m-'<^- r-:'.v; ^c/.yi.y,f.^APo. UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. "I^^ .h THE YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT, in three parts 'containing catalogues of garden and slower seed. 6^/ PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS UNDER EACH HEAD FOR THB CULTIVATION OF CULINARY VEGETABLES AND FLOWERS : also, directions for cultrtating FRUIT TREES, THE GRAPE VINE, &c TO WHICH IS ADDED, A CALENDAR TO EACH PART t SHOWm& THE WORK ^'ECESSA■RY TO BE DONE II* THE VAKIOUS DEPARTMENTS EACH MONTH OP THE YEAR. THB -WHOLE ADAPTED TO THE CLIMATE OF THE UNITED STATES TWELFTH EDITION, WITH AN APPENDIX, CONTAINING REMARKS ON THE ALLEGED DISEASE OF THE POTATO, i.C \ BY THOMAS BRIDGEMAN J GARDENER, SEEDSMAN, AND FLORIST. NEW-YORK: FOR SAtE BY THE AUTHOR, BROADWAY, CORNER OF EIGHTEENTH STREET, J. M. Thorburn & Co., 15 John-street, Alex. Smith, 388 Broadway, Dunlap& Thompson, Broadway, N. Y. ; Win. Thorburn, Broiidwov. Albany: C. F. Crosman, Rochester; Ho- vey & Co., Joseph Breck & Co., J. F. L. L. Warren, Walker & Co., Boston : E. W. IJiill, Harlford. Conn. ; U. Landreth & Munns, H. A. Dreer, Philadelphia ; Gibson & Kitcliie, Newark, N. J. ; R. Sinclair, Jr., & Co., Baltimore: J. F. Cullan, Washington (.'ity : lleiny Cook, Alexandria, I). C. ; Frederii-k Wittuenn, Charleston, S. C. ; Mosely & Co., JMobile : Win. Dinn, Neu- Orleans ; Jas. M. Thorburn, St. Louis ; Ely & Campbell, H. Huxley, Cincinnati; Charles A. Peabody, Columbus, Ga. ; and other Seedsmen. — Also, by E. Walker, 114 Fnlton-street, N. Y. ; S. Babcock, Croswell & Jewett, New Haven, Conn. ; and Booksellers in general. 1847. -th Printed by A. Hani'ord, 58 Naesau-street. [Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen HundrtyJ and Forty-seven by Thomas Bridgeman, in the Clerk's Office of the Dis- trict Court of the United States, for the Southern District of New-York.] PREFACE The primary object in first publishing The Young Gar- dkner's Assistant, was to enable our respectable seedsmen, while furnishing a catalogue of seed for the use of the Kitchen and Flower Garden, to afford instruction, at a trifling expense, to such of their customers as had not a regular gardener, and thereby save themselves the blame of those who may not have given their seed a fair trial, for want of knowing how to dispose of it in the ground. On the appearance of another edition of this work, the Author cannot forbear expressing his sense of obligation to his patrons in general, and to his fellow-seedsmen in par- ticular, for the interest they have taken in circulating the book, thereby evincing their approbation of this humble attempt to serve both the seedsman and the gardener, by supplying directions for the management of a gai'den, in a manner calculated to insure success. Since 1829 this work has been gradually extended from 96 pages to its present bulk, and of two thousand copies which have been issued annually, one-half were sold from the seed store of Messrs. Thorburn, of New York. The Boston and Philadelphia seedsmen have also contributed largely to its circulation ; and the Author is gratified in learning that his labours are appreciated by eminent horti- culturists, as will appear from the following extracts : " Dear Sir — You will see by the next month's ' New York Farmer,' if you have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of your Young Gardener's Assistant were given as premiums by the State Agricultural Society.* Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the * The American Institute and other Societies have also awarded several copies of the work as premiums for superior specimens of Garden Products. IV. PREFACE. committee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was desers'ing encouragement, and that even in this small way we might be of service in bringing it before the public as WORTHY OP BEING GIVEN AS PREMIUMS. " Yours very respectfully, " ALEX.VNDER WaLSU. "Lansingburgh. November, 1835." Extract from a review of this work, in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, Sfc-, published by Hovey GteNEllAL REMARKS. 23 In the absence of boards, tread in the seed with your feet, or stiike on the bed with the back of your spade or shovel ; but this should not be done when the ground is wet. If it be necessary at any time to sow seed in exti'emely dry weather, it is recommended to soak the seed in water, and dry it with sulphur. This practice, with attentive water- ing, will cause the seed to vegetate speedily. If it should be requisite to transplant any thing when the gi'ound is dry, the transplanting should always be done as soon as the earth is turned over, and the roots of the plants, before they are set out, should be steeped in mud made of rich compost. I have, in most cases, recommended seed to be sown in drills drawn from eight to twelve inches apart, in preference to sowing broadcast, because the weeds can be more easily destroyed by means of a small hoe, which, if properly used, greatly promotes the growth of young plants. The following table may be useful to the gardener, in showing the number of plants or trees that may be raised on an acre of gi'ound, when planted at any of the under-men- tioned distances : Distance apart. No. of Plants. 1 foot 43,560 U feet 19,360 2 feet 10,890 2h feet 6,969 3 feet 4,840 4 feet 2,722 5 feet 1,742 6 feet 1,210 Distance apart. No. of Plant.9. 9 feet 537 12 feet 302 15 feet 193 18 feet 134 21 feet 98 24 feet 75 27 feet 59 30 feet 48 The preceding table may serve as a guide to such as are not expert in arithmetic, in laying out a garden, as it shows at one -view many proportions of an acre of land, in squares 24 GENERAL REMARKS. of different dimensions. The last line, for instance, shows that, if forty-eight trees be planted on an acre, each thirty feet apart, there may be forty-eight beds of thirty feet square, or thirty beds of forty-eight feet square, formed from the same quantity of land. An allowance of about one-eighth must, however, be made from the above calculation for walks and paths. The table may also serve to show the gardener how to dispose of any given quantity of manure, that may be allotted for an acre of ground. If, for instance, it requires three hundred and two trees to plant an acre when placed twelve feet from each other, it will require as many heaps of manure to cover the same quantity of ground, if dropped the same distance apart. It therefoi-e follows, that if one hundred loads be allowed to the acre, each load must be divided into three heaps. If seventy-five loads only be allowed, every load must be divided into four heaps, and so on in proportion to the quantity allowed. But if the gardener should choose to drop his heaps five paces or fifteen feet apart, he may make such distribution of his loads as to have one hundred and ninety-three heaps on the acre of land ; in which case by dividing each load into four heaps, he will require only forty-eight loads to cover the acre, and he may decrease the quantity still more, by allowdng greater distances from heap to heap, or by dividing his loads into smaller proportions, so as to accommodate himself to whatever quantity of manure he may allot to any given quantity of gi'ound. As it may not be generally known that some kinds of seed are apt to lose their vegetative qualities much sooner than others, the following hints are subjoined as some rule for the gardener's government, provided the seed is carefully preserved, and not exposed to excess of heat, air, or damp ness: GENERAL REMARKS. 25 Parsnip, Rhubarb, and other light, scale-like seeds, cannot De safely trusted after they are a year old. Beans and Peas of different species. Capsicum, Carrot, Cress, Leek, Nasturtium, Okra, Onion, Salsify, Scorzonera, and small Herb seed in general, may be kept two years. Artichoke, Asparagus, Egg-plant, Endive, Fetticus, Let- tuce, Mustard, Parsley, Skirret, and Spinach seed, may -with care be preserved three years. Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Kale, Radish, and Turnip seed, will keep four years, if properly attended to. Beet, Cucumber, Goui'd, Melon, Pumpkin, and Squash, also, Bumet, Chei-vil, and Sonel seed, have been known to grow fieely when five and even seven years old ; but it is not pnident to venture seed in the garden, of the soundness of which we are not certain. In order to put such on their guard as may attempt to raise seed either for their own use or for the market, I would observe that great care is necessaiy, as it is an indubitable fact, that if seed of similar species be raised near each other, degeneracy will be the consequence ; it is, therefore, difficult for any one man to raise all sorts of seed, good and true to their kind, in any one garden. If roots of any kind become defective, they are unfit for seed, as the annexed fact will show. I once jDlanted for seed some beautiful orange-coloured roots of Carrots, but as they had been previously grown with some of a lemon-colour, they produced seed of a mixed and spurious breed ; and as this is not a solitary instance of degeneracy from the like cause, I have come to the conclusion, that as in the animal frame, so it is in the vegetable system — disorders very fre- quently lay dormant from one generation to another, and at length break out with all their -sdgour; I would therefore advise seed growers not to attempt to " bring a clean thing out of an unclean," but if they find a mixture of varieties among their seed roots, to reject the whole, or they vdll in- fallibly have spurious seed. 3 26 GKNERAI, KEMAIIKS. TABLE AND EXPLICATION. *^* In order to aid the novice in gardoniiig, the following brief classification of such species and varieties as compiise our catalogue of vegetable seed is submitted, and it is pre- sumed that the connecting links, and explication of this table, will not be altogether uninteresting to the experienced gar- dener and seedsman. CATALOGUE. S "a a ti c c5 c . 6" Most esseiitinl Nutriment. 1 1 ..0.. . .0. . ..0.. . .0. . .0. . . .0.. ..0.. . .0. . ..0.. ..0. . ..0.. . .0.. ..0.. ..0.. . .0. . . .0. . . .0. . ..0.. ..0.. ..0. . ..0.. ..0.. . .0.. . .0. . ..0.. Celery ..0.. . .0. . ..0,. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. Kge Plant . . ..0.. fl Kiiilive . .0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. Leek n ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0.. . 0.. ..0.. ..0.. Okra 0.. . .0. . . .0. ■ ..0.. ..0.. ..0. . . 0.. . .0. . 0.. . ..0.. ..0.. ..0., Peas ..0.. .0.. ..0.. ..0.. ..0,. Radish . .0.. Salsify ..0.. ..0.. . .0.. 0. . .0. . ..0 ..0.. ..0. . . .0. . -.0.. - -0. . . -0. . .0.. In explication of the table, it may be necessary first to premise, that in the classification, as regards the genninating powers of different kinds of seed, it is conceded that if some of those denominated medium were put upon an ecpial foot- ing with some of the class denominated quick-growing, they would vegetate in about the same time. For instance. Peas GENERAL REMARKS. 27 would sprout as quick as Kidney Beans, with ttie same tem- perature ; but Peas, being hardy, are generally planted a month earlier in the season. If Beans were planted at the same time, they would rot for want of genial heat necessary to their germination. Many of the species denominated medium and tardy, re- quire considerable moisture to produce vegetation ; when not attainable, tardiness of growth, and sometimes total failure, are the consequence ; judicious gardeners, however, generally obviate difficulties of this nature, by sowing such seed at the most favourable seasons. Those who delay sowing Carrot, Celery, Leek, Parsley, Onion, Parsnip, Spinach, &c., until dry summer weather, render themselves liable to disappoint- ment and loss thereby. * As some gardeners are apt to attribute all failures of seed to its defectiveness, I shall, in the hope of convincing such of their error, offer a few observations under each head of the table. The Jirst and second classes, denominated hardy and half- hardy, are subject to risk in unpropitious seasons, from un- fitness of the soil to promote vegetation, rendered so by cold rains and variable weather. If sprouted seed 6ur\dve a severe chill, it is the more susceptible of frost, to which it is * As the matter relative to the first seven columns was in type previous to the introduction of the last two columns, I would here offer a few ob- servations illustrative of their object. People in general, from not con- sidering that the products of our gardens, being natives of the various cli- mates of the earth, have each its peculiar aliment, expect to raise whatever they may wish for at almost any season. By referring to the classification in the eighth and ninth columns, they will be at once convinced of their error, as it will appear evident that such vegetables as require heat will grow best in summer, while those whose most essential nutriment is moisture, must bo raised either in spring or autumn. It may be necessary to remind the gardener that, from the American spring being short, little can be done before the approach of warm weather ; it should therefore be our object to improve the autumn months in tlie cultivation of such vege- tables as can l)e brought to maturity before the setting in of winter. Having under each head of the Calendar recommended the most appropriate seasons for the dilferent articles, it is unnecessary to dilate faithcr here, except to invoke my readers to adhere strictly thereto. 28 GENERAL REMARKS. frequently subjected early in the season. Some species of plants that, in an advanced stage of growth, will stand a hard winter, are often cut off by very slight fi-ost while germinating, especially if exposed to the heat of the sun after a frosty night, or while in a frozen state. Cabbage, Carrot, Celery, Turnip, and many other growing plants, which survive the ordinary winters of England, are here classed as half-hardy, for the reasons above stated. The third class, or most tender species, frequently perish from excess of rain. Lima Beans, for instance, have often to be replanted three or four times in the month of May, before any will stand. Melons, Cucumbers, Egg-plants, Tomato plants, &c., are also often cut off by variableness of the weather; indeed, it is unreasonable to expect natives of tropical climates to thrive or even live in a climate adverse to that in which nature first produced them, unless protected or nursed in unpropitious seasons, as recommended under the head forcing vegetables. Those who plant tender things in open gardens early in the season, must reconcile them- selves to loss in the event of unfavourable weather, insteacJ of throwing blame on the seedsman. The fourth class, embracing such species and vaiieties as> from their nature, are apt to vegetate quickly, are very hable to be devoured by insects before they make any show on the surface. Turnip seed, for instance, will sprout ^vithin forty- eight hours after being sown ; and under favourable circum- stances, most of the species of this class will come up within a week ; but if insects attack the seed beds in dry weather, a total loss of crops will be the consequence. Every expcf- rienced farmer is convinced of this fact, by having frequently to sow his TuiTiip ground three or four times before he can get any to stand. Sometimes a sudden shower of rain will cause plants to grow out of the reach of insects, but every good gardener should have his remedies at hand to apply to seed beds in GEiXERAL REMARKS. 29 general, and especially to those in which plants are raised for the jiurpose of being transplanted. Those species and variclies embraced in the fifth and sixth columns, often take from two to three or four weeks to vege- tate in unfavourable seasons. Some plants are retarded by cold, others b}^ excess of dry weather ; and at such times, seed may fail to vegetate for want of pressure. In the event of drought after neavy rains, seed and young plants often perish through incrustation of the soil, and from other untoward circumstances, which can neither be controlled or accounted for, even by the most assiduous and precise gar- dener. It must, however, be conceded, that failures often occur, through seed being deposited too deep in the ground, or left too near the surface ; sometimes, for want of suffi- ciency of seed in a given spot, solitary plants will perish, they not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and very frequently injudicious management in ma- nuring and preparing the soil will cause defeat. I have been induced to expatiate, and to designate, in the seventh range of the preceding table, such plants as are gene- rally cultivated first in seed beds, and afterward transplanted for the purpose of being accommodated with space to mature in, with a view to answer at once the thousand and one questions* asked by inexperienced cultivators, at my counter. Some persons, from ignorance of the nature and object of raising plants for transplanting, ask for pounds of seed, when an ounce is amply sufficient for their purpose. For example, an ounce of Celery seed will produce ten thousand plants. An ounce of Cabbage seed vvdU produce from three to four thousand, sufficient, when transplanted, to cover nearly half an acre of land, which land, if sown with Spinach, for instance, would require from four to six pounds of seed. To prevent any altercation on this subject, I would obsen'e, in conclusion, that many other vegetables will admit of being transplanted besides those designated in our table ; but as there is considerable risk and trouble inseparable from 30 GENERAL REMARKS. the operation, it is needless to apply it, unless there are para- mount advantages to be gained, the reverse of which would be the case, under ordinary circumstances, with the gene- rality of those plants not thus designated. Instead of answering any more queries, I think I shall for the future follow the example of the truly eccentric Aber- nethy, and refer all enquirers for information to my books, which contain an answer to every important question that has been put to me on the subject of gardening since I became an author. T. BRIDGE MAN. *^* Previous to the commencement of our Catalogue, it may be necessary to remind the reader, that the directions which follow are founded on the results of practical experi- ence in the vicinity of New- York City, where the soil is generally susceptible of gardening operations toward the end of March. These directions may, however, be applied to all other parts of the United States, by a minute observ- ance of the difference in temperature. In the extreme northern parts of the State of N^w-York, as well as in all other places similarly situated, the directions for the beginning of Apiil will apply to the latter end of the same month, with very few exceptions. In our Southern States, the directions for APRIL, which may be considered as the first gardening month in the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, will apply to Janu- ary, February, or to whatever season gardening ojjcrations may commence in the respective States. In the varied climates of each particular State, if the same rule of application be pursued in accordance with the Calen- dar, success is certain. CATALOGUE, &c.. &c. ARTICHOKE. Artichaut. Cynara. VARIETIES. CjTiara Scolymus, or French. I Cynara Hortensis, or Globe. The gaxden Artichoke is a native of the South of Europe, and much cultivated for the London and Paris markets. It is a perennial plant, producing from the root annually its large squamose heads, in full growth, from June or July, until October or November. The Globe Artichoke, which produces large globular heads, is best for general culture, the heads being considerably larger, and the eatable parts more thick and plump. Both sorts may be raised from seed,* or young suckers taken from old plants in the spring. A plantation of Arti- chokes will produce good heads six or seven years, and sometimes longer ; but it must be obsers'ed, that if a suj^ply of this delicious vegetable be required throughout the season, a small plantation should be made from suckers every spring, for a successive crop, as the young plants will continue to produce their heads in perfection, after the crops of the old standing ones are over. The most likely way to obtain a supply of Artichokes from seed, is to sow the seed in the latter end of March, or at any time in April, in a bed of good rich earth, or it may be planted in drills one inch deep, and about twelve inches apart. The ground should be light and moist, not such as is apt to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence of • One ounce of seed will produce about six hundred plants. 32 AUTICHOKE. containing too large a proportion of sand, is liable to become violently hot in .summer, for this is extremely injurious to these plants. After the plants are up, they should be kept free from weeds, and the earth often loosened around them. The business of transplanting may be done in cloudy or wet weather, at any time after the plants arc from nine to twelve inches high. Having fixed upon a proper soil and situation, lay on it a good quantity of rotten dung, and trench the ground one good spade or eighteen inches deep, incor- porating the manure therewith ; this being done, take up the plants, and after shortening their tap roots a little, and di-essing their leaves, plant them with a dibble, in rows five feet asunder, and two feet from plant to plant, leaving part of their green tops above ground, and the hearts of the plants free from any earth over them, and give each plant a little water to settle the roots. The winter dressing of Artichokes is an important opera- tion; on it depends much of their future success. This should not be given them as long as the season continues mild, that they may have all possible advantage of growtli, and be gradually inured to the increasing cold weather; but it should not be deferred too late, lest by the sudden setting in of hard frost, to which we are subject in the Northern States, the work be neglected, and the plants consequently exposed to devastation and loss. In the first place, cut all the large leaves close to the ground, leaving the small ones which rise from the heaits of the plants ; after this, line and mark out a trench in the middle, between each row, from fourteen to sixteen inches wide, presuming that the rows are five feet apart, as directed. Then dig the surface of the beds lightly from trench to trench, burying the weeds, and as you proceed, gather the earth around the crowns of the plants to the height of about six inches, placing it in gently between the young rising leaves, without burying them entirely imdc;r it ; this done, dig the trenches one spade deep, and distribute the earth equally ARTICHOKE. 33 between and on each side of the plants, so as to level the ridges, giving them, at the same time, a neat rounding form; finish by casting up with a shovel the loose earth out of the bottom of the trenches evenly over the ridges, in order that the water occasioned by heavy rains, &c., may immediately run off; on which account the trenches ought to have a gen- tle declivity, as the lodgment of water about the roots in \vinter is the greatest evil and danger to which they are expos- ed, even greater than the most seveie frosts to which we are subject. The beds are to remain so, until there is an appearance of hard frost, when they should be covered with light dung, litter, leaves of trees, or the like, the better to preserve the crowns and roots from its rigour. Li this manner, the roots will remain in perfect safety all the winter. As soon as the very severe frosts are over, the beds must be lutcovered, and when you perceive the young shoots begin to appear above gi'ound, or rather when they are one or two inches up, then, and not till then, proceed to level down the beds, throwing the earth into the alleys or trenches, and round them in a neat manner ; then dig in the short manure, and loosen all the earth around the plants. At the same time, examine the number of shoots arising on each stool, and select three of the strongest and heallhiest looking on every stool, which are to remain ; all above that number are to be slipped off close to the roots with the hand, unless you want some to make new plantations with, in which case an extra number for that purpose are to remain on the parent plants, until they are about eight or ten inches high from their roots, or junction with the old plants, when they are to be slipped off, and planted in a bed prepared in the same manner as directed for the young plants, taking care, at the same time, to close the earth about the crowns of the roots, and draw it uj? a little to the remaining suckers. Observe, the spring dressing is to be given when the plants are in the above-described state, whether that happens in 34 ASPARAGUS. February, JNIarch, or April, occasioned by the difference of climate, in the respective States, or by the earliness or late- ness of the spring. The gardeners near London generally take off the side Slickers, or small Artichokes, when they are about the size of a hen's egg. These meet with a ready sale in the mar- kets, and the principal heads that are left are always larger and more handsome. The maturity of a full-grown Arti- choke is apparent by the opening of the scales ; and it should always be cut off before the flower appears in the centre ; the stem should be cut close to the ground at the same time. Artichokes are esteemed a luxuiy by epicures. To have tliem in peifection, they should be thrown into cold water as soon as gathered, and after having been soaked and well washed, put into the boiler when the water is hot, with a httle salt, and kept boiling until tender, which generally requires, for full-grown Artichokes, from an hour and a half to two hours. When taken up, drain and trim them ; then serve them up with melted butter, pepper, salt, and such other condiment as may best suit the palate. ASPARAGUS. AsPEUGE. Asparagus officinalis. VARIETIES. Gravesend. I Large Battersea. Large White Reading. 1 Large Green, or Giant. This plant is a native of cold climates, and is found grow- ing wild in Russia and Poland, wlieie it is eaten by the cattle the same as grass. It will cnduie the severity of our winters, and produce its buds, when the weather gets mild ; but as garden products are generally scarce after a hard ASPARAGUS. 35 winter, the gardener who studies his interest will make the most of the spring season, and raise all he can before the market becomes glutted ; to this end, he is recommended to prepare for forcing this vegetable, as soon as the coldest of the winter is past. [See article on Forcing Vegetables.) Asparagus may be raised by sowing .he seed in the fall as soon as ripe, or in ISIarch and the early part of April. One ounce of seed will produce about a thousand plants. It requires some of the best ground in the garden. The seed may be sown in drills, ten or twelve inches asunder, and covered about an inch with light earth. When the plants are up, they will need a careful hoeing, and if well culti- vated, and kept free from weeds, they will be large enough to transplant when tl«3y are a year old. Some keep them in the nursery bed until they are two years old. A plantation of Asparagus, if the beds are properly dressed every year, Avill produce good buds for twenty years or more. New plantations of Asparagus may be made in autumn, or before the buds get far advanced in spring, say in Febru- ary, March, or April, according to situation and circum- stances. The ground for the bed must not be wet, nor too strong or stubborn, but such as is moderately light and plia- ble, so that it will readily fall to pieces in digging or raking, and in a situation that enjoys the full rays of the sun. It should have a large supply of well rotted dung, three or four inches thick, and then be regularly tienched two spades deep, and the dung buried equally in each trench twelve or fifteen inches below the surface. When this trenching is done, lay two or three inches of thoroughly rotted manure over the whole surface, and dig the ground over again eight or ten inches deep, mixing this top dressing, and incorpo- rating it well with the earth. In family gardens, it is customary to divide the ground thus prepared into beds, allowing four feet for every four rows of plants, with alleys two feet and a half wide between each bed. Strain your line along the bed six inches from 36 Aht'ARAGUS. the edge ; then, witli a sparle, cut out a small trench or drill close to the line, about six inches deep, making that side next the line nearly upright ; when one trench is opened, plant that before you open another, placing the plants upright ten or twelve inches distant in the row, and let every row be twelve inches apart. The plants must not be placed flat in the bottom of the trench, but nearly upright against the back of it, and so that the crown of the plants may also stand upright, and two or three inches below the surface of the ground, spreading their roots somewhat regularly against the back of the trench, and at the same time drawing a little earth up against them with the hand as you place them, just to fix the plants in their due position until the row is planted ; when one row is thus placed, with a rake or hoe draw the earth into the trench over the j^lants, and then proceed to open another drill or trench, as before directed ; and fill and cover it in the same manner, and so on till the whole is planted ; then let the sm'- face of the beds be raked smooth and clear from stones, &c. Some gardeners, with a view to have extra large heads, place their plants sixteen inches apart in the rows, instead of twelve ; and by planting them in the quincuiut manner, that is, by commencing the second row eight inches from the end of the first, and the fourth even with the second, the plants will form rhomboidal squares, instead of rectangular ones, and every plant will thus have room to expand its roots and leaves luxuriantly.* * The above directions arc intended for famUy gardens. Those who may wish to raise Asparagus in large quantities for market, slionld prepare tlie ground with a plough, and plant two rows in each bed, wliich may be CiUTied to any length required. If several beds are wanted, they may be planted in single rows four or five feet apart, in order that tlie plougli may be worked freely between them Frequent ploughing will cause tlie roots to spread, so as to widen the beds, and the winter dressing may be per- formed in a great measure with the plough. After the Asparagus is cut, the ground between the beds may be ploughed, and planted with Cabbage, Potatoes, or any other vegetable usually cultivated in rows ASPARAGUS. 37 WINTER DRESSING OF ASPARAGUS BEDS. About the beginning of November, if the stalks of Aspar- agus turn yellow, which is a sign of their having finished their growth for the season, cut them down close to the earth, carry them off the ground, and clear the beds care- fully from weeds. Asparagus beds must have an annual dressing of good manure ; let it be laid equally over the beds, two or three inches thick, after which, with a fork made for the pm-pose, (which should have three flat tines,) dig in the dung quite down to the crowns of the plants, by which means the roots vsdll be gi'eatly benefited ; as the winter rains will wash the manure down among them. It is the practice with some gardeners to dig the alleys at every autumn dressing, and cover the beds with the soil taken out ; this may be done for the first two years after the beds are made, but not afterward ; as, when the plants are in full gi'owth, their roots and crowns extend into the alleys, and digging them up frequently de- stroys plants, or renders them too weak to produce buds in perfection. The beds will be greatly benefited if covered to the depth of several inches with leaves, sea-weed, or long litter from the livery stables. The seedling Asparagus should also have a slight dressing, that is, clear the bed from weeds, and then spread light dung over it, to the depth of one or two inches, to defend the crown of the plants from frost. SPRING DRESSING OF THE BEDS. This work should be done from about the latter end of March to the middle of April, or just before the buds begin to rise. After clearing away all long litter, or whatever may encumber the ground, spread the short dung over the whole surface, and dig it in : if the alleys be dug at the same time, it will be very beneficial to the plants. Care must be taken at this season not to wound the crowns with the tines of the fork, but forking the beds should not be neglected, as admit- 4 38 ASPARAGUS. ting the sun and rain into the ground, induces the plants to throw up buds of superior size ; to promote such a desirable object, the ground should be kept clear of weeds at all sea- sons, as these gieatly impoverish the soil, and frequently smother the plants. The gardeners of England raise Asparagus in great per- fection, and sometimes have buds weighing from three to five ounces each. Loudon says, in his Encyclopaedia of Gardening, that one grower alone has eighty acres entirely under this crop for the London market. Asparagus plants will not produce buds large enough to cut for general use, in less than three years from the time of planting, but in the fourth year, when the shoots are three or four inches high, they will bear extensive cutting, \^hich should, however, be discontinued when no large buds are thrown up. The best way of cutting is to slip the knife down perpendicularly close to each shoot, and cut it off slan- tingly, about three or four inches beneatli the gi'ound, taking care not to wound any young buds proceeding from the same root, for there are always several shoots advancing in different stages of growth. Asparagus is considered a wholesome vegetable, and should not be kept long after it is gathered ; after being well washed, it may be tied in bundles of about a dozen buds each, and boiled in water slightly seasoned with salt, until tender, which will be in about twenty minutes ; take it up before it loses its true colour and flavour, and seiTe it up on toasted bread, with melted butter, &c. 39 BEANS. (English Dwarfs.) Feve de marais. Vicia faba. VARIETIES. Early Mazagan. Early Lisbon. Early Lons; Pod. Large Windsor. Large Toker. Broad Spanish, Sandwich Bean. Green Genoa. Dwarf Cluster. White Blossom. Green Nonpareil. Sword Long Pod. The principal cause of these garden Beans not succeed- ing well in this country, is the summer heat overtaking them before they are podded, which causes the blossom to drop off prematurely ; to obviate this difficulty, they should be planted as early in the year as possible ; as recommended in the article, " Forwarding Broad Beans." They are generally planted in England, from October to April, for early crops, and from that time to July, for late crops. It sometimes happens that autumn plantings are injured by the coldness of their winters, but an average crop is generally obtained. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if a few of the best varieties of these Beans be planted in the open ground, as soon in the season as it can be brought into good condition, they will come into bearing in regular succession, according to their different degrees of earliness, and plant- ings may be repeated every ten days of the first spring month ; but it is only from those that are planted early that any tolerable produce can be expected, as they become defi- cient in quality, as well as in quantity, on the approach of extreme warm weather. In the Southern States they may be planted in succession throughout the autumn and winter months, which will cause them to bear early in the ensuing season. The best mode bf planting is in drills, drawn two inches deep, in which the seed Beans may be dropped two or three 40 BEANS. inches apart, according to their size, and tlie dnlls may be from two to three feet asunder. A strong clayey soil is the most suitable ; but they often do well in moderately light ground, pr<)^ided it be well trodden, or lolled, after the Beans are planted. As soon as the Beans are three or four inches high, they will need a careiiil hoeing ; and if some earth be drawn up to their stems, three or four times in the course of their growth, it will greatly refresh and strengthen them. When they arrive at full bloom, and the lower pods begin to set, the tops may be broken off. If this be done at the proper time, it will promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity ; for having no advancing tops to nourish, the Avhole effort of the root will go to the support of the fruit. Broad Beans are particulai'ly subject to green bugs. To- bacco water, or salt water, will sometimes destroy them , but the most certain way is to watch their first appearance, and pick off that part on which they first settle, and bum it ; or if such plants be cut down close to the ground, they will produce fresh shoots, which may bear a good croji. One quart of -seed Beans will be required for every sixty feet of row, allowing the smallest sorts to be planted about two inches apait, and the largest four inches. The beans should be gatliered young, and shelled while fresh. After having been waslied, let them be boiled in plenty of water with a little salt and a bunch of green parsley. They take from thirty to forty minutes to boil, according to age, and may be served up with melted butter, gravy, &c. ; but they are very good when cooked and eaten with fat pork, or good old-fashioned Hampshire bacon. BEAN'S. 41 BEANS. (Kidney Dwarfs.) Haricot. Phaseolns vulgaris, etc. VARIETIES. Early Denmark. Early Mohawk. Early Valentine. Early Yellow Six Weeks. Early Dun-coloured, or Quaker. Early China Dwarf. Early Rachel, or Quail's Head. Early Rob Roy. Early Black Dwarf. Large White Kidney Dwarf. White Cranberry Dwarf. Red Cranberry Dwarf. Yellow Cranberry Dwarf. Refugee, or Thousand to One. Marble Swiss Bean. Royal Dwarf Kidney, or French. These varieties of Beans, being natives of India, South America, and other warm cHmates, will not endui'e the least cold, and it is therefore always hazardous to plant them in the open gi-oiind until settled warm weather. The earliest varieties, if planted towaixl the end of April or the first week in May, will come to perfection in from six to eight weeks after planting. Some of the later varieties will keep longer in bearing, and ai'e esteemed by some on that account. These, with some of the early varieties, may be planted in the months of May and June ; and if a regular succession of young beans be required throughout the summer, some of the varieties should be planted eveiy two weeks, from the last week in April until the beginning of August.* These Beans require a light, rich soil, in which they should be planted in hills, three or four in a hill, or drills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or throe inches from each other ; the drills may be from two to three feet apart. The Refugees do best when planted in hills. As the Beans pro- gress in growth, let them be carefully hoed, drawing some * Some gardeners, anxious to have Beans early, are apt to begin planting too soon in the season, and very frequently lose their first crops. It should be recollected, that these Beans are ne.xt to Cucumbers and Melons as re- gards tenderness, and will always grow quicker and yield better, if the planting be delayed until settled warm weather. The Early Mohawk is the hardiest, and may sometimes succeed well, if planted about the middle of April, but it is much safer to delay the planting of any quantity until towards ihe end of the month. 4* 42 BEANS. eajth up to their stems at the same time, which will cause them soon to be fit for the table. One quart of Kidney Beans will plant from three hundred and fifty to four hundred hills, according to the size of the Beans, allowing four Beans to each hill, or from two hundred and thirty to two hundred and sixty feet of row, allowing six Beans to every foot. These Beans should not be suffeied to get old and tough before they are gathered; be careful in trimming them, to strip off" tlie strings. To effect this desirable object, break them across ; and, in order to pie.serve theii' greemiess, soak them in salted water for a short time, then put them into the water while boiling, which should be previously seasoned with salt. ^Vhen they are tender, Avhich will be in from fif- teen to twenty minutes, take them \i\) and drain them through a collander, in order to render them capable of absorbing a due share of gravy, melted butter, &c. BEANS. (Pole or Running.) Haricots a rames. Phaseolus Limensis. A'ARIETIES. Large White Lima. I Speckled Lima Phaseolus JMuliiflorns VARIETIES. Scarlet Runners. White Dutch Runners. Dutch Case Knife, or Princess. Asparagus, or Yard Long. London llorticulturaL French Bicolour. Ited Cranberry. AVliite Cranberry. These species and varieties of Beans may be planted early in the month of May and in June, either in hills three feet distant from each other, or in drills about two inches deep, and the Beans two or three inches apart in the diills. BEANS. 43 The poles should be eight or ten feet long, and may be fixed in the ground before the Beans are planted. The varieties of Lima Beans should not be planted in the open groumd until the second week in May, unless the sea- son be very favourable, and the ground warm. As these Beans are apt to get rotten by cold and damp weather, let six or eight be planted half an inch deep round each pole, and afterward thinned, leaving three or four good plants in a hill, which hills should be full four feet distant from each other every way. The soil for Running Beans should be the same as for Dwarfs, except the Lima, which require richer ground than any of the other sorts. A shovelful of rich light compost, mixed with the earth in each hill, would be beneficial. If any varieties are wanted before the ordinary seasons, they may be planted in flower-pots, in April, and placed in a greenhouse or garden frame, and being transplanted in May, ■with the balls of eaith entire, will come into bearing ten or fourteen days earlier than those which, in the first instance, are planted in the open ground. It will require about a quart of Lima Beans to plant one hundred hills. A quart of the smallest-sized Pole Beans will plant three hundred hills and upward, or about two hundred and fifty feet of row, and the largest runners will go about as far as the Lima Beans. Lima Beans should be shelled while fresh, and boiled in plenty of water imtil tender, which genei'ally takes from fif- teen to twenty minutes. The mode of cooking and jJrepar- ing the other sorts, is the same as for Kidney Dwarfs. 44 BEET. BEET. Betterave. Beta vulgaris. VARIETIES. Early Blood Turnip-rooted. Early Scarcity. Early Long Blood. Mangel VVurtzel. Extra Dark Blood. French Sugar, or Silesia. Yellow Turnip-rooted. Sir John Sinclair's. Beets, in their several varieties, are biennial, and tlie best blood-coloured are much cultivated for the sake of their roots, which are excellent when cooked, and very suitable for pickling after being boiled tender ; they also, when sliced, make a beautiful garnish for the dish, and the young plants are an excellent substitute for Spinach. The Mangel Wurtzel and Sugar Beets are cultivated for cattle. Domestic animals eat the leaves and roots with great avidity. They are excellent food for swine, and also for milch cows ; and possess the quality of making them give a large quantity of the best-flavoured milk. The roots are equally fit for oxen and horses, after being cut up into small pieces and mixed with cut straw, hay, or other dry feed.* A small bed of the earliest TuiTiip-rooted, and other es- teemed kinds of Beets, may be planted in good rich early ground the first week in Apiil, which, being well attended to, will produce good roots in June. Draw drills a foot apart, and from one to two inches deep ; drop the seed along the drills one or two inches from each * An acre of good, rich, loamy soil has teen known to yield two thou- sand bushels of beet-roots, some of which weighed from fifteen to twenty pounds each. To produce such enormously largo roots, they should be cultivated in drills from two to three feet apart, and the plants thinned to ten or twelve inches in the rows. It is generally conceded, however, that moderate-sized roots contain more saccharine matter, in proportion to their bulk, than extra large roots, and that twenty tons, or about seven hundred bushels, are a very profitable crop for an acre of land, and would be amply suflicient to feed ten cows for three or four months of the year. A gen- tleman in Connecticut computes the products of one-fourth of an acre of^ good land, at eight tons, which, he says, will support a cow the whole year. He allows five tons to feed on for nine months, and the other three tons to be sold, and the proceeds applied to the purchase of other food, to be given from the time the roots fail in the spring, until new roots are produced. other, and cover tliem with earth. When the plants are up sti'ong, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches from each other in the rows. The ground should be afterward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds. If the planting of Beet seed, for general crops, be delayed until May or June, the roots will be much larger and better than those from earlier planting, which, from being frequently stunted in growth by the various changes of weather, become tough, stringy, and of unhandsome shape. In case of the failure of crops, or of unfavourable weather in June, Beet seed planted the first week in July will sometimes pi'oduce large, handsome roots, Avhich may be preserved for winter use. The most suitable ground for Beets is that which has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh ma- nure, provided it be well pulverized. It is always best to thin Beets while young. If the tops are used as a vegetable, they should not be left too long for this pui-pose, or they will greatly injure the roots of those that are to stand. Beds that are to stand through the sum- mer, should be kept clean by repeated hoeings ; and the roots intended for winter use should be taken up in October, or early in November, and stowed away, as directed in the calendar for those months. Allowing Beet seed to be planted on the gardening plan, it will require at the rate of ten pounds for an acre of land, which is two pounds and a half for a rood, and one ounce for every perch, pole, or rod. If cultivated on the field sys- tem, that is, by planting them a sufficient distance apart to admit of ploughing between each row, one half the quantity of seed wdll be sufficient, or even less, if sown regular. If it be an object with the cultivator to save his seed, he may drop some in each spot where a jjlant is required, and thin them as before directed. It may be necessary to add, that one pound of Beet seed will measure about two quarts, and as each capsule contains four or five small seed, thinning out the surjilus plants is in- dispensable to the production of good roots. 46 BORECOLE, OR KALE. BORECOLE, OR KALE. Caou Frise Vert. Brassica okracea, etc. VARIETIES. Green Curled, or Scotch. Dwarf Brown, or German. Purple Fringed. Jerusalem, or Buda. Cesarean Kale. 'I'liousand-headed Cabbage. TiiEiii: are several sub-varieties of this genus of plants besides those above specified, most f)f which have large open heads, with curled wrinkled leaves. The Dwarf Curled, or Finely Fringed sorts, are much cultivated in Eui'ope for the table; and the coarse and tall-growing are considered pro- fitable for cattle. The Thousand-headed Cabbage, and Ce- sarean Kale, grow from three to five feet high, and branch out from the stem, yielding an abundant supply of leaves and sprouts in the winter and spring. For the garden, these several varieties may be treated in every respect as Winter Cabbage. The seed may be sown fi'om about the middle of May to the first week in June, and the plants set out in the month of July, in good rich ground. They are never so delicious as when rendered tender by smart frosts ; they are valuable plants to cultivate, paiticu- larly in the more Southerly States, as they will there be in the greatest perfection during the winter months ; they will also, if planted in a gravelly soil, and in a sheltered wai'm situation, bear the winter of the Western States ; and may be kej)t in great perfection in the EastciTi States, if taken up before the frost sets in with much severity, and placed in trenches, up to their lower leaves, and then covered with straw or other light covering : the heads may be cut off as they are required for use ; and in the spring, the stems being raised up, will produce an abundance of delicious greens. One ounce of good Borecole seed will jiroduce about four thousand plants, and may be sown in a border four feet by ten, or thereabout. BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 47 BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Chou de Bruxelles agets. Brassica oleracea. This plant frequently grows from three to five feet high, and produces from the stem small heads resembling cabbages in miniature, each being from one to two inches in diameter. The top of the plant resembles the Savoy, when planted late. The sprouts are used as winter greens, and they become very tender when touched by the frost. The seed may be sown about the middle of May, in the same manner as Btn-ecole, and the plants set out with a dib- ble early in July. The subsequent treatment must be in every respect as for Borecole. Some gardeners, with a view to furaish the New- York markets Avith greens early in the spring season, when ve^e- tables in general are scarce, cultivate the common Rape, [Brassica Rapns ;) it being a good substitute for Brussels Sprouts, which are not always attainable after a hard winter. If Rape seed be soA\n early in September, the plants will survive an ordinary winter, and produce top shoots or sjjrouts early ; but it is best sown as soon as the ground is suscepti- ble of cultivation in the spring, say the last week in March. The sprouts should be cut while young, as such greens then command the best prices, and are more palatable than when far advanced in growth. It may be necessary to add that, in cooking these sprouts, as also Kale, Colewort, and greens in general, they should be put into hot water, seasoned with salt, and kept boilino- briskly until tender. If it be an object to preserve then' natural colour, put a small lump of pearlash into the water, which also makes the coarser kinds of cabbage more tender in the absence of meat. 48 BROCCOLI. BROCCOLI. Chou Brocoli. Bvassica oleracea Ilalica. Early White. Early Dwarf Purple. Early Green. Dwarf Brown. Large Late Purple. VARIETIES. Large Purple Cape. White Cape, or Cauliflower. Sulphur-coloured Cape. Branching Purple. Large Late Green. The several varieties of Broccoli and Cauliflower may be justly ranked among the greatest luxuries of the garden. They need only be known in order to be esteemed. The Broccoli produces heads, consisting of a lump of rich, seedy pulp like the Cauliflower, only that some are of a green colour, some purple, some brown, &c., and the white kinds so exactly resemble the true Cauliflower, as to be scarcely distinguishable, either in colour or taste. Broccoli is quite plentiful throughout England the greater part of the year, and it is raised with as little trouble as Cabbages are here. The mode of raising the purple Cape Broccoli is now generally understood in this part of America ; but the cultivation of the other kinds has been nearly aban- doned, on account of the ill success attending former attempts to bring them to perfection. In some of the Southern States, where the winters are not more severe than in England, they will stand in the open ground, and continue to produce their fine heads from No- vember to April. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, if the seed of the late kinds be sown in April, and the earlier kinds in May, in the open ground, and treated in the same manner as Cauliflower, it would be the most certain method of obtaining large and early flowers ; but as only a part of these crops can be expected to come to per- fection before the approach of winter, the remainder will have to be taken up, laid in by the roots, and covered up with earth to the lower leaves, in some sheltered situation, to promote the finishing of their growth. imoccoLi.. 49 Those who are desirous of obtaining Broccoli and Cauli- flower in any quantity, so as to have all the different varieties in succession throughout the winter months, should have places erected similar to some of our greenhouses : the back and roof may be made of refuse lumber, which being after- ward covered with fresh stable dung, will keep out the frost. The place allotted for Cape Broccoli and Cauliflower should have a g-lazed roof to face the south : the sashes must be made to take off in mild weather, but they should be always kept shut in severe cold weather, and covered with mats, or boards, litter, &c., so effectually as to keep out the frost. The hardy kinds of Broccoli may be preserved without glass, by having shutters provided to slide over the front in extreme cold weather, which may be covered over with fresh stable dung or other litter. If these plants get frozen, it will be necessary to shade them from the full rays of the sun until they are thawed ; this may be done by shaking a little straw on the bed as they lay. It may not, perhaps, be generally understood, that the sud- den transition from cold to heat is more destructive to vege- tables than the cold itself. If plants of any kind get frozen, and cannot be screened fi-om the full rays of the sun, they should be well watered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to thaw ; this will draw out the frost, and may be the means of saving the plants. The proper time for sowing the seed of Purple Cajje Broccoli is from the tenth to the twenty-fourth of May : * those who intend to provide a place for the winter keeping * It has been proved by repeated experiments, that the Purple Cape Broccoli succeeds better in our climate than any other variety; and, also, that if Broccoli or Cauliflower plants be retarded in g^rowth by extreme heat, they seldom arrive at full perfection. It is, tiierefore, important that the time of sowing the seed of Cape Broccoli be so regulated as to allow, say six weeks of the summer, for the plants to grow in, previous to their being transplanted, and about seven or eight weeks between that and the commencement of cool autumn weather, which is essential to mature them. If seed be sown much before the middle of May, or so early that the plants arrive at full growth in the heat of summer, and thereby become 5 50 BROCCOLI. of the other kinds, may sow seed of the most esteemed varie- ties at the same time, or in two or three separate sowings, a week apart. In order to insure good stout plants, let the seed at this season be sown in a moderately shaded border. It is best to sow it in shallow drills, drawn three or four inches apart, in which case, one ounce of seed will occupy a border of about four feet in width by twelve in length, and produco about four thousand strong plants. (See article Cabbage.) In the beginning of July, or when the plants are of suffi- cient size, they should be transplanted into extraordinarily rich ground, which should be previously brought into good con- dition. This being done, plant them in rows two feet and a half apart, and two feet distant in the rows. As soon as they have taken root, give the ground a deep hoeing, and repeat this two or three times in the course of their growth, drawing some earth around their stems. Some of the Cape Broccoli, if attended to as directed, will come to perfection early in September and in October ; the other kinds will produce their heads in regular succes- sion throughout the winter and spring months, according to their different degrees of earliness, provided an artificial cli- mate be provided for them. These, of course, with what- ever may remain of the Cape Broccoli, will have to be taken up early in October, and laid in carefully, with the roots and stems covered with earth as far as their lower leaves. Those who have not a place provided, may keep a few in frames, or in a light cellar ; but every gardener and country gentle- man should have suitable places erected for a vegetable that yields such a delicious repast, at a time when other luxuries of the garden are comparatively out of our reach. stunted, they ^eneraHy button, instead of forming perfect heads of flowers, and are consequently of no use but for cattle. In some of the Soutliern States, late planting of Broccoli and Cauliflower succeeds better than early, because tlie winters are calculated to mature these vegetables, from their not being subject to injury from slight frost, in a late stage of their growth. CAULIFLOWER. 51 CAULIFLOWER. Choufleur. Brassica oleracea botrytis. VARIETIES. Early White. | Late White. Hardy Red, or Purple Cauliflower. This is a first rate vegetable, to obtain v^^liich, great pains must be taken in every stage of its growth, the exti-emes of heat and cold being very much against it : which circum- stance accounts for good Cauliflowers being scarcely attain- able in unpropitious seasons, and which the novice falsely attributes to defectiveness of the seed. To produce early Cauliflower, the seed should be sown be- tween the sixteenth and twenty-fourth of September, in a bed of clean, rich earth. In about four or five weeks after- ward, the plants should be pricked out into another bed, at the distance of four inches from each other every way ; this bed should be encompassed with garden frames, covered wdth glazed sashes, and boards or shutters ; the plants should be watered and shaded a few days till they have taken root ; they will afterward require light and air every mild day throughout the winter ; but the outsides of the frames must be so lined and secured, and the tops of the beds so covered, as to keep out all frost. The plants should be well attended to until the time of transplanting in the spring ; and those who have not hand or bell glasses, so as to enable them to set some out by the latter end of March, should have a frame ready about the last week in February, in order that they may be transplanted to the distance of eight or nine inches apart ; this would prevent them from buttoning or growing up weak ; if this be not done, some of the strongest plants should be taken out ot the beds and planted in flower pots, which may afterward be placed in a frame or greenhouse, until the weather be warm and settled, which may be expected soon after the middle of .'52 CAULIFLOWER. April, Tliey should then be turned out with the balls of earth entire, and transplanted into a bed of the richest earth in the garden, at the distance of two feet and a half from each other every way ; the residue may be taken up from the frame the last week in April, or earlier, if the season proves mild, by means of a garden trowel, and tiansplanted as above.* The plants should afterward be well cultivated, by hoeing the ground deep around them, and biinging some earth grad- ually up to their stem, so as to push them forward before the approach of wann weather. When the soil has been drawn up to the plants some little time, fork the ground between the rows lightly over, which will promote their growth. They should be liberally supplied with water in diy weather; those out of flower twice a week, and those in, every other day, which will contribute to their producing very large heads. As the flower heads appear, the larger leaves should be broken down over them, to defend them from the sun and rain, in )rder that the heads or pulps may be close, and of their nat- ural colour. Plants from the autumn sowing are generally allowed to succeed best ; but good Cauliflowers are sometimes produced from seed sown in a hot-bed toward the end of January, or early in February. Great pains must be taken to have the bed in good condition to receive the seed ; when the plants are up, they must have air every mild day, and as they pro- * Many persons are apt to forget, that the successful cultivation of Cau- liflower depends on the particular seasons in which the plants are raised and set out ; and, consequently, instead of raising their own plants in the right seasons, apply for them at the seed-stores and ijardens, in May and June. Now, it should be recollected, that if early Cauliliowcr do not ar- rive at, or near perfection, by the end of June, the plants get stunted by the heat, and seldom yield any thins but leaves, except the summer should prove mild, in which case, some of the early plants may (lower in autumn ; but it is needless to risk the setting out of early Cauliflower plants later than April for the sake of such chance, because plants raised from seed sown about the middle of May, and transplanted in July, are by far the most likely to produce good fall Cauliilower. CAULIFLOWER. 53 gress in growth, they should have as much air as possible, consistent with their preservation ; but the beds must be kept covered up every night, as long as there is any danger of frost. When the plants axe three or four inches high, they must be pricked out three or four inches apart into another bed, and by the latter end of April they may be transplanted into the ground, and treated in every respect the same as the other. In the early part of May, Cauliflower seed may be sown in the open border, in drills, as recommended for Broccoli, and one ounce of seed Avill produce about four thousand plants. These plants should be pricked out in June, and transplanted into good ground early in July, to flower in Autumn : those that are not likely to flower by the last of October, should be taken up and provided for in the manner recommended for Bi'occoli. Cauliflower, and also Broccoli, should be gathered while the pulp is close and perfect. After ha\ang trimmed off" some of the outside leaves, let them be boiled in plenty of water seasoned with salt, taking care to skim it, and also to ease the cover of the pot so as not to confine the steam. Take them up as soon as the fork will enter the stems easily, which will be in from ten to twenty minutes, according to their size and age ; drain them so as to make them susceptible of ab- sorbing a due proportion of gravy, melted butter, &c. This renders them a palatable and dainty dish. 5' M CABBAGE. CABBAGE. Chou. Brassica oleracea, etc. VARIETIES. Early Tinperial. Early Dwarf Dutch. Early York. Early Sugarloaf. Early Kniperor. Early Wellington. Early Heart-shaped. Early London Market. Early London Battersea. Large Bergen, or American. Late Flat German. Large Green Glazed. Large Laic Drumhead. Red Dutch, for pickling. Green Glolx; Savoy. Large Cape Savoy. Green Curled Savoy. Turnip-rooted, in varieties The early .sorts of spring Cabbage may be raised in vaii- ous ways. Some sow tlie seed between the tenth and twenty- fouith of September, pricked out and managed the same as CauUflower jilants, only that they are moi'e hardy, and may sometimes be kept through the winter, without sashes. Some prefer sowing the seed in a cold-bed, covered by a garden frame with sashes. If this frame be placed on a warm border, and kejit free from frost, and the seed of the early kinds sown the latter end of Januaiy, or early in Feb- ruary, these plants will be better than those raised in the fall ; as they will not be so liable to lam to seed, and they will be more hardy, and full as early as those raised in hot- beds in the spring. Or, if a heap of fresh horse manure be deposited on the ground intended for the raising of early plants before the frost sets in, the same may be removed some mild day ia January or February, and temporary frames made by driving stakes in the gi'ound, and nailing planks or slabs thereto. The ground being then dug, the seed sown, and covered up with sashes, will soon produce plants in ])ei-fection. The frames should be well protected, by placing the manure around them, and covering the tops with mats, boards, &c., as directed for hot-beds in the Calendar for February and March . CABBAGE. 55 It is customaiy wath gardeners about New- York to raise tlieir plants in hot-beds. In order to do this, the beds should be prepared, as directed in a future page of this book, (see Index,) so as to be ready to receive the seed by the latter end of February, or early in March. Plants thus produced, as well as those raised as before directed, will be fit to trans- plant about the middle of April, and should be carefully planted, with a suitable dibble, in good gi'ound, from sixteen inches to two feet apart, according to size and kind : these by being hoed often, will produce good Cabbages in June. If seed of the large early kinds be sown in a warm border, early in April, they will produce plants fit to transplant in May, which will make good Cabbages for summer use.* The seed of Red Cabbage may be sown toward the end of April or early in May, and that of Savoys and late Cab- bage in general, may be sowti at two or three different times, between the middle and the end of May, in fresh rich ground. The most certain way of raising good strong plants in the summer season, is to sow the seed in a moderately shaded border, in shallow drills drawn three or four inches apart. One ounce of seed sown in this manner, will occupy a bor- der of about four feet in Avidth by twelve in length, and pro- duce about four thousand stout plants ; whereas, if seed be sown broad-cast, as is the usual custom, two ounces of seed * As numerous species of insects attack plants of the Brassica or Cab- ba?e tribe, in every stage of their growth, great caution is necessary in their cultivation. For a prevention to the attacks of fleas or flies, see page 19 of the General Remarks. Perhaps the most eftectual way of saving plants from grub-worms, is not to transplant any, during the month of June. Seed beds are very seldom attacked ; but if they should be, they may be protected by digging trenches around tliem, and throwing in lime, salt, or ashes, sufficient to prevent the ingress of the worms. If seed of the vari- ous kinds be sown at the times recommended, the early varieties will be so far advanced in growth before tlie grub-worms prevail, as to be out of their reach ; and by the time the late sown plants are ready to transplant, the worms will be harmless, because they turn gray toward the end of June, and by the middle of July, the time recommended for general transplanting, the danger from grub-worms is over. For the destruction of caterpillars, see General Remarks, page 20. 56 CABBAGE. may not produce so many good plants, as the one ounce on the plan recommended. The Bergen, and other large kinds, should be transplanted tlie second and third week in July, in rows thirty inches asunder, and the plants about two feet apart in the rows : the Savoys and smaller sorts may be planted about the same time, but from four to six inches nearer every way. Cabbage succeeds best in a fresh rich soil, and the ground should be deeply hoed or ploughed, at least three times, dunng their gi'owth. The Bvassica Rapa, or Turnip Cabbage, produces its bulb, or protuberance, on the stems above ground, immediately under the leaves. It is eatable when young, or about the size of a garden Turnip. The seed may be sown in April or May, and the plants afterward treated the same as Cabbage, only that in earthing up the plants you must be careful not to cover the globular part. They are much more hardy than Turnips. In England the bulbs often grow to upward of twenty inches in circum- ference, and weigh fiom ten to twelve pounds. They are cultivated for the feeding of cows and sheep, as well as for table use ; in either case they treat them as they do Cabbage, or sow them like Turnips, and afterward hoe them out to proper distances. The Brassica JYapns, or Turnip-rooted Cabbage, has an oblong thick root in the form of a winter Radish ; it is ex- tremely hardy, and will survive very hard frosts ; the seed should be sown in rich gi'ound, and treated in every respect as Turnips, observing to thin the plants with a hoe to the dis- tance of sixteen inches apart. Their roots will be much larger and better when treated in this way, than if trans- planted. The Brassica JSytprts, variety escuhnia, is sometimes culti- vated as a salad herb. It is held in great esteem by the French as a culinaiy vegetable, and is called the Navet, or COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. 57 French Turnip. In France, as well as in Grermany, few great dinners are served up without it, in some shape or other. COLEWORT, OR COLLARDS. Chou vert. Brassica ohracea. This is a species of Cabbage which is eaten when young; it so nearly resembles the early kinds of Cabbage, that it is seldom cultivated. The English frequently sow the seed of early heading kinds of Cabbage as a substitute, which being done at different seasons, enables them to procure a supply of fresh greens from their gardens every day in the year. This is not attainable here, on account of the extremes of heat and cold ; but Collards would prove very valuable and acceptable, in the event of an unfavourable season for fall Cabbage. If the seed of Early York, Early Dutch, or other early kinds of Cabbage, be sown in June, July, and August, and transplanted as they become fit, into good gi'ound, from fif- teen to eighteen inches apart, the first planting would make good heads for fall use ; and the plants of late sowings, if transplanted in September and October, in a warm border, would produce tender, sweet-eating greens for use in the early part of winter; the latter plantings maybe placed ten or twelve inches from jalant to plant. These could be easily sheltered on the approach of severe weather, without being taken up. The cultivation of Collards is well adapted to our Southern States, as there they need no protection in winter. 58 CARROT. CARDOONS. Cardon. Cynara cardunciihis. The Cardoon Artichoke, a native of Candia, is much cul- tivated in Europe for cuUnary purposes, such as for salads, soups, stew^s, &c. The stems of the leaves being thick and crisp, are the eat- able parts, after being blanched. They are in perfection in autumn and winter. The seed may be sown in a bed of rich earth in tlie month of April ; and one ounce will produce about six hundred plants : when the plants are up strong, they should be thin- ned so as to leave them four or five inches apart, to prevent them from becoming weak. They may be transplanted in June, at the distance of four feet from each other every way ; observe, before planting, to dress their tops and roots the same as Celery. As they advance in growth, they are to be earthed up for blanching, keeping the leaves close together ; this may be done with bass or matting, as practised with En- dive ; they are afterward to be earthed up gradually from time to time, until whitened to a sufficient height. As win- ter approaches, Cardoons must be taken up and laid away like Celery, or they may be preserved with sand in a cellar. CARROT. Carotte. Daucus carota. VARIETIES. Early Orange. Long Orange. Altringham. Long Lemon-coloured. Blood Rod. Long White. The Carrot is a native of Britain, and grows by the road- side in many parts. As a culinary vegetable, it is much used in soups and stews, and forms a dish with boiled beef, &c. The coarse sorts are cultivated as fodder for cows, sheep, oxen, and horses, and are considered profitable, as CAUROT. 59 they frequently yield upward of four hundred bushels to an acre, when cultivated on the field system. For the garden, the Early Orange should be cultivated for spring and summer use ; but the Long Orange is more suit- able for main crops, on account of its blight orange colour, as well as for its gi-eat size and length, Can-ots grow to great perfection in a rich loamy soil, and may be raised in drills drawn about one inch deep, and twelve inches asunder. A small bed may be planted at the latter end of March for an early crop, and from that time to the end of May for suc- cessive crops ; but the principal crop should not be sown too soon, as the early plantings are apt to produce seed-stalks, and, consequently, stringy and useless roots. The most suitable ground for late Canots, is that which has been well manured for previous crops, and requires no fresh manure. If the seed be sown in June, and the plants thinned out to the distance of five cir six inches from each other when young, and kept hoed, they will yield an abun- dance of fine roots for winter and spring use, by being taken up in autumn, and preserved either in sand in a cellar, or covered up in pits in a garden, as directed in the Calendar for November. Although CaiTot seed is naturally small and light, it seldom fails to vegetate in favourable seasons ; it, therefore, need not be sown too thick in ground not apt to produce weeds. If a root could be insured to grow unmolested in every instance where a seed may be deposited, two pounds would be more than sufficient for an acre of land ; but gardeners generally use four or five pounds to the acre, in order that the rows may be more easily traced in the event of a luxuriant growth of weeds. To avoid risking an unequal crop in small gar- dens, half an ounce of seed should be allotted for eveiy pole, perch, or rod, or twenty ounces for a rood of land. On light ground, the use of a roller would be beneficial in dry weather, excess of which is detrimental to the germination of Carrot, as well as of all other light seed. 60 CELERY. CELERY. Celeri. Apium graveolens. VARIETIES. White Solid. t New WWte Lion's Paw. Red-coloured Solid. j North's Red Giant. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted. Thls vegetable, so much esteemed as a salad, is known in its wild state by the name of Smallage ; and is found in gi-eat abundance by the sides of ditches, and near the seacoast of Britain. The effects of cultivation ai'c here strikingly exhi- bited, in producing from a rank, coarse weed, the mild and sweet stalks of the Celery. This circumstance should stimu- late the young gardener to aim at improvement in the culti- vation of plants in general. It is customary with some gardeners to raise their early plants in hot-beds ; but as plants thus raised are apt to pro- duce seed-stalks, it is much safer to cultivate them in cold- beds, prepared as directed for the raising of early Cabbage plants. The seed for a general crop may be sown the last week in March, or early in April, in rich, mellow ground, and in a situation where the plants can be protected from tlie parching heat of a summer sun (a border against a north aspect is the most suitable). Some sow the seed broad-cast, but the plants will be much stouter if raised in drills. The drills may be half an inch deep, and six inches apart, so that a small hoe can be worked between the rows ; and if pro- perly attended to, every ounce of seed so sown will produce ten thousand strong plants or more. The early sown plants should be pricked out in a nursery bed of cool rich earth, as soon as they are two or three inches high, there to remain about a month, after which they will be fit to transplant into the trenches. Choose for this pui-pose a piece of rich ground, in an open exposure ; mark out the trenches by line, ten or twelve inches wide, and allow the space of three feet between them, which CELERY. 61 will be sufficient for the early plantations. Dig eacn trench a moderate spade deep, laying the dug-out earth equally on each side, between the trenches ; put three inches deep of very rotten dung in the bottom of each trench, then pare the sides, and dig the dung and parings with an inch or two of the loose mould at the bottom, incorporating all well together, and put in the plants.* Previous to planting, tiim the plants, by cutting off the long straggling leaves, and also the ends of the roots. Let them be planted with a dibble, in single rows, along the mid- dle of each ti-ench, five or six incl>es between plant and plant ; as soon as they are planted, give them a plentiful watering, and let them be shaded until they strike root and begin to grow. The main crops may be planted in the same way, but m trenches four feet distant from each other, and an inch or two farther from plant to plant ; or in beds made in the fol- lowing manner, which, for the ease of preserving the plants in wdnter, will be found extremely convenient, besides a greater quantity can be raised on a given piece of gi-ound. Lay out the ground into beds four feet wide, vnth. alleys between, three feet ; dig the beds a spade deep, throwing the earth on the alleys : when done, lay four or five inches of good, well-rotted dung all over the bottom of the beds, dig and incorporate it with the loose earth, and cover the whole with an inch or two of earth from the alleys ; plant four rows • Some gardeners are accustomed to cultivate Celery on the level ground; others, after making their trenches in the usual way, go to the expense of carting peculiar soil ft'om a distance, with which they replenish their trenches until nearly full. Those who have pursued the latter plan, say that they are rewarded for their trouble by gathering roots of superior size and quality ; but it is doubtful whether it would prove profitable to prac- tice this plan on an extensive scale. It may, however, be judicious in those gardeners, whose subsoil, or under stratum, is inferior, or ill-adapted for the growth of Celery, to cultivate it in shallow drills, or furrows worked out with a plough, by which means they may secure good soil to plant in, and also to earth up with. In such cases the rows must be from four to five feet apart, and frequent ploughing between them would promote the growth of the plants. 6 62 CELERY. in each bed at equal distances, and from six to eight inches apart in the rows ; after which, give tliem a plentiful water ing, and shade them. The plants must be hoed occasionally, until grown of suf- ficient size for earthing, which is done with the assistance of boards, by laying them along the rows, to support the leaves while you are putting in the earth from the alleys, and re- moving them as you progress in the business. The earthing should never be done when the plants are wet, as this is apt to make the Celery rusty, but should be performed gradually in fine weather as the plants progress in growth, repeating the earthing every two weeks ; at which time care should be taken to gather up all the leaves neatly, and not to bury the hearts of the plants. When they are grown two feet high, and well blanched, they ai'e fit for the table. As Celery will grow three or four feet high in one season, it will be necessary to delay the planting of that which is in- tended for winter use until the latter end of July, but the ti'enches should always be got ready soon enough to avoid a serious drought, which often delays the planting till t(jo late in the season. The blanching of Celery for winter use may be delayed until October. By market gardeners who raise Celery on a large scale, the trenches may be worked out with a plough, and finished with a spade or hoe. The ground may also be jjloughed between each row of Celery previous to earthing it up ; this will save much labour. The Cehriac, or Tumip-rooted, may be planted either on level ground or in shallow drills ; the root of it swells like a Turnip, and may be preserved in sand through the winter. The French and Germans cut it in slices, and soak it a few hours in vinegar ; by such simple j^i'cparation, it becomes mellow as a pineapple, and aflords a delicious and very nour- ishing repast. CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. 03 CORN SALAD, OR FETTICUS. Mache ou doucette. Valeriana locusta. VARIETY. — Olitoria. This plant grows spontaneously in the corn-fields of Eng- land, hence it is called Corn Salad ; and from its being suf- ficiently hardy to stand the winter, and affording an early pasturage, it has acquired the appellation of Lamb's Lettuce. It is cultivated as a salad for winter and early spring use. The seed may be so^vn in rich, clean ground, the latter end of August or early in September. Some gai'deners sow the seed in beds four or five feet wide, with paths between each bed, just sufficient to admit of room for hand- weeding ; but it will vegetate more freely if sown in drills half an inch deep, provided it be carefully covered. The drills may be about six inches apart, or just sufficient to admit a small hoe to work between the rows ; for if the plants are not cleared of all weeds while young, they will be more plague than profit. Fetticus must be covered up with straw at the approach of severe weather, to preserve it in good condition for use in the early part of the ensuing spring, as that is the season which most amply remunerates the cultivator. The seed of Fetticus is small and light, but it vidll admit of being sown thick, say at the rate of from four to six pounds to an acre of land. 64 cuF.ss. CRESS. Cresson. LepiiUuin, sativum. VARIETIES. Curled, or Peppergrass. I Broad-leaved Garden. Cress is a small salad herb, and is generally used with Lettuce, White Mustard, Rape, Chervil, &c. It may be sown very thick in little drills, as should salad seed in gene- ral, and cut before it comes into rough leaf. A small quan- tity in the salad season, which is spring and autumn, may be sown every week in rich ground, free from weeds. CRESS, (Water.) Cresson de Fontaine. Sisymbrium nasturtium. The Water Cress is a creeping, amphibious perennial, and is growTi very extensively for the London Markets. Loudon says, in his Encyclopcedia of Gardening, that " The most suitable description of water is a clear stream, not more than an inch and a half deep, running over sand or gravel ; the least favourable, deep, still water, or a muddy bottom. It is highly advantageous to make the plantations in newly-i-isen spring water, as the plants do not only thiive better in it, but, ^n consequence of its being rarely frozen, they generally coa tinue in vegetation, and in a good state forgathering, through the whole winter season. The plants are disposed in rows parallel with the coui'se of the stream, about eighteen inches apart. When these plants begin to grow in water one inch and a half deep, they soon check the current so as to raise the water to the height of three inches above the plants, which is considered the most favourable circumstance in which they can be placed. It is absolutely necessary to have a constant current, as where there is any obstruction to the stream, the plants cease to thrive. After they have been cut about three times, they begin to stock, and then the oftener they are cut the better. I CUCUMBER. S.*) CUCUMBER. CoNCOMBRE. Cucumis saiivus, etc. VARIETIES. Early Frame. Early Green Cluster. Early Green Table. Long Prickly. Short Prickly. Long Green. Extra Long Green. Long White Turkey. White Spined. West India, or Gherkin The Cucumis saiivus, or common Cucmnber, is a native of the East Indies, and of nearly as great antiquity as the vine. It was inti'oduced into England in 1573, and is extensively cultivated in forcing frames, and in the open air. In March, they are sold in the London Markets for a guinea a dozen ; and in August and September for one penny per dozen. As Cucumbers are much used in Nevy-York, it should be an object with gardeners to have them in the market early ; directions for raising them out of the ordinary season, are therefore given in a future page, under the head Forcing Vegetables ; to which the reader is referred. Cucumbers may be raised in the open ground by jilanting seed the first week of May, in hills four feet apart ; or if the ground be light, basins formed an inch below the level of the surface would be beneficial.* Previous to planting, the ground should be prepared by incorporating a sliovelful of rotten dung with the earth in each hill, after which four or five seed may be planted half an inch deep. One ounce of good seed is suf- ficient for two hundred hills and upward. Cucumbers are liable to be attacked by a yellow fly, which sometimes devoui's young plants ; these and other insects may be killed by sowing tobacco dust, soot, powdered char- * The term hill is frequently made Ui3e of by gardeners and farmers, to designate a situation allotted for a given number of seed, whereas, such seed are more frequently deposited below the level of the surface than above it ; yet, as the plants progress in growth, hills are frequently formed around them, which makes the term applicable, or rather reconciles the apparent contradiction- 6* 66 EGG-PLANT. coal, and the like, round about the vines when they first come up, or by applying the liquid recommended in page 19 of the General Remarks. After this is done, the plants may be tliinned to two or three in a hill, and the ground carefully hoed, drawing a little earth round them at the same time. The vines should be kept free from weeds, and if the weather proves dry, a gentle watering now and then, given in the evening, will be of considerable S(;rvice. Picklers may be raised by planting the seed at any time in July. When the vines begin to bear, they should be looked over, and the fruit gathered as soon as il becomes fit, as the plant will cease to bear much if the fruit be permitted to get yellow. CHIVES, OR GIVES. CiVETTE. Allium schcenoprasum. This is a small species of Onion, and grows in large tufts ; it is propagated by offsets from the roots, and may be planted either in spring or autumn, in rows ten or twelve inches apart, and the bulbs three or four inches apart in the rows ; they will soon take root, and increase very fast, form- ing large bunches of bulbs. They make handsome edging for beds or borders. EGG-PLANT. Melongene au aubergine. Solanum melon gena. VARIETIES Purple, for cooking. I White, for ornament. The seed of the Pui-jile Egg-plant may he sown in a hot- bed about the first of March ; and the sashes must be kept down close until the plants come up, after which a little air EtJG-PLANT. G7 may be given in the heat of the day.* Toward the middle of May, if the weather be warm and settled, the plants should be set out from twenty-four to thirty inches apart, in a rich, warm piece of ground ; and if kept clean, and a little earth be drawn up to their stems when about a foot high, they will produce plenty of fruit. Plants of the white variety may be riased in the same man- ner, and transplanted into pots in May; or if some of the seed be sown in a warm situation the first week in May, these may come to perfection in the course of the summer. This variety, though generally cultivated for ornament, is good when cooked. As Egg plants will not grow in the open ground until set- tled warm weather, and are apt to jierish from being trans- planted too early, the gardener should be provided with small pots, in order that the plants may be transplanted therein early in May, and placed in a fi'ame, there to remain until the first week in June, at which time, if they are turned out and planted, with the balls of earth entire, they will soon take root and grow freely. Select the fruit when at matmity ; cut it into slices, and parboil it in a stewpan ; when softened, drain off the water ; it may then be fiied in batter made with wheaten flour and an egg, or in fresh butter with bread grated fine and sea- soned before it is put in the pan, with pepper, salt, thyme, and such other herbs as may best suit the palate. Some use Marjoram, Summer Savory, Parsley, Onion, &c. * E?g-plant seed will not vegetate freely without substantial heat ; but with proper management, upward of four thousand plants may be raised from an ounce of seed. If these plants get the least chilled in the earlier stages of growth, they seldom recover ; it is, therefore, important that the frame allotted for them be placed over a well-regulated hot-bed, and partitioned off, KO that the sash can be kept down over the plants in cool weather. Some gardeners raise Egg-plants in the same frame with Cabbage, and such other iialf-hardy plants as require air every mild day ; by such man- agement, one or the other must suller for want of suitable aliment, heat being the principal food of tender plants, and air that of the more hardy species 68 ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. ENDIVE, OR SUCCORY. Chicoree des jardixs. Cichorium endiva, etc VARIETIES. Green Curled. i Golden Yellow. White Curled. | Broad-leaved, or Scarolle. The Cichormm endiva is a native of China and Japan, and is much used in salads and stews, and as a garaish for the table. The proper kind of seed for early sowing is the Green Curled. A small quantity of this may be sown at different times in April and May, by those who would have it early. These crops will be very apt to run to seed ; for this reason, it will be best to delay the sowing of seed for general crops until June, or July. If a small (juantity of each esteemed variety be sown two or three times in these months, they will produce a plentiful supply for use in Autumn and the early part of Wintei'. One ounce of good Endive seed will produce about five thousand plants. Wlien the plants are three or four inches high, they should be transplanted into good ground, at the distance of a foot from each othei'. and immediately watered ; or if they are set out in cloudy or wet weather, it -will save this trouble. The plants will requrie to be hoed and attended to in the same manner as Lettuce, until gi'own to a moderate size, when they must be blanched. Select the large and full-hearted plants, and with bass or other strings, tie them a little above the middle, not too tight, pre\^ously gathering up the leaves regularly in the hand. This must be done when the leaves are very dry, otherwise the plants will rot. The Cichorium intylms grows spontaneuosly in many parts of Europe and America. In France it is much cultivated ; the tops of the plants are considered profitable for cattle, and the roots are taken up in Autumn, and dried. The aromatic and volatile qualities of coffee are, by the combination of this root, ren- dered more mellow and full upon the palate, and its fragrance greatly increased, producing an agreeable tonic, and most exhilarating beverap-e. HORSE-RADISH. 69 Sow the seed in April in drills half an inch deep, and about eighteen inches apart ; thin out the plants to six or eight inches in the row. The plant produces beautiful blue flowers, and is worthy of a place in the flower garden. The roots when diied, roasted as coffee, and ground, may be mixed in the proportion of two ounces of the powder to a pound of coffee. HORSE-RADISH. Raifort. Cochlearia armoracia. This plant is propagated by cuttings from the root, either cnt from the top about two inches long, or by offsets, or otherwise useless parts, from the sides of the main root, re- taining the crowns or top shoots in as many parts as possible. These should be- planted as early in the spring as practicable, in rows two feet apart, and six or eight inches from each other in the rows. Select for the bed a good depth of soil, and such as will retain moisture, manure it with well-rotted dung, plough or dig it deep, and with a drilling machine or other convenient implement, draw drills a foot ajiart ; then plant with a dibble, cuttings as above described, in eveiy alternate drill, from two to three inches deep. The intermediate drills may be planted vrith Beet or Carrot seed, or that of any other root, but Tur- nip Beets ai"e the most suitable to cultivate between the rows, as they will grow quick, and can be pulled out without dis- turbing the Horse-radish. The Beets must of course be thinned out while young, and kept cultivated by hoeing between the rows, which will also benefit the Horse-radish. After the Beets are pulled, hoe the gi'ound again, and keep it clear of weeds, by which method the bed may be cleared every year. Some cultivate Horse-radish in a permanent bed, in which case, if, in taking up the roots, some offsets be left in the ground, they will produce a successive supply for future yeetrs. 70 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. INDIAN CORN. Mais. Zea mayz. VARIETIES. Early Dutton. Gobbet's Early Normandy Early Tuscarora. Southern Horsetooth. Early Canadian. Early Golden Sioux. Sweet, or Sugar. Mottled and Curious Pearl. The different varieties of early Com intended for boiling when young, or others as curiosities, may be planted in the garden the last week in April, or early in May, in hills four feet apart, or in drills. If some of each esteemed variety be planted in separate beds at the same time, they will come in for the table one after the other in regular succession. After this, if any particular variety be preferred, it may be planted at different times in the month of , May and June. If the ground be poor, mix a shovelful of old manure with the earth in each hill before the seed are planted, and after the plants are up strong, scatter a tea-cup full of wood ashes around each hill. This, with attentive hoeing and hilling, will cause it to pi'oduce ears early. Deep digging or plough- ing between the hills is very beneficial when the corn is about eiorhteen inches hifrh. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. PoMME DE TERRE. Heliaulhus tiiherosom. This plant is a native of America. The tubers of the root, which are generally abundant, were, before Potatoes became improved by cultivation, in great esteem, and are yet considered a fine flavoured and nutritious food, when boiled and mashed with butter. They may be easily propa- gated by cutting the roots into sets, with two eyes in each, and planting them in the same manner as Potatoes, in March and April. To have them in perfection, they should be hoed LEEK. 71 frequently, and the ground kept loose around them. In dig- ging them for use, care should be taken to gather them out clean, as the least particle left will grow the year following, and encumber the giound, without producing a crop worth standinof. LEEK. PoiRREAU. Allium porrum. VARIETIES. Scotch, or Flag. i Large London This is a wholesome and useful herb, and is so hardy ag to endure the extremes of heat and cold without injury. The seed may be sown in March, or early in April, in a bed of rich earth, in drills about an inch deep, and a sufficient dis tance apart to admit of a small hoe being worked between the rows, allowing one ounce of seed for every three thou- sand plants that may be required. If the ground be kept loose and clean around the plants, they will be fit to transjDlant in June, or early in July, and should be set out in good ground, in rows twelve inches asunder, and the plants five or six inches apart in the rows. They ■will grow well in a warm border, which at this season is useless for many kinds of vegetables. After the plants have taken root, they should be frequently hoed, and kept free from weeds. Those who wish to have Leeks blanched, may plant them in trenches three or four inches deep, and as the plants in- crease in growth, the earth should be drawn by a hoe into the trenches. 72 LETTUCH LETTUCE Laitue. Lactuca sativa crispa. Large Green Head- Dutch, or Cabbage. Tennis Ball, or Rose. Madeira, or Passion. Large Green Curled. Loco Foco. VARIETIES. Early Silesia. Imperial, or Sugar Loaf. Pale Green, or Butter. Grand Admiral. Large Summer Silesia. Paris Loaf Coss. It would be easy to fumisli a more extensive catalogue of Lettuce, as the varieties are numerous ; but as this is one of th(»s« kinds of vegetables that can only be raised in peifec tion during mild and temperate weather, it is needless foi the gardener to plant any in tlie open ground, but such as have been tested, and found to stand a tolerable degree of warm weather, which generally prevails in May and June, and, consequently cuts short the salad season. Those who nave been accustomed to raise head Lettuce in any quantity, know the trouble of preparing the ground and planting, and the loss they would sustain if several thousand plants should run to seed just as they appeared to be perfecting for market. As this is often the case, even with the very best attention, I would caution gardeners to test such plants as they are not acquainted wdth, before they set out any quantity with a \'iew to their heading.* The six varieties inserted in the first column of our cata- • It may be necessary here to remind the gardener, that moisture is the most essential nutriment of Lettuce, and that the very best vai-ieties may run to seed without forming heads, in the event of extreme warm weather. Those who put off the sowing of seed until May and June, instead of sowing it in March and April, as directed, may procure head Lettuce from some of their .strongest plants, by transplanting thcin into rich ground aa soon as ihey are an inch or two in height, and the remainder, if left thin in the beds, may produce small heads, by stirring the earth around them with a small hoe, or weeding hook ; these are as good for family use as larger heads, and those persons who are fond of Lettuce may raise such through- out tlie summer ; but market gardeners seldom attempt it, unless they have a tract of moist, loamy soil, peculiarly adapted to the growth of head Lettuce, in any thing like a propitious season. LETTUCE. 73 logue have been known to stand our winters, and may be sown from the first to the middle of September, in rich ground, free from weeds ; they answer very well when sown with Spinach, and should be covered with sti'aw at the ap- proach of severe weatlier. These plants, if transplanted into warm borders, or in the open ground, as early in March as the weather will permit, will produce fine heads early in the month of May. The best of the tender kinds of Lettuce should be sown in moderate hot-beds early in March, and if transplanted into good ground by the middle of April, will produce their heads before the approach of warm weather. Such kinds as are knowTi to produce heads in hot weather, and also such as are intended to be cut as a small salad while young, maybe sown in warm borders in March and April ; but those designed for heading should be transplanted as soon as they are an inch or two in height, and kept in a growdng state by frequent hoeing, or they may run up to seed as the season advances. If it be an object with the gardener to have good strong Lettuce plants for transplanting, the seed should be sown very thin. One ounce of good seed is sufficient for a border of six feet in width by eighteen feet in length, and will pro- duce from ten to twelve thousand plants. All kinds of Lettuce intended for heading should be plant- ed in good ground, twelve inches distant from each other every way ; the plants should be carefully hoed every othei week during their growth ; the first hoeing should be done in about two weeks after they are transplanted. The Coss Lettuce requires to be blanched ; this is done by gathering up the leaves of the plants and tying bass round them, when grown to perfection. If Head Lettuce be required at other seasons than the spring, it may be obtained in autumn by sowing seed in Au- gust, or in the wnnter by means of garden frames and glazed sashes. \See article on Forcing Vegetables.] 74 MELON. MELON. Melon. Cucumis melo. Green-fleshed Citron. Murray's Pineapple. Green-lleshed Persian. Green-fleshed Nutmeg. VAKIETIES. Large Yellow Cantcleupe. Pomegranate, or Musk Scented. Skilhnan's Fine Netted. Snake, (curious.) The Melon is an exotic plant, growing wild in Asia. It is cultivated in all the warm countries of Europe, and also in Africa and America, where its salubrious and cooling fruit is generally esteemed. For the varieties of the Musk or Canteleupe Melons, pre- pare a piece of rich ground early in May ; manure it and give it a good digging ; then mark it out into squares of six feet every way ; at the angle of each square, dig a hole twelve inches deep and eighteen over, into which put about six inches deep of old lotten dung ; throw thereon about four inches of earth, and mix the dung and earth well with the spade ; after which draw more earth over the mixture, so as to form a circular hill about a foot broad at top. (For a de- finition of the term " hill," see article Cucumber.) When your hills are all prepared, plant in each, toward the centre, six or eight grains of seed, distant two inches from each other, and cover them about half an inch deep. One ounce of good Melon seed will plant about one hundred and twenty hiUs. When the plants are in a state of forwardness, producing their rough leaves, they must be thinned to two or three in each hill ; draw earth fi-om time to time round the hills, and about the roots of the plants. As soon as the })]ants have spread into branches, stop them by pinching off the top of the first runner bud ; tliis \v\]\ strengthen the ])lants, and pro- mote their ])erfecting the fruit early ; after which keep the ground perfectly free from weeds by frequent hoeing. There ai'e many varieties of the Melon, highly esteemed WATER MELON. 75 in Europe, which do not succeed in this country ; the gar- dener should, therefore, plant only such as have been tested and found to produce good fruit here, or our superior old sorts may become degenerate. After a judicious selection is made, if caution be not used to plant the different sorts remote from each other, and from Cucumbers, Squashes, and Gourds, degeneracy will infallibly be the consequence. To prevent the ravages of flies, &c., see General Remarks, pages 19 and 20. WATER MELON. Melon d'eau. Cucurhila citruUus. VARIETIES. New Jersey. I Goodwin's Imperial. Carolina. I Citron, for preserves. The Water Melon, though by some considered a species of the former, is a distinct genus of exotic plants. They afford a veiy refreshing article of luxury in our warm sum- mers. Dr. Pallas, in the account of his journey to the southern provinces of Russia, in 1793 and '94, speaking of a colony of Moravians in Sarepta, or Sapa, on the River Volga, says, " The ingenious inhabitants of this town brew a kind of beer from their very abundant and cheap Water Melons, vdth the addition of Hops ; they also prepare a conserve or marmalade from this fruit, which is a good substitute for syrup or treacle." In order to have Water Melons in perfection, you must fix upon a piece of very rich light soil ; prepare, plant and manage it in every respect as is directed for Musk Melon, only, let the hills be seven or eight feet distant every way. One ounce of seed will plant from forty to fifty hills. 7G NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION. MUSTARD. MouTARDE, Sinapis. VARIETIES. White. 1 Black. The <^Ibn, or White Mustard, grows spontaneously in the fields of England ; it is also cultivated as a small salad, as well as for seed. The seed yields from every hundred pounds, from thirty-three to thirty-six jiounds of sweet mild oil. White Mustard Seed is much used as a medicine, and per- sons subject to disordered stomachs often derive great benefit by taking a spoonful of the dry seed, two or three tim.es a day Some use it iu pickles, to which it imparts an agi-eeable fla- vour, and renders Cucumbers in particular more salutary. The JS^io-ra or Common Mustard, is also a native of England. The condiment called Mustard, and in daily use at our table is prepared from the seed of this species. The seed, of each variety, may be sown in clean rich ground in April and May; and for a fall salad in September in shallow drills. NASTURTIUM, OR STURTION. Capucine. Tropccolum. This is an annual plant, a native of Peru, and is highly deserving of cultivation for the sake of its brilliant orange and crimson coloured flower, as well as for the berries, which, if gathered while green and pickled in vinegar, make a good substiute for capers, and are used in melted butter, with boiled mutton, &c. The seed should be sown in April, or early in May, in drills about an inch deep, near fences or pales ; or trelHses should be constructed, on which they can climb and have support, for they will always be more productive in this way than when suffered to trail on the ground. oxioN. 77 OKRA. GoMBO. Hibiscus escnlentiis. The green capsules of this plant are used in soups, stews, &:c., to which they impart a nch flavour, and are considered nutritious. Its ripe seed, if burned and ground like coffee, can scarcely be distinguished therefrom. The seed should be planted in good rich ground, the first or second week in May, if settled warm weather, but not other\\nse, as it is a very tender vegetable. Draw drills about an inch deep, and three or four feet asunder, into which drop the seed at the distance of six or eight inches fi'om each other, or rather drop two or three in each place, lest the one should not grow and cover them nearly an inch deep. As the plants advance in growth, thin them out, earth them up two or three times, and they \\'ill produce abundantly. OXIOX. OiGXON. Allium cepa, etc. etc. VARIETIES. New England White. 1 Yellow Dutch. Large Red. Strasburgh, or Flanders. Yellow, or Silver Skinned. I Madeira. Of the several varieties of Onions, the Yellow or Silver Skinned, and Large Red, are the best for a genei'al crop. The bulbs are handsome, of firm gi'outh, and keep well through the winter. The New England White are handsome for the table, and very suitable for pickling, as well as to pull while young, and generally prove a very profitable crop. Previous to sowdng Onion seed for a general crop, the ground should be well prepared by digging in some of the oldest and strongest manure that can be got. The earlier this be done in the spiing, the better, and the planting should 7' 78 ONION. not be delayed longer tlian the middle of April. The seed may be sown moderately thick, in drills one inch deep and twelve inches apart.* 1 hose who cultivate Onions for the sake of their bulbs, may use at the rate of four or five pounds of seed per acre. As market gardeners, in the vicinity of large cities, find it most profitable to pull a great proportion of their Onions while young, they generally require at the rate of from eight to ten pounds of seed to an acre of land. When the plants are up strong, they should be hoed. Those beds that are to stand for ripening, should be thinned out while young, to the distance of two or three inches from each other. If a few should be required for use after this, those can be taken which incline more to tops than roots ; and if the beds be frequently looked over, and the small and stalky plants taken away where they stand thickest, the remaining bulbs will grow to a larger size. The plants should be hoed at least three times in the early part of their growth; but if the season prove damp, and weeds vegetate luxuriantly, they must be removed by the hand, because after the Onions have begun to bulb, it would injure them to stir them with a hoe. Whten the greenness is gone out of the tops of Onions, it is time to take them up ; for from this time the fibrous roots decay. After they are pulled, they should be laid out to dry, and when dry, removed to a place of shelter. The small Onions may be planted in the following spring. Even an Onion which is partly rotten will produce good bulbs, if the seed stems be taken off" as soon as they appear. * Onion seed may be sown at any time from March to fSpptember, but those only can be depended upon for ripeninsr, which are sown in the first and second spring months. It is a sinj^ular fact, that Onions will not ripen later than Am^ust or the early part of September, however warm the weather may be; they can, however, he preserved in the place where they grow, by spreading some short dung over them in autumn, just sufficient to prevent their pury;ins out of the ground in winter. Onions thus pre- served, often prove more profitable to market gardeners in the spring, than rrops which ripen ; because ripe Onions are then scarce, and green ones Itfove a good substitute for Shallots, Welsh Onions, Leeks, &c. PARSLEY. 79 The Allium Jistulosum, or Welsh Onion, is cultivated for spring salad ; it forms no bulbs, but is very hardy. If the seed be sown early in September in rich ground, although the tops may die down in the winter, yet the roots will con- tinue sound, and put up new leaves early in the spring. The Jillium cepa, or common White and Red Onions, are most generally cultivated by market gardeners as a substitute for the JllUum fislidosum ; they sow the seed in the spring and auti.mm months, the product of which is pulled and sent to the market while young, and generally meets with a ready sale. The Allium proliferum, or Tree Onion, is propagated by planting the bulbs in spring or autumn, either the root bulbs, or those produced on the top of the stalks ; the latter, if planted in the spring, ^vill produce fine Onions. These may be planted in rows with a dibble, the same as Shallots. The Potato Onion, Allium luberosum, does not produce seed as other Onions, but it increases by the root. One sin- gle Onion, slightly covered, will produce six or seven in a clump, partly under ground. The bulbs are generally planted in the spring, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, but they \vill yield better when planted in autumn, as they will survive the winter if slightly covered with dung, litter, or leaves of trees, &c. PARSLEY. Persil. Apiiim petroselinum. VARIETIES. Dwarf Curled. I Single, or Common. Extra Curled. | Large Rooted Hamburg. Parsley is a hardy biennial plant, and grows wild in moist climates, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The leaves of the Common Parsley are used as a pot herb, and 80 PARSLEY. those of the Extra Curled kinds make a fine gainlsli. The Large Itooted are generally cooked iur the table in autumn and winter, like Parsnips. As Parsley seed, sown late in the season, is aj)t to lay in the ground some time before it vegetates, and often fails in dry weather, the general crop should be sown in a cool situation by the early part of April, in drills an inch deep, and one foot asunder, allowing at the rate of about six or seven pounds of seed to the acre, or two ounces for every three perches of land.* After the plants are up, let them be kept clean by frequent hoeing. The Large Rooted Parsley sliould be thinned out while young, and managed the same as Carrots and Parsnips. In order to have Parsley green through the winter, the old leaves should be picked oft' in September. If some of the roots be taken up early in November, and laid in a frame, or light cellar, the leaves will keep green a long time ; tne remainder may be covered up with straw in the place where it grows. If Parsley seed be sovvti in frames in spring or summer, it may be pieserved for winter use without the trouble of removing it. * It frequently happens that Parsley seed will remain in the ground three or four weeks, without showing any signs of vegetation, and in the event of extreme dry weather, is apt to decay for want of its most essen- tial aliment — moisture. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown about aH inch apart in each drill, are well adapted to promote the growth of Parsley; because Radish seed being quick in germinating, will open the pores of the earth ; and the plants, as they progress in growth, will create a shade, sutticient to protect the Parsley from the full rays of the sun. rAKSNIP. 81 PARSNIP. Panais. Paslinaca saliva. VARIETIES. Long Guernsey Cup. | Large Dutch, or Common. This is a hardy biennial plant, common in calcareous soils ; it has long been an inmate of the garden, and forms a vegetable dish in the winter, with salt meat, salted fish, &c. Parsnip seed may be planted from the middle of March till the middle of May, in drills one inch deep and fourteen inches apart ; and as this vegetable requires a long season to grow in, the sooner the seed is jilanted the better. Pars- nips grow best in a deep soil, which has been well manured the preceding fall. Sow the seed thick along the drills, at the rate of five or six pounds per acre, and rake them in evenly.* When the plants are two or three inches high, thin them to the distance of six or eight inches in the rows. They should be kept free from weeds, by regular hoeing through the summer, and in autumn they will be fit for use ; but they improve in flavour after having been frozen, and will endure the severity of a hard winter. See Calendar for November. Parsnips require from thirty to forty minutes boiling, ac- cording to their size and age. Some boil them in water seasoned with salt, until tender ; but they are better when boiled with salt pork, and afterward mashed and fried in butter. • The Parsnip, although when in full growth it will endure the extremes of heat and cold, requires peculiar management to promote and preserve germination in an early stage of culture. In order to give the seed a fair chance, it should be planted in ground susceptible of moisture, and not apt to encrust when dry. The seed should be dropped thick along the drills, and well covered, as single or solitary plants are apt to perish, from not having sufficient strength to open the pores of the earth, and in the event of drought such plants die off prematurely. If cultivated in light ground, it should be rolled or pressed immediately after depositing the seed therein, but this should not be done while the earth is wet. A few grains of Long Radish seed, sown in each drill as directed for Parsley, will also prove beneficial to Parsnips. 62 PEPPER. PEPPER. PoiVRE ou PiMENT. Capsicum. VARIETIES. Grossum, or Bell Pepper. | Long Red, or Rircl's Bill. Tomato-sliaped, or Squash. | Cherry, or West Indian. Sweet Spanish; used as a salad, has a very delicate taste. This family of plants are natives of the East anil West Indies ; some of their capsules, or pods, are yellow, and others red, when at maturity ; they are much used for pick- ling, and should be gathered for that purpose before they are fully ri])e. The seed of the different kinds of Cnpsicums may be sown in a hot-bed in March, or on a warm border, early in May. One ounce of seed will produce about three thousand plants. When the plants arrive at the height of from one to two inches, they should be transplanted into good rich ground, from eighteen inches to two feet distant from each other. Those who do not want Peppers early in the season, may sow seed in the open ground in May, in drills two feet asun- der, and half an inch deep. When the plants are grown an inch or two high, thin them to the distance of fifteen or eighteen inches in the rows. The ground should be after- ward hoed deep round the plants, and kept free from weeds by repeated hoeings. The Cnpsicum Grossum, or Bell Pepper, is perennial, and will keep in perpetual beaiing in warm climates. In Eng- land this species is considered superior to all others, on ac- count of its skin being thick, and also pulpy and tender ; the plants are therefore frequently preserved in liot-houses dur- ing the winter and spring, and kept in the open air in settled warm weather. PF..\, PEA. Pois Pistim sativum. 83 VARIETIES. Early Cedo Nulli, or Race Horse, 3 ft. Early Frame, 2 to 3 feet. Early Warwick, :^ feet. Early Washington, 3 feet. Early Charlton, 3 feet. Double Blossom Frame, 3 feet. Bishop's Early Dwarf. 2 feet. Dwarf Prolific, or Strawberry, 2 feet. Dwarf Spanish, or Fan, 1 to 2 feet. Early Nimble Dick, 3 feet. Dwarf Blue Imperial, 2 to 3 feet. Waterloo Blue, 4 feet. Albany Field Groom's Dwarf Blue Prolific, 4 ft. Dwarf Blue, Prussian, 2 to 3 feet. Dwarf Marrowfat, 3 to 4 feet Ladies' Finger Marrows, 4 feet. Matchless Marrowfat, 6 feet. Knight's Tall Marrow, 6 feet. Knight's Dwarf Marrow, 3 feet. Woodford's (Jreen Prolific, 6 feet. Large Grey Rouncival, 4 feet. Dwarf Sugar, (eatable pods,) 3 feet Tall Crooked Pod Sugar, 6 feet French Bouquet, or Sugar, 3 to 4 ft in varieties. The above list and description of the most esteemed kinds of Pea are taken from the catalogue of Mr. G. C. Thoiburn. If they are rightly described, they will grow to different heights, according to soil and season. This description, however, may serve as a guide for the gardener in planting. The Dwarf Pea require less distance between row and row, and shorter sticks than the tall kinds. Planting the early kinds of Pea should commence as soon in the spring as the ground can be brought into good condi- tion ; all the other sorts, as well as the early, will answer for successive crops ; to obtain which, a few of the most esteemed varieties should be planted at the same time every two weeks, from March until the end of May. Persons desirous of having Peas tliroughout the summer and autumn, may plant a few in June, July, and August. In dry weather the Peas should be soaked in soft water five or six hours befoi'e plant- ing, and if the ground be very dry, it should be watered in the drills. Gardeners practice different modes of planting Peas. Some plant them in ridges, others in drills, some in single rows, others in double ; some use sticks for the dwarf kinds, and others not; those who study neatr ess should, however, 84 PEA. have them all rodded, though the most dwarfish may do without. All the different sorts of Pea may be planted in double or single rows, from four to six feet apart, accordmg to the different heights they may be expected to grow. If two drills be made three inches deep, and about nine inches apart, and the seed dropped along each drill moderately thick, they will yield better than single rows, and will save sticks. When the plants are two or three inches high, let them be hoed, drawing, at the same time, a little earth up to iheir stems ; when they get to double that height, let them be hoed again ; at the same time, place a row of sticks in the middle of your double rows, and a few shorter and smaller ones on the outside of each row, to assist the Peas in climb- ing to their main support. You must be governed as to the length of your sticks by the description of your Peas. There is great advantage in having sticks of a suitable height to the various kinds of Peas ; the sticks should not only be suf- ficiently tall, but also branchy, that the plants may readily take hold ; and they should be prepared fan fashion, so that the side branches may extend only along the rows. As the plants progress in growth, let them be repeatedly hoed and earthed up ; this will promote a plentiful bearing. One quart of Peas will plant from one hundred and fifty to two hundred feet of row, allowing the largest kinds to average one inch apart, and the smallest, two peas to the inch. If cultivated on the field system, one bushel will plant an acre of land, and produce about a hundred bushels of green Peas. To have green Peas in perfection, they should be gathered while young, and cooked immediately after they are shelled, or they will soon lose their colour and sweetness. Let the water be slightly seasoned with salt, and boiled ; then put in the Peas with a small bunch of Spear Mint, and ease the cover so as to let off the steam ; they require about fifteen minutes boiling, or five minutes more or less, according to POTATO. 85 the age and care bestowed. Taste and try in time, so as to have them done to a nicety. The Sugar Peas have no inner tough film, or skin, to the pods, like the common sorts ; they should therefore be boiled without shelling, and served up the same as Kidney Beans. POTATO. PoMME DE TERRE. Solanum Tuberosum. The Potato is known to be a native of the southern parts of America, but has been greatly improved by cultivation. The varieties being very numerous, it is unnecessary for me to point out any particular kinds ; some of the earliest should, however, be planted first in the spring, to produce young Potatoes in due season ; but they are not so suitable for a full crop as the late varieties. Potatoes being of such extensive utility, various expedients have been contrived with a view to find out the best method of preparing the seed. In many parts of England, (where Potatoes equal to any in the world are raised,) the farmers seldom plant them whole ; they take the Potatoes as they come to hand, and in cutting them, take care to have two good eyes in each set ; the small Potatoes are deprived of the sprout or nose end, as it is generally considered that a redundancy of eyes exhausts the set, and produces weak plants, which are not calculated to yield a full crop. I have frequently known from five to six hundred bushels raised from an acre with small Potatoes alone cut in this way. Some prefer planting the sets immediately after they are cut ; the better way is to get them cut a week before the time of planting, and to lay them out on a barn, or garret floor, to dry. It will require from twelve to sixteen bushels of Potatoes to plant an acre of ground, according to the size and nature 8 86 POTATO. of the seed roots, the manner of preparing-, and mode of planting the same. Potatoes may be planted from the first week in April until July, either in hills or diills ; the best way for a garden is to plant them in drills four or five inches deep, and about thirty inches asunder ; the sets may be dropped six or eight inches apart; and if a small quantity of combmaker's horn shavings or sea weed be used as a manure for the early kinds, it will expedite their growth ; the ground should be hoed as soon as the plants come up, and as they progress in growth it will be proper to mould or earth them up twice. POTATO, (Sweet.) PoMME DE TERRE DOUCE. Convolvulus halatas. Sweet Potatoes are grown to great perfection in the Southern States, and may be raised in the vicinity of New- York, by means of a moderate hot-bed, in which they should be planted whole, early in A])ril, three or four inches deep, and about the same distance apart. In about a month they will throw up sprouts. When these are three inches above ground, part them off from the Potato, which, if suffered to remain, will produce more sprouts for a successive planting ; transplant them into lich light soil, in rows four feet apart, and the plants about a foot apart in the rows, or in hills four feet apart. Keep them clear of weeds until the vines begin to cover the ground, after which they will grow freely. In sandy ground, it is well to put a shovelful of rotten manure to each plant. A moderate hot-bed, five feet square, put down early in the month of April, with half a peck of good sound Sweet Potatoesplaced therein, wUl produce a succession of sprouts in May and June, which if planted and managed as directed, will yield about fifteen bushels of good roots. PUMPKIN. 87 PUMPKIN. CiTROuiLLE ou PoTiRON. Cucwbtla pepo. VARIETIES. Finest Cheese, or Family. | Connecticut Field. Mammoth, or Spanish. j White Bell. This plant is highly deserving of cultivation, particularly in new settlements ; the large sorts are profitable for cattle, as some of the mammoth tribe have been known to weigh upward of two hundred pounds each ; the other kinds are also very productive, and may be raised on any waste land, provided it will admit of digging small spots, of the dimen- sions of one or two feet, every ten or. twelve feet, for the hills, and the residue of the ground be unencumbered for the plants to run on. They are generally raised, on culti- vated farms, between hills of Indian Com, and may be planted in the garden or open fi:eld, in May and June, in hills eight or ten feet apart, with three or four seed in each hill. One quart of Field Pumpkin seed will plant from five to six hundred hills. An ounce of the finer kinds will plant from fifty to eighty hills. Pumpkins are not so tenacious of a particular soil as either Melons or Cucumbers, but in other respects are cultivated in the same manner, only that in raising them on a large scale the ground may be prepared \vith a plough, and afterward, as the weeds advance, the plough and harrow may be used between the plants until they begin to run, which will save much labour. The finest quality of Pumpkins are known to make good pies, and may also, after being boiled, be worked up with wheaten flour into bread, for which purpose they are fully equal to Indian meal. The knowledge of this fact may prove advantageous to farmers living at a distance from cities, as they may find a market for their grain or meal readier than for their Pumpkins. 88 RADISH. RADISH. Radis ov Rave. Raphamis sativus. VARIETIES. Long Scarlet. Long Purple. Scarlet Pear-shape. Scarlet Turnip. White Turnip-rooted. Long White Naples. Purple Turnip. Yellow Turnip. White Spanish. Black Spanish. The different varieties of" Radish are extensively cultivated near large cities, chiefly for their roots, which are considered a luxury after a hard winter, and prove acceptable as warm weather approaches, provided they can be obtained in per- fection. The plant is also cultivated for the sake of the seed leaves, which are used as a small salad ; and even the seed pods, if pickled while young and green, are considered by some a good substitute for Capers. Those who may be desirous of having good Radishes early in the spring, should have a warm border prepared in the very best manner, so as to be ready to sow some of the Short Top Scarlet by the middle of March. If the ground should not be in good condition to receive the seed at this time, let it be delayed a few days ; and by the first of April, have another bed prepared in the open ground, by digging in some good strong manure. The seed may be sown broad- cast, and raked in evenly, or in drills drawn about one inch deep, and a foot apart.* If you wish to have Radishes in regular succession, sow seed of the most esteemed varieties every two weeks, until the middle of May : if any be sown after this, it should be the kinds described in the second column of our Catalogue. • In the seasons for planting Carrot, Parsnip, Parsley, Leek. Celery, and such other seed as are tardy in germinating, a lew grains of Radish seed dropped in each drill will produce good roots, and this crop will prove beneficial to those above enumerated, because the rows can be traced by Uie Kadislies, which being of quick growth, may bo pulled by the time the other plants are in full leaf. ROCAMBOLE. 89 These will endure the heat better than the others, and may be sown in drills, in small quantities, throughout the summer, until the latter end of August, when all the varieties may be sown in regular succession till the first of October. Market gardeners may prepare the ground with a plough, and cover eucli seed as may be sown bi'oad-cast with a haiTow. For early spring crops, the seed may be sown broad-cast, at the rate of from twelve to fourteen pounds to the acre, and about half that quantity will be sufficient, in drills drawn a foot apart. Of the large late kinds, five pounds to the acre will be enough, if sown regularly in drills, as directed. It may be necessary here to remind the gardener of the necessity of sowing tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &:c., over his seed beds, in hot, dry weather, or he will find it difficult to raise Radishes in iiupropitious seasons. [ur inches, you may begin cut- ting ; should you wait till all the shoots are of considerable length, your crop will come in too much at once, for in this plant there is not that successsive gi'owth which there is in Asparagus ; you may continue cutting until you see the heads of flowers begin to form ; and if at this time you uncover it 96 SEA-RALE. entirely, and let it proceed to that state in which Broccoli is usually cut, and use it as such, you will find it an excellent substitute ; and this greatly enhances the value of the plant; as Broccoli does not stand our winter frosts, and can only be had when carefully protected, as recommended when treat- ing of that vegetable ; but Sea-Kale is sufficiently hardy to bear our winter frosts, without much injury. You are not to weaken the roots too much by over-cutting, for in that case it would injure their next year's bearing : some of the shoots should be allowed to grow, to carry on a proper vegetation, and strengthen and enlarge the roots. Great care should be taken in cutting, not to injure the crovvms of the roots by cut- ting the shoots too close to them. Sea-Kale should be dressed soon after it is cut, els the goodness of the article greatly de- pends on its not being long exposed to the air. If you choose to force Sea-Kale, dig a trench all round a small bed, about three feet wide, and thirty inches deep ; fill it with hot dung, and as it sinks, raise it. This wdll make the plants grow ; and if hand lights are set over them, it will accelerate their growth. To have this rare vegetable in perfection, it should be cooked as soon as gathered. Let it be first soaked in water, seasoned with salt, for half an hour ; then wash it in fresh water, and put it into the cooking utensil ; keep it boiling briskly, skim clean, and let off steam. When the stalks are tender, which may be expected in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, according to size and age, take it up, dish it, and serve it up with melted butter, gravy, and such condiments as are most agreeable to the palate. SHALLOT. 97 SKIRRET. Chervis, ou Gyrole, Sinm sisarum. This plant is first cultivated by seed, and afterward by off- sets taken fi"om the old roots, and planted very early in the spring, before they begin to shoot ; but it is best to raise a small bed from seed every year, as the roots grow longer than those raised from slips, and are less liable to be sticky. The seed may be sown in drills the latter part of March, or early in April, and managed the same as Salsify, Parsnip, &c. In autumn, when the leaves begin to decay, the roots are fit to use, and continue so till they begin to shoot in the spring. Skirrets should be planted in a light, moist soil, for in dry land the roots are generally small, unless the season proves wet. The root of the Skirret is composed of several fleshy tubers as large as a man's finger, and joined together at the top. They are eaten boiled, and stewed with butter, pepper, and salt, or rolled in flour and fried, or else cold, with oil and vinegar, being first boiled. They have much of the taste and flavour of a Parsnip, and ai"e by some considered a great deal more palatable. SHALLOT. EcHALOTE. Allium ascalonicum. The true Shallot is a native of Palestine, and is considered to possess the most agreeable flavour of any of the Mlimn genus ; it is consequently highly deserving of cultivation. It is propagated by planting bulbs, or offsets, in the fall of the year, which may be set out with a dibble, in rows twelve inches apart, and from four to six inches distant in the rows ; or they may be placed in drills, two or three inches deep, and covered up with a trowel or hoe. The gardeners about New- York plant large quantities of the bulbs toward the end of August, and early in Septem- 9 08 SPINACH, OR SPINAGE, her; by this means they are enal)]ed to supply the market in April and May with a mild .1 Ilium, which while green meets a ready sale. Those intended for seed may remain in the ground until June or July ; after the tops have decayed, the bulbs must be taken uj), and the offsets divided : these should be kept in a dry place to plant the ensuing autumn. It will require at least four bushels of bulbs, if measured when first taken from the ground, to plant a quarter of an acre ; because after they are trimmed and depiived of their seed stalks, the bulk will be reduced one half. SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. Epinard. Spinacia. VARIETIES. Large Round-leaved. l Holland, or Lamb's Quarter Broad-leaved Savoy. | New Zealand. The Spinacia oleracea, or common Spinach, is very hardy, and consequently a very important vegetable for cold cli- mates. It merits attention from its being extremely whole- some and palatable, and from its keeping green even after having been cooked. It makes a delicious dish when served up with the gravy of roast meat, melted butter, &c. As Spinach is the only vegetable that can be raised to ad- vantage the latter end of the year, the gardener should, to- wards the end of August, prepare such ground as may have been occupied by summer crops, and by having it well ma- nured for this crop, it will be in good condition for Beets, CaiTots, Parsnips, Turnips, &c., the spring follo^\'ing. If the ground be got ready, so as to have several beds BO^vn in succession, from the first to the end of Se])tember, the most forward of these, if covered up with straw at the approach of cold weather, will furnish greens for the table when other vegetables are scarce, and the later crops will SPINACH, OR SPINAGE. 99 recover the effects of a haid wanter, and produce a whole- some vegetable early in the spring. If Spinach seed be sown in rich ground in March and April, it will grow freely, but it must be cut before the ap- proach of hot weather, or it will run to seed. To raise it in perfection at this season, it should be sown in drills about a foot apart, and be frequently hoed ; this will keep it in a growing state, and, consequently, prevent its running up to seed as quick as it otherwise would. It is altogether useless to sow Spinach seed in poor ground; let the ground be well manured with good strong dung, and it will well reward you for your trouble by its abundant produce. If Spinach be cultivated in drills a fool apart, it will re- quire from seven to eight pounds of seed to plant an acre of ground. Some gardeners use more than double that quantity in sowing broad-cast. Be careful to pick Spinach exceedingly clean, and wash it in five or six waters previous to cooking it. Some cook Spinach in a steamer over boiling water, others boil it in water ; but the best way is to put it into a saucepan that will just hold it, without water, then strew a little salt upon it, and cover it close. Put your saucepan on a clear quick fire; and when you find the Spinach shrunk and fallen to the bot- tom, and the juice which comes from it boil up, it is done. In order that it may be Tendered capable of absorbing a moderate quantity of gravy, melted butter, &c., which are indispensable with green vegetables, let it be well drained in a sieve, or colander, before it is dished. The New Zealand Spinach, or Telragona expansa, is not much cultivated in this country ; its nature seems to be op- posite to the common Spinach, as it will endure the heat better than the cold. It may be obtained in the summer, by planting the seed in April and May. Being of luxuriant growth, it should be planted in hills three feet apart, and about two seed in a hill. The leaves will be fit for use dur- ing the summer, and until late in the autumn. 100 SQUASH. SQUASH. Gourde Giraumox ou Potiron. Cucurbila metopepa, VARIETIES. Early Bush Scollop. Green Striped Bush. Early Crookneck. Large Cushaw. Vegetable Marrow. Winter Crookneck. Lima Cocoanul. Acorn, or California. The several varieties of Squash are very useful in this and other warm climates, as they can be grown in perfection in the summer, and therefoie prove a good substitute for Tur- nips, which cannot be raised in perfection in hot weather. They should be planted in May and June, in hills, prepared in the same manner as for Cucumbers and Melons, and their subsequent management is the same in every respect. The bush kinds should be planted three or four feet apart, and the running kinds from six to nine, according to their nature, as some will run more than othei's. It is always best to plant five or six seed in a hill, to guard against accidents ; as when the plants are past danger, they can be thinned to two or three in a hill. One ounce of Squash seed will plant from fifty to a hundred hills, according to the sorts and size of the seed. The fruit of the Early Summer Squash is generally gath ered for use before the skin gets hard, and while it is so t(!n der as to give way to a moderate pressure of the thumb nail. The Winter Squashes should be suffered to ripen, and collect- ed together in October, in the manner recommended in the Calendar for that month. All kinds of Squashes should, after having been boiled tender, be pressed as close as possible between two wooden trenchers, or by means of a slice or skimmer, made of the same material, until dry, and then prepared for the table in the same manner as Turnips. TOMATO. 101 TOMATO. ToMATE, ou PoMME d'amour. Solmium lycopersictim. VARIETIES. Lar^e lied. | Pear-shaped. Large Yellow. | Cherry-shaped. The Tomato, or Love Apple, is much cultivated for its fruit, which is used in soups and sauces, to which it imparts an agreeable acid flavour ; it is also stewed and dressed in various ways, and is considered very wholesome. The seed should be sown early in March, in a slight hot- bed, and the plants set out in the open ground, if settled warm weather, in the early part of May. In private gar- dens it will be necessary to plant them near a fence, or to provide trellises for them to be trained to, in the manner recommended for Nasturtiums ; they will, however, do very well, if planted four feet distant fi-om each other every way. Tomatoes may be brought to perfection late in the sum mer, by sowing the seed in the open ground the first week in May ; these plants will be fit to transplant early in June, and the fruit may ripen in time for preserves, or for catsup. One ounce of good Tomato seed will produce upward of four thousand plants ; and a single plant has been known to yield upward of a bushel of fruit. Tomatoes may be preserved in a stone or glazed earthen pot, for use in the winter, by covering them with water in which a sufficient quantity of salt has been dissolved to make it strong enough to bear an egg. Select perfectly ripe ber- ries, and cover the pot with a plate in such a mannei- that it presses upon the fruit without bruising it. Previous to cook- ing these Tomatoes, they should be soaked in fresh water for several hours. Besides the various modes of preparing this delicious ve- getable for the table, it may be preserved in sugar, and used either as a dessert, or on the tea-table, as a substitute for Peaches or other sweetmeats. It also makes exqusite pies and tcirts, and excellent catsup. 102 TURNIP. A celebrated writer observes, that " the common Tomato made into a gravy, by stewing over the fire, and used as a sauce for meat, has been known to quicken the action of the Uver and of the bowels, better than any medicine he ever made use of." He states farther, that " when afflicted with inaction of the bowels, iieadache, a bad taste of the mouth, straitness of the chest, and a dull and painful heaviness of the legion of the liver, the ^\ho]e of these symptoms are removed by Tomato sauce, and the mind, in the course of some few hours, is put in perfect tune." To make them into catsup, use one pint of salt to one peck of Tomatoes ; bruise them, and let them stand two days ; then strain them dry, and boil the juice until the scum ceases to rise, with two ounces of black pepper, the same quantity of pimento or allspice, one ounce of ginger, one of cloves, and half ati ounce of mace. TURNIP. Navf.t. Brassica rapa. Early Garden Stone. Early White Dutch. Early Snow Ball. Early lied Top. Strap Leaved Red Top. Early Green Top Yellow Aberdeen. Long White. VARIETIES. Large English Norfolk. Long Tankard, or Hanover. White Flat, or Globe. Yellow Maltese. Yellow Stone. Dale's Yellow Hybrid. Long Yellow. Russia, Swedish, or Ruta Baga. Tins is a wholesome and useful plant, both for man and beast, and highly deserving of cultivation. It being the last esculent vegetable in our catalogue, that is raised from seed sold at the vaiious seed stores, I shall endeavour to stimulate those of our yeomanry who have hitherto neglected the cul- ture of this field as well as garden production, to exertion and diligence, by inserting a few extracts from a paper that now lies before me. TURNIP. 103 " Culture of Turnips. — Until the beginning of the eigh- teenth century, this valuable root was cultivated only in gar- dens, or other small spots, for culinary purposes ; but Lord Townsend, who attended King George the First in one of his excursions to Germany, in the quality of Secretary of State, observing the Turnip cultivated in open and extensive fields, as fodder for cattle, and spreading fertility over lands naturally barren, on his return to England brought over some of the seed, and strongly I'ecoramended the practice which he had witnessed, to the adoption of his own tenants, who occupied a soil similar to that of Hanover. The experiment succeeded ; the cultivation of Field Turnips gradually spread over the whole county of Norfolk, and has made its way into every other district of England. Some of the finest grain crops in the world are now growing upon land, which be- fore the introduction of the Turnip husbandry, produced a very scanty supply of grass for a few lean and half-starved rabbits." Mr. Colquhoun, in his ' Statistical Researches,'' estimated the value of the Turnip crop annually growing in the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, at fourteen million pounds sterling, (equal to upward of sixty millions of dol- lars.) But when we farther recollect, that it enables the agriculturist to reclaim and cultivate land, which, without its aid, would remain in a hopeless state of natural barrenness ; that it leaves the land clean and in fine condition, and also insures a good crop of Barley, and a kind plant of Clover ; and that this Clover is found a most excellent pieparative for Wheat, it wall appear that the subsequent advantages derived from a crop of Turnips must infinitely exceed its estimated value as fodder for cattle. The preceding remarks show the kind of land that may be made capable of producing not only Turnips, but other things of equal value. It must, however, be granted, that some soils naturally suit particular kinds of vegetables better than otheis, and that, in general, exotic plants will succeed 104 TURNIP. best in such soils as are nearest like tlieir oAvn native soil. As we have not always a choice, I would inform the Young Gardener, if he has a very light soil, which is not suitable for vegetables in general, he may sometimes get two crops of Turnips fiom it in one year, by sowing seed for the first crop in March, and that for his second about the middle of August. For general crops, it will be better to have ground manured with short rotten dung, or compost containing a considerable proportion of coal, wood, peat, or soapers' ashes. Ground that has been well manured for preceding crops, and also ground fresh broken up, will do well for Tumi})s. It is important that particular attention be paid to the time of sowing the seed ; for if the first crop be not sown soon enough to be gathered early in July, they are seldom fit for the tatsle, being hot, stringy, and wormy ; and if the crop in- tended for autumn and winter use is sown befoi-e August, unless it be a very favourable season, if they even escape the attacks of insects and reptiles, they often get so defective, that they seldom keep through the winter.* To have Turnips in perfection, tliey should be hoed in about a month after they are sown, or by the time the plants have spread to a circle of about foiu- inches, and again about a month from the first hoeiiig, leaving tliem from six to nine inches apart. They will yield the cultivator more profit when treated in this way, than when left to nature, as is too frequently done. * Previous to sowing Turnip seed, the gardener should procure a suital)le quantity of lime, soot, or tobacco dust, so as to be prepared for the attacks of insects. It should be recollected that Turnip seed will sometimes sprout within forty-eight hours after it is sown, and that very freiiuently wliole crops are devoured before a plant is seen above ground. A peck of either of these inirredierits, mixed with about an equal quantity of ashes, or even dry road dust, scattered over the ground, morning and evening, for the first week after sowing the seed, would secure an acre of ground, provided tiie composition be used in such a way that the wind carry it over the whole plot ; and as the wind often changes, this end may be etTccted l)y crossing the land in adilleient direction each time, according as the wind may serve. If gardeners wlio raise Radishes, Cabbage, and such other vegetables as are sulijcct to the attacks of insects, were to pursue this course, they would save themselves from considerable loss. TURNIP. 105 It is generally admitted that one pound of Turnip seed is amply sufficient for an acre of ground, yet some will use considerably more, because of the difficulty of distributing so small a quantity of seed regularly broad-cast. This difficulty is, however, obviated by sowing the seed in drills ; and al- though it may seem a tedious process to those who have no other means of doing it than by hand, the facilities thus af- forded of hoeing between the rows, more than compensate for the exti-a labour. I once induced a friend of mine to sow four ounces of Turnip seed, in August, in drills a foot apart, by which means he made it extend over more than half an acre of land ; and by hoeing the plants twice, he had the giatifica- tion of pulling four hundred bushels of handsome Turnips, which is more than is generally taken from an acre of land cultivated in the ordinary way. If seed of the Russia or Swedish Turnip be sown in drills, any time in the month of July, or even early in August, they will produce fine roots toward the end of October, pro- vided the land be good, and well worked. When the plants are up strong, they must be hoed and thinned to the distance of twelve or fifteen inches from each other ; another hoeing will be necessary in five or six weeks afterward. This will make them grow freely. If cultivated in the field, frequent ploughing between the rows will be beneficial. The Turnip is a favourite vegetable with some, and in England, a leg of mutton and caper sauce is considered by epicures as but half a dish without mashed Turnips. To have them in perfection, they should, after having been de- prived of their rind, be equalized by cutting the largest trans- versely in the centre, and then, after being boiled tender, let them be taken up, and pressed as dry as possible; at the same time, let a lump of butter and a due proportion of Cayenne pepper and salt be added, and be beaten up with the Turnips until properly mixed. Use the natural gravy from the meat unadulterated, and such condiment as may be most esteemed. 106 AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. AROMATIC, POT, AND SWEET HERBS. (jtRAInes d'Herbes Aromatiques, odoriferantes et a l'usage de la cuisine. Angelica, Garden, Anise, Basil, Sweet, Borage, Burnet, Garden, Caraway, Chervil, or Cicely the Sweet, Clary, Coriander, Dill, • Fennel, Common, • Fennel, Sweet, Marigold, Pot, • Marjoram, Sweet, • Mint, Spear, • Mint, Pepper, • Mint, Pennyroyal, • Sage, Coriiiiion, • Sage, Red, Savory, Summer, • Savory, Winter, • Tarragon, • Tiiyme, Common, • Thyme, Lemon, Angelica atropurpiirea. Piniphiella anisum. Ocymuin basilicum. Borago officinalis Pufurium sanguisorba. Caruni curni. Sca7i(lix odorata cerefiilium. Salvia nclura. Coriandrum sativum, Anethum graveokns. Anefhum foeniculum. Anetliuin duke. Calendula (ffieinalis. Origanum marjurana. Mentha virides. Mentlia piperita. Mentha pulegium. Salvia nfficinulLs. Salvia clan dent inoides. Satureja hortensis. Suturiju. muntana. Artemisia dracunculua. Thymus vulgaris. Thymus serpyllum. Aromatic Herbs are such as impart a strong spicy odour and savoury taste ; many of them are used as small pot herbs, and for sauces, stuffings, and other uses in cooking. As only a small quantity of these are necessary in private gardens, a by-corner may be allotted for them, and such medicinal herbs as may be wanted in a family. It may be necessary to explain, as we go along, that there are three principal descriptive names given to plants, namely, Annuals, Biennials, and Perennials. The Annuals being but of one season's duration, ai'e raised every year from seed. The Biennials are raised from seed one year, continue till the second, then perfect their seed, and soon after die; some of these should also be raised every year from seed. The Perennials may be raised from seed, but when once raised, they will continue on the same roots many years. Those MEDICIXAI, HERBS. 107 marked * are of the latter description, and may be propagated by suckers, offsets, cuttings, or parting tlie roots. Those who have not ah'eady a plantation of these herbs, may sow the seed of any of the different kinds in April or May, in drills about half an inch deep, and twelve inches apart, each kind by itself. The plants may afterward be transplanted into separate beds ; or, if a drill for each kind be drawn two feet apart, the seed may be sown in them, and the plants afterward thinned out to proper distances, according to the natural growth of the different kinds of plants. PLANTS CULTIVATED FOR MEDICINAL AND OTHER PURPOSES. Graines de Plantes Medicinal. Bene, Boneset, or Thoroughwort, • Balm, Bean, Castor Oil, Burdock, Catnep, Celandine, • Chamomile, • Comfrcy, •Elecampane, Feverfew, • Horehound, • Horsemint. • Hyssop, • Lavender, Lovage, • Mallow, Marsh, • Motherwort, • Patience Dock, • Pinkroot, Carolina, Poppy Opium, (annual,) • Ilosemary, • Rue, Garden, Saffron, Bastard, Skullcap, or Mad Dog Plant. Snakeroot, Virginian, • Sorrel, Sesa?)iiim orientate. Eupatoriiiin perfnliatum. Melissa officinalis. Rir.inus communis. Arciium lappa- Nepefa cataria. Chelidonuni majus. Anthemis nobil.it. Symphytum officinale. Inula fielenium. Chrysantlienium parttienium, Marubium vulgar e. Monarda punctata. Hyssoptie ifficinalis. Lavendula spicn. Lif;usticum levhticum. Altheii officinalis. Leonurus cardiaca. Runiex paiientia. Spia;elia Marylandica. Papaver soinniferum. Rosmarinus officinalis. Rut a graveolens. Carthamus tinctorius. Scutellaria lateriflora. Aristolochia serpentaria. Rurnex acetosa. 108 AROMATIC HERBS, ETC. • Southernwood, Artemvtia abrofanum. • Speedwell, Virginian, Veronica Virginica. • Spikenard, Araiin ractmosa. • Tansy, Tiiniicelum vulgare. • Wormwood, Artemisia absinthium. The p^enerality of Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs may be raised from seed sown in April and May. The greater part of the above-mentioned plants are Perennial, and will multiply from the seed they drop, or from pailings from the roots. The offsets, roots, or young plants tluis raised, should be planted at suitable distances from each other early in the spring. The beds should afterward be kept free from weeds, and as the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a diy day, and spread in a shady place to dry, for winter use. The best way to preserve them after they are dried, is to rub them so as to pass them through a sieve, then pack them in bottles or boxes, each kind by itself ; they should be after- ward kept in a dry place. In the month of October, the herb beds should be exam- ined. Lavender, Rosemary, and other tender plants, should be taken up, potted, and placed in a frame or greenhouse for the winter. Thyme, Hyssop, AVinter Savory, Southern- wood, Sage, Rue, and the like, will require their tops to be neatly dressed ; and Pot Marjoram, Burnet, Tarragon, Tansy, Pennyroyal, Sorrel, Chamomile, Fennel, Horehound, Mint, Lovage, and other kinds of hardy Perennial Herbs, should be cut down close to the ground. After this is done, it will be proper to dig lightly, and loosen the ground between the roots of the shrubby plants ; but the beds of close-growing running plants, such as Mint, Running Thyme, and all other creeping herbs, will not well admit of digging ; therefore, after the stalks are cut down, and the beds cleared of weeds, dig the alleys, and strew some of tlie loose earth evenly over the beds ; and if the ground be rather poor or light, a top dressing of very rotten dung will be of considerable service. PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. 109 This dressing will give proper nurture and protection to the roots of the plants, a neat appearance to the garden, and in spring the slioots will rise with renewed vigour. Having finished the Catalogue, I will now proceed to give directions fo£- making the most of a piece of ground well manured for early crops. In the general directions at the commencement, I observed that good rich manure was indis- pensably necessary to the producticm of some particular kinds of vegetables ; it may be farther observed, that rich ground will produce two or three valuable crops, but it re- quires some attention, to make use of it to the best advan- tage. If the gardener has leisure to dig such ground in March or Apiil, as he intends for Beans, Cucumbers, Toma*- toes. Egg-plants, or other tender plants, he may raise Ra- dishes, Spinach, Lettuce, or other small salads on it, by leav- ing a space for his hills or drills ; or Radish seed may be sown lightly over the beds of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, &c., but they must not be suffered to run to seed, as this would injure the other plants. When the first crops are gathered, it requires a little consideration before a second is planted, in order that a sufficient quantity of the best ground may be reserved for the most particular and valuable varieties of vegetables. That I may be understood, I have adopted the follovdng plans, representing beds of earth ; this will answer the same purpose as bringing my readers on the ground. No. 1. The following lines represent drills six inches apart. March 25.- — Sow Parsley, Onion, or other small seed. March 26.- — Sow Radish seed. March 25 ■ — Row Parsley. Onion, or other small seed. The Radishes being pulled early in May, leaves the inter- mediate ground for the other plants. 10 110 PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. No. 2. Drills ten inches apart. April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. April 15. — Plant early Cabbage Flanta. April 1. — Sow Spinach, or Radish seed. By the time the Cabbage requires the whole of the ground, the Spinach or Radishes may be gathered. If this bed be cleared of the second crop by the middle of July, it may be planted with Celery, Turnip, or Black Radish seed. If the Cabbage be of the late-heading kinds, the ground may be reserved for the first sowing of Spinach, Fetticus, Lettuce, &c., in which case it will require a fresh coat of manure No. 3. Drills twelve inches apart. March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. March 20. — Plant Turnip-rooted Beet seed. March 20. — Plant slips or cuttings of Horse-radish. If required, a light crop of Radishes may be raised on this bed, which should be pulled while young. Hoe and thin out the Beets as they progress in growth, and when full grown, they may be gathered, without disturbing the Horse-radish. [See article Horse-radish.] PLAN OF BEDS, ETC. Ill No. 4. Rows, or drills, fourteen inches apart. March 20. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. March 20. — Pant hardy Lettuce plants. Hoe them the first week in April ; previous to hoeing the second time, draw a drill between each row of plants, and plant Beet or Carrot seed ; this may be covered up in hoe- ing the Lettuce, and by the time the plants are up strong, the Lettuce will be fit to cut. If these roots are well attended to, they may be cleared off soon enough to produce fall Cab- bage, Leeks, Celery, Turnips, Black Radishes, &c. No. 5. Rows, or drills, sixteen inches apart. March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. March 25. — Plant hardy Lettuce plants. April 20. — Plant Early York Cabbage plants, either between the rows or between the Lettuce. As soon as the Lettuce is off, hoe the Cabbage, and it will soon cover the ground. This ground will be suitable for a crop of any of the va- rieties above mentioned, except Cabbage, the roots of which are apt to get defective, if the same ground be planted with Cabbage twice in succession. The above, or preceding plans, present a fair specimen of what may be done on a small piece of good ground. If the 112 HOT-BEDS. young gartlenei- takes the trouble to keep an account of his transactions, he will soon make discoveries of still greater importance. If not sutKcienlly acquainted with the different varieties of Cabbage plants, for instance, so as to distinguish the one from the other, by making a memorandum at the time of sowing the seed he will soon get acquainted with the different varieties of plants ; he will also discover the differ- ence in the growing of his seed, and know who to blame if any particular kind should not come up. The following represents a Hot-bed with four sashes, sovm March 1 : Early Dwarf, Early Battersea, Early Lettuce, Egg-plant Tomato Seed, Seed, &c. Early York, Drumhead, or Peppers, partitioned off or other spring other summer kc. in shallow as directed in note to article Cabbage Seed. Cabbage Seed. drills. Egg-plant. It may be necessary to remind my readers of the neces sity of being always prepared to sow Cabbage, Lettuce, To- mato, and Egg-plant seed in hot-beds the last week in Feb- 1 uary, or early in March ; for this pui^pose, let some fresh stable dung and lich compost be engaged beforehand. Some gardeners make their beds on the level ground, but it is always safest to make them in pits from eighteen inches to two feet deep;* in order to do this, the pits should be dug * When durable heat is required for forcing vegetables, the beds should be made on level ground, in order that lininss may be applied to the out- side of the frame, which, by frequent renewal, will enliven the heat of the bed, and thus liring tender vegetables to maturity, which would otherwise puffer from a decline of the heat. For particular directions, see Observa- tions on Forcing Vegetables ; also, article on Forcing Asparagus. HOT-BEDS. 113 in autumn, or a heap of dung may be deposited on the ground intended for the beds before the frost sets in, and good earth may be obtained from the pits without any diffi- culty. The frames should be made of good sound planks ; the back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones may be so sloped as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. A frame calculated for four sashes, of three feet in width by six in length, as above described, should be nearly thirteen feet long, and about six broad at the top. The frame being set over the pit, and properly fastened, the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the pit to the depth of twenty to twenty-four inches ; if the dung be in a good heating condition, cover it six or eight inches deep with mould, then lay on the sashes, and protect the beds from the inclemency of the weather. In two or three days the rank steam will pass off; it will then be necessary to stir the mould before the seed be sown, to prevent the growth of young weeds that may be germinating ; then sow the seed either in shallow drills or bx-oad-cast, as equally as pos- sible, reserving a small quantity of the warm mould to be sown lightly over the seed. The beds should afterward be attended to, as directed for Broccoli and Cauliflower. This description of a hot-bed is intended expressly for the raising of Spring Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomatoes, and such other plants as may be required for early planting. Beds made earlier in the season, or for forcing, will require a greater quantity of manure. [See Calendar for January, February, and 3IarcJi.] 10" 114 OBSERVATIONS FORCING VEGETABLES Before I commenced preparing this work for the press, I intended to have written largely on the subject of forcing fruits as well as vegetables ; but when I considered my motto, and that I was writing for young gardeners, I con- cluded to occupy my pages in such a manner as to effect the greatest possible good at the smallest expense. Of the seve- ral branches of Horticulture, some are of greater importance than others ; and as the products of the kitchen garden form important articles of food for the bulk of mankind, it should be our first care to treat largely on the subject of this most useful part of gardening. Next to this is the cultivation of fruits, and the production of ornamental plants and flowers, each of which will be noticed in their respective departments. As I stand pledged to offer some remarks on forcing, or rather forwarding vegetables, by artificial means, I shall en- deavour to confine ray observations to such points as are of primary importance ; and in order to convince my readers of the importance of this subject, I shall first endeavour to show the utility of an artificial climnte suited to the vaiious species of useful jjlants. In England, a regular succession of vegetables can be obtained from the natural ground every month in the year, and the fruits of that country, from the summer heat being moderate, are of longer continuance than with us, and yet the English make gardening a science, and employ the elements, as well as the ingenuity of man, in the production of fruits and vegetables out of the ordinary season. ON FORCING Vr.OCTABLES, 11-5 I shall not attempt to treat of the cultivation of Pine- apples, Grapes, Clierries, or other fiuits grown in forcing- houses ; nor would it be advisable with us to undertake to raise Cucumbers, Melons, &c., in frames throughout the se- vere winters of our Northern States ; but it must be acknow- ledged, that the extreme heat of our summers is as detri- mental to the cultivation of some of the most valuable kinds of fruits and vegetables, as the coldness of our winters, and for these reasons, artificial aid is more necessary here in the winter and spring of the year than in England. The inhabi- tants of that country obtain a supply of the different varieties of Artichokes, Broad Beans, Borecole, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Kale, Lettuce, Radishes, Rhubarb, Spinach, Turnips, and salads in general, a great part of the year from their kitchen gardens, whereas, if we were to attempt to supply our mar- kets with culinary vegetables at all times, in any thing like the abundance that they have them there, we must, out of the ordinary season fur gardening operations, turn our attention to the ]n-otecting and forwarding, as well as the forcing system. BefoTG I proceed to show the method of forcing vegeta- bles, it may be necessary for me to remind my readers, that in providing an artificial climate, they should consider the natuie of the plants they intend to cultivate, and endeavour to supply them with that which is best calculated to nourish and support them. I have, in another jiart of this work, endeavoured to show, that heat, light, air, and moisture, are each essential to vegetation, and that these should be sup- j)lied in a judicious manner, according to circumstances. In the midst of our N(jrthern winter, which is the usual time for forcing in England, we are subject to north-west winds, which produce extreme freezing. Now, as we have not yet discovered how to make an artificial air, it will not be safe for the gardener to raise a bottom heat under any kind of vegetable, until such time as he can impart a tole- rable share of salubrious air, as the heat without air will soon destrov the fruits of his labour. 116 ON FORCING VEGETABLES. Perhaps the safest time to commence forcing in frames, is soon after the middle of Fehruary, and the early part of March. I before hinted, that the depth of heating materials must he regulated by the season of the year at which the work is commenced, and also to the purposes for which the hot-beds are intended. Beds used for the purpose of raising half-hardy plants, or for procuring seedling plants late in the spring, may be made in the manner recommended for the common hot-bed ; but if substantial heat is required to be kept up, the beds must be so contrived as to admit of linings as the heat decreases ; and the dung should undergo a regu- lar process of preparation, according to the use it is intended for. Compost heaps should also be provided, in order to furnish suitable mould to the different species of plants ; for this purpose, all the old hot-bed dung and mould, leaves, tan, turf, sand, and other light manures and decayed animal dung, should be collected together. In some cases, when a slight hot-bed is recommended for forwarding hardy plants, if it should happen that a seedling Cucumber bed be at liberty, it may answer every purpose for Radishes, Lettuce, or other hardy plants ; or such a bed may be spawned for Mushroons, if required. If the forcing be commenced before the coldest of the winter is past, great precaution must be used, lest the plants be injured by cold cutting winds, or destroyed by heat for want of air. To prevent the foi-mer accident, warm dung should be placed around the frames, and the sashes covered with mats and boards every night. If full air cannot be ad- mitted in the day time, the sashes must be slidden down to let off the steam ; at the same time mats may be laid over the aperture, to prevent cold air entering to the plants. If the bottom heat in a bed be too violent, which is some- times the case, means must be used to decrease it. This is generally effected by making holes in the bed with a stake sharpened at the end, or with a crow-bar ; which holes should be filled up when the heat is sufhciently reduced. In lining FORCING ASPARAGUS. 117 hot-beds, if the heat is reduced in the body of the beds, holes may be carefully made to admit heat from the fresh linings, so as to enliven the heat of the bed. A Fahrenheit thermometer should always be at hand at the time of forcing, to be used, when necessary, to regulate the heat in the beds ; and the water that is used in cultiva- ting plants in frames, should be warmed to the temperature of the air, or according to the heat required for the vanous kinds of plants, which will be shown in the annexed articles. FORCING ASPARAGUS IN HOT-BEDS. As Asparagus is apt to grow weak and slender by extreme bottom heat, it is forced with greater success, and with less trouble, in flued pits in a hot-house, than in dung hot-beds, because the heat from tan is more regular ; but a vezy suita- ble bed may be formed in a deep hot-bed frame, made in the usual way. If dung alone, or a mixture of dung and leaves, be used, it should be in a state past heating violently before it is made into a bed ; but if the gardener has no choice of materials, he may make his hot-bed in the usual way, and if the depth of heating materials be two feet, he may lay on a foot of old hot-bed dung, tan, or any light compost, that will admit of the heat passing through it. It may be necessary to state farther, that though too much bottom heat should be avoided, heat is necessary to the pro- duction of the vegetable in a moderate time, which is gene- rally effected in a month or six weeks after the commence- ment of the operations. For the purpose of keeping up a regular heat, a lining of hot dung should be applied around the frame, and changed as occasion lequires. Provide plants fiom two to four, or even six years old, trim their roots, and place them in rows on the beds ; when one row is laid, strew a little mould among the roots, then proceed in the same way with one row after another, keep- 118 FORCING ASPARAGUS. ing them on a level, as the surface of the bed at first lay, till you have finished planting them ; then lay among the Luds and roots some fine vegetable or other rich mould, work it in among them with your fingers, and cover the beds over about an inch thick ; and upon that, lay three inches in de])th of vegetable mould not very rotten, old tan, or any other light compost that will admit the water to run quickly through. If there be a strong heat in the bed, slide down the sashes till it begins to decline. The temperature at night should never be under 50\ and it may rise to 65° without injury; when the buds begin to appear, as much air must be daily admitted as the weather will j^ermit. In two or three days after the beds are planted, the heat will begin to rise : the beds should then have a moderate supply of water, applied from a watering-pot with the rose attached ; repeat such watering every three or four days. When the buds are up three inches above the sui'face, they are fit to gather for use, as they will then be six or seven inches in length. In gathering them, draw aside a little of the mould, slip down the finger and thumb, and twist them off" from the crown : this is a better method than to cut them ; at least, it is less dangerous to the rising buds, which come up thick in succession. An ordinary-sized fi'ame calculated for three sashes will hold from three to five hundred plants, according to their age and size, and will, if properly managed, yield a dish every day for about three weeks. On the above estimate, if a con- stant succession of Asparagus be required, it will be neces- sary to ])lant a bed every eighteen or twenty days. Rhubarb and Sea-Kale may be, and sometimes are, forced in the same manner as Asparagus ; but the most general mode is to excite them where they stand in the open garden, by the application of warm dung. FORWARDING BEANS. 119 FORWARDING BROAD BEANS, OR ENGLISH DWARFS. In the article Broad Beans, {Vicia faba,) I have already urged the necessity of early planting, in order that a full crop may be insured before the approach of warm weather ; but as the ground is often frozen at the time they ought to be planted, some of the best kinds may be planted in boxes, and placed in a moderate hot-bed in February, or early in March. If the plants thus raised be not made too tender, they may be ti"ansplanted into the open ground the latter end of March ; this will enable them to produce their fruit early in June. Or if a heap of manure be spread thick on a piece of grbund late in autumn, it will keep the earth from freezing ; and if this manure be removed in February, and a frame placed over the spot and protected from extreme cold, the seedlings may be raised therein, and transplanted into the garden, as directed in article, page 39. Those who have not the convenience of hot-beds or frames, may, in the month of February, plant some of the seed about two inches deep in boxes kept in the cellar, or in earth on the floor, which will produce plants fit to transplant in the open garden toward the latter end of March or early in April. FORCING KIDNEY BEANS. The most dwarfish kinds of Kidney Beans may be raised in hot-beds ; but they require a substantial heat to mature them. The temperature within the frames should be kept up to 60% and may rise to 70^ or 75°, provided the steam be let off. In order to insure sufficient heat to bring them into a bearing state, the plants may be first raised in small pots plunged into a hot-bed, or a small bed may be prepared, 120 FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. earthed over with light rich compost, six inches deep, and the Beans planted therein, and covered one inch. The second hot-bed should be earthed over to the depth of eight or nine inches, and the Beans transplanted as soon as they are two or three inches high, in cross rows twelve or fifteen inches apart, by three or four inches in the rows, or in clumps a foot apart. When the season is so far advanced that one bed, with the help of linings, will bring the plants well into fruit, the seed may be planted at once to remain for podding ; or if the gardener should choose to mature his crop in the open ground, he may raise his plants in boxes or pots in the month of April, and plant them out in a warm border early in May. Beans raised in hot-beds will require considerable atten- tion. Cover the glasses every night with mats and boards ; admit fresh air every mild day, give occasional gentle water- ings, and earth them up carefully as they progress in growth, to strengthen them. FORWARDING BROCCOLI AND CAULIFLOWER. In treating of the method of cultivating this family of plants, in the articles under each head, I recommended an artificial climate to be provided for them, so as to induce them to arrive at full perfecti(m in the winter and early part of the spring. Gardeners who have provided frames for the purpose of making hot-beds, in the spiing, may make use of them through the winter, in protecting Broccoli and Cau- liflower ; and as the frames will not be wanted until the se- verity of the winter is past, such plants as are left at that season may be protected by a covering of boards, straw, or litter, as occasion may re(june. If Cauliflower be re(juired early in the summer, the plants raised in the preceding autumn should be transplanted from the beds into the open ground, in the month of March, and FORCING CUCUMBERS. 121 be protected by hand glasses. This would insure their heading before the approach of extreme warm weather, which is very injurious to Cauliflower. FORCING CUCUMBERS. To produce Cucumbers at an early season, should be an object of emulation with every gardener. The business of forcing them should commence about eight or ten weeks before the fruit is desired, and a succession of plants should be raised to provide for accidents. Some choose the Short Prickly, others the Long Green and White Spined ; and seed two or three years old is generally prefeiTed, as it is not so apt to run to vines. The seed is generally sown in pots or boxes of light rich mould, and placed in a hot-bed ; and some sow the seed in the earth of a small bed prepared for the purpose. In either case, as soon as the plants have fully expanded their two seed leaves, they may be transplanted into pots, putting three plants in each pot ; when this is done, apply water warmed to the temperature of the bed, and shut down the glasses, keeping them a little shaded by throwing a mat over the glass, till the plants have taken root. When they ai'e about a month old, they will be fit to transplant into the fruit- ing bed. To prepare the dung properly, is of the greatest impor- tance in forcing the Cucumber, and if not done before it is made into a bed, it cannot be done afterward, as it requires turning and managing to cause it to ferment freely and sweetly. Fresh dung from the stable should be laid in a heap, turned three times, and well mixed with a foi'k ; if any ap- pears dry, it should be made wet, always keeping it between the two extremes of wet and dry, that the whole may have* a regular fermentation. A diy situation should be chosen on which to form beds, 11 1S3 FORCING CUCUMBERS. SO that no water can settle under the dung. Tne substance of dung from the bottom of the bed should be from three to four feet, according to the season of planting, and the mould should be laid on as soon as the bed is settled, and has a lively, regular-tempered heat. Lay the earth evenly over the dung, about six inches deep ; after it has lain a few days examine it, and if no traces of a burning effect are disco- vered, by the mould turning of a whitish colour and caking, it will be fit to receive the plants ; but if the earth ajipears burned, or has a rank smell, some fresh sweet mould should be provided for the hills, and placed in the frame to get warm ; at the same time, vacancies should be made to give vent to the steam, by running down stakes. After the situation of the bed has been ascertained, and the heat regulated, the hole should be closed, and the earth formed into hills ; raise one hill in the centre under each sash, so that the earth is brought to within nine inches of the glass ; in these hills, plant three seedlings, or turn out such as may be in pots, with the balls of earth about their roots, and thus insert one patch of three plants in the mid- dle of each hill. The plants should be immediately watered with water heated to the temperature of the bed, and kept shaded till they have taken root. The temperature should be kept up to 60*^, and may rise to SO'^ without injury, provided the rank steam be allowed to pass off"; therefore, as the heat begins to decline, timely linings of well-prepared dung must be applied all round the frame. Begin by lining the bark part first ; cut away the old dung perpendicularly by the frame, and form a bank two feet broad, to the height of a foot, against the back of the frames ; as it sinks, add more ; renew the linings round the remainder of the bed as it becomes necessary, and be care- ful to let off" the steam, and give air to the plants at all op- portunities. Give necessary waterings, mostly in the morning of a mild day, in early forcing ; and in the afternoon, in the advanced FORCING CUCUMBERS. 123 season of hot sunny weathei'. Some use water impregnated with sheep or pigeon dung. As the roots begin to spread, and the vines to run, the hills should be enlarged by gather- ing up the earth around them, for which purpose a supply of good mould should be kept ready at hand, to be used as required. When the plants have made one or two joints, stop them, by pinching off the tops, after which they generally put forth two shoots, each of which let run till they have made one or two clear joints, and then stop them also ; and afterward con- tinue throughout the season to stop them at every joint ; this will strengthen the plants, and promote their perfecting the fruit early. The following artificial operation is recommended by Abercrombie, Phial, and other writers, as essential to the production of a full crop of Cucumbers under glass. In plants more freely exjjosed to the open air, the impregnation is effected by nature. Those which some call false blossoms are the male flowers, and are indispensable in this operation. " The Cucumber," Abercrombie observes, " bears male and female blossoms distinctly on the same plant. The lat- ter only produce the fruit, which appears first in miniature, close under the base, even before the flower expands. There is never any in the males ; but these are placed in the vici- nity of the females, and are absolutely necessary, by the dis- persion of their farina, to impregnate the female blossom ; the fruit of which will not otherwise swell to its full size, and the seed will be abortive. The early plants under glass, not having the full current of natural air, nor the assistance of bees and other winged insects to convey the farina, the artificial aid of the cultivator is necessary to effect the im- pregnation. At the time of fructification, watch the plants daily ; and as soon as the female flowers and some male blossoms are fully expanded, proceed to set the fruit the same day, or next mornmg at farthest. Take off a male blossom, detaching it with part of the footstalk. Hold this 124 FORWARDING LETTUCE. between the finger and thumb ; pull away the flower leaves, or petals, close to the stamens and anthera?, or central part, wliicli apply close to the pistil in the bosom of the female flower, twirling it a little about, to discharge thereon some particles of the fertilizing powder. Proceed thus to set every fruit, as the flowers of both sorts open, while of a lively full expansion ; and generally perform it in the early part of the day, using a fresh male, if possible, for every impregna tion, as the males are usually more abundant than the female blossoms. By this management, the young fruit A\ill soon be observed to swell freely." Cucumbers attain the pro})er size for gathering in from fifteen to twenty days after the time of setting ; and often in succession for two or three months or more, in the same beds, by good culture. FORWARDING CUCUMBERS UNDER HAND GLASSES. If it be desired to have Cucumbers in the open garden at an early season, the plants may be raised in ])ots a.s before directed, and planted in a warm border either in the earth, or in hot-bed ridges. A hand-glass should be provided for each hill, which must be kept close down every night and in cool days, taking care to admit air when practicable. The plants may be hardened by degrees, by taking oft' the glass in the heat of the day, and as the weather gets warm they may be left to nature. FORWARDING LETTUCE FOR USE IN WINTER. Head Lettuce may be cultivated for use in the winter season by means of gentle hot-beds, or in cold-beds made in the manner recommended for the raising of early Cabbage FORCING MUSHROOMS. 125 plants, &c. (See article Cabbage.) For such Head Lettuce as may be wanted for use before Christmas, the Hardy Green, the Loco Foco, and Coss, are the most suitable kinds to sow ; and plants may be raised in the open border by sow- ing seed two or three times between the middle of August and the first week in September. The plants from these sowings may be set out, about six inches apart, in cold-beds, when they are one or two inches high. In September and early in October, some of the Silesia, Sugar Loaf, Butter Lettuce, or any other esteemed sorts, may be sown in a cold-bed frame, which, with the aid of sashes, will produce plants in from a month to six weeks ; these being planted in gentle hot-beds in November and December, will produce Head Lettuce until a plentiful sup- ply can be obtained from the open borders. The same at- tention is necessary, as respects the protection of these beds, as for other half-hardy plants. FORCING MUSHROOMS AT ALL SEASONS. The Jigaricus is said to be the most extensive genus in the vegetable kingdom. The species are determined upon various principles. As some of tlie kinds are poisonous, it is necessary to describe the eatable Mushroom. Loudon says, it is most readily distinguished when of a middle size, by its fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, and pleasant smell. In a more advanced age, the gills become of a chocolate colour, and it is then more apt to be confounded with other kinds of dubious quality ; but that species which most nearly resembles it, is slimy to the touch, destitute of fine odour, and has a disagreeable smell. Again : the noxious kinds grow in woods, while the true Mushroom springs up chiefly in open pastures, and should be gathered only in such places. Unwholesome /?<"gi will sometimes spring up on artificial ir 126 FORCING MUSHROOMS. beds in gardens ; thus, when the spawn begins to run, a spurious breed is often found to precede a crop of genuine Mushrooms. The poisonous toad-stool, Jlgaricus cirocus, may generally be detected by the presence of a sickly, nau- seous smell, though some hurtful kinds are so free from any thing disagreeable in the smell, as to make any criterion, drawn from that alone, very unsafe. The wholesome kinds, however, invariably emit a grateful, rich odour. The Jlga- ricus campeslris is most generally cultivated. Dr. Withering mentions other eatable varieties, which grow considerably larger, but are inferior in flavour ; he says " that a plant of the variety Georgia was gathered in an old hot-bed at Bir- mingham, which weighed fourteen pounds ; and Mr. Stack- house found one fifty-four inches in circumference, having a stem as thick as a man's v\Tist." Mushrooms may be obtained at any season of the year, by a proper regulation of the time and manner of forming the beds. A good crop is sometimes collected without ma- king a bed on purpose, by inti'oducing lumps of spawn into the top mould of old hot-beds. The methods of procuring and propagating spaAvn, and of forming Mushroom beds, are numerous. Indigenous spawn may be collected in pasture lands in September and October, or it may be found in its strength and purity in the paths of mills worked by horses, or in any other horse-walks under shelter; it is frequently found in old hot-beds and dunghills in the summer season, and Mushrooms of good quality may often be seen beginning to form on the surface, like large peas ; w^hen these are absorbed, it is time to take out the spawTi, which is generally in hard, dry lumps of dung, the spawn having the appearance of whitish coarse pieces of thread. The true soit has exactly the smell of a Mush- room. If spawn thus collected be required for immediate use, it may be planted in the beds at once, or it will kee]> three or four years, if laid to dry with the earth adhering to it, and afterward placed in a warm, dry shed, where there FORCING MUSHROOMS. 127 is a cuirent of ah'; but if it be not completely dried, the spawn will exhaust itself or perish, as it will not bear the extremes of heat, cold, or moisture. Such of my readers as may have hitherto been unac- quainted with the cultivation of Mushrooms, must perceive, from the preceding remarks, that a Mushroom bed is simply a heap of animal dung and earth, so tempered as to be ca- pable of producing and preserving spawn ; but in order to have fruitful spawn at all times, it should be so formed as to be always at command. To this end, a quantity of fresh horse droppings mixed with short litter, should be collected ; add to this one third of cow dung, and a small portion of good earth, to cement it together; mash the whole into a thin compost, like grafting clay ; then form it in the shape of bricks ; which being done, set them on edge, and frequent- ly turn them until half dry ; then with a dibble make one or two holes in each brick, and insert in each hole a piece of spawn the size of an egg : the bricks should then be laid where they can dry gradually. When dry, lay dry horse dung on a level floor, six or eight inches thick ; on this, pile the bricks, the spawn side uppermost. When the pile is snugly formed, cover it with a small portion of fresh warm horse dung, sufficient in quantity to produce a gentle glow through the whole. When the spawoi has spread itself through every part of the bricks, the process is ended, and they may be laid up in any dry place for use. Mushroom spawn, made according to this receipt, will preserve its ve- getating powers for many years, if well dried before it is laid up ; if moist, it will grow, and soon exhaust itself. Mushroom beds are often formed in ridges in the open air, covered with litter and mats, so as to prevent heavy rains exciting a fermentation ; and sometimes in ridges of the same sort under cover, as in the open sheds of hot-houses. They are also made in close sheds behind hot-houses, or in houses built on pm-pose, called Mushroom-houses. A mo- derately warm, light cellar is peculiarly suited for the pur- 128 FORCING MUSHROOMS. pose in the -winter season, as no fire is necessary, and but little water, the application of which frequently proves inju- rious, when not judiciously managed. Mushrooms may also be raised in pots, boxes, hampers, &c., placed in warm situa- tions ; in old-beds, in pits with glazed frames, and in dark frames or pits. The geneial way of making Mushroom beds, is to prepare a body of stable dung, moderately fennented, about a yard in thickness, more or less, according to the size and situa- tion in which the bed is to be formed ; when the strong heat has subsided, an inch of good mould may be laid over it, and the spawn planted therein in rows five or six inches apart ; after this is done, another layer of mould, an inch thick, may be added, and then a coat of straw. Beds well constructed will produce Mushrooms in five or six weeks, and will continue to produce for several months, if care be taken in gathering, not to destroy the young ones. As Mushrooms are gathex'ed, from time to time, the straw should be spread carefully over the bed. Beds made in a convenient place, where there is space all around, may be formed so as to make four sloping surfaces, similar to the roof of a house ; this, by being spawned on the four sides, will yield abundantly. The celebrated Mr, Nichol makes his beds without spawn. The following are his directions, taken from Loudon's Encyclopoedia of Gar- dening : " After having laid a floor of ashes, stones, chips, gravel, or brick-bats, so as to keep the bed quite dry and free from under damp, lay a course of horse-droppings six inches thick. These should be new from the stables, and must not be broken, and the drier the better. They may be collected every day until the whole floor or sole be covered to the above thickness ; but they must not be allowed to ferment or heat. In the whole process of making up, the bed should bo as much exposed to the air as possible ; and it should be carefully defended from wet, if out of doors, \\'Tien this FORCING MUSHROOMS. 129 course is quite dry, aiitl judged to be past a state of fermen- tation, cover it to tlie thickness of two inches with hght, dry earth ; if sandy, so much the better. It is immaterial whe- ther it be rich or not, the only use of earth here being for spawn tn run and mass in. Now lay another course of drop- pings, and earth them over as above, when past a state of fermentation : then a third course, which, in like manner, earth all over. This finishes the bed, which will be a very strong and productive one, if properly managed afterward. " Observe, that in forming the bed, it should be a little rounded, in order that the centre may not be more wet or moist than the sides. This may be done in forming the sole or floor at first, and the bed would then be of equal strength in all parts. If it be made up against a wall in a cellar, stable, or shed, it may have a slope of a few inches from the back to the front, less or more, according to its breadth. I have sometimes been contented with two courses ^s above, instead of three ; and often, when materials were scarce, have made them up slighter, thus : three four-inch courses of droppings, with one inch of earth between each, and a two-inch covering at top. Such a bed as this, I have had produce for ten or twelve months together ; but very much depends on the state of the materials, and on the care taken in making it up, also on the after management. " The droppings of hard-fed horses only are useful. Those of horses kept on green food will, of themselves, produce few or no mushrooms. I have made up beds from farm horses, fed partly on hard and partly on green food, and from carriage or saddle horses, fed entirely on corn and hay; treated them in the same way in every respect ; and have found, not once, but always, those made from the latter most productive. Droppings from hard-fed horses may be pro- cured at the public stables in towns, or at inns in the coun- try, any time of the year; and if the supply be plentiful, a bed of considerable dimensions may be made and finished withifi five or six weeks. In as many more weeks, if in a 130 FORCING MUSHROOMS. Stable or dry cellar, or a flued shed, it will begin to produce, and (ifVcii sooner; but if the situation of the bed be cold, it will sometimes be two or three montlis in producing Mush- rooms." It may be necessary to state faither, that extremes of heat, cold, drought, and m(»isture, should be avoided in the culti- vation of Mushrooms. If the temperature keeps up to 50° in the winter, the beds will be safe, and the heat in the beds may nse to 60^ or even 70° without injury. Air also must be admitted in proportion to the heat, and 60° should be aimed at as a medium temperature. Water, when given a little at a time, is better than too much at once, after the spawn has begun to spread ; and the water for this purpose should always be made blood warm. A light covering of straw may be used to preserve moisture on the surface ; and if the beds are made in open frames, or otherwise subject to exposure, the straw may be laid thicker than on beds made in a cellar. Should beds fail in producing Mushrooms after having been kept over hot or wet, it may be inferred that the spawn is injured or destroyed; but if, on the contrary, a bed that has been kept moderately warm and dry, should happen to be unproductive, such bed may be well replenished with warm water, and a coat of warm dung may be laid over the whole. If this does not enliven the bed after having lain a month, take off the earth ; and if, on examination, there is no appearance of spawn, the whole may be destroyed ; but if, on the contrary, the bed should contain spawn, it may be renovated by covering it again, especially if any small tuber- cles be discernible ; if the heat should have declined, the spawn may be taken out and used in a fresh bed. If beds DO formed in hot-bed frames under glass, some mats or straw must be laid over the glass to break off the intense heat of the sun. Although only one species of edible fungi has yet been intioduced into the garden, there are several eatable kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. 131 In Poland and Russia there are above thirty kinds in com- mon use among the peasantry. They are gathered at diffe- rent stages of their growth, and used in various ways : raw, boiled, stewed, roasted ; and being hung up, and dried in their stoves and chimneys, form a part of their winter stock of provisions. Great caution is necessary in collecting Mushrooms for food, and none but the botanist should gather any but the kinds we have described.* PhysiciaTis say, " That all the edible species should be thoroughly masticated before they are taken into the stomach, as this greatly lessens the effect of poisons. When accidents of the sort happen, vomiting should be immediately excited, and then the vege table acids should be given, either vinegar, lemon juice, or uhat of apples ; after which, give ether and anti-spasmodic remedies, to stop the excessive vomiting. Infusions of gall- nut, oak bark, and Peruvian bark, are recommended as capa- ble of ne'utralizing the poisonous principle of Mushrooms." It is, however, the safest way not to eat any but the well- known kinds. FORWARDING MELONS UNDER HAND-GLASSES. Although our citizens have an opportunity of procuring Melons without artificial aid, yet, as their continuance is short, it may not be amiss to remind the gardener that the direc- tions already given for maturing Cucumbers under glass will apply to Melons, with very few exceptions ; care, however, must be taken that they be kept away from each other at the time of fruiting, as instances often occur of whole crops being entirely ruined, by plants of the same genus being • In order to ascertain whether what appear to be Mushrooms are of the true edible kinds, sprinkle a little salt over the inner or spongy part ; if, in a short time after, they turn yellow, they are unwholesome ; but if black, they may be considered as genuine Mushrooms. 132 FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. raised too near each other. Tliose wlio wish to forward Melons, may prepare a hot-bed in March or April, to raise plants in ; the beds may be formed and the plants managed in precisely the same manner as is directed for Cucumbers. If the ridging system be adopted, and a hand-glass a])])lied to each hill, Melons may be obtained one month earlier than the usual time. Gardeners raising Melons for the supply of city markets, may gi-atify the public taste early in the season, by pursuing the forwarding, if not the forc'ing system. Ridges may be prepared in the following maimer : In April or May, a trench may be dug in a warm border, about two feet deep and three wdde, and of sufficient length for as many hand-glasses as are intended to be employed, allowing three feet for every hill. Some good heating manure should be laid in the pits, managed the same as a common hot-bed ; to this must be added good rich mould to the depth of eight or ten inches for the plants to grow in ; as soon as the mould is warm, the seedlings may be planted, three plants in each hill, after which the hand-glasses should be set on, and shaded. After the plants have taken root and began to grow, the glasses should be raised in fine days, and propped up so as to admit fresh air ; and as the warm weather progresses, they may be taken off in the middle of fine days so as to harden the plants gradually to the weather ; and by the latter end of May they may be left to nature. FORCING PEAS IN HOT-BEDS. The best kinds of Peas to force, are those that are the most dwarfish, and the seed is better for being two or three years old, as they will bear earlier, and make less straw. Peas run less to vine by being transplanted, than when they are sown where they are to remain ; the plants may be raised in a gentle hot-bed, either in the earth of the bed, or in pots FORCING POTATOES. 133 or boxes. They do not re square rod of ground will supply a family ; and it may be used till midsummer or later. [For fuller erplanalions, see , article Rhubarb.] FORWARDING SALAD HERBS, SMALL PLANTS, &c. For the purpose of raising Mustard, Cress, and other salad herbs, also Egg-plants, Tomato })lants, &:c-, in small quanti- ties, a hot-bed may be made, early in the spring, of good heating materials, on the top of which maybe laid leaf mould, old tan, or light compost, to the depth of about nine inches. The various kinds of seed may be sown in boxes or flower- pots, and plunged in the top mould up to their rims, and by being well attended to, a supply of small salads, as well as small seedling plants, may be raised without much labour or difficulty. This method is also well calculated for raising annual flower plants at an early season. FORWARDING TOMATOES. As this vegetable has become highly appreciated of late years for its excellent qualities, it may be necessary here to observe, that plants raised from seed sown in hot-beds the lat- ter end of February, or early in March, as dii'ected in former pages, will grow to the length of foin- inches and up\vard by the first of April, which is one month earlier than they can with safety be trusted in the open garden. If a few of these be pulled from the hot-bed, and transplanted into flower-pots, they may be kept growing therein until settled waiTn weather, and then turned out and deposited in the ground with the balls of earth entire ; or a fruiting-bed may be prepared by the first of Ajoril, in the manner recommended for Bush i FORCING VEGETABLES. 137 Beans, Cucumbers, tScc, and the plants inserted in the earth at once ; these will produce ripe fruit a month or six weeks earlier than those cultivated in the ordinary way. FORCING VARIOUS KINDS OF VEGETABLES. The following simple method of forcing vegetables on a small scale is recommended by a correspondent of a London magazine : " Mushrooms in winter I obtain by a very simple, though not a new process. Provide boxes three feet long, and one foot eight inches deep ; a quantity of hoi'se droppings, per- fectly dry; some spawn and some light dry soil. Fill the boxes by layers of droppings, spawn, and soil, which must be trodden perfectly tight ; repeat these triple layers till the boxes are full, and all trodden firmly together. " Four such boxes at work are sufficient for a moderate demand ; and of a dozen, four brought in at a time, and placed upon a flue of a green-house stove, will produce a fine supply. The surface of these portable beds may be covered with a little hay, and occasionally, though sparingly, watered. It is not absolutely necessary that they be set on the flue of a green-house ; a warm stable, cellar, or any other similar place, will suit equally well. This plan is also con- venient for affording a plentiful stock of superior spawn. " The same sized boxes will also do for Asparagus ; but for this pjii-pose a sufficient stock of three-year-old plants must be at hand ; also eighteen boxes, four of which are the necessary set to be forced at one time for a middling family. Half fill the boxes with decayed tanner's bark, leaf mould, or any similar mould ; on this, pack the roots as thickly as possible, and fill up the boxes with the bark, &c. Any place in a forcing-house will suit them : on the flue, under the stage, or, in short, any place where they can enioy the ne- 12* 138 FORCING VEGETABLES. cessary degree of heat. Besides Asparagus and Mush- 7ooms, Sea-Kale, Buda-Kale, Angelica, small salad, as also various pot herbs, may be raised in the same manner." Those w^ho have not the conveniences recommended in a green-house, &c., may place the boxes in a hot-bed. The glasses being laid on, and the beds covered at night, will soon promote the growth of the plants, and pi'oduce vegetable luxuries at a season when garden products in general are comparatively scarce. It is unnecessary to show of how much value such pro- cesses may be in minor establishments, or in a young country. I wish it to be understood, that in order to the successful cultivation of some of the rare vegetables I have treated of, great pains must be taken in every stage of their growth. If the advice I have given be attended to, I flatter myself we shall soon obtain a supply of many of these luxuries of the garden. My directions are founded on the success attending the practice of some of the best gardeners in this country. I have also had sufficient experience to wairant me in this attempt to contribute my mite toward the attain- ment of this kind of useful knowledge. METJIon OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. 139 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. HouBLON. Humulus lupulus. Although the Hop is not a culinary vegetable, yet, as it is more or less used in every part of our country, it may not be amiss to treat of its culture. It is presumed, that, in pro- portion as habits of temperance are inculcated, our citizens vnll have recourse to beer as a wholesome beverage ; and as a great deal depends on the manner in which Hops are cured, I propose giving directions for their management throughout, so as to enable those who choose, to prepare their own. My information is collected chiefly from Loudon's Encyclopsedia of Plants. " The Hop has been cultivated in Europe an unknown length of time for its flowers, which are used for preserving beer. Its culture was introduced from Flanders in the reign of Henry the Eighth ; though indigenous both in Scotland and Ireland, it is little cultivated in those countries, owing to the humidity of their autumnal season. Like other plants of this sort, the Hop bears its flowers on different individuals ; the female plants, theiefore, are alone cultivated. There are several varieties grown in Kent and SuiTey, under the name of Flemish, Canterbury, Goldings, &c. ; the first is the most hardy, differing little from the Wild or Hedge Hop ; the Golding is an improved and highly productive variety, but more subject to blight than the other.* " The Hop pi'efers a deep loamy soil on a dry bottom ; a sheltered situation, but at the same time not so confined as to prevent a free circulation of air. The soil requires to be well pulverized and manured previous to planting. In Hop districts, the ground is generally trenched either with a * Besides these are the Farnham. or Golden Grape, which is cultivated for an early crop ; and for late picking, the Mayfield Grape, or Ruffler, is esteemed, which is a dwarfish variety. Great caution is necessary, lest the varieties get mixed, as they will not ripen or dry equally, and consequently cannot be of one uniform colour and quality. 140 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. plough or spade. The mode of planting is generally in rows six feet af)art, and the same distance in the row. By some, five, six, or seven plants, are placed in a circular form, which circles are distant five or six feet from each other. The plants or cuttings are procured from the most healthy of the old stools ; each should have two joints or buds : from the one which is placed in the ground springs the root, and from the other the stalk. Some ])l;uit the cuttings at once where they are to remain, and by others they are nursed a year in a garden. An interval crop of Beans or Cabbage is gene- rally taken the first year. Sometimes no poles are placed at the plants till the second year, and then only short ones of six or seven feet. The third year the Hop generally comes into full bearing, and then from four to six poles, from fourteen to sixteen feet in length, are placed to each circle, or one pole to each plant, if cultivated in straight rows. The most durable timber for poles is that ot the Sj)an- ish Chesnut. " The after culture of the Hop consists in stiiring the soil, and keeping it free from weeds ; in guiding the shoots to the poles, and sometimes tying thein for that purpose with bass or withered rushes ; in eradicating superfluous shoots which may rise from the root, and in raising a small heap of earth over the root to nourish the plant. " Hops are known to be ready for gathering Avlien the chaffy capsules acquire a brown colour, and a firm consist- ence. Each chaffy capsule, or leaf calyx, contains one seed. Befitre these are picked, the stalks are detached, and the poles pulled up, and pUiced horizontally on frames of wood, two or three poles at a time. The Hops are then picked off by women and children. After being carefully sepaiated from the leaves and stalks, they are dropped into a large cloth hung all round within the fiame on tenter hooks. When the cloth is full, tlie Hops are emptied into a large sack, which is carried hoiiK.-, and the Hops laid f)n a kiln to be dried. This is always to be done as soon as possible aiter METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP, HI the} are picked, or they are apt to sustain considerable danittge, both in colour and flavour, if allowed to remain long in the green state in which they are picked. In very warm weather, and when they are picked in a moist state, they will often lieat in five or six hours ; for this reason, the kilns are kept constantly at work, both night and day, from the commencement to the conclusion of the Hop-picking season. *' The operation of drying Hops is not materially different from that of diying malt, and the kilns are of the same con- struction. The Hops are spread on a hair cloth, from eight to twelve inches deep, according as the season is dry or wet, or the Hops ripe oi* immature. When the ends of the Hop stalks become quite shrivelled and dry, they are taken off the kiln, and laid on a boarded floor till they become quite cool, when they are put into bags. " The bagging of Hops is thus performed : in the floor of the room where Hops are laid to cool, there is a round hole or trap, equal in size to the mouth of a Hop-bag. After tying a handful of Hoj^s in each of the lower corners of a large bag, which serve after for handles, the mouth of the bag is fixed securely to a strong hoop, which is made to rest on the edge of the hole or trap ; and the bag itself being then dropped through the hole, the packers go into it, when a person who attends for the purpose, puts in the Hops in small quantities, in order to give the packer an opportunity of packing and trampling them as hard as possible. When the bag is filled, and the Hops trampled in so hard that it will hold no more, it is drawn up, unloosed from the hoop, and the end sewed up, two other handles having been pre- viously formed in the corners in the manner mentioned above. The brightest and finest coloured Hops are put into pockets or fine bagging, and the brown into coarse or heavy bagging. The former are chiefly used for brewing fine ale, and the latter by the porter brewers. But when Hops are intended to be kept two or three years, they are put into bags of sti'ong cloth, and firmly pressed so as to exclude the air. 142 METHOD OF CULTIVATING THE HOP. " The stripping and stacking of the poles succeed to the operation of picking. The shoot or bind being stripped off, sucix poles as are not decayed, are set up together in a coni- cal ])ile of three or four hundred, the centre of which is formed by three stout poles bound together a few feet from their tops, and their lower ends spread out. " The produce of no crop is so liable to variation as that of the Hf)p ; in good seasons an acre will produce 20 cwt., but from 10 to 12 cwt. is considered a tolerable average crop. The quality of Hops is estimated by the abundance or scarcity of an unctuous clammy powder which adheres to them, and by their bright yellow colour. I'he expenses of forming a Hop plantation are considerable ; but once in bearing, it will c(jntinue so for ten or fifteen years before it requires to be renewed. The Hop is peculiarly liable to diseases ; when young it is devoured by fleas of different kinds ; at a more advanced stage, it is attacked by the green fly, red spider, and ottermoth, the larvae of which prey even upon their roots. The honey-dew often materially injures the Hop crop ; and the mould, the fire-blast, and other blights, injure it at diifer- ent times toward the latter period of the growth of the plant." Tt appears from an article in the * Genesee Farmer,' that the cultuie of Hops is becoming an important branch of hus- bandry in the State of New- York. A coi-respondent observes, that " as fine samples have been grown in Orange and iNIa- dison counties as in any part of the world. The Hop is con- sidered somewhat precarious ; but when the season is good, the jiiofit is very great. The average product may be stated at 700 lbs., though it has reached 1,600 lbs. to the acre ; and in the latter case the expenses amounted to sixty dollars. The ordinary, or average price, may be stated at eighteen cents per pound. The profits on an ordinary crop, accord- in"' to these assumed data, would be about seventv dollais to the acre. It often falls materially short of this, however, from the want of knowledge and care in gathering and dry- ing the crop. METHOD OP CULTIVATING THE HOP. 143 " The quantity of Hops taken to Albany and the neigh- oouring towns on the Hudson, this year (1834), has been estimated at 2,300 bales, or 50,000 lbs., which, had not many of them been prematurely gathered, or badly cured, would have yielded to the growers ninety or a hundred thousand dollars. But of the 2,300 bales there was not more than 200 bales, we are informed, that ought to have received the denomination of first sorts. Many of them were picked too early, before the matter that imparts to them their value was sufficiently developed ; and others were scorched or smoked in curing. This carelessness has seriously affected the char- acter of our Hops abroad, and they are no longer purchased by the Philadelphia brewers. They would soon fijrm an im- portant article of export, if their character was raised by care in their culture and drying, and a rigid inspection." The young shoots of both wild and cultivated Hops are considered by some as very wholesome, and are frequently gathered in the spring, boiled, and eaten as Asparagus. The stalks and leaves will dye wool yellow. From the stalk a strong cloth is made in Sweden, the mode of preparing which is described by Linnaeus in his Flora Suecica. A decoction of the roots is said to be as good a sudorific as Sarsaparilla ; and the smell of the flowers is soporific. A pillow filled with Hop flowers will induce sleep, unattended with the bad effects of soporifics, which require to be taken internally. 144 OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER, AS INFLU- ENCED BY CHANGES OF THE MOON. Lest the reader should judge, from my introducing this subject, that I am an advocate for moon-planting, in any other sense than in ascribing the various changes of the weather to the influence of that great luminary, I would here ofi'er a few observations in reference to the practice and prejudices of many persons in choosing the first quarter of the moon for planting such vegetables as yield their produce above the surface, as Cabbage, &c., and the last quarter or wane of the moon for such as grow and yield their produce chiefly in the earth, and bek)W the sui'face, as Potatoes, &c. I would first observe, that if the moon has any direct in- fluence over vegetable productions, it must operate in many cases quite the reverse to what these theoiists generally ex- pect ; for instance, jf the earth and weather should happen to be dry in the first week after planting certain species of seed, such would fail to germinate, for want of its most essential nutriment, moisture; and in consequence of such seed lying dormant in the earth, until after another change of the moon, if that luminary influences the seed at all, in such case it must be contrary to the objects of the honest planter. As I deem this argument alone sufficient to shake the foundation of moon-planting, in the sense I have described, I shall at once submit to the reader's attention the following observations and table, from the pen of the justly celebrated Dr. Adam Clarke. Some exceptions, however, may be taken to his rules, with regard to the wind, which does not operate in all places alike. For example, in rainy seasons with us, the wind is generally east, northeast, or southeast, and cold weather is attended by a northwest wind. In England, where these calculations were made, it is in some respects different : " From my earliest childhood I was bred up on a little farm, which I was taught to care for and cultivate ever since I was able to spring the rattle, use the whip, manage the OBSERVATIONS ON THE WEATHER. 145 sickle, or handle the spade ; and as I found that much of our success depended on a proper knowledge and management of the weather, I was led to study it ever since I was eight years of age. I believe meteorology is a natural science, and one of the first that is studied ; and that every child in the country makes, untaught, some progress in it ; at least, so it was with me. I had actually learned, by silent observa- tion, to form good conjectures concerning the coming weather, and on this head, to teach wisdom to those who were imper- fect, especially among those who had not been obliged, like me, to watch earnestly, that what was so necessary to the family support should not be spoiled by the weather before it was housed. " Many a time, even in tender youth, I have watched the heavens with anxiety, examined the different appearances of the morning and evening sun, the phases of the moon, the scintillation of the stars, the course and colour of the clouds, the flight of the crow and swallow, the gambols of the colt, the fluttering of the ducks, and the loud screams of the seamew, not forgetting the hue and croaking of the frogs. From the little knowledge I had derived from close observa- tion, I often ventured to direct our agricultural operations in reference to the coming days, and was seldom much mistaken in my reckoning. " About twenty years ago, a table purporting to be the work of the late Dr. Herschel, was variously published, pro- fessing to perform prognostics of the weather, by the times of change, full, and quarters of the moon. T have carefully consulted this table for years, and was amazed at his general accuracy : for though long, as you have seen, engaged in the study of the weather, I never thought that any rules could be devised, liable to so few exceptions. I have made a little al- teration in the arrangements, illustrated it with further ob- servations, and have sent it to you that you may insert it, as it has hitherto been confined generally to a few almanacs." 13 146 TABLE AIVD OBSERVATIONS. A TABLE F.or tellmg the Weather through all the Lunations of each Year, for ever. This table and the accompanying remarks are the result of many years' actual observation ; the whole being constructed on a due consideration of the attraction of the sun and moon, in thiur several positions respecting the earth, and will, by simple inspection, show the observer what kind of weather will most probably follow the entrance of the moon into any of its quarters, and that so near the truth as to be seldom or never found to fail. -5 3r o a a "> , "^ o-«.- :: S , Is 2 2.S-3 3 =-!r. 3-C.3-— 2-» g.cr £.^3 = v>g-3»5:> X — • — 03tB _ _-^ , . &» prt'O^S-a.os.H ="3 15 p 3 p ^» -■^ 3-J2 3"—, 53 5-3 p ~ ■ — 2 *^ ci '^ ^ « 3.^3 ^ 2 =-• S3 ^ ^ ^- D. 5 o 5 p en tn 2 ?? — a 3 !? =• =^ I 3 •o S": m "2. s- 1"-' ^ p o :? o 3 — o p Q.'J') 3 <^ 3" ^ o 3 (0 2'S p 3 r» "I 1 3" 3-- ^ » •3-» CB _"C! 3 n> 5 275 3 O 3.P = J2.3 3 S Q.ai - -• 'B P'_j 3 His = p3? ?g'?3 ff -^ (TD O .5 S3 355 m C « ^ ■3 ? S 3- P ^ p 3 >o ^ 71 •a 3 >• ' c rti ff3 i 3! a ct 5 ■■ ' n 35 J2 C 3 ® O £3' « o M." (f Me iVeti) Moo« — the first Quarter g - -the Full Moo7i — or CD ca TO n> = r I ta s s s = H fO o__ Q CD 3 0" 3 3 i 00 it- ts oSoo 05 it'- to s. 3 B P w p p p ?r p p B p u S 3 3 3 3 3 p 3 3 3 3 5." 0. a. 0- & a. " & B. p. a. p. 3 •^ 3 "^ co Ci 4- 3 ^ _ c -1 ^ H. T3 "0 'V § w CO *• ^ 3 :^ f § ^ ^^ 3 3 - - . J, 3 5 p 3 p. > p. 3' 2'' K> H § 3 — p — . P^'-n P 3- < "i: n ^ 73 P p ^ p P ?•§ ^ s » 5' 3 pi ^' 3' ■« 05 1 geable. uent sh rainy. p. p 3 0. 0. § CC 3 1 p 5" 3 .p c V> w rri ^ 73'^'^ -^ rn Vi n en ^ CO K p _^. p p 2. S. p 3 3 3- 3 5' tn p a 3 2 3 3 _. » << p "7* s 3. -1 i-^i 3' 3 P. s >< -it F* 5 3 1 c 3_ 00 :a c •< cs u I..J %l 1 5 0. •z. p. F3 §■ 147 INTRODUCTION TO THE MONTHLY CALENDAR, The object of this Calendar is to assist the memory of the gardener, and to show him, at one glance, that he may find employment in some of the departments of gardening in every month of the year. The figures refer to the pages in which farther directions may be found, relative to the operations adverted to. In page 30 it has been shown, that the directions accom- panying our Catalogue may be applied to all the climates of the United States, by a minute observance of the difference of temperature. It may be here observed, that the soil is susceptible of cul- tivation three months earlier in the remotest South, than in the coldest part of our Northern tenitory; the Calendar, therefore, for March, maybe applied to the middle of Janu- ary in the warmest climates, and to the middle of April in the coldest ; some exceptions to this rule must, however, be taken in the Southern States after the three spiing months, for the following reasons : 1. As warm weather at the South is of longer continuance than in the North, plantations of those species of vegetables denominated tender in the table, page 26, may be made in the open garden from March to August. 2. Extreme heat being detrimental to the cultivation of many half-hardy vegetables, such as Broccoli, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Celery, Lettuce, Radish, Turnips, &c., these can only be cultivated in perfection in spring and autumn, the latter crops, therefore, should not be planted till August or September. [See note to article Broccoli, page 49 ; also 52, 72, and 104.] 148 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 3. Many of tlie half-hardy class, as also those designated ha)xly in our table, may be cultivated tlirougliout the winter months, by forwarding such as are recjuired for early spring use, after the summer crops are taken ofi". [See table, expli- cation, &c., page 26 to 29 ; also page 115. In the Eastern, Western, and Middle States, the annexed Calendar will answer in the order it stands, by applying the directions to the beginning of the first spring month in the warmest climates, and to the latter end in the coldest cli- mates, bearing in mind that where summer is short, the main crops must follow the early in quick succession, with a view to their maturity before winter. JANUARY. " Phognostics foretoken most truly some things, Of summers, and autumns, and winters, and springs ; By them from the past we may all ascertain The future, respecting the winds and the rain." It is customary, at this season of the year, with all prudent men, to look around them, and endeavour to ascertain the results of their industjy throughout the past year, in order to make improved arrangements for the future. The mere gardener, having no complicated accounts to adjust, may occupy his time to valuable purposes. If he be not a book- reader, he should be a book-keeper, (see page 14,) and he should frequently take a survey of his former practises and those of his acquaintances, with a view to improve on every thing he has done, or seen done. If he consults Avriters on Horticulture, he should do as the author has endeavoured to do in preparing this little work for the press; not adopt the mere theory of a subject, nor indulge in s])cculative ideas, nor even tread in the steps of others, but endeavour to erect his edifice of knowledge upon a good settled foundation. In all his pursuits, whether he attempts to follow the example MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 of practical and exemplary men, hear lectures, or consult authors on the subject, he should do as every sensible man •does at his daily meals, take that which suits him best, and leave the lesidue for others. If this little work should be considered worth an annual perusal, he may read the Gene- ral Remarks, in this month, (January,) and make a memo- randum of such things as may be obtained in moments of leisure, in preference to putting it oif till it is wanted. I shall endeavour to make my Calendar serve as an index to the book, and in pursuit of my object, shall begin at the General Remarks, page 13, which suggest, that if a man has a garden to form, he will requii'e fencing materials. If these should be already at hand, every gardener should provide manures, ingredients for the destiuction of insects, drilling machines, and other tools ; poles or rods for the support of Peas, Beans, or other climbing plants he may intend to cul- tivate ; and if he intends to use hot-beds, or forcing-frames, he should make arrangements to get compost and heating materials, in time for the woi'k to be performed in the next month. If he depends on this book for information, he may read the General Remarks, from page 13 to 30 ; and also from page 112 to 122, on Forcing Vegetables. FEBRUARY. "A cold, sour autumn, they sternly maintain, A long, severe winter will bring in its train ; If summer and autumn be both dry and warm, Calm opens the winter, it closes in storm." Although stern winter, with its ice-bound chains, exerts its influence over the soil, the gardener may find employment preparatory to commencing his operations of ploughing and planting, as the year progresses. Perhaps the most import- ant business at this season is to collect plenty of manure ; next to this, the gardener, who intends to raise early plants 13* 150 MONTHLV CALENDAR. for forcing or otherwise, should see that his hot-bed frames are in good repair and ready for use ; he should also repair his sashes, and make straw mats with which to cover them. In preparing dung or other heating materials for hot-beds or forcing-pits, let it be kej)! secure from heavy falls of snow or rain, and frucjuently turned over preparatory to its being made into a bed. \A^ith a view to give all attention to cul- ture as the season advances, the gardener should look over his hardy fruit trees and hai'dy vines, and commence pruning them, by cutting off all dead and superfluous branches ; he may also clean trees from moss and canker, and search for the nests of insects, with a view to destroy them while in a torpid state, to prevent their spreading. If he has trellises, or any implement of husbandry out of repair, he should em- bx'ace the most favourable opportunities of putting them in good condition, and of repairing his fences, &c. Previous to making hot-beds, select a situation that is well protected by a close fence or wall, and n(jt in any way con- nected with any building calculated to harbour rats, mice, moles, &c., which are very apt to take up their abode in warm duug, to the great injury, and sometimes the destruc- tion, of the beds. It is necessary that the foundation for the beds be dryly situated, and not liable to be inundated with water from melted snow, &c. Wlien all is prepared as di- rected in pages 112 and 113, begin to sow Cabbage, Egg- plant, Lettuce, and Tomato seed, 112 ; force Asparagus, 117 ; Kidney Beans, 119; Cucumbers, 121; plant Peas, 132; Potatoes, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 134. In cold-beds, well protected, plant Broad Beans, 119; sow Cabbage seed, 54. After the seed is sown, the beds will require constant attention ; cover them up well in cold nights, and give air at all opportunities, taking care to regulate the heat in the beds, as directed under the different heads, from page 112 to 138. If the heat be excessive, it must be decreased as directed in page 116 ; and if it should become necessary to let off steam in cold weather, care must be taken to cover the apertures MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151 sufficiently to keep out frosty air. Give air at all opportu- nities to Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, of last year's sowing. MARCH. " If the sun appear dim, surrounded with haze. And his disk ill-defined, and faded his rays ; If white at his setting, of power if shorn, The signs are all certain, there'll soon be a storm." This month affords considerable employment to an indus- trious gai'dener. Manure may be drawn on the ground and distributed in heaps, ready to spread, page 24 ; and the hot- beds and forcing-frames will require constant attention. Cover them up warm in cold nights, and give additional air as the season progi'esses, to prevent the plants growing weak, taking cai'e to regulate the heat as directed for the different kinds of vegetables. If any additional frames are to be put down this month, either for forcing or forwarding vegetables, they should be attended to in time, as directed. In order to afford time for cultivating the soil as the weather moderates, the gardener should proceed with his business of pruning and cleaning fruit trees, shrubs, &c., at all opportunities ; and if any removal be necessary, or fresh ti'ees, shrubs, vines, &c., are required, these things should be obtained and planted this month, if possible. Begin the work of the kitchen gai'den as soon as the earth can be brought into good condition, and transplant hardy Lettuce plants, 73 ; dress Artichoke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhu- barb, 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95 ; and prepare to make new planta- tions of these vegetables. Plant Broad Beans, 39 ; Beet Beod, 44 ; Rape, 47 ; plant Cauliflower plants under hand- glasses, 51 and 120; sow Cabbage seed, 55 and 112; Car^ rot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; plant Chives, 66 ; Cucumber, in frames, 121; sow Egg-plant seed, 66; plant Horse-radish, 69; Leek, 152 MONTHLY CALENDAR. 71; Lettuce, 72; jilant Melon seed in liot-hetls, 132; sow Onion, 78 ; Parsley, SO ; Parsnip, 81 ; Pepper, 82 ; plant Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, in frames, 133 ; sow Radish seed, 88 and 134 ; plant Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90 ; Sea-Kale, 95 ; Skir- ret, 97 ; sow Spinach seed, 99; Tomato, 101 and 112; Turaip seed, 104; prepare to make Hop plantations, 139; sow Herb seed, 106 to 108. Plant esculents for seed, beginning with the hardiest kinds ; raise up and plant Cabbage stumps, &c., to produce greens early for the table. In the course of this month, every thing should be forwarded relative to the cul- tivation and preparation of the ground, by levelling such as may have lain in ridges through the winter, and by manuring and digging the soil generally, preparatory to sowing and planting it early in next month. In the event of unfavourable weather in March, the plant- ing of some of the articles above enumerated may be de- layed until the early part of April ; but it should be borne in mind that if the hardiest kinds can be planted early, more time will be afforded to other important business, as the sea- son progresses. APRIL. " The state of the tvind augurs rain, as they say. When restless in chana;es, now this, now tliat way, Or hollow, comes whistling plaintively by, 'J'lie rain it betokens is probably nigh." This is certainly the most important month in the year for gardening operations. Finish as early as possible the planting of esculents for seed, and see that all plants of the same genus are remote from each other, or they will adul terate. All the soil of a garden should be dug or ploughed this month if j)Ossible, and some of the early crops sown last month will require hoeing and weeding. Great care should be taken to have good sound seed, as MONTHLY CALENDAR. 153 this is a matter of the utmost importance, and for want of which, many are disappointed in their principal crops when too late to sow again. It is also a material consideration to have the best varieties both of seed and plants of their re- spective kinds. See page 25. If nut done last month, make plantations of Artichokes, 31; Asparagus, 35; Beans, Viciafaha, 39; towards the end of the month, plant Beans, Phastolus, 41 and 42 ; Beet seed 44 ; sow late kinds of Broccoli seed, 48 ; not Cape Broccoli until May; seed of Cabbage for summer use, 55 ; Cardoon 58 ; Carrot, 59 ; Celery, 60 ; sow Cress seed, 64 ; plant Cu cumber in frames, 124 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Horse Radisl; 69 ; Indian Corn, 70 ; Jerusalem Artichokes, 70 ; sow Leek seed, 71; Lettuce seed, 72; plant Melon in hot-beds, 132 sow Mustard seed, 76'; plant Nasturtium, 76; sow Onion seed, 78 ; Parsley, SO ; Parsnip, 81 ; plant Peas, 83 ; Pota- toes, 85 ; Sweet Potatoes, 86 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; plant Rocambole, 89 ; Rhubarb, 90 ; Salsify, 92 ; Scorzonera, 93 ; Sea Kale, 94 ; sow Skirret, 97 ; Spinach, 99 ; Tomato, 101, 112, and 136; Turnip seed, 104; Turnip-rooted Cabbage in varieties, 5& ; make Hop plantations, 139. Sow the seed of Angelica, Anise, Basil, Burnet, Boreage, Caraway, Chervil, Clary, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Pot Marigold, Sweet Marjoram, Patience, Dock, Sorrel, Summer Savory, Small- age, Thyme, Bene, Boneset, Catnep, Celandine, Saffron, and such other Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs as may be required. Also separate and transplant all kinds of Pe- rennial Herb roots, such as Mint, Pennyroyal, Sage, Winter Savory, Tarragon, and Medicinal Herbs in general, as de- scribed page 106 to 108. If not done last month, attend to the spring dressing of Artichoke beds, 33 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhubarb, 91 ; Sea Kale, 95. Besides the work of sowing and planting the various kinds of seed above enumerated, all the strongest plants of Cab- bage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce, must be taken from the hot- beds and frames, and transplanted into the regular beds in 154 RIONTHl-Y CALENDAR. the open garden. Attend to such other business in this dfi- partnient as may have been left undone hist month, and see that the garden be kept neat and free from weeds. MAY. " Much dew on the grass portends, as all say, That day which succeeds will be a clear day ; But when no dew moistens the grass on the plain, Kind Heaven requites it by sending it rain." As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn damp litter, stubble, leaves, weeds, &c., near fruit trees, and sow ashes over the ground. Attend to plantations of Cabbages, Cauliflower, &c. ; hoe them frequently, and draw earth to their stems ; look out for and destroy grub worms, caterpillars, and other insects, 18 to 21 ; thin out the early plantings of Beets, Carrots, Parsnips, Salsify, &c., and de- stroy weeds, to prevent their seeding the ground. Plant and sow such kinds of seed as were omitted last month ; the sowing of Celery, Leek, Onion, Parsley, Parsnip, Salsify eeed, &c., should be attended to without farther delay. Transplant Cabbage, Lettuce, Tomato, Egg-plants, &c., from the hot-beds and warm borders. Plant Beans, 41 and 42 ; Beet, 44 ; Borecole, 46 ; Brussels Sprout seed, 47 ; Cape Broccoli, 49 ; Cauliflower, 53 ; Cabbage, 55 and 56 ; Car- rot, 59 ; Cress, G4 ; plant Cucumber, 65 ; sow Endive, 68; plant Indian Corn, 70; Melon, 74; Water Melon, 75; sow Mustard seed, 76 ; plant Nasturtium, 76 ; Okra, 77 ; Pepper, 82 ; Peas, 83 ; Potatoes, 85 ; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pum^jkins, 87 ; sow Radish seed, 88 ; Squash, 100 ; Tomato, 101 ; early in this montli finish sowing all kinds of Aromatic, Pot, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 106 to 108. Some of the old hot-beds may be spawned for Mushrooms, but it is best to form new ones. Uncover productive beds once a week. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155 and gather the produce ; clear them of" weeds and wet litter, and put a httle dry hay or straw next the bed. Prepare fresh spawn, &c., 125 to 130. Watering will now frequently be required for newly planted vegetables, both at the time of transplanting, and occasion- ally afterward, in dry weather, until the roots are established in the soil. Likewise seed-beds recently sown, till the young plants become vigorous. Weeding must be veiy diligently attended to, both by hand and hoe ; for as weeds grow luxuriantly, it is necessary to eradicate them before they spread too far, as, by neglect, they will not only impede the growth, but eventually smother the plants. Toward tlie end of the month, top such of the English Broad Beans as may be in blossom, to promote the swelling of the pods, as well as their early maturity. [See page 40.] Those who have young families should not fail sowing some Bene-plant seed, as the plant, by being steeped in a glass of water, produces a glutinous liquid, which is an effi- cacious remedy for the summer complaint. It may be sown in drills and managed the same as salad or Parsley. [See Herbs, 107.1 JUNE. " The sky dress'd in placid soft redness at night Portends the next day will be cloudless and bright ; A fierce angry redness that shoots up at morn, And tinges tlie clouds, is a token of storm." The principal sowing seasons for general crops may be considered as past, but there are many kinds of seed which may be sown this month ; and the gardener should ascertain the success of his former plantings, in order to make up any deficiencies from failures, before the season be too far ad- vanced. By this time some of the early crops will be cleared off, and such ground as was manured for the early crops of 156 MONTHLY CALEiVDAK. Lettuce, Radishes, Spinach, &c., will be excellent for late Beets and Carrots. Hoe and thin out all standing crops, and clean vacant ground, to prevent weeds from running to seed. If the ground be dry, frequent hoeing will be bene- ficial. Use means to destroy insects ; read pages 18 to 21 for information on this subject. Plant Kidney Beans, 41 and 42 ; Beet seed, 44. If the seedling plants of Broccoli, Cau- liflower, Cabbage, &c., failed last month, sow again early this month. AVater the beds frequently, and sow tobacco dust, soot, ashes, &c., or use the liquid recommended, page 19. Transplant Cabbage, Celery, &c., for summer use ; transplant Cardoons, 58 ; sow Carrot seed in drills, 59 ; plant Cucumber seed in hills, 65 ; sow Endive, 68 ; plant Indian Corn, 70; transplant Leeks, 71 ; Okra seed may be planted early in this month, 77 ; plant Peas, if dry weather, soak them five or six hours in water, 83 ; plant Potatoes, 85 ; Potatoes, Sweet, 86 ; Pumpkin seed, 87 ; sow summer Radish seed, 89 ; plant Squash, 100. As the herbs come into flower, they should be cut on a dry day, and spread in a shady place to dry for winter use, 108. Conduct Hop vines to the poles, and when they have reached the top, nip off" the tops to strengthen the stems, 140. Hoe between the Artichokes, and in order to have the main top fruit attain its full size, detach the small suckers, or lateral heads. [See page 34.] Early Cauliflowers, which will now be progressing toward maturity, must be watered in dry weather ; and as the heads begin to exhibit themselves, break down some of the large leaves over them to protect them from the rays of the sun, and from rain, 52. Keep Asparagus clear of weeds, and also Onions ; and give those beds that are to stand for ripening, a final thin- ning, as suggested in page 78. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 157 JULY. " When flowers toward evening their blossoms expand, And bask in the sunbeams, there's no rain at hand ; But when they close up as if conscious of fear, They augur its coming — it no doubt is near." This is a very important month for transplanting Cabbage, Cardoons, Celery, Endive, Leeks, Pepper plants, &c., for full autumn crops. Prepare trenches for the Celery plants beforehand, in order that they may be ready to catch the rain. Leeks may be transplanted in dry weather, by first steeping the roots in mud, and Cabbage plants too, if there be the least moisture in the ground when it is freshly turned over. As grub-worms are apt to devour Cabbage plants early in this month, those persons anxious to transplant any quantity, may dip the roots in fish oil, and then dry them in plaster of Paris, which will not only annoy the worms, but prove bene- ficial as manures, 19 and 20. If transplanting in general be delayed to the middle of the month, grub-worms will be harmless, 55. If Beets and Carrots have failed, the seed may produce good roots by autumn, if planted early in the month; plant Beans, 41 ; Cabbage seed may be sown now for Collards, 57 ; plant Cucumber seed for picklers, 6G ; sow Endive seed, and transplant the former sowing, 68 ; if Peas be planted now, they should be soaked in soft water five or six hours, 83 ; Potatoes may be planted early in this month, 85 ; and Pumpkins, if not done last month, 87. Sow summer Radish seed in drills, 89 ; sow Turnip-rooted Cabbage seed, in varieties, 56 ; this is a good season for Ruta Baga, or Rus- sian Turnip, 105 ; and the common kinds of Turnip seed may be sown toward the end of this month, 104. Attend to plantations of Hops, 140 ; whatever herbs maybe required for wdnter use, should be cut off and dried as they come into flower ; Burnet, Chervil, Fennel, Mint, Parsley, Sweet Mar joram, Tarragon, Thyme, Winter and Summer Savory, may all be cut this month, 106 to 108. 14 158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. The business of sowing and transplanting will be more successful if done in moist or showery weather, or on the approach of rain, or immediately after, especially for preca- rious seed, and young seedling plants. Attend to the Mush- room beds, and give light waterings, or expose them to warm moderate showers occasionally, 130. AUGUST. " When clouds slow dissolve, as if turned into air, And vanish liom sight, the next day will be fair; But when, in succession, Ihey daricer appear, With watery aspect, then know rain is near." The planting season being nearly over, now is the time to hoe around the plants and clear the ground of weeds and stubble. Dig or plough vacant ground ready for fall Tur- nips, Spinach, Shallots, Fetticus, &c. As the ground for the latter crops may require manure, it will be gieatly improved if ploughed before the manure is drawn on, which should be afterward spread and ploughed under. Plant Beans for picklers, 41 ; sow Cabbage seed for Col- lards, 57 ; earth up Cardoons, 58 ; do. Celery, 62 ; sow Corn Salad, or Fetticus seed, 63 ; the early kinds of Cucumber may produce picklers if planted early in this month, 68; ti-ansplant Endive, and prepare to blanch the early plantings, 68 ; sow Lettuce for autumn use, 73 and 125 ; sow Onion seed to stand the winter, 78 ; Peas may be planted thus late, if desired, 83; sow summer Radish seed, 89; prepare for planting Shallots by the end of this month, 97 ; sow Turnip seed for full crops, 104 ; attend to such herbs as were not gathered last month ; cut off and dry Sage, and other late herbs, 106 to 108. Hops will be ripe this month ; choose a dry season for gathering them, and attend to them as direct- ed, page 140 ; this is a good season for preparing to make Mushroom beds, in close sheds, cellars, or pits ; if the mate I MONTHLY CALENDAR. 159 rials be gathered this month, indigenous spawn may be col- lected next, but those that can procure spawn may make the beds at any time, or they may pursue Mr. Nichol's plan, 128. Artichokes will be in perfection this mouth, and should be cut for use as soon as the scales of the head expand, and before they oj3en in the heart for flowering ; and as you cut them, break down the stems to promote the growth of root offsets, 34. In dry weather hoe and plough between such vegetables as may have been planted in rows, which will not only destroy weeds, but encourage the growth of the plants. Frequent hoeing in dry weather will be more beneficial than the watering-pot. Early sown Onions, being now of mature growth, and fuU bulbed, should be pulled up in dry weather and exposed to the sun to rii^en ; frequently turning them, that they may harden equally for keeping ; then clear them from the gross part of the stalks, and loose outer skins, earth, &c., and re- move them to a place of shelter, 78. Continue to gather seed of all kinds as they ripen, and prepare vacant ground for late crops ; such as Spinach, Shal lot, Onion, Fetticus, &c., 98. SEPTEMBER. " Light vapours o'er valleys and rivers at night. Foretoken the next day salubrious and bright ; Especially when they at morning appear To rise up the hill sides, and vanish in air." Although the sowing season is nearly over, the crops ou the ground require attention constantly. Endive may still be transplanted for winter use. Hoe Cabbage and other vegetables, and attend to the earthing of Celery as it pro- gresses in growth. Tie up Endive plants for blanching, 68 ; sow Rape, 47; Cauliflower seed, 51; Cabbage, 54; Coitj 160 MONTHLY CALENDAR. Salad, or Fetticus, 63 ; Cress, Rape, &c., every ten days, for a salad, 64 ; sow Mustard, for the same purpose, 76 ; sow Lettuce, 73 and 125 ; Onion, to stand the winter, 78 ; Radish, for fall use, 89 ; plant Shallots, 97 ; sow Spinach seed every week or ten days, 98 ; Turnips will sometimes come to ma- turity if the seed be sown the early part of this month, and those sown last month will need hoeing as they progress in growth, 104. Continue to gather, dry, and pack Hops as they ripen, 140 ; also all Aromatic, Sweet, and Medicinal Herbs, 108 ; this is a good season to make Mushroom beds in sheltered situa- tions ; they may be spawned with indigenous or artificial spawn, as may be most convenient. [For directions to pre- serve spawn, &c., see pages 126 and 127.] Toward the end of this month, or early in the next, is a good season to increase all kinds of herbaceous plants, by parting the roots, but it should be done in cloudy or wet weather ; at the same time, such herbs as were raised from seed sown in the spring, may be transplanted into separate beds or borders, 106 to 108. In this month must be finished all the principal sowings and plantings necessary this year; on this account such giound as is intended for principal crops next year, should be well manured previous to planting it. [See Spinach, 98.] Cucumber vines should be looked over, and the fi'uit gathered as it becomes fit for pickling, as a very slight frost will destroy Cucumbers, 66. MONTHLY CALENUAR. 161 OCTOBER. " A warm, open winter doth often succeed A hot and dry summer, by all 'tis agreed ; A hard, frosty winter its rigour retains, And holds gentle spring in its cold icy chains." The principal winter crops being planted, it will be neces- sary to prepare for maturing and gathering some of the fall crops. Weed out Fetticus, Spinach, &c. Hoe and earth up Celery ; do it in dry weather, and not even while the dew is on it, 62. Toward the end of the month, frames must be provided for the protection of Parsley, Lettuce, and of such Cabbage and Cauliflower plants as were raised fiom seed sown last month. Begin to dig and secure all kinds of vegetables soon enough to get the whole placed away be- fore the end of the next month. Take up Potatoes and bury them in pits, so as to secure them from wet and frost, or put them in a wai'm cellar. Pi'oceed to take up other roots ; begin with the most tender kinds, or do that which is re- quired to be done in dry weather, while it is so. Collect Pumpkins and winter Squashes, and expose them to the wind and air on a dry bench, or ledge, hefore tliey are stowed away. Dig up Beets, and secure them in pits, or pack them in sand in a cellar. Aromatic, Pot, and Medicinal Herbs, should now have a thorough cleaning and dressing ; by destroying all weeds, cutting away all decayed stalks, digging between such plants as will admit of it, and spreading earth over others, as sug- gested, page 108. Tie up full-grown plants of Endive every week in dry weather, for blanching in succession, as required, 68. Horse-radish may now be dug for use as wanted, by trenching along each row to the bottom of the upright roots, leaving the old stools for future production, 69. Jerusalem Artichokes may be dtig up for use, or to preseiTe for winter consumption, 71. 14* 162 MONTHLY CALENDAR. NOVEMBER. "When ?iuts are but few, and they small and hollow, A cold and wet harvest, there's no doubt, will follow ; But when they are plenty, and Kood, 'tis agreed, .A rich, golden harvest is sure to succeed." Endeavour to avoid having your garden products frozen fast in the ground. Begin in good earnest to secure them ; in fine weather dig up Beets, Carrots, and as many Skirret, Salsify, and other hardy roots as will be required for winter use, and pack them close together in pits ; give them a coat of straw, and afterward heap on as much eaith as will keep out the frost, or stow them in a cellar. Toward the end of the month, Turnips may be secured in the same way. Take up Celery in dry weather, and strike it in close together against a ridge, which should be previously formed in a straight line, about a foot above the level of the surface ; throw up earth from the trench sufficient to cover them about an inch, and then plant row after row as close and upright as it can be placed, with just sufficient earth between every row to keep the roots and stalks from touching each other. The whole being covered up with earth, some long dung or litter may be thrown over it, sufficient to keep out the frost ; and by .heaping a good layer of manure against the last row of Celery, it may be taken out at any time in the winter for use. Some erect a board shed over to protect it from wet ; a small quantity may be kept in a cellar. Cabbage must be taken up and laid in rows against a ridge, so as to form a square, compact, close-growing bed, the roots and stems being buried up to the lower leaves of the Cabbages. The beds may afterward be covered with straw, or a temporary shed may be erected over them. Cabbage will keep for some months in a cellar, if connected with their roots. For the management of Broccoli and Cauhflower, see articles, pages 48, 51, and 120. Borecole, Brussels Sprouts, and Col- lards, may be taken up and stowed away hke Cabbages. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 163 Cardoons may be laid in like Celery, or preserved in sand in a cellar. Leeks may be taken up and laid in rows close together against a ridge, and covered up as far as the low^er leaves. If the last row be protected from frost, by a coat of stable dung, they can be taken out when required for use. Corn Salad, Spinach, and Lettuce, may be protected by a covering of straw, salt hay, or cedar brush. For the man- agement of Artichoke beds, see page 32 ; Asparagus, 37 ; Rhubarb 91 ; Sea-Kale, 95. Dig up roots of Horse-radish in the manner recommended last month, to preserve in sand or pits, for use when the ground is frozen or ice-bound. Do the like by Jerusalem Artichokes, which are now in their full perfection. At the same time take up as many Parsnips and other hardy roots, as will be required for use the next three months. Spread short horse dung over the Onions that were sown in August and September, which will protect them through the winter. DECEMBER. " A wet, sultry summer, prognostics affirm, A boist'rous autumn will bring in its turn ; A cold, sour autumn and summer portend A winter severe from beginning to end." If all was not done as directed last month, there is no time to be lost. Every thing that needs protection should now be attended to, and if the weather continues open, some of the ground may be ploughed or trenched, to receive the benefit of winter frosts. Collect all your Pea-sticks and Bean-poles together, and place them under cover to prevent their rotting. Turn over compost heaps, and provide manure for another year. Those who are desirous of having Cucumbers or Melons early in the ensuing spring, and have not the convenience 1G4 MONTHLY CALENDAR. for forcing tliern in the ordinary way, may dig a few grass sods or turfs, before it freezes hard, and stow them away out of the reach of frost, through the winter. These being placed on the top of a hot-bed, in Marcli, or early in April, with the grass downward, and Cucumber or Melon seed planted in the earthy part thereof, early plants may be pro- duced, which can be removed with the turfs without dis- turbing their growth, and cultivated either on the ridge sys- tem, as recommended in page 132, or in the open ground, provided they can be kept growing in frames until settled warm weather. This is also an excellent plan in early forcing, as it saves trouble as well as risk in transplanting seedling plants into the fruiting beds. If not done last month, dress your Artichoke beds, and cover them as recommended in page 32. Defend Mushroom beds with dry straw, or long stable litter, and cover such as may be exposed, with mats, as security against cold. In all moderate weather duiinsr the winter, jjive air to Cabbasre, Cauliflower, Lettuce, and such other plants as may be in frames, being careful to cover them every night with mats, boards, litter, &c., as necessity may require. As the year is drawing to a close, I would solicit the gar- dener to review the results of his practice throughout the past season, that he may be able to judge how to act for the future. In sketching a plan of his garden for the next year, he ought to make provision for a full supply of such vegetables as are best calculated to sell, and yield a fair profit; with this object in view, I would suggest that he take a retrospective view of his previous management, and also of the directions given in the preceding chapter relative to the preparation ot ihe soil, by ploughing, trenching, pulverizing, manuring, &c., as circumstances may require; bearing in mind, that although clayey soils may be benefited by fall ridging, light sandy ground should lay flat through the winter. YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. PART II. FLOWER DEPARTMENT. CONTENTS. OBSERVATIONS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. On laying out the ground. — Adaptation of each species page. of plants to its peculiar element, - - - - 13 Suggestions for forming a rockery to accommodate planta which originated in mountainous districts, - - 14 The cultivation of annual flowers adapted to Ladies. — In sowing of seed, transj^J anting, watering, and training plants, by tying them to neat poles or rods, or leading them over trellis-work, &c. — Attention directed to grass-walks, lawns, gravel-walks, box- edgings, decayed plants, insects, &cc., - - - 15 INTRODUCTION TO THE CATALOGUK OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. Attention directed to the study of Flowers, with a view to their successful cultivation. — Observations on the germination of seed in different climates. — Estimates respecting annual flowers as regards their growth, time of blossoming, &c., - - - 16 A Catalogue of Annual Flower Seed, - - - ]8 Suggestions for providing bulbous, tuberous, and peren- nial plants, including Dahlias, &c., for early plant- ing. — Also, garden implements, labels, suitable soil, compost, &c., ------ 22 Directions for sowing flower seed in borders, flower- pots, beds, and circles, with notes illustrative of the different plans, - - - - - - 23 Method of securing fragrance to Mignonette, - - 26 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS TO THE CATALOGUE OF BIEN- NIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. On the circulation of the sap in roots and stalks of plants, 28 Frequent renewals of the roots of perennial plants recommended, -------29 A Catalogue of Biennial and Perennial Flower seed, - 30 CONTENTS. Directions for cultivating biennial and perennial flow- pg^^ ers from seed, offsets, layers, cuttings, &c. — Also, for propagating green-house plants, and for arrang- ing intermixed flowers to advantage, illustrated by notes and annotations, - - - - - 33 Introduction to the Catalogue of Floweiing and Orna- mental Shrubs. — Observations on the adaptation of dwarf shrubs for hedges to a flower garden, also on training creepers or climbers to the best advantage, 38 A Catalogue of Dwarf Flowering, and Ornamental Shrubs, --------39 A Catalogue of Climbing Ornamental Shrubs, - - 45 Directions for the propagation of Ornamental Shrubs by various methods, ------ 49 Directions for transplanting, pruning, and training Orna- mental Shrubs, - - - - -- -53 Beauties op April and May — Showing the order of the flower tribe throughout the summer season, with poetic pieces illustrative of the different genera, 54 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS. On the introduction and multiplication of the above de- scription of plants, - - - - - - 63 Bulbous and Tuberous Roots defined — Soil suited to bulbous roots in general, - - - - - 64 Directions for forming the beds to contain bulbous and tuberous roots, also for preserving the bulbs and tubers when in a dormant state, - - - - 65 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS, Practical directions for the cultivation of which will be found under each head. Amaryllis, - - . 67 Ixias, - - 82 Anemone and Ranuncu- Jonquil, - - - 83 lus, - - - - 68 LachenaHas, - - - 83 Crocus, in numerous vari- Lilies, - - 83 ties, - - - - 69 Narcissus, - - 85 Crown Imperial, 69 Ornithogalum, or Star of Colchicum, - - . 70 Bethlehem, - - 85 Cyclamen, 70 Oxalis, - - - 86 Double Dahlia, 70 PiEony, - - - 87 Gladiolus, or Sword Lily, 79 Tulip, - - - 88 Hyacinth, - - - 81 Tuberose, . - 92 Iris, or Flower de Luce, 82 Tiger Flower, - - 93 CONTENTS, Ot OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION OF BULBOUS ROOTS IN POTS AND GLASSES. Caution against over-watering bulbous plants at parti- page. cular seasons, .----..94 On the choice of roots for cultivation in a green-house or light room, -------95 OBSERVATIONS ON THE GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF GREEN- HOUSE PLANTS. The peculiarities of exotic plants defined, - - - 97 Brief directions for the management of green-house plants, 98 Hints furnished by an amateur for the keeping of plants in rooms, --------99 An attempt to prove that Light, Heat, Air, and Moisture are essential to the preservation of plants, and that water should be applied in proportion as heat and air are attainable, - - - - - -100 Suggestions for providing suitable compost, to be used in re-potting the various species of plants, - - 101 Catalogue of Chrysanthemums, with directions for their cultivation, 102 Introduction to the Catalogue of Green-house Plants, wherein the reader's attention is directed to vari- ous subjects, --.-... 103 Descriptive catalogue of the most esteemed species of exotic plants, --.-... 104 OUTLINE OF THE FIRST PRINCIPLES OF HOTICULTURE, ETC., Which embraces much general information under the following heads : I. General nature of VIII. Fruit, - - 131 Plants, - - 120 IX. Seed, - - 133 11. Root, - - 121 X. Sap, - - 134 III. Stem, - 123 XL Ail- and Light, - 135 IV. Leaf-Buds, - - 124 XII. Peispiration, - 137 V. Leaves, - 127 XIII. Cuttings, - 138 VI. Flowers, - 12s XIV. Scions, - 139 VII. Sexes, - 130 XV Transplantation, - 140 COPfTENTS. MONTHLY CALENDAR. January. — Reasons given why temperance in tlie use p„^g. of water should be observed in the cultivation of plants during the winter season. — Directions for regulating the temperature of the room in which plants are kept. — A brick flue recommended for the purpose of heating a small green-house, &;c., - 142 February. — Directions for cultivating Camellias or Ja- pan Roses — Also, for the management of such bul- bous roots as may be in progress of blooming. — Several perennial plants enumerated, which require attention this month. — Information given how to make a hot-bed for the purpose of raising early plants, 143 March. — The Business of this month consists in attend- ing to Monthly Roses, Primroses, Polyanthus, Au- riculas, English Spring Flowers, Schizanthus, &c. — In sowing in hot-beds the seed of Dahlia, Mig- nonette, Primula, and such other species as are designated thus § and thus t in the Catalogues, pages 18 and 30. — The roots of Dahlia, Amaryllis, Gladiolus, Tiger Flower, Tuberose, &c., may be planted in hot-beds, to forward them in growth, - 146 April. — Recommendations on various subjects — as, at- tention to box edgings, gravel-walks, flowering shrubs, herbaceous plants, bulbous rooted plants, Dahlia roots, green-house plants, &c. — It is sug- gested to cultivate all the ground of the garden this month, if possible, and to sow all the different spe- cies of seed that the season will admit of, - - 148 May. — As the warm weather progresses, the gardener is directed to conquer the various kinds of insects — to provide awnings for the protection of choice flowers — to set out green-house plants — and to in- crease their number by propagation from cuttings, suckers, seed, &c., as adverted to in the Calendar, 149 June. — It is recommended to water green-house plants frequently in dry, warm weather, to shade Hydran- geas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c., from the noonday sun — to remove decayed plants, and to replace them with vigorous ones from the imrsery bed — to transplant annual flower plants. Dahlias, &c., 151 CONTENTS. XI fuLY. — The gardener is reminded that this is the proper p^^^ time for pruning Garden Roses, and other plants — Also, for buddina: Oran"-e and Lemon trees — for laying Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, Running Verbe- nas, &c., with a view to their propagation — for destroying weeds, to prevent their seeding in the ground, &c., --..-.. 153 August. — Attention is directed to green-house plants, which will need watering often — and toward the end of the month they will I'equire to be replen- ished with fresh compost, and re-potted. — Also, to the budding of Orange and Lemon trees, if not done last month, ------- 154 September. — It is suggested to take up such tender and half-hardy plants as were placed in the earth of the flower beds in the-spiing, with a view to their being pruned and re-potted. — Also, to plant such bulbous roots as are described in the Calendar, - - 155 October. — In this month the florist is reminded of the importance of housing all tender exotic plants, ten- der bulbous and tuberous roots, &c. — Also, to the planting of the hardy species of bulbous roots, in flower beds, before the approach of severe frost, - l'»6 NovEMBEK. — During the continuance of mild weather, it is recommended to give air at all opportunities to green-house plants. — Also, to place half-hardy plants in frames, and cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, or light litter, with a view to their preservation through the winter, - - - - 157 December. — Constant care and attention is recommend- ed to the situation of green-houses or rooins in which plants are kept, which should be so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the es- cape of warm air in the night season, - - - 159 The Matrimonial Garden, wherein the tempers and dispositions of the mind are compared to plants, which require careful cultivation, - - - 160 OBSERVATIONS THE FLOWER GARDEN. Previous to forming a flower garden, the ground should be made mellow and rich, by being well pulverized, manured, and prepared in every respect as if intended for a kitchen garden. A flower garden should be protected from cold, cutting winds by close fences, or plantations of shrubs, form- ing a close and compact hedge, which should be neatly trim- med every year. Generally speaking, a flower garden should not be on a large scale, and the beds or borders should not in any part be broader than the cultivator can reach, without treading on them : the shape and number of the beds must be determined by the quantity of the ground, and the taste of the person laying out the garden. Much of the beauty of a pleasure garden depends on the manner in which it is laid out ; a great variety of figures may be indulged in for the flower beds. Some choose oval or circular forms, others squares, triangles, hearts, diamonds, t&c, intersected with winding grass paths and gravel walks. In the design of an ornamental garden, nature, however, should be imitated as closely as practicable, not only in the formation and regulation of the flower beds, but in the adap- tation of each species to its peculiar element, soil, and situ- ation, taking into consideration, that the inmates of a garden, constituting as they do a mingled group, collected from all the different climates and soils of the vegetable creation, re- quire each its most essential aliment, to promote a luxuriant growth. 14 onsF.nvATioxs on the fi-owku garden. Neatness should be the prevailing characteristic of a flower garden, which should be so situated as to form an ornamental appendage to the house ; and, where circumstances will admit, placed before the windows exposed to a southern or south- eastern aspect. The principle on which it is laid out, ought to be that of exhibiting a variety of colour and form, so blended as to produce one beautiful whole. In a small flower garden, viewed from the windows of a house, this efl'ect is best pro- duced by beds, or borders, formed side by side, and parallel to the windows whence they ai'e seen, as in that position the colours show to t!ic best advantage. In a retired part of the garden, a rustic seat may be formed, over and around which grape vines, or honeysuckles, and other sweet and ornamental creepers and climbers, may be trained on trellises, which will affbi'd a pleasant rural retreat. In extensive pleasure gi-ounds a rockery, fornied of rough stones, and rich light soil, may be erected in imitation of a mountain, on which may be cultivated various plants natives of mountainous districts, and such indigenous plants as are calculated for the situation ; also herbaceous plants, procum- bent and trailing, such as Mesembryanthemums, Climbing Cordydalis, the various species of Silene or Catch Fly, Gyp- sophila, Lotus, Ricota or Syrian Honesty, Godetia, &c. These being interspei-sed with dwarf plants of different species, as Mountain Lychnis, Violets, Daisies, &c., and so arranged as to cover a great proportion of the rocky surface, must ne- cessarily produce a very pleasing effect. Although the greatest display is produced by a general flower garden, that is, by cultivating such a variety in one bed or border as will insure an almost constant blooming ; yet bulbous looted plants, though essential to the perfection of the flower garden, lose something of their peculiar beauty when not cultivated by themselves. The extensive variety of Inil- bous roots furnishes means for the formation of a garden, the beauty of which, arising from an intei mixture of every variety of form and colour, would well repay the trouble of OBSERVATIOXS ON THE FLOWER GARDEN. 15 cultivation, particularly, as by a judicious selection and man- agement, a succession of bloom may be kept up for some length of time. As, however, bulbous flowers lose their richest tints about the time that Annuals begin to display their beauty, there can be no well-founded objection to the latter being transplanted into the bulbous beds, so that the opening blos- soms of the Annuals may fill the place of those just withered, and continue to supply the flower-beds with all the gayety and splendour of the floral kingdom. The cultivation of Annual Flowers is a delightful employ- ment, and well adapted to the amusement of a lady, who, with the assistance of a labourer to prepare the ground, may turn a barren waste into a beauteous fl.ower garden with her own hands. Sowing the seed, transplanting, watering, and train- ing the plants, tying them to sticks as props, leading them over trellis-work, nnd gathering their seed, are all suitable feminine occupations, and from their affording motives for exercise in the open air, they contribute gi'eatly to health and tranquillity of mind. But the taste of the florist will be exercised to little pur- pose, in the selection of Flowers, if strict attention is not paid to the general state of the garden. If there are lawns or grass walks, they should be frequently trimmed, and more frequently mowed and rolled, to prevent the grass from inter- fering with the flower-beds, and to give the whole a neat, regu- lar, carpet-like appearance. If there are gravel walks, they sliould be frequently cleaned, replenished with fresh gravel, and rolled. Box, and other edgings, should be kept clear of weeds, and neatly trimmed every spring. Decayed plants should be removed, and replaced by vigorous ones from the nursery bed. Tall flowering plants must be supported by neat poles or rods; and all dead stalks and leaves from decayed flowers must be frequently removed. In the summer season, all kinds of insects must be timely destroyed, and in the evenings of warm days, the flowers will require frequent watering. 16 INTRODUCTION CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. To raise your flowers, various arts combine ; Study these well, and fancy's flight decline. If you would have a vivid, vigorous breed Of every kind, examine well the seed : Learn to what Elements your plants belong'. What is their constitution, weak or strong ; Be their physician, careful of their lives, And see that every species daily thrives ; These love much Air, these on much Heat rely, These, without genial Moisture, droop and die. Supply the wants of each, and they will pay For all your care through each succeeding day. WiTU a view to render this work more generally useful and interesting, a classification and definition of the various species and varieties embraced in the annexed Catalogue, are attempted to be given. Precision, however, in the per- formance of this task is impracticable, as it must be evident that the vegetable family, having been collected from every variety of climate and soil, will differ as to height, colour, time of blossoming, and in many other essential points, when cultivated out of their natural Element. Some seed germinate in two or three days after having been deposited in the earth ; others will not exhibit signs of vegetation in as many weeks. These and other distinguish- ing features arise, in a great measure, from their having originated in various soils and climates. Natives of cool or temperate climates and moist soils, are generally tardy in germinating when cultivated in a warm climate and dry soil, for want of a due share of their most essential aliment. Moisture ; and natives of warm climates and light soils require artificial culture in cool seasons and unpropitious climates, in order to their being accommodated with their ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 17 natural anJ most important aliment, Heat. Air also is a more necessary aliment to some species than to otliers, but these three elements collectively, constitute the food of plants in general. It may also be observed that the adaptation of plants to a soil congenial to them is of the utmost import- ance ; as plants will not thrive well when improper food is absorbed by their roots. Under favourable circumstances, annuals, in general, will produce their flower buds within two months frf)m the period of sowing the seed. Some species, soon after exhibiting their brilliant blossoms and ripening their seed, disappear, while others embellish the borders with a succession of flow ers for two or three months. An assortment of seed judi- ciously selected, and sown in due season, will aftord amuse- ment to the cultivator the greater part of a summer, and yield seed for the propagation of the species in succeeding years, if gatlieied when ripe, and carefully preserved. Annual jilants will grow from one to four feet in height, in one unifona soil and situation ; but as these are diversified in almost every garden, no correct conclusion can be drawn in this particular ; an attempt, however, has been made in the annexed Catalogue, to describe the various species as nearly as possible, which may serve as a guide to the gardener in planting ; the most dwarfish being adapted to the fiont or outer edge of the borders, and others in regular gradation. Those species marked thus § are tender. Those marked thus * should be sown in the spot where they are intended to blossom, as they are apt to droop and die by being trans- planted. A few are marked thus t. These, though cultivated as annuals, from their facilities in blossoming aiid ripening their seed the first season, are in reality perennial, as are also some other varieties from warm climates, usually denominated annuals ; but as such could not be cultivated at all by those who have no means of protecting their plants during our severe winters, they may with great propriety be treated as tender annuals, by sowing the seed every spring. 2* 18 A CATALOGUE OF ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. Graines de fleuercs annuelles. 5 Denotes tender. ♦ Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. Feet High. i Ageratum, Mexican, blue, Ageratum Mexicana, 1 to 2 Alkekengi, or Kite Flower, lilac, Atropa physaloides, 3 to 4 t Alyssuin, Sweet, white, A/ys.sum marilinia, 1 §Amaranthus, three-coloured, Amararit has tricolor, 2 to 3 * Argemone, or Prickly Poppy, yel- Argemone, Mexicana, grandi- low, cream-coloured, and white, flora, nchrolenca, etc., 2 to 4 Aster, Chinese and German, white, Aiier,Ckinensis,var.all>a,vvbra, red, striped, purple, &c., striata, purpurea, etc., 1' tO 2 § Balsams ; three species and nume- Balsamina fiortensis, Mastersia- rous varieties, scarlet, striped, pur- na, cornAda, cocdnea, striata, pie. crimson, white, &c. purpurea, alha, etc., lto2 § Bartonia, the Golden, Bartonia aurea, 2 to 3 Bladder Ketinia, buff, dark centre, Hihiscua trinrium, 1 to2 Blue Bottle, Great, Cenfa.urea crjanus, major, 3 to 4 Blue Bottle, Small, Ventaurea cyantis, minor, 1 to 2 Blumenbachia, white, BtumenhacMa in/dgnis, under 1 § Browallia,or Amethyst, blue, white, Browallia elata, alha, etc., 1 to 2 § Cacalia, scarlet, Cacalia coccinea, 1 to 2 Calliopsis ; Drummond's Coreopsis, Calliopsis Brummondii, 2 to 3 Calandrina, Annual, crimson, Calandrina, speciosa, etc., 1 to 2 + Calandrina, rose and purple tinged, Calandrina discolor, etc., 2 to 3 * Candytuft, white and purple, Iberis alba, purpurea, etc., 1 * Catch Fly, purple and red, Silene purpurea, muscipula, etc. 2 to 3 * Catch Fly, dwarf pink, spotted, &c., Silene Arnieria, picta, etc, 1 to 2 * Caterpillars, Hedge-hogs, & Snails, Medicago circinnata.intertexta, curious, scuteUata, etc, lto2 Centaurea, or pink Sultan, Centaurea Americana, 2 to 3 China Pink, of every shade, Bianthus, CMnensi-s, annuus, 1 to 2 § Cleome, rose-coloured, white, &c., Cleome rosea, spinoca, etc., 2 to 3 Chrysanthemum, white, yellow, and Chrysanffiemum coronarium, three-coloured, alha, lutea, tricolor, etc., ' 2 to 3 Clarkia. rose, purple, white, &c., Clarkia clegans,putcfiella,etc., lto2 § Clintonia, elegant blue, Clintonia elegans, lto2 § Cockscomb, crimson and yellow, Celocia cristata, lutea, 2 to 3 § Collinsia. lilac, white, two-coloured, CoUin.sia hetrophilla, bicolor, 2 to3 fCommelina, blue-flowering, Commelina coelest>s, 1 * Convolvulus, dvvar'' -jariegated, &c.. Convolvulus minor, bicolor, etc. 1 to 2 Coreojisis, Golden, 'mrk centre, Calliopsis tinctoria, 2 to 3 § Cotton Plant, cream, Gossypiuir, tierbaceum, 3 to 4 Crotalaria, purple, yellow, and white, Crotalaria verrucosa, etc., 1 to 2 Cuphea, Mexican, scarlet, variegated, Cuphea lanceolata, silenoiMS, 1 to 2 + Dahlia, Mexican, various, Dahlia superflua, 3 to 6 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 19 I Deno!< s lender. ♦ Porcnnifil. * DifTicult to Iransriant. Feet high. Devil in the Bush, or Love in a Mist, Nigella damascena, Hispanica, blue, yellow, purple, white, &c. , orienlalis, sativa, etc., 1 to2 Dwarf Love in a Mist, various, Nigella nana, 1 t Dew Plant, crimson, Mesembrynnthernum glabrum, 1 to 2 t Didiscus, azure blue, Didiscus cceruleus, 2 to 3 § Egg-plant, while, for ornament, Solanuni melongena, 1 to 2 Erissimum, orange, Erissimutn perofakianum, lto2 t Escholtzia, or Chryseis, yellow, red, Escholtzia, crocea, cristata, and orange, Californica, etc., 1 Eternal Flower, yellow, purple, and Xeranthemnm luciduni, var, lu- white, tea. bracleafum, alba, 2 to 3 Euphorbia, variegated. Euphorbia variegata, 2 to 3 •Evening Primrose, dwarf annual, (Enofhera linearis, Driimriiondii, white, yellow, red, &c., tetraptera, micrant/ia, etc., 1 to 2 * Evening Primrose, large yellow, (Enothera grandifiora, 2 to 3 * Evening Primrose, willow-leaved, (Ennt/iera salicifolia, 3 to 4 Feather Grass, Sfipa pinnata, avenacea, 1 to 2 * Flos Adonis.or Pheasant Eye, red, AdoJiis minata, 1 to2 t Francoa, pink and purple, Francaa appendiculata, 1 to 2 §Galardia, orange and crimson, Galardia picta, 1 to 2 Garidella, Nigella like. Garidella nigellastrum, 1 to 2 Gilia, blue, pink, variegated, &c., Gilia capitafa, tricolor, etc, 1 to 2 ^ Globe Amaranthus, crimson, white, Gomphrena glnbnsa, 1 to 2 Grove Love, blue, Nemophila insignis, 1 tGodetia the Twiggy, purple, Gndeiia viminea, 3 to 4 Godetia the Ruddy, annual. Godetia ruhricunda, 2 to 3 Godetia, dwarf, purple, and spotted, Godetia lepida, Lyndleyana, etc, 1 to 2 * Gypgophila, pink and white, Gyps'iphila elegans, viscosa, 1 to 2 Hawkweed, yellow and red, Crepis barbata rubra, 1 to 2 § Hibiscus, yellow, reddish centre. Hibiscus Africanus, 2 to 3 * Horned Poppy, yellow and scarlet, Glaucetim lufeum, phasniceum, 2 to 3 t Hunnemania, brilliant yellow, Hunnf mania famerix, folia, 3 to 4 Hypecoum, three species, yellow, Hypecoum prnciimbens, etc., 1 to 2 § Ice Plant, white, Mesembryanthemum, var. 1 t Jacobea, purple, spotted, &c, Senecio purpurra, elegans, etc., 1 to 2 Job's Tears, gray, Coix lachryma Johi, 2 to 3 Larkspur, dwarf Rocket, white, blue, Delphinium ajacis, alba, caeru- purple, pink, and other colours, lea. purpurea, etc., 1 to 2 Larkspur, branching, various colours. Delphinium consolida, etc., 2 to 3 Lavatera, red, purple, and white, Lava'era, trimestris, alba., etc., 4 to 6 Love lies bleeding, crimson, Amaranthus melanchnlicus, lto2 Lunaria, purple, Lunaria purpurea, lto2 * Lupins, dwarf annual, yellow, pur- Lupinus 7ianus, densijlorus, bi- pie, ros«», two-coloured, &c., color, etc, lto2 Malesherbia. blue, Malesherbia coronata, 2 to 3 * Malope, tail scarlet, &c, Malope grandifiora, etc., 3 to 4 * Malope, dwarf crimson, rose, Malope Irifida, malacoides, 1 to 2 Marigold, African, yellow, orange, Tagetes erecta, 3 to 4 20 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. i Denotes leiidiT. * i'(;rei!iiiul. Marigold, Freiicli, variegated, MaiiiTokl, sweet, yellow striped, 4 Mari-told, Fi^, yellow, ?.Iartynia, ov Cuckold's Horn, t Marvel of Peru, or Four O'Clocks, white, yullow. red, striped scented, •t Miscnoiu'lte. sweet scented, t Monkey Flower, yellow, scarlet, rose. &c , varie;;ated, § Nierembergia, several varieties of various colours. Nolana. in varieties, blue, • Oats, animated, green, i Pansy, or Heart's Ease, purple, blue, yellow, and numerous shades, variegated, Pentaptes. scarlet, phlox, annuil, rosy red, &C. Pimpernel, blue and scarlet, • Poppy, lar-e white and scarlet, • Poppy, dwarf, scarlet, white, yel- low, striped, Persian red, &c., Portulaca, two var., purple, scarlet. Prince's Feather, crimson. Rocket Candytuft, white, &c.. Rose Campion, annual, dwarf red, purple, white, slrijjed, &c. Salpiglossis. variegated, purple, &c., Saphonaria, or Silene, rose, •t Schizanlhus, in variety, orange, wing-leaved, &c., § Sensitive Plant, red, Shortia, yellow, § Stevia, Vanilla scented, white Stock niliy, Virginian, lilac. Strawberry Spinach, red fruit, Strephtanthus, rose-coloured. Sunflower, yellow. Sunflower, dwarf, yellow, Sun Rose, spotted, • Sweet Balm, blue, • Sweet Basil, blush, lilac. Sweet Sultan, white, yellow, purple, • Ten Week Stock, scarlet, purple, white, fic, ^ Tobacco in varieties, scarlet, yellow, Touch me not, yellow, [&c.. Trefoil, crimson and scented, Difliriiil to tiuiiaplant Feel high. Tagetes palula, 2 to 3 Calendula nfficinalis, 1 to 2 Mesemhryanthemuin annuus, 1 Mar/ynia proboscidea, 2 to 3 Mirabilis jalapa, luiea, rubra, striata, loti^ijlora, etc., 2 to 3 Reseda odurata, under 1 Miinulus -mosckattis, cardinalis, rivularius, rosetts, etc., 1 to 2 Nierembergia intermedia, viola- cea, Phoenicia, etc., 2 to 3 Nolaiiap'tradjixia,prostrata,etc 1 to 2 Avena sensifiva, 3 to 3 Viola tricolor, grandiflora, atrn, purpurea, ccerutea, lutea, etc., tinder 1 Pentaptes phoRtricia, 1 to 2 Phlox Dnimmondii, etc., 1 to 2 Anagallis indica, arvensis, 1 Papnver somniferuni. coccinea, 3 to 4 Papaver rhceas, nudicale, Persi- cum, rubra, striata, etc., 1 to 2 Portulaca splendens, coccinea, 1 Amaranthns fiypocondriacus, 2 to 3 Iberis coronaria, etc., 1 to 2 Agrostemmacceli, rosea, githago, lacta, etc., 1 Salpiglossis, atro purpurea, 2 to 3 Saphonaria vaccaria, 2 to 3 Schizanthiis retusus, pinnatus, obtusifolia, etc, 1 to 2 Mimoso sensifiva, under 1 S/iortia Californica, 1 to 2 Stevia serrata, 1 to 2 Malcomia maritima, 1 Blitiim copitatwn, 1 to 2 Strepianthus obtu.iifolius, 2 to 3 Helianthus annnus, 6 to 8 Hrtianifius jninrn", nanus, 2 to 3 Helianthemum gutlatuni, 1 to 2 Melissa odnratum, 1 to 2 Ocynium basiliacum, 1 to 2 Cenfaurea mosc.hata, etc., 1 to 2 Mathiola annua varieties grce- ca, tenella, etc., \ to 2 Nicotiana, fabacum, rustica, 3 to 4 Noli mi tangere, i Trifolium incarnatum, tie, 3 to 4 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 81 5 Denotes tender. * Perennial. * Difficult to transplant. Feet high. • Vcnus's Looking-GIass, lilac, Campanula speculum, 1 to 2 Vesicaria, in varieties, yellow, Vesicaria grandiflora, etc., 2 to 3 + Verbena, in varieties, scarlet, rose, Verbetia aubletia, bonariensis, blue, lilac, pink, &c., Brummondii, pulchella. etc., 1 to 3 Zinnia, scarlet, yellow, violet-colour- Zinnia coccinea, latea, grandi- ed, red, &c., flora, rubra, etc., 2 to 3 The following are climbing and trailing plants, which should be planted in situations where they can be supported by poles, twine, or trellises. The tallest growing vines and creepers are best adapted to the covering of arbours, to create shade, or conceal any unsightly object ; the procumbent trailing and low climbing plants, such as the Nasturtium, Loasa, Petunia, Sweet Pea, &c., may be trained on trellis-work of an ornamental form, as that of a fan, balloon, or pyramid, which should be on a scale corresponding to the situation and extent of the garden. Feet high. Balloon Vine, or Love in a Puff, Cardiospermum halicacabum,over 10 § Balsam Apple and Pear, Momordtca balsamina, over 10 Bean Hyacinth, white and purple, Bolichns alba, purpurea, over 10 § Bean, scarlet flowering, Phaseolus rnultiflorus, over 10 Bean, Castor Oil, or Palma Christi, Ricinus communis, 5 to 6 § Cypress Vine, scarlet and white, Ipomaea coccinea, alba, over ]() Gourd, Mock Orange, in varieties, Cucurbita bicolor. aurantia, over 10 Gourd, the Bottle, in varieties, Cucurbita lagenaria, eicvata, 10 ^ Loasa or Chilian Nettle, orange, Loasa latcritia.aurantiaca, etc., Z to 6 Maurandia, blue, Maurandia Barclayann, over 10 ^ Morning Glory, scarlet striped, &c., Ipomoea coccinea, striata, etc., over 18 Morning Glory, of the Convolvulus Convolvulus major, purpurea, tribe, purple, striped, yellow, pink, cngrulea. striata, lutea. incar- white, &c., nata, alba, etc., over 10 Nasturtium, orange and crimson. Tropoeoliim atrosanguineum, variegated, nana, etc., 4to6 ^Thunbergia. wing-leaved, purple, Tfiun'>ergia alata, etc., 4 to 6 + Petunia, purple, white, rose, &c., Petunia nyctaginiflora, etc., 2 to 3 Sweet Peas, various complexions. Laffiyrus odoratu.i, var. alba, white, purple, red, rose, striped, &c purpurea, rosea, striata, etc., 3 to 4 As many city gardens are so limited as not to admit of an extensive assortment of flowers, a select list may be made from the above catalogue, to suit the taste of such as may be so situated; and amateurs, who cultivate on a larger scale, 22 ANNUAL FLOWKR SLF,D. can oLtain such additional sorts as may be desired at the different seed stores, under their various names. Previous to providing annual flower seed, the cultivator should lay out a plan of his garden, and in making allotments of ground for any particular purpose, provision should be made lor a select assortment of such bulbous, tuberous, and perennial plants, as may be deemed most worthy of attention, not forgetting to leave room for some of the choicest varieties of the Dahlia, the qualities of which will be described hereafter. Another consideration is, to have at hand sviitable imple- ments, so that the work may be performed in a skillful man iier-, and at the proper season. A spade, rake, hoe, trowel, drilling machine, and pruning knife, may be deemed essen fial; and in order to have the beds laid out; with the edges straight and even, a garden line should be in readiness. If labels should be required, they may be made of shingles, which being split into strips about an inch wide, and sharp- ened at one end, will serve for marking distinct kinds, either in pots, or on the borders. In order to have the names or numbers written in legible charactei's, the labels should be painted on the smooth side with white lead, and then marked with a black lead pencil before the paint gets dry ; inscrip- tions made in this way will be as durable as the label itself. The next, and perhaps the most important consideration, is, to have the ground in good condition to receive the seed. In order to attain this desirable object, let some good rich compost, or very old manure, be provided and well mixed with the soil ; dig it a full spit deep, pulverizing every parti- cle. It would be an advantage if the gi'ound could be dug to a great depth at the clearing up of winter, and then again at the period of sowing seed in the Spring : " I come, I come — ye have called me long — I come o'cj the mountains with ligiil and song ! Ye may trace my steps o'er the wakening earth, By the winds which tell of the Violet's birth, By the Primmse-stars in the shadowy grass. By the green leaves opening as 1 pass." ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 23 A mellow loam, which is a medium earth between the extremes of clay and sand, enriched with pulverized manure or compost, is adapted to the generality of flowering plants ; ground, however, of a boggy nature, composed of black earth, decayed leaves, &€., and in a low situation, is essen- tial to the luxuriant growth of amphibious plants, as Water Lilies, Iris, Lobelia, and the like ; but as the cultivator has not always a choice, he may select such plants only as are most congenial to his peculiar soil and situation. Previous to digging flower beds or borders, care must be taken that they are so arranged that the ground may be a little elevated in the middle; this is essential to the draining off of a redundancy of water, as well as to the exhibition of plants to the greatest possible advantage. All kinds of annual flower seed may be sown in the months of April and INIay, on borders or beds of pulverized earth ; the beds should be levelled, and the seed sown either in small patches, each kind by itself, or in drills, from an eighth to half an inch deep, according to the size or nature of the seed. Lupins, Peas, &c., should be planted about half an inch deep. Those who would have their plants flower early, should sow the hardy kinds the last week in March, or early in April Those varieties marked thus t, and thus §, may be sown in boxes, or pots of light earth, at the same time. These, if exposed to the sun every day, and sheltered in cold nights, will be forwarded in growth, and be fit to trans- plant early in June. Those marked * may also be sown in small pots ; and as these plants Avill not bear transplanting, they should be turned out of the pots with the balls of earth entii'e, and placed in the ground where they are intended to flower ; or, if the seed be sown in a bed with other kinds, they should be carefully transplanted with a trowel, without disturbing their roots. The most eligible way to obtain early flowers is to prepare a slight hot-bed for the tender kinds, (see Calendar for Janu- ary,) and either plunge the pots therein up to their brims, 21 ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. or SOW the seed in the earth in shallow drills, not more than a quarter of an inch deep. It may be necessary to state, that although, in favourable seasons, flower seed in general will come up in from one to three weeks after it is sown, the seed of the Cypress vine will not grow until settled warm weather, unless in a hot-bed ; it should be soaked for about half an hour in moderately warm water, previous to being sown. If some of the hardy annuals be sown in September, they will glow \drge enough to survive the winter, if slightly covered with straw or litter; and if plants thus raised be transplanted early in the spring, they will produce very early flowers. The following are some of the hardiest : Alyssum, Sweet. Evening Primrose. Coreopsis, or Calliopsis. Larkspur, in varieties. China Aster, in varieties. Pansy, or Heart's Ease. Catch Fly. Poppy, in varieties. Chrysanthemum, in varieties. Rocket Larkspur. To prevent disappointment, I would recommend that great care be taken to keep the seed beds as clear from weeds as possible. It cannot be denied that young plants are apt to get smothered, and sometimes pulled up with weeds. To obviate this, I would suggest that the seed be sown in shallow drills, each kind by itself, and that an account be kept of the contents of each drill in a book ; also of all seed that are sown at diiferent times ; and by being particular in the dates, you may always know when to expect your plants to come up. Those persons totally unacquainted with plants, will, by ttiis means, be enabled to identify each particular kind, and thus become familiarly acquainted with them.* In order * Lest tlie reader should think tliat the author is here shifting his own duty and responsibiMty on the cultivator, it may be necessary to observe that a definition of all the peculiar qualities, forms, attitudes, and habits of growth, of the numerous species and varieties of plants embraced in an extensive catalogue, with minute directions for the most appropriate culture of each, would alone occupy more space than is allotted to this treatise ; and tliat to expatiate on all the various features of the floral kingdom is a ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 25 that this may be rendered -j^lain to my readers, I shall adopt the following plan of entry of six kinds sown in pots, and six in the open ground : April 20, sowed flower seed in pots. Pot marked A, or 1, Amaranthus tricolor. " B, or 2, Balsamines. " C, or 3, Cockscomb. " D, or 4, Egg Plant. " E, or 5, Ice Plant. " F, or 6, Migiionette. These pots may be either marked with letters oi figures on the outside, to answer with the book, or notches may be cut in wood, or other labels affixed to the pots, and entered accordingly. A pril 30, sowed flower seed in drills, as unaer : No. 1, Bladder Ketmia. " 2, Coreopsis Tinctoria. " 3, Yellow Eternal Flower. " 4, Globe Amaranthus. " 5, Princes' Feather. " 6. Larkspur, branching. If these numbers be continued to 100, or even 1,000, there can be no mistake, provided the rows are all marked accord- ing to the entry in the book ; or if No. 1 be noted, plain sticks will answer afterward, if one be stuck at each end of every row. In this case it would be well to leave a space every ten or twenty rows, and note the number of rows ; by this means, they can be more easily traced. task which no author has ever attempted ; nor can any library be found containing such a desideratum. The cultivator of a small garden may, however, by means of a memo- randum book, describe the peculiarities of such plants as come under his special care, as upright, procumbent, trailing, climbing, bushy, slender- stalked, herbaceous, shrubby, &c., and thus learn how to cultivate and arrange the same, or similar plants, advantageously in succeeding; years ; and it must be admitted that a few flowers, selected so as to harmonize in their colours and habits of growth, cultivated with precision, as respects soil and situation congenial to them, and trained and pruned into regular and compact shapes, will yield more pleasure and amusement than three times the number taken promiscuously and cultivated under one uniform treatment, as is the general, though not most judicious, practice 3 26 ANNUAL FI.OWRR SEED. Some species of Dwarf Annuals, such as Sweet Alyssum, Candytuft, Clarkia Pulchella, Mignonette, Pimpernell, and such others as grow not over a foot in height, may be culti- vated in small beds, either separate or two or three kinds mixed together. Clarkia Pulchella suits very well with Mignonette, as it will thrive in moderately poor soil, which is the best adapted for that plant when fragrance is an object.* The best way to manage the mixed species, is to level a narrow border of rather poor soil, and sow it all over with Mignonette, then with Clarkia Pulchella; when the plants are up, both kinds should be thinned out equally, so as to leave the plants from one to two inches apart all over the bed ; these, when they come into blossom, will form a rich mass, and have a very pretty effect, the bushiness of the Mignonette hiding: the naked stalks of the Clarkia. The White Alyssum and Purple Candytuft form a pleasing con- trast when mixed in equal proportions, and also the Dwarf Gilia and Blue Pimpernell. The new species of Dvvaif Annual Phlox, {Phlox Drum- mondii,) is described in a London Magazine as a splendid sight when cultivated in a bed. " Every flower, though of the deepest carmine, has its petals of a pale blush colour on the under side, and every petal, though of the palest pink, has a dark carmine spot at its base. Thus the variety of colours displayed in a bed of these flowers, almost exceeds description ; and when they are seen under a bright sun, and agitated by a gentle breeze, the effect is extraordinarily brilliant." When seed are intended to be sown in patches, which is often done for want of an unoccupied border, the best way * The reason that some Mignonette has scarcely any scent is, because the soil in which it is cultivated is too rich ; and this leads me to remark farther, that what some call Tree Mignonette, and admire on accx)unt of its fragrance, is not a distinct variety, but the ordinary kind, cultivated as a perennial plant. It may be propagated by cuttings, and' trained so as to form a tree ; which being transplanted into poor ground, will yield more frasrancc than when grown as an annual in a ricli compost. ANNUAL FLOWER SEED. 27 to peTform this business is, after having pulverized the soil, to impress circular drills in the surface with the rim of a flower pot, w^hich may be large or small, according to fancy. By sowing seed in such circular drills, the plants can be more easily traced than when scattered promiscuously over the ground, and the weeds can be destroyed with less risk and trouble. Such kinds as are marked in the Catalogue thus * may remain as sowti, or, if parted, they should be removed with a scoop trowel in a careful manner, in small tufts ; and this business, as well as transplanting in general, should always be done immediately preceding or after rain, and in cloudy weather.t Herbaceous plants in general will not flower well if gi'own in clusters ; they should, therefore, be thinned or trans- planted into the regular beds, at all favourable opportunities, after they get about an inch in height ; and as there is always a risk of some plants not taking root, it is safest to plant a few of each sort every time, taking care to diversify the colours, and also to leave a few plants in the seed beds, for the purpose of substituting in the room of such plants whose period of flowering may be over ; as is the case generally wdth early Perennial plants and bulbs, at about the season that the last of the Annuals are fit to remove. The transplanting may be done with a small trowel, or a neat dibble made for the purpose. t The risk and trouble of transplanting may be avoided by adopting the fol- lowing method of sowing the seed. Take a dollar package of twenty varieties, and number the bags from one to twenty ; then sow a circle from each bag in tlie order in which they are numbered, and insert a short stick in the centre of each circle as a mark. By this method the twenty varieties are distributed along the border in succession, and as each bag will be sufficient for three circles, sixty circles, or three assortments of twenty varieties, may be sown in three different aspects of the garden, which will not only give the various flowers the best possible chance with regard to exposure, but show the varieties to the greatest possible advantage. By preserving the bags, the mere novice, by referring to the name and number on each, will become acquainted with the different varieties, from the order in which they stand in his garden. This system may be practised to advantage either oji n large or small scale. 28 PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS TO THE CATALOGUE OF BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED. The remarks preceding our Catalogue of Annuals will, with few exceptions, apply to that of Biennials and Peren- nials; and it may be obsei-ved farther, that the circulation of the sap in the roots and stalk of plants is influenced by like causes, and subject to the same vicissitudes, as the germin- ation of seed, which principle is exemplified by some plants of various species putting forth their leaves and flowers at a later period than others in the same location, as if waiting for nature to replenish the earth with food adapted to their respective requirements; which, by the gradual changes from cool to temperate, and from that to wann weather, is effected to that degree as to enable all the various species of plants, collected from every climate and soil under the sun, to reward the industrious cultivator by a gradual exhibition of their fasci- nating blossoms, and a distribution of their odoriferous sweets, throughout the three propitious seasons of the year, i. e.. spring, summer, and autumn. In distinguishing between Biennials and Perennials, I have only marked such as are apt to die after once blossoming, and which can only be renewed from seed. Some of thi:»se species, frequently classed with Biennials, as Jquilegia oi Columbines, Bianlhiis, &c., are in reality Perennial, and may be easily perpetuated from year to year, by suckers, lay- ers, or any of the ordinary methods of propagation; and here I would observe, that frequent renewal of the roots of Per ennials is absolutely necessary to their prospeiity or very existence; and also that many species are by nature best BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 2^ adapted for propagation at the footstalks, from ilieir yieMing little or no seed at the top of the plant. This is particularly the case with choice double-flowering plants, the roots of which, in many cases, constitute the seed; these, consequently, must be perpetuated by root offsets, cuttings, &c. The annexed Catalogue embraces a great proportion of the most desirable of what are termed fibrous-rooted heiba- ceous plants ; the seed or roots of which may be obtained at seed stores and nurseries. The estimated height applies to plants of a year's growth; some will arrive to more than three times that height when cultivated in a greenhouse, and even in open ground culture tlie same plants will vary con- siderably, according to the soil or situation in which they are grown ; the specified height however, although unavoidably imperfect, may serve as a guide to the gardener in arranging his flower beds. Those marked thus t, being tender and half hardy, will need protection in the winter; those marked thus || are Biennial; those marked thus* yield little or no seed. There are also many other species of which the seed is un- attainable, from its being suffered to scatter by the wind, and in some cases, from the climate being unfavourable to its ripening; these, as will be shown hereafter, may be perpetu- ated by other methods. 3* 30 A CATALOGUE BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWER SEED Graines de jleurs bisannnellcs et vivaccs. t Denotes tender. D Bienniul. Seed unattainable. Adonis, Spring-flowering, yellow, Alpine Columbine, purple, Alyssum, yellow, Asclepias, oraiitce, purple, &c., Asiatic Globe Flower, yellow, tAuricuia, variegated, tBalni of Gilead, fragrant, Bee Larkspur, blue and brown, Bergamot, crimson, blue, *tCanary Aster, purple, fCalceolaria, various colours, Campanula Peren., blue, white, &c., HCanterbury Bells, blue, white, tCaper Tree, green, Cardinal Flower, in varieties, scarlet. Cassia, Maryland, yellow, tCarnation Pink, various colours, ♦fCelcia, red and yellow, variegated, Chinese Imperial Pink, variegated, tChinese Primrose, lilac, white, fCistus, yellow, f Clandanthus, white, fClerodendron, scarlet, Clove Imperial Pink, crimson, fColutea, scarlet, •Coreopsis, Perennial, in varieties, yellow, •fCoronilla, yellow, •Coronet, or double Lychnis, scarlet, llClary, purple-topped. Columbine, various colours, *t Daisy, Garden, various colours. Dragon's Head, bluish pink. Dragon's Head, purple and striped, European Globe Flower, yellow, llEvening Primrose, yellow, Eupatorium, blue, white, JFox-glovc, purple, white, Feet high 2 to 3 1 to2 1 2 to 3 3 to 4 under I 1 Adonis vernalis, Aqnilegia alpina, Alyssum saxatile, Asclepias incarnata, etc., Trollius AsUiticus, Primula auricula, Dracncephalum canariense, Delphinium elutum, Monarda Kulmiana, didyma, Cineraria amelloides, Calceolaria variabilis. Campanula penicafolia, etc. Campanula medium, Euphorbia lalhyrus, Lnhelia curdinalii, etc-, Cassia Marylandica, Dianthus caryophyllus, Celciu orientally, Dianthus Chinensis, Primula Chinensis, Cistus guttatus, Clandanthus arabicus, Clerodendron speciosum, Dianthus hortcnsis, Sutherlandia frutescens, CaUiopsis grandiflora, lanceola- turn, auriculata, etc., 2 to 3 Coronilla glauca, 2 to 3 Lychnis cor unat a, 2 to 3 Salvia sclara, 1 to 2 Aquilegia vulgaris, 1 to 2 Bellis pcrennis, hortensis, under 1 Dracocephalum Virginianum, 3 to 4 Dracocephulum arguminse,etc. 1 to 2 Trollius Europceus, 2 to 3 Q^nolhera bienni^s, 3 to 4 Eupatorium cerulea, etc., 2 to 3 Digitalis purpurea, alba, 3 to 4 4 to 6 2to3 I 2 to 3 2 to 3 2 to 3 2 to 3 3 to 4 3 to 4 1 to 2 1 to 2 1 to 2 under 1 1 to 2 2 to 3 4 to 5 lto2 2 to 3 BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL FLOWERS. 31 * Denotes tender. n Biennial. * Seed unattainable. Feet high. Fraxinella. red, white, Bicfaninus rubra, alba, 1 to 2 Gentian, purple, yellow, white, Gentiana purpurea, luiea, etc-, \ Gentian, porcelain-flowered, Geniiana adscendens, 2 to 3 fGeranium, various colours. Pelargonium zonule, 2 to 3 Globe Thistle, purple, Echinops sphoerocephalus, 2 to 3 +Hepatica, blue, pink, Aneninne hepatica, under 1 HibLscus, pink, white, purple. Hibiscus palustris,speciosus, etc 3 to -i Hollyhock, Antwerp, China, and Althea rosea Chlnensis, Anglica, Rnglish, of various colours, etc., 4 to 5 j|Honesty, or Satin Flower, blush, Lunaria biennis, 2 to 3 flndian Shot, yellow, scarlet, Canna Indica, lutea, coccinea, 1 to 2 t|| Ipomopsis, scarlet, Ipomopsis elegans, 3 to 4 Ivy-Ieaved Toad Flax, pink, Lunaria, cymbaluria, 1 to 2 Jacob's Ladder, blue, Polemunium ceruleum, 1 to 2 t Jerusalem Clierry, red fruit, Solanum pseudo, capsicimi, 2 to 3 Larkspur, Perennial, purple, pink, Delphinium grandifiorum, pe- white, &c., rennis, 2 to 3 *Liatris, long spiked, purple, Liatris spicata. elegans, etc., 3 to 4 *Lily of the Valley, white, Convallaria majalis, 1 +Lotus, brown, Lotus jacobeus, 2to3 tLisianthus, scarlet, Lisiantfius Russellia7ius, 2 to 3 tLupin, Perennial, blue, white, Lupinus perennis, mutabilis, changeable, &c., variabilis, etc., 2 to 3 •Lychnidea, or American phlox, lilac. Phlox puniculata accuminata purple, red, white, &c., pyranddalis, odnrata, etc., 3 to 4 *Lychnidea, early, pink, &c., Phlox subulata, stolonifera, etc. 1 to 2 *Lychnis, Mountain, variegated, Lychnis Alpina, 1 to 2 Lychnis, scarlet. Lychnis C/ialcedonica, 3 to 4 London Pride, variegated, Biunthus deltoides, 1 tMesenibryanlhemum, variegated, M^senibnjanthemum acinaci.- yellovv, white, purple, &c., forme, spectabile, tricolor, etc., lto2 *tMexican Sage, scarlet. Salvia splendens, 2 to 3 Monk's Hood, white, blue, &c., Aconitum album, versicolor, etc. 4to6 Monkey Flower, yellow, purple spots, Mlmulus ringens. luteus, etc. 1 to 2 tOleander, pink, white, Nerium Oleander, 2 to 3 *rardanthus, Chinese, orange, Pardanthus Chi/tensif May, they will not only tend to ornament the garden by their diversity of foliage and blossom, but the roots will receive a more uniform supply of moisture, than if the pots were exposed to the sun and wind : care should, however, be taken to give the different species a situation suitable for them. Hydrangeas, Primulas, Daisies, Olean- ders, Camellias, China Roses, and half-hardv iilants in gene- ral, thrive best in a moderately shaded situation, ijreraiu- ums. Jasmines, Heliotropes, &c., may be plunged in a sunny situation, provided they be regularly supplied with water. Many species planted for ornament in the flower borders, may at the same time be propagated by layers. The Fuchsia ;^^ BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. . ' , drop, Passion Flower, Heliotrope, Carnation, Petu- ttia, running Verbena, &c., will, if layed in June or July, exhibit their blossoms in perfection, and yield young plants, which being jjreseived through winter, may be used to re- plenish flower-beds the ensuing spring.* * In some countries the wealtiiy liave changeable flower ganlens, which ire so arran^red that their productions can be chans;ed at pleasure, so that vhcnever any plant, or group of plants, begins to decay, it can be removed, ind its phicc supplied by olhers coming into bloom. To effect this, a largo reserve-nursery is re()uisite, in which the plants must be kept in pots, and removed and piuiified in tiie borders as wanted. Sir W. Chambers informs us that the Cliinese excel in this mode of pirdening ; and that he lias faiown a mandarin (or noble) to have the whole furniture and st> le of his parterre changed in a single night, so as to present next morning not only a different description of flowers, shrubs, and dwarf trees, but a dilfercnt arrangement of the beds and compartments. Something of the same kind is practised in the gardens of the Tuileries, in Paris ; in some of the im- perial gardens at Petersburgh, and in the vice-royal gardens at Monza. (rardens of this description admit of a very perfect arrangement of the flowers, whether in the mingled manner, in select groups, or according to the natural method. It is only with such resources that a flower gar- dener can " paint his way," as Sir W. Chambers says the Chinese artists do, " not scattering their (lowers inciiscriminately about their borders, but disposing of them with gi-cat circumspection along the skirts of the plant- ations, or other places v\diere flowers are to be introduced. They reject all that are of a straggling growth, and of harsh colours and poor foliage, choosing only such as are of some duration, grow either large or in clus- ters, are of beautiful forms, well leaved, and of tints that harmonize with the greens that surround them. They avoid all sudden transitions, both with reiiard to dimension and colour, rising gradually fl-om the smallest flowers to those of the boldest growth; and varying their tints, by easy gradations, from white, straw-colour, purple, and incarnate, to the deepest blues, and most brilliant crimsons and scarlets. They frequently blend several roots together, whose leaves and flowers unite, .ind compose one rich, harmoni- ous mass ; such as the white and purple Candytuft, Larkspurs, and Mal- lows of various colours, double Poppies, Lupins, Primroses, Pinks, and Carnations ; with many more of which the forms and colours accord with each other ; and the same method they use with flowering shrubs, blending white, red, and variegated roses together, purple and white lilacs, yellow and white jasmines, altheas of various sorts, and as many others as they can with any propriety unite. By these mixtures they increase considera- bly the variety and beauty of their compartments. In their large planta- tions, the flowers generally grow in the natural ground ; but in flower gar- dens, and all other parts that are highly kept, they are in pots buried in the ground, which, as fast as the bloom goes oif, are removed, and others are brought to supply their places -, so thut there is a constant succession for almost every month in the year ; and the (lowers are never seen but in fhp height of their beauty." — •Loiulonf EnctfclitpaxHa of Gardeuing. BIENNIAL AND PERENNIAL PLANTS. 37 It may be observed farther, that estabUshed plants will always produce their blossoms earlier and stronger in the spring, than those recently transplanted; it should, there fore, be an object with gardeners to do the business of form- ing permanent flower-beds and of transplanting hardy Peren- nial and Biennial plants, in September or October. The hardy bulbous roots must also" be planted in October or November, which on being properly preserved through the winter, will embellish the parterre in, spring by their early and First Flowers. " First flowers of the spring time; Bright gems of the year. All lovely and blooming, How fresh ye appear ; Springing up in the garden^. The hedge-row and vale; Enriched by the showers. And fann'd by the gale."' In my preliminary obsei-vations, I directed the attention of my readers to some important points respecting walks, edgings, &c. Although box is superior to any thing else for edgings, yet, in extensive gardens, dwarf plants of vari- ous kinds may be used' for such pui-pose. Thrift is the neat- est small evergreen next to box ; but Violets, Pinks, Peri winkle. Pansy, Iris, Stone Crop, or even Parsley, Thyme, Strawbeiry plants, &c., may be used for the sake of diver- sity. These will require frequent watering and trimming, and the Thrift, &c., should be sometimes taken up, divided at the roots,, and replanted. Box edgings will also require frequent pruning and trim- ming ; and once in from seven to ten years the whole may be taken up, divided, and replanted, and the surplus slips may be planted in a nursery-bed, in rows about afoot apart; these will be suitable for making edgings the year following. Flower-beds should be kept free from weeds, and watered occasionally in the summer. In the autumn they should be covei'cd with leaves, straw, or light litter; this should bo 4 38 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. taken otT in tlie spi'ing, and the ground hoed and dressed in such a manner as to enUven the earth around the roots of ike plants, and to give the whole a ueat appearance. FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. Aybrisseaiix d^Oriiemenl. SuRUiiS are so closely connected with flowering plants, and, indeed, so many of them are embellished with flowers, that they may be considered as essential to the completion of an ornamental garden. They are all Perennial, and are divided into two classes, deciduous and evergreen ; the for- mer lose their leaves in the winter, the latter only shed them when others are ready to supply their places. Shrubs are not only necessary to the embellishment of a flower garden, but many kinds are eligible for hedges to it, and may be planted at a trifling expense. These hedges should be frequently trimmed and trained, the sides cut even and the tops sparingly clipped, so as to make them orna- mental as well as useful, and also to increase the vigour of their growth. When hedges become open or naked at the bottom, they should be plashed down ; this is done by cut- ting the branches half through near the ground ; they will then bend easily, and may be interwoven with the adjoining branches. When shrubs, creepers, or climbers, are planted against walls or trellises, either on account of their raiity, delicacy, or to conceal a rough fence, or other unsightly object, they requiie different modes of training; some attach themselves naturally, as the Ivy, and merely i-equire to be occasionally guided, so as to cause a regular distribution of their shoots; others must be treated like fruit trees, trained thinly, if blossoms are the object, and rather thick, if the intention be to show the foliage to the greatest possible advantage. FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 39 Ornamental shrubs grow from one foot to twelve or more feet in height ; and where such are planted for ornament, the height of each plant, when full grown, should be considered, and also the mode of growth, that every one may be so planted as to show to advantage, observing that the tall- growing kinds should be planted in the back part of the borders, and those of low growth in front ; but if they are required to be planted in clumps, they should be so arranged as to rise gradually from the sides to the middle, and be afterward neatly trimmed. Shrubs require an annual pruning, at which time, cut out all irregular and supei-fluous branches, and head down such as require it, forming them into handsome bushes. Apply stakes to such as need support, and see that the low-growing ones do not injure each other, or interfere with other dwarf- ish plants near them. Many kinds of shrubs may be raised from seed sown early in the spring, but are more commonly propagated by suckers, layers, or cuttings. Like other plants, they require a good soil, which should be manured every two or three years, and some of the tender kinds should have some pro- tection in winter. The following list, taken from ' The New- York Farmer,' furnished by Mr. Floy, contains the most of those usually planted in gardens and on lawns. These will affoi'd a suc- cession of flowers from spring until autumn, and may be ob- tained at the nurseries at moderate prices. CATALOGUE, &c. Amorpha fruticosa, Indigo shrub, produces handsome bunches of purple flowers in June and July. Amy^i-dalm nana, Dwarf double-flowering Almond ; a very beautiful shrub, about three feet high j blossoms early in April. 40 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. Aralia spinosa, or Angelica tree, about ten fieet high ; flowers in very large bunches, and continues a long while in bljom. Cytisus Laburnum, or Golden Chain*; a most elegant shrub, producing long racemes or bunches of yelltjw floweis in June and July; there are two kinds, the English and the Scotch Laburnum. The Scotch is the largest, forming a pretty large shrub ; the English kind is greener, more com- pact, and by some thought to be the handsomest ; they ought to be in every garden. Calycanilius Floridus, Allspice, or sweet-scented shrub, a native of the Southern States; the flowers are of a very dark chocolate colour, and the fiagrance very much resem- bles jipe stiavvberries ; easily kept when once intioduced. This shrub generally giows about five feet high in gardens, and blossoms from May to August. Ceanothus Americanus, Red Root, or Jersey Tea Tree ; a plant or two in the collection, as it flowers in profusion, is worth having. Cercis siliijuastrwii, or Judas tree. The flowers appear very early in the spring, before the leaves come out, and make a fine appearance ; as it grows rather tall, it is calcu- lated fi)r the back row of the shrubbery. Colutea arborescens, or Bladder Senna, having bunches of yellow flowers in June and July, which are succeeded by seed in a kind of bladder ; calculated for the back or centre row of shrubberies. Crataegus oxyacantha , the Hawthorn. It makes a pretty appearance planted out singly in the back or centre row ; the flowers are very fragrant; it is sometimes called the Pride of May ; the double white, double scarlet, and single scarlet Hawthorn, are very beautiful, and ought to be in every plantation. Hawthorn hedges are much used in Eng- land, where they look very handsome when clipped ; but they do not answer so well in this country, the heat of our summers causing the leaves to fall off" early, often in July; FLOWERIlVa AND ORNAMENTAT, SHRUBS. 41 on that account they are not much used. We have several things which are bettei' calculated for that puipose. Cydonia Japonica, or Pyrus Japonica, a very beautiful scarlet flowering shrub, from Japan. It is found to be very hardy, resisting our most severe frosts ; it flowers very early, and continues a long time in bloom. A second flowering takes place in the latter part of the summer. It is every way a desirable shrub. Daphne mezerion, one of our most early flowering shrubs, which blooms freely in April and May, and is very sweet-scented. It is rather tender in some situations, but will stand our ordinary winters very well in a sheltered situation. Dirca palustris, or Leather Wood ; a pretty little shrub, gi-owing very regular in shape, and has the appearance of a large tree in miniature ; it is a native of our Northern States ; the flowers, which apjjear very early in the spring, are yellow, and come out before the leaves. Gijmnocladus Canadensis, or Kentucky Coffee tree. The berries bear a resemblance to coffee, and are said to be a good substitute for it ; however, it is a beautiful tree, with handsome feathered leaves, and makes a fine contrast with others. It should be planted in the back or the centime of the plantation ; it is very hardy. , Halesia dipiera, and Halesia ieiraptera, two-winged and four-winged Silver Bell, or Snow-di'op tree. They are both natives of the Southern States, but are perfectly hardy hei'e ; our most severe winters do not injure them. The former kind flowers in April, and the latter withholds its blossoms • until May. They are elegant shrubs. Hibiscus Syriactis, fl. pleno, the double-flowering Althea frutex, of which there are several varieties ; the double white, double red, double red and white, and striped, are the most showy ; they begin to flower late in July, and con- tinue until Autumn. The single kind, of which there are many varieties, are scarcely worth cultivating, the double 42 FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. ones being raised quite as easily, and are equally hardy. These are indispensable in every plantation. Hijpericum fvulescens, k>hrubby Hypericum. Tliea'e are several species of this small but beautiful shrub, all natives of the Southern kStates, but perfectly hardy here. They all flower profusely in the summer, and continue for a long time. They should be planted in the front row. Ki'vvinJnponica, or Corchorvs Ja])oitica, yellow. Tapan Globe Flower; although a native of Japan, like many other Ja- panese flowers, it is perfectly hardy here. It flowers in the greatest profusion at all times, except in the very dead of winter, and will grow in almost any soil or situation. A^crJreulc.ria panicul ata, Japan Bladder tree, or Rcelrolerius. This is another hardy shrub from .Japan. It has long race- mes of flowers, succeeded by a bladder-like fruit, and is worthy of cultivation in every good collection. Lis:ustrum vulgare, virens, lai'ge European Privet, a very handsome evergreen shrub, flowering profusely in June, and producing bunches of black round berries. It bears slip- ping well, and is therefore veiy suitable for hedges, or to enclose ornamental plantations. It grows quick, and is well adapted to our climate ; when planted in a hedge-row, and kept clipped. The American Privet makes a beautiful hedge, and ought to be in more general use. Pliiladelphus coroiiarius, or common Syringa, is very orna- mental, producing its sweet-scented flowers early in the spring, and in abundance. Philadelphus inodorous, and P. f^randiforus, Garland Sy- ringa, are both iiatives of the Southera States, but quite hardy here. Their flowers are large, and continue for several months, in wreaths or garlands. They are well calculated for the centre row, and also to hide unsightly objectsy and have a beautiful effect when mixed with monthly honey- Buckles, &c. Persica, or A)mjs;dalus Persica, ji. rosea plena, or double flowering Peach, is very beautiful in shrubberies. It blos- 4* FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS 43 Boms early, and sometimes bears fruit, but it is cultivated entirely for its beautiful blossoms, A few trees of the Chi- nese double flowering Apple [Pyrus spectabilis) have also a beautiful effect. Rhus coliim^, Venetian Sumach, Aaron's Beard, sometimes called fringe ti'ee, is a fine shrub, calculated for the centre •of the clump or shrubbery. Its large branches of fringe remain all the summer, and give it a curious and striking effect. Ribes Jyiissotiriensis, or Missouri Currant ; there are two species of this very ornamental shrub from Missouri, intro- duced by Lewis and Clarke ; they are quite hardy, and flower profusely from April to June. Robinia gltttinosa, and Robinia hispida ; the former a pretty large shrub, producing fine bunches of flowers in great abundance throughout the summei ; the latter is a smaller shrub ; both of them are, however, worthy of a place in large collections. Robinia pstudo-acacia, or Yellow Locust Tree.* This is superior to any other knid of wood for ship-trunnels, mill- cogs, and fence-posts, as well as for various other purposes. Its culture is very easy, and may be propagated in great abundance, by sowing the seed in March, April, or May, in a bed of good sandy loam, which is its favourite soil, and covering them half an inch deep. Previous to sowing, put the seed in a basin, pour on scalding water, and let it stand all night ; pick out such seed as are swollen, and plant them immediately ; next evening repeat the same process with such as did not swell the first night, mix the whole and sow them ; they will come up in the course of the following month numerously ; for no seed grow more freely, notwith- standing what some say to the contrary. When the plants are a year old, transplant them out of the seed-bed into nur- sery rows, four feet distant, and plant from plant one foot. * This tree is introduced here, rather on account of its usefulness than beauty, though the latter is very considerable. 44 FI.OWERINC AND ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. Having had two or three yeavs' growth in these rows, they may be planted successfully in any warm and tolerably rich sandy soil. They may also be propagated by suckers, which they throw up abundantly, especially if some of the wide- extending it)ots be cut through with an axe. An acre of these trees, planted at two feet distant each way, will con- tain 10,890 ; and four feet distant, 2,7*22 ; and it is said that no appropriation of land is more lucrative than that devoted to this purpose. The Three-tliorned Acacia seed [Gltdit- schia) should be prepared in the same manner. Rosa, or Roses, a very numerous variety of these ; some reckon five or six hundred kinds. They are accounted the most beautiful of Flora's productions. Perhaps a handsome collection might be made out of about fifty of the best sorts, which) by taking such quantity, I suppose might be obtained at about fifty cents each, under name ; and generally, a fine collection unnamed at half that amount. No good garden or shrubbery should be without them. Soybus ancKparia, Mountain Ash, or Roan tree. This is a very beautiful shrub of the larger size ; the leaves are orna- mental ; the flowers and fruit, which are produced in large bunches, are beautiful ; the fruit remains till late in the au- tumn. It is a native of Europe. Sorlms Canadensis. This is a native of our Northern frontiers and mountains, but it does not grov/ so large as the former ; the berries are smaller and red, the former larger and of an orange colour ; but otherwise much resembles it. Sparlium junceum, Genlisia, etc. Two or three species of Broom, producing numerous bunches of yellow flowers in May and June ; the Genisla. or Spanish Broom, which has white flowei-s, is also very pretty, but not quite so hardy us the former. SijmpJwvia racemosa, or Snow-berry, sometimes called St. Peter's Wort, a pretty little shrub ; the bunches of wax- like white berries, which it produces during the whole sum- mei", give it a beautiful appearance. CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 4ft Syringa vulgaris, or common Lilac, blossoming in May, is well known to all, and needs no comment. The white vanety is not quite so common. They are only used for outside plantings, as they sucker very freely, and soon make themselves common. Syyinga Persicn, or Persian Lilac, is a delicate low shrub, the flowers very abundant, and the leaves small and delicate. There are two varieties of the Persian Lilac ; the white flowering, and the blue or purple flowering. The Chinese cut-leaved Lilac is very curious ; the leaves are cut like Parsley, the flowers growing in longer racemes than the former. Siberian, or large Persian Lilac. The bunches of flowers are very large, and continue in bloom a long time after the common Lilac. Tamarix Gallica, or French Tamarix, and the Tamarix Germanica, German Tamarix, are two pretty shrubs ; the leaves and branches are small and slender, producing quan- tities of beautiful flowers, which form a very striking contrast to the other parts of the shrubbery. Viburnum opulus, or Guelder Rose, otherwise called Snow- ball, is a very showy shrub, producing large balls of snow- white flowers in May, and is indispensably necessary to every shrubbery. Vitex ag7ius castus, or Chaste Tree, a pretty and singular sbrub, flowering the most part of the summer. CLIMBING PLANTS. Ampelopsis hederacea. This plant, on account of the largeness of its leaves and rapidity of its growth, is well adapted for covering walls. There are several species, all resembling the vine in habit and flower. Aristolochia sipho, Birthwort, or Dutchman's Pipe. A very curious blooming plant, with extiaordinarily large foil- 46 CUMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. age, well calculated for an arbour ; affording a dense and cooling shade. Mragene alpina. A free-growing deciduous shrub, with small pinnated foliage, and large blush-coloured flowers, which continue from May to July. Bignonia crucii^era is a desirable evergreen, being of a luxuriant growth. It will cover in a few years an area of fifty feet, and bloom from May to August ; colour orange. Bignonia radicans, or Trumpet Creeper, produces large bunches of red trumpet-shaped flowers in July and August. Bignonia grandifiora, is much like the former in habit and appearance, but the flowers are much larger. It is said to be a native of China, and the former a native of this country. They are both perfectly hardy, and will climb up brick work or wooden fences, without any assistance. Clematis, or Virgin's Bower. There are several species, some of them tender, or not sufficiently hardy for our severe winters, without protection. The Clemaiis azurea, bicolor, and /lama, are splendid varieties. The Clemaiis Virginica, Viorna, Viticelli, and Vitalba, are perfectly hardy, and blos- som throughout the summer. Glycine Sinensis, or JVisiaria Sinensis, is a handsome Chi- nese Creeper of recent introduction from China, and is not yet common in our nui'series. It is a beautiful vine, running to a great height, and loaded with long racemes of purple flowers throughout the summer. Glycine frutescens, or Wistaria frutescens. This beautiful brother of the Chinese kind is a native of our Southern States, grows much in the same way as the others, and is, perhaps, not inferior. Although this fine creeper has been long known in England, we have not heard much about it by English writers ; the conclusion seems to be, that it does not flower well in England. In fact none of our Southern plants do well in that country, while those from China do very well ; here, however, it is quite the reverse. I have the Chinese Wistaria Sinensis, from fifteen to twenty feet high, CLIMBING ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 47 and the American Wistaria about the same height. The Chinese does not look so vigorous and green as his American brother. The American Wistaria should be planted in every garden with other creepers, or to run up the trees in shrub- beries, according to its natural habit. Hedera Helix, Irish Ivy, is a desirable evergi-een for cover ing naked walls, or any other unsightly object. ■ The leaves are of a lively green, and from three to five angled. There ai'e several varieties of it, all calculated for growing in con- fined, shady situations, where plants in general will not thrive. Jasniinnm officinale, Garden Jasmine. This delicious climbing shrub has from time immemoiial been common in Europe for covering arbours. Its delicate white fragrant flowers render it very desirable ; but it is rather tender for our Northern winters, unless well protected. In the South- ern States, this plant, and also the yellow Jasmine, [revolu- turn,) grow luxuriantly and bloom profusely, and even Jas- miimm grandiflora will endure the winters of South Caro- lina and Georgia. Lonicera, comprehending all the fine sweet-scented honey- suckles. Of the Italian kinds, the monthly honeysuckle is decidedly superior, continuing to flower all through the sum- mer, until late in autumn, and is very fragrant. Some of the other European kinds may be occasionally introduced into large slirubberies. There is a white honeysuckle, lately introduced from France, denominated Hedysarum coronarium, which is in great repute. Two or three American kinds deserve particular notice. Lonicera sempervirens, or Coral Trumpet, monthly honey- suckle, is extremely beautiful, flowering the whole of the summer, with its thousands of scarlet bunches ; it is, how- ever, destitute of scent. Lonicera Fraseri, also an American ; the flowers are like the other kind in almost every particular except colour, tliis being a bright yellow. Lonicera pubescens, or Caprifolium pubescens, a large and 43 CLIMBING OKNAMENTAL SHRUBS. beautiful honeysuckle from the Northwest coast ; the flow- ers are large, and of a bright copper colour, inclining to orange. They are all perfectly hardy. Loiiicera Jlexuosa, Chinese Honeysuckle, of late introduc- tion ; it is perfectly hardy, withstanding our most severe frosts without the least injury ; it is a very sweet-scented honeysuckle, gi'ows rapidly, and to an immense height. It flowers in jjairs and threes all up the branches, covering the whole plant completely with flowers. It blossoms in spring and autumn, and is a very valuable acquisition to our gar- dens and shrubberies. Lonicera Juponica, or Japan Honeysuckle. This bears flowers in great profusion, which are white, afterward be- coming of a light yellow. It is not so hardy as the Chinese, and requires a little protection in the winter. Passiflora, or Passion Vine. Thei"e are several hardy species, but the best is the Passiflora incamala; this, although it dies to the ground every winter, will, during the summer, grow from twenty to thirty feet, and yield abun- dance of beautiful purple flowers. Periplaca groeca, or Silk Vine. A prolific climber, wood slender, twining and elastic, leaves smooth, ovate, lanceolate. Established plants will grow thirty or forty feet in one sea- son, and yield flowers in clusters, of a brownish yellow colour, from May to July. I shall only add to the above, the running kind of Roses ; although there are many other things which might be men tioned Rosa multijlora, from China, is pretty well known, pro- ducing thousands of small double red roses in bunches. It requires a sheltered situation from some of our keen north- westers. Rosa multijiora alba, from the same country, is of late importation, but as it increases readily, may be obtained at about the same price as the former ; the bunches of flow- ers are white. Rosa Grtvillia, a running rose, also from China, the flowers of various colours. Rosa rubij'olia, Rasp- PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS 49 berry-leaved Rose, from our Northern frontiers, and extend- ing over the Western country ; although a single flowering rose, it produces large bunches of flowers, which are differ- ently coloured on the same bunch, exactly like the former China kind, and is another instance of the similarity of the native Chinese plants to those of our country, Rosa caaina, jl. plena, English double Dog Rose, is a very pretty little double rose, and will run to a great height. Rosa Banksii, Lady Banks's double white China running Rose ; it runs up and spreads much : it may be easily known fi'om others of the running roses, by its being entirely desti- tute of prickles. Rosa JS^oisefie, and Champney's, are said to have been raised from China seed in Carolina ; they are not strictly running roses, but as they grow tall, are fine ornaments for the shrubbery, flowering during the whole of the summer and autumn, in large clusters. The Madeira Rose, or double white cluster, musk, flowers throughout the summer and autumn months, and is therefore well adapted for the shrubbery. Rosa Cherokensis, called the Nonde- script, or Georgia Rose ; the flowers are very large, being white, with yellow centre. This is a running rose, growing very high ai'ound trees, &c. Rosa mbiginosa, or Sweetbriar, is too well known to need description. PROPAGATION OF FLOWERING SHRUBS. Flowering shrubs are variously propagated by slips, cut- tings, layers, suckers, buds, or scions ; and these may be thus defined : 1. Slips are simply small branches, slipped down from the side of a large branch, or from the main stem. These should be taken from the parent plants carefully, so as to leave an eye or heel at the lower or butt end. 50 PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 2. Cuttings should be made from shoots or stalks of a prior year's growth ; and such should be selected as are well ripened, having their joints not far apart : they may be cut so as to have three or four joints in each cutting. In some species of succulent plants, the joints being near together, cuttings need not be more than from four to six inches long ; but shrubby plants in general will admit of their being from ten to twelve inches. 3. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing, except that they stiike root into the soil, while yet adhering to the jmient plant. 4. Suckers are in reality young plants, connected to the parent at the root, which should be carefully separated in spiung or autumn, and transplanted in the same manner as plants raised by any other method ; either in a nursery-bed, shrubbery, or flower-bordei'. 5. Scions are of two sorts ; scions properly so called, and buds. A scion is a cutting, or portion of a jalant, which is caused to grow upon another plant, from Avhicli it extracts fluid for the nourishment of its leaf buds ; these thus fed, gradually grow upward into branches, and send woody mat- ter downward, so as to become connected with the stock grafted on. The business of planting shps, cuttings, &c., of the tendei kinds into nursery j)0ts, and the hardy kinds into borders, is generally performed in spiing and autumn ; there are, how- ever, some exceptions to this rule, which will be explained hereafter. [See Calendar and Index.] For the purpose of raising hardy flowering shrubs by slips or cuttings, let a border be prepared in a shaded and sheltered situation, by manuring and deep digging. Provide cuttings about a foot long, and insert them into the ground full one-third of their length ; the rows may be about two feet apart, and the cuttings nine inches from each other in the rows. Press the ground around the stems, and rake it suiuulii. The after management of nursery beds made in PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 51 spring, is to keep them watered in dry weather, hoe them occasionally, and by autumn the cuttings will be rooted. In cold climates, plantations made in autumn should be px'otected by a covering of leaves, straw, or litter, merely sufficient to screen the plants from wind and the sun's rays in time of freezing, the heat of the sun being more destruc- tive to vegetation in winter than the cold weather. To increase flowering shrubs, rose bushes,- or any other plants, by layers, dig the ground about the plants to be ope- rated on to a good depth ; then with a sharp knife cut be- tween two joints half through the stalk or branch on the under part, turn the edge of the knife upward and make a slit, caii'ying it past the first joint half way to the next above; make a hollow in the ground, and insert the cut part from one to three inches deep, according to the nature of the plant operated on, keeping the branch peipendicular, and the slit open. Each layer should be pegged down with a hooked stick, made from small branches of trees, to keep it in its proper ])osition, as well as to prevent the cut part from uniting where the roots form for the young jolants. Budding, grafting, and inarching are often practised on shrubs, with a view to perpetuate improved varieties. Bud- ding may be performed on roses of different descriptions, as the ^\ hite IMoss, Unique, Tuscany, and other fine varieties, upon such wild kinds as are of a strong habit. The best time for performing the operation is toward the end of July or early in August, as the buds are then generally matured so that the bark i^arts freely from the wood, which is essen- tial to the successful accomplishment of the business. Grafting is generally perfonned in the spring. There are many methods practised on trees, as cleft grafting, whip grafting, saddle grafting, side grafting, root grafting, inarch- ing or grafting by approach, &c., which methods are all fully explained under the head of " Budding and Grafting," in the fruit department. I shall, however, here present a short view of the mode best adapted for shrubs. 52 PROPAGATION OP ORNAMENTAL SHRHnS. Scallop budding is performed by cutting from a small stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length, and taking from the chosen twig a thin scallop of wood of the same dimensions; this is instantly applied, and fitted peifectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with bass matting. This may be peiibrmed in spring, and if it fails, it may be repeated in the month of July. The French practise this mode on Roses. The most simple method of grafting is, to cut off the stock in a wedge-like manner ; then prepare a graft having three or four eyes ; proceed to cut a slit in it upward, and thrust it on the stock, taking care to join the bark of each together; tie them firmly together with bass, and immediately cover the grafted part with clay and horse dung mixed ; which being well prepared, should be closed securely round the graft in an oval form. Inarching, or grafting by approach, may be performed as follows : The shrubs to be giafted must be growing very near to those which are to furnish the grafts ; a branch of each must then be prepared by making a long sloping cut nearly to its centre ; the two must be brought together, and secured by a bandage of matting, so that the bark may meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay composition ; and when a complete union has taken place, the plants may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. As the above directions are applicable to the propagation and management of green-house, tender, and hall-hardy plants, as well as to hardy shrubs and vines, it may be ne- cessary here to remind the reader, that delicate roses and half-hardy woody plants left out during the winter, should be protected either by bending d(jwn the brandies and covering them with soil, or by tying them up to stakes, and binding straw snugly around them. At the same time throw some dung on the gi-ound about the roots ; the longest of which may be raked off on the approach of spring, and the shortest 1 PROPAGATION OF ORNAMENTAL SHRUBS. 53 forked in, so as to manure the plants, and thus give vigour to their rising shoots. Deciduous shrubs may be transplanted at any time after they lose their leaves, and before the buds begin to expand in spring, provided the ground can be brought into good condition to receive them ; the holes should be dug capacious enough to hold the roots without cramping them, and some earth, w^ell pulverized, must be thrown equally among the fibres of the roots, which should be well shaken, and the earth trodden down around the plants, until brought to the level required. Evergreens should be removed carefully with a ball of earth connected with their roots, and some good mould should be provided to fill in with. The spring pruning of shrubs and vines should be attended to before the buds begin to rise ; say March in the Northern, and January in the Southern States. In performing this business, use a sharp knife, in order that all amputations and wounds be cut and pared smooth, and in a slanting manner. Divest the plants of all dead wood, superfluous branches, and those which cross each other. Regulate the plantation in such manner, that the natural form and habit of each plant may be retained as much as possible, and train the branches so that the sun can have free access to every part ; bearing in mind the hints thrown out in the Inti'oduction to our Catalogue. Some shrubs and vines will need a summer pruning, merely to thin out young shoots, superfluous wood, &c., and to train straggling branches. o» 54 BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. The following article is subKiittetl, as being well calcu- lated to afford amateurs mental recreation wliile engaged in rural pursuits ; and it is presumed that the practical gar- dener uill not view the insertion of this article as a digres- sion, as it exhibits the beauty and order of the flower tribe in propitious climates, or when cultivated at the proper sea- son, in a truly appropriate and amusing light. APRIL. " Descend, sweet April, from yon watery bow. And 1 hcral strew the ground witli budding flowers, With leafless Crocus, leaf-veiled Violet, Auricula, with powdered cup, Primrose That loves to luric below the Hawthorn shade." It is generally admitted that the month of April gives the most perfect image of spring ; for its vicib-situdes of warm gleams of sunshine and gentle showers,have the most powerful effect in liastening the universal springing of the vegetable tribes, fiom whence the season derives its appellation. Next comes the favourite month of the year, in poetical description, MAY. " For thee, sweet month, the groves green liv'ries wear j If not tlie first, the fairest in the year ; Thou dost alTbrd us many pleasant hours, While Nature's ready pencil paints the flowers." The pious Hervey, in his Meditations on the Flower Gar den, has furnished us many sublime ideas respecting the order, variety, and beauty of the flower tribe.* It is in vain to attempt a catalogue of those amiable gifts. There is an end- * Those who have read Hervey's Meditations on the F"lower fJarden, will discover that the pious author's phraseoloijy. and several of his sublime ideas, are interspersed through this article, which, from being blended with Other matter, could not be designated in the customary way. THE BEAUTIES OP APRIL AND MAY. 55 less multiplicity of their characters, yet an invariable order in their approaches. Every month, almost every week, has its peculiar ornaments ; not servilely copying the works of its predecessors, but forming, still forming, and still executing, some new design ; so lavish is the fancy, yet so exact is the process of Nature. Were all the flower tribe to exhibit themselves at one particular season, there would be at once a promiscuous throng, and at once a total piivation. We should scarcely have an opportunity of adverting to the dainty qualities of half, and must soon lose the agreeable company of them all. But now, since every species has a separate post to occupy, and a distinct interval for appearing, we can take a leisurely and minute survey of each succeed- ing set. We can view and review their forms, enter into a more intimate acquaintance with their charming accomplish- ments, and receive all those pleasing sensations which they are calculated to yield. Before the trees have ventured to unfold their leaves, and while the icicles are pendant on our houses, the Snow-drop breaks her way through the frozen soil, feai'less of danger. Next peeps out the Crocus, but cautiously and with an air of timidity. She shuns the howling blasts, and cleaves closely to her humble situation. Nor is the Violet last in the shining embassy, which, with all the embellishments that would grace a royal garden, condescends to line our borders, and bloom at the feet of briars. Freely she distributes the bounty of her emissive sweets, while herself retires from sight, seeking rather to administer pleasure than to win admi- ration. Emblem, expressive emblem, of those modest virtues which delight to bloom in obscurity. There are several kinds of Violets, but the fragrant, both blue and white, are the earliest. Shakspeare compares an exquisitely sweet strain of music to the delicious scent of this flower : " oh ! it rame o'er my ear like the sweet South, That breathes upon a bank of Violets, Stealing and giving odour." fiG THE BEAUTIES OF APRn. AND MAY. The pious Hei"vey, in his admonitions to those who indulge in sloth, has thrown out the following sublime ideas : What sweets are those which so agreeably salute my nostrils T They are the bieath of the flowers, the incense of the gar- dens. How liberally does the Jasmine dispense her odoiife- rous riches ! How deliciously has the Woodbine embalmed this morning walk ! The air is all perfume. And is not this another most engaging argument to forsake the bed of sloth 1 Who would be involved in senseless slumbers, while 80 many breatliing sweets invite him to a feast of fragrancy, especially considering that the advancing day will exhale the volatile dainties ] A fugitive treat they are, prepared only for the wakeful and industrious. Whereas, when the slug- gard lifts his heavy eyes, the flowers will droop, their fine sweets be dissipated, and instead of this refreshing humidity, the air will become a kind of liquid fire. With this very motive, heightened by a representation of tlie most charming pieces of morning scenery, the parent of mankind awakes his lovely consort. There is such a deli- cacy in the choice, and so much life in the description of these rural images, that I cannot excuse myself without repeating the whole passage. Whisper it, some friendly genius, in the ear of every one, who is now sunk in sleep, and lost to all these refined gratifications ! "Awake! the morning shines, and the fresh field Calls you: ye lose the prime, to mark how spring The tended plants, how blows the Citron grove ; What drops the Myrrh, and what the balmy Reed , How Nature paints her colours; how the bee Sits on the bloom, extracting liquid sweets." How delightful is this fragrance ! It is distributed in the nicest proportion ; neither so strong as to oppz'ess the organs, nor so faint as to elude them. We are soon cloyed at a sumptuous banquet; but this pleasure never loses its poig- nancy, never palls the appetite. Here luxury itself is inno- cence; or rather, in this case, indulgence is incapable of ex- THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 57 cess. This balmy entertainment not only regales the sense, but cheers the veiy soul ; and, instead of clogging, elates its powers. " The soft green grass is growing O'er meadow and o'er dale ; Tlie silv'ry founts are flowing Upon the verdant vale ; The pale Snow-drop is springing To greet the glowing sun ; The Primrose sweet is flinging Perfume the fields along ; The trees are in their blossom, The birds are in their song; As Spring upon the bosom Of Nature's borne along. " So the dawn of human life Doth green and verdant spring: It doth little ween the strife — Like the Snow-drop it is fair, And like the Primrose sweet, But its innocence can't scare The blight from its retreat." Our subject is so enchanting, that we had inadvertently wandered from the path we first entered. We now retrace our steps, and take a glance at surrounding objects. The fields look green with the springing grass. See the Daffodil how it spreads itself to the wind ! The leaves of Honey- suckles begin to expand, the Lilacs, or Syringas, of various hues, unfold their buds. The Almond exhibits its rosy clus- ters, and the Corchorus its golden balls. Many of the low- lier plants exhibit their yellow and purple colours, and the buds of Lilies, and other Perennial plants, prepai'e to show themselves. If we turn our attention to the orchard, we behold the Apricots, Nectarines, and Peaches, lead the way in blossoming, which are followed by the Cherry and t;lie Plum. These form a most agreeable spectacle, as well on account of their beauty as of the promise they give of future bene- fits. It is, however, an anxious time for the possessor, as the fairest prospect of a plentiful increase is often blighted ^8 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAT. Shakspeare draws a pathetic comparison from this circum- stance, of the delusive iiatui-e of human expectations : "This is the state of man : to-day he puts forth The tender leaves of hope ; to-morrow blossoms, And bears his blushing honours thick upon him ; The third day conies a frost, a killing frost, And nips his root." But now we return to the garden. Before we have time to explore Nature's treasures, many disappear ; among these are the humble Daisy, which shrinks from the intense heat, and the several varieties of Primulas, or early spring flowers. The various grades of Polyanthus deserve a close inspection ; these, for a while, exhibit their sparkling beauties, but, alas ! soon disappear. Scarcely have we sustained this loss, but in comes the Auracula, and more than retrieves it. Arrayed she comes in a splendid variety of amiable forms, with an eye of crystal, and garments of the most glossy satin. A very distinguished procession this ! the favourite care of the florist; but these also soon disappear. Who could forbear grieving at their departure, did not the various sorts of bulb ous flowers burst their bands asunder, or rather expand so as to exliibit their fragrance and beauty. "Fair-handed Spring Throws out the Snow-drop and the Crocus first, The Daisy, Primrose, Violet darkly blue. And Polyanthus with unnumbered dyes. Then comes the Auracula, enriched with shining meal. O'er all their velvet leaves." Wliile we reluctantly dispense with the sweet perfumes of the Hyacinth and Narcissus, we behold the Tulips begin to raise themselves on their fine wands or stately stalks. They flush the parteiTe with one of the gayest dresses that bloom- ing Nature wears. Here one may behold the innocent wan- tonness of beauty. Here she indulges a thousand freaks, and sports herself in the most charming diversity of colours. In a grove of Tulips, or a bed of Pinks one perceives a differ- THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 59 ence in almost every individual. Scarcely any two are turned and tinted exactly alike. What colours, what colours are here ! these so nobly bold, and those so delicately languid ! What a glow is enkindled in some ! what a gloss shines upon others ! With what a masterly skill is every one of the varying tints disposed ! Here they seem to be thrown on with an easy dash of security and freedom ; there they are adjusted by the nicest touches of art and accuracy. Those colours which form the ground are always so judiciously chosen, as to heighten the lustre of the superadded figures ; while the verdure of the impalement, or shadings of the foliage, im- part new liveliness to the whole. Fine, inimitably fine, is the texture of the web on which these shining treasures are displayed. What are the labours of the Persian looms ; what all the gay attire which the shuttle or the needle can furnish, compared with Nature's works ? One cannot for- bear reflection in this place, on the too prevailing humour of being fond and ostentatious of dress. What an abject and mistaken ambition is this ! How unworthy the dignity of man, and the wisdom of rational beings ! Especially since these little productions of the earth have indisputably the pre-eminence in such outward embellishments. "Bright Tulips, we ao Know, Ye had your coming hither, Aud fadin;;; time dol.h show, That ye must quickly wither. " Your sisterhood may stay. And smile here for an hour, But ye must quickly die away, E'en as the meanest flower. " Come, virgins, then, and see Your frailties, and bemoan ye ; For lost like these — 'twill be As time had never known ye." But let us not forget the fragrant, the very fragrant Wall and Gilyflowers ; some of these regale us with their uer- GO THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AXD MAY. fumes through various vicissitudes and alteiTiations of the season, while others make a transient visit only. "I love thee, lone and pensive flower, Because thou dost not Jlaunt thy bloom In pleasure's gay and garnish'd bower, Or luxury's proud banquet room ; But on the silent, mouldering wall Thy cUngiug leaves a fragrance shed. Or give to the deserted hall, A relic of its glories fled. " These wreaths, in vivid freshness bright, Methinks the fluttering herd portray. Who bask on fortune's golden light, And wanton in licr joyous way ; But thou art like that gentle love, Which blooms when friends and fame have pass'd, Towers tlie dark wreck of hope above, And smiles through ruin to the last." In favoured climates arises the Anemone, encircled at the bottom with a spreading robe, and rounded at the top into a beautiful dome. In its loosely-flowing mantle, you may observe a noble negligence ; in its gently-bending tufts, the nicest symmetry. This may be termed the fine gentle- man of the garden, because it seems to possess the means of uniting simplicity and refinement, of reconciling art and ease. The same month has the merit of producing the Ranunculus. All bold and graceful, it expands the riches of its foliage, and acquires by degrees the lovliest enamel in the world. As persons of intrinsic worth disdain the superficial arts of recom- mendation practised by fops, so this lordly flower scorns to boiTow any of its excellencies from powders and essences. It needs no such attractions to render it the darling of the cuiious, being suflficiently engaging from the elegance of its figure, the radiant variety of its tinges, and a certain superior dignity of aspect. JUNE. " Now have young April, and the blue-eyed May, Vanished awhile, and lo! the glorious June (While Nature ripens in his burning noon) Comes like a young inheritor." THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAY. 61 I had intended to confine our meditations to the beautie)* of April and May, but Nature seems to improve in her opera- tions. Her latest strokes are the most masterly. To crown the collection, she introduces the Carnation, which captivates our eyes with a noble spread of graces, and charms another sense with a profusion of exquisite odours. This single flower has centred in itself the perfection of all the preceding. The moment it appears, it so commands our attention, that we scarcely regret the absence of the rest. " Maternal Flora, with benignant hand, Her flowers profusely .scatters o'er the land : These deck the valleys with unnumbered hues, And far around their pregnant sweets diffuse, The broad Carnations, gay and spotted Pinks, Are showered profuse along the rivers' brinks." The field we have entered is so extensive and so enchant- ing, that we cannot extricate ourselves without taking a cur- sory glance at the airs and habits, the attitude and lineaments, of each distinct class. See the Paeonia of China, splendid and beautifully grand ! View the charming Rose, delicate and languishingly fair ! and while you inhale its balmy sweetness, you will be constrained to admire it, notwithstanding its thorny appendages. "Rose! thou art the sweetest flower That ever drank the amber shower ; Rose! thou art the fondest child Of dimpled Spring ! the wood-nymph wild ! Resplendant Rose ! the flower of flowers, Whose breath perfumes Olympus' bowers ; Whose virgin blush, of chasten'd dye, Enchants so much our mental eye." Behold all the pomp and glory of the partene, where Na- ture's paint and perfumes do wonders. Some rear their heads as with a majestic mein, and overlook, like sovereigns or no- bles, the whole parterre. Others seem more modest in their aims, and advance only to the middle stations ; a genius turned for heraldry might term them the gentry of the border; while 6 Q2 THE BEAUTIES OF APRIL AND MAV. otlicrs, free from all aspiring airs, creep unambitiously on the ground, and look like the commonality of the kind. Some arc intersected with elegant stripes, or studded with radiant spots. Some affect to be genteelly powdered, or neatly fringed; while others are plain in their aspect, unaffected in their dress, and content to please with a naked simplicity. Some assume the monarch's purple ; some look most becoming in the A-ir- gin's white ; but black, doleful black, has no admittance into the Avardrobe of Spring. The weeds of mourning would be a manifest indecorum, when Nature holds a universal festival. She would now inspire none but delightful ideas, and there- fore always makes her appearance in some amiable suit. Here stands a warrior clad with crimson ; there sits a magisti'ate robed in scarlet ; and yonder struts a pretty fellow, that seems to have dipped his plumes in the rainbow, and glitters in all the gay colours of that resplendent ai'ch. Some rise into a curious cut, or fall into a set of beautiful bells. Others spread themselves in a swelling tuft, or crowd into a delicious cluster. In some the predominant stain softens by the gentlest dimi- nutions, till it has even stolen away from itself The eye is amused at the agreeable delusion, and we wonder to find ourselves insensibly decoyed into quite a different lustre. In others one would think the fine tinges were emulous of pre- eminence ; disdaining to mingle, they confront one another with the resolution of rivals, determined to dispute the prize of beauty; while each is improved, by the opposition, into the highest vivacity of complexion. " Mrs. P!Eony came in quite late in a heat, With the Ice-plant, dew-spangled from forehead to feet; Lobelia, attired like a queen in her pride, And Dahlias, with trimmings new furbish'd and dyed. And the Blue-bells, and Harc-hells in simple array. With all their Scotch cousins from highland and brae. Ragged Ladies and Marigolds clustered together, And gossip'd of scandal, the news, and the weather , What dresses were worn at the wedding so fine Of sharp Mrs. Thistle and sweet Columbine." 63 OBSERVATIONS ON THE CULTIVATION BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. These plants exhibit a striking variety of tlie beauties of Nature. It would seem as if every cliange she is capable of fomaing, was included in the radiant colours of the Tuli^D. Never was a cup either painted or enamelled with such a profusion of tints. Its stripes are so glowing, its contrasts so strong, and the arrangement of them both so elegant and artful, that it may, with propriety, be denominated the reign- ing beauty of the garden in its season. The Hyacinth is also an estimable flower for its bloommg complexion, as well as for its most agreeable perfume and variety. " The Hyacinth, purple, white, and blue, Which flung from its bells a sweet peal anew. Of music so delicate, soft, intense. It was felt like an odour within the sense." The Double Dahlia, in its numerous varieties, is incon ceivably splendid. It was only at the latter end of the eighteenth century that the first of these, which were single, were introduced into Europe from Mexico. Double Dahlias of three colours were first known in the year 1802, and since that time the varieties have increased so rapidly, that those which a few years ago were considered beautiful, are now thrown away to give place to the more splendid sorts. I have good authority for stating, that upward of twenty thousand seedlings are raised yearly in England, only a few of which are introduced into the collections of amateurs, to take the place of such old sorts as may from time to time be rejected. This is done, in order that none bi^t the very choicest may be retained in such collections. 64 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. In some gardens in Holland they cultivate, by distict names^ about eleven hundred varieties of Tulips, thirteen hundred of Hyacinths, and six hundred of Ranunculuses and Ana mones, some of which are sold as high as sixty dollars the single root. It is stated in the travels of Mr. Dutens, of his having known ten thousand florins, equal to $4,000, refused for a single Hyacinth ; and Dodsley says, in his Annual Regis- ter for 1765, that the Dutch of all ranks, from the highest to the lowest, during the years from 1634 to 1637 inclusive, neglected their business to engage in the Tulip trade. Ac- cordingly in those days, the Viceroy was sold for d£250, the Admiral Lief keens for d£440, and the Semper Jirigustus at from <5e500 to <£1,000 each ; and a collection of Tulips was sold by the executors of one Wouter Broekholsmentser for ^9,000. It is stated that in one city in Holland, in the space of three years, they had traded for a million sterling in Tulips. As a full catalogue of all the varieties of bulbous and tube- rous-rooted plants would occupy a number of pages, without affording much general interest, I shall content myself by de- voting a short paragraph in describing some of each particular species, which will be accompanied with directions for their culture, in a brief, and, at the same time, explicit manner. It may here be necessary to define the difference between bulbous and tuberous roots. Those designated bulbous have skins similar to Onions, or the Allium tribe ; and tuberous roots imply all such as produce tubers something similar to Potatoes. The soil for bulbous and tuberous roots in general should be light, and yet capable of retaining moisture ; not such as is liable to become bound up by heat, or that, in consequence of too large a portion of sand, is likely to become excessively hot in summer ; but a medium earth between the two ex- tremes. As many city gardens do not contain a natural soil of any depth, a suitable compost should be provided in such cases, which may consist of equal parts of sand, loam, rotten manure, mould, &c. WTien ready, the beds may be laid out, from three to four BULBOUS AND TUBEBOUS-ROOTED PLANTS. 65 feet wide, and they should be raised two or three inches above the level of the walks, which will give an opportunity for all superfluous moisture to run off. Let the beds thus tbnncd be pulverized to the depth of fifteen or eighteen inches ; and at the time of planting, let a small quantity of beach sand be strewed in the apertures or trenches prepared for the roots to grow in, both before and after placing them therein, which will prove beneficial. A southern exposure, dry and airy, and sheltered from the northwest winds, is preferable for most bulbs. But Anemones and Ranunculuses should be in some measure sheltered from the intense heat of noon. Beds of hardy bulbous and tuberous roots should be cov- ered on the approach of winter with litter, leaves, sti-aw, or such earth as is formed by the decay of leaves, to the depth of two or three inches, as it prevents any ill effects which a severe season may have on the roots ; but it should be care- fully raked off in the spring. Bulbous roots in general should be taken up in about a month or six weeks after the bloom is exhausted, or when the foliage is about half decayed. If fine warm weather, the bulbs may be dried on the beds they grow on, by placing them in separate rows, being careful not to mix the several varieties. To jirevent such an accident, labels may be afl^xed to, or placed in the ground opposite each bulb. They will keep much better when dried gradually ; to this end, a little dry eartli may be shaken over them, to screen them from the heat of the sun. If it should rain before they get dry, take them in, or cover them with boards ; when dry, clear them of the fibres and stems, and then put them away in dry sand or if wrapped in paper, they may be kept in boxes or draw • ers until the season of planting returns. The tender tuberous roots, such as Dahlias, and the like, will have to be taken up before the cold becomes severe. As the Dahlia exhibits its flowers in all their splendour until nipped by the frost, the roots ought, in the event of a very 6* 66 BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. sudden attack, to be securod from its blighting effects. They are not apt to keep well if taken up before they are ripened ; the tops should therefore be cut down as soon as they have done flowering, and the ground covered around the roots with dung or litter ; this will enable them to ripen without being injured by frost ; and in about a week after being cut down, or on the appearance of severe weather, they should be dug up and packed in dry sand, and then stowed away in a dry place out of the reach of frost. The temperature suited to keep green-house plants will preserve them in good order. Some people complain of the difliculty of keeping Dahlia roots thiougb the winter. I am of opinion that they are often killed from being taken up before they are ripe, and then put in a confined, damp place ; or are by some, per- haps, subjected to the other extreme, and dried to a husk. I keep mine on shelves in the green-house, and seldom lose one in a hundred. If it be an object with the cultivator to have the names perpetuated from year to year, each plant should have a small label affixed to the old stalk, by means of small brass or copper wire, as twine is very apt to get rotten. Cape bulbs, and such tuberous loots as are cultivated in pots, on account of their tenderness, should be kept dry after the foliage is decayed, until within about a month of their period of re-germinating, at which time they should, after having been deprived of their surplus offsets, be re-potted in good fresh earth. There are some descriptions of bulbous and tuberous roots that need not be taken up oftener than once in two or three years, and then only to deprive them of their young offsets, and to manure the ground. These will be described here- after under their different heads. In the articles which follow, I have named the preferable season for planting the various kinds of bulbous and tuberous roots ; but as some bulbs will keep in good condition several months, there can be no objection to retaining such out of the ground, to suit any particular purpose or convenience. I 67 DIRECTIONS FOR THE CULTIVATION BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS-ROOTED PLANTS. AMARYLLIS. Op this genus of flowering bulbs there are about eighty species, and upward of one hundred varieties; they are natives of South America, and in Europe are generally kept in the hot-house ; some of the varieties are hybrids, produced by cultivation ; these succeed very well in the green-house, and in this country we frequently have very perfect flowers in the borders. A few of the choicest varieties are as follows : Amaryllis Jiulica, or Crowned Amaryllis, is one of the most beautiful ; it produces four flowers, about seven inches in diameter, on an erect stem, about two feet and a half high, with six petals of green, crimson, and fine transparent red colours. A. Ballota produces thi'ee or four rich scarlet flowers on the stem, each about five inches in diameter ; there are two or three varieties of this species, all beautiful. A. Johnsoniensis, The stem of this variety rises about two feet, and exhibits four beautiful scarlet flowers, with a white streak in the centre of each petal, each flower about six inches diameter. It sometimes produces two stems. Jl. Longifolia, or Crinum Capense, is peifectly hardy ; it flowers in large umbels of a pink colour, inclining to white, and is a good garden variety. Ainayyliisfoi-mosissima, or Jacobean Lily, produces a flower of great beauty ; although a low-priced plant, it throws out gracefully its glittering crimson-coloured petals, which have a brilliancy almost too intense for the eye to rest upon. The A. Lutea produces its bright yellow flowers in October 68 ANEMONES AND RANUNCULUSES. in the open air; but tlie bulb requires a little protection in winter, or it may perish. The most suitable soil for the Amaryllis is a clean new earth, taken from under fresh grass sods, mixed with sand and leaf mould ; the latter ingredient should form about a third of the whole, and the sand about a sixth. Some of the varieties may be planted in pots during the month of April, and others will do very well in the open ground, if planted early in May, in a sunny situation. The bulb should not be set more than half its depth in the ground ; as, if planted too deep, it will not bloom ; the plant deriving its nourishment only from the fibres. When the bulbs have done flowering, such as are in pots should be watered very sparingly, so that they may be perfectly ripened, which will cause them to shoot stronger in the ensuing season, and those in the ground should be taken up, and preserved in sand or paper. ANEMONE AND RANUNCULUS. These are medium, or half-hardy roots, producing beau- tiful little flowers of various hues, and are highly deserving of cultivation. The bulbs should be planted in a fresh, well pulverized, loamy soil, enriched with cow dung. If planted in the garden, the beds ought not to be raised above one inch higher than the alleys, and the surface should be level, as it is necessary for the prosperity of these plants, rather to retain than to throw off" moisture. The plants will generally sur- vive our winters ; but it is always safest to plant them in such a manner that a temporary frame of boards can be placed over them when the weather sets in severe ; and if they are to be shaded while in flower, the posts intended for the awning may be fixed in the ground at the same time ; these \vill serve to nail the boards to, and thus answer two purposes. Anemones and Ranunculuses may be planted during Octo- ber or November, in drills two inches deep, and six inches CROCUS AND CROWN IMPERIAL. apart ; the roots should be placed with claws downward, about four inches distant fiom each other, and covered up, leaving the bed quite level. The awning need not be erected over the beds until they come into bud, which will be early in May ; the extreme heat of the American climate is, however, unfavourable to the perfect development of their beautiful blossoms in ordinary seasons, even when shaded. CROCUS. These are hardy little bulbs, said to be natives of S^vit- zerland. There are in all about fifty varieties of this humble, yet beautiful plant, embracing a great variety of hues and complexions, and their hardiness, and earliness of flower, offer a strong motive for their cultivation. The bulbs may be planted in October or November, in rows about six inches from the edgings ; if in beds, they may be placed in ranks of distinct colours, about four inches apart, and from one to two deep, which will afford to their admirers considerable amusement and gratification, and that at a very early season. They are generally in full perfection early in April. CROWN IMPERIAL. This is a species of the genus FritiUaria, of which there are about twenty species and varieties, chiefly natives of Persia. These squamose bulbs produce tall, luxuriant stems, embellished with green glossy foliage, and flowers of varioas hues ; but there are only a few of the most curious cultivated, perhaps on account of their odour, which to some persons is disagreeable. They are, however, very hardy, and pro- duce singular and showy flowers in April and May, suited to make variety in the flower borders, in which they may be planted in August and September, from three to four inches deep ; they need not be taken up every year as other bulbs, 70 coLrmcuM, cyclamen, and double daiilia. and when they are, which may be about every third year, they ought not to be retained too long out of the ground before tliey arc replanted. COLCHICUM. Tins curious little bulb, being planted in the month of June, about two inches deep, produces its flowers in Octo- ber ; it then dies, without leaving any external appearance of seed; they, however, lie buried in the bulb all the winter, and in the spring produce a stalk with seed, which get lipe by the first of June, just in time to plant for flowering in the ensu- ing autumn. How wonderful are the provisions of Nature f CYCLAMEN. There are several species of the Persian Cyclamen which are worthy of cultivation in pots; the varieties Coum and Persicum will bloom in a greep-house, or warm room, from January to April, if planted in good light compost early in Sejjtember. The foliage of these plants is of a dark green velvet colour ; and the flowers of the vaiiety Coum are of a dark crimson colour; those of the variety Persicum are of a delicate French white, tipped with pink, and their fragrance is similar to that of the wild rose. DOUBLE DAHLIA. This may with propriety be denominated one of the most im])ovtant perennial tubeious-rooted plants that can be intro- duced into a garden, and from the circumstance of its having become so fashionable of late years, I have felt anxious to furnish in this work a catalogue of all the choicest varieties attainable ; I therefore applied for this purpose to Mr, G. C Thorburn, who, from a regular correspondence with connois- DOUBLE DAHLIA. 71 seurs, both in England and America, becomes acquainted with all the most beautiful and rare varieties ; and he has kindly furnished a list and description of about one hundred, including the choicest seedlings of the last two years, which will be cultivated foi the first time in America, in his garden at Astoria, next year; plants from which will be for sale at No. 15, John street. To these I have added about one hun- -dred and twenty varieties, most of which I have had under cultivation in my own garden, and which may be justly denominated pre-eminent. In making this selection, several superb varieties are omitted, not because they are undervalued, but for the sake of brevity, which in a work of this kind must be consulted. Those marked thus t are native American varieties. Those marked thus * obtained the greatest number of premiums at the various Fkuicultural and Horticultural exhibitions in Great Britain, as Avell as in our own country. There are, perhaps, fifty more in this Catalogue not far beneath them, but none are marked except those which, from having been tested in this climate, can with confidence be recom- mended as being free and perfect bloomers. The choicest seedlings of last year which have been purchased in England at from fifteen shillings to five pounds sterling each, are marked thus §. It may be necessary to observe, that many of our choice old vaiieties, as well as several of the new ones hereinafter described, have not been offered in comjoe- tition at public exhibitions ; these are, therefore, not to be unders^alued for want of the star or asterisk, and it is pre- fiumcd that the biief description given of the different shades will be sufficient to govern amateurs in their choice. CATALOGUE OF DOUBLE DAHLIAS. t Denotei American Seedlings. * Free Bloomera. § New Varieliei. * Admiral Stopford, TrcnlfieWs, very dark, cupped petals ; fine formed flower. Alba Purpurea, Young'^s, white, edged with purple. Alexander, Miller''s, bright orange buff. Alphonse, Bavais''s, primrose, edged with violet. Alkcenig, light scarlet; extra large flower. ^Andromeda, CoUisoii's, primrose, tipped with carmine. Andrew HoiTer, Holmes's, briglit maroon, cupped petals. Antler, Keynes's, vivid scarlet ; fine formed flower. * Antagonist, Bragg''s, pure white; excellent formed flower, f Apollo, Sc/i»iilz''s, clear golden yellow, cupped petals. * Arethusa, Broiv7i\s, bright violet purple ; very fine. * Asmodeus, very dark puce ; novel and pretty variety. Athlete, Cheremi's, beautiful lilac ; extra fine shape. Beauty of Chelmsford, Wick''s, white, edged with lavender. Beauty of the Plain, Sparn/s, white, deeply margined with rosy purple. Beauty of Wakefield, Barrelt^s, white, edged with light purple. * Beauty of Sussex, MitchcWs, delicate pink, edged with cherry colour ; a free bloomer. ^Berryer, Turncr^s, black ; extra fine dark show flower. * Beeswing, Drummond's, rich crimson, splendidly cupped, t Black Prince, Kent''s, extra dark maroon. ^ Bohemian Girl, Proctor''s, white, edged with purple ; fine form. Bridemaid, Brown's, white, edged with purple ; free bloomer, f Brooklyn Rival, Kent\s, beautiful light orange ; fine shape. Burnham Hero, Churcli's, superb deep crimson, t Caleb Cope, Schmttz^s, mottled rosy lilac ; free bloomer. ^Captain Warner, Girling''s, light purple, elegantly shaped. Charles XII., Miller's, plum colour, tipped with white. Charles XII., Pamplin''s, fine rosy crimson. •Cheltenham Queen, Hodge''s, white, round petals, finely cupped. Cinderella, Dubras's, beautiful cherry colour, tipped with white. •Cleopatra, AticeWs, beautiful light yellow ; a fine show flower. ^Cloih of Gold, Edwards''s, extra bright golden yellow; superb show flower. DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 73 t Ociiolei American SeeJIin-^a. • Free Bloomers. 5 New VarliliM. * Colonel Baker, dark claret ; fine form and free bloomer. * Constantia, Cox^s, white, beautifully shaded with bright pink. Countess of Liverpool, beautiful shaped scarlet. ^ Dawn of Day, MitcheWs, light lilac ; elegantly formed flower f Desdemona, Schmitz's, primrose, tipped with rosy lilac. Donna Antonia, Dic/cens^s, purple, tipped with white. * Dowager Lady Cowper, rosy pink ; extra fine formed flower. Duchess of Richmond, Fowler^s, fine orange and pink. Duke of Bedford, Dennises, large crimson maroon. Duke of Wellington, Smithes, rich scarlet crimson, finely cupped. * Duke of York, Keynes'' s, light scarlet, beautifully cupped Dupetit Thouars, Mielliez's, deep yellow, laced with red Eclipse, Calleugli's, vermilion rose ; superb flower. Eleame de Beaucour, Girling^s, white, edged and striped with bright purple. Engenia, crome yellow, elegantly tipped with violet. Enterprise, Dodcfs, beautiful clear buff colour ; fine form. •Essex Champion, TUrvcWs, briglit orange; of superior form Evecque de Bayeux, OudMs, splendid velvety maroon. * Eximea, Giiii7ig's,. bright rose, finely cupped. ^ Fantasii, Mielliez''s, bright yellow, edged with scarlet. Favorite, Dodd^s, white, tipped. with rosy crimson. Francis, Jones''s, white, margined with purple. § Fulwood Glory, Teebaifs, light crimson ; extra fine form. f General Houston, BrieWs, light purple ; fine free bloomer. ^ Golden Fleece, Union's, bright orange ; splendid flower. Golden Rule, beautiful yellow; finely formed. ^ Goldfinch, crimson and yellow ; extra fine fancy variety. Grace Darling, Dodd's, bright salmon ; fine formed flower. Grandis, extra large ruby purple. * Great Mogul, AtiveWs, extra fine shaded crimson. Great Western, Bragg''s, light purple, mottled with crimson. * Harlequin, Dodd^s, white, deeply margined with scarlet. f Henry Clay, Schmitz''s, dark claret, beautifully cupped. f Hero of the States, Kenfs, light scarlet, dark centre. f Hero of the West, Schmitz''s, rosy carmine ; finely formed. * Hero of Stonehenge, Whales''s, dark crimson ; conical form ; veiy fine show flower. ^Hon. Mr. Herbert, Brown's^ bright salmon colour; exquisite form ; a free bloomer. Hope, Neville's, extra fine rose colour ; free bloomer. 74 DAHLIA CATALOGUE. t Denotea American SccJlinga. • Free Bloomers. % New Varietiea. * Illuininator, Keynes's, white, edged with scarlet ; similar to " Painted Lady." * Indispensable White, TassarCs, French white ; flowers of im- mense size. ^ Isis, Salter''s, nankeen, edged with white, interspersed with brown ; a fancy variety. Ithuriel, Harrisoiis, bronze, delicately shaded with pink. King of Lilacs, GirUng''s, beautiful lilac ; free bloomer. * liady Ann Murray, Calleugli's, white, mottled with purple. * Lady Antrobus, Spam/s, white, tinted with scarlet lake ; fine form, and free bloomer. t Lady Ashburton, Russcli s, pure white, elegantly tipped with car- mine lake. ^ Lady Cornwallis, Whales''s, blush white ; extra fine form. Lady Catharine Jermyn, white, mottled with crimson. ^ Lady Featherstone, Sparry's, white, margined with purple. * Lady Sale, Smith's, yellow, edged with brilliant scarlet. ^ Lady Stopford, Trentfield's, lake crimson ; fine form and free bloomer. * Lady St. Maur, white, delicately tipped with lavender. f Lady Stewart, Kent's, white, lightly tinged ; fine formed flower. * Lady Von Brendenstein, Degen's, white, tipped with violet. ^ Lady of the Lake, Keynes's, white, beautifully margined with rosy pink. * La Lione, SaZ/er'j, creamy white, elegantly edged with scarlet. * La Tour du Auvergne, orange scarlet ; large cupped flower. Le Grande Bourdain, Low's, rosy lilac, centre tinged with bright yellow. f Lutea Grandiflora, Kent's, light yellow ; free bloomer. t Lutea Perfecta, Kent's, sulphur yellow ; finely formed, f Luiea Speciosa, Schmitz's, extra fine shaped ; yellow. * Madame Chauviere, Gii-ling's, light crimson, tipped with white. Madame Rignou, buff, tipped with pure white. Madame Villabois, white, beautifully tipped with vermilion. Madame Wallner, Girling's, dark maroon, tipped with white. * Marchioness of Exeter, WidnaWs, peach blossom ; fine form, cupped petals. * Marchioness of Ormonde, Bourne's, white, tipped with violet-pur- ple ; fine show flower. Marshal Soult, FAphins tone's, delicate lilac, tinted with red. ^ Marquis of Aylesbury, Sparry's, purple ; very fin? show flower. DAHLIA CATALOGUE. 75' t Denotes American Seedlins^s. * Free Bloomers. § New Varieties. § Magician, Turner's, orange, edged with bright yellow. Maid of Bath, Dai)is''s, white, edged with purple. ^ Master George Clayton, a fine fancy show flower. Maria, Wheeler''s, deep rose ; superb form, free bloomer. (} Marguerite, Baileifs, beautiful crimson, tipped with white. ^ Miss Prettyman, Turner''s, white, margined with bright purple. ^ Mrs. Caudle, Turner's, light orange ; profuse bloomer, f Mrs. Clay, KenCs, white ; elegantly formed, and slightly shaded with lilac, f Mrs. Rushton, Buisfs, white, tipped ■with rose ; a free bloomer. * Mrs. Shelley, MitcheWs, rosy lilac ; fine form and free bloomer, t Negro, Schmilz''s, fine dark puce ; a good show flower. Nihil, Bailcy''s, fancy bright red, tipped with white. Novelty, shaded ruby ; fine form and free bloomer. Nonpareil, Proctor''s, ruby scarlet ; first-rate form, and showy. Ophir, Edwards's, fine yellow, sometimes tipped with crimson. * Orb, very fine scarlet crimson ; a perfect and free bloomer. § Orlando, Broicii's, pale rosy lilac, of fiue form and habit. ^ Pantaloon, Dodd's, a first-rate show flower, and free bloomer. Pickwick, Cormack's, purple ; fine form ; a good show flower, t Pontiac, Schmitz's, orange, edged with bright red ; very showy. ^ Princess Radsville, Gaines's, white, edged with crimson ; fine formed flower. Princess Royal, Harwood^s, fine primrose ; good form. Prince of Wales, Dodd''s, fine yellow, cupped petals. President of the West, dark crimson ; fine form. Punch, Dodd's, bright purple, striped with white ; fancy variety, f Purpurea Perfecta, Kent's, light purple ; very compact ; a free bloomer. ^ Queen of the Fairies, Cook's, delicate pink, deeply margined with white ; very fine. * Queen of Perpctuals, Girling's, delicate peach blossom ; a perfect formed flower. Queen of Roses, WidnaU's, pale rosy lilac ; very fine. § Queen of Sheba, WiUimson's, pure white ; elegantly formed. * Queen, WidnaU's, peach blossom, finely cupped; superb show flower, and free bloomer. Queen of Trumps, white, edged with rosy lilac. Raphael, maroon and crimson ; a good show flower. Reliance, WidnaU's, bright orange, finely cupped. Rival Prince of Orange, WidnaWs, bright orange ; very fine 76 DAHLIA CATALOGUE. t Denotes American Seedlin^B, * Free Bloomen. % New Varietur. f Rival, Schmilz^s, maroon, shaded with red. Ricnzi, WidnaWs, crimson and puce mottled. ^ Rose d'Amour, Browri's, extra fine dark lilac ; free bloomer. Rose Superior, Girlwg'^s, delicate rose colour; well formed. Scarlet Defiance, Cowderifs, superb dark scarlet ; great bloomer. § Scarlet Gem, Turner's, vivid scarlet ; an extra fine show flower. Sir E. Antrobus, Keyncs\s, fiery crimson ; a fine show flower. Standard of Perfection, dark crimson ; good-formed flower. Striata Formosissima, Bates's, blush white, striped and spotted with crimson. SufiTolk Hero, Girling^s, fine dark maroon ; a good bold flower. Sulphurea Elegans, Joneses, sulphur yellow ; large bloomer. Surprise, Oakley''s, bright scarlet, tipped with white. t T. C. Pereival, Schmitz's, large dark crimson, round petals; fine formed flower. Trafalgar, King's, peach blossom pink ; good form and showy. Triumph, Milliez^s, white, tinted with bright purple. * Ultimatum, Bavais''s, bright red ; elegantly formed. * Unique, AnselVs, light yellow, beautiiully tipped with red. * Victory of Sussex, Stanford's, dark maroon ; fine show flower. Victor, WidnaWs, bright primrose, edged with crimson. •Violet Perfection, Keynes's, purple, with bright violet shade. •Viscount Ressigneur, Dubras's, purple, tipped with white. ^ Yellow Standard, /r^ynw'^, the most perfect flower of its colour. t Yellow Victory, Schmitz^s, brimstone yellow ; free bloomer. DOUBLE DAHLIA. 77 As some amateurs are apt to fancy that the most economi- cal method of obtaining a supply of Dahlias in their gardens, is to raise them from seed, it may be necessary to remind such, that the trouble and expense of raising any quantity of seedlings, is equal to that attending the cultivation of the same number of the choicest varieties ; and when it is con- sidered that the greatest proportion of a plantation may be single, and semi-double, and that but few double flowering plants can be expected, equal to those above described, it must appear evident that it is the interest of such persons as desire to have their gardens unencumbered with plants that are not calculated to ornament the same, to procure plants or roots of such varieties as have been tested, aiid highly recommended, as is the case with all those described in the preceding Catalogue, and also those which are generally sold by the regular florists. But as I am wiiting for young gar- deners, it may be necessary to state, that although new varie tics are usually raised from seed of the finest double flowers some successful propagators prefer that procured fiom semi double varieties. Sow seed toward the end of February, rir early in March, in pots, and plunge them in a moderate not-bed, or seed may be deposited in the earth of the beds, m shallow drills, and the beds attended to as directed in the Calendar for February and March. Nothing is more simple than the cultivation of Dahlia roots. In Maich or April, they will, if properly kept through the winter, begin to sprout around the old stems and tubers. To forward these sprouts in growth, the roots should either be buried in light earth on the top of a moderate hot-bed, or else potted, and then set in a warm room, or green-house, and watered. As soon as the shoots have grown to the length of two or three inches, the roots may be divided in such a manner as to have a good strong shoot attached to a piece of tlie tuber, or old stem ; each of these will, if pro- peily managed, make a plant. Those who may commence cultivating at an early season, should put the plants thus 7* 78 DOUBLE DAHLIA. separated into small pots, and keep them in a g^o^^•ing state until about the middle of May, at which time they may be turned out of the pots with the balls of eaitn entire, and planted in the open borders, from three to four feet from «ach other.* Let the ground be well pulverized, and enriched with good old manure, before the plants are set out. If the top soil be shallow, and the subsoil inferior, it would be bene ficial to the plants to dig holes to the depth of fiom a foot to eighteen inches, and then replenish the earth with good rich compost, consisting of two thirds of fresh loam, and one third of well-rotted manure; Many cultivators have found late planting to suit better than early ; and I myself have had more perfect flowers from plants set out about the middle of June, than from those planted in May : this is easily accounted for. In July and August the weather is generally hot, which brings the most forward plants into bud at an early season, and in the event of a continuation of hot, dry weather, such buds fail to pro- duce perfect flowers ; whereas those plants which are set out late, keep growing through the hot weather, and produce their buds just in time to receive all the benefit of the au- tumnal rains. From a consideration of these circumstances, I think early in June the safest time to set out Dahlia plants; and if those persons who have no convenience to force their roots, set them out in May, in ground prepared as before directed, they will generally succeed very well, provided they take care to cover them in case of a cold change of weather. The roots may be thus cultivated entire, as is frequently done ; but if it be desired to have them parted, this business can be easily accomplished without disturbing the roots, and the offsets may be planted in the ground separately or potted. » In order to obtain an extra number of plants from any choice varieties, cuttings arc frequently taken from the shoots when about three inches in length, which arc planted in nursery-pots, and cultivated in liot-beds; they require to ho shaded from the sun, by m.its, fur the first fortnight, after which they may be gradually inured to the air, and treated as plants raised in the ordinary way. ' GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OK SWORD LILY. ?9 Previous to setting out the plants, it will be necessary to provide for tlieir preservation through the varied changes of the season, or a sudden gust of wind may destroy the expec- tations of a year. The bi'anches of the Dahlia are extremely brittle, and, therefore, a good stout pole, or neat stake, should be driven down near each root, of a suitable height, so thai the branches, as they progress in growth, may be tied thereto at eveiy joint, which maybe done with shreds of matting or twine. If the poles be in readiness, they are much more easily fixed at the time of planting the Dahlias than afterward; but it may be done at any time after the ground has been softened by rain, provided it be not delayed too long, so as to subject tho plants to risk. Sometimes a few forward buds of the Dahlias will exhibit their premature beauties to the beams of a July and August sun ; but their lustre is quickly dim- med. The latter end o( September, sometimes all October, and part of November, witness the Dahlia in all its glory ; and dwarf plants, cultivated in pots, will sometimes blossom at Christmas ; but they require more than ordinary care, at a late peiiod of their growth. GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILY. Of this genus of bulbs there are about fifty species, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. They jjroduce flowers of vari- ous colours, in August and September, and are well worthy the attention of those who cultivate tender exotic plants. They may be planted in September or October, about an inch deep, in pots, which must be kept in a green-house or light room, and watered sparingly until they begin to grow. The following are known to be superb species and varieties : G. alahis, or Wing-Flowered, producing bright orange coloured flowers. G. blandus produces flowers of a beautiful blush rose colour. 80 GLADIOLUS, CORN-FLAG, OR SWORD LILT. G. Byzantinus, or Turkish Flag, has large delicate purplo flowers. G. cardinalis. This variety produces very large flowers of superb scarlet, spotted with white. G. jloribundus, or Cluster Flower, produces large flowers >f white and pink colour. The Gladiolus J\''ata!eiisis, or Psittacina, is perhaps the most desirable to cultivate of all others. It blossoms freely, and the colours are exquisitely beautiful. In its progress of blooming, it exhibits variable colours, as vermilion, red, yel- low, gi'een, white, crimson, &c., which brighten, as the flower arrives at perfection, to the brilliancy of a rainbow. Another good quality displays itself in the bulb, which, if properly managed, will yield an abundance of offsets ; these being cultivated, will flower the third year in perfection, and thus continue to multiply perpetually. I have named September and October as the time for planting, because it is considered the preferable season for most bulbs ; but if these be preserved in good condition through the wintei until early in April, and then planted in a soil consisting of about one half fresh loam, equal parts of leaf mould, and sand, well mixed, they may be forwarded in a warm room, green-house, or moderate hot-bed, until settled warm weather, and then turned out of the pots into a border, where they can be shaded from the sun at noon- day ; this will induce each of them to throw up tliree or four stems, from thi'ee to four feet high, each stem producing five or six gorgeous blossoms, in great perfection. Those planted in the autumn or winter, may also be turned out of the pots in June ; and, from the fibres having taken substantial root in the soil befoi'e transplanting, such plants may be taken up again in August, or early in September ; and on being planted In large pots, they may be removed, so as to jjerfect their bloom, within view of the parlour or sitting-room, which will afford considerable amusement and gratification. , HYACINTH. 81 HYACINTH. "Hail to thee ! hail, thou lovely flower! Still shed around thy sweet perfume, Still smile amid the Wintry hour, And boast e'en then a spring-tide bloom. Thus hope, mid life's severest days. Still smiles, still triumphs o'er despair ; Alike she lives in pleasure's rays, And cold afiliction's Winter air." There are, as has been already stated, about thirteen hundred varieties of this family of plants, comprising all the various hues, as w^hite, pink, red, yellow, blue, purple, crim- son, &c., and some of those with various coloured eyes. They begin to produce their flowers in the open borders early in April, on short erect stems covered with florets or small bells ; each floret is well filled with petals rising toward the centre, and is suspended from the stem by short strong footstalks, the longest at the bottom, and the uppermost florets stand so erect as to form a pyramid. A plantation, or bed of these, has a very beautiful appearance, provided they are well attended to. In planting them, which should be in the months of October or November, care should be taken to have the colours so diversified as to suit the fancy ; they may be placed in short rows across the bed, about eight inches Hpart, and from three to four inches deep, measuiing from ihe top of the bulb, and covered up at the setting in of win- ter, as before recommended for bulbs in general. Those who may have a fine collection, should have an awning erected in the spring, to screen them from the chill ing blast, and also from drenching rains and the noonday sun and they should be looked over as soon as they make their appearance above ground, to see if they are all perfect and regular ; if faulty or inferior bulbs should appear to have been planted in a conspicuous part of the bed, by accident or mistake, they can be taken out, and by shortening the rows, others may be substituted with a trowel. When all are regulated, look over them frequently, and as the stems 82 IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE. IXIAS. shoot up, lie them to wires, or small rods, with shreds of bass matting or thread, being careful not to injure the floreta. In about six weeks after they have done flowering, the bulbs may be taken uj), and managed as recommended for bulbs in general, in a former page. IRIS, OR FLOWER DE LUCE. There are two distinct species of plants cultivated under the name of Flower de Luce, each consisting of several varie- ties. Tbe bulbous species and varieties are designated as English, Spanish, Chalcedonian, and Ameiican. These, if introduced into the flower borders, and intermixed with perennial plants of variable colours, have a very pretty appearance when planted in clumps or patches. This may be done in the month of October, by taking out a spadeful of earth from each place allotted for a plant, and then insert- ing three or four bulbs, about two inches deep. If the ground be poor, some rich comi^ost may be dug in around the spot before the bulbs are planted ; and if several sorts be planted in the same border, let them be of various colours. The tuberous-rooted are of various colours, as blue, yellow, brown, and spotted ; they are easily cultivated, and flower freely in a loose soil inclining to moisture, if planted in March or April. IXIAS. These are tender, but very free flowering bulbs, producing on their stems, which vary in height from six inches to two feet, very delicate flowers of various colours, as orange, blush, white, purple, gi'een, crimson, scarlet, and some have two or three colours blended in the same plant. There are, in all, upward of twenty species, which may be cultivated in the green-house, by planting the bulbs in pots in September or October, and placing them near the light, and watering them sparingly until they begin to shoot. JONQUILS LACHENALIAS LILIES. 83 JONQUILS. This is a hardy race of bulbs, and produces veiy delicate yellow flowers early in May. There are different varieties, some of which are single flowering, and others double. Their fragrance is very grateful, being similar to that of Jasmines. The bulbs may be planted about two inches deep in the flower borders, or in pots, in October, or before the setting in of winter ; they flower better the second year than in the first, and, therefore, should not be moved and replanted oftener than once in three years. LACHENALIAS. These are tender little bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope. There are supposed to be in all about forty species and varieties. Those most cultivated with us are the LacJi- enalia quadricolor, and L. tricolor, which are very beautiful when in full bloom, exhibiting flowers of various colours on a stem of from six inches to a foot in height, and much ir the character of Hyacinths. The colours, which are yellow, scarlet, orange, green, &c., are very pure and distinct. L. nervosa, L. orchoides, L. jmnctata, and L. rubida, are all excellent species, and worthy of cultivation. They may be planted from one to two inches deep, in small pots, in the months of August and September, and watered but sparingly until they begin to grow. LILIES. There are several plants under this name, of different genera, some of which are indigenous. The Canada Lily, with yellow spotted drooping flowers, may be seen in wet meadows toward the last of June, and early in July. The Philadelphia Lily blooms also in July ; its flowers are red. 84 LILIES. There are some pure white, and others yellow, growing in various parts of the country-. Among the foreign genera are several species. Of the JVlarlagon, or Turk's Cap Lilies, there are some beautiful varieties ; as the Caligula, which produces scarlet flowers ; and there is one called the Crown of Tunis, of purple colour ; beside these, are the Double Violet Flamed, the White, the Orange, and the Spotted ; these are all hardy, and may be planted in various parts of the garden, by taking out a square foot of earth, and then, after manuring and pulverizing it, the bulbs may be planted therein before the setting in of winter, at different depths, from two to four inches, according to the size of the bulbs. Some of the Chinese varieties are very beautiful, as the Tiger, or Leopard Lily, and the dwarf red, Lilium con- color. There are others with elegant silver stripes, which are very showy, and there is one called Lilium SKperbimi, that has been known to have twenty-five flowers on a single stalk. Beside those above enumerated, there aie some others which are generally cultivated in green-houses, as the Calla, or Ethiopian Lily ; and the following, which have been known to endure our winters, by protecting them with dung, &c. : Lilium longiflorum, in two varieties ; these pro- duce on their stalks, which grow from twelve to eighteen inches high, beautiful I'ose coloured flowers, streaked with white, which are very sweet-scented. These roots are sometimes kept out of the ground until spring, and then planted in the flower borders, but they should be preserved carefully in sand or dry mould. Lilium Japotticum : of these there are two varieties, which produce several stalks at once, yielding very showy flowers. One of the varieties is blue flowered, and the other produces flowers of the purest white. NARCISSUS. OENITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF UETIILKHEM. 85 NARCISSUS. The species and varieties of this plant are numerous. The Incomparable is perfectly hardy, and produces its flowers iu April, which are called by some pasche, or pans flowers, by others, butter and eggs ; perhaps because their bright yellow petals are surrounded with large white ones. Some persons dislike the smell of these, and it is said that the odour has a pernicious effect upon the nerves; but the white fragrant double, as well as the Roman, and Polyanthus Narcissus, are free from this objection, being of a very grateful and agree- able smell. Some of these are justly held in great esteem for their earliness, as well as for their varied colours. The Grand Mouarque de France, the Belle Legoise, and some Others, have white flowers with yellow cups. The Glorieux has a yellow ground, with orange coloured cups ; beside these are some white and citron coloured, as the Luna, and others entirely white, as the Rein Blanche and JStorgenster. All these varieties are very suitable either for the pai'lour or green-house, and may be planted in pots, from October to December, from two to three inches deep. The double Ro- man Narcissus are veiy sweet-scented ; if these be planted in pots, or put into bulb glasses in the month of October, they will flower in January and February. Polyanthus Narcissus are more delicate than Hyacinths or Tulips ; when they are planted in the open border, they should be covered about four inches witli earth, and before the setting in of winter, it is advisable to cover the beds with straw, leaves, or litter, to the depth of six or seven inches, and to uncover them about the middle of March. ORNITHOGALUM, OR STAR OF BETHLEHEM. There are about fifty varieties of these bulbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, some of which are from three to five inches in diameter, and shaped similar to a pear; others 8 86 oxAi.is. are much like Hyacintli bulbs. Among those cultivated in America are the O. lacteum, and the O. aurenm ; the former pnjduces fine white flowers, and the spike is about a foot in length ; and the latter produces flowers of a golden colour, in contracted racemose corymbs. The 0. marUhnnm, oi Sea Squill, is curious ; from the centre of the root rise seve- ral shining glaucous leaves, a foot long, two inches broad at the base, and narrowing to a point. If kept in a green-house, these are green during the winter, and decay in the spring ; then the flower-stalk comes up rising two feet, naked half way, and terminated by a pyramidal thyrse of white flowers. These bulbs are generally cultivated in the green-house, and. require a compost consisting of about one half fresh loam, one third leaf mould, and the remainder sand, in which they may be planted in September, When cultivated in the gar- den, they should be planted four or five inches deep, and protected with dung, &c. They produce their flowers early in June. OXALIS. The Oxalis is a native of the Cape of Good Hope ; the species are numerous, and their roots are very small bulbs, articulated, jointed, or granulated, in a manner peculiar to this genus. They produce curious flowers of various hues, yellow, purple, rose, red, white, striped, vermilion colour, &c. The b"ulbs should be planted in veiy small pots, in August and September, in a compost consisting of about two thirds loam, and one third leaf or light mould, and treated in the same manner as other Cape Bulbs. They increase in a pe- culiar manner, by the parent bulb striking a fibre down from its base, at the extremity of which is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the old one perishing. These plants will flower fieely in a green-house. PjEony. 87 P^ONY. " Psonia round each fiery ring unfurls, Bares to the noon's bright blaze her sanguine curls." Of this genus of splendid plants there are known to be about twenty species, and as many varieties. It is said that the Poeonia officinalis rubra, or common double red Paeony, was introduced into Antwerp upward of two centuries ago, at which time it was sold at an enormous price. It has since been highly esteemed in Europe and America, and is to be found in all well-established gardens, exhibiting its vivid crimson petals early in June. Many superb species have of late years been brought from China, a few of which may be noticed, with some others which are in very great repute. Paonia alba Chinensis is one of the finest of the herbaceous sorts. The flowers are white, tinged with pink at the bot- tom of the petals. P. edulis tuhitleji has also white flowers, which are very large and splendid. P. edulis fraorans, is a fine large double scarlet variety, and produces flowers perfumed like the rose. P. hmnei has beautiful large double dark blush-coloured flowers. P. paradoxa Jimbriata produces fringed double red flowers, which are very beautiful. These are all hardy, and may be planted about four inches deep in the garden, in October or November. The flowers exhibit themselves to the best advantage when planted on a bed that is elevated, and of a circular form. The following are half hardy and half shrubby ; these have been known to survive the winter by being well pro- tected, but are kept much better in a green-house ; and they also exhibit their flowers to greater advantage than when exposed to the full sun. P. moutan Bankskii, or Tree Paeony, produces very large double blush flowers in abundance, with feathered edges to every petal. This variety is highly deserving of cultivation. 88 TULIP. p. moidan rosea is a fine rose-coloured double variety, and produces very splendid flowers. P. motitan papaveracea produces very large white flowers, with pink centres. This splendid variety frequently bears flowers from nine to eleven inches in diameter. Beside the above, are several others of various colours, some of which are semi-doubler TULIP. " For brilliant tints to charm the eye, AVhat plant can with the Tulip viel Yet Ro delicious scent it yields To cheer the garden or the fields ; Vainly in gaudy colours dressed, 'Tis rather gazed on than caressed." The Tulip is a native of the Levant, and has been in cul- tivation nearly three centuries. It may be justly entitled the King of Flowers, for the brilliancy and endless combination of all colours and shades. The varieties of the Tulip are very numerous, and are divided into different classes. Those cultivated in regular beds by amateurs are rose-coloured, bybloemen, and hizarres. There are a great many beautiful varieties, denominated Parrot Tulipl, which have notched petals, striped or diversified with green ; and also some very dwarfish kinds, both single and double, which are generally cultivated in parlours and green-houses. Air. T.Hogg, of Paddington, near London, has published a work, entitled ' A Treatise on the cultivation of Florists* Flowers,' which comprises the Tulip, Carnation, Auricula, Ranunculus, Polyanthus, Dahlia, German and China Asteis, Seedling Heart's Ease, and New Annuals. In that work, which is dedicated to Queen Adelaide, the author remarks that the cultivation of the Tulip is one of the most fascina- ting and pleasing pursuits imaginable, and that when " The Tulip mania has fairly got hold of any one, it sticks to him TULIP. 89 like the skin on his back, and remains with him the rest of his life." He instances a Mr. Davey, of Chelsea, as being in his seventy-fifth year, and in whose breast the fancy for Tulips was so predominant, that in the autumn of 1S32, h 265 It finally, in its altered state, sinks down the bark, whence it is given offlaterallyby the medullary rays, and is distributed through the system. 266. No solid matter whatever can be taken up by the roots ; for this reason, metals, which in the state of oxydes are poisonous, are perfectly harmless in their metallic state, as mercury ; and this is, no doubt, the cause why liquid manure, which contains all the soluble parts of manure in a fluid state, acts with so much more energy than stimulating substances in a solid state. 267. The cause of the motion of the sap is the attraction of the leaf- buds and leaves. 268. The leaf-buds called into growth by the combined action of the increasing temperature and light of spring, decompose their carbonic acid (279), and attract fluid from the tissue immediately below them ; the space so caused is filled up by fluid again attracted from below, and thus amotion gradually takes place in the sap from one extremity to the other. 269. Consequently, the motion of the sap takes place first in the branches and last in the roots. 270. For this reason, a branch of a plant subjected to a high tempera ture in winter, will grow while its stem is exposed to a very low tempera tare. 271. But growth under such circumetances will not belong maintamed; unless the roots are secured from the reach of frost ; for, if frozen they cannot act, and will consequently be unable to replace the sap of which the stem is emptied by the attraction of the buds converted into branches, and by the perspiration of the leaves (XII.) 272. Whatever tends to inspissate the sap, such as a dry and heated atmosphere, or an interruption of its rapid flow, or a great decomposition of carbonic acid, by full exposure to light, has the property of causing ex- cessive vigour to be diminished, and flower-buds to be produced. 273. While, on the other hand, whatever tends to dilute the sap, such as a damp atmosphere, a free and uninterrupted circulation, or a great accti- mulation of oxygen in consequence of the imperfect decomposition of car- bonic acid, has the property of causing excessively rapid growth, and an exclusive production of leaf-buds. 274. Inspissated or accumulated sap is, therefore, a great cause of fertility. 275. And thin fluid, not being elaborated, is a great cause of sterility. 276. The conversion of sap into different kinds of secretion is effected by the combined action of Air (XL), Light (XL), and Temperature. XI. Air and Light. 277. When an embryo plant (242) is formed within its integuments, it ts usually colourless, or nearly so ; but, as soon as it begins to grow, that part which approaches the light (the stem) becomes coloured, while the opposite extremity (the root) remains colourless. 278. The parts exposed to the air absorb oxygen at night, absorb car- bonic acid and part with oxygen again in daylight ; and thus in the day- time purify the air, and render it fit for the respiration of man. 279. The intensity of this latter phenomenon is in proportion to the intensity of solar light to which leaves are directly exposed. 8S0 Ita iause is the decomposition of carbonic acid, the extrication of 13'> AIR AND LIGHT. oxygen, and the. acquisition by the plant of nrbon in n solid state : from which, modified by the peculiar vital actions of species, colour and secre- tions are supposed to result. 281. For it IS found that the intensity of colour, and the quantity of secretions, are in proportion to the exposure to light and air, as is shown by the deeper colour of the upper sides of leaves, &c. 252. And by the fact that if plants be grown in air from which light is excluded, neither colour nor secretions are formed, as is exemplified in blanched vegetables ; which, if even naturally poisonous, may, from want of exposure to light, become wholesome, as Celery. 253. When any colour appears in parts developed in the dark, it is gen- erally caused by the absorption of such colouring matter as pre-existed in the root or other body from which the blanched shoot proceeds, as in some kinds of Rhubarb when forced. 284. Or bv the deposition of colouring matter formed by parts developed in light, as in the subterranean roots of licet. Carrots, &c. 2So. What is true of colour is also true of llavour, which equally de- pends upon li^iht for its existence ; because I'avour is produced by chemi- cal alterations in the sap caused by exposure to liirht (229). 286. The same thing occurs in regard to nutritive matter, which in like manner is formed by exposure of leaves to light. Thus the Potato when forced in dark houses, contains no more amylaceous matter Ihnn previ.tusly existed in the original tuber; but acquires it in abundance when placed in the light, and deposites it in proportion as it is influenced by light and air. Thus, also, if Peaclies are grown in wooden houses, at a distance from the light, they will form so little nutritive matter as to be unable to support a crop of fruit, the greater part of which will fall off. And for a similar reason, it is only the outside shoots of standard fruit trees that bear fruit. Considerations of this kind form in part the basis of pruning and training. 287. Light is the most powerful stimulus that can be employed to ex- cite the vital actions of plants, and its energy is in proportion to its intens- ity ; so that the direct rays of the sun will produce much more powerful effects than the diffused light of day. 288. Hence, if buds that are very excitable are placed in a diffused light, their excitability will be checked. 289. And if buds that are very torpid are exposed to direct light, they will be stimulated into action. 290. So that what parts of a tree shall first begin to grow in the spring may be determined at the will of the cultivator. 291. This is the key to some important practices in forcing. 292. This should also cause attention to be paid to shading buds from the direct rays of the sun in particular cases ; as in that of cuttings, whose buds, if too rapidly excited, might exhaust their only reservoir of sap, the stem, before new roots were formed to repair such loss. 293. As plants derive an essential part of their food from the air (280) by the action of light, it follows that in glass houses those which admit the greatest portion of light are the best adapted for purposes of cultivp tion. 294. The proportion of opaque matter in the roof of a glass house con- structed of wood varies from one third to one seventh ; that of an iron house does not exceed one twenty-third. PERSPIRATION. 137 295 Therefore, iron-roofed houses are in this respect better suited for cultivation thnn wooden-roofed houses. 296. And it has been found by experiment, that light passes more freely through a curvilinear than through a plane roof, and throua:!) glass forming an acute angle with the horizon than through perpendicular glass, it follows that a curvilinear roof is best, and a plane roof with glass perpendicular sides the worst, adapted to the purposes of the cultivator. 297. For the same reason common green glass is less fitted for glazing forcing-houses than white crown glass. 298. Poisonous gases in very minute quantities act upon vegptation with great ener-jty. A ten-thousandth part of sulphurous acid gas is quickly fatal to the life of plants ; and hence the danger of flues heated by coal fires, and the impossibility of making many species grow in the vicinity of bouses heated by coal fires, or in large towns. XII. Perspiration. 299. It is not. however, exclusively by the action of light and air that the nature of sap is altered. Evaporation is constantly going on during the growth of a plant, and sometimes is so copious, that an individual will perspire its own weight of water in the course of twenty-four hours. 300. The loss thus occasioned by the leaves is supplied by crude fluid, absorbed by the roots, and conveyed up the stem with great rapidity. 301. The consequence of such copious perspiration is the separation and solidification of the carbonized matter that is produced for the peculiar secretions of a species. 302. For the maintenance of a plant in health, it is indispensable that the supply of fluid by the roots should be continual and uninterrupted. 303. If any thing causes perspiration to take place faster than it can be counteracted by the absorption of fluid from the earth, plants will be dried up and perish. 304. Such causes are, destruction of spongioles, an insufficient quantity of fluid in the soil, an exposure of the spongioles lo occasional dryness, and a dry atmosphere. 305. The most ready means of counteracting the evil consequences of an imperfect action of the roots is by preventing or diminishing evapora- tion. 306. This is to be effected by rendering the atmosphere extremely humid. 307. Thus, in curvilinear iron hot-houses, in which the atmosphere be- comes so dry in consequence of the heat, that plants perish, it is necessary that the air should be rendered extremely humid, by throwing water upon the pavement, or by introducing steam. 308. And in transplantation in dry weather, evergreens, or plants in leaf, often die, because the spongioles are destroyed, or so far injured in the operation as to be unable to act, while the leaves never cease to perspire. 309. The greater certainty of transplanting plants that have been grow- ing in pots, is from this latter circumstance intelligible. 310. While the utility of putting cuttings or newly transplanted seed- lings into a shady damp atmosphere, is explained by the necessity of hin- dering evaporation. 138 CUTTINGS. XIII. Cuttings. 311. When a separate portion of a plant is caused to produce new roots and branches, and to increase an individual, it is a cutting. 312. Cuttings are of two sorts: cuttings properly so called, and eyes r3l9). 313. A cutting consists of an internodia, or a part of one, with its nodi ^592 and leaf-bud. 314. When the internodia is plunged in the earth it attracts lluid from the soil, ami nourishes the bud until it can feed itself. 315. Thf bud, feeding at first upon the matter in the internodia, grad- ually enlonsatps upward into a branch, and sends organized matter down- ward, which becomes roots. ol6. As soon as it has established a communication with the soil, it be- comes a new individual, exiictly like that from which it was taken. 317. As it is the action of the leaf-buds that causes growth in a cutting, it follows that no cutting without a leaf-bud will grow ; 318. Unless the cutting has great vitality and power of forming adven- titouB leaf-buds (1 19), which sometimes happens. 319. An eye is a leaf bud without an internodia. 320. It only differs from a cutting in having no reservoir of food on which to exist, and in emitting its roots immediately from the base of the leaf-bud into tlie soil. 321. As cuttings will very often, if not always, develope leaves before any powprful connection is formed between them and the soil, they are peculiarly liable to suiTer from perspiration. 322. Hence the importance of maintaining their atmosphere in an uni- form state of humidity, as is effected by putting bell or other glasses over them. 323. In this case, however, it is necessary that if air-tight covers are employed, such as bell-glasses, they should be from time to time removed and replaced, for the sake of getting rid of excessive humidity. 324. Layers differ from cuttings in nothing except that they strike root into the soil while yet adhering to the parent plant. 32.5. Whatever is true of cuttings is true of layers, except that the latter are not liable to suffer by evaporation, because of their communication with the parent plant. 326. As cuttings strike roots into the earth by the action of leaves or leaf- buds, it miijht be supposed that they will strike most readily when the leaves or leaf-bnds are in their greatest vigour. 327. Nevertheless, this power is controlled so much by the peculiar vital powers of different species, and by secondary considerations, that it is im- possible to say that this is an absolute rule. 328. Thus Dahlias and otiier herbaceous plants will strike root freely when cuttings are very young ; and Heaths, Azaleas, and other hard-wooded plants, only when the wood has just begun to harden. 329. The (brmer is, probably, owing to some specific vital excitability, the force of which we cannot appreciate ; the latter either to a kind of torpor, which seems to seize such plants when the tissue is once emptied of fluid, or to a natural slowness to send downward woody matter, whetlier for wood or not, which is the real cause of their wood being harder. 12* SCIONS. 139 330. If ripened cuttings arc upon the whole the most fitted for multi- plication, it is because their tissue is less absorbent than when younger, and that they are less likely to suffer either from repletion or evaporation. 331. For, to gorge tissue with food, before leaves are in action to decom- pose and assimilate it, is as prejudicial as to empty tissue by the action of leaves, before spongioles are prepared to replenish it. 332. For this reason, pure silex, in which no stimulating substances are contained (silver sand), is the best adapted for promoting the rooting of cuttings that strike with difficulty. 333. And for the same reason, cuttings with what gardeners call a heel to them, or a piece of the older wood, strike root more readily tlian such as are not so protected. The greater age of the t'ssue of the heel renders it less absorbent than tissue that is altogether newly formed. 334. It is to avoid the bad effect of evaporation that leaves are usually for the most part removed from a cutting, when it is first prepared. XIV. Scions. 335. A scion is a cutting (311) which is caused to grow upon another plant, and not in the earth. 3:^6. Scions are of two sorts : scions properly so called, and buds (354). 337. Whatever is true of cuttings is true also of scions, all circum- stances being equal. 338. When a scion is adapted to another plant, it attracts fluid from it for the nourishment of its leaf-buds until they can feed themselves. 339. Its leaf-buds thus fed, gradually grow upward into branches, and send woody matter downward, which is analagous to roots. 340. At the same time, the cellular substance of the scion and its stocli adheres (19). so as to form a complete organic union. 341. The woody matter descending from the bud passes through the cellular substance into the stock, where it occupies the same situation as would have been occupied by woody matter supplied by buds belonging to the stock itself. 342. Once united, the scion covers the wood of the stock with new wood, and causes the production of new roots. 343. But the character of the woody matter sent down by the scion over the wood of the stock being determined by the cellular substance, which has exclusively a horizontal developement (73), it follows that the wood of the stock will always remain apparently the same, although it is furnished by the scion. 344. Some scions will grow upon a stock without being able to trans- mit any woody matter into it ; as some Cadi. 34.5. When this happens, the adhesion of the two takes place by the cellular substance only, and the union is so imperfect that a slight degree of violence suffices to dissever them. 346. And in such coses the buds are fed by their woody matter, which absorbs the ascending sap from the stock at the point where the adhesion has occurred ; and the latter, never augmenting in diameter, is finally over- grown by the scion. 347. When, in such instances, the communication between the stock 140 TRANSPLANTATION. and the scion is ao mucli interrupted that the sap can no longer ascend with sufficient rapidity into the branches, the latter die ; as in many Peaches. 348. This incomplete union between the scion and its stock is owing to some constitutional or organic dili'erence in the two. 349. Therefore, care should be taken that when plants are grafted on one another, their constitution should be as nearly as possible identical. 350. As adhesion of only an imperfect nature takes place when the scion and stock are, to a certain degree, dissimilar in constitution, so will no ad- hesion whatever occur when their constitutional dillerence is very decided. 351. Hence it is only species very nearly allied in nature that can be grafted on each other. 352. As only similar tissues will unite (19), it is necessary, in applying a scion to the stock, that similar parts should be carefully adapted to eacb other ; as bark to bark, cambium to cambium, alburnum to alburnum. 353. The second is more especially requisite, because it is through the cambium that the woody matter sent downward by the buds must pass ; and also because cambium itself, being organizing matter in an incipient state, will more readily form an adhesion than any other part. 354. The same principles apply to buds, which are to scions precisely what eyes (319) are to cuttings. 355. Inarching is the same with reference to grafting, that layering (324) is with reference to striking by cuttings. 356. It serves to maintain the vitality of a scion until it can form an adhesion with its stock 5 and must be considered the most certain mode of grafting. 357. It is probable that every species of flowering plant, without excep- tion, may be multiplied by grafting. 358. Nevertheless, there are many species and even tribes that never have been grafted. 359. It has been found that in the Vine and the Walnut this difficulty can be overcome by attention to their peculiar constitutions ; and it is pro- bable that the same attention will remove supposed difliculties in the case of other species. XV. Transplantation. 360. Transplantation consists in removing a plant from the soil in which it is growing to some other soil. 361. If in the operation the plant is torpid, and its spongioles uninjured, tlic removal will not be productive of any interruption to the previous rate of growth. 352. And if it is growing, or evergreen, and the spongioles are uninjured, the removal will produce no farther injury than may arise from the tem- porary suspension of the action of the spongioles, and the non-cessation of perspiration during the operation. 363. So that transplantations may take place at all seasons of the year, and under all circumstances, provided the spongioles are uninjured. 364. This applies to the largest trees as well as to the smallest herbs. 365. But as it is impossible to take plants out of tlie earth without destroying or injuring the spongioles. the evil consequence of such acci- dents must be remedied by the hinderance of evaporation. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 141 366. Transplantation should therefore take place only when plants are torpid, and when their respiratory organs (leaves) are absent ; or, if they never lose those organs, as evergreens, only at seasons when the atmosphere is periodically charged with humidity for some considerable time. 367. Old trees, in which the roots are much injured, form new ones so slowly, that they are very liable to be exhausted of sap by the absorption of their very numerous young buds before new spongioles can be formed. 368. The amputation of all their upper extremities is the most probable prevention of death ; but in most cases injury of their roots is without a remedy. 369. Plants in pots being so circumstanced that the spongioles are pro- tected from injury, can, however, be transplanted at all seasons without any dangerous consequences. INTRODUCTION. MONTHLY CALENDAR The object of the following Calendar is to furnish, in a con- densed form, monthly directions for the culture of some plants not previously mentioned in this work; and also to direct tiae reader's attention to the regular management of such plants as have been heretofore treated of. In pursuit of the latter object, references will be made to former pages, so as to exhibit, at one view, the business of the garden in each month of the year. The figures indicate the pages in which farther directions may be found relative to the operation.^ referred to. 142 MONTHLY CALENDAR. JANUARY. Winter's white siicet now covers earth's cold bed ; Pride of our home, the lovely Flowers, are dead ; Some early venturers would the aspect cheer, The first-born children of the dawning year. Having shown, in page 100, that heat, air, and water are the food of plants, and necessary to the preservation of their health and life, if given in due proportion according to cir- cumstances, I would, at this season of the year, especially, salute the gardener with " Be ye temperate in all things." Temperance in the use of water is of the utmost import- ance in the winter season, for several reasons which may be given. In the first place, water will attract frost, and, there- fore, should be used very sparingly in frosty weather; another consideration is, that in the absence of heat and air, plants cannot absorb much moisture, and, consequently, must become injured from excessive watering ; and it may be observed farther, that it is not prudent to keep plants in an extremely vigorous state, until the season arrives when the external air is soft and salubrious ; they can then have a due proportion of heat, air, and moisture at the same time. Perhaps the next important point to be attended to at this lime is, to see that the green-house, or room, in which plants are intended to be preserved, is calculated for the pui-pose. The room should be light and airy, and yet so secure as to prevent the intrusion of external cold air, or the depaiture of warm air in the night season. A Fahrenheit thermometer is indispensable in a green- house, or room, where plants are kept, and the temperature should be always kept up as nearly as possible to forty degrees, in the absence of the sun. If the gardener retire to rest in this variable climate, leaving the mercury much below forty, he may expect to find his plants frozen in the morning. A good brick flue is better calculated for heating a small green-house than any other contrivance ; because, after a suflSicient fire has been made to heat the bricks thoroughly, MONTHLY CALENDAR. 143 they will retain the heat through a winter night, whereas an ii-on stove with its metal pipes will cool as the fire gets low, and expose the plants to cold toward morning, which is the time they most need protection. The heat from iron is, moreover, too dry and parching, while an evaporation or salubricRis steam may be raised from bricks, by sprinkling the flue occasionally, which would operate on plants similar to healthful dew-drops. At this season of the year, sitting-rooms, or parlours, are generally heated in the daytime to full twenty degrees higher than what is necessary for the preservation of plants ; consequently, as the heat decreases in the night season, plants often get injured, unless a fire is kept up. Air must be admitted to plants kept in this way, at all opportunities ; and more water will be necessary for such plants, than those kept in a gi'een-house would require. For the management of bulbous roots in pots or glasses, the reader is referred to page 94. FEBRUARY. Like shivering orphans on the wide world cast, They feel the rigour of the Northern blast, Whilst Fortune's Favourites claim the florist's care, And all the comforts of the green-house share. Having in the previous month discussed some important points relative to the general care of plants, I now proceed to notice a few of those kinds that require attention at this particular season : Camellias, or Japan Roses. There are numerous varieties of this valuable class of plants, exhibiting every shade of colour, from deep crimson to the purest white ; in some imperceptibly blended, in others strikingly contrasted. They are unrivalled objects of beauty from October to May, being set in a fine glossy foliage. 144 MONTHLY CALENDAU. Double Camellias are generally propagated on stocks of the single, which are procured by planting cuttings of the young shoots in light mould under bell glasses ; on these, when grown to a sufficient size, are inarched the finer kinds of double. Sometimes these latter are also struck by cut- tings; but as their progress by such method is generally slow and uncertain, it is seldom resorted to. These valuable plants are too often injured by amateurs, from misapplied care bestowed upon them, so that their whole compensation and enjoyment is reduced to the mere possession of a hand- some green shrub. Destined, from the extreme beauty and unrivalled delicacy of their flowers, to become the cliipf pride and ornament of the green-house and drawing-room in the winter season, Cauiellias should have a fair chance given them to exhibit their line bloom in perfection. It should be observed, that Camellias are by no means tender shrubs, but require to be kept in a medium, even temperature, and they generally succeed best in a green- house, where the atmosphere is damp. As the buds begin to swell, they will require more water than at any other time, which may be applied from the rose of a watering-pot, or syiinge, while in bud, but when in blossom it should be ap- plied to the earth. If Camellias be kept where there is a dry air, occasioned from fire heat, they must have plenty of the natural air at all opportunities, or the buds will become brown and fall off; and if they are exposed to extreme cold at night, which is too often the case when kept in rooms of an uneven temperature, premature decay of the buds will inevitably be the consequence. To preserve Camellias in a healthy condition, they should be kept in a fresh, moderately light soil, consisting of sandy loam taken from under grass sods, and leaf mould well mixed; nothing being more injurious to them than over- potting ; they should not be shifted into larger pots, until the projection of their roots show evidently tliat they are in need MONTHLY CALENDAR. J45 of it. Few plants bear privation of sunshine in summer better than these ; they should, however, be kept in an open situation, where they can have a full share of light and air. Such bulbous roots as may be in progress of blooming, will require attention this month ; turn them frequently to the light, as recommended in page 95, and increase the sup- plies of water as they advance toward perfection. Attend to Campanula Pyramidalis, Hepaticas, Mimulus, Senecios, and herbaceous plants in general ; those not in bud should be watered very sparingly. Shrubby plants, espe- cially those which bud and blossom in winter, and the early part of spring, as the several varieties of the Acacias, Aza- leas, Calceolarias, Coireas, Coronillas, Daphnes, Diosmas, Eupatoriums, Eutaxias, Fuchsias, Gnidias, Heaths, Laurus- tinuses, Lemon trees, Rhododendrons, Orange trees, &c., will require water once or twice a week, according to cir- cumstances, and air should be given at all opportunities, or the plants will not blossom in perfection. For the benefit of such as may wish to raise early plants from seed, or to force Dahlia or other roots, I subjoin the following brief directions for making a small hot-bed : In a border exposed to the morning sun, let a pit be dug about thirty inches deep, five feet wide, and six long ; this will admit of two sashes, each three feet by five. A frame of suitable dimensions may be made of plank ; the back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones sloped so as to make a fifteen-inch plank do for the front. The frame being made, set it over the pit, and then get a load of horse dung, fresh from the livery stables, (not such as has lain long, or may have been soddened with ^vater,) spread it evenly in the pit until full, then put into the frame rich light mf)uld, or compost, to the depth of ten or twelve inches, and the seed may be sown as soon as it gets warm. It may be necessary to observe, that in making hot-beds, the quantity of top mould should be regulated according to the substance of the manure in the pit, and this may varv according to the 13 14G MONTHLY CALENDAR. use llie beds are intended for, or to other circumstance^. After the seed are sown, the beds will require constant atten- tion ; cover up warm in cold nights, and give air at all oppor tunities, to prevent the plants from growing weak. As we are subject to northwest winds at this season, which jsroduce extreme freezing, it will be better to delay the making of hot-beds to the first week in March, at which time opportunities will ficqucntly offer of giving plants a tolera- ble share of salubrious air, which is indispensable to their preservation. MARCH. The " Yellow Crocus," in her simple dress, And the '^pale Primrose," chaste in lovehness. Though the fierce Storm Kint; rides upon the gale, Foretel of Spring, 'midst snow and cutting hail. As the spring progresses, the external air will be soft and salubrious ; at which time it should be freely admitted to plants kept in rooms and green-houses. In pi-oportion as the plants get air, they should have water applied from the rose of a watering-pot. Monthly Roses will require attention this mouth. It should be recollected, that it is from the young wood of these plants that buds are to be expected ; their growth should, there- fore, be encouraged, by admitting sun and air at all oppor- tunities, and water when necessary. Pvhnnlas. There are several species of plants imderthis name, which exhibit their blossoms in March and April; some of which are very beautiful, as the Polyanthus, English Spring Flowers, Auricula, &c. ; but I would now direct the reader's attention to the Chinese varieties, some of which are pure white, and others of a lilac colour. They are first raised from seed sown in the spring, and will keep two or three years. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 147 Plants that are full grown, will commence blooming in December, and continue to produce umbels of flowers for five or six months, if well attended to ; they are generally in their prime this month, at which time a little water should be applied to the earth about twice a week. Many species and varieties of seed may be sown this month in hot-beds prepared as directed under the head February, page 145. Auricula, Polyanthus, and all other species of Primula seed, should now be sown. Mignonette, Ten Week Stock, and Dahlia seed, from choice varieties, may also be sown in pots, and care should be taken, when the plants are up, that they be not injured by excess of moisture. There are some splendid varieties of the Schizanthus which deseiTe attention at an early season. They are rather difficult of cultivation in pots, being apt to suffer by excess of heat or moisture ; and often, when in full bloom, die off suddenly by decays at the bottom of the stem. No plants will, however, more amply repay all the care and trouble that may be bestowed on them, than those of the elegant genus Schizanthus. The best soil for them is loam and leaf mould, with a small portion of sand. They should be re- potted as often as the pots are filled with roots, till they come into full flower. All the different varieties of tender annual, biennial, and perennial flower seed, designated thus § and thus t in our Catalogues, pages 18 and 30, may be sown this month in hot-beds, or in pots kept in the green-house. Hyacinths, Narcissus, and other bulbs in glasses, must have the water shifted every week, and the glasses should be thoroughly washed every two or three weeks, 96. Toward the end of the month, roots of Amaryllis formo- sissima, Gladiolus psiltacinna, Tiger Flower, Tuberose, and such other bulbs as may have been preserved dry through the winter, may now be planted in pots and kept in a green- house or light room, or else plunged in a hot-bed. Those 148 MONTHLY CALENDAR. who have no such conveniences may, however, delay the planting of sound bulbs, until the weather will admit of their being planted in warm borders. Dahlia roots should now be plunged in a hot-bed, to for- ward them, with a view to their being separated, as soon as the eyes are discernible, 77. APRIL. As Nature feels the sun's life-giving rays. And genial showers now mark the lengthen'd days, Buds and sweet blossoms, redolent of Spring, To meditation soothing moments bring. This is the most important month in the year for gardening operations. If not done toward the end of the last month, the covering must be taken from hardy flowering plants early in this month, and the beds and borders attended to as directed, pages 22 and 37 ; at the same time, clip edgings of box, and clean, re-lay, or make new gravel walks, &c., 15 ; prune and transplant flowering shrubs, 39 and 53 ; trans- plant also hardy herbaceous plants, 34 and 35. Sow flower seed ; the hardiest may be sown in the open borders, and the tender in hot-beds, 23 and 33. All the soil of a garden should be dug this month, if pos- sible, and pulverized as directed, 22 and 65. It will be necessary to look over all the green-house plants in the early part of this month ; let them be deprived of dead wood, if any, by a careful pruning ; at the same time take off" all yellow leaves ; the earth at the top of the pots should be loosened, so as to admit the sun and air to the roots of the plants, 99 and 101. If insects prevail on Roses or other plants, a fumigation with tobacco will be necessary. Bulbous roots will require some attention this month ; those in bloom in the garden should be tied up to wires or MONTHLY CALENDAR. 149 small sticks ; and those kept inside should be watered in proportion as they get heat and air. The Calla, or Ethiopian Lily, and the different varieties of Rhododendrons, will need frequent watering while in bud and blossom. Au must be admitted freely to all green-house plants toward the end of this month, in order to prepare them for the exposure of the open garden next month. For the method of niauaging Dahlia roots, see page 77 ; prepare to plant tender bulbous roots toward the end of this, or early in the next month. The following should be for- ward*?d in pots, which may be kept in a gieen-house or warm room, or they may be plunged in a hot-bed : Amai'yllises, 67 ; Gladioluses, 80 ; Lilies, 84 ; Tuberoses, 92 ; Tiger Flowers, 93. Hydrangeas, Pomegranates, Verbenas, and other decidu- ous shrubby plants, should be cultivated early in this month, to promote the production of leaf and flower-buds. Biennial seed, such as Wall Flower and Stock GillyFlower, also all kinds of tender perennials, should be sown this month, if not previously done in the green-house, or in hot- beds, 23, 33, and 103. For an exhibition of the order of the flowering tribe in this month and the next, the reader is referred to an article, entitled * The Beauties of April and May,' pages 54 to 62. MAY. The blue ey'd May, rejoicing in her train. Spreads her green mantle o'er the grove and plain ; From beds of Violets grateful odours rise In fragrant incense to benignant skies. As the warm weather progresses, the gardener should be on the alert, in order to conquer the various kinds of insects. Burn tobacco leaves in the green-house, so as to fumigate 13* 150 MONTHLY CALENDAR. the plants well, before they are removed into the open gar- den ; and such plants as may show any indications of being infested with the eggs of insects, should be sponged with soapsuds, and afterward well syiinged and watered. Fre- quent sprinkling from the rose of a watering-pot will pre- vent insects from accumulating; especially if tliu vvuLui be impregnated with tobacco, by a bag of the leaves being steeped tlifjiein a, few hours previous to using it. Choice Geraniums will need atteniion this month, in order that they may exhibit their flowers to advantage. When in full bloom, care should be taken not to wet the foliage or flowers ; but this may be done freely before the buds are expanded. If awnings were not provided last month for the protec- tion of choice flowers, it should be attended to early in this month, 69, 81, and 92 ; plant Amaryllises, 68 ; Double Dahlias, 78 and 79 ; Gladioluses, 80 ; Lilies, 84 ; Tuberose, 92 ; Tiger Flowers, 93 ; sow annual, biennial, and perennial flower seed in the open borders, 23 to 33. Attend to the walks, edgings, &c., and see that tall plants are neatly tied to sticks, wires, or stakes, 15, 21, 79, and 81. Procure and plant such perennial plants as may be necessary to make variety in the flower beds, 34. Green-house plants may be set out about the middle of the month, and it should be done in cloudy weather, in order that they may be prepared gradually for the shining of the sun ujjon them. A situation exposed to the sun for only one half the day is preferable for most plants, especially if they can be shaded at noon, 35. Many plants, such as Coronillas, Heaths, Aucubas, Myi"- tles. Oleanders, and several other sorts, are subject to be in- fested with white and brown scaly insects ; if these cannot be effectually taken from the plants by washing and spung- ing, let the plants be headed down early in the month of May, and if they are well attended to, new branches will shoot out on the old stem. MONTHLY CALENDAR. 151 Such Orange trees as were budded last July or August, should be headed down early in this month. Auriculas, Polyanthus, and Daisies, should be separated into single tufts, and planted in a shady border for increase, as soon as they have done blossoming. Such Carnations as may have been wintered in frames should now be exposed to the open air, in the flower borders Tulips, which will be in full perfection by the middle of this month, will require constant attention. Such green-house plants as may have done blossoming may be pruned this month, and if the cuttings be planted at this time they will strike freely, 101. Cuttino-s of Salvia splendens and fidgens will produce strong plants for blossoming in August, if planted early in this month. Chrysanthemum cuttings should now be put down, and the suckers divided, and planted singly in bor- ders, or in pots, for flowering in the autumn, 102. JUNE. The blushing glory and the pride of June, Blooms the red Rose — why should it fade so soon ! E'en the gay Tulip finds a rival here, Though rich in tints, warm, delicate, and clear. The principal sowing season may be considered as past ; but if any failures should have happened of former sowings, seed may be sown the early part of this month, which, if kept watered occasionally, will grow quickly. Green-house plants will need watering every evening, in dry warm weather ; and in the absence of dews, some sorts may need a little in the morning at sunrise, 100 ; Hydran- geas, Daisies, Polyanthus, Primulas, &c., should be kept shaded from the noonday sun, or they will droop, and some may die. Carnations and Pinks will need frequent waterings at the roots, and the branches should be tied neatly to rods 152 MONTH! r CALENDAR. Such flowering shrubs as may have been jilanted late in the spring season, should be regularly watered in dry weather. Give frequent waterings to the flower beds, in general ; cut down dead flower stalks ; remove decayed plants, and care- fully replace them with vigorous ones from the nursery bed. Transplant annual flower plants into the regular beds vnth a small trowel, or neat dibble, 27. Plant Colchicums, 70 ; finish planting Dahlias, and pro- vide poles for their support, 78 and 79 j water them occa- sionally in dry weather. Many sorts of bulbous roots will be ripe by the end of this month ; these should be taken up and dried as directed, page 65. Those cultivated in pots should not be watered after the foliage is decayed, until the period of re-germina- tion takes place, 66 and 94. Numerous beautiful flowers exhibit themselves this month, some of which are noticed in an article, entitled ' The Beauties of April and May,' page 54 to 62. There are, however, several others worthy of notice, which are omitted in that article. The several species of Phlox are remarka- bly showy plants, and very desirable to cultivate, as they blossom in their several varieties the whole season. Beside these, are the splendid varieties of Roses, Pinks, Lychnises, Sweet Williams, Fox Gloves, Snap-dragons, Perennial Lu- pins, Verbenas, Veronicas, Valerians, &c. These should all be attended to, and their branches tied to neat stakes, so as to enable them to exhibit their flowers to the greatest possi- ble advantage. Dahlias that are intended for blossoming this year should be planted by the middle of this month, if not done before, 78. MONTHLY CALENDAR. l/>3 JULY. Pinks and Carnations, ye are fair to view, Creative wisdom shines in every hue; Ye raise tlie mind, improve the human heart, And goodly precepts gracefully impart. Green-house plants will need daily care at this season ; let them be watered every evening in dry weather. Such Geraniums as may have grown large and unwieldly, should now be pruned, in order that their size and appearance may be improved, 101. Garden Roses, having done flowering for the season, should also be pruned. Cut out all old exhausted wood, and where it is too thick and crowded, shorten such shoots as have flowered, to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accompanied with a healthy leaf. All wood that grows after this pruning will ripen perfectly, and produce large flowers the ensuing year. If dry warm weather, it may be necessary to water such flowering shrubs and Roses as were planted in the spring; and if Dahlia plants could be watered two or three times a week, it would be beneficial to their growth. Give regular sprinklings from the rose of a watering-pot, or syringe, to shrubby plants in general, but particularly Camellias, Orange and Lemon trees, &c., in order to keep them in a healthy state. Such bulbous roots in pots, whose foliage has withered, should be kept dry until the period of re-germination, 66 and 94 ; others may be taken up as soon as npe, after which the offsets may be parted off", and botli these and the parent bulbs dried for planting in autumn, 65. The flower garden should be kept weeded and watered, and the seed gathered as they ripen ; apply neat rods to tall- growing and running kinds of plants. Nip off curled and dead leaves, and destroy insects, 15. Orange and Lemon trees may be budded at any time tnis month, and those which were headed down in the sonne" 154 MONTHLY CALENDAR. should be examined, and all superfluous shoots must be pruned off with a sharp knife, leaving only the strongest; the tops of wliich should be pruned off to promote their branching. Myrtles, Oleanders, and sucli other plants as may have been headed down in May, will need similar treatment. Carnations, Pinks, Pansies, Running Verl)enas, &c., may be layed this month for propagation, 33 and 34 ; many kinds of cuttings, as Geraniums, Roses, and exotic shrubs, may still be planted with success, 50. AUGUST. Brief is the mission of the fragile Flowers ; Some droop and die e'er close the sunny hours ; Just as a maiden, in life's opening bloom, Lamented sinks into an early tomb. Green-house plants will need particular attention this month. They should be watered every evening in dry weather, and as soon as tlig extreme heat of the summer is past, which is generally by the latter end of this month, or early in the next, preparation must be made for replenish ing with fresh compost, and re-potting such plants as are in tended to be cultivated through the winter in a green-house, light room, or garden frames. Previous to the commence- ment of this business, let such compost as is suited to the various kinds of plants be provided, 101. Those who may have a number of plants in various sized pots, should provide a few new pots a size larger than the liirgest in use ; the largest plants being shifted into the new pols, leaves the next sized pots for the second-sized plants, and by pursuing this plan of shifting until the whole are done, the smallest pots will be left for such plants as have been propagated in the course of the summer. The shifting of plants requires considerable attention and judgment, as some plants, if kept in too large pots, will sus- tain considerable injury : therefore, in such cases, where the MONTHLY CALENDAR. 155 fibrous roots have not spread around the pot, nothing more is necessary than to rub off a little of the outside mould, and then to substitute fresh compost for the roots to run in. Such plants as may liave become pot-bound, and whose roots are matted around the pot, will, in many cases, bear reducing. If the matted roots are carefully pared oif, and the plants shifted into good fresh compost, they will soon take root, and gtow freely ; but it will be necessary to prune off all surplus branches of the jjlants previous to re-potting them, and to shade them for a week or ten days. Pieces of tile, or broken pots, should be laid over the aper- ture at the bottom of the pots, to enable the surplus moisture to diain off', or the roots will sustain injury. The flower beds will need attention this month. Water Dahlias and (jther choice plants in dry weather ; cut down all decayed ilower stalks, as soon as the seed is gathered, and pull up annuals as they cease to flower. Plant Oxalises in small pots, 86, and prepare compost for other tender bulbs to be planted in pots next month. Rose shrubs. Orange, and Lemon trees, &c., &c., should be budded early in this month, if not done before. SEPTEMBER. still some with vigour lift their lordly heads, Imparting splendour to their cultured beds, In lustrous colours decked, they proudly shine, And look enchanting to their last decline. Such green-house plants as may have been re-potted and pruned in the course of the last month, should be looked over, and if they have taken root, they should be exposed gradually to the sun, and watered moderately in dry weather. If any of the green-house plants were plunged in the flower beds, they should be taken up and pruned early in this month, and then put into suitable sized pots, 35. 15G MONTIir.Y CALF.NDAR. Half-hardy j)eTcnnirils, such as Carnations, Daisies, Pri- mulas, Lilies, Hydrangeas, (Sec, sliould be taken up, divided carei'ully at the roots, and then put into moderate sized pots, and attended to as before directed for green-house plants. Many hardy kinds of Hower seed may be sown this month, 24 and 34. This is a good season to propagate all kinds of hardy perennial plants, by parting the roots ; and those that were raised from seed in the spring, may be transplanted into regular flower beds, in cloudy or wet weather, 27 and 35. Plant Crown Imperials, 69 ; Persian Cyclamens, 70 ; Ixias, 82 ; Lachenalias, S3 ; Lilies, 84 ; Ornithogalums, 86 ; Oxalses, 86. Sucli Chrysanthemums as are intended to be protected while in blossom, should now be taken up and planted in moderate sized pots, 102. Seeds of Schizanthus, Ten-week Stock, Mignonette, and such other species as may be desired to decorate the parlor or green-house, should be sown this month, 103. OCTOBER. Ling'ring and lonely on their trembling stems, Surviving yet, arc Flora's latest gems ; Their hour arrives, brown Autumn's parting breath Sighs o'er the Dafiluis and proclaims their death ! In the early part of this month, preparation must be made for the housing of green-house })lants. Previous to this being done, let the room or gieen-house be whitewashed with lime, which will prove pernicious to insects, and prevent their generating among the plants. Begin the first week in this month to place all the shrubby plants, such as Orange and Lemon trees, on the back shelves; others should be so placed that they can be cultivated to advantage, and they should all be arranged in regular grada tion, so as to have the low-growing or dwarf plants on the front shelves. MONTHLV CALENDAR. 157 Stock Gillies and Wall Fovvers should be taken up, potted, and kept in a shady situation until they have taken root. Such Dahlia plants as have been cultivated in pots should be sheltered from the chilling air, and those in the ground will need attention, 65 and 66. Prepare the ground for all the hardy kinds of bulbous flower roots, 64 and 65. Toward the end of the month plant Anemones and Ranunculuses, 68 ; Crocuses, 69 ; Crown Imperials, 69 ; Gladioluses, 80 ; Hyacinths, 81 ; Irises, 82 ; Ixias, 82 ; Jonquils, 83 ; Lilies, 84 ; Narcissus, 85 ; Ornitho- galums, 86 ; Paeonies, 87 ; Tulips, 92. For the management of bulbous roots in pots and glasses, see pages 94 to 96. Pi'une flowering shrubs, and make new plantations of them, 53. Chrysanthemums should be neatly tied up to small sticks, and watered occasionally with liquid manure, to promote their blossoming in full perfection. Those in pots intended to be protected for late flowering, should be watched and taken in, on. the appearance of a frosty night; they may, however, be exposed to the air as much as possible when it is soft and salubrious, as should all other half-hardy plants, 101 and 102. NOVEMBER. As the sweet flowers — men flourish and decay ; Howe'er they shine they qiiickly pass away; If Virtue bless'd them in their mortal lut, Each has an epitaph, " Furgtt me not" During the continuance of mild weather, green-house plants should have air at all opportunities, and water in pro- portion as heal and air are attainable, 99 and 100. Bulbous roots in pots and glasses wll also need attention, 94 to 96. Half-hardy plants, such as Stock Gillies, Wall Flowers, Carnations, Primulas, Hydrangeas, Daisies, &c., must either be placed, in frames or in a green-house early in this month. 14 158 MONTHLY CALENDAR. If Dahlia, Tuberose, and other tcTulev roots were not taken up last month, let it be done in due lime this month, 65 and 66. Cover up flower beds with leaves, straw, (jr light litter, 37 ; finish planting Indbous roots before the frost sets in. Plant Anemones and Ranunculuses, 68; Crocuses, 69; Hyacinths, 81 ; Irises, 82 ; Ixias, 82 ; Jonquils, 83 ; Lilies, 84 ; Narcissus, 85 ; Pajonies, 87 ; Tulip, 88 to 92. These, and all other kinds of plants, will need protection before the setting in of the winter, 65 and 66. Flowering and oi'namental shrubs may be planted in rnild weather, 53 ; lay long litter round the roots of them, and also of the Grape vines and other tender plants, shrubs, &c. Before the winter sets in severely, let such Chrysanthe- mums as may have been cultivated in pots be planted in the garden, or as soon as they have done blossoming, 102. Plant Gladioluses in pots, 80 ; also such other bulbous roots as may be re(|uired to be kept in rooms, page 95. Migntniette, and other tender seedling plants under pro- tection, will require attention at this season ; they should not be over-watered, or the plants will perish with mildew. Camellias should be frequently syringed while in bud, or watered over the foliage with a rose attached to the water- ing pot, as should all other shrubby plants. DECEMBER. Descending snow, the yellow leaf and sear, Are indications of old Time's career ; The careful florist tends his sheltered plants. Studies their nature, and supplies their wants. If all was not done as directed last month, there is now no time to be lost. All kinds of tender plants in pots should be set into frames or pits, and plunged in old tan or light mould ; and in the event of severe frosts, coverings of mats, straw, &c., must be laid over them. MONTHLY CAT.F.NDAR. 159 Green-house plants will need constant care and attention. When water is necessary, let it be given in mild weather, 99. In case of accidents happening from fiost, I would remark, that the sudden transition from cold to heat is often more de- structive to plants than frost itself. If plants get frozen, and cannot be screened from the rays of the sun, they should be watered as the air gets warm, and before they begin to thaw. If sufficient attention be paid, so as to have the temperature of the house rise gradually as the water is sprinkled over the leaves, it may be a means of preserving plants that would otherwise be destroyed. See that the green-house, or room, in which plants are kept, is so secure as to prevent the intrusion of cold air, or the departure of warm air in the night season. Collect from heaths and rocks such kinds of earth as are suited to the different species of exotic plants, and gather up leaves of trees. If you intend to make hot-beds of them, they should be put together dry ; but if you intend them for compost, they may be laid together as wet as possible, in order that they may rot, for use in succeeding years. 160 THE MATRIMONI.M, GARDEN. Tuv. Author has apj)enJcd tlie following article, entitled * The Mathimomal Garden,' under the impression that it was a})pro[)riate to the subject treated of in this work, and would prove acceptable to most of his readers, especially to the fair sex. THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. Man is formed for social enjoyment, and if it be allowed that " It is not good for man to be alone," it may be justly inferred that it is not good for woman to be alone ; hence a union of interests indicates a union of persons for their mu- tual benefit. By this union, a sort of seclusion from the rest of our species takes place ; and as a garden is a retired apartment, appropriated to culture and improvement, the married state may not inaptly be compared with it in many respects. It is good and honoujable for the humun species, pru- dently and cautiously to approach tliis delightful enclosure. Its entrance is usually extremely gay and glittering, being strewed with flowers of every hue and every fragrance cal- culated to charm the eye and please the taste ; but they are not all so ; and as there are many persons who may wish to enter this garden at some time or other, who are yet stran- gers to its various productions, their attention should be di- rected to the cultivation of those i)lants which aie beneficial, and to the avoiding or rooting up of those which are injurious. TnE IMATRIMONIAI, GARDRN. 161 And first, let rae caution adventurers in this garden not to dream of permanent happiness ; if you should so dream, experience will soon make you wiser, as such happiness never existed but in the heads of visionaries. If you are desirous that this garden shall yield you all the bliss of which it is capable, you must take with you that excellent flower cabled Good Humour, which, of all the flowers of nature, is the most delicious and delicate ; do not drop it or lose it, as many do, soon after they enter the garden ; it is a treasure the loss of which nothing can supply. When you get to the end of the first walk, which contains about thirty steps, t com- monly called " The Honey Moon Path," you will find the garden open into a vast variety of views, and it is necessary to caution you to avoid many productions here which are noxious, nauseous, and even fatal in their nature and ten- dency, especially to the ignorant and unwary. There is a low, small plant which may be seen in almost every path, called Indifference. Though this is not perceived on enter- ing, you will always know where it grows, by a certain cold- ness in the air which surrounds it. Contrary to the nature of plants in general, this glows by cold and dies by warmth ; whenever you perceive this change in the air, avoid the place as soon as you can. In the same path is often found that baneful flower called Jealousy, which I advise you never to look at, for it has the strange quality of smiting the eye that beholds it with a pain that is seldom or never got rid of. Jealousy is a deadly flower ; it is the aconite of the garden, and has marred the happiness of thousands. As you proceed, you will meet with many little crooked paths. I advise you, as a friend, never to go into them ; for although, at the entrance of each, it is written in large letters, I am right, if you do enter, and get to the end of them, you will find the true name to be Perverseness. These crooked paths occasion endless disputes ; and as it is difficult to make the crooked straight, it is better to avoid t Thirty days. 14* 162 THE MATRIMOMAI, GARDEN. them alfoQ[ctlier, lest, as sometimes happens, a total separa- tion be the consequence, and you take ditierent paths the rest of your lives. Near this spot you will meet with a rough, sturdy plant, called Obstinacy, which bears a hard knotty fruit that never digests, and of course must injure the constitution; it even becomes fatal, when taken in large quantities. Turn from it ; avoid it as you would the cholera. Just opposite to this grows that lovely and lively shrub called CoMi'LiANCE, which, though not always pleasant to the palate, is veiy salutary, and leaves a sweetness in the mouth ; it is a most excellent shrub, and produces the most delicious fruit. Never be witiiout a very large sprig in your hand ; it will often be wanted as you go along, for you cannot be happy without it in any part of the garden. In one of the principal compartments stands a very im- portant plant, called Economy ; it is of a thriving quality ; cultivate this fine plant with all your care, for it adorns and enriches at the same time. Many overlook it, some despise it, and others think that they may never want it ; it is gene- rally overlooked in the gayety and levity with which people enter this place, but the want of it is generally deplored with bitter repentance. There are two other plants of the same species, which are very closely connected, called Industry and Frugality, and I must take leave to tell you, that unless both the male and the female partake largely of their branches, very little success can be expected ; in this they must both nnitc. Take care that you provide yourself and partner with a supj)ly of each as soon as possible after you enter the garden. There are two or three paths which run much into one another ; in them you will find growing interspersed three plants, which deserve the closest attention of the softer sex; these are called Regularity, Exactness, and Simplicity, f Do not think, as some do, that when you have once got into the garden, you maybe neglectful of these plants. Remem t In deportment as well as in dress. THE MATRIMONIAL GARDEN. 1G3 ber that your companion will see your negl(.;ct, which will affect his eye, and may alienate his heart. Bestow a large share of attention on these plants, then, as soon as you enter the garden, for when you are once fairly in, you are in for life ; the danger is, that if you neglect them at an early period, you will not find them afterward. Near these walks is to be found that modest plant, called Humility : It is the Violet, " born to blush unseen, And waste its sweetness on the desert air." It appears of little worth in itself, but when joined to other virtues, it adds a charm to life, and spreads a fragrance around its wearer. Cultivate, then, with all your care, this sweet little plant, and you will find it prevent the growth of all poisonous and noxious weeds. Allow me also to drop a hint on the subject of Cultivation, as connected with I'ropagation, as that most probably will be your employment in this garden, sooner or later. Should you have the rearing of a young plant, remember that it is frail in its nature, and liable to be destroyed by every blast, and will demand all your care and attention. Should you witness a blast on its dawning beauties, O ! how your fond heart will bleed with tenderness, affection, and sympathy ! The young shoot will naturally twine around all the fibres of your frame. Should it live and thrive, spare no pains to " train it up in the way it should go." Weed it, water it, prune it ; it will need all your skill. Without this, many weeds and baneful plants will grow up with it, and blast your fondest hopes. Be ever mindful that this is a trust for which both parties are accountable. Without careful cultivation, what can you expect but the most luxuriant growth of unruly appetites, which, in time, will break forth in all manner of disgraceful irregularities 1 What, but that Anger, like a prickly thorn, will arm the temper with an untractable moroseness 1 That Peevishness, like a stinging nettle, will render the conversation irksome 104 THE MATRIMONIAL GARDKN. and forbidding 1 That Avarice, like some choaking weed, will teach the fingers to gi'ipe, and the hands to oppress 1 That IIevengk, like some poisonous plant, replete with bane- ful juices, will rankle in the breast, and meditate mischief to its neighbour ? While unbridled Lust, like swarms of noisome insects, taint each rising thought, and render " every imagination of the heart only evil continually." Such are the usual products of unrestrained nature ! such the fumi ture of the uncultivated mind ! By all means, then, pay due attention to culture. By suitable discipline, clear the soil ; by careful instruction, ira plant the seed of virtue. By skill and vigilance, prune the unprofitable and over-luxuriant branches : " direct the young idea how to shoot," the wayward passions how to move. The mature man will then become the chief ornament of the garden. Around him Charity will breathe her sweets, and in his branches Hope expand her blossoms. In him the personal virtues will display their graces, and the social ones their fruit ; the sentiments become generous, the car- riage endearing, the life useful, and the end happy and peaceful. THE YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT. PART III. FRUIT DEPARTMENT. CONTENTS. OBSERVATIONS ON THE ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. Page. Suggestions on the choice of a situation for an orchard, 7 Of the best methods of preparing the various kinds of soil, 8 Directions for transplanting fruit trees, - - - 9 A communication from a friend, showing his plan of replanting trees, ------- H Hints on the arrangement of trees, with a view to ob- tain successional crops of fruit. — Different soils described, suited to the various kinds of fruit, - 12 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS AND DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Remedies for the prevention and destruction of insects, 13 The best methods of curing diseases in fruit trees, - 14 Composition to be used as a wash for fruit trees, at the time of pruning, ------ 16 Some of the most annoying insects and reptiles described, 16 An earnest appeal to all agriculturists and horticultu- rists, showing the importance of encouraging the inhabitants of cities to preserve their ashes and soot in a dry state, for use on the land, - - 17 OBSERVATIONS ON TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. The primary object of pruning explained, - - - 21 Several methods described of pruning and training the vine, &:c. 22 The benefits arising from judicious pruning, - - 23 Necessary Implements for pruning, &c. - - - 24 n CONTENTS. BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Page. Information respecting the time and manner of budding fruit trees, 25 On the choice of scions, and mode of preparing the stocks, 27 Cleft Grafting, Side Grafting, and Whip Grafting ex- plained, 28 Saddle Grafting, Root Graftiiig, and Grafting by Ap- proach, defined, ---.-..29 Directions for making Forsyth's composition, - - 30 Recipes for preparing liquids for washing the stems and branches of trees, - - - - - -31 Instructions for making grafting clay and composition, 32 ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. Rules for judging the qualities of fruit trees, - - 33 Directions for the management of Stone Fruits, to pre- vent their gumming at the roots, - - - 34 A guide to the selection of distinct varieties of fruit, - 35 Apple. Its history, cultivation, propagation, &c. - 37 Seventy-six of the choicest varieties of Apples described, 39 Apricot. The best method of training, pruning, &c. explained, 46 Select descriptive list of Apricots, - - - - 49 Almond. Its history, mode of culture, &c. - - 50 Cherry. The various kinds enumerated, with direc- tions for their cultivation, - - - - - 51 Thirty-one of the most esteemed varieties described, - 53 Chestnut. Its durability and other peculiar charac- teristics adverted to, 56 Cranberry. Its adaptation for garden culture exem- plified, 57 Currant. The best mode of cultivation shown, - - 58 Select descriptive list of Currants, - - - - 60 Fig. a fruit well calculated for cultivation in the United States, 61 CONTENTS III Page. The operation of Girdling or Ringing Trees explained, 62 Seventeen of the best varieties of Figs described, - 63 Gooseberry. Descnption of fifty-eight of the most celebrated varieties, ------ 66 An improved method of managing the Gooseberry, - 70 Grape. The peculiar characteristics of the Grape Vine defined, ----....72 The different manures adapted to the vine enumerated, 75 On the various methods of propagating, grafting, &zc. - 76 Select descriptive list of foreign and native grapes, - 77 Doctor G. W. Chapman's and Mr. Wm. Wilson's suc- cessful experiments on their vines, - - - 79 Edward H. Bonsall's Vineyard Culture explained, - 80 Doctor R. T. Underbill's account of his vineyard at Croton Point, 83 Concluding observations on training, pruning, and cul- tivating the vine, . - . . . 85 Mulberry. Some of the most useful species described, with directions for their propagation and cultivation, 88 Nectarine. Important hints, calculated to give this scarce but delicious fruit the best possible chance of success, if strictly attended to, - . - 91 Select descriptive list of Nectarines, - - - - 94 Orange, Lemon, &;c. The several species of this fniit enumerated, &c. ------ 96 Peach. An elaborate review of the means best calcu- lated to overcome the difficulties attending the cul- tivation of this important fruit, - - - - 98 Sixty-one of the best varieties of Peaches described, - 105 Pear. A definition of the different qualities of this fruit, with diiections for its propagation and culti- vation, --..--.- Ill Observations on the alleged deteiioration of the Pear, and other fruits, - - - - - - -113 Eighty-eight of the most esteemed varieties of the Pear described, 115 IV CONTENTS. Page. Plum. The means best adapted for the perfection of this fruit explained, ------ 124 Fifty-three of the finest varieties of Phims described, - 126 Quince. Its history, its use, and method of culture ex- plained, -------- 131 Raspbekry. All the most celebrated species and varie- ties enumerated, ------ 132 Select descriptive list of Raspberries, - - - - 135 Strawbeury. The valuable properties of the Straw- berry, with directions for its cultivation, - - 136 A descriptive list of the most esteemed species and varieties of Strawberries, ----- 138 Walnut. Its use both as a fruit and timber ti'ee, - 140 CALENDAR AND INDEX. January. — An essay on the importance of improving the various species of fruit, by propagating none but the finest specimens for seed, and by amelio- rating the existing kinds by Cross Fertilization ; which process is explained in a clear and compre- hensive manner, 143 February. — An attempt to prepare the young gardener for the timely performance of his work in the or- chard and fruit garden, in a judicious manner, by directing his attention to such business as can be done in unfavourable weather, that he may be en- abled to give prompt attention to other important business before the rise of the sap, and thus jsrevent much anxiety and labour, ----- 147 March. — Directions for pruning Grape Vines, and Ap- ple, Cherry, Pear, and Quince Trees; for culti- vating Cranberries, Currants, Gooseberries, Rasp- berries, &c.; for preparing the ground for the reception of all kinds of fruit trees as soon as the weather becomes favourable ; for supporting newly planted trees by means of stakes, &c. - - « 149 CONTENTS. Page. April. — Attention is directed to the pruning of fruit trees, including Apricot, Almond, Fig, Mulberry, Nectarine, Peach, Plum, &c. ; also, to the cultiva- tion and propagation of trees, shrubs, and vines, by cuttings, layers, grafting, and other methods, - 151 May. — The gardener is reminded of the importance ol finishing the work that was left undone last month without further delay; and of attending to the de struction of insects while in a torpid state, and the preservation of the Gooseberry and other fruits from mildew. By cultivating Raspberries and Strawberries as directed in April and June, such fruits may be produced at a late season. - - 153 June. — The business of this month in the fruit garden consists of summer pruning, clearing the trees and vines of dead leaves and insects, and of protecting and cultivating early fruit to promote its ripening in full perfection, ..-_-- 155 July. — Remedies for the protection of fruit from birds and ants, and for preserving Grape Vines from mildew. Judicious summer pruning, and atten- tion to Figs, Vines, &c., recommended, - - 158 August. — As insects are engendered in vast quantities by the heat of our summers, the attention of gar- deners is directed to the use of bitter and acrid substances, which being made into a compost, is calculated to improve the land, as well as to destroy insects, ..---.-- 158 September. — The subject treated of under this month relates chiefly to the rejection of various fruits, by many cultivators, and to the propensity of some persons to neglect old inmates of the garden for the sake of trying other varieties, merely because they are new, ---.-.- 160 VI CONTENTS. Paje. October. — It ia suggested that attention be paid to the careful gathering of fruit, while in a perfect state ; also to the preservation of Grapes, &c. Directions for planting the pits of Cherry, Peach, Plum, &c., and the kernels of Apple, Pear, and Quince ; also for preparing the ground for the reception of all kinds of hardy fruit trees on the decline of the sap, 162 November. — As winter is fast approaching, it is recom- mended to protect tender vines, trees, shrubs, and plants, including Raspberry, Fig, Strawberry Plants, &c.; and to plant hardy fruit trees while the land is susceptible of being tilled, - - - 163 December. — At all favourable opportunities during this month the gardener is directed to prune hardy fruit trees, to sciupe ofl'all the moss and canker, and to wash the stems and branches with a liquid pre- pared according to a recipe given, ... 164 An Address to the People of the United States on the subject of an alleged discovery on Terra- Culture, submitted to the attention of the 25th and 26th Congress, 165 A summary view of estimates, funiished with a view to aid the Seedsman and Gardener in making out a bill of seed, for the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the vegetable department of the Young Gar- deners Assistant, .----. 170 OBSERVATIONS " FRUIT GARDEN AND ORCHARD. In the preliminary observations on the subjects already treated of, I am aware that it may appear to some that I have not sufficiently urged the importance of a judicious selection of situation, exposure, aspect, soil, &c. My object in not insisting on a strict attention to these important points was, because I know that, though good land is abundant in this extensive country, it is impossible for every one to choose for himself; and rather than any disadvantages in these respects should discourage proprietors of land from attempt- ing to raise garden products, so necessary to the comfort and convenience of eveiy family, I have endeavoured to show them how to use to advantage whatever land may surround their places of abode. As, however, some have a choice, it may be necessary to offer some farther remarks on the subject. The situation of an Orchard or Fruit Garden should be one that has the advantage of a free circulation of air, and is exposed to the south, with a slight inclination to the east and southwest. When the situation is low and close, the trees are very liable to become mossy, which always injures them, by closing up the pores of the wood ; they are also more liable to be affected by blight. Although having an orchard closely pent up by trees, &c., is injurious, neverthe- less a screen of forest trees, at such a distance from the fruit trees as that the latter will not be shaded by them, is of very great service in protecting the trees in spring from severe cold winds. 8 0B?:KR,VATI0XS OX THE A good Strong loamy soil, not too retentive of moisture, to the depth of thirty inches, or three feet, is most suitable for an orchard. Great attention must be paid to the sub- stratum, as the ground must be well drained ; for if the top soil be ever so good, and the bottom wet, it is very rarely the case that the trees prosper many years, when they begin to be diseased and go to decay. As it is so indispensably necessary to the success of fruit trees that the bottom should be dry, if it is not naturally so, it must be made so by judi- cious diaining. When it is necessary to make the bottom dry by draining, it must be done some time before the trees are planted. In performing this work, the ground must be trenched, and when the trench is open, stone, or brick-bats, &c., must be laid over the bcjttom to the thickness of six inches, a little coal ashes, or small gravel, must be sprinkled over the top of the stones, &c., and then the surface gently rolled. Drains may also be made in dilierent directions, so that any excess of moisture can be taken entirely away from the ground. It is well known to most cultivators, that exposure of soils to the atmosphere greatly iinproves them, as is experienced by ridging and trenching. Where the soil is stiff and stub- born, small gravel, sand, coal ashes, lime, light animal and vegetable manure, and other light composts, are very appro- priate substances to be applied, and will, if carefully managed and well worked into the ground, soon bring it into a proper condition for most purposes. Previous to laying out an orchard or fruit garden, the soil should be manured and pulverized to a great depth. It should be made sweet, that the nutriment which the roots receive may be wholesome ; free, that they may be at full liberty to range in quest of it ; and rich, that there may be no defect in food. If oi chards are made from meadows or pasture lands, the ground should be improved as much as possible by manur- ORCHARD AND FRt'IT GARDEN. 9 ing, trenching, ploughing, &c. If this is not done to its full extent, it should be done in strips of at least six feet in width along where the fruit trees are to be planted, and at the time of planting let the holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of suflicient depth to allow of a foot of lich and well-pulverized mould to be thrown in before the trees are planted. In transplanting trees, they should not be placed more than an inch or two deeper than they were in the nursery bed, and the earth intended for filling in should be enriched and well pulverized by mixing in some good old manure ; and if any leaves, decayed brush, rotten wood, potato tops, or other refuse of a farm, are attainable, let such be used around the trees in filling, taking care that the best pulverized mould is admitted among the fine roots. The trees in planting should be kept at ease, and several times shaken, so as to cause an equal distribution of the finer particles of earth to be con- nected with the small fibres of the roots ; and when com- pletely levelled, let the ground be well trodden down and moderately watered, which should be repealed occasionally after spring planting, if the weather should prove dry. As some difference of opinion exists among joractical men as to the best time for planting fruit trees, the following extract from Mr, Prince's Treatise on Hoi'ticulture is sub- mitted : " Seasons for Transplanting. Spring is the season when we find the most pleasure in making our rural improve- ments, and from this circumstance, probably, it has become the general season for planting trees ; but experience has proved autumn planting to be the most successful, especially in those parts of the United States which are subject to droughts, as trees planted in autumn suffer little or none from drought, when those set out in spring often perish in consequence of it. Notwithstanding, with regard to those fruits that have been originally bx'ought from warmer cli- 10 OBSERVATIONS ON THE mates, such as the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which are natives of Persia, Armenia, &c., it is necessary for us to consult the operations of climate also; and, from a consideration of those attendant circumstances, I have come to the foUovi'ing conclusions : In localities south of New- York, autumn planting is preferable only for the Apple, Pear, Plum, CheiTy, Quince, and all other trees of northern latitude; whereas, the spring is to he preferred for the Peach, Apricot, Nectarine, and Almond, which, for the reasons before stated, might, during severe winters, suflier fiom the intensity of the frosts. Still I do not mean to assert, that trees of those kinds are certain to be injured by the winter, as in very many seasons they are not in the least affected ; still they are exposed to vicissitudes which may or may not occur. Many gentlemen, however, of excellent judgment, make their plantations in the autumn, which only serves to prove, that even in the most intelligent minds a diversity of opinion exists. " Trees, etc., on their Arrival at the Place of Des- tination. As soon as the trees arrive at the place where they are to be planted, let a trench be dug in cultivated ground, the bundles unpacked, the roots well wetted, and immediately covered with earth in the trench, observing to make the earth fine that is spread over them, so as not to leave vacancies for the admission of air to dry the roots, it having been found by experience that the thriftiness of trees the first year after transplanting, depends much on the fine fibres of the roots being kept moist, and not suffered to dry from the time they are taken up until they are replanted ; their increase, therefore, must depend principally on the subsequent management on their arrival at the place of des- tination ; for if, when the bundles are unpacked, the trees are carelessly exposed to drying winds, the young fibres of the roots must perish, and the trees, if they live at all, can- not thrive the first season, as they can receive little or no nourishment until these fibres are replaced. ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. 11 *' To CAUSE THE Trees TO Thrive. The ground where they are planted must be kept cultivated ; young trees will not thrive if the grass be permitted to form a sod around them ; and if it should be necessary to plant them in grass grounds, care must be taken to keep the earth mellow and free from grass for three or four feet distant around them, and every autumn some well-rotted manure should be dug in around each tree, and every spring the bodies of the Apple, Pear, Plum, and Cherry trees, and othei's that it is particularly desirable to promote the growth of, should be brushed over with common soft soap, undiluted with water ; this treatment will give a thriftiness to the trees surpassing the expectation of any one who has not witnessed its effect. Should the first season after transplanting prove dry, regular watering will be necessary, as from neglect of proper atten- tion in this respect, many lose a large portion of their trees during a drought "* Such kinds of fruit trees treated on in this work, as may i-equire any other than good ordinaiy soil, may be supplied, * The following letter was received by the Author while he was pre- paring the copy for, the ninth edition of this work : '• In readiiit; your very useful and entertaining work on Gardening, Planting Trees, and otherwise, I need not say, to me, it contained much that was new, original, and very useful ; yet, complete as is your admirable work, I found not therein one circumstance connected wiUi replanting trees, of vital importance to be observed, particularly with those trees which have attained several years' growth, say trees from fifteen io twenty feet high, and from three to five inches diameter. Some seven or eight feet above the root, that is to say, at the time of digging up the tree, a mark should be made on the north or south side of the tree ; and on replanting the same, it should be set into the ground as nearly as possible in the same position to the sun (north or south) as it occupied before taken up, other- wise the tree will not be so thrifty ; if its sides are changed, it not unfrc- quently appears sickly, and ultimately dies. Over twenty years' experi- ence in replanting some thousands of hard and soft Maple, Elm, and others, enables me to speak positively on this precaution. Whenever the community calls for another edition of your work, in that part relating to Replanting Trees, if you deem the above suitable for insprtion therein, it might assist many who have not this knowledge, and oblige, "Yours with esteem, Jouk Clowes, C. E." 12 ORCHARD AND FRUIT GARDEN. by judicious management ; and if a proper attention be paid to the situation and as[)ect in arranging a fruit garden, each kind may be so accommodated as to promote its fruits' lipen- ing earlier or later than the ordinary season, by varying the aspect ; but Grape Viiies, or other tender fruits, should not be planted where the sun's influence does not fully operate. Where there is a great extent of close fencing or wall, it is advisable to plant trees of the same kind against different a.spects. Such as one or two May Duke Cherries against a southern aspect, which will ripen earliest ; next, against either an eastern or western ; and lastly, against a northern aspect; by observing this method with Dwarf Chenies, Plums, Gooseberries, Currants, &c., the fruit will ripen in succes- sion, and thus a supply is considerably lengthened. The early blooming fruit trees will sometimes need protection in warm aspects ; for which arrangements may be made by keeping awning, matting, netting, &c., at hand, to shelter them with in threatening weather, or to screen them from the intense heat of the sun after a frosty night ; this, with a sprinkling of water, as the air gets warm, will often prevent any serious consequences from slight frost. Those who have various soils, should suit them to the dif- ferent kinds of fruit. Apples and Pears tequire a strong loam, but the Pear rather the lightest. Apricots, Cherries, Peaches, Plums, and Nectarines, a good deal lighter than the Apple and Pear. Such fruits as may require peat, bog, or any other extraordinary kinds of earth, will be noticed as vre proceed. 13 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, DISEASES TO WHICH FRUIT TREES ARE LIABLE. Much may be written relative to the various diseases to vvrhich fruit trees are liable, and also to the prevention and destruction of the various kinds of reptiles and insects, which very frequently deprive us of the first fruits of our garden. The preventive operations are those of the best culture. Autumn j^loughing, by exposing worms, grubs, the larvae of bugs, beetles, &c., to the intense frost of our winters, and the moderate use of salt, lime, ashes, &c., are beneficial. Insects may be annoyed, and sometimes their complete destruction effected, by the use of soapsuds, lye, tar, tui'pen- tine, sulphur, pepper, soot, decoction of elder, walnut leaves, tobacco, and other bitter and acrid substances ; but perhaps the most effectual way of keeping some of the most perni- cious kinds of insects under, is to gather up such fruit as may fall from the trees, before the insects have an opportu- nity of escaping into the earth, or to other places of shelter Where trees are planted in a bad soil, or unfavourable situations, they often become diseased ; when this happens, the best remedy is good pruning, and keeping the trees clean by a free use of soap and water. If that will not do, they may be headed down, or removed to a better situation. Barrenness and disease are generally produced by the bad qualities of tne earth and air, by a want of water, or by the inroads of insects. These incidents generally show them- selves in the early part of the year. Leaves and shoots of any colour but the natural green ; curled and ragged leaves; 2 14 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, branches in a decaying state ; shoots growing from the roots, instead of from the stem or trunk ; the stem diseased in its bark, the gum oozing from various pai'ts thereof, are all proofs of the existence of disease. The Peach tree is sub- ject to a disease called the yellows ; and the discoloured leaves and feeble branches are often ascribed to the wdrms which so frequently attack the root; where these are found, they may be removed by a knife or chisel ; but if it should appear that the tree is diseased, it should be removed, to prevent other trees from being infected. The Pear, and also the Quince, and sometimes other trees, are subject to the fire blight; this malady may be completely checked on its first appearance, by cutting oft" and immediately burning the injured branches. Generally speaking, careful pi-uning, cleaning the bark all over with a brush, applying soap or tobacco water to the leaves, and occasionally putting good earth and good manure to the roots, will remedy most dis- eases in fruit trees ; removing them from a bad to a better soil will, of course, effect this, where it proceeds from a poorness of land ; for the old adage, " Remove the cause, and the effect will cease," will be here exemplified. To cure the oozing of the gum, nothing more is necessary than to cut away the diseased parts of the bark ; and by thus assisting nature in casting out the excrementitious, or nox- ious juices, a complete cure may be effected. When a tree is affected by mildew, let it be immediately sprinkled with soapsuds, and then be dusted over with sul- phur and tobacco dust, or snuff; at the same time, dig around the tree, and examine the soil and subsoil ; if it be wet and cankery, it should be taken away, and replaced with good healthy soil, and the gnjund drained ; if, on the con- trary, the ground be dry, give it a plentiful watering ; the same remedy may serve as a preventive of the extension of blight, if applied in time. When any canker is observed, the part affected must, at the time of pruning, be cut clean out, and the part thus dressed be pared, so that no water 4ND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 15 can lodge in the wound ; when this is done, let a quantity of" soot be mixed with water, and a little train oil well worked among it, but so that the mixture finally remains stiff; this may be plastered over all the wounds that have been pruned. The application of this mixture keeps out the wet from the wounds, where it would be likely to lodge, and both the soot and oil promote vegetation. When trees are cankery from having a bad subsoil, it is in vain to apply any remedy till the ground is propeily drained, some fresh soil mixed with the natural soil, and the tree replanted. When trees are known to be so situated as to be particularly liable to the attacks of insects or disease, they should be attended to at the time of winter or early spring pruning, in order to de- stroy the insects in their larvae state. The following compositions have been known to protect fruit trees from the attacks of numerous insects, by being used as awash to the trees immediately after pruning. The constitution of some trees will bear a much stronger mixture of ingredients than others ; but the proportions, as hereafter described, will not be injurious to any, but will be effectual in the destruction of the larvas of insects. For Jipricot, jycclarine, and Peach Trees. To eight gal- lons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of common sulphur, and half an ounce of black pepper. For jipjAe, Cherry, Fear, and Fliim Trees. To t'ouv gallons of water add one pound of soft soap, two pounds of com- mon sulphur, two ounces of tobacco, and one ounce of black pepper. F^or Figs and Vines. To four gallons of water add half a pound of soft soap, one pound of sulphur, and a quarter of an ounce of black pepper. All these ingredients must be boiled together for twenty minutes at least, and when in a lukewarm state, applied to the bark of the trees with a suitable brush.* * For the destruction of the Aphis which frequently attacks the Apple, as well as other IViiit trees, wliile youns, an application of diluted whale- oil soap to tile ieavea and branches has Ix'en found very efficacious. 16 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, The most destructive enemy to our fruit is the Curculio ; this insect passes the winter in the earth in a chrysalis state, and if sullered to remain unmolested by the gardener, will be ready to commen'ce its attacks at about the time the blos- soms appear on our fruit trees. The eggs are deposited in the Apple, Pear, and also all stone fruit, at a very early stage of their growth; these eggs soon hatch, and small maggots are produced, which exist in the fruit, causing it to drop off prematurely, with the little enemy within. If this fruit be gatheied np, or immediately devoured by hogs, geese, or other animals, a check may be put to their ravages in suc- ceeding years; but if suffered to remain on the ground, they will sup])ly food to myriads of their destructive race, which may not be so easily extirpated. The canker-worm is another enemy to our fruits, for the destruction of which many experiments have been tried. Some apply bandages round the body of the tree, smeared over with tar or ointment, to annoy or entrap the females in their ascent to the tree ; but as these tormentors are fre- quently on the move from November to the end of June, this must be a very tedious as well as uncertain process. As this insect is supposed to exist within four feet of the trunk of the tree, and not more than three ov four inches from the surface of the earth, good cultuie, and a moderate use of lime, ashes, or any other pernicious ingredient, is the most likely way to destroy them. The bark-louse is another pernicious insect ; they resem- ble blisters, and are so near the colour of the bark as to be imperce[)tible ; they often prove fatal to the A2ij)]e tree, by preventing the circulation of the sap. These insects may be conquered by washing the trees with soai)suds, tobacco water, lime water, or brine, or a wash may be made of soapy water, salt, and lime, thickened to the consistency of cream or paint, with sifted sand or clay, which may be applied with a brush to the trunk and limbs of the trees ; this sliould be done at the latter end of May, or early in June, and the cracks in the bark should be completely covered. AND DISEASCS OF FUUIT TREES. 17 The Apple-tree borer is said to deposit its eggs beneath the surface of the soil, and the worms are often to be found in the spring of the year, by digging round the tree, and clearing away the earth to the roots, and may be taken out with a knife oi- gouge, and destroyed. After the worms are removed the wounds should be covered over with grafting clay and wood ashes mixed, and the earth then retuined to the roots of the tree. Some use bricklayei-s' mortar early in the spring, around the base of the tree, so as to cover the part where the deposit is made, and prevent their attacks. Although our limits will not admit of a farther description of the various sorts of insects which injure our gardens, and frequently destroy the fruit of our labour, I cannot forbear directing the attention of our citizens to the importance of saving all kinds of ashes. If all agricultuiists and horticul- turists were to offer an inducement to the inhabitants of large cities, to save their ashes in a dry state, they would be supplied not only with a valuable manure, but an antidote for man)' kinds of insects ; and our citizens would be at less risk fiom fire by having a brick vault on their premises for safely keeping them. In England, a private dwelling is not considered complete without an ash-vault ; and a good farmer would dispense with his barn, rather than be destitute of an ash-house. I have known farmers to supply the cottagers with as much peat as they could burn, on condition of their saving them the ashes ; and there are some that will keep men under pay throughout the year, burning peat for the same purpose ; and anj^ thing that has passed the fire is so valuable, that a chimney-sweep will frequently clean chim- neys for the sake of the soot, which is conveyed miles into the country, and sold at a price sufiicient to reward the col- lectors, besides paying all expenses ; even the house-keep- ers' ashes in cities is a marketable article at all times, bring- ing from ten to twenty-five cents per bushel, when kept dry and clean, and a guinea a load was formerly the common price in the villages of Berkshire and Hampshire. 2* 18 OBSERVATIONS ON INSECTS, While oil this subject, I wouhl urge the importance of a spring dressing of aslies. If cultivators were to prepare turfs fri)m tanners' bark, peat-earth, coal dust mixed with clay, cow dung, &c., and get them dried in the summer season, these, by being jireserved through the winter, may be burned around fruit orchards, while the trees are in blos- som, and if the fires are properly managed, a smoke may be kept up by heaping on damp litter every niglit ; this will prove pernicious to such insects as may reside in the trees, and the ashes being spread on the ground, will seive as a means of destruction to others. An orchard thus managed every year, will need no other manure. The smoking should be effected first on one side of the plantation, and afterward on the other, or heaps may be prepared in different parts of the orchard, and fire applied according as the wind may serve to carry the smoke where it is most necessary. I know a gardener in the neighbourhood of New-York, who saved his Plums and Nectarines by burning salt hay, after its having been used as a coveiing for his Spinach ; and I have no hesitation in recommending it as an excellent reme- dy for securing fruit trees I'rom insects, especially if some coarse tobacco could be procured to add to it. The damper the materials are, in moderation, the more smoke they will create ; and if a little tar, pitch, sulj)hur, or other pernicious combustible be sprinked among them, it will be beneficial. This subject appears to me of the utmost consequence to the farmer, as well as to the community at huge ; I, there- fore, cannot foibear offering some farther observations. It must be acknowedged that, although tliis country con- tains an abundance of wood, coal, and peat, as well as almost every other description of fuel, yet the poor of our large cities, in general, suffer greatly from cold; and if all the tales of wo could be sounded in the ears of a sympa- thizing community during our severe winters, I am persuaded they would arouse them to the consideration of a remedy. It is an acknowledged fact that the poor of Europe are AND DISEASES OF FRUIT TREES. 19 cheaper and better supplied with fuel than those of this countiy. Tills arises, in a great measure, from the circum- stance of ashes being held in high estimation by agricultur- ists ; they are consequently a saleable article in their large towns and cities, at a price equal, in some instances, to half the cost of a winter's fuel. Now I would ask, how is it that ashes are not as valuable to the farmers here as they are in Europe? The extreme heat of the summer must certainly engender insects in equal if not gi'eater proportions ; and as respects matmre, it must be scarcer in some parts of this extensive country than it is in the densely peopled countries of Euiope. Perhaps some may answer, that ashes are already used by our culti- vators to a considerable extent ; but I would remind such, that from the circumstance of their being mixed up with other manures, and exposed to all sorts of weatiier, (as in our city,) they lose their virtue, so that a load may not be worth m(ne than a bushel would be, if kept dry and clean. The farmers of Europe consider peat ashes of more value than any otliers, and I am persuaded that, could they be fairly tested by some of our best cultivators, great good would result to the community. If the farmers in England can afford to keep men under pay, perpetually burning peat for the sake of the ashes, it is natural to suppose that the poor of our community may be placed in easier circumstances as respects the article of fuel. Thousands of acres of land are to be found in tlie States of New- York and New-Jersey, and within a i'ew miles of this city, which abound with peat earth ; and the owners of such have already begun to ex- j^lore their treasures of this description. Good peat is now to be had in the city at the low price of eight cents per bushel, or three dollars per chaldron. It burns well in all sorts of stoves and grates, whether made for wood or coal, and also on the hearth ; and if the ashes are not used to any better purpose than other ashes have hitherto been, it is the cheapest fut;l known. I am persuaded that this subject is 20 OBSERVATIONS, ETC. worthy of serious consideration, and if the editors of the different papers would arouse the public attention, so as to direct some of our most active citizens to a consideration of this subject, incalculable good would result to the commu- nity at large. If the public authorities of our cities, and all those who distribute fuel among the poor, gratis, would give them peat instead of wood, it would be much cheaper, and would answer every purpose to the consumers. Twelve bushels might be given in the first winter month to each of the ap- plicants, instead of wood, with a strict injunction to save their ashes in a dry state, in order to their being taken in exchange for a future supply of peat. It could be easily ascertained how much ashes twelve bushels of peat would make ; and if a strict attention be paid to the conditions of exchange, it would soon be discovered which of the appli- cants was the most entitled to the distributor's bounty. The same sheds which it would be necessary to provide for hous- ing the peat, could be used as a deposit for the ashes. If such sheds be conveniently constructed to hold each a mode- rate quantity, the first which is emptied of peat may be filled with the first ashes that are returned in exchange for a future supply of fuel, and they could all be used for the same pur- pose as they become empty. These ashes, when fairly tested, may become a merchantable article as in Europe ; and it is very probable that farmers may be induced to take them in exchange for future supplies of peat ; they could, however, be conveyed into the country at a trifling expense, and would, no doubt, meet with a ready sale. 21 OBSERVATIONS TRAINING AND PRUNING FRUIT TREES AND VINES. In training and pruning fruit treeo and vines, particular attention is required. To supply a tiee with a sufficiency of vegetable juices, there must necessarily be living bark and wood in an uninterrupted succession from the root to the extremities of the branches ; pruning, therefore, is use- ful to remedy any defect, as well as to take off superfluous wood, and prevent unnecessary waste of the sap. Pruning may be performed at different seasons of the year, according to the kinds of fruit, which will be shown under each head, as we proceed. In the spring or summer pruning, be careful not to destroy the germs of future fruits, but merely remove all unservice- able sprigs. In the winter season, make your selection from the wood shoots of the preceding year ; keep those which appear the most healthy, and cut away those which seem redundant. Beginners had better prefer the spring, as the buds will then be a guide for them to go by ; but this busi- ness must not be delayed too late in the season, as some kinds of trees and vines are apt to bleed from being pruned untimely. When the sap rises in Grape Vines, &:c., before the wound is healed, bleeding ensues, and it is not easily Btopped. When this happens, sear the place, and cover it with melted wax, or with warm pitch spread upon a piece of bladder ; or peel oft" the outside bark to some distance from the j)lace, and then pi-ess into the pores of the wood, a composition of pounded chalk and tar, mixed to the con- sistence of putty. Vines will bleed in autumn as well as ir 22 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. spring, thougli not so copiously. The best preventive is timely or early pruning in the spring, and not pruning until the wood is tlioToughly ripe in autumn. With respect to the manner in which vines, and some particular kinds of trees, should be trained, opinions are at variance. Some advise training the shoots in a straight and direct manner, others in a horizontal maimer, and others again in a serpentine form, &c. If vines be ti'ained on low walls or trellises, the horizontal or zigzag manner of training may be adopted. Horizontal training is that in which from a main stem, lateral branches are led out horizontally on each side. It has been remarked, that in order to be a good trainer of vines, a man must have some forethought, and be capable of making his selection, as the plants shoot. He must pre- determine how he shall prune, and where he shall cut at the end of the season ; and so, as it were, fashion the plants to his mind. He has this more effectually in his power, with respect to the vine, than any other fruit tree, on account of its rapid growth and docility. In pruning vines, cut generally two inches above the bud. Some cut nearer, even as near as half an inch, which is apt to weaken the shoot of next season, and sometimes to pre- vent its vegetating at all, the buds being very susceptible of injury, on account of the soft and spongy nature of the wood. In cutting out old wood, be careful to cut in a sloping direc- tion, and to smooth the edges of the wood, in order to pre- vent its being injured by moisture. The pruning being finished, let the loose, shreddy, outward rind on the old wood be carefully jjeeled off, observing ncjt to injure the sound bark, and clear the trellis of branches, leaves, tendrils, &c. Let the shoots and branches afterward be regularly laid in, at the distance above specified, particularly the young shoots that are expected to bear next season. As to others, it is not so material how near the young shoots be placed to the old, even though they sometimes cross them. Choose OS TRAINING AND PRUNING. 23 Strands of fresh matting, or pack thread, to tie with ; and observe to leave sufficient room for the svvelUng of the shoots and branches next season. By attending to the proper training of fruit trees, every advantage is promoted, and by a judicious management in other respects, wood may not only be obtained, but presei'ved in every part of the tree, so that it will bear down to the very bole, which will evidently be greatly to the credit of the gardener, the benefit of the proprietor, and equally con- ducive to the beauty and welfare of the tree. While trees ai"e young, it is necessary to lay a good foundation for a sup- ply of bearing wood in future years, for when this is neg- lected, and they become naked, it is sometime before a sup- ply can be recovered. In shortening a branch, always take care to cut in a direction a little sloping, and the middle of all standard trees should be kept as open as possible. It is requisite to have a very sharp knife, that the cut may not be ragged, but clean, and in the operation be careful that the knife does not slip, so that another branch be cut or damaged. The general pruning of fruit trees is indifferently per- formed by many persons at any time from autumn to spiing, and it may be so done without any great injury to them, provided mild weather be chosen for the purpose, and the wood be well ripened. Although it may be advantageous to prune trees early in the winter, when the wood is well ripened, yet, when the wood is green and the buds have not arrived at a mature state, it is requisite in such cases to defer pruning until spring, taking care, however, that it is perform- ed before the moving of the sap. The necessity of this arises from the circumstance, that as the wood is not ripened in autumn, the sap is then in an active state, and will con- tinue so until the frost, &c., cause it to become stagnant ; and if the shoots were shortened while the sap was in mo- tion, the buds would be considerably injured, and the tree weakened ; such unripe shoots are also more liable to suffer by the severity of winter, and when the pruning is deferred 24 ON TRAINING AND PRUNING. until spring, all such parts as may have been affected by the weather, can be removed to the extent to which the damage has been sustained. As the pruning of such unripe wood in the autumn would be injurious, so it frequently is when it is done during winter, and the more so according to its severity; because, whenever a cut is made on such gieen wood, the frost generally affects it, as the sap is not so dense, nor the wood so firm, as to be able to resist its intense- ness. Whatever method is adopted in training trees, care should be taken to keep the two sides as nearly equal as possible ; this may easily be done, whether they are trained in the fan or horizontal method. For espalier trees, the horizontal method has many advantages over any other ; the small compass within which the trees are obliged to be kept, requires such a direction for the branches, in order to make them fruitful ; and were very high trellises formed, so as to admit of the ti^ees being trained in the fan method, such would be very objectionable, by reason of the shade they would cause, and the trees would also be deprived of the benefit of a warmer temperature, which those less elevated receive. As some young gardeners may not know what is meant by espaliers, it may be necessary to explain, that espaliers are hedges of fruit trees, which are trained up regularly to a frame or trellis of wood-woik ; they produce large fruit plen- tifully, without taking up much room, and may be planted in the Kitchen Garden without much inconvenience to its other products. For espalier fruit trees in the open ground, a trellis is absolutely necessary, and may either be formed of common stakes or poles, or of regular joineiy work, according to taste or fancy. The implements employed in pruning, and the manner of using them, are matters of moment. If the operation ia commenced when the tree is young, and judiciou.sly followed up, a good knife, a small saw, a mallet, and a chisel fixed ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. 25 cm a six-foot handle, to trim the tops and extremities of the branches, are all the tools that are required. A large saw will be occasionally wanted ; but an axe or hatchet should never be employed, as they fracture the wood, bruise and tear the bark, and disfigure the tree. BUDDING AND GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. Budding and Grafting, Lindley observes, are operations that equally depend for their success upon the property that buds possess of shooting roots downward, and stems up- ward ; but in these practices, the roots strike between the bark and wood of the stock, instead of into the earth, and form new layers of wood, instead of subterranean fibres. The success of such practices, however, depends upon other causes than those which influence the growth of cuttings. It is necessary that an adhesion should take place between the scion and the stock, so that v/hen the descending fibres of the buds shall have fixed themselves upon the wood of the stock, they may not be liable to subsequent separation. No one can have studied the economy of the vegetable kingdom, without having remarked that there is a strong tendency to cohesion in bodies or parts that are placed in contact with each other. BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. To bud trees, let the following method be adopted : Pro- cure a knife which has a thin blade, and a sharp ivory han- dle ; the use of the blade is to prepare the buds, and the handle is used to raise the bark of the stocks, so that the buds can be easily inserted. Have some good strong bass in readiness, and then take some good thrifty sprigs from healthy trees of the sorts you intend to propagate. When 3 26 ON BUDDING, OR INOCULATING. all is ready, make a cut in the bark of the stock transversely, and from the middle of this cut make another downward, at least two inches in length, so that the two cuts may be in the form of a T ; then from one of your sprigs proceed with expedition to take off a bud ; this is effected as follows : Insert the knife a little more than half an inch below the bud or eye, force it into the wood, drawing it under the bud, and cut the piece off across the shoot ; then immediately let that part of the wood which was cut off" with the bud be separated from it, which may be readily done with the knife, by placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one end, and, holding the bark in one hand, pull off" the woody part with the other, which will readily come from the baik, if the tree from which it was taken be in a vigorous con- dition. Examine the bark, so as to be satisfied that the bud remains perfect ; if there is no hole in it, let it be im- mediately inserted into the stock, which is done by raising with the handle of your knife the bark of the stock downward on each side from the cross cut, and thrusting the bud in be- tween the bark and the wood, applying it as close as possi ble. As soon as the bud is put into its place, bind it securely with bass, beginning a little below the cut, and proceeding upward, till you are above the cross cut, taking care to miss the eye of the bud, just so that it may be seen through the bandage of the bass. About a week or ton days after the stocks have been budded, they should be examined, when such as have united will appear fresh and full, and those that have not taken will appear decayed ; in the former case the bandage may be left off', and in the latter case, the stock may be budded in another place, provided the first operation was done in the month of July or early in August, as these are the two most preferable months for budding fruit trees in general. Budding is, however, often attended with success, if done early in September. Scallop Budding is performed by cutting fiom a smal) stock a thin narrow scallop of wood, about an inch in length, OBSEKVAIIOIVS ON GKAFTING. 27 and taking from a twig a thin scallop of wood of the same length ; this is instantly applied, and fitted perfectly at top and bottom, and as nearly as possible on its sides, and firmly bound with wet bass matting. This may be performed in the spring, and if it fails, it may be done again in the month of July. The French practice this mode on Roses. GRAFTING. Grafting is the taking a shoot from one tree and inserting it into another, in such a manner that both may unite closely, and become one tree. These shoots are called scions oi grafts, and in the choice of them, and the mode of preparing some desci'iptions of stocks, the following hints will be useful : Those scions are best which are taken from the lateral or horizontal, rather than from the strong perpendicular shoots. The shoots of Apples, &c., should be taken from healthy ti'ees late in autumn, or before the buds begin to swell in the spring, and buried half of their length in the ground, or in a cool and dry cellar ; there to remain until the season of grafting. For some descriptions of trees, the stocks are headed down near to the ground. In nurseries, Apples intended for standards are generally grafted about nine inches high only, allovvdng them to grow up standard high, and forming their heads upon the second year's shoots. Irf cider coun- ti ies, the stock is generally trained up standard high ; and when grown sufficiently large for the purpose, it is grafted at the height at which it is intended the head of the tree shall be . formed. As resjDects trees in general, directions will be found under their appropriate heads. The business of grafting is generally performed in March and April : there are various methods of grafting, but the following are those most generally practised ; 28 OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. Cleft Grafting. This mode of grafting is generally practised on stocks of from one to two inches in diameter, and may be performed in the following manner : Let the head of the stock be carefully sawed off' at a part free fi'om knots, and the top pared smooth ; then with a thin knife split down the stc>ck through the centre to the depth of about two inches, and insert a vfedge to keep it open for the reception of the scion. The scion must be prepared in the form of a wedge, with an eye, if possible, in the upper part, and inserted carefully, so that the inner bark of the scion and of the stock may both exactly meet. Large stocks require two scions, one on each side, and sometimes four are inserted. When done, tie them firmly together with bass, and then cover the grafted part with well-prepared clay, in an oval form, and close it securely. Side Grafting. This mode is sometimes practised on those parts of a tree where a limb is wanting. There are two ways in which it may be performed. 1st. The scion may be prepared in the same manner as for splice grafting, and the bark and wood on the side of the stock cut sloping; the scion being then adjusted as carefully as possible, it must be bound on and covered with clay. 2d. The scion being cut sloping, a cross-cut is to be made in the side of the tree on the top of a perpendicular slit ; the bark of a tree above the cross-cut must be pared down slanting to the wood, and the bark raised as in budding ; the scion being then inserted, it must be bound fast, and covered with clay. Splice, or Whip Grafting. This mode is often practised on small stocks, and it succeeds best when the scion and stock are of an equal size. The scion, which should consist of young wood of the former year's gi'owth, may be cut to the length of about four inches. This and the stock are each to be cut sloping, for an inch or more, and tongued. Tongueing consists in cutting a slit in the middle of the slope of the stock downward, and a corresponding slit in the scion u}»ward ; both are now to be joined, so that one of the sides, OBSERVATIONS ON GRAFTING. 29 if not both, shall pei-fectly coincide, and then securely bound with bass matting, and covered with grafting clay or compo- sition. As soon as the scion and stock are completely united, the bass string may be removed. Saddle Grafting. The celebrated Mr. Knight practised this mode of grafting on very small stocks. The upper part of the stock is prepared in the form of a wedge, by two sloping cuts, one on each side. The scion is prepared by slitting it upward, and paring out the middle part on each side to a point. When the stock and scion are of equal size, the adjustment may be made perfect; but if unequal, one side must exactly meet. The whole is secured by a string of bass matting, and covered with composition or clay ; but the string must be removed as soon as a perfect union has taken place. Root Grafting. This operation is often performed on Grape vines, just below the level of the surface, by the usual mode of cleft grafting. It is also performed on portions or pieces of root, where suitable stocks are scarce. Grafting by Approach. The trees, or shrubs, to be grafted in this mode, must be growing very near to those which are to furnish the grafts. The limbs or branches of each tree, which are thus to be united, must be pared with a long sloping cut of several inches, nearly to the centre ; and the parts of each ti-ee thus preparec^ are to be brought together, and finally secured by a bandage of matting, so that the bark shall meet as nearly as possible. The graft may then be covered with clay or composition ; and when a complete union has taken place, the trees or shrubs may be separated with a sharp knife, by cutting off below the junction. It may be here observed that, as young grafted trees iit the nursery progress in growth, the lower side-limbs should be gradually shortened, but not suddenly close-pruned they are essential for a time to strengthen the trunks, ant. to the upright and perfect formation of the tree. 3* 30 FORSYTH 8 COMPOSITION. DIRE-CTIONS FOR MAKING COMPOSITION, GRAFTING CLAY, ETC., FOR USE ON FRUIT TREES. The British Parhament gave Mr. Forsyth a vahiable pre- mium for the following important directions for making a composition for curing diseases, defects, and injuries in all kinds of fruit and forest trees, and the method of preparing the trees, and laying on the composition : Take one bushel of fresh cow-dung, half a bushel of lime rubbish of old buildings (that from the ceilings of rooms is preferable), half a bushel of wood ashes, and a sixteenth part of a bushel of pit or river sand ; the three last articles are to be sifted fine before they are mixed ; then work them well together with a spade, and afterward with a wooden beater, until the stuff is very smooth, like fine plaster used for ceilings of rooms. The composition being thus made, care must be taken to prepare the tree properly for its application, by cutting away all the dead, decayed, and injured part, till you come at the fresh sound wood, leaving the surface of the wood very smooth, and rounding off the edges of the bark with a draw- knife, or other instrument, perfectly smooth, which must be particularly attended to ; then lay on the plaster about au eighth of an inch thick, all over the part where the wood or bark has been so cut away, finishing off the edges as thin as ])(issible. Then take a quantity of dry powder of wood ashes mixed with a sixth part of the same quantity of the ashes of burnt bones ; put it into a tin box with holes in the top, and shake the powder on the sui'face of the plaster till the whole is covered with it, letting it remain for half an hour to absorb the moisture ; then apply more powder, rub- bing it on gently with the hand, and repeating the applica- tion of the powder till the whole plaster becomes a dry, smooth surface. WASH FOR THE STEMS OF FRUIT TREES, ETC. 31 If any of the composition be left for a future occasion, it should be kept in a tub or other vessel, and urine poui'ed on it so as to cover the surface, otherwise the atmosphere will greatly hurt the efficacy of the application. When lime rubbish of old buildings cannot be easily got, take pounded chalk or common lime, after having been slaked a month at least. As the growth of the trees will gradually effect the plas- ter, by raising up its edges next the bark, care should be taken, when that happens, to rub it over with the finger when occasion may require (which is best done when moistened by rain), that the plaster may be kept whole, to prevent the air and wet penetrating into the wound. As the best way of using the composition is found, by experience, to be in a liquid state, it must, therefore, be reduced to the consistence of a pretty thick paint, by mixing it up with a sufficient quantity of urine and soapsuds, and laid on with a painter's brush. The powder of wood ashes and burned bones is to be applied as before directed, patting it down with the hand. A Wash for the Stems of Fruit Trees. Take a peck of fresh cow-dung, half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the whole together with as much urine and soapsuds in a boiling state as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. This composition may be applied to the stems of young standard trees when planted out in the orchard, to prevent their being injured by the depredations of reptiles and insects. A Wash for the Stems and Branches of Fruit Trees, Take half a peck of quick lime, half a pound of flour of sulphur, and a quarter of a pound of lampblack. Mix the wh(ile together with as much boiling water as will form the ingredients into a thick paint. This composition is recom- mended to be applied to the stems and limbs of Apple trees which are infested with the fVhite Mealy Insect, having pre- viously removed the moss and loose bark by scraping them 32 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. off with a strong knife, or some other instrument adapted to the purpose. In using the composition, it will be most efficacious if applied in a warm state, or something more than blood heat. On young trees, strong vinegar will effectually destroy this insect, and I have for many years, in my ovm nursery, used it for this purpose ; but this would be too expensive to be applied when the trees are large. A solution of potash to wash the stems of the trees early in the spring, before the buds expand, will effectually destroy them. To MAKE Grafting Composition. Take equal parts of rosin and beeswax, and a little tallow ; melt these together and mix them ; then pour the composition into cold water, and as it hardens, take it out and work it up with the hands until it attains a due consistence. It may be spread on brown paper, which being cut into strips of suitable size, is quickly applied, and in cool weather may be warmed by the breath, so as to become adhesive. Grafting Clay may be made in the following manner : Take equal parts of fresh horse manure, free from litter, cow manure, and good stiff clay ; add to this a portion of hair, and work it together in the same manner as masons mix their mortar. It should be well beaten and incorpo- rated several days before it is required to be used. ON THE CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. In the choice of fruit trees, all possible care and attention are necessary ; for, to have trees that do not answer the expectations of the proprietor, is a great disappointment. As the young gardener may need such directions as are cal- culated to govern him in his choice, I shall endeavour to CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 33 furnish them. Whatever species or varieties of fruit trees are wanted, choose those that are vigorous and straight, and of a healthy appearance. Whether they have been grafted or budded, be careful to select such as have been worked on young stocks. Grafts and buds inserted into old, crooked, stunted stocks, seldom succeed well. Trees that are healthy, have always a smooth, clean, shining bark ; such as are mossy, or have a rough, wrinkled bark, or are the least affected by canker, should be rejected. Canker is discover- able in the young wood, and generally two or three inches above the graft or bud. If the tree be an Apricot, Nectar- ine, Peach, or Plum, and any gum appears on the lower part of it, do not fix upon that. Let the tree you select (if a dwarf) be worked about six inches from the ground, and only one graft or bud should be upon each stock, for when there are more, the tree cannot be brought to so handsome a form. In some of the following articles, it will be seen that several descriptions of trees may be transplanted with safety, even when far advanced in growth. When trees of four or five years' growth, after having been headed down, that are healthy, and well furnished with fruit-bearing wood close up to the centre of the tree, can be obtained, they will do very well ; but great care is requisite in taking up, removing, and planting such. Let the tree be taken up with as great a portion of the roots as possible, taking care not to bruise, split, or damage them ; for want of attention to these pomts, trees often become diseased. Whenever (notwithstanding all due caution) any roots have been accidentally broken, split, or otherwise damaged in taking up the tree, let them be cut off; or if they cannot be well sjDared, let the damaged or bruised part be pared clean with a sharp knife, and a por- tion of the following composition be spread over the wound, in order to keep the wet from it, which would otherwise injure the tree : To equal parts of soft soap and tar, add a little beeswax ; let them be boiled together, and when cold 34 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. they may be used. The necessity of pruning-in and dress- ing mangled roots is more particularly required in trees of the stone fruit, such as Apricots, Nectarines, Peaches, Plums, &c. ; for without the application of some remedy, they gum at the roots, which defect, if not counteracted, very materi- ally injures the upper part of the trees, which may become so affected as never to recover afterward ; therefore, great care should be taken not to occasion such injury; and when accidents happen, all due caution and application are neces- sary to promote a healthy and vigorous growth. A young tree, likely to do well, should have roots nearly corresponding to the branches ; at least, it should have one strong root in a similar proportion to the bole of the tree, with a projDer distribution of branching fibres. Healthy roots are always smo(jth and clear ; their colour varies a lit- tle according to tlie kind of tree, but the older the roots are, the darker the colour is. After the tree is taken up, be careful, in conveying it to the place where it is to be planted, that the roots are not chafed or rubbed. If trees are to be conveyed to a consid- erable distance, they should be well guarded by straw, or otherwise, in order to prevent injury. All damaged or bruised roots should be pruned as soon as the tree is taken up, but if it be necessary to prune away any sound, good roots, such pruning should be delayed until the time of planting. In pruning away roots, always let them be finished by a clear cut, and in a sloping direction ; the slope should be toward the under stratum, so that the wet may not be allowed to lodge upon the part so cut. When trees are planted at an advanced season in the spring of the year, it will be neces- sary to prune the tops ; and if trees are removed that have been trained three or four years, and are not properly sup- plied with young wood, they must be cut down either wholly or partially, in order to obtain a sufficiency. In practising this upon Apricot and Nectarine trees, &c., always prune so as to have a leading shoot close below the cut, as it is CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY. 35 very rare they will push a shoot below, unless there be a lead. This attention is not so particularly required in the Pear, kc, as such will generally push forth shoots, although no leading ones are left ; but in all kinds, the younger the wood is, the more certain are shoots to be produced. If a tree that has been under training for one or two years, should only have one good strong leading shoot, and two or three weaker ones which do not proceed from it, let the weak shoots be pruned clean away, and shorten the strong one, from which a handsome head may afterward be formed. For farther directions as respects pruning or planting fruit trees, &c., the reader is referred to the preceding articles on these subjects ; and as respects any species of fruit in par- ticular, directions will be found under its distinct head. In order to assist the reader in making a judicious selection of fruit trees, I have furnished a short description of such species and varieties as are in great re^iute for every good quality. Previous to making this selection, I carefully perused ' Prince's Pomulogical Manual,' ' Kenrick's Ameri- can Orchardist,' ' Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden,' and 'Manning's Descriptive Catalogue of Fruits;' beside these important guides, I had the select catalogues of different nurserymen before me, and have chosen such only as have been most generally recominended. In doing this, I have had difficulties to contend with, of the nature of which, none but those who have duly considered the subject can form any idea. The facility with which seedling plants are raised, and the paternal fondness with which people are apt to regard their own seedlings, have occasioned hundreds uf names to appear in the various catalogues, which tend not a little to swell the large and increasing list of fruits. In many instances, the English, French, Spanish, and other names, provisional, local, and barbarous, are given to the same variety ; consequently, some fruits appear in the different catalogues under all the varied names ; and the patience and labour necessarily requisite for ascertaining 30 CHOICE OF FRUIT TREES IN THE NURSERY, which are really distinct varieties, and which are most worthy of cultivation, are correspondingly great. To exemplify : Suppose from a catalogue of Pears the fol- lowing names should be selected by a person wishing to plant as many varieties in his orchard, namely. Brown Beurre, Beurre Gris, Beurre Rouge, Buerre Dore, Buerre (V Anjou, Bicerre d' Or, Buerre rf' Ambletise, Buerre (V Ainboise^ Poire (P Amhoise, Isambert, Red Beurre, Golden Beurre, Betirre du Rot. White Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Doyenne, Beurre Blanc, Bonne-ante, Saint JVIichael, Carlisle, Citron de Scptem- bre, Kaiserbirne, Poire a cotirt queue, Poire de Limon, Valen- cia, Poire de JYeige, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Monsieur, While Beurre. Here is a list of twenty-nine kinds, as the pur- chaser supposes, but when the trees produce their fruit, he finds, to his great disappointment and mortification, that he has only two varieties, namely, the Brown Beurre and the White Doyenne. In making out the descriptive lists, I have generally adopted the names given in the catalogues of the most cele- brated nurserymen, as a heading ; and have caused the synonymes, or names by which the same variety is known, or has been called, to be printed in italics ; thus, my lists of about four hundred varieties of the various species of fruit, will embrace what has been deemed by some as different varieties, perhaps to the number of nearly two thousand. In preparing the following articles, the object has been to furnish information which would entertain, as well as instruct the reader. Besides the authorities quoted, I have gleaned from those inexhaustible treasures to horticulturists, Loudon's Encycloj^aedia of Plants, and that of Gardening; but on account of the brevity necessarily observed through- out this work, it has been found impracticable to give many entire extracts ; suffice it to say, that the historical facts are generally collected from these sources. APPLE. 3T APPLE PoMMiER. Fynis malus. The Apple being so closely connected with our wants and enjoyments, is entitled to the first notice in the catalogue of our fruits. The Apple Orchard is, in truth, the vineyard of our country ; and the delicious beverage that can be obtained from some of the vaiieties of this excellent fruit being cal- culated to cheer the invalid, as well as to strengthen the healthy, entitles it to high consideration. It is one of out oldest and best fruits, and has become completely naturalized to our soil ; none can be brought to so high a degree of per- fection with so little trouble ; and of no other are there so many excellent varieties in general cultivation, calculated for almost every soil, situation, and climate, which our coun- try affords. The Apple tree is supposed by some to attain a great age < Haller mentions some trees in Herefordshire, England, that were a thousand years old, and were still highly prolific ; but Knight considers two hundred years as the ordinary duration of a healthy tree, grafted on a crab stock, and planted in a strong, tenacious soil. Speedily mentions a tree in an or- chard at Burtonjoice, near Nottingham, about sixty years old, with branches extending from seven to nine yards round the bole, which in some seasons produced upward of a hun- dred bushels of apples. The Romans had only twenty-two vaiieties in Pliny's time. There are upward of fifteen hundred now cultivated in the garden of the Horticultural Society of London, under name ; the catalogue of the Linntean Bcjtanic Garden at Flushing contains about four hundred ; and one of our en- terprising horticulturists, Mr. William Coxe, of Burlington, New Jersey, enumerated one hundred and thirty-three kinds cultivated in the United States, some years ago. They are usually divided into dessert, baking, and cider fruits : the 38 APPLE. first, highly flavoured ; the second, such as fall, or becomo mellow in baking or boiling; and the third, austere, and generally fruit of small size. Besides this division. Apples are classed as pippins or seedlings, pearmains or somewhat pear-shaped fruits, rennets or queen-specked fruits, calviles or white-skinned fruits, russets or brown fruits, and some are denominated burknots. The Apple may be propagated by layers, and many sorts by cuttings and budding, but the usual mode is by grafting on seedling stocks of two or three years growth, and for dwarfing, on stocks of the Q,uince or Paradise Apple. All the j^rincipal varieties are cultivated as standards in the orchard, and should be planted from thirty to forty feet from each other, or from any other spreading trees, in order that the sun and air may have their due influence in maturing the fruit. Many of the dwarf kinds may be introduced into the Kitchen Garden, and trained as espaliers, or dwarf standards. An Apple Orchard may be planted at any time after the trees are two years old from the graft; and as trees from young stocks will not come into full bearing until ten or twelve years old, they will bear removing with care at any time within that period. Old Apple trees may be grafted with superior varieties by being headed down to standard height : most commonly, in very old subjects, the branches only are cut within a foot or two of the trunk, and then grafted in the crown or cleft manner. In all the varieties of the common Apple, the mode of bearing is upon small terminal and lateral spurs, or short robust shoots, from half an inch to two inches long, which spring from the younger branches of two or more years' growth, appearing at first at the extremity, and ex- tending gradually to the side : the same bearing branches and fruit spurs continue many years fruitful. Pruning. — As, from the mode of beaiing, Apple trees do not admit of shortening llie general bearers, it should only DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 30 be pi'actised in extraordinary cases. If trees have not the most desirable form when three or four years old, they should be judiciously pruned to promote regular spreading branches. In annual pruning, the main branches should not be cut, unless in cases of decay ; but all superfluous cross branches and dead wood should be taken out, and the suckers eradi- cated. Espaliers require a summer and winter pruning. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. SUMMER FRUIT. American Summer Peahmain, Early Summer Pearmain. This ap- ple is of medium size and oblong form ; its colour bright red on the sunny side, and on the opposite side yellow, streaked or blotched with red ; the flesh is very juicy, tender, fine flavoured, and excellent. It ripens early in August, and is good either for the dessert or for cooking. Tree a good bearer. Benont. Fruit of medium size, form round and regular; the flesh yel- low, high flavoured, and excellent ; it ripens in July and August. " The tree bears well,'' says Mr. Manning, "amid should be found in every good collection." Early Bough, Sweet Bough. The size of this fruit varies from me- dium to large ; its colour pale yellow ; its form oblong ; its skin smooth ; flesh tender, juicy, sweet, and excellent. Ripens early in August. Early Crofton, or ImA Peach Apple. An Irish apple, of the middle size and flattish shape ; of an olive green colour, much variegated with red i has a rich saccharine flavour ; is much esteemed for the dessert, and is excellent also as a sauce apple. Ripens in August. The tree grows well, and is not apt to canker. Early Harvest, Prince's Yellow Harvest, Pomme (Vete, July Pippin. A very early apple, of medium size ; bright straw colour ; flesh white and tender ; juice rich, lively, and very fine. The tree bears young, and makes a fine garden espalier ; ripening its fruit in July and August. Early Red Juneatino, Red Margaret, Early Striped Juneafing, Strau'berry, Eve Apple of the Irish. Fruit below the middle size; skin greenish yellow, richly and closely streaked with deep red ; flesh white, juicy, breaking, sub-acid, very rich and agreeable. Ripens early in August. Porter. This variety, says Mr. Manning, originated on the farm of the Rev. Samuel Porter, of Sherburne, Massachusetts. The fruit is large, ot oblong shape; the skin a bright yellow, with a red blush; the flesh fine, sprightly, and agreeable. Ripens in September and October. Red Astracan. This beautiful apple is of medium size, and roundish ; the skin is dark red, covered with thick bloom like a plum ; the flesh is white, tender, and somewhat acid. At perfection early in August. 40 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF API'I.ES. Red Quarendon, Devonshire Quarenden. Sack Apple. A much es- teemed Devonshire apple ; of medium size ; skin of a uniform deep rich crimson, with numerous green dots intermixed ; llcsh of a brisk, pleasant, and peculiar flavour. A very desirable dessert apple : from August to Oc- tober ; tree very productive. Summer Pippin, Pic Apple. This fruit, in size and shape, resembles the Fall Pippin ; it dillers in having a little more red on the sunny side, and in arriving at maturity about a fortnight earlier. It is a very popular apple in New Jersey. SuMMKR Queen. A large oblong apple, striped with red on a yellow ground ; the flesh is yellow, very high flavoured, and excellent. The tree is of vigorous growth, says Mr. Manning, a great bearer, and ripen.s its fruit in August. Summer Rose, Harvest Apple. A very beautiful and excellent fruit, of moderate size and roundish form ; the skin is yellow, striped and mottled with red ; the flesh is sweet, juicy, and fine : in July and August ; tree a great bearer. Williams's Early, Williams's Favourite Red. This apple originated in Roxbury, Mass. ; it is of medium size ; oblong form ; the skin a bright and deep red; the flavour pleasant and agreeable. The tree is a great bearer, and its fruit commands a good price in the Boston markets: in Au- gust and September. AUTUMN FRUIT. Alexander, Emperor Alexander, Aporta. Fruit very lar^e, somewhat cordate, smallest at the crown ; of a greenish yellow colour, striped or mar- bled with red; pulp tender, sweet, rich, and aromatic: ripens in October, and lasts till Christmas. AMERtcAN Nonpareil, Doctor Apple. A beautiful apple of medium size and roundish form ; its colour yellow, streaked and stained with red on the sunny side ; flesh firm, juicy, and agreeable. A very fine market apple in October and November. Tree a great bearer. BoXFORD. A very superior variety, says Mr. Manning; which was first cultivated at Boxford, Massachusetts. Fruit roundish, of medium size; .skin striped with red and yellow ; the flesh, yellow, rich, and good. The tree is a great bearer, and ripens its fruit in October. Cumberland Spice. A fine dessert fruit, large, rather oblong; of a pale yellow colour, clouded near the base ; the flesh white, tender, and of fine flavour. It ripens in autumn, and will keep till February. DowNTON Pippin, Ellon Golden Pippin, Knighfs Golden Pippin. The Downton Golden Pippin is a most abundant bearer, and the fruit extreme- ly well adapted for market; it is rather larger than the common Golden Pippin; skin nearly smooth ; yellow, sprinkled with numerous specks; flesh yellowish, crisp, with a brisk, rich, sub-acid juice ; specific gravity 10.79. Ripe in October and November, and will keep good till Christmas. Drap d'Or of France, Clotli of Gold. This apple is very large and handsome; its form globular; its colour a fine yellow, with dark specks; its flesh white, firm, and rich flavoured. The tree bears well, and should be found in every good collection. Fruit in perfection from September to November. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES. 41 Fam. Harvey. This is a large and handsome fruit, the shape flat, the skin light yellow, with a bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, firm, ricli, and high riavoured. Mr. Manning considered it "the finest Fall and Karly Winter variety; a good bearer, and deserving extensive cultivation." Fall Pippin. Cobbef.t's Fall Pippin, Reinnete Blanche B'Esvagne, D^Eis variety is held in great esteem for different pur- poses; the clusters and berries are large, of a yellowish white colour, and delicious flavour. The bushes are often so productive that the branches of the bearing wood trail bene.ith the weight of the fruit. MissoDRi Currant. This species is quite distinct from the ordinary kinds ; its berries are purple, and although of rather agreeable flavour, they are not to be compared with those under general cultivation. To these may be added Knight's Sweet Red, WUmot^s Large Red, Went- worth Red, Victoria, and Green Fruited, lately introduced. The above are the most celebrated species of Currants. Some nurserymen's catalogues contain many other names, a great proportion of which are, probably, a repetition of the same fruit. Where the Currant is cultivated for the purpose of making vyine, the White and Red Dutch are to be pre- ferred to all others. For the dessert, the White Crystal and Champagne are great favourites, on account of their trans- parent clearness. FIG. FiGuiER. Ficus cartca. There are many species of the Fig, which are all natives of warm climates. In some parts of Asia, and in the South of Europe, they are always grovyn as standards; and the fruit, green and dried, forms an important part of the food of the inhabitants. The London Horticultural catalosfue contains the names of seventy-five sorts ; and Messrs. Prince, of Flushing, have about forty names in their catalogue. It 6 G2 FIG. is cultivateJ in England as a fruit tree, and, in warm situa- tions, will ripen its fruit in the open air. In Sussex, on the sea-coast, it ripens its fruit on standards. Some of the best in England are at Arundel Castle ; and there is a Fig or- chard of one hundred trees at Tarrino:, rear Worthing;. Those at Arundel are planted six or eight feet apart, and from a single stem allowed to continue branching conical heads, pruning chiefly irregular and redundant growths, and cutting out decayed or injured wood. The Fig tree may be propagated from seed, cuttings, layers, suckers, roots, and by grafting ; the most generally approved method is by layers or cuttings, which come into bearing the second, and sometimes the first year. No tree is more robust or more prolific ; even plants in pots or tubs kept in a tempei'ature adapted for the Orange tree, will fruit freely, and ripen two crops a year, and by being taken care of throufrh the winter, will to on srrowinor and rioeninsr fruit without intermission. Mr. Knight has obtained from his hot-house in England, eight successive crops in a year, by bending the limbs in a position below the horizontal. The trees will produce tolerable crops in the second year if rung or decorticated ; and by this process matuinty of the fruit is accelerated, and its size increased.* Its maturity is also has- tened by pricking the fruit with a straw or quill dipped in olive oil, or even by slightly touching the fruit with oil, at the finger's end. In Fig countries the fruit is preserved by dipping it in scalding lye, made of the ashes of the Fig tree, and then dried in the sun. * Girdling, decortication, ringing, or circumcision, as it is sometimes va- riously called, consists in making two circular incisions quite round the limb, through the bark, at the distance of about a quarter of an inch asun- der, more or less, according to the size and thickness of the tree ; then by making a perpendicular slit, the ring of the bark is wholly removed to the- wood. Ringing or decortication is applicable to every kind of fruit tree, and to the vine. Its operation is twofold. First, in the early production and abundance of blossom buds which it induces; and second, in increasing tlie size of the fruit and hastening its maturity, according to the season in '"hif.h the operation is performed. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FIGS. 63 When Figs are cultivated in a garden, a good loamy soil should be provided ; and they may be trained to close fences, or trellises, in sheltered situations. At the approach of win- ter they must be protected; those trained to close fences may be secured through the winter by a covering of mat- ting ; and such as may be in open situations should be libe- rated from the trellis, and laid down close to the ground, and covered three or four inches with earth ; or trenches may be formed of that depth, sufficient to contain the branches, which should be fastened down with hooked pegs, without cramping them : such of the strong central branches as will not bend may be enveloped in litter. They should be pruned before they are laid down in November, and on being raised again in April, they may be trained as before. Figs may be cultivated in private gardens as easily as the vine. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FIGS. Angelique, Coiicourelle Blanche, Melitte. Fruit rather small, some- what pyramidal; skin yellow, mottled with white ; pulp white ; seed tinged with red. In the neighbourhood of Paris this variety produces two crops annually ; the first is usually thin, but the second very abundant and ex- cellent. Black Italian. Fruit small and round; pulp very delicious. Mr. Forsyth used to cultivate this kind in pots, and it is recorded that he has gathered from one plant two dozen figs in a day. Blue or Purple, Large Blue, Great Blue, Large Purple Fruit large, oblong ; skin purple, covered with thick blue bloom ; pulp deep red, and of a rich flavour : ripe in August. The tree is hardy and prolific. BouRDEAux, Figue Poire, Violefte de Bourdeaux. Fruit of a pyramidal figure ; skin brownish red, slightly mottled ; pulp red, succulent, and sweet. This is cultivated throughout France, and produces two crops annually. Brown Turkev. Fruit small and round ; pulp very delicious. This and the Black Italian are mentioned by Mr. Forsyth as being cultivated by him in pots, and each possessing equal merit. Brunswick. Madonna, Hanover. Fruit very large, obovate ; skin pale green, tinged with yellow ; flesh pinkish, extremely rich, and high flavoured. This is one of the largest and best hardy figs for garden culture, and it will ripen in the neighbourhood of London by the middle of August. Chestnut, Chestnut-coloured Ishia, Brown Ischin. Fruit globular, of large size ; skin of a brown chestnut colour ; pulp purple, sweet, and higft G4 FILBERT AND HAZLEMJT. flavoured This kind will often yield two crops in England, the first fruit of wliich ripens in August. Early White, Small Early White. Fruit somewhat round ; skin thin ; wlicn fully ripe of a pale yellow colour; pulp white, sweet, and of plea- sant flavour. This generally ripens two crops in one season. Grekn Ischia. Fruit oblong; skin green, very thin; pulp purple, which, when fully ripe, stains the skin to a brownish cast. This is a very liigh flavoured fig, especially in warm countries : ripe in August. Large White Genoa. Fruit large, globular ; skin thin, white, turning to yellow when fully ripe; pulp red, and of good flavour, This in Eng- land bears two crops, annuall}'. Mai TA, S/iiull Broivn, of some gardens. Fruit small ; skin pale brown ; pulp very sweet and well flavoured: ripe in August, and if left hanging on the tree until shrivelled, it becomes a fine sweetmeat. Nerii. The Nerii fig is highly esteemed in England. Fruit oblong, of medium size; skin pale greenish yellow; the flesh is very rich, and the juice possesses a delicate acidity, which renders it peculiarly palatable : ripe in August. Pregussata. Fruit large, oblate ; skin dark brown ; pulp deep red; re- markably sweet and rich : ripe in August. Purple Genoa. Fruit large, long; skin dark purple; pulp extremely sweet and luscious: ripe in August. ViOLETTE, Figue Violette. The Violet Fig, like the Angelique, is much cultivated in the neighbourhood of Paris, and produces two crops annually. Fruit small ; skin deep violet ; pulp, near the skin, white ; the interior red, and of excellent flavour. White Marseilles, Pocock, Figue Blanche. Fruit medium size, some- what turbinate ; skin pale green, becoming yellowish when fully ripe : flesh white, dry, sweet, and rich : ripe in August. Yellow Ischia, Cijprus. Fruit large, of a pyramidal form, skin yel- low, when fully ripe; pulp purple and high flavoured: in August and September. FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. NoiSETIER AVELINIER. CorljluS. The Filbert, in many varieties, and also the common Ha- zlenut, grow spontaneously in the woods of Britain, and some few varieties are indigenous in this country. The kinds of Filberts generally cultivated are the white, red, cob, clustered, and frizzled ; of each of which there are many varieties. As this shrub is so easily cultivated, it is a matter of astonishment that the nuts from this genus of pfents are 80 scarce in our markets. In different parts of England FILBERT AND HAZLENUT. 65 there are Filbert orchards. In the Filbert grounds about Maidstone, in Kent, it is a prevailing practice to cultivate Hops, standard Apples, and Cherries, among the Filberts ; when these come into a bearing state, the Hops are takeax up and transplanted elsewhere, and the fruit trees only suf- fered to remain. The spare ground is then planted with Gooseberries, Currants, &:c. The Red Filbert is allowed to have a finer flavour than the White. The Cob-nut is large, with a thick shell, but the kernel is sweet and of consider- able size. The Barcelona is a good large nut, with a thin shell. The Cosford is very sweet, kernels well, and the tiee is a gi'eat bearer. The Bond JYui, and the Lambert JVut are of large size, roundish shape, and very prolific bearers. The Frizzled Filbert is highly esteemed. It is beautiful when in the husk, and its flavour is very similar to that of the White Filbert ; the shell of which is also thin, and its kernel sweet and fine. All the different kinds may be grown as dwarf standards ; or they will bear very well if planted in clumps : but as they produce an abundance of suckers, these should be parted off frequently, and planted in a nursery bed for stocks ; as the bearing plants will cease to produce fruit in any quantity, if the suckers are allowed to form a thick bush. They may be propagated by seed, by suckers, by layers, or by gi-afting in the spiking upon seedling or sucker stocks. The Filbert bears principally upon the sides of the upper young branches, and upon small shoots which proceed from the bases of side branches cut off the preceding year. The leading shoot is every year to be shortened, and every shoot that is left to produce fruit should be clipped ; which pre- vents the tree from being exhausted in making wood at the end of the branch. Such branches as may have borne fruit, must be cut out every year, in order to promote the growth of a supply of young fruit-bearing branches. 66 GOOSEBERRY. GOOSEBERRY. Groseiller. Ribes grosstilaria, uva, crispa, tic. The Gooseberry is a native of several parts of Europe, and is indigenous in America, as far north as 68<^. It is cultivated to greater perfection in England than in any other part of the world. In Spain and Italy, this fruit is scarcely known. In France, it is neglected. In Lancashire, Eng- land, and some parts of the adjoining counties, almost every cottager cultivates the Gooseberry, vdth a view to prizes given at what are called Gooseberry Prize Meetings ; of these, there is annually published an account, with the names and weights of the successful soils, in what is called the Manchester Gooseberry Book. The prizes vary from ten shillings to five and ten pounds sterling. There are meet- ings held in the spring to " make up," as the term is, the persons, and the conditions of exhibition ; and in August, to weigh and test the fruit, and determine the prizes. In Lindley's Guide to the Orchard and Fruit Garden, seven hundred and twenty-two varieties are described; from which the following are selected, as in most repute for size, flavour, and other good qualities : British Crown, Boardinnn''s. This variety is noted as being a fine fla- voured fruit, especially for tarts. Thirty-three prizes had been awarded for it in 1829; the largest berry weighing IS pennyweights and 10 grains. Champagne. The fruit of this variety is held in great esteem for its delicious flavour; the berry is of medium size, somewhat oblong and hairy. Capper's Top Sawtf:r. This is a late fruit, of oblong shape, and hairy near the base. One hundred and seventy-one prizes were obtained for this in 1S3S and 9 ; the heiviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. Crown l?oii, Melliim:'-t. This variety vi'on eighty-five prizes in two se«- sons ; the largest berry weighing 21 dwts. and 12 grains. It is a late fruit, of oblong shape, bright red colour, and hairy. Early Red, WilmuVs. This variety is considered by Mr. Wilmot as first rate of its colour. It has a thin skin; is of large size, very early, of excellent flavour, and incredibly productive. Hu^TsMAN. This variety, which originated with Mr. Bratherton, took GOOSEBERRY. 67 two hundred and sixteen prizes in 1828 and 9 ; the heaviest berry weighed 24 dwts. Lancashire Lad, Hartshorn's- One hundred and fift^'-six prizes were awarded for this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 11 grains. IMarquis of Stafford, Knight's. This much esteemed late variety is hairy, of medium size, bright red colour, and delicious flavour. Old Rough Red. This is a favourite fruit for family use ; the berrie* are of medium size, of dark red colour ; excellent for preserving as goose berry jam, and for bottling in an unripe state. Over-all, Brafherton's. This variety took seventy-four prizes in two seasons, the average weight of the berries being 20 dwts. It is a highly esteemed fruit. Ploughboy. This is a medium sized early fruit, in great repute for its delicious flavour and productiveness. Princf. Regent, Boardman's. This variety won one hundred and forty-one prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 1 1 grains. Roaring Lion, Farmer's. In 1828 three hundred and forty-nine prizes were awarded for this variety ; and in 1829 it won four hundred and fifty- three prizes, the largest berry weighing 29 dwts.; since which time, ber- ries have been known to weigh over an ounce and a half. Shakspeare. Sixty prizes were awarded for this variety in two sea- sons ; the average weight of the berries were about 20 dwts. It is a great bearer. Sir John Cotgrave, Bratherton's. This variety took three hundred and forty-three prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 25 dwts, 2 grains. Triumphant, Denny's. This is a medium sized early berry, weighing about 16 dwts. It is considered equal in quality to any gooseberry of its colour. Warrington. This is a favourite fruit for private gardens ; the berries are of medium size, very rich flavoured, and ripen gradually without de- teriorating. Bunker's Hill, Capper's. Two hundred and ten prizes were awarded for this variety in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 2 grains. Britannia. This variety is noted for its earliness and delicious flavour. The fruit is of medium size, weighing about 18 dwts. Cottagk Girl, Heaps's. This variety won one hundred and thirty-three prizes in two seasons; the largest berry weighing 19 dwts. 14 grains. Golden Gourd. Hill's. A fine early fruit of medium size; shape ob- long ; skin thin, slightly hairy, of rich flavour, and not apt to mildew. GOLDKN Yellow, Dixon's This is a favourite, medium sized, early fruit for private gardens; the skin is smooth, thin, and transparent, and the berries will hang some time without becoming flat and insipid. Gunner, Hrdcastle's. One hundred and ninety-two prizes were given for this variety in 1828; and in 1829 one hundred and eighty-one prizes were awarded ; the heaviest berry weighing 24 dwts. 5 grain.s ; fruit rather late. 68 GOOSEBERRY. Invincibi-k, Hmjicooffs. This celebrated fruit is of mcflium size, weigh- ing about 18 dwts; skin thin, transparent; pulp saccharine and deli- cious. KiLTON Hero, Hamlefs Kilton. One of the best early yellow fruited gooseberries ; fruit oblonc, slightly hairy, excellent for cooking while im- mature, and delicious eating when fully ripe. Regulator, PropheCs. A very fine fruit, of medium size and rich acid flavour ; good for bottling, being firm, and not liable to crack. RocKwooD, Prophet's- The fruit of this variety is very early; it is of a roundish, oblong shape, and slightly hairy. It won three hundred and three prizes in two years ; the largest hrrry weighing 21 dwts. 3 grains. Sovereign, Brafkerton's- Two hundred and two prizes were obtained for this variety in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 17 grains. Viper, Gordon's. This is an early smooth fruit, and won eighty-seven prizes in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 5 grains. GREEN. Angler, Collier's. Three hundred and sixty-five prizes were awarded for this variety in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 1 grain. Kari.y Green, Hairy. This variety is described in the Pomological Magazine as a very early fruit; it is round, hairy, of a deep green colour and excellent flavour, but not large. Favourite, Bates's- Two hundred and thirty-five prizes were given for this variety in two years; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 20 grains. Greenwood, Berry's. This variety obtained two hundred and four prizes in two seasons; the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 4 grains. It is a deliciously flavoured fruit. Green Gage, Pitiiiaston's. A beautiful berry of medium size ; skin pale green, smooth and transparent ; will hang long on the bush, and retain its rich acid flavour when fully ripe. Green Myrtle, Nixon's. A fine late gooseberry of large size, oblong shape ; skin smooth, of pale green colour ; pulp saccharine, juicy, and of peculiar rich flavour. Heart of Oak, Massey's. Fruit of medium size, early; skin smooth, green, with pale yellow veins ; pulp rich, and high flavoured even when fully ripe. Independent, Bigg's. One hundred and twenty-one prizes were given for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 16 dwts. 4 grains. It is an early rich fruit. Jolly Tar, Edwards's. Fruit early, of medium size ; skin smooth, green, with yellow veins ; average weight about 1.5 dwts ; good to preserve while immature, and of delicious flavour when fully ripe. Laurki., Parkinson's- Fruit of medium size ; skin pale green, very downy ; an excellent dessert fruit, in great repute. Lord Crkwe, Glutton's. This celebrated variety obtained ninety-six prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weiiihing about 23 dwts. It is a prolific bearer, and worthy of general cultivation. Ocean, Wainman's- This variety won two hundred and seventy-eight GOOSEBERRY. G9 pnies in iwo seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 8 grains. The fruit is oblong and smooth. Troublur, Moore^s. One hundred and sixty prizes were taken for this variety in two years • the largest berry weighing 17 dwts. 13 grains. WisTASTON Hero, Bratherton's- Fruit of medim size, pale green co- lour ; of rich pungent flavour ; excellent for preserves, and when fully ripe it is a delicious dessert fruit. WHITE. Bonny Lass, Capper's. This variety won one hundred and sixty-seven prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 21 dwts. 10 grains. Cheshire Lass, Saunders's. This is one of the earliest varieties, and makes excellent tarts. The fruit is Urge, oblong, downy, and fine flavoured. Governess, Bratherton's. One hundred and twenty-four prizes were awarded for this variety in two years ; the largest berry weighing 24 dwts. Lady Delamere, Wylds's. This variety took two hundred and fifty- three prizes in two seasons ; the heaviest berry weighing 22 dwts. 6 grains. Lady of the Manor. This variety won ninety-eight prizes in two seasons, the heaviest berry weighing 20 dwts. 9 grains. It is held in great esteem for its productiveness. Lioness. Fruit of medium size, oblong shape; skin thin, transparent; pulp and juice saccharine and delicious. Nailer, Blu/niley's. One hundred and thirty-four prizes were given for this variety in two seasons ; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 12 grains. Queen Caroline. This variety won one hundred and forty-two prizes in two years ; the heaviest berry weighing 18 dwts. 1 grain. It is a richly flavoured fruit. Sheba Queen, Crompton's. This is a favourite variety for private gar- dens ; the fruit is early, of medium size ; shape oblong ; skin rather downy ; pulp pungent and rich. Smiling Girl. This is a smallish early fruit, with thin transparent skin, and of peculiarly rich flavour even when fully ripe. Wellington's Glory. One hundred and seventy-three prizes were ob- tained in two seasons for this variety ; the largest berry weighing 20 dwts. 4 grains. White Bear. Moore's- A fine early dessert fruit ; of medium size and oblong shape ; skin hairy and somewhat bristly ; a prolific bearer. White Eagle. This variety gained four hundred and seventy-six prizes in two seasons; the heaviest berry weighing 23 dwts. 12 grains. White Lion, ChelWorth's- One hundred and two prizes were given for this variety in two years; the largest berry weighing 18 dwts. 22 grains. The fruit is late, slightly hairy, and excellent for tarts. Whitesmith, Woodward's. This is a small early berry, weighing about 14 dwts. The skin is downy, and the fruit is fully equal to any gooseberry of its colour. The GoosebeiTy may be propagated by all the modes ap- plicable to trees or shrubs, but that by cuttings is usually adopted for continuing varieties, and that by seed for pro- 70 GOOSEBERRY. curing them. The cuttings should be taken from promising shoots just before the leaves begin to fall in the autumn; the gieatest part of the buds should be taken off, leaving only two or three buds on the top. Cut them at such a length as the strength and ripeness of the wood will bear j and plant them in good pulverized soil. On the approach of winter, lay some moss or litter around them ; and, by being well cultiva>.ed, they will be fit to transplant when they are a year old. When bushes are procured from the jaublic nurseries, let the general supply be in such kinds as will rijjen in succes- sion. They may be planted in the kitchen garden, in single rows, along the side of the walks or paths, or in compart- ments by themselves, in rows from six to eight ieet apart from row to row, and five or six feet apart in the rows ; oi in small gardens, they may be trained to a single tall stem, and tied to a stake ; this, though six or eight feet high, occa- sions scaj'cely any shade, and it does not occupy mucli room, nor exclude air, while, at the same time, the stem becomes closely hung with berries, and makes a pleasant appearance in that state. Persons of taste may train them on arched trel- lises, and if they are judiciously managed, the ground around them may be more easily cultivated ; the fruit may be kept from being splashed with rain, and may be easily gathered when wanted, or preserved by shading with mats, &c. Those who may have a choice of soil and site, should fix on a good, rich, loamy earth, and plant some of the choice kinds in a northern and eastern aspect, near the fence, to come late ic succession. The Gooseberry produces its fruit not only on the shoot? of the preceding year, and ou shoots two or three years old, but also on spurs or snags arising from the older branches along the sides ; but the former afford the largest fruit. The shoots retained for bearers should therefore be left at full length, or nearly so ; the first pruning should be done befi)re the buds swell, so as not to endanger their being rubbed off GOOSEBERRY. 71 in the operation. Cut out all the superfluous cross shoots, and prune long ramblers and low stragglers to some well placed lateral or eye : retain a sufficiency of the young well situated laterals and terminals to form successional bearers. In cutting out superfluous and decayed wood, be careful to retain a leading shoot at the end of a principal branch. The superfluous young laterals on the good main branches, in- stead of being taken off clean, may be cut into little stubs of one or two eyes, which will send out fruit buds and spurs. Some persons not pruning the Gooseberry bush on right principles, cause it to shoot crowdedly full of young wood in summer, the fruit from which is always small, and does not ripen freely with full flavour ; on which account it is an important point in pruning, to keep the middle of the head open and clear, and to let the occasional shortening of the shoots be sparing and moderate. Between the bearing branches keep a regulated distance of at least six inches at the extremities, which will render them fertile bearers of good fruit. The prize cultivators of this fruit in Lancashire are par- ticular in preparing a very rich soil, and they water occa- sionally with the liquor which drains from dunghills ; and there are some who, not content wdth watering at the root and over the top, place a small saucer of water under each Gooseberry, only six or eight of which are left on a bush ; this is technically called suckling. There are others who ting some of the branches; this is done by cutting out small circles of bark round them ; and by pinching off" a great part of the young wood, the strength is thrown to the fruiL Unripe Gooseberries may be preserved in bottles against winter : some, after filling the bottles in a dry state, stand them in a slow oven, or in hot water, so as to heat them gradually through without cracking them ; they will keep a whole year if closely corked and sealed as soon as cold. The Gooseberry may be forced in pots or boxes, placed in pits, or in the peach house or vinery. " Hay plants in 72 QRAPE. pots in November, removes to the peach house in January, and has ripe fruit in the end of April, which he sends to table growing on the plants." — Horl. Trans, iv. 415. GRAPE. ViGNE. Vitis, vinifera, viilpina. The Grape Vine is described by Loudon as a trailing deciduous hardy shrub, with a twisted, irregular stem, and long, flexible branches, decumbent, like those of the bramble, or supporting themselves, when near other trees, by means of tendrils, like the pea. The leaves are large, lobed, entire, or serrated and downy, or smooth, green in summer, but when mature, those of varieties in which the predomi- nating colour is red, constantly change to, or are tinged with some shade of that colour ; and those of white, gieen, or yellow Grapes, as constantly change to yellow, and are never in the least tinged either with purple, red, or scarlet. The breadth of the leaves varies from five to seven or ten inches, and ihe length of the foot stalks from four to eight inches. The flovv'ers are produced on the shoots of the same year, which shoots generally proceed from those of the year preceding : they are in the form of a raceme, of a greenish white colour, and fragrant odour, a])pearing in the open air in June ; and the fruit, which is of the berry kind, attains such maturity as the season and situation admit, by the middle or end of September. The berry, or Grape, is generally globular, but often ovate, oval, oblong, or finger- shaped ; the colour green, red, yellow, amber, and black, or a variegation of two or more of these colours. The skin is smooth, the pulp and juice of a dulcet, poignant, elevated, generous flavour. Every berry ought to enclose five small heart or pear shaped stones ; thomgh, as some generally fail, they have seldom more than three, and some varieties, GRAPE 73 when they attain a certain age, as the Aacalou, or Sultana raisin, none. The weight of a berry depends not only on Its size, but on the thickness of its skin and texture of the flesh, the lightest being the thin-skinned and juicy sorts, as the Sweet Water or Muscadine ; and what are considered as large beriied of these varieties, will weigh from five to seven pennyweights, and measure from one to two-thirds of an inch in girth. A good-sized bunch of the same sorts may weigh from two to six pounds ; but bunches have been grown of the Syrian Grape, in Syria, weighing forty pounds, and in England weighing from ten to nineteen pounds. A single vine, in a large pot, or grown as a dwarf standard, iu the manner practised in the vineyards in the North of France, ordinarily produces from three to nine bunches ; but by superior management in gardens in England, the number ^f bunches is prodigiously increased, and one plant, that of the red Hamburgh sort, in the vinery of the royal gardens at Hampton Court, has produced two thousand two hundred bunches, averaging one pound each, or iU' all nearly a ton. That at Valentine, in Essex, has produced two thousand bunches of nearly the same average weight. The age to which the vine will attain in \varm climates is so great as not to be known. It is supposed to oe equal or even to surpass that of the oak. Pliny speaks of a vinr which had existed six hundred years ; and Bose says, there are vines in Burgundy upward of four hundred ^ears of age In Italy there are vineyards which have been in a flour ishing state for upward of three centuries, and Miller tells us that a vineyard a hundred years old is reckoned young. The extent of the branches of the vine, in certain situations and circumstances, is commensurate with its produce and soil. In the hedges of Italy, and woods of America, they are found overtopping the highest elm and poplar trees ; and in England, one plant, (lately dead,) trained against a row of houses in Northallerton, covered a space, in 1585, of one hundred and thir:y-se ren square yards; it was then above 7 74 GRAPE. one hundred years old. That at Hampton Court, nearly of the same age, occupies above one hundred and sixty square yards ; and that at Valentine, in Essex, above one hundred and forty-seven square yards. The size to which the trunk, or stem, sometimes attains in warm climates, is so great as to have afforded planks fifteen inches broad, furniture, and statues; and the Northallerton vine, above mentioned, in 1785 measured four feet in ciicumference near the ground, and one branch of the Hampton Court vine measures one hundred and fourteen feet in length. Vine timber is of great durability. The varieties of the Grape in countries where it is grown for the wine press, are as numerous as the vineyards ; for as these for the most part differ in soil, aspect, elevation, or otherwise, and as the vine is greatly the child of local cir- cumstances, its habits soon become adapted to those in which it is placed. When it is considered that a vineyard once planted will last two or three centuries, it will readily be conceived that the nature of a variety may be totally changed during only a pait of that time. The varieties mostly in esteem for wine making are small beriies, and bunches with an austere taste. The Burgundy, as modified by different soils and situations, may be considered the most general vineyai'd Grape of France, from Champagne or Marne, to Marseilles or Bordeaux. The best wine in Italy and Spain is also made from Grapes of this description ; but in both countries many of the larger- berried sorts are grown on account of their producing more liquor. The sweet wines, as the Malmsey, Madeira, Con- stantia, Tokay, &c., are made from sweet-berried Grapes, allowed to remain on the plants till over-i'ipe. That wine is the strongest, and has most flavour, in which both the skins and stones are bruised and fermented. The same thing is the case in making cider; but in both processes bruising the stones or kernels is neglected. The vine was formerly extensively cultivated in Britain for the wine press. GRAPE. 75 but its culture is now confined to the garden as a dessert fruit ; and they have in that country not only the best varie- ties, but they grow the fruit to a larger size, and of a higher flavour, than is done any where else in the world ; this is owing to the perfection of their artificial climates, and the great attention paid to soil and subsoil, and other points of culture. The fruit is produced in some vineries during every month in the year ; and in the London markets (generally) it is to be had in the highest degree of perfection from March to January. The vine will thrive in any soil that has a dry bottom ; and in such as are rich and deep it will grow luxuriantly, and produce abundance of large fruit ; in shallow, dry, chalky, or gravelly soils, it will produce less fruit, but of better flavour. Speedily recommends dung reduced to a black mould, the dust and dirt of roads, the oflal of animals, or butchers' manure, horn shavings, old rags, shavings of leather, bone dust, dung of deer and sheep, human excre- ment when duly meliorated by time, a winter's frost, and repeatedly turning over. Abercrombie says that dung out of a cow-house, perfectly rotted, is a fine manure for the vine ; he recommends drainlngs fiom dunghills to be used over the ground once in ten or fourteen days from the time the buds rise, till the fruit is set, and that fresh horse dung be spread over the ground in autumn as a manure, and also to protect the roots from the inclemency of the weather; some, however, disappi'ove of manuring high, as being cal- culated to produce wood rather than fruit.* The general mode of propagating the vine is by cuttings, either a foot or more long, with a portion of two year old * It has been proved by repeated experiments that the best manure for vines, is the branches pruned from the vines themselves, cut into small pieces and mixed with the soil by means of a garden hoe. Dr. Liebig, in his 'Organic Chemistry,' mentions several instances of vines being kept in a thriving condition for from ten to thirty years by the trimmings of vines alone. The discovery was made by poor peasants, who could not atTord to buy the ordinary kinds of manure. 76 GRAPE. wood, or short, with only one bud, or one bud and a half joint, &c. Vines are to be had at the nurseries, piopagated either from layers, cuttings, or eyes ; but plants raised from cuttings are generally prefeiTed ; many are of opinion that it is a matter of indifierence from which class the choice is made, provided the plants are well rooted, and in good health, and the wood ripe. A mode of very general utility is to select the j)lants in the nursery a year before wanted, and to order them to be potted in very large pots. Varie- ties without end are raised from seed, and it is thought that by projiagating from the seed of successive generations, some sorts may ultimately be procured, better adapted for ripening their fruit in the open air than now known. A seedling vine, carefully treated, will show blossoms in its fourth or fifth year ; say that it produces a fair sj^ecimen of Its fruit in the sixth year, then a new generation may be obtained so often ; but seed ought never to be sown, except fin' experiment. The following method of gi'afting the vine is recommended by Mr. Loudon : Select a scion with one good eye ; pare it beneath the eye and on the opposite side, in the form of a wedge. Select from the stock to be grafted on, a branch of the preceding year ; cut this off' a little above the second eye from its base ; then with a sharp knife split it down the centie nearly to the old wood. Out of each half of the stock, but chiefly out of that half which is opposite the bud, pare off as much as is necessary to make it fit the scion, which must be inserted with its eye opposite to the eye which is left on the top of the stock, and bandaged together carefully with bass matting. Some use grafting clay, others composition ; in either case, a small hole for the eye of the graft, and another hole for the eye left on the stuck, must be left open. Tie over a little moss, to be occasionally sprin- kled with water. It is very essential that the young shoot on the top of the stock should be allowed to grow for ten or fifteen days ; then cut it off", leaving only one eye and one DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF GRAPES. 77 leaf to draw the sap and keep alive the circulation, till both scion and stock are perfectly united. William Robert Prince, in his Treatise on the Vine, pub- lished in 1830, enumerated about five hundred and fifty va- rieties under cultivation, in the vineyard attached to the Lin- nsean Botanic Garden at Flushing, including about ninety American native Grapes ; but no sufficient evidence has as yet been exhibited of the foreign varieties flourishing in vineyards here, equal to what they do in Europe. Mr. Lou- bat once attempted to establish a vineyard on Long Island, which he abandoned after six years' arduous exertion. The following have been found to succeed best in private shel- tered gardens in the vicinity of New- York : the Sweetwater, the Chasselas, the Muscadine, the White Tokay, the Black Hamburgh, the Blue Cortiga, the Miller Burgundy, the Austrian Muscadel, the Messlier, the Morilon, the Black Piince, Blanc, and some excellent seedling sorts from the imported Lisbon Grapes. To plant a vinery for a full crop of good Grapes of various flavours, take a white and red Muscat, a white and red, or black Muscadel, a white Raisin Grape, a white and red Hamburgh, a Stilwell's, and red Sweetwater, a white and red Nice, a black Damascus, a red Syracuse, and a- black Constantia. The above list con- tains some of the most esteemed table Grapes of all colours and flavours, which will ripen in succession. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NATIVE GRAPES. Alexander, Constantia of Vevay, Madeira of York, Pa-, Winne, Schuyl- kAll Muscadel. A good wine fruit, of large size, blackish colour, and ob- long form; very juicy and pungent ; a ^reat and sure bearer. Bland, Bland's Madeira, Bland's Virginia, Mazzci, Fou-el. A pale red grape, of large size and round shape, rather musky, but the juice is sweet and lively. Carolina Perfumed. A medium sized fruit, of purple colour and rather an unpleasant odour ; it is, however, considered as well adapted for wine, being rather pungent, very juicy, and pulpless. J* 78 GRAPE. Catawba, Red Muncy, To Kalon. A fine variety, above medium size, of dark red colour, in form round, in flavour delicious for tlie dessert, and highly productive ; it ripens soon after the Isabella. Cunningham. A native of Prince Edward's county, Virginia; the Ixjr- ries are round, black, of medium size, and not liable to rot ; they are 8:iid to resemble, in taste, the NigriUo of Madeira, and are considered good for wine as well as for the table. Elsinburg. Fruit small, round, of purple colour, and delicate musky flavour, without pulp ; good for wine, and as a dessert fruit ; the vine is very hardy and productive. Hide's Eliza. Berries large, oval, of violet colour, and excellent fla- vour ; alike suited for the dessert and for wine. Isabella. A well known and highly estimated variety. Fruit large, oval, of rich purple colour, covered with bloom ; skin, under good cultiva- tion, thin ; flesh juicy, rich, and vinous ; an excellent dessert fruit. LuFBORouGH. A sweet fox grape of large size and round shape; skin, dark purple ; pulp dissolving in a saccharine musky juice; good for wine Maddox. a good wine grape, not liable to rot ; it is of medium size ; roundish ; of a brownish red colour, and a brisk vinous flavour. Norton's Virginia Seedling, Longivorth''s Ohio. An early fruit of medium size and dark purple colour; it ripens in September ; makes ex- cellent wine ; it is also generally approved as a dessert fruit. Pond's Seedling. A large purple grape of roundish form, thin skin, and of rich pungent flavour; adapted for wine, as well as for the table. Scuppernong. This species is very prolific ; the berries are large, round- ish, and of a colour varying from brick red to black; makes peculiar Mus- cat wine, and is highly esteemed as a dessert fruit. Warrkn, Madeira. A round fruit of medium size and dark purple co lour ; it is considered by some as the most luscious of all native grapes ; it makes excellent wine. Woodson. A small round black Virginian variety, from Prince Edward's county ; it is celebrated as a very proper fruit for the manufocture of sparkling wine ; it ripens later than most otiier varieties, but yields abun- dantly. The above list comprises the most esteemed species of Native Grapes under cultivation ; the greater part of which, with the best of the foreign varieties, may be purchased at the Commercial Garden and Nursery of Messrs. Parsons & Co., Flushing, Long Island, near New- York. Previous to planting vines, care should be taken that the ground be well pulverized and prepared for some distance around for the roots to spread. The soil should be deep and dry, and some rich compost, or vegetable mould, should be used around the roots in filling in ; a handful or two of wet GRAPE. 79 ashes to each plant is recommended by ]Mr. Loubat, as bene- ficial ; and he recommends the planting to be done in the month of March, or early in April. There are various methods adopted in training and prun- ing the vine ; and it appears impossible to lay down rules to suit every cultivator. The vine having, like other trees, a tendency to produce its most vigorous shoots at the ex- tremities of the branches, and particularly so at those w^hich are situated highest, it generally happens, when it is trained high, that the greater portion of the fruit is borne near the top ; and it has been observed, that the fruit produced on the vigorous shoots, which naturally grow at the extremities of the long branches, is generally more abundant, and of finer quality than that produced on the short lateral ones, from which circumstance, high training seems to be the best calculated for private gardens. In some parts of Italy, vines are cultivated together with Mulberry trees, and are allowed to mingle and hang in fes- toons ; thus silk and wine are produced on the same spot ; and it is considered that when vines are allowed to grow over trees, on the side of a house, or on bowers, or extended on tall poles, without much trimming, they will produce more fruit, and are not so liable to mildew. Dr. G. W. Chapman, of New- York, having paid some attention to the cultivation of native Grapes, observes, that the vine, in its natural state, seldom or never throws out bearing shoots until it reaches the top of the tree on which it ascends, when the branches take a horizontal or descend- ing position. From this fact he considers horizontal training preferable to that in the fan shape. From the experiments he has made, he has found that the shoots coming from those parts of the branches bent downward, are more productive than from those ascending; he considers deep digging around the vine, even to the destruction of some of the ex- tending roots, as calculated to promote the growth of more fruit and less wood, than if allowed to spread near the sur- 80 GRAPE. face ; and he disapproves stopping the shoots before the fruit until early in July. Mr. William Wilson, of Clermont, leaves his foreign vines their whole length at the time of trimming in October. In November, they are laid on the ground at full length, fastened down with pins, and covered lightly with earth ; in this state they lie all the winter. In April, as soon as the weather will permit, they are uncovered, and left lying on the ground ten or twelve days : by the first of May, the vines are trained to stakes or poles of the length of ten feet and upward ; and by the middle of June the stakes are entirely covered by new shoots of the vine, and with plenty of fruit, which ripens in September. Mr. W. says, that until he pursued his present course, his fruit was frequently blasted and mil- dewed, but that he has now vines twenty or thirty feet long, which run up the fruit trees adjoining ; others, being carried up eight or ten feet, are stretched horizontally. It is seldom he gathers fruit within three or four feet of the gi-ound, and he has never any blasted or infected with mildew ; he keeps the ground cultivated by frequent hoeing ; but he says he has used no manure for ten years or more. Edward H. Bonsall has a vineyard of American Grapes at Germantown, Pa., in a high state of cultivation. In page 331 of Prince's Treatise on the Vine, is a letter to the au- thor, containing some valuable information, from which the following is extracted as appropriate to our subject. Mr. Bonsall's vineyard is situated between the Schuylkill and Delaware Rivers, four miles from the former, and eight from the latter, at an elevation of three hundred feet above their level; has an aspect facing S. S. E., with a substratum of light isinglass soil, and seems well suited to the purpose. He says, " from my experience, both on my premises and at other places, it is my opinion that we should reject almost all the foreign varieties, especially where our object in culti- vating them is to make wine." He has upward of thirty varieties of American vines under cultivation ; he recom- QRAPE. SI mends preparing the ground by ploughing with two ploughs with strong teams, one immediately behind the other, in the same furrow, each of them set deep ; and after the plough- ing is completed, to be harrowed thoroughly. Then in the direction the rows are intended to be planted, parallel fur- rows are run across the field, at the distance of eight feet from each other ; these are afterward crossed at right an gles, five feet asunder. In the opening, at the intersection of these furrows, cuttings from nine to twelve inches long are planted, and arranged with a view to the vines being, when grown, at distances of four by seven feet from each other; to this end, he frequently plants two cuttings in a place, some of which are used to fill up with, in case of failures. He says, that in 1829 he planted in nursery beds from two to three thousand cuttings as late as the middle of April to the middle of May, with better success than at any previous time. " In this case the slips should be Icept in a cool, damp place, where vegetation may be held in check. To insure their freshness, sprinkle them occasionally with water. Previous to planting cut them a proper length, and place them with their lower ends three or four inches in water, in a tub above ground, where they may soak three or four days. At this season the temperature will be likely to be such as to spur vegetation at once into healthy and vigorous action. The autumn, or early in the spring, is preferable for rooted plants. In the autumn of the first year, after the frost has killed the unripe part of the young shoots, they should be pruned down to the mature, firm wood, and then with a hoe hilled over with the surrounding soil, which will completely protect them through the winter. If left without protection the first winter, many of them \vill perish." Mr. Bonsall says, his mode of training, as far as he is aware of it, is entirely peculiar to himself, which he describes as follows : " I take chestnut posts, the thickness of large fence rails, seven feet in length ; these I plant along the 82 GRAPE. rows, at distances of ten feet from each other, and at such a depth as to leave five feet above the surface of the earth ; then taking three nails to each post, and driving them to within half an inch of their heads, the first two and a half feet from the ground, a second midway between that and the top, and the third near the top, I attach No. 11 iron wire (one degree soft is best) firmly to one of the nails in the end post, pass on to the next, and stretching it straight and tight, give it one turn round a nail in the same line as the one to which it was first attached. Having in this manner extended it along the three courses, the whole length of the row, my trellis is formed. I have had a portion of my vine- yard fitted up in this way for three years, and experience has confirmed the superior fitness of the plan. It is not its least recommendation, that it possesses in a degree the cha- racter of labour-saving machinery. A very important and extensive labour-making portion of the operations in the vineyard during the summer, is the attention required by the growing shoots to keep them properly trained up. They grow and extend themselves so rapidly, that where the strips of the trellis are lath, or where poles are used to support vines, unless very closely watched, they fall down in every direction, in a very unsightly and injurious manner. Here the wire being small, the tendrils (n- claspers eagerly and firmly attach themselves to it, and thus work for themselves in probably two-thirds of the instances where the attention of the vigneron would otherwise be required. There is a free access afforded to the sun and air, and no hold for the wind to strain the frame," &c. Mr. Bonsall says faither, " I shall not enter into a minute description of my manner of pruning, but may just say, that after the vines have attained a full capacity for jiioduction, (say five years from the cut- ting,) my view is to piepare them for bearing an average of fifty clusters to each, leaving several shoots of from three to five joints on a vine for this purpose. When fresh pruned, they vnll not be more tlian four feet high, at their greatest age." GRAPE. 83 Dr. R. T. Underhill, of New- York, has a vineyard at Croton Point, near Sing Sing, where, after having sunk thousands of dollars in attempting to raise the most cele- brated foreign varieties, he abandoned the project as vision- ary, and commenced planting the Isabella Grape in 1832, and the Catawba in 1835. Mr. Underhill has now upward of twenty acres of these grapes, chiefly of the former, un- der the most successful cultivation. He says that the Isa- bella Grape ripens two or three weeks earlier than the Ca- tawba, and that these two varieties are, in his estimation, the best adapted for general purposes ; the former yielding with him a more valuable crop than any other with which he is ac- quainted. He says that the quality of this fruit has improved very much within a few years, the clusters and berries being much larger and sweeter; and that they are capable of still greater improvement by high cultivation. The following extracts are from Dr. Underbill's commu- nication to the editor of the ' Cultivator,' published January 28th, 1843 : " In this latitude, (south o£ the highlands of the Hudson,) I find that the Isabella Grape ripens quite as well when planted in a level field, protected from the north and west winds by woods or hedges, as on declivities. Several of my vineyards are thus located, and, as far as I can perceive, the fruit ripens at about the same time, and is of the same quality as those planted on steep side-hills. I think, how- ever, that north of the highlands, side-hills would be prefer- able. To prepare the ground for a vineyard, the best way is to turn over the whole of the surface soil from fifteen to eighteen inches in depth, early in the spring, by ploughing twice in the same furrow. This will place the richest part of the soil in a position where it will give the greatest sup- ply of nourishment to the vines. Few vineyards in this country have been prepared in this way ; but the cost is so small and the advantages so great, that it should be done wherever there are no rocks or large stones to prevent it." 84 GRAPE. The following observations on the destruction of the Rose- bug, were also publi.sliec] in the ' Cultivator,' Sept. 13, 1842 : " I observed that when the rose-bugs first appeared on the vines, they were so feeble as to be unable to fly even for a few yards. Having suimounted all other difficulties, I was determined not to be defeated in the vineyard cultivation of the Grape by this insect, and consequently resorted to the following means for its destruction. I directed my men to take each a cup, with a little water in it, and go through the vineyards every morning, removing every bug from the vines ; and this was done quite rapidly by passing the cup under the leaf and merely ttjuching it, when the bugs in- stantly dropped, and were received in the cup containing the water. When the cup was full, they were soon destroyed by pressing the foot upon them on a hard surface. This plan was persevered in every morning as long as a bug could be found, and was attended with such success, that they have given me very little trouble since. I also tried plough- ing my vineyards just before winter set in, so as to expose to the weather the insect in the larva? state, which will certaiidy destroy the young tribe that have not descended. below the reach of the plough. For two years past the number has been so small that 1 have omitted this process for their destruction. — li. T. Undeyliill." Although the man of taste and capacity for improving on the improvements of others, may have gleaned ideas from the above extracts, sufficient to enable him to cultivate the vine in his own garden, it may be necessary to diiect the reader's attention to the different methods of cultivating this excellent fruit in varied situati(jns. A vine may be trained horizontally under the coping of a close fence or wall, to a great distance, and the borders in an east, southeast, and southern aspect of large gardens, may be furnished with a variety of sorts, which will ripen in great perfection, without encumbering the borders; or the plants may be trained low, like currant bushes; in GRAPE. 85 which case, three or more shoots, eis^hteen inches or two feet in length, may diverge from the stem near the ground, to supply young wood anTiually for hearing. The summer pruning consists in removing shoots which have no fruit, or are not required for the succeeding season ; and in topping fruit-bearing shoots, and also those for succeeding years, when inconveniently long and straggling. For as, by this mode, the shoots destined to bear are all cut into three or four eyes at the winter pruning, no inconvenience arises from their throwing out laterals near the extremities, which top- ping will generally cause them to do. In training vines as standards, the single stem at the bot- tom is not allowed to exceed six or eight inches in height, and from this two or three shoots are trained, or tied to a single stake of three or four feet in length. These shoots bear each two or three bunches, within a foot or eighteen inches of the gi'ound, and they are annually succeeded by others which spring from their base, that is, from the crown or top of the dwarf main stem. This is the mode practised in the North of France and in Germany ; in the South of France and Italy, the base or main stem is often higher, and furnished with side shoots, in order to afford a great supply of bearing wood, which is tied to one or more poles of greater height. The summer pruning, in this case, is nearly the same as in the last. In the winter pruning, the wood that has borne is cut out, and the new wood shortened, in cold situations, to three or four eyes, and in warmer places, to six or eight eyes. Nicol observes, that " Most of the summer pruning of vines may be performed with the fingers, without a knife, the shoots to be displaced being easily rubbed off, and those to be shortened, being little, are readily pinched asunder." After selecting the shoots to be trained for the production of a cio}) next season, and others necessary for filling the trellis from the bottom, which shoots should generally be laid in at the distance oi' a foot or fifteen inches from each other, 8 W GRAPE. rub off all the others ttiat have no clusters, and shmten those that have, at one joint above the uppermost cluster. For this purpose, go over the plants every three or four days till all the shoots in fruit have shown their clusters, at the same time I'ubbing off any water shoots that may rise from the wood. Train in the shoots to be retained, as they advance. If there be an under trellis, on which to train the summer shoots, they may, when six or eight feet in length, or when the Grapes are swelling, be let down to it, that the fruit may enjoy the full air and light as it advances toward maturity. Such of these shoots as issue from the bottom, and are to be shortened in the winter pruning to a few eyes, merely for the production of wood to fill the trellis, may be stopped when they have grown to the length of four or five feet. Others that are intended to be cut down to about two yards., and which issue at different heights, may be stopped when they have run three yards, or ten feet, less or more, accord- ing to their strength. And those intended to be cut at or near the top of the trellis, should be trained a yard, or twa down the back, or a trellis may be placed so as to form an arbour ; or they may be placed to run light or left a few feet on the uppermost wire. The stubs or shoots on which the clusters are placed will probably push again after being stopped, if the plants be vigorous. If so, stop them again and again ; but after the fruit are half grown, they will seldom spring. Observe to divest the shoots, in training, of all laterals as they appear, except the uppermost on each, in order to provide against accidents, as hinted before, in training the newly-planted vines. When these shoots are stopped, as directed above, they will push again. Allow the lateral that pushes, to run a few joints, and then shorten it back to one, and so on as it pushes, until it stops entirely. When the proper shoots get ripened nearly to the top, the whole may be cut back to the originally shortened part, or to one joint above it, if thera ORAPE, 87 be reason to fear that ine uppermost bud of the proper shoot will start. Divest the plants of all damped and decayed leaves as they appear, as such will sometimes occur in continued hazy weather, and be particularly cautious not to injure the leaf that accompanies the bunch, for if that is lost, the fruit will be of little value. " Every one of penetratirm and discernment," Nicol ob- serves, " will admit the utility of thinning the berries on bunches of Grapes, in order that they may have room to swell fully ; and, farther, that of supporting the shoulders of such clusters of the large growing kinds as hang loosely, and require to be suspended to the trellis or branches, in order to prevent the bad effects of damp or mouldiness in very moist seasons. Of these, the Hamburgh, Lorabardy, Royal Muscadine, Raisin, St. Peter's, Syrian, Tokay, and others, should have their shoulders suspended to the trellis, or to the branches, by strands of fresh matting, when the berries are about the size of garden peas. At the same time, the clusters should be regularly thinned out with narrow pointed scissors, to the extent of from a fourth to a third part of the berries. The other close-growing kinds, as the Frontignacs, Muscats, &:c., should likewise be moderately thinned, observing to thin out the small seedless berries only of the Muscadine, Sweet Water, and flame-coloured Tokay, In this manner, handsome bunches and full-swelled berries may be obtained ; but more so, if the clusters or over-bur- dened plants be also moderately thinned away. Indeed, cutting ftfl" the clusters, to a certain extent, of plants over- loaded, a/id pushing weak wood, are the only means by which to cause them to produce shoots fit to bear fi-uit next year; and this t^hould be duly attended to, so long as the future welfare of the plants is a matter of importance." The preceding observations may be considered as falling short of what may be expected on the cultivation of so im- portant a fruit as the Grape ; but it is introduced into this 88 MULBERRY. book only as a dessert fruit. The modes of training in vineyards and vineries are alike suited to tlie gaiden. Low training may be practised in borders or hedge rows, in large gardens ; and high training in sheltered situations, on high trellises or arbours. By proper management, the vine may be elevated to the middle story of a house by a single stem, and afterwards trained to a great height according to the taste of the proprietor. As the vine is often trained near buildings, an awning may be conveniently formed over the tops so as to admit of fumigating the vine witii smoke from tobacco, &c., as may be necessary in the summer season ; or a sort of movable tent may be made of light boards, and cheap glazed linen, or an old sail, &c., capable of coveiing the vine while a smoke is created underneath ; this will elFectuaHy destroy such insects as may annoy the vine, and may prevent mildew and other diseases. MULBERRY. MuRiER. JVIorus. There are several species of the Morus or IMulberry. The white kind is commonly cultivated for its leaves to feed silkworms, though in some parts of Spain, and in Persia, they are said to prefer the Black Mulberry. In China, it appears that both sorts are grown for this purpose. The most esteemed variety of the white is grown in Italy, and especially in Lombardy, with vigorous shoots, and much larger leaves than the other. The Morus mullicauiis is cul- tivated in many parts of France, and is by some preferred to all other vaiieties. It is said that a less quantity of foliage from this variety will satisfy the silkworms. The late An- drew Parmentier, Esq., was the means of introducing seve- ral choice varieties from that country ; and our mirserymen in general, have of late years, turned their attention to the MULBERRY. 89 cultivation of such as are best adapted to silkworms, which are sold at moderate prices. In France, the white Mulbeny is grown as pollard Elms are in England. In Lombardy, it is grown in low, marshy ground. In China, it is also grown in moist, loamy soil, and both there and in the East Indies, as low bushes, and the plantations rooted up and renewed every three or four years. In many parts, when the leaves are wanted for the worms, they are stripped off the young shoots, which are left naked on the tree ; in other places, the shoots are cut off, which is not so injurious to the tree, while the points ol the shoots, as well as the leaves, are eaten by the worms. The plants are sometimes raised from seed, and one ounce of seed will produce five thousand trees, if sown in rich loamy soil in the latter end of April, or early in May ; but the young plants will require protection the first winter ; they are more commonly propagated by layers and cuttings, put down in tlie spring. The Italian variety is frequently grafted on seedling stocks of the common sort, in order to preserve it from degenerating. In the East Indies, the plants are raised from cuttings, three or four of which are placed together where they are finally to remain. But Mulberry trees are valuable for their fruit ; and in England the black and red kinds are in great esteem, and much cultivated. The fruit of the white Mulberry is white, and less acid than that of the black species. The black is naturally a stronger tree than the other; the fruit is of a dark, blackish red, and of an agreeable aromatic and acid flavour. The red Mulberiy has black shoots, rougher leaves than the black Mulberry, and a dark, reddish fruit, longer than the common sort, and of a very pleasant taste. The fruit of the yellow Mulberry is very sweet and wholesome, but not much eaten, excepting by birds ; the timber, how- ever, is valuable, from its abounding in a slightly glutinous milk of a sulphurous colour, and is known in Europe under the name of fustic wood, for dying a yellow colour. 8* 90 MUr.BKRRV. In Russia, tlie fruit of the JMorus tartarica is eaten fresh, conserved, or dried ; a wine and a spirit are also made from them, but the berries are said to be of an insipid taste. All the species of the Mf)rus are remarkable for putting out their leaves late, so that when they appear, gardeners may safely set out their green-house plants, taking it for granted that all danger from frost is over; from this circum- stance, plantations of Mulberry trees may be made in this country in the spring of the year with greater safety. The Mulberry produces its fruit chiefly on little shoots of the same year, which arise on last year's wood and on spurs from the two-year-old wood ; in both stages, mostly at the ends of the shoots and the branches. In pruning, thin out irregular crossing branches, but never shorten the young wood, on which fruit is produced. If any of the dwarfish kinds are cultivated as espaliers for their fruits, cut so as to bring in a partial succession of new wood every year, and a complete succession once in two years, taking the old bar- ren wood out, as may be necessary. As the blossom buds cannot be readily distinguished from others in the winter, the best period for pruning is when the blossoms first become visible in the spring. There is another genus of plants, known as the Paper Mulberry, which is very ornamental, called Broussoadia paj)i]viftrn; though a low tree, it has vigorous shoots, fur- nished with two large leaves ; the fruit, which is small, is surrounded with long purple hairs, changing to a black pur- ple colour when ripe, and full of juice. " In China and Japan, it is cultivated for the sake of the young shoots, from the bark of which the inhabitants of the Eastern countries make paper. The bark being sepai'ated from the wood, is Hteeped in water, the former making the whitest and best paper. The bark is next slowly boiled, tlien washed, and afterward put upon a wooden table, and beat into a pulp. This pulp being put in water, separates like grains of meal. An infusion of nee, and the root of raanhiot, are next added NECTARINE. 91 to it. From the licjuui so piepared, the sheets of paper are poured out one by one, and when pressed the operation is finished." " The juice of this tree is sufficiently tenacious to be used in China as a glue, in gilding either leather or paper. The finest and whitest cloth worn by the principal people at Otaheite, and in the Sandwich Islands, is made of the bark of this tree. The cloth of the Bread Fruit tree is inferior in whiteness and softness, and worn chiefly by the common people." NECTARINE. Pechera Fruit lisse, ou Brognons. Jlmygdalus neciarina. The varieties of this fruit resemble the Peach in every respect, except that the skin is peifectly smooth, of a waxen appearance, and the flesh generally more firm ; although of the same genus as the Peach, which is so plentiful in this country, the fruit of the Nectarine is quite a rarity, and sel- dom appears in our markets. There are seventy-two varie- ties cultivated in the Horticultural Garden of London under name. It is generally allowed that their failure here is occasioned by the attacks of insects. The most efficacious method that I have heard of for seeming any thing like a crop of Nec- tarines, is to fumigate the trees in the evening, when the air is calm and serene, at the season when the fruit is ready to set. Tobacco is the most effectual antidote for these insects ; but a friend of mine collected a quantity of salt hay that had been used for his Spinach the preceding winter ; wdth this he created a smoke, first on one side of his plantation, and afterward on the other, by which means he obtained a good supply of fruit. Our enterprising horticulturist, Mr, W. Shaw, has succeeded in gathering fine fruit, by pursuing the English plan, namely, in training his trees against a close 92 NECTARINE. fence ; and it has been discovered by Dthers, that the >rec- taiiue, like the Grape vine, will yield best in sheltered situ- ations. That eminent horticulturist, Mr. David Thomas, observes, that "A vast quantity of fruit is annually destroyed by the Curculio, which causes the Plum, Apricot, and Nec- tarine ptematurely to drop from the tree. To prevent this loss, let the tree, after the blossoms fall, be frequently shaken by a cord connected with a swinging door, or with a work- ing pump-handle, &c. ; or let the bugs be jarred from the tree and killed. Or keep geese enough in the fruit garden to devour all the damaged fruit as it falls. We know that this last method is infallible." As some may object to shaking or jarring fruit trees, for fear of disturbing the fruit, such are here reminded, that if the blossoms set more fruit than can be supported, it will not come to full peiiection, and the trees may be injured in their future l»eariag; for these reasons, when fruit sets too thick, it should be thinned in an early stage of its growth. The Nectarine, as also the Peach tree, is subject to injury by an insect different from the Cui'culio species, which feeds on the sap beneath the bark, principally near the surface of the earth ; but if not checked, will commit ravages on the trunk and root, so as eventually to destioy the tree. The egg is supposed to be first deposited in the upper part of the tree ; and in the months of June and July, it becomes a very small maggot, which drops to the ground, and approaches the tree near the surface. If the ground be kept clear around the roots, as it ought always to be, the worm can readily be detected by a small speck of gum, which appears on the tree after it has made its entrance, which gumminess will inciease in quantity as it progresses ; but if the trees are thoroughly examined about once a week or ten days, and the gum, wheiever found, removed by means of a small knife or pointed wire, the worm may be at once defeated from mak- ing any havoc on the trees. An oichard of several acres may be kept free i'vom worms by going over it a few times. NECTARINE. 93 After a shower of i aii. is a good time, as the gum can then be more easily discovered ; and when it is removed, the wound will soon heal up, and the danger is over, provided the ground be kept cultivated around the trees, and the collar, or that part from which emanate the main roots, be near the surface. This is an important precaution, and should be attended to at the time of transplanting all descriptions of trees and smaller plants; because dei-p planting- prevents the essential circulation of the juices of plants in their regular and natural courses, and, consequently, causes disease and premature death ; and it must be admitted, that from the circumstance of this fruit being generally raised on standard trees, and in a light soil, our cultivators are apt to plant too deep; and thus act contrary to sound judgment and pliilosophy, with a view to save the trouble and expense of staking or otherwise supporting their newly-planted trees, which precaution is absolutely necessary to their preservation, even in less tem- pestuous climates, and in stiff as well as in light soil. Saltpetre dissolved in the proportion of one pound to five gallons of water, and applied round the stems and roots of trees, as recommended for plants in general, is, in my opin- ion, one of the best remedies for the destruction of various kinds of insects ; it is, moreover, allowed by modem and learned physiologists to contain the most essential nutriment to all descriptions of trees or smaller plants, when judiciously used. Other remedies are recommended to be applied for the destruction of these insects around fruit trees, besides those previously mentioned ; as, dissolved potash, coal tar, sul phur and lime-mortar mixed, vinegar, soapsuds, &c. Culture, upon correct principles, will, however, in general operate not only as a radical cure, but as a preventive to all defects in trees and plants ; which, to be healthy and productive, should be so managed that the sap and nutrimental juices can circulate through every pore which nature has designed for their perpetuity. (Soe article on the choice of Ffuit Trees in the Nursery ; also, article Peach.) 94 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OP NECTARINES. The Nectarine is generally budded on stocks of the same^ species, Of on the Peach or Plum, two or three years old. Knight recommends growing Almond stocks for the finer kinds of Nectarines and Apricots, as likely to prevent the mildew, and as being allied to the Peach. Dubreuil recom- mends a Plum stock for clayey soils, and the Almond for such as are light, chalky, or sandy. The same ojjinion is held by the Montreal gardeners. The Flemish nurserymen graft both the Peach and Nectarine on the Myrabella Plum, a very small cherry-shaped fruit. The budding may be performed in July or August, in the side of the stock, which will, if properly managed, shoot the following spring, and attain the length of three or four feet the first year. After the budded trees have ripened their first year's shoots, they may either be planted where they are to remain, or retained in the nursery for two, three, or four years, till in a bearing state. Whether the plants be removed into the orchard at a year old, or remain in the nursery, the first shoots from the bud must be headed down in a judicious manner, in order to promote the most desirable form. In annual pruning, thin out superfluous branches and dry wood, and shorten the bearing shoots. Nectarines may be trained to a close fence, or wall, iu private gardens ; in which case, such plants should be chosen as are budded low. (See article Apricot.) SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. FREESTONE NECTARINES. Aromatic. A middle sized, rather globular fruit, skin pale straw colour with deep red or brown next the sun ; flesh pale straw, but red at the stone ; juice of a rich vinous llavour ; ripe early in August. Boston, Lfansls Seedling. A fine native variety, raised by Mr. Lewis, of Boston; fruit of medium size; heart-shaped; colour bright yellow, mottled with red ; flesh yellow, firm, pleasant and peculiar in flavour ; ripe in September. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NECTARINES. 95 Elruge, Claremont, Temple's, Vennash of some collections. One of the very best and most high flavoured Nectarines ; fruit medium size, of a green or pale yellow colour, with violet cheek ; pulp whitish, melting, very jjicy, rich and high llavoured; ripens early in August. Fairchild's Early. Fruit very early, but small; of globular shape, yellow in the shade, deep scarlet next the sun ; flesh yellow, not juicy, l)ut well flavoured ; ripe in July and August. Perkins's Seedling. A very large beautiful Nectarine, raised by S. G. Perkins, from the Boston, Leivis's Seedling; the form is globular; colour bright yellow, with dark crimson on one side ; flesh tender, juicy and high flavoured ; ripe in September. Pitmaston's Orange. A good sized globular, almost heart-shaped fruit, of a rich yellow colour, but dark crimson or purple next the sun ; flesh golden yellow, but red next the stone, from which it separates ; it is melting, juicy, saccharine and high flavoured ; ripe in August. Scarlet. A middle sized fruit, somewhat ovate, of a beautiful scarlet colour next the sun, and pale red on the shaded side ; the flesh separates from the stone, and is at maturity in August. Vermash, True Vermash. This fruit is rather of small size, and round- ish form, tapering towards the eye ; the skin is of a very deep red colour next the sun ; and of a greenish hue on the other side ; flesh white, rich melting and juicy ; at maturity in August. Violet, Violette Hative, Petite Violette Hative, Lord Selsey's Elruge, Large Scarlet. Fruit variable in size, generally medium; pale yellowish green, but darkish purple and red next the sun ; flesh melting, juicy, rich and excellent; ripe in July and August. White, or Flanders Nectarine, Neiv White, Emerson's New White, Neule's White. A middle sized, roundish, very pale fruit, slightly tinged with red next the sun ; flesh tender and juicy, with a fine vinous flavour ; ripe in August. CLINGSTONES, OR PAVIES. Brugnon Violet Musque, Brugnon Musque. Fruit large, of a deep red and yellow colour ; skin very smooth ; flesh yellow, but red at the stone ; saccharine, vinous, musky ; at maturity in August and September. Early Newikgton, Large Black Newingto7i, Lucomhe's Seedling. Fruit below the middle size, ovate ; skin pale green, and on the sunny side of a deep red colour; pulp super-excellent; considered by some as the best of all Nectarines ; ripe in August and September. Goi.den. Fruit medium size, of the finest orange colour, delicately and beautifully mottled with red next the sun, which gives to it a clear waxen appearance ; flesh firm, yellow, pale red at the stone, and has a poignant, rich flavour ; ripens in August and September. Red Roman, Roman Red. A very excellent Nectarine, of large size; the skin dark red next the sun, and of a yellowish hue on the other side ; flesh yellowish, but red next the stone ; it abounds with rich juice when fully ripe, in August and September, Scarlet Newington, Late Newington, Sion Hill. This variety is much esteemed , the fruit is large, of a beautiful red colour next the sun, and 96 ORANGE, LEMON, ETC. of a fine yellow or amber on the other side ; its quality is excellent, being rich and juicy ; early in September. Tawny Newinoton- Fruit large, somewhat ovate ; tawny-coloured, marbled with dull red or orange next the sun ; ut very tender, juicy, sweet and rich ; and possessing a high musky and perfumed flavour. The tree is a great bearer, and the fruit excellent ; in November and December. A silver medal was given to the originator of this fruit, as a prize, in England, 1S30, Harvard, V Epergne, Boston Epurgne- This variety is highly prized m the Boston markets ; fruit above medium size ; oblong, swollen at the crown ; skin russetty yellow, tinged with red ; flesh white, juicy and melting ; in September and October. Henry the Fovrth, Henri Quatre. Fruit of medium size ; oblong-, skin a dull yellow, mixed with brown and green ; flesh yellow, rather gritty, juicy and melting, with a peculiar rich flavour; ripe in September and October. Mr. Manning says the tree bears while young, and abun- dantly. Long Green of Autumk, Verte Longne, Mouihwnier. Mr. Manning says that this is one of the best of the old varieties ; its form is very long ; skin at maturity a light green ; flesh white, melting, ar.d rich flavoured. The tree is of vigorous growth, bears well, and the fruit is ripe in Septem- ber and October. Marie Louise, Marie Chretienne- Fruit oblong, tapering towards both ends; size varying from medium to large; skin nearly smooth, yel- lowish green, and cinnamon coloured russet; flesh white, melting, juicy, and rich. It ripens in October and November, and is an excellent fruit in its season. Moor Fowl Egg. Fruit rather smafl, globular, ovate, swollen in the middle i skin orange brown next the sun, with spots of russet ; flesh yel- 120 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. lowisli white, a little gritty, but tender and mellow, jaicc s.ircliarirje, '» litUe i)erluined. '1 his is a hardy Scotch variety ; ripe in Sepfeiiiber, and good in October Napoleon, MedaUle, Sauvageon LUirt. Ruide Rome, and Wnrteiiiburg of Prince. Fruit large, form of the Colmar; skin smooth; colour briRht green, but at maturity pale fireen ; flesh very melting, with an unusual abundance of rich asroeable juice. At perfection in October and November. Plll^cEss^; OF Orange. Pz-i/jass d'Orunge. Priiirei~s C iiiqitetlr. The fruit is roundish ; tlie skin tirif{ht reddish orange russet ; tlesh yellowish white, sugary and rich, in some seasons perlectly melting, but occasionally a little gritty. A beautiful Pear, and of good quality ; in Oclol)er. Secki.e, New-York Red Chtek, Red Chetk Seckle, Sycle. An excellent native fruit, in size rather small ; colour varying from yellowish to brown- ish russet, but bright red next the sun ; llesti meiting, spicy, and of a most extraordinary rich flavour. This fruit grows in clusters, in great abun- dance, and is at perfection in September and October. Swan's Kgo, Moor FuwL Egg if Bo^liin. Kruit small, of an oval, tur- binate figure ; colour yellowish green, and dull russetty brown ; Hesli tender and melting, with a rich, sachaiiiie, musky flavour. An excellent fruit; ripe in October. The tree is remarkably tall, upright, vigorous, and pro- ductive. Urbaniste, Beurre du Rni- The fruit is of mediurn size, pyramidally ovate ; skin pale green, inclining to yellow, with green streaks : flesh white, but reddish yellow next the core; it is quite melting, juicy, and very sweet, with a little perfume; it ripens from the middle of .September to November. Washington. A native fruit from New Jersey, of medium size and oval form ; the skin is light yellow, covered with small brown spots, with a tinge of red; the flesh melting, and of excellent flavour. Mr. Manning says the tree bears well, and is worthy of general cultivation ; fruit ripens in September. White Doyenne, Doyenne Blanc, Beurre Blanc. Bonne anfe, Sf. Mi- chael, Carlisle, Citron de Septetnbre, Kitv^erhirtie, Poire a cntrie queue. Poire de Linton, Poire de Seigneur, Poire Mnnaieur, VulrDciu. White Beurre. Virgalieu of some collections. Fruit pretty large ; roundish ob- long; skin pale citron yellow, with cinnamon russet, speckled; liesh white, juicy, very buttery, and delicious ; ripe in September and Ocloter. An old, and once celebrated variety, still admired by many, although excluded from some nurseries, or cultivated under new names. Wilkinson. A native I'ear from Cumberland, K. I. The tree bears young, and is very fruitful ; size above medium; form oblong; skin yel- low, with a brownish blush near the sun ; flesh white, juicy, and melting; at perfection in October and November. WINTER FRUIT. Beurre d'Aremberg, Beurre d'Arembcrf, Due d^ Aremherg. Poire iV Arembtrg, Beurre Dexckunips. Beurre des Orpltclins of Deschamps, Colmar Deschainps- The English and French writers speak of this Pear DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEARS. 121 as one of the best in culliviition. The tree is a great bearer, comes early into rnltivatioii. arul the fruit will keep till March. Fruit large, turliinate; skm of H delicate pale f;reeti, dott-d with russet, which becomes of a deeper yellow at maturity ; tlesli whitish, fine, very jucy, perfectly melting, and Tery exlraordinnrily rich, sweet hijih Havoured and excellent. HiUKRE OiEL, Diel'fi Btilterliirite. Dorothie RuyuLe, Beurre de Yelle, Benrre k'>yt/le, Puire de Melon. Beurre Inaimpura'ile of some. This ranks amont'sc the best of Pears. The tree is of vigorous growth ; fruit, when in perfection, four inches long, and three inches broad; the skin at maturity is Urig/it orange, with reddish russet ; flesh clear white, melting, juicy, and of a delicious aromatic flavour; from November to January. Hkurre H.ance. Beurre Epine. Hardeiiponf de Prinfemps. 'I'his is said to be a Hrtft-rate I'ear. The tree is vigorous, and a good bearer; fruit mid- dle ge Red Antwerp, Hmrlnnd's Red Anfu-rrp, Bur/ey. This species is rather tender, on which account the branches must be bent down in autumn, and covered with soil. See Calendar. The fruit is large and beautiful, of dehcious flavour, and quite fragrant; in June and .luly. Antwerp White. Yelluw Antwerp. This is also tender or half hardj', but very prolific ; the fruit is large, of a pale yellow colour, and much esteemed It ripens in June and July. Barnet, CoriiwaUis Prolific, Lard Exniotith, Large Red. This is con- sidered a first-rate fruit, and yields abundantly; in June and July. Bee Hive. A new variety, introduced by Messrs. Winter & Co., of the Linnaean Botanic Garden. Flushing. The fruit is large, of round shape and red colour ; ripe in July. Cornish, Large Cornish. A hardy and highly productive variety, yielding an abundance of Red Berries in June and July. DouBi E Hearing Red. Twice Bearing. This species is very prolific, producing its first crop in July, and another in October. Fi.ESH Coloured, Frambidsier couleiir de chair. A new variety, im- ported by W. R. Prince & Co.. from France. It is described as an highly flavoured and much esteemed fruit. Franco.ma. Red. Francnnia. This variety is in great repute for its productiveness and the fineness of its fruit, which ripens gradually in July. Monthly or Four Seasons. Perpetual Bearing. This species, if planted in a shady situation, will produce successional crops throughout the summer. Red Tai.l Cane. There are several species of the Cane Raspberry, some of which are worthless. The Tall Red Cane produces fine fruit in July and .August, anrl very frequently in autumn. Victoria. i iiis Queen of Raspberries has been imported by W. R. Prince, and plants are ofTeied for sale at his nursery at Flushiuif, for twen- vy-five cents eacii. 136 STRAWBERRY. STRAWBERRY. Fraisier. Fragaria. This is a genus of fruit-bearing herbaceous plants, of which there are few in the vegetable kingdom that can equal the Strawberry in wholesomeness and excellence. The fruit is supposed to receive its name from the ancient practice of laying straw between the rows, which keeps the ground moist and the fruit clean. They are natives of tem- perate, or cold climates, as of Europe and America. The fruit, though termed a berry, is, in correct botanical lan- guage, a fleshy receptacle, studded with seeds. It is univer- sally grateful alone, or with sugar, cream, or wine, and has the property, so valuable for acid stomachs, of not under- going the acetous fermentation. Physicians concur in placing Strawberries in their small catalogue of pleasant remedies ; as bavins: properties which render them in most conditions of the animal frame, positively salutary ; they dissolve the tartareous incrustations of the teeth, and pro- mote perspiration. Persons afflicted with the gout have found relief from using them very largely ; so have patients in case of the stone; and Hoffman states, that he has known consumptive people cured by ibem. The bark of the root is astringent. In cultivating the Strawberry, an open situation and rich loamy soil, rather strong, is required for most varieties; and from their large mass of foliage and flowers, they must, till the fruit is set, have co])i(»us su])plies of water. The row culture is best calculated to produce fruit; and fiequent renewal insures vigorous plants, as well as large fiuit. Some plant them in single rows, from twelve to eighteen inches apart, according to the sorts ; others form a bed with four rows. If several beds be intended, a space of two or three feet may be left between each bed as a path ; and in the second or third season, the pallis may be manured and dug, STRAWBERRY, 137 to admit of the runners taking root; by this means, a renewal may be made so often, and the old stools being taken away, leaves spaces between the beds as before. Or, new plantations may be made every season; because, after the roots are fairly established, they multiply spontaneously, as well by suckers fiom the parent stem, as by numerous runners; all of which, rooting and forming a plant at every joint, require only removal to a spot where there is room for them to flourish. If taken (jff", and planted in rows in August and September, they will produce fine fruit the fol- lowing season, and will bear in full perfection the second summer; some, however, prefer spring planting, which answers very well, if done in damp weather. A plantation of the Al[)ine yields fruit the same year that it is made. The Wood and the Alpine are often cultivated from seed, which generally produces fine fruit. The other species are uniformly propagated by oifsets, except the inten- tion be to try for new varieties. The Alpine and Wood species may be planted in situations ratlier cool and shady, in order that they may produce their fruit late in the season, which is desirable. The Strawberry, with a little trouble of choosing a succession of sorts, may be forced so as to be had at the dessert every month in the year ; though, during the winter months, they have not much flavour. Some gardeners lay straw an inch or two thick over their beds in March, and set fire to it, in order to promote a Btocky growth of plants and early fruit; others recommend mowing oil" the tops of such as are not required to fruit early, while they are in blossom, with a view to obtain a crop of Strawberries late in the season. The London Horticultural Catalogue contains the names of about one hundred and fifty varieties of all the species, which are classed according to their nature, colour, &c. Class 1. Scarlet Strawberries; 2. Black Strawberries; 3. Pine Strawberries ; 4. Chili Strawberries ; 5. Hautbois Strawberries; Green Strawberries; 7. Alpine and Wood 138 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. Sti;iwl)ernes. To select all the most esteemed from this, or atiy otlier extensive catalogue, is a difficult task ; the fol- lowing description of species and varieties may serve to direct the choice : — SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. The Wood Strawberry, Frap;aria vesea, with oval serrated leaves ; the fruit red white, and green, which is round and small. A native of Britain. Some of the varieties are in great repute, as they are very productive, and continue Ions in hearinsr. The Scarlet. Fragaria Virgininna, with leaves like the precedins; the fruit roundish and scarlet-coloured. A native of Virginia. Varieties — Methven Scarlet, Knight's Scarlet, Austrian Scarlet, Early Scarlet, Wilmot's late, Common late. Wilmol's Early Scarlet, &c. The P.osf.berrv. Fragaria, Virg var. An Aberdeen seedling, intro- duced in 1810. The plants have few roundish leaves, larger fruit than the scarlet, and are very -prolific ; continues bearing till Aueust. Thr Black var. Doivnfon, Dark Scarlet Strawberry, originated by Mr. Knight. The fruit is large, irregular, and cockscomb-like ; plant hardy and prolific. The Carolina, Fragaria Caroline)! sis,- colour dark red ; a native of America. There are several choice varieties of this fruit, as — ICIton's Seed- ling, Keen's Seedling, Mulberry. Wilmot's Black Imperial, Blood I'ine, North's Seedling, Knevet's Seedling. &c. The Musky, or Hautbois. Fragaria elafio, with oval, rough, javelin- edged leaves. A native of Britain. Varieties — Black Hautbois. White Hautbois. Globe Hauthois, Conical Hautbois, Double or Twice Bearing, producing delicious fruit in spriuir and autumn. The Chi II. Fragaria Chilie?hsis, w\th large, oval, thick, hairy loaves, and large flowers ; th" fruit large and very firm ; a native of South Ameri- ca. Wilmot's Suberb. or Large Cockscomb Scarlet, Knight's Seedling, and Greenwell's New Giant, are highly esteemed varieties. Keen's Imperial, or New Chim, Fragaria Chili var., raised by Mr. Keen, of Isleworth, a most excellent bearer, ripening early. The fnn't is very large ; the flesh firm and solid, without any separate core : colour scarlet. ^ The Ai.riNE, or Prolific Frr/^aria ro//i?7ff, commonly la^^tsfrom Juno till November, and in mild seasons till near Christmas ; the varieties of this fruit are red and white. Natives of the Alps of Kuropc. The Onk-Leaved, Fragaria mmwpfiylla, the pulp of the fruit, pink- coloured. A native of South America. The following varieties have been lately propagated from some of the above species : — DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF STRAWBERRIES. l.'?9 Bishop's Orange, Binhop's Globe, Bwhitp's New. Fruit large, of round- ish or conn ical f.>rin ; orange scarlet colour, and very delic.ous flavour; ripe early in July. GAR^STONE ScAKi.ET. A fine, highly esteemed scarlet variety, of large size, roundish form and peculiarly rich flavour, which ripens early in June. Elton, Elton Pine Strawberry. Fruit very large ; form heart shaped, or obtusely conical ; colour bright dark scarlet ; flesh firai, rosy red ; flavour very rich, spicy, aromatic and agreeable. A beautiful drawing of this fruit is given in " Holfy's Orchardist's Companion," from whence the above descr.piion was taken. (iRovE End ."^carlet. Atkinson's Scarlet- A seedling raised by Wm. Atkinson, at Grove Knd. Marylebone, in 1820; fruit large, oblate, of a bright Vermillion colour, and rich flavour ; ripe by the middle of June. HovEv's .'^EKDLiNG. This favourite variety was raised by Messrs Hovey & Co., of Boston, in 1834. Fruit very large ; form round, or slightly ovate, conical ; colour iieep shining red, paler in the shade; flesn scarlet, and firm, abounding in an agreeable acid, and high flavoured juice, not sur- passed by any other variety; ripe early in July. Hudson's Bay. Americun Sciflet. Velvit Scarlet, Large Hudson. Fruit large, of ovale form; represented by Mr. Downing as the best for market ; early in .luly. Monthly Red Alpine. Fruit of medium size, and conical form; con- tinues bearing fruit moderately from June till winter. Myatt's British Queen. The fruit of this celebrated variety is said to be of tnonstroiis size ; in form roundish, and in quality firsi-rate; about the middle of July. Myatt's Pine. A medium sized fruit of ovate form, and very rich fla- voured ; ripening in July. Prince .Xibf.rt. A new variety lately raised in London, represented as a large fruit of ovate form, very splendid in appearance, and delicious in flavour ; ripe in July. Prince's New Pine. An excellent seedling variety of large size and ovate firm. Raised by Wm. R. Prince, of Flushing; ripe early in July. Ro-icBERRV Montevideo. Montevideo Early Scarlet. An improved American seedling from the common Roseberry : of large size, conical form, and fine flavour; ripe early in July. Swainstone's Sekdling. This variety is described as large, ovate, and of the very first quality, ripening one crop early in June, and a second crop in autumn. Victoria. Higgins's Seedling. The fruit of this variety is greatly esteemed : it is extra large, of roundish form, and exquisite flavour ; early in July. Warren's Seedling, Warren's Methven. This is represented as a peculiar fruit, being of large size, and in form nearly flat ; it is moreover of a rich pine-apple flavour, and yields abundantly throughout the month of July. White Bush Alpine, New White Alpine. A medium sized berry, of ovate form and agreeable flavour : the plant has no runners, and ripens its fruit in June and July. 140 WALNUT. All the species and varieties of this fruit are highly esti- mat6>(l in Britain, where they are cultivated iti Winter Apples and Cranberries bring up the reur; All are good of their kind, and we freely declare. Not one of the Fruits we would willingly spare. Apple, Pear, Plum, Cherry, Chestnut, Mulbeny, Quince, Walnut, and other hardy fruit trees may now bo planted ; use caution not to injure them in taking up or removing them; let holes be dug somewhat larger than is sufficient to admit the roots in their natural position, and of sufficient depth to allow of some good rich compost or pulverized earth to be thrown in before the trees are planted. See pages 9, 34, 103 and 125, and read the article headed * Observations on the Choice of Fruit Trees in the Nursery,' page 32. Finish gathering late varieties of Apples, Pears, Grapes, &c.; do it in dry weather, and stow them away out of the reach of frost, as recommended last month. Cranberry, Currant, Filbert, Gooseberry, and Raspberry shrubs may be planted this month ; at the same time cut out all crowded branches, superfluous suckers, worn-out bearers, and decayed wood, 58, 60, 6o, 70 and 134. Strawberry bods made in August and September, as well as those of greater age, may be covered up with leaves, light manure, salt hay, or other litter. Protect the beds where fruit seeds and cuttings were planted last month, by a covering of light manure, compost, or leaves of trees. Winter pruning may be performed this month on some species of hardy trees, shrubs, vines, &c., and continued at all opportunities throughout the next month, 23. Fig Trees, Tender Grape Vines, as well as the Antwerp and other half-hardy Raspberry Shrubs, must be protected from the effects of frost, which is done by bending them down to the ground and covering them with earth five or six inches, which should be sloped so as to carry off the rain. Some of the trained Vines and Fig Trees may be protected with wickers of straw or mailing, 63, 80 and 135. 164 CALENDAR AND INDEX. DECEMBER. Let sober Reflection, the Tiller employ, The souDd seeds of Virtue will sprins; to his joy ; To the Kuler of season's, let gjiititudi-'s voice, In His love and His wisdom for ever rejoice. If any of the woik recommended to be done in the last month was not accomplished, let it be done with all possible despatch tliis month, as we know not what a day may bring forth. Protect the stems of newly-planted trees. Cover with litter the j-oots of Grape Vines and Figs agaiiist walls, and cover the branches with mats, &zc. In temperate climates prune Apple, Pear, Quince, and other hardy fruit trees; cut out rotten and decaying branches, 23 and 63. To destroy insects on the fruit trees, and prevent them from creeping up and breeding on them, do as follows : — Take a strong knife with a sharp point, and a sharp hook- like iron made for the purpose; with these scrape clean off all the moss and outside rough bark, and with the knife j)ick out or cut away the cankered parts of the bark and wood, in such a slanting manner that water cannot lf)dge in the sides of the stem of the trees. Having cleared the trees in this way, make up a mixture of lime, soot, and sulphur; put these ingredients into a pot or tub, pour boiling water upon them, and with a stick stir and mix them well together. When this strong mixture becomes cold, and about the thickness of white-wash, take a brush, dip it in the mixture, and apply it to the stems and large branches of the trees, dabbing it well into the hollow parts of the b;nk. The pruning of hai'dy fruit trees and hardy shrubs may be performed at all favourable opportunities through the winter, 21 to 24. For farther information on the winter management oi Fruit Trees, the reader is referred to the articles cotumeuc ing pages 7, 13, 21, 30 and 32. 165 TO THE PEOPLE OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. fELLOW-CITIZENS : An application having been made to your Representatives in Congress to *ote a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States, OR ABOL'T A MILLION DOLLARS OF VouR RESOURCES, lo the promotion of an improved system of " Terru-culture,'" as described in Senate, Document No. 23, of the third session of the 26lh Congress, 1 hereby direct youT attention to a few extracts taken from the applicant's preamble ; copies of which were forwarded to each member of the 26th Congress, in session, November 30, 1839, by Russell Curnsiock- Prom the Pouglikeepsie Eaglei of January 25, 1840, PRESERVATION OF FRUIT TREKS, PLANTS, &C. GREAT DISCOVERY. ■* To the Hon. Perry Smith, Chairman of the United States Senate Com'- tnittee on Agriculture of the 25/A Congress. " With the consent and by the advice on the 23d inst., of the chairman of the United States Senate Committee on Agriculture of the 25th Congress, I forward to each member of the 26th Congress the accompanying document dated the 14th inst; the object is to shou} you some (f the proof that a discovery of vital importance to civilized man has been made, which in several letters from different members of the present and last Congress is valued at hundreds of mil- lions OF days' labour, and worth more than all the discove- KiEs OF the present age combined — THE application of steam NOT EXCEPTED. "For what purpose would all the owners of the public lands more freely or gratefully consent to give one hundreth part of those lands, or the pro- ceeds thereof 1 Would they not be grateful lo those members of Congress, who assist in giving the owners of the public domain the desired informa- tion, and reverence them as benefactors of human kind. •'For the honour of the Republic, for the honour of the age, and for the interest and comfort of the living, as well as the unburn, let not that disco- very which may cause two seeils to ripen where one now does, which pre- vents the premature death of all cultivated trees, which has been searched for m vain during the history of all civilized society, die with the discoverer for want of the action of the United States Congress." Our patriotic discoverer "claims the following five discoveries as Ms, besides other discoveries which are stated in his memorial to the 25tli Coiv 16G Iflt " That various dispasps, universally supposed to be destructive to plants are only symptoms that a particular error in cultivation has been committed ; and thai many other injurious elTects have been produced by the same ejror, which are attributed to other causes. 2d. " That the error is universally committed, to a greater or leas extent, throughout the .'States, and that he has seen an excess of it where- erer lie has been, which is in the Atlantic States, from Georgia to Massa- chusetts, inclusive. 3d. " That the Peach and Nkctarine are more easily injured by the error than most other Fruit trees, and the canse of their being more easily injured by it ; and that this error causes them to be barren, or short-lived. 4th. " That the application of two known laws in nature demonstrate the reality of his di.scovery and its application to the whole vegetable king- dom ; and that by them, his discovery, (if publicly known,) must be per- petuated, and his practice more easily introduced : and that by these two laws the occasional supcess of common remedies is explained. oth. " That the said error is the obstacle which has discouraged experi- menters, and lamentably retarded improvements in the science and practice of a!,Ticullure ; and that he has discovered facts and made himself acquainted With knowledge suificient to reduce them to practice." We are farther informed, "that it is neither climate, nor soil, nor insects, nor worms, that are the cause of many of the disastrous elTects that have been attributed to them, but that those effects are produced by error in cul- tivation, which diseases the .smallest plant or largest tree." Our modest and patriufic fdluw-cUizen admits, in the course of his preamble, "that the practical part of his discovery is so extremely simple and economical, that it costs no more to prevent the diseases than it does to produce thein ; and that it is so different from the established theories and liabits of the people, that tinless a large amount be appro- PRiATKD, many will be unwilling to try it, and therefore the public good seems to require that a large amount should be appropriated." He more- over asserts, that "there are two known laws in nature, by which the reality of his discovery, and its application to the 7vhole vegetable kingdom, are demonstrable in less than thirty words." That this invaluable secret, whatever it may be, is not strictly speaking anew discovery, is demonstrable by numerous living witnesses which have inhabited the fields of the old world for over a thousand years ; and our discoverer freely admits, and in very emphatic language, that there are thousands of trees in our own country on which, what he terms ''the com- mon error " has never been committed ; and also, that several of the fifteen gentlemen to whom he communicated his secret, " confidently for ever ," have some such trees on their own domains. Hear him — "The Senator from Missouri, (Mr. Linn,) said, that the most flourishing and healthy Peach tree in his jiossession had never had what I call the common error in cultivation committed \i\wn it." "The Senator from Pennsylvania, (Mr. McKean,) said, that he had long supposed that what I call the common error, was an error, but that he had no idea of such extensive evils arising from it.'' "The Senator from Maryland, (Mr, Spence.) said, that in his district it was a universal custom to commit wnat T call the common error in cultiva- tion, on the fruit trees, and that it wu.s common to have no Plums perfect 167 and free from worms, excepting on a few of his, on which the error had not been committed for twenty years, if ever ; and those few (four) continued to bear abundantly annually ; that he had no recollection of ever seeing an imperfect wormy Plum on either of these four trees, but that he had never supposed that to iiave been the cause of their perfection." The Senator from South Carolina, (Mr. Calhoun,) to whom I am indebted for pointing out one symptom of the error, and for a valuable suggestion in the culture of plants, said, " while examining the defective trees around the Capitol, that the principle when exhibited was very plain and simple, that it was philosophical, and in his opmion it could not be neglected without injury to the health and growth of trees and plants, and deserving of pub- lic patronage." "The Vice President of the United States, (Mr. Johnson,) said, that my discovery was perfectly consistent with the laws of nature ; and (when observing a few trees near the Capitol, which had been injured by the error, and were recovering.) farther remarked, that my theory was essentially cor- rect and obvious to the most superficial observer." "The member from New-York, (Mr. Jackson,) said, that he had reared an orchard on which he had carefully avoided an excess of what I call the common error, and that it had been admired as the most flourishing and fruitful orchard in the neighbourhood ; and that he had recently seen a field of Indian corn, which yielded more than one hundred bushels of shelled grain to the acre, in which an excess of the error had been avoided, while the success was attributed to quite a different cause." From the preceding extracts, it is evident that this inestimable treasure lays near the surface ; and from the disclosure having been communicated to rational and intelligent minds, it is preposterous to expect that those gentleman can, in the pursuit of their rural avocations, act directly con- trary to knowledge and sound judgment ; they must, therefore necessarily and unavoidably communicate the secret by their example, which will eventually disseminate in proportion as mankind take an interest in the merits of the alleged discovery. But lest the full benefits of this invaluable remedy should be withheld from the community for want of the action of the United States Congress, I have submitted an exposition of my vieivs of the particular points adverted to in the preamble, which may be found under the heads, Necta- rine, Peach, and Plum, pages 91,93 and 124 of the third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant ; and I would furthermore remind my readers that the directions heretofore given in this and previous editions of the work are in strict accordance with the same doctrine ; and tnat although the error alluded to is admitted to have been very generally committed, I am not aware that any writer has ever taught or encouraged the error, either direct or indirect ; I confess, however, that I have been induced to expatiate on this malpractice in horticulture from the subject having elicited the grave consideration of enlightened legislators of these United States. And lest these my voluntary disclosures should prove to have no bearing on the alleged discovery, I would prepare the public mind for its reception by an exhortation to temperance and moderation, as the only safe course that can be considered applicable to the cultivation of all the varied species of plants, which comprise " the whole vegetable kingdom." ] n 168 articles page 26 of the first part, and pages 16, 2S and 97 of the second part, I liave shown that tlie various species of plants which occupy our greenhouses, gardens, and fields, requb-e each their peculiar aliment — they liaving been collected from all the diversified regions, climates, and soils through earth's remotest bounds ; they consequently comprise natives of mountains and rocks, as well as of plains, valleys, and water courses. The most essential aliment for natives of warm climates and dry soils being HEAT, artificial means are used in cool seasons, and unpropitious climates to produce it. Natives of temperate climates require salubrious air, hence they are cultivated to the greatest perfection in our Northern States in spring and autumn ; and in our Southern States in the winter; s-ee page 147 of the first part; and natives of humid climates, as also amphibious plants in general, require a more than ordinary share of moisture, and grow best in wet soil; but these three elements collectively constitute the food of plants in general, and should be judiciously imparted to the various species, in due proportions, according to circumstances. See pages 49, 61 and 67 of the first part, for a more precise view of this subject. I have also shown that the roots of various species of plants require each their peculiar aliment, which is not to be found in all descriptions of land; this is demonstrated by roots of trees being frequently discovered spreading beyond their ordinary bounds in quest of salutary food. Although it has been admitted that excessive deep planting of trees and plants is injurious, and in many cases fatal to their very existence, it does not follow that all annuals and biennials are injured by the same means ; on the contrary, the earthing up of particular species of plants in a late stage of growth is calculated to promote early maturity, which constitutes the most essential art in gardening for the market ; because the earliest crops are always the most profitable. It is moreover a necessary practice in climates where the seasons for gardening are short — as without such practice, many Idnds of vegetables could not possibly be matured in due season for gathering before winter. 1 wi)uld here take the opportunity of proving this last position, by reminding the reader that the effects of deep planting, the Peach tree for instance, is discoverable soon after the error is committed, by its fruit ripen- ing prematurely, and this is often the case for a year or two prior to its final decease, and should operate as a salutary lesson against planting perennial plants and trees too deep. In conclusion of this article, which is intended as an appendage to my works on gardening, I would urge gardeners and cultivators to consult the operations of nature in all their rural pursuits ; and with a view to aid them, I subjoin the following rules, which are farther illustrated under the different heads : 1. In transplantiug fruit trees, let the collar, or that part from which emanate the main roots, be near the surface. A medium sized tree may be planicil an inch deeper than it was in the nursery bed ; and the largest should not exceed two or three inches. See pages 93, 101 and 125 of the third part of the present edition of the Young Gardener's Assistant. 2. In the cultivation of such plants as arc transplanted, or grown in hills or clusters, as Indian Corn, &c., keep the earth loose but level around them in their early stages of growth, by frequent hoeing, ploughing, or culti- , ' 169 \r.tjng ; and to promote early maturity, throw a moderate portion of earth about the roots and stems at the last or final dressing. 3. In tile sowing of seed, remember that in unity there is strength, and that from the gerrninative parts of a seed being weak and diminutive, it cannot be expected to perforate through the soil, solitary and alone. To insure a fair chance plant your seed moderately thick, and thin out the surplus plants while young. In planting seed in drills, which is the most eligible plan, the size of the seed and strength of its germ should be consi- dered ; large seed, producing vigorous roots, require deeper planting than diminutive seed, producing delicate roots and slender stalks. 4. In the choice of compost for exotic or greenhouse plants, imitate the native soil of each peculiar species as nearly as possible, by a judicious mixture of maiden earth, loam, sand, leaf, swamp, and rock mould, decom- po-^ed manures, and such other composts as aie recommended under the different heads. Remember, that although strong manure is essential to the growth of some plants, it is poisonous to others. Pursue, then, a medium course. From your soil not being too stiff or too light, too rich or too poor, too cool or too warm, too close or too porous, if not positively salutary and congenial to all, it must render the situation of each endura- ble. I again repeat, that temperance in the use of aliment, is as essential to the welfare of the vegetable family as it is to the health, happiness, and longevity of mankind. T. BRIDGEMAN. New-York, March 4, 1840. 85" Since this address has been in press, I have seen another article in the Poughkeepsie Eagle, dated February 29, 1840, wherein our modest and patrioiic discoverer gratuitously pronounces his knowledge as superior to that of " all Botanical and Agricultural known writers J" As I have anticipated the merits of this second valuable discovery in my books, I have nothing more to say than to remind the reader that this uncalled for attack on the brethren of my fraternity, fully justifies not merely the publication, but the most general circulation of these my voluntary disclosures. RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. This summary view of estimates is annexed, in order to aid the Seeds- man and Gardener in making out a bill of seed for the purpose of planting any given quantity of ground, under the regulations suggested in the Vegetable Department of the Young Gardener's Assistant, to which the reader is referred for a more concise view of the subject. Page. Artichoke ; an ounce of seed will produce 600 plants, - - 31 Asparagus; one ounce wUl be sufficient for 1000 plants - - 35 Beans, English Dwarf; one quart of seed will be required for every sixty feet of row, ........40 Beans. Kidney Dwarf ; one quart of seed will plant from 350 to 400 hills, or from 230 to 260 feet of row, 42 170 RETROSPECTIVE VIEW. Page, beans Pole, or Running ; one quart of Lima, or large running Beana will plant about 300 hills, or 250 feet of row, - - - - 43 Beet ; one ounce may be allotted for every perch, or pole, - - 45 Borecole, or Kale , an ounce will produce 4000 plants, - - 46 Broccoli; one ounce is sufficient for 4000 plants, - - - - 50 Cauliflower ; an ounce of this seed will produce 4000 plants, - 53 Cabbage ; one ounce will produce 4000 plants, ... - 55 Cardoon Artichoke ; an ounce will produce GOO plants, - - 53 Carrot ; half an ounce may be allotted for every pole, - - - 59 Celery ; an ounce of seed will produce 10,000 plants, - - - 60 Corn Salad, or Fetticus ; one ounce of seed will sow about two poles of ground, .-63 Cucumber ; one ounce of seed is sufficient for 200 hills, - - 65 Egg Plant ; an ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 67 Endive, or Succory ; an ounce will yield 5000 plants, - - - 6S Leek; oi>e ounce of seed may be allotted for 3000 plants, - - 71 Lettuce; an ounce will produce, say 10,000 plants, - - - 73 Melon ; one ounce of seed will produce from 120 to 150 hills, - 74 Melon, Water ; an ounce will plant from 40 to 50 hills, - - 75 Onion ; one ounce of seed may be allotted for every pole, - - 7S Parsley ; two ounces may be allowed for three perches, - - 80 Parsnip; two ounces may be allotted for three perches, - - 81 Pepper ; one ounce of seed will produce 3000 plants, - - - 82 Peas ; one quart will plant from 150 to 200 feet of row, - - 84 Potatoes ; from twelve to sixteen bushels may be allotted for an acre, 85 Potatoes, Sweet ; half a peck of seed, properly managed, will produce 15 bushels, 86 Pumpkin ; one quart of field Pumpkin will plant from 600 to 600 hills, and one ounce of the finest kinds will plant from 50 to 80 hills, 87 Radish ; four ounces will do for every three perches, if sown broad- cast, and about hall' the quantity if sown in drills, - - - 89 Salsify; two ounces of this seed will plant three perches, - - 93 Shallots ; four bushels of bulbs will plant forty poles, - - - 9S Spinach ; if cultivated in drills, four ounces will plant five perches of land. If broadcast, it will require double the quantity, - - 99 Squash ; an ounce of seed will plant from 50 to 100 hills, according to sorts and size, - - - - - - - - 100 Tomato ; one ounce of seed will produce 4000 plants, - - 101 Turnip ; one pound of seed is sufficient for an acre of land, - 105 QUANTITY OF GRASS SEED SUITABLE TO THE ACRE. ^ Clover, sown alone, - - 12 pounds. Timothy, 1 peck. Herds Grass, ----- l bushel. Orchard Grass, - - - 2 bushels. Rye Grass, ------ 2 bushels. Lucerne, -.---. S pounds. For a pasture for grazing, the following mixtures of seed would be found excellent, viz : 6 pounds of clover seed, 1 peek of herds grass, and half a bushel of Orchard grass seed — or 6 pounds clover, half a bushel of rye fcrass, and half a butliel of tall meadow oat seed. 171 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. "The first edition of "The Young Gardener's Assistant" has been favourably noticed in France: — "One of the leadini; articles of the Annales de C Institute Royal Hortkolc de Fromo7it, is a long notice of " The Young Gardener's Assistant," by Mr. Thomas Bridgeman, of this city. The editor, Le Chevalier Soulange Bodin, speaks of the little work in very commendable terms." — New York Farmer. Extract of a review of this work in the Magazine of Horticulture, Botany, &c., published by Hovey & Co., Boston : " The work is written in plain language, easily to be understood by the young beginner in gardening, who will find it a great help ; and its value, even to the experienced person, is by no means of an ordinary character. It is adapted to our climate, and unlike compilations from English works, the novice is not led into disappointment by following the rules there laid down, as he generally is, when following the advice of the latter. We repeat, that as far as the book pretends, it is worth all otheks of A SIJIILAR character THAT HAVE EVER BEEN PUBLISHED IN THIS COUN- TRY ; and its cheapness should place it in tlie hands of all new beginners." " No work ever published has been so studiously written to give plain useful information. By being arranged in the form of a catalogue, you can turn in a moment to any name you desire, where the time of sowing, depth, soil, after treatment, &c. &c., is clearly defined. The Calendarial Index, giving a summary of work for every month, is itself worth the whole price of the book, and must have cost the author much research and labor- ious thought. Mr. Bridgeman is not a theorist, but is in the daily practice of what he writes, and of course well qualified to direct all beginners in tlic profitable and delightful employment of cultivating a garden, ' a profession and an employment for which no man is too high or too low.' " — Genesset Farmer. " It will, we are persuaded, be found, what the writer intends it shall bs, ' generally useful to such as may wish to superintend, or take the manage- ment of their own gardens.' Mr. Bridgeman is a gardener himself, in the Bowery road, and his directions are therefore applicable to our climate — an advantage of no little moment." — American. "Among the plants for the cultivation of which ' The Young Gardener's Assistant ' contains directions, are a number of culinary vegetables not generally introduced in the United States. The introduction and success- ful cultivation of useful foreign vegetables add to the resources of our country. We recently saw, for instance, in Mr. Bridgeman's garden, seve- ral varieties of Broad Beans, Vicia faba, in a most vigorous and thrifty growth. They occupied a clayey spot of ground that was not suitable so early in the season for any other vegetable. They put forth a beautiful blossom, and would serve as an ornament for the flower garden." — New York Fanner. 172 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. "Bridgkjian's Gardener's Assistant. — The fourth edition of tins useful little manual is published, and is rendered of increased value by tht? addition of several matters not contained in either of tlie former editions. Among these is a short and convenient calendar to assist the gardener's memory." — Evening Post. " No work on the subject of Kitciicn Gardening ever published in this country has met with so very general approbation and extensive sale. Mr. Bridgeman is well known as one of our best gardeners, and writes from hia own experience." — Daily Express. "That work which teaches us how to create and to improve this most innocent and useful source of pleasure, is surely worthy of applause and patronage ; and such we consider 'The Young Gardener's Assistant.' " — Morning Herald. " The work is calculated to be of immense service to those engaged in Agriculture, ' far from the busy haunts of men,' and to the disciples of Flora, in the city. Mr. Bridgeman is a practical gardener and seedsman, and has lived many years on both sides of the Atlantic." — Old CouiUryman. " From what we gather from the tenor of Mr. Rridgeman's book, we should suppose that ho paid but little attention to the mere mi dits or die turns of any, but that he pursued that course which his judgment pointed out ; and in this particular, we value his book — leading the young gardener to depend more on his own judgment than on the rules of custom." American Farmer. "All those who are desirous of a work on the subject of Gardening, and one which will convey the best information on the management of Hot- beds, Asparagus beds, best mode of raising all sorts of Esculent Vegetables, Pruning, Grafting and Budding Fruit Trees, Training the Vine, Preserving the Fruit from Mildew, &c., should procure this. No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale, or decided public approbation, as this valuable compendium. Mr. Bridgeman fully understands the subject on which he treats. The very rapid sale of the eight former editions is quite a suflicicnt recommendation." — G. C. Thorbarn, in the Evening Star. " We can assure gardeners and farmers that they will in times and ways almost without number, be amply compensated by purchasing the book. Mr. Bridgeman bestows great labour on his productions of the pen, not only as to practical matter of fact, but to the various excellences of style ]iarticularly to clearness, and the avoiding a redundancy of words. The iimount of useful information in the book constitutes its value ; and all this information is adapted to this country, and its climate and its soil." — American Gardener s Magazine. " From the cursory examination we have been enabled to give ' The Young Gardener's Assistant,' we should judge that it embraces a greater amount of practical information, applicable to our climate, than can be found in any similar work. The list of fruit trees has been selected from the best authorities, both foreign and American, and is sufliciently exten- sive for any cultivator in this country." — Ncwai-k Daily Advertiser COMMENDATORY NOTICES- 173 "The author is an experienced practical gardener and seedsman, and his book is an excellent manual and guide for the beginner, whether old or young, in horticultural pursuits." — Gazette. " From the systematic arrangement of the parts, under appropriate heads, and the plain and practical nature of the instructions, it must be an invalua- ble manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of tiieir own gardens. — Albany Argus. Extract of a letter from Alex'r Walsh, Esq., Lansinburg: Dear Sir : — You will see by the next month's New-York Farmer, if you have not already seen by the Albany papers, that several copies of the Y'oung Gardener's Assistant have been given as premiums, by the State Agricultural Society. Mr. D. B. Slingerland and myself were on the com- mittee for awarding premiums, and thought your work was deserving encouragement ; and that even in this small way we might be of service in bringing it before the public as worthy of being given as premiums."* " Written with a good deal of practical knowledge of the subject on which it treats. The directions given, the author says, are the result of twenty years' experience, and we dare to say, that though submitted in an unpretending form, they will be found as useful, if not more so, than those in more costly and expensive works." — Courier 4" Enquirer. "We have undoubted authority for pronouncing this work as worth all others of a similar character that have ever been published in this country, from its adaptation to all the climates in the United States." — JV. Y. Sim. " That this is a useful work is evident from the number of editions through which it has passed. There is scarcely any employment in life more pleasing than the cultivation of a Garden with Fruits and Flowers. Those who have the opportunity to indulge themselves in this gratification, we have no doubt will derive much assistance from this publication." — JV. Y. Tribune. " Every one that cultivates a garden should possess the work, as it is a complete dictionary for young beginners in the delightful field of Horticul- ture." — Working Man's Advocate. "No work on the subject ever published in this country has met with half as extensive a sale or decided approbation, as this valuable compen- dium. INIr. Bridgeman fully understands, from practical experience, the subject on which he treats. The Calendarial Index arranges the work for every month, and refers to the various parts of the book how to proceed. This of itself is worth the price of the whole work, and cost the author immense labour. The rapid sale of the former editions, together with tlie commendation of every Agricultural and Horticultural Journal in America, and several in England, is quite suflicient recommendation. The present edition both explains and fully makes known what was thought to be a great discovery (as great as steam) on the preservation of Fruit Trees, Plants, &c., and which, to make known to the people of these United States, an application was made to the 25th Congress to vote the supposed * The American Institute has also awaided several copies of this work as premiums foi superior specimens of garden products. 174 COMMENDATORY NOTICES. ftulhor of the discover}' a sum equal to five cents from each individual in the United States — or about a million of dollars. Mr. Bridgeman has clearly proved this discovery from his long observation of the course of nature and treatment of Trees and Plants, and which only occupies some four or fivo pages of the work." — N- Y. Commercial, by G. C. Thorburn. •' The Florist's Guide. — A delightful little book, which we advise every body to purchase — at leust every body that has the least liking for the pleasing occupation on which it treats." — Courier 4" Enquirer. "The Florist's Guide," like its companion, " The Young Gardener's As- sistant," is a useful work, which every Gardener and Florist may consult to advantage. It gives minute directions concerning plants of various spe- cies; the names and characters of each being alphabetically arranged, mal.es it an invaluable manual for those who may wish to superintend the management of their own gardens." — Newark Daily Advertiser. " This is one of the best works on the subject ever published in any country : it contains Practical Directions for the Cultivation of Annual, Biennial, and Perennial Flowering Plants, of ditferent classes, Herbaceous and Shrubby, Bulbous. Fibrous, and Tuberous-rooted, including the Double Dahlia, Greenhouse Plants in Rooms, &c. &c. "A work of the above kind has been long wanted ; hitherto, it required an expenditure of some three or four dollars to get any kind of readable directions for small gardens, window gardening, plants in rooms, &c., which, when procured, were so full of botanical foppery, that plain, honest people, after wading through some three or four hundred pages, were as wise as to knowing how to set about their gardening, as when they com- menced their book. The present little work obviates all these difficulties. The author is well known as one of our practical gardeners, and it may be truly said he has rendered the ladies in particular (for wliom the work was projected) an essential service ; the directions for tiie care of the Camellia Japonica, the Double Dahlia, the sowing and treatment of Annual Flower Seed, &&, are alone worth double the price of the book ; so is the Calendarial Index, which, by the untiring industry of Mr. Bridgeman, is made to include in some half dozen pages, more valuable information than is to be found in some ponderous octavos on the same subject." — G. C- Tho7-burn, from the N. Y. Commercial. " The style is free, and the language appropriate ; the plan is judicious, and the contents embrace much well arranged practical information, unen- cumbered with disquisitions foreign to the object of the work. We very cheerfully recommend it to our readers as a cheap and useful book." Gardener's Magazine. The Florist's Guide has al^o been very favourably noticed by the editors of many other very respectable periodicals, as a work eminently calculated to promote a love for the cultivation and correct management of (lowers — the study of which, remarks one of these writers, " retincs the taste, and imparts just and ennobling views of the wise provisions of nature." 175 LINES SUGGESTED BY THE AWARD OF A GOLD MEDAL TO THE AUTHOR OF ' THE YOUNG GARDENER'S ASSISTANT,' AT THE FOURTEENTH ANNUAL FAIR OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE, 1841, FOR ITS GREAT PRACTICAL UTILITY. BY D. MITCHELL. As Valor's meed, and Honor's brightest test, I've seen a Medal on a Wanior's breast ; But to my mind it brought sad scenes to view — The sweeping carnage of red Waterloo — Th / orphan's tear — the widow's drooping head, For slaughter'd heroes on false glory's bed — The earth made desolate, its fruits despoil' d, By mad Ambition, fearless and unfoil'd ! Not so the Token thou hast gained from Peace, Thou lov'st to see fair Nature's wide increase, And the " Young Gard'ner," in thy fertile book. Finds an " Assistant " not to be mistook ! Thine is the pleasing art to cultivate. Fill Plenty's horn, and better man's estate ; Thine is the wish the Cotter's life to mend. And teach him that a garden is his friend : That Virtue smiles — sheds blessings on his head. And makes him happy in his humble shed. Who tends his " little patch " in well spent hours. Amid his kitchen treasures and his flowers ; That Vice ne'er mars a lovely scene like this — The consummation of the poor man's bliss ! Health, my firm friend, long life and health to thee, Health to the scions from the parent tree ; Well may thy trophy be a source of pride, May they preserve it, whatsoe'r betide: 'Tis a memento for imparting good, More nobly won than that for shedding blood '. APPENDIX, OONTAINING REMARKS ON THE ALLEGED DISEASE OF THE POTATO. As I have not in the article Potato, page 86, attempted to give its nistory, I would here inform the reader, that the Potato was cultivated in Britain, by Gerard, the English Botanist, in 1590, and was soon after- wards recommended by Sir Walter Raleigh as a nutritious vegetable; but although first discovered on this continent, it spread so slowly, that nearly a century elapsed before this excellent root had become a regular dish on the Farmer's table in New England. The following account of the early reception is too good to be lost. It is recorded in the N. Y. Farmer and Mechanic that two brothers, named Clarke, settled in Con- necticut, early in the 18th century, and purchased a farm near Chatham. " On a hill which still bears the name of Clarke Hill, half a peck of potatoes were planted, and after the balls had ripened on the vines, it was proposed to gather some with a view to taste the wonderful pro- duct; some balls were accordingly picked and boiled, and being placed on the table, were approached with great caution. It was at length concluded that an old negro should first taste of this rare vegetable, whose report was by no means satisfactory ; others also tasted, and the dish w'as condemned as unworthy their table and attention ; the negro was therefore directed to go and destroy the vines ; in doing so, he pulled up some potatoes with the tops ; and, amazed at the sight, soon elicited the discovery that the real fruit was to be looked for at the root end of the plant." As this vegetable is now considered one of the most important pro- ductions of the earth, upwards of one hundred millions of bushels being raised in the United States in a single year, a deficient or defec- tive crop is acknowledged by all to be such a serious calamity as to incite the most diligent enquiry into the nature and cause of the defect, or deficiency. As the seasons of 1843 and '4 were unfavorable to the growth and preservation of late potatoes, the American Institute encouraged an investigation and discussion of the subject amongst the members of the 1 78 APPENDIX. Farmers' Club; the result of which was published in the "New-York Farmer and Mechanic," vol. ii., November, 1844, from which I have selected the following extracts : " That the disease may proceed from some chemical action in the atmosphere, or from peculiar location, as high or low, new or old land, and that some varieties are more liable to disease than others," page 290. " That the potato disease was imported from Great Britain two cr three years ago ; and that a gentleman, from microscopic examination, discovered in the tubers a growth of fungus, a plant aiialagous to the mushroom family. These fungi seeds although invisible to the naked eye are readily carried about by the winds, and will penetrate wherever air will. Being once introduced from Europe, their extensive dissemi- nation here is very easy. These seeds falling on the potato in favour- able circumstances as to moisture, &c. cause the disease," 291.* The application of common salt to the soil, previous to planting, is suggested as a remedy. Lime and charcoal dust sown on the ground after plant- ing is also recommended. Another cbrresponden'. asserts, "that the disease is an old one, having been long known in Germany, as well as in England, and that there are in fact two distinct distempers, one of which is called dry rot, and the other wet rot; the dry rot often appears in a whitish surface ; if the wet rot sets in, it is black, and soft worms are to be found in the putrifying parts. The direct origin of the disease is a fungus, the remote origin is something else. One of the most fertile causes of this disease is the habit of using farm yard manure in a state of fermentation. + Plants, in a healthy growing state, are rarely attacked by the fungus ; probably, therefore, some change takes place ia potatoes before the fungus begins," page 307. * If it be true that an infectious disease existi amongst the potatoes of that country, wnicli contains a less quantity of land than one of our largest States, it may be asked, how a pro- portion could be shipped here in an eatable and plantable condition, after reseiTing a sufficiency for a population of upwards of twenty millions of inhabitants, who raise them for their calUe as well as for table use. ♦ It is upwards of thirty years since I commenced cultivating potatoes, which, accordin? to the seasons, has been attended with variable success. In 1820 my potatoes were so bad as to be scarcely eatable, I however planted some of them for seed the year following, on land situated near the Bowery, where Third street now is, which was manured with hvery stable dung ; and the product was the best I ever eat. Last season several of my acquaintance raised their early and late crops from the same lot of seed, with ditfcrent results. Those planted in April produced an abundance of excellent potatoes, while the product of those planted in June and July were represented as diseased and scarcely worth digging. The difference in all those cases must have been occasioned by the weather and not by the seed, A change of soil bow- ever, will sometimes cause a difference in the quality of potatoes. APPENDIX 179 " " That the disease in the potato arises from a small fly which lays its eggs in the vines shortly after they come up, which turn into maggots and pass through the tube of the vine into the potato. A table spoon- ful of poudrette to each plant is in this case recommended as a pre- ventive," page 324. Others contend that as every plant cultivated in the same soil for a long psrioJ is liable to become deteriorated, a new generation of plants from seed of a healthy crop is essential to preserve their pristine excel- lence. A gentleman present, however, informed the Club, that his seedlings were found in a decayed state the same as others," page 290. As it is not my intention to discourage a farther investigation of this subject, I shall not pass censure upon the ideas above advanced, but offer a few remarks founded on observation and the study of nature, which, I trust, will prove acceptable to the public. I have, in several pages of "the Young Gardener's Assistant," re- minded my readers that the various .species of plants which are cultivated in our gardens and fields, require each their peculiar aliment, they having been collected from all the diversified climates and soils in our globe; and I would here add, that it is a matter of astonishment, that so large a proportion of the fruits of the earth .should be produced m perfection in any one climate, especially in unfavourable weather, to which every part of the earth is at times liable. In page 26 of the first part, I have furnished a classification of the most important vegetables cultivated in our gardens, in which I have shown that the most essential aliment to natives of warm climates is heat, and of temperate climates moisture, and that the three elements HEAT, AIR, and MOISTURE, Constitute the food of plants in general. I have also recommended my readers to make choice of the seasons best adapted to the various articles they may wish to cultivate, as it is an indubitable fact that the element essential to the production of soma vegetables is destructive to others, which in reality cannot be raised at all under unpropitious circumstances. In proof of the above assertion, I would remind the reader that various kinds of fruit are deficient in unfavourable seasons. Cherries for instance, in the event of a single week's rain, in a certain stage of growth, will rot on the trees; and it must be admitted that other fruits deteriorate, or lose their most essential flavour in the absence of suitable aliment. Why, then, I would ask, should we expect potato crops to be uniformly good every year. It would be difficult to name any production of the earth, that yields tuU and perfect crops annually ; on the contrary, it is well known that 180 APPENDIX, famine has been of frequent occurrence in many populous countries, through short or defective supplies of the necessaries of life. It is conceded by the generality of those who have investigated the subject of disease in potatoes, that the tubers soon become defective after the tops cease to grow ; and common observation teacheth that when plants of a succulent nature are deprived of their functions or means of growing luxuriantly, they continue to deteriorate until their juices become so corrupt, that they not only die, but contaminate the earth in which they were planted, to the destruction of their neighbour- ing inmates of the garden or field ; and even potato tubers, after being taken from the earth, will injure those which come in contact with them by the emission of their corrupt juices iMr. Teschemacher, in a communication jwblished in " the New England Farmer," observes, " That the potato decays previous to the appearance of worms, and that worms are never found in the sound part of the potato either eating their way in, or depositing their eggs, nor have 1 seen the worms in that part of the potato in which the fungus have already commenced vegetating; it is only in the rotten part that the worms exist after the fungus has caused the decay. These worms are uniform, and appear to be of the same species from whatever cause the decay may arise." It is precisely the case with other kinds of vegetables, and also with fruit ; and it is evident that all those worms, insects, and reptiles which prey upon the vegetable family, are more partial to that particular kind of vegetable matter which first generated them, than to any other; hence the Peach insects feed on its fruit in embryo, as well as in a state of, and even beyond maturity ; the Cabbage worms also prey on plants of the same genera or species ; and when those enemies of the vegetable family cannot obtain the parts which are the most palatable to them, or congenial to their nature, they will feed upon diseased trees, plants, or other matter, which contain similar juices, or nutriment, in prefer- ence to any other description of food. It is generally allowed that the early planted potatoes have for the last two years, yielded as well as usual, and that they have been of very superior quality. It is only the late crops which are comjdained of. Now, it must be admitted that if the seed potatoes planted in June or July, whether raised here, or imported, had been diseased, they would have shown it at the time of their being cut and prepared for planting, as it is notorious that the discovery of defect is generally made at the time of gathering the crop, or soon after they are heaped together. APPENDIX. 181 It must, however, be conceded, that seed potatoes kept until July for the purpose of late planting, may have become deteriorated, because those toots being biennial cannot be expected to retain their health and vigour to so late a period ; which, in some measure, accounts for early varieties being more seriously affected by the extreme heat than the late keeping red-skinned varieties, which will retain their vegetative properties even in dry seasons, so as to produce a good crop if not retarded by being over heated, to which they are liable, especially if placed in contact with acrid manure, which is destructive to all descriptions of plants in hot diy weather. New land without manure generally produces the best crops in dry 6ea.sons It may be observed farther, that when the leaves or vines of the potato wither prematurely through extreme heat, the tubers become af- fected to such a degree, that rain late in the season hastens their de- struction instead of nurturing them, they consequently return to their native element. From the above considerations, as well as from the knowledge 1 have acquired of the nature of plants in general, I have come to the conclu- sion that the alleged disease in potatoes was not occasioned by defective seed, but by the extreme heat of the Summer, followed by the excessive rain in Autumn.* In some instances the defect may have been acceler- ated by an injudicious use of acrid manure, and in others from their being planted in low undrained ground. It often happens that potatoes deteriorate from not being properly dried when taken from the ground, which on being heaped together, become heated, and consequently roL All which is respectfully submitted. THOMAS BRIDGEMAN. New- York, February 1st, 1845 • As this review was elicited by the discussions relative to the defect in potatoes the last two years, the conclusion has special reference tliereto. It must, however, be acknowledged, that the extremes of heat, cold, and moisture, are alike detrimental to vegetation in all •euons ; and that hot. dry siniimere are often attended with results as fatal to vcfetaWe ptaductions as the coldness of winter. 182 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES, SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF APPLES, Continued from piigc 46, Part III. Beauty ov Kent.. Fruit very large, roundish, but flat at the base ; Bkin smootli, greenish yellow, with stripes of purphsii red ; flesh juicy, crisp, and tender, with an agreeable sub-acid flavour : in October and November. Canadian Ueinette, Rnneite du Canada blanche, Portuifal Apple, Grosse Rcint tic d^ Angleicne, I'oiiime du Caen, Mela Janurea. Fruit larse, broad, and flat ; skin greenisii yellow, tinned with brown ; flesh yellowish white, (inn, juicy, and of a high sub-acid flavour: from December to March. CiiANDLEit. A native winter fruit of Pornfret, Connecticut. Large, round- ish, slightly flattened ; skin thickly streaked with dull red on a greenish yellow ground with gray dots ; flesh greenish white, tender, juicy, ami rich. Court of Wick Pippin, Fn/s Pippin, Gulden Drop, Wood's Transparent Pippin, Phillip's Reinette, Knighlwirk Pippin. An English winter variety, well adapted tor Canada or Maine. Fruit below the middle size, regularly formed, roundish-ovate; skin greenish yellow, mottled with orange and red at maturity; flesh pale yellow, tender, juicy, and high flavoured. Dutch Miunonne, Reinette Dor'ce, Pomiue de Laak, Paternoster Apple. A winter fruit, large, roundish ; skin dull orange, streaked and mottled with red, dotted with russet ; flesh crisp ; juice plentiful, with a delicious aromatic flavour. EIaster Pippin, Cluremont Pippin, Ironstone Pippin, Young's Long Keeping, French Crab. Fruit middle size, somewhat globular; skin deep green, shaded with a pale livid brown; flesh very firm, and though not juicy, of a good, sub-acid flavour. This variety will keep sound two years. Herefordshire Pearmain, Winter Pearinain, Royal Pearmain, Rot/ale d' Angleterre. A fine winter dessert fruit above medium size, form oblong; skin russety green, mottled with red, and dotted with grayish specks ; flesh tender, with pleasant aromatic flavour. Tree an abundant bearer. Lyscu.m, Osgood's Favourite. A Massachusetts variety of merit. Fruit large, round ; skin greenish yellow, mottled with red ; flesh fine grained, ex- ceedingly mild and agreeable ni flavour: in use Irom b'eptember to November. Lyman's 1'umpkin JSvveet. A very large api)le raised by Mr. S. Lyman, Manchester, Connecticut. Hk'ni smooth, i)ale yellow ; flesii firm, sweet, juicy, and excellent tor baking : in the autumn. The tree bears prodigious crops. Northern Spy. A native variety of the Spitzenburgi) family. Fruit large, conical, considerably ribbed ; skin smooth, yellow ground, nearly covered with rich dark red and purplish streaks; flesh yellowish white, and of a rich, aio- matic, sub-acid flavour : good from December to May. Peck's Pleasant. This variety resembles the Yellow Newtown Pippin, only it is larger; skin smooth, and when first gathered green, changing to yellow, with bright blush cheek and scattered gray dots ; flesh yellowish, fin© grained, juicy, and tender, with a delicious high aromatic flavour in winter. Ross Nonpareil. A delicious Irish variety, approaching in flavour to som9 kinds of pear; fruit below medium size, roundish; skin covered with a thia mellow russet, faintly stained with red ; flesh greenish white, tender, and of a rich aromatic flavour : in perfection the end of October. Tree a profuse bearer, and worthy of a place in every amateur's garden. .Summer Sweet Paradise. A Pennsylvania Iruit of large size ; round, a little flattened at both ends ; skin rather thick, pale green, tinged with yellow, and sprinkled with large gray dots; flesh tender, crisp, juicy, and of a sweet, rich, aromatic flavour : ripe in August and September. Sore OF Wine, Rode Wyn Appel, Sapson, Sops in Wine. A handsoma little autumn ajiple for the dessert ; skin smooth, crimson, covered with a delicata light bloom: flesh white, with stains of a pinkish hue, firm, crisp, and juicy. DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF CHERRIES. 183 Victuals and Drink, i??> Sweet, Pompey. Fruit large, oblong, rather ir- regular: skiu rougli, dull yellow, marbled witli russet ; flesh yellowish, tender, breaking, and ol' a rich sjirishtly flavour: in perlection from October to March. The trarreau de Mai. A very early variety im- ported by Col. Wilder; fruit rather small, oval heart-shaped; skin deep rich red ; flesh, when fully ripe, sweet and good : ri|)e by the end of 3Iay. BiGARREAu China, Chinese Heart. A fine variety raised by the late Mr. W. Prince, of Flushing, L. I. Fruit of medium size, oval heart-shaped, with a distinct suture line; skin, when fully ripe, glossy red, mottled with numerous light spots ; flesh firm, and of a rich peculiar flavour: late in July. Bigarreau Holland, Spotted Bigarreau, Armstrong''s Bigarreau. Fruit very large, of a regular heart-shape ; skiu palo yellow, mottled and sjiotted with bright red; flesh juicy, sweet, and e.xcellent: towards the end of June. Bigarreau Tardif ue Hildesheim, Hildesheim Bigarreau. Fruit of me- dium size, heart-shaped ; skin yellow, mottled and marbled with red ; flesh pale yellow, firm, with a sweet and agreeable flavour. This variety ripens here in Augmit, and is considered by Thompson tlie latest sweet cherry known. Dowmng's Red Cheek. Aji excellent seedling cherry raised at tlie nursery of A. J. Downing, Newburgh. Fruit rather large, regularly obtuse heart- shaiwd ; skin thin, white, with a rich dark crimson cheek; flesh yellowish, of a sweet and luscious flavour : about the middle of Jiuie. DowNToN. A beautiiul variety raised by T. A. Knight, of Downton Castle, England. Fruit very large, blunt heart-shaped ; skin cream colour, stained and marbled with red dots ; a delicious cherry early in July. Early Purple Guigne, Early PfJrple Griotte. An early variety ripening towards the end of May, newly introduced from England. Fruit of iHedium size ; skin dark red and purple ; flesh purple, tender, juicy, and delicious. Ma.n'ning's 3I0TTLED, Mottled Bigarreau. A beautiful heart cherry, raised by Mr. 3Ianning from a seed of the Bigarreau ; fruit above medium size, roundish heart-shaped; skin glossy amber colour, mottled with red; flesh, when fully ripe, yellow and tender, with a delicious juice : ripens late in June. Transparent Guigne, Transparent Gean, Transparent. Fruit small, borne in pairs, and heart-shaped; skin glossy, thin, and nearly transparent ; colour yellowish white, delicately mottled with fine red ; flesh tender, meltiugi and sweet : ripe early in July. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF FOREIGN GRAPES, Continued from page 78, Part III. [Those desigtiated thus * will ripen in the open air. Those marked thus t require but little forcing in favourable seasons.] * Black Cluster, Black Morillon, True Burgundy, Early Black, Aor 184 DESCRIPTIVE LIST OK FOREIGN GRAPES. vrrna. Runclies ratlier larger tlian tliose of the INIiller's IJurguudy ; berries middle size, soniewhal oval; skin of a very black colour; juice ricli and sweet: tlie iVuit ripens in the open air about the middle orscptt-nibcr. Bl-vck Damascus, Worksop Manor Grape. Bunches middle size ; berries lar{(e, globular; skin thin, ot' a rtae black colour; flesh delicate ; juice rich, and of exquisite flavour when properly cultivated under glass. ' t Bi^cK FuoNTiGNAN, Black Frontignac, Violet Frontignac, Muscat Noir, Black Constantia of some. Berries of medium size, round, and grow close on the bunches; skin black; flesh tender; the juice of a rich vinous musky fla- vour: it ripens in October, in favourable seasons without tire-heat. t Black Hamburgh, Warner^s Black Hambvrgh, Potter Bleu, Victoria of .some collections. Bunches tolerably large, with two short compact shoul- ders ; berries pretty large, of an oval figure ; skin rather thick, of a deep pur- ple colour, nearly black ; flesh tender ; juice sugary and rich : a good and reg- ular bearer. Wilmot's New Black Hamburgh is said to bear larger berries. Black Lombardy, WesVs St. Peter's. Bunches long, with large shoulders; berries large, roundish oval ; skji thin, very black at maturity ; juice plentiful and liigh flavoured : it requires a high temperature, and is then a great bearer. Black Muscat of ALB:xANr)RiA, Red Muscat of Alexandria, Red Fron- tignac of Jerusalem.' Bunches large and shouldered; berries large, oval; skin tliick, of a reddish colour, becoming black at maturity ; flesh quite firm, with a rich vinous flavour: requires a vinery with fire-heat. t Black MuscAniiNE, Black Chasselas. Chasselas Noir. Bunches of me- dium size, comi)act ; berries globular ; skin black, covered with fine bloom ; juice rich if well ripened : it reen air towards the end of Aufiust. * ^\lnTE ToKAV, Grai/ Tiikin/, Tttkai hinnr. Hunches of medium size, compact; berries oval, closely set ; skin dull white ; flesh very delicate, sweet, and jjerfumed : good for wine and for tlie dessert. It will ripen in the open air. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF NATIVE GRAPES. Diana. A seedling of the Catawba, raised by Mrs. Diana Crehore, of Boston. Fruit resemblina; the Catawba, but paler in colour; bunches loose; berries round,. juicy, and tine flavoured : it ripens two weeks earlier than the parent. Gilbert's Wuite Sho.nga. This variety was found by (iarret Gilbert, of the city of New York, on the Shonara jMonntains in IH'J"), and planted in his gar- den. It is a great bearer, of similar habits with the Isabella, differing from that kind ordy in colour, and coming to maturity a little earlier. Lenoir, Sumpter, Clarence. This variety was introduced by Mr. Lenoir, of the .Santee river, Carolina. Bunches large, very handsome : berries small, round ; skin purple, with a light bloom ; flesh tender, sweet, and excellent. Missouri, Missouri Seedling. Bunches of medium size ; berries small and round; skin black, with a little bloom ; flesh tender, sweet, and pleasant. Ohio, Segar Box Grape, Longwurth's Ohio. The cuttings from which Mr, Longworth's first stock originated, were left at his residence by an unlaiowii friend, in a cigar Ixix. Bunches from six to ten inches long; berries round and small ; skin thin, purple ; flesh tender and melting : a good dessert fruit. Siiurtlefk's Seedling, liaised by Dr. !S. A. Shurtleft', of Pemberton Hill, Boston. Hunches large, often weighing a pound ; berries oval, of medium size ; skin thick, light purple, with a grayish bloom ; flesh firm, and of e .\cellent flavour: the fruit i.s lit for the table in iSeptcmber. U(MiEE Grape. A native grape found on the banks of the I'chee creek, Russell county, Alabama. The bunches are long, very compact, and of a jet black colour ; the berries yield but little juice, which is extremely rich, and makes delicious wine without sugar. Wjmie Scui-i'erxon. Bunches short and close set ; berries large, of a roundisii figure; skin white, with some daik specks : juice sweet and rich: it is a great bearer, riiiening its fruit early. 5)5" The Managers of the American Institute having at their nineteenth Annual Fair, held at Castle Garden, in the City of New York, awarded pre- miums for Native Wine, I here insert a copy of the .ludges' Report. " Report on Native Wine tested October 21s/, 1846, by C. Henry Hall, W. NiBLO, and Adoniram Chandler, Committee of Judges on Wine." Tlie five kinds of wine described below, were sent by Mr. N. Longworth, of Cincinnati, Oliio, to whom a Silver Cup was awarded. " No. 1.— A fine light wnne, called ' Ladies' Wine,' with sugar added before fermentation; delicious in flavour, and will compete with foreign sweet wine. " No. 2.— A light dry wine, from the Catawba grape: sound, of peculiar flavour, resembling that of Hock and of the Hou(iuet. "No. 3.— A good dry wine, of pure juice, dilferent vintage from the last describe*!, but good sound wine, although not high flavoured. "No. 4. — A dry wine from the pure juice of the Herbebont Grape. It is sound, of the peculiar flavom' of the grape, and will without doubt be achnired DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PEACHES. 187 "■No. 5.— From the Missouri Grape, five per cent, brandy. The wine is thin in body, and wanting Havour, |)erhaps arising from our not having liad a fair chance of la.. Fruit of medium size, obovate ; skin pale yellow, marked with green- ish russet; flesh fine grained, and melting, with a perfumed high flavour. Queen of the Low Countries, Heine des Pays Bus. Fruit large, broad pyriform ; skin dull yellow, mottled with russet, and overspread with fine dark red ; flesh melting, with a rich sub-acid vinous flavour : early in October. Rostiezer. a (Jerman pear of medium size ; oblong pyriform ; skin yel- lowish green, with reddish brown cheek, and light coloured dots; flesh juicy, melting, sweet, and palatable: in September and October. St. GmsLAiN. An e.\celleat Belgium autunm pear, introduced by S. G, Per- DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS 189 kins, Esq,, of Boston. Fruit of medium size, pyriform ; skin pale yellow, with d few gray specks ; flesli white, buttery, juicy, and of a ricii spri^fitly flavour. Thompscn. Tliis fine autumn pear was named in honour of Mr. Robert Thompson, Superintendent of the London Ilorlicultural ^Society's garden. Fruit of medium size, obovate; skin pale lemon-yellow, dotted and streaked with russet ; flesli white, buttery, and melting, with an agreeable aromatic flavour: tree hardy and prolific, producing its fruit in October and November. Van Moxs Leon Le Clerc. A splendid autumn pear, imported by Col. Wilder of Boston. Fruit large, oblong-ovate ; skin yellowish, mingled with brown ; flesh yellowish white, rich, and melting : in October and November. Van Buren. A seedling raised by Gov. Edwards of New Haven. Fruit large, obovate ; skin clear yellow, with a rich orange-red blush, and russet sijots ; flesh sweet, and perfumed ; excellent for baking and preserving. SELECT DESCRIPTIVE LIST OF PLUMS, Continued from page 131, Part III. Autumn Gage, Roe's Autumn Gage- A new late plum, raised by WiUiam Roe, Esq., of Newburgh. Fruit of medium size, oval ; skin pale yellow, with whitish bloom ; flesh juicy, and of delicate pleasant flavour : in September. Buel's Favourite. An excellent clingstone plum, raised by Isaac Dennis- ton, of Albany. Fruit pretty large, ovate ; skin pale green, sprinkled with lighter dots, and a little red ; flesh juicy, and high flavoured : end of August. Cruger's Scarlet, Cruger's Seedling. A seedling raised by Henry Cruger, JV^., of New York. Fruit rather larger than the Green Gage, roundish oval; skin a lively red covered with thin blue bloom ; fle.sh of a sprightly flavour. Damson, Common Damson, Purple Damson, Black Damson. A favourite fruit with old Ijousekeepers for preserves, of which there are many varieties, which from being frequently raised from seed varies somewhat in character They ripen in succession from September to November. Denxiston's Superb. Fruit round, a little flattened ; skin yellowish green, with purple blotclies, overspread with a thin bloom ; flesh very thick, juicy, • with a ricii vinous flavour : a freestone, ripening towards the end of August. IcKWoRTH Lmperatrice, Knig/ifs No. G. A choice seedling from Mr. Knight of Downton Castle. Fruit above mediuna size, obovate ; skin purple, embroidered with streaks of golden fawn colour ; flesh juicy and rich : it ripens *arly in October, and may be kept till Christmas if laid away in paper. Isabella. An attractive looking English clingstone plum of medium size; skin dark red in the sun, paler in the shade, and dotted; flesh yellow, rich, juicy, and of delicious flavour: towards the end of August. Jefferson. A plum of high merit, raised by the late Judge Buel. Fruit large, oval ; skin golden yellow, with a purplish red cheek, covered with a thin bloom : flesh rich, juicy, and high flavoured : towards the end of August. Lombard, Bleecker\s Scarlet, Beekman's Scarlet. This variety was brought into notice by Mr. Lombard, of Springfield, .Massachusetts. Fruit of medium size, roundish oval ; skin delicate violet, dotted with red ; flesh yellow, juicy, and pleasant : in August. Orange Plum, Orange Gage. A plum of extraordinary size from the gar- den of Mr. Teller, of Rhinebeck, New York. Skin bronze yellow, clouded with purple ; flesh deep yellow, a little coarse grained, but of a pleasant acid flavour : ripens the last of August. Purple Favourite. This variety was first introduced by A. J. Downing, Estj., of the Newburgh Nursery. Fruit above medium size, roundish ovate ; skin light brown in the shade, purple in the sun, dotted with golden specks, and thin light bloom ; flesh pale green, very juicy, tender, luscious, and melt- ing : ripens towards the last of August. AMERICAN STANDARD HORTICULTURAL BOOKS. The Young- Gardener's Assistant, contaimng Catalogues of Garden and Flower Seed, with Practical Directions under each head for the Cultivation of Culi- naiy Vegetables and Flowers; also, directions for culti- vating Fruit Trees, Shiubs, and Vines, including the Fig, the Cranberry, and the Grape Vine. To which is added a Calendar to each part, showing the wi-''.:* ",' ^' A, ' >