Class 
 Book 
 
 COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 
 
PRICE TWENTY-FIVE CENTS. 
 
 TH E 
 
 ^ORTH SHORE 
 
 OF 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS BAY. 
 
 TWEI.FIH KDITION 
 
 An Illustrated Guide 
 
 romarblehead, salem, bevef^ly, manchester-by- 
 
 the-sea, maginolia, gloucesier, rockport, 
 
 peabody, wenham and hamilton. 
 
 BY 
 B. D. HILL AND W. S. NEVINS, 
 
 SALEM, MASS. 
 1890. 
 
 Copyrighted, 1890, by B. D. Hill and W. S. Nevins. 
 
MY GOODS, CAEPETUGS. 
 
 LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S 
 
 BOOTS AND SHOES, 
 
 Three Floors. 
 
 First-Class Light. 
 
 Our store is not only the best lighted, but 
 contains the largest assortment of new goods in 
 the city. 
 
 Essex and Washington Sts., 
 
 Endicott Buildings. SALEM. 
 
SCALE OF MILeS 
 
 ISSUED BV PASSENOER DEPARTMENT BOSTON S. MAINE RAILROAD. 
 
 R. A. Supply Co., Eng'r 
 
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 Bay \W?Lacoma J^ 
 
 
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AN 
 
 ILLUSTRATED GUIDE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 NORTH SHORI 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS BAY 
 
 / BY ^ 
 
 BENJ D HILL & WINFIELD ^NEVINS 
 
 SALEM PRESS PUBLISHING AND PRINTING CO 
 
 SALEM MASS 
 
 1890 
 
INTRODUCTORY. 
 
 Stranger, if thou hast learned a truth which needs 
 No school of long experience, that this world 
 Is full of guilt and misery, and hast seen 
 Enough of all its sorrows, crimes, and cares, 
 To tire thee of it, enter this wild wood — 
 And view the haunts of nature. The calm shade 
 Shall bring a kindred calm, and the sweet breeze 
 That makes the green leaves dance, shall waft a balm 
 To thy sick heart. 
 
 \ Bryant. 
 
 The first edition of the North Shore was is- 
 sued in 1879 ai^d numbered 2,000 copies. A 
 second edition of 2,000 copies was issued a month 
 later. Editions of 3,500 each have been issued 
 annually since then. The object of an annual 
 publication is to keep pace with the rapid growth 
 of the North Shore. We do not make a new 
 book every year, but so revise the previous edi- 
 tion as to include the changes and additions 
 which are constantly being made. We believe 
 the result has been in accord with the spirit of 
 an encouraging note, written by the late James 
 T. Field, in the spring of 1879, when he said, 
 "I cannot but think such a work as you suggest 
 
 (3) 
 
4 INTBODUGTOBY. 
 
 would be a valuable addition to our local litera- 
 ture, and I hope you will find it a congenial 
 task. Cape Ann is beautiful enough to warrant 
 such an undertaking I am sure." We trust it 
 does not seem self-laudatory to point with pride 
 to the growth of the North Shore since this work 
 was first published, and it is hoped that enlarge- 
 ment and improvement will continue, until the 
 coast from Boston to Bay View is one long city 
 by the sea. We believe the beauties and attrac- 
 tions of this section have not been overdrawn, 
 but are all that this book represents. Particular 
 attention has been given to the historical por- 
 tions of the work with a view to the greatest pos- 
 sible accuracy, and every statement has been 
 carefully verified by comparison with the best 
 authorities. 
 
 Salem, June J i8go. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 IN HISTORIC SALEM. 
 
 "The chill of New England sunshine 
 
 Lay on the kitchen floor; 
 The wild New England north wind 
 
 Came rattling at the door, 
 And by the wide old fire-place, 
 
 Deep in her cushioned chair. 
 Lay back an ancient woman, 
 
 With shining snow-white hair. 
 
 The devils wrought their wicked will 
 
 On matron and on maid. 
 "Thou hast bewitched us!" cried they all 
 
 But not a word she said. 
 They fastened chains about her feet, 
 
 And carried her away; 
 For many days in Salem jail 
 
 Alone and ill she lay. 
 
 • • • • • • 
 
 (5) 
 
THE NOBTH SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 They hanged this weary woman there, 
 
 Like any felon stout ; 
 Her white hairs on the cruel rope 
 
 Were scattered all about." 
 
 Death of Goochj Nurse. 
 
 Salem is not widely known as a summer resort, 
 although "The Neck" is indeed an attractive spot 
 during the warm season and one much patron- 
 ized. But Salem is the centre of a long stretch 
 of sea-coast of unsurpassed attractions and pop- 
 ularity, while its inland surroundings are growing 
 in summer population. This city, too, has at- 
 tractions, summer and winter, for those who de- 
 light to visit places connected with events of great 
 historical interest. These localities are described 
 in the forthcoming pages with sufficient fulness to 
 enable the visitor to understand them. Salem, in 
 conjunction with Peabody, is the greatest leather 
 manufacturing community in the east. It has 
 also a great cotton mill and many minor indus- 
 tries. The opportunities for manufacturing and 
 other business enterprises are unsurpassed. The 
 city is in frequent and rapid communication with 
 Boston and New York and has a safe harbor of 
 fairly good depth of water. Its importance, how- 
 
SALEM. 
 
8 THE NOBTH SIIOBE GUIDE. 
 
 ever, in connection with the other resorts of the 
 North Shore is that it is the centre, the distribut- 
 ing point, for all the smaller towns. Its great 
 stores, only exceeded in size and equipment by 
 those of Boston, enable the summer resident to 
 supply his wants without going to the New Eng- 
 land metropolis. It is, too, the seat of some of 
 the noblest scientific and educational institutions 
 in the country. 
 
 A great many people suppose Salem is noted 
 only as the place where witches were once hung. 
 They seem to forget that it was the pioneer in 
 opening some of the ports of the Orient to Ameri- 
 can trade which has been the source whence 
 many Americans have drawn substantial fortunes. 
 So, too, Salem is the birthplace of the man who 
 first gave American letters and hterature a world- 
 wide reputation — Hawthorne. 
 
 Arriving in Salem over the Boston and Maine 
 railway the visitor is landed in a station which, al- 
 though not particularly attractive within, is, on the 
 exterior, the finest architectural structure on the 
 line of the road. It has two imposing granite 
 towers on the eastern end with a massive stone 
 archway. Trains depart from this station to Bos- 
 ton, to Newburyport, Portsmouth and the north 
 and east ; to Marblehead ; to Lawrence ; to Low- 
 
SALEM. 9 
 
 ell, and to Cape Ann. On the northern side of 
 the city is an old wooden station, whence trains 
 depart for Boston over the South Reading branch, 
 and for Lowell over the Salem and Lowell branch. 
 
 Salem Neck, a peninsula lying to the east- 
 ward of the city, is divided in local nomenclature 
 into "The Willows" and ''Juniper Point." The 
 former is a well-ordered and well-kept public re- 
 sort with pavilions, booths, refreshment saloons, 
 flower-beds, fountains, bathing houses and all that 
 goes to make up a popular resort. Horse cars 
 from town land people on the very platform of 
 the large pavilion, with dining halls, public and 
 private dining rooms, lunch-counters, smoking 
 rooms, dance hall and broad piazzas, all sur- 
 rounded by a handsome park made beautiful by 
 trees, flowers and fountains. 
 
 Mr. Daniel B. Gardner of Salem, in 1875, pur- 
 chased that section then known as the Allen farm, 
 now known as Juniper Point, containing about 
 thirty acres, and laid it out in streets. This set- 
 tlement contains about a hundred houses, and in 
 July and August the population numbers nearly 
 a thousand. The locality is healthful, pleasant 
 and comfortable. The ocean in front, and a salt 
 water cove in the rear, purify the atmosphere and 
 temper the air. Across the cove is Winter Isl- 
 
lO THE NORTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 and, the property of the Plummer Farm school, 
 save the U. S. government reservation and a small 
 section bordering on the cove, belonging to Dr. 
 G. A. Osborne of Peabody. On the government 
 reservation is a lighthouse and house for the 
 keeper ; also the ruins of Fort Pickering. This 
 fort was built in 1643 ^^^^ known as Fort William, 
 in 1794 it was ceded to the U. S., and Nov. i, 
 1799, the name was changed to Fort Pickering. 
 It was rebuilt in 18 14 and in 1862. The frigate 
 Essex, one of the most historic ships of the Amer- 
 ican navy, was built here, near the fort in 1799. 
 
 As we approach the Willows we pass on the left 
 the city farm, the almshouse, built in 18 15, and an 
 insane asylum, built in 1884 ; and on the right the 
 Hathorne farm, including Hollingsworth hill and 
 Point of Rocks. On the highest elevation to the 
 left, are the ruins of Fort Lee first built in 1690, 
 and rebuilt in 18 14, and again in 1862. 
 
 The Court Houses on Federal street, corner 
 of Washington, are three in number. The first is 
 the old stone building, built in 1841. It is a solid 
 structure with immense stone pillars at both ends. 
 In this building at present are the offices of the 
 register of deeds (C. S. Osgood), judge of pro- 
 bate (Hon. R. E. Harmon), register of probate 
 (J. T. Mahoney), and the probate court-room. 
 
SALEM. II 
 
 The second court house is a plain brown structure 
 of no architectural beauty. In this, sessions of the 
 supreme and superior courts are held. A mag- 
 nificent portrait of Chief Justice Shaw, by Hunt, 
 adorns this court room. In the rear of this and 
 extending to Bridge street is the third building of 
 the group. It was begun early in 1887 and oc- 
 cupied in January, 1 889. This building is of brick 
 with red sandstone trimmings. It is surmounted 
 by a large tower, from the top of which a fine 
 view of the city and the surrounding country is 
 obtained. On the first floor are the offices of the 
 clerk of courts (Dean Peabody, Esq.), county 
 treasurer (E. Kendall Jenkins), and the county 
 commissioners (Messrs. J. W. Raymond, E. B, 
 Bishop and D. W. Low). On the second floor, 
 reached by an iron stairway, is a court room. It 
 is finished in the style known as colonial, with 
 oak-panelled wainscoting and oaken beams over- 
 head. The ceiling consists of a series of arches 
 and is beautifully tinted. The law library is a 
 striking room. The finish is in oak. The floor 
 is brick and the ceiling a double roof of glass. In 
 the rear is a massive fire-place and chimney piece, 
 seen through an imposing arch. The walls are 
 well lined with book cases filled with law books. 
 Around the balcony are portraits of some of the 
 
12 THE NORTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 men who have shed lustre on the bench and bar 
 of Massachusetts. They are Otis P. Lord, Justice 
 Putnam, Rufus Choate, Judge George F. Choate, 
 Stephen B. Ives, jr., Caleb Gushing, Leverett 
 Saltonstall, Samuel Sewall, Ghief Justice Sewall, 
 Ebenezer Mosley, and Judge J. G. Perkins. In 
 the clerk of courts office below may be seen some 
 very old documents including those pertaining to 
 the witchcraft trials in 1692. Here, also, are kept 
 the pins alleged to have been used by the so- 
 called witches to torment their victims. 
 
 The county of Essex maintains a jail and house of 
 correction in Salem. These institutions combined 
 under one roof are located on St. Peter street, 
 which has been the locality of some sort of prison 
 for many generations. 
 
 The City Hall, a very plain but substantial gran- 
 ite structure, is on Washington street, near Essex. 
 Salem was settled by Roger Gonant and his fol- 
 lowers from Cape Ann in 1626. John Endicott 
 came over from England as governor of the col- 
 ony in 1628. Jealousies arose between the first 
 settlers and these later comers which were not 
 settled until June, 1629, when, in honor of the 
 peace thus declared, the name of the settlement 
 was changed from Naumkeag to Salem. The 
 town of Salem for a while included the territory 
 
SALEM. 13 
 
 now comprised in Marblehead, Beverly, Man- 
 chester, Wen ham, Hamilton, Peabody, Danvers, 
 Middleton and part of Topsfield. 
 
 As a town, Salem was incorporated on June 
 24, 1629, and the city of Salem was incorporated 
 on March 23, 1836, with Leverett Saltonstall as 
 mayor. The first city government was inaugu- 
 rated in the Tabernacle Church. The City Hall 
 was first occupied on May 31, 1838. The interior 
 of the building is equally plain with the exterior. 
 
 The aldermanic chamber contains a full-length 
 portrait of Washington, copied from the Stuart 
 by Frothingham and presented to the city by 
 Hon. A. A. Low of Brooklyn, a smaller portrait 
 of Leverett Saltonstall, one of ex-Mayor Oliver 
 and a picture of General Grant. 
 
 In the common council chamber is another 
 Washington by Jane Stuart, a portrait of Lafay- 
 ette by Charles Osgood and one of Gen. P. H. 
 Sheridan by C. C. Redmond ; also the Indian 
 deed of the territory of ancient Naumkeag. 
 
 The Town House in Market Square was 
 built in 1816 at a cost of ^12,000 and was used 
 by the town and city until 1838. The lower por- 
 tion is used as a market. The upper floor is used 
 for pubKc meetings and in winter by the evening 
 school. The first use of this hall was to receive 
 
14 THE NOBTH SBOBE GUIDE. 
 
 TOWN HALL AND MARKET. 
 
SALEM. 15 
 
 President Monroe on July 8, 181 7. The build- 
 ing stands on a portion of the land formerly com- 
 prised in the beautiful garden of Elias Hasket 
 Derby. His house faced Essex street and the 
 garden extended to South river. 
 
 The Custom House is on Derby street at the 
 head of Derby wharf. It is a two-story brick 
 building with warehouse in the rear, and was built 
 in 1819. The customs collections in Salem are 
 very meagre now, from $7,000 to $10,000 a 
 year. Formerly they were very large, an ex- 
 tensive trade being carried on with foreign ports 
 in all parts of the world. The time was when 
 Salem had the most extensive commerce of any 
 American port. During the quarter ending with 
 December, 1807, the duties at this port amount- 
 ed to $5 1 1,000. In those days Derby wharf was 
 lined with merchant vessels from different ports of 
 the old world, sometimes two or three deep. Mill- 
 ions on millions of dollars' worth of goods have 
 been landed here. The old wharf is now fast 
 passing away, the sides crumbling and warehouses 
 falling. The eagle over the Custom House is that 
 described by Hawthorne in "The Scarlet Let- 
 ter" as "an enormous specimen of the American 
 eagle, with outspread wings, a shield before her 
 breast, and if I recollect aright, a bunch of in- 
 
1 6 THE NOBTH SBOBE GUIDE. 
 
 SALEM ATHEN^UM — PLUMMEK HALL. 
 
SALE3L 17 
 
 termingled thunderbolts and barbed arrows in 
 each claw." 
 
 Hawthorne was surveyor of the port of Salem 
 from 1846 to 1849. Here, he tells us, he found 
 the manuscript of ''The Scarlet Letter." 
 
 Plummer Hall, on Essex street, is the seat of 
 the Salem Athenasum library and reading room. 
 The building was built from a fund of ^30,000 
 left to the society by Miss Caroline Plummer. 
 The library contains about 21,000 volumes and 
 has a well-stocked reading room. In the main 
 hall are hung some rare old portraits of various 
 celebrities. The Athenaeum occupies the upper 
 floor of the building. The lower hall is occupied 
 by a portion of the library of the Essex Institute. 
 The libraries of the Essex Agricultural Society 
 and of the Southern District Medical Society are 
 deposited in Plummer Hall. In the rear of 
 Plummer Hall is the first edifice occupied by the 
 First Church Society, built in 1636. The Athe- 
 naeum library is open from 9 a. m. to 5 p. m., 6 
 in summer. 
 
 The Essex Institute is next to the Athenae- 
 um. This is one of the most important educa- 
 tional institutions in the country. It was formed 
 in 1848 by a union of the Essex County Natural 
 History Society and the Essex Historical Society. 
 
i8 IHE NORTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 KSSEX INSTITUTE. 
 
SALEM. 19 
 
 Its objects are general and varied. Perhaps the 
 most important is that of local historical dis- 
 coveries and the preservation of everything re- 
 lating to Essex county history, and especially of 
 the towns in this vicinity. The Institute library 
 numbers more than thirty thousand bound vol- 
 umes, and one hundred thousand pamphlets and 
 volumes of periodicals and newspapers. Every 
 book, manuscript, pamphlet, catalogue, circular, 
 etc., pertaining to local history, finds a welcome 
 here ; also, directories, state and municipal reg- 
 isters and records, not only in the county, but 
 throughout the world. A small rear room, on 
 the first floor, contains a rich museum of curiosi- 
 ties from different parts of the world called the 
 " historical collection. " The rooms are open 
 from 9 A. M. to 5 p. M., 6 in summer. 
 
 The Peabody Academy of Science is on 
 the opposite side of Essex street at the head of 
 St. Peter's. George Peabody, in 1867, g^^^ 
 ^140,000 ''for the promotion of science and use- 
 ful knowledge in the county of Essex," naming 
 nine eminent gentlemen as trustees. Of this 
 sum ^40,000 was paid for the East India Marine 
 hall and the valuable museum of that society. 
 The remainder constitutes a permanent invest- 
 ment. The collections of the Essex Institute 
 
20 THE NOB TH SHOBE G UIDE. 
 
SALEM. 2T 
 
 and East India Marine Society were then united, 
 forming one of the best collections in this coun- 
 try. 
 
 The East India Marine Hall was dedicated in 
 1825. President John Quincy Adams delivered 
 the address. The addition known as Academy 
 Hall was built in 1885. On the ground floor is 
 a beautiful lecture and concert auditorium. In 
 the upper hall is a portion of the collections of 
 the museum. The collection of spears and 
 spear heads, battle axes and other implements of 
 ancient warfare is probably unsurpassed. The 
 walls of the room are adorned with portraits of 
 old Salem shipmasters and merchants and of 
 Salem ships. It would be impossible in a work 
 of this kind to attempt to name even the " more 
 important" treasures in this building. Suffice to 
 say that not only are the botany, mineralogy, zool- 
 ogy, geology and natural history of Essex county 
 and the country well represented, but here are 
 some of the richest treasures from Africa, India, 
 China, Japan, Korea, Europe, South America, 
 and Mexico. The museum is open from 9 a.m. 
 to 5 p. M., 6 in summer. 
 
 The Salem Public Library is located in the 
 mansion, corner of Essex and Monroe streets, 
 
2 2 THE NOB TH SHOBE G UIDE. 
 
 formerly the home of Capt. John Bertram. The 
 estate was given to the city by the heirs of the 
 captain in 1887. It has been remodelled on the 
 inside for library purposes. The style of finish 
 is colonial. On the first floor are kept most of 
 the more popular circulating books. On the 
 second floor is a large reading-room, supplied 
 with the leading newspapers, magazines and re- 
 views ; also a library of reference books. On the 
 third floor is shelving for a large number of books. 
 Here, too, are quiet rooms with all the appliances 
 for the use of students. The accommodations on 
 the lower floor are for about 1 7,000 volumes, and 
 the capacity of the whole building is 70,000 vol- 
 umes. After the expiration of twenty-five years 
 the trustees may build on the surrounding land. 
 
 Witchcraft.— Probably nothing in the history 
 of Salem, not even its past commercial glory or 
 being the birthplace of Hawthorne, will be re- 
 membered as long as the story of the witchcraft 
 persecutions. 
 
 This delusion was not of Salem origin as many 
 people have been led to believe. It is doubtless 
 true that it had as little foundation here as any- 
 where and was pursued as wickedly and madly. 
 As early as 1485, forty- one aged women were 
 
SALEM. 
 
 23 
 
 burnt in Burlia on similar charges. One inquisi- 
 tion in Piedmont condemned one hundred per- 
 sons, and in Ravensburg forty-eight ; five hun- 
 dred were executed in Geneva in 15 15. English 
 history, from the time of Henry VIII down to 
 
 
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 KEI3ECCA NOURSE HOUSE, DANVEUS, MASS, 
 
 1 71 2, is filled with accounts of trials and execu- 
 tions for alleged witchcraft manifestations. As 
 late as 1645, iiinety persons were hanged under 
 these charges, and previous to that time the usual 
 punishment was burning. Nor was Salem the 
 first town in the new world where a belief in the 
 
24 THE NOETH SHORE GVIDE. 
 
 superstition took root. Cases occurred in Charles- 
 town and Boston as early as 1648 and 1688. 
 The records of the courts at Salem show that 
 from 1652 to 1692 numbers of persons were 
 charged in one form and another with being be- 
 witched. Several were convicted and executed. 
 The delusion of 1692 did not start in Salem 
 proper, but in the Salem Village parish, now 
 Danvers Centre ; of the nineteen persons executed 
 for witchcraft only three belonged in Salem ; of 
 the eleven condemned but not executed, not one 
 lived in Salem town ; and of the large number, 
 probably two hundred and fifty, who were ac- 
 cused, ten only belonged in Salem, while twenty- 
 eight lived in Salem Village and forty or more in 
 Andover. Not only did the delusion begin in 
 the Village but nearly all the complaints came 
 from there, even of those living as far away as 
 Boston, and Wells, Maine. Very few people of 
 the town of Salem had any part in the business. 
 Most of the preliminary examinations were held 
 in the Salem Village church or at Lieut. Inger- 
 soU's tavern in the Village. A few were exam- 
 ined in the Salem church or at Beadle's tavern 
 on Essex street. These examinations were mostly 
 before John Hathorne and Jonathan Corwin, as- 
 sistants or magistrates ; occasionally Stoughton, 
 
SALEM. 25 
 
 or Daiiforth or some other official sat with them. 
 The trials before the Commission of Oyer and 
 Terminer and a jury were held in a court house 
 which stood in Washington street about opposite 
 the present city hall. In all, about two hundred 
 and fifty persons were accused of witchcraft, in- 
 cluding nine children. Nineteen were executed 
 for witchcraft, Giles Corey was pressed to death 
 for "standing mute " when arraigned, and Sarah 
 Osborn and Ann Foster died in prison from ex- 
 posure and ill treatment. Witchcraft was a crime 
 recognized by all nations down to 1692 and later. 
 So far as we know no one doubted that there was 
 such a thing. The only difference of view was 
 as to what constituted witchcraft. In order to 
 judge fairly of the prosecutions in New England 
 and particularly in Essex county, we must judge 
 from the vantage ground of 1692 not of 1890. 
 The trials here were conducted in accordance 
 with rules laid down by Chief Justice Hale and 
 other able English jurists. The ministers of New 
 England, and especially of Boston, under the 
 lead of the Mathers, Willard and others urged 
 the judges to great caution in the admission of 
 purely spectral evidence, but their advice was little 
 heeded. Cotton Mather believed prayer would 
 
26 THE NOBTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 be more effective than hanging, in ridding the 
 land of witches. 
 
 Gallows Hill or Witch Hill is off Boston 
 street and may be reached by horsecars to Nich- 
 ols street. Here nineteen persons were hung for 
 alleged witchcraft. Bridget Bishop was executed 
 on Friday, June lo, 1692 ; Rebecca Nurse, Sa- 
 rah Goode, Susanna Martin, Elizabeth Howe and 
 Sarah Wildes on Tuesday, July 19; John Wil- 
 lard. Rev. George Burroughs, George Jacobs, 
 sen., Martha Currier and John Proctor on Friday, 
 August 19 ; Martha Corey (wife of Giles Corey), 
 Ann Pudeator, Alice Parker, Mary Easty (sister 
 of Rebecca Nurse), Margaret Scott, Wilmot Reed, 
 Samuel Wardwell and Mary Parker, on Thursday, 
 Sept. 22. 
 
 The Roger Williams House, as it is called, 
 is on the corner of Essex and North streets. 
 This house is believed to have been built about 
 1635. Roger Williams lived here in Jan., 1636, 
 when he fled from the intolerant Puritans who 
 would send him back to England because of his 
 free thinking and free speaking. The house came 
 into the possession of Jonathan Corwin, one of 
 the witchcraft judges, in 1674. There is a tra- 
 dition that grand jury examinations of parties or 
 
SALEM. 
 
 27 
 
 witnesses, or conferences of the court regarding 
 witchcraft prosecutions, were held in this house 
 in 1692. Hence it is sometimes called the Witch 
 house. 
 
 THE OLD FIRST CHURCH 1634. 
 
 The First Church, with a house of worship 
 corner of Essex and Washington streets, is the 
 most historic religious institution in New Eng- 
 land. Here was erected the first church build- 
 ing in Salem, about 1634, and here on this spot 
 
28 THE NORTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 has generation after generation worshipped, in 
 four successive edifices. Here, on July 20, 1629, 
 and August 6, of the same year, was formed the 
 first independent church organization in the new 
 world. Other church organizations existed in 
 America prior to this, but they were all effected 
 in the old world. The history of the First church 
 at Salem is a part of the history of American civ- 
 ilization. It constitutes the most important 
 chapter in the ecclesiastical history of the new 
 world. On July 20, 1629, Samuel Skelton was 
 chosen pastor, and Francis Higginson, teacher. 
 On August 6, following, deacons and ruling elders 
 were chosen, and the organization completed. 
 The church auditorium is on the second floor. 
 
 The East Church (Unitarian), Washington 
 Square, opposite the Common, the first branch of 
 the First church, organized in 1718. The front 
 is imposing, with its two octagonal towers, and 
 the interior is the best specimen of pure gothic 
 architecture to be found in Salem. 
 
 The Tabernacle Church, corner Washing- 
 ton and Federal streets, was founded in 1735 by 
 an unhappy division in the First church. Rev. 
 Samuel Fiske, the first pastor, seceded from the 
 First with more than half the members. In 1769 
 the church government became Presbyterian, but 
 
SALEM. 29 
 
 resumed Congregationalism in 1 784. The pres- 
 ent house was built in 1854. Rev. DeWitt S. 
 Clark is pastor. 
 
 The North Church is on Essex street, be- 
 tween North and Beckford. A branch of the 
 First, in 1770. The first house of worship stood 
 on the corner of Lynde and North streets, where 
 Dr. C. A. Carlton's house now stands. It was 
 there that young Dr. Barnard, then pastor, on a 
 Sunday morning in 1775, dismissed the congre- 
 gation that they might go down to North bridge 
 and prevent the progress of Col. Leslie. Rev. 
 E. B. Willson has been pastor of this church more 
 than a quarter of a century. 
 
 St. Peter's (Episcopal), corner St. Peter and 
 Brown streets. This was the fourth church es- 
 tablished in Salem. The church of England was 
 long bitterly opposed. As late as 1777 the legis- 
 lature affixed a penalty of ^100 to the "crime" 
 of reading the Episcopal service. The tower of 
 this church contains the only chime of bells in 
 the city. 
 
 Wesley Church, on North, near Essex street, 
 is the latest and best addition to the church ar- 
 chitecture of the city. The corner stone was laid 
 on July 31, 1888, and the handsome edifice dedi- 
 cated on April 25, 1889. It was built during 
 
30 JHE NORTH SHOBE GUIDE, 
 
 PKESEM' hOKlH CIIUKCII. 
 
SALEM. 31 
 
 the pastorate of Rev. T. W. Bishop. Rev. J. M. 
 Leonard is the present pastor. The architecture 
 is mainly Gothic, while the stained windows, 
 eleven of them handsome memorial windows, 
 add to the beauty of the church without and 
 within. It is entered through artistically con- 
 structed cloisters. The auditorium will seat about 
 five hundred people and the chapel two hun- 
 dred and fifty additional. 
 
 The Universalist Church, on Rust street, 
 has the largest auditorium of any church in the 
 city. During the year 1889, a chapel was built 
 between Rust and Ash streets. The society is 
 one of the largest and most active in the city. 
 Rev. A. G. Rogers is the present pastor. 
 
 Below the house of The Seven Gables on 
 Turner street stands the new Seaman's Bethel 
 built in 1890 from the Barr fund left to the Salem 
 Marine Society by Capt. James Barr. 
 
 Nathaniel Hawthorne, the great romancer, 
 was born on July 4, 1804, in the northwest cor- 
 ner room of house No. 21 Union street. He 
 lived at No. 10 Herbert street at different times, 
 amounting in all to more than twenty years. 
 Many of his sketches were written here. At No. 
 14 Mall street he lived three years and wrote 
 the '^Scarlet Letter." He also lived at No. 18 
 
32 
 
 THE NOBTII SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 Chestnut street and in the house which is now 
 No. 26 Dearborn street, but which then stood 
 
 ^^^f^^-Cc^y ^:^^^^^x^. 
 
 where No. 31 does. One of his favorite haunts 
 was the old In<:ersoll house at the foot of Tur- 
 
SALEM. 
 
 2>i 
 
 UIKTUPLACE OF-HAWTUOUNE. 
 
 KOOM IN WHICH HAWTHOKNE WAS LOKN. 
 
34 
 
 THE NORTH 8II0BE GUIDE. 
 
 ner street, frequently designated The House of 
 Seven Gables. It is believed that this house, 
 which has many gables, and in those days had 
 more, suggested to Hawthorne the name of his 
 now famous romance. The old square house, 
 No. 53 Charter street, and the cemetery adjoin- 
 
 SIAIE NORMAL SCHOOL. 
 
 ing are where he lays the scene of the first part 
 of "Dr. Grimshaw's Secret." 
 
 The State Normal School for girls on Broad 
 street, corner of Summer. The Oliver primary 
 and the Salem High school adjoin it. The Nor- 
 mal school was established by the Commonwealth 
 of Massachusetts, the city of Salem and the East- 
 
SALEM. 35 
 
 em Railroad company in 1854. The principals 
 have been Richard Edwards, Alpheus Crosby 
 and D. B, Hagar, the present principal. 
 
 North Bridge — The first armed resistance to 
 British tyranny by people of the colonies took 
 place at the North Bridge on North street, on 
 Feb. 26, 1775. Here the citizens of Salem with 
 the militia under Colonel Pickering disputed the 
 right of Colonel Leslie and three hundred Brit- 
 ish regulars to cross. A compromise was finally 
 effected by which Leslie was allowed to march 
 his men across the bridge and then return to 
 Marblehead and embark for Boston. Blood was 
 shed here by British bayonets which pricked the 
 citizens who were scuttling their boats. The 
 people came out in response to the same call 
 which brought them out at Lexington and Con- 
 cord — the beating of drums and ringing of bells. 
 Here as there, unquestionably, they came more 
 or less armed to assist the militia which always 
 turned out with arms. A monument, erected in 
 1887, marks the spot. 
 
 Noted Houses and Residences. — A drive 
 around Salem will reveal many interesting houses ; 
 some interesting because of age, others because 
 of their old-time grandeur. The Pickering man- 
 sion, on Broad street, was built by John Picker- 
 
36 THE NORTH SHOllE GUIDE. 
 
IS ALE 31. 37 
 
 ing in 1650. It is now owned by one of his di- 
 rect descendants, Timothy Pickering, scholar, 
 lawyer, jurist, soldier and statesman, was born 
 here. Kernwood, in North Salem, the residence 
 of Mr. S. E. Peabody, is a charming estate. The 
 residence of ex-Secretary Endicott, No. 365 Es- 
 sex street, is a fine specimen of the oldtime Sa- 
 lem mansion. House No. 12 Lynde street, the 
 residence of Hon. William D. Northend, was 
 once the home of Rufus Choate. The "old bake- 
 house," located on St. Peter street, near the 
 jail, is a good specimen of an ancient residence 
 with jutting upper story. The Pickman house, 
 near the Peabody Academy of Science, is a fine 
 specimen of the old colonial house. Col. Benj. 
 Pickman built it in i 750. The Narbonne house, 
 numbered 71 Essex street, dates back to 1680 
 or earlier. 
 
 Kinsman Block, next the City Hall, is one of 
 the finest business blocks in the city. On the 
 third floor is Odd Fellows Hall, occupied by Fra- 
 ternity lodge and Salem encampment; and Ma- 
 sonic Hall occupied by all the masonic bodies of 
 the city. Both halls are handsomely finished and 
 elegantly furnished On the second floor are of- 
 fices. On the first floor are stores, including 
 the fine grocery store of I. P. Harris, Read & 
 
38 THE NOB Til SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 Co., and the newest firm in tlie building, but 
 one of the oldest in the county, the agricultural 
 store of the Buxton Seed Co. The officers of 
 this company are S. P. Buxton, President. S. P. 
 Messer, treasurer, and J. H. J. Colcord, secretary 
 and manager. This company have built up a 
 large trade extending over Essex Co., and among 
 the market gardeners of Arlington and vicinity. 
 They make a speciality of high grade seeds and 
 modern farm machinery. Mr. S. P. Buxton of 
 this firm is a son ot Daniel Buxton, jr., the origi- 
 nator of the famous ^'Danvers yellow onion." 
 
 Cemeteries. — In Harmony grove are buried 
 George Peabody, the banker and philanthropist ; 
 Judge Otis P. Lord, Major General William Sut- 
 ton, Brigadier General George H. Pierson, Capt. 
 John Bertram and many others of the "great and 
 good." In the old Charter street burying ground 
 are buried Hilliard Veren and Martha Corey of 
 witchcraft memory, Richard Derby, Warwick 
 Palfry, Benjamin Lynde, Simeon Forrester and 
 Deliverance Parkman. In the Broad street cem- 
 etery lie Gen. Henry K. Oliver, Col. Samuel C. 
 Oliver, and also Sheriff Corwin of witchcraft no- 
 toriety. Greenlawn cemetery, in North Salem, 
 contains an Odd Fellows' lot and monument and 
 a soldier's lot and monument. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 KOCK-BOUND MARBLEHEAD. 
 
 We sat within the farmhouse old, 
 
 Whose windows looking o'er the bay, 
 
 Gave to the sea breeze, damp and cold, 
 An easy entrance night and day. 
 
 Not far away we saw the port, 
 
 The strange old-fashioned, silent town, 
 
 The lighthouse, the dismantled fort, 
 The wooden houses, quaint and brown. 
 
 The windows rattling in their frames, 
 
 The ocean roaring up the beach. 
 The gusty blast, the bickering flames, 
 
 All mingled with our speech. 
 
 Longfellow. 
 
 As a summer resort, Marblehead has some 
 unique and attractive features. Besides its rocky 
 shores, interspersed with Htde beaches, and its 
 beautiful fields and forests, it has a history which, 
 for romantic interest, is unsurpassed. Its people 
 
 (39) 
 
40 THE NORTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 are entliusiastic and warm-hearted. In no New 
 England town is the true spirit of our institutions 
 more predominant than in this rock-bound old 
 village. A tinge of sadness seems to pervade its 
 history when we read it carefully. Its people 
 have been bowed and chastened not less in peace 
 than in war. In the days when to be a Marble- 
 header meant almost the same as being a fisher- 
 man, her sons, brave and daring always, went to 
 unknown graves by the score every winter. In 
 the days when the honor of the country was at 
 stake on land and sea, no town offered up its best 
 and truest more readily or freely than grand old 
 Marblehead. Now its fishing and its commerce 
 are things of the past, gone, no doubt, beyond 
 recall ; but hearts as true and loyal beat in the 
 breasts of the sons to-day as in the bosoms of the 
 sires in the days of old. 
 
 Historical.— Marblehead was detached from 
 Salem and incorporated into an independent 
 town known as Marble Harbor on May 2, 1649. 
 It is therefore one of the oldest of New England 
 towns. It is an interesting town, historically and 
 topographically. Its crooked streets and quaint, 
 irregular houses are a study in themselves, and 
 show how truly the early settlers conformed to 
 natural conditions in locating their habitations. 
 
MABBLEHEAD. 41 
 
 Early on the morning of June 25, 1877, the 
 manufacturing section of the town in the vicinity 
 of the raihvay station was swept by fire. At 10 
 o'clock on the evening of Dec. 25, 1888, another 
 conflagration swept over substantially the same 
 territory laying waste all the shoe manufactories 
 and other business places in the vicinity of the 
 station, the fire department house, Rechabite 
 building, including the hall of the Grand Army 
 Post and Philanthropic Lodge of Masons. In 
 the village are many places of historic interest 
 which will be briefly sketched below. 
 
 Birthplaces and Historic Houses.— In the 
 large white house nearly opposite the North 
 Church was born Elbridge Gerry, a signer of the 
 Declaration of Independence, Governor of Mas- 
 sachusetts, and Vice-President of the United 
 States. Judge Joseph Story was born in a house 
 now standing on the eastern side of Washington 
 street south of the town house. Col. William R. 
 Lee of revolutionary fame once lived in the house 
 north of the common. Gen. Ward's monogram, 
 placed by his own hand, is still to be seen in a 
 closet of this house. The house in which Gen. 
 John Glover hved is on Glover street opposite 
 State street. 
 
 The heroic James Mugford, captor of the Brit- 
 
42 THE NOB Til SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 ish powder ship, once lived in the house on the 
 corner of Back and Mugford streets. In the 
 house on the opposite side of the street and next 
 the Unitarian Church the body of tlie dead hero 
 was laid after his death on that beautiful May af- 
 ternoon, 1776. 
 
 The Lee house, now occupied by two banks, 
 was built by Jeremiah Lee at a cost of ^50,000, 
 and was a princely mansion. It is worth a visit, 
 for its great halls, its grand staircase, carved wain- 
 scoting and historic wall-paper may still be seen. 
 Chief Justice Sevvall lived for many years and un- 
 til his death in a house on Pleasant street. The 
 home of "Flood" (Floyd) Ireson was on Wash- 
 ington near the head of Franklin street. The 
 house is still standing. The celebrated Fountain 
 Inn was on Orne street. It was here that Sir 
 Harry Frankland found Agnes Surriage, the her- 
 oine of a recent novel. The well from which she 
 drew the sparkling water has been restored and 
 the visitor may slake his thirst from its cooling 
 liquid if he wishes. 
 
 Public Buildings. — The old town house which 
 stands near the junction of Washington and State 
 streets, built in 1727, is the most historic build- 
 ing in Marblehead. The town meetings were held 
 there until the erection of Abbot Hall in 1877. 
 
MABBLEHEAD. 43 
 
 Those walls have resounded to the eloquence of 
 a Gerry, a Story, the Ornes, the Lees and hun- 
 dreds of other eloquent citizens, and to stirring 
 appeals for men in the revolutionary war and the 
 war of the rebellion. The most important pub- 
 lic building at the present time is Abbot Hall, 
 built from a fund left by Benjamin Abbot, a na- 
 tive of the town. In the reading room are five 
 paintings of more than ordinary value, including 
 Willard's famous "Yankee Doodle." Non-resi- 
 dents can have the use of the library and reading 
 room on payment of 1^3. 
 
 A magnificent view is obtained from the tower 
 of this building. The entire Massachusetts bay 
 lies at one's feet, while the country inland may 
 be seen for miles. Bunker Hill monument and 
 the State House dome are visible to the naked 
 eye. 
 
 St. Michael's (Episcopal) church, built in 17 14 
 and still in use, once had for a pastor. Rev. Da- 
 vid Mosson, who performed the marriage cere- 
 mony for General Washington and Mrs. Custis. 
 The chandelier in this church was the gift of 
 John Elbridge of Bristol, Eng., in 1732. Exten- 
 sive repairs were made on the house in 1888. 
 
 A monument on Pleasant street, near the rail- 
 way station, was erected in 1876 to the memory 
 
44 THE NOB Til SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 of Capt. James Mugford, who was killed on May 
 17, 1776, after capturing a British powder-ship. 
 The soldier's monument is on Elm street at the 
 corner of Mugford. 
 
 The Neck. — Marblehead, although not one of 
 the most fashionable of the North Shore summer 
 resorts, is nevertheless one of the most popular. 
 Marblehead Neck, which lies just across the har- 
 bor, is second to no seashore resort in New Eng- 
 land, and for picturesqueness of surroundings 
 perhaps surpasses any. It is a peninsula, one 
 and a fourth miles in length and about half a 
 mile in width. The approach is along a narrow 
 isthmus formed of rocks and sand washed up by 
 the waves, so that the neck itself is substantially 
 an island. The ocean side is a bluff, rock-bound 
 shore, against which the seas beat with great fury 
 during a storm. 
 
 The harbor, on thenorthwesterly side, between 
 the neck and the village, is a half mile wide and 
 is one of the best yacht harbors on the coast. 
 This fact has brought many yachtsmen here to 
 live and made the neck the headquarters of the 
 Eastern Yacht Club, which built a club-house 
 during 1880. The Corinthian Yacht Club has a 
 fine club-house farther down the neck. The view 
 across the harbor is charming by day or night. 
 
MABBLEHEAD. 45 
 
 The quaint old town on its eternal foundation of 
 porphyry and granite is extremely picturesque, 
 and reminds one of some ancient Italian villa 
 nestling on the banks of the Mediterranean, backed 
 by bold bluffs, surmounted by a noble castle of 
 the days of yore. There are the old Marblehead 
 wharves, built on natural foundations of stone, 
 behind which rises the quaint, irregular settle- 
 ment with a fort on either side and the tower of 
 Abbot Hall surmounting the whole. The Nane- 
 pashemet is the principal hotel on the neck. 
 
 Bathing and boating may be had almost any- 
 where along the shore, although the beaches are 
 quite short. The drives hereabouts are excellent 
 and varied. A broad and sightly road extends 
 entirely around the neck. On the mainland the 
 highways through Marblehead, Swampscott, Lynn, 
 Nahant, along Atlantic avenue, Ocean street, and 
 Nahant beach can hardly be surpassed in attract- 
 iveness. In the other direction the drives to Sa- 
 lem, where all its historic points may be visited, 
 thence along the Beverly and Cape Ann shore, 
 are equally pleasant. 
 
 The distance from the entrance upon the neck 
 to Devereux station on the Swampscott branch 
 railway is about three-quarters of a mile. Barges 
 connect with all the trains during the summer 
 
46 THE NOBTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 months, and Capt. P. B. Tucker runs a fine, new 
 steamer across the harbor ahiiost hourly, and in 
 connections with all trains to and from Boston 
 and Salem. Captain Tucker has dories and sail 
 boats to let manned by skilful skippers. The fare 
 across the harbor is eight cents. 
 
 Clifton. — On the other side of the town, to- 
 wards Swampscott, are Clifton Heights and Clif- 
 ton. The former is a summer settlement of some 
 thirty or forty residences. Clifton is another set- 
 tlement consisting of the Clifton House and per- 
 haps thirty summer residences of about the same 
 pretentions as those at the heights. 
 
 General Notes. — Trains run to Lynn and 
 Boston over the Swampscott branch and to Sa- 
 lem and points beyond via the Marblehead branch 
 at frequent intervals ; special Marblehead express 
 trains are run to and from Boston. 
 
 Near Devereux station, on the road leading to 
 the neck, is the Devereux mansion where Long- 
 fellow wrote ''Fire of Driftwood," a portion of 
 which is quoted at the opening of this chapter. 
 
 There is considerable of a settlement on the 
 point known as Naugus head, next to Salem har- 
 bor. A number of pretty cottages have been 
 built there the last ten years. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 BEVERLY AND ITS SHORE. 
 
 Strangers have found that landscape's beauty out, 
 And hold its deeds and titles. But the waves 
 That wash the quiet shores of Beverly, 
 The winds that gossip with the waves, the sky 
 That immemorially bends, listening, 
 Have reminiscences that still assert 
 Inalienable claims from those who won 
 By sweat of their own brows, this heritage. 
 
 Lucy Larcom. 
 
 Description.— This stanza from the poet of 
 Cape Ann fitly describes the condition of things 
 in the first of the"Cape Ann towns." Its shores 
 have long been owned by summer residents. It 
 is not a Newport nor a Long Branch. It lacks 
 many of the features which make those places 
 popular with some people, more especially the 
 life and gaiety. But Beverly is, above all places 
 on our coast, a quiet summer resort. A solitary 
 highway winds in and out along the shore, with 
 
 (47) 
 
48 THE NORTH SHORE GUIDE, 
 
 pretty avenues leading to the water's edge on the 
 right, and others back into the woods on the left. 
 The residences and grounds are less pretentious 
 than those of the more noted resorts, but they are 
 not less attractive. To the lover of rural scenery 
 this Beverly shore is a section of unsurpassed at- 
 tractions. Not more beautiful is it to the dweller 
 on land or the stray traveller journeying along its 
 broad highways and innumerable by-ways, than 
 to the yachtsman or boatman off the shore. Rocky 
 bluffs, beaches and coves are pleasingly blended ; 
 trees of bountiful and beautiful foliage crown the 
 hill crests in the rear, while here and there we spy 
 the red roof of a summer dwelling — here, per- 
 haps, a pretty Swiss villa in the centre of a broad 
 lawn and surrounded with luxuriant flower beds ; 
 there a stately mansion overlooking the sea ; and 
 anon a Norman or Queen Anne villa crowning 
 some summit and frowning over all its neighbors. 
 
 The landscape is one of much diversity. Hills, 
 valleys, coves, lakes and woods make up a varied 
 surface. The most noted hills are Chipman's 
 where Salem reservoir is located, and Brimble, the 
 site of the Beverly reservoir. Wenham lake, at 
 North Beverly, is the most considerable sheet of 
 water. 
 
 Historical.— Beverly was originally a part of 
 
BEVERLY. 49 
 
 ancient Naumkeag, but was incorporated as an 
 independent town in 1668. Agriculture is a pur- 
 suit of considerable importance, especially at Ry- 
 al-Side, Centreville and North Beverly. In the 
 last named section is the noted Cherry hill farm 
 of the late R. P. Waters and also the extensive 
 and picturesque estate of the late John C. Phillips, 
 on the western bank of Wenham lake, a most 
 beautiful sheet of water. The manufacture of 
 boots and shoes is now the leading industry of 
 the town. Its fishing business, once extensive, 
 is quite limited. 
 
 The town was incorporated in 1668. In 1886 
 -7-8-9 and '90 efforts were made to divide 
 it by making a separate municipality of the Farms. 
 The bill was defeated in 1886, passed in 1887, 
 but vetoed by the governor and again defeated 
 in 1888, '89, and '90. The streets, water supply, 
 fire apparatus and school buildings of the town 
 average as good as those of any town in the 
 county. An independent water supply was in- 
 augurated in 1887 at a cost of ^150,000. 
 
 Along Shore.— Hale street, which branches 
 off" from Cabot, near the South Church, is the 
 main thoroughfare along this shore, and extends 
 to Manchester, a distance of seven miles — some- 
 times at the water's edge and again a half mile 
 
50 THE NOB Til SIIOBE GVIDE. 
 
 from the extreme end of some point. Or we 
 may turn from Cabot street into Washington, 
 and from that into Lothrop, passing on Lothrop 
 the EngHsh villa of William M. Whitney with a 
 broad lawn in front and a forest of shrubbery in 
 the rear and on either side. At the top of the 
 little hill across the valley, we come again to Hale 
 street and turn to the right. 
 
 Just beyond here we leave the main street and 
 enter Ober street. We shall pass some fine res- 
 idences with handsome lawns. The one on the 
 point to the right, some distance from the street, 
 was formerly the residence of Edward Burgess, 
 the famous yacht designer. The new one next 
 the street is that of W. B. Grover. Keeping to the 
 left we come to the Hospital point, or Thorn- 
 dike-street-group of handsome residences. On 
 the extreme point are those of Amory A. Law- 
 rence, W. D. Hobbs and George Peabody. Fol- 
 lowing out this street and turning to the left we 
 pass, on the shore side, the residence of Wil- 
 liam Endicott, a large white house, and on the 
 opposite side of Thorndike street the villa of 
 Charles Torrey. Next to Mr. Endicott's and on 
 the same side is the mansion of Joseph W. Lefa- 
 vour of Boston. Then comes the residence 
 owned by Mr. D. L. Pickman. Beyond it, ap- 
 
BEVEBLY. 51 
 
 preached by a private way, is the palatial man- 
 sion built by the late Wm. D. Pickman, and now 
 belonging to Mrs. Caroline Pickman. 
 
 Nearer to Hale street is Mrs. Willard Peek's 
 residence. This estate is enclosed with a cas- 
 tellated granite wall, while on the opposite side 
 of the street, enclosed by a like wall, is a large 
 park belonging to it. This brings us again to 
 Hale street. To the north is seen Oberwold, a 
 massive stone mansion in the deep woods. Brack- 
 enbury lane which leads to the right from Hale 
 street, will take us to the residence of Mrs. David 
 Sears. Prince street leads to a group of summer 
 residences. The large new house on the hill to 
 the right of Prince street, is that of Hon. Stephen 
 G. Wheatland of Salem. If we now return to 
 Hale street and continue along it we shall pass 
 through a charming wooded park, within which 
 are a number of handsome houses. 
 
 At Pride's Crossing station, the visitor should 
 turn down the road to the right, visit a cluster of 
 summer mansions most charmingly situated, amid 
 paiks, groves, gardens and lawns, where the fo- 
 liage is luxuriant and the air filled with the per- 
 fume of liberal acres of flowers, and where nature 
 has been assisted in the beautifying process by 
 
5 2 THE NOB TH SHORE G UIDE. 
 
 all that art can suggest and wealth supply. Here 
 are natural and artificial forests, meadows and 
 fields of grain and grass, interspersed with ponds, 
 rivulets, carriage roads, bridle paths and foot paths. 
 
 Beverly Farms. — The main road may be 
 reached by returning to the station or continuing 
 along the beach to Beverly Farms. This Beverly 
 Farms section is so called because it was once 
 comprised in two great farms. John Blackleach 
 originally owned a farm which extended from Mr. 
 Haven's present residence to Manchester-by-tlie- 
 Sea. The unique Swiss villa seen from Beverly 
 Farms in the distance, on Webster avenue, be- 
 longs to Mrs. Ozias Goodwin, and near it on Ever- 
 ett street is W. B. Sewall's cottage. Others in this 
 vicinity are owned by F. S. Morrison, Charles 
 Storrow, Henry Adams, Mr. J. Luke and Mrs. 
 Parkman, while further along the shore towards 
 Manchester-by-the-Sea, is Mr. S. T. Morse's ele- 
 gant villa. And on the Highlands opposite, are 
 the prominent and equally pleasant estates of C. 
 H. Dalton, J. Elliot Cabot, Dr. R. W. Hooper 
 and Thornton K. Lothrop. There is a Baptist 
 church here ; also a new Catholic church built 
 in 1887. 
 
 **The Queen."— Beverly has at last a sum- 
 
BEVEULT, 
 
 53 
 
54 THE NOBTH SHOUE GUIDE. 
 
 mer hotel. Mr. Israel Lefavour, one of the en- 
 terprising citizens of the town, built, in 1889, a 
 large and handsome hostelry on Lothrop street. 
 This hotel, The Queen, occupies the most com- 
 manding position on the Beverly shore. It stands 
 some thirty feet above the ocean and from the 
 windows of the upper rooms may be had mag- 
 nificent views of the surrounding country, while 
 from the top of the tall tower the panorama is 
 still more extensive. The highest point of ob- 
 servation from this tower is seventy-five feet from 
 the ground and more than one hundred feet above 
 the ocean, giving a view of the entire Massachu- 
 setts bay ; Beverly, Salem and Marblehead har- 
 bors as well as all three of those towns ; the beau- 
 tiful north shore ; the misty south shore ; the 
 islands of the harbor, and the distant parts of 
 Essex county. The Queen is 177 feet in length, 
 60 in width and four stories in height. It con- 
 tains one hundred and ten rooms of which 
 nearly one hundred are sleeping rooms. On the 
 first floor are the offices, parlors, smoking and 
 reading rooms, a dining hall, extending entirely 
 across the southern end of the house, and several 
 suites of rooms with fireplaces, gas and running 
 water. The three upper floors are devoted to 
 sleeping rooms. Four flights of stairs lead to and 
 
BEVERLY. 55 
 
 from each floor. Each floor is supplied with lav- 
 atories and bath rooms, and nearly all the rooms 
 are supplied with gas, save on the upper floor. 
 The rooms are of good size and very pleasant. 
 All are prettily finished and comfortably and taste- 
 fully furnished. The house is in every respect a 
 well equipped first-class summer hotel, and, lo- 
 cated, as it is, on the Beverly shore, so famous 
 for its varied attractions, it needs nothing more to 
 recommend it. On the water front a large smooth 
 lawn slopes to the beach. The bathing and boat- 
 ing facilities are good. It is no idle boast to say 
 that Beverly harbor on a moonlight night is 
 hardly surpassed by even that celebrated Bay of 
 Naples which has so long been called the most 
 beautiful place on earth, so beautiful that people 
 are advised to " see Naples and then die." To 
 the ailing it may be said, "see Beverly shore and 
 live." 
 
 The Pottery. — The graceful forms of ancient 
 pottery vases have been for ages the admiration 
 of art connoisseurs, but no one ever undertook to 
 copy or reproduce them till at the suggestion, 
 and for the special accommodation of Boston 
 ladies, the business was commenced in 1872 by 
 the Beverly pottery. To meet a constantly in- 
 creasing demand, the manufacture was com* 
 
5 6 THE NOB TH SHORE G VIBE, 
 
 menced on a more extensive plan. Many imita- 
 tions of these productions have been made in 
 moulds and sold under the name of Beverly pot- 
 tery, but this is all "thrown" upon the potter's 
 wheel, and consequently has the same symmetry 
 and appearance as that of ancient manufacture. 
 Should you wish to test their skill, carry with 
 you that favorite piece of pottery, that you per- 
 haps got at some of the buried cities of the Old 
 World, and see how quick, and how perfect a 
 copy can be here reproduced. You need not fear 
 to do this as no copy will be put upon the mar- 
 ket or sold to any individual if the owner is averse 
 to having it done. This pottery is situated on 
 Park street, just off Rantoul street, one minute's 
 walk from the horse-cars and five minutes' walk 
 from the railway station. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA.. 
 
 When the coast-country, from Bass River east — 
 To Agawam was known as Cape-Ann-Side, 
 Up from the ferry ran one winding road 
 Through pleasant Beverly, past Wenham Lake, 
 Losing itself in Chebacco woods 
 Among a hidden chain of gem-like ponds; — 
 A cow-path, so the ancient gossips say, 
 Branching upon the left through Ryal-Side 
 To Salem village; and upon the right, 
 Skirting the seashore, down through Jeffry's neck 
 And the Magnolia-swamp, to Sandy Bay, 
 And Pigeon Cove and sheltered Annisquam. 
 
 \_Lucy Larcom. 
 
 Manchester-by-the-Sea is among the older 
 North Shore resorts, and has never lost anything 
 of its popularity. Its growth as a summer resort 
 has been moderate but steady. One of its peculi- 
 arities is that, more than other New England 
 summer rendezvous, it attracts actors, artists, po- 
 ets and litterateurs from all parts of the country. 
 
 (57) 
 
58 THE ^^OBTII SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 Its four miles of coast is a pleasing combination 
 of bold headlands, pretty beaches and quiet coves. 
 During a storm one may behold gigantic seas 
 dashing against the projecting bluffs with sufficient 
 force to make the granite walls tremble, wliile 
 boats ride quietly at anchor in the coves ; and in 
 pleasant weather the waves roll gently up the 
 beaches and break noiselessly on the rocks. The 
 air of Manchester-by-the-Sea is tonic, and a spirit 
 of freshness and vigor pervades every one who 
 inhabits its shores. 
 
 Its History.— The town of Manchester origi- 
 nally formed a part of ancient Salem, from which 
 it was detached on May 14, 1645, being the next 
 after VVenham, and incorporated as an independ- 
 ent municipality. The early name was Jeffrey's 
 Creek, so called from William Jeffrey, the first set- 
 tler. It was once a fishing port of some note, but 
 that industry has practically disappeared. About 
 a third of a mile from the village is the Masco- 
 nomo House. It is one of the finest seashore 
 caravansaries on the coast and was built by Jun- 
 ius B. Booth in 1878 and opened to the public in 
 June of that year. Mr. Booth died in the fall of 
 1883. He had done much to create the summer- 
 resort popularity of the town. 
 
 Descriptive. — The traveller who enters the 
 town from Salem by rail or over the highway comes 
 
MANCHESTER-BY-THE-SEA. 59 
 
 first to West Manchester, a very pretty village. It 
 is here that Rev. Dr. C. A. Bartol, preacher and 
 philosopher, passes his summers. It is a remark- 
 ably cool place in summer, being second only to 
 Marblehead neck. The main settlement of the 
 town is about a mile beyond. 
 
 Pursuing our way to the village, we pass the 
 town house and Congregational church, and the 
 beautiful Memorial hall, the gift of Mr. T. Jef- 
 ferson Coolidge, erected in 1887. In this build- 
 ing are the rooms of Allen Post, G. A. R., and a 
 public library. Turning to the right, we follow 
 Railroad avenue across the railway and up the 
 hill to the Masconomo. The large, prominently 
 located residence on the hill to the left was oc- 
 cupied during several years by M. B. Conway, 
 the actor. The red-roofed cottage on the top 
 of the hill, a little farther up, on Thunderbolt 
 Rock, was for many years the summer residence 
 of the late JamBs T. Fields. At the Masco- 
 nomo we turn to the right and drive along the old 
 neck road a few rods and then take the drive- 
 way to the right. A road encircles the neck 
 and the visitor should go around on the west- 
 erly side and return on the easterly. There are 
 some very fine residences along this bluff. 
 
 Eagle Head. — The street leading past the Mas- 
 conomo to the left will take us to Singing Beach 
 
6o 2 HE NORTH SHORE GUIDE. 
 
 on the right hand and to Eagle Head on the other. 
 This is one of the grandest headlands on the 
 shores of Massachusetts bay. Leaving the car- 
 riage we walk down any of the embowered paths 
 leading to the base of the ledge and then clamber 
 up its steep side until we are on a level with the 
 tops of the trees and one hundred and thirty feet 
 above the sea, which breaks along the craggy 
 rocks at our feet. Now it rolls sofUy, almost 
 noiselessly up the side of some sloping ledge, and 
 anon dashes against a perpendicular front. This 
 on a lovely June afternoon. How changed the 
 scene on a dark winter's night when a southeast- 
 erly storm rages. The wild waves bear down on 
 our post like an army attacking a fort, as if, in 
 their mad rush, they fain would carry all before 
 them. As they approach nearer, rolling now like 
 mountains, they seem to pause for a moment 
 as if for renewed breath, and then to throw them- 
 selves against the giant rock in a perfect rage. 
 Above the beating of the storm, above the howl- 
 ing of the forest trees as they bend before the 
 wind, rises the roar of this furious war of the wa- 
 ters and the rocks, like ten thousand infuriated 
 demons, each bent on destroying the other and 
 ruling both land and sea. 
 
 " These restless surges eat away the shores 
 Of earth's old continent." 
 
MANCHESTER- B Y- THE- SEA. 6 1 
 
 Back to the main road by the cemetery we re- 
 sume our journey towards Gloucester. There are 
 but few more seashore estates until we reach Mag- 
 nolia, and those are situated some distance from 
 the highway and practically out of sight. The 
 large old-fashioned house some distance to the 
 right, which we see, about the time we cross the 
 railway after leaving the village, is the Dana house. 
 During many years, and until his death in 1878, 
 it was the summer home of Richard H. Dana, 
 the scholar and poet. On the shore in the vicin- 
 ity of the Dana estate, but hidden from the high- 
 way by intervening forests, are the pleasant estates 
 of Greely S. Curtis and Miss Emily T. Curtis. 
 These and the Dana residence may be seen by 
 driving through the woods along either of two 
 carriage paths. The settlement just beyond the 
 woods is known as Kettle Cove. There are a few 
 farms and some fishermen's houses, also two or 
 three summer cottages. The estates of T. Jeffer- 
 son Coolidge and the late Rev. James F. Clarke 
 lie to the right across the cove on a point of land. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 MAGNOLIA. 
 
 It was the schooner Hesperus, 
 
 That sailed the wintry sea; 
 And the skipper had taken his Httle daughter, 
 
 To bear him company. 
 
 Down came the storm and smote amain 
 
 The vessel in its strength; 
 She shuddered and paused like a frightened steed, 
 
 Then leaped her cable's length. 
 
 And fast through the midnight dark and drear, 
 Through the whistling sleet and snow, 
 
 Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept, 
 Towards the reef of Norman's Woe. 
 
 She struck where the white and fleecy waves 
 
 Looked soft as carded wool, 
 But the cruel rocks, they gored her side, 
 
 Like the horns of an angry bull. 
 
 At daybreak on the black sea-beach, 
 A fisherman stood aghast, 
 (62) 
 
MAGNOLIA. 63 
 
 To see the form of a maiden fair, 
 Lashed close to a drifting mast. 
 
 The salt sea was frozen on her breast, 
 
 The salt tears in her eyes; 
 And he saw her hair, like the brown sea-weed, 
 
 On the billows fall and rise. 
 
 Such was the wreck of the Hesperus, 
 
 In the midnight and the snow ! 
 Christ save us all from a death like this, 
 
 On the reef of Norman's Woe !" 
 
 Longfellow's " Wreck of the Hesperus/' 
 
 The Place Described.— The summer settle- 
 ments at Magnolia Point in Gloucester and Kettle 
 Cove in Manchester constitute, together, the re- 
 sort known as Magnolia. As a summer resort 
 it dates not earlier than 1870. It amounted to 
 but little before 1875. The first distinctive sum- 
 mer residence was built in 1872 by a syndicate 
 of Newton men. The following year a second 
 cottage was built. Since then the place has con- 
 tinued to grow in numbers and in popularity. 
 Travellers by rail get out at the Magnolia station 
 on the edge of Manchester and drive along a fine 
 road amid beautiful scenery, for two miles, to the 
 point. The Crescent Beach settlement is this side 
 of the point. It consists of a good-sized hotel 
 and a dozen or more cottages. 
 
64 THE N OB Til SIl QBE G UW E. 
 
 On Magnolia Point the large hotel farthest east 
 is the " Oceanside." Mr. Geo. A. Upton is the 
 owner and manager. This house with its cottages 
 has extensive and handsome grounds, with fine clay 
 and grass tennis courts. The views from the Ca- 
 sino, the piazzas and the balconies are very fine. 
 The house is well known in the west as well as 
 in the large eastern cities ; its guests coming 
 about equally from each, they have so spread the 
 knowledge of its attractiveness that no other ad- 
 vertising since the beginning has been needed to 
 fill it every season with the choicest people. The 
 other houses, all pleasantly located, are the Oak 
 Grove House, Willow Cottage, the Sea View, the 
 Hesperus. 
 
 Its Peculiar Attractions. — Magnolia boasts 
 every variety of attraction. On one side are a good 
 bathing beach, and a cove for the anchorage of 
 yachts. On the other side is a ''stern and rock- 
 bound coast " backed by a dense forest. In 
 front, is Massachusetts bay, with its fishing grounds 
 and islands, and innumerable sail. The woods of 
 which we have spoken are threaded by countless 
 footpaths, which lead to pleasant groves, or to 
 the bluff shore ; while a good carriage road ex- 
 tends through the forest towards Gloucester. 
 Berries and wild flowers greet us on every hand, 
 
MAGNOLIA. 
 
 65 
 
 8 
 
 \ I 
 
 ii\x 
 
 
 
 
66 THE NOBTH SHOBE GVIDE. 
 
 and back in the neighboring swamp grows the 
 fragrant magnoHa. " The Flume," about a half 
 mile from the hotels, is a channel in the cliff, 150 
 feet in length, 50 feet in depth, and 6 feet in 
 width, with perpendicular sides. Rafe's Chasm, 
 a little way beyond, is another attractive "natural 
 curiosity." It is a channel cut into the soUd rock, 
 nearly 60 feet in depth, 200 feet in length, and 
 10 feet in width. During a storm the water rushes 
 into this channel with tremendous force, striking 
 against its sides with the sound of thunder. The 
 reef of Norman's Woe is an island rock a short 
 distance from the high cliffs of the mainland. It 
 was here, tradition says, that the schooner Hes- 
 perus was wrecked in the latter part of the seven- 
 teenth century. The probate records of Essex 
 county show that a Richard Norman, about 1680, 
 sailed on a voyage from which he never re- 
 turned. 
 
 A large number of private residences have been 
 built in the vicinity of Magnolia by appreciative 
 summer residents. The visitor who drives along 
 the shore will go from here through a beautiful 
 wood-bordered road to Gloucester. He will 
 emerge at the head of Fresh-water cove, an in- 
 let from Gloucester outer harbor. The English 
 villa on the right, with lawns sloping away to the 
 
MAGNOLIA. 67 
 
 edge of the cove, is "Brook Bank," the residence 
 of the late Samuel E. Sawyer, who gave a hberal 
 sum to found a public library in Gloucester, and 
 subsequently bequeathed to it a large amount of 
 money, and for whom the library is named. The 
 avenue extends for some distance along the side 
 of the hill, the trees and houses far above us on 
 the left, and the ocean sixty or seventy feet be- 
 low on the right. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 GLOUCESTER. 
 
 A heap of bare and splintery crags 
 
 Tumbled about by lightning and frosts, 
 
 "With rifts and chasms and storm-bleached jags 
 
 That wait and growl for a ship to be lost : 
 
 No island, but rather the skeleton 
 
 Of a wrecked and vengeance-smitten one, 
 
 Ribs of rock that seaward jut, 
 
 Granite shoulders and boulders and snags. 
 
 Round which, though the winds in heaven be shut. 
 
 The nightmared ocean murmurs and yearns. 
 
 Welters, and swashes and tosses and turns, 
 
 And the dreary seaweed lolls and wags. 
 
 Historical.— Gloucester is thirty-one miles 
 from Boston by the Boston and Maine railroad. 
 It was settled about 1633 and incorporated as a 
 plantation in 1642. A year later, a church was 
 organized. The town of New Gloucester, Me., 
 was settled entirely by Gloucester people, in 1 743. 
 A city charter was granted to Gloucester on April 
 28, 1873, and Mayor Fears was inaugurated in 
 (68) 
 
GL0UCE8TEB. 6g 
 
 January, 1874. The population is now 21,703. 
 The fishing industry was first actively pursued in 
 the eighteenth century. In 1 841, it had so in- 
 creased, that seventy fishing vessels were owned 
 in the town. In 1875, the number had increased 
 to eighty of an aggregate tonnage of 4,000 tons, 
 and an average value of ^ i ,400. Besides the fish- 
 ermen in distant waters, some seventy vessels were 
 employed in fishing in home waters. The fig- 
 ures of the fishing business for 1881 were : 
 45,000,000 pounds of cod; 8,000,000 halibut; 
 vessels engaged, 719. These figures are ample 
 to indicate the extent of the fishing business of 
 this port. Since 1830, over 250 vessels and two 
 thousand lives have been lost in the fisheries. 
 
 Public edifices. — The tower of the city build- 
 ing, St. Anne's (Catholic) Church and the wharves 
 should be visited. From the tower of the City 
 Hall a grand view is obtained of the city, the sur- 
 rounding country and the harbor and ocean. St. 
 Anne's Church was begun in 1876 and complet- 
 ed, save the tower, in 1880. It is a pure gothic 
 edifice. It is rectangular in form, 76 by 142 
 feet, with a spire (when completed) 180 feet in 
 height. The windows are of beautiful stained 
 glass, while the ceilings and walls are artistically 
 frescoed, the various niches bearing some ster- 
 
70 THE NOBTH SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 ling figures emblematic of the faith. The altar 
 is of the richest marble of different colors, from 
 Italy, Spain, France and other countries — and of 
 pure gothic. Behind and above it, the four great 
 windows contain figures of " Our Blessed Lord," 
 the Virgin Mary, St. Joseph and St. Anne. 
 
 Gloucester is really the birthplace of Univer- 
 salism as a religious denomination. The doctrine 
 was first preached here in 1774, and the first re- 
 ligious body in America professing the doctrine 
 of universal salvation was organized by John 
 Murray on January i, 1779. The church was on 
 what is now the corner of Spring and Water 
 streets. 
 
 The wharves and fish-packing houses will be 
 found interesting and instructive. The station of 
 the B. & M. railway is on the northerly side of the 
 city. It was built in 1878. Cars leave here for 
 Rockport and for Salem, Boston and other points 
 nine times each day. Coaches depart for East 
 Gloucester, Eastern Point, Bay View and Lanes- 
 ville on arrival of the trains. 
 
 East Gloucester. — The large number of ho- 
 tels and cottages will be found on the East Glouc- 
 ester side. The section of the town is subdi- 
 vided into East Gloucester village, Bass Rocks 
 and Eastern Point. The first named is composed 
 
GLOUCESTEB. 71 
 
 of the modest cottages occupied by the famihes 
 of fishermen. There are also a few shops for the 
 manufacture of various articles used in the fish- 
 eries. On the ocean side of East Gloucester are 
 the delightful summer resorts known as Bass 
 Rocks, and Good Harbor beach. We may go 
 by stage or by private carriage, leaving the city by 
 way of East Main street. From the elevation 
 between East Gloucester village and Bass Rocks 
 we obtain a fine view of the surroundings. 
 
 The residence of Judge Sherman, on the ex- 
 treme point of the overhanging ledge of Bass 
 Rocks, presents a striking picture. The waves 
 beat against this rock at all times, and during a 
 storm the scene is one of unsurpassed grandeur ; 
 the angry sea dashes against the ledge with tre- 
 mendous force. The Judge can appreciate to 
 the fullest sense these lines from T. B. Reed : 
 
 My house was built on the cliffs tall crest 
 As high as an eagle might choose her nest; 
 The builders have descended the hill 
 Like spirits who have done their master's will. 
 Below, the billows in endless reach, 
 Commune in lyicomprehended speech. 
 
 The hotels in East Gloucester are the Delphin, 
 Bass Rocks and Brazier cottage. 
 'Round the Cape. — We may ride to Mag- 
 
7 2 THE NOB TH SB ORE G VIDE, 
 
 nolia and Salem, or in the opposite direction to 
 Eastern Point ; or we may drive to Rockport vil- 
 lage and Pigeon Cove on the one side ; and An- 
 nisquam, Bay View and Lanesville on the other ; 
 or go entirely around the cape, a distance of 
 about eighteen miles. If the visitor drives in 
 either of the two last-named directions, he should 
 not confine himself to the highway, but enter 
 some of the better-conditioned quarry roads and 
 drive around them. Many of these roads are in 
 good condition and lead through striking scen- 
 ery. Care should be taken when visiting quar- 
 ries not to get too near the blasts, as there is 
 great danger. If we are going to Bay View and 
 vicinity, we leave Gloucester by Washington street, 
 passing the cemetery on the right. The first 
 place of interest is the little settlement of River- 
 dale with its old mill, pretty stream and thrifty 
 looking farms. A mile beyond, we turn to the 
 left and cross Annisquam river to the village of 
 the same name, but commonly called Squam. 
 Time was when more vessels fitted from here 
 than from Gloucester. On the hill back of the 
 village is the Cambridge setftement. The view 
 from the top of this hill is one of the best on the 
 cape. From Annisquam to Bay View is some 
 two miles. General Butler has a summer resi- 
 
GLOUCESTEB. 73 
 
 dence at Bay View and used to pass much of his 
 time here. His house stands second on the left 
 as we enter the village, Col. Jonas H. French's 
 being the first. The prospect from the piazza of 
 the Colonel's house commands a view of Ipswich 
 bay and all that line of coast to New Hampshire. 
 The Cape Ann Granite Company's works here 
 should be visited. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 KOCKPORT. 
 
 **The rocky ledge runs far out into the sea, 
 And on its outer point some miles away, 
 
 The lighthouse lifts its massive masonry, 
 A pillar of fire by night, a cloud by day. 
 
 Like the great Christopher it stands. 
 
 Upon the brink of the tempestuous wave, 
 
 "Wading far out among the rocks and sands, 
 The night-o'ertaken mariner to save. 
 
 Steadfast, serene, immovable, the same 
 
 Year after year, through all the silent night, 
 
 Burns on forevermore that quenchless flame; 
 Shines on that inextinguishable light. 
 
 The sea-bird wheehng round it, with the din 
 Of wings and winds and solitary cries. 
 
 Blinded and maddened with the light within. 
 Dashes himself against the glass and dies." 
 
 Description.— Rockport, with its projecting 
 islands and reefs, forms the northern wall of Mas- 
 sachusetts Bay. It is the extreme point of Cape 
 (74) 
 
BOCKPOBT. 75 
 
 Ann. The depot, the terminus of the Cape Ann 
 branch of the Boston and Maine railroad, is four 
 miles from Gloucester and 35.4 miles from Bos- 
 ton. The railway and highway, after leaving 
 Gloucester, pass through a largely uninhabited 
 section, the old Beaver dam farm being the only 
 interruption of the wilderness. "Great" hill, be- 
 yond the farm, is a sightly place. The bay and 
 village, and Pigeon Cove and village, lie before 
 us in the distance ; to the left are hills of rock 
 and forest, — Pool's hill, Thompson's mountain 
 and Pigeon hill. Amid these rise the tall derricks 
 of the great granite quarries. To the right, lies 
 the open sea with its islands, rocks and white 
 sails. 
 
 Some History. — Rockport was settled by John 
 Babson (1695), ^"d Richard Tarr (1697), the 
 former at Straitsmouth and the latter where the 
 village now stands. At the breaking out of the 
 Revolutionary war, seventy Rockport boats were 
 engaged in the fisheries, about as large a number 
 as there has ever been since. The present popu- 
 lation of the town is about 4,000 and the esti- 
 mated valuation ^2, 200,000. The most remuner- 
 ative industry at the present time is granite cutting. 
 Nature bestowed upon Rockport a rich mine in 
 the great granite ledges, an apparently inexhaust- 
 
76 THE NORTH 8H0BE GUIDE. 
 
 ible quarry from which generation after generation 
 will draw wealth. Granite was first cut from these 
 hills in 1 710, to construct mooring stones for fish- 
 ermen ; not, however, until the beginning of the 
 nineteenth century were stones cut and used for 
 building purposes. 
 
 Thacher's Island Lights. — If we drive or 
 walk down through the village and out Mt. Pleas- 
 ant street, we shall get a near view of the light- 
 house on Straitsmouth island at the entrance to 
 Rockport harbor, and also of the famous Thach- 
 er's island lighthouses, those familiar beacons, like 
 sturdy sentinels standing guard for the whole cape. 
 Babson says this island was purchased by Rev. 
 John White for 100 pounds. He sold it to Joseph 
 Allen, in 171 7 for 175 pounds. In 1771 the co- 
 lonial government became its owner at a cost of 
 500 pounds, and proceeded in the same year to 
 erect two lighthouses and a dwelling house on it. 
 The lamps were lighted for the first time on Dec. 
 21, 1 771. The old lighthouses were supplanted 
 by the present noble structures a few years ago. 
 Henry C. Leonard, in his little work on Pigeon 
 Cove, says "The sea-birds, attracted by the splen- 
 dor of these quenchless flames, fly with such force 
 against the plates of glass which protect the flames 
 from wind and storm, that they fall dead upon the 
 
BOCKPOBT. 77 
 
 rocks around the towers." Rockport is now the 
 American terminus of one of the Bennett-McKay 
 cables. This cable was landed in the vicinity of 
 Straitsmouth Island on May 22, 1884. 
 
 Pigeon Cove and the Point. — The principal 
 summer settlement in Rockport is at Pigeon Cove 
 and Ocean View Point. As we drive towards the 
 point by way of Granite street, great ledges of 
 granite rise far above our heads on the left, and 
 the ocean rolls below us on the right. These 
 ledges have been cut away little by little, year af- 
 ter year, until, in many places, the whole aspect of 
 the shore has been changed. At Pigeon Cove are 
 the Pigeon Cove House, Ocean View House and 
 several boarding houses. At the point, is the Lin- 
 wood. Nature has done more for Pigeon Cove 
 than for any other section of the North Shore. 
 No place on the shore affords such walks through 
 the woods as this does. One may walk here for 
 miles unmolested and unimpeded by human face, 
 or voice, or fence. The whole interior is a network 
 of the most charming by-paths, through which 
 one can wander at leisure, sure that, though they 
 lead to no particular place, yet they lead to some 
 human habitation. T. W. Higginson says, in Old- 
 port Days : "I used to wander in these woods, 
 summer after summer, till I had made my own 
 
78 THE NORTH SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 chart of their devious tracks, and, now, when I 
 close my eyes in this Oldport midsummer, the 
 soft Itahan air takes on something of a Scandina- 
 vian vigor ; for the incessant roll of carriages, I 
 hear the tinkle of the quarryman's hammer and 
 the Veery's song ; and I long for those perfumed 
 and breezy pastures, and for those promontories 
 of granite, where the fresh water is nectar, and 
 the salt sea has a regal blue." 
 
 Land's End.— This is the most southeasterly 
 point of Rockport, direcdy opposite to Thacher's 
 island, and was formerly known as "Emmons' " 
 or "Emerson's Point." It has received its present 
 name in recognition of its prototype, in Cornwall, 
 England, the westernmost point of Great Britain, 
 and the last bit of land seen by voyagers from 
 England to this country ; — as Thacher's island, 
 with its lighthouses, just off this part of Cape 
 Ann, is the first land seen in approaching Amer- 
 ica. 
 
 The " Land's End Association " has here ac- 
 quired about five hundred acres of territory of 
 diversified character, which has been laid out and 
 improved during the past season. A commodious 
 and picturesque hostlery, the "Turk's Head Inn," 
 from every part of which the sea may be viewed, 
 crowns the higher portion of the point. It con- 
 
BOGKPOBT, 79 
 
 tains one hundred rooms, with all modern im- 
 provements. It is named in memory of the ex- 
 ploring voyage of Captain John Smith, along the 
 coast, in 1614, when, surveying the three islands, 
 ''Milk," "Thacher's," and " Straitsmouth," he 
 called them the ''Three Turks' Heads," in com- 
 memoration of his own prowess in successfully 
 slaying three Turks in single combat, after ac- 
 cepting their challenge, as Christian champion, 
 at the siege of Regal. Excellent roads have 
 been constructed which have received quaint 
 Cornish names, like those around the English 
 " Land's End." A new road which materially 
 shortens the distance from the railroad station, is 
 called " Cornwall Road ;" that from the village 
 of Rockport, "Wessex Road," after the old Saxon 
 kingdom of Wessex, or West Saxony. The drive 
 around the shore, over a mile in length, is called 
 "Penzance Road ;" " Penrhyn Lane," Cam- 
 bourne Way," Ruthene Way," and others sub- 
 divide and give ready access to different parts of 
 the estate. 
 
 Among the drives and sailing excursions avail- 
 able in all directions, toward a wonderful variety 
 of local attractions, every taste may be suited. 
 Romantic woods are within a few minutes' walk 
 of the inn. For bathing, sailing, and for rock- 
 
8o THE NOBTE SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 deep-sea, and fresh-water fishing, there is rare 
 opportunity. The principal bathing pavilion is 
 situated on a smooth, shelving, sandy beach, 
 about one mile long, where those who prefer it 
 can enjoy the invigorating influence of the surf; 
 while still water, of warmer temperature is to be 
 found at the smaller protected beach in the bight 
 of Lamorna Cove. Here also is the landing- 
 place ', there are free moorings available for boats, 
 large and small, and yachtsmen will find, just be- 
 yond, thirteen feet of water, at low tide. The 
 approaches are bold, and free from all obstruc- 
 tion. A competent boatman is on duty near the 
 beach, at all times, to attend to the wants of vis- 
 itors. 
 
 The headland offering to the sea a bold, rocky 
 front, is covered in summer with a profusion of 
 wild roses ; and with the contrasted shades of 
 green fields and woods near by, the rolling surf 
 of Long Beach on the one hand, and the still 
 waters of the Cove on the other, the Inn, and 
 tasteful private residences in the background, the 
 islands with their lighthouses, and a myriad of 
 sail in full view, — present a scene of singular 
 and impressive beauty. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 "WENHAM-HAMILTON. 
 
 Time is never wasted, listening to the trees; 
 
 If to heaven as grandly we arose as these, 
 Holding toward each other half their kindly grace, 
 
 Haply we were worthier of our human place. 
 
 Every tree gives answer to some different mood : 
 This one helps you climbing; that for rest is good; 
 
 Beckoning friends, companions, sentinels they are; 
 Good to live and die with, good to greet afar. 
 
 Lucy Larcom. 
 
 Just on the line dividing the towns of Wenham 
 and Hamilton, and in the immediate vicinity of 
 the railway station, has grown up a large and 
 thriving village. Much of the improvement here 
 has been due to the enterprise of Mr. George G. 
 Creamer, seconded by the efforts of Mr. Daniel 
 T. Smith. Mr. Creamer has built up a prosper- 
 ous business throughout the county in the bor- 
 ing of wells and setting up of windmills for sup- 
 plying water. Making his headquarters in this 
 
 (8i) 
 
8 2 THIS NOB TH SHORE G UIDE. 
 
 village on the Hamilton side of the line, he opened 
 a large store, where he carries on a general hard- 
 ware business. He has built a handsome resi- 
 dence for his own occupancy, and a whole village 
 of cottages which he has rented or sold. During 
 the spring of 1890 he bought the old Hamilton 
 House, moved it to this village and finished, in 
 the upper story, a hall which the citizens have 
 named Creamer Hall. The horse-cars run from 
 the station through the pretty village of Wenham, 
 past Wenham lake to Beverly and Salem. A short 
 branch also extends to Asbury Grove, the Metho- 
 dist camp ground. In this grove are some three 
 hundred cottages and the summer population is 
 often nearly a thousand in number. Just outside 
 the grove is Hamilton Park, a delightful settle- 
 ment with pretty summer residences. Cottages 
 line the street from the park to the station. Dur- 
 ing camp-meeting week (from Aug. 19 to 26, in 
 1890), the Boston and Maine road runs extra 
 trains from the main line to Asbury Grove over 
 a spur track. A mile to the eastward of Wen- 
 ham-Hamilton station is Hamilton village, near 
 which is the home of Miss Abigail Dodge, — 
 "Gail Hamilton." Between these two points, 
 reached by a driveway leading off the main road, 
 is the Gibney farm, the club-house of the Myopia 
 
WENHAM— HAMILTON. B>7, 
 
 Hunt. A large field near the track of the Essex 
 branch railroad has been laid out for a polo 
 ground. Here, during September and October, 
 the members of the Hunt exhibit their horseman- 
 ship. They also participate in fox-hunts over 
 the hills and valleys of the two towns. The 
 rapid settlement of this section of the county 
 during the last five years has been almost phe- 
 nomenal. 
 
 About three miles from the station and four 
 miles, as the crow flies, inland from the coast, 
 lies the famous Chebacco pond, modestly so 
 styled, but which in England would be a distin- 
 guished lake. Around it, like satelhtes, less in 
 size but not in beauty, lie three others, closely 
 grouped together. A dense forest of beeches and 
 oaks, interspersed with frequent groves and lofty 
 forms jealously encroaching upon the water line, 
 gives to the region the aspect of a wilderness. The 
 country is beautifully undulating and as the waters 
 seek the hollows and valleys amid the hills, each 
 pond abounds in charming bays along its indented 
 shores ; as one strolls along the upland he never 
 loses the glint of the blue waters, and the variety 
 of lovely vistas seems endless. 
 
 So long ago as 1859, Mr. John Whipple opened 
 a modest hostlery, placed in the midst, the very 
 
84 THE KOnTH SHOBE GVIJDE. 
 
 centre, of these ponds, so that from his piazza 
 one could walk to anyone of them in from two to 
 five minutes. The place soon became famous 
 throughout Essex county and farther ; quiet and 
 unpretentious but delightful in all its appoint- 
 ments, it became a favorite resort, and every son 
 and daughter of the old county knows well the 
 flavor of the broiled chicken and the fried pota- 
 toes which were the staple viands of the place. 
 Not less well do they know the pleasures of sail- 
 ing and rowing on those glancing waters, and 
 landing on those wooded shores. After the death 
 of the founder of the Chebacco House his two 
 sons combined to conduct it until last autumn, 
 when they sold it. The purchasers were a num- 
 ber of the so-called " summer residents " on the 
 Beverly and Manchester shore ; their desire at first 
 was to make of the old inn and the tract of sev- 
 enty-five acres a private club house. But more 
 hberal views prevailed, and it was resolved that 
 so beautiful a spot which had so long been open 
 to the public should still continue so, though un- 
 der greatly improved auspices. Accordingly, dur- 
 ing the past six months a great outlay has effected 
 correspondingly great changes. The house has 
 been almost rebuilt, with extensive piazzas and 
 verandahs outside, halls and boudoirs within, a 
 
WENH AM- HAMILTON. 85 
 
 handsome dancing hall, a great dining room, and 
 smaller private rooms. A windmill brings abun- 
 dance of the best water. Fences have been re- 
 moved and trees felled to open vistas over the 
 lakes, large stables furnish abundant accommoda- 
 tions and on these ponds every variety of boat 
 for sailing and for rowing can be had. The cli- 
 mate is perfect ; the keen east winds are tempered 
 in their journey through the woodlands, and the 
 warm westerly breezes are cooled as they come 
 down the great lake to the house. A pleasanter 
 spot on a summer's day is not to be found. From 
 Salem or Rowley one reaches it by a drive of 
 eight or of six miles through a picturesque coun- 
 try of varied hill and woods ; from Pride's Cross- 
 ing, Beverly Farms or Manchester, one drives to 
 it through four or five miles of unbroken forest. 
 At each of these places conveyances can be readily 
 obtained and every driver knows the road to 
 " Chcbacco." There is excellent fishing ; in the 
 autumn there is good shooting ; at all seasons one 
 can drive, ride and walk to one's heart's content 
 through exquisite scenery. Hard by is the Gib- 
 ney farm where the Myopia Hunt club has its 
 kennels and its stables, and its polo grounds and 
 where the pink-coated riders in September and 
 October gallantly pursue "across country " the 
 
86 THE NOETH 8H0RE GUIDE. 
 
 shadowy fox or the more certain "drag." Wen- 
 ham pond, too, is near at hand, a pretty spot^ 
 though it would hardly tempt anyone from Che- 
 bacco. The Chebacco is best reached by taking 
 the train to Wenham-Hamilton station and CO. 
 Putnam's teams from there to the lake. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 PEABODY. 
 
 Peabody was formerly a portion of Salem. In 
 1757 the town of Danvers was incorporated, and 
 later was divided into the north and south par- 
 ishes with town meetings held in each on alter- 
 nate years. In 1855 it was divided into the 
 towns of Danvers and South Danvers. In 1868 
 the name of South Danvers was changed to Pea- 
 body in honor of the town's benefactor, George 
 Peabody. 
 
 Leaving Essex street at its junction with Bos- 
 ton street, passing through a section of Salem de- 
 voted to tanning interests, we soon come to the 
 Big Tree, a large elm that stands in the roadway 
 and formerly marked the dividing line between 
 Salem and Danvers on the right. On the left, 
 the line of Salem extended to Lynn. These lines 
 were changed so that both sides of this street are 
 Salem to near the upper end of the old cemetery. 
 
 (87) 
 
88 
 
 THE NOBTH SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 At the base of this tree stands a stone rudely 
 marked, "June ye 7, 1707." It is supposed to 
 be the date when the tree was set out. It now 
 measures twenty-six feet in circumference at the 
 base. The old cemetery on the right is thought 
 
 GEORGE TEABODY, THE LONDON BANKER 
 
 to be the oldest in this section, and the oldest 
 dated stone stands nearly facing the entrance on 
 the left, bearing this inscription : "Here lyes ye 
 body of James Gyles aged about 10 years. De- 
 cease ye 20 of May, 1689." 
 
FEABODY, ^9 
 
 On the footstone of slate, these lines are chis- 
 elled : 
 
 ♦* Mind not the grave where 
 His dear dust is laid, 
 But bless above whither 
 His soul's conveyed." 
 
 The fine row of elm trees that front the cemetery 
 was set out in 1843. This cemetery is noted as 
 the burial place of Eliza Wharton, who resided in 
 the old Bell Tavern and was buried here in 1778. 
 Her grave is in the north side of the cemetery near 
 the iron-railed lot. The headstone was made of 
 freestone and on it could be read her name, age, 
 etc., and this line " and the tears of strangers 
 watered her grave." The footstone and a large 
 portion of the headstone have been chipped away 
 by relic hunters. The first house on the right was 
 formerly the schoolhouse of the Wallis district, 
 No. I, abandoned in 1869 and sold to Nathaniel 
 Annable, the village blacksmidi, whose anvil still 
 responds to his sturdy blows as it has from father 
 and son for more than a century in its present lo- 
 cation. Just above on the opposite side of Main 
 street, is the old burial ground of the Quakers or 
 Friends, who were largely represented in this 
 town, in olden times. A few of the families still 
 reside in the town. The large mansion on the 
 
90 THE NOB Til 8H0BE GVIDE. 
 
 hill, in the rear, was the residence of the late Gen. 
 Wm. Sutton, but is now the Old Ladies' Home. 
 
 On the left of Main street, on Sewall street, 
 stands the Wallis schoolhouse, built in 1869. On 
 the right side of Main street, the building occu- 
 pied as a drug store, belongs to the heirs of the 
 late Dr. Joseph Shed, a prominent member of 
 Jordan Lodge of Masons, and who built a hall in 
 it for the use of the lodge. In the anti- Masonic 
 time and for many years, its meetings were held 
 in secret. 
 
 This lodge was formed in the old town of Dan- 
 vers in 1778, but afterwards disbanded, its rec- 
 ords, charter, etc., being destroyed by fire in 1808. 
 In September, 1808, another charter was obtained 
 and a new lodge formed. It has continued ever 
 since, and now has a handsome hall in the Warren 
 bank building. Passing on up Main street, by the 
 old Danvers bank on the corner of Holten street, 
 we come to the junction of Main and Washington 
 streets, where stands the monument. This marks 
 the spot from which Captain Foster marched his 
 men to Lexington, April 19, 1775, when seven of 
 them were killed. It is of Danvers granite, 22 
 feet high, 7 feet square at the base and was erected 
 in 1835. ^^ ^^^Z t^"*^ curbing was removed and a 
 sub-base substituted to make room for the track 
 
PEABODT. 
 
 91 
 
 of the Lynn and Boston street railway. Washing- 
 ton street was formerly the old Boston road. The 
 old Bell Tavern formerly stood on what is now 
 the lawn in front of the residence of the late 
 Hon. A. A. Abbot, and in its west front chamber, 
 Eliza Wharton lived and died. On the opposite 
 
 THE MONUMENT AND OLD BELL TAVERN. 
 
 corner is the residence of C. B. Farley, Esq. A 
 short distance above, on Washington street, 
 stands the Methodist church that was purchased 
 from the South Congregational society in 1843 
 and moved from the Square, the monument be- 
 ing moved to allow it to pass. This street is one 
 
9 2 THE NOB TH 8H0BE G VIDE. 
 
 of the finest in town and lined with handsome 
 residences and shade trees. 
 
 Returning to Main street, the first brick dwell- 
 ing house on the right was the home of the late 
 Denison Wallis, the founder of the school that 
 bears his name. 
 
 The next building is the Peabody Institute, 
 founded by the late George Peabody, on June i6, 
 1852, the centennial anniversary of the division 
 of the town from Salem. It was built in 1853-54, 
 of brick, with freestone trimmmgs, 128 x 50 feet, 
 and contains a library of 28,619 volumes, that 
 had a circulation of 31,690 volumes in 1889, and 
 a lecture hall that will accommodate 800 persons. 
 A full length oil painting of the town's benefactor 
 hangs in the lecture room, with portraits of Rufus 
 Choate and Edward Everett. In the library can 
 be seen an oval miniature of Queen Victoria, pre- 
 sented to Mr. Peabody by Her Majesty. It is 
 painted on a plate of solid gold, 14 x 10 inches, 
 and bears the inscription, " Presented to George 
 Peabody, Esq., the benefactor of the poor in 
 London ;" also two gold boxes, the Peabody ed- 
 ucational medal and autograph letters, with other 
 presents aggregating more than ^50,000 in value. 
 The portrait of Her Majesty is kept in a fire- and 
 burglar-proof safe and open to view when the li- 
 
PEABODY. 93 
 
 brary room is open. It was from here that the re- 
 mains of George Peabody were taken to their final 
 resting place in Harmony Grove, Feb. 8, 1870. 
 In the rear of the Institute is the Eben Dale Sut- 
 ton reference library, given to the town by Mrs. 
 Eliza Sutton, whose name will ever be revered by 
 all citizens of Peabody, for the beautiful and use- 
 ful gift. It was opened in June, 1869, and 
 now contains 2,737 volumes of the rarest and 
 most valuable books, free to the use of all. The 
 next block above, on Main street, is one of the 
 best business blocks in the town, known as Sutton 
 block. The upper portion is occupied by Union 
 Post 50, G. A. R. and the lower by stores. On 
 Park street, nearly opposite, is the Unitarian 
 church, built in 1856. Rev. C. C. Sewall 
 preached here from 1827 to 1 841. In 1872 the 
 house was remodelled at an expense of $12,000. 
 In the rear stands the Baptist church, built in 1 85 7, 
 and remodelled in i ^^^. Returning to Main street, 
 the second building on the left is the old estab- 
 lished drug store of D. P. Grosvenor, standing 
 on the site of the building where the late George 
 Peabody served his apprenticeship with the late 
 Sylvester Proctor from 1806 to 1810, when he was 
 eleven years of age, and where he laid the foun- 
 dation of the immense fortune which enabled 
 him to give away over $12,000,000. Mr. Grosve- 
 
94 THE NORTH SHOBE GUIDE. 
 
 nor is the telegraph operator of the town. He 
 has some of the old furniture of the store that was 
 used by Mr. Peabody when a druggist's appren- 
 tice. On the opposite side of Main street in the 
 rear, is the neat and handsome church of the 
 Universalist society. This was built in 1832, and 
 the hall then underneath was used for town meet- 
 ings before the town of Danvers was divided. It 
 has been remodelled several times and is equal 
 to any church in town. Opposite is the handsome 
 block of the Essex club built in 1882. 
 
 Warren Bank building is a little farther west, a 
 neat brick block, occupied by the National bank, 
 the Five Cents Savings bank and the Peabody of- 
 fice of the Salem News. It was remodelled in 1 890. 
 Above are reading and club rooms, and a Masonic 
 and Odd Fellows' hall. Across the street stands 
 one of the oldest business blocks in town, known 
 as Allen's building. O. B. Chadwick & Co., in- 
 surance agents, have their office here, established 
 in 1877, having the agency of many of the best 
 companies and doing a safe and careful busi- 
 ness. The next building was for many years the 
 hotel of the town, but now is a business block 
 with the post-office moved here in 1886 from 
 Upton's block on the corner of Foster street. 
 
 In the centre of the Square stands the soldiers' 
 monument, dedicated Nov. 10, 1881, erected at 
 
PEABODY. 
 
 95 
 
 an expense of ;^ 7, 167. It is of Hallowell granite, 
 fifty feet high from the sub-base, surmounted by 
 a copy of Crawford's statue of America with the 
 left hand holding a broken shackle instead of a 
 coat of arms. On the tablets are the names of 
 
 STANDARD THERMOMETER COMPANY. 
 
 seventy of the soldiers and sailors who lost their 
 lives in the rebellion. 
 
 On the corner of Foster street, named for the 
 late Gen. Gideon Foster, is the fine block occu- 
 pied by the Standard Thermometer Company 
 
96 THE NORTH 8H0BE GUIDE. 
 
 which manufactures the only metal thermometer 
 used. The company has built up a large and in- 
 creasing business and manufactures an extensive 
 line of electrical machinery. 
 
 This street is lined with tanneries and currying 
 shops where immense quantities of leather were for- 
 merly manufactured annually. At its junction with 
 Washington street stands the pumping station of 
 the water works completed in 1882. The total 
 cost of the works to 1889, has been ^292,25 1.96. 
 There are about 140,000 feet of pipes laid in town. 
 
 In the rear, the large stone building is the Dan- 
 vers bleachery. Here millions of yards of cotton 
 cloth are bleached and colored annually; the 
 water of this town being particularly good for 
 bleaching. In the background are the Upton glue 
 works that have been known for years for the ex- 
 cellence of their goods. The second house above 
 the bleachery is the one where George Peabody 
 was born on February 18, 1795. Mr. Peabody 
 died in London on November 4, 1869. Beyond 
 lies that section known as South Peabody, where 
 there are extensive granite quarries and farms ; 
 with Brown's and Spring ponds that furnish the 
 town with water and ice. Cedar Grove cemetery 
 is on the left, located in 1869 ; there have been 
 over 700 interments in this cemetery. 
 
 Starting from the Square, on Central street, is 
 
PEABODY. 97 
 
 the depot of the eastern division of the Boston & 
 Maine raih'oad branches, on a portion of what 
 was once known as Walhs mill pond which, in the 
 writer's youthful days, teemed with fish. Alewives 
 by the thousands passed through here in the 
 spring, on their way to Brown's and Spring ponds, 
 where they spawned and returned to the sea. Op- 
 posite, stands the South church, formerly the third 
 church of Salem, gathered on Nov. 28, 1710, and 
 was known as such till 1759. This is the fourth 
 edifice built on this site, the first having been torn 
 down in 1836. A picture of it painted in 1826 
 can be seen at the new town hall. The next one 
 was dedicated Feb. i, 1837, and sold to the Meth- 
 odists in 1843; another (then just completed) 
 was burned in the great fire of Sept. 22, 1843, 
 when twenty-one buildings were destroyed ; the 
 present structure was dedicated Aug. 10, 1844, 
 and the society now numbers over three hundred 
 members. In the rear of the cliurch can be seen 
 the old town house, built just before the division 
 of the town in 1855, now the Peabody High 
 schoolhouse. The latter was founded in 1850. 
 Passing up Central street we reach Elm street, 
 where stands this noted old elm tree, the largest 
 and finest in town, transplanted to its present lo- 
 cation in 1775. This marks the entrance to the 
 5 
 
98 THE i\ OB Til SIIOEE G UIDE. 
 
 extensive confectionery establishment of George 
 W. Pepper, established in 1830 and noted 
 throughout New England. Here are manufact- 
 ured the celebrated Salem gibralters and the dia- 
 mond cough drops by the ton. The place is well 
 worthy of a visit. 
 
 Central street was once noted for its potteries, 
 where earthenwares were made, known through- 
 
 out New England as Danvers china. One only 
 of the potteries is now in operation. The Bow- 
 ditch school on this street has eight teachers and 
 three hundred and fifteen pupils. The high hill 
 in the rear is known as Buxton's hill. From its 
 top the flames of burning Charlestown were seen 
 in 1 775. The stand pipe of the water works now 
 occupies the top and its base is one hundred and 
 fifty nine feet above tide water. It is of iron 60 
 
PEABODY. 99 
 
 feet in diameter, 25 feet high with a capacity of 
 half a million gallons. 
 
 On Andover street may be seen the old Endi- 
 cott mansion of the style of the last century with 
 its summer house, still surmounted by a life-size 
 figure of a farmer boy whetting his scythe. This 
 section of the town is a farming one and is where 
 the noted Danvers yellow onion originated, by 
 Daniel Buxton, jr., whose son Simon P. Buxton is 
 the senior partner of the Buxton Seed Co., seeds- 
 men, in Kinsman block, Salem. Farther on to- 
 wards Danvers the elegant mansion and grounds 
 of Oak Hill farm lie on the left, one of the finest 
 in this section. Returning to the Square, we pass 
 up Lowell street, a street containing many old and 
 established business houses, including the stove 
 and tinware store of F. L. Sears. 
 
 Opposite Chestnut street is the old Dustin build- 
 ing occupied by the " Peabody Press." Here we 
 see the new town house built in 1883 ^t an ex- 
 pense of ^103,429.00. Nathan H. Poore, has 
 been town clerk for thirty-five years. Above, on 
 the right, stands the brick house of the fire de- 
 partment which is second to none. In it are 
 kept two steamers, hose carriage and ladder truck. 
 In the rear of Chestnut street is the St. John's 
 (Catholic) church, completed in 1880. It is 
 
100 THE NORTH 8H0BE GUIDE, 
 
 pure gothic, with elegant stained glass memorial 
 windows. On Lowell street is located the plain 
 and unpretending St. Paul's (F^piscopal) church, 
 founded in 1874, built in 1876 and remodelled 
 in 1888. In the rear of Lowell street, is the 
 Centre schoolhouse, a handsome brick structure. 
 Passing up this street a row of pretty residences 
 lines either side of the way to that section of the 
 town known as the kingdom, where there are many 
 families of Kings, but no one of them is a ruler 
 or wears a crown. This is also a farming region. 
 The population of the town is rising 10,000 with 
 9,050 acres of land, a total valuation of ^7,094,- 
 100.00, and 2,474 polls. The town has 13 schools 
 with 2,129 pupils and 45 teachers, and expended 
 ^27,104.08 for schools in 1889-90. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 SALEM HARBOR. 
 
 The growth of Salem Harbor as a summer re- 
 sort has been quite rapid of late. For some years, 
 until about 1882, Lowell island was a public re- 
 sort of considerable popularity having a large 
 hotel on it. The last few years the house has been 
 turned into an island sanitarium where, during 
 each summer, several hundred children are kindly 
 cared for. One of the finest spots in the harbor 
 is Baker's island. This island covers sixty acres. 
 On the eastern point are the two government 
 lighthouses. The remainder of the territory is a 
 growing summer setUement. In 1887, Dr. N. R» 
 Morse of Salem built a hotel on the westerly 
 slope. In 1888 he added to it, and in the spring 
 of 1889 made still further enlargement until the 
 Winne-egan House will now accommodate one 
 hundred guests. The dining room will seat about 
 150 persons. Mr. George A. Morse is manager. 
 
 (lOl) 
 
I02 THE NOBTH 8H0BE GUIDE. 
 
SALEM HABBOB. 103 
 
 The island has been surveyed and laid out in lots 
 which will be sold to those wishing to build sum- 
 mer cottages. In a few years the island will, 
 undoubtedly, be a populous resort, and the growth 
 will extend to other islands. 
 
 Misery island, near Baker's, is also growing in 
 popularity, and already several cottagers resort to it 
 every summer. Salem harbor is one of the finest 
 south of Portland, its green islands and blue 
 waters, with Salem, Marblehead, Beverly and the 
 Cape Ann shore for a back-ground, forming a 
 charming picture. Capt. Colcord Upton and J. T. 
 Smith run steamers to Baker's island and down 
 the harbor throughout the summer, making reg- 
 ular and frequent trips. It would be difficult to 
 find a more delightful trip than that down Salem 
 harbor to Baker's island. On a warm summer 
 day it is a comfortable place to dine, and the 
 nights are always cool. A good substantial land- 
 ing pier was built at Baker's in 1889. 
 
BUXTON SEED Co., 
 
 Seed Growers and Dealers, 
 
 PAEM IMPLEMENT DEALEES. 
 
 FLOWER SEEDS AND BULBS, 
 fianlen, lawn and fireeriliouse llcqiiisiles. 
 
 AGENTS FOU THE 
 
 Hartman Steel Piciet Lawn Fence. 
 
 Handsome, Indestructible, Cheaper than 
 Wood. 
 
 Send for Illustrated Catalogue and Price List. 
 
 BUXTON SEED CO., 
 
 Kinsman Block, 77 Washington St., Salem, Mass. 
 
 1'E3I_E:F>Ii01ME: 3SrO. 103-4. 
 
The Maine Central Railroad 
 
 IS THE ONLY 
 
 ALIv RAIIv ROUTK 
 
 TO AND FKOM 
 
 MT. DESERT, 
 
 And all parts of the 
 
 State of Maine and the Maritime Provinces. 
 
 It is also the Best Route to 
 
 BooTHBAY, Camden, Northport, moose- 
 head AND RANGELEY LAKES. 
 
 And all of the Noted Seaside, Huntivg and Fishing Resorts 
 of Maine and Neio Brunswick. 
 
 Time of Express Trains between BOSTON and BAR HARBOR, 10 
 Hours, Day and Night Service. 
 
 This Company also operates the Only Line 
 from Maine, 
 
 Leading through the Celebrated Craiuford Notch 
 
 TO THE 
 
 WHITE MOUNTAINS, 
 
 BURLINGTON, VT., MONTREAL AND QUEBEC. 
 
 AND ALL POINTS WEST. 
 
 Send for Time Tables and Excursion Books, 
 
 F. E. BOOTHBY, PAYSON TUCKER 
 
 Gen'l Pass, and Ticket Ag't. Gen'l Manager. 
 
 PORTLAND, MAIKE. 
 
 CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE. 
 
MAINE CENTRAL R R Continued. 
 
 Summer Resorts. 
 
 THE MAINE CENTRAL 
 
 With its branches and connections reaches the following 
 Popular Summer Resorts, 
 
 The White Mountams, Moosehead and Eangeley 
 
 Lakes, Eustis, Dead Eiver, Porks of 
 
 the Kennebec. 
 
 MOUNT DESERT, 
 
 BooTHBAY, Squirrel Island, 
 
 Mt. Katadin, Penobscot Waters, 
 
 St. Andrews, St. John, Halifax, 
 
 Grand Falls, Campobello. 
 
 The beautiful valley oftlie Aroostook and St. John, and all 
 
 parts of New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Cape 
 
 Breton, Prince Edwards Island, 
 
 and (J rand Ma nan. 
 
 Tie Portland, Mt. Desert & MacMas SteaniDoat Co. 
 
 Is also imder tlie same management, with Steamers leaving 
 Portland on Tue^diiys and FricJays at 11 P. M., or on arrival 
 otExjiress Trains from lloston, for Rockland, Castine, Deer 
 Isle, Sedj:wick, Soutlnvest and Bar Harbors, fiJillhridge, 
 Jonesport and Maciiiasport. Heturnin^r, leave Machiasport, 
 Mondays and Tiiur&days, toucliing at all laudnigs. 
 
 OFFICERS OF THE COMPANY AT PORTLAND. 
 F. E. BOOTHBY, PAYSON TUCKER, 
 
 General Pas'r Asent. Vice Pres. and Gen'l Man' 
 
Cold Facts 
 
 An ordinary ther- 
 mometer i s a"l most 
 wortliless. It is so 
 small that you can only 
 see it upon close ex- 
 amination, and this 
 makes it not the ser- 
 vant of your daily 
 needs, but a minister 
 to your occasional cu- 
 riosity. It is of use 
 onlv when you see it. 
 How olten is that ? 
 You never see it untd uncomfortably reminded of your con- 
 dition. Really your own body is the thermometer you are 
 xising, and it is an expensive one to use. You take cold 
 when you are not thinkmjr. 
 
 The Standard Thermometer 
 
 Stares you in the face and makes you think. Your coughs 
 and cold!^ will almost cease when you use a dial thermom- 
 eter. With a clock in the room, you know the time instinct- 
 ively. Without meaning to look at its face, you see it con- 
 stantly. What is true of time is true of temperature. You 
 see the great needle more easily than a clock. In a week 
 you are so familiar with its position that a variation of two 
 degrees arrests your attention at once. You act in time. 
 
 SAVES ^°"=- 
 
 V^J. \. Y J_-/k^ ( DOCTOl 
 
 DOCTOR'S BILLS. 
 
 It saves yon a dozen colds a year. It saves fuel. It 
 saves doctor's bills, and makes the whole family comfortable. 
 
 Half of all sickness begins in a cold. Stop the cold and 
 the sickness is anested. One cold stoi)ped, more.than pays 
 for the tliermometer. As it lasts a lile time, it really costs 
 only a few cents a year. The whole household enjoys it, 
 and* the health of every member of the family is the better 
 for it. Address 
 
 jy)^. Standard 5l?er/T)o/neter §omp'y, 
 
The Boston i iJQaine Railroad 
 
 SUMMER PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 The most Elaborate and Expensive ever Issued. 
 
 ***AIjIj along shore. 148 Pages. 62 Illustrations. 
 2 large Maps. 
 
 descriptive of the seaside resorts of new ENGLAND. 
 
 Sent post-paid on receipt often cents in stamps by the 
 Passenger Department Boston and Maine Railroad. 
 
 *%AMONG THE MOUNTAINS. 128 Pages. 40 Illus- 
 trations. 2 Large Maps. 
 
 DESCRIPTIVE OF THE PLEASURE RESORTS AMONG TUB 
 HIGHLANDS OF NEW ENGLAND. 
 
 Sent post-paid on receipt of ten cents in stamps by the 
 Passenger Department Boston and Maine Railroad. 
 
 ***I,AKES AND STREAMS. 96 Pages. 63 Illustra- 
 tions. 3 Large Maps. 
 
 DE!!CRIPTIVE OF THE HUNTING AND FISHING RESORTS OF 
 NEW ENGLAND AND CANADA. 
 
 Sent post-paid on receipt of ten cents in stamps by the 
 Passenger Department Boston and Maine Railroad. 
 
 ***BOSTON & MAINE EXCURSION BOOK!. 96 
 
 Pages. 
 
 GIVING EXCURSION RATES, HOTEL AND BOARDING-HOUSE 
 
 LIST, TIME-TABLES, PARLOR AND SLEEPING 
 
 CAR SERVICE. 
 
 Sent free on ajiplicatiou to the Passenger Department 
 Boston and Maine Railroad. 
 
BOSTON & MAINE R. R. 
 
 The Great Tourist Route from Boston 
 
 TO 
 
 THE WHITE MOUNTAINS, 
 
 THE GREEN MOUNTAINS, 
 
 MONTREAL and QUEBEC, 
 Winmpesaukee, Mempliremagog^ Rangeley and 
 Moosehead Lakes^ 
 
 mt. desert, 
 
 PORTLAND, BANGOR, St. JOHN and 
 HALIFAX. 
 
 STATIONS IN BOSTON. 
 
 WESTERN DIVISION. 
 Haymarket Square, - Head of Washington Street. 
 
 EASTERN DIVISION. 
 Causeway Street, - - Foot of Friend Street. 
 
 LOWELL SYSTEM. 
 Causeway Street, - - Foot of Portland Street. 
 
 CITY TICKET OFFICE. 
 214 & SIS Washington Street. 
 
 For List of Boston and Maine Sumnner Publications 
 
 SEE NEXT PAGE. 
 
 JAS. T. FURBER, D. G. FLANDERS, 
 
 General Manager. General Passenger Agent 
 
Beverly Pottery— Established 1868. 
 
 C. A. LAWRENCE, 
 
 Maiuifactuier of all Kiiuls of 
 
 EARTHEN WARE. 
 
 A JLarge Assortment of Antique Pottery 
 on hand, 
 
 And special attention given to the reproduction of 
 
 Ancient Pottery, 
 
 En HER FROM THE ORIGINALS, OR FROM PHOTOGRAPHS, 
 WOuDCUTS OR DRAWINGS. 
 
 Also agent for the Portland and Akron Sewer Pipe and 
 
 ire Brick, acknowledged bj' all, and proved l)y actual test 
 
 be the best pipe in the market. Entirely new buikUngs 
 
 Fire Brick, acknowledged by all, and proved by actual test 
 to be the best pipe in the market. Entirely new buildi 
 and improved facilities, 
 
 Beverly Pottery, - - P.O. Box 252, 
 
New Brunswick Railway 
 
 with its connections the 
 
 MAINE CENTRAL AND BOSTON AND MAINE 
 
 Forms the 
 ALL RAIL LINE 
 
 TO THE 
 
 Provinces and Northern Maine, Woodstock^ 
 
 St. Stej)hens, St. A7idreius^ Fredericton., 
 
 St. John and Grand Falls. 
 
 Finely equipped road, new rolling stock, through train 
 service, Pullman Parlor and Sleeping Cars. 
 
 F. W. CRAM, Gen' I Manager. 
 A. J. IIEA TH, GenH Passenger Agent. 
 
 OFFICES, ST. JOHN, N. B. 
 
 L P. HARRIS, READ & CO., 
 
 G-:E^ocE:E^s, 
 
 85 Washington Street, Kinsman Block. 
 
 Wagon runs Daily to all Parts of Salem, also to Marhlehead. 
 
 Popular and well-known Brands of Fine Qoods, 
 
 Which are always in stock: Washburn's Superlative Flour, Ames, 
 Fancy Flour, Revere Granulated Sugar, Havemeyer & Elder's Cut 
 Loaf Sugar, Richardson and Robbins' Canned Meals, Lugana and 
 Pojero Macaroni; Rose's and Martinique Lime Juice; Cantrell & 
 Cochrane's Ginger Ale, Appollinaris Water, Rae's Sublime 1-ucca 
 Oil, (i olden Gate Canned Fruits, Wheat Starch, Burnett's Extracts, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 FINE BUTTER.— Diamond Creamery Butter, in 5-lb. and 8-lb. 
 boxes, and 20, 30 and 50 lb. tubs, received by Tiffany Refrigerator 
 Car weekly. 
 
 The attention of the summer trade is respectfully called to our 
 facilities for furnishing the best goods at the lowest prices. 
 
 I. P. HARBIS, READ & CO. 
 
I 
 
 ;ii j^'^ ~ 
 
 Edward H. Knight & Co, 
 
 DEALER IN 
 
 COAL, * WOOD 
 
 AND 
 
 s^ie-Ki. 
 
 RAILROAD FREIGHT STATION, 
 PHILLIPS WHARF, 
 
 SAI^KlVt, ----- IMASS. 
 
MUDGETT&CO., 
 
 L1!E[[Y, H/CK & BOARDING 
 
 STABLES, 
 
 212 1-2 Essex and 7 Hamilton St , 
 
 S^LEM, MASS. 
 
 Horses and Carnages to let by the Season a Specialty. 
 
 HORACE A. BROOKS, 
 
 BOOK BINDER 
 
 — And — 
 SALEIVX, ]*,1ASS. 
 
 — BINDERY, 226 1-2 ESSEX STREET. 
 
T. A. DEVINE, 
 
 IMPORTER AND 
 
 noie^aie uiiuor Dealer, 
 
 Cor. Front and Lafayette Sts., 
 
 salkm:. 
 
 TEX^EFXIOISrE JSTO. 3-3. 
 
 We keep the largest stock in Essex County. We 
 buy from first hands and are ready to supply families 
 in Salem and neighboring towns free of expressage. 
 
 We have in Salem and Boston Custom Houses a 
 large stock of Sherry, Port and other wines, Brandies, 
 Gin, etc., in casks and bottles. 
 
 Frank Jones' Portsmouth Ale bottled for family use. 
 
Peabody Stoye Store 
 
 13 Lowell Street. 
 
 F. L-. SEMRS. 
 
 -DEALER IN- 
 
 Cooldng ani Parlor StoYes, Ranges, 
 
 Brick and Portable Hot Air Furnaces, 
 
 Oil Stoves, Tin Ware and House Furnishings. 
 Rubber Hose and Couplings, Water Attachments for Stoves. 
 
 Clothes Wringers, Japanned Ware, 
 
 REFRIGERATORS, 
 
 AND ALL ARTICLES OF KITCHEN FURNISHINGS. 
 
 Tin Roofing and Repairing of all kinds. 
 
HNION LINE S. S. eO. 
 
 River St. John, 
 Indiantown, - St. John, N. B, 
 
 The fine steamers of this hne make daily 
 trips between 
 
 St.J0HN,N.B.,1FREDERICKT0N 
 
 A distance of 84 miles, on the Rhine of 
 America. Fare only ^i.oo. 
 
 B. B HUMPHREY, - Manager. 
 ST^ITH Sd 00., 
 
 Dining and Lunch Rooms, 
 
 256 Essex St., Salem. 
 
 Orders for First-Class Cateririg 
 
 PROMPTLY ATTENDED TO. 
 
 Ice Cream, Pancy Ices and Cakes always on hand. 
 
 256 Essex St., Salem. 
 
ESSF.X HOUSE, 
 
 EVERYTHING FIUST-CLASS. 
 
 Horse Cars for Beverly and Peabodv pass the door. 
 Rates, $2 to 2.50 per day. Dinners 50 cents. 
 
 W. W. Davis, Proprietor. 
 
 J. J. HARTIGAN, 
 HORSE-SHOER 
 
 184 Bridge St., opp. St. Peter St., Salem. 
 
 Telephone TG-S. 
 
 We have every facility in the horpc-shoeing- business in our 
 establishment, for the benefit ot custonieis.' 
 
 N. B. — Dr. Rorkrge Patent Hoof Expander for the 
 prevention of quarter cracks and contraction; also, HOYT'S 
 Cork Horse Shoe and Reidy's Patent Cushion. 
 
 We keep a good supply of German Peat Moss on hand 
 and for sale. It keeps vour horse's feet in a healthy con- 
 dition, both in ihe stable and on the road. Price: large p.iil, 
 $1.50; small pail, $1.0it. 
 
 None but first-class workmen employed. 
 
 Horses sent for and returned to any part of the city. 
 
WflLTSR B, KeZflR, 
 -^HACK.s— 
 
 Boarding and tiYery gtatte. 
 
 So. 7 Warren St., and at the Willows, 
 
 Teams or carriages furnished to drive to any of the 
 points of interest mentioned in this book. 
 
 ST^VrBILiEJ TEJI-.Ejr'HOaSTES CJ-A.L.IL., 
 
 1,01-PMD TYPEwmma 
 
 Does Work Equal to the Most Expensive 
 Machines. 
 
 SPEEDY. PRACTICAL. DURABLE. 
 
 No instruction is needefl for its use, anrl speed is easily- 
 attained by a little practice. 
 
 WORLD (Ddp: WKITES 77 
 TTPEWKITER U)iU OHARAOTEES. 
 
 Catalogue free. Address Typewriter Department, Pope 
 Mfg. Co., Boston, New York, Cliicago. 
 
Caterer I Cor^fectioiier, 
 
 Ice Cream and Wedding Cake a Specialty. 
 
 Catering for societies, fairs, private parties and families on 
 short notice. 
 
 Superior Ice Cream always on hand, also Fresh 
 Cake. 
 
 132 Cabot Street, - - Beverly, Mass. 
 
 Telephone Call, 7&-4. 
 
 BOSTON CROCKERY STORE, 
 
 Importers, Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 
 
 CMna, Crockery, ^m fare, \m% 
 
 And House Furnisliing Goods. 
 
 Newest Styles always in stock. 
 
 216 Essex Street, - . Salem, Mass. 
 
 Next to Merrill & Mackintire's. 
 
 HINDS 5^ 007VYRMNV. 
 
RHOTO-ENGRH^ING. 
 
 Boston Engraving Co.; 
 
 SST' ITx'enaoiit Street, Boston, ]Mass. 
 
 EEllP TLATl REPMDUOIIOSS M PlIOBfiRAPIlS, 
 
 Pen Drawings, Wood Cuts, etc., 
 at low prices, 
 
 EXECTja^ED i:sr quick time. 
 
 jg®=-Estimates furnished on all work in the engraving? line. 
 
 FOR MOOSEHEflD LAKE, 
 Katahdin Iron Works 
 
 AND THE 
 
 HUNTING and FISHING GROUNDS of MAINE. 
 
 THE 
 
 Bangor & Fiscataquis Railroad, 
 
 FROM 
 
 Bangor to Greenville (Foot of the Lake). 
 TWO TRAINS EACH WAY DAILY. 
 
 This is one of the most picturesque sections of New England. 
 
 E. B. NEALLY, Pres., 
 
 ARTHUR BROWN, Supt. 
 
Merchants National Bank 
 
 OF SALEM, MASS. 
 
 James P. Cook, Pres. H. M. Batchelder, Cashier. 
 
 Capital, $200,000 Surplus and Profits, tgo,000. 
 
 S2^F=E DEPOSIT iZ:K\JI-TS. 
 
 Storage for valuable packages. Boxes from ^5 upwards. 
 
 Corner Essex and Washington Streets, 
 
 Salem, IVIass. 
 
 Salen] Electric Lightiijg Company. 
 
 CHAS. H. TRICE, Pres., 
 
 H. M. BATCHELDER, Treas., 
 
 ARTHUR S. TEMPLE, Gen. Man'gr, 
 A. MORRILL, Supi., 
 
 GEO. A. OBER, Electrician. 
 
 ARC AND INCANDESCENT LIGHTING. 
 
 Electric Lighting and Power. 
 
 Office, 19 Peabody St., Salem. 
 
(LKebacco 3{euse at the Zd^'K.z 
 
 i This famous inn, lying within easy driving distance 
 1 of the whole North Shore, has been altered, 
 
 I decorated and refurnished since 
 
 I last Summer. 
 
 The present manager, formerly of the Country Club, 
 intends to maintain the past reputation of Chebacco dir 
 ners and to offer a greater variety to the public. 
 
 Comfortable toilet rooms, plea,sant parlors, gas lights, 
 new dancing floor, open fire places, large piazzas, new boats 
 a covered shed for carriages and a few sleeping rooms ar 
 new features of the house. 
 
 Dinners and breakfasts for parties a specialty. 
 
 For particulars address, by mail or telephone. 
 
 W^M. GEO. W^EDL^OCK, 
 
 Chebacco House, Hamilion, Mass. 
 
 To.lf^phone No. 43-5, 
 
I