Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from The Library of Congress http://www.archive.org/details/lowercaliforniaiOOIowe I LOWER CALIFORNIA: 73 |te ^wgraplg a# CJaracteratits, SKETCH OF THE GRANT AND PURPOSES OWER CALIFOMIA COMPANY. 1868. \ ^ ..^iOOd-. ^^ Ntnv l0vlt: M. B. BROWN & CO., BOOK & JOB STEAM PRINTERS, 99 & 101 William Street. 1868. LIST OF OFFICERS, RICHARD SCHELL. (^tfvtxmK mA ^\xptxxvAmAtni, GEN'L JOHN A. LOGAN ^xtixmtXf WM. R. TRAVERS. §ixttUv&, C. K. Garrison, Gen. B. F. Butler, August Belmont, Wm. S. C. Fargo, Hon. John A. Griswold, Leonard W. Jerome, Wm. R. Travers, David Crawford, Hon. Robt. McLean, Francis Morris, George "Wilkes. lerks office of ihA District Court of theV.S hrthe SoTitf'^mDzstrat of JJ'es^ J \ ;jawa»a«l-l».<-^^jjj|p^;----,p^ ,H,.r~---.---- -■. --,'-■-■ .^y,,^- ~2- i-. ;,--, . /,^^.,,.,,jt^. LOWER CALIFORNIA AND THE LOWER CALIEORIIA COMPAIY, It is the object of this pamphlet to call attention to that remarkable portion of the Pacific coast which adjoins the United States upon its south-western border, and which is known to the world as the peninsula of Lower California. It is also its object to inform the public that the bulk of that peninsula, including its harbors, fisheries, and mines, has been acquired, under concession or grant from the Mexican Government, by certain American citizens, who have organized them- selves in New York, under the title of the Lower California Company. And it is finally its object, after a brief glance at the geographical position and natural capacities of the peninsula, to explain the charac- ter of that grant, and the powers and purposes of the Company. In doing this, care will be taken that no exaggerations shall be made, and that such obvious facts alone be stated, as shall be due to the case and to the standing of the Company. The geographical importance of Lower California will at once be seen by reference to the map. Springing boldly from the main land at 32 ° North latitude, it juts downward into the Pacific to the distance of six hundred miles, with an outer and inner line of lofty coast, abounding in grand harbors, and sentinelled by numerous islands. It constitutes, therefore, a natural fortress of incalculable strength, which on its outer face domineers the vast commerce of the North-west coast, while its inner shore and islands overawe the richest part of Northern Mexico. This eastern shore, moreover, presides over that famous arm of the sea known as the Gulf of California, at the head of which comes in the mouth of that great river (Colorado) whose waters, rising far north in the interior of Utah, offer hundreds of miles of steam navigation to the internal trade of the United States, with a westward outlet for it to the sea. It would, therefore, be hardly possible to compass, much less to over-estimate, the geographi- cal importance of Lower California to the western portion of the continent. In this point of view it has long been an object of great interest to those who have speculated upon the future destiny of North America ; and the source, as well, for the last twenty years, of deep regret that it was not acquired by the United States Commission- ers, at the time of the acquisition of Upper California, of which it is the natural appendage. The development of the precious metals along the whole line of the Pacific coast, the eager spring in that di- rection of "trans-continental railways to meet the coming commerce of the East, and the still more marvellous indications (through the Chinese treaty, and otherwise) that the stifled populations of the Asian empires are on the point of transferring their waste millions to the whole mineral area of the North- West Coast, brings Lower California, as a promi- nent portion of that tempting region, forward, at this time, with a new and accumulating interest. In this connection, it will be well to observe by a reference to the annexed map, that the favorite southern route for a trans-Atlantic railway, projected to terminate at Guaymas, finds a natural depression across the peninsula of Lower California, which will make it the medium of the shortest and quickest passenger route from New York to San Francisco. This map will further show the mouth of the Colorado River, aptly termed by Lieu- tenant Beale, the "Mississipi of the West," and which was so highly estimated by him, as an artery of commerce, that, at the close of his survey of it in 1863, he declared that a war with France on the part of the United States, would not be too high a price to prevent it from being seized and estranged from us in the then pending French experiment on Mexico. In his subsequent report to the Secretary of the Treasury, under date of November 5th, 1863, Lieutenant Beale says of this river : "I beg of you to remember that this river, (with its tributaries spread out like a fan), reaches for a thousand miles into the very bowels of our continent, and terminates in that long, placid sea which washes the shores of Sonora on one side, and the peninsula of Lower California on the other, for more than seven hundred and fifty miles. In fact, the Gulf of California is the mouth of the Colorado !" In view of the increased value which the future commerce of this great river is destined to give to the lands on both sides of the Gulf of California, Lieutenant Beale adds: "It is pos- sible to buy up immense grants of land in both Sonora and Lower California. These grants are what are called floating grants, and it occurred to me to buy up these grants and locate them. It is true an individual would not, in making the purchase, buy with it the sover- eignty, but the fact that the land was all owned by citizens of the United States might predispose Mexico to part with its sovereignty for a consideration of some commercial character which we could make." In connection with these observations of Lieut. Beale, it is not improper to state that the Lower California Company, in addition to its acquisitions in the peninsula, have made arrangements to acquire large interests in Sonora, in order that they may be assimilated with the general property of the Company. In speaking of Lower Cali- fornia, in a letter of earlier date (Aug. 5th, 1863), also directed to the Secretary of the Treasury, Lieutenant Beale says : " I am quite sure that I have not exaggerated the great value to our country of that long mountain ridge, which abounds in good harbors on both the Gulf coast and the Pacific, and is filled with mineral wealth of every description. I beg you will give this subject a few hours' consideration — valuable and abundantly occupied as your time is, I assure you this matter is worthy your attention. I desire 6 most particularly to call your attention to the fact that we have it in our power at this time, by purchase of Lower California and a very small portion of the opposite coast, to possess the mouth of the Colorado River, destined to be as important to us on the Pacific as the Missis- sippi to the Eastern States. * * * Lower California, as I have before written, possesses mines of incalculable extent and inestimable value, while its harbors are numerous, capacious, and secure." The Lower California grant or concession, comprehends all that portion of Lower California, which is embraced within the parallels o^ 2A^° 20' and 31" north latitude, including both coasts of the peninsula; and it comprises altogether, the vast area of 46,800 square miles. "Within this area, only scanty properties ever have been settled by the natives;* while the few and limited grants previously made within it by the Mexican Government, have been vacated for non-fulfilment, almost without exception, by a subsequent decree. This grant was originally made to certain wealthy and influential American citizens in Upper California, through Jacob P. Lease, of San Francisco ; but those parties having failed to fulfil its conditions, within the period prescribed to them, the Mexican Government, permitted the said grant to be transferred to the Lower California Company. This transfer was duly made at the Mexican Legation in "Washington, on the 4th May, 1866, and the grant was then re-validated and extended, so that its original terra should be renewed and run freshly from that date. This re-validation and extension was subsequently ratified at Mexico by President Juarez in the following 4th August, 1866. In evidence thereof, a duly authenticated copy of said grant, and memoranda of said transfer and conveyance, certified by the Mexican Minister, have been filed in the office of the Secretary of State, of the United States, in order that the American Government may have oflBcial cognizance thereof * The present population of Lower California is estimated at 14,000, nearly all -which is below the Southern line of the Company's grant. The upper boundary is likewit'e sep- erated from the Northern border of the peninsula, inasmuch as the Mexican government did not wish the grant to directly impinge upon the territory of the United States. By reference to the grant, a copy of which will be found elsewhere,* it will be seen that it confers upon the colonists of the Company quasi governmental powers, subject only to the general laws of Mexico. It likewise confers immediate citizenship upon the Company's colonists, exemption to those colonists from military services, remission of taxes upon wearing apparel, provisions, mining tools, and other of their imports — privileges which have never been exceeded for liberality, in any grant made by the Mexican government to foreign citizens. Such was the opinion of the Hon. Caleb Cushing, whom the Company legally consulted at the time of their acquisition of the grant, while the validity of the grant stands further certified to, by Hon. Robert J. "Walker, who had been previously consulted in the premises. To their authority may be added that of the distinguished lawyers who are among the original members of the Company. Upon the basis of this vast property, with its franchises and its privileges, the Company, through its Trustees, applied for and obtamed in the winter of 1866-7, a perpetual charter from the State of New York, with an unlimited capital, which vests in the Trustees of the Company the power "Of holding, leasing, and improving lands in Lower California, and of obtaining therefrom all minerals and other valuable substances, whether by working or mining, or disposing of privileges to work or mine. &c., * * * and to dispose of the proceeds of all such lands, mines, and works as it may deem proper, &c." * * * " The said Company shall also have power to establish agencies for the purpose of procuring and forwarding to Lower California, emigrants and other persons, and for owning and managing such ships and vessels as it may deem necessary for that purpose ; and to own and carry on such transportation on inland waters, as may be necessary for its purposes in Lower California ; or for the purpose of encouraging regular means of communication be tween any part of the United States and any part of Lower Califor- nia," &c., &c. * See Appendix. 8 Under this Charter the Company has fixed its capital stock at Thir- ty-five miUions of dollars, which sum is inclusive of eight millions to be issued for the purchase of the Sonora grants. Upon this basis it now stands organized as follows : President, RICHARD SCHELL. Governor and Superintendent, GENL. JOHN A. LOGAN. Treasurer, WM. R. TRAVERS. Directors, C. K. Garrison, Gen. B. F, Butler, A UGUST Belmont, Wm, S. G. Fargo, Hon. John A. Griswold, Leonard "W. JERoke, Wm. R. Travers, David Crawford, Hon. RoBT. Mc.Lane, Francis Morris, George Wilkes. Besides these eminent citizens, we find among the original and present members of the Company, the Hon. Caleb Cushing, S. L. M. Barlow, John R. Garland, Edwards S. Sanford, John Anderson, Ben. Holladay, Francis Morris, John W. Forney, H. C. Stim- soN, A. Welch, Charles Gallagher, George A. Osgood, John Mc. B. Davison, Jacob P. Leese, H. C. Gray, Levi A. Dowley, Charles D. Poston, &c., &c. It may not be out of place, in connection with these names, to notice, that in addition to the great legal and mercantile experience they represent, they likewise combine most important forms of influence in the way of ocean steamships, overland expresses, tele- graphy, financiering, general trade, and public station. Two of them. it also may be said, have been ministers of the United States to China and to Mexico. Lower California was made known to the civilized world in 1532. It was first heard of by the Spanish conquerors of Mexico, as the source of the pearls, emeralds, garnets, and rich specimens of gold and silver ores, which were among the spoils of Montezuma's capital ;* and Cortes, acting upon this belief, fitted out an expedition, consisting of two vessels, to explore it. The result of this enterprize was, that the peninsula was reported as an island, and named from the treasures of its waters, the Isla de Perlas ; while the gulf which washed its inner shore, was called the Sea of Cortes. The Peninsula subsequently received the name of California from the Jesuit Mission- aries; and the gulf, after having been named by some navigators, the Vermillion Sea, from the peculiar crimson of portions of its waters, finally settled down into its present title, of the Gulf of California. At the time of its discovery. Lower California was inhabited by a race of peaceful Indians who lived an easy life on the almost spontan- eous products of the earth. They were easily managed by the Jesuits, who, in process of time established missions all over the peninsula, and taught the inhabitants the arts of agriculture. Finding that the precious metals were among them, the thrifty fathers amassed consider- able wealth, and many an altar is to this day rich with the gold and silver of that early period. These missions were planted in almost every valley from Cape St. Lucas to the 32d parallel, and at the opening of the present century all were in a state of marked pros- perity. The principal of them was that of Loreto, which is now the territorial capital of Lower California. The next was that of Co- mondu, situated at the head waters of the great Bay of Magdalena on the Pacific coast. San Javier was also a place of considerable note, while Mulege, Santa Gertrudis, San Ignacio, San Borja, Santa Maria, Eosario and Santa Catalina, may also be mentioned among the thriving communities of the early time. These missions maintained from two * Historical Summary of Lower California, by Alexander S. Taylor. See Appendix. 10 to five thousand Indians each, who with their families were employed by 1 he Jesuits in cultivating land or herding stock. They lived in plenty. The climate enabled them to grow not only the most valuable grains, but also sugar, figs, oranges, dates, and other tropical productions ; while of cotton, they always raised sufficient to supply their wants in clothes. "We search in vain among the records of these people for accounts of those great drouths which are said to render the country incapable of culture. We find, on the contrary, that the fathers had a system of agriculture which was entirely reliable. They consulted with intelligence the characteristics of the country, and those very features which the impatient and the ignorant have reported as discouraging, were, turned to account and proven to be providential. The naissions were usually planted on the hill sides so that they overlooked the valleys, and when the rains fell, contin- gent water was secured by a system of enormous dams of stone, which were projected from hill to hill quite across the valleys, so as to back up the water in artificial streams till the next rain fell. These rude works were as creditable to the Jesuits of Lower California as were the aqueducts of Egypt and of Eome to the Pharoahs and the Caesars ; and their ruins are to this day a rebuke to the present dero- gate condition of the territory. The truth is, that Lower California, instead of being worthless or even undesirable, has simply retrogaded. Nevertheless, with all of its misfortunes, it is not to-day as desolate as the Roman Campagna, or as worthless as many of the once fertile districts of the Nile. The revolution wliich overturned the authority of Spain expelled the Jesuits from Lower California, and the relaxed condition of affairs which followed, destroyed all the discipline of native labor. The Franciscan Friars came in after the retirement of the Jesuits, but they had not the governing faculty of the Order of Jesus, and the most thriving missions, consequently, soon lost their importance, and dwindled into insignificance. The political vicissitudes which followed account for the supervening desolation. 11 The climate of the peninsula of Lower California, is described by all travelers as being unsurpassed for its delicious softness, without being subject to any extremities of temperature. By the Hon. J. Ross Browne, it has been proclaimed to be, indisputably, the finest climate in the world. The present products of the territory, according to the oflScial export list of 1857, are wine, hides, salt, cheese, sugar, dried meats, figs, raisins, dates, oranges, salted fish, Brazil wood, gold, silver and copper ores, gold and silver in marks and ounces, pearls and mother of pearl, &c. Portions of its la.nds have recently been found pe- culiarly adapted to the cultivation of tobacco, opium, silk and cotton. The above official export list will of itself refute the alleged sterility of the country. It will be borne in mind, also, that this alledged barrenness is precisely the description we once had of the fertile centre of this continent under the name of the Great American Desert. The like was said of Upper California by the earlier pioneers ; and the same of Chili and Peru, in which latter regions we were told discouragingly, it never rained. All of these countries, however, are now well filled with agricultural populations, and under the patient and encouraging hand of man, they blossom like the rose. Lower California will un- questionably range itself under the affirmative of the same problem ; and there can be no doubt, that ample supplies of water can be had anywhere within it, at three or four feet below the surface. The letter of the Hon. Chas. D. Poston, U. S. Commissioner to China, may be usefully consulted on this subject.* It is believed, that upon proper development, the mines of Lower California will not be found inferior to those of any other portions of the continent, while its copper and salt deposits are known to be among the richest in the world. Upon some of its islands the new and valua- ble kind of iron which is found in grains, and which is known to com merce as the titanic iron ore, has been discovered in abundance. The principal of the present settlements are the Mission Commondu and Mulege. The first of these is situated at the head waters of the * See Letter of Mr. Poston to General Logan in the Appendix, and also of the Kev. Dr- Martin. 12 northwestern arm of the Bay of Magdalena, at the foot of a rocky canon opening to the west, almost forty miles from the mouth of the harbor. Here there has for a long time been quite a settlement of American and English sailoi's, who chiefly occupy themselves in capturing whales, which resort there from the North Pacific at certain seasons, for the purpose of delivering their young. This trade has been pursued for about thirty years, and the proceeds of each year have been estimated at 200,000 gallons of oil. The general fisheries of the peninsula are among its most valueable features. This article of its commerce ranges, as we have seen, from whales and seals to the pearl oyster ; and in relation to the latter, the eastern or gulf coast of the peninsula has always been the great pearl fishery of past and present history. The prospects of a new mode of conducting this fishery by submarine steam vessels, instead of by native divers as heretofore, is likely to give it very great importance, and to prove highly remune- rative in the article of mother of pearl alone, which has of late years become one of the most highly-prized elements of elegant ornament and furniture. Projects are already formed to utilize this and the other fisheries of the peninsula ; and with the salt in such profusion as it is found in several of the islands, there is but little doubt the general fish- eries of Lower California will compete favorably with any other known fisheries in the world. The great advantage of most of those productions and opportunities is, that they lie directly in the new high road of commerce ; while the peninsula itself, affords the short cut by which the Southern inter-oceanic railway can reach the Pacific coast, and take up the China and the San Francisco trade. For the China trade especially, the peninsula is much more favorably situated than Upper California, as trade winds prevail which enable ordinary ships to bear across from Shanghae to Magdalena Bay with hardly a change of sails. For the purpose of a Chinese immigration this ad- vantage would prove itself invaluable. The geographical importance and characteristics of Lower California^ being thus briefly exhibited, and the title and powers of the Company succinctly shown, it becomes of interest to know in what way the Direc- tors propose to turn this empire to account. They have, of course, many plans for the development and utilization of a territory of such various resources, but as all of its interests are to be subserved by colonization, the Company have first devoted themselves to the development of that important problem. The preliminary step toward this was taken by the Company, in the performance of a scientific reconnoissance or survey of the mainland and coast of the Peninsula im 1867. For the bulk of these duties, the Company, in the Fall of 1866, employed the Hon. J. Eoss Browne, then United States Commissioner of Mines and Mining for the Far Western States, but since then appointed Minister Plenipotentiary of the United States to China. This gentleman, along with a party of experts, all under orders to make reports only to the Company, entered upon their duties in the latter part of 1866, at the southern boundary of the grant, and terminated them in March of the following year, by passing out over its northern boundary to San Diego, in Upper California. In connection with this territorial reconnoissance, Mr. Browne and two other agents of the Company, served upon the local Governor of Lower California a notice from the Supreme Government of Mexico, of the transfer to the Company of the grant, and also another paper, executed by the Government, called a notice or "order of possession." This order or notice, accompanied by a full copy of the grant, was at the same time published, for the more complete information of the Governor of Lower California, in the " Periodico Official," or official bulletin of the Mexican Government, under date of July 27th, 1866. In further connection with these movements, Mr. Browne, passing out from the main land at Magdalena Bay, embarked upon the U. S. Steamer Suwanee, Captain C. M. Scam- mon, of the coast survey, and secured, through the voluntary exer- tions of that officer, a reliable survey of the western coast of the Peninsula. This survey developed the remarkable fact, that the 14 longitude of the ocean coast of the peninsula had always been thrown a full degree too far to the west (while the eastern longitude remained unchanged), and. as this mistake showed, a large reduction of the territorial surface of the grant ; the Company have appealed to the equity of the Mexican Government to make them due com- pensation elsewhere. The next step toward colonizing the territories of the Company was the appointment by the Directors, of General John A. Logan, as Governor of colonization and General Superintendent of the affairs of the Company within the boundaries of the Peninsula. This appointment was made with the view of affording protection to the colonists from any roving bands, insubordinate to the Mexican Government ; and likewise as an assurance to settlers from the United States, that their interests would always be under the immediate pa- tronage of an experienced and vigilant authority. The wisdom of these preliminary steps, but chiefly the timely pro- curation of the grant, have been singularly justified by subsequent events. It would almost seem as if the grant and charter of the Com- pany had been specially devised to meet the new impulse which had just developed itself among the eastern nations, and which, under the fostering patronage of the Burlingame embassy, promises to transfer the waste millions of the Indian seas from one coast of the Pacific to the other, in the interest of the United States. In fact, the grant and charter of the Lower California Company appear to fit into the policy of the Chinese missioi>, and to provide most opportunely for this new movement of the human race. The liberal policy of the Compan}"-, in guaranteeing equal political, legal, social, and religious rights, to all settlers, of whatever race, squares exactly with the wants of China, and not only affords her a field where she may exhibit the intelligence and capacity of her people in fair competition with the European races, but furnishes her with a means, through those superior opportunities and privileges, of putting an end to the execrable Coolie trade. Her people who have indulged in emigration, even at the risk of being made .j5 « ■■;^ slaves, as in Cuba and other parts of the "West Indies ; or of being denied even the poor privilege of an oath in court, as in Upper Cali- ornia, will henceforth prefer a land where labor is free and honorable, and where equal rights make every settler's life and property secure. The problem of state legislation, in regard to the social status of the Chinese within certain States of the United States, may thus also be equitably solved by the noblest process known to human reason, to wit : by the process of example, backed by the arguments of business com- petition. In addition to the operation of these moral considerations upon the mind of the Chinese government, the foreshadowed emigration has material prospects of not inferior importance. The descent of the Chinese upon the shores of Lower California will have the effect of translating millions of her poor subjects, who now earn but a few cents a day and pay no taxes, into prosperous colonists who will earn seve- ral dollars a day and buy largely of home products. China will thus, by one bound as it were, avail herself of the traditional policy of Eng- land, by creating outside colonies or dependencies upon her trade, and will thus avail herself of the benefits of a system, which required hundreds of years of European civilization to develope. The opportunity afforded to China by the Company to do these things, presented, in itself, sufficient inducement to warrant her in pushing her- self out among the family of nations ; and this opportunity, if improved to the extent it may be, will crown the mission of Mr. Burlingame with a large measure of success, even should his embassy meet Avith no recog- nition from the European powers. In this point of view, the European success of Mr. Burlingame's mission is not a matter of the first impor- tance, either to China or the United States. The body of the problem which he guides, lies between the opposing shores of the Pacific Ocean, and it must be obvious to any shrewd observer, that the princi- pal claims of his mission have already been accomplished in the treaty recently negotiated with the United States. That treaty comprehends and provides for social changes, which may result in a greater commer- cial revolution than the world has ever seen ; and it must, therefore, 16 be also obvious, that that very treaty, which thus far has elicited only the scorn of the English press, will become, under the contingency of any improper interference, an alliance, between China and the United States, for the freedom of trade in the Pacific, and on the Chinese coast. That the Company thoroughly comprehend the whole philosophy of this situation, and are preparing themselves to act in true accord with it, would seem apparent from by the following correspondence, had with Mr. Browne, United States Minister to China, with Mr. Romero, Minister of Mexico to the United States, and Mr. Burlingame, Minister of China to the world. This correspondence will of itself preclude the necessity of any special detail of the purposes of the Company in regard to colonization. In that point of view it should be read with care. MR. WILKES TO MR. BROWNE. Office of the Lower California Co., No. 19 William Street, New York, June 8th, 1868. His Excellency J. Ross Browne, Minister of the United States to China: Sir, — The Lower California Company, holding, as you are aware, a grant from ' the Mexican Government, which entitles them to take up and to colonize the lands of Lower California, and operating under a Charter from the State of New York for the establishment of steamer lines, &c., have recently made arrange- ments for carrying out the purposes of said grant, by colonizing Chinese upon the coast and in the interior of Lower California; and also upon tracts of land in Sonora, the title to which has also been acquired by the Company. The grant or concession held by the Company is, as you will perceive by the I copy herewith enclosed, of a most liberal character. It covers 46,800 square miles, which is nearly the whole bulk of the Peninsula. It confers quasi governmental powers, similar to those enjoyed by the Hudson's Bay and East India Companies ; and it guarantees to all the Company's colonists, ivithout regard to race or color, all the political and religious rights which enure to Mexican citizens, as soon as such colonists shall establish themselves upon Mexican soil, under the authority of the Co^npany. By the 9th section of the grant, you will perceive that the liberty of religious worship is especially guaranteed to the colonists. By the 10th section, they are empowered to establish Municipalities, elect their own authorities, levy local taxes, and -perform all other acts pertaining to political organizations, upon simply giving information of their intentions to the Political Chief of the Ter-« ritory. By the 12 th section, all wearing apparel, iron tools, provisions, and things necessary to preserve life, are exempted from duty for ten years. By 17 the 13th section, the colonists are in like manner exempted from " all classes of imports and taxes," except the "municipal contributions," which they may themselves establish. And by tlie 14th section, tliey are exempted from service in the national army for five years. Tliese franchises were all that were desired by the Company to enable them to establish such colonies as would develop the fishing, agricultural and mining resources of Lower California to their utmost extent. Thus authorized, the Company have, on their part, empowered, by letters patent, bearing the seal of the Company, the Hon. Charles D. Poston, Com- missioner of Agriculture from the United States to China, to contract, in the name of the Company, with any persons or public officers in China, and if need be with the Government of China, for ten thousand or more of Chinese colonists^ to be landed upon the coast of Lower California. And he is further authorized to convey to said colonists, such lands as they may require, in alternate plots or sections, anywhere within the boundaries of said grant they may select, or upon any of the Company's lands in Sonora ; all of said lands to be conferred upon said colonists at the same rate (with but a fraction added to cover expenses of location) as paid by the Company for the same, to Mexico. The Company further guarantees, in addition to this virtual gift of the land on their part, all the agricultural, mining and fishing privileges (including the privilege of the jsearl fisheries), and all the political and religious rights which enure under their grant and charter, to the most favored of their colonists. The Honorable Commissioner of Agriculture, aforesaid, will soon sail for China, and the Compaay having thus empowered him, feel it to be due to your Excellency's higli position to lay their purposes before you in advance, in order that yon may be fully apprised of their good faith, in case the transactions of the Company in China shall be brought to your personal or official observation. In this connection, the undersigned begs leave to add, that he has laid the grant and charter of tlie Company, and likewise the purposes of the Company in regard to Chinese colonization, before the Hon. Anson Burlingame, the Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary of tlie Emperor of China to the World, and has the gratification to state, that Mr. Burlingame, recognizing the plan of the Company to be broad and liberal, and as one that will not only destroy the infamous coolie system, but give to the Chinese people an opportunity to compete, upon equal terms with the European races, in the problem of self-government, has expressed for the objects set forth by the Company, his cordial approbation. Hoping that you, also, may see in the proposed colonization upon the Pacific coast of industrious and intelligent Asiatics, an equal advantage to the United States, through the creation of new and contiguous markets for American products. I have the honor to remain, very respectfully, your Excellency's most obedient servant, | GEORGE WILKES, I Director, &c.. Lower California Company. EEPLY OF MR. BROWNE. New York, June 8, 1868. G-EORGE "Wilkes, Esq., Director Lower California Co., &c. : Dear Sir, — In reply to your communication of yesterday, on the subject of colonizing Chinese emigrants upon the property of your Company, I have great pleasure in stating— 18 That, although the property you have obtained by grant from the Mexican Government is not attractive to American or European emigrants, on account of its inferiority, as an agricultural country, to Upper California and the adjacent territories, as well as because there is a great amount of unoccupied land open to settlementin our Western and Southern country, — it is, in my opinion, admirably adapted to the colonization of Asiatics, both from the convenience of its locality, which gives the best facility for landing emigrants from China, and for the readi- ness withwhicli they can become self-sustaining by the product of the fisheries; and for the mining and shipment of copper and other ores, which will find a ready market in San Francisco. The safe anchorage at Magdalena Bay, and the practicability of obtaining fresh water by digging wells in the surrounding lands and adjacent islands, would indicate that, as the proper place for commencing a settlement. The climate is so mild that not the least apprehension may be had about the health of newly-arrived emigrants. In the vicinity are small portions of land which may, by irrigation from wells, be made to produce vegetables, grain, fruits, grapes, sugar-cane, cotton, and almost any other production of the temperate zone. The fisheries around the bays, harbors, lagoons, and coasts of this Pen- insula will afford an e.xhaustless source of suljsistence to the patient and skillful Chinese. Whales seek these mild waters for calving, and the pearl oysters abound near the shores. The Chinese will make industrious, frugal and thrifty colonists, and being accustomed to a scale of wages at home not exceeding ten cents per day, will eagerly seek a country which offers a better reward for their labor. In China, hundreds of thousands never set foot on land, and own none to cultivate. It may, therefore, be reasonably considered that the opportunity of acquiring lands, mines, and fisheries, so liberally offered by your Company, will speedily induce as large an influx of colonists as it would be prudent to encourage. The right of citizenship, freedom from taxes and duties, exemption from military service, and opportunity to transplant an ancient civihzation to the only unoccupied part of the Pacific coast, are advantages which will not be overlooked by these intelligent and sagacious people. With an earnest desire to aid, in any proper manner, your laudable design to colonize this otherwise valueless territory, I am, very respectfully. Your obedient servant, J. ROSS BROWNE. MR. WILKES TO MR. ROMERO. Washington, 18th June, 1868. Hon, M. Romero, Minister, &c., cfcc, &c.: Sir, — I am requested by the Board of Directors of the Lower California Company to lay before Your Excellency, for the information of your Govern- ment, the enclosed correspondence with His Excellency J. Ross Browne, Minister from the United States to China, in relation to the manner in which the Company propose to colonize the peninsula of Lower California and to develop the natural resources of the same, as is required by the Mexican govern- ment under its grant or contract with Jacob P. Leese, bearing date March 30th, 1864. Your Excellency will perceive by this correspondence, that it is the intention of the Company to inaugurate their system of implanting colonists upon the uninhabited lands of Lower California with an importation of Chinese laborers 19 and will also perceive that it is their further intention to loyally observe, in all their contracts and dealings with said colonists, the liberal and beneficent spirit of the Mexican constitution, as reflected through the 9th, 10th, 12th, 13th, and 14th sections of said grant, in said correspondence referred to. These generous provisions, so different from the hard terms upon which Spain receives this same class of colonists in Cuba, cannot but present to the world a noble contrast in favor of the enlightened policy of Mexico. Hoping that this proposed influx upon the idle lands of Lower California of intelligent, frugal, industrious, and law-abiding people under such regulations as the Company have prescribed, and in faithful subordination to the laws of Mexico, may meet with the approbation of Your Excellency and Your Excellency's Government, I have the honor to be, Very respectfully, your ob't serv't, GEO. WILKES, Director, &c. The above letter was sent to Mr. Eomero, at Washington, at a time when he was absent from his Legation, and it did not consequently receive an immediate reply. Upon being subsequently spoken to upon the subject matter, by the writer of it, Mr. Romero expressed his cor- dial approbation of the colonizing programme of the Company, and stated his readiness to give an approval of the same in writing. It so happened, however, that the great amount of business which pressed upon Mr. Eomero during his brief stay in the United States, in June, and July last, diverted his attention from this promise until the very morning of his departure from New York (July 18th), for Vera Cruz. It was at a late hour on that morning, and just as Mr. Romero was about leaving his hotel for the steamer, that he hastily made the fol- lowing answer. It is inserted here merely to show that the proposed Asiatic emigration will undoubtedly be favored and promoted by the Mexican Governments as well as by the United States and Chmese Governments. REPLY OF MR. ROMERO. New York, July 16th, 1868; Geokge Wilkes, Esq., New York City : My Dbae Sir: — As you have expressed a desire that I will give you my views on the Chinese Colonization in Mexico, and more particularly in Lower California, I have no hesitancy in saying that I think favorably of it, since Mex- ico needs colonization as much as anything else, and I believe it difficult to have emigrants from a homogeneous race. I am, sir, in great haste, very truly and respectfully. Tour obedient servant, M. ROMERO. 20 MR. CALEB GUSHING TO MR. BURLINGAME. Washington, July 20, 1868. Sir: — 1 address you, at the request, and in behalf, of the Lower California Company. Oral information has already, communicated to you, touching the rights, been the purposes, and the plans of this Company; and the object of the present communication is to submit the same formally and in writing for your appro- bation. The Company hold a colonization concession from the Mexican Government of a large part of the Mexican territory of Lower California. They conceive tliat their concession affords a most auspicious opportunity for free emigration and settlement on the part of the Chinese, in a country of healthful climate and of great mineral and other resources, where they may form themselves into self-governing municipal corporations, acquire land, and engage in productive industrial enterprises, under the safeguard and protection of the laws of the Mexican Republic. The Company are assured that this plan will have the approval of the Mexican G-overnment, in proof of which the accompanying correspondence is laid before you. In the expectation that the plan will prove acceptable also to the Chinese Government, measures have been taken by the Company to promote and facilitate the transit of settlers from China to Lower California. Tour Excellency's approval of the plan is now solicited, in the confidence that it is in perfect consonance with other objects of your high and important mission, and that it offers signal advantages to all persons in China, who may desire to emigrate to America. I have the honor to be, very respectfully, C. CUSHING. His Excellency Anson Burlingame. MR. BURLINGAME TO MR. CUSHING. Boston, August 25th, 1868. Sir: — I have received your letter of the 20th ult., addressed in behalf of the Lower California Company. You perceive that the treaty, recently concluded between the Chinese Govern- ment and that of the United States, while recognizing the voluntary emigration of Chinese to other countries, contemplates their personal security in the United States, in return for the security of Americans in China. I cannot allow myself to doubt that the principles of reciprocal confidence and respect, and of interna- tional justice and faith, which the provisions of the treaty consecrate as between China and the United States, will be accepted by other Powers, in my negotia- tions with them, and thus become the public law of Europe and America. And the letter of the distinguished Mexican Minister, Mr. Romero, shows that the same principles are spontaneo'isly admitted as the basis of the foreign policy of the liberal and enlightened President of the Mexican Republic. I hesitate not, therefore, to express my personal approbation of the plan of the Lower California Company for promoting and facilitating the settlement of Chinese emigrants in Lower California ; and I venture to assume, in view of 21 the peculiar advantages af municipal self-government and unchallenged equality of right which such emigrants will enjoy there, thar the plan will prove agree- able to the Imperial Government. ANSON BURLINGAME. The Hon. Caleb Gushing. The foregoing correspondence, indicates that the destiny of the Lower California portion of that coast is clearly and forcibly foreseen. A glance at the map will show that the whole penin- sula of Lower California is being rapidly surrounded, on every side, by the symptoms of a mighty progress, and that its mere geogra- phical position alone will not long exempt it from performing a distin- guished part in the westward future of this continent. This being the case, and without considering the questions of its agricultural capacity, its wondrous climate, its facilities for Asiatic settlement, or for the culti- vation of opium, silk, and other Oriental products, it is only necessary, at present, for all reasonably practical purposes, to inquire whether the interests of the peninsula are entrusted to hands in the Lower California Company, which can utilize every feature of its value, and whether the title and the programme of that Company are sufficiently liberal and comprehensive to warrant public confi- dence. It is but necessary, in reply to this, to refer again to the Mexican grant and American charter, and likewise to the endorse- ment which the programme of the Company has met with from the highest diplomatic functionaries of Mexico, China, and the United States. This endorsement has been given on the part of Mexico, by the Hon. M. Romero, formerly Minister to the United States, but now Mexican Secretary of the Treasury ; on the part of the United States, by Hon. J. Ross Browne, Minister of the United States to China ; and on the part of China by Hon. Anson Burlingame, Minister Pleni- potentiary and Extraordinary from the Celestial Empire to the world. When, to this endorsement, it is added that the Company comprises in, its list of members and directors some of the most distinguished lawyers and publicists of America, it may be said the last evidence has been given, not only of the title of the Company, but of the substantial 22 prospects of their prioject. "With the good will, therefore, not to say the active co-operation of the diplomatic functionaries above named, in promoting the population of and the development of new markets upon the Western coast of the Pacific, and with the direct aid of the United States Commissioner of Agriculture to China, as the Company's Asiatic Agent of Colonization, no preliminary effort or guarantee seems to have been overlooked to insure the Company's success. APPEI^DIX. CHINESE SETTLEMENT IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. BY REV. DR. MARTIN. The Rev. Dr. Wm. M. Martin — well known as a missionary in China, and as a popular lecturer in California and the Atlantic States upon the subject of the immediate future of the American and Asiatic coasts of the Pacific — a man of profound thought and great experi- ence—writes as follows : November 20, 1868. Secretary Lower California Co., Dear Sir, — Tour favor is at hand, requesting me "to peruse the enclosed pam- phlet on Lower California, and to communicate to you my opinion on the resources of that territory, and the plans of the Lower California Company of colonizing with Asiatics. Also, especially to give my views upon the best steps for the Company to take in Christianising such colonists ; the building at once of churches, Sabbath-schools, and the editing of a local religious and literary journal." Save for grape culture, which in the Foot Hills where it is most successful, and requires no water, the agricultural resources of the Peninsula depend evidently upon irrigation. Even the alkali soils of Nevada, covered only with sage brush, will yield under irrigation one hundred bushels of barley to the acre. This is a tested fact. With artesian wells, and such use as can be made of mountain streams, under the influence of growth in the atmosphere of that coast, no doubt a cultivation like that which the Mormons have secured, in somewhat similar circumstances in Utah, could be attained. The resources of Lower California, however, are to be found chiefly in its mountains and waters. The compensation of the Pacific is, that, where there are not rich alluvions, there are rich deposits of mineral wealth. The Rocky Mountain system, from Cape Horn to the Arctic, is true to this law of compensation. "Where there are no rivers, and where the basins of large streams like the LTpper Columbia and Upper Colorado and Missouri have never been hemmed in long enough by mountain barriers to secure deep alluvial deposits, there uniformally are unbounded mineral resources. The very up- heaval of these high basins and mountain elevations, necessary to the metamor- phism of the rocks in their mineral formations, necessarily involves destitution of alluvious; whilst, with irrigation, undoubted agricultural products would result ; a large and well-managed capital, employed in developing the mineral 24 resources of the peninsula, with sufficient irrigation for agricultural and horti- cultural suppUes, would be the most fertile of results. Mining on the Pacific has been suffering from adventitious causes — costly labor, costly transportation, small and I badly-managed capital and stock-jobbing. Legitimate mining, such as is done in Europe, hardly exists on the Pacific. And yet the Rocky Mountaia system — comprising the Andes, Cordilleras, Rocky proper. Sierra Nevada, and Coast ranges — are the embowelment of the richest treasures of the globe. That Lower California would pay well-directed capital at one-quarter the present cost of labor, at which Asiatics could be employed is not even problematical. The Chinaman is the ox of the Pacific — patient, enduring, tractable, and reliable as no other laborer — quick to discern, never failing to obey the directions given or the manner of performance. These people can all read, are accessible to Christian effort, and, like all the races of the Pacific, most ready to embrace the Christian religion. The idol temples in China are now closed, and, by an edict of the Emperor, forever. Four thousand regenerated souls are the results of a few short years of Christian effort. The results of Christian civilization and Yankee progress are now attracting the Asiatics generally, and Chinese in partic- ular, througli their representative thousands in our country, as the Irish and other peoples of Europe are attracted by their representatives in this country. Millions of Chinese laborers are now upon our soil, and the mission work of American Churches will soon, by necessity, be transferred to our own soil. No doubt the Company can offer inducements to Evangelical bodies to under- take the Christianizing of their colonists. Well directed appliances have already by actual experiment been tested in China and California. My judgment is that, either or all the denominations which have prepared for this work among that people would, with such encouragement as the interests of the Company would warrant, be willing to enter upon all the labor of evangelization. Yours, very truly, WM. M. MARTIN. HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF LOWER CALIFORNIA. By ALBXAJSTDER S, TAYLOR, Author of the " Bibliografla Californica entre 1554-1867," " The Indianolo^y of California," etc. ; Hon. Mem. of the California Academy of Sciences, and of the Mercantile Library of San Francisco. There is no such thing in existence as a present and past history of the Cali- fornia Peninsula, which may be said to have been the mother of the State of California. The missionary histories prior to 1700 are well as far as they go, but are full of omissions, mistakes, grave errors of fact, and innumerable errors of type, all of which have been copied in every publication issued down to the present day, and making " confusion worse confounded." This little work is not designed as a serious history, the printed materials for which would take years to digest and arrange, and the consulting of immense numbers of manuscripts in California, Mexico, and Spain, kept secret, from government motives, which alone would oc- cupy a lifetime. The sketch is intended as an historical iirecis, or procession of events, from the past to the present times, which has never been made before — a skeleton guide collated, compared, and deraigued from the most authentic and reliable sources, acd the chapters and materials are compiled and arranged in a manner, we hope, convenient and simple, the plan of which has never been at-' tempted before in any work relating to the Pacific Coast. It will thus, we flatter ourseives, be found useful to the immigrant, the merchant, the seaman, and nav- igator, the naturahst, the journalist, the traveler, the statesman, the historian, 25 the miner, the manufacturer, and the speculator, and, we may add, it is made from the study of long years of California life. Having been pressed, as it were, into a remote corner of the world for over three centuries, the progress of events induced by the discovery of gold in 1848 has brought thousands of ships and millions of men m sight of the peninsular shores for the last twenty years ; yet that immense country is still empty — a mere frame without a picture. But the rapid completion of railroad communica- tions across the continent, with hourly telegrams, the steamer lines now securely connecting between Cape Horn and the Oregon, the opening in 1867 of the steamer routes to Australia and China, and the institution of legalized railroad corporations to connect the Gulf of California with the Bay of San Francisco and the Gulf of Mexico, will very soon draw, voluntary or not, the California pe- ninsula within the periphery of events, big with the fate of the future States, commonwealths, nations, and empires of the great ocean which the Divine Father of All seems ordaining for the immediate future. FIRST MENTION AND NAME OF CALIFORNIA. After the subjugation of the empire at Montezuma by Ferdinand Cortez, in 1522, pearls, emeralds, turquoises, garnets, and particular specimens of gold, silver, and copper, fell to the lot of the conquerors, among much other spoils of trea- ■ sure. The courtiers of the Aztec emperor informed the Spaniards that these trea- sures came from the countries and coasts of the ocean, a great way to the west and northwest of the capital. The King of Michoacan and the caciques of his prov- ince of Colinia called this country of treasures Ciguatan, a nnme adopted by the conquerors until they first discovered the shores of the gulf below 27", when it often went by the name of Santiago, from a place on the coast of Tehuantepec, where Cortez dispatched his first expedition of 1532. It was, after 1532, called Santa Cruz, from the bay wliere anchored Ximenez, the first European who was certainly knoiun to have landed on the peuin.gula. At this time it also obtained the name of Islas de Perlas, from the accounts and specimens brought to Cortez by the companions of Ximenez. It was then often called the Islas Amazons, from a fable current in Mexico of a nation of female warriors in these parts, and also bay, or gulf, or country " de Bellenas," or whales. A.fterthe visit of Cortez in 1535, it first acquired the name of California, or the Islas de California. After the death of Cortez it often went by the name oi. Islas Carolinas, from the Emperor Charles Y., or from Charles the Second of Spain, under which term it is set down in many old maps and charts, and as late as that of Anson in 1740. After the Jesuit settlement of 1690, the name of California became more and more confirmed, until, on the publication of the Jesuit Histories after 1750, it became permanently recognized in history, navigation, and geography under that title. After the settlements of San Diego and Monterey of 1770, the lower portions began to be styled California Peninsular, California Antigua, or Vieja, and Baja California, and the country beyond the Gila junction of the Colorado and its parallel to the ocean, as Nueva California,, California Norte, and the Alta California. It was not till the American conquest of 1846 that the name of the peninsula was confirmed in commerce as Lower California, and the northern countries as Upper California, by which terms they are now more fully known in politics and letters than the Spanish titles, leaving out the political divisions of this last, forming subsequent to 1846 what is now known as the Pacific domain of the United States of America. THE GULF OP CALIFORNIA — ITS TITLES. This great arm of the Pacific, which penetrates the American continent deeper than any other in the New World, runs from near 23° to that of 31° 30', or a length of say 600 geographical miles, to where it receives the waters of the Co- orado of the West. It acquired its name of the Gidfo de Cortez, or Mar de Cortez, 26 from the great captain, who visited it in 1531. Its other names of Mar Vermig- lion, Mar Rojo, and Mar Vermijo, seem to have been first applied in 1537-1540, after the explorations ofUlloa and Alarcon, from the reddish color of its waters, and the accounts given of its shores by Nuno de Guzman and his officers, the first conquerors of Sinaloa. * * * The Gulf of California bathes the entire lengths of the eastern shores of Lower California and of the western boundaries of the States of Sinaloa and Sonora, until these lines are absorbed by the waters of the Colorado ; that is, its shore line is 1,200 miles in length. In its northern parts it is full of sand-bars, shoals, hidden rocks, shallow soundings, and danger- ous currents, while its southern portions contain the finest harbors, bays, and anchorages, with the safest navigation for the major portion of the year. Its breadth ranges all the way from twenty miles at its head to 250 miles at its en- trance been Cape San Lucas and the port of Mazatlan. ITS OCEAN LINES, COASTS, AND NORTHERN LIMITS. From Cape San Lucas, in a little below 23°. the ocean coast carries a general northwest direction for the distance of, say, TOO geographical miles to a parallel line one marine league from the southernmost point of the Bay of San Diego, near a place called Tia Juana, according to the Mexican treaty of 1848. To identify this line beyond dispute, a marble monument was erected by the bound- ary commissioners of the United States and Mexico in 1850, opposite the Co- ronada Islets, and which monument is situated in a fraction over 32° 31' of lat- itude, and 117° 06' longitude of Greenwich. The ocean shores run at least 100 miles farther north than those of the extreme head of the gulf This section of the peninsula, for 50 nautical leagues on the sea-coast below the boimdary, is one of the finest districts for health, climate, and fertility, the climate partic- ularly being one of the most uniform and delightful m the world. THE ISLANDS OP THE OCEAN AND GULP COASTS. The first island on the Pacific, after passing Cape San Lucas, is that of Santa Margarita, which is 22 miles in length and 5 to 10 miles in breadth, according to De Fleury'smap of 1864. According to Payot's map, 1863, there are several unnamed islands in the bay of Magdalena, of which Margarita forms its southern defence, not at all inserted in De Fleury's map of 1864, nor is there any des- cription of these either in Belcher or Findley. In fact, this part of the coast has never been accurately located — a crying evil, as one steamer and several vessels have been lost or greatly damaged in these parts since 1850. The small island of Cresciente is within sight of Margarita to the northeast, and only two or three miles from the mainland. About 280 miles above Margarita is the island of Natividad, some four miles long and two broad. This, with the island of Cedros, form the southwest defences of the bay of Sebastian Viscaino, so called from that navigator's an- chorage here in 1602. Cedros is some 25 miles long by five in breadth ; to the west of it are the small islets of San Benito. Going up the coast, no other important islands are met with till that of San Geronimo is reached, 140 miles from Cedros, and situated opposite the Mission of La Eosario, and which is only four or five miles in length. The lest island met with after Geronimo is Cenisas, near the bay of San Quentin, which is only two or three miles in length. The island of Guadelupe, nearly due west from Cedros, and 120 miles from the coast in lat. 28° 45', is also included in the territory of Lower California. The position of this island was definitely fixed by Admiral Du Petit Thenars in November, 1837, though it was approximately located on several old Spanish and other charts even prior to 1820 ; it is only a mass of rocks some twenty miles in circumference, and has often been visited since 1850 by California otter- hunters and whalers. 27 Going from Cape San Lucas up the Gulf, about 100 miles north, the first is- land of the gulf is that of Geralbo (or White Hills), some 12 miles in length, and stated to contain copper mines of great value. The second is Espiritu Santo, about six miles long, containing also very rich copper-mines. This last island blocks the mouth of the bay of La Paz, which runs southeast for some 20 miles, in the western corners of which is the minor bay called Pichilingue, containing the small island of San Juan Nepoceno. The third island is the small one of San Francisco, in sight of wliich is the fourth, known as San Jose, and some twelve miles lone The fifth island is called Santa Catalina, and within five or six miles of it is the sixth, called Montserrat : these two are about ten miles in circumference each. The seventh island is the celebrated one of Carmen, which contains beyond all dispute the richest, most pecuhar, and most accessible salt- mine in the whole world, and entirely inexhaustible. The Jesuits, about 1730, asked from the viceroy a grant of th's mine in perpetuity, from which they would maintain their California establishments free of cost to the king's treas- ury. Carmen Island is about 25 miles long by six broad, and is within a few hours' sail of the old town of LoretLo. Five or six miles beyond it is the eighth island, called Coronados, of a few miles' extent. Farther up from Carmen some 30 miles is the ninth island, San Ildefonso, and within two or three hours' sail, that of Santa Isabel, the tenth, at the mouth of Moleje Bay : both of these, with three or four others in the bay aforesaid, are only a few miles in extent. The three islands called Galapagos, 30 miles above Moleje, are the eleventh, and are also only of a few miles' extent ; the Gallapagos are some 25 miles in front and to the west of Tortugas island, which is in midchannel and within sight of the port of Guaymas on the Sonora coast : this island may be set down for the Sonora coast, and, it is said, has an extinct volcano on it. The thirteenth island is Trinidad, and the fourteenth San Bernabe, both some twenty miles in circum- ference and about forty miles above the Gallapagos. The fifteenth are the Sal Si Puedes, three small islands, within sight of two others, known as Las Ani- mas and Raza, which together form an archipelago very dangerous for their impetuous currents. To the west of Las Animas there are a number of small islands close to the mainland, which are not well known by name in geography. Between mainland and these, to the eastward, is the Canal de Ballenas, or Whales, which divides off the sixteenth, or great island of Angel de la Guarda, 50 miles in length and about 15 in breadth. Northward of Angel, some fifty miles in the bay of San Felipe de Jesus, is the rocky islet or farallpn of Santa Felicia. Twenty miles farther northeast is the seventeenth island, called San Eugenie, about seven miles around, and sometimes called Farallon de San Eu- genio, from a rocky islet close by, off the southern coast of which are some extremely dangerous sunken rocks and ledges. Immediately north of San Eugenio, at the narrowest part of the gulf, are the eighteenth islands, known as Las Reyes, which block the entrance of the Colorado and gulf Above these last are a number of largo flat islands, formed by the bores of the river and gulf, which are enclosed within the banks of the river, and a regular network of simi- lar formations is nearly to the junction of the Gila, and which all belong to Mexican territory. Coming down the gulf from the river on the loest shore of Sonoi'a, or the eastern waters of the gulf, is first the small island of Patos, which is some 130 miles south- east of San Eugenio. A narrow strait divides this from the large island of Tiburon, some twenty miles long and ten broad, and which can be seen from above the city of Hermosillo in clear weather. Below Tiburon, some 25 miles, in San Pedro Martyr Island, and 30 miles farther south, is that of San Marco, a few miles north of Guaymas, the bay of which port has several smallfislets. To the south of Guaymas, 50 miles, is the small island of Lobus. At the mouth of the River Smaloa are five or six small islands, among the principal of which is San Ignacio and Macapula. Below the mouth of the River Culiacan are several long, low islands along the coast, which are, however, very little known in nav- 28 igation or commerce. To the south of these last, to the port of Mazatlan, the coast is generally clean, with open aspects ; seaward at the mouth of the gulf, where the ocean swells, in the hurricane months, beat with immense surfs and rollers of overwhelming force After the stormy season has passed, the navigation of the gulf is one of the safest and most delightful in any sea, for more than eight months of the year. But the above-named islands of the eastern waters belong in no way to Lower Calirornia, but pertain entirely to Sinaloa and Sonora. All this immense stretch and lines of 1,200 miles of gulf coast and 700 miles of ocean shores, with their islands, are entirely unfixed MjdrograplncaUy, either in books, charts, or maps, except a few points by Spanish navigators, iDCtween 1770 and 1800, by the Eughsh and French, between 1824 and 1850, and by Americans, between 1846 and 1866, the most accurate of which are those of Admiral Belcher in 1839, confined, however, only to four or five localities on the ocean coast. With the wealth of minerals, fisheries, agriculture, and commerce, which is opening on these wonderful territories, and the Immense amount of shipping which sails dail}'^ within sight of its sea lines, the scientific survey of them by competent persons is loudly called for by the principal maritime powers of the world : probably it could be better done by a joint co.nmission of lydro- graphists of the great naval powers. There is not an island in all those we have mentioned, in the gulf or in the Pacific, except Santa Margarita, Cedros, and Guadelupe, whose true positions or superficial dimensions are known in navigation, geography, or history, and only a few of them are inhabited, and then only by a few fishermen. If all these islands, which contain immense resources in excellent harbors, in minerals, in fisheries, and in pearl-oyster banks, were joined together, they would make a district of country 100 miles long by 80 miles broad, and at a rough estimate they would make one-fifteenth of the superficies of the peninsula. THE HARBOKS, BATS, AND PORTS OF THE PENINSULA. Coming from San Diego to the south on the Pacific, the best known harbors are: First. The Bay of Todos Santos, near which is the well-known locality, called the Sausal de Comacho, where salt has been procured in abundance since 1855. It makes a fine harbor for vessels under 400 tons, and is now often resorted to by whalers and others. A grant of great extent covers the jands of this bay claimed by Jose Y. Limantour. Second. To the southward, about 100 miles, is tlie fine bay and port of San Quintin, sometimes called in maps and charts San Francisco, and also Bay of the Eleven Thousand Virgins of Cologne: San Quintin is the term now generally known in navigation. The apex of the bay at the north has valuable salinas or salt-beds, which have been worked since 1853, and the sail from its superior quality is well known in the San Francisco markets. A large grant of land is also laid down here as belonging to Limantour. Third. To the southward, some 130 miles, is the great bay of Sebastian Vis- caino, made by Cedros and Natividad Islands ; its western aspects are ■ utirely open to the west for one-half of its length. It has a small arm at its northern apex, called Pescado Blanca, where is a valuable salt-bed, in the vicinity of which is the grant of Mr. Millatowitch, a well-known Russian citizen of California. Several extensive lagoons make into the land, according to Payot's map, which are laid down in no other map. A third grant, some 60 miles long and 20 broad, covering all the neighboring lands of the bay, is also here claimed by Limantour. Valuable salinas are found all along the shores of this bay, which was discovered by Viscaino in 1602, though on many maps it is put down as the Bay of San Francisco and also Saint Sebastian ; on others, the Bay of Magdalena is located here. '29 Fourth. Some ten miles below Natividad Island is the small bay of San Bar- tholomew, often called Turtle Bay, which contains valuable fisheries of turtle, used for the supply of the San Francisco market. Fifth. One hundred miles below San Bart's, after doubling Point Abreojos, is Ballenas Bay, which in 27° runs into the laud for twenty miles, and is the resort of innumerable whales in the calving season, and from which hundreds of tons of oil have been shipped to San Francisco and the East since 1853. Sixth. One hundred and fifty miles below Ballenas opens up the Great Gulf or Bay of La Magdalena, discovered by Cabrillo in 1542, rediscovered by Yiscaino in 1602, and found from the descriptions of this last by the Jesuit Father Guillen in 1719. It is often mentioned by Spanish navigators, and is one of the most extensive on the west coast of America, but was not known properly in naviga- tion till Admiral Belcher's visit of 1839. The bay forms into a great many rami- fications and arms, and is about fifty miles in extreme length, with several low, sandy islands, as wqII as rocky ones ; its breadth ranges all the way from five to twenty miles. For the last fifty years it has been the resort of American whalers, sealers, and other hunters, and since 1854 regular establishments of this class from California have aggregated on its shores until quite a settlement is now formed. It is also much resorted to by Chinamen from San Francisco for gathering the raollusk called aulon, the meat of which is so much esteemed by the wealthy people of China. Seventh. Some fifty miles below Magdalena the small bay of Todos Santos Mis- sion is reached, near which are some of the most fertile spots of the peninsula. Eighth. About thirty-five miles farther (south), at the extremity of Lower Cali- fornia, Cape San Lucas, the most celebrated promontory on the west coast of America, is reached. And here we begin to turn north and east up the grand portals of the Gulf of California, of whose best harbors, ports, and bays, we shall now make such detail as is warranted from what has been noted of them, not a single one of which, however, has been properly surveyed. Ninth. The first is the roadstead of the old Mission of San Jose, often called San Jose del Cabo or of the Cape, from its proximity to Cape San Lucas, and appears to be the same as the Bay of San Bernarbe or Porto Seguro of old charts ; from the cape it is distant some twenty miles near the mouth of the small river or arroyo of San Jose. This is a frequent stopping-place for whalers and the schooners running from Guaymas, Mazatlau, San Francisco, and San Bias, and a considerable quantity of fertile land is found in its vicinity. Tenth. Eighty miles above San Jose is the well-known bay of La Paz, which penetrates the land to the south some twenty-five miles from Espiritu Santo Island, having a varying breadth of from six to ten miles. This is one of the safest and finest bays and harbors in the two Californias, and has been known in navigation and history for 350 years. It has been celebrated all this time for the abundance of pearl-oysters, and has produced pearls among the most valued gems of the jeweller and lapidary, and prized in the regalia of kings, emperors, and princes. It was the centre of operations of the American naval and military forces in 1846 to 1848, and is now the depot for the Mexican coast line of steam- ers from San Francisco. Since 1830 it has been the capital of Lower California, where all government operations centre. Tenth. Tlie next harbor is the small one of the old Presidio of Loretto. which has been known since 1700. It is formed by the Coronado and Carmen Islands, and makes a fine anchorage in ordinary seasons ; in its vicinity the pearl-oyster was formerly found in the greatest abundance. Eleventh. The next harbor north of Loretto of value is that of Moleje, so called from an Indian camp found there by the Jef=uits before 1730. It is about 20 miles deep by an average of five, and is considered the best in the gulf after La Paz. It is famous for the extent of its pearl-oyster beds, and was resorted to by the divers from the Sinaloa coast in the time ol Cortez. Twelfth. Above Moleje the coast of the peninsula abounds in small harbors, 30 none of which are frequented or much better known than in the time of Father Consan's voyage of 1746, the countrj^ having very few inhabitants above Moleje. The large bay of Los Angeles, 180 miles above Moleje, capable as is said of hold- ing hundreds of small vessels, has been frequently resorted to within the last ten years, and its waters and those of Angel Island abound in a peculiar species of whale and rich banks of pearl-oysters. Copper, sulphur, and argentiferous lead minerals are said to be very abundant in the country around its shores, as intimated by Consag in 1746. Thirteenth. Above this bay of Los Angeles, some 160 miles, is the bay and port of San Felipe Jesus, which has been established since 1858, principally by the exertions of Mr. Willatowich, who has here another grant of land. This is described as a fine little ha"bor, and has been used by American vessels bound to the Colorado, and for connnunications overland to the bay of San Quintin on the ocean coast, and for trading with the Indian tribes in the country around the peninsular head of the gulf. It was formerly, with that of Los Angeles, used by the Jesuits and the Dominicans for conveying stores and effects in the founding of the missions on the ocean coast above Santa Grertrudes, between 1760 and 1800, and since 1858 has attracted considerable attention. There is now (1867) said to be a small settlement here. Above San Felipe there are no ports or harbors worth mentioning, as they are said to be shallow and but little frequented, or fitted for commerce, from the dangerous shoals and cayes formed by the deposits of the Colorado. All the forementioned islands, harbors, bays, and ports of the gulf, were first made known and named by Padre Pedro Ugarte, in his voyage up the gulf in 1721, in the sloop Triumph of the Cross, and more thoroughly and in detail by Father Fernando Consag in 1746, continued in small degree by Padre Winceslao Link in 1765 ; since that period nothing has been done in these gulf lines of any account. THE FIRST AND SECOND VOYAGES OF SEBASTIAN VISCAINO. Of the two voyages of Viscaino, in the seventeenth century, Taylor gives voluminous accounts, from which the following are extracts : "In 1596, Sebastian Viscaino was dispatched from Acapulco with three ves- sels, having on board four Franciscan friars, to make a settlement in the country of California, found by Fernandez Cortez, where he arrived after touching at the isles of Mazatlan. At the isles of Mazatlan fifty of his men deserted, and Vis- caino stretched across the mouth of tlie gulf and lauded first at the bay of San Sebastian, and, not finding this suitable, went farther up the bay of Santa Cruz, where Cortez had made his colony in 1537, and at which he found many remains. This bay of Santa Cruz, or Puerto de Cortez, is said to be the same now known as the bay of La Paz, the name given to it by Viscaino from the peaceable character of the Indians, who here received him with good-will. They found in the seas near by fish of all kinds in the greatest abundance, and pearl oysters very plentiful. One of his vessels was dispatched up the gulf some one hundred leagues to make further explorations, on returning from which a body of fifty of the men were attacked by a large number of Indians, who killed nineteen of the men and wounded all the rest ; the enemy, robbing the dead soldiers, decked themselves in their clothes and arms, and danced defiance to the invaders in sight of tlie ship. On arriving at La Paz, where he had stopped two months, Viscaino, finding his provisions running low, his houses being burnt, and his shipping getting out of repair, concluded to discontinue the enterprise, as too risky for his means and material, and, embarking his forces, arrived at Acapulco in October, 1596. During their stay in California, the four priests made diligent eff"orts to instruct the Indians in religion, and, with the humanit}- and prudence of Viscaino. succeeded in making them friends to the new visitors. "Philip II. having died in 1598, his successor, Philip III., in 1599, and twelve months after the death of his father, directed the Count de Monterey, still acting as viceroy, to dispatch Viscaino on a second expedition. 31 " The expedition, consisting of four vessels, the Capitana, Santo Tomas, the Tliree Kings, and a smaller boat for entering the rivers, sailed in May of that year, and arrived near the Mazatlan Islands early in June, from whence they departed for California, and on the 14th June anchored in the place where Cavendish had burnt the Santa Anna, and to which Viscaino gave the name of San Bernabe, referred to before in our account, and so called to this day in many modern charts, and which is the same as the Puerto Seguro of Cavendish. " At this place fish of all kinds were found in such abundance that boats could be loaded with very little labor, and pearl oysters strewed the shores in such unaccountable quantities as to make the beach appear like an immense pavement of brilliant mosaics ; game, wood, and water were also in abundance, and the Indian population was civil and numerous. " After four attempts to sail out of San Bernabe and frustrated by the north- 'west winds and fogs, the fleet finally got out on the 5th July, and passed the highlands northwest of the cape, known as the Sierra Enfadosa, and on the 20th Viscaino brought his vessel to anchor in the great bay of La Magdalena, discov- ered by Cabrillo, and some ocean points of which were mentioned by UUoa. The bay was found to be very spacious, and populated with numerous rancherias of docile Indians, and abounded in immense shoals of fish, whales, pearl oysters, seals of all kinds, mussels, and other marine animals. On the 28th July they left the bay, above which the land gradually fell down into a pleasant and level countrjr, the mountains retiring far inland, and on the 30th passed near to the mouth of a river with dangerous breakers. This fact has been often doubted ; but recent explorations of that vicinity, up to 1864, show that there are three streams above Magdalena, which in the tuinter season are full to the sea. A short distance above this they found a large bay, named by them from the immense number of whales seen, Baja de Ballenas, in the position of which no two maps or charts agree. It was inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, and all kinds of shell and scale fish were found in the greatest abundance ; pearl oysters were also found here, which seems to be their northern limits. Some eight leagues above this they came to an island called the San Roque, on the 31st July, and to another on the 5th August, called Asuncion, which seems to be the same as those situated a few leagues below the present Bartolome or Turtle Bay. The same abundance of fish and marine animals was met with here, and on shore they found a large salina. Passmg by a very high mountain above, of bare and naked rocks of varied and beautiful formations, which they named the Sierra Pintada, or painted mountain, where great mines of gold and silver were sup- posed to be. This mountain they were a week in passing, which on weathering, they passed the island of Natividad or Cabrillo, and came to anchor, on the 19th of August, under the isle of Cedros. Near San Bartolome, they met with immense quantities of bitumen of an amber color, which was likely, from the beds of asphaltum said to abound in that vicinity, and which they say had a very bad smell : this fact was also mentioned by Cabrillo. The weather was so bad at these places, then the last days of August, that he left and returned to Isle Cedros several times, from the prevalence of the northwest winds, and they were constantly being separated from the other ships. Cedros Island was found covered with trees of pine and cedar, and inhabited by numbers of bold Indians. To the north and east an immense bay formed, which is now named, and gener- ally acknowledged in geography, as the bay of Sebastian Viscaino, and not that just north of Magdalena Bay, as located by De Mofras and others. On the 9th September they left the island, steering northwest toward the mainland, and met with the Isle Cenizas ; shortly afterward, on the mainland, a bay called by them San Hypolito, surrounded by a very beautiful country, near which is situated at present the ex-Missions of La Rosaria and Santo Domingo, the bay appearing to be the same sometimes called San Francisco, and now known as Las Virgenes; four leagues from which was the bay of Santos Cosmo and Damian, near the shore of which was a large fresh-water lake and with a fine level country in the 32 neighborhood, which appears to answer to the present bay of San Quintin. In this vicinity they passed by the Mesas, or table-lands, of San Cyprian, which appear to be tlie same as the curious five Hummocks of Vancouver (1792), form- ing five distinctly separated hills rising from level lands, not far from which is the Cape Engauo of Cabrillo and Viscaiuo, supposed to be the same as Cape Cblnett of the present maps. The greatest confusion obtains in this part of Viscaino's account, and his chart, published by Navarette in 1802, gives scarcely any assistance in identifying his numerous anchorages ; this may be owing to the bad weather he had continually experienced. Passing the islands San Geornimo, Cenizas, Pajaros, and Sju Hilario, they came to the bay of San Simon and San Jude, placed now in the vicinity of the ex Mission of San Yicente, where the Indians were very troublesome ; and this character they bore as late as 1816, when they rose in rebellion. On the 1st of November, Viscaino left this bay, and, proceeding a few leagues above, came to another large bay sur- rounded by lofty mountains, which they named the bay of Todos Santos, a name which it retains to this day. Shortly afterward, on the 5th, they discovered the Coronadas Rocks, called Islas Desiertas by Cabrillo ; and a short distance north, on the 10th of December, they entered a famous port, called by Viscaino San Diego, which is the San Miguel of Cabrillo as now accepted in history. "The next expedition of marine surveys undertaken by the Jesuits was that of 1746, by Father Fernando Consag, of the missions of Dolores del Norte and San Ignacio. This indefatigable prlesi was a native of Austria, and came to California from Mexico in 1732; he died while superior of the missions, in 1759, at the age of 56. Having left Loretto in four open boats, the party arrived in a short time at the anchorage of San Carlos, in latitude 28°, from whence they departed from the head oi the gulf on the 9th June, 1746, to examine in detail the shores, ports, harbors, bays, islands, etc. As manj^ of the positions and places mentioned bj- Consag still retain their names on most of the charts and maps of the present time, but nevertheless are yet unfamiliar to seamen, and their localities little known even in the peninsula to this day with exactitude, and some not at all, we shall make merely cursory mention of them, for they are all yet to be hydrographically examined and located in all this dangerous navigation. The first place he reached was three leagues from San Carlos, called Santa Ana watering-place, which makes a harbor, tlie lofty capes of which are San Gabriel and Las Virgenes ; farther up was the bay of Trinidad, where there is a pearl-fishery, dangerous from reefs and islets ; at the extremity was a bay named San Bernarbe, with a low island near by abounding in sea-wolves. Farther on is the cape of San Juan Bautista, with a dangerous rocky coast; the land is low, of hard clay soil and red appearance. A day's sail beyond is the bay of San Miguel ; the anchorage is tolerable, and plenty of sweet water is near by. Close to this is the island TortoguiUa, sometimes called Cerro Blanco, the shore of whicli is troubled with dangerous currents, surfs, reefs, and rocks. Op- posite Cape San Gabriel commences the island of Sal Si Puedes, and a few leagues from the cape is the bay of San Rafael, into which empties a small stream, called Kadacaman ; in the shores are many caves and boiling springs, some of which springs are covered by the high tide ; the water of the bay is tinged in patches of red and blue colors. A large pond of good water was found in one part of the bay. and the Indians were docile and hospitable, but were enemies of the Yaquis of Sonora, begotten of fights and murders growing out of pearl-fisli- ing. A day's sail above San Rafael brought them to San Antonia Bay, in sight of a dark mountain, having two small rivulets in the vicinity, and a fine fertile country is seen. The next day a bay is reached, called Purgatory Bay, with sev- eral rivulets and much good country, and many hospitable Indians were found, to whom the father preached the Gospel; in the morning the boats were found aground, with only a fathom of water. A day's sail farther brings you to Cape Las Animas, a few miles to the north of which is the bay of Los Angeles, where a very troublesome and numerous tribe of Indians lived, and great ene- 33 mies of the pearl-divers ; their young females went entirely naked. A day's sail above the Los Angeles is the bay of Our Lady of Remedios, containing a .pearl-fishery, in front of which is the island of Angel de la G-uarda, which is very rugged and mountainous. The channel between the island and the coast was found so full of whales that it was called then, and is still known to this day as, the Canal de las Ballenas. "In these waters the party found valuable pearl-oyster beds, those near the shore being the best. On the mainland near by is a considerable rivulet; the anchorages in all these vicinities were found full of dangerous rocks above and below water. A short distance off is the watering-place of San Juan and San Pablo, near which is a red-colored hill. A day's sail above is a bay shaped like the letter G-, full of rocks, called the hay of San Pedro and San Pablo, the water- ing-places of which are not very good. A short sail above this bay is another very hirge and commodious one, capable of holding any number of vessels, called the bay of Snn Luis Gonzaga, in the vicinity of which was afterward founded the mission of San Francisco Borja ; in this bay were found great numbers of a variety of shells resembling the white pearl-oyster; also several rivulets of brackish water enter the bay, filled with fish ; and the Indians were very numer- ous. The party dug wells on the shore, but the water was found bad, but at the upper end of the bay is a good watering-place, called San Estanislao. In San Luis Gronzaga Bay were found pearl-oysters and palm-trees ; it was in this vicin- ity the Indians made the earthen jars mentioned by Ugarte twenty years before ; a dog was also found among them and mentioned as a special curiositj^, and their women went entirely naked. A short distance above Gonzaga Bay opens anoth- er bay, called La Yisitacion, which seems to be of little account. Above Yisita- cion Bay is that of San Fermin, which is the limit of habitation of the pearl- oyster; and a day's sail above is the bay of San Felipe de Jesus, and in another day's sail is that of San Buenaventura, '-ifter which are no more harbors, but all sand-flats and marshes. "At San Felipe, which is due east from the mission of Rosario on the Pacific, the water is very thick, of disagreeable odor and taste, and affects those who drink it with a sickness similar to scurvy ; the rivulet which affords it is on the north side, and the shores of the bay are mostly sandy, and the anchorages ex- cellent at high tides and in front of the bay is a high rocky islet or farallon. In these vicinities were seen great numbers of wild sheep and wild goats, and in the early mornings and evenings the land on the Sonora coast could be distinctly seen. About 40 miles above San Felipe some red-colored marshes are reached, not far from the mouth of the Colorado, near to which is a bow-shaped creek, formed by an island, where the water differs from that of the sea and is caustic, and causes such malignant sores and boils as to last for many days, taking off the very skin like a blister, as was mentioned in Ugarte's voyage twenty years before. At the inferior bay of San Buenaventura no good water was found. The party ascended the river, but, meeting with the dangerous bores, did not get up as high as the junction of Gila. Indeed, their canoes do not appear to have reached twenty miles from the mouth of the Colorado, when they returned to the gulf on the 25th July, and, after meeting with many dangers from currents, rapids, and storms, finally reached Loretto about the ioth of August, 1746, after an absence of sixty days. Father Consagsays, the reason why he mentions no latitude in his journal is, that they are all set down exactly in his chart transmitted to the vice- roy and published in Venegas' work, but the instruments of 1746 gave latitudes from thirty to sixty miles out of the way. It is the chart which is the basis of all other charts and maps of the gulf shores of California down to the year 1866, and, of course, is full of dangerous errors." The final attempt at the exploration of the gulf coasts of the peninsula under the Jesuits was that of Padre Wincesloa Link, a native of Bohemia, who had recently founded the Mission of San Francisco Borja (pronounced Boreas), which is situated in about 28° 30', midway on the parallel of the port of Los Angeles, 34 on the gulf, and the northern extremity of the bay of Viscaino, on the Pacific. Link, who had only then been a few years in California, instructed a number of his Indians in the management of boats, for the purpose of fishing and exploring the coasts of his mission district contiguous to the gulf, and by the aid of whom in 1765 he made partial exploration of the great island of the Angel de la Guarda from Los Angeles port. He traveled over the greater part of the island on foot, in which he met with several pleasant-looking valleys, but, finding no water, animals, nor inhabitants, concluded it useless to prolong his investigations, and returned to his port of departure a few days afterwards. He mentions that the island is about 51 miles in length, and only some six miles in breadth; Americans who have touched at this island and others in the vicinity, on their way to the Colorado, since 1850, affirm that there are valuable fisheries there, and the lands are full of copper, silver, and lead minerals, and in some seasons immense num- bers of a small and iDcculiar species of whales. Two years after this expedition of Link, in the vear 1767, the missionaries of the Society of Jesus were expelled from the establishments they had founded in California; and from that time to 1867, or the space of 100 years, the history of the peninsula is vacant of transactions connected with their order. NOTICES OF VOYAGES FROM 1800 TO 1846. In a fur-trading and ottei-huating expedition, fitted out from Boston in 1800, Captain O'Keene rediscovered the bay of Virgenes, now often called San Quintin, whereas present accounts make them two localities within a few leagues of each other. This voyage is stated to have returned immense profits. In December of the year 1807 the ship Dromio, of 600 tons, belonging to Bos- ton, commanded by an old Northwest trader, and carrying 26 guns and 108 men, sailed from that port for a smuggling voyasio on the west coast of America. After making many good sales between Chili and Mexico, she arrived at Shel- vock's Island, southwest from Cape San Lucas, near 21* latitude, in November, 1808, and employed her crew in killing fur seals, of which they succeeded in accumulating in the course of a fortnight 3,000 skins, worth much good money then in the Canton market, where the ship was bound. From this island, the latitude of which is not stated, they went to Guaymas in December, and sold some $150,000 of goods, and from thence to San Jose del Cabo; at both these places the ship's crew was treated with great kindness and liberality. Leaving San Jose on the 31st December, they arrived at the baj^ of Todos Santos on 4th January, 1809, which he places in 31" 36' lat. and 116'^ 22' long., and which is to the north of the bay of Virgenes. Here many Indians and but few Spaniards were met with, though they were not far from the mission of San Miguel, and succeeded, after trading with the people for 34 days, in exchanging most of the remnants of tlieir cargo for 1,700 fur-otter skins. "For their cargo shipped at Boston two years ago," says Captain Little, who wrote an account of the voy- age, " we had in its place $650,000 (coined), $40,000 in old silver plate, $10,000 in plata fina and pearls, 3,200 fur-seal skins, and 1,700 fur-otter skins." Between 1837-39, Dr. F. D. Bennet made a voyage in an English whaling- vessel to the Pacific coasts, in which they captured many sperm and other whales on the coasts of Lower California, and visited the settlements near Cape San Lucas. Between 1836 and 1846 great numbers of whalers, English, French, and American, recruited witli much advantage iu these southern settlements, principally at La Paz and San Jose del Cabo, and always found supplies of wood, water, fish, fruit, beef, and vegetables at reasonable prices. As many as ten whalers have been anchored at a time in these ports, and they are still resorted to, and offer cheap, reasonable, and convenient outfits to tlie best sealing and whahng grounds. THE PAST AND PRESENT POPULATION OF OLD CALIFORNIA. La Perouse, when at Monterey, in 1786, was informed by the Governor of the two Californias that there were then, in the 15 mission districts of the peninsula, 35 4,000 Indians and 54 Presidio soldiers. In Humboldt's " New Spain, " he states that, in 1802, there were not more than 5,000 Indians and others, and that the barbarous tribes to the north numbered about 4,000 more, or 9,000 in all. From the best public authorities, Alexander Forbes says there were, in IS.ST, not over 15,000 inhabitants of all kinds. Loretto contained 300 souls, while La Paz with the Real de San Antonio, contained 2,000 souls. In 1848, the village of San Jose del Cabo contained some 200 people. In 1842, the Mexican Congress admitted two delegates from the two Californias on a basis of .33,439 population, 12,000 of which were acknowledged as belonging to the peninsula. At the time of the American occupation of 1847 -'48, it was also admitted as numbering about 12,000 souls. The seven Dominican missions of the north sea coast are said to have contained 5,000 Indians in those establishments in the year 1800. When the American occupation ended, their vessels took away some 500 political refugees, who arrived in tlie different vessels-of-war at Monterey, in October, 1848, from the peninsula ports below Loretto. After these left, and in the fall of 1848, commenced a voluntary emigration from the peninsula to dig gold in the new placeres of Alta California, which was estimated to take off some 1,200 of the best classes of the population, about one-half of whom found their way back before 1855. It is estimated, in 1867, that there are about 26,000 people in the country from Stin Diego to San Lucas, about 1,000 of whom are foreigners, as miners, whalemen, traders, etc., including French, English, Germans, and Ameriran, two-thirds of whom are Americans ; the most of them arrived since 1855. No accurate account of the population has ever been pub- lished or ever ascertained since its foundation ; the old Spanish notices up to 1802 being merely confined to the mission colonies, or settlements. Since the year 1863 a regular monthly line of steamers plies between San Francisco and the Mexican coast ports as far as San Bias, touching at La Paz and San Jose del Cabo, and bringing Lower CaUfornia into steam connection from British Columbia to Acapulco and Panama, and soon to Chili, which is having an important influence on the political, social, and commercial affairs of the country. In February, 1867, a steamship company was organized in San Francisco to connect all the settled gulf ports of Lower California, which will greatly stimulate commerce, mining, and emigration. The several incorporated railroad companies to run through the southern counties of the State of Cali- fornia to the Colorado valley will also have, within the next 10 years, important effects on the destinies of the country. The same may be said of those pro- posed from the valley of the Rio Grande to the port of Guaymas, which will doubtless be accomplished before 20 years have elapsed. THE CLIMATE AND COUNTRY OF THE CALIFORNIA PENINSULA — RAINS WITHOUT CLOUDS. The climate of the country between the boundary and Magdalena Bay is one of the most delightful, salubrious, and equable on the face of the globe, and, if settled, would be among the most accessible and acceptable sanitariums in the world, and is admirably adapted to raising many of the fruits of the torrid zone, and all of those of the Mediterranean basin as well as all the vegetables and cereals of Alta California ; and all agree that they are of much better quality than those raised above San Diego. On the gulf shore, under the same parallels, it is not only much hotter, but is subject in the summer and fall months to ter- rible hurricanes and water-spouts ; but these do not occur every year, and prac- ticed mariners know how to avoid and escape from them to the ports close by with little difficulty. In the winter months, after the first rains of November to May, the transparency and delightful effects of the cooled atmosphere are said to be so exhilarating as to be unequalled in the world ; the moonlights are as bril- liant as those of Arabia Felix and Palestine, and good eyes can read print with ease from the light of the moon; the earliest notices since 1539 to 1867 remark these facts. • S6 A beautiful phenomena is experienced in the peninsular meteorologies which are felt on land and on sea, particularly on the gulf coasts, and we believe is known in no other country. This is the fall of rains in the summer and autumn, when the sky is without clouds and the atmosphere perfectly serene. Much has been written on this by various eminent savants, and which, as far as we are aware, is not accounted for. But may it not be the showers falling from those immense water-spouts or cloud-bursts of which frequent examples occur in tlie gulf shores, through tlie Colorado country, and below the Santa Barbara Channel, and as high north as the great basin of Washoe and Utah, of wliicli five or six recorded examples have occurred since 1861 ? May not tiaese sliowers, taken up by the whirlwinds generated by the cloud-bursts, sweep off the falling waters far from their centres, and, with the force of the terrific winds, carry the rains into perfectly hquiil atmospheres, where they deposit their drops upon tlie earth? This question may be propounded to scientific meteorologists. FOSSILS AND VALUABLE MINERALS. The peninsula is said even to exceed the State of Cahfornia in' the extent of its fossil remains of shells, fish, mammalian animals, and even, as is suggested, fossil man. There are immense formatious of fossil remains in the vicinities of Mag- dalena Bay, Loretto, and Moleje, noticed by the Jesuit writers and by Belcher and others. Argentiferous galenas are very common above Moleje, and pure sulphur occurs in heavy deposits near the volcano vicinities, not far from the same old mission. Copper ores abound in several localities between San Diego and Rosario, and two mines have been worked there ever since 1855, and copper ores are also said by the Jesuit writers to be very common[Jon the northern gulf coasts and islands ; tliose of Ceralvo, San Jose, and Espiritu Islands being very rich and now well known. It is likely, wlien the business is well established, that the copper deposits of the peninsula will be very profitably worked, from the prox- imities of all of them to harbors and ports, as in no other parts of the world are they so accessible to good seaports. Quicksilver ores are also said to be found near Santa Catalina Mission since 1858. The Salinas of the ocean coasts from San Quintin to Magdaleua are very numerous and plentiful, and the salt is easily gathered. The salt-mines of Carmen Island are said to be sufficiently extensive to supply the whole world, and large quantities of salt have been sent to San Francisco during the last ten years, as it is very dry, pure, and of the primest quality, and is taken out only a short distance from ship-anchorage. Before 1750 the Jesuits offered to the viceroy to entirely support the CHlitbrnia missions, if this deposit were granted to them by the King of Spain, but the offer was de- clined. For the last few years tlie Mexican Government has raised considerable revenues from farming out this salL-mine. All these salinas will add greatly to the resources of the country for the reduction of mineral ores and salting the product of the teeming fisheries of the coasts. THE SHELL-FISHERIES. Pearl-oysters are not found everywhere on the coast, but intercalate at inter- vals, preferring well-sheltered bays or harbors where fresh water empties ; but this rule is not invariable. They are met with, for over 1,000 miles of shore line between Magdalena and around the cape, and all the way up tlie gulf north above Angel Guardian Island, and the missionary writers state that after hurri- canes, they are known to have been thrown up on the beaches by the cart-load. There are, doubtless, many extensive beds never fished or even discovered in these little-known seas, as is the habit of the oyster family, and there is every likelihood they could be cultivated and increased as are the oysteries of Long Island and the Potomac, or of France and England. 37 The pearl-fislieries, which are always prosecuted near noon and in cloudless weather, are still pursued in the peninsula waters every year, and it is very likely the new divingj-apparatus and machinery, getting into such common use in San Francisco and other large ports for submarine operations, would succeed admirably in facilitating not only the finding and working of them, but in haul- ing larger numbers to the surface. * * * It is to be borne in mind that the value of good pearls will make it always profitable to look for them, and a num- ber one size and lustre is worth still from $5,000 to f 6,00(i, and even more, for single pearls. Ordinary pearls are always abundant every year, but extraordi- nary sizes and colors are very rare. The most splendid of the pearls in the Spanish regalia were brought fr m the Gulf of California before Napoleon's invasion, and they had always been in high demand in Spain S'ince the days of Cortez. An American minister, in 1863, says that some of these pearls were as large as pigeon's eggs, and were among the most valuable jewels in the crown regalia. Humboldt mentions' that, in 1802, a Mexican priest invented a diving- bell for the purpose of taking pearl-oysters, which he experimented on in one ot the lakes near Mexico City, over 7,000 feet above the level of the sea, but noth- ing more ever came of it. Tlie pearl-oyster ha been eagerly hunted in Lower California every year since the times of Cortez, and the early divers, even before his arrival, found them much easier than they did after 1750, and the Indians possessed great numbers of them, which they counted as money, and hung in strings as to this day they preserve their common shell money ; the early traders got great bargains by exchanging trinkets and knives for valuable gems. After heavy storms in the season of 1740, immense banks of pearl-oysters were thrown up by the waves, and completely paved many parts of the ocean coasts below and above Magdalena Bay. The Indians of the vicinities of the Mission of San Ignacio. then recently civilized, knowing the estimation in which these were held by the Spaniards, brought large quantities of pearls from this sea- upheaval to the mission, and sold them to Manuel Oslo and his fellow-soldiers for trifling values. With these treasures he procured his discharge, and, hasten- ing to Sinaloa, purchased boats, suiDplies, and men, and in 1742 was fortunate enough to fish up not less than 127 pounds' weight of pearls, and in 1744 the large amount of 275 pounds, all of which made Oslo the richest man in Lower California, and his descendants live there to this day. This lucky armador de perlas afterward commenced the first silver-mine near the Real de San Antonio, but he is said not to have made much money by his mining operations. All kinds and varieties of the cactus or prickly-pear family, amounting to some fifty distinct species, abound in every part of Baja California, and yield the most delicious and healthy quality of fruits in the greatest abundance. The family of the agaves (mercals, magueys, or century plants) are extremely abundant and varied, and it is likely in the future will mai