• lohe PAN AME:RICAN UNION JOHN BARRETT : : Director General FRANCISCO J. YANES : Assistant Director THROUGH COSTA RICA THE MAGNIFICENT ON A MOTOR CAR <^ Reprinted from the November, 1917, issue of the BuUetm of the Pan American Union WASHINGTON GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1918 / I <^ I I .WH D. of D. 1 /^- Kol^S MAGNIFICENT, ON A M i. %^ &.'\ A WONDERFUL journey it was. Through jungles, across the slopes of foothills, into forests whose tropical luxuriance suggested the foreworld, over rivers and along palm- bordered beaches almost to the Panama line; into the main foothills, too; across great swamps marked by fern-like growths recalling plants of a prehistoric coal age, with giant fronds 60 to 80 feet long, palms, creepers, orchids, flowering vines, lilies, in gorgeous riotous brilliant colors, and birds as vividly hued as the flowers, huge trees rising on roots that, springing from the water, twisted like the folds of Brobdignagian pythons; into busy villages, and historic cities whose courteous people boast the proudest blood of ancient Spain; past neatly ordered estates; by groves of cacao and rubber; through banana plantations embracing tens of thousands of acres. Aiid up the roaring Reventazon River we went, following the picturesque railway line on one of the strangest rides in the world from modern Port Limon on the Carribbean coast to San Jose, the beautiful capital of Costa Rica on the high inter^r plateau. A prodigious stream is the Reventazon in high water'. It has been known to roll an 80-ton locomotive as lightly as a. pebble for 10 miles down its course. One follows it from the low plaii|s adjoining the eastern coast up one of the most appaUing gorges in thQ.world, the right of way gradually climbing until the river appears as a silver ribbon far beneath. Approaching Cartago near the summit of the divide the railroad line finally leaves the valley and soon thereafter slips into San Jose. All told, including main lines, spur lines, and tramways, there must be something like six hundred miles of railroad in Costa Rica. Over all of these we went upon-o.ur bounding motor, except on the Government line between San Jose and Puntarenas, the Pacific coast port, over which I took the regular passenger train for the 75-mile run. Also, since not all of Costa Rica may be seen from the railroad, I journeyed by gasoline launch, mule back, and diligencia. It was not yet light when we first set out from the railroad yards at Port Limon. But the switchmen and track tenders were already 1 By Hamilton M. Wright. , ^ ■..t 2S ; -.2 52; u bo 2S 12 THEOUGH COSTA RICA ON A MOTOR CAR. the residents and also of the visitors, at the hotels. Wild pigeons were served in the hotels of San Jose when the writer was there. There are two well-kno\Mi varieties of wild turkeys and at least seven game birds of allied genera. Quite as great a delicacy for the table is the magnificent curassow, of which the crested variety is the best knowii. This fine bird, with broad brown-flecked breast, stands quite as high as its cousin the turkey. It travels usually in groups of from 4 to 12 birds. I have several times seen them in clearings in the forests. Deer abound, wild hogs, and also the smaller peccaries, are very numerous. When feed becomes scarce the hogs migrate, in huge droves, from one portion of the country to another. It hap- pened that I stopped near the scene of one of these migrations, near the flanks of Mount Turrialba. More than 800 hogs were said to comprise the herd, and fresh pork became quite plentiful. This was by no means an unusually large herd, for I am credibly informed that as many as 2,000 sturdy, nervous porkers have been seen in a single herd. It was dusk that night when we again came into the railroad yards at Port Limon. This attractive city, center of the yards and shops of the Northern Railway of Costa Rica, was well lighted and had thrown aside the cares of the day. The municipal band was render- ing a concert in the public park. Well-dressed throngs listened to the music or promenaded in the evening breeze upon one of the two great steel and concrete piers that, provided with railway trackage, cranes, and derricks, give Costa Rica, on the Atlantic coast, imsurpassed facilities for the transport of passengers and freight. Indeed it is customary for chartered steamers with excursionists to be met on the pier by special trains. A seven hours' ride takes them to San Jose. He who rises early must repair to bed betimes. Next morning at dawn we were well upon our way to the dashing River Reventazon. Sleepy homes we passed surrounded by cacao orchards, or groves of oranges, tangerines, or grapefruit, homes from whose chimneys wisps of gray smoke rose into the chill morning air, teUing of a day's work already begun. For the first 35 miles out of Port Limon the railway gradually creeps to the foothills. Low rolling country, haciendas, pastures marked by huge moss-bearded trees, occasional lagoons mir- roring their surroundings, and villages of Jamaica natives are features of the landscape. Then comes the abrupt transition into another world; the precipitous journey to the highlands. The splendor points of the great American Rockies, Pike's Peak. Long's Peak, Mount Harvard, Mount Yale, and Mount Princeton, rise thirteen and fourteen thousand feet above the sea. Those who are inspired by the spectacular phenomena of nature travel thousands of miles to behold these majestic cloud-swept crags and their vast crevasses of ice and snow. But these appealing peaks start from an Photographs by Hamilton M. Wright. MODERNIZING INFLUENCES IN COSTA RICA. Upper: The motor car is growing in popularity and is an incentive for constructing improved highways. The car shown in the picture belongs to the post office department and greatly quickens mail service. Lower: Interior view of one of the new creameries where butter and cheese are manufactured in increasing quantities. THROUGH COSTA RICA ON A MOTOR CAR. 15 environing territory that is as much as 6,000 feet above sea level. The heights of the mountains in relation to the country about them is to that extent diminished. Contrast with Colorado's peaks the Andean chain extending through Costa Rica. Chirripo Grande, the tallest of these, is 13,424 feet high; Mount Poas and Mount Irazu, the volcanoes, and a score of other peaks are somewhat less. But it is sdarce 160 miles from sea to sea in Costa Rica. Her peaks rise almost from the sea itself, the rapid ascent being most pronounced upon the Pacific side. The glories of the Alps or the Andes, of the Canadian or the Ameri- can Rockies do not transcend, in my opinion, those of the Central American Switzerland. From the lava swept crater of grim Moimt Irazu may one behold two oceans. On a bright day, when the clouds are low, he may look upon that most remarkable of visions, snow white fields of mist, as far as the eye can reach, under the radiant, brilUant light of the tropical highlands, a light undiminished in intensity by the mists of sea level. And at nightfall he may regard the sun, magnified many times, as a ball of molten fire, it sinks into purple, red, and white seas of cloud. On the way to the lower canyon of the Reventazon one sees many of those curious and intelligent birds, the great golden tailed oriole, called by the Spanish "Ora Pendula." The Ora Pendula, which is about the size of a small crow, iridescent blue-black, and with bright yellow tail, weaves a gourd-shaped hanging nest, from 3 to even 4 feet in length, of the fibers of banana, the long skeins of Spanish moss, or, if these be not handy, of what material it can find. The orifice is small, reaching not more than 3 inches in diameter, but the lower part of the nest is a foot or more wide. I have counted 147 of these nests upon the lofty branches of a silk cotton tree. Strands that, altogether, Avill measure not more than the thickness of one's little finger are employed to attach the new home to the limb, and their weaving is the first construction undertaken by the clever little artificer, since the entire nest is built from the top downward. The nest does not last more than one season, for the exposure disinte- grates the fibers. The golden tails are most companionable birds, and are indifferent to the presence of human beings. Once , while dining, we heard a great commotion in a nest in a nearby tree. It was violently agitated and raucous cries came from within. The parent birds hovered about calling in great distress. Thinking a serpent had gained access a shot was fired through the upper portion. When, to our surprise, there emerged the bloody murderer, a toucan bird. Canaries, linnets, and humming birds are everywhere, and their absence of fear renders a journey most interesting. Vultures, of course, abound. Once, rounding a curve at 35 miles per hour, we came upon one starting to fly from the middle of the track. When ' 1 { ■ taftpm m^.- ■ -^ •• •:]■?!£,.■■' ' Photograph by Hamilton M. Wright. COFFEE PICKING. Upper: A Costa Ritan boy hard at work on a plantation. Lower: A typical settlement of workers. Notice that the company employing them has constructed the house several feet above the groimd in order to make life more healthful. 18 THROUGH COSTA RICA ON A MOTOR CAR. we reached him he had risen no higher than my shoulders, and almost overturned the car. For 60 miles the Reventazon River dashes down a bowlder-strewn course, a cascade of white. One enters by the lower valley of the Reventazon which, within 2 miles becomes precipitous, the walls of the hills soon rising 1,500 to 2,000 feet. The railroad ascends the gorge until it is almost 1 mile above the river, hanging to the edges of precipitous chffs. In that brief 60 miles one ascends from the Tropics to the Temperate Zone. Like Jack in the Bean iStalk, he clambers into a new world set above the clouds. Cartago, ancient seat of learning, is the first cit}' on the hne after leaving the canyon of the Reventazon. It has an altitude of 5,000 feet above sea level, and is shghtly on the Atlantic side of the Conti- nental Divide. The city has been almost entirely rebuilt since it was destroyed by a trembler proceeding from Mount Irazu a few years ago, and the ruins of that earthquake have been crushed to make fine, broad city streets. Cartago has a population of about 12,000 persons. Near the city is a famous hot spring, much patron- ized by tourists. Those who visit the summit of Irazu often start from Cartago. The journey may be easily made by mule back ir half a day. The incline is gradual. Indeed from Cartago Irazu behes its lofty elevation, 11,200 feet, and seems hke some gigantc low-lying mound, lacking, as it does, the sharp cone or apex that usually distinguishes Central American volcanoes. About 12 miles farther on, and over the divide, is San Jose, splen- did capital of Costa Rica, altitude, 3,800 feet and a modern Athens. The city hes as on the floors of a great natural amphitheater with towering hiUs upon three points of the compass. Its broad streets are paved with granite blocks or else newly concreted. Its shops are smart and up-to-date with notable displays of New Yjrk and Parisian fashions. The famed Teatro Nacional, costing $1,000,000 gold, more than bears out its reputation as one of the finesi theaters upon the American Hemisphere. I was particularly attracted by the sculptures in the vestibule, some of the best of wbich are by Costa Rican artists. That of a mother and child was executed by a promising young sculptor of Cartago. The exterior of the building is of white marble. The interior lobbies and foyer are of colored Italian marble. Old tapestries, mural paintings, gold plate, and sculptures are used in the ornamentation. The magnificent foyer is in Louis XVI architecture though the building as a whole par- takes more of Italian than French renaissance. The double stair- ways leading from the vestibule are after those of :he Paris opera house. The seats are of rosewood and mahogany with the national crest stamped in embossed leather. Downstairs adjoining the lobby are two large grill rooms, while, on the second floor, from the mag- Upper and lower photographs by Hamilton M. "Wright. GLIMPSES OF COSTA RICA'S BANANA INDUSTRY. Upper: Method of cutting the banana from the tree. Center: Close view of the tree and its fruit on a young plantation. Lower: Loading the fruit on a railway train by which it is shipped to the port. All bunches for foreign markets are cut while green and ripen to a yellow color some davs after leaving the plantation. ■ •■•*♦* ' - i ^•^ ■ ■:^:. -, V ? 1" Jpin* I'Ji- 1*^^1^BK ^*» ■ ■■■•. '9f ■'■■■ -,»»V-^.".'- -• ■ ,. %P^ ^^^ m^c^^im^'^'y'-' ■ Mfc'j^^-i .-4 ,•' ..^■. ■ -' ■ '^'. V *5«K-;^)vf;V'^''' ^'■''■^' u.jjl^lPMS^^^^^^^B Ip^i^n^^''"'^^-^'' ^^K* ^ QI^^^^^H^ Photograph by Hamilton M. WriEht. OTHER AGRICULTURAL INDUSTRIES. Upper: Part of a tobacco plantation. Lower: Thriving cotton plants on the low coast lands near the border of Panama, an infant industry that promises important results. THEOUOH COSTA RICA ON A MOTOR CAR. 21 nificently frescoed salon one passes to the president's room, the ladies dressing room and other compartments, or directly to the theater itself, in the center. The building offers a wonderful example of restraint and good taste, and is truly magnificent withal. Round about San Jose are many attractive country homes and estates. Some of the estate dwellings are built of adobe in Spanish mission style and some of the more conventional brick. But all are spacious and have the appearance of hospitality and well being. The grounds are attractive and are ornamented with cypress, palms, flowers, and flowering vines that find so congenial a home in Costa Rica. In these countryside residences one is inevitably reminded of the old plantation homes and estates in the South of the United States before the Civil War. Those homes were famous among North Americans for their cordiality and good cheer, a reputation that, after more than 50 years, still flourishes. In Costa Rica social life has the charm of long personal acquaintance. House parties and visits among friends are most frequent, and dancing and music favorite diversions. In the homes of those who entertain one will find not only the American magazines but those of France and Spain. The roads are well kept and hedged and not infrequently one will see merry parties setting forth on horseback, always an attractive sight, for the young women of San Jose are notable for their beauty. Also, they are accomplished, having a pronounced talent in music and a skill in literature and linguistic abilities that will surpass that of their northern sisters who usually speak but one language. The people of Costa Rica boast as their ancestry the finest blood of Spain. This lineage is reflected in their very great courtesy. One day while driving in San Jose the driver was accosted by a poHceman, whereupon he turned back and drove around the block. A lady in that block was quite ill, the; officer said, and he feared the noise of the diligencia on the cobbles might cause her distress. In other ways the attitude of the people is reflected. The longest sentence that may be imposed for any crime in Costa Rica is 20 years. The per- centage of crime is less than in most countries. The national peni- tentiary is an admirable institution with workshops where prisoners are taught furniture making, etc. Vegetables are cultivated by the prisoners in the grounds inside the walls. The national hbrary and the musemns are both of interest, the latter presenting very complete exhibitions of the fauna of the country and also relics of the Indian tribes, both present and prehistoric. Much has been written of the educational institutions of Costa Rica, and I could not add to what has been said, except, perhaps, that the work of the high-school students in painting and sculpture is often so well done that it would hardly be considered the work of amateurs and, least of all, of children. THROUGH COSTA EICA ON" A MOTOR CAR. 23 Pimtarenas, on the Pacific, is the great watering place for San Jose. The train, over the Government railway, leaves San Jose about 8 in the morning, arriving at Puntarenas at 2 in the afternoon. It was with regret that I left the beautiful old capital with its life and gaiety and my new-found friends, who were so eager to make my stay a pleasant one. The train was crowded to the aisles and I was the only American aboard, but it was not long before I found myself chatting with some acquaintances of the country. At each station out of San Jose it was met by throngs of pretty misses in stylish mode, young men smartly clad in riding costutnes, with black shining puttees, and numerous dog carts, and diligencias. Often one saw the picturesque old Spanish costume, the short blouse jacket, the loose braided trousers, high-heel boots, and broad-brimmed hat. At noon all hands filed out of the train for lunch. Fried and fricasseed chicken, veal, lamb, beef, stuffed eggs, vegetables, fruits, iced drinks, beer, and coffee were sold by the pretty young women at the tables. AYe had been rolling downhill four hours, and still had two hours of descent before we should reach the long plateau that projects into Nicoya Gulf. Already the cypress and eucalyptus trees had disappeared, and great bunches of cacti mingled with palms and geraniums in the gardens. At Puntarenas the hotels and clubhouses were filled. Throngs of bathers crowded the beach. Children from an orphanage from San Jose were down upon their holiday. But there were several days to wait before my steamer should come to bear me north, so I took some fascinating trips up the Gulf of Nicoya. Some day, it is said, the national railways of Nicaragua may follow the old cart road down to Costa Rica, but the route is a diflScult one, and connection between Siquirres and the foot of Lake Nicaragua could probably be easier made. Puntarenas is not as developed as is Port Limon, where the Northern Railway and United Fruit Co. have developed hotels, hos- pitals, machine shops, storehouses, piers, etc., but with the growth of commerce upon the Pacific this development is sure to come. One morning early a steamer whistle electrified those who waited. I hurried to the pier, got aboard a launch, and in a few hours saw fade from sight the purple shores centuries ago visited by Sir Francis Drake, but to me more vivid than any history could make them, for they marked the borders of Costa Rica, queen of the mountain lands. 24 THEOUGH COSTA RICA ON A MOTOR CAR. LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 015 811 697 2 THE PAN AMERICAN UNION is the inter- national organization and office maintained in Washington, D. C, by the twenty-one American republics, as follows: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Domini- can Republic, Ecuador, Guatemala, Haiti, Hon- duras, Mexico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Salvador, United States, Uruguay, and Venezuela. It is devoted to the development and advancement of commerce, friendly intercourse, and good under- standing among these countries. It is supported by quotas contributed by each country, based upon the population. Its affairs are administered by a Director General and Assistant Director, elected by and responsible to a Governing Board, which is composed of the Secretary of State of the United States and the diplomatic representatives in Wash- ington of the other American governments. These two executive officers are assisted by a staff of international experts, statisticians, commercial specialists, editors, translators, compilers, libra- rians, clerks and stenographers. The Union pub- lishes a Monthly Bulletin in English, Spanish, Portuguese and French, which is a careful record of Pan American progress. It also publishes numerous special reports and pamphlets on various subjects of practical information. Its library, the Columbus Memorial Library, contains 36,000 vol- umes, 20,000 photographs, 150,000 index cards, and a large collection of maps. The Union is housed in a beautiful building erected through the munifi- cence of Andrew Carnegie. o LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 015 811 697 2