidy Institute Gallery of Art is in process of organization. The sales-galleries of Myers & Hedian and of Butler & Pcrigo are on Charles St. , and have a variety of American and French pictures. The best private gallery iu the city (and one of the finest in America) is that of "William T. Walter, Esq., at No. 65 MouTit Vernon Place. Horse-Cars. — To Druid Hill Park, by Baltimore and Eutaw Sts. and Madison Ave.; to Waverly and Peabody Heights, by Charles and Calvert Sts.; to the Balti- more Cemetery and Clifton Park, by Gay St. and the Bellair Road ; to Powhatan, fnnn the W. end of Baltimore St.; to Hall's Springs, by the Harford Road; to Federal Hill, Locust Point, and Fort McHeniy, from the corner of Hanover and Baltimoi-e Sts.; to Fell's Point and Canton, by Baltimore St., Broadway, and Alice Anna St.; from the President St. station, on Baltimore and Green Sts. and Pennsylvania Ave., to the city limits; to Greenmount Cemetery, Waverly, Go- vanstown, and Towsontown, by the York Road; to Franklin Square and the city limits, by Fnyette, Republican, Townsend, and Gilmor Sts.; to Patterson Park, by Lombard and Pratt Sts. Passengers can pass from one route to another I by means of exchange-tickets. Carriages. — Public hackney-carriages are entitled to 75c. for carrying a pas- senger from any railroad station or steamboat to any house or hotel in the city. Each additional i)assengcr pays 25c. ; and each trunk or box, 15c. From one l)oint within the city limits to another, 75c. ; 2 passengers, § 1 (children under 10 years of age, no charge ; over 10, half price). By the hour, $ 1. 50, and ;? 1 for each additional hour. Tariffs of fares are placed inside the carriages, and in case of disac;reement with the driver, the passenger should apply to a policeman to rectify the trouble. Stages. —To Bellair, Tues., Thurs., and Sat., at 8 A. M. from Brown's Hotel ; to Kingsville, Kellville, and Franklmville, Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat., at 1 p. m., from the Rising Sun Hotel ; to Long Green and Harford Road, daily at 3 p. m., from the Starr Hotel; to Franklin and Powhatan daily at 3.30 p. m., from the Gen. Wayne Hotel ; to Pikesville daily, at 3 p. m., from the Hand Tavern. Railroads.— The Phila., Wilmington & Bait., to Wilmington (70 M.) and Phila. (9SM.); New York, ISS M. ; Boston, 422 M.; the Northern Central, to Harrisburg, 85 M. ; Elmira, 256 M., and Canandaigua, 325 M.; the Western Maryland, to Hagerstown, 84 M. ; the Bait. & Ohio, to Washington, 40 M., and to Cumberland (178 M.) and Wheehng (379 M.) ; the Baltimore & Potomac, to Washington, 43 M. Passengers who are bound to Washington on the through Pullman trains do not change cars here. The famous railroad tunnels under Baltimore are interesting ])ieces of engineering. The Bait. & Potomac R. R. traverses 7,520 ft. within the city limits, most of which is in brick-arched tun- nels, built in 1870 - 73, at an expense of i^ 2,300,000. The portions of the line which are not arched over are masked by deep sunken cuts. The Union Tunnel runs from the upper part of the city to the open track which leads to the wharves at Canton. The tunnel portion is 3,400 ft. long, and cost over $ 1,800,000. It is used chiefly for freighting and connnercial purposes, and affords transit to the 5 rail- roads which terminate at Baltimore. Steamsliips. — To Bremen, foi-tnightly ; to Liverpool^ to Havana and New Orleans, fortnightly; to Savannah, weekly; to Charlestown, every 5 days; to Wilmington, N. C, weekly; to Richmond, at 4 p. m. daily; to Fortress Monroe and Norfolk, at 4 p. m. daily; to Fredericksburg, Tues. and Fri., at 4 p. m. ; to Alexandria and Georgetown, weekly ; to Norfolk and Boston, tri-weekly ; to New 39 G Route 64. BALTIMORE. York (Toy the canals) daily ; to Philadelphia, at 3 p. m. daily (by the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal), fare, $ 1.50. Chesapeake Bay Lines. — To Crisfield, Onancock, Newton, Snow Hill, Occa- lianock, and the Eastern Shore, at 5 p. m. on Tues., Wed., Fri.,and Sun. (from South St. wharf) ; to Benedict and the Patuxent jiorts, at evening on Wed., Thur., and Sat. (Pier 8) ; to Havre de Grace and Port Dejiosit, at 5 p. m. daily ; to An- napolis and West River, at 7 a. m. daily (Pier 8~) ; to Easton, Oxford, Cambridge, and Denton, at 9 p. m. Tues., Thur., and Sat. (Pier 3); to Crunipton and the Chester River i)orts, at 7 a. m. Tues., Thur., and Sat. (Pier 7). Ferries, — from W. Falls Ave. to Federal Hill ; from Broadway to Ijocust Point. Tlie liny Line of steamboats forms one of the main ])leasure-routes to the South. The boats leave Baltimore at 4 p. ji. (on arrival of i)assenger.s wlio leave New York by the 9 a. m. train), and passes down the Chesapeake B.ay, connecting at Ports- mouth, Va. (early the next morniug), with the Seaboard & Roanoke R. R. for the South-Atlantic States. Baltimore, the metropolis of the State of Maryland, and one of the chief commercial cities of the Kepiiblic, is situated on a deep and narrow estuary 2^ M. from the Patapsco River and about 14 M. from Chesa- peake Bay. It is favorably located for commerce by reason of its fine harbor and an open connection wdth the sea either by Cliesapeake Bay or by the Chesapeake & Delaware Canal (200 M. ). Several railroads from the West converge here, and large shipments of grain are made to Europe. The city is the chief point for working the rich copper-ores of Lake Su- perior, besides great quantities from Chili and Cuba, and produces nearly 4,000 tons of refined copper yearly. The smelting- works are in the suburb of Canton, and employ 1,000 men. Millions of feet of lumber are re- ceived here every year, and are piled near Jones' Falls. The bituminous coal of the Cumberland district and the anthracite of the Susquelianna Valley are brought hither to the amomit of nearly 1,000,000 tons annually. Tliere are large iron-works and rolling-mills; nail-factories turning out 100,000 kegs yearly; and 2 locomotive-factories. 50,000 hogsheads of tobacco are received yearly, being provided for in large and dry fire-proof •warehouses belonging to the State. 1,000,000 barrels of flour are in- spected here yearly, and enormous quantities of grain pass to Europe by til is port. The new^ elevator at Locust Point has 52 bins and a capacity of 1,500,000 bushels, and the docks and railroads in that part of the city greatly facilitate the trans-shipment of coal and grain. 500,000 hides are annually made into leather and sent to the New England States, and shoe- factories are now being successfully established. 300,000 barrels of sugar are refined yearly; 400,000 barrels of whiskey are sold; 40,000 bales of cotton are used in the mills; 1,500,000 pounds of wool are made into cloth; 40,000 tons of Peruvian guano are imported ; 25 firms are engaged in packing Chesapeake Bay oysters; thousands of h-ands are employed in manufacturing clothing; coffee and other West Indian products are im- ported in immense quantities; pianos are made in great numbers; and over $10,000,000 woi'th of live stock are sold here. These returns of the trade of Baltimore date from 7 years ago, and are far exceeded by the BALTIMORE. Route 64. 397 present conditions. Many of the fleetest and most beautiful vessels of the American commercial marine are made here, and the reputation of the " Baltimore Clippers " is world-wide. The cliief manufactures of the city are on the fine water-powers of Gwynne's and Jories' Falls. The population of the city was 267,354 in 1870, and is now estimated at over 300,000, with a valuation of $225,000,000. The tonnage of the port is 250,000 tons, and it lias a foreign commerce of $ 20,000,000 a year. There are 20 banks and 9 savings banks, and 5 daily and several weekly newspapers. The city is picturesquely situated on a cluster of hills, and is surrounded by a fertile and (Iiversitied country. The municipal limits cover about 12 square M., and are bounded on the N. by North Ave., a fine thoroughfare 100 ft. wide and 4 M. long. The business quarter is between Eutaw St., Baltimore St., Jones' Falls, and the basin, and has many fine mercantile buildings ; while the W. part of the city is devoted to pleasant residence-streets. Baltimore St. is the main thoroughfare of the retail trade, and affords a brilliant spectacle on pleasant afternoons. Here may be seen thousands of the ladies of Baltimore, who are pre-eminent among their American sisters for brilliant and enduring beauty and vivacity. The * City Hall is a new edifice on the corner of Lexington and Holliday Sts., and is one of the most imposing municii^al buildings in America. It was built between 1867 and 1874, and cost nearly $3,000,000. The architecture is Renaissance and composite, with many graceful Palladian arches ; and the building is surmounted by a round tower and dome, 222 ft. high. The walls are 5-7 ft. thick, of Maryland marble, and all the floors are of iron, brick, and cement. There are 200 rooms and 2 inner court yards, and the front is adorned with Corinthian columns. The dimensions of this municipal palace are 225 x 140 ft., and its general effect is to be improved by the removal of the adjacent buildings. The U. S. Court House is near the City Hall (corner of North and Fayette Sts.), and is a plain and substantial grani'te building. The Battle Monument is one of the fine works of memorial art which Lave won for Baltimore the title of "the Monumental City." It was erected in 1815 to honor the memory of the soldiers who fell in defending the city against the British, in Sept., 1814. It is 52 ft. high, and rests on a base 20 ft. high (in Egyptian architecture). The shaft is in the form of the Roman fasces, bound together with fillets whereon are inscribed the names of the fallen soldiers. At the base are bas-reliefs of the battle of North Point and the bombardment of Fort McHenry; and the shaft is surmounted by a colossal female figure representing the city of Baltimore, mural-crowned, and bearing in one hand a rudder (emblematic of her commerce) and in the other a wreath of laurel. Passing N. from Monument Square and its great hotels, Calvert St. 398 Route 64. BALTIMORE. soon reaches the Calvert Spring, around which a small public square is laid out. The monument wliich was erected here in honor of Gen. Armistead (the defender of Fort McHenry) has fallen into decay. A short distance beyond this point is the Calvert Station of the Northern Central R. R., an imposing building 315 ft. long, with 42 cohamns of granite. St. Ignatius Church and Convent (Jesuit) is at the corner of Calvert and Madison Sts., and is renowned for its brilliant frescos. The Loyola College is a Jesuit institution at the corner of Madison and Calvert Sts., with 10 instructors, 141 students, and a library of 25,000 volumes. Madison St. leads E. to the great new castellated building of granite and marble (404 ft. long) which is occupied for the City Jail, near which are the dark and frowning walls of the Penitentiary. The Athenaeum is at the corner of St. Paul and Saratoga Sts., and contains the Mercantile Library and Reading-Rooms (35,000 volumes ; open from 10 a. m. until 10 P. M.), the Baltimore Library (15,000 vol- umes), and the halls of the Maryland Historical Society (2d story). The latter society has a library of 10,000 volumes; a collection of curiosities, among which is Pulaski's faded banner (see page 302); and numerous casts and paintings, among which are portraits of George Peabody, Lord Baltimore, and 18 eminent soldiers and statesmen of Maryland. In the picture-gallery are held exhibitions of American paintings. The new * Masonic Temple is an imposing structure (on Charles St., near Saratoga St.), which was dedicated in 1870, and cost $400,000. The main hall is much used for concerts and lectures. Above the Temple is St. Paul's Church, the seat of the Episcopal Bishop of Maryland. It is on the corner of Saratoga and Charles Sts., and overlooks the Old Town. The architecture is Norman, with an interior adorned with memorial tablets, a timber roof, and a fine brass lectern, and resembling the old basilicas. It occupies the site of an older church of the same name and sect, which was founded by the provincial authorities in 1731. To the W. (corner of Saratoga and Park Sts.) is the tall church of St. A Iphonsics, held by the German Catliolics. The * Cathedral is an imposing structure of granite, situated at the corner of Cathedral and Mulberry Sts. It is 166 ft. long and 115 ft. broad in the transepts, and is surmounted by a dome 127 ft. high. The interior contains one of the largest organs in America (600 pipes and 36 stops), and 2 fine paintings, — The Descent from the Cross, presented by Louis XVI. of France (painted by Stubens) ; and St. Louis burying his Soldiers slain before Tunis, given. by Charles X. (painted by Paul Guerin). The massive front is flanked by graceful towers, and is adorned with a bold classic portico upheld by 8 Ionic columns. The building was commenced in 1806 and consecrated in 1821. Under the adjacent mansion of the Primate Archbishop are the crypts in which are buried the past archbishops of this diocese. BALTIMORE. Route 64. 399 The Academy of Sciences has recently taken possession of its new build- ing on Mulberry St. (opposite Cathedral St. ), and has on exhibition a fine museum of natural sciences. The fauna and flora of Maryland are thoroughly represented, and the mineralogical and ornithological collec- tions represent types from all lands. Beyond the Cathedral, at the corner of Charles and Franklin Sts., is the classic front of the First Unitarian Church, on whose pediment is a re- markable piece of statuary. This quaint structure is entered by 3 bronze doors. The Convent of the Visitation has a spacious pile of buildhigs at the corner of Park and Centre Sts. In advancing up Charles St., the Washington Monument is seen on the crest of the hill, with the Peabody Institute on the r. Fronting the monument is the elegant * Mount Vernon Church (Methodist), which is built of green serpentine from Delaware, trimmed with yellow Ohio stone, red Connecticut sandstone, and polished Scotch granite. The * Washington Monument is the pride of Baltimore, and is situ- ated on an eminence 100 ft. above tide, at the intersection of Mt. Vernon and Washington Places. From a base 50 ft. square and 20 ft. high, rises a Doric shaft of marble masonry to the height of 176^ ft., which is sur- mounted by a colossal statue of Washington 16 ft. high. The monument was built between 1815 and 1829, and cost $ 200,000. The ascent to the base of the statue is effected by 228 steps, leading up on a circular stair- way through the dark shell of the shaft (admission fee, 15c. ). The * view from the summit is broad and interesting, and includes the densely popu- lated streets of the city, with its spires and squares ; the harbor and ship- ping, with Forts McHenry and Carroll, and the Chesapeake Bay ; the dark hills of Anne Arundel ; and the villas and parks, asylums and cemeteries, on the suburban heights. The Monument stands at the central point of a cross which is formed by the intersection of Mount Vernon and Washing- ton Places, whose narrow and verdant lawns are flanked by fine mans.ions. The * Peabody Institute is near the Monument, and is a stately marble building, 115 ft. long. The Institute consists of the departments of literature, music, lectures, and art, and was designed by its munificent founder for the diffusion of knowledge among the masses. The library is free to all comers, and consists of 60,000 volumes, occupying a hall 100 ft. long. The lecture-hall is the finest in the city (except the new Masonic Hall), and is used by the highest class of lecturers (also by concerts of classic music). Cheap instruction is here given in music and singing by professors of skill and eminence. The Gallery of Art is not yet com- pleted ; but the lobby of the library contains a statue of Venus, a bust of Pocahontas, and a graceful * statue of Clytie, by Rinehart. There is a fine full-length portrait of Mr. Peabody in the upper corridor, near th.e library. 400 Rmte 64. BALTIMORE. George Peabody was born at S. Danvers (now called Peabody), Mass., in 1795. He bet-anie a grocery clei'k at 11 ; was then engaged in the dry-goods business in Newburyport, New Ynrk, and Baltiiiun-e, in succession ; and in 1843 became a banker in London. His gains were large, and his benefactions x>rincely. Among them were, S 10,000 to the Grinnell Arctic, expedition, !:; 30,000 to the Newbury- port Library; a memorial church at Georgetown, Mass. (to his mother's mem- ory); §'J0(),()00 to his native town; -SluO.OOO eacli to Harvard and Yale Col- leges ; * 1,400,000 for the Listitute at Baltimore ; § 2,000,000 to the Southern Edu- cational Fund ; and .s 2,500,000 to the ])0or of the city of London. He was offered tlie honors of knighthood ; received from Queen Victoria her i)ortrait set in diji- nionds ; was given the ireedom of the city of London ; and after his death (18G9) his remains were sent to America in funeral state on one of the finest vessels of the British navy. In this vicinity are several handsome churches. The First Presbj-terian (corner of Madison and Park Sts.) is a buikling of Albert freestone, in lancet Gothic architecture (the spire is to be 286 ft. high). The Emanuel Episcopal Church (comer of Reed and Cathedral Sts.) is a massive struc- ture of gray sandstone, and Grace Cliurch (corner of Monument and Park Sts. ) is a brown-stone building with a clere-story . Christ Church is a new and elegant marble temple of the Episcoi^alians, situated at the corner of St. Paul and Chase Sts. ; and still farther out (near the corner of Charles St. and North Ave. ) is the costly building of the Maryland Institution for the Instruction of the Blind. Beyond this point Charles St. runs on into the open country, traversing a picturesque region dotted with villas and parks. Tills road forms a pleasant drive as far as Lake Roland (6 M. distant). The * Exchange is a fine building 240 ft. long, with porticos of mon- olithic Ionic columns of Italian marble. It is on Gay St., between 2d and Lombanl Sts., and was built in 1820 (after Latrobe's designs) at a cost of $600,000. The structure is surmounted by a dome 115 ft. high and 53 ft. in diameter, which is brilliantly frescoed and overarches a spacious rotunda. The U. S. Custom House, the Post-Office, and other public institutions are located here. Near this point is Exchange Place, Avhere much of the wholesale trade is done; and the financial head-quarters are along South St. and 2d St. Farther S. is the Basin, lined with wharves and small vessels ; and the Corn Excluinge has a handsome hall between Pratt St. and the water. The Rialto Building is a fine Renais- sance structure at the corner of 2d and Holliday Sts ; and at the corner of Baltimore and South Sts. is the tall iron building of the Sim news- paper. To the E. (corner of Baltimore St. and Harrison) is the Mary- land Institute, a spacious brick building which dates from 1854, and is devoted to the advancement of the mechanic arts. The lower hall is occupied by the Centre Market (fine disj^lays of Maryland produce), and above are the library (20,000 volumes), schools of design, and the great hall, where industrial exhibitions are held in October of each year. The hall accommodates over 5,000 persons, and is historically interesting as the seat of the seceding Southern Democratic Convention of 1860, which nominated Breckinridge for the Presidency of the Republic. BALTIMORE. Rjuie64. 401 Beyond the Institute Baltimore St. crosses Jones' Falls, a small stream which rises about 20 M. distant, and flows down through a picturesque valley. In the rainy season it becomes turbulent and dangerous, and sometimes floods the lower part of the city, causing immense damage and loss of life. Beyond the Falls Baltimore St. leads, by the fine building of the 2d Presbyterian Church, to Broadway, a wide and beautiful street which nms S. to the Fell's Point Market and the harbor. The Eastern Fountain (a small park around a sprmg of fresh water) is on this side, and is much visited by the German citizens on summer even- ings. Baltimore St. continues on to Patterson Park, a pleasant public garden of 70 acres area, containing the remains of old earthworks erected for the defence of the city. The view from this park is broad and pleasant, including the dense lines of houses stretching down the valley of Jones' Falls, the monument-crowned heights beyond, the great copper- works in Canton, and a wide sweep of the Patapsco and the Bay. To the N. is an undidating rural country, on one of whose ridges is seen the Bay View Asylum, an imposing buildhig 714 ft. long and 3 stories high, situated in an ornamental i)ark of 48 acres, and overlooking the bay and city. It cost $1,000,000, required 7,000,000 bricks for the construction, and accommodates 800 paupers. The Odd Fellows' Monument is on Broadway, above Wildey St., and consists of an inscriljed base, a pedestal carved with emblems of the order, and a flutetl Doric column, which supports a statue of Charity protecting orphan children. This nioiuunent is a memorial to Thomas Wildey, the founder of the Independent Order of Odd Fellows iu America. April 26, 1819, Mr. Wildey. an obscure English mechanic, formed and instituted at Baltimore the Washington Lodge, No. 1, I. <>. O. F., the lirst lodge in AmcricA of that powerful order, which by 1865 numbered 427,000 members, and had raised .1527,000,000 for charitable works. Wildey trav- elled through all parts of the country founding new lodges, and died in 1801, " the lips of the .atherless and widow invoking blessings upon him." April 26, 1865, the city was made brilliant by the processions of an immense host oi Odd Fellows, who then met to dedicate the monument, and to renew the fraternal ties which had been broken by the Secession War. Jackson Sqxiare is near the monument, but is yet unimproved. It is on the crest of the ridge, and overiooks the Chesapeake. To the W. is the Church Home, a charitable institution under the care of the Episcopal Church. The old Maryland Hospital is on Monument St., E. of Broad- way (the site of the new Johns Hopkins Hospital); and the Hebrew Hospital is in the same vicinity. The Odd Fellows' Hull is on Gay St., and is a handsome Gothic build- ing with a square tower, containing a large library. The Church of the Messiah is at the corner of Gay and Fayette Sts. ; and at tlie corner of Fayette and Front Sts. is the Merchants' Shot Toiver, 246 ft. high and 20-40 ft. in^liameter. The masonry contains 1,100,000 bricks, and the 402 Route 64. BALTIMORE. top oscillates through 10 inches during heavy winds. Gay St. runs out by the Bellair Market, and })asses (at the intersection of Aisquith and Monument Sts.)the Wells and McComas Monument, a plain memorial in Ashland Square, erected over the remains of the young soldiers who shot Gen. Ross, the British commander (Sept. 12, 1812). The Hanover Market is a spacious building at the corner of Camden and Hanover Sts., beyond which (on Camden St. ) is the Camden Station of the Baltimore & Ohio R. R., with a front 308 ft. long, adorned with a steeple 185 ft. high. At the corner of Lombard and Greene Sts. are the old buildings of the School of Medicine of the University of Maryland (founded 1807 ; 8 professors and 170 students). The Medical School of the Washington University has 9 professors and 147 students ; and the College of Dental Surgery has I) professors and 69 students. At the corner of Greene a)id Fayette Sts. is the Westminster Presbyterian Church, in whose burying-ground is the neglected grave of Edgar Allan Foe (born at Baltimore in 1811, and died here in 1849). This erratic genius passed his short life in reckless misadventure, but achieved an un- fading fanie for the fantastic beauty and marvellous melody of his poems. Franklin Square is a pleasant public ground in the W. i)art of the city, on which fronts a Baptist Clmrch of white marlde; and the ornate iron building of Bethany Methodist Church is on the farther angle of the square, near the Gothic buildings of the Homes for Aged Men and Women. The Madison Ave. horse-cars, on their way to Druid Hill, pass near the tall marble spire of the Eutaw Place Baptist Church (designed by Walter); and at the corner of Druid Hill Ave. and Lanvale St. is the broad and im- posing marble church of St. Peter (Episcoi)al). St. Luke's is near Frank- lin Square, and has the richest stained-glass windows in the city (repre- senting the Messianic history). This society is Ritualistic in its position and ceremonies. The N. W. part of the city and the avenues leading toward Druid Hill are being rapidly occupied by fine residences. * Druid Hill Park is about \ M. N. of the city limits, and is reached by the Madison Ave. horse-cars. It covers about 680 acres, and has cost over $ 1,500,000. In 1860 the city bought the old Rogers estate (on this site), consisting of 500 acres, and adorned with groves and lawns which were laid out over a century ago. The chief attraction of the park is in its rich forest-scenery and picturesque diversity of surface ; and well- gi-aded roads and paths traverse the grounds in all directions. The trees are the grandest and oldest in any American park, and were skilfully arranged by the pre-Revolutionary landscape-gardener, so that the har- monies and contrasts of the colors of the foliage are very pleasing to the eye. Forest glades and dark gi-een vistas alternate with velvety lawns and breezy hills; and tlie immense tninks of the ancient oak and hickory trees rise like columns through the forests. Certain of tli« more promi- BALTIMORE. Route G/f. 403 nent of these trees have received significant names, as the Sentinels, the King of the Woods, the Seven Oaks, the Twin Beeches, and the Council Grove (a cluster of noble oaks under whose brandies the Indians formerly met in council). The horse-cars nm far into the park, and the entrance is through a handsome archway of dressed stone. There is but little artistic or ar- chitectural embellishment on the grounds, since such ornament has been considered superfluous in view of the other attractions. Some of the springs which flow freely near the drives have been adorned with marble work, and there are a few pieces of indifi"erent statuary. Near the centre is the old Rogers mansion, which is 326 ft. above the tide, and commands pleasant views. To the N. is a conical hill whence another and broader prospect is gained, the altitude being 366 ft. ; and still another favorite view-point is from the tower near Druid Lake. The city is seen, with its monuments and spires; the Patajtsco lies beyond ; and the Chesapeake Bay is overlooked as far down as Kent's Island and Annapolis. The High Service Reservoir is in the N. W. part of the park, and covers 9 acres, — furnishing a water-supply to the hills of Baltimore. Druid Lake is on the S., and is a natural basin with a water-surface of 55 acres, with 20-39 ft. of water, and a capacity of 600,000,000 gallons (217 ft. above tide). The water-supply of the city is drawn from Lake Rolandy an artificial reservoir 8 M. to the N. W., covering 116 acres, and retained by a stone dam 60 ft. thick and 40 ft. high. An oval brick aqueduct 5 M. long and 6 ft. higli leads to the Hampden and Mount Royal Reservoirs. * Greenmount Cemetery is about 2 M. N. of Baltimore St. (by York Road horse-cars), and covers 60 acres. It was founded in 1838, upon the former domain of Robert Oliver, and has cost $250,000. The landscape- gardening and embellishment have been done with much skill, and the grounds are carefully guarded (tickets of admission may be obtained at No. 1 Cortland St.). The entrance is an imposing piece of feudal archi- tecture, 80 ft. long, and surmounted with turrets. Opposite this point is the quaint and striking Gothic chapel, and the Mausoleum is a massive structure in Egyptian architecture. There are some choice pieces of sculpture here, chief among which are Rineliart's fine Avorks, " Immor- tality " and " The Sleeping Children." The symbolic statues of " Hope " and "Resignation" are also much admired. The grave of Major Ring- gold (a veteran of the Mexican War) is fenced in by Mexican gun-barrels. The McDonogh Monument is adorned by a portrait-statue (^ larger than life) of John McDonogh, an eccentric gentleman who was born at Balti- more in 1778, and removed to New Orleans in 1800, where he died in 1850. His immense fortune was bequeathed to the cities of New Orleans and Baltimore, and to the American Colonization Society. The monu- ment was erected by the municipality of Baltimore. 404 Route 61 BALTIMORK The * Loudon Park Cemetery is 2^ - 3 M. from the centre of the city (Franklin Scjuare and Ellicott City cars), and covers 100 acres. The grounds are picturesquely diversified, and from the hills pleasant views of the city and bay are gained. The * Fitzgerald mausoleum is adorned with statues of " The Redeemer" and " The Angel of the Resurrection," and with finely sculptured vases (all by Rinehart). The entrance t6 Loudon Park is through an imposing gateway, which resembles a tri- umphal arch. The Baltimore Cemetery is a large and well-arranged ground occupying the heights N. E. of the city (reached by Gay St. horse-cars). Federal Hill is S. of the centre of the city, and is a prominent land- mark over the Bay and Basin. The views from the summit are very* interesting, including the city and the adjacent waters. After Gen. Biitler's night-march and occupation of this hill, it Avas fortified by Duryea's Zouaves, to guard the city against her foes (whether foreign or domestic). Fort McHenry is about 3 M. from the City Hall, on Whetstone Point, and commands the harbor. It is a star-work of the old style (built in 1794), and has a moderate armament. The sentinels will usually admit visitors, and pleasant vieAvs of the harbor ai-e alTorded from the ramparts. 4 M. below, and commanding the Patapsco, is the artificial island which sustains the costly and powerful Fort Carroll (not yet completed), Avith its heavy artillery. Just above Fort McHenry is Locust Point, where are the docks of the European steamers and the immense elevators and freight-depots of tlie Bait. & Ohio R. R., whence the grain and coal shipments are made. Fort McHenry and Locust Point are reached by the S. Baltimore horse-cars, whicli run S. from the corner of Baltimore and Hanover Sts, The Maryland Hosinta.l for the Insane occupies an estate of 136 acres 6 M. from the city, near the suburb of Catonsville. Since 1852 the State has appropriated over .$400,000 to this work, and a massive pile of build- ings has been erected on the far-viewing heights. It is 500 ft. long, and accommodates 300 patients, the walls being of heavy granite masonry. The Sh^ppard Asylum for the Insane is 7 M. from the city, near Towson- town, and was endow^ed by Moses Sheppard, a Avealthy Quaker, who left $ 600,000 for the purpose. The Mount Hope Hospital for tlie Insane is 4 M. distant, on the Reisterstown road, and is an immense brick building situated amid ornamental grounds. It cares for 500 patients, and is managed by ^the Sisters of Charity, who also superintend the Mount Hope Asylum, at the corner of North Ave. and Bolton St. St. Mary's Industrial School for Boys is 2 M. S. W. of the city, and is an immense stone building Avhich accommodates 400 boys. The Johns Hopkins Hos- pital is being raised on the site of the old Maryland Hospital, and will be, perhaps, the finest in America. The endowment is immense, being BALTIMORE. Route 64. 405 stated as over $2,000,000. Mr. Hopkins died in 1874, bequeathing also his estate of Clifton (near the city) and an endowment of $2,000,000 with which to found a University there. It opens in Oct., 1876. The lirst settler on the site of Baltimore was David Jones, m 1682 ; and in 1730 the town was laid out, and was named ui honor of Ceeilius Calvert, Lord Balti- more, the proprietary of Maryland, —who derived his title from the obscure ma- rine liamlet of Baltimore, on the Irish (Munster) coast. The new settlement was imperilled by the advance of the Western Indians in 1755, and its women and childreJJ were put on the vessel-; in the liarbor, ready to flee down the Bay. In 1756 a colony of exiled French families from Acadia settled here and erected the first Catholic chapel. (It is generally supposed that Baltimore is a Catholic city, but such is not the case. It was founded by Episcopalians and Friends, and a considerable nugority of the citizens are Protestants or secularists.) In 1768 the county-seat was fixed liere ; in 1773 the Maryland Journal and Baltiiuore Adver- tiser was founded ; an ; EUicott City, 15 ; Elysville, 20 ; Woodstock, 25 ; Maniotsville, 27; Sykesville, 32; Mount Airy, 43; Monrovia, 50; Frederick Junction, 58 (Frederick, 62); Point of Rocks, 69 (Metropolitan Branch, to Washington, 112 M. from Baltimore); Berlin, 75; Hagerstown Junction, 70; Sandy Hook, 80 ; Har- per's Ferry, 81 ; Dufficld's, 87 ; Kearncysville, 02 ; Vanclievesville, 95 ; Martinsburg, 100; North Mrings House), a famous old sum- mer resort of the Virginians. The springs are 2| M . S. of the railroad, and are 4 in number, flowing from the forest-covered sides of the Warm Springs Ridge. They flow 1,200 gallons a minute, and are chiefly used for hathing, the temperature being 7-1". The Gentlemen's Spring is provided •with a pavilion and lounging-room ; and the Ladies' Spring is similarly embellished. There are numerous private baths, shower and spout baths, and large swimming-batlis for ladies and gentlemen. The waters are held to be beneflcial in cases of neuralgia and general debility; and the high, cool mountain-air is also famed for its salubrity. There are hotel accom- modations for 700 guests. The Berkeley Springs was the first summer resort which was opened in the South. They were on the immense domain of Thomas, Lord Fairfax, who re- served to himself the source still known as "Lord Fairfax's Spring," and granted the others to the province of Virginia. In 1755 the ill-fated army of Gen. Brad- dock (see page 353) passed near this place, and Sir John's Rmi still commem- orates Sir John St. Clair, an officer of the vanguard. The province laid out the town of Bath in 1776. and Gen. Washington, Gen. Gates, Charles Carroll of Car- rollton, and many others of the colonial gentry, had cottages here, where they spent poi'tions of the summer in Ibrest-sports and bathing. Horse-racing, card- jilaying, and the old stately dances were in vogue ; and at a certain hour, which was announceil by the blowing of a horn, the gentlemen retired and allowed the ladies the privileges of the foliage-shaded bathing-pool. Hither came the Baron and Baroness de Riedesel in 1780, —he to recover his health , which was shat- tered in the Saratoga campaign. In 178l> James Ramsey earned enough money at the baths to build his steainboat, perhaps the first in the world, which was launched at the mouth of Sir John's Run (or at Shepherdstown, a few miles be- low), and successfully ascended the rapid Potomac. Beyond Sir John's Run the line enters the mts. of the great Alleghany! range, near the Cacapon Mts., with the prominent peak of Round Top plainly in view. In 4 M. the great Cacapon River is ci'ossed, and after following the curves of the picturesque upper Potomac and ascending massive galleries on the sides of the ridges, the train traverses the Doe Gully Tunnel, which is 1,200 ft. long and pierces a mt. 1,700 ft. high. Fine rugged scenery is passed on either side as the line is followed to the Paxo Paw Tunnel. Crossing the Little Cacapon Creek and the South Fork of the Potomac, the broad intervales opposite Old Town are traversed, and in the advance are seen the mts. which surround Cumberland. Be- yond the Green Spring Tunnel, the tall clifi"s called Kelley's Rocks are passed, and the picturesque rock-scenery about Patterson's Creek. The train now crosses the Potomac on a bridge 700 ft. long, and enters Mary- land in the mt.-county of Alleghany. When Maryland was debating whether to secede or not (in 1S61), this patriotic county sent its delegates 1 This chain of mts. (with the similarly named river and adjacent towns and couiities) is called " Alk-Kanv ' in its New York portion, "Allegheny • m Pennsylvania, and Alle- ghany" in Mkrvland and the South. A uniform method of spellm? this name is desirable ; but t'li.' Editor has adhered to the various local forms of spelhng, beheving it his duty to report things as they are, rather than as they should be. 412 Eo2ite65. CUMBERLAND. to the Convention with the instructions that if they voted for secession they sliould be hung on their return. Cumberland (* Queen City Hotel, at the station), the second city of Maryland, is finely situated in a basin of the mts., with Will's Mt. on the W., and the Nobleys on the S., beyond which is the lofty ridge of Dan's Mt. There are over 8,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches and 3 newspapers; and the public buildings of Cumberland County are located here. The great rolling-mills where the Bait. & Ohio company makes its steel rails form an important feature of the city; and the country-trade is ex- tensive and lucrative. The Chesapeake & Ohio Canal terminates at this point, and is mainly used in the transportation of coal from the great mines in the vicinity. During the year 1873, 779,412 tons of semi-bitii- minous coal were sent to Georgetown, D. C, over the canal, and 1,794,200 tons were sent East by the railroad, making a total of 2,573,618 tons shipped from Cumberland during the year. The scenery in this vicinity attracts summer visitors, who generally stop at the great Queen City Hotel (an appanage of the railroad company). 1 M. W. is the deep gorge called " The Narroii's," where Will's Creek has cloven its way through the escarped and palisaded sandstone strata of Will's Mt. Tlirough this water-gap runs the old National Road and the track of the Pittsburgh, Washington k Baltimore R. R. (see page 3C4). The Cumberland & Pennsylvania R. li. runs from Cumberland through the great coal-region to the W. Frostburg is a i>lace of about 5,000 inliabitunts, 1 ,400 ft. above Cumberland, and is ajiproiiched by tracks in the form of a succession of Ys. This lofty and prosperous town is undermined in every direction by ex- hausted coal-shafts, and the railroad passes under it iu a dark'tunnel. Running thence S. W. , tlie line follows the narrow carboniferous valley of George's Creek, by several villages of miners, and soon reaches Piedmont, 34 M. from Cumber- land (time of transit, 3 lirs.). The main line runs S. W. from Cumberland up the narrow valley of the Potomac, between the Nobley Mts. (on the 1.) and Will's and Dan's Mts. (on the r.). The ridges on either side furnish varied views, and beyond the rich glen of Black Oak Bottom the train crosses the Potomac on a costly bridge of stone and iron. Piedmont is the seat of large rail- road repair-shops, and is at the confluence of the Potomac (North Branch) and George's Creek, At this point begins the ascent of the Alleghany Mts., and for 17 M. the train climbs an average gradient of 117 ft. to the M., propelled by 2 engines. On the r., beyond the deep ravine of Savage River, are the Savage Mts ; and near Crabtree Creek the line sweeps in broad curves around the main Alleghany ridge. The scenery on this section is majestic and imposing, and the lofty peaks are shown in new combinations as the train clambers along its lofty galleries and bends oa long curving grades. Altamont is on the summit, and is 2,720 ft. above the sea. The line now enters The Glades, a series of rich alluvial meadows lying along the Youghiogheny River and on the great Alleghany plateau. CHEAT RIVER VALLEY. Route 65. 413 3 M. from Altamont is the station at the * Deer Park Hotel ($3.50 a day; .*ip20 a week; $75 a month), a first-class summer resort imder the management of the raih'oad company. It is 2,800 ft. above the sea, and is visited for the sake of the pm-e cool air, and for the romantic and sublime scenery along the Glades and on the mts. The hotel has 150 rooms, furnished with gas and water, and employs an orchestra in sum- mei'. The thermometer in summer ranges from 58' to 76' Fahrenheit, and the air is crisp and sparkling. 6 M. beyond Deer Park the train passes the village of Oakland, with another large wayside summer-house, called the * Glades Hotel (a favorite resort for Baltimoreans). The trouting in the highland streams affords much sport, and game is still found in the forests. A highway runs N. from Oakland, down the pleasant valley of the Maryland Glades, and by the Youghiogheny River, to the remote hamlet of Friendsville. 6 M. beyond Oakland the train enters W. Virginia, and traverses a region which is tilled with striking scenery. Embankments, tunjiels, and deep gorges succeed each other, and at 11 M. beyond Cranberry Summit the line reaches Rowleshurg. The famous * Cheat River Valley is now crossed, with beautiful views on either side. • Here the chocolate-colored Cheat River, uniting with the Tray Run, descends through a valley between bold and imposing mts., and is lined with dark forests. The railroad crosses on a high grade, bridging the river and rushing along the slopes on narrow yet massively built galleries. The attention and admiration of the traveller is divided between the charms of the natural scenery and the daring skill of the engineering works over which the train passes. "This scenery has a character of grandeur of its own, and, in the wonderful varieties of forest and lawn, of river and nit., of nature in her savage wildness and nature in lier loveliest forms, presents a series of pictures Avhich no well- educated American should leave uuvisited. We cross the Atlantic in quest of attractive scenes, and, lo ! we leave at home, alongside of the great central iron pathway, views that excel anything that can be seen among tlie mts. of Scotland or in the passes of the Appenines." (George Bancroft.) Beyond Cassidy's Ridge the train passes through the great Kingwood Tunnel, which is i,100 ft. long and cost $1,000,000. It took 3,000 men 2 years and 8 montlis to n)ake this tunnel. A long descent now follows, the Murray Tunnel (250 ft.; through sandstone) is passed, and beyond the hamlet of Newburg (on the intervales of Otter Creek) the train follows the narrow valley to Grafton (large hotel at the station). This village has about 2,000 inhabitants, and is picturesquely situated on the Tygart's Valley River. About 20 M. up Tygart's Valley (12 M. from Webster) is Philippi, which was occupied by the Confederate forces sent for the subjugation of W. Virginia in 1861. June 3, 1861, these troops (numbering 1,500 men) were attacked by the 1st Va. (Union) and 2 Western regiments, and were totally routed. 414 Route G5. PARKERSBURG. The Parkershxirg Division runs W. from Grafton to Parkersburg in 104 M., traversing the picturesque mts. of W. Virginia and passing several small forest-hamlets. Among these rugged highlands the institution of slavery obtained but a slender foothold, and in 1860 the 4 counties be- tween Grafton and Parkersburg had 35,256 freemen, and only 830 slaves. When the Virginians voted (in 1861) as to whether their State should stand by the Union or secede, the moimtain-counties were loyal bj^ large majorities; aiid when the State took up arms against the Republic, this patriotic section was formed into the new State of West Virginia (with the motto, " Montani semjjer liberi "). The first station of any note is Clarkshirg, the capital of Harrison County, a village of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, situated on fi hill-enviroiied plain near the W. Fork of the Monongaliela River. Petroleum station is in the oil-district of W. Virginia, and a branch track leads N. from Laurel Fork Jimction to Volcano, the chief place in tliat district. In this vi-, cinity is obtained a heavy dark-green oil wliich is extensively used in] lubricating fixed machinery, locomotives, and cars. This valuable petro- leum is pumped up from the natural rock-reservoirs far below in the! earth, and is kept in large tanks (seen near the line). The deep ravines] and rugged hills of this region are occupied by thousands of tall derricks, most of which have long been deserted. At Claysville the train reaches the Little Kanawha River, whose course is followed to the N. W. to Parkersburg {Swann House), the capital of Wood Coimty, a city of 5,546 inhabitants, engaged in the petroleum trade. The train here crosses the Ohio River on a noble bridge which was erected in 1869-71, at a cost of over !$ 1,000,000. It is IJ M. long, with 6 spans over the river and 43 approaching spans. Tlie line connects at Belpre with the Marietta & Cincinnati R. R. for the West. The Wlieeling train runs N. W. from Grafton down the TygarVs Valley, ivith a variety of picturesque scenery. Fairmont is a pretty village, with about 600 inhabitants and 2 churches, situated near the confluence of the Monongaliela River and Tj^gart's Valley River. A fine suspension-bridge crosses the river to the hamlet of Palatine. Fairmont is the capital of the forest-county of Marion, and is at the head of steamboat navigation on the Monongahela. The line now crosses the hill-country of Wetzel County, and beyond Littleton it enters the Pan-Handle of W. Virginia. Moundsville is finely situated on the fertile intervales of the Ohio River at the mouth of Grave Creek, and is near the village of Elizabethtoivn, the capital of Marshall County. Between the villages is the Mammoth Mound, a relic of the prehistoric inhabitants of Amei'ica. It is 80 ft. high and 200 ft. broad, and towers over the fertile intervales. The train now runs over level lowlands for several miles, and alter an interlude of WHEELING. Route GG. 415 rocky narrows, advances by tlie Ohio River to Benivood (where connec- tions are made with the Central Ohio Division of the B. & 0. R. R.) and Wlit-eling. Wheeling {McClure House) is the capital of W. Virginia, and is situ- ated on the Ohio River at the influx of Wheeling Creek. It has 19,280 in- liabitants, with 21 clmrches, 4 banks, and 5 newspapers, and is the seat of the University of W. Virginia, a State institution witli 10 professors and 154 students. The manufacturing interests are profitable and exten- sive, and are served by an easily available water-power and immense sup- plies of coal in the adjacent hills. The National Road crosses the Ohio here (over Zane's Island) by a graceful wire suspension-bridge, whose span is 1,010 ft. long, with towers 153 ft. above the river ; and the railroad bridge (below the city) is one of the finest in the country. With the ap- proaches, it is If M. long, including a viaduct of 43 spans in the city of Bellaire. Wheeling is finely situated on a narrow alluvial plain which is overlooked hy rugged hills, and has a large commerce on the Ohio River. The 40 mountain counties of Virginia had long been at odds with the rest of the State by reason of unequal taxation and otlier inijust discriniiuations. When Virginia seceded from the Union (in 1S61) t'lese counties established themselves into the State of W. Virginia, and testified the patriotism of the new member of the Republic by giving to its armies 26,540 men out of 33,774 enrolled male citizens. The Hempfield R. R. runs N. E. to Washington, Pa., in 32 M. (see page 363) ; the River Division of the Cleveland & Pittsburgh R. R. runs (from Bridgeport) to Pittsburgh in nS M.. and to Cleveland in 13S M. ; and the Central Ohio & Lake Erie Divisions of the Bait, k, Ohio R. R. run (from Bellaire) to Columbus in 137 M., and to Sandusky in 220 M. 66. Baltimore to Washington. Bv the Baltimore & Ohio R. R. (Washington Branch) in 1 - 2 hrs. Stations. — Baltimore (Camden station); Carroll Switch, 2 M. ; Camden Junction, 4; Washington Junction, 9; Elk Ridge, 10; Hanover, 12.^; Dor ey's, 15; Jessup's, 17; Annapolis Junction, 19V; Savage, 21; Laurel, 23; White Oak, 25 ; Beltsville, 28 ; Paint Branch, 31J ; Bladensburg, 34 ; Metropolitan Junction, 39; Washington, 40. The train moves out from the Camden station, and runs S. W. through the en- virons oi Baltimore. Baltimore to Washington Junction, see page 406. Tlie deep valley of the Patapsco River is now crossed on the famous * Washington Viaduct, a splendid piece of masonry whose arches rest on 7 high piers. The views on either side are broad and pleasant, espe- cially on the 1., where the valley widens. The scenery in this vicinity, and the exigencies of railroad travel, have given reason for the erection of the fine hotel on the E. side of the river. The train now traverses the hilly region on the borders of Howard County, with the peculiar clayey soil of the country exhibited in the deep cuts and gullied knolls. Elk Ridge Landing i% an iron manufacturing village on the Patapsco; and Hanover (locally famous for its camp-meetings) is near the iron-mines which supply the Avalon Furnaces. 416 Route 66. ANNAPOLIS. At Annapolis Junction (2 hotels) the Annapolis & Elk Ridge R. R. diverges to the S. E. and runs for 21 M. across Anne Arundel County, intersecting the Bait, k Potomac R. R. at Odenton. Trains run from Baltimore to Annapolis in 1^-2 hrs. Annapolis {Maryland House), the capital of the State of Maryland, is a quaint old city of 5,744 inhabitants, pleasantly situated on the S. bank of the Severn River, 2 M. from Chesapeake Bay. It derives considerable local importance from its relations to the State, while it has a national interest from the fact that it is the site of the training-school for the officers of the republican fleets. The State House is situated on an ele- vation in the centre of the city, enclosed by a circular granite wall, and is entered from Frances St. It is built mainly of brick, and is surmounted by a dome nearly 200 ft. high. The hall beyond the main entrance is under the dome, whose interior work is seen thence. On the r. is the Senate Chamber, memorable in American history as the place where Con- gress ratified the Treaty of 1783 (acknowledging the national independence), and also where Washington resigned his conmiand of the army. Here are full-length portraits of Charles Carroll (by Sully), Chase, Paca, and Stone, the Maryland signers of the Declaration of Independence ; and of Howard, "the hero of the Cowpens" (by Sully) ; also a fine painting of Washington resigning his commission to Congress. In the adjacent Com- mittee Room is a singular painting by C. W. Peale, representing Lord Chatham in the costume of a Roman senator. The Chamber of the House of Delegates is opposite the Senate Chamber, and has galleries for visitors. The State Library is at the end of the hall under the dome, and has over 20,000 volumes. On the second floor is the Executive Department and the Court of Appeals (wherein hangs a large pictui-e of Washington and Lafayette reviewing the army, by Peale). Another stairway leads to the platform of the dome (130 ft. high), whence a broad view is gained, in- cluding the city, the pleasant hills of Anne Arundel, the Severn, and the broad Chesapeake, and the remote line of the Eastern Shore. The State House was built in 1772, and the dome (of wood) was added after the Revolution. The Treasury is a venerable building in the circle near the State House, and is famo\is for having been the legislative hall of the old Provincial Assembly. The Record Office is N. E. of the Treasury, and contains the archives of Maryland, On the N. E. of the hill is an ancient cannon which was brought to the province by Lord Baltimore about 1633. St. John's College occupies a range of buildings between Prince George St. and the Severn River, and has 12 instructors and 181 students. In 1744 Gov. Bladen began the erection of a costly gubematorial mansion on the site of St. John's College. European architects provided with almost nn- liniited resources had nearly completed the house; when Bladen quarrelled with the Assembly, which thereupon cut off its appropriations. In 1784 the Assembly founded St. John's College, and located it in the ruined building (which wai ANNAPOLIS. Route 66. 417 \}}^7^^ ^3 "t^^ Governor's Folly "). It also received the endowments of "Kin^ Wilham s School, which was founded at Annapolis in 1696. But the colle<^e was dc])endent, and languished whenever the State subsidies were withheld ° The CoUese Green Avas the camp-ground of the French forces in the Revolution the Maryland militia in the War of 1812, and the national troops in the Civil War' E of the college is an ancient poplar-tree, which probably antedates the city and is much venerated by the Annapolitans. ' St. Anne's Church (Episcopal) is on the Clmrch Circle (6-700 ft. W. of the State House), and is a stately edifice, with colonnades of stone sep- arating the nave and aisles, and an altar of carved stone. The bell (now destroyed) of tliis church was given by Queen Anne, and tlie 7 vessels of the communion service (still in use) were presented by, and bear the monogram and arms of. King William III. The church is the third St. Anne's which has occupied this site, the first having been built in 1696. St, Mary's Church (Catholic) is on the Duke of Gloucester St., on land given by Charles Carroll of Carrollton, and adjoins St. Mary's College and Convent. Candidates for the missionary clergy of the Redemptionist Order study 6 years at St. James College (Baltimore), 2-4 years at St. Mary's (Annapolis), and 5 years at St. Clement's College (Ilchester, Md. ), returning to Annapolis for a final practical course. The Government House is a costly new mansion W. of the State House, used for the resi- dence of the Governor. There are many quaint old houses in the city which date from 1740-60 and were built of imported brick. The * U. S. Naval Academy is the national school for the education of midshipmen and their preparation for the higher commands in the navy. The course of study covers 4 years, and is varied by cruising in the school-ships. This school was founded in 1845, and was transferred to Newport, R. I., during the Civil War (May, 1861 -Sept., 1865). The buildings were occupied by the army during that period, and at the close of the rebellion the naval cadets returned. The grounds cover 114 acres, and are fronted by a sea-wall along the Severn River. The new Midship- men's Quarters accommodate 200 cadets, and are crowned by a dome which commands a broad marine view. The Officers' Quarters, Gunnery Build- ing, Observatory, Hospital, and Mess Hall are commodious structures. The Department of Steam Enginery is at the foot of the main avenue, and contains bright models and large engines of steam-frigates. In front is a fountain surmounted hy a statue of Neptune, and a portal formed of can- non captured on the Confiance (War of 1812). The Chapel contains sev- eral memorial tablets, and on the grounds are 3 monuments, — to midshij)- men killed at Vera Cruz in 1847, — to Lieut. Herndon, lost on the Central America, —and to tlie soldiers of the fleet who fell in the Tripolitan War (in 1804). The latter monument was erected at Washington in 1808, was mutilated by the British in 1814, and was removed to Annapolis in 1860. The old Government House of Maryland, erected before the Revolution, was bought by the U. S. in 1869, and is now used for the library (15,000 18* AA 418 Route 66. ANNAPOLIS. volumes) and reading-room. In this building are large and valuable col- lections of birds, shells, minerals, coins, etc., with trophies, flags, and other curiosities. There are many busts of eminent men, and casts of celebrated antique statuary ; also several rude but spirited paintings of battles at sea, and portraits of the great naval chiefs, Stewart, Farragut, Paul Jones, M. C. Perry (Japan expedition), 0. H. Perry (Battle of Lake Erie), Decatur, Hopkins, Rodgers, Preble, McDonough, Biddle, and David Porter. The Academy has a fine band and a marine guard, ball and boat clubs, and a gymnasium on the walls of old Fort Severn. A dress-parade of the battalion occurs every evening (unless stormy), and many visitors attend the imposing ceremonial. The dress-balls given here during the winter (especially on Feb. 22) attract hundreds of the patrician damsel^ of Baltimore and Washington. Tlie Academy is situated in finely adorned grounds, adorned with trees and shrubbery and ancient trophy-cannon. The remains of old Fort Severn are near the river, and there are usually two or three vessels of the fleet moored off" Severn Park. On St. Cecilia's Day, 1633, the Catholic pilgrims set sail from England, "having placed our ship under the i)rotection of God, the Blessed Virgin Mother, St. Igna- tius, and all tlie guardian angels of Maryland." In due time they reached land at St. Mary's, near the Potomac River, and founded tliere the capital of tlie pro- spective province. In 1648 Episcopal Virginia began to persecute her Puritan citizens, and in 1649 the afflicted church moved to Providence (the present site of Annapolis). The Catholic Governor Stone soon advanced by sea from St* Mary's against the new colony, but was defeated and captured after a fierce fight, in which 50 of his men were killed. The Puritan battle-cry was, " In the name of God, fall on. God Is our strength "; and the Marylanders shouted, " Hey for St. Mary's." In 1694 the Puritan village became the provincial capital ; and in 1695 it was named Annapolis, in honor of Queen Ainie. In 1745 the Maryland Gazette was established ; in 1752 a theatre was opened (the first in America) ; in 1774 the citizens burned the British brig Peggij, with her cargo of tea ; in 1776 tlie royal governor, Eden, was forced to fly. and the "glorious old Maryland Line" began to gather here. About 1795 the city began to decline in relative importance. At the outbreak of the Secession War the city was occupied by rebels, who were arranging for an attack on the Naval Academy and the frigate Constitution. April 21 the 8th Mass. regiment arrived here (by water), and rescued the im- perilled national property; occupied the city; ignored the petty and impertinent sectionalisni of the Maryland governor; and marched to Annapolis Junction, rebuilding the demolished railroad, and attended by the 7th New York Regi- ment. Tliereafter, until the redemption of Baltimore, the troops advancing to the defence of the national capital passed through Auuapolis. 'ReYowdi Anncqjolis Junction the train cro.sses in -succession the Little Patuxent and Big Patuxent Rivers, and approaches Laurel (Laurel Hotel), a thrifty and growing village of about 1,200 inhabitants, situated \ M. N. of the line. It has busy iron-works and cotton-mills, and is situated in a district which abounds in peaches. The railroad was cut at this point by a daring band of Southern cavalry during the summer of 1864, Muirkirk has iron-works which draw their supplies from the rich ore-beds in the vicinity: and the stately granite building of the Agricultural College of Maryland is seen from Paint Branch (College) station, crowning a line of heights on the r. PORT TOBACCO. Route 67. 419 "A series of grassy hills, with sandy creeks at their passes; then Bladensbiirg, an angular stretch of old, gable-chimneyed, bent-roofed houses, ^ M. from the railroad ; then a line of red -clay breastworks, worming up to the hill-tops, where stand dismantled forts ; then an octagonal building with a cupola on it, — the home and foundry of Clark Mills, sculptor; then the uneasy outlying landscapes of a city, — culverts planted nowhere, streets graded to no place, brick-kilns and pits, a cemetery, frame shanties on goose pastures disputed by cows made sullen by over-milking; boys, babies, friendless dogs, and negro women * toting ' great bundles on their heads ; no more fence, the smell of apparent garbage and ash-heaps ; signs of ground-rents and dirt-throwing invitations ; and all this time you are descending into basin- land and doAvn the valley of a bare creek; at last a dome, such majesty and white- ness as you never saw elsewhere, appears sailing past the clouds, — the Capitol!" (George Alfred Townsend.) Washington, see page 420. 67. Baltimore to Washington. By the Bait. & Potomac R. R. in 1^-2 hrs. Stations. — Baltimore ; N. Central Jnnction, 2 M.; Lafayette, 3 ; Winans, 9; Stony Run, 11 ; Severn, 15; Odenton, 18; Patuxent, 21; Bowie, 26 (branch to Marlboro', 40; Pope's Creek, 75); Seabrook, 30; Wilson's, 34; Benning's, 38 ; Navy Yard, 41 ; Washington, 43 (Richmond, 156). The train leaves the Calvert Station, in Baltimore, and passes through the great tunnels beneath the city, traversing the rural environs, and passing the divergence of the N. Central R. R. The train now diverges to the S., and crosses the broad Patapsco River. At Odenton it intersects the Annapolis & Elk Ridge R. R., on which trains run 15 M. S. E. to Annapolis, the capital of Maryland (see page 416). The line next trav- erses the fertile hills of Anne Arundel County, whose chief products are corn and tobacco. The county was named for Lady Anne Arundel, who married Lord Baltimore, and in 1860 had 16,568 free citizens and 7,332 slaves. Beyond the Patuxent the line enters Prince George County, which, in 1850, produced more tobacco than any other county in the Union (8,380,851 pounds), and is still famous for that staple. From Bowie the Pope-s Creek Branch diverges to the S., and runs for 49 M. through the rural districts of Prince George and Charles Counties. La Plata station is near Port Tobacco, the capital of Charles County, and a garrisoned post during the Secession War. The terminus of the branch line is at Popes Creek, fronting the wide waters of the lower Potomac. Beyond Bowie the Washington train passes on to the shores of the Eastern Branch of the Potomac, which is pressed on a long trestle-bridge. Pleasant views are afforded of tlie broad river and its hilly banks. The Washington Tunnel is a costly and massively built structure of masonry, 420 Routes OS, 69. WASHINGTON. 1,500 ft. long; and as the train emerges from its depths, the white dome of the Capitol is seen on the r. The terminal station is on 6th St., near Pennsylvania Ave. 68. New York to Washington. The new route bj' the Limited Express trains affords the most speedy and luxurious mode of passing from the metropolis to the national capi- tal. The train is composed entirely of Pullman cars, and runs through without change in 6 hrs. and 40 minutes. The fares are, New York to Philadelphia, .$4.25; to Baltimore, $8.50 ; to Washington $10 (Pullman- car fares included). The train leaves New York at 9.30 A. M. (3| hrs. after the arrival of the night express from Boston), and arrives at Washington at 4.03 P. M. (cit*y time). The route between New York and Philadelphia is described on pages 254-262; between Philadelphia and Baltimore, on pages 386-394; between Baltimore and Washington, on pages 419, 420. The Limited Express stops en route at Newark, Elizabeth, New Brunswick, Trenton, Germantown Junction, W. Philadelphia, Wilmington, and Baltimore. 69. Washington. Hotels. — *The Arlington, a large and imposing hnilding near the Treasury, accommodating 325 guests and charging $5 a day; * "Willard's, corner of Penn. Ave. and 14th St., accommodating 400 guests (?j4.50 a day); the ♦Metropoli- tan, Peim. Aa'C., near 6th St., 300 guests (.:!4 a day); the *Ebbitt, corner of P and 14th Sts., 300 guests, a favorite resort for officers of the army and navy ; the * National, corner of Penn. Ave. and 6th St. , a famous old hotel, acconnnodating 400 guests ($4 a day), Wormley's, on 15th St. ; the Imperial, on E St., near Penn. Ave. and 14tli St. ; the Wasliington. corner of Penn. Ave. and 3d St. ; the Con- tinental, Penn. Ave., near 3d St. ; tlie St. Marc, Penn. Ave. and 7tli St. (Euro- pean plan); tlie Globe, corner of F and 12th Sts. : the Milliken, E and lOlh Sts. ; the St. James (Eui-opean), near the Bait. & Potomac station ; the Trcmont (» 2.50 a day), near the Bait. & Ohio station. The Union Hotel is eligibly situated in Georgetown (corner of Bridge and Washington Sts.). Boarding-houses are found in all parts of the city, and with widely varying ])rices. Kestauraiits. — * Welckcr's, on 15th St. near H, is famous for its costly dinners and rich wines ; * Wormley's (loth and H Sts. ) is a quiet and aristocratic resort ; the * St. George (F St. , near 9th) is much fre(iuented by ladies, and tickets are sold at a large discount ; Harvey (corner of Penn. Ave. and 11th St. ) lias oys- ters in every sliajie ; Russell & Leonard's (0th St. & Penn. Ave.) is elegant and rich ; the National (Penn. Ave. and 6th St.) is a good lunch-saloon. Freund's is in the Capitol, and is much frequented by Congressmen ; and there is a large restaurant in tlie Treasury Department. ' The hotels on tlie European plan are provided with dining-rooms wliere meals are served d la carte ; and table- board may be secured at the better class of boarding-houses for $30-35 a month. lieadiiig- Rooms are found in the Larger hotels. The * Library of Congress is open from 10 a. m. to 4 p. m., and visitors can there examine the largest collec- tion of books in America. The library and reading-rooms of the Young Men's Christian Association are open to all visitors from 9 a. m. until 10 p m. Tlie offices of the Washington correspondents of the chief American newspapers are on News- paper Row and near the corner of 14th and F Sts. Though not open as public RJi. STATIONS. "2. National . 67. Bait. & Potomac. . . .E. 4"- ffj^''.- • • 68. Bait. & Ohio E.F. 4, 7+ ^^l^:\l . 76. Tremon;. HOTELS. 09. A rli ronton 70. Willard's . Mfltvfolili ,.K.4 ..D.4 .D, 4 .D.3 ,.Iv 4 .D.4 ,.E. 4 •■K.I R. 3. 1 So. L'liioii (Ccoigcl.'wn). . . IV 2. . D. 4. 1 8 1 . CoitiiitfHtal. E. 4. . It. 4. 1 82. Kirkwopd. D, 7T. St. Chilli. . . ■ 7S. Sf. yamts . . . I 79. ■ IVasliitii^tou. . ISO. '■ ■ ■■ l^ilridJtfU E. 4. .W,fr*rf. I». 4. is. r-'r »•«,<■ 11.5. ii). /'kWH- . v.tKt ff . I.W.orjt, . {rt.C,.t!l,rr. C .». ir.«*.».i*w r. 4- %'■ SiM XV IK^*...**..- .,4. IJmnIn Ji-Cra" u.. (\,tM rjrt ci •!•> K. 4- n.4. 1:. 4. .;;. «.Y,i»h.j; C.trJrn.. XH. iMftytlle -V' jo: fHttki^ry 40. St.tHtifm 6.t. .Irmy .UfJi.utl .UiiSfHn. <»4. (*vis V PrintiMf; C^ft. «5. lW!lwfi,tArnitr_r,.,, '[JLiaQDyaDl ILZJLjlj'2iIE: O'DEHi WASHINGTON CITY. I. CaptWl F. 4. S 2 While House C. 4. y. ■5. Trfjjsuiy D^fiartmeni. . . D. 3, 4. 4. War ,jii/l Navy Di'p'ta (new Statf Dcp't) C. 3, 4- 5. Pit Olfier D. 3, 4. r,. Post " D.IC. 4. 7 State Department 1)2. Xtitional Obscrfotoiy Ix ). \,ijiitaut (i.iLS Offin-s 't !•/ Agriculture D. 5. 12. Wrtsfiiiifiton MoHiimettl . . .C. 5. 1 3. U. S. Arsenal Iv. 7 1 4. .yavy Yard G. 6. -fl^IE—kJi&tJLId- 3'/juuaaaL >^uajj |rjr]L]aLJ[_i:7Z]a[ l^^l 4! WASHINGTON. Route 69. 421 reading-rooms, the files of papers in these offices are generally accessible to visi- tors from their respective sections. Amusements. — The National Theatre (E St., near 14th) produces dramas and comedies, with a regular stoclv company and occasional " star " engagements. Operas are sometimes presented here during the winter months. Ford's Opera House (9th St., near Penn. Ave.) has a small auditorium. Lectures and Concerts are given m Lincoln Hall, corner of 9th and D Sts. ; Masonic Hall, corner of 9th and F Sts. ; Odd Fellows' Hall, 7th St., between D and E Sts. ; and Willard's Hall, F St., near 14th St. Billiards are found in several saloons throughout the city, the principal resort being at the National Hotel. German sports aiid viands are found at the Schuetzen Park, on 7th St., beyond the Howard University. Boating is a favorite amusement of the civil-service men, who have several well- drilled rowing-clubs. Their races are conducted on the broad reaches of the Potomac, and attract many spectators. Base-ball is played on the grounds in the N. W. part of the city. The Season. — The best times to visit Washington with design to see the natural beauties of the city and its environs are in May, early June, and Octo- ber, when the air is bland and genial, and the rich foliage of the parks and the llowers of the national gardens are in bloom. The fashionable season is during the winter, when much of the brilliant society and talent of the Republic is con- centrated here. The sessions of Congress begin on the first Monday in Decem- ber, and continue until March 4 (in the odd-numbered years), or until early summer (in the even-numbered years). During this period tlie galleries of the Senate and House of Representatives are open to visitors (except during occa- sional short exe<-utive sessions of the former body) ; and the leading politicians of the nation may there be seen. The debates in the House are oftentimes spicy and exciting, but are nearly unintelligible on account of the noise ; and most visitors will prefer the stately decorum and quietude of the Senate. The two houses ojien their sessions at noon, and the first hour is devoted to the uninter- esting routine of reading the journal and reporting bills. The sessions usually close late in tlie afternoon, though during times of exigency and the discussion of important measures the Senate sometimes continues in conclave until far into the night. When the House is in session a flag is displayed over the S. wing of the Capitul ; and the flag over the N. wing indicates that the Senate is in session. When the debates are prolonged into the evening, the great lantern over the dome is illuminated, forming a brilliant mass of light which is visible for many miles. The fashionable season lasts from New Year's until Lent, and is filled with a round of receptions, balls, and parties. The days of the receptions are announced in the newspapers, and the Presidential levees are open to all who may come. Full evening dress should be worn, although it is not essential to admission. Ambassadors. — The office of the legation of Austria is at 172S H St., N. W. ; Belgium, 1714 Penn. Ave. ; Brazil, 822 Conn. Ave., N. W. ; Cliili, Wormley's Hotel; Denmark, 2015 G St. ; Ecuador, 1741 G St., N. W. ; the French Repub- lic, 1721 H St., N. W. ; the German E;npire, 734 15th St.. N. W. ; Great Britain, in the costly new buiMing of the British Legation, on Conn. Ave. ; Hayti, Ar- lington House ; Italy, 2017 G St., N. W. ; Jai)an, 926 Scott Place ; Mexico, 1724 a St. ; Holland, GlT 13th St. ; Peru, 1709 H St., N. W. ; Portugal, 1725 H St.. N. W. : Russia, 1801 FSt.. N. W. ; Spain, 1301 K St., N. W. ; Sweden and Nor- way, 2015 G St.. N. W. ; Turkey, 1404 H St., N. W. Military Music by the Marine Band daily at guard-mounting at the Marine Barracks. Also (during the summer) on Wednesday afternoons in the East Park, and on Saturday afternoons in the grounds of the Executive Mansion. Carriages. — Caution and firmness are necessary in dealing with most of the hackmen of Washington. The legal tariff allows them : for 1 -2 passengers (one- horse coach), 75c. per hour or per course, or if less tiian 1 M., |^ the above rates ; for 1-2 persons (two-horse carriage) per hour, $1.50; per course of overt M., $ 1 ; for each additional passenger, 50c. In case of disagreement, drive to a police-station. Carriages for excursions beyond the city had best be engaged at the hotel-offices or the livery-stables. The general price for a barouche and driver, to carry 1-4 persons to the Soldiers' Home or to Arlington, is $5. Among the longer carriage routes (for which special contracts must be made) are those to the Great Falls of the Potomac, and along the fortified heights from the Aqueduct Britlge to Alexandria. The battle-district as far as Manassas is often traversed by parties of gentlemen in open carriages. 422 Route 69. WASHINGTON. Collections and Public Buildings. Agriculture, Department of (page 438), open from 9 a. m. to 3 P. M. daUy,! Mu- seums of Agriculture and Entomology and Herbarium. * Arlington House and National Cemetery (page 44S), open daily to all visitors. Jrmy Medical Museum (page 437), 10th St., between E and F ; daily from 9 a. m. to 3 p. M. Botanical Gardens (page 431), entrances on 3d St. and opposite the West Capitol Park ; daily from 9 a. m. to 6 p. m. Capitol (page 426), on Capitol Hill ; open daily until dark, and sometimes till late at night. Congressional Cemetery (page 425), open daily till dusk. Columbia Hospital, corner of L and 25th Sts.; Tues. and Fri., from 10 A. M. to 4 p. M. Columbia Institution for the Deaf and Dumb (page 445), reached by Columbia Railway ; open daily. Committee-Booms in the Capitol. — Entered by permission of the sergeants-at- arms. * Congress (page 421), open during session from 12 m. to 3 p. m., or later. Convent of the Visitation (page 447), Fayette St., Georgetown ; open to visitors Wed. and Sat. afternoons. *Corcoru7i Gallery of Art (page 440), corner of Penn. Ave. and 17th St.; open daily from 10 a. m. until dark (Tues., Thurs., and Sat., free). Dome of the Capitol (page 427), oi)en daily. Education, Bureau of, corner of G and 'sth Sts. (opposite Patent-Offlce) ; open daily, 9-3. * Executive Mansion (page 439), Penn. Ave., near 16th St.; open daily, 10-3 o'clock. * Georgetown College (page 446), on Georgetown Heights ; open daily. Glenwood Cemetery, I5 M. from the Cajtitol ; open daily. Hoioard University (page 445), 7th St. Road ; open daily. Insaiie Asylum (page 445), 2 M. from the Navy Yard ; open Wednesdays, 2-6 p. M. Interior Department, N. Corridor of Patent-Office ; 9 - 3 daily. * Library of Congress (page 427), W. front of the Capitol; open daily, 9-4 (or until the adjournment of Congress). Louise Home, Mass. Ave., near 15th St. (page 43S); open every afternoon. * Mount Vernon (page 450). Steamboats daily from the 7th St. wharf. Naval Museum (page 425), Navy Yard ; open daily, 9-4. Naval Observatory (page 443), foot of 24th St.; open daily, 9-3. Navy Department, 17th St., near Penn. Ave.; open daily, 9-3. Navy Yard (page 424), foot of 8th St. E.; open daily, 7 a, m. till sunset. * Oak Hill Cemetery (page 446), Georgetown Heights ; open daily from sunrise to sunset. * Ordnance Museum (page 442V corner of 17th and F Sts.; open daily, 9-3. * Patent-Office, Model Rooms (page 436) ; open daily, 9-3. Post-Office (page 43G), open daily, 9-3. President's House, see Executive Mansion. Smithsonian Institution and Museums (page 432), open daily, 9-4. * Soldiers' Home (page 445), 3 M. N. of the Capitol ; grounds open daily. State, Department o/(page 438), open daily (except Thursdays;, 9^-2^. Supreme Court (page 428), open daily during session. Treasury Department (page 439), open daily, 9-2. War Department (page 44'2), open daily, 9-3. Washington Monument (page 434), open daily on application to the keeper, who lives near by. Fees and gratuities are not expected by the attendants and custodians of the national buildings, and attempts to bestow them would generally be resented. 1 It is almost superfluous to mention that the public buildings of Washington, as gener- ally throughout tlie Republic, are closed on Sunday. WASHINGTON. Route 69. 423 Post-Office, on F St. near 7th, open from 6 a m. to 11 p. m. ; and on Sundays from 8 to io a. m. and 6-7 p.m. Telegrapli-Ojfices. — Western Union, corner oS reun. Ave. and 14th St. ; Franklin, GU9 Penn. Ave. Horse-Cars. — All points of interest in the city can be reached by horse-cars. The F St. line (, Metropolitan Railway) runs prettily furnished one-horse cars, and is patronized by tlie better classes (fare, 7c. ; 10 tickets for 50c.). They run every 4 min., from the Senate wing of the Capitol by the Bait. & Ohio station, C St Louisiana Ave., 5th St., F St. (passing the Post-Office and Pateut-Oflice), 14tU St., H St., and 17th St. (passing the War and Navy and new State Departments). The same line runs cars from Lincoln Square up E. Capital St., 1st St. E., B St., N. J. Ave., C St., Louisiana Ave., 5th St., P St., 14th St.. H. St., Conn. Ave., P St., West St. (Georgetown), High St., and Fayette St. to the Convent of the Visi- tation; also from the P St. Circle, out Conn. Ave. to the city-limits ; also from the corner of 9th and M Sts. down 9th St. to B St., 6th St. , Missouri Ave., and 4^ St. to the Arsenal gate. The Washington & Georgetown Street Railway (fare, 5c. ) runs every 5 min. from the Navy Yard along 8th St. E. and Penn. Ave. to the Caiiitol, thence on Penn. Ave., 15th St., Penn. Ave., and High St. (Georgetown). The 7th St. Branch runs from the Potomac Ferry to Alexandria on 7th St. (intersecting the main line at Penn. Ave.) to the city limits near the Howard University ; where it connects with the Silver Springs Branch to the Schuetzen Park and the vicinity of the Soldiers' Home. Tlie 14th St. Branch runs (every 10 min.) from the Treasury out New York Ave. and 14th St. to the city limits and the vicinity of the Columbian University. The Columbia Railway runs (every 10 min.) from the Treasui-y over New York and Mass. Aves. and H St. by the Government Printing-office and St. Aloysius Cathedral, and terminates at the citv limits. The Belt line runs from the Capitol along 1st. C, 4th, 0, 11th, E, 14th, Ohio Ave., 12th, Virginia, and Maryland Aves. Kailroatls. — The Bait. & Ohio, to Baltimore and the North (see Route 66) ; the B;ilt. & Potomac (see Routes 67, 68). The Metropolitan Branch runs from the Bait. & Ohio station to Point of Ro<;ks, 43 M. (Harper's Ferry, 55 M.). The trains for the South leave the Bait. & Potomac station (corner of 6th and B Sts.) by the Washington & Alexandria R. R. (to Alexandria, 7 M.). Steamboats. —For Norfolk and Boston (l.y transfer), Mon. and Thurs. at 2 P. M. from the 7th St. Avharf ; for New York every Friday from the foot of High St., Georgetown ; for Philadelphia on Tnes. and Fri. from Water St., Georgetown (by dies. & Del. Canal) ; for Baltimore and the river landings at evening on Mon., Tues., and Fri. from 7th St. wharf ; for Quantico (Acquia Creek) every morning at 7 o'clock, connecting with trains for the South ; for the river ports and the Northern Neck, on Mon., Tues., Thurs., and Fri., from the 7th-St. wharf; for Mount Vernon daily at 10 a. m. from 7th St. wharf. Ferry-boats run to Alex- andria every hour during the day, from the 7th St. wharf (fare, 15c. ; round trip, 25c.). Washington, the capital of the Republic of the United States of Axnerica, is favorably situated on the 1. bank of the Potomac River, at its confluence with the Eastern Branch. The site of the city is one of the finest in the country, and occupies an undulating plain encompassed by high hills. It is famous for its salubrity, and is rapidly becoming a favorite winter resort, while the wide avenues are being lined Avith handsome residences. The plan of the streets is very peculiar ; and it has been well said that " Washington City in its grand plan is French ; in its minor plan, Quaker. It is tlie city of Philadelphia griddled across the city of Versailles." The rectangular streets are crossed obliquely by 21 broad avenues (120-160 ft. wide), bearing the names of the States; and the triangular spaces at the intersections are laid out as parks. There are 264 M. of streets and avenues, with more width than in any other city ; and of these over 160 M. are firmly paved (costing nearly 424 Route 69. WASHINGTON. $5,000,000), Massachusetts Ave. and Pennsylvania Ave. are each 4| M. long, extending across the city from the Eastern Branch to Rock Creek. The last-named avenue is the main thoroughfare, and passes the Capitol grounds, the Treasury, White House, and new State Department, and continues the chief route to Georgetown. 7th St. is the next important thoroughfare of the city, and runs from the wharves on the Potomac to the heights by tlie Howard University, intersecting Penn. Ave. nearly midway between the Capitol and the Treasury. The population of the city in 1870 was 109,199, of whom 35,455 were negroes, and 13,757 were foreigners (mostly Irish and German). There are 5 banks, 8 daily and 10 weekly papers, and 120 churches and chapels (of which 20 are negro, and 6 are German). There are 22 lodges of Masons, 13 of Odd Fellows, 19 of Knights of Pythias, 7 of Red Men, 4 of the Brotherhood of the Union,* 8 tents of Rechabites, 6 posts of the Grand Army of the Rejniblic, 3 Schuetzenvereins, 2 Turnervereins, and 7 musical societies. The com- merce and manufactures of the city are comparatively insignificant ; and the majority of the inhabitants are, directly or indirectly, connected with the civil and military services of the Republic. From the Capitol Grounds, Maryhmcl Ave. leads S. AV. to the Long Bridge, and N. E. to the toll-gate. E. CajJttol St. runs E. (with a width of IGO ft.) to the Eastern Branch, passing Lincoln Square, on which a costly monument has been erected. N. Capitol St. leads N. to the Gov- ernment Printing -Office, the largest printing-house in the world. Tlie building is over 400 ft. long and 4 stories high, and has 52 presses and 300 composing-stands. The third floor is occupied by the bindery. The number of government documents, reports, and surveys which are printed here annually is simply enormous; and some of the illustrated reports and liistories are of great beauty and typographical excellence. Just beyond this point is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Aloysi^ts, a plain but spacious building where fine music is heard on Sunday afternoons. N. of the Cathedral is a tall campanile. New Jersey Ave. runs N. N. W. from the Capitol through a thinly settled district, passing the Bait. & Ohio station, and terminates at the base of the heights, near the Howard University. Pennsylvania A ve. rvms E. S. E. from the Capitol grounds across the broad plateau where the city was intended to have been located. Tlie great building of the Providence General Hos2ntal is seen on the r, at 2d St., and is conducted by the Sisters of Charity. At 8th St. the horse-car line and the current of general travel turns S. and passes to the Navy Yard, by the Marine Barracks. The * Washington Navy Yard is situ- ated on the Eastern Branch, or Anacostia River, 1^ M. S. E. of the Capi- tol (horse-cars every 6 ndn.). It covers 27 acres, and is entered by a portal which was designed by Latrobe. Within the entrance are 2 long WASHINGTON. Route 69. 425 brass cannon which were captured by Decatur from the Tripolitau gun- boats (in 1804). Officers' quarters are seen on either side; and a short distance to the r. is the * Naval Museum, a small two-story building, whose interior is kept in remarkable order, and with true man-of-war's- man's daintiness. The polished wooden walls and ceilings are adorned with stars, circles, and crosses formed of bright cutlasses. Here may be seen Confederate torpedoes ; projectiles in great variety ; war-rockets ; marine howitzers ; models of heavy naval artillery; swivels; a cannon used by Cortez in the Conquest of Mexico ; a mortar captured from Lord Cornwallis ; Spanish guns ; l:)lunderbusses ; two 20-inch cannon-balls from the cannon on the Rip-Raps Battery ; and the stern post of the frigate Kearsarge, smashed by a shell from tlie Alabama. The Artillery Park is beyond the Commandant's residence; near the centre of the yard, and contains a remarkably mteresting trophy-battery. Here are the powerful armaments of the Confederate iron-clads Albe- viarle, Atlanta, and Tennessee; an immense Whitworth gun fi'om Fort Fisher; other heavy artilleiy from the Southei'u coast; Austrian and French guns ; and a heavy cannon which was on the Confederate ram, the Merriinac. There is a fleet of vessels in the stream, among which are several monitors and torpedo-boats. The monitors are battered veterans of the Secession War, and may be inspected on securing a permit at the office of the Yard. High uj) on the opposite shore is the imposing front of the Asylum for the Insane ; and pleasant views are afforded down the river. The Experimental Battery is near the shore, and is devoted to in- culcating the principles of naval gunnery. The great ship-houses, ord- nance-foundries, store-houses, and otlier buildings in the Yard, will attract the attention of the visitor. Two squares N. of the gate are the Marine Barracks, the head-quarters of the U. S. Marine Corps, a body of 2,500 men, who are the soldiers of the fleets of the Republic, and have rendered the most illustrious and brilliant services in all quarters of the globe. The ceremony of guard-mounting is performed at the barracks every morning (8 in the summer and 9 in the winter), with military pre- cision and the music of the famous Marine Band. Tliere are some inter- esting trophy-flags in the armory. The Washington Navy Yard was established in 1804, and here were built the renowned frigates, the Wasp, Viper, Essex, Argus, St. Louis, Potomac, Brandy wine, Columbia, and others. The Congressional Cemetery is beautifully situated on the high bluff over the Eastern Branch, 1 M. above the Navy Yard, and contains over 20 acres. There are 147 plain freestone cenotaphs, erected in honor of the Congressmen who have died during their terms of service. Among the raonuments are those of Gen. Jacob Brown, commander of the U. S. Army from 1821 to 1828 ; Gen. Alexander Macomb, his auccessor ; Gens. ne, embellished with symbolic carvings and containing a fine public hall, which is much used for balls and sociables. The Army Medical Museum (open daily, 9-3) is on 10th St. W., be- tween E. and F Sts. On tlie first floor is the Surgeon- General's Office, with 16,000 volumes of hospital records, and the names of 270,000 soldiers who died in the hospitals, and 210,000 who were discharged as disabled. 438 Route CS. WASHINGTON. The Museum proper is on the third floor, anrl is the finest and most conipletn of the kind in the world. It contains 16,000 specimens (900 pathological and 2,800 microscopic preparations), illustrating all manner of wounds and diseases. The Anatomical fSection contains about 1,000 human skulls, mostly of Indians ; and the Section of Comparative Anatomy contains 1,000 skeletons of American mannnalia. This building was formerly used as Ford's Theatre, and within its walls, April 19, 1865, President Lincoln was assassinated by John Wilkes Booth. After the fatal shot Mr. Lincoln was carried to the house across the street (No. 516), where he died during the night. The theatre was closed by the government, and was afterwards purchased and api)lied to its present use. Advancing along Penn. Ave. to 10th St., beyond the fine iron front of the Chronicle office, the Smithsonian Institution is seen to the 1., and at the foot of 13th St. (1.) is the Department of Agriculture. Passing the imposing building of the National Jiepublican, the avenue intersects Fourteenth St., near the National Theatre and Willard's Hotel. Thi^ important street begins at the S. at the Long^ Bridge, a shabby structure about 1 M. long (partly causeway), which crosses the Potomac River. This bridge was strongly fortified during the Secession War, and was the chief line of communication between the Army of the Potomac and its supply-depots. Passing thence to the N., 14th St. runs between the Department of Agriculture and tlie Washington Monument, intersects Penn. Ave., passes Newspaper Row (the head-quarters of the Washing- ton correspondents), crosses F St., with the Treasury on the 1., gives glimpses of the Foundry (Meth.), Epiidiany (Epis.), and N. Y. Ave. Pres- byterian churches on the r. ; and traverses a district of fine residences. Across Franklin Square the fine building of the Franklin School is seen; and a short distance beyond, the broad Massachusetts Ave. crosses tlie street, running N. W. to the * statue of Gen. Scott. This magnificent work was completed in 1874 at a cost of $ 20,000, and was cast (in Phila- delphia) from Mexican cannon captured by Scott. It is colossal in dimen- sions, and represents Scott sitting upon his horse and overlooking the field. The design was by H. K. Brown, of New York. The pedestal is composed of 5 enormous blocks of Cape Ann granite, two of which weigh respectively 119 tons and 84 tons, and are the largest quarried stones in the world (except those in the ancient walls of Jerusalem and Baalbek). Near this point is the Louise Home., an elegant building which was erected by Mr. Corcoran for a home for impoverished old ladies of culture and social standing. At S St., 14th St. passes the Protestant Orphan Asylum, a roomy and comfortable building of red brick, and soon afterward reaches the city limits, near the Columbian University. This institu- tion is under the auspices of the Baptist Church, and has 11 instructors and over 400 students, with a famous law department (on Judiciary Square) with 5 instructors and 160 students, and a medical college (H St., near 14th) with 10 instructors and 70 students. The college buildings occupy the crest of Meridian Hill, which comniands fine views of the city and the river. Wayland Seminary (Baptist) is on this hill. WASHINGTON. Route 69. 439 The * * Treasury Department is at the comer of Penn. Ave. and 15th St. and remains open to visitors from 9 A. m. to 2 p. m. It is the finest building for the purpose in the world, and is constructed in massive and imposing Ionic architecture. The E. front was built in 1836, presenting an unbroken line (342 ft. long) of .30 Ionic columns, and is of painted sandstone. The remainder of the building is of gray granite from the coast of Maine, and is of the most substantial and enduring character. The dimensions (over all) are 582 ft. long by 300 ft. wide, with 2 enclosed court-yards, and the cost has been about i| 6,000,000. The W. front has side porticos and a grand central entrance fronted by 8 columns, and ap- proached by broad granite stairways. The immense size of the mono- liths of the columns and capstones (the latter 18x17 ft. in area) are worthy of note, and the columns are said to be tlie largest of the kind in the world (weigliing 33 tons). The N. and S. fronts are alike, and are adorned by imposing porticos. The N. front is below the level of the Avenue, and looks out on a garden which is embellished by a fountain ; and the S. front is highly elevated and looks across a broad platform which is to be adorned with statuary, and commands a pleasant view over the Potomac River. Within the building are 195 rooms, with broad corridors adorned witli colored marbles. The finest apartment is the C'(tsh Room, which extends tlirough two stories, is lined witli rich marble, — red and white for the pavement, Sienna, Bardiglio, and Pyrenean for the panels, black and dove-colored Vermont, white Tennessee and Carrara, and veined marbles for the pilasters and stylobates. The coffered ceiling is enriched by elaborate mouldings, and is lightly gilded. The Gold Room, or Treasury vaults, may be seen by permit from the Treasurer. There is usually about $ 10,000,000 in gold coin in these vaults, defended by thick walls of chilled iron and steel. The reserve vaults are not accessible; and the bond vault is near the Gold Room. The operations of counting the currency, examining the mutilated bills, etc., may be seen from the cor- ridors. Great numbers of ladies are engaged in clerical duties in the building. The Freedmen's Savings and Trust Company has a stately brownstone building N. of the Treasury, in whose upper stories are the offices of the Department of Justice. The * Executive Mansion (popularly known as the White House) is \h M. W. of tlie Cai)itol, and fronts on Penn. Ave. near 16th St. It was modelled after the palace of the Duke of Leinster, and is 170 ft. long by 86 ft. deep. The material is freestone (painted white), and the portico to the N. is of considerable depth (upheld by Ionic columns). Toward the Potomac is a semicircular portico with an Ionic colonnade. The chief at- traction within the mansion is the * East Room (open daily from 9 to 3), a fine hall 80 ft. long and 40 ft. wide, adorned in classic style and richly furnished. In and near the vestibule are portraits of Presidents John 440 Route 69. WASHINGTON. Adams, Van Biiven, Tyler, Polk, Fillmore, Pierce, and Lincoln ; also Stuart's portrait of Washington. The Blue, Red, and Green Rooms are j also on this floor, and are sumptuously decorated. The Execntive Office- and the Cabinet Rooin, with the private apartments of the family, are on the second floor. W. of the mansion are the spacious conservatories ; on the S. is the pleasant park where the Marine Band plays on Saturday afternoons during the summer season. This park is bordered by the graceful curves of Executive Ave. The President's Mansion was foimded in 1792 ; first occupied by John Adams, in 1800 ; destroyed by the Brit- ish by fire and cannonade, in 1811 ; and rebuilt after 1818. Lafayette Square is N. of the White House, and is the most beautiful park in the city, being filled with fine shrubbery and trees, and travj ersed by pleasant paths. It is adorned with a colossal equestrian * statue of Gen. Andrew Jackson, by whose pedestal are 4 trophy-cannon. The statue weighs 15 tons, and was cast from Spanish cannon taken by Gen. Jackson at Pensacola. It was designed by Clark Mills, and is remarkable for its ingenious balancing, which is efl'ected by making the flanks and tail of the horse of solid metal. Near the sides of the park are 2 rich bronze vases, 7 ft. high, which were cast at the Navy Yard from antique models. N. of the Square is the aristocratic old Episcopal Church of St. John (attended by Presidents Madison, Monroe, and Jackson); and the Catholic Church of St. Matthew is to the E. Vermont Ave. leads N. N. E. from the Square, passing (on the first 1. corner, fronting the Square) the former home of Senator Sumner, also the Arlington Hotel, and Scott Square. Connecticut Ave. runs N. N. W. from the Square to the new and fashionable N. W. quarter of the city, and is traversed by horse-cars. The new British Legation building has been erected on this avenue ; and on the C St. Circle is the stately mansion of Senator Stewart. At the ■ corner of Conn. Ave. and I St. is Farragat Square, which is soon to be adorned with a statue of Admiral Farragut (see page 57). The * Corcoran Gallery of Art is at the corner of Penn. Ave. and 17th St., and is open daily from 10 o'clock until dusk (4 P. M. in winter; 6 P. M. in summer). On Tues., Thurs., and Sat. it is free; on the other 3 days a fee of 25c. is taken. Tlie building is of brick and brownstone, in pure Renaissance architecture, and is embellished with synibolic carvings and the inscription " Dedicated to Art." It is one of the finest art-build- ings in the world, and was constructed for the purpose (thoroughly fire-proof) by Mr. W. W. Corcoran, a wealthy and beneficent banker of Washington. It was unfinished at the outbreak of the Secession War, and was seized and occupied during the war for the Quartermaster- General's office. In 1870 the renovated building was deeded by Mr. Cor- coran to trustees who should administer it in the best interests of the people. WASHINGTON. Route 69. 441 I Visitors are recommended to buy the curator's catalogue (25c.), which is very full in its descriiitions. The Hall of Sculpture is tilled with casts of the master- pieces of antiquity. A fcrtion of thefiieze of the Parthenon (after Phidias), 180 ft. long, runs around under the cornice. Among the casts are the Discobolus ; 9, t Venus of Milo; 10, Venus di Medici; 11, Capitoline Venus ; 12, Ariadne Deserted; Euterpe, Dana, Eros, Ahundarce, Minerva, Germanicus. Antinous, the Dying Gladiator, the Laocoon, Nero, Ajax, Silenus, Venus Callipygos, Achilles Borghese, Mercury, A'enus, Crouching Venus, Venus at the Bath, iEscul^pius, Demosthenes, Julia, Aristides, Sophocles, Socrates, Homer, Jupiter, Pohhymnia, Apollo, Centaur, Venus Anad\omene, Apollo Belvidere (58 , .Tuno, Mcleager, Menelaus, Jason, Cly- tie, Isis, Trajan, and many others. Side Gall, i-- . - Venus Vic trix, after Gib- son ; Venus, after Canova, Clytie, after Bintliart : Venus Victrix. after Tliorwald- fen. The Keii»i8saiire Gallery contains copies of the Baptistery Doors of Florenre ; the Slaves. David, and Day and Night, after Michael Angelo ; and 18 bas- reliefs by Jean Goujon. The Hall cf Bronze.*; contains a pair of Sevres va.ses ; a * series of lemarkably delicate copies of the Hildesheim Treasures (exquisite silver plate, dug up at Hilde- sheim, and supposed to have belonged to the Roman Consul Varus), in 30 pieces ; 8 pieces of Faience ware ; statuette of Echo, Mind ; bust of Humboldt, Ranch ; several ■vases of majolic.-i and Sevres porcelain; 114 of Bar^e"s exquisite and renowned ♦bronzes (the finest collection in America) : 96 electrotype reproductions of medi- eval European armor, weapons, plate, ornaments, ba.«-reliefs, shrines, etc. ; antique fire-dogs ; statuettes, after John of Bologna and Barye's famous group of Theseus Slaying the Centaur IMaiii Galiei-y (on the second floor, 9G X 45 ft. in area). 1. Portrait of W. W. Corcoran, Elliott: 2, 3, The Departure and Return, Cole; 4, Watoring-Place, Srhrfycr : 5. Odalisque, l^t. Pieire ; 6, Forest-Scene. DiiranrJ : 7, *The Vestal, J^onx; 9, Drove at the Ford, Hart: 10, 11. Landscapes, Robbe ; 12, Amazon, Ln.tze : 14, Paddy's Mark, iWco/ .• 17, * Mercy's Dream, Huntington : 18, Magdalena River, Chvrrh; 19. Savoyard, Collelte : 21, Caesar Dead, Gerome : 23, 24, Interiors, Demarne ; 25, Autumn" on the Hudson, Dovshty ; 26, Seaport, J. Vftnet : *27, Adoration of the Shepherds, R. Mevgs : 28, Pets, E. Ju/mson : 30, Fruit, Pirelli; 34, Le I'uits qui Parle, J. Vely ; 36, The Drought in Egypt, Portaeh; 40, The Long Story, Mount; 42, Lost Dogs, Von Thoren; 45, Fete of St. John in Dalecarlia, raJmsim ; 46, * Count of Wurteu.burg and his Dead Son, Aiy Scheffer ; 47, Crom- well and Milton, Uutze ; 49, 50, Landscapes, Japy ; 53, Portrait of John Tyler, H'-aly; 54, M. Lasteyrie, R. P^nle ; 55, Andrew Jackson, Sully; 57, John Ran- d.ilph, Hnrdina : fS Death of Mo.ees, Cabanel; 59, Charlotte Corday in Prison, TihiUrr: 61, Guizot, Healy : 62, Henrv Clay, Inmnn : 65, Farm-House, Morlanri ; m. In Madeira, HildfhrnviH ; 68, *Le" Regiment qui Passe, Detaille : 70, Scheven- iiigen, Katmmerir ; 72, Satyrs, Priait : 73, Heir Presumptive, Boughton ; 74. In Auvergne, Bail: 75, Con.stantinople, Zinv. E. Gallery — 1, French Cuirassiers and Davariau Prisoners, Detaillf. W. Gallerv— 2, Landscape, Gisnoux; 4, L.nox, Mass., Ofh/ie ; 6, Swiss Scene, Seefisck; 8, Mt. Washington, Kensett ; 9, Napoleon T. : 11, Flumboldt : 13, Cascade, aft>-r Achenbarh : 15, Battle, V Brnigkel ; 16, Castel Gondolfo. C. P Crnnch ; 20, Norman's Woe, Lanwan ; 23, Great Falls of Potomac: 24, Italian Moonlight, Tavernier ; 25, On the Hudson, Kensett: 2b, ^ ir- gin and Child, nl tlie library (30,000 volumes), are superbly furnished and of noble proportions. The * Ordnance Museum (ojieii daily, 9 - 3) is in Winder's Building (comer of 17th and F Sts.), whirli is devoted to government offices. The Museum is on the second floor of the W. wing, and contains models of field and fortress artillery in position ; casemates ami ramparts ; iniiforms, and every kind of military equip- ments ; shot and shell of all calibres, from the innnense 20-inch l,000-])ound ball to the small G-pounder ; gra])e-shot, canister, spherical case, and all manner of projectiles ; rockets, busli-fire, tourbillons, petards ; cartridges, from the small pistol-calibre up to the great bags of powder for the 20-incli guns ; rebel shot and shell; cavalry forges and caissons; chevaux-de-frise ; a steel Whitworth gun; Catling and eoftee-mill guns ; the Egyptian camel-artillery ; the cari-iage of the lirst(rehel) cannon fired during the Civil War; a model of the Rock Island Arse- nal ; Jeff. Davis's rifle ; and a section of an oak-tree which was literally cut down by musket-balls in the battle of Spottsylvania. The hall is draped with hundreds of Confederate battle-flags, and of State and regimental banners, which were either taken in battle or in the great surrenders of the Southern armies. The Signal-OfSce is on G St., near the War Department, and is the head-quarters of the Weather Bureau, under Gen. A. J. Myer. The in- struments in use here are of the most delicate character. The original design of the Signal Corps was to transmit intelligence quickly during the progress of battles or military movements, by means of signal Hags. Since 1870 the corps has been engaged in tabulating and reporting in advance (by telegraph) the conditions of the atmosphere and the probabilities of tlie weather. Cautionary signals are displayed at the chief lake and ocean ports if a storm is approaching them ; and the predictions of the Weather Bureau are generally verified. The Hydrographic Office is at the comer of 18th St. and N. Y. Ave., in an ancient building called the Octagon. Its chief business is with charts and sailing directions. I WASHINGTON. Rmite 69. 443 The ancient Van Ness mansion is at the foot of 17th St. It was the home of David Burn?, owner of tlie land on which a large ]iart of the city is built. His daughter Marcia was married by Gen. Van Ness, of New York (in 1802), who made of this estate one of the linest places in the country. Rawlins Square is on New York Ave. , near ISth St. , and is prettily adorned. Herehas been placed a statue of Gen. John A. Rawlins, Secretary of War in 1869. Penn. Ave. passe.s between the Corcoran Art Gallery and the "War De- partment, and deflects to tlie r. at 17th St , passing through an old quarter of the city to the Washinrfton Circle (at 28d St.), in which is an equestrian statue of Gen. George Washington, by Clark Mills (completed in 1860). He is represented as at tlie Battle of Princeton, with his terror-stricken charger recoiling before the fire of the hostile artillery. The * U. S. Naval Observatory is at the foot of 24th St. W., and is one of the chief in.stitutions of the kind in the world. It occupies a hill near and 96 ft. above the Potomac ; and the central building is provided with a revolving dome. There are numerous fine instruments, the chief of which is the great equatorial telescope (the largest of the kind in the world). The observatory is on the first meridian for astronomical pur- poses in the U. S. (the Greenwich meridian is used for nautical calcu- lations), and is in latitude 38'' 53' 38" N., and longitude IT 3' 6" W. of Greenwich. On the Observatory Hill encamped part of the army of Braddock, in 1755; and Washington wished to have a National Univer- sity founded here. On Oct. 21, 1783, Congress was insulted while in session at Philadelphia by a party of mutinous uoldiers, and removed its sessions to Princeton. It had then occupied 8 different locutions within as many years, and uow desired to ejtablish a federal city for tlie location of the national capital. The great difficulty was found in the local pride of tlie sections, each of which desired to have the capital within its bonlci'3. New York wanted it at Kingston, Rhode Island at Newport, Maryland at Annapolis, and Virginia at Williamsburgh. South Carolina protested against Philadelphia on account of the antislavery sentiment there. German- town, Wrightstown (Penn.), and Havre de Grace also had strong advocates ; and in 1787 Lee, of Virginia, i)roposed Georgetown, which was, however, rejected by Mass., N. Y., Va. , and Ga. In 1790 an act was passed locating the city on the hills of Conococheague (the present site), and Washington purchased the requisite land from the 4 resident farmers. As early as 1G63 the domain was called Rome, the traversing water-course the Tiber, and the chief eminence (on which the Capi- tol now stands) was known as the Capitoline Hill, — not, as has been intimated, on account of prophetic intimations of its future greatness, but because it was owned by a Mr. Pope, who facetiously desired to be called the Pope of Rome. In 1755 Washington had encamped on the present site of the Naval Observatory with Braddock's troops, and probably had studied the surrounding topography, April 15, 1791, the corner-stone of the District of Columbia was laid with Masonic ceremonies. Gen. Washington named the new capital "The Federal City"; but in the following year (1792) the commissioners entitled it " The City of Washington." Jefferson detested the old Babylonian plan of rectangular squares (as exemplified at Philadelphia); and under his influence the surveyors (L'Enfaiit and Eilicott) introduced a system of grand Versaillaise avenues. The commissioners ordered the founding of an ornate itinerary column in the present Lincoln Square (like the Umhilims in the Roman Forum), whence all American distances should be computed and the national roads should depart. A grand national church (non-sectarian) was to be founded on tlie ])resent Patent-Ofhee site ; and 15 squares were to be given to the States for adornment. In 1788-89, Maryland and Virginia ceded a domain of 100 square M. to the U. S. (of which the Virginian portion was unfortunately retroceded in ISiii). 444 Route 70. WASHINGTON. 1 The Battle of Bladenshurg was fou^^ht Au^-. 22, 1814, when 3,000 Maryland militia were led out to rcimlsu the iij\;,tlii)g British force under Gen. Ross/ The militia, though superior in number t-> ti.c enemy, behaved with shameful pol- troonery, and fled at the first volley ; but a detachment of 400 sailors with artillery fought valiantly until they were surrounded and overpowered, and the hostile force then occuiiicd the city (after losing 250 men). President Madison had watched the battle, and was obliged to seek refuge in Virginia. The Navy Yard had been destroyed by the Americans, and the British, under the lead Of the truculent Admiral Cockburn, proceeded to burn and cannonade the Capitol, White House, and other public buildings. After these vandalic acts of destruction the invaders retired, leaving the shabby village in ruins. At the opening of the Secession War Washington was an unclean and widely scattered city of about 60,(i00 inhabitants, with many slaves and nnassimilated factions of society, Northern and Southern. Wide and desolate avenues ran through half-settled districts, luij^aved and nmddy ; and the unfinished i)ublic buildings looked ragged and uncomely. Tlie volunteers reported that it was " hardly worth defending, except for the eclat of the thing." The hfdf-disloyal District militia was inadecjuate, even if willing, to protect the city against the il- surgent Virginians ; and great enthusiasm was manifested when the Central Pennsylvania troops reached the capital. The armed and disciplined 6th Mass. quickly arrived, and was followed by the 7th N. Y., and thereafter by a vast stream of Northern and Western volunteers. The camps of the Army of the Potomac were hence brth, for a long time and at ditl'erent periods, about the city ; and its vast depots of amnuuiition and supplies were located here. It retreated on Washington after the disastrous defeats at Bull Run (July 21, 1861 ; and August, 1862). On "the solemn circle of those far- bastioned hills" about the city were established lines of fortilicMtious greater than those of Torres Vedras or any othera lieretofore constructed in the world. The defensive perimeter covered 35 M. ; and' 20,000 acres of woodland were cleared to give play to the guns. There were 56 forts and 50 batteries, connected by many miles of intreiuthments and rifle-jtits, with heavy bomb-proofs and secure niasked roads. They mounted 8-900 guns (.some of the heaviest calil)rc\ and needed a garrison of 25,000, while with 50,000 men the city was impregnuble. In July, 18C4, while nearly all the troops were with Grant before Petersburg, the delcnces were assailed by a division of Confed- erate veterans under Gen. Eaily. The men of the civil service were enrolled regiments and put into the rifle-jiits, but the artillerists in Fort Stevens and De Russey (7th St. Road) did all the work, shattering with a heavy convergent fire a storming party of rebels, and easily driving back the hostile field-guns. In the nick of time the veteran 6th Corps arrived on transports from the South, and, marching out through the fortifications, fell upon the astonished enemy. Early retired to the Valley of Virginia in season to be defeated by Sheridan. Since the close of the war and the grand pa' eants of the parade of Grant's and Sherman's united armies, the growth of the city has been remarkably rapid and liealthy. In 1871 the District of Columbia was erected into a Territorial government, under wliose administration immense amounts have been si>ent in paving and grading the streets and embellishing the city. This government was broken up in 1874. 70. The Environs of Washin^on. Arlington and Mount Vernon. Bladensburg is 6 M. N. E. of Washington, and is a shabby old Mary- land village, near the battle-field of Aug. 22, 1814. 1 M. distant, and iu a sequestered glen near the highway, is the famous " duelling-ground," where so many fatal duels were fought during the earlier days of the Re- public. The most mournful of these encounters was that between Com- modores Barron and Decatur, in wliich the latter was mortally wounded. 2 M. N. of Bladensburg is the noble old estate of George Calvert, of the Lord Baltimore family, where a deer-park was formerly established. SOLDIERS' HOME. Route 70. 445 The Government Asylum for the Insane (of the army, navy, and District of Columbia) is reached by crossing the Navy Yard Bridge and ascending the heights beyond Uniontown. The building is 750 ft. long, and is in collegiate Gothic architecture, occupying an estate of over 400 acres. It stands on a high ridge over the Eastern Branch, and overlooks Washington and the Potomac. The Columbia Institution for the Deaf and Dumb occupies the old Kendall Green estate, N. E. of the city. It is open to both sexes, and has a collegiate department. The central build- ing is a beautiful sandstone structure in ornate Gothic architecture, and is richly adorned and furnished ; while the adjacent buildings are spacious and commodious. The Glenioood Cemetery is 1^ M. N. of the Capitol, and is a pleasant rural burying-ground. The Howard University is on the 7th St. road just beyond the city limits, and was founded in 1867 (by the efforts of Gen. 0. 0. Howard) for tlie education of youth without regard to sex or color. It has nearly 600 students, of whom (report of 1871-72) there are, in the normal depart- ment, 238 ; preparatory, 100; collegiate, 35; theological, 26; law, 67; medical, 45; commercial, 84; musical, 21. The larger part of the stu- dents consists of negroes, from Washington, the Southern States, the West Indies, and Africa. The Univei'sity building is a stately structure of white brick, containing the lecture-rooms and museums, and overlooks the city from its lofty hill-top. The view from the tower is very pleas- ing. To the N. are the Miner Hall, Normal Building, and the Clarke Hall; and to the S., on the plain, are the Medical College and Freedmen's Hospital. The * Soldieys' Home is 3 M. N. of the Capitol (horse-cars on 7th St.), near the 7th St. Road. It consists of several marble buildings in Norman architecture, surrounded by a fine park of 500 acres, which is laid out with winding roads, lakelets, and copses. Near the dormitory building is a bronze statue (10 ft. high) of Gen. Scott, by Launt Thompson. This noble asylum, " the Chelsea of America," was founded in 1851 with the proceeds of a forced levy on the city of Mexico, which Gen. Scott's army carried by storm in 1847. The military-asylum fund had increased by 1868 to $800,000, and was about to be distributed to the State asylums, when the commissioners of this institution applied it to the purchase of W. W. Corcoran's adjacent park and domain of "Harewood." This home is for disabled soldiers of the regular army (who forego their pensions while here), and is supported by a tax of 12c, a month on each soldier of the army. Presidents Pierce and Lincoln made this their favorite summer residence. N, of this point is a National Cemetery, where 5,424 soldiers are buried. The Rock Creek Church (St. Paul's) is a fine old Episcopal church near the Home, and situated in a broad and venerable graveyard. The church was built in 1719, with bricks imported 446 nouie70. GEORGETOWN. from England, and has been somewhat remodelled. Beyond this glen are the bare heights which were occupied by Forts Totten and Slocum and their connecting batteries ; and farther to the W., beyond the 7th St. Road, are Forts Stevens and De Ptussey, whose fire scattered the rebel invaders in 1864. Georgetown {Union Hotel) is a quaint little city of 11,384 inhabitants, separated from Washington by the small ravine of Rock Creek, and sit- uated on a line of bold heights overlooking the Potomac. It is connected with Washington by 4 bridges over Rock Creek, and by 2 lines of horse- cars. The low riverward street is lined with half-ruined warehouses, which mark the decline of the commerce of the port. The upper line of heights command fine views over many leagues, and are occupied by old villas, where dwell the leaink 310. Minnehaha 209. Moiigaup 224. Niagara 177. Onoko 310. Passaic 220 Piercefitld 148. Pluto 210. Portage 232. Pro.^pict 154. Pulpit 206. Rainbow 143, 210. Rideau 132. Russell 143. Sawkill 224. Sherman 154. Split Rock 136, 142. Sutherland 102. Taughkannock 206. Tckaharawa 327. Trenton 153 Triphammer 205. Fanwood, N. .1 250. Farmingdale 288, 291. Far Rockaway 47. Fayette Springs, Pa. 364. Felton , Del. 393. Fenton's Inn 137 Fine, N. Y. 158, 160. Fire Island 47. Fisher's Island 54. Fishkill, N. Y. 78. Flagstaff Peak 310. Flemington, N. J.298. Flume Falls, N. Y. 205. Flushing, N. Y. 55. Fluvanna, N. Y. 237. Folingsby's Pond 150. Fonda, N. Y. 163. Font Hill, N. Y. 64. Fordham, N. Y. 57. Forest Falls 204. Forked Lake 151. Fort Ann, N. Y 101. Columbus 15. Covington 198. Delaware 392. Edward, N. Y. 101. Frederick, Md. 410. George, Can. 187. George, N. Y. 105. Hamilton, N. Y. 44, 46. Henry, Can. 192. Lafayette, N Y. 46. Fort Massasauga, Can. 187. Mifflin, Pa. 286. Miller, N Y. 101. Niagara, N. Y. 187. Ontario. N. Y. 218. Plain, N. Y. 164. Putnam 74. Richmond, N. Y. 46. Ticonderoga 110, 111, 13G. Tompkins, N Y. 46. Washington, 27, 300. Washington, Md. Whipple, Ya.448. William Henry 105. Fourteen-lWile Island 108. Fourth Lake 156. Frankford, Pa. 286. Frankfort Sjjrings 362. • Franklin, Pa. 358. Franklin Falls 138. Franklin Furnace 215. Frederick, Md. 407. Fredonia,N. Y. 231. Freehold, N.. I. 288. Frcemansburg, Pa. 252. Frcevjlle, 216, 319. Frenchman's Island 217. Frenchtown, N. J. 299. Fricdensville, Pa. 303. Front Royal, Va. 410. Frostburg, Md. 412. Fruitland, N. J. 292. Fulton Lakes 156, 152, Gainesville, N. Y. 233. Galilee, Pa. 224 Galitzin, Pa. 350. Gallopes Rapids 197. Gananoque, Can. 194. Ganouskie Bay 108. Gap, Pa. 340. Garden Id , Can 192. Gardiner's Id., N. Y. 55. Garoga Lakes 164. Garrison's 75. Gates, N. Y. 175. Gavsport, Pa 350. Genesee, N. Y. 230. Genesee Falls, N. Y. 174. Gene.«eo, N. Y. 229. Geneva, N. Y. 202, 213. Georgetown, Del. 393. Georgetown, D. C 446. Germantown, Pa. 285- Gettysburg, Pa. 379, 376. Ghent, N. Y. 61 Giant of the Valley 136, 141. Gilead Lake, N. Y. 60. Gilesville, Pa 231. Girard Manor, Pa. 335. Glades, the Maryland 412. Gla.ssboro', N.J. 29-3. I Glen Cathedral 209. INDEX. 457 Glen Cove, N. Y. 60. Excelsior 212. Havana 212. Haven 200, 248, 319. Montour 212. Oiioko, Pa. 310. ^Vatkins 208. Glendon, Pa. 252. Gl.-ns Falls, N. Y. 103. Gk-nville, N. Y. 162. Gl.-ucester, N. J. 295. Oloversville, N. Y. 163. Guadenhutten, Pa. 307. Goat Island, N. Y. 179. (ioige, Ithaca 204. Goshen, N. Y. 222. (Joiiverueur, N. Y. 160. Governor's Island 15- Grafton, W. Va. 413. Grand Portage, Can. 132. Grassy Point, N. Y. 69. Gravesend, N. Y, 44. (.h-av"s Ferry, Pa. 386. Great Bend 225, 247. Great Meadows, Pa. 365. Great South Bay 47. Great Valley 331, 337, 339 Greece City, Pa. 358. Greenbush,N. Y. 87. Greencastle, Pa. 377. Gnenfield, N. Y. laS. Given Lakes 168. Greeiiport, N. Y. 54. Green Ridge, Pa. 321. Greensburg, Pa. 362. Greenville, Pa. 238. Greenwich, N. J. 292. Gnensvich,N. Y. 103. Green ^vood Lake 222, 214 Grenadier Island 194. GreiiviUe 132. Greyoourt, N. Y. 222. Gull Islands 54. Gunpowder River 389. Guvuiard, N. Y. 223. Gwynedd, Pa. 300. Hackensack, N. J. 220. Hackettstown, N. J. 242. Haddonfield, N.J. 294 Hadley, N. Y. 1.33. n i-erstown, Md. 377, 407 Ila-ue, N. Y. 109. Ilaiucs Falls 92. Hamburg, Pa. 334. Hamilton, N. Y. 216. Hammondsport 229, 383. Hammonton, N. J. 294. Hancock 225. Hannah's Hill 324. Hanover, Md. 415. Hanover, Pa. 378. Harbor Hill, N. Y. 50. Harlem, N. Y. 32, 37. Harper's Ferry, W. Va. 408. Harrisburg. Pa. 342, 254. Harrisonburg, Va. 410. Harrisville, N. Y. 158. Hart's Island 37. Harvey '.-< Lake, Pa. 313. Harwood, Can. 192. Hastings, N. Y. 64. Hatboro', Pa. 300. Havana Glen, N. Y. 211. Haverford College 339. Haverstraw, N. Y. 69 Havre de Grace Md. 389. Hazleton, Pa. 311, 367. Hecla 335. Hector Falls 212, 213. Helderberg Mts. 83, 329. Hellertown, Pa. 301. Hell Gate 37. Hempstead 47, 49. Hempstead Bay 47. Henderson, N. Y. 159. Henderson, Lake 137. Herkimer, N. Y. 165. Herndoa, Pa. 333. Hestonville, Pa, 339. Hexenkopf, the 299. High Banks of the Genesee 2a3. High Bridge, N. J. 250. HighBridge, N. Y. 27, 37. High Falls 154, 157. Highgate Springs, Vt. 102. Highland Mills 221. Highlands, the 71. Highlands of Navesink 291. High Peak 93. Hightstown, N. J. 288. Hillsdale, N. Y. 60 Hobokeu, N. J. 38, 63. Hofifman's Ferry 162. Hogansburgh, N. Y. 199. Hokendauqua 306. Holland 372. HoUey, N. Y. 175. Hollidaysburg, Pa. 349. Holme.ons Fall.'', N. Y. 156. Lysander 248. Macauley Pond 1-39. McConnelsburg, Pa. 376. Macedon, N. Y. 171. McKeesport, Pa. 364. Mackenzie's Pond 139. Madison, N. J. 239. Magnolia, N. Y. 237. Mahanoy City 311. M iboning Valley 307. Mahopae, Lake 59. Mahwali 221. Mainville, Pa. 336. Maitland, Can. 195. Maiden, N. Y. 82. Malone, N. Y. 127. Mauiaroneek, N. Y. 58. Mammoth Mound 414. Manayunk, Pa. 330. Manchester, N. J. £91. Manchester, N. Y. 202. Manha.-^set Neck ,50. .Manheim, Pa. 337. Manliu.s, N. Y. 168. .Manuuiuskin 297. M.munka Chunk 242, 299. M.irathon, N. Y. 248. Marcus Hook 387. Marcy, N. Y. 153. Marion. N. J. 254. M.irlborough, N. Y. 79. Marmora L^xke 192. Marriottsville, Md. 407. Martin's 139. Martinsburg, W. Va. 377 410. Massawepie Lake 148. >Iassena Springs 128, 198. Mattawa, Can. 132. Mattca.van Mts. 76, 78. Mattituck 54. .Mauch Chunk 307, 320. Maxwell's Point, Md. 339. .May, (^ape 297. May's Landinsr, N. J. 294. Mayville, N. Y. 237, 3G1. Mcacliam Like 127. . Meadville, Pa. 237. Mechanicsburg, Pa. 374. Medford, N. Y. 48. Medina, N. Y. 176 .Mercer, Pa. 362. Morcersburg 376. Metal, Pa. 376. .Metuchen.N. J.257. Mexico 159. Middleburgh, N. Y. 329. Middlebury, Vc. 102. Middletown, Del. 392. MiddletownN. Y. 214, 223. Midd!eto\vn, Pa. 342. Middletown, Vt. 103. Miffliutown, Pa. 346. Milan, Pa. 818. Milford, Del. 393. Milford, N .J. 2'.t9. Milford, Pa. 223, 245. Millersburg, Pa. 366. Millerton, N. Y. 60, 78. Millville, N. .T. 296. Alilrov, Pa. 346. Miltoii, N. Y. 179. Milton. Pa. 367. Aline Gap Bridge 335. Miueola, N. Y. 49. Mine Ridge 340. Minerva, N. Y. 134, 135. Miuisink, N. Y. 215. Minisink Falls 310. Miunequa Springs 383. Mitchell's Cave 164. Modoc Oil District 358. Mohegan Glen 324. Mohegan, Lake 60. Mohonk, Lake 222. Moira, N. Y. 128. Monocacy, Md. 407. Monroe, N. Y.221. Montauk Poitit 03. Mont Clair, 214, 239. Montezuma Marshes 170. Montgomery, N. Y. 2'.i2. -Montgomery Pa 367. Montgomery Place 82. Monticello, 215, 224. Montoursville 367. Montreal, Can. 121,200. Black Nunnery 123. Bonsecours Market 123. Christ Church Cathedi-al 125. Court House 123. Gesa, Cnurch of the 124, Gray Nunnery 125. Lachine Rapids 120. McGill College 125. Notre Dame 123. St. Helen's Lsle 124. St. Patrick's 124. Trinity Church 124. Victoria Bridge 126. Victoria Square 123. Montrose, N. J. 239. Montrose, Pa. 316. Mooer's .Function 126. Moosehead 312. Moosehead Mt. 148. Moose Pond 151. Moose River 155. Moravia, N. Y. 201, 319. Moriah, N. Y. 115. Moriches, 48, 51. Mm-risania, N. Y. 57. Morrisburgh 197. Morrison's Cove 348, 350. .Morristown, N. .7. 240 Morristown, N. Y. 159, 195. Morrisville, N. Y. 216. Morrisville, Pa. 261. Moscow, Pa. 246, Mott Haven 57. Moundsville, W. Va. 414. Mount Airy, Md. 407. Mount Alto, Pa. 376. Mount Carbon, Pa. 3-34. Mount Carmel, Pa. 311. Mount Holly, N.J. 293. Mount Holly Springs 375. 460 Mount Joy 342. ^iouIlt Kisco, N. Y. 59. Moimt Morris 230. Mount Pleasant, Pa. 364. Mount St. Vincent 64. Mount Union, Pa. 347 Mount Vernon, Va. 450. Mountain, ^Eolus 103. Ampersand 146. Antliony 133. Belreil 121. Black 1U8. Boreas Spires 137. Camels Hump 142. Defiance 112. Dix Peak 13G, 137. Elk, Md. 408. Equinox 103. c;i.int of the Valley 141. Independence 113. Mclutyre 137. Warcy 138, 144. Merino 83. Miu.>;i 243. Mitchell 291. Oranpre 239. Overlook 81. Oxvl-s He:id 151. Pharaoh 135. Pi.-^gah 30y Prospect 108. St. Regis 140. Schooley's 242. Seward 137. Storm King 76. Sugar Ijoaf 72. Tammany 243. Taurus 75. Tongue 108. Vision 324. Wallface 137. Mountains, Adirondack 137. Boquet 116, 136. Catortin, Md. 407. C'atskill 90. Ilelderberg 85, 329. Highlands 71- Kayaderosseras 134. Mattcawan 76. Ramapo 214. 221. Shawanguuk76,215,222 West 151. Mud Lake 149. Mud Pond 137, 144. Muirkirk, Md. 418. Muncy, Pa. 367. Musconetcong, Mt. 251. Mu.'^ki-at Castle 325. Muskrat Lake, 132. Myerstown, Pa 253. Nanuet, N. Y. 220. Napeague Beach 53- INDEX. Naples.N.Y. 203,229. Narrows, the 46, 108. Narrows, Long 346. Narrows burg 224. Nash Lake 145. Natuml Bridge 158. Naumburgh, N. Y. 157. Navesink Highlands N. J 291. Navy Island, 181. Nazareth, Pa. 303. Nesquehoning Valley 320. I Nevis, N. Y. 66. Newark, Del. 388. Newark, N. J. 239,254. Newark, N. Y. 171. New Baltimore 84. New Berlin 216 New Brighton, N. Y. 45. New Brun.swick 257. Newburgh, N. Y. 76, 221. iNewca.-lantati€i( darky music, etc. Sudreau's French Restaurant is N.W. of Memorial Hall, and ha8« main saloon 100 X 50 ft. in area and 15 private rooms. Meals d la ca'ri\ The Vienna Bakery and Coffee- House is E. of Memorial Hull, and 142 X 105 ft. in area. It is conducted by Cincinnatians, and giy. coffee, pastry, and lunches. The Neio-Kngland Log-Cabin and Kitchen is near the Women's Pav ion, and gives Yankee dishes cooked in the ancient manner. The Dairy is near Horticultural Hall, surrounded with slirul)l)ery ait fountains. Milk, cream, buttermilk, curds and whey, pastry, and lierriti are served here by 100 young women, " in the picturesque costume Normandy dairy-maids." The Hebreio Restaurcmt is near the Japanei; Building, and serves food according to the Mosaic restrictions. The Tm> ish Coffee-House sells fragrant coffee and sherbet. Amusements. — Theodore Thomas gives his renowned orchestral music ^ performers) at tlie corner of Broad and Master Sts. The adjacent Edwin-Forrfli mansion is used for a restaurant and cafe. The concert-liall accoiinnudatcs 4,Q|,i persons. — The Globe Concert-Garden (t)iierti's Tropical Garden) is S. "t tlie GloSi Hotel, and acconunodates 9,000 ])ersous. Afternoon and evening concerts are giv^ liere by 100 musicians, led by Ollenbach and other eminent masters, and saciV' concerts on Sunday evenings (50c. ; no reserved seats). The new tlicatiu is T' ther down Belmont Ave. Cafes-chantants, beer-gardens, and other side-sh«| are almost countless in number. L Notable Events. — May 10, opening of the Exhibition ; May 15-27, billia-;: tournament in Horticultural Hall (Broad St.). 3-ball, 300 points up, S? 10,000^ prizes; May 30 -June 2, conchive and parade of Knights Templar, with 15,0i men in line on June 1 ; June 13, gathering o. the Order of Good Templars ; Ji II NOTABLE EVENTS. 3 ■egattas at New York and on the Delaware River, and also international criclcet- niitches ; June 20, Schiitzenfest, with 5,000 German riflemen ; July 2, Congress .f Authors, in Independence Hall; July 4, immense military display, headed by he Centennial Legion, which is composed of elite companies from each of the ■Id 13 States ; grand parade of Irish societies on the same day ; July 8, parade of he Order of United American Mechanics ; July 10, International Cliess Congress ; uly 12 and 13, parades of the Orange Association ; Aug. 2, National Assoc, of imerican Oarsmen meeting, followed by I'egattas, canoe-races, etc. ; Aug. 16, reat German festivities, Hermann's anniversary ; Aug. 22, parade of Knights of 'ythias ; Aug. 28, arrival of the Connecticut militia; International Regatta, Aug. to Sept. 15 ; Sept. 4, International Medical Congress ; Sept. 1-8, bench-show of porting and other dogs; Sept. 20, parade of Odd- Fellows. In Sejitember also ccur the international rifle-matches and a grand Eisteddfod, or Welsh musical sstival. Agricultural Displays. —Yegetuhles, May 16-24; strawberries, honey, and 'ax, June 7-15; butter and cheese, June 13-17 ; early vegetables, June 20-24; •lowing-machines, tedders, and hay-rakes, June 15 - 30 ; raspberries and black- erries, July 3-8; reaping-machines, July 5-15; Southern pomological pro- ucts, July 18-22; melons, Aug. 22-26; peaches, Sept. 4-9; apples and pear.s, ept. 11 -i6; horses, Sept. 1-14; vegetables, Sept. 19-26; neat cattle, Sept. 21- >ct. 4; cereals, Sept. 25-30; potatoes and roots, Oct. 2-7; .sheep and swine, •ct. 10-18; butter and cheese, Oct. 17-21; nuts, Oct. 23 - Nov. 1; honey and rax, Oct. 23- Nov. 1; poultry, Oct. 27 -Nov. 6. Horse-races at Point-Breeze Park, May 23 - 28, June 13 - 16, July 5 - 14, Aug, 15 - 9, Sept. 12-16, Oct. 10 - 14 ; also at Suffolk Park, large purses ; and at Belmont 'ark. Tlie "West-Point Cadets, 7th New York Regiment, Connecticut First Brigade, nd (4her military bodies will encamp near the grounds at different times, and ave brilliant dress-parades. Many Indians are expected to come on, with their igwams and lodges. Several Syrian Arabs are on the grounds, with Jaj>anese nd Chinese gentlemen and laborers. French and German mechanics, soldiers of reat Britain, Holland, Spain, and other remarkables are also seen. Routes. — The routes to Phila. are given in previous pages, except the ound-lirook Line from New York, recently opened. Its stations are : New Yh<->tograiihs of cities a); scenery. They were contributed by the 14 Argentine States, and were first i hibited in Buenos Ayres. . To the S. is the delicately colored pavilion of Chili, with divisions for its .-^ provinces, emblazoned with armorial devices, and adorned with a gigantic stufll^i condor, from Aconcagua. There are exquisite collections of ores, gold, sim^ copper, tin, etc., sulphur, salt, alum, coarse cl< ths, copper utensils, earthenwae-i strnw hats, and 100 varieties of wine. ^ Peru is more to the S.. and exhibits gold and silver ores, borax, saltpe» cotton, sugar, Piscoppor utensils, and si»af> mens of guano. To the S. is the space reserved for the Orange. Free State. s MAIN BUILDING. 5 N. of the "W. entrance is Italy, which has 926 exhibitors, from all parts of the kingdom. She shows canned goods, fine hams, macaroni, beers, olive-oil, a rich assortment of wines, cordials, books, models, velvets, silks, flannels, feather- work, gloves, prints, corals, cameos, mosaics, inlaid wood, Venetian glass, rich jewels, gold and silver filagree, etc. Japan is E. of the Argentine Confederation, in the central nave, and shows ivory goods, gold, lacquer-work, home-made artillery, rich bronzes and brilliant porcelains, minerals, ores, woods, rare Kaga vases, silks, embroideries, and manu- factured goods. China is S. of Japan and E. of Peru, and has an odd and graceful pavilion, singularly frescoed with Chinese scenes, and divided into several courts. It ex- hibits pottery, Hankow petroleum, pictures, Newchong furs, images, coins, rich costumes, dyes, and large and elaborate carvings in wood and ivory. Norway is N. of Japan, in the central nave, and has rich trophies of furs, textile fabrics, and silver, an iron model of a Viking ship and warrior, aerolites, snow-shoes, cod-liver oil, fish-nets, tankards, quaint old carved furniture, curri- cles, nails (forming an iron calf), wood-pulp, carved wood, silverware, and steel manufactures. Sweden is E. of Norway, with an artistic itavilion, showing fine granite and marble work, carved wood, terra-cotta vases, manufactured goods, shot and shell, car-wheels, and a great variety of steel wares and heavy castings. There is also a geological map of the kingdom, with minerals and ores. Denmark is in the nave, E. of Japan, and has a small exhibit of articles of home pi-oduction and manufacture. Turkey is E. of Denmark, and has only a small collection, on account of the Herzegovinian war. The reserves for Tunis and the Sandwich Islands are S. of Denmark and Turkey, opposite China. • Tlte massive and sombre pylon of Egypt is E. of Turkey, in the central nave, and shows a large collection of rich drapery, bullion-mounted saddles and bridles, embroidered table-spreads, delicate cabinet-work, costly furniture, and jiational antiquities. Here also is the Soudan collection, weapons, utensils, fishing-tackle, musical instruments, palm-leaf mats and hats, and 2 immense elephants' tusks. Portugal is S. of Egypt, with a fair exhibit, including home productions and manufactures, wines, fruits, etc. Spain is E. of Egypt, with a striking fagade, adorned with banners, busts, trophies, and paintings, the word Espana being over the jiortal, with a painting of 8i)ain discovering America, and clusters of Moorish shields and standards. The exhibition of Spanish products is i-ich and interesting. Kussia is E. of Spain, but her representation is not commensurate with her power aud wealth. This department is belated. The British Colonies ai-e N. of this line, across the nave. Canada exhibits a beautiful educational pavilion, many articles of iron-work, cutlery, boats, plated ware, carved woods, a general line of manufactured goods, and a rare col- lection of costly furs. Nova Scotia sends 60 minerals, gold, iron, coal, limestone, and wares made therefrom, and 11 ship-models, with other marine goods. Brit- ish Columbia has some remarlcable slabs of thick trees. Jamaica has a small ex- hibition. The Cape of Good Hope sends her mineral and vegetable productions, many varieties of wines, and articles showing the customs of the people. India shows grains, woods, dyes, rices, seeds, opium, cereals, medical herbs, spices, beautiful silks, cloth of gold, and other ethnological curiosities. Australia is strong in her lines of ores, wool, ingots, woods, and illustrative paintings. New South Wales shows coal, gold, and wood. Queensland has gold, copper, tin, geo- logical specimens, rare woods, grains, coal, colored photographs of her scenery and people, a pyramid of tin ingots, aud a gold-covered obelisk representing the amount of gold found in Queensland siu(>e 186S (■•^35,000,000). The centre of the building is occui)ied by the four great powers, — Great Brit- ain, Germany, France, and the United States. Great Britain is alongside her colonies, N. W. of the central space, on vvhicli siie has a crescent-shaped front, where are displayed the choicest works of Elkington, the London silver- smith. Back of this is a superb display of pottery and porcelain, terra-cotta, majolica, faience, china, and other ceramic wares, — forming one of the most brilliant scenes in the building. A few of the thousands of articles in the British court are combs, cutlery, urns, vases, statuettes, quilts and covers, carved wood, musical instruments, type, guns, powder, dry goods, perfumery, drugs, colors 6 MAIN BUILDING. and dyes, and paper boxes. Scotland has an interesting division, with red, blu gray, pink, and brown polished granite, Parian and terra-cotta statuary, vase gilt lecterns, pebble jewelry, linen and damask goods, etc. The Wales section also full of quaint interest. Austria is S. of the nave, and E. of Russia, with a pavilion handsome ornamented with stained glass, and has over 500 exhibitors, showing leathe bronze, meerschaum, mother-of-pearl, amber, and woollen goods. There are al.' the gloves of Prague, the ivories of Vienna, silks, shawls, lustres, girandole mirrors, divans, carpets, Bohemian glassware, carved pipes in rich variety, an a great tablet of oleomargarine. Germany occupies the S. W. side of the central space, and has a gracefi! pavilion with a green glass dome, ribbed with velvet. She exhibits rich porcelaii imintings and vases of Berlin, ivory carvings, I.eipsic furs, spice oils, Dresde pai-quetry, wines from 87 llhine vineyards, furniture from 30 hrms. 1.36 lirn show books, 24 show lithographic stones and work. There are also Elberfel j wares, aniline colors, Stuttgart woodwork, bronzes, Nuremberg toys (35 exhib tors), daintily arranged chemicals (40 exhibits), perfumery, cigars, various cloths silks, velvets, satins, a model of the steamer Frisia, etc. Krupp has sent als an immense gun, weighing 47 tons, adapted for a 1,600 lb. ball; also a model of section of German railway. France also fronts on the central space, having a crescent formed by ric Alpine and Pyrenean marbles, backed by the artistic bronzes of De Susses Neve and rare faience. She has over 2,000 exhibitors, with a vast amount of orns mental goods, furniture, Gobain plate glass, ribbons, perfumery, immense Sevrei vases, costumes, weapons, etc. Switzerland has a pretty little chalet, with over 500 exhibitors, displayinj clocks and watches, embroidery, laces, wood carvings, straw goods, chemicals jewelry, photographs, silks, cottons, and an educational de]»artnient. Belgium is E. of Switzerland, and has a large and creditable show, includin musical instruments, weapons, clocks, cloths, almost every variety of manu factured goods, and an exquisitely beautiful carved pulpit. Brazil lifts large and imposing Moorish pavilions, brilliant in colors and gold E. of Belgium, in the nave. She has the largest and best South-American diS play, witii cotton and woollen cloths, silks, wall-paper, saddles, bronzes, chemi cals, sugar, wines, liquors, precious stones, woods, building stones, metals, fans feather-work, photographs, etc. The Netlierlands, to the E. of- Brazil, show books, pipes, Leyden scentec soaps, flax, flour and starch, Deventer carpets, minerals, oils, liqueurs, Geldroj linens, plans of public works, etc. The Dntch East-Indian Colonies display their products in a mosque, which ii dazzlingly brilliant in gold and color. Mexico is E. of the Netherlands, and has not been prevented by her civi wars from taking her part well. She shows manufactured silks, woollens, coi ton, cigars, silver filagree, natural productions, marbles, ores of Durango am Zimapan iron, meteoric stones, coal, onyx, and a mass of pure Potosi silvei. weighing 4,200 lbs. and valued at $72,000. Rich native costumes are displayed views and maps of the volcanic district ; and a collection of the writings ol Mexican authors. The United States of America occupies about \ of the main building At the centre, where it faces Great Britain, Germany, and France, is a dazzling display of jewelry and silverware, by Till'any, Gorham, Caldwell, etc. A few among the immense variety of goods shown are rich perfumes, cloths of ever> kind. New York gloves, Cohoes woollens, scented soaps in huge bars, bronzt oi-naments, Remington's and other tire-arms, colored marbles and granites, ricli Colorado ores, Pennsylvania coal and iron, Massachusetts cutlery and textih fabrics, Connecticut tools and utensils, the sparkling Meriden Britannia display^ the ores and minerals of the Lehigh Valley, electrical apparatus, fine white-wirt goods, gold-leaf decorations. Oregon woods, Ohio coal, chandeliers, billiard- tables, native wines, polished plates, polished granite work, rope, clothing, locks ribbons, glassware, plate and stained glass, stoves, Auburn carpets, alpacas, mohairs, shirts, aniline dyes, essential oils, New- York soaps, watches, the min erals, grains, birds, and woods of New Jersey, Millville glass, Newark manu- factures, the resources of Kansas. Near the S. W. comer of the building is the MACHINERY HALL. 7 two-story iron pavilion of the American book-sellers, with its fine exhibit of literary wealth. The Massachusetts marine department has interesting models and boats, canoes, and batteaux. Near tlie E, end of the building is the section given to pianos and organs of all sizes, styles, and makers. Machinery Hall is W. of and near the Main Building, and is 360 X 1,402 ft. in area, with several annexes and boiler-houses. It contains 14 acres of flooring, and is divided by two main avenues and numerous wide aisles. It is 40-70 ft. high, with side-projections, fa9ades at the ends, and Louvre ventilators above. The materials are timber and glass, and the cost was $ 512,300. Double lines of shafting run above each avenue, and down the aisles, and steam-power is furnished free to all exhibitors. In the N. E. tower is a chime of 13 bells, on which tunes are played at siuirise, noon, and sunset. The motive-power of nearly all the machin- ery is furnished by an enormous Corliss engine from Providence, which weighs 800 tons and was brought on 65 freight cars. It is of 1,600 horse- power, is beautifully finished and in parts polished, and moves like clock-work. The exhibits of foreijirn nations are in the E. part of the hall, towards the Main Building. Great Britain shows a monstrous Glasgow sugar-mill, delicate Jaccjuard silk-looms, jute-dressers, steam-derricks, cotton-machines, steam-ham- mers, a Cornish pumping-engine, looms, sewing-machines, card-looms, road-loco- motives, spindles, mules, engraving machinery, armor-plates, the famous Walter press, etc. Belgium shows rock-boring and crushing machinery, a coal-breaker, several looms, a general assortment from Ghent, and the handsome Corliss engine of the Belgian Mint. Germany has 74 exliihitors, and shows several sewmg- niachines and some singular gas-motors. S-weden has two steam-engines and a large show of stoves and furnaces. France discredits herself by her insigniti- cant display. Brazil shows artillery, muskets, a model of an arsenal, and other martial ob- jects. Canada has an interesting section, with numerous machines for various purposes, and several well-built canoes. The United States occupy by far the greater part of the hall, and display a vast number of machines of all kinds. Delaware shows car-wheels and railroad castings, wood-carving machinery, a 'patent puddler, etc. New York has over 100 exhibitors, of varied uses ; Providence has several articles ; Charleston sends an immense cotton-press ; Pittsburgh has the Westinghouse air-brakes ; Worces- ter sends weaving-looms ; Baltimore appears with a hominy-mill ; New Bruns- wick, N. J., with a caleudering-machine ; Waltham with watch-machinery ; Chi- cago with hydraulic works ; and Philadelphia with a great variety of powerful machines. At the W. end of the hall are the pavilions and pagodas of the sewing- machine makers. There are 15 railroad locomotives, made at Philadelphia, Pat- erson, Scranton, Oswego, Pittsburgh, and other places. The different companies in this line have vied with each other to produce powerful and handsome engines. The hydraulic engines are in an aimex, where they are worked by a waterfall 35 ft. liigh and 40 ft. wide, constantly iilunging from a lake-like tank which is kept full by a multitude of pumps on exhibition. Memorial Hall, or the Art Gallery, is 300 ft. N. of the Main Building, on a terrace 122 ft. above the Schuylkill. It is 365 X 210 ft. in area (cov- ering 1^ acres) and 59 ft. high, with a dome 150 ft. high, crowned by a colossal statue of Columbia, with statues below representing the four quar- ters of the world. The dome is lighted at night, and is then visible for ' many miles. The main front is to the S., consisting of 3 immense arch- 8 ART GALLERY. ways (40 ft. high) opening on a terrace, which is reached by steps and is flanked on either side by colossal bronze statues of Pegasus, held in check by draped female figures. Clustered columns stand by the doors, and ar- cades join the side pavilions to the centre. The doors are of iron, bearing the arms of all the States and Territories, with the U. S. arms in the frieze. There are large pavilions at the corners of the building, each of which has 2 windows 12J X 34 ft. in area, destined for stained glass and glass paintings. The pavilions are joined to the centre by ornamented arcades Avhich are used as promenades and command views of the inner gardens. The N. front has 12 windows and an entrance ; the E. and W. fronts show the pavilions, the walls of the galleries, and an elaborate frieze. At the N. is the Grand Balcony, 275 X 45 ft. in area and 40 ft. high, forndng a pleasant promenade. The halls are 82 X 60 ft., and 53 ft. high ; and the central hall is 83 ft. square and 80 ft. high, under an inner dome, or suspended ceiling, of galvanized iron. The floors are all of mar- ble, and the walls are decorated in the neo-classic style. The great clock strikes the hours, and gives the month, date, and day. The galleries open to E. and W., each being 98 X 48 ft., and 35 ft. high. With the central rotunda they form a great hall 287 X 83 ft. in area. The minor galleries are each 89 X 28 ft. in area, and 23 small studios and exhibition- rooms open to the N. from the main galleries. The galleries give 75,000 square ft. of wall-space, lighted from above through double skylights of clear and ground glass. Memorial Hall is built of a light pearly granite, glass, and iron, in Re- naissance architecture. It cost $1,500,000-2,000,000, which was paid by Pennsylvania and Philadelphia. The building is to remain perma- nently, as a memorial of the century celebration. This hall was found to be too small to accommodate all the Avorks of art which were thought worthy of exhibition, and so an annex was built on the N., with even more wall-space than there is in Memorial Hall. In the centre of the rotunda is the immense statue of America, a copy of that on the Albert Memorial, at London. Great Britain, Fraiieo, Germany, and tlie United States occupy the 4 corner pavilions. Great Britain has 5 rooms, in- cluding tlie N. W. ijavilion, and exhibits over $ 1,000,000 worth of paintings (in- cluding 197 works). Queen Victoria contributes live, which are guarded by V)olice- men. Among them are the Marriage of the Prince of Wales, by Frith, and tlie Death of AVolfe, by West. Among the other paintings are the Banquet-Scene in Macbeth, Madise ; On the Hills, the Anxious Mother, Ansdell ; Julian and the Sectarians, Armitage ; Adam and Eve, Barry; After the Battle, and Desdemona, Caldcron; Morning, Calcatt; the Lock, Con^tuhle; the Goodwin Light-ship, and the Rescued Barque. Cooke; Sleeping Nymph and Satyrs. Etty ; God's Acre, and Baith Faither and Mither, Faed ; Pamela, and the Railway Station, Frith; Thor Battling the Serpent, Frcseli ; the Duchess of Richmond, Gninsboroiigh ; Viscount Hardinge in India, Grant; Hannah More, Ople; Christ Blessing Little Children, West; Reading the Gazette, Wilkie ; Convalescence, the Mummy, and the Vin- tage Festival, Abim Tadema; Lenore, Elmore; Griselda, Cope; Sir Joshua Rey- nolds, by himself; Abelard, Newton; Samson and Delilah, Rigavd ; Thought, Sent; George Washington, S'artfix>ldi " CvZurnhus • » \2 A.2 A2 Al J^2 A.3 JL3 J3.2 :b.2 A3 A3 A.3 :b.2 C.2 C.3 C.3 C.2 J5.3 0.3 j^.a B.3 C.S A3. :b.2 C.3 C.2 0.3 J).3 7W 7> l^ycs Jles^auran^ ?>.2 A/?tC7*lc€Ui 1' IB J SudT'ooAc- ft C. 2 SoiJitheT'rz »» B.2 53 Sedreyv •> A-^ 54 JVmrJ^^lfmxlJmnJijcr?. _^.2 55 TTemit/Jia/cf?ry J^ 3 56 Gdjbe J/oiel C.-* 57 Jfrfzis-O^nMyicr^^alSdisl C4 58 VhMerCShz^es », 1>.'1* 59 J*ert^JiJi. Sta/z^n. C.4 60 Tlecu/z^JiJi- »' W.2 ^\an of t)^ Centennial-EIxi'ositioii fonnrrti'fut 20 Mftry'Om^ 21 J)fJtfM'nrr' 22 JorkansrttS' 23 New^Jyrk 24 ^RsscntH 26 T^ansas 27 yA^»*'t7e/w Bebrevv 49 50 6/ 5? 53 54 J^(>wI^//tf/rfxtJ&T:hcn. 55 56 57 56 59 60 C.l c.2 B.2 A.2 B.2 ]>.3 Vtpnrtx/ Jiakf^ry Gfji>be Iloiel PermJUi. SiajUon, C.4 ART GALLERY. 9 Holman Hunt, Sir John Gilbert, Prinsep, Boughton, Cheswick, Domett, Leslie, Poynter, Northcote, Leightou (Oriental scenes), Hilton, Horseley, Stone, Ward, Archer, and many others. But few of these are on sale, most of them having been loaned from the ancestral halls and galleries of Great Britain. There are 56 water-color pictures, by Tadema, Absalon, Cattermole, May, Lin- ton, Sniallheld, Read, Severn, Tliorburn, Hayne, Goodall, and other masters. In sculpture, there are the Venus, of Gibson; Benjamin West, Outntrey ; three groups, by Lord Gower ; Flaxman, Bailey ; Spartan Boy, D'Epinay, etc. Germany sends the Flight of the Winter King, Bu Faur ; the Orphans, Lasck ; the Surrender at Sedan, Braun ; Lady Jane Grey, FoUngby ; and several scenes from th« Franco-Prussian war. There are only about 50 paintings, by Meyer, Kaulbach, Becker, Gtiterbock, Amberg, Schauss, Begas, Jordan, Plockhorst, ancl others. In the disi)lay of sculi^ture are Brunnow's Von Moltke and Schvjeinilz's Crown Prince. France has done herself no honor in the art department, the paintings being mostly by artists of but little fame. The Government has, however, sent a rich display of Gobelin tapestries (Penelope, La Peche, etc.), and some beautiful Sevres ware, vases, cups, etc. Italy exhibits numei-ous rich pictures and over 300 marble statues, many of which were executed by Albacini, D'Epinay, Rosetti, Popatti, Romanello, Cambi, Botticelli, and others of the native sculptors of Rome, Florence, and Milan, with bronze statuary by Prof. Papi. Wood-carving and Venetian crystal are also well represented. There are 11 exquisite mosaic pictures by Signor Moglia, of Rome, " the Raphael of Mosaic Art." The Pope has sent a tiii)estry representing St. Agnes on the Wheel, and mosaic copies of Raphael's Madonna della Seggiola and Sassoferrato's Madonna. Kelgium. sends 180 oil-paintings and many water-colors, with several quaint old carvings of religious subjects. The i)aintings are mostly (/erere, and IVitt- kamp's Parisina is perhaps tlie most noteworthy. Holland contributes 146 paintings, mostly of the Dilsseldorf school, with copies (jf Paul Potter's Bull and other famous pictures. This disi)lay is large and brilliant. Spain has about 140 paintings, mostly from Madrid and Barcelona, including several very valuable works loaned from the national gallery by King Alfonso. Austria has about 200 paintings, by Angell, Russ, Canon, Friedlander, Felix, Buhhneyer, Lichtenfels, Schon, and others. The gems of this collection are tlie Caterina Cornaro and the Abundantia, of Maclcaert. Austria also contributes 40 pieces of statuary. Norway makes a very fine show with pictures by her best masters, including Gude's marines, Tidevuind's village-scenes, Arbo, Suiding, and others. The sculp- tures are by Christian Borg and other artists. Sweden is represented by numerous excellent genre pictures. Russia has a fair display, including several works by Simon de Skirmount. Bavaria sends a few pictures from the Munich Art Gallery. Mexico shows a few brilliant paintings, including the splendid Valley of Mexico, by Vdasco. Canada also has a creditable display of works by her native artists. The United States is largely represented in this department, and, on the whole, creditably, though some of her leading artists have declined to contribute, on account of professional misunderstandings. Many new pictures are exhibited, and some of the best works from the private galleries. The selections have been made with much care by a painstaking and resolute jury of artists. The Amer- ican section is especially strong in landscape and statuary. Over 100 water- colors are shown in a separate gallery, including the works of Titfany, Gilford, Bellows, Richards, Boughton, Swain, Colraan, Hennessey, and others. A part of the American show is in the great annex. The Historical Museum occupies two large rooms. in the annex, and en- deavors to illustrate the colonial history of the 13 original States by flags, medals, portraits, and other antiquitie.s. Virginia, New Hampshire, and Massa- chusetts have large and interesting collections ; and other States also make worthy displays. Ten paintings and other memorials of the Washington family have been secured, with many quaint old books and ancestral porti'aits. Small collections of Indian and Mexican antiquities have also been made in this department. 10 AGRICULTURAL HALL. The Agricultural Hall is N. of the Horticultural Hall, beyond the Belmout Ravine. It is 820 X 540 ft. in area (covering 10^ acres), and is built of glass, tin, and wood, in semi-Gothic architecture, Avitli a green roof. The roof is supported by Howe trusses 75 ft. high, and its lines are broken by several high towers. Large chandeliers depend from the cathedral-like pointed arches. The nave is 820 ft. long and 125 ft. wide, and is intersected by 3 broad transepts. The exhibits include the multi- farious products of the field and forest, agricultural objects, land and marine animals, fish culture, economic animal and vegetable products, textile substances, etc. The great aquaria for food-fishes are on the W. side of the building. The natural-history department has casts of the enormous megatherium, a fossil armadillo, the skull of a mastodon, the skull and tusks of the Elejihasis Ganisea (18 ft. long), the Guadaloupe fossil-man, saurians, fossil bird-tracks, shells, etc. The zoological depart- ment has stuff'ed ostriches, elk, moose, hump-backed camels, tigers, and many other remarkable animals. The displays of cereals, vegetables, fruits, nuts, and such matters, are large and interesting. Among the nations which have secured space in this buildings and have made exhibits of their native grains and fruits, are Great Britain, France, Germany, Austria, Norway, Sweden, Russia, Belgium, Holland, Spain, Italy, China, Jai>an, Venezuek, Chili, Brazil, Mexico, Peru, Canada, Denmarl<, Portugal, and the Argentine Republic. Great Britain, Spain, Chili, and Brazil have large and interesting collections. The following have systematic State exhibits ; Missouri, Michigan, Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin, Connecticut, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, Oregon, Washington Territory, New Jersey, West Virginia, Delaware, Ohio, Kentucky, Florida, and Iowa. These collections were made up lay the respective State Agricultural Boards. The Pomological Building is N. E. of the Agricultural Hall, and is 180 X 200 ft. hi area. It is for the spring and fall fruits, berries, and vegetables, and is the scene of tempting disiilays of luscious peaches, pears, apples, strawberries, and other dainties. The Brewers' Exliibition Building is near Agricultu- ral Hall, and is 272 X % ft. in area (costing $bO,OUO). It was erected by the U. S. Brewers' Association, and displays barley and malt, hops, and machinery, with an ale-house, breweries,. a malt-house, etc. The American Dairymen's As- eioeiation has a large two-story building E. of Agricultural Hall, in which aro I'utter and the cheese-factory and creamery, with enormous cheeses, oddly shaped lumps of butter, and a public view of the processes of manufacture. Horticultural Hall is on the high ground of Lansdowne Terrace, N. of the Main Building, whence it is reached by a bridge over the Lans- downe Ravine. It Avas built chiefly by the city of Philadelphia, and is to be permanent. The area is 383 X 193 ft. (72 ft. high) ; the materials are stone, brick, glass, and iron ; the architecture is ancient Saracenic, and the cost was over $250,000. The central conservatory is 230 X 80 ft. ia area, and is .surrounded by a gallery. A statue- adorned fountain, by Miss Foley, adorns this court ; and smaller fountains play at the corners. The building is lighted by 3,500 gas-burners in 4 great chandeliers. At the E, and W. ends are restaurants and reception-rooms ; and stairways lead from the vestibule to the far-viewing outer galleries and the prome- nade on the roof. On the N. and S. sides are 4 forcing-houses, each 100 X GOVERNMENT BUILDING. 11 30 ft. in area, covered with curving roofs of iron and glass. The E. and W. portals are reached by blue-marble steps from broad terraces which are adorned with kiosks. 40 acres around the Hall are devoted to floral displays, in which Great Britain, Spain, China, France, Holland, Cuba, Hayti, Jamaica, Bermuda, and the Argentine Republic take part. The rich frescos and traceries, delicate ornaments, and graceful lines of horseshoe arches, make this building the gem of the Centennial grounds- Vast beds of odoriferous and brilliant flowers surround it, showing the fairest of the American and temperate-zone flora. The display of hya- cinths and tulips is notable, and Waterer's great collection of rhododen- drons and azaleas has been sent hither from England. Lachaume has the largest single display, and is on the S. side. Among the tropical trees and plants are rare ferns, agaves, cacti, pimento-plants, cofi"ee-trees, sugar-canes, bananas, pine-apples, orange and lemon trees, cocoanut, date, and royal palms, and many other rich and rare growths, in bloom or fruitage. Annexes have been erected in the vicinity to accommodate the unexpected abundance. The United-States Government Building is on Belmont Ave. oppo- site the Women's Pavilion, and covers over 2 acres. It is of wood and glass, and cost $ 65,000. On the outside are the iron-clad monitor turret (with 2 15- inch guns), a 55-ton 20-inch Rodman gun, 8 and 9 inch guns, breech-loading rifled cannon, howitzers, ambulances, forges, and baggage- wagons, a long building for experiments in shooting and testing powder, and a post-hospital fitted for service, containing 24 beds, with drugs and medicines, hospital stores, surgical instruments, medical books and speci- mens, and models of hospital cars and steamships. The War Department makes a large display. The Ordnance Bureau shows heavy artillery out-doors, liglit guns, the Gatling mitrailleuse, ancient wall- pieces, muskets and breech-loading rifles, revolvers and sabres, cartridges, pow- der, projectiles, and the actual process of manufacturing Springfield rifles, by delicate machinery. Lay-figures illustrate the armaments and uniforms of Ameri- can soldiers in 1776, ^1812, 1846, 1861, and 1876. The Engineer Bureau shows machinery, pontoon, sfege, and mining appliances, maps and charts, models of light-houses, photographs of tield-works in war-time, etc. The Quartermaster's Bureau exhibits army clothing, camp and garrison equipage, harnesses, wagon and ambulance trains, and similar articles. The Signal Service is represented by an office completely fitted up and in operation, with a telegraphic train of wagons. The Navy Department shows small and great guns, boat howitzers, cut- lasses, pikes, 1,000 samples of shot and shell, models, carronades, and two power- ful and highly polished sloop-ot'-war steam-engines. (The ancient and renowned frigate Constitution is anchored in the Delaware River.) The Interior Department shows models of patents, Indian curiosities, and Powell's admiralile relief-maps of the Grand Canon of the Colorado (60 square feet), the Yosemite Valley, and the Niagara Gorge. The Treasury Depart- ment shows, among other things, tlie delicate machinery of the U. y. Mint, with some of its richest treasures. The Pogt-Office Department has an office in full operation, with money-order and registration offices, boxes, carriers, etc. Under the arrangement of the Smithsonian Institution the United States makes an interesting display of articles, archaeological and ethnological, the ani- mal kingdom, and minerals. The antiquities are mostly those of the Indians and 12 WOMEN'S PAVILION. Hie mound-'builders. An attemjit was made to secure families from each of the 25 aboriginal tribes, to illustrate their domestic life, but it was not carried out. Lay-figures represent Indian encampments, and there is a large collection of primitive weapons and utensils. The animals are stuffed and mounted, and in- clude nmsk oxen, cougars, deer, coyote, buttalo, peccary, mountain goat, moose, elk, caribou, jaguar, crocodile, black, white, and grizzly bears, seals, sea lions, walruses, sea elephants, etc. There is also a rich and very large collection of birds, including bald, gray sea, ring-tailed, golden, and northern sea eagles, Cali- fornian and Mexican vultures, owls, parrots, paroquets, cuckoos, herons, ducks, and myriads of smaller birds. Fishes are shown by 4,500 plaster easts and many photographs, with specimens of seal-skin, walrus tusks, tortoise shells, alligator teeth, whale tusks, otter skins, fish oils, tanned alligator and whale skins, etc. The costumes and modes of attack of the fishermen are also shown by lay- figures ; and there are miniature factories for fish oil and guano, scaling machifies, and drying houses. Another line of cases shows oysters from Prince-Edward Island, the Chesapeake, and the Pacific, clams, mussels, crabs, shrimps, corals, star-fish, sponges, pearl oysters, and smoked pearl. Minerals are fully classified, and among them are masses of silver ore from Ne- vada and Colorado, gold ores from the Sierra mines, iron ores from Missouri and the Atlantic States, copper, quicksilver, salt, etc. There is an obelisk (40 ft. high) of Pennsylvania coal, with the block coal of Indiana, cannel coals of W. Virginia and Kentucky, and other varieties. Petroleum is also shown, in its crude and refined states. The Women's Pavilion is opposite the U. S. Building, on Belmont Ave., and was built by the contributions of American women, at a cost of $ 40,000, The exterior inclines to Moorish architecture, and the interior is colored white and blue. The displays herein are all of women's work, and include costly banners, embroidery, needlework, laces, Revolutionary relics, stained glass, household ornaments, millinery, costumed lay-figures, caskets, etc. Tlie art display is very attractive, containing many decorative designs, charcoal sketches, lithograplis, engravings, slate and porcelain paintings, pen-and-ink sketches, drawings on wood, and paintings in oil and water-colors. Statuary also enters into the exhibit, and Harriet Hosmer has sent from Europe casts of the celebrated Lord-BrownloAV gates, of whicli she was the designer, and her African Sibyl. Signora De Sanctis contributes two fine water-colors ; Adelaide Mariani sends her famous statue of Sappho ; and the Freemans, of Rome, send decorative articles. Tlie Queen and the Princesses of England have also sent speci- mens of their handiwork in embroidery, spinning, drawing, and etching. The Shoe-and-Leather Building is S. of Machinery Hall, and is 300 X 160 ft. in area, having cost about $40,000, most of which was raised in Massachusetts. There are 181 exhibitors of boots and shoes, 115 of sole leather, 31 of morocco and sheepskin, 55 of dressed leathers, 40 of har- nesses, 23 of saddlery hardware, 21 of trunks and valises, 21 of nibber goods, 22 of blacking, 87 of leather and shoe machinery. England, Russia, and Germany have exhibits here. The Wagon-and-Carriage Building is N. of the Main Hall, near Me- morial Hall, and is of wood and corrugated iron, 392 X 277 ft. in area, (costing $53,000), Only pleasure-carriages are admitted, and of the firms exhibiting 75 are American, 11 are English, and 9 are French, besides SMALLER BUILDINGS. 13 small displays from Germany, Italy, Belgium, and Canada. One fourth of the space is devoted to railroad and street cars, parlor and sleeping cars, showing the latest improvements. The Judges' Pavilion fronts on the space between Machinery Hall and tlie Main Building, and is 152 X 113 ft. in area. It cost $ 30,000 and is a handsome piece of architecture, with towers at the corners. Within are audience and lecture halls and galleries, offices, and parlors. The offices of the Centennial Commission and the Board of Finance are oi)posite this building, flanking the chief entrance to the grounds. The World's Ticket and Enquiry Office is between Machinery Hall and the Lake, and is a handsome octagonal structure. It is the head- quarters of Messrs. Cook, Son and Jenkins, the celebrated managers of European excursions. The Centennial National Bank (branch office) is alongside of the main entrance, close to the ^lain Building. The Bankers' Building is near Memorial Hall, and is a neat building with reception and committee rooms, for the use of over 400 bank-officers who subscribed for it. The House of Public Comfort is next E. of the Judges' Pavilion, and is 100 ft. square. It coutaius wriiiug-rooms, baggage-rooius, a news-stand, lavato- ries and toilet-iooius, a head-quarters of messengers, etc., and is a great conven- ience to visitors. The Sheet Metal Pavilion is a singular structure of galvanized iron, on Belmont Ave., oriianieiited with columns and scroll-work. The Philadelphia City Building is near Horticultural Hall ; and the Music Pavilion is to the S. in the Lansdowne Ravine, along whose amphitlieatrical sides full 10,000 people can rest and listen to tlie music. The Pennsylvania Education Hall is near Memorial Hall, and is an oct'igonal buildnig witli dome and wings, in wliicli will be exhibited the school- system of the ytate and tlie articles used therein. Massacliusetts has a similar display in the Main Building. A Kindergarten school-house has also been erected. The Newspaper Pavilion is 67 X 46 ft. in area, Avith a lantern roof and gal- leries tor wrJLfrs. All tiie piiiicrs and periodicals of tlie United tStates are kept here on tile, in light, pigeoii-holed alcoves. The Penn. Bible Society has a build- ing where the .S<'ripiures in all languages are furnished. The Photograph Building is nearly between the Main Building and Memorial Hall, and contains a large display of American i)hotographs, in a hall lighted by skylights. The Centennial Pkotogni'jjhlc Cornpany has a building near the corner or Belmont Ave. and the Avenue oi the Republic, where pictures of the Exhibition buildings are sold. Near Machinery Hall are small buildings for the display of Harrisburg cars, Troy and Phila. stoves, sewing-machines, saw- mill macliinery, glass-making (with great furnaces), heating apparatus, the Louiseau pressed fuel, self-coiling shutters, an oil-well. There are several news- paper ofric.es on the grounds. Lieaard's Kelief-3Iaps of Paris, Naples, Jerusalem, Switzerland, and Italy are on Pouiitaui Ave., and show the chief buildings and natural features in miniature. The Paris is 40 ft. square. There is also a relief-plan of the city of Mexico, with its public buildings, streets, and squares. Sa^vyer's Observatory is on Belmont Hill, beyond Agricultural Hall, and is nearly ^00 ft. high, being ascended by a large steam-elevator (fee 25c.). It com- mands a noble view of the grounds, the city. Laurel Hill, and the Schuylkill Valley. Simil.ir observatorie ; stand on Lemon Hill ami George's Hill, and the old W. Philadelphia stand-jiipc has also been utilized for this purpose. U FOREIGN BUILDINGS. Buildings of Foreign Nations. St. George's House is the head-quarters of the British Commissioners, and is between the Catholic Fountain and George's Hill. It covers 5,000 superficial feet, and is in the half-timbered style of the 16th century, with lath and rough-cut plaster between the beams. The roof is steep and broken in outline, and is covei'ed Avith red tiles ; while heavy stacks of brick chimneys rise above. The quaint windows have small glasses, set in lead, with iron casements. The interior is finished in panelling and English paper, with tiled floors, fireplaces, and high, carved oaken mantels. The massive furniture is all from Great Britain. There are two smaller buildings of similar style adjacent, of which one is for the staff, the other for a kitchen and laundry. They are surrounded by rustic fences, within which are beds of roses, daisies, and daffodils. Bayard Taylor says that " these old Saxon houses, honest and true inside and out, with the utmost integrity of form and decoration, seem to have been taken bodily from Chester or Shrewsbury," The Japanese Building is near St. George's House, and is designed to illustrate domestic life in the land of the Mikado. It was built by car- penters from Yedo, and was first erected in Japan and then shipped to America in sections. It is a rare piece of joiner-work, being held together mainly by dovetails and grooves, and the wood is finely grained and smooth as satin. The roof is of carbonized tiles made from gray earth. The sides are surrounded with lattices. The German-Empire Building is E. of Belmont Ave., near the Lake, and is a well-finished and ornamental structure of brick and stone, one story high. It has a central saloon 32 ft. square and two wings ; and the portal is reached by a stone stairway, and is adorned with statuary. Exotic flowers surround the house. France has erected a costly and imposing pavilion near Memorial Hall, in which she exhibits exquisite models and plans of some of her great public works, — the Brest bridge, the Dinan viaduct, the harbor of Mar- seilles, the Pont-du-Jour viaduct, the Breton light-houses, etc. Adjacent ami exes are for stained glass and articles of bronze. Brazil has a lai'ge building on the W. side of Agricultural Ave., among stately trees. It is surrounded by a balcony and adorned Avith pillars. Portugal has a pavilion on Belmont Ave., W. of Horticultural Hall ; Spain has a Saracenic building and a villa near George's Hill ; Chili has a structure 90 X 40 ft. in area, near Machinery Hall; the elaborate Moorish villa from Morocco is near Horticultural Hall ; and the Celestial carpenters are also erecting a quaint pavilion for China. Sweden has erected a school-house near the Judges' Pavilion, to illus- trate hei- system of education, with its furniture, chai'ts, and apparatus. It is called the best i)iece of cr.rpenter-work on ihc groumls, and was built STATE BUILDINGS. 15 by Swedish workmen, of polished and unpainted Swedish wood. The windows are arched, with swinging sashes; and the peaked roof overhangs the sides. The State Buildings are on and near State Avenue, which is on the S. side of George's Hill. They are for headquarters for the commissioners and citizens of the vari- ous States, and have convenient parlors, halls, etc. Arkansas has an octagonal pavilion, W. of the British buildings, with a dome 50 ft. high. The building is of wood, glass, and iron, and will contain many articles of interest from the State. West Virginia is opposite the Catholic fountain, and has a plain structure. Here also is the unoccupied space for Missouri. Mississippi has a semi-rustic log-house, near the Japanese buildings, embellished with curiously twisted boughs and vines. Virginia refused to make an appropriation for the Exposition, but one of her people has erected a neat cottage, with a broad veranda, for the use of Virginians. New York has a modern villa, finely located N. of tlie British build- ings, with cupola and piazza. It is roomy and well lighted, and is a rep- resentative American summer house. Delaware is N, of New York, on State Ave., and is 90 X 75 ft. in area, with a cupola 50 ft. high. It has a public hall, and parlors for ladies and gentlemen. Maryland is just E. of Delaware, and has one of the last houses built. Massachusetts is E, of Maryland, and has a two-story house of rural colonial architecture, with steep roof, dormer windows, low rear-wall, and observatory. It has been dubbed " The Witches' Castle," and Bayard Taylor calls it " an astonishing structure of the most exclusive Boston- Brahminical aspect." The furniture is all from Massachusetts; and the building contains rooms for the Governor, State commissioners, newspajfer press, post-office, toilet-rooms, etc. The main hall seats 600 people, and there are seats in the gardens for 500 more. Connecticut is E. of Massachusetts, and has a quaint and cosey little cottage, in the half-timber style of Gothic dwellings. It was designed by Donald G. Mitchell (Ik Marvel), and is 40 ft. square, with a front of shingles, timbers, and plaster, a projecting second story, a broad porch, bearing Connecticut's arms and motto, an old-fasliioned hatch-door, a deep dormer-window, side-balconies, verandas, and a low rear-wall. In- side it is finished with wood, and has parlors and a comfortable reception- room, with antique fireplaces. The building is surrounded with the trees of Connecticut, New Hampshire is E. of Connecticut, and has a spacious villa, sur- rounded with verandas, and furnished Avitli pleasant interior ofiices. W'' C3 BURNETT'S KALLISTON, As a Wash for the Complexion, has no equal. It is distinguished for its cooling and soothing properties, and is admirably adapted to all unnatural conditions of the skin. THE KALLISTON IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED AS A Wash for the Head, Cooling, cleansing, and refreshing. After Shaving, Softening the beard, and rendering the skin smooth. For Bites of Mosquitoes and other Insects, Neutralizing the poison almost instanta- After Sea-Bathing, Believing the disagi^eeaUe action of the salt water and the sun. For Chapped Hands, An elective application. In the Nursery, Peculiarly adapted to the bathing of in- fants. A few drops sufficient for a bowl of water. This preparation renders the skin soft, thereby relieving its glandular parts, and inducing that^Me action of the capillaries which imparts both beauty and health to the complexion. It may be relied upon for promoting a healthy condition of the skin and beautifying the complexion. ADVER TJSEME NTS. PORTLAND STEAIi PACKET COI^PANY. DAILY LIKE OP FiRST-CLlSS STEAMERS BETWEEN Boston and Portland THROUGHOUT THE YEAK. One of the first-class steamers of this Line, JOHN BROOKS, - - FALMOUTH, - - FOEEST CITY, Will leave India Wharf, Eoston, EVERY EVENING, Sundays excepted, connectiug, on arrival at Portland, with railway trains for North Conway, White Mountains, Gorham, N. H., Montreal, QUEBEC, AND AI.I. PARTS OF CANADA. ALSO WITH STEAMERS FOR Bangor, Mt.IJesert, Machias, Halifax, N. S., Prince Edward Island, Cape Breton, and St Johns, N. F. Returning, leave Portland EVERY EVENING for Boston (Sundays excepted). ^W^ Tlirougli Tickets to tlie above points sold on board the steamers. The Steamers of this line are well ftirnishcd, and have a large number of elegant and airy State-rooms, and tourists will find this A MOST PLEASANT ROUTE TO THE IVIQUHTAINS, COMBINING A SHORT SEA-TRIP AND A RAILWAY RIDE. TIME or SAILING. Jjeave Boston, in Summer, at 7 P. M. In Winter, at 5 P. M. " Portland, at 7 P. M. throughout the year. WBI. WEEKS, Agent, J. B. COYtE, Jr., Gen. Ag't, INDIA WHARF, FRANKLIN WHARF, lioston. Portland. AD VERTISEMENTS. ^^g^£^>^-^ u AMERICAN" s®BT©a, CENTRALLY LOCATED. COT^-TAINS OVER FOUR HTJIS^DRED ROOMS. SUITES AND SINGLE APARTMENTS, WITH BATHING AND WA- TER CONVENIENCES ADJOINING. PARTICULARLY DESIRABLE FOR FAMILIES AND SUMMER TOURISTS. PASSENGER ELEVATOR IN CONSTANT OPERATION. READING-ROOM, BILLIARD-HALLS, AND TELEGRAPH-OFFICE. 56 Hanover Street. AD VER TI SEME NTS. PARKER HOUSE, School Street HARVEY D. PARKER, BOSTON", ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. ^^^ The most comfortable Dining-Rooms and Restaurant, with the best service and cooking to be found in Boston. AD VERTISEMENTS. TREMONT HOUSE, Comer of Bea«oii and Tremont StSt, BOSTON. REVERE HOUSE, Bowdoin Square, BOSTON. .^ €t\ff W-^Y The above -well-estaMislied First-Class Hotels are now in perfect appoint- ment, and offer unsurpassed accommodations to tourist and traveller. CHAPIN, GURNEY, & CO., Proprietors. AL> VERTISEMEJ^TS. AD VERTISEMENTS. ST. MICHOLAS HOTEL, Broadway, New York, Is Tineqiialled hi size and appointments, having 500 rooms and 100 suites of apartments for private families, and accommodations for 1,000 guests, each apartment containing hot and cold water, and gas. THIS HOTEL IS ADMIRABLY LOCATED FOR BUSINESS OR PLEASURE TRAVELLERS. 1^^ Passenger elevator connects with every floor. S. HAWK & CO., Proprietors. iipsiiii HOPPMAM HOUSE, HVIadisoii Scxiaai-e, > - - New Yorlc. EUROPEAN PLAM. Said by all travellers to Ice tlie best liotel in tlie Avorld. C. H. READ, Proprietor. AD VERTISEMENTS. Grand Hotel, Oor. 31st Street and Broad^way, NEW YORK. ^ f mm mm A new house. The most elegant and convenient in New York, Splen- didly famished. Most favorably located for every purpose of business or pleasure. Near all Depots, Theatres, and the most fashionable stores. CONDUCTED ON THE EUROPEAN PLAN. HENRY MILFORD SMITH, Proprietor. AD VERT18EMENTS. FIFTH AVENUE HOTEL, NEW YORK, Fronting on Madison Park, Fifth Avenue, 23d and 24th Streets. FIRST-CLASS IN EVERY RESPECT. Convenient to all the principal places of amusement, and of easy access from any portion of the city by horse-railroads and omnibus lines. Livery aU new, and the finest in the city. DARLING, GRISWOLD, & CO. *< BOOKS OF MAJRE AND DELICIOUS MITMOM,'* WARNER'S WRITINGS. MY SUMMER IN A GARDEN $1.00 The Same. Illustrated by Darlet 3.00 SAUNTERINGS. A Book of Travel Sketches in Europe 1.50 BACKLOG STUDIES. Illustrated by Hoppin . . . 2.00 BADDECK, and that Sort of Thing. Travel Sketches in British Provinces 1.00 " Those who have read one of Mr. Warner's books will not probably need any persuasion to induce them to take up another. His wit and humor are always de- lightful, often full of surprises, and the flavor lingers long after the leaf has been turned on which the author had impressed it." — The Morning Star. *** For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the JAMES E OSGOOD & CO., Boston. AB VERTISEMENTS. GRAND UNION HOTEL, SARATOGA SPRINGS, Will open June 1, at popular prices. BRESLIN, PURCELL, & CO. METROPOLITAN HOTEL, NEW YORK, Cor. Broadway and IPrince St. BOARD $4 PER DAY. BRESLIN, PURCELL, & CO. GILSEY HOUSE, NEW YORK, Cor. Broadv;ray and 29th. Street. ON THE EUROPEAN PI.AN. BRESLIN, GARDNER, & CO. WESTMINSTER HOTEL, on the european plan, Corner of Sixteenth Street and Irving Place, NEW YORK. The location of this house is one of the most central yet quiet in the city. Only one block from Union Square, and Tvithin easy walking distance of all the principal places of amusement, Tiffany's, Stewart's, Arnold and Constable's, Lord and Taylor's, and all the famous bazaars of the city. Has been enlarged and improved the past season by the addition of fifty new rooms. Passenger Elevator, etc. CHAS. B. FERRIN, Proprietor. AD VEETISEMENTS. CONTINENTAL HOTEL, 9t]i and Cliestnut Streets, PHILADELPHIA. J. E. KINGSLEY & CO., Proprietors. This hotel, centrally located, is one of the largest and finest in the country. It has 500 rooms, and accommodations for 800 guests. It has 50 parlors and chambers e.n suite, with haths, etc., attached. As a whole, it is one of the best ventilated and most complete in aU of its appointments of any hotel in the world. Terms, $4.50 per day. HOWELLS'S WRITINGS. Suburban Sketches. Illus- trated $2.00 Venetian Life .... 2.00 Their "Wedding Journey. Illustrated 2.00 Italian Journeys . . .$2.00 A Chance Acquaintance. Illustrated 2.00 The Same. 18mo . . 1.50 Poems 1.50 "Mr. Howells deserves a place in the first rank of American travellers." — Pall Mall Gazette. " The great body of the cultivated public has an instinctive deli^-ht in original genius, whether it be refined or sensational. Mr. Howells's is eminently refined. His humor is the humor of a poet." — E. P. Whipple. *** For sale by BooTcsellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, JAMES E. OSGOOB & CO., Boston. AL VER TI SEME NTS. The Grand Pacific Hotel, Opposite the Government Square and the new Federal Buildings, is without doubt the most perfect hotel structure in the world, and the largest edifice representing private enterprise in the United States. Its four fronts — on Jackson, LaSalle, Quincy,and Clark Streets — have an extent of ten hundred and twenty-two (1,022) feet. It was opened to the public on the 2d day of June, 1873, and has proved to its multitude of patrons, representing the best elements of the travelling community, the well- chosen and unsurpassed character of all its appointments and arrangements (of which special mention may be made of the Baths, Turkish, Electric, and Vapor), secured with a lavishncss of outlay, aided by experience and careful study, never before given to an enterprise of its class. The magnificence of the exterior, its great interior rotundas, superb public apartments, and unequalled suites of private rooms on its mile of corridors, the system and detail of its management, have not only won the pride and admiration of our citizens and guests, but furnish the key to the success of the Grand Pacific, which from the outset has never been equalled by any previous or contemporary enterprise. Central to all the great railway depots, the banks, wholesale stores, and places of elegant shopping, and amusements, it is at all seasons, by its lightness, spaciousness, and perfection of ventilation, the most comfortable as well as elegant home for the resident guest and tourist ever offered. And it will be maintained a.s it has begun, the most complete and perfect hotel in the world, — a claim for it sustained by the guests of the past eleven months, many of them our patrons since the opening of the former Sherman House, July 8, 1861. GEORGE W. GAGE, JOHN A. mCE, LCSSEES FOR 20 TEARS. AD VERTI SEME NTS. FORT WILLIAM HENRY HOTEL, LAKE GEORQS. This magnificent Hotel, with accommodations for 900 persons, will be opened for guests June 1, 1876. To accommodate those who wish to spend the summer at the Lake, the price will be placed at the popular rate6 of from $2^ to $3^ per day depending on location. Sail and Steam Yachts, Small Boats, Carriages of all kinds, Saddle Horses, etc., can be had by inquiring at the oflBce. The Orchestra for the summer is one of the best in the country. Until June Ist, for plan of rooms, address "The Arlington," Wash- ington, D. C. T. ROESSLE & SON, Owners and Proprietors. '* He cometh unto you with a Tale tvhich holdeth children from plaijf and old men from the Chimney -Corner." — Sir Phitjp Sidney. ALDBICH'S WRITINGS. MARJORIE DAW, and Other People. Cloth, $1.50; Paper, $1.00. " These unapproachable stories." — Boston Courier. THE STORY OP A BAD BOY. Illustrated. $1..50. " An admirable siiecimen of what a boy's story should be." — Boston Advertiser. PRUDENCE PALFREY. With Picture of "Prudence" by Miss Hallock. Cloth, $ 1..50 ; Paper, $ 1.00. " He is master of the art of arresting the attention of the reader at the beginning, and of keeping it to the end, and this is due as much to his way of narrating as to the interest of his narratives. He is undoubtedly one of the most attractive and agreeable of story-tellers, and his stories are at the same time fresh, original, and artistically planned and executed, giving full play to all his faculties, humorous or poetic." — E. P. Whipple. *** For sale by Booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price by the Publishers, JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. ADVERTISEMENTS. HOXJSEl EST^BLISHEr) 18S7. DIXON'S PATENTED AMERICAN GRAFHITK PSIVGIIkS 3 grades of leads in Office styles. 10 grades of leads in Art styles. FINE, SMOOTH, STRONG, PLEASANT. THE FOLLOWING CORRESPONDENCE SPEAKS FOR ITSELF. Mr. Knight is probably the most critical and technical expert in the use of pencils in this country, and received our samples with the natural prejudice against a new article ; tried them under protest, partaking, as we believe he did, of the wide-spread feeling that a really fine pencil has not yet been produced in the United States. But, with the true instincts of a high-toned critic, he does not hesitate to acknowl- edge merit, when fully convinced. U. S. Patent Office, Washington, D. C, March 5, 1874. I am using the best imported Siberian pencils and paying (S 18.00) eighteen dol- lars per gross for them. I have, for the production of the drawings used in my Dictionary, four draughtsmen who cannot be beaten in the United States for fine pencil-work. Your pencil V V H is quite up to the quality of the S? 18.00 imported ; it can hardly be better ; but my best draughtsman says it is perhaps a little better. We shall hereafter use none but your V V H, and I have experimented carefully. I send some of the drawings from which my cuts are made, to show you that I need the Best High-Grade Pencils at any price. The package containing H, V H, and V V II pencils came safely to hand, and some have been given to other bureaus in the Department, with everywhere a favorable verdict. I am, yours truly, EDWARD II KNIGHT, A. M., Examiner-in- charge of C^nssijicatioji and Official Pub/.icatio7is, U. S. Patent Office; Author of ^^ Knight^ s American Mechanical Dictionary.''^ Post-Office Department, (Topographical Division), Washington, D. C, March 31, 1874. Orestes Cleveland, Esij.: Sir, — Having made trial of the Dixon American Graphite Pencil in this Division of the Post-Office Department, I cheerfully add my testimony. W. L. NICHOLSON, Topographer P. O Department. The Undersigned concur in the above. C. H. POOLE, Assistant Topographer. A F. DINSMORE, Principal Draughtsman. Treasury Department, (Office op Supervising Architect), Washington, D. C, April 8, 1874. Orestes Cleveland, Esq. : Sir, — Having used Dixon's American Graphite Pencils in this Department, it affords me pleasure to add my testimony to the above. F. W. CHANDLER, Assistant Architect. THE ONI.Y PENCILS AWARDED THE GRAND MEDAL FOR PROGRESS AT VIENNA, 1S73. These fine pencils are rapidly taking the place of every other kind. For samples or information write to THE JOS. DIXON CRUCIBLE CO, Jersey CiSy, N. J. Manufacturers, for nearlv fifty years, of Dixon's Crucibles, Dixon's Stove Polish, L-umljer Pencils, and Plumbago, Black I.eacl, Graphite, for all iises. AD VERTISEMENTS. Pullman Cars and all Modem Improvements. CENTRAL VERMONT R. R. LINE IS THE Shortest, Quickest, and Best Route BETWEEN BOSTOiy AND i^ONTREAL, QUEBEC, OTTAWA, TORONTO, THE ADIRONDACKS, Tbousaud Islands, Lakes Cliamplain, George, St. Besis, Mempliremagog, Winnipiseogee, AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, Massena Springs, Alburgli, Higligate, Sheldon, St. lieon, Caledonia, and Clarendon Springs; also, the Green Mountains and WHITE MOUNTAINS. FOR Round Trip Kxcursions^ To all the above points, also including the Maritime Provinces, Coal and Iron Kegions of Pennsylvania, NIAGARA FALLS, The Great I^alces, Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul, St. liouis, and Colorado, Call or send for the "SUMMER EXCURSIONIST," •WHICH CONTAINS OVER i o o o DIFFERENT EXCURSIONS TO AI.!, THE PRINCIPAIi SUMMER RESORTS, Free on application. Tickets and full information at the principal ticket ofRces in New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and at 322 Washington Street, - - Boston Mass. T. EDWARD BOND, Ticket Agent. L. MILLIS, Gen. Sup't Traffic. S. W.^ CUMMINGS, Passenger Agent. St. Albans, Vt. AB VERTISEMENTS. THE GREAT BALTIMORE & OHIO RAILROAD, HAYING EVER IN VIEW The Comfort and Welfare of its Patrons, Has already completed, and in course of construction, at con- venient points along its line, some of tlie FINEST HOTELS AND MEAL STATIONS IN THE COUNTRY, WHERE THE HUNGRY TRAVELLER FURNISHED WITH EVERYTHING THE MARKET AFFORDS, AMPLE TIME GIVEN TO ENJOY A SUMPTUOUS REPAST. S^= Dyspepsia Shops, and the old song, "Fifteen Minutes," &e., do not exist upon this Line. AD VER TISEMENTS. WONDERFUL SUCCESS OF OR.T. FELIX GOURAUO'S "ORIENTAL CREAM, " OR ]N/[agical Beantifier. ITS FAME IS RAPIDLY SPKEADINO OVER THE COUNTRY. See the avalanche of Testimonials, selected from thousands, in its praise, A Frencli lady writes : MoNS. GouKAUD, — 'Tis but an act of justice that I should spontaneously give you my unqualified testimonial of the united efficacy, innocence, and fragrance of your preparation for purifying and cleansing the sltin. By its use every pimple and freckle have vanished from my face. You should, Mon Ami, as it is so sovereign and charm- ing a remedy for scattering all blemishes from our faces, call it le delice des dames. En an motje suis enchante de le cosm,etiqae etfe?i vous remercie de tout mon coeur. Ejiille Dksmoulins, Madison Avenue. Tlie following from the Eminent Tragedienne, Mi's. D. P. Bowers. Dr. Gouraud, — Will you send six bottles of your " Oriental Cream " to the above address, not forgetting to be reasonable in price? Yours TruJy, Mrs. D. P. Bowers, The following from Mrs. Col. Young, I^ady of Col. Young, of "Young's Kentucky Cavalry." Dr. T. Felix Gouraud. Hamilton, Onio, July 7, 1850. Dear Sir, — .Some weeks since I wrote to you, enclosing the Sunday Despatch, with a notice of your valuable cosmetic, " Oriental Cream." I fear that you did not receive my communication ; if not, I shall be much pleased to hear from you, and also gratified to receive a half-dozen of your charming preparation for the complexion. Your "Oriental Cream " should be immortalized, as I have no doubt it is already by many a fair dealer in this charming device for rendering youth immortal. The wo- men are all crazy to know m}' recipe for a brilliant complexion. I have lost half of my good looks .already for the v/ant of this indispen'^able luxury, as I am travelling for the health of my little boy. Obediently yours, F. L. Young. From the Countess de Bierski, a Licading Society Lady. Dr. Gouraud. Rochkster, February 18, 1867. Dear Sir, — Please send me two more bottles of your charming " Oriental Cream," by American Express, and oblige Yours respectfully, Countess de Bierski. From Miss Fannie Stockton, the Prima Donna of the Opera House. Buffalo, December, 18(56. Dk. T. F. Gouraud, — I do not wish to put anything else in contact with my face, so delighted am 1 with this matchless cosmetique. Please send me ten bottles. Fannie Stockton. Dr. Gouraud, — I have found your " Cream" so delicious ; it softens and makes the skin so beautiful : it does give me faith in your other preparations. Miss Anna G***, Bangor, Me. Dr. T. Felix Gouraud, — 1 he " Cream" is the nicest wash for the skin ; it is ex- cellent. Mrs. E. Curtin, St. Louis. Dr. Gouraud, — Your "Oriental Cream" is perfectly delicious ; it is so cooling and refreshing. Mrs. Eaton, Boston. From Evans, the celebrated Perfumer, of Philadelphia. PiTiLADELUHiA, April 30, 1868. Dr. Gouraud, — I think your " Cream " is unquestionably the best thing in this line, from the reason, when ;i lady once uses it she continues it in preference to anythmg else. Our customers for it are regular ones. T find it is retailed by the druggists and fancy stores at 'I'avo Dollars a bottle yet. '1 here i^ more sold here than you are aware of. A¥hat is requirod i o insure a large sale is a lilx'ial amount spent in judicious ad- vertising. Let tln' ladies know its merits, and especially the price, and if they once try it we secure a regular customer. If I was the own u-, I would sell more of it in K. T. FELIX GOURAUD, 48 Bond St., N. Y. Estabhshed 1839. To be hail of Druggists, &c. BEWARE OF countehfeits. A LIBRARY FOR ONE DOLLAR WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. LITERATURE, ART, SCIENCE, AND HISTORY. 1. Tyndall on Light. Price, 10 cents. 2. Beecher's Compulsory Education ; Phillips's Lost Arts ; Mark Twain's Sandwich Island Letters. Price, 10 cents. 3. Illustrated — Prof. Wilder's Brain and Mind ; Prof. Barker on the Spectroscope ; Prof. Young on Astronomy, etc. Price, 10 cents. 4. Weiss's Shakespearian Studies ; Parton's Pilgrim Fathers ; Bret Harte's Argonauts of '49. Price, 10 cents. 5. Illustrated— Elsberg on Sound and Speech ; Raymond on the Seven Senses ; Park Godwin on True and False Science. Price, 10 cents. G & 7, Beecher's Yale Lectures. Price, 10 cents each. 8. Illustrated — Agassiz on The Method of Creation. Price, 10 cents. 9. Illustrated — Proctor on Astronomy and Agassiz at Penikese. Price. 10 cents. ( Pamphlet Edition, 20 cents. ) 10. Illustrated — The Annual Meeting (1873) of the American Association for the Advancement of Science. Price, 10 cents. 14. Exploring Expeditions — Agassiz, Hayden, and Whitney. Price, 10 cents. 15. Brown-Sequard on the Nerves ; Proctor on Astronomy; Dis- coveries at Ancient Troy. Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet Edi- tion, 20 cents.) 16. The BrookljTi Congregational Council. Price, 10 cents. 17. Metropolitan Sermons. Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet, 20 cents.) 20. Metropolitan Sermons (No. 2.) Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet, 20 cents.) (H^^ The entire Extra Series above described sent by mail for One Dollar. 12. The Evangelical Alliance (32 pages). Price, 25 cents. ] 8. Sumner Eulogies by -Schurz, Elliott, Lamar, etc. Price, 5 cents. 10. National Academy of Science ; Brown-Sequard, Hammond, etc. Price, 10 cents. (Pamphlet, 20 cents.) J^^^ Additional Extra sheets, containing Credit Mobilier reports ind the popular novels, "May," by Mrs. Oliphant ; and "A Pair of Blue Eyes," and " Lords and Ladies," Each by mail, 10 cents. " The Wooing O't " (20 pages), 20 cents. Address rpHE TRIBUNE, _ ^-~ NEW YORK. Pennsylvania Railroad. GREAT TRUNK LINE AMD UNITED STATES MAIL ROUTE BETWEEN THE ATLANTIC SEABOARD, THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY, AND THE GREAT LAKES. THE MOST SPI.EIVDIDLY EQUIPPED AND Best Constructed Railway Lina IN THE UNITED STATES. Double Track and Stone Ballasted, laid with solid Sleepers and heavy Steel Kails between New York and Pittsburg. Bridges of Iron and Stone, and all material used in con- struction subjected to the closest inspection and highest tests. Westingliouse Air-Brake attached to all passenger trains, and A Perfect System of Safety Signals. PULLMAN DRAWING-ROOK, SLEEPING, AND PARLOR CARS RUN ON ALL EXPRESS TRAINS BETWEEN New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Baltimore, and Chicago, Cincinnati, Louisville, Indianapolis, and St. Louis, WITHOUT CHANGE. The Scenery on this Route; FOR GRANDEUR, BEAUTY, AND VARIETY, IS UNSURPASSED IN THE WORLD. TH30UGH TICKETS FOR SALE AT LOWEST RATES, At the Ticket Offices of tlie Company in the principal cities of the United States. A. J. CASSATT, General Manager. D. M. BOYD, Jr., Gen'l Pass. Agent. 1 AA/^aAaAI y^\^ ,MrM ^^A iii ftftry/^, m^Hmfyr(Xmr ^A^B :?\'8a/D r\A/-\M'(5 hAKkWm/: iSSOCQQGsdC '/-^:i^^^v^:w /^^lO./-, i LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 014 068 552 5