^i> "^^0^ ^^^^^ .^" ^ .^ .^^= '-^ \.^^ *^ ^^'''^^^^^""^^ \/:- 'o V *■ ^^0^ Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive in 2011 witii funding from Tine Library of Congress Iittp://www.arcliive.org/details/cruiseoffrigatec01murr CRUISE FRIGATE COLUMBIA AROUND THE WORLD, UNDER THE COMMAND OF COMMODORE GEORGE C. READ, 1838, 1839, AND 1840. By WILLIAM MEACHAM MUERELL, ONE OF THE CREW. BOSTON: BENJAMIN B. MUSSEY, 1840 Entered according to act of Congress, in the year 1840, BY WILLIAM MEACHAM MURRELL, in the clerk's office of the District Court of Massachusetts. ^9f PREFACE. " Nothing extenuate, nor set down Aught in malice.'^ Shakspeare. The author, in presuming to undertake the following work, is perfectly aware of the various difficulties he has to encoun- ter, and by which he is surrounded. He therefore throws himself upon the kind indulgence of his readers, trusting that this, his humble attempt, may stand the test of their judgment. To make it comprehensive as possible, and at the same time entertaining, he 4 PREFACE. will endeavor to describe the situations of the various ports touched at during the cruise, or islands visited, with the customs and manners of their inhabitants. It is absolutely necessary for him to bespeak the kind feeling of the more learned part of his readers, and a can- did perusal of this journal, as it is the first humble production of one unused to literary pursuits or finely turned expres- sions. He therefore begs they will not exam- ine it with too critical an eye, sincerely hoping that his sole object may succeg.d', -—that of contributing to the amusement and information of those who may peruse it ; for even remote and minute events are frequently invested with an interest that is highly gratifying to that curios- PEEFACE, 5 ity of which the human mind is naturally possessed. " Wandering from clime to clime, I observant stray, To note their manners and their states survey." TO MY SHIPMATES. According to your request I have had this journal printed. You all know what it is, — a plain and succinct account of our cruise, with short descriptions of the places we have visited. I am told there may be some who will carp and cavil at my little work. Well, let them. You and I will perhaps be far away on the ocean, so that we shall not hear it ; but to such persons I quote the following lines : " Cease, you jabbering, uncouth railer ; List, my shipmates, all to me ; Messmates, hear a brother sailor Tell of past scenes 'twixt you and me. 1* PREFACE. Those persons on shore, who purchase a copy of it, will be friendly to blue jack- ets, and of course they won't expect it to be written according to scholastic rules, but a plain sailor's story, told in a sailor's style. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Departure — Salutes — Family Thoughts — Speak a Bark — Melancholy Accident — Madeira — Descrip- tion thereof— Sail for Rio— Another Accident, - - 13 CHAPTER II. Make St. Jago — Brief account thereof — Speak a Brig — Cross the Line — Humorous Sketch — Tropi- cal scene at Sea — Speak another Brig — Arrive at Rio — Salutes — Account of Rio — Visits — Invalid Men home — A Death — Leave Rio— Punishment at Sea, - - - - - 23 CHAPTER III. A Death— Funeral at Sea— Speak a Bark— Another Death — Island of Madagascar — Description of — The Eclipse — Swimming — Make the Land — Cru- elty — Arrival at Muscat, 37 CHAPTER IV. Another Death — Arabia — Description of— Customs, Manners, &c.— Bedouins, or roving Arabs— Ma- homet's Tomb — Muscat — Account of— Visit of O CONTENTS. Capt. Calforn— The Imann visits the Ship, his re- ception, &c.— Another Death, - 47 CHAPTER V. Leave Muscat — Arrive at Bombay — Board a Brig — Account of Bombay — An awkward Affair — Hon- esty the best Policy — Description of the Hindoos generally— The Air, Climate, «&c.— The late Tip- poo Saib — Visits— Another Death— Bad Provisions — Leave Bombay for Goa— The Sea-coast, &c. - - 57 CHAPTER VI. Account of Goa — The late Inquisition— Leave the Harbor — Ghaut Mountains— Cape Comorin — The Pearl Fishery — Account of Operations — Make Cey- lon — Anchor at Columbo— Description of Ceylon — The Cinnamon Tree — Talipot Tree — Its various uses — The Cingalese — Arrivals— A very feeling re- mark, 66 CHAPTER VII. Account of Columbo — Adam's Peak — Descriptions of, by a Traveller — Governor's Visit — Unwelcome News — Murder and Piracy on the Coast of Sumatra — Account of the same, 81 CHAPTER VIII. Feelings of the Crew — Leave Columbo — Speak two Ships — Make Sumatra — An unseen Enemy — Ori- gin of Small-pox — Measures adopted for prevention — Death — The Shark — A tit bit — Come to anchor off" Annallaboo— Leave again — Arrive at duallah Battoo— Poadam, the Malay Chief— The Rajah's Conduct— The English Brig, 91 CONTENTS. y CHAPTER IX. Cannonade duallah Baltoo — Come lo terms — Wound- ed Malay — Seize several Proas — Account of Su- matra — Religion, Customs, &c. — The Cassia Tree — Wild Beasts—Leave duallah Battoo— Anchor at Muckie — The tug of War — Cannonade Muckie — Land the Crew— Destroy the Town— The Jack in the Box — Lawful plunder — Leave Muckie for Soo- soo— Death and Burial, 103 CHAPTER X. Soliloquy on Honor — Seize a Proa— Description of— Death — Comments — Leave Soosoo — Poadam — Situ- ation and Character — Another Death — Penang — Arrive at — Account of— Wounded Moor— Sailor's Liberality — Malacca — Account of— Singapore — Es- tablish a Hospital— Description of Singapore — Chi- nese Junks, &c. ------------ 117 CHAPTER XI. Washington's Birth-Day — Missionaries— Divine Wor- ship at Sea— More Deaths — On the Existence of a God — Proofs of the same — A Dying Scene — Chi- nese Admiral's Visit— In a Scrape myself — The Ball — Leave Singapore — -More Deaths — Arrival at Macao — Intelligence — Stop put to Trade by the Chinese, 131 CHAPTER XII. Description of Macao — Deaths — Leave Macao — Toonkoo Bay— Account of Canton— Chinese Cus- toms, &c.— The Bumboat— Death and Epitaph, - 146 CHAPTER XIII. An agreeable Surprise — Loss of a Friend — His Char- acter, &c.-- A sad Accident— Man killed— Fourth 10 CONTENTS. of July— Leave Toonkoo Bay— Caught in a Ty- phoon — Account of the same— Our Losses — Mis- chief done — Sailors' Opinion of the Weather — A very unpleasant Prospect— A Lee Shore — Ship drifting — The Storm breaks— A friendly Opinion, 157 CHAPTER XIV. Island of Formosa — Marines and Mariners — Muster the Watch — Laughable Mistake — Moonlight Scene at Sea — A cruel Scene — The Man overboard — Cross the Meridian— Change the Time — Arithme- tic in Matrimony — Make the Sandwich Islands — Afflicting Scenes of Death during the passage — Arrive at Oahu — Anchor off Honolulu, - - - 169 CHAPTER XV. Salutes, Visits, &c. — The Missionary' — Account of the Sandwich Islands — Description of Honolulu — Man- ners, Customs, Dress, &c, of the Natives — The King's Visit — A short Sketch of Nautical Life, with an unfeeling Transaction, -------- 183 CHAPTER XVI. Moralizing— On Men and Manners— More Deaths — Disagreeable Word — Cure for the Scurvy — My humble Opinion — Principal Diet of the Islanders — Manner of Cooking— John Adams leaky — Whale Ships — Opinion of a Blubber Himter, - - - - 195 CHAPTER XVII. Sail from Honolulu — A False Alarm — A Death — Cross the Equinoctial Line — Off the Marquesas — Arrive at Otaheite — Description of the same — In- habitants — Customs, Dress, Manners, &c. — A Lib- erty Scrape — Dreams not always realized, - - - 204 OFFICERS ATTACHED TO THE U. S, FRIGATE COLUMBIA. GEORGE C. EEAD, Commodore. George A. Magruder, 1st Lieutenant, John W. Turk, 2d Lieutenant. J. S. Palmer, Sd Lieutenant. Joseph W. Revere, 4tJi Lieutenant. A. M. Pennock, Acting Lieutenant. D. D. Baker, Lieutenant of Marines. G. F. Macauley, Purser. J. W. Taylor, Chaplain. John Haslett, Surgeon. Edward Jenkins, Acting Sailing Master.' Edward W. Cole, ^ Richard J. Hakrison, \^'''* Surgeons. Hiram Belcher, Prof, of Mathematics. John Clar, Commodore'' s Clerk, 12 OFFICERS. MidsliipmeiiL. D. Ross Crawford, ^ James McComick, S ^"'' ^^^'^^P^'^- R. M. Barney, Charles Sinclair, John L. Toomer, Wm. B. Fitzgerald, Thomas L. Kinlock, Charles Fauntleroy, Charles R. Smith, J. Dorsey Read, James M. Duncan, William A. Henry. William M. Green, Forward Officers. John Mills, Boatswain. John Martin, Gunner. Benjamin Crow, Sailmaker. Thomas Johnson, Carpenter. Manuel de Morcia, Purser'^s Steward. CRUISE COLUMBIA CHAPTER L Adieu ! my native land, adieu ! The A^essel spreads her flowing sails ; Perhaps I never more maj^ view Yom- fertile fields, your flowery dales. Scotch Sojn"G. Departure— Salutes — Family Thoughts — Speak a Bark — Melancholy Accident— Madeira — Description thereof — Sail for Rio — Another Accident. Our frigate being manned, and having com- pleted our necessary arrangements, the day of our departure at length arrived, and we left the land of our forefathers to traverse the path- less main and seek foreign climes. We got under way from Hampton Koads on the 6th May, 1838, where we had been laying for some days previous, our consort, the John Adams, commanded by Capt. Thomas Wyman, 2 14 FAMILY THOUGHTS. in company, with a fine breeze from the north- ward and westward, bound to the island of Madeira, our first destined port. On the same afternoon the pilot, having completed his duties, left us, and went away loaded with letters and commissions of various kinds to the respective relatives and friends of the crew. A short time after his departure, the John Adams saluted the flag of our commodore, according to the etiquette of the naval ser- vice, which was returned by us. We con- tinued on our course, with favorable breezes and pleasant weather, our time actively em- ployed in the various duties allotted us, with no other care upon our minds than the thoughts of those dear relatives and friends whom we had so recently left, perhaps never more to behold. Where is the man so cold-hearted that does not love his country ? It is not the earth, the mere insensate clod, that forms the bond; it is the associations of our youth, our manhood, and even our ancestry, which bind us with such intensity. Never may those feelings be eradicated from the human heart ; still dear to us be the home, however bleak, where first we lifted up our eyes to heaven, and our young lips were taught to lisp the name of God ; still SPEAK A BARK. 15 dear be the sunny vale, the barren heath, or shrubless mountain, where we wandered in our youth ; and dear be the sohtary aisle or the small desolated church-yard, where lie the earthly relics of our ancestors, who lived and died in the same valleys a hundred years ago. I could but reflect occasionally on the length of time which had to pass away ere I should again be blessed with the cheering smiles or affectionate caresses of those I had left behind ; but hope, which ever encourages the soul of man in the hour of adversity, cheered me with the pleasurable feelings of that day once more returning, however distant the period might be. On the 18th inst. we descried a sail, which we spoke. It proved to be the American bark John A. Robb, then sixteen days out from Havre de Grace, and bound to Baltimore. A boat was despatched for the purpose of gaining any recent news. On the return of the boat, after wishing them a pleasant passage, we parted company, and each ship pursued her course. At times, when the breez.es freshened, I could but take particular notice of the stormy petrel, or Mother Carey's chickens, as they are technically called by the weather-beaten mariner, scudding along with every stitch of 16 MELANCHOLY ACCIDENT. their canvass set, at the rate of a nine-knot breeze ; or, when the weather was fine, to watch the silvery flying-fish, in small shoals, winging their short and sparkling flight by the ship. Several of the latter were found entan- gled among the rigging. These to me were al- ways pleasing contemplations, and relieved the dull monotony of sea life. Nothing of any interest occurred until the 24th inst. when we had the misfortune to lose one of the crew by a lamentable accident. John Kemp, seaman, unfortunately fell from the maintop-gallant yard, while assisting to furl the sail, and was instantaneously killed ; not a breath or sigh escaping his lips, at thus being launched into eternity and the presence of his Maker. The horror and consternation depicted on the countenances of those around who had been observers of this unlooked-for calamity, can be much better imagined than described. The unfortunate deceased was a promising young man, about 24 years of age, who, from the affability of his disposition, was held high in the estimation of his shipmates, and had also gained the good-u'ill of his officers by his cheer- ful alacrity when called to any duty. It was but a fevv' moments before the accident took MADEIRA. 17 place which cut him short in his youthful ca- reer, that he was cajoling with his shipmates, and smiling at the jokes which were passing around, — mirth soon to be changed to melan- choly and gloom. He was talking of his home and distant friends. Little did he imagine that home to him was to be as a blank space on the earth, and all ties of kindred were so soon to be cut asunder till time shall be no more. While he was giving himself away to these pleasing and natural reflections, the pale king of terrors, with his malignant dart, had poised his deadly weapon to strike his victim and convey him to that bourne from whence no traveller returns. On the following morning the boatswain and his mates, with a cheerless and dreary sound of voice, summoned all hands to " bury the dead." The mournful utterance of the order coincided strongly with the cause it arose from. His remains were conveyed to the lee gang- way by his messmates, and launched into the abyss of the deep, after the usual service had been performed over them by the reverend chaplain. On the following day we made the island of Madeira, at a view which was extremely pic- turesque and romantic ; but it not being deemed 2* 18 DESCPwIPTION OF MADEIRA. prudent to run for the anchorage in Fun- chal Roads, as the day was then on the de- cline, we laid the ship oif during the night ; and, making sail at dayhreak, we stood in and an- chored. The John Adams arrived shortly af- terwards, and followed our example. After furling the sails and squaring the yards, hauling the running rigging taut, and flemishing the same down on the deck with that neatness and precision which is ever cus- tomary in ships of this description, the Portu- guese colors were hoisted at the fore, and a salute fired, which was returned by the forts ashore. This island is situated in the Atlantic ocean, in 32° 34' north latitude, and from 18° 30' to 19° 30' west longitude. It is composed of one continual hill of a considerable height, extend- ing from east to west, the declivity of which on the south side is cultivated, and interspersed with vineyards ; and in the midst of this slope the merchants have fixed their country seats, which form a very agreeable prospect. There is but one considerable town in the whole island, off which our ships came to an anchor, named Funchal, seated on the south part of the island, at the bottom of a large bay. Towards the sea it is defended by a high wall, DESCRIPTION OF MADEIRA. 19 with a battery of cannon, and is the only place where it is possible for a boat to land ; and even here the beach is covered with large stones, and a violent surf continually beats up- on it. This town is situated on the gentle ascent of the first hills, in the form of an amphitheatre. The houses are buiit of freestone or brick, but they are dark, and only a few of the best, be- longing to the English merchants or the princi- pal inhabitants, are provided with glass win- dows ; all the others having a kind of lattice- work in their stead, which hang upon hinges, and maybe lifted up occasionally. The air in general on the island is mild and salubrious, and is strongly recommended by the faculty to the invalid for restoration of health, when change of clime is deemed neces- sary ; so that of late years it has been a place of great resort by those v/ho have been advised to seek it for that purpose. Flowers nursed in the English greenhouses grow wild here in the fields, and the hedges are mostly formed of the rose, jasmine, myrtle, and honeysuckle ; while the larkspur, fleur-de- lis, and lupin spring up spontaneously in the fields. There are very few re})tiles to be seen on the island, the lizard being the most com- 20 ANOTHER ACCIDENT. mon. Its wine, which derives its name from the island, is in the highest estimation, espe- cially such as has been a voyage to the East or West Indies, as it matures best in the hottest climates. The fruits, which are most delicious, are oranges, lemons, and pomegranates : the pro- ducts are corn, honey, and wax. The island abounds also with boars and other wild beasts, and with all sorts of fowls, besides numerous groves of cedar trees, and those that yield mastic and other gums. During our stay in this port we were honor- ed by a visit from the Portuguese viceroy, or civil governor of the island, who was received with a salute, and shown through the ship. He also visited our consort, the John Adams, where he met with a similar reception. June 3d, we once more got under way, with our consort, and proceeded to sea, bound to Rio de Janeiro, our next destined port, fa- vored with fine favorable breezes and pleasant weather. I have to note an accident which took place a few days after we had left the beautiful island of Madeira, which might have been attended with more serious consequences as to the re- sult. LUCKY BAG. 21 It being a standing rule of the ship to exer- x^ise the crew at the great guns, providing more emergent duties did not intervene to prevent the same, at least once a week, during the time on this particular day they were undergoing and performing the same, the captain of gun No. 7 (for each gun has its captain) was se- verely wounded by the sudden explosion of a powder-horn which was slung around his neck, and with which he was in the act of priming his gun, at the same time slightly wounding several others who were stationed at the same gun with him. The wounded persons were immediately placed under the charge of the doctor and assistants, who found it necessary to deprive the captain of one of his fingers by amputation. The wounds of the others not being so severe, they underwent the usual treat- ment, by which they were enabled, in the course of a few days, to resume their duties, grateful the accident was no worse, and exclaiming, with the true spirit of patriotism, '^ Next time give me scars of a more honorable nature." I was this day also witness to a curious scene. The master's mate of each deck goes round collecting all stray clothes, which are delivered to the master-at-arms, who has in his department a large bag called the "lucky 22 LUCKY BAG. bag: " the name is not so inappropriate, for it is generally so luckj as to be well filled. At the beginning of the month, or earlier, as the occasion may suit, it is brought up to the main- mast (that being the place appropriated for a settlement of accounts, or paying all back ra- tions.) and the owners, if their names are on them, get them again, with a few lashes for their carelessness in leaving them about the decks. CHAPTER II. The man doomed to sail, with the blast of the gale, O'er billows Atlantic to steer, As he bends o'er the wave which may soon be his grave,- The green sparkles bright with the tear. Byron. Make St. Jago— Brief account thereof— Speak a Brig — Cross the Line — Humorous Sketch — Tropical scene at Sea — Speak another Brig— Arrive at Rio — Salutes — Account of Rio — Visits — Invalid Men — Home — A Death — Leave Rio— Punishment at Sea. On the 12th June we discovered land on the larboard bow, which proved to be St. Jago, one of the Cape de Verd islands, and at the same time one of the most fertile of them. These islands were first discovered in the year 1460, by the Portuguese, and are about twenty in number ; but some of them being only barren, uninhabitable rocks, are scarcely worth notice. They are inhabited by Europe- ans, or, generally speaking, Europeans and ne- groes. The island of St. Jago is the residence of the Portuguese viceroy, and is about 150 miles 24 CROSS THE LINE. in circumference ; yet it is mountainous, and has much barren land in it. The plant which grows here, of the most consequence to the na- tives, is the madder, which is found in abun- dance among the cliffs ; but as we did not call in herCj it would be an impossibility for me to give any further description of it. On the following morning we came up with and spoke a Genoese brig, but they being as much unacquainted with our language as we were with theirs, we could not derive any in- formation from whence she came or to what port bound ; so we pursued our course, the brig adopting the same plan. On the 27th June we crossed the equinoctial line ; and here my readers must excuse me in making a short digression from the present subject, to give an account of the ceremony of shaving, as usually adopted at this particular time, although it was not performed on board the frigate ; which was as much regret and dis- appointment to many of our crew as it was of pleasure to those novices who had never cross- ed the boundaries of Neptune's dominions be- fore, and who consequently escaped those ceremonies which I was obliged to undergo myself some years before, when on a voyage to the Mauritius, and an account of which I here subjoin for the amusement of my readers. HUMOROUS SKETCH. 25 On the evening previous to the day on which we crossed the line, our \^essel was calmly floating on the unruffled bosom of the deep, and I sitting on some spare spars, gazing thoughtfully on the setting sun. I was sud- denly started from my meditations by the cry of " a sail ahead, — halloo — Neptune — Neptune ahoy," and on proceeding to the spot from whence the hailing took place, and looking in a certain direction, I perceived a large tar bar- rel flaming on the ocean, which had been pur- posely set on fire and ejected into the sea, and then gliding past our vessel. On making inquiries respecting this curious scene, I was given to understand it was the royal barge of the venerable watery god, who had announced his intention of coming on board next morning to superintend the shaving of such of his children as had not previously entered into the southern part of his domin- ions. Next morning, accordingly this august per- sonage made his appearance on board about half past nine, A. M. His dress consisted of a buff'alo's hide, with such other varieties as could be procured on board, added to an iron- crowned, hoary-bearded mask, which render- ed him a very grotesque figure. With him 3 26 HUMOROUS SKETCH. came a gigantic, white-robed mariner, some- thing resembhng an old weather-beaten woman, intending to represent his cara sposa, Amphi- trite, followed by several others, personating attendants and constables, all bearing their rods of office, and decorated in a ludicrous and singular manner. Next followed in the train the important barber and his attendants. After parading round the decks with all due ceremony, the procession halted opposite the cabin door, where his godship was welcomed by the captain and his officers, and accepted the offer of a glass of spirits ; nor had his fair spouse any hesitation in swallowing a potent draught of the inspiring nectar, and that too without making wry faces. When the barber, who did not fear to exhibit his huge razor, and several others had paid their devotions at the shrine of Bacchus, they all proceeded to the lee waist, where was prepared a tarred topsail, supported at the four corners by corresponding stanchions and filled to the brim with the salt water of the tropical ocean, a covered throne for Neptune and his exquisite consort, a scaf- folding for the barber and his suite, and a nar- row plank across the reservoir, on which those unenviable individuals were to be seated who were destined to undergo the ceremony of shaving, of whom I was one. HUMOROUS SKETCH. 27 At this moment the cries of " Bring forth my children/' " bring forth my sons," indicated to the anxious beings below that all was in readi- ness to commence the business of the day ; and immediately several of these horrible-looking constables came to lead me, blindfolded, and with no very quick step on my part, to the place of execution. No sooner had I gained the summit of the companion ladder than a de- luge of salt water from innumerable buckets was unceremoniously discharged into my face. In this state, panting and almost breathless, I rushed forwards with much exertion, dragging these uncouth myrmidons along with me, till I came to the foot of the ladder, which led to the plank crossing the cistern. This I ascended with some difficulty, amidst the cheering of the merciless sailors, and took my seat on the tot- tering plank and awaited in anxious expecta- tion the dreadful result of all this ceremony. I had not sat long in this position ere a rough brush, every hair of which seemed to be formed of a porcupine's quill, saluted my chin, then a sharp toothed saw, intended to repre- sent a razor, a tar-brush well soaked in tar was drawn over my hair, by w^ay of Macassor oil or sweet scented pomatum ; the frail plank on which I was seated was then drawn from un- 28 TROPICAL SCENE AT SEA. der me, and I was plunged into the abyss be- low. I rushed up the side of the cistern, al- most blind and distracted with pain arising from the tar rushing into my eyes, made a sud- den rush, capsizing her most sacred majesty Amphitrite in my exit, over into a cask of slush or grease, which had been placed near to answer the purpose of lather, and finally suc- ceeded in making my escape. Notwithstanding all this roughing I contriv- ed to preserve my good humor, and when I had recovered myself a little, I was amongst the first to salute my hapless shipmates who next made their appearance. That evening was employed in draining the goblet and sing- ing the song. In these latitudes the sun rises from the ocean in great splendor, and gilds the clouds accumulated in the horizon ; which, in grand and various groups, seem to present to the eye of the spectator continents with high mountains and valleys, with volcanoes and seas, mytholo- gical and other strange creations of fancy. The lamp of day gradually mounts in the transparent blue sky, the damp, gray fogs sub- side, the sea is calm, or gently rises and falls with a surface smooth as a mirror, in a regular motion. TROPICAL SCENE AT SEA. 29 At noon, a pale, faintly shining cloud rises, the herald of a sudden tempest, which at once disturbs the tranquillity of the sea. Thunder and lightning- seem as if they would split our planet; but a heavy rain pouring down in the midst of squalls, puts an end to the raging of the elements, and several semicircular rain- bows, extended over the ocean like gay trium- phal arches, and multiplied in the wrinkled surface of the water, announce the termination of this great natural phenomenon. As soon as the air and sea have recovered their equilibrium, the sky shows again its trans- parent azure, swarms of flying-fish leap sport- ingly over the surface of the water, and the ma- ny-colored natives of the ocean, among which is the shark and its two inseparable compan- ions, come up from the bottom of the deep, which is transparent to the depth of a hundred fathoms. As the sun gradually sinks in the clouded horizon, sea and sky assume a new dress, which is beyond description sublime and mag- nificent ; the most brilliant red, yellow and vio- let in infinite shades and contrast are poured out in profusion o'er the azure of the firma- ment, and reflected in still greater variety from the surface of the water, 3* 30 ARRIVE AT RIO, The day departs amidst continual lightnings in the dusky horizon, while the moon in silent majesty rises from the unhounded ocean into the cloudless upper regions. Variable winds cool the atmosphere, numerous falling stars, coming particularly from the south, shed a magic light ; the dark blue firmament reflected with the constellations on the untroubled bosom of the water, represent the image of the whole starry hemisphere, and the ocean, agitated even by the faintest breeze of the night, is changed into a sea of uneven fires. On the Sth July we came up with and spoke a Portuguese brig, named the Bastamento, out 27 days from Monte Video, and on the afterr- noon of the same day, being in one of my usual reflective moods, my thoughts wandering to the scenes of my earlier years, 1 was suddenly aroused from my revery by a voice from aloft, which would have done credit to the lungs of a stentor, exclaiming, " Land ho ! " " Where away ? " was immediately asked by the oflicer of the watch ; and the desired inform.ation be- ing received, it was found to be the coast of Brazil. On the following morn we descried Cape Frio lighthouse, bearing per compass W. J N. Every necessary preparation was then made for ACCOUNT OF RIO. . 81 going into port, and on the 10th inst. we came to an anchor in the harhor of Rio cie Janeiro, with our consort, the John Adams, after a pleas- ant passage of five weeks from Madeira. We found the harbor full of shipping, in- cluding several men of war. Amongst the lat- ter was the U. S. ship Fairfield, commanded by Capt. Mayo, who fired a salute, which was returned by us ; we at the same time saluting the Brazilian flag, as also the British and French admiral, whose respective ships were lying in the harbor, and who during our stay in this port visited our ship. The town of Rio, or St. Sebastian, is a rich and populous city. It is situated in 42° 44' west longitude, and 22° 54' south latitude. It stands on the west side of the harbor, and the population is estimated by intelligent travellers at 150,000; but it is difficult to ascertain its real number. It is large and w^ell built, and about three miles in circumference. The houses in general are of stone, two stories high, and each of them have, after the manner of the Portuguese, a little balcony before its windows, and a lattice of wood before the balcony. The streets are straight and of a convenient breadth, intersecting each other at right angles. It stands, however, upon low ground, which 32 VISITS. formerly was swampy, and is surrounded by hills of vast height, which exclude the benefit of the refreshing- sea and land breezes ; so that it is of course exceedingly hot and unhealthy in the summer time. The common produce of the country, and of which it has an extensive trade, is cotton, cof- fee, sugar, rice and tobacco. There is also annually exported from hence gold and silver, in addition to many precious stones. Vines also grow in great perfection, but are not suf- fered to be pressed for wine. The harbor is well adapted for those ships to put in that may stand in need of supplies. It is under the Brazilian government, and in the year ISOS was the regal seat of Don Pedro ; but he shortly afterwards abdicated in favor of his son, then a minor, and returned to Europe. We were occasionally visited by the charge d'affaires of different nations, and they were ever received with those polite attentions which are usually shown in the naval service towards the delegates of another nation. A few days after our arrival the French ad- miral's ship got under way, and proceeded to sea. With our usual promptitude we despatch- ed the boats, to afford any assistance that might be required in aiding them to turn out of the harbor. A DEATH — LEAVE HIO. 33 Several of our crew were sent from the frig- ate to the U. S. sliip Fairfield, for a temporary removal, until sent home in a merchant ship, as invalids, it being deemed the most advisable, as they had been suffering from sickness for some time, and their remaining strength quite inadequate to undergo the arduous duties at- tendant on a mariner's life, in addition to the various changes of climate their shattered frames would be absolutely compelled to visit during the cruise. On the 27th we lost one of the crew, by the death of John Davis, seaman, who had been shipped but a few days previously, and who died of delirium tremens, the usual finale of ex- cessive inebriety. On the same day our consort — the John Adams — having received her orders to that effect, got under way, and proceeded to sea, bound to Zanguebar, on the coast of Africa; and on the 29th we followed her, bound to Mus- cat, — the British flag ship and United States' ship Fairfield kindly sending their boats to afford us any assistance we might require in leaving the harbor, which, however, we ef- fected without any difiiculty. A light, favora- ble breeze springing up, the necessary sail was 30on made, the ship skimming lightly along on 34 PUNISHMENT AT SEA. the smooth-faced surface of the deep, and in the course of a short time the o;reat and com- mercial city of Rio was scarcely perceptible, and appeared but as a dim speck in the dis- tance. This morning, at 10, A. M. all hands were called to witness punishment ; and, however irksome or unpleasant a scene of this descrip- tion is, to the sensitive mind, every order in the naval service must be implicitly obeyed. On proceeding to the spar-deck, I discov- ered the gratings were rigged. These articles are lashed securely down to the deck, to which the feet of the delinquent are made fast, while his hands are firmly secured to the hammock netting. The quarter-masters were standing near the spot of punishment, ready to seize up or fasten the culprit. The boatswain and his mates, with a small bag, containing those instru- ments of torture called the cats, were also pres- ent. All the officers were on the quarter-deck with their side-arms ; and tlie marines drawn out, headed by their commanding officer. The culprits stood at the mainmast, in their best bib and tucker, in charge of the master-at-arms, and the corporal of the marine guard, who hap- pended to be on duty. The commodore, on being informed that all was in readiness, now PUNISHMEJN^T AT SEA. 35 approached the unfortunate delinquents with a stern brow and rigid countenance, which seemed to have shut out all compassion. After naming their offences against the rules, and discipline of the service, they were punished with twelve lashes each. I do not wish to speak against this discipline, as I am led to believe these persons got themselves into the scrape for which they suffered. Two of them were punished for thieving, which every one will allow deserved chastisement. How differ- ent the case of a poor marine, whose back was absolutely cut to pieces, while our ship was laying at Norfolk, for an offence of the most trivial nature ! The commodore on this occa- sion was absent from the ship, and the unfor- tunate marine was reported to his commanding officer, who, contrary to the rules of the ser- vice, ordered the poor fellow to strip, and, not satisfied with using the cats, the usual instru- ment of punishment, whipped him over his naked back and shoulders with a colt. The colt is a piece of hard twisted rope, about the size of a man's fore finger, which not only scarified, but absolutely brought out a piece of flesh with every blow that was struck. Let me here appeal to the hearts of all, even to the most degenerate man : was not a scene like this suf- 36 PUNISHMENT AT SEA* ficient to harrow up every feeling, and freeze the very blood in our veins ; — to behold a wretch, destitute of any feeling for a fellow- creature, to have power placed in his hands, so as to enable him to torment those under his command ; — a wretch, deaf to all feelings of hu- manity, unworthily abusing that power, which perhaps would have been an honor in the hands of a humane and worthy officer 1 , The winds continued favorable, accompa- nied with pleasant weather for several days after our departure, when it ceased, and we were occasionally visited with heavy squalls of rain, thunder, and lightning, and not unfre- quently a high and heavy sea running. At these times, our bark glided majestically through the troubled waters, proudly dashing aside their angry spray. CHAPTER IIL The ship, being rocked by the roai-ing wind, He, — a tempest both in bodj' and in mind — Slowly closed his ej-es upon the ocean foam, And deemed that deep his last long home. AUTHOK. A Death— Funeral at Sea— Speak a Bark— Another Death — Island of Madagascar^Description of — The Eclipse— Swimming — Make the Land — Cruelt}^ — Ar- . rival at Muscat. _ On the lltli August, one of the crew de- parted this life, named Thomas McLean. He had been sick from the time we had left the United States, and never expected to recover, therefore he v/as perfectly resigned to that fate which cut asunder the thread of his mortal existence. On the following morning, his re- mains were committed to the deep, with the usual funeral ceremonies. A scene of this description, is ever calculated to impress the mind with rehgious awe from its solemnity, and attendant circumstances. At the appointed time, the boatswain and his mates summon all hands to bury the dead, 4 38 FUNERAL AT SEA — SPEAK A BARK. not in the tone usually adopted on other occa- sions, but in a more dolorous strain. The crew immediately proceed to the spar or upper deck, and shortly afterwards the corpse is brought up from below, by the messmates of the deceased, and laid on a plank at the lee gangway, resting on the ship's rail and supported up by the same, ready for immersion overboard. The reverend chaplain commences the funeral service, all heads being uncovered, perfect silence reigning around, not the slightest noise disturbing the stillness and solemnity of the scene, save now and then the screech of the wild sea mew, or the roar of the waves as they break against the vessePs hull. The service drawing to a conclusion at that part where the minister says, " Earth to earth," and " dust to dust," the inner end of the plank is elevated, and the corpse slides off; one heavy splash is heard, and the waves close over it till time shall be no more, and the sea yields up its dead. On the day of McLean's funeral, we came up ^vith and spoke an English bark, bound from London to Sydney, New South Wales, We hove our ship to, and allowed her boat to come along side, and her captain came on board. Having stated that he was ill supplied ANOTHER DEATH — MADAGASCAR. 39 with a few necessary articles, which he named, on account of the long passao;e he had met with, he was supplied according to the nature of his wants, and his hoat left. Made sajl, and continued on our voyage, profiting by a favor- ahle breeze. We had to part with another of the crew on thel4th inst. in the person of Owen Monk, (corporal of marines,) who had been lingering for some weeks with consumption. He bore the pangs and privations of a mortal illness with unshrinking fortitude, relying, in his last moments, upon the mercy of that God whose divine Son died to save all, with whom we trust he is now enjoying the reward of the righteous. On the following morning, the funeral ser- vice was read over the remains of the deceased, and they were committed to the fathomless deep. From this period, our time passed on as usual, following our customary avocations, the weather at times boisterous and unpleasant, un- til we were off the island of Madagascar, which we made on the 29th inst. bearing, per com- pass, NW. by W. J W. ; and from the descrip- tion given by late navigators, (however the accu- racy of the statement may be depended upon,) 40 DESCRIPTION OF MADAGASCAR. is one of the largest and most fertile islands in 'j the world. It is situated between 43 and 51 ^ degrees of east longitude, and between 12 and 26 south latitude, 300 miles southeast of the continent of Africa, it being nearly 1000 miles from north to south in length, and generally *J between 200 and 309 miles broad. The sea rolls with great rapidity, and is extremely rough between this island and the continent of Africa, forming a channel or pas- sage through which all European ships, in their voyage to and from India, generally sail, unless prevented by storms. Madagascar is a pleasant, desirable, and fer- tile country, and, from its products, gives abun- dant indications that nature has here scattered her riches with no stinting hand. There is a chain of glorious mountains winding through its entire length, of varied height, where many large and navigable rivers take their source. It affords also an agreeable variety of hills, valleys, and woods. The air is healthy, and generally temperate, though in a hot climate. The inhabitants are of diiferent complexions and religions, — -some white, some negroes, some Mahommedans, some pagans. The whites, and those of a tawny complex- ion, who inhabit the coasts, are descended ECLIPSE. 41 from the Arabs, as is evident from their lan- guage and religious rites ; but here are no mosques, no temples, nor any stated worship, except that they offer sacrifices of beasts on particular occasions, — as when sick, when they plant yams or rice, when they hold their assemblies, circumcise their children, declare war, enter into new-built houses, or bury their dead. Some of their ceremonies and prac- tices resemble the Jewish, whence it is conjec- tured they are descended from Jews, who for- merly settled here, though no one knows how or when. This island was first discovered by the Por- tuguese, in the year 1492. The French have made several attempts to settle here, but were always repelled by the natives. There seems nothing wanting but knowledge to place this iaro;e and beautiful island in the rank of o^reat and powerful empires, but that want is eyery thing. About a week after we had lost sight of the island of Madagascar, we made another, called Rodriguez ; but it being a place of little or no note, I cannot give any description of it. At 8, P. M. on the 3d of October, my atten- tion was suddenly called away from other objects, to notice an eclipse of the moon, two 4* 42 SWIMMING. thirds of its disk being obscured. An occur- rence of this description affords an excellent opportunity to the navigator, to find the true and exact situation of the ship. Our latitude was found to be 14° 02' south, and longitude by the eclipse, 66^ 47' east. At this time, we for the most part experi- enced moderate breezes and extremely sultry weather, the thermometer being 87° in the shade, and 110° in the sun. The men in the evening were allowed to go overboard for a bath, providing the weather was favorable. A sail was arranged alongside, to prevent any accident taking place to the young practitioner in the very useful art of swimming. At 3, A. M. on the 14th inst. v/lien all nature was hushed in silence, disturbed only at intervals by the snores of my slumbering shipmates, who had stretched themselves on the deck, on account of the excessive heat preventing them from sleeping below, the' bright moon just sinking below the horizon, and the glittering stars twinkling around, — at this particular time, our attention was called to a small, dark speck on the ocean, which we could not make out ; but as the same ap- proached us, we had to use the virtue of pa- tience by awaiting the arrival of the same. ARABIAN DORIO. 43 On its nearer approach, it was discovered to be an Arabian dorio : she was hailed, and we received a reply which w^ould have confused Dr. Johnson himself, putting us to a complete nonplus, as they spoke in Arabic. Having on board a native of Bombay, acting in the capacity of servant, on his return to his native country, the lungs of the boatswain's mates were put in full force to call him. In the course of a few moments he made his appearance on the quarter-deck, rubbing his eyes, half asleep and half awake, and stretch- ing himself with long-protracted yawns, won- dering why he had been disturbed from his nocturnal slumbers to appear before his supe- riors, and that too almost in a state of nudity, as in his hurry he had forgotten to put on his outer garments, so that his limbs were gently fanned by the morning breeze. Being made acquainted with the requisition for his services on this particular occasion, he soon mounted himself at the gangway, with the speaking- trumpet in one hand, the other being fully occupied in holding down that part of the dress which is so essentially necessary to de- cency. Then, as if proud of his situations he threw himself into a theatrical attitude, which would have done credit to a Cooke or Kemble, 44 MAKE THE LAND — CRUELTY. exclaiming now, ''I peak dat fellow." The scene exhibited would, in reality, have excited the risible muscles of the most perfect stoic, not only from the part he enacted with his various gestures, but the oddity of the lan- guage, in full play, between him and the crew of the dorio. We soon, however, came to a proper under- standing through the medium of our interpret- er, who informed us she was out from Muscat and bound to Bombay, loaded with dates and other fruits, the produce of Arabia. On the ensuing day, we discovered high land on the coast of Arabia, one of the head lands, named the Devil's Gap, bearing, per compass, SW. J S. Naturally anxious to get into port, after the long passage we had met with from Rio, we were prevented from attaining our wish, in consequence of light baffling airs and calms, until the 17th, when, having received an Arabian pilot on board, we stood in for the harbor, and came to an anchor at Muscat, after eighty days' passage from Rio de Janeiro. A few days previous to our arrival at Mus- cat, the ship's company had been put on an allowance of water, and however requisite in many cases this restriction might be necessary, yet, in the present case, it was entirely needless, ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT. , 45 as the ship was within a fev/ days' sail of her port, and at that time had upwards of thir- ty thousand gallons of that essential article of life on hoard. That quantity, upon an averaged computation, was sufficient for two months, at an allo^Yance of five hundred gal- lons per day. Here we were, with a scorching sun over our heads, famishing with thirst ; and yet, two days before our arrival, seven hun- dred gallons of water Avere taken to scrub and cleanse the paint-work of the ship, previ- ous to her arrival. The half-famished mari- ners actually drinking the soap suds, and fight- ing amongst themselves to obtain the first draught. Does not humanity shudder at the idea of this unjustifiable and thoughtless act upon the part of the ofiicers, or more properly the executive officer of the ship, in whose sole hands the authority of allowing more water was vested ? Landsmen would not credit the various scenes of cruelty and tyrannic oppres- sion I have been an eye-witness to, as well as a partial sufferer ; the present case is only a part, and not to be compared to others, which were done by these " gentlemen of the epau- lette," during the cruise, and which I shall note as they happened. On our arrival, we were informed that the 46 ARRIVAL AT MUSCAT. John Adams had been here, and left ag-ain for Bombay. After having furled the sails and put every thing in its proper place and position, the sultan's flag was hoisted at the fore, and we fired a salute of twenty-one gunSj which was duly returned by the forts ashore. CHAPTER IV. What is life ? tis but a madness. What is life ? A wild illusion, Fleeting shadow, fond delusion, Short-lived joy that ends in sadness. Whose most steadfast substance seei But the dream of other dreams. Anonymous. Another Death — Arabia — Description of— Customs, Manners, &c. — Bedouins, or roving Arabs— Mahom- et's Tomb— Muscat— Account of — Visit of Capt. Cal- forn — The Imaun visits the Ship, his reception, &c. — Another Death. As the rumbling noise of the last gun fired, and the echo of the same, \yhich was responded by the gigantic mountains by which we were surrounded, was still upon our ears, and the smoke of the same winding along in a graceful curve on the surface of the water, — -at that mo- ment the spirit of another of my shipmates was wafted away, with that dying sound, to the presence of his heavenly Creator. The individual alluded to was an elderly man, named John Clark, (quarter gunner,) who was taken ill but a few moments previous 48 ANOTHER DEATH ARABIA, to his death. He appeared to enjoy his usual heahh at the earlier part of the day, ar.d pur- sued the usual course of his duty. At the time this melancholy incident took place, the heat of the atmosphere was most oppressive, the thermometer being SO'^ in the shade, and 110° in the sun. From sLd)sequent inquiries, I ascertained that, notwithstanding the oppressive heat of the weather, the unfortunate man had carelessly exposed himself, by attending to his duties bareheaded in the heat of the sun, and to which cause his consequent death is attrib- uted. On the following morning, his remains were conveyed on shore for interment. A few of the petty officers and his messmates, attending the same to the peaceful, silent grave. Arabia, in which Muscat is situated, on the sea coast, has always preserved its ancient name. The word Arab, it is generally said, signifies a robber or freebooter. These names justly belong to the Arabians ; for they seldom let any merchandise pass through the country without extorting something from the owners, if they do not rob them. The mountains of Horeb and Sinai, men- tioned in the holy Scriptures, lie in Arabia DESCRIPTION OF ARABIA. 49 Petrae, and may be termed as belonging to the principal natural curiosities. From Mount Sinai may be seen Mount Horeb, where Moses kept the flocks of Jethro, his father-in-law, when he saw the burning bush, and on the former he received the ten commandments. On these mountains are many chapels and cellsj and the Mahometans hold this spot in great veneration. The Christians have a monastery built here, which is possessed by Latin monks, who, like the religious at Jerusalem, pretend to show the very spot where every miracle or transaction recorded in Scripture happened. It is surrounded by a high wall, and the visiters, who go in and out, are let down and drawn up by baskets ; and, from the various articles shown, v/ith the ex- planations given by the monks, and the infor- mation derived by the visiters, it reminds me of those beautiful lines, as expressed by Byron, who says, Holy ground ; No earth of thine is lost in vulgar mould, But one vast realm of wonder spreads around. And all the Muses' tales seem truly told, Till the sense aches with gazing to behold. The Arab'ans, like most of the nations of Asia, are of a middle stature, thin, and of a 5 50 THE BEDOUINS. swarthy complexion, with black hair and black eyes. They are swift of foot, excellent horse- men, and are said to be, in general, a martial, brave people, expert at the bow and the lance, and since they became acquainted with the use of firearms, good marksmen. The inhabit- ants of the inland country live in tents, and remove from place to place with their flocks and herds. The habit of the roving Arabs, (a few of whom visited our ship,) termed the Bedouins, is a kind of blue shirt, tied about them with a sash or girdle ; they also wear drawers, and sometimes slippers, but no stockings, and have a cap or turban on their head. Many of them go almost naked ; but the women are so wrapped up that nothing can be seen but their eyes. The most useful animals in Arabia are cam- els and dromedaries : they are most amazingly fitted by Providence for traversing the dry and parched deserts of this country, for they are so formed that they can throw up water from their stomachs into their throats, by which means they can travel six or eight days with- out water. A camel will usually carry about eight hundred pounds weight upon its back, which is not taken off during the journey ; for Mahomet's tobib. 51 they naturally kneel down to their rest, and in due time rise with their load. The Arabians, in general, are such thieves, that travellers and pilgrims are struck with terror on approaching the deserts. These robbers, headed by a captain, trav- erse the country on horseback, and plunder and assault the caravans. The air of Arabia is excessively hot and dry, and the country is subject to hot, pesti- lential winds: the soil, in many parts, is noth- ing more than immense sands, which, when agitated, roll like the troubled ocean, and bury whole caravans in their course. The religion of the Arabs is Mahomedan- ism, the burial-place of their prophet being situated at a small town called Medina, where there is a stately mosque built and supported by four hundred pillars, and furnished with three hundred silver lamps, which are continu- ally burning. His coffin is covered with cloth of gold, under a canopy of silver tissue. The Arabs are descended from Ishmael, of whose posterity it was foretold that they should be invincible, — "have their hands against every man, and every man's hand against them." They are independent and unconquerable at present, and have so re- 52 ACCOUNT OF MUSCAT. mained from remotest ages, during the various conquests of the Greeks, Romans, and Tar- tars, — a convincing proof of the divinity of this prediction. The books which treat of their language, say that they have no less than a thousand terms to express the word camel, and five hun- dred for that of lion. But among these are reckoned the metaphorical expressions and images of their poets. Having thus given a description of Arabia, with its various novelties, in a limited degree, I add an account of the town and harbor of Muscat, where we are at present lying. It is situated in the mouth of the Gulf of Ormus, in latitude 23° 37' north, and longitude 58° 30' east : it has an excellent harbor, and is well fortified, there being two castles situated at the entrance of the same, as also another built on the peak of one of the mountains, and which is used as a look-out house, erected by the Portuguese in the year 1650, who had posses- sion of the place, but were repelled by the grandfather of the present Imaun, and it has remained in the possession of the Arabs from that period. The churches, as originally built by the Por- tuguese, have been converted into mosques, VISIT OF CAPT. CALFORN. 53 answering the purposes of religious worship, however different the creeds may be. This port has long been an emporium of the trade of India, Persia, and Arabia ; and Eng- lish ships from Hindostan carry on a trade with this town. Shortly after our arrival, we were visited by Capt. Calforn, holding a commission in the sultan's navy, and, from information received, I believe he holds a tolerable share of ships of that description, the greater part of which were at different ports on the coast, and cruis- ing around. Capt. Calforn, who was also accompanied by the American consul, was saluted when he came on board, and the salute was echoed by the forts. The captain was a most agreeable looking man, dressed in the costume of his native country : he seemed to attract the attention of all the officers by his gentlemanly manners, and the affability of his disposition. He spoke the English language remarkably well, having been in England. He was for some time in the British naval service. On the 21st inst. his highness the Imaun, of Muscat, having previously signified an inten- tion of visiting the ship, the crew were actively employed, from the earlier part of the day, in making preparations for his reception, so as to 5* 54 VISIT OF THE IMAUN. give him a specimen of American hospitality, in return for his kindness in rendering all pos- sible assistance to the officers and crew of the United States ship Peacock, which, on a for- mer occasion, had unfortunately got ashore on the coast, and had succeeded in getting off again by the aid sent from Muscat. His highness came on board at 2, P. M. all the officers being on deck to receive him. The marine guard was drawn out, headed by their commanding officer, in full uniform, and under arms upon the quarter-deck; and the yards were manned by the blue jackets, (or sailors,) in white frocks and trowsers. The scene ex- hibited on the occasion had a very imposing appearance. Shortly after his appearance on board, the drums beat to quarters, that his highness might have a better opportunity of inspecting the crew ; and every man was at his respective gun on the instant, as if by natural instinct. He appeared much pleased with our general appearance, and gave every mark of satisfac- tion that he was so. After partaking of a slight repast, he again left for the shore, when the same polite atten- tions were paid him as on his arrival ; the yards being again manned, the sailors at this DEATH PUNISHMENT. 55 time exerting their lungs with three spontane- ous cheers, and a sahite made by our iron bull- dogs, with a much louder noise, to the number of twenty-one, which was returned by the forts ashore. Our attention was called away, on the follow- ing day, from our customary duties, for a short time, to pay the last sad duties to the memory of another of our crew, named Henry Keating, aged 21, who, just upon the verge of ripening manhood, was called away to his last, long home. His remains were sent on shore for interment in the same ground with those of his former shipmate, John Clark, of whose death I have given an account. This morning there were two hundred and forty lashes served out in a short space of time. The boatswain's mate afterwards ac- knowledged to me, that his arm was never so fatigued before. These back rations were served upon twenty of the berth deck cooks, for the following trivial offence : It was " cus- tomary " on board of this ship, however " un- customary " in other men of war, for the first lieutenant to go round the berth deck every morning, and inspect the men's " tin pots and pans," with a j)iece of white paper, with which he wiped the insides of the said pots 66 LIEUT. MAGRUDER. and pans, and if the least soil came off on the paper, the owner was sure to receive a dozen lashes from this molhj coddle of tin ware. Cleanliness on ship board is absolutely neces- sary, and should be enforced ; but even clean tin will soil white paper, especially when damp- ened, as at sea ; and cleanliness can be en- forced on an American by a kind word, more effectually than by a dozen lashes. But not so, it seems, thought the first Lieu- tenant Magruder, whose time was generally occupied, during the cruise, in keeping the carpenters at work, for the purpose of making him fancy articles of furniture, and that, too, at the expense of the government, from which he was receiving his daily pay. Magruder was a very economical man, every one will allow ; and it was a most admirable method to furnish a house cheap ! CHAPTEE V. He that steals my purse, steals trash : 'T was mine, 't is his, and has been slave to thousands : But he that filches from me my good name, Takes that which not enriches Mm, and Makes me poor indeed. Shakspeare. Leave Muscat— Arrive at Bombay— Board a Brig— Ac- count of Bombay — An awkvv-ard Afiair — Honesty the best Policy — Description of the Hindoos generally — The Air, Climate, &c.— The late Tippoo Saib— Visits — Another Death — Bad Provisions — Leave Bombay for Goa — The Sea-coast, &c. On the 26th October Ave got under way and proceeded on our cruise, bound to Bom- bay, where we arrived on the 1st day of No- vember, nothing of any particular moment transpiring during the passage, which was short, and meeting with favorable winds on the same. As we were on the point of entering the harbor, we perceived a brig standing out under American colors : a boat was immediately lowered down and despatched alongside, when 58 ACCOUNT OF BOMBAY. it was found to be the brig Cherokee, bound to Salem. This aiForded an excellent oppor- tunity to our mariners to send letters to their respective families and friends, which was em- braced by many. It cannot in the least be doubted there were many tender epistles sent to the lovelier and softer sex, such as the dark- eyed beauty, and the blue or hazel-eyed girl of their souls, breathing forth vows of eternal con- stancy and truth, informing thern of their wel- fare, so that they might not let their Love canker; like a worm In the bud. Many a tender epistle, too, to a fond, despair- ing wife, and many a one from a half-repentant prodigal son to a distracted and bereaved mother. On coming to anchor, we perceived our con- sort, the John Adams, in a similar position, having arrived from Muscat a few days pre- vious. As customary, and according to naval etiquette, the English colors were hoisted at the fore, and a salute fired of twenty-one guns, which was returned. Bombay is situated in 18° 56' north latitude, and 72° 43' east longitude, and is one of the three presidencies belonging to the East India Company, and under the regulation of the ACCOUNT OF BOMBAY. 59 English government, by which their territories are governed^ It has a fine capacious harbor, or bay, where fleets find security in all seasons, and can conveniently contain one thousand ships at anchor. The island itself is about seven miles in length and twenty in circumfer- ence ; but its situation and its harbor are its chief recommendations. The climate was in former years fatal to English constitutions, till experience, caution, and temperance taught them preservatives against its fatal miasma. The best water is preserved in tanks, which receive it in the rainy seasons. The fort is a regular quadran- gle, and well built, of stone. Many black mer- chants reside here. The English have found methods to render this island and town, under all their disadvantages, a safe if not an agree- able residence. The reader need scarcely to be informed that the governor and council of Bombay have lucrative posts, as well as the officers under them. The troops on the island are command- ed by English officers, several of whom visited our ship ; and the natives, when formed into regular companies and disciplined, are here and all over the East Indies called Sepoys. The inhabitants of the island amount to near 60 THE HINDOOS. sixty thousand, of different nations, each of whom enjoys the practice of his religion unmo- lested. We were daily visited by many who came on board attracted by motives cf curiosity or amusement. Some came to visit us with those ideas, and others to display their articles of merchandise to the willing purchaser. They principally consisted of fancy ornaments, such as jewelry, handkerchiefs, &c. I have here to pause, to note rather an un- pleasant affair which transpired, and which was calculated to cast a blemish upon the gen- eral character of many an individual, who w^as not only innocent, but not even an observer of the transaction. One of these petty merchants lost some sliawls, and he immediately laid the loss to some of the crew who were standing by. Whether such was the case or not is hard to be proved : it appears the property was never seen or recovered. Whether it was a preconcerted scheme of his own to get something in return for an imaginary loss, I know not. The truth of the affair was never known, except to the all- searching eye of God. The principal part of our visiters consisted of the Hindoos. I was particularly struck with the simplicity of their general appearance, DEESS, CUSTOBIS, ETC. 61 and cleanliness of their dress and persons. Many of them were dressed in the European fashion, others in the costume of their country, which in the men consists of a kind of close- bodied gown and trowsers, resembling petti- coats, reaching down to their slippers. Such of the women as appear in public have shawls over their head and shoulders, short close jack- ets, and tight drawers, which come down to their ankles. Hence the dress of the men gives them, in the eyes of Europeans, an appearance of effeminacy, Vt'hile that of the women seems rather masculine. The complexion of the Hindoos is black, hair long, persons straight and elegant, limbs finely proportioned, fingers long and tapering, countenances open and pleasant, and their features exhibit the most delicate lines of beauty in the females, and in the males a kind of manly softness. Their houses cover much ground, and have spacious galleries and accommodations of ev- ery kind. The apartments are small and not very elegant, if we except the rich Persian carpets, with which the floors are usually cov- ered. The apparel of the higher sort of wo- men is, in most instances, inconceivably rich. They have jewels on their fingers and about 6 62 LATE TIPPOO SAIB. their necks, and also in their ears and nostrils ; with bracelets on their wrists and arms and round their ankles. Their manners are gentle ; their happiness consists in the solace of a domestic life ; and they are taught by their religion that matri- mony is an indispensable duty in every man, who does not entirely devote himself to the principles of religion by a separation from the world. Their religion permits them to have several wives, but they seldom have more than one ; and it has been observed that their wives are distinguished by a decency of demeanor, a solicitude for their families, and a fidelity to their vows, which might do honor to human nature in the most civilized countries. Their religion forbids them to quit their own country, nor do they want any thing from abroad. They might therefore have lived in much tranquillity and happiness, if others had looked on them with the same indifference with which they regard the rest of the world. Hindostan towards the north is pretty tem- perate, but hot in -the south, and it rains al- most constantly for three months in the year. In the year 1792, war was declared on the part of the British against the celebrated Tippoo Saib, who was defeated, and his capital taken BAD PROVISIONS. 63 by assault, together with an immense quantity of phinder. In the onset Tippoo Saib lost his life, and by his fall a great extent of territory accrued to the British ; and the power of the latter is now secured on a permanent foundation. The high-priests, or Brahmins, have the care of their religion and laws, and these persons are held sacred by the Hindoos. During our stay in Bombay we were honor- ed by a visit from his excellency the governor, as also the commander-in-chief of the British forces in India, who were each and severally saluted according to their rank. Previous to leaving this port, our purser purchased bread and beef for the men, which had been cast aside as unfit for use by the En- glish East Indiarnen. The bread was full of weevils, or small black bugs, and so hard that we were obliged to break it with a piece of iron, or the first article that came to hand ; and when thus broken, was like so much flint- glass. To this bread I impute the commence- ment of the dysentery in the ship, (however wrong I may be in my judgment,) for it was in many instances absolutely of sufficient sharp- ness to cut the entrails. The beef, also the refuse of these English 64 LEAVE BOBIBAY. vessels, was actually too disgusting for smell. Had there been no better on shore, it is rea- sonable to suppose that the Englishmen would have tried to stomach this in preference to starving to death. On the 11th November we got under way, and left the harbor of Bombay, with our con- sort, the John Adams, bound to a Portuguese settlement named Goa. Shortly after our de- parture, we had the unpleasant duty to fulfil of consigning the rem.ains of another of the crew to the deep. Alexander Wilkinson was past all the aid of medical skill, having been lingering for a length of time wdth a deep- rooted consumption ; so that his death had been long expected. After a pleasant passage of five days, we came to an anchor in the roads of Goa, with the John Adams. The tract of the peninsula that borders on the sea between Bombay and Goa, is called the Concan, and sometimes the Pirate Coast, as it was subject to the celebrated pirate Angria, and his successors, whose capi- tal was the strong fortress of Gheriah, taken by the English and Mahrattas in 1755. By this acquisition the Mahrattas have become a maritime power. On our arrival at Goa the usual naval cus- THE SEA-COAST. 65 torn was adopted, the Portuguese colors being hoisted at the fore, and a salute fired, which was returned by the forts on shore. The town was scarcely perceptible to the naked eye from the ship, as it is situated some distance from the usual place of anchorage for ships of large burthen. The ensuing morning a Portuguese frigate also arrived, and came to an anchor near us. 6* CHAPTER VI. We weigh the anchor, and spread the sail, And full of faith before the gale We bound ; the west winds softly blow, As eastward on our course we go j And soon around nought meets our eye But outspread sea and outstretched sky. Account of Goa — The late Inquisition— Leave the Har- bor — Ghaut Mountains— Cape Comorin — The Pearl Fishery — Account of operations — Make Ceylon — An- chor at Colu mho— Description of Ceylon — The Cin- namon Tree — Talipot Tree — Its various uses — The Cingalese — Arrivals — A very feeling remark. The island and city of Goa is situated on the coast of Malabar, in 15° 35' north latitude, and 73° 50' east longitude. It is the capital of the Portuguese settlements in the East In- dies, and lies about 260 miles south of Bom- bay. This island is about twenty-seven miles in compass : it is one of the finest and best ports, as far as regards the fortifications, of any in the Indies. This was formerly a most splendid city, and was surpassed, either in size or beauty, by few ACCOUNT OF GOA. 67 of the European cities. It is said that the rev- enues of the Jesuits upon the island equaled those of the crown of Portugal. Goa, as well as the rest of the Portuguese possessions of this coast, are under a viceroy, who still keeps up some remains of the ancient splendor of the government. The town is built on the north side of the island, and has the conveniency of a fine river, capable of receiving ships of the largest bur- then, where they lie VvitLin a mile of the town. It contains a great number of handsome churches and convents, and a stately hospital. The market-place occupies an acre of ground : in the shops about it may be found the produce of Europe, China, and other countries. It was noted in former ages for the terrors of the inquisition, which it contained, and which is said to have exceeded the one exist- ing in those days in Spain, for the horrid cru- elties practised therein, and which were carried on by persons under the cursed infatuation of blind superstition, who thought they were per- forming an act of glory to their Maker by tor- menting their fellow-men, under the sacred garb of religion. The following account of the ruins was given me by an officer who had visited them : " In the evening I went to survey, without fear 68 THE LATE INQUISITION. of consequences, the buildings of the once dreaded inquisition. These are of plain ma- sonry, of various heights and irregular form, approaching to that of a parallelogram, three hundred and twenty feet on the north front, and a hundred and seventy-five at the east end. The principal entrance, facing the city cathedral, is through a large portal of stone. What were our feelings on entering within the hideous enclosure ! Nothing but ruin instantly met our eyes. The roof had fallen in ; the floors everywhere giving way ; and the walls were mouldering towards early destruction ; while shrubs and creepers were growing luxu- riantly upon the tottering masses, and through the ruptured battlements. The great hall had been stripped of its gloomy magnificence, a painted surface, consisting of a few triangular figures alone remaining ; while the rotten floor, overgrown with grass, felt scarcely safe to tread upon. Indeed, it was with some degree of trepidation that we walked across the vari- ous apartments through which we were led ; the crazy timbers and floors frequently creak- ing and yielding, as though they would have failed beneath our feet. " Descending to the dungeons below, it was with difiiculty we could make our way from one recess to another, doors, walls and ceilings THE LATE INQUISITION. 69 mingling their materials together in heaps of rubbish. At length we found a narrow stair- case which conducted us to the principal cellSj in the deepest, darkest strongholds of this cas- tle of despair and death. " These were formed below the level of the ground, and consist of three rows, each con- taining six cells, ten feet square below, by fif- teen high, with arched roofs, and small iron- barred windows, to admit a little air, and less light. Indeed, on first entering one of these dens, we could scarcely see each other, or dis- tinguish the dimensions. All the doors have been removed ; but it vv^as apparent that, besides locks and bolts, two heavy wooden bars had been employed to fasten them on the outside. " The cells stand in three parallel lines, hav- ing the same aspect ; so that the doors of one row face the back of the row before them, pre- venting the possibility of communication be- tween the prisoners confined in the one with those confined in the other. The walls are very thick. A veranda, five feet wide, support- ed by pillars, extends in front of each row of cells ; and between the veranda and the row beyond is an area of the same breadth. At right angles with these, and at either end are two other ranges, each containing seven dis- tinct dungeons. 70 THE LATE INQUISITION. " One of these latter had been employed as the room for examining the miserable beings that fell into the clutches of the inquisitors, by the torture. This was indicated by a broad, black stripe, all about the upper part of the walls, with similar stripes extending from an- gle to angle and crossing in the middle. " In the roof of this apartment there is a small square aperture, through which it is said the inhuman judges listened to the confessions, the groans and shrieks of their agonized victims, while the rope and the rack stretched their limbs to dislocation, or torments more exqui- site, by fire and steel, were inflicted upon them. *' Over these five rows of cells there have been upper stories, now dilapidated, which appear to have been of the same construction and for the same purposes as the lower. *' The last auto-da-fe, or public execution of condemned persons, here took place in 1777 ; from which time, till the holy office was abso- lutely abolished by the interference of the Brit- ish government in 1811, the bodies of the wretches that perished within the walls of the inquisition here, either under the torture or by direct violence, or from heart-breaking cap- tivity, are said to have been thrown into a very CAPE COMORIN. 71 deep tank, within the precincts of the dungeon quarter. '^ The original structure was the^palace of a JMahomedan prince, afterwards the residence of the Portuguese viceroy, then converted into a Popish "place of torment," which deserved a harder name than that of purgatory. Now happily it is " a desolation," and will be a ''perpetual scorn," so long as one stone shall remain upon another to cry out against its for- mer priestly possessors." Our stay at Goa was short, leaving it on the following morning, with the John Adams, for Columbo, in the island of Ceylon. We were in sight of the coast of Hindostan the greater part of the passage, and, it being remarkably bold, we were frequently close in shore. When off a town called Aleppee, we could discern, with the naked eye several ships at anchor ia the harbor. The scenery occasionally displayed was ro- mantic in the extreme, the whole being sur- mounted by the stupendous Ghaut mountains, whose summits appeared to be lost in the clouds. They are situated in the country of Mysore, the capital of which, Seringapatam, is now held by the English. They extend from the Surat river to Cape Comorin, running I 72 THE PEARL FISHERY. within sixty, and at some parts within twenty miles of the coast. They are in many places a mile and a quar- ;■ ter in height, overgrown with forests, and have their summits frequently covered with snow. They are usually termed the Indian Apennines. At their termination, near Cape Comorin, they- may be seen nine or ten leagues out at sea. We passed the above cape on the 23d No- vember, situated in latitude 7"^ 50' north, and longitude 77° 33' east. It is about 3 leagues in extent, and is famous for uniting in the same garden the two seasons of the year; the trees being loaded with blossoms and fruit on the one side, while on the other they are stripped of all their foliage. This surprising phenome- non is owing to the ridge of mountains I have just mentioned, called the Ghauts. Be- tween this cape and the island of Ceylon, to which we were bound, lies the pearl fishery. As there exist many popular errors on this very interesting subject, I will endeavor to give an account of the fishery from materials which I have derived from the most authentic sources. It is from the description given by a British officer, who was for a considerable time stationed, with part of the regiment to which he belonged, at the very spots where the pearl fisheries were carried on. ACCOUNT OF OPERATIONS. 73 The pearl oysters, like our common oysters, lie in clusters, at greater or less depths in the sea. These clusters occur on the western side of the island of Ceylon, about fifteen miles from the shore, where their average depth is about twelve father. s ; and here the greatest of all pearl fisheries have been carried on for many ages. The fishery begins in the month of April, because in these latitudes the sea is then in its calmest state, and it is generally continued un- til the middle or end of May. It not only at- tracts a multitude of Cingalese, or natives of the island, to the coast, but crowds of specula- tors from all parts of the vast Indian peninsula, whose variety of manners, language, and dress is described as being very striking and pleasing. The temporary abodes erected for them, or by them, are also curious and picturesque ob- jects. On a solitary sea-shore a mass of al- most innumerable huts is at once seen to arise on the eve of the fishery. These huts are merely composed of a few poles stuck in the ground, and interwoven with light bamboos, and covered with the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree. These slender erected habitations often shelter as many as one hundred thousand per- sons. 7 74 MAKE CEYLON. The signal given for beginning the fishery- is bj the discharge of a cannon at daybreak. The boats of the pearl fishers generally carry a captain, a pilot, and twenty men, ten of whom are experienced divers. The divers are divided into two companies, and they plunge and relieve each other by turns. During the prosecution of the fishery, few places can be more animated than the western point of Ceylon. The oysters, or cleansed pearls, are bought and sold on the spot ; and be- side this trade, the confluence of so many crowds from different countries attracts dealers in all sorts of merchandise. The long line of huts is a continuous bazar, and all is life and activity ; but, the fishery over, both strangers and natives depart, the huts are knocked down, scarcely a human habitation can be seen for miles, and the most dreary solitude prevails until the next year. We made the island of Ceylon on the 24th inst. but did not come to an anchor oft' the town of Columbo, with the John Adams, until the ensuing day, when the ship was moored, the English colors hoisted, and the same sa- luted, which was duly returned by the forts ashore. THE CINNAMON TREE. 75 This island, though not the largest, is thought to be by nature the richest and finest island in the world : it is about 259 miles long and 200 broad. The natives call it, with some show of reason, the terrestrial paradise ; and it produces, besides excellent fruit of all kinds, long pep- per, fine cotton, ivory, silk, tobacco, ebony, musk, crystal, various minerals, spices, and all kinds of precious stones except diamonds. Every part of the island is well wooded and watered : it abounds in animals of every de- scription. The Ceylon elephant is preferred to all others, especially if spotted ; several noxious animals, such as serpents and ants, are likewise found here. The chief commodity of the island is its cinnamon, which is by far the best in all Asia. Though the trees of this flavoring spice grow in great profusion, yet the best are found in the neighborhood of Co- lumbo, off which town we anchored. The cinnamon tree grows to the height of twenty- five or thirty feet, and the stem to a diameter of from twelve to fifteen inches : the young leaves have a scarlet, crimson color, and the bark of the shoots is often beautifully speckled with dark green and light orange color. The tree thrives best in rich, light, dry soil, and 76 TALIPOT TREE USES. some degree of shelter from the ardent rays of the sun seems to be beneficial to it. The highly esteemed spice is the prepared bark of the tree : the shoots are peeled by making a longitudinal incision through the bark on both sides, and then introducing a knife under the bark, and thereby separating it from the wood. The leaves of the cinnamon tree yield an es- sential oil, which exactly resembles the oil of cloves, and the bark of the root is strongly impregnated v/ith camphor, from which it may be extracted by a chemiical process. One of the most remarkable trees in Ceylon is the talipot tree ; and there are few objects in the vegetable kingdom more remarkable and beautiful, or more useful to man. It is as big and as tall as the mast of a ship ; the stem is perfectly straight, which gradually diminishes as it ascends, and it is strong enough to resist the most violent tropical wind. The great usefulness of the tree is in its leaves, which, when expanded, are of a beautiful dark green color. Those chiefly used are cut before they spread out, and have, and retain for ages, a pale, brownish, yellow color, not unlike old parchment : some of them are so large as to cover fifteen or twenty men. The shape is TALIPOT TREE USES. 77 precisely that of a fan, and, like that ladies^ artificial cooler, it can be closed or expanded, and with almost as little exertion. It is in fact used as a fan by the Cingalese or natives, and is at the same time their only parasol, to defend them from the scorching rays of the sun, or umbrella, to protect them from the heavy rain ; in addition to which uses, it forms their only tent when in the field, and, cut up into strips, it serves them to write upon instead of paper. The leaf is so light that an entire one can be carried in the hand ; but it is always reduced for the sake of convenience. What- ever quantity of water may faK upon the leaf, it imbibes no humidity, remaining light and dry as ever. The British troops, in their campaign, in the jungles, against the Cingalese, in 1817-18, found, to their cost, how excellent a preserva- tive it was against wet and damp. The enemy's musket men were each furnished with a tali- pot leaf, by means of which they always kept their powder and arms perfectly dry, and could fire upon the invading forces ; whilst frequently the British muskets, which had no such protec- tion, were rendered useless by the heavy rains, and the moisture of the woods and thickets, 7* 78 TALIPOT TREE USES. and the British were consequently unable to return the fire of the natives. When used in lieu of paper, they are cut into strips, soaked for a short time in boiling water, and rubbed backwards and forwards over a smooth piece of wood, to make them pliable, and then carefully dried. They write or engrave their letters upon them with a sharp pointed instrument, and then rub them over with a dark-colored sub- stance, which, only remaining on the parts so etched or scratched, gives the characters greater relief, and makes them more easy to read. The coloring matter is rendered liquid by being mixed with cocoa-nut oil, and when dry is not easily effaced. A Cingalese book is a bundle of these strips tied up together. As even the lawyers and the learned in this country are very deficient in chronological knowledge, great confusion occurs as to dates, and it is very common to see a Cingalese judge attempting to ascertain the antiquity of a document, produced in court, by smelling or cutting it. Besides all the uses above described, the Cingalese employ the talipot leaf extensively THE CINGALESE ANIBIALS. 79 in thatching their houses. They also manufac- ture hats from it : these hats are made with brims as broad as an outstretched umbrella, and are chiefly worn by women nursing, to defend them and their infants from the heat. The descendants of the ancient inhabitants are called Cingalese, who, though idolaters, value themselves upon maintaining their an- cient laws and customs. They are in general a sober, inoffensive people, and are mingled with Moots, Malabars, Portuguese, and Dutch. They are divided into several tribes, from the nobleman to the maker of mats, and all the children follow the same occupation as their fathers ; nor is it lawful to marry into any other tribe. They are pagans ; and though they acknowledge a supreme God, they wor- ship none but the inferior sort, and among these they reckon the sun and the moon. Common deer are found in this island in great abundance, but the horned cattle are very small and very scarce ; and the woods and jungles, are infested by that most terrible of all ravenous beasts, the tiger. I have to refer my readers to a perusal of Buffon's Natural History, for an accurate de- scription of the last-named beast of prey, as it 80 A VERY FEELING REMARK. would be entirely out of my power so to do, as I never had the opportunity of meeting one face to face, to give him a friendly shake of the paw, according to the rules of politeness laid down by Lord Chesterfield ; and can posi- tively assure the reader, that I am not in the least anxious to have my knowledge (trifling as it may be) of the general politesse of the beau monde put to such an unpleasant test. CHAPTER VII. Is this a dagger which I see before me, The handle toward my hand ? Come, let me clutch thee. Macbeth. And withered murder Alammed by his sentinel, the wolf, Whose howl 's his watch, thus with his stealthy pace, Towards his design, moves like a ghost. Idem. Account of Columbo — Adam's Peak — Deserij)tions of, by a traveller — Governor's Visit — Unwelcome News — Murder and Piracy on the coast^of Sumatra — Account of the same. Columbo, the modeni capital of Ceylon, off which our ships anchored, is situated on the southwest coast : the plan of the city is pretty regular. The two principal streets extend the whole length of the town, intersecting each other, at right angles, near the centre. The fort is defended by three hundred pieces of artillery : it is a mile and a quarter in cir- cumference, and nearly encompassed by the sea. From the coolness and salubrity of its situa- 82 Adam's peak. tion, it forms a more comfortable residence than perhaps any other situation in India. The government house stands on the north side of the fort, fronting the sea : it is a hand- some building, consisting of two stories, witli two wings upon one floor : it has an elegant portico, leading into a lofty and capacious hall. About a mile apart from it stands the Portu- guese church, for the use of those inhabitants who belong to the Romish communion. Columbo is by far the most eligible place of residence in Ceylon ; for, besides the superiority of climate, peculiar to its locality, there is an agreeable mixture of society, such as cannot be enjoyed in the more confined circles of the smaller stations. The day after our arrival at Columbo, one of the crew, named Edward Marsh, (seaman,) met with an unfortunate accident, getting his right hand jammed between a cask of water, and the coverings of the hatch. He was obliged to undergo the painful operation of amputa_ tion, by which he was deprived of two of his fingers ; but, from the skilful treatment which he received, he was in the course of a few days enabled to resume his duties. In the island of Ceylon, there is an amazing high mountain, called Adam's Peak, which is Adam's peak. 83 plainly discernible many leagues off. As there are various incidents connected with this stu- pendous mountain, I herewith subjoin a few of its peculiarities, and attendant circumstances, for the amusement and information of my readers. It is the highest mountain on the island, and has always been considered a.s a lioly mount — a pilgrimage to which, the Cingalese and others think to be highly meritorious and beneficial. The returning pilgrims, as an act of charity, always dispose of their walking staffs on the face of the mountain, so as to assist future travellers in their ascent. Its elevation is 6800 feet above the level of the sea ; the granatic peak or cone resting upon a high mountain, belonging to the chain which forms the upper rampart of the country. It is situated sixty miles south of Columbo : the road from the base of the summit, (as de- scribed by a traveller,) is rugged in the ex- treme, being covered with fragments of rocks and iron stone. It presents obstacles to the traveller, which not only require great patience and perseverance to surmount, but likewise a great resolution, endurance, and physical hard- ihood. It is of a conical shape, like the Peak of 84 Adam's peak. Teneriffe, and is visible at sea, on the south- west coast, at a distance of fifty leagues. It is visited almost daily, by parties of pilgrims, of all ages ; some mere children, and others decrepit from old age. They here present their offerings, consisting of various articles, even to a lock of the hair, or a portion of the beard. At the conclusion of this religious ceremony, some passages are chanted from a small book, formed of palm leaves ; men, women, and children, joining in a loud chorus of responses, at the termination of each pas- sage. These passages consist of their five com- mandments, which are all prohibitory and for- bid, — 1. Killing any living creature; 2. Steal- ing ; 3. Committing adultery ; 4. Uttering a falsehood ; 5. Drinking intoxicating liquors. These ceremonies are mostly finished in less than a quarter of an hour, when the pilgrims retire, and make room for the next party in turn. I shall conclude the account of the above, in the words of one who, from motives of curiosi- ty, had passed the preceding night on the spot. He says, a little before sunrise, the sky, towards the east, had a bright, flame color, indicative of the approach of day. The sun governor's visit. 85 burst forth at last, in all his glory, reminding him of the words of a celebrated poet, who thus expresses himself, at beholding the rising sun : " For thee Cassiope her chair withdraws ; For thee the bear retracts his shaggy paws : High o'er the north thy golden orb doth roll, And blaze eternal round the wandering pole." He proceeds to say, that at this time not a cloud intervened to dim the splendor of the scene. The sun, shining upon the space where the view terminated at the bottom of the mountain, increased the sublimity of the pros- pect. And, he observer, it was impossible to describe the terrific grandeur of the scene ; but, indeed, the prospect from the height of the mount was so frightful, that he believes it was rarely contemplated with due composure. During our stay in Columbo, we were, in addition to numerous other visiters, honored by a visit from the governor of the island, who came on board, bringing with him part of his family, and several of his retinue, consisting principally of British military officers. He also had in attendance, a variety of his body- servants ; one of the latter, I could but par- ticularly notice, as his size, dress, and de- meanor reminded me so much of Punch, as I 86 MURDER AND PIRACY. once saw it enacted at one of our theatres at home, by the celebrated Mons. Mazurier, who, by his foolery and antics, got such an ascend- ancy in the minds of the public at that time. We also received, through the medium of a Penang paper, the unpleasant intelligence of a most cruel murder and piracy, which had been perpetrated by the Malays on the west coast of Sumatra, on board of an American bark, called the Eclipse. The following are the particulars, as copied verbatim from that jour- nal, with the editorial remarks thereon : To the Consular Agent for the United States of America, Prince of Wales Island: Sir, — Agreeable to your request, with the greatest pleasure I send you an official narra- tion of the murder of Capt. Wilkins, of the American ship Eclipse. From the 24th of June, the day of my arri- val at Tullah Pow and Muckie, and also the day I spoke with the Eclipse, I knew very little about her operations. I was informed that Capt. W. was many days trading at a village called Trabanjan, a distance of about twelve miles from Muckie. On the night of the 26th of August, at about 2 o'clock, a man from a jolly-boat hailed the MURDER AND PIRACY. 87 ship in French, claiming hospitaUty, saying that they were from the bark Eclipse, that the captain had been murdered by the Malays, and the second mate, who was then in the boat, severely wounded in the loins, and two sailors, wounded in several parts of the body, with great difficulty got on board. After dressing their wounds, they communi- cated to me the following narrative : On the evening of the 26th of August, 1838, two samprams, with twelve men in each, hav- ing a small quantity of pepper, came alongside the ship, and offered it for sale, as it frequently happens. The second mate, whose watch it was on deck, being particularly acquainted with Labbey Ousso Juritoolis, of Muckie, and knowing that he had assisted Capt. W. in his former voyages, thought it was no harm to allow him and his people to come on board, as they were very good friends, notwithstanding it was then night time. When they came up, he told them the captain was then asleep, and had been indisposed for several days, and that they would be obliged to wait until he awoke, to weigh the pepper and settle the price. He also told them the custom of the ship was, by way of precaution, to ask them for their weapons, which they without any objection im- 0» MURDER AND PIRACY. mediately gave up, and he got them secured under lock and key. After this, they feigned to sleep on various parts of the deck, awaiting the approach of the captain, who came up about 10 o'clock, when they asked him to w^eigh the pepper. Labbey Ousso, feigning friendship with the captain, complained of the distrust of the second mate, and requested to have his own and his friends' daggers given back to them, which was done. From his long acquaintance with the man, the captain did not think he was doing an act of imprudence in giving them their daggers. During this time, the second mate and two of the sailors, were busily occupied in getting ready the scales, &c. for weighing the pepper that was on deck. As the second draft was weighing, the captain, who was seated by a light near the binacle, cried out, " I am stabbed ! " The second mate, who was then stooping to take up the bags, was stabbed in the loins ; at the same time, the apprentice boy, who was stand- ing near the captain, was killed by the same hand which had slain his commander. The second mate jumped overboard notwith- standing his wound, and part of the crew fol- lowed his example ; the remainder ran aloft. The second mate, and those who followed him MURDER AND PIRACY. 89 afterwards returned to the ship, by means of some ropes which were hanging from the quar- ter-deck, and went up aloft to join the others, several of whom were wounded. The murderers, in the mean time*, were look- ing out for other victims, and found the cook below in irons for insubordination. He begged for his life, promising to show them the place where the money and opium was deposited. They immediately broke his fetters and set him free, and took four cases of opium, and $18,000 in specie, the contents of eighteen casks. The second mate and four sailors, who were on board, armed a boat, and came to us, leaving the ship without any guardian to take care of her. The carpenter and two sailors went on shore to join the chief mate and four sailors, who were on shore for the purpose of procuring pepper. On the morning of the 27th inst. we unani- mously agreed that the sailors should return to their ship and hoist the signal of distress ; to call the chief mate, and if he did not come, to accompany it with firing, which was done, on their arrival on board. 1 was afterwards informed, that the ship Eclipse, under the command of the chief mate, sailed for Muckie, to take one of the chiefs of 8* 90 MURDER AND PIRACY. that place to Soosoo, to recover his losses and part of the opium, which the rajah of that place got from the robbers : these he refused to give up. This statement is all that I know, and which I give as authentic. (Signed,) A. Van Iseghem. To J. Revelly, Consular Agent of the United States of America, Prince of Wales Island. It appears that on the receipt of the above melancholy intelligence, the American consul had asked the assistance of the proper authori- ties at Penang to interfere for the benefit of the above ship, which would have been imme- diately granted, by sending a British man of war to the scene of the outrages, but that pre- vious arrangements rendered it utterly impos- sible. CHAPTER VIII. My flag is dancing on the sliies ; My sails are on the breeze ; And the wild bird screams exultingly, As we bound along the seas. Anonymous. FeeliDgs of the Crew — Leave Col umbo — Speak two Ships — Make Sumatra — An unseen Enemy — Origin of Small-pox — Measures adopted for prevention — Death — The Shark — A tit bit — Come to anchor'off Annallaboo — Leave again — Arrive at duallah Battoo — Poadam, the Malay Chief— The Rajah's conduct— The Eng- lish Brig. The deed of atrocity just I'elated could not be heard in silence, much more tolerated, by the hardy sons of the ocean, who manned our frigate, and who breathed forth nothing but vows of retributive vengeance on the heads of these desperate marauders, on the melancholy recital of the same, looking forward with the most intense anxiety for the opportunity to arrive, to carry their intentions into effect, as a tribute to the memory of their unfortunate countrymen. 92 FEELINGS OF THE CREW. A convincing proof of their feelings could not be more uniformly displayed, than when the shrill pipes of the boatswain and his mates, on the 1st of December, called all hands to up anchor, which was performed with the greatest despatch, leaving the island of Ceylon, accom- panied by our consort, the John Adams, and bound to the spot where this outrage upon all civilized laws had been enacted. The principal part of the time during the passage, was engrossed in exercising the crew at the great guns, as also the small arms, con- sisting of the musket, pike, and pistol : they were divided into separate divisions, and de- nominated the musketeers, and pike and pis- tol men. These necessary exercises w^ere attended to with the most rigid attention, every man feeling anxious to obtain a knowledge of the same, as it was deemed essentially necessary, being in full expectation of having a hit of a hrush with these Malayan despera- does, on our arrival. Every brave heart was buoyant with anxious expectation, and every man secretly wished to be in the expected affray. Many, in fact, whose duties would confine them to the ship, volunteered their services, proving that they were most willing to risk their lives in the SMALL-POX. 93 cause of humanity and justice. The star- spangled banner, waving over their heads, in- spired them with new ardor to serve their coun- try, even amid dangers, and brought to their remembrance the perils and sacrifices of their forefathers, who shed their blood under the same for the great and glorious cause of liberty and independence. During our passage, we spoke two ships, — one from Canton, bound to Bombay, the other a French vessel, out one hundred days from Bordeaux, and then proceeding to Calcutta. The day after we spoke the latter, we discovered high land on the coast of Sumatra. At this particular time, glowing, as our feel- ings were, at the idea of taking satisfaction on the desperadoes of this extensive island, who live on the sea-coast, these justifiable feelings were considerably damped at the approach of an enemy, who came crawling upon us with all its ravaging terrors, to destroy us with its loathsome breath. That direful and so much to be dreaded disorder, the small-pox, made its unwelcome appearance in the ship : the bare idea alone of this malady, was of itself sufficient to alarm ; more especially when its malignant operations are confined to a limited space, 94 SMALL-POX. amongst a small community of individuals, con- fined as it were to one spot, and who, following their natural calling on the surface of the deep, have no possible opportunity afforded them of absenting themselves from the scene of conta- gion like a landsman. Of the numerous diseases to which mankind are exposed, the class denominated epidemic or spreading diseases are attended with the most alarming interest. In the traditions of the people of China and Hindostan, the small-pox was enumerated as one of their common disorders ; and in some of their earliest books, devoted to religion and philosophy, descriptions of it have been found to exist. Therefore China or Hindostan must be considered as the cradle of the small-pox. I have no means, however, of ascertaining in which of the two it first appeared, or of offer- ing a rational conjecture to explain the man- ner of its first production, beyond the fact that those countries have, from the most remote ages, swarmed with inhabitants, and been sub- ject to dreadful inroads of famine, — circum- stances of themselves eminently favorable to the generation of pestilence. According to the Chinese and Brahminical authorities, there is written evidence to show SMALL-POX. 95 that small-pox had been established in their respective countries, during a period of three thousand years and upwards. The unfortunate victim of an attack from this pestilential disorder is seen laboring under a fever with the most putrid symptoms : he is at the same time covered with pustules, which not unfrequently run together, and ultimately change the whole surface of his body into one continued sore, that renders his features undis- tinguishable to his dearest friends, and con- verts him into an object of disgust to their senses. Nor are the immediate sufferings and danger of death the only misfortunes attend- ant on small-pox ; for, in case the patient finally survives the attack, it is often at the sacrifice of every thing deemed desirable in personal appearance. Beauty may be trans- formed into deformity, and, what is of far greater importance, by the loss of sight the patient may be condemned to pass the re- mainder of his life in total darkness. I consider it a duty I owe my own feelings, as well as an act of justice due to our com- mander, the officers, and those gentlemen who conducted the medical department, to assert, that every precaution within the scope of human knowledge was put into full force 96 DEATH. to Stop the farther progress of this woful distemper. Those persons who had never been afflicted with it, or been vaccinated as a preventive, underwent inoculation. There was also an appropriate place set apart on the gun-deck, screened around, for the re- ception of those who were so unfortunate as to catch the infection, allowing none of the ship's company to have any intercourse what- ever \yith those suffering under its baneful influence, and every attention which medical skill could devise was put into full effect for their mutual comfort and benefit. The first individual who fell a victim to this malignant disorder was a man named Fred- erick McQuillon, who lingered but a few days, then paying the awful debt of nature, and yielding up his soul to his Creator. A short time afterwards, the remains of the deceased, with every article of bedding, &.c. were com- mitted to the bosom of the fathomless deep. On the same afternoon, being in a reflecting mood, I was ruminating on the uncertainty of human life, with the various vicissitudes at- tending it — these thoughts arising from the death of the above person, who, but a few days before, was enjoying the best of health — when I was suddenly aroused from my revery, by THE SHARK. 97 an unusual commotion on the forecastle or fore part of the spar-deck, and surmising it might proceed from some cause which would tend to enliven my spirits, J bent my way towards the scene from whence the noise proceeded, and discovered it originated from some of the men having hooked a shark, and then hauling him on board, which was soon eifected, though not without many struggles on his part to liberate himself from their hands. On beholding this voracious monster of the deep extended on the deck, it forcibly recalled to my mind the lines of Byron, who says : " Lured by the scent of rank disease and death. Behold the direful shark ; who, rushing, Cuts the briny flood, swift as the gale can Bear the ship along." It appeared he had been gamboling about, and displaying his sportive tricks on the sur- face of his native element for some time, but, being enticed by the appearance of a piece of pork, with which a hook was well baited, he made a sudden spring at the same to satisfy the cravings of nature, when, — O w^oful mis- hap ! — the concealed and rugged barb of the hook stuck fast in his gormandizing throat, to punish him for his temerity ; and thus he was hauled on board amidst the exclamations of 9 98 ANCHOR OFF ANNALLABOO. the sailors. After floundering about for some time, and trying to break somebody's legs with its tail, — a part in which they are extremely powerful — an end was put to its existence by chopping the same with an axe, — the usual method adopted : it was then put into the hands of some one who volunteered their ser- vices on this particular occasion, and who acted in the capacity of cleaner and cook, and, when dressed, it was offered up as an uncom- mon treat to the masticating organs of those who had a relish for such a novel and xery epicurean dish. One of the men asking me on the following day if 1 had tasted it, on my replying in the negative, exclaimed, that I had lost a treat, for a slice of shark, well seasoned and cooked, would put a veal cutlet to the blush, and make a goose, half roasted, jump clean off" the spit. I made no reply, but at the same time thought to myself of the old adage, when a school-boy of " De gustibus non," &c. On the 20th inst. having discovered two brigs at anchor off Annallaboo, displaying English colors, we bore up for them, and came to an anchor. A boat being despatched to endeavor to obtain any information which might further our views, with respect to the natives on the coast, the officer in command of ARRIVE AT QUALLAH BATTOO. 99 the boat having executed his commission, re- turned to the ship. On the following morning we got under way again, and proceeded onwards to our destined port. Next day, being abreast of Quallah Battoo, we stood in for the anchorage. At this time, a canoe from the shore came along- side, manned by three Malays ; and the con- sternation depicted on their countenances can be much better imagined than described, when they found themselves detained as prisoners, pro tempore, and their canoe very politely passed astern and made fast. We came to an anchor about 3, P, M. but no friendly salute was fired as a token of amity and good fellowship, as in the ports we had been to before. Every duty was performed with the most perfect tranquillity, unattended with the usual bustle which generally takes place on the arrival of a ship in port ; and we could not refrain from regarding the place with secret detestation, arising from its being the receptacle of such unprincipled characters. On the following morning, we shifted our berth, weighing our anchor, and standing closer in shore, where we brought up again : our con- sort, the John Adams, following our example, brought up as close in shore as she could with safety. 100 THE rajah's conduct. At this time, one of the Malay chiefs, named Poadam, came on board, with several of his tribe, and was received with the utmost urban- ity and kindness, as he was generally known to be friendly, especially on a former occasion, when the United States frigate Potomac was laying here, under the command of Com. J. Downes, and when the forts were destroyed by the crew of that ship. Through the medium of his information, we were given to under- stand that one of the principal murderers con- cerned in the late affair of the ship Eclipse, was ashore here and under the immediate pro- tection of the rajah of the place. A boat w^as immediately despatched away with several of our officers, who, as well as the boat's crew, were well armed, to have com- munication with the rajah on the subject, if possible. On the boat nearing the shore, it was discovered that the beach was lined with- armed men, which naturally led our party to believe that the natives were collected at this particular spot for the purpose of opposing their landing ; but in the course of a short time, finding they did not show any direct mark of hostility, the party landed without any opposition whatever on the part of the natives, and immediately proceeded to execute THE ENGLISH BRIG. 101 their commission, the result of which led to a promise, on the part of the rajah, that the mur- derer should be delivered up on the ensuing morning, — a promise which he did not fulfil, nor had he any intention of doing so ; for, on a second application being made to him, his ex- cuses were founded on prevarication, stating that the man had escaped, but that a certain number of his tribe were on the search for him. Finding, by these contradictory statements, that he did not wish to come to terms of recon- ciliation, or a settlement of the affair in any shape whatever no farther communication was held upon the subject, as it was thought advisa- ble to give them a few iron arguments by way of bringing them to reason. At this crisis of affairs between us, an Eng- lish brig arrived in the offing, and came to an anchor. We despatched a boat alongside, and politely desired the captain to have no inter- course with the shore, making him acquainted with the nature of our grievances ; and this requisition on our part was strictly complied with by him. On Christmas day, — a day which recalls to mind the origin of the same as having given birth to the divine Saviour of mankind, who was all peace and love, — on this particular day 9* 102 CHRISTMAS DAY. we were obliged to act directly opposite by commencing hostilities on the natives, by en- deavoring to destroy their forts, the destruction of which would open their eyes to a sense of their error. In the following chapter I have given a short account of our proceedings on this occasion. CHAPTER IX. Oiir insulted country bids us join to throw Avenging thunders on this our common foe. Let anger scorn the rancorous debate, The low and little jars of private hate. And nobly sacrifice each selfish aim On the bright altar of Columbia's fame. Author. Cannonade Q,uallah Battoo — Come to terms — Wounded Malay — Seize several Proas — Account of Sumatra — Religion, Customs, &c.— The Cassia Tree — Wild Beasts— Leave Gtuallah Battoo — Anchor at Muckie — The tug of War — Cannonade Muckie — Land the Crew — Destro}^ the Town — The Jack in the Box — Lawful plunder — Leave Muckie for Soosoo— A Death and Burial. The crew were actively employed in prepar- ing the ship for action, and their alacrity was creditable and praiseworthy in the extreme. The starboard broadside of the ship was sprung upon the town ; the guns were cast loose, and at 3, P. M. we commenced firing upon the forts, which were partially obscured by trees ; the John Adams, Vv'ho was closer in shore, also doing the same. Both ships kept up a 104 WOUNDED MALAY. brisk fire for the space of half an hour, and did not cease until two of the forts had been destroyed, and several lives lost on their side, in addition to the damage done to the houses and cattle, which was considerable ; but its full extent was not known to us. Next morning, a person came on board, dressed in the Malayan costume, attended by some of his tribe, who, I was afterwards informed, claimed kindred with the rajah of the place, and who had been deputed by that individual to visit us on a special mission to the commander, for the purpose of coming to terms of reconcihation, which were at length adjusted with this place. We had a longer reckoning to settle with the town of Muckie, the place off which this cruel outrage had been committed. The captain of the English brig, (then lying in the offing,) also came on board, bringing with him one of his crew, (a Malay,) who had literally shattered his hands to pieces, by the sudden explosion of a gun, while load- ing it to fire a feu de joie in honor of Christ- mas day. The unfortunate man was left on board of our ship, after undergoing the painful opera- tion of having his right hand amputated, and was treated with that humane and Christian ACCOUNT OF SUMATRA. 105 kindness which his unfortunate case so pecu- liarly demanded. Several proas were boarded occasionally and brought alongside, but after- terwards permitted to proceed on their destina- tion, after being thoroughly searched to see they did not containarms or ammunition. The extensive island of Sumatra is the most western of the Sunda Islands : its general direc- tion is nearly northwest and southeast. It is about 900 miles in length, and but from 100 to 150 in breadth. It is surpassed but by few islands in the world for the various gifts of nature. A chain of high mountains runs through its full extent, the ranges in many parts being double and treble. Their altitude, though great, is not sufficient to occasion their being covered with snow during any part of the year. Be- tween these ridges are extensive plains, con- siderably elevated above the surface of the maritime lands : in these the air is cool, and from this advantage they are deemed the most eligible part of the country, are best inhabited, and the most cleared from woods, which, in general, throughout Sumatra, cover both hills and valleys with an eternal shade. Here, too, are found many large and beauti- ful lakes, which facilitate much the communi- cation between the different parts. Rain is 106 ACCOUNT OF SUMATRA. very frequent here, sometimes very heavy, and almost always attended with thunder and light- ning. Earthquakes are not uncommon, and there are several volcanoes on the island. The interior parts are governed by pagan princes ; and the natural products of Sumatra are pretty much the same as those of the adjacent islands. The people who inhabit the coast are Malays, and are divided into various tribes, the princi- pal of which is termed the rejangs; they are below the middle stature, their bulk in propor- tion, their limbs for the most part slight but well-shaped, and particularly small at the wrists and ankles, and upon the whole grace- fully formed. The interior parts are inhabited by a very different people : their language and character differ much from the Malays, the latter using the Arabic character. They have no king, but live in villages independently gov- erned by a chief, and generally at variance with each other. They fortify their villages very strongly with double fences, of camphor plank, pointed, and placed with their points projecting outwards, which are concealed by the grass, but which will run quite through a man's foot. It is in this country that most of the cassia sent to Europe is produced. The cassia tree grows LEAVE QUALLAH BATTOO. 107 to fifty or sixty feet in height, with a stem about two feet in diameter, and a beautiful and regular spreading head. Its chief trade with other nations is pepper, which grows here in great abundance. The wild beasts of the country are various, consisting principally of tigers, elephants, rhi- noceroses, bears, and monkeys. The tigers prove to the inhabitants, both in journeys, and even in their domestic occupations, most de- structive enemies. The size and strength of the species which prevail in this island is pro- digious : they are said to break, with a stroke of their fore paw, the leg of a horse or buffalo, and the largest prey they kill is without diffi- culty easily swallowed by them. On the 28th inst. we left Quallah Battoo, with our consort, the John Adams, and pro- ceeded towards Muckie, off which place we anchored on the following morning. As we were on the point of coming to an anchor, we discovered a sail, and on sending a boat along- side, it was found to be a French bark, bound to Penang. We also displayed our colors to a strange brig which got under way from Muckie, and stood along the coast. On the 30th, we hove up the anchor for the purpose of standing closer in shore, and then brought up again. 108 CANNONADE MUCKIE. At 10, A. M. on the first of January, 1$39, we commenced the new year, and hostiUties on the desperate inhabitants of this place. The starboard broadside of the ship was sprung upon the town, and shortly afterward music, to coincide with our resentment, sounded on our ears the usual notes played for quarters. The men instinctively rushed to their guns, which were instantly cast loose, and every necessary preparation was made for action. We began to fire upon the town and forts, and kept up a continual, brisk, and well-di- rected fire on the same, of round shot and stands of grape. At meridian came the tug of war : our men, to the number of 350, includ- ing the marines, all well armed with various weapons, ofi'ensive and defensive, left the ship for the shore, by the boats, in the following order, under the command of the ofiicers of the respective divisions : Launch, 1st division; first cutter and curricle, 2d division ; barge and fourth cutter, 3d division ; second and third cutters, 4th division. Each boat was provided with kedges and grapnels, also moorings, to anchor at a con- venient distance from the shore, and the crews of each boat were also armed with the means of defence : each boat also had on board two commodore's directions. 109 petty officers to assist in landing and taking on board the expedition. Previous to the boats shoving off from the ship, our commodore addressed the crew, and, in words which do him the highest honor, told them to allow their feelings to be biased by- mercy and humanity, and, above all, to take particular care not to injure any woman or child in any shape whatever. It reminded me forcibly of Shakspeare's words, as far as re- garded myself: What a man dare do, I dare; He who dares do more, Is not a man : for, though bearing the form and appearance of a man, he v/ho would injure a helpless wo- man, or innocent offspring, for the sake of gratifying his resentful feelings, would be un- worthy of the name of one of the lords of the creation, and should be used, in the words of the song, which says, — Is there a heart that never loved, Or felt soft woman's sigh ? Is there a heart can mark, mimoved. Dear woman's tearful eye ? O, bear him hence to some solitary cell, Or to some distant shore, 10 110 LANDING OF THE CREW. Where love was never known to dwell, And nought but savage monsters roar. The commodore having wished us success to our enterprise, the boats pulled for the shore with animation, covered by a slow and well-di- rected fire from the starboard batteries of both ships, until the boats had reached the shore, and their respective crews landed ; from that time firing only at intervals. On landing the men, the boats were moored at a convenient distance from the shore, and kept close together for self-preservation. Our landing was effected without any opposition on the part of the natives, who had absconded and taken to their recesses for their own preserva- tion, after removing their valuables and other effects. We were at this time joined by the greater part of the crew belonging to the John Ad- ams, under the command of Captain Thomas Wyman, upon whom the command of the ex- pedition devolved. The Adams's crew were easily distinguished from the Columbia's, by their ornamental head-dress, (as a lady would say,) consisting of a large pasteboard or stiff canvass cap, something in the shape of a gren- adier's, with the name of their ship in full, giv- DESTROY THE TOWN. Ill ing them a most formidable appearance, and which they themselves had rigged for this es- pecial occasion. However, to proceed with my story, we did not remain long in a state of inactivity, but marched into the town, and commenced setting fire to the same, which was speedily in one general conflagration. At the same time the forts were leveled with the ground, the guns spiked, and every thing de- stroyed which was deemed of value to the na- tives. We met with no obstacle, whatever, to im- pede us in the work of destruction, which was carried on to its fullest extent ; the town being burnt to the ground, leaving nought but a mass of ruins. On reviewing the scene before me, I could but surmise that this act of vengeance on our part would remind the natives of that retalia- tion which ever would be taken upon them by all civilized nations, as long as they obstinately persisted in committing such piratical prac- tices ; a sinful propensity which they have jdos- sessed from the earliest periods. In the course of our proceedings we took two of the natives prisoners, one of whom was captured in a manner that excited the risible muscles of the captors. While busily occq- 113 THE JACK IN THE BOX. pied in destroying various articles in one of the houses, their attention was attracted by a large chest standing in a corner. All eyes were immediately bent upon this object, and no doubt there were some who fancied it might contain some valuables which would enrich them for life. To put the matter beyond a doubt, up went the powerful and brawny arm of one of the pioneers, with a sledge hammer. Down fell the same weighty concern on the lid of the chest, which was stove to pieces, when, wonderful, most ^vonderful to relate, out pop- ped, not, my readers, Plutus, the god of riches, as had been imagined, but the dark, dismal, and affrighted countenance of a poor devil of a Malay, who exclaimed, in broken English, *' My God, massa." One of the marines, who was foremost on the occasion, (I suppose wish- ing to have the first finger in the pie,) started back, most egregiously disappointed in his great expectations, exclaiming, '* My eyes, vot a d — ble ill-looking Jack in the box." How- ever, the poor fellow was taken prisoner, and sent on board with another, his brother in mis- fortune, but afterwards humanely liberated. Another incident which tended much to amuse me, was the dry and laconic answer of one of the second division to his ofiicer on the LAWFUL PLUNDER. 113 subject of poaching, and which arose as fol- lows. The man had strayed from his di- vision, and was then on his return, with a young calf under his arm, bleating, as they journeyed on together ; which prize Tom said he considered as lawful plunder, and intended to give his messmates a regular tuck-out on the ensuing day from the carcass of his pris- oner. At this time Tom was perceived by his offi- cer, who, in an authoritative tone of voice, de- manded of him what he was doing out of his ranks. Tom, either not wishing or not willing to understand his superior, exclaims, " Lawful plunder, sir." " Baa ! " cries the calf. " Great poachers in my nativ-e place, sir," once more says Tom. " Baa ! " reiterates the calf. By this time the officer came up to him, and could but smile at the dry replies of Tom to his or- ders, saying, " So they are great poachers in your town, are they ? " " Lord bless you, sir, yes ; ray father thought no more of snaring a hare, or shooting and bagging a pheasant upon another gentleman's manor, than I do — being a chip of the old block — in knocking down any running game ;" at the same time putting the calf out of his arms, which run off. Tom lost the subftance for the shadow, leveling his mus- 10* 114 A MALAY BURNT. ket and firing at a poor, affrighted sheep, which, however, got off scot free. " That will do," exclaims the officer, laughing heartily; " I am perfectly satisfied with your poaching tac- tics. Fall into your division." '* Stop, if you please, sir, till I regain my calf;" at the same time starting after the runaway animal. T turned away, pleasantly thinking to myself which was the biggest calf of the two. I now proceed to relate a scene of a more melancholy description, which was occasioned by a Malay being burnt to death in the general flames. On being discovered by some of our party, he would not leave the house, which was then burning over his head, either by force or entreaty. What his motives were for this act of self-destruction, I cannot judge; but can on- ly surmise it either proceeded from a fear of falling into our hands, or sprung from a nobler principle, not to leave the scenes of his earlier years, but rather perish in the general wreck. If the former, the poor unfortunate was under very mistaken notions, as he would have been treated with that kind commiseration which ever actuates the brave towards an unfortunate. If the latter was his idea, his heroism and self- devotion can but be applauded by the truly soosoo. 115 brave, however the result may be regretted by the humane. Having completed our work of destruction, the damage done being estimated at $180,000, we hoisted our flag in a conspicuous situation on the beach, to notify to the ship that we had succeeded in our object, as far as retaliation was concerned ; and at 3, P. M. we once more embarked in our boats for the ship, in the same uniform order as we had landed, and went on board, highly exhilarated in spirits, to think we had taken some satisfaction on this desperate horde, however inadequate it might be to the injury sustained, as far as national feeling was concerned ; and at the same time letting the Malays know that a civilized nation was not to be insulted with impunity. We left this scene of our resentment on the 3d inst. and proceeded to Soosoo, for the pur- pose of watering the ships, this place heing most convenient for that purpose, as the rivers run close to the sea-coast. We came to an an- chor on the same evening, and, during the few days we remained here, our boats were on the alert to fill water, escorted by a party of the marine guard, for the safeguard and protection of them and their crews, who were also well armed ; but there was no molestation what- 116 DEATH AND BURIAL. ever on the part of the natives, who were more friendly than otherwise. On the 5th inst. we lost another of our crew, named Nathaniel Tidd, by the small-pox. In the evening a boat was manned, and his earthly remains were conveyed to the offing, attended by the chaplain, and launched into the silent deep, with the accustomed form of prayers being read over them. This act of melancholy friendship being performed, the boat returned to the ship. CHAPTER X. Honor pricks me on. Yea, but if honor pricks me off, when I come on ; how tlien ? Can honor set a leg ? No. Or an arm ? No. Or take away the grief of a wound ? No. Honor hath no skill in surgery, then ? No. What is honor ? A word. Honor is a mere scutcheon j and so ends my catechism. — Falstaff^s Soliloquy. Shakspeare. Soliloquy on Honor — Seize a Proa — Description of— Death — Comments — Leave Soosoo — Poadam — Situa- tion and Character — Another Death — Penang — Arrive at — Account of— Wounded Moor — Sailor's Liberality — Malacca — Account of— Singapore — Establish a Hos- pital — Description of Singapore — Chinese Junks, &c. On the following day a boat was manned up- on a very different occasion, and the crew of the same well armed, to attack and board a large proa, which was observed to be standing in. All hands in the boat were glad of this op- portunity afforded them, and their hearts were expanded with joyous expectation, flattering themselves it might be a prize worth capture ; if not, they were in hopes of some show of re- sistance being made, as they had not forgotten the old grudge, and were quite tired with mak- 118 SEIZE A PROA. ing war in semblance ; wishing to have nothing but the true thing itself, as the cowardly Ma- lays had not as yet given them a chance of ob- taining so much as an honorable scratch to show on their return home. Our boat skimmed along the surface of the water, and was soon alongside of the enemy, pouncing upon her like an eagle on its prey ; but alas ! all hopes of a valuable prize were soon at an end ; for, on boarding her, nothing \vas found on board but the crew and cargo, which consisted of live stock, that is to say, a few women and children, who it appeared were slaves. In the refined ideas of the plant- ers of the torrid zone, slaves are always con- sidered as live stock. Such is the way of the world. The aforesaid boat was brought alongside, but afterwards allowed to proceed on her des- tination* In noticing the capture of this proa, I am led to imagine that, had she been de- tained as a lawful prize, and a division made of the property seized, it would have been the cause of some confusion, especially as far as the cargo was concerned. The wishes of most would have led them to obtain the softer sex for their share of the prize, in preference to fa- thering the children, who were their lineal de- DESCRIPTION OF A PROA. 119 scendants. However open-hearted a sailor may- be, as regards a friend or brother shipmate in distress, he notwithstanding possesses the more refined feelings of a man ; and it must be pro- verbially known, that there is a general desire to father our own children in preference to that of a stranger. The construction of these proas is very dif- ferent from our style of boat building; for the rest of the world make the heads of their ves- sels different from the stern, and the two sides alike ; but the proa, on the contrary, has her head and stern exactly alike, and her two sides very different. The side always intended to be the lee side, being flat, and the windward side made rounding, in the same manner as other vessels ; and to prevent her oversetting, which, from her small breadth and the straight run of her lee side, would without this precaution in- fallibly happen, there is a frame laid out from her to windward, to the end of which is fasten- ed a log, fashioned into the shape of a small boat, and made hollow. The weight of this frame is intended to balance the proa, and the small boat, by its buoyancy, being always in the water, prevents her oversetting to wind- ward. This frame is usually called an out- rigger. One of these proas generally carry 120 DEATH — LEAVE SOOSOO. six or seven persons, two of which are placed in the head and stern, who steer the vessel, al- ternately, with a paddle, according to the tack she goes on, he in the stern being the steers- man. The others are employed either in bail- ing out the water which she accidently ships, or in setting and trimming the sail. These proas, by sailing most excellently on a wind, and with either end foremost, can run from one island to another by merely shifting the sails, which are generally made of a kind of matting, without ever putting about ; and by the flatness of their lee side and their small breadth, they are capable of lying much nearer the wind than any other vessel hitherto known. On the ensuing day from this incident taking place, the American ship Sumatra arrived from Manilla, and came to an anchor, proceeding homewards on the following day, carrying let- ters from our ship to the general part of the relatives and friends of our crew. On the 6th we committed the remains of an- other of the crew to the deep, named Hiram Lovrein, making the third and last victim to that dreadful disorder, the small-pox ; as from this period those afflicted shortly recovered from its baneful effects. On the same day we left Soosoo, with our PUNISHMENT. 121 consort, the John Adams, for Prince of Wales Island. As soon as we had got some distance from the land, Poadara, the Malay chief, who had been our visiter from the time of our arri^ val, left us. He regretted much our departure, as he had during this interval considered the ship as his home and protection from the invet- erate animosities of the neiohborinsf chiefs^ His life on shore was one continued scene of inquietude, arising from his possessing those principles which did him honor, and because he would not in any manner connive with them in their rapacious acts of phmder and cruelty. They had made several attempts to destroy him, but were always frustrated in their mur- derous design by the interposition of Divine Providence. He had given his enemies fre- quent proofs of his manly courage and prowess when thus assailed. His followers were ex- tremely partial to him, always adhering to his fortunes and interests, with a fidelity which would put many a servile courtier to the blush. On the 19th inst. at 10, A. M. all hands were called to "witness punishment," and Benjamin Bray received twenty-four lashes, with the cats, without being tried by a court- martial. According to the articles of war, which are generally read once a month, the 11 122 STRENGTH OF CURRENT DEATH. commodore exceeded the bounds of his author- ity, as those articles expressly state that no commander, in punishing a man, shall inflict more than twelve lashes, unless he has been previously tried and found guilty by a court- martial. During this passage, but more especially on wearing Prince of Wales Island, we were obliged frequently to bring up with the stream anchor, in consequence of the strength of the currents and our proximity to the various isl- ands with which these parts abound. On the 22d, a youth named William Lyons, departed this life, of a brain fever, and his re- mains were committed to the deep, with the usivdl ceremonies. In noticing the death of this unfortunate and ill-treated young man, I am absolutely compelled to comment upon the had usage he received from the officers, as a debt of justice I owe his memory. He was a native of Cape Cod, about nineteen years of age, and was whipped nearly every day, from Norfolk to Penang, by one or other of the offi- cers, which was nearly the term of nine months, within a few days. He departed this life a day or two before the arrival of the ship at the lat- ter place. At six o'clock on the morning of liis decease, he received a dozen with the colt ; PENANG. 123 at eight, another dozen ; at ten, another ; and towards the afternoon, another. He was in perfect health in the morning. At two o'clock, P. M. he was taken sick ; at four he died ; and at six he was buried. On his death cot he was delirious, exclaiming, " Spare me, O spare me ! " and counting to himself, " One — two — three," as though he was reckoning lashes upon his back ; and bj such language too plainly expressing what was passing in his mind. This is only one instance of the cruel oppression practised over the crew by the offi- cers, but an instance which ought to cry down shame upon their heads, and which ought to be the means of depriving them of their epaulets, which such conduct has rendered them un- worthy to wear, and they could, without doubt, be bestowed on men possessing better princi- ples. On the 25th we came to anchor off Penang, the principal town and harbor of Prince of Wales Island, Point Cornwallis bearing S. E. half S. and Old Queeda N. by E. This island is under the British flag, and is situated in latitude 0° 36' south, and longitude 105° 17' east. Penang, the town off which we anchored, is situated in a complete grove, con- sisting principally of cocoa-nut trees. The 124 BENEVOLENCE. buildings are thin, but strongly built, consisting of bamboo ; but those inhabited by Europeans are modeled and erected according to the European fashion. It contains a splendid ba- zar, in which are to be found the products of both hemispheres. Its inhabitants consist of a complete mixture of various nations, from the turbaned Turk to the piratical Malay. It has a good anchorage, and is a general ren- dezvous for men of war and other shipping in the East India trade. On the earliest opportunity a boat was de- spatched on shore, for the purpose of landing the unfortunate Moor, who had lost his hand and come round with us from Soosoo. Pre- vious to his departure, the greater part of our crew, who are never backward in the cause of humanity, voluntarily subscribed the sum of one hundred and fifty dollars for his benefit, for which act of kindness he appeared ex- tremely grateful. Well he might. We received a pilot on board on the follow- ing morning, to conduct the ship to Singapore, our next destined port ; and, shortly after his appearance, we got under way, with the John Adams, for that port. During this passage we were obliged to bring up nightly with the stream anchor, pursuing our course at every possible opportunity. MALACCA. 125 On the 1st of February we were close in with the town of Malacca, which is a seaport, and the capital of the peninsula. It is in 2° 30' north, and 150^^ east. This town is ex- cellent for trade with India, and when it was first discovered by the Portuguese, who were afterwards expelled by the Dutch, Malacca was the richest city in the East, next to Goa and Ormuz, being the key of the China, the Japan, the Moluccas, and the Sanda trades. The country is now, however, chiefly valuable for its trade with the Chinese. The inhabitants in the interior parts differ little from brutes in their manner of living, and yet the Malayan language is reckoned the purest of any spoken in the Indies. Its principal produce is tin, pep- per, elephant's teeth, canes, and gums. The degeneracy of the Malayans, who were for- merly an industrious, ingenious people, is easily accounted for by the tyranny of the Dutch, whose interest it was that they should remain in a state of ignorance and slavery. Malacca was taken from the Dutch by the English, in August, 1796, before which time the latter used to carry on a smuggling trade, in their country ships, from the coast of Coro- mandel and Bay of Bengal. On the 2d February the inland about Sin- 11* 126 SINGAPORE DYSENTERY. gapore was in sight, and on the same even- ing we came to an anchor in a small cove, not being able to fetch the proper anchorage, in consequence of a strong adverse wind. On the following morning, at daylight, we hove up the anchor and beat the ship in, coming to an anchor in Singapore Roads, after a passage of twenty days from Soosoo, The town was sa- luted according to custom, the same being returned by the forts ashore. A considerable number of our men were at this particular time afflicted with sickness, arising from the dysentery ; two dying with that disorder the day after our arrival. Their remains were interred on shore, in the naval manner. This sickness was found to be the prevailing disorder of the climate, and in- creased to so alarming a degree that it was deemed advisable to send the sick on shore, as more conducive to their ultimate recovery. The patients were consequently removed from the ship until they were reinstated in health. A most convenient house was engaged for their reception, to answer the purpose of a hospital, under the superintendence of the doctor and assistants, with every necessary appendage which might in any manner tend to their com- fort or benefit. CHINESE JUNKS. 127 Our consort, the John Adams, from whom we had parted company a few days previously, arrived on the 7th inst. and came to anchor. This day we were visited by the commander- in-chief of the English forces at Singapore, which in this place consist entirely of natives, the officers only being Europeans. Singapore is one of the British settlements in India, and has a fine, capacious harbor, which is constantly full of shipping, arising from its lying in the track of the China trade. It lies in 1° 17' 22" north latitude, and 103° 51' 45" east longitude. The town is built upon a river at the south side of the island. The town and harbor are defended by a strong fort, well garrisoned, and standing in a beautiful sit- uation. The air of this island is deliciously balmy; health and beauty here revel together; nature is ever dressed in never-fading charms, and her sunny smiles are ever reflected from the human countenance. The town is about a mile and a half in length and one in breadth ; the streets are regular, and are built after the English style, with beautiful sidewalks. In addition to the variety of shipping in the harbor, I especially noticed the curious form and build of the Chinese junks ; and as an op- portunity was afforded of going on board of 128 CHINESE JUNKS. one, my curiosity, wliicli had been much ex- cited, was satisfied. I here subjoin an account of the same for the amusement or information of my readers. Of the many variously shaped vessels in which men peril their lives and fortunes on the boisterous main, these junks are the most remarkable, as well as the most frail. They nevertheless make long voyages in their com- mercial intercourse with the Philippines, Mo- luccas, and other islands of the Indian Archi- pelago, also to Java, the Malay peninsula, and the coast of Siam and Cochin China. In crossing the Chinese seas, they always take advantage of the monsoons, as, from their bulk and light draught of water, they are but ill calculated to make way against the wind ; but these operate in assisting their velocity witJi favorable winds, and, owing probably to their buoyancy, it seldom occurs that any founder. To the eye they present a large, unsightly mass, bearing, however, a striking resemblance to those of England two centuries ago, with a great sheer hulk, not unlike a half moon. They are mostly three hundred or four hun- dred tons burthen, and sometimes as much as eight hundred. Their rigging is of the sim- plest kind, consisting of two or three large CHINESE JUNKS. 129 masts, composed of a single piece of timber, much stouter in proportion than European masts, on which traverse large square sails, which are increased, according to the size of the vessel, but in number never exceeding three. These sails are of a reed or straw matting, with stout bamboos at intervals of two to two and a half feet, extending horizontally ; along the surface and to either extremity of these bamboos are attached small lines, for the pur- pose of adjusting the sails to the wind. When it is desired to reduce or reef the sails, they are rolled up from the bottom by as many of these spaces as are thought necessary. The anchors are of the rudest construction ; the material is always of wood, weighted with immense stones lashed to them, and unprovided with a stock across, to ensure its falling to the ground in a right direction. Among other peculiarities is the custom of painting a large eye on each side of the bow ; the Chinese very pertinently asking, *' How can ship see, suppose he hab no eye ? " The rudder projects from the stern similar to that of a London barge, and is generally perforated with holes, or built of lattice work, and is guided by ropes, passing from it along- side the vessel. 130 CHINESE JUNKS. Their compass is shut up in a small bowl, with a quantity of perfumed matclies stuck in sand, and which are lit on an offering being made to their deitj. The cabin is very small, and around it are the berths of the crew, just large enough to contain their persons. Each berth has a mat, and a hard stuffed cushion for a pillow. CHAPTER XI. And O, the little warlike world within — The well-reeved guns, the netted canopy — The hoarse command, the busy humming din, When at a %vord — the yards are manned on high. BVRON. Washington's Birth-Day — Missionaries — Divine Worship at Sea — More Deaths — On the Existence of a God — Proofs of the same — A Dying Scene — Chinese Admi- ral's Visit— In a Scrape myself — The Ball — Leave Singapore — More Deaths — Arrival at Macao — Intelli- gence—Stop put to Trade by the Chinese. On the 22d February, — a day never to be erased from the memories of the sons of Amer- ica, being the anniversary of the birth-day of Gen. George Washington, — on this day the yards were manned, colors displayed, and a salute iired, to commemorate the day of his nativity. A celebrated writer justly observes, that history and tradition are explored in vain for a parallel to his character : he was the founder of liberty, and the friend of man. On the following Sunday, though it rained in torrents, it did not damp the Christian ardor 132 DIVINE SERVICE AT SEA. of two American missionaries, who are sta- tioned at Singapore, and who came on board to perform divine service. One of them read the usual form of prayer, at the conclusion of which the other reverend gentleman delivered an elaborate and most impressive discourse. It was pleasurable to the feelings of all to hear his various comments, and to think that Chris- tianity and a knowledge of the holy gospel were finding their way to the very confines of the earth. On inserting this incident, it re- minds me of having omitted, in my previous observations, to mention the impression made on my mind by the performance of divine worship on board of a vessel of war. On Sunday mornings, immediately after quarters, should the weather permit, all hands are called to muster. The summons is instantly obeyed, by every one proceeding to the quarter-deck, (the sick alone exempted,) where the minister stands in readiness, arrayed in his clerical robes, and the capstern covered with the na- tional flag, to answer the purpose of a pulpit. The commodore takes his station on the weather side of the chaplain ; the lieutenants, and all other commissioned and warrant officers on the weather side of the deck ; the forward offi- cers at the fife-rail, and petty officers at the MORE DEATHS. 133 fore part of the main-mast. The blue-jackets take up their position abaft the mizzen-mast, clad in white frocks, with blue collars, white trowsers, and straw hats, looking the picture of cleanliness ; whilst the marines are stationed and drawn up in rank, on the lee side of the deck, headed by their commanding officer, all in full uniform. The whole e.n masse forms a very picturesque group. After the usual rou- tine of divine service has been performed, every monthly Sunday the articles of war are read, giving the information, that whoever infringes the rules and discipline of the service, by neg- lect of duty or other misdemeanors, shall be punished according to the regulations of the service therein specified ; that is to say, death, or worse punishment, as the sailor says. By worse punishment, he alludes to his grog being stopped, which article constitutes his principal creed. In addition to the two men who died the day after our arrival, I have the painful task to note the demise of four more, who were called away by the stern messenger of death, to their long, last home, with the same disorder, — the dysentery. In noticing this unfortunate inci- dent, I am led to comment on the death of one of the above, named Gefofge Walton 5 and with 12 134 EXISTENCE OF A GOD. all respect for the memory of the departed, I have to assure my readers that calumny is a principle I do not possess ; but I am actually led into the following observations, from the idea of benefiting those of my readers, if any, who may be living under such blind and igno- rant habits. I have to observe that he was an elderly man, and bis death gave me much scope for reflection, arising from the assertions 1 have heard him make while alive. It was ever pain-- ful to my feelings to hear him, in general con- versation with his shipmates, firmly acknowl- edge that he did not believe in the existence of a divine Creator, or an hereafter. To all brought up in the tenets of our holy religion, such an assertion of itself was enough to inspire them with horror as well as commiseration for the miserable being who could be so blind to his eternal welfare, as to avow such an opinion. Not a single moment of our lives transpires, but forcibly shows forth, by some incident or other, however trifling, the exist- ence of a divine power. Cast but your eyes upwards for a moment, and view the wondrous canopy of heaven, with its innumerable stars ; again downwards, on the expansive waters, with its finnv inhabitants^ EXISTENCE OF A GOD. 135 by which the earth is surrounded. Look to that earth itself, with its various productions for the benefit of the human race ; also to the an- imal creation and the feathered inhabitants of the air; and last, though not least, examine yourself, as one of the most wondrous works of Ms hand, Vvho has modeled and formed you as one of the lords of creation, has ennobled you with a soul, and endowed you with e\eTj faculty to fit you for free agency. If these plain, existing proofs are not of themselves sufficient to prove the supremacy of a divine God, I could enumerate a thousand others to prove the validity of my argument. Could poor, sinful mortals make the most com- mon thing in existence, without the materials ■were first provided for them, through the gen- erous influence of an all-wise Providence 1 It is true man may manufacture, and improve upon the materials given, but he cannot make even a grain of common sand. It affords me much pleasure to observe that, previously to Walton's quitting the ship for the hospital, where he died, he retracted all his former erroneous opinions. He called me one day to the side of the cot in vv'hich he was lay- ing, with the tear of contrition standing in his eye, and his voice completely choked with his 136 VISIT OF CHINESE ADMIRAL. emotions. Extending to me his hand, with- ered by sickness, he acknowledged the sinful errors he had put belief in, at the same time telling me he was thoroughly convinced there was a God, as well as a Redeemer in his divine Son. On this acknowledgment, which imparted the most genuine pleasure to my feelings, I implored him to offer up his prayers of peni- tence to his God, through the merits of his Sav- iour, as it was through his divine mediation alone that w^e were pardoned for all our sins, and cleansed from all unrighteousness. This was the last interview I had with him, as on the following day he was removed on shore to the hospital, where he died ; and though not with or near him at the time of his demise, I was afterwards informed that he died as a true penitent, the name of his Saviour clinging to his lips with his parting breath. On the 13th inst. we were visited by the Co- chin Chinese admiral and suite, whose man of war junks were laying in the roads, who came on board dressed in the costume of their country. After being shown through the ship, they took their departure, and were saluted ac- cording to custom. This day will be remembered by me as long IN A SCRAPE BIYSELF. 137 as recollection exists, as one in which I was obliged to undergo an act of the most capri- cious, revengeful, and oppressive tyranny from an officer who could satisfy his resentment in no other manner than by taking advantage of the power and authority which his commission as a lieutenant placed in his hands, and which transpired as follows : A few days previous to this transaction, Mr. Edward Goale, one of the assistant surgeons came to me and asked me if I would be kind enou2;h to take charge of the sick bay for a few days, until the return of the hospital steward from the shore, who was at- tending his duties there in the hospital which had been established. Wishing to oblige Dr. Coale, for whom at that ti?ne I had a particular regard, I acceded to Iiis request, and rendered him all the assistance in my pov.er. On this day I was coming up the after ladder with an inkstand in my hand, which Dr. Coale, then on the gun-deck, had required of me. A col- ored man, named Lloyd, ascending the ladder before me, by accident kicked the inkstand out of my hand, and a few drops of its contents sprinkled the steps of the ladder. This inci- dent w^as perceived by the master's mate of the berth-deck, named Donaldson, one of the most complete fools for an officer that ever was suf- 12- 138 IN A SCRAPE MYSELF. fered to breathe, and vvliich would be proved by the ship's company at large. This nondescript immediately reported me to the officer of the deck, who happened to be my very good friend, Mr. Turk, (most properly named,) whose eyes gleamed with revengeful satisfaction and de- light at beholding me, the object of his most capricious revenge. To speak in my own de- fence were needless ; he would not hear a sin- gle word in justification ; called a boatswain's mate and desired him to lay on to me with all his strength, who did not forget the injunction received. At this time I happened to have on a thin cotton frock, and every lash, to the num- ber of twelve, fetched a piece of flesh from my back, leaving scars which I can show to the present day. I here wish to observe that Mr. Turk had bestowed a dozen lashes on me the day pre- vious to this, for not having a piece of my wearing apparel marked. It had been marked, but the same was erased from the constant washing. On receiving this second castigation at his hands, my back was covered with plas- ters, which I was obliged to place on, from the wales I received. When Mr. Turk saw this, on repeating his tyranny the next day over me, he made use of the most merciful expres- THE BALL. 139 sion, becoming the lips of an oflScer and a gen- tleman : " You son of a b , I only wish I could cause plasters to be put on your back ^very day." I would willingly wish to do this officer all possible justice ; therefore I must say he is as smart an officer, as far as regards the duties of a ship, as he is in tyrannizing and oppressing those under his command, when he has the power. On the following day our crew were actively employed from the earlier part of the day in fitting up and dressing the ship, for the pur- pose of holding a ball on board. The colors of different nations were tastefully arranged in gay festoons; those of America and England being placed in the most conspicuous situation in the centre. A kind of chandelier was ar- ranged, formed of round hoops, covered with different colored bunting, and bayonets fastened to the same, pointed downwards, so that the upper parts of them were made to receive the candles, in the form of a candlestick. Every fanciful ornament that could possibly be mus- tered was put in requisition to give a coloring to the scene, which was picturesque in the ex- treme, more especially when lighted up on the quarter-deck, for the purpose of accommodat-^ 140 THE BALL. ing those of our visiters who felt inclined to amuse themselves on the light, fantastic toe. The company arrived in the ship's boats at 1, P. M. the same having been despatched on shore for ihem. Amongst them was the Eng- lish attorney-general and the principal inhabit- ants of Singapore. A salute was fired on their arrival, and at night commenced the dance. I was highly amused by the novelty of the scene before me. The greater part of the visiters were beautiful in form, and graceful in every motion, stepping out gayly, with the utmost spirit and freedom of movement ; while several of the men, determined to have some share in the scene before them, were also kicking up their heels forward, to the tune of " Jack's the lad," from an old humstrum of a fiddle, played by a colored man, mounted on a tub, as his orchestra. Our musician, though not possess- ing the talents of Faganiui, w as thought just as much of by the group whom he was endeav- oring to amuse with the discordant sounds from his instrument. The following directions and instructions for the information of ail sailors wlio may be in- clined to trip it, as all sailors from time imme- morial are w^ont, " on the light, fantastic toe," were recently found among the papers of the THE BALL. 141 late Sir Joseph Yorke, of facetious memory. They form a perfect vade mecum for the vahant defenders of our wooden walls, when they are " capering ashore ;" and by carefully studying this manual of " dancing made easy " to tars' capacities, the ascensus from the gun-room to the ball-room will be facilis indeed. FIRST FIGURE. Le 'pantaloon. Haul upon the starboard tack, let the other craft pass, then bear up and get your head on the other tack ; regain your berth on the larboard tack, back and fill with your partner, box-haul her, wear round twice against the sun, in company with the opposite craft and your own : afterwards box-haul her again, and bring up. SECOND FIGURE. L'ete. — Shoot ahead about two fathoms till you nearly come astern of the other craft under way ; then make a stern board toward your berth, side out for a bend, first to starboard and then to port, make sail and pass the other craft, get your head round on the other tack, another bend to starboard and port, make sail to regain your berth, wear round, back and fill, and box- haul your partner, and heave to. 142 THE BALL. THIRD FIGURE. La poiile. — Heave ahead, and pass your ad- versary yard-arm and yard-arm, regain your berth on the other tack ; in the same order take your station in the line with your partner, back and fill, fail on your heel and bring up with your partner; she then rnancEuvres ahead; heave all back, shoot ahead again, and pay off alongside ; you then make all sail in compa- ny with her till nearly astern with the other line ; make a stern-board, and cast her off to shift for herself; regain your berth by the best means in your power, and let go your anchor. FOURTH FIGURE. La Trenise.—Wear round as before against the sun ; twice box-haul the lady ; range up alongside her, and make sail in company ; when half way across to the other shore drop astern with the tide short, and cast off the craft ; now" back and fill as before, and hox- haul her and yourself into your berth, and bring up. FIFTH FIGURE. La Pastorale. — Shoot ahead alongside your partner ; make a stern-board, and all sail over to the other coast ; let go the hawser and pay off in your berth, and take a turn till the three THE BALL. 143 craft ojiposite range up abreast twice towards you, and back astern again; now manceuvring any rig you like, only under easy sail, as it is always a light breeze, easy zejjJnjrs they call it in this passage. As soon as you see their helms down, haul round in company with them on the larboard tack, and make all sail with your partner into your berth, and bring up. SIXTH FIGURE. La Finale.— Wear round to starboard, pass- ing under your partner's stern-lights, the cat- heads of the craft on your starboard bow ; then make sail into your berth, your partner passing athwart your bow ; now proceed according to the second order of sailing; complete the evo- lutions, shoot ahead and lock astern twice, in company with the wliole squadron, in circular order of sailing. Jos. Yorke, Admiral. It is well to give an occasional truce to se- rious thoughts and daily occupations. No sub- ject is so trivial but that a little research, and the art of viewing it in connection with other and greater things, can make it interesting and even useful. The present party of visiters was numerous, and they seemed much pleased with the polite attentions paid them, in addition to the amusements received^. Every thing went 144 LEAVE SINGAPORE. on with the most perfect harmony and hilarity, and they did not separate until a late hour. Our necessary arrangements having been completed at Singapore, with the return of our sick to the ship from the hospital on shore, we once more got under way, with the John Ad- ams, on the 28th March, bound to Macao, in China. During the passage we were for the most part favored with fine, pleasant weather, the breezes principally light, and we met frequently with small islands, in which the Chinese sea abounds ; in fact, too many to enumerate. That scourge, the dysentery, carried off seven of the crew during the passage, and did not re- lax in the least its sway over us, for the daily sick report generally averaged from 100 to 110 individuals, who were afflicted with it ; so much so, as to be incapacitated from performing their usual duties. On the 7th April we passed a Chinese junk, standing to the northward, and on the 27th the John Adams parted company, and directed her course for Manilla. On the 25th inst. we were amongst several Chinese fishing-boats, in hourly expectation of making the land, which we did not see until the following morning ; and on the 27th, hav- STOP PUT TO TRADE. 145 ing received a Chinese pilot on board, we came to anchor, in the roads off Macao, after 30 days' passage from Singapore. A great variety of merchant shipping were laying at anchor off Macao, as also the British sloop of war Larn, which saluted us on our arrival. We, according to the usual custom, hoisted the Portuguese colors at the fore, and saluted them with 21 guns, which was returned by the forts ashore. The first information we received of any in- terest, on our arrival, was, that all commercial intercourse between China and other nations was at a complete stand, arising from the Chi- nese having detected some European vessels smuggling opium into their country, which was prohibited, according to their established mari- time laws and regulations. In consequence of this breach of commercial intercourse, a restriction had been placed on the accustomed privileges of the British, Dutch, and American consuls, who, on that account, had presented addresses to the proper local au- thorities, requesting to return home to their re- spective countries. 13 CHAPTER XII. " Let China unfold her rich gems to the view. Each virtue, each joy to improve — O give me the fireside that I know to be true, And the fair that I tenderly love. What 's glory but pride ? — a vain bubble is fame ; What 's riches but trouble — and titles, a name ? " Description of Macao — Deaths — Lea,ve Macao — Toon- koo Bay — Account of Canton — Chinese Customs, &c. — The Bnmboat— Death and Epitaph. Macao is a Portuguese settlement. It is sit- uated in 22° ir north latitude, and llio 32' east longitude, on a rocky peninsula. It was renowned for its safe harbor long before the Portuguese settled on it. Two principal ranges of hills, one running from north to south, the other from east to west, may be considered as forming an angle, the base of which leans upon the river, or anchoring place. The level ground, with the exception of a few habitations of European architecture, is filled by the ba- zar, and a great many Chinese shops, for MACAO DEATHS. 147 tradesmen and mechanics. The stranger's at- tention is roused by a variety of public and private buildings, raised on the declivities, skirts and heights of hillocks. Macao is rendered wholesome and comfort- able by the regular monsoon winds and its streams of salubrious water, in addition to the benefit of a well-stocked bazar. It is now and then (but seldom) shaken by the convul- sions of earthquakes, but is oftener visited by dreadful typhoons, a species of hurricanes. The John Adams arrived on the 2 1st May, from Manilla. She had remained there in ex- pectation of our touching at that port, but, in consequence of our non-arrival, left again. Sickness still hung over our ship, with undi- minished intensity. We lost five more of the crew while remaining here. These frequent deaths completely absorbed us in melancholy reflections. It was no longer to be doubted that this scourge, the dysentery, which pre- vailed on board, had of late assumed an alarm- ing and fatal character. Our frigate laid at anchor about eight miles from the town, in a solitary position. On cast- ing our eyes on shore, they were at once fixed on a mountainous coast ; the sea at times gently 148 LEAVE MACAO TOONKOO BAY. agitated, at other times a calm reigned over the solitary waters. But this calm of external nature accorded ill with the painful feelings which agitated us, on so frequently beholding the earthly remains of a departed shipmate passed over the gangway, to be conveyed to its last mournful home. On the 15th of June we left Macao, with the John Adams, and proceeded to Toonkoo bay, a distance of forty miles, where both ships an- chored the same afternoon. This bay affords excellent anchorage for shipping, and is com- pletely surrounded with mountainous islands. The water we had supplied the ship with at Macao not being considered wholesome, was started, and we commenced watering the ship afresh. A smart-sailing schooner, named the Rose, was also chartered to act as a tender to the ships. This chance, in addition to our de- tention for the purpose of supplying the ships with provisions and water, afforded an excel- lent opportunity to many to employ their lei- sure time by paying a visit to Canton, — an opportunity which was embraced by many. That city is situated seventy-five miles above Macao, in 23° 7 north latitude, and 113° 7' east longitude. It is the largest port in China, ACCOUNT OF CANTON. 149 and the only one that has been much fre- quented by Europeans. The city walls are about five miles in circumference, with very pleasant walks around it. The city is entered by several iron gates, and within side of each there is a guard-house. The streets of Canton are very straight, but generally narrow, paved with flag-stones. There are many pretty buildings in this city, great numbers of triumphal arches, and tem- ples well stocked with images. It is computed that there are in this city and its suburbs 1,200,000 inhabitants, and there are often 8000 trading vessels lying before the city. The streets of Canton are so crowded, that it is difficult to walk in them ; yet a woman, of any fashion, is seldom to be seen, unless by chance, when coming out of her chair. There are some hills adjacent to the city of Canton, on which forts are built, and from which you have a fine prospect of the country, which is beautifully interspersed with moun- tains, little hills and valleys, all green ; and these are pleasantly diversified with small towns, villages, high towers, temples, the seats of man- darins and other great men, which are watered with delightful lakes, canals, and small branches 13* 150 CHINESE CUSTOMS. from tlie river Tay, on which are numberless boats and junks, sailing through the most fer- tile parts of the country. There are also many private walks about the skirts of the town, where those of the better sort have their houses, which are very little frequented by Europeans, whose business lies chiefly in the trading part of the city, where there are only shops and warehouses. The shops of those who deal in silks are very neat, make a fine show, and are all in one place. The Chinese, in their persons, are of the middle size, their faces broad, their eyes black and small, their noses blunt, and turned up- wards. They have high cheek-bones and large lips. They pluck up the hairs of the lower part of their faces by the roots, with tweezers, leaving a few straggling ones by way of beard ; and my reader must allow that " different coun- tries have different fashions." A face, titivated off in this style, would look particularly awk- ward, surrounded by the rolling collar of a long tailed blue, as worn at home nowadays by our modern dandies. Corpulence is es- teemed a beauty in a man, but considered as a palpable blemish in the fair sex, who particu- larly aim at preserving a delicacy of shape GREAT WALL OF CHINA. 151 and sliraness of body. The women have usual- ly a peculiarly arched eyebrow, — as much the effect of art as nature, — a very unmeaning face, and, among the higher classes, exceed- ingly small feet, from the tight pressure, during infancy, of small wooden shoes. According to Chinese history, this custom originated several centuries back, when a large body of females rose, and endeavored to over- throw the government. To prevent the recur- rence of such an event, the use of wooden shoes was employed on all female infants, so small as to disable them, without great pain, to make use of their feet. This custom has now become so familiar, from long usage, that a small foot is reckoned one of the greatest at- tractions a Chinese female possibly can pos- sess. The most remarkable of the remains of antiquity in the Chinese empire, is the great wall separating China from Tartary. It is supposed to extend from twelve to fifteen hun- dred miles, carried over mountains and valleys. It is in most places built of brick and mortar, which is so well tempered, that, though it has stood more than two thousand years, it is but little decayed. The wall is from twenty to twenty-five feet high, flanked with towers at 152 THE BUMBOAT. the distance of almost every hundred yards, which add to its strength, and render it much easier to be defended. It is wide enough for six horsemen to travel abreast. Having viewed all that possibly could be seen of the city of Canton, — many of whose curios- ities are debarred from the sight of the stran- ger, — our parties returned to the frigate, laying in Toonkoo bay. A transaction took place, while laying here, which excited at the time much commisera- tion for the parties concerned, the immediate sufferers on the occasion. A large boat, sup- plied with a variety of articles, and termed a bumboat, had been in the habit of coming along- side daily, for the purpose of vending com- modities to the mariners, in despite of the prohibition to the contrary from the mandarins, who had issued an especial order, that no boat whatever, from the shore, should have any intercourse with any foreign shipping, in con- sequence of the stop being p«t to trade, arising from the opium business. By this decree, they had even extended their resentment to the poorer classes of their own country. By this prohibition the proprietors of boats were de- prived of their daily subsistence, as their sole dependence rested upon their personal exer- THE BUMBOAT. 153 tions in these boats, which to them was their home, their all, their every thing, and in which there are many thousands who received their first breath, and as many part with it again in them, after having run the usual course of nature. In fact, the rivers are covered with them. They are of various sizes and construc- tions : the owners, who are of the poorer classes, generally reside in them, and they have no further communication with the shore than necessity absolutely compels. They are covered over in the after part with a kind of bamboo matting, sufficiently strong and water-proof to keep out the rain, and of length sufficient to allow them to lie down, un- exposed to sight. These poor creatures, from being confined in so small a space, and accus- tomed to squat upon their hams, are generally very awkward in their movements when upon their feet. Their male children are taught the art of swimming as soon as they know the use of their legs, until which time they wear a cala- bash suspended round their necks, to buoy them up in case of their falling overboard. Now the authorities having ascertained that there were many of these boatmen who were in the habit of communicating with the differ- ent shipping, had put their officers on the alert, 154 DEATH OF THE ARMORER. for the purpose of apprehending and bringing before them all persons so offending;. The boat which used to attend upon our ship, was among the number taken. Her crew consisted of the proprietor, his wife and child, and three men to assist in working her. These harbin- gers of justice — " heaven bless the mark ! " — not only deprived them of their boat and its contents, but also detained the woman and child. The men were fortunate enough to es- cape. I say fortunate, and not without reason, as by that means only they escaped some severe punishment ; for there is no country under heaven where persons putting the laws at defiance, even in the most trifling manner, are punished with greater severity than in China. I have omitted to remark that on the day after our arrival in Toonkoo bay, we lost the armorer, named Henry Fry, by that still preva- lent disorder, the dysentery. He will long be remembered by his shipmates as the Yorick of the ship. His loss was sincerely regretted by those who were devotees at the shrine of the merry god, Momus ; for many 's the time and oft he was wont to set their risible muscles in motion, with his crack jokes and tough yarns, which he knew very well how to extend, (a la EPITAPH. 155 mode Munchausen.) As the following lines maj not be thought amiss, by way of an epi- taph, sacred to the memory of one who knew how to beguile away many a wearisome watch at sea, I here subjoin them : EPITAPH OA^ FRY, THE ARMORER. With the nerves of a Samson, this son of the sledge, By the anvil his livelihood got ; With the skill of a Vulcan could temper an edge, And strike — loliile iJie iron icas hot. By forging he lived, yet never was tried Or condemned by the laws of the land ; But still it is certain, and can't be denied. He often was burnt in the hand. With the sons of St. Crispin no kindred he claimed > With the lo.st he had nothing to do > He handled no av:l — and 3^et in his time Made many an excellent shoe. He blew up no coals of sedition, but still His bellows were always in blast; And I will acknowledge,- (deny it who will,) That one vice, and but one, he possessed. No actor was he, nor concerned with the stage ; No audience to awe him appeared ; Yet oft in his work — like a crowd in a rage — The loud murmur oi hissing was heard. 156 EPITAPH. The steeling of axes was part of his laws ; In thieving he never was found ; And though he was constantly heating on bars, No vessel he e'er ran aground. Alas ! and alack ! what more can I say Of Vulcan's unfortunate son ? The priest and his messmates have born him away, And the sound of his hammer is done. tl^f 4|i- CHAPTER XIII. List, ye landsmen, all to me ; Messmates, hear a brother sailor Tell the dangers of the sea. Sea Song. The sea, the sea ; The open, open sea. An agreeable Surprise — Loss of a Friend— His Character, &c. — A sad Accident— Man killed — Fourth of July — Leave Toonkoo Bay— Caught in a Typhoon — Account of the same— Our Losses — Mischief done — Sailors' Opinion of the Weather — A very unpleasant Prospect — A Lee Shore— Ship drifting — The Storm breaks — A friendly Opinion. I WAS most agreeably surprised, on the 30th of June, while looking through one of the ports, on the gun-deck, to see our old bumboat, which had been taken a few days before by the officers of justice, once more alongside the ship, the owner looking over her side, grin- ning like the head of an old fiddle, and returning the nod of recognition to our wonder-struck mariners, who by this time had fancied he would have been squeezed as flat as a pancake, 14 158 LOSS OF A FRIEND. between two boards, the usual method of pun- ishment for criminal offences in Cljina. His boat had been returned to him, through the interference of some person, in the proper quarter, so that be was fully reinstated once more in liis personal property, as well as his matrimonial enjoyments, by the restitution of his better half; that is to say, his wife and child. That cruel scourge, the dysentery, still car- ried on its baneful work among our ship's company, while remaining here, five of whom fell victims, from the period of the armorer's decease, to its rancorous effects. In this un- fortunate number, I lost a highly-gifted, tal- ented,, and valued friend, named Samuel S. Penrose, of Philadelphia, Pa. a corporal in the marine guard, one who, for his estimable qualities, merited the encomium of the immor- tal bard : " Take him for all in all, I ne'er shall look upcn his like again." In recalling the past to memory, it is ever painful to the feelings, to have to regret the loss of one to whom we were cemented in the firmest bonds of friendship. In the present instance, that feeling appertains to me, al- LOSS OF A FRIEND. 169 thoiig'h my deceased friend followed but an humble capacity through his voyage of human life. He was ennobled with a soul, and en- dowed witlj natural gifts and talents, which would have done liim honor in a hi^! er >phere. He conducted himself in such a n)anner. by his (general principles through life, as would ensure him a safe anchorage in the celestial port of heaven, when at the last day, as the poet sublimely expresses, *' Yon cloud-capped toAvers, Ye gorgeous palaces, Ye solemn temples, Nay, the great globe itself, And all which it inherits, shall Dissolve ; and, like the baseless Fabric of a vision, leave Not a wreck behind." None surpassed him, and but few equaled him, in the exhibition of those kindly feelings of head and heart, which ennoble the human character, and endear man to man. He bore the pangs and privations of sickness with un- shrinking fortitude, except at momentary inter- vals, when his scattered thouglits might natu- rally wander from his sufferings to the beloved wife of his bosom, and soon to be fatherless babes. He relied, in his last momen*", upon 160 LOSS OF A FRIEND. that God's mercies whose divine Son died to save al], and with whom I trust he is now enjoying the reward of the righteous. The ways of Divine Providence are as intricate as just, and it does not behoove man to repine at its decrees, as we are led to believe that whatever the supreme Creator ordains is for the best. Yet there is, at times, a latent spark of anguish, which cannot fail to kindle at the loss of a relative or friend. I ever considered Penrose as a friend. Many a tedious and wearisome hour we have spent in each other's I;, society, in our watch on deck, relating to each *■ ' other the scenes of our earlier years, from boy- hood up to manhood. Of a fine night, we have passed the time together upon the ocean, surveying the bright luminary of night, travers- ing the starry hemisphere in all her majesty. A scene like this, was ever congenial to our feelings, for " This was a realm of solitude, — A season and a scene for thought, When melancholy Avell may brood On years that now are not." t! I cannot refrain from heaving a sigh to the I memory of departed worth and friendship, as well as expressing my sorrow for the afflicted A SAD ACCIDENT. 161 widow, and her fatherless babes, who are, as yet, unacqainted with their great and bitter loss. His remains were interred upon Toon- koo Island ; and, when leaving the ship, no feelings of sympathy could be felt more acutely, not even by those to whom he was allied by kindred, in a far distant land. On the 3d of July, a lamentable accident took place, which terminated in the death of a young man, named William Reeves. Although I have seen men die from various causes, such as cholera, small-pox, and other epidemic dis- eases ; although I have seen men hurled in an instant into eternity, both on shore and at sea, yet of all the deaths I was ever witness to, this one tended to make the deepest impression on my mind, and will ever be indelibly stamped upon my memory. It was about 1, P. M. that I was standing in the larboard gangway, looking at two of the crew who were playing at checkers, when the conversation between them happened to turn to the near approach of the 4th of July, one of them at the same time making use of the prevalent expression, " I wonder where we will be, at this time, next year." *' In Philadelphia," responded the other. " I hope so," repeated the former, " for I should much like to be there to-day." 14* 162 A SAD ACCIDENT. At this moment, the boatswain and his mates summoned all hands to furl sails ; the order was given to lay aloft for that purpose. In the midst of, and while employed in this necessary duty, our attention was aroused by a death-like scream, and a sudden plunge into the water. *'A man overboard ! " was immediately vocifer- ated by upwards of a hundred voices ; and all was hurry and confusion towairds the imme- diate scene of the accident. It appeared that the unfortunate man was stationed on the main yard, at furling sails, and had incautiously taken both hands to haul his gasket, or fasten- ing taught round the sail, forgetting the old sea maxim, of " One hand for myself, and the other for the ship." Tlie gasket broke, and he was precipitated from the main yard over- board, striking the corner of the main chains in his descent, his head coming in contact with the same, dashing out his brains, previous to the body bounding into the water, when it sunk to rise no more. An elderly man, named James Allen, jumped overboard, on the instant, to recover the body, if possible ; but his lauda- ble efforts were fruitless, as it eluded his grasp. Reader ! the unfortunate man lost was one of the two concerned in the previous conversa- tion, and who expected to be in Philadelphia FOURTH OF JULY. 163 the next year. This unfortunate incident veri- fied the saying, that " in the midst of life we are in death." This unfortunate occurrence damped the spirits of every one ; for, though the sailors are men of rough habits, their feelings are not so coarse but that they can/ee/ on an occasion like this. If they possess little feeling, or worldly consideration, they are likewise very free from selfishness. Generally speaking, they are much attached to one another, and will make great sacrifices to their mess or shipmates, when opportunities occur. On the following day, it being the 4th of July, the frigate was dressed out, and orna- mented with the colors of all nations ; and at meridian a salute was fired, to commemorate the anniversary of the day on which the sons of Columbia declared their national independ- ence. Our salute was returned by the John Adams, which ship was also decorated in a similar manner. From this period, until the time we left Toonkoo bay, nothing of any particular inter- est transpired, with the exception of several American merchant ships calling in from Can- ton, and sailing again for the United States, affording us various opportunities of sending letters home. 164 ACCOUNT OF THE TYPHOON. Having by this time victualed and supplied the ship with water, on the 6th of August we got under way from tliis place, and stood out to sea, bound to the Sandwicli Islands, with the John Adams in company, favored by mod- erate breezes and clear, pleasant weather, which, however, was destined to he but of short duration. As the sun sunk below the horizon, on the following day, the 7th inst. the thick, murky clouds that arose, sailed along with their edge as well defined as if it had been a dark screen, gradually shoving up and across the arch of the blue sky ; and, as they crept over the hori- zon, every thing assumed a deep, dusky, purple hue, which tended to heighten the gloominess of the scene. At 9, P. M. a low murmuring on the surface of the water gave the indica- tion of the approach of a squall ; but whether of wind or rain, or both, was yet to be ascer- tained. Our doubts upon the subject were soon put to an end, by finding ourselves in the midst of it, blowing as if the god iEolus him- self was heading the fray ; while Aquarius, the water-bearer, was likewise bestowing a bless- ing upon us, by a bountiful supply of rain, which came down in torrents upon our heads. This was only the prelude to the business ; for, ACCOUNT OF THE TYPHOON. 165 at 10, P. M. a heavy and sudden gust of wind split and rent to tatters the topsails, courses, and Other sails. This incident was the fore- runner and commencement of a most violent storm ; for, by this time, " Foreboding gloom o'erspread the watery plain j Dim was the sky, and silence reigned profound; Rent were the sails, while the big, hot rain, Commixed with squalls, began to patter round." Quick as thought the tattered sails were clewed up ; men aloft to unbend them, and those deemed the most necessary were sent down and replaced by others. All this was but the work of a short time, considering the various difficulties appertaining to the opera- tions, which we had to encounter from the darkness of the scene around us, which was only interrupted at intervals by the long and vivid flashes of lightning, which, on its exit, tended to make the scene more gloomy and dark than ever, and casting a shade, when ap- pearing on our countenances, of a fiery hue, that I almost fancied myself transformed from an earthly being, and had recently crossed the river Styx, for the Pandemonium of Pluto. All was anxiety and confusion until daylight, the following morning, which was, in our pres- 166 sailor's opinion of the aveather. ent situation, the greatest blessing' that could be bestowed upon us. Some were now ac- tively employed in unbending sails, and bend- ing others in their places. Some reeving fresh running gear ; others, lashing boats and spars afresh, which had been jerked from their usual places by the violent pitching of the ship, aris- ing from the heavy swell of the sea, which at this lime was running mountains high. The wind was still blowing a furious gale ; and, not being able to carry sail, the ship was laid to, .under mizzen and main storm staysails. The wreck was cleared, as well as circumstances would allow, from the violent motion of the ship ; and I could but admire the perfect cool- ness with which every order was given, as well as the alacrity shown in obeying it. The same evening, I was amused with the following conversation, which took place be- tween two weather-beaten tars, and which com- menced as follows : " Well, Bill, what do you think of it 1 " "Hard times. It blows a regular snorter— don't it 1 " " Why, yes, it does," answers Bill. " But what a pucker they must be in, in York now, in a breeze like this, with the chim- jiey-pots clattering about their upper rigging. LEE-SHORE SHIP DRIFTING. 167 For my part, do you see as how I'd sooner be where I am, in a tight ship, and plenty of sea- room to knock about in." Notwithstanding the attendant circumstan- ces, T couid not refrain from smiling; but found, on the following morning, that the latter observation of my shipmates, respecting plenty of sea-room, was rather erroneous, as we were under the unpleasant necessity of beholding the land to leeward. We also discovered that one of our boats had been washed from the stern by the violence of the waves, and we bad also lost the main royal-mast, and sprung main trysail-mast by the fury of the gale. The internal damage done did not of itself so much obtrude upon my bewildered senses, as the dreary prospects placed before my eyes of a lee shore, and that, too, upon a rocky and dangerous coast, with the ship, our whole and sole protection, still laying to, and drifting to- wards it. Divine Providence, however, in his mercy, intervened, and ordained to save us; for, at 9, A. M. the weather began to break, and, though " Lonp: raged the storm and raved, its lurid dye Mantling both sea and heaven, with aspect wild, At length the chaos cleared, and azure sky, Even like young day, when born of darkness, smiled." 168 A FRIENDLY OPINION. The wind began to moderate by degrees: the rain had ceased, and the loud rumbling noise of the distant thunder was heard no more. More sail was put upon the ship, which bore us joyfull}' from our impending danger, — a lee shore, on the coast of China. In the course of a short time, our exertions were crowned with the pleasing gratification of beholding every thing in ship-shape ; that is, in its proper place and position. In the midst of the storm, I imagined to myself, if some of my more domesticated friends at home had been with me for a short time, I can venture to say they would never wish to make their second appearance as an actor upon the boards, in the nautical drama of a typhoon or Chinese hurricane. CHAPTER XIV. When as the midnight wa,tch I keep, I view the sparkling sea ; While round my messmates careless sleep, Dear girl, I fondly think of thee. Remembrance paints the last adieu, When you loudly wept, and sobbed, — " be true." Island of Formosa — Marines and Mariners — Muster the Watch — Laughable Mistake— Moonlight Scene at Sea — A cruel Scene — The Man overboard— Cross the Me- ridian — Change the Time— Arithmetic in Matrimony — Make the Sandwich Islands — Afflicting Scenes of Death during the passage — Arrive at Oahu — Anchor off Honolulu. From the period in which we had encoun- tered the heavy storm, until the 14th of August, nothing particular transpired worthy of notice, more than occasionally sighting several small islands, with which these seas are generally known to abound. On this day we were close in with the island of Formosa, situated 90 miles east of Canton, and lies in between 119° and 122° of east longitude, and 22^ and 25° north latitude. It 15 170 MARINERS AND MARINES. is subject to the Chinese, who, notwithstanding its proximity, did not know of its existence till the year 1430. It is about 85 leagues in length, and 25 in breadth, with a chain of mountains running from north to south, which divide it into two parts. A few nights afterwards, I was an eye-wit- ness to a scene, it being my watch out, which for the time much amused me, taking place between a boatswain's mate, and a person, who shall be nameless, attached to the marine guard* I would first wish to inform my reader that, though the words marine and mariner differ by one small letter only, there are no two races of men differ from another more completely, than the jollies and the johnnies. The marines are usually enlisted for a longer period, as in the army, and, when not employed afloat, are kept in the barracks, in such constant training, under the direction of their officers, that they are never relieved for one moment from the influence of strict discipline and obedience. The sailors, on the contrary, when their ship is paid off, are turned adrift, and so completely scattered abroad that they generally lose, in the riotous dissipation of a few weeks, or it may be days, all they have learned of good order i MUSTER THE WATCH. 171 during the previous three or four years. Even when both parties are placed on board of a ship, and the general discipline maintained in its fullest operation, the influence of regular order and exact subordination is at least twice as greai over the marines as the saihirs. Many, I may say most, of their duties are entirely dif- ferent. It is true both the marines and seamen pull and haul at certain ropes leading along the quarter-deck ; both assist in scrubbing and washing decks ; both eat salt junk and drink grog, sleep in hammocks, and keep watch at night ; but in almost every other thing they differ. As far as the marines are concerned, the sails would never be let fall, reefed, or rolled up: there is, I believe, even a positive navy or- der against their being made to go aloft. The ludicrous incident alluded to, transpired a i'ew minutes after midnight. The starboard watch had been called, the larboard relieved, and the former o^one throujj-h the reofular and O o c usual ordeal ofnjuster, to ascertain whether any were missing, by being still in their hammocks, ;iiugly moored in blanket bay, and not think- ing of the requisition for their services on deck. Now there chanced to be two individu- als on board of the ship similar in name, though 172 LAUGHABLE MISTAKE. very dissimilar in occupations ; the one being a inariner, attached to the "blue-jacket " corps, the other a marine, belonging to that body of men from which he derived this particular ap- pellation. On mustering the watch, the " blue- jacket " was found to be an absentee from the duties of his watch ; but at that time he was sick in his hammock, on the doctor's list, which exempted him from duty. This circum- stance was not known to the officer who had mustered them. The other person bearing a simihir name was also excused from the night- watch, in consequence of the peculiar duties he had to attend to throughout the day. The word was passed for the " blue-jacket," and the lungs of the boatswain's mate were put in full force in calling the name of this poor in valid and solitary individual, who made no an- swer. But the marine, on hearing the loud repetition of his name, bolted upright in his hammock, looking the picture of astonishment, and answered with a spontaneous " Halloo ! " and " what the devil do you want 1 " " O, you are there, are you 1 " replied Pipes, ignorant who the responser might be. " You had bet- ter " halloo," and make a move on deck ; foH if I come athwart your hawse, I '11 give yoii| such a starting as will bring salt water teari MOONLIGHT SCENE AT SEA. 173 into your eyes, and let you know what 't is to skin a live eel for supper." The marine, who was completely thunder- struck on hearing this threat, immediately an- swered, " If f do go on deck, I do ; but if I do, I hope to be d — d ; and if you venture to come within musket shot of me, for the purpose of using your fly-flapper, you will find me fully prepared to give you a crack on your knowledge- box that shall raise a bump that will astound and astonish the most learned in phrenological science." By this time it was found to be a mis- take, and the affair ended. On the 25th inst. we were in sight of the island of Tunachi, situated on the coast of Ja- pan. These islands are numerous, and lie about 150 miles east of China, between the 30th and 41st degrees of north latitude, and be- tween the 130th and 142d of east longitude. The next morning, about 1 o'clock, my watch being on deck, I was relieved by a messmate, who informed me that another of our friends was drawing near the close of his earthly career. The moon had just risen, and cast a long, trembling wake of silver light on the surface of the water, sparkling like dia- monds in the distance, while the darkened half of her disk was as perfectly visible as if it had 15* 174 A DyiNG SHIPMATE. been half silver and half bronze. Her mild light, however, was not strong enough to quench the host of glittering stars that studded the arched firmament, which was without a cloud. I was contemplating the gorgeous scenery before me, which was adapted to ele- vate the thoughts " from nature up to nature's God," when this startling intelligence of the situation of our friend was communicated to me. I immediately proceeded to his cot, which was hanging on the berth-deck, and on view- ing the scene around me, entered into a new train of reflections, on the uncertainty of hu- man life, reminding me of some lines which I had perused when a boy, and which appeared well adapted to the present scene. " At lliis still hour of night, when the clouds are dark and deep, And all the stars sealed up, the world asleep, Stretched on pallet low, behold my shipmate lies, "With fever stricken frame, and hollow eyes ; Now, while wild phantoms whirl his throbbing brain, I watch his slumbers, and strive t' allay his pain ; Exert my utmost to fill up life's contracted span With kindliest offices to this my fellow-man." Words are inadequate to express in terms sufficiently forcible the horrors of the scene by which I am at present surrounded. My pooi A CRUEL SCENE. 175 messmate, William Dean, has just breathed his last, and yielded up his soul to his Maker. He is now under the half-deck, laid out in his best clothes, and covered with the national colors. There are upwards of 120 men still lying in their cots, most of them absolutely dying for want of proper sustenance. God in heaven ! what was the reason proper stores, and plenty of them, were not laid in for these unfortunate sick men 1 Most of their daily rations allowed by government have been stopped by the sur- geon and his assistants. What has become of the money 1 Why not expend it upon the sick, and dispense with the wine in the cockpit, which should have been bestowed upon the sick and weak ? These are facts which can be proved, to the disgrace of those who were their cause. This morning, at 1 o'clock, I was an observer of a scene which would actually have disgust- ed and disgraced the most unfeeling monster that was ever suffered to walk upon the face of the earth. Painful as it is to my feelings to expose one who walks in a high and responsi- ble situation of life, I consider it a duty I owe the world at large to do so, when I see that man disgrace that responsibility, and trample under foot all the laws and rights of civilized human- 176 A CRUEL SCENE. ity. The deed I am about to relate was com- mitted by the commodore, with the most cool dehberation, and took place as follows : The commodore was walkings on the weather- side of the quarter-deck with the officer of the watch, and through tl>e latter an order was given to take the second reef in the main top- sail. The topmen, who were not already aloft, lay up for that purpose ; and in consequence of not being smart enough in reefing the sail, the whole, to the number of thirteen, were called down, and were then and there told by the commodore that they were a set of lazy sons of b-T-s. These men, my readers, could scarcely crawl round the decks, that is comparatively speaking, the greater part of them ; as at this period nearly the whole of the ship's compa- ny was laid down with the dysentery, and were dying daily, frequently to the number of two, or sometimes three. For this affliction of the Almighty, no allow- ance was made by this humane commander ; but he swore he would flog every one of them. The threat was immediately put in execution ; the gratings were rigged, quarter-masters and boatswain's mates called, men stripped and seized up, and suffered the disgraceful castiga-^ lion, while their bones were actually coming A CRUEL SCENE. 177 through their skins, and their emaciated forms trembling from weakness, the effect of long- continued and wasting disease. The reflection of the moon at times gave me an opportunity of looking up in the face of this sea-monster — for what else can 1 term him 1 — and iiothing met my gaze but the linea- ments of pride, hatred, and revenge. A few days after this disgraceful transaction, he ordered all the sick in the ship on the quar- ter-deck, and plainly told them that the greater part of them were a set of skulking sons of b — s, and he only wished he could take them back again to Toonkoo bay, where they might die and be d — d. I would wish to ask if this conduct is to be or will be tolerated by any laws, either martial or civil ? Will not some authority take cogni- zance of it ? These facts can be proved by up- wards of three hundred men now in the city of Boston. We continued on our passage from this pe- riod with steady breezes, and at times rather chilly weather, as we had been stretching away to the northward, v/hen the wind would enable us so to do. On the 21st of Sept. at 7, A. M. I had seat- ed myself on one of the cannonade slides, and, ,178 THE MAN OVERBOARD. ere many minutes expired, had sunk into an ab- stracted yet not unusual revery, musing over the past, the present, and making a fruitless endeavor to fathom the future, when I was suddenly startled by the cry of a " man over- board ! " and yet astonished, by the calm, collected conduct, and self-possession of the officer of the deck, who immediately cried out, " Cut away the life buoy ! let go the lee mam and topsail braces ! man the main clew garnets and buntlines ! up main-sail ! call away the larboard quarter-boat ! " The boat was manned, and an officer jumped in, and pulled away to save the drowning man, who in the mean time was safely hauled on board, by means of a rope from the fore chains, puffing and blowing like a grampus; and on finding himself once more standing upon a solid footing, exclaimed, " Arrah-boy, don't bother me ; long life and prosperity to that good old motto, which says, sure * a man that's born to be hanged will never be drowned,' — not that I intend to be exalted so high, at all at all, but leave that peculiar situation for my betters. Och, sure, do you thiidi [ don't know what good breeding manes — thank God, old Davey Jones hasn't got his grip on me yet, and I hope to spend many a day, sure, in my father's CHANGE THE TIME. 179 mud edifice, blessed with the smiles of my charmino- Kathleen, for och, sure " Love is the soul of a nale Irishman. He loves all the lovely; loves all that he can, With his sprig of shelalagh and shamrock so green." On the 26th of September, in consequence of having crossed the meridian of 180'^, we added twenty-four hours to our time, making two Thursdays in the week, as also two similar dates in the month. This digression from the Usual course of old father Time very much puzzled the brain-box of a great many, who were not quite so learned as Sir Isaac Newton, in astrological observations, and the other inci- dents attending the earth's diurnal motion. In fact, there were many curious observations passed, among the men, on this circumstance. Some saying, as there was another day added to the black book of fate, there ought to be an extra daily allowance of provisions and grog served out, so as not to allow old father Time to get a point to windward of them. One, in particular, on being asked the reason of the change, very laconically answered, he did not know or care, for he always left those matters to his wife, who was more learned on those points than himself, for she had once com- 180 ARITHMETIC IN MATRIMONY. pletelv puzzled him with her proficiency in an affair of this kind. It appeared, from the ex- planation given, that three months after he had entered into tlie hoiy banns of matrimony, he was blessed by his partner with a chopping boy, giving him an undisputed title to be called papa. This unlooked-for event took place on his return home from a short trip to sea of about ten or eleven weeks. He said that he thought there was a mistake in his wife's log, some how or another, and immediately put a question to her upon the subject, wishing to know how the dickens she could make nine months out of three. " Why, you great fool," she replied, "have /not been lawfully married to you [worse luck] three months 1 " " Yes ; have not you been married to me three months ?" " True." " Well, does not three and three make six?" "Certainly." " You have been to sea three more months, which, added to the six, makes nine. You cruel fellow, for sus- pecting me, and allowing the devil to put non- sense into your head." My poor shipmate was completely puzzled by this rule of arithmetic. He says all he could do was to scratch his head, say that's all right, bless God for giving him such a scholar for a wife. And from that day of reckoning he had not, nor ever would, , AFFLICTING SCENES OF DEATH. 181 bother his brains about tiraa, either in the shape of days, weeks, or months. Nothing particular transpired, until the 6th of October, when we made Atooi, one of the Sandwich Islands, the north end bearing E. S. E. On the following day, we also saw the islands of Tooati and Morotoi, and on the 9th discov- ered the island of Oahu, but did not come to an anchor until the next day, when we brought up off the town of Honolulu, after a passage of sixty-six days from our last port, during which time that cruel scourge, the dysentery, snatched away twenty-five more of our crew to the realms of death, and upwards of sixty more individuals lying down on a bed of sickness, arising from its woful effects. It would be actually a matter of impossibil- ity to describe, in language sufficiently forcible, the state of my own feelings on this painful and mournful occasion, to behold my ship- mates, most of them in the earliest bud of youth, snatched away to the dreary mansions of the king of terrors, and not unfrequently to the number of two or three each day. Nothing but the most despairing regret was to be seen on the countenances of all. Cast my eyes which way I would, nothing met their glance but the cheerless prospect of the wasted 16 182 MELANCHOLY CONDITION. form, the pallid countenance, the hollow cheek, or sunken eye of my dying companions, with all the paraphernalia of sickness attend- ant on human nature, at its last stage of mortal existence. Tliat man must indeed be callous to tlie more refined feelings of the human heart, who could witness a scene like this in silence or unmoved ; it tended to impress the mind with more than religious awe, in viewing this general wreck of human nature. CHAPTER XV. Give honor to their memories who left the pleasant strand, And died on board a ship of war, far from their native land ;" Who left their chance of quiet age, and gi-assy church-yard grave, To leave their ashes on a foreign shore, or amidst the tossing wave. Author. Salutes, Visits, &c. — The Missionary — Account of the Sandwich Islands — Description of Honolulu — Manners, Customs, Dress, &c. of the Natives — The King's Visit — A short sketch of Nautical Life, with an unfeeling Transaction, Shortly after our arrival, we adopted the usual custom of firing a salute, which was re- turned by the fort at Honolulu. The like coui- pliment was also paid to the American, Brit- ish, and French consuls, who visited the ship. The John Adams, from which we had parted company several days before, also arrived, and came to anchor. On the first Sunday after our arrival, one of the American missionaries came on board, and, after the usual course of prayers had been read, delivered a very impres- sive discourse. I could not fail to notice his concluding re- 184 ACCOUNT OF SANDWICH ISLANDS. marks, wherein he stated that the period of twenty years had nearly elapsed since he had left the wharves of Boston, as an humble mes- senger of the divine word, and during that time upwards of 18,000 of the natives of these islands, who had previously been living in a state of the most barbarous ignorance, had been converted to a state of religious civiliza- tion, and a knowledge of the holy gospel. This observation could but please the feelings of the true Christian ; as at the same time it reminded me of the words of Pope, who says, Father of all, in every age, In every clime adored ; By saint, by savage, or by sage — Jehovah, Jove, or Lord. The Sandwich Islands, of which Oahu is one, are a group situated in the South Sea, among the last discoveries of Captain Cook, who so named them in honor of the Earl of Sandwich, under whose administration these discoveries were made. They are eleven in number, extending in latitude from 18° 54' to 22° 15' north, and in longitude from 150° 54' to 150° 24' west. They are called by the natives, Owhyee, Mowee, Ramai, Mor- otoi, Taonka, Oahu, (where we were laying,) Atooi, Neeheehow, Morotoi, and Tahoora, ACCOUNT OF SANDWICH ISLANDS. 185 all inhabited, with the exception of the two last. The island of Oahu, is imagined to be the finest one of the whole group. It is seven leagues northwest of Morotoi, and is supposed to contain upwards of 60,000 inhabitants. Honolulu, the principal town of this island, is not only the capital, but is also the chief residence of the king of the Sandwich Islands. It is irregularly laid out, the houses being en- closed by adobes ; that is, large blocks of sun^ dried clay, and its aspect is rendered very cheerless, by being almost entirely without trees. Most of the houses are composed of a sort of thatch, and in form much resemble ricks of sun-burnt hay. The population of this town is supposed to be between six and seven thou- sand, of which number there are a great many foreigners, chiefly Americans, engaged in trade. The original inhabitants, or more properly termed the Kenackers, as far as their means la'ill allow, ape the costumes of foreigners, so that the street scenes in this place are as vari- ous as they are grotesque. For instance, you will see some entirely naked, with the excep- tion of a garment, which is very small, being merely a string about the loins, to support a 16* 186 HORSE RACE. fold of native cloth, worn perpendicularly be- tween the limbs, which is called a tappah. Others, in addition to this, will add an old cast-ofF vest, coat, pantaloons, or shirt, and, with either one of these articles, consider themselves in full dress. The women generally wear a loose slip, or gown, and are particularly fond of stringing flowers into necklaces, and other fanciful orna- ments. Very few of them will encumber their feet with shoes or stockings, but at the same time display well tatooed ankles. Their com- plexion is olive, and their general appearance, on the whole, is agreeable, I was one day an eye-witness to a scene on shore, which gave me a convincing proof, also, of their strength of nerve and activity, — a scene which tended not only to amuse, but per- fectly astonished me. It was a horse race, which took place on a level plain, the competi- tors being two respectable merchants, (as I was informed,) on the one side, and two good-look- ing girls, about seventeen years of age, on the other. The horses, which were thorough- bred Hawaiian coursers, were owned by some of the nabobs of the island, who were the prin- cipal supporters of the turf The prize to be contended for was a purse of fifty dollars. HORSE RACE. 187 The usual notice having been given, that the king would preside at the sports of the day, on his arrival with Governor Boki, the signal was given, and the steeds entered the field of com- petition, arrayed in very gaudy, yet tawdry trappings. Next came the two Kenacker girls, and took their stations at the starting post, after giving a sudden spring into their saddles, with the most perfect ease and nonchalance. They were in a perfect state of nudity, with the exception of a tappah, — a small piece of ribband which fastened their hair behind, and large bracelets and anklets. At the same time, I noticed the various ornamental devices which were tatooed on their ankles. There, they sat until the time of starting, seated in the same position, as all chevaliers are when on horseback, looking like two of the sylph-formed nymphs of chaste Diana's train, arrayed in nature's sweetest charms, and blushing like the mountain rose. At the appointed signal, away they all started at full tilt, and with the utmost speed ; the male competitors at first taking the lead, which I regretted to see, as the wishes of the greater part of the spectators were for the success of the fair Amazonians. Those wishes were gratified ; for, after running about a mile, they passed their opponents, putting their pant- 188 THE king's visit. ing steeds to their utmost mettle, keeping the distance they had gained, until the conclusion of the race, which they won in a most gallant style. Their equestrian skill and agility met with the success it deserved ; and I could but fancy that the defeated parties might have found ^orae other amusement, than risking their own necks, and that of these two poor girls, independent of the little honor that would have accrued to them, had they gained the race. The shame of defeat was something like a dose of castor-oil, difficult to be gulped down ; and they left the course, completely mortified and crest-fallen, at their being de- feated by two women. On the 24th inst. the king of these islands, accompanied by his sister and retinue, visited the ship. On his arrival, the yards were manned, and a salute fired, of twenty-one guns. He appeared to be about 25 years of age, of a colored complexion, expressive features, and on the whole rather good looking. He was dressed in full uniform, consisting of a hand- some blue cloth coat, with scarlet facings, a pair of splendid and very large gold epaulets, white vest, fawn-colored trowsers, and cocked hat, ornamented with a cockade and gold lace. I also remarked the splendid scabbard which DRESS. 189 bung by his side, containing bis sword, which was of the first workmanship. There was nothing remarkable in the appearance of his retinue ; they were habited in the European costume also, {tout d la mUitmre,) reminding me of the dress of the French gens d^armes. On the whole, the confinement of their limbs n clothing, seemed to be irksome ; and I very much doubt if they would not rather be clothed in their birth-day suit, as they were when these islands were first discovered. The king's sister was also dressed in the European style. At a distance, she forcibly reminded me of one of our modern belles ; her dress would have done credit to a first-rate milliner, and she appeared as though she had been turned out of a bandbox, off hand, with- out spot or blemish. I regret much I could not meet with an opportunity to view her counte- tenance, as I am myself a great admirer of the fair sex, — that is, as far as is consistent with politeness, and those attentions which their delicacy of nature so peculiarly demand at our hands. In perusing the following sketch, I would wish my readers to know that I do not write it from any fit of spleen or malice, or from any private injury that /may have sustained, but to aid in 190 NAUTICAL LIFE. imprinting indelibly on my memory the impres- sion made by a cruise around the world, on board of a man of war, and likewise to serve me as a caution, ever to be aware of the un- principled arts of the abandoned and profli- gate. I trust my better sense and judgment will so model my feelings, as to take an exam- ple by the conduct and general behavior of those who walk in a higher sphere of nautical life, and by whom I am at present surrounded. There is, my reader, a vast difference in the respective situations of a citizen, and that man who is doomed to wander from one confine of the earth to the other, and who is only to be compared to a bird of passage. He who exists within the precincts of a city, amid the noisy din, and brawling of the multitnde, en- gaged in their various daily occupations, can, if so inclined, collect to himself a few moments in the course of the day, or at least the night, when he can withdraw from the bugtle and tur- moil, attendant on business, and seclude him- self from the gaze of the vulgar, and indulge in his own thoughts, feelings, sorrows, or passions, without fear of being scoffed at by the mali- cious, the ignorant, or the slanderer. He exists in the bosom of his family, surrounded, as circumstances may be, by his parents, wife, NAUTICAL LIFE. 191 children, brothers, sisters, and friends, enjoy- ing the sweet tranquillity of domestic happi- ness. Now, my reader, " mark the contrast," The man pursuing his career of life on the bosom of the wide and expansive ocean, on board of a man of war, is differently situated. There is no retiring from the crowd, no such thing as seclusion, no going beyond the sound of cursing and blasphemy, no time or place for con- templating and admiring the beauties of nature. That alone is unlike all other situations of life, and I can only compare it to the world in min- iature ; it in reality being a world of itself Truly did Shakspeare speak, when he said, " All the world 's a stage, And men and women merely players." Here are collected together, in one vast as- semblage, a body of men, from the true gen- tleman to the lowest vagabond ; from the reli- gious to the blasphemer. In fact, a community of this kind consists of men of every descrip- tion, including the abandoned and profligate. Here are to be found the thief, the seducer, the gambler, the drunkard, and the unfortunate exile or wanderer. Yiere^ also, is to be found the man of honesty, the man of honor, the truly religious, and the truly temperate. Also 192 UNFEELING TRANSACTION. here is to be found the man of unbiased prin- ciples, who would not swerve from his duty at any price. Various are the enormities which are daily committed on board of a ship of war. I will merely note one as an illustration, whereby an idea may be formed, respecting the character of the greater ones. The cir- cumstance to which I am alluding came under my observation a {"ew evenings since, while laying in this harbor ; and I can positively assure my readers, that I do not insert it from any injury sustained on my part, more than regret of feeling, at seeing, and being obligated to be an eye-witness of such cold, brutish, and reckless depravity, inherent among many, at the time a fellow-mortal was in the agonies of death. On the evening of this day, after the sun- down drum had rolled off beat to quarters, and sounded the retreat, the night pennant hoisted, also tlie hammocks piped down, hung up, and the crew dispersed in different directions, I seated myself on one of the shot-boxes between two of the guns on the spar-deck. It was now twilight ; the sun was just sinking in the hori- zon, the beautiful refulgent clouds, with their variegated hues forming a vast canopy, raised to a great height in the centre, gradually de- clining as the eye extended, until it finally shut UNFEELING TRANSACTION. 193 down on the ocean. All around formed one vast variegated dome, recalling vividly to my mind the romances of the Houris, and the fairy land that I used to peruse in miy boyish days. While admiring this beautiful scene, my attention was aroused by the sound of revelry proceeding from forward. I instantly, from motives of curiosity, proceeded to the scene of merriment, where I found a gang of twenty or thirty engaged in singing, or rather roaring, in a boisterous manner. Proceeding farther, I found several others engaged in dancing, I was about to say ; but there I should be wrong, as it was only an apology for that polite recrea- tion, so I will say kicking up their heels, as gracefully as young bears, stamping heavily on he deck to various tunes played fron» an old fiddle. Tliere was still another scene, and one of a much more serious nature, at this particular time, transpiring under the half deck,— a scene which ought to have impressed upon the minds of these reckless, thoughtless, and cold-hearted ndividuals ideas of a different description tlian those to be derived from revelry and mer- riment, A solitary individual was here stand- ng by the side of a cot, at the foot of which a antern was suspended by a rope-yarn, while 17 194 UNFEELING TRANSACTION, the faint rays which it emitted fell upon the pale features of an emaciated being, in the last agonies of death, on the eve of being ushered into eternity, without a friend to soothe his dying moments, or a hand to alleviate his suffer- ings, save the coarse attentions of a rough messmate ; no voice imparting consolation to his ear, no sound save the heedless merriment of those whom I have already noticed. This is only one of the many similar occur- rences which transpire daily on board of a man of war, where power is unbounded, and one absolute will reigns unchecked. CHAPTEE XVI. All the world 's a stage, and men and women Merely players. — They have their exits and their entrances ; And one man in his time plays Many paits. Shakspeare. Moralizing — On Men and Manners — More Deaths — Dis- agreeable Word — Cure for the Scurvy — My humble Opinion — Principal Diet of the Islanders — Manner of Cooking — John Adams leaky — Whale Ships— Opinion of a Blubber Hunter. The reader of this humble work must excuse me for continuing the subject with which I conchided the last chapter. No doubt there are many who will say, " Is it possible that a man who follows the sea, especially on board of a man of war, can thus moralize upon the infirmities of the human mind ? " I respect- fully answer them, "Yes; such a man am I; driven, by domestic troubles and afflictions, an unwilling exile from my native land, — not from any point of crime, but those misfortunes usually attendant on too much generosity of principles." Therefore I trust my readers will 196 MORALIZING. excuse me for continuing my moralizing a little farther. I have surveyed men and man- ners, as they are, v/here I am at present situ- ated ; and I will now place myself in each respective character to be found here, to con- vince my readers what I wish men and man- ners should be. First, — the gentleman. In attempting to personate this character, I may be thought ambitious. Let it be so. Had it pleased Providence to have placed me in a sphere of life different from my present one, I flatter myself the urbanity of my general disposition and refinement of manners, would have gained me the estimation of my superiors, the love and regard of my equals, and the most defer- ential respect from my inferiors. Even in my humble walk of life, I have always shown def- erence to the former, good and friendly regard for the second, and, from a natural feeling I possess, which sets aside all distinction be- tween me and my fellow-men, unless on a point of duty, I have ever been respected by the third and last. When a man is placed in a station over his fellow-men, it rests entirely with liimself to be either loved and respected, or hated and despised. If the former, the prin- ciple to be adopted is, if possible, to anielio- MORALIZING. 197 rate the situation of those under him by every kind attention within his power ; redress their grievances, and, if they themselves are the offending party, not to condemn unheard, or punish without the strongest and most evident proofs of their guilt. For, when a spiteful or malicious man, placed in a situation over his fellow-men, and endowed with a trifling power, has a mind to glut his appetite in any respect, innocence, or even merit, is no protection against him. The cries of justice and the voice of reason are of no effect upon a con- science hardened in malice, and a mind versed in a long practice of tyranny and oppression. Remonstrances, however reasonably urged, or movingly couched, have no more influence upon the heart of such a man, than the gentle breeze has upon the oak, when it whispers through its branches, or the rising surges upon the deaf rock, when they dash and break against its side. Persons should never be entrusted with pow- er, who have more regard to the gratification of their own resentful feelings than to peace and justice, and who will turn a deaf ear to those who are placed in a more humble walk of life than themselves, although their cause, at the same time, may be founded on the basis 17* 198 MORALIZING. of truth and justice ; in proof of which, this morning I saw a man, named Thomas Hodson, punished for one of the most ludicrous things imaginable. Lieutenant Pahxier was officer of the watch. He is one of those persons who consider none so good-looking or well- informed as themselves, — a regular would-he modern dandy. In fact, at times, according to the way he struts, the deck is scarcely good enough for him to walk upon. He is nick- named " the lady-killer " by the crew, in con- sequence of his pride and dandyism. The man above alluded to had been into the head, and on his exit from the same left the door open, which was perceived by the officer, who immediately called him aft to the main- mast, and asked him how he dared to presume to leave that door open, when he was officer of the deck; at the same time sending for a boat- swain's mate, and bidding Tom stand up to receive the lashes. Poor Tom tried to excuse himself, but it was of no use. Lieutenant Palmer would not hear a word. The offence was too heinous, to his very delicate and sen- sitive smelling organs ; so, tucking his fingers into the pockets of his waistcoat, he exclaimed, "You be d — d, sir! stand up there." Tom stood up, took his " dowry," and made his exit, MORALIZING. 199 exclaiming, when out of hearing, " Why does not that lady-killer carry a bottle of eau de Cologne in his pocket 1 " I consider this the worst place that ever a man made his appearance in for the sake of bettering his circumstances, if he has run away with the foolish idea that he could do so by his fingering tactics, or, more properly, conveying the property appertaining to his neighbor, to himself. A general conveyancer, of this de- scription, is as contemptible as dishonest. That man who would enrich himself by repeated acts of plunder from his various shipmates, — many of whom might be in worse circumstances than himself, — deserves to be punished with the utmost severity and rigor. Every man will allow, with myself, that more honor (if there be any attached to it) is shown by that man who will expose himself on the highway, obeying the dictates of his ne- farious and sinful calling, by robbing from the rich to bestow upon the poor. The seducer has here ample opportunities of reflecting on the cruel, brutal, and sinful con- duct he has been guilty of in destroying forever the peace of mind of that helpless individual whom he had so incessantly bound himself, by oaths and protestations, to cherish and protect, 200 BIORE DEATHS. before she yielded to his fickle embraces, and made him master of her honor. The daily scenes here, under his observation, will recall to his mind the scenes of more halcyon days, when blessed in the society of his unfortunate and distressed victim, and cause him to regret their departure and long for their return, under different ideas and more honorable principles. The drunkard I need not comment upon, as my readers have already had my opinion on the subject of intemperance, in the third chap- ter of this book. The unfortunate exile, or wanderer, it would be of no use for me to personate, as I am here as such, in propria persona. I now return to my history of the cruise, and regret much to observe, that, during our stay in this port, we lost several more of the men by the dysentery, and their remains were conveyed on shore for interment. These frequent scenes of death, and being literally obliged to be an unwilling spectator of them, were enough to daunt any one. Placed as I am, I consider my body, or at least the services exacted from it, to belong to my employers. I was going to observe that I could scarcely call my soul my own ; but there I should be wrong, as that would be a catachresis, — and I hate and abom- DISAGREEABLE WORD. 201 inate a cat, and every thing which begins with cat. It is singular that they are all unpleas- ant, unlucky, or unsafe; for instance, — cata- comhs reminds you of death, funerals, and mummies ; catalogue^ sale of effects, — some poor devil done up ; cataplasm^ a boil or sore poulticed ; cataract^ sore eyes and devastation ; catarrh, bad cold, head stuffed, running of the glands ; catechism, equally unpleasant in youth or marriage ; categorical^ argument which is detestable ; caterpillars, beasts who foul na- ture ; caterwaul, horrid variety of love ; catgut^ street music from a hurdy-gurdy ; catspaw, at sea in a calm, with a prize in sight. As for cats themselves, I cannot say too much against them; and it is singular that other meanings of the single word are equally disagreeable ; as, to cat the anchor, is a sign of going to sea ; and that woful cat at the gangv/ay, possessing nine tails, is the worst cat of all. Those of our crew who were in a state of convalescence, were occasionally permitted to take a run on shore, for the purpose of re- cruiting their health ; and several, who were afflicted with the scurvy, underwent the opera- tion of being buried in the earth, up to the chin, which is supposed to be a cure for that disorder. 202 JOHN ADAMS LEAKY. A prescription of this kind I do not consider at all desirable, as I should not approve of being buried up to my neck in the soil, in a lone spot, and, on casting my eyes around, to behold the very comfortable prospect of a whole flock of turkey buzzards, hovering over my head, ready to pounce down on my peri- cranium. Notwithstanding this island abounds with fish, flesh, and fowl, in profusion, the na- tives kill dogs, which are fattened for the pur- pose, the same as we would hogs at home, and when cooked, are considered by them as the richest epicurean dish they have. Having no ovens, they cook their food in holes in the ground, lined with large stones, which are made hot, and then covered over to retain the heat. During our stay in Honolulu, we lost ten more of our crew with the dysentery, and their remains were sent ashore from the ship, for the purpose of being interred. Our stay in this port was also procrastinated longer than was at first intended, it having been discovered that the John Adams was in rather a leaky condition. It appeared that, after parting company with us on the last passage, she had experienced another severe WHALE SHIPS. 203 and heavy gale of wind, off the Bonin Islands, to which the leak was attributed, as she had labored much. After undergoing a thorough scrutiny, the leak was happily discovered, and the same stopped. The principal arrivals and departures from this port, during our stay, consisted of Ameri- can whale ships, many of whom had been out from the United States upwards of two years, and the success attending their exertions was appropriate to the length of time they had been absent. The Sandwich Islands are a general rendezvous for these vessels, which are techni- cally termed blubber-hunters, their principal cruising ground being off the Japan Islands. There were several men joined our ship, who had been discharged from some of them at this place ; and, actuated by motives of curiosity, I have frequently sought converse with some of them, respecting the general manoeuvres per- formed i«i kiUing that enormous fish, the whale ; from which conversations I derived the infor- mation, that it was a most dangerous occupa- tion, and only fir, for a man who would like to be called Jonah the second. CHAPTER XVII. Let them throw out then- jeers, and cry, " spite of their crosses, And forgetful of toil, that so hardly they bore, That sailors, at sea, earn their money like horses, To squander it idly, like asses, ashore." Sea Song. Sail from Honolulu — A False Alarm — A Death— Cross the Equinoctial Line — Off the Marquesas — Arrive at Otaheite — Description of the same— Inhabitants— Cus- toms, Dress, Manners, &c. — A Liberty Scrape — Dreams not always realized. On the 4th of November we once more got under way, accompanied by the John Adams, and proceeded onwards to our next port, being bound to Otaheite, one of the Society Islands. Eor the first few days after our departure we were favored with fine breezes and clear, pleas- ant weather, which, however, was of but short duration, as, froiB the Sth of the month, we experienced nothing but squally weather, ac- companied by incessant rains, for upwards of a fortnight, without intermission. On the 9th inst. at 8, P. M. just as the watch had been relieved, and I had turned into my A FALSE ALARM. 205 hammock to pass away an hour or two in the arms of the drowsy god, Somnus, my attention was aroused by a noise and unusual commotion on the spar-deck, and the only sounds that were intelligible to me was some one singing out, or rather roaring out, " Hard at starboard." This I knew was intended for the man at the wheel to hear. Then another person exclaim- ed, "The life-buoy is gone, sir." The last expression was enough for me ; as I immedi- ately concluded some unhicky wight had fallen overboard, I jumped out of my hamm.ock, or dreaming-bag, nearly breaking my neck at the time, as the ship then fetched a heavy lurch, which threv/ me on the most prominent fea- ture of my face, or, more properly, my nasal organ ; and from the violence of the concussion between the handle of my face and the deck, I at first fancied I had entirely demolished my olfactory nerves. However, I picked myself up with as much content as the attendant cir- cumstances would permit, and rushed on deck, arrayed in no other garments than my frock, which is similar to a shirt, with the exception of having a blue front and collar. Here I found another consolation : it was raining in tor- rents and blowing fresh. However, deter- mined not to meet misfortunes half way, I 18 206 PUNISHMENT OF AN OLD SAILOR. proceeded onwards to ascertain the cause of the confusion, which, after all, I found to arise from our consort, the John Adams, coming rather too close to us to be pleasant, as she was then directly under our bows. By a shift of the helm, we cleared from her, at the same time expressing our wishes for her to keep off at a more polite and respectful distance. I re- turned to my hammock, half drowned with rain, happy to think my surmises were wrong respecting any person falling overboard, as I had at first imagined when I heard that the life-buoy was cut away. On the following morning I perceived the John Adams, looking as pert as ever, having, as it appeared, pre- served herself without the assistance of a life- buoy. On the following day I witnessed a transac- tion, which imparted the deepest regret to my feelings, on account of the poor fellow who was the sufferer on the occasion. A better hearted man never broke the bread of life ; beloved by his shipmates, and respected by the greater part of his officers ; one who has been in the service for many years, and was takeni prisoner in the Essex. His name is Antoniol Sallee, an elderly man, and, of course, not! very strong. For the trivial offence of talking] PUNISHMENT. 207 on the fore yard, to another man, 2ipon a point of duty, he was called down by Mr. Turk, the second lieutenant, and punished, as well as abused. While the boatswain's mate was in- flicting the lashes, the tears were absolutely trickling down the old man's weather-beaten and furrowed cheeks ; while, at the same time, he was abused by that very " gentlemanly " officer, who called him " a good for nothing son of a b — h." This outrageous conduct was observed to a poor old man, who had fought for the rights and liberties of the country, before this domineering officer was out of his mother's leading-strings. It is, in my opinion, a great pity he had not remained in leading-strings until the present day, as it would have been the cause of two good things, — it would have saved many a man's back a lash from the in- fernal colt, and himself from those curses which are at present bestovved upon him, and with which he will descend to the grave. It is generally considered an injustice to punish one man for another's fault ; but the rule is reversed in this ship. If one man, sta- tioned aloft, is guilty of a misdemeanor, it is not unfrequent that the whole body, amounting perhaps to forty or fifty, are called down and punished for one man's misdemeanor. 208 MIDSHIPMEN. I recollect an instance of this kind, on the passage from Madeira to Rio, and which 1 had omitted to notice. For some trifling offence, committed by a man stationed in the after- guard, on the quarter-deck, this self-same Mr. Turk, who happened to be the officer of the watch, turned to, with a free good will on his part, and whipped not only the whole of the after-guard, but also the mizzen-topmen. I myself counted eight hundred and ihirtij-seven lashes before breakfast. An opportunity like this afforded the greatest pleasure to Mr. Turk, and no doubt he descended to his breakfast in the ward-room with a good appetite, edged pretty keenly by the wonderful exploit he had performed, which ought to be cried up and down every town and city throughout the States, for the benefit of those young middies who expect to promote themselves in the navy. By the by, writing of young middies, I wish to inf )rm my readers that we have on board two infants, in the dress of midshipmen, whose insulting conduct at times is almost unbeara- ble. The morals of the ship, under the espe- cial patronage of the officers, maybe judged of when I state that these infants, for future pat- ronage, are fFom twelve to fourteen years f age, and they will very often v/alk up to tLe CROSSING THE LINE. 209 seamen, and utter, with as much smartness as their gentlemanly elders, " You be d — d," and " You d — d son of a b — h." I can, at times, but admire the forbearance of the men, that they do not often put them across their knee, and correct them. Our crew, during this passage, began to re- cover from the effects of the scurvy and dys- entery, which had held its influence so long in the ship, and by which we had lost so many men. On the 16th November, we, however, lost another of our crew, Henry Franks, sergeant of marines, who had been suffering a long time with the liver complaint, and whose remains were consigned to the deep, the accustomed form of prayer being read over them. This individual was sincerely regretted by many, as he had gained their good opinion by the affa- bility of his disposition and general uniformity of manners to all around him ; but with all these qualifications, he has gone down to the valley of the shadow of death. On the 27th inst. we crossed the equinoctial line to the southward, in longitude 140° 22' west, and on the 30th, at daylight, we dis- covered land, proving to be the Marquesas. At 10, A. M. the Island of Fattuuhu bore per 18* 210 ARRIVE AT OTAHEITE. compass, NE. by E. Mattauity E. half S., and the centre of the Island of Nukahiva E. half S. The Marquesas Islands are a group situated in the South Pacific ocean, of which the most considerable are St, Christina, St. Pedro and St. Dominica, the latter being considered the largest. It is sixteen leagues in circuit. The inhabitants, as far as regards their lan- guage, manners and clothing, with the vegeta- ble productions, are nearly the same as those of the Society Islands. These islands were first discovered by Quiros, the Spanish navigator, in the year 1595, but their situation was better ascertained by Capt. Cook, in 1794. At 4, P. M. on the 4th December, we made the Island of Toicka, bearing, per compass, at the northern end, NNW. half W, and on the following morning, at 10, A. M. made another island, named Elizabeth Island, bearing S. by E. as also a variety of small islands, as seen by Rubrick. We also discovered the Island of Otaheite, on the larboard bow and ahead. At 11, A. M. Point Venus bore, per compass, SW. half W. We came to an anchor in the harbor of Papeete, at 4, P. M. and on the following morning the John Adams arrived, and also came to anchor. We were visited by the American, British, and French consuls, who NUMBER OF INHABITANTS. 211 were each and severally saluted, as usual, on their arrival on board. The Island of Otaheite was discovered by Capt. Wallis, in the Dolphin, belonging to the British government, on the 19th June, 1767. It is situated in 17° 15' south latitude, and 149° 30' west longitude, and consists of two peninsulas, of a somewhat circular form, joined by an isthmus, and is surrounded by a reef of coral rocks, which form several excellent bays and harbors, where there is room and depth of water for almost any number of the largest ships. The face of the country is very extraordi- nary ; for a border of low land almost entirely surrounds each peninsula, and behind this bor- der the land rises in ridges, that run up into the middle of these divisions^ and these form mountains that may be seen at sixty leagues distance. The soil, except upon the very tops of the ridges, is remarkably rich and fertile, watered by a great number of rivulets, and covered with fruit trees of various kinds, forming the most delightful groves. Some parts of the Island of Otaheite are very populous. The total number of inhab- itants upon the island is estimated at 205,000. 212 MANNERS AND CUSTOMS. They are of a clear olive complexion ; the | men tall, strong, well built, and finely shaped ; | the women are of an inferior size, but hand- i some and very amorous, being regular devotees ; at the shrine of Cupid. The clothing of the i natives is similar to that of the Sandwich \ Islanders, and the greatest part of their food : consists of cocoa-nuts, bananas, bread-fruit, j plantains, and a great variety of other fruits. Their houses — that is, those of the middling i size — are of an oblong square, about twenty- four feet long and eleven wide, with a shelving j roof, supported on three rows of posts, parallel j to each other, one row on each side and one in i the middle. The utmost height within is about I nine feet, and the eaves on each side reach to | within about three feet and a half from the \ ground. All the rest is open, no part being | enclosed with a wall. The roof is thatched '[ with palm-Ieaves, and the floor covered some j inches deep with soft hay, over which they lay \ mats, upon which they sit in the day and sleep ' in the night. They have but few tools among them made of metal, as they mostly use those j made of stone, or some kind of bone. The ' inhabitants of Otaheite are remarkable for their cleanliness ; for both men and women constantly wash their bodies in running water TATTOOING RELIGION. 213 three times a day. Their language is soft and melodious, and abounds with vowels. The only wild animals are tropical birds, paroquets, pigeons, ducks, and a few other birds, rats, and a very few serpents. The sea, however, supplies the inhabitants with a very great va- riety of the most excellent iish. The natives have the habit of discoloring the skin, by pricking it v/ith a small instrument, the teeth of which are dipped into a mixture of lampblack, or something like it. This opera- tion is called tattooing, and is performed on the youth of both sexes, when they are . about twelve or fourteen years of age, on several parts of the body and in various figures. They are very dexterous in making wicker-work; their baskets are of a thousand different pat- terns, and many of them exceedingly neat. Their religion consists in believing in one supreme Deity, and the existence of the soul in a separate state, where there are two situations, of different degrees of happiness. In former times their weapons consisted of slings, (which even to the present day they can use with the greatest dexterity,) and clubs, about six or seven feet long, made of a heavy hard wood. Part of the ship's company, during our stay here, were indulged with the privilege of 214 ON LIBERTY. twenty-four hours' liberty, to have a run on shore, and went on shore, a certain number at a time. On the return of the first draft to the ship, after the expiration of that time, another complement went for the same period. But, in consequence of some slight disturbance taking place among some of them, who had been on a particular visit to their old friend and acquaintance, the god Bacchus, and had partaken rather too deeply of his strong liba- tions, a veto was put on all further liberty being allowed. On the night of the disturb- ance, at about nine, P. M, all the boats were called away, manned, and, under the superin- tendence of various officers, ptilled away for the shore, with an express and implicit order to bring off all our men on board, who were on liberty. Now commenced on shore a scene of the most ludicrous merriment. One man was discovered under the lee of a bush, with an old basket lugged over his ears by way of a night- cap, most musically snoring away all his trou- bles and cares in the arms of the drowsy god. He was awoke and sent on board. Another was laying on his beam ends ; while a third, who had walked out for the purpose of enjoy- ing his own company, was also despatched off. Search was made in every house for the Co- II^TERRUPTED BLISS. 215 Itimbia's lads, and a particular friend of mine was roused out of bed, and also sent on board. On asking him, on the following morning, the reason why he had not staid until the expira- tion of the time allowed him, he gave me the following account : " I had retired to rest in a house not far from the beach, blessed with the cheering and affectionate smiles of as pretty a lass as ever was formed in nature's mould ; and thought myself, at this moment, the happiest of the happy, and did not envy the mightiest poten- tate on the face of the earth, in any of bis high- born enjoyments. " I had been," he says, " fanned to sleep by the affectionate hands of this sylph of my affections, and fell into a dream, wherein I fancied myself walking in the Elysian fields, attended by this lovely partner of my previous earthly enjoyments. All at once I was aroused from this my visionary slumber by a violent shaking, and a grim visage, poking its ugly mug behind the curtains, exclaiming, 'Yo, ho, shipmate, heave an end and save tide ! bear a hand, and slip on your dunnage, to go on board; for 'tis a positive order.' On asking this unwelcome intruder what was the matter, (who, by the by, was one of my shipmates, and 216 INTERHtrPTED BLISS. who, at that moment, I heartily wished at the devil,) he informed me that there was the very devil to pay on shore, and no pitch hot, and that I must go on board. Knowing that I wag no accessory in any disturbance on the one part, and, on the other hand, unwilling to leave my present scene of happiness, which I knew would be but temporary, I remonstrated with my shipmate on this unreasonable request. He looked me full in the face in reply, and says, ' Well, you can do as you like. Let every tub stand on its own bottom, I say, and every man steer by his own compass ; but, depend upon it, if you don't go, as it is a positive order from head-quarters, you will have slops served out to you, which you will not know the price of.' " On consideration, I thought it most advisa- ble to follow the counsel of my uncouth moni- tor, and, after taking leave of my dearly be- loved Sposa, I was obliged to change my lodgings from a scene of earthly felicity to my old quarters and my canvass dreaming- bag." He finished this description of his night's adventure to me, at which I could but smile* and think of the mutability of all human events. ARRIVAL AT VALPARAISO. 217 The evening previous to our departure from Otaheite, the queen arrived from another part of the island, v/here she had been for some time, and given birth to a son, to the great joy of her loving Ken ackers. Our com- modore waited upon her majesty ; but, in con- sequence of our ship being on the point of sailing, we were not honored by a visit from her. On the 22d of December, we unmoored ship, and on the following day we bade fare- well to Papeete harbor, its lofty hills, and shady groves, with their spirit-bewitching en- chantments, and directed our course towards Valparaiso. Nothing of particular moment occurred during the passage, with the excep- tion of heavy rains. We had now winged our way round the world, crossing the same meridian as Norfolk, in Virginia, is situated upon. On the 26th inst. Adam Waters re- ceived twenty-four lashes with the cats, not having been previously tried, and found guilty by court-martial. We arrived at Valparaiso on the 23d of iJanuary, 1840. The importance of this har- bor has long been known. In stormy weather, |with a north wind, the sea rolls in with great |violence ; and then the anchorage is not only 19 218 SANTIAGO — CHILI. unpleasant, but exceedingly dangerous. Many vessels and some lives, have been lost at such times. In this town is centered nearly the whole foreign commerce of Chili. The inhabit- ants are exceedingly courteous and obliging to strangers. The town stands at the bottom of a steep hill, and its population is estimated at 20,000, including the suburbs on the high ground above. Santiago, the capital of Chili, is situated about ninety miles from the coast, and is bounded on one side by a hill, and on the other by a large plain. It is the centre of all the internal traffic of the country, and has 40,000 inhabitants. Its streets are wide and well paved, and the public buildings are large and handsome. It is well stored with every species of merchandise. Chili has luxuriant pastures^ the grass of which in many parts is so tall as to hide cattle, of which there are numerous herds. Grain, cotton, sugar, oil, wine, and fruits, are pro- duced in abundance. Among the fruits are apples and peaches, of extraordinary size, some of the latter weighing sixteen ounces. The cedars of the Andes mountain rival those of Lebanon, and the fruits and vegeta- bles are of the choicest description. The DYSENTERY. 219 myrtle attains the height of forty or fifty feet, and the olive equals the largest trees in our forests. The top of the Ancles mountains are cov- ered with perpetual snow, but on the coast it never falls. It seldom, and in some places it is said never, rains ; dews, however, are abundant. The southern part of Chili, is occupied by the Araucanian Indians. — a tribe, brave, war- like, and fond of liberty, whom the Spaniards, for three centuries, vainly tried to subdue. Chili, formerly a Spanish province, declared itself independent in 1818, and has recently formed a republican government. This country was first discovered by Diego Aimagro, a Spaniard, in 1525. He passed the Andes from Peru, and though he had lost a great part of his soldiers, who attended him in this expedition, he was received with great submission by the inhabitants of the country, who had formerly been under the dominion of the Peruvians. The dysentery, which had caused such cruel ravages and death, amongst our crew, by this time had ceased its havoc, as all the sick had now nearly recovered from its effects. One thing respecting this terrible disease par- 220 PUNISHMENT. ticularly attracted my attention, which was, those men who had been afflicted with it, and had recovered again, looked much heartier in personal appearance, than those who had never been sufferers fromit. On the 14th inst. the captain of the Ameri- can ship Emily Taylor, of Boston, lying in this harbor, sent to Commodore Read, request- ing his assistance. Some of his men had re- fused to do their duty, in consequence of a misunderstanding. The request was imme- diately acceded to, the commodore sending on board the vessel our sailing-master, master-at- arms, and a boatswain's mate. On their arrival on board, the disaffected men were asked if they would return to their duty. They replied in the negative ; upon which they were severely whipped on their bare backs, two with eighteen, and one with twenty-four lashes ; not v/ith the cats, the usual instrument of torture, but with the colt, a piece of hard twisted rope, commonly called nine thread, which absolutely cut the flesh to the bone. I saw the backs of those poor men after- wards, as they joined the frigate for the pur- pose of getting to the United States. I abso- lutely turned away with pity and disgust, as I MIDNIGHT BURIAL. 221 pitied the poor suffering men, and was dis- gusted with the commodore, whom I was for a time compelled to serve and obey. During our stay, we lost one of our crew only, by consumption. He was interred on shore at the still hour of midnight, when all nature was hushed in silence, according to the customs of the country. A funeral scene, at this gloomy hour, cannot fail to impress the mind with more than religious awe, when you consider that you are standing on that place, sanctified by the ashes of the dead, as well as by the prayers of the living ; the place that had so often listened in its solemn stillness to the vow that bound heart to heart ; the place where the first born has been dedicated to the Deity, and which is even now echoing the sobs of the funeral train ;— a place hallowed by the most joyous, and the saddest of all human emotions, as well as by all holy rites, and seeming itself to breathe a sacramental power. I say these things find an answer in the inmost depths of the heart. On the 17th of February, we took our de- parture from this port, for Callao, in Peru, at which place we arrived on the 28th inst. at the hour of midnight, after a pleasant passage of eleven days from Valparaiso. This harbor 19* 222 ACCOUNT OF CALLAO. was pretty full of shipping, principally mer- chantmen and coasters. The only men of war, besides our own ship, being H. B. M. frigate President, and the United States schoon- er Shark. The United States frigate Consti- tution had sailed a few days previously, upon a cruise, which I am led to believe was a source of much disappointment to many of our crew, as they wished to have benefited tJieir constitu- tion by being shifted to the Constitution, as she was stationed on this particularly healthy coast. Early on the following morning, we were saluted by the frigate President, which was an- swered by us. At meridian, we hoisted the Peruvian colors at the fore, and saluted the town with twenty-one guns. The town and harbor of Callao is well fortified, and is the principal port on this coast. In the year, 1747, this place was entirely demolished by the dreadful visitation of an earthquake, which at the same time laid three fourths of the city of Lima in ruins. Never was any destruction more terrible or complete, not more than one of three thousand inhabitants being left to re- cord the dreadful calamity, and he by a provi- dence the most singular and extraordinary im- aginable. This man, who happened to be on ACCOUNT OF LIMA. 223 the fort which overlooked the harbor, perceived the inhabitants running from their houses, in the utmost terror and confusion. The sea, as usual on such occasions, receding to a consid- erable distance, returned in mountainous waves, and buried the inhabitants forever in its bosom. Immediately all was silent ; but the same waves which destroyed the town, drove a little boat to the place where the man stood, into which he threw himself, and was saved. The manners of the people in this country do not remarkably differ from those of the whole Spanish dominions. Pride and laziness are the two predominant passions. The Creoles, and all the other descendants of the Spaniards, are guilty of many mean and pilfering vices, which a true-born Castilian could not think of but with detestation. The city of Lima, the capital of Peru, is situated in the middle of a spacious and de- lightful valley, distance about nine miles from Callao. This spot was fixed upon by the famous Pizarro, as the most proper for a city, which he expected would preserve his memory. It is so well supplied with water, that each of the inhabitants, like those of London, can command a stream for his own use. There are many magnificent structures in this city, 224 ACCOUNT OF PERU. particularly churches, though the houses in general are bualt of slight materials, the equality of climate and want of rain rendering stone houses unnecessary. The city extends in length upwards of two miles, and in breadth one and a half. It con- tains about 54,000 inhabitants, of whom the whites amount to a sixth part. One remarka- ble fact is sufficient to demonstrate the ancient wealth of this city. When the viceroy, the Duke de la Paluda, made his entry into Lima, in the year 1682, the inhabitants, to do him honor, caused the streets to be paved with ingots of silver, to the amount of seventeen millions sterling, while the churches and other public buildings were decorated inside with gold, silver, and precious stones, the walls being completely loaded with those ornaments. There are many gold mines in the northern parts of Peru, not far from Lima. Silver, too, is found in great abundance in various prov- inces : the old mines are frequently exhausted, but new ones are daily opened. The towns are shifted with the mines. This country produces fruits peculiar to the climate, and most of those of Europe. A principal article in the produce and commerce of this country, is the Peruvian bark, — an arti- ANIBIALS OF PERU. 225 cle well known, especially for its medicinal uses. The tree which produces this invaluable drug grows principally in the mountainous parts of Peru. The best bark is always produced in the high and rocky grounds. The tree which bears it is about the size of a cherry tree, and produces a kind of fruit resembling the almond ; but it is only the bark which has those excellent qualities, that render it so use- ful in intermittent fevers, and other disorders, to which daily experience extends the applica- tion of it. The principal animals peculiar to Peru are the lama, the vicunna, and the guanaco. The lama has a small head, resembling both that of the horse and the sheep. It is about the size of a stag ; its upper lip is cleft like the hare, through which, when enraged, it spits a kind of venomous juice, which inflames the part it falls upon. The flesh of the lama is a pleasant and wholesome food; and the animal is not only useful in affording a fine kind of wool and food, but also as a beast of burden. It can endure amazing fatigue, and will travel over the steepest mountains with a load of sixty or seventy pounds. It feeds very spar- ingly, and never drinks. The vicunna is smaller and swifter than the lama, and produces wool 226 ARRIVE AT RIO JANEIRO. Still finer in quality. The guanaco is much larger than the lama, its wool is long and harsh, but in shape they are nearly alike. On the 9th of March we weighed, and left Callao, bound to Kio Janeiro. This morning, John Rhineman received eighteen lashes, con- trary to the rules of the service, he not having been tried by a court-martial. On the 19th of April, we rounded Cape Horn, in latitude 56^ 5& north, and longitude 68° 25' west. The weather at this time being extremely cold and disagreeable, accompanied with heavy squalls of hail, wind, and frequently much snow. Thermometer being in air 39° and water 41°, which was the lowest tempera- ture experienced during the cruise. On the 22d inst. we spoke a Brazilian brig from Monte de Video, bound to Pernambuco ; and on the 24th inst. we once more came to an anchor in the harbor of Rio Janeiro. We' found here, as usual, various men of war, in- cluding the United States ship Lexington, who saluted us according to custom. On the 26th, we were joined by the United States ships John Adams and Falmouth, the latter ship saluting our commodore's flag. On the 2d of May, we had to pay the same compliment to the flag of Commodore George C. Ridgely, which was ARRIVE AT CHARLESTOWN. 227 hoisted on board the United States ship Deca- tur, that ship arriving from the United States on that day. On the 6th of May we got under way from Rio, and proceeded to sea, bound home ; each heart beating high with the expectation of once more beholding liis family and friends. On the 23d inst. we crossed the equinoctial line, in longitude 36° 29' west, and on the 13th of June we came to an anchor off Boston lighthouse. On the 16th, made fast alongside the wharf, in the navy yard at Charlestown, Mass. after an absence of two years, one month, and ten days, during which time we circumnavigated the globe. And now, my readers, being once more at home, I have to conclude this sketch, trusting this, my humble attempt for your amusement or information, may succeed in giving you sat- isfaction. Wishing you all prosperity and hap- piness, may you ever steer through the wide and expansive ocean of life with favorable gales, and at the last cast your anchor in the port of heaven, where your commander will be the supreme Creator of all, and the shrill pipe of the boatswain's mates, which have so often called us to our earthly duties, be changed to the trumpets resounding the praises of the 228 ADIEU TO SHIPMATES. Most High, — of that divine God, who has afforded us his sacred protection through hfe's checkered paths. And though we have to strike our colors to death when called upon, I trust it will be only to ensure us a safe anchor- age, and good holding ground. Adieu, my shipmates ; God bless you all ! THE LAST DAYS OF MUCKIE. WRITTEN ON BOARD THE COLUMBIA, BY CORPORAL S. PENROSE. The bright rays of the sun had illumined the morning, As lightly they glanced o'er the waves of the seas ; The dew-drops of heaven so gently were falling, They vanished away in the sweet-scented breeze. When Columbia's dark form o'er the ocean appeared, Her yards neatly squared, and her canvass snug furled, "While streaming aloft that proud flag was upraised — The star-spangled banner — defying the world. What means that proud vessel, with aspect so bold ; Why lies she so silent in Muckie's dark bayj While near her another her flag doth unfold, With her dark row of guns, all in fearful display The tale is soon told: the proud bird of Columbia In majesty sits on her throne upon high ; While nothing beneath, in the seas or around her, Escapes the quick glance of her keen-searching eye. As over Sumatra's light green shady woods Her bright-rolling eye she in watchfulness turns, She sees the dark Malay, his hands steeped in blood, The red streaming blood of her favorite sons. 20 230 LAST DAYS OF MUCKIE. Inflamed were her eyes — red with anger they roll ; Revenge, quick revenge, was her deep-uttered cry : The true sons of freedom obey her loud call, And vow by their freedom the Malay must die. But hark ! that bold vessel's loud thunder is breaking ; The black clouds of smoke in dense columns arise : Dost thou hear, fated Muckie ? — thy death-knell 'tis speak- ing! Receive thy dread sentence — it comes from the skies. O, never again, in thy sweet-scented woods, Shall thy flocks and thy herds for a shelter retreat ; But thy mouldering ruins, thy desolate groves, Shall proclaim to the world that revenge is still sweet. Then beware thee, dark Malay, should the eagle e'er see thee Raise thy bloody hands 'gainst her favorite sons ; Remember lost Muckie, her fate sad and dreary; For sooner or later thy judgment shall come. ABSTRACT GP THE CRUISE OF THE UNITED STATES FRIGATE COLUMBIA. i ^ . 3 1 a "i ^• ^ 1 P. .£3 1 s 03 < l^ 3 «« ^ *j 's rt c o S o 1 i 3 a 1 1 Q ^ a s Q < p 1838. May 6 Hampton Roads 21 3233 May 27 Madeira 6 June 2 Madeira 38 4310 July 10 Rio 20 July 30 Rio 79 10388 Oct. 17 Muscat 9 Oct. 26 Muscat 6 804 Nov. 1 Bombay 10 Nov. 11 Bombay 4 297 Nov. 15 Goa 1 Nov. 16 Goa 10 673 Nov. 26 Columbo 6 Dec. 2 Columbo 20 1424 Dec. 22 auallah Battoo 5 Dec. 27 auallah Battoo 3 26 Dec. 30 Muckie 4 1839. Jan. 3 Muckie 1 20 Jan. 3 • Soosoo 11 Jan. 14 Soosoo 11 1056 Jan. 25 Penang 1 Jan. 26 Penang 8 536 Feb. 3 Singapore 53 March 28 Singapore 30 2121 April 27 Macao 49 June 15 Macao i 30 June 15 Toonkoo Bay 52 Aug. 6 Toonkoo Bay 65 7250 Oct. 10 Oahu 25 Nov. 4 Oahu 32 3942 Dec. 6 Tahiti 16 Dec. 22 Tahiti 32 5362 1840. 1840. Jan. 23 Valparaiso 25 Feb. 17 Valparaiso 11 1274 Feb. 28 Callao 8 March 8 Callao 47 6196 April 24 Rio 12 May 6 Rio 41 5854 June 16 Boston •Aggregate. Number of Ports 18 Days at Sea 459 Days in Port 313 Total Distance run 54796 knots. U. S, VESSELS. No. Ship's Name. 1 Virginia 2 United States 3 Constitution 4 Guerriere 5 Java 6 Columbus 7 Congress 8 Macedonia 9 Constellation 10 Ohio 11 Franklin 12 Independence 13 John Ad,ams 14 Levant 15 Peacock 16 Delaware 17 North Carolina 18 Erie 19 Ontario 20 Cyane 21 Enterprise 22 Brandywine 23 Boston 24 Colambia 25 Hudson 26 Porpoise 27 Dolphin 28 Potomac No. Ship's Name. 29 Shark 30 Grampus 31 Lexington 32 Washington 33 Vincennes 34 Warren 35 Natchez 36 Pennsylvania 37 New York 38 Vermont • 39 Alabama 40 Santee 41 Cumberland 42 Sabine 43 Savannah 44 Raritan 45 St. Lawrence 46 St. Louis 47 Vandalia .48 Fairfield 49 Falmouth 50 Concord 51 Experiment 52 Boxer 53 Pioneer 54 Consort 55 Relief 56 Pilot . SEP 2 9 1950 ^ >^^ .r^' "^ ': f^ °^ - -.^^^ ^^0^ ^^ G^ ., .^^ '^0^ ^^^9^ 1,'- -e* A'