F O/Vg-Rsi ■W'.-T^a i-ndiesUT, Hut OTK l>>^ ■< 'f ■ ■• -r^ Glass "^^^^ WINCHESTER Winchester is located in the beautiful and far-famed Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. It is the metropolis of the lower Shenandoah Valley and is the oldest place South of the Potomac and West of the Blue Ridge. It is therefore rich in historic asso- ciations and the seat of an old established society. Winchester was established by law in 1752. Tradition places the nucleus of a town where Winchester now stands as early as 1732, for it is related that two of the best known families now residing in Win- chester had their origin in two cabins located on what is now known as the town run. This battle-scarred town was the scene of many conflicts during the civil war and the town is said to have changed hands 72 times. Winchester is about 70 miles from Washington across country and 87 miles by the B. & O. Ry. It is the Southern terminus of the Cumberland Valley Ry., which connects this city with H'arrisburg, Pa. The distance is 116 miles. Six fine turnpikes also connect Winchester with the out- side world. These turnpikes are fine thoroughfares for the carriage and automobile and there are many points of interest along these pikes. FORT LOUDOUN The French, with their Indian alHes, had for many years gradually been making encroachments upon British territory in America, when, in 1753, Maj. Geo. Washington wa^ sent by Governor Dinwiddle, the then colonial governor of Virginia with a letter to the French commander remonstrating against his encroachments upon the territory of Virginia. This letter of remonstrance was disregarded by the Frenchman and, in 1754, the great French and Indian war, between the British govern- ment and France commenced. In the Spring of 1754, the Indians suddenly and unexpectedly moved ofif, and entirely left the Valley, having been invited by the French to cross the Alleghany Mount- ains. After the first battle of the war, the command of the Virginia forces, by the sudden death of Colonel Fry, developed upon Washington. He erected Fort Necessity which was soon attacked by the French and Indians. After a capitulation with the enemy, Washington, with his little army, retired to Winchester. 4 , The next year, the British government sent to the colonies Gen. Braddock, with two regiments of EngHsh regnlars. He pro- ceeded from Alexandria to Winchester, where Washington joined him. They then moved on for the West, and within 7 miles of Fort Duquesne occurred the unfortunate defeat of Braddock and the dreadful slaughter of his army. Immediately after the defeat and death of Braddock, Washington retreated to Win- chester. The whole western frontier was left exposed to the incursions of the Indians and French, who greatly emboldened by victory made constant raids upon the settlements and sent the murderous savage upon the defenseless inhabitants of the frontier of Virginia. Washington was deeply concerned at the situation of the defenseless people on the border and did all he could in their defense. He prevailed upon the governor to send additional forces and to build a fort at Winchester. In 1756, Washington built Fort Loudoun, named in honor of the Earl of Loudoun then in command of the colonial forces. The location was admirably selected since it commands a large extent of country. No foe could approach it without being exposed to the rifles of those within the fort and no formidable attempts were ever made by the enemy against it. The fort covered an area of about half an acre. It was erected by the soldiers of the First Virginia Regi- ment and Washington is said to have brought some workmen from jNIount Vernon to construct the iron work. The fort mounted six eighteen pounders, six twelve pounders, six six pounders, four swivels and two homitzers. It had a very deep well inside the walls. The well, one hundred and three feet deep, was cut through solid limestone rock. This well is still an object of great interest. Loudoun or Main street, more than a century ago, was cut through the fort ; all that remains of it now is the southwestern bastion. This, however, together with the well are objects of great interest. The bastion is on the lawn of the Ft. Loudoun Seminary and the well stands in an adjoining yard. "SHAWNEE SPRINGS'! On the Southeast Suburb of Winchester arc the famous Shawnee Springs, supposed to have been the hea(l([uarters or 5 Court of the Indian emperor, the father of the great Indian chief, Cornstalk. Cornstalk, no doubt, was born and reared in this famous "Shawnee Cabins" settlement. The Shawnees are said to have been the most bloody and terrible of Indian warriors and it is supposed that the entire valley was held by the powerful con- federacy of Shawnees, when the first settlers came here. It was chiefly the Shawnees that defeated Braddock's army in 1755. ROUSS SPRING Just a very short distance southeast of the famous Shawnee Springs is a very large spring, now known as "Rouss Spring." From this spring, Winchester gets its water supply. The Hol- Hngsworth family have been in continuous possession of this place since it was surveyed in November, 1732, for Abraham Hollingsworth, the first settler in this immediate section. , It is said that Abraham Hollingsworth, as a squatter, had lived here several years before this. In this year, 1732, Abraham's father paid him a visit and was killed by a buffalo while hunting here. 6 The house, which now stands near the spring and which is occupied by the descendants of Abraham HolHngsworth, was built in 1754 and has often been attacked by the Indians. In this house have been entertained Washington, Fairfax, Daniel Morgan and other noted men. Many interesting relics of the olden days are now in the possession of this family. TAYLOR HOTEL This very famous hotel is located on Main street about half way between Water and Piccadilly streets. This spot has been occupied as a hotel site continuously since Edward McGuire, in 1753, came to Winchester and built, on this same spot, the noted McGuire tavern. This most noted and high-toned tavern was the meeting place for all public affairs and is frequently mentioned in the old newspapers. The original house consisted of two long log and weather-boarded buildings, fifty feet each in length, with an alley dividing them. Next to this house stood Brady's tavern, in the rear of which, in 1808, the first clei)hant ever exhibited in the valley made his debut. A man by the name of Barrick succeeded McGuire and Barrick was succeeded by Bushrod Taylor from whom the hotel got its present name. Taylor ran a stage line from his hotel to Alexandria and this was a great public convenience at that time when railroads were just beginning to be thought of. HOUSE IN WHICH DANIEL MORGAN DIED This house is located on Amherst street near Washington street. Morgan, who had become infirm with age, in 1800, moved to Winchester and resided in this house with his youngest daughter, who had married Maj. James Heard. In this house he died July 6th, 1802. He was buried in the old Presbyterian graveyard at the end of Piccadilly street. His gravestone was much mutilated during the civil war and after the war his remains were removed to Mt. Hebron Cemetery, where they now lie and over which are fragments of the slab brought from the old burying place. COURT HOUSE (Built 1840) Used as hospital during civil war by Confederate and Fed- eral armies. WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS This interesting old building stands at the corner of Braddock and Cork streets. Washington had been given the command of all the forces raised and to be raised in Virginia and he made Winchester his headquarters. This building was used as head- quarters in 1755, before Ft. Loudoun was completed. CANNON BALL HOUSE This house stands on the northwest corner of Main and Clifford streets. During the civil war a cannon ball passed entirely through the house. There is a black spot painted on the north wall showing where the ball entered the house and on the south side of the house, the ball itself, protruding from the wall, shows where it emerged. STONEWALL JACKSON'S HEADQUARTERS From the Fall of 1861 to the Spring of 1862, General T. J. (Stonewall) Jackson occupied as his headquarters the Moore house on Peyton street between Braddock and Washington streets. During that time he boarded at the Presbyterian parsonage then and now occupied by the Rev. J. R. Graham. He worshiped at the old Kent Street Church, and many yet living remember him gravely walking down to church on Sunday mornings when he was not occupied in fighting. ■ HOUSE IN WHICH PRESIDENT MCKINLEY WAS MADE A MASON The building in which WilHam McKinley, afterwards Presi- dent of the United States, was made a Mason is still intact and stands on the east side of Main street about three doors from the corner of Piccadilly street. McKinley was an officer in the Union army and it was while fighting near Winchester that he joined the Masonic order. While in one of the hospitals, he noticed that certain persons were receiving much attention and care regardless of whether they belonged to the Union army or to the Confederate. On inquiry, he was told that they were brother Masons. McKinley 10 then made known his desire to associate himself with an order in which brotherhood was such a paramount tenet. Mr. McKinley and his wife paid Winchester a visit and spent a day here while he was President of the United States. SHERIDAN'S HEADQUARTERS Located on the Southwest corner of Braddock and Piccadilly Streets. From here, on the morning of Oct. 19, 1864, Gen. Sheridan started on his ride to Cedar Creek battlefield — a ride made famous by the verses of Thomas P)uchanan Read. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH EDIFICE IN WINCHESTER This large stone building, now^ used as a school for col- ored children, is located just East of the B. & O. R. R. Station and on a ridge where, at one time, were four churches all in a row. It was built in 1790. Before this date the members II of the Presbyterian denomination which was possibly the oldest religious society in the vicinity of Winchester, wor- shiped at the old Opequon Church at Kernstown. In 1838, when there was a division in the church the old stone building was abandoned and the two branches — the "Old School" and the "Nev/ School" built separate church edifices. CHRIST CHURCH (Episcopal) This church was first located on the Southwest corner of the public square, on a lot given by Lord Fairfax in 1752. Lord Fairfax was buried in the graveyard of the old church but upon the sale of the lot to private individuals, his remains were removed and now repose under the altar of the new church at the corner of Water and Washington Streets. Fair- fax died in 1781, age 90 years, at Greenway Court, Clarke Co., Virginia. JOHN KERR PUBLIC SCHOOL BUILDING This was the first public gift to Free Education in the State of Virginia. Presented to Winchester by John Kerr. Located on Southwest corner of Market and Cork Streets. 12 STAR FORT Just north of Winchester many earthworks were thrown up during the civil war. Many of them are now standing, Star Fort being the most conspicuous. Milroy, who com- manded the Union Forces, held these fortifications after he had improved and strengthened them. It was supposed that it would be a difficult job to dislodge him with his 7000 men. But on June 13th, 1863, Gen. Ewell, leading General Lee's advance Corps, gave battle to General Milroy and hemmed him in so closely that it was only at the end of the second day and after very hard fighting, that Milroy succeeded in cutting his way out. More than half of Milroy's army was captured and the rest escaped in small detachments. "GLEN BURNIE" "Glen Burnie," the former residence of Governor James \\^ood, loth governor of Virginia, is on the western suburb of Winchester. It is now the residence of Colonel W. A¥. Glass. UNITED STATES MILITARY CEMETERY This cemetery, in which 2,098 known dead and 2,382 unknown dead are buried, was established and dedicated x\pnl 8, 1866. At the entrance to the cemetery is the Superintend- ent's lodge, and none but disabled meritorious officers or pri- vates of the United States army can hold the position as Superintendent, under a law in relation thereto. In the cen- ter of the grounds is a large mound surmounted by a flag- staff sixty feet in height, to the top of which is hoisted at sunrise and lowered at sunset, every day in the year, a United States flag. Names and dates of battles from the scenes of which the dead were removed to this cemetery: Kernstown, March 23, 1862; Union forces under Gen. Shields, Confeder- ates under Gen. Stonewall Jackson. Banks retreat. May 23. 1862. Miles' Surrender, Sept., 1862 at Harpers Ferry. Alil- roy's fight, June 1862. Martinsburg, July 25, 1864. Winches- ter, Sept. 19, 1864. Cedar Creek, Oct. 19, 1864, Union forces 13 ■ under Gen: Sheridan, Confederates under Gen. Early. Many were found buried where skirmishes had taken place in the vicinity of Winchester. MT. HEBRON CEMETERY On the 24th of June, 1844, the present beautiful "Mount Hebron Cemetery" was .dedicated, with impressive and exten- sive religious and other services in the presence of a large assemblage. It is situated upon a commanding eminence just outside of the city limits and contains 35 acres of land. It is one of the loveliest spots of ground for the purpose to which it is dedicated, to be found anywhere. The prayer, offered by Dr. Wm. M. Atkinson at the dedication, is a rare and beautiful gem. It has been published. In August, 1844, the wife of Dr. Atkinson died and she was the first person whose remains were interred in this cemetery. Dr. Atkinson, him- self, died on the 27th of Feb., 1849 ^.nd is buried in this same cemetery. In the front of the grounds, near the gate, and with a vacant space surrounding it, is the grave of General Daniel Morgan. On the broken slab that covers the grave is this inscription : Major-General Daniel Morgan departed this life On July 6th, 1802, In the 67tli year of his age Patriotism and Valor were the Prominent Features of his Character, and The honorable services he rendered to his Country During the Revolutionary War Crowned him with Glory, and will remain in the hearts of his Countrymen A Perpetual Monument to his memory. 14 STONEWALL CEMETERY Within Mt. Hebron Cemetery is situated the Confederate Stonewall Cemetery. This was opened formally on October 9, 1866. The crowning" feature of this "bivouac of the dead" is the magnificent marble monument — a shaft 48 feet high, surmounted by a Confederate soldier. Beneath it lie the remains of 829 unknown soldiers. On the base of the monu- ment are the words : "To the Unknown Dead." On another portion of the base are the words : "Who they were none know ; what they were all know." - RUINS OF OLD LUTHERAN CHURCH Within the enclosure of Mt. Hebron Cemetery stands the ruins of the old Lutheran church. The site was given by Lord Fairfax in 1753 and the building was commenced in 1764 but was not completed till 1793, which date it bore on the gable end. In 1772 the walls were completed. The spire was not erected until 1821. During the Revolutionary War — 1775-81, the church was used for a barracks. In 1785, when Rev. Christian Streit took charge of the church, there were no doors nor win- 15 dow-g'lass nor shutters. In 1790, they had cast at Bremen, Germany, two bells of extraordinary sweetness, and in 1795 they had an organ put in. THE VALLEY TURNPIKE The Valley Pike extends from Winchester to Staunton, Va., a distance of 92 miles. It traverses the far-famed Valley of the Shenandoah and is a great thoroughfare for the tourist. With the beautiful Blue Ridge on the East, the rugged Moun- tains of the Alleghanies on the West, and the fertile fields spread out before the eye, the tourist has a most inspiring scene. There are many points of interest along this thor- oughfare and many battles have been fought near it. Over the first part of this pike, Sheridan's famous ride from Win- chester to Cedar Creek took place. When the tourist enters the "Vale of Shenandoah" he is eager to see the "old mill by the way." He is not disappointed when he drives out the Valley Pike, for within about one mile of town, the old Hol- lingsworth Mill greets his eye. This beautiful stone mill, which was purchased in 1873 by Mr. Festus Hahn, was built in 1834 by Isaac Holling"swortli. The large brick house just South of the mill was also built by the Hollingsworths. From this point, can be seen three mills all run by the same little stream of water which has its source only about a mile from here. This little stream, which crosses the pike a short distance further on, turns five or six other mills before it empties into the Opequon about 5 miles below town. It is called Abram's Creek after Abraham Hollingsworth, one of the very first settlers in this vicinity. Where the creek crosses the road stands the body of an old tree that was pierced by a cannon ball during the civil war. A short distance further on and about two miles from Winchester, the Cedar Creek grade intersects the pike. Here stands a very interesting and historic toll-gate. This is the oldest gate on the pike and the same family has been taking the toll since 1840 wdien the gate was built. It was here that Charlotte Hillman, a young and beautiful girl, held up Sheridan's army and insisted upon the usual tribute of toll. When Sheridan and his staff, heading the army, reached the toll-gate, the toll-pole was down and guarded by Miss Hillman, who demanded toll. Sheridan paid his toll and his staff fol- lowed his example. "But," said Sheridan as he passed through the gate, "I cannot vouch for my army." When the common soldiery came up Miss Hillman raised the poll, but stood at her post all day long cutting a notch in the toll-pole for every ten soldiers who passed the gate. After the war was over Miss Hillman counted the notches in the toll-pole and sent her bill to Washington. The bill was promptly paid. This lady kept the toll-gate until her death a few years ago and her son now takes the toll. KERNSTOWN Kernstown is on the Valley Pike and four miles from W^inchester. A short distance west of the village stands the Presbyterian church. ITere can be seen the foundation walls of the old Presbvterian or as it is claimed by the Reformers, 17 the Reformed Calvinist church. This was one of the very first, if not the first church in the valley. In the graveyard are many ancient graves and tombstones. One rude slab of the native limestone, rudely lettered and now almost en- tirely illegible bears the date of 1742. This is the oldest tomb- stone in the entire valley. It is to the memory of the wife and two children of a Mr. Wilson, an Irishman who is said to have been the school master of that section. KERNSTOWN BATTLEFIELD Oyer on the ridge, about i^ miles West of Kernstown is the Kernstown battlefield. Here the Confederates under Stonewall Jackson and the Federals under Gen. Shields clashed in one of the sharpest encounters of any of the valley campaign. When the firing began at four o'clock in the afternoon, the lines were almost within stone's throw of each other. Both the Federals and the Confederates were endeav- oring to reach a long stone fence which ran across an open field when the Twenty-fourth Virginia, running rapidly for- ward arrived at this natural breastwork and poured a volley into the enemy who were then only ten or fifteen yards away. Shield's force, with an overwhelming number, soon swept over the fence and drove the Confederate wing into the woods, taking two guns and a number of prisoners. This fierce and frightful engagement in which Jackson lost nearly 20 per cent, of his force, lasted until nightfall when Jackson decided to fall back to Cedar Creek. Gen. Shields lost 600 men. The old stone fence is still standing and the earthworks, extending about a mile, are still well preserved. These earthen breast- works were thrown up during the second Kernstown battle. The old soldiers who fought here will find many other old relics still standing on the battlefield. One that is especially striking is a large oak tree which had its body pierced with many minnie balls. Two men whose names were Dick Hotzel and Maj. Booker, were shot behind this tree.. This Battle of Kernstown was fought on March 23, 1862. In driving to this battlefield from Winchester, leave the Valley Pike about 100 yards south of Hillman's toll-gate and drive i^ miles. .1 what is called the Middle road. HACK PLACE AT BARTONSVILLE Continuing on up the pike, we come to Bartonsville, six miles from Winchester. At this place, just before passing through the covered bridge over the Opequon, we see a fine stone dwelling house, the home of Mrs. Arbuckle. This is the old Barton homestead and the house, which was built in 1753 by Col. John Hite, was considered by far the finest dwelling house west of the Blue Ridge. STEPHENS CITY Stephens City, 8 miles from Winchester, ranks next to Winchester in age of establishment by law. This town was established by Act of Assembly, Sept. 1758, only six years after the establishment of Winchester. The town was settled almost entirely by Germans and the German language was in general use for 70 years. Many years ago the town was considerable of a manufacturing center, especially in wagons. The town was first founded by Peter Stephens, who came to Virginia with Joist Hite, in the year 1732. In 1775, two travelling Methodist preachers, John Hagerty and Richard Owens came over from East of the Blue Ridge and stopped over Sunday with Maj. Lewis Stephens. On Sunday morning notice was sent through the town and these two preachers delivered sermons. This was doubtless the first Methodist preaching ever heard in the Valley of Virginia. VAUCLUSE Vaucluse, 10 miles from Winchester is also known as Chrisman's Spring. There is very fine spring water here and on the bank just above the spring and near the pike are the old foundations of a house built by Jacob Chrisman, one of the first settlers in the valley and a son-in-law of Joist Hite. Hite and his three sons-in-law came here from York, Pa., in 1732. In 1794, the old log mill at this place was built and for 17 years previous to the building of this mill, a flax- seed-oil-mill stood on the same site. At Chrisman's Spring 19 took place the first camp meeting held in the Valley of Vir- ginia. From Winchester to this point, we have been driving on the very same ground over which Sheridan galloped to Cedar Creek battlefield but we will have to leave Gen. Sheridan be- fore we reach Middletown, 13 miles from Winchester, for it was between Stephens City and Middletown that Sheridan met his fleeing forces. It was between these two towns that Gen. Wright succeeded in stopping the retreat and was preparing to form his line of battle when Sheridan arrived. The Confederates, who, thinking that the stricken Federal troops were on their final retreat to Winchester, stopped to pillage the deserted camps, were attacked and utterly routed. Within an hour Sheridan had not only regained all of his own men that had been captured the same morning but he made prisoners of as many Confederates. When this Battle of Cedar Creek took place, Oct. 19, 1864, Sheridan's men were camped on Cedar Creek, just where the B. & O. Ry. crosses the creek. It was here that the Confederates, under Gen. Early, surprised the Federals in Camp, captured eighteen pieces of artillery, 1,500 prisoners and an immense amount of camp equipage. The rout of the Union men was complete but before the day was over Sheridan had turned the tide of battle and almost destroyed Early's wasted army. BELLE GROVE Gen. Sheridan and his staff made their headquarters on the Belle Grove farm, one of the most historic farms of the Shenandoah Valley. This farm was originally part of the Hite estate of 12,000 acres. It now contains 316 acres. It is at Meadow Mills P. O. about 15 miles from Winchester. It is about ii/^ miles from the Valley pike on the first road turning off the pike to the right South of Middletown. The Val- ley Pike crosses Cedar Creek just 15 miles from Winchester. Just across the creek, on the East side of the pike are the ruins of a mill. This mill was burned by Sheridan's soldiers. In the meadows just below the mill is where the calvary stam- pede took place. 20 On the ^^'est side of the road is a very nice brick house. This house, which was built in 1858, was used as a hospital during- the war. At one time the house and yard were full of the wounded and dying. The present kitchen table was used as an operating table. Once, when Ashby had his guns planted on the round hill back of the house, a premature shot sent a cannon ball through the upper part of the wall of this house. A wounded Confederate soldier, a boy of about 18 years , was secretly nursed and cared for in one of the upper rooms of the house, while the Union men were in possession of it. He was a Frederick County boy, named Rinker, and is still living. STRASBURG Strasburg, on the Valley Pike is 18 miles from ^^^inches- ter. Just back of this town the North Fork of the Shenandoah river passes around the North end of the JNIassanutten JMoun- tain from the top of which Generals Early and Gordon planned the attack of the Battle of Cedar Creek. CEDAR CREEK GRADE The Cedar Creek graded road extends from Hillman's toll-gate two miles south of Winchester to Marlboro, a small village on Cedar Creek. This was the first road leading to Winchester that was ever constructed. In 1745, Samuel Glass, grandfather of Col. Wm. W. Glass, Vance ]\Iarks, Paul Fro- man and others near Cedar Creek were appointed by the court, to lay out the best and nearest route to the County Seat, and mark the way through the big timbers. Nathaniel Cartmell and Paul Froman were appointed by the court as overseers of the road. About two miles from Hillman's toll-gate and four miles from AVinchester are the historic Glass farms. In 1736 Samuel Glass, one of the first settlers in the valley, came from Brainbridge, Ireland and settled on the "Rose Hill" farm. On this farm the two battles of Kernstown were fought. The "Rose Hill" farm has been in the possession of the Glass family continuously since 1736. A descendant of Sam- uel Glass, Col. \A ni. A\'. Glass, of "Glen Burnie" is the pres- 21 eiit owner of this farm. On M. Robert Glass' farm is a house used as a fort during Braddock's war but was never troubled by the Indians. The fort now forms a part of the present dwelling house. Five miles from Winchester, the Cedar Creek road crosses the Opequon near its source. At this little village of Opequon are several Springs which form the head of the beautiful and historic Opequon Creek. Near one of these springs is the old Cartmell home where seven generations of that name have lived. This home is the property now known as the Mathias Miller farm. Eleven miles from Winchester the Cedar Creek grade forks at the Casper Rinker home, now owned by Mr. North Clagett. The main road leads to Marlboro, two miles distant and the right hand road which turns down the hill crosses Cedar Creek about a half mile from where the roads forked. Just before crossing Foreman's Run there is a beautiful spring of clear mountain water. This spring at- tracts considerable attention in the neighborhood because of its intermittent character. Because of its ebbing and flowing at more or less regular intervals, many people are lead to the mistaken idea that this spring is in some way connected with the tides of the ocean. In the side of the little North Mountain just back of the spring is a subterranean reservoir which col- lects and holds the water supply for the spring. From this reservoir to the spring, the water flows through a syphon- shaped passage way. The water can flow out to the spring faster than it collects in the reservoir but it will not begin to flow until the water in the reservoir is on the same level with the highest point of the syphon-shaped outlet. The water in the reservoir, having reached this level, will continue to flow out to the spring until the level of the water in the reservoir is the same as the opening leading from it or until the reservoir is emptied if the opening be at the bottom. The water will then cease to flow out to the spring until the water being collected in the reservoir again reaches the highest level. This is the sim- ple explanation of the ebbing and flowing of the spring which is not and could not be connected with the tides of the ocean. 2.2 .' \ Where the road crosses the creek and about fifty yards down stream on the West bank is the natural curiosity called "Butterfly rocks." These rocks, which are of deep brown color, and of the slate species, contain the fossil remains of fish — a sort of broad, flat fish that were cjuite numerous at the time these rocks were forming". These fossil imprints are about the size of butterflies and look so much like butter- flies that this name has been applied to the rocks. The visitor to this rock invariably takes away with him a number of these fossils as souvenirs. Between Foreman's run and Cedar Creek stands a stone house which was used as a fort when the Indians were so numerous in these parts. About one mile further up Cedar Creek and b)^ the road- side is another of these stone forts. This house was built while Great Britain ruled this country and many relics of Indian warfare are in and about this house. The water from a spring near the road was brought through wooden pipes into the cellar of the house. The stone walls of the house are thick and substantial and the windows were small — port- holes through which many a savage foe has been shot by those early settlers who were so often in danger of losing their scalp and who. often had to fight fiercely in order to protect themselves and families from the cruel tortures and death at the hands of the savages. About one hundred yards or so from this house and right by the roadside is the Indian Rock, around which so many Indians were buried. Even now, by digging a little under ground near the rock some of the In- dian bones can be found. These points of interest are on the road leading to Mountain Falls and those who drive from Winchester to Capon Springs by the Cedar Creek grade route pass right by them. Coming back to the forks of the road at Mr. Clagett's and driving about two miles further on the main road to the left we arrive at the village of Marlboro, near which some of the first settlers in the valley had their homes and where it is claimed was the first church in the valley (Kernstown also makes this same claim. There are two churches in the village. The Baptist church is very old but the Presbyterian is the one claimed to have been the first. The present church was built on the foundation of this first church. In the south part of the village and on the north bank of Cedar Creek is where Zane's iron works and the old forge stood. Stephen's fort stood on this same spot before the iron works were constructed. On Turkey Run, about a mile west of Marlboro, is the farm known in colonial days as the "Smith Farm," and now owned by Mr. A. E. Robinson. It was on this farm that the five skeletons buried side by side were found and unearthed in April of the present year, 1908. The skeletons were found between the road and the fence, which indicates that they were placed there before the road was constructed. As the road is known to have been in use for nearly a century, it gives some idea of the remoteness of the burial of the now unknown subjects. Kerche- val, in his History of the Valley says "about the same time," about the year 1758, "the Indians forcibly entered the house of Mr. Young, who resided on the farm now owned by William Smith, Esq. Not more than a mile from Zane's old iron works, and killed several of his family. They took an infant, dashed its head against a rock, beat out its brains, and left it lying on the ground. Two of Young's daughters, pretty well grown, were carried off prisoners." Those slain by the Red men were buried by a Mr. Fry, who pursued the Indians and recaptured those whom they had taken prisoners. The burial place of the above-named vic- tims seems to have been entirely lost to all persons in the neighborhood. The general impression is that the skeletons are all that is mortal remaining of those of that remote and unlucky family, who perished by the tomahawk wielded by the treacherous and merciless Redskins, and who have been resting in that unknown grave for a century and a half, to be discovered at this late day. It is evident that the burials were hurriedly made as the bodies were not placed in coffins or boxes of any kind. Mr. Robinson re-buried the skeletons near the roadside at the place where they were found. He prepared an elaborate slab of stone which he placed in the bank to^ answer as the face or the front 24 of the grave or vault, as it might be called, and will place on it an appropriate inscription. He marked the spot with a monument of his own design and handiwork. Mr. Robinson says this spot, which is a lovely place for the tomb of these unknown dead, shall be held sacred and be cared for so long as it remains under his jurisdiction. HACKWOOD PARK FARM This farm which is located about two and a half miles north of Winchester on the Red Bud road has become noted by reason of the warfare on and around it. The building now used as a kitchen is said to have been used by General Wash- ington at one time. The same building was occupied by Un- ion officers during the late war, and used as a hospital on the 19th of September, 1864. Gen. Thomas and the soldiers of Vermont have erected a monument on this farm at a spot where a number of Vermont soldiers w^ere killed on the above date. Gen. John Smith, who first owned the farm, settled here in 1772. He died in 1837 in his 90th year and is buried in the family lot at Hackwood Park. BOYCE, MILLWOOD AND WINCHESTER TURNPIKE This Pike leaves Winchester by the southeast suburb and extends in a southeasterly direction. It crosses the Opequon about 5 miles from Winchester and the Shenandoah river 14 miles from Winchester. Three miles beyond the Shenandoah the road crosses the Blue Ridge at a point where the three counties, Clarke, Loudoun and Fauquier join. The old poplar tree that marked this point has recently been sawed down so that only the stump now remains to mark this junc- tion point. At the foot of the mountain on the East Side is the beautiful little village of Paris and Upperville is 4 miles further on. The road crosses the mountain through the fa- mous Ashby's gap. BOYCE Boyce is 9 miles from Winchester and at the intersection of the Millwood pike with the Norfolk and ^^'estern R. R. 25 About y^ miles from this village is "Saratoga," the home of Gen. Daniel Morgan. Saratoga was constructed in 1781. The house was built by the aid of Hessian prisoners who even quarried the stones and brought them in wheel barrows from near the Opequon Creek. About ly^ miles Northeast of Boyce and about three miles South of Berry ville is an object of great interest to all visitors in these regions. Old Chapel, one of the old landmarks of Clarke County, should properly be called Cunningham's Chapel, as it is the successor of one that was known by that name from the earliest settlement of the valley. The first structure was built of logs as were all the churches for many years afterwards but it is thought that a rude stone building replaced this first one. The land upon which the original chapel stood had come into the possession of Col. Nathaniel Burwell who gave two acres of land for the purpose of placing upon it a substantial stone edifice, which was completed in 1790 and this is the present "Old Chapel" so famous for its graveyard and antique surroundings. In the graveyard sur- rounding the chapel are buried hundreds of the leading citi- zens of their time who resided in this locality. Most of them are unmarked by any slab or stone. For over one hundred and fifty years this sacred spot has been used as a cemetery. John Easton Cooke is buried in this graveyard and Marquis Calmes, a French Hugenot nobleman, was a vestryman of the Cunning- ham chapel. He married an English lady. Miss Winnifred Walker. On a horizontal slab of granite, which is the oldest monument in the cemetery adjoining the "Old Chapel" appears the following inscription : "Here lies the body of Winnifred, the wife of Major Marquis Calmes. They were joined in wed- lock 26 years and had six children. She was a loving, vir- tuous and industrious wife, a tender mother and kind mis- tress. She departed this life Oct. 6th, Anno Domini 1751." The "Old Chapel" is constructed of native limestone. The interior of the chapel is very interesting. A padlock fastens the ancient door and its great iron hinges creak as it is moved. In the front of the room is a small platform upon which stands the 26 reading desk. An hexag-onal pulpit stands on the left of the platform and over it is the sounding board. A small robing room stands in the corner near by. To the right of the pulpit is a tablet to the memory of Bishop Meade, who for many years was assistant rector and rector of the chapel. Over the rear entrance and extending half way across the interior is a servant's gallery, where the drivers and attendants of the grand folk of the olden times could hear the Word expounded and participate in the services. This gallery was reached by a separate door from the main entrance. WHITE POST Five miles South of Boyce is the village of White Post so called from the fact that Lord Fairfax here set up a post which he painted white and on which was painted directions for going to Greenway Court and Cunningham's chapel. A little more than a mile South of here is "Greenway Court," where Lord Fairfax built him a home and where he died after living here 32 years. Fairfax reserved 10,000 acres for this manor. The old trees that stood in front of the mansion and are said to have been planted by Fairfax are still standing and the fllagstones are still in the yard. The old barn and the house used by Fairfax and Washington as an office are still standing. In this house Fairfax held court. "Greenway Court" is six miles from Boyce and fifteen miles from Win- chester going by way of Boyce. The road between Boyce and Greenway Court has recently been macadamized. Fair- fax worshiped at Old Chapel eight miles from his home and the road leading to the chapel is a direct route between these . two places. From Winchester, we may drive on the Front Royal road to the double toll-gate, turn to the left here and thence by White Post to Greenway Court. The distance this way is about the same or possibly a little less than by way of Boyce and the road is very good. MILLWOOD Millwood is a little more than a mile East of Boyce. A mill was established here as early as 1760 and it was known 27 as Biirwell's Mill at a very early day. This mill is supposed to have stood on the site of the present mill which was built many years ago. The "Carter Hall" farm is near this village. Three miles from here and near the Shenandoah river is the "Vineyard Plantation." This was owned by Marquis Calmes and it was here that was planted the first vineyard in the Shenandoah Valley. Marquis Calmes died in 1751 and was buried on this plantation. His wife is buried in Old Chapel graveyard and the slab over her grave is the oldest monument in this cemetery. BERRYVILLE AND WINCHESTER TURNPIKE This pike crosses the Opequon Creek five miles east of Winchester. On the east bank of the creek at this point is a fine limestone spring. Just across the creek on the west bank Mr. Joseph Carter settled in 1743. Very near Mr. Car- ter's residence was a beautiful grove of forest timber and this grove was, at the time of Mr. Carter's first settlement, a favorite camping ground of the Indians. Sometimes two or three hundred Indians at a time would assemble and re- main for several weeks together. Berryville is 10 miles from Winchester and it was near here that Daniel Morgan had his home before he built "Sara- toga." When Morgan was a child his parents settled in what is now the northern edge of Warren County but Morgan came to Berryville to live when he was a young man. This home was known as "Soldier's Rest" and while he lived at this place, tradition states that he contributed largely in conferring on the little village the name Battle Town. Morgan lived at this place until he built "Saratoga" in 1781. The lower floor of the main building of Morgan's mansion consists of two large rooms divided by a wide hall crossed at right angles by a narrow one, which leads into an immense apartment with many windows, several doors and a huge, old-fashioned fire-place. There is a mantle piece that is said to have been brought from England. At the time of its being- placed it was considered an elaborate piece of work, and the 28 neighbors gathered in to see it. It is of pine wood and in excellent preservation. About 100 3^ards from the house is a magnificent willow tree under which the old hero of Cowpens doubtless often re- clined and drank in the fine scenery round about. About 5 miles East of Berryville the pike crosses the Shenandoah River and about three miles further on we cross the Blue Ridge through Snicker's gap and come to the little village of Bluemont. A branch of the Southern Ry. connects this village with Washington City, 57, miles away. A short distance from the Bluemont gap, is the "Bear's Den." From this point the view over the Valley is a grand one. As far as the eye can reach the most enchanting landscape presents it- self. The silvery streams in Serpentine coils wind in and out for miles away while the mighty Shenandoah lies just below us. In the far distance mountain upon mountain seems piled one upon the other. This is the same view that burst upon the enraptured sight of Gen. Spotswood when on Sep- tember 5, 1716 he first looked upon this beautiful valley. CHARLES TOWN, W. VA. A fine turnpike and also the Norfolk and Western Ry. connects Berryville with Charles Town. Geo. Washington's brother Charles and his eldest whole brother Samuel came to this county about 1750. The town was named after Charles Washington, who owned the land upon which Charles Town is laid out. Samuel owned the track of land called Harewood, upon which he built, about 1750, the stone building now standing. ■It was at Charles Town that John Brown and his companions were tried and hanged. DAVENPORT FARM, CHARLES TOWN, W. VA. This magnificent farm of 1,200 acres was purchased from Charles Washington in 1793. by Abram Davenport, whose descendants have owned it ever since that time. This farm is one of the most scientific and best managed farms in the Shenandoah Valley. The Davenport farm seemed to be the 29 objective point of every army on both sides for a place of encampment when passing through the country, and by the time the war closed there was not a fence on it. On this farm are the picturesque ruins of the old Nor- borne Church. These old ruins may be seen from the B. & O. Ry. Six miles East of Charles Town, Wm. and John Vestall settled at a very early date. While they were building the stone house that is still standing, they were attacked by In- dians and driven across the Shenandoah to the mountains. When they returned they brought a yellowish stone from across the river, placed it in the wall and this marks the point where they had left off building in consequence of the attack. This place is on the Shenandoah river and it was here that the first iron works west of the Blue Ridge was erected in 1742. The ruins of the "Old Bloomery" are still to be seen. CAPON SPRINGS There are many fine springs near Winchester but Capon is one of the largest resorts in the Valley. About six hundred guests are entertained here each season. This resort is 22 miles from Winchester and by driving out the Northwestern grade 12 miles and turning to the left at Gore P. O., we pass Rock Enon Springs, six miles this side of Capon. If we return to Winchester from Capon by the Wardensville and Cedar Creek grades, the distance is also about 22 miles and by this route we pass the Cold Spring, Pembroke Springs and Coal Mine Spring. When we reach the top of the Great North Mountain about three miles this side of Capon Springs we may tie our horses and walk up to Eagle Rock, from which eleva- tion we behold a scene not soon to be forgotten. From this point Winchester, Kernstown, Middletown, Strasburg and other towns and villages in the valley can be picked out. We can see the Blue Ridge on the East, the Alleghanies on the West and numerous hills and valleys between. 30 FAIRVIEW ACADEMY, WASHINGTON, D. C. L. ADOLPH RICHARDS, M. A., M. S., PRINCIPAL The Fairview Academy is a school where men and women regardless of age and preliminary education, receive instruc- tion and preparation for almost any position they may wish to fill. The Faculty of the school is composed of men who hold post-graduate degrees from such universities as the Johns Hopkins, Harvard and University of Virginia. These men give personal attention to each student and aim to give the most thorough preparation for the position the student wishes to fill. We give special preparation for entrance to the Classified Civil Service of the United States and those who have charge of this instruction have held some of the best positions in the government service. Entrance to the Civil Service can be secured only by passing a rigid competitive examination. By Act of Congress, the Classified Service has been ex- tended from a few thousand positions in the beginning, until it now includes more than 100,000 individual positions. In 1896, President Cleveland placed 27,563 positions, previously unclassified, in the Classified Service. Since there are thous- ands of these positions, there are many changes in the working force and many vacancies to be filled at all times. Our students are kept informed of all changes which interest or affect them. "Uncle Sam" is a good paymaster. He pays the highest wages, pays regularly, and his employees are not affected by "hard times." There are thousands of people who would be glad to hold one of these positions in the Government Service, but who do not know how to secure an appointment. We not only help the applicant to pass the examination, but to select from the scores of examinations given by the Commission, the one best suited to his attainments, and the one which will lead 31 to an early appointment to a position paying a good salary and offering the best chance of promotion. For those stndents who live outside of Washington and are not able to attend the classes at the school we have arranged correspondence courses. The tuitions for these courses are very reasonable. Any de- sired information about these courses will be gladly furnished on request. The school prepares applicants for the entrance examina- tions to the West Point Military Academy, to the Annapolis Naval Academy and for entrance into any of the leading Un- iversities. Instruction in the higher college courses is given to those students who have had sufficient preliminary training. The Academy is open day and night throughout the year and the student may enter at any time. We expect each student under our care to work hard and to make marked progress within a short time. The atmosphere of the school is one of hard work and we do not want any student who is not willing to apply himself or herself seriously to the work. In the busi- ness department, we aim to so train our students that they are able not only to secure good positions but to hold these posi- tions after they are secured, and to give satisfaction to the employer. Any further information about the courses may be had by writing to the Principal of the Academy. 32 k r-'^ LIBRARY OF CONGRESS II Hill lliimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii 014 432 909 f*^t